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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79056 ***
+
+  [Illustration: ARRIVAL OF THE “HANSA’S” BOATS AT THE
+  FRIEDRICHSTHAL MISSION STATION.]
+
+
+
+
+                                  THE
+
+                       GERMAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION
+
+                              OF 1869–70,
+
+                                  AND
+
+                 NARRATIVE OF THE WRECK OF THE “HANSA”
+                              IN THE ICE.
+
+                         BY CAPTAIN KOLDEWEY,
+
+        COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION, ASSISTED BY MEMBERS OF THE
+                           SCIENTIFIC STAFF.
+
+                                 WITH
+
+    _NUMEROUS WOODCUTS, TWO COLOURED MAPS, TWO PORTRAITS ON STEEL,
+             AND FOUR CHROMO LITHOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS_.
+
+      TRANSLATED AND ABRIDGED BY THE REV. L. MERCIER, M.A., OXON;
+        AND EDITED BY H. W. BATES, F.L.S., ASSISTANT SECRETARY,
+                      ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.
+
+                                London:
+                  SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON LOW; & SEARLE,
+                  CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
+                                 1874.
+
+                       [_All rights reserved._]
+
+
+
+
+                                LONDON:
+                   GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,
+                          ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                   PAGE
+
+    Introduction.--Preliminary Observations.--Object and Plan of
+    the Expedition.--Victualling of the Ships.--Compact between
+    the Captains.--Instructions for the Second German Arctic
+    Expedition of 1869, 1870. By Dr. A. Petermann                     1
+
+
+                                PART I.
+
+              JOINT PASSAGE OF THE TWO SHIPS, AND VOYAGE
+                             OF THE HANSA.
+
+    CHAPTER I.--Joint Voyage of the Germania and the Hansa, from
+    the 15th June to 4th July. By Captain Koldewey and Dr.
+    Pansch                                                           24
+
+    CHAPTER II.--Further passage of the two Ships to the
+    Ice.--Middle of July. By Captain Koldewey and Dr. Pansch         45
+
+    CHAPTER III.--To the Separation of the Ships on the 20th July.
+    By Captain Koldewey and Dr. Pansch                               64
+
+    CHAPTER IV.--Further Voyage of the Hansa up to her Blockade
+    in the Coast-ice of East Greenland. 20th July to 7th September.
+    By Captain Hegemann                                              80
+
+    CHAPTER V.--From the blocking up of the Hansa to the Settlement
+    upon the Floe. 7th September to end of October. By Captain
+    Hegemann, Professor Laube, and others                            94
+
+    CHAPTER VI.--Drifting to the South.--Christmas time.--A severe
+    January. November, 1869, to end of January, 1870. By
+    Captain Hegemann                                                116
+
+    CHAPTER VII.--Post nubila Phœbus. Abandonment of the Floe,
+    and Boat-Journey to the Island of Illuidlek. February to
+    4th June, 1870. By Captain Hegemann                             137
+
+    CHAPTER VIII.--Journey along the Coast of Greenland, from
+    Illuidlek to Friedrichsthal. June, 1870. By Captain Hegemann,
+    with the assistance of Professor Laube and W. Bade              163
+
+    CHAPTER IX.--Further Stay in Friedrichsthal.--Journey _viâ_
+    Igikait to Nennortalik. By Professor Laube                      187
+
+    CHAPTER X.--Lichtenau.--Excursion to the Island of
+    Unartok.--Journey to Julianeshaab. By Professor Laube           205
+
+    CHAPTER XI.--In Julianeshaab.--Excursion to Igalliko. By
+    Professor Laube                                                 220
+
+    CHAPTER XII.--Kaksimiut.--Frederickshaab.--Return to
+    Europe. By Professor Laube                                      244
+
+
+                               PART II.
+
+                        VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA.
+
+    CHAPTER I.--Continuation of the Voyage of the Germania after
+    Separation from the Hansa.--Landing of the Germania in
+    East Greenland. From 21st July to 5th August, 1869. By
+    Captain Koldewey and Dr. Pansch                                 265
+
+    CHAPTER II.--Pendulum Island.--State of the Ice
+    Northwards.--Landing on Shannon Island. By the same             278
+
+    CHAPTER III.--Shannon Island: with the Tell-Platte and
+    Klein-Pendulum. By Dr. Copeland, First-Lieutenant Payer, and
+    Dr. Börgen                                                      288
+
+    CHAPTER IV.--Further Coasting Voyage of the Germania. 17th
+    August to 13th September, 1869. By Captain Koldewey             297
+
+    CHAPTER V.--Sledge-Journey to the Fligely Fjord.--Discovery
+    of Coal strata on Kuhn Island. 14th to 21st September,
+    1869. By Captain Koldewey and Lieutenant Payer                  312
+
+    CHAPTER VI.--Preparations for Wintering. 13th September to
+    7th November, 1869. By Dr. Pansch                               324
+
+    CHAPTER VII.--Sledge-Journey to Clavering Island, and Discovery
+    of the Tirol Fjord. 27th October to 4th November,
+    1869. By First-Lieutenant Payer, with additions by Captain
+    Koldewey                                                        353
+
+    CHAPTER VIII.--Winter Night from November, 1869, to New
+    Year’s Day, 1870. By Dr. Pansch                                 371
+
+    CHAPTER IX.--First Month of the year 1870. By Dr. Pansch        391
+
+    CHAPTER X.--Long Sledge-Journey on the Coast
+    Northwards.--Discovery of King William’s Island. 8th March
+    to 27th April, 1870. By Lieutenant Payer and Captain Koldewey   412
+
+    CHAPTER XI.--Sledge-Journey to Ardencaple Inlet, from 8th
+    May to 29th May. By Lieutenant Payer                            449
+
+    CHAPTER XII.--Hunting and Animal Life in East Greenland.
+    By Lieutenant Payer and Dr. Copeland, with additions by
+    Dr. Hartlaub                                                    465
+
+    CHAPTER XIII.--Sledge-Journeys in Spring. April to July,
+    1870. By Dr. Börgen and Dr. Copeland                            486
+
+    CHAPTER XIV.--Excursions to Sabine and Clavering Islands, to
+    examine remains of Esquimaux Settlements. By Dr. Pansch         507
+
+    CHAPTER XV.--The Germania steams Northwards. 22nd to 31st
+    July. By Captain Koldewey                                       529
+
+    CHAPTER XVI.--Coast Voyage of the Germania towards South.
+    Jackson Island.--Cape Broer Ruys.--Boat-Journey.--Discovery
+    of Francis-Joseph’s Fjord. By Captain Koldewey                  539
+
+    CHAPTER XVII.--Sailing into the Fjord.--Ascent of Payer’s
+    Peak.--Discovery of Petermann’s Peak.--Homeward Voyage
+    decided on. By Captain Koldewey, Lieutenant Payer, and
+    Dr. Pansch                                                      551
+
+    CHAPTER XVIII.--Return to Bremerhaven. By Captain Koldewey      565
+
+    Conclusion. By Captain Koldewey                                 574
+
+    Appendix                                                        581
+
+
+
+
+                     DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+                          HALF-PAGE WOODCUTS
+
+                                                                   PAGE
+    Killer Dolphins                                                  43
+
+    Blocks of Ice with Seals                                         80
+
+    Cape Broer Ruys                                                  82
+
+    Cape James                                                       83
+
+    The Flower-Basket                                                86
+
+    The Devil’s Thumb                                                95
+
+    The Brandenburg Gate                                             96
+
+    Hunting the Polar Bear                                           97
+
+    Polar Bear as a Watch-dog                                        98
+
+    Ice-formations                                                   99
+
+    Skating on “Sinai”                                              100
+
+    Snow-Sphinx                                                     119
+
+    Iceberg with Refraction, by Capo Löwenörn                       139
+
+    Iceberg                                                         146
+
+    Hunting the Polar Bear                                          147
+
+    The boat Bismarck                                               149
+
+    Iceberg                                                         151
+
+    The Look-out                                                    154
+
+    Sketch of Hansa Haven                                           165
+
+    Group of Esquimaux                                              177
+
+    Ruins of Erick Rauda’s House                                    235
+
+    Ice-drift Formations                                            268
+
+    First Sight of Land                                             272
+
+    Tent for Sledge-journeying                                      313
+
+    Arctic Fox at a trap                                            352
+
+    Tent-quarters                                                   360
+
+    Young Walrus                                                    369
+
+    Surprised by a Bear                                             430
+
+    Depôt on Kuhn Island                                            460
+
+    Hühnerberg Glacier                                              489
+
+    The Kronenberg                                                  490
+
+    Block of Basalt                                                 497
+
+    Fossil from Kuhn Island                                         504
+
+    Ruined Esquimaux Huts, &c.                                      508
+
+    Longitudinal section of Esquimaux Hut                           509
+
+    Portions of Esquimaux Implements                                517
+
+    Ruined Huts on Sabine Island                                    526
+
+    Esquimaux Box                                                   542
+
+    Regenerated Glacier                                             553
+
+    End of a Glacier                                                555
+
+    Lower end of the Glaciers                                       557
+
+
+                         WHOLE PAGE WOODCUTS.
+
+                                                           TO FACE PAGE
+
+    The Germania                                                     14
+
+    The Hansa                                                        16
+
+    Warping through the Ice                                          86
+
+    Ice formations                                                  102
+
+    The Liverpool coast                                             105
+
+    The Hansa in distress                                           108
+
+    Wreck of the Hansa                                              112
+
+    Ground-plan of the “Hansa” house                                114
+
+    The Hansa House on the Floe                                     115
+
+    Iceberg                                                         132
+
+    Bivouac in boats                                                133
+
+    Dragging the boats to Illuidlek Island                          155
+
+    Coast to the South of Illuidlek                                 157
+
+    The Boats under sail                                            164
+
+    Boat-Journeys with Canoes                                       198
+
+    Lichtenau                                                       207
+
+    In the Pack                                                     270
+
+    The Germania in the Ice                                         331
+
+    The Germania on Sabine Island                                   336
+
+    Iceberg near Cape Borlase Warren                                356
+
+    On Deck                                                         372
+
+    Deep-snow Travelling                                            452
+
+    Death of the Musk Ox                                            456
+
+    Esquimaux Implements                                            516
+
+    Do.   do.                                                     _ib._
+
+    The Germania on the South Coast of Shannon                      538
+
+    Mountain Peak behind the Glaciers, &c.                          554
+
+    Glacier of Payer’s Peak                                         560
+
+
+                           STEEL ENGRAVINGS.
+
+    Karl Koldewey, Commander of the Expedition, Captain of the
+    Germania                                                         11
+
+    Paul Friedrich August Hegemann, Captain of the Hansa             35
+
+
+                        COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+    Arrival of Boats at Friedrichsthal                   _Frontispiece_
+
+    Queen Augusta Valley                                            306
+
+    Tirol Fjord                                                     363
+
+    The Devil’s Castle                                              552
+
+
+                                 MAPS.
+
+                      (TO BE PLACED AT THE END.)
+
+    Chart of the Northern Portion of East Greenland surveyed on the
+    Sledge-Journey, from 24th March to 27th April, 1870.
+
+    Chart of the Voyage and Discoveries of the Second German Arctic
+    Expedition, with the aid of previous Charts.
+
+
+
+
+                             INTRODUCTION.
+
+   First suggestion of the undertaking at a festival given
+   at Bremen in honour of Dr. Petermann and the First German
+   Arctic Expedition.--Dr. Petermann’s plan of the 30th of
+   October, 1868.--Dr. Petermann consents to the building of
+   the Germania from the remaining funds of the Expedition of
+   1868.--His programme of the 8th of March, 1869.--Exploration
+   of the Central Arctic region with the east coast of
+   Greenland as a basis.--Captain Koldewey’s circuit through
+   the provinces.--Statement of the project.--Forming of
+   committees in different German towns for the support of the
+   undertaking.--Assistance of the Newspaper Press.--Formation
+   of the Bremen Committee.--Opposition to the choice of
+   the yacht Greenland as the second ship.--The Hamburg
+   Committee.--Further action.--Definitive resolutions.--Appeal
+   of the 10th of May.--The commander and the scientific
+   staff of the expedition.--The steamer Germania.--Fitting
+   the Hansa for the Arctic voyage.--Outfit.--Scientific
+   instruments.--Captain Koldewey’s audience in Bremen previous
+   to departure.--Instructions for the Second German Arctic
+   Expedition.--Activity of the Bremen Committee in raising funds
+   to cover the cost of the expedition.
+
+
+On the 24th of October, 1868, a number of gentlemen were assembled
+at Bremen, to celebrate the happy return of the members of the First
+German Arctic Expedition, including their commander Captain Karl
+Koldewey, and its scientific originator, Dr. A. Petermann. It was on
+this occasion that expression was first given to the idea of another
+expedition to this inhospitable region. Preliminary conferences took
+place between Dr. Petermann, Captain Koldewey, Dr. Breusing, and
+Messrs. Meier and Rosenthal, the result of which was that the despatch
+of a new expedition became only a question of ways and means. The
+“Rough sketch of a plan for the German Arctic Expedition of 1869,”
+with maps, from Dr. Petermann, was not long wanting. According to
+his suggestion, the expedition was to consist of two parts, so as to
+endeavour to solve two problems at the same time. A steamer was to land
+on East Greenland, and taking it as the basis of the winter operations,
+should try to penetrate into the heart of the Polar region; a second
+steamer should, at any point between Greenland and Nova Zembla, strive
+to reach the highest latitude possible. For the carrying out of this
+plan two steamers were considered necessary. But the preparations
+soon reached a critical point. It was with but small results for his
+trouble that Koldewey, whose enthusiasm and self-sacrifice in the cause
+became daily more apparent, strove to keep up the interest in it by
+repeated consultations in influential quarters. Dr. Petermann then
+decided that, in order to render the carrying out of the exploration
+practicable that year, he would, with the money still in hand from the
+first expedition, commission the building of a steamer, the dimensions
+of which should both meet the requirements of an Arctic voyage, and
+keep within the compass of their straitened means. It became necessary
+for the promoters to drop one part of Dr. Petermann’s original plan,
+and confine themselves either to exploring the Central Arctic region,
+with the coast of Greenland for a basis, or to advancing towards the
+North Pole by the open sea between Nova Zembla and Spitzbergen. Captain
+Koldewey declared for the former course, and also for retaining the
+programme of the Expedition of 1868; taking this view of the case,
+viz., that it must be a condition _sine qua non_ to make the
+coast, in which case they would have a far greater prospect, even under
+the most difficult and adverse circumstances, of making discoveries and
+scientific investigations, than by advancing on the high sea towards
+the Pole.
+
+Dr. Petermann acknowledged the force of this argument, and agreed that
+East Greenland must be the point to keep in sight.
+
+A communication dated from Gotha, 8th March, 1869, brought these
+proceedings to the knowledge of the friends of the undertaking. The
+plan was now nearly as follows: “That the expedition should consist
+of a newly-built screw steamer and of the sailing-yacht ‘Greenland,’
+a ship of the pioneer journey of 1868; that the end and aim of the
+same should be discovery and exploration in the Central Arctic region,
+from 74° N.L. upwards, the East Greenland coast being the basis. The
+‘Greenland,’ acting as consort and transport-ship, should return in
+the autumn of the same year; but the return of the chief ship should
+not take place until late in the autumn of 1870, after their intended
+wintering. That the aim of the expedition should be scientific, as
+well as nautical; the latter department being under the command of
+Captain Karl Koldewey, who the year before had proved himself so able
+in every respect, and whose character for courage, perseverance, and
+self-sacrifice in the cause, called for unhesitating confidence.” The
+scientific staff had already been partly chosen. To awaken interest in
+this new undertaking, no trouble was thought too great either by Dr.
+Petermann or Captain Koldewey, the latter undertaking circuits through
+Germany and delivering lectures in several places, which were sometimes
+followed by profitable results, and sometimes gave expectation of the
+same. At the same time he circulated a confident, independent, and
+well drawn up pamphlet, giving the nautical view of the question, in
+one respect differing slightly from Dr. Petermann’s original plan,
+namely, that if the coast of East Greenland was not reached until the
+middle of August, then the eastern coast of Spitzbergen and Gillisland
+should be the object of investigation. These explanations found their
+way into the daily press, exciting great interest. Dr. Petermann,
+though not quite agreeing with Koldewey’s proceedings, acted with great
+zeal in trying to bring the undertaking to a successful issue. At his
+suggestion Dr. Bastian in Berlin, and Professor Arendts in Munich,
+formed committees for receiving subscriptions. The Berlin Committee was
+chosen from members of the Berlin Geographical Society, amongst whom
+were renowned representatives of science, who published on the 3rd of
+April an energetic appeal for subscriptions. In this appeal attention
+was particularly drawn to the scientific and great national importance
+of the undertaking. Berlin, as the metropolis of the North German
+Confederation, the centre of her national efforts, was called upon, now
+that an important object for knowledge and action offered itself, to
+issue the first appeal. The sum still wanting was certain to be soon
+made up; and if Berlin with cheerful self-sacrifice once led the way,
+other towns would not be left behind. The appeal to the inhabitants
+of Munich (dated May) was issued by the Geographical Society, and
+signed by Professor Dr. Jolly as director, and Professor Dr. Arendts
+as secretary. Accordingly, collections were set on foot throughout the
+whole of Bavaria. In Bremen, where the preparations for the undertaking
+were to be carried out, and where it would probably find its best
+support, people were very favourable to the project. In a succession
+of communications in the daily press, and the _Weser-Zeitung_
+particularly, in an explanatory light article of the 4th of April,
+the national, nautical, and scientific importance of the undertaking
+were dwelt upon. Essays of the same kind soon appeared in the other
+different German papers. We must not forget to mention here, that
+the first favourable notice of the expedition came from the Marine
+Society _Concordia_, at Elsfleth. The chief towns throughout
+the whole of the North-Sea and Baltic coasts, beginning at Bremen,
+were actively interested in the cause. Before the formation of the
+committee at Bremen, Mr. G. Albrecht was induced by the Consul, H. H.
+Meier, with Dr. Petermann’s concurrence, to undertake the management
+of the accounts. When Consul Meier afterwards withdrew, Mr. A. G.
+Mosle undertook the presidency, offered to him by Mr. G. Albrecht and
+M. Lindeman, in order that a committee might be organized. With this
+view the first meeting took place on the 9th of April in the house
+of Messrs. Schütting. It was composed of Captain Koldewey, Mosle,
+Albrecht, C. H. Noltenius, director of the pilot-school in Bremen, Dr.
+A. Breusing, D. H. Wätjen, jun., Ship-builder F. Tecklenborg, sen., the
+Recorder of the Commercial Board H. A. Schumacher, Captain Gutkese
+from Bremerhaven, and M. Lindeman, reporter. Captain Karl Koldewey laid
+the plan of the undertaking before them, and the choice of the steamer
+as expedition-ship and the “Greenland” as transport-ship. Director
+Breusing declared that to enable them to accomplish any great result,
+two steamers with outfits for three or four years would be necessary.
+Some gentlemen were of opinion that, if possible, a larger ship should
+be chosen in the place of the small confined sailing-yacht “Greenland,”
+which might be richly stored with coals and provisions, so as to put
+them in a position to pass more than one winter, if necessary, and
+thus, if possible, carry their investigation further northward. In
+the next sitting they agreed that Dr. Petermann and Captain Koldewey
+being really the originators of the undertaking, it devolved upon the
+committee to support the efforts of these gentlemen to the utmost
+of their power. The meeting styled themselves “The Bremen Committee
+for the Second North Arctic Expedition,” and chose A. G. Mosle as
+president, G. Albrecht as treasurer, and M. Lindeman as secretary. The
+committee, to which Messrs. R. Fritze, W. Nielsen, and Captain Ludwig
+Geerken were added, published on the 17th of April an appeal to their
+fellow-townsmen for subscriptions, which, among other things, contained
+the following:--“The scientific and maritime importance of the
+undertaking is everywhere admitted, and everywhere the highest interest
+evinced in it. Bremen will not be behind in promoting this national
+work. It rests for German inquiry to open up new domains, in order to
+show that German sailors are as qualified, as bold, and as persevering
+as those of other nations.”
+
+The discussion with Dr. Petermann as to whether a larger transport-ship
+should be chosen or not, led to no satisfactory conclusion. For
+practical as well as financial reasons he decided in the negative.
+But on the other side were voices of weight and influence in nautical
+circles of the North Sea and Baltic coasts, and which must be heard.
+People thought it right to raise serious objections to the insufficient
+size of the ship. These, with very great exaggeration, found expression
+in the daily press, so much so that Captain Koldewey was obliged to
+interfere by letter to the newspapers. In Hamburg one of the prime
+movers in the undertaking, the director of the North German Marine
+Observatory, W. v. Freeden, had resolved to form a committee. A number
+of representatives of respectable firms, the directors of the Marine
+and Astronomical Observatories, formed themselves into the “Hamburg
+Committee for the Northern Expedition of 1869.” On the 23rd of April
+an appeal followed, in which it was represented that Hamburg had
+always shown a lively interest in all national questions, and with
+regard to this undertaking felt it incumbent upon it, remembering
+its antecedents, to guard its position as the leading seaport of
+Germany. The Hamburg Committee also declared, in a sitting at which
+Dr. Petermann and Captain Koldewey were present, for Dr. Petermann’s
+published plan of the 8th of March. By degrees the interest of the
+nation and the whole of the country began to warm more and more. New
+committees were formed in Oldenburg, Emden, and Leer, in Rheinhessen
+(Worms and Oppenheim), at Karlsruhe, Lübeck, Königsberg, and Rostock.
+The committee of Bremen, in a letter of the 2nd of May addressed to
+the Berlin Committee, thus defined its position with regard to the
+carrying out of the expedition:--“After a lengthy conference between
+the seafaring men belonging to our committee, and the whale fishermen
+of the Weser-fleet, and others of the profession, we have decided that
+our direct influence must be directed and confined to the way and
+manner of carrying out the following points:--To keep in view that the
+ships shall be as good as possible, and to carefully see to the supply
+of provisions and coal. Every other nautical question coming under
+our consideration we have laid, and will continue to lay before the
+commander of the expedition, and thoroughly enter into it with him,
+still, however, not considering it our business to interfere.” A larger
+ship than the “Greenland” having been proposed, and this proposal
+approved of by Captain Koldewey, as well as by Captain Hegemann, who,
+being familiar with the Arctic waters, was to take the command of the
+second ship, it was agreed to. Amongst other reasons advanced for
+this was, that besides the thirty tons of coal required for heating
+in winter, the Germania could at the utmost only carry forty tons for
+feeding the engines. On this head alone the choice of a larger ship
+was desirable--namely, that the expedition was to be supplied with
+provisions for a longer time than was originally intended. The pending
+question as to procuring a larger ship instead of the “Greenland” was
+solved at a sitting of the Bremen Committee on the 8th of May, at which
+Dr. Petermann, Director W. v. Freeden from Hamburg, and three other
+scientific men interested in the expedition, were present--viz., that a
+number of Bremen merchants should be security for the purchase-money
+for a larger companion vessel to the amount of £1500. Dr. Petermann
+now declared decidedly for choosing a larger ship instead of the
+“Greenland,” and that a sailing ship, on the ground that a suitable
+steamer was not easily procurable, and that two scientific men should
+be attached to the ship. The following resolution was drawn up by Dr.
+Petermann and signed by all present at the meeting:--
+
+   “On the 7th of next month, the Second German Arctic Expedition,
+   under Captain Karl Koldewey, shall put to sea. This is the
+   unanimous resolution of the friends of the undertaking,
+   assembled from far and near, for the final settlement of the
+   plan, at Bremen, on the 8th of May.
+
+   “It is our unanimous endeavour to render every part of the
+   equipment as perfect as possible. After strict trial and
+   inspection, the steamer Germania, the newly-built chief ship
+   of the expedition, fulfils every expectation, as well as the
+   sailors who conduct it and the men of science who accompany it.
+   The steamer, like the convoy which accompanies her, will be
+   equipped for two years.
+
+   “The Germania’s size is expressly adapted for ice-navigation;
+   the accompanying ship, the Hansa, of nearly the same size,
+   will also be expressly adapted for the same purpose, and will
+   be under the command of Captain Fr. Hegemann, of Oldenburg. If
+   possible, the two ships will remain with each other, both on the
+   outward journey, through the winter, and also on the return.
+   Regard to the greatest possible security of the expedition has
+   led to this extension of the plan.
+
+   “The plan of the originator of the undertaking, Dr. Petermann,
+   of Gotha, which makes the eastern coast of Greenland the basis
+   for advancing into the centre of the Arctic region, is to remain
+   the first aim of this expedition.
+
+   “The Bremen Committee have become security for the necessary
+   means (£1500) for providing the second ship. We hope that in
+   other parts of Germany the friends of the undertaking will show
+   the same determination, as the enlarged plan requires greater
+   means.
+
+   “The naval and scientific importance of the expedition is
+   everywhere acknowledged; the means for speedily and fully
+   carrying it out, the interests of the German navy and of German
+   science demand.
+
+   “Bremen, 10th of May, 1869.
+
+   “Dr. A. Petermann,       A. G. Mosle,
+    Capt. K. Koldewey,      G. Albrecht,
+    Capt. Fr. Hegemann,     C. H. Noltenius,
+    W. v. Freeden,          Richard Fritze,
+    Dr. Börgen,             D. H. Wätjen,
+    Dr. Copeland,           W. Nielsen,
+    Dr. Med. Pansch,        Capt. L. Geerken,
+    M. Lindeman,            Capt. W. Gutkese,
+    H. H. Meier,            Synd. Dr. Schumacher.”
+
+Thus a firm foundation was laid for the whole undertaking, and the
+Bremen Committee could undisturbed make the numberless preparations and
+give all their attention and trouble to raising the money--a care which
+fell exclusively upon it, and was by no means small. Dr. Petermann had
+acted in the same way for the Expedition of 1868. The committee issued
+some thousands of circulars to raise money to meet the expense,
+which was now estimated at £10,500.
+
+  [Illustration: KARL KOLDEWEY.
+
+  _Captain of the Germania_.]
+
+The scientific staff for the Germania were, partly on Captain
+Koldewey’s proposal, chosen and appointed by Dr. Petermann.
+
+The commander of the whole expedition was Captain Koldewey, of Bucken,
+near Hoya, in the province of Hanover. He was in the thirty-second
+year of his age. Brought up in the Pilot School at Bremen, he had been
+a sailor sixteen years, that is from 1853. Giving up his practical
+business for a time, Koldewey, in order to improve himself, attended
+the Polytechnic School in Hanover, and in the winter of 1867 and 1868
+the University of Göttingen, where he studied physics and astronomy,
+which after his return from the first Arctic expedition, as far as the
+completion of his Report of it would allow, he took up again.
+
+The scientific members of the expedition, to ship in the Germania were
+the following:--
+
+1st. Dr. Karl N. J. Börgen, born in Schleswig on the 1st of October,
+1843. He attended the cathedral school in that place; was drafted in
+1863 to the University of Copenhagen, in 1864 to the University of
+Kiel, and in 1865 to that of Göttingen. In 1866, he was assistant in
+the observatory of that place; served as a volunteer in the army of
+the North German Alliance from January 15th, 1867, to 1868. Obtaining
+leave of absence for two years, he received on that occasion from the
+Prussian Ministry of Public Instruction a subsidy of £75.
+
+2nd. Dr. R. Copeland, born the 3rd of September, 1837, at Woodplumpton
+in Lancashire, England. Acquired a scientific education in his own
+country, travelled in foreign countries, and in 1865–67 studied
+astronomy in Göttingen. Since 1867 he had worked as voluntary assistant
+in the observatory of that place. In the spring of 1869 Dr. Börgen and
+himself published jointly a large astronomical work, together with
+“The History of Arctic Winterings.” In the present expedition they had
+undertaken both astronomical and physical science as well as geodesy.
+
+3rd. Julius Payer, first lieutenant of infantry in the Imperial
+Austrian army, twenty-seven years, old, was born at Teplitz, in
+Bohemia, where his father was captain of a regiment of lancers. His
+education and training he received in the Neustadt Military Academy,
+from which he received his commission as an officer in the army
+in 1859, followed by a garrison life in Mainz, Frankfort, Verona,
+Venice, and Jägerndorf. In Verona, excited by the neighbourhood of
+the Alps, Payer began his studies. There appeared in Justus Perthes’
+_Geographische Mittheilungen_ several scientific papers from his
+pen on the Gross-Glockner, the Adamell group, and the Ortler Alps. Of
+his other works, a treatise on the Bocca di Brenta is deserving of
+mention. In 1866 Payer took part in the Italian war, and received the
+cross of merit at Custozza; in 1868 he was recalled by the Minister of
+War and was commissioned to the survey of the inhospitable region of
+the mountainous district of Austria. The request for leave to accompany
+the Arctic expedition was granted most graciously by the Minister
+of War, together with a supply of fire-arms, a considerable store
+of gunpowder, and various scientific instruments. Payer joined the
+expedition with the prestige of his previous reputation for activity in
+the cause of science.
+
+4th. Adolphus Pansch, M.D., surgeon to the Germania, to whom
+were assigned the departments of zoology, botany, ethnology, and
+anthropology, was twenty-eight years old, and studied medicine and
+physical science in Berlin, 1860; in 1861, at Heidelberg, physiology
+and geology; travelled through Switzerland, attended the clinical
+lectures in Berlin and Halle; and later on passed the prescribed
+examination in Oldenburg as a practical physician, and was made
+demonstrator of anatomy in July, 1865. In 1866 he acted as private
+tutor at the University of Kiel. Pansch had written several scientific
+treatises, from amongst which we should specify, from its practical
+bearings and its extensive research, a pamphlet upon the “Flora of the
+Seas.” Dr. Pansch received permission from the government to join the
+expedition.
+
+The scientific men on board the Hansa were the two following:--
+
+1st. Dr. Buchholz, M.D., and surgeon to the Hansa, represented the
+departments of zoology, ethnology, and anthropology. Whilst serving
+as tutor at the University of Greifswald, he received leave to join
+the expedition, with a grant from the Minister of Public Instruction
+and the University of £75 for his outfit. Dr. Buchholz was born at
+Frankfort-on-the-Oder in 1837, studied in Königsberg and Berlin, and in
+the Bohemian campaign of 1866 was assistant-surgeon in a hospital of
+the Prussian army.
+
+2nd. Dr. Gustavus Laube, Vienna, professor of zoology and lecturer to
+the University and Polytechnic School in Vienna, thirty years old,
+was born in Teplitz, and studied in Prague, Munich, and Tübingen. He
+was afterwards assistant to Professor Hochstetter, in Vienna, who
+recommended him warmly for the expedition.
+
+The Germania, the chief ship of the expedition, was laid on the slips
+for building on the 10th of March, 1869, by Joh. C. Tecklenborg, of
+Bremerhaven, and was launched on the 16th of April. On the 9th of
+May, Captain Koldewey and Dr. Petermann went on board, accompanied by
+various members of the Bremen Committee, the director of the North
+German Marine Observatory, W. v. Freeden, and other friends (amongst
+whom were several experienced seamen). The ship was thoroughly
+inspected in all parts. W. v. Freeden’s report of this inspection, will
+form the best description of the ship. He says, that upon measuring
+the Germania she was ninety feet long, twenty-two and a half broad,
+eleven feet deep, and 143 tons burden: this size, a few years ago,
+was considered the highest standard for the best West Indian fruit or
+Brazilian coffee schooners. Of course the steamer was built stronger
+than required for such purposes as the above; and the ordinary planking
+was coated with a hand-thick sheathing, thus protecting the stem, and
+in a ship of 600 tons undiscernible below the water-line. Over this
+iron sheathing, which is bolted and riveted, not simply nailed on,
+is fastened a layer of sheet-iron. Thus double provision was made in
+order that the ice fretting at the ship’s sides should not force the
+oakum out of the seams, so causing a leakage. Over the iron sheathing,
+by the bow, heavy iron rods were laid crossways, close together.
+Notwithstanding this armour, the ship’s lines were pleasing to the eye,
+and, on account of her sharp build, she proved an excellent sailer.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 14._
+
+  THE GERMANIA.]
+
+In the interior also, the strength of her build was striking, even
+to landsmen. Such strong beams ’tween decks are seldom seen in vessels
+of 400 tons. They are only to be found in large barques and full-rigged
+ships. The knees were alternately of wood and iron; vertical supports
+above and below the middle deck protected it, together with bands
+of the strongest iron clamps, from any side pressure of masses of
+ice against the ship’s sides, so that neither keel or deck could be
+displaced. The sharp build of the ship would rather have the effect of
+raising her on to the ice, than of allowing her to be nipped by it.
+
+The compact machinery was mounted, and the axis tested in position;
+the double-flanged screw could be lifted in and out without trouble. A
+reserve screw was also taken. As the ship was to be completely fitted
+with sails, the machinery was only to be used amongst the ice, or when
+she was obliged to beat against the wind.
+
+The masts furnished were of that sort that no pressure on the sails
+nor heavy shock could dismast her. A topsail on the foremast rendered
+veering and backing easy, and her depth in the water was from nine
+to ten feet. As the ship’s course would lie along the eastern coast
+of Greenland, between the land and the not far distant ice-pack, a
+deeper draught would have been dangerous; neither could she have been
+much larger, for a larger vessel must have been flat-bottomed, to
+prevent her drawing too much water. This was satisfactorily proved
+on the voyage. Flat-bottomed vessels are very dangerous amongst the
+ice. Certainly the ship would have turned more easily, if she had been
+two feet broader; but her capability of threading the narrow channels
+between the ice would have been weakened in corresponding degree.
+
+Including the machinery and ship’s fittings, the Germania cost the
+round sum of £3150.
+
+The second ship, the purchase-money of which, as we have already
+remarked, had been previously guaranteed by some merchants belonging
+to the Bremen Committee, was the Prussian schooner Fulton, built on
+the Weser in 1864, of 76¾ tons burden. She received the name of the
+“Hansa,” and was laid on the slips by F. W. Wenke and Co. (Rosenthal).
+
+A difficult and important part of the preparations was the victualling
+the ships. The only precedents of use were supplied by the experience
+of those who had been engaged in the Greenland trade from the Weser.
+Certainly the eastward journey of the “Greenland,” in 1868, constituted
+somewhat of a guide. But never yet had a German ship sailed from
+the German coast with the intention of passing a winter in Arctic
+latitudes. On that account the experience of Englishmen, Americans,
+and Russians was carefully considered in the outfitting. Above all,
+attention was particularly paid to completeness and plentiful supply,
+as well as to the good quality of every article. The honourable
+character of the contractors, the eagerness shown on their side to
+further a national undertaking, and their wish on this occasion to
+keep up their reputation, stood the undertaking in good stead. On
+their departure, the members of the expedition particularly thanked
+them for the consideration they had shown to all their wishes with
+regard to the stores, and expressed their satisfaction with everything.
+Parsimony could not for a moment be considered at such a time; it would
+have been misplaced, inhuman, and destructive of the very aim of the
+expedition, had any niggardliness been shown. A complete outfit for
+both ships for two whole years was above all things a necessity, and
+indeed a point of honour.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 16._
+
+  THE “HANSA.”]
+
+The contract for the victualling of the Germania was given to D.
+Cordes and Co., of Bremen, and that for the Hansa to H. Richers of
+Hamburg. Neither ship carried much dried or salted meat, but a great
+quantity of preserved meats in tins; also a good supply of drinks,
+which are so necessary on an Arctic voyage, besides many presents of
+wine; and lastly, a corresponding quantity of clothing for all who
+were taking part in the expedition. Both ships had a similar allowance
+of everything needful; and the Berlin Committee were of very great
+assistance in providing scientific apparatus and instruments, some of
+the most important of which were kindly lent by various persons and
+institutions.
+
+On the 28th of May, Captain Koldewey had an audience of his Majesty
+King William at Babelsberg. His Majesty allowed Captain Koldewey to
+explain his plan by aid of a map. He expressed his satisfaction that a
+man had been found willing to carry out the undertaking, and fixed his
+visit to the vessels for his future intended journey to Bremen.
+
+The time of starting was settled for the middle of June; and from March
+to that time every exertion was brought to bear upon the work that all
+might be complete. The equipment in every respect was accomplished in
+good time; and when all was ready for departure, a joint committee
+was called together to consider, at the last moment, what had been
+accomplished, and what remained to be decided on, in the case of
+certain eventualities. The scientific men were first greeted with the
+warmest thanks for their courageous resolution, and the hope expressed
+that it would be followed by rich results. It was then decided by the
+committee that the expedition should sail from Bremerhaven on the 15th
+of June at noon. A telegram addressed to Captain Koldewey confirmed
+the interest which King William had already shown in the undertaking,
+stating that on the 15th he would be in Bremerhaven and Geestemünde.
+All was then to be prepared for the king’s visit and for immediate
+departure. An elaborate form was drawn up by Dr. Petermann on the
+7th of June under the title of “Instructions for the Second German
+Arctic Expedition of 1869–70.” On all the chief points both captains
+and scientific men were agreed, though some seemed to require earnest
+consideration; but there was now no time for further discussions.
+However, they agreed to make some unimportant alterations regarding
+the official reports of the expedition, and the ownership of the notes
+made by the scientific members during the voyage, as well as regarding
+the form and address of any communications to be sent home. They were
+all to be sent to Dr. Petermann. On the return of the expedition a
+preliminary report was to be drawn up, and the whole given up to a
+commission composed of the captains and scientific men belonging to the
+expedition, and the supporters and leaders of the undertaking, as well
+as scientific authorities. Dr. Petermann informed them of his agreement
+to these alterations by telegraph.
+
+The most important part of the proceedings of the joint committee lay
+in the last consultation, namely, how and when tidings of the men
+belonging to the expedition were to be gained in case their return
+should be too long delayed, and they should require assistance, or if
+their death should take place on the ice-fields of Greenland. It was
+resolved:--
+
+“That the expedition should, on the coast or islands, as nearly as
+possible under each degree of latitude or longitude, build up a heap
+of stones, or some other erection; that the burying of documents
+detailing the events and condition of the undertaking should not be
+within this sign, but at a distance of twenty metres due north of it
+(_not magnetic_). And if from the nature of the ground no such
+distance could be taken, the documents were still to be deposited to
+the northward. The monuments were, if possible, to be erected on a
+declivity; and as the Esquimaux greatly venerate all graves, so, in
+case of death, tidings of the expedition were to be placed under the
+body.” At the same spot also all notices of the German Arctic voyage
+were to be sought if they themselves were unable to give information.
+This decision was telegraphed to Dr. Petermann, who returned his assent.
+
+Then followed a solemn oath taken by all those belonging to the
+expedition; the two captains, as well as the scientific men, promising
+that both by word and deed, and under all circumstances, they would
+strive with all their might to reach the goal set before them.
+
+The instructions contained thirty-one paragraphs; in Sects. 1 and 2 the
+aim and object of the expedition was declared to be the discovery and
+scientific investigation of the Central Arctic region from 75° N.L. and
+upwards, taking the eastern coast of Greenland as a basis. This object
+included two tasks: 1st, the solving of the so-called Arctic question;
+2nd, the discovery, surveying, and investigation of East Greenland;
+thence northwards towards Behring’s Straits, including all intermediate
+countries, islands, and stretch of sea; the measuring of degrees in
+East Greenland, and ascents of the glaciers in the interior, &c., &c.
+
+In the third, the “Arctic question,” with special regard to the late
+Swedish, Russian, and English voyages of discovery, was discussed. For
+the better investigation of the Polar Sea, and for reaching the North
+Pole itself, the following of the coast-line was strictly enjoined, as
+experience had shown that land is the soonest free from ice, and that
+along the coast is formed the so-called land water; the navigation too
+has a chance of commencing earlier, is comparatively safe, and promises
+the largest results, as really important scientific discoveries can
+scarcely be expected without the solid basis of land.
+
+The Second German Arctic Expedition would therefore make East Greenland
+their basis of operations. Even under the greatest difficulties, the
+results from an investigation of East Greenland, and an extended
+knowledge of that still unknown coast, might be expected to mark an
+epoch in the history of science.
+
+Sect. 6 ordered that both ships under the command of Captain Karl
+Koldewey should make direct for the floating ice of East Greenland
+in about 74½° N.L., and as soon as possible reach Sabine Island,
+lying on the east coast in that latitude, and then deliberate on the
+accessibility of the coast from 70° to 79°.
+
+Sects. 7 and 8 decided as follows: if in 74½° N.L. immediate access to
+the coast was not possible on account of the ice and the state of the
+weather, and there was no prospect of being able to reach it in a short
+time, the attempt must be made farther northward as far as 80°; if
+still unsuccessful, to go as low down as 70°, and take advantage of any
+opening lying between 70° and 80° N.L. If the coast of East Greenland
+in 74½° is reached, or any other point between 70° and 80° N.L., and it
+is found (as in the course of things might be expected) that there is
+open water, so, without more delay than is necessary for observing and
+surveying the newly-discovered land about 75° 14 N.L., to press forward
+to the north, and to go as far along the coast as circumstances will
+allow.
+
+Sect. 9 pointed out as the chief task of the expedition, the
+geographical one of penetrating into the still unknown heart of the
+Arctic regions, and stated that every other consideration was to give
+place to the solution of this question.
+
+Sects. 10 and 11 enlarged upon the scientific work, and the different
+course to be taken by the expedition in case they should find open sea
+in the region of the Polar circle.
+
+By Sect. 12, they were enjoined to winter at the most northerly
+point they could reach--if possible at the North Pole itself, but in
+any case it was hoped in not less than 80° of lat. Of the remaining
+instructions, we must draw attention to the Sects. 15, 16, 22, 24, 27,
+and 28. The two first-mentioned decided as follows:--The return of
+the expedition was to be managed so that both vessels should, at the
+latest, arrive at Bremerhaven together about the 1st of November, 1870.
+If the Hansa should be unable to keep up with the steamer Germania,
+either on account of the ice or want of fair wind, the steamer should
+without any delay proceed on her course, leaving the Hansa to follow
+as soon as possible. In case of separation, the point each ship was
+to make for was 74½° N.L. outside the floating ice, though along the
+coast. By this Sabine Island was meant.
+
+Sect. 22 consisted of the special instructions drawn up by various
+German _savans_, and communicated through Dr. Petermann.
+
+In Sect. 24 particular reference was made to the importance of the
+ascent of glaciers, to be undertaken by Lieut. Payer.
+
+Sects. 27 and 28 contained further orders concerning the naming of
+the newly-discovered lands, which for the most part was to be left
+until the completion of the general map at home; also regarding the
+value and the use to be made of the collections brought home, and the
+apportionment of the work resulting therefrom. All these provisions
+could only be seriously considered on the return of the expedition, and
+would then serve as rules for the guidance of the Bremen Committee.
+With this the complicated preparations were ended, and the day of
+departure drew near.
+
+The Bremen Committee might now look upon that part of their task which
+related to the support of these preparations as finished. Another
+part which, as has been already remarked, devolved entirely upon
+them, was that of raising the considerable amount still required to
+defray the cost of the undertaking. At the time of starting, not half
+the cost of the expedition had been raised, and the Bremen Committee
+were, in this task, busily occupied for more than a year. Invitations
+for subscriptions were published and sent to private individuals as
+well as to corporations, to the representatives of Germany in foreign
+countries, and also to the magistrates of many German towns.[1] An
+account of the position of the undertaking was spread over the whole
+of Germany by thousands of circulars, and even among the Germans
+in foreign towns and in Transatlantic lands; the summons being a
+printed communication entitled,--“The Despatch of the Second German
+Arctic Expedition.” And, lastly, by the generous coming forward of an
+eminent German publisher, Mr. George Westermann, in Brunswick, the
+entire public was provided with a pamphlet containing some excellent
+wood engravings drawn to scale, entitled, “The Second German Arctic
+Expedition: Official Communication of the Bremen Committee,” in
+which more distinct information was given as to the aim, means, and
+importance of the undertaking. This agitation, which kept alive the
+interest in it, was followed by the best results. Donations[2] poured
+in from all sides from Germans in foreign lands, even from Honolulu and
+Tahiti, South America, the East Indies, and China.
+
+The debts incurred by the expedition were paid off, and even after its
+return new and pressing expenses were met. The Bremen Committee were
+also freed from the insurance money of the Hansa, and some of Captain
+Koldewey’s men had extra wages given to them.
+
+Whether and to what extent the Second German Arctic Expedition
+fulfilled the promised expectations, what and how much it was allowed
+to perform and to attain, with a full and true report of the same, is
+the task and aim of the work now before us.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER I.
+
+            VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA AND HANSA FROM THE 15TH
+                      JUNE TO THE 4TH JULY, 1869.
+
+   First evening at sea.--Life on board.--The first
+   storm.--Cabin life.--In 57° N.L.--Dutch fishing-boat.--Visits
+   exchanged.--Fresh storm and fog.--Entrance to the North Sea.--A
+   clear night.--Animal life.
+
+
+The departure of the expedition from Bremerhaven took place on the 15th
+of June, 1869, in the presence of his Majesty the King of Prussia,
+whose warm interest in this great national undertaking showed itself
+in this solemn hour in a manner never to be forgotten. Amongst the
+numerous gentlemen in attendance on his Majesty were his Royal Highness
+the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg Schwerin, Count Bismarck, the Minister
+of War and Marine, von Roon, General von Moltke, and Vice-Admiral
+Jachman. The ships lay at the entrance of the new harbour just outside
+the sluice. The king having been introduced to the scientific gentlemen
+and the commander of the expedition, and having greeted them with a
+hearty shake of the hand, the President of the Bremen Committee, Herr
+A. G. Mosle, requested his Majesty’s permission to speak a few parting
+words; and in an earnest and impressive manner the speaker referred
+to the greatness and importance of the object, the self-denial,
+difficulties, and dangers which lay before them, but which they all
+willingly braved for the honour of their native land, for the honour of
+the German navy and of German science. That the Second German Arctic
+Expedition should put to sea under the eyes of his Majesty, would, he
+was sure, be looked upon by all present as a happy omen; and all might
+with good reason join in cheering the august Monarch of their country,
+whose mighty representative and protector he was, as well as those on
+board the two vessels, who were about to sail under the national flag
+lent by his Majesty, to unknown lands in search of knowledge. Cheers
+from a thousand voices then rent the air, after which the king once
+more shook hands with those belonging to the expedition, at the same
+time expressing hearty good wishes for their safe return. The king then
+passed on to the Germania at the head of his suite, and inspected the
+now finished preparations with great attention. But the decisive moment
+had arrived; cannon roared; three more cheers rose from either side,
+and the Germania towed by the steam-tug Simson, and the Hansa by the
+Vulcan, made for the mouth of the Weser, the king watching the ships to
+the very mouth of the harbour. It was an exciting time, as we glided
+over the quiet liquid mirror alongside of the quay--the banks decked
+with the fresh green of spring-time and enlivened by a gaily-dressed
+crowd, and the flags flying from the ships, large and small,--and took
+our last view of the houses and towers of the town.
+
+With heads uncovered and handkerchiefs waving, our friends sent their
+last farewell. But with these feelings of pleasure were mixed thoughts
+regarding the future. Would it be permitted to us some day to return
+home? How many of us might be missing, sick, or infirm? How should we
+find our country? Would it still be, as now, enjoying the blessings of
+peace, and its grey-headed king still be living?
+
+But we were not yet quite parted from it. Besides the pilot, two
+staunch friends, who would not be deprived of the pleasure of
+accompanying us to sea, were still on board. One was the director of
+the North German Marine Observatory, Mr. von Freeden, and the other the
+director of the Observatory of Göttingen, Professor Klinkerfues, who
+wished to take his last farewell of his pupils on the sea.
+
+The town was now fast disappearing from our eyes; the flat green banks
+on either side, with their solitary houses and church towers, were
+receding; and the lighthouse, visible for a long distance, was looming
+nearer and nearer.
+
+In the meantime the crew had not been idle on deck. Everything that had
+come on board in the hurry of the last hour had either been put in its
+proper place or made fast, and everywhere the last touch put. But in
+the cabin, where a magnificent bouquet had been placed by some loving
+hand, accompanied by a few appropriate poetical words of farewell,
+a most pleasing surprise to us, we sat with our friends over a good
+glass of wine, once more renewing every kind wish and hope for the
+future. One was hurriedly scribbling a last good-bye to relations and
+friends, another entrusting his money to those who were about to return
+(for in such an expedition it would have been comparatively useless),
+a third had only a greeting and a commission to send. Once more the
+glasses clinked over wishes for success and a happy return; and then
+we went on deck, for the increased motion of the ship reminded us that
+we were nearing the sea. Indeed, we had already left the lighthouse
+and fire-ship far behind us, and passed the last sea-mark, the
+“Schlüsseltonne.” The tug stopped, the hawser was cast off, a boat came
+off from the pilot-cutter close by, and the pilot left us. Immediately
+afterwards a boat came alongside, and we were obliged to take leave of
+our friends. A hearty shake of the hand said more than words could. A
+last nod, and they too set off, not to reach the harbour until a late
+hour. By this time the Hansa had reached us and dismissed her tug. At
+first starting, she had had the misfortune to break her towing cable,
+from which circumstance, had we been superstitious, we should have
+drawn a bad augury. But this weakness, so much indulged in by seamen of
+all nations, was wanting in our community.
+
+We were now fairly left to ourselves, and with a cheerful song
+the sailors set one sail after another; and thus, with a light
+south-westerly breeze, which had just sprung up, under full sail
+for the north we left our native land, to meet an uncertain future.
+The prevailing frame of mind was serious; every man of us knew what
+depended individually upon himself, and what was expected of us; that
+the whole world of letters was watching the undertaking; but still we
+had full confidence in the cause, and were fully determined to return
+to our native shore only with honour.
+
+The ships sailed pretty well together, though the light breeze gave the
+Hansa a little advantage, the mainsail of the Germania not being large
+enough for such a wind. Under these circumstances, we had no difficulty
+in keeping company.
+
+Below, there was still enough to do to get things in order. Our chests
+were already unpacked, and the cabin, whither most of our effects had
+been brought, somewhat cleared, that we might at least have room for
+ourselves. At eight o’clock the two captains met once more to have
+a necessary consultation as to the course they should now take. We
+then, for the first time, took our tea and supper all together at a
+modestly-laid table, took one more walk on the deck of the ship, now
+gaily sailing northward, sent one more long earnest look, many a wish,
+back to our now no longer visible country, and then, tired and worn out
+with the noise and excitement of the day, sought an early rest in our
+berths.
+
+The wind remained in the same quarter during the night, so that about
+midnight we passed the beacon off Heligoland.
+
+The daily ship’s life, that is, the occupation of the community on the
+Germania while at sea, was, of course, like that on any other ship:
+and the gentlemen in the cabin did their best to divide their time as
+follows:--“We are” (writes one of them) “awakened at half-past six,
+dress, and take our turns in the small washing-room, finish our toilet,
+and go on deck to enjoy the fresh morning air, and look after the
+weather, which at sea is a much more important object than on land.
+In the cabin, meanwhile, where cleaning has been begun quite early,
+the table is laid, and punctually at seven o’clock we sit down to
+breakfast, to which, besides bread and butter, is added cold meat of
+some kind or other, to which we were unaccustomed. The captain takes
+his meals with us, so that, as one officer is obliged to be on deck,
+we are seven. After breakfast, we generally stay a short time on deck,
+either sitting on the bulwarks or walking up and down, whistling a
+tune or smoking a morning cigar. Before dinner, we generally have
+some work to do in the cabin, though at first, in the dry weather,
+nothing much comes of it. At twelve, the work-table is changed into the
+dining-table, and with hungry stomachs we sit down to steaming soup.
+After dinner, we take a nap in the cabin, or (which is more agreeable)
+in fine weather on deck, where a sail or one of our airing counterpanes
+serves as a couch. Then another cigar; and about four o’clock we have
+coffee, which we frequently take in the open air. In the afternoon
+each goes to his own work or amusement; and, punctually at seven,
+the evening meal is on the table, tea with bread and butter and cold
+meat. The evening finds us at different occupations, either above or
+below; some playing chess or cards, smoking, and trying, in mutual
+reminiscences of home and talk of future plans, to divert our thoughts,
+which, under the scouted name of home-sickness, will creep in now and
+then, particularly when we are out on a moonlight night. Between ten
+and twelve o’clock, we climb into our berths, and enjoy (except on
+stormy nights) a sound and healthy sleep. Over the smoking in the cabin
+there soon arose a lively debate. We found that amongst us, a thing
+very common in Germany, three were inveterate smokers; that three were
+decidedly the contrary, and that the seventh was neutral. On account
+of the smallness of the cabin, this was a decided difficulty. At last
+we came to an agreement, that there should be perfect liberty to smoke
+in the cabin from twelve until an hour before the evening meal; for
+the rest of the day it was forbidden. Should this interdict prove too
+burdensome for any one, he must have recourse to the deck; and he who
+at any time would not miss this enjoyment, could at least fall back
+upon a ‘deck cigar.’”
+
+In the first part of the time the want of longer walks was much felt,
+particularly in a rough sea, when it was impossible even to walk up
+and down. For this reason we often helped to furl the sails, or take
+the helm for an hour. Dr. Pansch even took part in the watches for a
+certain time, partly for amusement and the interest he took in sea
+life, which he had learnt in his native seaport town, and partly to
+become acquainted with the ship and the character of the men, which,
+in case of accidents, might be of great advantage. On the second day
+of our voyage the sea began to make itself seriously felt. The wind
+had veered to the north-west, and rose to a miniature storm, so it was
+no wonder that the greater part of us had to sacrifice to Neptune. The
+beginning of seasickness (writes one) was decidedly partly brought on
+by the fact that everything on board was _new_; the smell of paint
+and varnish was mixed with the vapour of woollen coverings; and this
+atmosphere found no vent, the door as well as the skylight being kept
+closely shut on account of the sea. And, as is often the case on board
+a new vessel, the seams were not perfectly caulked, so that water was
+constantly dropping into the cabin, and even into the berths on the
+sleepers. Besides that which ran down the stairs and was brought in
+with the clothes, a great deal collected under the matting, so that we
+lived in a very moist and vapoury atmosphere. If such inconveniences
+were not quite agreeable to experienced seamen, upon us, some of whom
+had come from the interior, and had never even smelt sea-water, they
+made a very disagreeable impression. Then the narrow space in which we
+were cramped, the very greasy food, and the impossibility of finding
+any work to occupy us, all acted greatly on both mind and stomach. But
+we got accustomed to it in time; and the day comes when a man is able
+to look at such disagreeables in a brighter light. Droll accidents,
+however, sometimes came to enliven the dulness of our situation. We
+scientific men found ourselves badly enough off in our berths. Like
+bedsteads, they were provided with a board that the occupants should
+not be thrown out. But as we had packed the greater part of our books,
+clothes, and small instruments under the mattresses, that means of
+protection answered no longer; and those lying on the leeward side were
+obliged every evening to prop it up with heaps of books. Even then,
+it often happened, if the ship rolled heavily, that one of us would
+be pitched from the upper berth into the middle of the cabin near the
+stove, and there lie in a state of astonishment.
+
+The stay on deck, too, was not always very agreeable, for boxes and
+packages of all kinds lessened the already narrow space to a painful
+degree. In a high rolling sea the ship was nearly always on her
+leeside, and more often took water on both sides, so that it was really
+only aft that we could keep our feet dry, or indeed move at all.
+
+The stormy weather of the 17th and 18th of June brought on a heavy
+sea, so that, in order not to get too far from each other the Hansa
+was obliged to keep more to leeward, but towards evening neared us
+again. The first look and the first words upon coming on deck naturally
+related to the Hansa, and so the oft-repeated question came to be a
+by-word, “Where is the Hansa?” “To leeward!”
+
+On the 19th, it was calm with fine weather, and a slight sea-roll
+to windward from the north. We took this opportunity of trying our
+machinery, and endeavoured to tow the Hansa. We succeeded beyond our
+expectations. With a steam pressure of only forty pounds we were able
+to bring the Hansa along at the rate of two and a half knots against
+the breeze, which seemed quite enough for our purpose. In the afternoon
+a light breeze from the north-east got up; the boiler was therefore
+dispensed with, the cable hauled in, and sail set, which gave us about
+eighty-eight nautical miles for the day’s run.[3] Then followed more
+than a week of almost uninterrupted violent north-west wind, which for
+many days kept us in 57° N.L.
+
+This long stand-still was very unsatisfactory, and tried our patience
+sorely. With every fresh morning did we hope for a change in the wind.
+The scientific men were particularly impatient, as the constant rolling
+of the ship prevented them from doing anything but read and read again.
+
+The zoologists were the only persons fortunate enough to find work in
+their department, although on board the Germania it seemed to result in
+nothing more than angling either on the surface or in deep water. Dr.
+Buchholz on the Hansa was busy with his task, helped by Dr. Laube, the
+geologist, with all his might, as well as by the whole of the sailors.
+As often as the weather permitted nets were thrown out, then drawn in
+from time to time, and emptied of their contents. The only good gained
+by this involuntary delay (so writes Dr. Pansch on board the Germania)
+was that we thoroughly learnt all the qualities of our vessel. The
+captain was delighted to find that she not only tacked well and easily,
+but that she worked well off the wind.
+
+The Hansa in this respect was far behind us, and we were often obliged
+to stand before the wind, that she might come up with us.
+
+The sailors on both ships soon showed their good qualities, and between
+them and the learned part of the ship’s company there was very soon a
+good understanding.
+
+The 26th of June formed a salutary pause in this stormy week; the wind,
+which had been fitful since the afternoon before, died quite away in
+the night, and the ship on the following morning was gently rolling
+with the now diminished breeze. This morning, in 57° N.L. and 2° 43′
+E.L., we came up with a small vessel, which our sailors had already
+recognized as a fishing-smack. On approaching nearer this was confirmed
+by the fish hung up to dry in the rigging; and immediately a lively
+longing awoke within us to have some cheap and fresh-caught members
+of the “scaly tribe” for our table. With this aim in view, one of our
+company hailed the northmen with a loud cry of, “Ship ahoy! have you
+any fish on board?” “Yes.” “Fresh fish?” “Yes.” “Come on board!” The
+small vessel was at once full of life; a boat was lowered, and in a
+short time was alongside of us, and two young sailors, looking like
+Dutchmen, came up with a basket of the finest kinds of large turbot
+and soles. In the jargon which all seafaring frequenters of the North
+Sea soon learn, be their native language Low Dutch, Flemish, Danish,
+Norwegian, Swedish, or English, we managed to negotiate with them, and
+with bright faces the fishermen took back as the price a piece of salt
+meat and bacon, together with a flask of brandy. They then asked if
+we had a doctor on board, and begged of him to go with them, as their
+“captain was sick.” For such an adventure, and unexpected extension of
+his practice, Dr. Pansch did not want a second invitation. He paid a
+visit to the worthy old Dutchman, and with the help of a limited stock
+of Dutch once gained in Holland, he succeeded in holding a conversation
+in the national gibberish with the honest fisher-people, giving his
+best advice to the “captain,” who had been struck with a bar on the
+breast, and also to an old sailor ill with scurvy, promising to send
+something to do them good. As a fee he brought back with him a second
+basketful of fish, and thus we had the pleasure of knowing that the
+whole of the ship, or as the sailors expressed it “all hands,” both
+at noon and in the evening could participate in the dainty food. When
+the sailors mentioned the direction of our voyage, the Dutchmen took
+us for whale-fishers; but on really understanding the unusual task
+that had been allotted to our ship, instead of opening their mouths
+wide with, perhaps, unintelligible pity, their eyes brightened. “Oh,
+new discoveries in Greenland!” they exclaimed, and became at once
+quite at home with us. It seemed as if the proud remembrance of a
+time long past, when Dutch ships made millions every year by the
+northern fisheries, and Dutch seamen enriched geography by the grandest
+discoveries, was still alive in the minds of these people. They now
+looked upon the ship with heightened interest, put many intelligent
+questions with regard to our wintering, and took leave of us with
+such repeated and hearty good wishes that many of our seamen at
+home, who thought fit to look upon our voyage with indifference or
+derision, would have been thoroughly put to shame by these simple Dutch
+fishermen. And the captain did not forget, immediately upon running
+his craft into the harbour, to enter his meeting with the Germania
+in the _Shipping News_; this notice being the first news of the
+expedition seen in the papers.
+
+  [Illustration: PAUL FRIEDRICH AUGUST HEGEMANN,
+
+  _Captain of the Hansa_.]
+
+These fishermen, with their old-fashioned craft, hang about the banks
+of the North Sea for weeks together. They fish with the line and the
+net, and catch turbot, soles, and cod more particularly. These are at
+once cleaned, cut into suitable pieces, salted in barrels, and then
+packed. When they have a good cargo they run into harbour, unload,
+and run out again. This practice they carry on as long as the weather
+will allow. For many years their captains and their steersmen have
+been familiar with the neighbourhood of the North Sea, and often, from
+hard-earned experience, know better than the most learned seaman how to
+take their bearings. Nautical instruments they do not use; they do not
+even understand them. According to the depth of the line and the nature
+of the matter brought up from the bottom by the lead, they know their
+whereabouts.
+
+With a light breeze rising, we continued our course, and about noon our
+sister-ship joined us. Captain Hegemann and Dr. Laube came on board,
+while Mr. Sengstacke and Dr. Pansch went over to the Hansa to shake
+hands with their friends once more.
+
+“It was interesting” (writes Dr. Pansch) “to see, from another ship,
+the Germania under sail, with her peculiar build, strong masts, and
+black body without any streaks. The peculiar pleasure one naturally
+feels at being stationed on the chief ship, and that a steamer, was to
+a certain degree corrected. What we Germania people had to bear from
+deprivations and want of room we fully realized, now that we saw the
+complete, and well-ordered space on the Hansa. In the handsome bright
+cabin (he continues) there were only five people. Dr. Buchholz showed
+me his nice cabin, which he enjoyed all to himself. In front of his
+bunk was room enough for chests and boxes, not piled one on another,
+but placed so that they could be got at; and besides that, a place
+for a writing-table, where he could work quietly and undisturbed. The
+deck-space was not encroached upon by all sorts of stores, and even now
+seemed to offer accommodation for working upon large animals, without
+being in the way of the sailors. There was room enough for a zoologist
+in cold and windy weather to put up his table there. We pictured to
+ourselves our united activity in the brightest colours; we agreed upon
+the plan of attack, and carrying out of our future work amongst the
+ice Fauna; we supplemented our literature by changing some books; in
+short, we lived entirely in the delightful contemplation of our great
+task. Fate had, however, ordered our future far otherwise. Besides
+this, every one on board both ships was overjoyed at last by a sunny
+day, and all tried their best to dry all their wet things. On board the
+Hansa this seemed particularly necessary, for lying in the sun on the
+quarter-deck were some thousands of cigars which in the storm had made
+too intimate an acquaintance with the sea-water. At noon each party
+returned to their own ship.”
+
+Then followed a two-days’ gale, which blew stubbornly from the
+north-west. It flooded the deck and cabin once more with water; but
+these days were the last to bring us any sad remembrance of the German
+Ocean. Upon nearing 59° N.L., exactly a fortnight after our departure,
+the influence of the north wind came to an end, and it came on to blow
+from the south.
+
+This last storm ended on the 28th of June, and the next day we went
+slowly forward. It was a clear, warm day, so that we opened and aired
+every place, and all dampness was once more got rid of. The deck, too,
+was perfectly dry; so it was cleared, and in some places caulked by the
+carpenter.
+
+In the last days of June the freshening north wind brought us another
+hindrance, which was to follow us for many days. As long as the
+temperature stood at 50° F. a fog rose about noon, which in the evening
+grew so dense, that for fear of being separated from the Hansa each
+ship was obliged to blow the fog-horn alternately for sixteen hours,
+the broken tones of which sounded most melancholy through the troubled
+atmosphere.
+
+Slowly but surely we cruised onwards, so that on the evening of the
+1st of July we had the pleasure of finding ourselves in 61° N.L., and
+of passing the entrance between Norway and the Shetland Isles. With
+that, the German Ocean was left behind and the open sea reached, which
+already made itself felt by the peculiar “Atlantic swell.” We now
+found ourselves in that part of the Atlantic known to Germans as the
+“Nordmeer.”
+
+For this first part of our voyage, which a ship with a fair wind would
+have made in about two days and a half, we had taken sixteen days. From
+the clear space before us we might now hope for greater progress, the
+more so, as the Norwegian coast here runs somewhat to the north-east,
+and we of course, even in a continuous north-west wind, could still
+make, on the starboard tack, some northward progress.
+
+On account of this continuous northerly wind, and the easterly-setting
+Gulf Stream, we came so near the Norwegian coast, that one evening we
+thought we could see it from the top. It was not until we reached the
+latitude of Drontheim that we were able to return to our north-westerly
+course.
+
+The darkness of the nights had in the meantime visibly diminished;
+and at midnight between the 1st and 2nd of July, when the sun left us
+at about a quarter past ten, lamplight on deck, even by the binnacle,
+was unnecessary. We could read the finest print comfortably. As a
+glance at the map will show, we were now in a neighbourhood frequented
+comparatively by few ships, except those going to the northern
+Norwegian harbours or visiting the Arctic region proper. Whilst in the
+North Sea, one or more sail might generally be seen on the horizon,
+or in the distance the smoke of a steamer. Now we found ourselves
+alone upon the broad surface, which to some offers only a picture of
+boundless void and lasting sameness, but in others excites a deep
+feeling of the might and sublimity of boundless Nature.
+
+Animal life, too, now prevailed to a remarkable degree, which is in
+a great measure, at least as far as birds are concerned, connected
+with the neighbourhood of land. The ship was surrounded nearly the
+whole day by the three-toed sea-gull (_Larus tridactylus_, L.) in
+flocks of from twenty to fifty, with the swiftness and lightness of
+wing peculiar to this small gull, following the ship with manifold
+unwearying windings and turnings, spying for prey in the dead-water,
+and then darting like lightning upon some little crab tossed in the
+current; or sitting sociably some short distance from the ship’s side
+upon the smooth or even strongly-heaving water, sunning themselves,
+trimming their plumage, or fishing. They also liked to whirl round
+the mast, accompanying the truck in all its waving to and fro, and
+sometimes settling upon it. If we mounted into the top, the birds were
+not at all shy, but hovered about with fluttering wings, apparently
+standing still, and from time to time shooting nearer to the observer,
+who might almost fancy that he could clasp them easily in his hand,
+thus having a good opportunity of observing this really handsome bird
+at his leisure. The round head, with the knowing dark eyes, turns
+backwards and forwards upon the short neck, the wings move in graceful
+lines, the small black feet are drawn tight under the tail. The whole
+under part of the bird is a pure white, whilst the upper part is bluish
+grey. But what strikes the eye the most is that the tips of the slender
+wings and the fan-shaped tail are jet black. In rather lighter black,
+differing according to the age and time of year, are marks on the head
+and neck, one in particular looking like a collar. In spite of all
+this outward beauty (in which property they are far surpassed by the
+ivory gull) there remains an ugly peculiarity common to this species,
+namely, their ever harsh and grating cry. In fair or foul weather, in
+slow and in swift flight, the sharp “ih, ih, ha, ha,” is ever heard
+without intermission and in every possible cadence. These are the same
+gulls that in northern neighbourhoods flock together in thousands, make
+their nests in the rocks, and thus form the so-called “gull mountains”
+of which Fr. Boie, Faber, Brehm, and other travellers cannot relate
+enough. These creatures are, upon the whole, known to be very sociable
+and gentle, so their cry only expresses contentment and liveliness. Now
+and then, however, our attention would be aroused when those tones were
+quicker, more decided, and fell heavily on the ear. We naturally looked
+round for the cause, and saw three of them flying terror-stricken,
+followed by another bird with darker plumage, longer wings, and a
+quicker, stronger flight. It is the robber gull (_Lestris_); and
+now an odd spectacle is presented to our sight. One of our small gulls
+has just caught a little fish which, prompted by curiosity, had come
+to the surface, and flies hurriedly forward anxious to devour it. His
+plundering dark cousin, not far off, roving apparently purposeless
+above the waves, scarce has time to espy this, when he darts swiftly
+down, catches the flying gull, and sets upon it unmercifully, until
+bursting into this scream of terror, it opens its beak and lets the
+booty fall. The robber having now gained his end, quits the chase,
+and rushes after the falling fish which, with incredible agility, he
+catches half-way. In the next moment we see the bird again quietly
+circling above the waves as if nothing had happened, or sailing slowly
+in the distance, bent upon robbing other gulls of their hard-earned
+meal.
+
+Besides the gulls, we saw in stormy weather a small bird known to all
+sailors as the stormy petrel (_Thalassidroma pelagica_, L.). It
+is almost entirely dark brown, and is chiefly seen in violent stormy
+weather, when it seems to run unwearily on the water, seldom rising
+higher. To old sailors it is an unlucky bird; they believe that its
+appearance denotes storm, putting, as is usually the case, the cause
+for the effect. The old idea, from which they are called “Mother
+Carey’s Chickens,” is at least poetical.
+
+We chased the gulls but little; only once a calm sea rendered it
+possible to secure our booty, and this chance was very nearly the cause
+of a misfortune on board the Germania.
+
+It was the 4th of July about noon. Several gulls had been circling over
+the after part of the ship, followed with longing eyes by the doctor,
+who was far too ready to make a nearer inspection of one of them with
+his knife. Dr. Copeland caught up a gun, and soon one bird lost its
+life, and fell into the water close to the ship’s side. The men hurried
+forward to hook it out. This, however, failed, and the ship glided
+quietly onwards. To let down the boat would have taken too much time,
+as during the storm it had been lashed with several ropes. A sailor
+passing by, without thinking and certainly most rashly, wishing to
+pick up the floating bird, before any one thought or could prevent it,
+jumped dressed as he was into the water, and swam with well practised
+and strong arms towards it. In the meantime, the vessel glided onwards,
+and (as we now noticed) with great speed. This must soon have been
+apparent to our sailor, whose chest would be cramped by the low
+temperature of the water (47½° F.), so that he must soon have realized
+his critical position. He reached the goal, and then in a weak voice
+called for the boat. Meanwhile, Mr. Tramnitz had called together the
+rest of the watch, turned the ship’s head to the wind, and thrown out
+the life-buoy. Quickly two men climbed into the boat. Loosening the
+ropes was not to be thought of; they fell under the heavy gashes of an
+ever-ready knife; it rattled down; another cut or two and it was free,
+and flying under the strong and long drawn strokes. Those were long and
+fearful moments as we stood silently and with bated breath following
+with our eyes the little craft, and for the first time realizing how
+great the distance was.
+
+Would the attempt to save him prove successful? or would this act of
+youthful thoughtlessness be punished? No! we saw the boat reach its
+mark, we saw them rest on their oars, and one lean over; and now the
+drowning man is drawn in alive. Then the gull and the life-buoy had
+to be got in, and they pulled hurriedly back to the vessel. Like a
+drowned poodle the sinner soon stood once more amongst us, receiving as
+a reward a sound lecture from the captain, followed by a good draught
+of brandy. But the doctor took the _corpus delicti_ (the gull) in
+hand. On this occasion we unfortunately lost a basket containing some
+fine flower bulbs, which had been given us by some friendly hand with
+the hope that, if successful, they might cheer our long Arctic winter
+with their blossom, and had been placed in the boat as being a dry airy
+position.
+
+  [Illustration: “KILLER” DOLPHINS.]
+
+In the North Sea we had already seen some spouting dolphins; now they
+often came up close to us. In the beginning of July, they came so
+near, that our zoologist had the great satisfaction of taking an exact
+drawing of the back. It was the species well known to all sailors, the
+“Nordkaper” or “Killer” (_Delphinus orca_, Fabr.), one of the
+largest kind in the whale family, being sometimes twenty-five feet
+long. It is distinguished, and for the same reason easily recognized
+at a great distance, by the small, long, and sharp upright back-fin,
+which has also earned for it the name of “sword fish.” These enormous
+creatures come to the surface to take breath, and mostly move in
+zig-zag windings along the top of the water, so they may be seen from
+three to half-a-dozen times, though only the upper part of their
+shining black bodies. First the snout is to be seen, and from the
+“blow-hole” is forced the breath and spray; then the fins and the
+hinder parts of the back make their appearance. The tail is only to be
+seen when the creature dives under, when it is sometimes straight out
+of the water. The name “Nordkaper” by which our sailors call it, was
+received long ago, when it frequented the North Cape in droves. The
+Americans call it “Killer,” and the Norwegians “Whale-catcher,” from a
+circumstance which for a long time was considered a fable, but is now
+confirmed by the least prejudiced whalers of the present day, namely,
+that they are the whale’s greatest enemies, following and attacking it
+in large droves.
+
+Besides the “Nordkapers,” one day (the 10th of July), we observed
+another kind of dolphin, three or four of which played under our bows.
+They were quite brown, without any upright back-fin, having a thick
+head and steep forehead. It was a strange and fascinating sight to
+watch these boorish, uncouth cetacea of nearly fifteen feet long,
+playing in the water so peaceably and securely and yet so nimbly.
+
+Unfortunately the disturbing hand of man, in the attempt to make use
+of the breech-loader, startled these peaceful creatures. Before we
+were prepared for it shots were heard, and the dolphins hurriedly
+withdrew from the further observation of the “lords of the creation.”
+For the sake of the zoologist and his science, it was to be wished that
+such a creature should be killed and examined. But the Germania was
+wanting both in the apparatus and means for taking it, as well as in
+accommodation for working.
+
+We also saw, though only in the distance, the blowing of some rorquals.
+
+Meanwhile a number of soundings had been taken on the Hansa, which
+gave the following result: 1st of July, in 60° 45′ North lat. and 2°
+4′ 3″ East long., a depth of 65 fathoms, with stony ground, Norwegian
+granite; 7th of July, in 68° 18′ North lat. and 7° 14′ East long., 700
+fathoms, hard sand.
+
+A series of other soundings gave no decided result. The temperature of
+the sea was taken daily.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+
+       CONTINUED VOYAGE OF THE TWO SHIPS UNTIL REACHING ICE.[4]
+                            MIDDLE OF JULY.
+
+   Second meeting with the Hansa.--Neptune and the Arctic
+   christening.--Entrance into the Arctic Sea.--Zoological
+   matters.--Jan Mayen.--Nearing the ice.--Seals.--Separation of
+   the vessels.
+
+
+The 4th of July, Sunday, brought us a fine, clear morning: the wind
+died quite away; the sea, even in the far, far distance, was glossy and
+smooth. The sleeping sails swung to and fro with the gaffs; the gearing
+rattled; the ship swung without answering the helm; in short, it was
+that sort of calm so disagreeable to a sailor, and particularly so to
+us after our three weeks’ voyage. Every eye looked longingly for a
+rising breeze. In the course of the morning it rippled the surface with
+beautiful blue lines here and there, and then dropped again.
+
+The Hansa was far astern, and presently a dark spot appeared on the
+water in the distance. It scarcely moved; but the telescope showed us
+that it must be a boat. Perhaps a post from the Hansa! Now the mainsail
+was set, and then we knew for certain that it was Captain Hegemann’s
+fine whale-boat that was approaching. We lay to, and welcomed heartily
+on board Messrs. Hegemann, Hildebrandt, Buchholz, and Laube. Engaged
+in an improvised hunting party, they were fortunate enough to bag some
+gulls. For the second time we all sat together in the cabin, confiding
+our hopes and plans to each other. Meanwhile, on the eastern horizon,
+there rose a well-known dark line; and soon a light, quick breeze
+filled the sails, and gave our ship steerage way. Slowly she began to
+move, and took a nor’-nor’-westerly course, direct to the island of Jan
+Mayen.
+
+The wind now blew stronger; the Hansa had already reached us, and thus
+a speedy end was put to our meeting. Our friends took leave and were
+soon on board their own ship.
+
+The next day it blew fresh from the E.N.E., so that we nearly always
+made two degrees N. as our day’s work, a highly desirable progress,
+which raised all our hopes afresh. Already, on the evening of the 5th
+of July, at fifty minutes past eleven, we had passed the Arctic circle
+(66° 33′), and that nearly under the meridian of Greenwich (0° 15′
+W.L.).
+
+A violent wind was blowing; and with a speed of nine knots we entered
+the Arctic Ocean, which was to be our quarters for a whole year. The
+Hansa was some miles in advance of us, and was the first to unfurl
+the North German flag; at the same time firing one gun. We followed.
+Conformably to the custom, as on crossing the equator, Neptune came
+on board to welcome us, and wish us success on our voyage; of course
+not without all those who had not yet crossed the Arctic circle having
+to undergo the rather rough shaving and christening customary on such
+occasions. The ceremony closed (as is usual on such occasions) with a
+good glass of wine, to wash away the evil effects of the cold water.
+
+With us, Peter Iversen and Peter Ellinger undertook the parts of
+Neptune and the barber, and carried out with great earnestness the
+soaping and the very mild christening. At the next meal in the cabin we
+were surprised by a poetical composition by Neptune.
+
+On board the Hansa the proceeding was carried out much more
+scrupulously. Neptune came on board with two followers, and addressed
+Captain Hegemann with the question, “Any green hands on board?” At the
+answer, “Yes,” there began a sharp examination of the “green ones,”
+Drs. Buchholz and Laube, as well as the sailors Max Schmidt and Konrad
+Gierke. Afterwards came the christening. Dr. Laube writes thus:--
+
+“We entered into the spirit of the fun willingly, knowing that our
+sailors were decent fellows, and would not carry things too far, even
+had we not entered on the ship’s books with them in Bremen, and become
+seamen. Our carpenter went about the whole day with a sly, laughing
+face, and towards evening had quite lost his usual chattiness. We
+ourselves kept in the cabin, so as not to witness the preparations.
+At midnight, we were called on deck. A gun was fired; and as its
+thunder died away we heard the well-known cry, ‘Ship ahoy!’ Three
+wonderful figures climbed over the bowsprit; Neptune first, in an
+Esquimaux’s dress, with a great white cotton beard, a seven-pronged
+dolphin harpoon for a trident in one hand, and a speaking-trumpet in
+the other. A tarpaulin was spread on the quarter-deck, and a stool
+placed upon it. It looked like a judge’s bench. Here each of us was
+seated with eyes bound, while the masked followers of the northern
+Ruler went through the customary proceedings. I was soaped and shaved;
+god Neptune was most favourable to me; he knows what good cigars are,
+and has great respect for those to whom they belong. Then came the
+christening, which in this case was not applied to the head (as is
+usual), but to the throat and stomach. Neptune put some questions to me
+through his speaking-trumpet, desiring me to answer. I saw his object,
+answered with a short ‘Yes,’ and then closed my lips. The mischievous
+waterfall rattled over me, causing universal merriment. They then
+took the bandage from my eyes, that I might see my handsome face in
+the glass; but instead of a looking-glass, it was the combing of the
+wooden hatchway, which with great gravity was held before my face by
+the barber’s assistant. I was now absolved, and could laugh with the
+others, whilst seeing my comrades obliged to go through the same course
+one after the other.”
+
+Universal grog on board both ships brought the time-honoured and merry
+ceremony to a close.
+
+But with ever-growing impatience did we now long for a nearer
+acquaintance with the ice. As we before mentioned, the favourable wind
+first met us outside the Arctic circle. Later on it blew more faintly,
+though, on the whole, keeping in the good quarter from the east, so
+that on the morning of the 9th of July we came in sight of the island
+of Jan Mayen.
+
+The midnight hours had now grown visibly lighter; even in the cabin
+we no longer wanted a lamp; at twelve o’clock at night we could read
+and write without difficulty. The very first night we reached the
+latitude in which it was possible to be seen, we were allowed to enjoy
+the wonderful sight of the midnight sun. The thick clouds, which the
+whole day had covered the heavens, drew somewhat together towards the
+north just at that time; and over the edge of the endless sea, hovered
+the sun, like a red ball, visible almost in its entire circumference,
+surrounded by gold and purple-violet clouds. But unfortunately this
+majestic spectacle was of short duration; the cloudy curtain closed
+again, and we had to wait many weeks before we again saw the midnight
+sun.
+
+The temperature of the air fell steadily. From the 6th to the 7th
+of July there was a sudden fall, as shown by our table of daily
+temperatures.
+
+This was accompanied, on the 7th of July, by _snow_, and on the
+8th the _fog_ began its rule of terror, from which we suffered,
+except at short intervals, for four weeks, that is, until we landed.[5]
+
+The swarms of birds were countless, and at a glance we could see that
+those frequenting the icy sea were quite different from any other
+sorts. There were the well-known Auk,[6] and other aquatic species of
+various genera.[7] But there was no possibility of exactly knowing
+each kind, as we did not succeed in bringing any down; and only seeing
+them in the distance in their hurried flight and the dim atmosphere,
+they were very difficult to distinguish. They generally flew from two
+to four together; sometimes one would strike out with a short flap of
+the wings, and fly at a uniform height over the smooth water, when,
+according to its uniform custom, it would circle two or three times
+at some distance round the ship, and either settle down once more, or
+totally disappear. Besides these, we frequently saw the grey petrel
+(_Procellaria glacialis_, L.), which until that time had been
+rare. They strike the observer at once by their long, grey, straight
+wings hovering almost motionless over the water. Like all northern
+travellers, we soon learnt to know among the ice the peculiar bird
+called the Mallemock.
+
+With the crossing of the Arctic circle we found ourselves in our own
+broad field of action; for if our chief task was to follow the coast of
+East Greenland as far as possible to the north, our expedition was also
+one of general knowledge, and therefore the exploring of the whole of
+the North Arctic region was incumbent upon us. So that, although still
+far from the ice, regular, and, when possible, searching investigation
+was made, not the ordinary observations on board ship, regarding
+the direction of the wind, barometrical pressure, and so forth, but
+inquiries into subjects relating to the physical geography of the
+sea. The temperature of the surface water, as during the whole of the
+voyage, was taken every two hours, and that of greater depths, ever
+since the 1st of July (61° N.L.), four times every day. In connexion
+with this Drs. Börgen and Copeland began a series of experiments
+relating to the quantity of salt contained in the surface water and in
+the depths. Notice was also taken of the colour of the sea, as well
+as of the wood met with. Soundings were taken every six hours, and
+everything brought up by the apparatus was carefully preserved.
+
+These observations were of no small interest, as we were in that part
+of the somewhat changing boundary where the warm (so called) Gulf
+Stream coming up from the south and the cold Arctic current coming
+down from the north just meet. This Gulf Stream is known not only by
+its relative warmth, but by the greater saltness and deep blue colour
+of its waters. The beautiful blueness of the sea struck us as soon as
+we left the North Sea. But from this time until we reached the ice the
+colours changed continually, and sometimes very quickly, from dirty
+blue, light blue, greenish blue, bluish green, clear and transparent
+green, greyish green, and so on, so that our attempts at representing
+a series of these colours became a failure.[8] Sharp limits between
+green and blue water, such as have been often observed, not only in the
+Atlantic but also in the Arctic Ocean, we never met with.[9] As regards
+temperature, the blue water certainly was the warmest; but even here
+sudden and considerable differences were almost imperceptible.
+
+With our advance towards the north-west the warmth of the water
+gradually decreased. Exactly corresponding to the isotherm for May,
+which we found in 1868, we registered on the 6th of July at noon 42.12°
+Fahr., and the next day, at the same time, it was already two degrees
+lower. On the other hand we first found the temperature at zero, or
+below zero, in the neighbourhood of the ice, whilst in May, 1868, it
+was as low as that at 200 (nautical) miles distant from it. As regards
+the observations made on the true currents,[10] as well as on the
+aræometrical reading of the quantity of salt held in solution in them,
+it is not our province to enter upon their discussion here. Regarding
+the former, however, we soon had lively witnesses in the shape of
+drift-wood, small pieces of which passed us on the evening of the 6th
+of July; and two days later we saw a large knotted tree; but on the
+high sea it was impossible to make ourselves masters of it.
+
+In order to gain more exact information regarding the surface-currents,
+it has long been the custom to throw out a corked bottle containing
+a piece of paper, on which is written the exact time and place of
+immersion. If a seaman sees this bottle in the water, he picks it
+up, noticing the time and place, and forwards the paper to the place
+mentioned. With this view we threw out bottles from time to time.
+
+The soundings, from the period of our leaving the remarkable
+shallowness of the North Sea, showed a tolerably uniform descent in the
+bottom of the sea as far as the island of Jan Mayen, and farther on to
+the borders of the ice. From eighty fathoms it went on to 180 and 270
+(2nd July), 406 fathoms (3rd July), 569 on the 4th, and 1066 fathoms on
+the 7th of July.
+
+Whilst the Physicists were thus making a commencement of their labours,
+and the crew were pretty well occupied with soundings, the Zoologists
+found many opportunities for collecting and observing. From the bird
+world they were compelled now to descend to lower creatures; and if
+unfavourable circumstances did not allow them to use the drag-net
+to bring subjects from the depths of the sea, still much that was
+interesting was to be found on the surface. Dr. Pansch constructed a
+bag-shaped net out of some gauze, and through the circular opening
+passed two long, narrow boards, so that when put into the water, one
+half was under and one above; this net was fastened to the hind part
+of the ship on the leeside, and as we sailed slowly forwards, took in
+every creature lying on the surface. In this manner the calm nights
+of the 7th and 8th brought us a rich booty; there were the _Calanus
+hyperboræus_, small tender creatures with white transparent bodies,
+articulated red-tipped tails, and long, fine, beautiful red feelers,
+with which they jerked themselves forward. Next came a number of small
+yellow red-spotted crabs (_Themisto libellula_, Mandt) with great
+oval-shaped black eyes, which like the rest of its family, as we had
+already seen, lay upon their side and swam along the surface in search
+of food.
+
+The low side and bulwarks of our vessel made it easy, if we saw a
+large creature of any kind, to catch it with a long pole-net. The
+brown-violet fibrous medusæ (_Cyanea capillata_, L.), which
+we had often seen in the North Sea, seemed entirely wanting here.
+Nevertheless, zoological work in the open air was now decidedly
+disagreeable. For if it was tolerably warm in the evening, towards
+morning, particularly when a damp fog and cold wind got up, and the
+warming influence of the evening meal had long since disappeared, it
+was painfully cold; but just the night-time was best for catching. And
+even with spirits and water we could only work when, sailor fashion,
+we constantly beat our arms across our breast. Still more difficult is
+it to skin birds, seek for entozoa and such like, work which cannot
+always be carried on in the cabin, but which makes little progress with
+cold, stiff fingers.
+
+As already mentioned, we sighted the island of Jan Mayen on the 9th
+of July. The Hansa passed it at about one and a half German miles to
+the eastward. Had the weather been clear, we should long since have
+been able to see the highest point of the island, the Beerenberg. The
+atmosphere was, however, heavy and gloomy, and was as little inclined
+to grant the beautiful sight to us as it is to other sailors. Just at
+dawn we caught a glimpse of streaks of glaciers; the knowledge that
+land, and that of so interesting a nature, was so near, caused great
+excitement amongst the scientific part of the community; and it was
+no wonder that, after such long inaction and crossing of our wishes,
+the question of attempting a landing on Jan Mayen was more eagerly
+discussed than ever. But, even if, setting aside the strict letter of
+our instructions, we had consented to this interesting attempt, the
+ever-thickening fog and the windward sea-roll on the eastern side of
+the island would have rendered it impossible; and on the western side
+it would only have been possible with great loss of time. Meanwhile, we
+kept near to land, that we might at least have a view of its wonders
+as long as possible. At last, just before breakfast, our expectations
+seemed likely to be fulfilled; the fog lifted a little, and at some
+miles’ distance we saw a tolerable stretch of broken, rocky and rugged
+coast. It must have been the north-east side of the island, that is,
+the foot of the Beerenberg, dark rocks interspersed with long stripes
+of glacier ice reaching to the water. But the whole was indistinct and
+misty, so that the general appearance had somewhat of a weird look
+about it. All hurried on deck, trying to put the wondrous picture on
+paper; but there was scarcely time for that; the impervious veil of fog
+covered it once more, and that so thick that we had no hope of another
+glimpse.[11] Unsatisfied and disappointed, we eat our breakfast,
+picturing to ourselves how delightful a bright, sunny day must be on
+Jan Mayen. We read the accounts given by previous travellers, and found
+for our consolation that this island had almost always been seen under
+disadvantageous circumstances.
+
+According to a Dutchman of that name who discovered it in the year
+1611, the island of Jan Mayen lies lonely in the middle of the wide,
+deep sea between Norway and Greenland, Iceland and Spitzbergen; and is
+distant about sixty geographical miles from the coast of Greenland.
+It is nine miles in length and one in breadth, and so thoroughly
+mountainous, mostly with rugged rocks reaching down to the sea, that it
+has really only at two spots a flat beach and so-called landing-places.
+The north-east part rises to a height of 6863 feet, in the lofty
+Beerenberg, which has a large crater, and indeed the whole island is of
+volcanic origin. In the year 1732, Burgomaster Anderson, of Hamburg,
+reported a decided eruption from a small side crater, which had been
+observed by a seaman; and in the year 1818, Scoresby and another
+captain saw great pillars of smoke rising from the same place.
+
+Surrounded by floating ice the whole winter through, and often for a
+longer period, Jan Mayen lies in the spring-time and early summer so
+near the edge of the ice-fields, that from 1612 to 1640 it afforded to
+the English and Dutch whale-fishers a comfortable and much sought after
+station for their booty and train-oil preparation. It is said that a
+single ship, in one year, then brought home from Jan Mayen 196,000
+gallons of oil.
+
+Wishing to make an attempt at colonizing, in 1633–34 seven Dutch
+sailors passed the winter here.
+
+“The small community outlived the severity of the winter without much
+danger to their lives, until the scurvy broke out amongst them; and as
+they could not procure the necessary fresh nourishment, the sickness
+made rapid strides. The first died on the 16th of April; and all the
+others shared the same fate one month later. Their diary ended with
+the 30th. When, on the 4th of June, the Dutch fleet appeared off the
+island, they were all found dead in their huts.”[12]
+
+Scoresby visited the island in August, 1817, and gave the first
+reliable account of it. The interest excited by this account led to
+two other visits. Lord Dufferin landed on the north side of Jan Mayen
+in 1856, but what with fog and floating ice, could only stay one hour.
+More good fortune and success attended that in 1861, undertaken by
+Dr. Berna, of Frankfort, and described by Karl Vogt as one of those
+interested in the “Arctic Expedition.” He succeeded in landing at two
+places, and the weather allowed of two days’ interesting investigation;
+then the fog returned, and they were obliged to set sail.
+
+The same envious fog made our landing impossible in 1869, and the
+strong rising sea-breeze and the high sea rendered it unadvisable
+to go too near the land. We tacked, therefore, and sailed in an
+east-south-easterly direction from it, so as to go round the east side
+of the island, and at midnight resume our northerly course. The fog
+was continually getting thicker, so that our two ships could scarcely
+see each other; and in order to keep together at all were obliged to
+use the horn. A fine rain fell at the same time, and it was about 2½
+degrees warmer, though, on the whole, most disagreeable weather. We
+could now thoroughly enjoy the Arctic fog “as pictured in books,”
+and we felt the perfect truth and the full meaning of the excellent
+descriptions given of it.
+
+We thought of the “sea-lungs” of Pytheas, that impenetrable mixture
+encountered beyond Thule, which is neither land, nor sea, nor
+atmosphere; of that bit of Horace,--
+
+    “Quod latus mundi nebula malusque
+    Jupiter urget.”
+
+We thought of the troublous gloominess with which the northern legends
+enveloped the unknown ice region; and indeed began to believe in the
+influence which a long sojourn in such a climate would have upon mind
+and body.
+
+Indeed, there can be nothing more melancholy than this everlasting grey
+veil; even the sea, as far as one can see, is sad and grey. An auk
+or a diver, now and again flying before the ship, is the only thing
+presented to the wandering eye. Occasionally the gloom lightens so
+much, that one can just make out where the sun is; but it is seldom
+so far visible as to afford us an observation for latitude, or the
+sight of a fogbow: but every hope of a change which might rise at
+such a moment was at once destroyed by fresh mist rolling up thicker
+than ever. One glance over the different diaries at this particular
+time will best show the depressing influence of such continual foggy
+weather. As in the North Sea over the constant north wind, so here over
+the new enemy, the everlasting complaint was,--“Fog! thick fog!” And
+if it would stop at that! But now the small vesicles condense and fall
+first like fine spray, and then like a heavy shower, though without
+bringing any relief from the fog. The sails flap, the running-gear
+droops; and, added to this, is a fresh cold breeze, with the ship
+swinging to and fro. At such a time every one appears on deck in the
+excellent oilskin clothes, with high boots and serviceable sou’westers.
+With wide and cautious steps, we walk up and down on the ever wet and
+slippery deck, our eyes, as if open sea lay before us, constantly
+sweeping the horizon and turning doubly disappointed away. The sight
+of the swaying masts and the rustle of the untiring wavelets against
+the ship’s side, at length bring the comfortless impression of all
+surroundings to rest. The mind turns inwards upon itself; and amidst
+all the thoughts of the serious and yet eagerly looked-for future, the
+remembrance of the past and home stand vividly before us. We think of
+the last time we were on land, of that wonderfully beautiful and warm
+summer day at Eutin, with all the brightness of the rose-blossom and
+the song of the nightingale. We see ourselves once more united with our
+loved ones at home, and, flying from the heat of the day, wandering in
+the high arched forest, or in familiar conversation enjoying the peace
+and quiet of the garden. We see the stars twinkling in the heavens,
+and the dark red moon rise over the distant woods--when a heavy wave
+strikes us, sending the ship on to its side. We are pitched heavily
+against the boat, the cold water splashes in our faces, and rushes in
+a torrent over the deck and over our feet. The beautiful dream of the
+pleasant summer is over, and the cold reality of an Arctic, foggy day
+resumes its sway. With perhaps an unheard sigh, but in every case a
+smiling face, we shake off the water and continue our walk. We know
+that very soon we shall have much greater trials to bear.
+
+Beyond the regular aræometrical readings of the water, and the constant
+zoological work, there was little to gain outside in the way of
+knowledge. We therefore tried to make it as comfortable as possible
+below, which was certainly not easy, for even here the wet penetrates
+and is brought down with boots and clothes; so that the air is often
+heavy and damp. With the near prospect of the all-absorbing work on
+the ice and also on land before us, we once more looked up all our
+things,--instruments, and so on,--and put them in order, filling up
+the rest of the time with reading, studying, and playing. We studied
+Scoresby’s works, read the Swedish Expedition, or Lindeman’s “Arctic
+Fisheries of the German Sea-port Towns,” or turned over the leaves
+of Kane’s and Parry’s standard works. When comfortably seated at the
+chess-board, or at a rubber of whist, or engaged in a sharp argument,
+we now began to feel quite at home. We were accustomed to the cabin,
+and had learnt to know each other better. We found that it was not so
+difficult to live in such a confined space in peace and quietness,
+if we only to some extent considered each other and learned to take
+quietly such disagreeables as would naturally turn up.
+
+And they soon did turn up. Our store of water had already greatly
+decreased, and we were obliged to submit to great restrictions. We
+could only have one glassful daily to wash in, but as compensation we
+found on deck a fresh-drawn bucket of salt water. As it had become
+somewhat muddy in the tanks, our filter stood us in good stead. The
+rye-bread had already disappeared on the 8th of July, but we still had
+a store of potatoes.
+
+Since the midnight of the 9th to the 10th of July, we had sailed with
+a fresh easterly breeze direct for the ice, and early in the morning
+had already lost sight of the Hansa; the fog-horn no longer found
+an echo. Presently with the wind from the distance there rolled the
+thunder of a cannon-shot; a second followed, and we joyfully returned
+the greeting of the sister-ship. At noon we fired again, and received
+no answer; we were for the time separated from the Hansa. The following
+five days brought no change in the weather; day after day passed with
+the interesting variations of--fog, thicker fog, thickest fog. The
+temperature was about 36° Fahr.; only once rose to 39½°, and fell to
+33.80°. The only comfort was that no obstacle stopped our progress, as
+on the open sea the ship can find her way with the help of the compass
+in the darkest night as easily as in broad daylight. A collision was
+not to be feared here, so we had no feeling of insecurity, as one has
+in a thick fog near land.
+
+The bird world did not change much; the stormy petrel, however,
+preponderated. On the other hand, we saw far more frequently a
+creature peculiar to the Arctic regions, the Greenland seal (_Phoca
+Grönlandica_, Müll.). They stretched their black, flat heads out of
+the water with great curiosity, but immediately disappeared, setting at
+defiance every attempt to reach them with the deadly shot.
+
+The appearance of these seals reminded us that we were now in the
+neighbourhood of the seal-catchers, that is, in that part of the
+northern icy sea where, from the end of March to the end of April, the
+seals come in thousands to the smooth floating ice to cast their young
+ones. These “seal-coasts” change their position somewhat every year,
+and range between 68° and 74° N. Lat. and from 2° to 16° W. Long. It is
+a highly interesting sight to see the seals assembled from all quarters
+at this time. It is said that they not only come from the coasts of
+Spitzbergen and Greenland, but even swim in flocks from Nova Zembla.
+The whitish-coloured young stay on the ice the first few days, and are
+then killed with clubs by the parties of seal-hunters. The skin with
+its underlying fat is brought on board. The skin and fat of a young
+seal are worth from 7_s._ 6_d._ to 9_s._; besides which they catch many
+old seals. The number caught by a single Bremen ship now sometimes
+amounts to from 8 to 10,000 seals; and one may form some idea of the
+war of destruction waged against these harmless creatures by man, when
+we hear that of European ships in 1868, five German, five Danish,
+fifteen Norwegian, and twenty-two British, which were in company
+in West Greenland, obtained 237,000. On the “Jan Mayen ice” besides
+the Greenland seal there is another kind found, called the crested
+seal (_Cystophora cristata_, Nilss.), seldom the bearded seal (_Phoca
+barbata_, Müll.) only.
+
+The expected meeting with the ice necessitated a peculiar provision
+on the ship, the “crow’s-nest,” so as to have a clear and commanding
+prospect over the labyrinth of flakes and floes, and to enable us to
+steer through all, and when possible find the best road, as the range
+of sight over the water from the deck was no longer sufficient. The
+commander, therefore, has to look for the highest possible steady
+stand-point, and this is easily found in the “top” of the masts, to
+which the shrouds give easy access. A long sojourn in this airy region
+is not very agreeable at any time; one must be careful to protect
+the body somewhat against the wind, and this object is attained by
+a suitably formed barrel. A good telescope is hung constantly up
+here, and a little straw is placed at the bottom. This necessary
+“crow’s-nest,” already well known from Scoresby’s and the late Swedish
+expeditions, was on the 12th, with much merriment and many good and
+bad jokes called forth by its peculiar appellation, hoisted up the
+mainmast, and fastened by the carpenter to the crosstrees, between the
+top and the top-shrouds.
+
+The view attained by this means at a height of thirty-eight feet, gave
+us the survey over a circle the radius of which was seven and a quarter
+nautical miles.
+
+About eleven at night in the thick fog an unusually white spot was
+seen, and this we discovered to be the first piece of ice. At the so
+long looked-for announcement of “Ice!” every one was on deck, and
+hurrying to the fore. Every eye rested with interest on the small
+rocking scrap which was at the most quite an isolated, far-washed
+piece. With intense attention and impatience, during the night and
+following day (the 13th), the sailors were to be seen on the watch, and
+from time to time the cap of one of the inmates of the cabin diving
+into the thick fog; but gaily as we advanced, no ice appeared!
+
+On the 14th, there was a calm the whole day, so we went about in
+the boat fishing up the drift-wood, hunting the gulls and sketching
+them. Sometimes it brightened, and we could see a little farther; but
+still no trace of the Hansa. But we had another intimation of the
+nearness of the ice. We could see in the west or north-west over the
+horizon, a white or yellowish glistening, which must spring from the
+ice, and which is known as the “Ice-sky,” yet essentially differing
+from the “Ice-blink.” Besides this, we saw the ivory gull (_Larus
+eburneus_), a bird never found far from the ice.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER III.
+
+           TO THE SEPARATION OF THE SHIPS ON THE 20TH JULY.
+
+   The ice in the Arctic Ocean, particularly off East
+   Greenland.--The border of the ice reached on the 15th of
+   July.--Further voyage of the Germania.--Position and nature of
+   the ice.--Arctic birds.--Meeting of the vessels once more.
+
+
+The Polar circle is termed the boundary of the Arctic or Northern Icy
+Sea. For that term there is a physical reason, as at every spot within
+this circle the sun does not rise in winter for a certain number of
+days together, and its influence being thus so circumscribed, the
+“everlasting” ice is enabled to form. But the Polar circle is the
+boundary also in a geographical point of view, as it cuts directly
+through Behring’s Straits, and the narrowest part of Davis’s Straits,
+besides stretching over both the old and the new worlds, so that the
+whole of the enclosed (so-called) Polar basin is contained within it.
+This has but one broad approach, and that lies between Scandinavia and
+Greenland. Here the Polar circle is least satisfactory as a boundary;
+for here, as in every case in which the shackles of art are imposed
+upon nature, the arbitrary line is overstepped by the irregularities
+of nature, and nowhere more so than in the present case. From the west
+coast of Norway to far beyond the North Cape rush the waves of the
+Atlantic, which are never covered with ice; while on the east coast of
+Greenland, down to its most southerly point, presses from one year’s
+end to another a powerful mass of heavy ice. The boundary of the icy
+sea (as a sea covered with ice) may now upon the whole be settled by a
+line drawn from Cape Farewell to Iceland, from thence to Spitzbergen,
+and lastly to Nova Zembla. The cause of this appearance lies really
+in the existence of two important sea-currents. From the coast of
+Norway up to Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla stretches the north-easterly
+branch of the Gulf Stream, driving back all floating ice, and from the
+comparative warmth of its waters conducing to the melting of the same
+all along the ice boundary.
+
+On the other hand, on the east coast of Greenland runs the Polar
+current in a south-westerly direction to a great distance, carrying
+with it the heavy ice formed in the extreme north, and picking up on
+its way all the younger ice frozen during the winter; while, from
+the coldness of its waters, it prevents the melting of the same in
+a remarkable degree. Thus it is explained how from Davis’ Straits
+also must flow towards the south just such another cold, ice-burdened
+stream, and how on the voyage from Germany to New York are often seen
+one or more drifting pieces of ice, or even icebergs. This Greenland
+ice-current forms the main outlet for the removal of the Polar ice, and
+we may very reasonably liken it to a floating glacier whose farthest
+domain is the Polar basin.
+
+Upon the nature of the ice in this Polar current, the following
+preliminary remarks may throw some light. At the beginning of the
+current, in the same latitude as Spitzbergen, and much nearer to the
+coast, as far down as Iceland, the largest fields of ice are to be
+found; tracts of enormous extent and sometimes more than fifty feet
+in thickness. Between these, and originating from them in the course
+of time, by their breaking up, are smaller fields called ice-floes;
+and these, increased by thawing, by the surrounding driving and
+pressing, as well as by the waves, break up in small pieces, the real
+hummocks which prevail at the eastern boundary of the current, at the
+“ice-line,” as well as at the most southerly end. As a last remains of
+the disturbing process, huge hummocks float about, or cover the broken
+ice or the wide expanse of sea with small brashes. Real icebergs seem
+almost peculiar to the southern part of the coasts; such an iceberg is
+not formed in the sea, but is a broken piece of glacier moving with its
+lower part in the sea, and from which at different times large pieces
+have been broken off by the pressure of the water, and carried onward
+by the current.
+
+The breadth of this ice-current, and also the position of the ice-line
+is, as may be imagined, very different at different times of the year.
+Whilst in spring-time it runs about the middle of Iceland past Jan
+Mayen to the southern point of Spitzbergen, in summer it retreats
+nearer to the coast, and stretches somewhat in the direction of the
+west-end of Iceland to the north of Spitzbergen. Some pieces of ice,
+under peculiar circumstances, naturally float very far from this
+boundary towards the south-east; sometimes even reaching the Faroes.
+
+But even at corresponding times of the year, the ice-line may occupy
+very different positions; much depending upon the compactness of the
+labyrinth of fields, floes, and drifts, and also of the prevailing
+winds.
+
+As all ice rises out of the water, and from its irregular form offers
+to the wind an easy object of attack, so it is often drawn from the
+course of the water-current by a strong air-current, and either hurried
+onward or retarded in its progress. An easterly and south-easterly
+wind must drive the ice westward, and press the masses closer than
+ever; whilst a westerly and north-westerly wind drives the icy dominion
+farther eastward, dividing the masses, and thereby rendering the
+ice-stream more navigable.
+
+This ice-current, or ice-zone, in the outer part of which the
+whale-fishers mostly catch their prey, was what we were now about to
+sail across. That this task was certainly not so easy and simple as
+many think who have not seen for themselves, we knew from experience
+in the yacht “Greenland” in 1868. This time our steam power gave us
+greater hope. If we could only reach the vicinity of land we thought
+that in the much-talked-of “Land-water” we should at least be able to
+move with ease, and thereby obtain good results.
+
+On the 15th of July we reached the ice-line. After a foggy day a light
+southerly breeze got up, the sails filled, the ship answered the helm
+once more, and we moved in a north-westerly course between small floes
+and brashes. A practised ear might now notice a peculiar distant roar,
+which seemed to come nearer by degrees. It was the sea surging against
+the still hidden ice. However unwelcome and equivocal this surging
+might sound to the ears of sailors far from any harbour (and it has
+a wonderfully paralyzing effect as one approaches), to-day it was
+listened to with unmistakable pleasure. The object of our longing is
+then at last reached, and if the ice should prove a blockade to us, we
+could at least remain comfortably in the Germania in its neighbourhood
+to inspect it.
+
+Nearer and nearer comes the rushing noise. Every man is on deck; when,
+as with the touch of a magic wand, the mist divides, and a few hundred
+yards before us lies the ice, in long lines like a deep indented rocky
+coast, with walls glittering blue in the sun, and the foam of the waves
+mounting high, with the top covered with blinding white snow. The eyes
+of all rested with amazement on this grand panorama: it was a glorious
+but a serious moment, stirred as we were by new thoughts and feelings,
+by hopes and doubts, by bold and far-reaching expectations.
+
+The mist closed again almost immediately; but this short moment and a
+glimpse from the crow’s-nest sufficed to show us the absolute thickness
+of the masses of ice. Here, even had it been our intention, we could
+never have broken through, and if any of us had formed a mistaken idea
+of ice-navigation, this must prove to the most inexperienced that such
+an obstacle could neither be overcome by the most powerful ironclad
+ship, nor by gunpowder. Our duty bade us first seek the Hansa in 75°
+N.L.; but, besides the fact that an easterly wind had been blowing for
+some days, making it anything but a favourable moment for forcing the
+icy range, it became necessary to wait another opportunity for making
+an energetic attempt.
+
+The spot where the Germania struck the ice was in 74° 47′ N. Lat., and
+11° 50′ W. Long., and the edge stretched almost due north and south.
+The Hansa reached the ice-line the same day in 74° 57′ N. Lat., and
+9° 41′ W. Long. The log-book of the Germania says, “Heard the rushing
+of the water against the ice, but unfortunately could see nothing on
+account of the fog. Temperature of the sea’s surface 32° Fahr., a
+sure sign that we were near the ice; tacked therefore, and ran with
+a south-westerly wind some miles to the north-west, until the floes
+became so dense that we were obliged to turn. Steered in the fog along
+the ice northward. At four in the afternoon a point was passed, from
+which the line seemed to stretch more westward. Accordingly we sailed
+in that direction, and about seven came again to compact ice, which
+obliged us to turn and lie to. The fog was now so dense that we could
+only make out the pieces nearest to us. To judge by the breakers, the
+ice here stretched again to the north. On the morning of the 16th of
+July, the atmosphere lightened a little; when we set all sail and
+made for the ice, which was soon in sight. Towards the north and
+north-north-east lay a long chain of closely packed pieces; to the west
+and north-west opened a large bay, into which we sailed, that we might
+inspect nearer the position of the ice. By eleven we reached what was
+to all appearance the end of this bay, namely, a chain of drift ice,
+behind which, to westward, some open water showed itself, surrounded
+with ice. As it was not our intention to make any serious attempt to
+advance until we fell in with the Hansa, once more we lay to, in order
+to wait for clearer weather.” The first excitement and restlessness had
+by this time subsided, and we could observe surrounding nature more
+at our leisure. When the mist shifted a little, the view from the
+crow’s-nest was very beautiful; first the icy boundary, and then behind
+the endless labyrinth of floes. One was also able exactly to trace how
+the light and dark parts of the clouds lying over the horizon, as well
+as the light and dark stripes in them, reflected a true picture of the
+ice on the sea, and to study attentively this important appearance
+known as the “Ice and water sky.”
+
+The chase brought us a new bird to-day, a handsome black guillemot
+(_Uria grylle_, L.), with its greenish shining plumage; the white
+band on its wings, and the red beak and wings looked wonderfully
+pretty. Our interest was, however, more aroused by a young crested
+seal which was killed in the night (_Cystophora cristata_),
+with shining black back, and whitish yellow belly. Of the peculiar
+blistery formation on the nose, from which they take their name, and
+which characterizes the grown-up male, there was yet no sign: but the
+creature was unmistakable from the form of its head; the well-defined
+snout of the common seals had entirely disappeared; but the strongest
+zoological mark lay in the teeth. We filled a wine-barrel half full of
+its fat, and the rest fell into the hands of the zoologist.
+
+On the 17th we cruised about in the thick fog with a south-westerly
+breeze. We had no sooner tacked than we came upon ice, and were obliged
+to tack once more. It seemed as if we lay in a bay, surrounded by
+floating ice. At the same time many small loose floes were drifting
+around us, and were covered on the surface with the decomposing ice
+like white snow. We took up some shovelsful to melt, with a view to
+renewing our store of water. The mischievous fog played us many a trick
+in our tacking backwards and forwards. It is almost incredible how
+much larger the ice-floes appear in the fog. We seem, for instance,
+to be driving at a hill, forty-five to fifty feet high; and when we
+arrive there, it is a small floe with a hummock of about ten feet! This
+delusion we had subsequently often to experience, though at first it
+afforded us great ground for amusement. The ice had in the thick fog
+something altogether spectral and gloomy in appearance; but as to real
+danger to the ship in this floating ice, where there are no icebergs,
+there is none, except in a heavy sea, with storms or calm. Towards
+evening the ice pressed closer and closer around, so that to prevent
+ourselves being enclosed, we had to keep more eastward. At two in the
+morning we broke through the current, that is the outer chain of floes,
+and saw at once by the windward roll that we were once more in the open
+sea, where we had to lie by in expectation of better weather.
+
+The floes lay so thick at the border, that with the faint breeze the
+ship could not get through, and for the first time we had to employ the
+long ice-hooks to push aside those lying directly under our bow, or
+when very large, to work the ship round them. It was a most agreeable
+night; and as it was the first time that the ship, in the true sense
+of the word, had really come in contact with the ice, all on deck
+willingly took a hand in the work and made it a pleasure to get rid of
+the obstinate companions that impeded the progress of our Germania.
+Here we had the best opportunity of studying the configuration of
+the floes somewhat more nearly. They were mostly flat, and of the
+most varied form. We could see at once, that warmth, air, sun, and
+wave-friction had been at work upon them for some time past. From the
+rushing of the water the edges were rounded and hollowed; they ranged
+from four to twelve inches out of the water, whilst the mass under the
+water was about four times as great. On the surface, as we have already
+mentioned, they were covered with the melting ice like snow some inches
+high; and on the larger ones small pools of water were found, which
+generally make their appearance about the beginning of July, and about
+the beginning of August are again covered with a crust of ice. Remove
+the snow and we come once more to the glistening blue ice. Between the
+floes are hummocks, miniature mountains so to speak, which rise in
+various forms, now elegant, now bold, and from the crevices and shaded
+plains shed the most beautiful blue light. This blue changes sometimes
+to a green; indeed, one is often surprised to see a most lovely emerald
+green. Taking also into consideration that this almost always quiet
+water reflects the clearest pictures, one can imagine how great a
+charm this ice scenery must have for a novice. But it is not only the
+beautiful and majestic which has such an effect, but all sorts of
+fantastic shapes which delight the beholder by their wonderful variety.
+For instance, the small or large ice-blocks, from melting and the
+washing of the water, frequently assume the most peculiar forms. Here
+rides a stately swan, there an eagle spreads its mighty wings; here a
+staring seal stretches its head out of the water, and there stands an
+elegant marble table.
+
+At home, when wishing to picture such things out of the clouds, or
+the ice-trees on the windows, one must exercise a certain amount
+of imagination; here they are forced upon the least enthusiastic
+observer, and we could not help giving our unqualified assent to
+Scoresby’s description, which until then we had thought a little
+exaggerated. “Arctic birds” (so it runs in the Hansa’s Journal at
+this time) “such as the stormy petrel, gulls, robber-gulls, auks,
+and puffins surrounded the ship. For want of something else to do,
+we caught a number of them by angling, and then gave them their
+liberty after fastening a small piece of metal to them by a silken
+band with the name Hansa and the latitude (73° N.) engraved upon it.
+_Procellaria glacialis_ were swimming like ducks in our wake, and
+biting one another with loud chattering for the pieces of bacon thrown
+to them almost under the stern.”
+
+On the morning of the 18th, the atmosphere brightened with a light
+southerly wind; and for the first time since we left Jan Mayen, on
+the 9th of July, it was bright and clear. We now saw that we were in
+a large ice bay, opening towards the south-east. It was a wonderfully
+beautiful (one might almost say a festive) Sunday morning. The eye
+refreshed itself with the deep blue of the softly rippling and
+lightly moving sea, and rested quietly upon the wide semicircle of
+the glittering ice-bank. The sun once more sent a friendly beam from
+the clear sky, and seemed to show us that even here he could provide
+what we had so long needed--warmth and dryness. With what pleasure we
+enjoyed those morning hours, and drew in the clear fresh air! How we
+once more learned to realize what sun and sunshine are to mankind!
+But, wonderful to relate, with all this, the recollections of our
+own country receded more and more. We stood and felt that we were
+at the entrance of a new world, whose whole enchantment had thus
+burst upon us. At first, there was an imperceptible struggle with
+the mighty powers of nature; but now we were thoroughly prepared for
+anything that might turn up, and looked forward with impatience to
+our advancing westward. One after the other mounted to the topmast or
+the “crow’s-nest,” and gazed out upon the masses of ice: we could not
+satiate ourselves with the panorama. A way for the Germania must and
+should be found.
+
+But there was another and more important object which the sharpest eyes
+could not succeed in finding, our lost sister-ship, the Hansa, which we
+had not seen since leaving Jan Mayen. It was impossible that she could
+be far away, for we were quite near the appointed place of rendezvous,
+75° N.L., and we must in any case find her now before the fog should
+surround us once more. The prize of a bottle of wine was therefore
+set upon the discovery of the Hansa, though we scarcely required this
+incitement, so keen and so deep was our interest in the fate of our
+beloved comrades.
+
+Soon after breakfast, to the great joy of all, a sail was discovered
+from the topmast far away in the ice in E.N.E. It was a schooner, and
+as the whale-fishers do not use such craft, it must be the Hansa, which
+by a seaman’s eye was soon verified by her peculiar rig. The Hansa
+was under full sail; certainly she must have already seen us, and was
+trying her best to reach us through the apparently thick ice which
+surrounded her. We ourselves hoped that we should be able at once to
+advance farther westward together; so the boiler was heated without
+delay, and everything prepared for getting up steam, so as to unite the
+two vessels before the fog returned. Meanwhile, it was four o’clock in
+the afternoon ere we could move, as, in fitting the screw, something
+had been overlooked, which took us some hours to rectify. The Hansa had
+in the meantime worked herself some miles nearer to us, and now lay in
+the floating ice. The weather was beautiful and clear, and there was
+a dead calm; so that with the speed of 5¼ knots, which we made with
+a 50lb. pressure, we reached our friends at about eight o’clock. The
+ice-spikes which encircled our bay to the north-east, stretching far to
+the east, and towards which we were driving, resolved themselves as we
+approached into small, and very small, brashes, between which the ship
+easily made her way or forced it, though not without some gratings and
+slight working of the steam. Our farther advance was unimpeded. The
+ice-strewn sea now presented a peculiarly interesting spectacle. It had
+assumed by the reflection of the sky, which had been heavily-clouded
+for some hours, an almost black hue, in strong contrast with the colour
+of the ice, whilst the north-westerly horizon shone with the brightest
+yellow tints. At eight we were near the Hansa; both ships hoisted their
+flags. The Hansa gave expression to her joy by firing her guns; but we,
+not being prepared, had to return the salute with our fowling-pieces.
+Greetings re-echoed from one side to the other, as we went round the
+Hansa, and universal joy reigned on board both ships.
+
+We then took her in tow, and steered back the same way by which we had
+come, until some slight disorder in the machinery obliged us to stop,
+when both ships were again put under sail.
+
+Meanwhile Captain Hegemann, Dr. Buchholz, and Dr. Laube had come on
+board, and the captains consulted together regarding the next steps to
+be taken. The Hansa had, like ourselves, been several days in the ice.
+Indeed, a glance at the logs showed that since their separation the
+two vessels had never been far from one another, that they had sailed
+in the same course to the ice, and had also sighted it the same day,
+and that nothing but continued fog had prevented us from sighting each
+other sooner. Captain Hegemann reported that farther north a larger
+bay penetrated to the westward. We, however, preferred trying the
+southerly one. We further agreed, conformably with our instructions,
+that in case of a separation among the ice, the next place of meeting
+should be Sabine Island, as it was plainly loss of time to return to
+74½° N.L., to the line of heavy ice, if we had each found an opening;
+besides which, the attempt ought not to be given up before the middle
+of September, and we hoped to get through much sooner, as the position
+of the ice, in comparison with that of 1868, seemed more favourable.
+
+Meanwhile, the gentlemen sat in the cabin over their wine, exchanging
+the experiences and results of the last few days. The zoologists, it
+is true, were the only men who were particularly satisfied, as both in
+the higher and lower classes of animals they had already an interesting
+collection. Of birds there were several “Mallemucke” shot and properly
+prepared; also one of the robber-gulls with the two peculiar elongated
+middle tail feathers (_Lestris crepidata_, Brehm). Several
+seals (_Phoca Greenlandica_, L.) had also fallen a sacrifice
+to science. But the lower animals had yielded the richest harvest,
+and besides different species of _Calanus_, _Lysianassa_,
+_Gammarus_, and so forth, several specimens of the beautiful
+_Beroë_ had been obtained. Pity that these wonderful creatures,
+with transparent cucumber-shaped bodies, long rosy-red tentacles, and
+their eight rows of glittering, many-coloured leaf-like processes, with
+which they move slowly forward, cannot be preserved in their original
+beauty.
+
+But in other respects also we had not been altogether inactive. The
+soundings--this difficult and time-consuming work--had here on the
+ice boundary shown an important deepening of the bottom of the sea;
+whilst on the 14th we had touched ground at 930 fathoms, on the 15th we
+could no longer do so with 1230 fathoms. Here the unsettled state of
+the weather prevented us from finishing this work with satisfaction to
+ourselves.
+
+The mean temperature of these four days was 35° Fahr. It did not rise
+above 40°, and once, early on the 16th, sank to below 32°. The water on
+the surface was of much the same temperature; it oscillated between 34°
+and 33½°. The colour of the water was mostly clear blue.
+
+In the exchange of such observations and merry and free conversation,
+it was now midnight. At this time we were obliged to stop, as the
+axle-bed was heated and required cooling. A rising fog and a coming
+breeze decided us; so we gave up steam entirely, and let the two ships
+separate once more and proceed under sail.
+
+Full of joy and confident hope for the future, we shook hands at
+parting, and the gentlemen from the Hansa returned to their ship.
+In sisterly harmony the two vessels sailed along, and many a joyous
+greeting and joke resounded from the one to the other.
+
+Who on this evening would have thought that this was the last time we
+should be together? that we should never again see our sister-ship,
+and our comrades only after fourteen months’ time, and then so
+wonderfully preserved from drowning? Our happy feelings did not allow
+such unwholesome thoughts to arise.
+
+Our present object was now to follow the ice boundary farther
+southward, at the same time looking for an opening by which we might
+push on to the west. In tacking in contrary winds, we came against
+several sharp prominences of the thick ice-line, which here stretched
+in a west-south-westerly direction.
+
+On the afternoon of the 19th of July the breeze freshened; we made good
+way, and as much open water was before us, we soon noticed the now
+unusual swell. The weather was tolerable, the fog came and went, so
+that we kept the Hansa mostly in sight.
+
+This day brought us something new. The first white bear was seen, and
+that swimming, and for the first time an Arctic dish appeared on our
+table. At breakfast the cook astonished us with a very delicate and
+tender seal liver, and in the evening a very savoury stew of the flesh;
+we were glad to get a little fresh meat, and soon lost the excusable
+repugnance to the “oily” seal.
+
+We sailed farther along the ice-line towards the south-west.
+
+On the night of the 19th and 20th we fell in with ice, seemingly a
+part of the closely-packed floes driven from the great mass. The swell
+had entirely disappeared, and we moved amongst loose floating ice to
+the south-west. It was mostly thick fog at night, though it cleared
+somewhat about eight in the morning. The wind was S.S.W. In the
+south-west we still found compact floating ice, and at eleven turned
+again to westward. The Hansa was a few miles to windward of us; and
+as both captains wished to consult together once more, and, if the
+weather allowed, to take coals on board the Germania, the approach
+signal was hoisted. The Hansa misunderstood this,[13] set more sail,
+and disappeared in the now thickly-rising fog before we could succeed
+in following her. Thus a fatal misunderstanding separated the two
+ships, and that for ever. We will now leave the Germania, under Captain
+Koldewey’s command, to her further course, and hear Captain Hegemann
+and his companions’ report as to how the Hansa fared.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+
+         FURTHER VOYAGE OF THE HANSA UNTIL HER BLOCKADE IN THE
+          COAST ICE OF EAST GREENLAND. 20TH JULY TO 7TH SEPT.
+
+   Final separation of both ships.--The Germania’s signal
+   misunderstood by the Hansa.--The Hansa photographed in the
+   ice.--Snow blindness.--Difficulties of making way through
+   the ice.--Animal life.--The rocky coast of Greenland visible
+   for the first time.--The Hansa steers once more out of the
+   ice.--Two ships in sight to seaward.--The Hansa’s struggle
+   with the ice.--Fall of snow on the 3rd of August.--Southerly
+   currents.--Second attempt of the Hansa to reach Sabine
+   Island.--The Hansa sails to the north.--Countless seals.--Steer
+   to the north-west.--Circumstances particularly unfavourable
+   to further progress.--By towing the ship open water at last
+   reached.--Hemmed in once more.--Reverses, trouble, and dangers,
+   until the blocking up of the Hansa.--Changeable frame of mind
+   on board.--Soundings.--Trial with the dredge.--Journey in the
+   boat in the direction of land.--Sabine and Pendulum Islands in
+   sight.--Meal on the ice.--The Captain’s birthday.--Poverty of
+   animal life on the sea near the coast.--Hunting.
+
+
+Morning of the 20th, strong W.S.W. wind blowing. At eight o’clock spoke
+the Germania. Captain Koldewey signalled to keep farther from the ice
+on account of bad weather. We therefore steered eastward for some
+time, but found that, instead of getting looser, the ice had become
+more dense; we therefore lay close hauled on the port tack, and at ten
+o’clock were obliged to steer to N.W. Meanwhile, the water improved,
+and after sailing through a stream of floating ice, we saw open
+water in a westerly direction. So for westward! Captain Koldewey
+gave us a signal, which, through the hazy weather, we unfortunately
+misunderstood. We thought we read, “Long stay a-peak,” which Captain
+Hegemann interpreted that the ship should sail as far westward as
+possible. The signal, however, really meant, “Come within hail.” The
+misunderstanding was fatal; the Hansa pushed on to westward, lost sight
+of the Germania on the 20th of July, and never saw her again.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 81._
+
+  BLOCKS OF ICE WITH SEALS.]
+
+It is, however, tolerably certain, and it is also confirmed by both
+captains’ statements, that, on account of the Arctic weather, it would
+have been very, very difficult for the two ships to have remained
+together, and it would have made landing doubly difficult. And in the
+course of this account, it will be seen that the Hansa on her side of
+the coast could have reached another point, had she not been prevented
+by the letter of her instructions.
+
+Before noon on the 21st of July, as we lay quietly in the pack, Mr.
+Hildebrandt, who had brought his photographic apparatus on the ice,
+succeeded in taking a good photograph of the Hansa. The dazzling
+snow in the sunshine produced snow-blindness for the first time in
+one of the sailors, Philip Heine, and snow spectacles were at once
+distributed. Seals and narwhals were seen near the ship, some of which
+we killed at first. An attempt to draw out the ice-bears by a fire lit
+on a block of ice, and fed with seal-blubber, failed. Nevertheless, our
+mid-day table was enriched with seal-meat, regarding the palatableness
+of which opinions differed. The continually falling fog enveloped
+everything, shrouds, masts, rigging, with a thick crust of ice, so that
+some one had to be sent up to beat it down; and pieces were constantly
+falling, covering the deck with broken ice. With great trouble the
+ship moved slowly forwards, sometimes towed and pushed by the men,
+sometimes sailing through a little water. Nevertheless, we were
+quite aware that the wind and currents were driving us far from our
+destination towards the south, and indeed, the leeway amounted in seven
+days (from the 21st to the 28th July) to about seventy-two nautical
+miles. For awhile we had comparatively low temperature, on the 24th
+July, for example, 31° Fahr.
+
+  [Illustration: CAPE BROER RUYS.]
+
+Of birds, the _Lestris_ and _Procellaria_ were mostly seen,
+and the ivory gull daily. Of Radiata, Dr. Buchholz mentions a beautiful
+ribbed Medusa, with vermilion ribs and fringes.
+
+On the 28th of July, we found ourselves in 72° 56′ N.L. and 16° 54′
+W.L. On that day we caught sight of the dark, rocky coast of East
+Greenland for the first time, from Cape Broer Ruys to Cape James.
+
+  [Illustration: CAPE JAMES.]
+
+Dr. Laube remarks:--“I know now what is meant by making an expedition
+to the North Pole, and what weighty difficulties lie between East
+Greenland and Spitzbergen. Scoresby found it easier; he broke through
+to the coast just where he found a good place: and we shall evidently
+have to proceed in the same manner, for it does not seem difficult to
+reach the Liverpool coast; Clavering and Sabine, also, easily found an
+opportunity of getting to Pendulum Island; but it is difficult, indeed
+almost impracticable, for us to land at that place. The decision is
+easier on the map than in the Arctic Sea, as circumstances there arise
+which cannot be anticipated.” As we could no longer continue the same
+course, there remained nothing for us but to act up to the letter of
+our instructions, and steer once more in an easterly direction out of
+the ice; and having once reached the edge, begin afresh. On the 29th
+and 30th of July, we sighted two vessels, tacking with a north-east
+wind, about twelve sea miles distant. As we afterwards learned, one
+was the steamer Bienenkorb, Captain Hagens, from the Weser, which,
+on the 29th of July, farther northwards, spoke with the (to us)
+still invisible Germania; and on her return to Bremen on the 2nd of
+September, reported thus:--“Spoke the Germania on the 29th of July,
+in about 73° 2′ N.L. and 15° 50′ W.L.; she was steering northwards
+along the border of the ice to rejoin the Hansa. The Bienenkorb took
+a south-westerly course along the ice, and about noon, in 72° 38′ N.L.
+saw the Hansa beset about eight miles within the pack.”
+
+Blocked in we were not really yet, though nearing the coast at once was
+not to be thought of, on account of the compactness of the floes. On
+the 31st of July, the vessels had disappeared. The following day, the
+1st of August, they appeared once more, though possibly only in the way
+caused by refraction. The Hansa struggled heavily through the ice. At
+one o’clock in the afternoon (says the captain’s log-book) we sailed
+under bare poles, merely by the pressure of the wind on the masts and
+rigging E.N.E. with a strong west-sou’-west wind. At two o’clock we
+broke through two gigantic floes. At the first shock against them, the
+forepart of the ship rose two feet on to the ice, and quivered as if
+the keel had struck the bottom. Masts and shrouds trembled and swayed
+under the powerful shock, but, as we might have expected, the Hansa
+bore it well.
+
+3rd of August: a fine fall of snow.
+
+On the 5th (the same day on which the Germania anchored off Sabine
+Island) the Hansa was once more in open water. Eight days previously,
+before we had resolved to sail eastward, we were in 72° 55·6′ N.L. and
+16° 54′ W.L. Now, on the 5th of August, we were in 72° 29′ N.L. and 13°
+48′ W.L. The current had carried us in this time twenty-six nautical
+miles to the southwards. The direction and strength of the southerly
+drift current could not be accurately determined, as in going backwards
+and forwards through the ice, no control could be kept over our course.
+In spite of the many shocks, and the pressure of the ice, the ship had
+not suffered.
+
+We now made a second attempt at following the instructions to penetrate
+to the coast in latitude 75°.
+
+From the 5th to the 11th of August we had, with the exception of slight
+fogs, good weather, the reading of the thermometer ranging from 27° to
+36° F.
+
+We sailed northwards along the ice boundary with a good southerly wind,
+until the 10th of August. Seals were numerous, swimming in troops of
+from ten to twenty. They were very lively, often springing with the
+whole of their body out of the water, a sign that it was pairing time.
+At eight o’clock we fancied we saw a vessel, and the hope of finding
+the Germania once more arose within us, but a thick fog set in, and our
+signal-gun remained unanswered.
+
+9th August: in 74° 14·6′ N.L. and 11° 2′ W.L. Froze in the night,
+between the 10th and 11th, the ice being an inch and a half thick. We
+steered in a north-westerly direction, and at seven in the morning were
+twenty-five nautical miles nearer the coast, in 74° 58½′ N.L. and 11°
+16·5’ W.L., the thickness of the ice preventing us from making further
+use of the favourable south-west wind.
+
+For the next few days our task was an unusually heavy one. The wind
+was unfavourable, so the attempt to sail through the opposing ice was
+impracticable. But twelve hours’ work of dragging the ship along by
+means of a small anchor fastened to a rope, through the icy barrier,
+resulted in our reaching navigable water on the 13th.
+
+But we were again disappointed! After sailing westward one night,
+we saw ourselves, on the morning of the 14th, hemmed in once more
+on all sides; fresh ice formed between the floes, besides filling
+up every passage, so that the Hansa was fast again. From this time
+forward until the complete blocking up of the Hansa, the captain’s
+log-book unfolds a succession of reverses, troubles, and dangers.
+August 14th, fast; shot a Polar bear; stream south-west ½° W.; made
+thirteen nautical miles in forty-eight hours: 15th, we are nearer the
+coast than we have yet been. Shannon I. distant forty-eight nautical
+miles, Pendulum, fifty-nine; thick ice. 16th, thermometer, 25° Fahr.;
+fine weather. Stuck fast to the floe, drifting steadily southward.
+Warping quite useless. 18th and 19th warped again. Made some few ship’s
+lengths. Open water to the north-west, which we reached on the 23rd,
+hoping to sail farther westward.
+
+  [Illustration: THE “FLOWER-BASKET.”]
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 86._
+
+  WARPING THROUGH THE ICE.]
+
+Evening, fast again in 74° 36·4′ N.L. and 15° 49·1′ W.L. For zoological
+observation there was much to interest. The body of a _Phoca
+Greenlandica_ had drawn numerous ivory gulls together. Two birds
+(_Strepsilas interpres_) were observable on the new ice; and the
+dredge produced us many beautiful star-fishes and molluscs.
+
+August 24th: a boat excursion to the land; captain, two officers, Dr.
+Laube, and two sailors. We left the ship at two o’clock, and pressed
+forward to within sixteen nautical miles of the land. Passed a peculiar
+icy formation, which we named the “Flower-basket.” Saw the coast very
+distinctly from a tall hummock, which we climbed, and hoisted the
+German flag upon it. Further we could not go, as the ice was too close,
+and a late return to the ship, which was ever drifting southwards,
+would be very difficult in a possibly rising fog. Return journey began
+quarter past seven in the evening. On board once more by half-past
+twelve at night. The position of the ice was much altered, and a dense
+fog came up, so that we could scarcely find our way, and were often
+obliged to haul the boat over the floes. W. Bade’s diary describes with
+genuine sailor’s humour the frugal evening meal under the open sky
+upon the ice during their excursion. In the hurry, only hard bread and
+some cocoa had been brought with us, and a few bottles of sherry and
+brandy. Cigars never failed. “At first, owing to the lowness of the
+temperature, we could not succeed in boiling the water; and in order to
+concentrate the heat had to lay our sou’-westers over the machine--a
+very questionable proceeding, inasmuch as these oilskin coverings were
+with great difficulty saved from the flames, which readily caught
+them.” On the 25th we towed the ship in a calm towards the coast.
+To-day the Hansa reached its nearest to Sabine Island. The vessel lay
+due west ¼° N., thirty-five nautical miles off, in 74° 30′ N.L. and 16°
+40′ 5″ W.L. On the 25th and 27th the ship underwent pressure by the
+ice, but remained undamaged. According to the report of the Germania’s
+voyage, she anchored after a journey to Shannon Island on the 27th of
+August in the evening, and was at Little Pendulum at eleven o’clock.
+At this time we were in about 74° 20′ N.L. and 16° 50′ W.L.; so that
+at the utmost the ships were not more than thirty-four nautical miles
+distant from each other! Much colder these last few days: 23° to 16° F.
+August 28th: the first and only time we had a brisk north-west wind;
+drifted with a large ice-field considerably southward.
+
+Taking into consideration the strong ice pressure to which the ship
+was continually subject, we made ready the boats and divided the fur
+clothing. We saw before us the imminent prospect of being obliged to
+pass the winter off the coast. We began seriously to talk of using
+our coal-bricks to build a house on the ice to which we might fly for
+refuge in case the ship were lost. September 2nd: rain and storm from
+the south-east. Morning of the 5th, fine weather, light south-east
+wind; sailed twenty nautical miles in a north-westerly direction,
+partly by the side of an ice-field fifteen nautical miles long, until
+eight in the evening, when calm, fog, and ice brought us once more to a
+stand. This was our last sail. Had we had steam we should most likely
+have reached the open water, which we saw along the coast.
+
+The next day we laid the Hansa between two promontories of a large
+ice-field, which eventually proved a raft of deliverance. Now began
+the complete blockade of our ship in the ice.
+
+These occurrences and the changing state of mind on board up to this
+time is plainly perceivable in the diaries. Dr. Laube writes thus on
+the 13th of August:--“As towards morning the wind was more favourable,
+we heaved up the anchor and tried to get free. Vain effort! Although
+we towed from one floe to the other, with all our strength, we were
+none the nearer. Scarcely were we free from one floe than another
+immediately drifted into its place. It seems bewitched. At noon,
+our faces were very long, and we came to look upon our mission as
+a failure. Open water seemed nearer again, but we were faster than
+ever in the ice. In spite of all our trouble the ship had not moved
+an inch from the floe, which is in reality an immense ice-field on
+our lee, whilst on our weather-side lay some large blocks. At last,
+after fourteen hours’ heavy labour, the ship got free. The floes broke
+asunder, a passage opened, and we sailed into it with a fair wind. The
+canal gets broader and broader. Beyond, the sea seems almost free from
+ice. Right and left it receded to the horizon. It was as if we were
+on a great lake; some floes swimming about like islands. As a heavy
+fog shut out the sun, we could not see where the open water ended.
+We hovered between hope and fear. Ten minutes before six o’clock we
+got under weigh; seven, eight, nine o’clock, no end to be seen! Ten
+o’clock, open water still before us. Unfortunately the breeze dropped
+entirely. I asked Mr. Bade how long we could still sail. He thought the
+whole night through. We could not go to rest yet. Our hearts beat from
+excitement, and however deep hope had sunk at noon, it rose now higher
+every minute. Eleven o’clock, still sailing! but very slowly, till the
+wind died away entirely.”
+
+The 14th of August, in 74° 45.4′ N.L., and 13° 56·5′ “W.L. At nine in
+the evening soundings were taken, and a depth of 120 fathoms found. The
+ground was mud; the dredging-nets were full of sponges, polythalamias,
+and so forth. Another on the 16th in 74° 38′ N.L. and 14° 34′ W.L.,
+at noon gave 100 fathoms; the ground was brown slime. In the evening
+several attempts were made with the dredge. The first brought up a
+beautiful sponge, in the cavities of which were many fine and beautiful
+amphipoda; besides a great deal of sand and fine slime, in which by
+sifting we found countless bivalves and snails, (_Terebratulæ_,
+_Serpulariæ_); and some beautiful polythalamias, &c. A second and
+third attempt was followed by no result.”
+
+It freezes visibly, and the fresh ice uniting the floes is already so
+thick that it can bear a man. “We remained,” says Dr. Laube, “with
+every sail set between the great, thick ice-packs, having advanced upon
+the whole three ship’s-lengths westward. In the evening we distinctly
+saw land towering above the ice; the refraction showing us a solid
+barrier to the north. To the east the ice lies just as thickly packed.
+Two-thirds of the way happily lay behind us, but the last third seemed
+to be beset by insurmountable difficulties. To what purpose was all
+our labour? I thought of those at home, who only admit imaginary
+difficulties in the ice, and who, perhaps, doubt our good will, our
+self-sacrifice, and our sincere endeavours. I did not go to rest that
+night with the best and quietest of thoughts. We were in the ice, but
+whether or how we should ever come out again, God only knew.”
+
+Several photographs of the ship were taken from the neighbouring floes
+by the first officer, Mr. Hildebrandt. The frost and the reflection
+of the ice were very troublesome, but some succeeded very well.
+Unfortunately, this trouble was also in vain. Neither the apparatus nor
+the plates could be saved at the going down of the Hansa. On the 20th,
+fifty nautical miles from the coast, two small land-birds were seen
+picking up food on the ice.
+
+The boat journey to the longed-for land was undertaken by the captain,
+the second officer, and two sailors, as well as Dr. Laube. “We sailed,”
+says the latter in his diary, “at two o’clock, and made a rapid course
+through a long, wide canal. The vessel was soon lost to sight, as the
+floes were very high. The ice-field along which the Hansa lay, was
+nearly four miles long. Passing through a cross channel, we came into
+some more open water, so that at five o’clock we were about seven to
+eight nautical miles distant from the ship, and consequently so many
+miles nearer land. We lay to by a large floe, and from its top looked
+around us. The ice before us was ‘Pack-ice.’ We saw the islands of
+Pendulum and Sabine surrounded by a streak of light which we took for
+open coast water.[14]
+
+“We spread our oilskin coats on the floe, encamped there, and made our
+cocoa, enjoyed the fine sunny day, and rejoiced over the glimpse of
+land. We then crossed another and a larger tract of ice, and climbed
+a wall which rose straight out of the water. On this, our farthest
+point, we planted the flag. As we noticed that the ice was once more
+in motion, from the fact that the small harbour in which our boat
+lay was entirely filled up, we resolved to return. The home journey
+was considerably more difficult than the outward one; the canal was
+closed up, and it was not easy to find the right opening. We were
+often obliged to get out and survey from some high spot; and often
+to push the boat over the ice. As the wind had quite dropped we were
+compelled to row. In some places the fresh ice prevented us from making
+any way; and after sunset a dense fog rose, which might in so far
+be disagreeable, as to compel us to pass the night on the floe. We,
+however, eventually succeeded in reaching the Hansa, which we had left
+in open water, and now found jammed between two hummocks, so that we
+could scarcely get near her. But we at least brought the hope with us
+that it was not impossible to reach the coast.”
+
+The 25th of August was the captain’s birthday, and was kept by firing a
+gun, the hoisting of the ship’s flag, and a huge cake, made with great
+art by our cook. At breakfast, the hero of the _fête_ found upon
+his plate a pretty poem by Dr. Laube, in which the good wishes of all
+were heartily expressed. A part of our community amused themselves by
+skating. On the afternoon of the 29th we saw a magnificent phenomenon.
+Two coloured coronas formed round the sun, in which were conspicuous,
+by their greater brightness, three spots. One stood vertically over
+the sun, and was the spring of an arch, which touched one corona, and
+the convex side of which was turned to the sun. This was not really
+a _mock sun_, like those on each side, but a concentration of
+brightness at the point of contact of the two bows, thus giving the
+impression that it stood across the vertical spot. The two side mock
+suns, to the right and left of the sun, were united by an elliptical
+arch, passing through it, and were elongated, presenting the colours of
+the rainbow, and emitting a bright steel-grey pyramid or cone. The red
+colour spread over the sun.
+
+Marine animal life was strikingly poor near the coast. _Cydippe_ and
+_Beroë_ were not rare, but on the other hand gammarus and amphipoda,
+which we noticed on the outer ice boundary, were quite wanting. On the
+15th of August the dredge brought up some very fine _Comatulæ_ and
+_Antedon Sarsii_. _Larus eburneus_, the ivory gull, was often fed from
+the ship, and caught by angling. Some birds we let fly again, with a
+brass coin with “Hansa” upon it fastened round their throats. At the
+beginning of September _Mergulus alle_ was common. We often saw ravens.
+The hunting-expeditions from the 10th of August to the blockading of
+the ship yielded nine seals, amongst which were two crested seals, and
+one young polar bear.
+
+Sunday, August 29th: steadily drifting forward in a southerly
+direction. Of land we shall soon see nothing more, and the ice is so
+dense on all sides that it is in vain to look for an opening even from
+the crow’s-nest. Our position is growing every moment more serious; but
+in case of the worst, the boats are completely fitted and victualled,
+on the deck, so that at a moment’s notice they can be lowered.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER V.
+
+          FROM THE BLOCKING UP OF THE HANSA TO OUR SETTLEMENT
+                 ON THE FLOE. 7TH SEPT. TO END OF OCT.
+
+   Fresh attempt to reach the coast.--Open water to westwards.--The
+   Hansa completely frozen in by Sept. 14th.--Pressure of the
+   floes against the ship.--A she-bear and her cub.--The bear
+   killed.--Wintering on the ice off the coast unavoidable.--Our
+   prospects for the future.--We build a house in which to
+   pass the winter.--The boats clear.--The Hansa in a struggle
+   with the ice.--Breaking up of the keel.--The ship has to be
+   abandoned.--Extrication of the chief necessaries from the
+   ship.--First night in the Hansa-house on the floe.--Wreck
+   of the Hansa.--Favourable weather during the period of the
+   catastrophe.--Sinking of the wreck.--Completion of the
+   arrangements in our hut.--Hoisting of the North German flag.--We
+   steadily drift to the southwards.
+
+
+On the 7th of September the hope of reaching the coast fluttered
+once more in our breasts. In the afternoon, with clear weather and a
+temperature of 20° Fahr., the coast-line was clearly to be seen about
+thirty-five nautical miles distant. To the west of the ice-field,
+on the east side of which the Hansa lay blocked up, could be seen a
+large, open, navigable, white-crested water which seemed to reach to
+the coast. We took an excursion over the ice-field along the southern
+border towards the west, in order to ascertain whether the channel
+there was navigable all the way through, so that by means of it we
+might reach the open water. Wading through deep and superficially
+frozen snow, we reached a high block of ice, which we named the
+“Devil’s Thumb,” from the top of which a wider view could be obtained.
+Sitting astride or lying on this, we refreshed the inner man with a
+little “caraways,” which Bade had brought with him as a strengthener.
+Two other colossal masses of ice, between which lay a picturesque
+narrow pass, we called the “Brandenburg Gate.” One of them we succeeded
+in climbing, by mounting on one another’s shoulders and then cutting
+steps with a knife in the ice wall. Hildebrandt sketched the little
+scene. Unfortunately the channel proved too narrow to admit the vessel
+and soon the ice in it and on the other side of the field set firmer
+together. The next day we had frosty weather, 23° to 5° Fahr., and
+on the 14th of September, the Hansa was completely frozen up in 73°
+25·7′ N.L., and 18° 39·5′ W.L. The south-westerly drift combined with
+the continual wind blowing from the north drove the ship in the ice
+steadily southwards, so that from the 12th to the 14th (for example) we
+had drifted thirteen nautical miles to the south.
+
+  [Illustration: THE DEVIL’S THUMB.]
+
+  [Illustration: THE “BRANDENBURG GATE.”]
+
+On the 9th, a large floe drifted into the mouth of the bay in which the
+Hansa lay. This we made fast with hawsers, in order to protect us from
+the floating ice. Some days later, a storm from the N.N.E. broke the
+hawsers and set the floe drifting once more. The ice thrust our ship
+into the field, at the same time raising the Hansa a foot and a half.
+On a neighbouring field we saw a she-bear with her cub. A boat at once
+put off to hunt them.
+
+  [Illustration: HUNTING THE POLAR BEAR.]
+
+The pair soon espied us, and tramped to the edge of the ice near the
+boat, the old one gnashing her teeth and licking her chaps. We fired as
+soon as we could take a steady aim, and the bear fell dead in the snow.
+Over the young one, which remained by her side licking and caressing
+her in the most affecting way, we repeatedly cast a noose, which,
+however, it always eluded, and at last ran away howling and lamenting;
+so we lost it in spite of a shot which wounded it.
+
+  [Illustration: POLAR BEAR AS A WATCHDOG.]
+
+  [Illustration: ICE-FORMATIONS.]
+
+  [Illustration: SKATING ON “SINAI.”]
+
+At ten p.m. we saw in a westerly direction towards the south some
+gleams of the northern lights. They were short, bright, glittering
+sheaves and phosphorescent spots, which lengthened out towards the
+zenith, but soon disappeared. At the same time, we heard the young bear
+howling dismally on the spot where its mother had been killed. The
+fresh bear’s-meat came most opportunely, and tasted excellent either
+as a roast joint or in chops. On the 12th, from the east as before,
+leaving the land behind them, came another couple of bears. The old one
+met the same fate as her forerunner; the young one was caught, escaped
+again, was brought back swimming, and lastly chained to the ice-anchor.
+It was very frightened, but eagerly devoured its mother’s flesh which
+we threw to it. We built it a snow-house, and offered it a couch of
+shavings, which, however, the young bear, as a genuine inhabitant of
+the Arctic seas, despised, and preferred camping in the snow. Some days
+later, it had disappeared, together with the chain, which must have
+become loosened from the anchor. From the weight of the iron alone the
+poor creature must soon have sunk. Other Arctic guests visited the
+Hansa. With a brisk wind came two white foxes from the coast close to
+the ship, a certain proof that the ice, either in fields or young
+ice, must extend to the coast. With tails high in the air they shot
+over the ice-fields like small craft sailing before the wind. For the
+first moment it seemed as if the wind had caught up a couple of large
+semicircles of whitish yellow paper, and was wafting them along. One
+of the creatures was shot from on board by Mr. Hildebrandt, and the
+next day gave us a very well-flavoured joint of fox. The idle time we
+did our best to fill up with all sorts of occupations. In the course
+of frequent walks, we observed the forms which the ice assumed, and
+some particularly strange and striking ones we gave names to. A short
+half-hour’s walk from the ship lay “Sinai,” an ice mass thirty-nine
+feet high, composed of fragments and mighty blocks, and the highest
+jagged point of which looked in the distance like the finger of an
+outspread hand; then somewhat farther on stood the already mentioned
+“Brandenburg Gate,” two pieces of ice standing near each other like a
+gateway fifteen feet thick and twenty high; and lastly, between some
+neighbouring floes, the “Devil’s Thumb.” We managed to skate on the
+rough ice, and in fine weather we strengthened our constitution by
+gymnastic games. The men, for example, amused themselves thoroughly
+with ball-play; which in twenty-seven degrees of cold and bright
+sunshine covered their foreheads with beads of perspiration. You should
+have seen our carpenter, how light-footed he ran with his fur cap over
+his ears, his great thick jacket, and coarse heavy boots!
+
+Towards the end of September, the necessity of wintering on the
+floating ice off the coast, with or without the ship, was decided upon;
+and the serious question forced itself upon us, as to what chances
+we had to count upon in our favour, or how to prepare against the
+possibility which lay before us that with the ship, though possibly
+under many dangers, we might drift southwards, and in February emerge
+from the ice not far from Iceland. Certainly, the experience of many
+former Greenland captains, who had got on to the ice on the Greenland
+coast, told us that their vessels had gone to the bottom, and the
+men had been sometimes lost, and sometimes saved in the boats, after
+frightful difficulties and dangers, by reaching an Esquimaux settlement
+on the south-west coast. In Lindeman’s “Arctic Fishery” (p. 37), for
+example, it is related that this happened in the year 1777 to several
+ships; amongst others, the Wilhelmine; from Texel. On the other side,
+there floated before our eyes the equally dangerous circumstances
+of the journey carried out by the Fox, blocked up in the ice under
+MacClintock, as well as Kane’s first voyage. Our ship was provided with
+every improvement which could make an Arctic expedition in the present
+day less dangerous than formerly. It would have been unwise on our
+part to rest content with these facts; indeed, in the second part of
+September, the more frequent pressure of the ice warned us that we must
+prepare for the worst, namely the loss of the ship.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 102._
+
+  ICE-FORMATIONS.]
+
+A winter passed in the boats on the ice with only sail-roofs was
+conceivable; but apparently, both in regard of health and life, it
+would be in the highest degree dangerous. How protect oneself from the
+storms, the cold, and the increasing down-whirling masses of snow,
+which sometimes last for weeks together? How provide the indispensable
+warm nourishment? The erection of a winter-house on the ice must be
+taken into consideration. Immediately the building of the aforesaid
+coal-house was clamoured for. Bricks were already there in the shape
+of coal-tiles, an excellent building material, which would absorb
+the damp and keep the warmth in the room. Water and snow formed the
+mortar. For the roof, in case of a real settlement on the ice-field on
+account of the loss of the ship, we purposed taking the snow roofing
+of the deck of the Hansa. Before anything else was done the boats were
+cleared out, and two of them, the Hope and the Bismarck, covered with
+the snow roof. For each of these, provisions were kept ready on deck.
+Captain Hegemann sketched the plan for the building. The length was 20
+feet, the breadth 14 feet, and the height 6½ feet in the gable, the
+side walls being only 4 feet 8 inches high. A firm spot, free from any
+fracture, was chosen about 450 paces from the ship; and we had no cause
+to fear that the floe might soon break from friction with any other
+drifting ice-field. Had the house been a greater distance from the
+ship, the difficulty of bringing up the heavy materials would have been
+greater, and thus have retarded the progress of the building. The work
+began on the 27th of September with the foundations, which here were
+more ready to hand than on land. With snow-axes and ballast-shovels we
+then cleared away from the firm mass of ice about a foot and a half of
+snow. We had intended to raise the walls with a double row of stones;
+but unfortunately had overrated our stock, and were therefore obliged
+to economize, and only use the 9-inch broad stones up to about two
+feet, and after that lay them singly. A brook which we had dug in the
+ice hard by, and which gave us the sweetest of water, also afforded
+the most excellent cement. Whilst wall-building on land has to be
+given up in frosty weather, our building on the contrary progressed
+the more rapidly. We only needed to strew finely-powdered snow between
+the grooves and cracks, pour water upon it, and in ten minutes all was
+frozen to a strong compact mass, from which one single stone would with
+difficulty have been extracted! The roof, for the present, was composed
+of sail-cloth and some matting, which had by chance been left on the
+Hansa after her last West Indian voyage. (This was made of reeds, and
+was laid down in the cabin when company was expected.) The rafters
+were made out of the spars and staves of tubs; the first-named were
+laid crossways upon the latter. On this framework the sail-cloth and
+matting were nailed; and in order to give this somewhat airy building
+more solidity and firmness, snow was thrown upon the top. A double
+door two feet and a half wide we made on board; the floor we filled
+in with coal blocks; and thus in seven days, namely on the 3rd of
+October, we began to provide the finished house with provisions for two
+months--about 400 lbs. of bread, two dozen tins of preserved meat, a
+side of bacon, some coffee and brandy; afterwards fuel, and some boxes
+of coal. At the same time the plank roofing, in case of wintering on
+board, was erected. This wooden roof, covered with felt, rested on the
+one side on the mast and on the other on the bulwarks. It reached from
+the mainmast to the after part of the ship. Amidships and to the fore,
+sails were stretched. The whole work was favoured by fine weather and a
+medium temperature of 20° to 9° Fahr.
+
+On the 7th the young ice broke in front of us once more. The men were
+just busy sweeping the excellent skating-ground which they had found
+there, when a peculiar rustling and a violent movement of the thick
+ice betokened a storm from the north. Immediately it bulged and burst,
+forcing up each floe on its edge. This breaking up, heaving, and
+pressing, lasted about an hour, during which we watched it from the
+safe observatory of our field.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 105._
+
+  THE LIVERPOOL COAST.]
+
+On the 8th of October, shortly after the completion of the coal-house,
+such bad weather set in, with drifting snow, that would have made
+the continuation of it perfectly impossible, and in five days have
+completely destroyed both house and ship. On the middle and after part
+of the deck such drifts of snow had collected that it was difficult
+to get from the cabin to the lodging. The young ice surrounding the
+Hansa was so heavily laden with the snowfall, that it gave way,
+loosening itself from the ship, and causing the sea-water to penetrate
+between the ice and the snow. At the same time it blew violently from
+the north; the thermometer stood at 9½° Fahr., and suddenly the wind
+with a rushing noise hurled the ship over to starboard, so that, owing
+to the impossibility of seeing farther than a few paces, we feared
+lest she might be driven from the field. The ropes were therefore with
+much trouble made fast to the ice-anchor, a work which took all the
+men more than an hour to accomplish. By the 13th, the storm had spent
+itself; it was once more clear, quiet weather, and we found ourselves
+sixteen nautical miles north-east from the Liverpool coast. It looked
+like a steep, jagged mountain chain, sparingly covered with snow.
+Greater quantities only appeared in the valleys and ravines. We could
+distinctly see the northern point, Cape Gladstone, and the outlying
+islands of Murray and Reynolds, as also a great part of the far distant
+southerly-stretching coast, which, according to the astronomical
+observations of the 14th to the 15th, lies in reality ten nautical
+miles more to the south than is given on Scoresby’s chart. The drift
+current on those days, from the 5th to the 14th of October, was very
+powerful. In this time we left seventy-two nautical miles behind us
+to south-south-west. The nights were remarkably cold, sometimes 4° F.
+below zero. The only sign of animal life was the frequent appearance of
+ravens (_Corvus corax_) in the neighbourhood of the ship, which
+doubtless were wintering on the coast. Once we saw a gull and a falcon;
+and now and then we were made aware of the proximity of narwahls in
+the frozen channel by their blowing.
+
+On the 17th, in clear weather, three men, the carpenter Böwe, and the
+sailors Büttner and Heyne, undertook to reach the land, which was about
+ten nautical miles distant. They started at seven in the morning in a
+calm and 0° Fahr. After crossing many dangerous places in the young
+ice, some fields lay before them, over which they pressed forward to
+within four nautical miles from land. After three hours’ wandering,
+however, they had to halt, as a strip of water two nautical miles
+broad, and about the same breadth of land-ice running along the coast,
+blocked their way. At one o’clock, with a north wind and drifting snow,
+they started back to the ship, where we were already uneasy about them.
+On the 18th of October early, again clear and still frosty weather; but
+already at half-past eight a.m. the ice began to thrust and press round
+the ship. This unpleasant noise lasted until the afternoon. At regular
+intervals underneath, the ice, like a succession of waves, groaned and
+cracked, squashed and puffed; now sounding like the banging of doors,
+now like many human voices raised one against the other, and lastly,
+like a drag on the wheel of a railway engine. The evident immediate
+cause of this crushing was that our field had turned in drifting, and
+was now pressed closer to the coast-ice. The two floes of ice lying
+before the vessel received the hardest pressure, so that for a time
+the Hansa was spared, though trembling violently. The masts often
+swayed so much that it seemed as though some one was climbing them.
+At the same time our field sustained long and deep fissures, by which
+the whale-boat seemed so endangered, that we thought it necessary for
+its safety to bring it alongside the ship. Towards evening the weather
+cleared again; but our fear that this day was only a forerunner of
+worse proved itself on the following day too well grounded. We were,
+however, busy with preparations for either case, viz., the wintering
+in the coal-house, supposing the ship should be lost, or remaining
+on board the ship itself. The store in the house was augmented by a
+barrel of bread and fuel (particularly wood); our fur clothing was
+rolled together and taken on deck from the winter lodging, where it
+had previously lain with other articles. This was soon to be used
+after fitting up our still missing berths. On moving the provisions,
+numbers of rats were found which had not yet deserted the ship. We
+little thought how much our preservation depended upon the fact that
+the following day the provisions had not yet been moved to their
+destination, the summer lodging, which had again to be emptied. By the
+evening the pressure had ceased; the air was quiet, but not clear;
+around the full moon, which cast a troubled uncertain light upon the
+fields and icebergs, a halo had formed; and in the cabin, as well as in
+the lodging, we sought to divert ourselves by playing at cards.
+
+The morning of the 19th dawned, foretelling mischief with a N.N.W.
+storm of snow[15] and ice pressure. The air was gloomy and thick, and
+the coast, which was a little more than four miles distant, not to be
+seen. The first heavy pressure followed at ten a.m., though not before
+noon did our position become serious. At this time, the constantly
+nearing, piled-up masses of young ice (about four feet thick) had
+broken up on the starboard side of the vessel, and pressed heavily on
+the outer side. The fore part of the ship rose somewhat, and would have
+risen more, had not the high ice-blocks prevented it; it had therefore
+to bear the whole weight of the pressure. A trial of the pumps in the
+meantime showed that she was still water-tight. Shortly before one
+o’clock, the deck-seams amidship sprang, but still she seemed tight.
+After this strong pressure followed a short pause, which we employed
+in taking our mid-day meal on deck. Below it was very uncomfortable.
+But soon some mighty blocks of ice pushed themselves under the bow of
+the vessel, and although they were crushed by it, they forced it up,
+slowly at first, then quicker, until it was raised 17 feet out of its
+former position upon the ice. This movement we tried to ease as much
+as possible by shovelling away the ice and snow from the larboard
+side. The rising of the ship was an extraordinary and awful, yet
+splendid spectacle, of which the whole crew were witnesses from the
+ice. In all haste the clothing, nautical instruments, journals, and
+cards were taken over the landing-bridge. The after part of the ship,
+unfortunately, would not rise; and therefore the stern-post had to bear
+the most frightful pressure, and the conviction that the ship must soon
+break up forced itself upon our minds.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 108._
+
+  THE HANSA IN DISTRESS.]
+
+About five o’clock there was again a pause in the pressure of the
+ice-floes, and the raised ice retreated, so that in the course of an
+hour the ship, lying on her starboard side, glided into more open
+water. The hawsers, which had been cast loose, so as not to stop her
+from rising, were again made fast; after which we went to the pumps,
+and found that there were seventeen inches of water in the hold. We
+set them working at once, and about seven o’clock had the pleasure of
+finding them run more slowly. We now allowed ourselves time for our
+evening meal, for we might entertain the hope that, in spite of the
+frightful pressure she had sustained, our ship was not very leaky. But
+in a quarter of an hour’s time, we found to our terror, that there
+was again two feet of water in the pumps. Even admitting that part of
+this water had penetrated slowly from the after part, the ship must be
+dreadfully leaky. Again we set to work at the pumps, determined to do
+all in our power to rid our vessel of the water. A half-hour’s work,
+however, showed that all exertions were vain; the depth of the water
+in the cabin was increasing steadily, though slowly. The most careful
+investigation of the ship, however, did not reveal the position of the
+leak. In vain did both captain and steersman listen for the sound of
+water dripping. Evidently this was taking place at some part of the
+ship’s bottom, under the coal. Besides the leak in the stern-post, the
+keel must have sustained a fracture; perhaps even the ship’s sides near
+the floor-heads had been forced in. Enough! the fate of the Hansa was
+sealed; our good ship must go to the bottom! Calmly, though much moved,
+we faced this hard fact. The house of coal on the southward drifting
+ice-fields was destined now to be, through the long Arctic winter, our
+only place of refuge--perhaps too, our grave! There was not a minute’s
+time to be lost. The work went steadily forward. By nine p.m. the fall
+of snow had ceased; a clear, starry heaven shone down upon us, and
+the moon shed her light over the dreary ice-field. Now and again the
+northern lights shot upwards in ever-changing colours. At the same time
+it was freezing sharply, the thermometer marking in the night -13° F.
+One half of the men stayed by the pumps; the others were busily engaged
+until midnight, in bringing the most necessary articles from the vessel
+on to the floe. “As to sleep,” writes Dr. Buchholz in his day-book,
+“that was not to be thought of, as the idea of our dreadful position
+was whirling through my head in the wildest manner. What would become
+of us when winter really set in, if it already announced its approach
+with such bitter cold? In vain did I try to think of any means of
+preservation. An attempt to reach the land could not be entertained
+for a moment. It might be possible to make our way through great
+dangers over the floes and fields to the coast; but at the uttermost
+we could only provide ourselves with nourishment for a few days.
+Esquimaux settlements, according to Scoresby’s experience, were not to
+be expected; so that the idea of dying of hunger seemed very near us.
+There remained, then, nothing for it, but to try and hold out in the
+coal-hut on the southward-drifting field. If it held together, we might
+hope to reach a South Greenland Esquimaux settlement in the spring, or
+(which was very unlikely) get across the icy belt to Iceland.”
+
+One great evil with the pumps was, that the water streaming on the deck
+could not, owing to the uneven position of the vessel, run off through
+the scuppers, which were filled up with ice; and thus it froze between
+the provision-chests. Soon the whole of the after-deck was full of
+ice; the water which was pumped up stood round the pumps, and the men
+who worked them had to stand in tubs in order to keep dry. To make
+a way for it to escape, we had to make holes in the bulwarks; though
+without any particular result, as from the intense cold the water came
+out quite in a half-frozen state. At the same time the ice settled so
+over the cabin skylight, that the water penetrated through the chinks.
+The night allowed our exhausted men some hours of refreshing sleep;
+then all gladly drained a cup of hot coffee, and set to work again.
+But the catastrophe was near! At eight a.m. the men who were busy in
+the fore-peak getting out firewood came with anxious faces, with the
+news that the wood was already floating below. When the captain had
+ascertained the truth of this intelligence, he ordered the pumping to
+cease. It was evident that the ship was sinking, and that it must be
+abandoned.
+
+The first thing to be done was to bring all necessary and useful
+things from the ’tween decks on to the ice; bedding, clothing, more
+provisions, and coal. Silently were all the heavy chests and barrels
+pushed over the hatchway. First comes the weighty iron galley, then
+the two stoves are happily hoisted over; their possession ensures us
+the enjoyment of warm food, the heating of our coal-house, and other
+matters indispensable for a wintering on the floe. At three o’clock,
+the water in the cabin had reached the table, and all movable articles
+were floating. The fear that we should not have enough fuel made us
+grasp at every loose piece of wood and throw it on to the ice. The
+sinking of the vessel was now almost imperceptible, it must have found
+support on a tongue of ice or some promontory of our field. There was
+still a small medicine chest, and a few other things, which, in our
+future position, would be great treasures,--such as the cabin-lamp,
+books, cigars, boxes of games, &c. The snow-roof, too, and the sails
+were brought on to the ice; but still all necessary work was not yet
+accomplished. Round about the ship lay a chaotic mass of heterogeneous
+articles, and groups of feeble rats struggling with death, and
+trembling with the cold! All articles, for greater safety, must be
+conveyed over a fissure to about thirty paces farther inland. The
+galley we at once took on a sledge to the house, as we should want it
+to give us warm coffee in the evening. We then looked after the sailor
+Max Schmidt, who was suffering from frost bite, and brought him on
+planks under the fur covering to the coal-house. By nine a.m. all were
+in the new asylum, which was lit by the cabin-lamp, and looked like
+a dreary tomb. Pleased with the completion of our heavy day’s work,
+though full of trouble for the future, we prepared our couch. A number
+of planks were laid upon the ground, and sail-cloth spread over them.
+Upon these we lay down, rolled in our furs. A man remained to watch
+the stove, as the temperature in the room had risen from 2° Fahr, to
+27½° F. It was a hard, cold bed; but sleep soon fell upon our weary
+over-worked limbs. On the morning of the 21st we went again to the ship
+to get more fuel. The coal-hole was, however, under water. We therefore
+chopped down the masts, and hauled them, with the whole of the tackle,
+on to the ice, a work which took us nearly the whole day. At eleven,
+the foremast fell; at three, the mainmast followed, and now the Hansa
+really looked a complete, comfortless wreck. For the last time, the
+captain and steersman went on deck, and about six o’clock loosed the
+ropes, which, by means of the ice-anchor, held the ship to the field,
+as we feared that our floe, which bore all our treasures, being so
+near the sinking vessel, might break. All, even the two scientific men,
+were instinctively bent on the means for our preservation, so that the
+collections, contained in bottles, boxes, and chests, as well as the
+photographic apparatus, together with all the finished photographs
+belonging to the first officer, Mr. Hildebrandt, were sacrificed! This
+loss often troubled us; but from the great difficulty of transport on
+the boat journey in the spring, we must have left the greater part
+behind. Our work of self-preservation was wonderfully favoured by the
+weather; for from the evening of the 19th to the 20th it was calm and
+clear. On the night of the 21st to the 22nd, the wreck sank in 70° 52´
+N. Lat. and 21° W. Long. about six miles from the Liverpool coast. We
+distinctly saw its cliffs and mountains, which, according to Dr. Laube,
+resembled the Chalky Alps near Munich. We recognized Halloway Bay
+and Glasgow Island, but nowhere a way through the icy labyrinth! The
+jolly-boat, King William, stood loose upon the deck; so that, by the
+sinking of the Hansa, it remained above water, and as the weather was
+still fine, we drew this third means of preservation on to the ice near
+the coal-house.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 112._
+
+  WRECK OF THE HANSA.]
+
+The next few days we set zealously to work to make our black house
+somewhat more habitable. The increased heat of the house caused the
+sail-cloth roof to leak, from the quantity of snow lying upon it, and
+we therefore passed a bad night. We rectified that, however, by a
+plank roofing covered with more sail-cloth. In order to satisfy our
+urgent need for light and air, we made a dormer-window in the roof, and
+later on a second. In spite of all this, we could not do without the
+light of the lamp for the greater part of the day. Along the whole
+length on both sides of the room, we raised a bed of boards to sleep
+upon, and laid the sacks of straw upon it. It was six inches above the
+floor, and we then put boards down the middle. To prevent the pillows
+from freezing to the wall, we had to make a wooden lining along that
+part. The cooking-stove had its place behind, a smaller one stood
+more forward. Along the walls, which were covered with sail-cloth,
+shelves were placed, on which we laid our books, instruments, and
+cooking vessels. The ship’s chests at the foot of the sleeping places
+along the passage, served both as tables and stools. The gilt-framed
+looking-glass from the cabin adorned the back wall, underneath which
+hung a costly barometer, and the accustomed ticking of the clock was to
+be heard. By all these orderly arrangements, the comfort of our stay
+in the coal-house would be greatly enhanced. A healthy sleep refreshed
+us more than anything else; and, thanks to our excellent preserves, we
+could strengthen ourselves with the meat soup which the cook prepared.
+The dread of immediate danger to life had departed; we breathed more
+freely, we felt once more at liberty, and even remembered many comical
+scenes from our experiences on the 19th, with laughter and joking. In
+the evening we had the usual whist, and as we had no table, played on a
+volume of the ship’s journal.
+
+  [Illustration: GROUND-PLAN OF THE “HANSA” HOUSE.]
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 115._
+
+  THE HANSA HOUSE ON THE FLOE.]
+
+The greater part of the provisions and fuel, together with the boats,
+lay not far from the shipwreck. These were conveyed up for the most
+part on sledges, and took several days to accomplish. All was then
+stacked near the house. As the depth of snow reached up to the walls,
+we dug a four-feet-broad walk round the house, covering it with
+sail-cloth, and strewing the snow upon it to make it more solid. This
+walk was our larder, and held nearly all our provisions; whilst the
+remainder (enough for about two months) was carefully placed in the
+boats. The small firewood which we chopped up from the masts and spars
+was set up in piles; the boats, first in one place and then in another,
+as after digging them out of the snow we had to put them in a more
+sheltered spot.
+
+The hatchway we put up to catch the wind before the door of the
+coal-house. A man-rope served for descending into the house, so that
+it was more like a fox’s hole with its roof scarcely rising above the
+level of the snow than anything else.
+
+The large flag was saved too. At the rear of the house, on a snow-hill,
+we put up the topgallant mast as a flagstaff; and in fine weather
+hoisted it for our pleasure as well as for the possible chance of
+attracting the notice of any Esquimaux settlement on the coast.
+
+At last, by degrees, order gained the upper hand. The confused heap
+of individual belongings had each found their owner. The warming
+arrangement was good, for in an atmospheric temperature of -13° Fahr.
+we could in our hut, with the protection of the snow surrounding us,
+get a warmth of 72½°. Often the firing necessary for preparing the
+meals was sufficient also for heating; and therefore, to spare the
+wood, we hardly ever used the second stove. The damp was remarkably
+diminished, for it easily escaped through the dormer-window, which also
+let in fresh air.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+
+           DRIFTING TO THE SOUTH. CHRISTMAS. A HARD JANUARY.
+             NOVEMBER, 1869, TO THE END OF JANUARY, 1870.
+
+   View of the coast.--Settling the daily order of our life on the
+   floe.--Good health of all.--Revolving of our ice-field.--We
+   come within four miles of the coast (Egede’s Land).--Christmas
+   festival.--An iceberg passes us.--Danger of the breaking up of
+   the floe.--Preparations for decamping.--Portions of the floe
+   destroyed.--The dangerous bay.--Coast scenery.--Impossibility
+   of reaching the coast.--The Arctic night.--Catastrophes of
+   the days 11th to 15th of January.--Destruction of the Hansa
+   house.--Escape in the boats, and passing the night in the
+   same.--Comfortless quarters.--Erection of new habitations.--In
+   the channel between Iceland and Greenland.--Snow-wall on the
+   floe.--Hope of reaching the settlements of West Greenland.
+
+
+Slowly but steadily our ice-field drifted to the south. By the 3rd of
+November we had passed the Liverpool coast, and had reached Scoresby’s
+Sound, sometimes being near the firm land ice, and sometimes far from
+it, a movement which would no doubt originate in the ebb and flow
+off this large, deep sound. We could distinctly see the picturesque
+formation of the rocky coast; and in two plains lying between two
+rugged mountain-tops we thought we could distinguish glaciers covered
+with snow. Since the ship had sunk fourteen days before, the ice had
+closed in upon us, and even the blocks which had broken away from our
+field had frozen to it again. Our eyes often rested with sorrow on
+the spot where the Hansa went down. Now there was room enough for her
+between the field and the land-ice!
+
+At the end of October the sun rose at half-past nine a.m., and set
+behind the rocky coast at three p.m. In the coal-house we could only
+see to read and write under the dormer-windows for a few hours each
+day. We grew more and more accustomed to the daily round of things,
+which so much resembled that on board. The last night-watch woke us
+at seven. We rose, threw on our woollen clothing, washed in melted
+snow, and enjoyed our morning coffee with hard bread. Then we all
+betook ourselves to the ever-plentiful stock of work; the finishing
+of all sorts of useful and still wanting furniture, sail-sewing,
+wood-chopping, replacing clothes from the clothes-store, keeping the
+diaries, and study. In clear weather astronomical observations were
+taken, and all necessary calculations recorded. At one we dined. Strong
+meat-soup formed the substantial part of this meal; and as we were in
+no want of preserved vegetables, we had plenty of changes prepared for
+us. Of salt meat and bacon we eat little. Of all spirits we had to
+be very sparing, only allowing ourselves one glass of strengthening
+port-wine on Sundays. Our state of health all through the winter
+was good. Except the sailor Schmidt’s attack of fever when the ship
+went down, which was soon over, and a frost-bitten toe of the sailor
+Büttner, we had no sickness or other bodily discomfort. We were always
+actively employed, and daily order and regularity were rigidly kept up.
+
+Our floe was by degrees thoroughly investigated in every quarter. We
+cleared roads, and set up marks for short tours. The mass of ice
+was about seven nautical miles in circumference, and seemed in all
+directions to have a diameter of about a little more than two miles.
+
+An excellent picture of the monotony of the landscape which surrounded
+us at the end of the year (end of December and January), can be formed
+by imagining a uniform plain, or field, covered with snow. The term
+“_field_” indicates the size of a connected floating mass of ice.
+Smaller pieces are called “floes,” and still smaller ones “drifts.” The
+ice-raft, on which (as Dr. Laube aptly remarked) “we were as the Lord’s
+passengers,” drifting for months together between the sea and the
+coast, was a solid field composed of these drifts and floes compacted
+together. The average thickness of this was about five feet above the
+water; a fact which, according to experience, would allow a submergence
+of at least forty feet. Soundings from the edge of the ice were not
+possible, as the line was lost in the shipwreck. The piled-up snow,
+which was often eight feet high, had at this time, the beginning of
+January, filled up every hole and crack on the field; so that, without
+one single resting-point, the eye wandered over the wearying uniform
+white desert. If we were at any distance from the hut, so deeply buried
+in the snow, every visible sign had disappeared except the dark spot
+or line of the chimney, the boats, and the staff with the fluttering
+flag, which after every whirlwind of snow was again unfurled. Later
+in the spring, when the greater part of our field had disappeared,
+the plain looked, owing to the pushed-up pieces of ice and snow-wall,
+almost like animated blocks of ice. Upon closer inspection these
+“ramparts” seemed to be the fragments of the pushed-up walls of small
+ice-masses, to which our field had been knitted by the frost. Here and
+there were snow-mounds, which the change from thawing weather to frost
+had almost turned into glaciers, forming a firm massive whole. The side
+of our field lying to the west and north-west presented a wild and
+discouraging view. The grating and pressing of the driving ice-floes
+had there heaped up walls ten feet high, the snow-crystals glittering
+in the sun like millions of diamonds. The morning and evening Aurora
+turned the white flakes to pale green. The nights were beautifully
+light, the light streaming downwards from the heavens; and the snow,
+with its receptive and reflective powers glittered so radiantly, that
+one could read the finest writing without trouble, and see far out
+into the distance. Amongst other things, on such nights, we always
+saw the Aurora borealis. As an instance, on the 5th of December, it
+shone so intensely that the starlight waned, and objects on our field
+cast shadows. The coast, according as it was near or far away, was
+recognizable now as a dark streak of fog, and now as a rocky form in
+all its details.
+
+  [Illustration: A SNOW SPHINX.]
+
+Our settlement at the beginning of November, when we were not yet
+snowed up, might be seen from the most distant point of our field. Near
+the chief building lay two snow-houses, which served for washing and
+drying ourselves. Boats, heaps of wood, barrels containing coals and
+bacon, surrounded this heart of our colony.
+
+To prevent the entrance of the snow and wind into our coal-house, we
+built an entrance-hall with a winding path, and a roof constructed in
+the same way as that of the house.
+
+At the beginning of November we observed two strange natural phenomena.
+We were about eight nautical miles from the Liverpool coast, when, as
+we were walking along, a number of small willow-like leaves whirled
+around us, which had evidently been carried from the land by the wind;
+at another place the snow was, for a considerable distance, covered
+with a red-stone dust. Dr. Laube thought it must be of volcanic origin,
+and that it had been carried through the air from Iceland, which was
+about 180 nautical miles distant.
+
+In November, upon a neighbouring floe, separated from us by a small
+piece of frozen water, we saw the shapeless body of a large walrus
+lying motionless as a rock. The steersmen, Hildebrandt and Bade, with
+some others, started for the chase as soon as the boat could be got
+into the water, which was done with much trouble, they being obliged
+to carry it for some distance over the young ice. Here, too, the
+needle-gun proved its value, the ball passing through the monster’s
+inch-thick hide. A few shots killed him, after being badly wounded, and
+in a fury trying to smash the young ice on which the hunters stood, and
+seize them when once in the water. The further moving of the colossal
+carcass for our own purposes was, besides, no small matter. With the
+united strength of ten men and the help of a powerful pulley, it was
+several hours before we got the walrus out of the water on to the ice.
+
+Skinning the specimen, too, was dreadfully difficult, for it soon froze
+in a cold of -20° Fahr. to a hard, stony mass, over which we had no
+power. Under the skin lay a coating three inches thick of fat, which
+afforded us very acceptable fuel. The tongue was excellent; indeed,
+amongst the whale-fishers of the Behring’s Straits, salted walrus
+tongues are a favourite dish. Late that same evening a white bear, the
+first of our winter campaign, was attracted to the house by the smell
+of our walrus’ fat. Three shots greeted him, the effect of which could
+not be seen until the following morning. About 100 yards distant lay
+the bear, hit in the side by the bullet, as if asleep, though quite
+dead, upon the snow. It was a fine, handsome beast; its well-developed
+head lay upon its front paws; the red drops of blood stood sharply
+out against the clean white snow: a gift from heaven in our present
+position, as an addition of fresh meat was greatly to be desired.
+The four hams, weighing 200 lbs., would form a delicate roast for a
+succession of Sundays; at the same time that the skin was a further
+protection for the still sometimes leaking roof. Some days later we had
+another visit from master “Bruin.” As we left the house on the 23rd of
+November, we noticed several traces of his presence; he had been at the
+boat Bismarck, and standing on his hind feet had sniffed the provisions
+lying there, when he had met with the misfortune of falling through
+the tightly-spread, stiffly-frozen sail-cloth. Terrified by this from
+the investigation of the contents of the boat, he had turned to the
+house, at the entrance of which we found his marks. The brightness
+of the lamp, always burning in the snow path, had then (we supposed)
+frightened him.
+
+In the beginning of November our drifting was considerable; from the
+5th to the 13th of November it amounted daily to eight nautical miles;
+from 70° N.L. and 21° W.L. to 69° 4·5′ N.L. and 22° 44′ W.L. At this
+time the bright northern lights afforded us daily an agreeable matter
+for conversation. The dazzling-coloured rays stretched perpendicularly
+over the whole horizon, sometimes undulating like the folds of a giant
+curtain set in motion by the wind. The down-shooting colours seemed to
+touch our field, emitting such a blinding light that our shadows were
+sharply defined, and the light of the stars greatly weakened. When,
+as was oftentimes the case, the beautiful appearance was suddenly
+manifested, it went slowly through different forms to the height of its
+glory.
+
+The rotatory motion of our field was, up to the 22nd of November,
+rather slow, as from the 10th it had only turned once round. The
+quicker drift-current had been more effectual in its working, and had
+brought about this revolution in the short space of four days.
+
+Moreover, until the beginning of January our ice-mass had experienced
+no damage. On the 14th of November we passed in our southward journey
+the most southerly point, according to Scoresby, of this stretch of
+coast, Cape Barclay, lying in 69° 14′ N.L. and 24° 30′ W.L. From
+this time to the most northerly point of Graah’s coast-journey, Cape
+Dan, lying in 65° 37′ N.L. and 37° 20′ W.L., we saw an unknown land,
+the so-called “Egede’s Land.” We succeeded at least in determining
+some points of this coast, which we approached within four miles.
+Unfortunately the very time we found ourselves nearest to it our lives
+were in great danger, our ill fate following us here, and we were
+obliged to allow the favourable moment for serving science to pass by
+unheeded.
+
+From the 2nd to the 4th of November we floated past Scoresby’s Sound.
+The discoverer of this rather considerable Fjord relates that by the
+strength of a submarine current icebergs are frequently driven from it.
+And, indeed, whilst up to this time we had been unable to catch sight
+of one, we saw on the 5th (after having evidently passed through the
+current and out of the Sound, being about ten to fifteen nautical miles
+from the coast some days later) for the first time a great iceberg in
+the north-west towards Scoresby’s Sound, about four nautical miles from
+us.
+
+Icebergs are known to be broken portions of glaciers. That seen by us
+was rather long but not high, allowing us to conclude that the original
+had considerable breadth but no great height.
+
+The temperature in November and December showed great variations:
+6th November, -20° Fahr., fine weather with a west wind; 20th, 32°
+Fahr. with driving snow to the south-west, and, later, fine rain;
+evening of the 1st December, 32.2° Fahr.; 3rd December, 35° Fahr., our
+snow-buildings began to thaw; 18th December, -20° Fahr. with a light
+sou’-wester, and the lowest temperature we ever had, being then in 67½°
+N.L.
+
+On the 16th of December, we greeted a white Arctic fox as a messenger
+from land. Its appearance was indisputable evidence that the ice
+reached to the coast. The fox, white with a black-tipped tail, was
+particularly confiding, even bold. He scratched up the bear’s flesh
+buried in the snow, and had carried it off to eat as we approached him.
+He then quite unconstrainedly took a walk on the roof of our house,
+and through the small window convinced himself as to what was going on
+within. Should we shoot it? No! It was a long time since we had seen
+such a fearless creature. At times we placed nets with a meat-bait
+to teaze him; but he always managed to get clear of them at the
+right time. November and December passed without anything particular
+happening. On the 13th of December strong northern lights. On the
+18th the full moon and spring tide occurred, and with them, the usual
+ice pressure which, in the night of the 20th to the 21st, destroyed
+“Sinai,” the locality of one of our walks. On the afternoon of the 6th,
+a small white bear showed himself near our house. We fired, and it fled
+over the young ice, leaving traces of blood behind it.
+
+Thus we had passed the shortest day without any serious danger.
+Christmas, that beautiful domestic festival, drew near, and we felt
+inclined, as we were all in good health, to keep it right festively in
+the proper spirit. During the last few days we had had violent storms.
+On Christmas Eve there was a heavy fall of snow which buried our house
+so completely, that in the morning we could walk over the roof as over
+a flat surface. In the night from the first to the second day of the
+holiday, showers of rain fell, followed by a south-westerly breeze.
+Then another whirlwind of snow. The mass of falling snow whirled over
+the field by the rushing wind was so great, that in the open air we
+could scarcely keep our eyes open, and in spite of our exertions, it
+was impossible to keep the front of our house clear.
+
+In the afternoon, whilst we went for a walk, the steersmen put up
+the Christmas-tree; and on our return the lonely coal-hut shone with
+wonderful brightness. Keeping Christmas on a Greenland floe! Made of
+pinewood and birchbroom, the tree was artistically put together. For
+the lights, Dr. Laube had saved some wax candles. Paper-chains and
+home-baked gingerbread were not wanting. The men had made a knapsack
+and a revolver case for the captain; we opened the leaden box of
+Christmas gifts from Professor Hochstetter, and the other from the
+Geological Reichsanstalt, which caused much merriment. Then we had a
+glass of port-wine, and fell upon the old newspapers in the boxes, and
+distributed the gifts, which consisted of small musical instruments,
+such as whistles, Jew’s-harps, and trumpets, also little puppets and
+games of roulette, cracker bonbons, &c. In the evening, chocolate and
+gingerbread-nuts. “In quiet devotion” (says Dr. Laube in his day-book),
+“the festival passed by; the thoughts which passed through our minds
+(they were much alike with all), I will not put down. If this should be
+the last Christmas we were to see, it was at least bright enough. If,
+however, we are destined for a happy return home, the next will be a
+brighter one; may God grant it!”
+
+Early on the 26th, we were awoke by a shout from the sailor on the
+watch. We were drifting to land! an island straight ahead of us! Amid
+universal consternation, all rushed out. The air was not clear, but
+about three nautical miles distant we could distinguish a dark mass,
+which looked like an island. The steersmen went somewhat in advance to
+reconnoitre the distance, and the nature of the appearance. The mass
+gave no indication whatever, and we soon made out that what we saw was
+an enormous iceberg. The next day we passed the drifting mass, moving
+much slower than our field, and soon lost sight of it. Saint Sylvester
+we kept up exactly as they do at home, with salvos of fire-arms and
+punch; and at midnight we did not forget mutual good wishes for the
+“New Year,” with the loud clink of the glasses.
+
+These good wishes, so often nothing but a polite formula, came here
+from the heart. Wonderful as our preservation in great dangers had been
+up to this time, we each felt how greatly we needed God’s support for
+the future, in strength, endurance, and health.
+
+The new year, at 16° Fahr., brought us the first clear, fine weather we
+had had for a long while. The land between north-east and south-west,
+was beautifully in sight; high sharp mountains and small glaciers. In
+the west-sou’-west we saw the dark outline of an island, the position
+of which was about 66° 14′ N.L. and 33° 45, W.L. as near as could be
+determined. The 2nd of January brought frightfully bad weather; storm
+from the northnor’-east and continual driving snow at 16° to 14° Fahr.
+In the morning, we thought we heard a peculiar rustling noise as if
+some one was shuffling his feet on the floor; but as it was soon over
+we took no further notice. In the afternoon, as we were resting after
+dinner, we suddenly heard the same rustle, but much louder. It was a
+scraping, blustering, crackling, sawing, grating, and jarring sound, as
+if some unhappy ghost was wandering under our floe. Perplexed we all
+jumped up, and went out; we thought that our store-house had fallen in.
+Some of the sailors going in front with the lamp carefully searched
+the path to it. But in whatever direction the light fell on the
+sparkling and glittering ice-walls, we saw nothing. Immovable hung the
+rigid icicles often a foot long; evidently nothing was amiss here. We
+rummaged in the snow-path before the house. Although completely snowed
+up (indeed, the whole house was buried more than a foot deep in ice),
+we all rushed out, but of course we could not see more than ten steps,
+nor hear anything but the howling of the storm. Still, between whiles,
+we could detect the same rubbing and grinding. For a change, we laid
+ourselves flat down with our ears to the floor, and could then hear a
+rustling like the singing of ice when closely jammed, and as if water
+was running under our great floe. There could be no doubt but that it
+stood in great danger of being smashed to pieces, either from drifting
+over sunken rocks and bursting up, or breaking against the ice border;
+perhaps both at once.
+
+We packed our furs, and filled our knapsacks with provisions. Our
+position, if the floe should be destroyed, seemed hopeless. Certainly
+ropes were fastened from the house to the boats lying about fifteen
+steps from us, so that, in case of a catastrophe, we might be able
+to reach them. But the driving snow was so terrible, that we could
+not have moved them from the spot, and we should no doubt, soon have
+sunk in the depths. At eight, we set a sharp watch of two men in the
+pathway. The remainder stretched themselves on the sacks to sleep, as
+the unearthly rustling was no longer heard. It was a long, stormy,
+fearful night, allowing no one to sleep. At nine the longed-for
+twilight appeared and an hour later the wind abated a little. Some of
+us went out in the direction of the quay; for thus we had christened
+the spot, 500 steps from the house, where the sunken Hansa lay. They
+there found a new wall of ice, and recognized to their horror that this
+wall was now the boundary of our floe, whilst on all sides of it large
+pieces had been broken off, and rose in dark shapeless masses out of
+the drifted snow. The bad weather lasted with undiminished violence
+till two in the afternoon. On the morning of the 4th of January it had
+completely worn itself out; the air was clear, and allowed an open view
+over the ice-field to the coast. Our floe had lost considerably in
+circumference, and changed its round form into a long one. The diameter
+which before was two nautical miles, was now at the utmost but one. On
+three sides, our house was only 200 steps from the edge of the floe.
+On the fourth it was about 1000 where before it had been 3000. The
+distance to the coast amounted to scarcely two nautical miles. Besides
+the island seen on the 1st of January, we caught a glimpse of several
+others with different pyramidically rising cliffs in the north-west. We
+named them the “New Year’s Islands,” as we had seen the first on the
+1st of January. They lay near the east cape of a deep bay which, from
+the never-to-be-forgotten danger we had passed through, we christened
+“Bay of Horrors.” In the background rose snow-covered mountains,
+which by the rising sun were lit up with a beautiful Alpine glow, and
+here and there in the bay were small glaciers visible. The extreme
+land to the south-west stood out as a steep cape, which we called
+Cape Buchholz; another to the west (Hildebrandt) was close to us,
+only two nautical miles off; that is the nearest land. We thus found
+ourselves in the mouth of the bay. After the dangers gone through, and
+as our ice-raft seemed to afford us less security than formerly, it
+was proposed that we should make an attempt to get to the coast with
+the boats, and sufficient provisions, so as to have some prospect of
+reaching the inhabited part of Greenland, the south-westerly side, in
+the mild time of year. But unfortunately, we found that we could get no
+further than the edge of our field. Short broken fragments succeeded,
+so covered over with snow, that one could see neither the gaps or
+crevasses. To get to the coast from here seemed impracticable, and, as
+before, our ice-field was our only means of deliverance.
+
+The following days were pretty good. We got the boats out of the snow,
+dug out the firewood, and made swimming jackets and snow-shoes out of
+cork, to prevent ourselves sinking up to the hips as we used to do.
+
+As we had already observed, and it now was confirmed, the pressing
+and the quick drifting of the ice depended on the spring-tides, which
+happen here from ten to fifteen hours after the new and full moon.
+
+On the 8th of January, we once more obtained an observation for
+position, and found we were in 66° 47·2′ N.L., and 34° 1·5′ W.L.,
+so that from the 27th of December, that is in twelve days, we had
+travelled 52½ nautical miles south-west to west three-quarter west. As
+we lay almost still in the bay, great and small icebergs floated out to
+sea coming from the north, on the highway from East Greenland to the
+south.
+
+On the 9th of January one of the sailors writes thus in his day-book:--
+
+             “Thursday, 9th of January, 1870. Northern Hotel.
+
+   “The weather in the past night was calm and clear. The moon
+   shone brilliantly; the northern lights and the stars glittered
+   upon the dead beauty of a landscape of ice and snow. Listening
+   at night, a strange, clear-sounding tone strikes the ear, then
+   again a sound as of some one drawing near with slow and measured
+   steps. We listen--who is it? All still! not a breath stirring!
+   Once more it sounds like a lamentation or a groan. It is the
+   ice; and now it is still, still as the grave, and from the pale
+   glance of the moon the ghastly-outlined coast is seen, from
+   which the giant rocks are looking over to us. Ice, rocks, and
+   thousands of glittering stars. O thou wonderfully ghost-like
+   night of the north!”
+
+The days from the 11th to the 15th of January were destined to bring
+us new horrors. On the 11th, heavy storm from the north-east with
+driving snow. At six in the morning Hildebrandt, who happened to
+have the watch, burst in with the alarm, “All hands turn out!” An
+indescribable tumult was heard without. With furs and knapsacks all
+rushed out. But the outer entrance was snowed up; so to gain the
+outside quickly we broke through the snow-roof of the front hall. The
+tumult of the elements which met us there was beyond anything we had
+already experienced. Scarcely able to leave the spot, we stood huddled
+together for protection from the bad weather. Suddenly we heard, “Water
+on the floe close by!” The floe surrounding us split up; a heavy sea
+arose. Our field again began to break on all sides. On the spot between
+our house and the piled-up store of wood which was about twenty-five
+paces distant, there suddenly opened a huge gap. Washed by the powerful
+waves, it seemed as if the piece just broken off was about to fall
+upon us; and at the same time we felt the rising and falling of our
+now greatly reduced floe. All seemed lost. From our split-up ice-field
+all the firewood was drifting into the raging sea. And in like manner
+we had nearly lost our boat Bismarck; even the whale-boat was obliged
+to be brought for safety into the middle of the floe. The large boat,
+being too heavy to handle, we were obliged to give up entirely. All
+this in a temp. of -9½°, and a heavy storm, was an arduous piece of
+work. The community were divided into two parts. We bade each other
+good-bye with a farewell shake of the hands, for the next moment we
+might go down. Deep despondency had taken hold of our scientific
+friends; the crew were still and quiet. Thus we stood or cowered by our
+boats the whole day, the fine pricking snow penetrating through the
+clothes to the skin. It was a miracle that just that part of the floe
+on which we stood should from its soundness keep together. Our floe,
+now only 150 feet in diameter, was the 35 to 40 feet nucleus of the
+formerly extensive field to which we had entrusted our preservation.
+Towards evening the masses of ice became closely packed again. At
+the same time the heavy sea had subsided and immediate danger seemed
+past. Relieved, we partook of something in the house and lay down,
+after setting a good watch. It was past midnight, when we were roused
+from our sleep by a cry of terror; the voice of the sailor on watch
+exclaiming, “Turn out; we are drifting on to a high iceberg!” All
+rushed to the entrance; dressed we always were; we had no time to run
+through the long snow passage, but burst open the roof, climbed on to
+the door, and so out. What a sight! Close upon us, as if hanging over
+our heads, towered a huge mass of ice, of giant proportions. “It is
+past,” said the captain. Was it really an iceberg, or the mirage of
+one, or the high coast? We could not decide the question. Owing to the
+swiftness of the drift, the ghastly object had disappeared the next
+moment.
+
+On the 12th and 13th, the weather was good. The boats, now that the
+masts and sails were thrown out, so that we could move them more
+easily, were put in order, and the snow shovelled up. On the 12th,
+we were able to ascertain our latitude by a lunar altitude. We found
+ourselves in 65° 50·7′ N.L., so that in four days we had drifted
+fifty-six miles southward.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 132._
+
+  ICEBERGS.]
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 133._
+
+  BIVOUAC IN BOATS.]
+
+It was on the evening of the 14th of January, at ten o’clock; outside
+blew a frightful storm; the watch came in with news that the ice was
+once more in motion. In the immediate neighbourhood of the house, our
+floe burst; and the broken ice flew high around us. It was high time
+to bring the boat Bismarck and the whale-boat more into the middle.
+This we did; but they were far too heavily laden to bring further.
+On this account, furs, sacks of bread, and clothing were taken out
+and packed on two sledges, which were, however, soon completely
+snowed up. All our labour was rendered heavier by the storm, which
+made it almost impossible to breathe. About eleven we experienced a
+sudden fissure which threatened to tear our house asunder; with a
+thundering noise an event took place, the consequences of which, in
+the first moments, deranged all calculations. God only knows how it
+happened that, in our flight into the open, none came to harm. But
+there in the most fearful weather we all stood roofless on the ice,
+waiting for daylight, which was still ten hours off. The boat King
+William lay on the edge of the floe, and might have floated away at any
+moment. Fortunately the fissure did not get larger. As it was somewhat
+quieter at midnight, most of the men crept into the captain’s boat,
+when the thickest sail we had was drawn over them; some took refuge
+in the house. But there, as the door had fallen in, they entered by
+the skylight, and in the hurry broke the panes of glass, so that it
+was soon full of snow. This night was the most dreadful one of our
+adventurous voyage on the floe. The cold was -9½° Fahr. Real sleep, at
+least in the boat, was not to be thought of; it was but a confused,
+unquiet, half-slumber, which overpowered us from utter weariness, and
+our limbs quivered convulsively as we lay packed like herrings in our
+furs. The cook had, in spite of all, found energy enough in the morning
+to make the coffee in the house, and never had the delicious drink
+awakened more exhausted creatures to life. The bad weather raged the
+whole day. We lay in the boat, half in water, half in snow, shivering
+with the frost, and wet to the skin. We also passed the night of the
+15th to the 16th, in the same comfortless position, and only on the
+morning of the 16th did the weather begin to mend, allowing us to
+leave the shelter of our asylum.
+
+At four in the morning, the second officer, to whom a longer stay in
+the boat was painful, caught sight of a star, and with a thankful
+heart brought us news of the good sign. The driving snow had not quite
+left off, but one could at least take breath. Our first steps were
+directed to the boat King William, which lay on the other side of the
+half-foot-broad fissure running through the house. It was brought to
+the flagstaff near the two other boats, which were fast frozen in,
+in spite of all the storm. We provided this conveyance with a roof
+of boards, covered with sail-cloth, and six of the men made it their
+sleeping apartment, whilst the house was cleared from the snow.
+
+For five nights we slept in the boats. The days to the 19th were
+employed, it being tolerable weather, in raising our settlement from
+its ruins, and laying the foundations of a necessary and satisfactory
+abode. Soon a wooden kitchen was built. A new dwelling-house, exactly
+like the one destroyed, but only half as big (14 feet long, 10 broad,
+6½ high in the middle), was built, with all requisite arrangements,
+store room, wooden beds, stove and window, and so on. Unfortunately the
+first night we moved in being stormy weather, the roof flew off; the
+inside was at once filled with snow, and we had to migrate to the boats
+once more. The mischief was repaired on the following day. As there
+was only sleeping room in our new house for six men, the rest from
+this time had to sleep in the boats. Throughout all the discomfort,
+want, hardship, danger of all kinds, the frame of mind among the men
+was good, undaunted, and exalted. The cook kept a right seamanlike
+humour, even in the most critical moments. As long as he had tobacco
+he made no trouble of anything. On the 3rd of January, during the
+frightful pressure of the ice which destroyed our floe, and threatened
+every minute to sink our house, the cook happened to be repairing the
+coffee-kettle. “If the floe would only hold together until he had
+finished his kettle! he wished so to make the evening tea in it, so
+that, before our departure, we might have something warm.”
+
+Toilet and cleanliness have long since become uncertain ideas with
+us. Washing is a luxury, which at the uttermost we can only allow
+ourselves twice a week, and which the scientific men have quite given
+up. The coal-walls of our house, smoke from the lamp, and dust from
+the stove have so blackened us, that we might be taken for some of the
+choicest Esquimaux. Hair and beard were intact from the time we left
+Bremen. Weeks have passed since the clothes have left our bodies. The
+temperature in the first three weeks of the new year, so pregnant with
+interest for us, may on the whole be thus characterized:--that, with
+northerly and north-easterly winds, which were generally accompanied
+by violently drifting snow, it was tolerably mild, between 23° F. and
+9° F., whilst the few clear days with a south and west wind brought
+us zero and 6° below. One of the weightiest causes of the powerful
+ice-pressure we had undergone, seemed to be, together with the
+temporary influence of the spring-tides, the fact that at this time we
+were in the narrow sea-passage between Iceland and Greenland, where
+the ice, carried on by the current (chiefly on account of the numerous
+prominent capes on the east coast of Greenland), must necessarily be
+pressed close. This movement, in its greatest strength, reached as far
+as Cape Dan, where the coast falls considerably backwards to the west;
+and on the east the boundary of Iceland recedes, thus causing the ice
+stoppage to cease. Later we met, farther southward from Cape Dan, a
+whole chain of icebergs drifting in a southerly direction. These had
+evidently been affected by the advance of successive masses of ice.
+
+On the 23rd, we could distinguish a hawk and a raven which flew over
+us, greeting them as messengers of our return to life. A remarkable
+phenomenon appeared about the end of January, in the snow-walls which
+rose around our floe. During the calm, the floating ice had become
+loosened, and the fissures and openings had been filled up with snow
+as fine as sand, in gigantic masses “like sheaves;” and when, on the
+25th, another close pressure of the ice began, the masses of snow rose
+in walls of from twenty to twenty-five feet high, changing the whole
+face of our settlement into that of a ravine. Of course, these snow
+enclosures were but of short duration; they broke up on the 1st of
+February, as soon as the spring-tide set the ice once more in motion,
+and soon melted quite away. On this occasion, a piece of our floe,
+which had been divided by a great fissure, broke off and drifted
+slowly away. We could then pretty well estimate the strength of it, as
+the water was very transparent, and the shining ice was perceptible
+at thirty to thirty-five feet deep. So we might hope, unless another
+crisis overtook us, that our floe’s firmness might last until it
+brought us into a latitude from which, by the boat, we might be able to
+reach the nearest West Greenland settlement.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VII.
+
+         POST NUBILA PHŒBUS. ABANDONMENT OF THE FLOE AND BOAT
+          JOURNEY TO THE ISLAND OF ILLUIDLEK. FEB. TO JUNE 4,
+                               1870.[16]
+
+   A Fox near the Hansa-house.--Rapid drift of our floe.--Open
+   water westwards.--Changed aspect of the coast.--A family of
+   seals.--Numerous glaciers on the coast.--Threatened danger from
+   an iceberg.--In the latitude of Nukarbik.--Linnets.--Carpenter
+   attacked by scurvy.--Keeping Easter Festival.--Considerable
+   advance of our floe in its southward drift.--Attractive
+   aspect of the coast.--The Puisortok glacier.--Walruses.--Bird
+   life.--Open water in the direction of land.--Determination
+   to quit the floe and take to the boats.--Preparations
+   therefor.--Departure.--Storm from the north.--Huge appetites
+   and scanty rations.--Excessive heat.--A fly.--Dragging
+   the boats towards the coast.--Excursion to the island
+   of Illuidlek.--Difficulty in dragging the boats over
+   the ice.--Anniversary of our departure from Bremen
+   harbour.--Prospects for the future.--Great exertions to
+   escape.--Landing on the island of Illuidlek on 4th June.
+
+
+On the 1st of February we caught a glimpse of some seals, the first
+we had seen for a long time; also a raven, and some various kinds of
+sea-gulls. The former came from the land, the latter from the sea. One
+morning, too, a fox appeared before our house. He stayed many days, and
+became so bold at last, that he would fetch the meat which had been
+thrown from the galley, and allow himself to be stroked. The creature
+caused us much fun. It never entered our heads to capture him.
+
+At four p.m. we passed Cape Dan, but the coast was too far distant for
+us to discern its outline distinctly.
+
+For the next few days we drifted at the speed of one nautical mile an
+hour, passing numerous huge icebergs, some more than 100 feet high,
+without receiving any injury to our floe. Before such a mountain the
+currents of course divided, the water rushing on either side. With
+this current our floe regularly went from twenty to twenty-five paces
+either to the right or left of the monster, and thus happily passed it.
+Bade and Hildebrandt made an attempt to climb one of these icebergs,
+but under ever increasing difficulties only succeeded in getting half
+way up. “Then the smooth, white walls rose so steep, that we might
+just as well have tried to climb the bare outer wall of a church
+tower.” Fragments of the mighty glaciers of Greenland forced out to sea
+“calves” of the same, these icebergs resemble huge basaltic rocks in
+all shades of white and blue.
+
+On the 6th of February, according to our reckoning, we ought to be near
+Dan Island. As, however, we could not see it, we naturally concluded
+that it had no existence, and that the marking of it on Graah’s chart
+must rest upon the fact that, icebergs being so numerous here, they
+must have mistaken one for an island.
+
+  [Illustration: ICEBERG WITH REFRACTION NEAR CAPE LÖWENÖRN.]
+
+February passed quietly; the weather throughout was fine. Floating
+ice and icebergs, which were more numerous than ever, left our floe
+undiminished; we supplemented many of our arrangements, and above all
+gained more confidence in our future. With regard to our possessions
+and effects, we have become very indifferent. The most costly books are
+torn up for the most trifling purposes. The gilded frame of our cabin
+looking-glass has long since been used as firewood, and the glass
+thrown on one side. Streams of petroleum and brandy flow in the course
+of heating the stove; packets of tobacco furnish a welcome means of
+warmth. Why is gunpowder of no use to us? We like letting it off in
+fireworks for our pleasure, and to pass away the time! Only one event,
+which happened about the beginning of March, grieved us sadly; our
+Dr. Buchholz, who until now had shown himself courageous and resolute
+in all moments of danger, became melancholy, and a nervous disorder
+developed itself, which he never lost until he returned home. Of course
+we did all we could for him; but our position on the floe, and later
+in the boats, without medical advice, was of that kind that we were
+unable to follow up any means of cure whatever.
+
+Middle of February, in 64° 40′ N.L., and about twenty nautical miles
+from land, we saw, in a westerly direction, and running parallel with
+the coast for about eight nautical miles, a strip of open water. It
+was evidently of considerable breadth, and seemed to reach nearly to
+the land, for with a westerly wind came up a strong swell. With an
+east wind, on the contrary, it remained calm; and we might therefore
+conclude that towards the east the ice lay densely packed. The coast
+landscape has become less wild; it looks as though people might be
+living there. The sun, which now stands seventeen degrees high on the
+meridian, begins to have some power. It begins to feel quite like
+summer. Off with the furs, and the cramped up sleeves! the men now go
+about with bare throats and chests.
+
+Beautiful northern lights brighten the night. Like the leaves of a fan
+or a flower, the sheaves of light unroll themselves over the heavens.
+Its pole seems to lie exactly over our house.
+
+March brought abundant snow, and gave us but few cheerful days. Once
+we drifted within a short distance of a small iceberg about sixty feet
+high, on the top plateau of which we could see a seal family. The
+wife had evidently in this retirement made her lying-in bed; At four
+p.m. on the distant horizon, owing to the glistening ice-blink, the
+“Kolberger-Heide” glacier became visible twenty-five nautical miles
+from us. On approaching it we could see from there, as far down as Cape
+Moesting, one uninterrupted row of glaciers, which seemed to reach down
+to the sea. The intervening towering rocks were about 3000 feet high.
+In the neighbourhood were countless icebergs, some of which were fast
+to the ground. We passed through the middle of them; and on the 19th,
+drifting swiftly along within six nautical miles from land, we nearly
+ran on to one. When, however, we were within twenty-five paces from the
+monster, the ice-current stopped, and for three hours we lay completely
+still. Then the ice loosened once more, and the journey began quicker
+than before. A collision, perhaps the total destruction of our floe,
+seemed imminent; for twenty minutes we were in the greatest danger,
+and looked on at the grand spectacle with breathless attention. The
+nearest part of the berg was a firm, connected mass. Farther on its
+build, under the combined influence of sun and water, had been worn
+into magnificent cliffs and gateways. On the south side was an aperture
+which seemed broad and high enough to hold a ship as large as the
+Hansa. As we came nearer the mass, we suddenly saw directly above
+us numerous points and jagged spikes; one projecting angle indeed
+we could grasp. “We are lost!” such was the thought of each of us.
+But--wonderful! our floe was unshaken; it did not even graze it. Small
+pieces of floating ice which surrounded it served both as “fender” and
+protector to our raft from this fatal collision. The berg once behind
+us, we drifted for some time in open water, which had collected itself
+here as in the wake of a ship.
+
+On the 18th of March, in latitude 64° 2′, we took our longitude. By the
+chronometer it was 40° 44′ W. According to the Coast Survey, however,
+it was 40° O′ W. So that the land on Graah’s chart is carried 44′ too
+far to the east.
+
+On the 29th of March, to our great joy, we found ourselves in the
+latitude of Nukarbik. Was it on this island that Graah wintered from
+the 3rd of September, 1829, to the 5th of April, 1830; and where his
+troublesome and dangerous boat journey to the north was broken off? We
+had long nourished the hope of starting from here on a boat voyage to
+Friedrichsthal, the most southerly settlement on the western coast,
+though the ice lay so thick that two sailors asked permission to go
+on land. Fortunately the captain refused his consent; for a few hours
+later a change set in, which would have rendered it fearfully difficult
+for the men to have reached us again. On the evening of the 29th of
+March we thought we saw a fire on shore, and conjectured that it came
+from an Esquimaux settlement. We therefore sent up some rockets, and
+the next day hoisted our flag; but eventually we saw nothing but some
+snow-buntings and ravens. The latter came regularly every morning from
+the land to the sea, and returned at sunset. In the Bight of Nukarbik
+we had an unwilling stay of four weeks. We found ourselves two to
+three nautical miles from land. Whilst farther out the ice drifted
+southward without interruption, our floe tacked now to the south, now
+to the north. This was caused by the course of the current which ran
+close under the coast. The wind did not affect it, for we sometimes
+drove right against it. The coast is here deeply indented by three
+important Fjords. At the flood these land openings exert great strength
+of attraction, and our floe neared them. The ebb drew us back again;
+the next tide renewed the forward motion, and thus for weeks together
+we were the sport of the currents. At this time the spring flood of
+the 3rd of April passed over without any remarkable effect. The 12th
+being a bright day, the opportunity presented itself of observing the
+ebb and tide. We lay near an iceberg, which measured 120 feet high, was
+estimated at 180 in breadth and 200 in length. From ten a.m. until four
+p.m. the current set us slowly towards an iceberg surrounded by a strip
+of water, sometimes so near that we tried to push ourselves from it by
+poles. During this time we observed that the flood had risen two feet
+to the easily discernible high-water mark on the berg. At four p.m.
+the water again began to sink, and we floated back. We could hear the
+hissing and thundering of the ice floes falling after the ebb headlong
+from the banks. Small flights of linnets and snow-buntings visited us.
+We threw them some oat-groats, which they greedily devoured; at the
+same time being so tame, that we could catch them with the hand. In the
+middle of April a slight attack of scurvy attacked one of our men, the
+carpenter, whose leg was much swollen. We applied some simple remedies,
+made him take plenty of exercise, and he was soon restored.
+
+The Easter Festival fell at the time we lay floating backwards and
+forwards in the Bay of Nukarbik. We spent it cheerfully, in health,
+and full of hope of eventual preservation out of all danger and want;
+to us it was indeed a real Resurrection Festival. Had we not often
+had death before our eyes in its most threatening form? Nature, too,
+began to show signs of approaching spring; the air was considerably
+milder, the lowest temperature in the night 23° Fahr.; in the sunshine,
+which we often enjoyed while stretched upon the sails of the boats,
+the thermometer rose to 54½° Fahr. On the first festival day (17th
+of April) we had a good meal, preserved meat made into soup, ham,
+kidney beans, peas, and a bottle of sherry, which we had carefully
+kept until this day. On the second, we were to be released from our
+unwelcome position between the steep reddish-brown retreating cliffs
+of Cape Moltke and the low island of Nukarbik. A storm from the north
+gave to the motion of our floe a seaward direction, and we once more
+floated southward. The next three weeks brought us a long way forward,
+for this part of our voyage began on the 18th in 63° 30′ N.L., and on
+the 6th of May we found ourselves in 61° 4′, almost in the latitude
+of Bergen. During this stage, as speedy as it was free from danger,
+the evolutions of the ice-floes afforded us much interest, and our
+spirits rose immensely. The coast, with its many branching mountain
+chains, which on the southern side were mostly free from snow, its
+Fjords, creeks, islands, and capes formed a highly pleasing prospect.
+Grand was the appearance of the “Puisortok” glacier, a mighty ice-field
+extending thirty nautical miles along the coast, from which protruded
+the yellowish rocky masses of Cape Steen Bille. On the 25th, we saw a
+seal, lying on a floe, whilst from the land a bear with stealthy steps
+was nearing it; but the seal soon detected the threatened danger, and
+quickly disappeared. Linnets and snow-buntings are no longer rare.
+Fearless and confiding, these small birds seem to like the approach of
+men. “Some of them,” so says Bade’s day-book, “will almost perch upon
+our noses, and in five minutes allowed themselves to be caught three
+times.”
+
+Still no open water! During the first days of May it rained heavily;
+the snow melting, the path to our house became a ruin; its roof leaked
+like a sieve, and the house itself, which formerly stood in a valley,
+was now upon a hill! We were obliged to prop it up. From the continued
+thaw a heap of things came to light which we thought were lost. Among
+them was the carpenter’s chest.
+
+Even on the 6th of May we had no idea that we should be able to leave
+our floe on the following day, much less meet with all sorts of
+provisions, which would be useful to our frail settlement destined to
+destruction. After the continued rain of the last few days, we broke
+up the remainder of the snow-path round the house entirely, and tried
+to give additional firmness to our falling dwelling with the laths and
+supports which were thereby set at liberty. These we drove into the
+floe on the outer side of the house, and bound together high above it
+with ropes, so that it was thoroughly laced in. Between these supports
+and the house wall we stuffed sail-cloth to keep out the draught and
+rain. The galley, which was fastened to the flagstaff, had lost its
+bottom through the thaw, and slanted sideways in the air. We loosened
+it from this aimless connexion and stood it once more on the snow.
+
+  [Illustration: AN ICEBERG.]
+
+  [Illustration: HUNTING THE POLAR BEAR.]
+
+On the morning of the 7th we were agreeably surprised to see open
+water in the direction of land. A stiff south-easter had cleared the
+sky during the night, and in the grey morning the watch heard through
+the fog a rushing and roaring sound, which could be nothing but the
+sea. The thought had now to be seriously entertained as to whether the
+time had not come for our release from the floe. And it had come. Wind
+and weather remained favourable. The strip of water in the south-west
+came nearer and nearer, the wind separating masses of small floes
+and driving them northwards. At half-past twelve the captain, after
+having uninterruptedly observed the ice and the weather for some time,
+decided, with the agreement of all the officers, that according to his
+opinion, the moment had come when they should leave the floe and try to
+save themselves by reaching the coast in the boats. But he did not wish
+to bear the entire responsibility of such an important step, believing
+that if the abandonment of the floe and the taking to the boats were
+decided upon with unanimous consent, or at least with that of the
+majority of his comrades, their prospect of ultimate preservation
+would be greatly enhanced by increased individual exertions. How well
+founded this opinion was, time would prove. It was also found that
+this day’s observations gave a latitude of 61° 12′; more northerly
+than that of yesterday, as on the 6th we were in 61° 4′. This view of
+the captain’s therefore received unlimited approbation, Dr. Laube only
+showing some hesitation, which was overruled. Our decision stood firm.
+After a hasty mid-day meal we at once began to clear the boats. This
+was troublesome work. First we took out all the provisions, clothing,
+sails, masts, oars, instruments, and so forth, so that the boats
+might be hauled empty over three floes; and the whole of the contents
+were carried after them, partly on sledges and partly on the back,
+and they were again reladen. In feverish haste and impatience this
+work was accomplished, and in three hours all was ready. We took one
+last thankful look at our faithful floe; through numerous dangers and
+calamities, from the region of terror and death, it had borne us here
+in 200 days, into a more hospitable latitude; and now filled with fresh
+courage we might hope for a speedy release.
+
+  [Illustration: THE BOAT BISMARCK.]
+
+It was about four p.m. as with three hearty cheers we set sail.
+The community were divided amongst the boats in the following
+manner:--The whale-boat, which was commanded by Captain Hegemann,
+took the two scientific men, the cook, and the sailors Philipp Heine
+and Bernhard Gätjen. The boat Bismarck was commanded by the first
+officer, Hildebrandt; under him were the two sailors Paul Tilly and
+Heinrich Büttner. The large boat King William was commanded by the
+second officer, Bade; and the carpenter, Wilhelm Böwe, Fritz Kewell,
+Max Schmidt, and Conrad Gierke constituted the crew. We sailed until
+nine p.m., at first slowly, but after we had stowed away better, more
+rapidly; so that upon hauling the boat up on a floe, we had left seven
+nautical miles behind us. This hauling up was a hard bit of work. After
+finding a low spot and first emptying the boat, we lifted it on to the
+floe by swinging it backwards and forwards, and then when it came up
+the third time, with a strong pull at the painter a part was raised on
+to the ice, and afterwards the whole was hauled up. The provisions and
+other equipments of each boat were stacked up close by, and covered
+over with the oilskin. The missing sail-roof of the boat King William
+had to be replaced by the insufficient protection afforded by the
+boat-sail. Some hours sped by at this work. The evening meal consisted
+of hard bread and coffee, which the men prepared in the boats by means
+of the spirit-lamp. At length, at half-past twelve, we laid down on
+our furs to sleep; and at half-past five the next morning, we got
+up again. Sailing in a westerly direction brought us to within four
+nautical miles from the land. At twelve at noon, however, the ice was
+so dense that we were obliged to pull up at a floe. On this piece of
+ice, drifting slowly southward, we rested in our boats until five p.m.
+The sun’s warm rays did us good, but they also produced that painful
+evil, snow-blindness. Besides which, from the constant looking-out
+against the wind for the chance of seeing the entrance to a channel,
+the eyes were so affected that they could not bear the blinding white
+of the light upon the glistening ice-fields. First a great weariness is
+felt, and then a burning in the eye, which soon mounts to unbearable
+pain. The eye waters violently, and the head is affected. There is
+then little else to do but to wait patiently, and fasten a cloth over
+the eyes to keep out every ray of light. After one and a half to two
+days the suffering is over, but one must be careful of a relapse.
+This sickness shows itself in many different forms. Some people
+suffer often and most violently from it, others only find their eyes
+slightly affected. Later, we tried to guard ourselves by making the
+green shading-glasses of the telescope into snow-spectacles. By this
+sensible improvised help, and others which we found, we were able to
+provide each with this, for an Arctic voyage, most necessary article.
+Our sailing journey, which at first was through dense ice, had brought
+us by the evening one and a half nautical miles nearer, when suddenly
+there fell a calm, and the floes before us had packed themselves into
+an impenetrable mass. The above-described work of hauling up the boats
+exhausted our strength again considerably; and after enjoying some
+coffee and bread, we fell into a deep sleep, dead tired. Bad weather,
+fall of snow and storm, kept us fixed six days more to the floe. The
+temperature changed from 36½° Fahr. by day, to 21° Fahr. by night.
+
+  [Illustration: AN ICEBERG.]
+
+Yesterday, the 10th of May, in the afternoon, we played our usual game
+at whist in the whale-boat. Our boat-sail (that belonging to the King
+William), which serves as a roof during the night, from its lightness
+and transparency keeps but little of the wet off; the rain has dropped
+gently upon us for now nearly twenty-four hours, as from the rose of
+a watering-pot. The other boats are better off in this respect, as
+they have oil-cloth sail coverings. The day ended, Mr. Hildebrandt
+and his people came to us in the large boat, for company and also for
+any alcohol and provisions that we could spare, with which we were
+better provided. There were therefore eight men to feed in the large
+boat. In the morning we boiled a kettle of coffee, and ate a piece of
+dry bread with it. The mid-day meal consisted of a portion of soup,
+and the meat boiled in it. In the evening a drink of cocoa refreshed
+us, of course without either milk or sugar. We had to be economical
+with our provisions; for if we had to lie quiet much longer, hunger
+would knock sharper at the door. Our appetite is extraordinary, but
+easily accounted for, as the diet of fresh meat and fat, which is
+indispensable to this climate, had to be sparingly weighed out in
+scales which we manufactured for the occasion. The store of bacon is
+reckoned at 6 lbs. per head; besides which, there are two hams.
+
+At last, on the 14th, the bad weather broke up, the ice opened towards
+the evening for a short distance southwards, and we rowed to an
+iceberg; when, however, close under its walls, the cold was so intense
+that we tried to row round it. As we could not succeed, we retreated
+as fast as possible from this uncomfortable neighbour; and that just
+at the right time, for the open water closed behind us once more, and
+again we saw ourselves condemned to another five days’ existence on the
+floe. Our latitude was 61° 1′.
+
+  [Illustration: THE LOOK-OUT.]
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 155._
+
+  DRAGGING THE BOATS TO THE ILLUIDLEK ISLAND.]
+
+“Up to yesterday morning, 29th of May” (so it runs in the pilot Bade’s
+day-book), “uninterrupted storm from the north with snow; ice dense,
+land not often discernible, temperature not under 32° Fahr., mostly
+32.5° to 41° Fahr.; not moved from the spot; very wearisome; banished
+to the boat, as we must not get wet. Each one passes the time as well
+as he can. Mr. Hildebrandt makes sketches of our boats on and between
+the ice; Fritz, as cook of the large boat, makes experiments on his
+fire apparatus in order to insure the greatest economy; Konrad composes
+poems; the carpenter relates Vegesack stories, and how as captain
+of a gunboat he sailed by the help of a chart of the Mediterranean
+from Bremen to Hull, and how by means of soundings he found himself
+at Ramsgate; I studied Heine’s poems, or carved boats, and so on;
+Max tried his hand at drawing. Yesterday it gave over snowing; we
+reviewed our provisions and divided them equally. We have about 27
+lbs. of bread per man, 5 lbs. of bacon, some coffee and cocoa, which
+we hope will last us quite a month. Our appetite is boundless, and
+the scanty rations to which we are restricted, prevent us from ever
+feeling satisfied. I have made a small pair of scales, in which I
+weigh the bread to my crew; the bacon I cut by my eye in pretty equal
+pieces, which is then given out by call to the men. This is always an
+exciting moment; all eyes brighten at the sight of the bacon, and a
+piece of bread is looked upon as tenderly as the finest confection.
+Fritz pretends to have discovered that one feels much more satisfied by
+bolting the little one eats, and not biting it much: it seems to last
+longer! We almost look our eyes out after a seal. Oil and fresh meat
+would be a delicious addition to our provisions. It is a peculiar and
+very mixed feeling, to think that in six weeks we shall have nothing to
+eat; if then we have not reached the land, we must drop off one after
+the other; but serious as is the thought, there are times when it seems
+irresistibly comical. Of tobacco we have plenty, and a good portion
+is consumed every day. Fritz is making himself a new pipe. To-day,
+the 19th of May, is again lovely weather. Whilst I am writing this at
+half-past nine a.m., the warmth is 72½° Fahr. The heat is oppressive,
+the wind calm, the ice quite dense. In such weather it ought soon go
+to pieces. With the telescope we can see the torrents falling from the
+steep overhanging rocks on land; fresh water we find everywhere on the
+floe. Melting the snow is, thank God, over now. Our health is good,
+only Dr. Buchholz is still suffering. Our eyes have improved these
+last few days by sparing their use. The temperature of the sea-water
+is 31° Fahr., that of the fresh water on the floe 32° Fahr. At this
+moment, I am hearing much astonishment expressed over a fly which has
+settled on the sails; in reality, a welcome sign. The month of May is,
+however, no month of delight to us here. Setting aside the mild
+temperature and the brightness, it differs but little from January,
+resembling it in the continued northern storms. Real nights we have now
+no longer; the sun rises at three o’clock and sets shortly before nine;
+the intermediate period is half twilight. The time must be near for
+the birds to choose their quarters and lay their eggs. This east coast
+of Greenland is, indeed, a dead, deserted neighbourhood; and one may
+judge how difficult it is to get at, as, had our lives depended upon
+it, we could not once have reached it with the boats.” As no change
+took place in the position of the ice, we resolved to drag our boats to
+the Island of Illuidlek, about three miles distant,[17] which we were
+obliged to admit was hard work. We began on the evening of the 20th.
+The tow-line which we had made for the purpose during the winter, was
+made fast through the thole-holes; and we harnessed ourselves to it by
+a band round the shoulders. Only 300 steps did we advance. Snow fell
+plentifully, but soon turned to water, so that in our night-quarters
+in the boat we suffered much from the damp. On the afternoon of the
+21st, the weather cleared. The captain and Mr. Hildebrandt undertook a
+ramble in the direction of land. They found the ice but little adapted
+for our purpose, nothing but burst fragments, high towering floes, and
+huge blocks; there were but few fields, and those not more than 100
+paces in extent. It seemed almost impossible to pull the boats through
+these labyrinths of ice to the land; and we were obliged to agree to
+wait for the working of the spring-floods, which would take place in
+a few days. The time seemed dreadfully long. Some sailors practised
+wood-carving. We amused ourselves with the chess-board and carving the
+pieces; Bade worked at a king in robes and crown; others turned to some
+useful employment, such as twisting fishing-lines eighty fathoms long,
+in the hope of hauling up a cod fish wherewith to enrich our pitiful
+meals.
+
+The 24th of May was glorious weather. The sun shone on us from a
+cloudless sky, and where its rays fell the thermometer was 96° Fahr. It
+was a welcome opportunity of drying our washing and clothes thoroughly,
+which had been in a chronic state of wet, and we eagerly embraced it.
+The boats, too, were laid open, and steamed under the heat of the sun.
+All the men turned out. Mr. Bade, the purser, mindful of his duty, was
+with some of the men hunting for something for dinner. But, alas! seals
+would not show themselves, fishes would not take the bacon-bait, and
+the stupid northern-divers were at all events clever enough to keep
+beyond the reach of shot. A successful attempt to reach the Island of
+Illuidlek, which was about three miles distant, and lay from 140 to
+150 yards high, was made by Mr. Hildebrandt and the sailors Philipp
+and Paul. After three hours’ exertion, at about one o’clock, they set
+foot on firm ground. They were with us again by four o’clock. Their
+return was quicker. In the sailor Heine’s day-book it says:--“The fine
+weather has lasted. Mr. Hildebrandt, Paul, and I tried to get to land;
+we succeeded with great difficulty. We ran more than we walked, and
+sometimes sank deep in the snow. We perspired all over, and the water
+ran into our boots, so that we had to empty them continually and wring
+our stockings. The island showed no signs of vegetation, fell steep
+and often perpendicularly down, and had many fissures and gaps. The
+southern part seemed more accessible, but we had to hurry our return,
+and were therefore obliged to give up further investigation.” Heine
+further reports, as we were led to expect from Graah’s observations,
+that a small strip of water ran along the land, formed by the torrents
+falling from the coast. On this swam a few divers. They succeeded
+in passing this water by standing on a floe, and by means of the
+boat-hooks pushed themselves from one piece of ice to the other.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 157._
+
+  COAST TO THE SOUTH OF ILLUIDLEK.]
+
+The desert, rocky Island of Illuidlek is about ten nautical miles
+in circumference. They landed on the north-east side at a spot from
+which, by the help of the boats, they could easily reach the south
+coast, where we might hope to find protection from the wind and ice
+drift. There also seemed a prospect of increasing our provisions by
+hunting sea-birds. This, on the whole favourable report, was given in
+the captain’s boat, in the presence of the officers and Dr. Laube, and
+it served to strengthen our resolution to try with all our might for
+a temporary refuge on this lonely island. No sooner said than done.
+As the warmth of the sun was already very fatiguing when we were at
+work, and as in addition to that most of us had not yet recovered from
+snow-blindness, we agreed, weather permitting, to drag the boats by
+night and rest by day. In this way we hoped to be on land in eight
+days. Observations of the 24th of May gave 60° 59.8′ N.L.
+
+Double altitude of the sun’s limb, 86° 25′ 40″. Chronometer, 12h.
+21m. 15s. p.m.; reading of the chronometer, 13m. 30.6s., giving the
+longitude 43° 10.1′ W. According to Graah’s chart, however, it should
+be 42° 20′ W., resulting in an error in the latter of about 50m.[18] A
+later comparison of our chronometer with that of the royal Danish brig
+Constance, gave an error to us of--35.4s., whereby our longitudinal
+observation would require nine minutes more. The first night with
+great exertion we advanced 530 paces; seven a.m. fall of snow; rested
+until eight p.m. Mr. Hildebrandt and Max had a severe attack of
+snow-blindness, and were obliged to remain quiet in the boat while we
+pulled it. We were doubtful whether it would not be better to leave the
+heavy boat King William behind, but we still dragged it on with us, as
+we hoped to find it of great use on our journey by water.
+
+The 28th was a clear day. We were able to dry our things once more,
+and find a path for our dragging the next night. By seven a.m. we had
+gained 700 paces, when it again began to snow. Dragging is fearfully
+tiring work, and makes but slow progress, particularly when the boats
+have to be hauled now over high lumps of ice, now over places where the
+water is only covered with loose snow, on which occasions it does not
+give merely wet feet, but an entire bath. Dr. Laube is very fortunate
+that way. I have but one pair of boots, which are so torn with the ice,
+that the water runs unhindered in and out. Having once reached our
+goal, stockings and shoes are off at once, and the naked feet put into
+the fur sleeping-sack, where they soon get warm. Fortunately, each of
+us has about three pairs of stockings to change; though in this damp
+weather they dry badly, and often enough we can only wring them and put
+them on again stone cold as they are. We have borne it well up to this
+time, but I fear for the consequences. The temperature is seldom below
+32° Fahr.
+
+The 27th was Konrad’s birthday. To raise their spirits somewhat, I
+gave my men a glass of sherry--a festive luxury in our poverty, as our
+whole store consisted of one bottle of sherry and one of rum. That we
+might sit dry, we borrowed the oilskin coats from the “Hope,” and hung
+them up under our sail, which is very thin and lets the rain through,
+so that we are much better off. The carpenter, thank God, is recovered
+from his scurvy. Our neighbour, the iceberg, has also changed its form.
+In the night one side of it fell with a thundering crash. When all is
+quiet, we can hear from the land the splitting of the perpendicular
+walls. The nights are light; real darkness we have none, and the
+twilight, which breaks about twelve, resembles that of our own summer
+evenings at half-past nine. Water for cooking and drinking we find
+plentifully on the floe after the rain, and this is acceptable, as our
+brandy would soon come to an end if we had to melt the snow. “To-day we
+have been on our way with the boats twenty-one days, and to-day it is
+exactly a year since I left home; what may have happened there since
+then? Will the next news be sad or joyful? What have we accomplished in
+this time? what endured? When shall we again see our beloved country?
+We all naturally hope for a return.” (Bade’s day-book.)
+
+The work is getting more difficult. First the boats have to be
+emptied, and pulled to the spot where our next day’s rest is to be
+taken, while we frequently have to go over walls of ice, the slipping
+downwards being often more difficult than the pulling up. Then the
+boats tip over in the snow, or get caught behind a piece of ice, when
+it costs us untold trouble to get them free again. Then, again, we have
+to go over rifts in the ice, and weary ourselves over places where it
+has fallen in. When this difficult manœuvre is happily accomplished,
+all the things must be put in again. At this work each has to carry
+from 100 to 105 lbs. weight; and one can imagine that, as with this
+burden we now sink deep into snow or snow-water, and now have to
+climb over closely-packed fragments of floes, all that is not really
+necessary is left behind. On the night of the 30th to the 31st of May,
+we left the longest distance behind us yet accomplished, viz. 1200
+paces. As we had drawn two boats to their destination, the captain,
+who had been leading and energetic the whole night, and also active in
+dragging the boats, fainted.
+
+In all this galling work hunger tormented us; and if night gave us
+sweet dreams of tables richly provided with food, on awaking, our
+murmuring, grumbling stomachs soon brought us back to reality.
+
+Beginning of June, uninterrupted storms from the north, and fall of
+rain as from a bowl since the last three days and nights. Our bad,
+thin sail can scarcely stand the drops which fall like lead upon
+it. Truly we in the King William are not to be envied. Our rations,
+too, are getting scantier than ever! As there is not even a distant
+prospect of increasing our provisions, our meals are reduced to two in
+twenty-four hours; and every morning at nine I give each a quarter of
+a pound of bread and a small bit of bacon, and at six in the evening
+the same weight of bread, and to all a half-ration of cold soup with
+meat in it. In the morning we could still have a drink of coffee; but
+in the evening cocoa only. Our brandy disappeared rapidly; if we did
+not soon kill a seal, to supply oil for fuel, we should be obliged
+to give up warm food. Thus one can imagine that we are plagued with
+a continual and never-satisfied wolf’s craving. The bread-bag and
+remainder of the bacon I have always by my side for safety’s sake. The
+conversation turns upon nothing but eating. Max only wishes he was in
+the Exchange Restaurant at Bremen; Konrad would be contented with a
+juicy beefsteak with some eggs, and maintains that he could at once
+demolish twenty-five eggs with one pound of butter and sixpennyworth of
+bread; at the same time, the eye falls upon the clock and counts the
+hours which must still pass before the scanty meal will recur.
+
+And how quietly and devotedly is the meal then taken! how busy is each
+trying to stifle the gnawing hunger, if only for a short time! If one
+could only get rid of the burdensome feeling by sleep! But scarcely
+does sleep come than the water leaks on to our faces, or one of the
+coats on the roof glides from the edge of the boat, scattering the
+whole of its watery contents upon us.
+
+Konrad was quite sad this morning; in his sleep he had consumed a
+portion of ham and some poached eggs one after the other, but on waking
+felt so dreadfully hollow within. The wet cold air of 39° Fahr. in
+the boat is very disagreeable; we shiver unceasingly. It is really
+wonderful that we are so well, though we feel that our strength is
+diminishing. When will open water, either to sail or row in, appear
+before us? Shall we even now, after so many dangers and difficulties
+overcome, be destined to a miserable end? Before yesterday the ice
+pushed and got into motion, probably on account of the spring-tide and
+the storm, but it packed itself closer than ever, and did not open
+again. It is to be hoped we shall soon have better weather. We have
+moved somewhat nearer the island, whether to our advantage or not we do
+not know.
+
+At length, on the 4th of June, we succeeded in landing on Illuidlek.
+This day we dragged the boats 2000 paces in thirteen hours, and at
+eight p.m. we were able to launch them.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VIII.
+
+          JOURNEY ALONG THE COAST OF GREENLAND FROM ILLUIDLEK
+                  TO FRIEDRICHSTHAL. JUNE, 1870.[19]
+
+   Description of the Island.--Arrival in the Bay of “Hansa
+   Haven.”--Departure for Friedrichsthal.--Desert appearance of
+   the coast.--The cliffs near Cape Hvidtfeldt.--Vegetation and
+   landscape scenery.--Excursion to the Island of Sedlevik.--A
+   Swiss landscape in Greenland.--The Bay of Friedrichsthal.--Men
+   upon the shore.--The Moravian Mission-colony of
+   Friedrichsthal.--Dwelling-houses in Friedrichsthal.--Hospitable
+   reception.--The natives.--Preparations for returning
+   home.--Commercial dealings with Denmark.--Travelling in
+   Greenland.--The Esquimaux village.--East-Greenlander
+   frightened.--West-Greenlander.--Beer in Greenland.
+
+
+The small Island of Illuidlek extends in its longer axis from
+south-east to north-west. A dome-shaped, steep declivity to the
+north-west, to the south-east a sloping mountain, form centres round
+which cluster a crowd of wild rugged cliffs. A small strait separates
+the island from the smaller Ivimiut lying before it, and Cape
+Discord.[20] Inland extends a long chain of rocks, a very quickset
+hedge, the innermost end of which forms a small low island, which we
+took for that called Omenarsuk on Graah’s map. Naked and bare of all
+vegetation, these grotesque rocks rise into the air. The inhabitants
+of the island, a pair of lonely gulls, watched with evident curiosity
+from a rift in the rocks the arrival of the strange visitors, and some
+guillemots fluttered piping around the open water of the strait. It was
+between the south-east point of the island, Cape Discord, and the small
+Island of Ivimiut. About ten o’clock we lay in a bay protected from
+the north wind, and surrounded by high rocks, which we called “Hansa
+Haven.” Here we wished to pass the night, and had already brought our
+things to shore with that intention, when the tide fell and our boat
+grounded; we therefore left the bay at about twelve at night, pulling
+up at a piece of ice lying not far from the land. It was now exactly
+four weeks since our departure from the floe, which we had left with
+such confident hope of reaching the neighbouring shore in a few days.
+
+Whitsunday, glorious weather! Messrs. Hildebrandt and Bade went hunting
+in the boat Bismarck. They brought home a small bag of twenty-two
+divers, the flesh of which, prepared as a stew, provided us with two
+excellent mid-day meals. This, however, only helped for the moment;
+and we had, at the utmost, only provisions for fourteen days! The
+hunters had been in the upper part of the island. They saw along the
+southern coast a small strip of water. “Everywhere we find nothing but
+bare barren cliffs, the higher the wilder, sparingly clothed with moss
+and stunted willows. But no trace of human inhabitants!” Illuidlek,
+where Graah fell in with some natives,[21] seems to have been long
+uninhabited.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 164._
+
+  THE BOATS UNDER SAIL.]
+
+On the second day, the 6th of June, we started again. Our aim
+was Friedrichsthal, the nearest colony on the south-west coast of
+Greenland. But we reckoned upon soon meeting one or the other of the
+Esquimaux seal-boats searching the Fjord. We worked, pushing and
+rowing laboriously, up the Kangerdleck Fjord, then struck straight
+across, and rowed and cruised about from six o’clock, at which time the
+ice loosened a little, until eleven in the evening, against a hard,
+south-west wind. The Island of Omenarsuk scarcely rises 125 feet above
+the sea, and yet on its north side shows a spot only a few square feet
+in size, which is covered with fresh-water ice, and looks exactly
+like a diminutive glacier. From its position it could not possibly be
+an ice-block hurled there; besides, it was fresh water, ice from the
+snow which had been frozen in the ravines of the island. This inland
+ice-formation in such small masses against the neighbouring powerful
+ice-current, is an interesting phenomenon. Some nautical miles from
+the south point of the above-mentioned Fjord, which we christened
+“Pfingstkap,” we hauled up the boats on to the firm, even coast ice.
+The following sketch will explain the situation:--
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+The next day, 7th June, was delightful weather. We sailed pleasantly
+past “Pfingstkap,” the highest rocky point of which rises boldly in
+the air, stretching along the steep coast southwards. Its aspect was
+barren and dreary. The darkness of the rocks was broken here and there
+by small strips of snow, reaching about half way up; some of which
+looked grass-green from the scanty moss growing on the stones. On
+a low island, which on Graah’s map bears the name of Kutek Island,
+we took our mid-day meal. In the depths of the rocks we found some
+beautifully-tasting water, and for once we drank as much as we wanted.
+The rocks of Kutek Island must often have come in hard contact with the
+ice drifting from the north; many places distinctly showed that they
+had been polished by the ice and worn quite flat. On many rocks, which
+were partly covered by the tide, lay the glistening blue fragments of
+pieces washed up, and of crushed ice-floes. In the evening we hauled
+up our boats five miles north of Cape Vallöe, for the first time on
+the rocks of the continent of Greenland. For the first time, now that
+we had no longer the crowding ice to fear, did we give ourselves
+completely and quietly up to rest. The light of another bright sunshiny
+dawn showed us some signs of vegetation inland. There were sorrel,
+dandelion, and cinquefoil, which we sought for eagerly in the fissures
+and rents of the rocky ground, and with which, with the help of some
+pickle, we improvised a salad with the remainder of the divers; got
+once more under sail, and in the evening had left twenty miles behind
+us. Our quarters this night were close to the south end of Greenland
+(60° 34′ N.L.), in front of the Fjord of Lindenow (marked by Graah
+under the unpronounceable name of Kangerdlurksoeitsiak).
+
+On the following day we passed the grandly-formed pyramidical Cape of
+Hvidtfeldt (Kaningesekasik), more than a thousand feet high. Before
+it lay a group of cliffs, at one of which we pulled up, in order to
+find the best channel. On this occasion granite was found amongst
+the rocks. Dr Laube reports:--“We pulled up to one of the rocks for a
+short rest, and for our meal. It was a huge block of granite, and that
+of the beautiful large grained kind, the pegmatite, which is known to
+come from Siberia and other northern lands. Besides this, it contained
+a great number of garnets and carnelians mixed up together; and from
+its bosom the waves had washed a lovely block of rose quartz. I had
+made no secret of the presence of sapphires and garnets, and so came
+to grief through it, as we all wanted to capture a large sapphire.
+Hammer and chisel, which I had always to borrow, as my case went
+down with the Hansa, were scarcely to be obtained, and only with the
+sacrifice of my daily meal did I at length succeed in quieting my
+geologico-mineralogical mind by the acquisition of some fragments, when
+we at once said good-bye to the rock and its treasures, and went on
+our way. My mineralogico-geological mind! How often on the way did it
+rise in an excitement of longing to get hold of this or that spot, to
+climb up, and laden with stones return to the boat! but I must suppress
+such longings. If, as is well known, one cannot study well upon a
+full stomach, I can certify that a craving, gnawing stomach, does
+not incline one to work. But, even had I overcome this, a half-hour
+spent on such an excursion might have brought the lives of my waiting
+companions into danger. For this I would not be responsible. So that I
+only allowed my wishes to prevail when the occasion was warranted by
+circumstances.”
+
+The colour of the mountains, beginning from Cape Hvidtfeldt, was quite
+different from those seen hitherto; they looked like melted copper.
+That explains at once the brown colour so often borne by naked rocks;
+it may also arise from the weather-beaten stratum of the peculiar
+granite of which they are built.[22] The blue atmosphere, in which the
+rocks rise, enhances the picturesque appearance of this richly-coloured
+coast scenery.
+
+The rocks lying almost under Kaningesekasik, are washed perfectly
+round; they lie like giant ice-breakers, smooth and polished on all
+sides. Waves and ice have done their work. These cupola and dome-shaped
+rocks we now met constantly on our coasting journey; thousands of
+them lay scattered along the mainland, a stony outwork against the
+onward-pressing ice.
+
+Our further voyage showed us a more pleasant landscape. To the north
+of the promontory of Igalalik appeared, extending for some distance,
+green tracts clothed with short grass. Unfortunately it was very foggy
+weather, and the clusters of islands, amid which we were now steering
+to find the entrance to Prince Christian Sound, caused us to miss this
+mark. The weather had become bad, and the south-east wind setting
+straight in on to shore drove us to seek protection in the first
+suitable of the many opening bights. After sailing in it for some time,
+the water became smoother; we were evidently in a strait, and that
+the one we wanted, viz. Prince Christian Sound. Lazily we rowed until
+two a.m. A flat piece of granite, sloping gently down to the water,
+afforded us a capital resting-place. Soon the boats were placed in the
+usual way, prepared as a tent couch.
+
+More quietly than usual could we give ourselves up to sleep. The
+southern point of Greenland was, we thought, happily reached; in a
+few days we must be in Friedrichsthal. That horrible spectre which
+had martyred us for a long four weeks, the prospect of starvation,
+vanished; and we set valiantly to work upon the side of bacon and
+the ham. One must not, however, think, says Dr. Laube, that, on
+that account, we were careless of our provisions. Captain Hegemann
+providently kept the bread basket somewhat high. It might still happen
+that by the ice or some other hindrance we might be delayed, and with
+our store of provisions have to prolong our lives for a longer time.
+The long-missing feeling of satiety, and the joyful knowledge that soon
+this lingering, troublesome work of deliverance would be successful,
+helped to put us in the happiest frame of mind. It was already late
+in the morning, when the voice of the careful cook awoke us out of a
+refreshing sleep with the cry of ‘Schaffen! schaffen!’[23]
+
+“The next thing was to try, if possible, to ascertain our exact
+position; the further journey was, therefore, put off until after
+the mid-day rest. When the accustomed morning toilette had been gone
+through (a brook leaping from the mountains gave an opportunity for a
+thorough cleansing), I employed the time in climbing the overhanging
+rocks to look about a little and see what was here offered to the eye.
+How different the ground already looked here! No longer those bare
+masses of rock alternating with everlasting ice! green moss spread
+itself around; dwarf birches, creeping willows showed young shoots,
+though even here the snow seemed not long to have disappeared. Indeed,
+we had no need to climb very high above the valley to find the winter
+carpet still spread. The straits here had more the character of a lake.
+From our resting-place straight to the south opened another in the
+distance, bordered by an island. In the east, from whence we had come,
+rose long-backed ridges; whilst westward, where the straits disappeared
+behind a rocky promontory, rose high mountains. Still and deserted it
+was on all sides; scarcely a white gull fluttered over the water, or
+a snow-bunting piped its simple song. About mid-day I returned to the
+camp. On the broad granite flat the captain and the pilot had erected a
+temporary observatory. Observations gave us 60° 4′ N.L., according to
+which we were not in Prince Christian Sound, but some nautical miles
+more to the south. Graah’s chart, which had generally given the run
+of the coast pretty exactly, had disappointed us more than once with
+regard to our geographical position. With a fresh breeze we sailed
+about twelve miles over the supposed Sound, then found it surrounded
+by rocks, and after climbing some heights were convinced that we were
+in a Fjord and not in a sea-strait, so we were obliged to row back
+again. The scenery on both sides was wildly picturesque, and grand dark
+rocky walls, covered on the top with snow, rose more than a thousand
+feet high; torrents of the melted snow rushed from the clefts and
+fell foaming in the Fjord. In some places, a sickly mossy covering
+was perceptible. Birds were often visible. At six in the evening, we
+were once more at the entrance; allowed ourselves no rest, however,
+but sailed until midnight in a south-westerly direction, four miles
+further, where in a small safe harbour we landed. On the shore were
+many signs that here had passed or lived some human beings, and (to
+judge from the bones of the seals) not very long ago some Esquimaux.
+Small stones were laid on the top of each other in the shape of a
+quadrangle: fragments of earthenware and seals’ bones lay strewn
+around. In this bight, too, the scenery was indescribably grand. To
+the left it was bounded by a hilly chain clothed in green moss. To the
+right rose a mighty wall 1200 feet high. A rocky pyramid towered in the
+air, and broad cataracts shot over the slopes, the waters collecting
+at the bottom, and the overflow being borne to the sea. The background
+was picturesquely surrounded by mountains, the waters of whose glaciers
+fell over a mountain terrace in a mighty torrent thundering to the
+sea. I thought of the ‘Traunfall’ in Upper Austria. No words are
+equal to the description of this majestic scenery; it wants a vivid
+water-colour drawing to convey that impression to the reader which
+this picture landscape made upon me. Pity that the journey to this
+region is so uninviting! If such were not the case, an artist might
+not be indisposed to undertake it, in order to bring home to the world
+full and glorious sketches and views of an unknown land abounding in
+nature’s beauty.
+
+At eleven in the morning, with a fresh north wind, we sailed on. At
+noon we passed the point of Christian IV. Island, and from thence rowed
+between the high island lying north of Cape Farewell, to the important
+Island of Sedlevik with its many far-stretching arms, where we passed
+the night and the following day. Now, indeed, we had the certainty of
+knowing that we were near Friedrichsthal, and might give ourselves
+up to the joyful hope of soon being once more among men. Strangely
+enough, up to this time, we had not had a glimpse of an Esquimaux,
+though we might reasonably conclude that they were now busy in these
+waters catching the seals. Later we learnt that this (which is for the
+Greenlander a weighty business) was carried on to the south of Cape
+Farewell. The bank rises from the spot where we were, in an oblique
+direction, about 320 feet, forming a wide hilly plateau inland, on the
+soft, elastic, mossy carpet of which we stretched ourselves in the
+noonday sun and enjoyed some hours of long-wanted rest. Here and there,
+half hidden in the moss, were small blue flowers. Some of our party
+went hunting, but shot nothing but a few birds.
+
+In the afternoon came the tide, which rose eight feet, and with a
+pretty strong north-east wind made such breakers that would have been
+dangerous to us, if some of the men had not been on the spot at the
+time, and held the boat, which was driving on to the shore, with the
+oars. Towards evening, the water retreated, the boats lay still, and
+we laid ourselves down with the conviction that the next night we
+should pass under a roof in Friedrichsthal. The glaciers which hung
+every where on the rocks of the island, now like birds’-nests between
+the needles and the rocky pinnacles, now of considerable strength,
+stretching down the declivities, no longer reached (so Dr. Laube
+affirmed) down to the sea, though in some places they protruded their
+moraines low down, and some of the broken ice getting loose fell over
+this dam into the sea. The temperature of the air seemed considerably
+warmer, and the land bore a far fresher green; whilst the islands
+around Cape Farewell formed a connected, high towering, tattered rocky
+block. The northerly Island of Sedlevik, which we had now reached,
+showed a level shore; only in the middle did a high, steep massive
+mountain rise. Everywhere the bank rose so high above the sea, that we
+had to search for some time before we could find a place suitable for
+pulling up the boats; and this on account of the steepness of the rough
+rocks was hard work, though it at last succeeded.
+
+One week had passed since we reached Illuidlek; more happily than we
+had ventured to hope had our journey sped since then; and now we might
+once more allow ourselves a day of rest. Sunday, the 12th of June, we
+passed on Sedlevik. Although it blew hard from the north-west, the day
+was beautifully clear, and we could scan the land around us at our
+leisure. A party went hunting. “Less bloodhirsty” (writes Dr. Laube)
+“was my excursion; armed with the carpenter’s hammer, and accompanied
+by Philipp and Konrad, I undertook an excursion through the island.
+How different it was over the soft, swelling, mossy carpet, in which
+the feet often sank up to the ankles, to the hard stony rocks which
+we had trodden up to this time! Under the high mountains of the
+island, Spring’s first children had been born to her; amongst blooming
+willows and birch bushes, which rose in their succulent green sprays
+from the mossy ground like embroidery, the kidney-leaved sorrel and
+sweet-smelling angelica, finely indented fan-like ferns, waved in the
+air, and on the hanging rocks the low-lying _Sibbaldia_ spread
+its violet flower-bed. Below, at our feet, lay the light blue straits;
+branching off here and there, and forming deep Fjords stretching into
+the mountains, which with the glittering glaciers and bluish ravines
+bounded the distant view. I thought of the glorious Lake of the four
+Cantons! The small icebergs drifting on the water, gave life to the
+picture, looking like a fleet of blinding white sails; but instead of
+the smiling banks which delight the eye on that Swiss lake, it fell
+upon a desert shore. And yet what a different impression the landscape
+made upon me now to what it did a short time ago, when we were so
+uncertain as to our fate, and scarcely ventured to look up, much less
+give our souls to the great beauty of a northern landscape!”
+
+June 13, started at four in the morning. We crossed between floes,
+until we had gone round the north point of the island, ran before the
+wind through the Straits of Torsukatek, and then took our course as a
+calm fell, rowing westward, remaining as near as possible to the coast,
+looking sharply in the direction of Friedrichsthal. There suddenly,
+after rounding a low promontory, the longed-for bay lay before us! It
+was a never-to-be-forgotten moment. The wind was now favourable, so we
+at once set sail, and hoisted our flag. A few hundred steps from the
+shore, on the green ground, stood a rather spacious red house, topped
+by a small tower. It was the mission-house. More to the side, and
+somewhat nearer to the bank, stood a similar smaller building, near
+which lay a dark mass of stony heaps; these we conjectured were the
+Esquimaux houses. Further on to the left opened a broad Fjord running
+from the north. High mountains framed this pleasant landscape picture,
+which was closed in the background by dim bluish mountain chains.
+
+Friedrichsthal (so says Dr. Laube) is one of the younger mission
+stations of the Moravian confraternity. It was established in the year
+1827, and lies in 60° N.L., and is, excepting Pamiädluk (which lies
+some miles to the south of Cape Farewell, and is the residence of a
+Danish petty trader) the most southerly place in Greenland inhabited by
+Europeans. The community of Friedrichsthal, which also includes some of
+the scattered squatters of Esquimaux in the neighbourhood, contains 437
+inhabitants. The natives call the mission “Narsak,” that is, _level
+land_; definite enough for the conditions of land in Greenland.
+Plains are so rare there, that they answer well for defining places.
+But one’s expectations with regard to this European colony must not
+be too high. On a green meadow-land, which rises gently from the sea,
+stands the mission-house. On either side high mountains stretch inland
+to the north; the chain to the left is separated from Friedrichsthal by
+a parallel-running Fjord, the Narksamiut. From the high ridge to the
+right springs a merry brook, called by the Missionaries “Königsbach.”
+The generally flat shores of the bay juts out on the left into a
+natural mole, a prominent granite rock, the “Look-out” hill. To the
+left again of this rock is the entrance to the Narksamiut, a Fjord
+running deep into the land, from the waters of which Cape Igikait rises
+proud and steep. For some distance, about an English mile, one may
+follow the flat land lying along Narksamiut; then the cliffs and rocks
+crowd closer together; and only to those who are practised in climbing
+is it possible to penetrate a step further, when they may reach a rock
+which suggests nothing but a retreat or a giddy fall.
+
+This green flat spot of land the Moravian Brotherhood have chosen for
+their most southerly mission station. The Northmen had already lived
+here. As the brothers’ house was being built, traces were found of
+their old settlement in the ground. Friedrichsthal is, indeed, one of
+the most lovely spots in Greenland. Open and pleasantly situated on
+the grassy sward, and enclosed in a wide semicircle of high mountains,
+it makes a good impression on all comers; how much more so on us,
+comparatively raised from the dead!
+
+“Hurrah! hurrah! European houses, Friedrichsthal!” Indeed, there lay
+before us two low, red-painted houses. At this moment sprang up a
+most welcome breeze, and from our flagstaff the German flag fluttered
+lustily. I sat behind, with the glass to my eye, viewing the land. At
+the door of the mission-house a blue dress was visible for a moment,
+and then disappeared; now came a whole company from the house down to
+the strand; they had seen us. The rocks of the look-out hill, too,
+were alive. A European strode up and down, like an official guardian
+of order. Was it possible that in Greenland were already to be found
+harbour-masters and other government officers? What I had at first
+conjectured to be a heap of stones now stood upright. It was a group of
+oddly dressed human beings, natives, who crouching close together, with
+their skin clothes and fawn-coloured faces, could not be distinguished
+from the cliffs. Now the boats neared the shore. Even the water was
+alive. A man approached us in a canoe, but when he saw us would have
+turned quickly back again. The call of the Europeans to him from the
+cliff made him bolder; he came towards us, greeted us, and nodding
+pleasantly accompanied us into the harbour.
+
+  [Illustration: GROUP OF ESQUIMAUX.]
+
+Still it was uncertain whether the missionaries were Danish, but we
+heard,--“That is the German flag! They are our people! Welcome, welcome
+to Greenland!” Germans, Germans in Greenland! The first word after so
+long a time heard from strange lips was German; the first sound, our
+dear German mother-tongue; and their people the first to offer us help
+and refreshment--who can describe our wonder and delight?
+
+The land reached, each wanted to be first on the bank. I sprang into
+shallow water. We almost forgot the boats; the men could not finish
+the work quickly enough. What hand-shaking and grasping on all sides.
+Words died away in the throat, and the voice trembled. The man from
+the cliffs, too, and the natives had come up to greet us. The supposed
+guardian of public security was Mr. Starick, the missionary, who with
+Mr. Gericke superintended the Mission. The good people opened their
+eyes when they heard some short details of our voyage! But this was
+Germany. As a token, we have Mr. Gericke’s command:--“Wives, go and
+get ready at once some good coffee; in the meantime, we men will drink
+a bottle of wine as a welcome.” No sooner said than done. Whilst the
+men on the strand were busy making fast and unloading the boats,
+we followed the missionaries to the house, relating and listening
+alternately.
+
+The mission-house is a small one-storied building. Like most of the
+European houses in Greenland, it was made in Denmark, brought piecemeal
+from the ship to this place, and at last set up there. It is not
+larger than the houses in the Erzgebirge, or the Harz; and from the
+red paint resembles the Swedish peasant-houses. The foundation is a
+rocky site covered with moss. The building of that, as well as of the
+unadorned wooden church, cost more trouble than the building of many a
+palace in Germany. Tediously must every piece have been brought from
+Julianeshaab, nearly eighty miles distant, in the small _umiaks_
+or women’s boats.
+
+The dwelling-houses are small, and not adapted for a numerous
+family. Some rooms, such as the dining-room and the kitchen, are used
+jointly by the missionaries. The room in which we first were, was the
+sitting-room of Mr. Gericke, the superintendent of the community. It
+was plainly furnished; a sofa with cushions, a table, and some stuffed
+chairs, formed the whole of the furniture. The walls were decorated
+with photographs of missionaries. Homely and comfortable the room
+looked to us, however! It was painted with oil paint, and all looked
+clean and orderly. The long dispensed-with European cleanliness, and
+the feeling that we were once more in a circle where a German matron
+could exercise her beneficient activity, acted like a charm upon us.
+Even in Greenland, amongst everlasting ice, the German wife, we now
+found, had managed to provide a souvenir of her own country. Some
+flowers in the windows supplied a necessity which the coldness of the
+climate refused outside; for the garden before the house, the surface
+of which, as well as that before the Esquimaux dwellings and other
+favourable spots, had been ploughed, looked sad and dreary enough.
+Turnips, which alone thrive here, scarcely showed their first green.
+Entering the house, after crossing a stone hall, we reached the
+sitting-room of Mr. Gericke, which lay to the left. To the right lay
+Mr. Starick’s room. Another door led to the kitchen.
+
+Soon we sat in Mr. Gericke’s room at table, giving an account of our
+experiences, to the great astonishment of our hearers. Mr. Starick is
+a big, thin man, in his thirtieth year, a Lusatian, dressed partly in
+Greenland fashion (seal stockings and shoes). He is very talkative,
+though throughout the friendly conversation, his long pipe seldom went
+out. His young wife came from one of the West Indian islands; she was
+sent to him by the mission. Mr. Gericke, a man of about fifty, had a
+European wife who was born in Greenland, and had been brought up at
+Gnadau, near Magdeburg. Their marriage is blessed with three children,
+from two to six years old. Not long did we have to wait for the women
+of the house. A white cloth flew over the table; a heaped-up dish of
+rusks had the place of honour, and near it appeared some beautiful
+shining butter. Then the amiable housewives brought in a mighty can of
+coffee. And for us--we set to work upon the good things of this life
+with an appetite which defies all description. We sat, talked, drank
+and eat. To our no little dismay, the contents of the dish of rusks had
+disappeared in an indecorously short space of time. We looked at one
+another with signs of astonishment, when lo! another stood before us.
+Captain Hegemann could not help saying something regarding modesty,
+and so on. But our hosts would not hear of it; on the contrary, begged
+us to set to work again, which friendly invitation a still unfortunate
+grumbling in the stomach made us willingly follow. With some apology,
+the contents of the second dish disappeared. How the good people
+rejoiced over our blessed appetites! I thought it would frighten them
+to think how much fourteen famished stomachs could contain! But not
+we alone, the men, too, sat in the church-room at a cheerful meal,
+and the _Schonroggen_ (ship’s biscuits made of sifted rye-flour)
+disappeared there no less quickly. The good, good missionaries! What
+they possessed they brought out to help us. They offered us linen and
+clothes, but we had enough of them; what we greatly needed was a
+washing-day. As regards covering for the feet, we were badly off. But
+that want was speedily remedied. The store of shoes was brought out,
+and soon our pairs of feet were decked with rough Kamiken (Esquimaux
+boots made of seal leather).
+
+In a small room, near the church, in the school, we made our
+resting-place on the school forms, all packed close together. The
+church is really nothing but a bedroom; a black covered table marks the
+spot from whence the preacher speaks. Near the table is an harmonium.
+The men remained in the boats under the sail-roofing.
+
+In the Greenland village of Friedrichsthal no one was at home; men,
+women, and children were out on the island on the seal-hunt, or
+at the Fjord for the herring-fishing; only the female portion of
+the missionaries’ household was there. They had received us on the
+cliff with the others. The first impression made upon us by the
+natives was not unfavourable. Certainly these expressionless and
+plain physiognomies, with their broad flat faces, small, black, and
+somewhat crooked eyes, little stunted noses, and great swelling
+mouths, all set in black strips of hair, were not inviting; but the
+striking harmlessness and good nature of these half-wild people soon
+earned our fullest favour. As soon as they saw that we were friendly
+people, indeed the countrymen of their beloved missionaries, they were
+confiding towards us. The man who met us had brought the post; he
+was the overseer of a Greenland village, Igalorsoeitsiak, near Cape
+Farewell, and was named Jonathan. The missionaries praised him as a
+capital seal-hunter and an excellent man; he was very open-hearted and
+a great drinker. What was meant by _open-heartedness_, which,
+oddly enough, is also (it seems) to be met with in Greenland, I will
+not enter into, but the inclination for drink can certainly only refer
+to coffee; Jonathan was therefore, at least in our sense of the word,
+no “soaker.” Before anything else, we now wanted a pilot to guide us
+from Friedrichsthal further on our way. No one seemed more suited to
+this than Jonathan himself, and for this post he declared himself
+ready, only begging to be allowed first to settle his affairs at home.
+The permission was willingly granted. Jonathan hurried home. Had he
+not also to take the weighty news of our arrival to his people? and no
+true Greenlander could have foregone such an opportunity of showing his
+importance.
+
+Our friendly hosts would not hear of our immediate departure; but
+when we learnt that a royal Danish colonial ship, the brig Constance,
+Captain Bang, was expected in Julianeshaab every moment, and that we
+could not reckon upon any other opportunity this year of returning
+to Europe, unless the later coming Peru should take us, or that we
+should travel northwards thirty German miles to Ivikät, the place
+where cryolite is shipped, we determined to hasten to Julianeshaab,
+and if possible make our home voyage in the Constance. We had thought
+the ships running from Denmark to Greenland stopped at every European
+settlement along the coast to Cape Farewell, and had so understood the
+notice in Maury’s sailing directions. Here in Friedrichsthal, however,
+we learned better. A large vessel had never, on account of the ice,
+come any further than Julianeshaab. The southern trading-places and
+missions, Sudpröven, Lichtenau, Igdlopait, Nennortalik, Ostpröven,
+Friedrichsthal, and Pamiädluk had to fetch all their necessaries
+in small sailing-boats from Julianeshaab or in the Greenland
+women’s boats. Remembering that Julianeshaab is eighty miles from
+Friedrichsthal, and that the light, fragile hide-boats can only be used
+in fine weather, one can easily see that it is no easy matter for the
+poor Friedrichsthalers to provide their yearly stock of provisions.
+
+We further learned that, for the moment, the missionaries, on account
+of the non-arrival of the provision transports the year before, had
+but little to spare. The German mission in Greenland is provided with
+all and everything they want for the support of life from Copenhagen,
+by the Moravian Mission Society. Every year one of the ships takes the
+goods, and in the summer visits once both South and North Greenland,
+from whence the parties concerned provide means of further transport.
+The often unfavourable situation of the ice, and sometimes the loss of
+the ship, prevents the cargo from always falling into the hands of the
+rightful owner. To meet such an emergency, the stations have mostly a
+year’s store in advance.
+
+Our friends the Friedrichsthalers, might well find that, on account of
+the ice, they could not reach Julianeshaab; we ought, therefore, not to
+make too great a hole in their provisions. So we resolved that, as soon
+as Jonathan returned, we would travel on. For to-morrow and the next
+day we would stay where we were.
+
+About three o’clock, an excellent meal was served up, upon which we
+set to work valiantly. This is the _menu_: wine-soup, roast kid,
+with a mess of potatoes (dried potatoes); then pancakes and pickled
+gherkins, with light white wine.
+
+In the afternoon, curiosity moved me to pay another visit to the
+Esquimaux village. All the houses stood empty; the windows were taken
+out, the inside was stiff with dirt. The huge dung-heap, which here
+never fails at any Greenland dwelling, spreads a pestilential odour,
+and it is not to be wondered at that millions of flies crawl in and
+around, setting the heaps perfectly in motion. In the absence of men,
+some goats received us; and as I seated myself at the other end of the
+village, to take a sketch of the mission, the horned fourfooted beasts
+took me for some exotic dainty, and nibbled at me so all over, that I
+was at last obliged to go away, followed by a herd of them.
+
+And now it was time for the evening meal--a large dish of milk-soup,
+and a mountain of excellent egg-cakes. The missionaries have chickens,
+which in the summer, when the village is deserted, find plenty of
+nourishment. Over this, of course, much was asked and related.
+Strangely enough, we now learned that, quite unintentionally, we had
+found the best way from East Greenland. Prince Christian Sound was,
+according to the missionaries, quite blocked with ice and difficult to
+cross, being filled up with earth as we thought it was not; and our
+Fjord was a discovery. We were also enlightened as to why we had not
+seen any inhabitants. All Greenlanders have a great dread of the men
+who live high up in the north on the east side, and who, according
+to their ideas, are cannibals. (See, too, Graah’s communications on
+this head.) This idea may be an echo of the old Norse traditions.
+Imagine us, therefore, in our three boats, things never before seen
+coming from the north along the coast! Must we not have filled the
+faint-hearted, superstitious Greenlanders with indescribable terror,
+and wherever they saw us, put them to a hurried flight? We may have
+sailed close under their villages; it is even possible that, at
+Sedlevik, we passed the night close to one of them. But the low,
+oven-shaped, grass-overgrown huts can only be seen and recognized when
+close against them, or when the eye is familiar with their appearance;
+besides which, the Eastlanders go between the islands to catch the
+seals. The greater part of them were, therefore, absent.[24] Of
+their condition the missionaries knew little. In former times, some
+intercourse had been kept up with them, and on Alluk Island there was
+every year a sort of exchange market between East and West Greenland.
+This had long since been given up. Visits from the east side were very
+rare.[25] The people are, it is said, finer and stronger than those of
+West Greenland, and have light and brown hair. Does not this remind
+us of the old Northmen? If it happens that East Greenlanders settle
+in the west, they must first be acclimatized; they must go through a
+skin disease, which the missionaries call “Eskimokrätze.” It is not
+contagious, and the natives of the west coast never suffer from it.
+Amongst the inhabitants of Friedrichsthal, was a woman from the east;
+she and her children formed the only family unbaptized; all the others
+were Christians. Thus we had much to talk about; and it was getting
+late when we retired to our couch in the schoolroom. The latter, with
+the bedroom (the church), forms an additional building to the mission
+house. How wonderful it seemed to us that, for the first time since
+the 2nd of January, we could take off our clothes ere we lay down to
+rest! How free from care we could give ourselves up to sleep! How many
+anxious terrible nights lay behind us!--now, all was happily passed! We
+had already finished our night toilet when the door opened, and there
+in his never-ending goodness came Mr. Starick, laden with beer, in case
+we should be thirsty in the night. Beer! What German could withstand
+that! The bottles were uncorked, and soon the foaming drink filled the
+tankard, doing all honour to its Greenland brewer.
+
+It was late when sleep overtook us, tired out! Once more did the
+picture of the past vividly recur to our minds, from the tragedy of our
+shipwreck, to the happy moment which brought us to Friedrichsthal; and
+in our inmost hearts we all ejaculated, “God be thanked!”
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IX.
+
+          FURTHER STAY IN FRIEDRICHSTHAL. JOURNEY VIÂ IGIKAIT
+                          TO NENNORTALIK.[26]
+
+   Occurrences and impressions in Friedrichsthal.--Intercourse
+   with the natives.--Matrons and maidens.--Provision
+   cellars in Greenland.--Good qualities and quickness of
+   the Greenlander.--Delay of our departure.--Fishery in
+   Narksamiut.--Presents at parting.--Burying-places near
+   Friedrichsthal.--Farewell and departure from Friedrichsthal.--A
+   European recluse at Igikait.--The Danish settlers.
+
+
+Early the next morning friend Starick appeared with a bountiful
+breakfast. The yesterday’s demolition of biscuits was repeated, only
+quicker, as we were alone. Then we set to work upon our morning
+toilet; one after the other turned out as much cleansed and “got-up”
+as possible. Our men had done the same, particularly Philipp, who
+looked quite grand. No wonder that he at once made himself master of
+a Greenland maiden’s heart. Outside, meanwhile, the women had been
+washing the linen we had taken off.
+
+We had not to wait long for new scenes and impressions of the strangest
+kind. Already some canoes had come in, and their conductors had
+approached our boats quite confidingly. These small, black little
+fellows, I took for boys of fourteen, but was told that they were
+married people and fathers of families. Of course, everything that
+was given to them was useful, and they were soon good friends with
+our men. Not a little proudly did each one bring out his rifle and
+powder-horn from his canoe; but when our men took the “needle-guns” and
+fired rapidly, they were dumb with astonishment, and stood with their
+mouths wide open. The musical-box which we had with us caused little
+less wonderment. It was too ridiculous to see the amazement of the
+little men, as well as the women, at the tinkling box. I think if Mr.
+Starick himself had not been there, their thoughts would have turned
+to the long-forgotten “Tornik,”[27] their evil genius, and we should
+have been taken for enchanters; but their friendship was heartier than
+ever. The missionary and our pilots were shooting at the target on the
+strand, and the natives kept watch, while others visited the servants
+in their houses, who were busy making shoes for those of us who needed
+them. I presented each one with a sewing-needle, and earned a friendly
+“Kojunok” (I thank you much for it), which was the first Greenland word
+I learnt. I cannot affirm that the Greenland ladies are bashful, for
+during our stay in the women’s house the cook Luise came in, and quite
+coolly in our presence made the most critical alterations in her dress.
+The girls and women looked goodnatured and dull; there were eight of
+them, as I tried to draw them in my pocket-book; and Eva, whom I fully
+portrayed, was not a little vain. We also allowed them to write their
+names in our note-books, whereat the fair Greenlanders displayed the
+same naive coyness and affectation as our lovely ones at home. What a
+tittering and whispering, what turning and twisting! At last they all
+stood on the page; even the honoured fifty-year old Miss Sybilla had,
+with much bashfulness, entered her name. When we went away they thanked
+us for our visit.
+
+But a curiosity was still to be seen this morning in the shape of a
+Greenland cellar or store-house. The respected reader must not think
+of a similar locality in our country. The Greenlanders are contented
+in this respect with an excavation in the overhanging rock, which they
+build up with a stone wall like a swallow’s nest. In this, without
+any choice, is heaped all that is good for winter use--dried fish,
+seal-bacon, and meat--until the place is full, when the last hole is
+blocked up with a stone. Such cellars the Greenlanders like to have
+away from their houses. Accustomed to live from hand to mouth, they are
+no friends to saving. They eat as long as there is anything there, or
+they see anything. When, however, the cellar with its store is not near
+them, and cannot provoke their appetite, then, in the long winter-time,
+when there would often be poor fare, they have something to fall back
+upon. It never enters their heads to injure the possessions of another;
+so they need never fear that their neighbour will empty their cellar.
+The missionaries praised their converts particularly for their honesty,
+and assured us that nothing but the bitterest hunger would occasionally
+tempt any of them to take anything eatable from their neighbour.
+
+Even in this respect we had nothing to complain of but something more I
+can say to the honour of the good Greenlanders. There was scarcely one
+who could not write his own name; and it is really astonishing what
+fine regular handwriting is to be met with. Even a poor little boy, too
+weak to paddle a canoe, who worked in the mission as a day-labourer for
+his meals, could write his name well and distinctly. I can also call
+the Greenlanders a musical community, in spite of compassionate smiles.
+The horn-music in their church they provide themselves; the organ,
+too, is superintended by a sleek Greenlander; and more than that, he
+writes hymns and composes music himself. Observe also the artistic way
+in which the Greenland women ornament leather. With what trouble and
+patience they make the finest mosaic of different coloured leathers no
+bigger than the head of a pin, sewing them together to adorn shoes and
+such like things; and how, under good guidance, they acquire a taste
+for clean and well-ordered households.
+
+Good guidance is, however, very necessary. The Greenland men and women
+whom we saw later, were as different from those of the mission of
+Friedrichsthal as night is from day, and the real specific Greenland
+household, we could only learn to know by degrees.
+
+At table to-day our host told us that he had been informed by the
+natives that, a few days before, they had heard from the neighbours
+that some people were coming from the east, and that they had been much
+frightened about it, but were composed now, as we were the expected
+arrival. From the first it may be that the news of our coming had
+spread among the natives, owing to our having been seen in the distance
+among the islands. But the Greenlanders have the evil propensity of
+speaking contrary to the truth to please one.
+
+Thus, later on, we heard that our floe had been met with, and that,
+if we liked, we might satisfy ourselves that such was the case. They
+also related how that they had seen the Germania at full steam near
+Cape Farewell; they had begged them to pilot them to Friedrichsthal, or
+anywhere to land; but they had not listened to them, and the steamer
+had at once sailed from the coast northwards. Strange it always seemed
+to us; but the missionaries assured us that they certainly expected to
+see some one from the German expedition. Shortly before our arrival
+they had said, “Now they must soon come.” They had mentioned it to the
+natives, and when they saw us and prepared to fly, Starick composed
+them by the words, “They are our countrymen, who we told you would
+come.” They had also rightly concluded that, from the condition of the
+ice around Friedrichsthal, we should have much difficulty in reaching
+the coast. As during the summer months but little ice had shown itself
+at Cape Farewell, all the more must have remained above. At the same
+time, it was so thick at the end of September, that the missionaries
+were obliged to give up their official journey. This setting of the ice
+southward we not long afterwards traced to the accelerated speed of the
+drift.
+
+In the afternoon Jonathan’s brother, Esra, came to visit his friends.
+We had just retreated to the schoolroom, when he peeped curiously in
+at the window, and we signed to him to come in. He did not wait to be
+asked twice. How just seemed his claim to a gift! A handful of tobacco
+went straight to the mouth, but his sharp eye had lit upon another
+dainty morsel, the worth of which we certainly underrated. In the
+fireplace lay the end of a cigar; Esra picked it up, and asked if he
+might have it. We then found several pieces for him about the room.
+But a number of these stumps disappeared at once. I could not conceive
+where, and told him so; when he grinningly opened his wide mouth,
+pointing to either side, where, between teeth and cheeks, lay a store.
+Hence the reason that the Greenland men have such great swellings in
+the lower jaw.
+
+We gave up our intention of starting the next day, at the special
+request of our hosts. They affirmed that by Cape Egede, which we must
+pass, there was a great deal of ice, and gave it as their opinion
+that the north wind now blowing would in a day or two open up a path.
+In the evening, Missionary Starick and Mr. Hildebrandt rowed up the
+Narksamiut. They went to a place in the centre of the Fjord, where
+about eighty women and children were busy with the herring fishery. The
+Greenland herrings, the “Angmaksätten” as the natives call them, are
+for them as important as the seal; they form their chief nourishment.
+If the draught is bad, famine is at hand. Like our herrings, these
+small smelt-like fishes (_Mallotus arcticus_, Fabr.) rush into the
+Fjords in great numbers in the evening, and are taken out of the water
+in sack-nets by women and children. Without either cleaning or opening
+they are then simply laid on the grass until the sun has dried them
+sufficiently; they are then collected into an old skin sack, or stowed
+in any other way for the winter, and eventually consumed after being
+dipped in oil. As they became aware of the presence of the boats, the
+women broke into a howl of terror; some even fled to the tent. At last
+they saw their friend Starick, and became somewhat calmer, soon quite
+confiding; and the boys paddled their canoes in emulation round the
+boats. They promised the home-returning ones some fresh “Angmaksätten”
+early the next day, and they kept their word. Two great tubs of fish
+arrived the next morning, and prepared by the careful hand of our
+hostess came on table for breakfast. We did them justice, for they were
+excellent.
+
+To-day, too, some canoes came to visit us; and amongst our sailors were
+soon some to be found, who wished to try a voyage in these light craft,
+which certainly for an unpractised man are very difficult to manage.
+The reader, unversed in the customs and usages of the Greenlanders,
+must know that they have two different sorts of boats, the “Kajak,” and
+the “Umiak.” The Kajak, or canoe, is about eighteen feet long, very
+narrow and low, the thin ribs of which are covered with seal’s leather.
+In the middle of this skin-covered boat is a circular opening, large
+enough for the body of a man. Here sits the paddler. He must sit with
+his legs stretched out straight before him, to keep his balance, and
+work his way forward by means of the double stroke of the paddle. On
+the deck before him the Greenlander has his hunting tackle, bird and
+seal harpoons, lances and slings, and on a particular table some rolled
+up harpoon-thongs made of sealskin. Behind him the canoe bears, besides
+provisions and booty, an inflated sealskin, which, attached to the
+harpoon, prevents the seal just shot from sinking.
+
+The canoe is the men’s exclusive vehicle; boys of twelve years old have
+their canoes, and make good practice with them. It is in any case their
+chief possession, and is as important to them as the flint is to our
+hunter. In the community of the Moravian missionaries, where the native
+poor are recognized as a class, the men and children receive a canoe
+fitted up as a means of subsistence. At the same time, any man who is
+not too old and too feeble, thinks it beneath his dignity to sit in a
+Umiak. These boats are used by the women, and are called women’s boats.
+
+A Umiak is about thirty feet long and very narrow. Like the Kajak it
+is built of light ribs of deal, covered over with seal’s leather. The
+Umiak is flat-bottomed, constructed the same both fore and aft; the
+rim on both sides, with the inward-turned fork, extends somewhat over
+the body of the boat. The cavity thus formed by the fork serves for
+the attachment of tow-ropes, as well as to make fast the boats when
+they are pulled out of the water. For this purpose they use besides
+heavy stones, as, in spite of their size, these skin-boats are so
+light that a storm will carry them through the air. From six to eight
+women, who sit on small seats in the after-part, set them in motion
+with a shovel-shaped oar, by springing from their seats, and after
+three strokes stopping for a time. The large well-to-do families have
+each their Umiak, but smaller and poor ones have one in common. In
+every Mission, too, some are to be met with; for however fragile these
+vessels seem to be, and at first, from the water oozing through the
+sealskin, very uncomfortable, they are generally, even by Europeans,
+admitted to be the most desirable means of conveyance. The missionaries
+use them on their coast voyages, which extend more than 120 miles.
+Certainly they can stand neither rough sea nor ice, and in unfavourable
+weather have to lie on shore for days together; on the other hand,
+they are light to carry, and in spite of their fragile appearance are
+wonderfully firm and capacious. Such a skin-boat can carry a weight of
+thirty Danish tons. A Umiak, however, never travels alone--a man in
+a Kajak (the Kajalik) always accompanies it. Either it is the owner
+himself, or some other native (as for example is customary with the
+travelling missionaries), hired for the purpose. At certain times,
+namely in summer, when the Greenlanders move from place to place, whole
+fleets of these vessels may be met with, which on such occasions are
+generally lively enough.
+
+The bacon-face of old Sybilla, who had taken such a fancy to Philipp,
+or “Bilik” as she called him, beamed with delight as she saw her
+darling travelling round the harbour in a canoe. But it was not so easy
+to keep above water, and no easy task for an inexperienced person to
+keep the legs stretched out so straight. The natives, however, greeted
+this first attempt with joyful grins. They were already on the best of
+footing with our men, and a small exchange of civilities took place in
+the most peaceful and satisfactory way. Even the female servants at the
+mission were soon sociable and trustful. Konrad had installed himself
+precentor, and made the girls sing some choruses; and we were surprised
+to hear how true and correctly these people sang. Certainly they
+drawled every melody frightfully; and the execution of the hymn, “We
+had built a stately house,” to which they had adapted Greenland words,
+sounded in most wonderful fashion from the lips of the native ladies.
+
+We had already gone to rest, when two Umiaks with women and children
+arrived from the Fjord, and at once encamped by our boats, carrying on
+such a loud conversation through the night, that no one could sleep.
+As we came down to the strand the next morning, it was alive with men,
+women, and children, who from their dirty appearance showed to great
+disadvantage compared with the people of the mission. For the last time
+we sat in the hospitable circle of the Friedrichsthalers at breakfast:
+we then took our departure. The few days we had spent here had served
+to attach us so sincerely to the inhabitants of the Mission, that
+parting was painful; with much emotion we spoke our thanks to our dear
+kind hosts. We took leave of the women on the shore who had remained
+behind, and also of the natives who had come to see us. The good
+Friedrichsthalers had provided us plentifully with food--fresh baked
+bread, butter, sugar and coffee. With three cheers we set to at the
+oars, and soon the “Look-out” mountain hid the friendly Friedrichsthal
+from our eyes.
+
+We were accompanied in state. Mr. Gericke and his little daughter
+conducted us in the Umiak, which was also filled with the whole
+household, as far as the next station; and twelve natives in canoes
+formed our escort. On the other side of the Narksamiut, under the
+before-mentioned high towering cape, lies Igikait, the Herjulfsnäs of
+the old Norsemen. There is but little of the walls left as evidence
+of former European dwellings; but some years ago it is said that
+the waters of the Narksamiut washed up a coffin with the body of
+an ordained priest. At this day there lives in the long-abandoned
+settlement an old European, who has learnt to renounce the world,
+and as a free man with little means leads a life of liberty. This
+inhabitant of Igikait is named Hagen, a tough, hospitable Dane, in his
+fiftieth year, who came into the country as a subordinate official,
+and married a half-caste woman, a “Blanding,”[28] and now with the
+permission of the Government lives a sort of improvised idyl at
+Igikait. His whole wealth consists of a large herd of goats, which in
+summer find plenty of nourishment on the green coast. He and his family
+live in a house constructed exactly like the Greenlanders’, but more
+roomy, and it differed in the interior by being clean and airy. His
+wife and daughter, like all the people here, except Europeans, wear the
+Greenland women’s dress; the difference, however, is favourably seen in
+those of European descent, and struck us in these women, for up to this
+time we had only seen full-blooded Greenlanders. Indeed, Hagen’s slim
+daughter, with her delicate complexion and dreamy northern features,
+did not look amiss. A son of Mr. Hagen’s had a situation in Jvigtuk
+as trader in the service of the Danish Company. The youngest son was
+to accompany us in his canoe to Nennortalik, where he was going to be
+confirmed.
+
+After our greeting, we did not stay long at Igikait. Hagen had spread
+his treasures on the shore; that is, he had prepared a row of tubs
+full of fresh milk, and invited us in an idiom, composed of Danish,
+Greenlandish, and broken German to partake of them. Those who wanted
+any took moderately, and in order to put the poor man to no further
+trouble, we took a hasty leave. Mr. Gericke remained behind with the
+people of the mission. It was really a hard moment when we shook hands
+with him and his for the last time. The good girls could not help
+weeping, and gave us their hands over and over again. As we sat in the
+boats and pushed from the shore, they called and nodded after us. We
+journeyed on; the neighbourhood of Friedrichsthal soon disappeared
+from our sight; our convoy had also diminished; some canoes had
+remained in Igikait, and some had gone back. We were now alone with
+Jonathan, Hagen’s son (whom we were to take to Nennortalik), and a
+volunteer, who having just had a son born to him begged Mr. Hildebrandt
+to be godfather to it. We had thrown a rope to Jonathan, who as pilot
+tugged with all his might at the flotilla, while our volunteer made all
+kinds of artistic strokes with his weapons.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 198._
+
+  BOAT-JOURNEY IN COMPANY WITH A CANOE.]
+
+Although the ice on our way reached pretty close to the land, we came
+across no hindrance; only that, as the wind was against us, we had to
+lay upon our oars. Wild mountain chains formed with their sharply cut
+contours a most lovely distant view. About noon we caught sight of a
+high Greenland mountain; like an obelisk, the thin rocky peak rises
+boldly into the clouds.[29] Cape Egede, too, of evil repute on account
+of the piled-up ice, came in sight. At a small island (which bore the
+high-sounding though not easily pronounced name “Kikertarsoeitsiak”)
+we landed for a short rest. Some ptarmigan provoked the bloodthirsty
+appetites of our hunters at once; and even our Greenland godfather
+could not allow this opportunity of showing his dexterity in
+fire-arms to pass, without availing himself of it. Once more we were
+all together, and the cold cakes from Friedrichsthal were very
+acceptable. Even for the natives who, lying on the rocks, were watching
+our movements with longing eyes, we laid out two good portions; for
+Mr. Starick told us that we were to give our pilot Jonathan something,
+if we did not wish to wound his feelings; indeed he would have felt
+it so deeply, that very little would have made him turn back and go
+home. There was, therefore, nothing left for us to do, but leave the
+godfather’s empty stomach unsupplied. But Jonathan was a good fellow;
+as he received his share, he divided it good-naturedly with his
+countryman, and both chewed with full cheeks as for a wager.
+
+About four o’clock, we reached the vicinity of Nennortalik--in German,
+“Bear Island.” Here is a small Danish store, or provision depôt; this
+was the end of this day’s journey, and was about half way to Lichtenau.
+Over against this island lie others, which rise into rather high steep
+mountains. Not until the harbour is reached, do the few houses of the
+place come in sight. We had been already seen from the land; soon we
+were surrounded by a whole fleet of canoes; and Jonathan, who had
+fastened his up, and now sat with us in the boat, thought not a little
+of this new honour. As we neared the island, some of our companions
+left us and hurried forwards; and not long afterwards loud salvos were
+heard, as if the destruction of a fortress were determined on, the
+surrounding mountains re-echoing the sound two and threefold. For a
+festive reception from the Danes we were not in the least prepared;
+there was no end to the firing. As we turned the last rocky promontory,
+which had hidden Nennortalik from our view, we saw that the banks of
+the harbour were crowded with people, from the midst of whom shots
+rose in the air every now and then. Again and again the crowd broke
+into howls of delight. More than three hundred natives--men, women,
+and children--waited our arrival. We had hoisted our flag. As a return
+greeting, the Danish colours fluttered from the station-house. We had
+some difficulty in preventing the people, in their willingness to
+serve us, from pulling us to land in the boats. The men really tore
+each other, in order to lay their hands on the painter. At length the
+figure of a European pushed through the crowd; it was the merchant, Mr.
+Rosing, who now welcomed us, and invited us to accept his hospitality.
+The ceremonious politeness of the man left us in doubt as to whether he
+had provided this festive reception for us; but he soon enlightened us
+himself. He admitted openly, that for his part he would not have wasted
+so much powder upon us; besides which, it was Esra who had gone from
+one island to the other, relating our story, and had thus caused all
+the natives to assemble from all parts to receive us in this alarming
+manner. I had already seen Esra’s friendly face in the crowd and
+nodded to him; that his countrymen should be assembled in such numbers
+seemed to make him very happy. Shortly after our landing, the natives
+dispersed in their “Umiaks” and “Kajaks.” It had not escaped me that
+the type of population at Nennortalik differed essentially from that
+of Friedrichsthal. What we afterwards remarked in all Danish colonies
+and outlying towns we here noticed for the first time, namely, the
+preponderance of European features, even amongst the Greenland natives.
+Indeed, those who wish to know the genuine unmixed Greenlanders, will
+only find them at the Moravian mission-villages in South Greenland;
+the people of the Danish settlements and their neighbourhood, are for
+the most part “Blandings,” amongst whom the European stamp prevails.
+Even in Nennortalik we saw girls with flaxen hair, blue eyes, and
+delicate white complexions; the men’s physiognomies, too, were far
+more intelligent than in the full-blooded Greenlander; here and there
+we saw beards, though very scanty ones. Owing to the thinly-scattered
+population of Greenland, one must not be astonished at the striking
+mixture of the European race which everywhere prevails; and still less
+so, when one takes into consideration that, owing to circumstances,
+an intermingling of the natives with the Europeans must occur; the
+missionaries and the higher civil officers of the Danish colonies have
+European wives, and their children are brought up in Europe. Again,
+the lower servants--coopers, carpenters, oil-melters, and so on--from
+their scanty earnings, are not in a position to keep their families in
+European style: circumstances compel them, accordingly, to marry in
+Greenland. The issue of these marriages never have the opportunity of
+being educated in Europe. In some cases they are engaged by the Danish
+Government, or some relations in their own country take them; but, as
+I said before, few are so fortunate; the greater number remain in the
+country, adopting its customs, language, dress, and manners of living,
+and retaining but little signs of their descent beyond the features. I
+had the opportunity of making acquaintance with the fourth generation
+of a Danish family which had become entirely Greenlandish. Considering
+this change in so short a time, we can no longer wonder that, on
+his arrival in Greenland, Hans Egede found no trace of his Norse
+countrymen who had settled there hundreds of years before. The remains
+of them had been absorbed amongst the natives.
+
+Mr. Rosing, who welcomed us kindly to his house, informed us that he
+had authentic news that the brig Constance had reached Julianeshaab.
+He regretted at the same time that he had not heard of us before, as
+shortly before our arrival he had sent a boat to Julianeshaab, which
+could have announced our arrival there. Now, he maintained, there was
+little prospect that the Constance would take us with her; for having
+a second Greenland journey to make this summer, she would only unload
+and put to sea again; that she had been much hindered by the ice, and
+therefore her stay in Julianeshaab would consist of only a few days.
+Further, Mr. Rosing affirmed that we could not reach the colony in time
+to accompany her. He consoled us with the prospect of Ivikät, a station
+lying sixteen miles north from Julianeshaab in the Arsut Fjord, where
+generally in summer several ships come to load with Kryolite.[30] The
+prospect of a long boat voyage, however, did not please us. What should
+we do now? After a short consultation, we formed our resolutions. As
+the boat had already left Nennortalik, we had to look out for another,
+naturally our eyes fell upon Jonathan. At the same time we begged
+Mr. Rosing to write to the superintendent of the colony, and ask him
+to assure us a passage in the Constance. Mr. Rosing was willing, and
+Jonathan was soon won over. We should stay in Lichtenau for the answer.
+
+After dinner, while Mr. Rosing was writing the letter, we took a walk
+round the neighbourhood.
+
+Nennortalik belongs to the superior class of settlements in Greenland.
+The dwelling-houses of the merchants, painted black, with white
+window-frames and peaceful-looking gardens, make a pleasing impression;
+but the houses of the natives are built of stone and turf, some having
+a roof made of planks nailed together. The fittings of the interior
+were thoroughly Greenlandish. A narrow low passage leads to a room
+of very modest dimensions, with a wainscoting all round. The greater
+part of this room is taken up with the wooden benches, which form the
+sleeping-place of all the inhabitants. The walls are decorated with
+gaudy lithographs, sometimes even gilt-framed looking-glasses. Next to
+the window, as a luxury, stands a small table; and instead of chairs,
+one or two chests.
+
+To a European, a stay in such a house is a difficult matter. The
+evaporation from its occupants, the train-oil lamps, the half-putrid
+food, the state of corruption of the skin-clothing, poison the
+atmosphere to such a degree that it is almost impossible to breathe.
+There are means of airing the dwellings, in the large window which
+takes up the whole south side of the wall, but it is so besmeared, that
+the daylight only comes in thick and gloomy; still it never enters the
+heads of the people to open it. The island itself is wild and rather
+flat, strewn with erratic boulders; and on the west side it rises to a
+high mountain ridge, the outer promontory of which forms the well-known
+Cape Egede. Mosses, lichens, cranberries, and bilberries, form of
+their kind a luxuriant vegetation, if the term “luxuriant” is not
+inappropriately applied to these waste rocks.
+
+Jonathan was soon ready for the journey, but begged, as he received
+the letter, that he might have a few hours’ rest; as he feared that,
+if not, he should be overtaken by sleep and so not arrive at the right
+time; promising to hurry afterwards and bring the answer to Lichtenau
+without delay. This was willingly granted to the good fellow. The
+evening we spent with our kind host; at night a small house sheltered
+us, which is set apart by the colony for strange travellers; for
+whoever travels in Greenland must be beholden to hospitality, as there
+are no inns. Our room was, of course, not fitted up with too much
+comfort; but our sleep was, nevertheless, a blessed one.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER X.
+
+       LICHTENAU. EXCURSION TO THE ISLAND OF UNARTOK. JOURNEY TO
+                           JULIANESHAAB.[31]
+
+   Departure from Nennortalik.--Igdlopait.--Mission in
+   Igdlopait.--Arrival in Lichtenau.--Greenland women.--Mode of
+   Life in Lichtenau.--Message from Julianeshaab.--Determination
+   to remain still in Lichtenau.--Evening service.--Excursion to
+   the Island of Unartok.--Warm springs there.--Another message
+   from Julianeshaab.--Prospect of returning home.--Parting
+   presents.--Departure from Lichtenau.--Arrival in Julianeshaab.
+
+
+Cheerfully we started the next morning, with a favourable breeze. The
+straits between the island Sermesok were rapidly passed through, past
+Tessermiut and Unartok Fjords as they are all called. By noon we had
+reached Igdlopait. This island is a branch of the Lichtenau mission. A
+missionary with wife and children lives here amongst eighty natives. As
+our boat neared the island, the shore became alive with people; here
+no one had an idea of our visit. Mr. Starick related our story to the
+crowd assembled on the banks in a few words, and went before us up to
+the mission. Mr. Starick’s speech raised the people’s interest in us.
+An old grey-headed Greenlander held out his hand to me, saying, “I
+thank God with you that He saved you so wonderfully, and brought you to
+us.” Igdlopait, the youngest of the mission stations under the care of
+Mr. Warmow, is in a lonely situation on an island. The inhabitants are
+dirty and filthy to a degree. The men’s skin-clothes were torn, and the
+women were going about with wild unkempt hair.
+
+The mission-house, neat and attractive, with a grey slate roof,
+seemed to invite us hospitably. A smooth road led from the village to
+the dwelling of the missionary, Mr. Hilbig. He was not at home, but
+had gone with his colleague from Lichtenau to the Fjord, to collect
+wood for the winter. His wife, a friendly countrywoman, welcomed us
+heartily. Not less amiable was Mrs. Warmow from Lichtenau, who happened
+to be on a visit to her. In order to provide for our unexpected
+quartering, Mrs. Warmow decided to return at once with us. We were
+really sorry to leave Mrs. Hilbig alone in Igdlopait. What a task,
+what deprivations does the wife of a Greenland missionary take upon
+herself one may imagine, by picturing the loneliness which surrounds
+a missionary’s family on a barren island in the Arctic Sea, bare of
+trees and shrubs, among a rough people but little susceptible of
+civilization, natives whose culture and salvation they unceasingly
+sacrifice themselves to promote. A few goats and hens form her only
+companionship. Even the blossom and fruit of family life the poor
+settlers dare only half enjoy, for custom and order demand that, when
+the missionaries’ children are about seven years old, they shall be
+sent to Europe to be brought up in a school of the fraternity. They
+do not see their parents again for many years, when they have become
+comparative strangers to them.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 207._
+
+  LICHTENAU, MISSION-STATION IN SOUTH-WEST GREENLAND.]
+
+We would not stay longer than was necessary; and as Mrs. Warmow could
+not be dissuaded from accompanying us, we started in the boats at four
+in the afternoon. Without a guide it would have been impossible to
+have gone any distance, as a thick fog had fallen, which in Greenland
+happens invariably with the north wind.
+
+In about three hours we had reached Lichtenau. This is the oldest South
+Greenland German Mission (it was founded in 1772), and lies four miles
+inwards in the Lichtenau Fjord, which stretches thirty-two miles beyond
+it. On a small half-island, crowned with a rocky plateau, stands the
+mission and the native village, the huts of which are grouped around
+the rocks in the form of an amphitheatre.
+
+The mission-house of Lichtenau is the largest we have seen. Three
+missionaries work here: Mr. Warmow (as superintendent), and Messrs.
+Spindler and Kögel. Like that of Friedrichsthal, it is made of wood,
+and is only one story high. On the ground-floor is a large schoolroom,
+kitchen, store-room, and guest-room; up one flight of stairs the
+friendly and comfortable dwelling of the missionary. A small vegetable
+garden lies in front of the house. On one side of the road stands the
+old decaying church, and on the other storehouses and stables. The
+harbour is very comfortable, and allows the boats to lie steady on the
+soft sand. As we neared Lichtenau we were at once seen, as the fog had
+rolled on to the land, and every one ran down to the strand to see the
+strangers from far distant Europe. Although the greater part of the
+inhabitants of Lichtenau were out at the seal fishery, there were more
+at home than there were at Friedrichsthal; and we were soon convinced
+that the Greenlander, left to himself, would never appreciate the
+comfort and advantage of German cleanliness. We were filled with horror
+at the sight of some old crones, whom curiosity had allured from
+their huts. The features of the young girls and women are, according
+to our æsthetic opinions, far below the level of the agreeable, and
+the bodily mien is more repulsive than attractive. The dress of the
+Greenland women differs little from that of the men. They wear boots
+covered with gaudy leather embroidery, which reach to the knee; short
+drawers of sealskin, which without straps are hung around the hips,
+fitting closely to the body; and the coat-of-mail shaped “Natzek,”
+pointed before and behind, which proceeds from the fur round the body.
+The narrow drawers compel them to walk with bent knees and body bent
+forward, shuffling one foot before the other, giving them somewhat the
+appearance of apes. If this in itself is not nice, imagine a pair of
+old crones, with all the burden and deformity of old age; and added to
+that, broad, wrinkled faces, with noses smeared thickly with snuff,
+and bleared eyes, surrounded with disordered fluttering grey hair! I
+made as large a détour as possible, to avoid the crowd, in advancing to
+meet the approaching missionary, Mr. Spindler, and his kind wife, who
+welcomed us heartily, and expressed their pleasure in receiving such
+an unexpected visit from countrymen. Mr. Spindler, a very intelligent
+and learned man, who gave us much information on Greenland affairs,
+is in the prime of life, and seems not yet to be quite acclimatized.
+Mrs. Spindler, a lively talkative woman, provided for us as well as
+she could. The mission-house shelters three missionaries and their
+families. Only Mr. Spindler was at home, his two colleagues having
+gone to fetch wood from the Lichtenau Fjord: whilst the northern lying
+coast, namely the neighbourhood of Lichtenfels, receives every year
+a considerable quantity of drift-wood from the Arctic current, the
+missionaries in the south are obliged to bring all necessary firing,
+partly from Europe, partly from the inside of the Fjord, and often
+from a great distance. The birch[32] and willow[33] are seldom seen
+on the outlying islands, and on the shore of the mainland are very
+scant of growth; but the farther one gets into the Fjord they become
+stranger and stouter, and the banks of inlets are often covered with a
+considerable quantity of brushwood as high as a man. This in the summer
+months is gathered, and often conveyed many days’ journey; for the
+source of supply is yearly more and more distant, owing to the slowness
+of the growth. European coals have long since had to help, as the moss
+here and there met with cannot be used.
+
+Like the firewood, the winter fodder for the live stock (Lichtenau
+possesses three oxen and some goats) has to be fetched with difficulty
+from a distance. The few small grass plats, which give a scanty crop of
+hay, lie miles apart, and often just as far from the mission. All this
+business is attended to by the missionaries and their wives; and during
+the short summer they are absent weeks together. Mr. Spindler wished
+at once to send for his colleague from the Fjord; but as we intended
+leaving the next day, in order to reach Julianeshaab in time to find
+the ship, we of course did not consent.
+
+Jonathan reappeared at last. He had, as the missionaries had premised,
+made all speed; but he had been delayed by the fog. His answer by
+word of mouth from the captain of the Danish ship was, that we were
+to come, and he would take us all with him. He also brought a letter
+from the Governor of the colony, which was very laconic: “The German
+Arctic Explorers could not sail in the Constance, as she must start at
+once, having to make another voyage to Greenland.” It further said,
+that we had better go on to Ivikät; that there we might meet with a
+vessel which would take us up. Of the possibility of the next expected
+ship, the Peru, granting us a passage, there was not one word. There
+we sat, but little edified by the amiability of the Danish official,
+consulting as to what we should do. In about three weeks the Peru
+might arrive; but the missionaries were of opinion that, from national
+considerations, we had less chance of a passage by this ship. But in
+any case, to travel to Ivikät by the boats would be very difficult;
+added to which, according to our calculations, it would take us at
+least ten days, supposing that the favourable weather we had previously
+had should still accompany us. And now the further question arose,
+should we, above all, find a ship there, which would take us? and, if
+so, what sort of one? Long we consulted. At last we decided, that as in
+any case we must now claim help from the mission-station, the head of
+the house should be called in from the Fjord, and as he should advise,
+so we would act.
+
+Again Mr. Starick and Mr. Hildebrandt undertook the boat journey.
+Dr. Laube would this time have liked to have been of the party, but
+for a long time past he had felt too unwell, and preferred remaining
+at home. That same evening some young fellows arrived in a boat from
+Julianeshaab on their way to Nennortalik. They thought they could not
+allow the opportunity to pass without obtaining at least a handful
+of tobacco, and, if possible, something to eat. As they had heard
+from Jonathan on the way of us and his mission, they improvised the
+message--we were to come to Julianeshaab at once, and take ship in the
+Constance.
+
+Their object, however, they did not attain, for the missionaries knew
+the men too well not to know what such a message was worth.
+
+The next morning the boat brought back Mr. Warmow and the messengers.
+The “Isersarnak,” or wind of the Fjord, which always blows inward,
+had helped him much on the outward journey, but had made the homeward
+much more difficult. Directly after breakfast we held a consultation.
+Mr. Warmow thought it better to waste no more words on the Dane, but
+try and take passage in a Kryolite ship from Ivikät.[34] The journey
+to that place he admitted to be very difficult, and he thought it
+unadvisable to begin it at once. He suggested that we should have a
+good rest at Lichtenau, and in about eight days start for Ivikät. Mr.
+Warmow’s kind proposition pleased us. We consented all the more readily
+as he promised to accompany us, Mr. Starick being compelled by time and
+circumstances to begin his return journey to Friedrichsthal as soon as
+possible. The proposal was therefore agreed to.
+
+And now I hoped to have an opportunity of scouring the neighbourhood.
+An excursion for the next day to the Island of Unartok and the Unartok
+Fjord, with a lodging at Igdlopait, was agreed upon. To-day (it was
+Sunday) we remained at home. As the greater part of the population were
+away, there was no early morning prayer; but evening united us all in
+the schoolroom for a short service.
+
+It was a very strange spectacle that we here witnessed. In the old,
+decaying, plain-looking room, which might have been taken for a barn,
+if the small organ, some wind instruments, the benches, and a green
+covered table had not stamped it as something else, we sat with the
+missionaries’ wives on either side of the preacher; before us, on the
+benches, the native men and women, and our people. Near the preacher
+and ourselves stood the children. The service began with a Greenland
+hymn, which was sung by those present in the usual drawling manner, but
+otherwise very nicely. Then a sermon in their native tongue. The adult
+natives followed the discourse very devoutly; the children seemed but
+little impressed, and passed the time in amusing themselves. After the
+Greenland sermon followed a German hymn, which we sang badly enough
+without accompaniment, and then the preacher addressed a few earnest
+words to us which did not fail of their effect. In simple words, he
+thanked the Most High for our preservation; then a hymn, and it was
+over.
+
+The excursion was carried out the next day. The Island of Unartok,
+which is about twelve miles from Lichtenau, particularly interested
+us, because of the warm spring there. It had been mentioned by Ivar
+Bardsen, the ancient Northman chronicler, who wrote in the beginning
+of the fifteenth century upon the Norse settlements in Greenland.
+According to his account, a Benedictine nunnery stood in the
+neighbourhood; and the spring, which in winter was much hotter than in
+summer (it may have steamed more in the chilly atmosphere) was then
+much used by the colonists as a bath. By noon we had reached the
+island. Some natives, who met us on the way, had, doubtless to the
+neglect of their daily labour, preferred following us.
+
+The island, like the rest of Greenland, is entirely barren and
+desolate, rather flat towards the north-east, but rising in a hilly
+chain to the south-west. Nowhere could we discover any trace of a
+building. One would scarcely fancy that a monastery, according to our
+notions, could in the course of time so utterly and entirely disappear
+from the face of the earth. Only the supposition that the ancient
+Northmen erected their buildings similarly to the missionaries of the
+present day, of wood, and that when deserted by the inhabitants the
+natives broke them up when necessary and carried them elsewhere, could,
+give the statement of the Northman chronicler any semblance of truth.
+
+The warm spring is, however, there. On the western strand, scarce a
+gunshot from the shore, is a shallow basin twenty feet in diameter and
+three feet deep, covered with fine granitic sand. The water issues
+from the ground in three places, emitting, at the same time, an
+odourless gas. The temperature of the spring, according to my spirit
+bulb thermometer, was 93° 87′ Fahr. About twenty paces westward, and
+somewhat higher, lies a second smaller spring, which is deeper and full
+of stones. The whole surface is covered thickly with a slimy, yellowish
+brown deposit, evidently of vegetable origin. The temperature of this
+spring I found to be 102° 87′ Fahr. The water had a slightly alkaline
+taste, and left a white precipitate. The higher temperature of the
+soil, caused by the springs, is shown by the fresh vegetation which
+in a small circle surrounds both basins, forming a pleasant contrast
+to the dead aspect of the other part. The green land is a spot
+which reminds us of our native meadows. Watercresses, orchids, wild
+buttercups, and other meadow flowers showed their gay heads, and on the
+edges of the spring basin grew a species of reed which reminded us of
+our pond-reed at home.
+
+At the present day the spring is but little used as a bath. The
+natives, of course, never think of giving their persons the benefit
+of a bath, and the missionaries seldom visit this outlying island.
+Besides, the draught of cold air towards the basin deprives one of
+all pleasure in bathing. After supplying myself with a sample of the
+water and some pieces of rock, which to the natives seemed a strange
+proceeding, we left the island, to make another visit to Unartok to
+see the so-called “soft-stone” rock mineral. This stone (veegsteen)
+is a species of talc, of great importance in a Greenland household,
+and formerly still more so. Before pottery was known, “soft-stone” was
+the only material out of which they carved their household vessels;
+and even now, although Danish ore provides iron and copper utensils,
+they make pans and saucepans from it. Above all, it is necessary
+for the construction of their lamps. This lamp is a crescent-shaped
+stone, hollowed out and fastened to a low three-legged wooden stand.
+The shallow depth is filled with train oil, which is furnished in the
+following manner:--the person who prepares the lamp takes a piece of
+seal blubber in his mouth, and with wonderful dexterity sucks out all
+the oil, and squirts it into the lamp. Then some dry moss is strewn
+over as a wick, and pressed tight to the concave edge and lighted.
+This lamp, which gives both light and heat (for they even prepare
+their meals by it) is, of course, to be found in every house, and is
+(so to speak) the symbol of Greenland family-life, for all gather
+round it. Weights for angling are also cut out of “soft-stone,” and
+it is interesting to know that the Northmen made similar use of this
+material. The stone, however, is not common; somewhat plentiful in
+North Greenland, it is seldom met with in the southern districts, and
+is often brought from the north. East Greenland is not quite wanting
+in it, as the name of an island under the Kolbergerheide Glacier
+proves; it is called Okusiksak, which in the Greenland tongue means
+“soft-stone.”
+
+This Fjord, not so deep as its neighbours, is surrounded by a beautiful
+panorama. At its end opens a ravine which allows a wide prospect. By
+keeping a straight course along this narrow valley one could reach
+Friedrichsthal, but from the necessity of climbing over numerous fallen
+rocks and other difficulties, the way by water is preferred.
+
+Scarcely had our boat entered the Fjord than the apparently desert
+shore became alive. Inhabitants of Lichtenau and Igdlopait were here,
+stationed on the herring fishery; and as just at that time there were
+none to catch, the whole community were idling in their accustomed
+manner. Our arrival brought them to their feet, and soon they were at
+the shore calling and screaming against one another, and first one
+and then another wanting to show us a good landing-place. It was with
+much trouble that we could keep them from the boat, as they wished to
+drag it, with us in it, along the stony rugged strand. Of course all
+of them followed us on our way to the “soft-stone” rock, except a few
+old crones, who, being no longer able to walk over the rough ground,
+set themselves to prepare a dainty meal of herrings for us. At the
+“soft-stone” rock itself there was little to be seen, for the natives
+had long since so cut away the block that it scarcely rose above the
+ground; and so we thought it better to travel onwards without waiting
+for the dainty meal prepared for us by the old women, who, however,
+were not at all offended, but eat it themselves. Not so easy was
+it to leave the Fjord as to enter it. The Isersarnak blew strongly
+against us, and it took many strokes of the oars and much time ere we
+saw Igdlopait. We decided to spend the whole of the next day on the
+island, and enjoy once more the hospitality of Mrs. Hilbig. Amongst
+other things, Mrs. Hilbig set before us at the evening meal a dish
+peculiar to Greenland: young shoots of the Angelica steeped in vinegar
+and sugar. This piquant aromatic food, which would do honour to any
+great table, had our full appreciation, and the good beer no less,
+which awaited us once more on this desert rocky island. Our amiable
+hostess rejoiced in our blessed hunger and thirst; but the times
+of Friedrichsthal were happily over, so without being brought into
+difficulties by too great a hunger, we sought our nightly couch, which
+we prepared by placing side by side the forms in the church.
+
+Of Igdlopait and its hospitable mission-house, however, we were to see
+no more. As we were at breakfast the following morning, a Kajak post
+arrived from Lichtenau. We were to go thither immediately. A message
+had arrived from Julianeshaab that the Constance was waiting for us,
+and would take us all! What could now tempt us to remain a moment?
+We departed at once. Filled with thankfulness, we bade good-bye to
+our kind hostess, who participated in our joy. With tearful eyes
+she sent her greetings to those at home, whither her heart so often
+turned from this desert strand. Returned to Lichtenau, our people
+were in an excited state of mind. The news forwarded to Igdlopait had
+been overtaken by a fresh message from Julianeshaab, by which Captain
+Bang informed us that, being detained by the ice, he had only reached
+Pardleet, an island near Julianeshaab, where he at first thought
+of waiting for us, but had now gone on to Julianeshaab to take in
+provisions, and by unloading some oil make room for us. What kissing
+and rejoicing there was amongst us, as the glad tidings spread that now
+we should soon have started on our homeward journey. Whilst our good
+hostess was busy preparing a plentiful meal in the kitchen, Mr. Warmow
+was looking after provisions for the boat; and that we might never
+forget our stay in Lichtenau, there was placed before us quite a number
+of beautiful little souvenirs, to remind us of our kind entertainers.
+We returned these kindnesses as well as we could; and as, when once
+having reached Julianeshaab and the Constance we no longer needed our
+boats, we gave one to the missionaries of Lichtenau. Several of the
+musical-boxes, too, which, in spite of many hard knocks, were still
+sound, we divided among the missionaries; and those of our weapons,
+too, which we did not want, we left to our kind, hospitable friends.
+
+It was high noon when we took leave of our hosts. Again the whole
+population were on the strand: the men did not cease firing their guns,
+and others sat in their canoes ready to give us their escort. Amidst
+hurrahs and farewell greetings, the travellers began their journey.
+Once more we were to be terrified by the malice of an iceberg. Before
+the harbour of Lichtenau lay some small, malicious, jagged bergs.
+Some were so weak that the natives’ shooting put them in danger of
+demolition, but one in its last moments would fain commit a crime,
+which, fortunately for us, did not succeed. Ourselves in the whale-boat
+had just passed it; the small boat, with the native crew and Mr.
+Hildebrandt, was following us; the large one was farther behind, when
+the berg burst, falling with a rustling and cracking over the craft
+beneath. It did not, however, touch it, but the masses of ice fell
+close to it in the water, which rose in huge waves, hurling the boat
+far away. For one moment we looked with horror at the spectacle; but
+our horror changed at once to joy, as we saw the little craft dancing
+on the water, and the natives, wet as poodle dogs from the spurting of
+the water, spitting, and spluttering, and drying their faces, which for
+a long time had never been free from dirt.
+
+In a short time Lichtenau had for ever disappeared from our sight. At
+the entrance of the Fjord is a small outlying town, Südpröven. Here we
+rested a moment to greet the merchant and his wife once more. Here our
+convoy took leave of us, and the three boats made the last portion of
+the road to the colony alone. In the evening we reached the Island of
+Karsok. The natives, who at first hid themselves, came forward when
+they saw Mr. Warmow, and received bread and meat with delight. They
+lived high above the strand on a cliff, the house rather large and in
+good order. Our people, who followed them into it, were immediately
+regaled with coffee, which they praised.
+
+Through channels and straits, between a labyrinth of islands, we
+continued our journey. This night (it was the 21st to the 22nd) it was
+scarcely dark at midnight; but the fog, which in the evening had lain
+around the tops of the mountains, grew thicker and thicker, and towards
+morning fell in a soft rain. After midnight we passed the Island of
+Omarsuk and a great heart-shaped mountain, which the Greenlanders on
+that account call the Mountain of the World, and neared the district
+of Julianeshaab. Towards five in the morning we reached the entrance
+of the Fjord. Here on a cliff we took a little rest. The heavy work
+on this long boat journey, on which we could not once use the sail,
+had told greatly upon our men, and added to that was the damp, cold
+weather, from which we were quite unprotected. But the hot strong
+coffee, which soon ran into the mugs from the faithful old kettle, and
+a good portion of bread and meat, helped us considerably. Actively
+we went on. Soon we were between the islands which stretch before
+the colony, the largest of which, right in front of Julianeshaab,
+is called Storö. Two hours more, and the end of our last journey in
+Greenland--Julianeshaab--was reached.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XI.
+
+              IN JULIANESHAAB. EXCURSION TO IGALLIKO.[35]
+
+   Julianeshaab.--Unfriendly behaviour of the Governor of
+   the Colony.--Missionary Dräxler.--Shelter on board the
+   Constance.--Visit to Dr. Gundlack.--Greenland leather-work.--A
+   ball.--Excursion up the Igalliko-Fjord.--Northman ruins.--The
+   Egede family in Igalliko.--Peculiar customs.--Inspection
+   of the plan of the Northman buildings.--Geological
+   observations.--Return.--Pastor Anton.--Lake near
+   Julianeshaab.--On the Storefjeld.
+
+
+Julianeshaab is situated in 60° 43′ N.L. and 46° 1′ W.L. (Greenwich);
+a group of islands, some of larger, some of smaller circumference,
+lies in front of the real continent. The colony lies in a small
+Fjord, and you are only aware of its existence when you are near to
+it. Julianeshaab is the most southerly Danish colony, as well as the
+most southerly point which can be reached by large vessels. The small
+outlying towns--Nennortalik, South and East Pröven, and so on--are only
+visited by small coasting vessels. Founded about the end of the last
+century, Julianeshaab first rose in the present one to be a colony.
+From the term _colony_, in regard to Julianeshaab, one must not
+form too great expectations. On either bank of a stream, the outlet of
+a lake which lies half an English mile inland, the settlement is built
+along the harbour on the slope of a mountain. The centre is occupied
+by the residence of the superintendent of the colony, which is close
+to the harbour; next to that lives the doctor; on the other side of
+the stream stands what, for Greenland, is a stately church, and the
+dwelling of the preacher. The house of the clerks of the colony, some
+stores, and a small house for strangers, are the only buildings built
+in the European style; they are all painted black, but look quite
+neat with their white window-frames. The remaining houses, inhabited
+by the natives, are partly the old turf huts, and partly a mixture
+of Greenland and European, as indeed the inhabitants are, too, being
+mostly half-breeds. These huts have a slanting plank roof; their
+interior fittings and their whole appearance are Greenlandish: even
+the dung-heaps are not wanting, though there are exceptions. A high,
+round-topped mountain, the Starefjeld, overtops the whole, whilst the
+lower highland (the Harefjeld) juts out as a cape into the sea. The
+harbour is large and roomy. It is, as a rule, only visited by one ship
+in a year.
+
+Long before we had rounded the Harefjeld cliffs we had looked eagerly
+for the longed-for journey’s end. At last, as we rounded the last
+of them, the colony lay close before us, with the trim brig, the
+Constance. Our boat’s flag was of course hoisted, and it was not long
+before the Danish colours fluttered from the Constance. Our first
+visit was to the vessel on whose hospitable deck we were to begin
+our homeward journey. A happy feeling came over us as, after so long
+a time, we once more felt the planks of a good ship under our feet.
+We were received most heartily on board, and the seamen showed much
+interest in our sad story.
+
+After having stowed our luggage on and between decks, the question
+rose where should we stow ourselves? The captain, officers, and Dr.
+Buchholz found shelter in the cabin, but the men had still to be cared
+for, as the room for their reception was not yet prepared. We hoped to
+find a sheltering roof for them in the colony in the meantime; that was
+really necessary, as it still rained fast. And now we would at once pay
+a visit to the governor.
+
+He received us with cold ceremony, seemed to think it unnecessary to
+offer us a seat, and allowed himself very unwillingly to be drawn into
+conversation. This conversation gave us more the idea of an examination
+than a conference. To our narrative the governor replied, now and
+then, by a short but very decided, “That I do not think.” The question
+then followed as to whether we had enough provisions for the homeward
+journey. Upon the captain’s answer, that in that respect we must trust
+to the goodness of our hospitable friends, and that we hoped to supply
+ourselves with much that was necessary in the colony, his worship
+merely answered, “If you have good Danish thalers in your pocket, you
+can buy all you want of me.” For manners’ sake, and as there were other
+guests present, we were offered a glass of wine. At length we asked
+about a lodging for our comrades who were out in the rain. Upon this
+point, too, the answer was rough and short, “For them I have no room;
+they must stay in the boats, or raise a tent and stay there.” Upon our
+remarking that in rainy weather a stay in the boats was not exactly the
+thing, his worship said, half-sneeringly, “If you really have borne so
+much, a little rain will not kill you.” With this answer we left.[36]
+
+In Julianeshaab we had unexpectedly met a countryman and his family,
+Mr. Dräxler, who had been acting as missionary at Lichtenau, and was
+now going to Friedrichsthal to free our friend Starick, who was to go
+to Lichtenfels. According to the custom of Greenland, he travelled
+with two “Women’s” boats. His people he had housed under a tent, but
+a traveller has to obtain a lodging on shore. To him we complained of
+the wants of our men, and he at once offered to take them into his own
+tent. Brave Captain Bang then came to the rescue. He learnt our trouble
+and gave his advice. The schoolmaster was fetched, the schoolroom
+opened, the forms removed, and our men were placed at once under dry
+shelter.
+
+Somewhat less imposing did the governor of the colony look, when later
+we saw him in his shop taking small coin from the natives for sugar and
+coffee. After seeking the doctor of the colony, who received us very
+kindly, on behalf of our sick comrade, we returned on board to arrange
+our things more comfortably.
+
+The room was scanty enough; and as only two berths were provided in the
+cabin, and one we wanted for the sick man, the pilots preferred, as
+they would not go with the men, to make their lodging in the hold.
+
+We now, for the first time, experienced the disagreeableness of a
+Greenland summer; for when it did not rain, the dreadful swarm of gnats
+destroyed all peace in the open air. We visited our countrymen in the
+colony, and our men made acquaintance with the natives. The shyness
+of the people, who yesterday were gaping in crowds at the strangers,
+had vanished; and they seemed, on the contrary, to take much pleasure
+in the intercourse with our people. We, too, were introduced to the
+society of Julianeshaab. Dr. Gundlack invited us to coffee. Our kind
+host, who during the day had trudged about in heavy wooden shoes and
+long fur-lined coat, with a long pipe and a broad flop-hat, through
+the colony to his patients, or visiting friends, seemed not at all
+put out at our primitive dress. There we sat in a motley row, with
+three European ladies (a very silent elderly one and two young ones),
+and kept up a conversation. That same day Captain Hegemann signed the
+passage-contract with the Danish official, and now there seemed no
+obstacle in the way of our homeward journey.
+
+But the weather would not change. An ashy grey fog enveloped the
+mountains, and the rain poured down without intermission. We had,
+therefore, nothing to do but to get rid of the time. The German
+missionaries were still there, and with them we passed some pleasant
+hours. But the next day separated us. The weather improved, and our
+friend hastened to his destination. The small fleet, with men, women,
+and children, and all the baggage, pulled up by the Constance once
+more, and our dear countrymen parted from us, sending many greetings to
+those at home. We much wanted to take some Greenland products home with
+us. The people in Julianeshaab were much more accessible to trading
+than the southern settlers, and also we had more time and opportunity
+to get acquainted with them; so we soon found a woman, who, for a
+certain sum, was ready to sew us some shoes. The dwelling of this woman
+and her daughter differed advantageously from the surrounding Greenland
+houses. The sitting-room, which was japanned with white varnish, was
+kept very clean, and ornamented with pictures, and the never-failing
+looking-glass; the window-panes were transparent, which is a great
+matter in Greenland. The inhabitants, now busied eagerly for us, were
+in their own persons laudable exceptions to the rule. Very elaborate
+is the finishing and ornamenting of shoes with the customary leather
+mosaic in Greenland. With untiring patience the women sew on little
+beads of leather in stripes, with thread made of seals’ sinews. The
+preparation of this thread caused us some merriment. The tail-sinews
+are dried, then cut into filaments. As these filaments are not smooth
+and fit to sew with, they must first be prepared; this is done by the
+sewer rolling the thread quickly under her hand over her cheek shining
+with grease. The price of the work was, of course, not high, and we
+were soon possessors of it. Our people, however, had become much more
+intimate with the natives. In the evening we went again on land. From
+the store resounded dance-music and merriment.
+
+Let the respected reader imagine a low square room, not very large,
+feebly lit by the rays of an oil lamp hanging from the centre. In one
+corner stands an empty oil tub, on which two Greenlanders have taken
+their stand, and are working with great delight at their fiddles.
+The melody and the manner of dancing which it elicits sounds very
+strange. According to the time of this music, the couple whirl round
+each other under the oil lamp. Man and woman crack and stamp with
+their feet, and clap with the hands, at which the lady dancer in an
+opportune moment tickles her partner under the nose with a tuft of
+hair. The couple now form chains and circles. After a short rest the
+dance begins again. Over the scene hangs a thick cloud of dust and
+smoke from the oil lamp, which only allows one to see the outlines
+of the native youths leaning against the walls. For the amusement of
+the guests, they gave themselves up to the pleasures of the dance.
+Our men disported themselves bravely, and the Greenlanders showed
+themselves agile dancers. Pleasure shone in their eyes, and one
+could plainly see that, on the other side of the Arctic circle, the
+young folk dance as passionately as on this. Many of the ladies had
+dressed for the occasion; but others, relying on their native charms,
+ventured contentedly into the ball-room in their everyday dress. The
+winding up of the festival consisted in a general coffee-drinking
+in a neighbouring house. Such dancing entertainments were of course
+repeated, and one was so noisy as to disturb the governor of the
+colony, who lived close by, from his slumbers. Driven from the store,
+the company withdrew to the Harefjeld, where, upon a somewhat swampy
+meadow, they kept it up till early morning.
+
+This fondness for dancing is moreover peculiar to the full-blooded
+Greenlander, but the strict customs of the Moravian fraternity do not
+permit this amusement, and the missionaries have, therefore, declaimed
+against it. In the southern mission stations, where the intercourse of
+the community of the Moravian mission is less brisk, this is easily
+prevented. In the north, however, it is more difficult; in Gotthaab,
+for instance, where the inhabitants rejoice in unbridled dissoluteness.
+The neighbouring relatives come, too, to join in the revels. Two
+kinds of dances are customary in Greenland. The one is a social dance,
+resembling French quadrilles. Here, too, circles are made and groups
+formed. The step is peculiar. The foot is dragged and stamped according
+to the rhythm, and then again quickly brought up in time. The other is
+danced by two persons, and reminds me of the Hungarian “csardas.” It
+is an ever seizing and escaping, a quick twisting, now together, now
+separately. Both dances are pretty, and show the goodnatured, as well
+as the wild expression of the national character perfectly. Moreover,
+the Greenlander dances the customary European dances quite as well
+as we do. The national dance-music does not enrich its treasures by
+teaching; a sailor learned in the accordion brings this instrument with
+its new tunes over the sea, and the musically gifted Greenlander soon
+fiddles it after him. The Greenlanders’ treasures of melody have now
+been enriched with some German tunes by our men.
+
+By degrees, our stay in the colony grew very wearisome. In vain we
+waited for a fair wind to run us out of the harbour. At last, after
+long rain, fine weather set in. But in the meantime, as the Constance
+could not run out, the fine days must be turned to account, and I found
+an opportunity for an excursion to the Fjord of Igalliko.
+
+On the boat voyage from Friedrichsthal to Julianeshaab, I had
+everywhere sought for traces of the ancient Norse buildings, which,
+according to the chart of the Archæological Society of Copenhagen,
+were to be found in many places; but, except the small remains of
+Härjulfsnäs, the Igikait of the Greenlander of the present day, had not
+yet seen any. The district of Julianeshaab, however, was rich in them.
+In all probability, the deep Fjord in the neighbourhood of this colony,
+had been, in the time of the Northman settlers, thickly peopled. In
+Julianeshaab itself, the Danish officials could tell us a good deal;
+for they pride themselves much on these monuments of their ancestors,
+and repeatedly offered to show us the ruins of the Church of Kakorlok
+near Kakorlok Fjord, though in the meantime they did not at all help
+us to profit by their invitation. We had, therefore, to ask for a boat
+and provisions. From the moment we went on board the Constance, we had
+given up all claim to our own, the possession of which had in reality
+gone over to the Danes. It was very hard for us to ask our hosts
+for anything they did not offer, and thus the Norse ruins remained
+unvisited. From the Harefjeld, however, I examined them with the
+telescope, and eventually I had an opportunity of making acquaintance
+with this ancient monument.
+
+A store of fresh meat is not easily obtained in Greenland; and some we
+wanted for the voyage. In the Igalliko Fjord, on the very spot where
+Erick Rauda’s (the first Northman settler’s) house is said to have
+stood, there now lived a Greenland family, which--the only one in the
+country--bred cattle. There, according to Captain Bang’s opinion, we
+might hope to get some meat.
+
+A boat journey must, therefore, be made to it. The Danish sailors had
+very little desire to pull a good forty miles to Igalliko; our people
+on the contrary were ready enough to take to their oars for another day
+or two; so the crew was soon fixed upon, and I accompanied the party.
+
+The weather was lovely; merrily the boat flew over the smooth surface
+of the water; soon we were out of the Julianeshaab Fjord, and sailing
+between the island and the continent. A deep sea bay, overlooked by
+gloomy mountains, opened to our left. This was the Kakorlok Fjord,
+on the inner coast of which lay the ruins of a Northman house, known
+by the name of the Cathedral of Kakorlok. Straight across the Fjord,
+and round Storö, did the road to Igalliko take us. The Fjord itself
+from its entrance to its end is thirty-two miles long. The overhanging
+rocks to the left as you sail inwards are very steep. Along the whole
+length, from beginning to end, there is scarcely a place to be found
+fit to haul the boat in; and in many places it is utterly impossible,
+owing to the steepness of the rocks. The rocky masses which encircle
+the Fjord on this side belong to the mountain chain of Redekam, which
+runs between the two great Fjords north and south from Julianeshaab up
+into the land. The opposite bank is in many places flatter, the ground
+rises more gradually, and between the distant lying rocks shines here
+and there the inland ice. The landscape here is decidedly much more
+pleasing. About the middle the Fjord sends out a short southerly arm.
+There once settled the Northmen, and the place was called Gammelgard;
+at this day the Greenlander calls the ruined town Kaksiarsuk.
+
+On the road hither, one naturally asks oneself how is it possible to
+breed cattle here? At the time when the ancient settlers were here,
+it might have worn a somewhat more habitable aspect; but to-day the
+eye sees nothing but the Greenland stereotyped plots of moss, with
+a few willow bushes and bare masses of rocks, in whose rifts the
+dear sun has enticed a flower out here and there. As to the view, the
+neighbourhood is beautiful; but a fruitful appearance it certainly has
+not. Indeed, provender must be some days’ journey from this spot, and
+fetched with much trouble; for the places overgrown with sweet grass
+are sparse and very far apart; and only when quite within the Fjord
+can one understand how cattle, at all events Greenland cattle, that is
+animals not pampered with fodder, can be reared.
+
+Here another kind of landscape spreads before us. The high overhanging
+downs open out by degrees into a smooth table-land, shut in by a
+rampart of red rocky wall, opening in one spot by a pass to the
+neighbouring Fjord. This is covered with vegetation; though not the
+usual velvety green mat of moss, but the real juicy fresh-coloured
+domestic meadow. Here it is, indeed, more habitable; but here, too,
+the traveller misses, as he does everywhere in Greenland, tree and
+shrub. Further inland there is a continuation of willow bushes about
+the height of a man. On the meadow-land one sees from far stones of
+large extent laid in long rows; this is the first trace of man’s energy
+having once ruled here.
+
+Before this, the journey had become laborious; not to me indeed, for
+I sat near the steersman, and had nothing to do but to smoke my pipe,
+survey the neighbourhood, now and then let loose a rope, and help
+bravely with the meals. But from the entrance into the Fjord, the wind
+had dropped; our poor fellows had, therefore, to work hard. It was late
+in the night, when we at length found ourselves under the low cliffs of
+Igalliko. Twilight was scarcely worth mentioning. The air was agreeably
+mild. With united efforts we hauled the boat up on to the strand; and
+while the men were busy unloading the craft, I went with the steersman
+to wake the inhabitants of Igalliko, who in spite of our shouts had as
+yet taken no notice of our arrival.
+
+The honest Greenland cattle-breeder had spread his store of
+Angmaksätten and Owak (_Gadus ovac_, Rhd.) on the grass and
+cliffs, and the drying fish emitted a pestilential odour, which
+fortunately later on dispersed a little. From a low rocky pinnacle we
+could overlook the whole settlement. The houses were larger than those
+usually erected by the natives, and strikingly better built. From the
+distance the building materials looked like brick, or artificially-hewn
+stone.
+
+We passed over a hillock, and came to the flat top of a rock, which
+seemed to be surrounded by a number of regular blocks. Close by,
+however, they seemed to possess more and more order; and the first
+Norse remains lay before us. The ancient builders had, in the erection
+of this house, made use of the steep rock as a wall. The building
+materials were huge blocks of stone. To all appearances it was rather
+a low building. The rocky wall was about six feet and a half high,
+one foot broad, and deeply hollowed out, which plainly had the effect
+of limiting the upper part of the room; and it seemed to me from this
+simple grooving, that the closing up was performed by large stone
+slabs, which, later on, I saw applied to other buildings, of which the
+neighbourhood of Igalliko has many.
+
+At last we reached the house. There, in spite of all shouting, the
+inhabitants gave no sign of life, so there remained nothing for it
+but to knock them up. From the mildness of the air, it did not seem
+strange that the cattle were out all night.
+
+The present inhabitants of Igalliko were not originally Greenlanders;
+they are rather European, and wandered into Greenland scarcely a
+hundred years ago. The family ancestor was called Olsen; he was the
+first merchant in Julianeshaab. His descendants have dropped the name
+of Olsen, and taken that of the beloved Greenland apostle, Egede. This
+family is a striking example how by degrees a tribe settling here may
+become naturalized into natives. Except the features, I could discover
+nothing in the inhabitants of Igalliko which now remained to them from
+their European ancestors. Language, customs, and manner of living, all
+have they taken from the Greenlanders. We now entered the house of
+young Sörn Egede. After going happily round the dung-heaps, and several
+muddy puddles, we reached the utricular building, in which the door
+of the dwelling-room was found. No movement was to be heard in the
+half-darkened room. Only when the steersman called, did Sörn spring
+from the wooden bed common to all, in a highly primitive toilette. He
+forthwith recognized the visitors. But now the skin coverlet of the
+bedstead became alive underneath. Children’s voices in every different
+tone were heard; and from the dark mass soon peeped out here and there
+a head. Near Sörn, his wife Annie had rested, who now, anything but put
+out by nature’s costume in which she was, viewed us attentively, and in
+spite of the prevailing darkness, read the letter which the steersman
+had brought. She then turned gracefully round and suckled her youngest
+child. At the sight of the dirty figures, maids, and shepherdboys, who
+now appeared from under the fur covering, it dawned upon me that we had
+better sleep somewhere else. So after waking Sörn’s family, we went
+into the next building, where Sörn’s father, Paul Egede, lived with
+his wife and his youngest son, who was also married. Paul Egede was a
+feeble, grey-headed old man, in whom the flame of life barely seemed to
+flicker. His brown wife, nevertheless, seemed to have a good quantity
+of Greenland blood in her veins; she was younger than he, and quite
+active. Paul Egede was luxuriously clad in a shirt. Madame found this
+superfluous while sleeping. Awakened from slumber, she at first seemed
+to think of putting on such an article of clothing; soon, however, she
+relinquished the idea, and stared at us vacantly.
+
+Old Paul spoke Danish. We greeted him, and went back to the boats with
+his sons, which we finally hauled on land. We met, too, with some
+preparations for our stay.
+
+Sörn’s dwelling was, according to Greenlandish ideas, very roomy, and
+betrayed the certain well-to-do position of the owner. Gold-framed
+looking-glasses and large lithographs of English origin decorated
+the walls, even a “Dutch” clock was not wanting. The greater part of
+the room was taken up by the one common bedstead. Sörn himself was a
+robust young man with the typical Danish face, tolerably clean; his
+wife Annie, a blonde, had once been a pretty girl, but now that she
+had been married a little while, she seemed to us somewhat faded, and
+not free from the vice of uncleanness peculiar to all Greenland women.
+I say purposely _women_, for though I do not mean to assert that
+the Greenland girls are so thoroughly clean that they wash themselves
+at least once a day, and that even amongst the grown up daughters of
+the land one does not see many unclean faces, still the young girls
+are not wanting in a certain innate desire to please, which can even
+rise to vanity and love of finery. After marriage, however, this all
+vanishes; then the Greenland women take but little care of their
+outward appearance, particularly when a family comes on. Exceptions
+are not often met with. Annie brought us some tea which we had given
+her to make, and china cups to drink out of, which were decorated with
+gold rims and gaudy flowers. Our friendly hosts looked at us quite
+delighted, and Sörn and Annie felt much honoured and very happy, when
+we handed back a rye loaf with butter. The others, too, had some bread,
+but dry. The remainder of the tea, and some candied sugar, we also
+presented to the Greenland company, who immediately made the most of
+the strange drink, and gulped it down speedily.
+
+For our sleeping apartment we chose the fodder-house. The Egedes at
+once conducted us there. The small building served as a store-room
+for all sorts of things, and greatly needed air. They offered us
+some milk in a washing-basin, but we preferred drinking it out of an
+unsuspicious-looking stone dish. Meanwhile, a window had been made in
+the room; that is, Sörn had simply pushed out a stone in the wall, and
+through the opening now flew all superfluous objects; a calf’s head,
+old shoes, dried fish, calves’ entrails, and divers other things in no
+way belonging to each other. At last the atmosphere became endurable;
+fresh hay was spread, and we lay down on our sacks to sleep.
+
+The next morning we had undisputed proof of the twofold use of the
+dish, which had at first been offered us as a washing-basin; it now
+appeared full of coffee and milk. Sörn’s kindly invitation to help
+ourselves, we were still less able to accept from the fact that the
+children took an innocent pleasure in dipping their cups in the dish,
+by which proceeding their unwashed arms dived up to the elbow in the
+milk.
+
+  [Illustration: RUINS OF ERICK RAUDA’S HOUSE.]
+
+Sörn, the steersman, the cook, and some of our men then went to kill
+the oxen, and I turned towards the ruins.
+
+On the spot where Igalliko now stands, the oldest Norse settlement once
+stood--Brattelid, Erick Rauda’s, the first emigrant’s, house, when
+Igalliko Fjord was known as Eimar Fjord, and the arm of the sea to the
+northern end of Julianeshaab, which is not far distant overland from
+Brattelid, was called Erik Fjord. What degree of value this statement
+deserves, Archæologists must determine. Norse ruins exist, and to a
+rather large extent. Next appears a large room, forming a square on
+one side enclosed by a re-entering angle, with huge stones. The blocks
+lie close together and are not joined with mortar. In former times,
+doubtless, there were more rows lying one on the other; now there is
+but one; though the stones lying around may have fallen down. In the
+re-entering angle of this court lie the ruins of a house, which, if
+a dwelling-house, indicates but small dimensions. I will here give a
+hasty sketch. The extent of space enclosed by walls was from about
+twenty-six to thirty feet long, and ten paces broad. Here, too, the
+walls were made of low blocks of stone, and, exactly like the Cyclopean
+walls of the south of Europe, not set in mortar. None of the blocks
+were hewn; the hewn portion of the stone formed the smooth side. The
+holes were filled up with small stones. In that part of the building
+facing the south were two entrances. This, too, reminded one of
+those ancient buildings; for the sides of the door, built of stones,
+inclined inwards towards the top, and were closed by giant stone-slabs
+laid over them, and therefore exactly resembled the entrances in the
+Cyclopean walls of Greece. Both doors were in full preservation. One
+room was transformed by the Egedes into a store-house, the door of
+the other was open. They were at the utmost six feet high; a big man,
+so it seemed, could not have gone through the doorway upright. On the
+stone slab which covered the door lay some earth; grass grew upon it,
+and as this layer of earth was pretty thick, and as, according to all
+circumstances in Greenland, this can arise neither from the course of
+time, vegetation, or decay, we may assume that this is the remainder of
+the old roof, and that the builder, like his descendants in Iceland,
+covered his house with sods. The space in the enclosure of the stone
+circle is covered with pieces of rock. If time has not set its teeth
+quite in vain upon the old walls, the population of Greenland have at
+all events done their best to destroy them; for all the stones, with
+which the inhabitants of Igalliko build their houses in the present
+day, have been hewn by Northman hands so beautifully even, that they
+make splendid building materials. A Greenlander would not give himself
+such trouble, but takes it from the Norse buildings, only allowing
+those to remain which require great strength to move.
+
+Some hundred steps off lie the ruins of another seemingly smaller
+building, unenclosed. Still further on, a plain stone wall is to be
+seen. On the grass, too, towards the end of the Fjord, lay heaped-up
+masses of stone, which apparently can only have been the work of human
+hands. On a small low island, too, in the Fjord, facing the harbour,
+the foundations of some Norse buildings exist. Perhaps these were used
+partly as dwellings for the servants, partly for magazines; that on the
+island was possibly a place of refuge in time of threatened danger.
+The ancient settlers had their building materials very near at hand.
+Immediately behind Igalliko, which itself stands upon a steep slope
+rising from the sea, is a terrace-shaped row of red rocks. This stone,
+which has many perpendicular clefts, and forms as steep declivities,
+is a red sedimentary kind of sandstone which in its under strata is
+harder, has more quartz in it, and is lighter; but towards the surface
+is unequal, and in its red masses contains white flint stones. This
+stone splits easily in its strata into slabs, and was therefore very
+serviceable in building, such as I have never met with in any other
+part of Greenland. Very interesting to me was one other appearance
+which I noticed on that sandstone rock. Even from below, at a height
+of about 300 feet above the sea, a heap of débris had struck me from
+its peculiar appearance. At first I fancied it was artificially built,
+and strewn with stones. Upon closer investigation, however, it seemed
+that this débris must have floated there. The loose blocks of stone
+had been broken off by the tide, and lay in such masses that it would
+have been impossible for the hand of man to have brought them there.
+From above, I noticed on the shore a very low spot, where things were
+rolled up on a lower terrace in the same way. It is not easy to imagine
+that storm-floods, however high, could roll such masses over the ground
+and carry them up here. Rather would the assumption of an ancient
+coast-line be justified, and that the inner part of the Igalliko Fjord
+had later on been raised, certainly at a time when Norse settlements
+were unknown. I was sorry that I had not the leisure to investigate
+this phenomenon, as well as the surrounding neighbourhood. Scarcely
+had I finished some hasty sketches, when our people were ready for
+departure. With my sleeping-sack across my shoulder, I said good-bye to
+Sörn, his Annie, and the whole household.
+
+On our return journey we enjoyed the most lovely weather: at noon we
+rested on a cliff, where we found willow-bushes enough to boil the
+kettle. Unwashed and unmolested, however, we were not to return home.
+As we were half-way in the Fjord the sky clouded over, and it began
+to rain, and also the boat very decidedly to rock; and the idea of
+stopping at some place on the bank, roofless and unprotected, having
+to wait for better weather, was seriously entertained. But it cleared
+again; and, after a fourteen hours’ journey, we pulled up alongside the
+Constance. We found her in the harbour quite blocked up with ice, which
+had come in with the current, being a bad omen for our speedy release.
+
+The day after my return from Igalliko Fjord, I had an opportunity of
+making the acquaintance of a very amiable man. He was, too, the only
+Dane who of his own accord offered us help and support, Pastor Anton.
+He had just returned to Julianashaab from an official circuit. As this
+included every Danish settlement in South Greenland to Cape Farewell,
+and northwards to Cape Kaksimiut, it could not be effected under some
+weeks. In the smaller settlements of Greenland there is now a certain
+degree of order and management in the matter of religious worship. A
+catechist, a native, who has received his education at the seminary
+at Gotthaab, looks after the native school and devotional services:
+Europeans generally attend to their own families. At the best part of
+the year the pastor arrives; and during his stay children are baptized,
+weddings blessed, the Holy Communion administered, the grown up youth
+are prepared for confirmation, and admitted in the religious community;
+graves, too, are not forgotten by this shepherd of souls. All outlying
+places are visited, and then he returns to his own station. The return
+journey in the hide-boat, often in unfavourable weather, is difficult
+enough. Pastor Anton had greeted all belonging to us on board heartily,
+as already said, and most kindly offered his help in any way that
+could be useful. We were to ask him for anything we wanted; he would
+give it willingly. These offers we received with the warmest thanks,
+but we were nevertheless able to decline them, as we were already
+provided with all that was most necessary. He invited us to his house
+for the afternoon, where we passed some hours chatting pleasantly with
+the chief people of Julianeshaab. It was quite a political chat, and
+interested us greatly. The Danish gentlemen could not help showing how
+deeply they still felt the loss of Schleswig and Holstein, and made no
+secret of their hope that France would take upon herself the office
+of avenger. Greatly astonished were they when I informed them that we
+Germans in Austria had long since calmed ourselves with regard to the
+events of 1866, and that no sensible man amongst us would ever dream of
+entering into an alliance with France against Germany. Who thought then
+that the dénouement was so near? that at home things were happening,
+which in a short time would lead to war,--to a war from which Germany
+would, in an unlooked-for manner, come forth united, conqueror, and
+mighty, and France punished, crushed, and humbled!
+
+We sat long with the pastor. It was home-like and comfortable there;
+and in his little study there came over me once more a great longing
+for home. Without raged a violent storm from the south-east; we could
+scarcely stand; though it was clear, and the air, for Greenland,
+particularly warm. The thermometer showed 27° Fahr. This temperature
+lasted the whole night. Towards morning it fell somewhat lower. I
+accompanied Captain Bang in a walk to the Harefjeld, where he wished
+to survey the condition of the ice. The sea seemed quiet, but broad
+stripes of ice lay before us, and above and below the Islands Akkia and
+Storö, the straits were full. That did not look like soon getting away!
+In the evening I was invited alone to the house of the governor of the
+colony. There I met the pastor and the doctor. If my host thought that
+I should reveal myself as a thorough Austrian, he had an opportunity of
+undeceiving himself.
+
+The walk to the lake near Julianeshaab is as pleasant as it is
+instructive. Huge cliffs, from which a foaming torrent after a short
+course falls into the sea, hem it in, towards the colony. In the
+background rise picturesque rocks, reflecting their bald high tops in
+the clear quiet waters. On the banks lie soft moss cushions, in which
+the feet sink up to the ankles. The majestic peace of the far north
+lies over the landscape, and particularly over the sea. How utterly
+different is the character of our own Alpine scenery. “We are strongly
+reminded of that hidden sea basin, which no one seeks, and which
+touches the feet of the glaciers.
+
+The Storefjeld, too, a high mountain of 1200 feet, the highest anywhere
+near the colony, was climbed. To the dome-shaped top we made our way
+over cliffs and through ravines; it was climbing the Alps in miniature;
+one could once more use ones limbs properly, if only the abominable
+Greenland summer plague, the gnats, had not been there. These small
+tormentors followed us at every step; no beating about helped one,
+and no tobacco smoke; they swarmed in the valley as on the heights,
+and the body was covered over and over with them. Even if their sting
+on our hardened bodies did not have quite the same effect as those
+bloodthirsty gnats have upon the tender skin of our ladies at home,
+still this continual worrying was in the highest degree irritating.
+
+The view from the summit of the mountain is extensive and beautiful.
+Over the bald mountain chain, strewn with giant rocks, and its
+neighbours beyond (which remind one of the Brockenfeld of the Hartz),
+the eye strays, until the far distant mountains of the inland with
+their glaciers set the last boundaries. At our feet the lake shimmered
+blue, and on the other side of the island and strait the eye met the
+glistening sea with its icebergs and floes. It was an excursion well
+rewarded; deep in the contemplation of this grand scenery, one could
+even forget the gnats’ stings. The steersmen were not particularly
+edified by the sight of the ice in the sea. Did it mean longer waiting?
+
+The bay of Julianeshaab seemed very rich in fish. A boat sent out
+by the Constance dorse-fishing, returned to the ship after a short
+absence with a rich booty. The fish were split up and salted, and, in
+angling, a dog-fish nine feet long was pulled up. Immediately a whole
+body of natives received the sea-hyæna, brought it to the shore, there
+dissected it, and quite close to the dung-pits before their houses
+buried it, in order, according to their ideas, to improve the taste of
+the meat. For the next day, which was Sunday, another pleasant dance
+was in prospect. The men, too, now wished to be of the party. Sixty
+ladies, after the last ball, had escorted those who were returning on
+board, and the shouting and noise was heard in the lower deck of the
+ship. Still greater enjoyment did this Sunday promise; a “Women’s” boat
+had already arrived from some distance; but it was destined to turn out
+otherwise.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XII.
+
+        KAKSIMIUT. FREDERICKSHAAB. RETURN VOYAGE TO EUROPE.[37]
+
+   Farewell and departure.--Visit to the Island of
+   Pardleet.--In Peru harbour.--Hollanderöe.--Festive
+   days in Kaksimiut.--Continuation of the
+   voyage.--Frederickshaab.--Copenhagen.
+
+
+The 3rd of July was a fine day; and to my astonishment I heard that
+Captain Bang had decided upon running out. I had still something to
+look after on shore, but it had to be quickly done. Indeed, the captain
+and other gentlemen soon followed to say good-bye to the inhabitants
+of Julianeshaab. Presently the capstan choked with the raising of the
+anchor. Now we were off in earnest. We took leave of the European
+ladies of the colony who came down to the harbour, and nodded farewell
+to the natives. At eleven o’clock the Constance unfurled her sails,
+and glided slowly out of the harbour. The governor of the colony, the
+doctor, and the pastor escorted us. Above, on the cliffs of the shore,
+sat the maidens of Julianeshaab, in company dress, but sad; they nodded
+farewell to us in their Greenland fashion. They had been shamefully
+disappointed of their pleasure. Our sudden departure had struck the
+poor things like a thunderbolt. And as for our men--well, it struck me,
+too, that they would willingly have waited another day; but we had
+entered upon our homeward path, and on the whole, we were all heartily
+glad to be on the road home. Outside in the street, running along the
+harbour, the gentlemen of the colony wished us a prosperous voyage.
+We cruised nearly the whole afternoon, in a complete calm, between
+Akkia and the continent, having the ship in tow. At last, at ten p.m.,
+the outer harbour of Julianeshaab, on the island of Pardleet, about
+one German mile distant, was reached, where, in expectation of more
+favourable weather, we dropped anchor once more.
+
+We had really made a great mistake in becoming so soon tired of
+Julianeshaab; for, in the main, there was life about us there, and
+that was at least a change. What weariness really is we had now to
+learn. Pardleet is a completely desert island. The low rocky masses
+are clothed with scanty vegetation. Whortleberries, the marsh lystus,
+stunted willows, and birch brushwood are not wanting here either: but a
+never-ending loneliness rests upon the island, which is poor in animal
+life, and but seldom visited by birds. In former times, a Greenland
+family lived here; the ruins of their dwelling are still visible. The
+small celandine and grasses thrive upon this spot luxuriantly, and this
+green spot seemed like an oasis in the desert. I and our men roamed
+over the whole island. For want of other amusement, they collected
+mussels,[38] which exist here in clusters in the shallows in shore.
+They had all learned from the natives to eat them raw. We took a number
+of these mussels on board, and when pickled I myself found them very
+palatable. We lay in Pardleet harbour until the following day at noon,
+when we weighed anchor, in order to continue our voyage at least as far
+as Hollanderöe. The Constance, however, could not quit the spot, as the
+wind was contrary, and we were unable to tack owing to the narrowness
+of the straits between the islands. Nothing, therefore, remained but to
+bring out the hawser once more; and that evening, about ten p.m., we
+landed in Peru harbour, on the island of Kingitok.
+
+On the map of West Greenland, a great many harbours are marked along
+the coast, the Aurora harbour, Gray’s, and others. The uninitiated
+imagine, although incorrectly, that these are inhabited by natives.
+Greenland captains are often compelled to stay against their will close
+in shore, owing to calms, or contrary winds, or ice. Then nothing
+remains for them but to have recourse to one of these harbours, where
+they can at least ride in safety and wait for favourable weather.
+
+Peru harbour lies in a narrow strait over against Hollanderöe. As we
+saw no prospect of leaving on the following day, and the weather was
+fine, we undertook an excursion to this island. On the west it slopes
+gently down, but towards the east rises into two lofty cliffs, which
+form a deep ravine, separating them from one another, as well as from
+the remaining part of the island. As we descended into this defile,
+in order to reach the steep top on the other side, the stair-shaped
+bottom of the valley covered with rubbish struck me at once, as well
+as the steep walls, which showed pretty distinct furrows along them.
+This roused the conjecture in my mind, that here had once been a
+glacier, and that we were now completely in its bed. The top of the
+rock afforded a splendid view on every side over the sea, which fora
+long way was covered with ice, which the south-east storm had closely
+crushed together, both towards the north and also towards the rocks
+of the mainland. But the gnats here, too, plagued us frightfully, and
+soon drove us altogether away. From above I could now see that the
+rift in the valley opened into a broad gateway to the sea, confirming
+my former conjecture as to its geological nature. No doubt remained
+in our minds when we reached the upper part of the ravine. There the
+bare rocky masses showed the finest unequivocal naked alpine formation,
+which in no other way could be accounted for but by glacier-ice. These
+observations, which I made also later in a ravine resembling this
+at Kaksimiut and in the neighbourhood of Frederickshaab, raised the
+opinion that there must have been a time when Greenland was much more
+covered with ice than it now is. That this was previous to historical
+times, indeed was most probably coeval with the glacial period of the
+northern hemisphere of the earth, notwithstanding that all visible
+traces have not yet disappeared, can be easily accounted for by the
+slight decay of the rocks, and from the low state of vegetation in the
+country. Moreover, to this very day, it seems to assert its favourable
+position for a glacier; as in one spot, and that in no way high above
+the surface of the sea, lays a huge mass of unmelted snow, which, under
+similar circumstances during our stay in West Greenland, we had not
+noticed.
+
+Peru harbour would not let us depart so soon; we lay there from the
+6th to the 11th of July. Excursions to land were rendered tormentingly
+difficult by the importunate swarms of gnats. A small hunting party,
+at the utmost, might venture out in the evening to kill a ptarmigan.
+Besides, the dreary cliffs in their horrible sameness offered little
+or no inducement for excursions. The only change was caused by the
+natives, who knew how to find us even here; exchanging some birds or
+fish for a piece of bread, and then lying half the day near the ship,
+or on it, and sometimes being persuaded to show their tricks in the
+Kajaks, by sitting in them and turning over, so that the bottom of the
+boat became uppermost, they having their head in the water, and then
+cleverly turning up again without any assistance. Once, a whole fleet
+came, six Kajaks and three Umiaks. We hoped to find amongst them our
+friend Starick, who ought to have begun his journey to Lichtenfels by
+this time; but they were only natives, returning from seal-catching or
+merely wandering about. Of course they could not miss the opportunity
+of satisfying their curiosity. They came alongside, and some men
+stepped on board, the women meanwhile remaining in their Umiaks. The
+latter were but lightly clad. The work had made them warm, and they had
+thrown everything off that was a burden; but they thought nothing of
+arranging and completing their toilette before our ship’s crew.
+
+At last, on the 11th of July, at noon, we left Peru harbour with a
+favourable wind, hoping now to reach Kaksimiut. But, unfortunately,
+when about eight miles from the goal, a calm brought us to a
+stand-still, forcing us to find a suitable anchorage under the shore.
+The harbour where we lay for some days had no name; Captain Bang said
+he visited it now for the first time. Unfavourable wind, fog, and rain
+rendered our abode remarkably disagreeable. On the 14th, a boat came
+from Kaksimiut with a letter. The contents were not comforting. Beyond
+there lay much ice (so it ran), and an English Kryolite ship, which had
+run out of Ivikät the week before, had suffered greatly, was obliged to
+return, and now lay a wreck in the harbour. Upon this we rejoiced that
+we were in the Constance; for had we gone to Ivikät instead, we should
+no doubt have taken shelter on board this ship, as at the time none
+other lay ready for departure. Thus it might still have happened that
+we might be once more banished by the ice to Greenland.
+
+On the 15th of July, another attempt to run out was made. At first
+it seemed as if we should soon reach the island of Kaksimiut, but
+unfortunately a calm fell when half-way; indeed, we saw ourselves
+driven a good way back by the storm. Towards evening the wind changed,
+and we at last reached the latitude of the island. Company was soon
+found. The youth of the place paddled about, and made a noise in their
+Kajaks around the ship. The chasing and raillery of the merry crowd
+knew no end; at the same time vying with each other in paddling and
+throwing the harpoon, in which they exhibited great proficiency. As
+it got dark the swarm returned to land. It was midnight before we got
+into the harbour; and the darkness rendered it more difficult to find
+a good place for dropping anchor. The following afternoon we resolved
+to go on shore. Our only comfort in weariness (tobacco!), was it not
+vanishing? and now our last penny must be expended in its purchase.
+Kaksimiut is a provision depôt. The Danish government have here erected
+a small dwelling-house, a still smaller warehouse, and an oil-store.
+Around these buildings are grouped some dozen Greenland huts and other
+appurtenances. The island, like all those on this coast, is rocky,
+though rather low. Large stony plains slope gently towards the sea,
+so that at high water it is partly flooded. On these plateaux the
+inhabitants lay their hunting stores. The sea is the street-cleaner,
+the tide carrying away all refuse.
+
+After taking in at a glance the advantages of our position, and
+becoming a little more familiar with them, we made the acquaintance of
+the merchant, Mr. Motzfeld, a man of sixty-seven years of age, with a
+friendly red face and bright eyes, whose age it was not easy to guess.
+He was singularly vigorous, active, and chatty. His store of tobacco
+was at once placed at our service; and he had no hesitation, upon the
+faith of our honest faces, to supply us with a sufficient quantity
+until we should reach Denmark. Thus, at least for a time, this need
+was overcome; and full of joy the men withdrew with the beloved weed
+on board. Motzfeld took us to his house. The government building he
+did not live in; he kept it, however, for particular occasions to
+receive company; for instance, he opened it and showed us all sorts of
+rarities and curiosities which he had collected. Then he led the way
+to his dwelling. Motzfeld was married, and the father of (actually!)
+nineteen legitimate children. His wife (after the death of his first he
+had ventured on a second) was a full-blooded Greenlander. A European
+house did not suit her, she preferred living in a building of the kind
+peculiar to the country. Her husband at once provided her with one
+which, after his death, she could claim as a widow’s portion. There
+he lived with the younger part of his family; the youngest member of
+which was about a year old, whilst many of the elder ones had already
+children; so that in this old man might be seen the head of a family
+which would spread all over South Greenland. We had met with some
+belonging to him in Nennortalik, Julianeshaab, and Igalliko, and some
+lived here in Kaksimiut. The wife looked like every other Greenlander,
+neither prettier nor cleaner: one must really, like her husband, who
+sprang from a good Danish family, become altogether Greenlandized
+before one can feel at home amid such surroundings.
+
+Friend Motzfeld was in high spirits. He rattled on with all sorts of
+fun, of course in Danish, which we could only now and then understand.
+“Yes, German he could not speak,” he said, “but sing it he could;”
+and then he sang, “Zachäus was a brave man,” and “I take my glass in
+my hand,” and so on. Meanwhile his eyes twinkled, and he accompanied
+his song with corresponding actions. The accordion, too, must make its
+notes heard; and when the concert was over, we took our leave well
+contented, and returned on board. In honour of our arrival, Motzfeld
+had killed a goat, and sent by his son the half of it on board, wrapped
+in a really clean cloth. The youth had cleaned and adorned himself,
+wore a washed _Anorak_[39] and handsomely stitched shoes. We had
+noticed him some days before amongst the crowd of receivers for his
+superior agility. Judging by his friendly, intelligent face, he seemed
+a good youth. Later in the day his father came on board, joining our
+evening meal. He had all the talk to himself, the others being scarcely
+able to get a word in. But who would blame the settler for gladdening
+his heart with gossip, and giving scope to his tongue one day in the
+year.
+
+The following day was Sunday. With the Greenlanders, to whom every
+day is Sunday, that does not mean much; but the men of the Constance
+thought of one particular pleasure. Here, too, through the Danes, our
+sailors soon became intimate with the inhabitants; and the festival
+of Julianeshaab had to be repeated. For this there was the more
+opportunity, as the merry Motzfeld would certainly put no hindrance in
+the way. In the afternoon he came on board. He had donned his holiday
+suit, a velvet frock and a high silk round hat, which in Greenland
+means something. The two captains and myself he invited to dinner. At
+first, remembering his Greenland domestic economy, I gave no direct
+consent; besides which, we were sorry to be a burden to a man not over
+richly stocked with European provisions. But Captain Bang persuaded us
+to accompany him, assuring us that only roasted meat, and no boiled,
+would appear at table; moreover, that Motzfeld was so well off, that he
+could afford to give us a glass of wine: so we accepted the invitation.
+This time we were received in the European house, our host’s wife and
+widowed daughter, Agatha, doing the honours; they had adorned their
+persons in order to receive us, had combed their hair, and washed
+their faces. Motzfeld experienced “the noble pride of hospitality,”
+and offered all that his desert island had to offer; the other half
+of the goat sent to us roasted, stewed fruits, bread and butter, wine
+and grog. In drinking he took the lead, and scolded us because we
+did not properly respond. Meanwhile matters had become lively in the
+other room. The fiddles squeaked, the accordion drawled, and the feet
+shuffled and stamped in tune. The ball was opened. As we came out, the
+same sight met us as at Julianeshaab in the stores. In a cloud of dust,
+redolent of the fumes of the oil-lamps, heads were spinning round each
+other; and here, too, the tuft of hair belonging to some fair one came
+in very close contact with the face of the partner or spectator. The
+conversation was highly interesting, and it was not long before our
+old host had grasped a jolly maiden, and was swinging round with the
+others. He could not understand that neither myself, nor the steersmen,
+who now came in, would know anything of the dance.
+
+Much too early, according to his idea, did we leave his hospitable
+roof, and much too little honour had we done to his rum. He could
+not reproach himself in that respect, for, even after our departure,
+he continued to probe the contents of the bottle in quiet solitude,
+eventually giving unmistakable proofs to the still active company in
+the ball-room of the effect produced by a somewhat excessive enjoyment
+of spirituous liquors.
+
+The morning of the 18th of July brought more life than usual into our
+neighbourhood. A small coasting vessel, bound to Julianeshaab, had,
+on her return journey, put into Kaksimiut harbour in order to land
+some goods and take in oil. She brought the news that the Peru, on
+her way to Julianeshaab, would that day pass Kaksimiut. For Motzfeld,
+besides various other things, they had brought a barrel of liquor. The
+receiver had at once proved both quality and quantity, and found them
+excellent, which accounted for his spirits being of the best order when
+he came on board that morning. Not long after that, we saw him pull
+out of the bay in holiday costume, in an Umiak (from which waved the
+Danish flag) to pay a visit to the Peru. Only the cylinder hat had he
+taken the precaution to leave at home. From the Constance, too, a boat
+went to the Peru. Myself and several other officers, with some of the
+men, went on shore. Agatha (it was ten a.m.) had not yet had time to
+wash herself since yesterday, and on the faces of several other young
+ladies were evident traces of yesterday’s exertions in the ball-room.
+Mrs. Motzfeld sat in her house in her new Natzek. On the bench, by the
+window, which was provided with a crane, stood the liquor-cask, and
+close by a full-drawn bottle and a large glass. This day the merchant’s
+house seemed to have a great attraction for the people of Kaksimiut;
+for they spoke oftener than usual, and did not go away without
+something to strengthen them. The old Greenland captain came from the
+schooner, the catechist came; indeed, every one came who had time, and
+as often as he had time. The cause of this unusual frequency it is easy
+to guess. When we returned on board we learned the news as to what
+the Peru had brought with her, and also that Mr. Motzfeld, faithful
+as ever, without further consideration, had started in the Peru for
+Julianeshaab. Kaksimiut was, therefore, bereft of its head. Indeed, as
+I came on shore in the afternoon for a ramble through the island it lay
+deserted and still. Through many cross-roads and by-ways, I returned to
+the settlement. Not a creature was to be seen. At last some of our men
+turned up, who at this unusual hour were returning on board. “Well,”
+said I, “is Kaksimiut dead to-day?” “No, not that,” they answered, “but
+they are all drunk.” And so they were. They lay in the huts, young and
+old, men and women, under the influence of liquor, no longer masters
+of themselves. Motzfeld’s wife was no exception to the rule, and even
+her offspring were in high spirits. They had got possession of the
+emblem of their father’s pride and dignity, the cylinder hat, and were
+quarrelling over it to their hearts’ content, as, sitting on the roof
+of the house, they played with it as prettily as an ape or a cat might.
+Only two of the whole number of the inhabitants were really sober,
+Hans, Motzfeld’s son, and a young girl named Concordia, who was a
+praiseworthy exception to the rest of her countrywomen. In the evening
+they brought the crane back to the ship. How much, or rather how
+little, of his liquor Mr. Motzfeld found left on his return, what heavy
+punishment he awarded to the culprits who had drunk it, and with what
+joy he saw his cylinder hat once more--of all this I was unfortunately
+not an eyewitness; but the respected reader can, without much trouble,
+picture it for himself. The next morning brought a thick fog, which,
+however, cleared at noon, and the wind was fair; we, therefore, weighed
+anchor, and bade adieu to Kaksimiut. Above, on the rocks, sat the
+maidens of the place; they had soon formed a fervent friendship for our
+people on board, and, as they saw the whole establishment departing,
+waved a sad farewell to us; indeed, some of them were wiping their
+eyes. So rare and entertaining a visit, and of such short duration!
+
+In and out among the islands, we now floated northwards. Soon the
+steep fall of the giant Serminalik, the most southerly moraine in West
+Greenland lay before us. A powerful broad belt here forced the inner
+ice over the berg into the sea. Since we had left East Greenland we had
+not seen a glacier so near to us. On the east side, too, under the
+same latitude, there are some huge ones; but there the belt of moraines
+reaches down to 60° of lat., whilst this most southerly one lies quite
+alone in 61°. After a long open space to the north of Frederickshaab is
+another large one, the Iisblink, with its feet dipping in the sea.
+
+Soon we had the island of Tunarsoit, and the wild, jagged rocks of the
+high Malenefjelds, in sight. We hoped to be in Arsut the following
+morning, but in the straits between Nunarsoit and the continent
+the wind changed, and we had to ride at anchor. This was the more
+necessary, as it presently became more violent, and at noon a regular
+storm burst; so we lay once more bound to a deserted strand. The
+weather would not even allow of any further excursion, as the wind
+brought up heavy masses of fog, rendering any ramble unsafe. It did
+not last long, however. On the morning of the 22nd of July I noticed
+with joy, from the rolling of the ship, that we must be at sea, and I
+was right. With a favourable wind we had weighed anchor at half-past
+four a.m., and going through the straits of Torsukatek, were at sea.
+Already far to the south, when I came on deck, lay the rocky pinnacles
+of Malenefjeld, and on that side of the shore they showed me the
+entrance to a Fjord; that was the Arsut Fjord, close to which the
+Kryolite layers are found, which would, of course, be very interesting
+to me. If one leaves Rome without having seen the Pope, it is a sad
+misfortune; still perhaps one may see him the next time one comes.
+But when a geologist has so much and for so long traversed Greenland,
+and now, when near one of the most interesting spots, is recklessly
+carried past it, his misfortune is very much greater. It could not be
+helped, however. We left it further and further behind. In the warm,
+bright sunshine a troop of fin-back whales were playing round us,
+which, in their security, swam with astonishing boldness so close to
+the ship that they dashed the water all over the deck. The gambols of
+these colossal creatures were wonderfully interesting. It was like an
+explosion under the sea, when two or more of these whales leaped at
+the same time out of the water, and rested on the surface, beating it
+with their flappers, until the sound was like that of great guns. The
+natives had left us, and now these giants of the Arctic seas had become
+our escort.
+
+In the evening, unfortunately, the wind died away, and the next morning
+we had not advanced much farther, namely, still in the latitude
+of Frederickshaab. It was not long before the people noticed us.
+Natives approached, and later a boat came alongside with the colonial
+officials. At first Captain Bang did not seem to wish to cast anchor
+again; but at length several different circumstances induced him to do
+so, and thus we were once more to go on shore.
+
+Frederickshaab lies in 62° Lat. and 50° 1′ Long. The colony has not
+the extent of Julianeshaab. The district lies at the extremity of a
+Fjord-arm, into which a small stream flows. It is not protected by
+islands, and offers a safe harbour for any ship running in; but the
+Greenland captains avoid lying-to in Frederickshaab, as they are often
+prevented for weeks together, by fog and contrary winds, from running
+out again. The houses lie on a plateau between three mountains; to the
+right and left rise two round-headed granite peaks and a wild jagged
+rock, the Kotenfjeld, which shuts in the prospect. From any of these
+summits one has a most pleasant view of the colony. By the harbour
+lie the magazines. The governor’s house scarcely differs from the
+others, and, owing to its surroundings, appears very low. Some other
+buildings, the clergyman’s and the assistant’s dwellings, stand in
+the same row. A cleanly-kept broad foot-way, and an open space before
+the chief building paved with gravel, look well against the green
+plots within the colony. The church stands at the upper end of the
+settlement, and is surrounded by a grave-yard hedged in with stakes.
+Between this and the houses of the officials stand the huts of the
+natives, which throughout are supplied with plank roofs. Seen from a
+distance, Frederickshaab seems an exception to the general rule in
+Greenland; but when you go into the district itself, there is the same
+disorder and the same intolerable stench as there is everywhere else.
+The church-yard, which at a distance looks quite decent, really reminds
+one more of a place where the flayer does his work; for on the graves
+and on the sward lie bones brought by the dogs; whale bones, birds,
+and fish in a state of putridity, lie all around, and nothing but the
+stakes separated this place from that lying in the same state between
+the houses, which is still more disfigured by the inevitable dung-heaps.
+
+Besides the governor, his assistant, and a pastor, no Europeans live
+here. Nevertheless, the natives, who are without exception half-breeds,
+have a strikingly European cast of countenance, the men as well as the
+women. Besides this, Ivikät being in the neighbourhood, from whence
+the Kryolite ships frequently have to put into Frederickshaab, they
+are accustomed to intercourse with Europeans. I even saw some native
+girls going about in European dress, though evidently without the
+necessary under-clothes; and comical enough they looked, as they
+slid down hill-slopes with the rest of their tribe. The population
+is, moreover, not at all numerous, and exceeds but little that of
+Kaksimiut. The object of our stay in Frederickshaab was entirely that
+of baking bread and brewing beer. Brewing beer is in Greenland, in
+the mission-stations as well as in the colonies, a business, and the
+beverage produced is very agreeable. The German missionaries brew white
+beer, the Danes their much-loved brown beer. Of course, the malt is
+brought from Europe. A very primitively-erected brewing place is found
+in every large district, as well as a kneading trough, and both were
+found here. Brewing and baking were done with most industrious haste;
+and so it happened that the bread failed, and the beer turned sour,
+though through the whole sea voyage both would have to be used. We
+did not try to make any acquaintances in Frederickshaab, though our
+own men were soon friendly with the natives, and the customary dance
+easily arranged; but they did not seem to be so comfortable as in
+Julianeshaab. We were invited, through Captain Bang, to the governor’s,
+but did not go, as subsequently there was a death in the house.
+
+Mr. Hildebrandt had an opportunity of greatly astonishing the natives
+by his cleverness in canoe paddling. As everywhere else, so in the
+harbour of Frederickshaab, the Constance was continually surrounded by
+visitors, who, by their odd ways, whiled away the time.
+
+Matters, however, did not always go so smoothly with the Kajak; and
+they often had an opportunity of making acquaintance with the watery
+element. Thus it happened to the aforesaid gentleman, who got upset
+with the Kajak, and came on board wet as a poodle. But, when close
+to the man-rope he turned round, sprang into the water, and swam
+in the bitterly cold stream around the Constance. Such a thing the
+Greenlanders had never before seen; and although they are, as it were,
+part of their Kajaks, they can none of them swim: the bitter cold of
+the element of itself forbids it. Their astonishment found vent in all
+sorts of exclamations, when Mr. Hildebrandt returned on board. Whenever
+they saw him afterwards, they begged him to repeat the trick once more.
+Patiently they waited the whole day by the ship, but the artistic
+swimmer did not satisfy their curiosity.
+
+The neighbourhood of Frederickshaab offered but little that was
+interesting. We passed the time in aimless rambles, and viewing the
+prospects from the heights which, at last, rewarded us with a lovely
+distant view. We could not, however, count upon our stay here; for
+already, on the evening of the 24th, our business on shore was nearly
+ended, so that we might hope to put to sea the following day. But not
+until early on the 25th of July could the anchor be weighed for our
+homeward voyage, when, for the last time, we trod on Greenland soil.
+The dense ice out at sea forced the Constance still to keep a northward
+course. Wind and weather favoured us. By the evening we had the great
+Ice-blink near Fiskernäss, the second great glacier of South Greenland,
+close to us. The huge masses of ice showed the gateways and arches in
+a greenish light; and now louder, now fainter, we heard the washing of
+the water. A lovely evening closed the day. Once more did we see that
+magic light, which we had already learnt to recognize on the other
+side of the ice, and of which in our homely latitudes, we can form no
+idea. But the burning red clouds boded no good; and, indeed, we tacked
+the next day in a pretty strong wind and thick fog.
+
+As it cleared on the 29th of July, we could see far away the bergs of
+the Greenland coast. On the 30th, the Constance took a westerly course.
+Towards evening, the well-known rushing of breakers on the ice struck
+our ears. Soon the barrier was before us, but the floes lay far apart;
+and how different they looked! Jagged and crumbling, small, and to our
+eyes insignificant, they drifted about, the sport of the waves. Once
+more we heard the well-known command on the ice, “floe upon floe, keep
+back!” Herds of seals which lay upon them lifted their heads curiously.
+They should not want a farewell greeting; and soon the needle-gun
+resounded, sending death to the harmless creatures, for the last time
+on our voyage.
+
+Behind us lay the ice, which closed up, forming a blinding white strip;
+and the Greenland icebergs, gilded with the setting sun, sent us their
+parting greeting. They sank deeper and deeper; the veil of night spread
+over all; and when we came on deck the following day, we were in
+latitude 65° 11′, on the high sea in Davis Straits. “31st July. No more
+ice! Set southwards, and--O heavenly music of the word--homewards!”
+
+This is the last note in my day-book. I write it with feelings too deep
+for expression. A few weeks more, and all we have gone through will lie
+behind us, and all that we have suffered (if God will) be at an end!
+But how long will this trial of our patience last?
+
+After nearly a month’s voyage across the lonely North Atlantic Ocean,
+the Shetland Isles at last hove in sight. Soon they were reached,
+and a fresh wind drove us into the German Ocean. In all directions
+did we scour the broad plain with our glasses to discover the first
+German vessel, which, perhaps, taking the direct way to our country,
+might hurry on with the news of our return. But none were to be seen.
+On the great Doggerbank were none but Dutch and Moravian fishermen.
+The entrance of the Kattegat was now reached; the sea around us was
+animated. In the latitude of Skagen there lay with us 300 ships, whose
+destination was the Baltic Sea. But still no German sail showed itself!
+What did it mean? Had the German nation given up seafaring since our
+departure? Then the pilot came on board, and brought the news of the
+great events which had taken place in Europe in the interval. Now
+for the first time did we learn how that the long-impending war with
+our old enemy had broken out; and how that the Danes themselves must
+in truth confess that hitherto the German arms had been crowned with
+victory. Now all was cleared up. Now we understood why we had met with
+no German vessels, why hundreds of German ships lay at anchor in the
+roads of Helsingör. How it flew from mouth to mouth! We were not yet on
+our home soil, and all the younger ones were eager to be off to France;
+they only feared “it might be over before they reached it in time to
+have a brush with the French.”
+
+On the 1st of September we at length reached Copenhagen. The handsome
+pleasant town, with its beautiful beech-groves, made a doubly
+satisfactory impression on us strangers. How different the landscape
+appeared here in comparison with the waste shores of Greenland! With
+pleasure, even in the Sound, did our eyes roam over the banks; and with
+joy did we greet the neat suburbs and the green trees, which we had not
+seen for so long. Here, in Copenhagen, were we restored to civilized
+society; the two captains had gone on shore together; we remained on
+board. The Constance was laid up in the Train-oil dock.
+
+It now entered our heads that it was necessary to pay some attention
+to our outward appearance; and our ragged community had a hearty laugh
+at one another. In our present condition we could not leave the ship,
+at least not by day, or we should certainly have been compromised
+with the police. Some in sealskin caps, some in “kamiken,”[40] others
+in sea-boots, from which the toes protruded, with ragged trousers,
+and threadbare coats, or Iceland shirts; thus we returned home. At
+last Captain Hegemann fetched us away in a fly in the twilight. Our
+first visit was to a clothing warehouse; and one cannot blame the
+owner for trying to protect his goods from us until he had received a
+certificate from the Consul, which gave him a little more confidence.
+Then essentially improved in appearance, we drove to the hotel; even
+the host seemed surprised at the sight of such unusual guests; but we
+were changed for the better, and could walk through the streets of
+Copenhagen without fear of making acquaintance with the police through
+outward appearance.
+
+Thanks to the telegraph, the news of our happy return spread from one
+end to the other of our country, and soon more and more distinct
+tidings followed. On the 3rd of September, the same day that through
+the home provinces, indeed through the whole of Europe, the news of
+the night battle of Sedan flew, we trod on German soil, coming through
+Friedericia in Schleswig. Flags were everywhere displayed. In the
+evening, every suburb we reached was illuminated, until we entered
+Hamburg in time to witness the great illumination in celebration of the
+victories, and thus greeted our country, as it were, in triumph.
+
+Thus we all stood again on native soil; and after so much distress and
+danger, we had the happiness, scarcely hoped for in many weary hours,
+of shaking hands with relations and friends. We should certainly have
+preferred it, had we, like the Germania later on, been able to run into
+Bremen harbour with our good ship, instead of coming into Bremen in an
+express car by the east gate from Hamburg; but it was so destined. And
+now that all is done, and our fate accomplished by a higher power, may
+all murmuring as to the right or wrong be far from us.
+
+As the consciousness of honourably fulfilling one’s duty is comforting,
+so we Hansa men will quietly await the judgment of our contemporaries.
+We cannot flatter ourselves that we have greatly increased the
+knowledge of Greenland; but we have shown what man’s nature can bear,
+and what man’s strength and perseverance can accomplish.
+
+The narrator closes this account with the hope that he has succeeded in
+rendering these extraordinary adventures, which must always be unique
+in their kind, interesting to the reader.
+
+
+
+
+                               PART II.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER I.
+
+   CONTINUATION OF THE VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA, AFTER HER SEPARATION
+   FROM THE HANSA. LANDING OF THE GERMANIA ON EAST GREENLAND. FROM
+   21ST JULY TO 5TH AUGUST, 1869.
+
+   Meeting with the whaler Bienenkorb.--Visit on board.--Small
+   prospect of reaching the coast.--Advantage of steam in
+   ice-voyages.--Animal life.--Wonderful effect of the Arctic
+   climate on health.--Ice scenery.--Among the ice-packs.--First
+   sight of land.--The Bienenkorb and Hudson in sight.--Visit from
+   the former.--A mirage.--Nearing the coast.--Pendulum Island in
+   sight.--Open water westwards.
+
+
+Thus on the 20th July, an event took place, as unlooked for as it was
+fatal in its consequences for the success of our undertaking, without
+raising gloomy forebodings in any of us. To be separated for a short
+time from our sister ship under existing circumstances caused no
+uneasiness; at noon, therefore, on the day that the Hansa disappeared
+in the fog we set all sail, but at two o’clock we struck upon the ice
+and were obliged to turn. We afterwards found that this was a tongue of
+ice which the Hansa had passed to windward of, to enable her to advance
+further westward. On account of the thick fog we laid our topsail
+aback. At five o’clock the atmosphere cleared a little, but though we
+watched eagerly, the Hansa was no longer to be seen; to the south-west
+we saw a whaler in the drift-ice. We had already seen this ship in
+the morning, and, as it was our last chance of sending news home, had
+hastened to finish our letters. It was a curious sight; everywhere and
+in every possible position we were busy writing; the ship might have
+been taken for an academy of science in which all were working out
+a difficult problem. As we approached we saw that it was a steamer,
+and from its red and white flag, must be the Bienenkorb, Captain
+Hagen, belonging to Mr. Rosenthal of Bremerhaven. Dr. Dorst of Jülich
+was on this vessel taking meteorological, astronomical and magnetic
+observations. We crossed to her, taking with us a whole packet of
+letters. It was indeed a pleasure to us to be once more amongst other
+men, and doubtless those of the Bienenkorb thought the same. This ship
+was five times as big as the Germania, a somewhat old-fashioned craft,
+full rigged, and had only had machinery within the last few years. On
+deck in a large cage was a bear and her two cubs; fortunately for them,
+on board a whaler they were not likely to want for food.
+
+One would think that a creature so powerful and active could never
+be taken alive, but on its hunting expeditions among the drift-ice
+it frequently trusts itself to the water, and here in spite of its
+endurance, man is more active and clever, and with a well managed boat,
+a lucky cast of the noose generally falls on the neck of the swimming
+bear, when half dragged and half swimming he is hoisted on deck like
+any other animal, the noose round its neck, being a guarantee for
+its peaceful behaviour. On their return they are generally sold to
+some menagerie or Zoological Garden, the price of a full-grown animal
+being 100 or 150 thalers; sometimes they are killed and skinned, the
+skin being salted, and afterwards sold for 15 or 20 thalers. Looking
+beyond the ship we saw the tail fins of some narwhals (_Monodon
+monoceros_, L.). These creatures are common here, but are seldom
+harpooned as they are uncommonly quick in their movements. We then
+went down into the cabin to enjoy the usual bottle of sherry. Captain
+Hagen’s report of the condition of the ice was most unfavourable. Since
+the beginning of June easterly winds had prevailed, on account of
+which the ice was now dense and closely packed for some miles. These
+observations were afterwards confirmed by the Hansa, which about this
+time was blockaded by the ice. We also learnt that there were several
+ships further south, amongst which we hoped to meet with Captain Gray,
+commander of the Eclipse from Peterhead (Scotland). Dr. Dorst showed
+us some interesting drawings of the narwhal and several views of Jan
+Mayen, which island the Bienenkorb was fortunate enough to see in a
+clear atmosphere. We returned to the Germania about midnight. Meanwhile
+the wind had freshened, but there was a thick fog; so we had to remain
+under sail amongst the block. The following day at noon (21st) the
+weather brightened, and we saw that we were more or less surrounded
+with drift-ice; and with a light south-west breeze it was useless to
+attempt any advance westward. We therefore lay-to, and as there was a
+large floe close to us, with several pools of water upon it, we landed
+in order to renew our store of fresh water, which was nearly exhausted.
+This was the first time during the voyage that we had set foot on the
+ice, and the opportunity of closely observing it was not lost. Besides
+this, the deep blue light proceeding from the cavity of an ice block
+was subjected to an analysis by the spectroscope.
+
+When our scientific observations were over we joined the row of
+water-bearers, forming two lines along which the full and empty buckets
+were merrily passed, but it was midnight before our task was done and
+we retired to rest.
+
+At two a.m. we made an attempt to advance, but the fog was still too
+thick.
+
+  [Illustration: ICE-DRIFT FORMATIONS.]
+
+In the night a seal was killed: it was a small young thing and was
+brought on deck alive, when it looked boldly around and seemed ready to
+fall upon its enemies. Soon afterwards we obtained a good specimen of
+the large petrel (_Uria brunnichii_). Until the 23rd the weather
+remained foggy: we kept tacking in the loose drift-ice and along the
+edge of the heavy ice which seemed everywhere closed. To the north of
+74° we found it so solid and huge that the captain determined, if he
+could find an opening, to go south of 74°, instead of beyond it.
+
+The 24th July was very cold, and we had a fire in the cabin. Towards
+evening we again saw the Bienenkorb to the north of us, and in 73° 40′
+lat. we thought that our efforts might be successful; accordingly on
+Sunday the 25th July at nine a.m. steam was got up and we forced our
+way westward through the ice; at first it was pretty thick, so that,
+occasionally, we could only make a way through the floes by boring
+with high steam pressure and full sail. At noon, after making sixteen
+miles in a westerly direction, we reached open water; but after a few
+miles the ice closed again. We then went more southward and, later on,
+somewhat eastward, still steaming along the dense pack-ice; the weather
+was gloomy and rainy, and at eight p.m. it was so foggy that we had to
+lay by a large floe, that we might not run into a “cul-de-sac,” and be
+blocked up by the ice.
+
+The great advantage we possessed in our steam can scarcely be
+overrated, for during the foggy weather we could with our heated
+machinery remain quiet on one spot. If the ice closed upon us, we could
+steam to another suitable spot, and in clear weather could in a few
+hours inspect several miles of the icy edge for an opening. Besides
+the determination of the ship’s position, and the usual meteorological
+observations, soundings were made when possible, magnetic observations
+taken, photographing, fishing, and so on.
+
+Of the lower class of animals there was little that was new, and we
+tried in vain for the _Clio borealis_, the chief food of the
+whale: seals we saw frequently.
+
+The bird world remained the same, but was poorly represented. Solitary
+mallemuckes were seldom wanting, besides which were snow buntings
+(_Larus eburneus_) and robber gulls (_Lestris_), and between
+the floes swam small groups of divers and black guillemots (_Uria
+grylle_).
+
+In the neighbourhood of much ice we found that the temperature sank
+considerably, from 31.52° Fahr. to 30.20° Fahr., but the most striking
+fact was the small difference between the heat of the day and night.
+This was at the most only one degree, and frequently less than that.
+Such an unusual state of things must have some effect on the human
+frame. Such an equal climate is not possible in the temperate and
+torrid zones, and only in the Arctic latitudes among the ice; of course
+this must be as beneficial to the skin as to the respiratory organs.
+Indeed we were all in the best of health, and this was astonishing,
+considering the low temperature, fog, and other damp we had to
+encounter: not one of us suffering from catarrh. But we must not lose
+sight of the fact that our acclimatization was gradual, we were not
+suddenly set down in the ice, but approached it gradually.
+
+On the 27th of July, at noon, according to astronomical calculations,
+we were in 73° 7′ N. Lat., and 16° 4′ W. Long. from Greenwich. The
+weather was fine, with a light south wind; we steamed some nautical
+miles westward, and again came upon densely packed ice, without a sign
+of water anywhere; and the channel by which we had just come began to
+close, so that we were obliged to steam back to prevent ourselves from
+being blocked. At eleven p.m. the atmosphere cleared entirely, and we
+had the first sight of the midnight sun. Of open water we could see but
+little, though to the north it seemed pretty free.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 270._
+
+  IN THE PACK.]
+
+The floe by which we lay was, like many more around us, very large and
+wild and jagged in appearance, resembling a miniature mountain range.
+In some places the surface was slightly arched, falling gently to the
+water; yonder were steep ridges, broken by a ravine, through which ran
+a small brook. On one spot lay blocks of different sizes thrown one
+upon another; and at another spot the ice rose like steep rocky
+masses, or solitary columns, points, and peaks, to a height of from
+twenty to thirty feet. Forcing our way through this labyrinth, we were
+astonished at the sight of a fine broad sea of clear, light green
+water. The snow, changed into ice, covered these floes so thickly that
+we often sank as if in soft snow-drifts to the depth of from two to
+four feet.
+
+We were particularly interested in watching the small creatures in
+the sea, which we did by lying flat upon the ice and looking over
+the edge of the floe: the stickleback (_Calanus hyperboreus_,
+K.) were turning summersaults up to the surface, their red feelers
+coming into strong relief against the blue background; then came a
+yellow spot, gradually increasing until we recognized a small crawfish
+(_Lysianassa_) hurriedly wending its way to the surface, and then
+laying itself in a niche, or on a tongue of ice to rest, nothing but
+the constant motion of its webbed feet showing that the creature lived.
+Now and again in the depths, a fine Beroë might be seen moving slowly
+on its way.
+
+It was a fine, still midnight, too wonderfully solemn and grand to be
+easily forgotten. The fog had almost entirely disappeared, and lay to
+the east, like a bank over the water. The sea was perfectly calm, so
+that the ice was clearly reflected, and where the water was visible
+it had taken different colours; under the clouds it lay dark, and
+from blackish brown to yellowish; and where the atmosphere was clear
+it glistened a transparent green. Even to the brush of an experienced
+artist, it would be no light task to render the different colours and
+lights truly; this soft red of the sun upon the ice; on the shady side
+of the blocks, the softest blue and violet; and between, the deepest,
+coldest shadow. Effects such as these can only be produced in all
+their beauty by the midnight sun in a region of ice; indeed, to fully
+appreciate the peculiar beauty of such a scene, one must see it with
+one’s own eyes.
+
+All had long since been hushed on board, but we felt no fatigue. This
+wonderful repose of nature, without either motion or life, overcomes
+one with a feeling of boundless desolation and solitude. Now and again
+the stillness is broken by a thundering and cracking, softened by the
+distance, and suddenly a rushing of water is heard, accompanied by a
+groaning and blowing; it is a herd of narwhals coming to the surface
+for breath. But the hours of night are fast running out, and with one
+more look we descend to our cabin.
+
+  [Illustration: FIRST APPEARANCE OF LAND.]
+
+About four a.m., as we were about to start again, a dense fog rolled
+up; some hours later, however, it dispersed, and we steamed in a
+northerly direction, as from that quarter we should most probably
+sooner see open water. At half-past eight the fog cleared completely,
+and we forced our way through a chain of connected floes, when in a
+north-westerly direction we found comparatively open water; and after
+making about sixteen nautical miles, at one a.m. on the 29th saw land
+distinctly. From our position, this must have been Cape Broer Ruys. By
+four a.m., we had advanced so far, that only to the east did there seem
+to be any loose ice; we therefore stopped at a brash to fill our boiler
+with fresh water, and wait for a change. The only living thing we were
+likely to see here was a bear; but although our hunters looked eagerly
+around, his shining yellow coat was nowhere to be seen.
+
+As the atmosphere was so clear in the morning, we made some
+observations on the degrees of the sun’s heat. A blackened-bulb
+thermometer rose to nearly 99.50° Fahr. A common instrument, just above
+the snow, showed 50° Fahr.
+
+On the 29th of July, our observations at noon gave our position as
+73° 2′ N. Lat., and 16° 19′ W. Long., which compared with the log
+reckoning, showed us to have made twenty-seven nautical miles more
+southwards in two days’ work. This we partly attributed to the north
+wind, which had caused a rapid drift of ice.
+
+The attempts of the last few days showed that in this latitude it was
+impossible to get through; so, after being driven back to 73°, the
+captain determined to keep clear of the ice and to try again in 74°, as
+he thought that the north wind might have made an opening. Accordingly
+we steamed eastward, partly through thick drifting ice. Here we saw
+two ships, which turned out to be the Bienenkorb and the Hudson; we
+advanced to meet the former, and Captain Hagen and Dr. Dorst came on
+board. The captain was disheartened at not having caught a single
+whale; he considered it impossible to reach the coast this year, and
+determined to begin his homeward journey in a few days. Of the Hansa,
+during the last nine days, he had seen nothing. At ten p.m. on the 29th
+of July, we took leave of the Bienenkorb, and steered in a northerly
+direction to try and reach the coast in 74° N. Lat.
+
+The weather was clear and still, and we had a good opportunity of
+observing the refraction of light and the mirage. The whole atmosphere
+was quivering with a kind of wavy motion, so that the exact outline of
+the object was often so distorted as to be unrecognizable. It may be
+imagined that pictures of things far beyond our range of sight could
+thus be seen. Scoresby relates, and it was afterwards proved true, that
+he once saw and recognized his father’s ship, perfectly, in the mirage
+when it was thirty miles distant.
+
+The effects of this phenomenon on the distant ice was wonderful;
+sometimes it appeared like a mighty wall, and sometimes like a town
+rich in towers and castles.
+
+On the 30th of July the weather was fine, and the wind, to our joy,
+westerly; the ice was, however, so impassable that we had to steam
+still further north, as the captain found that within the last eight
+days the ice barrier had shifted some degrees to the east, and he had
+hopes of finding a large opening in the pack-ice.
+
+On the 31st of July, at four p.m., we were in 73° 59′ N. Lat., and 13°
+3′ W. Long., when we saw a great deal of loose ice, and forcing our way
+through, steered in a westerly direction. Towards evening the wind died
+away, and we got up steam, the floes lying loosely scattered around
+us. Here, as on other occasions, steam stood us in good stead, and we
+threaded our way easily amongst them.
+
+By ten a.m., on the 1st of August, we had steamed without interruption
+thirty-six miles, and were of course so much nearer the coast; here
+a dense barrier prevented our farther advance. Land was in sight
+(Pendulum Island), which by a strong refraction seemed much raised and
+transfigured. The same refraction also showed us what appeared to be
+open water westwards. Mr. Sengstacke was of opinion that it was only
+a few nautical miles distant, but he soon saw his mistake. That there
+was open water under the land, there was scarcely a doubt; but it was
+separated from us by an icy barrier, several German miles broad. Under
+these circumstances, the captain thought it better to keep our post and
+wait for a change in the position of the ice.[41]
+
+Ross himself lays great stress upon the fact that, in the ice, a little
+judgment and a little patience go farther than advancing headlong, and
+often save much danger. Here we increased our zoological collection by
+a fine reddish Clio; the dredging net was also let down at 224 fathoms,
+but brought up nothing but stones.
+
+Universal interest was raised by the mallemuckes (_Mergulus
+alle_), which for some days had followed us in flocks. Voraciousness
+is the chief characteristic of these birds; and if a large solid piece
+of bacon is thrown into the water, which they cannot swallow at a gulp,
+a dreadful battle ensues; sometimes two or three begin upon it at
+different ends, working both with beak and claw. We often fastened a
+piece of bacon to a string or hook, and easily caught one and brought
+it on deck. The bird is not ugly; its colour is variable; the young
+ones are greyish, whilst the old ones are, with the exception of the
+wings, almost always white; its head is the most peculiar looking part
+of it, being highly arched; its strong bluish beak is high and bent
+like a hook.
+
+On the night of the 2nd of August a thick fog came on, lasting the
+whole day, and to prevent our impatience from gaining the mastery we
+all had recourse to the ropes.
+
+On the 3rd it was clear; the ice had indeed changed its position: we
+were more surrounded than ever by floes, and to the east still less
+water could be seen. We, however, broke through the ice, and steamed in
+a north-westerly direction. The floes became larger and larger; and at
+last the endless brashes and boundless ice-fields came in sight. At ten
+p.m. we anchored by a large field, on account of the fog; we sounded
+155 fathoms, nothing but mud. We were in 74° 18′ N. Lat. and 16° 6′ W.
+Long.
+
+On the 4th, at a quarter-past eight a.m., we started westward once
+more; the air was thick with snow; to the west we saw a dark water sky,
+and steered between the brashes and fields in that direction. At nine
+we came into a large piece of open water, with a few floes drifting. At
+noon we anchored, principally on account of the boiler, which had to be
+cleared from the salt. We were in 74° 19′ N. Lat. and 16° 59′ W. Long.,
+not more than thirty-one nautical miles from Sabine Island.
+
+On these fields we first saw the bears; there were two watching our
+ship with great curiosity. Our first shot missed, and they hurriedly
+took to flight.
+
+At ten p.m. fog gradually came on, and we were not more than five
+German miles from the coast; but at half-past ten it cleared again, and
+the whole group of islands lay clear and distinct before us. The water
+was open, and we made straight for Griper Roads.
+
+We were all greatly excited, and, in spite of the severe cold, remained
+nearly the whole night on deck. In the early morning we had a fall of
+snow, giving the ship a thick white covering. A few miles from land a
+large brash lay direct in our course; this we sailed round, and at last
+anchored in a small bay, which was afterwards our winter harbour.
+
+On the 5th of August we dropped anchor on Greenland soil, and a loud
+“hurrah!” arose as we planted our flag, which also waved proudly from
+the mainmast.
+
+In the day-book we find that at the beginning of our voyage strong
+north-westerly winds prevailed, which of course delayed us. We all
+noticed the increase of temperature, both in the atmosphere and the
+water, from the coast of Norway until the latitude of the Shetland
+Islands, and then a decrease in both after crossing the Arctic circle.
+The influence of the warm gulf-stream was unmistakable, and was
+observed by both ships.
+
+During the first part of the month of July easterly winds prevailed,
+driving the ice up to the borders, and making it impossible to break
+through. In the second part of July northerly and southerly winds
+alternated without bringing any great change in the ice; but at the
+beginning of August strong westerly winds set in, so loosening it that
+we easily made our way through. A glance at the ship’s course on the
+chart will show distinctly how the ice shifted in the beginning of
+August. Before this time it had been impossible to reach the coast.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+
+             PENDULUM ISLAND. STATE OF THE ICE NORTHWARDS.
+                      LANDING ON SHANNON ISLAND.
+
+   Accident to Dr. Pansch.--Boat voyage to the
+   mainland.--Scientific operations.--Attempt of the Germania to
+   advance northwards.--Musk-oxen.
+
+
+The group of islands known under the name of Pendulum Islands were
+first discovered and appropriated by Clavering in the year 1823. He
+anchored his ship, the Griper, on the south side of the largest island,
+between it and the mainland. On this side of the island is good anchor
+ground; several glacier streams debouche here, bringing with them soil
+and mud, and the roads are protected from heavy ice by a small island
+lying in front, which, from the number of walrus seen there, we called
+Walrus Island.
+
+According to our instructions, the position of Sabine’s Observatory
+was to be sought for and newly marked, after which we were to advance
+northward; this, of course, caused a stay of some days. The astronomers
+brought out their instruments to determine our exact position, and
+settling the magnetic constants on land, especially towards the tongue
+of land eastward from our harbour (Cairn Point), where we conjectured
+Sabine’s Observatory to have been, but of which, with all our seeking,
+we could find not the slightest trace, nor of anything else which
+might show that Europeans had ever visited the spot. First Lieutenant
+Payer made preparations for surveying the island; and Dr. Pansch roamed
+through it as explorer and naturalist, inspecting the remains of the
+Esquimaux huts found by Sabine on the tongue of land to the west of our
+stand-point.
+
+In the afternoon the weather, which on our arrival had been unfriendly
+and snowy, became fine and clear, with a perfect calm and a temperature
+of 41° Fahr. From the plateau of the neighbouring mountains, the
+barometrical height of which was 1040 feet, we had an extensive view
+over the sea from the north-east round to the south, as well as over
+the surrounding land, and along the coast to the north.
+
+The condition of the ice was here first distinctly seen. The straits
+between Sabine Island and the mainland, and also between the two
+largest islands, were completely blocked with apparently old land ice.
+Farther north, between Shannon Island and the mainland, as far as the
+eye could reach, the ice was firm, and, from its whole position, we
+might well conclude that there would be no breaking up that year. Along
+the coast, therefore, we could not advance further north; the only
+possible way remaining was by the eastern side of Shannon Island. This
+island was distinctly seen, and seemed to be quite surrounded with ice;
+though to the south side, and also to the east side of Pendulum Island,
+there was open water, only covered with drift-ice. The pack-ice to the
+east was very broad, stretching at least twelve nautical miles from
+the coast, but farther southward it made a considerable curve inward
+towards the land, and lay so dense that in 74°, and even more south
+than that, we should with difficulty have been able to penetrate it.
+
+Along the coast to the south there was also much open water, and
+Gael Hamkes Bay appeared to be free from ice. For the next few days
+scientific work kept us fully employed. In the evening Dr. Pansch
+unfortunately shot himself in the arm while following a reindeer, and
+had to be brought on board; we found, however, that the ball had only
+gone through the muscles, and that no bone had been injured; but it
+healed very slowly, and through the whole of the autumn, Dr. Pansch
+could take but a small share in all our scientific explorations.
+
+On the 6th it was slightly foggy, with a south wind; but the sun seemed
+bright and clear, and the work suffered no interruption. Lieutenant
+Payer roamed all over the island, topographically interested as well as
+bent upon hunting.
+
+We found many traces of reindeer, and saw a few without being fortunate
+enough to kill one, though we killed several walrus which stopped in
+our neighbourhood. The fat of these creatures was mostly thrown into
+the coal bunk for fuel, in case the Hansa did not join us again.
+
+On the 7th we made a boat excursion to the mainland, and took the
+opportunity of sounding the straits. In the middle, at eighty-one
+fathoms, it was muddy; towards Sabine Island and Cape Wynn the bottom
+was analogous to the character of the land. Indeed the soundings
+along the coast, as far as the Germania sailed, were uniform, and the
+character of the depths mostly indicated by the land. Shallows in any
+way dangerous did not exist along the coast that we sailed by.
+
+On our boat excursion we had a combat with a large walrus and her young
+one; the young one was killed easily, but the other escaped severely
+wounded. We found it in the afternoon dead upon a floe, and brought it
+on board.
+
+We climbed Cape Wynn, which was rather steep but not very high, and
+found on the top a plateau of several miles in circumference, quite
+free from snow, but scantily covered with vegetation. Farther inland we
+came to a valley watered by a glacier stream, and showing moss, grass,
+and many green spots. Behind this valley the mountains rose to a height
+of more than 1850 feet, but, even here, the summits were perfectly free
+from snow, which was only collected in the rifts. The snow-beds and the
+falls of snow in East Greenland are much smaller than we expected to
+find, and even less than in Spitzbergen, which lies so near.
+
+During our whole stay on this coast we only once, and that in June
+1870, saw the land with an entire covering of snow.
+
+The view to the north was bright and clear; in 75½° N. Lat. we could
+distinctly see the land edged with firm ice. Over the sea lay a thick
+fog, which spread over all by degrees. We went hunting for a reindeer,
+but missed it, and had to content ourselves with a white hare. We
+returned on board in the evening. In the night ice formed in the bay,
+which is also the case in summer during a calm with a clear sky, though
+about the beginning of August it disappears in the daytime. The heavy
+ice in the straits had these last few days drifted out to sea, and the
+land ice was more broken up.
+
+Thanks to the continued fine weather, work was finished by the 10th
+of August; the instruments brought on board, and all made ready to
+sail, which we did after piling a heap of stones on the eastern point
+of land, and, about 100 to 104 feet to the north of it, depositing a
+document containing the chief dates of our voyage.
+
+At six on the following morning we weighed anchor, and steered out of
+the harbour, with a light southerly breeze, northwards. We passed the
+low cliff at eight, and steamed along the firm ice, which at first
+stretched to the north and afterwards to the north-east.
+
+The land ice bordered the whole south side of Shannon Island, and also
+Cape Philip Broke, which was its most south-easterly point. We doubled
+it at noon, and found to the east of the island along the land ice,
+which has here an average breadth of from three to four nautical miles
+from the coast, a channel of from two to three miles broad, though in
+some places so blocked with ice that only by the help of both steam and
+sail could we make way through. The border of the land ice was pretty
+high; in many places the blocks lay piled up from forty to fifty feet
+high.
+
+At three p.m. we broke through a chain of brashes, on the other side of
+which was again open water. Here the pack-ice had retreated quite four
+nautical miles. As the wind was still south, steam was let off, and we
+set all sail to save our coals.
+
+At six p.m. we sighted more ice to the north, which seemed very thick.
+The wind shifted to the west and a dense fog came up, hiding everything
+from our sight; we therefore halted until the morning.
+
+We were now upon the most northerly point reached by Captain Clavering,
+but still Shannon Island stretched further to the north--much further
+than is given on the old charts. At first we thought there must be
+some mistake in the log’s reckoning, so, as a calm had fallen we
+lay-to. Our observations gave 75° 17′ Lat., and 17° 22′ W. Long. from
+Greenwich by our chronometer, the stand-point of which was on Sabine
+Island. Later on we ascertained that the position of the north-east
+cape of the island was 75° 26′ N. Lat., and 18° 0′ W. Long.
+
+The correctness of our reckoning we proved beyond a doubt, and we were
+therefore obliged to conclude that it was impossible for Clavering to
+have reached the spot indicated by Dr. Petermann on the chart at 75°
+14′ N.W. of the frozen bay, and that most likely the whole boat journey
+rested upon some misunderstanding; and later, upon going through
+Sabine’s and Clavering’s original reports, we found that this supposed
+journey had never actually taken place.
+
+We stayed by the ice all that day (12th August), partly to take more
+observations, and partly because there was so much ice in the north
+which could only be penetrated by a favourable wind or steam.
+
+In the afternoon the current set the ice strong to the south, at a
+speed of one and a quarter nautical miles an hour in a perfect calm;
+but from four to ten p.m. it stopped completely, when it began to drift
+again. It seemed, therefore, as if there was ebb and flood, but that
+the current to the south decidedly prevailed.[42] And with all our late
+observations we could not prove a decided ebb and flood, although the
+tidal wave could regularly be seen along the coast.
+
+In an ice-covered sea it is especially difficult to arrive at any right
+conclusion with regard to the currents. Those on the coast of East
+Greenland we most carefully noticed. Putting the experience of both
+ships together, and that of the floe on which the crew of the Hansa
+passed the winter, the following remarks are probably correct.
+
+Along the outer border of the ice, and among the drift-ice even as far
+as the fields themselves, which extend a long way within the barrier,
+there exists between the latitudes 76° and 72° a south-westerly
+current, the average speed of which is from eight to ten nautical miles
+in twenty-four hours. The direction taken by this current greatly
+depends upon the prevailing winds, and therefore often turns the
+foremost portion of the drift considerably to the east or west.
+
+Immediately under the coast, according to our observations, a southerly
+motion of both ice and water is not to be denied, but it is far
+weaker than that on the outer border; and in summer, when south winds
+prevail, it stops altogether, so that at times the ice fields are
+stationary, or only move up and down. In winter the drifting is much
+more considerable, owing to the prevailing north winds and storms.
+Regular ebb and tidal currents the Germania did not meet with in the
+latitudes through which she passed, but only a rising and falling
+of the water. In the autumn it seems certain that there is always
+a setting of the heavy pack-ice to the coast, and what is termed
+land-water disappears more and more; indeed, the question as regards
+the continuation of this land-water along the coast the whole of the
+summer cannot be entertained for a moment; its appearance depends more
+upon the formation of the coast, the prevailing winds, and other local
+influences, than on the running off of melted water.
+
+The ice in its drift southwards had turned somewhat to the east, thus
+leaving more and more open water behind it to the north.
+
+We therefore set sail on the 13th of August, and steered, with a light
+south wind, along the border of the firm land ice without meeting with
+any great difficulties. A fog bank rose in the south, which soon spread
+over Shannon, and the channel which we were following northward was
+becoming narrower and narrower; to the east lay boundless fields thick
+together, and to the north we soon saw more firm ice, so as the evening
+drew on, we lay-to.
+
+On the morning of the 14th the atmosphere was quite clear, and we saw
+with dismay that our further advance northward had come to a sudden
+halt.
+
+Some nautical miles ahead of us lay a monster ice field, stretching
+eastward as far as the eye could see, and apparently joining the land
+ice in the west. Far, far to the north-east behind the fields there
+seemed to be, judging from a small dark spot in the heavens, more
+water; further advance, however, was not possible until the field was
+set in motion and separated from the land ice.
+
+The weather was fine and clear; we therefore took some observations,
+which gave the latitude 75° 30′ 5″ and 17° 30′ W. Long.; the
+declination of the compass, taking the mean of several azimuths, 45°
+24′ W.
+
+At night there was mostly a calm, with bright weather. To the north
+and north-west there was a very strong refraction, which showed us
+that unless a steady wind set the sluggish masses in motion, further
+advance to the north would be amongst the impossibilities.
+
+We were all of opinion that in order to avoid the dangerous pressure of
+the ice fields, we should withdraw at once to the south side of Shannon
+Island, investigate it scientifically, and from the hills watch for a
+favourable opportunity of advancing.
+
+As a light breeze from the north-west sprang up on the morning of the
+15th, we set sail to carry out our plan; but in order to be sure that
+there was no opening to the north, we sailed along the northern border
+of the ice as far as the closely-packed end in the east, but without
+finding a way through.[43]
+
+At about ten p.m. we were once more to the east of the island, and
+the mean height of the firm ice above the water was from two to five
+feet, and large blocks of from thirty to forty feet were piled upon the
+shore in all directions--proof of the enormous force of the pressure
+of the fields in their revolving motion to the south. Our strait was
+very narrow in many places, and we sailed round Cape Philip Broke
+at half-past eleven a.m. on the 16th of August, and anchored on the
+south side in six fathoms of water, between some stranded blocks of
+ice. Everything was at once prepared for the land expedition, and the
+captain and Lieutenant Payer started first to reconnoitre.
+
+We found the remains of some Esquimaux summer-huts on the shore, with
+a great deal of moss and weeds. We climbed a height of about 230 feet,
+and were busy fixing a point for observation and building a cairn,
+when in the distance we saw a remarkable-looking animal which could be
+neither bear nor reindeer. Of musk-oxen we never thought for a moment,
+and, when at length we discovered that such was the creature before us,
+we were indeed surprised. It was hunted down, however, and killed by
+Peter Iversen.
+
+We afterwards found that the whole of the coast up to 77° was
+frequented by these ruminating creatures, but that to the south their
+numbers decreased. With the reindeer the opposite seemed to prevail;
+north of 75½° we did not see a single one.
+
+In the evening calm. Ice formed everywhere, but disappeared again upon
+the rising of a southerly breeze.
+
+The following day, on the 17th of August, the land expedition started.
+First-Lieutenant Payer received as helpmates--Mr. Sengstacke, Peter
+Iversen, and Peter Ellinger; and the two astronomers took Theodor
+Klentzer. They were provided with six days’ provisions, and ordered to
+return without delay when they saw the flag wave from the Cape.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER III.
+
+       SHANNON ISLAND, WITH THE TELL-PLATTE AND KLEIN-PENDULUM.
+
+   Situation, extent, and character of Shannon Island.--Freeden
+   Bay.--Exploration and measurement of Shannon Island.--Basaltic
+   columns.--Arctic fox.--Esquimaux dwellings.--Unsuspected
+   neighbourhood of the Hansa.--Sledge journey of Lieutenant
+   Payer to the Tell-Platte.--A polar bear.--Difficulty in
+   advancing.--Ascent of the Tell-Platte.--Beautiful prospect
+   of the Greenland Coast.--Low temperature.--Return of Dr.
+   Börgen’s excursion to Klein-Pendulum.--Esquimaux utensils.--The
+   Stufenberg.
+
+
+Shannon Island, which, according to our reckoning, stretches from 74°
+56′ to 75° 26′ N. Lat., is the lowest of all the large islands within
+the range of our coasting. In the north it reaches the considerable
+height of 305.2 metres, equal to 972 Rhenish feet[44] (barometrical
+measurement). To the east and south, however, the hills scarcely exceed
+500 feet; and the remaining portion of the island rises but a few feet
+above the level of the sea. On the south side is a somewhat important
+creek, which we named Freeden Bay; whilst in the north-east is a still
+deeper Fjord, stretching so far into the interior of the island as
+almost to reach Freeden Bay, so that the island is divided into two
+very unequal parts. Upon the whole, the shores of these bays are very
+low, and, as far as we can judge, they are seldom free from an icy
+covering; thus one can easily see how difficult it must be to give
+their exact limit. In some neighbourhoods it was no easy task to decide
+whether we were on land or ice.
+
+In summer time the low-lying lands, when not covered with snow, are
+mostly changed into a muddy swamp. The whole island, with the exception
+of the northern part between Cape Copeland and Cape Börgen, where it
+consists of fine syenite, is of volcanic origin. The party to which
+I belonged consisted of three, Dr. Börgen, the sailor Klentzer, and
+myself. Our task was to explore the ground, if possible, completely,
+and also with regard to the possibility of measuring a base in such a
+position as to start from, and, if necessary, triangulate along the
+whole coast. We soon ascertained, however, that it was not possible
+here to get a good triangle for the purpose of measuring.
+
+The 18th of August was at first foggy, but it afterwards cleared, and
+we raised a row of stone heaps on the best spots of ground we could
+find. One of these spots, in the north of the peninsula, is a small
+basaltic dome, and although only 250 Rhenish feet high, gave us a fine
+distant view into the interior of Shannon.
+
+On the 19th we had fog for breakfast again, but in the afternoon we
+continued our explorations in a north-easterly direction. Close to
+the coast we were astonished at the sight of a fine group of basaltic
+columns; they were the first we had seen of so regular and distinct a
+form. The largest must have been quite twenty feet high.
+
+From here we marched for an hour and a quarter over to East Shannon.
+The land resembled that by Cape Philip Broke, but the high levels were
+more extensive, and covered with several low, muddy spots. As we were
+taking our measurements we saw a musk-ox, which we shot; we took some
+of the flesh, and reached the tent by half-past three.
+
+The 20th of August found us active on the east coast, in the
+neighbourhood of the basaltic columns.
+
+For a long time we had seen a large bear in the distance, investigating
+the row of hummocks, which showed the edge of the land-ice, but it did
+not seem advisable to follow him. On our return road we saw some snow
+of a pale reddish colour; it seemed to be formed of a mixture of red
+clay or sandstone dust.[45]
+
+On the 21st, as we were exploring more to the south and east, we
+came upon a small, deep ravine; it ran close down to the shore, and
+seemed to be a collecting place for the drift-wood. One tree, which
+was certainly broken in many places, was at least forty feet long.
+Under the drift-wood lay the skull of a fine bear, and by the side a
+jaw-bone, which now was likely to grace some European museum. In the
+evening we returned on board, as the next day was Sunday. It was not,
+however, to be a day of rest, as Captain Koldewey had decided upon
+sailing to Cape Desbrowe, from this height to study the state of the
+ice, and look out for the Hansa. We, as well as Lieutenant Payer,
+Sengstacke, and two sailors, were therefore again set on shore and
+left to our fate. The night before, Klentzer, who had slept alone in
+the tent, had suffered from the intrusion of a fox; it had fled in to
+him, and not until after several vain attempts to kill his guest with a
+bayonet did the creature seek safety in flight.
+
+In the afternoon we took a pleasant walk along the west coast, and
+discovered a number of “Tent-rings,” or circles, and other traces of
+inhabitants long since disappeared.
+
+On the 23rd of August a cold wind blew, with wet fog, covering
+everything with rime. The fox visited us again, and again escaped from
+our attempt at murder. We passed our time in fetching drift-wood from
+the east coast, whilst Payer conveyed a basaltic column from the north
+end of the peninsula to our anchor-ground.
+
+Upon continuing our work on the south end of the peninsula on the 24th,
+we found everywhere traces of very old Esquimaux huts and graves. The
+huts were not the usual underground winter-dwellings, but were built of
+stones on the flat earth, a block of rock being taken as the back wall.
+The largest of these peculiar dwellings was ten feet in diameter and
+six feet in height.
+
+In the night Payer, Sengstacke, and two sailors went to south-west
+Shannon (Tellplatte), and the next morning nothing was to be seen
+either of them or the Germania. Now we know that at this time the Hansa
+lay at no great distance in the ice, and that a part of her gallant
+crew had advanced in the boat to within a short distance of Cape
+Desbrowe.
+
+Close by the west point of Cape Philip Broke lay a strange object on
+the land-ice. The light grey and whitish colour at first made us think
+that it was a bear, but afterwards we found it to be an old walrus; it
+lay close to a hole in the ice. We approached it stealthily, and the
+first shot took effect. It was about ten feet long and nine feet in
+circumference near the fore-fins. We were glad of this capture, as in
+case the voyage should be hindered, we were at least supplied with
+meat and fuel for some weeks.
+
+We now collected our apparatus and brought them down to the Cape,
+together with the tent. At nine p.m. we had the pleasure of seeing
+the little Germania sailing slowly towards us, though still at some
+considerable distance. At midnight it was pretty dark, but we could
+see to read in the tent. At one a.m. I went out; the ship was nearer,
+and a column of smoke showed that she was under steam. I went far out
+on to the ice to speak privately to the captain, but I might have
+saved myself the trouble, for those on shore heard every word of the
+conversation, the air was so still and clear. The ship was worked
+chiefly at low pressure on account of the young ice, although it was
+not more than one-half to three-quarters of an inch thick; but with
+each motion of the ship the ice was pushed layer upon layer, until at
+last she was brought to a stand-still, and only by backing and running
+ahead did they at length reach the anchor-ground. The rest of the day
+was passed in measuring and skinning the walrus. Near the Esquimaux
+huts we saw a block of quartz, two feet and a half in diameter, the
+surface of which was wonderfully worn and polished. Had it been used as
+a sharpening stone, or for what other purpose?
+
+On this day our attention was first drawn to the peculiar unearthly
+moaning and groaning of the ice-floes as they were forced against the
+land by the tide, and as I was coming from the ship over the ice to
+land unarmed, I cannot deny that a feeling of terror seized me, and I
+looked round to see the unknown animal from whence the sound proceeded.
+I afterwards discovered the true cause, however.
+
+On the 27th Payer and his party returned full of the wonders of the
+Tellplatte; their tour had been most satisfactory.
+
+We now held a consultation, and all agreed that for the moment there
+was no prospect of getting further northward; so at four p.m. we
+steamed for Klein-Pendulum, which we reached at half-past eleven p.m.
+
+Since the 12th of August the sun had again risen and set for us, and at
+midnight it was already twilight, so that for the first time for two
+months we could see the bright stars, and at midnight on deck we could
+see to read the smallest print.
+
+These uniform and uneventful days on Shannon Island were useful to us,
+in so far that they showed us the capabilities as well as deficiencies
+in our tents, coverings, cooking apparatus, and so on.
+
+So much for Dr. Copeland and his party. We will now give some account
+of Lieutenant Payer’s first sledge journey to the Tellplatte.
+
+On the 16th of August, on the plateau north of Cape Philip Broke, Payer
+had measured a base 1600 fathoms long, and in order to conclude this
+work he on the 25th started on a small sledge journey, accompanied
+by Sengstacke, Ellinger, and Iversen, to the south-west of Shannon,
+called the Tellplatte. They pulled a small sledge, without either tent
+or sleeping-sack, across the monotonous snow-fields of Freeden Bay. A
+layer of fog hung over it only a few fathoms high, disguising the real
+distance from the travellers. Suddenly icebergs emerged like ghosts
+from the surrounding fog, apparently far off, yet close at hand; then
+a yellowish spot began to move, and a bear stood a few steps from
+the sledgedrawers. To halt and fire was the work of a moment, and,
+after a vain attempt to rise again, the bear died at the feet of the
+travellers. Gradually the sun broke through the fog, and the terraces
+of the Tellplatte looked like a violet silhouette.
+
+The further they advanced the more impractible the ice became, being
+perforated by numerous springs. With some trouble they at length
+reached the lowlands to the west of the bay; here the sledge remained
+behind as the land was perfectly free from snow. And after dividing the
+baggage the wanderers continued their ascent, when after fifteen hours’
+march they reached the highest point of the Tellplatte (670 ft. above
+the sea).
+
+“Here on the broad mountain top were masses of rubbish of gneiss
+formation resembling those on Pendulum Island. We were also astonished
+by the sight of a large flat promontory (south of Haystack), which is
+not distinctly marked on Clavering’s charts. The view of the front
+coast of Greenland was full of majestic beauty.”
+
+Brown and blue lines of mountains with their sharp pinnacles rose in
+the warmth of the midnight sun on the other side of a snow desert some
+miles broad, long shadows lying on those parts turned from the sun.
+
+Whilst for six hours Payer was busy with measure and theodolite, his
+companions had discovered a herd of musk-oxen and killed two of them.
+Heavily laden they returned to the sledge at midnight. The sun had
+gone down some hours. The mountain country had taken those fantastic
+hues of deep red and violet, even to the coldest, palest toning of the
+snow; in the zenith shone a faint whitish blue; to the south a lively
+greyish blue; and the newly-risen copper-coloured moon, distorted
+by refraction, shone in every little mirrored surface of the young
+ice. The temperature of the snow had fallen to 20° Fahr., so that
+the travellers in their thin shoes were on the point of freezing. A
+drowsiness crept over them, Cape Philip Broke seemed unattainable;
+at last they reached the place where the dead bear lay, and, after
+thirty-three hours’ absence, Cape Philip Broke (seven German miles). On
+the same day (26th August), the Germania returned from Pendulum Island,
+but only to start again on the 27th for the same place with the whole
+community.
+
+Dr. Börgen gives the following description of the excursion to
+Klein-Pendulum, from the 27th to the 31st of August.
+
+Whilst Lieut. Payer surveyed the land and roamed through the island, we
+were chained to the shore by astronomical and magnetic observations.
+But we did not altogether miss interesting things; we were much amused
+by the confidence of the sand-pipers, with their melancholy “tut-tut”
+coming close to us. The ducks, however, were more shy, who with their
+young ones were evidently on an excursion (as they do not nest on
+Pendulum).
+
+Near the place where we had pitched our tent we found some winter huts,
+the digging up of which brought much to light that was useful for our
+collection.
+
+Even Dr. Pansch, whose wound was beginning to heal, would not remain
+inactive, and spent the sunny day in looking for botanical specimens.
+
+The wind was rough, and, though the Stufenberg protected us, on the
+whole, from the north wind, it sometimes rushed down the steep sides
+and slopes like a whirlwind, against which our little tent could make
+no resistance. We were, therefore, obliged to lay it down, to prevent
+its being torn in pieces; and Pansch, who had to be careful of catching
+cold in his wound, and had lain down to rest, was completely wound up
+in the violently-blowing canvas, much to our amusement and his own
+discomfiture.
+
+At last, on the 31st of August, when our work was finished, we started
+to view the island, making an excursion to ascertain the barometrical
+height of some of the tops. The Stufenberg was our first destination;
+on the top we found a large plateau, narrowing towards the north, and
+also sinking to rise on the other side into a similar though smaller
+plateau, separated from the Stufenberg by a great valley. From this
+second high plateau run several small ridges, which again rise to small
+low summits, leaving valleys between, more or less broad in extent.
+From here we went through the above-mentioned valley, and then over
+the south-easterly declivity of the Stufenberg plateau to the south
+shore, which we reached at two o’clock. The height of the Stufenberg
+was 1512 feet, and that of the highest mountain, 1985 feet. Such was
+the scientific knowledge acquired on this tour. But the kitchen, too,
+profited by this excursion, for we brought home four hares and some
+ducks!
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+
+         FURTHER COASTING VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA. 17TH AUGUST
+                     TO 13TH SEPTEMBER, 1869.[46]
+
+   The Germania anchored on the south side of the island of
+   Klein-Pendulum.--Still open water to the south.--Return
+   to Shannon Island.--Arrival near Cape Philip Broke.--The
+   Germania anchors near the Stufenberg.--Journey to
+   Sabine Island.--Fruitless attempt to cruise towards the
+   north.--Storm.--The Germania steers southwards.--Ascent of
+   3000 feet up the Sattelberg by First Lieutenant Payer, Dr.
+   Copeland, and P. Ellinger.--Glimpse into the interior of the
+   Fjord from the top of the Sattelberg.--Tracks of Lemmings
+   on the top.--Remains of an Esquimaux summer hut.--Return to
+   winter-quarters under Sabine Island.--Results obtained.
+
+
+We now resume our narrative on board the Germania, August 17. The
+following day a fresh southerly breeze was blowing, raising the sea
+and bringing up much ice, compelling us to veer away the cable, and
+keep everything in readiness for a move in case of need. The ice,
+which, on account of the roughness of the sea, was constantly breaking
+away from the pack, kept coming up from the west. At times we were so
+completely surrounded by it, that we had to hoist up the boats, and
+were so prevented from landing. The sky, during this southerly wind,
+was obscured by continual fogs--the average temperature being not many
+degrees above freezing point.
+
+On the evening of the 19th of August the wind dropped, the ice opened
+again, and we were soon lying in open water, and able to keep up
+communication with the shore.
+
+We made observations on the current the next day, and sent men on shore
+to hunt for food; they returned with some musk-oxen which they had
+killed. Payer also came on board.
+
+August 21. Weather warm and foggy. Snowfall in the afternoon with
+a light wind from the north-east, in consequence of which we were
+prevented from continuing our labours on shore. Meanwhile we made
+preparations for further excursions on the island, and for a stay of
+some days for our scientific staff, as our captain intended to sail
+westward in order to ascertain the condition of the land-ice, and gain
+a general view of the ice from the high mountains on Klein-Pendulum.
+There was no prospect as yet of getting further north from the eastward
+of Shannon. The passage had, in fact, become narrowed; and from the
+east the pack had begun to settle nearer in to shore.
+
+After landing the scientific staff with the necessary crew, and a boat
+in case of necessity, at noon on the 22nd, with a light north wind,
+we steered westward along the solid land-ice. Somewhat broken in the
+edges, the ice here slightly changed its aspect and showed signs of
+breaking-up. On the eastern side of Klein-Pendulum the ice remained
+solidly firm, and it was only on the southern side that we found open
+water for anchorage.
+
+Next day a fresh breeze sprang up from the north, with a cloudy sky.
+The weather being in other respects fair, the captain ascended a
+mountain, 1990 feet high, in order to survey the ice; but so thick a
+fog prevailed that he was compelled to return on board without having
+accomplished his object. The next day the sky cleared, although a fresh
+breeze still blew from the north, and it became possible to obtain
+a clear view from the top of the mountain, which, however, was not
+encouraging for further progress northwards. The line of the land-ice
+was still almost the same, and what lay between Shannon Island and the
+mainland was quite solid. We could see Haystack and the high promontory
+to the west quite distinctly, but entirely surrounded with solid ice.
+North and west of Shannon Island immense fields were visible, mostly
+close packed; and even the open space between it and the mainland,
+which a week ago was quite clear, was now filled with large fields.
+Only in the south-east, and along the coast towards the south, was
+open water still to be descried. Eastwards, Gael Hamkes Bay appeared
+to be open, but close round Cape James and the adjacent island the ice
+was again thick. There was, consequently, little hope this year of
+penetrating further north. Besides, Captain Koldewey hardly expected
+that it would be possible for the Hansa to reach the coast, as the pack
+had apparently again become closer, and the open water under the coast
+had become narrower.
+
+In the afternoon the weather cleared, enabling us to make correct
+surveys and soundings of the coast-line. The soundings gave us a
+fine and safe anchorage under the lofty mountain, afterwards named
+Stufenberg. The bottom shelved gradually, and it became possible to
+anchor in a soft clay in four fathoms close under the mountain. The
+night was calm, and during it a quantity of new ice formed round us;
+which, however, broke up under the influence of a stiff southerly
+breeze. We availed ourselves of this breeze to return to Shannon
+Island, as we feared being cut off it by the approaching pack. About
+half-past four p.m. we sailed round the northern cape of the island,
+steering along the land-ice, as we could not take the direct route to
+Cape Philip Broke on account of the large fields. Towards six p.m. we
+came upon new ice, which during the late calm had formed between the
+fields. This we broke through easily at first, but presently stood
+still, owing to the breeze dying out. We broke through this ice, and
+got out hawsers to tow the ship through, as at a mile to the N.W. open
+water was in sight. The fields, however, united, and so piled up the
+ice that it became impossible to advance. We had no resource left,
+therefore, but to get up steam, which enabled us to break through. At
+times it was so thick that we had to charge it repeatedly with full
+steam, in order to force a passage. At length, at twelve (midnight),
+we anchored under Cape Philip Broke. The night was calm, and the sky
+cloudless. The temperature fell to 22° Fahr., and new ice rapidly
+formed. Dr. Copeland, who had observed our progress from land, informed
+us that Payer was still on the southern hill some miles away from
+anchorage. Their tents, however, had been pitched quite close to us.
+
+The captain requested Dr. Copeland to hoist a flag as a signal for
+Lieut. Payer to return on board immediately. The anchorage by Cape
+Philip Broke appeared to be no longer tenable, as large fields
+continued drifting towards us from the east, filling up the bay between
+Shannon and Pendulum islands. According to our astronomers, who had
+been constantly watching the ice from the eastern hill, there remained
+only one open channel to the east of Shannon. As far as they could
+judge, the ice to the north had not begun to move yet. Under these
+circumstances, our chances of further explorations to the north this
+autumn became fainter and fainter.
+
+On the return of Lieutenant Payer and his men on the morning of the
+29th, the captain summoned a council of the scientific staff and
+officers, to obtain their opinions as to the feasibility of penetrating
+further. Taking into consideration all circumstances, the utter
+improbability of our being able to advance further north, the danger
+of our present anchorage, and the non-arrival of the Hansa, which we
+had now given up altogether, it was unanimously resolved, as being most
+in accordance with the object of the Expedition; to return to the safe
+anchorage on the south side of Klein-Pendulum, there to complete the
+survey of the surrounding country; and, if possible, to undertake a
+sledge-expedition to the mainland.
+
+We had on that island the additional advantage of the mountain, whence
+we were enabled to observe the movements of the ice, and at once avail
+ourselves of any favourable opportunity. We still hoped that the
+autumnal storms would bring about a general breaking-up.
+
+August 27, at four p.m., we raised anchor and steered southwards. The
+sea was now everywhere frozen over, and mostly covered with inch-ice,
+through which we could only force a passage with full steam power up.
+We found open water only near Bass Rock, and could sail freely and
+quickly round the island. We anchored at eleven p.m. under Stufenberg,
+in four fathoms.
+
+On the following days the weather was fine and clear, with light north
+and west winds, so that the labours of the astronomers in determining
+our locality, as well as observations regarding the magnetic influences
+and current, together with Lieutenant Payer’s work, made good and rapid
+progress. Dr. Pansch, whose arm was now almost well, had resumed his
+active labours in the cause of science, and examined the remains of
+the Esquimaux huts which were discovered under the Stufenberg, and
+formed botanical collections. The island, partly barren, and clothed
+with scanty vegetation, was explored in all directions. Whenever time
+allowed we went out shooting, but, with the exception of a few Arctic
+hares, brought back no game. The position of the ice was constantly
+watched from the mountains, and on the 13th of August Payer reported
+that, upon the whole, its position had not altered; also that the young
+ice between Shannon and Pendulum Islands had not disappeared; and that
+that lying to the north-east of Shannon was quite firm.
+
+Accordingly, when the work on Klein-Pendulum was finished, we sailed on
+the 1st of September to the small harbour on the south side of Sabine
+Island, in order to start on a lengthy excursion to the mainland. The
+nights were now growing darker and darker, the formation of the young
+ice proceeded rapidly, so much so that nothing but a strong wind could
+break it. The weather, which during the whole of our stay on the coast
+had been particularly tranquil and fine, began now to be unsettled and
+stormy. On the night of the 2nd of September the first violent storm
+burst from the N.N.W., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. The wind
+came down in gusts from the mountains, and we had to let go our second
+anchor and pay out much cable, which kept us secure. As on this coast
+all violent winds blow from the north, anchorage is very insecure on
+the north side, particularly in spring-time, when, on account of the
+stronger motion of the ice, it is extremely dangerous.
+
+At last, on the morning of the 7th, the air cleared and a fresh wind
+blew from the north. From the deck we could see the heavy pack-ice
+drifting rapidly past our harbour southwards; the young ice, too, was
+loosened and parted from the land, so that we were once more in open
+water. Looking from the mountain, the pack-ice in the east formed a
+complete block; only about our island and to the south of the island of
+Shannon was there open water. On the eastern side from Klein-Pendulum,
+too, a large field had been pushed forward and pressed close to the
+land, so that even the road to Shannon was no longer open. In the
+night another heavy storm burst, which obliged us to let go the
+second anchor. The weather-side of the ship, and the bow, even under
+the bowsprit, were covered over with a thick coating of ice from the
+washing of the water. At midnight, under a clear sky, a calm of several
+hours’ duration fell suddenly; but in the morning the wind again blew
+from the north, sometimes assuming the force of a storm, as we could
+see from the quick motion of the heavy pieces of ice. We hoped that
+this continuous north wind would sweep a clear path for us, and thus
+be favourable to a last attempt at gaining the north. Accordingly, at
+nine a.m., although it was still blowing freshly, we set sail, tacking
+northwards towards Klein-Pendulum. However, we were not able to go far,
+for we were met by a violent downfall of snow; the wind once more rose
+to a storm, and we were again compelled to anchor under the protection
+of Klein-Pendulum. In the afternoon another heavy storm broke with
+hurricane gusts from the mountains, the air being thick with snow; so
+that we had to ride by both anchors, and were unable to do any sort of
+work in the open air.
+
+The next morning (the 10th of September), as the wind was still blowing
+hard, Captain Koldewey climbed the highest summit of the island, in
+order to obtain a good look-out over the ice. The air was clear; not
+a bit of fog, so that on all sides we had a wide prospect, which,
+unfortunately, showed us that any advance with the ship at this time
+of the year was impossible. The ice between Shannon and the mainland,
+and further along the coast towards the north, lay unchangeably solid,
+exactly the same as on our arrival; and the land-ice in the creek
+between Shannon and Pendulum islands was only slightly broken. The
+pack-ice to the east was completely closed up, having large fields
+which were pressed close to the land under Klein-Pendulum, shutting
+up the access to the Shannon, under which island, however, there was
+an open channel. To the east of Shannon Island a small strip of water
+showed itself now and then, but, most probably, the large fields were
+revolving in the immediate neighbourhood of the land-ice, preventing
+any continued sailing, even had we been mad enough to venture between
+these grinding masses. Along the coast to the south appeared a small
+strip of open water, and the captain decided upon availing himself of
+the north wind for exploring this in the interests of the undertaking.
+On the 10th of September we therefore weighed anchor at one p.m., and
+steered southwards with a moderate north breeze. A field lay between
+Walrus and Sabine Island; but close under the latter, we found in four
+fathoms of water a small passage to the south. We could no longer sail
+round Walrus Island, which lay to the east.
+
+At six p.m. we found ourselves over against a creek, at the egress of a
+valley, through which ran a stream from the glaciers, which we called
+“Königin-Augusta Thal.”[47] As this creek was very shallow, we called
+it “Flache Bay.” We dropped anchor here, as southwards so much ice was
+pushed close to the coast that it was impossible to sail round Cape
+Borlase Warren. The glacier stream had accumulated such an amount of
+rubbish, that even at the mouth with a boat one could not land, and at
+low water the greater part of the bay was dry. Only under the steep
+mountains to the south could we land at all.
+
+The night was fine and starlight, the temperature 29.5° Fahr. The
+astronomers availed themselves of this opportunity to determine the
+exact Polar latitude with the sextant, which gave the lat. at 74° 24′
+3″. The next morning First Lieutenant Payer and Dr. Copeland climbed
+the “Sattelberg,” more than 3700 feet high, one of the loftiest peaks
+of this peninsula. Payer reported the following:--
+
+“Our intention of inspecting the interior of ‘Gael Hamkes Bay,’ and
+the branches of the Fjord to westward, had led us towards Flache Bay.
+From thence a two-hours’ boat journey to Cape Borlase Warren convinced
+us that it was impossible to penetrate into the interior by means of
+the ship, on account of the numerous icebergs and floes which were
+stranded at the entrance. There remained, therefore, but one means to
+gain our end--the climbing of a high overlooking mountain. The only one
+we could see fit for this purpose was the Sattelberg, 3700 feet high,
+which formed the highest point to the north of Gael Hamkes Bay, and was
+easily reached from our anchorage by going through ‘Königin-Augusta
+Thal.’
+
+“Thus on the 11th of September, at eight a.m., Payer and Ellinger left
+the ship, provided with theodolite and barometer, and wandered up the
+dreary, gently-rising valley. Here Dr. Copeland joined them. A tiring,
+monotonous road led us up and down the mountains and slopes covered
+with scanty vegetation, through rough water-rifts, and, lastly, over
+a small, steep glacier on to the Dolerite-crest of the Sattelberg. A
+violent north wind made the moderate cold of 14° Fahr. particularly
+painful to the travellers during their stay on the summit, especially
+whilst carrying on their work.
+
+“The view westward was unimpeded, and afforded a most interesting
+glimpse of the interior of the Greenland Fjord, the exploration of
+which, by means of extensive sledge-journeys (for which the time of
+year was most favourable), seemed desirable. The opposite view, too, of
+a broad, smooth, icy sea losing itself in the distance, and the wild,
+imposing, rocky land to the west and north was, in a purely landscape
+point of view, most beautiful.
+
+“And where was the so-called coast water? It was a small channel close
+to the south of Pendulum Island.
+
+  [Illustration: London. Sampson Low. Marston, Low & Searle.
+  188 Fleet Street.
+
+  QUEEN AUGUSTA VALLEY.]
+
+“Here we observed, as upon all mountains previously, and upon others
+since, the freedom from snow even on the high-lying lands, and
+the fact that the snow-fields seemed exclusively to form a distant
+background to the glaciers; drifts, and the more or less accidental
+gatherings in clefts, and so forth, of course excepted.
+
+“We left the top after an hour’s observation, and made some coffee on
+our way down in a rift in the glacier, returning to the ship by a most
+glorious aurora, after four hours and a half absence.”
+
+So far First Lieutenant Payer’s account. At the same time a
+boat-journey along the coast towards the south was carried out and the
+coast surveyed. It is here particularly free from shallows, and the
+depth so regular that the lead was a sure guide for the approach of
+the ship to land. The mountains on the shore are from 450 to 550 feet
+high, and mostly rise rather abruptly. On a tongue of land between
+Flache Bay and Cape Borlase Warren we found the remains of some
+Esquimaux huts, and near them some graves, which we inspected, and
+found all sorts of curious vessels. The graves were old and decayed,
+and probably no living Esquimaux, had been on the spot for a very
+long time, Gael Hamkes Bay was so filled with ice, and the blocks and
+floes so heaped up at the cape, that even with the boat we could not
+get round, and therefore could not reach Clavering Island. It was
+often necessary to drag the boat for some nautical miles over the
+ice-blocks--a gigantic Work, bearing no proportion to the small results
+to be expected. We therefore contented ourselves with inspecting the
+immediate neighbourhood more closely, especially the graves. Vegetation
+was more plentiful than on Pendulum Island; even some grass plats were
+to be found. We also saw numerous traces of the reindeer in a valley
+running westward from the cape, and gradually rising to the mountain
+chain, though we only saw one single living specimen, which, although
+eagerly hunted, escaped our shots. We returned late in the evening to
+the Germania.
+
+The report regarding the ice of First Lieutenant Payer, who returned
+with Dr. Copeland about eleven p.m., was as unfavourable as the
+description of the above excursion. The pack-ice, as far as one could
+see to the eastward, was completely blocked. Northwards from the
+Shannon nothing but ice to be seen. It was clear to all that the time
+for ship cruising was over, and that we must think of placing our
+vessel in some secure winter harbour before we were cut off from her,
+and thus be exposed to certain destruction. The only fit harbour, as
+already mentioned, was under Sabine Island, the one in which we had
+anchored for the first time on the 5th of August. Although the captain
+would willingly have wintered more northwards, about Shannon Island,
+in order to hold a more advanced position, no more secure position
+offered itself here; and upon the security of the ship, particularly
+as the Hansa had failed in reaching the coast, hung the whole success
+of the expedition. It may here be mentioned that in Arctic regions,
+when wintering upon a coast, which is not always free from ice even in
+summer, if circumstances, or, above all, choice permit, the harbour
+should be chosen opening to the south, having land to the north; also
+a creek into which falls a glacier stream, as such a harbour is, in
+the course of the summer, most likely to become free from ice. In any
+case it must be protected from the heavy pack-ice. The small bay on
+the south-east side of Sabine Island combined all these advantages in
+a high degree, but, on account of its little depth, is only safe for
+ships drawing less than ten feet of water, and which can lie inside the
+straight line which unites the two land points in the east and west.
+
+As our ship could effect nothing further in a southerly direction, and
+our anchorage was now insecure from the pressure of the ice and the
+violent north wind, we steamed out at half-past ten a.m. on the 13th
+of September, after having made another geological excursion to Sabine
+Island, to the harbour which, for ten months, was to be our home.
+
+In looking back upon the summer’s enterprise and summing up the
+results, we had cause, in spite of all failures and disappointed hopes,
+to be thankful for what we had attained. If we had not succeeded in
+advancing northwards, and our separation from the Hansa, and her
+continued non-appearance, limited our investigations in a great
+measure, the fact remained (the condition _sine quâ non_ of the
+whole undertaking) that we had reached the coast with the Germania
+quite safely, and had already made some important discoveries, which,
+the winter happily over, might result in a rich store of knowledge,
+however unfavourable the condition of the ice might be. We found
+ourselves in a field (which, scientifically, was almost unknown), on a
+coast respecting which the most unreliable and contradictory reports
+obtained, and nearly all our discoveries and observations seemed new,
+thus affording important contributions to the knowledge of the Arctic
+region. Events proved that Captain Koldewey was right in choosing the
+coast of East Greenland for the basis of Arctic exploration, instead
+of Dr. Petermann’s suggestion of advancing between Nova-Zembla and
+Spitzbergen to the North Pole. Captain Koldewey was convinced, and is
+now more so than ever, that in that quarter any considerable advance
+by ship to the north would be as impossible as from the north of
+Spitzbergen. “Under the most favourable circumstances,” so says Captain
+Koldewey, “we could only make some explorations in Nova-Zembla, and
+take some hydrographical observations which, however unimportant they
+might be, would bear no proportion to the cost of the undertaking;
+whilst on the coast of East Greenland, if even the conjecture of
+open coast water to the north should not prove true, we might, after
+breaking through the icy belt, make some important and satisfactory
+discoveries.”
+
+That the Hansa had not been able to reach the coast was unfortunate,
+as it weakened our community; but from that circumstance we found
+ourselves deprived of a larger supply of coal so necessary for our
+boilers; and not knowing how much fuel we might want during the winter,
+we were obliged to use the utmost economy, and only employ steam power
+on urgent occasions. Had the Hansa been with us, nothing would have
+prevented us, after the first failure, in the attempt to reach the
+north in the middle of August, from steaming at once southward with
+the Germania. Our sister ship could have remained at Shannon Island.
+Eight days would have sufficed us to explore the whole land of Gael
+Hamkes Bay, which at this time was free from ice, and then return to
+the north; whilst, in the meantime, the Hansa would have begun and
+finished the exploration of Shannon Island. The coming spring proved
+still more what a pity it was that the Hansa did not reach the coast.
+We were really too feeble, even with our greatest exertions, to master
+the amount of work. Captain Koldewey is convinced that we might have
+advanced two degrees further north had he had sufficient men. It is,
+therefore, unjust to draw the conclusion (as has been done in many
+parts by inland people) from the events which have taken place, that
+taking the Hansa as a sister ship was a mistake. To maintain that,
+because, the Hansa was lost in the ice, she was therefore superfluous,
+is scarcely a logical conclusion.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER V.
+
+         JOURNEY BY SLEDGE TO THE FLIGELY FJORD. DISCOVERY OF
+               COAL LAYERS ON KUHN ISLAND. 14TH TO 21ST
+                           SEPT., 1869.[48]
+
+   Our outfittings.--Departure on 14th September.--First night
+   under tents.--Passage of Clavering Straits in sledges.--Cape
+   Hamburg.--A Polar bear shot.--The Fligely Fjord.--Ascent of a
+   mountain-peak 4050 feet high.--The prospect therefrom.--The
+   Fligely Fjord connected with Ardencaple Bay.--Scientific
+   labours of Lieutenant Payer.--Return to the tent.--An Arctic
+   night.--Back to the ship.--Discovery of coal strata on Kuhn
+   Island by Lieutenant Payer.--Arrival at the ship on 21st
+   September.
+
+
+The temperature was now settled at one degree below freezing point,
+and although in the neighbourhood of Pendulum Island the young ice
+was destroyed by the wind as soon as formed, the ground on land was
+frozen hard, and the watery pools on the firm land-ice were already
+covered with a coating of ice, so thick as to be able to bear the
+weight of sledges and men. Now was the fittest time for our proposed
+sledge-journey to the west; and on the same day, the 13th, all
+necessary preparations were made. It was the first of any importance
+that we had undertaken, and though, from works on the Arctic regions,
+we understood something of the ways and means of carrying it out,
+none of us had any practical experience, so that our arrangements
+eventually proved to be somewhat deficient. As, on our departure from
+home, the prevailing idea was that the greatest and most substantial
+discoveries must be made with the ship, our instructions spoke only of
+probable glacier excursions to the interior of the country, and not of
+extensive sledge journeys along the coast and the banks of the Fjord.
+At the outfitting in Bremen there was, therefore, no provision made for
+these, and our sledge apparatus (tents, coverings, and so on) was not
+quite what it ought to have been.
+
+  [Illustration: TENT FOR SLEDGE-JOURNEYING.]
+
+During the summer we had learnt from experience that the round tent
+with a pole in the centre, which we had brought from Bremen, was not
+practically useful; it was, therefore, changed into a four-cornered
+one, and provided with a roof. At each corner a pole was placed,
+perpendicularly, and fastened by ropes, held and propped up with
+stones. In stretching the roof also ropes had to be made fast to the
+ground. This tent answered our purpose on the whole, and proved
+serviceable. The supports were, however, weak and unsatisfactory, and
+constantly requiring alteration and strengthening to enable it to
+bear up against the storms. This took place in the beginning of the
+winter. Our further apparatus consisted of necessary woollen coverings
+(fur we had not yet taken to), provisions for eight days, and of
+instruments--theodolite, barometer, and thermometer.
+
+We began our journey on the afternoon of the 14th of September, in
+fine quiet weather, and under a cloudless sky. The night previous,
+in a temperature of 23° Fahr., a thin ice-crust had formed from our
+harbour over the whole of Clavering Straits to the old land-ice, the
+extent of which was two nautical miles from the south-west cape of the
+island, and therefore four nautical miles from our harbour, through
+which we had to force our way with much trouble, with the boats laden
+with the sledges and baggage on to the old ice. After three hours’ work
+we reached it, and now the sledge journey may be said to have begun.
+The sledges, which carried about six cwt., were drawn by six men, the
+Captain, First Lieutenant Payer, Tramnitz, Kranschner, Klentzer, and
+Ellinger, travelling with comparative ease over the almost snowless
+ice; but a short distance past the south-west cape of the island, the
+road became rough and uneven from the half-melted and again frozen
+snow-drifts, so that it required all our strength to get along.
+In order not to tire the men too much on the first day, we halted
+about eight p.m. on a tongue of land running from the Kronenberg of
+Sabine Island, and raised our tent. Not being yet practised in such
+travelling, and in all the management of our hands, so necessary in
+raising tents and cooking food, we were an hour and a half before we
+could roll ourselves in our blankets and go to rest. The narrow and
+cramped position in which we lay in the small tent (nine feet long and
+six feet broad) on the hard frozen ground, prevented us from enjoying
+a good night’s rest, although we were quite warm enough; and we had
+plenty of time in which to consider how far superior a soft bed was.
+Although bears were numerous round about us, and we met some almost
+every day, we had not as yet set any watch during the night, and
+had only taken a loaded gun and revolver into the tent with us as a
+precaution. The time for rest on a sledge-journey, if one wishes to
+press forward, is necessarily of the shortest, and setting watch would,
+from the unavoidable loss of rest, be very prejudicial, or cause us to
+lose many hours of very precious time. One must also consider the wary
+nature of bears, and that they would always have to destroy the tent
+before getting at us. But, indeed, in all our sledge-journeys during
+sleeping time we were spared the visits of such combative companions.
+Either the bears preferred making no further acquaintance with us, or
+they came at a time when we could best greet them with a shot.
+
+The next morning, the 15th, we started at a quarter to six, after a
+good breakfast, taking a north-westerly direction obliquely across
+Clavering Straits, in order to reach the mainland; the temperature
+was 20.5° Fahr., the weather fine, the wind quiet, and we brought the
+sledge along over the hard snow with comparative ease. We reached
+Cape Berlin after a six hours’ journey. After a mid-day rest we
+pulled on through snow deserts of ever-increasing depth towards the
+mainland. This surrounded a broad bay stretching to the south, and was
+intersected by a Fjord of, as yet, undecided extent to the west of our
+road. The exploration of this Fjord was our aim.
+
+We thought from the imposing walls of gneiss at its point of debouche
+(Cape Hamburg) that we should be able to reach it in a few hours, far
+under-rating the actual distance, which is often the case in Arctic
+regions. In the bright clear air, the land looked so near that we
+fancied we could see every crack in the rocks, and even every stone,
+distinctly enough to grasp it with the hand; but the further we walked,
+the further the land seemed to recede, and as the journey in the not
+quite frozen snow was trying enough without this, there was a great
+amount of ill-humour over the constant disappointment. But everything
+has an end, and at last it was real land, and a real mountain-chain
+which lay before us. In Arctic regions one is so subject to illusions,
+that you cannot swear to having land before you, until your feet are
+actually upon it. This happened with us in the evening at dusk, and we
+pitched our tent on a smooth spot. This second night’s rest was better
+than the first, and after such a trying day’s work we slept the sleep
+of the just.
+
+On the 16th of September, as we were at breakfast, a white fox rushed
+almost into the midst of us, wishing to share it, but he paid for his
+boldness with his life.
+
+We also saw a bear in the distance; he did not venture near, however,
+but shuffled, first, comfortably along to our encampment, which we had
+long since left. A saucepan cover, which we afterwards missed, served
+him as a ball; and as Bruin found nothing to eat, he followed on our
+track, and, as he drew nearer, had to pay for his murderous intentions
+by a well-aimed shot from Mr. Tramnitz. We took one of his hams with
+us as an addition to our stock of provisions; the beautiful skin, and
+the remainder of the flesh we left for the ravens and the foxes. At
+the mouth of the Fjord, where Cape Hamburg bends round to the west, we
+halted for our mid-day meal, as well as for the purpose of making some
+necessary measurements.
+
+In the meantime we had discovered, to our great surprise, that the
+Fligely Fjord was covered with an uninterrupted coating of ice. Sorry
+we were that we had brought no skates, by which our journey would
+have been much hastened. We pushed ourselves along the ice with the
+alpenstocks; the sledge followed easily, almost by the influence of the
+wind. The ice in the Fjord[49], evidently only formed in September, was
+at first from three to four inches thick, then three-quarters of an
+inch, so that our steps were accompanied by an uninterrupted cracking.
+Large cracks formed, and we kept near the land, so that in case of
+falling in we might find a bottom.
+
+With one thrust of the iron point of the alpenstock, we broke the icy
+covering, and drank eagerly of the up-springing water. This, being
+immediately under the ice, was but little salt, and quite drinkable.
+
+The shore of the Fjord was surrounded by beautiful mountain-chains--to
+the north gneiss--and granite cliffs, at the foot of which were slopes
+covered with soft grassy vegetation; to the south rose ice-crowned
+rocks, the highest of which (we will call it Domberg) was certainly
+more than 3900 feet high. Reindeer came from all sides of the strand
+in a state of wonder; but this time we withstood the desire to hunt,
+in order to lose no time. Only once was the journey interrupted by a
+slight topographical incident. A bear which came near us, we frightened
+away by shouting, after which, Klentzer fell through the ice; he was
+pulled out, and had to cross a long broad breach. The ice had now
+become so thin that it began to break dangerously; we might, therefore,
+think ourselves fortunate, when in the darkness, after a seven hours’
+march of eighteen (English) miles, and after crossing a small field
+of snow, we arrived safely at the west side of the Fjord, which bent
+sharply to the north. It suddenly struck us that the sound in which
+we had landed was connected with the Ardencaple Inlet; we therefore
+altered our original plan of ascending the Domberg, and followed the
+Fjord northwards in order to climb one of those overlooking summits
+from which we might expect to solve this question. On the morning of
+the 17th of September, therefore (28° Fahr.), the sledge was left in
+the care of Tramnitz (who this day killed a reindeer), Kranschner, and
+Klentzer, whilst Captain Koldewey, Ellinger, and Payer hurried along
+for two hours in a northerly direction over the smooth ice, carefully
+jumping over the fragments broken by the tide, till at length they
+stood on the land at the foot of the mountain they wished to climb.
+
+Everywhere we were met by chilly glacier-streams, buried deep in a
+sedimentary crystalline formation. Our way led off over a precipitous
+declivity. Above a lovely valley containing a lake, we went, step by
+step, over large boulders; then over a small ice-field to the summit,
+which had taken us six hours and a half to reach. Nowhere was the
+boundary of vegetable life so marked as in our own Alps, which may
+arise from the fact that, owing to the length of the Arctic day,
+elevation above the sea less sensibly affects vegetation than with us.
+
+The view from the top was beyond description beautiful. It stretched
+over Hochstetter’s Foreland and Shannon, as far as Pendulum Island. We
+were at once convinced of the impregnable solidity of the pack-ice, as
+well as that the Fligely Fjord (as we had conjectured) did really open
+into Ardencaple Bay. Only to the west the horizon was entirely closed
+by massive peaks about twenty miles off.
+
+Several readings of the quicksilver barometer gave the height of our
+mountain as a little over 4050 feet. After three hours’ measuring,
+Payer had finished with the panorama, by which time the temperature of
+31.8° Fahr. was most unpleasant.
+
+In the meantime Captain Koldewey had gone back in a westerly direction
+on an excursion to the shoulders of a mountain, upon which he thus
+remarks in his day-book:--The mountain was nearly the highest in the
+neighbourhood, and as the weather was particularly fine and clear, we
+had a fine wide prospect. I went some nautical miles further westward
+along the ridge, in order to gain a better glimpse of the interior.
+Towards the south-west, the mountain fell precipitously in a deep
+ravine; beyond this the land was undulatory, and the outer horizon
+seemed bounded by a mountain chain running north and south. Towards
+the north was a long valley stretching east and west, and also to the
+south lay a deep basin with rugged sides. This basin was particularly
+free from snow, only the highest peaks being partly covered. Large
+glaciers were nowhere to be seen. Towards the east only, over Shannon,
+and Hochstetter’s Foreland, were some connected tracts of ice, but no
+trace of open water. Besides this, the ice-fields to the north-east of
+Shannon were not yet in motion, and the faint hope of advancing further
+north with the ship in the spring (which until now Captain Koldewey
+had nourished), disappeared at this sight. Wintering on Sabine Island
+had now become a certainty, and we retraced our way over ice and naked
+rocks. In vain did we try, in the now increasing darkness, to find a
+weapon which we had left behind, and just as fruitless was the search
+for a draught in the chilly glacier streams with which to quench our
+burning thirst. As we could no longer feel our way over the smooth
+ice along the strand, we ran quickly on. It was a glorious night; a
+perfect calm and a cloudless sky. A whitish northern light, which we
+saw to the south of us, together with the lights of the stars, shed a
+feeble glimmer over the icy landscape round us, and the ice-crowned
+tops of the surrounding mountains were distinctly to be seen. Nowhere
+does Nature show herself with greater power and expression than in the
+Arctic regions; and on such a September night as this it was truly
+majestic.
+
+About midnight we reached the tent. The men were already wrapped in
+their blankets, and the fire made of drift-wood and reindeer fat was
+nearly out. It was again brought to a flame, and soon we had a basin of
+strong reindeer soup, and some delicious steaks before us, which did
+us good. With a pipe we enjoyed the beauty of the night a little time
+longer, then wrapped ourselves in our blankets for a good sleep.
+
+On the 18th of September (20° Fahr.) a grey foggy curtain hung over
+Fligely Fjord. Tramnitz and Ellinger went to look for the missing
+weapon; others collected drift-wood on the shore, whilst Payer
+completed the materials for the chart, and the geological collection.
+
+At four p.m. we started on our return to the ship, as unfortunately our
+provisions forbade a longer stay. Further investigation of so important
+a discovery as Ardencaple Inlet, and that of the Fjord opening into it,
+could have been easily carried on under any other circumstances.
+
+The already-mentioned broad fissure in the road over the Fjord, brought
+us this time into an unpleasant position, for Klentzer broke through
+with the sledge. He succeeded in working himself up on to a stronger
+piece of ice; but as the water soaked through the baggage, the sledge
+sunk deeper and deeper. As it was impossible to pull it out on to the
+thin ice without unloading, we cut the ropes and brought the goods,
+one by one, on to the ice, and lastly the sledge also. Both of the
+barometers fell victims to this mishap, and from the theodolite-case
+the water spurted as if it had been touched by Moses’ wand.
+
+We were now forced to encamp at once on the shore, in order to dry our
+blankets, &c., by a fire of Andromeda.[50] That this was not quite a
+success may be believed, at a temperature of 18° Fahr.
+
+The saturated and frozen tent we could with difficulty raise at all;
+the folds were like lead. We suffered not a little from the cold that
+night; the weather at the same time becoming damp and inclement.
+The sky was cloudy, and in the afternoon there was a fall of snow,
+though without the customary accompaniment of wind. Meteorological
+observations on board indicated at the same time a storm from the
+north, which broke over Sabine Island and its neighbourhood on the
+afternoon of the 18th and the night of the 19th. The interior of the
+Fjord is evidently not so exposed to the devastation of the northern
+storms, which sweep the outer coast for nine months in the year, as it
+is to the deep loose snow which in the spring effectually prevents any
+advance into it. Nearly everywhere on the outer coast the snow was hard
+and firm.
+
+On the morning of the 19th a herd of musk-oxen approached to within
+about sixty paces of us, while some reindeer came very near us. We
+left them unharmed however, as we still had a store of that killed
+two days before. As we were starting on our way (14° Fahr.), Payer
+noticed a stone of strikingly light colour, which, on the south side
+of Kuhn Island, formed solid overhanging crystals, to at least 2000
+feet high. He therefore left the sledge, and to his great astonishment
+stumbled upon an enormous layer of coal, alternating with sandstone;
+this was most likely Lias coal, from three-quarters to eighteen inches
+thick. The fact that Payer was not armed, and that therefore--as he
+was heavily laden with coal and other minerals--he must be careful in
+this neighbourhood so overrun with bears, and had better return to the
+sledge, prevented any further investigation for the moment, of this
+interesting geological discovery.
+
+In the afternoon we reached Cape Hamburg (eight miles and a half). The
+following morning (20th September, 5° Fahr.) Payer, Tramnitz, and
+Ellinger, took the three hours’ walk back to the coal strata, to find,
+if possible, any petrifactions and imbedded substances. Their trouble
+was richly rewarded.
+
+The discovery of a coal layer is, for the future investigation of
+Greenland, of the greatest importance, as, of all the necessaries of
+life, want of fuel is that which would most prevent any long stay
+inland.
+
+Another interesting discovery was the trace of former glaciers. There
+were smooth rocks, 170 feet above the sea, and that in a valley
+perfectly free from ice,--central and lateral moraines, with the sharp,
+characteristic, longitudinal ridge,--and the mounds of débris and
+peculiar stone-dust. Unfortunately, in sledge journeys, hunger is a
+permanent discomfort; and although we ate plentifully and often of the
+reindeer, we were never thoroughly satisfied, in consequence of the
+difficulty of respiration.
+
+On the 21st of September we pulled, in 18° Fahr. and through violently
+drifting snow, over the snowy desert to Cape Berlin. After a short
+mid-day rest, and three more hours of travelling, we neared the
+northern entrance of Falsche Bay, where we passed the night.
+
+On the following day (21st September) we went on foot over the young
+ice, to our winter quarters on board ship, having travelled 133½ miles
+in all.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+
+             PREPARATIONS FOR WINTERING. 13TH SEPTEMBER TO
+                        7TH NOVEMBER, 1869.[51]
+
+   Hunting.--Supplying the ship with water for the
+   winter.--Forewarnings of winter.--Frost.--Habits of birds
+   of passage.--Return of the discoverers of the Fligely
+   Fjord.--Laying up of the ship for the winter.--State of
+   the Germania’s winter harbour.--Need of a good harbour for
+   Arctic wintering.--Heaving up anchor.--Laying up of the
+   ship.--Evening on the ice.--Skating.--Securing the hull
+   against the winter cold.--Wall of ice-blocks round the
+   ship.--Fine autumnal weather.--Storm.--Sun disappears the 6th
+   November.--Vegetation.--Scurvy-grass.--Visit from a bear.--A
+   bear-hunter.--A black fox.--Dredging.
+
+
+The Germania, as we have seen, had anchored once more under Sabine
+Island on the 13th of September; having thus performed a voyage of five
+weeks and a half; a space of time in which much might be done with
+steam, if only one had open water; instead of which we could only run
+along the coast by small stretches, as both in the north and the south,
+and also in the creeks to westward, solid masses of ice met the ship,
+which it was impossible to overcome. Attempts had therefore to be made
+to explore the land, independently of the ship. Accordingly, on the
+following day, the 14th, a journey was undertaken to Falsche Bay.
+
+Wintering under Sabine Island in the small “Germania Harbour,” where
+on the 5th of August we had first cast anchor, now seemed an absolute
+necessity; and Mr. Sengstacke was commissioned by the captain, in his
+absence to make all necessary arrangements.
+
+It was a fine, clear spring day, the 14th of September, at two p.m.,
+when, with high hopes, we saw the well-packed boat take its way through
+the young ice and disappear behind the tongue of land. The day before,
+Dr. Copeland and Sengstacke had gone hunting, and had fired at a
+reindeer, when the practised eye of the former saw a dark moving mass
+high on the Hasenberg, which could be nothing else than musk-oxen. This
+discovery set all in joyful excitement. We now knew that this creature
+visited our island, and we therefore had the prospect of successfully
+hunting some, which would form a treasured store of meat for the
+winter. As it was already late, the hunt had to be put off until the
+morning. Fortunately, the next day was just as fine and cloudless, and
+Dr. Copeland started early, accompanied by Louis Wagner, the stoker.
+Let us hear the events of this day:--
+
+“On the morning of the 13th of September, 1869, Sengstacke and I,
+accompanied by the stoker, started to follow the track of a reindeer
+which had been wounded the evening before. The weather was clear
+and fine; and as we had the whole day before us, we hoped certainly
+to find the object of our search,--provided, of course, that it had
+not left the island. After half an hour’s walking, we came to the
+plateau between Hasenberg and Germaniaberg, and soon found traces of
+the wounded creature. We followed them for some time when we became
+suddenly aware of the very desirable presence of three musk-oxen--two
+bulls and a cow--which were quietly grazing at a little distance. Until
+now we had not met with any of these animals on Pendulum Island; and
+our delight at the sight of these wild, interesting creatures may be
+imagined. Sengstacke and Wagner made a circuit towards the interior, to
+prevent them from flying to the hills in the interior of the island,
+whilst I remained on the coast, protected from their sight by a small
+hilly ridge running parallel with the shore, Sengstacke was the first
+to get within shooting distance, when, all at once, the oxen began
+to snort, which with them is a sign either of fear or of anger; and
+all three started at full speed straight to the Hasenberg, when they
+rapidly disappeared in the ravine at its foot. We now separated further
+still from one another, as we hoped to find them again in one of the
+deep ravines, when we suddenly saw them once more, hurrying up a steep
+declivity of loose stones. It was really a fine sight to see them
+leaping with such astonishing agility, where man would have had great
+trouble in even setting his foot. They kept close to each other, as
+all animals do that go in herds. Had they done otherwise, those far
+behind would have been under a perfect hail of stones from those which,
+in their eagerness, had hurried forward. This was the last we saw of
+them that day; for, although we scoured the whole of the southern slope
+of the Hasenberg, making a circuit into the interior, the creatures
+remained invisible. Chiefly from the wish to bag something, we shot
+some hares; but our whole thoughts were on the musk-oxen. As we
+returned I saw, as I had done in the morning, some eider-drakes. I
+mention this fact because we had seen a great number of ducks since we
+had landed, but only _mothers_ with their little ones, tending
+them until they were able to undertake the long journey to the south.
+
+“The next day Mr. Sengstacke, as acting officer of the ship, could
+not, unfortunately, accompany us. Wagner and I, therefore, started
+alone in quest of the oxen. As we neared the Hasenberg, we saw our
+friends, by the help of a pocket telescope, peacefully resting on the
+snow, at a height of from 1050 to 1200 feet above us, on the side of
+the mountain looking landwards. We climbed as quickly as possible, and
+after about an hour’s time found ourselves near them. But although we
+tried on every side to get close to them, we could not succeed without
+their seeing us. At last we were obliged to agree to try with less
+circumspection. At first they seemed quite contented with their work
+of chewing, not dreaming of any threatened danger, but suddenly, with
+a bound, they were off. I was so beyond myself at this mishap, that,
+from sheer desperation, I sent some shots after them, of course without
+any result. If their great speed and agility had astonished us the day
+before, our wonder was greater to-day, as we saw them bound up the
+acclivity, which was as steep as basalt fragments could possibly be. At
+the utmost, they were not more than three or four minutes reaching the
+height of 450 feet, which the top of the mountain appeared to reach.
+We followed slowly after them, and really the ascent was so difficult
+that it took us quite half an hour to do what the oxen had done in a
+few minutes. We found a slight trace of blood, thereby concluding that
+the chance shot had not been without its effect. Upon reaching the
+summit, we saw that they had climbed to a steep snow furrow on the
+outer slope of the roof-shaped mountain. As we knew that by following
+them we should only hasten their flight, we sat down and took some
+refreshment. It did not escape us, however, that the oxen had ceased
+to mount, and had withdrawn to the north-west side of the mountain.
+Here the ground was very uneven; deep rifts, alternating with stony
+hills. We now distinctly saw that one of the bulls was less active than
+the other, and as the unharmed one seemed resolved not to leave his
+comrade, they went but slowly forward. We waited until they were out of
+our sight behind the hills, and then followed as quickly as the stony
+nature of the ground permitted. We now passed quickly, but cautiously,
+one hilly range after another, and, at every open spot where the oxen
+might perceive us, we looked carefully to see if they were not in the
+next hollow. Thus we had passed several hills, and had begun to fear
+that our prey had escaped us again, when at that moment we espied the
+back of one. It was grazing, and coming straight towards us. I fell
+back at once, and, after drawing Wagner’s attention, dropped upon hands
+and knees, and thus approached the unsuspecting beast. Before they
+suspected anything, we were alongside of all three. Wagner’s Austrian
+breech-loader and my double-barrelled gun made it possible to give them
+the three shots in as many seconds; one of the oxen was quite incapable
+of combat. Wagner looked after the other, with which it seemed that he
+would have enough to do. The poor terror-stricken cow tried to blunder
+down the slope, and I ran after her. In two or three minutes I stood
+but a few steps from her and fired, aiming at the head. It was the
+first and last time that I tried this shot upon a musk ox. I struck
+the cow exactly in the middle of the forehead, about an inch above the
+eyes; she scarcely seemed to shrink, and I was glad to be able to give
+her another in the shoulder immediately, as she seemed inclined to try
+what she could do with her short, crooked horns in self-defence. Wagner
+in the meantime had finished his part of the work, so that, after
+cutting their throats, we rolled them some hundred feet down the deep,
+steep slope, where they rested upon a comparatively smooth snow-heap.
+Then followed the less agreeable but necessary work of skinning them.
+Wagner was willing enough and strong enough; but as this sort of work
+was new to him, the greater part of course fell to my share. As the
+animals were so near the ship, I much wished to so skin them as to put
+them in our collection; and at last, after the lapse of two hours,
+we had the pleasure of taking off the skin of the third ox, with its
+head and feet attached. Whilst thus busied, we kept a sharp look-out
+for less agreeable guests; for a bear, attracted by the smell of the
+dead animals, might visit us; but at first nothing happened. Excited
+by the happy results of our hunt, we were about returning, when Wagner
+suddenly saw a huge bear very near to us. He was a magnificent fellow.
+Standing on the back of the neighbouring height, he twisted his long
+neck from right to left, sniffing the air with every sign of caution
+and mistrust; he showed to advantage as he stood with his powerful
+broad breast presented to us; his huge paws firm upon the ground, or
+sometimes raised when he stood on his hind feet to sniff the air more
+effectually. As soon as we saw him, we ducked between the stones, and
+examined whether we had cartridges enough. I being more practised in
+shooting than Wagner, took his breech-loader, which for this case was
+the best weapon. Carefully did I pick the spot in the silvery shining
+fur of Bruin where the heart ought to be, and fired. With a fearful
+howl he disappeared behind the hill. We followed him as fast as our
+legs could carry us, and found the huge beast about twenty paces from
+the spot where he had been standing mortally wounded. We gave him an
+extra shot to make sure, and then opened the jugular vein. I think
+this was the largest specimen of _Ursus maritimus_ that we saw
+during our stay in the Arctic regions. He was very fat, proving that
+though his teeth were gone, the experience of age had taught him how to
+supply all necessaries. Our united exertions could not turn him round,
+so, for the present, we had to leave him. Our comrades on board were
+delighted at the prospect of being so richly provided with fresh meat;
+and on the following morning, at half-past two, we started with seven
+men, two boats, and a light sledge. At two p.m. we returned laden with
+the carcases, heads, and skins of our three oxen, and the head and
+skin of the great bear, besides some foxes which we surprised at our
+meat store. One of them seemed fond of liver, and was making off with
+a large piece when a shot brought him down. At dinner, when the liver
+came on the table, some shot in the piece which had fallen to my lot,
+showed that I had shared the unlucky fox’s last morsel. Our careful
+sailors were of opinion that no gift of God’s should be lost, so they
+had brought it away and found it useful for the cabin table.” So far
+Dr. Copeland’s account.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 331._
+
+  THE GERMANIA IN THE ICE.]
+
+Frost had now set in, and we could not tell how soon real winter,
+with cold, storm, and snow, would overtake us. Our first duty was the
+ship’s safety and preparations for passing the winter.
+
+Orders were then given that all the ship’s crew should once more enjoy
+the sweet water from the neighbouring brook, as we wished to avoid as
+long as possible the use of melted snow. In spite of the difficulty
+of fetching water in the boat, we had just finished in time; as on
+the 17th the earth was frozen on the surface, and the streams showed
+but little water, and in the course of a day or two ceased running
+altogether.
+
+And now ever more menacingly did the harbinger of winter warn us.
+Boreas, with his sudden and violent rising, and the heavy squalls
+under Pendulum Island, which we soon learnt to know, burst no fewer
+than three times over the ship this week. On the 16th the storm was so
+strong that we had to drop the second anchor.
+
+The next day was again a fine, still autumn day. On the 18th the almost
+inch-thick covering of ice burst into several floes, so that we were
+able to tow our ship further into the harbour.
+
+That evening and night we had another storm from the north, which,
+however, did no harm to the ship, but broke up all the ice afresh and
+drifted it away, so that the Germania was once more free in the water;
+but it was for the last time.
+
+The coming Sunday broke still and clear, though the temperature even at
+noon was not above 19° Fahr. rising to 46°. A new icy covering formed,
+increasing in thickness so quickly that in the night of the 20th and
+21st, the rising storm in the creek, with its hurricane gusts, could
+not break it. All possibility of going out with the boat was now quite
+at an end. It was on this Sunday (19th), the same day on which the
+Hansa, on the floe 120 miles further south, found that she was frozen
+in; but what a difference in circumstances there and here!
+
+It was interesting for us at this time to observe the life and ways of
+some of those birds of passage whose existence depends upon open water.
+There were from thirteen to fifteen eider-ducks in the harbour, four
+of which were old ones, swimming in two groups. During the following
+days we had frequent opportunities, in the open fissures and holes at
+the entrance of the creek, particularly near the peninsula, where the
+observatory stood, to watch the short flights of these birds. They also
+flew round the ship and the bay, and then disappeared. On the 20th
+these water-holes had disappeared, and with them the ducks. Only one
+young thing was left behind, which timidly waddled by on the slippery
+ice, and dead-tired was at last shot out of pity. When later, from the
+cutting through of the ship on the 24th, a channel of open water was
+formed, ducks again appeared, and several were killed. The attempt to
+keep one alive on board did not, however, succeed.
+
+As in the course of the 21st the weather cleared, and our comrades
+had been absent seven days, we began to be uneasy about them; we
+anticipated all sorts of mishaps, and finally determined to go and meet
+them the next day with some provisions.
+
+On the 22nd, therefore, Mr. Sengstacke started early with two men, to
+beat the south side of the island. For the first time they succeeded in
+getting to land on foot across the ice, it having frozen so sharply the
+last few nights. Our uneasiness was fortunately quite unnecessary. The
+travellers returned to the island in good spirits, and Mr. Sengstacke
+and his companions had the unexpected good fortune to kill two reindeer.
+
+Thus we were all together once more, and were able seriously to set
+to work upon our winter preparations. It was indeed high time. The
+thermometer at night was already below 14° Fahr., and we could expect
+nothing but an increase of cold.
+
+The first requisite was to find a secure position for the ship. It
+ought not to come in contact with drifting ice, but remain quietly
+on the spot where it was frozen in, until summer should free it from
+its icy fetters. The experience of former Arctic explorers had proved
+that the most serious dangers and difficulties might arise under
+unfavourable circumstances. The eminent Arctic explorer Kane was in
+his first voyage blocked in the pack-ice for nearly nine months; and
+on the second he was obliged to leave the frozen-in brig in Rensselaer
+harbour, and make a most difficult journey with the boats.
+
+For ourselves, according to human calculations, we might look forward
+to future events without any misgiving. Our ship had run at the right
+time into the finest winter harbour that we could desire. It seemed as
+if nature had made it for the Germania.
+
+Almost circular, with a peculiarly narrow entrance, it lay on the
+south-east point of the island. To the north, the far-spreading land
+and a mountain chain of more than 900 feet high formed a continual
+protection against the devastating northern storms, as well as from
+the rushing current of the pack-ice; and Walrus Island, lying to the
+south-east, protected the harbour from the strong pressing and pushing
+of the ice, which, drifting by the sea-breeze or the currents against
+the neighbouring open coast, was sometimes followed by frightful
+results.
+
+This creek was named “Germania Harbour.” Koldewey would willingly have
+wintered farther north, in order to have a more advanced starting-point
+for the sledge journeys in the spring, but no safer harbour or
+anchorage existed under Shannon Island or Klein-Pendulum; and we had
+cause to be thankful that we were not obliged to seek shelter farther
+south, somewhere about Gael Hamkes Bay.
+
+On the 24th of September, the ship was brought to the chosen spot, 300
+paces from the western point of land. For this purpose we had to cut a
+channel in the now three-inch-thick ice. The cutting of the ice, and
+the song of the sailors as they towed the ship along, sounded cheerful
+on this fine winter morning; and before noon the work was completed.
+The Germania now lay for 290 days condemned to inactivity, with her bow
+N.N.W., in order, as much as possible, to break the force of the storm.
+
+The next morning the command, “Heave anchor!” sounding so peculiar to
+every voyager, was heard for the last time, followed by the regular
+rattling of the windlass. The anchor was stowed away on board, as we
+had no further use for it; and the ship, until it should freeze in
+position, was made fast with ropes to the ice and the neighbouring rock.
+
+She had now to be entirely unfitted, down to the lower masts and the
+shrouds, and everything brought on land that would not be required
+during the winter. Thus, on one side, the ship was disburdened, and on
+the other we gained considerable space both on deck and in the cabin,
+which in every respect was, in winter, of the greatest importance.
+
+First, the sails were taken down and rolled together, then the yards
+and the maintopmast, and the sails and all the rigging dismantled. The
+foretopmast we purposely left standing, that we might have a lofty
+point, which, in the course of time, might be useful for observing
+the air-currents and electricity. Then the deck was cleared, and the
+long-boat hoisted from its place. The spare spars and all utensils
+and chests were brought to shore. The same thing was done with all
+provisions which the frost could not destroy, except, of course, what
+we needed for use during the half-year. The two largest boats we laid
+with the yards, &c., on the flat shore at the end of the harbour.
+For the provisions, however, we erected a “depôt,” half way to the
+observatory on the peninsula. On a layer of planks we closely packed
+our chests and vessels, covering them with sails, the edges of which
+were kept down by heavy stones. Thus buried, our belongings seemed able
+to defy both storms and bears. But other things remained to be done.
+One or two men had to help build the stone houses; and the engineer and
+the stoker were busy taking the machinery to pieces. One of these stone
+houses was intended for an observatory. It was built on the corner of
+land lying near to the ship, upon the steep edge of the bank; for the
+other, as a magnetical observatory, a more north-west position seemed
+preferable.
+
+The glorious evenings on the ice during these last September weeks, the
+first of our winter stay, will ever be remembered by all.
+
+Seamen and scientific men worked valiantly in the sweat of their
+faces the whole day long; and when the longed-for evening meal was
+over, there remained one or two hours of enjoyment in each other’s
+society, which we generally passed in skating. If the ice had not that
+mirror-face which our own fresh-water lakes present, still it had its
+charms. We then settled down to friendly conversation, as we were
+accustomed to do in our own country, some adepts, others novices, but
+all eager to learn the art.
+
+The fate of the Hansa, too, troubled us, giving us constant room for
+conjecture, though having but little real fear for her. For comforting
+circumstances greatly preponderated, and it would have been unnatural
+with such, if we had not believed in the lucky stars of our comrades
+and their tried captain. Added to this, the present had such constant
+claims upon us that we had no time for moping. To keep out the snow
+and wind, and also to keep in the warmth, a tent of strong sail-cloth
+was stretched over the ship; and finally a three-inch-thick layer of
+moss was spread over the deck. The tent-roof had been prepared before
+our departure, so it had only to be put up. Where it was bolted we
+placed upright supports, so that even there we might walk upright,
+and from these the roof rose almost obliquely to the top, which was
+composed of the mainboom and the mizzenboom placed longitudinally. From
+the foremast it descended to the forestays, and with that down to the
+bows, ending over the stern with a more perpendicular gable.
+
+  [Illustration: THE GERMANIA ON SABINE ISLAND.
+
+    _Page 336._]
+
+As has already been said, this was composed of the strongest
+sail-cloth; and the different parts were so firmly put together that we
+dared to hope it would resist the storm; and the more so as the sharp
+front lay towards the north wind. At the back, looking towards the
+observatory, was the exit, the only opening in the tent, which could
+be closed by a trap-board. Through this small hole we slipped in and
+out on to some wooden steps by which we reached the ice. The favourable
+weather was also taken advantage of to tar the ship’s sides.
+
+Whilst the outside was thus putting on its winter clothing, many
+alterations were made within. The question here was not only the
+greatest protection from cold, but the making it really habitable and
+home-like. We already found that the warmest half was the fore-cabin,
+just abaft the forecastle, and which was built like a cage in the
+middle of the hold, which surrounded it on all four sides. Hereupon a
+winter cabin for the captain had to be made, as the former, from its
+isolated position in the after-part of the ship, required too much coal
+to warm it.
+
+As it was further desirable, both for work and amusement during the
+long winter, to have more room, the back wall of the cabin was set
+back three quarters of a yard; and on a line with this a new room of
+forty-three inches in depth was built, connected by an opening, but
+with no door. The wooden walls of the cabin were then covered on the
+outside with felt, and on the inside with thick woollen stuff, called
+“coating.” The floor was partly covered with a carpet, and partly
+also with felt and sail-cloth nailed over it. The iron stove had then
+to change its place and go into the farthest corner, from whence it
+could most effectually warm all parts. The ceiling was likewise set up
+inside, and it was intended by-and-by to cover the roof with snow for
+protection. The skylight, too, could not be allowed to remain open;
+so we covered it, both out and inside, except in the brightest hours
+of the day; and in order that we might enjoy the light as long as
+possible, the back part of the tent roof on the forepart of the ship
+was always rolled back until the 9th of October, when lamps were burnt
+all day long. Our stove proved excellent. While outside the temperature
+stood at from O° to 4° Fahr., in the cabin we were able to keep up an
+agreeable warmth with about ten pounds of coal.
+
+But, besides the cold, the European wintering in the North has another
+enemy awaiting him, which often brings on illness; this enemy is
+the damp. The wateriness of the atmosphere, rising from all parts,
+penetrates into the rooms, settling naturally upon every relatively
+cold object. These are particularly the walls and ceiling of the cabin.
+And even with continual airing we did not succeed in keeping the damp
+really out of the cabin. In order, therefore, to accomplish this, we
+bored large holes, after Ross’s example, of two inches diameter through
+the deck, turning over it a large hollow iron vessel covered with snow,
+on the very cold inner surface of which the watery contents of the
+atmosphere soon condensed, forming a crust of ice, which was removed
+from time to time. Two of these condensers we placed over the cabin,
+two over the forecastle, and one over the captain’s cabin.
+
+In the forecastle, as may be supposed, no further heating was necessary
+than that caused by the daily cooking in the caboose. Indeed, at
+meal-time the heat was so great that the door had to be opened and the
+condensing holes left uncovered for a long time; by these means the
+damp was more easily got rid of.
+
+Another contrivance we made for melting the snow. In the chimney of the
+caboose we constructed a receiver, from the bottom of which a pipe ran
+through the deck into a barrel, and all snow thrown into the receiver,
+being melted by the warmth of the chimney, fell into it.
+
+During all these preparations in September and October the days had
+become visibly shorter and the air colder. As, however, it had not
+snowed yet, we agreed for the time to surround the ship with a wall of
+ice-blocks. This we did on the 11th of October. A row of blocks were
+brought in a line from the stern of the ship to the small bridge near
+the observatory leading to the land. They were soon frozen fast, and
+from them a rope was drawn to the land. This erection, already tried
+by Parry, was also intended to show us the way to the ship in gloomy
+and snowy weather. We did not then dream of what great service this
+improvised fence would be to us. Our jolly-boat, too, would more than
+once have been carried away by the storm had it not found a check to
+its wild course.
+
+On the 2nd of November so great a quantity of snow fell that the ship
+was completely enveloped, and also a thick layer over the moss on deck.
+And now, when the winter night should come, we were prepared to receive
+it; but we had to wait some time longer.
+
+The whole of October and some part of November we enjoyed the finest
+autumn weather. We called this, with good reason, _late autumn_:
+real _winter_ it was not yet to us. “Fine clear weather with
+calm,”--such was the ever-repeated entry in the ship’s log, and we
+had, indeed, “over East Greenland an ever-smiling heaven.” Besides
+the storms of the 19th and 20th, until the 21st of September, we had
+three more. On the 7th they blew the fiercest, lasting seventeen hours,
+and bringing much snow with them. These were followed by the others
+on the 13th and 30th. During these storms the roof of the observatory
+was completely torn off, and scattered in portions wide over the ice,
+so that we had to construct a new and stronger one. Fortunately we
+had delayed putting in the instruments, or they would have suffered
+terribly.
+
+On the 12th of October we began hourly meteorological readings. Besides
+the thermometers hanging in their cases in the observatory, some were
+posted up between the ship and the land, and by them was hoisted a
+black white and red flag, partly for ornament and partly to show the
+direction of the wind. At the stern of the ship an ingenious apparatus
+was erected, by which the rising and falling of the tide could be
+observed. The hole in the ice, through which the pole protruded for
+some distance (“Flutloch”[52] we named it), served the cook for getting
+out the water wanted, and in case of fire was our only means of
+preservation. To keep this free from ice and of uniform dimensions was
+our daily care.
+
+In the course of October the cold increased sensibly, though not so
+much as we expected. Whilst at the end of September the mean daily
+temperature was still 14° Fahr., it fell by the 19th of October, with
+few exceptions, to 12°, which was its minimum, whilst its maximum was
+25°. The temperature of the water under the ice was 34°, and remained
+at that point during the whole winter.
+
+For a long time we noticed a peculiar appearance, which, at the first
+glance, seemed to contradict all known facts. At first the surface of
+the young ice in the harbour was smooth and firm, but soon we found it
+damp and slippery, even at 13° to 18° of cold. We now found that this
+damp coating was strongly saline, and that in places, as, for example,
+quite in the inside of the creek, where an overflow of water from the
+shore, or from cracks or holes, was not to be thought of. Later on,
+after a storm, we found on the surface of the newly-formed ice in front
+of the creek, a white covering of salt; more than this, we all found
+from experience that the snow lying on the ice, even at a great depth,
+was more or less brackish, so that what was wanted for melting had to
+be brought from land. As it is now a known fact that in the freezing
+of sea-water the salt is expelled, and nothing but pure water is found
+in the ice when formed, the appearance of salt on the surface puzzled
+us. The same appearance has already been noticed by Wrangell. It is
+difficult to account for this in any way but the following, viz.,
+that part of the salt water concentrated under the ice being hard to
+freeze, it is by some power or other forced through the pores of the
+ice to the surface. The ice in the harbour itself retained its smooth
+surface and its first appearance, though in front of it the young ice,
+soon after its formation, was repeatedly, and often to a large extent,
+thrown one piece upon another, and that frequently in sharp detached
+corner fragments. To the south of the harbour, and the east of Walrus
+Island, this appearance was most perceptible. The cause of this, as
+well as of the fractures in the ice, is to be found in the crowding
+together of heavy masses, which are set in motion either by the current
+or the wind. In the same way the young crowded ice, when the coast lies
+before it, is pushed on to it; or, if the bank is steep, is crushed
+against it and heaped up in wild confusion. This heaping up the bank
+is considerably increased by the ebb-tide, and if the difference only
+amounts to about three feet, still at each sinking of the water the
+ice will break away from the bank, and during the flow press slowly
+but steadily again towards it. In this way, in contrast to the real
+icy covering of the sea, is formed a more or less seamless wall on the
+bank, which is called “ice-foot.” This pushing up of the ice was but
+slight in the harbour, but on the south end of Walrus Island we noticed
+that it rose to the height of 30 feet. Another phenomenon of the moving
+ice was the formation of “hummocks,” which we could not properly
+observe in our neighbourhood, as the ice either lay harmless or was
+torn away by the storm.
+
+All these movements of the ice--the gradual crowding and pressing,
+bending and pushing, the breaking of the masses of snow lying at the
+“ice-foot”--do not go on noiselessly, but are generally accompanied by
+certain sounds, which are called the “voices” of the ice. Now we hear
+a low singing, splashing, or grumbling, alternating with various other
+noises, cracking and snapping; now it sounds irregularly from a great
+distance, like a confusion of human voices, like the changing din of a
+train or a sledging party; or you fancy you hear the steps and voices
+of all sorts of animals. There is a peculiar charm in listening to
+these sounds on a still moonlight night, and often at first we were
+greatly deceived.
+
+All belonging to the real heavy ice masses we watched the whole autumn
+through, at ever-varying distances from the coast. Like a boundless,
+continuous, uneven white mass lay the pack-ice to the north, joining
+the land-ice at Shannon Island, reaching in the south past Gael Hamkes
+Bay to the coast. Seldom did we see even the smallest streak of water;
+and if this did happen, it was soon again covered with ice and snow.
+Moreover, that this pack-ice was no firm connected mass we convinced
+ourselves; and, more than that, we saw distinctly that it slowly but
+steadily drifted southward. In stormy weather (from the north) this
+drift was greatly increased, and the few fields and flakes were more
+separated from one another.
+
+As the winter drew on, and the sun described a smaller and smaller
+circle each day as the cold increased, and snow as well as ice covered
+everything, we were beginning our really winter life, the commencement
+of which we set at the 6th of November, the day the sun disappeared. On
+some excursions in the neighbourhood of Germaniaberg, Hasenberg, Hansa
+Bay, and Walrus Island, the ground being free from snow afforded us
+continual opportunities for botanical research, which were not without
+result.
+
+On a clear sunny day, for instance, the surface of the earth got warm,
+so that by noon, at two inches deep, it was 37° to 39° Fahr.; but the
+night frosts were so sharp, and the temperature of the air so low, that
+by the middle of September the plants had already run their yearly
+course, and were prepared for a nine months’ winter rest. Only two
+there were that differed from the rest by retaining their green leaves
+to deck the earth, boldly facing the cold winter day, and even bearing
+well-preserved blossom; these were the mouse-ear chickweed (_Cerastum
+alpinum_, L.) and the spoon-wort (_Cochlearia fenestrata_, R.
+Br.). The first-mentioned resembles our well-known pimpernel, which
+in the autumn distributes amongst the dead plants the green-white
+soft leaves of the young shoots, sometimes retaining its blossoms or
+buds quite fresh in spite of the frost, and, later on, when covered
+with snow, still remaining unchanged, and with the beginning of the
+new year, as soon as the warmth has penetrated to its roots, the nine
+months’ interrupted growth continues without any perceptible change in
+the plant. These interesting circumstances, which one would scarcely
+expect to meet in the far North, only happens with the mouse-ear
+chickweed upon favourable spots, as, for instance, on the heights of
+Walrus Island. Much more distinctly and constantly does it appear with
+the spoon-wort. This plant, many species of which grow on our German
+coasts, is pretty general in the far North; and by old seafarers its
+green succulent leaves are eaten as a specific against scurvy. If at
+the present day they have no longer this virtue, as a salad it is both
+a wholesome and agreeable dish. We scarcely made use of it, partly
+because it was scarce and partly because we had an abundant supply of
+preserved vegetables. The spoon-wort we really only found in great
+quantities during the whole of our journeys, in two places at the end
+of the peninsula, where the observatory stood, and on the cliffs of
+Walrus Island. But here it does not seek the damp salt earth as in
+our country, but the highest parts of these places; the thick rosette
+of leaves, either large or small, lying between the stones, often
+inclosing in its centre the differently-developed, thickly-knotted
+buds. Thus, whilst the long outer leaves fall a quick sacrifice to the
+frost, this stout juicy heart braves it valiantly. At a cold of 4° to
+9° Fahr. we saw no effect produced upon it; and, perhaps, this hardy
+growth could stand still more.
+
+Of annuals which flourish in more temperate climates, the Arctic Flora
+possesses few. We found in reality none, though one might consider
+a sort of saxifrage (_Saxifraga flagellaris_, Willd.) amongst
+them which propagates itself by layers, and is called by the English
+most appropriately “spider-wort.” This plant, with its strong rosette
+of leaves and coarse, handsome, yellow flowers, we had seen blooming
+in numbers on the low grounds in August. On the reddish stalks, from
+one to three inches long, we saw buds about the size of a small pea,
+generally from three to eight in a circle. These buds form roots at
+their bases, which were even then beginning to sink into the ground.
+
+Now, at the end of September, we found the parent plant dead. It was
+easily pulled from the earth, and even the tendrils broke short off,
+so that the young plant stood alone ready to unfold its blossoms next
+year. In spite of all our searches we found no fruit, not even any
+partly developed. Thus we have an example of a plant being only able to
+propagate itself by its seed in favourable years. The preservation of
+this sort of plant is quite independent of climate. All other plants
+are evergreen shrubs, each individual having the power of ripening seed
+unnecessarily every year. Upon this also we made some observations.
+
+The bilberry (_Vaccinium uliginosum_, L.), which we found growing
+in low, weak bushes on the eastern declivity of the Hasenberg, and
+lower down near the shore, showed no sign whatever of having bloomed
+the year before. The same was the case with the Andromeda on the
+southern declivity of Germaniaberg; whilst this plant, on the warm
+southern slope of the Hasenberg, not only grew strong, but still bore
+the withered blossoms of this and the former year. But we found no
+formation of fruit.
+
+Overtaken by the autumnal frost while in its bloom was another
+species of saxifrage, the _Saxifraga hirculus_ (L.), and often some
+specimens of the yellow-blooming poppy (_Papaver nudicaule_); whilst
+other plants, as the _Silene acaulis_ (L.), _Lychnis apetala_, mostly
+_Cruciferæ_, the _Ranunculus_, _Cinquefoil_, and the beautiful
+_Polemonium humile_, the seed of which had long since ripened, and was
+partly scattered. The _Polemonium_ I saw for the first time on the
+southern declivity of the Hasenberg--a strong, large-leaved plant in
+the otherwise so sterile, stony ground. The Cinquefoil grew here to
+half a foot high. Moreover, we found nearly everywhere and on every
+plant this year’s _leaves_, and very often those of the former year. In
+September this was seen mostly in the willow-leaves (and the catkins),
+though many had been torn away by the storm, and heaped up in the
+hollows and on the slopes. Thus in the snow furrows between the low
+land and the great valley had formed, as far as one could see, a dark
+horizontal line, which we afterwards proved consisted of nothing but
+dry willow-leaves.
+
+We were also able to study the important influence which storms exert
+over the different kinds of vegetation. The storm of the 9th and 10th
+of October afforded us a good opportunity for our observations, which
+were confirmed the following year.
+
+To a much less extent, unfortunately, were we able to learn the flora
+of the sea. We succeeded in pulling up some florideæ at a depth of from
+twenty-six fathoms and five fathoms. It was also striking how, nearly
+everywhere in the neighbourhood of the coast, either under or amongst
+the ice, where pieces of algæ were torn up, they proved to be the
+large yellow-green _Laminaria phyllitis_ and the many-branching,
+greyish-green _Desmarestia aculeata_, mostly uprooted by the
+walrus, and, when rising to the surface, eventually frozen in.
+
+If the land presented all that was interesting to a botanist, the
+zoologists found it quite the reverse. The lower grade of animal life
+had, since the first regular night-frosts (that is on land, for on
+the banks it froze much sooner), run its course; and of birds, most
+had taken their departure; still, on the 5th of October, we saw two
+snow-buntings. The day after the great storm (October 10th) we killed a
+ptarmigan at the foot of the Hasenberg in full winter feather. Besides
+the ravens, which we saw frequently, we were visited at the end of
+September by some grey-backed sea-mews; three hawks circled one day
+round our ship, and once we saw a white eagle.
+
+The capture of a lemming[53] was interesting to us, one of those
+insignificant rodentia, different species of which are to be found
+in all Arctic countries. On the west coast they are not yet known to
+any extent; from the east coast one of these animals was brought by
+Scoresby. They were lemmings which we saw on the 5th of August while
+digging among the Esquimaux huts, though we did not succeed in killing
+one. This specimen, the first and the last we ever captured, was killed
+on the open field running among the stones. A peculiar creature, in
+its thick, unshaped head and body, without ears or tail, it somewhat
+resembles the mole; the short, long-haired feet were armed with strong
+claws, and the thick fur was of a greyish-brown colour.
+
+
+
+Lemmings do not seem rare here. Independently of the masses of filth in
+the entrance of those huts, we had seen earth-holes in several places,
+which must have belonged to them, and particularly in the neighbourhood
+of the harbour and Walrus Island. On the latter, on the freshly-fallen
+snow, in the middle of October were unmistakable tracks of them; and
+that they are often welcome food to the fox we concluded from finding
+the dung of these beasts of prey, consisting of nothing but the hair
+and bones of lemmings. Some tracks, as we have already said, we
+followed from the south corner of the island over to Walrus Island,
+which shows that they move late in the year, and also to some distance.
+Besides these, we saw foxes and reindeer; hunting the latter was all
+the more our particular pleasure, that it promised a further supply of
+fresh meat to our larder. The reindeer, moreover, never appeared in our
+neighbourhood except by ones or twos, were very shy, and were easily
+driven away by nearing them incautiously. We saw no more of musk-oxen;
+on the other hand, on the 20th of October the Germania received the
+first visit from a polar bear.
+
+As Dr. Börgen in the twilight was about reading off the depth by the
+sounding-pole at seven p.m. he suddenly saw a bear about thirty paces
+from him coming slowly along, most likely attracted by the smell of
+a dead reindeer which lay by the ship. Unarmed as he was, he hastily
+returned to the ship, and now, of course, all were on deck with guns
+ready. But the bear, either from the disturbance or the unusual sight
+of the ship, hesitated somewhat, making a large circle round it,
+often standing still, and tossing its snout in the air. As he seemed
+inclined to go to land, and take no further notice of us, we tried to
+entice him by a savoury-smelling fire of bacon, but in vain. At last,
+after some time, we discovered him again by the observatory, fumbling
+over all sorts of offal placed there as a bait for foxes, ravens, &c.
+Armed with guns and ammunition, we approached him cautiously from two
+sides. The combat began, and, hit in the leg, the bleeding animal
+turned to bolt with mighty strides sheer across the land, but was soon
+forced to rest; our hunters rushed across the stones towards him, and
+once more shots rattled round him. The bear gathered himself up and
+made for the ice, and was given up for lost by his pursuers, when he
+suddenly fell. Hurrah! But it was nine o’clock, and we had no time to
+lose, for at a temperature of 0° Fahr. he must be quickly skinned.
+This not very agreeable work in the cold and twilight was undertaken
+by Messrs. Copeland, Pansch, and Iversen, whilst others went on board
+for a sledge. On this the carcase and the skin were laid. Dr. Pansch,
+however, would not leave the preparation of the bones, which he already
+mentally saw gracing some German museum. His gun lay ready beside him,
+for it was very likely that a second bear, drawn by the smell of flesh,
+might come to help at the work. But nothing happened, and about two
+o’clock the skeleton lay upon the ice.
+
+The beginning of November the first black fox was brought in; it was
+caught in a trap, and was a fine creature. Thus for the zoologists
+there was instructive work enough on land. But the question always
+rose over and over again, Could there be no investigation of the fauna
+of the seas, which, unfortunately, during the voyage had to remain in
+abeyance? Could not something be done now?
+
+On the 11th of October, from the cutting of the ice-blocks, there was
+left a channel, and from it, with the help of the dredging-net, we
+brought up different crustacea, particularly amphipoda, and several
+species of worms. But it was difficult to classify them, as the cold in
+the evening was over 2.5° Fahr., so that the contents of the net froze
+rapidly.
+
+As, on the 25th of October, Captain Koldewey went far to the east
+across the ice to take soundings, he saw that several small, fresh
+cracks had taken place. This seemed a favourable opportunity for
+dredging, promising the greater success, as the depth of the water
+was here twenty-five to twenty-eight fathoms. On two of the following
+days this was carried out; a sledge was laden with the necessary
+articles, and about ten o’clock Dr. Pansch and two men set to work;
+as soon as the thin ice was removed, forming a fresh gap, two holes,
+at appropriate distances from it, were made large enough to let down
+the net and pull it up again. When it reached the ground, the strong
+rope was drawn in the whole length of the gap to the other hole,
+then, running over a smooth stick, was held at the end by four strong
+hands, and slowly in the direction of the gap drawn further on until
+the net appeared at the hole, when it was taken out and emptied on to
+the sledge. Besides different kinds of cockles and shell-fish, crabs
+and worms, there were a great number of sea-urchins (_Toxopneuster
+neglectus_), and several long-armed ophiuri.
+
+On the 1st of November we succeeded in dredging once more from the edge
+of the old ice. With that this geological work was also brought to
+an end, as the days were growing darker and shorter, and storms were
+breaking out again. The scrupulous, minute record of meteorological
+calculations from hour to hour (so sneered at by the uninitiated) had
+begun, and was now part of our daily work, and was carried on through
+the whole of the winter without intermission.
+
+Besides this it was desirable (and was also mentioned in the
+instructions) that longer journeys should be taken into the interior.
+These were to have chiefly a geographical aim, and, as far as the
+necessary care for our safety allowed, Koldewey endeavoured to carry
+these out.
+
+In the beginning of October, therefore, a sledge journey was planned,
+first in a westerly direction, in order to ascertain if in the
+interior of Flache Bay there might be a stratum of coal; and then
+southwards towards Cape Wynn to Clavering Island, to find whether the
+Esquimaux settlement seen by Clavering in the year 1823 still existed.
+Preparations were made for this excursion, and on the evening of the
+7th of October the party started (Captain Koldewey, First Lieutenant
+Payer, Dr. Copeland, Peter Ellinger, Peter Iversen, and George
+Herzberg). The air was heavy, but otherwise fine weather, and the
+travellers reached Flache Bay the same day, raising their tent under a
+mountain to the north.
+
+The next morning the weather was gloomy and foggy, with some snow
+falling. We could, therefore, only make a hasty geological excursion to
+the mountain which lay near. We found coal-formation and petrifactions,
+without coming upon real coal. Fog and snow prevented further
+investigation, so that, in a geographical point of view, nothing could
+be done. As the weather was so unfavourable, we thought it better to
+return and husband our strength for another enterprise to the south.
+
+On the 12th and 13th violent snow-storms raged, which broke all the
+ice around Cape Wynn. First Lieutenant Payer, however, wished much to
+close the year, if possible, with one good discovery. Thus, on the 27th
+of October, a sledge expedition started under his superintendence with
+the intention of exploring the land to the south of Flache Bay. He
+was accompanied by Dr. Copeland and the sailors Iversen, Wagner, and
+Herzberg. They returned on the 4th of November at half-past nine p.m.
+The account of this journey will be given in the next chapter.
+
+  [Illustration: ARCTIC FOX AT A TRAP.]
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VII.
+
+         RETURN BY SLEDGES TO CLAVERING ISLAND, AND DISCOVERY
+             OF THE    TIROLER FJORD. 27TH OCTOBER TO 4TH
+                            NOVEMBER, 1869.
+
+   Autumn the best time for sledge excursions.--Skating
+   journey.--Dr. Copeland’s bear adventure.--Walrus.--Cape
+   Borlase Warren.--East side of Clavering Island.--Tiroler
+   Fjord discovered on 29th October.--Splendid Aurora
+   Borealis.--Night-quarters on an Arctic journey.--Glaciers.--Rich
+   vegetation.--On Clavering Island.--Remarkable glacier
+   movement.--Erratic ice-blocks.--The Greenland
+   glacier-ice.--Return to quarters of 28th October.--Chased by a
+   walrus.--Return to ship on 4th November, 1869.
+
+
+No more exciting situation can be imagined than that of an explorer in
+unknown lands, more especially when nature seems to have surrounded
+them with an impenetrable wall, and the earth is as yet untrodden by
+the foot of man. The Arctic pioneers of England and America have, in
+their voyages of discovery, nearly always come in contact with mankind,
+if only those of the lowest grade of civilization. The fast dog-sledges
+of the Esquimaux--this slowly-dying-out people (often most incorrectly
+classed with the Mogul race)--seem to form, in the account of these
+explorers, as great a factotum of life as the art of their conjurers
+or the cleverness of their hunters. For ourselves, this longing for
+companionship was left unsatisfied, for the Esquimaux have either
+entirely deserted the eastern coast of Greenland or have become extinct.
+
+We found that sledge journeys could only be undertaken across the
+frozen sea or the Fjord in the autumn; the temperature ranging at that
+time (in the latitude in which we were) between 21° Fahr. and -11°; the
+weather was now perfectly clear and settled; and, lastly, the Fjords
+were mostly covered with smooth ice. Again, the moderate cold of this
+time of the year, when comparatively light clothing is sufficient, is
+preferable to the sharper cold of the early spring. Plenty of woollen
+clothes can then supply the place of heavy fur. Masks, hoods, and so
+on, are still unnecessary; and, when wanted, leather boots can be
+used instead of those made of sail-cloth. Even snow spectacles are
+not needed in the autumn, except after freshly-fallen snow or under a
+cloudy sky, as the land with its dark masses affords rest enough to the
+eye.
+
+A small tent served us as a sleeping apartment. The _general_
+sleeping-sack, which in our spring journey to the north we were obliged
+to use, did not yet exist; each had his own peculiar one. A lamp for
+cooking, twelve bottles of spirit as our only fuel, two breech-loaders
+with cartridges, skates, mountain-shoes, an aneroid barometer, a
+theodolite, and mathematical instruments; bacon, salt, suet, pemmican,
+extract of meat, coffee, Cognac, cocoa, and hard bread, formed our
+store,--a load for five men during a nine days’ sledge journey, which
+we (Copeland, Iversen, Herzberg, Wagner, and myself) undertook late in
+the autumn of 1869, for the purpose of investigating the passage from
+Clavering Island to the conjectured opening into Gael Hamkes Bay, to
+the north of the first-named island, and to penetrate further in the
+direction of Jordan Hill.
+
+On the 27th of October (the day of our leaving the ship) we had daily
+but four hours’ sun; and in a few days this must entirely disappear
+for three long months. We took a southerly direction, traversing half
+the way on skates, until we reached Cape Wynn, whose dark rocky face
+we could distinguish in the darkest Arctic night. The south wind now
+blew stronger; and as we could not get at our warmer clothing for
+the moment, we suffered so much from the moderate cold of 0° Fahr.,
+that, in the beginning of the journey, some of us were in great danger
+of being frozen to death. A group of dolerite pillars on the shore
+southward from Flache Bay, behind which we sheltered ourselves from the
+icy wind after a run of thirteen nautical miles, formed an acceptable
+place of refuge. We crouched in the rifts of the rocks for protection,
+and then pitched our tent,--no easy matter, owing to the difficulty of
+obtaining the stones with which to make it firm. At four p.m. we lay
+down to rest, in order to begin the journey earlier the next day, and
+by forced marches make up for this day’s loss. Towards morning the wind
+dropped, the icy influence of which could be disagreeably felt through
+the tent.
+
+On the 28th of October, at three a.m., favoured by moonlight and calm,
+we continued our journey (5° Fahr.). After two hours we came upon an
+ever-thickening complication of small icebergs and hummocks, which
+forced us to make several détours; and at last left us but with one
+opening to the east, far from our projected goal.
+
+Meanwhile, daylight appeared, and climbing an iceberg we surveyed
+the east. Presently we heard Copeland at no great distance exclaim
+in a voice of alarm, “A bear! a bear!” We hurried forward, and found
+our companion behind a group of high ice-cliffs, in such a state
+of excitement as a hand-to-hand encounter with a bear might well
+warrant. He informed us that he was surprised by it at about fifty
+paces’ distance, that it had broken from a barrier of hummocks and
+had galloped up to within five paces, had then raised itself, and had
+struck him down with both fore-paws. Copeland had had no time to load
+his gun; but as the creature caught his clothes, he swung the butt-end
+of it across its snout. This (and perhaps the noise of our approach)
+had the unexpected effect of putting Master Bruin to flight; and we saw
+the monster a hundred paces off in the swinging gallop peculiar to him,
+looking round every now and then.
+
+This experience served as a lesson to us to keep our weapons loaded
+on the sledge for the future, and to be watchful, especially with a
+circumscribed horizon of view.
+
+In spite of all our efforts to keep to our southerly course, the
+constantly increasing collection of the ice masses forced us to the
+eastward; and at eight a.m., in the latitude of Cape Borlase Warren,
+we stopped at the entrance of Gael Hamkes Bay. We found ourselves
+nearly five miles from the coast in a perfect forest of high jagged
+ice-cliffs, the boundary of which we could not see even from a high
+stand-point. Round about us rose ice-barriers on every side; evidently
+the pack-ice of the previous summer had drifted direct into the bay,
+and had there increased to bergs. They were the same masses which a
+month before had prevented the ship from advancing.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 356._
+
+  ICEBERG NEAR CAPE BORLASE WARREN.]
+
+Some nautical miles to the east a bright smooth surface glittered, to
+all appearance an inviting road; which, however, we could only hope
+to reach by carrying our baggage piecemeal over the chaotic masses;
+besides this, we were not at all sure of being able to reach our goal
+this new way. We were already preparing to undertake this troublesome
+work, when we suddenly heard the grunting and puffing of walruses, and
+saw their sphynx-like bodies emerge from the supposed icy surface--in
+reality a watery mirror. There remained, therefore, nothing for us but
+to retrace our steps for two hours, and seek an outlet along the coast.
+In this we succeeded: the coast offered much that was geologically
+interesting; a scanty intermediate stratum of coal, probably of lias
+formation, and some petrified wood in dolerite may be mentioned.
+
+We proceeded along the shore over slippery ice thrown up by the tide.
+Arrived at the promontory of Borlase Warren, which is a sharp advancing
+group of rocks, we came upon a number of stranded icebergs, amongst
+which we had much trouble in finding a road. We followed the coast,
+which curved sharply to the west and was covered with the remains of
+Esquimaux dwellings, until it became more open, though more and more
+covered with snow; and after a march of twenty nautical miles, we
+encamped for the night at the foot of a mountain north of Cape Mary.
+
+On the 29th of October, at half-past seven a.m., we continued our
+journey westward; the weather was lovely (14° Fahr.). Nothing
+interrupted our march, but an occasional topographical survey. The
+easterly mountain-range of Clavering Island, with precipitous masses
+covered with ice, 3250 to 4875 feet high, lay before us. Even from the
+distance the geological character of this island was unmistakeable. Its
+rocks of granite and gneiss, which also seem to prevail in the interior
+of Greenland, were interspersed to the north with numerous dark streaks
+of basalt, which struck one, even in the distance, by their regularity
+of form and dark colour. Up to the last moment the existence of the
+Fjord which we were seeking seemed doubtful; but as we turned a
+promontory to the south-west of Sattelberg peninsula, we came upon it.
+It stretched in a northerly direction, and then bent to westward, and
+was enclosed, cell-like, by glorious mountain domes.
+
+Our great desire to extend our journey as much as possible could now
+be carried out, if, on the one hand, we made the most of our limited
+_time_, and, on the other, our not less limited _provisions_,
+by agreeing to short rations; we therefore gave up our regular mid-day
+meal. As our stock of spirit was far too small to allow of our melting
+ice for drinking purposes, our thirst became exceedingly troublesome.
+The layer of snow on the thick ice we found interspersed with smooth
+spots, which we crossed upon skates.
+
+Later on, we continually came across parts where the frozen sea-water
+had formed a saline deposit upon the surface of the ice, which made
+our advance much more difficult. It was now dark; and when at five
+o’clock, after marching twenty-two nautical miles in a temperature
+of 9° Fahr., we encamped at the foot of a stony hillock, we were
+delighted by the sight of a lovely Aurora--violet, green, and yellow.
+In unusual intensity it passed from west to east through our zenith.
+It appeared like one single beam, so that involuntarily we were drawn
+to the conclusion that the appearance resembled a flattened lens, or a
+ring, in the centre of which we were exactly placed. Night had spread
+its wings over the comfortless dreariness. The surrounding mountains
+appeared like black, shadowy masses.
+
+The sledge is now freed from its burden,--a much more complicated
+affair than might be supposed; for, though we had only taken the
+merest necessaries, we had to be very careful of the instruments,
+cooking apparatus, climbing-poles, lamp, &c., also the barometer and
+thermometer to read off.
+
+In Europe we generally undress to go to rest. In Arctic regions, on
+the contrary, we generally dress. Each one frees his long beard from
+the clusters of ice which had settled upon it, and brings out his
+reserve stockings or his bear-skin shoes. The feet are thrust into
+the sleeping-sack, and the body follows. The space is so narrow, and
+the party so closely packed, that the pulling-off of boots can only
+be accomplished by sitting on one’s neighbour, and every one must
+inevitably step over or on another at the least movement, and seeking
+for one’s fur gloves necessitates kneeling either upon the face or
+the shins of some one else, thus causing an indignant remonstrance.
+From the spot where the knee rests issues a howl; you start back
+unsuspiciously--knock over the lamp (an uncovered tin dish filled with
+bears’-grease which hung from the gable of the tent by a wire); a flood
+of oil ensues--but who cares for that? But it is dangerous when the
+tent gets on fire--an accident which happened twice on our journey. In
+a moment several square feet of covering, on which the burning spirit
+had been spilt, was in flames; we burnt fur hoods and gloves in trying
+to put it out. The sufferers then drew fur stockings over their hands.
+
+  [Illustration: TENT-QUARTERS.]
+
+The cooking apparatus, filled either with ice or snow, is in full
+activity; the temperature rises rapidly; heavy clouds of smoke fill
+the tent, so that one cannot see one’s hand; a burning candle has
+the appearance of a halo round a moon; a light rain falls from the
+thoroughly wet walls of the tent, which, after becoming steam, at once
+freezes--the dampness of clothes and covering thus augmenting daily.
+
+The satisfying of thirst (that great torment of Arctic sledge journeys)
+by melted ice, and the preparation of the evening meal--cocoa or
+coffee, with a little bread and bacon--had occupied the spirit-lamp
+three-quarters of an hour, causing an atmosphere most trying to the
+eyes, and, from its daily recurrence, creating perfect torture.
+
+The evening meal over (not one would give it up for all the treasures
+of the world), we took a short siesta, the only pleasant time of the
+day. We smoke--the sailors that dreadful shrub called “Camel’s-hair.”
+The day’s events, new discoveries, as well as possible eventualities,
+are discussed; the day-book is closed, and those suffering from
+dysentery take some opium. Then from a locked tin box is taken a bottle
+of rum or brandy, from which we each have two or three spoonfuls. For
+a few minutes conversation brightens, then the pipe is emptied, and we
+bury ourselves in our sleeping-sack.
+
+About nine o’clock on the 30th of October we found ourselves ready to
+start again. We bent our steps westward into the cell-like windings
+of the Sound, which, from its grand scenery, we named the “Tiroler
+Fjord,” the breadth of which was at first seven nautical miles, but
+narrowed suddenly to one nautical mile and a half. Numerous cliffs and
+close-lying ice-fields here caused us much hindrance.
+
+A large promontory of Clavering Island, somewhat resembling the
+“Eiger” in Switzerland, the steep wall of which fell sheer into the
+Fjord, was our next aim; but before we reached it, imposing fields of
+glaciers were visible. We now found ourselves more to the north side
+of Clavering Island. The chief glacier of this valley, the farther end
+of which might be 800 feet above the level of the sea, showed the most
+perfect lateral and central moraines. The height of the tide in the
+Fjord at this spot was from two to three feet.
+
+Our road here was a perfect rocky street, leading us now over a field
+of snow some miles in extent, and then over smooth ice, interspersed
+with spots of snow, which we crossed on skates. After a while this
+became impracticable. We went on in the increasing darkness along the
+north-west strand of the island, and, after travelling twenty nautical
+miles, halted at six p.m. The object of our journey had now been
+proved, and, more than that, we found that the Sound opened into two
+arms running westward.
+
+The west side, which from here we had almost entirely overlooked,
+consisted of the coarse-grained, greyish-yellow granite which had been
+washed from the heights, crumbling easily, and thoroughly percolated by
+the streams running down from the glaciers, at some distance giving one
+the impression of weather-beaten sandstone. This sedimentary formation
+fell five degrees towards the west. The surface was covered with a
+thick growth of birches and willows, and grasses of a few inches high.
+This spot was the richest in vegetation of any I had seen in Greenland;
+and we might therefore count upon the presence of reindeer, which was
+all the more welcome, as the continuation of our journey depended upon
+the success of our hunters.
+
+  [Illustration: London. Sampson Low, Marston, Low & Searle.
+  188 Fleet Street
+
+  Tirol Fjord.]
+
+Whilst Herzberg and Iversen hunted, and Wagner remained to guard the
+tents, Copeland and I started for the middle of the fork, which was
+here from three to five nautical miles broad, in order to find a spot,
+if possible, from which we could get a favourable view of the branches.
+Ice-cliffs in numbers filled it, their light colour striking with a
+glare against the steel-green of the smooth ice-covering of the Fjord.
+To the north and west brown walls, 3000 feet high, rose in imposing
+forms in giant rows, as a background to the glaciers of the Tiroler
+Fjord.
+
+The gentle slopes of Clavering Island were covered with a light green,
+and over it hung long icy tongues and frozen torrents, surmounted
+by the snow-capped main ridge, 4200 to 5250 feet high; and in a
+south-westerly direction, in another arm of the Fjord, we could see a
+rocky island with glaciers about 4200 feet high; this had been landed
+upon from another side by Clavering, and named “Jordan Hill.”
+
+On this journey a dark layer of a variety of conglomerate drew us
+nearly five miles out of our way towards Jordan Hill. From the colour
+we had hoped to find a stratum of coal. After discovering our mistake,
+and retracing our steps, we found that our hunters were busy cutting up
+two nearly white reindeer. We were so hungry that we ate some of the
+meat raw, and carried the legs away to the sledge.
+
+It was half-past three p.m. before we left our resting-place, and, from
+the unexpected increase of our provisions, we determined to sacrifice
+another day in order to explore the background of the Tiroler Fjord.
+
+On the strand of Clavering Island we had collected a quantity of
+drift-wood, and on the south side Clavering had met with Esquimaux; but
+from the presence of the drift-wood we concluded that they were not
+there, as they would have carefully collected it.
+
+On the 1st of November, at half-past six a.m., in the darkness when
+we started for the background of Tiroler Fjord, it was still lovely
+weather (8.5° Fahr.); the end of the Fjord, however, was not visible,
+and for a time we thought that it was connected with Fligely Fjord,
+when a much shorter route would be opened for our return to the ship.
+By nine o’clock (6.8° Fahr.) we had reached the mid-length of the
+Fjord, and stood upon its west bank opposite a beautiful semicircle of
+glaciers, in the centre of which rose a mighty granite colossus. The
+lower end of these glaciers might be about 300 feet above the level of
+the sea.
+
+A dead-white barrier, which from our standing-point appeared to close
+in the Fjord a mile to the north of us, and which in the early dawn of
+the morning we could not understand, we now discovered to be the mighty
+wall of the termination of a glacier. Natural as this discovery was, we
+were taken by surprise, though even in the distance we recognized these
+glaciers as of primary formation.
+
+After an hour and a half’s walking over the smooth surface of the
+Fjord, we came upon an isolated conical rock, surrounded by gigantic
+walls 300 feet high, and upon the opposite bank was a similar isolated
+screen. Behind the same, separated merely by a large bed of rubbish,
+lay a colossal terminal moraine, and over this rose the icy front of
+wildly-shaped glaciers. Scarcely anywhere can the traces of glacier
+formation be so strikingly followed out as on this spot. The surface of
+this rock was perfectly polished, and cut with parallel furrow-shaped
+cavities, with an inclination of eight degrees southward, where a
+local deviation in the rock, agreeing with the inclination of the
+neighbouring glacier, formed a prominency. Parallel with the cavities
+above described ran small furrows an inch deep; thus these polished
+cavities of larger dimensions seem to show us that the glaciers at
+different epochs, and with different degrees of force, flowed down,
+passing lightly in some places over the surface of the rocks, and at
+last resting unevenly on one level, leaving everywhere traces of its
+presence. Lastly, these small rifts and furrows are known to have been
+formed from blocks which the streaming glacier had forced against the
+walls. Remarkable, too, is the upward tendency of the cavities in some
+places as well as the smaller furrows. The same thing is observable in
+those spots where the tenacious bulk of the forward-driving masses of
+the upper portions of the glacier have been hemmed in by projections,
+or rather when, for a short space, it was forced to go upwards. Where
+the smaller inclination of the surface of the rocky cone admitted of
+it, we found it strewn with erratic blocks of a cubic yard in size.
+They were upright, and situated often in the most peculiar places; the
+summit of the rocky cone was also covered with them. At the foot of
+the Fjord walls lay lateral moraines, placed terrace-wise one above
+another. Evidently the large glaciers had long since left these spots.
+Over the frozen road covered with rubbish we reached the terminal
+moraine, 150 feet high, over which the glacier torrents now hung,
+turned to icy giant cataracts. What water-floods must have hurried
+onward to the Fjord when the sun shone bright!
+
+From the height of the terminal moraine ridge the slope of rubbish
+fell forty-six feet over the outer edge of the glacier. The icy stream,
+from its azure colour and its transparency, we named “Pasterze,”
+and the heights above, which, to carry out the analogy, we called
+“Grossglockner,” rose in confused towering groups; though we missed the
+characteristic feature of our Alps, the sharpness of the ice edges.
+This circumstance may be explained by the fact that the ice of the
+Greenland glaciers is not so solid and glassy as ours. It resembles
+more last year’s ice, and for this reason cracks and fissures are not
+so frequent as with us; for a long time the edges, from thaws and
+evaporations, have rounded off; and, lastly, the very formation of the
+ice is not so sharp and defined as in our glaciers. We found the ice so
+smooth that it was with difficulty we reached the heights.
+
+To a certain extent it was from here that we first really overlooked
+the glacier. It was formed from five great tributaries, which were
+partly engulfed on the high plateaus of the mountain range, and sinking
+between the steep walls of the Fjord. Perhaps these gigantic breaches
+in the walls of the Fjord might be partly the result of thousands of
+years’ erosion. More distinctly than anything else, however, did the
+glorious polish on the Hornblend-gneiss and the walls, composed of
+epidote granite, entitle us to assume that at one time the whole of the
+Fjord must have been filled with this Greenland “Pasterze;” for in the
+background it reaches to 720 feet above the level of the sea, and sinks
+towards the exit of the Sound down to 520 feet.
+
+In our Alps primary glaciers end as soon as they come into the region
+of 41° Fahr. mean temperature (Schlagintweit, Physikalische Geographie
+der Alpen); in Greenland, on the contrary, this isothermal line
+nowhere exists, and the reaching the level of the sea and the extent of
+the ice is their only limit.
+
+Furthermore, in our Alps the slightest covering of snow on the summit
+of the glaciers does not fall until the the beginning of September. In
+Greenland, again, this does not happen until a month and a half later.
+Some nautical miles upwards from the mouth of the glacier streams
+in the Fjord the ice was strikingly transparent, light blue, and
+peculiarly smooth. This was evidently fresh-water ice from the falling
+torrents, and turned by degrees into the steel-green saltwater ice.
+
+We now found ourselves 3½° west of the ship; and, in spite of the great
+circuit we had made to the south, we were again in its latitude, as
+shown by an astronomical calculation of Copeland’s. Our provisions now
+consisted mainly of reindeer’s flesh, which caused a dysentery that not
+even opium could assuage. We had, therefore, no choice but to return,
+which we did at four p.m. We took our course from Cape Giesecke, which
+we reached, after a thirteen nautical miles’ tramp, at seven p.m.
+(1° Fahr.) Here we enjoyed the sight of a lovely meteor. For several
+seconds the whole of the Fjord was bathed in one intense carmine light.
+On this day the sun set for us, from our circumscribed horizon, shortly
+before noon, so that it was perfectly dark, when at 7½ p.m. we reached
+our resting-place of the 29th of October (0° Fahr.).
+
+On the 3rd of November, at 7¾ a.m., we continued our journey in a
+southerly direction, from the mouth of the Tiroler Fjord, over a
+monotonous desert of fresh-fallen snow. The temperature had fallen to
+-9° Fahr., by which the working with the theodolite was rendered very
+difficult, for we could scarcely approach it without causing the lenses
+to become coated with moisture. At six p.m., after retracing eighteen
+nautical miles, we reached the halting-place of the 28th of October
+(-11° Fahr.). That night we were kept awake by storm and drifting snow.
+
+We started again on the 4th of November at six a.m. with a light west
+wind (-13° Fahr.), and, after three hours’ march, reached Cape Borlase
+Warren, when, after passing the dense ice-groups, it became daylight.
+The sun did not appear quite above the horizon this day. We rested
+for an hour; the remainder of the spirits provided us with a soup,
+and then we entered the icy labyrinth. In the neighbourhood of Flache
+Bay, however, we found it very unsafe, the last northern storm having
+broken up all the ice, and opened up broad streams of water, which
+were partly again covered with thin ice, that bent under our weight
+like leather. In the meantime it was quite dark; even open water we
+could only distinguish by sounding with the alpenstock. We soon found
+it very difficult to drag the sledge; so we left it behind in a secure
+place on the coast, only taking with us our books and instruments. We
+then followed the line of the coast, but there we met with complicated
+and impassable masses of ice, so we had to return to the treacherous
+ice-field. As with difficulty we were following the road, we were
+suddenly startled by a walrus breaking through the ice close to us.
+We fled as quickly as we could, for any attempt to defend ourselves
+would have been madness. But the walrus swam as quickly under the ice
+after us, breaking through it near us, evidently intending to swim
+in our company. We dispersed as much as possible, springing over the
+ice-crust, through which the alpenstock constantly broke, followed by
+the rustling and flapping caused by the monster. Had any one fallen
+in, it would have been impossible to have pulled him out again.
+Fortunately, near Cape Wynn, a screen of old ice relieved us of our
+pursuer. These creatures can break through ice six inches thick, and
+strike the exact spot where they last saw their enemy.
+
+  [Illustration: YOUNG WALRUS.]
+
+From here to the ship (five to six nautical miles) the ice, being
+thicker, had not suffered from the storm, whilst an intense yellow
+Aurora covered the greater part of the heavens, its brightness
+resembling that of the moon in her first quarter. We reached the winter
+harbour at nine p.m., having traversed twenty-six nautical miles, just
+as they were about to send a sledge after us, being uneasy as to our
+fate.
+
+Two days after the sun set, not to rise again until the spring, and
+frightful snow-storms began.
+
+The passage conjectured by Clavering to exist to the north of the
+island of the same name, the discovery of some Fjords, the enlargement
+of our geographical knowledge of the neighbourhood, the completion of
+its chart, and, lastly, the highly interesting study of the Greenland
+glaciers, were the fruits of this difficult journey of over 200 miles,
+reckoning the distance out and in.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER VIII.
+
+           WINTER NIGHT. NOVEMBER, 1869, TO NEW YEAR’S DAY,
+                               1870.[54]
+
+   Storm and snow-drift.--Boisterous night.--Damage to the
+   observatory.--Snow-wall on the ship.--The cold.--Tidings
+   from East Greenland.--Stormy weather again.--Increase of
+   darkness.--Establishment of a school of navigation.--Fresh
+   storm.--The shortest day.--Damage during the storm.--Force
+   and velocity of the wind.--Magnetic periods.--Celebration of
+   Christmas.--Singing and dancing on Christmas-eve.
+
+
+The sun, that source of all light and life, had left us. The three
+months’ Arctic night had begun. There was enough daylight, however,
+to allow of our working in the open air; the cold too was not very
+great, so that we did not feel the transition much. On the 7th and 8th
+a storm raged surpassing any that we had hitherto felt; but after our
+experience it did not terrify us.
+
+As the men seemed inclined to treat this change in our position too
+lightly, we, estimating the seriousness of the case more justly,
+thought it our duty to notice it in some way, and thus our entrance
+into this winter night was made somewhat solemnly. An arrangement was
+then made by Captain Koldewey settling the daily order of things, and
+on some points giving more stringent directions. Moreover, it was
+fortunate that Mr. Sengstacke had, on the 5th of November, returned
+on board with the sledge left behind by Payer; for the whole of the
+following days there were storms from the north, with thick drifting
+snow, thus putting a stop to all business in the open air. During
+the night the force of the squall seemed to increase, so that by
+the morning it was no longer possible to go on shore; but we hung a
+thermometer against the mainmast, in a place where no local influence
+could be brought to bear upon it, and during the storm it showed
+exactly the same temperature on land as on the ice.
+
+Thus began Sunday, the 7th of November; but the prevailing quiet on
+board from the cessation of all work made the raging of the storm
+without more noticeable. Boreas did not acknowledge the day of rest,
+but gained strength hour by hour, and howled round us without the
+slightest intermission. From time to time there were perfect hurricane
+gusts, causing the ice-bound ship to quiver throughout: such weather we
+had never before experienced. If we ventured beyond the closely-shut
+hatchways on to the deck, we were nearly deafened by the blustering,
+roaring, and crashing with which the wind broke upon the ship and
+howled round it. Conversation was not to be thought of, for the loudest
+word of command could not be heard over the whole ship.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 372._
+
+  ON DECK.]
+
+Looking through the rifts of the tightly-closed opening, one could see
+nothing but the everlasting softly-falling thick masses of fine snowy
+particles. No trace of land; indeed, one could scarcely distinguish
+the next block of ice. It was no wonder, from the increasing violence
+of the storm, that our thoughts, too, should become stormy. What if
+the ship should break away from the ice? Could we then remain on the
+same spot? Land had apparently disappeared. A dreadful squall drove
+the sharp snow in our faces, and, shuddering, we quickly retreated
+under the tent-roof, which bent inwards more and more, the fastenings
+seeming to slacken. The chimney shook; even the mast above, which we
+could see through a slit in the roof, swayed. We feared the tent would
+split up if the storm lasted much longer. And then? then the whole of
+the deck would be swept clean, and we must resign ourselves to remain
+below until the storm had spent itself, and allowed us to make good all
+damage done. And on land? how could we tell whether this furious storm
+had not demolished our provision depôt, torn off the roof, or destroyed
+the chests, &c., and rolled them into the sea?
+
+As we paced the deck on that Sunday morning we were grave, but still
+of good heart; we had done all that lay in our power. On deck it
+looked interesting enough. Through all existing or freshly-made holes,
+through the smallest breaks or rents, and even through the sail-cloth
+itself, the snow had forced its way; the atmosphere was filled with the
+smallest grains and needle-points, which fell on everything on deck,
+soon, in spite of all our trouble, forming a thick covering of snow.
+
+The after-part of the ship presented the worst appearance: here was a
+perfect snow landscape. And in order to get at the provisions we were
+obliged every time to use the shovel, and at the wheel-house the drift
+was from six to seven feet high.
+
+Later, the storm seemed to abate a little, allowing Mr. Sengstacke and
+Dr. Copeland to work their way with much difficulty through the still
+drifting snow to land. The observatory and its roof were still there,
+but they were both, as well as the thermometer-case, full of snow. It
+would have been most interesting could we have ascertained the actual
+force of the storm, as Robinson’s anemometer would give it. But what a
+disaster! the wings had been blown off. Breathless, without any result,
+and most picturesquely snowed over, did the gentlemen return,--and only
+just in time, for the storm rose again with undiminished strength;
+indeed, from nine a.m. until eleven p.m. it seemed trying to outdo
+itself.
+
+We turned up our collars, and waded in our fur boots through the snow,
+looking carefully round on all sides. Everything was fast as yet. But
+the storm seemed to know no end, and at short intervals squall upon
+squall thundered down on to the ship: one could feel the deck quiver
+under one’s feet.
+
+Attentively we listen to the raging concerts, to see if we can
+catch any signs of abatement. Every fresh squall seems to be the
+last, as it rumbles and dies away in the distance. We listen
+anxiously--one--two--three minutes! but again we can distinguish in the
+regular blustering and grumbling another tone, and before we have time
+to consider a fresh, and stronger tempest howls and roars, around us.
+With anxious glances at the threatened tent-roof we leave the deck and
+go below, seat ourselves at the table, and take a book. But reading is
+impossible. It is already late in the evening, and we can take refuge
+in our berths. But sleep will not come. Everything, about us is in a
+constant tremble; the stone and glasses clatter, and now and then a
+stronger shock rouses us from our half-slumber; until at length, as
+the storm lulls by degrees, fatigue conquers, and helps the weary one
+to rest. We commend ourselves to heaven, and sleep.
+
+The following morning (8th November) we convince ourselves, to our
+great joy, that the tent is not split. The heavy squalls had ceased at
+midnight, but a violent storm was still raging; and, though lasting
+more than two whole days, seemed not yet likely to drop, although
+the barometer was rising energetically. Directly after coffee, every
+man goes to work with broom and shovel to get rid of the masses of
+snow that had gathered on deck. The cold is zero (F.), but after the
+inactivity of yesterday we find the air most agreeable.
+
+Not until four p.m. did the snow cease and the storm give over; and by
+six o’clock a most unearthly stillness reigned, and the foul weather
+was over. We felt exactly as one does after standing for a long time
+by a waterfall or a glacier torrent, and then suddenly turning a rocky
+projection, when the roaring is no longer heard--so wonderfully still
+and quiet lay all around us.
+
+The barometer had now reached the unusual height of 30.8 inches. During
+the night the equilibrium of the atmosphere was quite restored, and
+nature lay still and quiet as before; the veil of clouds parted, and
+with the same feelings as at home we greet the rainbow after a heavy
+storm, we watched the red rays of the Northern Lights shoot up in the
+southern sky.
+
+The next day there was plenty of work; our greatest trouble was the
+observatory. Here melancholy discoveries awaited the astronomers.
+
+The whole interior of the building was filled with dense masses
+of snow. Carefully we press through it to the stone on which the
+theodolite stood, covered over: the stone is empty! That was a severe
+blow. But we soon discovered the costly instrument lying on the floor
+quite unharmed. The telescope stand, too, was overturned. We were
+fortunate enough to find Robinson’s wings again; they had not suffered
+much, and Wagner’s clever hands soon succeeded in restoring the useful
+instrument.
+
+The next days were calm, with a clear or slightly clouded atmosphere.
+The outline of the fog to the south was interesting, betokening open
+water, whilst before noon a thin veil hid the southern mainland. Later
+on, stretched at the same height a fog bank, from Walrus Island into
+Clavering Straits, which after a time disappeared. In this expanse
+Captain Koldewey saw open water, when at ten o’clock he went to the
+Germaniaberg to survey the condition of the ice. The line in which the
+ice had been torn asunder went from the south end of Walrus Island,
+through Clavering Straits to the west, past the small island to Cape
+Wynn; from the north end of Walrus Island to Cairn Point, then up the
+shore of our island to the south-east end of Klein Pendulum. South of
+Shannon, however, the old ice lay unaltered. Here we again recognized
+the great importance of Walrus Island, as affording a secure harbour.
+
+In the neighbourhood of land there was but little snow on the ice; and
+on the mountains but little more than formerly. The condition of the
+vegetation had previously led us to the conclusion, which seemed to be
+correct, that the snowfall in winter was but small.
+
+We were now able to make use of the large quantity of fallen snow, as
+it had hardened in the storm and the cold. Where the snow-drifts were
+deep enough, square pieces were cut out and brought to the ship. With
+these a high wall was built adjoining the ice-blocks, the space between
+being filled in with fragments.
+
+From similar snow-stones a screen was built in front of the ventilator
+to keep out the cold. At the exit of the back path, which was twelve
+feet long, and higher than a man’s height, we put the door of the
+wheel-house, thus causing the warmth to be sometimes so intense that
+the snow began to melt and the walls to shrink.
+
+By the second week of November the cold had increased to a mean daily
+temperature of from -2° Fahr. to -13°, reaching a minimum of -16°, a
+temperature which agreed with us in every respect.
+
+This may be attributed to the force of habit; besides which, the cold
+was much more easily borne in a still atmosphere. Our bodies required
+no greater protection than the usual winter clothing; even this was a
+great deal too warm if we were busied in any active work.
+
+In the cabin we mostly took off our coats, and yet we did not require
+fifteen pounds of coal a day to heat our Meidinger stove. Indeed, at
+first, the heat of this stove was our greatest trouble, and it required
+some experience and great care not to allow the temperature to rise
+beyond 68° Fahr.
+
+On the 13th the first large wash was held, and the men were examined
+by the doctor from head to foot, when none of them showed the least
+sign of disease. After this proceeding the expedition clothing (coats,
+trowsers, waistcoats, and woollen underclothing) was given out.
+
+The next day, the first really quiet Sunday, brought a slight
+interruption to the monotony of our daily life. The first number of
+the “East Greenland Gazette” appeared.
+
+We thought that on this point too we ought to follow the example
+of our predecessors, although our prevailing state of mind had as
+yet in no way required such cheering and refreshing. Materials for
+the publication of such a number every fourteen days could never
+be wanting. Unfortunately, a small printing press, given by the
+printing-house at Bremerhaven, had not followed us on board. In order,
+therefore, to have two copies, one for the cabin and one for the
+forecastle, we had to take the trouble to write it. Already on the 10th
+had appeared “Invitation to assist in the publication.” Dr. Pansch was
+appointed editor, and a locked box was hung up, in which every one
+dropped his contribution anonymously.
+
+At last, on Sunday at noon, the first number appeared “with a
+supplement,” sixteen pages in the whole. It contained all sorts of fun,
+some poems, “official proclamations,” and an address to the men by the
+doctor.
+
+That afternoon merriment reigned in both rooms, and in the fore-cabin
+the well known “Volkslieder” were heard in the evening. Well might we
+enjoy this fine still day.
+
+On the 15th, just eight days after the last catastrophe, it again began
+to blow a storm from the north, and that _crescendo_. The storm
+howled and sobbed, the squall crashed and thundered, the tent bent,
+and the poles cracked; dense, wildly-drifting snow without, and fine
+powdery drifts on deck. It is the same mighty spectacle of northern
+nature that we so vividly remembered the week before. And it raged thus
+unabated for quite eighty-one hours; as far as we could ascertain, the
+fall of snow lasted forty-five hours.
+
+Of course the effects were misfortune upon misfortune. The snow walls
+of the observatory were for the most part blown away, and the interior
+snowed up. The snow walls of the ship had suffered too. Worse than
+all was the loss of the “Robinson,” which had again disappeared; and
+this time, in spite of all our search, was not to be found. From the
+direction of the snow-drifts we found that the storm came from the same
+quarter as before.
+
+One thing was very plain to us, namely, that had our ship been larger,
+we could not have hauled it into the creek, and would most likely have
+had to stop on the same spot where Captain Clavering had anchored with
+the Griper, on the south side of the island, near the Esquimaux huts.
+In that case we must inevitably have been torn away with the ice by the
+storm and been destroyed.
+
+We must mention that the temperature rose on the 18th to 16° Fahr.;
+the consequence of which was, that the screen on deck began to thaw
+considerably, sending much wet into the cabin. The following day,
+too, the temperature remained moderate, and even rose to 11.75°. To
+our feelings this “warmth” was anything but agreeable; it forced us,
+hardened as we were, when working in the snow, to relieve ourselves of
+nearly all clothing but our shirts.
+
+On the 21st (Sunday) the second number of our paper appeared, as
+rich in contents, and with much that was interesting and funny. The
+following is an example of the official part:--
+
+                               REWARD!!!
+
+   Whoever finds the body of Robinson (Crusoe), who has
+   disappeared from his island, shall receive a reward of one
+   bottle of wine and one dozen of cigars. Many may compete for
+   this prize at the same time.
+
+   Given from our winter quarters, Clavering Straits, Nov. 10.
+
+                                                   C. KOLDEWEY.
+
+The fine weather of the next days facilitated repairs of the damage
+done by the storm. The observatories received a new and thicker coating
+of snow, which sloped up to the roof, by which the whole obtained a
+uniform appearance; over this we poured water, which formed a crust of
+ice, apparently strong enough to defy any storm.
+
+Noteworthy now was the increase of darkness. On the 22nd of November,
+at noon, all thermometers had to be read by the lamp; and on the 23rd,
+at noon, stars of the second magnitude (for example, the polar-star)
+could be distinctly seen. The whole morning the southern horizon
+from Walrus Island to Cape Borlase Warren was yellowish-red; and
+this twilight showed strong against the black line of open water. At
+the same time there was a strong refraction of the rays, and in the
+atmosphere appeared a glimmering undulating motion from west to east.
+
+The evenings and nights too were beautiful; the moon shone without
+setting from the 19th to the 25th. At noon we still saw its pale light,
+and at night it was frequently surrounded with a halo, accompanied by a
+_paraselene_ or mock moon.
+
+The Northern Lights again appeared in all their beauty, and when the
+magnetic observatory was in order, observations upon the fluctuation
+of the declination of the pole were made in connexion with notices upon
+the rapidly changing appearance of the Aurora. This work, upon which,
+and more especially upon the scientific work during the winter, a
+glance will be taken in the next chapters, was often difficult enough,
+as it had to be written down in the open air by the light of a lamp for
+hours together. The captain made use of the clear evenings to take a
+number of lunar calculations. The temperature and the thickness of the
+ice were also measured. The latter, at some distance from the ship, was
+thirty-six and a half English inches.
+
+Thus our daily life passed pretty regularly, one day being much as
+another. Scientific work we had in plenty. Our leisure hours were spent
+agreeably in reading, playing at chess, and conversation.
+
+One great evil we still had to contend with was the small room, and
+especially the small table, which we had to share. In any great
+zoological work, this was so considerable that Dr. Pansch had to make
+use of the night hours, when all but the watch had gone to rest.
+
+A decided change had now taken place in the life of the men by the
+introduction of a navigation school. The captain’s suggestion for this
+object was received with great approbation; indeed, every one wanted
+to take a part in it. But on the 25th the school was opened with four
+scholars: P. Iversen, P. Ellinger, Th. Klentzer, and G. Herzberg.
+The captain taught navigation, Dr. Börgen undertook geography and
+astronomy, Dr. Copeland natural science.
+
+An hour was given every day, and the men had enough to do to get
+through the work and impress it upon their minds; but they did it with
+great eagerness, and seldom in a forecastle was so much heard of plus
+and minus, of squares and square roots as with us on the Germania.
+
+Christmas month was approaching, and the first week passed without any
+particular occurrence. The mean daily temperature remained moderate,
+14° to -4° Fahr. The wind frequently blew violently from the north, and
+on the 4th brought heavy drifting snow. To the south and south-east we
+heard from time to time crashing and roaring, as of water and ice, but
+we were spared a real storm.
+
+On the 3rd of December, in the afternoon, we were suddenly alarmed by
+a loud and violent breaking and cracking the whole length of the ship,
+followed by a slight shock. Hurrying out to see the cause, we soon
+found that the snow-wall on the port side had loosened itself from the
+ship and had sunk some inches against it, in consequence of which it
+was forced to the starboard side, and this crooked position increased
+later, and was at once perceptible in the cabin. The ice behind it
+showed some cracks and fissures, one of which reached to the land. The
+stern-post, however, of the Germania seemed not to have suffered; the
+rudder and the rudder-pin were uninjured. It seemed that the colossal
+burden of the snow masses heaped on the starboard side had caused the
+ice to sink, and, giving way, had loosened the wall from the ship.
+
+Weeks passed without any unusual interruption. Everything went its
+usual way, the increasing darkness of the days turning our thoughts to
+Christmas and the new year.
+
+But not very considerately did the old one intend to take leave of us.
+After some days of unsettled weather, on the 10th of December came an
+unsteady north wind, alternating with drifting snow, now rising to a
+storm, and now quite dying away. At the same time one could hear the
+mighty roaring and howling of the water and ice. From the 8th to the
+15th it raged thus continually, when the mean force of the wind was
+thirty miles an hour. Without, little could be done; and at noon, even
+on deck, nothing could be distinctly seen without a lamp.
+
+On the 16th it began suddenly to rage from the north so violently that
+in from three to four hours the “Robinson” had marked no less than
+sixty-three English miles. And this was the beginning of the worst and
+most lasting storm experienced. On the evening of the 16th it abated a
+little, so that the next morning we could with some trouble return to
+observations on land; but in the evening the wind roared with redoubled
+fury. In the later hours its speed was from sixty-five to sixty-seven
+English miles, and that of the real storm of course much greater.
+
+It was Dr. Börgen who took these two readings at the observatory; and
+indeed that was no trifle. On land he was once taken bodily up and
+thrown at least ten paces forward, and not without great exertion did
+he reach the guiding rope, and then on his way to the ship he was
+lifted up several times and thrown aside. Our greatest help, indeed
+our actual preservation in such cases, was the row of ice-blocks with
+the rope stretched along it; for while the heavy drifting snow hid
+everything within a few paces, the rushing wind stopped the play of
+the lungs, and seemed to paralyze the brain, and all the attention and
+muscular power had to be directed to the keeping of one’s feet. Then it
+is almost impossible for the lonely wanderer to keep in one decided
+direction. Beaten and overpowered by the storm, the strongest man will
+soon in such a case be lost. Two of our men, having strayed far to the
+north, we should probably never have seen again had they not struck
+upon the ship’s anchor and thus retraced their steps.
+
+Besides, such attempts were never carried to rashness. On the following
+stormy days, three different times we felt our way to land by the rope,
+but from the thickness of the falling snow dared not venture to let
+it go and mount. The danger of going the wrong way was so imminent in
+such cases that we always stood on the steps, in order to help, if
+necessary, as far as was possible. With the lantern in hand we tapped
+around on deck in the deep snow. The hurricane raged round the tent, so
+that the props cracked and the cordage creaked; mighty fiends seemed
+let loose upon us, and at one time we were seriously afraid for the
+preservation of our tent-roof.
+
+The 18th dawned and ended: the storm raged on, and squall upon squall
+rushed over the ship without intermission or abatement; the falling
+snow being so dense that we could not see six steps before us.
+
+The 19th was the same--the storm howled and raged unchanged, but
+we still lay firm in the ice. But for how long--who could tell?
+Destruction might be near, and perhaps the open water already splashing
+beneath us.
+
+The long inactivity began to tell upon us. The food no longer tasted as
+usual, we had no heart to work, and here and there were signs of bad
+temper. In the forecastle something had happened. The snow-wall must
+have become relaxed, for on one side the cold wind whistled through
+the cracks of the planks, covering the cabin walls with ice. It cost us
+a whole day’s work to shut out the unwelcome guest.
+
+To get some little motion we paced the deck by the melancholy light of
+a lantern; but that did not last long. The everlasting rushing noise
+deafened one, and the tent seemed to crush us, though spanned to its
+uttermost. In a few minutes we were thickly covered with snow, and had
+to be scraped down so as not to carry too much wet below.
+
+On the 20th matters somewhat improved. The astronomers were in despair;
+for the 21st was a magnetic period, and the whole twenty-four hours
+must be passed in the observatory. But everything has an end, even an
+East Greenland winter’s storm. Towards evening we could get to land
+comfortably without danger, and the astronomers were able to arrange
+the instruments and the observatory to their satisfaction.
+
+The icy case had lasted well this time; only through a few small holes
+had the snow penetrated. In the observatory, however, there was more.
+The “Robinson” was again wingless; the bar on which the wings worked
+was much worn and bent to the south. The provision depôt was unharmed.
+We, however, found the flood-pole broken and frozen firm in the thick
+ice, and the snow-walls of the ship were partly blown away, and partly
+eaten away, and riddled with holes.
+
+But how had the storm dealt with the ice? this we must ascertain next.
+And soon, through the pale twilight, to the south we saw a dark strip
+shining--the open water. It must have come nearer to us than the last
+time; that was evident. We were, however, astonished to find that it
+was no longer 300 paces distant from the ship. It reached nearly to
+the observatory, and, upon trying to get to Cairn Point, we could not
+reach it; the ice was here torn into loose fragments. How about the
+ice-dam by Walrus Island, so important for our safety? We could not
+distinctly see whether it had been broken through, or whether it was
+still standing.
+
+It was with peculiar feelings that on the 21st--both the shortest and
+the darkest day--we walked about on the ice and on the neighbouring
+land. At home, after such a convulsion of nature, everything bears the
+stamp of destruction; here nothing showed traces of the fury of the
+elements but the large and small snow-drifts. White and still all lay
+around, the polished walls of rock rising dark above them; gloomy and
+almost foggy was the atmosphere. After the nearly ten days’ roar of the
+storm this quiet had in it something refreshing; but, in spite of that,
+we this day felt the deep melancholy impress of the Arctic night. In
+troubled, unsteady twilight lay the landscape, so that we could only
+see a few steps before us, and could scarcely see to read fine print. A
+faint light under the dark clouds in the south was the only sign of day.
+
+In looking back upon the storm, and reckoning the dates, we first
+realized what a mighty effort of nature it had been. Without reckoning
+the forerunners, the real storm had raged 103 hours, blowing with
+a mean strength on Beaufort’s scale[55] of more than 9. If we take
+the rate during these 103 hours to be sixty miles (= fifteen German
+miles[56]) per hour, and if it had continued straight in a southerly
+direction, this storm would not only have reached the equator, but have
+gone far beyond it even to the latitude of the south point of Africa;
+thus traversing more than a quarter of the earth’s circumference.
+Another peculiarity of this storm was, that, contrary to the sudden
+rising of the former, it seemed to increase by long preparatory stages.
+The barometer fell slowly, though not unusually low. The sky, too, at
+the beginning was perfectly clear; but most striking was the fact that
+the temperature remained low, -4° to -11° Fahr., until the end of the
+storm, when it rose by degrees.
+
+The 21st of December, as has been said, was a magnetic period. The
+astronomers had prepared the room and the instruments at the right
+time, and the twenty-four hours of minute observation began. Two hours’
+relief was allowed. The going backwards and forwards, the eating and
+drinking through the night, and the hot can of coffee on the stove all
+night was a welcome change from the uniformity of our life.
+
+Thus Christmas-time drew near. That the beautiful festival should
+be kept was understood, small gifts being prepared on all sides for
+the purpose. We were the first Germans who had wintered here, and so
+it was clear to all that the Christmas-tree must not be wanting on
+the Germania. This was an unavailing wish, for fir-trees do not grow
+in Greenland. But Nature seemed to take pity on us in our distress;
+sparing as her growth is, she offered us a helping hand and some fresh
+green for our Christmas-tree. The stalks of the Andromeda retain their
+leaves in winter, which, although of a dark greenish-brown, are still
+fresh. The carpenter made a pedestal, on which stood a three-feet stem,
+with the chief branches representing a fir-tree. These were covered
+with the shoots of the Andromeda, and smaller sticks were fastened on
+to resemble the natural branches. In this way we obtained a “fir-tree”
+far surpassing our expectations. The overhanging slope of Germaniaberg
+was one of the few spots where the plant grew plentifully; our botanist
+knew how to find the spot under the snow, and in the dark noontide hour
+the plants were raked up and brought home triumphantly.
+
+The after-cabin was warmed, and here the fir-tree was put together.
+The men persevered with the work, and there was not one among them but
+put some finishing touches to it; small wax-lights and golden-nuts
+were not wanting. We sat in the small room by a dimly-burning lamp;
+cheerful conversation went round, and pleasanter Christmas enjoyment
+than we had could not well be found. At four o’clock every one was to
+leave the cabin. The walls were decorated with flags, near the sofa
+the finest foxes’ skins were hung up, and the table by the help of
+some chests lengthened as far as the mast. By six all was ready. The
+ship’s bell gave the summons; under the ventilator was a small coloured
+transparency, and from the forecastle a Christmas hymn rose. Then all
+entered the cabin and ranged themselves round the table.
+
+German Christmas in East Greenland ice! There stood the powerful forms
+of big “children,” serious but cheerful, and the finest Christmas-tree
+rose on deck, glittering with lights and gold and silver; and on the
+fresh white table-cloth lay the plates with the gifts upon them; they
+were but trifling things, but they gave much pleasure: small books,
+letter-cases, and so on. Near the tree lay a large harmonica “for the
+men;” this, with some balls of cord, in which were enclosed different
+small things, was a present from the ladies of Kiel. On the other side
+stood the complete model of a full-rigged ship, just finished by P.
+Iversen.
+
+Somewhat later followed a hot supper, in which the cook astonished us
+with some delightful cakes. Healths were drunk in foaming wine of the
+Neckar, and at dessert a large chest, which had taken its place in the
+cabin since yesterday, was opened. It contained a valuable present
+from Mainz: a number of bottles of excellent Rhine wine. You should
+have seen the men of the Germania! Heart and mind were in a glow, they
+joked and chattered, speeches were made and healths drunk, and the ship
+resounded with many a hearty cheer. We thought of our loved ones at
+home, our brothers on the Hansa, and our ever dear country!
+
+But we still wanted a song. Each one had his songbook, a gift from the
+publisher, G. Westermann, and--were we not Germans, “Vereint zur frohen
+Stunde”? So it was not long before we had a song. Was it a warning that
+the “Wacht am Rhein” should resound in the Arctic night?
+
+As it was a wonderfully warm, soft air, the suggestion of a dance on
+the ice received universal approbation. Soon we were dancing merrily
+on the white snow, whilst the boatman, wrapped in a reindeer’s skin,
+played the new harmonica with an artist’s hand.
+
+More bottles were opened, more healths drunk, and midnight had passed
+before we retired to rest.
+
+The last week in the year passed without any particular event. Twice
+Boreas visited us again, but he seemed to have lost his energy, for
+he dropped after about ten hours, causing no further disturbance. The
+temperature remained high the whole time, and on the 27th even reached
+28° Fahr.
+
+Thus the year came to an end, and with brighter expectations could we
+look forward to the future.
+
+St. Silvester’s Eve[57] passed in the usual manner; we sat cheerfully
+together over our wine, amusing ourselves with the innocent game of
+pouring the lead, and so on, while awaiting the twelfth hour, when
+with the clinking of the glasses we expressed reciprocal wishes for
+the fulfilment of our hopes and for the success of our expedition.
+The astronomers had calculated when the midnight hour would reach the
+different places in Germany; so each individual had a particular touch
+of the glasses, and “To what we love best” at home. The kind givers
+were not forgotten, nor our comrades of the Hansa, whom we believed had
+long since run into the Weser.
+
+Quickly the hours passed, and one after the other sought his hard
+couch.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER IX.
+
+                   FIRST MONTH OF THE YEAR 1870.[58]
+
+   Lethargy.--The Arctic winter.--Mid-day twilight.--Meteorological
+   observations.--Plans for spring travelling.--Fur
+   dresses.--Klentzer pursued by a bear.--The ship on
+   fire.--Snowdrift.--Promise of the sun’s reappearance.--Sunrise
+   on 3rd February.--Northern Lights.--Hunting.--The days
+   lengthen.--Low temperature.--Spring-tide.--The ship
+   aground.--Börgen wounded by a bear.
+
+
+The new year had now begun, and we had greeted it with new thoughts,
+new plans and hopes. Nearly six months had we already spent on the
+coast--a short time judging from results--but long enough, with the
+help of the experience gained, to prepare for the promised excursions
+in the coming summer. Half of the dreaded Arctic night was over,
+without either body or mind being materially influenced by it; and if
+the coldest time still lay before us, it had lost its terrors.
+
+The holidays were faithfully kept as a period of rest. The whole of
+us experienced great weariness, and, upon giving way to it, we could
+plainly see, what every one knew long since, that in Arctic regions one
+can take any amount of sleep.
+
+On the other hand, everything went on regularly. A new number of the
+paper appeared on Sunday, which, by its diminutive size, showed the
+decrease of material.
+
+Mr. Tramnitz and Dr. Copeland went hunting, and brought home four
+ptarmigan, objects as welcome to the unaccustomed stomach as to the
+long-idle hands of the zoologists. The collection was increased by a
+few skins, and examinations made as to the food of these native birds
+of the extreme north. The crops of all were full, and were about the
+size of a boy’s fist. The contents consisted chiefly of young willow
+shoots, only here and there by chance was a little moss, or a few
+leaves and dry sprouts of a species of saxifrage and other shrubs. Thus
+while in summer, as we have seen, the ptarmigan feeds on fresh herbs
+and seeds, which it finds on the mountains, in winter time it confines
+itself to the willow, which is easily obtainable.
+
+The 3rd of January was still a dark, foggy day; truly there is
+something very solemn in this universal silence, this unbroken sleep
+of organic nature. “The stillness of an Arctic winter,” writes First
+Lieutenant Payer, “has something awful about it; the gloomy shade under
+which life passes, without one charm, is burdensome to the spirit.
+Every sound of creation is silenced; the whispering and gurgling of the
+springs and brooks have died away; the breaking of the waves is mute;
+the waterfall stands motionless against the cold wall of rock; the
+plants, choked under their covering of snow, seem for ever destroyed.
+Animals that had migrated, either to the outer edge of the pack-ice
+or to milder latitudes, have withdrawn to the interior or begun their
+winter sleep. No faint sunshine colours the heights, shedding its beams
+on the glistening masses of ice on the golden mirror of the sea. Forms
+and colours are tinged with gloom; a universal winding-sheet enwraps
+every form of nature, over which broods the icy night; the stars,
+twinkling brightly, shed their cold light; ghost-like stand out the
+shadowy snowy walls of the mountains from the black edge of the rock;
+sullenly rise the crested rocks in the night; snow-flakes glide in
+noiseless monotony on to the still cold earth, and on to the ice-deck,
+which has bound our ship for months. The deck is laden with snow; masts
+and yards stretch their coal-black arms to heaven; frost hangs to the
+ropes in tender crystal webs; the helm is buried under blocks of ice.”
+We easily lose ourselves in a feeling of utter desertion in the midst
+of these lifeless surroundings, and the heavy leaden-grey of the sky
+is reflected in our painfully-oppressed spirits. One must be more than
+mortal not to be occasionally overcome by such feelings, though with us
+they were but of short duration; besides which, the time of perpetual
+darkness was quickly drawing to a close. That we proved the next day,
+when in -22° we were surrounded by a bright light sky, with numerous
+and beautiful pictures of Arctic light. The noonday twilight was so
+strong that for an hour we fancied it was really daylight, and on the
+10th, at seven a.m., the beginning of dawn in the eastern sky proved
+it to be correct. This fine, clear weather lasted to the 16th, and was
+highly acceptable to the astronomers: the cold, however, increased, and
+the thermometer sank to -26.50° Fahr.
+
+It was already settled that, as soon as practicable--we thought about
+the beginning of March--our great journey should begin, geography
+being its main object, by following the coast-line northward, thus
+accomplishing our chief task, in the instructions of the expedition,
+on the ice, as with the ship it had been proved to be unsuccessful.
+
+For this journey, which it need not be said was under Captain
+Koldewey’s direction, eight men were necessary. We considered that we
+might dispense with the necessity of establishing provision-stores,
+and therefore decided that a second sledge, under Mr. Sengstacke’s
+direction, should accompany them for some days on their journey, and
+somewhat later the circuit of the astronomers would begin, having
+geodetical measurements for their object, and not until after the
+return from the north should any more sledge journeys be arranged for
+the exploration of the interior of Greenland. The great difficulty
+of all these undertakings we could not disguise from ourselves. Not
+only was the want of dogs greatly felt, but numbers of other matters
+necessary for winter sledging.
+
+On the ship, as has been already said, reigned cheerfulness and
+unwearied activity; there was tailoring and shoemaking, carpentering
+and smiths’ work going on from morning till night. We next went
+to work upon the clothing. For the degree of cold we had hitherto
+experienced, nothing was better than the woollen things we had, but
+only when the air was quiet; for in a high wind the body, in spite
+of all motion, became stiff and cold in a very short time. On our
+contemplated journey, however, we must be in a position to brave all
+weathers, so out came the fur. As the long fur-coats, reaching to the
+feet, were quite useless, they were taken to pieces, and fresh, short,
+tight-fitting coats lined with wool were made. The fur hoods remained
+unaltered; the boots, however, were thrown aside, as they so soon get
+hard and uncomfortable. These were replaced by an irregular manufacture
+composed of sail-cloth lined with woollen stuff, with leathern soles,
+which we had on board. Then the tent must be worked at and enlarged in
+proportion; the fur sacks also and coverings for our sleeping-place
+had to be sewn. We need scarcely say that the school of navigation was
+carried on as industriously as ever.
+
+On the 10th, as in the morning twilight our engineer, who was entrusted
+with the melting apparatus, was returning alone with the sledge,
+heavily burdened with snow, from the Germaniaberg to the ship--he
+looked round him, and suddenly saw, at a little distance, a bear
+slowly following him. Struck with terror, he hastily left the sledge
+and hurried forward to the ship, the creature following him for some
+distance, and then turning back. Scarcely had the fact transpired when,
+in a moment, all were in motion, and soon a number of well-armed forms
+were hurrying in all directions to the land--the irresistible charm of
+bear-hunting urging them on. But Bruin did not seem inclined to face
+our heroes, and, after a short hour, the hunters returned disappointed.
+
+Thus this bear adventure ended as happily as all former ones had
+done. But much more serious was the position into which, a short time
+afterwards, one of our sailors was betrayed. On the morning of the
+13th, Theodor Klentzer, during the time the men were busied without,
+or were obliged to take their daily walk, climbed the Germaniaberg
+to view the landscape in the increasing mid-day light. Reaching the
+top, he seated himself on a rock, and sang a song in the still air.
+As he looked behind him, however, he saw, not many steps off, a huge
+bear, which with great gravity was watching the stranger. Now to our
+“Theodor,” who was as quiet and decided a man as he was powerful,
+this would, under other circumstances, have been nothing; for the bear
+stood wonderfully well for a shot, and could not easily be missed, but
+Klentzer was totally unarmed; not having even a knife! Incredible! is
+it not? But as Lieut. Payer writes, “the bears always come when one has
+forgotten all about them.”
+
+Thus Klentzer saw himself unarmed and alone, far from his companions,
+and close to the bear. Flight is the only, though a doubtful, chance
+of safety, and the audacious thought struck him of plunging down the
+steep side of the glacier; but he chose the softer side-slope, and
+began to hurry down the mountain. Upon looking back, after a time, he
+perceived the great bear trotting behind him at a little distance,
+like a great dog. Thus they descended the mountain for some time. If
+Klentzer halted, so did the bear; when he went on, the bear followed
+slowly; if he began to run, the bear did the same. Thus the two had
+gone some distance, and Klentzer thought seriously of saving himself,
+as the bear, finding the chase somewhat wearisome, might press close
+upon his heels. He therefore uttered a loud shout, but the bear, only
+disconcerted for a moment, seemed to get more angry and approached
+quicker, so that he seemed to feel the hot breath of the monster. At
+this dreadful moment--and it was most likely his preservation--he
+remembered the stories he had heard, and, while running, pulled off his
+jacket, throwing it behind him. And see! the trick answers: the bear
+stops and begins to examine the jacket. Klentzer gains courage, rushes
+on down the mountain, sending out a shout for help, which resounds
+through the silent region. But soon the bear is again at his heels, and
+he must throw away cap and waistcoat, by which he gains a little. Now
+Klentzer sees help approaching--several friends hurrying over the ice.
+Collecting his last strength, he shouts and runs on. But help seems in
+vain, for the pursuer hurries too, and he is obliged to take the last
+thing he has, his shawl, which he throws exactly over the monster’s
+snout, who, more excited still by renewed shouting, throws it back
+again contemptuously with a toss of the head, and presses forward upon
+the defenceless man, who feels his cold black snout touch his hand.
+Klentzer now gave himself up for lost; he could do no more; but the
+wonderful thought struck him of fastening up the bear’s throat with
+the leathern belt which he wore round his body. Fixedly he stared into
+the merciless eyes of the beast--one short moment of doubt--the bear
+was startled, his attention seemed drawn aside, and the next moment
+he was off at a gallop. The shouts of the many hurrying to the rescue
+had evidently frightened him. Klentzer was saved by a miracle. We had
+all hurried out just as we sat below, without coats or caps--indeed,
+some were in their stockings. The terrified creature fled on to the
+ice, where he received a cross-fire, then turned hither and thither,
+and made for Cairn Point. Some of the bullets must have struck him,
+for he collapsed, and we thought it was all over. But he rallied the
+next moment, and climbed the steep bank with huge strides, and, leaving
+traces of blood on the open ice, hurried to the sea. Glad and thankful,
+our full number were soon seated at the mid-day meal, praising a good
+Providence who had saved our brave companion from death. From the
+effects of this day several suffered slightly from pains in the chest,
+and Mr. Sengstacke and P. Iversen had large frost-blisters on their
+feet. No wonder, when they had run about in stockinged feet for a whole
+hour and a half!
+
+But a danger of quite another sort threatened us--fire on board!
+
+On the 11th, when, as usual, all were in the cabin engaged in reading
+and smoking, some having already sought their berths, about a quarter
+to nine a slight smell of burning at the lower end of the cabin was
+perceived. It seemed to spring from the stove, in the fender of which
+things often fell and smouldered. But as Dr. Copeland went at nine
+o’clock to the meteorological reading, he noticed a stronger smell
+and smoke upon the stairs, and, hurrying on deck, was met by a thick
+vapour. There could no longer be any doubt; there was fire somewhere,
+and the fireplace in the after-cabin must be the place, as it had been
+heated for the tailoring. Quickly all hands were to the fore; buckets
+and vessels of all kinds were brought out; and while some fetched water
+from the tide-hole, others pulled off the top and saw at once the white
+flames quivering through the smoke. Some few pails of water soon put
+it out, and in about a quarter of an hour all was over. Deck-beams and
+deck-planks were burnt, and charts were smoking; had not help come so
+speedily, the fire would have burnt through to the coal-bunkers.
+
+After this interruption, everything resumed its usual course, and on
+the 18th the travelling-tent was raised for trial. The weather remained
+pretty steady to the end of the month. Clear skies alternated with
+cloudy atmospheres, and from time to time Boreas sought us, though only
+for a short spell of fury. On the 17th a great deal of snow fell with
+stormy weather, so that for the first time the land was quite white,
+and the astronomers had the great pleasure of once more clearing the
+observatory. The 27th was the same, when a raging snow-storm lasted
+several hours. It was a good thing for us that we could tell the
+approach of such storms beforehand; the quick over-casting of the
+heavens, the light south wind, the rising of the thermometer, and the
+falling of the barometer, never left us in doubt as to what to expect,
+and we always had time for preparations.
+
+An observation which we had made several times in snow-drifting
+deserves to be mentioned. For instance, when out in such strong
+snow-drifts, one feels completely suffocated, as if the snow held back
+the breath by force, and pierced deep into the lungs. This feeling is
+of course stronger when facing the wind; it is even sensibly felt when
+the wind is at the back. Wind without snow-drift has not this effect.
+So striking was this that it was often and on all sides remarked.
+Through these almost uninterrupted storms our scientific work was
+still carried on as far as possible. This was mainly astronomical
+and magnetic; but others, too, were begun; for instance--experiments
+upon the speed of sound. The thickness of the ice at this time (20th
+January) measured fifty-three English inches. The zoological collection
+obtained an increase from some small crabs (_Copepodæ_), which
+were caught in the tide-hole, and were found to be the source of the
+shining we had so often observed. This was indeed an interesting
+appearance. When the ice in the tide-hole was removed, it glistened in
+many places like phosphorus, and then slowly disappeared. These small
+crabs were tumbling about in water one degree below the freezing-point,
+nearly under the much colder ice, and when they were taken out with the
+surrounding ice, and it was melted in the cabin, they soon died.
+
+Thus the month of January drew to a close. The daylight grew longer
+and more intense. The great epoch of the reappearing of the sun, the
+3rd of February (as the astronomers had calculated), came nearer and
+nearer, and our expectation rose from day to day.
+
+Since the 30th of January the astronomers had gone daily to the
+Hasenberg to convince themselves whether their calculations were
+correct, or whether, perhaps, a particularly strong refraction, owing
+to the state of the atmosphere, would hasten the appearance of the sun
+by some days.
+
+At last the 3rd of February had arrived, and long before noon all were
+on the look-out. Dr. Börgen was in the observatory, and Dr. Copeland
+and Captain Koldewey had climbed the Germaniaberg. It was with very
+solemn feelings that we awaited the appearance of the sun. Our thoughts
+flew over the sunless three months, as we contemplated the shadowless
+objects around, but our eyes turned again instinctively to the south,
+where it was ever getting lighter and lighter. To our great joy the
+horizon here was quite clear; only a few clouds stood in the heavens.
+These added to the beauty of the scene, for they were of the brightest
+red and yellow.
+
+The noontide hour approached. Full of expectation and curiosity, the
+men appeared from time to time on the stairs to look for the sun; some
+mounted the topmast, to enjoy the pleasure somewhat sooner. Attentively
+we looked around, for at such a time nothing should escape one. The
+southern horizon grew ever brighter, and at last, almost blinded, we
+had to turn away our eyes; but the glance rests in the south-west
+at first, doubtful and questioning, and then in joyous certainty we
+shout to one another, “There it is!” The Sattelberg already lies in
+the sunshine! And indeed in faint reddish, but unmistakable sunshine
+does this height glitter above the other deeply-shaded mountains. More
+decided grows the light now, and in a short time the same beautiful
+spectacle is repeated on the Hasenberg and the other chief heights of
+the island, and from them it descends to the plains; and as we look
+around, the resuscitated orb of day shines full upon us.
+
+Moved to the depths of our hearts, we thought to look our full upon
+the sun, but the long-unseen light was blinding, the eyes could not
+bear it, and we were compelled to have protecting-glasses before we
+could tell whether the sun’s disc was as yet really above the horizon.
+Nevertheless, its influence was strong enough, as we turned our backs
+to it, to show the whole island and the near mainland in complete
+daylight. It was a joyous and a glorious sight. Invigorating were
+the effects of its first rays as they fell upon us, as were also the
+effects upon the landscape. For as, until now, the whole mountain
+panorama lay in one uniform coloured dark mass, except now and then, in
+the bright moonlight, when some glaring lights and shades stood out,
+and even the brightest twilight could scarcely individualize an object,
+now every part and outline of the mountain-chain stood prominently
+forward; the projections were elevated, and the distant points receded;
+and this now beautiful living landscape was flooded with the softest
+colours--red, violet, blue, and green in all shades--according to
+the strength of the light, the kind of ground, and the nature of the
+surroundings. But our pleasure was destined to be of short duration,
+for the sun soon disappeared again behind the jagged horizon of ice,
+and the gloomy uniform greyish-blue shadows descended one after the
+other on the wintry landscape.
+
+We must not forget to mention that the first reappearance of the sun
+was accompanied by two very faint and not easily detected parhelia.
+What would most strike a scientific mind was the wonderful prismatic
+colours of the clouds, the easternmost of which, lying towards that
+side of Walrus Island, rose above the very highest of its peaks. It was
+peculiar that, however distinctly we could see these parhelia, a person
+looking directly above another’s head could not with all his endeavours
+perceive them. The air, which at seven a.m. was this day -8.95°, cooled
+considerably later, and at noon the thermometer fell to -22.67°.
+
+The new sunshine afforded us for the first time an uninterrupted
+view over the icy sea. From Germaniaberg one could see how during
+this winter the ice had been loosened almost close to the coast from
+Klein-Pendulum to Flache Bay. To the extent of from one to three
+nautical miles along the land lay the young ice, which might be torn
+up by the first storm. Beyond lay the pack-ice--a broad, unbounded,
+snow-covered mass, separated, as far as the eye could reach, by neither
+fissure nor interval.
+
+A few fine, bright days now followed one another with a temperature of
+from -4° to -22° Fahr. We enjoyed the light of the newly-risen sun. The
+twilight really lengthened the days, and through the period of darkness
+the Northern Lights shot athwart the heavens, displaying in the clear
+atmosphere a spectacle of rare beauty. But this peaceful scene could
+not last, and on the 5th there were distinct signs of the waking of
+Boreas. Over the ice lay a slight fog, and the sky clouded quickly
+from the south. More distinctly than ever did the well-known roaring
+reach us, and rising along the stretch of the sea were thick columns
+and clouds of frosty vapour, showing that the icy covering was already
+broken. This was a particularly interesting sight. Dr. Copeland, who
+was on a high mountain on the island at this time, saw the ice by
+Klein-Pendulum break up and drift away. Caught on the heights by the
+north wind, he was obliged to make the best of his way back on account
+of the intense cold, whilst below in the harbour a calm reigned for
+a long time, or a light breeze blew from the south or south-west.
+About noon a few gusts came through from the north, where it had been
+raging since early morning--at first in a clear sky, then in a thick
+atmosphere and snow-drift. This storm, too, which blew violently by the
+hour together, lasted a long time, quite fifty hours, until suddenly,
+as if by a higher command, it fell, and there was a perfect calm. The
+raging of the ice, however, continued, and on the morning of the 9th
+was another six hours’ storm. Then followed days in which wind and
+storm alternated, though work in the open air was not disturbed by it.
+The astronomers had enough to do to bring their geodetical work to a
+satisfactory conclusion during this year. The ground on which the basis
+was to be measured was reconnoitred, the direction and extreme point
+settled upon, and in different places signals were raised, so that,
+later on, the spots from which to measure the triangle would be fixed
+at once. Dr. Pansch undertook the meteorological observations for those
+absent.
+
+Tramnitz frequently went hunting, and shot hares and ptarmigan. On
+the first bright days the hares gambolled upon the southern slopes
+of the Hasenberg, as if they had never suffered from the long night
+and snow-storms. They, like the ptarmigan, had chosen the tender
+willow-shoots for their food.
+
+The men now prepared eagerly for the intended sledge journey. By the
+middle of February the tent, coverings, furs, and other necessaries,
+were so far finished that they could be laid by the side of the sledge,
+which was already put together. The latter was then laden and tried. It
+was our intention to begin the journey at the commencement of March.
+We expected no real hindrance from the cold, and we lived in the hope
+of happily being able to reach 80° N.L.; we also made a successful
+attempt to sail the sledge. The astronomers had forwarded their work
+so energetically that they hoped to begin their geodetical journey
+about the middle of March. For this all was prepared. The sledges
+caused us the chief trouble, for, except one large one, the others were
+so constructed that for long and difficult journeys they were very
+insufficient. We decided upon building one that should answer every
+purpose.
+
+The weather in the second half of February remained changeable--now
+fine and clear, now gloomy skies and some falls of snow. The Northern
+Lights shone the whole night through in the loveliest of colours,
+unimpeded by the light of the moon, which often emitted a halo. At
+the same time, light breezes blew from all directions, and only a
+few storms of short duration disturbed our work in the open air.
+Encouraging now was the rapid lengthening of the days. In the middle
+of the month, about five a.m., the first dusky twilight might be seen
+in the eastern sky, and an hour later a faint trace of daylight spread
+over the country.
+
+On the last of February, at three a.m., it began to brighten in
+the north-east, and at four o’clock the darkness disappeared; the
+temperature of the atmosphere was -13° Fahr.
+
+This degree of cold had reached a settled point, which we had never as
+yet observed. Excepting stormy weather, the temperature seldom rose
+above 13° Fahr., and sank more than once below -27° and -31° Fahr. On
+the evening of the 21st of February the thermometer reached its lowest
+point with -40°, which, however, lasted but one hour. This is exactly
+the stage at which quicksilver begins to freeze; but, unfortunately, we
+were not allowed to witness this interesting phenomenon.
+
+A cold of more than -26.50° in a calm was, moreover, quite bearable,
+and we never found any evil effects produced by it. Here again we found
+that, in a still atmosphere, the woollen clothing was best for keeping
+in the warmth of the body; whilst in a cold wind, even many times
+double, it seemed as if we had no clothes on. Under such circumstances,
+fur was the last resource. Also on the throat and lungs the breathing
+of the coldest air seemed to have no evil effect, just as when eating
+frozen things one feels the cold deeper down. We could, coming straight
+from the caboose, breathe with impunity, although the temperature of
+the air varied in one minute from 90° above, to 40° below zero; that
+is a difference of 130 degrees, and yet this is not the extreme by a
+long way. In passing out from the heated dwellings of the Esquimaux, at
+99.50° Fahr., into the cold air of -58° Reaumur, there is a difference
+of quite 157°, and this not only can the Esquimaux stand, but all
+Europeans who visit these parts.
+
+Although in such a temperature the ship itself was fearfully cold, we
+succeeded as easily as before in keeping warmth in the cabin, and only
+on stormy days did the quantity of coal used exceed 20lbs. or a little
+more. At the cracks of the cabin door so much ice collected that it had
+to be removed once every day, and where the cold wind blew directly on
+the cabin-wall, constant attention was necessary to keep the mattresses
+free from ice and dry.
+
+Some of the observations of temperature at this time are perhaps worth
+noting, as giving the different degrees of cold at different heights.
+On the 22nd Dr. Copeland observed, on a mountain 918 feet high, -25.37°
+Fahr., whilst below it was about 28½°. Above, a strong north wind was
+blowing, of which below we had no sign. Still more interesting is the
+fact that, on the 15th, the astronomers, at a height of more than 1960
+feet, found only 27°, so that from the exertion of climbing they were
+bathed in perspiration. Below, at the same time, it was nearly zero.
+
+On the 16th an event happened which, under the circumstances, might
+have endangered the safety of the ship. It was spring-tide; and at the
+lowest ebb the ship grounded. As the ice and the snow wall adhered to
+the ship, we could see the water sink in the tide-hole; and the weight
+of the ice forcing down the vessel was enormous; and had the ground
+been uneven, the stern-post or the rudder must have been damaged. The
+ice was at this time fifty-seven English inches thick.
+
+On the 21st, the regular meeting was again held for magnetic readings.
+
+The next few days passed rapidly in preparations for our sledge journey
+to the north, which was settled for the 7th of March. The provisions
+were stowed in sacks, the tent made ready, and the sledge laden for
+a trial trip, which resulted satisfactorily, and the sledge-party
+photographed in different groups, but with indifferent success. During
+this time the usual scientific work was continued; on the 3rd of March
+the astronomers measured the base for their geodetical observations,
+and on the 4th a magnetic meeting was held. On March 6th an incident
+occurred which threw everything else into the shade.
+
+“We were sitting (writes Lieut. Payer) fortunately silent in the cabin,
+when Koldewey suddenly heard a faint cry for help. We all hurriedly
+tumbled up the companion-ladder to the deck, when an exclamation from
+Börgen, ‘A bear is carrying me off!’ struck painfully on our ears.
+
+“It was quite dark; we could scarcely see anything, but we made
+directly for the quarter whence the cry proceeded, armed with poles,
+weapons, &c., over hummocks and drifts, when an alarm-shot, which
+we fired in the air, seemed to make some little impression, as the
+bear dropped his prey, and ran forward a few paces. He turned again,
+however, dragging his victim over the broken shore-ice, close to a
+field which stretched in a southerly direction. All depended upon our
+coming up with him before he should reach this field, as he would
+carry his prey over the open plain with the speed of a horse, and thus
+escape. We succeeded. The bear turned upon us for a moment, and then,
+scared by our continuous fire, let fall his prey.
+
+“We lifted our poor comrade up on to the ice, to bear him to his
+cabin--a task which was rendered somewhat difficult by the slippery
+and uneven surface of the ice. But after we had gone a little way,
+Börgen implored us to make as much haste as possible. On procuring a
+light, the coldest nature would have been shocked at the spectacle
+which poor Börgen presented. The bear had torn his scalp in several
+places, and he had received several injuries in other parts of his
+body. His clothes and hair were saturated with blood. We improvised a
+couch for him in the rear of our own cabin, as his own was not large
+enough.
+
+“The first operation was performed upon him on the cabin table. And
+here we may briefly notice the singular fact that, although he had
+been carried more than 100 paces with his skull almost laid bare, at
+a temperature of -13° Fahr., his scalp healed so perfectly that not a
+single portion was missing.” So far Lieut. Payer.
+
+But let us hear what Börgen has to say for himself upon the
+subject:--“About a quarter before nine p.m. I had gone out to observe
+the occultation of a star, which was to take place about that time,
+and also to take the meteorological readings. As I was in the act of
+getting on shore, Capt. Koldewey came on to the ice. We spoke for a few
+moments, when I went on shore, while he returned to the cabin. On my
+return from the observatory, about fifty steps from the vessel, I heard
+a rustling noise to the left, and became aware of the proximity of a
+bear. There was no time to think, or use my gun. The grip was so sudden
+and rapid, that I am unable to say how it was done; whether the bear
+rose and struck me down with his fore-paws, or whether he ran me down.
+But from the character of the injuries I have sustained (contusions and
+a deep cut on the left ear), I conclude that the former must have been
+the case. The next thing I felt was the tearing of my scalp, which was
+only protected by a skull-cap. This is their mode of attacking seals,
+but, owing to the slipperiness of their skulls, the teeth glide off.
+The cry for help which I uttered frightened the animal for a moment;
+but he turned again and bit me several times on the head.[59] The
+alarm had meanwhile been heard by the captain, who had not yet reached
+the cabin. He hurried on deck, convinced himself that it was really
+an alarm, roused up the crew and hastened on to the ice, bringing
+assistance to his struggling comrade. The noise evidently frightened
+the bear, and he trotted off with his prey, which he dragged by the
+head. A shot fired to frighten the creature effected its purpose,
+inasmuch as he dropped me, and sprang a few steps aside; but he
+immediately seized me by the arm, and, his hold proving insufficient,
+he seized me by the right hand, on which was a fur glove,[60] and this
+gave the pursuers time to come up with the brute, which had by its
+great speed left them far behind. He was now making for the shore,
+and would certainly have escaped with his prey, had he succeeded in
+climbing the bank. However, as he came to the edge of the ice, he
+turned along the coast side, continuing on the rough and broken ice,
+which greatly retarded his speed, and thus allowed his pursuers upon
+the ice to gain rapidly upon him. After being dragged in this way
+for about 300 paces, almost strangled by my shawl, which the bear had
+seized at the same time, he dropped me, and immediately afterwards
+Koldewey was bending over me with the words, ‘Thank God! he is still
+alive!’ The bear stood a few paces on one side, evidently undecided
+what course to pursue, until a bullet gave him a hint that it was high
+time to take himself off.
+
+“No one thought of pursuing him, for their first care was to carry
+the wounded man on board, whither the doctor and Herr Tramnitz had
+gone in order to prepare the requisites for binding up the wounds. The
+main injuries were in the head, where, amongst numerous other wounds
+from the bites, two especially from four to six inches long ran along
+the scalp, the edges of which hung loose, leaving the skull bare for
+one-third to two-fifths of an inch. The other wounds, about twenty
+in number, were in part caused by striking against the fragments and
+rough broken edges of the ice. It is worth while mentioning that,
+neither during the act of receiving the wounds nor during the process
+of healing, which progressed favourably, did I experience the smallest
+pain.[61] The next day, upon the ice, at some distance from the scene
+of the accident, the chronometer[62] and the gun were found, showing
+the force of the blow, and also the sail-cloth boots, which had dropped
+off while crossing the ice.
+
+“This accident was an additional proof how dangerous it was ever to go
+out alone in the dark; for weapons are but of little avail if one is
+not aware of the approach of the animal. This precaution, which was,
+as a rule, strictly observed, was in my case neglected simply because
+the next day the whole crew were to start on a sledge expedition to the
+north, which had now to be postponed for a day.”[63]
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER X.
+
+       LONG SLEDGE JOURNEY ALONG THE COAST NORTHWARDS--DISCOVERY
+             OF KING WILLIAM’S ISLAND--MARCH 8TH TO APRIL
+                            27TH, 1870.[64]
+
+
+   Object and result of these sledge journeys.--Equipment and
+   clothing.--Tent.--Departure.--Provisions.--Discipline on the
+   march.--Hardships.--Refraction.--Parhelia.--Difficulties of
+   sledge-dragging.--Tent-pitching.--Snow-blindness.--Return
+   to the ship.--Second start.--Return of the companion
+   sledge.--Hochstetter’s Foreland.--Geological excursion.--Cape
+   Oswald Heer.--Ascent of the Haystack.--Bear-hunting.--Reaching
+   of 76° N. Lat--Cape Carl Ritter.--Remains of Esquimaux
+   summer-huts.--Cape Peschel.--Roon Bay.--Icebergs.--The Devil’s
+   Cape.--Parhelia in Roon Bay.--Desert of snow.--Eastern
+   Island.--Dove Bay.--Mountain-chain and glaciers on the
+   west of it.--Erratic blocks on Eastern Island.--Cape
+   Heligoland.--Storm Bay.--Passion-week.--Violent storm.--77°
+   N. Lat. passed.--Virgin soil.--Erection of a cairn on
+   the northernmost point reached.--Depositing a document
+   therein.--Want of necessaries.--Want remedied by killing two
+   musk-oxen.--Snow-storm.--The midnight sun.--Difficulties of
+   Arctic sledge journeys.--Geological formation of the Island at
+   Cape Peschel.--Peter Ellinger taken ill.--Payer and Ellinger
+   on forwards.--First salutation of spring.--Return to the
+   ship.--Results of the journey.
+
+
+Sledge journeys, particularly in spring-time, are attended by great
+expenditure of strength and troubles of all kinds. A day’s progress
+by ship would take a week in a sledge; indeed, sometimes with almost
+superhuman strength, not more than a few hundred paces can be made in
+a day.
+
+Such journeys must also always be made on the frozen sea or on the
+Fjords. Overland sledge journeys are impossible in East Greenland, on
+account of the unevenness of the ground and the insufficiency of snow.
+The most favourable time is the autumn. In winter, the long Arctic
+night effectually frustrates every excursion. In spring they are made
+more difficult by the intensity of the cold, and for at least three
+parts of the time by terrific snow-storms, and in the beginning of
+summer the changing of the snow into water, or snow-bog.
+
+For nine months and a half our ship, surrounded and fast bound by the
+ice, was the only place of refuge for such expeditions, during which
+we could not rely upon any means of subsistence from land, but only
+on the chance good fortune of the hunt. Everything had therefore to
+be taken with us; and the heavily-laden sledge was indeed the ship of
+the desert, the loss of which would carry all with it. The quantity of
+provisions to be taken also set a limit upon our excursions, as well as
+the knowledge that each man, even under favourable circumstances, could
+only carry two hundred weight.
+
+The north-east coast of Greenland is so completely uninhabited, that it
+was impossible to obtain dog-sledges; so we had to drag them ourselves,
+which we did on five journeys which occupied three months, and in which
+we traversed nearly a thousand nautical miles. Clothing and outfit also
+requires great care, as on these expeditions the explorer has for weeks
+together to brave a temperature sometimes below -24° Fahr. Snow-hoods,
+masks, coats of sealskin, boots of sail-cloth (leathern boots are not
+pliable, and crack in the frost) lined with flannel, stockings soled
+with flannel, were prepared, and every precaution taken.
+
+Each man had two woollen shirts (the under one having a piece of skin
+with the hair inside sewn to it), trousers lined with fur, a thick
+vest with sleeves, two pairs of woollen drawers, three pairs of warm
+stockings, a water-tight sealskin coat--the hair outside, and by many
+drawn over the head, with only the hole at the throat, to keep out the
+wind and cold. Besides this, each wore a knitted hood, fitting close,
+to which was fastened the flannel mask, with small openings for the
+eyes and mouth, and the nose protected; over this a large fur hood,
+only showing a small portion of the face; a pair of knitted woollen
+gloves, inside of which were fur gloves; and, lastly, a shawl--all this
+as protection against the cold.
+
+The clothing is provided with large sail-cloth pockets, the one in the
+coat being always filled with cartridges. Snow spectacles were worn on
+the march, those of a smoky grey colour being the best.[65] Our tent
+was of light sail-cloth, the weight of which we had brought down to
+forty pounds, and was quite filled with the general sleeping-sack of
+sheepskin. For preparing our meals we had a cooking apparatus and a
+saucepan, with sixty bottles of spirit as fuel,--wood or coal being too
+heavy.
+
+The necessary quantity of provisions for each week was divided into
+sacks, each containing coffee, chocolate, boiled beef, ham, butter,
+suet, salt, dry black bread, pemmican extract of meat, beans, lentils,
+peas, barley, flour mixed with melted butter, and twenty bottles of
+brandy. The pulse was cooked on board, left on deck to freeze, then
+chopped in pieces, and thrown into the sack. Our medicine-chest only
+provided for three diseases, frost-bite, dysentery, and bad eyes; five
+pounds of private luggage were allowed for each man, and the three
+guns, with 200 cartridges, formed what may be termed the dead weight.
+
+Well, it is the 8th of March. Some days before we had made a trial
+trip, and it had proved most satisfactory; there seemed no prospect of
+change in the temperature, which was the lowest we ever observed in
+East Greenland, being 24° to 35.50° Fahr. below zero, and, still less
+hope of the cessation of those time-thieving, indescribably dreadful
+snow-storms. But time is too precious; we have already ten hours’
+daylight; the sledge is packed, and we begin the journey.
+
+The weather is lovely. A moderate wind blows from the north over the
+hard snowy covering, along which the sledge glides, now with hoarse
+and now with ringing tones. At the next rocky projection, beyond which
+the ship can no longer be seen, our companions, who have given us the
+customary escort, return; and we continue our journey alone.
+
+The eye soon gets weary of the brightness of the white surface and the
+uniformity of the landscape. Chains of mountains, stretching along the
+coast from ten to fifteen nautical miles off, are seen day after day.
+From insignificant elevations there rise, in the course of a few hours,
+over the endless snowy surface, stately icebergs, behind which huge
+snow-drifts have accumulated. A short stay in the dry cold air causes
+a painful dryness in the larynx and mouth, whilst the very cold but
+slightly damp air is exhaled with perfect comfort.
+
+It is very difficult to keep a straight course when the snowy surface
+is covered with a peculiar layer of low fog, which, however, seldom
+happens in the spring, as in a violent fall of snow nothing can be done
+but by the compass, and this tiring way of proceeding can often only be
+employed when an iceberg is for a moment visible, as offering a direct
+object of sight.
+
+The great inequality in the warmth of the atmosphere, or unequal
+thickness of the atmospheric layers above the ice, produces the
+strangest distortions of the land, by means of refraction, causing
+objects still below the horizon to be distinctly seen.
+
+During our voyage in the pack-ice in 1869, we saw some most astonishing
+phenomena--column-shaped groups of ice towering aloft, often resembling
+the ruins of a town; basins of water shut in by the ice, all of which
+were below the edge of the horizon; and once a vessel, which seemed to
+stand as four, one above another.
+
+Still more interesting is the effect upon a land picture. Now appears
+a high, remote island, without any disfiguration of its contour,
+apparently set up on a plinth at least 900 feet high; or a completely
+dome-shaped mountain is turned into a square, the outlines of the ridge
+assuming a dreadfully wild character, every top threatening to fall
+over; or the distorted picture acquires a rapid motion, growing as
+high again; or creating the delusive picture of a land which certainly
+existed, but not where we expected to find it (_Fata Morgana_).
+Thus, in Lat. 77° we for a whole day were advancing to a land, the
+individual features of which--such as snow-furrows and rocks--were
+incontestably seen by all; but upon leaving our tents in the evening it
+had all disappeared.
+
+Nearly resembling this, in a physical point of view, we frequently
+observed, during our spring sledge-journey, parhelia, or mock suns,
+caused by the refraction of the sun’s light by the ice-crystals
+floating in the upper strata of air. These mock suns sometimes form a
+double circle round the sun, with a coloured bow beyond, and horizontal
+stripes of light emanating from the sun itself. The inner part of this
+bow is always red, the outer shading off into pale green and a very
+light sky-blue. The first circle is bright yellow within; the second
+of a yellowish grey. This phenomenon only takes place in a yellow,
+vapourish atmosphere, with horizontal strata, and a somewhat cloudy sky.
+
+It was, however, too dangerous to give our undivided attention to
+this wonderful phenomenon of nature to the neglect of all surrounding
+objects; for, though these appearances are frequent, bears are more
+frequent still. Indeed, bear-hunting took its turn in our hunting-roll,
+and some of us more than once narrowly escaped being torn to pieces.
+
+Amongst other disagreeables of an Arctic sledge-journey is its
+monotony. The ideas and wishes contained within the limited horizon of
+life in the Arctic-world pass as quickly away as the eye is wearied by
+the monotony of the landscape.
+
+Conversation carried on by men straining at the traces can certainly
+not be very animated. The frost prevents smoking, for the pipes freeze.
+There is a continued conflict against the loss of warmth; and the cold
+penetrates in a hundred different ways. Now the chin is numbed, a
+painful straining of the forehead sets in, or a violent pricking of
+the nostrils, which are exposed to the wind. Sometimes one stands in
+danger of the heels, the toes, or the hands being frost-bitten. The
+hair of the face, and even the eyelashes, get hoar with frost--indeed,
+the eyes are often completely closed--and every frozen spot on the body
+must at once be rubbed with lumps of snow resembling pumice-stone,
+until a warm, pricking glow succeeds. When, as in the case of many of
+our party, the frozen hands or feet were not rubbed with snow until
+too late, it led to numerous blisters. The fingers swelled up into
+lumps, and became quite numbed; but the noses (the whole eight of
+which were frozen) were more fortunate; they emerged from a white into
+a red stage of enlarged dimensions, were eventually covered with a
+parchment-like skin, remaining for some time most sensitive, and by
+slow degrees regained their normal condition, so that by the time we
+landed in Europe they were all right again. The heat of our bodies,
+which we did our best to retain by warm woollen clothes, was carried
+away in a moment by the slightest wind; and if it increased, the cold
+crept between every button of our sealskin clothing; the penetrating
+icy wind was felt at every stitch, the arms hung down like lead, deadly
+cold, and no one dared to walk without a mask. If the wind rose still
+more, curtains of penetrating snow-crystals rose with it from the
+ground; then a snow-storm, which always comes from the north, might be
+expected, announcing itself by a lofty white appearance in the south,
+the violet colour and close proximity of the mountains, and low-hanging
+clouds. But still we risk the march forward against the thickening
+snow, until painful breathing and stiffening limbs warn us to pitch
+our tent.
+
+Under ordinary circumstances this was done about six or seven p.m.,
+on a smooth surface. A hole was quickly dug with shovels, on which
+the tent was erected, and the dugout blocks of snow laid round it for
+safety against the storm, and the sledge placed as a shield to the
+north. The tent was kept upright by means of four long poles, each
+crossed at the top, stretched by ropes fastened to axes or piles driven
+into the ground. When the sleeping-sack had been laid down in the tent,
+our personal baggage settled, the kettle filled with blocks of snow by
+the cook, the lamp lit, and the rations given out, our comrades, who,
+owing to the increased cold since the setting of the sun, had meanwhile
+been running and jumping to keep themselves warm, were allowed to enter.
+
+During our last half-hour’s march, each man had been busy thawing his
+beard with his hands, for it had been changed into a lump of ice, so
+that it might not melt whilst the cooking was going on, and so wet
+their clothes and coverings. As soon as all were in their places in the
+tent the aperture was closed, and preparations made for passing the
+night.
+
+The stiff sail-cloth boots, fast frozen to the stockings which were to
+form our pillows, were thawed between the hands, and with difficulty
+taken off; the stockings, thick with rimy snow, were scraped, then
+wrung and laid upon the breast, to dry by our only available means--our
+bodily heat--so as to prepare them for the following day’s work.
+
+At last all have wriggled themselves into the sleeping-sack, each one
+lying partly on his neighbour, and in this modest space waiting for the
+evening meal.
+
+The first hour is spent in melting the snow, the second in preparing
+the meal, which is devoured eagerly, and as cool as possible. The
+development of steam during the cooking (which in the very cold weather
+consumed one bottle of spirit, or 1 lb.) put us into such a vapour-bath
+that we could not even see our next neighbour; the tent walls were
+completely wet through, and the temperature, which had been 35° Fahr.,
+rose to 36°. The dampness of the coverings and clothes, from the
+condensation of the steam on the rime, of course increased, and the
+opening of the tent-door occasioned a fall of snow within, so that by
+the time the cooking was over, all was covered with a thick coating of
+ice or crust of snow.
+
+It is about eight or nine o’clock; the small rations of boiled
+beef, soup, and vegetables, are no longer enough to allay the daily
+increasing hunger; but sleep buries that, as well as our burning
+thirst, in oblivion. Only occasionally did our sparing supply of
+spirits allow us to prepare an extra quantity of water.
+
+During the march each one carried an india-rubber or tin bottle, full
+of snow, on his bare body, turned as much as possible to the sun,
+and often after many hours only a few spare spoonfuls (and sometimes
+nothing) could be obtained from it.
+
+Last of all, the cook, after cleaning out the kettle, also fights his
+way into the sleeping-sack, which thus attains its proper complement. A
+side position is the only one possible--to-night all lie to the left,
+to-morrow all to the right. Comfortable positions, such as stretching
+on one’s back for example, meet with a miserable protest, as well as
+any other after-movement; and when at length silence falls upon all,
+the eight men form one single lump.
+
+The nose acts no longer merely as a condenser, as on the spring
+journey; it now becomes a cold-pole, and leaving it outside the rimy
+and icy covering is preferable to burying it in the questionable
+atmosphere of the sack. The mouth, as the only outlet of exhalation,
+must remain open, but the teeth get so cold that they feel like
+icicles, and the mask, which it is necessary to wear in the night
+freezes to the long beard.
+
+Happy were those who, during the lowest temperature within the first
+fourteen days of our journey, could really lose themselves during the
+hours of rest, if only for a short time, for they were generally passed
+in a painful waiting for a happy release, by--dragging!
+
+This general wakefulness made it unnecessary to set a special watch for
+bears and foxes, which occasionally made a bold raid upon the stores in
+the sledge, for they had never yet succeeded in approaching us quite
+noiselessly.
+
+In spite of all efforts to the contrary, the cutting cold too soon
+penetrated the sleeping-sack; within the tent the temperature sinks
+from 60° or 65°, to below zero, and the body has to be again refreshed
+with artificial warmth, by motion and hot food.
+
+The natural consequences of this state of temperature is a continually
+increasing sensation of freezing until the morning. During the day the
+sack has got thoroughly cold on the sledge, and must again be warmed
+by bodily heat, being frozen into thick folds as hard as iron. Whoever
+lies upon these seems to be lying on laths, which towards morning begin
+to lose their sharpness. One or the other we keep a bottle of snow
+about us. All are shivering, scarcely any sleep. For hours together we
+are in a state of suffocation, the pressure on either side causing a
+feeling as though the collar-bone was being forced into the chest, and
+the shoulders crushed. Each lies upon his arm (which of course goes to
+sleep), and is often prevented from breathing by the smell of train-oil
+proceeding from his neighbour’s sealskin. The breath condenses over the
+face and upon the sloping tent-side, in long snow webs, which fall at
+the slightest movement.
+
+The misery of tent life reaches its maximum during an uninterrupted
+snow-storm of sometimes three days’ duration. So long as this assumes
+the form of a hurricane, no one can leave the tent without danger of
+either being suffocated or blown away. These Greenland snow-storms,
+which carry small stones with them, greatly resemble West Indian
+hurricanes, only that the sun is completely darkened by the rush of
+snow.
+
+Of course our tents would soon have been blown over, if some
+precautions had not been taken. Great distress reigned within. The wind
+greatly lessened the already small space by pressing in the walls.
+Through the canvas, through every stitch or smallest opening, spurts
+a small flood of the finest snow, like flour out of a flour-mill, or
+collects itself on the inner surface, where its ever-increasing weight
+at length brings it down like small avalanches. As long as the storm
+rages the cold is alleviated from the equalization of warm air over the
+sea, though it seldom allows any heat to remain in the tent, so that we
+were still in a cold of from 14° to 5° Fahr.
+
+By degrees a covering of snow at least an inch thick lies on the sack,
+under which we must patiently wait till the storm ceases. We scrape it
+away with the knife, but it soon returns again. On some occasions this
+snow began to melt, and penetrate the clothes, making us look like
+seals coming up out of the water.
+
+In a steadily rising temperature, too, the snow on which we lay would
+melt, and the sack get wet underneath, not to dry again till the
+summer, but freeze on the sledge in those hard folds we dreaded so
+much. We repeatedly felt the want of india-rubber coverings.
+
+This state of things often lasted from two to three days, and we
+waited with an indifference bordering on stupidity, sitting squeezed,
+with numbed hands, mending the gloves or stockings, almost freezing,
+masked; beards full of ice, stuffed up with a chaos of frozen clothes
+and boots, and, worst of all, fasting. The duration of the journey, as
+well as the extent of country to be explored, depended upon the use of
+the provisions. If, therefore, some part of the time was lost through
+storms, this loss, in spite of hunger, thirst, and loss of strength,
+could only be regained by reduced rations, which often only consisted
+of a thin soup.
+
+The saucepan has become leaky, a small sea has formed on the sack,
+the spirit-lamp runs, and repeatedly threatens to destroy the tent by
+fire, which, during the storm, would be the work of a moment. The cook
+grumbles, burns his fingers to-day which were frozen yesterday;--urged
+on by hunger, his cooking is subject to sharp criticism, as each is
+waiting for the eventful moment when the meal shall be ready.
+
+All food was frozen--even brandy began to freeze one night--meat in the
+tins or ham had to be chopped with the axe; butter could, without any
+fear, be carried in the waistcoat-pocket, to be enjoyed on the march.
+
+Woe to the unfortunate man who, in a lull of the storm, goes into
+the open air. He is almost torn to pieces, stifled by the snow-filled
+air, betrayed into snow-drifts, and yet not daring to open his eyes.
+Numbed with cold, white as a miller, he returns to the tent. Here he
+is a subject of horror to his neighbours in the sack, whom he intends
+robbing of their warmth to thaw himself. The snow-powder blown in upon
+the opening of the tent-door has penetrated through all the clothes,
+and the skin has to be scraped, and any frost-bites that may have
+set in have to be dispersed by rubbing. Indeed, the disturbance and
+excitement consequent upon a walk in the open air does not subside for
+some hours.
+
+But the snow-blind suffer the most from such a state of things. Out of
+consideration to them smoking was dropped.
+
+The irritation caused by the white snow-flakes, which with us are
+easily beaten aside, causes great suffering in Greenland, from the
+inflamed state of the eyes and the thick heavy atmosphere, to those who
+may have been unfortunate enough to break their snow-spectacles.
+
+Beating them off while on the march is impossible, for the damp cloth
+freezes at once to a lump of ice, making the eyes insupportably cold.
+The simple bandage, on the other hand, does not save one from the
+steady burning pain, which acts like needle-pricks. Opening the eye
+for a moment is not to be thought of. The blind are obliged to pull
+with the others, as the laden sledge cannot be moved but by our united
+strength.
+
+As a rule, we break up about five a.m. The thin black coffee is taken
+with some ice-cold bread dust,[66] which effectually destroys all
+its warming properties, mixed into it like a mash, and then follows
+laborious packing up of the clothes, in order to be prepared for all
+weathers. The frozen boots must first be thawed with the hands, and the
+folds taken out, the tent freed from snow, and beaten until pliable.
+The sleeping-sack receives the same treatment, which, as a sign of our
+disgust and its daily-increasing weight from the ice, we named “the
+Walrus.”
+
+The soaked sealskin clothing freezes at once in the air, and damp
+condenses on the hair in frost-blossoms. One or the other rubs his face
+with scraped snow to refresh his eyes--a novel kind of washing, in
+default of water, though with the slightest breath of wind his hands
+are in danger of freezing. After every snow-storm, tent and sledge has
+to be dug out, and the contents cleaned with difficulty.
+
+All this business occupies about two hours, when the traces are taken
+up with great satisfaction, as a long-looked-for release from the pain
+of the nightly couch. The sledge is loosened from its frozen position,
+and the journey continued, which, after twenty-three days, brought us
+to 77° of Lat., the most northerly point ever reached on the east coast
+of Greenland.
+
+But we will now give an account of this expedition. It ought really
+to have begun on the 7th of March; but an accident happened to one of
+our comrades, who, on the evening of the 6th, had been attacked in the
+darkness by a bear, and severely injured. This occasioned some delay,
+and we started on the morning of the 8th of March.
+
+We had two sledges and ten men. The smaller of the two was harnessed to
+four men, and was to accompany us for a week, providing us with food,
+and after laying a depôt on the east coast of Hochstetter’s Promontory,
+was to return to the ship.
+
+We judged that our journey would last fifty or sixty days. The
+first day our advance was rendered so difficult by the hard, rough,
+sharp-edged snow-drifts, that we could only get the sledges along half
+laden, thus having to go over the road three times, and we only reached
+the north end of Sabine Island.
+
+The next day, finding the obstacles insurmountable, we thought to
+better ourselves by enlarging the tent, in spite of the fearful cold on
+the open field, and taking eight men with us instead of six, the other
+two returning to the ship; but even up to the 10th of March no change
+for the better set in.
+
+Only with great trouble and in constant danger of destruction could
+we get the sledge over the masses of snow: signs of a heavy storm
+were also visible; so, not to expend our time and strength in vain,
+we determined to return to the ship, and await a more favourable
+opportunity for our undertaking. Upon reaching it, we saw a hunter
+chasing a bear, which, with the agility of a cat, was climbing the
+slopes of Germania mountain. He and his companion had besieged the ship
+for some time.
+
+On the 12th of March we fetched back the sledge from the north end of
+Sabine Island, and on this occasion erected a provision depôt. The
+dreadful snow-storm of the next few days made us bewail the loss of
+time, but showed us how fruitless the continuation of our journey would
+have been.
+
+At last, on the 24th of March, circumstances had, we thought, taken
+a more favourable turn; so we left the vessel at nine a.m. for the
+second time. Six men--Ellinger, Herzberg, Mieders, Klentzer, Wagner,
+the carpenter, and our commander, Koldewey, and Payer--dragged
+the large one; four men--Sengstacke, Krauschner, Iversen, and the
+boatswain--managed the convoy. As before, we realized the mildness of
+the temperature in the harbour compared with the snowy waste to the
+north of Sabine Island.
+
+The whole of Sengstacke’s right foot was frost-bitten the first day,
+and rubbing with snow during the whole of the night was of no use; so
+the convoy sledge had to return the following day, which was a great
+loss for us. We increased our store of provisions by taking that from
+the other sledge, and continued our journey; but on the 27th of March
+a snow-storm kept us in the tent, and on the afternoon of the 28th the
+sledge broke down one of the curved irons which supported it. With much
+trouble this was repaired, but the violence of the storm raging on the
+29th and 30th prevented us from leaving the tent.
+
+On the 31st of March, after a night of torment, we pulled through the
+straits between Shannon Island (from which a herd of musk oxen watched
+us with astonishment) and Hochstetter’s Promontory. Upon reaching
+a large iceberg to the south-east of the latter, we took advantage
+of the sunny weather to shake out our ice-encumbered sleeping-sack.
+Unfortunately this brought no relief for the next night, as the low
+temperature robbed every one of sleep. The coast-edge of Hochstetter’s
+Promontory (stretching direct north and south), we passed near enough
+to allow of a fruitless raid upon a herd of musk oxen. As soon as
+the hunter was within 200 steps of them, the animals formed their
+accustomed square, and, placing the young ones in the centre, they
+all take to flight, reversing these tactics whenever they are pursued.
+A geological excursion to the small clefts in the valley of the
+basin-shaped land, which rose a few hundred feet, would have been
+well worth the trouble. The completely horizontal strata of micaceous
+sandstone (containing fossil bivalves), belonging to the mesozoic[67]
+epoch, contained layers of lias coal, dark and sometimes syenitic
+gneiss, and a reddish degenerate kind of the same.
+
+In the evening the island of Koldewey, many hundred feet high, came
+above the horizon, distorted by the refraction into wild forms. Against
+the ever-increasing wind we sought to warm ourselves by pulling hard
+at the sledge; but noses, feet, and hands were all endangered. The
+distance travelled lately amounted to from ten to fifteen English miles
+daily. We had gone over the north end of Shannon, and saw icebergs in
+increasing numbers before us.
+
+On the 2nd of April a snow-storm again kept us in the tent. On the
+3rd we reached the north end of Hochstetter’s Promontory, formed by
+Cape Oswald Heer, next to the most northerly boundary of the explored
+country in East Greenland. The peninsula of Haystack, miscalled by
+Clavering an island, forms this boundary with a pyramidal summit of
+from 600 to 700 feet high.
+
+Near to this mountain our sledge broke down in the evening for the
+second time; this, however, caused no loss of time, as the ascent of
+Mount Haystack, a point so important for the determination of our
+positions, could upon no account be left undone. The mountain is, as it
+were, sprinkled with erratic blocks, belonging partly to a very recent
+formation, and, like the high ridge of the coast consists chiefly of
+gneiss, with alternate layers of red felspar. The scanty vegetation
+already showed signs of budding. From the point one perceives a large
+bay (Bessel Bay) to the north, with the mouth of several fjords; to
+the east nothing was to be seen but ice and the north end of Shannon,
+with its soft undulating mountains. The rosy sloping masses of Koldewey
+Island, in the north-east, looked in the splendour of the setting sun
+like fairy-land. An endless snowy waste of bluish-grey shadows lay
+between it and us. Half we had already traversed.
+
+Near us rose the high, wild, Alpine front of the geologically
+interesting island of Kuhn; to the west lay a rough mountainous
+district, the interior of which had never yet been trodden by the
+foot of man, and in which Clavering mistakenly makes a fjord (called
+Roseneath Inlet) penetrate, which really never existed.
+
+From Cape Heer to Cape Seebach (west of Haystack) ran a beautiful
+bay, opening to the south, which, from its position, one would be
+inclined to say would form a perfect harbour for the winter. But what
+irreparable danger we should have run if, in the previous summer, we
+had found this bay free from ice, and had taken possession of it,
+instead of that to the south of Sabine Island! Now it was blocked with
+ice--perhaps had been for a decade--certainly for some years. Even the
+deep pools south of Haystack lay upon ice several years old.
+
+In the course of the afternoon’s march we had a bear-hunt, though an
+unsuccessful one. A she-bear and her two cubs--the latter very like
+poodles, and from their dirty yellow colour and black noses perceptible
+for a long distance--were making quickly towards us, but when within
+about 400 paces, our firing drove them back.
+
+  [Illustration: SURPRISED BY A BEAR.]
+
+On the morning of the 4th of April another bear attacked us in the
+tent, but paid for his temerity with his life, giving us a can of fat
+(which served as fuel for four days) and a good deal of meat, which
+we immediately enjoyed raw. For the first time drowsiness overcame us
+all, and first one and then another closed his eyes. In the afternoon
+snow again drifted from the north, against which we marched for some
+hours, but were eventually obliged to put up the tent. This lasted
+to the 5th, and kept us prisoners. A sudden and unexpected increase
+of temperature, although only lasting some hours, made the snow
+melt inside our tent, placing us in a most uncomfortable state. On
+the 6th of April we crossed the 76° of Lat., and reached the level
+mountain-foot of a cape called Karl Ritter, which was bounded to the
+north by the beautiful bay of Bessel (named after the great German
+astronomer), so rich in fjords. The shore consisted of mica gneiss,
+alternating with amphibolite, and a very coarse-grained granite,
+with red orthoclase, green oligoclase, and black mica. To our great
+astonishment, on the south side of the cape, amongst some remains of
+bones of sea animals, we came upon some Esquimaux dwellings. They were
+summer tents, marked by a circle of stones, the hide being held down,
+and kept upright by a centre pole.
+
+Our road, in the meantime, had assumed a totally different character.
+It consisted of lumps of ice rounded by evaporation, amongst which
+we lost our can of bear’s-grease. Nevertheless, the same evening we
+reached the southern exit of a second very large bay (Roon Bay), north
+of Cape Peschel, which was marked by the wildest mountain character.
+
+The icebergs here increased everywhere both in size and numbers. They
+are successors of the glaciers, and are distinguished by their light
+green colour, their sharp, craggy formation, and more particularly
+the layers, which differ from the bluish and less dense ice of the
+sea-formed ice-floe. The appearance of these icebergs on the open sea
+is very irregular, as the icing of the bays stops all communication of
+the Fjord with the Arctic currents often for a decade of years, and
+the icebergs grow together with the flat ice into masses, until a
+steady increase of temperature and spring storms open the latter and
+release the former. It is also possible that the released fragments of
+East-Greenland glaciers may be carried to the west coast by a connexion
+of the different fjords and currents, or that by interior channels they
+arrive in Scoresby’s or Davis’ Strait.
+
+Straight to the north of us rose an imposing wall, 3280 feet high.
+Its banks of gneiss, with their varied colours, sloped at an angle of
+15° southwards. We named this reddish wall the “Devil’s Cape,” and
+were inclined to believe that behind it the Greenland coast, trending
+towards the north-west, was probably connected with Smith Sound.
+
+Towards evening, in the far distance to the north, appeared fresh
+monstrous mountain chains, with outlying islands. We could not now
+tell whether we had to do with an entirely insular opening or with an
+enormous bay, as we were not in a position to give a decided opinion.
+Under such circumstances, our orders were to keep to the outer edge of
+the coast, from which we were already separated by the far-advancing
+land of Koldewey Island. So we continued our course in a north-easterly
+direction.
+
+On such a voyage of discovery, it may be laid down as a useful rule
+to keep at least from five to ten English miles from the coast,
+occasionally landing to climb some high look-out. Circuitous routes are
+thus saved, projecting points only being touched without hugging the
+coast-line: wrong roads are in this way avoided; and, above all, by
+these means the land-survey is correctly and quickly completed.
+
+The nearer one goes to the coast, the narrower will the horizon
+become, as much from cliffs as from low undulating shores.
+
+Our new course brought us, still on the 7th of April, into a huge waste
+of loose snow, of ever increasing depth, which stopped our further
+advance. Mock suns, with double circles, which hung with wonderful
+effect in the afternoon over the colossal rocks of Roon Bay, warned us
+of the approach of unfavourable weather.
+
+On the 8th, we continued our journey during a raging snow-storm. The
+“Devil’s” Cape, only one German mile distant, appeared with a faint
+outline, as if seen through a thick curtain. The snow, in which, in
+spite of the intense cold, we sank deeper and deeper, hindered us so
+much that, even with judicious alterations in the pulling, we were six
+hours making five English miles, and the slides of the sledge acted
+as a perfect plough. From increasing dysentery, the loss of the opium
+bottle was much felt.
+
+On the night of the 8th to the 9th some foxes attacked the remains of
+the frozen bear’s meat on the sledge.
+
+On the evening of the 9th, after a wearying march, we reached an island
+group (East Island) 650 feet high, in the middle of the large bay (Dove
+Bay), of which we climbed the highest summit, to inspect the nature of
+the land and explore our future course.
+
+The view from the heights showed us that, besides the one entrance,
+there was no other means of egress to the coast but by the narrow
+straits to the north of Koldewey Island; but still, in another point
+of view, the ascent of this height was of great interest; for we found
+that the westerly background of Dove Bay, which is filled with numerous
+moderately high-lying islands, formed a high mountainous country,
+separated by a large Fjord, and extending for sixty miles with glaciers
+and mountain tops, which we estimated at 6500 feet high. From the
+direction of some of these fjords, we conjectured that the one at the
+back of Ardencaple Bay communicated with the sounds of Bessel and Dove
+Bays.
+
+On all sides the chain was of wonderful beauty. Glacier cascades, more
+than a mile broad, fell from a snow plateau 4800 feet high, in the
+north-west. Icebergs of monstrous height, which on that very account we
+mistook for islands, were iced up in the interior of the bays.
+
+The rocks of East Island were polished to the summit, and cast in the
+most picturesque forms, and often, supported only by a small stone,
+huge erratic blocks rested on the ridges. These blocks had evidently
+fallen in the place and spot, and had not rolled there. Once, perhaps,
+they had been borne by ice-floes, dropped to the bottom of the sea, and
+this, in the course of time, had risen, or else the level of the sea
+might have sunk. At least, this seemed the only feasible explanation of
+their erratic appearance on the summit itself.
+
+Several hours’ drawing and work with the theodolite had completely
+numbed me by the time we left the mountain, the snowy slopes of which
+bore traces of bears and ptarmigan.
+
+On the 10th of April we kept in an easterly direction, towards the
+north end of the most northerly of the Koldewey Islands. Violently
+drifting snow, with heavy atmosphere, increased snow-blindness, and
+drowsiness paralyzed all of us. Nearly the whole day long did we take
+a picture produced by the Fata Morgana for real land. Cape Heligoland,
+the north-west corner of the rocky island, which we reached in the
+evening, consists of very thin layers of hornblende-schist, with
+distinct traces of glacial detritus. For the first time, in spite of
+the lowness of the temperature, we saw the snow melt on the rocks, from
+the now increasing power of the sun.
+
+On the morning of the 11th of April we had again 27° Fahr. below zero.
+In an almost northerly direction, and after that, by reconnoitring, we
+had fully convinced ourselves that any attempt to reach the outer coast
+edge would be attended with great loss of time, we continued our way
+along the inner part of Dove Bay, and reached the end of our actual
+sledge journey in a bay bounded by an easterly-lying plateau, 975 feet
+high. This we called Storm Bay, and not without a cause. The cape
+bounding Dove Bay, to the east, we named Cape Bismarck (76° 47′).
+
+On the 12th we climbed to this plateau during a violent snow-storm,
+which effectually prevented any great geographical acquisition.
+Returning to the tent, a raging storm broke over us, and a fresh flood
+of snow fell, lasting three days. During this time we ate almost
+nothing, as our store of provisions threatened to disappear altogether.
+Scarcely ever was the fast of Passion week (14th April) more strictly
+observed than it was by us.
+
+Not until the 15th could we leave the tent. The three days of
+inactivity had diminished our strength; faint, hungry, and thirsty,
+we started upon our last stretch of journey to the north, leaving the
+tent behind us, and taking only a covering. Want of provisions, which
+necessitated our returning, forbade our extending the journey further.
+Some musk oxen, which we came upon unexpectedly, were clever enough
+not to prove the range of the rifle, and out-manœuvred Ellinger, who,
+after making a wide circuit, thought to come close upon them. In deep
+snow we accomplished the thirty miles there and back to a mountain more
+than 1080 feet high, which rose above the plateau stretching along the
+coast.
+
+We had crossed the 77th degree of latitude! Like so many of our
+predecessors, we, too, longed to lift the veil hanging over the whole
+of the Arctic world, so opposed to the mandate, “Thus far shalt thou
+go, and no further;” and, like so many others, found that our object
+gained fell far short of our bold flights of fancy; and that, resting
+after endless troubles at the end of our journey, we still looked in
+vain for the solution of the many riddles which science expected of
+us. The conjecture, once broached, of an open Arctic Sea, we could,
+from our stand-point, only reject as idle. To the furthest point of the
+horizon the sea was covered with a solid covering of ice, over which,
+had it not been for the want of provisions, we could have continued our
+sledge journey. The outer coast-line stretched in an almost northerly
+direction; to the north-west, the prospect was closed in by lofty
+ice-covered mountains, only a few miles distant.
+
+The question, in which direction Greenland now extended, had thus far
+found no solution. The great number of inland maritime districts, the
+everywhere striking division of land which, in a favourable bright
+evening, stood out so plainly, gave room to the conjecture that the
+chief mass of land (if this should be a continent), probably trended
+off to the north-west, in 76° Lat., and that we as yet had only to do
+with outlying islands; this, at least, appeared as likely as a north
+and south continuation of the coast, as arbitrarily represented on
+charts for many years past.
+
+A feeling of awe steals over the most thoughtless when his feet stands
+on virgin ground, and there lies before him a world on which, from the
+beginning of time, no European eye has ever rested.
+
+The North-German and Austrian flags fluttered in a light north wind
+peaceably side by side. We erected a cairn, which will doubtless remain
+unmoved, though perhaps never again seen to the end of time, and placed
+inside it a box containing a short account of our voyage. The document
+ran thus: “This spot, which lies in 77° 1′ North Lat. and 18° 50′ West
+Long. from Greenwich, was reached by the German Arctic Expedition in
+sledges (the last three German miles on foot) starting from the winter
+harbour by Sabine Island, after an absence from the ship of twenty-two
+days.”
+
+The storms, which for eight days kept us in the tent, and partly the
+great difficulties of the journey, as well as the want of provisions,
+prevented us from advancing further. The coast which falls off rugged
+to the east stretches into a plateau for about 1500 feet further to
+the north. The sea, as far as the eye could reach (about seventy-five
+miles) offered one continuous surface of ice. The land ice, which is
+perfectly free from lumps, and is and has to all appearances been fast
+for years, stretches at least ten miles from the coast. The weather was
+very clear at sea, particularly to the east, in which not a sign of
+water was perceptible.
+
+Good Friday, 15th April, 1870.
+
+Karl Koldewey, Commander of the Expedition; Julius Payer,
+first-lieutenant; Thomas Klentzer, Peter Ellinger, sailors. Captain
+Koldewey remarks: “We put up the telescope of the theodolite on a
+distant ice-block, and let it stand for some time, in order to prove
+the motion of the ice, if there was any; but the ice-block remained
+stationary, as we fully expected, as the heavy sea ice seemed to be
+closely joined to the land ice. Fully convinced that perhaps never, or
+at least only in very particularly favourable, years, could any ship
+advance along this coast, we set out on our return journey; the ice
+gave one the impression of a rampart built for eternity. With sledges
+it is possible, if the equipment is adequate, and the strength of the
+Expedition is concentrated upon them, to go considerably beyond 80°
+Lat. This is greatly facilitated by the quantity of game, by which, to
+a certain extent, the stock of provisions may be renewed.
+
+We got nine shots, and at half-past three p.m. began our return to the
+tent.
+
+Captain Koldewey had finished his study of the situation of the ice
+in the east, and Payer his work of land surveying, and had collected
+some mosses, lichen, saxifrage, and some specimens of granite, syenite,
+and hornblende-gneiss. The greater part of our return journey was
+made under increasing snow falls; and soon after reaching the tent,
+completely exhausted, the roaring north wind began, interrupted by
+short periods of calm, until it rose to a regular storm.
+
+From our critical position with regard to provisions for our return
+journey to the ship we were in the meantime happily freed. Those who
+had been left behind in the tent had succeeded in killing two musk
+oxen, which on our return they triumphantly exhibited. Some willow,
+gathered under difficulties, gave us plenty of fuel--and this we might
+thank for enabling us to obtain water--which with the meat formed
+a luxurious meal. Merely the flesh was cut from the creatures, and
+together with the hams packed on the sledge. This, together with a bear
+which we killed a few days later, lasted until we reached the ship.
+By degrees we had accustomed ourselves to eat reindeer, walrus, seal,
+bear, and musk oxen raw, and indeed fresh killed, for the nourishment
+contained in the fresh meat overcame the disagreeable taste of
+train-oil, and the great decrease of our stock of spirit compelled us
+to do so.
+
+Only at first did we object: tufts of hair, wool from our coverlids,
+with coffee, bread dust, pepper, and juniper-berries (the contents
+of the sacks had become partly mixed), the remains of bears’ grease,
+frozen butter, and the rest of the soup left at the last meal; we were
+only too glad to swallow all when at last necessity compelled.
+
+The snow-storm lasted till the 16th April, and the temperature suddenly
+rose for a few hours to 17° Fahr., which caused the tiresome thawing
+of the snow in the tent. Not till five p.m., when we started, was the
+atmosphere still; some feet of fresh snow had fallen, and still the
+storm raged; the clouds lay close to the earth--only occasionally for
+a moment could we see the long wall of Devil’s Cape in bluish colours
+far to the south-west. The road back to Cape Heligoland was traversed
+slowly and silently. Beyond that was the large snowy waste south of
+Dove Bay. We waded through it during Easter time, as step by step we
+sank up to the thighs through the crusted surface, and in spite of the
+greatest exertions could only make a short day’s journey. Panting and
+almost bent double we tugged at the traces; with struggles the sledge
+followed, sinking deep into the snow-dust, almost as much swimming as
+gliding.
+
+We did not now depend much upon the daylight, as the sun only remained
+a short time below the horizon. We slept in the day, marched during
+the night, and at midnight had a short rest in the tent, rendered very
+painful by the frost.
+
+Shortly after midnight the sun rose blood-red above the faint violet
+silhouette of the mountain ridge of the most northerly discovered land
+(King William’s Land), and brightly shone the rocky front of Cape
+Peschel towering in the waste. Radiant lay the endless snow-fields in a
+yellowish rosy shimmer, over which the wind rolls thick veils of snow,
+resembling in effect of colour, from the illumination of the low-lying
+sun, an undulating flow of molten steel,[68] driving away over the
+diamond-sparkling road, and the long bluish shadows of the men breaking
+through the snowy masses as they knocked against each other in their
+violent and unequal motion, a spectacle and a work for the cursed,
+which Dante might have held up to the coryphees of his infernal regions.
+
+During the short rests on our return journey we employed ourselves by
+splitting the frozen flesh into strips--as hard as oak--to put into the
+kettle with the soup or coffee, that we might the better enjoy it.
+
+Only by enduring the extremes of hunger and thirst, and enjoying the
+smallest possible quantity of sleep, is the Arctic traveller enabled to
+reach high latitudes. After a few weeks his strength greatly decreases,
+his rations steadily lessen, the baggage he has to draw seems to
+increase, the nightly chills, the disturbed digestion from insufficient
+nourishment, the cold, and so on, lead to depression or sickness,
+particularly to dysentery. The tongue is often covered with blisters
+from taking the food boiling hot. The constant change from wet to frost
+leads to wounds in the limbs, to the utter rotting and destruction of
+clothes, as well as to other internal evils, at last we went about in
+little else than torn stockings. Upon leaving the tent after several
+days’ snow-storm one felt all the feebleness of convalescence. With
+gnawing hunger drowsiness was combined, which so overcame some of our
+party that they dragged with closed eyes, only half awake, and between
+the short pauses sank at once to sleep. Of course they had to be
+awakened immediately.
+
+As we struck our tent at six a.m. on the 17th of April, the light-lying
+snow was four feet deep. On the 18th the cold again reached 13° Fahr.,
+the daily distance made under the greatest exertions attendant upon
+great exhaustion, was but a few nautical miles. For hours together
+icebergs already passed seemed unchanged in point of distance. Not
+until the 19th did our road improve, when we slept better than we had
+done for a long time. One single sunny morning with moderate cold, how
+it raised the spirits and quieted the nerves!
+
+Everywhere from the direction of the snow-drifts could we tell the
+local change of the prevailing wind. On the 20th, south of Devil’s
+Cape, we killed a bear which was on the point of attacking us in the
+tent; its fat freed us for some time (from the increasing want of
+fuel to melt the snow) from the fatiguing and precarious task of
+willow-seeking on the neighbouring coast, as well as from the further
+destruction of our sledge which had already been stripped of every
+available piece of wood.
+
+A short visit to Peschel Island, which lies over against the cape
+of the same name, during the journey of the 21st, convinced me once
+more of the great identity of the geological structure with the old
+crystal line formation belonging to the East Greenland coast. The
+island consisted of alternate strata of amphibolite and gneiss.
+Everywhere were to be seen large blocks of thirty-three cubic feet
+of hornblende-rock, and glacial detritus, which attained a maximum
+elevation of 229 feet.
+
+On the 22nd a bear attacked us while dragging, and was killed. A piece
+of his skin was taken with us and the head laid with the remainder.
+We then had to put up with drifting snow exactly resembling a storm,
+though it did not prevent us from advancing, as we had the wind at our
+backs and had made a sail of the empty sacks, which greatly lightened
+our load; indeed, so much so for some distance, that the sledge ran
+with but very moderate pulling. During such snow-drifting it often
+happened that we had not the slightest idea where the land lay.
+
+The snow-drifting lasted through the 23rd, its numbing influence being
+increased by some hours’ unsheltered stay on the peninsula of Haystack,
+where we tried in vain to sever the head of a bear, killed some time
+before, to take with us.
+
+A troop of foxes, which for weeks had been gnawing at the frozen flesh,
+would scarcely be driven away, and then were constantly returning.
+
+The temperature of the last few days had risen to 3° Fahr.; but on the
+24th and 25th April it fell again to -13°.
+
+One of the sailors, a Frankfort man, Peter Ellinger (called Hans), the
+heartiest companion and the most difficult to replace, had greatly
+suffered[69] from excessive exertion and the frost; and as a great deal
+depended upon his being with us in the expedition for exploring the
+great Fjords to the north-west of Ardencaple Bay in the next sledge
+journey (which we were to begin after eight days’ rest, and which would
+last for four weeks), Payer and he left the sledge, in order to reach
+the ship and the doctor as soon as possible.
+
+On the 26th they helped to drag the sledge from twelve p.m. to
+half-past eight a.m., when they started alone with some provisions and
+melted water, which however soon froze on their bodies, across the
+snow-fields to the south, the sledge following slowly. The snow soon
+began to lose its hardness, and the nearer we came to land the looser
+and deeper it became from the drifts. The sight of the well-known walls
+and capes which had become our home, gave to our wishes and hopes a
+quiet security.
+
+But our quarter-master had not accomplished the day’s march of forty
+miles to the rocky coast of Sabine Island, on the south-east shore of
+which the winter harbour lay, when the dreaded signs of a storm arose.
+The curtains of snow began to rise from the ground, causing them to
+regret the furs they had left behind; and as they could neither reach
+the sledge nor the ship in time, they were placed in a somewhat serious
+predicament.
+
+However the storm subsided, the sun came out and shone brightly
+over the land as we set foot on the shore of the island, whilst the
+softening of the snow compelled us to raise the tent earlier than
+usual, and to take our last disposable meal. We slept at the foot of a
+cliff in Clavering Straits. Ellinger laid down on the rugged edge of
+the coast, and Payer sat beside to watch, the gun lying cocked by his
+side.
+
+With what delight could one enjoy the bright sunshine in this wild
+scenery. The strand ice began to whisper and to crack with the
+tide--the recollection of awakening spring at home lay alluringly near.
+Hans slept softly: it was a pity to have to wake him in a few minutes,
+which we must do for fear he should freeze.
+
+Then a bird’s note sounded from the walls above, the first greeting
+of the awakening spring! After Payer had also rested, the journey was
+continued, avoiding the long road along the shore; and, though in
+stockings, they had to traverse sharp rocky slopes, blocks, and lumps
+of snow over high chains of mountains; and from the summit of the last
+they looked down upon the winter harbour.
+
+There lay the ship still surrounded with ice. The coast-land, which
+we had left in its winter dress, had again donned its characteristic
+brown, and looked quite strange.
+
+Payer and Ellinger descended from the mountain. Full of joyful
+expectation did they approach the ship, which struck them (as it did
+us afterwards) as being wonderfully large and stately. It was midnight
+when the travellers reached it, after a march of twenty-one hours and
+a half. A black face looked up astonished from the engine-room. It
+was that of the engineer Krauschner, who was busily cleaning all up
+for the summer cruise. The unusual footsteps on deck called Copeland,
+Börgen, and Pansch up armed, and the meeting was attended with as much
+excitement as if they had been separated for years.
+
+At Captain Koldewey’s desire, Sengstacke immediately came back to
+meet us with provisions, and on the following day (27th April) we all
+reached the ship together.
+
+After such an expedition there is great danger in entering suddenly
+under a warm roof. Upon reaching the cabin, the blood rushed
+immediately to the surface.
+
+What a wonder the ship seemed to us! A cabin--which had now been turned
+into a carpenter’s shop--in which one could stand upright; boxes on
+which we could sit. Here, after five weeks, we could once more undress
+ourselves; here a berth, with mattress and coverings, invited us
+instead of the sleeping-sack.
+
+Our exceptional circumstances caused the cook to wink at the
+consumption of his melted snow-water, to which we applied ourselves
+unmolested: to satisfy ourselves was really hard work. For four hours
+we ate, without intermission, of everything that came in our way: large
+pieces of roasted bears’ flesh (they had been visited by bears in our
+absence, and had killed some), bacon, vegetables, ship’s biscuit,
+bread, butter, cheese, wine, chocolate, black coffee, and so on.
+
+The change to rest was with some the beginning or the climax of ailing
+symptoms, such as relaxation, rheumatic affections, cramp, dysentery,
+and gastric ailments. But we were not allowed much time for repose, for
+a few days after we started to explore Ardencaple Inlet.
+
+This account of one of our five sledge journeys, which occupied three
+months on the whole, will naturally raise the question whether, after
+all these privations, science was in any way the gainer? Such was
+the case. The discovery of a land stretching over several degrees of
+latitude and longitude; the reaching the most northerly point ever yet
+trodden in East Greenland; the conviction that the land was wonderfully
+broken up and might possibly resolve itself into a group of islands;
+the certainty from our geodetical work that a future measurement of
+degrees would meet with no hindrance from climate, configuration of
+ground, or atmospheric condition; the enriching of the geological
+knowledge of our terrestrial globe; the confirmation of the conjecture
+that the most recent geological formations were certainly not wanting
+in the far north (as people were at one time inclined to believe); the
+discovery of enormous glaciers, the surroundings of which perfectly
+agreed with Peschel’s theory of the origin of fjords; the proof that
+the Esquimaux must long since have deserted the north-east coast,[70]
+and that the land is completely uninhabited; observations upon the
+diffusion of certain plants and animals; upon the almost exclusive
+dominions of the north wind; and lastly, the experience that the
+navigability of the so-called coast water suffers great interruption
+from the ice masses in the Arctic current, amongst the local
+islands,--surely these may be considered as somewhat valuable results.
+
+The following Table gives, the observations of temperature during
+Captain Koldewey’s journey as compared with those taken at the same
+time at the winter quarters on Sabine Island. The readings took place
+from a thermometer agreeing with the standard instrument on board,
+and noting the time at three and four periods during the day, from
+which the simple mean was taken. For Sabine Island the daily mean was
+reckoned from the same hours.
+
+
+      LONG SLEDGE JOURNEY NORTHWARDS. DISCOVERY OF KING WILLIAM’S
+                                ISLAND.
+
+    ----------+---------+-------------------------+-----------+
+    |  Date.  |Latitude.|Mean Daily Temperature[71]| Excess of |
+    |         |         |           |             |Temperature|
+    |         |         |on Journey.|  on Sabine  | on Sabine |
+    |         |         |           |   Island.   |  Island.  |
+    ----------+---------+-----------+-------------+-----------+
+    ||March 24|         |  -15°.25  |    -2°.65   |    12°.6  |
+    |   „   25|  74° 47′|  -26°.05  |   -11°.87   |   15°.18  |
+    |   „   26|      56′|  -24°.47  |   -19°.07   |    5°.4   |
+    |   „   27|         |   -9°.62  |    -5°.57   |    4°.05  |
+    |   „   28|  75°  8′|  -12°.1   |    -7°.15   |    5°.95  |
+    |   „   29|      11′|   -4°.    |    -4°.67   |   -0°.67  |
+    |   „   30|      11′|   -1°.52  |    -3°.1    |   -1°.58  |
+    |   „   31|      14′|  -15°.7   |    -7°.37   |    8°.33  |
+    |April   1|      25′|  -21°.77  |   -15°.02   |    6°.65  |
+    |  „     2|         |   -2°.2   |    -3°.55   |   -1°.53  |
+    |  „     3|  75° 37′|  -12°.77  |    -0°.17   |   12°.65  |
+    |  „     4|      49′|   -7°.6   |    -3°.77   |    3°.83  |
+    |  „     5|         |   13°.55  |     6°.35   |   -7°.2   |
+    |  „     6|  76°  6′|    9°.95  |    10°.62   |    0°.67  |
+    |  „     7|      20′|   -3°.77  |     4°.1    |    7°.87  |
+    |  „     8|      32′|  -13°.45  |     2°.75   |   10°.70  |
+    |  „     9|      38′|  -10°.52  |    -4°.45   |    6°.07  |
+    |  „    10|      42′|   -9°.62  |    -3°.55   |    6°.07  |
+    |  „    11|      50′|  -21°.77  |   -14°.12   |    7°.65  |
+    |  „    12|      50′|  -11°.65  |    -9°.85   |    1°.80  |
+    |  „    13|         |    1°.3   |     0°.72   |    0°.57  |
+    |  „    14|         |    7°.02  |     8°.82   |    1°.8   |
+    |  „    15| 77°   0′|    2°.3   |     7°.25   |    4°.95  |
+    |  „    16|         |    8°.15  |     8°.15   |    0°.0   |
+    |  „    17|         |    8°.15  |     7°.25   |   -0°.90  |
+    |  „    18|         |  -13°.0   |     0°.95   |   11°.05  |
+    |  „    19|  76° 33′|    3°.2   |     7°.7    |    4°.5   |
+    |  „    20|      20′|    4°.77  |     9°.72   |    4°.95  |
+    |  „    21|       6′|    7°.2   |    15°.12   |    7°.92  |
+    |  „    22|  75° 48′|    0°.5   |     1°.62   |    1°.12  |
+    |  „    23|      24′|   -4°.22  |     1°.85   |    6°.07  |
+    ----------+---------+-----------+-------------+-----------+
+    |Mean temperatures  |   -5°.80  |    -0°.85   |    4°.95  |
+    ----------+---------+-----------+-------------+-----------+
+
+[71] In degrees of Fahrenheit reduced from Reaumur’s Scale. (_Tr._)
+
+The mean temperature on the sledge journey was therefore 4·95 degrees
+lower than it was at the same time at Sabine Island. Hence we concluded
+that the temperature decreases towards the north, although the
+protected position of the winter harbour was partly the cause of its
+greater warmth.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XI.
+
+         SLEDGE JOURNEY TO ARDENCAPLE INLET, FROM 8TH TO 29TH
+                            MAY, 1870.[72]
+
+   Fitting out.--High temperature.--Bad prospects for
+   the journey.--Great difficulty of progress in deep
+   snow.--Bears.--Impossibility of passing Fligely Fjord.--March
+   to the eastern side of Kuhn Island.--Geological
+   excursion.--Shooting of plants, and animal life.--Mieders
+   snow-blind.--Bastian Bay passed.--Anchoring by Cape
+   Bremen.--Ascent of Cape Bremen (3080 feet) by Lieut. Payer,
+   in company with Herzberg and Wagner.--Alteration in plan of
+   journey.--Exploration of Kuhn Island.--Erection of a Cairn on
+   the Peak of Cape Bremen.--Return march commenced.--Geology of
+   Kuhn Island.--Ascent of 3670 feet up the Black Wall on Kuhn
+   Island by Lieut. Payer, with Herzberg and Wagner.--Running
+   water.--Determination of the height of the Black Wall.--Cape
+   Berlin reached.--Arrival at the ship.
+
+
+Returning from our sledge journey on the 27th April, we found the ship
+lying as we had left her, there being still seven feet thickness of
+ice in the harbour. Before the middle of July we could not expect our
+release from the ice, and then our exploring expeditions would begin.
+The interim could not be better employed than by repeated sledge
+journeys. The investigation of Ardencaple Inlet and the fjords opening
+into it, and then, too, the possible connexion of this bay with the
+sounds lying north-west of Kuhn Island, formed a most interesting
+object of investigation, and that at no great distance. But above all
+things speed was indispensable; for had we not in prospect the dreadful
+state of the snowy waste which must inevitably attend the rapid thaw of
+an Arctic midsummer?
+
+After ten days’ rest those who had been suffering from dysentery,
+cramp, and rheumatism (the effects of the previous journey), had
+somewhat recovered; a further reason for avoiding longer delay,
+although we were unfortunately obliged to leave Klentzer and our brave
+Ellinger behind.
+
+The hope of finding the ice in Fligely Fjord free from snow, as in the
+previous autumn, decided us in choosing this road to Ardencaple Inlet.
+The dread of a repetition of our late sufferings from want of food made
+us burden ourselves with all we could take, but the dead-weight was
+lightened as much as possible by the general sleeping-sack being made
+of light woollen stuff, and by reducing the size of the tent.
+
+Our weapons consisted of three breech-loaders and a hundred cartridges;
+our instruments, of a theodolite, aneroid, and thermometer. We also
+took thirty bottles of spirits, sixty lbs. of melted walrus and bear’s
+fat for fuel, and nine bottles of ginger in a tin can. Our clothes were
+lighter, as we had relieved ourselves of the fur. In case the loosening
+of the coast ice should prevent our reaching the ship, we laid down a
+provision depôt at Cape Berlin.
+
+Journeys at the end of the spring time are very different from those
+at the beginning. In the first instance, one has to suffer from the
+frost, and in the second, from the glowing summer heat, although in the
+shade the thermometer is still below freezing-point. Very troublesome,
+too, is the reflected sunlight on the snow-fields on this journey:
+the temperature rose in the tent during the day, on the 9th May, 53°
+Fahr.; on the 10th, 65° Fahr.; and on the 26th, to 77° Fahr., we were
+in a steam resembling a pot on the fire. The stony snow-fields change
+into pools of water at the end of May and the beginning of June, making
+the crossing, at all times troublesome, still more difficult by the
+overflowing tide. In the first days of May the cold decreased; the
+temperature rose from 50° to 68° Fahr.; the sun did not set; and the
+storms had suddenly ceased.
+
+So far we could not wish for more favourable conditions for travelling,
+as we started five strong, on the 8th May (Tramnitz, Herzberg, Wagner,
+Mieders, and Payer), the others accompanying us as far as the next cape.
+
+Snow had fallen some days before; but, besides this, the quantity of
+baggage (14 cwt.) delayed our progress, so that we were four hours
+reaching the south-west point of Sabine Island. A small isthmus covered
+with snow, which we had to cross here in order to avoid a wide circuit,
+showed us the great difficulty of dragging the sledge over even a small
+bit of land. Places quite free from snow would prevent it entirely. It
+must, therefore, be understood that journeys of this kind can only take
+place on an ice-covered sea.
+
+We now travelled independent of daylight, as the sun never sets, so
+that on the morning of the 9th of May (2° Fahr.), after reaching the
+west coast of Sabine Island, separated from the mainland by Clavering
+Straits, we pitched our tents opposite the Kronenberg.
+
+Signs of bad weather increased from the north; grey and vapourish lay
+the heavens above us. We slept during the day, and travelled in the
+afternoon. The snow became deeper and deeper, and it was with great
+difficulty that we could bring the sledge along; completely exhausted,
+we rested some hours by Cape Berlin. On the 10th of May, after four
+hours’ march, we had scarcely made half a German mile (two miles and a
+half English), and in this distance had sunk deep in the snow at every
+step; only by “Aussingen,”[73] with jerks, could one get the sledge
+along--a most depressing and fatiguing expedient. But the prospect in
+the Fjord, beyond a snow waste, two German miles and a half broad,
+which we still had to cross, was somewhat more favourable, and greatly
+raised our hopes; and, indeed, we did find a good road, as on the
+evening of the 10th of May (19° Fahr.) we started for Cape Hamburg, at
+the mouth of the Fligely Fjord. As a rule, we could now make more than
+260 steps within five minutes; and as on the morning of the 11th (19°
+Fahr.) we stopped, the reddish gneiss wall of this promontory, with its
+winding strata and masses of granite, was only one nautical mile and a
+half distant. At its foot we hoped to find some smooth ice.
+
+In order to lighten the sledge as much as possible, we proposed
+erecting a depôt here, so that all articles of clothing that could be
+dispensed with, as well as all provisions for the return journey, were
+placed in a sack.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 452._
+
+  DEEP SNOW TRAVELLING.]
+
+In the evening we started again (19.5° Fahr.), but at the very next
+step the difficulties increased to such a pitch that we were almost in
+despair. From seventy steps a minute it fell to twenty, and at last we
+stood still. The sledge sank in softened snow, and was scarcely to be
+moved, even by our taking circuits of a wide radius. We ourselves,
+during the last three days of great exertion, had sunk step by step up
+to our knees. That, under such circumstances, it was no easy matter
+to get the sledge along, need be hardly said. For days together the
+monotonous rhythm of the “Yo! heave, oh!” might be heard at the foot of
+the walls.
+
+The bright light of the white flakes worked the exhausted travellers
+almost to madness. Only the third part or half of the baggage could be
+carried at a time; we were, therefore, obliged to go over the same bit
+of road three and sometimes five times. Every ten steps the sledge had
+to be formally dug out; indeed, the bit passed over was like a hollow
+way, and as the snow became softer, and the tide rose from the edge of
+the coast, penetrating the under layers, it became like a perfect bog,
+and we could do nothing but kneel and pull along in the snow. As by
+this means one could only advance a few hundred steps daily, and that
+our last night’s encampment was still within gunshot, it seemed almost
+impossible for us ever to reach the land, although we had approached
+the coast within half a nautical mile.
+
+Thus the 11th and 12th of May passed; the snow-storms of the last few
+days had lost their terrific character of the earlier months, and
+offered no serious hindrance. The continued jerking forward of the
+sledge had given us all a violent headache, the throbbing of which was
+most painful. We had carried the greater part of the baggage 800 paces
+forward--our whole day’s march--and had returned to fetch the tent and
+the remainder, but, before taking it down, we rested for half an hour,
+when, upon going out, we saw three bears inspecting it, the result of
+which might prove its total destruction. Quickly we fired some alarm
+shots. This succeeded: but we feared that they had already had time to
+do much damage. I was particularly anxious about my large work, for in
+it was the whole material of the geographical discoveries of the four
+sledge journeys, and its destruction would have been an irreparable
+loss.
+
+Nothing could have impressed us more with the astonishing strength
+possessed by this creature than the incredible agility with which it
+escaped, although sinking deeply into the bottomless snow; we, on
+the other hand, were a long time reaching the place of apprehended
+destruction. The straps of my theodolite case had been torn off, and
+it had received several bites; the bears had devoured a piece of sugar
+and a pound and a half of cheese, our whole store of these luxuries, as
+well as every stearine candle, and had scattered the bread; but they
+had only bitten the mouth of the can of ginger flat, before throwing
+it away, and had only pulled out the cork of the spirit-can. Had not
+the latter, by some lucky chance, kept upright, the whole of our store
+would have been lost. Even the india-rubber bottles were either cut
+in pieces or totally eaten up; one corner was bitten out of a packet
+of tobacco, but evidently spat out again. The climbing-pole had been
+carried some distance by the young bear, no doubt as a plaything; we
+found it again, but without the straps, which had been eaten. My book
+was probably too tough; they had only gnawed it.
+
+Our further advance was not easier on the 13th of May; the thoroughly
+softened snow-drifts fell with a rush as we neared them. The transport
+of the different lots took place under endless difficulties; at noon
+the temperature only rose to 21° Fahr., but owing to the directness of
+the sun’s rays, it caused a glowing heat.
+
+As at last we arrived at the hummocks of coast ice, broken by the
+tide, and also at the foot of the wall, and had conveyed the sledge
+with much trouble over ice barriers and water-pools, we discovered to
+our horror that the Fligely Fjord, instead of being covered, as we had
+conjectured, with smooth ice, was filled with endless snow. Still we
+need not give up all hope; it was just possible that the depth of snow
+might decrease towards the back of the Fjord. Again we started on a
+weary road between the ice barriers and the rocky shore, and at last
+landed on a somewhat higher snow surface--a horrible prospect! Did we
+not know the difficulties hidden under this seeming smoothness?
+
+The mountains round the Fjord were, with the exception of the steep
+walls, perfectly white; the winter storms, in conjunction with much
+heavier falls than we had had in our winter harbour, seemed to have
+borne the masses of snow along with them, and dropped them on the front
+of the mountains, and sprinkled the Fjord at the same time. Nowhere
+could we see that stripe coming from the north caused by the storm, and
+always so striking on the snow-fields of the outer coast.
+
+Snow-buntings twittered cheerfully in our neighbourhood, a raven
+croaked from the heights, and we were not a little astonished at the
+sight of a musk-ox looking down at us from a steep overhanging rock
+several hundred feet high. We had left the sledge behind, and whilst
+Wagner had wandered in a southerly direction towards the middle of
+the Fjord, Tramnitz and Payer went along the shore, to investigate
+the possibility of further advance. But, as far as we could judge
+from a good height, as well as from the great depth of the snow which
+lay on all sides, we were convinced of the impossibility of reaching
+Ardencaple Inlet through Fligely Sound; so, after many hours’ fruitless
+march, we returned to our tent.
+
+There remained, therefore, nothing for it but to return by the
+difficult road, and seek to reach our goal by going round the east side
+of Kuhn Island. But the exertions of the last few days had so weakened
+us that we agreed to take a short rest before starting, but we had
+scarcely done so when we were surprised by a spring-tide, and we had to
+pack the sledge and start again, with divided luggage, at three a.m. on
+the 14th of May.
+
+Fortunately the sky had clouded in the mean time, and the temperature
+had sunk to 10.5° Fahr. The snow-bog dried, the snow hardened, and
+we broke through but seldom, and in three hours we reached the
+camping-place which we had left some days before on the border of the
+snow waste. At one stroke our spirits rose so, that after a short sleep
+we made another long stretch that same day, and pitched our tent on the
+15th of May, at seven a.m. (5.5° Fahr.)
+
+On the soft easterly hanging slopes of Kuhn Island we saw twenty
+head of musk oxen, about 2000 paces from us. Tramnitz, our cleverest
+hunter, managed to creep near them by circuitous ways, whilst Payer
+and Herzberg undertook a geological excursion to a deep ravine on the
+coast, and made the interesting discovery that the gneiss granite
+ridge, which towered in such beautiful forms above the east coast of
+the island, was rich in extraordinary petrifactions, in strata of
+fuller’s clay, coal loam, and sandstone. The same formation leading
+to coal we had seen the previous summer on the south side of the
+island. Tramnitz was less fortunate; he returned empty-handed, with
+a broken gun and torn clothing, informing us that he had been thrown
+down by a musk-ox and trampled on. In a hunting expedition with Wagner,
+somewhat later, one of them was killed.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 456._
+
+  DEATH OF THE MUSK-OX.]
+
+The rise of the mean temperature, and uninterrupted daylight had in the
+meanwhile entirely altered the physiognomy of the land. Organic life
+woke once more in the few plants peculiar to the Arctic climate; under
+the snow bridges and ice vaults might be heard the whisper of trickling
+water; long trains of eider ducks came from the south; light-grey
+lemmings rushed terrified over the stony rubbish; yellowish brown
+caterpillars crawled with fruitless industry over the same; white hares
+revelled amongst the young shoots of moss; slender reindeer frequented
+the deep furrows of the glacier streams; and over the sunny surface of
+the water, although some distance from us, rose the curious head of the
+seal.
+
+Meanwhile we had lost so much time that the success of our undertaking
+depended greatly upon a steady favourable road for the future, and
+above all whether the snow-fields over which our return road lay were
+accessible. At last we were entirely dependent upon hunting; for before
+the musk-ox was killed, which gave us fifty-six pounds of meat, our
+provisions had consisted chiefly of coffee and hard bread.
+
+Mieders had become snow-blind; so upon starting in the evening we put
+him in the midst of us to drag the sledge. The application of wet
+bandages during the march, (which a month before had been impossible,)
+relieved him in the course of a week from this painful evil. The
+nights were foggy and sultry, and Tramnitz, who until now had attended
+to the observations of temperature, was also snow-blind.[74]
+
+The snow was now soft again; and again began the horrible “Aussingen,”
+and forward jerking of the sledge, and though we lightened it by
+leaving a sack behind a block of rock, we scarcely moved from the
+spot, and were obliged to encamp sooner than we intended from sheer
+exhaustion.
+
+On the 16th of May the temperature of the snow rose to 25.5° Fahr.;
+thick fog, and a heavy fall of snow prevented us starting again until
+the evening, and during the whole of that night’s march we could not
+see ten steps before us, we were constantly losing our course and were
+obliged at last to have recourse to the compass.
+
+On the 17th (14° Fahr.) despite a violent snow-storm we pressed
+onward, passed the mouth of the romantic Bay of Bastian, and arrived
+on the morning of the 18th at the foot of Cape Bremen, which forms the
+south-easterly corner of Ardencaple Inlet.
+
+The depth of the snow had confined our progress during the last few
+days to from three-quarters to one and a quarter German miles; and our
+strength from the exertion of pulling the sledge had greatly decreased.
+Icebergs only at a little distance seemed inaccessible.
+
+The period for successful sledge journeys was now quite over, and we
+had to climb half-way up to an horizontal stretching mass of dolerite,
+in order to decide whether it would be desirable either to advance
+through Ardencaple Inlet or undertake a geological examination of Kuhn
+Island and finish our trigonometrical survey.
+
+On the 19th therefore Payer, with Herzberg and Wagner climbed to a
+steep snow-field, then over a mountain steep which with rugged walls
+of gneiss fell in a mountain ridge towards Ardencaple Bay, the highest
+point of which we reached after a three and a half hour’s march.
+
+Clear weather favoured the extensive and highly interesting view from
+the Sattelberg and the Pendulum Island, as far as the northern edge
+of Koldewey Island. For eight hours we were able to sketch the whole
+of the panorama, and complete the triangle of our trigonometrical
+measurement. Ardencaple Inlet, far below us, was as well as Fligely
+Fjord covered with an uninterrupted sheet of snow, the nature and
+depth of which Tramnitz had undertaken to investigate; the large Fjord
+opening in the north-west corner of Ardencaple Bay we could follow from
+our standing point for at least fifty miles; it then seemed to curve
+inwards to the west, but thus far it lay as if sketched upon a map. At
+its exit west from the imposing and evidently crystalline mountain mass
+of Cape Klinkerfues, the Wildspitze, and the Matterhorns, lay countless
+icebergs enclosed. The existence of large glaciers in this Fjord could
+not be doubted, though few were visible.
+
+The snow surfaces between Kuhn and Shannon Islands were divided
+into two parts by a sharp line, the nearer one distinguished by its
+smoothness, and the further one by its undulatory character. But
+appearances were deceitful; for the smooth surface consisted of
+perfectly soft snow.
+
+The increasing difficulties of advancing, the decrease of our
+provisions, and lastly the advanced time of year, all warned us to
+return to the ship within a week. During that time it would have been
+impossible even under the most favourable condition of the snow, to
+investigate the Fjord to any extent, as from our elevated standing
+point we could see. We therefore decided to alter our plans on the spot
+and to give all the time we possibly could to the exploration of Kuhn
+Island. Events showed that we had made a happy choice.
+
+  [Illustration: DEPÔT ON KUHN ISLAND.]
+
+After raising a trigonometrical signal on the top, about six feet high,
+in the shape of a massive stone cone, we returned to our tent, which
+had been guarded by Mieders who was still snow-blind. An attempt to
+measure the height of the mountain by the aneroid had failed from its
+being disturbed.
+
+On the 20th May (17.5° Fahr.) we began our return march, the deserted
+camp forming as usual a deep hole in the snow.
+
+On the 21st (10° Fahr.) we reached the middle of a segmental projection
+on the east side of Kuhn Island which rose in undulations to a height
+of 1020 feet. This projection consisted of layers of slaty sandstone
+and marl, the petrifactions showing that this deposit was of the
+secondary formation, lying like a cloak on the westerly rising of
+crystalline stone. The surface of this formation was covered with an
+erratic covering of rubbish of the last-named stone.
+
+On the 22nd and 23rd we explored the individual strata of the
+formation; they showed a perfect agreement with those on the south side
+of Kuhn Island, a westerly incline of 7°, coal clay, petrifactions
+(Inocerames, Ammonites, Belemnites, &c.), bluish-grey fuller’s clay,
+thin stratas of marl, and rather coarse-grained granite alternated with
+each other.
+
+Coal-beds were nowhere to be seen. But about under the summit of the
+“black wall” we found some sandstone and small pieces of coal.
+
+Several masses of dolerite ran horizontally through the upper bank of
+the sedimentary layers.
+
+Hochstetter’s Promontory bore the same geological character, so that
+both these spots possibly belong to the later secondary sedimentary
+rocks, only interrupted by the sinking of Ardencaple Inlet.
+
+Much damage did our stay here cause amongst a herd of musk-oxen. On the
+21st Tramnitz shot a cow; on the 22nd Wagner surprised the whole herd
+while sleeping, and killed a bull; and on the following day another
+fell by Payer’s hand, who at once sketched the beast as it lay; and
+lastly Tramnitz brought home a calf and a hare.
+
+On the 24th, shortly before midnight, Payer, Herzberg, and Wagner
+started to climb the “black wall,” to convert this favourable position
+of the highest (3675 feet) mountain on the island into use for
+surveying purposes. The way led first through a high-lying valley
+enclosed between beautiful walls, from the ice basin of which ran
+slopes of snow at an inclination of 45°, interrupted at intervals
+by projecting rocks; then over some syenite gneiss and brown coal
+sandstone to the summit, after five hours’ march.
+
+This consists of a rugged mass about 155 feet high, in the shape of a
+dome, surrounded by slender dolerite columns. This sort of stone forms
+here, and in many other parts of Kuhn Island, a sort of causeway on the
+mountain ridge, frequently in connexion with dolerite amygdaloia.
+
+The climbing of this mountain was rendered particularly important by
+the discovery of a new sound, which seemed to connect the south-west
+corner of Fligely Fjord with Ardencaple Inlet. The pack-ice outside
+reached to the outer horizon, though there were several navigable
+channels to be seen.
+
+Payer finished his work in six hours; and, after erecting one massive
+stone cairn, we started for the tent, which we reached in four hours
+and a half.
+
+Not far from this now ran a rushing stream down a deep cleft filled
+with snow. It was the first time since September that we had water
+without melting, water to the full; it was also the first time that we
+were able to wash ourselves, and drink as much as we wanted.
+
+On the 25th of May the temperature rose to 32.9° Fahr. The dispersion
+of the snow went on quickly, and as we were constantly sinking in it a
+base was measured on the surface of the sea-ice, by the help of which
+we took the altitude of the Black Wall. Whilst we slept during the day
+the temperature rose in the tent to 73.5° Fahr.; we therefore now slept
+outside instead of inside the sleeping sack. Flies sunned themselves on
+the tent-walls, and the heat was as overpowering as under the leaden
+roofs of Venice. Rheumatism, pains in the loins, and similar affections
+now made their appearance, as for two months we had slept on the snow,
+without interruption, and it now melted under us from the warmth of the
+body and completely wetted us through.
+
+On the 25th, after the last geological excursion had been made, we
+began our return to the ship. The sledge was now as heavy as when we
+started, from the collection of petrifactions, musk-ox horns, minerals,
+skins, &c.
+
+On the 27th we reached Cape Berlin, after great exertion, and a slow
+march lastly through drifting snow over the snowy waste at the exit of
+Fligely Fjord.
+
+The deep snow-drifts at the foot of Cape Berlin had in the meanwhile
+changed into kind of teeth, from the warmth and a resisting paste which
+stuck to the sledge, making it very heavy. Once more did we suffer
+(28th May, 43° Fahr.) the already-described infliction of divided
+baggage and the deep sinking in the snow.
+
+Not until Clavering Straits did the road improve; when near the mouth
+of Falschen Bay we passed the night, in order to be ready the next
+day for the trigonometrical and topographical survey of a mountain
+more than 2275 feet high, remarkable for its craggy formation. Thick
+fog, however, frustrated this intention for the time, and we began our
+return to the ship on the 29th of May.
+
+We reached it after an absence of twenty-one days. The pool-covered ice
+of our winter harbour we found in an advanced stage of melting, which
+the rain of the next few days hastened.
+
+The sky soon cleared, and within a few days the ever-increasing
+temperature enticed out of the lately frozen soil of Greenland the
+first-fruits of a scanty Flora.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XII.
+
+            HUNTING AND ANIMAL LIFE IN EAST GREENLAND.[75]
+
+   The Polar bear.--Its aliment.--Migration of the bears.--Natural
+   History notes on the Polar bear.--Its curiosity.--Precautions
+   to be adopted in bear-hunting.--Their powerful vital
+   energy.--Sundry matters.--Arctic foxes.--Their natural
+   history.--The reindeer.--The musk-ox.--The walrus.--The
+   seal.--The Arctic hare.--Birds.--Sea animals, &c.
+
+
+Hunting often begins in Greenland, where it ends with us--in
+self-defence; but it possesses scientific interest for the zoologist,
+and the food obtained by it enables the explorer to remain longer away
+from the ship.
+
+There is the zoological, the geographical, and the pleasure hunt; the
+latter is of the least frequent occurrence.
+
+Hunting the bear or the walrus is attended with considerable danger;
+that of the musk-ox, reindeer, fox, birds, and sea-animals affords only
+amusement.
+
+The polar bear,[76] which, with his yellowish-white shaggy skin and
+black nose, forms a sharp contrast against the snow-fields at a
+long distance off, weighs from ten to twelve hundredweight, and far
+surpasses in size those specimens in zoological gardens or menageries
+(which are brought over young, and developed under such unfavourable
+circumstances); it is surpassed by neither the lion nor the tiger in
+point of strength, and is quite as dangerous. But the cold zone in
+which it lives[77] cools its blood; it is wary and mistrustful. The
+contradictory reports of their courage shows that one must never judge
+one specimen by another, but that each individual is guided by its need
+of food at the moment.
+
+It lives chiefly on seals, watching for them through the ice-fissures,
+and falls upon them whilst sunning themselves, with all the cunning of
+the tiger, and the same stealthy step. It also pursues the seal even
+when diving, for it is a powerful swimmer, and only the reindeer excels
+it in speed. Over jagged rocky declivities it climbs with cat-like
+dexterity. The roughness of its soles, its claws, and hairy paws,
+insure its safety equally on smooth or sloping ice-surfaces. Payer
+skinned the hind-feet of a bear we had killed, carefully cleaned them
+from all fat, rubbed them with alum, and wore them himself--they were
+beautiful warm stockings, for the bear had good soles. Unfortunately
+they were lost in a fire on board during the winter.
+
+As the seals remain chiefly among the pack-ice, or on its outer edge,
+so also the bear during the summer is a frequent visitor. It follows
+the seal-hunters step for step, in order to devour the skinned animals,
+or when revelling in excess swims to the carcase of a whale. The bear
+kills its prey before eating it, although it likes to play with it
+first. It rides on the floes in the Arctic current down to Iceland. It
+is often seen miles from land, and swims towards boats or ships, until
+driven back by shots. When glutted with the enjoyment of fat seals it
+varies its diet by ducks’ eggs, and a few hours is quite enough for it
+to clear a small island entirely.
+
+It is certainly hard for the Arctic traveller to be exposed to the
+tender mercies of a bear’s two-inch incisors; but a gun, and a pocket
+filled with cartridges, are a much more simple process than dragging a
+dead seal about after one. If you are unarmed, the slightest movement
+disquiets the bear, and provokes him to action. But it is a much more
+serious matter to meet him in the darkness, and be mistaken for a seal,
+a mistake only cleared up when it is too late. If you are armed, the
+coolness of his adversary inspires the bear with a certain amount of
+respect.
+
+But the bear also deserves our compassion. His life is one continued
+pursuit of food, although he is protected from the cold by a layer of
+fat several inches thick. Once we found in the stomach of one that had
+belonged to a besieging corps (which during the whole of the winter and
+spring had watched the frozen ship closely, and had forced us to be
+wonderfully cautious), nothing but a flannel lappet, which our tailor
+had thrown away, and in the case of many others it was quite empty.
+Sometimes the stomach of a dead bear contains nothing but water, and
+large pieces of sea-weed (_Laminaria_), so that hunger compels
+it to eat herbs. It is certainly no trifle in this world of frost,
+cold, and darkness, with its horrible snow-storms, that mountains only
+can offer sufficient obstacles to his wanderings for food amidst the
+chaotic crowding and towering ice-fields, surrounded by fissures, or
+floating out to sea on an ice-floe. Certainly its brown cousin in
+Europe lives in luxury compared with him, and is comparatively to be
+envied.
+
+In the early part of the year the layer of fat, which lies under the
+skin in the summer and autumn, quite fails. A large male bear, killed
+near the ship on the 1st of April, 1870, was dreadfully lean; while a
+female bear, shot on Sabine Island, the 7th of July, 1870, was rather
+fat.
+
+With regard to the much agitated question as to whether the bear
+hybernates, we could make no direct observation. But we can say at what
+time of year we saw them. On the 10th of January, 1870, one came to the
+ship, and we hunted him, but he escaped; on the 13th of January, 1870,
+Theodore Klentzer was pursued by one; on the 6th of March, Dr. Börgen
+was attacked by another; afterwards they visited us daily. When I add
+that Copeland fought with one near Cape Borlase Warren, on the 28th of
+October, 1869, one may easily see that their winter sleep, if they have
+any, must either be very short or very disturbed. On the 9th of March
+we saw a bear in a storm, wandering about with powerful strides, and
+seeming to think nothing of the bad weather, although a man, protected
+by the best of clothes, could scarcely have moved from the spot.
+
+The bear which we shot on the 1st of April, about 300 steps from the
+ship, cost us the greatest exertions to drag away against the north
+wind.
+
+The smell of burnt fat draws the creatures from miles round. In their
+wanderings they climb high groups of ice, and one can sometimes see
+them looking far out, with their snouts in the air, smelling for food.
+The Esquimaux often catch them by it,--a manœuvre, which requires
+cleverness and self-possession: and many of them bear marks of the
+battle fought under such circumstances. Head wounds excepted, a shot
+will sometimes take away all power of resistance in the strangest
+manner. Meetings with bears are attended by very different results.
+It often happens that a party of sledge travellers, under peculiar
+circumstances, and with but little time to spare, pass one, or more of
+them, sometimes but a few steps off, when they cause no other feeling
+than that of curiosity and astonishment.
+
+Krauschner, the engineer, was the snow-purveyor for the kitchen, and
+had to go twice a day with his sledge to the neighbouring glacier.
+Once a bear attached himself to him. He walked with dignified steps as
+an escort behind the sledge, and not until the engineer had reached
+the ship did our shout of alarm make him aware of the presence of his
+somewhat doubtful friend.
+
+On the whole, the flesh of the bear (particularly that of the old
+animals) is far inferior to that of the brown bear. It is coarse and
+tough, and tastes more or less of train oil. Barentz and many others
+maintain that the liver is prejudicial to health. The flesh, however,
+we have always found wholesome, and the Esquimaux west of Davis Straits
+give it to their dogs.
+
+Sometimes, on our sledge journeys, we were surprised in the tent; but
+we never set a thorough watch, chiefly because we none of us really
+slept, and a large creature like that could not approach without a
+slight rustle.
+
+A tent is to a bear thoroughly unintelligible, and an object alike
+of mistrust and curiosity. One of Kane’s companions, who was roused
+by the growling of a bear and the appearance of its head through the
+aperture of the tent, had the presence of mind to put a lighted box
+of lucifer-matches under his nose, an insult which he magnanimously
+forgave, and disappeared at once.
+
+Our first meeting with one was on the 4th of August, among the
+pack-ice, the day before we landed in Greenland. We had laid to by a
+large ice-floe, when about 300 steps from us we saw two bears. The
+burning of seals’ fat had drawn their attention, for their black
+nozzles were high in the air, though they were shy of approaching the
+ship. Copeland, Sengstacke, and Payer got into the boat, and under
+cover of the steep floe, rowed towards them; but the newly-formed ice,
+which filled a creek in the floe, only admitted of Payer’s landing.
+He shot hurriedly and missed, and they at once disappeared among the
+hummocks.
+
+It is not advisable to approach such a powerful enemy, unless he is
+completely disabled. We met with bears which stood as firm as a rock
+against the shot, although at every bullet they quivered violently, and
+streams of blood flowed from them.[78]
+
+Void of all fat, and hungry, these beasts of prey haunted the coast,
+until upon discovering the ship, the movements of the men at once drew
+their attention, and they never left the neighbourhood of Griper Roads
+(the name of the winter harbour). Whoever went into the open air,
+though only a few steps from the ship, during the long polar night,
+required his gun at half-cock. One night the engineer, as he came on
+deck, heard a great rustle; and in the morning footprints showed that
+a bear had advanced over the snow to the tent.
+
+These besiegers also paid repeated visits to our provisions on land;
+but they played our astronomers the worst trick, for they carried
+off the measuring apparatus for deciding the length of the base. The
+greatest evil for sledge-travellers is, that however important a depôt
+they may make for provisions, they can never leave it secure from
+these _feræ_ of the ice. The best way is to hang a sack upon an
+inaccessible wall of rock. The strength which the bears possess in
+digging out anything that is buried is astonishing. Covering over with
+frozen sand and water is better than the heaviest stone, because it
+blunts the bear’s claws.
+
+In spite of their great numbers seldom more than three (and that a
+family) are ever seen together.[79] It is always well understood that
+the old ones must be killed first, for a she-bear deprived of her cubs
+is a terrible adversary. If they are only wounded, she pushes them
+before her or defends them with her own body, though a cub will never
+hesitate to devour the flesh of its mother.
+
+The ice-fields of its native home are pleasant to the bear, and it will
+not willingly part from them.
+
+The whaler “Bienenkorb,” which we visited in 1869, had one in a cage on
+deck; and when, from the strong motion of the ship, it caught sight of
+the ice, it began to howl dismally. Indeed, the sight of the drift-ice
+worked so powerfully on the creature, that they were at last obliged
+to hang a veil of sail-cloth before the cage.
+
+On the 23rd of August, on our return voyage, we saw through the
+pack-ice, half hidden by the fog, the three last bears, and as it fell
+they seemed to be taking leave of us in a stage tableau.
+
+The Arctic fox (_Canis lagopus_, L.[80]) is a very interesting
+species of its genus. It is either (and that irrespective of the time
+of year) bluish white or grey.[81] Its coat, which is wonderfully
+soft, forms an article of commerce with the Hudson’s Bay Company. It
+is considerably smaller in bulk than the polar hare, which, when grown
+up, generally weighs eight pounds and three-quarters. Its flesh is no
+delicacy. Barentz, and since him several other Arctic travellers, have,
+however, found it enjoyable, and we (Pansch and Copeland) did our best
+to eat it.
+
+The Arctic fox has, with but few exceptions, none of the cunning
+attributed to our own Reynard. At least our recollections of it (except
+in one or two cases) are of a most harmless character. During the
+winter we succeeded in catching some after the manner of the Esquimaux.
+Once one was taken out of the trap and laid down for dead, but after a
+time it sprang up and rushed away. For the young ducks, for which it
+has a great weakness, the fox is a bitter enemy. It lives upon anything
+it can get in winter, even shell-fish and other saltwater produce which
+is brought by the tide on to the strand-ice. In the summer lemmings
+seem to be its chief food.
+
+Nearly the whole of the winter and spring we kept some prisoners in
+the engine-room; in such close proximity to the coals they all turned
+black. Two of them died of tubercles on the lungs. A beautiful grey fox
+had to be garotted in the cabin for refractoriness; another was set
+free, and the last deserted the cage that we had made it and put upon
+the ice near the ship. This desertion, which was brought about by the
+melting and falling down of the block of ice on which the cage stood,
+and which we all witnessed from the deck, had something particularly
+comical about it. The fox, which had almost waned away to a skeleton,
+began to stretch himself, then to stick out his bushy tail like a
+broom, wriggled his lanky body into a pool of water, and lastly, as
+elegantly as a dancing-master and as if longing for liberty, started
+off, without deigning to cast another look at the ship.
+
+The European fox shuns mankind, but the Greenland fox seeks his society
+in perfect innocence, and without any suspicion, for it hopes to
+profit by him. It is the first, after a fortunate day’s hunting, to
+show its astonishment, and also hasten to enjoy the spoil, as well as
+steal a reindeer ham from the sledge in the night, and carry it away.
+It accompanies him on hunting and sledge journeys at a respectful
+distance, and employs his time of rest in visiting, opening, and
+plundering the sack of provisions. An ice-bound ship it watches with
+great favour, for there is always some lucky chance bringing him chance
+of profit, and things which can easily be carried away. Indeed, it is
+so accustomed to spunging upon others that it is often difficult to
+make him ashamed of himself.
+
+If, after hours of constant gnawing, or, when in company with others,
+his envious snarling, one goes out of the tent to stop his tugging
+at the ropes, instead of going away humbly, he looks boldly into his
+benefactor’s face, barks at the firing, and goes off reluctantly.
+
+At other times they come curiously trotting along, not allowing
+themselves to be frightened by the firing, and a piece of bacon-rind
+will entice them to follow the sledge for miles. It is a troublesome
+piece of work to skin a fox newly killed, in the icy cold; its warm
+skin forming a warmer neck-tie on that account.
+
+The Greenland reindeer (_Tarandus rangifer_, L., var. _Groenlandicus_)
+differs at least from the American, Laplandish, and Spitzbergen
+species. Its horns are not shovelled at the tips, like theirs; they
+are also more upright. It carries its head and neck high; its whole
+build is elegant, and reminds one, in every respect, of the European
+deer. Kane and Hayes also met with them in the most northerly parts
+of West Greenland. Our excursions taught us that they increase in
+numbers towards the interior of the country; indeed, at the back of
+Kaiser Franz-Joseph Fjord, in the neighbourhood of a glacier remarkable
+for its luxuriant vegetation, we came upon a tolerably good footpath
+trodden by the reindeer.
+
+The musk-ox,[82] properly speaking, the sheep-ox (_Ovibos moschatus_,
+Blainv.), is somewhat smaller than the European ox. Its threatening
+appearance is quite in contrast to its harmless nature; its colour is
+black; its hair long, and falling in rough manes, though on its back is
+some wool, not to be surpassed in fineness.[83] Payer pulled out the
+wool of three that were killed, on Kuhn Island, to wrap up a number of
+fossils in, for transportation, and took a careful sketch of one of the
+most stately. Its eyes are particularly small.
+
+As the name implies, the creature is distinguished according to its
+age, some more, some less, by the smell of musk in its flesh and fat;
+to which, however, one can as easily accustom oneself as to the smell
+of train oil. Its flesh, upon the whole, greatly resembles that of
+our own ox.[84] The first we saw and killed was on Shannon Island,
+in August, 1869. As we did not then know this animal, we made the
+strangest guesses, comparing it to a gnu.
+
+Like the reindeer, it lives on vegetable food, which is scanty enough
+here.
+
+Scarcely anywhere in Greenland does the Flora suffice to change the
+face of the soil; at the utmost, it only serves to shade it. Moss,
+lichen, greyish-green grasses, ranunculus, saxifrage, &c., form meagre
+solitary patches amongst the weather-beaten stone heaps. Here and
+there the plains are covered with birch bushes, a few inches high (the
+stems of which are often no thicker than a lucifer-match), also with
+bilberry-bushes, but more often with sallows, creeping along the ground.
+
+Almost every species of the Flora of the plain, especially the
+garden-poppy, did we find on mountains from 1625 to 3250 feet high. On
+the summit of a rock 7495 feet high grew, near the well-known black
+and yellow lichen, known everywhere in the European Alps as the last
+representative of vegetation, a long, fibrous kind of moss.
+
+The greater summer warmth of the rocky interior of the country insures
+there a more varied Flora. Former Esquimaux settlements, if only
+covering a few square fathoms, were at once recognizable from their
+light green colour, caused by constant manuring. Meadows, in our sense
+of the term, were nowhere to be seen.
+
+How far north the musk-ox and the reindeer are found we can scarcely
+decide. The first we met in 77° N. Lat., and the last only in 75°. The
+scanty means of existence afforded by the soil compel them to constant
+wanderings.
+
+Both animals are almost always met with in herds, sometimes of from
+twenty to thirty head. The greatest number of reindeer we ever saw were
+about 100 to 200 head, on a hilly ground to the west of Cape Broer
+Ruys; and the greatest number of musk-oxen in the brown-coal district
+of Kuhn Island. To the former we gave battle.
+
+Their behaviour towards the hunter is in no way similar. The reindeer
+approaches him at a brisk trot, full of curiosity, to within a few
+steps; indeed, sometimes they come quite close to him. The musk-ox
+remains as if rooted to the spot, staring at the strange, unknown
+enemy, and arrives very slowly at a resolution.
+
+At Cape Philip-Broke four of them most humbly condescended to play
+with Payer by pretending to carry off his portable table. Older animals
+stand fire most coolly, even after being wounded, and amuse themselves
+by defending the most exposed part by putting down their heads, which
+is their invulnerable part. One of them once received a shot from
+a Wanzl-gun on his mailed forehead without showing the slightest
+annoyance. The ball fell a flattened disc on to the ground!
+
+If a family, or a herd with young ones, are surprised, they either form
+a square (the young being in the centre, and the old outside, with
+their heads down), or else the bull, placed as a sentinel, takes to
+flight, and the others follow closely, the placing of their outposts
+being astonishing. They are also excellent climbers. A retreating
+herd climbed a snow-path at an incline of not less than 45° on a high
+mountain near our winter harbour, and to our great astonishment we
+saw one looking down upon us from between the craggy walls of Cape
+Hamburg.[85] At the first shot a herd of approaching reindeer will make
+a spring and then stand terrified; the next shot, or the fall of one
+of them, puts them to flight. It costs something thus to dispel their
+innocent confidence.
+
+Once a reindeer ran hurriedly over the land to a boat that was landing.
+It stood close to us on the shore, with its head stretched out, and its
+large soft eyes watching us confidingly. One of us sprang hastily on
+shore, and it ran off. Another time a number of them came close to the
+tent. But a scene took place, which many of our hunting friends would
+envy us, in a herd near Cape Bennet, in August, 1870. We had just left
+our boat, which we were going to load with seven carcasses which we had
+killed some days before and left behind; but unfortunately they had
+all turned bad, as we had neglected to open them. Suddenly there came
+from twenty to thirty head over the mountain-slope, and upon reaching a
+snow-field all lay down, enticed by the refreshing coolness and our own
+example, as we had just done the same thing. As, however, we started to
+continue our journey, the front guard of the reindeer rose to do the
+same; but it happened that one of them--evidently the leader--seemed
+displeased that the greater number took no notice of the movement, as
+they desired to have a little more rest; so it stopped the others,
+turned back, and went to each animal separately, pushing it with its
+horns, until they all stood up and began their march together to a new
+grazing-place. The flesh of the reindeer is good, though somewhat soft
+and spongy.
+
+It is plain that these creatures were very useful to us, and that
+without them we should often have been in a sad predicament.
+Unfortunately, our furthest and most productive hunt took place shortly
+before we left Greenland, and over against the island Jan-Mayen. We
+had to throw more than a thousand pounds of reindeer and musk-oxen
+flesh overboard, as the rising of the temperature beyond the pack-ice,
+together with the damp, turned it all bad.
+
+If any creature deserves the name of monster, it is the walrus. It is
+from 9 feet 6 inches to 16 feet 6 inches long, weighs about 20 cwt.,
+and its skin is 3½ inches thick (a sort of massive coat of mail), with
+a head of infinite ugliness, rather large eyes, and tusks sometimes 30
+inches long (of a sort of ivory), which helps the creature to obtain
+his food (chiefly mussels) from the bottom of the sea, and, together
+with the breast-fins, help him to climb on to the floating ice to a
+place of rest. Round his jaws are long cat-like bristles, as thick as a
+large darning-needle. Demoniacal as his appearance is, his voice is as
+bad--a jerking, imitative scream, lowing and puffing, often repeated,
+and in which it seems to delight. Walruses and seals, from their
+richness in train-oil, are highly estimated in the Arctic fishery, and
+are invaluable to the Esquimaux--indeed, in many cases when, either
+from the blocking up of the coast with ice or the retreating of the
+herd, they have been unable to catch any, they have almost died of
+hunger. One way the Esquimaux have of killing the seals is to approach
+them by degrees with a white screen, behind which they crouch, and
+another by lying in ambush amongst the ice and harpooning them.
+
+One of the largest walruses that we saw was killed on the ice, near
+Shannon, on the 27th of August, 1869, by Dr. Copeland. It measured 9
+feet 11 inches in length. The skin is particularly flexible and soft,
+and the leather we used for straps for the machinery.
+
+The time it remains under water depends (I think) upon the time the
+creature has had for preparation. If a walrus is suddenly hunted
+from his sleep into the water, it must rise again immediately to the
+surface. Now it takes a deep breath. If it is again hunted, it comes up
+again; if this is repeated five or six times, the walrus then seems to
+be provided with a store, for now it dives in reality, and is seldom
+seen again.
+
+Walrus-hunting is very dangerous, for in its fury this animal can break
+through ice six inches thick. If, therefore, it is not met with on
+strong old ice, it is necessary to change one’s place very quickly, for
+(as is the case with all mammals) the walrus is obliged to come to the
+surface of cracks, or ice-holes, kept open for the purpose, in order
+to breathe every ten minutes. The animals notice exactly the direction
+and the distance of their enemy, and emerge at the spot to meet and
+destroy him. Returning from the sledge journey from Tiroler Fjord, we
+had abundant opportunity of proving this.
+
+Contrasted with its ferocity in the water there is nothing more
+innocent and harmless than a herd of walruses sunning themselves on
+an ice-floe or the shore, or, indeed, sleeping on the water; but
+unfortunately the comparison with a torpedo (which, for fear of some
+accident, one dares not touch) is only too well founded. A single
+ice-floe often bears twenty and sometimes a much larger number of these
+creatures, their dark, sphynx-like bodies lying close together; the
+head, from their long tusks, leaning sideways or upon one another;
+and thus they sleep away the greater part of their existence in the
+sun, lulled by the rushing and roaring of the breakers. The walrus,
+surprised on shore or on an ice-field, is utterly helpless; and
+although it strikes furiously on all sides with its teeth, is just as
+harmless as it is terrible when its anger is roused in the water. One
+peculiarity, which under some circumstances may be very dangerous, is
+its great curiosity.
+
+Should one of these monsters see a boat, it raises itself astonished
+above the surface, utters at once a cry of alarm, swimming towards
+it as quickly as possible. This call brings up others, awakens the
+sleepers which the boat had carefully avoided, and in a short time the
+small vessel is followed by a number of these monsters, blustering
+in apparent or real fury in all their hideousness. The creatures may
+possibly be only actuated by curiosity, but their manner of showing it
+is unfortunately so ill-chosen that one feels obliged to act on the
+defensive. The bellowing, jerking, and diving herd is now but a short
+distance from the boat. The first shot strikes, and this inflames their
+wrath, and now begins a wild fight in which some of the black sphynxes
+are struck with axes on the flappers, with which they threaten to
+overturn the boat. Others of the men defend themselves with a spear or
+with the blade of an oar.
+
+Often, from some unknown cause, these creatures turn suddenly from the
+fight, jerking and diving under water, and when at some distance, turn
+their ugly heads to look back, and fill the air with their vindictive
+grunts.
+
+In the summer of 1869 a boat excursion to Cape Wynn with difficulty
+escaped the destruction of their craft. Another time they were followed
+by a herd and succeeded in reaching the shore of an island, where,
+though only for a short time, they were blockaded in. The longer you
+live in Arctic regions the less can you persuade yourself to attack
+these creatures in their own element, unless forced by pressing
+circumstances, i. e., want of either food or of oil, and then it is
+advisable, if in boats, to provide oneself with cartridges. The most
+successful hunt is when these creatures are surprised on the ice-floes.
+When approaching very near them, the oars are shipped and the boat
+noiselessly landed. The hunters get upon the floe behind the creature,
+but scarcely does one raise its head in contempt and anger than all the
+others wake up, and the whole herd press forward, pushing the young
+ones with them to the edge of the floe, where they turn head foremost
+into the water. Only this short time is at the hunter’s disposal,
+and his shots must be quick and true. Should one of the young ones
+be killed, the mother carries it with her flappers, challenging her
+enemies to fight, with a fierce look. A walrus once killed is quickly
+made fast by a rope to the boat before it sinks. The weight of these
+creatures is so enormous that two of them which we had hoisted on to
+the same side of the deck gave it a decided inclination.
+
+We were obliged to eat seals as well as walrus, and that too (more
+often than not) raw. Their flesh has a strong flavour of train oil;
+that of the latter is almost black, the liver a beautiful violet. Both
+creatures have the extraordinary habit of occasionally swallowing
+stones. The seal is from three to six feet long, perfectly harmless
+and defenceless. It is cautious and suspicious and will dive for the
+slightest cause. Indeed, its apish face, with its peculiar expression
+of curiosity, is in and out of the water every minute.
+
+Seals, too, live in herds. Seal-hunters often find hundreds on one
+ice-floe. Whilst they sleep or sun themselves they set a watch, which
+being killed, the whole herd may often be taken. A seal hunt is carried
+on in different ways; the most successful is with clubs. Their skull
+is very weak. Our bullets had the effect of blowing them to pieces.
+The most fruitful ground for seal-hunting is the neighbourhood of
+Newfoundland and the lonely island of Jan Mayen, lying within the
+Arctic Circle. In southern latitudes they rarely appear. When dead they
+sink very quickly.
+
+To the Esquimaux, the seal and walrus are of universal utility. They
+cut straps out of their skin, make dresses, finish their boats, cover
+the floors and walls of their snow-huts; their bones they use for the
+repair of their sledges and weapons, their fat as fuel, and their flesh
+for food: in a word, where Esquimaux exist, seal and walrus are eaten.
+
+The European hare is remarkable for its long and rapid hasty flight,
+and its timidity. The Greenland hare (_Lepus glacialis_), on the
+contrary, sits as if nailed down in its rocky refuge, however near the
+hunter may pass to him. Sometimes one sees the mountain slopes dotted
+with white spots, which from their motionlessness might be taken for
+snow; but they are only white hares. They are about the size of our
+own hares; but their flesh, like that of the Alpine hare, is insipid.
+Hare-hunting in Greenland often gives rise to the drollest scenes.
+Their hearing appears to be even weaker than their sight. Payer once
+stood near a hare, which was startled by repeated firing, but had
+confined its flight to a few steps. The creature was nibbling the
+moss quietly. Payer took out his sketch-book, and drew it in all the
+different positions which, in its uneasiness at the conversation and
+laughter of his companions, it assumed.
+
+The peculiar species of wolf met with in other Arctic neighbourhoods is
+not found in East Greenland; neither is the wolf-like dog, now dying
+out from disease, and upon which the existence of the Esquimaux in East
+Greenland is completely dependent.
+
+Brown, in his Fauna of Greenland, believes that the dogs brought by
+Torell from Greenland to Spitzbergen in 1861, to work the sledges (a
+plan frustrated by the sea being found open), would increase rapidly,
+and return to the original wolf-type.
+
+They are also unknown in the north of Europe, and like the ice-bear,
+fox, and reindeer, are peculiar to the Arctic Circle.
+
+The remaining Fauna of this country--lemmings, butterflies, a species
+of bee, spiders, and gnats (the latter at certain times of the year,
+and in particular neighbourhoods, being a perfect plague), all possess
+a high zoological interest; but they lie beyond the descriptive limits
+of a Greenland hunt.
+
+Interesting, too, is the more or less periodical return of a large
+number of birds which animate the Arctic world; some for only the
+summer weeks, and some for the whole year, such as ptarmigan and ravens
+(both of which remain through the winter); a number of screaming
+birds--most of which are species of gulls distinguished by their
+greediness--such as the auks, the divers, and above all, the eider
+ducks. These cling like so many white spots to the clefted rock,
+screaming to each other or sitting in a circle on the edge of a floe.
+
+A short early ice-covering of the coast water, indicating the close of
+a fleeting summer, has many embarrassments for them: and soon the far
+greater part accept the signal for emigration to southern regions.
+
+The west coast of Greenland is much richer in birds than the east
+coast. Our share was therefore proportionately small. The flesh of
+Arctic birds has, doubtless owing to the nature of their food, a strong
+taste of train-oil.
+
+The Arctic Sea is inhabited, besides small fish, by numberless
+creatures of lower development (_Crustacea_, &c.), which serve
+for food to the gigantic inhabitants of the same element, such as the
+Greenland whale, the fin-backed whale, and the narwhal.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XIII.
+
+           SLEDGE JOURNEYS IN SPRING. APRIL–JULY, 1870.[86]
+
+   Excursion to Klein Pendulum.--Sledge tour to the
+   Hühnerberg.--Ascent of the icebergs.--Return to the ship in a
+   storm.--Second expedition to Hühnerberg and Kronenberg.--Superb
+   illumination of the felspar rocks of the Hasenberg.--Return to
+   Klein Pendulum.--Picturesque region of Kefersteinberg.--Starting
+   for the Geodetical Expedition on the 14th of May.--Iversen
+   snow-blind.--Spectacles.--Provision depôt erected.--Copeland
+   and Sengstacke depart for Hochstetter’s Foreland.--Discovery
+   of lignite.--A musk-ox calf caught.--First ascent of
+   the Muschelberg.--Third ascent of Cape Bremen.--Sudden
+   thaw.--Starting for Hochstetter’s Foreland.--Impossibility
+   of advancing the sledges.--Toilsome progress.--The
+   Muschelberg.--Sledges left behind.--Cape Hamburg.--The Fligely
+   Fjord.--Deficiency of provisions.--Passage over Clavering’s
+   Straits.--Arrival on board on 17th of July.--Magnetical and
+   astronomical observations.
+
+
+In the beginning of April, the state of Dr. Börgen’s health was such
+that he was compelled to take great care of himself, and in all
+geodetical work had to content himself with being adviser only. It
+was therefore decided that on the 4th Dr. Copeland should make an
+excursion to Klein Pendulum, to choose some sites and to signal from
+thence, whether the Hühnerberg, as well as the intended stations on
+Kuhn Island and Tellplatte were visible, and therefore could be easily
+connected with the others on Sabine Island. On this occasion we used
+a small sledge made for the purpose by the carpenter and the smith.
+The ice was very thin, and we had to pick our way carefully along the
+“Ice-foot.” After passing the south-east point of the island we saw a
+walrus sleeping on the ice, which Copeland and Iversen killed. Upon
+skinning the creature fifteen minutes after its death, the warmth
+of the blood in the jugular vein was ninety-eight; we may therefore
+conclude that this is its true warmth, as in that short time it could
+not possibly have fallen to any extent. In the straits between the two
+islands we came upon the old ice, and started direct across to Klein
+Pendulum, where at half-past seven we raised our tent at the foot of
+the Stufenberg. The next morning was stormy, and we could not leave
+the tent until evening, when Dr. Copeland set out to find the station
+where, the summer before, we had taken our observations. We then built
+a small cairn about fourteen yards to the south-west of it, and as the
+spot is easy of access and may be visited by future travellers, the
+following particulars may be useful. The cairn stands near a group
+of Esquimaux winter huts, its top being 32 feet 9 inches above the
+mean height of the water. The latitude and longitude, according to
+observations made last autumn, is 74° 37′ 37″ North, and 1° 13′ 57″, or
+18° 29′ 2″ West from Greenwich.
+
+The next day was rather fine; we climbed the Stufenberg, and added
+seven feet to the height of the cairn built by Lieutenant Payer the
+year before. Through a telescope of 18-lines aperture, we could
+distinguish the small cairn built by Drs. Börgen and Copeland the
+August before on the Hühnerberg.
+
+The following day, the 7th, the weather was anything but satisfactory;
+but we climbed the north-westerly height of the island, which,
+according to our chart, had been chosen as a station. This height we
+called Church Point, as the rocky masses reminded us of a church, and
+here we built a cairn; though, owing to the fog, we were unable to
+decide whether the spot would ever be useful as a station.
+
+Friday, 8th of April, the weather had become worse, and we were
+doubtful what to do; but at last decided that after signalling another
+point from Klein Pendulum, we should either climb the Tafelberg north
+of Hansa Bay, or any other height, then round by Sabine Island to the
+Kronenberg, in order to supply this with a cairn. But upon reaching the
+coast of Sabine Island, north of Hansa Bay, the weather had become so
+bad that we determined to return on board; and as the young ice was now
+safe, we reached the ship shortly after three p.m., although our sledge
+was heavily laden with the skin of the walrus.
+
+On Monday, the 11th, Dr. Copeland accompanied by Dr. Pansch, Iversen,
+and Warkmeister, started once more, this time for the mainland, to
+signal from the Hühnerberg and then to go on to the Kronenberg. By the
+time we reached the foot of the Hühnerberg it was too late to climb it,
+so we visited a glacier lying in one of those peculiar cauldron-shaped
+valleys in which the Pendulum Islands abound. The water which runs from
+this glacier in the summer finds its way by subterranean channels into
+the sea.
+
+The surface seemed free from cracks; but an ever-recurring cracking
+noise told us that even at this season of the year it was not
+motionless. The lower part stood so far behind the upper, that we were
+bound to conclude that the upper strata moved forwards quicker than
+the under. It seemed as if very recently many large ice-blocks had
+fallen, and others hung in such dangerous positions that we dared not
+venture nearer, even to get some loose stones scattered among the ice.
+The aneroid barometer gave the height of the lower edge of the glacier
+at 370 feet above the level of the sea. Pansch sketched while Copeland
+took observations. The whole of that night the thermometer stood at 22°
+below zero, but we were so heavily covered with woollen clothing that
+we did not suffer.
+
+  [Illustration: HÜHNERBERG GLACIER.]
+
+  [Illustration: THE KRONENBERG.]
+
+The next day we had a fresh breeze from the north, with fog. But we
+needed a clear prospect, in order to decide upon the desirability of
+the stations chosen; as we often had to give them up, when from any
+change in the refraction the distant station could not be seen. At
+about half-past one we reached the summit; to the north and west was
+still a clear view, and we recognized all that we had observed the
+year before relating to the extent of land and the formation of the
+mountains. Clavering Island, with its jagged points and rounded tops,
+seemed quite near. But there were signs of an approaching storm, and
+though from our stand-point we were at least eight nautical miles from
+open water, and eighteen from the drifting ice, we could still hear
+the cracking and pressing of the icy masses on the high seas.
+
+The 13th and part of the 14th we were compelled to keep in the tent,
+with nothing to read and nothing to do. The thought that our ship
+lay within seven nautical miles of us, and that the next day was
+Good Friday, raised our impatience to such a pitch that we finally
+determined in spite of the drifting snow to make an attempt to reach
+it. The chart was consulted, our course decided upon, and the tent
+poles were drawn. The deeper we got into the straits, and the less
+the wind was influenced by the mountain slopes, the more we had to
+depend upon the compass; but at last we trusted entirely to the wind,
+always keeping the same side of the body against it, as from our long
+experience we knew that during the whole of a storm the wind never
+changed its direction.
+
+Our way now lay along the south coast of Sabine Island; but wishing to
+avoid the deep snow and the smooth ice which alternated close to the
+shore, we kept farther out, thereby making a great mistake, for we were
+walking in a south-easterly direction straight to the open water. A
+look at the compass, however, soon set us right, and about eight p.m.
+we were once more on board.
+
+Good Friday, the 15th, the weather was better. Copeland employed it, as
+he was on Sabine Island, in choosing another spot on the Germaniaberg
+instead of that called No. 4, and also in simplifying the triangle.
+
+The 16th and 17th were unfavourable. The 18th was a glorious day. Dr.
+Copeland, accompanied by Mr. Sengstacke, Iversen, and Warkmeister,
+returned to the tent left on the Hühnerberg. It was completely snowed
+up, and took nearly the whole afternoon to dig out. At three the next
+morning we climbed the mountain and built a cairn. It was wonderfully
+fine, at -4° Fahr.
+
+The cairn built on Church Point station on the 7th was just visible,
+but the direction went so straight over the slope of the Kefersteinberg
+that we feared we should have some difficulty in seeing it.
+
+By four p.m. we were again in the tent, and then started for the
+Kronenberg, part of our way lying along one of those long islands of
+which there are so many in Clavering Straits, and between Sabine and
+Pendulum Islands. Here, as there, they were composed of huge rocky
+masses of vertical plates of basalt, from nine to twelve feet in
+length. At half-past eight p.m. we raised our tent at the foot of the
+Kronenberg, where to our great joy we could see the newly-built cairn
+on the Hühnerberg with the naked eye.
+
+The next day we climbed the mountain, and were astonished to find
+yellow sandstone, while the whole crown consisted of beautiful vertical
+plates of basalt. The sandstone covers the whole of the upper part,
+and contained the remains of some carbonized plants. Upon this march
+Dr. Copeland’s eyes were severely tried by snow-blindness, as also the
+boatswain’s. On our return journey we enjoyed a beautiful sight. The
+sun was already low on the north-west horizon, so that the whole of the
+straits and the mountains of the mainland were in deep shadow. Only
+the steep cliffs of the Hasenberg shone in a purple glow, contrasting
+strangely with the azure blue of the sky and the fixed deadly whiteness
+of the snow. The colouring was sometimes so intense that one might
+fancy the basalt rocks were in a red glow of fire.
+
+We reached the ship at midnight, though still in broad daylight. From
+this time until the middle of August lasted the long Arctic day of 100
+days.
+
+Dr. Copeland suffered from snow-blindness for some time; but the
+weather was nearly always stormy and foggy, so that but little could
+be done in the open air. This enforced rest we employed in carefully
+considering our triangle. We then decided to give up the stations on
+Church Point and Stufenberg, and take instead but one station on the
+highest point of Klein Pendulum, and for those on Sabine Island take
+only the Kefersteinberg. This was a great simplifying of the area, and
+we thereby obtained a larger basis for the northern triangulation. Our
+plan was now decided upon and the measurement of the base was to be
+commenced at once. Sengstacke, Mersen and Copeland left the ship on
+Sunday the 24th of April at four a.m., without either tent or sledge,
+going through the valleys to the south-east of the island, and at
+forty-five minutes past eight reached the coast of Klein Pendulum at
+the entrance of a large valley.
+
+Here grew much moss, and flocks of ptarmigan were chirping as gaily
+as if they were enjoying the summer already, although the thermometer
+stood only at 32° F.
+
+All signals except that on the Hühnerberg were distinctly visible.
+A couple of hares which we killed here increased the weight of our
+knapsacks, but also gave us some fresh meat, which was very acceptable.
+Reaching the coast once more, we halted a short time to heat some
+frozen soup. In a temperature of -4°, with a sharp north wind blowing,
+hungry and spent as we were, we could scarcely keep ourselves warm
+until the snow was melted.
+
+The cairn which we built there could be seen at a distance of nearly
+forty English miles.
+
+In the mean time Dr. Börgen had recovered and could now take his share
+in the work. The next thing to be done before the beginning of the
+great sledge journey was the measuring of the base. We had already made
+an attempt at this, in the beginning of March, but were obliged to give
+it up. Measuring-stakes and tripods had been buried on the spot, and
+from time to time we had seen that all was right. When on the 25th we
+thought to take them up without any trouble, we found that the tripods
+which we had buried in two boxes heavily weighted with stones, were
+scattered around and that the stakes were not to be found. Since Mr.
+Sengstacke’s last visit on the 20th April a bear had no doubt been
+there, and a storm might have carried away the stakes. We had now to
+provide new ones as soon as possible, for which purpose Mr. Sengstacke
+gave us two oars belonging to the large boat, which were the required
+length of twelve feet six inches. On the morning of the 27th the
+sleighing party returned from the north. The remainder of the day was
+of course given up to them, and the joy of their return; and on the
+30th April, the first part of the base of 296 feet was again measured.
+The temperature at this time was not above 14°, and we feel sure that
+the lowness of temperature is no hindrance whatever to European base
+measurement in Arctic regions with the most delicate instruments and
+the utmost exactness.
+
+On an excursion to the top of the Kefersteinberg we climbed several
+gently rising valleys, and at last over a yard and a half broad
+rift, to the left of which is a very beautiful cauldron-shaped
+valley with steep walls, in which a glacier has its rise. To the
+right the mountain declines in not very steep slopes on to the flat
+shore of Hansa Bay. One more gently sloping hill, and we are at the
+top; to the north, the declivity is so steep that the little stones
+can scarcely lie upon it without rolling. Turning from here to the
+plateau, which sinks by degrees to the west, towards the Kronenberg,
+a most picturesque and interesting amphitheatre is seen, consisting
+of basaltic columns. Numbers of them lie in fragments, which are ever
+increased by others falling amongst them with a thundering noise. But
+many columns, from six to nine feet thick and hundreds of feet high,
+still withstand the storms and other influences which seek to destroy
+them. Many stand quite isolated, and being broken in several places,
+lean overhanging against each other in such a way that they threaten
+to fall every moment: but it requires other strength than that of the
+hand of man to hurl such masses from their position. The whole of
+this valley which surrounds the Kronenberg to the east, resembles the
+crumbled wall of a crater, and is grandly picturesque.
+
+On the 9th of May, Copeland and Iversen passed four hours on the top of
+this mountain (2252 feet high), which is not only the highest point of
+the island but of the whole group.
+
+By the 14th of May our base was completely measured; the sledge was
+packed, the stakes made even once more, and at ten p.m. we started on
+another journey. We left the ship accompanied by Capt. Koldewey, who
+with four men helped us to pull for some miles. It was greatly to be
+wished that we might be able to carry our triangle as far as Haystack.
+Three nautical miles from the ship our friends left us. At six a.m.
+we reached our former resting-place, half-way along the west coast of
+Klein Pendulum, where we were met by our old friends the ptarmigans;
+here we slept the whole of the sunny day and began our march in the
+evening.
+
+Our road lay at first on the smooth undulating fresh-water ice, running
+along the coast-line, our only fear being that of running ourselves
+down from the momentum of the sledge. Between Kuhn Island, Shannon and
+Pendulum Straits the snow lay full of holes, the outer crust being
+hard; but the sledge slides broke through, and it was soft beneath, so
+that the tent-poles pierced it easily at least seven feet and a half.
+At six a.m. on the 16th we were only one nautical mile and a half north
+of Klein Pendulum, and quite exhausted we put up our tent for a rest;
+starting again in the evening, we could take only part of our baggage
+with us, and after marching two nautical miles and a half had to go
+back for the other part. Upon starting it was so foggy that we had to
+direct our course by the compass, though a lift showed us the edge of
+the land ice a few nautical miles from us. This day we marched fifteen
+nautical miles and found ourselves in 74° 55′ N. Lat., exactly south of
+Tellplatte. We here discovered by the Dancer-telescope, to our great
+joy, that all the cairns built were visible, although they were quite
+from fifteen to twenty nautical miles distant.
+
+The exertions of the last few days had so greatly exhausted our
+strength that we could not start again until eight a.m. on the 19th.
+
+At noon we trod the coast, and climbed the mountain to choose the spot
+for our cairn. The ground resembled Cape Philip Broke, which we had
+visited the year before. Huge blocks of basalt lay around, one resting
+upon these small stones, as if man’s hand had placed it there for a
+purpose. On the highest point of the south-easterly part of one of the
+hills still stood a cairn built the autumn before by Lieut. Payer,
+and this seemed to be the best spot we could find on the Tellplatte.
+Traces of the musk-ox were everywhere to be seen, and soon we saw six
+full-grown animals and two calves. Returning in the evening we found
+Iversen snow-blind.
+
+  [Illustration: BLOCK OF BASALT.]
+
+The next day, the 20th, so violent a south wind blew, accompanied by
+fog, that we could do nothing but erect a depôt; about 250 lbs. of
+provisions and reserve clothing were buried in different places in the
+rock, and stones rolled against them. The coast here forms a small bay
+about half a nautical mile broad. Along the strand were numerous tent
+circles and many other signs, such as bones of the walrus and seal,
+and heaps of mussel-shells, showing that formerly this had evidently
+been a favourite summer resort of the Esquimaux.
+
+In the tent we refreshed ourselves with two newly killed hares, cooked
+by a fire of willow wood and bear’s fat. Towards the evening, as the
+wind dropped we went to the spot where our cairn was to be built,
+leaving Iversen, whose eyes were worse, behind in the tent; it was
+still too windy, however, to do anything with the theodolite, so we
+built the cairn and ascertained by the barometer the height of the
+hill; this was 672 feet above the surface of the sea. On our return we
+passed through a broad valley to the south of our station, whose rich
+vegetation had attracted a whole herd of musk-oxen, eleven full-grown
+animals and three calves. It was remarkable how carefully, even in
+their hurried flight, they looked after the calves, which, although
+certainly not more than fourteen days old, ran with astonishing speed.
+
+It was morning before we reached the tent; we rested until the evening,
+and on the 21st of May continued our journey. The weather was quiet but
+foggy.
+
+We also found to our relief that the sledge went easily with the whole
+of the baggage. With the exception of an hour in which to make some
+coffee, we marched until ten a.m. of the next day. This was our longest
+march, being thirteen nautical miles.
+
+Here we took an observation for magnetic declination, which gave 44°
+52′ westerly; and fixed the position of the place as 74° 55.2′ N. Lat.
+and 19° 9′ Long. west of Greenwich. In the evening it was 14° Fahr.,
+and when we started at midnight 7°, making the snow hard. Until six
+a.m. this was good, then the influence of the sun began to be felt, and
+the sledge sank deeper and deeper.
+
+We pitched our tent over against a huge ice-block, and were soon under
+the bed-clothes, but not for long, for the sun shone so powerfully on
+the tent that by one p.m. the temperature was 81° Fahr., whilst in the
+shade the glass stood some degrees below freezing.
+
+We started again at one a.m., and even for the short stretch of a
+mile and a half we had to divide our baggage, some of which had to be
+left behind. Whilst Iversen and the boatswain effected this change,
+we climbed the Ruthner to signal. On the way from the ice-block to
+the shore we saw traces of a sledge, which we rightly attributed to
+Lieutenant Payer, who, not being able to penetrate the Fjord, had to
+return to the ship.
+
+After reading the barometer on the shore we climbed the mountain. In
+the snow were traces of musk-oxen, reindeer, lemmings, foxes, and
+hares; a bear, too, was seen in the distance. The upper part of this
+mountain consists, I believe, of mica-schist, the strata of which falls
+at an inclination of about 30° to the north-west.
+
+Below is rather a rich vegetation, particularly of _Andromeda
+tetragona_, whilst above, where the stones lie loose, there is no
+trace of it. Here the first flies were evidently enjoying the warmth
+of the stones; the top we found was formed of a steep roof of snow and
+ice, not very extensive, but enough to make it of no use to us. This
+was unfortunate, as all the points of our triangle, such as Tellplatte,
+Pendulum, and Hühnerberg, could be distinctly seen. Besides these were
+two others erected by Lieutenant Payer, one at Cape Bremen, and one at
+the “black wall,” to the south of our standing point.
+
+The prospect from Ruthner to westward, if only over the interior of
+Kuhn Island, is wonderfully beautiful. The wildly rent mountains,
+with broad ravines and narrow gorges, and the wonderful contrast of
+the granite sandstone, and basaltic rocks against the blinding white
+snow, made a never-to-be-forgotten impression. To the north end of
+the island lay a long, narrow channel, running deep into the land
+to the west; where to, remained an unsolved question. In Ardencaple
+Inlet at 75°, and Gael Hamkes Bay in 74°, was ample room for sledging
+expeditions in the spring and autumn. Our interesting excursion ended
+at three-quarters past six p.m. At seven on the 25th of May we left
+Ruthner, which we were unable to use as a station, for Cape Bremen,
+reaching the shore beneath it by half-past three a.m. It was quite
+clear and evident to us that our sledge journeys would soon have to be
+given up for this year, and therefore it would be impossible to carry
+our measuring as far as Haystack. The furthest we could hope to reach
+was a spot on Hochstetter’s Promontory, in order to connect it with the
+Observatory on Sabine Island; this Copeland and Sengstacke were to do,
+and choose the station from which to signal. Börgen and Iversen were
+to climb Cape Bremen, to heighten the cairn already built, and there
+begin the measurement of the angles. We should then visit Tellplatte
+once more, and leaving all we could behind, hurry on board with the
+instruments.
+
+We trod Hochstetter’s Promontory at a small tongue of land, behind
+which stretched a rather large bay; here we found, to our astonishment,
+some brown coal, some of which we collected for a fire. We soon came
+upon a family of musk-oxen, which all fled at our approach, except a
+calf, which we caught. We were, however, a long way from the ship, and
+its loud and unceasing bellowing put us in some danger, so we were
+forced to kill it, preserving only the skin and head for the zoological
+collection.
+
+We mounted the most easterly of two hills forming the greatest
+projecting point of the peninsula. The whole summit is composed of
+plates of a dark kind of marble chalk-stone, which answered our purpose
+beautifully, and after four hours’ hard work we had the pleasure of
+seeing a cairn two yards and a half high, and a base of at least two
+yards in diameter. Under its protection we had a short sleep and
+refreshment of water, blackbread, pemmican, and ham, which tasted
+excellent. We then continued our journey, and, after an absence of
+twenty-five hours, reached the tent, where our comrades were sleeping,
+at half-past seven p.m. on the 27th.
+
+About noon on the following day we climbed the mountain for the third
+and last time, and were received by such a violent west wind that it
+was impossible to put up our instruments.
+
+We retraced our steps through the ravine, but what a change! Spring had
+indeed come with might. Where forty-eight hours before not a drink of
+water could be had without a fire, and where twenty-four hours before
+we could hear a low gurgling deep under the snow, were now countless
+rills of crystal water and a foaming, rushing torrent. But we were
+indeed astonished upon reaching the shore to find our tent, which we
+had left on a gravelly hillock, standing on a peninsula in the midst of
+a broad sea. Yes, the Arctic summer comes overnight! how else would it
+be possible, in the short space of three months, for the earth to bring
+forth flowers, and for the fruit to ripen?
+
+At four a.m. on the 4th of June we prepared to carry out our plan of
+taking the sledge to Hochstetter’s Promontory, but it was a colossal
+work; at every step both ourselves and the sledge broke through,
+and some inches of water stood on the ice, so that our boots were
+soon full. We now determined to leave everything behind except the
+instruments, and, keeping close to the coast, reach the ship as soon as
+possible.
+
+On our way we found the first blooming plant, a _Saxifraga
+oppositifolia_. Copeland and Iversen went hunting, and killed two
+musk-oxen; upon reaching the top we were just in time to take the sun’s
+altitude; it then clouded over, and began to snow. Deep in Ardencaple
+Inlet we discovered a glacier reaching down to the sea, from which, no
+doubt, proceeded the greater portion of the icebergs with which this
+Fjord is filled.
+
+In Ardencaple Inlet and north of Kuhn Island so much water had
+collected on the ice that the mountains were reflected in it; we might
+therefore make up our minds to wade from thirteen to fourteen hours
+through water at 32°.
+
+At eleven p.m. we retraced our steps, with the intention of visiting
+the western hill, which we conjectured to be the beds _in situ_ of
+the brown coal which lay in such quantities on the shore; this was so
+good that it lit with a lucifer-match. By noon we had returned to the
+tent, and after sleeping twenty-four hours began our return march to
+Cape Bremen, which we reached on the morning of the 10th.
+
+By the telescope we inspected the south coast of Bastian’s Bay, and
+found it almost impossible for us to get along with the sledge, which
+we therefore decided upon leaving behind, taking with us on our backs
+nothing but the instruments, the tent, and a few other things. Three
+great difficulties we should have to surmount--the passage of Bastian’s
+Bay, the Fligely Fjord, and Clavering Straits; the whole distance we
+hoped to do in four marches at the utmost.
+
+After a short sleep we began our march on the 10th of June, at
+midnight, each with a weight of from 40 lb. to 50 lb. on his back.
+
+We first tried to cross the bay direct, but this we found impossible
+from the depth of water and snow upon the ice. We therefore went along
+the coast to the narrowest part, which we crossed in two hours, and at
+ten p.m. on the 11th of June we began our second day’s journey; but we
+seemed to have over-estimated our strength, and could scarcely hope
+to reach the ship by the time we had hoped; we had, therefore, to be
+careful of our provisions, which had fallen very low. Fortunately for
+us, we fell in with a herd of fifteen musk-oxen and four calves; they
+were very shy and restless, which we could account for afterwards, as
+Lieutenant Payer had already met them and killed two. We fired four
+shots, and had the satisfaction of bringing down one young bull.
+
+We soon had a bright fire of willow branches, and some Andromeda made
+us an excellent soup, which, with the liver and heart of the animal,
+afforded us a refreshing meal. This day we saw a number of sea-gulls,
+and caught an ermine, already in its summer dress, which we took on
+board. The exertions of the previous days, our constantly wet feet and
+boots, were beginning to tell upon us. The feet began to swell, and
+Sengstacke and the boatswain suffered much. At eleven p.m., on the
+12th, we began our third day’s march, and soon reached the summit of
+the foreland, the height of which we found to be 994 feet. Vegetation
+was here rather plentiful, the willow, the dwarf birch, and a shrub
+somewhat resembling the pine, though not belonging to this group. From
+here we descended quickly to the shore, and came upon a layer of coal
+clay about twelve yards thick, containing a number of fossils, which
+were unfortunately lost.
+
+  [Illustration: FOSSIL FROM KUHN ISLAND.]
+
+As we descended the slope to the coast, we saw walking along the shore
+a she-bear, and two cubs, the size of a poodle, playing together, the
+mother taking no notice of them whatever. No sooner did the young ones
+perceive the hunter than they galloped towards their mother, who in two
+strides turned and stood by them, with such rage expressed in all her
+actions, that we knew we must be careful; finding, however, that they
+were unhurt, she seemed to think only of bringing them to a place of
+safety.
+
+It was eleven p.m. on the 13th of June when we prepared ourselves for
+the most difficult and critical part of our journey, the passage of
+the Fligely Fjord. We kept on the northern side of the straits, until
+we came to the narrowest part, according to Payer’s chart, opposite a
+tongue of land. The water was here from 111 feet to 125 feet deep,
+covered with a thin coating of ice, which broke at every step.
+
+Fortunately, just at the moment when we were going to leave our
+instruments behind, we came upon a firm bank of snow, where we rested
+awhile, and warmed our feet in our hands, and wrung out our stockings,
+after which we got on better, and, had our provisions been somewhat
+more plentiful, we should have felt quite comfortable; but they only
+consisted of biscuit-dust, of which we had two table-spoonfuls at each
+meal, with some coffee and meat.
+
+At two a.m. on the 15th we started once more. The road was good, but
+the diminution of our strength was more and more perceptible. Every
+little while we had to rest. We were now passing through a great
+valley in which were some considerable streams to ford. Soon we came
+to a broad, deep river, with a strong current. After several attempts,
+we at last pitched upon a spot in which, sinking up to the waist, we
+succeeded in crossing.
+
+It now seemed necessary to leave our things behind. Sengstacke was
+not well, and we were not much better, and, as we did not wish to get
+really ill by remaining in our wet things, we thought it better to
+hurry on to the ship.
+
+At eight p.m. on the 15th all was ready for starting, when a snow-storm
+set in, and we began to think of murdering some of the Boatswain birds
+(_Lestris parasitica_) which were flying about us, when Iversen
+descried a fine reindeer, and a luck shot brought it to the ground.
+
+At eight a.m. on the 16th we started for our last march; the snow in
+Clavering Straits, at which we had secretly quailed, we found firmer
+than we expected, so that we soon came to the island, and, after
+eighteen hours’ march, trod the deck of our good Germania at two a.m.
+on the 17th of June.
+
+The hearty welcome we received from Captain Koldewey, Dr. Pansch, and
+Lieutenant Payer greatly enhanced the pleasure of our return. Some days
+later Sengstacke fetched the instruments which we had left behind.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XIV.
+
+        EXCURSIONS TO SABINE AND CLAVERING ISLANDS, TO EXAMINE
+               REMAINS OF THE ESQUIMAUX SETTLEMENTS.[87]
+
+   Hut-ruins and graves on Sabine Island.--Bone
+   implements.--Previous condition of these huts and
+   their inhabitants.--Tent-circles.--Sole traces of
+   the Expedition of Sabine and Clavering.--Esquimaux
+   remains on Klein Pendulum.--Ethnology of Shannon.--Boat
+   journey to Clavering Island.--Clavering’s statement
+   regarding the Esquimaux.--Hut-ruins and graves by Cape
+   Mary.--Vegetation.--Misadventure at night.--Further progress
+   hindered by the ice. Journey to Clavering’s Esquimaux
+   hamlet.--Luxuriant vegetation.--Examination of deserted
+   settlements.--Probable fate of the original inhabitants.--Return
+   to boat, and so to ship.
+
+
+As everywhere else, so also in the Arctic regions, the question of the
+existence of a population, its civilization, manner of life, habits and
+customs, must be as full of general interest as it is of the greatest
+importance to science. It may, therefore, be believed that we were all
+on the look-out for the natives.
+
+Our eyes and thoughts, which had not yet accustomed themselves to a
+perfectly uninhabited country, had on our approach to Greenland been
+directed to the discovery of some signs of human life--a tent, or any
+dark moving spot; but in vain--nothing broke the brown uniformity of
+the lifeless landscape before us.
+
+On Captain Koldewey’s return from his first visit on shore, he reported
+that there were Esquimaux huts in the neighbourhood, and brought a
+bleached, partially moss-grown, human jaw-bone. In the morning, with
+the help of Peter Ellinger and Wilhelm Mieders, I explored the remains
+of an Esquimaux settlement on the afterwards named “Observatory
+Peninsula.”
+
+  [Illustration: RUINED ESQUIMAUX HUTS AND TENT-RINGS.]
+
+On the shore facing the south-west we discovered a long row of graves,
+heaps of stone so evidently built by the hand of man that they must
+at once strike the eye; besides these were the upper parts of four
+well-preserved earth-huts belonging to the natives. These were
+remarkable, even in the distance, by a small crater edged with a circle
+of stones, the walls of which, together with the whole surroundings,
+were covered with thick green grass and moss. Upon coming nearer,
+square open holes were to be seen half in the earth, built over with
+strong stone walls from which a narrow underground passage led into the
+open air.
+
+  [Illustration: LONGITUDINAL SECTION OF AN ESQUIMAUX HUT.]
+
+The huts seemed to be mostly rectangular, some, however, had the
+corners rounded. The size differed: the length was from three to three
+yards and a half, the breadth two, and the height about one. The walls
+were most artistically raised with middling-sized stones which lay near
+at hand, the interstices in which grass and weeds now thrived were
+originally filled with moss and turf.
+
+Within the walls were here and there small niches, we also found a
+larger one in one of the back corners. Besides which between the stones
+were the remains of wooden pegs, which had no doubt served for hanging
+up vessels. The floors of the huts seemed composed of earth and stones,
+and were partly covered with thick close sward. Ice lay in some places,
+and the earth was frozen on the surface.
+
+At the end of the hut facing the sea (south) was a square opening in
+the floor, surrounded with stones about a foot and a half in length
+and breadth, and from half a yard to three-quarters deep; this was
+the beginning of a passage running horizontally nearly parallel with
+the front wall of the hut. This passage was therefore below the level
+of the floor, and was from three to three yards and a half in length,
+opening on to the sloping shore. The walls were built of suitably sized
+stones, also the ceiling, in which for better support long bones and
+bits of drift-wood were found. The whole of this, too, was covered
+with earth and sward. Of a closing door nothing was seen, and of a
+roof there was now no trace. Far and near around the huts, without any
+particular regularity, were a number of small holes or cavities, of
+from a half to a yard in diameter, and not much deeper. They may have
+been used for keeping bacon, meat, and so on, for in some were bones
+of different animals, and others were covered with heavy stones. In
+a wide circle on the green grass lay bleached bones, the remains of
+their meals, mostly belonging to seals and walruses, as well as bear,
+reindeer, hare, and narwhal.
+
+After securing some relics of this “village” and its huts, we decided
+upon digging in the huts themselves. With much trouble we succeeded
+in raising the partly frozen layer of earth, and laid bare the real
+flooring. This was composed partly of the stony earth and partly of
+artistically laid flat stones. A layer of these were found in the back
+corners of about half a yard broad, and ere long the conjecture that
+this had been their fire-hearth, was confirmed by our finding in one of
+the huts a firm mass of carbonized wood, moss, and fat. We discovered
+little of any consequence. Isolated pieces of bones, reindeer horns,
+and walrus’ teeth we found, full of holes bored close together, as
+Scoresby has already described. This arrangement supplies in the
+quickest and surest manner the want of a broom, and seemed to have been
+cleverly filled in with splinters of flint stone. The holes are the
+size of a goose-quill, or perhaps smaller, but those near together are
+equal in size. The bottom (if they do not go quite through) is rounded
+off, and the sides have grooves running horizontally round them. On
+other pieces of bone or wood we observed notches, which were certainly
+cut by stone knives. Completed articles of any kind, we found but few:
+only such as a harpoon-point and a kind of chisel. We remained in the
+dark only as to the kind of roof of these most lamentable of all human
+dwellings, and that, from the description of others, we could imagine
+to have been a flat covering composed of wood, stones, and earth.
+
+If any one wishes to realize the size of such a hut, let him imagine
+ten men sitting on the bare floor and five leaning against each side
+wall; thus quite filling the room. Their stretched out feet would
+touch each other, and allowing for the present shrinkage of the walls,
+the flat roof could have been but little more than from one-half to
+three-quarters of a yard above the head; so that on their knees they
+might have moved about comfortably, but in an upright position, never.
+
+In this wretched amount of room a whole family, on an average five
+or six persons, had to live together for at least seven long winter
+months. One must bear in mind their fur clothing, also that this was
+their sitting, sleeping, and eating room, their kitchen, larder,
+nursery, and so on. It must, moreover, be remembered that there was no
+opening in the walls of any kind, and that neither for air or light was
+there a window in the roof (which such circumstances might warrant, and
+which is the case with some Esquimaux tribes). The only opening leading
+to the dwellings from the outer world, is the before-mentioned small
+square hole in the floor leading to the narrow underground tunnel.
+Through this they went in and out, and through this the air was renewed.
+
+The train-oil lamp for lighting and cooking purposes is the only
+compensation for the absence of a stove. And yet one can imagine how
+with that and the inhabitants together in this confined space, the
+temperature may be kept at a considerable height, if the walls are only
+thick and tight, and the wind unable to blow in.
+
+These huts, therefore, do not stand on the earth as is mostly the
+case in West Greenland, but are half underground, and with their
+grass-covered roofs greatly resemble mole-heaps on a garden-bed.
+
+About thirty paces from the stony, gently sloping shore, looking south,
+were ten graves, five of which were in good preservation. They were
+from ten to sixteen feet above the level of the sea, and consisted of
+a sort of box, constructed of suitable stones mostly above the surface
+of the earth. The interior was one yard and a half long and two-thirds
+broad, the height of the walls about half a yard. On one of the graves,
+which was still undisturbed, the covering was composed of long flat
+stones laid across, such as are easily found in the neighbourhood. This
+grave we at once examined. The bottom of it, which was nearly upon the
+same level as the outer earth, was covered with a quantity of dried
+willow leaves, which in the course of years must have been blown in
+through the cracks of the walls. The bottom itself consisted of a layer
+of earth and sand, on which lay some stones probably fallen from the
+roof.
+
+A human skeleton, or, indeed, any other object, we did not at first
+see, but soon found the somewhat decayed ends of bones, evidently
+human. We now dug carefully in the hard earth, and came upon a number
+of bones belonging to a human skeleton. It was, however, quite
+impossible, in spite of our care, to get it perfect; and besides
+the small bones of the feet and hands, the skull was unfortunately
+missing. The position of the bones, particularly those of the limbs,
+was strikingly irregular; but from that of the ribs and vertebræ we
+could safely conclude that the dead, when first buried, lay either
+in a recumbent or an upright posture, with the face to the south,
+overlooking the water. If from the first the corpse had not been
+disturbed by foxes, &c., I might, from the position of the arm and
+leg-bones, have believed that it was placed upright, although this was
+not in unison with the lengthened form of the grave.
+
+The bones were, on the whole, in good preservation, and pretty heavy.
+Their condition made the absence of the skull more conspicuous, and
+gave us reason to suppose that it had either been unearthed by some
+animal, or that the English, under Clavering, had taken it with them
+forty-six years before. Anything in the shape of weapons, or vessels,
+buried with the corpse, we did not find.
+
+Besides these graves, we were also struck the first few days by the
+before-mentioned “Tent-rings.” These rough stones are ranged in a
+circle of about three yards in diameter, and are more or less firmly
+imbedded in the earth’s surface. The circle has an opening facing the
+water, and is mostly divided into two parts by a row of stones across.
+
+As regards the meaning of these “Tent-rings,” there can, even with
+our superficial knowledge of Esquimaux life, be no doubt. They are
+the stones which once fastened down the tent raised on that spot, and
+which, on its removal, were left in the same place. The back part must
+have been the general sleeping apartment, and that near the entrance
+the place for the lamp-stand.
+
+As these tents must to a certain extent agree with those used in West
+Greenland, we give the figure and description as found in Egede’s
+work:--
+
+“They live the whole of the summer in their summer dwellings, which are
+nothing more than tents raised in the following manner:--they set up
+some poles, or laths, binding them together at the top and roofing with
+a double covering, the interior being hung with seal or reindeer skin,
+with the hair inside; the outside, on the contrary, of sealskin from
+which the hair has been taken, and then smeared with fat to prevent
+the rain or water penetrating. In the inner part of the tent they have
+a sleeping frame made of planks, on which they all lie, and on which
+they place their lamp for cooking. At the entrance, or door of the
+tent, is a curtain made from the intestines of the seal, through which
+the daylight comes. Every father of a family has such a tent for his
+people.”
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 515._]
+
+The remaining traces of the Esquimaux to be found on the island at the
+present day, are the different “Provision-holes,” or “_caches_,”
+lying near the shore and high up in the mountains. These are holes of
+different sizes roughly built with stones, either on the flat earth
+or against a rock or large stone, and now more or less in ruins. For
+instance, when the Esquimaux obtain any booty so far from their tents
+or huts that they cannot easily bring it home, they cover the remains
+with stones, that the foxes may not steal it before they return.
+
+Some isolated pieces of Esquimaux vessels and weapons we eventually
+found in different places on the open fields, and added them to the
+ethnological collection. But besides the traces of the former native
+inhabitants, there were other traces of humanity, which we had eagerly
+searched after from the first, though apparently without success in
+this deserted land. To us any indication whatever of the visit paid
+forty-six years before, by our predecessors of the English Expedition
+under Sabine and Clavering, was interesting. The astronomers were
+particularly anxious, according to the terms of our Instructions, to
+discover the spot on which Sabine erected his Observatory. But in
+vain did we search in every likely place. The task was all the more
+difficult, as we knew that Sabine had brought a wooden Observatory
+out with him; and not until our return, after searching the original
+account near the journey, did we find that the building had stood near
+the first-described Esquimaux huts.
+
+As regards the Esquimaux traces on Klein Pendulum, directly after
+our arrival we discovered three winter huts; they lay close to our
+anchorage, on the gently sloping plain from the foot of the Stufenberg
+to the shore.
+
+As the astronomers had raised their tents on the land, Dr. Pansch
+determined to make an effort to go there, although the inflamed state
+of his wounds scarcely allowed of it.
+
+These huts were in much the same condition as those on Sabine Island,
+and their whole construction and position were perfectly similar. The
+walls only seemed a little higher, and the corners more rounded off.
+In two the “tossut” or entrance tunnel was in good preservation. We
+also found some tent-rings, but no graves. At Cape Desbrowe, however, a
+little farther off, were some from which we took a well-preserved skull.
+
+We found no winter huts on Cape Philip Broke, although this must have
+been the only point of the island on which they could have stood. On
+the other hand tent-rings and _caches_ were so crowded on the
+projecting-land point that we jokingly suggested that the Esquimaux
+must have held their chief markets here. The tent-rings did not merely
+lie near each other, but in many cases over-lapped one another,
+distinctly showing that they must be of different ages; they do not
+either necessarily show that one and the same family always returned to
+the same spot every year; and from these traces of an ever-changing and
+most likely short summer sojourn, it is likewise impossible to attempt
+to decide upon the number of the former inhabitants, as some writers
+have done. These are, however, excusable mistakes of those who have
+either not seen for themselves, or have only cursorily noticed these
+things.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 516._]
+
+It was understood that before leaving Pendulum Island we should seek
+out the spot where, forty-seven years before, Clavering met the
+natives. For his account of the meeting, I refer the reader to his own
+narrative.
+
+The fitting time seemed now to have come, and after several inspections
+of the ice from the neighbouring mountains, we found that it was
+possible, in the direction of Gael Hamkes Bay, to advance with a boat
+to within a short distance of our goal.
+
+  [Illustration: PORTIONS OF ESQUIMAUX IMPLEMENTS.]
+
+The large boat was therefore fitted up with provisions for eight days,
+and a tent: besides Captain Koldewey and the Doctor, were Lieutenant
+Payer, Mr. Tramnitz, Peter Iversen, Theodore Klentzer, and George
+Herzberg.
+
+On the 14th of July, at three p.m., we started with fine weather;
+but owing to a calm were confined to rowing under the dusky cliffs
+of Walrus Island, where the Burgomaster-gull wakes the echoes with
+its everlasting scream, and the black guillemot (_Uria grylle_)
+pipes gently as it swims; along went the boat, eventually taking a
+south-westerly direction towards Flache Bay.
+
+The road was open; only here and there floated large or small
+ice-floes. We passed the glaciered snow slopes of Cape Wynn, and by
+half-past eight reached the very flat bay about a fathom deep, which
+we entered. The bottom was composed of soft mud, produced by the
+infalling of a considerable gutter or drain. The water was of elevated
+temperature (we found it 39°), whilst without the thermometer had
+previously shown only 34°. Besides some solitary burgomaster gulls,
+which seemed to have built their nests in the rocks, and a few eider
+ducks, we saw a bear in the distance. A calm still reigned, so that it
+was ten o’clock before we reached the steep cliffs seen from Sabine
+Island; as a little to the north of these lay a small flat promontory
+and a good anchorage, we determined to pass the night here, hoping
+for a better wind and greater speed the next morning. Vegetation
+was vigorous, and that not only in damp places. A few plants of
+_Cerastium alpinum_ covered spots of a square-foot in size. Here
+we started a hare, but unfortunately could not kill her.
+
+On the 14th we again visited the southern projection of the promontory
+where some Esquimaux had lived; but we found nothing but tent-rings,
+and the earth was covered with bleaching bones of animals; here we
+were struck with the large quantity of marine plants washed up by the
+ice and tide, along the bank, or in the hollows; it was mostly the
+large-leaved _Laminaria_.
+
+In the meantime a light sou’-wester had got up, and we returned
+hurriedly to the boat and rowed along the coast southward. Later on we
+thought it advisable to put up our sail, and with the help of the oars
+to cross to the other side, where Lieutenant Payer landed, bent on a
+geological expedition along the shore.
+
+Ice-blocks were now more numerous, though they did not hinder our
+progress. Here we saw a curious sight; a whole flock of eider ducks in
+a row upon the water, fishing and cleaning themselves; they were nearly
+all drakes, but one or two had brown plumage. Similar flocks of eider
+drakes have been often noticed. It is supposed that they take flight
+together in a northerly direction, as later in the year they are not
+seen.
+
+By noon we reached Cape Borlase Warren in bright sunshine, and our
+excursions began. This cape forms a slight ridge, rising by degrees
+to the high mountains of the interior; the distant slopes to the
+east were sparingly covered with grass, whilst on the southern bank,
+between and under the rocks, grew the thickest and most vigorous grass.
+Here was now a new real sea-shore plant, the thick-leaved star-wort,
+_Helianthus peploides_, reminding us vividly of our German downs.
+Like the _Cochlearia_, however, it did not grow exactly on the
+shore, but higher up on the bank. Our zoological collection was also
+increased by a long-tailed duck (_Harelda glacialis_), shot by Mr.
+Tramnitz; there were also numerous relics of the natives, tent-rings,
+and some ruined graves. Upon closer inspection we found two more winter
+huts and some undisturbed graves; amongst which we for the first time
+came upon one divided by a low partition wall into two parts, from both
+of which we took the well-preserved skull of a seven-year old child,
+and some bones; we also found amongst the rocks the half of a Kajak
+oar quite bleached.
+
+About three o’clock we continued our way; Dr. Pansch, Lieutenant Payer,
+and P. Ellinger going along the shore, and the rest in the boat to
+Gael Hamkes Bay. For the first time the bank showed a fine sandy open
+shore, and at the tide mark lay a number of dried marine plants. About
+ten or twenty steps from this broad sandy shore, was a beautiful green
+band of meadow-land, the _Pedicularis hirsuta_ being particularly
+luxuriant.
+
+Marching around several bays, we halted on a point of rock projecting
+far into the sea, to wait for the boats. We then steered westwards, the
+steep mountains of Clavering Island coming nearer and nearer. Here we
+saw a young reindeer peeping from behind a hillock, not far from the
+shore.
+
+The number of ice-floes increased considerably, and though not exactly
+in our way, we were obliged to go out of our course to avoid them.
+Towards the middle of the bay the ice became denser, frequently
+assuming fantastical forms.
+
+The further we advanced, the more unlikely it seemed that we could
+reach Clavering Island with the boat; but by keeping along the bank
+we constantly came upon open channels; and thus about evening time,
+reached a low promontory opposite Cape Mary, the most easterly point
+of Clavering Island. The straits, to our great joy, were almost free
+from ice; as there was a calm, the steep mountains rose from a mirrored
+surface, over which occasionally sped a diver or a pair of ducks. It
+was the most perfect summer picture of a beautiful northern Fjord seen
+for the first time.
+
+We now made straight for Cape Mary, hoping to reach it soon, as the
+water was free from ice; but the distance was greater than we supposed,
+and we were still far from land, when we were surrounded by numerous
+ice-floes, and soon we were in a perfect labyrinth, through which
+we laboriously made our way. Somewhat more to the south-west lay a
+suitable spot for our encampment; a large green plain, promising both
+protection and a supply of fresh water. Indeed, so thick and luxuriant
+was the grass, that we conjectured it must formerly have been an
+Esquimaux settlement, and we were not wrong.
+
+We landed at eleven p.m. We found some very old winter huts, which must
+have been long since forsaken; they were so decayed and overgrown, that
+we could scarcely recognize them, only here and there stood a piece
+of wall. Thick moss covered the ground and grew in the entrance, the
+tender star-wort, long small blossoming saxifrages, and fine-haired
+grasses and sedges sprouted in the walls. Finely developed blossoms
+of the _Poa_, and other species, were also there, and the
+yellow-headed dandelion _(Taraxacum phymatocarpum_, Vahl). Farther
+on, where the earth was drier, the cinquefoil flourished in large
+bushes, as well as the fresh sprays of the _Oxyria_.
+
+We were also delighted by quite a new plant, the slender rich-leaved
+_Epilobium latifolium_ (L.), with large lovely red flowers; also
+the yellow-head of the _Arnica alpina_ (Murr.); and in some places
+we collected fine samples of the _Sedum rhodiola_; a bell-flower
+(_Campanula uniflora_, L.) was unfolding its first dark blue bells;
+thus all the elements of a lovely bouquet were present. White was
+represented by the _Dryas_, which here, as on Sabine Island, bore but
+few blossoms, though much finer ones. Of other plants may also be
+mentioned, _Polygonum viviparum_ (L.), _Wahlbergella apetala_ (Fries.),
+_Oxyria_, _Taraxacum_, _Potentilla_, and _Saxifraga_. It was now one
+o’clock, and we retired to rest. Dr. Pansch and Captain Koldewey made
+the boat their couch, but it was an uneasy one; for as the water sank,
+it left it leaning on one side on a rock, so that they were rolling
+down upon each other; scarcely had they again fallen asleep in this
+uncomfortable position, when, with a jerk, the boat fell from the rock,
+and the whole concern, men, chests, and boxes lay in the water, from
+which we with difficulty rescued them.
+
+The south coast of the island was completely beset with ice, partly
+drifting, and partly firm, and seemingly stretching to the southern
+shore and Jackson Island. To advance further with the boat was
+absolutely impossible, and our hopes of landing at the Esquimaux
+village, making a rich ethnological collection, and then exploring the
+land to the west were destroyed: and we were at least five German miles
+from our destination.
+
+Koldewey then made some astronomical observations, took the necessary
+steps for observing the tide, and about half-past ten we continued our
+journey; with difficulty we sprang from stone to stone, or sought a
+path more inland. The skeleton of a reindeer attracted our attention;
+the skull was still fast to the fore parts of the body, while the hind
+part lay bleaching at a short distance, and farther on lay the leg
+bones still hanging together.
+
+In opposition to this picture of death, our eyes were almost
+immediately afterwards cheered by blooming life as we continued our
+way at the feet of the steep mountain chain. Growing among the loose
+pebbles and in the rocky crevices was the beautiful _Polemonium
+humile_ (Willd.). Such blossoming splendour we had not yet seen in
+Greenland, and for the moment forgot that we were in the far North; we
+had already known the plant in Germaniaberg and Klein Pendulum, but
+there it was nothing to this luxuriance! The vigorous pinnate leaves
+were more than half a foot long, the blossom the bulk of a good-sized
+apple, and on this the flowers were crowded of the clearest and most
+lovely blue, and at some considerable distance we could smell the
+aromatic perfume of its leaves.
+
+The south-easterly projection of the Cape rose in steep low cliffs
+sheer from the water, so that we were forced to climb and go along
+the ridge. Here was plentiful vegetation, but nothing new. We also
+came upon some tent-rings and some rectangular graves, most carefully
+built, which had evidently never been opened; indeed, these traces
+of the natives must have been very ancient. We should have liked to
+open the graves, and many sitting at home in a warm room may think
+it inexcusable that we did not do so; but our head-quarters were our
+end and aim, and the sky warned us not to delay our march. It was
+possible that we might have both rain and fog, neither of which would
+conduce to the success of our enterprise, nor to the march over these
+unknown mountains; so we hurried on down the hills to the shore. Here
+we had a fine glimpse of the mainland with its blue heights, though
+far more imposing were the steep mountains of Jordan Hill Island which
+rose before us. A small rocky point projecting into the water was
+interesting from the statue-like form which the basalt had assumed. The
+inaccessible heads of the most isolated columns offered a favourable
+breeding spot for many pairs of gulls; from which we concluded that
+the water here must keep longer free from ice.
+
+Near these rocks we again met with the _Helianthus peploides_; it
+was in full bloom, and covered a considerable spot with uninterrupted
+green. Now and again, for an instant, we could see the high tops
+soaring perpendicularly above us through the clouds of fog there, the
+whole heavens and the landscape thickly veiled, and at last a fine rain
+began to fall. Vegetation gained both in height and extent, and when
+the fog rose for a moment we could see all the soft slopes for more
+than 300 yards high distinctly green. In plants, besides fine bushes of
+bilberry and Andromeda, and the frequently recurring arnica was a new
+Composite, the _Erigeron eriocephalus_ (Vahl).
+
+Worth noticing here was the discovery of a piece of whalebone,
+and that most of the plants of the common saxifrage (_Saxifraga
+oppositifolia_) bore light flesh-coloured blossoms. Several large
+and small pieces of drift-wood too were seen.
+
+Thus, amid continued fine rain, we reached the most southerly
+promontory; and upon climbing to the heights, we saw a bay cutting
+deep into the land, and by the help of glasses could plainly descry in
+the midst of a large green plain some dark spots, which were evidently
+Clavering’s Esquimaux settlement.
+
+We opened two of the few graves strewn about: they, too, were long and
+quadrangular. Here we could distinctly see that the roof-stone, being
+too short, had been supported lengthwise and across with pieces of
+drift-wood. There was nowhere the slightest trace of either bones or
+tools.
+
+We saw a herd of about fifteen stately reindeer grazing at a little
+distance from us, but at our approach they drew quietly off to the
+mountains.
+
+Except some hares sitting in the distance, and scarcely to be
+distinguished from white stones, we saw one solitary ptarmigan in its
+summer plumage. We now drew very near to the spot where, forty-seven
+years before, a small band of natives led a peaceful and contented life.
+
+Now we had reached the first hut: there was but an empty room, on
+the floor of which grew high moss and grass; we hurried on to the
+next,--the same sight; a third lay a little on one side; here, too, the
+same comfortless picture of desertion.
+
+With our minds somewhat disabused we laid down our baggage, and
+examined them more closely. As we had always previously found
+them, these huts lay in the neighbourhood of the water. The two
+best-preserved were more to the east, and a little farther on were
+two more, seemingly older. These all had the same build, the same
+position, and the same size, as those on Sabine and Pendulum Island.
+There were also some well preserved tent-rings. The round holes
+(Provision-magazines), too, were not wanting; what struck us most,
+however, was the great number of earth-holes round about the huts: they
+seemed to be the last signs of the oldest buildings, “and we could
+distinctly trace the different stages of destruction. In some might
+still be seen the sharp four-cornered deep hole with the open entrance
+tunnel, but the stone walls were quite wanting. From this we concluded
+that the Esquimaux, when their huts were dilapidated, or from any other
+cause no longer suited them, built fresh ones, using the old stones.
+How else could the walls of the old huts have entirely disappeared? To
+take these heavy stones from the hard earth was a troublesome task; and
+the only object worth their while would be for making graves; but as
+there were none about here, they could not enter into the question. The
+result of all this in our minds was, that long before Clavering’s visit
+only a few huts, perhaps three or four, were inhabited; and that on
+this spot, at least, there could be no question of the slow dying-out
+of a once numerous population.
+
+  [Illustration: RUINED ESQUIMAUX HUTS ON SABINE ISLAND.]
+
+With improvised tools we then set to work on the floors of the two
+newest huts which in Clavering’s time were inhabited. We soon found
+that the roofs had sunk to the ground. That was shown by a strong lath
+hanging slanting from the wall on the inside, so that the earth and the
+growing plants we had removed was not really the floor, but had once
+formed the roof. We dug deeper in the earth, but found nothing. Here,
+too, large bones had been let into the walls, and in a large side-niche
+lay the perfect skull of a young narwhal; in the second hut, still less
+than this was found. So thinking we had done our duty, and judging by
+the height of the water that it must be near midnight, and rain and
+fog seeming to increase, we prepared to return. We took the same route
+back, only sorry that we had not seen this interesting spot in clearer
+weather.
+
+At the large stream we came upon some reindeer, two stately old ones
+and one young one. With curious looks they advanced fearlessly to
+within ten paces of us. Completely wet through we hurried on, the
+strong ebb reminding us of the past night’s adventure in the boat, and
+showing us that it was about three o’clock.
+
+Living in this continuous, almost uniform daylight, unfettered by any
+regular partition of daily work, simply following up one object, has a
+strange effect upon one; something can certainly be accomplished by its
+means, but to go on for long in such a life, even if one’s health kept
+good, would be impossible.
+
+After breakfast we lay down to rest, but as the rain had left off we
+preferred the dry grass to the tent. Upon awaking, we went to inspect
+the neighbouring graves. We opened them all, and were rewarded by
+finding a number of fine skulls and other bones. Interesting to us was
+a small figure carved out of wood lying in a child’s grave. So that
+these human figures, found also by Graah, in South-East Greenland, are
+not idols, but merely children’s toys.
+
+Thus the great object of this excursion had been accomplished, and we
+determined to return. Stiff with cold (it was 29.75° Fahr.) we arrived
+on board at half-past seven on the morning of the 18th of July, to the
+great astonishment of our pilot, who had not expected us so soon.
+
+
+
+
+                              CHAPTER XV.
+
+        THE GERMANIA STEAMS NORTHWARDS. 22ND TO 31ST JULY.[88]
+
+   Voyage of the Germania towards the North.--Ascent of the
+   highest points of Klein Pendulum.--Damage to the boilers of
+   the Germania.--The so-called open Polar Sea.--Attainment
+   of 75° 29′ N.L.--Shannon.--Cape Börgen.--Solid barrier
+   of ice northwards.--Abandonment of the attempt to push
+   northwards.--Course to the south.
+
+
+The scientific work on Sabine Island and its neighbourhood might now
+be considered finished. The ship was quite ready to sail; the latest
+observations, as taken from the Germaniaberg, with regard to the ice
+were favourable, there being much open water, and it therefore seemed
+to be a suitable time for pushing on to the north. Thus, on the 22nd of
+July, at nine a.m., we left the harbour which had been our home for ten
+months, in high spirits, with waving flags, and the loud hurrahs of the
+whole party. Dr. Pansch, Peter Iversen, and Peter Ellinger, remained
+behind to explore some Esquimaux graves, and collect some skeletons:
+they came on board later in the afternoon. Our course was taken in the
+direction of Klein Pendulum, as the astronomers had some important work
+to finish relating to the geodetical measuring. We anchored at eleven
+a.m.
+
+The Captain, Dr. Börgen, and Lieutenant Payer, climbed to the highest
+point of the island. Unfortunately, a fog rose from the north, thus
+debarring all prospect. The Tellplatte, 650 feet high, was soon
+covered; one thing we were just able to perceive, namely, that to the
+east of Cape Philip Broke there was much open water. The fog continued
+to roll southwards, and upon returning on board at three a.m. on the
+23rd, Pendulum Island was invisible, we therefore lay at anchor the
+whole day. Dr. Pansch and Dr. Copeland employed the time in exploring
+the Esquimaux huts, and were well rewarded for their trouble.
+
+The Flora could only be investigated near the huts. There was
+nothing remarkable to be found. As in the spring, there were the
+luxuriant _Polemonium humile_ (Willd.), and the yellow crowfoot
+(_Ranunculus nivalis_, L.), and in dry places the lousewort
+(_Pedicularis hirsuta_, L.).
+
+We also collected some fine blooming specimens of the willow, but,
+on the whole, blooming time was over. Vegetation had already partly
+assumed its autumn tints. We had a good opportunity of noting here how
+little change takes place in the course of time. Spots where the autumn
+before we had placed stones or removed them were still unchanged, as if
+but a few days had elapsed since we had been there. This is important,
+as it confirms the fact that many years must have passed since the
+Esquimaux huts had been forsaken.
+
+On the morning of the 24th of August the fog rolled more eastward, and
+coast and island once more made their appearance. Steam was at once
+got up and the anchor weighed, but it was not to be done so easily;
+a large ice-field, several miles in diameter, had jammed itself so
+close to the land-ice lying east of Pendulum Island, that after a
+fruitless attempt to force our way through we were obliged to go round.
+To increase our difficulties, to the east of the field there was such
+a crowd of blocks, that with all our steam-power we could scarcely get
+through. It was about four p.m. before we had passed the field, and
+found ourselves to the east of the low cliffs close to the land-ice;
+from these we directed our course straight for Cape Philip Broke, as
+this part of the sea was nearly free from ice. At ten minutes past
+seven p.m. we anchored at the Cape, the captain at once climbing the
+nearest hill to see if the water was open on the east side of the
+island. He found that for two nautical miles the ice was loose, and
+there was an open passage.
+
+Farther north, as far as one could see, the land-ice surrounded the
+island to the depth of about four nautical miles. A large field had
+here united with the land-ice, though more easterly there was open
+water to the north, where, as far as the horizon, nothing but water,
+strewn with drifting ice, could be seen. Besides this, the heavens
+on the northern horizon wore a dark aspect as far as the eye could
+see, leading us to conclude that beyond it lay more water,--another
+sufficient reason for talking of an open Arctic Sea, when, from a
+mountain 140 feet high, there is water to be seen, and a dark water
+sky above to the farthest north, and yet we were again doomed to
+disappointment. Indeed, such signs of water as we saw from Shannon
+Island have much to do with the prevailing idea of an open Arctic Sea,
+which is ever cropping up and ever winning friends, in spite of all
+experience to the contrary, and in spite of the weightiest physical
+reasons. Indeed, it is easily shown how little this theory of an open
+sea at the Pole can be accepted. In the icy sea there are everywhere
+small and large places free from ice caused by local circumstances, so
+that often, even from a high mountain, nothing but water may be seen in
+one particular direction.
+
+Dove’s Isothermal chart gives a temperature of 5° under the Pole; we
+may, therefore, assume that here it is more likely to be lower than
+higher. Even in the warmest months it rises but a few degrees above
+freezing. Thus in the Spitzbergen Sea Scoresby, in 78° N. Lat., which
+is still under the influence of the warm current, finds, after twelve
+years’ observation, the following temperatures;--May, 23° Fahr.;
+June, 31°; July, 36°. We found in our winter harbour, under Sabine
+Island, April, 2° Fahr.; May, 22°; June, 36°; July, 39°; August, 33°;
+September, 24°.
+
+In such temperatures the sea will freeze nine months in the year in the
+open ocean; and amongst the high ice-fields in a calm at midnight, when
+the sun is at its lowest, in every month of the year ice is forming, so
+that the influence of the sun alone is not sufficient to destroy what
+is formed in the winter. Under such conditions it is clear that in a
+completely enclosed sea no open spaces of water could obtain; in a few
+years they would be permanently covered with ice. Such a condition is,
+however, nowhere found within the Arctic basin, for the simple reason
+that its waters are not enclosed, but stand connected with the Atlantic
+Ocean by a powerful arm of the sea.
+
+Strong currents, combined with raging winds in the winter, are the
+cause of the breaking up of the otherwise firm ice, so that the Arctic
+basin may be compared to a strong running stream of ice. As has
+already been said, we saw from the hill northwards, as far as the eye
+could reach, water and a dark water sky; it was, therefore, thought
+well to steam on without delay. It was, however, discovered that one of
+the boiler-pipes leaked.
+
+Our impatience to push forward before the open water should again be
+blocked by fields, led us to weigh anchor, in the hope that a 40lb.
+pressure would at least not increase the leakage; but this force we
+found insufficient. We were therefore obliged to lie to, as the wind
+was not strong enough for us to work our way through the floes. That
+same night the pipe was repaired. The compulsory stay at this Cape was
+on the following day (25th of July) turned to account by the scientific
+men.
+
+The peculiarity of this part of the island was the broad, soft,
+billowy-shaped plains, in which but little water ran. Everywhere one
+could see distinctly the effects of the spring snows and hear the
+gently-gurgling melted water.
+
+On the 26th of July, at two a.m., we continued our journey northwards.
+The weather was fine, with a light south-west wind, the temperature
+36.5° Fahr. From the mountain the captain had seen that the field
+blocking the channel by the land-ice had parted, so that a passage
+many miles in length had been opened up to us; there was, however,
+a fog-bank to the south, which soon rolled up and enveloped us. At
+five a.m. it cleared, and we found a quantity of ice ahead of us; we
+were close to the most easterly cape of Shannon, Cape Pansch, in the
+same latitude in which Clavering had to turn back on account of the
+densely-packed ice. Here we lay to, and, climbing a neighbouring hill
+of about 100 feet in height, took a survey. This was not reassuring.
+Closely-packed fields and blocks lay to the north and east of us, so
+that for a time advance seemed impossible, except at a disproportionate
+expenditure of coal. Beyond this ice, however, to our great joy, as far
+as the horizon there was broad open water, so that if only the shifting
+fields and blocks moved from the land-ice we were sure of several
+miles’ clear passage.
+
+Upon the barren earth of the hillock, writes Dr. Pansch, all was a
+desert, but beyond were well-developed blooming plants of well-known
+species (_Papaver_, _Pedicularis_, _Saxifraga_, _Cerastium_, and
+so on); there were also several other plants, particularly a fine
+yellow-blossoming mustard (_Draba alpina_, L.), and the _Oxyria digyna_
+(L.).
+
+On the shore were several pieces of drift-wood. Of birds, besides
+snow-buntings, were a couple of burgomaster-gulls (_Larus glaucus_,
+L.). Near the ship we saw later a diver (_Uria grylle_) fishing, and a
+flock of sea-swallows occasionally broke the stillness of the evening
+with their querulous screams.
+
+Further southwards on the distant hills we recognized some musk-oxen,
+and a fine bear walking quietly up and down on the high, steep wall
+of land-ice, who did not allow himself to be disturbed by the passing
+puffing of the steamer.
+
+We kept a sharp look-out from the hills, and when in the afternoon Mr.
+Sengstacke reported that the ice had moved, we steamed forward along
+the edge of the land-ice, which here made a sharp bend to the east.
+
+Too much attention cannot be drawn to the fact that in Arctic regions,
+having once found a suitable way, a little patience and energetic
+action, to turn every favourable chance to account, is far better than
+blindly fighting against hindrances which can either not be overcome at
+all, or, if so, only at the expense of great loss of time and strength.
+
+At seven p.m. we again stopped, and Dr. Copeland that same evening
+climbed the highest point of the island.
+
+Lieutenant Payer, on the contrary, with the officer O. Trammitz,
+climbed one of the lowest hills. The mountain was composed of syenite,
+which, for the greater part, had split into huge blocks, making the
+climbing anything but easy. The land-ice, which was here from two to
+three nautical miles in breadth, exhibited many cracks and fissures,
+some so broad that Dr. Copeland had to take a plank in order to
+improvise a bridge over which to cross.
+
+During the night a thick fog lay to the east, but with a light north
+wind lifted towards the morning, so that we steamed forwards in fine
+weather, and with the hope of leaving some miles behind us that day.
+The water was quite free from ice; even the pack-ice in the east was
+no longer visible from the deck. Eight nautical miles we made without
+obstacles that day, when the road grew narrower and narrower, and at
+fifty minutes past ten a.m. became blocked by a huge mass; and from
+the masts of the ship no signs of water could be seen. This mass was
+connected with the land-ice; and, unless it should be separated by a
+strong wind, all further advance was impossible. Our latitude was 75°
+29′ N., a few minutes more than we had reached the previous summer.
+
+As the weather was pleasant, we landed to explore the island; and as it
+was clear that this would be the most northerly point of the coast that
+we could reach with the ship, the botanists did their best. They were
+surprised to find so much vegetation on a tongue of land so surrounded
+with ice. Certainly, after getting over the land-ice, we had had to
+cross a stretch of the driest and most barren pebbly ground that we had
+yet seen in Greenland.
+
+There was, writes Dr. Pansch, not the smallest trace of moss. As we
+toiled up the slope in the warm morning sun, we were again reminded of
+the chalk Alps of Switzerland. We stopped upon a height where Andromeda
+grew plentifully, but all the plants seemed nearly lifeless; so dry was
+their foliage that the Andromeda burnt like tinder. The plants on the
+summit were as sapless, though taller and more vigorous; particularly
+some species of grass between the blocks of rock, and some small
+willows.
+
+The whole of this part of the island was, however, not so arid; in the
+low-lying districts and hollows lay masses of snow, spreading into
+ponds, with marshy banks and gurgling brooks running through luxuriant
+green meadows of moss and grass. Here we saw the yellow-blossomed
+ranunculus and the saxifrage; the white-blossoming Dryas opened its
+large flowers, and the Pedicularis reminded us of home scenery.
+
+As was the case on Sabine Island, on our return we came upon large
+tracts of land under gurgling water, which were of course fruitful.
+
+Farther on we collected some well preserved pieces of drift-wood; it
+was in such masses, and had evidently lain so long, that we concluded
+that for miles round no natives could have lived for some time. Such
+valuable material as drift-wood in so accessible a situation they
+could scarcely have overlooked; besides the usual fir and larch, were
+pieces of Alder (_Alnus incana_, L.) and poplar (_Populus
+tremula_, L.), plainly showing that the drift-wood of North-east
+Greenland comes originally from North Siberia; whence driven into the
+sea by the strong currents, it floats in a westerly direction, north of
+Spitzbergen, and is carried on until it reaches the Greenland coast,
+when it takes a southerly course.
+
+We dredged by the ship’s side to thirty fathoms; and though the booty
+was poor, it was interesting, consisting as it did of some elegant
+corals.
+
+On the morning of the 28th of July Lieutenant Payer returned from his
+excursion, reporting that the prospect to the north was not comforting;
+nothing but ice as far as the eye could reach; no signs of water.
+
+No change on the 29th; nothing but heavy ice and a white ice-sky to
+the north. It was evident that until the beginning of the autumn
+storms nothing could set the enormous mass in motion. According to our
+experience, these did not begin before the middle or end of August,
+and therefore not until near the end of the sailing-season; so that,
+as our instructions positively forbade a second wintering, we should
+have to think of returning. The probability of advancing further, even
+in the course of the year, was very uncertain, besides the threatening
+danger to the ship from the crowding masses of ice, and to this danger
+the amount of knowledge gained would scarcely be equivalent. All
+this considered, the Captain thought the best plan was to spend the
+remainder of the time in exploring the coast and the interior of the
+country. Whether this decision was the best must be left to a just and
+well-versed judge; sufficient, that all the officers and scientific
+members of the Expedition unanimously agreed with the Captain.
+
+Steam was got up once more; but at a pressure of thirty pounds the
+boiler-pipe leaked again. During the night our bay filled more and more
+with large floes and blocks, which had broken partly from the land-ice,
+but also came up from the south, threatening to block us up entirely.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 538._
+
+  THE GERMANIA ON THE NORTHERN COAST OF SHANNON.]
+
+At ten minutes past three a.m. on the 30th of July, we again steamed
+southwards.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XVI.
+
+
+       COAST VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA TOWARDS THE SOUTH.--JACKSON
+         ISLAND.--CAPE BROER RUYS.--BOAT JOURNEY.--EXPLORATION
+                     OF FRANZ-JOSEPH’S FJORD.[89]
+
+   Departure from Sabine Island.--Storm from the North.--Landing
+   on the Eastern Cape of Jackson Island.--Excursions.--Further
+   progress Southwards.--Cape Broer Ruys.--Hudson’s “Hold with
+   Hope.”--Boat journey along the Coast to explore Mackenzie’s
+   Inlet.--Esquimaux huts.--Pleasures of boat-journeying.--Icebergs
+   to the South.--Indication of the proximity of large
+   Fjord.--Journey to Cape Franklin.--Payer and Copeland ascend
+   the point of Cape Franklin.--Discovery of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s
+   Fjord.--Payer’s account of the ascent of the point of Cape
+   Franklin.
+
+
+The next day was Sunday; and after all necessary work had been done,
+the men were allowed a short holiday, which they well deserved, and
+which many employed in taking leave of the spot which for a whole year
+had been their home.
+
+But home was not to be thought of yet, since to all appearances this
+summer, as regarded the condition of the ice, was far more favourable
+than the last. From Germaniaberg, towards the south and south-east,
+there was open water on all sides between the floes. At night we had a
+sudden four hours’ storm from the north; this was the first time we had
+seen real storm-clouds in Greenland, although there was neither thunder
+nor lightning.
+
+On the 1st of August, at ten minutes past six a.m., we weighed anchor
+and steamed out of our harbour. Between Cape Wynn and Flache Bay were
+large brashes of land-ice which had been broken in the night from
+Clavering Straits, and driven south; but eventually we pushed our way
+through the masses to Jackson Island, partly for further scientific
+observations, and partly to increase our collection.
+
+We anchored at four p.m. south of the east cape of the island. The
+mountains rose above 1000 feet, and on the east side were steep cliffs
+and slopes, so that close to the shore were still two fathoms of water.
+The astronomers took observations and collected geological specimens.
+Dr. Pansch botanized, and Lieutenant Payer climbed the highest points
+of the island to survey it in detail. Some remains of Esquimaux huts
+were found, also some skulls and sundry implements. Traces of the
+musk-ox and reindeer were everywhere visible.
+
+Upon landing, we had but to cross a short stretch of dark sand and
+stones, when we found ourselves upon a green plain, covered thickly
+with various kinds of grass, and with the blossom of the taraxacum
+and ranunculus. The elegant sprays of the stellaria wound themselves
+far and near, whilst in the soft-cushioned moss were some stiff
+willow bushes. Here in our shirt sleeves we chased the butterfly,
+which was fluttering from flower to flower, it was the small brown
+bluish variegated _Argynnis polaris_ (Boisd.), and _Argynnis
+chariclea_ (Herbst), that we already knew from Pendulum Island; our
+attention was also drawn to a larger fine yellow butterfly, which we
+eventually caught, the _Colias Hecla_.
+
+We also found the already well-known spider (_Lycosa aguilonaris_,
+Koch). It is interesting to know that this species is also met with
+among the glaciers of the European Alps.
+
+Farther westward the thick turf, plants, and grass grew more in clumps
+and bushes. Besides those always met with, was the beautiful willow
+rose (_Epilobium latifolium_, L.); it grew in small bushes by Cape
+Mary; here it was not in bud, but from three to five large blossoms
+perfectly developed, stood close together on one stalk of a beautiful
+red colour. There were also many other beautiful flowering plants which
+have already been mentioned.
+
+Later on the boats took us still more westward; where, on a small steep
+promontory, the burgomaster-gull had its nesting-place; there were
+about six nests, from one of which a hungry young one stretched its
+grey head.
+
+We stopped here to collect plants, and we were not disappointed;
+luxuriant were the leaves of the Oxyria and others in the rocky
+fissures. Dr. Pansch here looked out for something new, and found to
+his delight a row of elegant plants with pale violet blossoms, the
+common eye-bright (_Euphrasia officinalis_, L.), which we never
+met with again.
+
+A walk the next day on the mountain to the west showed us that
+vegetation was pretty luxuriant everywhere. From hence we turned to
+the rocky heights of the East Cape, under which the Germania was
+anchored; here we were met by a flock of screaming burgomaster-gulls;
+there must have been from ten to fifteen nests. Amongst the rolling
+pebbles, nearly under the overhanging rocks, were thick bushes of the
+large-leaved Oxyria in bloom.
+
+In ornithology we found nothing new; but Dr. Copeland picked up
+on the shore several black feathers, which undoubtedly belonged
+to two different kinds of duck, the _Anser albifrons_ and
+_leucopsis_. Sea-swallows were in large flocks.
+
+From the form and position of the land on this spot, we conjectured
+that there might be some ancient traces of the natives, and possibly
+some winter huts; these, however, did not turn up; but we found a few
+tent-rings and some long four-cornered ruined heaps of stone, which we
+took to be graves, but found nothing amongst them. On the cliffs of the
+East Cape, however, something interesting was discovered. Amongst the
+loose stones, Peter Iversen pulled out what he thought to be a piece of
+drift-wood, but it proved to be a regularly worked long four-cornered
+plank, with fine holes along the edge. We turned over the stones and
+found some more planks, also a well-preserved skull and some arm and
+leg bones.
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+How could we account for this strange discovery? Evidently the body had
+been purposely buried under the stones; that it should have come there
+by chance was not probable. We could think of no other solution than
+that of some religious motive. Upon putting the boards together, we
+had a box of 9·4 inches in length, 6 inches in breadth, and about 3·2
+inches high; the boards were one-fifth of an inch thick; it had had a
+partly closed lid, only a space of 1·7 inches broad being left open;
+instead of hinges there were small straps, and on the other side a
+hole, showing that there must have been some sort of a fastening. The
+boards were put together by small wooden nails or pegs.
+
+Without doubt, of all the things we had discovered, this box showed the
+most artistic workmanship; and taking into consideration the little use
+such an implement would be in an Esquimaux household, and the peculiar
+spot on which it was found, the supposition that it must in some way be
+connected with the religious worship of the natives seems justified.
+
+Close by among the rocks, Dr. Copeland found a well-preserved piece of
+a stone vessel, which the Esquimaux hang over their lamps; it seemed
+to have been rounded off at the edges, was long and four-cornered and
+about three inches and three-quarters thick; it was of opaque stone and
+carefully worked. The underneath part and sides were covered with a
+coating of soot.
+
+From all this we gathered that the island had been visited by the
+natives several times, but that they had made no long stay, possibly
+because the neighbourhood was not favourable to the musk-ox and other
+animals.
+
+During the night large masses of land-ice were loosened, which set
+with great speed eastward, so that towards the morning of the 2nd
+of August we could see from the neighbouring mountain of 800 feet
+high that southward to Cape Broer Ruys and beyond there was much
+open water. Lieut. Payer suggested exploring Gael Hamkes Bay; but
+upon consideration Captain Koldewey thought it better to go further
+south, and if possible penetrate into one of the larger sounds, either
+Scoresby’s Sound, or Davy Sound, as Scoresby reported that they
+stretched far inland.
+
+The weather remained fine and bright, with light sou’west and west
+winds, thereby driving the ice from the land and opening a free passage
+for us. In the best of spirits we weighed anchor on the morning of
+the 3rd of August, and steered south in a temperature of 11° to 13°
+above freezing. After going some distance, as there was apparently an
+impassable block of ice to the south, we steered westward, and anchored
+under the coast. One glimpse from the mountains above showed that, as
+far as the eye could reach, the ice lay firm to the land, and that the
+entrance to the great Sound at that time was impracticable. Bontekoe
+Island was enclosed in ice.
+
+We therefore agreed upon a boat journey along the coast to westward, to
+investigate what on Clavering’s chart was marked as Mackenzie Inlet.
+The further we advanced southward the greener and more beautiful became
+the country. Comparing these far stretching valleys and mountain
+slopes and the in some places luxuriant growth of grass and sward
+with the scant vegetation of Sabine Island, we could scarcely believe
+that we were not more than one degree of latitude from it. Many herds
+of reindeer were grazing here, and musk-oxen were by no means rare.
+At noon the temperature rose to above 54°, and in swampy places were
+swarms of mosquitos (_Tipula truncorum_, Meig.).
+
+Of birds, besides snow-buntings there were some shore-birds, such as
+_Strepsilas interpres_ and _Tringa maritima_. Except a few
+tent-rings, nothing reminded us of the Esquimaux. Farther westward the
+appearance of the ground changed; the whole promontory was covered
+with vegetation resembling the early spring-time at home when the
+fresh green is everywhere, but the growth of the plants is still low.
+Here the different kinds of knotgrasses; two kinds of cotton-grass,
+_Eriophorum polystachium_ (L.), and _Eriophorum scheuchzeri_
+(Hppe.), and several kinds of _Carex_, as well as _Juncus
+biglumis_ (L.), and other plants before mentioned, flourished.
+
+In several places we met with the bilberry (_Vaccinium_): this
+was the most northerly point of the coast, and though the plants were
+plentiful they were low and the wood soft; signs of fruit or blossom
+were nowhere to be seen.
+
+When the boat started for Mackenzie Inlet, Dr. Pansch remained on
+board, although everything seemed to promise well both for ethnology
+and botany, but he thought it his duty to pay some attention to marine
+zoology, and hoped to bring up some fine specimens of the sea Fauna
+and Flora at great depths. The first dredge near the ship, at from
+three to five fathoms, gave crustacea, mussels, cockles, and worms, as
+well as some small slimy fish which were not new to us. Our hopes of
+enriching our collection failed partly from stormy weather, and partly
+because Dr. Pansch was suffering under peculiar circumstances, at one
+time being in an excited nervous state, and at another in apathetic
+drowsiness: rest and much sleep, however, soon relieved these symptoms.
+
+In the evening we shot five reindeer easily, the herd being so
+confiding that they allowed themselves to be surrounded before they
+thought of moving. We therefore rejoiced in some fresh meat, which
+lately had been scarce. From constant motion in the fresh air the men’s
+appetites were so great that the cook grumbled from morning till night
+that he could never satisfy the men. With such nourishment our strength
+increased, our working powers were doubled, and universal good spirits
+reigned on board the Germania.
+
+On the 5th of August preparations were made for a boat journey, and on
+the 6th we sailed at nine a.m. with provisions for eight days. The wind
+blew fresh from the north, and the water was as flat as the land, which
+just here rose but little. After a course of eight nautical miles we
+came to a tongue of land, beyond which the coast took a curve to the
+north-west. From here we soon saw that Mackenzie Inlet was only a creek
+into which a stream fell, often running through a valley. We sailed to
+the end of the creek and landed. Our men gazed with longing eyes on
+some reindeer which were feeding near, and soon shot one. Close against
+the shore, under the green slope of a hill, were the remains of some
+Esquimaux huts, evidently much older than those on Clavering Island.
+Whilst Dr. Copeland investigated these, Dr. Börgen and the Captain took
+the bearings of our position. During the morning we had made twelve
+nautical miles in three hours, and now spent the whole afternoon on our
+work. In the evening the Captain and Dr. Copeland climbed a hill lying
+to the north-west, about 475 feet high: from thence we could see the
+end of Loch Fine, the Fjord discovered by Clavering in 1823, behind
+which rose a highly picturesque mountain chain. Before us lay a plain
+stretching far to the south-south-west as far as Cape Franklin, and
+disappearing with a mountain chain to the west, marked on our chart
+as Bennet Island. Beyond this plain, near Cape Franklin, glittered a
+number of icebergs, bringing us to the conclusion that yonder must
+be the mouth of a large Fjord; for along the coast we had seen no
+glacier from which they could have sprung. Delighted with this apparent
+discovery we returned to the tent, agreeing that the next morning we
+would make for Bennet Island, and if possible advance as far as Cape
+Franklin.
+
+It was the 7th of August. The sky was clouded in the east, and it had
+rained hard in the night. But it cleared at ten o’clock, and we set
+sail with a light south-easterly wind. This soon lulled, and we had
+to take to the oars, so that we did not reach Cape Bennet until the
+afternoon, when we had to seek protection in the tent from the rain.
+
+On the morning of the 8th the fog seemed to have dispersed, and we
+steered straight for Cape Franklin. The icebergs increased and although
+the land retreated to the south-west, we could still see no glaciers.
+It was evident to us that we were on the point of making an important
+discovery. At two nautical miles east of the Cape we were obliged to
+halt. The ice lay fast to the land, and sheer across the mouth of the
+Fjord, forming a barrier that our ship could not force. The boat must,
+therefore, be tugged over, but before doing this it was advisable to
+ascertain whether it was navigable.
+
+Tent and tools were therefore landed, and Copeland and Payer prepared
+to climb the mountain, 4550 feet high. After doing all necessary work,
+we followed, and Börgen and the Captain mounted a rocky height of 475
+feet, from whence their astonished eyes beheld a landscape, which was
+indescribable in its extraordinary grandeur. The interior of Greenland
+lay there like a splendid picture, displaying the Alpine world in its
+highest style. At our feet lay the mouth of a great Fjord, or rather
+arm of the sea, perfectly free from drifting ice, but covered with
+numerous icebergs of from 95 to 190 feet high, and stretching westward
+in the far, far distance, then seeming to divide into several arms,
+rising even higher and higher into the regions of eternal snow and ice.
+
+This was a moment which richly rewarded us for all our troubles and
+difficulties. Before us lay in all its virgin beauty the mirrored
+surface of these unknown waters, and if only we could succeed in
+bringing up our ship, what scope was there for science and discovery;
+aye, even into the very heart of Greenland! But it seemed almost
+impossible, a mailed ship could never break through this barrier of
+many feet. There was therefore nothing for it but to pull the boat
+over; preparatory to this we were to have a little rest, especially as
+Payer and Copeland could not return before morning.
+
+Koldewey was, however, awoke from a beautiful morning slumber by
+Copeland’s voice, who, looking in at the tent, called to him that the
+ice had broken and was moving eastward. Jumping up, we hurried from the
+tent; to convince ourselves was the work of a moment, when there was a
+loud hurrah! “Now, my good fellows, pack up; we must be back on board
+to-day, and bring up the Germania.” This was answered by a cheerful
+“Aye, aye!” and all hands went to work. Could we yet get over seven
+German miles to-day?
+
+Lieutenant Payer gives the following account of Franklin Point:--“We
+followed a valley running from the mountain (the other side of Cape
+Franklin), until we came to a raging glacier stream cut at least thirty
+yards deep in the perpendicular rock. How should we get to the other
+side? was the question. At last, going up the stream, we came to a
+natural bridge; the capabilities of which we tried by dropping a block
+of rock upon it, and then began a quick march over the declivity,
+fragments of which were set in motion at every step. This declivity
+ended at a high basalt-wall, which cut like a road through the massive
+rocks of the Cape, seeming to isolate them from one another. We
+scrambled through this confusion of rocks over a craggy ridge to the
+edge of a high roof-shaped glacier, and then on to a weather-beaten
+cone, thus reaching the north-easterly summit of the group of rocks
+forming the Cape.
+
+“What an unexpected sight met our delighted eyes! A monstrous Fjord
+with numberless glistening icebergs lay to the westward at our feet,
+with its high many branching rocky masses covered with ice, sometimes
+enclosing real islands with rugged walls.
+
+“More than ten German miles to westward we could see that one of
+the chief arms of the Fjord curved in a south-westerly direction,
+at the foot of a mountain-chain about 8750 feet high. To the south
+the solitary Cape Parry stretched far into the sea, in spite of the
+crowding of the pack-ice which lay silent and stiff to the farthest
+horizon, and through which we should one day have to make our return
+journey to Europe.
+
+“It was eight p.m., as after five hours’ march we reached the
+summit; the temperature was 34° Fahr., and not a breath of wind was
+stirring; and Payer sat down without a coat to sketch the panorama,
+and then proceed to trigonometrical measurement. By the help of some
+solar observations the azimuth of the most southerly point of our
+trigonometrical net was decided, in order to connect our standing-point
+with it.
+
+“After four hours’ stay we went along a craggy ridge to the south-west,
+to satisfy ourselves as to the northerly direction of the Fjord arm.
+At two a.m. we reached a rocky group towering above a snow plateau, the
+altitude of which was at least 4900 feet; and from which we convinced
+ourselves that the chief arm of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord was really
+to be sought in a northerly direction.
+
+“At half-past four a.m. all our work was finished on this spot, and at
+nine we returned to our tent.”
+
+At Bennet Island we rested, after a good meal, though five reindeer
+which we had shot in Mackenzie Bay had already turned bad, showing the
+effects of a Greenland sun. We could easily have provided some more, as
+a herd of twenty-two lay about 1000 paces from us, and dispersed only
+by degrees, with the exception of five or six who seemed to have no
+desire to move; this indolence, however, was not encouraged, the old
+leader of the herd returning and striking them with his horns, until
+they lazily rose and followed the others.
+
+At the south-east cape from Bennet the loosened ice floating eastward
+was so heaped up, that we were obliged to tug the boat. Later on, too,
+we had to make a great curve in order to avoid some large drifting
+masses, so that not until midnight did we reach the ship, thoroughly
+tired out.
+
+
+
+
+                             CHAPTER XVII.
+
+
+      SAILING INTO THE FJORD.--ASCENT OF PAYER’S PEAK.--DISCOVERY
+         OF PETERMANN PEAK.--THE RETURN VOYAGE DECIDED ON.[90]
+
+   Cape Franklin passed.--Entrance into the Fjord.--Magnificent
+   scenery of the Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord.--The
+   Teufelschloss (Devil’s Castle).--Interminable branchings of
+   the Fjord.--Great depth of the Fjord.--Payer’s, Copeland’s,
+   and Ellinger’s mountain ascent and Glacier journey on 12th
+   of August.--Condition of the Germania’s boilers.--A second
+   wintering not in accordance with our strict instructions to
+   avoid risk.--Our return to Germany decided on.--Erection of a
+   memorial cairn at the anchorage of the Germania.--The Germania
+   aground.--Cause of the numerous drifting icebergs near the
+   coast-land.
+
+
+During our absence the crew of the Germania had been much troubled with
+the floating ice, which at times was driven in great masses round the
+Cape; so that Sengstacke was obliged to bring the ship nearer to land.
+With this exception all had gone on well.
+
+The weather remained fine and clear, with a light west wind; we weighed
+anchor, and at ten a.m. steamed through the advancing masses of loose
+land-ice towards the newly discovered Fjord. At first, we had some
+trouble to steer our way through it; but after passing Bennet’s
+peninsula the water was more open, and at five p.m. we passed Cape
+Franklin and ran into the Fjord.
+
+What strange feelings arose within us as we advanced into these lonely
+waters, as yet uncleft by the keel of any vessel.
+
+At first we steered along the northern bank of the Fjord, stretching
+in a west-north-westerly direction, and afterwards changing to a
+north-westerly; but as we noticed a larger branch dividing into several
+arms running westward, we decided upon following that first, as it
+would most likely take us deeper into the interior.
+
+Lieutenant Payer gives the following excellent description of this
+wonderful district:--“We had entered a basin, the shores of which were
+formed by rocks, which for glorious form and colour I had never seen
+equalled. Here were congregated all the peculiarities of the Alpine
+world: huge walls, deep erosion-fissures, wild peaks, mighty crevassed
+glaciers, raging torrents, and waterfalls; which in Europe, as a rule,
+come but singly. All these pictures of wild beauty were taken in at a
+glance. To me the impression given by the high towering rocky mountains
+of the basin was that of some fairy tale. A colossal cubic rock on the
+small basis of a tongue of land stretched itself far into the Fjord,
+rising out of the blue water to a height of at least 5600 feet; regular
+reddish-yellow, black, and light stripes, showing the different layers
+of the stone. The terraces and towers on its edges resembled a ruined
+castle; we therefore called it the Devil’s Castle.
+
+“Never in the Alps had I seen anything even approaching this in
+grandeur. Here a diminutive Matterhorn rose straight from the water;
+there rushed a huge mass of water from some glacier over the giant
+walls deep down into the clear quiet water below.
+
+  [Illustration: London. Sampson Low, Marston, Low, & Searle.
+  188 Fleet Street.
+
+  THE DEVIL’S CASTLE]
+
+  [Illustration: REGENERATED GLACIER IN EMPEROR FRANZ-JOSEPH’S
+  FJORD.]
+
+“Day and night we stayed on deck, every moment bringing some
+astonishing scene, conjuring up as it were some natural wonder, our
+astonished eyes wandering from one point to the other. No sound but
+that of the monotonous click of the machinery and the rushing of
+the keel-water broke the solemn stillness. The transparency of the
+atmosphere showed up every individual feature, and the morning sun
+warmed the blue air pleasantly, in which the smoke from our chimney
+floated in horizontal stripes.”
+
+Further, and further we advanced; until, at last, we thought that our
+discoveries had come to an end, but steering south-west towards the
+“Devil’s Castle,” there suddenly opened upon us a gateway at least two
+nautical miles broad, with wondrously beautiful scenery; and to the
+west, another seemingly endless branch of the Fjord. For some hours
+longer we continued to advance, when the engineer informed us that the
+boiler leaked again, and that he must put out the fire.
+
+On the south side of the Fjord we saw what we thought would be a good
+spot to anchor, which we did in ten fathoms of water at nine a.m. on
+the 11th of August.
+
+This point, the most westerly that we reached, was in 73° 11´ 6″ N.
+Lat. and 25° 58´ 6″ W. Long, from Greenwich.
+
+We now decided upon climbing one of the higher mountains, in order that
+we might have a good general view of the whole neighbourhood. This
+First-Lieutenant Payer undertook to do; Dr. Copeland climbed to one of
+the glaciers, to prepare some contrivance for measuring the rate of its
+motion; Dr. Börgen conveyed all necessary instruments on shore; and Dr.
+Pansch rambled in the neighbourhood in search of Fauna and Flora.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 554._
+
+  MOUNTAIN PEAK BEHIND THE GLACIERS--MORAINE IN THE FOREGROUND.]
+
+  [Illustration: END OF THE GLACIER IN EMPEROR FRANZ-JOSEPH’S
+  FJORD.]
+
+An attempt to observe the tides utterly failed, on account of the
+waves caused by the continual descent of icebergs. A current in any
+direction, either constant or alternating, we could not, in spite of
+the most careful observation, be sure of; the icebergs seeming to
+drift here and there, without being subject to any settled influence,
+and upon the whole changing their places but very little. A regular
+rising and falling of the water was however perceptible, and, according
+to the high-water mark on the shore, the tide evidently rose to
+the same height as on the outer coast. The depth of the Fjord was
+considerable, near the land being 100 fathoms and more, and in the
+middle Mr. Sengstacke did not touch the ground with a 500 fathom line.
+The surface temperature was high, and rose to 46° Fahr., but at
+sixty-five fathoms it was only 34°, and still deeper it was lower. The
+saltness of the water in connexion with its specific gravity, in spite
+of the amount of fresh melted water, showed no difference from that of
+the open sea.
+
+The atmospheric temperature between these steep, rocky walls, which had
+been so warmed from the late steady sunshine, was of course higher than
+that on the outside coast. On board, where, from the cooling influence
+of the melting icebergs, it was considerably colder than on land, the
+mean daily temperature given was--August 11th, 48° Fahr.; August 12th,
+45°; August 13th, 44°: the maximum on the 11th of August amounted to
+53°, and the minimum on the same day only 42° Fahr.
+
+Only once, on the 1st of July at noon, did the temperature, in the
+winter harbour under Sabine Island, rise to 56°, and the mean daily
+temperature on this our warmest day was 47½°. In August a marked
+decrease is to be noticed. On Sabine Island the difference between the
+two months amounted to 5.40°, and we might therefore conclude that here
+in July the temperature of the interior of the Fjord must often rise
+to 58° or 59° Fahr.; how otherwise can we explain the melting of the
+entire winter-ice, as in the summer season the interior of the Fjord is
+not exposed to the influence of the warmer sea water?
+
+On land, in the warm months, the steady sunshine raises the warmth in
+the valleys and on the mountain slopes still higher, and, for these
+high latitudes, a luxuriant growth of plants shoots up rapidly. Dr.
+Pansch thus describes the vegetation:--
+
+“We found it much in the same freshness and vigour as on the higher
+Alps in Switzerland. As on Clavering Island, all the mountain slopes
+were green; though there were large spots of low, woody bushes, namely,
+willow, birch, and bilberry. The willow was the common and only kind
+met with here, the _Salix arctica_ (Pall.); and in connexion with
+its very strong growth is the fact that the rings formed in the stem
+every year had attained .06 of an inch, whilst, as a rule, they are not
+more than from .004 to .012. Fruit we frequently met with.
+
+  [Illustration: LOWER END OF THE GLACIERS.]
+
+“As regards the birch, thick bushes stood alongside the old moraine,
+rising to the height of from two to three feet; though we could see
+that in the hollows it attained even a greater height than this. The
+boughs were thickly interlaced, and in the inside of the bushes mostly
+leafless. That the climate agreed with this dwarf birch (_Betula
+nana_, L., _var. genuina_, Regel) we could tell by the number
+of catkins upon them. Later on we found that a stem of four-tenths of
+an inch in diameter had sixty-seven rings.
+
+“The commonest of all, however, was the bilberry (_Vaccinium
+uliginosum_, L.) which covered the slopes, but did not grow very
+high. Other striking plants were the willow herb (_Epilobium_)
+and the harebells; of the latter, besides the elsewhere observed
+_C. uniflora_ (L.), we found the _C. rotundifolia_ (L.),
+_var. arctica_ (J. Lange), which reached a stately height. Near
+it flourished the evergreen _Pyrola rotundifolia_ (L.), _var.
+arenaria_ (Koch).
+
+“Here on the slopes, at a height of from 800 to 900 feet, was the
+finest and most varied vegetation; and the highest grasses and shrubs
+mostly in bloom, and some bearing fruit. And as a last surprise, we
+discovered the Alpine-rose (_Rhododendron lapponicum_, L.), but,
+unfortunately, the blossoms were over. The same was the case with the
+bearberry (_Arctostaphylos alpina_, Spreng.), of which, in spite
+of all our seeking, we could only find a small bush, on which hung some
+fine ripe fruit. The most interesting find, however, to us, because not
+previously met with, was the moss _Grimmia lanuginosa_ (C. Müll.),
+_var. arctica_.
+
+“Besides birds, we also caught an ermine hurrying between the stones,
+and saw ravens, ducks, hares, and reindeer; of the latter, near
+Eleanora Bay, was a whole herd. The only traces of the natives were the
+remains of store-holes and tent-rings or circles.”
+
+On the 12th of August First-Lieutenant Payer, Dr. Copeland, and Peter
+Ellinger started to climb the glacier. Payer thus describes the
+excursion:--
+
+“Our outfit consisted of climbing-irons, alpenstocks, and an
+eighteen-fathom rope.
+
+“The scenery of the valley was simple but imposing; it consisted of
+massive granite walls, between which tongues of ice were pressed,
+the torrents from which formed a row of beautiful waterfalls; mighty
+gateways of ice, and a number of wild _seracs_, which depended
+from the high glacier peaks in the background like steps. Close by, in
+the glacier basin, which was about six miles broad, from a basis 3900
+feet high rose an isolated pyramid of ice about 2950 feet high sheer
+into the air.
+
+“At first we kept to a tolerable path, trodden by the reindeer above
+the left bank of the stream. The end of the largest valley glacier lay
+875 feet above the level of the sea; and the edge of the tongue of ice,
+which was covered with _débris_, was at the commencement convex,
+and 2950 feet in breadth; then becoming concave, it widened to 7180
+feet, and sloped, in a broken surface, down to the adjacent land.
+
+“We took to the glacier at about 2100 feet above the sea’s level. Its
+surface, like the mountain slopes, was free from snow; and the covering
+of rubbish, which until now had been in one connected mass, branched
+upwards into four central moraines. The prevailing colour of the ice
+here is whitish green; the ice layers the same as those under similar
+circumstances in the Alps. Very different, however, is the surface of
+a Greenland glacier. In Europe they split upon going over any mountain
+step, and the same at the junction of any streams, into a chaos of
+needles and steps. Our ice, exposed to greater periodical and daily
+differences of atmospheric temperature, becomes very much denser than
+can be the case in Greenland, where, for the greater part of the year,
+the low temperature is stationary. Hence the northern glacier-ice is
+less glassy and dense, possesses greater elasticity, and greater power
+of passing over steep descents without breaking.
+
+“Numerous brooks fell spluttering over fathom-deep furrows; the
+inclination was about four degrees; higher up it was more; in some
+places twenty; but nowhere did we need the climbing-irons. The glacier,
+however, from the numerous side streams issuing, from many points, and
+even at right angles, began to be full of fissures.
+
+“The greatest stream came from the south, flowing from a valley
+surrounded by craggy granite walls. The long undulations were split
+into close-lying fissures. We floundered from labyrinth to labyrinth,
+and were forced to make many circuits, and, though sounding carefully,
+I repeatedly sank to the shoulder, the icy spikes rattling down into
+the depths like broken glass. The cords to bind us together were
+indispensable, as we could never, like European Alpine parties, have
+been got out of the depths. Sometimes we stood all together on a small
+band of ice, surrounded by a deceitful covering of snow which concealed
+a dark abyss.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    _Page 560._
+
+  GLACIER OF PAYER’S PEAK, AS SEEN FROM THE NORTHERN LATERAL
+  MORAINE.]
+
+“In the course of my former labours in the Alps it had been granted
+me many times to gaze in wonder from heights of 9000 to 12,000 feet
+upon the majestic beauty of those icy uplands. But what a difference!
+Throughout the whole vast prospect lay the stillness of death;
+scarcely a sign of life interrupted the rough grandeur of the mountain
+land. Instead of the luxuriant plains of our own Alpine valleys, with
+their farms and villages, lay the dark water-surface of the Fjord 6850
+feet beneath us. Countless icebergs floated on its surface, looking
+in the distance like glistening pearls, and the frightful rocky walls
+seemed to descend perpendicularly into it. From every mountain steep of
+yonder valley descended gigantic glaciers, and from the high barrier of
+ice at its lower end the stately icebergs were loosened, and carried
+onward to the ocean by ebb-tide and current.
+
+“One thing attracted our attention more than anything else, and that
+was a monstrous pyramid of ice to the west, rising about 4850 feet
+above a high mountain ridge. This glorious peak could bear none other
+name than that of Petermann, the honoured originator of the first
+German Arctic Expedition: its real height must have approached 11,000
+feet.
+
+“Along the horizon stretched an Alpine world, with countless summits,
+exceeding 9700 feet. The Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord could be traced
+for about forty miles towards W.S.S.
+
+“For two hours I had been sketching and working with the theodolite
+on the top of a rocky projection, and in order that I might not slip,
+had taken off my shoes and stood in my stockings, although they were
+wet through from the long walk in the snow, and quite frozen. This
+caused me to suffer more from the cold than I had done during our
+worst sleighing journeys, when the cold, at 27° Fahr.,[91] had been
+unnoticed. The temperature, taken on the ship at the same time, was
+44.6°, showing a decrease of 2¼° for every 700 feet of height.
+
+“Organic life was confined to a fibrous moss (_Grimmia lanuginosa,
+var. arctica_), and to the black and yellow osier (_Gyrophora
+anthracina_), which are also met with on the highest points of the
+Alps. We left the summit at eleven p.m., taking a new and far shorter
+way back over the ridge of the mountain, and at seven a.m. reached the
+ship after one and twenty hours’ absence.”
+
+We now found that reliance could no longer be placed upon the boiler,
+the machinist informing us that at the utmost it could only last
+forty-eight hours. This was sad news, as all the steam power now to
+be obtained must be used for reaching the outer coast; for with sails
+alone in the heavy calm we should with difficulty be able to work
+our way out of this rocky basin in time, and a second wintering was
+expressly forbidden in our “Instructions.” Our time here, therefore,
+at the latest was until the end of August, but experience had already
+shown that before that time the mouth of the Fjord was blocked by a
+setting in of heavy ice.
+
+There were also many reasons against a boat-journey in the short time
+we had to spare, not more than eight days; we could not, under the most
+favourable circumstances, advance more than seventy-five English miles;
+so that the results of a boat excursion would in nowise equal the risk
+of a second wintering, which must be avoided.
+
+Preparations were now made for departure. Opposite our anchoring-place
+we erected a heap of stones, in which we laid a document recording
+our discovery. We then weighed anchor and steamed in a north-easterly
+direction along the Fjord. A dense fog rose, and we had to find our
+way by the help of the compass, and keep a sharp look-out for icebergs.
+
+At noon we passed the narrow pass by the Devil’s Castle, and kept
+close to the land, with the intention, if possible, of anchoring in
+a fine bay called Eleanor Bay, from whence we could make farther
+investigation. As we rounded the south cape of the harbour, however,
+the water shallowed so suddenly that we grounded, and were set fast in
+the mud. During the night the tide reached its highest, and with some
+exertions we floated once more, and rode at anchor until the morning,
+when we steamed eastward.
+
+At the mouth of the Fjord we found the land-ice pretty dense, and
+between Cape Bennet and Bontekoe Island was such a strong barrier,
+that even close under the land we could with difficulty force our way
+through.
+
+At twenty minutes past eleven p.m., on the 14th of August, three
+nautical miles westward of our former anchorage, we anchored again, to
+take in necessary ballast and water.
+
+On the 15th the Captain and Mr. Sengstacke climbed the cape, which was
+more than 2950 feet high, to inspect the position of the ice. To the
+east the pack-ice was loose enough to steer through, particularly to
+the east-north-east and south-east. Directly in the east the fields lay
+denser, but still streams of water could be seen. The horizon seemed
+strewn with ice. The whole of the coast to the south, as far as the eye
+could see, was covered with numberless icebergs, chiefly from Kaiser
+Franz-Joseph’s Fjord, which, however, never appeared upon the open sea.
+
+The reason of this lies in the depth of the water, which, close under
+the shore and in the interior of the Fjord, is much greater than it
+is farther out. The same conditions are seen here as on the Norwegian
+coast, where a channel of more than 200 fathoms deep runs close along
+the shore, whilst but a little beyond rises the plateau of the North
+Sea from thirty to forty fathoms deep. Our soundings gave analogous
+results on the coast of Greenland. Under Shannon Island, only a few
+miles from land, there was a depth of more than 200 fathoms, whilst
+beyond there was only 100. The same showed itself near Cape Broer Ruys,
+and in the Fjord itself it reached the unheard of depth of more than
+500 fathoms. This is also the reason that in the Greenland seas no
+icebergs are met with far from land. To the south, according to Captain
+Hegemann’s report, they increase in numbers under the land, partly for
+the reason that there many glaciers discharge themselves straight into
+the sea, whilst farther to the north they descend only in the interior
+of Fjords.
+
+
+
+
+                            CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+                      RETURN TO BREMERHAVEN.[92]
+
+   Repeated leakage of the boiler-tubes.--Becalmed.--Disappearance
+   of the Coast.--Dense fog.--Voyage in the ice.--The Germania
+   forces a passage through the ice.--The boiler finally refuses
+   to work altogether.--Perceptible sound of breakers in the
+   open sea.--Collision with an ice-bank.--We reach the open
+   sea.--Joy over our speedy return homewards.--Passing by Iceland
+   between the Faröe and Shetland Islands.--Near Heligoland.--No
+   pilots.--No sail at the mouth of the Weser.--German
+   men-of-war.--First knowledge of the German victories and of the
+   fate of the Hansa.--Salute by the crew of the King William on
+   the safe return of the Germania from the Arctic Sea.--Steamer
+   and pilots.--Arrival at Bremerhaven on 11th of September, 1870.
+
+
+All was now ready for our return to Europe, and on the 16th of August
+our poor patched boiler was heated once more, but as soon as steam was
+up more pipes began to leak, and it was very doubtful whether it could
+be used at all. One more trial, however, must be made; in the meantime,
+as there was no wind, we rode at anchor. Calms seem to prevail here in
+the summer months. During our year of observation, from the beginning
+of 1869 to the end of July, 1870, we noted no less than 2435 hours of
+total calm, 750 hours of which fell in the summer months of June, July,
+and August, being the third part of the whole time.
+
+From this, one may judge how little can be done with a sailing-ship in
+so short a time.
+
+The next morning, the 17th of August, dawned with a dense fog, which
+did not lift until noon, when we weighed anchor homeward-bound. We
+steamed due east, as the Captain intended if possible to force the
+barrier in that latitude, instead of going further south. After a few
+hours the boiler-pipes again began to leak, so as there was a calm and
+thick fog, we were obliged to anchor by a small field.
+
+The whole coast of Greenland was hidden from our sight, and we had seen
+the last of that land which for a whole year had been our home. The
+machinery was repaired in the night, though with but little hope of its
+durability, and we started once more.
+
+On the 18th the wind blew from the south, and the fog was thicker than
+ever, falling wet around us, so we preferred remaining by our field
+instead of advancing blindly into the pack.
+
+We remained pretty stationary, the astronomical observations at noon
+showing but a slight change in the position of our ice-field, though it
+had turned upon its axis ten points of the compass, and that with the
+sun.
+
+We had paid particular attention to the revolving of the ice-fields,
+and found that by far the greater number turned against the sun. Our
+observations were, however, not numerous enough to warrant our assuming
+this to be the rule.
+
+On the morning of the 19th of August, as the fog was lighter, we
+steamed forward in an easterly direction, only a few floes at first
+drifting in our way. But, as might be expected, the ice became denser
+as we advanced into the pack, from time to time passing large fields
+between which lay broad channels of open water.
+
+At three a.m. we came to a chain of floes with a more watery appearance
+than the large fields we had passed during the night, which was
+therefore a pleasing sign that we were nearing the sea. After passing
+round these floes in a south-westerly direction, we came into open
+water for a short time longer. There was still a dense fog, and at
+four o’clock we struck upon a large field, and a row of thick-lying
+floes. After some attempts to break through these masses, we found
+ourselves entangled in a labyrinth of ice showing not the smallest
+opening to westward. Nothing but the manœuvring capabilities of the
+ship by means of the screw prevented us from being completely blocked
+in. But how in this thick fog could we retain this freedom of motion?
+One of those happy circumstances that can never be counted upon came
+to our assistance. At six o’clock the fog suddenly lifted, and at some
+miles to westward we could see an opening. We now steered along the
+edge of the ice-field, at the end of which to rather a broad extent lay
+closely packed floes, and beyond these to our great joy was again open
+water. We had no alternative but to force our way through: and with
+the whole of its steam power the Germania was run into the ice. The
+ship quivered and groaned, but the ice slowly gave way, and we glided
+into open water. The violent shock, however, had been too much for our
+invalid boiler: the pipes again began to leak, and put out the fire. We
+had just time to anchor, in a complete calm, when thick fog set in once
+more. Our position was 73° 17′ N. Lat. and 15° 41′ W. Long.
+
+On the morning of the 21st of August, we made one more attempt to work
+our way out of the ice by steam. But in a very short time, the boiler
+refused its services; and the Captain found that all further progress
+by steam was at an end, and that the remainder of the voyage must be
+made under sail. At this time, however, there was so little wind, that
+the seemingly unmanageable ship soon drifted against a large floe,
+where we lay under all sail. It was still very foggy, but the sun shone
+through, so that we could take our observations, which gave us as usual
+S.S.W., with ten nautical miles for the day’s run; whilst, when nearer
+the coast, they placed us more towards the east.
+
+In the afternoon we tried with a light southerly breeze to sail
+further, but again struck upon thick ice, and on account of the fog
+were obliged to anchor. In the night the south-east wind rose to a
+storm; the ice began to move, which greatly incommoded us, for several
+blocks were driven by the wind against our field, subjecting us to
+great pressure. Indeed, at about two a.m., some large floes threatened
+to crush us. We were obliged to run for it, and tried to pull round to
+the north-west point of our field, on the lee side of which we should
+find more protection from the advancing ice. After great exertions we
+succeeded in placing the ship in safety in a bend in the ice-field,
+where it was made fast with strong ropes, and the men then took a few
+hours’ rest. In the meanwhile the ice pushed itself closer together, so
+that we feared being blockaded in; and yet nothing remained for us but
+to wait patiently, and see what fate would bring us. To set sail in the
+storm and fog would have been still more dangerous.
+
+On the morning of the following day the atmosphere cleared a little,
+though it rained violently: the wind moderated. To the south and
+south-west there appeared to be much open water, to which, exactly to
+windward, led a small channel blocked by several ice floes; and it
+seemed almost impossible to tack against a fresh wind through this
+narrow pass. But it was our only chance of escaping from a blockade
+in the ice. We therefore set sail in the pouring rain, and made tacks
+for the channel. But it was not till after much manœuvring that we
+succeeded in avoiding the floating blocks, and clearing it.
+
+We had now so much sea-room that for a quarter of an hour we were able
+to keep on one tack; and on either side, to the east as well as to
+the west, the ice lay completely closed. Towards evening we could go
+no further either to the south or south-west, and open water was only
+to be seen in the direction we had come from. The violent south and
+south-east wind, which outside had no doubt raged like a storm, had
+driven the ice so together that the Captain felt convinced with such a
+wind there could be no getting clear. As it was quite dark, we anchored
+by a field to wait for clear weather and a change of wind. During the
+night it sometimes rained violently, but it blew more from the east,
+and the rising barometer gave us expectations of better weather.
+
+The following day we again tried to go a little further by steering
+along the field to the north-east, but here, too, as we might have
+expected, the ice was closed; so on account of a fog which had come up
+with the east wind, we dropped anchor once more.
+
+According to the log-reckoning our position was 73° 4′ N. and 15° 32′
+W., but the current had drifted us a little to the south. The icy cold
+of the water (the temperature was near freezing-point) and the work of
+the last few days had exhausted the men, and as we had to be ready any
+moment in case our ship should be threatened by the ice, no scientific
+work could be undertaken. Soundings, too, had to be given up. In the
+face of new difficulties the men required some rest.
+
+In the evening the fog drew off; the wind blew north-east, with a
+rising barometer. This was the first time since our departure from the
+coast that we had had a clear horizon, and an open field of view around
+us. Only to the south and south-east was there navigable water; in
+every other direction the ice was closely packed.
+
+On the 24th of August, at two a.m., we set sail with as favourable a
+breeze from the north-north-east as we could possibly wish for, and
+with a confident hope of being able to break through the belt of ice.
+We worked our way south, leisurely making tacks to the west, according
+to the position of the ice, which lay so thick that we had to force our
+way. To the east still no opening; we must go still further south. A
+glorious breeze came to our assistance, and in five or six knots all
+icy difficulties were victoriously overcome. At three p.m. the Germania
+met a string of floes which showed unmistakable signs of coming from
+the ocean, and we could distinctly hear the sound of breakers. Our
+joy was indescribable, and we thought nothing of running into the icy
+labyrinth at a speed of seven knots. The ship groaned and quivered from
+the force of the pressure, and the stern-post received a shock, that
+for a moment the captain feared for the timbers; but the Germania bore
+it bravely. Driven by the powerful pressure of the wind she bounded
+through, and in a short time we glided into open water, where the
+long-missed swell of the Atlantic greeted us. What cared we now for
+the threatening white fog which surrounded us in thick masses, or
+for the ice-blocks we met, or even for the storms that still awaited
+us? We were in open water, had plenty of sea-room, and that is all a
+sailor needs. “Breakers ahead!” sounded from the bow. The ship was
+running upon an ice-bank lying almost before us, and only by the
+prompt watchfulness of the man at the wheel, who threw the helm hard
+a-starboard, did we avoid running aground. We now steered north-west,
+so as to find a more open spot to windward over the starboard bow by
+which to clear the ice.
+
+A heavy sea raised by the last storm met us, setting all the ice-blocks
+through which the ship had to pass in dangerous motion. But all went
+well.
+
+An hour more, and the last bit of ice had disappeared in the fog.
+In a south-easterly course we now made straight for the Weser. “My
+watch is over!” was a saying of old Scoresby’s, when he was free of
+the Greenland ice, and found himself in open sea. “My watch is over!”
+exclaimed Captain Koldewey to Mr. Sengstacke, as he retired to his
+cabin with a feeling of security that he had not enjoyed for many a day.
+
+Now we were going towards our dear home, and nothing stood in the
+way of our hope of soon reaching it. For the first time a German
+expedition, under the auspices of the black, white, and red flag,
+had visited, for a scientific object, the least known region of the
+globe, and had there sought to solve some scientific problems; we
+might certainly maintain, not quite without success. The North Pole
+we had not certainly discovered, and the secret of the real Polar
+basin had remained sealed. But we had been allowed, by observation and
+investigation of the principles of natural science and navigation,
+to contribute no inconsiderable share of knowledge, both of the laws
+and the principal phenomena of the Arctic world, so that the real
+North Pole question was at any rate theoretically nearer its solution.
+Conscious of this, we comforted ourselves for the many hopes left
+unfulfilled, and the many objects unattained.
+
+There remain but a few words to be said regarding our return voyage.
+Captain Koldewey chose the course past Iceland, between the Faröe and
+Shetland Isles, in order to take some soundings at the confluence of
+the Gulf-stream and the Arctic current, as well as some measurements of
+temperature. But stormy weather, with but slight interruption, lasted
+almost to the Weser, and hindered the work so much, that the result was
+very indifferent.
+
+On the 10th of September we were a few miles from Heligoland. A heavy
+storm blew from the south-west, but in the evening shifted to the
+north-west, enabling us to run into shore. At daybreak, though we
+had seen no pilot, we recognized Langerooge, and steered along the
+South-wall to the mouth of the Weser. No sign of a ship! The Weser
+seemed to have died out. Where are the pilots hidden? Are they lying
+_perdu_ on account of yesterday’s storm? Well, then, we must
+run into the Weser without them; the wind is favourable, the weather
+clear, the outer buoy will be easy to find; there is the church-tower
+of Wangerooge. Suspecting nothing, we steered on; the tower bears
+S.S.W., south-west by south, south-west, but no buoy in sight. The
+Captain and steersman look at each other in astonishment. Can we have
+been so mistaken and out of our reckoning? But no! That is certainly
+Wangerooge; the depth of water agrees, our compass is correct. No doubt
+about it, we are in the Weser; something unusual must have happened!
+Still no sail in sight! But what is that? Yonder are the roads. There
+are several large vessels under steam; they at least can give us some
+information. So we make for them. We saluted the German flag, and soon
+the cry was heard, “War, war with France; Napoleon is prisoner! France
+has declared a Republic; our armies are before Paris!” And then, “Hansa
+destroyed in the ice, crew saved.” We thought we were dreaming, and
+stood stiff with astonishment at such grand and heart-stirring news.
+Not until a loud hurrah for “King William” sounded from a hundred
+German throats did we regain our speech, and answer with another
+“Hurrah!”
+
+Captain-Lieutenant Stenzel came on board, and welcomed us to German
+soil, and from him we learnt somewhat more connectedly the events of
+the last few weeks. From the fleet we procured a tug and pilot for the
+Weser, and on the 11th of September, at six p.m., we ran safely into
+Bremerhaven, where the next morning we had the pleasure of shaking
+hands with some gentlemen of the Bremer Committee, at the head of which
+was Mr. A. G. Mosle, as well as some of our comrades of the Hansa.
+
+
+
+
+                              CONCLUSION.
+
+
+Let us now sum up the results of the second German Arctic Expedition,
+in reference to the light thrown upon the Arctic question by the voyage
+of the Germania and Hansa:--
+
+1. Uninterrupted, open coast-water, along the coast of East Greenland
+has been proved not to exist; it has been shown that the coast-water
+is dependent upon local circumstances, and that the ice-current
+brings down its masses, even when the ice is at its loosest, to every
+projecting point of the coast.
+
+2. East Greenland has been proved not to form a suitable basis for
+reaching the North Pole, even setting aside the possibility of reaching
+a higher latitude by ship along the coast, in favourable years.
+
+3. On the other hand, by inquiries into the geology, natural history,
+and climate of the country itself, and by the investigation of the
+large Fjords and their extent north and south, a new basis for
+promoting further Arctic discoveries has been created, promising rich
+results which may eventually materially assist in solving the Arctic
+problem; more so than any advance on the high sea could have done.
+
+4. No important advance into the ice, nor any considerable scientific
+result essentially belonging to the land is to be reckoned upon without
+the firm support of the coast; and without wintering and erecting
+stations for observation, no thorough investigation of the Arctic
+regions is possible. This last point is further confirmed by the
+results of the latest Arctic Expedition, the leading features of which
+are as follows:--
+
+Even whilst we were in Greenland, Kara Straits, between Nova Zembla
+and Continental Russia, which is so often impassable from the ice, was
+traversed by Norwegian fishermen; indeed, in the year 1870, the whole
+of Nova Zembla was sailed round, and the sea both to the north and east
+of the island found to be perfectly navigable. This circumstance, in
+connexion with the observed proportionately high surface temperature of
+the sea, suggested the belief that the easiest way of advancing to the
+north, or even of reaching the Pole itself, might be through Barents’
+Sea. As is already known, Lieutenant Weyprecht and First-Lieutenant
+Payer followed this course, and on the 1st of September, 1871, reached
+(in 78° 43′ N. Lat.) the meridian of 42° 30′ E., a point comparatively
+remote in this region, although not the first or only instance of the
+kind. The sea, too, as far as 59° E. Long., and in almost the same
+latitude, was quite free from ice.
+
+The ice towards the north is declared to be lighter and looser, and the
+surface temperature of the sea more often between 39° and 41° Fahr.
+From these circumstances, combined with the steady motion of the Polar
+ice, caused by the large ice-current running along the coast of East
+Greenland, the conclusion was at once drawn by Lieutenant Weyprecht
+that this might probably be the best road to the North Pole, and that
+this open sea might be connected with the so-called Polynia of the
+Russians. At Vienna, on the 7th of December, 1871, in a statement
+made before the Imperial Academy of Science, Weyprecht explained his
+reasons more fully. Although these reasonings were not based upon
+altogether correct suppositions, it is true, as pointed out by Dove,
+that the distribution of the Polar ice does without doubt create
+variations in the state of the temperature in different years (and
+that irrespective of any particular spot in the Arctic territory).
+The zealous endeavours of Payer and Weyprecht, however, succeeded in
+calling into existence, in 1872, a still larger Austrian expedition.
+
+Oddly enough, in spite of authentic accounts of the navigability of the
+Arctic Sea, as far as the highest latitude, the project of an Arctic
+expedition on the basis of the Barents’ Sea, was dropped, and the
+exploration of the Siberian coast and the unknown waters of the north
+of Siberia was undertaken. To me this seems to imply that in Austria,
+too, they could not quite trust to the existence of an open Arctic sea,
+as they evidently laid more stress upon the desirability of following
+the coast, and promised themselves richer scientific results than they
+could ever expect from advancing on the high sea.
+
+The Austrian Expedition started in the summer of 1872; but, instead
+of finding an open and easily navigable sea, as in the previous year,
+there were masses of thick ice near Nova Zembla, so that in spite of
+steam power, up to the 18th of August they had advanced no further
+than Cape Nassau, though they hoped for more favourable opportunities
+about the beginning of September. At the same time, some Norwegian
+fishermen found the sea perfectly free from ice further westwards;
+the much-talked-of Wiche’s, or King Charles’s Land, or Weiche Land
+(whichever it is called), was even reached, and its extent decided
+within a fraction;[93] whilst again to the north of Spitzbergen so
+much ice was met with by the Swedish Expedition, that they could not
+even reach Parry Island, where they had intended wintering, so as to
+be ready in the early spring for the sledge journeys, by which they
+proposed to advance to the Pole. And, although this sea was generally
+free from ice as far as 81° N.L., the expedition was forced to pass
+the winter in Mossel Bay, and in the spring attempted vainly to reach
+a higher latitude by crossing the sea-ice with sledges. They did not
+get beyond Parry Island, as the state of the drift-ice (probably too
+uneven and lumpy) prevented them. All exploration had to be confined to
+Spitzbergen during the winter, as well as during the sledge-journeys,
+by which the land ice to the north-east of the country was crossed;
+adding a valuable amount of knowledge regarding the physical condition
+of Arctic countries.
+
+The above implied variation in the position and extent of the Arctic
+ice was particularly proved in the year 1872, by the different voyages
+undertaken, and also by the Swedish Expedition; of the Austrian we
+have no further news. The advance on the high sea led to no other
+result than that of proving the changeableness of the ice-border, and
+to leisurely-made observations of temperature and soundings; which,
+however important and useful in themselves, without the knowledge of
+the extent of the surrounding country and coast and their climate, can
+only serve to assist in forming rough conjectures as to the physical
+condition of the Pole and its vicinity. Even by the reaching of King
+Charles’s Land by the Norwegians no new fact is established, except
+that, what some hundreds of years ago was looked upon as a continent,
+consists only of a few islands. No examination of the land itself was
+made, and nothing but an entire winter passed there will ever supply us
+with any important facts concerning it.
+
+The American Expedition, a part of the crew of which were saved on an
+ice-floe, brings to light the most facts. Their vessel, the Polaris,
+reached the coast of Greenland through Smith Sound, penetrating to the
+highest Latitude ever yet attained by any ship, namely, 82° 16′. It was
+doubtless the most northerly point of Greenland. The supposition that
+Grinnell Land extends as far as 83° N. was confirmed, and the existence
+of musk-oxen and a rich Fauna up to 82° N. of Greenland was proved. At
+the same time Kane and Hayes’ illusion of an open Arctic Sea, which
+proved to be nothing but the entrance of a channel through which ran a
+strong current, was thoroughly dispelled.
+
+This voyage of the Polaris, combined with the results obtained by the
+German Expedition, shows in a striking manner that the investigation
+of Greenland, as the country stretching nearest to the Pole--along
+the coast of which one can penetrate to the north on two different
+meridians--and where such an extensive field offers for scientific
+research, supplies by far the best field for investigating the
+geographical and physical condition of Arctic regions, and consequently
+the real solution of the Arctic question.
+
+In a pamphlet issued by “The Royal Geographical Society” (p. 10), it
+is said:--“The unknown region covers a surface of more than a million
+of English square miles. It is impossible that one single expedition
+could ever undertake the investigation of the whole of this territory,
+and it is therefore necessary to choose that part which contains the
+three chief requirements: these are--1, the certainty of exploring a
+country up to this time unknown, and of some considerable extent; 2,
+the prospect of important discoveries in the different branches of
+science; 3, the best security for a safe return. These leading features
+can only be secured in a neighbourhood where there is a large extent
+of coast-line; for the most important discoveries are to be expected
+chiefly on land or near it.”
+
+All this is as suitable for East Greenland, as for West Greenland, and
+there can be no reason why the discoveries in East Greenland under the
+German Flag should not be continued. It seems to me a matter of honour
+for the German nation, that the further investigation of the large
+Fjord discovered by us should not be left to other nations, but that it
+should garner into itself the seed sown with so much trouble.
+
+An English Expedition to West Greenland through Smith Sound, and a
+German one to East Greenland starting at the same time would, with
+our present experience and means of assistance, certainly lead to the
+exploration of a considerable extent of the unknown Polar area, and
+bring home a rich result of scientific discoveries in all branches that
+could not be obtained in any other way.
+
+May the present work contribute to reawaken interest in Arctic
+explorations, and give a spur to a new Expedition, by which the German
+Flag may have its due share in all scientific discoveries in the North
+Polar region. To take part in the achievement of this object, is my
+greatest desire.
+
+    HAMBURG, Oct. 1873.
+                                                       KARL KOLDEWEY.
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    CHART
+    of the Northern Portion of
+    EAST-GREENLAND,
+    surveyed on the Sledge journey
+    from 24^{th} March to 27^{th} April 1870.
+
+  _Scale 1:1,700,000_
+
+    _Outward journey_
+    _Return_
+    _Encampments_
+    _astronomically determined Points_
+    _Soundings_
+
+  _The depths are given in English fathoms._
+
+  London, Sampson Low, Marston & C^o.
+
+    Lith. P. A. Brockhaus, Leipzig.]
+
+  [Illustration:
+
+    VOYAGES AND DISCOVERIES
+    of the second
+    GERMAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION
+    in the years 1869 and 1870.
+
+    According to the original Surveys
+    designed and executed with the aid of older Charts
+    by
+    W. REINERT.]
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+                               APPENDIX.
+
+                DESCRIPTION OF THE ESQUIMAUX IMPLEMENTS
+
+                   _Figured on plates after p. 516._
+
+
+1. Representation of a human figure in wood. This figure was found in
+a grave on Clavering Island, near Cape Mary. The shape and small size
+of this grave clearly indicated that of an infant. The absence of a
+skeleton did not surprise us, inasmuch as the bones of an infant are
+much more easily destructible than those of an adult. We concluded,
+therefore, that this figure was a child’s toy. Two similar figures,
+roughly carved in wood, were found by Graah on Sneedorff’s Island.
+They remind one forcibly of those discovered by Behring amongst the
+savages of the North-West coast of America, where they are held as
+idols, although (says Graah) they very probably, as in Greenland, are
+used simply as children’s toys. This opinion is also confirmed by the
+consideration of the religious views of the Esquimaux. The present
+fragment was originally more clearly distinguishable than now, as the
+softer projecting parts of the wood have somewhat suffered.
+
+2. A wooden figure of some animal found among the Esquimaux huts on
+Klein-Pendulum. This may also have been a toy, and seems to be the
+imitation of a fox or perhaps an ermine.
+
+3. This is also the representation of some animal, though what species
+was in the carver’s mind it is difficult to say.
+
+4. _a_, _b_, _c_. A sledge-bone, i. e. a piece of bone which the
+Esquimaux fasten under the slides in place of our usual iron tires.
+We can see still the wooden pegs with which the fastening was
+accomplished. We see here also the very beautiful bores by which,
+instead of saws, the Esquimaux cut the bones and teeth into pieces. The
+finely-bored circular holes are plainly to be seen.
+
+5. _a_, _b_. A so-called “woman’s knife” of reddish slate. We
+found many of these in the southern parts. To the smaller and rougher
+side a handle of wood or bone was attached, and fastened by means of
+the holes bored in it. The knife served the women chiefly for scraping
+the fat off the hides.
+
+6–9. Harpoon sockets of walrus teeth, with stone heads. The harpoon
+is the principal weapon of the Esquimaux. At the pointed end of the
+wooden shaft, which is generally made of a piece of walrus-tooth,
+the harpoon-head (siatko) is fixed in a grove made in the stump. It
+is attached by means of a cord, the end of which is fastened through
+a hole, and it is held taut to the middle of the shaft by a simple
+contrivance. At the end a still sharper stone-head is fitted; such a
+harpoon is capable of being thrown into a seal or walrus. This being
+done, the head is easily loosened from the shaft, so soon as the bight
+of the line is detached by a slight jerk of the free end, provided
+only it be held tight in the hunter’s hand, or it is furnished with an
+inflated bladder.
+
+10. Upper portion of a spear-head of walrus tooth, found on the shore
+of Klein-Pendulum.
+
+11. Drawing of a perfect spear, after Kane.
+
+12. One half of a Kajak rudder, found near Cape Borlase Warren.
+
+13. A stick suitable for various purposes. It is not improbable that it
+was a kind of bat,[94] used by the Esquimaux lads to play with.
+
+14. Handle for a dagger or similar implement (or weapon), found on
+Klein-Pendulum. It is very neatly wrought. We see the holes through
+which the thongs were passed, by means of which the head of bone, or
+tooth, was fastened to the handle.
+
+15. Tusk of a bear, pierced at the root. Such pierced teeth were worn
+by the Esquimaux as ornaments, or possibly occasionally as amulets.[95]
+
+16. An object of walrus tooth, the purport of which is unknown, and
+which is only depicted here in order to show the very exact and elegant
+workmanship.
+
+17. _a_, _b_, _c_. Similar object, also of walrus tooth.
+
+18. An instrument of bone which probably, fastened to a shaft, served
+as a hunting-weapon, or had some other purpose now unknown.
+
+19. Needle made of bone, for sewing the Kajaks.
+
+20. Iron knife found in an Esquimaux hut on Klein-Pendulum. The handle
+is of wood and grooved, and the iron blade is inserted, and then is
+fastened by means of thongs twisted round it.
+
+A perfectly similar handle was found in another place, but without any
+iron in it.
+
+This is the only instance of our finding iron material in North-East
+Greenland. Still such iron instruments must always have been very
+scarce. Iron is not anywhere found in the land in the form of ore, but
+it is real wrought iron imported.
+
+As to its origin, two hypotheses only present themselves. Either
+the natives obtain it through exchange with the inhabitants of the
+southern districts, and these similarly obtain it from the west coast,
+in traffic, which, though not impossible, seems to us still very
+improbable;[96] or else it is a piece of the iron which Clavering,
+in 1823, presented to the natives in the form of knives and other
+implements.
+
+
+                               THE END.
+
+
+
+
+                                INDEX.
+
+
+    Akkia Island, 241, 245.
+
+    Alluk Island, 185.
+
+    Angmaksätten (herrings), 192–3, 231.
+
+    Anorak, 251.
+
+    Arctic Basin, 64–65.
+      Circle, 64, 277, 484, 572.
+      Circle, Crossing the, 46.
+      Climate, 440–1, 446.
+      Current, 51, 65, 67.
+      Day, 493.
+      Night, 371, 386, 391.
+      Open Sea, 351–2, 436, 531.
+      Sea, Boundary of, 65.
+      Summer, 502.
+      Winter, 392–3.
+
+    Ardencaple Bay and Inlet, 318–320, 434, 443, 446, 449–50, 458–59,
+        461–2, 502.
+
+    Arsut, 256.
+      Fjord, 202, 256.
+
+    Aurora Borealis, 98, 122, 140, 307, 369, 375, 380, 402, 404.
+
+    Aurora harbour, 246.
+
+
+    Bardsen, Ivar, 212.
+
+    Barendt’s Sea, 575–6.
+
+    Bass Rock, 301.
+
+    Bastian’s Bay, 458, 503.
+
+    Bears, 78, 97–99, 121–2, 124, 144, 147, 266–7, 314, 329–30, 348–9,
+        356, 395–397, 429–30, 442, 465–471, 504.
+
+    Beer, and bread-making, 259.
+
+    Beerenberg, the, 55.
+
+    Behring’s Straits, 64, 121.
+
+    Benedictine nunnery, 212.
+
+    Bennet Island, 546–7, 550.
+      Peninsula, 552.
+
+    Bessel Bay, 429, 431.
+
+    Black Wall, the, 462–3.
+
+    Blandings, 196, 201.
+
+    Boilers, Leakage of, 533, 538, 562, 565–567.
+
+    Bontekoe Island, 544, 563.
+
+    Börgen, Dr., his adventure with a bear, 407–411.
+
+    Botany, 204, 209, 216, 245, 343–347, 464, 475–6, 499, 502, 518–524,
+        530, 534, 536, 540–1, 545, 558, 562.
+
+    Brandenburg Gate, 95, 96, 101.
+
+    Brattelid, 235–6.
+
+    Breakers ahead, 571.
+
+    Bremen, 135, 153, 264.
+
+    Bremerhaven, 266, 573.
+
+    Butterflies, 484, 540.
+
+
+    Cairn Point, 376, 397.
+      Harbour, 278.
+
+    Canoes, 193. _See_ Kajak, Umiak.
+
+    Cape Barclay, 123.
+
+    ---- Bennet, 478, 547, 563.
+
+    ---- Berlin, 315, 323, 450, 452, 463.
+
+    ---- Bismarck, 435.
+
+    ---- Börgen, 289.
+
+    ---- Borlase Warren, 305, 307, 356–7, 367, 380.
+
+    ---- Bremen, 503.
+
+    ---- Broer Ruys, 82, 476, 543, 564.
+
+    ---- Buchholz, 129.
+
+    ---- Copeland, 289.
+
+    ---- Dan, 123, 136, 138.
+
+    ---- Desbrowe, 290–1, 516.
+
+    ---- Discord, 163–4.
+
+    ---- Egede, 192, 203–4.
+
+    ---- Farewell, 65, 171–2, 175, 181–2, 191, 239.
+
+    ---- Franklin, 546–7.
+
+    ---- Giesecke, 367.
+
+    ---- Gladstone, 105.
+
+    ---- Hamburg, 315–16, 322, 452, 477.
+
+    ---- Heer, 429.
+
+    ---- Heligoland, 434, 439.
+
+    ---- Hvidtfeldt, 166–7.
+
+    ---- Igikait, 175.
+
+    ---- James, 82–3, 299.
+
+    ---- Kaksimiut, 239.
+
+    ---- Karl Ritter, 431.
+
+    ---- Klinkerflues, 459.
+
+    ---- Löwenörn, 139.
+
+    ---- Mary, 357, 520–1, 581.
+
+    ---- Moesting, 140.
+
+    ---- Moltke, 144.
+
+    ---- Nassau, 576.
+
+    ---- Oswald Heer, 428–9.
+
+    ---- Pansch, 533.
+
+    ---- Peebach, 429.
+
+    ---- Peschel, 431, 440, 442.
+
+    ---- Philip Broke, 282, 286–7, 289, 291, 295, 300, 476, 496, 516,
+        530–1.
+
+    ---- Steenbille, 144.
+
+    ---- Vallöe, 166.
+
+    ---- Wymond, 518.
+
+    ---- Wynn, 280–1, 335, 351–2, 369, 481, 540.
+
+    Chalk Alps (Munich), 113.
+
+    Christian IV. Island, 171.
+
+    Christmas, 124–126, 382, 387–390.
+      Trees, 125, 387–389.
+
+    Church Point, 488, 492–3.
+
+    Clavering, Captain, 278, 282–3, 363, 370, 379, 428–9, 513, 515–16,
+        524, 526, 546.
+      Island, 351, 354, 357, 361, 363, 490, 520, 546, 557.
+      Straits, 313, 315, 376, 380, 451, 463, 492, 503, 506, 540.
+
+    Copenhagen, 183, 262–3.
+
+    Copenhagen, Archæological Society of, 227.
+
+    Corona, 92.
+
+    Csardas (Hungarian Dance), 227.
+
+    Cyclopian Walls, 236.
+
+
+    Damp, Effects of, 338.
+
+    Dan Island, 138–9.
+
+    Danes, 199–201, 209–10, 222, 224, 228, 239, 249–50, 252.
+
+    Davis’ Sound, 432, 543.
+      Straits, 64–5, 469, 543.
+
+    Devil’s Cape, 432–3, 439, 441.
+      Castle, the, 552, 554, 563.
+      Thumb, the, 95, 101.
+
+    Doggerbank, the, 262.
+
+    Dolphins, 42–44.
+
+    Domberg, the, 317–18.
+
+    Dove Bay, 433, 439.
+
+    Dredging, with nets, 32, 53, 87, 90, 93, 350–1, 545.
+
+    Drontheim, 38.
+
+    Dufferin, Lord, 56.
+
+
+    East Cape, 542.
+
+    East Greenland, open coast water does not exist, 574;
+      not a proper basis for reaching the North Pole, _ib._
+
+    East Island, 433.
+
+    Easter, 143.
+
+    Egede, Hans, 202.
+
+    Egede’s Land, 123.
+
+    Eiger, the (Switzerland), 361.
+
+    Eleanor Bay, 558, 563.
+
+    Emperor Francis Joseph’s Fjord, 474, 550, 561–3.
+
+    Erick Island, 236.
+      Fjord, 236.
+      Rauda, 228, 235.
+
+    Erzgebirge, the, and Harz, 178.
+
+    Esquimaux (huts, graves, implements, manners and customs, remains),
+        174, 178–225, 287, 291, 307, 347, 353, 363, 379, 431, 487, 508,
+        528;
+      descriptions of plates, 581–583.
+
+    ---- Krätze, what, 185.
+
+    Eutin, 59.
+
+    Expedition, Plan of, 1–24;
+      fitting out, crews, &c., 24–27.
+
+    Expeditions, American, 578.
+      Austrian, 576–7.
+      English, 515.
+      German, 578.
+      Swedish, 578.
+
+
+    Falschen Bay, 323, 463.
+
+    Faröe Island, 572.
+
+    Fata Morgana, 416, 434.
+
+    Fauna, 484, 558, 578.
+
+    Fire on board the Germania, 398.
+
+    Fishermen, Dutch, 33–35, 262.
+      Moravian, 262.
+      Norwegian, 575.
+
+    Fishes, 192, 242.
+
+    Fiskernäss, 260.
+
+    Flache Bay, 305, 351–2, 367, 402, 518, 540.
+
+    Fligely Fjord, 316, 318, 320, 363, 450, 452, 455, 459, 462, 503.
+      Sound, 456.
+
+    Flower-basket, the, 86–87.
+
+    Fogs, 49, 57–8, 69, 99, 275, 281, 566–570.
+
+    Fossils, 504.
+
+    Foxes, 99, 124, 137, 290, 349, 442, 472–474.
+
+    Franco-German War, 240;
+      tidings of, 264, 573.
+
+    Franklin Peninsula, 548.
+
+    Fredericia (Schleswig), 264.
+
+    Frederickshaab, 247, 256–258.
+
+    Freeden Bay, 288, 293.
+
+    Friedrichsthal, 142, 165, 169, 172, 175–6, 181–204, 207, 211,
+        215–16, 227.
+
+    Frost-bites, 112, 117, 418.
+
+
+    Gael Hamkes Bay, 280, 299, 306–7, 310, 342–3, 354–356, 517, 520,
+        543.
+
+    Gammelgard, 229.
+
+    Geology, 167, 215, 289, 294, 306, 315–317, 355, 358, 361, 366,
+        428–9, 431–2, 435, 444, 461, 495, 535.
+
+    Germania, the, winters, 333–339.
+
+    Germania Bay, 334.
+      Harbour, 325, 334.
+
+    Germaniaberg, the, 325, 343, 388, 395, 400, 491, 523, 529, 539.
+
+    Glaciers, 133, 138, 140, 144, 215, 247, 255, 260, 265, 363–366,
+        378, 434, 488–9, 539.
+
+    Glasgow Island, 113.
+
+    Gnadau (Magdeburg), 180.
+
+    Gnats, 241–2, 247.
+
+    Good Friday, 437, 491.
+
+    Greenland, Life in, 179–182, 223, 225–227.
+      Music, &c., 190, 225–227.
+      Work, 190, 225.
+      Worship, 212, 239.
+
+    Grinnell Land, 578.
+
+    Griper Roads, 277.
+
+    Grossglockner, 365.
+
+    Gulf Stream, the, 38, 51, 65.
+
+
+    Halloway Bay, 113.
+
+    Hamburg, 264.
+
+    Hansa, Voyage of, 80–115.
+      Return of Crew, 116–261.
+
+    Hansa Bay, 343.
+      Haven, 164.
+
+    Harefield, the, 221, 226, 241.
+
+    Hares, 483, 525.
+
+    Härjulfsnäs, 196, 227.
+
+    Harpoons, 193.
+
+    Hasenberg, the, 325–327, 345, 400–1, 404, 426, 492.
+
+    Hayes, 474, 578.
+
+    Haystack, Mount, 495.
+      Peninsula, 428–9, 442.
+
+    Hefersteinberg, the, 492–494.
+
+    Heligoland, 572.
+
+    Helsingör, 262.
+
+    Herring Fishery, 215.
+
+    Herrnhuter Fraternity, 175–6, 226.
+
+    Hochstetter’s Promontory, 319, 426–428, 461.
+
+    Hollanderöe, 246.
+
+    Horrors, Bay of, 129.
+
+    Hühnerberg, the, 487–8, 492–3.
+
+    Hull, 153.
+
+
+    Ice sky, 63.
+      Blink, 63.
+      Foot, 487.
+
+    Icebergs, 123, 130, 132, 138–9, 143, 146, 151, 431, 434, 547, 561,
+        563.
+
+    Iceland, 65, 135–6, 572.
+
+    Igalliko, 228–238, 251.
+      Fjord (Eimar), 228, 235, 238–9.
+
+    Igalorsoeitsiak, 181.
+
+    Igdlopait, 182, 205–6, 211, 215–217.
+
+    Igikait, 196–7, 227.
+
+    Illuidlek, 155–157, 162, 164, 173.
+
+    Isersarnak, the, 211, 216.
+
+    Island of the World, 219.
+
+    Ivikät, 210–11, 249.
+
+    Ivimiut, 163–4.
+
+
+    Jackson Island, 540.
+
+    Jan Mayen, 52, 54–56, 73.
+
+    Jordan Hill, 362.
+      Island, 523.
+
+    Julianeshaab, 150, 182, 209, 216–7, 219, 241–245, 251–254.
+
+    Jvigtuk, 197.
+
+
+    Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord. _See_ Emperor Francis Joseph’s Fjord.
+
+    Kajaks, 193–195, 200, 216, 248–9, 259–60.
+
+    Kajalik, 195.
+
+    Kakorlok Fjord, 228–9.
+
+    Kaksiarsuk, 229, 259.
+
+    Kaksimiut, 247–249, 251, 253–4.
+
+    Kamiken, 181, 263.
+
+    Kane, 102, 333, 474, 578.
+
+    Kangerdleck Fjord, 165.
+
+    Kangerdlurksoeitsiak, 166.
+
+    Kaningesekasik, 166, 168.
+
+    Karisch Straits, 575.
+
+    Karsok Island, 218.
+
+    Kattegat, 262.
+
+    Kikertarsoeitsiak Island, 198.
+
+    King Charles’s Land, 576–7.
+
+    King William visits the Expedition, 24–5.
+
+    King William’s Land, 440.
+
+    Kingitok Island, 246.
+
+    Klentzer, his adventure with a bear, 395–397.
+
+    Koldewey Island, 429, 432–3.
+
+    Königin Augusta Thal. _See_ Queen Augusta Valley.
+
+    Königsbach, 175.
+
+    Kronenberg, the, 314, 451, 488, 492, 495.
+
+    Kryolite, 182, 202, 211, 249, 256, 258.
+
+    Kuhn Island, 312, 429, 450, 456, 459–461, 475–6, 486, 496, 502.
+
+
+    Lemmings, 347–8, 484.
+
+    Lichtenau, 182, 199, 203–219, 223.
+      Fjord, 166, 208.
+
+    Lichtenfels, 208, 223, 248.
+
+    Lindenau Fjord, 166.
+
+    Liverpool Coast, 105, 116, 120.
+
+    Loch Fine, 546.
+
+
+    Mackenzie Bay, 550.
+      Inlet, 544–546.
+      Peninsula, 552.
+
+    Malenefjeld, 256.
+
+    Matterhorn, the, 459.
+
+    McClintock, 102.
+
+    Missions and Missionaries, 175–6, 179, 184, 205–208, 217, 224, 239.
+
+    Mogul Race, 353.
+
+    Moravian Society, 183, 193.
+
+    Mosquitos, 544.
+
+    Mossel Bay, 577.
+
+    Murray Island, 105.
+
+    Musk-Oxen, 322, 325–329, 427–8, 455–457, 461, 474–477, 497–8, 503,
+        544.
+
+
+    Napersorsoak, 198 n.
+
+    Narksamiut Fjord, 175, 192, 196.
+
+    Narwhals, 81, 106, 267, 272, 485.
+
+    Natzek, 208.
+
+    Navigation, school of, 381.
+
+    Nennortalik, 182, 197, 203, 210, 220, 251.
+
+    Neptune, visit of, 46–48.
+
+    Newspaper, the East Greenland, 378–380.
+
+    New Year, 39, 126.
+
+    New Year’s Island, 128.
+
+    Nordkapers, 38. _See_ Dolphins.
+
+    Nordmeer, 37.
+
+    Norse buildings, 227, 231, 237.
+
+    Norse traditions, 184.
+
+    Norsemen, 176, 185, 196, 202–211, 212, 229.
+
+    North Cape, 64.
+
+    North Pole, 82, 309, 571–2, 575, 577–579.
+
+    North Sea, 37, 564.
+
+    Norway, 277.
+
+    Nova Zembla, 61, 65, 309–10, 575–6.
+
+    Nukarbik Bay, 142–3.
+      Island, 142.
+
+
+    Okusiksak, 215.
+
+    Olsen, 232.
+
+    Omarsuk Island, 219.
+
+    Omienarsuk Island, 163, 165.
+
+    Ornithology, 38, 41, 49–50, 63, 70, 73, 76, 82, 87, 93, 105, 137,
+        143–4, 275, 278–9, 347, 392, 484, 493, 505, 518–9, 525, 541–2,
+        544.
+
+    Ost (East) Pröven, 182.
+
+    Owak, 231.
+
+
+    Pamiadluk, 175.
+
+    Paraselene, 380.
+
+    Pardleet Island, 217, 245–6.
+
+    Parhelia, 92–3, 402, 417, 433.
+
+    Parry, Captain, 339.
+      Island, 577.
+
+    Passion Week observed, 435.
+
+    Pasterze, 365.
+
+    Pendulum Island, 83, 86, 88, 91, 278–9, 298, 301, 303–4, 306–7,
+        318, 326, 331, 334, 376, 402–3, 459, 486–488, 492–3, 496,
+        515, 529–30.
+      Straits, 496.
+
+    Peru Harbour, 246.
+
+    Peschel Island, 442.
+
+    Petermann Point, 561.
+
+    Pfingstkap Fjord, 165.
+
+    Polaris, the Voyage of the, 578.
+
+    Polynje, 575.
+
+    Prince Christian Sound, 168, 170, 184.
+
+    Provision holes, 514, 516;
+      Magazines, 525.
+
+    Pytheas, Sea-lungs of, 57.
+
+
+    Queen Augusta Valley, 305–6.
+
+
+    Ramsgate, 153.
+
+    Refraction, Effects of, 84, 139, 273–4, 294, 416.
+
+    Redekam, 229.
+
+    Reindeer, 280, 348, 476–478, 527, 544.
+
+    Rensselaer Harbour, 333.
+
+    Reynold’s Island, 105.
+
+    Rorquals, 44.
+
+    Roon Bay, 431, 433.
+
+    Ross, Captain, 338.
+
+    Ruthner, Mount, 499.
+
+
+    Sabine, 278–9, 515.
+      Island, 76, 84, 88, 91, 276, 279–80, 283, 302, 305, 308, 319,
+          321, 324–5, 426–7, 429, 448, 451, 491–2, 516, 529, 556.
+
+    Sattelberg, the, 305–6, 400, 459.
+      Peninsula, 358.
+
+    Schleswig and Holstein, 240.
+
+    Scoresby’s Sound, 116, 123, 432, 543.
+
+    Scurvy, 143.
+
+    Seals, 61–2, 70, 81, 85, 93, 144, 261, 268, 482–3.
+
+    Sedan, Battle of, 264.
+
+    Sedlevik Island, 171–173, 185.
+
+    Sermesok, 205.
+
+    Shannon Island, 86, 279, 282–289, 298–300, 308, 318–19, 334, 342,
+        376, 427–8, 459, 475, 531, 533, 564.
+      Straits, 496.
+
+    Shetland Islands, 262, 277, 572.
+
+    Siberia, 576.
+
+    Sinai, 100, 124.
+
+    Skagen, 262.
+
+    Skating, 92, 100–1.
+
+    Sledge-journeys, 155–162, 314–323, 394, 409, 464;
+      objects and results of, 412–432.
+
+    Sleeping-sack, 354, 419–421.
+
+    Sleeping under Tents, 419–422.
+
+    Smith’s Sound, 578–9.
+      Straits, 432.
+
+    Snow Blindness, 81, 150, 158, 457–8, 460, 492–3.
+
+    Snow Sphinx, 119.
+      Storms, 130–133, 371–376, 383–387, 403.
+
+    Spitzbergen, 61, 65, 82, 309, 577.
+
+    St. Silvester, 126, 390.
+
+    Storefjeld Mount, 221, 241.
+
+    Storm Bay, 435.
+
+    Storö, 219, 241.
+
+    Stufenberg, the, 295–6, 487, 493, 515.
+
+    Süd (South) Pröven, 182, 218, 220.
+
+    Sun, Midnight, 49;
+      reappearance of the, 400–402.
+
+
+    Tafelberg, the, 488.
+
+    Tellplatte, the, 487, 496–7, 530.
+      Islands, 291–293.
+
+    Temperatures. _See_ Table, p. 448.
+
+    Tents, 313, 419;
+      life in, 419–425.
+
+    Tent-rings, 513–4.
+
+    Tessermiut Fjord, 198 n., 205.
+
+    Teufelschloss. _See_ Devil’s Castle.
+
+    Texel, 102.
+
+    Tirol Fjord, 361–363, 367, 480.
+
+    Tnarsoit Island, 256.
+
+    Tornik, 188.
+
+    Torsukatek, Straits, 174, 256.
+
+
+    Umiaks, 193–195, 200, 248.
+
+    Unartok Fjord, 211.
+      Island, 211–12, 214.
+
+
+    Veegsteen, 214.
+
+    Vienna, Academy of Science, 575.
+
+
+    Walrus, the, 120–1, 280, 291, 357, 368–9, 478, 480–482, 487.
+
+    Walrus Island, 278, 305, 333, 341–344, 348, 376, 380, 402, 517.
+
+    Wangerooge, 572–3.
+
+    Weser River, 390, 571–573.
+
+    Whalers, 83–4, 266–7, 273.
+
+    Whales, 257, 485.
+
+    Wildspitze, the, 459.
+
+    Winter-house, Erection of, &c., 102–104, 111–114, 134–5.
+
+    Winter-quarters of the Germania, 334.
+
+    Wolves, 483–4.
+
+
+    Zoology, 32, 93, 271, 275, 347, 399.
+
+
+GILBERT & RIVINGTON, Printers, St. John’s Square, and 28,
+Whitefriars Street, E.C.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] The contributions arising out of this appeal were to be forwarded
+to Dr. Petermann, or to the Accountant of the Expedition, Mr. G.
+Albrecht, in Bremen.
+
+[2] The list of subscriptions is published in the _Geographische
+Mittheilungen_ by Dr. Petermann.
+
+[3] A day is the period between the sun’s departure from and return to
+the same meridian. It is calculated from twelve noon to the next twelve
+noon.
+
+[4] By Dr. Pansch and Capt. Koldewey.
+
+[5] From the 10th of July to the 1st of August we registered 368 hours
+of fog, being seven-tenths of the whole time.
+
+[6] Alca torda, L.
+
+[7] Uria Brünnichii, Sab.; Uria grylle, L.; Mormon fratercula, Temm.;
+and Mergulus alle, Viell.
+
+[8] A glance at the surface is not sufficient to decide the real
+colour of the water, as it is affected by the reflected colour of the
+heavens. The influence of the latter must therefore be excluded; and we
+therefore examined the water through a tube. A convenient arrangement
+for the purpose offered itself in the opening for hauling in the screw.
+
+[9] It is said that ships are sometimes half in blue and half in green
+water.
+
+[10] By comparison of the direct astronomical observations of position
+with the partially indirect results obtained by the reckoning of the
+log.
+
+[11] Lord Dufferin and Karl Vogt were fortunate enough to catch a
+glimpse of the wonderful snowy peak of the Beerenberg, rising isolated
+to a height of 6863 feet. “My delight was that of an anchorite catching
+a glimpse of the seventh heaven.” (Lord Dufferin, “Letters from High
+Latitudes,” p. 139, 5th Ed.)
+
+[12] Scoresby, “Account of the Arctic Regions,” i. 168. Also
+Churchill’s “Collection of Voyages and Travels,” ii. 367–378.
+
+[13] We signalled--“Come within hail.” The Hansa understood--“Long stay
+a-peak.”
+
+[14] This was confirmed later by the return voyage, through this water,
+of the Germania on the 27th.
+
+[15] On Sabine Island, at this time, there was fair weather; the storm
+was therefore more of a local nature, whilst generally the Northern
+storms rage the whole length of the coast.
+
+[16] By Captain Hegemann.
+
+[17] In reckoning by miles, nautical miles must be understood, four of
+which go to one German mile.
+
+[18] It must not be forgotten that Graah’s chronometer at that time had
+become useless. (Graah, Narrative, &c., English Translation, p. 65.)
+
+[19] By Captain Hegemann, with the assistance of Professor Laube and W.
+Bade.
+
+[20] Graah’s map gives Lat. 60° 52′ for Cape Discord. Our own
+measurement determined it as 61° 0′.
+
+[21] “Another family, consisting of six individuals, was established
+on a point of land at Illuidlek, opposite Ivimiut.” Graah’s “Voyage to
+Greenland,” p. 70.
+
+[22] Is not this coppery colour due to the lichen which overlies the
+granite, similar to the violet-coloured _Byssus iolithes_ of the
+Brocken?
+
+[23] This is the nautical term for the summons to dinner (eight bells),
+and is still kept up at the seamen’s anniversary festivals in Bremen.
+
+[24] In a particularly interesting letter from the missionaries,
+received by our Society on the 4th of Nov., 1871, and written by A.
+Gericke, Friedrichsthal, 22nd August, it is said,--“A short time since
+a great number of the heathenish inhabitants of the east coast of
+Greenland came to us to barter, as they are in the habit of doing in
+some years. They said that they had seen the crew of the Hansa on the
+ice-floe, but from terror at such an appearance on their desert shore
+they had not ventured to go to them.”
+
+[25] See the detailed account of East Greenland by Graah. “Voyage to
+Greenland,” p. 114.
+
+[26] By Professor Laube.
+
+[27] “Tornik” is the plural of “Tunek,” originally the Esquimaux
+name for the North American Indians a word, therefore, which the
+Greenlanders have brought with them from North America. They apply it
+now to fabulous creatures, who are supposed to dwell in the interior,
+far from the coast. They are twice the size of men, though of human
+form; and they are supposed to be generally hostile, though capable at
+times of rendering good service. (Rink.)
+
+[28] “Blanding” signifies a _half-breed_, and is the term commonly
+used by the Danes all over Greenland.
+
+[29] The height of this mountain was stated to us to be 12,000 feet,
+which is considerably above the mark. The highest yet ascertained is
+on the north-west coast, from 6000 to 7000 feet. The highest peak
+(over 10,000 feet in height) was discovered by the Germania. In
+Southern Greenland they reach scarcely 4000 feet. In the interior,
+near the Tessermiut Fjord, is a mountain, to which they give the name
+Napersorsoak. This has now been ascended by Europeans, and according to
+Dr. Rink’s statement, is at the most 4000 feet high.
+
+[30] A mineral peculiar to this locality, produced from soda, a kind
+of clay much used in dying, from which Aluminium [? Alumina.--Tr.] and
+other products may be extracted.
+
+[31] By Professor Laube.
+
+[32] _Betula nana_, L.
+
+[33] _Salix herbacea_, _reticulata_, _arbuscula_.
+
+[34] The chief place to which Kryolite is exported is Philadelphia,
+though some cargoes go to Hamburg, where the material is further
+prepared.
+
+[35] By Professor Laube.
+
+[36] It is a matter of great satisfaction to us that in news received
+from Greenland from the Inspector-General of the Danish Colony, Herr
+Rink, contained in a letter to Professor Laube, he expresses his regret
+that such a person should have been in office at the time.
+
+[37] By Professor Laube.
+
+[38] _Mytilus edulis_, L. The Greenland name for this mollusk is
+_Nilock_.
+
+[39] A kind of wrapper made of European materials, which is drawn over
+the fur dress.
+
+[40] Kamiken appears to be a Polish word for some description of fur.
+(Tr.)
+
+[41] A glance at the chart will show that the Hansa, on her first
+advance on the 22nd of July, was nearly on the same spot, but was
+ice-blocked, and drifted to the south.
+
+[42] According to our later observations the harbour time on this spot
+was 12h. 0m., consequently high water on this day was at 6h. 41m.; the
+current noticed must therefore be ascribed to some local influence,
+especially as the tidal wave ran to the north.--_Koldewey._
+
+[43] The question has been raised several times, especially inland,
+as to why, being unable to advance along the land ice, I did not
+re-enter the pack and work my way through it northwards, and, in a
+higher latitude, again try to reach the coast. This is opposed to all
+experience: it has long been known that in a stream of heavy ice, in
+fact in the so-called pack, never, nor at any place, with the strongest
+and best steamer, has any considerable progress been made without the
+coast as a support. Had I wished to have reached the coast at a more
+northerly point, I should have had to penetrate the ice-barrier, again
+to steer along the northern border, and force my way into the pack
+once more in 78°. Such a proceeding would certainly never have been
+followed by the desired result, and it would have been unjustifiable
+to give up a basis, reached with so much trouble, to follow a
+phantom.--_Koldewey._
+
+[44] About 940 English feet. (Tr.)
+
+[45] The same appearance was also noticed by some of the Hansa men at
+the beginning of November.
+
+[46] By Captain Koldewey.
+
+[47] I. e. Queen Augusta Valley. (Tr.)
+
+[48] By Captain Koldewey and Lieutenant Payer.
+
+[49] This Fjord had for the most part been free from ice in the summer.
+The heat in the two summer months is here so great that it will melt
+ice of seven feet thickness, which is not possible in the outer coast
+in these latitudes. The ice outside the Fjord remained firm all the
+summer.
+
+[50] This fuel had to be sought under fresh fallen snow, whereby I had
+a finger frost-bitten.
+
+[51] By Dr. Pansch.
+
+[52] I. e. Tide-hole. (Tr.)
+
+[53] _Myodes torquatus_, Pall. “It can only be classed as a very
+rare and local (possibly accidental) member of the Fauna of Greenland,
+as it has never since being found in the country.”--_Proceedings of
+Zoological Society of London_, 1868, p. 349.
+
+[54] By Dr. Pansch.
+
+[55] Beaufort scale of 0–12. Nine would indicate a rate of fifty-six
+miles per hour.
+
+[56] By these must be understood German _geographical_ miles, each
+of which is equal to one-fifteenth of a degree.--Tr.
+
+[57] December 31, Festival of Silvester, Bishop of Rome.
+
+[58] By Dr. Pansch.
+
+[59] From the slight effects produced by the bite of the animal, it
+would appear that it was not full grown.
+
+[60] This fur glove had so successfully resisted the gnawing of the
+bear, that Börgen had some difficulty in finding where the incisors of
+the brute had penetrated, and was able to wear it again without its
+being mended. “The furrier, Jahns, is still living in Bremen,” writes
+Dr. Copeland.
+
+[61] Similarly Livingstone, who, on being torn by a lion, tells us
+“There was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror. It was like what
+patients partly under the influence of chloroform describe, who see all
+the operation, but feel not the knife.”--Missionary Travels, S. Afr.,
+p. 12.
+
+[62] After Dr. Börgen had been for some time under Dr. Pansch’s hands,
+he remembered that he had the pocket-chronometer (one of Felsing’s, of
+Bremen) with him; so, as it had not come on board, Dr. Copeland and a
+guard went in search of it, and found it fast frozen to the surface of
+the ice. It had gone on for some time after its fall, but had stopped
+at last, owing to the intensity of the cold. After warming it in the
+hand, it went on again for some seconds.
+
+[63] Börgen’s wounds healed and cicatrized rapidly. His youth and
+vigorous constitution enabled him to throw off all the evil effects of
+the bear’s seizure.
+
+[64] By Lieut. Payer.
+
+[65] Snow spectacles, on account of their fragility and metal
+mountings, are particularly undesirable, as in intense cold they
+burn the skin. Spectacles of india-rubber we found the best,
+completely enclosing the eye, which is protected by very fine wire
+gauze.--_Börgen._
+
+[66] From loading and unloading the sacks, the hard bread carried with
+us falls by degrees into dust.
+
+[67] i. e. Secondary. (_Tr._)
+
+[68] _Bessemer-fluth_ in the original. (_Tr._)
+
+[69] Ellinger, with his aspirations and intelligence, might have become
+a great support to the German Arctic Expedition, but he unfortunately
+died shortly after its return. In December, 1870, he left Rotterdam
+on a Dutch ship for Savannah, and after eleven days’ fever, in the
+hospital of that place, he died on the 26th February, 1871. Besides
+Payer every one connected with the Expedition gave him the most
+excellent character. In the official report of the Committee for the
+North German Expedition, in Bremen, on the 15th of July, 1871, it runs
+thus:--“Captain Koldewey and Dr. Copeland made honourable mention of
+Peter Ellinger, sailor on board the Germania during the second German
+Expedition, and who is lately dead. The death of this young man--he was
+only twenty-four--is still more to be deplored, as his whole conduct
+during that time led us to suppose that he would eventually prove
+an ornament to the German navy, not only from his cleverness in all
+seaman’s work, but also for his great interest in all nautical science.
+He thirsted for knowledge, and was very successful in meteorological
+and magnetic observations, and also took part in surveying; and being
+employed in all great undertakings, deserves the utmost thanks at the
+hands of the Expedition.”
+
+[70] In the interior they cannot exist, as the icing of the straits,
+and the consequent departure of their only means of support, the walrus
+and the seal, compels them to live on the coast.
+
+[72] By Lieut. Payer.
+
+[73] “Aussingen” is a seaman’s term for a peculiar rhythm, in time to
+which the men pull.
+
+[74] A cloudy atmosphere greatly favours this disease of the eyes, as
+objects disappear, which serve as a resting-point or change.
+
+[75] By Lieut. Payer and Dr. Copeland.
+
+[76] In Greenland language, _Nennok_.
+
+[77] The most northerly point at which a bear has been met with is 81°
+30′ N. Lat. It was killed by some of Parry’s men on the pack-ice.
+
+[78] It will be interesting to notice that the bear killed on the
+7th of July, after having a ball ¹⁄₁₆ lb. through both lungs and the
+thickest part of the heart, ran forward with powerful leaps for at
+least sixty yards before it fell dead.
+
+[79] Scoresby reports that once on the coast of Greenland he saw 100
+bears, of which at least twenty might have been killed.
+
+[80] In Greenlandish, _Terienniak_ and _Kakaka_.
+
+[81] Between which there are varieties or cross-breeds.
+
+[82] In Greenland language, _Umingmak_.
+
+[83] The wool of a musk-ox would fill a moderate-sized
+pillow.--_Tramnitz._
+
+[84] The flesh of one of these animals not too old was quite free from
+this taste, and could not be distinguished from our European beef;
+and the milk, which I also tasted, was similar to the best European
+cow-milk.--_Tramnitz._
+
+[85] In the beginning of August, 1870, on the top of Cape Franklin,
+Copeland observed traces of musk-oxen in the snow at a height of 4875
+feet above the level of the sea, and on the 15th of September Copeland
+and Wagner saw bear-tracks on the back of the Hasenberg, 1950 feet high.
+
+[86] By Dr. Copeland and Dr. C. Börgen.
+
+[87] By Dr. Pansch.
+
+[88] By Captain Koldewey.
+
+[89] By Captain Koldewey, Dr. Pansch, and First-Lieutenant Payer.
+
+[90] By Captain Koldewey, First-Lieutenant Payer, and Dr. Pansch.
+
+[91] And yet on the southern side of a block of rock we found melted
+ice-water.
+
+[92] By Captain Carl Koldewey.
+
+[93] It consists of one or more unimportant islands of no great size.
+
+[94] (?) Hocky, or bandy-stick. (_Tr._)
+
+[95] This conjecture is supported by the fact, that in Ocean I., one
+of the Kingsmill group in the South Pacific Ocean, a similar custom
+prevails. Human teeth, thus bored, are used by the native women as
+necklaces. (_Tr._)
+
+[96] See Parry’s Journal, p. 286.
+
+
+Transcriber’s Notes:
+
+1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been
+corrected silently.
+
+2. Where hyphenation is in doubt, it has been retained as in the
+original.
+
+3. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have
+been retained as in the original.
+
+4. Italics are shown as _xxx_.
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79056 ***
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79056 ***</div>
+
+  
+<div class="figcenter" id="frontispiece" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/frontispiece.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ARRIVAL OF THE “HANSA’S” BOATS AT THE FRIEDRICHSTHAL
+MISSION STATION.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h1 class="p2"><span class="xs">THE</span><br>
+
+GERMAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br>
+
+<span class="sm">OF 1869–70,</span><br>
+
+<span class="xs">AND</span><br>
+
+<span class="lg">NARRATIVE OF THE WRECK OF THE “HANSA”<br>
+IN THE ICE.</span></h1></div>
+
+<p class="center p2"><span class="smcap">By</span> CAPTAIN KOLDEWEY,</p>
+
+<p class="center xs">COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION, ASSISTED BY MEMBERS OF THE SCIENTIFIC STAFF.</p>
+
+<p class="center xs p1">WITH</p>
+
+<p class="center xs p1"><i>NUMEROUS WOODCUTS, TWO COLOURED MAPS, TWO PORTRAITS ON STEEL,<br>
+AND FOUR CHROMO LITHOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="center xs p2">TRANSLATED AND ABRIDGED BY THE REV. L. MERCIER, M.A., OXON;
+AND EDITED BY H. W. BATES, F.L.S., ASSISTANT SECRETARY,
+ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.</p>
+
+<p class="center sm p2"><b>London:</b><br>
+SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON LOW; &amp; SEARLE,<br>
+<span class="xs">CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.<br>
+1874.</span></p>
+
+<p class="center xs">[<i>All rights reserved.</i>]</p>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="center p6 xs">LONDON:<br>
+GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,<br>
+ST. JOHN’S SQUARE.</p></div>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class="smaller" style="max-width: 40em">
+  <tr>
+    <th></th>
+    <th class="pag">PAGE</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht">Introduction.—Preliminary Observations.—Object and Plan of
+the Expedition.—Victualling of the Ships.—Compact between
+the Captains.—Instructions for the Second German Arctic
+Expedition of 1869, 1870. By Dr. A. Petermann</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header" colspan="2">PART I.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header1" colspan="2">JOINT PASSAGE OF THE TWO SHIPS, AND VOYAGE<br>
+OF THE HANSA.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span>—Joint Voyage of the Germania and the Hansa, from
+the 15th June to 4th July. By Captain Koldewey and Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span>—Further passage of the two Ships to the Ice.—Middle
+of July. By Captain Koldewey and Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span>—To the Separation of the Ships on the 20th July.
+By Captain Koldewey and Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span>—Further Voyage of the Hansa up to her Blockade
+in the Coast-ice of East Greenland. 20th July to 7th September.
+By Captain Hegemann</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter V.</span>—From the blocking up of the Hansa to the Settlement
+upon the Floe. 7th September to end of October. By Captain
+Hegemann, Professor Laube, and others</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter VI.</span>—Drifting to the South.—Christmas time.—A severe
+January. November, 1869, to end of January, 1870. By
+Captain Hegemann</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter VII.</span>—Post nubila Phœbus. Abandonment of the Floe,
+and Boat-Journey to the Island of Illuidlek. February to
+4th June, 1870. By Captain Hegemann</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_137">137</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII.</span>—Journey along the Coast of Greenland, from
+Illuidlek to Friedrichsthal. June, 1870. By Captain Hegemann,
+with the assistance of Professor Laube and W. Bade</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter IX.</span>—Further Stay in Friedrichsthal.—Journey <i>viâ</i>
+Igikait to Nennortalik. By Professor Laube</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_187">187</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter X.</span>—Lichtenau.—Excursion to the Island of Unartok.—Journey
+to Julianeshaab. By Professor Laube</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_205">205</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XI.</span>—In Julianeshaab.—Excursion to Igalliko. By
+Professor Laube</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_220">220</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XII.</span>—Kaksimiut.—Frederickshaab.—Return to
+Europe. By Professor Laube</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_244">244</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header" colspan="2">PART II.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header1" colspan="2">VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span>—Continuation of the Voyage of the Germania after
+Separation from the Hansa.—Landing of the Germania in
+East Greenland. From 21st July to 5th August, 1869. By
+Captain Koldewey and Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_265">265</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span>—Pendulum Island.—State of the Ice Northwards.—Landing
+on Shannon Island. By the same</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_278">278</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span>—Shannon Island: with the Tell-Platte and Klein-Pendulum.
+By Dr. Copeland, First-Lieutenant Payer, and
+Dr. Börgen</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_288">288</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span>—Further Coasting Voyage of the Germania. 17th
+August to 13th September, 1869. By Captain Koldewey</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_297">297</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter V.</span>—Sledge-Journey to the Fligely Fjord.—Discovery
+of Coal strata on Kuhn Island. 14th to 21st September,
+1869. By Captain Koldewey and Lieutenant Payer</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_312">312</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter VI.</span>—Preparations for Wintering. 13th September to
+7th November, 1869. By Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_324">324</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter VII.</span>—Sledge-Journey to Clavering Island, and Discovery
+of the Tirol Fjord. 27th October to 4th November, 1869. By First-Lieutenant Payer,
+ with additions by Captain Koldewey</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_353">353</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII.</span>—Winter Night from November, 1869, to New
+Year’s Day, 1870. By Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_371">371</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter IX.</span>—First Month of the year 1870. By Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_391">391</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter X.</span>—Long Sledge-Journey on the Coast Northwards.—Discovery
+of King William’s Island. 8th March to 27th April, 1870. By Lieutenant Payer
+ and Captain Koldewey</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_412">412</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XI.</span>—Sledge-Journey to Ardencaple Inlet, from 8th
+May to 29th May. By Lieutenant Payer</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_449">449</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XII.</span>—Hunting and Animal Life in East Greenland.
+By Lieutenant Payer and Dr. Copeland, with additions by
+Dr. Hartlaub</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_465">465</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XIII.</span>—Sledge-Journeys in Spring. April to July,
+1870. By Dr. Börgen and Dr. Copeland</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_486">486</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XIV.</span>—Excursions to Sabine and Clavering Islands, to
+examine remains of Esquimaux Settlements. By Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_507">507</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XV.</span>—The Germania steams Northwards. 22nd to 31st
+July. By Captain Koldewey</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_529">529</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XVI.</span>—Coast Voyage of the Germania towards South.
+Jackson Island.—Cape Broer Ruys.—Boat-Journey.—Discovery
+of Francis-Joseph’s Fjord. By Captain Koldewey</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_539">539</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XVII.</span>—Sailing into the Fjord.—Ascent of Payer’s
+Peak.—Discovery of Petermann’s Peak.—Homeward Voyage decided on.
+ By Captain Koldewey, Lieutenant Payer, and Dr. Pansch</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_551">551</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht"><span class="smcap">Chapter XVIII.</span>—Return to Bremerhaven. By Captain Koldewey</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_565">565</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht">Conclusion. By Captain Koldewey</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_574">574</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+   <td class="cht">Appendix</td>
+   <td class="pag"><a href="#Page_581">581</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="sm">DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class="smaller" style="max-width: 40em">
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header1" colspan="2">HALF-PAGE WOODCUTS</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th></th>
+    <th class="pag">PAGE</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Killer Dolphins</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0430_ill">43</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Blocks of ice with seals.</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0802_ill">81</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Cape Broer Ruys</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0820_ill">82</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Cape James</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0830_ill">83</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Flower-Basket</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0860_ill">86</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Devil’s Thumb</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0950_ill">95</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Brandenburg Gate</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0960_ill">96</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Hunting the Polar Bear</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0970_ill">97</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Polar Bear as a Watch-dog</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0980_ill">98</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Ice-formations</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0990_ill">99</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Skating on “Sinai”</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1000_ill">100</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Snow-Sphinx</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1190_ill">119</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Iceberg with Refraction, by Capo Löwenörn</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1390_ill">139</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Iceberg</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1460_ill">146</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Hunting the Polar Bear</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1470_ill">147</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The boat Bismarck</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1490_ill">149</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Iceberg</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1510_ill">151</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Look-out</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1540_ill">154</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Sketch of Hansa Haven</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1650_map">165</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Group of Esquimaux</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1770_ill">177</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Ruins of Erick Rauda’s House</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p2350_ill">235</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Ice-drift Formations</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p2680_ill">268</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">First Sight of Land</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p2720_ill">272</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Tent for Sledge-journeying</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3130_ill">313</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Arctic Fox at a trap</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3520_ill">352</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Tent-quarters</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3600_ill">360</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Young Walrus</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3690_ill">369</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Surprised by a Bear</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p4300_ill">430</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Depôt on Kuhn Island</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p4600_ill">460</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Hühnerberg Glacier</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p4890_ill">489</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Kronenberg</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p4900_ill">490</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Block of Basalt</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p4970_ill">497</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Fossil from Kuhn Island</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5040_ill">504</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Ruined Esquimaux Huts, &amp;c.</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5080_ill">508</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Longitudinal section of Esquimaux Hut</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5090_ill">509</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Portions of Esquimaux Implements</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5170_ill">517</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Ruined Huts on Sabine Island</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5260_ill">526</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Esquimaux Box</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5420_ill">542</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Regenerated Glacier</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5530_ill">553</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">End of a Glacier</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5550_ill">555</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Lower end of the Glaciers</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5570_ill">557</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header1" colspan="2">WHOLE PAGE WOODCUTS.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th></th>
+    <th class="pag">TO FACE PAGE</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Germania</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0141_ill">14</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Hansa</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0161_ill">16</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Warping through the Ice</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0861_ill">86</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Ice formations</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1021_ill">102</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Liverpool coast</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1042_ill">105</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Hansa in distress</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1081_ill">108</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Wreck of the Hansa</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1121_ill">112</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Ground-plan of the “Hansa” house</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1141_ill">114</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Hansa House on the Floe</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1144_ill">115</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Iceberg</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1321_ill">132</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Bivouac in boats</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1324_ill">133</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Dragging the boats to Illuidlek Island</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1542_ill">155</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Coast to the South of Illuidlek</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1562_ill">157</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Boats under sail</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1641_ill">164</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Boat-Journeys with Canoes</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p1981_ill">198</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Lichtenau</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p2062_ill">207</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">In the Pack</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p2701_ill">270</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Germania in the Ice</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3302_ill">331</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Germania on Sabine Island</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3361_ill">336</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Iceberg near Cape Borlase Warren</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3561_ill">356</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">On Deck</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3721_ill">372</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Deep-snow Travelling</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p4521_ill">452</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Death of the Musk Ox</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p4561_ill">456</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Esquimaux Implements</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5161_ill">516</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">&emsp;&emsp;Do.&emsp;&emsp;&ensp;do.</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5170_ill"><i>ib.</i></a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Germania on the South Coast of Shannon</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5381_ill">538</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Mountain Peak behind the Glaciers, &amp;c.</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5541_ill">554</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Glacier of Payer’s Peak</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5601_ill">560</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header1" colspan="2">STEEL ENGRAVINGS.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Karl Koldewey, Commander of the Expedition, Captain of the
+Germania</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0102_ill">11</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Paul Friedrich August Hegemann, Captain of the Hansa</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p0342_ill">35</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header1" colspan="2">COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Arrival of Boats at Friedrichsthal</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Queen Augusta Valley</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3061_ill">306</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">Tirol Fjord</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p3622_ill">363</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht">The Devil’s Castle</td>
+     <td class="pag"><a href="#p5521_ill">552</a></td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header" colspan="2">MAPS.</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <th class="header1" colspan="2">(TO BE PLACED AT THE END.)</th>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht" colspan="2">Chart of the Northern Portion of East Greenland surveyed on the
+Sledge-Journey, from 24th March to 27th April, 1870.</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+     <td class="cht" colspan="2">Chart of the Voyage and Discoveries of the Second German Arctic
+Expedition, with the aid of previous Charts.</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[1]</span></p>
+
+<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">First suggestion of the undertaking at a festival given
+at Bremen in honour of Dr. Petermann and the First German
+Arctic Expedition.—Dr. Petermann’s plan of the 30th of
+October, 1868.—Dr. Petermann consents to the building of
+the Germania from the remaining funds of the Expedition of
+1868.—His programme of the 8th of March, 1869.—Exploration
+of the Central Arctic region with the east coast of
+Greenland as a basis.—Captain Koldewey’s circuit through
+the provinces.—Statement of the project.—Forming of
+committees in different German towns for the support of the
+undertaking.—Assistance of the Newspaper Press.—Formation
+of the Bremen Committee.—Opposition to the choice of
+the yacht Greenland as the second ship.—The Hamburg
+Committee.—Further action.—Definitive resolutions.—Appeal
+of the 10th of May.—The commander and the scientific
+staff of the expedition.—The steamer Germania.—Fitting
+the Hansa for the Arctic voyage.—Outfit.—Scientific
+instruments.—Captain Koldewey’s audience in Bremen previous
+to departure.—Instructions for the Second German Arctic
+Expedition.—Activity of the Bremen Committee in raising funds
+to cover the cost of the expedition.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>On the 24th of October, 1868, a number of gentlemen were assembled
+at Bremen, to celebrate the happy return of the members of the First
+German Arctic Expedition, including their commander Captain Karl
+Koldewey, and its scientific originator, Dr. A. Petermann. It was on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>
+this occasion that expression was first given to the idea of another
+expedition to this inhospitable region. Preliminary conferences took
+place between Dr. Petermann, Captain Koldewey, Dr. Breusing, and
+Messrs. Meier and Rosenthal, the result of which was that the despatch
+of a new expedition became only a question of ways and means. The
+“Rough sketch of a plan for the German Arctic Expedition of 1869,”
+with maps, from Dr. Petermann, was not long wanting. According to
+his suggestion, the expedition was to consist of two parts, so as to
+endeavour to solve two problems at the same time. A steamer was to land
+on East Greenland, and taking it as the basis of the winter operations,
+should try to penetrate into the heart of the Polar region; a second
+steamer should, at any point between Greenland and Nova Zembla, strive
+to reach the highest latitude possible. For the carrying out of this
+plan two steamers were considered necessary. But the preparations
+soon reached a critical point. It was with but small results for his
+trouble that Koldewey, whose enthusiasm and self-sacrifice in the cause
+became daily more apparent, strove to keep up the interest in it by
+repeated consultations in influential quarters. Dr. Petermann then
+decided that, in order to render the carrying out of the exploration
+practicable that year, he would, with the money still in hand from the
+first expedition, commission the building of a steamer, the dimensions
+of which should both meet the requirements of an Arctic voyage, and
+keep within the compass of their straitened means. It became necessary
+for the promoters to drop one part of Dr. Petermann’s original plan,
+and confine themselves either to exploring the Central Arctic region,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span>
+with the coast of Greenland for a basis, or to advancing towards the
+North Pole by the open sea between Nova Zembla and Spitzbergen. Captain
+Koldewey declared for the former course, and also for retaining the
+programme of the Expedition of 1868; taking this view of the case,
+viz., that it must be a condition <i>sine qua non</i> to make the
+coast, in which case they would have a far greater prospect, even under
+the most difficult and adverse circumstances, of making discoveries and
+scientific investigations, than by advancing on the high sea towards
+the Pole.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Petermann acknowledged the force of this argument, and agreed that
+East Greenland must be the point to keep in sight.</p>
+
+<p>A communication dated from Gotha, 8th March, 1869, brought these
+proceedings to the knowledge of the friends of the undertaking. The
+plan was now nearly as follows: “That the expedition should consist
+of a newly-built screw steamer and of the sailing-yacht ‘Greenland,’
+a ship of the pioneer journey of 1868; that the end and aim of the
+same should be discovery and exploration in the Central Arctic region,
+from 74° N.L. upwards, the East Greenland coast being the basis. The
+‘Greenland,’ acting as consort and transport-ship, should return in
+the autumn of the same year; but the return of the chief ship should
+not take place until late in the autumn of 1870, after their intended
+wintering. That the aim of the expedition should be scientific, as
+well as nautical; the latter department being under the command of
+Captain Karl Koldewey, who the year before had proved himself so able
+in every respect, and whose character for courage, perseverance, and
+self-sacrifice in the cause,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> called for unhesitating confidence.” The
+scientific staff had already been partly chosen. To awaken interest in
+this new undertaking, no trouble was thought too great either by Dr.
+Petermann or Captain Koldewey, the latter undertaking circuits through
+Germany and delivering lectures in several places, which were sometimes
+followed by profitable results, and sometimes gave expectation of the
+same. At the same time he circulated a confident, independent, and
+well drawn up pamphlet, giving the nautical view of the question, in
+one respect differing slightly from Dr. Petermann’s original plan,
+namely, that if the coast of East Greenland was not reached until the
+middle of August, then the eastern coast of Spitzbergen and Gillisland
+should be the object of investigation. These explanations found their
+way into the daily press, exciting great interest. Dr. Petermann,
+though not quite agreeing with Koldewey’s proceedings, acted with great
+zeal in trying to bring the undertaking to a successful issue. At his
+suggestion Dr. Bastian in Berlin, and Professor Arendts in Munich,
+formed committees for receiving subscriptions. The Berlin Committee was
+chosen from members of the Berlin Geographical Society, amongst whom
+were renowned representatives of science, who published on the 3rd of
+April an energetic appeal for subscriptions. In this appeal attention
+was particularly drawn to the scientific and great national importance
+of the undertaking. Berlin, as the metropolis of the North German
+Confederation, the centre of her national efforts, was called upon, now
+that an important object for knowledge and action offered itself, to
+issue the first appeal. The sum still wanting was certain to be soon
+made up; and if Berlin with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> cheerful self-sacrifice once led the way,
+other towns would not be left behind. The appeal to the inhabitants
+of Munich (dated May) was issued by the Geographical Society, and
+signed by Professor Dr. Jolly as director, and Professor Dr. Arendts
+as secretary. Accordingly, collections were set on foot throughout the
+whole of Bavaria. In Bremen, where the preparations for the undertaking
+were to be carried out, and where it would probably find its best
+support, people were very favourable to the project. In a succession
+of communications in the daily press, and the <i>Weser-Zeitung</i>
+particularly, in an explanatory light article of the 4th of April,
+the national, nautical, and scientific importance of the undertaking
+were dwelt upon. Essays of the same kind soon appeared in the other
+different German papers. We must not forget to mention here, that
+the first favourable notice of the expedition came from the Marine
+Society <i>Concordia</i>, at Elsfleth. The chief towns throughout
+the whole of the North-Sea and Baltic coasts, beginning at Bremen,
+were actively interested in the cause. Before the formation of the
+committee at Bremen, Mr. G. Albrecht was induced by the Consul, H. H.
+Meier, with Dr. Petermann’s concurrence, to undertake the management
+of the accounts. When Consul Meier afterwards withdrew, Mr. A. G.
+Mosle undertook the presidency, offered to him by Mr. G. Albrecht and
+M. Lindeman, in order that a committee might be organized. With this
+view the first meeting took place on the 9th of April in the house
+of Messrs. Schütting. It was composed of Captain Koldewey, Mosle,
+Albrecht, C. H. Noltenius, director of the pilot-school in Bremen, Dr.
+A. Breusing, D. H. Wätjen, jun., Ship-builder F. Tecklenborg, sen., the
+Recorder of the Commercial<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> Board H. A. Schumacher, Captain Gutkese
+from Bremerhaven, and M. Lindeman, reporter. Captain Karl Koldewey laid
+the plan of the undertaking before them, and the choice of the steamer
+as expedition-ship and the “Greenland” as transport-ship. Director
+Breusing declared that to enable them to accomplish any great result,
+two steamers with outfits for three or four years would be necessary.
+Some gentlemen were of opinion that, if possible, a larger ship should
+be chosen in the place of the small confined sailing-yacht “Greenland,”
+which might be richly stored with coals and provisions, so as to put
+them in a position to pass more than one winter, if necessary, and
+thus, if possible, carry their investigation further northward. In
+the next sitting they agreed that Dr. Petermann and Captain Koldewey
+being really the originators of the undertaking, it devolved upon the
+committee to support the efforts of these gentlemen to the utmost
+of their power. The meeting styled themselves “The Bremen Committee
+for the Second North Arctic Expedition,” and chose A. G. Mosle as
+president, G. Albrecht as treasurer, and M. Lindeman as secretary. The
+committee, to which Messrs. R. Fritze, W. Nielsen, and Captain Ludwig
+Geerken were added, published on the 17th of April an appeal to their
+fellow-townsmen for subscriptions, which, among other things, contained
+the following:—“The scientific and maritime importance of the
+undertaking is everywhere admitted, and everywhere the highest interest
+evinced in it. Bremen will not be behind in promoting this national
+work. It rests for German inquiry to open up new domains, in order to
+show that German sailors are as qualified, as bold, and as persevering
+as those of other nations.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span></p>
+
+<p>The discussion with Dr. Petermann as to whether a larger transport-ship
+should be chosen or not, led to no satisfactory conclusion. For
+practical as well as financial reasons he decided in the negative.
+But on the other side were voices of weight and influence in nautical
+circles of the North Sea and Baltic coasts, and which must be heard.
+People thought it right to raise serious objections to the insufficient
+size of the ship. These, with very great exaggeration, found expression
+in the daily press, so much so that Captain Koldewey was obliged to
+interfere by letter to the newspapers. In Hamburg one of the prime
+movers in the undertaking, the director of the North German Marine
+Observatory, W. v. Freeden, had resolved to form a committee. A number
+of representatives of respectable firms, the directors of the Marine
+and Astronomical Observatories, formed themselves into the “Hamburg
+Committee for the Northern Expedition of 1869.” On the 23rd of April
+an appeal followed, in which it was represented that Hamburg had
+always shown a lively interest in all national questions, and with
+regard to this undertaking felt it incumbent upon it, remembering
+its antecedents, to guard its position as the leading seaport of
+Germany. The Hamburg Committee also declared, in a sitting at which
+Dr. Petermann and Captain Koldewey were present, for Dr. Petermann’s
+published plan of the 8th of March. By degrees the interest of the
+nation and the whole of the country began to warm more and more. New
+committees were formed in Oldenburg, Emden, and Leer, in Rheinhessen
+(Worms and Oppenheim), at Karlsruhe, Lübeck, Königsberg, and Rostock.
+The committee of Bremen, in a letter of the 2nd of May<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> addressed to
+the Berlin Committee, thus defined its position with regard to the
+carrying out of the expedition:—“After a lengthy conference between
+the seafaring men belonging to our committee, and the whale fishermen
+of the Weser-fleet, and others of the profession, we have decided that
+our direct influence must be directed and confined to the way and
+manner of carrying out the following points:—To keep in view that the
+ships shall be as good as possible, and to carefully see to the supply
+of provisions and coal. Every other nautical question coming under
+our consideration we have laid, and will continue to lay before the
+commander of the expedition, and thoroughly enter into it with him,
+still, however, not considering it our business to interfere.” A larger
+ship than the “Greenland” having been proposed, and this proposal
+approved of by Captain Koldewey, as well as by Captain Hegemann, who,
+being familiar with the Arctic waters, was to take the command of the
+second ship, it was agreed to. Amongst other reasons advanced for
+this was, that besides the thirty tons of coal required for heating
+in winter, the Germania could at the utmost only carry forty tons for
+feeding the engines. On this head alone the choice of a larger ship
+was desirable—namely, that the expedition was to be supplied with
+provisions for a longer time than was originally intended. The pending
+question as to procuring a larger ship instead of the “Greenland” was
+solved at a sitting of the Bremen Committee on the 8th of May, at which
+Dr. Petermann, Director W. v. Freeden from Hamburg, and three other
+scientific men interested in the expedition, were present—viz., that a
+number of Bremen merchants should be security for the purchase-money<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>
+for a larger companion vessel to the amount of £1500. Dr. Petermann
+now declared decidedly for choosing a larger ship instead of the
+“Greenland,” and that a sailing ship, on the ground that a suitable
+steamer was not easily procurable, and that two scientific men should
+be attached to the ship. The following resolution was drawn up by Dr.
+Petermann and signed by all present at the meeting:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>“On the 7th of next month, the Second German Arctic Expedition,
+under Captain Karl Koldewey, shall put to sea. This is the
+unanimous resolution of the friends of the undertaking,
+assembled from far and near, for the final settlement of the
+plan, at Bremen, on the 8th of May.</p>
+
+<p>“It is our unanimous endeavour to render every part of the
+equipment as perfect as possible. After strict trial and
+inspection, the steamer Germania, the newly-built chief ship
+of the expedition, fulfils every expectation, as well as the
+sailors who conduct it and the men of science who accompany it.
+The steamer, like the convoy which accompanies her, will be
+equipped for two years.</p>
+
+<p>“The Germania’s size is expressly adapted for ice-navigation;
+the accompanying ship, the Hansa, of nearly the same size,
+will also be expressly adapted for the same purpose, and will
+be under the command of Captain Fr. Hegemann, of Oldenburg. If
+possible, the two ships will remain with each other, both on the
+outward journey, through the winter, and also on the return.
+Regard to the greatest possible security of the expedition has
+led to this extension of the plan.</p>
+
+<p>“The plan of the originator of the undertaking, Dr.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> Petermann,
+of Gotha, which makes the eastern coast of Greenland the basis
+for advancing into the centre of the Arctic region, is to remain
+the first aim of this expedition.</p>
+
+<p>“The Bremen Committee have become security for the necessary
+means (£1500) for providing the second ship. We hope that in
+other parts of Germany the friends of the undertaking will show
+the same determination, as the enlarged plan requires greater
+means.</p>
+
+<p>“The naval and scientific importance of the expedition is
+everywhere acknowledged; the means for speedily and fully
+carrying it out, the interests of the German navy and of German
+science demand.</p>
+
+<p>“Bremen, 10th of May, 1869.</p>
+
+<table style="max-width: 40em">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht1">“Dr. A. Petermann,</td>
+    <td class="cht">A. G. Mosle,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">Capt. K. Koldewey,</td>
+    <td class="cht">G. Albrecht,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">Capt. Fr. Hegemann,</td>
+    <td class="cht">C. H. Noltenius,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">W. v. Freeden,</td>
+    <td class="cht">Richard Fritze,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">Dr. Börgen,</td>
+    <td class="cht">D. H. Wätjen,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">Dr. Copeland,</td>
+    <td class="cht">W. Nielsen,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">Dr. Med. Pansch,</td>
+    <td class="cht">Capt. L. Geerken,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">M. Lindeman,</td>
+    <td class="cht">Capt. W. Gutkese,</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="cht">H. H. Meier,</td>
+    <td class="cht">Synd. Dr. Schumacher.”</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus a firm foundation was laid for the whole undertaking, and the
+Bremen Committee could undisturbed make the numberless preparations and
+give all their attention and trouble to raising the money—a care which
+fell exclusively upon it, and was by no means small. Dr. Petermann had
+acted in the same way for the Expedition of 1868. The committee issued
+some <span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>thousands of circulars to raise money to meet the expense,
+which was now estimated at £10,500.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0102_ill" style="max-width: 374px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0102_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 center smcap">Karl Koldewey</p>
+     <p class="p0 center"><i>Captain of the Germania</i>.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The scientific staff for the Germania were, partly on Captain
+Koldewey’s proposal, chosen and appointed by Dr. Petermann.</p>
+
+<p>The commander of the whole expedition was Captain Koldewey, of Bucken,
+near Hoya, in the province of Hanover. He was in the thirty-second
+year of his age. Brought up in the Pilot School at Bremen, he had been
+a sailor sixteen years, that is from 1853. Giving up his practical
+business for a time, Koldewey, in order to improve himself, attended
+the Polytechnic School in Hanover, and in the winter of 1867 and 1868
+the University of Göttingen, where he studied physics and astronomy,
+which after his return from the first Arctic expedition, as far as the
+completion of his Report of it would allow, he took up again.</p>
+
+<p>The scientific members of the expedition, to ship in the Germania were
+the following:—</p>
+
+<p>1st. Dr. Karl N. J. Börgen, born in Schleswig on the 1st of October,
+1843. He attended the cathedral school in that place; was drafted in
+1863 to the University of Copenhagen, in 1864 to the University of
+Kiel, and in 1865 to that of Göttingen. In 1866, he was assistant in
+the observatory of that place; served as a volunteer in the army of
+the North German Alliance from January 15th, 1867, to 1868. Obtaining
+leave of absence for two years, he received on that occasion from the
+Prussian Ministry of Public Instruction a subsidy of £75.</p>
+
+<p>2nd. Dr. R. Copeland, born the 3rd of September, 1837, at Woodplumpton
+in Lancashire, England. Acquired a scientific education in his own
+country, travelled in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> foreign countries, and in 1865–67 studied
+astronomy in Göttingen. Since 1867 he had worked as voluntary assistant
+in the observatory of that place. In the spring of 1869 Dr. Börgen and
+himself published jointly a large astronomical work, together with
+“The History of Arctic Winterings.” In the present expedition they had
+undertaken both astronomical and physical science as well as geodesy.</p>
+
+<p>3rd. Julius Payer, first lieutenant of infantry in the Imperial
+Austrian army, twenty-seven years, old, was born at Teplitz, in
+Bohemia, where his father was captain of a regiment of lancers. His
+education and training he received in the Neustadt Military Academy,
+from which he received his commission as an officer in the army
+in 1859, followed by a garrison life in Mainz, Frankfort, Verona,
+Venice, and Jägerndorf. In Verona, excited by the neighbourhood of
+the Alps, Payer began his studies. There appeared in Justus Perthes’
+<i>Geographische Mittheilungen</i> several scientific papers from his
+pen on the Gross-Glockner, the Adamell group, and the Ortler Alps. Of
+his other works, a treatise on the Bocca di Brenta is deserving of
+mention. In 1866 Payer took part in the Italian war, and received the
+cross of merit at Custozza; in 1868 he was recalled by the Minister of
+War and was commissioned to the survey of the inhospitable region of
+the mountainous district of Austria. The request for leave to accompany
+the Arctic expedition was granted most graciously by the Minister
+of War, together with a supply of fire-arms, a considerable store
+of gunpowder, and various scientific instruments. Payer joined the
+expedition with the prestige of his previous reputation for activity in
+the cause of science.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span></p>
+
+<p>4th. Adolphus Pansch, M.D., surgeon to the Germania, to whom
+were assigned the departments of zoology, botany, ethnology, and
+anthropology, was twenty-eight years old, and studied medicine and
+physical science in Berlin, 1860; in 1861, at Heidelberg, physiology
+and geology; travelled through Switzerland, attended the clinical
+lectures in Berlin and Halle; and later on passed the prescribed
+examination in Oldenburg as a practical physician, and was made
+demonstrator of anatomy in July, 1865. In 1866 he acted as private
+tutor at the University of Kiel. Pansch had written several scientific
+treatises, from amongst which we should specify, from its practical
+bearings and its extensive research, a pamphlet upon the “Flora of the
+Seas.” Dr. Pansch received permission from the government to join the
+expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The scientific men on board the Hansa were the two following:—</p>
+
+<p>1st. Dr. Buchholz, M.D., and surgeon to the Hansa, represented the
+departments of zoology, ethnology, and anthropology. Whilst serving
+as tutor at the University of Greifswald, he received leave to join
+the expedition, with a grant from the Minister of Public Instruction
+and the University of £75 for his outfit. Dr. Buchholz was born at
+Frankfort-on-the-Oder in 1837, studied in Königsberg and Berlin, and in
+the Bohemian campaign of 1866 was assistant-surgeon in a hospital of
+the Prussian army.</p>
+
+<p>2nd. Dr. Gustavus Laube, Vienna, professor of zoology and lecturer to
+the University and Polytechnic School in Vienna, thirty years old,
+was born in Teplitz, and studied in Prague, Munich, and Tübingen. He
+was afterwards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> assistant to Professor Hochstetter, in Vienna, who
+recommended him warmly for the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The Germania, the chief ship of the expedition, was laid on the slips
+for building on the 10th of March, 1869, by Joh. C. Tecklenborg, of
+Bremerhaven, and was launched on the 16th of April. On the 9th of
+May, Captain Koldewey and Dr. Petermann went on board, accompanied by
+various members of the Bremen Committee, the director of the North
+German Marine Observatory, W. v. Freeden, and other friends (amongst
+whom were several experienced seamen). The ship was thoroughly
+inspected in all parts. W. v. Freeden’s report of this inspection, will
+form the best description of the ship. He says, that upon measuring
+the Germania she was ninety feet long, twenty-two and a half broad,
+eleven feet deep, and 143 tons burden: this size, a few years ago,
+was considered the highest standard for the best West Indian fruit or
+Brazilian coffee schooners. Of course the steamer was built stronger
+than required for such purposes as the above; and the ordinary planking
+was coated with a hand-thick sheathing, thus protecting the stem, and
+in a ship of 600 tons undiscernible below the water-line. Over this
+iron sheathing, which is bolted and riveted, not simply nailed on,
+is fastened a layer of sheet-iron. Thus double provision was made in
+order that the ice fretting at the ship’s sides should not force the
+oakum out of the seams, so causing a leakage. Over the iron sheathing,
+by the bow, heavy iron rods were laid crossways, close together.
+Notwithstanding this armour, the ship’s lines were pleasing to the eye,
+and, on account of her sharp build, she proved an excellent sailer.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0141_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0141_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="sm right p-min"><a href="#Page_14"><i>Page 14.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE GERMANIA.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>In the interior also, the strength of her build was <span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>striking, even
+to landsmen. Such strong beams ’tween decks are seldom seen in vessels
+of 400 tons. They are only to be found in large barques and full-rigged
+ships. The knees were alternately of wood and iron; vertical supports
+above and below the middle deck protected it, together with bands
+of the strongest iron clamps, from any side pressure of masses of
+ice against the ship’s sides, so that neither keel or deck could be
+displaced. The sharp build of the ship would rather have the effect of
+raising her on to the ice, than of allowing her to be nipped by it.</p>
+
+<p>The compact machinery was mounted, and the axis tested in position;
+the double-flanged screw could be lifted in and out without trouble. A
+reserve screw was also taken. As the ship was to be completely fitted
+with sails, the machinery was only to be used amongst the ice, or when
+she was obliged to beat against the wind.</p>
+
+<p>The masts furnished were of that sort that no pressure on the sails
+nor heavy shock could dismast her. A topsail on the foremast rendered
+veering and backing easy, and her depth in the water was from nine
+to ten feet. As the ship’s course would lie along the eastern coast
+of Greenland, between the land and the not far distant ice-pack, a
+deeper draught would have been dangerous; neither could she have been
+much larger, for a larger vessel must have been flat-bottomed, to
+prevent her drawing too much water. This was satisfactorily proved
+on the voyage. Flat-bottomed vessels are very dangerous amongst the
+ice. Certainly the ship would have turned more easily, if she had been
+two feet broader; but her capability of threading the narrow channels
+between the ice would have been weakened in corresponding degree.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span></p>
+
+<p>Including the machinery and ship’s fittings, the Germania cost the
+round sum of £3150.</p>
+
+<p>The second ship, the purchase-money of which, as we have already
+remarked, had been previously guaranteed by some merchants belonging
+to the Bremen Committee, was the Prussian schooner Fulton, built on
+the Weser in 1864, of 76¾ tons burden. She received the name of the
+“Hansa,” and was laid on the slips by F. W. Wenke and Co. (Rosenthal).</p>
+
+<p>A difficult and important part of the preparations was the victualling
+the ships. The only precedents of use were supplied by the experience
+of those who had been engaged in the Greenland trade from the Weser.
+Certainly the eastward journey of the “Greenland,” in 1868, constituted
+somewhat of a guide. But never yet had a German ship sailed from
+the German coast with the intention of passing a winter in Arctic
+latitudes. On that account the experience of Englishmen, Americans,
+and Russians was carefully considered in the outfitting. Above all,
+attention was particularly paid to completeness and plentiful supply,
+as well as to the good quality of every article. The honourable
+character of the contractors, the eagerness shown on their side to
+further a national undertaking, and their wish on this occasion to
+keep up their reputation, stood the undertaking in good stead. On
+their departure, the members of the expedition particularly thanked
+them for the consideration they had shown to all their wishes with
+regard to the stores, and expressed their satisfaction with everything.
+Parsimony could not for a moment be considered at such a time; it would
+have been misplaced, inhuman, and destructive of the very aim of the
+expedition, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>had any niggardliness been shown. A complete outfit for
+both ships for two whole years was above all things a necessity, and
+indeed a point of honour.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0161_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0161_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_16"><i>Page 16.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE “HANSA.”</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The contract for the victualling of the Germania was given to D.
+Cordes and Co., of Bremen, and that for the Hansa to H. Richers of
+Hamburg. Neither ship carried much dried or salted meat, but a great
+quantity of preserved meats in tins; also a good supply of drinks,
+which are so necessary on an Arctic voyage, besides many presents of
+wine; and lastly, a corresponding quantity of clothing for all who
+were taking part in the expedition. Both ships had a similar allowance
+of everything needful; and the Berlin Committee were of very great
+assistance in providing scientific apparatus and instruments, some of
+the most important of which were kindly lent by various persons and
+institutions.</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th of May, Captain Koldewey had an audience of his Majesty
+King William at Babelsberg. His Majesty allowed Captain Koldewey to
+explain his plan by aid of a map. He expressed his satisfaction that a
+man had been found willing to carry out the undertaking, and fixed his
+visit to the vessels for his future intended journey to Bremen.</p>
+
+<p>The time of starting was settled for the middle of June; and from March
+to that time every exertion was brought to bear upon the work that all
+might be complete. The equipment in every respect was accomplished in
+good time; and when all was ready for departure, a joint committee
+was called together to consider, at the last moment, what had been
+accomplished, and what remained to be decided on, in the case of
+certain eventualities. The scientific men were first greeted with the
+warmest thanks for their courageous resolution, and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> hope expressed
+that it would be followed by rich results. It was then decided by the
+committee that the expedition should sail from Bremerhaven on the 15th
+of June at noon. A telegram addressed to Captain Koldewey confirmed
+the interest which King William had already shown in the undertaking,
+stating that on the 15th he would be in Bremerhaven and Geestemünde.
+All was then to be prepared for the king’s visit and for immediate
+departure. An elaborate form was drawn up by Dr. Petermann on the
+7th of June under the title of “Instructions for the Second German
+Arctic Expedition of 1869–70.” On all the chief points both captains
+and scientific men were agreed, though some seemed to require earnest
+consideration; but there was now no time for further discussions.
+However, they agreed to make some unimportant alterations regarding
+the official reports of the expedition, and the ownership of the notes
+made by the scientific members during the voyage, as well as regarding
+the form and address of any communications to be sent home. They were
+all to be sent to Dr. Petermann. On the return of the expedition a
+preliminary report was to be drawn up, and the whole given up to a
+commission composed of the captains and scientific men belonging to the
+expedition, and the supporters and leaders of the undertaking, as well
+as scientific authorities. Dr. Petermann informed them of his agreement
+to these alterations by telegraph.</p>
+
+<p>The most important part of the proceedings of the joint committee lay
+in the last consultation, namely, how and when tidings of the men
+belonging to the expedition were to be gained in case their return
+should be too long delayed, and they should require assistance, or if
+their death should take place on the ice-fields of Greenland. It was
+resolved:—</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span></p>
+
+<p>“That the expedition should, on the coast or islands, as nearly as
+possible under each degree of latitude or longitude, build up a heap
+of stones, or some other erection; that the burying of documents
+detailing the events and condition of the undertaking should not be
+within this sign, but at a distance of twenty metres due north of it
+(<i>not magnetic</i>). And if from the nature of the ground no such
+distance could be taken, the documents were still to be deposited to
+the northward. The monuments were, if possible, to be erected on a
+declivity; and as the Esquimaux greatly venerate all graves, so, in
+case of death, tidings of the expedition were to be placed under the
+body.” At the same spot also all notices of the German Arctic voyage
+were to be sought if they themselves were unable to give information.
+This decision was telegraphed to Dr. Petermann, who returned his assent.</p>
+
+<p>Then followed a solemn oath taken by all those belonging to the
+expedition; the two captains, as well as the scientific men, promising
+that both by word and deed, and under all circumstances, they would
+strive with all their might to reach the goal set before them.</p>
+
+<p>The instructions contained thirty-one paragraphs; in Sects. 1 and 2 the
+aim and object of the expedition was declared to be the discovery and
+scientific investigation of the Central Arctic region from 75° N.L. and
+upwards, taking the eastern coast of Greenland as a basis. This object
+included two tasks: 1st, the solving of the so-called Arctic question;
+2nd, the discovery, surveying, and investigation of East Greenland;
+thence northwards towards Behring’s Straits, including all intermediate
+countries, islands, and stretch of sea; the measuring<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> of degrees in
+East Greenland, and ascents of the glaciers in the interior, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>In the third, the “Arctic question,” with special regard to the late
+Swedish, Russian, and English voyages of discovery, was discussed. For
+the better investigation of the Polar Sea, and for reaching the North
+Pole itself, the following of the coast-line was strictly enjoined, as
+experience had shown that land is the soonest free from ice, and that
+along the coast is formed the so-called land water; the navigation too
+has a chance of commencing earlier, is comparatively safe, and promises
+the largest results, as really important scientific discoveries can
+scarcely be expected without the solid basis of land.</p>
+
+<p>The Second German Arctic Expedition would therefore make East Greenland
+their basis of operations. Even under the greatest difficulties, the
+results from an investigation of East Greenland, and an extended
+knowledge of that still unknown coast, might be expected to mark an
+epoch in the history of science.</p>
+
+<p>Sect. 6 ordered that both ships under the command of Captain Karl
+Koldewey should make direct for the floating ice of East Greenland
+in about 74½° N.L., and as soon as possible reach Sabine Island,
+lying on the east coast in that latitude, and then deliberate on the
+accessibility of the coast from 70° to 79°.</p>
+
+<p>Sects. 7 and 8 decided as follows: if in 74½° N.L. immediate access to
+the coast was not possible on account of the ice and the state of the
+weather, and there was no prospect of being able to reach it in a short
+time, the attempt must be made farther northward as far as 80°; if
+still unsuccessful, to go as low down as 70°, and take advantage of any
+opening lying between 70° and 80° N.L.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span> If the coast of East Greenland
+in 74½° is reached, or any other point between 70° and 80° N.L., and it
+is found (as in the course of things might be expected) that there is
+open water, so, without more delay than is necessary for observing and
+surveying the newly-discovered land about 75° 14 N.L., to press forward
+to the north, and to go as far along the coast as circumstances will
+allow.</p>
+
+<p>Sect. 9 pointed out as the chief task of the expedition, the
+geographical one of penetrating into the still unknown heart of the
+Arctic regions, and stated that every other consideration was to give
+place to the solution of this question.</p>
+
+<p>Sects. 10 and 11 enlarged upon the scientific work, and the different
+course to be taken by the expedition in case they should find open sea
+in the region of the Polar circle.</p>
+
+<p>By Sect. 12, they were enjoined to winter at the most northerly
+point they could reach—if possible at the North Pole itself, but in
+any case it was hoped in not less than 80° of lat. Of the remaining
+instructions, we must draw attention to the Sects. 15, 16, 22, 24, 27,
+and 28. The two first-mentioned decided as follows:—The return of
+the expedition was to be managed so that both vessels should, at the
+latest, arrive at Bremerhaven together about the 1st of November, 1870.
+If the Hansa should be unable to keep up with the steamer Germania,
+either on account of the ice or want of fair wind, the steamer should
+without any delay proceed on her course, leaving the Hansa to follow
+as soon as possible. In case of separation, the point each ship was
+to make for was 74½° N.L. outside the floating ice, though along the
+coast. By this Sabine Island was meant.</p>
+
+<p>Sect. 22 consisted of the special instructions drawn up<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span> by various
+German <i>savans</i>, and communicated through Dr. Petermann.</p>
+
+<p>In Sect. 24 particular reference was made to the importance of the
+ascent of glaciers, to be undertaken by Lieut. Payer.</p>
+
+<p>Sects. 27 and 28 contained further orders concerning the naming of
+the newly-discovered lands, which for the most part was to be left
+until the completion of the general map at home; also regarding the
+value and the use to be made of the collections brought home, and the
+apportionment of the work resulting therefrom. All these provisions
+could only be seriously considered on the return of the expedition, and
+would then serve as rules for the guidance of the Bremen Committee.
+With this the complicated preparations were ended, and the day of
+departure drew near.</p>
+
+<p>The Bremen Committee might now look upon that part of their task which
+related to the support of these preparations as finished. Another
+part which, as has been already remarked, devolved entirely upon
+them, was that of raising the considerable amount still required to
+defray the cost of the undertaking. At the time of starting, not half
+the cost of the expedition had been raised, and the Bremen Committee
+were, in this task, busily occupied for more than a year. Invitations
+for subscriptions were published and sent to private individuals as
+well as to corporations, to the representatives of Germany in foreign
+countries, and also to the magistrates of many German towns.<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> An
+account of the position of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span> undertaking was spread over the whole
+of Germany by thousands of circulars, and even among the Germans
+in foreign towns and in Transatlantic lands; the summons being a
+printed communication entitled,—“The Despatch of the Second German
+Arctic Expedition.” And, lastly, by the generous coming forward of an
+eminent German publisher, Mr. George Westermann, in Brunswick, the
+entire public was provided with a pamphlet containing some excellent
+wood engravings drawn to scale, entitled, “The Second German Arctic
+Expedition: Official Communication of the Bremen Committee,” in
+which more distinct information was given as to the aim, means, and
+importance of the undertaking. This agitation, which kept alive the
+interest in it, was followed by the best results. Donations<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> poured
+in from all sides from Germans in foreign lands, even from Honolulu and
+Tahiti, South America, the East Indies, and China.</p>
+
+<p>The debts incurred by the expedition were paid off, and even after its
+return new and pressing expenses were met. The Bremen Committee were
+also freed from the insurance money of the Hansa, and some of Captain
+Koldewey’s men had extra wages given to them.</p>
+
+<p>Whether and to what extent the Second German Arctic Expedition
+fulfilled the promised expectations, what and how much it was allowed
+to perform and to attain, with a full and true report of the same, is
+the task and aim of the work now before us.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER I.<br>
+<span class="subhed">VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA AND HANSA FROM THE 15TH JUNE TO THE 4TH JULY, 1869.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">First evening at sea.—Life on board.—The first
+storm.—Cabin life.—In 57° N.L.—Dutch fishing-boat.—Visits
+exchanged.—Fresh storm and fog.—Entrance to the North Sea.—A
+clear night.—Animal life.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The departure of the expedition from Bremerhaven took place on the 15th
+of June, 1869, in the presence of his Majesty the King of Prussia,
+whose warm interest in this great national undertaking showed itself
+in this solemn hour in a manner never to be forgotten. Amongst the
+numerous gentlemen in attendance on his Majesty were his Royal Highness
+the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg Schwerin, Count Bismarck, the Minister
+of War and Marine, von Roon, General von Moltke, and Vice-Admiral
+Jachman. The ships lay at the entrance of the new harbour just outside
+the sluice. The king having been introduced to the scientific gentlemen
+and the commander of the expedition, and having greeted them with a
+hearty shake of the hand, the President of the Bremen Committee, Herr
+A. G. Mosle, requested his Majesty’s permission to speak a few parting
+words; and in an earnest and impressive manner the speaker referred
+to the greatness and importance of the object, the self-denial,
+difficulties, and dangers which lay before them, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span> which they all
+willingly braved for the honour of their native land, for the honour of
+the German navy and of German science. That the Second German Arctic
+Expedition should put to sea under the eyes of his Majesty, would, he
+was sure, be looked upon by all present as a happy omen; and all might
+with good reason join in cheering the august Monarch of their country,
+whose mighty representative and protector he was, as well as those on
+board the two vessels, who were about to sail under the national flag
+lent by his Majesty, to unknown lands in search of knowledge. Cheers
+from a thousand voices then rent the air, after which the king once
+more shook hands with those belonging to the expedition, at the same
+time expressing hearty good wishes for their safe return. The king then
+passed on to the Germania at the head of his suite, and inspected the
+now finished preparations with great attention. But the decisive moment
+had arrived; cannon roared; three more cheers rose from either side,
+and the Germania towed by the steam-tug Simson, and the Hansa by the
+Vulcan, made for the mouth of the Weser, the king watching the ships to
+the very mouth of the harbour. It was an exciting time, as we glided
+over the quiet liquid mirror alongside of the quay—the banks decked
+with the fresh green of spring-time and enlivened by a gaily-dressed
+crowd, and the flags flying from the ships, large and small,—and took
+our last view of the houses and towers of the town.</p>
+
+<p>With heads uncovered and handkerchiefs waving, our friends sent their
+last farewell. But with these feelings of pleasure were mixed thoughts
+regarding the future. Would it be permitted to us some day to return
+home?<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> How many of us might be missing, sick, or infirm? How should we
+find our country? Would it still be, as now, enjoying the blessings of
+peace, and its grey-headed king still be living?</p>
+
+<p>But we were not yet quite parted from it. Besides the pilot, two
+staunch friends, who would not be deprived of the pleasure of
+accompanying us to sea, were still on board. One was the director of
+the North German Marine Observatory, Mr. von Freeden, and the other the
+director of the Observatory of Göttingen, Professor Klinkerfues, who
+wished to take his last farewell of his pupils on the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The town was now fast disappearing from our eyes; the flat green banks
+on either side, with their solitary houses and church towers, were
+receding; and the lighthouse, visible for a long distance, was looming
+nearer and nearer.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime the crew had not been idle on deck. Everything that had
+come on board in the hurry of the last hour had either been put in its
+proper place or made fast, and everywhere the last touch put. But in
+the cabin, where a magnificent bouquet had been placed by some loving
+hand, accompanied by a few appropriate poetical words of farewell,
+a most pleasing surprise to us, we sat with our friends over a good
+glass of wine, once more renewing every kind wish and hope for the
+future. One was hurriedly scribbling a last good-bye to relations and
+friends, another entrusting his money to those who were about to return
+(for in such an expedition it would have been comparatively useless),
+a third had only a greeting and a commission to send. Once more the
+glasses clinked over wishes for success and a happy return; and then
+we went on deck, for the increased motion of the ship reminded us that
+we were nearing the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> sea. Indeed, we had already left the lighthouse
+and fire-ship far behind us, and passed the last sea-mark, the
+“Schlüsseltonne.” The tug stopped, the hawser was cast off, a boat came
+off from the pilot-cutter close by, and the pilot left us. Immediately
+afterwards a boat came alongside, and we were obliged to take leave of
+our friends. A hearty shake of the hand said more than words could. A
+last nod, and they too set off, not to reach the harbour until a late
+hour. By this time the Hansa had reached us and dismissed her tug. At
+first starting, she had had the misfortune to break her towing cable,
+from which circumstance, had we been superstitious, we should have
+drawn a bad augury. But this weakness, so much indulged in by seamen of
+all nations, was wanting in our community.</p>
+
+<p>We were now fairly left to ourselves, and with a cheerful song
+the sailors set one sail after another; and thus, with a light
+south-westerly breeze, which had just sprung up, under full sail
+for the north we left our native land, to meet an uncertain future.
+The prevailing frame of mind was serious; every man of us knew what
+depended individually upon himself, and what was expected of us; that
+the whole world of letters was watching the undertaking; but still we
+had full confidence in the cause, and were fully determined to return
+to our native shore only with honour.</p>
+
+<p>The ships sailed pretty well together, though the light breeze gave the
+Hansa a little advantage, the mainsail of the Germania not being large
+enough for such a wind. Under these circumstances, we had no difficulty
+in keeping company.</p>
+
+<p>Below, there was still enough to do to get things in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> order. Our chests
+were already unpacked, and the cabin, whither most of our effects had
+been brought, somewhat cleared, that we might at least have room for
+ourselves. At eight o’clock the two captains met once more to have
+a necessary consultation as to the course they should now take. We
+then, for the first time, took our tea and supper all together at a
+modestly-laid table, took one more walk on the deck of the ship, now
+gaily sailing northward, sent one more long earnest look, many a wish,
+back to our now no longer visible country, and then, tired and worn out
+with the noise and excitement of the day, sought an early rest in our
+berths.</p>
+
+<p>The wind remained in the same quarter during the night, so that about
+midnight we passed the beacon off Heligoland.</p>
+
+<p>The daily ship’s life, that is, the occupation of the community on the
+Germania while at sea, was, of course, like that on any other ship:
+and the gentlemen in the cabin did their best to divide their time as
+follows:—“We are” (writes one of them) “awakened at half-past six,
+dress, and take our turns in the small washing-room, finish our toilet,
+and go on deck to enjoy the fresh morning air, and look after the
+weather, which at sea is a much more important object than on land.
+In the cabin, meanwhile, where cleaning has been begun quite early,
+the table is laid, and punctually at seven o’clock we sit down to
+breakfast, to which, besides bread and butter, is added cold meat of
+some kind or other, to which we were unaccustomed. The captain takes
+his meals with us, so that, as one officer is obliged to be on deck,
+we are seven. After breakfast, we generally stay a short time on deck,
+either sitting on the bulwarks or walking up and down,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span> whistling a
+tune or smoking a morning cigar. Before dinner, we generally have
+some work to do in the cabin, though at first, in the dry weather,
+nothing much comes of it. At twelve, the work-table is changed into the
+dining-table, and with hungry stomachs we sit down to steaming soup.
+After dinner, we take a nap in the cabin, or (which is more agreeable)
+in fine weather on deck, where a sail or one of our airing counterpanes
+serves as a couch. Then another cigar; and about four o’clock we have
+coffee, which we frequently take in the open air. In the afternoon
+each goes to his own work or amusement; and, punctually at seven,
+the evening meal is on the table, tea with bread and butter and cold
+meat. The evening finds us at different occupations, either above or
+below; some playing chess or cards, smoking, and trying, in mutual
+reminiscences of home and talk of future plans, to divert our thoughts,
+which, under the scouted name of home-sickness, will creep in now and
+then, particularly when we are out on a moonlight night. Between ten
+and twelve o’clock, we climb into our berths, and enjoy (except on
+stormy nights) a sound and healthy sleep. Over the smoking in the cabin
+there soon arose a lively debate. We found that amongst us, a thing
+very common in Germany, three were inveterate smokers; that three were
+decidedly the contrary, and that the seventh was neutral. On account
+of the smallness of the cabin, this was a decided difficulty. At last
+we came to an agreement, that there should be perfect liberty to smoke
+in the cabin from twelve until an hour before the evening meal; for
+the rest of the day it was forbidden. Should this interdict prove too
+burdensome for any one, he must have recourse to the deck; and he who
+at any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> time would not miss this enjoyment, could at least fall back
+upon a ‘deck cigar.’”</p>
+
+<p>In the first part of the time the want of longer walks was much felt,
+particularly in a rough sea, when it was impossible even to walk up
+and down. For this reason we often helped to furl the sails, or take
+the helm for an hour. Dr. Pansch even took part in the watches for a
+certain time, partly for amusement and the interest he took in sea
+life, which he had learnt in his native seaport town, and partly to
+become acquainted with the ship and the character of the men, which,
+in case of accidents, might be of great advantage. On the second day
+of our voyage the sea began to make itself seriously felt. The wind
+had veered to the north-west, and rose to a miniature storm, so it was
+no wonder that the greater part of us had to sacrifice to Neptune. The
+beginning of seasickness (writes one) was decidedly partly brought on
+by the fact that everything on board was <i>new</i>; the smell of paint
+and varnish was mixed with the vapour of woollen coverings; and this
+atmosphere found no vent, the door as well as the skylight being kept
+closely shut on account of the sea. And, as is often the case on board
+a new vessel, the seams were not perfectly caulked, so that water was
+constantly dropping into the cabin, and even into the berths on the
+sleepers. Besides that which ran down the stairs and was brought in
+with the clothes, a great deal collected under the matting, so that we
+lived in a very moist and vapoury atmosphere. If such inconveniences
+were not quite agreeable to experienced seamen, upon us, some of whom
+had come from the interior, and had never even smelt sea-water, they
+made a very disagreeable impression. Then the narrow space in which we
+were cramped, the very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span> greasy food, and the impossibility of finding
+any work to occupy us, all acted greatly on both mind and stomach. But
+we got accustomed to it in time; and the day comes when a man is able
+to look at such disagreeables in a brighter light. Droll accidents,
+however, sometimes came to enliven the dulness of our situation. We
+scientific men found ourselves badly enough off in our berths. Like
+bedsteads, they were provided with a board that the occupants should
+not be thrown out. But as we had packed the greater part of our books,
+clothes, and small instruments under the mattresses, that means of
+protection answered no longer; and those lying on the leeward side were
+obliged every evening to prop it up with heaps of books. Even then,
+it often happened, if the ship rolled heavily, that one of us would
+be pitched from the upper berth into the middle of the cabin near the
+stove, and there lie in a state of astonishment.</p>
+
+<p>The stay on deck, too, was not always very agreeable, for boxes and
+packages of all kinds lessened the already narrow space to a painful
+degree. In a high rolling sea the ship was nearly always on her
+leeside, and more often took water on both sides, so that it was really
+only aft that we could keep our feet dry, or indeed move at all.</p>
+
+<p>The stormy weather of the 17th and 18th of June brought on a heavy
+sea, so that, in order not to get too far from each other the Hansa
+was obliged to keep more to leeward, but towards evening neared us
+again. The first look and the first words upon coming on deck naturally
+related to the Hansa, and so the oft-repeated question came to be a
+by-word, “Where is the Hansa?” “To leeward!”</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th, it was calm with fine weather, and a slight sea-roll
+to windward from the north. We took this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> opportunity of trying our
+machinery, and endeavoured to tow the Hansa. We succeeded beyond our
+expectations. With a steam pressure of only forty pounds we were able
+to bring the Hansa along at the rate of two and a half knots against
+the breeze, which seemed quite enough for our purpose. In the afternoon
+a light breeze from the north-east got up; the boiler was therefore
+dispensed with, the cable hauled in, and sail set, which gave us about
+eighty-eight nautical miles for the day’s run.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Then followed more
+than a week of almost uninterrupted violent north-west wind, which for
+many days kept us in 57° N.L.</p>
+
+<p>This long stand-still was very unsatisfactory, and tried our patience
+sorely. With every fresh morning did we hope for a change in the wind.
+The scientific men were particularly impatient, as the constant rolling
+of the ship prevented them from doing anything but read and read again.</p>
+
+<p>The zoologists were the only persons fortunate enough to find work in
+their department, although on board the Germania it seemed to result in
+nothing more than angling either on the surface or in deep water. Dr.
+Buchholz on the Hansa was busy with his task, helped by Dr. Laube, the
+geologist, with all his might, as well as by the whole of the sailors.
+As often as the weather permitted nets were thrown out, then drawn in
+from time to time, and emptied of their contents. The only good gained
+by this involuntary delay (so writes Dr. Pansch on board the Germania)
+was that we thoroughly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> learnt all the qualities of our vessel. The
+captain was delighted to find that she not only tacked well and easily,
+but that she worked well off the wind.</p>
+
+<p>The Hansa in this respect was far behind us, and we were often obliged
+to stand before the wind, that she might come up with us.</p>
+
+<p>The sailors on both ships soon showed their good qualities, and between
+them and the learned part of the ship’s company there was very soon a
+good understanding.</p>
+
+<p>The 26th of June formed a salutary pause in this stormy week; the wind,
+which had been fitful since the afternoon before, died quite away in
+the night, and the ship on the following morning was gently rolling
+with the now diminished breeze. This morning, in 57° N.L. and 2° 43′
+E.L., we came up with a small vessel, which our sailors had already
+recognized as a fishing-smack. On approaching nearer this was confirmed
+by the fish hung up to dry in the rigging; and immediately a lively
+longing awoke within us to have some cheap and fresh-caught members
+of the “scaly tribe” for our table. With this aim in view, one of our
+company hailed the northmen with a loud cry of, “Ship ahoy! have you
+any fish on board?” “Yes.” “Fresh fish?” “Yes.” “Come on board!” The
+small vessel was at once full of life; a boat was lowered, and in a
+short time was alongside of us, and two young sailors, looking like
+Dutchmen, came up with a basket of the finest kinds of large turbot
+and soles. In the jargon which all seafaring frequenters of the North
+Sea soon learn, be their native language Low Dutch, Flemish, Danish,
+Norwegian, Swedish, or English, we managed to negotiate with them, and
+with bright faces<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> the fishermen took back as the price a piece of salt
+meat and bacon, together with a flask of brandy. They then asked if
+we had a doctor on board, and begged of him to go with them, as their
+“captain was sick.” For such an adventure, and unexpected extension of
+his practice, Dr. Pansch did not want a second invitation. He paid a
+visit to the worthy old Dutchman, and with the help of a limited stock
+of Dutch once gained in Holland, he succeeded in holding a conversation
+in the national gibberish with the honest fisher-people, giving his
+best advice to the “captain,” who had been struck with a bar on the
+breast, and also to an old sailor ill with scurvy, promising to send
+something to do them good. As a fee he brought back with him a second
+basketful of fish, and thus we had the pleasure of knowing that the
+whole of the ship, or as the sailors expressed it “all hands,” both
+at noon and in the evening could participate in the dainty food. When
+the sailors mentioned the direction of our voyage, the Dutchmen took
+us for whale-fishers; but on really understanding the unusual task
+that had been allotted to our ship, instead of opening their mouths
+wide with, perhaps, unintelligible pity, their eyes brightened. “Oh,
+new discoveries in Greenland!” they exclaimed, and became at once
+quite at home with us. It seemed as if the proud remembrance of a
+time long past, when Dutch ships made millions every year by the
+northern fisheries, and Dutch seamen enriched geography by the grandest
+discoveries, was still alive in the minds of these people. They now
+looked upon the ship with heightened interest, put many intelligent
+questions with regard to our wintering, and took leave of us with
+such repeated and hearty good wishes that many <span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>of our seamen at
+home, who thought fit to look upon our voyage with indifference or
+derision, would have been thoroughly put to shame by these simple Dutch
+fishermen. And the captain did not forget, immediately upon running
+his craft into the harbour, to enter his meeting with the Germania
+in the <i>Shipping News</i>; this notice being the first news of the
+expedition seen in the papers.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0342_ill" style="max-width: 426px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0342_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 smcap center">Paul Friedrich August Hegemann</p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center"><i>Captain of the Hansa</i>.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>These fishermen, with their old-fashioned craft, hang about the banks
+of the North Sea for weeks together. They fish with the line and the
+net, and catch turbot, soles, and cod more particularly. These are at
+once cleaned, cut into suitable pieces, salted in barrels, and then
+packed. When they have a good cargo they run into harbour, unload,
+and run out again. This practice they carry on as long as the weather
+will allow. For many years their captains and their steersmen have
+been familiar with the neighbourhood of the North Sea, and often, from
+hard-earned experience, know better than the most learned seaman how to
+take their bearings. Nautical instruments they do not use; they do not
+even understand them. According to the depth of the line and the nature
+of the matter brought up from the bottom by the lead, they know their
+whereabouts.</p>
+
+<p>With a light breeze rising, we continued our course, and about noon our
+sister-ship joined us. Captain Hegemann and Dr. Laube came on board,
+while Mr. Sengstacke and Dr. Pansch went over to the Hansa to shake
+hands with their friends once more.</p>
+
+<p>“It was interesting” (writes Dr. Pansch) “to see, from another ship,
+the Germania under sail, with her peculiar build, strong masts, and
+black body without any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> streaks. The peculiar pleasure one naturally
+feels at being stationed on the chief ship, and that a steamer, was to
+a certain degree corrected. What we Germania people had to bear from
+deprivations and want of room we fully realized, now that we saw the
+complete, and well-ordered space on the Hansa. In the handsome bright
+cabin (he continues) there were only five people. Dr. Buchholz showed
+me his nice cabin, which he enjoyed all to himself. In front of his
+bunk was room enough for chests and boxes, not piled one on another,
+but placed so that they could be got at; and besides that, a place
+for a writing-table, where he could work quietly and undisturbed. The
+deck-space was not encroached upon by all sorts of stores, and even now
+seemed to offer accommodation for working upon large animals, without
+being in the way of the sailors. There was room enough for a zoologist
+in cold and windy weather to put up his table there. We pictured to
+ourselves our united activity in the brightest colours; we agreed upon
+the plan of attack, and carrying out of our future work amongst the
+ice Fauna; we supplemented our literature by changing some books; in
+short, we lived entirely in the delightful contemplation of our great
+task. Fate had, however, ordered our future far otherwise. Besides
+this, every one on board both ships was overjoyed at last by a sunny
+day, and all tried their best to dry all their wet things. On board the
+Hansa this seemed particularly necessary, for lying in the sun on the
+quarter-deck were some thousands of cigars which in the storm had made
+too intimate an acquaintance with the sea-water. At noon each party
+returned to their own ship.”</p>
+
+<p>Then followed a two-days’ gale, which blew stubbornly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span> from the
+north-west. It flooded the deck and cabin once more with water; but
+these days were the last to bring us any sad remembrance of the German
+Ocean. Upon nearing 59° N.L., exactly a fortnight after our departure,
+the influence of the north wind came to an end, and it came on to blow
+from the south.</p>
+
+<p>This last storm ended on the 28th of June, and the next day we went
+slowly forward. It was a clear, warm day, so that we opened and aired
+every place, and all dampness was once more got rid of. The deck, too,
+was perfectly dry; so it was cleared, and in some places caulked by the
+carpenter.</p>
+
+<p>In the last days of June the freshening north wind brought us another
+hindrance, which was to follow us for many days. As long as the
+temperature stood at 50° F. a fog rose about noon, which in the evening
+grew so dense, that for fear of being separated from the Hansa each
+ship was obliged to blow the fog-horn alternately for sixteen hours,
+the broken tones of which sounded most melancholy through the troubled
+atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p>Slowly but surely we cruised onwards, so that on the evening of the
+1st of July we had the pleasure of finding ourselves in 61° N.L., and
+of passing the entrance between Norway and the Shetland Isles. With
+that, the German Ocean was left behind and the open sea reached, which
+already made itself felt by the peculiar “Atlantic swell.” We now
+found ourselves in that part of the Atlantic known to Germans as the
+“Nordmeer.”</p>
+
+<p>For this first part of our voyage, which a ship with a fair wind would
+have made in about two days and a half, we had taken sixteen days. From
+the clear space before us we might now hope for greater progress, the
+more so,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> as the Norwegian coast here runs somewhat to the north-east,
+and we of course, even in a continuous north-west wind, could still
+make, on the starboard tack, some northward progress.</p>
+
+<p>On account of this continuous northerly wind, and the easterly-setting
+Gulf Stream, we came so near the Norwegian coast, that one evening we
+thought we could see it from the top. It was not until we reached the
+latitude of Drontheim that we were able to return to our north-westerly
+course.</p>
+
+<p>The darkness of the nights had in the meantime visibly diminished;
+and at midnight between the 1st and 2nd of July, when the sun left us
+at about a quarter past ten, lamplight on deck, even by the binnacle,
+was unnecessary. We could read the finest print comfortably. As a
+glance at the map will show, we were now in a neighbourhood frequented
+comparatively by few ships, except those going to the northern
+Norwegian harbours or visiting the Arctic region proper. Whilst in the
+North Sea, one or more sail might generally be seen on the horizon,
+or in the distance the smoke of a steamer. Now we found ourselves
+alone upon the broad surface, which to some offers only a picture of
+boundless void and lasting sameness, but in others excites a deep
+feeling of the might and sublimity of boundless Nature.</p>
+
+<p>Animal life, too, now prevailed to a remarkable degree, which is in
+a great measure, at least as far as birds are concerned, connected
+with the neighbourhood of land. The ship was surrounded nearly the
+whole day by the three-toed sea-gull (<i>Larus tridactylus</i>, L.) in
+flocks of from twenty to fifty, with the swiftness and lightness of
+wing peculiar to this small gull, following the ship<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span> with manifold
+unwearying windings and turnings, spying for prey in the dead-water,
+and then darting like lightning upon some little crab tossed in the
+current; or sitting sociably some short distance from the ship’s side
+upon the smooth or even strongly-heaving water, sunning themselves,
+trimming their plumage, or fishing. They also liked to whirl round
+the mast, accompanying the truck in all its waving to and fro, and
+sometimes settling upon it. If we mounted into the top, the birds were
+not at all shy, but hovered about with fluttering wings, apparently
+standing still, and from time to time shooting nearer to the observer,
+who might almost fancy that he could clasp them easily in his hand,
+thus having a good opportunity of observing this really handsome bird
+at his leisure. The round head, with the knowing dark eyes, turns
+backwards and forwards upon the short neck, the wings move in graceful
+lines, the small black feet are drawn tight under the tail. The whole
+under part of the bird is a pure white, whilst the upper part is bluish
+grey. But what strikes the eye the most is that the tips of the slender
+wings and the fan-shaped tail are jet black. In rather lighter black,
+differing according to the age and time of year, are marks on the head
+and neck, one in particular looking like a collar. In spite of all
+this outward beauty (in which property they are far surpassed by the
+ivory gull) there remains an ugly peculiarity common to this species,
+namely, their ever harsh and grating cry. In fair or foul weather, in
+slow and in swift flight, the sharp “ih, ih, ha, ha,” is ever heard
+without intermission and in every possible cadence. These are the same
+gulls that in northern neighbourhoods flock together in thousands, make
+their nests in the rocks, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> thus form the so-called “gull mountains”
+of which Fr. Boie, Faber, Brehm, and other travellers cannot relate
+enough. These creatures are, upon the whole, known to be very sociable
+and gentle, so their cry only expresses contentment and liveliness. Now
+and then, however, our attention would be aroused when those tones were
+quicker, more decided, and fell heavily on the ear. We naturally looked
+round for the cause, and saw three of them flying terror-stricken,
+followed by another bird with darker plumage, longer wings, and a
+quicker, stronger flight. It is the robber gull (<i>Lestris</i>); and
+now an odd spectacle is presented to our sight. One of our small gulls
+has just caught a little fish which, prompted by curiosity, had come
+to the surface, and flies hurriedly forward anxious to devour it. His
+plundering dark cousin, not far off, roving apparently purposeless
+above the waves, scarce has time to espy this, when he darts swiftly
+down, catches the flying gull, and sets upon it unmercifully, until
+bursting into this scream of terror, it opens its beak and lets the
+booty fall. The robber having now gained his end, quits the chase,
+and rushes after the falling fish which, with incredible agility, he
+catches half-way. In the next moment we see the bird again quietly
+circling above the waves as if nothing had happened, or sailing slowly
+in the distance, bent upon robbing other gulls of their hard-earned
+meal.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the gulls, we saw in stormy weather a small bird known to all
+sailors as the stormy petrel (<i>Thalassidroma pelagica</i>, L.). It
+is almost entirely dark brown, and is chiefly seen in violent stormy
+weather, when it seems to run unwearily on the water, seldom rising
+higher.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> To old sailors it is an unlucky bird; they believe that its
+appearance denotes storm, putting, as is usually the case, the cause
+for the effect. The old idea, from which they are called “Mother
+Carey’s Chickens,” is at least poetical.</p>
+
+<p>We chased the gulls but little; only once a calm sea rendered it
+possible to secure our booty, and this chance was very nearly the cause
+of a misfortune on board the Germania.</p>
+
+<p>It was the 4th of July about noon. Several gulls had been circling over
+the after part of the ship, followed with longing eyes by the doctor,
+who was far too ready to make a nearer inspection of one of them with
+his knife. Dr. Copeland caught up a gun, and soon one bird lost its
+life, and fell into the water close to the ship’s side. The men hurried
+forward to hook it out. This, however, failed, and the ship glided
+quietly onwards. To let down the boat would have taken too much time,
+as during the storm it had been lashed with several ropes. A sailor
+passing by, without thinking and certainly most rashly, wishing to
+pick up the floating bird, before any one thought or could prevent it,
+jumped dressed as he was into the water, and swam with well practised
+and strong arms towards it. In the meantime, the vessel glided onwards,
+and (as we now noticed) with great speed. This must soon have been
+apparent to our sailor, whose chest would be cramped by the low
+temperature of the water (47½° F.), so that he must soon have realized
+his critical position. He reached the goal, and then in a weak voice
+called for the boat. Meanwhile, Mr. Tramnitz had called together the
+rest of the watch, turned the ship’s head to the wind, and thrown out
+the life-buoy. Quickly two men climbed into the boat. Loosening the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>
+ropes was not to be thought of; they fell under the heavy gashes of an
+ever-ready knife; it rattled down; another cut or two and it was free,
+and flying under the strong and long drawn strokes. Those were long and
+fearful moments as we stood silently and with bated breath following
+with our eyes the little craft, and for the first time realizing how
+great the distance was.</p>
+
+<p>Would the attempt to save him prove successful? or would this act of
+youthful thoughtlessness be punished? No! we saw the boat reach its
+mark, we saw them rest on their oars, and one lean over; and now the
+drowning man is drawn in alive. Then the gull and the life-buoy had
+to be got in, and they pulled hurriedly back to the vessel. Like a
+drowned poodle the sinner soon stood once more amongst us, receiving as
+a reward a sound lecture from the captain, followed by a good draught
+of brandy. But the doctor took the <i>corpus delicti</i> (the gull) in
+hand. On this occasion we unfortunately lost a basket containing some
+fine flower bulbs, which had been given us by some friendly hand with
+the hope that, if successful, they might cheer our long Arctic winter
+with their blossom, and had been placed in the boat as being a dry airy
+position.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0430_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0430_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">“KILLER” DOLPHINS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>In the North Sea we had already seen some spouting dolphins; now they
+often came up close to us. In the beginning of July, they came so
+near, that our zoologist had the great satisfaction of taking an exact
+drawing of the back. It was the species well known to all sailors, the
+“Nordkaper” or “Killer” (<i>Delphinus orca</i>, Fabr.), one of the
+largest kind in the whale family, being sometimes twenty-five feet
+long. It is distinguished, and for the same reason easily recognized
+at a great distance, by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span> small, long, and sharp upright back-fin,
+which has also earned for it the name of “sword fish.” These enormous
+creatures come to the surface to take breath, and mostly move in
+zig-zag windings along the top of the water, so they may be seen from
+three to half-a-dozen times, though only the upper part of their
+shining black bodies. First the snout is to be seen, and from the
+“blow-hole” is forced the breath and spray; then the fins and the
+hinder parts of the back make their appearance. The tail is only to be
+seen when the creature dives under, when it is sometimes straight out
+of the water. The name “Nordkaper” by which our sailors call it, was
+received long ago, when it frequented the North Cape in droves. The
+Americans call it “Killer,” and the Norwegians “Whale-catcher,” from a
+circumstance which for a long time was considered a fable, but is now
+confirmed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> by the least prejudiced whalers of the present day, namely,
+that they are the whale’s greatest enemies, following and attacking it
+in large droves.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the “Nordkapers,” one day (the 10th of July), we observed
+another kind of dolphin, three or four of which played under our bows.
+They were quite brown, without any upright back-fin, having a thick
+head and steep forehead. It was a strange and fascinating sight to
+watch these boorish, uncouth cetacea of nearly fifteen feet long,
+playing in the water so peaceably and securely and yet so nimbly.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately the disturbing hand of man, in the attempt to make use
+of the breech-loader, startled these peaceful creatures. Before we
+were prepared for it shots were heard, and the dolphins hurriedly
+withdrew from the further observation of the “lords of the creation.”
+For the sake of the zoologist and his science, it was to be wished that
+such a creature should be killed and examined. But the Germania was
+wanting both in the apparatus and means for taking it, as well as in
+accommodation for working.</p>
+
+<p>We also saw, though only in the distance, the blowing of some rorquals.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile a number of soundings had been taken on the Hansa, which
+gave the following result: 1st of July, in 60° 45′ North lat. and 2°
+4′ 3″ East long., a depth of 65 fathoms, with stony ground, Norwegian
+granite; 7th of July, in 68° 18′ North lat. and 7° 14′ East long., 700
+fathoms, hard sand.</p>
+
+<p>A series of other soundings gave no decided result. The temperature of
+the sea was taken daily.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER II.<br>
+<span class="subhed">CONTINUED VOYAGE OF THE TWO SHIPS UNTIL REACHING
+ICE.<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> MIDDLE OF JULY.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Second meeting with the Hansa.—Neptune and the Arctic
+christening.—Entrance into the Arctic Sea.—Zoological
+matters.—Jan Mayen.—Nearing the ice.—Seals.—Separation of
+the vessels.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The 4th of July, Sunday, brought us a fine, clear morning: the wind
+died quite away; the sea, even in the far, far distance, was glossy and
+smooth. The sleeping sails swung to and fro with the gaffs; the gearing
+rattled; the ship swung without answering the helm; in short, it was
+that sort of calm so disagreeable to a sailor, and particularly so to
+us after our three weeks’ voyage. Every eye looked longingly for a
+rising breeze. In the course of the morning it rippled the surface with
+beautiful blue lines here and there, and then dropped again.</p>
+
+<p>The Hansa was far astern, and presently a dark spot appeared on the
+water in the distance. It scarcely moved; but the telescope showed us
+that it must be a boat. Perhaps a post from the Hansa! Now the mainsail
+was set, and then we knew for certain that it was Captain Hegemann’s
+fine whale-boat that was approaching. We lay to, and welcomed heartily
+on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span> board Messrs. Hegemann, Hildebrandt, Buchholz, and Laube. Engaged
+in an improvised hunting party, they were fortunate enough to bag some
+gulls. For the second time we all sat together in the cabin, confiding
+our hopes and plans to each other. Meanwhile, on the eastern horizon,
+there rose a well-known dark line; and soon a light, quick breeze
+filled the sails, and gave our ship steerage way. Slowly she began to
+move, and took a nor’-nor’-westerly course, direct to the island of Jan
+Mayen.</p>
+
+<p>The wind now blew stronger; the Hansa had already reached us, and thus
+a speedy end was put to our meeting. Our friends took leave and were
+soon on board their own ship.</p>
+
+<p>The next day it blew fresh from the E.N.E., so that we nearly always
+made two degrees N. as our day’s work, a highly desirable progress,
+which raised all our hopes afresh. Already, on the evening of the 5th
+of July, at fifty minutes past eleven, we had passed the Arctic circle
+(66° 33′), and that nearly under the meridian of Greenwich (0° 15′
+W.L.).</p>
+
+<p>A violent wind was blowing; and with a speed of nine knots we entered
+the Arctic Ocean, which was to be our quarters for a whole year. The
+Hansa was some miles in advance of us, and was the first to unfurl
+the North German flag; at the same time firing one gun. We followed.
+Conformably to the custom, as on crossing the equator, Neptune came
+on board to welcome us, and wish us success on our voyage; of course
+not without all those who had not yet crossed the Arctic circle having
+to undergo the rather rough shaving and christening customary on such
+occasions. The ceremony closed (as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> is usual on such occasions) with a
+good glass of wine, to wash away the evil effects of the cold water.</p>
+
+<p>With us, Peter Iversen and Peter Ellinger undertook the parts of
+Neptune and the barber, and carried out with great earnestness the
+soaping and the very mild christening. At the next meal in the cabin we
+were surprised by a poetical composition by Neptune.</p>
+
+<p>On board the Hansa the proceeding was carried out much more
+scrupulously. Neptune came on board with two followers, and addressed
+Captain Hegemann with the question, “Any green hands on board?” At the
+answer, “Yes,” there began a sharp examination of the “green ones,”
+Drs. Buchholz and Laube, as well as the sailors Max Schmidt and Konrad
+Gierke. Afterwards came the christening. Dr. Laube writes thus:—</p>
+
+<p>“We entered into the spirit of the fun willingly, knowing that our
+sailors were decent fellows, and would not carry things too far, even
+had we not entered on the ship’s books with them in Bremen, and become
+seamen. Our carpenter went about the whole day with a sly, laughing
+face, and towards evening had quite lost his usual chattiness. We
+ourselves kept in the cabin, so as not to witness the preparations.
+At midnight, we were called on deck. A gun was fired; and as its
+thunder died away we heard the well-known cry, ‘Ship ahoy!’ Three
+wonderful figures climbed over the bowsprit; Neptune first, in an
+Esquimaux’s dress, with a great white cotton beard, a seven-pronged
+dolphin harpoon for a trident in one hand, and a speaking-trumpet in
+the other. A tarpaulin was spread on the quarter-deck, and a stool
+placed upon it. It looked like a judge’s bench. Here each of us was
+seated with eyes bound, while the masked followers of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span> the northern
+Ruler went through the customary proceedings. I was soaped and shaved;
+god Neptune was most favourable to me; he knows what good cigars are,
+and has great respect for those to whom they belong. Then came the
+christening, which in this case was not applied to the head (as is
+usual), but to the throat and stomach. Neptune put some questions to me
+through his speaking-trumpet, desiring me to answer. I saw his object,
+answered with a short ‘Yes,’ and then closed my lips. The mischievous
+waterfall rattled over me, causing universal merriment. They then
+took the bandage from my eyes, that I might see my handsome face in
+the glass; but instead of a looking-glass, it was the combing of the
+wooden hatchway, which with great gravity was held before my face by
+the barber’s assistant. I was now absolved, and could laugh with the
+others, whilst seeing my comrades obliged to go through the same course
+one after the other.”</p>
+
+<p>Universal grog on board both ships brought the time-honoured and merry
+ceremony to a close.</p>
+
+<p>But with ever-growing impatience did we now long for a nearer
+acquaintance with the ice. As we before mentioned, the favourable wind
+first met us outside the Arctic circle. Later on it blew more faintly,
+though, on the whole, keeping in the good quarter from the east, so
+that on the morning of the 9th of July we came in sight of the island
+of Jan Mayen.</p>
+
+<p>The midnight hours had now grown visibly lighter; even in the cabin
+we no longer wanted a lamp; at twelve o’clock at night we could read
+and write without difficulty. The very first night we reached the
+latitude in which it was possible to be seen, we were allowed to enjoy
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span> wonderful sight of the midnight sun. The thick clouds, which the
+whole day had covered the heavens, drew somewhat together towards the
+north just at that time; and over the edge of the endless sea, hovered
+the sun, like a red ball, visible almost in its entire circumference,
+surrounded by gold and purple-violet clouds. But unfortunately this
+majestic spectacle was of short duration; the cloudy curtain closed
+again, and we had to wait many weeks before we again saw the midnight
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>The temperature of the air fell steadily. From the 6th to the 7th
+of July there was a sudden fall, as shown by our table of daily
+temperatures.</p>
+
+<p>This was accompanied, on the 7th of July, by <i>snow</i>, and on the
+8th the <i>fog</i> began its rule of terror, from which we suffered,
+except at short intervals, for four weeks, that is, until we landed.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+
+<p>The swarms of birds were countless, and at a glance we could see that
+those frequenting the icy sea were quite different from any other
+sorts. There were the well-known Auk,<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> and other aquatic species of
+various genera.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> But there was no possibility of exactly knowing
+each kind, as we did not succeed in bringing any down; and only seeing
+them in the distance in their hurried flight and the dim atmosphere,
+they were very difficult to distinguish. They generally flew from two
+to four together; sometimes one would strike out with a short flap of
+the wings, and fly at a uniform height over the smooth water,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span> when,
+according to its uniform custom, it would circle two or three times
+at some distance round the ship, and either settle down once more, or
+totally disappear. Besides these, we frequently saw the grey petrel
+(<i>Procellaria glacialis</i>, L.), which until that time had been
+rare. They strike the observer at once by their long, grey, straight
+wings hovering almost motionless over the water. Like all northern
+travellers, we soon learnt to know among the ice the peculiar bird
+called the Mallemock.</p>
+
+<p>With the crossing of the Arctic circle we found ourselves in our own
+broad field of action; for if our chief task was to follow the coast of
+East Greenland as far as possible to the north, our expedition was also
+one of general knowledge, and therefore the exploring of the whole of
+the North Arctic region was incumbent upon us. So that, although still
+far from the ice, regular, and, when possible, searching investigation
+was made, not the ordinary observations on board ship, regarding
+the direction of the wind, barometrical pressure, and so forth, but
+inquiries into subjects relating to the physical geography of the
+sea. The temperature of the surface water, as during the whole of the
+voyage, was taken every two hours, and that of greater depths, ever
+since the 1st of July (61° N.L.), four times every day. In connexion
+with this Drs. Börgen and Copeland began a series of experiments
+relating to the quantity of salt contained in the surface water and in
+the depths. Notice was also taken of the colour of the sea, as well
+as of the wood met with. Soundings were taken every six hours, and
+everything brought up by the apparatus was carefully preserved.</p>
+
+<p>These observations were of no small interest, as we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> were in that part
+of the somewhat changing boundary where the warm (so called) Gulf
+Stream coming up from the south and the cold Arctic current coming
+down from the north just meet. This Gulf Stream is known not only by
+its relative warmth, but by the greater saltness and deep blue colour
+of its waters. The beautiful blueness of the sea struck us as soon as
+we left the North Sea. But from this time until we reached the ice the
+colours changed continually, and sometimes very quickly, from dirty
+blue, light blue, greenish blue, bluish green, clear and transparent
+green, greyish green, and so on, so that our attempts at representing
+a series of these colours became a failure.<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> Sharp limits between
+green and blue water, such as have been often observed, not only in the
+Atlantic but also in the Arctic Ocean, we never met with.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> As regards
+temperature, the blue water certainly was the warmest; but even here
+sudden and considerable differences were almost imperceptible.</p>
+
+<p>With our advance towards the north-west the warmth of the water
+gradually decreased. Exactly corresponding to the isotherm for May,
+which we found in 1868, we registered on the 6th of July at noon 42.12°
+Fahr., and the next day, at the same time, it was already two degrees
+lower. On the other hand we first found the temperature at zero, or
+below zero, in the neighbourhood of the ice, whilst in May, 1868, it
+was as low as that at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> 200 (nautical) miles distant from it. As regards
+the observations made on the true currents,<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> as well as on the
+aræometrical reading of the quantity of salt held in solution in them,
+it is not our province to enter upon their discussion here. Regarding
+the former, however, we soon had lively witnesses in the shape of
+drift-wood, small pieces of which passed us on the evening of the 6th
+of July; and two days later we saw a large knotted tree; but on the
+high sea it was impossible to make ourselves masters of it.</p>
+
+<p>In order to gain more exact information regarding the surface-currents,
+it has long been the custom to throw out a corked bottle containing
+a piece of paper, on which is written the exact time and place of
+immersion. If a seaman sees this bottle in the water, he picks it
+up, noticing the time and place, and forwards the paper to the place
+mentioned. With this view we threw out bottles from time to time.</p>
+
+<p>The soundings, from the period of our leaving the remarkable
+shallowness of the North Sea, showed a tolerably uniform descent in the
+bottom of the sea as far as the island of Jan Mayen, and farther on to
+the borders of the ice. From eighty fathoms it went on to 180 and 270
+(2nd July), 406 fathoms (3rd July), 569 on the 4th, and 1066 fathoms on
+the 7th of July.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst the Physicists were thus making a commencement of their labours,
+and the crew were pretty well occupied with soundings, the Zoologists
+found many opportunities for collecting and observing. From the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> bird
+world they were compelled now to descend to lower creatures; and if
+unfavourable circumstances did not allow them to use the drag-net
+to bring subjects from the depths of the sea, still much that was
+interesting was to be found on the surface. Dr. Pansch constructed a
+bag-shaped net out of some gauze, and through the circular opening
+passed two long, narrow boards, so that when put into the water, one
+half was under and one above; this net was fastened to the hind part
+of the ship on the leeside, and as we sailed slowly forwards, took in
+every creature lying on the surface. In this manner the calm nights
+of the 7th and 8th brought us a rich booty; there were the <i>Calanus
+hyperboræus</i>, small tender creatures with white transparent bodies,
+articulated red-tipped tails, and long, fine, beautiful red feelers,
+with which they jerked themselves forward. Next came a number of small
+yellow red-spotted crabs (<i>Themisto libellula</i>, Mandt) with great
+oval-shaped black eyes, which like the rest of its family, as we had
+already seen, lay upon their side and swam along the surface in search
+of food.</p>
+
+<p>The low side and bulwarks of our vessel made it easy, if we saw a
+large creature of any kind, to catch it with a long pole-net. The
+brown-violet fibrous medusæ (<i>Cyanea capillata</i>, L.), which
+we had often seen in the North Sea, seemed entirely wanting here.
+Nevertheless, zoological work in the open air was now decidedly
+disagreeable. For if it was tolerably warm in the evening, towards
+morning, particularly when a damp fog and cold wind got up, and the
+warming influence of the evening meal had long since disappeared, it
+was painfully cold; but just the night-time was best for catching. And
+even<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> with spirits and water we could only work when, sailor fashion,
+we constantly beat our arms across our breast. Still more difficult is
+it to skin birds, seek for entozoa and such like, work which cannot
+always be carried on in the cabin, but which makes little progress with
+cold, stiff fingers.</p>
+
+<p>As already mentioned, we sighted the island of Jan Mayen on the 9th
+of July. The Hansa passed it at about one and a half German miles to
+the eastward. Had the weather been clear, we should long since have
+been able to see the highest point of the island, the Beerenberg. The
+atmosphere was, however, heavy and gloomy, and was as little inclined
+to grant the beautiful sight to us as it is to other sailors. Just at
+dawn we caught a glimpse of streaks of glaciers; the knowledge that
+land, and that of so interesting a nature, was so near, caused great
+excitement amongst the scientific part of the community; and it was
+no wonder that, after such long inaction and crossing of our wishes,
+the question of attempting a landing on Jan Mayen was more eagerly
+discussed than ever. But, even if, setting aside the strict letter of
+our instructions, we had consented to this interesting attempt, the
+ever-thickening fog and the windward sea-roll on the eastern side of
+the island would have rendered it impossible; and on the western side
+it would only have been possible with great loss of time. Meanwhile, we
+kept near to land, that we might at least have a view of its wonders
+as long as possible. At last, just before breakfast, our expectations
+seemed likely to be fulfilled; the fog lifted a little, and at some
+miles’ distance we saw a tolerable stretch of broken, rocky and rugged
+coast. It must have been the north-east<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span> side of the island, that is,
+the foot of the Beerenberg, dark rocks interspersed with long stripes
+of glacier ice reaching to the water. But the whole was indistinct and
+misty, so that the general appearance had somewhat of a weird look
+about it. All hurried on deck, trying to put the wondrous picture on
+paper; but there was scarcely time for that; the impervious veil of fog
+covered it once more, and that so thick that we had no hope of another
+glimpse.<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> Unsatisfied and disappointed, we eat our breakfast,
+picturing to ourselves how delightful a bright, sunny day must be on
+Jan Mayen. We read the accounts given by previous travellers, and found
+for our consolation that this island had almost always been seen under
+disadvantageous circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>According to a Dutchman of that name who discovered it in the year
+1611, the island of Jan Mayen lies lonely in the middle of the wide,
+deep sea between Norway and Greenland, Iceland and Spitzbergen; and is
+distant about sixty geographical miles from the coast of Greenland.
+It is nine miles in length and one in breadth, and so thoroughly
+mountainous, mostly with rugged rocks reaching down to the sea, that it
+has really only at two spots a flat beach and so-called landing-places.
+The north-east part rises to a height of 6863 feet, in the lofty
+Beerenberg, which has a large crater, and indeed the whole island is of
+volcanic origin. In the year 1732, Burgomaster Anderson, of Hamburg,
+reported a decided<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> eruption from a small side crater, which had been
+observed by a seaman; and in the year 1818, Scoresby and another
+captain saw great pillars of smoke rising from the same place.</p>
+
+<p>Surrounded by floating ice the whole winter through, and often for a
+longer period, Jan Mayen lies in the spring-time and early summer so
+near the edge of the ice-fields, that from 1612 to 1640 it afforded to
+the English and Dutch whale-fishers a comfortable and much sought after
+station for their booty and train-oil preparation. It is said that a
+single ship, in one year, then brought home from Jan Mayen 196,000
+gallons of oil.</p>
+
+<p>Wishing to make an attempt at colonizing, in 1633–34 seven Dutch
+sailors passed the winter here.</p>
+
+<p>“The small community outlived the severity of the winter without much
+danger to their lives, until the scurvy broke out amongst them; and as
+they could not procure the necessary fresh nourishment, the sickness
+made rapid strides. The first died on the 16th of April; and all the
+others shared the same fate one month later. Their diary ended with
+the 30th. When, on the 4th of June, the Dutch fleet appeared off the
+island, they were all found dead in their huts.”<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p>
+
+<p>Scoresby visited the island in August, 1817, and gave the first
+reliable account of it. The interest excited by this account led to
+two other visits. Lord Dufferin landed on the north side of Jan Mayen
+in 1856, but what with fog and floating ice, could only stay one hour.
+More good fortune and success attended that in 1861,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> undertaken by
+Dr. Berna, of Frankfort, and described by Karl Vogt as one of those
+interested in the “Arctic Expedition.” He succeeded in landing at two
+places, and the weather allowed of two days’ interesting investigation;
+then the fog returned, and they were obliged to set sail.</p>
+
+<p>The same envious fog made our landing impossible in 1869, and the
+strong rising sea-breeze and the high sea rendered it unadvisable
+to go too near the land. We tacked, therefore, and sailed in an
+east-south-easterly direction from it, so as to go round the east side
+of the island, and at midnight resume our northerly course. The fog
+was continually getting thicker, so that our two ships could scarcely
+see each other; and in order to keep together at all were obliged to
+use the horn. A fine rain fell at the same time, and it was about 2½
+degrees warmer, though, on the whole, most disagreeable weather. We
+could now thoroughly enjoy the Arctic fog “as pictured in books,”
+and we felt the perfect truth and the full meaning of the excellent
+descriptions given of it.</p>
+
+<p>We thought of the “sea-lungs” of Pytheas, that impenetrable mixture
+encountered beyond Thule, which is neither land, nor sea, nor
+atmosphere; of that bit of Horace,—</p>
+
+  <div class="poetry-container">
+   <div class="poetry">
+      <div class="stanza">
+        <div class="ileft">“Quod latus mundi nebula malusque</div>
+        <div>Jupiter urget.”</div>
+      </div>
+    </div>
+  </div>
+
+<p>We thought of the troublous gloominess with which the northern legends
+enveloped the unknown ice region; and indeed began to believe in the
+influence which a long sojourn in such a climate would have upon mind
+and body.</p>
+
+<p>Indeed, there can be nothing more melancholy than this everlasting grey
+veil; even the sea, as far as one can<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> see, is sad and grey. An auk
+or a diver, now and again flying before the ship, is the only thing
+presented to the wandering eye. Occasionally the gloom lightens so
+much, that one can just make out where the sun is; but it is seldom
+so far visible as to afford us an observation for latitude, or the
+sight of a fogbow: but every hope of a change which might rise at
+such a moment was at once destroyed by fresh mist rolling up thicker
+than ever. One glance over the different diaries at this particular
+time will best show the depressing influence of such continual foggy
+weather. As in the North Sea over the constant north wind, so here over
+the new enemy, the everlasting complaint was,—“Fog! thick fog!” And
+if it would stop at that! But now the small vesicles condense and fall
+first like fine spray, and then like a heavy shower, though without
+bringing any relief from the fog. The sails flap, the running-gear
+droops; and, added to this, is a fresh cold breeze, with the ship
+swinging to and fro. At such a time every one appears on deck in the
+excellent oilskin clothes, with high boots and serviceable sou’westers.
+With wide and cautious steps, we walk up and down on the ever wet and
+slippery deck, our eyes, as if open sea lay before us, constantly
+sweeping the horizon and turning doubly disappointed away. The sight
+of the swaying masts and the rustle of the untiring wavelets against
+the ship’s side, at length bring the comfortless impression of all
+surroundings to rest. The mind turns inwards upon itself; and amidst
+all the thoughts of the serious and yet eagerly looked-for future, the
+remembrance of the past and home stand vividly before us. We think of
+the last time we were on land, of that wonderfully beautiful and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> warm
+summer day at Eutin, with all the brightness of the rose-blossom and
+the song of the nightingale. We see ourselves once more united with our
+loved ones at home, and, flying from the heat of the day, wandering in
+the high arched forest, or in familiar conversation enjoying the peace
+and quiet of the garden. We see the stars twinkling in the heavens,
+and the dark red moon rise over the distant woods—when a heavy wave
+strikes us, sending the ship on to its side. We are pitched heavily
+against the boat, the cold water splashes in our faces, and rushes in
+a torrent over the deck and over our feet. The beautiful dream of the
+pleasant summer is over, and the cold reality of an Arctic, foggy day
+resumes its sway. With perhaps an unheard sigh, but in every case a
+smiling face, we shake off the water and continue our walk. We know
+that very soon we shall have much greater trials to bear.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the regular aræometrical readings of the water, and the constant
+zoological work, there was little to gain outside in the way of
+knowledge. We therefore tried to make it as comfortable as possible
+below, which was certainly not easy, for even here the wet penetrates
+and is brought down with boots and clothes; so that the air is often
+heavy and damp. With the near prospect of the all-absorbing work on
+the ice and also on land before us, we once more looked up all our
+things,—instruments, and so on,—and put them in order, filling up
+the rest of the time with reading, studying, and playing. We studied
+Scoresby’s works, read the Swedish Expedition, or Lindeman’s “Arctic
+Fisheries of the German Sea-port Towns,” or turned over the leaves
+of Kane’s and Parry’s standard works. When comfortably seated at the
+chess-board, or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> at a rubber of whist, or engaged in a sharp argument,
+we now began to feel quite at home. We were accustomed to the cabin,
+and had learnt to know each other better. We found that it was not so
+difficult to live in such a confined space in peace and quietness,
+if we only to some extent considered each other and learned to take
+quietly such disagreeables as would naturally turn up.</p>
+
+<p>And they soon did turn up. Our store of water had already greatly
+decreased, and we were obliged to submit to great restrictions. We
+could only have one glassful daily to wash in, but as compensation we
+found on deck a fresh-drawn bucket of salt water. As it had become
+somewhat muddy in the tanks, our filter stood us in good stead. The
+rye-bread had already disappeared on the 8th of July, but we still had
+a store of potatoes.</p>
+
+<p>Since the midnight of the 9th to the 10th of July, we had sailed with
+a fresh easterly breeze direct for the ice, and early in the morning
+had already lost sight of the Hansa; the fog-horn no longer found
+an echo. Presently with the wind from the distance there rolled the
+thunder of a cannon-shot; a second followed, and we joyfully returned
+the greeting of the sister-ship. At noon we fired again, and received
+no answer; we were for the time separated from the Hansa. The following
+five days brought no change in the weather; day after day passed with
+the interesting variations of—fog, thicker fog, thickest fog. The
+temperature was about 36° Fahr.; only once rose to 39½°, and fell to
+33.80°. The only comfort was that no obstacle stopped our progress, as
+on the open sea the ship can find her way with the help of the compass
+in the darkest night as easily as in broad daylight. A collision was
+not to be feared here, so we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span> had no feeling of insecurity, as one has
+in a thick fog near land.</p>
+
+<p>The bird world did not change much; the stormy petrel, however,
+preponderated. On the other hand, we saw far more frequently a
+creature peculiar to the Arctic regions, the Greenland seal (<i>Phoca
+Grönlandica</i>, Müll.). They stretched their black, flat heads out of
+the water with great curiosity, but immediately disappeared, setting at
+defiance every attempt to reach them with the deadly shot.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance of these seals reminded us that we were now in the
+neighbourhood of the seal-catchers, that is, in that part of the
+northern icy sea where, from the end of March to the end of April, the
+seals come in thousands to the smooth floating ice to cast their young
+ones. These “seal-coasts” change their position somewhat every year,
+and range between 68° and 74° N. Lat. and from 2° to 16° W. Long. It is
+a highly interesting sight to see the seals assembled from all quarters
+at this time. It is said that they not only come from the coasts of
+Spitzbergen and Greenland, but even swim in flocks from Nova Zembla.
+The whitish-coloured young stay on the ice the first few days, and are
+then killed with clubs by the parties of seal-hunters. The skin with
+its underlying fat is brought on board. The skin and fat of a young
+seal are worth from 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 9<i>s.</i>; besides which
+they catch many old seals. The number caught by a single Bremen ship
+now sometimes amounts to from 8 to 10,000 seals; and one may form some
+idea of the war of destruction waged against these harmless creatures
+by man, when we hear that of European ships in 1868, five German, five
+Danish, fifteen Norwegian, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span> twenty-two British, which were in
+company in West Greenland, obtained 237,000. On the “Jan Mayen ice”
+besides the Greenland seal there is another kind found, called the
+crested seal (<i>Cystophora cristata</i>, Nilss.), seldom the bearded
+seal (<i>Phoca barbata</i>, Müll.) only.</p>
+
+<p>The expected meeting with the ice necessitated a peculiar provision
+on the ship, the “crow’s-nest,” so as to have a clear and commanding
+prospect over the labyrinth of flakes and floes, and to enable us to
+steer through all, and when possible find the best road, as the range
+of sight over the water from the deck was no longer sufficient. The
+commander, therefore, has to look for the highest possible steady
+stand-point, and this is easily found in the “top” of the masts, to
+which the shrouds give easy access. A long sojourn in this airy region
+is not very agreeable at any time; one must be careful to protect
+the body somewhat against the wind, and this object is attained by
+a suitably formed barrel. A good telescope is hung constantly up
+here, and a little straw is placed at the bottom. This necessary
+“crow’s-nest,” already well known from Scoresby’s and the late Swedish
+expeditions, was on the 12th, with much merriment and many good and
+bad jokes called forth by its peculiar appellation, hoisted up the
+mainmast, and fastened by the carpenter to the crosstrees, between the
+top and the top-shrouds.</p>
+
+<p>The view attained by this means at a height of thirty-eight feet, gave
+us the survey over a circle the radius of which was seven and a quarter
+nautical miles.</p>
+
+<p>About eleven at night in the thick fog an unusually white spot was
+seen, and this we discovered to be the first piece of ice. At the so
+long looked-for announcement<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> of “Ice!” every one was on deck, and
+hurrying to the fore. Every eye rested with interest on the small
+rocking scrap which was at the most quite an isolated, far-washed
+piece. With intense attention and impatience, during the night and
+following day (the 13th), the sailors were to be seen on the watch, and
+from time to time the cap of one of the inmates of the cabin diving
+into the thick fog; but gaily as we advanced, no ice appeared!</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th, there was a calm the whole day, so we went about in
+the boat fishing up the drift-wood, hunting the gulls and sketching
+them. Sometimes it brightened, and we could see a little farther; but
+still no trace of the Hansa. But we had another intimation of the
+nearness of the ice. We could see in the west or north-west over the
+horizon, a white or yellowish glistening, which must spring from the
+ice, and which is known as the “Ice-sky,” yet essentially differing
+from the “Ice-blink.” Besides this, we saw the ivory gull (<i>Larus
+eburneus</i>), a bird never found far from the ice.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER III.<br>
+<span class="subhed">TO THE SEPARATION OF THE SHIPS ON THE 20TH JULY.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">The ice in the Arctic Ocean, particularly off East
+Greenland.—The border of the ice reached on the 15th of
+July.—Further voyage of the Germania.—Position and nature of
+the ice.—Arctic birds.—Meeting of the vessels once more.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The Polar circle is termed the boundary of the Arctic or Northern Icy
+Sea. For that term there is a physical reason, as at every spot within
+this circle the sun does not rise in winter for a certain number of
+days together, and its influence being thus so circumscribed, the
+“everlasting” ice is enabled to form. But the Polar circle is the
+boundary also in a geographical point of view, as it cuts directly
+through Behring’s Straits, and the narrowest part of Davis’s Straits,
+besides stretching over both the old and the new worlds, so that the
+whole of the enclosed (so-called) Polar basin is contained within it.
+This has but one broad approach, and that lies between Scandinavia and
+Greenland. Here the Polar circle is least satisfactory as a boundary;
+for here, as in every case in which the shackles of art are imposed
+upon nature, the arbitrary line is overstepped by the irregularities
+of nature, and nowhere more so than in the present case. From the west
+coast of Norway to far beyond the North Cape rush the waves of the
+Atlantic, which are never covered with ice;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> while on the east coast of
+Greenland, down to its most southerly point, presses from one year’s
+end to another a powerful mass of heavy ice. The boundary of the icy
+sea (as a sea covered with ice) may now upon the whole be settled by a
+line drawn from Cape Farewell to Iceland, from thence to Spitzbergen,
+and lastly to Nova Zembla. The cause of this appearance lies really
+in the existence of two important sea-currents. From the coast of
+Norway up to Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla stretches the north-easterly
+branch of the Gulf Stream, driving back all floating ice, and from the
+comparative warmth of its waters conducing to the melting of the same
+all along the ice boundary.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, on the east coast of Greenland runs the Polar
+current in a south-westerly direction to a great distance, carrying
+with it the heavy ice formed in the extreme north, and picking up on
+its way all the younger ice frozen during the winter; while, from
+the coldness of its waters, it prevents the melting of the same in
+a remarkable degree. Thus it is explained how from Davis’ Straits
+also must flow towards the south just such another cold, ice-burdened
+stream, and how on the voyage from Germany to New York are often seen
+one or more drifting pieces of ice, or even icebergs. This Greenland
+ice-current forms the main outlet for the removal of the Polar ice, and
+we may very reasonably liken it to a floating glacier whose farthest
+domain is the Polar basin.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the nature of the ice in this Polar current, the following
+preliminary remarks may throw some light. At the beginning of the
+current, in the same latitude as Spitzbergen, and much nearer to the
+coast, as far down<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> as Iceland, the largest fields of ice are to be
+found; tracts of enormous extent and sometimes more than fifty feet
+in thickness. Between these, and originating from them in the course
+of time, by their breaking up, are smaller fields called ice-floes;
+and these, increased by thawing, by the surrounding driving and
+pressing, as well as by the waves, break up in small pieces, the real
+hummocks which prevail at the eastern boundary of the current, at the
+“ice-line,” as well as at the most southerly end. As a last remains of
+the disturbing process, huge hummocks float about, or cover the broken
+ice or the wide expanse of sea with small brashes. Real icebergs seem
+almost peculiar to the southern part of the coasts; such an iceberg is
+not formed in the sea, but is a broken piece of glacier moving with its
+lower part in the sea, and from which at different times large pieces
+have been broken off by the pressure of the water, and carried onward
+by the current.</p>
+
+<p>The breadth of this ice-current, and also the position of the ice-line
+is, as may be imagined, very different at different times of the year.
+Whilst in spring-time it runs about the middle of Iceland past Jan
+Mayen to the southern point of Spitzbergen, in summer it retreats
+nearer to the coast, and stretches somewhat in the direction of the
+west-end of Iceland to the north of Spitzbergen. Some pieces of ice,
+under peculiar circumstances, naturally float very far from this
+boundary towards the south-east; sometimes even reaching the Faroes.</p>
+
+<p>But even at corresponding times of the year, the ice-line may occupy
+very different positions; much depending upon the compactness of the
+labyrinth of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> fields, floes, and drifts, and also of the prevailing
+winds.</p>
+
+<p>As all ice rises out of the water, and from its irregular form offers
+to the wind an easy object of attack, so it is often drawn from the
+course of the water-current by a strong air-current, and either hurried
+onward or retarded in its progress. An easterly and south-easterly
+wind must drive the ice westward, and press the masses closer than
+ever; whilst a westerly and north-westerly wind drives the icy dominion
+farther eastward, dividing the masses, and thereby rendering the
+ice-stream more navigable.</p>
+
+<p>This ice-current, or ice-zone, in the outer part of which the
+whale-fishers mostly catch their prey, was what we were now about to
+sail across. That this task was certainly not so easy and simple as
+many think who have not seen for themselves, we knew from experience
+in the yacht “Greenland” in 1868. This time our steam power gave us
+greater hope. If we could only reach the vicinity of land we thought
+that in the much-talked-of “Land-water” we should at least be able to
+move with ease, and thereby obtain good results.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th of July we reached the ice-line. After a foggy day a light
+southerly breeze got up, the sails filled, the ship answered the helm
+once more, and we moved in a north-westerly course between small floes
+and brashes. A practised ear might now notice a peculiar distant roar,
+which seemed to come nearer by degrees. It was the sea surging against
+the still hidden ice. However unwelcome and equivocal this surging
+might sound to the ears of sailors far from any harbour (and it has
+a wonderfully paralyzing effect as one approaches), to-day it was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span>
+listened to with unmistakable pleasure. The object of our longing is
+then at last reached, and if the ice should prove a blockade to us, we
+could at least remain comfortably in the Germania in its neighbourhood
+to inspect it.</p>
+
+<p>Nearer and nearer comes the rushing noise. Every man is on deck; when,
+as with the touch of a magic wand, the mist divides, and a few hundred
+yards before us lies the ice, in long lines like a deep indented rocky
+coast, with walls glittering blue in the sun, and the foam of the waves
+mounting high, with the top covered with blinding white snow. The eyes
+of all rested with amazement on this grand panorama: it was a glorious
+but a serious moment, stirred as we were by new thoughts and feelings,
+by hopes and doubts, by bold and far-reaching expectations.</p>
+
+<p>The mist closed again almost immediately; but this short moment and a
+glimpse from the crow’s-nest sufficed to show us the absolute thickness
+of the masses of ice. Here, even had it been our intention, we could
+never have broken through, and if any of us had formed a mistaken idea
+of ice-navigation, this must prove to the most inexperienced that such
+an obstacle could neither be overcome by the most powerful ironclad
+ship, nor by gunpowder. Our duty bade us first seek the Hansa in 75°
+N.L.; but, besides the fact that an easterly wind had been blowing for
+some days, making it anything but a favourable moment for forcing the
+icy range, it became necessary to wait another opportunity for making
+an energetic attempt.</p>
+
+<p>The spot where the Germania struck the ice was in 74° 47′ N. Lat., and
+11° 50′ W. Long., and the edge<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> stretched almost due north and south.
+The Hansa reached the ice-line the same day in 74° 57′ N. Lat., and
+9° 41′ W. Long. The log-book of the Germania says, “Heard the rushing
+of the water against the ice, but unfortunately could see nothing on
+account of the fog. Temperature of the sea’s surface 32° Fahr., a
+sure sign that we were near the ice; tacked therefore, and ran with
+a south-westerly wind some miles to the north-west, until the floes
+became so dense that we were obliged to turn. Steered in the fog along
+the ice northward. At four in the afternoon a point was passed, from
+which the line seemed to stretch more westward. Accordingly we sailed
+in that direction, and about seven came again to compact ice, which
+obliged us to turn and lie to. The fog was now so dense that we could
+only make out the pieces nearest to us. To judge by the breakers, the
+ice here stretched again to the north. On the morning of the 16th of
+July, the atmosphere lightened a little; when we set all sail and
+made for the ice, which was soon in sight. Towards the north and
+north-north-east lay a long chain of closely packed pieces; to the west
+and north-west opened a large bay, into which we sailed, that we might
+inspect nearer the position of the ice. By eleven we reached what was
+to all appearance the end of this bay, namely, a chain of drift ice,
+behind which, to westward, some open water showed itself, surrounded
+with ice. As it was not our intention to make any serious attempt to
+advance until we fell in with the Hansa, once more we lay to, in order
+to wait for clearer weather.” The first excitement and restlessness had
+by this time subsided, and we could observe surrounding nature more
+at our leisure. When<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span> the mist shifted a little, the view from the
+crow’s-nest was very beautiful; first the icy boundary, and then behind
+the endless labyrinth of floes. One was also able exactly to trace how
+the light and dark parts of the clouds lying over the horizon, as well
+as the light and dark stripes in them, reflected a true picture of the
+ice on the sea, and to study attentively this important appearance
+known as the “Ice and water sky.”</p>
+
+<p>The chase brought us a new bird to-day, a handsome black guillemot
+(<i>Uria grylle</i>, L.), with its greenish shining plumage; the white
+band on its wings, and the red beak and wings looked wonderfully
+pretty. Our interest was, however, more aroused by a young crested
+seal which was killed in the night (<i>Cystophora cristata</i>),
+with shining black back, and whitish yellow belly. Of the peculiar
+blistery formation on the nose, from which they take their name, and
+which characterizes the grown-up male, there was yet no sign: but the
+creature was unmistakable from the form of its head; the well-defined
+snout of the common seals had entirely disappeared; but the strongest
+zoological mark lay in the teeth. We filled a wine-barrel half full of
+its fat, and the rest fell into the hands of the zoologist.</p>
+
+<p>On the 17th we cruised about in the thick fog with a south-westerly
+breeze. We had no sooner tacked than we came upon ice, and were obliged
+to tack once more. It seemed as if we lay in a bay, surrounded by
+floating ice. At the same time many small loose floes were drifting
+around us, and were covered on the surface with the decomposing ice
+like white snow. We took up some shovelsful to melt, with a view to
+renewing our store of water. The mischievous fog played us many a trick
+in our tacking backwards and forwards.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> It is almost incredible how
+much larger the ice-floes appear in the fog. We seem, for instance,
+to be driving at a hill, forty-five to fifty feet high; and when we
+arrive there, it is a small floe with a hummock of about ten feet! This
+delusion we had subsequently often to experience, though at first it
+afforded us great ground for amusement. The ice had in the thick fog
+something altogether spectral and gloomy in appearance; but as to real
+danger to the ship in this floating ice, where there are no icebergs,
+there is none, except in a heavy sea, with storms or calm. Towards
+evening the ice pressed closer and closer around, so that to prevent
+ourselves being enclosed, we had to keep more eastward. At two in the
+morning we broke through the current, that is the outer chain of floes,
+and saw at once by the windward roll that we were once more in the open
+sea, where we had to lie by in expectation of better weather.</p>
+
+<p>The floes lay so thick at the border, that with the faint breeze the
+ship could not get through, and for the first time we had to employ the
+long ice-hooks to push aside those lying directly under our bow, or
+when very large, to work the ship round them. It was a most agreeable
+night; and as it was the first time that the ship, in the true sense
+of the word, had really come in contact with the ice, all on deck
+willingly took a hand in the work and made it a pleasure to get rid of
+the obstinate companions that impeded the progress of our Germania.
+Here we had the best opportunity of studying the configuration of
+the floes somewhat more nearly. They were mostly flat, and of the
+most varied form. We could see at once, that warmth, air, sun, and
+wave-friction had been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> at work upon them for some time past. From the
+rushing of the water the edges were rounded and hollowed; they ranged
+from four to twelve inches out of the water, whilst the mass under the
+water was about four times as great. On the surface, as we have already
+mentioned, they were covered with the melting ice like snow some inches
+high; and on the larger ones small pools of water were found, which
+generally make their appearance about the beginning of July, and about
+the beginning of August are again covered with a crust of ice. Remove
+the snow and we come once more to the glistening blue ice. Between the
+floes are hummocks, miniature mountains so to speak, which rise in
+various forms, now elegant, now bold, and from the crevices and shaded
+plains shed the most beautiful blue light. This blue changes sometimes
+to a green; indeed, one is often surprised to see a most lovely emerald
+green. Taking also into consideration that this almost always quiet
+water reflects the clearest pictures, one can imagine how great a
+charm this ice scenery must have for a novice. But it is not only the
+beautiful and majestic which has such an effect, but all sorts of
+fantastic shapes which delight the beholder by their wonderful variety.
+For instance, the small or large ice-blocks, from melting and the
+washing of the water, frequently assume the most peculiar forms. Here
+rides a stately swan, there an eagle spreads its mighty wings; here a
+staring seal stretches its head out of the water, and there stands an
+elegant marble table.</p>
+
+<p>At home, when wishing to picture such things out of the clouds, or
+the ice-trees on the windows, one must exercise a certain amount
+of imagination; here they are forced<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> upon the least enthusiastic
+observer, and we could not help giving our unqualified assent to
+Scoresby’s description, which until then we had thought a little
+exaggerated. “Arctic birds” (so it runs in the Hansa’s Journal at
+this time) “such as the stormy petrel, gulls, robber-gulls, auks,
+and puffins surrounded the ship. For want of something else to do,
+we caught a number of them by angling, and then gave them their
+liberty after fastening a small piece of metal to them by a silken
+band with the name Hansa and the latitude (73° N.) engraved upon it.
+<i>Procellaria glacialis</i> were swimming like ducks in our wake, and
+biting one another with loud chattering for the pieces of bacon thrown
+to them almost under the stern.”</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 18th, the atmosphere brightened with a light
+southerly wind; and for the first time since we left Jan Mayen, on
+the 9th of July, it was bright and clear. We now saw that we were in
+a large ice bay, opening towards the south-east. It was a wonderfully
+beautiful (one might almost say a festive) Sunday morning. The eye
+refreshed itself with the deep blue of the softly rippling and
+lightly moving sea, and rested quietly upon the wide semicircle of
+the glittering ice-bank. The sun once more sent a friendly beam from
+the clear sky, and seemed to show us that even here he could provide
+what we had so long needed—warmth and dryness. With what pleasure we
+enjoyed those morning hours, and drew in the clear fresh air! How we
+once more learned to realize what sun and sunshine are to mankind!
+But, wonderful to relate, with all this, the recollections of our
+own country receded more and more. We stood and felt that we were
+at the entrance of a new world, whose whole enchantment had thus
+burst upon us. At first,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span> there was an imperceptible struggle with
+the mighty powers of nature; but now we were thoroughly prepared for
+anything that might turn up, and looked forward with impatience to
+our advancing westward. One after the other mounted to the topmast or
+the “crow’s-nest,” and gazed out upon the masses of ice: we could not
+satiate ourselves with the panorama. A way for the Germania must and
+should be found.</p>
+
+<p>But there was another and more important object which the sharpest eyes
+could not succeed in finding, our lost sister-ship, the Hansa, which we
+had not seen since leaving Jan Mayen. It was impossible that she could
+be far away, for we were quite near the appointed place of rendezvous,
+75° N.L., and we must in any case find her now before the fog should
+surround us once more. The prize of a bottle of wine was therefore
+set upon the discovery of the Hansa, though we scarcely required this
+incitement, so keen and so deep was our interest in the fate of our
+beloved comrades.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after breakfast, to the great joy of all, a sail was discovered
+from the topmast far away in the ice in E.N.E. It was a schooner, and
+as the whale-fishers do not use such craft, it must be the Hansa, which
+by a seaman’s eye was soon verified by her peculiar rig. The Hansa
+was under full sail; certainly she must have already seen us, and was
+trying her best to reach us through the apparently thick ice which
+surrounded her. We ourselves hoped that we should be able at once to
+advance farther westward together; so the boiler was heated without
+delay, and everything prepared for getting up steam, so as to unite the
+two vessels before the fog returned. Meanwhile, it was four o’clock in
+the afternoon ere we could move,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> as, in fitting the screw, something
+had been overlooked, which took us some hours to rectify. The Hansa had
+in the meantime worked herself some miles nearer to us, and now lay in
+the floating ice. The weather was beautiful and clear, and there was
+a dead calm; so that with the speed of 5¼ knots, which we made with
+a 50lb. pressure, we reached our friends at about eight o’clock. The
+ice-spikes which encircled our bay to the north-east, stretching far to
+the east, and towards which we were driving, resolved themselves as we
+approached into small, and very small, brashes, between which the ship
+easily made her way or forced it, though not without some gratings and
+slight working of the steam. Our farther advance was unimpeded. The
+ice-strewn sea now presented a peculiarly interesting spectacle. It had
+assumed by the reflection of the sky, which had been heavily-clouded
+for some hours, an almost black hue, in strong contrast with the colour
+of the ice, whilst the north-westerly horizon shone with the brightest
+yellow tints. At eight we were near the Hansa; both ships hoisted their
+flags. The Hansa gave expression to her joy by firing her guns; but we,
+not being prepared, had to return the salute with our fowling-pieces.
+Greetings re-echoed from one side to the other, as we went round the
+Hansa, and universal joy reigned on board both ships.</p>
+
+<p>We then took her in tow, and steered back the same way by which we had
+come, until some slight disorder in the machinery obliged us to stop,
+when both ships were again put under sail.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile Captain Hegemann, Dr. Buchholz, and Dr. Laube had come on
+board, and the captains consulted together regarding the next steps to
+be taken. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> Hansa had, like ourselves, been several days in the ice.
+Indeed, a glance at the logs showed that since their separation the
+two vessels had never been far from one another, that they had sailed
+in the same course to the ice, and had also sighted it the same day,
+and that nothing but continued fog had prevented us from sighting each
+other sooner. Captain Hegemann reported that farther north a larger
+bay penetrated to the westward. We, however, preferred trying the
+southerly one. We further agreed, conformably with our instructions,
+that in case of a separation among the ice, the next place of meeting
+should be Sabine Island, as it was plainly loss of time to return to
+74½° N.L., to the line of heavy ice, if we had each found an opening;
+besides which, the attempt ought not to be given up before the middle
+of September, and we hoped to get through much sooner, as the position
+of the ice, in comparison with that of 1868, seemed more favourable.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, the gentlemen sat in the cabin over their wine, exchanging
+the experiences and results of the last few days. The zoologists, it
+is true, were the only men who were particularly satisfied, as both in
+the higher and lower classes of animals they had already an interesting
+collection. Of birds there were several “Mallemucke” shot and properly
+prepared; also one of the robber-gulls with the two peculiar elongated
+middle tail feathers (<i>Lestris crepidata</i>, Brehm). Several
+seals (<i>Phoca Greenlandica</i>, L.) had also fallen a sacrifice
+to science. But the lower animals had yielded the richest harvest,
+and besides different species of <i>Calanus</i>, <i>Lysianassa</i>,
+<i>Gammarus</i>, and so forth, several specimens of the beautiful
+<i>Beroë</i> had been obtained. Pity that these wonderful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> creatures,
+with transparent cucumber-shaped bodies, long rosy-red tentacles, and
+their eight rows of glittering, many-coloured leaf-like processes, with
+which they move slowly forward, cannot be preserved in their original
+beauty.</p>
+
+<p>But in other respects also we had not been altogether inactive. The
+soundings—this difficult and time-consuming work—had here on the
+ice boundary shown an important deepening of the bottom of the sea;
+whilst on the 14th we had touched ground at 930 fathoms, on the 15th we
+could no longer do so with 1230 fathoms. Here the unsettled state of
+the weather prevented us from finishing this work with satisfaction to
+ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>The mean temperature of these four days was 35° Fahr. It did not rise
+above 40°, and once, early on the 16th, sank to below 32°. The water on
+the surface was of much the same temperature; it oscillated between 34°
+and 33½°. The colour of the water was mostly clear blue.</p>
+
+<p>In the exchange of such observations and merry and free conversation,
+it was now midnight. At this time we were obliged to stop, as the
+axle-bed was heated and required cooling. A rising fog and a coming
+breeze decided us; so we gave up steam entirely, and let the two ships
+separate once more and proceed under sail.</p>
+
+<p>Full of joy and confident hope for the future, we shook hands at
+parting, and the gentlemen from the Hansa returned to their ship.
+In sisterly harmony the two vessels sailed along, and many a joyous
+greeting and joke resounded from the one to the other.</p>
+
+<p>Who on this evening would have thought that this was the last time we
+should be together? that we should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> never again see our sister-ship,
+and our comrades only after fourteen months’ time, and then so
+wonderfully preserved from drowning? Our happy feelings did not allow
+such unwholesome thoughts to arise.</p>
+
+<p>Our present object was now to follow the ice boundary farther
+southward, at the same time looking for an opening by which we might
+push on to the west. In tacking in contrary winds, we came against
+several sharp prominences of the thick ice-line, which here stretched
+in a west-south-westerly direction.</p>
+
+<p>On the afternoon of the 19th of July the breeze freshened; we made good
+way, and as much open water was before us, we soon noticed the now
+unusual swell. The weather was tolerable, the fog came and went, so
+that we kept the Hansa mostly in sight.</p>
+
+<p>This day brought us something new. The first white bear was seen, and
+that swimming, and for the first time an Arctic dish appeared on our
+table. At breakfast the cook astonished us with a very delicate and
+tender seal liver, and in the evening a very savoury stew of the flesh;
+we were glad to get a little fresh meat, and soon lost the excusable
+repugnance to the “oily” seal.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed farther along the ice-line towards the south-west.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the 19th and 20th we fell in with ice, seemingly a
+part of the closely-packed floes driven from the great mass. The swell
+had entirely disappeared, and we moved amongst loose floating ice to
+the south-west. It was mostly thick fog at night, though it cleared
+somewhat about eight in the morning. The wind was S.S.W. In the
+south-west we still found compact floating ice, and at eleven turned
+again to westward. The Hansa was a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> few miles to windward of us; and
+as both captains wished to consult together once more, and, if the
+weather allowed, to take coals on board the Germania, the approach
+signal was hoisted. The Hansa misunderstood this,<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> set more sail,
+and disappeared in the now thickly-rising fog before we could succeed
+in following her. Thus a fatal misunderstanding separated the two
+ships, and that for ever. We will now leave the Germania, under Captain
+Koldewey’s command, to her further course, and hear Captain Hegemann
+and his companions’ report as to how the Hansa fared.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br>
+<span class="subhed">FURTHER VOYAGE OF THE HANSA UNTIL HER BLOCKADE IN THE COAST ICE OF EAST
+GREENLAND. 20TH JULY TO 7TH SEPT.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Final separation of both ships.—The Germania’s signal
+misunderstood by the Hansa.—The Hansa photographed in the
+ice.—Snow blindness.—Difficulties of making way through
+the ice.—Animal life.—The rocky coast of Greenland visible
+for the first time.—The Hansa steers once more out of the
+ice.—Two ships in sight to seaward.—The Hansa’s struggle
+with the ice.—Fall of snow on the 3rd of August.—Southerly
+currents.—Second attempt of the Hansa to reach Sabine
+Island.—The Hansa sails to the north.—Countless seals.—Steer
+to the north-west.—Circumstances particularly unfavourable
+to further progress.—By towing the ship open water at last
+reached.—Hemmed in once more.—Reverses, trouble, and dangers,
+until the blocking up of the Hansa.—Changeable frame of mind
+on board.—Soundings.—Trial with the dredge.—Journey in the
+boat in the direction of land.—Sabine and Pendulum Islands in
+sight.—Meal on the ice.—The Captain’s birthday.—Poverty of
+animal life on the sea near the coast.—Hunting.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Morning of the 20th, strong W.S.W. wind blowing. At eight o’clock spoke
+the Germania. Captain Koldewey signalled to keep farther from the ice
+on account of bad weather. We therefore steered eastward for some
+time, but found that, instead of getting looser, the ice had become
+more dense; we therefore lay close hauled on the port tack, and at ten
+o’clock were obliged to steer to N.W. Meanwhile, the water improved,
+and after sailing through a stream of floating ice, we saw open
+water in a <span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span>westerly direction. So for westward! Captain Koldewey
+gave us a signal, which, through the hazy weather, we unfortunately
+misunderstood. We thought we read, “Long stay a-peak,” which Captain
+Hegemann interpreted that the ship should sail as far westward as
+possible. The signal, however, really meant, “Come within hail.” The
+misunderstanding was fatal; the Hansa pushed on to westward, lost sight
+of the Germania on the 20th of July, and never saw her again.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0802_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0802_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_81"><i>Page 81.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">BLOCKS OF ICE WITH SEALS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>It is, however, tolerably certain, and it is also confirmed by both
+captains’ statements, that, on account of the Arctic weather, it would
+have been very, very difficult for the two ships to have remained
+together, and it would have made landing doubly difficult. And in the
+course of this account, it will be seen that the Hansa on her side of
+the coast could have reached another point, had she not been prevented
+by the letter of her instructions.</p>
+
+<p>Before noon on the 21st of July, as we lay quietly in the pack, Mr.
+Hildebrandt, who had brought his photographic apparatus on the ice,
+succeeded in taking a good photograph of the Hansa. The dazzling
+snow in the sunshine produced snow-blindness for the first time in
+one of the sailors, Philip Heine, and snow spectacles were at once
+distributed. Seals and narwhals were seen near the ship, some of which
+we killed at first. An attempt to draw out the ice-bears by a fire lit
+on a block of ice, and fed with seal-blubber, failed. Nevertheless, our
+mid-day table was enriched with seal-meat, regarding the palatableness
+of which opinions differed. The continually falling fog enveloped
+everything, shrouds, masts, rigging, with a thick crust of ice, so that
+some one had to be sent up to beat it down; and pieces were constantly
+falling,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span> covering the deck with broken ice. With great trouble the
+ship moved slowly forwards, sometimes towed and pushed by the men,
+sometimes sailing through a little water. Nevertheless, we were
+quite aware that the wind and currents were driving us far from our
+destination towards the south, and indeed, the leeway amounted in seven
+days (from the 21st to the 28th July) to about seventy-two nautical
+miles. For awhile we had comparatively low temperature, on the 24th
+July, for example, 31° Fahr.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0820_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0820_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">CAPE BROER RUYS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Of birds, the <i>Lestris</i> and <i>Procellaria</i> were mostly seen,
+and the ivory gull daily. Of Radiata, Dr. Buchholz mentions a beautiful
+ribbed Medusa, with vermilion ribs and fringes.</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th of July, we found ourselves in 72° 56′ N.L. and 16° 54′
+W.L. On that day we caught sight of the dark, rocky coast of East
+Greenland for the first time, from Cape Broer Ruys to Cape James.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0830_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0830_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">CAPE JAMES.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Dr. Laube remarks:—“I know now what is meant by making an expedition
+to the North Pole, and what weighty difficulties lie between East
+Greenland and Spitzbergen. Scoresby found it easier; he broke through
+to the coast just where he found a good place: and we shall evidently<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>
+have to proceed in the same manner, for it does not seem difficult to
+reach the Liverpool coast; Clavering and Sabine, also, easily found an
+opportunity of getting to Pendulum Island; but it is difficult, indeed
+almost impracticable, for us to land at that place. The decision is
+easier on the map than in the Arctic Sea, as circumstances there arise
+which cannot be anticipated.” As we could no longer continue the same
+course, there remained nothing for us but to act up to the letter of
+our instructions, and steer once more in an easterly direction out of
+the ice; and having once reached the edge, begin afresh. On the 29th
+and 30th of July, we sighted two vessels, tacking with a north-east
+wind, about twelve sea miles distant. As we afterwards learned, one
+was the steamer Bienenkorb, Captain Hagens, from the Weser, which,
+on the 29th of July, farther northwards, spoke with the (to us)
+still invisible Germania; and on her return to Bremen on the 2nd of
+September, reported thus:—“Spoke the Germania on the 29th of July,
+in about 73° 2′ N.L. and 15° 50′ W.L.; she was steering northwards
+along the border of the ice to rejoin the Hansa. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span> Bienenkorb took
+a south-westerly course along the ice, and about noon, in 72° 38′ N.L.
+saw the Hansa beset about eight miles within the pack.”</p>
+
+<p>Blocked in we were not really yet, though nearing the coast at once was
+not to be thought of, on account of the compactness of the floes. On
+the 31st of July, the vessels had disappeared. The following day, the
+1st of August, they appeared once more, though possibly only in the way
+caused by refraction. The Hansa struggled heavily through the ice. At
+one o’clock in the afternoon (says the captain’s log-book) we sailed
+under bare poles, merely by the pressure of the wind on the masts and
+rigging E.N.E. with a strong west-sou’-west wind. At two o’clock we
+broke through two gigantic floes. At the first shock against them, the
+forepart of the ship rose two feet on to the ice, and quivered as if
+the keel had struck the bottom. Masts and shrouds trembled and swayed
+under the powerful shock, but, as we might have expected, the Hansa
+bore it well.</p>
+
+<p>3rd of August: a fine fall of snow.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th (the same day on which the Germania anchored off Sabine
+Island) the Hansa was once more in open water. Eight days previously,
+before we had resolved to sail eastward, we were in 72° 55·6′ N.L. and
+16° 54′ W.L. Now, on the 5th of August, we were in 72° 29′ N.L. and 13°
+48′ W.L. The current had carried us in this time twenty-six nautical
+miles to the southwards. The direction and strength of the southerly
+drift current could not be accurately determined, as in going backwards
+and forwards through the ice, no control could be kept over our course.
+In spite of the many shocks, and the pressure of the ice, the ship had
+not suffered.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span></p>
+
+<p>We now made a second attempt at following the instructions to penetrate
+to the coast in latitude 75°.</p>
+
+<p>From the 5th to the 11th of August we had, with the exception of slight
+fogs, good weather, the reading of the thermometer ranging from 27° to
+36° F.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed northwards along the ice boundary with a good southerly wind,
+until the 10th of August. Seals were numerous, swimming in troops of
+from ten to twenty. They were very lively, often springing with the
+whole of their body out of the water, a sign that it was pairing time.
+At eight o’clock we fancied we saw a vessel, and the hope of finding
+the Germania once more arose within us, but a thick fog set in, and our
+signal-gun remained unanswered.</p>
+
+<p>9th August: in 74° 14·6′ N.L. and 11° 2′ W.L. Froze in the night,
+between the 10th and 11th, the ice being an inch and a half thick. We
+steered in a north-westerly direction, and at seven in the morning were
+twenty-five nautical miles nearer the coast, in 74° 58½′ N.L. and 11°
+16·5’ W.L., the thickness of the ice preventing us from making further
+use of the favourable south-west wind.</p>
+
+<p>For the next few days our task was an unusually heavy one. The wind
+was unfavourable, so the attempt to sail through the opposing ice was
+impracticable. But twelve hours’ work of dragging the ship along by
+means of a small anchor fastened to a rope, through the icy barrier,
+resulted in our reaching navigable water on the 13th.</p>
+
+<p>But we were again disappointed! After sailing westward one night,
+we saw ourselves, on the morning of the 14th, hemmed in once more
+on all sides; fresh ice formed between the floes, besides filling
+up every passage, so that the Hansa was fast again. From this time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span>
+forward until the complete blocking up of the Hansa, the captain’s
+log-book unfolds a succession of reverses, troubles, and dangers.
+August 14th, fast; shot a Polar bear; stream south-west ½° W.; made
+thirteen nautical miles in forty-eight hours: 15th, we are nearer the
+coast than we have yet been. Shannon I. distant forty-eight nautical
+miles, Pendulum, fifty-nine; thick ice. 16th, thermometer, 25° Fahr.;
+fine weather. Stuck fast to the floe, drifting steadily southward.
+Warping quite useless. 18th and 19th warped again. Made some few ship’s
+lengths. Open water to the north-west, which we reached on the 23rd,
+hoping to sail farther westward.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0860_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0860_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE “FLOWER-BASKET.”</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0861_ill" style="max-width: 680px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0861_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_86"><i>Page 86.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">WARPING THROUGH THE ICE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span></p>
+
+<p>Evening, fast again in 74° 36·4′ N.L. and 15° 49·1′ W.L. For zoological
+observation there was much to interest. The body of a <i>Phoca
+Greenlandica</i> had drawn numerous ivory gulls together. Two birds
+(<i>Strepsilas interpres</i>) were observable on the new ice; and the
+dredge produced us many beautiful star-fishes and molluscs.</p>
+
+<p>August 24th: a boat excursion to the land; captain, two officers, Dr.
+Laube, and two sailors. We left the ship at two o’clock, and pressed
+forward to within sixteen nautical miles of the land. Passed a peculiar
+icy formation, which we named the “Flower-basket.” Saw the coast very
+distinctly from a tall hummock, which we climbed, and hoisted the
+German flag upon it. Further we could not go, as the ice was too close,
+and a late return to the ship, which was ever drifting southwards,
+would be very difficult in a possibly rising fog. Return journey began
+quarter past seven in the evening. On board once more by half-past
+twelve at night. The position of the ice was much altered, and a dense
+fog came up, so that we could scarcely find our way, and were often
+obliged to haul the boat over the floes. W. Bade’s diary describes with
+genuine sailor’s humour the frugal evening meal under the open sky
+upon the ice during their excursion. In the hurry, only hard bread and
+some cocoa had been brought with us, and a few bottles of sherry and
+brandy. Cigars never failed. “At first, owing to the lowness of the
+temperature, we could not succeed in boiling the water; and in order to
+concentrate the heat had to lay our sou’-westers over the machine—a
+very questionable proceeding, inasmuch as these oilskin coverings were
+with great difficulty saved from the flames, which readily caught
+them.” On the 25th<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> we towed the ship in a calm towards the coast.
+To-day the Hansa reached its nearest to Sabine Island. The vessel lay
+due west ¼° N., thirty-five nautical miles off, in 74° 30′ N.L. and 16°
+40′ 5″ W.L. On the 25th and 27th the ship underwent pressure by the
+ice, but remained undamaged. According to the report of the Germania’s
+voyage, she anchored after a journey to Shannon Island on the 27th of
+August in the evening, and was at Little Pendulum at eleven o’clock.
+At this time we were in about 74° 20′ N.L. and 16° 50′ W.L.; so that
+at the utmost the ships were not more than thirty-four nautical miles
+distant from each other! Much colder these last few days: 23° to 16° F.
+August 28th: the first and only time we had a brisk north-west wind;
+drifted with a large ice-field considerably southward.</p>
+
+<p>Taking into consideration the strong ice pressure to which the ship
+was continually subject, we made ready the boats and divided the fur
+clothing. We saw before us the imminent prospect of being obliged to
+pass the winter off the coast. We began seriously to talk of using
+our coal-bricks to build a house on the ice to which we might fly for
+refuge in case the ship were lost. September 2nd: rain and storm from
+the south-east. Morning of the 5th, fine weather, light south-east
+wind; sailed twenty nautical miles in a north-westerly direction,
+partly by the side of an ice-field fifteen nautical miles long, until
+eight in the evening, when calm, fog, and ice brought us once more to a
+stand. This was our last sail. Had we had steam we should most likely
+have reached the open water, which we saw along the coast.</p>
+
+<p>The next day we laid the Hansa between two promontories of a large
+ice-field, which eventually proved a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span> raft of deliverance. Now began
+the complete blockade of our ship in the ice.</p>
+
+<p>These occurrences and the changing state of mind on board up to this
+time is plainly perceivable in the diaries. Dr. Laube writes thus on
+the 13th of August:—“As towards morning the wind was more favourable,
+we heaved up the anchor and tried to get free. Vain effort! Although
+we towed from one floe to the other, with all our strength, we were
+none the nearer. Scarcely were we free from one floe than another
+immediately drifted into its place. It seems bewitched. At noon,
+our faces were very long, and we came to look upon our mission as
+a failure. Open water seemed nearer again, but we were faster than
+ever in the ice. In spite of all our trouble the ship had not moved
+an inch from the floe, which is in reality an immense ice-field on
+our lee, whilst on our weather-side lay some large blocks. At last,
+after fourteen hours’ heavy labour, the ship got free. The floes broke
+asunder, a passage opened, and we sailed into it with a fair wind. The
+canal gets broader and broader. Beyond, the sea seems almost free from
+ice. Right and left it receded to the horizon. It was as if we were
+on a great lake; some floes swimming about like islands. As a heavy
+fog shut out the sun, we could not see where the open water ended.
+We hovered between hope and fear. Ten minutes before six o’clock we
+got under weigh; seven, eight, nine o’clock, no end to be seen! Ten
+o’clock, open water still before us. Unfortunately the breeze dropped
+entirely. I asked Mr. Bade how long we could still sail. He thought the
+whole night through. We could not go to rest yet. Our hearts beat from
+excitement, and however deep hope had sunk at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> noon, it rose now higher
+every minute. Eleven o’clock, still sailing! but very slowly, till the
+wind died away entirely.”</p>
+
+<p>The 14th of August, in 74° 45.4′ N.L., and 13° 56·5′ “W.L. At nine in
+the evening soundings were taken, and a depth of 120 fathoms found. The
+ground was mud; the dredging-nets were full of sponges, polythalamias,
+and so forth. Another on the 16th in 74° 38′ N.L. and 14° 34′ W.L.,
+at noon gave 100 fathoms; the ground was brown slime. In the evening
+several attempts were made with the dredge. The first brought up a
+beautiful sponge, in the cavities of which were many fine and beautiful
+amphipoda; besides a great deal of sand and fine slime, in which by
+sifting we found countless bivalves and snails, (<i>Terebratulæ</i>,
+<i>Serpulariæ</i>); and some beautiful polythalamias, &amp;c. A second and
+third attempt was followed by no result.”</p>
+
+<p>It freezes visibly, and the fresh ice uniting the floes is already so
+thick that it can bear a man. “We remained,” says Dr. Laube, “with
+every sail set between the great, thick ice-packs, having advanced upon
+the whole three ship’s-lengths westward. In the evening we distinctly
+saw land towering above the ice; the refraction showing us a solid
+barrier to the north. To the east the ice lies just as thickly packed.
+Two-thirds of the way happily lay behind us, but the last third seemed
+to be beset by insurmountable difficulties. To what purpose was all
+our labour? I thought of those at home, who only admit imaginary
+difficulties in the ice, and who, perhaps, doubt our good will, our
+self-sacrifice, and our sincere endeavours. I did not go to rest that
+night with the best and quietest of thoughts. We were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> in the ice, but
+whether or how we should ever come out again, God only knew.”</p>
+
+<p>Several photographs of the ship were taken from the neighbouring floes
+by the first officer, Mr. Hildebrandt. The frost and the reflection
+of the ice were very troublesome, but some succeeded very well.
+Unfortunately, this trouble was also in vain. Neither the apparatus nor
+the plates could be saved at the going down of the Hansa. On the 20th,
+fifty nautical miles from the coast, two small land-birds were seen
+picking up food on the ice.</p>
+
+<p>The boat journey to the longed-for land was undertaken by the captain,
+the second officer, and two sailors, as well as Dr. Laube. “We sailed,”
+says the latter in his diary, “at two o’clock, and made a rapid course
+through a long, wide canal. The vessel was soon lost to sight, as the
+floes were very high. The ice-field along which the Hansa lay, was
+nearly four miles long. Passing through a cross channel, we came into
+some more open water, so that at five o’clock we were about seven to
+eight nautical miles distant from the ship, and consequently so many
+miles nearer land. We lay to by a large floe, and from its top looked
+around us. The ice before us was ‘Pack-ice.’ We saw the islands of
+Pendulum and Sabine surrounded by a streak of light which we took for
+open coast water.<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p>
+
+<p>“We spread our oilskin coats on the floe, encamped there, and made our
+cocoa, enjoyed the fine sunny day, and rejoiced over the glimpse of
+land. We then crossed another and a larger tract of ice, and climbed
+a wall which rose straight out of the water. On this, our farthest
+point, we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> planted the flag. As we noticed that the ice was once more
+in motion, from the fact that the small harbour in which our boat
+lay was entirely filled up, we resolved to return. The home journey
+was considerably more difficult than the outward one; the canal was
+closed up, and it was not easy to find the right opening. We were
+often obliged to get out and survey from some high spot; and often
+to push the boat over the ice. As the wind had quite dropped we were
+compelled to row. In some places the fresh ice prevented us from making
+any way; and after sunset a dense fog rose, which might in so far
+be disagreeable, as to compel us to pass the night on the floe. We,
+however, eventually succeeded in reaching the Hansa, which we had left
+in open water, and now found jammed between two hummocks, so that we
+could scarcely get near her. But we at least brought the hope with us
+that it was not impossible to reach the coast.”</p>
+
+<p>The 25th of August was the captain’s birthday, and was kept by firing a
+gun, the hoisting of the ship’s flag, and a huge cake, made with great
+art by our cook. At breakfast, the hero of the <i>fête</i> found upon
+his plate a pretty poem by Dr. Laube, in which the good wishes of all
+were heartily expressed. A part of our community amused themselves by
+skating. On the afternoon of the 29th we saw a magnificent phenomenon.
+Two coloured coronas formed round the sun, in which were conspicuous,
+by their greater brightness, three spots. One stood vertically over
+the sun, and was the spring of an arch, which touched one corona, and
+the convex side of which was turned to the sun. This was not really
+a <i>mock sun</i>, like those on each side, but a concentration of
+brightness<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span> at the point of contact of the two bows, thus giving the
+impression that it stood across the vertical spot. The two side mock
+suns, to the right and left of the sun, were united by an elliptical
+arch, passing through it, and were elongated, presenting the colours of
+the rainbow, and emitting a bright steel-grey pyramid or cone. The red
+colour spread over the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Marine animal life was strikingly poor near the coast. <i>Cydippe</i>
+and <i>Beroë</i> were not rare, but on the other hand gammarus and
+amphipoda, which we noticed on the outer ice boundary, were quite
+wanting. On the 15th of August the dredge brought up some very fine
+<i>Comatulæ</i> and <i>Antedon Sarsii</i>. <i>Larus eburneus</i>, the
+ivory gull, was often fed from the ship, and caught by angling. Some
+birds we let fly again, with a brass coin with “Hansa” upon it fastened
+round their throats. At the beginning of September <i>Mergulus alle</i>
+was common. We often saw ravens. The hunting-expeditions from the 10th
+of August to the blockading of the ship yielded nine seals, amongst
+which were two crested seals, and one young polar bear.</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, August 29th: steadily drifting forward in a southerly
+direction. Of land we shall soon see nothing more, and the ice is so
+dense on all sides that it is in vain to look for an opening even from
+the crow’s-nest. Our position is growing every moment more serious; but
+in case of the worst, the boats are completely fitted and victualled,
+on the deck, so that at a moment’s notice they can be lowered.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER V.<br>
+<span class="subhed">FROM THE BLOCKING UP OF THE HANSA TO OUR SETTLEMENT ON THE FLOE. 7TH
+SEPT. TO END OF OCT.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Fresh attempt to reach the coast.—Open water to westwards.—The
+Hansa completely frozen in by Sept. 14th.—Pressure of the
+floes against the ship.—A she-bear and her cub.—The bear
+killed.—Wintering on the ice off the coast unavoidable.—Our
+prospects for the future.—We build a house in which to
+pass the winter.—The boats clear.—The Hansa in a struggle
+with the ice.—Breaking up of the keel.—The ship has to be
+abandoned.—Extrication of the chief necessaries from the
+ship.—First night in the Hansa-house on the floe.—Wreck
+of the Hansa.—Favourable weather during the period of the
+catastrophe.—Sinking of the wreck.—Completion of the
+arrangements in our hut.—Hoisting of the North German flag.—We
+steadily drift to the southwards.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>On the 7th of September the hope of reaching the coast fluttered
+once more in our breasts. In the afternoon, with clear weather and a
+temperature of 20° Fahr., the coast-line was clearly to be seen about
+thirty-five nautical miles distant. To the west of the ice-field,
+on the east side of which the Hansa lay blocked up, could be seen a
+large, open, navigable, white-crested water which seemed to reach to
+the coast. We took an excursion over the ice-field along the southern
+border towards the west, in order to ascertain whether the channel
+there was navigable all the way through, so that by means of it we
+might reach the open water.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> Wading through deep and superficially
+frozen snow, we reached a high block of ice, which we named the
+“Devil’s Thumb,” from the top of which a wider view could be obtained.
+Sitting astride or lying on this, we refreshed the inner man with a
+little “caraways,” which Bade had brought with him as a strengthener.
+Two other colossal masses of ice, between which lay a picturesque
+narrow pass, we called the “Brandenburg Gate.” One of them we succeeded
+in climbing, by mounting on one another’s shoulders and then cutting
+steps with a knife in the ice wall. Hildebrandt sketched the little
+scene. Unfortunately the channel proved too narrow to admit the vessel
+and soon the ice in it and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> on the other side of the field set firmer
+together. The next day we had frosty weather, 23° to 5° Fahr., and
+on the 14th of September, the Hansa was completely frozen up in 73°
+25·7′ N.L., and 18° 39·5′ W.L. The south-westerly drift combined with
+the continual wind blowing from the north drove the ship in the ice
+steadily southwards, so that from the 12th to the 14th (for example) we
+had drifted thirteen nautical miles to the south.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0950_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0950_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE DEVIL’S THUMB.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0960_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0960_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE “BRANDENBURG GATE.”</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>On the 9th, a large floe drifted into the mouth of the bay in which the
+Hansa lay. This we made fast with hawsers, in order to protect us from
+the floating ice. Some days later, a storm from the N.N.E. broke the
+hawsers and set the floe drifting once more. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> ice thrust our ship
+into the field, at the same time raising the Hansa a foot and a half.
+On a neighbouring field we saw a she-bear with her cub. A boat at once
+put off to hunt them.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0970_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0970_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">HUNTING THE POLAR BEAR.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The pair soon espied us, and tramped to the edge of the ice near the
+boat, the old one gnashing her teeth and licking her chaps. We fired as
+soon as we could take a steady aim, and the bear fell dead in the snow.
+Over the young one, which remained by her side licking and caressing
+her in the most affecting way, we repeatedly cast a noose, which,
+however, it always eluded, and at last ran away howling and lamenting;
+so we lost it in spite of a shot which wounded it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span></p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0980_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0980_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">POLAR BEAR AS A WATCHDOG.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p0990_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p0990_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ICE-FORMATIONS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1000_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1000_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">SKATING ON “SINAI.”</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>At ten p.m. we saw in a westerly direction towards the south some
+gleams of the northern lights. They were short, bright, glittering
+sheaves and phosphorescent spots, which lengthened out towards the
+zenith, but soon disappeared. At the same time, we heard the young bear
+howling dismally on the spot where its mother had been killed. The
+fresh bear’s-meat came most opportunely, and tasted excellent either
+as a roast joint or in chops. On the 12th, from the east as before,
+leaving the land behind them, came another couple of bears. The old one
+met the same fate as her forerunner; the young one was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span> caught, escaped
+again, was brought back swimming, and lastly chained to the ice-anchor.
+It was very frightened, but eagerly devoured its mother’s flesh which
+we threw to it. We built it a snow-house, and offered it a couch of
+shavings, which, however, the young bear, as a genuine inhabitant of
+the Arctic seas, despised, and preferred camping in the snow. Some days
+later, it had disappeared, together with the chain, which must have
+become loosened from the anchor. From the weight of the iron alone the
+poor creature must soon have sunk. Other Arctic guests visited the
+Hansa. With a brisk wind came two white foxes from the coast close to
+the ship, a certain proof that the ice, either in fields or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> young
+ice, must extend to the coast. With tails high in the air they shot
+over the ice-fields like small craft sailing before the wind. For the
+first moment it seemed as if the wind had caught up a couple of large
+semicircles of whitish yellow paper, and was wafting them along. One
+of the creatures was shot from on board by Mr. Hildebrandt, and the
+next day gave us a very well-flavoured joint of fox. The idle time we
+did our best to fill up with all sorts of occupations. In the course
+of frequent walks, we observed the forms which the ice assumed, and
+some particularly strange and striking ones we gave names to. A short
+half-hour’s walk from the ship lay “Sinai,” an ice mass thirty-nine<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>
+feet high, composed of fragments and mighty blocks, and the highest
+jagged point of which looked in the distance like the finger of an
+outspread hand; then somewhat farther on stood the already mentioned
+“Brandenburg Gate,” two pieces of ice standing near each other like a
+gateway fifteen feet thick and twenty high; and lastly, between some
+neighbouring floes, the “Devil’s Thumb.” We managed to skate on the
+rough ice, and in fine weather we strengthened our constitution by
+gymnastic games. The men, for example, amused themselves thoroughly
+with ball-play; which in twenty-seven degrees of cold and bright
+sunshine covered their foreheads with beads of perspiration. You should
+have seen our carpenter, how light-footed he ran with his fur cap over
+his ears, his great thick jacket, and coarse heavy boots!</p>
+
+<p>Towards the end of September, the necessity of wintering on the
+floating ice off the coast, with or without the ship, was decided upon;
+and the serious question forced itself upon us, as to what chances
+we had to count upon in our favour, or how to prepare against the
+possibility which lay before us that with the ship, though possibly
+under many dangers, we might drift southwards, and in February emerge
+from the ice not far from Iceland. Certainly, the experience of many
+former Greenland captains, who had got on to the ice on the Greenland
+coast, told us that their vessels had gone to the bottom, and the
+men had been sometimes lost, and sometimes saved in the boats, after
+frightful difficulties and dangers, by reaching an Esquimaux settlement
+on the south-west coast. In Lindeman’s “Arctic Fishery” (p. 37), for
+example, it is related that this happened in the year 1777 to several
+ships; amongst others,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> the Wilhelmine; from Texel. On the other side,
+there floated before our eyes the equally dangerous circumstances
+of the journey carried out by the Fox, blocked up in the ice under
+MacClintock, as well as Kane’s first voyage. Our ship was provided with
+every improvement which could make an Arctic expedition in the present
+day less dangerous than formerly. It would have been unwise on our
+part to rest content with these facts; indeed, in the second part of
+September, the more frequent pressure of the ice warned us that we must
+prepare for the worst, namely the loss of the ship.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1021_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1021_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_102"><i>Page 102.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ICE-FORMATIONS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>A winter passed in the boats on the ice with only sail-roofs was
+conceivable; but apparently, both in regard of health and life, it
+would be in the highest degree dangerous. How protect oneself from the
+storms, the cold, and the increasing down-whirling masses of snow,
+which sometimes last for weeks together? How provide the indispensable
+warm nourishment? The erection of a winter-house on the ice must be
+taken into consideration. Immediately the building of the aforesaid
+coal-house was clamoured for. Bricks were already there in the shape
+of coal-tiles, an excellent building material, which would absorb
+the damp and keep the warmth in the room. Water and snow formed the
+mortar. For the roof, in case of a real settlement on the ice-field on
+account of the loss of the ship, we purposed taking the snow roofing
+of the deck of the Hansa. Before anything else was done the boats were
+cleared out, and two of them, the Hope and the Bismarck, covered with
+the snow roof. For each of these, provisions were kept ready on deck.
+Captain Hegemann sketched the plan for the building. The length was 20
+feet, the breadth 14 feet, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span>and the height 6½ feet in the gable, the
+side walls being only 4 feet 8 inches high. A firm spot, free from any
+fracture, was chosen about 450 paces from the ship; and we had no cause
+to fear that the floe might soon break from friction with any other
+drifting ice-field. Had the house been a greater distance from the
+ship, the difficulty of bringing up the heavy materials would have been
+greater, and thus have retarded the progress of the building. The work
+began on the 27th of September with the foundations, which here were
+more ready to hand than on land. With snow-axes and ballast-shovels we
+then cleared away from the firm mass of ice about a foot and a half of
+snow. We had intended to raise the walls with a double row of stones;
+but unfortunately had overrated our stock, and were therefore obliged
+to economize, and only use the 9-inch broad stones up to about two
+feet, and after that lay them singly. A brook which we had dug in the
+ice hard by, and which gave us the sweetest of water, also afforded
+the most excellent cement. Whilst wall-building on land has to be
+given up in frosty weather, our building on the contrary progressed
+the more rapidly. We only needed to strew finely-powdered snow between
+the grooves and cracks, pour water upon it, and in ten minutes all was
+frozen to a strong compact mass, from which one single stone would with
+difficulty have been extracted! The roof, for the present, was composed
+of sail-cloth and some matting, which had by chance been left on the
+Hansa after her last West Indian voyage. (This was made of reeds, and
+was laid down in the cabin when company was expected.) The rafters
+were made out of the spars and staves of tubs; the first-named were
+laid crossways upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span> the latter. On this framework the sail-cloth and
+matting were nailed; and in order to give this somewhat airy building
+more solidity and firmness, snow was thrown upon the top. A double
+door two feet and a half wide we made on board; the floor we filled
+in with coal blocks; and thus in seven days, namely on the 3rd of
+October, we began to provide the finished house with provisions for two
+months—about 400 lbs. of bread, two dozen tins of preserved meat, a
+side of bacon, some coffee and brandy; afterwards fuel, and some boxes
+of coal. At the same time the plank roofing, in case of wintering on
+board, was erected. This wooden roof, covered with felt, rested on the
+one side on the mast and on the other on the bulwarks. It reached from
+the mainmast to the after part of the ship. Amidships and to the fore,
+sails were stretched. The whole work was favoured by fine weather and a
+medium temperature of 20° to 9° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>On the 7th the young ice broke in front of us once more. The men were
+just busy sweeping the excellent skating-ground which they had found
+there, when a peculiar rustling and a violent movement of the thick
+ice betokened a storm from the north. Immediately it bulged and burst,
+forcing up each floe on its edge. This breaking up, heaving, and
+pressing, lasted about an hour, during which we watched it from the
+safe observatory of our field.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1042_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1042_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_105"><i>Page 105.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE LIVERPOOL COAST.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>On the 8th of October, shortly after the completion of the coal-house,
+such bad weather set in, with drifting snow, that would have made
+the continuation of it perfectly impossible, and in five days have
+completely destroyed both house and ship. On the middle and after part
+of the deck such drifts of snow had collected that it was <span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span>difficult
+to get from the cabin to the lodging. The young ice surrounding the
+Hansa was so heavily laden with the snowfall, that it gave way,
+loosening itself from the ship, and causing the sea-water to penetrate
+between the ice and the snow. At the same time it blew violently from
+the north; the thermometer stood at 9½° Fahr., and suddenly the wind
+with a rushing noise hurled the ship over to starboard, so that, owing
+to the impossibility of seeing farther than a few paces, we feared
+lest she might be driven from the field. The ropes were therefore with
+much trouble made fast to the ice-anchor, a work which took all the
+men more than an hour to accomplish. By the 13th, the storm had spent
+itself; it was once more clear, quiet weather, and we found ourselves
+sixteen nautical miles north-east from the Liverpool coast. It looked
+like a steep, jagged mountain chain, sparingly covered with snow.
+Greater quantities only appeared in the valleys and ravines. We could
+distinctly see the northern point, Cape Gladstone, and the outlying
+islands of Murray and Reynolds, as also a great part of the far distant
+southerly-stretching coast, which, according to the astronomical
+observations of the 14th to the 15th, lies in reality ten nautical
+miles more to the south than is given on Scoresby’s chart. The drift
+current on those days, from the 5th to the 14th of October, was very
+powerful. In this time we left seventy-two nautical miles behind us
+to south-south-west. The nights were remarkably cold, sometimes 4° F.
+below zero. The only sign of animal life was the frequent appearance of
+ravens (<i>Corvus corax</i>) in the neighbourhood of the ship, which
+doubtless were wintering on the coast. Once we saw a gull and a falcon;
+and now and then we were made<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> aware of the proximity of narwahls in
+the frozen channel by their blowing.</p>
+
+<p>On the 17th, in clear weather, three men, the carpenter Böwe, and the
+sailors Büttner and Heyne, undertook to reach the land, which was about
+ten nautical miles distant. They started at seven in the morning in a
+calm and 0° Fahr. After crossing many dangerous places in the young
+ice, some fields lay before them, over which they pressed forward to
+within four nautical miles from land. After three hours’ wandering,
+however, they had to halt, as a strip of water two nautical miles
+broad, and about the same breadth of land-ice running along the coast,
+blocked their way. At one o’clock, with a north wind and drifting snow,
+they started back to the ship, where we were already uneasy about them.
+On the 18th of October early, again clear and still frosty weather; but
+already at half-past eight a.m. the ice began to thrust and press round
+the ship. This unpleasant noise lasted until the afternoon. At regular
+intervals underneath, the ice, like a succession of waves, groaned and
+cracked, squashed and puffed; now sounding like the banging of doors,
+now like many human voices raised one against the other, and lastly,
+like a drag on the wheel of a railway engine. The evident immediate
+cause of this crushing was that our field had turned in drifting, and
+was now pressed closer to the coast-ice. The two floes of ice lying
+before the vessel received the hardest pressure, so that for a time
+the Hansa was spared, though trembling violently. The masts often
+swayed so much that it seemed as though some one was climbing them.
+At the same time our field sustained long and deep fissures, by which
+the whale-boat seemed so endangered,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span> that we thought it necessary for
+its safety to bring it alongside the ship. Towards evening the weather
+cleared again; but our fear that this day was only a forerunner of
+worse proved itself on the following day too well grounded. We were,
+however, busy with preparations for either case, viz., the wintering
+in the coal-house, supposing the ship should be lost, or remaining
+on board the ship itself. The store in the house was augmented by a
+barrel of bread and fuel (particularly wood); our fur clothing was
+rolled together and taken on deck from the winter lodging, where it
+had previously lain with other articles. This was soon to be used
+after fitting up our still missing berths. On moving the provisions,
+numbers of rats were found which had not yet deserted the ship. We
+little thought how much our preservation depended upon the fact that
+the following day the provisions had not yet been moved to their
+destination, the summer lodging, which had again to be emptied. By the
+evening the pressure had ceased; the air was quiet, but not clear;
+around the full moon, which cast a troubled uncertain light upon the
+fields and icebergs, a halo had formed; and in the cabin, as well as in
+the lodging, we sought to divert ourselves by playing at cards.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the 19th dawned, foretelling mischief with a N.N.W.
+storm of snow<a id="FNanchor_16" href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> and ice pressure. The air was gloomy and thick, and
+the coast, which was a little more than four miles distant, not to be
+seen. The first heavy pressure followed at ten a.m., though not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span> before
+noon did our position become serious. At this time, the constantly
+nearing, piled-up masses of young ice (about four feet thick) had
+broken up on the starboard side of the vessel, and pressed heavily on
+the outer side. The fore part of the ship rose somewhat, and would have
+risen more, had not the high ice-blocks prevented it; it had therefore
+to bear the whole weight of the pressure. A trial of the pumps in the
+meantime showed that she was still water-tight. Shortly before one
+o’clock, the deck-seams amidship sprang, but still she seemed tight.
+After this strong pressure followed a short pause, which we employed
+in taking our mid-day meal on deck. Below it was very uncomfortable.
+But soon some mighty blocks of ice pushed themselves under the bow of
+the vessel, and although they were crushed by it, they forced it up,
+slowly at first, then quicker, until it was raised 17 feet out of its
+former position upon the ice. This movement we tried to ease as much
+as possible by shovelling away the ice and snow from the larboard
+side. The rising of the ship was an extraordinary and awful, yet
+splendid spectacle, of which the whole crew were witnesses from the
+ice. In all haste the clothing, nautical instruments, journals, and
+cards were taken over the landing-bridge. The after part of the ship,
+unfortunately, would not rise; and therefore the stern-post had to bear
+the most frightful pressure, and the conviction that the ship must soon
+break up forced itself upon our minds.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1081_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1081_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_108"><i>Page 108.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE HANSA IN DISTRESS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>About five o’clock there was again a pause in the pressure of the
+ice-floes, and the raised ice retreated, so that in the course of an
+hour the ship, lying on her starboard side, glided into more open
+water. The hawsers, which had been cast loose, so as not to stop her
+from rising, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>were again made fast; after which we went to the pumps,
+and found that there were seventeen inches of water in the hold. We
+set them working at once, and about seven o’clock had the pleasure of
+finding them run more slowly. We now allowed ourselves time for our
+evening meal, for we might entertain the hope that, in spite of the
+frightful pressure she had sustained, our ship was not very leaky. But
+in a quarter of an hour’s time, we found to our terror, that there
+was again two feet of water in the pumps. Even admitting that part of
+this water had penetrated slowly from the after part, the ship must be
+dreadfully leaky. Again we set to work at the pumps, determined to do
+all in our power to rid our vessel of the water. A half-hour’s work,
+however, showed that all exertions were vain; the depth of the water
+in the cabin was increasing steadily, though slowly. The most careful
+investigation of the ship, however, did not reveal the position of the
+leak. In vain did both captain and steersman listen for the sound of
+water dripping. Evidently this was taking place at some part of the
+ship’s bottom, under the coal. Besides the leak in the stern-post, the
+keel must have sustained a fracture; perhaps even the ship’s sides near
+the floor-heads had been forced in. Enough! the fate of the Hansa was
+sealed; our good ship must go to the bottom! Calmly, though much moved,
+we faced this hard fact. The house of coal on the southward drifting
+ice-fields was destined now to be, through the long Arctic winter, our
+only place of refuge—perhaps too, our grave! There was not a minute’s
+time to be lost. The work went steadily forward. By nine p.m. the fall
+of snow had ceased; a clear, starry heaven shone down upon us, and
+the moon shed her light over the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> dreary ice-field. Now and again the
+northern lights shot upwards in ever-changing colours. At the same time
+it was freezing sharply, the thermometer marking in the night -13° F.
+One half of the men stayed by the pumps; the others were busily engaged
+until midnight, in bringing the most necessary articles from the vessel
+on to the floe. “As to sleep,” writes Dr. Buchholz in his day-book,
+“that was not to be thought of, as the idea of our dreadful position
+was whirling through my head in the wildest manner. What would become
+of us when winter really set in, if it already announced its approach
+with such bitter cold? In vain did I try to think of any means of
+preservation. An attempt to reach the land could not be entertained
+for a moment. It might be possible to make our way through great
+dangers over the floes and fields to the coast; but at the uttermost
+we could only provide ourselves with nourishment for a few days.
+Esquimaux settlements, according to Scoresby’s experience, were not to
+be expected; so that the idea of dying of hunger seemed very near us.
+There remained, then, nothing for it, but to try and hold out in the
+coal-hut on the southward-drifting field. If it held together, we might
+hope to reach a South Greenland Esquimaux settlement in the spring, or
+(which was very unlikely) get across the icy belt to Iceland.”</p>
+
+<p>One great evil with the pumps was, that the water streaming on the deck
+could not, owing to the uneven position of the vessel, run off through
+the scuppers, which were filled up with ice; and thus it froze between
+the provision-chests. Soon the whole of the after-deck was full of
+ice; the water which was pumped up stood round the pumps, and the men
+who worked them had to stand<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> in tubs in order to keep dry. To make
+a way for it to escape, we had to make holes in the bulwarks; though
+without any particular result, as from the intense cold the water came
+out quite in a half-frozen state. At the same time the ice settled so
+over the cabin skylight, that the water penetrated through the chinks.
+The night allowed our exhausted men some hours of refreshing sleep;
+then all gladly drained a cup of hot coffee, and set to work again.
+But the catastrophe was near! At eight a.m. the men who were busy in
+the fore-peak getting out firewood came with anxious faces, with the
+news that the wood was already floating below. When the captain had
+ascertained the truth of this intelligence, he ordered the pumping to
+cease. It was evident that the ship was sinking, and that it must be
+abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>The first thing to be done was to bring all necessary and useful
+things from the ’tween decks on to the ice; bedding, clothing, more
+provisions, and coal. Silently were all the heavy chests and barrels
+pushed over the hatchway. First comes the weighty iron galley, then
+the two stoves are happily hoisted over; their possession ensures us
+the enjoyment of warm food, the heating of our coal-house, and other
+matters indispensable for a wintering on the floe. At three o’clock,
+the water in the cabin had reached the table, and all movable articles
+were floating. The fear that we should not have enough fuel made us
+grasp at every loose piece of wood and throw it on to the ice. The
+sinking of the vessel was now almost imperceptible, it must have found
+support on a tongue of ice or some promontory of our field. There was
+still a small medicine chest, and a few other things, which, in our
+future position, would be great treasures,—such as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span> the cabin-lamp,
+books, cigars, boxes of games, &amp;c. The snow-roof, too, and the sails
+were brought on to the ice; but still all necessary work was not yet
+accomplished. Round about the ship lay a chaotic mass of heterogeneous
+articles, and groups of feeble rats struggling with death, and
+trembling with the cold! All articles, for greater safety, must be
+conveyed over a fissure to about thirty paces farther inland. The
+galley we at once took on a sledge to the house, as we should want it
+to give us warm coffee in the evening. We then looked after the sailor
+Max Schmidt, who was suffering from frost bite, and brought him on
+planks under the fur covering to the coal-house. By nine a.m. all were
+in the new asylum, which was lit by the cabin-lamp, and looked like
+a dreary tomb. Pleased with the completion of our heavy day’s work,
+though full of trouble for the future, we prepared our couch. A number
+of planks were laid upon the ground, and sail-cloth spread over them.
+Upon these we lay down, rolled in our furs. A man remained to watch
+the stove, as the temperature in the room had risen from 2° Fahr, to
+27½° F. It was a hard, cold bed; but sleep soon fell upon our weary
+over-worked limbs. On the morning of the 21st we went again to the ship
+to get more fuel. The coal-hole was, however, under water. We therefore
+chopped down the masts, and hauled them, with the whole of the tackle,
+on to the ice, a work which took us nearly the whole day. At eleven,
+the foremast fell; at three, the mainmast followed, and now the Hansa
+really looked a complete, comfortless wreck. For the last time, the
+captain and steersman went on deck, and about six o’clock loosed the
+ropes, which, by means of the ice-anchor, held the ship to the field,
+as we feared that our <span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span>floe, which bore all our treasures, being so
+near the sinking vessel, might break. All, even the two scientific men,
+were instinctively bent on the means for our preservation, so that the
+collections, contained in bottles, boxes, and chests, as well as the
+photographic apparatus, together with all the finished photographs
+belonging to the first officer, Mr. Hildebrandt, were sacrificed! This
+loss often troubled us; but from the great difficulty of transport on
+the boat journey in the spring, we must have left the greater part
+behind. Our work of self-preservation was wonderfully favoured by the
+weather; for from the evening of the 19th to the 20th it was calm and
+clear. On the night of the 21st to the 22nd, the wreck sank in 70° 52´
+N. Lat. and 21° W. Long. about six miles from the Liverpool coast. We
+distinctly saw its cliffs and mountains, which, according to Dr. Laube,
+resembled the Chalky Alps near Munich. We recognized Halloway Bay
+and Glasgow Island, but nowhere a way through the icy labyrinth! The
+jolly-boat, King William, stood loose upon the deck; so that, by the
+sinking of the Hansa, it remained above water, and as the weather was
+still fine, we drew this third means of preservation on to the ice near
+the coal-house.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1121_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1121_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_112"><i>Page 112.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">WRECK OF THE HANSA.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The next few days we set zealously to work to make our black house
+somewhat more habitable. The increased heat of the house caused the
+sail-cloth roof to leak, from the quantity of snow lying upon it, and
+we therefore passed a bad night. We rectified that, however, by a
+plank roofing covered with more sail-cloth. In order to satisfy our
+urgent need for light and air, we made a dormer-window in the roof, and
+later on a second. In spite of all this, we could not do without the
+light of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> lamp for the greater part of the day. Along the whole
+length on both sides of the room, we raised a bed of boards to sleep
+upon, and laid the sacks of straw upon it. It was six inches above the
+floor, and we then put boards down the middle. To prevent the pillows
+from freezing to the wall, we had to make a wooden lining along that
+part. The cooking-stove had its place behind, a smaller one stood
+more forward. Along the walls, which were covered with sail-cloth,
+shelves were placed, on which we laid our books, instruments, and
+cooking vessels. The ship’s chests at the foot of the sleeping places
+along the passage, served both as tables and stools. The gilt-framed
+looking-glass from the cabin adorned the back wall, underneath which
+hung a costly barometer, and the accustomed ticking of the clock was to
+be heard. By all these orderly arrangements, the comfort of our stay
+in the coal-house would be greatly enhanced. A healthy sleep refreshed
+us more than anything else; and, thanks to our excellent preserves, we
+could strengthen ourselves with the meat soup which the cook prepared.
+The dread of immediate danger to life had departed; we breathed more
+freely, we felt once more at liberty, and even remembered many comical
+scenes from our experiences on the 19th, with laughter and joking. In
+the evening we had the usual whist, and as we had no table, played on a
+volume of the ship’s journal.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1141_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1141_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">GROUND-PLAN OF THE “HANSA” HOUSE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1144_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1144_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_115"><i>Page 115.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE HANSA HOUSE ON THE FLOE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The greater part of the provisions and fuel, together with the boats,
+lay not far from the shipwreck. These were conveyed up for the most
+part on sledges, and took several days to accomplish. All was then
+stacked near the house. As the depth of snow reached up to the walls,
+we dug a four-feet-broad walk round the house, <span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span>covering it with
+sail-cloth, and strewing the snow upon it to make it more solid. This
+walk was our larder, and held nearly all our provisions; whilst the
+remainder (enough for about two months) was carefully placed in the
+boats. The small firewood which we chopped up from the masts and spars
+was set up in piles; the boats, first in one place and then in another,
+as after digging them out of the snow we had to put them in a more
+sheltered spot.</p>
+
+<p>The hatchway we put up to catch the wind before the door of the
+coal-house. A man-rope served for descending into the house, so that
+it was more like a fox’s hole with its roof scarcely rising above the
+level of the snow than anything else.</p>
+
+<p>The large flag was saved too. At the rear of the house, on a snow-hill,
+we put up the topgallant mast as a flagstaff; and in fine weather
+hoisted it for our pleasure as well as for the possible chance of
+attracting the notice of any Esquimaux settlement on the coast.</p>
+
+<p>At last, by degrees, order gained the upper hand. The confused heap
+of individual belongings had each found their owner. The warming
+arrangement was good, for in an atmospheric temperature of -13° Fahr.
+we could in our hut, with the protection of the snow surrounding us,
+get a warmth of 72½°. Often the firing necessary for preparing the
+meals was sufficient also for heating; and therefore, to spare the
+wood, we hardly ever used the second stove. The damp was remarkably
+diminished, for it easily escaped through the dormer-window, which also
+let in fresh air.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br>
+<span class="subhed">DRIFTING TO THE SOUTH. CHRISTMAS. A HARD JANUARY. NOVEMBER, 1869, TO
+THE END OF JANUARY, 1870.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">View of the coast.—Settling the daily order of our life on the
+floe.—Good health of all.—Revolving of our ice-field.—We
+come within four miles of the coast (Egede’s Land).—Christmas
+festival.—An iceberg passes us.—Danger of the breaking up of
+the floe.—Preparations for decamping.—Portions of the floe
+destroyed.—The dangerous bay.—Coast scenery.—Impossibility
+of reaching the coast.—The Arctic night.—Catastrophes of
+the days 11th to 15th of January.—Destruction of the Hansa
+house.—Escape in the boats, and passing the night in the
+same.—Comfortless quarters.—Erection of new habitations.—In
+the channel between Iceland and Greenland.—Snow-wall on the
+floe.—Hope of reaching the settlements of West Greenland.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Slowly but steadily our ice-field drifted to the south. By the 3rd of
+November we had passed the Liverpool coast, and had reached Scoresby’s
+Sound, sometimes being near the firm land ice, and sometimes far from
+it, a movement which would no doubt originate in the ebb and flow
+off this large, deep sound. We could distinctly see the picturesque
+formation of the rocky coast; and in two plains lying between two
+rugged mountain-tops we thought we could distinguish glaciers covered
+with snow. Since the ship had sunk fourteen days before, the ice had
+closed in upon us, and even the blocks which had broken away from our
+field had frozen to it again. Our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> eyes often rested with sorrow on
+the spot where the Hansa went down. Now there was room enough for her
+between the field and the land-ice!</p>
+
+<p>At the end of October the sun rose at half-past nine a.m., and set
+behind the rocky coast at three p.m. In the coal-house we could only
+see to read and write under the dormer-windows for a few hours each
+day. We grew more and more accustomed to the daily round of things,
+which so much resembled that on board. The last night-watch woke us
+at seven. We rose, threw on our woollen clothing, washed in melted
+snow, and enjoyed our morning coffee with hard bread. Then we all
+betook ourselves to the ever-plentiful stock of work; the finishing
+of all sorts of useful and still wanting furniture, sail-sewing,
+wood-chopping, replacing clothes from the clothes-store, keeping the
+diaries, and study. In clear weather astronomical observations were
+taken, and all necessary calculations recorded. At one we dined. Strong
+meat-soup formed the substantial part of this meal; and as we were in
+no want of preserved vegetables, we had plenty of changes prepared for
+us. Of salt meat and bacon we eat little. Of all spirits we had to
+be very sparing, only allowing ourselves one glass of strengthening
+port-wine on Sundays. Our state of health all through the winter
+was good. Except the sailor Schmidt’s attack of fever when the ship
+went down, which was soon over, and a frost-bitten toe of the sailor
+Büttner, we had no sickness or other bodily discomfort. We were always
+actively employed, and daily order and regularity were rigidly kept up.</p>
+
+<p>Our floe was by degrees thoroughly investigated in every quarter. We
+cleared roads, and set up marks for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> short tours. The mass of ice
+was about seven nautical miles in circumference, and seemed in all
+directions to have a diameter of about a little more than two miles.</p>
+
+<p>An excellent picture of the monotony of the landscape which surrounded
+us at the end of the year (end of December and January), can be formed
+by imagining a uniform plain, or field, covered with snow. The term
+“<i>field</i>” indicates the size of a connected floating mass of ice.
+Smaller pieces are called “floes,” and still smaller ones “drifts.” The
+ice-raft, on which (as Dr. Laube aptly remarked) “we were as the Lord’s
+passengers,” drifting for months together between the sea and the
+coast, was a solid field composed of these drifts and floes compacted
+together. The average thickness of this was about five feet above the
+water; a fact which, according to experience, would allow a submergence
+of at least forty feet. Soundings from the edge of the ice were not
+possible, as the line was lost in the shipwreck. The piled-up snow,
+which was often eight feet high, had at this time, the beginning of
+January, filled up every hole and crack on the field; so that, without
+one single resting-point, the eye wandered over the wearying uniform
+white desert. If we were at any distance from the hut, so deeply buried
+in the snow, every visible sign had disappeared except the dark spot
+or line of the chimney, the boats, and the staff with the fluttering
+flag, which after every whirlwind of snow was again unfurled. Later
+in the spring, when the greater part of our field had disappeared,
+the plain looked, owing to the pushed-up pieces of ice and snow-wall,
+almost like animated blocks of ice. Upon closer inspection these
+“ramparts” seemed to be the fragments of the pushed-up walls of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> small
+ice-masses, to which our field had been knitted by the frost. Here and
+there were snow-mounds, which the change from thawing weather to frost
+had almost turned into glaciers, forming a firm massive whole. The side
+of our field lying to the west and north-west presented a wild and
+discouraging view. The grating and pressing of the driving ice-floes
+had there heaped up walls ten feet high, the snow-crystals glittering
+in the sun like millions of diamonds. The morning and evening Aurora
+turned the white flakes to pale green. The nights were beautifully
+light, the light streaming downwards from the heavens; and the snow,
+with its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span> receptive and reflective powers glittered so radiantly, that
+one could read the finest writing without trouble, and see far out
+into the distance. Amongst other things, on such nights, we always
+saw the Aurora borealis. As an instance, on the 5th of December, it
+shone so intensely that the starlight waned, and objects on our field
+cast shadows. The coast, according as it was near or far away, was
+recognizable now as a dark streak of fog, and now as a rocky form in
+all its details.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1190_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1190_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">A SNOW SPHINX.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Our settlement at the beginning of November, when we were not yet
+snowed up, might be seen from the most distant point of our field. Near
+the chief building lay two snow-houses, which served for washing and
+drying ourselves. Boats, heaps of wood, barrels containing coals and
+bacon, surrounded this heart of our colony.</p>
+
+<p>To prevent the entrance of the snow and wind into our coal-house, we
+built an entrance-hall with a winding path, and a roof constructed in
+the same way as that of the house.</p>
+
+<p>At the beginning of November we observed two strange natural phenomena.
+We were about eight nautical miles from the Liverpool coast, when, as
+we were walking along, a number of small willow-like leaves whirled
+around us, which had evidently been carried from the land by the wind;
+at another place the snow was, for a considerable distance, covered
+with a red-stone dust. Dr. Laube thought it must be of volcanic origin,
+and that it had been carried through the air from Iceland, which was
+about 180 nautical miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>In November, upon a neighbouring floe, separated from us by a small
+piece of frozen water, we saw the shapeless body of a large walrus
+lying motionless as a rock. The steersmen, Hildebrandt and Bade, with
+some others,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> started for the chase as soon as the boat could be got
+into the water, which was done with much trouble, they being obliged
+to carry it for some distance over the young ice. Here, too, the
+needle-gun proved its value, the ball passing through the monster’s
+inch-thick hide. A few shots killed him, after being badly wounded, and
+in a fury trying to smash the young ice on which the hunters stood, and
+seize them when once in the water. The further moving of the colossal
+carcass for our own purposes was, besides, no small matter. With the
+united strength of ten men and the help of a powerful pulley, it was
+several hours before we got the walrus out of the water on to the ice.</p>
+
+<p>Skinning the specimen, too, was dreadfully difficult, for it soon froze
+in a cold of -20° Fahr. to a hard, stony mass, over which we had no
+power. Under the skin lay a coating three inches thick of fat, which
+afforded us very acceptable fuel. The tongue was excellent; indeed,
+amongst the whale-fishers of the Behring’s Straits, salted walrus
+tongues are a favourite dish. Late that same evening a white bear, the
+first of our winter campaign, was attracted to the house by the smell
+of our walrus’ fat. Three shots greeted him, the effect of which could
+not be seen until the following morning. About 100 yards distant lay
+the bear, hit in the side by the bullet, as if asleep, though quite
+dead, upon the snow. It was a fine, handsome beast; its well-developed
+head lay upon its front paws; the red drops of blood stood sharply
+out against the clean white snow: a gift from heaven in our present
+position, as an addition of fresh meat was greatly to be desired.
+The four hams, weighing 200 lbs., would form a delicate roast for a
+succession of Sundays; at the same time that the skin was a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span> further
+protection for the still sometimes leaking roof. Some days later we had
+another visit from master “Bruin.” As we left the house on the 23rd of
+November, we noticed several traces of his presence; he had been at the
+boat Bismarck, and standing on his hind feet had sniffed the provisions
+lying there, when he had met with the misfortune of falling through
+the tightly-spread, stiffly-frozen sail-cloth. Terrified by this from
+the investigation of the contents of the boat, he had turned to the
+house, at the entrance of which we found his marks. The brightness
+of the lamp, always burning in the snow path, had then (we supposed)
+frightened him.</p>
+
+<p>In the beginning of November our drifting was considerable; from the
+5th to the 13th of November it amounted daily to eight nautical miles;
+from 70° N.L. and 21° W.L. to 69° 4·5′ N.L. and 22° 44′ W.L. At this
+time the bright northern lights afforded us daily an agreeable matter
+for conversation. The dazzling-coloured rays stretched perpendicularly
+over the whole horizon, sometimes undulating like the folds of a giant
+curtain set in motion by the wind. The down-shooting colours seemed to
+touch our field, emitting such a blinding light that our shadows were
+sharply defined, and the light of the stars greatly weakened. When,
+as was oftentimes the case, the beautiful appearance was suddenly
+manifested, it went slowly through different forms to the height of its
+glory.</p>
+
+<p>The rotatory motion of our field was, up to the 22nd of November,
+rather slow, as from the 10th it had only turned once round. The
+quicker drift-current had been more effectual in its working, and had
+brought about this revolution in the short space of four days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span></p>
+
+<p>Moreover, until the beginning of January our ice-mass had experienced
+no damage. On the 14th of November we passed in our southward journey
+the most southerly point, according to Scoresby, of this stretch of
+coast, Cape Barclay, lying in 69° 14′ N.L. and 24° 30′ W.L. From
+this time to the most northerly point of Graah’s coast-journey, Cape
+Dan, lying in 65° 37′ N.L. and 37° 20′ W.L., we saw an unknown land,
+the so-called “Egede’s Land.” We succeeded at least in determining
+some points of this coast, which we approached within four miles.
+Unfortunately the very time we found ourselves nearest to it our lives
+were in great danger, our ill fate following us here, and we were
+obliged to allow the favourable moment for serving science to pass by
+unheeded.</p>
+
+<p>From the 2nd to the 4th of November we floated past Scoresby’s Sound.
+The discoverer of this rather considerable Fjord relates that by the
+strength of a submarine current icebergs are frequently driven from it.
+And, indeed, whilst up to this time we had been unable to catch sight
+of one, we saw on the 5th (after having evidently passed through the
+current and out of the Sound, being about ten to fifteen nautical miles
+from the coast some days later) for the first time a great iceberg in
+the north-west towards Scoresby’s Sound, about four nautical miles from
+us.</p>
+
+<p>Icebergs are known to be broken portions of glaciers. That seen by us
+was rather long but not high, allowing us to conclude that the original
+had considerable breadth but no great height.</p>
+
+<p>The temperature in November and December showed great variations:
+6th November, -20° Fahr., fine weather with a west wind; 20th, 32°
+Fahr. with driving snow to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> the south-west, and, later, fine rain;
+evening of the 1st December, 32.2° Fahr.; 3rd December, 35° Fahr., our
+snow-buildings began to thaw; 18th December, -20° Fahr. with a light
+sou’-wester, and the lowest temperature we ever had, being then in 67½°
+N.L.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th of December, we greeted a white Arctic fox as a messenger
+from land. Its appearance was indisputable evidence that the ice
+reached to the coast. The fox, white with a black-tipped tail, was
+particularly confiding, even bold. He scratched up the bear’s flesh
+buried in the snow, and had carried it off to eat as we approached him.
+He then quite unconstrainedly took a walk on the roof of our house,
+and through the small window convinced himself as to what was going on
+within. Should we shoot it? No! It was a long time since we had seen
+such a fearless creature. At times we placed nets with a meat-bait
+to teaze him; but he always managed to get clear of them at the
+right time. November and December passed without anything particular
+happening. On the 13th of December strong northern lights. On the
+18th the full moon and spring tide occurred, and with them, the usual
+ice pressure which, in the night of the 20th to the 21st, destroyed
+“Sinai,” the locality of one of our walks. On the afternoon of the 6th,
+a small white bear showed himself near our house. We fired, and it fled
+over the young ice, leaving traces of blood behind it.</p>
+
+<p>Thus we had passed the shortest day without any serious danger.
+Christmas, that beautiful domestic festival, drew near, and we felt
+inclined, as we were all in good health, to keep it right festively in
+the proper spirit. During the last few days we had had violent storms.
+On<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> Christmas Eve there was a heavy fall of snow which buried our house
+so completely, that in the morning we could walk over the roof as over
+a flat surface. In the night from the first to the second day of the
+holiday, showers of rain fell, followed by a south-westerly breeze.
+Then another whirlwind of snow. The mass of falling snow whirled over
+the field by the rushing wind was so great, that in the open air we
+could scarcely keep our eyes open, and in spite of our exertions, it
+was impossible to keep the front of our house clear.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, whilst we went for a walk, the steersmen put up
+the Christmas-tree; and on our return the lonely coal-hut shone with
+wonderful brightness. Keeping Christmas on a Greenland floe! Made of
+pinewood and birchbroom, the tree was artistically put together. For
+the lights, Dr. Laube had saved some wax candles. Paper-chains and
+home-baked gingerbread were not wanting. The men had made a knapsack
+and a revolver case for the captain; we opened the leaden box of
+Christmas gifts from Professor Hochstetter, and the other from the
+Geological Reichsanstalt, which caused much merriment. Then we had a
+glass of port-wine, and fell upon the old newspapers in the boxes, and
+distributed the gifts, which consisted of small musical instruments,
+such as whistles, Jew’s-harps, and trumpets, also little puppets and
+games of roulette, cracker bonbons, &amp;c. In the evening, chocolate and
+gingerbread-nuts. “In quiet devotion” (says Dr. Laube in his day-book),
+“the festival passed by; the thoughts which passed through our minds
+(they were much alike with all), I will not put down. If this should be
+the last Christmas we were to see, it was at least bright enough. If,
+however,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> we are destined for a happy return home, the next will be a
+brighter one; may God grant it!”</p>
+
+<p>Early on the 26th, we were awoke by a shout from the sailor on the
+watch. We were drifting to land! an island straight ahead of us! Amid
+universal consternation, all rushed out. The air was not clear, but
+about three nautical miles distant we could distinguish a dark mass,
+which looked like an island. The steersmen went somewhat in advance to
+reconnoitre the distance, and the nature of the appearance. The mass
+gave no indication whatever, and we soon made out that what we saw was
+an enormous iceberg. The next day we passed the drifting mass, moving
+much slower than our field, and soon lost sight of it. Saint Sylvester
+we kept up exactly as they do at home, with salvos of fire-arms and
+punch; and at midnight we did not forget mutual good wishes for the
+“New Year,” with the loud clink of the glasses.</p>
+
+<p>These good wishes, so often nothing but a polite formula, came here
+from the heart. Wonderful as our preservation in great dangers had been
+up to this time, we each felt how greatly we needed God’s support for
+the future, in strength, endurance, and health.</p>
+
+<p>The new year, at 16° Fahr., brought us the first clear, fine weather we
+had had for a long while. The land between north-east and south-west,
+was beautifully in sight; high sharp mountains and small glaciers. In
+the west-sou’-west we saw the dark outline of an island, the position
+of which was about 66° 14′ N.L. and 33° 45, W.L. as near as could be
+determined. The 2nd of January brought frightfully bad weather; storm
+from the northnor’-east<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span> and continual driving snow at 16° to 14° Fahr.
+In the morning, we thought we heard a peculiar rustling noise as if
+some one was shuffling his feet on the floor; but as it was soon over
+we took no further notice. In the afternoon, as we were resting after
+dinner, we suddenly heard the same rustle, but much louder. It was a
+scraping, blustering, crackling, sawing, grating, and jarring sound, as
+if some unhappy ghost was wandering under our floe. Perplexed we all
+jumped up, and went out; we thought that our store-house had fallen in.
+Some of the sailors going in front with the lamp carefully searched
+the path to it. But in whatever direction the light fell on the
+sparkling and glittering ice-walls, we saw nothing. Immovable hung the
+rigid icicles often a foot long; evidently nothing was amiss here. We
+rummaged in the snow-path before the house. Although completely snowed
+up (indeed, the whole house was buried more than a foot deep in ice),
+we all rushed out, but of course we could not see more than ten steps,
+nor hear anything but the howling of the storm. Still, between whiles,
+we could detect the same rubbing and grinding. For a change, we laid
+ourselves flat down with our ears to the floor, and could then hear a
+rustling like the singing of ice when closely jammed, and as if water
+was running under our great floe. There could be no doubt but that it
+stood in great danger of being smashed to pieces, either from drifting
+over sunken rocks and bursting up, or breaking against the ice border;
+perhaps both at once.</p>
+
+<p>We packed our furs, and filled our knapsacks with provisions. Our
+position, if the floe should be destroyed, seemed hopeless. Certainly
+ropes were fastened from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> house to the boats lying about fifteen
+steps from us, so that, in case of a catastrophe, we might be able
+to reach them. But the driving snow was so terrible, that we could
+not have moved them from the spot, and we should no doubt, soon have
+sunk in the depths. At eight, we set a sharp watch of two men in the
+pathway. The remainder stretched themselves on the sacks to sleep, as
+the unearthly rustling was no longer heard. It was a long, stormy,
+fearful night, allowing no one to sleep. At nine the longed-for
+twilight appeared and an hour later the wind abated a little. Some of
+us went out in the direction of the quay; for thus we had christened
+the spot, 500 steps from the house, where the sunken Hansa lay. They
+there found a new wall of ice, and recognized to their horror that this
+wall was now the boundary of our floe, whilst on all sides of it large
+pieces had been broken off, and rose in dark shapeless masses out of
+the drifted snow. The bad weather lasted with undiminished violence
+till two in the afternoon. On the morning of the 4th of January it had
+completely worn itself out; the air was clear, and allowed an open view
+over the ice-field to the coast. Our floe had lost considerably in
+circumference, and changed its round form into a long one. The diameter
+which before was two nautical miles, was now at the utmost but one. On
+three sides, our house was only 200 steps from the edge of the floe.
+On the fourth it was about 1000 where before it had been 3000. The
+distance to the coast amounted to scarcely two nautical miles. Besides
+the island seen on the 1st of January, we caught a glimpse of several
+others with different pyramidically rising cliffs in the north-west. We
+named them the “New Year’s Islands,” as we had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span> seen the first on the
+1st of January. They lay near the east cape of a deep bay which, from
+the never-to-be-forgotten danger we had passed through, we christened
+“Bay of Horrors.” In the background rose snow-covered mountains,
+which by the rising sun were lit up with a beautiful Alpine glow, and
+here and there in the bay were small glaciers visible. The extreme
+land to the south-west stood out as a steep cape, which we called
+Cape Buchholz; another to the west (Hildebrandt) was close to us,
+only two nautical miles off; that is the nearest land. We thus found
+ourselves in the mouth of the bay. After the dangers gone through, and
+as our ice-raft seemed to afford us less security than formerly, it
+was proposed that we should make an attempt to get to the coast with
+the boats, and sufficient provisions, so as to have some prospect of
+reaching the inhabited part of Greenland, the south-westerly side, in
+the mild time of year. But unfortunately, we found that we could get no
+further than the edge of our field. Short broken fragments succeeded,
+so covered over with snow, that one could see neither the gaps or
+crevasses. To get to the coast from here seemed impracticable, and, as
+before, our ice-field was our only means of deliverance.</p>
+
+<p>The following days were pretty good. We got the boats out of the snow,
+dug out the firewood, and made swimming jackets and snow-shoes out of
+cork, to prevent ourselves sinking up to the hips as we used to do.</p>
+
+<p>As we had already observed, and it now was confirmed, the pressing
+and the quick drifting of the ice depended on the spring-tides, which
+happen here from ten to fifteen hours after the new and full moon.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th of January, we once more obtained an observation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> for
+position, and found we were in 66° 47·2′ N.L., and 34° 1·5′ W.L.,
+so that from the 27th of December, that is in twelve days, we had
+travelled 52½ nautical miles south-west to west three-quarter west. As
+we lay almost still in the bay, great and small icebergs floated out to
+sea coming from the north, on the highway from East Greenland to the
+south.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th of January one of the sailors writes thus in his day-book:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p class="r2">“Thursday, 9th of January, 1870. Northern Hotel.</p>
+
+<p>“The weather in the past night was calm and clear. The moon
+shone brilliantly; the northern lights and the stars glittered
+upon the dead beauty of a landscape of ice and snow. Listening
+at night, a strange, clear-sounding tone strikes the ear, then
+again a sound as of some one drawing near with slow and measured
+steps. We listen—who is it? All still! not a breath stirring!
+Once more it sounds like a lamentation or a groan. It is the
+ice; and now it is still, still as the grave, and from the pale
+glance of the moon the ghastly-outlined coast is seen, from
+which the giant rocks are looking over to us. Ice, rocks, and
+thousands of glittering stars. O thou wonderfully ghost-like
+night of the north!”</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The days from the 11th to the 15th of January were destined to bring
+us new horrors. On the 11th, heavy storm from the north-east with
+driving snow. At six in the morning Hildebrandt, who happened to
+have the watch, burst in with the alarm, “All hands turn out!” An
+indescribable tumult was heard without. With furs and knapsacks all
+rushed out. But the outer entrance was snowed up; so to gain the
+outside quickly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> we broke through the snow-roof of the front hall. The
+tumult of the elements which met us there was beyond anything we had
+already experienced. Scarcely able to leave the spot, we stood huddled
+together for protection from the bad weather. Suddenly we heard, “Water
+on the floe close by!” The floe surrounding us split up; a heavy sea
+arose. Our field again began to break on all sides. On the spot between
+our house and the piled-up store of wood which was about twenty-five
+paces distant, there suddenly opened a huge gap. Washed by the powerful
+waves, it seemed as if the piece just broken off was about to fall
+upon us; and at the same time we felt the rising and falling of our
+now greatly reduced floe. All seemed lost. From our split-up ice-field
+all the firewood was drifting into the raging sea. And in like manner
+we had nearly lost our boat Bismarck; even the whale-boat was obliged
+to be brought for safety into the middle of the floe. The large boat,
+being too heavy to handle, we were obliged to give up entirely. All
+this in a temp. of -9½°, and a heavy storm, was an arduous piece of
+work. The community were divided into two parts. We bade each other
+good-bye with a farewell shake of the hands, for the next moment we
+might go down. Deep despondency had taken hold of our scientific
+friends; the crew were still and quiet. Thus we stood or cowered by our
+boats the whole day, the fine pricking snow penetrating through the
+clothes to the skin. It was a miracle that just that part of the floe
+on which we stood should from its soundness keep together. Our floe,
+now only 150 feet in diameter, was the 35 to 40 feet nucleus of the
+formerly extensive field to which we had entrusted our preservation.
+Towards evening the masses of ice became closely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> packed again. At
+the same time the heavy sea had subsided and immediate danger seemed
+past. Relieved, we partook of something in the house and lay down,
+after setting a good watch. It was past midnight, when we were roused
+from our sleep by a cry of terror; the voice of the sailor on watch
+exclaiming, “Turn out; we are drifting on to a high iceberg!” All
+rushed to the entrance; dressed we always were; we had no time to run
+through the long snow passage, but burst open the roof, climbed on to
+the door, and so out. What a sight! Close upon us, as if hanging over
+our heads, towered a huge mass of ice, of giant proportions. “It is
+past,” said the captain. Was it really an iceberg, or the mirage of
+one, or the high coast? We could not decide the question. Owing to the
+swiftness of the drift, the ghastly object had disappeared the next
+moment.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th and 13th, the weather was good. The boats, now that the
+masts and sails were thrown out, so that we could move them more
+easily, were put in order, and the snow shovelled up. On the 12th,
+we were able to ascertain our latitude by a lunar altitude. We found
+ourselves in 65° 50·7′ N.L., so that in four days we had drifted
+fifty-six miles southward.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1321_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1321_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_132"><i>Page 132.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ICEBERGS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1324_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1324_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_133"><i>Page 133.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">BIVOUAC IN BOATS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>It was on the evening of the 14th of January, at ten o’clock; outside
+blew a frightful storm; the watch came in with news that the ice was
+once more in motion. In the immediate neighbourhood of the house, our
+floe burst; and the broken ice flew high around us. It was high time
+to bring the boat Bismarck and the whale-boat more into the middle.
+This we did; but they were far too heavily laden to bring further.
+On this account, furs, sacks of bread, and clothing were taken out
+and <span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span>packed on two sledges, which were, however, soon completely
+snowed up. All our labour was rendered heavier by the storm, which
+made it almost impossible to breathe. About eleven we experienced a
+sudden fissure which threatened to tear our house asunder; with a
+thundering noise an event took place, the consequences of which, in
+the first moments, deranged all calculations. God only knows how it
+happened that, in our flight into the open, none came to harm. But
+there in the most fearful weather we all stood roofless on the ice,
+waiting for daylight, which was still ten hours off. The boat King
+William lay on the edge of the floe, and might have floated away at any
+moment. Fortunately the fissure did not get larger. As it was somewhat
+quieter at midnight, most of the men crept into the captain’s boat,
+when the thickest sail we had was drawn over them; some took refuge
+in the house. But there, as the door had fallen in, they entered by
+the skylight, and in the hurry broke the panes of glass, so that it
+was soon full of snow. This night was the most dreadful one of our
+adventurous voyage on the floe. The cold was -9½° Fahr. Real sleep, at
+least in the boat, was not to be thought of; it was but a confused,
+unquiet, half-slumber, which overpowered us from utter weariness, and
+our limbs quivered convulsively as we lay packed like herrings in our
+furs. The cook had, in spite of all, found energy enough in the morning
+to make the coffee in the house, and never had the delicious drink
+awakened more exhausted creatures to life. The bad weather raged the
+whole day. We lay in the boat, half in water, half in snow, shivering
+with the frost, and wet to the skin. We also passed the night of the
+15th to the 16th, in the same comfortless position, and only on the
+morning of the 16th<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> did the weather begin to mend, allowing us to
+leave the shelter of our asylum.</p>
+
+<p>At four in the morning, the second officer, to whom a longer stay in
+the boat was painful, caught sight of a star, and with a thankful
+heart brought us news of the good sign. The driving snow had not quite
+left off, but one could at least take breath. Our first steps were
+directed to the boat King William, which lay on the other side of the
+half-foot-broad fissure running through the house. It was brought to
+the flagstaff near the two other boats, which were fast frozen in,
+in spite of all the storm. We provided this conveyance with a roof
+of boards, covered with sail-cloth, and six of the men made it their
+sleeping apartment, whilst the house was cleared from the snow.</p>
+
+<p>For five nights we slept in the boats. The days to the 19th were
+employed, it being tolerable weather, in raising our settlement from
+its ruins, and laying the foundations of a necessary and satisfactory
+abode. Soon a wooden kitchen was built. A new dwelling-house, exactly
+like the one destroyed, but only half as big (14 feet long, 10 broad,
+6½ high in the middle), was built, with all requisite arrangements,
+store room, wooden beds, stove and window, and so on. Unfortunately the
+first night we moved in being stormy weather, the roof flew off; the
+inside was at once filled with snow, and we had to migrate to the boats
+once more. The mischief was repaired on the following day. As there
+was only sleeping room in our new house for six men, the rest from
+this time had to sleep in the boats. Throughout all the discomfort,
+want, hardship, danger of all kinds, the frame of mind among the men
+was good, undaunted, and exalted. The cook kept a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> right seamanlike
+humour, even in the most critical moments. As long as he had tobacco
+he made no trouble of anything. On the 3rd of January, during the
+frightful pressure of the ice which destroyed our floe, and threatened
+every minute to sink our house, the cook happened to be repairing the
+coffee-kettle. “If the floe would only hold together until he had
+finished his kettle! he wished so to make the evening tea in it, so
+that, before our departure, we might have something warm.”</p>
+
+<p>Toilet and cleanliness have long since become uncertain ideas with
+us. Washing is a luxury, which at the uttermost we can only allow
+ourselves twice a week, and which the scientific men have quite given
+up. The coal-walls of our house, smoke from the lamp, and dust from
+the stove have so blackened us, that we might be taken for some of the
+choicest Esquimaux. Hair and beard were intact from the time we left
+Bremen. Weeks have passed since the clothes have left our bodies. The
+temperature in the first three weeks of the new year, so pregnant with
+interest for us, may on the whole be thus characterized:—that, with
+northerly and north-easterly winds, which were generally accompanied
+by violently drifting snow, it was tolerably mild, between 23° F. and
+9° F., whilst the few clear days with a south and west wind brought
+us zero and 6° below. One of the weightiest causes of the powerful
+ice-pressure we had undergone, seemed to be, together with the
+temporary influence of the spring-tides, the fact that at this time we
+were in the narrow sea-passage between Iceland and Greenland, where
+the ice, carried on by the current (chiefly on account of the numerous
+prominent capes on the east coast of Greenland), must necessarily be
+pressed close. This movement,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> in its greatest strength, reached as far
+as Cape Dan, where the coast falls considerably backwards to the west;
+and on the east the boundary of Iceland recedes, thus causing the ice
+stoppage to cease. Later we met, farther southward from Cape Dan, a
+whole chain of icebergs drifting in a southerly direction. These had
+evidently been affected by the advance of successive masses of ice.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23rd, we could distinguish a hawk and a raven which flew over
+us, greeting them as messengers of our return to life. A remarkable
+phenomenon appeared about the end of January, in the snow-walls which
+rose around our floe. During the calm, the floating ice had become
+loosened, and the fissures and openings had been filled up with snow
+as fine as sand, in gigantic masses “like sheaves;” and when, on the
+25th, another close pressure of the ice began, the masses of snow rose
+in walls of from twenty to twenty-five feet high, changing the whole
+face of our settlement into that of a ravine. Of course, these snow
+enclosures were but of short duration; they broke up on the 1st of
+February, as soon as the spring-tide set the ice once more in motion,
+and soon melted quite away. On this occasion, a piece of our floe,
+which had been divided by a great fissure, broke off and drifted
+slowly away. We could then pretty well estimate the strength of it, as
+the water was very transparent, and the shining ice was perceptible
+at thirty to thirty-five feet deep. So we might hope, unless another
+crisis overtook us, that our floe’s firmness might last until it
+brought us into a latitude from which, by the boat, we might be able to
+reach the nearest West Greenland settlement.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">POST NUBILA PHŒBUS. ABANDONMENT OF THE FLOE AND BOAT JOURNEY TO THE
+ISLAND OF ILLUIDLEK. FEB. TO JUNE 4, 1870.<a id="FNanchor_17" href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">A Fox near the Hansa-house.—Rapid drift of our floe.—Open
+water westwards.—Changed aspect of the coast.—A family of
+seals.—Numerous glaciers on the coast.—Threatened danger from
+an iceberg.—In the latitude of Nukarbik.—Linnets.—Carpenter
+attacked by scurvy.—Keeping Easter Festival.—Considerable
+advance of our floe in its southward drift.—Attractive
+aspect of the coast.—The Puisortok glacier.—Walruses.—Bird
+life.—Open water in the direction of land.—Determination
+to quit the floe and take to the boats.—Preparations
+therefor.—Departure.—Storm from the north.—Huge appetites
+and scanty rations.—Excessive heat.—A fly.—Dragging
+the boats towards the coast.—Excursion to the island
+of Illuidlek.—Difficulty in dragging the boats over
+the ice.—Anniversary of our departure from Bremen
+harbour.—Prospects for the future.—Great exertions to
+escape.—Landing on the island of Illuidlek on 4th June.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>On the 1st of February we caught a glimpse of some seals, the first
+we had seen for a long time; also a raven, and some various kinds of
+sea-gulls. The former came from the land, the latter from the sea. One
+morning, too, a fox appeared before our house. He stayed many days, and
+became so bold at last, that he would fetch the meat which had been
+thrown from the galley, and allow himself to be stroked. The creature
+caused us much fun. It never entered our heads to capture him.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span></p>
+
+<p>At four p.m. we passed Cape Dan, but the coast was too far distant for
+us to discern its outline distinctly.</p>
+
+<p>For the next few days we drifted at the speed of one nautical mile an
+hour, passing numerous huge icebergs, some more than 100 feet high,
+without receiving any injury to our floe. Before such a mountain the
+currents of course divided, the water rushing on either side. With
+this current our floe regularly went from twenty to twenty-five paces
+either to the right or left of the monster, and thus happily passed it.
+Bade and Hildebrandt made an attempt to climb one of these icebergs,
+but under ever increasing difficulties only succeeded in getting half
+way up. “Then the smooth, white walls rose so steep, that we might
+just as well have tried to climb the bare outer wall of a church
+tower.” Fragments of the mighty glaciers of Greenland forced out to sea
+“calves” of the same, these icebergs resemble huge basaltic rocks in
+all shades of white and blue.</p>
+
+<p>On the 6th of February, according to our reckoning, we ought to be near
+Dan Island. As, however, we could not see it, we naturally concluded
+that it had no existence, and that the marking of it on Graah’s chart
+must rest upon the fact that, icebergs being so numerous here, they
+must have mistaken one for an island.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1390_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1390_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ICEBERG WITH REFRACTION NEAR CAPE LÖWENÖRN.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>February passed quietly; the weather throughout was fine. Floating
+ice and icebergs, which were more numerous than ever, left our floe
+undiminished; we supplemented many of our arrangements, and above all
+gained more confidence in our future. With regard to our possessions
+and effects, we have become very indifferent. The most costly books are
+torn up for the most trifling purposes. The gilded frame of our cabin
+looking-glass has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> long since been used as firewood, and the glass
+thrown on one side. Streams of petroleum and brandy flow in the course
+of heating the stove; packets of tobacco furnish a welcome means of
+warmth. Why is gunpowder of no use to us? We like letting it off in
+fireworks for our pleasure, and to pass away the time! Only one event,
+which happened about the beginning of March, grieved us sadly; our
+Dr. Buchholz, who until now had shown himself courageous and resolute
+in all moments of danger, became melancholy, and a nervous disorder
+developed itself, which he never lost until he returned home. Of course
+we did all we could for him; but our position on the floe, and later
+in the boats, without<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> medical advice, was of that kind that we were
+unable to follow up any means of cure whatever.</p>
+
+<p>Middle of February, in 64° 40′ N.L., and about twenty nautical miles
+from land, we saw, in a westerly direction, and running parallel with
+the coast for about eight nautical miles, a strip of open water. It
+was evidently of considerable breadth, and seemed to reach nearly to
+the land, for with a westerly wind came up a strong swell. With an
+east wind, on the contrary, it remained calm; and we might therefore
+conclude that towards the east the ice lay densely packed. The coast
+landscape has become less wild; it looks as though people might be
+living there. The sun, which now stands seventeen degrees high on the
+meridian, begins to have some power. It begins to feel quite like
+summer. Off with the furs, and the cramped up sleeves! the men now go
+about with bare throats and chests.</p>
+
+<p>Beautiful northern lights brighten the night. Like the leaves of a fan
+or a flower, the sheaves of light unroll themselves over the heavens.
+Its pole seems to lie exactly over our house.</p>
+
+<p>March brought abundant snow, and gave us but few cheerful days. Once
+we drifted within a short distance of a small iceberg about sixty feet
+high, on the top plateau of which we could see a seal family. The
+wife had evidently in this retirement made her lying-in bed; At four
+p.m. on the distant horizon, owing to the glistening ice-blink, the
+“Kolberger-Heide” glacier became visible twenty-five nautical miles
+from us. On approaching it we could see from there, as far down as Cape
+Moesting, one uninterrupted row of glaciers, which seemed to reach down
+to the sea. The intervening towering rocks were about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span> 3000 feet high.
+In the neighbourhood were countless icebergs, some of which were fast
+to the ground. We passed through the middle of them; and on the 19th,
+drifting swiftly along within six nautical miles from land, we nearly
+ran on to one. When, however, we were within twenty-five paces from the
+monster, the ice-current stopped, and for three hours we lay completely
+still. Then the ice loosened once more, and the journey began quicker
+than before. A collision, perhaps the total destruction of our floe,
+seemed imminent; for twenty minutes we were in the greatest danger,
+and looked on at the grand spectacle with breathless attention. The
+nearest part of the berg was a firm, connected mass. Farther on its
+build, under the combined influence of sun and water, had been worn
+into magnificent cliffs and gateways. On the south side was an aperture
+which seemed broad and high enough to hold a ship as large as the
+Hansa. As we came nearer the mass, we suddenly saw directly above
+us numerous points and jagged spikes; one projecting angle indeed
+we could grasp. “We are lost!” such was the thought of each of us.
+But—wonderful! our floe was unshaken; it did not even graze it. Small
+pieces of floating ice which surrounded it served both as “fender” and
+protector to our raft from this fatal collision. The berg once behind
+us, we drifted for some time in open water, which had collected itself
+here as in the wake of a ship.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th of March, in latitude 64° 2′, we took our longitude. By the
+chronometer it was 40° 44′ W. According to the Coast Survey, however,
+it was 40° O′ W. So that the land on Graah’s chart is carried 44′ too
+far to the east.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th of March, to our great joy, we found<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> ourselves in the
+latitude of Nukarbik. Was it on this island that Graah wintered from
+the 3rd of September, 1829, to the 5th of April, 1830; and where his
+troublesome and dangerous boat journey to the north was broken off? We
+had long nourished the hope of starting from here on a boat voyage to
+Friedrichsthal, the most southerly settlement on the western coast,
+though the ice lay so thick that two sailors asked permission to go
+on land. Fortunately the captain refused his consent; for a few hours
+later a change set in, which would have rendered it fearfully difficult
+for the men to have reached us again. On the evening of the 29th of
+March we thought we saw a fire on shore, and conjectured that it came
+from an Esquimaux settlement. We therefore sent up some rockets, and
+the next day hoisted our flag; but eventually we saw nothing but some
+snow-buntings and ravens. The latter came regularly every morning from
+the land to the sea, and returned at sunset. In the Bight of Nukarbik
+we had an unwilling stay of four weeks. We found ourselves two to
+three nautical miles from land. Whilst farther out the ice drifted
+southward without interruption, our floe tacked now to the south, now
+to the north. This was caused by the course of the current which ran
+close under the coast. The wind did not affect it, for we sometimes
+drove right against it. The coast is here deeply indented by three
+important Fjords. At the flood these land openings exert great strength
+of attraction, and our floe neared them. The ebb drew us back again;
+the next tide renewed the forward motion, and thus for weeks together
+we were the sport of the currents. At this time the spring flood of
+the 3rd of April passed over without any remarkable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> effect. The 12th
+being a bright day, the opportunity presented itself of observing the
+ebb and tide. We lay near an iceberg, which measured 120 feet high, was
+estimated at 180 in breadth and 200 in length. From ten a.m. until four
+p.m. the current set us slowly towards an iceberg surrounded by a strip
+of water, sometimes so near that we tried to push ourselves from it by
+poles. During this time we observed that the flood had risen two feet
+to the easily discernible high-water mark on the berg. At four p.m.
+the water again began to sink, and we floated back. We could hear the
+hissing and thundering of the ice floes falling after the ebb headlong
+from the banks. Small flights of linnets and snow-buntings visited us.
+We threw them some oat-groats, which they greedily devoured; at the
+same time being so tame, that we could catch them with the hand. In the
+middle of April a slight attack of scurvy attacked one of our men, the
+carpenter, whose leg was much swollen. We applied some simple remedies,
+made him take plenty of exercise, and he was soon restored.</p>
+
+<p>The Easter Festival fell at the time we lay floating backwards and
+forwards in the Bay of Nukarbik. We spent it cheerfully, in health,
+and full of hope of eventual preservation out of all danger and want;
+to us it was indeed a real Resurrection Festival. Had we not often
+had death before our eyes in its most threatening form? Nature, too,
+began to show signs of approaching spring; the air was considerably
+milder, the lowest temperature in the night 23° Fahr.; in the sunshine,
+which we often enjoyed while stretched upon the sails of the boats,
+the thermometer rose to 54½° Fahr. On the first festival day (17th
+of April) we had a good meal, preserved<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span> meat made into soup, ham,
+kidney beans, peas, and a bottle of sherry, which we had carefully
+kept until this day. On the second, we were to be released from our
+unwelcome position between the steep reddish-brown retreating cliffs
+of Cape Moltke and the low island of Nukarbik. A storm from the north
+gave to the motion of our floe a seaward direction, and we once more
+floated southward. The next three weeks brought us a long way forward,
+for this part of our voyage began on the 18th in 63° 30′ N.L., and on
+the 6th of May we found ourselves in 61° 4′, almost in the latitude
+of Bergen. During this stage, as speedy as it was free from danger,
+the evolutions of the ice-floes afforded us much interest, and our
+spirits rose immensely. The coast, with its many branching mountain
+chains, which on the southern side were mostly free from snow, its
+Fjords, creeks, islands, and capes formed a highly pleasing prospect.
+Grand was the appearance of the “Puisortok” glacier, a mighty ice-field
+extending thirty nautical miles along the coast, from which protruded
+the yellowish rocky masses of Cape Steen Bille. On the 25th, we saw a
+seal, lying on a floe, whilst from the land a bear with stealthy steps
+was nearing it; but the seal soon detected the threatened danger, and
+quickly disappeared. Linnets and snow-buntings are no longer rare.
+Fearless and confiding, these small birds seem to like the approach of
+men. “Some of them,” so says Bade’s day-book, “will almost perch upon
+our noses, and in five minutes allowed themselves to be caught three
+times.”</p>
+
+<p>Still no open water! During the first days of May it rained heavily;
+the snow melting, the path to our house became a ruin; its roof leaked
+like a sieve, and the house<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> itself, which formerly stood in a valley,
+was now upon a hill! We were obliged to prop it up. From the continued
+thaw a heap of things came to light which we thought were lost. Among
+them was the carpenter’s chest.</p>
+
+<p>Even on the 6th of May we had no idea that we should be able to leave
+our floe on the following day, much less meet with all sorts of
+provisions, which would be useful to our frail settlement destined to
+destruction. After the continued rain of the last few days, we broke
+up the remainder of the snow-path round the house entirely, and tried
+to give additional firmness to our falling dwelling with the laths and
+supports which were thereby set at liberty. These we drove into the
+floe on the outer side of the house, and bound together high above it
+with ropes, so that it was thoroughly laced in. Between these supports
+and the house wall we stuffed sail-cloth to keep out the draught and
+rain. The galley, which was fastened to the flagstaff, had lost its
+bottom through the thaw, and slanted sideways in the air. We loosened
+it from this aimless connexion and stood it once more on the snow.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1460_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1460_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">AN ICEBERG.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1470_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1470_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">HUNTING THE POLAR BEAR.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 7th we were agreeably surprised to see open
+water in the direction of land. A stiff south-easter had cleared the
+sky during the night, and in the grey morning the watch heard through
+the fog a rushing and roaring sound, which could be nothing but the
+sea. The thought had now to be seriously entertained as to whether the
+time had not come for our release from the floe. And it had come. Wind
+and weather remained favourable. The strip of water in the south-west
+came nearer and nearer, the wind separating masses of small floes
+and driving<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> them northwards. At half-past twelve the captain, after
+having uninterruptedly observed the ice and the weather for some time,
+decided, with the agreement of all the officers, that according to his
+opinion, the moment had come when they should leave the floe and try to
+save themselves by reaching the coast in the boats. But he did not wish
+to bear the entire responsibility of such an important step, believing
+that if the abandonment of the floe and the taking to the boats were
+decided upon with unanimous consent, or at least with that of the
+majority of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> his comrades, their prospect of ultimate preservation
+would be greatly enhanced by increased individual exertions. How well
+founded this opinion was, time would prove. It was also found that
+this day’s observations gave a latitude of 61° 12′; more northerly
+than that of yesterday, as on the 6th we were in 61° 4′. This view of
+the captain’s therefore received unlimited approbation, Dr. Laube only
+showing some hesitation, which was overruled. Our decision stood firm.
+After a hasty mid-day meal we at once began to clear the boats. This
+was troublesome work. First we took out all the provisions, clothing,
+sails, masts, oars, instruments, and so forth, so that the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span> boats
+might be hauled empty over three floes; and the whole of the contents
+were carried after them, partly on sledges and partly on the back,
+and they were again reladen. In feverish haste and impatience this
+work was accomplished, and in three hours all was ready. We took one
+last thankful look at our faithful floe; through numerous dangers and
+calamities, from the region of terror and death, it had borne us here
+in 200 days, into a more hospitable latitude; and now filled with fresh
+courage we might hope for a speedy release.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1490_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1490_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE BOAT BISMARCK.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>It was about four p.m. as with three hearty cheers we set sail.
+The community were divided amongst the boats in the following
+manner:—The whale-boat, which was commanded by Captain Hegemann,
+took the two scientific men, the cook, and the sailors Philipp Heine
+and Bernhard Gätjen. The boat Bismarck was commanded by the first
+officer, Hildebrandt; under him were the two sailors Paul Tilly and
+Heinrich Büttner. The large boat King William was commanded by the
+second officer, Bade; and the carpenter, Wilhelm Böwe, Fritz Kewell,
+Max Schmidt, and Conrad Gierke constituted the crew. We sailed until
+nine p.m., at first slowly, but after we had stowed away better, more
+rapidly; so that upon hauling the boat up on a floe, we had left seven
+nautical miles behind us. This hauling up was a hard bit of work. After
+finding a low spot and first emptying the boat, we lifted it on to the
+floe by swinging it backwards and forwards, and then when it came up
+the third time, with a strong pull at the painter a part was raised on
+to the ice, and afterwards the whole was hauled up. The provisions and
+other equipments of each boat were stacked up close by, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span> covered
+over with the oilskin. The missing sail-roof of the boat King William
+had to be replaced by the insufficient protection afforded by the
+boat-sail. Some hours sped by at this work. The evening meal consisted
+of hard bread and coffee, which the men prepared in the boats by means
+of the spirit-lamp. At length, at half-past twelve, we laid down on
+our furs to sleep; and at half-past five the next morning, we got
+up again. Sailing in a westerly direction brought us to within four
+nautical miles from the land. At twelve at noon, however, the ice was
+so dense that we were obliged to pull up at a floe. On this piece of
+ice, drifting slowly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span> southward, we rested in our boats until five p.m.
+The sun’s warm rays did us good, but they also produced that painful
+evil, snow-blindness. Besides which, from the constant looking-out
+against the wind for the chance of seeing the entrance to a channel,
+the eyes were so affected that they could not bear the blinding white
+of the light upon the glistening ice-fields. First a great weariness is
+felt, and then a burning in the eye, which soon mounts to unbearable
+pain. The eye waters violently, and the head is affected. There is
+then little else to do but to wait patiently, and fasten a cloth over
+the eyes to keep out every ray of light. After one and a half to two
+days the suffering is over, but one must be careful of a relapse.
+This sickness shows itself in many different forms. Some people
+suffer often and most violently from it, others only find their eyes
+slightly affected. Later, we tried to guard ourselves by making the
+green shading-glasses of the telescope into snow-spectacles. By this
+sensible improvised help, and others which we found, we were able to
+provide each with this, for an Arctic voyage, most necessary article.
+Our sailing journey, which at first was through dense ice, had brought
+us by the evening one and a half nautical miles nearer, when suddenly
+there fell a calm, and the floes before us had packed themselves into
+an impenetrable mass. The above-described work of hauling up the boats
+exhausted our strength again considerably; and after enjoying some
+coffee and bread, we fell into a deep sleep, dead tired. Bad weather,
+fall of snow and storm, kept us fixed six days more to the floe. The
+temperature changed from 36½° Fahr. by day, to 21° Fahr. by night.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1510_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1510_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">AN ICEBERG.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Yesterday, the 10th of May, in the afternoon, we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span> played our usual game
+at whist in the whale-boat. Our boat-sail (that belonging to the King
+William), which serves as a roof during the night, from its lightness
+and transparency keeps but little of the wet off; the rain has dropped
+gently upon us for now nearly twenty-four hours, as from the rose of
+a watering-pot. The other boats are better off in this respect, as
+they have oil-cloth sail coverings. The day ended, Mr. Hildebrandt
+and his people came to us in the large boat, for company and also for
+any alcohol and provisions that we could spare, with which we were
+better provided. There were therefore eight men to feed in the large
+boat. In the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span> morning we boiled a kettle of coffee, and ate a piece of
+dry bread with it. The mid-day meal consisted of a portion of soup,
+and the meat boiled in it. In the evening a drink of cocoa refreshed
+us, of course without either milk or sugar. We had to be economical
+with our provisions; for if we had to lie quiet much longer, hunger
+would knock sharper at the door. Our appetite is extraordinary, but
+easily accounted for, as the diet of fresh meat and fat, which is
+indispensable to this climate, had to be sparingly weighed out in
+scales which we manufactured for the occasion. The store of bacon is
+reckoned at 6 lbs. per head; besides which, there are two hams.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on the 14th, the bad weather broke up, the ice opened towards
+the evening for a short distance southwards, and we rowed to an
+iceberg; when, however, close under its walls, the cold was so intense
+that we tried to row round it. As we could not succeed, we retreated
+as fast as possible from this uncomfortable neighbour; and that just
+at the right time, for the open water closed behind us once more, and
+again we saw ourselves condemned to another five days’ existence on the
+floe. Our latitude was 61° 1′.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1540_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1540_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE LOOK-OUT.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1542_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1542_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_155"><i>Page 155.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">DRAGGING THE BOATS TO THE ILLUIDLEK ISLAND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>“Up to yesterday morning, 29th of May” (so it runs in the pilot Bade’s
+day-book), “uninterrupted storm from the north with snow; ice dense,
+land not often discernible, temperature not under 32° Fahr., mostly
+32.5° to 41° Fahr.; not moved from the spot; very wearisome; banished
+to the boat, as we must not get wet. Each one passes the time as well
+as he can. Mr. Hildebrandt makes sketches of our boats on and between
+the ice; Fritz, as cook of the large boat, makes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span> experiments on his
+fire apparatus in order to insure the greatest economy; Konrad composes
+poems; the carpenter relates Vegesack stories, and how as captain
+of a gunboat he sailed by the help of a chart of the Mediterranean
+from Bremen to Hull, and how by means of soundings he found himself
+at Ramsgate; I studied Heine’s poems, or carved boats, and so on;
+Max tried his hand at drawing. Yesterday it gave over snowing; we
+reviewed our provisions and divided them equally. We have about 27
+lbs. of bread per man, 5 lbs. of bacon, some coffee and cocoa, which
+we hope will last us quite a month. Our appetite is boundless, and
+the scanty rations to which we are restricted, prevent us from ever
+feeling satisfied. I have made a small pair of scales, in which I
+weigh the bread to my crew; the bacon I cut by my eye in pretty equal
+pieces, which is then given out by call to the men. This is always an
+exciting moment; all eyes brighten at the sight of the bacon, and a
+piece of bread is looked upon as tenderly as the finest confection.
+Fritz pretends to have discovered that one feels much more satisfied by
+bolting the little one eats, and not biting it much: it seems to last
+longer! We almost look our eyes out after a seal. Oil and fresh meat
+would be a delicious addition to our provisions. It is a peculiar and
+very mixed feeling, to think that in six weeks we shall have nothing to
+eat; if then we have not reached the land, we must drop off one after
+the other; but serious as is the thought, there are times when it seems
+irresistibly comical. Of tobacco we have plenty, and a good portion
+is consumed every day. Fritz is making himself a new pipe. To-day,
+the 19th of May, is again lovely weather. Whilst I am writing this at
+half-past nine a.m., the warmth is 72½° Fahr.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> The heat is oppressive,
+the wind calm, the ice quite dense. In such weather it ought soon go
+to pieces. With the telescope we can see the torrents falling from the
+steep overhanging rocks on land; fresh water we find everywhere on the
+floe. Melting the snow is, thank God, over now. Our health is good,
+only Dr. Buchholz is still suffering. Our eyes have improved these
+last few days by sparing their use. The temperature of the sea-water
+is 31° Fahr., that of the fresh water on the floe 32° Fahr. At this
+moment, I am hearing much astonishment expressed over a fly which has
+settled on the sails; in reality, a welcome sign. The month of May is,
+however,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span> no month of delight to us here. Setting aside the mild
+temperature and the brightness, it differs but little from January,
+resembling it in the continued northern storms. Real nights we have now
+no longer; the sun rises at three o’clock and sets shortly before nine;
+the intermediate period is half twilight. The time must be near for
+the birds to choose their quarters and lay their eggs. This east coast
+of Greenland is, indeed, a dead, deserted neighbourhood; and one may
+judge how difficult it is to get at, as, had our lives depended upon
+it, we could not once have reached it with the boats.” As no change
+took place in the position of the ice, we resolved to drag our boats to
+the Island of Illuidlek, about three miles distant,<a id="FNanchor_18" href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> which we were
+obliged to admit was hard work. We began on the evening of the 20th.
+The tow-line which we had made for the purpose during the winter, was
+made fast through the thole-holes; and we harnessed ourselves to it by
+a band round the shoulders. Only 300 steps did we advance. Snow fell
+plentifully, but soon turned to water, so that in our night-quarters
+in the boat we suffered much from the damp. On the afternoon of the
+21st, the weather cleared. The captain and Mr. Hildebrandt undertook a
+ramble in the direction of land. They found the ice but little adapted
+for our purpose, nothing but burst fragments, high towering floes, and
+huge blocks; there were but few fields, and those not more than 100
+paces in extent. It seemed almost impossible to pull the boats through
+these labyrinths of ice to the land; and we were obliged to agree to
+wait for the working of the spring-floods, which would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span> take place in
+a few days. The time seemed dreadfully long. Some sailors practised
+wood-carving. We amused ourselves with the chess-board and carving the
+pieces; Bade worked at a king in robes and crown; others turned to some
+useful employment, such as twisting fishing-lines eighty fathoms long,
+in the hope of hauling up a cod fish wherewith to enrich our pitiful
+meals.</p>
+
+<p>The 24th of May was glorious weather. The sun shone on us from a
+cloudless sky, and where its rays fell the thermometer was 96° Fahr. It
+was a welcome opportunity of drying our washing and clothes thoroughly,
+which had been in a chronic state of wet, and we eagerly embraced it.
+The boats, too, were laid open, and steamed under the heat of the sun.
+All the men turned out. Mr. Bade, the purser, mindful of his duty, was
+with some of the men hunting for something for dinner. But, alas! seals
+would not show themselves, fishes would not take the bacon-bait, and
+the stupid northern-divers were at all events clever enough to keep
+beyond the reach of shot. A successful attempt to reach the Island of
+Illuidlek, which was about three miles distant, and lay from 140 to
+150 yards high, was made by Mr. Hildebrandt and the sailors Philipp
+and Paul. After three hours’ exertion, at about one o’clock, they set
+foot on firm ground. They were with us again by four o’clock. Their
+return was quicker. In the sailor Heine’s day-book it says:—“The fine
+weather has lasted. Mr. Hildebrandt, Paul, and I tried to get to land;
+we succeeded with great difficulty. We ran more than we walked, and
+sometimes sank deep in the snow. We perspired all over, and the water
+ran into our boots, so that we had to empty them continually and wring
+our <span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>stockings. The island showed no signs of vegetation, fell steep
+and often perpendicularly down, and had many fissures and gaps. The
+southern part seemed more accessible, but we had to hurry our return,
+and were therefore obliged to give up further investigation.” Heine
+further reports, as we were led to expect from Graah’s observations,
+that a small strip of water ran along the land, formed by the torrents
+falling from the coast. On this swam a few divers. They succeeded
+in passing this water by standing on a floe, and by means of the
+boat-hooks pushed themselves from one piece of ice to the other.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1562_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1562_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_157"><i>Page 157.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">COAST TO THE SOUTH OF ILLUIDLEK.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The desert, rocky Island of Illuidlek is about ten nautical miles
+in circumference. They landed on the north-east side at a spot from
+which, by the help of the boats, they could easily reach the south
+coast, where we might hope to find protection from the wind and ice
+drift. There also seemed a prospect of increasing our provisions by
+hunting sea-birds. This, on the whole favourable report, was given in
+the captain’s boat, in the presence of the officers and Dr. Laube, and
+it served to strengthen our resolution to try with all our might for
+a temporary refuge on this lonely island. No sooner said than done.
+As the warmth of the sun was already very fatiguing when we were at
+work, and as in addition to that most of us had not yet recovered from
+snow-blindness, we agreed, weather permitting, to drag the boats by
+night and rest by day. In this way we hoped to be on land in eight
+days. Observations of the 24th of May gave 60° 59.8′ N.L.</p>
+
+<p>Double altitude of the sun’s limb, 86° 25′ 40″. Chronometer, 12h.
+21m. 15s. p.m.; reading of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> chronometer, 13m. 30.6s., giving the
+longitude 43° 10.1′ W. According to Graah’s chart, however, it should
+be 42° 20′ W., resulting in an error in the latter of about 50m.<a id="FNanchor_19" href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> A
+later comparison of our chronometer with that of the royal Danish brig
+Constance, gave an error to us of—35.4s., whereby our longitudinal
+observation would require nine minutes more. The first night with
+great exertion we advanced 530 paces; seven a.m. fall of snow; rested
+until eight p.m. Mr. Hildebrandt and Max had a severe attack of
+snow-blindness, and were obliged to remain quiet in the boat while we
+pulled it. We were doubtful whether it would not be better to leave the
+heavy boat King William behind, but we still dragged it on with us, as
+we hoped to find it of great use on our journey by water.</p>
+
+<p>The 28th was a clear day. We were able to dry our things once more,
+and find a path for our dragging the next night. By seven a.m. we had
+gained 700 paces, when it again began to snow. Dragging is fearfully
+tiring work, and makes but slow progress, particularly when the boats
+have to be hauled now over high lumps of ice, now over places where the
+water is only covered with loose snow, on which occasions it does not
+give merely wet feet, but an entire bath. Dr. Laube is very fortunate
+that way. I have but one pair of boots, which are so torn with the ice,
+that the water runs unhindered in and out. Having once reached our
+goal, stockings and shoes are off at once, and the naked feet put into
+the fur sleeping-sack, where they soon get warm. Fortunately, each of
+us has<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> about three pairs of stockings to change; though in this damp
+weather they dry badly, and often enough we can only wring them and put
+them on again stone cold as they are. We have borne it well up to this
+time, but I fear for the consequences. The temperature is seldom below
+32° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>The 27th was Konrad’s birthday. To raise their spirits somewhat, I
+gave my men a glass of sherry—a festive luxury in our poverty, as our
+whole store consisted of one bottle of sherry and one of rum. That we
+might sit dry, we borrowed the oilskin coats from the “Hope,” and hung
+them up under our sail, which is very thin and lets the rain through,
+so that we are much better off. The carpenter, thank God, is recovered
+from his scurvy. Our neighbour, the iceberg, has also changed its form.
+In the night one side of it fell with a thundering crash. When all is
+quiet, we can hear from the land the splitting of the perpendicular
+walls. The nights are light; real darkness we have none, and the
+twilight, which breaks about twelve, resembles that of our own summer
+evenings at half-past nine. Water for cooking and drinking we find
+plentifully on the floe after the rain, and this is acceptable, as our
+brandy would soon come to an end if we had to melt the snow. “To-day we
+have been on our way with the boats twenty-one days, and to-day it is
+exactly a year since I left home; what may have happened there since
+then? Will the next news be sad or joyful? What have we accomplished in
+this time? what endured? When shall we again see our beloved country?
+We all naturally hope for a return.” (Bade’s day-book.)</p>
+
+<p>The work is getting more difficult. First the boats<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span> have to be
+emptied, and pulled to the spot where our next day’s rest is to be
+taken, while we frequently have to go over walls of ice, the slipping
+downwards being often more difficult than the pulling up. Then the
+boats tip over in the snow, or get caught behind a piece of ice, when
+it costs us untold trouble to get them free again. Then, again, we have
+to go over rifts in the ice, and weary ourselves over places where it
+has fallen in. When this difficult manœuvre is happily accomplished,
+all the things must be put in again. At this work each has to carry
+from 100 to 105 lbs. weight; and one can imagine that, as with this
+burden we now sink deep into snow or snow-water, and now have to
+climb over closely-packed fragments of floes, all that is not really
+necessary is left behind. On the night of the 30th to the 31st of May,
+we left the longest distance behind us yet accomplished, viz. 1200
+paces. As we had drawn two boats to their destination, the captain,
+who had been leading and energetic the whole night, and also active in
+dragging the boats, fainted.</p>
+
+<p>In all this galling work hunger tormented us; and if night gave us
+sweet dreams of tables richly provided with food, on awaking, our
+murmuring, grumbling stomachs soon brought us back to reality.</p>
+
+<p>Beginning of June, uninterrupted storms from the north, and fall of
+rain as from a bowl since the last three days and nights. Our bad,
+thin sail can scarcely stand the drops which fall like lead upon
+it. Truly we in the King William are not to be envied. Our rations,
+too, are getting scantier than ever! As there is not even a distant
+prospect of increasing our provisions, our meals are reduced to two in
+twenty-four hours; and every<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span> morning at nine I give each a quarter of
+a pound of bread and a small bit of bacon, and at six in the evening
+the same weight of bread, and to all a half-ration of cold soup with
+meat in it. In the morning we could still have a drink of coffee; but
+in the evening cocoa only. Our brandy disappeared rapidly; if we did
+not soon kill a seal, to supply oil for fuel, we should be obliged
+to give up warm food. Thus one can imagine that we are plagued with
+a continual and never-satisfied wolf’s craving. The bread-bag and
+remainder of the bacon I have always by my side for safety’s sake. The
+conversation turns upon nothing but eating. Max only wishes he was in
+the Exchange Restaurant at Bremen; Konrad would be contented with a
+juicy beefsteak with some eggs, and maintains that he could at once
+demolish twenty-five eggs with one pound of butter and sixpennyworth of
+bread; at the same time, the eye falls upon the clock and counts the
+hours which must still pass before the scanty meal will recur.</p>
+
+<p>And how quietly and devotedly is the meal then taken! how busy is each
+trying to stifle the gnawing hunger, if only for a short time! If one
+could only get rid of the burdensome feeling by sleep! But scarcely
+does sleep come than the water leaks on to our faces, or one of the
+coats on the roof glides from the edge of the boat, scattering the
+whole of its watery contents upon us.</p>
+
+<p>Konrad was quite sad this morning; in his sleep he had consumed a
+portion of ham and some poached eggs one after the other, but on waking
+felt so dreadfully hollow within. The wet cold air of 39° Fahr. in
+the boat is very disagreeable; we shiver unceasingly. It is really
+wonderful that we are so well, though we feel that our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> strength is
+diminishing. When will open water, either to sail or row in, appear
+before us? Shall we even now, after so many dangers and difficulties
+overcome, be destined to a miserable end? Before yesterday the ice
+pushed and got into motion, probably on account of the spring-tide and
+the storm, but it packed itself closer than ever, and did not open
+again. It is to be hoped we shall soon have better weather. We have
+moved somewhat nearer the island, whether to our advantage or not we do
+not know.</p>
+
+<p>At length, on the 4th of June, we succeeded in landing on Illuidlek.
+This day we dragged the boats 2000 paces in thirteen hours, and at
+eight p.m. we were able to launch them.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">JOURNEY ALONG THE COAST OF GREENLAND FROM ILLUIDLEK TO FRIEDRICHSTHAL.
+JUNE, 1870.<a id="FNanchor_20" href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[19]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Description of the Island.—Arrival in the Bay of “Hansa
+Haven.”—Departure for Friedrichsthal.—Desert appearance of
+the coast.—The cliffs near Cape Hvidtfeldt.—Vegetation and
+landscape scenery.—Excursion to the Island of Sedlevik.—A
+Swiss landscape in Greenland.—The Bay of Friedrichsthal.—Men
+upon the shore.—The Moravian Mission-colony of
+Friedrichsthal.—Dwelling-houses in Friedrichsthal.—Hospitable
+reception.—The natives.—Preparations for returning
+home.—Commercial dealings with Denmark.—Travelling in
+Greenland.—The Esquimaux village.—East-Greenlander
+frightened.—West-Greenlander.—Beer in Greenland.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The small Island of Illuidlek extends in its longer axis from
+south-east to north-west. A dome-shaped, steep declivity to the
+north-west, to the south-east a sloping mountain, form centres round
+which cluster a crowd of wild rugged cliffs. A small strait separates
+the island from the smaller Ivimiut lying before it, and Cape
+Discord.<a id="FNanchor_21" href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> Inland extends a long chain of rocks, a very quickset
+hedge, the innermost end of which forms a small low island, which we
+took for that called Omenarsuk on Graah’s map. Naked and bare of all
+vegetation, these grotesque rocks rise into the air. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> inhabitants
+of the island, a pair of lonely gulls, watched with evident curiosity
+from a rift in the rocks the arrival of the strange visitors, and some
+guillemots fluttered piping around the open water of the strait. It was
+between the south-east point of the island, Cape Discord, and the small
+Island of Ivimiut. About ten o’clock we lay in a bay protected from
+the north wind, and surrounded by high rocks, which we called “Hansa
+Haven.” Here we wished to pass the night, and had already brought our
+things to shore with that intention, when the tide fell and our boat
+grounded; we therefore left the bay at about twelve at night, pulling
+up at a piece of ice lying not far from the land. It was now exactly
+four weeks since our departure from the floe, which we had left with
+such confident hope of reaching the neighbouring shore in a few days.</p>
+
+<p>Whitsunday, glorious weather! Messrs. Hildebrandt and Bade went hunting
+in the boat Bismarck. They brought home a small bag of twenty-two
+divers, the flesh of which, prepared as a stew, provided us with two
+excellent mid-day meals. This, however, only helped for the moment;
+and we had, at the utmost, only provisions for fourteen days! The
+hunters had been in the upper part of the island. They saw along the
+southern coast a small strip of water. “Everywhere we find nothing but
+bare barren cliffs, the higher the wilder, sparingly clothed with moss
+and stunted willows. But no trace of human inhabitants!” Illuidlek,
+where Graah fell in with some natives,<a id="FNanchor_22" href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> seems to have been long
+uninhabited.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1641_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1641_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_164"><i>Page 164.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE BOATS UNDER SAIL.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>On the second day, the 6th of June, we started again. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span>Our aim
+was Friedrichsthal, the nearest colony on the south-west coast of
+Greenland. But we reckoned upon soon meeting one or the other of the
+Esquimaux seal-boats searching the Fjord. We worked, pushing and
+rowing laboriously, up the Kangerdleck Fjord, then struck straight
+across, and rowed and cruised about from six o’clock, at which time the
+ice loosened a little, until eleven in the evening, against a hard,
+south-west wind. The Island of Omenarsuk scarcely rises 125 feet above
+the sea, and yet on its north side shows a spot only a few square feet
+in size, which is covered with fresh-water ice, and looks exactly
+like a diminutive glacier. From its position it could not possibly be
+an ice-block hurled there; besides, it was fresh water, ice from the
+snow which had been frozen in the ravines of the island. This inland
+ice-formation in such small masses against the neighbouring powerful
+ice-current, is an interesting phenomenon. Some nautical miles from
+the south point of the above-mentioned Fjord, which we christened
+“Pfingstkap,” we hauled up the boats on to the firm, even coast ice.
+The following sketch will explain the situation:—</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1650_map">
+  <img
+    class="p1" 
+    src="images/p1650_map.jpg"
+    alt="">
+  </div>
+
+<p>The next day, 7th June, was delightful weather. We sailed pleasantly
+past “Pfingstkap,” the highest rocky point of which rises boldly in
+the air, stretching along the steep coast southwards. Its aspect was
+barren and dreary. The darkness of the rocks was broken here and there
+by small strips of snow, reaching about half<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> way up; some of which
+looked grass-green from the scanty moss growing on the stones. On
+a low island, which on Graah’s map bears the name of Kutek Island,
+we took our mid-day meal. In the depths of the rocks we found some
+beautifully-tasting water, and for once we drank as much as we wanted.
+The rocks of Kutek Island must often have come in hard contact with the
+ice drifting from the north; many places distinctly showed that they
+had been polished by the ice and worn quite flat. On many rocks, which
+were partly covered by the tide, lay the glistening blue fragments of
+pieces washed up, and of crushed ice-floes. In the evening we hauled
+up our boats five miles north of Cape Vallöe, for the first time on
+the rocks of the continent of Greenland. For the first time, now that
+we had no longer the crowding ice to fear, did we give ourselves
+completely and quietly up to rest. The light of another bright sunshiny
+dawn showed us some signs of vegetation inland. There were sorrel,
+dandelion, and cinquefoil, which we sought for eagerly in the fissures
+and rents of the rocky ground, and with which, with the help of some
+pickle, we improvised a salad with the remainder of the divers; got
+once more under sail, and in the evening had left twenty miles behind
+us. Our quarters this night were close to the south end of Greenland
+(60° 34′ N.L.), in front of the Fjord of Lindenow (marked by Graah
+under the unpronounceable name of Kangerdlurksoeitsiak).</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we passed the grandly-formed pyramidical Cape of
+Hvidtfeldt (Kaningesekasik), more than a thousand feet high. Before
+it lay a group of cliffs, at one of which we pulled up, in order to
+find the best channel. On this occasion granite was found<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span> amongst
+the rocks. Dr Laube reports:—“We pulled up to one of the rocks for a
+short rest, and for our meal. It was a huge block of granite, and that
+of the beautiful large grained kind, the pegmatite, which is known to
+come from Siberia and other northern lands. Besides this, it contained
+a great number of garnets and carnelians mixed up together; and from
+its bosom the waves had washed a lovely block of rose quartz. I had
+made no secret of the presence of sapphires and garnets, and so came
+to grief through it, as we all wanted to capture a large sapphire.
+Hammer and chisel, which I had always to borrow, as my case went
+down with the Hansa, were scarcely to be obtained, and only with the
+sacrifice of my daily meal did I at length succeed in quieting my
+geologico-mineralogical mind by the acquisition of some fragments, when
+we at once said good-bye to the rock and its treasures, and went on
+our way. My mineralogico-geological mind! How often on the way did it
+rise in an excitement of longing to get hold of this or that spot, to
+climb up, and laden with stones return to the boat! but I must suppress
+such longings. If, as is well known, one cannot study well upon a
+full stomach, I can certify that a craving, gnawing stomach, does
+not incline one to work. But, even had I overcome this, a half-hour
+spent on such an excursion might have brought the lives of my waiting
+companions into danger. For this I would not be responsible. So that I
+only allowed my wishes to prevail when the occasion was warranted by
+circumstances.”</p>
+
+<p>The colour of the mountains, beginning from Cape Hvidtfeldt, was quite
+different from those seen hitherto; they looked like melted copper.
+That explains at once<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> the brown colour so often borne by naked rocks;
+it may also arise from the weather-beaten stratum of the peculiar
+granite of which they are built.<a id="FNanchor_23" href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> The blue atmosphere, in which the
+rocks rise, enhances the picturesque appearance of this richly-coloured
+coast scenery.</p>
+
+<p>The rocks lying almost under Kaningesekasik, are washed perfectly
+round; they lie like giant ice-breakers, smooth and polished on all
+sides. Waves and ice have done their work. These cupola and dome-shaped
+rocks we now met constantly on our coasting journey; thousands of
+them lay scattered along the mainland, a stony outwork against the
+onward-pressing ice.</p>
+
+<p>Our further voyage showed us a more pleasant landscape. To the north
+of the promontory of Igalalik appeared, extending for some distance,
+green tracts clothed with short grass. Unfortunately it was very foggy
+weather, and the clusters of islands, amid which we were now steering
+to find the entrance to Prince Christian Sound, caused us to miss this
+mark. The weather had become bad, and the south-east wind setting
+straight in on to shore drove us to seek protection in the first
+suitable of the many opening bights. After sailing in it for some time,
+the water became smoother; we were evidently in a strait, and that
+the one we wanted, viz. Prince Christian Sound. Lazily we rowed until
+two a.m. A flat piece of granite, sloping gently down to the water,
+afforded us a capital resting-place. Soon the boats were placed in the
+usual way, prepared as a tent couch.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span></p>
+
+<p>More quietly than usual could we give ourselves up to sleep. The
+southern point of Greenland was, we thought, happily reached; in a
+few days we must be in Friedrichsthal. That horrible spectre which
+had martyred us for a long four weeks, the prospect of starvation,
+vanished; and we set valiantly to work upon the side of bacon and
+the ham. One must not, however, think, says Dr. Laube, that, on
+that account, we were careless of our provisions. Captain Hegemann
+providently kept the bread basket somewhat high. It might still happen
+that by the ice or some other hindrance we might be delayed, and with
+our store of provisions have to prolong our lives for a longer time.
+The long-missing feeling of satiety, and the joyful knowledge that soon
+this lingering, troublesome work of deliverance would be successful,
+helped to put us in the happiest frame of mind. It was already late
+in the morning, when the voice of the careful cook awoke us out of a
+refreshing sleep with the cry of ‘Schaffen! schaffen!’<a id="FNanchor_24" href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p>
+
+<p>“The next thing was to try, if possible, to ascertain our exact
+position; the further journey was, therefore, put off until after
+the mid-day rest. When the accustomed morning toilette had been gone
+through (a brook leaping from the mountains gave an opportunity for a
+thorough cleansing), I employed the time in climbing the overhanging
+rocks to look about a little and see what was here offered to the eye.
+How different the ground already looked here! No longer those bare
+masses of rock alternating with everlasting ice! green moss spread<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span>
+itself around; dwarf birches, creeping willows showed young shoots,
+though even here the snow seemed not long to have disappeared. Indeed,
+we had no need to climb very high above the valley to find the winter
+carpet still spread. The straits here had more the character of a lake.
+From our resting-place straight to the south opened another in the
+distance, bordered by an island. In the east, from whence we had come,
+rose long-backed ridges; whilst westward, where the straits disappeared
+behind a rocky promontory, rose high mountains. Still and deserted it
+was on all sides; scarcely a white gull fluttered over the water, or
+a snow-bunting piped its simple song. About mid-day I returned to the
+camp. On the broad granite flat the captain and the pilot had erected a
+temporary observatory. Observations gave us 60° 4′ N.L., according to
+which we were not in Prince Christian Sound, but some nautical miles
+more to the south. Graah’s chart, which had generally given the run
+of the coast pretty exactly, had disappointed us more than once with
+regard to our geographical position. With a fresh breeze we sailed
+about twelve miles over the supposed Sound, then found it surrounded
+by rocks, and after climbing some heights were convinced that we were
+in a Fjord and not in a sea-strait, so we were obliged to row back
+again. The scenery on both sides was wildly picturesque, and grand dark
+rocky walls, covered on the top with snow, rose more than a thousand
+feet high; torrents of the melted snow rushed from the clefts and
+fell foaming in the Fjord. In some places, a sickly mossy covering
+was perceptible. Birds were often visible. At six in the evening, we
+were once more at the entrance; allowed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> ourselves no rest, however,
+but sailed until midnight in a south-westerly direction, four miles
+further, where in a small safe harbour we landed. On the shore were
+many signs that here had passed or lived some human beings, and (to
+judge from the bones of the seals) not very long ago some Esquimaux.
+Small stones were laid on the top of each other in the shape of a
+quadrangle: fragments of earthenware and seals’ bones lay strewn
+around. In this bight, too, the scenery was indescribably grand. To
+the left it was bounded by a hilly chain clothed in green moss. To the
+right rose a mighty wall 1200 feet high. A rocky pyramid towered in the
+air, and broad cataracts shot over the slopes, the waters collecting
+at the bottom, and the overflow being borne to the sea. The background
+was picturesquely surrounded by mountains, the waters of whose glaciers
+fell over a mountain terrace in a mighty torrent thundering to the
+sea. I thought of the ‘Traunfall’ in Upper Austria. No words are
+equal to the description of this majestic scenery; it wants a vivid
+water-colour drawing to convey that impression to the reader which
+this picture landscape made upon me. Pity that the journey to this
+region is so uninviting! If such were not the case, an artist might
+not be indisposed to undertake it, in order to bring home to the world
+full and glorious sketches and views of an unknown land abounding in
+nature’s beauty.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven in the morning, with a fresh north wind, we sailed on. At
+noon we passed the point of Christian IV. Island, and from thence rowed
+between the high island lying north of Cape Farewell, to the important
+Island of Sedlevik with its many far-stretching arms,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> where we passed
+the night and the following day. Now, indeed, we had the certainty of
+knowing that we were near Friedrichsthal, and might give ourselves
+up to the joyful hope of soon being once more among men. Strangely
+enough, up to this time, we had not had a glimpse of an Esquimaux,
+though we might reasonably conclude that they were now busy in these
+waters catching the seals. Later we learnt that this (which is for the
+Greenlander a weighty business) was carried on to the south of Cape
+Farewell. The bank rises from the spot where we were, in an oblique
+direction, about 320 feet, forming a wide hilly plateau inland, on the
+soft, elastic, mossy carpet of which we stretched ourselves in the
+noonday sun and enjoyed some hours of long-wanted rest. Here and there,
+half hidden in the moss, were small blue flowers. Some of our party
+went hunting, but shot nothing but a few birds.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon came the tide, which rose eight feet, and with a
+pretty strong north-east wind made such breakers that would have been
+dangerous to us, if some of the men had not been on the spot at the
+time, and held the boat, which was driving on to the shore, with the
+oars. Towards evening, the water retreated, the boats lay still, and
+we laid ourselves down with the conviction that the next night we
+should pass under a roof in Friedrichsthal. The glaciers which hung
+every where on the rocks of the island, now like birds’-nests between
+the needles and the rocky pinnacles, now of considerable strength,
+stretching down the declivities, no longer reached (so Dr. Laube
+affirmed) down to the sea, though in some places they protruded their
+moraines low down, and some of the broken ice getting loose<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span> fell over
+this dam into the sea. The temperature of the air seemed considerably
+warmer, and the land bore a far fresher green; whilst the islands
+around Cape Farewell formed a connected, high towering, tattered rocky
+block. The northerly Island of Sedlevik, which we had now reached,
+showed a level shore; only in the middle did a high, steep massive
+mountain rise. Everywhere the bank rose so high above the sea, that we
+had to search for some time before we could find a place suitable for
+pulling up the boats; and this on account of the steepness of the rough
+rocks was hard work, though it at last succeeded.</p>
+
+<p>One week had passed since we reached Illuidlek; more happily than we
+had ventured to hope had our journey sped since then; and now we might
+once more allow ourselves a day of rest. Sunday, the 12th of June, we
+passed on Sedlevik. Although it blew hard from the north-west, the day
+was beautifully clear, and we could scan the land around us at our
+leisure. A party went hunting. “Less bloodhirsty” (writes Dr. Laube)
+“was my excursion; armed with the carpenter’s hammer, and accompanied
+by Philipp and Konrad, I undertook an excursion through the island.
+How different it was over the soft, swelling, mossy carpet, in which
+the feet often sank up to the ankles, to the hard stony rocks which
+we had trodden up to this time! Under the high mountains of the
+island, Spring’s first children had been born to her; amongst blooming
+willows and birch bushes, which rose in their succulent green sprays
+from the mossy ground like embroidery, the kidney-leaved sorrel and
+sweet-smelling angelica, finely indented fan-like ferns, waved in the
+air, and on the hanging rocks the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span> low-lying <i>Sibbaldia</i> spread
+its violet flower-bed. Below, at our feet, lay the light blue straits;
+branching off here and there, and forming deep Fjords stretching into
+the mountains, which with the glittering glaciers and bluish ravines
+bounded the distant view. I thought of the glorious Lake of the four
+Cantons! The small icebergs drifting on the water, gave life to the
+picture, looking like a fleet of blinding white sails; but instead of
+the smiling banks which delight the eye on that Swiss lake, it fell
+upon a desert shore. And yet what a different impression the landscape
+made upon me now to what it did a short time ago, when we were so
+uncertain as to our fate, and scarcely ventured to look up, much less
+give our souls to the great beauty of a northern landscape!”</p>
+
+<p>June 13, started at four in the morning. We crossed between floes,
+until we had gone round the north point of the island, ran before the
+wind through the Straits of Torsukatek, and then took our course as a
+calm fell, rowing westward, remaining as near as possible to the coast,
+looking sharply in the direction of Friedrichsthal. There suddenly,
+after rounding a low promontory, the longed-for bay lay before us! It
+was a never-to-be-forgotten moment. The wind was now favourable, so we
+at once set sail, and hoisted our flag. A few hundred steps from the
+shore, on the green ground, stood a rather spacious red house, topped
+by a small tower. It was the mission-house. More to the side, and
+somewhat nearer to the bank, stood a similar smaller building, near
+which lay a dark mass of stony heaps; these we conjectured were the
+Esquimaux houses. Further on to the left opened a broad Fjord running
+from the north. High<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span> mountains framed this pleasant landscape picture,
+which was closed in the background by dim bluish mountain chains.</p>
+
+<p>Friedrichsthal (so says Dr. Laube) is one of the younger mission
+stations of the Moravian confraternity. It was established in the year
+1827, and lies in 60° N.L., and is, excepting Pamiädluk (which lies
+some miles to the south of Cape Farewell, and is the residence of a
+Danish petty trader) the most southerly place in Greenland inhabited by
+Europeans. The community of Friedrichsthal, which also includes some of
+the scattered squatters of Esquimaux in the neighbourhood, contains 437
+inhabitants. The natives call the mission “Narsak,” that is, <i>level
+land</i>; definite enough for the conditions of land in Greenland.
+Plains are so rare there, that they answer well for defining places.
+But one’s expectations with regard to this European colony must not
+be too high. On a green meadow-land, which rises gently from the sea,
+stands the mission-house. On either side high mountains stretch inland
+to the north; the chain to the left is separated from Friedrichsthal by
+a parallel-running Fjord, the Narksamiut. From the high ridge to the
+right springs a merry brook, called by the Missionaries “Königsbach.”
+The generally flat shores of the bay juts out on the left into a
+natural mole, a prominent granite rock, the “Look-out” hill. To the
+left again of this rock is the entrance to the Narksamiut, a Fjord
+running deep into the land, from the waters of which Cape Igikait rises
+proud and steep. For some distance, about an English mile, one may
+follow the flat land lying along Narksamiut; then the cliffs and rocks
+crowd closer together; and only to those who are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> practised in climbing
+is it possible to penetrate a step further, when they may reach a rock
+which suggests nothing but a retreat or a giddy fall.</p>
+
+<p>This green flat spot of land the Moravian Brotherhood have chosen for
+their most southerly mission station. The Northmen had already lived
+here. As the brothers’ house was being built, traces were found of
+their old settlement in the ground. Friedrichsthal is, indeed, one of
+the most lovely spots in Greenland. Open and pleasantly situated on
+the grassy sward, and enclosed in a wide semicircle of high mountains,
+it makes a good impression on all comers; how much more so on us,
+comparatively raised from the dead!</p>
+
+<p>“Hurrah! hurrah! European houses, Friedrichsthal!” Indeed, there lay
+before us two low, red-painted houses. At this moment sprang up a
+most welcome breeze, and from our flagstaff the German flag fluttered
+lustily. I sat behind, with the glass to my eye, viewing the land. At
+the door of the mission-house a blue dress was visible for a moment,
+and then disappeared; now came a whole company from the house down to
+the strand; they had seen us. The rocks of the look-out hill, too,
+were alive. A European strode up and down, like an official guardian
+of order. Was it possible that in Greenland were already to be found
+harbour-masters and other government officers? What I had at first
+conjectured to be a heap of stones now stood upright. It was a group of
+oddly dressed human beings, natives, who crouching close together, with
+their skin clothes and fawn-coloured faces, could not be distinguished
+from the cliffs. Now the boats neared the shore. Even the water was
+alive. A man approached us in a canoe, but when he saw us would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span> have
+turned quickly back again. The call of the Europeans to him from the
+cliff made him bolder; he came towards us, greeted us, and nodding
+pleasantly accompanied us into the harbour.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1770_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1770_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">GROUP OF ESQUIMAUX.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Still it was uncertain whether the missionaries were Danish, but we
+heard,—“That is the German flag! They are our people! Welcome, welcome
+to Greenland!” Germans, Germans in Greenland! The first word after so
+long a time heard from strange lips was German; the first sound, our
+dear German mother-tongue; and their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span> people the first to offer us help
+and refreshment—who can describe our wonder and delight?</p>
+
+<p>The land reached, each wanted to be first on the bank. I sprang into
+shallow water. We almost forgot the boats; the men could not finish
+the work quickly enough. What hand-shaking and grasping on all sides.
+Words died away in the throat, and the voice trembled. The man from
+the cliffs, too, and the natives had come up to greet us. The supposed
+guardian of public security was Mr. Starick, the missionary, who with
+Mr. Gericke superintended the Mission. The good people opened their
+eyes when they heard some short details of our voyage! But this was
+Germany. As a token, we have Mr. Gericke’s command:—“Wives, go and
+get ready at once some good coffee; in the meantime, we men will drink
+a bottle of wine as a welcome.” No sooner said than done. Whilst the
+men on the strand were busy making fast and unloading the boats,
+we followed the missionaries to the house, relating and listening
+alternately.</p>
+
+<p>The mission-house is a small one-storied building. Like most of the
+European houses in Greenland, it was made in Denmark, brought piecemeal
+from the ship to this place, and at last set up there. It is not
+larger than the houses in the Erzgebirge, or the Harz; and from the
+red paint resembles the Swedish peasant-houses. The foundation is a
+rocky site covered with moss. The building of that, as well as of the
+unadorned wooden church, cost more trouble than the building of many a
+palace in Germany. Tediously must every piece have been brought from
+Julianeshaab, nearly eighty miles distant, in the small <i>umiaks</i>
+or women’s boats.</p>
+
+<p>The dwelling-houses are small, and not adapted for a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span> numerous
+family. Some rooms, such as the dining-room and the kitchen, are used
+jointly by the missionaries. The room in which we first were, was the
+sitting-room of Mr. Gericke, the superintendent of the community. It
+was plainly furnished; a sofa with cushions, a table, and some stuffed
+chairs, formed the whole of the furniture. The walls were decorated
+with photographs of missionaries. Homely and comfortable the room
+looked to us, however! It was painted with oil paint, and all looked
+clean and orderly. The long dispensed-with European cleanliness, and
+the feeling that we were once more in a circle where a German matron
+could exercise her beneficient activity, acted like a charm upon us.
+Even in Greenland, amongst everlasting ice, the German wife, we now
+found, had managed to provide a souvenir of her own country. Some
+flowers in the windows supplied a necessity which the coldness of the
+climate refused outside; for the garden before the house, the surface
+of which, as well as that before the Esquimaux dwellings and other
+favourable spots, had been ploughed, looked sad and dreary enough.
+Turnips, which alone thrive here, scarcely showed their first green.
+Entering the house, after crossing a stone hall, we reached the
+sitting-room of Mr. Gericke, which lay to the left. To the right lay
+Mr. Starick’s room. Another door led to the kitchen.</p>
+
+<p>Soon we sat in Mr. Gericke’s room at table, giving an account of our
+experiences, to the great astonishment of our hearers. Mr. Starick is
+a big, thin man, in his thirtieth year, a Lusatian, dressed partly in
+Greenland fashion (seal stockings and shoes). He is very talkative,
+though throughout the friendly conversation, his long<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> pipe seldom went
+out. His young wife came from one of the West Indian islands; she was
+sent to him by the mission. Mr. Gericke, a man of about fifty, had a
+European wife who was born in Greenland, and had been brought up at
+Gnadau, near Magdeburg. Their marriage is blessed with three children,
+from two to six years old. Not long did we have to wait for the women
+of the house. A white cloth flew over the table; a heaped-up dish of
+rusks had the place of honour, and near it appeared some beautiful
+shining butter. Then the amiable housewives brought in a mighty can of
+coffee. And for us—we set to work upon the good things of this life
+with an appetite which defies all description. We sat, talked, drank
+and eat. To our no little dismay, the contents of the dish of rusks had
+disappeared in an indecorously short space of time. We looked at one
+another with signs of astonishment, when lo! another stood before us.
+Captain Hegemann could not help saying something regarding modesty,
+and so on. But our hosts would not hear of it; on the contrary, begged
+us to set to work again, which friendly invitation a still unfortunate
+grumbling in the stomach made us willingly follow. With some apology,
+the contents of the second dish disappeared. How the good people
+rejoiced over our blessed appetites! I thought it would frighten them
+to think how much fourteen famished stomachs could contain! But not
+we alone, the men, too, sat in the church-room at a cheerful meal,
+and the <i>Schonroggen</i> (ship’s biscuits made of sifted rye-flour)
+disappeared there no less quickly. The good, good missionaries! What
+they possessed they brought out to help us. They offered us linen and
+clothes, but we had enough of them; what<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span> we greatly needed was a
+washing-day. As regards covering for the feet, we were badly off. But
+that want was speedily remedied. The store of shoes was brought out,
+and soon our pairs of feet were decked with rough Kamiken (Esquimaux
+boots made of seal leather).</p>
+
+<p>In a small room, near the church, in the school, we made our
+resting-place on the school forms, all packed close together. The
+church is really nothing but a bedroom; a black covered table marks the
+spot from whence the preacher speaks. Near the table is an harmonium.
+The men remained in the boats under the sail-roofing.</p>
+
+<p>In the Greenland village of Friedrichsthal no one was at home; men,
+women, and children were out on the island on the seal-hunt, or
+at the Fjord for the herring-fishing; only the female portion of
+the missionaries’ household was there. They had received us on the
+cliff with the others. The first impression made upon us by the
+natives was not unfavourable. Certainly these expressionless and
+plain physiognomies, with their broad flat faces, small, black, and
+somewhat crooked eyes, little stunted noses, and great swelling
+mouths, all set in black strips of hair, were not inviting; but the
+striking harmlessness and good nature of these half-wild people soon
+earned our fullest favour. As soon as they saw that we were friendly
+people, indeed the countrymen of their beloved missionaries, they were
+confiding towards us. The man who met us had brought the post; he
+was the overseer of a Greenland village, Igalorsoeitsiak, near Cape
+Farewell, and was named Jonathan. The missionaries praised him as a
+capital seal-hunter and an excellent man; he was very open-hearted and
+a great drinker.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> What was meant by <i>open-heartedness</i>, which,
+oddly enough, is also (it seems) to be met with in Greenland, I will
+not enter into, but the inclination for drink can certainly only refer
+to coffee; Jonathan was therefore, at least in our sense of the word,
+no “soaker.” Before anything else, we now wanted a pilot to guide us
+from Friedrichsthal further on our way. No one seemed more suited to
+this than Jonathan himself, and for this post he declared himself
+ready, only begging to be allowed first to settle his affairs at home.
+The permission was willingly granted. Jonathan hurried home. Had he
+not also to take the weighty news of our arrival to his people? and no
+true Greenlander could have foregone such an opportunity of showing his
+importance.</p>
+
+<p>Our friendly hosts would not hear of our immediate departure; but
+when we learnt that a royal Danish colonial ship, the brig Constance,
+Captain Bang, was expected in Julianeshaab every moment, and that we
+could not reckon upon any other opportunity this year of returning
+to Europe, unless the later coming Peru should take us, or that we
+should travel northwards thirty German miles to Ivikät, the place
+where cryolite is shipped, we determined to hasten to Julianeshaab,
+and if possible make our home voyage in the Constance. We had thought
+the ships running from Denmark to Greenland stopped at every European
+settlement along the coast to Cape Farewell, and had so understood the
+notice in Maury’s sailing directions. Here in Friedrichsthal, however,
+we learned better. A large vessel had never, on account of the ice,
+come any further than Julianeshaab. The southern trading-places and
+missions, Sudpröven, Lichtenau, Igdlopait, Nennortalik, Ostpröven,
+Friedrichsthal,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span> and Pamiädluk had to fetch all their necessaries
+in small sailing-boats from Julianeshaab or in the Greenland
+women’s boats. Remembering that Julianeshaab is eighty miles from
+Friedrichsthal, and that the light, fragile hide-boats can only be used
+in fine weather, one can easily see that it is no easy matter for the
+poor Friedrichsthalers to provide their yearly stock of provisions.</p>
+
+<p>We further learned that, for the moment, the missionaries, on account
+of the non-arrival of the provision transports the year before, had
+but little to spare. The German mission in Greenland is provided with
+all and everything they want for the support of life from Copenhagen,
+by the Moravian Mission Society. Every year one of the ships takes the
+goods, and in the summer visits once both South and North Greenland,
+from whence the parties concerned provide means of further transport.
+The often unfavourable situation of the ice, and sometimes the loss of
+the ship, prevents the cargo from always falling into the hands of the
+rightful owner. To meet such an emergency, the stations have mostly a
+year’s store in advance.</p>
+
+<p>Our friends the Friedrichsthalers, might well find that, on account of
+the ice, they could not reach Julianeshaab; we ought, therefore, not to
+make too great a hole in their provisions. So we resolved that, as soon
+as Jonathan returned, we would travel on. For to-morrow and the next
+day we would stay where we were.</p>
+
+<p>About three o’clock, an excellent meal was served up, upon which we
+set to work valiantly. This is the <i>menu</i>: wine-soup, roast kid,
+with a mess of potatoes (dried<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> potatoes); then pancakes and pickled
+gherkins, with light white wine.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon, curiosity moved me to pay another visit to the
+Esquimaux village. All the houses stood empty; the windows were taken
+out, the inside was stiff with dirt. The huge dung-heap, which here
+never fails at any Greenland dwelling, spreads a pestilential odour,
+and it is not to be wondered at that millions of flies crawl in and
+around, setting the heaps perfectly in motion. In the absence of men,
+some goats received us; and as I seated myself at the other end of the
+village, to take a sketch of the mission, the horned fourfooted beasts
+took me for some exotic dainty, and nibbled at me so all over, that I
+was at last obliged to go away, followed by a herd of them.</p>
+
+<p>And now it was time for the evening meal—a large dish of milk-soup,
+and a mountain of excellent egg-cakes. The missionaries have chickens,
+which in the summer, when the village is deserted, find plenty of
+nourishment. Over this, of course, much was asked and related.
+Strangely enough, we now learned that, quite unintentionally, we had
+found the best way from East Greenland. Prince Christian Sound was,
+according to the missionaries, quite blocked with ice and difficult to
+cross, being filled up with earth as we thought it was not; and our
+Fjord was a discovery. We were also enlightened as to why we had not
+seen any inhabitants. All Greenlanders have a great dread of the men
+who live high up in the north on the east side, and who, according
+to their ideas, are cannibals. (See, too, Graah’s communications on
+this head.) This idea may be an echo of the old Norse traditions.
+Imagine us, therefore, in our three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span> boats, things never before seen
+coming from the north along the coast! Must we not have filled the
+faint-hearted, superstitious Greenlanders with indescribable terror,
+and wherever they saw us, put them to a hurried flight? We may have
+sailed close under their villages; it is even possible that, at
+Sedlevik, we passed the night close to one of them. But the low,
+oven-shaped, grass-overgrown huts can only be seen and recognized when
+close against them, or when the eye is familiar with their appearance;
+besides which, the Eastlanders go between the islands to catch the
+seals. The greater part of them were, therefore, absent.<a id="FNanchor_25" href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> Of
+their condition the missionaries knew little. In former times, some
+intercourse had been kept up with them, and on Alluk Island there was
+every year a sort of exchange market between East and West Greenland.
+This had long since been given up. Visits from the east side were very
+rare.<a id="FNanchor_26" href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> The people are, it is said, finer and stronger than those of
+West Greenland, and have light and brown hair. Does not this remind
+us of the old Northmen? If it happens that East Greenlanders settle
+in the west, they must first be acclimatized; they must go through a
+skin disease, which the missionaries call “Eskimokrätze.” It<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span> is not
+contagious, and the natives of the west coast never suffer from it.
+Amongst the inhabitants of Friedrichsthal, was a woman from the east;
+she and her children formed the only family unbaptized; all the others
+were Christians. Thus we had much to talk about; and it was getting
+late when we retired to our couch in the schoolroom. The latter, with
+the bedroom (the church), forms an additional building to the mission
+house. How wonderful it seemed to us that, for the first time since
+the 2nd of January, we could take off our clothes ere we lay down to
+rest! How free from care we could give ourselves up to sleep! How many
+anxious terrible nights lay behind us!—now, all was happily passed! We
+had already finished our night toilet when the door opened, and there
+in his never-ending goodness came Mr. Starick, laden with beer, in case
+we should be thirsty in the night. Beer! What German could withstand
+that! The bottles were uncorked, and soon the foaming drink filled the
+tankard, doing all honour to its Greenland brewer.</p>
+
+<p>It was late when sleep overtook us, tired out! Once more did the
+picture of the past vividly recur to our minds, from the tragedy of our
+shipwreck, to the happy moment which brought us to Friedrichsthal; and
+in our inmost hearts we all ejaculated, “God be thanked!”</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br>
+<span class="subhed">FURTHER STAY IN FRIEDRICHSTHAL. JOURNEY VIÂ IGIKAIT TO NENNORTALIK.<a id="FNanchor_27" href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Occurrences and impressions in Friedrichsthal.—Intercourse
+with the natives.—Matrons and maidens.—Provision
+cellars in Greenland.—Good qualities and quickness of
+the Greenlander.—Delay of our departure.—Fishery in
+Narksamiut.—Presents at parting.—Burying-places near
+Friedrichsthal.—Farewell and departure from Friedrichsthal.—A
+European recluse at Igikait.—The Danish settlers.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Early the next morning friend Starick appeared with a bountiful
+breakfast. The yesterday’s demolition of biscuits was repeated, only
+quicker, as we were alone. Then we set to work upon our morning
+toilet; one after the other turned out as much cleansed and “got-up”
+as possible. Our men had done the same, particularly Philipp, who
+looked quite grand. No wonder that he at once made himself master of
+a Greenland maiden’s heart. Outside, meanwhile, the women had been
+washing the linen we had taken off.</p>
+
+<p>We had not to wait long for new scenes and impressions of the strangest
+kind. Already some canoes had come in, and their conductors had
+approached our boats quite confidingly. These small, black little
+fellows, I took for boys of fourteen, but was told that they were
+married people and fathers of families. Of course, everything that
+was given to them was useful, and they were soon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span> good friends with
+our men. Not a little proudly did each one bring out his rifle and
+powder-horn from his canoe; but when our men took the “needle-guns” and
+fired rapidly, they were dumb with astonishment, and stood with their
+mouths wide open. The musical-box which we had with us caused little
+less wonderment. It was too ridiculous to see the amazement of the
+little men, as well as the women, at the tinkling box. I think if Mr.
+Starick himself had not been there, their thoughts would have turned
+to the long-forgotten “Tornik,”<a id="FNanchor_28" href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> their evil genius, and we should
+have been taken for enchanters; but their friendship was heartier than
+ever. The missionary and our pilots were shooting at the target on the
+strand, and the natives kept watch, while others visited the servants
+in their houses, who were busy making shoes for those of us who needed
+them. I presented each one with a sewing-needle, and earned a friendly
+“Kojunok” (I thank you much for it), which was the first Greenland word
+I learnt. I cannot affirm that the Greenland ladies are bashful, for
+during our stay in the women’s house the cook Luise came in, and quite
+coolly in our presence made the most critical alterations in her dress.
+The girls and women looked goodnatured and dull; there were eight of
+them, as I tried to draw them in my pocket-book; and Eva, whom I fully
+portrayed, was not a little vain. We also allowed them to write their
+names in our note-books, whereat the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span> fair Greenlanders displayed the
+same naive coyness and affectation as our lovely ones at home. What a
+tittering and whispering, what turning and twisting! At last they all
+stood on the page; even the honoured fifty-year old Miss Sybilla had,
+with much bashfulness, entered her name. When we went away they thanked
+us for our visit.</p>
+
+<p>But a curiosity was still to be seen this morning in the shape of a
+Greenland cellar or store-house. The respected reader must not think
+of a similar locality in our country. The Greenlanders are contented
+in this respect with an excavation in the overhanging rock, which they
+build up with a stone wall like a swallow’s nest. In this, without
+any choice, is heaped all that is good for winter use—dried fish,
+seal-bacon, and meat—until the place is full, when the last hole is
+blocked up with a stone. Such cellars the Greenlanders like to have
+away from their houses. Accustomed to live from hand to mouth, they are
+no friends to saving. They eat as long as there is anything there, or
+they see anything. When, however, the cellar with its store is not near
+them, and cannot provoke their appetite, then, in the long winter-time,
+when there would often be poor fare, they have something to fall back
+upon. It never enters their heads to injure the possessions of another;
+so they need never fear that their neighbour will empty their cellar.
+The missionaries praised their converts particularly for their honesty,
+and assured us that nothing but the bitterest hunger would occasionally
+tempt any of them to take anything eatable from their neighbour.</p>
+
+<p>Even in this respect we had nothing to complain of but something more I
+can say to the honour of the good Greenlanders. There was scarcely one
+who could not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span> write his own name; and it is really astonishing what
+fine regular handwriting is to be met with. Even a poor little boy, too
+weak to paddle a canoe, who worked in the mission as a day-labourer for
+his meals, could write his name well and distinctly. I can also call
+the Greenlanders a musical community, in spite of compassionate smiles.
+The horn-music in their church they provide themselves; the organ,
+too, is superintended by a sleek Greenlander; and more than that, he
+writes hymns and composes music himself. Observe also the artistic way
+in which the Greenland women ornament leather. With what trouble and
+patience they make the finest mosaic of different coloured leathers no
+bigger than the head of a pin, sewing them together to adorn shoes and
+such like things; and how, under good guidance, they acquire a taste
+for clean and well-ordered households.</p>
+
+<p>Good guidance is, however, very necessary. The Greenland men and women
+whom we saw later, were as different from those of the mission of
+Friedrichsthal as night is from day, and the real specific Greenland
+household, we could only learn to know by degrees.</p>
+
+<p>At table to-day our host told us that he had been informed by the
+natives that, a few days before, they had heard from the neighbours
+that some people were coming from the east, and that they had been much
+frightened about it, but were composed now, as we were the expected
+arrival. From the first it may be that the news of our coming had
+spread among the natives, owing to our having been seen in the distance
+among the islands. But the Greenlanders have the evil propensity of
+speaking contrary to the truth to please one.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, later on, we heard that our floe had been met<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span> with, and that,
+if we liked, we might satisfy ourselves that such was the case. They
+also related how that they had seen the Germania at full steam near
+Cape Farewell; they had begged them to pilot them to Friedrichsthal, or
+anywhere to land; but they had not listened to them, and the steamer
+had at once sailed from the coast northwards. Strange it always seemed
+to us; but the missionaries assured us that they certainly expected to
+see some one from the German expedition. Shortly before our arrival
+they had said, “Now they must soon come.” They had mentioned it to the
+natives, and when they saw us and prepared to fly, Starick composed
+them by the words, “They are our countrymen, who we told you would
+come.” They had also rightly concluded that, from the condition of the
+ice around Friedrichsthal, we should have much difficulty in reaching
+the coast. As during the summer months but little ice had shown itself
+at Cape Farewell, all the more must have remained above. At the same
+time, it was so thick at the end of September, that the missionaries
+were obliged to give up their official journey. This setting of the ice
+southward we not long afterwards traced to the accelerated speed of the
+drift.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon Jonathan’s brother, Esra, came to visit his friends.
+We had just retreated to the schoolroom, when he peeped curiously in
+at the window, and we signed to him to come in. He did not wait to be
+asked twice. How just seemed his claim to a gift! A handful of tobacco
+went straight to the mouth, but his sharp eye had lit upon another
+dainty morsel, the worth of which we certainly underrated. In the
+fireplace lay the end of a cigar; Esra picked it up, and asked if he
+might have it. We then found several pieces for him<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span> about the room.
+But a number of these stumps disappeared at once. I could not conceive
+where, and told him so; when he grinningly opened his wide mouth,
+pointing to either side, where, between teeth and cheeks, lay a store.
+Hence the reason that the Greenland men have such great swellings in
+the lower jaw.</p>
+
+<p>We gave up our intention of starting the next day, at the special
+request of our hosts. They affirmed that by Cape Egede, which we must
+pass, there was a great deal of ice, and gave it as their opinion
+that the north wind now blowing would in a day or two open up a path.
+In the evening, Missionary Starick and Mr. Hildebrandt rowed up the
+Narksamiut. They went to a place in the centre of the Fjord, where
+about eighty women and children were busy with the herring fishery. The
+Greenland herrings, the “Angmaksätten” as the natives call them, are
+for them as important as the seal; they form their chief nourishment.
+If the draught is bad, famine is at hand. Like our herrings, these
+small smelt-like fishes (<i>Mallotus arcticus</i>, Fabr.) rush into the
+Fjords in great numbers in the evening, and are taken out of the water
+in sack-nets by women and children. Without either cleaning or opening
+they are then simply laid on the grass until the sun has dried them
+sufficiently; they are then collected into an old skin sack, or stowed
+in any other way for the winter, and eventually consumed after being
+dipped in oil. As they became aware of the presence of the boats, the
+women broke into a howl of terror; some even fled to the tent. At last
+they saw their friend Starick, and became somewhat calmer, soon quite
+confiding; and the boys paddled their canoes in emulation round the
+boats. They promised the home-returning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span> ones some fresh “Angmaksätten”
+early the next day, and they kept their word. Two great tubs of fish
+arrived the next morning, and prepared by the careful hand of our
+hostess came on table for breakfast. We did them justice, for they were
+excellent.</p>
+
+<p>To-day, too, some canoes came to visit us; and amongst our sailors were
+soon some to be found, who wished to try a voyage in these light craft,
+which certainly for an unpractised man are very difficult to manage.
+The reader, unversed in the customs and usages of the Greenlanders,
+must know that they have two different sorts of boats, the “Kajak,” and
+the “Umiak.” The Kajak, or canoe, is about eighteen feet long, very
+narrow and low, the thin ribs of which are covered with seal’s leather.
+In the middle of this skin-covered boat is a circular opening, large
+enough for the body of a man. Here sits the paddler. He must sit with
+his legs stretched out straight before him, to keep his balance, and
+work his way forward by means of the double stroke of the paddle. On
+the deck before him the Greenlander has his hunting tackle, bird and
+seal harpoons, lances and slings, and on a particular table some rolled
+up harpoon-thongs made of sealskin. Behind him the canoe bears, besides
+provisions and booty, an inflated sealskin, which, attached to the
+harpoon, prevents the seal just shot from sinking.</p>
+
+<p>The canoe is the men’s exclusive vehicle; boys of twelve years old have
+their canoes, and make good practice with them. It is in any case their
+chief possession, and is as important to them as the flint is to our
+hunter. In the community of the Moravian missionaries, where the native
+poor are recognized as a class, the men and children receive a canoe
+fitted up as a means of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span> subsistence. At the same time, any man who is
+not too old and too feeble, thinks it beneath his dignity to sit in a
+Umiak. These boats are used by the women, and are called women’s boats.</p>
+
+<p>A Umiak is about thirty feet long and very narrow. Like the Kajak it
+is built of light ribs of deal, covered over with seal’s leather. The
+Umiak is flat-bottomed, constructed the same both fore and aft; the
+rim on both sides, with the inward-turned fork, extends somewhat over
+the body of the boat. The cavity thus formed by the fork serves for
+the attachment of tow-ropes, as well as to make fast the boats when
+they are pulled out of the water. For this purpose they use besides
+heavy stones, as, in spite of their size, these skin-boats are so
+light that a storm will carry them through the air. From six to eight
+women, who sit on small seats in the after-part, set them in motion
+with a shovel-shaped oar, by springing from their seats, and after
+three strokes stopping for a time. The large well-to-do families have
+each their Umiak, but smaller and poor ones have one in common. In
+every Mission, too, some are to be met with; for however fragile these
+vessels seem to be, and at first, from the water oozing through the
+sealskin, very uncomfortable, they are generally, even by Europeans,
+admitted to be the most desirable means of conveyance. The missionaries
+use them on their coast voyages, which extend more than 120 miles.
+Certainly they can stand neither rough sea nor ice, and in unfavourable
+weather have to lie on shore for days together; on the other hand,
+they are light to carry, and in spite of their fragile appearance are
+wonderfully firm and capacious. Such a skin-boat can carry a weight of
+thirty<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span> Danish tons. A Umiak, however, never travels alone—a man in
+a Kajak (the Kajalik) always accompanies it. Either it is the owner
+himself, or some other native (as for example is customary with the
+travelling missionaries), hired for the purpose. At certain times,
+namely in summer, when the Greenlanders move from place to place, whole
+fleets of these vessels may be met with, which on such occasions are
+generally lively enough.</p>
+
+<p>The bacon-face of old Sybilla, who had taken such a fancy to Philipp,
+or “Bilik” as she called him, beamed with delight as she saw her
+darling travelling round the harbour in a canoe. But it was not so easy
+to keep above water, and no easy task for an inexperienced person to
+keep the legs stretched out so straight. The natives, however, greeted
+this first attempt with joyful grins. They were already on the best of
+footing with our men, and a small exchange of civilities took place in
+the most peaceful and satisfactory way. Even the female servants at the
+mission were soon sociable and trustful. Konrad had installed himself
+precentor, and made the girls sing some choruses; and we were surprised
+to hear how true and correctly these people sang. Certainly they
+drawled every melody frightfully; and the execution of the hymn, “We
+had built a stately house,” to which they had adapted Greenland words,
+sounded in most wonderful fashion from the lips of the native ladies.</p>
+
+<p>We had already gone to rest, when two Umiaks with women and children
+arrived from the Fjord, and at once encamped by our boats, carrying on
+such a loud conversation through the night, that no one could sleep.
+As we came down to the strand the next morning, it was alive with men,
+women, and children, who from their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span> dirty appearance showed to great
+disadvantage compared with the people of the mission. For the last time
+we sat in the hospitable circle of the Friedrichsthalers at breakfast:
+we then took our departure. The few days we had spent here had served
+to attach us so sincerely to the inhabitants of the Mission, that
+parting was painful; with much emotion we spoke our thanks to our dear
+kind hosts. We took leave of the women on the shore who had remained
+behind, and also of the natives who had come to see us. The good
+Friedrichsthalers had provided us plentifully with food—fresh baked
+bread, butter, sugar and coffee. With three cheers we set to at the
+oars, and soon the “Look-out” mountain hid the friendly Friedrichsthal
+from our eyes.</p>
+
+<p>We were accompanied in state. Mr. Gericke and his little daughter
+conducted us in the Umiak, which was also filled with the whole
+household, as far as the next station; and twelve natives in canoes
+formed our escort. On the other side of the Narksamiut, under the
+before-mentioned high towering cape, lies Igikait, the Herjulfsnäs of
+the old Norsemen. There is but little of the walls left as evidence
+of former European dwellings; but some years ago it is said that
+the waters of the Narksamiut washed up a coffin with the body of
+an ordained priest. At this day there lives in the long-abandoned
+settlement an old European, who has learnt to renounce the world,
+and as a free man with little means leads a life of liberty. This
+inhabitant of Igikait is named Hagen, a tough, hospitable Dane, in his
+fiftieth year, who came into the country as a subordinate official,
+and married a half-caste woman, a “Blanding,”<a id="FNanchor_29" href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> now with the
+permission of the Government lives a sort of improvised idyl at
+Igikait. His whole wealth consists of a large herd of goats, which in
+summer find plenty of nourishment on the green coast. He and his family
+live in a house constructed exactly like the Greenlanders’, but more
+roomy, and it differed in the interior by being clean and airy. His
+wife and daughter, like all the people here, except Europeans, wear the
+Greenland women’s dress; the difference, however, is favourably seen in
+those of European descent, and struck us in these women, for up to this
+time we had only seen full-blooded Greenlanders. Indeed, Hagen’s slim
+daughter, with her delicate complexion and dreamy northern features,
+did not look amiss. A son of Mr. Hagen’s had a situation in Jvigtuk
+as trader in the service of the Danish Company. The youngest son was
+to accompany us in his canoe to Nennortalik, where he was going to be
+confirmed.</p>
+
+<p>After our greeting, we did not stay long at Igikait. Hagen had spread
+his treasures on the shore; that is, he had prepared a row of tubs
+full of fresh milk, and invited us in an idiom, composed of Danish,
+Greenlandish, and broken German to partake of them. Those who wanted
+any took moderately, and in order to put the poor man to no further
+trouble, we took a hasty leave. Mr. Gericke remained behind with the
+people of the mission. It was really a hard moment when we shook hands
+with him and his for the last time. The good girls could not help
+weeping, and gave us their hands over and over again. As we sat in the
+boats and pushed from the shore, they called and nodded after us. We
+journeyed on; the neighbourhood of Friedrichsthal soon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span> disappeared
+from our sight; our convoy had also diminished; some canoes had
+remained in Igikait, and some had gone back. We were now alone with
+Jonathan, Hagen’s son (whom we were to take to Nennortalik), and a
+volunteer, who having just had a son born to him begged Mr. Hildebrandt
+to be godfather to it. We had thrown a rope to Jonathan, who as pilot
+tugged with all his might at the flotilla, while our volunteer made all
+kinds of artistic strokes with his weapons.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p1981_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p1981_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_198"><i>Page 198.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">BOAT-JOURNEY IN COMPANY WITH A CANOE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Although the ice on our way reached pretty close to the land, we came
+across no hindrance; only that, as the wind was against us, we had to
+lay upon our oars. Wild mountain chains formed with their sharply cut
+contours a most lovely distant view. About noon we caught sight of a
+high Greenland mountain; like an obelisk, the thin rocky peak rises
+boldly into the clouds.<a id="FNanchor_30" href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[29]</a> Cape Egede, too, of evil repute on account
+of the piled-up ice, came in sight. At a small island (which bore the
+high-sounding though not easily pronounced name “Kikertarsoeitsiak”)
+we landed for a short rest. Some ptarmigan provoked the bloodthirsty
+appetites of our hunters at once; and even our Greenland godfather
+could not allow this opportunity of showing his dexterity in
+fire-arms to pass, without availing himself of it. Once more we were
+all together, and the cold cakes from Friedrichsthal were <span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span>very
+acceptable. Even for the natives who, lying on the rocks, were watching
+our movements with longing eyes, we laid out two good portions; for
+Mr. Starick told us that we were to give our pilot Jonathan something,
+if we did not wish to wound his feelings; indeed he would have felt
+it so deeply, that very little would have made him turn back and go
+home. There was, therefore, nothing left for us to do, but leave the
+godfather’s empty stomach unsupplied. But Jonathan was a good fellow;
+as he received his share, he divided it good-naturedly with his
+countryman, and both chewed with full cheeks as for a wager.</p>
+
+<p>About four o’clock, we reached the vicinity of Nennortalik—in German,
+“Bear Island.” Here is a small Danish store, or provision depôt; this
+was the end of this day’s journey, and was about half way to Lichtenau.
+Over against this island lie others, which rise into rather high steep
+mountains. Not until the harbour is reached, do the few houses of the
+place come in sight. We had been already seen from the land; soon we
+were surrounded by a whole fleet of canoes; and Jonathan, who had
+fastened his up, and now sat with us in the boat, thought not a little
+of this new honour. As we neared the island, some of our companions
+left us and hurried forwards; and not long afterwards loud salvos were
+heard, as if the destruction of a fortress were determined on, the
+surrounding mountains re-echoing the sound two and threefold. For a
+festive reception from the Danes we were not in the least prepared;
+there was no end to the firing. As we turned the last rocky promontory,
+which had hidden Nennortalik from our view, we saw that the banks of
+the harbour were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span> crowded with people, from the midst of whom shots
+rose in the air every now and then. Again and again the crowd broke
+into howls of delight. More than three hundred natives—men, women,
+and children—waited our arrival. We had hoisted our flag. As a return
+greeting, the Danish colours fluttered from the station-house. We had
+some difficulty in preventing the people, in their willingness to
+serve us, from pulling us to land in the boats. The men really tore
+each other, in order to lay their hands on the painter. At length the
+figure of a European pushed through the crowd; it was the merchant, Mr.
+Rosing, who now welcomed us, and invited us to accept his hospitality.
+The ceremonious politeness of the man left us in doubt as to whether he
+had provided this festive reception for us; but he soon enlightened us
+himself. He admitted openly, that for his part he would not have wasted
+so much powder upon us; besides which, it was Esra who had gone from
+one island to the other, relating our story, and had thus caused all
+the natives to assemble from all parts to receive us in this alarming
+manner. I had already seen Esra’s friendly face in the crowd and
+nodded to him; that his countrymen should be assembled in such numbers
+seemed to make him very happy. Shortly after our landing, the natives
+dispersed in their “Umiaks” and “Kajaks.” It had not escaped me that
+the type of population at Nennortalik differed essentially from that
+of Friedrichsthal. What we afterwards remarked in all Danish colonies
+and outlying towns we here noticed for the first time, namely, the
+preponderance of European features, even amongst the Greenland natives.
+Indeed, those who wish to know the genuine unmixed Greenlanders, will
+only find them at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span> Moravian mission-villages in South Greenland;
+the people of the Danish settlements and their neighbourhood, are for
+the most part “Blandings,” amongst whom the European stamp prevails.
+Even in Nennortalik we saw girls with flaxen hair, blue eyes, and
+delicate white complexions; the men’s physiognomies, too, were far
+more intelligent than in the full-blooded Greenlander; here and there
+we saw beards, though very scanty ones. Owing to the thinly-scattered
+population of Greenland, one must not be astonished at the striking
+mixture of the European race which everywhere prevails; and still less
+so, when one takes into consideration that, owing to circumstances,
+an intermingling of the natives with the Europeans must occur; the
+missionaries and the higher civil officers of the Danish colonies have
+European wives, and their children are brought up in Europe. Again,
+the lower servants—coopers, carpenters, oil-melters, and so on—from
+their scanty earnings, are not in a position to keep their families in
+European style: circumstances compel them, accordingly, to marry in
+Greenland. The issue of these marriages never have the opportunity of
+being educated in Europe. In some cases they are engaged by the Danish
+Government, or some relations in their own country take them; but, as
+I said before, few are so fortunate; the greater number remain in the
+country, adopting its customs, language, dress, and manners of living,
+and retaining but little signs of their descent beyond the features. I
+had the opportunity of making acquaintance with the fourth generation
+of a Danish family which had become entirely Greenlandish. Considering
+this change in so short a time, we can no longer wonder that, on
+his arrival in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span> Greenland, Hans Egede found no trace of his Norse
+countrymen who had settled there hundreds of years before. The remains
+of them had been absorbed amongst the natives.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Rosing, who welcomed us kindly to his house, informed us that he
+had authentic news that the brig Constance had reached Julianeshaab.
+He regretted at the same time that he had not heard of us before, as
+shortly before our arrival he had sent a boat to Julianeshaab, which
+could have announced our arrival there. Now, he maintained, there was
+little prospect that the Constance would take us with her; for having
+a second Greenland journey to make this summer, she would only unload
+and put to sea again; that she had been much hindered by the ice, and
+therefore her stay in Julianeshaab would consist of only a few days.
+Further, Mr. Rosing affirmed that we could not reach the colony in time
+to accompany her. He consoled us with the prospect of Ivikät, a station
+lying sixteen miles north from Julianeshaab in the Arsut Fjord, where
+generally in summer several ships come to load with Kryolite.<a id="FNanchor_31" href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> The
+prospect of a long boat voyage, however, did not please us. What should
+we do now? After a short consultation, we formed our resolutions. As
+the boat had already left Nennortalik, we had to look out for another,
+naturally our eyes fell upon Jonathan. At the same time we begged
+Mr. Rosing to write to the superintendent of the colony, and ask him
+to assure us a passage in the Constance. Mr. Rosing was willing, and
+Jonathan<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span> was soon won over. We should stay in Lichtenau for the answer.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner, while Mr. Rosing was writing the letter, we took a walk
+round the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>Nennortalik belongs to the superior class of settlements in Greenland.
+The dwelling-houses of the merchants, painted black, with white
+window-frames and peaceful-looking gardens, make a pleasing impression;
+but the houses of the natives are built of stone and turf, some having
+a roof made of planks nailed together. The fittings of the interior
+were thoroughly Greenlandish. A narrow low passage leads to a room
+of very modest dimensions, with a wainscoting all round. The greater
+part of this room is taken up with the wooden benches, which form the
+sleeping-place of all the inhabitants. The walls are decorated with
+gaudy lithographs, sometimes even gilt-framed looking-glasses. Next to
+the window, as a luxury, stands a small table; and instead of chairs,
+one or two chests.</p>
+
+<p>To a European, a stay in such a house is a difficult matter. The
+evaporation from its occupants, the train-oil lamps, the half-putrid
+food, the state of corruption of the skin-clothing, poison the
+atmosphere to such a degree that it is almost impossible to breathe.
+There are means of airing the dwellings, in the large window which
+takes up the whole south side of the wall, but it is so besmeared, that
+the daylight only comes in thick and gloomy; still it never enters the
+heads of the people to open it. The island itself is wild and rather
+flat, strewn with erratic boulders; and on the west side it rises to a
+high mountain ridge, the outer promontory of which forms the well-known
+Cape<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span> Egede. Mosses, lichens, cranberries, and bilberries, form of
+their kind a luxuriant vegetation, if the term “luxuriant” is not
+inappropriately applied to these waste rocks.</p>
+
+<p>Jonathan was soon ready for the journey, but begged, as he received
+the letter, that he might have a few hours’ rest; as he feared that,
+if not, he should be overtaken by sleep and so not arrive at the right
+time; promising to hurry afterwards and bring the answer to Lichtenau
+without delay. This was willingly granted to the good fellow. The
+evening we spent with our kind host; at night a small house sheltered
+us, which is set apart by the colony for strange travellers; for
+whoever travels in Greenland must be beholden to hospitality, as there
+are no inns. Our room was, of course, not fitted up with too much
+comfort; but our sleep was, nevertheless, a blessed one.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER X.<br>
+<span class="subhed">LICHTENAU. EXCURSION TO THE ISLAND OF UNARTOK. JOURNEY TO
+JULIANESHAAB.<a id="FNanchor_32" href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[31]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Departure from Nennortalik.—Igdlopait.—Mission in
+Igdlopait.—Arrival in Lichtenau.—Greenland women.—Mode of
+Life in Lichtenau.—Message from Julianeshaab.—Determination
+to remain still in Lichtenau.—Evening service.—Excursion to
+the Island of Unartok.—Warm springs there.—Another message
+from Julianeshaab.—Prospect of returning home.—Parting
+presents.—Departure from Lichtenau.—Arrival in Julianeshaab.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Cheerfully we started the next morning, with a favourable breeze. The
+straits between the island Sermesok were rapidly passed through, past
+Tessermiut and Unartok Fjords as they are all called. By noon we had
+reached Igdlopait. This island is a branch of the Lichtenau mission. A
+missionary with wife and children lives here amongst eighty natives. As
+our boat neared the island, the shore became alive with people; here
+no one had an idea of our visit. Mr. Starick related our story to the
+crowd assembled on the banks in a few words, and went before us up to
+the mission. Mr. Starick’s speech raised the people’s interest in us.
+An old grey-headed Greenlander held out his hand to me, saying, “I
+thank God with you that He saved you so wonderfully, and brought you to
+us.” Igdlopait, the youngest of the mission stations under the care of
+Mr. Warmow, is in a lonely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span> situation on an island. The inhabitants are
+dirty and filthy to a degree. The men’s skin-clothes were torn, and the
+women were going about with wild unkempt hair.</p>
+
+<p>The mission-house, neat and attractive, with a grey slate roof,
+seemed to invite us hospitably. A smooth road led from the village to
+the dwelling of the missionary, Mr. Hilbig. He was not at home, but
+had gone with his colleague from Lichtenau to the Fjord, to collect
+wood for the winter. His wife, a friendly countrywoman, welcomed us
+heartily. Not less amiable was Mrs. Warmow from Lichtenau, who happened
+to be on a visit to her. In order to provide for our unexpected
+quartering, Mrs. Warmow decided to return at once with us. We were
+really sorry to leave Mrs. Hilbig alone in Igdlopait. What a task,
+what deprivations does the wife of a Greenland missionary take upon
+herself one may imagine, by picturing the loneliness which surrounds
+a missionary’s family on a barren island in the Arctic Sea, bare of
+trees and shrubs, among a rough people but little susceptible of
+civilization, natives whose culture and salvation they unceasingly
+sacrifice themselves to promote. A few goats and hens form her only
+companionship. Even the blossom and fruit of family life the poor
+settlers dare only half enjoy, for custom and order demand that, when
+the missionaries’ children are about seven years old, they shall be
+sent to Europe to be brought up in a school of the fraternity. They
+do not see their parents again for many years, when they have become
+comparative strangers to them.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p2062_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p2062_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_207"><i>Page 207.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">LICHTENAU, MISSION-STATION IN SOUTH-WEST GREENLAND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>We would not stay longer than was necessary; and as Mrs. Warmow could
+not be dissuaded from accompanying us, we started in the boats at four
+in the afternoon. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span>Without a guide it would have been impossible to
+have gone any distance, as a thick fog had fallen, which in Greenland
+happens invariably with the north wind.</p>
+
+<p>In about three hours we had reached Lichtenau. This is the oldest South
+Greenland German Mission (it was founded in 1772), and lies four miles
+inwards in the Lichtenau Fjord, which stretches thirty-two miles beyond
+it. On a small half-island, crowned with a rocky plateau, stands the
+mission and the native village, the huts of which are grouped around
+the rocks in the form of an amphitheatre.</p>
+
+<p>The mission-house of Lichtenau is the largest we have seen. Three
+missionaries work here: Mr. Warmow (as superintendent), and Messrs.
+Spindler and Kögel. Like that of Friedrichsthal, it is made of wood,
+and is only one story high. On the ground-floor is a large schoolroom,
+kitchen, store-room, and guest-room; up one flight of stairs the
+friendly and comfortable dwelling of the missionary. A small vegetable
+garden lies in front of the house. On one side of the road stands the
+old decaying church, and on the other storehouses and stables. The
+harbour is very comfortable, and allows the boats to lie steady on the
+soft sand. As we neared Lichtenau we were at once seen, as the fog had
+rolled on to the land, and every one ran down to the strand to see the
+strangers from far distant Europe. Although the greater part of the
+inhabitants of Lichtenau were out at the seal fishery, there were more
+at home than there were at Friedrichsthal; and we were soon convinced
+that the Greenlander, left to himself, would never appreciate the
+comfort and advantage of German cleanliness. We were filled with horror
+at the sight of some old crones,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span> whom curiosity had allured from
+their huts. The features of the young girls and women are, according
+to our æsthetic opinions, far below the level of the agreeable, and
+the bodily mien is more repulsive than attractive. The dress of the
+Greenland women differs little from that of the men. They wear boots
+covered with gaudy leather embroidery, which reach to the knee; short
+drawers of sealskin, which without straps are hung around the hips,
+fitting closely to the body; and the coat-of-mail shaped “Natzek,”
+pointed before and behind, which proceeds from the fur round the body.
+The narrow drawers compel them to walk with bent knees and body bent
+forward, shuffling one foot before the other, giving them somewhat the
+appearance of apes. If this in itself is not nice, imagine a pair of
+old crones, with all the burden and deformity of old age; and added to
+that, broad, wrinkled faces, with noses smeared thickly with snuff,
+and bleared eyes, surrounded with disordered fluttering grey hair! I
+made as large a détour as possible, to avoid the crowd, in advancing to
+meet the approaching missionary, Mr. Spindler, and his kind wife, who
+welcomed us heartily, and expressed their pleasure in receiving such
+an unexpected visit from countrymen. Mr. Spindler, a very intelligent
+and learned man, who gave us much information on Greenland affairs,
+is in the prime of life, and seems not yet to be quite acclimatized.
+Mrs. Spindler, a lively talkative woman, provided for us as well as
+she could. The mission-house shelters three missionaries and their
+families. Only Mr. Spindler was at home, his two colleagues having
+gone to fetch wood from the Lichtenau Fjord: whilst the northern lying
+coast, namely the neighbourhood of Lichtenfels, receives<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span> every year
+a considerable quantity of drift-wood from the Arctic current, the
+missionaries in the south are obliged to bring all necessary firing,
+partly from Europe, partly from the inside of the Fjord, and often
+from a great distance. The birch<a id="FNanchor_33" href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> and willow<a id="FNanchor_34" href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> are seldom seen
+on the outlying islands, and on the shore of the mainland are very
+scant of growth; but the farther one gets into the Fjord they become
+stranger and stouter, and the banks of inlets are often covered with a
+considerable quantity of brushwood as high as a man. This in the summer
+months is gathered, and often conveyed many days’ journey; for the
+source of supply is yearly more and more distant, owing to the slowness
+of the growth. European coals have long since had to help, as the moss
+here and there met with cannot be used.</p>
+
+<p>Like the firewood, the winter fodder for the live stock (Lichtenau
+possesses three oxen and some goats) has to be fetched with difficulty
+from a distance. The few small grass plats, which give a scanty crop of
+hay, lie miles apart, and often just as far from the mission. All this
+business is attended to by the missionaries and their wives; and during
+the short summer they are absent weeks together. Mr. Spindler wished
+at once to send for his colleague from the Fjord; but as we intended
+leaving the next day, in order to reach Julianeshaab in time to find
+the ship, we of course did not consent.</p>
+
+<p>Jonathan reappeared at last. He had, as the missionaries had premised,
+made all speed; but he had been delayed by the fog. His answer by
+word of mouth from the captain of the Danish ship was, that we were
+to come, and he would take us all with him. He also<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span> brought a letter
+from the Governor of the colony, which was very laconic: “The German
+Arctic Explorers could not sail in the Constance, as she must start at
+once, having to make another voyage to Greenland.” It further said,
+that we had better go on to Ivikät; that there we might meet with a
+vessel which would take us up. Of the possibility of the next expected
+ship, the Peru, granting us a passage, there was not one word. There
+we sat, but little edified by the amiability of the Danish official,
+consulting as to what we should do. In about three weeks the Peru
+might arrive; but the missionaries were of opinion that, from national
+considerations, we had less chance of a passage by this ship. But in
+any case, to travel to Ivikät by the boats would be very difficult;
+added to which, according to our calculations, it would take us at
+least ten days, supposing that the favourable weather we had previously
+had should still accompany us. And now the further question arose,
+should we, above all, find a ship there, which would take us? and, if
+so, what sort of one? Long we consulted. At last we decided, that as in
+any case we must now claim help from the mission-station, the head of
+the house should be called in from the Fjord, and as he should advise,
+so we would act.</p>
+
+<p>Again Mr. Starick and Mr. Hildebrandt undertook the boat journey.
+Dr. Laube would this time have liked to have been of the party, but
+for a long time past he had felt too unwell, and preferred remaining
+at home. That same evening some young fellows arrived in a boat from
+Julianeshaab on their way to Nennortalik. They thought they could not
+allow the opportunity to pass without obtaining at least a handful
+of tobacco, and, if<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span> possible, something to eat. As they had heard
+from Jonathan on the way of us and his mission, they improvised the
+message—we were to come to Julianeshaab at once, and take ship in the
+Constance.</p>
+
+<p>Their object, however, they did not attain, for the missionaries knew
+the men too well not to know what such a message was worth.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning the boat brought back Mr. Warmow and the messengers.
+The “Isersarnak,” or wind of the Fjord, which always blows inward,
+had helped him much on the outward journey, but had made the homeward
+much more difficult. Directly after breakfast we held a consultation.
+Mr. Warmow thought it better to waste no more words on the Dane, but
+try and take passage in a Kryolite ship from Ivikät.<a id="FNanchor_35" href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> The journey
+to that place he admitted to be very difficult, and he thought it
+unadvisable to begin it at once. He suggested that we should have a
+good rest at Lichtenau, and in about eight days start for Ivikät. Mr.
+Warmow’s kind proposition pleased us. We consented all the more readily
+as he promised to accompany us, Mr. Starick being compelled by time and
+circumstances to begin his return journey to Friedrichsthal as soon as
+possible. The proposal was therefore agreed to.</p>
+
+<p>And now I hoped to have an opportunity of scouring the neighbourhood.
+An excursion for the next day to the Island of Unartok and the Unartok
+Fjord, with a lodging at Igdlopait, was agreed upon. To-day (it was
+Sunday) we remained at home. As the greater part of the population were
+away, there was no early morning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span> prayer; but evening united us all in
+the schoolroom for a short service.</p>
+
+<p>It was a very strange spectacle that we here witnessed. In the old,
+decaying, plain-looking room, which might have been taken for a barn,
+if the small organ, some wind instruments, the benches, and a green
+covered table had not stamped it as something else, we sat with the
+missionaries’ wives on either side of the preacher; before us, on the
+benches, the native men and women, and our people. Near the preacher
+and ourselves stood the children. The service began with a Greenland
+hymn, which was sung by those present in the usual drawling manner, but
+otherwise very nicely. Then a sermon in their native tongue. The adult
+natives followed the discourse very devoutly; the children seemed but
+little impressed, and passed the time in amusing themselves. After the
+Greenland sermon followed a German hymn, which we sang badly enough
+without accompaniment, and then the preacher addressed a few earnest
+words to us which did not fail of their effect. In simple words, he
+thanked the Most High for our preservation; then a hymn, and it was
+over.</p>
+
+<p>The excursion was carried out the next day. The Island of Unartok,
+which is about twelve miles from Lichtenau, particularly interested
+us, because of the warm spring there. It had been mentioned by Ivar
+Bardsen, the ancient Northman chronicler, who wrote in the beginning
+of the fifteenth century upon the Norse settlements in Greenland.
+According to his account, a Benedictine nunnery stood in the
+neighbourhood; and the spring, which in winter was much hotter than in
+summer (it may have steamed more in the chilly atmosphere) was then
+much used by the colonists as a bath.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span> By noon we had reached the
+island. Some natives, who met us on the way, had, doubtless to the
+neglect of their daily labour, preferred following us.</p>
+
+<p>The island, like the rest of Greenland, is entirely barren and
+desolate, rather flat towards the north-east, but rising in a hilly
+chain to the south-west. Nowhere could we discover any trace of a
+building. One would scarcely fancy that a monastery, according to our
+notions, could in the course of time so utterly and entirely disappear
+from the face of the earth. Only the supposition that the ancient
+Northmen erected their buildings similarly to the missionaries of the
+present day, of wood, and that when deserted by the inhabitants the
+natives broke them up when necessary and carried them elsewhere, could,
+give the statement of the Northman chronicler any semblance of truth.</p>
+
+<p>The warm spring is, however, there. On the western strand, scarce a
+gunshot from the shore, is a shallow basin twenty feet in diameter and
+three feet deep, covered with fine granitic sand. The water issues
+from the ground in three places, emitting, at the same time, an
+odourless gas. The temperature of the spring, according to my spirit
+bulb thermometer, was 93° 87′ Fahr. About twenty paces westward, and
+somewhat higher, lies a second smaller spring, which is deeper and full
+of stones. The whole surface is covered thickly with a slimy, yellowish
+brown deposit, evidently of vegetable origin. The temperature of this
+spring I found to be 102° 87′ Fahr. The water had a slightly alkaline
+taste, and left a white precipitate. The higher temperature of the
+soil, caused by the springs, is shown by the fresh vegetation which
+in a small circle surrounds both basins, forming a pleasant contrast
+to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> dead aspect of the other part. The green land is a spot
+which reminds us of our native meadows. Watercresses, orchids, wild
+buttercups, and other meadow flowers showed their gay heads, and on the
+edges of the spring basin grew a species of reed which reminded us of
+our pond-reed at home.</p>
+
+<p>At the present day the spring is but little used as a bath. The
+natives, of course, never think of giving their persons the benefit
+of a bath, and the missionaries seldom visit this outlying island.
+Besides, the draught of cold air towards the basin deprives one of
+all pleasure in bathing. After supplying myself with a sample of the
+water and some pieces of rock, which to the natives seemed a strange
+proceeding, we left the island, to make another visit to Unartok to
+see the so-called “soft-stone” rock mineral. This stone (veegsteen)
+is a species of talc, of great importance in a Greenland household,
+and formerly still more so. Before pottery was known, “soft-stone” was
+the only material out of which they carved their household vessels;
+and even now, although Danish ore provides iron and copper utensils,
+they make pans and saucepans from it. Above all, it is necessary
+for the construction of their lamps. This lamp is a crescent-shaped
+stone, hollowed out and fastened to a low three-legged wooden stand.
+The shallow depth is filled with train oil, which is furnished in the
+following manner:—the person who prepares the lamp takes a piece of
+seal blubber in his mouth, and with wonderful dexterity sucks out all
+the oil, and squirts it into the lamp. Then some dry moss is strewn
+over as a wick, and pressed tight to the concave edge and lighted.
+This lamp, which gives both light and heat (for they even<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> prepare
+their meals by it) is, of course, to be found in every house, and is
+(so to speak) the symbol of Greenland family-life, for all gather
+round it. Weights for angling are also cut out of “soft-stone,” and
+it is interesting to know that the Northmen made similar use of this
+material. The stone, however, is not common; somewhat plentiful in
+North Greenland, it is seldom met with in the southern districts, and
+is often brought from the north. East Greenland is not quite wanting
+in it, as the name of an island under the Kolbergerheide Glacier
+proves; it is called Okusiksak, which in the Greenland tongue means
+“soft-stone.”</p>
+
+<p>This Fjord, not so deep as its neighbours, is surrounded by a beautiful
+panorama. At its end opens a ravine which allows a wide prospect. By
+keeping a straight course along this narrow valley one could reach
+Friedrichsthal, but from the necessity of climbing over numerous fallen
+rocks and other difficulties, the way by water is preferred.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely had our boat entered the Fjord than the apparently desert
+shore became alive. Inhabitants of Lichtenau and Igdlopait were here,
+stationed on the herring fishery; and as just at that time there were
+none to catch, the whole community were idling in their accustomed
+manner. Our arrival brought them to their feet, and soon they were at
+the shore calling and screaming against one another, and first one
+and then another wanting to show us a good landing-place. It was with
+much trouble that we could keep them from the boat, as they wished to
+drag it, with us in it, along the stony rugged strand. Of course all
+of them followed us on our way to the “soft-stone” rock, except a few
+old crones, who, being no longer able to walk over the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span> rough ground,
+set themselves to prepare a dainty meal of herrings for us. At the
+“soft-stone” rock itself there was little to be seen, for the natives
+had long since so cut away the block that it scarcely rose above the
+ground; and so we thought it better to travel onwards without waiting
+for the dainty meal prepared for us by the old women, who, however,
+were not at all offended, but eat it themselves. Not so easy was
+it to leave the Fjord as to enter it. The Isersarnak blew strongly
+against us, and it took many strokes of the oars and much time ere we
+saw Igdlopait. We decided to spend the whole of the next day on the
+island, and enjoy once more the hospitality of Mrs. Hilbig. Amongst
+other things, Mrs. Hilbig set before us at the evening meal a dish
+peculiar to Greenland: young shoots of the Angelica steeped in vinegar
+and sugar. This piquant aromatic food, which would do honour to any
+great table, had our full appreciation, and the good beer no less,
+which awaited us once more on this desert rocky island. Our amiable
+hostess rejoiced in our blessed hunger and thirst; but the times
+of Friedrichsthal were happily over, so without being brought into
+difficulties by too great a hunger, we sought our nightly couch, which
+we prepared by placing side by side the forms in the church.</p>
+
+<p>Of Igdlopait and its hospitable mission-house, however, we were to see
+no more. As we were at breakfast the following morning, a Kajak post
+arrived from Lichtenau. We were to go thither immediately. A message
+had arrived from Julianeshaab that the Constance was waiting for us,
+and would take us all! What could now tempt us to remain a moment?
+We departed at once. Filled with thankfulness, we bade good-bye to
+our kind<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span> hostess, who participated in our joy. With tearful eyes
+she sent her greetings to those at home, whither her heart so often
+turned from this desert strand. Returned to Lichtenau, our people
+were in an excited state of mind. The news forwarded to Igdlopait had
+been overtaken by a fresh message from Julianeshaab, by which Captain
+Bang informed us that, being detained by the ice, he had only reached
+Pardleet, an island near Julianeshaab, where he at first thought
+of waiting for us, but had now gone on to Julianeshaab to take in
+provisions, and by unloading some oil make room for us. What kissing
+and rejoicing there was amongst us, as the glad tidings spread that now
+we should soon have started on our homeward journey. Whilst our good
+hostess was busy preparing a plentiful meal in the kitchen, Mr. Warmow
+was looking after provisions for the boat; and that we might never
+forget our stay in Lichtenau, there was placed before us quite a number
+of beautiful little souvenirs, to remind us of our kind entertainers.
+We returned these kindnesses as well as we could; and as, when once
+having reached Julianeshaab and the Constance we no longer needed our
+boats, we gave one to the missionaries of Lichtenau. Several of the
+musical-boxes, too, which, in spite of many hard knocks, were still
+sound, we divided among the missionaries; and those of our weapons,
+too, which we did not want, we left to our kind, hospitable friends.</p>
+
+<p>It was high noon when we took leave of our hosts. Again the whole
+population were on the strand: the men did not cease firing their guns,
+and others sat in their canoes ready to give us their escort. Amidst
+hurrahs and farewell greetings, the travellers began their journey.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span>
+Once more we were to be terrified by the malice of an iceberg. Before
+the harbour of Lichtenau lay some small, malicious, jagged bergs.
+Some were so weak that the natives’ shooting put them in danger of
+demolition, but one in its last moments would fain commit a crime,
+which, fortunately for us, did not succeed. Ourselves in the whale-boat
+had just passed it; the small boat, with the native crew and Mr.
+Hildebrandt, was following us; the large one was farther behind, when
+the berg burst, falling with a rustling and cracking over the craft
+beneath. It did not, however, touch it, but the masses of ice fell
+close to it in the water, which rose in huge waves, hurling the boat
+far away. For one moment we looked with horror at the spectacle; but
+our horror changed at once to joy, as we saw the little craft dancing
+on the water, and the natives, wet as poodle dogs from the spurting of
+the water, spitting, and spluttering, and drying their faces, which for
+a long time had never been free from dirt.</p>
+
+<p>In a short time Lichtenau had for ever disappeared from our sight. At
+the entrance of the Fjord is a small outlying town, Südpröven. Here we
+rested a moment to greet the merchant and his wife once more. Here our
+convoy took leave of us, and the three boats made the last portion of
+the road to the colony alone. In the evening we reached the Island of
+Karsok. The natives, who at first hid themselves, came forward when
+they saw Mr. Warmow, and received bread and meat with delight. They
+lived high above the strand on a cliff, the house rather large and in
+good order. Our people, who followed them into it, were immediately
+regaled with coffee, which they praised.</p>
+
+<p>Through channels and straits, between a labyrinth of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span> islands, we
+continued our journey. This night (it was the 21st to the 22nd) it was
+scarcely dark at midnight; but the fog, which in the evening had lain
+around the tops of the mountains, grew thicker and thicker, and towards
+morning fell in a soft rain. After midnight we passed the Island of
+Omarsuk and a great heart-shaped mountain, which the Greenlanders on
+that account call the Mountain of the World, and neared the district
+of Julianeshaab. Towards five in the morning we reached the entrance
+of the Fjord. Here on a cliff we took a little rest. The heavy work
+on this long boat journey, on which we could not once use the sail,
+had told greatly upon our men, and added to that was the damp, cold
+weather, from which we were quite unprotected. But the hot strong
+coffee, which soon ran into the mugs from the faithful old kettle, and
+a good portion of bread and meat, helped us considerably. Actively
+we went on. Soon we were between the islands which stretch before
+the colony, the largest of which, right in front of Julianeshaab,
+is called Storö. Two hours more, and the end of our last journey in
+Greenland—Julianeshaab—was reached.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.<br>
+<span class="subhed">IN JULIANESHAAB. EXCURSION TO IGALLIKO.<a id="FNanchor_36" href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[35]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Julianeshaab.—Unfriendly behaviour of the Governor of
+the Colony.—Missionary Dräxler.—Shelter on board the
+Constance.—Visit to Dr. Gundlack.—Greenland leather-work.—A
+ball.—Excursion up the Igalliko-Fjord.—Northman ruins.—The
+Egede family in Igalliko.—Peculiar customs.—Inspection
+of the plan of the Northman buildings.—Geological
+observations.—Return.—Pastor Anton.—Lake near
+Julianeshaab.—On the Storefjeld.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Julianeshaab is situated in 60° 43′ N.L. and 46° 1′ W.L. (Greenwich);
+a group of islands, some of larger, some of smaller circumference,
+lies in front of the real continent. The colony lies in a small
+Fjord, and you are only aware of its existence when you are near to
+it. Julianeshaab is the most southerly Danish colony, as well as the
+most southerly point which can be reached by large vessels. The small
+outlying towns—Nennortalik, South and East Pröven, and so on—are only
+visited by small coasting vessels. Founded about the end of the last
+century, Julianeshaab first rose in the present one to be a colony.
+From the term <i>colony</i>, in regard to Julianeshaab, one must not
+form too great expectations. On either bank of a stream, the outlet of
+a lake which lies half an English mile inland, the settlement is built
+along the harbour on the slope of a mountain. The centre is occupied
+by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span> residence of the superintendent of the colony, which is close
+to the harbour; next to that lives the doctor; on the other side of
+the stream stands what, for Greenland, is a stately church, and the
+dwelling of the preacher. The house of the clerks of the colony, some
+stores, and a small house for strangers, are the only buildings built
+in the European style; they are all painted black, but look quite
+neat with their white window-frames. The remaining houses, inhabited
+by the natives, are partly the old turf huts, and partly a mixture
+of Greenland and European, as indeed the inhabitants are, too, being
+mostly half-breeds. These huts have a slanting plank roof; their
+interior fittings and their whole appearance are Greenlandish: even
+the dung-heaps are not wanting, though there are exceptions. A high,
+round-topped mountain, the Starefjeld, overtops the whole, whilst the
+lower highland (the Harefjeld) juts out as a cape into the sea. The
+harbour is large and roomy. It is, as a rule, only visited by one ship
+in a year.</p>
+
+<p>Long before we had rounded the Harefjeld cliffs we had looked eagerly
+for the longed-for journey’s end. At last, as we rounded the last
+of them, the colony lay close before us, with the trim brig, the
+Constance. Our boat’s flag was of course hoisted, and it was not long
+before the Danish colours fluttered from the Constance. Our first
+visit was to the vessel on whose hospitable deck we were to begin
+our homeward journey. A happy feeling came over us as, after so long
+a time, we once more felt the planks of a good ship under our feet.
+We were received most heartily on board, and the seamen showed much
+interest in our sad story.</p>
+
+<p>After having stowed our luggage on and between decks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span> the question
+rose where should we stow ourselves? The captain, officers, and Dr.
+Buchholz found shelter in the cabin, but the men had still to be cared
+for, as the room for their reception was not yet prepared. We hoped to
+find a sheltering roof for them in the colony in the meantime; that was
+really necessary, as it still rained fast. And now we would at once pay
+a visit to the governor.</p>
+
+<p>He received us with cold ceremony, seemed to think it unnecessary to
+offer us a seat, and allowed himself very unwillingly to be drawn into
+conversation. This conversation gave us more the idea of an examination
+than a conference. To our narrative the governor replied, now and
+then, by a short but very decided, “That I do not think.” The question
+then followed as to whether we had enough provisions for the homeward
+journey. Upon the captain’s answer, that in that respect we must trust
+to the goodness of our hospitable friends, and that we hoped to supply
+ourselves with much that was necessary in the colony, his worship
+merely answered, “If you have good Danish thalers in your pocket, you
+can buy all you want of me.” For manners’ sake, and as there were other
+guests present, we were offered a glass of wine. At length we asked
+about a lodging for our comrades who were out in the rain. Upon this
+point, too, the answer was rough and short, “For them I have no room;
+they must stay in the boats, or raise a tent and stay there.” Upon our
+remarking that in rainy weather a stay in the boats was not exactly the
+thing, his worship said, half-sneeringly, “If you really have borne so
+much, a little rain will not kill you.” With this answer we left.<a id="FNanchor_37" href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[36]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span></p>
+
+<p>In Julianeshaab we had unexpectedly met a countryman and his family,
+Mr. Dräxler, who had been acting as missionary at Lichtenau, and was
+now going to Friedrichsthal to free our friend Starick, who was to go
+to Lichtenfels. According to the custom of Greenland, he travelled
+with two “Women’s” boats. His people he had housed under a tent, but
+a traveller has to obtain a lodging on shore. To him we complained of
+the wants of our men, and he at once offered to take them into his own
+tent. Brave Captain Bang then came to the rescue. He learnt our trouble
+and gave his advice. The schoolmaster was fetched, the schoolroom
+opened, the forms removed, and our men were placed at once under dry
+shelter.</p>
+
+<p>Somewhat less imposing did the governor of the colony look, when later
+we saw him in his shop taking small coin from the natives for sugar and
+coffee. After seeking the doctor of the colony, who received us very
+kindly, on behalf of our sick comrade, we returned on board to arrange
+our things more comfortably.</p>
+
+<p>The room was scanty enough; and as only two berths were provided in the
+cabin, and one we wanted for the sick man, the pilots preferred, as
+they would not go with the men, to make their lodging in the hold.</p>
+
+<p>We now, for the first time, experienced the disagreeableness of a
+Greenland summer; for when it did not rain, the dreadful swarm of gnats
+destroyed all peace in the open air. We visited our countrymen in the
+colony, and our men made acquaintance with the natives. The shyness
+of the people, who yesterday were gaping in crowds<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> at the strangers,
+had vanished; and they seemed, on the contrary, to take much pleasure
+in the intercourse with our people. We, too, were introduced to the
+society of Julianeshaab. Dr. Gundlack invited us to coffee. Our kind
+host, who during the day had trudged about in heavy wooden shoes and
+long fur-lined coat, with a long pipe and a broad flop-hat, through
+the colony to his patients, or visiting friends, seemed not at all
+put out at our primitive dress. There we sat in a motley row, with
+three European ladies (a very silent elderly one and two young ones),
+and kept up a conversation. That same day Captain Hegemann signed the
+passage-contract with the Danish official, and now there seemed no
+obstacle in the way of our homeward journey.</p>
+
+<p>But the weather would not change. An ashy grey fog enveloped the
+mountains, and the rain poured down without intermission. We had,
+therefore, nothing to do but to get rid of the time. The German
+missionaries were still there, and with them we passed some pleasant
+hours. But the next day separated us. The weather improved, and our
+friend hastened to his destination. The small fleet, with men, women,
+and children, and all the baggage, pulled up by the Constance once
+more, and our dear countrymen parted from us, sending many greetings to
+those at home. We much wanted to take some Greenland products home with
+us. The people in Julianeshaab were much more accessible to trading
+than the southern settlers, and also we had more time and opportunity
+to get acquainted with them; so we soon found a woman, who, for a
+certain sum, was ready to sew us some shoes. The dwelling of this woman
+and her daughter differed advantageously from the surrounding Greenland
+houses.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span> The sitting-room, which was japanned with white varnish, was
+kept very clean, and ornamented with pictures, and the never-failing
+looking-glass; the window-panes were transparent, which is a great
+matter in Greenland. The inhabitants, now busied eagerly for us, were
+in their own persons laudable exceptions to the rule. Very elaborate
+is the finishing and ornamenting of shoes with the customary leather
+mosaic in Greenland. With untiring patience the women sew on little
+beads of leather in stripes, with thread made of seals’ sinews. The
+preparation of this thread caused us some merriment. The tail-sinews
+are dried, then cut into filaments. As these filaments are not smooth
+and fit to sew with, they must first be prepared; this is done by the
+sewer rolling the thread quickly under her hand over her cheek shining
+with grease. The price of the work was, of course, not high, and we
+were soon possessors of it. Our people, however, had become much more
+intimate with the natives. In the evening we went again on land. From
+the store resounded dance-music and merriment.</p>
+
+<p>Let the respected reader imagine a low square room, not very large,
+feebly lit by the rays of an oil lamp hanging from the centre. In one
+corner stands an empty oil tub, on which two Greenlanders have taken
+their stand, and are working with great delight at their fiddles.
+The melody and the manner of dancing which it elicits sounds very
+strange. According to the time of this music, the couple whirl round
+each other under the oil lamp. Man and woman crack and stamp with
+their feet, and clap with the hands, at which the lady dancer in an
+opportune moment tickles her partner under the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span> nose with a tuft of
+hair. The couple now form chains and circles. After a short rest the
+dance begins again. Over the scene hangs a thick cloud of dust and
+smoke from the oil lamp, which only allows one to see the outlines
+of the native youths leaning against the walls. For the amusement of
+the guests, they gave themselves up to the pleasures of the dance.
+Our men disported themselves bravely, and the Greenlanders showed
+themselves agile dancers. Pleasure shone in their eyes, and one
+could plainly see that, on the other side of the Arctic circle, the
+young folk dance as passionately as on this. Many of the ladies had
+dressed for the occasion; but others, relying on their native charms,
+ventured contentedly into the ball-room in their everyday dress. The
+winding up of the festival consisted in a general coffee-drinking
+in a neighbouring house. Such dancing entertainments were of course
+repeated, and one was so noisy as to disturb the governor of the
+colony, who lived close by, from his slumbers. Driven from the store,
+the company withdrew to the Harefjeld, where, upon a somewhat swampy
+meadow, they kept it up till early morning.</p>
+
+<p>This fondness for dancing is moreover peculiar to the full-blooded
+Greenlander, but the strict customs of the Moravian fraternity do not
+permit this amusement, and the missionaries have, therefore, declaimed
+against it. In the southern mission stations, where the intercourse of
+the community of the Moravian mission is less brisk, this is easily
+prevented. In the north, however, it is more difficult; in Gotthaab,
+for instance, where the inhabitants rejoice in unbridled dissoluteness.
+The neighbouring relatives come, too, to join in the revels.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span> Two
+kinds of dances are customary in Greenland. The one is a social dance,
+resembling French quadrilles. Here, too, circles are made and groups
+formed. The step is peculiar. The foot is dragged and stamped according
+to the rhythm, and then again quickly brought up in time. The other is
+danced by two persons, and reminds me of the Hungarian “csardas.” It
+is an ever seizing and escaping, a quick twisting, now together, now
+separately. Both dances are pretty, and show the goodnatured, as well
+as the wild expression of the national character perfectly. Moreover,
+the Greenlander dances the customary European dances quite as well
+as we do. The national dance-music does not enrich its treasures by
+teaching; a sailor learned in the accordion brings this instrument with
+its new tunes over the sea, and the musically gifted Greenlander soon
+fiddles it after him. The Greenlanders’ treasures of melody have now
+been enriched with some German tunes by our men.</p>
+
+<p>By degrees, our stay in the colony grew very wearisome. In vain we
+waited for a fair wind to run us out of the harbour. At last, after
+long rain, fine weather set in. But in the meantime, as the Constance
+could not run out, the fine days must be turned to account, and I found
+an opportunity for an excursion to the Fjord of Igalliko.</p>
+
+<p>On the boat voyage from Friedrichsthal to Julianeshaab, I had
+everywhere sought for traces of the ancient Norse buildings, which,
+according to the chart of the Archæological Society of Copenhagen,
+were to be found in many places; but, except the small remains of
+Härjulfsnäs, the Igikait of the Greenlander of the present day, had not
+yet seen any. The district of Julianeshaab,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span> however, was rich in them.
+In all probability, the deep Fjord in the neighbourhood of this colony,
+had been, in the time of the Northman settlers, thickly peopled. In
+Julianeshaab itself, the Danish officials could tell us a good deal;
+for they pride themselves much on these monuments of their ancestors,
+and repeatedly offered to show us the ruins of the Church of Kakorlok
+near Kakorlok Fjord, though in the meantime they did not at all help
+us to profit by their invitation. We had, therefore, to ask for a boat
+and provisions. From the moment we went on board the Constance, we had
+given up all claim to our own, the possession of which had in reality
+gone over to the Danes. It was very hard for us to ask our hosts
+for anything they did not offer, and thus the Norse ruins remained
+unvisited. From the Harefjeld, however, I examined them with the
+telescope, and eventually I had an opportunity of making acquaintance
+with this ancient monument.</p>
+
+<p>A store of fresh meat is not easily obtained in Greenland; and some we
+wanted for the voyage. In the Igalliko Fjord, on the very spot where
+Erick Rauda’s (the first Northman settler’s) house is said to have
+stood, there now lived a Greenland family, which—the only one in the
+country—bred cattle. There, according to Captain Bang’s opinion, we
+might hope to get some meat.</p>
+
+<p>A boat journey must, therefore, be made to it. The Danish sailors had
+very little desire to pull a good forty miles to Igalliko; our people
+on the contrary were ready enough to take to their oars for another day
+or two; so the crew was soon fixed upon, and I accompanied the party.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span></p>
+
+<p>The weather was lovely; merrily the boat flew over the smooth surface
+of the water; soon we were out of the Julianeshaab Fjord, and sailing
+between the island and the continent. A deep sea bay, overlooked by
+gloomy mountains, opened to our left. This was the Kakorlok Fjord,
+on the inner coast of which lay the ruins of a Northman house, known
+by the name of the Cathedral of Kakorlok. Straight across the Fjord,
+and round Storö, did the road to Igalliko take us. The Fjord itself
+from its entrance to its end is thirty-two miles long. The overhanging
+rocks to the left as you sail inwards are very steep. Along the whole
+length, from beginning to end, there is scarcely a place to be found
+fit to haul the boat in; and in many places it is utterly impossible,
+owing to the steepness of the rocks. The rocky masses which encircle
+the Fjord on this side belong to the mountain chain of Redekam, which
+runs between the two great Fjords north and south from Julianeshaab up
+into the land. The opposite bank is in many places flatter, the ground
+rises more gradually, and between the distant lying rocks shines here
+and there the inland ice. The landscape here is decidedly much more
+pleasing. About the middle the Fjord sends out a short southerly arm.
+There once settled the Northmen, and the place was called Gammelgard;
+at this day the Greenlander calls the ruined town Kaksiarsuk.</p>
+
+<p>On the road hither, one naturally asks oneself how is it possible to
+breed cattle here? At the time when the ancient settlers were here,
+it might have worn a somewhat more habitable aspect; but to-day the
+eye sees nothing but the Greenland stereotyped plots of moss, with
+a few willow bushes and bare masses of rocks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span> in whose rifts the
+dear sun has enticed a flower out here and there. As to the view, the
+neighbourhood is beautiful; but a fruitful appearance it certainly has
+not. Indeed, provender must be some days’ journey from this spot, and
+fetched with much trouble; for the places overgrown with sweet grass
+are sparse and very far apart; and only when quite within the Fjord
+can one understand how cattle, at all events Greenland cattle, that is
+animals not pampered with fodder, can be reared.</p>
+
+<p>Here another kind of landscape spreads before us. The high overhanging
+downs open out by degrees into a smooth table-land, shut in by a
+rampart of red rocky wall, opening in one spot by a pass to the
+neighbouring Fjord. This is covered with vegetation; though not the
+usual velvety green mat of moss, but the real juicy fresh-coloured
+domestic meadow. Here it is, indeed, more habitable; but here, too,
+the traveller misses, as he does everywhere in Greenland, tree and
+shrub. Further inland there is a continuation of willow bushes about
+the height of a man. On the meadow-land one sees from far stones of
+large extent laid in long rows; this is the first trace of man’s energy
+having once ruled here.</p>
+
+<p>Before this, the journey had become laborious; not to me indeed, for
+I sat near the steersman, and had nothing to do but to smoke my pipe,
+survey the neighbourhood, now and then let loose a rope, and help
+bravely with the meals. But from the entrance into the Fjord, the wind
+had dropped; our poor fellows had, therefore, to work hard. It was late
+in the night, when we at length found ourselves under the low cliffs of
+Igalliko. Twilight was scarcely worth mentioning. The air was agreeably
+mild.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> With united efforts we hauled the boat up on to the strand; and
+while the men were busy unloading the craft, I went with the steersman
+to wake the inhabitants of Igalliko, who in spite of our shouts had as
+yet taken no notice of our arrival.</p>
+
+<p>The honest Greenland cattle-breeder had spread his store of
+Angmaksätten and Owak (<i>Gadus ovac</i>, Rhd.) on the grass and
+cliffs, and the drying fish emitted a pestilential odour, which
+fortunately later on dispersed a little. From a low rocky pinnacle we
+could overlook the whole settlement. The houses were larger than those
+usually erected by the natives, and strikingly better built. From the
+distance the building materials looked like brick, or artificially-hewn
+stone.</p>
+
+<p>We passed over a hillock, and came to the flat top of a rock, which
+seemed to be surrounded by a number of regular blocks. Close by,
+however, they seemed to possess more and more order; and the first
+Norse remains lay before us. The ancient builders had, in the erection
+of this house, made use of the steep rock as a wall. The building
+materials were huge blocks of stone. To all appearances it was rather
+a low building. The rocky wall was about six feet and a half high,
+one foot broad, and deeply hollowed out, which plainly had the effect
+of limiting the upper part of the room; and it seemed to me from this
+simple grooving, that the closing up was performed by large stone
+slabs, which, later on, I saw applied to other buildings, of which the
+neighbourhood of Igalliko has many.</p>
+
+<p>At last we reached the house. There, in spite of all shouting, the
+inhabitants gave no sign of life, so there remained nothing for it
+but to knock them up. From<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> the mildness of the air, it did not seem
+strange that the cattle were out all night.</p>
+
+<p>The present inhabitants of Igalliko were not originally Greenlanders;
+they are rather European, and wandered into Greenland scarcely a
+hundred years ago. The family ancestor was called Olsen; he was the
+first merchant in Julianeshaab. His descendants have dropped the name
+of Olsen, and taken that of the beloved Greenland apostle, Egede. This
+family is a striking example how by degrees a tribe settling here may
+become naturalized into natives. Except the features, I could discover
+nothing in the inhabitants of Igalliko which now remained to them from
+their European ancestors. Language, customs, and manner of living, all
+have they taken from the Greenlanders. We now entered the house of
+young Sörn Egede. After going happily round the dung-heaps, and several
+muddy puddles, we reached the utricular building, in which the door
+of the dwelling-room was found. No movement was to be heard in the
+half-darkened room. Only when the steersman called, did Sörn spring
+from the wooden bed common to all, in a highly primitive toilette. He
+forthwith recognized the visitors. But now the skin coverlet of the
+bedstead became alive underneath. Children’s voices in every different
+tone were heard; and from the dark mass soon peeped out here and there
+a head. Near Sörn, his wife Annie had rested, who now, anything but put
+out by nature’s costume in which she was, viewed us attentively, and in
+spite of the prevailing darkness, read the letter which the steersman
+had brought. She then turned gracefully round and suckled her youngest
+child. At the sight of the dirty figures, maids, and shepherdboys,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span> who
+now appeared from under the fur covering, it dawned upon me that we had
+better sleep somewhere else. So after waking Sörn’s family, we went
+into the next building, where Sörn’s father, Paul Egede, lived with
+his wife and his youngest son, who was also married. Paul Egede was a
+feeble, grey-headed old man, in whom the flame of life barely seemed to
+flicker. His brown wife, nevertheless, seemed to have a good quantity
+of Greenland blood in her veins; she was younger than he, and quite
+active. Paul Egede was luxuriously clad in a shirt. Madame found this
+superfluous while sleeping. Awakened from slumber, she at first seemed
+to think of putting on such an article of clothing; soon, however, she
+relinquished the idea, and stared at us vacantly.</p>
+
+<p>Old Paul spoke Danish. We greeted him, and went back to the boats with
+his sons, which we finally hauled on land. We met, too, with some
+preparations for our stay.</p>
+
+<p>Sörn’s dwelling was, according to Greenlandish ideas, very roomy, and
+betrayed the certain well-to-do position of the owner. Gold-framed
+looking-glasses and large lithographs of English origin decorated
+the walls, even a “Dutch” clock was not wanting. The greater part of
+the room was taken up by the one common bedstead. Sörn himself was a
+robust young man with the typical Danish face, tolerably clean; his
+wife Annie, a blonde, had once been a pretty girl, but now that she
+had been married a little while, she seemed to us somewhat faded, and
+not free from the vice of uncleanness peculiar to all Greenland women.
+I say purposely <i>women</i>, for though I do not mean to assert that
+the Greenland girls are so thoroughly clean that they wash themselves
+at least once a day, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span> that even amongst the grown up daughters of
+the land one does not see many unclean faces, still the young girls
+are not wanting in a certain innate desire to please, which can even
+rise to vanity and love of finery. After marriage, however, this all
+vanishes; then the Greenland women take but little care of their
+outward appearance, particularly when a family comes on. Exceptions
+are not often met with. Annie brought us some tea which we had given
+her to make, and china cups to drink out of, which were decorated with
+gold rims and gaudy flowers. Our friendly hosts looked at us quite
+delighted, and Sörn and Annie felt much honoured and very happy, when
+we handed back a rye loaf with butter. The others, too, had some bread,
+but dry. The remainder of the tea, and some candied sugar, we also
+presented to the Greenland company, who immediately made the most of
+the strange drink, and gulped it down speedily.</p>
+
+<p>For our sleeping apartment we chose the fodder-house. The Egedes at
+once conducted us there. The small building served as a store-room
+for all sorts of things, and greatly needed air. They offered us
+some milk in a washing-basin, but we preferred drinking it out of an
+unsuspicious-looking stone dish. Meanwhile, a window had been made in
+the room; that is, Sörn had simply pushed out a stone in the wall, and
+through the opening now flew all superfluous objects; a calf’s head,
+old shoes, dried fish, calves’ entrails, and divers other things in no
+way belonging to each other. At last the atmosphere became endurable;
+fresh hay was spread, and we lay down on our sacks to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning we had undisputed proof of the twofold use of the
+dish, which had at first been offered us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span> as a washing-basin; it now
+appeared full of coffee and milk. Sörn’s kindly invitation to help
+ourselves, we were still less able to accept from the fact that the
+children took an innocent pleasure in dipping their cups in the dish,
+by which proceeding their unwashed arms dived up to the elbow in the
+milk.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p2350_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p2350_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">RUINS OF ERICK RAUDA’S HOUSE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Sörn, the steersman, the cook, and some of our men then went to kill
+the oxen, and I turned towards the ruins.</p>
+
+<p>On the spot where Igalliko now stands, the oldest Norse settlement once
+stood—Brattelid, Erick Rauda’s, the first emigrant’s, house, when
+Igalliko Fjord was known as Eimar Fjord, and the arm of the sea to the
+northern end of Julianeshaab, which is not far distant overland from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span>
+Brattelid, was called Erik Fjord. What degree of value this statement
+deserves, Archæologists must determine. Norse ruins exist, and to a
+rather large extent. Next appears a large room, forming a square on
+one side enclosed by a re-entering angle, with huge stones. The blocks
+lie close together and are not joined with mortar. In former times,
+doubtless, there were more rows lying one on the other; now there is
+but one; though the stones lying around may have fallen down. In the
+re-entering angle of this court lie the ruins of a house, which, if
+a dwelling-house, indicates but small dimensions. I will here give a
+hasty sketch. The extent of space enclosed by walls was from about
+twenty-six to thirty feet long, and ten paces broad. Here, too, the
+walls were made of low blocks of stone, and, exactly like the Cyclopean
+walls of the south of Europe, not set in mortar. None of the blocks
+were hewn; the hewn portion of the stone formed the smooth side. The
+holes were filled up with small stones. In that part of the building
+facing the south were two entrances. This, too, reminded one of
+those ancient buildings; for the sides of the door, built of stones,
+inclined inwards towards the top, and were closed by giant stone-slabs
+laid over them, and therefore exactly resembled the entrances in the
+Cyclopean walls of Greece. Both doors were in full preservation. One
+room was transformed by the Egedes into a store-house, the door of
+the other was open. They were at the utmost six feet high; a big man,
+so it seemed, could not have gone through the doorway upright. On the
+stone slab which covered the door lay some earth; grass grew upon it,
+and as this layer of earth was pretty thick, and as, according to all
+circumstances in Greenland, this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span> can arise neither from the course of
+time, vegetation, or decay, we may assume that this is the remainder of
+the old roof, and that the builder, like his descendants in Iceland,
+covered his house with sods. The space in the enclosure of the stone
+circle is covered with pieces of rock. If time has not set its teeth
+quite in vain upon the old walls, the population of Greenland have at
+all events done their best to destroy them; for all the stones, with
+which the inhabitants of Igalliko build their houses in the present
+day, have been hewn by Northman hands so beautifully even, that they
+make splendid building materials. A Greenlander would not give himself
+such trouble, but takes it from the Norse buildings, only allowing
+those to remain which require great strength to move.</p>
+
+<p>Some hundred steps off lie the ruins of another seemingly smaller
+building, unenclosed. Still further on, a plain stone wall is to be
+seen. On the grass, too, towards the end of the Fjord, lay heaped-up
+masses of stone, which apparently can only have been the work of human
+hands. On a small low island, too, in the Fjord, facing the harbour,
+the foundations of some Norse buildings exist. Perhaps these were used
+partly as dwellings for the servants, partly for magazines; that on the
+island was possibly a place of refuge in time of threatened danger.
+The ancient settlers had their building materials very near at hand.
+Immediately behind Igalliko, which itself stands upon a steep slope
+rising from the sea, is a terrace-shaped row of red rocks. This stone,
+which has many perpendicular clefts, and forms as steep declivities,
+is a red sedimentary kind of sandstone which in its under strata is
+harder, has more quartz in it, and is lighter;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span> but towards the surface
+is unequal, and in its red masses contains white flint stones. This
+stone splits easily in its strata into slabs, and was therefore very
+serviceable in building, such as I have never met with in any other
+part of Greenland. Very interesting to me was one other appearance
+which I noticed on that sandstone rock. Even from below, at a height
+of about 300 feet above the sea, a heap of débris had struck me from
+its peculiar appearance. At first I fancied it was artificially built,
+and strewn with stones. Upon closer investigation, however, it seemed
+that this débris must have floated there. The loose blocks of stone
+had been broken off by the tide, and lay in such masses that it would
+have been impossible for the hand of man to have brought them there.
+From above, I noticed on the shore a very low spot, where things were
+rolled up on a lower terrace in the same way. It is not easy to imagine
+that storm-floods, however high, could roll such masses over the ground
+and carry them up here. Rather would the assumption of an ancient
+coast-line be justified, and that the inner part of the Igalliko Fjord
+had later on been raised, certainly at a time when Norse settlements
+were unknown. I was sorry that I had not the leisure to investigate
+this phenomenon, as well as the surrounding neighbourhood. Scarcely
+had I finished some hasty sketches, when our people were ready for
+departure. With my sleeping-sack across my shoulder, I said good-bye to
+Sörn, his Annie, and the whole household.</p>
+
+<p>On our return journey we enjoyed the most lovely weather: at noon we
+rested on a cliff, where we found willow-bushes enough to boil the
+kettle. Unwashed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> and unmolested, however, we were not to return home.
+As we were half-way in the Fjord the sky clouded over, and it began
+to rain, and also the boat very decidedly to rock; and the idea of
+stopping at some place on the bank, roofless and unprotected, having
+to wait for better weather, was seriously entertained. But it cleared
+again; and, after a fourteen hours’ journey, we pulled up alongside the
+Constance. We found her in the harbour quite blocked up with ice, which
+had come in with the current, being a bad omen for our speedy release.</p>
+
+<p>The day after my return from Igalliko Fjord, I had an opportunity of
+making the acquaintance of a very amiable man. He was, too, the only
+Dane who of his own accord offered us help and support, Pastor Anton.
+He had just returned to Julianashaab from an official circuit. As this
+included every Danish settlement in South Greenland to Cape Farewell,
+and northwards to Cape Kaksimiut, it could not be effected under some
+weeks. In the smaller settlements of Greenland there is now a certain
+degree of order and management in the matter of religious worship. A
+catechist, a native, who has received his education at the seminary
+at Gotthaab, looks after the native school and devotional services:
+Europeans generally attend to their own families. At the best part of
+the year the pastor arrives; and during his stay children are baptized,
+weddings blessed, the Holy Communion administered, the grown up youth
+are prepared for confirmation, and admitted in the religious community;
+graves, too, are not forgotten by this shepherd of souls. All outlying
+places are visited, and then he returns to his own station. The return
+journey in the hide-boat, often in unfavourable weather,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span> is difficult
+enough. Pastor Anton had greeted all belonging to us on board heartily,
+as already said, and most kindly offered his help in any way that
+could be useful. We were to ask him for anything we wanted; he would
+give it willingly. These offers we received with the warmest thanks,
+but we were nevertheless able to decline them, as we were already
+provided with all that was most necessary. He invited us to his house
+for the afternoon, where we passed some hours chatting pleasantly with
+the chief people of Julianeshaab. It was quite a political chat, and
+interested us greatly. The Danish gentlemen could not help showing how
+deeply they still felt the loss of Schleswig and Holstein, and made no
+secret of their hope that France would take upon herself the office
+of avenger. Greatly astonished were they when I informed them that we
+Germans in Austria had long since calmed ourselves with regard to the
+events of 1866, and that no sensible man amongst us would ever dream of
+entering into an alliance with France against Germany. Who thought then
+that the dénouement was so near? that at home things were happening,
+which in a short time would lead to war,—to a war from which Germany
+would, in an unlooked-for manner, come forth united, conqueror, and
+mighty, and France punished, crushed, and humbled!</p>
+
+<p>We sat long with the pastor. It was home-like and comfortable there;
+and in his little study there came over me once more a great longing
+for home. Without raged a violent storm from the south-east; we could
+scarcely stand; though it was clear, and the air, for Greenland,
+particularly warm. The thermometer showed 27° Fahr. This temperature
+lasted the whole night.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span> Towards morning it fell somewhat lower. I
+accompanied Captain Bang in a walk to the Harefjeld, where he wished
+to survey the condition of the ice. The sea seemed quiet, but broad
+stripes of ice lay before us, and above and below the Islands Akkia and
+Storö, the straits were full. That did not look like soon getting away!
+In the evening I was invited alone to the house of the governor of the
+colony. There I met the pastor and the doctor. If my host thought that
+I should reveal myself as a thorough Austrian, he had an opportunity of
+undeceiving himself.</p>
+
+<p>The walk to the lake near Julianeshaab is as pleasant as it is
+instructive. Huge cliffs, from which a foaming torrent after a short
+course falls into the sea, hem it in, towards the colony. In the
+background rise picturesque rocks, reflecting their bald high tops in
+the clear quiet waters. On the banks lie soft moss cushions, in which
+the feet sink up to the ankles. The majestic peace of the far north
+lies over the landscape, and particularly over the sea. How utterly
+different is the character of our own Alpine scenery. “We are strongly
+reminded of that hidden sea basin, which no one seeks, and which
+touches the feet of the glaciers.</p>
+
+<p>The Storefjeld, too, a high mountain of 1200 feet, the highest anywhere
+near the colony, was climbed. To the dome-shaped top we made our way
+over cliffs and through ravines; it was climbing the Alps in miniature;
+one could once more use ones limbs properly, if only the abominable
+Greenland summer plague, the gnats, had not been there. These small
+tormentors followed us at every step; no beating about helped one,
+and no tobacco smoke; they swarmed in the valley as on the heights,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span>
+and the body was covered over and over with them. Even if their sting
+on our hardened bodies did not have quite the same effect as those
+bloodthirsty gnats have upon the tender skin of our ladies at home,
+still this continual worrying was in the highest degree irritating.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the summit of the mountain is extensive and beautiful.
+Over the bald mountain chain, strewn with giant rocks, and its
+neighbours beyond (which remind one of the Brockenfeld of the Hartz),
+the eye strays, until the far distant mountains of the inland with
+their glaciers set the last boundaries. At our feet the lake shimmered
+blue, and on the other side of the island and strait the eye met the
+glistening sea with its icebergs and floes. It was an excursion well
+rewarded; deep in the contemplation of this grand scenery, one could
+even forget the gnats’ stings. The steersmen were not particularly
+edified by the sight of the ice in the sea. Did it mean longer waiting?</p>
+
+<p>The bay of Julianeshaab seemed very rich in fish. A boat sent out
+by the Constance dorse-fishing, returned to the ship after a short
+absence with a rich booty. The fish were split up and salted, and, in
+angling, a dog-fish nine feet long was pulled up. Immediately a whole
+body of natives received the sea-hyæna, brought it to the shore, there
+dissected it, and quite close to the dung-pits before their houses
+buried it, in order, according to their ideas, to improve the taste of
+the meat. For the next day, which was Sunday, another pleasant dance
+was in prospect. The men, too, now wished to be of the party. Sixty
+ladies, after the last ball, had escorted those who were returning on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span>
+board, and the shouting and noise was heard in the lower deck of the
+ship. Still greater enjoyment did this Sunday promise; a “Women’s” boat
+had already arrived from some distance; but it was destined to turn out
+otherwise.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">KAKSIMIUT. FREDERICKSHAAB. RETURN VOYAGE TO EUROPE.<a id="FNanchor_38" href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[37]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Farewell and departure.—Visit to the Island of
+Pardleet.—In Peru harbour.—Hollanderöe.—Festive
+days in Kaksimiut.—Continuation of the
+voyage.—Frederickshaab.—Copenhagen.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The 3rd of July was a fine day; and to my astonishment I heard that
+Captain Bang had decided upon running out. I had still something to
+look after on shore, but it had to be quickly done. Indeed, the captain
+and other gentlemen soon followed to say good-bye to the inhabitants
+of Julianeshaab. Presently the capstan choked with the raising of the
+anchor. Now we were off in earnest. We took leave of the European
+ladies of the colony who came down to the harbour, and nodded farewell
+to the natives. At eleven o’clock the Constance unfurled her sails,
+and glided slowly out of the harbour. The governor of the colony, the
+doctor, and the pastor escorted us. Above, on the cliffs of the shore,
+sat the maidens of Julianeshaab, in company dress, but sad; they nodded
+farewell to us in their Greenland fashion. They had been shamefully
+disappointed of their pleasure. Our sudden departure had struck the
+poor things like a thunderbolt. And as for our men—well, it struck me,
+too, that they would willingly have waited another day;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span> but we had
+entered upon our homeward path, and on the whole, we were all heartily
+glad to be on the road home. Outside in the street, running along the
+harbour, the gentlemen of the colony wished us a prosperous voyage.
+We cruised nearly the whole afternoon, in a complete calm, between
+Akkia and the continent, having the ship in tow. At last, at ten p.m.,
+the outer harbour of Julianeshaab, on the island of Pardleet, about
+one German mile distant, was reached, where, in expectation of more
+favourable weather, we dropped anchor once more.</p>
+
+<p>We had really made a great mistake in becoming so soon tired of
+Julianeshaab; for, in the main, there was life about us there, and
+that was at least a change. What weariness really is we had now to
+learn. Pardleet is a completely desert island. The low rocky masses
+are clothed with scanty vegetation. Whortleberries, the marsh lystus,
+stunted willows, and birch brushwood are not wanting here either: but a
+never-ending loneliness rests upon the island, which is poor in animal
+life, and but seldom visited by birds. In former times, a Greenland
+family lived here; the ruins of their dwelling are still visible. The
+small celandine and grasses thrive upon this spot luxuriantly, and this
+green spot seemed like an oasis in the desert. I and our men roamed
+over the whole island. For want of other amusement, they collected
+mussels,<a id="FNanchor_39" href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> which exist here in clusters in the shallows in shore.
+They had all learned from the natives to eat them raw. We took a number
+of these mussels on board, and when pickled I myself found them very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span>
+palatable. We lay in Pardleet harbour until the following day at noon,
+when we weighed anchor, in order to continue our voyage at least as far
+as Hollanderöe. The Constance, however, could not quit the spot, as the
+wind was contrary, and we were unable to tack owing to the narrowness
+of the straits between the islands. Nothing, therefore, remained but to
+bring out the hawser once more; and that evening, about ten p.m., we
+landed in Peru harbour, on the island of Kingitok.</p>
+
+<p>On the map of West Greenland, a great many harbours are marked along
+the coast, the Aurora harbour, Gray’s, and others. The uninitiated
+imagine, although incorrectly, that these are inhabited by natives.
+Greenland captains are often compelled to stay against their will close
+in shore, owing to calms, or contrary winds, or ice. Then nothing
+remains for them but to have recourse to one of these harbours, where
+they can at least ride in safety and wait for favourable weather.</p>
+
+<p>Peru harbour lies in a narrow strait over against Hollanderöe. As we
+saw no prospect of leaving on the following day, and the weather was
+fine, we undertook an excursion to this island. On the west it slopes
+gently down, but towards the east rises into two lofty cliffs, which
+form a deep ravine, separating them from one another, as well as from
+the remaining part of the island. As we descended into this defile,
+in order to reach the steep top on the other side, the stair-shaped
+bottom of the valley covered with rubbish struck me at once, as well
+as the steep walls, which showed pretty distinct furrows along them.
+This roused the conjecture in my mind, that here had once been a
+glacier, and that we were now completely in its bed. The top of the
+rock afforded a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span> splendid view on every side over the sea, which fora
+long way was covered with ice, which the south-east storm had closely
+crushed together, both towards the north and also towards the rocks
+of the mainland. But the gnats here, too, plagued us frightfully, and
+soon drove us altogether away. From above I could now see that the
+rift in the valley opened into a broad gateway to the sea, confirming
+my former conjecture as to its geological nature. No doubt remained
+in our minds when we reached the upper part of the ravine. There the
+bare rocky masses showed the finest unequivocal naked alpine formation,
+which in no other way could be accounted for but by glacier-ice. These
+observations, which I made also later in a ravine resembling this
+at Kaksimiut and in the neighbourhood of Frederickshaab, raised the
+opinion that there must have been a time when Greenland was much more
+covered with ice than it now is. That this was previous to historical
+times, indeed was most probably coeval with the glacial period of the
+northern hemisphere of the earth, notwithstanding that all visible
+traces have not yet disappeared, can be easily accounted for by the
+slight decay of the rocks, and from the low state of vegetation in the
+country. Moreover, to this very day, it seems to assert its favourable
+position for a glacier; as in one spot, and that in no way high above
+the surface of the sea, lays a huge mass of unmelted snow, which, under
+similar circumstances during our stay in West Greenland, we had not
+noticed.</p>
+
+<p>Peru harbour would not let us depart so soon; we lay there from the
+6th to the 11th of July. Excursions to land were rendered tormentingly
+difficult by the importunate swarms of gnats. A small hunting party,
+at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span> utmost, might venture out in the evening to kill a ptarmigan.
+Besides, the dreary cliffs in their horrible sameness offered little
+or no inducement for excursions. The only change was caused by the
+natives, who knew how to find us even here; exchanging some birds or
+fish for a piece of bread, and then lying half the day near the ship,
+or on it, and sometimes being persuaded to show their tricks in the
+Kajaks, by sitting in them and turning over, so that the bottom of the
+boat became uppermost, they having their head in the water, and then
+cleverly turning up again without any assistance. Once, a whole fleet
+came, six Kajaks and three Umiaks. We hoped to find amongst them our
+friend Starick, who ought to have begun his journey to Lichtenfels by
+this time; but they were only natives, returning from seal-catching or
+merely wandering about. Of course they could not miss the opportunity
+of satisfying their curiosity. They came alongside, and some men
+stepped on board, the women meanwhile remaining in their Umiaks. The
+latter were but lightly clad. The work had made them warm, and they had
+thrown everything off that was a burden; but they thought nothing of
+arranging and completing their toilette before our ship’s crew.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on the 11th of July, at noon, we left Peru harbour with a
+favourable wind, hoping now to reach Kaksimiut. But, unfortunately,
+when about eight miles from the goal, a calm brought us to a
+stand-still, forcing us to find a suitable anchorage under the shore.
+The harbour where we lay for some days had no name; Captain Bang said
+he visited it now for the first time. Unfavourable wind, fog, and rain
+rendered our abode remarkably disagreeable. On the 14th, a boat came
+from Kaksimiut with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span> a letter. The contents were not comforting. Beyond
+there lay much ice (so it ran), and an English Kryolite ship, which had
+run out of Ivikät the week before, had suffered greatly, was obliged to
+return, and now lay a wreck in the harbour. Upon this we rejoiced that
+we were in the Constance; for had we gone to Ivikät instead, we should
+no doubt have taken shelter on board this ship, as at the time none
+other lay ready for departure. Thus it might still have happened that
+we might be once more banished by the ice to Greenland.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th of July, another attempt to run out was made. At first
+it seemed as if we should soon reach the island of Kaksimiut, but
+unfortunately a calm fell when half-way; indeed, we saw ourselves
+driven a good way back by the storm. Towards evening the wind changed,
+and we at last reached the latitude of the island. Company was soon
+found. The youth of the place paddled about, and made a noise in their
+Kajaks around the ship. The chasing and raillery of the merry crowd
+knew no end; at the same time vying with each other in paddling and
+throwing the harpoon, in which they exhibited great proficiency. As
+it got dark the swarm returned to land. It was midnight before we got
+into the harbour; and the darkness rendered it more difficult to find
+a good place for dropping anchor. The following afternoon we resolved
+to go on shore. Our only comfort in weariness (tobacco!), was it not
+vanishing? and now our last penny must be expended in its purchase.
+Kaksimiut is a provision depôt. The Danish government have here erected
+a small dwelling-house, a still smaller warehouse, and an oil-store.
+Around these buildings are grouped some dozen Greenland<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span> huts and other
+appurtenances. The island, like all those on this coast, is rocky,
+though rather low. Large stony plains slope gently towards the sea,
+so that at high water it is partly flooded. On these plateaux the
+inhabitants lay their hunting stores. The sea is the street-cleaner,
+the tide carrying away all refuse.</p>
+
+<p>After taking in at a glance the advantages of our position, and
+becoming a little more familiar with them, we made the acquaintance of
+the merchant, Mr. Motzfeld, a man of sixty-seven years of age, with a
+friendly red face and bright eyes, whose age it was not easy to guess.
+He was singularly vigorous, active, and chatty. His store of tobacco
+was at once placed at our service; and he had no hesitation, upon the
+faith of our honest faces, to supply us with a sufficient quantity
+until we should reach Denmark. Thus, at least for a time, this need
+was overcome; and full of joy the men withdrew with the beloved weed
+on board. Motzfeld took us to his house. The government building he
+did not live in; he kept it, however, for particular occasions to
+receive company; for instance, he opened it and showed us all sorts of
+rarities and curiosities which he had collected. Then he led the way
+to his dwelling. Motzfeld was married, and the father of (actually!)
+nineteen legitimate children. His wife (after the death of his first he
+had ventured on a second) was a full-blooded Greenlander. A European
+house did not suit her, she preferred living in a building of the kind
+peculiar to the country. Her husband at once provided her with one
+which, after his death, she could claim as a widow’s portion. There
+he lived with the younger part of his family; the youngest member of
+which was about a year old, whilst many of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span> the elder ones had already
+children; so that in this old man might be seen the head of a family
+which would spread all over South Greenland. We had met with some
+belonging to him in Nennortalik, Julianeshaab, and Igalliko, and some
+lived here in Kaksimiut. The wife looked like every other Greenlander,
+neither prettier nor cleaner: one must really, like her husband, who
+sprang from a good Danish family, become altogether Greenlandized
+before one can feel at home amid such surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>Friend Motzfeld was in high spirits. He rattled on with all sorts of
+fun, of course in Danish, which we could only now and then understand.
+“Yes, German he could not speak,” he said, “but sing it he could;”
+and then he sang, “Zachäus was a brave man,” and “I take my glass in
+my hand,” and so on. Meanwhile his eyes twinkled, and he accompanied
+his song with corresponding actions. The accordion, too, must make its
+notes heard; and when the concert was over, we took our leave well
+contented, and returned on board. In honour of our arrival, Motzfeld
+had killed a goat, and sent by his son the half of it on board, wrapped
+in a really clean cloth. The youth had cleaned and adorned himself,
+wore a washed <i>Anorak</i><a id="FNanchor_40" href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> and handsomely stitched shoes. We had
+noticed him some days before amongst the crowd of receivers for his
+superior agility. Judging by his friendly, intelligent face, he seemed
+a good youth. Later in the day his father came on board, joining our
+evening meal. He had all the talk to himself, the others being scarcely
+able to get a word in. But who would blame the settler for gladdening<span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span>
+his heart with gossip, and giving scope to his tongue one day in the
+year.</p>
+
+<p>The following day was Sunday. With the Greenlanders, to whom every
+day is Sunday, that does not mean much; but the men of the Constance
+thought of one particular pleasure. Here, too, through the Danes, our
+sailors soon became intimate with the inhabitants; and the festival
+of Julianeshaab had to be repeated. For this there was the more
+opportunity, as the merry Motzfeld would certainly put no hindrance in
+the way. In the afternoon he came on board. He had donned his holiday
+suit, a velvet frock and a high silk round hat, which in Greenland
+means something. The two captains and myself he invited to dinner. At
+first, remembering his Greenland domestic economy, I gave no direct
+consent; besides which, we were sorry to be a burden to a man not over
+richly stocked with European provisions. But Captain Bang persuaded us
+to accompany him, assuring us that only roasted meat, and no boiled,
+would appear at table; moreover, that Motzfeld was so well off, that he
+could afford to give us a glass of wine: so we accepted the invitation.
+This time we were received in the European house, our host’s wife and
+widowed daughter, Agatha, doing the honours; they had adorned their
+persons in order to receive us, had combed their hair, and washed
+their faces. Motzfeld experienced “the noble pride of hospitality,”
+and offered all that his desert island had to offer; the other half
+of the goat sent to us roasted, stewed fruits, bread and butter, wine
+and grog. In drinking he took the lead, and scolded us because we
+did not properly respond. Meanwhile matters had become lively in the
+other room. The fiddles squeaked,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span> the accordion drawled, and the feet
+shuffled and stamped in tune. The ball was opened. As we came out, the
+same sight met us as at Julianeshaab in the stores. In a cloud of dust,
+redolent of the fumes of the oil-lamps, heads were spinning round each
+other; and here, too, the tuft of hair belonging to some fair one came
+in very close contact with the face of the partner or spectator. The
+conversation was highly interesting, and it was not long before our
+old host had grasped a jolly maiden, and was swinging round with the
+others. He could not understand that neither myself, nor the steersmen,
+who now came in, would know anything of the dance.</p>
+
+<p>Much too early, according to his idea, did we leave his hospitable
+roof, and much too little honour had we done to his rum. He could
+not reproach himself in that respect, for, even after our departure,
+he continued to probe the contents of the bottle in quiet solitude,
+eventually giving unmistakable proofs to the still active company in
+the ball-room of the effect produced by a somewhat excessive enjoyment
+of spirituous liquors.</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the 18th of July brought more life than usual into our
+neighbourhood. A small coasting vessel, bound to Julianeshaab, had,
+on her return journey, put into Kaksimiut harbour in order to land
+some goods and take in oil. She brought the news that the Peru, on
+her way to Julianeshaab, would that day pass Kaksimiut. For Motzfeld,
+besides various other things, they had brought a barrel of liquor. The
+receiver had at once proved both quality and quantity, and found them
+excellent, which accounted for his spirits being of the best order when
+he came on board that morning. Not long after that, we saw him pull
+out of the bay in holiday<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span> costume, in an Umiak (from which waved the
+Danish flag) to pay a visit to the Peru. Only the cylinder hat had he
+taken the precaution to leave at home. From the Constance, too, a boat
+went to the Peru. Myself and several other officers, with some of the
+men, went on shore. Agatha (it was ten a.m.) had not yet had time to
+wash herself since yesterday, and on the faces of several other young
+ladies were evident traces of yesterday’s exertions in the ball-room.
+Mrs. Motzfeld sat in her house in her new Natzek. On the bench, by the
+window, which was provided with a crane, stood the liquor-cask, and
+close by a full-drawn bottle and a large glass. This day the merchant’s
+house seemed to have a great attraction for the people of Kaksimiut;
+for they spoke oftener than usual, and did not go away without
+something to strengthen them. The old Greenland captain came from the
+schooner, the catechist came; indeed, every one came who had time, and
+as often as he had time. The cause of this unusual frequency it is easy
+to guess. When we returned on board we learned the news as to what
+the Peru had brought with her, and also that Mr. Motzfeld, faithful
+as ever, without further consideration, had started in the Peru for
+Julianeshaab. Kaksimiut was, therefore, bereft of its head. Indeed, as
+I came on shore in the afternoon for a ramble through the island it lay
+deserted and still. Through many cross-roads and by-ways, I returned to
+the settlement. Not a creature was to be seen. At last some of our men
+turned up, who at this unusual hour were returning on board. “Well,”
+said I, “is Kaksimiut dead to-day?” “No, not that,” they answered, “but
+they are all drunk.” And so they were. They lay in the huts, young and
+old, men and women,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span> under the influence of liquor, no longer masters
+of themselves. Motzfeld’s wife was no exception to the rule, and even
+her offspring were in high spirits. They had got possession of the
+emblem of their father’s pride and dignity, the cylinder hat, and were
+quarrelling over it to their hearts’ content, as, sitting on the roof
+of the house, they played with it as prettily as an ape or a cat might.
+Only two of the whole number of the inhabitants were really sober,
+Hans, Motzfeld’s son, and a young girl named Concordia, who was a
+praiseworthy exception to the rest of her countrywomen. In the evening
+they brought the crane back to the ship. How much, or rather how
+little, of his liquor Mr. Motzfeld found left on his return, what heavy
+punishment he awarded to the culprits who had drunk it, and with what
+joy he saw his cylinder hat once more—of all this I was unfortunately
+not an eyewitness; but the respected reader can, without much trouble,
+picture it for himself. The next morning brought a thick fog, which,
+however, cleared at noon, and the wind was fair; we, therefore, weighed
+anchor, and bade adieu to Kaksimiut. Above, on the rocks, sat the
+maidens of the place; they had soon formed a fervent friendship for our
+people on board, and, as they saw the whole establishment departing,
+waved a sad farewell to us; indeed, some of them were wiping their
+eyes. So rare and entertaining a visit, and of such short duration!</p>
+
+<p>In and out among the islands, we now floated northwards. Soon the
+steep fall of the giant Serminalik, the most southerly moraine in West
+Greenland lay before us. A powerful broad belt here forced the inner
+ice over the berg into the sea. Since we had left East Greenland we had
+not seen a glacier so near to us. On the east<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span> side, too, under the
+same latitude, there are some huge ones; but there the belt of moraines
+reaches down to 60° of lat., whilst this most southerly one lies quite
+alone in 61°. After a long open space to the north of Frederickshaab is
+another large one, the Iisblink, with its feet dipping in the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Soon we had the island of Tunarsoit, and the wild, jagged rocks of the
+high Malenefjelds, in sight. We hoped to be in Arsut the following
+morning, but in the straits between Nunarsoit and the continent
+the wind changed, and we had to ride at anchor. This was the more
+necessary, as it presently became more violent, and at noon a regular
+storm burst; so we lay once more bound to a deserted strand. The
+weather would not even allow of any further excursion, as the wind
+brought up heavy masses of fog, rendering any ramble unsafe. It did
+not last long, however. On the morning of the 22nd of July I noticed
+with joy, from the rolling of the ship, that we must be at sea, and I
+was right. With a favourable wind we had weighed anchor at half-past
+four a.m., and going through the straits of Torsukatek, were at sea.
+Already far to the south, when I came on deck, lay the rocky pinnacles
+of Malenefjeld, and on that side of the shore they showed me the
+entrance to a Fjord; that was the Arsut Fjord, close to which the
+Kryolite layers are found, which would, of course, be very interesting
+to me. If one leaves Rome without having seen the Pope, it is a sad
+misfortune; still perhaps one may see him the next time one comes.
+But when a geologist has so much and for so long traversed Greenland,
+and now, when near one of the most interesting spots, is recklessly
+carried past it, his misfortune is very much greater. It could not be
+helped,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span> however. We left it further and further behind. In the warm,
+bright sunshine a troop of fin-back whales were playing round us,
+which, in their security, swam with astonishing boldness so close to
+the ship that they dashed the water all over the deck. The gambols of
+these colossal creatures were wonderfully interesting. It was like an
+explosion under the sea, when two or more of these whales leaped at
+the same time out of the water, and rested on the surface, beating it
+with their flappers, until the sound was like that of great guns. The
+natives had left us, and now these giants of the Arctic seas had become
+our escort.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, unfortunately, the wind died away, and the next morning
+we had not advanced much farther, namely, still in the latitude
+of Frederickshaab. It was not long before the people noticed us.
+Natives approached, and later a boat came alongside with the colonial
+officials. At first Captain Bang did not seem to wish to cast anchor
+again; but at length several different circumstances induced him to do
+so, and thus we were once more to go on shore.</p>
+
+<p>Frederickshaab lies in 62° Lat. and 50° 1′ Long. The colony has not
+the extent of Julianeshaab. The district lies at the extremity of a
+Fjord-arm, into which a small stream flows. It is not protected by
+islands, and offers a safe harbour for any ship running in; but the
+Greenland captains avoid lying-to in Frederickshaab, as they are often
+prevented for weeks together, by fog and contrary winds, from running
+out again. The houses lie on a plateau between three mountains; to the
+right and left rise two round-headed granite peaks and a wild jagged
+rock, the Kotenfjeld, which shuts in the prospect. From any of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span> these
+summits one has a most pleasant view of the colony. By the harbour
+lie the magazines. The governor’s house scarcely differs from the
+others, and, owing to its surroundings, appears very low. Some other
+buildings, the clergyman’s and the assistant’s dwellings, stand in
+the same row. A cleanly-kept broad foot-way, and an open space before
+the chief building paved with gravel, look well against the green
+plots within the colony. The church stands at the upper end of the
+settlement, and is surrounded by a grave-yard hedged in with stakes.
+Between this and the houses of the officials stand the huts of the
+natives, which throughout are supplied with plank roofs. Seen from a
+distance, Frederickshaab seems an exception to the general rule in
+Greenland; but when you go into the district itself, there is the same
+disorder and the same intolerable stench as there is everywhere else.
+The church-yard, which at a distance looks quite decent, really reminds
+one more of a place where the flayer does his work; for on the graves
+and on the sward lie bones brought by the dogs; whale bones, birds,
+and fish in a state of putridity, lie all around, and nothing but the
+stakes separated this place from that lying in the same state between
+the houses, which is still more disfigured by the inevitable dung-heaps.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the governor, his assistant, and a pastor, no Europeans live
+here. Nevertheless, the natives, who are without exception half-breeds,
+have a strikingly European cast of countenance, the men as well as the
+women. Besides this, Ivikät being in the neighbourhood, from whence
+the Kryolite ships frequently have to put into Frederickshaab, they
+are accustomed to intercourse with Europeans. I even saw some native
+girls going about in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span> European dress, though evidently without the
+necessary under-clothes; and comical enough they looked, as they
+slid down hill-slopes with the rest of their tribe. The population
+is, moreover, not at all numerous, and exceeds but little that of
+Kaksimiut. The object of our stay in Frederickshaab was entirely that
+of baking bread and brewing beer. Brewing beer is in Greenland, in
+the mission-stations as well as in the colonies, a business, and the
+beverage produced is very agreeable. The German missionaries brew white
+beer, the Danes their much-loved brown beer. Of course, the malt is
+brought from Europe. A very primitively-erected brewing place is found
+in every large district, as well as a kneading trough, and both were
+found here. Brewing and baking were done with most industrious haste;
+and so it happened that the bread failed, and the beer turned sour,
+though through the whole sea voyage both would have to be used. We
+did not try to make any acquaintances in Frederickshaab, though our
+own men were soon friendly with the natives, and the customary dance
+easily arranged; but they did not seem to be so comfortable as in
+Julianeshaab. We were invited, through Captain Bang, to the governor’s,
+but did not go, as subsequently there was a death in the house.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Hildebrandt had an opportunity of greatly astonishing the natives
+by his cleverness in canoe paddling. As everywhere else, so in the
+harbour of Frederickshaab, the Constance was continually surrounded by
+visitors, who, by their odd ways, whiled away the time.</p>
+
+<p>Matters, however, did not always go so smoothly with the Kajak; and
+they often had an opportunity of making acquaintance with the watery
+element. Thus it happened<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span> to the aforesaid gentleman, who got upset
+with the Kajak, and came on board wet as a poodle. But, when close
+to the man-rope he turned round, sprang into the water, and swam
+in the bitterly cold stream around the Constance. Such a thing the
+Greenlanders had never before seen; and although they are, as it were,
+part of their Kajaks, they can none of them swim: the bitter cold of
+the element of itself forbids it. Their astonishment found vent in all
+sorts of exclamations, when Mr. Hildebrandt returned on board. Whenever
+they saw him afterwards, they begged him to repeat the trick once more.
+Patiently they waited the whole day by the ship, but the artistic
+swimmer did not satisfy their curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>The neighbourhood of Frederickshaab offered but little that was
+interesting. We passed the time in aimless rambles, and viewing the
+prospects from the heights which, at last, rewarded us with a lovely
+distant view. We could not, however, count upon our stay here; for
+already, on the evening of the 24th, our business on shore was nearly
+ended, so that we might hope to put to sea the following day. But not
+until early on the 25th of July could the anchor be weighed for our
+homeward voyage, when, for the last time, we trod on Greenland soil.
+The dense ice out at sea forced the Constance still to keep a northward
+course. Wind and weather favoured us. By the evening we had the great
+Ice-blink near Fiskernäss, the second great glacier of South Greenland,
+close to us. The huge masses of ice showed the gateways and arches in
+a greenish light; and now louder, now fainter, we heard the washing of
+the water. A lovely evening closed the day. Once more did we see that
+magic light, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span> we had already learnt to recognize on the other
+side of the ice, and of which in our homely latitudes, we can form no
+idea. But the burning red clouds boded no good; and, indeed, we tacked
+the next day in a pretty strong wind and thick fog.</p>
+
+<p>As it cleared on the 29th of July, we could see far away the bergs of
+the Greenland coast. On the 30th, the Constance took a westerly course.
+Towards evening, the well-known rushing of breakers on the ice struck
+our ears. Soon the barrier was before us, but the floes lay far apart;
+and how different they looked! Jagged and crumbling, small, and to our
+eyes insignificant, they drifted about, the sport of the waves. Once
+more we heard the well-known command on the ice, “floe upon floe, keep
+back!” Herds of seals which lay upon them lifted their heads curiously.
+They should not want a farewell greeting; and soon the needle-gun
+resounded, sending death to the harmless creatures, for the last time
+on our voyage.</p>
+
+<p>Behind us lay the ice, which closed up, forming a blinding white strip;
+and the Greenland icebergs, gilded with the setting sun, sent us their
+parting greeting. They sank deeper and deeper; the veil of night spread
+over all; and when we came on deck the following day, we were in
+latitude 65° 11′, on the high sea in Davis Straits. “31st July. No more
+ice! Set southwards, and—O heavenly music of the word—homewards!”</p>
+
+<p>This is the last note in my day-book. I write it with feelings too deep
+for expression. A few weeks more, and all we have gone through will lie
+behind us, and all that we have suffered (if God will) be at an end!
+But how long will this trial of our patience last?</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span></p>
+
+<p>After nearly a month’s voyage across the lonely North Atlantic Ocean,
+the Shetland Isles at last hove in sight. Soon they were reached,
+and a fresh wind drove us into the German Ocean. In all directions
+did we scour the broad plain with our glasses to discover the first
+German vessel, which, perhaps, taking the direct way to our country,
+might hurry on with the news of our return. But none were to be seen.
+On the great Doggerbank were none but Dutch and Moravian fishermen.
+The entrance of the Kattegat was now reached; the sea around us was
+animated. In the latitude of Skagen there lay with us 300 ships, whose
+destination was the Baltic Sea. But still no German sail showed itself!
+What did it mean? Had the German nation given up seafaring since our
+departure? Then the pilot came on board, and brought the news of the
+great events which had taken place in Europe in the interval. Now
+for the first time did we learn how that the long-impending war with
+our old enemy had broken out; and how that the Danes themselves must
+in truth confess that hitherto the German arms had been crowned with
+victory. Now all was cleared up. Now we understood why we had met with
+no German vessels, why hundreds of German ships lay at anchor in the
+roads of Helsingör. How it flew from mouth to mouth! We were not yet on
+our home soil, and all the younger ones were eager to be off to France;
+they only feared “it might be over before they reached it in time to
+have a brush with the French.”</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of September we at length reached Copenhagen. The handsome
+pleasant town, with its beautiful beech-groves, made a doubly
+satisfactory impression on us strangers. How different the landscape
+appeared<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span> here in comparison with the waste shores of Greenland! With
+pleasure, even in the Sound, did our eyes roam over the banks; and with
+joy did we greet the neat suburbs and the green trees, which we had not
+seen for so long. Here, in Copenhagen, were we restored to civilized
+society; the two captains had gone on shore together; we remained on
+board. The Constance was laid up in the Train-oil dock.</p>
+
+<p>It now entered our heads that it was necessary to pay some attention
+to our outward appearance; and our ragged community had a hearty laugh
+at one another. In our present condition we could not leave the ship,
+at least not by day, or we should certainly have been compromised
+with the police. Some in sealskin caps, some in “kamiken,”<a id="FNanchor_41" href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> others
+in sea-boots, from which the toes protruded, with ragged trousers,
+and threadbare coats, or Iceland shirts; thus we returned home. At
+last Captain Hegemann fetched us away in a fly in the twilight. Our
+first visit was to a clothing warehouse; and one cannot blame the
+owner for trying to protect his goods from us until he had received a
+certificate from the Consul, which gave him a little more confidence.
+Then essentially improved in appearance, we drove to the hotel; even
+the host seemed surprised at the sight of such unusual guests; but we
+were changed for the better, and could walk through the streets of
+Copenhagen without fear of making acquaintance with the police through
+outward appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Thanks to the telegraph, the news of our happy return spread from one
+end to the other of our country, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span> soon more and more distinct
+tidings followed. On the 3rd of September, the same day that through
+the home provinces, indeed through the whole of Europe, the news of
+the night battle of Sedan flew, we trod on German soil, coming through
+Friedericia in Schleswig. Flags were everywhere displayed. In the
+evening, every suburb we reached was illuminated, until we entered
+Hamburg in time to witness the great illumination in celebration of the
+victories, and thus greeted our country, as it were, in triumph.</p>
+
+<p>Thus we all stood again on native soil; and after so much distress and
+danger, we had the happiness, scarcely hoped for in many weary hours,
+of shaking hands with relations and friends. We should certainly have
+preferred it, had we, like the Germania later on, been able to run into
+Bremen harbour with our good ship, instead of coming into Bremen in an
+express car by the east gate from Hamburg; but it was so destined. And
+now that all is done, and our fate accomplished by a higher power, may
+all murmuring as to the right or wrong be far from us.</p>
+
+<p>As the consciousness of honourably fulfilling one’s duty is comforting,
+so we Hansa men will quietly await the judgment of our contemporaries.
+We cannot flatter ourselves that we have greatly increased the
+knowledge of Greenland; but we have shown what man’s nature can bear,
+and what man’s strength and perseverance can accomplish.</p>
+
+<p>The narrator closes this account with the hope that he has succeeded in
+rendering these extraordinary adventures, which must always be unique
+in their kind, interesting to the reader.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span></p>
+
+<p class="center p2 lg">PART II.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h2>CHAPTER I.<br>
+<span class="subhed">CONTINUATION OF THE VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA, AFTER HER SEPARATION
+FROM THE HANSA. LANDING OF THE GERMANIA ON EAST GREENLAND. FROM
+21ST JULY TO 5TH AUGUST, 1869.</span></h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Meeting with the whaler Bienenkorb.—Visit on board.—Small
+prospect of reaching the coast.—Advantage of steam in
+ice-voyages.—Animal life.—Wonderful effect of the Arctic
+climate on health.—Ice scenery.—Among the ice-packs.—First
+sight of land.—The Bienenkorb and Hudson in sight.—Visit from
+the former.—A mirage.—Nearing the coast.—Pendulum Island in
+sight.—Open water westwards.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Thus on the 20th July, an event took place, as unlooked for as it was
+fatal in its consequences for the success of our undertaking, without
+raising gloomy forebodings in any of us. To be separated for a short
+time from our sister ship under existing circumstances caused no
+uneasiness; at noon, therefore, on the day that the Hansa disappeared
+in the fog we set all sail, but at two o’clock we struck upon the ice
+and were obliged to turn. We afterwards found that this was a tongue of
+ice which the Hansa had passed to windward of, to enable her to advance
+further westward. On account of the thick fog we laid our topsail
+aback. At five o’clock the atmosphere cleared a little, but though we
+watched eagerly, the Hansa was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span> no longer to be seen; to the south-west
+we saw a whaler in the drift-ice. We had already seen this ship in
+the morning, and, as it was our last chance of sending news home, had
+hastened to finish our letters. It was a curious sight; everywhere and
+in every possible position we were busy writing; the ship might have
+been taken for an academy of science in which all were working out
+a difficult problem. As we approached we saw that it was a steamer,
+and from its red and white flag, must be the Bienenkorb, Captain
+Hagen, belonging to Mr. Rosenthal of Bremerhaven. Dr. Dorst of Jülich
+was on this vessel taking meteorological, astronomical and magnetic
+observations. We crossed to her, taking with us a whole packet of
+letters. It was indeed a pleasure to us to be once more amongst other
+men, and doubtless those of the Bienenkorb thought the same. This ship
+was five times as big as the Germania, a somewhat old-fashioned craft,
+full rigged, and had only had machinery within the last few years. On
+deck in a large cage was a bear and her two cubs; fortunately for them,
+on board a whaler they were not likely to want for food.</p>
+
+<p>One would think that a creature so powerful and active could never
+be taken alive, but on its hunting expeditions among the drift-ice
+it frequently trusts itself to the water, and here in spite of its
+endurance, man is more active and clever, and with a well managed boat,
+a lucky cast of the noose generally falls on the neck of the swimming
+bear, when half dragged and half swimming he is hoisted on deck like
+any other animal, the noose round its neck, being a guarantee for
+its peaceful behaviour. On their return they are generally sold to
+some menagerie or Zoological Garden, the price of a full-grown animal
+being 100 or 150 thalers; sometimes they are killed and skinned,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span> the
+skin being salted, and afterwards sold for 15 or 20 thalers. Looking
+beyond the ship we saw the tail fins of some narwhals (<i>Monodon
+monoceros</i>, L.). These creatures are common here, but are seldom
+harpooned as they are uncommonly quick in their movements. We then
+went down into the cabin to enjoy the usual bottle of sherry. Captain
+Hagen’s report of the condition of the ice was most unfavourable. Since
+the beginning of June easterly winds had prevailed, on account of
+which the ice was now dense and closely packed for some miles. These
+observations were afterwards confirmed by the Hansa, which about this
+time was blockaded by the ice. We also learnt that there were several
+ships further south, amongst which we hoped to meet with Captain Gray,
+commander of the Eclipse from Peterhead (Scotland). Dr. Dorst showed
+us some interesting drawings of the narwhal and several views of Jan
+Mayen, which island the Bienenkorb was fortunate enough to see in a
+clear atmosphere. We returned to the Germania about midnight. Meanwhile
+the wind had freshened, but there was a thick fog; so we had to remain
+under sail amongst the block. The following day at noon (21st) the
+weather brightened, and we saw that we were more or less surrounded
+with drift-ice; and with a light south-west breeze it was useless to
+attempt any advance westward. We therefore lay-to, and as there was a
+large floe close to us, with several pools of water upon it, we landed
+in order to renew our store of fresh water, which was nearly exhausted.
+This was the first time during the voyage that we had set foot on the
+ice, and the opportunity of closely observing it was not lost. Besides
+this, the deep blue light proceeding from the cavity of an ice block
+was subjected to an analysis by the spectroscope.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span></p>
+
+<p>When our scientific observations were over we joined the row of
+water-bearers, forming two lines along which the full and empty buckets
+were merrily passed, but it was midnight before our task was done and
+we retired to rest.</p>
+
+<p>At two a.m. we made an attempt to advance, but the fog was still too
+thick.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p2680_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p2680_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ICE-DRIFT FORMATIONS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>In the night a seal was killed: it was a small young thing and was
+brought on deck alive, when it looked boldly around and seemed ready to
+fall upon its enemies. Soon afterwards we obtained a good specimen of
+the large petrel (<i>Uria brunnichii</i>). Until the 23rd the weather
+remained foggy: we kept tacking in the loose drift-ice and along the
+edge of the heavy ice which seemed everywhere closed. To the north of
+74° we found it so solid and huge that the captain determined, if he
+could find an opening, to go south of 74°, instead of beyond it.</p>
+
+<p>The 24th July was very cold, and we had a fire in the cabin. Towards
+evening we again saw the Bienenkorb to the north of us, and in 73° 40′
+lat. we thought that our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span> efforts might be successful; accordingly on
+Sunday the 25th July at nine a.m. steam was got up and we forced our
+way westward through the ice; at first it was pretty thick, so that,
+occasionally, we could only make a way through the floes by boring
+with high steam pressure and full sail. At noon, after making sixteen
+miles in a westerly direction, we reached open water; but after a few
+miles the ice closed again. We then went more southward and, later on,
+somewhat eastward, still steaming along the dense pack-ice; the weather
+was gloomy and rainy, and at eight p.m. it was so foggy that we had to
+lay by a large floe, that we might not run into a “cul-de-sac,” and be
+blocked up by the ice.</p>
+
+<p>The great advantage we possessed in our steam can scarcely be
+overrated, for during the foggy weather we could with our heated
+machinery remain quiet on one spot. If the ice closed upon us, we could
+steam to another suitable spot, and in clear weather could in a few
+hours inspect several miles of the icy edge for an opening. Besides
+the determination of the ship’s position, and the usual meteorological
+observations, soundings were made when possible, magnetic observations
+taken, photographing, fishing, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>Of the lower class of animals there was little that was new, and we
+tried in vain for the <i>Clio borealis</i>, the chief food of the
+whale: seals we saw frequently.</p>
+
+<p>The bird world remained the same, but was poorly represented. Solitary
+mallemuckes were seldom wanting, besides which were snow buntings
+(<i>Larus eburneus</i>) and robber gulls (<i>Lestris</i>), and between
+the floes swam small groups of divers and black guillemots (<i>Uria
+grylle</i>).</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of much ice we found that the temperature sank
+considerably, from 31.52° Fahr. to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span> 30.20° Fahr., but the most striking
+fact was the small difference between the heat of the day and night.
+This was at the most only one degree, and frequently less than that.
+Such an unusual state of things must have some effect on the human
+frame. Such an equal climate is not possible in the temperate and
+torrid zones, and only in the Arctic latitudes among the ice; of course
+this must be as beneficial to the skin as to the respiratory organs.
+Indeed we were all in the best of health, and this was astonishing,
+considering the low temperature, fog, and other damp we had to
+encounter: not one of us suffering from catarrh. But we must not lose
+sight of the fact that our acclimatization was gradual, we were not
+suddenly set down in the ice, but approached it gradually.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th of July, at noon, according to astronomical calculations,
+we were in 73° 7′ N. Lat., and 16° 4′ W. Long. from Greenwich. The
+weather was fine, with a light south wind; we steamed some nautical
+miles westward, and again came upon densely packed ice, without a sign
+of water anywhere; and the channel by which we had just come began to
+close, so that we were obliged to steam back to prevent ourselves from
+being blocked. At eleven p.m. the atmosphere cleared entirely, and we
+had the first sight of the midnight sun. Of open water we could see but
+little, though to the north it seemed pretty free.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p2701_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p2701_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_270"><i>Page 270.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">IN THE PACK.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The floe by which we lay was, like many more around us, very large and
+wild and jagged in appearance, resembling a miniature mountain range.
+In some places the surface was slightly arched, falling gently to the
+water; yonder were steep ridges, broken by a ravine, through which ran
+a small brook. On one spot lay blocks of different sizes thrown one
+upon another; and at another <span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span>spot the ice rose like steep rocky
+masses, or solitary columns, points, and peaks, to a height of from
+twenty to thirty feet. Forcing our way through this labyrinth, we were
+astonished at the sight of a fine broad sea of clear, light green
+water. The snow, changed into ice, covered these floes so thickly that
+we often sank as if in soft snow-drifts to the depth of from two to
+four feet.</p>
+
+<p>We were particularly interested in watching the small creatures in
+the sea, which we did by lying flat upon the ice and looking over
+the edge of the floe: the stickleback (<i>Calanus hyperboreus</i>,
+K.) were turning summersaults up to the surface, their red feelers
+coming into strong relief against the blue background; then came a
+yellow spot, gradually increasing until we recognized a small crawfish
+(<i>Lysianassa</i>) hurriedly wending its way to the surface, and then
+laying itself in a niche, or on a tongue of ice to rest, nothing but
+the constant motion of its webbed feet showing that the creature lived.
+Now and again in the depths, a fine Beroë might be seen moving slowly
+on its way.</p>
+
+<p>It was a fine, still midnight, too wonderfully solemn and grand to be
+easily forgotten. The fog had almost entirely disappeared, and lay to
+the east, like a bank over the water. The sea was perfectly calm, so
+that the ice was clearly reflected, and where the water was visible
+it had taken different colours; under the clouds it lay dark, and
+from blackish brown to yellowish; and where the atmosphere was clear
+it glistened a transparent green. Even to the brush of an experienced
+artist, it would be no light task to render the different colours and
+lights truly; this soft red of the sun upon the ice; on the shady side
+of the blocks, the softest blue and violet; and between, the deepest,
+coldest shadow. Effects such as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span> these can only be produced in all
+their beauty by the midnight sun in a region of ice; indeed, to fully
+appreciate the peculiar beauty of such a scene, one must see it with
+one’s own eyes.</p>
+
+<p>All had long since been hushed on board, but we felt no fatigue. This
+wonderful repose of nature, without either motion or life, overcomes
+one with a feeling of boundless desolation and solitude. Now and again
+the stillness is broken by a thundering and cracking, softened by the
+distance, and suddenly a rushing of water is heard, accompanied by a
+groaning and blowing; it is a herd of narwhals coming to the surface
+for breath. But the hours of night are fast running out, and with one
+more look we descend to our cabin.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p2720_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p2720_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+    <p class="p0 sm center">FIRST APPEARANCE OF LAND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>About four a.m., as we were about to start again, a dense fog rolled
+up; some hours later, however, it dispersed, and we steamed in a
+northerly direction, as from that quarter we should most probably
+sooner see open water. At half-past eight the fog cleared completely,
+and we forced our way through a chain of connected<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span> floes, when in a
+north-westerly direction we found comparatively open water; and after
+making about sixteen nautical miles, at one a.m. on the 29th saw land
+distinctly. From our position, this must have been Cape Broer Ruys. By
+four a.m., we had advanced so far, that only to the east did there seem
+to be any loose ice; we therefore stopped at a brash to fill our boiler
+with fresh water, and wait for a change. The only living thing we were
+likely to see here was a bear; but although our hunters looked eagerly
+around, his shining yellow coat was nowhere to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>As the atmosphere was so clear in the morning, we made some
+observations on the degrees of the sun’s heat. A blackened-bulb
+thermometer rose to nearly 99.50° Fahr. A common instrument, just above
+the snow, showed 50° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th of July, our observations at noon gave our position as
+73° 2′ N. Lat., and 16° 19′ W. Long., which compared with the log
+reckoning, showed us to have made twenty-seven nautical miles more
+southwards in two days’ work. This we partly attributed to the north
+wind, which had caused a rapid drift of ice.</p>
+
+<p>The attempts of the last few days showed that in this latitude it was
+impossible to get through; so, after being driven back to 73°, the
+captain determined to keep clear of the ice and to try again in 74°, as
+he thought that the north wind might have made an opening. Accordingly
+we steamed eastward, partly through thick drifting ice. Here we saw
+two ships, which turned out to be the Bienenkorb and the Hudson; we
+advanced to meet the former, and Captain Hagen and Dr. Dorst came on
+board. The captain was disheartened at not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span> having caught a single
+whale; he considered it impossible to reach the coast this year, and
+determined to begin his homeward journey in a few days. Of the Hansa,
+during the last nine days, he had seen nothing. At ten p.m. on the 29th
+of July, we took leave of the Bienenkorb, and steered in a northerly
+direction to try and reach the coast in 74° N. Lat.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was clear and still, and we had a good opportunity of
+observing the refraction of light and the mirage. The whole atmosphere
+was quivering with a kind of wavy motion, so that the exact outline of
+the object was often so distorted as to be unrecognizable. It may be
+imagined that pictures of things far beyond our range of sight could
+thus be seen. Scoresby relates, and it was afterwards proved true, that
+he once saw and recognized his father’s ship, perfectly, in the mirage
+when it was thirty miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>The effects of this phenomenon on the distant ice was wonderful;
+sometimes it appeared like a mighty wall, and sometimes like a town
+rich in towers and castles.</p>
+
+<p>On the 30th of July the weather was fine, and the wind, to our joy,
+westerly; the ice was, however, so impassable that we had to steam
+still further north, as the captain found that within the last eight
+days the ice barrier had shifted some degrees to the east, and he had
+hopes of finding a large opening in the pack-ice.</p>
+
+<p>On the 31st of July, at four p.m., we were in 73° 59′ N. Lat., and 13°
+3′ W. Long., when we saw a great deal of loose ice, and forcing our way
+through, steered in a westerly direction. Towards evening the wind died
+away, and we got up steam, the floes lying loosely scattered around
+us. Here, as on other occasions, steam<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span> stood us in good stead, and we
+threaded our way easily amongst them.</p>
+
+<p>By ten a.m., on the 1st of August, we had steamed without interruption
+thirty-six miles, and were of course so much nearer the coast; here
+a dense barrier prevented our farther advance. Land was in sight
+(Pendulum Island), which by a strong refraction seemed much raised and
+transfigured. The same refraction also showed us what appeared to be
+open water westwards. Mr. Sengstacke was of opinion that it was only
+a few nautical miles distant, but he soon saw his mistake. That there
+was open water under the land, there was scarcely a doubt; but it was
+separated from us by an icy barrier, several German miles broad. Under
+these circumstances, the captain thought it better to keep our post and
+wait for a change in the position of the ice.<a id="FNanchor_42" href="#Footnote_42" class="fnanchor">[41]</a></p>
+
+<p>Ross himself lays great stress upon the fact that, in the ice, a little
+judgment and a little patience go farther than advancing headlong, and
+often save much danger. Here we increased our zoological collection by
+a fine reddish Clio; the dredging net was also let down at 224 fathoms,
+but brought up nothing but stones.</p>
+
+<p>Universal interest was raised by the mallemuckes (<i>Mergulus
+alle</i>), which for some days had followed us in flocks. Voraciousness
+is the chief characteristic of these birds; and if a large solid piece
+of bacon is thrown into the water, which they cannot swallow at a gulp,
+a dreadful battle ensues; sometimes two or three begin upon it at
+different ends, working both with beak and claw. We<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span> often fastened a
+piece of bacon to a string or hook, and easily caught one and brought
+it on deck. The bird is not ugly; its colour is variable; the young
+ones are greyish, whilst the old ones are, with the exception of the
+wings, almost always white; its head is the most peculiar looking part
+of it, being highly arched; its strong bluish beak is high and bent
+like a hook.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the 2nd of August a thick fog came on, lasting the
+whole day, and to prevent our impatience from gaining the mastery we
+all had recourse to the ropes.</p>
+
+<p>On the 3rd it was clear; the ice had indeed changed its position: we
+were more surrounded than ever by floes, and to the east still less
+water could be seen. We, however, broke through the ice, and steamed in
+a north-westerly direction. The floes became larger and larger; and at
+last the endless brashes and boundless ice-fields came in sight. At ten
+p.m. we anchored by a large field, on account of the fog; we sounded
+155 fathoms, nothing but mud. We were in 74° 18′ N. Lat. and 16° 6′ W.
+Long.</p>
+
+<p>On the 4th, at a quarter-past eight a.m., we started westward once
+more; the air was thick with snow; to the west we saw a dark water sky,
+and steered between the brashes and fields in that direction. At nine
+we came into a large piece of open water, with a few floes drifting. At
+noon we anchored, principally on account of the boiler, which had to be
+cleared from the salt. We were in 74° 19′ N. Lat. and 16° 59′ W. Long.,
+not more than thirty-one nautical miles from Sabine Island.</p>
+
+<p>On these fields we first saw the bears; there were two watching our
+ship with great curiosity. Our first shot missed, and they hurriedly
+took to flight.</p>
+
+<p>At ten p.m. fog gradually came on, and we were not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> more than five
+German miles from the coast; but at half-past ten it cleared again, and
+the whole group of islands lay clear and distinct before us. The water
+was open, and we made straight for Griper Roads.</p>
+
+<p>We were all greatly excited, and, in spite of the severe cold, remained
+nearly the whole night on deck. In the early morning we had a fall of
+snow, giving the ship a thick white covering. A few miles from land a
+large brash lay direct in our course; this we sailed round, and at last
+anchored in a small bay, which was afterwards our winter harbour.</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of August we dropped anchor on Greenland soil, and a loud
+“hurrah!” arose as we planted our flag, which also waved proudly from
+the mainmast.</p>
+
+<p>In the day-book we find that at the beginning of our voyage strong
+north-westerly winds prevailed, which of course delayed us. We all
+noticed the increase of temperature, both in the atmosphere and the
+water, from the coast of Norway until the latitude of the Shetland
+Islands, and then a decrease in both after crossing the Arctic circle.
+The influence of the warm gulf-stream was unmistakable, and was
+observed by both ships.</p>
+
+<p>During the first part of the month of July easterly winds prevailed,
+driving the ice up to the borders, and making it impossible to break
+through. In the second part of July northerly and southerly winds
+alternated without bringing any great change in the ice; but at the
+beginning of August strong westerly winds set in, so loosening it that
+we easily made our way through. A glance at the ship’s course on the
+chart will show distinctly how the ice shifted in the beginning of
+August. Before this time it had been impossible to reach the coast.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER II.<br>
+<span class="subhed">PENDULUM ISLAND. STATE OF THE ICE NORTHWARDS. LANDING ON SHANNON ISLAND.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Accident to Dr. Pansch.—Boat voyage to the
+mainland.—Scientific operations.—Attempt of the Germania to
+advance northwards.—Musk-oxen.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The group of islands known under the name of Pendulum Islands were
+first discovered and appropriated by Clavering in the year 1823. He
+anchored his ship, the Griper, on the south side of the largest island,
+between it and the mainland. On this side of the island is good anchor
+ground; several glacier streams debouche here, bringing with them soil
+and mud, and the roads are protected from heavy ice by a small island
+lying in front, which, from the number of walrus seen there, we called
+Walrus Island.</p>
+
+<p>According to our instructions, the position of Sabine’s Observatory
+was to be sought for and newly marked, after which we were to advance
+northward; this, of course, caused a stay of some days. The astronomers
+brought out their instruments to determine our exact position, and
+settling the magnetic constants on land, especially towards the tongue
+of land eastward from our harbour (Cairn Point), where we conjectured
+Sabine’s Observatory to have been, but of which, with all our seeking,
+we could find not the slightest trace, nor of anything else which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span>
+might show that Europeans had ever visited the spot. First Lieutenant
+Payer made preparations for surveying the island; and Dr. Pansch roamed
+through it as explorer and naturalist, inspecting the remains of the
+Esquimaux huts found by Sabine on the tongue of land to the west of our
+stand-point.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon the weather, which on our arrival had been unfriendly
+and snowy, became fine and clear, with a perfect calm and a temperature
+of 41° Fahr. From the plateau of the neighbouring mountains, the
+barometrical height of which was 1040 feet, we had an extensive view
+over the sea from the north-east round to the south, as well as over
+the surrounding land, and along the coast to the north.</p>
+
+<p>The condition of the ice was here first distinctly seen. The straits
+between Sabine Island and the mainland, and also between the two
+largest islands, were completely blocked with apparently old land ice.
+Farther north, between Shannon Island and the mainland, as far as the
+eye could reach, the ice was firm, and, from its whole position, we
+might well conclude that there would be no breaking up that year. Along
+the coast, therefore, we could not advance further north; the only
+possible way remaining was by the eastern side of Shannon Island. This
+island was distinctly seen, and seemed to be quite surrounded with ice;
+though to the south side, and also to the east side of Pendulum Island,
+there was open water, only covered with drift-ice. The pack-ice to the
+east was very broad, stretching at least twelve nautical miles from
+the coast, but farther southward it made a considerable curve inward
+towards the land, and lay so dense that in 74°, and even more south
+than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span> that, we should with difficulty have been able to penetrate it.</p>
+
+<p>Along the coast to the south there was also much open water, and
+Gael Hamkes Bay appeared to be free from ice. For the next few days
+scientific work kept us fully employed. In the evening Dr. Pansch
+unfortunately shot himself in the arm while following a reindeer, and
+had to be brought on board; we found, however, that the ball had only
+gone through the muscles, and that no bone had been injured; but it
+healed very slowly, and through the whole of the autumn, Dr. Pansch
+could take but a small share in all our scientific explorations.</p>
+
+<p>On the 6th it was slightly foggy, with a south wind; but the sun seemed
+bright and clear, and the work suffered no interruption. Lieutenant
+Payer roamed all over the island, topographically interested as well as
+bent upon hunting.</p>
+
+<p>We found many traces of reindeer, and saw a few without being fortunate
+enough to kill one, though we killed several walrus which stopped in
+our neighbourhood. The fat of these creatures was mostly thrown into
+the coal bunk for fuel, in case the Hansa did not join us again.</p>
+
+<p>On the 7th we made a boat excursion to the mainland, and took the
+opportunity of sounding the straits. In the middle, at eighty-one
+fathoms, it was muddy; towards Sabine Island and Cape Wynn the bottom
+was analogous to the character of the land. Indeed the soundings
+along the coast, as far as the Germania sailed, were uniform, and the
+character of the depths mostly indicated by the land. Shallows in any
+way dangerous did not exist along the coast that we sailed by.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span></p>
+
+<p>On our boat excursion we had a combat with a large walrus and her young
+one; the young one was killed easily, but the other escaped severely
+wounded. We found it in the afternoon dead upon a floe, and brought it
+on board.</p>
+
+<p>We climbed Cape Wynn, which was rather steep but not very high, and
+found on the top a plateau of several miles in circumference, quite
+free from snow, but scantily covered with vegetation. Farther inland we
+came to a valley watered by a glacier stream, and showing moss, grass,
+and many green spots. Behind this valley the mountains rose to a height
+of more than 1850 feet, but, even here, the summits were perfectly free
+from snow, which was only collected in the rifts. The snow-beds and the
+falls of snow in East Greenland are much smaller than we expected to
+find, and even less than in Spitzbergen, which lies so near.</p>
+
+<p>During our whole stay on this coast we only once, and that in June
+1870, saw the land with an entire covering of snow.</p>
+
+<p>The view to the north was bright and clear; in 75½° N. Lat. we could
+distinctly see the land edged with firm ice. Over the sea lay a thick
+fog, which spread over all by degrees. We went hunting for a reindeer,
+but missed it, and had to content ourselves with a white hare. We
+returned on board in the evening. In the night ice formed in the bay,
+which is also the case in summer during a calm with a clear sky, though
+about the beginning of August it disappears in the daytime. The heavy
+ice in the straits had these last few days drifted out to sea, and the
+land ice was more broken up.</p>
+
+<p>Thanks to the continued fine weather, work was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span> finished by the 10th
+of August; the instruments brought on board, and all made ready to
+sail, which we did after piling a heap of stones on the eastern point
+of land, and, about 100 to 104 feet to the north of it, depositing a
+document containing the chief dates of our voyage.</p>
+
+<p>At six on the following morning we weighed anchor, and steered out of
+the harbour, with a light southerly breeze, northwards. We passed the
+low cliff at eight, and steamed along the firm ice, which at first
+stretched to the north and afterwards to the north-east.</p>
+
+<p>The land ice bordered the whole south side of Shannon Island, and also
+Cape Philip Broke, which was its most south-easterly point. We doubled
+it at noon, and found to the east of the island along the land ice,
+which has here an average breadth of from three to four nautical miles
+from the coast, a channel of from two to three miles broad, though in
+some places so blocked with ice that only by the help of both steam and
+sail could we make way through. The border of the land ice was pretty
+high; in many places the blocks lay piled up from forty to fifty feet
+high.</p>
+
+<p>At three p.m. we broke through a chain of brashes, on the other side of
+which was again open water. Here the pack-ice had retreated quite four
+nautical miles. As the wind was still south, steam was let off, and we
+set all sail to save our coals.</p>
+
+<p>At six p.m. we sighted more ice to the north, which seemed very thick.
+The wind shifted to the west and a dense fog came up, hiding everything
+from our sight; we therefore halted until the morning.</p>
+
+<p>We were now upon the most northerly point reached by Captain Clavering,
+but still Shannon Island stretched further to the north—much further
+than is given on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span> old charts. At first we thought there must be
+some mistake in the log’s reckoning, so, as a calm had fallen we
+lay-to. Our observations gave 75° 17′ Lat., and 17° 22′ W. Long. from
+Greenwich by our chronometer, the stand-point of which was on Sabine
+Island. Later on we ascertained that the position of the north-east
+cape of the island was 75° 26′ N. Lat., and 18° 0′ W. Long.</p>
+
+<p>The correctness of our reckoning we proved beyond a doubt, and we were
+therefore obliged to conclude that it was impossible for Clavering to
+have reached the spot indicated by Dr. Petermann on the chart at 75°
+14′ N.W. of the frozen bay, and that most likely the whole boat journey
+rested upon some misunderstanding; and later, upon going through
+Sabine’s and Clavering’s original reports, we found that this supposed
+journey had never actually taken place.</p>
+
+<p>We stayed by the ice all that day (12th August), partly to take more
+observations, and partly because there was so much ice in the north
+which could only be penetrated by a favourable wind or steam.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon the current set the ice strong to the south, at a
+speed of one and a quarter nautical miles an hour in a perfect calm;
+but from four to ten p.m. it stopped completely, when it began to drift
+again. It seemed, therefore, as if there was ebb and flood, but that
+the current to the south decidedly prevailed.<a id="FNanchor_43" href="#Footnote_43" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> And with all our late
+observations we could not prove a decided ebb and flood, although the
+tidal wave could regularly be seen along the coast.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span></p>
+
+<p>In an ice-covered sea it is especially difficult to arrive at any right
+conclusion with regard to the currents. Those on the coast of East
+Greenland we most carefully noticed. Putting the experience of both
+ships together, and that of the floe on which the crew of the Hansa
+passed the winter, the following remarks are probably correct.</p>
+
+<p>Along the outer border of the ice, and among the drift-ice even as far
+as the fields themselves, which extend a long way within the barrier,
+there exists between the latitudes 76° and 72° a south-westerly
+current, the average speed of which is from eight to ten nautical miles
+in twenty-four hours. The direction taken by this current greatly
+depends upon the prevailing winds, and therefore often turns the
+foremost portion of the drift considerably to the east or west.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately under the coast, according to our observations, a southerly
+motion of both ice and water is not to be denied, but it is far
+weaker than that on the outer border; and in summer, when south winds
+prevail, it stops altogether, so that at times the ice fields are
+stationary, or only move up and down. In winter the drifting is much
+more considerable, owing to the prevailing north winds and storms.
+Regular ebb and tidal currents the Germania did not meet with in the
+latitudes through which she passed, but only a rising and falling
+of the water. In the autumn it seems certain that there is always
+a setting of the heavy pack-ice to the coast, and what is termed
+land-water disappears more and more; indeed, the question as regards
+the continuation of this land-water along the coast the whole of the
+summer cannot be entertained for a moment; its appearance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span> depends more
+upon the formation of the coast, the prevailing winds, and other local
+influences, than on the running off of melted water.</p>
+
+<p>The ice in its drift southwards had turned somewhat to the east, thus
+leaving more and more open water behind it to the north.</p>
+
+<p>We therefore set sail on the 13th of August, and steered, with a light
+south wind, along the border of the firm land ice without meeting with
+any great difficulties. A fog bank rose in the south, which soon spread
+over Shannon, and the channel which we were following northward was
+becoming narrower and narrower; to the east lay boundless fields thick
+together, and to the north we soon saw more firm ice, so as the evening
+drew on, we lay-to.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 14th the atmosphere was quite clear, and we saw
+with dismay that our further advance northward had come to a sudden
+halt.</p>
+
+<p>Some nautical miles ahead of us lay a monster ice field, stretching
+eastward as far as the eye could see, and apparently joining the land
+ice in the west. Far, far to the north-east behind the fields there
+seemed to be, judging from a small dark spot in the heavens, more
+water; further advance, however, was not possible until the field was
+set in motion and separated from the land ice.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was fine and clear; we therefore took some observations,
+which gave the latitude 75° 30′ 5″ and 17° 30′ W. Long.; the
+declination of the compass, taking the mean of several azimuths, 45°
+24′ W.</p>
+
+<p>At night there was mostly a calm, with bright weather. To the north
+and north-west there was a very strong refraction, which showed us
+that unless a steady wind<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[286]</span> set the sluggish masses in motion, further
+advance to the north would be amongst the impossibilities.</p>
+
+<p>We were all of opinion that in order to avoid the dangerous pressure of
+the ice fields, we should withdraw at once to the south side of Shannon
+Island, investigate it scientifically, and from the hills watch for a
+favourable opportunity of advancing.</p>
+
+<p>As a light breeze from the north-west sprang up on the morning of the
+15th, we set sail to carry out our plan; but in order to be sure that
+there was no opening to the north, we sailed along the northern border
+of the ice as far as the closely-packed end in the east, but without
+finding a way through.<a id="FNanchor_44" href="#Footnote_44" class="fnanchor">[43]</a></p>
+
+<p>At about ten p.m. we were once more to the east of the island, and
+the mean height of the firm ice above the water was from two to five
+feet, and large blocks of from thirty to forty feet were piled upon the
+shore in all directions—proof of the enormous force of the pressure
+of the fields in their revolving motion to the south. Our strait was
+very narrow in many places, and we sailed round Cape<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span> Philip Broke
+at half-past eleven a.m. on the 16th of August, and anchored on the
+south side in six fathoms of water, between some stranded blocks of
+ice. Everything was at once prepared for the land expedition, and the
+captain and Lieutenant Payer started first to reconnoitre.</p>
+
+<p>We found the remains of some Esquimaux summer-huts on the shore, with
+a great deal of moss and weeds. We climbed a height of about 230 feet,
+and were busy fixing a point for observation and building a cairn,
+when in the distance we saw a remarkable-looking animal which could be
+neither bear nor reindeer. Of musk-oxen we never thought for a moment,
+and, when at length we discovered that such was the creature before us,
+we were indeed surprised. It was hunted down, however, and killed by
+Peter Iversen.</p>
+
+<p>We afterwards found that the whole of the coast up to 77° was
+frequented by these ruminating creatures, but that to the south their
+numbers decreased. With the reindeer the opposite seemed to prevail;
+north of 75½° we did not see a single one.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening calm. Ice formed everywhere, but disappeared again upon
+the rising of a southerly breeze.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, on the 17th of August, the land expedition started.
+First-Lieutenant Payer received as helpmates—Mr. Sengstacke, Peter
+Iversen, and Peter Ellinger; and the two astronomers took Theodor
+Klentzer. They were provided with six days’ provisions, and ordered to
+return without delay when they saw the flag wave from the Cape.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER III.<br>
+<span class="subhed">SHANNON ISLAND, WITH THE TELL-PLATTE AND KLEIN-PENDULUM.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Situation, extent, and character of Shannon Island.—Freeden
+Bay.—Exploration and measurement of Shannon Island.—Basaltic
+columns.—Arctic fox.—Esquimaux dwellings.—Unsuspected
+neighbourhood of the Hansa.—Sledge journey of Lieutenant
+Payer to the Tell-Platte.—A polar bear.—Difficulty in
+advancing.—Ascent of the Tell-Platte.—Beautiful prospect
+of the Greenland Coast.—Low temperature.—Return of Dr.
+Börgen’s excursion to Klein-Pendulum.—Esquimaux utensils.—The
+Stufenberg.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Shannon Island, which, according to our reckoning, stretches from 74°
+56′ to 75° 26′ N. Lat., is the lowest of all the large islands within
+the range of our coasting. In the north it reaches the considerable
+height of 305.2 metres, equal to 972 Rhenish feet<a id="FNanchor_45" href="#Footnote_45" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> (barometrical
+measurement). To the east and south, however, the hills scarcely exceed
+500 feet; and the remaining portion of the island rises but a few feet
+above the level of the sea. On the south side is a somewhat important
+creek, which we named Freeden Bay; whilst in the north-east is a still
+deeper Fjord, stretching so far into the interior of the island as
+almost to reach Freeden Bay, so that the island is divided into two
+very unequal parts. Upon the whole, the shores of these bays are very
+low, and, as far<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span> as we can judge, they are seldom free from an icy
+covering; thus one can easily see how difficult it must be to give
+their exact limit. In some neighbourhoods it was no easy task to decide
+whether we were on land or ice.</p>
+
+<p>In summer time the low-lying lands, when not covered with snow, are
+mostly changed into a muddy swamp. The whole island, with the exception
+of the northern part between Cape Copeland and Cape Börgen, where it
+consists of fine syenite, is of volcanic origin. The party to which
+I belonged consisted of three, Dr. Börgen, the sailor Klentzer, and
+myself. Our task was to explore the ground, if possible, completely,
+and also with regard to the possibility of measuring a base in such a
+position as to start from, and, if necessary, triangulate along the
+whole coast. We soon ascertained, however, that it was not possible
+here to get a good triangle for the purpose of measuring.</p>
+
+<p>The 18th of August was at first foggy, but it afterwards cleared, and
+we raised a row of stone heaps on the best spots of ground we could
+find. One of these spots, in the north of the peninsula, is a small
+basaltic dome, and although only 250 Rhenish feet high, gave us a fine
+distant view into the interior of Shannon.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th we had fog for breakfast again, but in the afternoon we
+continued our explorations in a north-easterly direction. Close to
+the coast we were astonished at the sight of a fine group of basaltic
+columns; they were the first we had seen of so regular and distinct a
+form. The largest must have been quite twenty feet high.</p>
+
+<p>From here we marched for an hour and a quarter over to East Shannon.
+The land resembled that by Cape Philip Broke, but the high levels were
+more extensive,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span> and covered with several low, muddy spots. As we were
+taking our measurements we saw a musk-ox, which we shot; we took some
+of the flesh, and reached the tent by half-past three.</p>
+
+<p>The 20th of August found us active on the east coast, in the
+neighbourhood of the basaltic columns.</p>
+
+<p>For a long time we had seen a large bear in the distance, investigating
+the row of hummocks, which showed the edge of the land-ice, but it did
+not seem advisable to follow him. On our return road we saw some snow
+of a pale reddish colour; it seemed to be formed of a mixture of red
+clay or sandstone dust.<a id="FNanchor_46" href="#Footnote_46" class="fnanchor">[45]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the 21st, as we were exploring more to the south and east, we
+came upon a small, deep ravine; it ran close down to the shore, and
+seemed to be a collecting place for the drift-wood. One tree, which
+was certainly broken in many places, was at least forty feet long.
+Under the drift-wood lay the skull of a fine bear, and by the side a
+jaw-bone, which now was likely to grace some European museum. In the
+evening we returned on board, as the next day was Sunday. It was not,
+however, to be a day of rest, as Captain Koldewey had decided upon
+sailing to Cape Desbrowe, from this height to study the state of the
+ice, and look out for the Hansa. We, as well as Lieutenant Payer,
+Sengstacke, and two sailors, were therefore again set on shore and
+left to our fate. The night before, Klentzer, who had slept alone in
+the tent, had suffered from the intrusion of a fox; it had fled in to
+him, and not until after several vain attempts to kill his guest with a
+bayonet did the creature seek safety in flight.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span></p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we took a pleasant walk along the west coast, and
+discovered a number of “Tent-rings,” or circles, and other traces of
+inhabitants long since disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23rd of August a cold wind blew, with wet fog, covering
+everything with rime. The fox visited us again, and again escaped from
+our attempt at murder. We passed our time in fetching drift-wood from
+the east coast, whilst Payer conveyed a basaltic column from the north
+end of the peninsula to our anchor-ground.</p>
+
+<p>Upon continuing our work on the south end of the peninsula on the 24th,
+we found everywhere traces of very old Esquimaux huts and graves. The
+huts were not the usual underground winter-dwellings, but were built of
+stones on the flat earth, a block of rock being taken as the back wall.
+The largest of these peculiar dwellings was ten feet in diameter and
+six feet in height.</p>
+
+<p>In the night Payer, Sengstacke, and two sailors went to south-west
+Shannon (Tellplatte), and the next morning nothing was to be seen
+either of them or the Germania. Now we know that at this time the Hansa
+lay at no great distance in the ice, and that a part of her gallant
+crew had advanced in the boat to within a short distance of Cape
+Desbrowe.</p>
+
+<p>Close by the west point of Cape Philip Broke lay a strange object on
+the land-ice. The light grey and whitish colour at first made us think
+that it was a bear, but afterwards we found it to be an old walrus; it
+lay close to a hole in the ice. We approached it stealthily, and the
+first shot took effect. It was about ten feet long and nine feet in
+circumference near the fore-fins. We were glad of this capture, as in
+case the voyage should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span> be hindered, we were at least supplied with
+meat and fuel for some weeks.</p>
+
+<p>We now collected our apparatus and brought them down to the Cape,
+together with the tent. At nine p.m. we had the pleasure of seeing
+the little Germania sailing slowly towards us, though still at some
+considerable distance. At midnight it was pretty dark, but we could
+see to read in the tent. At one a.m. I went out; the ship was nearer,
+and a column of smoke showed that she was under steam. I went far out
+on to the ice to speak privately to the captain, but I might have
+saved myself the trouble, for those on shore heard every word of the
+conversation, the air was so still and clear. The ship was worked
+chiefly at low pressure on account of the young ice, although it was
+not more than one-half to three-quarters of an inch thick; but with
+each motion of the ship the ice was pushed layer upon layer, until at
+last she was brought to a stand-still, and only by backing and running
+ahead did they at length reach the anchor-ground. The rest of the day
+was passed in measuring and skinning the walrus. Near the Esquimaux
+huts we saw a block of quartz, two feet and a half in diameter, the
+surface of which was wonderfully worn and polished. Had it been used as
+a sharpening stone, or for what other purpose?</p>
+
+<p>On this day our attention was first drawn to the peculiar unearthly
+moaning and groaning of the ice-floes as they were forced against the
+land by the tide, and as I was coming from the ship over the ice to
+land unarmed, I cannot deny that a feeling of terror seized me, and I
+looked round to see the unknown animal from whence the sound proceeded.
+I afterwards discovered the true cause, however.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[293]</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 27th Payer and his party returned full of the wonders of the
+Tellplatte; their tour had been most satisfactory.</p>
+
+<p>We now held a consultation, and all agreed that for the moment there
+was no prospect of getting further northward; so at four p.m. we
+steamed for Klein-Pendulum, which we reached at half-past eleven p.m.</p>
+
+<p>Since the 12th of August the sun had again risen and set for us, and at
+midnight it was already twilight, so that for the first time for two
+months we could see the bright stars, and at midnight on deck we could
+see to read the smallest print.</p>
+
+<p>These uniform and uneventful days on Shannon Island were useful to us,
+in so far that they showed us the capabilities as well as deficiencies
+in our tents, coverings, cooking apparatus, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>So much for Dr. Copeland and his party. We will now give some account
+of Lieutenant Payer’s first sledge journey to the Tellplatte.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th of August, on the plateau north of Cape Philip Broke, Payer
+had measured a base 1600 fathoms long, and in order to conclude this
+work he on the 25th started on a small sledge journey, accompanied
+by Sengstacke, Ellinger, and Iversen, to the south-west of Shannon,
+called the Tellplatte. They pulled a small sledge, without either tent
+or sleeping-sack, across the monotonous snow-fields of Freeden Bay. A
+layer of fog hung over it only a few fathoms high, disguising the real
+distance from the travellers. Suddenly icebergs emerged like ghosts
+from the surrounding fog, apparently far off, yet close at hand; then
+a yellowish spot began to move, and a bear stood a few steps from
+the sledgedrawers.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span> To halt and fire was the work of a moment, and,
+after a vain attempt to rise again, the bear died at the feet of the
+travellers. Gradually the sun broke through the fog, and the terraces
+of the Tellplatte looked like a violet silhouette.</p>
+
+<p>The further they advanced the more impractible the ice became, being
+perforated by numerous springs. With some trouble they at length
+reached the lowlands to the west of the bay; here the sledge remained
+behind as the land was perfectly free from snow. And after dividing the
+baggage the wanderers continued their ascent, when after fifteen hours’
+march they reached the highest point of the Tellplatte (670 ft. above
+the sea).</p>
+
+<p>“Here on the broad mountain top were masses of rubbish of gneiss
+formation resembling those on Pendulum Island. We were also astonished
+by the sight of a large flat promontory (south of Haystack), which is
+not distinctly marked on Clavering’s charts. The view of the front
+coast of Greenland was full of majestic beauty.”</p>
+
+<p>Brown and blue lines of mountains with their sharp pinnacles rose in
+the warmth of the midnight sun on the other side of a snow desert some
+miles broad, long shadows lying on those parts turned from the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst for six hours Payer was busy with measure and theodolite, his
+companions had discovered a herd of musk-oxen and killed two of them.
+Heavily laden they returned to the sledge at midnight. The sun had
+gone down some hours. The mountain country had taken those fantastic
+hues of deep red and violet, even to the coldest, palest toning of the
+snow; in the zenith shone a faint whitish blue; to the south a lively
+greyish blue; and the newly-risen copper-coloured moon, distorted
+by refraction, shone in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span> every little mirrored surface of the young
+ice. The temperature of the snow had fallen to 20° Fahr., so that
+the travellers in their thin shoes were on the point of freezing. A
+drowsiness crept over them, Cape Philip Broke seemed unattainable;
+at last they reached the place where the dead bear lay, and, after
+thirty-three hours’ absence, Cape Philip Broke (seven German miles). On
+the same day (26th August), the Germania returned from Pendulum Island,
+but only to start again on the 27th for the same place with the whole
+community.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Börgen gives the following description of the excursion to
+Klein-Pendulum, from the 27th to the 31st of August.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst Lieut. Payer surveyed the land and roamed through the island, we
+were chained to the shore by astronomical and magnetic observations.
+But we did not altogether miss interesting things; we were much amused
+by the confidence of the sand-pipers, with their melancholy “tut-tut”
+coming close to us. The ducks, however, were more shy, who with their
+young ones were evidently on an excursion (as they do not nest on
+Pendulum).</p>
+
+<p>Near the place where we had pitched our tent we found some winter huts,
+the digging up of which brought much to light that was useful for our
+collection.</p>
+
+<p>Even Dr. Pansch, whose wound was beginning to heal, would not remain
+inactive, and spent the sunny day in looking for botanical specimens.</p>
+
+<p>The wind was rough, and, though the Stufenberg protected us, on the
+whole, from the north wind, it sometimes rushed down the steep sides
+and slopes like a whirlwind, against which our little tent could make
+no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[296]</span> resistance. We were, therefore, obliged to lay it down, to prevent
+its being torn in pieces; and Pansch, who had to be careful of catching
+cold in his wound, and had lain down to rest, was completely wound up
+in the violently-blowing canvas, much to our amusement and his own
+discomfiture.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on the 31st of August, when our work was finished, we started
+to view the island, making an excursion to ascertain the barometrical
+height of some of the tops. The Stufenberg was our first destination;
+on the top we found a large plateau, narrowing towards the north, and
+also sinking to rise on the other side into a similar though smaller
+plateau, separated from the Stufenberg by a great valley. From this
+second high plateau run several small ridges, which again rise to small
+low summits, leaving valleys between, more or less broad in extent.
+From here we went through the above-mentioned valley, and then over
+the south-easterly declivity of the Stufenberg plateau to the south
+shore, which we reached at two o’clock. The height of the Stufenberg
+was 1512 feet, and that of the highest mountain, 1985 feet. Such was
+the scientific knowledge acquired on this tour. But the kitchen, too,
+profited by this excursion, for we brought home four hares and some
+ducks!</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[297]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.<br>
+<span class="subhed">FURTHER COASTING VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA. 17TH AUGUST TO 13TH SEPTEMBER,
+1869.<a id="FNanchor_47" href="#Footnote_47" class="fnanchor">[46]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">The Germania anchored on the south side of the island of
+Klein-Pendulum.—Still open water to the south.—Return
+to Shannon Island.—Arrival near Cape Philip Broke.—The
+Germania anchors near the Stufenberg.—Journey to
+Sabine Island.—Fruitless attempt to cruise towards the
+north.—Storm.—The Germania steers southwards.—Ascent of
+3000 feet up the Sattelberg by First Lieutenant Payer, Dr.
+Copeland, and P. Ellinger.—Glimpse into the interior of the
+Fjord from the top of the Sattelberg.—Tracks of Lemmings
+on the top.—Remains of an Esquimaux summer hut.—Return to
+winter-quarters under Sabine Island.—Results obtained.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>We now resume our narrative on board the Germania, August 17. The
+following day a fresh southerly breeze was blowing, raising the sea
+and bringing up much ice, compelling us to veer away the cable, and
+keep everything in readiness for a move in case of need. The ice,
+which, on account of the roughness of the sea, was constantly breaking
+away from the pack, kept coming up from the west. At times we were so
+completely surrounded by it, that we had to hoist up the boats, and
+were so prevented from landing. The sky, during this southerly wind,
+was obscured by continual fogs—the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[298]</span> average temperature being not many
+degrees above freezing point.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the 19th of August the wind dropped, the ice opened
+again, and we were soon lying in open water, and able to keep up
+communication with the shore.</p>
+
+<p>We made observations on the current the next day, and sent men on shore
+to hunt for food; they returned with some musk-oxen which they had
+killed. Payer also came on board.</p>
+
+<p>August 21. Weather warm and foggy. Snowfall in the afternoon with
+a light wind from the north-east, in consequence of which we were
+prevented from continuing our labours on shore. Meanwhile we made
+preparations for further excursions on the island, and for a stay of
+some days for our scientific staff, as our captain intended to sail
+westward in order to ascertain the condition of the land-ice, and gain
+a general view of the ice from the high mountains on Klein-Pendulum.
+There was no prospect as yet of getting further north from the eastward
+of Shannon. The passage had, in fact, become narrowed; and from the
+east the pack had begun to settle nearer in to shore.</p>
+
+<p>After landing the scientific staff with the necessary crew, and a boat
+in case of necessity, at noon on the 22nd, with a light north wind,
+we steered westward along the solid land-ice. Somewhat broken in the
+edges, the ice here slightly changed its aspect and showed signs of
+breaking-up. On the eastern side of Klein-Pendulum the ice remained
+solidly firm, and it was only on the southern side that we found open
+water for anchorage.</p>
+
+<p>Next day a fresh breeze sprang up from the north, with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span> a cloudy sky.
+The weather being in other respects fair, the captain ascended a
+mountain, 1990 feet high, in order to survey the ice; but so thick a
+fog prevailed that he was compelled to return on board without having
+accomplished his object. The next day the sky cleared, although a fresh
+breeze still blew from the north, and it became possible to obtain
+a clear view from the top of the mountain, which, however, was not
+encouraging for further progress northwards. The line of the land-ice
+was still almost the same, and what lay between Shannon Island and the
+mainland was quite solid. We could see Haystack and the high promontory
+to the west quite distinctly, but entirely surrounded with solid ice.
+North and west of Shannon Island immense fields were visible, mostly
+close packed; and even the open space between it and the mainland,
+which a week ago was quite clear, was now filled with large fields.
+Only in the south-east, and along the coast towards the south, was
+open water still to be descried. Eastwards, Gael Hamkes Bay appeared
+to be open, but close round Cape James and the adjacent island the ice
+was again thick. There was, consequently, little hope this year of
+penetrating further north. Besides, Captain Koldewey hardly expected
+that it would be possible for the Hansa to reach the coast, as the pack
+had apparently again become closer, and the open water under the coast
+had become narrower.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon the weather cleared, enabling us to make correct
+surveys and soundings of the coast-line. The soundings gave us a
+fine and safe anchorage under the lofty mountain, afterwards named
+Stufenberg. The bottom shelved gradually, and it became possible to
+anchor in a soft clay in four fathoms close under the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span> mountain. The
+night was calm, and during it a quantity of new ice formed round us;
+which, however, broke up under the influence of a stiff southerly
+breeze. We availed ourselves of this breeze to return to Shannon
+Island, as we feared being cut off it by the approaching pack. About
+half-past four p.m. we sailed round the northern cape of the island,
+steering along the land-ice, as we could not take the direct route to
+Cape Philip Broke on account of the large fields. Towards six p.m. we
+came upon new ice, which during the late calm had formed between the
+fields. This we broke through easily at first, but presently stood
+still, owing to the breeze dying out. We broke through this ice, and
+got out hawsers to tow the ship through, as at a mile to the N.W. open
+water was in sight. The fields, however, united, and so piled up the
+ice that it became impossible to advance. We had no resource left,
+therefore, but to get up steam, which enabled us to break through. At
+times it was so thick that we had to charge it repeatedly with full
+steam, in order to force a passage. At length, at twelve (midnight),
+we anchored under Cape Philip Broke. The night was calm, and the sky
+cloudless. The temperature fell to 22° Fahr., and new ice rapidly
+formed. Dr. Copeland, who had observed our progress from land, informed
+us that Payer was still on the southern hill some miles away from
+anchorage. Their tents, however, had been pitched quite close to us.</p>
+
+<p>The captain requested Dr. Copeland to hoist a flag as a signal for
+Lieut. Payer to return on board immediately. The anchorage by Cape
+Philip Broke appeared to be no longer tenable, as large fields
+continued drifting towards us from the east, filling up the bay between
+Shannon and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[301]</span> Pendulum islands. According to our astronomers, who had
+been constantly watching the ice from the eastern hill, there remained
+only one open channel to the east of Shannon. As far as they could
+judge, the ice to the north had not begun to move yet. Under these
+circumstances, our chances of further explorations to the north this
+autumn became fainter and fainter.</p>
+
+<p>On the return of Lieutenant Payer and his men on the morning of the
+29th, the captain summoned a council of the scientific staff and
+officers, to obtain their opinions as to the feasibility of penetrating
+further. Taking into consideration all circumstances, the utter
+improbability of our being able to advance further north, the danger
+of our present anchorage, and the non-arrival of the Hansa, which we
+had now given up altogether, it was unanimously resolved, as being most
+in accordance with the object of the Expedition; to return to the safe
+anchorage on the south side of Klein-Pendulum, there to complete the
+survey of the surrounding country; and, if possible, to undertake a
+sledge-expedition to the mainland.</p>
+
+<p>We had on that island the additional advantage of the mountain, whence
+we were enabled to observe the movements of the ice, and at once avail
+ourselves of any favourable opportunity. We still hoped that the
+autumnal storms would bring about a general breaking-up.</p>
+
+<p>August 27, at four p.m., we raised anchor and steered southwards. The
+sea was now everywhere frozen over, and mostly covered with inch-ice,
+through which we could only force a passage with full steam power up.
+We found open water only near Bass Rock, and could sail freely and
+quickly round the island. We<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[302]</span> anchored at eleven p.m. under Stufenberg,
+in four fathoms.</p>
+
+<p>On the following days the weather was fine and clear, with light north
+and west winds, so that the labours of the astronomers in determining
+our locality, as well as observations regarding the magnetic influences
+and current, together with Lieutenant Payer’s work, made good and rapid
+progress. Dr. Pansch, whose arm was now almost well, had resumed his
+active labours in the cause of science, and examined the remains of
+the Esquimaux huts which were discovered under the Stufenberg, and
+formed botanical collections. The island, partly barren, and clothed
+with scanty vegetation, was explored in all directions. Whenever time
+allowed we went out shooting, but, with the exception of a few Arctic
+hares, brought back no game. The position of the ice was constantly
+watched from the mountains, and on the 13th of August Payer reported
+that, upon the whole, its position had not altered; also that the young
+ice between Shannon and Pendulum Islands had not disappeared; and that
+that lying to the north-east of Shannon was quite firm.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, when the work on Klein-Pendulum was finished, we sailed on
+the 1st of September to the small harbour on the south side of Sabine
+Island, in order to start on a lengthy excursion to the mainland. The
+nights were now growing darker and darker, the formation of the young
+ice proceeded rapidly, so much so that nothing but a strong wind could
+break it. The weather, which during the whole of our stay on the coast
+had been particularly tranquil and fine, began now to be unsettled and
+stormy. On the night of the 2nd of September<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span> the first violent storm
+burst from the N.N.W., accompanied by a heavy fall of snow. The wind
+came down in gusts from the mountains, and we had to let go our second
+anchor and pay out much cable, which kept us secure. As on this coast
+all violent winds blow from the north, anchorage is very insecure on
+the north side, particularly in spring-time, when, on account of the
+stronger motion of the ice, it is extremely dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on the morning of the 7th, the air cleared and a fresh wind
+blew from the north. From the deck we could see the heavy pack-ice
+drifting rapidly past our harbour southwards; the young ice, too, was
+loosened and parted from the land, so that we were once more in open
+water. Looking from the mountain, the pack-ice in the east formed a
+complete block; only about our island and to the south of the island of
+Shannon was there open water. On the eastern side from Klein-Pendulum,
+too, a large field had been pushed forward and pressed close to the
+land, so that even the road to Shannon was no longer open. In the
+night another heavy storm burst, which obliged us to let go the
+second anchor. The weather-side of the ship, and the bow, even under
+the bowsprit, were covered over with a thick coating of ice from the
+washing of the water. At midnight, under a clear sky, a calm of several
+hours’ duration fell suddenly; but in the morning the wind again blew
+from the north, sometimes assuming the force of a storm, as we could
+see from the quick motion of the heavy pieces of ice. We hoped that
+this continuous north wind would sweep a clear path for us, and thus
+be favourable to a last attempt at gaining the north. Accordingly, at
+nine a.m., although it was still blowing freshly, we set sail,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[304]</span> tacking
+northwards towards Klein-Pendulum. However, we were not able to go far,
+for we were met by a violent downfall of snow; the wind once more rose
+to a storm, and we were again compelled to anchor under the protection
+of Klein-Pendulum. In the afternoon another heavy storm broke with
+hurricane gusts from the mountains, the air being thick with snow; so
+that we had to ride by both anchors, and were unable to do any sort of
+work in the open air.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning (the 10th of September), as the wind was still blowing
+hard, Captain Koldewey climbed the highest summit of the island, in
+order to obtain a good look-out over the ice. The air was clear; not
+a bit of fog, so that on all sides we had a wide prospect, which,
+unfortunately, showed us that any advance with the ship at this time
+of the year was impossible. The ice between Shannon and the mainland,
+and further along the coast towards the north, lay unchangeably solid,
+exactly the same as on our arrival; and the land-ice in the creek
+between Shannon and Pendulum islands was only slightly broken. The
+pack-ice to the east was completely closed up, having large fields
+which were pressed close to the land under Klein-Pendulum, shutting
+up the access to the Shannon, under which island, however, there was
+an open channel. To the east of Shannon Island a small strip of water
+showed itself now and then, but, most probably, the large fields were
+revolving in the immediate neighbourhood of the land-ice, preventing
+any continued sailing, even had we been mad enough to venture between
+these grinding masses. Along the coast to the south appeared a small
+strip of open water, and the captain decided upon availing himself of
+the north wind for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[305]</span> exploring this in the interests of the undertaking.
+On the 10th of September we therefore weighed anchor at one p.m., and
+steered southwards with a moderate north breeze. A field lay between
+Walrus and Sabine Island; but close under the latter, we found in four
+fathoms of water a small passage to the south. We could no longer sail
+round Walrus Island, which lay to the east.</p>
+
+<p>At six p.m. we found ourselves over against a creek, at the egress of a
+valley, through which ran a stream from the glaciers, which we called
+“Königin-Augusta Thal.”<a id="FNanchor_48" href="#Footnote_48" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> As this creek was very shallow, we called
+it “Flache Bay.” We dropped anchor here, as southwards so much ice was
+pushed close to the coast that it was impossible to sail round Cape
+Borlase Warren. The glacier stream had accumulated such an amount of
+rubbish, that even at the mouth with a boat one could not land, and at
+low water the greater part of the bay was dry. Only under the steep
+mountains to the south could we land at all.</p>
+
+<p>The night was fine and starlight, the temperature 29.5° Fahr. The
+astronomers availed themselves of this opportunity to determine the
+exact Polar latitude with the sextant, which gave the lat. at 74° 24′
+3″. The next morning First Lieutenant Payer and Dr. Copeland climbed
+the “Sattelberg,” more than 3700 feet high, one of the loftiest peaks
+of this peninsula. Payer reported the following:—</p>
+
+<p>“Our intention of inspecting the interior of ‘Gael Hamkes Bay,’ and
+the branches of the Fjord to westward, had led us towards Flache Bay.
+From thence a two-hours’ boat journey to Cape Borlase Warren convinced
+us that it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[306]</span> was impossible to penetrate into the interior by means of
+the ship, on account of the numerous icebergs and floes which were
+stranded at the entrance. There remained, therefore, but one means to
+gain our end—the climbing of a high overlooking mountain. The only one
+we could see fit for this purpose was the Sattelberg, 3700 feet high,
+which formed the highest point to the north of Gael Hamkes Bay, and was
+easily reached from our anchorage by going through ‘Königin-Augusta
+Thal.’</p>
+
+<p>“Thus on the 11th of September, at eight a.m., Payer and Ellinger left
+the ship, provided with theodolite and barometer, and wandered up the
+dreary, gently-rising valley. Here Dr. Copeland joined them. A tiring,
+monotonous road led us up and down the mountains and slopes covered
+with scanty vegetation, through rough water-rifts, and, lastly, over
+a small, steep glacier on to the Dolerite-crest of the Sattelberg. A
+violent north wind made the moderate cold of 14° Fahr. particularly
+painful to the travellers during their stay on the summit, especially
+whilst carrying on their work.</p>
+
+<p>“The view westward was unimpeded, and afforded a most interesting
+glimpse of the interior of the Greenland Fjord, the exploration of
+which, by means of extensive sledge-journeys (for which the time of
+year was most favourable), seemed desirable. The opposite view, too, of
+a broad, smooth, icy sea losing itself in the distance, and the wild,
+imposing, rocky land to the west and north was, in a purely landscape
+point of view, most beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>“And where was the so-called coast water? It was a small channel close
+to the south of Pendulum Island.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3061_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3061_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm center">London. Sampson Low. Marston, Low &amp; Searle. 188 Fleet Street.</p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">QUEEN AUGUSTA VALLEY.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>“Here we observed, as upon all mountains previously, and upon others
+since, the freedom from snow even on <span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span>the high-lying lands, and
+the fact that the snow-fields seemed exclusively to form a distant
+background to the glaciers; drifts, and the more or less accidental
+gatherings in clefts, and so forth, of course excepted.</p>
+
+<p>“We left the top after an hour’s observation, and made some coffee on
+our way down in a rift in the glacier, returning to the ship by a most
+glorious aurora, after four hours and a half absence.”</p>
+
+<p>So far First Lieutenant Payer’s account. At the same time a
+boat-journey along the coast towards the south was carried out and the
+coast surveyed. It is here particularly free from shallows, and the
+depth so regular that the lead was a sure guide for the approach of
+the ship to land. The mountains on the shore are from 450 to 550 feet
+high, and mostly rise rather abruptly. On a tongue of land between
+Flache Bay and Cape Borlase Warren we found the remains of some
+Esquimaux huts, and near them some graves, which we inspected, and
+found all sorts of curious vessels. The graves were old and decayed,
+and probably no living Esquimaux, had been on the spot for a very
+long time, Gael Hamkes Bay was so filled with ice, and the blocks and
+floes so heaped up at the cape, that even with the boat we could not
+get round, and therefore could not reach Clavering Island. It was
+often necessary to drag the boat for some nautical miles over the
+ice-blocks—a gigantic Work, bearing no proportion to the small results
+to be expected. We therefore contented ourselves with inspecting the
+immediate neighbourhood more closely, especially the graves. Vegetation
+was more plentiful than on Pendulum Island; even some grass plats were
+to be found. We also saw numerous traces of the reindeer in a valley
+running westward<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[308]</span> from the cape, and gradually rising to the mountain
+chain, though we only saw one single living specimen, which, although
+eagerly hunted, escaped our shots. We returned late in the evening to
+the Germania.</p>
+
+<p>The report regarding the ice of First Lieutenant Payer, who returned
+with Dr. Copeland about eleven p.m., was as unfavourable as the
+description of the above excursion. The pack-ice, as far as one could
+see to the eastward, was completely blocked. Northwards from the
+Shannon nothing but ice to be seen. It was clear to all that the time
+for ship cruising was over, and that we must think of placing our
+vessel in some secure winter harbour before we were cut off from her,
+and thus be exposed to certain destruction. The only fit harbour, as
+already mentioned, was under Sabine Island, the one in which we had
+anchored for the first time on the 5th of August. Although the captain
+would willingly have wintered more northwards, about Shannon Island,
+in order to hold a more advanced position, no more secure position
+offered itself here; and upon the security of the ship, particularly
+as the Hansa had failed in reaching the coast, hung the whole success
+of the expedition. It may here be mentioned that in Arctic regions,
+when wintering upon a coast, which is not always free from ice even in
+summer, if circumstances, or, above all, choice permit, the harbour
+should be chosen opening to the south, having land to the north; also
+a creek into which falls a glacier stream, as such a harbour is, in
+the course of the summer, most likely to become free from ice. In any
+case it must be protected from the heavy pack-ice. The small bay on
+the south-east side of Sabine Island combined all these advantages in
+a high degree, but, on account of its little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[309]</span> depth, is only safe for
+ships drawing less than ten feet of water, and which can lie inside the
+straight line which unites the two land points in the east and west.</p>
+
+<p>As our ship could effect nothing further in a southerly direction, and
+our anchorage was now insecure from the pressure of the ice and the
+violent north wind, we steamed out at half-past ten a.m. on the 13th
+of September, after having made another geological excursion to Sabine
+Island, to the harbour which, for ten months, was to be our home.</p>
+
+<p>In looking back upon the summer’s enterprise and summing up the
+results, we had cause, in spite of all failures and disappointed hopes,
+to be thankful for what we had attained. If we had not succeeded in
+advancing northwards, and our separation from the Hansa, and her
+continued non-appearance, limited our investigations in a great
+measure, the fact remained (the condition <i>sine quâ non</i> of the
+whole undertaking) that we had reached the coast with the Germania
+quite safely, and had already made some important discoveries, which,
+the winter happily over, might result in a rich store of knowledge,
+however unfavourable the condition of the ice might be. We found
+ourselves in a field (which, scientifically, was almost unknown), on a
+coast respecting which the most unreliable and contradictory reports
+obtained, and nearly all our discoveries and observations seemed new,
+thus affording important contributions to the knowledge of the Arctic
+region. Events proved that Captain Koldewey was right in choosing the
+coast of East Greenland for the basis of Arctic exploration, instead
+of Dr. Petermann’s suggestion of advancing between Nova-Zembla and
+Spitzbergen to the North Pole. Captain Koldewey<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span> was convinced, and is
+now more so than ever, that in that quarter any considerable advance
+by ship to the north would be as impossible as from the north of
+Spitzbergen. “Under the most favourable circumstances,” so says Captain
+Koldewey, “we could only make some explorations in Nova-Zembla, and
+take some hydrographical observations which, however unimportant they
+might be, would bear no proportion to the cost of the undertaking;
+whilst on the coast of East Greenland, if even the conjecture of
+open coast water to the north should not prove true, we might, after
+breaking through the icy belt, make some important and satisfactory
+discoveries.”</p>
+
+<p>That the Hansa had not been able to reach the coast was unfortunate,
+as it weakened our community; but from that circumstance we found
+ourselves deprived of a larger supply of coal so necessary for our
+boilers; and not knowing how much fuel we might want during the winter,
+we were obliged to use the utmost economy, and only employ steam power
+on urgent occasions. Had the Hansa been with us, nothing would have
+prevented us, after the first failure, in the attempt to reach the
+north in the middle of August, from steaming at once southward with
+the Germania. Our sister ship could have remained at Shannon Island.
+Eight days would have sufficed us to explore the whole land of Gael
+Hamkes Bay, which at this time was free from ice, and then return to
+the north; whilst, in the meantime, the Hansa would have begun and
+finished the exploration of Shannon Island. The coming spring proved
+still more what a pity it was that the Hansa did not reach the coast.
+We were really too feeble, even with our greatest exertions,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[311]</span> to master
+the amount of work. Captain Koldewey is convinced that we might have
+advanced two degrees further north had he had sufficient men. It is,
+therefore, unjust to draw the conclusion (as has been done in many
+parts by inland people) from the events which have taken place, that
+taking the Hansa as a sister ship was a mistake. To maintain that,
+because, the Hansa was lost in the ice, she was therefore superfluous,
+is scarcely a logical conclusion.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[312]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER V.<br>
+<span class="subhed">JOURNEY BY SLEDGE TO THE FLIGELY FJORD. DISCOVERY OF COAL LAYERS ON
+KUHN ISLAND. 14TH TO 21ST SEPT., 1869.<a id="FNanchor_49" href="#Footnote_49" class="fnanchor">[48]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Our outfittings.—Departure on 14th September.—First night
+under tents.—Passage of Clavering Straits in sledges.—Cape
+Hamburg.—A Polar bear shot.—The Fligely Fjord.—Ascent of a
+mountain-peak 4050 feet high.—The prospect therefrom.—The
+Fligely Fjord connected with Ardencaple Bay.—Scientific
+labours of Lieutenant Payer.—Return to the tent.—An Arctic
+night.—Back to the ship.—Discovery of coal strata on Kuhn
+Island by Lieutenant Payer.—Arrival at the ship on 21st
+September.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The temperature was now settled at one degree below freezing point,
+and although in the neighbourhood of Pendulum Island the young ice
+was destroyed by the wind as soon as formed, the ground on land was
+frozen hard, and the watery pools on the firm land-ice were already
+covered with a coating of ice, so thick as to be able to bear the
+weight of sledges and men. Now was the fittest time for our proposed
+sledge-journey to the west; and on the same day, the 13th, all
+necessary preparations were made. It was the first of any importance
+that we had undertaken, and though, from works on the Arctic regions,
+we understood something of the ways and means of carrying it out,
+none of us had any practical experience, so that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[313]</span> our arrangements
+eventually proved to be somewhat deficient. As, on our departure from
+home, the prevailing idea was that the greatest and most substantial
+discoveries must be made with the ship, our instructions spoke only of
+probable glacier excursions to the interior of the country, and not of
+extensive sledge journeys along the coast and the banks of the Fjord.
+At the outfitting in Bremen there was, therefore, no provision made for
+these, and our sledge apparatus (tents, coverings, and so on) was not
+quite what it ought to have been.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3130_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3130_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">TENT FOR SLEDGE-JOURNEYING.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>During the summer we had learnt from experience that the round tent
+with a pole in the centre, which we had brought from Bremen, was not
+practically useful; it was, therefore, changed into a four-cornered
+one, and provided with a roof. At each corner a pole was placed,
+perpendicularly, and fastened by ropes, held and propped up with
+stones. In stretching the roof also ropes had to be made fast to the
+ground. This tent answered our purpose<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[314]</span> on the whole, and proved
+serviceable. The supports were, however, weak and unsatisfactory, and
+constantly requiring alteration and strengthening to enable it to
+bear up against the storms. This took place in the beginning of the
+winter. Our further apparatus consisted of necessary woollen coverings
+(fur we had not yet taken to), provisions for eight days, and of
+instruments—theodolite, barometer, and thermometer.</p>
+
+<p>We began our journey on the afternoon of the 14th of September, in
+fine quiet weather, and under a cloudless sky. The night previous,
+in a temperature of 23° Fahr., a thin ice-crust had formed from our
+harbour over the whole of Clavering Straits to the old land-ice, the
+extent of which was two nautical miles from the south-west cape of the
+island, and therefore four nautical miles from our harbour, through
+which we had to force our way with much trouble, with the boats laden
+with the sledges and baggage on to the old ice. After three hours’ work
+we reached it, and now the sledge journey may be said to have begun.
+The sledges, which carried about six cwt., were drawn by six men, the
+Captain, First Lieutenant Payer, Tramnitz, Kranschner, Klentzer, and
+Ellinger, travelling with comparative ease over the almost snowless
+ice; but a short distance past the south-west cape of the island, the
+road became rough and uneven from the half-melted and again frozen
+snow-drifts, so that it required all our strength to get along.
+In order not to tire the men too much on the first day, we halted
+about eight p.m. on a tongue of land running from the Kronenberg of
+Sabine Island, and raised our tent. Not being yet practised in such
+travelling, and in all the management of our hands, so necessary in
+raising tents and cooking food, we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[315]</span> were an hour and a half before we
+could roll ourselves in our blankets and go to rest. The narrow and
+cramped position in which we lay in the small tent (nine feet long and
+six feet broad) on the hard frozen ground, prevented us from enjoying
+a good night’s rest, although we were quite warm enough; and we had
+plenty of time in which to consider how far superior a soft bed was.
+Although bears were numerous round about us, and we met some almost
+every day, we had not as yet set any watch during the night, and
+had only taken a loaded gun and revolver into the tent with us as a
+precaution. The time for rest on a sledge-journey, if one wishes to
+press forward, is necessarily of the shortest, and setting watch would,
+from the unavoidable loss of rest, be very prejudicial, or cause us to
+lose many hours of very precious time. One must also consider the wary
+nature of bears, and that they would always have to destroy the tent
+before getting at us. But, indeed, in all our sledge-journeys during
+sleeping time we were spared the visits of such combative companions.
+Either the bears preferred making no further acquaintance with us, or
+they came at a time when we could best greet them with a shot.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, the 15th, we started at a quarter to six, after a
+good breakfast, taking a north-westerly direction obliquely across
+Clavering Straits, in order to reach the mainland; the temperature
+was 20.5° Fahr., the weather fine, the wind quiet, and we brought the
+sledge along over the hard snow with comparative ease. We reached
+Cape Berlin after a six hours’ journey. After a mid-day rest we
+pulled on through snow deserts of ever-increasing depth towards the
+mainland. This surrounded a broad bay stretching to the south, and was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[316]</span>
+intersected by a Fjord of, as yet, undecided extent to the west of our
+road. The exploration of this Fjord was our aim.</p>
+
+<p>We thought from the imposing walls of gneiss at its point of debouche
+(Cape Hamburg) that we should be able to reach it in a few hours, far
+under-rating the actual distance, which is often the case in Arctic
+regions. In the bright clear air, the land looked so near that we
+fancied we could see every crack in the rocks, and even every stone,
+distinctly enough to grasp it with the hand; but the further we walked,
+the further the land seemed to recede, and as the journey in the not
+quite frozen snow was trying enough without this, there was a great
+amount of ill-humour over the constant disappointment. But everything
+has an end, and at last it was real land, and a real mountain-chain
+which lay before us. In Arctic regions one is so subject to illusions,
+that you cannot swear to having land before you, until your feet are
+actually upon it. This happened with us in the evening at dusk, and we
+pitched our tent on a smooth spot. This second night’s rest was better
+than the first, and after such a trying day’s work we slept the sleep
+of the just.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th of September, as we were at breakfast, a white fox rushed
+almost into the midst of us, wishing to share it, but he paid for his
+boldness with his life.</p>
+
+<p>We also saw a bear in the distance; he did not venture near, however,
+but shuffled, first, comfortably along to our encampment, which we had
+long since left. A saucepan cover, which we afterwards missed, served
+him as a ball; and as Bruin found nothing to eat, he followed on our
+track, and, as he drew nearer, had to pay for his murderous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[317]</span> intentions
+by a well-aimed shot from Mr. Tramnitz. We took one of his hams with
+us as an addition to our stock of provisions; the beautiful skin, and
+the remainder of the flesh we left for the ravens and the foxes. At
+the mouth of the Fjord, where Cape Hamburg bends round to the west, we
+halted for our mid-day meal, as well as for the purpose of making some
+necessary measurements.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime we had discovered, to our great surprise, that the
+Fligely Fjord was covered with an uninterrupted coating of ice. Sorry
+we were that we had brought no skates, by which our journey would
+have been much hastened. We pushed ourselves along the ice with the
+alpenstocks; the sledge followed easily, almost by the influence of the
+wind. The ice in the Fjord<a id="FNanchor_50" href="#Footnote_50" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>, evidently only formed in September, was
+at first from three to four inches thick, then three-quarters of an
+inch, so that our steps were accompanied by an uninterrupted cracking.
+Large cracks formed, and we kept near the land, so that in case of
+falling in we might find a bottom.</p>
+
+<p>With one thrust of the iron point of the alpenstock, we broke the icy
+covering, and drank eagerly of the up-springing water. This, being
+immediately under the ice, was but little salt, and quite drinkable.</p>
+
+<p>The shore of the Fjord was surrounded by beautiful mountain-chains—to
+the north gneiss—and granite cliffs, at the foot of which were slopes
+covered with soft grassy vegetation; to the south rose ice-crowned
+rocks, the highest of which (we will call it Domberg) was certainly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[318]</span>
+more than 3900 feet high. Reindeer came from all sides of the strand
+in a state of wonder; but this time we withstood the desire to hunt,
+in order to lose no time. Only once was the journey interrupted by a
+slight topographical incident. A bear which came near us, we frightened
+away by shouting, after which, Klentzer fell through the ice; he was
+pulled out, and had to cross a long broad breach. The ice had now
+become so thin that it began to break dangerously; we might, therefore,
+think ourselves fortunate, when in the darkness, after a seven hours’
+march of eighteen (English) miles, and after crossing a small field
+of snow, we arrived safely at the west side of the Fjord, which bent
+sharply to the north. It suddenly struck us that the sound in which
+we had landed was connected with the Ardencaple Inlet; we therefore
+altered our original plan of ascending the Domberg, and followed the
+Fjord northwards in order to climb one of those overlooking summits
+from which we might expect to solve this question. On the morning of
+the 17th of September, therefore (28° Fahr.), the sledge was left in
+the care of Tramnitz (who this day killed a reindeer), Kranschner, and
+Klentzer, whilst Captain Koldewey, Ellinger, and Payer hurried along
+for two hours in a northerly direction over the smooth ice, carefully
+jumping over the fragments broken by the tide, till at length they
+stood on the land at the foot of the mountain they wished to climb.</p>
+
+<p>Everywhere we were met by chilly glacier-streams, buried deep in a
+sedimentary crystalline formation. Our way led off over a precipitous
+declivity. Above a lovely valley containing a lake, we went, step by
+step, over large boulders; then over a small ice-field to the summit,
+which had taken us six hours and a half to reach. Nowhere<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[319]</span> was the
+boundary of vegetable life so marked as in our own Alps, which may
+arise from the fact that, owing to the length of the Arctic day,
+elevation above the sea less sensibly affects vegetation than with us.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the top was beyond description beautiful. It stretched
+over Hochstetter’s Foreland and Shannon, as far as Pendulum Island. We
+were at once convinced of the impregnable solidity of the pack-ice, as
+well as that the Fligely Fjord (as we had conjectured) did really open
+into Ardencaple Bay. Only to the west the horizon was entirely closed
+by massive peaks about twenty miles off.</p>
+
+<p>Several readings of the quicksilver barometer gave the height of our
+mountain as a little over 4050 feet. After three hours’ measuring,
+Payer had finished with the panorama, by which time the temperature of
+31.8° Fahr. was most unpleasant.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime Captain Koldewey had gone back in a westerly direction
+on an excursion to the shoulders of a mountain, upon which he thus
+remarks in his day-book:—The mountain was nearly the highest in the
+neighbourhood, and as the weather was particularly fine and clear, we
+had a fine wide prospect. I went some nautical miles further westward
+along the ridge, in order to gain a better glimpse of the interior.
+Towards the south-west, the mountain fell precipitously in a deep
+ravine; beyond this the land was undulatory, and the outer horizon
+seemed bounded by a mountain chain running north and south. Towards
+the north was a long valley stretching east and west, and also to the
+south lay a deep basin with rugged sides. This basin was particularly
+free from snow, only the highest peaks being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[320]</span> partly covered. Large
+glaciers were nowhere to be seen. Towards the east only, over Shannon,
+and Hochstetter’s Foreland, were some connected tracts of ice, but no
+trace of open water. Besides this, the ice-fields to the north-east of
+Shannon were not yet in motion, and the faint hope of advancing further
+north with the ship in the spring (which until now Captain Koldewey
+had nourished), disappeared at this sight. Wintering on Sabine Island
+had now become a certainty, and we retraced our way over ice and naked
+rocks. In vain did we try, in the now increasing darkness, to find a
+weapon which we had left behind, and just as fruitless was the search
+for a draught in the chilly glacier streams with which to quench our
+burning thirst. As we could no longer feel our way over the smooth
+ice along the strand, we ran quickly on. It was a glorious night; a
+perfect calm and a cloudless sky. A whitish northern light, which we
+saw to the south of us, together with the lights of the stars, shed a
+feeble glimmer over the icy landscape round us, and the ice-crowned
+tops of the surrounding mountains were distinctly to be seen. Nowhere
+does Nature show herself with greater power and expression than in the
+Arctic regions; and on such a September night as this it was truly
+majestic.</p>
+
+<p>About midnight we reached the tent. The men were already wrapped in
+their blankets, and the fire made of drift-wood and reindeer fat was
+nearly out. It was again brought to a flame, and soon we had a basin of
+strong reindeer soup, and some delicious steaks before us, which did
+us good. With a pipe we enjoyed the beauty of the night a little time
+longer, then wrapped ourselves in our blankets for a good sleep.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[321]</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 18th of September (20° Fahr.) a grey foggy curtain hung over
+Fligely Fjord. Tramnitz and Ellinger went to look for the missing
+weapon; others collected drift-wood on the shore, whilst Payer
+completed the materials for the chart, and the geological collection.</p>
+
+<p>At four p.m. we started on our return to the ship, as unfortunately our
+provisions forbade a longer stay. Further investigation of so important
+a discovery as Ardencaple Inlet, and that of the Fjord opening into it,
+could have been easily carried on under any other circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>The already-mentioned broad fissure in the road over the Fjord, brought
+us this time into an unpleasant position, for Klentzer broke through
+with the sledge. He succeeded in working himself up on to a stronger
+piece of ice; but as the water soaked through the baggage, the sledge
+sunk deeper and deeper. As it was impossible to pull it out on to the
+thin ice without unloading, we cut the ropes and brought the goods,
+one by one, on to the ice, and lastly the sledge also. Both of the
+barometers fell victims to this mishap, and from the theodolite-case
+the water spurted as if it had been touched by Moses’ wand.</p>
+
+<p>We were now forced to encamp at once on the shore, in order to dry our
+blankets, &amp;c., by a fire of Andromeda.<a id="FNanchor_51" href="#Footnote_51" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> That this was not quite a
+success may be believed, at a temperature of 18° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>The saturated and frozen tent we could with difficulty raise at all;
+the folds were like lead. We suffered not a little from the cold that
+night; the weather at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[322]</span> same time becoming damp and inclement.
+The sky was cloudy, and in the afternoon there was a fall of snow,
+though without the customary accompaniment of wind. Meteorological
+observations on board indicated at the same time a storm from the
+north, which broke over Sabine Island and its neighbourhood on the
+afternoon of the 18th and the night of the 19th. The interior of the
+Fjord is evidently not so exposed to the devastation of the northern
+storms, which sweep the outer coast for nine months in the year, as it
+is to the deep loose snow which in the spring effectually prevents any
+advance into it. Nearly everywhere on the outer coast the snow was hard
+and firm.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 19th a herd of musk-oxen approached to within
+about sixty paces of us, while some reindeer came very near us. We
+left them unharmed however, as we still had a store of that killed
+two days before. As we were starting on our way (14° Fahr.), Payer
+noticed a stone of strikingly light colour, which, on the south side
+of Kuhn Island, formed solid overhanging crystals, to at least 2000
+feet high. He therefore left the sledge, and to his great astonishment
+stumbled upon an enormous layer of coal, alternating with sandstone;
+this was most likely Lias coal, from three-quarters to eighteen inches
+thick. The fact that Payer was not armed, and that therefore—as he
+was heavily laden with coal and other minerals—he must be careful in
+this neighbourhood so overrun with bears, and had better return to the
+sledge, prevented any further investigation for the moment, of this
+interesting geological discovery.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we reached Cape Hamburg (eight miles and a half). The
+following morning (20th September,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[323]</span> 5° Fahr.) Payer, Tramnitz, and
+Ellinger, took the three hours’ walk back to the coal strata, to find,
+if possible, any petrifactions and imbedded substances. Their trouble
+was richly rewarded.</p>
+
+<p>The discovery of a coal layer is, for the future investigation of
+Greenland, of the greatest importance, as, of all the necessaries of
+life, want of fuel is that which would most prevent any long stay
+inland.</p>
+
+<p>Another interesting discovery was the trace of former glaciers. There
+were smooth rocks, 170 feet above the sea, and that in a valley
+perfectly free from ice,—central and lateral moraines, with the sharp,
+characteristic, longitudinal ridge,—and the mounds of débris and
+peculiar stone-dust. Unfortunately, in sledge journeys, hunger is a
+permanent discomfort; and although we ate plentifully and often of the
+reindeer, we were never thoroughly satisfied, in consequence of the
+difficulty of respiration.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st of September we pulled, in 18° Fahr. and through violently
+drifting snow, over the snowy desert to Cape Berlin. After a short
+mid-day rest, and three more hours of travelling, we neared the
+northern entrance of Falsche Bay, where we passed the night.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day (21st September) we went on foot over the young
+ice, to our winter quarters on board ship, having travelled 133½ miles
+in all.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[324]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.<br>
+<span class="subhed">PREPARATIONS FOR WINTERING. 13TH SEPTEMBER TO 7TH NOVEMBER, 1869.<a id="FNanchor_52" href="#Footnote_52" class="fnanchor">[51]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Hunting.—Supplying the ship with water for the
+winter.—Forewarnings of winter.—Frost.—Habits of birds
+of passage.—Return of the discoverers of the Fligely
+Fjord.—Laying up of the ship for the winter.—State of
+the Germania’s winter harbour.—Need of a good harbour for
+Arctic wintering.—Heaving up anchor.—Laying up of the
+ship.—Evening on the ice.—Skating.—Securing the hull
+against the winter cold.—Wall of ice-blocks round the
+ship.—Fine autumnal weather.—Storm.—Sun disappears the 6th
+November.—Vegetation.—Scurvy-grass.—Visit from a bear.—A
+bear-hunter.—A black fox.—Dredging.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The Germania, as we have seen, had anchored once more under Sabine
+Island on the 13th of September; having thus performed a voyage of five
+weeks and a half; a space of time in which much might be done with
+steam, if only one had open water; instead of which we could only run
+along the coast by small stretches, as both in the north and the south,
+and also in the creeks to westward, solid masses of ice met the ship,
+which it was impossible to overcome. Attempts had therefore to be made
+to explore the land, independently of the ship. Accordingly, on the
+following day, the 14th, a journey was undertaken to Falsche Bay.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[325]</span></p>
+
+<p>Wintering under Sabine Island in the small “Germania Harbour,” where
+on the 5th of August we had first cast anchor, now seemed an absolute
+necessity; and Mr. Sengstacke was commissioned by the captain, in his
+absence to make all necessary arrangements.</p>
+
+<p>It was a fine, clear spring day, the 14th of September, at two p.m.,
+when, with high hopes, we saw the well-packed boat take its way through
+the young ice and disappear behind the tongue of land. The day before,
+Dr. Copeland and Sengstacke had gone hunting, and had fired at a
+reindeer, when the practised eye of the former saw a dark moving mass
+high on the Hasenberg, which could be nothing else than musk-oxen. This
+discovery set all in joyful excitement. We now knew that this creature
+visited our island, and we therefore had the prospect of successfully
+hunting some, which would form a treasured store of meat for the
+winter. As it was already late, the hunt had to be put off until the
+morning. Fortunately, the next day was just as fine and cloudless, and
+Dr. Copeland started early, accompanied by Louis Wagner, the stoker.
+Let us hear the events of this day:—</p>
+
+<p>“On the morning of the 13th of September, 1869, Sengstacke and I,
+accompanied by the stoker, started to follow the track of a reindeer
+which had been wounded the evening before. The weather was clear
+and fine; and as we had the whole day before us, we hoped certainly
+to find the object of our search,—provided, of course, that it had
+not left the island. After half an hour’s walking, we came to the
+plateau between Hasenberg and Germaniaberg, and soon found traces of
+the wounded creature. We followed them for some time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[326]</span> when we became
+suddenly aware of the very desirable presence of three musk-oxen—two
+bulls and a cow—which were quietly grazing at a little distance. Until
+now we had not met with any of these animals on Pendulum Island; and
+our delight at the sight of these wild, interesting creatures may be
+imagined. Sengstacke and Wagner made a circuit towards the interior, to
+prevent them from flying to the hills in the interior of the island,
+whilst I remained on the coast, protected from their sight by a small
+hilly ridge running parallel with the shore, Sengstacke was the first
+to get within shooting distance, when, all at once, the oxen began
+to snort, which with them is a sign either of fear or of anger; and
+all three started at full speed straight to the Hasenberg, when they
+rapidly disappeared in the ravine at its foot. We now separated further
+still from one another, as we hoped to find them again in one of the
+deep ravines, when we suddenly saw them once more, hurrying up a steep
+declivity of loose stones. It was really a fine sight to see them
+leaping with such astonishing agility, where man would have had great
+trouble in even setting his foot. They kept close to each other, as
+all animals do that go in herds. Had they done otherwise, those far
+behind would have been under a perfect hail of stones from those which,
+in their eagerness, had hurried forward. This was the last we saw of
+them that day; for, although we scoured the whole of the southern slope
+of the Hasenberg, making a circuit into the interior, the creatures
+remained invisible. Chiefly from the wish to bag something, we shot
+some hares; but our whole thoughts were on the musk-oxen. As we
+returned I saw, as I had done in the morning, some eider-drakes. I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">[327]</span>
+mention this fact because we had seen a great number of ducks since we
+had landed, but only <i>mothers</i> with their little ones, tending
+them until they were able to undertake the long journey to the south.</p>
+
+<p>“The next day Mr. Sengstacke, as acting officer of the ship, could
+not, unfortunately, accompany us. Wagner and I, therefore, started
+alone in quest of the oxen. As we neared the Hasenberg, we saw our
+friends, by the help of a pocket telescope, peacefully resting on the
+snow, at a height of from 1050 to 1200 feet above us, on the side of
+the mountain looking landwards. We climbed as quickly as possible, and
+after about an hour’s time found ourselves near them. But although we
+tried on every side to get close to them, we could not succeed without
+their seeing us. At last we were obliged to agree to try with less
+circumspection. At first they seemed quite contented with their work
+of chewing, not dreaming of any threatened danger, but suddenly, with
+a bound, they were off. I was so beyond myself at this mishap, that,
+from sheer desperation, I sent some shots after them, of course without
+any result. If their great speed and agility had astonished us the day
+before, our wonder was greater to-day, as we saw them bound up the
+acclivity, which was as steep as basalt fragments could possibly be. At
+the utmost, they were not more than three or four minutes reaching the
+height of 450 feet, which the top of the mountain appeared to reach.
+We followed slowly after them, and really the ascent was so difficult
+that it took us quite half an hour to do what the oxen had done in a
+few minutes. We found a slight trace of blood, thereby concluding that
+the chance shot had not been without its effect. Upon reaching the
+summit, we saw<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[328]</span> that they had climbed to a steep snow furrow on the
+outer slope of the roof-shaped mountain. As we knew that by following
+them we should only hasten their flight, we sat down and took some
+refreshment. It did not escape us, however, that the oxen had ceased
+to mount, and had withdrawn to the north-west side of the mountain.
+Here the ground was very uneven; deep rifts, alternating with stony
+hills. We now distinctly saw that one of the bulls was less active than
+the other, and as the unharmed one seemed resolved not to leave his
+comrade, they went but slowly forward. We waited until they were out of
+our sight behind the hills, and then followed as quickly as the stony
+nature of the ground permitted. We now passed quickly, but cautiously,
+one hilly range after another, and, at every open spot where the oxen
+might perceive us, we looked carefully to see if they were not in the
+next hollow. Thus we had passed several hills, and had begun to fear
+that our prey had escaped us again, when at that moment we espied the
+back of one. It was grazing, and coming straight towards us. I fell
+back at once, and, after drawing Wagner’s attention, dropped upon hands
+and knees, and thus approached the unsuspecting beast. Before they
+suspected anything, we were alongside of all three. Wagner’s Austrian
+breech-loader and my double-barrelled gun made it possible to give them
+the three shots in as many seconds; one of the oxen was quite incapable
+of combat. Wagner looked after the other, with which it seemed that he
+would have enough to do. The poor terror-stricken cow tried to blunder
+down the slope, and I ran after her. In two or three minutes I stood
+but a few steps from her and fired, aiming at the head. It was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">[329]</span> the
+first and last time that I tried this shot upon a musk ox. I struck
+the cow exactly in the middle of the forehead, about an inch above the
+eyes; she scarcely seemed to shrink, and I was glad to be able to give
+her another in the shoulder immediately, as she seemed inclined to try
+what she could do with her short, crooked horns in self-defence. Wagner
+in the meantime had finished his part of the work, so that, after
+cutting their throats, we rolled them some hundred feet down the deep,
+steep slope, where they rested upon a comparatively smooth snow-heap.
+Then followed the less agreeable but necessary work of skinning them.
+Wagner was willing enough and strong enough; but as this sort of work
+was new to him, the greater part of course fell to my share. As the
+animals were so near the ship, I much wished to so skin them as to put
+them in our collection; and at last, after the lapse of two hours,
+we had the pleasure of taking off the skin of the third ox, with its
+head and feet attached. Whilst thus busied, we kept a sharp look-out
+for less agreeable guests; for a bear, attracted by the smell of the
+dead animals, might visit us; but at first nothing happened. Excited
+by the happy results of our hunt, we were about returning, when Wagner
+suddenly saw a huge bear very near to us. He was a magnificent fellow.
+Standing on the back of the neighbouring height, he twisted his long
+neck from right to left, sniffing the air with every sign of caution
+and mistrust; he showed to advantage as he stood with his powerful
+broad breast presented to us; his huge paws firm upon the ground, or
+sometimes raised when he stood on his hind feet to sniff the air more
+effectually. As soon as we saw him, we ducked between the stones, and
+examined whether<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[330]</span> we had cartridges enough. I being more practised in
+shooting than Wagner, took his breech-loader, which for this case was
+the best weapon. Carefully did I pick the spot in the silvery shining
+fur of Bruin where the heart ought to be, and fired. With a fearful
+howl he disappeared behind the hill. We followed him as fast as our
+legs could carry us, and found the huge beast about twenty paces from
+the spot where he had been standing mortally wounded. We gave him an
+extra shot to make sure, and then opened the jugular vein. I think
+this was the largest specimen of <i>Ursus maritimus</i> that we saw
+during our stay in the Arctic regions. He was very fat, proving that
+though his teeth were gone, the experience of age had taught him how to
+supply all necessaries. Our united exertions could not turn him round,
+so, for the present, we had to leave him. Our comrades on board were
+delighted at the prospect of being so richly provided with fresh meat;
+and on the following morning, at half-past two, we started with seven
+men, two boats, and a light sledge. At two p.m. we returned laden with
+the carcases, heads, and skins of our three oxen, and the head and
+skin of the great bear, besides some foxes which we surprised at our
+meat store. One of them seemed fond of liver, and was making off with
+a large piece when a shot brought him down. At dinner, when the liver
+came on the table, some shot in the piece which had fallen to my lot,
+showed that I had shared the unlucky fox’s last morsel. Our careful
+sailors were of opinion that no gift of God’s should be lost, so they
+had brought it away and found it useful for the cabin table.” So far
+Dr. Copeland’s account.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3302_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3302_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_331"><i>Page 331.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE GERMANIA IN THE ICE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Frost had now set in, and we could not tell how soon <span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[331]</span>real winter,
+with cold, storm, and snow, would overtake us. Our first duty was the
+ship’s safety and preparations for passing the winter.</p>
+
+<p>Orders were then given that all the ship’s crew should once more enjoy
+the sweet water from the neighbouring brook, as we wished to avoid as
+long as possible the use of melted snow. In spite of the difficulty
+of fetching water in the boat, we had just finished in time; as on
+the 17th the earth was frozen on the surface, and the streams showed
+but little water, and in the course of a day or two ceased running
+altogether.</p>
+
+<p>And now ever more menacingly did the harbinger of winter warn us.
+Boreas, with his sudden and violent rising, and the heavy squalls
+under Pendulum Island, which we soon learnt to know, burst no fewer
+than three times over the ship this week. On the 16th the storm was so
+strong that we had to drop the second anchor.</p>
+
+<p>The next day was again a fine, still autumn day. On the 18th the almost
+inch-thick covering of ice burst into several floes, so that we were
+able to tow our ship further into the harbour.</p>
+
+<p>That evening and night we had another storm from the north, which,
+however, did no harm to the ship, but broke up all the ice afresh and
+drifted it away, so that the Germania was once more free in the water;
+but it was for the last time.</p>
+
+<p>The coming Sunday broke still and clear, though the temperature even at
+noon was not above 19° Fahr. rising to 46°. A new icy covering formed,
+increasing in thickness so quickly that in the night of the 20th and
+21st, the rising storm in the creek, with its hurricane gusts, could
+not break it. All possibility of going out with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">[332]</span> boat was now quite
+at an end. It was on this Sunday (19th), the same day on which the
+Hansa, on the floe 120 miles further south, found that she was frozen
+in; but what a difference in circumstances there and here!</p>
+
+<p>It was interesting for us at this time to observe the life and ways of
+some of those birds of passage whose existence depends upon open water.
+There were from thirteen to fifteen eider-ducks in the harbour, four
+of which were old ones, swimming in two groups. During the following
+days we had frequent opportunities, in the open fissures and holes at
+the entrance of the creek, particularly near the peninsula, where the
+observatory stood, to watch the short flights of these birds. They also
+flew round the ship and the bay, and then disappeared. On the 20th
+these water-holes had disappeared, and with them the ducks. Only one
+young thing was left behind, which timidly waddled by on the slippery
+ice, and dead-tired was at last shot out of pity. When later, from the
+cutting through of the ship on the 24th, a channel of open water was
+formed, ducks again appeared, and several were killed. The attempt to
+keep one alive on board did not, however, succeed.</p>
+
+<p>As in the course of the 21st the weather cleared, and our comrades
+had been absent seven days, we began to be uneasy about them; we
+anticipated all sorts of mishaps, and finally determined to go and meet
+them the next day with some provisions.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22nd, therefore, Mr. Sengstacke started early with two men, to
+beat the south side of the island. For the first time they succeeded in
+getting to land on foot across the ice, it having frozen so sharply the
+last few nights. Our uneasiness was fortunately quite unnecessary.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">[333]</span> The
+travellers returned to the island in good spirits, and Mr. Sengstacke
+and his companions had the unexpected good fortune to kill two reindeer.</p>
+
+<p>Thus we were all together once more, and were able seriously to set
+to work upon our winter preparations. It was indeed high time. The
+thermometer at night was already below 14° Fahr., and we could expect
+nothing but an increase of cold.</p>
+
+<p>The first requisite was to find a secure position for the ship. It
+ought not to come in contact with drifting ice, but remain quietly
+on the spot where it was frozen in, until summer should free it from
+its icy fetters. The experience of former Arctic explorers had proved
+that the most serious dangers and difficulties might arise under
+unfavourable circumstances. The eminent Arctic explorer Kane was in
+his first voyage blocked in the pack-ice for nearly nine months; and
+on the second he was obliged to leave the frozen-in brig in Rensselaer
+harbour, and make a most difficult journey with the boats.</p>
+
+<p>For ourselves, according to human calculations, we might look forward
+to future events without any misgiving. Our ship had run at the right
+time into the finest winter harbour that we could desire. It seemed as
+if nature had made it for the Germania.</p>
+
+<p>Almost circular, with a peculiarly narrow entrance, it lay on the
+south-east point of the island. To the north, the far-spreading land
+and a mountain chain of more than 900 feet high formed a continual
+protection against the devastating northern storms, as well as from
+the rushing current of the pack-ice; and Walrus Island, lying to the
+south-east, protected the harbour from the strong pressing and pushing
+of the ice, which, drifting by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">[334]</span> sea-breeze or the currents against
+the neighbouring open coast, was sometimes followed by frightful
+results.</p>
+
+<p>This creek was named “Germania Harbour.” Koldewey would willingly have
+wintered farther north, in order to have a more advanced starting-point
+for the sledge journeys in the spring, but no safer harbour or
+anchorage existed under Shannon Island or Klein-Pendulum; and we had
+cause to be thankful that we were not obliged to seek shelter farther
+south, somewhere about Gael Hamkes Bay.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th of September, the ship was brought to the chosen spot, 300
+paces from the western point of land. For this purpose we had to cut a
+channel in the now three-inch-thick ice. The cutting of the ice, and
+the song of the sailors as they towed the ship along, sounded cheerful
+on this fine winter morning; and before noon the work was completed.
+The Germania now lay for 290 days condemned to inactivity, with her bow
+N.N.W., in order, as much as possible, to break the force of the storm.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning the command, “Heave anchor!” sounding so peculiar to
+every voyager, was heard for the last time, followed by the regular
+rattling of the windlass. The anchor was stowed away on board, as we
+had no further use for it; and the ship, until it should freeze in
+position, was made fast with ropes to the ice and the neighbouring rock.</p>
+
+<p>She had now to be entirely unfitted, down to the lower masts and the
+shrouds, and everything brought on land that would not be required
+during the winter. Thus, on one side, the ship was disburdened, and on
+the other we gained considerable space both on deck and in the cabin,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">[335]</span>
+which in every respect was, in winter, of the greatest importance.</p>
+
+<p>First, the sails were taken down and rolled together, then the yards
+and the maintopmast, and the sails and all the rigging dismantled. The
+foretopmast we purposely left standing, that we might have a lofty
+point, which, in the course of time, might be useful for observing
+the air-currents and electricity. Then the deck was cleared, and the
+long-boat hoisted from its place. The spare spars and all utensils
+and chests were brought to shore. The same thing was done with all
+provisions which the frost could not destroy, except, of course, what
+we needed for use during the half-year. The two largest boats we laid
+with the yards, &amp;c., on the flat shore at the end of the harbour.
+For the provisions, however, we erected a “depôt,” half way to the
+observatory on the peninsula. On a layer of planks we closely packed
+our chests and vessels, covering them with sails, the edges of which
+were kept down by heavy stones. Thus buried, our belongings seemed able
+to defy both storms and bears. But other things remained to be done.
+One or two men had to help build the stone houses; and the engineer and
+the stoker were busy taking the machinery to pieces. One of these stone
+houses was intended for an observatory. It was built on the corner of
+land lying near to the ship, upon the steep edge of the bank; for the
+other, as a magnetical observatory, a more north-west position seemed
+preferable.</p>
+
+<p>The glorious evenings on the ice during these last September weeks, the
+first of our winter stay, will ever be remembered by all.</p>
+
+<p>Seamen and scientific men worked valiantly in the sweat of their
+faces the whole day long; and when the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">[336]</span> longed-for evening meal was
+over, there remained one or two hours of enjoyment in each other’s
+society, which we generally passed in skating. If the ice had not that
+mirror-face which our own fresh-water lakes present, still it had its
+charms. We then settled down to friendly conversation, as we were
+accustomed to do in our own country, some adepts, others novices, but
+all eager to learn the art.</p>
+
+<p>The fate of the Hansa, too, troubled us, giving us constant room for
+conjecture, though having but little real fear for her. For comforting
+circumstances greatly preponderated, and it would have been unnatural
+with such, if we had not believed in the lucky stars of our comrades
+and their tried captain. Added to this, the present had such constant
+claims upon us that we had no time for moping. To keep out the snow
+and wind, and also to keep in the warmth, a tent of strong sail-cloth
+was stretched over the ship; and finally a three-inch-thick layer of
+moss was spread over the deck. The tent-roof had been prepared before
+our departure, so it had only to be put up. Where it was bolted we
+placed upright supports, so that even there we might walk upright,
+and from these the roof rose almost obliquely to the top, which was
+composed of the mainboom and the mizzenboom placed longitudinally. From
+the foremast it descended to the forestays, and with that down to the
+bows, ending over the stern with a more perpendicular gable.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3361_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3361_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_336"><i>Page 336.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE GERMANIA ON SABINE ISLAND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>As has already been said, this was composed of the strongest
+sail-cloth; and the different parts were so firmly put together that we
+dared to hope it would resist the storm; and the more so as the sharp
+front lay towards <span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">[337]</span>the north wind. At the back, looking towards the
+observatory, was the exit, the only opening in the tent, which could
+be closed by a trap-board. Through this small hole we slipped in and
+out on to some wooden steps by which we reached the ice. The favourable
+weather was also taken advantage of to tar the ship’s sides.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst the outside was thus putting on its winter clothing, many
+alterations were made within. The question here was not only the
+greatest protection from cold, but the making it really habitable and
+home-like. We already found that the warmest half was the fore-cabin,
+just abaft the forecastle, and which was built like a cage in the
+middle of the hold, which surrounded it on all four sides. Hereupon a
+winter cabin for the captain had to be made, as the former, from its
+isolated position in the after-part of the ship, required too much coal
+to warm it.</p>
+
+<p>As it was further desirable, both for work and amusement during the
+long winter, to have more room, the back wall of the cabin was set
+back three quarters of a yard; and on a line with this a new room of
+forty-three inches in depth was built, connected by an opening, but
+with no door. The wooden walls of the cabin were then covered on the
+outside with felt, and on the inside with thick woollen stuff, called
+“coating.” The floor was partly covered with a carpet, and partly
+also with felt and sail-cloth nailed over it. The iron stove had then
+to change its place and go into the farthest corner, from whence it
+could most effectually warm all parts. The ceiling was likewise set up
+inside, and it was intended by-and-by to cover the roof with snow for
+protection. The skylight, too, could not be allowed to remain open;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">[338]</span>
+so we covered it, both out and inside, except in the brightest hours
+of the day; and in order that we might enjoy the light as long as
+possible, the back part of the tent roof on the forepart of the ship
+was always rolled back until the 9th of October, when lamps were burnt
+all day long. Our stove proved excellent. While outside the temperature
+stood at from O° to 4° Fahr., in the cabin we were able to keep up an
+agreeable warmth with about ten pounds of coal.</p>
+
+<p>But, besides the cold, the European wintering in the North has another
+enemy awaiting him, which often brings on illness; this enemy is
+the damp. The wateriness of the atmosphere, rising from all parts,
+penetrates into the rooms, settling naturally upon every relatively
+cold object. These are particularly the walls and ceiling of the cabin.
+And even with continual airing we did not succeed in keeping the damp
+really out of the cabin. In order, therefore, to accomplish this, we
+bored large holes, after Ross’s example, of two inches diameter through
+the deck, turning over it a large hollow iron vessel covered with snow,
+on the very cold inner surface of which the watery contents of the
+atmosphere soon condensed, forming a crust of ice, which was removed
+from time to time. Two of these condensers we placed over the cabin,
+two over the forecastle, and one over the captain’s cabin.</p>
+
+<p>In the forecastle, as may be supposed, no further heating was necessary
+than that caused by the daily cooking in the caboose. Indeed, at
+meal-time the heat was so great that the door had to be opened and the
+condensing holes left uncovered for a long time; by these means the
+damp was more easily got rid of.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">[339]</span></p>
+
+<p>Another contrivance we made for melting the snow. In the chimney of the
+caboose we constructed a receiver, from the bottom of which a pipe ran
+through the deck into a barrel, and all snow thrown into the receiver,
+being melted by the warmth of the chimney, fell into it.</p>
+
+<p>During all these preparations in September and October the days had
+become visibly shorter and the air colder. As, however, it had not
+snowed yet, we agreed for the time to surround the ship with a wall of
+ice-blocks. This we did on the 11th of October. A row of blocks were
+brought in a line from the stern of the ship to the small bridge near
+the observatory leading to the land. They were soon frozen fast, and
+from them a rope was drawn to the land. This erection, already tried
+by Parry, was also intended to show us the way to the ship in gloomy
+and snowy weather. We did not then dream of what great service this
+improvised fence would be to us. Our jolly-boat, too, would more than
+once have been carried away by the storm had it not found a check to
+its wild course.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2nd of November so great a quantity of snow fell that the ship
+was completely enveloped, and also a thick layer over the moss on deck.
+And now, when the winter night should come, we were prepared to receive
+it; but we had to wait some time longer.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of October and some part of November we enjoyed the finest
+autumn weather. We called this, with good reason, <i>late autumn</i>:
+real <i>winter</i> it was not yet to us. “Fine clear weather with
+calm,”—such was the ever-repeated entry in the ship’s log, and we
+had, indeed, “over East Greenland an ever-smiling heaven.” Besides
+the storms of the 19th and 20th, until the 21st of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">[340]</span> September, we had
+three more. On the 7th they blew the fiercest, lasting seventeen hours,
+and bringing much snow with them. These were followed by the others
+on the 13th and 30th. During these storms the roof of the observatory
+was completely torn off, and scattered in portions wide over the ice,
+so that we had to construct a new and stronger one. Fortunately we
+had delayed putting in the instruments, or they would have suffered
+terribly.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of October we began hourly meteorological readings. Besides
+the thermometers hanging in their cases in the observatory, some were
+posted up between the ship and the land, and by them was hoisted a
+black white and red flag, partly for ornament and partly to show the
+direction of the wind. At the stern of the ship an ingenious apparatus
+was erected, by which the rising and falling of the tide could be
+observed. The hole in the ice, through which the pole protruded for
+some distance (“Flutloch”<a id="FNanchor_53" href="#Footnote_53" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> we named it), served the cook for getting
+out the water wanted, and in case of fire was our only means of
+preservation. To keep this free from ice and of uniform dimensions was
+our daily care.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of October the cold increased sensibly, though not so
+much as we expected. Whilst at the end of September the mean daily
+temperature was still 14° Fahr., it fell by the 19th of October, with
+few exceptions, to 12°, which was its minimum, whilst its maximum was
+25°. The temperature of the water under the ice was 34°, and remained
+at that point during the whole winter.</p>
+
+<p>For a long time we noticed a peculiar appearance, which, at the first
+glance, seemed to contradict all known facts. At first the surface of
+the young ice in the harbour<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">[341]</span> was smooth and firm, but soon we found it
+damp and slippery, even at 13° to 18° of cold. We now found that this
+damp coating was strongly saline, and that in places, as, for example,
+quite in the inside of the creek, where an overflow of water from the
+shore, or from cracks or holes, was not to be thought of. Later on,
+after a storm, we found on the surface of the newly-formed ice in front
+of the creek, a white covering of salt; more than this, we all found
+from experience that the snow lying on the ice, even at a great depth,
+was more or less brackish, so that what was wanted for melting had to
+be brought from land. As it is now a known fact that in the freezing
+of sea-water the salt is expelled, and nothing but pure water is found
+in the ice when formed, the appearance of salt on the surface puzzled
+us. The same appearance has already been noticed by Wrangell. It is
+difficult to account for this in any way but the following, viz.,
+that part of the salt water concentrated under the ice being hard to
+freeze, it is by some power or other forced through the pores of the
+ice to the surface. The ice in the harbour itself retained its smooth
+surface and its first appearance, though in front of it the young ice,
+soon after its formation, was repeatedly, and often to a large extent,
+thrown one piece upon another, and that frequently in sharp detached
+corner fragments. To the south of the harbour, and the east of Walrus
+Island, this appearance was most perceptible. The cause of this, as
+well as of the fractures in the ice, is to be found in the crowding
+together of heavy masses, which are set in motion either by the current
+or the wind. In the same way the young crowded ice, when the coast lies
+before it, is pushed on to it; or, if the bank is steep, is crushed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">[342]</span>
+against it and heaped up in wild confusion. This heaping up the bank
+is considerably increased by the ebb-tide, and if the difference only
+amounts to about three feet, still at each sinking of the water the
+ice will break away from the bank, and during the flow press slowly
+but steadily again towards it. In this way, in contrast to the real
+icy covering of the sea, is formed a more or less seamless wall on the
+bank, which is called “ice-foot.” This pushing up of the ice was but
+slight in the harbour, but on the south end of Walrus Island we noticed
+that it rose to the height of 30 feet. Another phenomenon of the moving
+ice was the formation of “hummocks,” which we could not properly
+observe in our neighbourhood, as the ice either lay harmless or was
+torn away by the storm.</p>
+
+<p>All these movements of the ice—the gradual crowding and pressing,
+bending and pushing, the breaking of the masses of snow lying at the
+“ice-foot”—do not go on noiselessly, but are generally accompanied by
+certain sounds, which are called the “voices” of the ice. Now we hear
+a low singing, splashing, or grumbling, alternating with various other
+noises, cracking and snapping; now it sounds irregularly from a great
+distance, like a confusion of human voices, like the changing din of a
+train or a sledging party; or you fancy you hear the steps and voices
+of all sorts of animals. There is a peculiar charm in listening to
+these sounds on a still moonlight night, and often at first we were
+greatly deceived.</p>
+
+<p>All belonging to the real heavy ice masses we watched the whole autumn
+through, at ever-varying distances from the coast. Like a boundless,
+continuous, uneven white mass lay the pack-ice to the north, joining
+the land-ice at Shannon Island, reaching in the south past Gael<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">[343]</span> Hamkes
+Bay to the coast. Seldom did we see even the smallest streak of water;
+and if this did happen, it was soon again covered with ice and snow.
+Moreover, that this pack-ice was no firm connected mass we convinced
+ourselves; and, more than that, we saw distinctly that it slowly but
+steadily drifted southward. In stormy weather (from the north) this
+drift was greatly increased, and the few fields and flakes were more
+separated from one another.</p>
+
+<p>As the winter drew on, and the sun described a smaller and smaller
+circle each day as the cold increased, and snow as well as ice covered
+everything, we were beginning our really winter life, the commencement
+of which we set at the 6th of November, the day the sun disappeared. On
+some excursions in the neighbourhood of Germaniaberg, Hasenberg, Hansa
+Bay, and Walrus Island, the ground being free from snow afforded us
+continual opportunities for botanical research, which were not without
+result.</p>
+
+<p>On a clear sunny day, for instance, the surface of the earth got warm,
+so that by noon, at two inches deep, it was 37° to 39° Fahr.; but the
+night frosts were so sharp, and the temperature of the air so low, that
+by the middle of September the plants had already run their yearly
+course, and were prepared for a nine months’ winter rest. Only two
+there were that differed from the rest by retaining their green leaves
+to deck the earth, boldly facing the cold winter day, and even bearing
+well-preserved blossom; these were the mouse-ear chickweed (<i>Cerastum
+alpinum</i>, L.) and the spoon-wort (<i>Cochlearia fenestrata</i>, R.
+Br.). The first-mentioned resembles our well-known pimpernel, which
+in the autumn distributes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">[344]</span> amongst the dead plants the green-white
+soft leaves of the young shoots, sometimes retaining its blossoms or
+buds quite fresh in spite of the frost, and, later on, when covered
+with snow, still remaining unchanged, and with the beginning of the
+new year, as soon as the warmth has penetrated to its roots, the nine
+months’ interrupted growth continues without any perceptible change in
+the plant. These interesting circumstances, which one would scarcely
+expect to meet in the far North, only happens with the mouse-ear
+chickweed upon favourable spots, as, for instance, on the heights of
+Walrus Island. Much more distinctly and constantly does it appear with
+the spoon-wort. This plant, many species of which grow on our German
+coasts, is pretty general in the far North; and by old seafarers its
+green succulent leaves are eaten as a specific against scurvy. If at
+the present day they have no longer this virtue, as a salad it is both
+a wholesome and agreeable dish. We scarcely made use of it, partly
+because it was scarce and partly because we had an abundant supply of
+preserved vegetables. The spoon-wort we really only found in great
+quantities during the whole of our journeys, in two places at the end
+of the peninsula, where the observatory stood, and on the cliffs of
+Walrus Island. But here it does not seek the damp salt earth as in
+our country, but the highest parts of these places; the thick rosette
+of leaves, either large or small, lying between the stones, often
+inclosing in its centre the differently-developed, thickly-knotted
+buds. Thus, whilst the long outer leaves fall a quick sacrifice to the
+frost, this stout juicy heart braves it valiantly. At a cold of 4° to
+9° Fahr. we saw no effect produced upon it; and, perhaps, this hardy
+growth could stand still more.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">[345]</span></p>
+
+<p>Of annuals which flourish in more temperate climates, the Arctic Flora
+possesses few. We found in reality none, though one might consider
+a sort of saxifrage (<i>Saxifraga flagellaris</i>, Willd.) amongst
+them which propagates itself by layers, and is called by the English
+most appropriately “spider-wort.” This plant, with its strong rosette
+of leaves and coarse, handsome, yellow flowers, we had seen blooming
+in numbers on the low grounds in August. On the reddish stalks, from
+one to three inches long, we saw buds about the size of a small pea,
+generally from three to eight in a circle. These buds form roots at
+their bases, which were even then beginning to sink into the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Now, at the end of September, we found the parent plant dead. It was
+easily pulled from the earth, and even the tendrils broke short off,
+so that the young plant stood alone ready to unfold its blossoms next
+year. In spite of all our searches we found no fruit, not even any
+partly developed. Thus we have an example of a plant being only able to
+propagate itself by its seed in favourable years. The preservation of
+this sort of plant is quite independent of climate. All other plants
+are evergreen shrubs, each individual having the power of ripening seed
+unnecessarily every year. Upon this also we made some observations.</p>
+
+<p>The bilberry (<i>Vaccinium uliginosum</i>, L.), which we found growing
+in low, weak bushes on the eastern declivity of the Hasenberg, and
+lower down near the shore, showed no sign whatever of having bloomed
+the year before. The same was the case with the Andromeda on the
+southern declivity of Germaniaberg; whilst this plant, on the warm
+southern slope of the Hasenberg, not only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">[346]</span> grew strong, but still bore
+the withered blossoms of this and the former year. But we found no
+formation of fruit.</p>
+
+<p>Overtaken by the autumnal frost while in its bloom was another species
+of saxifrage, the <i>Saxifraga hirculus</i> (L.), and often some
+specimens of the yellow-blooming poppy (<i>Papaver nudicaule</i>);
+whilst other plants, as the <i>Silene acaulis</i> (L.), <i>Lychnis
+apetala</i>, mostly <i>Cruciferæ</i>, the <i>Ranunculus</i>,
+<i>Cinquefoil</i>, and the beautiful <i>Polemonium humile</i>, the
+seed of which had long since ripened, and was partly scattered. The
+<i>Polemonium</i> I saw for the first time on the southern declivity
+of the Hasenberg—a strong, large-leaved plant in the otherwise so
+sterile, stony ground. The Cinquefoil grew here to half a foot high.
+Moreover, we found nearly everywhere and on every plant this year’s
+<i>leaves</i>, and very often those of the former year. In September
+this was seen mostly in the willow-leaves (and the catkins), though
+many had been torn away by the storm, and heaped up in the hollows and
+on the slopes. Thus in the snow furrows between the low land and the
+great valley had formed, as far as one could see, a dark horizontal
+line, which we afterwards proved consisted of nothing but dry
+willow-leaves.</p>
+
+<p>We were also able to study the important influence which storms exert
+over the different kinds of vegetation. The storm of the 9th and 10th
+of October afforded us a good opportunity for our observations, which
+were confirmed the following year.</p>
+
+<p>To a much less extent, unfortunately, were we able to learn the flora
+of the sea. We succeeded in pulling up some florideæ at a depth of from
+twenty-six fathoms and five fathoms. It was also striking how, nearly
+everywhere in the neighbourhood of the coast, either under or<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">[347]</span> amongst
+the ice, where pieces of algæ were torn up, they proved to be the
+large yellow-green <i>Laminaria phyllitis</i> and the many-branching,
+greyish-green <i>Desmarestia aculeata</i>, mostly uprooted by the
+walrus, and, when rising to the surface, eventually frozen in.</p>
+
+<p>If the land presented all that was interesting to a botanist, the
+zoologists found it quite the reverse. The lower grade of animal life
+had, since the first regular night-frosts (that is on land, for on
+the banks it froze much sooner), run its course; and of birds, most
+had taken their departure; still, on the 5th of October, we saw two
+snow-buntings. The day after the great storm (October 10th) we killed a
+ptarmigan at the foot of the Hasenberg in full winter feather. Besides
+the ravens, which we saw frequently, we were visited at the end of
+September by some grey-backed sea-mews; three hawks circled one day
+round our ship, and once we saw a white eagle.</p>
+
+<p>The capture of a lemming<a id="FNanchor_54" href="#Footnote_54" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> was interesting to us, one of those
+insignificant rodentia, different species of which are to be found
+in all Arctic countries. On the west coast they are not yet known to
+any extent; from the east coast one of these animals was brought by
+Scoresby. They were lemmings which we saw on the 5th of August while
+digging among the Esquimaux huts, though we did not succeed in killing
+one. This specimen, the first and the last we ever captured, was killed
+on the open field running among the stones. A peculiar creature, in
+its thick, unshaped head and body, without ears or tail,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">[348]</span> it somewhat
+resembles the mole; the short, long-haired feet were armed with strong
+claws, and the thick fur was of a greyish-brown colour.</p>
+
+
+
+<p>Lemmings do not seem rare here. Independently of the masses of filth in
+the entrance of those huts, we had seen earth-holes in several places,
+which must have belonged to them, and particularly in the neighbourhood
+of the harbour and Walrus Island. On the latter, on the freshly-fallen
+snow, in the middle of October were unmistakable tracks of them; and
+that they are often welcome food to the fox we concluded from finding
+the dung of these beasts of prey, consisting of nothing but the hair
+and bones of lemmings. Some tracks, as we have already said, we
+followed from the south corner of the island over to Walrus Island,
+which shows that they move late in the year, and also to some distance.
+Besides these, we saw foxes and reindeer; hunting the latter was all
+the more our particular pleasure, that it promised a further supply of
+fresh meat to our larder. The reindeer, moreover, never appeared in our
+neighbourhood except by ones or twos, were very shy, and were easily
+driven away by nearing them incautiously. We saw no more of musk-oxen;
+on the other hand, on the 20th of October the Germania received the
+first visit from a polar bear.</p>
+
+<p>As Dr. Börgen in the twilight was about reading off the depth by the
+sounding-pole at seven p.m. he suddenly saw a bear about thirty paces
+from him coming slowly along, most likely attracted by the smell of
+a dead reindeer which lay by the ship. Unarmed as he was, he hastily
+returned to the ship, and now, of course, all were on deck with guns
+ready. But the bear, either from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">[349]</span> disturbance or the unusual sight
+of the ship, hesitated somewhat, making a large circle round it,
+often standing still, and tossing its snout in the air. As he seemed
+inclined to go to land, and take no further notice of us, we tried to
+entice him by a savoury-smelling fire of bacon, but in vain. At last,
+after some time, we discovered him again by the observatory, fumbling
+over all sorts of offal placed there as a bait for foxes, ravens, &amp;c.
+Armed with guns and ammunition, we approached him cautiously from two
+sides. The combat began, and, hit in the leg, the bleeding animal
+turned to bolt with mighty strides sheer across the land, but was soon
+forced to rest; our hunters rushed across the stones towards him, and
+once more shots rattled round him. The bear gathered himself up and
+made for the ice, and was given up for lost by his pursuers, when he
+suddenly fell. Hurrah! But it was nine o’clock, and we had no time to
+lose, for at a temperature of 0° Fahr. he must be quickly skinned.
+This not very agreeable work in the cold and twilight was undertaken
+by Messrs. Copeland, Pansch, and Iversen, whilst others went on board
+for a sledge. On this the carcase and the skin were laid. Dr. Pansch,
+however, would not leave the preparation of the bones, which he already
+mentally saw gracing some German museum. His gun lay ready beside him,
+for it was very likely that a second bear, drawn by the smell of flesh,
+might come to help at the work. But nothing happened, and about two
+o’clock the skeleton lay upon the ice.</p>
+
+<p>The beginning of November the first black fox was brought in; it was
+caught in a trap, and was a fine creature. Thus for the zoologists
+there was instructive work enough on land. But the question always
+rose<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">[350]</span> over and over again, Could there be no investigation of the fauna
+of the seas, which, unfortunately, during the voyage had to remain in
+abeyance? Could not something be done now?</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th of October, from the cutting of the ice-blocks, there was
+left a channel, and from it, with the help of the dredging-net, we
+brought up different crustacea, particularly amphipoda, and several
+species of worms. But it was difficult to classify them, as the cold in
+the evening was over 2.5° Fahr., so that the contents of the net froze
+rapidly.</p>
+
+<p>As, on the 25th of October, Captain Koldewey went far to the east
+across the ice to take soundings, he saw that several small, fresh
+cracks had taken place. This seemed a favourable opportunity for
+dredging, promising the greater success, as the depth of the water
+was here twenty-five to twenty-eight fathoms. On two of the following
+days this was carried out; a sledge was laden with the necessary
+articles, and about ten o’clock Dr. Pansch and two men set to work;
+as soon as the thin ice was removed, forming a fresh gap, two holes,
+at appropriate distances from it, were made large enough to let down
+the net and pull it up again. When it reached the ground, the strong
+rope was drawn in the whole length of the gap to the other hole,
+then, running over a smooth stick, was held at the end by four strong
+hands, and slowly in the direction of the gap drawn further on until
+the net appeared at the hole, when it was taken out and emptied on to
+the sledge. Besides different kinds of cockles and shell-fish, crabs
+and worms, there were a great number of sea-urchins (<i>Toxopneuster
+neglectus</i>), and several long-armed ophiuri.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">[351]</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of November we succeeded in dredging once more from the edge
+of the old ice. With that this geological work was also brought to
+an end, as the days were growing darker and shorter, and storms were
+breaking out again. The scrupulous, minute record of meteorological
+calculations from hour to hour (so sneered at by the uninitiated) had
+begun, and was now part of our daily work, and was carried on through
+the whole of the winter without intermission.</p>
+
+<p>Besides this it was desirable (and was also mentioned in the
+instructions) that longer journeys should be taken into the interior.
+These were to have chiefly a geographical aim, and, as far as the
+necessary care for our safety allowed, Koldewey endeavoured to carry
+these out.</p>
+
+<p>In the beginning of October, therefore, a sledge journey was planned,
+first in a westerly direction, in order to ascertain if in the
+interior of Flache Bay there might be a stratum of coal; and then
+southwards towards Cape Wynn to Clavering Island, to find whether the
+Esquimaux settlement seen by Clavering in the year 1823 still existed.
+Preparations were made for this excursion, and on the evening of the
+7th of October the party started (Captain Koldewey, First Lieutenant
+Payer, Dr. Copeland, Peter Ellinger, Peter Iversen, and George
+Herzberg). The air was heavy, but otherwise fine weather, and the
+travellers reached Flache Bay the same day, raising their tent under a
+mountain to the north.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning the weather was gloomy and foggy, with some snow
+falling. We could, therefore, only make a hasty geological excursion to
+the mountain which lay near. We found coal-formation and petrifactions,
+without coming upon real coal. Fog and snow prevented<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">[352]</span> further
+investigation, so that, in a geographical point of view, nothing could
+be done. As the weather was so unfavourable, we thought it better to
+return and husband our strength for another enterprise to the south.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th and 13th violent snow-storms raged, which broke all the
+ice around Cape Wynn. First Lieutenant Payer, however, wished much to
+close the year, if possible, with one good discovery. Thus, on the 27th
+of October, a sledge expedition started under his superintendence with
+the intention of exploring the land to the south of Flache Bay. He
+was accompanied by Dr. Copeland and the sailors Iversen, Wagner, and
+Herzberg. They returned on the 4th of November at half-past nine p.m.
+The account of this journey will be given in the next chapter.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3520_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3520_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ARCTIC FOX AT A TRAP.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">[353]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">RETURN BY SLEDGES TO CLAVERING ISLAND, AND DISCOVERY OF THE
+TIROLER FJORD. 27TH OCTOBER TO 4TH NOVEMBER, 1869.</span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Autumn the best time for sledge excursions.—Skating
+journey.—Dr. Copeland’s bear adventure.—Walrus.—Cape
+Borlase Warren.—East side of Clavering Island.—Tiroler
+Fjord discovered on 29th October.—Splendid Aurora
+Borealis.—Night-quarters on an Arctic journey.—Glaciers.—Rich
+vegetation.—On Clavering Island.—Remarkable glacier
+movement.—Erratic ice-blocks.—The Greenland
+glacier-ice.—Return to quarters of 28th October.—Chased by a
+walrus.—Return to ship on 4th November, 1869.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>No more exciting situation can be imagined than that of an explorer in
+unknown lands, more especially when nature seems to have surrounded
+them with an impenetrable wall, and the earth is as yet untrodden by
+the foot of man. The Arctic pioneers of England and America have, in
+their voyages of discovery, nearly always come in contact with mankind,
+if only those of the lowest grade of civilization. The fast dog-sledges
+of the Esquimaux—this slowly-dying-out people (often most incorrectly
+classed with the Mogul race)—seem to form, in the account of these
+explorers, as great a factotum of life as the art of their conjurers
+or the cleverness of their hunters. For ourselves, this longing for
+companionship was left unsatisfied, for the Esquimaux have either<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">[354]</span>
+entirely deserted the eastern coast of Greenland or have become extinct.</p>
+
+<p>We found that sledge journeys could only be undertaken across the
+frozen sea or the Fjord in the autumn; the temperature ranging at that
+time (in the latitude in which we were) between 21° Fahr. and -11°; the
+weather was now perfectly clear and settled; and, lastly, the Fjords
+were mostly covered with smooth ice. Again, the moderate cold of this
+time of the year, when comparatively light clothing is sufficient, is
+preferable to the sharper cold of the early spring. Plenty of woollen
+clothes can then supply the place of heavy fur. Masks, hoods, and so
+on, are still unnecessary; and, when wanted, leather boots can be
+used instead of those made of sail-cloth. Even snow spectacles are
+not needed in the autumn, except after freshly-fallen snow or under a
+cloudy sky, as the land with its dark masses affords rest enough to the
+eye.</p>
+
+<p>A small tent served us as a sleeping apartment. The <i>general</i>
+sleeping-sack, which in our spring journey to the north we were obliged
+to use, did not yet exist; each had his own peculiar one. A lamp for
+cooking, twelve bottles of spirit as our only fuel, two breech-loaders
+with cartridges, skates, mountain-shoes, an aneroid barometer, a
+theodolite, and mathematical instruments; bacon, salt, suet, pemmican,
+extract of meat, coffee, Cognac, cocoa, and hard bread, formed our
+store,—a load for five men during a nine days’ sledge journey, which
+we (Copeland, Iversen, Herzberg, Wagner, and myself) undertook late in
+the autumn of 1869, for the purpose of investigating the passage from
+Clavering Island to the conjectured opening into Gael Hamkes Bay, to
+the north of the first-named<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">[355]</span> island, and to penetrate further in the
+direction of Jordan Hill.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th of October (the day of our leaving the ship) we had daily
+but four hours’ sun; and in a few days this must entirely disappear
+for three long months. We took a southerly direction, traversing half
+the way on skates, until we reached Cape Wynn, whose dark rocky face
+we could distinguish in the darkest Arctic night. The south wind now
+blew stronger; and as we could not get at our warmer clothing for
+the moment, we suffered so much from the moderate cold of 0° Fahr.,
+that, in the beginning of the journey, some of us were in great danger
+of being frozen to death. A group of dolerite pillars on the shore
+southward from Flache Bay, behind which we sheltered ourselves from the
+icy wind after a run of thirteen nautical miles, formed an acceptable
+place of refuge. We crouched in the rifts of the rocks for protection,
+and then pitched our tent,—no easy matter, owing to the difficulty of
+obtaining the stones with which to make it firm. At four p.m. we lay
+down to rest, in order to begin the journey earlier the next day, and
+by forced marches make up for this day’s loss. Towards morning the wind
+dropped, the icy influence of which could be disagreeably felt through
+the tent.</p>
+
+<p>On the 28th of October, at three a.m., favoured by moonlight and calm,
+we continued our journey (5° Fahr.). After two hours we came upon an
+ever-thickening complication of small icebergs and hummocks, which
+forced us to make several détours; and at last left us but with one
+opening to the east, far from our projected goal.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile, daylight appeared, and climbing an iceberg we surveyed
+the east. Presently we heard Copeland<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">[356]</span> at no great distance exclaim
+in a voice of alarm, “A bear! a bear!” We hurried forward, and found
+our companion behind a group of high ice-cliffs, in such a state
+of excitement as a hand-to-hand encounter with a bear might well
+warrant. He informed us that he was surprised by it at about fifty
+paces’ distance, that it had broken from a barrier of hummocks and
+had galloped up to within five paces, had then raised itself, and had
+struck him down with both fore-paws. Copeland had had no time to load
+his gun; but as the creature caught his clothes, he swung the butt-end
+of it across its snout. This (and perhaps the noise of our approach)
+had the unexpected effect of putting Master Bruin to flight; and we saw
+the monster a hundred paces off in the swinging gallop peculiar to him,
+looking round every now and then.</p>
+
+<p>This experience served as a lesson to us to keep our weapons loaded
+on the sledge for the future, and to be watchful, especially with a
+circumscribed horizon of view.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of all our efforts to keep to our southerly course, the
+constantly increasing collection of the ice masses forced us to the
+eastward; and at eight a.m., in the latitude of Cape Borlase Warren,
+we stopped at the entrance of Gael Hamkes Bay. We found ourselves
+nearly five miles from the coast in a perfect forest of high jagged
+ice-cliffs, the boundary of which we could not see even from a high
+stand-point. Round about us rose ice-barriers on every side; evidently
+the pack-ice of the previous summer had drifted direct into the bay,
+and had there increased to bergs. They were the same masses which a
+month before had prevented the ship from advancing.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3561_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3561_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_356"><i>Page 356.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ICEBERG NEAR CAPE BORLASE WARREN.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">[357]</span></p>
+
+<p>Some nautical miles to the east a bright smooth surface glittered, to
+all appearance an inviting road; which, however, we could only hope
+to reach by carrying our baggage piecemeal over the chaotic masses;
+besides this, we were not at all sure of being able to reach our goal
+this new way. We were already preparing to undertake this troublesome
+work, when we suddenly heard the grunting and puffing of walruses, and
+saw their sphynx-like bodies emerge from the supposed icy surface—in
+reality a watery mirror. There remained, therefore, nothing for us but
+to retrace our steps for two hours, and seek an outlet along the coast.
+In this we succeeded: the coast offered much that was geologically
+interesting; a scanty intermediate stratum of coal, probably of lias
+formation, and some petrified wood in dolerite may be mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded along the shore over slippery ice thrown up by the tide.
+Arrived at the promontory of Borlase Warren, which is a sharp advancing
+group of rocks, we came upon a number of stranded icebergs, amongst
+which we had much trouble in finding a road. We followed the coast,
+which curved sharply to the west and was covered with the remains of
+Esquimaux dwellings, until it became more open, though more and more
+covered with snow; and after a march of twenty nautical miles, we
+encamped for the night at the foot of a mountain north of Cape Mary.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th of October, at half-past seven a.m., we continued our
+journey westward; the weather was lovely (14° Fahr.). Nothing
+interrupted our march, but an occasional topographical survey. The
+easterly mountain-range of Clavering Island, with precipitous masses
+covered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">[358]</span> with ice, 3250 to 4875 feet high, lay before us. Even from the
+distance the geological character of this island was unmistakeable. Its
+rocks of granite and gneiss, which also seem to prevail in the interior
+of Greenland, were interspersed to the north with numerous dark streaks
+of basalt, which struck one, even in the distance, by their regularity
+of form and dark colour. Up to the last moment the existence of the
+Fjord which we were seeking seemed doubtful; but as we turned a
+promontory to the south-west of Sattelberg peninsula, we came upon it.
+It stretched in a northerly direction, and then bent to westward, and
+was enclosed, cell-like, by glorious mountain domes.</p>
+
+<p>Our great desire to extend our journey as much as possible could now
+be carried out, if, on the one hand, we made the most of our limited
+<i>time</i>, and, on the other, our not less limited <i>provisions</i>,
+by agreeing to short rations; we therefore gave up our regular mid-day
+meal. As our stock of spirit was far too small to allow of our melting
+ice for drinking purposes, our thirst became exceedingly troublesome.
+The layer of snow on the thick ice we found interspersed with smooth
+spots, which we crossed upon skates.</p>
+
+<p>Later on, we continually came across parts where the frozen sea-water
+had formed a saline deposit upon the surface of the ice, which made
+our advance much more difficult. It was now dark; and when at five
+o’clock, after marching twenty-two nautical miles in a temperature
+of 9° Fahr., we encamped at the foot of a stony hillock, we were
+delighted by the sight of a lovely Aurora—violet, green, and yellow.
+In unusual intensity it passed from west to east through our zenith.
+It<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">[359]</span> appeared like one single beam, so that involuntarily we were drawn
+to the conclusion that the appearance resembled a flattened lens, or a
+ring, in the centre of which we were exactly placed. Night had spread
+its wings over the comfortless dreariness. The surrounding mountains
+appeared like black, shadowy masses.</p>
+
+<p>The sledge is now freed from its burden,—a much more complicated
+affair than might be supposed; for, though we had only taken the
+merest necessaries, we had to be very careful of the instruments,
+cooking apparatus, climbing-poles, lamp, &amp;c., also the barometer and
+thermometer to read off.</p>
+
+<p>In Europe we generally undress to go to rest. In Arctic regions, on
+the contrary, we generally dress. Each one frees his long beard from
+the clusters of ice which had settled upon it, and brings out his
+reserve stockings or his bear-skin shoes. The feet are thrust into
+the sleeping-sack, and the body follows. The space is so narrow, and
+the party so closely packed, that the pulling-off of boots can only
+be accomplished by sitting on one’s neighbour, and every one must
+inevitably step over or on another at the least movement, and seeking
+for one’s fur gloves necessitates kneeling either upon the face or
+the shins of some one else, thus causing an indignant remonstrance.
+From the spot where the knee rests issues a howl; you start back
+unsuspiciously—knock over the lamp (an uncovered tin dish filled with
+bears’-grease which hung from the gable of the tent by a wire); a flood
+of oil ensues—but who cares for that? But it is dangerous when the
+tent gets on fire—an accident which happened twice on our journey. In
+a moment several square feet of covering, on which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">[360]</span> the burning spirit
+had been spilt, was in flames; we burnt fur hoods and gloves in trying
+to put it out. The sufferers then drew fur stockings over their hands.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3600_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3600_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">TENT-QUARTERS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The cooking apparatus, filled either with ice or snow, is in full
+activity; the temperature rises rapidly; heavy clouds of smoke fill
+the tent, so that one cannot see one’s hand; a burning candle has
+the appearance of a halo round a moon; a light rain falls from the
+thoroughly wet walls of the tent, which, after becoming steam, at once<span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">[361]</span>
+freezes—the dampness of clothes and covering thus augmenting daily.</p>
+
+<p>The satisfying of thirst (that great torment of Arctic sledge journeys)
+by melted ice, and the preparation of the evening meal—cocoa or
+coffee, with a little bread and bacon—had occupied the spirit-lamp
+three-quarters of an hour, causing an atmosphere most trying to the
+eyes, and, from its daily recurrence, creating perfect torture.</p>
+
+<p>The evening meal over (not one would give it up for all the treasures
+of the world), we took a short siesta, the only pleasant time of the
+day. We smoke—the sailors that dreadful shrub called “Camel’s-hair.”
+The day’s events, new discoveries, as well as possible eventualities,
+are discussed; the day-book is closed, and those suffering from
+dysentery take some opium. Then from a locked tin box is taken a bottle
+of rum or brandy, from which we each have two or three spoonfuls. For
+a few minutes conversation brightens, then the pipe is emptied, and we
+bury ourselves in our sleeping-sack.</p>
+
+<p>About nine o’clock on the 30th of October we found ourselves ready to
+start again. We bent our steps westward into the cell-like windings
+of the Sound, which, from its grand scenery, we named the “Tiroler
+Fjord,” the breadth of which was at first seven nautical miles, but
+narrowed suddenly to one nautical mile and a half. Numerous cliffs and
+close-lying ice-fields here caused us much hindrance.</p>
+
+<p>A large promontory of Clavering Island, somewhat resembling the
+“Eiger” in Switzerland, the steep wall of which fell sheer into the
+Fjord, was our next aim;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_362">[362]</span> but before we reached it, imposing fields of
+glaciers were visible. We now found ourselves more to the north side
+of Clavering Island. The chief glacier of this valley, the farther end
+of which might be 800 feet above the level of the sea, showed the most
+perfect lateral and central moraines. The height of the tide in the
+Fjord at this spot was from two to three feet.</p>
+
+<p>Our road here was a perfect rocky street, leading us now over a field
+of snow some miles in extent, and then over smooth ice, interspersed
+with spots of snow, which we crossed on skates. After a while this
+became impracticable. We went on in the increasing darkness along the
+north-west strand of the island, and, after travelling twenty nautical
+miles, halted at six p.m. The object of our journey had now been
+proved, and, more than that, we found that the Sound opened into two
+arms running westward.</p>
+
+<p>The west side, which from here we had almost entirely overlooked,
+consisted of the coarse-grained, greyish-yellow granite which had been
+washed from the heights, crumbling easily, and thoroughly percolated by
+the streams running down from the glaciers, at some distance giving one
+the impression of weather-beaten sandstone. This sedimentary formation
+fell five degrees towards the west. The surface was covered with a
+thick growth of birches and willows, and grasses of a few inches high.
+This spot was the richest in vegetation of any I had seen in Greenland;
+and we might therefore count upon the presence of reindeer, which was
+all the more welcome, as the continuation of our journey depended upon
+the success of our hunters.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3622_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3622_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm center">London. Sampson Low, Marston, Low &amp; Searle. 188 Fleet Street</p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">TIROL FJORD.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Whilst Herzberg and Iversen hunted, and Wagner <span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">[363]</span>remained to guard the
+tents, Copeland and I started for the middle of the fork, which was
+here from three to five nautical miles broad, in order to find a spot,
+if possible, from which we could get a favourable view of the branches.
+Ice-cliffs in numbers filled it, their light colour striking with a
+glare against the steel-green of the smooth ice-covering of the Fjord.
+To the north and west brown walls, 3000 feet high, rose in imposing
+forms in giant rows, as a background to the glaciers of the Tiroler
+Fjord.</p>
+
+<p>The gentle slopes of Clavering Island were covered with a light green,
+and over it hung long icy tongues and frozen torrents, surmounted
+by the snow-capped main ridge, 4200 to 5250 feet high; and in a
+south-westerly direction, in another arm of the Fjord, we could see a
+rocky island with glaciers about 4200 feet high; this had been landed
+upon from another side by Clavering, and named “Jordan Hill.”</p>
+
+<p>On this journey a dark layer of a variety of conglomerate drew us
+nearly five miles out of our way towards Jordan Hill. From the colour
+we had hoped to find a stratum of coal. After discovering our mistake,
+and retracing our steps, we found that our hunters were busy cutting up
+two nearly white reindeer. We were so hungry that we ate some of the
+meat raw, and carried the legs away to the sledge.</p>
+
+<p>It was half-past three p.m. before we left our resting-place, and, from
+the unexpected increase of our provisions, we determined to sacrifice
+another day in order to explore the background of the Tiroler Fjord.</p>
+
+<p>On the strand of Clavering Island we had collected a quantity of
+drift-wood, and on the south side Clavering had met with Esquimaux; but
+from the presence of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">[364]</span> drift-wood we concluded that they were not
+there, as they would have carefully collected it.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of November, at half-past six a.m., in the darkness when
+we started for the background of Tiroler Fjord, it was still lovely
+weather (8.5° Fahr.); the end of the Fjord, however, was not visible,
+and for a time we thought that it was connected with Fligely Fjord,
+when a much shorter route would be opened for our return to the ship.
+By nine o’clock (6.8° Fahr.) we had reached the mid-length of the
+Fjord, and stood upon its west bank opposite a beautiful semicircle of
+glaciers, in the centre of which rose a mighty granite colossus. The
+lower end of these glaciers might be about 300 feet above the level of
+the sea.</p>
+
+<p>A dead-white barrier, which from our standing-point appeared to close
+in the Fjord a mile to the north of us, and which in the early dawn of
+the morning we could not understand, we now discovered to be the mighty
+wall of the termination of a glacier. Natural as this discovery was, we
+were taken by surprise, though even in the distance we recognized these
+glaciers as of primary formation.</p>
+
+<p>After an hour and a half’s walking over the smooth surface of the
+Fjord, we came upon an isolated conical rock, surrounded by gigantic
+walls 300 feet high, and upon the opposite bank was a similar isolated
+screen. Behind the same, separated merely by a large bed of rubbish,
+lay a colossal terminal moraine, and over this rose the icy front of
+wildly-shaped glaciers. Scarcely anywhere can the traces of glacier
+formation be so strikingly followed out as on this spot. The surface of
+this rock was perfectly polished, and cut with parallel<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">[365]</span> furrow-shaped
+cavities, with an inclination of eight degrees southward, where a
+local deviation in the rock, agreeing with the inclination of the
+neighbouring glacier, formed a prominency. Parallel with the cavities
+above described ran small furrows an inch deep; thus these polished
+cavities of larger dimensions seem to show us that the glaciers at
+different epochs, and with different degrees of force, flowed down,
+passing lightly in some places over the surface of the rocks, and at
+last resting unevenly on one level, leaving everywhere traces of its
+presence. Lastly, these small rifts and furrows are known to have been
+formed from blocks which the streaming glacier had forced against the
+walls. Remarkable, too, is the upward tendency of the cavities in some
+places as well as the smaller furrows. The same thing is observable in
+those spots where the tenacious bulk of the forward-driving masses of
+the upper portions of the glacier have been hemmed in by projections,
+or rather when, for a short space, it was forced to go upwards. Where
+the smaller inclination of the surface of the rocky cone admitted of
+it, we found it strewn with erratic blocks of a cubic yard in size.
+They were upright, and situated often in the most peculiar places; the
+summit of the rocky cone was also covered with them. At the foot of
+the Fjord walls lay lateral moraines, placed terrace-wise one above
+another. Evidently the large glaciers had long since left these spots.
+Over the frozen road covered with rubbish we reached the terminal
+moraine, 150 feet high, over which the glacier torrents now hung,
+turned to icy giant cataracts. What water-floods must have hurried
+onward to the Fjord when the sun shone bright!</p>
+
+<p>From the height of the terminal moraine ridge the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">[366]</span> slope of rubbish
+fell forty-six feet over the outer edge of the glacier. The icy stream,
+from its azure colour and its transparency, we named “Pasterze,”
+and the heights above, which, to carry out the analogy, we called
+“Grossglockner,” rose in confused towering groups; though we missed the
+characteristic feature of our Alps, the sharpness of the ice edges.
+This circumstance may be explained by the fact that the ice of the
+Greenland glaciers is not so solid and glassy as ours. It resembles
+more last year’s ice, and for this reason cracks and fissures are not
+so frequent as with us; for a long time the edges, from thaws and
+evaporations, have rounded off; and, lastly, the very formation of the
+ice is not so sharp and defined as in our glaciers. We found the ice so
+smooth that it was with difficulty we reached the heights.</p>
+
+<p>To a certain extent it was from here that we first really overlooked
+the glacier. It was formed from five great tributaries, which were
+partly engulfed on the high plateaus of the mountain range, and sinking
+between the steep walls of the Fjord. Perhaps these gigantic breaches
+in the walls of the Fjord might be partly the result of thousands of
+years’ erosion. More distinctly than anything else, however, did the
+glorious polish on the Hornblend-gneiss and the walls, composed of
+epidote granite, entitle us to assume that at one time the whole of the
+Fjord must have been filled with this Greenland “Pasterze;” for in the
+background it reaches to 720 feet above the level of the sea, and sinks
+towards the exit of the Sound down to 520 feet.</p>
+
+<p>In our Alps primary glaciers end as soon as they come into the region
+of 41° Fahr. mean temperature (Schlagintweit, Physikalische Geographie
+der Alpen); in Greenland,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">[367]</span> on the contrary, this isothermal line
+nowhere exists, and the reaching the level of the sea and the extent of
+the ice is their only limit.</p>
+
+<p>Furthermore, in our Alps the slightest covering of snow on the summit
+of the glaciers does not fall until the the beginning of September. In
+Greenland, again, this does not happen until a month and a half later.
+Some nautical miles upwards from the mouth of the glacier streams
+in the Fjord the ice was strikingly transparent, light blue, and
+peculiarly smooth. This was evidently fresh-water ice from the falling
+torrents, and turned by degrees into the steel-green saltwater ice.</p>
+
+<p>We now found ourselves 3½° west of the ship; and, in spite of the great
+circuit we had made to the south, we were again in its latitude, as
+shown by an astronomical calculation of Copeland’s. Our provisions now
+consisted mainly of reindeer’s flesh, which caused a dysentery that not
+even opium could assuage. We had, therefore, no choice but to return,
+which we did at four p.m. We took our course from Cape Giesecke, which
+we reached, after a thirteen nautical miles’ tramp, at seven p.m.
+(1° Fahr.) Here we enjoyed the sight of a lovely meteor. For several
+seconds the whole of the Fjord was bathed in one intense carmine light.
+On this day the sun set for us, from our circumscribed horizon, shortly
+before noon, so that it was perfectly dark, when at 7½ p.m. we reached
+our resting-place of the 29th of October (0° Fahr.).</p>
+
+<p>On the 3rd of November, at 7¾ a.m., we continued our journey in a
+southerly direction, from the mouth of the Tiroler Fjord, over a
+monotonous desert of fresh-fallen snow. The temperature had fallen to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">[368]</span>
+-9° Fahr., by which the working with the theodolite was rendered very
+difficult, for we could scarcely approach it without causing the lenses
+to become coated with moisture. At six p.m., after retracing eighteen
+nautical miles, we reached the halting-place of the 28th of October
+(-11° Fahr.). That night we were kept awake by storm and drifting snow.</p>
+
+<p>We started again on the 4th of November at six a.m. with a light west
+wind (-13° Fahr.), and, after three hours’ march, reached Cape Borlase
+Warren, when, after passing the dense ice-groups, it became daylight.
+The sun did not appear quite above the horizon this day. We rested
+for an hour; the remainder of the spirits provided us with a soup,
+and then we entered the icy labyrinth. In the neighbourhood of Flache
+Bay, however, we found it very unsafe, the last northern storm having
+broken up all the ice, and opened up broad streams of water, which
+were partly again covered with thin ice, that bent under our weight
+like leather. In the meantime it was quite dark; even open water we
+could only distinguish by sounding with the alpenstock. We soon found
+it very difficult to drag the sledge; so we left it behind in a secure
+place on the coast, only taking with us our books and instruments. We
+then followed the line of the coast, but there we met with complicated
+and impassable masses of ice, so we had to return to the treacherous
+ice-field. As with difficulty we were following the road, we were
+suddenly startled by a walrus breaking through the ice close to us.
+We fled as quickly as we could, for any attempt to defend ourselves
+would have been madness. But the walrus swam as quickly under the ice
+after us, breaking through it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">[369]</span> near us, evidently intending to swim
+in our company. We dispersed as much as possible, springing over the
+ice-crust, through which the alpenstock constantly broke, followed by
+the rustling and flapping caused by the monster. Had any one fallen
+in, it would have been impossible to have pulled him out again.
+Fortunately, near Cape Wynn, a screen of old ice relieved us of our
+pursuer. These creatures can break through ice six inches thick, and
+strike the exact spot where they last saw their enemy.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3690_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3690_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">YOUNG WALRUS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>From here to the ship (five to six nautical miles) the ice, being
+thicker, had not suffered from the storm, whilst an intense yellow
+Aurora covered the greater part of the heavens, its brightness
+resembling that of the moon in her first quarter. We reached the winter
+harbour at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">[370]</span> nine p.m., having traversed twenty-six nautical miles, just
+as they were about to send a sledge after us, being uneasy as to our
+fate.</p>
+
+<p>Two days after the sun set, not to rise again until the spring, and
+frightful snow-storms began.</p>
+
+<p>The passage conjectured by Clavering to exist to the north of the
+island of the same name, the discovery of some Fjords, the enlargement
+of our geographical knowledge of the neighbourhood, the completion of
+its chart, and, lastly, the highly interesting study of the Greenland
+glaciers, were the fruits of this difficult journey of over 200 miles,
+reckoning the distance out and in.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_371">[371]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">WINTER NIGHT. NOVEMBER, 1869, TO NEW YEAR’S DAY, 1870.<a id="FNanchor_55" href="#Footnote_55" class="fnanchor">[54]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Storm and snow-drift.—Boisterous night.—Damage to the
+observatory.—Snow-wall on the ship.—The cold.—Tidings
+from East Greenland.—Stormy weather again.—Increase of
+darkness.—Establishment of a school of navigation.—Fresh
+storm.—The shortest day.—Damage during the storm.—Force
+and velocity of the wind.—Magnetic periods.—Celebration of
+Christmas.—Singing and dancing on Christmas-eve.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The sun, that source of all light and life, had left us. The three
+months’ Arctic night had begun. There was enough daylight, however,
+to allow of our working in the open air; the cold too was not very
+great, so that we did not feel the transition much. On the 7th and 8th
+a storm raged surpassing any that we had hitherto felt; but after our
+experience it did not terrify us.</p>
+
+<p>As the men seemed inclined to treat this change in our position too
+lightly, we, estimating the seriousness of the case more justly,
+thought it our duty to notice it in some way, and thus our entrance
+into this winter night was made somewhat solemnly. An arrangement was
+then made by Captain Koldewey settling the daily order of things, and
+on some points giving more stringent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_372">[372]</span> directions. Moreover, it was
+fortunate that Mr. Sengstacke had, on the 5th of November, returned
+on board with the sledge left behind by Payer; for the whole of the
+following days there were storms from the north, with thick drifting
+snow, thus putting a stop to all business in the open air. During
+the night the force of the squall seemed to increase, so that by
+the morning it was no longer possible to go on shore; but we hung a
+thermometer against the mainmast, in a place where no local influence
+could be brought to bear upon it, and during the storm it showed
+exactly the same temperature on land as on the ice.</p>
+
+<p>Thus began Sunday, the 7th of November; but the prevailing quiet on
+board from the cessation of all work made the raging of the storm
+without more noticeable. Boreas did not acknowledge the day of rest,
+but gained strength hour by hour, and howled round us without the
+slightest intermission. From time to time there were perfect hurricane
+gusts, causing the ice-bound ship to quiver throughout: such weather we
+had never before experienced. If we ventured beyond the closely-shut
+hatchways on to the deck, we were nearly deafened by the blustering,
+roaring, and crashing with which the wind broke upon the ship and
+howled round it. Conversation was not to be thought of, for the loudest
+word of command could not be heard over the whole ship.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p3721_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p3721_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_372"><i>Page 372.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">ON DECK.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>Looking through the rifts of the tightly-closed opening, one could see
+nothing but the everlasting softly-falling thick masses of fine snowy
+particles. No trace of land; indeed, one could scarcely distinguish
+the next block of ice. It was no wonder, from the increasing violence
+of the storm, that our thoughts, too, should become stormy. <span class="pagenum" id="Page_373">[373]</span>What if
+the ship should break away from the ice? Could we then remain on the
+same spot? Land had apparently disappeared. A dreadful squall drove
+the sharp snow in our faces, and, shuddering, we quickly retreated
+under the tent-roof, which bent inwards more and more, the fastenings
+seeming to slacken. The chimney shook; even the mast above, which we
+could see through a slit in the roof, swayed. We feared the tent would
+split up if the storm lasted much longer. And then? then the whole of
+the deck would be swept clean, and we must resign ourselves to remain
+below until the storm had spent itself, and allowed us to make good all
+damage done. And on land? how could we tell whether this furious storm
+had not demolished our provision depôt, torn off the roof, or destroyed
+the chests, &amp;c., and rolled them into the sea?</p>
+
+<p>As we paced the deck on that Sunday morning we were grave, but still
+of good heart; we had done all that lay in our power. On deck it
+looked interesting enough. Through all existing or freshly-made holes,
+through the smallest breaks or rents, and even through the sail-cloth
+itself, the snow had forced its way; the atmosphere was filled with the
+smallest grains and needle-points, which fell on everything on deck,
+soon, in spite of all our trouble, forming a thick covering of snow.</p>
+
+<p>The after-part of the ship presented the worst appearance: here was a
+perfect snow landscape. And in order to get at the provisions we were
+obliged every time to use the shovel, and at the wheel-house the drift
+was from six to seven feet high.</p>
+
+<p>Later, the storm seemed to abate a little, allowing Mr. Sengstacke and
+Dr. Copeland to work their way<span class="pagenum" id="Page_374">[374]</span> with much difficulty through the still
+drifting snow to land. The observatory and its roof were still there,
+but they were both, as well as the thermometer-case, full of snow. It
+would have been most interesting could we have ascertained the actual
+force of the storm, as Robinson’s anemometer would give it. But what a
+disaster! the wings had been blown off. Breathless, without any result,
+and most picturesquely snowed over, did the gentlemen return,—and only
+just in time, for the storm rose again with undiminished strength;
+indeed, from nine a.m. until eleven p.m. it seemed trying to outdo
+itself.</p>
+
+<p>We turned up our collars, and waded in our fur boots through the snow,
+looking carefully round on all sides. Everything was fast as yet. But
+the storm seemed to know no end, and at short intervals squall upon
+squall thundered down on to the ship: one could feel the deck quiver
+under one’s feet.</p>
+
+<p>Attentively we listen to the raging concerts, to see if we can
+catch any signs of abatement. Every fresh squall seems to be the
+last, as it rumbles and dies away in the distance. We listen
+anxiously—one—two—three minutes! but again we can distinguish in the
+regular blustering and grumbling another tone, and before we have time
+to consider a fresh, and stronger tempest howls and roars, around us.
+With anxious glances at the threatened tent-roof we leave the deck and
+go below, seat ourselves at the table, and take a book. But reading is
+impossible. It is already late in the evening, and we can take refuge
+in our berths. But sleep will not come. Everything, about us is in a
+constant tremble; the stone and glasses clatter, and now and then a
+stronger shock rouses us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_375">[375]</span> from our half-slumber; until at length, as
+the storm lulls by degrees, fatigue conquers, and helps the weary one
+to rest. We commend ourselves to heaven, and sleep.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning (8th November) we convince ourselves, to our
+great joy, that the tent is not split. The heavy squalls had ceased at
+midnight, but a violent storm was still raging; and, though lasting
+more than two whole days, seemed not yet likely to drop, although
+the barometer was rising energetically. Directly after coffee, every
+man goes to work with broom and shovel to get rid of the masses of
+snow that had gathered on deck. The cold is zero (F.), but after the
+inactivity of yesterday we find the air most agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>Not until four p.m. did the snow cease and the storm give over; and by
+six o’clock a most unearthly stillness reigned, and the foul weather
+was over. We felt exactly as one does after standing for a long time
+by a waterfall or a glacier torrent, and then suddenly turning a rocky
+projection, when the roaring is no longer heard—so wonderfully still
+and quiet lay all around us.</p>
+
+<p>The barometer had now reached the unusual height of 30.8 inches. During
+the night the equilibrium of the atmosphere was quite restored, and
+nature lay still and quiet as before; the veil of clouds parted, and
+with the same feelings as at home we greet the rainbow after a heavy
+storm, we watched the red rays of the Northern Lights shoot up in the
+southern sky.</p>
+
+<p>The next day there was plenty of work; our greatest trouble was the
+observatory. Here melancholy discoveries awaited the astronomers.</p>
+
+<p>The whole interior of the building was filled with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_376">[376]</span> dense masses
+of snow. Carefully we press through it to the stone on which the
+theodolite stood, covered over: the stone is empty! That was a severe
+blow. But we soon discovered the costly instrument lying on the floor
+quite unharmed. The telescope stand, too, was overturned. We were
+fortunate enough to find Robinson’s wings again; they had not suffered
+much, and Wagner’s clever hands soon succeeded in restoring the useful
+instrument.</p>
+
+<p>The next days were calm, with a clear or slightly clouded atmosphere.
+The outline of the fog to the south was interesting, betokening open
+water, whilst before noon a thin veil hid the southern mainland. Later
+on, stretched at the same height a fog bank, from Walrus Island into
+Clavering Straits, which after a time disappeared. In this expanse
+Captain Koldewey saw open water, when at ten o’clock he went to the
+Germaniaberg to survey the condition of the ice. The line in which the
+ice had been torn asunder went from the south end of Walrus Island,
+through Clavering Straits to the west, past the small island to Cape
+Wynn; from the north end of Walrus Island to Cairn Point, then up the
+shore of our island to the south-east end of Klein Pendulum. South of
+Shannon, however, the old ice lay unaltered. Here we again recognized
+the great importance of Walrus Island, as affording a secure harbour.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of land there was but little snow on the ice; and
+on the mountains but little more than formerly. The condition of the
+vegetation had previously led us to the conclusion, which seemed to be
+correct, that the snowfall in winter was but small.</p>
+
+<p>We were now able to make use of the large quantity of fallen snow, as
+it had hardened in the storm and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_377">[377]</span> cold. Where the snow-drifts were
+deep enough, square pieces were cut out and brought to the ship. With
+these a high wall was built adjoining the ice-blocks, the space between
+being filled in with fragments.</p>
+
+<p>From similar snow-stones a screen was built in front of the ventilator
+to keep out the cold. At the exit of the back path, which was twelve
+feet long, and higher than a man’s height, we put the door of the
+wheel-house, thus causing the warmth to be sometimes so intense that
+the snow began to melt and the walls to shrink.</p>
+
+<p>By the second week of November the cold had increased to a mean daily
+temperature of from -2° Fahr. to -13°, reaching a minimum of -16°, a
+temperature which agreed with us in every respect.</p>
+
+<p>This may be attributed to the force of habit; besides which, the cold
+was much more easily borne in a still atmosphere. Our bodies required
+no greater protection than the usual winter clothing; even this was a
+great deal too warm if we were busied in any active work.</p>
+
+<p>In the cabin we mostly took off our coats, and yet we did not require
+fifteen pounds of coal a day to heat our Meidinger stove. Indeed, at
+first, the heat of this stove was our greatest trouble, and it required
+some experience and great care not to allow the temperature to rise
+beyond 68° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>On the 13th the first large wash was held, and the men were examined
+by the doctor from head to foot, when none of them showed the least
+sign of disease. After this proceeding the expedition clothing (coats,
+trowsers, waistcoats, and woollen underclothing) was given out.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, the first really quiet Sunday, brought a slight
+interruption to the monotony of our daily life.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_378">[378]</span> The first number of
+the “East Greenland Gazette” appeared.</p>
+
+<p>We thought that on this point too we ought to follow the example
+of our predecessors, although our prevailing state of mind had as
+yet in no way required such cheering and refreshing. Materials for
+the publication of such a number every fourteen days could never
+be wanting. Unfortunately, a small printing press, given by the
+printing-house at Bremerhaven, had not followed us on board. In order,
+therefore, to have two copies, one for the cabin and one for the
+forecastle, we had to take the trouble to write it. Already on the 10th
+had appeared “Invitation to assist in the publication.” Dr. Pansch was
+appointed editor, and a locked box was hung up, in which every one
+dropped his contribution anonymously.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on Sunday at noon, the first number appeared “with a
+supplement,” sixteen pages in the whole. It contained all sorts of fun,
+some poems, “official proclamations,” and an address to the men by the
+doctor.</p>
+
+<p>That afternoon merriment reigned in both rooms, and in the fore-cabin
+the well known “Volkslieder” were heard in the evening. Well might we
+enjoy this fine still day.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th, just eight days after the last catastrophe, it again began
+to blow a storm from the north, and that <i>crescendo</i>. The storm
+howled and sobbed, the squall crashed and thundered, the tent bent,
+and the poles cracked; dense, wildly-drifting snow without, and fine
+powdery drifts on deck. It is the same mighty spectacle of northern
+nature that we so vividly remembered the week before. And it raged thus
+unabated for quite eighty-one hours; as far as we could ascertain, the
+fall of snow lasted forty-five hours.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_379">[379]</span></p>
+
+<p>Of course the effects were misfortune upon misfortune. The snow walls
+of the observatory were for the most part blown away, and the interior
+snowed up. The snow walls of the ship had suffered too. Worse than
+all was the loss of the “Robinson,” which had again disappeared; and
+this time, in spite of all our search, was not to be found. From the
+direction of the snow-drifts we found that the storm came from the same
+quarter as before.</p>
+
+<p>One thing was very plain to us, namely, that had our ship been larger,
+we could not have hauled it into the creek, and would most likely have
+had to stop on the same spot where Captain Clavering had anchored with
+the Griper, on the south side of the island, near the Esquimaux huts.
+In that case we must inevitably have been torn away with the ice by the
+storm and been destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>We must mention that the temperature rose on the 18th to 16° Fahr.;
+the consequence of which was, that the screen on deck began to thaw
+considerably, sending much wet into the cabin. The following day,
+too, the temperature remained moderate, and even rose to 11.75°. To
+our feelings this “warmth” was anything but agreeable; it forced us,
+hardened as we were, when working in the snow, to relieve ourselves of
+nearly all clothing but our shirts.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st (Sunday) the second number of our paper appeared, as
+rich in contents, and with much that was interesting and funny. The
+following is an example of the official part:—</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="smcap center">Reward!!!</p>
+
+<p>Whoever finds the body of Robinson (Crusoe), who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_380">[380]</span> has
+disappeared from his island, shall receive a reward of one
+bottle of wine and one dozen of cigars. Many may compete for
+this prize at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>Given from our winter quarters, Clavering Straits, Nov. 10.</p>
+
+<p class="smcap r2">C. Koldewey.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The fine weather of the next days facilitated repairs of the damage
+done by the storm. The observatories received a new and thicker coating
+of snow, which sloped up to the roof, by which the whole obtained a
+uniform appearance; over this we poured water, which formed a crust of
+ice, apparently strong enough to defy any storm.</p>
+
+<p>Noteworthy now was the increase of darkness. On the 22nd of November,
+at noon, all thermometers had to be read by the lamp; and on the 23rd,
+at noon, stars of the second magnitude (for example, the polar-star)
+could be distinctly seen. The whole morning the southern horizon
+from Walrus Island to Cape Borlase Warren was yellowish-red; and
+this twilight showed strong against the black line of open water. At
+the same time there was a strong refraction of the rays, and in the
+atmosphere appeared a glimmering undulating motion from west to east.</p>
+
+<p>The evenings and nights too were beautiful; the moon shone without
+setting from the 19th to the 25th. At noon we still saw its pale light,
+and at night it was frequently surrounded with a halo, accompanied by a
+<i>paraselene</i> or mock moon.</p>
+
+<p>The Northern Lights again appeared in all their beauty, and when the
+magnetic observatory was in order, observations<span class="pagenum" id="Page_381">[381]</span> upon the fluctuation
+of the declination of the pole were made in connexion with notices upon
+the rapidly changing appearance of the Aurora. This work, upon which,
+and more especially upon the scientific work during the winter, a
+glance will be taken in the next chapters, was often difficult enough,
+as it had to be written down in the open air by the light of a lamp for
+hours together. The captain made use of the clear evenings to take a
+number of lunar calculations. The temperature and the thickness of the
+ice were also measured. The latter, at some distance from the ship, was
+thirty-six and a half English inches.</p>
+
+<p>Thus our daily life passed pretty regularly, one day being much as
+another. Scientific work we had in plenty. Our leisure hours were spent
+agreeably in reading, playing at chess, and conversation.</p>
+
+<p>One great evil we still had to contend with was the small room, and
+especially the small table, which we had to share. In any great
+zoological work, this was so considerable that Dr. Pansch had to make
+use of the night hours, when all but the watch had gone to rest.</p>
+
+<p>A decided change had now taken place in the life of the men by the
+introduction of a navigation school. The captain’s suggestion for this
+object was received with great approbation; indeed, every one wanted
+to take a part in it. But on the 25th the school was opened with four
+scholars: P. Iversen, P. Ellinger, Th. Klentzer, and G. Herzberg.
+The captain taught navigation, Dr. Börgen undertook geography and
+astronomy, Dr. Copeland natural science.</p>
+
+<p>An hour was given every day, and the men had enough to do to get
+through the work and impress it upon their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_382">[382]</span> minds; but they did it with
+great eagerness, and seldom in a forecastle was so much heard of plus
+and minus, of squares and square roots as with us on the Germania.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas month was approaching, and the first week passed without any
+particular occurrence. The mean daily temperature remained moderate,
+14° to -4° Fahr. The wind frequently blew violently from the north, and
+on the 4th brought heavy drifting snow. To the south and south-east we
+heard from time to time crashing and roaring, as of water and ice, but
+we were spared a real storm.</p>
+
+<p>On the 3rd of December, in the afternoon, we were suddenly alarmed by
+a loud and violent breaking and cracking the whole length of the ship,
+followed by a slight shock. Hurrying out to see the cause, we soon
+found that the snow-wall on the port side had loosened itself from the
+ship and had sunk some inches against it, in consequence of which it
+was forced to the starboard side, and this crooked position increased
+later, and was at once perceptible in the cabin. The ice behind it
+showed some cracks and fissures, one of which reached to the land. The
+stern-post, however, of the Germania seemed not to have suffered; the
+rudder and the rudder-pin were uninjured. It seemed that the colossal
+burden of the snow masses heaped on the starboard side had caused the
+ice to sink, and, giving way, had loosened the wall from the ship.</p>
+
+<p>Weeks passed without any unusual interruption. Everything went its
+usual way, the increasing darkness of the days turning our thoughts to
+Christmas and the new year.</p>
+
+<p>But not very considerately did the old one intend to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_383">[383]</span> take leave of us.
+After some days of unsettled weather, on the 10th of December came an
+unsteady north wind, alternating with drifting snow, now rising to a
+storm, and now quite dying away. At the same time one could hear the
+mighty roaring and howling of the water and ice. From the 8th to the
+15th it raged thus continually, when the mean force of the wind was
+thirty miles an hour. Without, little could be done; and at noon, even
+on deck, nothing could be distinctly seen without a lamp.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th it began suddenly to rage from the north so violently that
+in from three to four hours the “Robinson” had marked no less than
+sixty-three English miles. And this was the beginning of the worst and
+most lasting storm experienced. On the evening of the 16th it abated a
+little, so that the next morning we could with some trouble return to
+observations on land; but in the evening the wind roared with redoubled
+fury. In the later hours its speed was from sixty-five to sixty-seven
+English miles, and that of the real storm of course much greater.</p>
+
+<p>It was Dr. Börgen who took these two readings at the observatory; and
+indeed that was no trifle. On land he was once taken bodily up and
+thrown at least ten paces forward, and not without great exertion did
+he reach the guiding rope, and then on his way to the ship he was
+lifted up several times and thrown aside. Our greatest help, indeed
+our actual preservation in such cases, was the row of ice-blocks with
+the rope stretched along it; for while the heavy drifting snow hid
+everything within a few paces, the rushing wind stopped the play of
+the lungs, and seemed to paralyze the brain, and all the attention and
+muscular power had to be directed to the keeping of one’s feet. Then it
+is almost impossible<span class="pagenum" id="Page_384">[384]</span> for the lonely wanderer to keep in one decided
+direction. Beaten and overpowered by the storm, the strongest man will
+soon in such a case be lost. Two of our men, having strayed far to the
+north, we should probably never have seen again had they not struck
+upon the ship’s anchor and thus retraced their steps.</p>
+
+<p>Besides, such attempts were never carried to rashness. On the following
+stormy days, three different times we felt our way to land by the rope,
+but from the thickness of the falling snow dared not venture to let
+it go and mount. The danger of going the wrong way was so imminent in
+such cases that we always stood on the steps, in order to help, if
+necessary, as far as was possible. With the lantern in hand we tapped
+around on deck in the deep snow. The hurricane raged round the tent, so
+that the props cracked and the cordage creaked; mighty fiends seemed
+let loose upon us, and at one time we were seriously afraid for the
+preservation of our tent-roof.</p>
+
+<p>The 18th dawned and ended: the storm raged on, and squall upon squall
+rushed over the ship without intermission or abatement; the falling
+snow being so dense that we could not see six steps before us.</p>
+
+<p>The 19th was the same—the storm howled and raged unchanged, but
+we still lay firm in the ice. But for how long—who could tell?
+Destruction might be near, and perhaps the open water already splashing
+beneath us.</p>
+
+<p>The long inactivity began to tell upon us. The food no longer tasted as
+usual, we had no heart to work, and here and there were signs of bad
+temper. In the forecastle something had happened. The snow-wall must
+have become relaxed, for on one side the cold wind<span class="pagenum" id="Page_385">[385]</span> whistled through
+the cracks of the planks, covering the cabin walls with ice. It cost us
+a whole day’s work to shut out the unwelcome guest.</p>
+
+<p>To get some little motion we paced the deck by the melancholy light of
+a lantern; but that did not last long. The everlasting rushing noise
+deafened one, and the tent seemed to crush us, though spanned to its
+uttermost. In a few minutes we were thickly covered with snow, and had
+to be scraped down so as not to carry too much wet below.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th matters somewhat improved. The astronomers were in despair;
+for the 21st was a magnetic period, and the whole twenty-four hours
+must be passed in the observatory. But everything has an end, even an
+East Greenland winter’s storm. Towards evening we could get to land
+comfortably without danger, and the astronomers were able to arrange
+the instruments and the observatory to their satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>The icy case had lasted well this time; only through a few small holes
+had the snow penetrated. In the observatory, however, there was more.
+The “Robinson” was again wingless; the bar on which the wings worked
+was much worn and bent to the south. The provision depôt was unharmed.
+We, however, found the flood-pole broken and frozen firm in the thick
+ice, and the snow-walls of the ship were partly blown away, and partly
+eaten away, and riddled with holes.</p>
+
+<p>But how had the storm dealt with the ice? this we must ascertain next.
+And soon, through the pale twilight, to the south we saw a dark strip
+shining—the open water. It must have come nearer to us than the last
+time; that was evident. We were, however,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_386">[386]</span> astonished to find that it
+was no longer 300 paces distant from the ship. It reached nearly to
+the observatory, and, upon trying to get to Cairn Point, we could not
+reach it; the ice was here torn into loose fragments. How about the
+ice-dam by Walrus Island, so important for our safety? We could not
+distinctly see whether it had been broken through, or whether it was
+still standing.</p>
+
+<p>It was with peculiar feelings that on the 21st—both the shortest and
+the darkest day—we walked about on the ice and on the neighbouring
+land. At home, after such a convulsion of nature, everything bears the
+stamp of destruction; here nothing showed traces of the fury of the
+elements but the large and small snow-drifts. White and still all lay
+around, the polished walls of rock rising dark above them; gloomy and
+almost foggy was the atmosphere. After the nearly ten days’ roar of the
+storm this quiet had in it something refreshing; but, in spite of that,
+we this day felt the deep melancholy impress of the Arctic night. In
+troubled, unsteady twilight lay the landscape, so that we could only
+see a few steps before us, and could scarcely see to read fine print. A
+faint light under the dark clouds in the south was the only sign of day.</p>
+
+<p>In looking back upon the storm, and reckoning the dates, we first
+realized what a mighty effort of nature it had been. Without reckoning
+the forerunners, the real storm had raged 103 hours, blowing with
+a mean strength on Beaufort’s scale<a id="FNanchor_56" href="#Footnote_56" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> of more than 9. If we take
+the rate during these 103 hours to be sixty miles (= fifteen German<span class="pagenum" id="Page_387">[387]</span>
+miles<a id="FNanchor_57" href="#Footnote_57" class="fnanchor">[56]</a>) per hour, and if it had continued straight in a southerly
+direction, this storm would not only have reached the equator, but have
+gone far beyond it even to the latitude of the south point of Africa;
+thus traversing more than a quarter of the earth’s circumference.
+Another peculiarity of this storm was, that, contrary to the sudden
+rising of the former, it seemed to increase by long preparatory stages.
+The barometer fell slowly, though not unusually low. The sky, too, at
+the beginning was perfectly clear; but most striking was the fact that
+the temperature remained low, -4° to -11° Fahr., until the end of the
+storm, when it rose by degrees.</p>
+
+<p>The 21st of December, as has been said, was a magnetic period. The
+astronomers had prepared the room and the instruments at the right
+time, and the twenty-four hours of minute observation began. Two hours’
+relief was allowed. The going backwards and forwards, the eating and
+drinking through the night, and the hot can of coffee on the stove all
+night was a welcome change from the uniformity of our life.</p>
+
+<p>Thus Christmas-time drew near. That the beautiful festival should
+be kept was understood, small gifts being prepared on all sides for
+the purpose. We were the first Germans who had wintered here, and so
+it was clear to all that the Christmas-tree must not be wanting on
+the Germania. This was an unavailing wish, for fir-trees do not grow
+in Greenland. But Nature seemed to take pity on us in our distress;
+sparing as her growth is, she offered us a helping hand and some fresh
+green for our Christmas-tree. The stalks of the Andromeda<span class="pagenum" id="Page_388">[388]</span> retain their
+leaves in winter, which, although of a dark greenish-brown, are still
+fresh. The carpenter made a pedestal, on which stood a three-feet stem,
+with the chief branches representing a fir-tree. These were covered
+with the shoots of the Andromeda, and smaller sticks were fastened on
+to resemble the natural branches. In this way we obtained a “fir-tree”
+far surpassing our expectations. The overhanging slope of Germaniaberg
+was one of the few spots where the plant grew plentifully; our botanist
+knew how to find the spot under the snow, and in the dark noontide hour
+the plants were raked up and brought home triumphantly.</p>
+
+<p>The after-cabin was warmed, and here the fir-tree was put together.
+The men persevered with the work, and there was not one among them but
+put some finishing touches to it; small wax-lights and golden-nuts
+were not wanting. We sat in the small room by a dimly-burning lamp;
+cheerful conversation went round, and pleasanter Christmas enjoyment
+than we had could not well be found. At four o’clock every one was to
+leave the cabin. The walls were decorated with flags, near the sofa
+the finest foxes’ skins were hung up, and the table by the help of
+some chests lengthened as far as the mast. By six all was ready. The
+ship’s bell gave the summons; under the ventilator was a small coloured
+transparency, and from the forecastle a Christmas hymn rose. Then all
+entered the cabin and ranged themselves round the table.</p>
+
+<p>German Christmas in East Greenland ice! There stood the powerful forms
+of big “children,” serious but cheerful, and the finest Christmas-tree
+rose on deck, glittering with lights and gold and silver; and on the
+fresh white table-cloth lay the plates with the gifts upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_389">[389]</span> them; they
+were but trifling things, but they gave much pleasure: small books,
+letter-cases, and so on. Near the tree lay a large harmonica “for the
+men;” this, with some balls of cord, in which were enclosed different
+small things, was a present from the ladies of Kiel. On the other side
+stood the complete model of a full-rigged ship, just finished by P.
+Iversen.</p>
+
+<p>Somewhat later followed a hot supper, in which the cook astonished us
+with some delightful cakes. Healths were drunk in foaming wine of the
+Neckar, and at dessert a large chest, which had taken its place in the
+cabin since yesterday, was opened. It contained a valuable present
+from Mainz: a number of bottles of excellent Rhine wine. You should
+have seen the men of the Germania! Heart and mind were in a glow, they
+joked and chattered, speeches were made and healths drunk, and the ship
+resounded with many a hearty cheer. We thought of our loved ones at
+home, our brothers on the Hansa, and our ever dear country!</p>
+
+<p>But we still wanted a song. Each one had his songbook, a gift from the
+publisher, G. Westermann, and—were we not Germans, “Vereint zur frohen
+Stunde”? So it was not long before we had a song. Was it a warning that
+the “Wacht am Rhein” should resound in the Arctic night?</p>
+
+<p>As it was a wonderfully warm, soft air, the suggestion of a dance on
+the ice received universal approbation. Soon we were dancing merrily
+on the white snow, whilst the boatman, wrapped in a reindeer’s skin,
+played the new harmonica with an artist’s hand.</p>
+
+<p>More bottles were opened, more healths drunk, and midnight had passed
+before we retired to rest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_390">[390]</span></p>
+
+<p>The last week in the year passed without any particular event. Twice
+Boreas visited us again, but he seemed to have lost his energy, for
+he dropped after about ten hours, causing no further disturbance. The
+temperature remained high the whole time, and on the 27th even reached
+28° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the year came to an end, and with brighter expectations could we
+look forward to the future.</p>
+
+<p>St. Silvester’s Eve<a id="FNanchor_58" href="#Footnote_58" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> passed in the usual manner; we sat cheerfully
+together over our wine, amusing ourselves with the innocent game of
+pouring the lead, and so on, while awaiting the twelfth hour, when
+with the clinking of the glasses we expressed reciprocal wishes for
+the fulfilment of our hopes and for the success of our expedition.
+The astronomers had calculated when the midnight hour would reach the
+different places in Germany; so each individual had a particular touch
+of the glasses, and “To what we love best” at home. The kind givers
+were not forgotten, nor our comrades of the Hansa, whom we believed had
+long since run into the Weser.</p>
+
+<p>Quickly the hours passed, and one after the other sought his hard
+couch.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_391">[391]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.<br>
+<span class="subhed">FIRST MONTH OF THE YEAR 1870.<a id="FNanchor_59" href="#Footnote_59" class="fnanchor">[58]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Lethargy.—The Arctic winter.—Mid-day twilight.—Meteorological
+observations.—Plans for spring travelling.—Fur
+dresses.—Klentzer pursued by a bear.—The ship on
+fire.—Snowdrift.—Promise of the sun’s reappearance.—Sunrise
+on 3rd February.—Northern Lights.—Hunting.—The days
+lengthen.—Low temperature.—Spring-tide.—The ship
+aground.—Börgen wounded by a bear.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The new year had now begun, and we had greeted it with new thoughts,
+new plans and hopes. Nearly six months had we already spent on the
+coast—a short time judging from results—but long enough, with the
+help of the experience gained, to prepare for the promised excursions
+in the coming summer. Half of the dreaded Arctic night was over,
+without either body or mind being materially influenced by it; and if
+the coldest time still lay before us, it had lost its terrors.</p>
+
+<p>The holidays were faithfully kept as a period of rest. The whole of
+us experienced great weariness, and, upon giving way to it, we could
+plainly see, what every one knew long since, that in Arctic regions one
+can take any amount of sleep.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, everything went on regularly. A<span class="pagenum" id="Page_392">[392]</span> new number of the
+paper appeared on Sunday, which, by its diminutive size, showed the
+decrease of material.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Tramnitz and Dr. Copeland went hunting, and brought home four
+ptarmigan, objects as welcome to the unaccustomed stomach as to the
+long-idle hands of the zoologists. The collection was increased by a
+few skins, and examinations made as to the food of these native birds
+of the extreme north. The crops of all were full, and were about the
+size of a boy’s fist. The contents consisted chiefly of young willow
+shoots, only here and there by chance was a little moss, or a few
+leaves and dry sprouts of a species of saxifrage and other shrubs. Thus
+while in summer, as we have seen, the ptarmigan feeds on fresh herbs
+and seeds, which it finds on the mountains, in winter time it confines
+itself to the willow, which is easily obtainable.</p>
+
+<p>The 3rd of January was still a dark, foggy day; truly there is
+something very solemn in this universal silence, this unbroken sleep
+of organic nature. “The stillness of an Arctic winter,” writes First
+Lieutenant Payer, “has something awful about it; the gloomy shade under
+which life passes, without one charm, is burdensome to the spirit.
+Every sound of creation is silenced; the whispering and gurgling of the
+springs and brooks have died away; the breaking of the waves is mute;
+the waterfall stands motionless against the cold wall of rock; the
+plants, choked under their covering of snow, seem for ever destroyed.
+Animals that had migrated, either to the outer edge of the pack-ice
+or to milder latitudes, have withdrawn to the interior or begun their
+winter sleep. No faint sunshine colours the heights, shedding its beams
+on the glistening masses of ice on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_393">[393]</span> the golden mirror of the sea. Forms
+and colours are tinged with gloom; a universal winding-sheet enwraps
+every form of nature, over which broods the icy night; the stars,
+twinkling brightly, shed their cold light; ghost-like stand out the
+shadowy snowy walls of the mountains from the black edge of the rock;
+sullenly rise the crested rocks in the night; snow-flakes glide in
+noiseless monotony on to the still cold earth, and on to the ice-deck,
+which has bound our ship for months. The deck is laden with snow; masts
+and yards stretch their coal-black arms to heaven; frost hangs to the
+ropes in tender crystal webs; the helm is buried under blocks of ice.”
+We easily lose ourselves in a feeling of utter desertion in the midst
+of these lifeless surroundings, and the heavy leaden-grey of the sky
+is reflected in our painfully-oppressed spirits. One must be more than
+mortal not to be occasionally overcome by such feelings, though with us
+they were but of short duration; besides which, the time of perpetual
+darkness was quickly drawing to a close. That we proved the next day,
+when in -22° we were surrounded by a bright light sky, with numerous
+and beautiful pictures of Arctic light. The noonday twilight was so
+strong that for an hour we fancied it was really daylight, and on the
+10th, at seven a.m., the beginning of dawn in the eastern sky proved
+it to be correct. This fine, clear weather lasted to the 16th, and was
+highly acceptable to the astronomers: the cold, however, increased, and
+the thermometer sank to -26.50° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>It was already settled that, as soon as practicable—we thought about
+the beginning of March—our great journey should begin, geography
+being its main object, by following the coast-line northward, thus
+accomplishing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_394">[394]</span> our chief task, in the instructions of the expedition,
+on the ice, as with the ship it had been proved to be unsuccessful.</p>
+
+<p>For this journey, which it need not be said was under Captain
+Koldewey’s direction, eight men were necessary. We considered that we
+might dispense with the necessity of establishing provision-stores,
+and therefore decided that a second sledge, under Mr. Sengstacke’s
+direction, should accompany them for some days on their journey, and
+somewhat later the circuit of the astronomers would begin, having
+geodetical measurements for their object, and not until after the
+return from the north should any more sledge journeys be arranged for
+the exploration of the interior of Greenland. The great difficulty
+of all these undertakings we could not disguise from ourselves. Not
+only was the want of dogs greatly felt, but numbers of other matters
+necessary for winter sledging.</p>
+
+<p>On the ship, as has been already said, reigned cheerfulness and
+unwearied activity; there was tailoring and shoemaking, carpentering
+and smiths’ work going on from morning till night. We next went
+to work upon the clothing. For the degree of cold we had hitherto
+experienced, nothing was better than the woollen things we had, but
+only when the air was quiet; for in a high wind the body, in spite
+of all motion, became stiff and cold in a very short time. On our
+contemplated journey, however, we must be in a position to brave all
+weathers, so out came the fur. As the long fur-coats, reaching to the
+feet, were quite useless, they were taken to pieces, and fresh, short,
+tight-fitting coats lined with wool were made. The fur hoods remained
+unaltered; the boots, however, were thrown aside, as they so soon get
+hard and uncomfortable. These were replaced by an irregular manufacture
+composed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_395">[395]</span> of sail-cloth lined with woollen stuff, with leathern soles,
+which we had on board. Then the tent must be worked at and enlarged in
+proportion; the fur sacks also and coverings for our sleeping-place
+had to be sewn. We need scarcely say that the school of navigation was
+carried on as industriously as ever.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th, as in the morning twilight our engineer, who was entrusted
+with the melting apparatus, was returning alone with the sledge,
+heavily burdened with snow, from the Germaniaberg to the ship—he
+looked round him, and suddenly saw, at a little distance, a bear
+slowly following him. Struck with terror, he hastily left the sledge
+and hurried forward to the ship, the creature following him for some
+distance, and then turning back. Scarcely had the fact transpired when,
+in a moment, all were in motion, and soon a number of well-armed forms
+were hurrying in all directions to the land—the irresistible charm of
+bear-hunting urging them on. But Bruin did not seem inclined to face
+our heroes, and, after a short hour, the hunters returned disappointed.</p>
+
+<p>Thus this bear adventure ended as happily as all former ones had
+done. But much more serious was the position into which, a short time
+afterwards, one of our sailors was betrayed. On the morning of the
+13th, Theodor Klentzer, during the time the men were busied without,
+or were obliged to take their daily walk, climbed the Germaniaberg
+to view the landscape in the increasing mid-day light. Reaching the
+top, he seated himself on a rock, and sang a song in the still air.
+As he looked behind him, however, he saw, not many steps off, a huge
+bear, which with great gravity was watching the stranger. Now to our
+“Theodor,” who was as quiet and decided a man<span class="pagenum" id="Page_396">[396]</span> as he was powerful,
+this would, under other circumstances, have been nothing; for the bear
+stood wonderfully well for a shot, and could not easily be missed, but
+Klentzer was totally unarmed; not having even a knife! Incredible! is
+it not? But as Lieut. Payer writes, “the bears always come when one has
+forgotten all about them.”</p>
+
+<p>Thus Klentzer saw himself unarmed and alone, far from his companions,
+and close to the bear. Flight is the only, though a doubtful, chance
+of safety, and the audacious thought struck him of plunging down the
+steep side of the glacier; but he chose the softer side-slope, and
+began to hurry down the mountain. Upon looking back, after a time, he
+perceived the great bear trotting behind him at a little distance,
+like a great dog. Thus they descended the mountain for some time. If
+Klentzer halted, so did the bear; when he went on, the bear followed
+slowly; if he began to run, the bear did the same. Thus the two had
+gone some distance, and Klentzer thought seriously of saving himself,
+as the bear, finding the chase somewhat wearisome, might press close
+upon his heels. He therefore uttered a loud shout, but the bear, only
+disconcerted for a moment, seemed to get more angry and approached
+quicker, so that he seemed to feel the hot breath of the monster. At
+this dreadful moment—and it was most likely his preservation—he
+remembered the stories he had heard, and, while running, pulled off his
+jacket, throwing it behind him. And see! the trick answers: the bear
+stops and begins to examine the jacket. Klentzer gains courage, rushes
+on down the mountain, sending out a shout for help, which resounds
+through the silent region. But soon the bear is again at his heels, and
+he must throw away cap and waistcoat, by which he gains a little. Now
+Klentzer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_397">[397]</span> sees help approaching—several friends hurrying over the ice.
+Collecting his last strength, he shouts and runs on. But help seems in
+vain, for the pursuer hurries too, and he is obliged to take the last
+thing he has, his shawl, which he throws exactly over the monster’s
+snout, who, more excited still by renewed shouting, throws it back
+again contemptuously with a toss of the head, and presses forward upon
+the defenceless man, who feels his cold black snout touch his hand.
+Klentzer now gave himself up for lost; he could do no more; but the
+wonderful thought struck him of fastening up the bear’s throat with
+the leathern belt which he wore round his body. Fixedly he stared into
+the merciless eyes of the beast—one short moment of doubt—the bear
+was startled, his attention seemed drawn aside, and the next moment
+he was off at a gallop. The shouts of the many hurrying to the rescue
+had evidently frightened him. Klentzer was saved by a miracle. We had
+all hurried out just as we sat below, without coats or caps—indeed,
+some were in their stockings. The terrified creature fled on to the
+ice, where he received a cross-fire, then turned hither and thither,
+and made for Cairn Point. Some of the bullets must have struck him,
+for he collapsed, and we thought it was all over. But he rallied the
+next moment, and climbed the steep bank with huge strides, and, leaving
+traces of blood on the open ice, hurried to the sea. Glad and thankful,
+our full number were soon seated at the mid-day meal, praising a good
+Providence who had saved our brave companion from death. From the
+effects of this day several suffered slightly from pains in the chest,
+and Mr. Sengstacke and P. Iversen had large frost-blisters on their
+feet. No wonder, when they had run about in stockinged feet for a whole
+hour and a half!</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_398">[398]</span></p>
+
+<p>But a danger of quite another sort threatened us—fire on board!</p>
+
+<p>On the 11th, when, as usual, all were in the cabin engaged in reading
+and smoking, some having already sought their berths, about a quarter
+to nine a slight smell of burning at the lower end of the cabin was
+perceived. It seemed to spring from the stove, in the fender of which
+things often fell and smouldered. But as Dr. Copeland went at nine
+o’clock to the meteorological reading, he noticed a stronger smell
+and smoke upon the stairs, and, hurrying on deck, was met by a thick
+vapour. There could no longer be any doubt; there was fire somewhere,
+and the fireplace in the after-cabin must be the place, as it had been
+heated for the tailoring. Quickly all hands were to the fore; buckets
+and vessels of all kinds were brought out; and while some fetched water
+from the tide-hole, others pulled off the top and saw at once the white
+flames quivering through the smoke. Some few pails of water soon put
+it out, and in about a quarter of an hour all was over. Deck-beams and
+deck-planks were burnt, and charts were smoking; had not help come so
+speedily, the fire would have burnt through to the coal-bunkers.</p>
+
+<p>After this interruption, everything resumed its usual course, and on
+the 18th the travelling-tent was raised for trial. The weather remained
+pretty steady to the end of the month. Clear skies alternated with
+cloudy atmospheres, and from time to time Boreas sought us, though only
+for a short spell of fury. On the 17th a great deal of snow fell with
+stormy weather, so that for the first time the land was quite white,
+and the astronomers had the great pleasure of once more clearing the
+observatory. The 27th was the same, when a raging snow-storm lasted
+several hours. It<span class="pagenum" id="Page_399">[399]</span> was a good thing for us that we could tell the
+approach of such storms beforehand; the quick over-casting of the
+heavens, the light south wind, the rising of the thermometer, and the
+falling of the barometer, never left us in doubt as to what to expect,
+and we always had time for preparations.</p>
+
+<p>An observation which we had made several times in snow-drifting
+deserves to be mentioned. For instance, when out in such strong
+snow-drifts, one feels completely suffocated, as if the snow held back
+the breath by force, and pierced deep into the lungs. This feeling is
+of course stronger when facing the wind; it is even sensibly felt when
+the wind is at the back. Wind without snow-drift has not this effect.
+So striking was this that it was often and on all sides remarked.
+Through these almost uninterrupted storms our scientific work was
+still carried on as far as possible. This was mainly astronomical
+and magnetic; but others, too, were begun; for instance—experiments
+upon the speed of sound. The thickness of the ice at this time (20th
+January) measured fifty-three English inches. The zoological collection
+obtained an increase from some small crabs (<i>Copepodæ</i>), which
+were caught in the tide-hole, and were found to be the source of the
+shining we had so often observed. This was indeed an interesting
+appearance. When the ice in the tide-hole was removed, it glistened in
+many places like phosphorus, and then slowly disappeared. These small
+crabs were tumbling about in water one degree below the freezing-point,
+nearly under the much colder ice, and when they were taken out with the
+surrounding ice, and it was melted in the cabin, they soon died.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the month of January drew to a close. The daylight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_400">[400]</span> grew longer
+and more intense. The great epoch of the reappearing of the sun, the
+3rd of February (as the astronomers had calculated), came nearer and
+nearer, and our expectation rose from day to day.</p>
+
+<p>Since the 30th of January the astronomers had gone daily to the
+Hasenberg to convince themselves whether their calculations were
+correct, or whether, perhaps, a particularly strong refraction, owing
+to the state of the atmosphere, would hasten the appearance of the sun
+by some days.</p>
+
+<p>At last the 3rd of February had arrived, and long before noon all were
+on the look-out. Dr. Börgen was in the observatory, and Dr. Copeland
+and Captain Koldewey had climbed the Germaniaberg. It was with very
+solemn feelings that we awaited the appearance of the sun. Our thoughts
+flew over the sunless three months, as we contemplated the shadowless
+objects around, but our eyes turned again instinctively to the south,
+where it was ever getting lighter and lighter. To our great joy the
+horizon here was quite clear; only a few clouds stood in the heavens.
+These added to the beauty of the scene, for they were of the brightest
+red and yellow.</p>
+
+<p>The noontide hour approached. Full of expectation and curiosity, the
+men appeared from time to time on the stairs to look for the sun; some
+mounted the topmast, to enjoy the pleasure somewhat sooner. Attentively
+we looked around, for at such a time nothing should escape one. The
+southern horizon grew ever brighter, and at last, almost blinded, we
+had to turn away our eyes; but the glance rests in the south-west
+at first, doubtful and questioning, and then in joyous certainty we
+shout to one another, “There it is!” The Sattelberg already lies in
+the sunshine! And indeed in faint reddish, but unmistakable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_401">[401]</span> sunshine
+does this height glitter above the other deeply-shaded mountains. More
+decided grows the light now, and in a short time the same beautiful
+spectacle is repeated on the Hasenberg and the other chief heights of
+the island, and from them it descends to the plains; and as we look
+around, the resuscitated orb of day shines full upon us.</p>
+
+<p>Moved to the depths of our hearts, we thought to look our full upon
+the sun, but the long-unseen light was blinding, the eyes could not
+bear it, and we were compelled to have protecting-glasses before we
+could tell whether the sun’s disc was as yet really above the horizon.
+Nevertheless, its influence was strong enough, as we turned our backs
+to it, to show the whole island and the near mainland in complete
+daylight. It was a joyous and a glorious sight. Invigorating were
+the effects of its first rays as they fell upon us, as were also the
+effects upon the landscape. For as, until now, the whole mountain
+panorama lay in one uniform coloured dark mass, except now and then, in
+the bright moonlight, when some glaring lights and shades stood out,
+and even the brightest twilight could scarcely individualize an object,
+now every part and outline of the mountain-chain stood prominently
+forward; the projections were elevated, and the distant points receded;
+and this now beautiful living landscape was flooded with the softest
+colours—red, violet, blue, and green in all shades—according to
+the strength of the light, the kind of ground, and the nature of the
+surroundings. But our pleasure was destined to be of short duration,
+for the sun soon disappeared again behind the jagged horizon of ice,
+and the gloomy uniform greyish-blue<span class="pagenum" id="Page_402">[402]</span> shadows descended one after the
+other on the wintry landscape.</p>
+
+<p>We must not forget to mention that the first reappearance of the sun
+was accompanied by two very faint and not easily detected parhelia.
+What would most strike a scientific mind was the wonderful prismatic
+colours of the clouds, the easternmost of which, lying towards that
+side of Walrus Island, rose above the very highest of its peaks. It was
+peculiar that, however distinctly we could see these parhelia, a person
+looking directly above another’s head could not with all his endeavours
+perceive them. The air, which at seven a.m. was this day -8.95°, cooled
+considerably later, and at noon the thermometer fell to -22.67°.</p>
+
+<p>The new sunshine afforded us for the first time an uninterrupted
+view over the icy sea. From Germaniaberg one could see how during
+this winter the ice had been loosened almost close to the coast from
+Klein-Pendulum to Flache Bay. To the extent of from one to three
+nautical miles along the land lay the young ice, which might be torn
+up by the first storm. Beyond lay the pack-ice—a broad, unbounded,
+snow-covered mass, separated, as far as the eye could reach, by neither
+fissure nor interval.</p>
+
+<p>A few fine, bright days now followed one another with a temperature of
+from -4° to -22° Fahr. We enjoyed the light of the newly-risen sun. The
+twilight really lengthened the days, and through the period of darkness
+the Northern Lights shot athwart the heavens, displaying in the clear
+atmosphere a spectacle of rare beauty. But this peaceful scene could
+not last, and on the 5th there were distinct signs of the waking of
+Boreas.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_403">[403]</span> Over the ice lay a slight fog, and the sky clouded quickly
+from the south. More distinctly than ever did the well-known roaring
+reach us, and rising along the stretch of the sea were thick columns
+and clouds of frosty vapour, showing that the icy covering was already
+broken. This was a particularly interesting sight. Dr. Copeland, who
+was on a high mountain on the island at this time, saw the ice by
+Klein-Pendulum break up and drift away. Caught on the heights by the
+north wind, he was obliged to make the best of his way back on account
+of the intense cold, whilst below in the harbour a calm reigned for
+a long time, or a light breeze blew from the south or south-west.
+About noon a few gusts came through from the north, where it had been
+raging since early morning—at first in a clear sky, then in a thick
+atmosphere and snow-drift. This storm, too, which blew violently by the
+hour together, lasted a long time, quite fifty hours, until suddenly,
+as if by a higher command, it fell, and there was a perfect calm. The
+raging of the ice, however, continued, and on the morning of the 9th
+was another six hours’ storm. Then followed days in which wind and
+storm alternated, though work in the open air was not disturbed by it.
+The astronomers had enough to do to bring their geodetical work to a
+satisfactory conclusion during this year. The ground on which the basis
+was to be measured was reconnoitred, the direction and extreme point
+settled upon, and in different places signals were raised, so that,
+later on, the spots from which to measure the triangle would be fixed
+at once. Dr. Pansch undertook the meteorological observations for those
+absent.</p>
+
+<p>Tramnitz frequently went hunting, and shot hares and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_404">[404]</span> ptarmigan. On
+the first bright days the hares gambolled upon the southern slopes
+of the Hasenberg, as if they had never suffered from the long night
+and snow-storms. They, like the ptarmigan, had chosen the tender
+willow-shoots for their food.</p>
+
+<p>The men now prepared eagerly for the intended sledge journey. By the
+middle of February the tent, coverings, furs, and other necessaries,
+were so far finished that they could be laid by the side of the sledge,
+which was already put together. The latter was then laden and tried. It
+was our intention to begin the journey at the commencement of March.
+We expected no real hindrance from the cold, and we lived in the hope
+of happily being able to reach 80° N.L.; we also made a successful
+attempt to sail the sledge. The astronomers had forwarded their work
+so energetically that they hoped to begin their geodetical journey
+about the middle of March. For this all was prepared. The sledges
+caused us the chief trouble, for, except one large one, the others were
+so constructed that for long and difficult journeys they were very
+insufficient. We decided upon building one that should answer every
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The weather in the second half of February remained changeable—now
+fine and clear, now gloomy skies and some falls of snow. The Northern
+Lights shone the whole night through in the loveliest of colours,
+unimpeded by the light of the moon, which often emitted a halo. At
+the same time, light breezes blew from all directions, and only a
+few storms of short duration disturbed our work in the open air.
+Encouraging now was the rapid lengthening of the days. In the middle
+of the month, about five a.m., the first dusky twilight might<span class="pagenum" id="Page_405">[405]</span> be seen
+in the eastern sky, and an hour later a faint trace of daylight spread
+over the country.</p>
+
+<p>On the last of February, at three a.m., it began to brighten in
+the north-east, and at four o’clock the darkness disappeared; the
+temperature of the atmosphere was -13° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>This degree of cold had reached a settled point, which we had never as
+yet observed. Excepting stormy weather, the temperature seldom rose
+above 13° Fahr., and sank more than once below -27° and -31° Fahr. On
+the evening of the 21st of February the thermometer reached its lowest
+point with -40°, which, however, lasted but one hour. This is exactly
+the stage at which quicksilver begins to freeze; but, unfortunately, we
+were not allowed to witness this interesting phenomenon.</p>
+
+<p>A cold of more than -26.50° in a calm was, moreover, quite bearable,
+and we never found any evil effects produced by it. Here again we found
+that, in a still atmosphere, the woollen clothing was best for keeping
+in the warmth of the body; whilst in a cold wind, even many times
+double, it seemed as if we had no clothes on. Under such circumstances,
+fur was the last resource. Also on the throat and lungs the breathing
+of the coldest air seemed to have no evil effect, just as when eating
+frozen things one feels the cold deeper down. We could, coming straight
+from the caboose, breathe with impunity, although the temperature of
+the air varied in one minute from 90° above, to 40° below zero; that
+is a difference of 130 degrees, and yet this is not the extreme by a
+long way. In passing out from the heated dwellings of the Esquimaux, at
+99.50° Fahr., into the cold air of -58° Reaumur, there is a difference
+of quite 157°, and this not only<span class="pagenum" id="Page_406">[406]</span> can the Esquimaux stand, but all
+Europeans who visit these parts.</p>
+
+<p>Although in such a temperature the ship itself was fearfully cold, we
+succeeded as easily as before in keeping warmth in the cabin, and only
+on stormy days did the quantity of coal used exceed 20lbs. or a little
+more. At the cracks of the cabin door so much ice collected that it had
+to be removed once every day, and where the cold wind blew directly on
+the cabin-wall, constant attention was necessary to keep the mattresses
+free from ice and dry.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the observations of temperature at this time are perhaps worth
+noting, as giving the different degrees of cold at different heights.
+On the 22nd Dr. Copeland observed, on a mountain 918 feet high, -25.37°
+Fahr., whilst below it was about 28½°. Above, a strong north wind was
+blowing, of which below we had no sign. Still more interesting is the
+fact that, on the 15th, the astronomers, at a height of more than 1960
+feet, found only 27°, so that from the exertion of climbing they were
+bathed in perspiration. Below, at the same time, it was nearly zero.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th an event happened which, under the circumstances, might
+have endangered the safety of the ship. It was spring-tide; and at the
+lowest ebb the ship grounded. As the ice and the snow wall adhered to
+the ship, we could see the water sink in the tide-hole; and the weight
+of the ice forcing down the vessel was enormous; and had the ground
+been uneven, the stern-post or the rudder must have been damaged. The
+ice was at this time fifty-seven English inches thick.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st, the regular meeting was again held for magnetic readings.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_407">[407]</span></p>
+
+<p>The next few days passed rapidly in preparations for our sledge journey
+to the north, which was settled for the 7th of March. The provisions
+were stowed in sacks, the tent made ready, and the sledge laden for
+a trial trip, which resulted satisfactorily, and the sledge-party
+photographed in different groups, but with indifferent success. During
+this time the usual scientific work was continued; on the 3rd of March
+the astronomers measured the base for their geodetical observations,
+and on the 4th a magnetic meeting was held. On March 6th an incident
+occurred which threw everything else into the shade.</p>
+
+<p>“We were sitting (writes Lieut. Payer) fortunately silent in the cabin,
+when Koldewey suddenly heard a faint cry for help. We all hurriedly
+tumbled up the companion-ladder to the deck, when an exclamation from
+Börgen, ‘A bear is carrying me off!’ struck painfully on our ears.</p>
+
+<p>“It was quite dark; we could scarcely see anything, but we made
+directly for the quarter whence the cry proceeded, armed with poles,
+weapons, &amp;c., over hummocks and drifts, when an alarm-shot, which
+we fired in the air, seemed to make some little impression, as the
+bear dropped his prey, and ran forward a few paces. He turned again,
+however, dragging his victim over the broken shore-ice, close to a
+field which stretched in a southerly direction. All depended upon our
+coming up with him before he should reach this field, as he would
+carry his prey over the open plain with the speed of a horse, and thus
+escape. We succeeded. The bear turned upon us for a moment, and then,
+scared by our continuous fire, let fall his prey.</p>
+
+<p>“We lifted our poor comrade up on to the ice, to bear him to his
+cabin—a task which was rendered somewhat<span class="pagenum" id="Page_408">[408]</span> difficult by the slippery
+and uneven surface of the ice. But after we had gone a little way,
+Börgen implored us to make as much haste as possible. On procuring a
+light, the coldest nature would have been shocked at the spectacle
+which poor Börgen presented. The bear had torn his scalp in several
+places, and he had received several injuries in other parts of his
+body. His clothes and hair were saturated with blood. We improvised a
+couch for him in the rear of our own cabin, as his own was not large
+enough.</p>
+
+<p>“The first operation was performed upon him on the cabin table. And
+here we may briefly notice the singular fact that, although he had
+been carried more than 100 paces with his skull almost laid bare, at
+a temperature of -13° Fahr., his scalp healed so perfectly that not a
+single portion was missing.” So far Lieut. Payer.</p>
+
+<p>But let us hear what Börgen has to say for himself upon the
+subject:—“About a quarter before nine p.m. I had gone out to observe
+the occultation of a star, which was to take place about that time,
+and also to take the meteorological readings. As I was in the act of
+getting on shore, Capt. Koldewey came on to the ice. We spoke for a few
+moments, when I went on shore, while he returned to the cabin. On my
+return from the observatory, about fifty steps from the vessel, I heard
+a rustling noise to the left, and became aware of the proximity of a
+bear. There was no time to think, or use my gun. The grip was so sudden
+and rapid, that I am unable to say how it was done; whether the bear
+rose and struck me down with his fore-paws, or whether he ran me down.
+But from the character of the injuries I have sustained (contusions and
+a deep cut on the left ear), I conclude<span class="pagenum" id="Page_409">[409]</span> that the former must have been
+the case. The next thing I felt was the tearing of my scalp, which was
+only protected by a skull-cap. This is their mode of attacking seals,
+but, owing to the slipperiness of their skulls, the teeth glide off.
+The cry for help which I uttered frightened the animal for a moment;
+but he turned again and bit me several times on the head.<a id="FNanchor_60" href="#Footnote_60" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> The
+alarm had meanwhile been heard by the captain, who had not yet reached
+the cabin. He hurried on deck, convinced himself that it was really
+an alarm, roused up the crew and hastened on to the ice, bringing
+assistance to his struggling comrade. The noise evidently frightened
+the bear, and he trotted off with his prey, which he dragged by the
+head. A shot fired to frighten the creature effected its purpose,
+inasmuch as he dropped me, and sprang a few steps aside; but he
+immediately seized me by the arm, and, his hold proving insufficient,
+he seized me by the right hand, on which was a fur glove,<a id="FNanchor_61" href="#Footnote_61" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> and this
+gave the pursuers time to come up with the brute, which had by its
+great speed left them far behind. He was now making for the shore,
+and would certainly have escaped with his prey, had he succeeded in
+climbing the bank. However, as he came to the edge of the ice, he
+turned along the coast side, continuing on the rough and broken ice,
+which greatly retarded his speed, and thus allowed his pursuers upon
+the ice to gain rapidly upon him. After being dragged<span class="pagenum" id="Page_410">[410]</span> in this way
+for about 300 paces, almost strangled by my shawl, which the bear had
+seized at the same time, he dropped me, and immediately afterwards
+Koldewey was bending over me with the words, ‘Thank God! he is still
+alive!’ The bear stood a few paces on one side, evidently undecided
+what course to pursue, until a bullet gave him a hint that it was high
+time to take himself off.</p>
+
+<p>“No one thought of pursuing him, for their first care was to carry
+the wounded man on board, whither the doctor and Herr Tramnitz had
+gone in order to prepare the requisites for binding up the wounds. The
+main injuries were in the head, where, amongst numerous other wounds
+from the bites, two especially from four to six inches long ran along
+the scalp, the edges of which hung loose, leaving the skull bare for
+one-third to two-fifths of an inch. The other wounds, about twenty
+in number, were in part caused by striking against the fragments and
+rough broken edges of the ice. It is worth while mentioning that,
+neither during the act of receiving the wounds nor during the process
+of healing, which progressed favourably, did I experience the smallest
+pain.<a id="FNanchor_62" href="#Footnote_62" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> The next day, upon the ice, at some distance from the scene
+of the accident, the chronometer<a id="FNanchor_63" href="#Footnote_63" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> and the gun were found,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_411">[411]</span> showing
+the force of the blow, and also the sail-cloth boots, which had dropped
+off while crossing the ice.</p>
+
+<p>“This accident was an additional proof how dangerous it was ever to go
+out alone in the dark; for weapons are but of little avail if one is
+not aware of the approach of the animal. This precaution, which was,
+as a rule, strictly observed, was in my case neglected simply because
+the next day the whole crew were to start on a sledge expedition to the
+north, which had now to be postponed for a day.”<a id="FNanchor_64" href="#Footnote_64" class="fnanchor">[63]</a></p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_412">[412]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER X.<br>
+<span class="subhed">LONG SLEDGE JOURNEY ALONG THE COAST NORTHWARDS—DISCOVERY OF KING
+WILLIAM’S ISLAND—MARCH 8TH TO APRIL 27TH, 1870.<a id="FNanchor_65" href="#Footnote_65" class="fnanchor">[64]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Object and result of these sledge journeys.—Equipment and
+clothing.—Tent.—Departure.—Provisions.—Discipline on the
+march.—Hardships.—Refraction.—Parhelia.—Difficulties of
+sledge-dragging.—Tent-pitching.—Snow-blindness.—Return
+to the ship.—Second start.—Return of the companion
+sledge.—Hochstetter’s Foreland.—Geological excursion.—Cape
+Oswald Heer.—Ascent of the Haystack.—Bear-hunting.—Reaching
+of 76° N. Lat—Cape Carl Ritter.—Remains of Esquimaux
+summer-huts.—Cape Peschel.—Roon Bay.—Icebergs.—The Devil’s
+Cape.—Parhelia in Roon Bay.—Desert of snow.—Eastern
+Island.—Dove Bay.—Mountain-chain and glaciers on the
+west of it.—Erratic blocks on Eastern Island.—Cape
+Heligoland.—Storm Bay.—Passion-week.—Violent storm.—77°
+N. Lat. passed.—Virgin soil.—Erection of a cairn on
+the northernmost point reached.—Depositing a document
+therein.—Want of necessaries.—Want remedied by killing two
+musk-oxen.—Snow-storm.—The midnight sun.—Difficulties of
+Arctic sledge journeys.—Geological formation of the Island at
+Cape Peschel.—Peter Ellinger taken ill.—Payer and Ellinger
+on forwards.—First salutation of spring.—Return to the
+ship.—Results of the journey.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Sledge journeys, particularly in spring-time, are attended by great
+expenditure of strength and troubles of all kinds. A day’s progress
+by ship would take a week in a sledge; indeed, sometimes with almost
+superhuman strength,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_413">[413]</span> not more than a few hundred paces can be made in
+a day.</p>
+
+<p>Such journeys must also always be made on the frozen sea or on the
+Fjords. Overland sledge journeys are impossible in East Greenland, on
+account of the unevenness of the ground and the insufficiency of snow.
+The most favourable time is the autumn. In winter, the long Arctic
+night effectually frustrates every excursion. In spring they are made
+more difficult by the intensity of the cold, and for at least three
+parts of the time by terrific snow-storms, and in the beginning of
+summer the changing of the snow into water, or snow-bog.</p>
+
+<p>For nine months and a half our ship, surrounded and fast bound by the
+ice, was the only place of refuge for such expeditions, during which
+we could not rely upon any means of subsistence from land, but only
+on the chance good fortune of the hunt. Everything had therefore to
+be taken with us; and the heavily-laden sledge was indeed the ship of
+the desert, the loss of which would carry all with it. The quantity of
+provisions to be taken also set a limit upon our excursions, as well as
+the knowledge that each man, even under favourable circumstances, could
+only carry two hundred weight.</p>
+
+<p>The north-east coast of Greenland is so completely uninhabited, that it
+was impossible to obtain dog-sledges; so we had to drag them ourselves,
+which we did on five journeys which occupied three months, and in which
+we traversed nearly a thousand nautical miles. Clothing and outfit also
+requires great care, as on these expeditions the explorer has for weeks
+together to brave a temperature sometimes below -24° Fahr. Snow-hoods,
+masks, coats of sealskin, boots of sail-cloth (leathern boots are not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_414">[414]</span>
+pliable, and crack in the frost) lined with flannel, stockings soled
+with flannel, were prepared, and every precaution taken.</p>
+
+<p>Each man had two woollen shirts (the under one having a piece of skin
+with the hair inside sewn to it), trousers lined with fur, a thick
+vest with sleeves, two pairs of woollen drawers, three pairs of warm
+stockings, a water-tight sealskin coat—the hair outside, and by many
+drawn over the head, with only the hole at the throat, to keep out the
+wind and cold. Besides this, each wore a knitted hood, fitting close,
+to which was fastened the flannel mask, with small openings for the
+eyes and mouth, and the nose protected; over this a large fur hood,
+only showing a small portion of the face; a pair of knitted woollen
+gloves, inside of which were fur gloves; and, lastly, a shawl—all this
+as protection against the cold.</p>
+
+<p>The clothing is provided with large sail-cloth pockets, the one in the
+coat being always filled with cartridges. Snow spectacles were worn on
+the march, those of a smoky grey colour being the best.<a id="FNanchor_66" href="#Footnote_66" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> Our tent
+was of light sail-cloth, the weight of which we had brought down to
+forty pounds, and was quite filled with the general sleeping-sack of
+sheepskin. For preparing our meals we had a cooking apparatus and a
+saucepan, with sixty bottles of spirit as fuel,—wood or coal being too
+heavy.</p>
+
+<p>The necessary quantity of provisions for each week was divided into
+sacks, each containing coffee, chocolate, boiled beef, ham, butter,
+suet, salt, dry black bread,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_415">[415]</span> pemmican extract of meat, beans, lentils,
+peas, barley, flour mixed with melted butter, and twenty bottles of
+brandy. The pulse was cooked on board, left on deck to freeze, then
+chopped in pieces, and thrown into the sack. Our medicine-chest only
+provided for three diseases, frost-bite, dysentery, and bad eyes; five
+pounds of private luggage were allowed for each man, and the three
+guns, with 200 cartridges, formed what may be termed the dead weight.</p>
+
+<p>Well, it is the 8th of March. Some days before we had made a trial
+trip, and it had proved most satisfactory; there seemed no prospect of
+change in the temperature, which was the lowest we ever observed in
+East Greenland, being 24° to 35.50° Fahr. below zero, and, still less
+hope of the cessation of those time-thieving, indescribably dreadful
+snow-storms. But time is too precious; we have already ten hours’
+daylight; the sledge is packed, and we begin the journey.</p>
+
+<p>The weather is lovely. A moderate wind blows from the north over the
+hard snowy covering, along which the sledge glides, now with hoarse
+and now with ringing tones. At the next rocky projection, beyond which
+the ship can no longer be seen, our companions, who have given us the
+customary escort, return; and we continue our journey alone.</p>
+
+<p>The eye soon gets weary of the brightness of the white surface and the
+uniformity of the landscape. Chains of mountains, stretching along the
+coast from ten to fifteen nautical miles off, are seen day after day.
+From insignificant elevations there rise, in the course of a few hours,
+over the endless snowy surface, stately icebergs, behind which huge
+snow-drifts have accumulated. A short stay in the dry cold air causes
+a painful dryness in the larynx<span class="pagenum" id="Page_416">[416]</span> and mouth, whilst the very cold but
+slightly damp air is exhaled with perfect comfort.</p>
+
+<p>It is very difficult to keep a straight course when the snowy surface
+is covered with a peculiar layer of low fog, which, however, seldom
+happens in the spring, as in a violent fall of snow nothing can be done
+but by the compass, and this tiring way of proceeding can often only be
+employed when an iceberg is for a moment visible, as offering a direct
+object of sight.</p>
+
+<p>The great inequality in the warmth of the atmosphere, or unequal
+thickness of the atmospheric layers above the ice, produces the
+strangest distortions of the land, by means of refraction, causing
+objects still below the horizon to be distinctly seen.</p>
+
+<p>During our voyage in the pack-ice in 1869, we saw some most astonishing
+phenomena—column-shaped groups of ice towering aloft, often resembling
+the ruins of a town; basins of water shut in by the ice, all of which
+were below the edge of the horizon; and once a vessel, which seemed to
+stand as four, one above another.</p>
+
+<p>Still more interesting is the effect upon a land picture. Now appears
+a high, remote island, without any disfiguration of its contour,
+apparently set up on a plinth at least 900 feet high; or a completely
+dome-shaped mountain is turned into a square, the outlines of the ridge
+assuming a dreadfully wild character, every top threatening to fall
+over; or the distorted picture acquires a rapid motion, growing as
+high again; or creating the delusive picture of a land which certainly
+existed, but not where we expected to find it (<i>Fata Morgana</i>).
+Thus, in Lat. 77° we for a whole day were advancing to a land, the
+individual features of which—such as snow-furrows and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_417">[417]</span> rocks—were
+incontestably seen by all; but upon leaving our tents in the evening it
+had all disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly resembling this, in a physical point of view, we frequently
+observed, during our spring sledge-journey, parhelia, or mock suns,
+caused by the refraction of the sun’s light by the ice-crystals
+floating in the upper strata of air. These mock suns sometimes form a
+double circle round the sun, with a coloured bow beyond, and horizontal
+stripes of light emanating from the sun itself. The inner part of this
+bow is always red, the outer shading off into pale green and a very
+light sky-blue. The first circle is bright yellow within; the second
+of a yellowish grey. This phenomenon only takes place in a yellow,
+vapourish atmosphere, with horizontal strata, and a somewhat cloudy sky.</p>
+
+<p>It was, however, too dangerous to give our undivided attention to
+this wonderful phenomenon of nature to the neglect of all surrounding
+objects; for, though these appearances are frequent, bears are more
+frequent still. Indeed, bear-hunting took its turn in our hunting-roll,
+and some of us more than once narrowly escaped being torn to pieces.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst other disagreeables of an Arctic sledge-journey is its
+monotony. The ideas and wishes contained within the limited horizon of
+life in the Arctic-world pass as quickly away as the eye is wearied by
+the monotony of the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>Conversation carried on by men straining at the traces can certainly
+not be very animated. The frost prevents smoking, for the pipes freeze.
+There is a continued conflict against the loss of warmth; and the cold
+penetrates in a hundred different ways. Now the chin is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_418">[418]</span> numbed, a
+painful straining of the forehead sets in, or a violent pricking of
+the nostrils, which are exposed to the wind. Sometimes one stands in
+danger of the heels, the toes, or the hands being frost-bitten. The
+hair of the face, and even the eyelashes, get hoar with frost—indeed,
+the eyes are often completely closed—and every frozen spot on the body
+must at once be rubbed with lumps of snow resembling pumice-stone,
+until a warm, pricking glow succeeds. When, as in the case of many of
+our party, the frozen hands or feet were not rubbed with snow until
+too late, it led to numerous blisters. The fingers swelled up into
+lumps, and became quite numbed; but the noses (the whole eight of
+which were frozen) were more fortunate; they emerged from a white into
+a red stage of enlarged dimensions, were eventually covered with a
+parchment-like skin, remaining for some time most sensitive, and by
+slow degrees regained their normal condition, so that by the time we
+landed in Europe they were all right again. The heat of our bodies,
+which we did our best to retain by warm woollen clothes, was carried
+away in a moment by the slightest wind; and if it increased, the cold
+crept between every button of our sealskin clothing; the penetrating
+icy wind was felt at every stitch, the arms hung down like lead, deadly
+cold, and no one dared to walk without a mask. If the wind rose still
+more, curtains of penetrating snow-crystals rose with it from the
+ground; then a snow-storm, which always comes from the north, might be
+expected, announcing itself by a lofty white appearance in the south,
+the violet colour and close proximity of the mountains, and low-hanging
+clouds. But still we risk the march forward against the thickening
+snow, until painful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_419">[419]</span> breathing and stiffening limbs warn us to pitch
+our tent.</p>
+
+<p>Under ordinary circumstances this was done about six or seven p.m.,
+on a smooth surface. A hole was quickly dug with shovels, on which
+the tent was erected, and the dugout blocks of snow laid round it for
+safety against the storm, and the sledge placed as a shield to the
+north. The tent was kept upright by means of four long poles, each
+crossed at the top, stretched by ropes fastened to axes or piles driven
+into the ground. When the sleeping-sack had been laid down in the tent,
+our personal baggage settled, the kettle filled with blocks of snow by
+the cook, the lamp lit, and the rations given out, our comrades, who,
+owing to the increased cold since the setting of the sun, had meanwhile
+been running and jumping to keep themselves warm, were allowed to enter.</p>
+
+<p>During our last half-hour’s march, each man had been busy thawing his
+beard with his hands, for it had been changed into a lump of ice, so
+that it might not melt whilst the cooking was going on, and so wet
+their clothes and coverings. As soon as all were in their places in the
+tent the aperture was closed, and preparations made for passing the
+night.</p>
+
+<p>The stiff sail-cloth boots, fast frozen to the stockings which were to
+form our pillows, were thawed between the hands, and with difficulty
+taken off; the stockings, thick with rimy snow, were scraped, then
+wrung and laid upon the breast, to dry by our only available means—our
+bodily heat—so as to prepare them for the following day’s work.</p>
+
+<p>At last all have wriggled themselves into the sleeping-sack, each one
+lying partly on his neighbour, and in this modest space waiting for the
+evening meal.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_420">[420]</span></p>
+
+<p>The first hour is spent in melting the snow, the second in preparing
+the meal, which is devoured eagerly, and as cool as possible. The
+development of steam during the cooking (which in the very cold weather
+consumed one bottle of spirit, or 1 lb.) put us into such a vapour-bath
+that we could not even see our next neighbour; the tent walls were
+completely wet through, and the temperature, which had been 35° Fahr.,
+rose to 36°. The dampness of the coverings and clothes, from the
+condensation of the steam on the rime, of course increased, and the
+opening of the tent-door occasioned a fall of snow within, so that by
+the time the cooking was over, all was covered with a thick coating of
+ice or crust of snow.</p>
+
+<p>It is about eight or nine o’clock; the small rations of boiled
+beef, soup, and vegetables, are no longer enough to allay the daily
+increasing hunger; but sleep buries that, as well as our burning
+thirst, in oblivion. Only occasionally did our sparing supply of
+spirits allow us to prepare an extra quantity of water.</p>
+
+<p>During the march each one carried an india-rubber or tin bottle, full
+of snow, on his bare body, turned as much as possible to the sun,
+and often after many hours only a few spare spoonfuls (and sometimes
+nothing) could be obtained from it.</p>
+
+<p>Last of all, the cook, after cleaning out the kettle, also fights his
+way into the sleeping-sack, which thus attains its proper complement. A
+side position is the only one possible—to-night all lie to the left,
+to-morrow all to the right. Comfortable positions, such as stretching
+on one’s back for example, meet with a miserable protest, as well as
+any other after-movement; and when at length silence falls upon all,
+the eight men form one single lump.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_421">[421]</span></p>
+
+<p>The nose acts no longer merely as a condenser, as on the spring
+journey; it now becomes a cold-pole, and leaving it outside the rimy
+and icy covering is preferable to burying it in the questionable
+atmosphere of the sack. The mouth, as the only outlet of exhalation,
+must remain open, but the teeth get so cold that they feel like
+icicles, and the mask, which it is necessary to wear in the night
+freezes to the long beard.</p>
+
+<p>Happy were those who, during the lowest temperature within the first
+fourteen days of our journey, could really lose themselves during the
+hours of rest, if only for a short time, for they were generally passed
+in a painful waiting for a happy release, by—dragging!</p>
+
+<p>This general wakefulness made it unnecessary to set a special watch for
+bears and foxes, which occasionally made a bold raid upon the stores in
+the sledge, for they had never yet succeeded in approaching us quite
+noiselessly.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of all efforts to the contrary, the cutting cold too soon
+penetrated the sleeping-sack; within the tent the temperature sinks
+from 60° or 65°, to below zero, and the body has to be again refreshed
+with artificial warmth, by motion and hot food.</p>
+
+<p>The natural consequences of this state of temperature is a continually
+increasing sensation of freezing until the morning. During the day the
+sack has got thoroughly cold on the sledge, and must again be warmed
+by bodily heat, being frozen into thick folds as hard as iron. Whoever
+lies upon these seems to be lying on laths, which towards morning begin
+to lose their sharpness. One or the other we keep a bottle of snow
+about us. All are shivering, scarcely any sleep. For hours together we
+are in a state of suffocation, the pressure on either<span class="pagenum" id="Page_422">[422]</span> side causing a
+feeling as though the collar-bone was being forced into the chest, and
+the shoulders crushed. Each lies upon his arm (which of course goes to
+sleep), and is often prevented from breathing by the smell of train-oil
+proceeding from his neighbour’s sealskin. The breath condenses over the
+face and upon the sloping tent-side, in long snow webs, which fall at
+the slightest movement.</p>
+
+<p>The misery of tent life reaches its maximum during an uninterrupted
+snow-storm of sometimes three days’ duration. So long as this assumes
+the form of a hurricane, no one can leave the tent without danger of
+either being suffocated or blown away. These Greenland snow-storms,
+which carry small stones with them, greatly resemble West Indian
+hurricanes, only that the sun is completely darkened by the rush of
+snow.</p>
+
+<p>Of course our tents would soon have been blown over, if some
+precautions had not been taken. Great distress reigned within. The wind
+greatly lessened the already small space by pressing in the walls.
+Through the canvas, through every stitch or smallest opening, spurts
+a small flood of the finest snow, like flour out of a flour-mill, or
+collects itself on the inner surface, where its ever-increasing weight
+at length brings it down like small avalanches. As long as the storm
+rages the cold is alleviated from the equalization of warm air over the
+sea, though it seldom allows any heat to remain in the tent, so that we
+were still in a cold of from 14° to 5° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>By degrees a covering of snow at least an inch thick lies on the sack,
+under which we must patiently wait till the storm ceases. We scrape it
+away with the knife, but it soon returns again. On some occasions this
+snow began<span class="pagenum" id="Page_423">[423]</span> to melt, and penetrate the clothes, making us look like
+seals coming up out of the water.</p>
+
+<p>In a steadily rising temperature, too, the snow on which we lay would
+melt, and the sack get wet underneath, not to dry again till the
+summer, but freeze on the sledge in those hard folds we dreaded so
+much. We repeatedly felt the want of india-rubber coverings.</p>
+
+<p>This state of things often lasted from two to three days, and we
+waited with an indifference bordering on stupidity, sitting squeezed,
+with numbed hands, mending the gloves or stockings, almost freezing,
+masked; beards full of ice, stuffed up with a chaos of frozen clothes
+and boots, and, worst of all, fasting. The duration of the journey, as
+well as the extent of country to be explored, depended upon the use of
+the provisions. If, therefore, some part of the time was lost through
+storms, this loss, in spite of hunger, thirst, and loss of strength,
+could only be regained by reduced rations, which often only consisted
+of a thin soup.</p>
+
+<p>The saucepan has become leaky, a small sea has formed on the sack,
+the spirit-lamp runs, and repeatedly threatens to destroy the tent by
+fire, which, during the storm, would be the work of a moment. The cook
+grumbles, burns his fingers to-day which were frozen yesterday;—urged
+on by hunger, his cooking is subject to sharp criticism, as each is
+waiting for the eventful moment when the meal shall be ready.</p>
+
+<p>All food was frozen—even brandy began to freeze one night—meat in the
+tins or ham had to be chopped with the axe; butter could, without any
+fear, be carried in the waistcoat-pocket, to be enjoyed on the march.</p>
+
+<p>Woe to the unfortunate man who, in a lull of the storm,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_424">[424]</span> goes into
+the open air. He is almost torn to pieces, stifled by the snow-filled
+air, betrayed into snow-drifts, and yet not daring to open his eyes.
+Numbed with cold, white as a miller, he returns to the tent. Here he
+is a subject of horror to his neighbours in the sack, whom he intends
+robbing of their warmth to thaw himself. The snow-powder blown in upon
+the opening of the tent-door has penetrated through all the clothes,
+and the skin has to be scraped, and any frost-bites that may have
+set in have to be dispersed by rubbing. Indeed, the disturbance and
+excitement consequent upon a walk in the open air does not subside for
+some hours.</p>
+
+<p>But the snow-blind suffer the most from such a state of things. Out of
+consideration to them smoking was dropped.</p>
+
+<p>The irritation caused by the white snow-flakes, which with us are
+easily beaten aside, causes great suffering in Greenland, from the
+inflamed state of the eyes and the thick heavy atmosphere, to those who
+may have been unfortunate enough to break their snow-spectacles.</p>
+
+<p>Beating them off while on the march is impossible, for the damp cloth
+freezes at once to a lump of ice, making the eyes insupportably cold.
+The simple bandage, on the other hand, does not save one from the
+steady burning pain, which acts like needle-pricks. Opening the eye
+for a moment is not to be thought of. The blind are obliged to pull
+with the others, as the laden sledge cannot be moved but by our united
+strength.</p>
+
+<p>As a rule, we break up about five a.m. The thin black coffee is taken
+with some ice-cold bread dust,<a id="FNanchor_67" href="#Footnote_67" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> which effectually<span class="pagenum" id="Page_425">[425]</span> destroys all
+its warming properties, mixed into it like a mash, and then follows
+laborious packing up of the clothes, in order to be prepared for all
+weathers. The frozen boots must first be thawed with the hands, and the
+folds taken out, the tent freed from snow, and beaten until pliable.
+The sleeping-sack receives the same treatment, which, as a sign of our
+disgust and its daily-increasing weight from the ice, we named “the
+Walrus.”</p>
+
+<p>The soaked sealskin clothing freezes at once in the air, and damp
+condenses on the hair in frost-blossoms. One or the other rubs his face
+with scraped snow to refresh his eyes—a novel kind of washing, in
+default of water, though with the slightest breath of wind his hands
+are in danger of freezing. After every snow-storm, tent and sledge has
+to be dug out, and the contents cleaned with difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>All this business occupies about two hours, when the traces are taken
+up with great satisfaction, as a long-looked-for release from the pain
+of the nightly couch. The sledge is loosened from its frozen position,
+and the journey continued, which, after twenty-three days, brought us
+to 77° of Lat., the most northerly point ever reached on the east coast
+of Greenland.</p>
+
+<p>But we will now give an account of this expedition. It ought really
+to have begun on the 7th of March; but an accident happened to one of
+our comrades, who, on the evening of the 6th, had been attacked in the
+darkness by a bear, and severely injured. This occasioned some delay,
+and we started on the morning of the 8th of March.</p>
+
+<p>We had two sledges and ten men. The smaller of the two was harnessed to
+four men, and was to accompany<span class="pagenum" id="Page_426">[426]</span> us for a week, providing us with food,
+and after laying a depôt on the east coast of Hochstetter’s Promontory,
+was to return to the ship.</p>
+
+<p>We judged that our journey would last fifty or sixty days. The
+first day our advance was rendered so difficult by the hard, rough,
+sharp-edged snow-drifts, that we could only get the sledges along half
+laden, thus having to go over the road three times, and we only reached
+the north end of Sabine Island.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, finding the obstacles insurmountable, we thought to
+better ourselves by enlarging the tent, in spite of the fearful cold on
+the open field, and taking eight men with us instead of six, the other
+two returning to the ship; but even up to the 10th of March no change
+for the better set in.</p>
+
+<p>Only with great trouble and in constant danger of destruction could
+we get the sledge over the masses of snow: signs of a heavy storm
+were also visible; so, not to expend our time and strength in vain,
+we determined to return to the ship, and await a more favourable
+opportunity for our undertaking. Upon reaching it, we saw a hunter
+chasing a bear, which, with the agility of a cat, was climbing the
+slopes of Germania mountain. He and his companion had besieged the ship
+for some time.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of March we fetched back the sledge from the north end of
+Sabine Island, and on this occasion erected a provision depôt. The
+dreadful snow-storm of the next few days made us bewail the loss of
+time, but showed us how fruitless the continuation of our journey would
+have been.</p>
+
+<p>At last, on the 24th of March, circumstances had, we thought, taken
+a more favourable turn; so we left the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_427">[427]</span> vessel at nine a.m. for the
+second time. Six men—Ellinger, Herzberg, Mieders, Klentzer, Wagner,
+the carpenter, and our commander, Koldewey, and Payer—dragged
+the large one; four men—Sengstacke, Krauschner, Iversen, and the
+boatswain—managed the convoy. As before, we realized the mildness of
+the temperature in the harbour compared with the snowy waste to the
+north of Sabine Island.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of Sengstacke’s right foot was frost-bitten the first day,
+and rubbing with snow during the whole of the night was of no use; so
+the convoy sledge had to return the following day, which was a great
+loss for us. We increased our store of provisions by taking that from
+the other sledge, and continued our journey; but on the 27th of March
+a snow-storm kept us in the tent, and on the afternoon of the 28th the
+sledge broke down one of the curved irons which supported it. With much
+trouble this was repaired, but the violence of the storm raging on the
+29th and 30th prevented us from leaving the tent.</p>
+
+<p>On the 31st of March, after a night of torment, we pulled through the
+straits between Shannon Island (from which a herd of musk oxen watched
+us with astonishment) and Hochstetter’s Promontory. Upon reaching
+a large iceberg to the south-east of the latter, we took advantage
+of the sunny weather to shake out our ice-encumbered sleeping-sack.
+Unfortunately this brought no relief for the next night, as the low
+temperature robbed every one of sleep. The coast-edge of Hochstetter’s
+Promontory (stretching direct north and south), we passed near enough
+to allow of a fruitless raid upon a herd of musk oxen. As soon as
+the hunter was within 200 steps of them, the animals formed their
+accustomed square, and,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_428">[428]</span> placing the young ones in the centre, they
+all take to flight, reversing these tactics whenever they are pursued.
+A geological excursion to the small clefts in the valley of the
+basin-shaped land, which rose a few hundred feet, would have been
+well worth the trouble. The completely horizontal strata of micaceous
+sandstone (containing fossil bivalves), belonging to the mesozoic<a id="FNanchor_68" href="#Footnote_68" class="fnanchor">[67]</a>
+epoch, contained layers of lias coal, dark and sometimes syenitic
+gneiss, and a reddish degenerate kind of the same.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening the island of Koldewey, many hundred feet high, came
+above the horizon, distorted by the refraction into wild forms. Against
+the ever-increasing wind we sought to warm ourselves by pulling hard
+at the sledge; but noses, feet, and hands were all endangered. The
+distance travelled lately amounted to from ten to fifteen English miles
+daily. We had gone over the north end of Shannon, and saw icebergs in
+increasing numbers before us.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2nd of April a snow-storm again kept us in the tent. On the
+3rd we reached the north end of Hochstetter’s Promontory, formed by
+Cape Oswald Heer, next to the most northerly boundary of the explored
+country in East Greenland. The peninsula of Haystack, miscalled by
+Clavering an island, forms this boundary with a pyramidal summit of
+from 600 to 700 feet high.</p>
+
+<p>Near to this mountain our sledge broke down in the evening for the
+second time; this, however, caused no loss of time, as the ascent of
+Mount Haystack, a point so important for the determination of our
+positions, could upon no account be left undone. The mountain is, as it
+were, sprinkled with erratic blocks, belonging partly to a very recent
+formation, and, like the high ridge<span class="pagenum" id="Page_429">[429]</span> of the coast consists chiefly of
+gneiss, with alternate layers of red felspar. The scanty vegetation
+already showed signs of budding. From the point one perceives a large
+bay (Bessel Bay) to the north, with the mouth of several fjords; to
+the east nothing was to be seen but ice and the north end of Shannon,
+with its soft undulating mountains. The rosy sloping masses of Koldewey
+Island, in the north-east, looked in the splendour of the setting sun
+like fairy-land. An endless snowy waste of bluish-grey shadows lay
+between it and us. Half we had already traversed.</p>
+
+<p>Near us rose the high, wild, Alpine front of the geologically
+interesting island of Kuhn; to the west lay a rough mountainous
+district, the interior of which had never yet been trodden by the
+foot of man, and in which Clavering mistakenly makes a fjord (called
+Roseneath Inlet) penetrate, which really never existed.</p>
+
+<p>From Cape Heer to Cape Seebach (west of Haystack) ran a beautiful
+bay, opening to the south, which, from its position, one would be
+inclined to say would form a perfect harbour for the winter. But what
+irreparable danger we should have run if, in the previous summer, we
+had found this bay free from ice, and had taken possession of it,
+instead of that to the south of Sabine Island! Now it was blocked with
+ice—perhaps had been for a decade—certainly for some years. Even the
+deep pools south of Haystack lay upon ice several years old.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the afternoon’s march we had a bear-hunt, though an
+unsuccessful one. A she-bear and her two cubs—the latter very like
+poodles, and from their dirty yellow colour and black noses perceptible
+for a long distance—were making quickly towards us, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_430">[430]</span> when within
+about 400 paces, our firing drove them back.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p4300_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p4300_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">SURPRISED BY A BEAR.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 4th of April another bear attacked us in the
+tent, but paid for his temerity with his life, giving us a can of fat
+(which served as fuel for four days) and a good deal of meat, which
+we immediately enjoyed raw. For the first time drowsiness overcame us
+all, and first one and then another closed his eyes. In the afternoon
+snow again drifted from the north, against which we marched for some
+hours, but were eventually obliged to put up the tent. This lasted
+to the 5th, and kept us prisoners. A sudden and unexpected increase
+of temperature,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_431">[431]</span> although only lasting some hours, made the snow
+melt inside our tent, placing us in a most uncomfortable state. On
+the 6th of April we crossed the 76° of Lat., and reached the level
+mountain-foot of a cape called Karl Ritter, which was bounded to the
+north by the beautiful bay of Bessel (named after the great German
+astronomer), so rich in fjords. The shore consisted of mica gneiss,
+alternating with amphibolite, and a very coarse-grained granite,
+with red orthoclase, green oligoclase, and black mica. To our great
+astonishment, on the south side of the cape, amongst some remains of
+bones of sea animals, we came upon some Esquimaux dwellings. They were
+summer tents, marked by a circle of stones, the hide being held down,
+and kept upright by a centre pole.</p>
+
+<p>Our road, in the meantime, had assumed a totally different character.
+It consisted of lumps of ice rounded by evaporation, amongst which
+we lost our can of bear’s-grease. Nevertheless, the same evening we
+reached the southern exit of a second very large bay (Roon Bay), north
+of Cape Peschel, which was marked by the wildest mountain character.</p>
+
+<p>The icebergs here increased everywhere both in size and numbers. They
+are successors of the glaciers, and are distinguished by their light
+green colour, their sharp, craggy formation, and more particularly
+the layers, which differ from the bluish and less dense ice of the
+sea-formed ice-floe. The appearance of these icebergs on the open sea
+is very irregular, as the icing of the bays stops all communication of
+the Fjord with the Arctic currents often for a decade of years, and
+the icebergs grow together with the flat ice into masses, until a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_432">[432]</span>
+steady increase of temperature and spring storms open the latter and
+release the former. It is also possible that the released fragments of
+East-Greenland glaciers may be carried to the west coast by a connexion
+of the different fjords and currents, or that by interior channels they
+arrive in Scoresby’s or Davis’ Strait.</p>
+
+<p>Straight to the north of us rose an imposing wall, 3280 feet high.
+Its banks of gneiss, with their varied colours, sloped at an angle of
+15° southwards. We named this reddish wall the “Devil’s Cape,” and
+were inclined to believe that behind it the Greenland coast, trending
+towards the north-west, was probably connected with Smith Sound.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening, in the far distance to the north, appeared fresh
+monstrous mountain chains, with outlying islands. We could not now
+tell whether we had to do with an entirely insular opening or with an
+enormous bay, as we were not in a position to give a decided opinion.
+Under such circumstances, our orders were to keep to the outer edge of
+the coast, from which we were already separated by the far-advancing
+land of Koldewey Island. So we continued our course in a north-easterly
+direction.</p>
+
+<p>On such a voyage of discovery, it may be laid down as a useful rule
+to keep at least from five to ten English miles from the coast,
+occasionally landing to climb some high look-out. Circuitous routes are
+thus saved, projecting points only being touched without hugging the
+coast-line: wrong roads are in this way avoided; and, above all, by
+these means the land-survey is correctly and quickly completed.</p>
+
+<p>The nearer one goes to the coast, the narrower will the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_433">[433]</span> horizon
+become, as much from cliffs as from low undulating shores.</p>
+
+<p>Our new course brought us, still on the 7th of April, into a huge waste
+of loose snow, of ever increasing depth, which stopped our further
+advance. Mock suns, with double circles, which hung with wonderful
+effect in the afternoon over the colossal rocks of Roon Bay, warned us
+of the approach of unfavourable weather.</p>
+
+<p>On the 8th, we continued our journey during a raging snow-storm. The
+“Devil’s” Cape, only one German mile distant, appeared with a faint
+outline, as if seen through a thick curtain. The snow, in which, in
+spite of the intense cold, we sank deeper and deeper, hindered us so
+much that, even with judicious alterations in the pulling, we were six
+hours making five English miles, and the slides of the sledge acted
+as a perfect plough. From increasing dysentery, the loss of the opium
+bottle was much felt.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the 8th to the 9th some foxes attacked the remains of
+the frozen bear’s meat on the sledge.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the 9th, after a wearying march, we reached an island
+group (East Island) 650 feet high, in the middle of the large bay (Dove
+Bay), of which we climbed the highest summit, to inspect the nature of
+the land and explore our future course.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the heights showed us that, besides the one entrance,
+there was no other means of egress to the coast but by the narrow
+straits to the north of Koldewey Island; but still, in another point
+of view, the ascent of this height was of great interest; for we found
+that the westerly background of Dove Bay, which is filled with numerous
+moderately high-lying islands, formed a high<span class="pagenum" id="Page_434">[434]</span> mountainous country,
+separated by a large Fjord, and extending for sixty miles with glaciers
+and mountain tops, which we estimated at 6500 feet high. From the
+direction of some of these fjords, we conjectured that the one at the
+back of Ardencaple Bay communicated with the sounds of Bessel and Dove
+Bays.</p>
+
+<p>On all sides the chain was of wonderful beauty. Glacier cascades, more
+than a mile broad, fell from a snow plateau 4800 feet high, in the
+north-west. Icebergs of monstrous height, which on that very account we
+mistook for islands, were iced up in the interior of the bays.</p>
+
+<p>The rocks of East Island were polished to the summit, and cast in the
+most picturesque forms, and often, supported only by a small stone,
+huge erratic blocks rested on the ridges. These blocks had evidently
+fallen in the place and spot, and had not rolled there. Once, perhaps,
+they had been borne by ice-floes, dropped to the bottom of the sea, and
+this, in the course of time, had risen, or else the level of the sea
+might have sunk. At least, this seemed the only feasible explanation of
+their erratic appearance on the summit itself.</p>
+
+<p>Several hours’ drawing and work with the theodolite had completely
+numbed me by the time we left the mountain, the snowy slopes of which
+bore traces of bears and ptarmigan.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th of April we kept in an easterly direction, towards the
+north end of the most northerly of the Koldewey Islands. Violently
+drifting snow, with heavy atmosphere, increased snow-blindness, and
+drowsiness paralyzed all of us. Nearly the whole day long did we take
+a picture produced by the Fata Morgana for real land. Cape Heligoland,
+the north-west corner of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_435">[435]</span> rocky island, which we reached in the
+evening, consists of very thin layers of hornblende-schist, with
+distinct traces of glacial detritus. For the first time, in spite of
+the lowness of the temperature, we saw the snow melt on the rocks, from
+the now increasing power of the sun.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 11th of April we had again 27° Fahr. below zero.
+In an almost northerly direction, and after that, by reconnoitring, we
+had fully convinced ourselves that any attempt to reach the outer coast
+edge would be attended with great loss of time, we continued our way
+along the inner part of Dove Bay, and reached the end of our actual
+sledge journey in a bay bounded by an easterly-lying plateau, 975 feet
+high. This we called Storm Bay, and not without a cause. The cape
+bounding Dove Bay, to the east, we named Cape Bismarck (76° 47′).</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th we climbed to this plateau during a violent snow-storm,
+which effectually prevented any great geographical acquisition.
+Returning to the tent, a raging storm broke over us, and a fresh flood
+of snow fell, lasting three days. During this time we ate almost
+nothing, as our store of provisions threatened to disappear altogether.
+Scarcely ever was the fast of Passion week (14th April) more strictly
+observed than it was by us.</p>
+
+<p>Not until the 15th could we leave the tent. The three days of
+inactivity had diminished our strength; faint, hungry, and thirsty,
+we started upon our last stretch of journey to the north, leaving the
+tent behind us, and taking only a covering. Want of provisions, which
+necessitated our returning, forbade our extending the journey further.
+Some musk oxen, which we came upon unexpectedly, were clever enough
+not to prove the range<span class="pagenum" id="Page_436">[436]</span> of the rifle, and out-manœuvred Ellinger, who,
+after making a wide circuit, thought to come close upon them. In deep
+snow we accomplished the thirty miles there and back to a mountain more
+than 1080 feet high, which rose above the plateau stretching along the
+coast.</p>
+
+<p>We had crossed the 77th degree of latitude! Like so many of our
+predecessors, we, too, longed to lift the veil hanging over the whole
+of the Arctic world, so opposed to the mandate, “Thus far shalt thou
+go, and no further;” and, like so many others, found that our object
+gained fell far short of our bold flights of fancy; and that, resting
+after endless troubles at the end of our journey, we still looked in
+vain for the solution of the many riddles which science expected of
+us. The conjecture, once broached, of an open Arctic Sea, we could,
+from our stand-point, only reject as idle. To the furthest point of the
+horizon the sea was covered with a solid covering of ice, over which,
+had it not been for the want of provisions, we could have continued our
+sledge journey. The outer coast-line stretched in an almost northerly
+direction; to the north-west, the prospect was closed in by lofty
+ice-covered mountains, only a few miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>The question, in which direction Greenland now extended, had thus far
+found no solution. The great number of inland maritime districts, the
+everywhere striking division of land which, in a favourable bright
+evening, stood out so plainly, gave room to the conjecture that the
+chief mass of land (if this should be a continent), probably trended
+off to the north-west, in 76° Lat., and that we as yet had only to do
+with outlying islands; this, at least, appeared as likely as a north
+and south<span class="pagenum" id="Page_437">[437]</span> continuation of the coast, as arbitrarily represented on
+charts for many years past.</p>
+
+<p>A feeling of awe steals over the most thoughtless when his feet stands
+on virgin ground, and there lies before him a world on which, from the
+beginning of time, no European eye has ever rested.</p>
+
+<p>The North-German and Austrian flags fluttered in a light north wind
+peaceably side by side. We erected a cairn, which will doubtless remain
+unmoved, though perhaps never again seen to the end of time, and placed
+inside it a box containing a short account of our voyage. The document
+ran thus: “This spot, which lies in 77° 1′ North Lat. and 18° 50′ West
+Long. from Greenwich, was reached by the German Arctic Expedition in
+sledges (the last three German miles on foot) starting from the winter
+harbour by Sabine Island, after an absence from the ship of twenty-two
+days.”</p>
+
+<p>The storms, which for eight days kept us in the tent, and partly the
+great difficulties of the journey, as well as the want of provisions,
+prevented us from advancing further. The coast which falls off rugged
+to the east stretches into a plateau for about 1500 feet further to
+the north. The sea, as far as the eye could reach (about seventy-five
+miles) offered one continuous surface of ice. The land ice, which is
+perfectly free from lumps, and is and has to all appearances been fast
+for years, stretches at least ten miles from the coast. The weather was
+very clear at sea, particularly to the east, in which not a sign of
+water was perceptible.</p>
+
+<p>Good Friday, 15th April, 1870.</p>
+
+<p>Karl Koldewey, Commander of the Expedition; Julius Payer,
+first-lieutenant; Thomas Klentzer, Peter Ellinger,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_438">[438]</span> sailors. Captain
+Koldewey remarks: “We put up the telescope of the theodolite on a
+distant ice-block, and let it stand for some time, in order to prove
+the motion of the ice, if there was any; but the ice-block remained
+stationary, as we fully expected, as the heavy sea ice seemed to be
+closely joined to the land ice. Fully convinced that perhaps never, or
+at least only in very particularly favourable, years, could any ship
+advance along this coast, we set out on our return journey; the ice
+gave one the impression of a rampart built for eternity. With sledges
+it is possible, if the equipment is adequate, and the strength of the
+Expedition is concentrated upon them, to go considerably beyond 80°
+Lat. This is greatly facilitated by the quantity of game, by which, to
+a certain extent, the stock of provisions may be renewed.</p>
+
+<p>We got nine shots, and at half-past three p.m. began our return to the
+tent.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Koldewey had finished his study of the situation of the ice
+in the east, and Payer his work of land surveying, and had collected
+some mosses, lichen, saxifrage, and some specimens of granite, syenite,
+and hornblende-gneiss. The greater part of our return journey was
+made under increasing snow falls; and soon after reaching the tent,
+completely exhausted, the roaring north wind began, interrupted by
+short periods of calm, until it rose to a regular storm.</p>
+
+<p>From our critical position with regard to provisions for our return
+journey to the ship we were in the meantime happily freed. Those who
+had been left behind in the tent had succeeded in killing two musk
+oxen, which on our return they triumphantly exhibited. Some willow,
+gathered under difficulties, gave us plenty of fuel—and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_439">[439]</span> this we might
+thank for enabling us to obtain water—which with the meat formed
+a luxurious meal. Merely the flesh was cut from the creatures, and
+together with the hams packed on the sledge. This, together with a bear
+which we killed a few days later, lasted until we reached the ship.
+By degrees we had accustomed ourselves to eat reindeer, walrus, seal,
+bear, and musk oxen raw, and indeed fresh killed, for the nourishment
+contained in the fresh meat overcame the disagreeable taste of
+train-oil, and the great decrease of our stock of spirit compelled us
+to do so.</p>
+
+<p>Only at first did we object: tufts of hair, wool from our coverlids,
+with coffee, bread dust, pepper, and juniper-berries (the contents
+of the sacks had become partly mixed), the remains of bears’ grease,
+frozen butter, and the rest of the soup left at the last meal; we were
+only too glad to swallow all when at last necessity compelled.</p>
+
+<p>The snow-storm lasted till the 16th April, and the temperature suddenly
+rose for a few hours to 17° Fahr., which caused the tiresome thawing
+of the snow in the tent. Not till five p.m., when we started, was the
+atmosphere still; some feet of fresh snow had fallen, and still the
+storm raged; the clouds lay close to the earth—only occasionally for
+a moment could we see the long wall of Devil’s Cape in bluish colours
+far to the south-west. The road back to Cape Heligoland was traversed
+slowly and silently. Beyond that was the large snowy waste south of
+Dove Bay. We waded through it during Easter time, as step by step we
+sank up to the thighs through the crusted surface, and in spite of the
+greatest exertions could only make a short day’s journey. Panting and
+almost bent double we tugged at the traces; with struggles<span class="pagenum" id="Page_440">[440]</span> the sledge
+followed, sinking deep into the snow-dust, almost as much swimming as
+gliding.</p>
+
+<p>We did not now depend much upon the daylight, as the sun only remained
+a short time below the horizon. We slept in the day, marched during
+the night, and at midnight had a short rest in the tent, rendered very
+painful by the frost.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after midnight the sun rose blood-red above the faint violet
+silhouette of the mountain ridge of the most northerly discovered land
+(King William’s Land), and brightly shone the rocky front of Cape
+Peschel towering in the waste. Radiant lay the endless snow-fields in a
+yellowish rosy shimmer, over which the wind rolls thick veils of snow,
+resembling in effect of colour, from the illumination of the low-lying
+sun, an undulating flow of molten steel,<a id="FNanchor_69" href="#Footnote_69" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> driving away over the
+diamond-sparkling road, and the long bluish shadows of the men breaking
+through the snowy masses as they knocked against each other in their
+violent and unequal motion, a spectacle and a work for the cursed,
+which Dante might have held up to the coryphees of his infernal regions.</p>
+
+<p>During the short rests on our return journey we employed ourselves by
+splitting the frozen flesh into strips—as hard as oak—to put into the
+kettle with the soup or coffee, that we might the better enjoy it.</p>
+
+<p>Only by enduring the extremes of hunger and thirst, and enjoying the
+smallest possible quantity of sleep, is the Arctic traveller enabled to
+reach high latitudes. After a few weeks his strength greatly decreases,
+his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_441">[441]</span> rations steadily lessen, the baggage he has to draw seems to
+increase, the nightly chills, the disturbed digestion from insufficient
+nourishment, the cold, and so on, lead to depression or sickness,
+particularly to dysentery. The tongue is often covered with blisters
+from taking the food boiling hot. The constant change from wet to frost
+leads to wounds in the limbs, to the utter rotting and destruction of
+clothes, as well as to other internal evils, at last we went about in
+little else than torn stockings. Upon leaving the tent after several
+days’ snow-storm one felt all the feebleness of convalescence. With
+gnawing hunger drowsiness was combined, which so overcame some of our
+party that they dragged with closed eyes, only half awake, and between
+the short pauses sank at once to sleep. Of course they had to be
+awakened immediately.</p>
+
+<p>As we struck our tent at six a.m. on the 17th of April, the light-lying
+snow was four feet deep. On the 18th the cold again reached 13° Fahr.,
+the daily distance made under the greatest exertions attendant upon
+great exhaustion, was but a few nautical miles. For hours together
+icebergs already passed seemed unchanged in point of distance. Not
+until the 19th did our road improve, when we slept better than we had
+done for a long time. One single sunny morning with moderate cold, how
+it raised the spirits and quieted the nerves!</p>
+
+<p>Everywhere from the direction of the snow-drifts could we tell the
+local change of the prevailing wind. On the 20th, south of Devil’s
+Cape, we killed a bear which was on the point of attacking us in the
+tent; its fat freed us for some time (from the increasing want of
+fuel to melt the snow) from the fatiguing and precarious task of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_442">[442]</span>
+willow-seeking on the neighbouring coast, as well as from the further
+destruction of our sledge which had already been stripped of every
+available piece of wood.</p>
+
+<p>A short visit to Peschel Island, which lies over against the cape
+of the same name, during the journey of the 21st, convinced me once
+more of the great identity of the geological structure with the old
+crystal line formation belonging to the East Greenland coast. The
+island consisted of alternate strata of amphibolite and gneiss.
+Everywhere were to be seen large blocks of thirty-three cubic feet
+of hornblende-rock, and glacial detritus, which attained a maximum
+elevation of 229 feet.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22nd a bear attacked us while dragging, and was killed. A piece
+of his skin was taken with us and the head laid with the remainder.
+We then had to put up with drifting snow exactly resembling a storm,
+though it did not prevent us from advancing, as we had the wind at our
+backs and had made a sail of the empty sacks, which greatly lightened
+our load; indeed, so much so for some distance, that the sledge ran
+with but very moderate pulling. During such snow-drifting it often
+happened that we had not the slightest idea where the land lay.</p>
+
+<p>The snow-drifting lasted through the 23rd, its numbing influence being
+increased by some hours’ unsheltered stay on the peninsula of Haystack,
+where we tried in vain to sever the head of a bear, killed some time
+before, to take with us.</p>
+
+<p>A troop of foxes, which for weeks had been gnawing at the frozen flesh,
+would scarcely be driven away, and then were constantly returning.</p>
+
+<p>The temperature of the last few days had risen to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_443">[443]</span> 3° Fahr.; but on the
+24th and 25th April it fell again to -13°.</p>
+
+<p>One of the sailors, a Frankfort man, Peter Ellinger (called Hans), the
+heartiest companion and the most difficult to replace, had greatly
+suffered<a id="FNanchor_70" href="#Footnote_70" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> from excessive exertion and the frost; and as a great deal
+depended upon his being with us in the expedition for exploring the
+great Fjords to the north-west of Ardencaple Bay in the next sledge
+journey (which we were to begin after eight days’ rest, and which would
+last for four weeks), Payer and he left the sledge, in order to reach
+the ship and the doctor as soon as possible.</p>
+
+<p>On the 26th they helped to drag the sledge from twelve p.m. to
+half-past eight a.m., when they started alone with some provisions and
+melted water, which however soon froze on their bodies, across the
+snow-fields<span class="pagenum" id="Page_444">[444]</span> to the south, the sledge following slowly. The snow soon
+began to lose its hardness, and the nearer we came to land the looser
+and deeper it became from the drifts. The sight of the well-known walls
+and capes which had become our home, gave to our wishes and hopes a
+quiet security.</p>
+
+<p>But our quarter-master had not accomplished the day’s march of forty
+miles to the rocky coast of Sabine Island, on the south-east shore of
+which the winter harbour lay, when the dreaded signs of a storm arose.
+The curtains of snow began to rise from the ground, causing them to
+regret the furs they had left behind; and as they could neither reach
+the sledge nor the ship in time, they were placed in a somewhat serious
+predicament.</p>
+
+<p>However the storm subsided, the sun came out and shone brightly
+over the land as we set foot on the shore of the island, whilst the
+softening of the snow compelled us to raise the tent earlier than
+usual, and to take our last disposable meal. We slept at the foot of a
+cliff in Clavering Straits. Ellinger laid down on the rugged edge of
+the coast, and Payer sat beside to watch, the gun lying cocked by his
+side.</p>
+
+<p>With what delight could one enjoy the bright sunshine in this wild
+scenery. The strand ice began to whisper and to crack with the
+tide—the recollection of awakening spring at home lay alluringly near.
+Hans slept softly: it was a pity to have to wake him in a few minutes,
+which we must do for fear he should freeze.</p>
+
+<p>Then a bird’s note sounded from the walls above, the first greeting
+of the awakening spring! After Payer had also rested, the journey was
+continued, avoiding the long road along the shore; and, though in
+stockings, they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_445">[445]</span> had to traverse sharp rocky slopes, blocks, and lumps
+of snow over high chains of mountains; and from the summit of the last
+they looked down upon the winter harbour.</p>
+
+<p>There lay the ship still surrounded with ice. The coast-land, which
+we had left in its winter dress, had again donned its characteristic
+brown, and looked quite strange.</p>
+
+<p>Payer and Ellinger descended from the mountain. Full of joyful
+expectation did they approach the ship, which struck them (as it did
+us afterwards) as being wonderfully large and stately. It was midnight
+when the travellers reached it, after a march of twenty-one hours and
+a half. A black face looked up astonished from the engine-room. It
+was that of the engineer Krauschner, who was busily cleaning all up
+for the summer cruise. The unusual footsteps on deck called Copeland,
+Börgen, and Pansch up armed, and the meeting was attended with as much
+excitement as if they had been separated for years.</p>
+
+<p>At Captain Koldewey’s desire, Sengstacke immediately came back to
+meet us with provisions, and on the following day (27th April) we all
+reached the ship together.</p>
+
+<p>After such an expedition there is great danger in entering suddenly
+under a warm roof. Upon reaching the cabin, the blood rushed
+immediately to the surface.</p>
+
+<p>What a wonder the ship seemed to us! A cabin—which had now been turned
+into a carpenter’s shop—in which one could stand upright; boxes on
+which we could sit. Here, after five weeks, we could once more undress
+ourselves; here a berth, with mattress and coverings, invited us
+instead of the sleeping-sack.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_446">[446]</span></p>
+
+<p>Our exceptional circumstances caused the cook to wink at the
+consumption of his melted snow-water, to which we applied ourselves
+unmolested: to satisfy ourselves was really hard work. For four hours
+we ate, without intermission, of everything that came in our way: large
+pieces of roasted bears’ flesh (they had been visited by bears in our
+absence, and had killed some), bacon, vegetables, ship’s biscuit,
+bread, butter, cheese, wine, chocolate, black coffee, and so on.</p>
+
+<p>The change to rest was with some the beginning or the climax of ailing
+symptoms, such as relaxation, rheumatic affections, cramp, dysentery,
+and gastric ailments. But we were not allowed much time for repose, for
+a few days after we started to explore Ardencaple Inlet.</p>
+
+<p>This account of one of our five sledge journeys, which occupied three
+months on the whole, will naturally raise the question whether, after
+all these privations, science was in any way the gainer? Such was
+the case. The discovery of a land stretching over several degrees of
+latitude and longitude; the reaching the most northerly point ever yet
+trodden in East Greenland; the conviction that the land was wonderfully
+broken up and might possibly resolve itself into a group of islands;
+the certainty from our geodetical work that a future measurement of
+degrees would meet with no hindrance from climate, configuration of
+ground, or atmospheric condition; the enriching of the geological
+knowledge of our terrestrial globe; the confirmation of the conjecture
+that the most recent geological formations were certainly not wanting
+in the far north (as people were at one time inclined to believe); the
+discovery of enormous glaciers, the surroundings of which perfectly
+agreed with Peschel’s theory of the origin<span class="pagenum" id="Page_447">[447]</span> of fjords; the proof that
+the Esquimaux must long since have deserted the north-east coast,<a id="FNanchor_71" href="#Footnote_71" class="fnanchor">[70]</a>
+and that the land is completely uninhabited; observations upon the
+diffusion of certain plants and animals; upon the almost exclusive
+dominions of the north wind; and lastly, the experience that the
+navigability of the so-called coast water suffers great interruption
+from the ice masses in the Arctic current, amongst the local
+islands,—surely these may be considered as somewhat valuable results.</p>
+
+<p>The following Table gives, the observations of temperature during
+Captain Koldewey’s journey as compared with those taken at the same
+time at the winter quarters on Sabine Island. The readings took place
+from a thermometer agreeing with the standard instrument on board,
+and noting the time at three and four periods during the day, from
+which the simple mean was taken. For Sabine Island the daily mean was
+reckoned from the same hours.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_448">[448]</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="smcap center p2">Long Sledge Journey Northwards. Discovery of King William’s
+Island.</p>
+
+<table class="smaller">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="ctrtrbl" colspan="2" rowspan="2">Date.</td>
+    <td class="ctrtrb" rowspan="2">Latitude.</td>
+    <td class="ctrtrb" colspan="2">Mean Daily Temperature<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[71]</a></td>
+    <td class="ctrtrb" rowspan="2">Excess of<br>Temperature<br>on Sabine<br>Island.</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="ctrrb">on Journey.</td>
+    <td class="ctrrb">on Sabine<br>Island.</td>
+  </tr>
+
+  <tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">March</td>
+    <td class="rightr">24</td>    
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">-15°.25</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-2°.65</td>
+    <td class="rightr">12°.6&ensp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">25</td>
+    <td class="rightr">74° 47′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-26°.05</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-11°.87</td>
+    <td class="rightr">15°.18</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">26</td>
+    <td class="rightr">56′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-24°.47</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-19°.07</td>
+    <td class="rightr">5°.4&ensp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">27</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">-9°.62</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-5°.57</td>
+    <td class="rightr">4°.05</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">28</td>
+    <td class="rightr">75° 8′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-12°.1&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-7°.15</td>
+    <td class="rightr">5°.95</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">29</td>
+    <td class="rightr">11′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-4°.&emsp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-4°.67</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-0°.67</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">30</td>
+    <td class="rightr">11′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-1°.52</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-3°.1&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-1°.58</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">31</td>
+    <td class="rightr">14′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-15°.7&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-7°.37</td>
+    <td class="rightr">8°.33</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">April</td>
+    <td class="rightr">1</td>
+    <td class="rightr">25′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-21°.77</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-15°.02</td>
+    <td class="rightr">6°.65</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">2</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">-2°.2&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-3°.55</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-1°.53</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">3</td>
+    <td class="rightr">75° 37′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-12°.77</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-0°.17</td>
+    <td class="rightr">12°.65</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">4</td>
+    <td class="rightr">49′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-7°.6&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-3°.77</td>
+    <td class="rightr">3°.83</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">5</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">13°.55</td>
+    <td class="rightr">6°.35</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-7°.2&ensp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">6</td>
+    <td class="rightr">76° 6′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">9°.95</td>
+    <td class="rightr">10°.62</td>
+    <td class="rightr">0°.67</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7</td>
+    <td class="rightr">20′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-3°.77</td>
+    <td class="rightr">4°.1&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.87</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">8</td>
+    <td class="rightr">32′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-13°.45</td>
+    <td class="rightr">2°.75</td>
+    <td class="rightr">10°.70</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">9</td>
+    <td class="rightr">38′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-10°.52</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-4°.45</td>
+    <td class="rightr">6°.07</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">10</td>
+    <td class="rightr">42′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-9°.62</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-3°.55</td>
+    <td class="rightr">6°.07</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">11</td>
+    <td class="rightr">50′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-21°.77</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-14°.12</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.65</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">12</td>
+    <td class="rightr">50′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-11°.65</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-9°.85</td>
+    <td class="rightr">1°.80</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">13</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">1°.3&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">0°.72</td>
+    <td class="rightr">0°.57</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">14</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.02</td>
+    <td class="rightr">8°.82</td>
+    <td class="rightr">1°.8&ensp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">15</td>
+    <td class="rightr">77°  0′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">2°.3&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.25</td>
+    <td class="rightr">4°.95</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">16</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">8°.15</td>
+    <td class="rightr">8°.15</td>
+    <td class="rightr">0°.0&ensp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">17</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">8°.15</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.25</td>
+    <td class="rightr">-0°.90</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">18</td>
+    <td class="rightr"></td>
+    <td class="rightr">-13°.0&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">0°.95</td>
+    <td class="rightr">11°.05</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">19</td>
+    <td class="rightr">76° 33′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">3°.2&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.7&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">4°.5&ensp;</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">20</td>
+    <td class="rightr">20′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">4°.77</td>
+    <td class="rightr">9°.72</td>
+    <td class="rightr">4°.95</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">21</td>
+    <td class="rightr">6′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.2&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">15°.12</td>
+    <td class="rightr">7°.92</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrl">„</td>
+    <td class="rightr">22</td>
+    <td class="rightr">75° 48′</td>
+    <td class="rightr">0°.5&ensp;</td>
+    <td class="rightr">1°.62</td>
+    <td class="rightr">1°.12</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrlb">„</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">23</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">24′</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">-4°.22</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">1°.85</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">6°.07</td>
+  </tr>
+  
+<tr>
+    <td class="ctrlrb" colspan="3">Mean temperatures</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">-5°.80</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">-0°.85</td>
+    <td class="rightrb">4°.95</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[71]</a> In degrees of Fahrenheit reduced from Reaumur’s Scale.
+(<i>Tr.</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>The mean temperature on the sledge journey was therefore 4·95 degrees
+lower than it was at the same time at Sabine Island. Hence we concluded
+that the temperature decreases towards the north, although the
+protected position of the winter harbour was partly the cause of its
+greater warmth.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_449">[449]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.<br>
+<span class="subhed">SLEDGE JOURNEY TO ARDENCAPLE INLET, FROM 8TH TO 29TH MAY, 1870.<a id="FNanchor_72" href="#Footnote_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Fitting out.—High temperature.—Bad prospects for
+the journey.—Great difficulty of progress in deep
+snow.—Bears.—Impossibility of passing Fligely Fjord.—March
+to the eastern side of Kuhn Island.—Geological
+excursion.—Shooting of plants, and animal life.—Mieders
+snow-blind.—Bastian Bay passed.—Anchoring by Cape
+Bremen.—Ascent of Cape Bremen (3080 feet) by Lieut. Payer,
+in company with Herzberg and Wagner.—Alteration in plan of
+journey.—Exploration of Kuhn Island.—Erection of a Cairn on
+the Peak of Cape Bremen.—Return march commenced.—Geology of
+Kuhn Island.—Ascent of 3670 feet up the Black Wall on Kuhn
+Island by Lieut. Payer, with Herzberg and Wagner.—Running
+water.—Determination of the height of the Black Wall.—Cape
+Berlin reached.—Arrival at the ship.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Returning from our sledge journey on the 27th April, we found the ship
+lying as we had left her, there being still seven feet thickness of
+ice in the harbour. Before the middle of July we could not expect our
+release from the ice, and then our exploring expeditions would begin.
+The interim could not be better employed than by repeated sledge
+journeys. The investigation of Ardencaple Inlet and the fjords opening
+into it, and then, too, the possible connexion of this bay with the
+sounds lying north-west of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_450">[450]</span> Kuhn Island, formed a most interesting
+object of investigation, and that at no great distance. But above all
+things speed was indispensable; for had we not in prospect the dreadful
+state of the snowy waste which must inevitably attend the rapid thaw of
+an Arctic midsummer?</p>
+
+<p>After ten days’ rest those who had been suffering from dysentery,
+cramp, and rheumatism (the effects of the previous journey), had
+somewhat recovered; a further reason for avoiding longer delay,
+although we were unfortunately obliged to leave Klentzer and our brave
+Ellinger behind.</p>
+
+<p>The hope of finding the ice in Fligely Fjord free from snow, as in the
+previous autumn, decided us in choosing this road to Ardencaple Inlet.
+The dread of a repetition of our late sufferings from want of food made
+us burden ourselves with all we could take, but the dead-weight was
+lightened as much as possible by the general sleeping-sack being made
+of light woollen stuff, and by reducing the size of the tent.</p>
+
+<p>Our weapons consisted of three breech-loaders and a hundred cartridges;
+our instruments, of a theodolite, aneroid, and thermometer. We also
+took thirty bottles of spirits, sixty lbs. of melted walrus and bear’s
+fat for fuel, and nine bottles of ginger in a tin can. Our clothes were
+lighter, as we had relieved ourselves of the fur. In case the loosening
+of the coast ice should prevent our reaching the ship, we laid down a
+provision depôt at Cape Berlin.</p>
+
+<p>Journeys at the end of the spring time are very different from those
+at the beginning. In the first instance, one has to suffer from the
+frost, and in the second, from the glowing summer heat, although in the
+shade the thermometer is still below freezing-point. Very troublesome,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_451">[451]</span>
+too, is the reflected sunlight on the snow-fields on this journey:
+the temperature rose in the tent during the day, on the 9th May, 53°
+Fahr.; on the 10th, 65° Fahr.; and on the 26th, to 77° Fahr., we were
+in a steam resembling a pot on the fire. The stony snow-fields change
+into pools of water at the end of May and the beginning of June, making
+the crossing, at all times troublesome, still more difficult by the
+overflowing tide. In the first days of May the cold decreased; the
+temperature rose from 50° to 68° Fahr.; the sun did not set; and the
+storms had suddenly ceased.</p>
+
+<p>So far we could not wish for more favourable conditions for travelling,
+as we started five strong, on the 8th May (Tramnitz, Herzberg, Wagner,
+Mieders, and Payer), the others accompanying us as far as the next cape.</p>
+
+<p>Snow had fallen some days before; but, besides this, the quantity of
+baggage (14 cwt.) delayed our progress, so that we were four hours
+reaching the south-west point of Sabine Island. A small isthmus covered
+with snow, which we had to cross here in order to avoid a wide circuit,
+showed us the great difficulty of dragging the sledge over even a small
+bit of land. Places quite free from snow would prevent it entirely. It
+must, therefore, be understood that journeys of this kind can only take
+place on an ice-covered sea.</p>
+
+<p>We now travelled independent of daylight, as the sun never sets, so
+that on the morning of the 9th of May (2° Fahr.), after reaching the
+west coast of Sabine Island, separated from the mainland by Clavering
+Straits, we pitched our tents opposite the Kronenberg.</p>
+
+<p>Signs of bad weather increased from the north; grey and vapourish lay
+the heavens above us. We slept during<span class="pagenum" id="Page_452">[452]</span> the day, and travelled in the
+afternoon. The snow became deeper and deeper, and it was with great
+difficulty that we could bring the sledge along; completely exhausted,
+we rested some hours by Cape Berlin. On the 10th of May, after four
+hours’ march, we had scarcely made half a German mile (two miles and a
+half English), and in this distance had sunk deep in the snow at every
+step; only by “Aussingen,”<a id="FNanchor_73" href="#Footnote_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> with jerks, could one get the sledge
+along—a most depressing and fatiguing expedient. But the prospect in
+the Fjord, beyond a snow waste, two German miles and a half broad,
+which we still had to cross, was somewhat more favourable, and greatly
+raised our hopes; and, indeed, we did find a good road, as on the
+evening of the 10th of May (19° Fahr.) we started for Cape Hamburg, at
+the mouth of the Fligely Fjord. As a rule, we could now make more than
+260 steps within five minutes; and as on the morning of the 11th (19°
+Fahr.) we stopped, the reddish gneiss wall of this promontory, with its
+winding strata and masses of granite, was only one nautical mile and a
+half distant. At its foot we hoped to find some smooth ice.</p>
+
+<p>In order to lighten the sledge as much as possible, we proposed
+erecting a depôt here, so that all articles of clothing that could be
+dispensed with, as well as all provisions for the return journey, were
+placed in a sack.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p4521_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p4521_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_452"><i>Page 452.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">DEEP SNOW TRAVELLING.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>In the evening we started again (19.5° Fahr.), but at the very next
+step the difficulties increased to such a pitch that we were almost in
+despair. From seventy steps a minute it fell to twenty, and at last we
+stood still. The sledge sank in softened snow, and was scarcely to be
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_453">[453]</span>moved, even by our taking circuits of a wide radius. We ourselves,
+during the last three days of great exertion, had sunk step by step up
+to our knees. That, under such circumstances, it was no easy matter
+to get the sledge along, need be hardly said. For days together the
+monotonous rhythm of the “Yo! heave, oh!” might be heard at the foot of
+the walls.</p>
+
+<p>The bright light of the white flakes worked the exhausted travellers
+almost to madness. Only the third part or half of the baggage could be
+carried at a time; we were, therefore, obliged to go over the same bit
+of road three and sometimes five times. Every ten steps the sledge had
+to be formally dug out; indeed, the bit passed over was like a hollow
+way, and as the snow became softer, and the tide rose from the edge of
+the coast, penetrating the under layers, it became like a perfect bog,
+and we could do nothing but kneel and pull along in the snow. As by
+this means one could only advance a few hundred steps daily, and that
+our last night’s encampment was still within gunshot, it seemed almost
+impossible for us ever to reach the land, although we had approached
+the coast within half a nautical mile.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the 11th and 12th of May passed; the snow-storms of the last few
+days had lost their terrific character of the earlier months, and
+offered no serious hindrance. The continued jerking forward of the
+sledge had given us all a violent headache, the throbbing of which was
+most painful. We had carried the greater part of the baggage 800 paces
+forward—our whole day’s march—and had returned to fetch the tent and
+the remainder, but, before taking it down, we rested for half an hour,
+when, upon going out, we saw three bears inspecting it, the result of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_454">[454]</span>
+which might prove its total destruction. Quickly we fired some alarm
+shots. This succeeded: but we feared that they had already had time to
+do much damage. I was particularly anxious about my large work, for in
+it was the whole material of the geographical discoveries of the four
+sledge journeys, and its destruction would have been an irreparable
+loss.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could have impressed us more with the astonishing strength
+possessed by this creature than the incredible agility with which it
+escaped, although sinking deeply into the bottomless snow; we, on
+the other hand, were a long time reaching the place of apprehended
+destruction. The straps of my theodolite case had been torn off, and
+it had received several bites; the bears had devoured a piece of sugar
+and a pound and a half of cheese, our whole store of these luxuries, as
+well as every stearine candle, and had scattered the bread; but they
+had only bitten the mouth of the can of ginger flat, before throwing
+it away, and had only pulled out the cork of the spirit-can. Had not
+the latter, by some lucky chance, kept upright, the whole of our store
+would have been lost. Even the india-rubber bottles were either cut
+in pieces or totally eaten up; one corner was bitten out of a packet
+of tobacco, but evidently spat out again. The climbing-pole had been
+carried some distance by the young bear, no doubt as a plaything; we
+found it again, but without the straps, which had been eaten. My book
+was probably too tough; they had only gnawed it.</p>
+
+<p>Our further advance was not easier on the 13th of May; the thoroughly
+softened snow-drifts fell with a rush as we neared them. The transport
+of the different lots took place under endless difficulties; at noon
+the temperature<span class="pagenum" id="Page_455">[455]</span> only rose to 21° Fahr., but owing to the directness of
+the sun’s rays, it caused a glowing heat.</p>
+
+<p>As at last we arrived at the hummocks of coast ice, broken by the
+tide, and also at the foot of the wall, and had conveyed the sledge
+with much trouble over ice barriers and water-pools, we discovered to
+our horror that the Fligely Fjord, instead of being covered, as we had
+conjectured, with smooth ice, was filled with endless snow. Still we
+need not give up all hope; it was just possible that the depth of snow
+might decrease towards the back of the Fjord. Again we started on a
+weary road between the ice barriers and the rocky shore, and at last
+landed on a somewhat higher snow surface—a horrible prospect! Did we
+not know the difficulties hidden under this seeming smoothness?</p>
+
+<p>The mountains round the Fjord were, with the exception of the steep
+walls, perfectly white; the winter storms, in conjunction with much
+heavier falls than we had had in our winter harbour, seemed to have
+borne the masses of snow along with them, and dropped them on the front
+of the mountains, and sprinkled the Fjord at the same time. Nowhere
+could we see that stripe coming from the north caused by the storm, and
+always so striking on the snow-fields of the outer coast.</p>
+
+<p>Snow-buntings twittered cheerfully in our neighbourhood, a raven
+croaked from the heights, and we were not a little astonished at the
+sight of a musk-ox looking down at us from a steep overhanging rock
+several hundred feet high. We had left the sledge behind, and whilst
+Wagner had wandered in a southerly direction towards the middle of
+the Fjord, Tramnitz and Payer went along the shore, to investigate
+the possibility of further advance.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_456">[456]</span> But, as far as we could judge
+from a good height, as well as from the great depth of the snow which
+lay on all sides, we were convinced of the impossibility of reaching
+Ardencaple Inlet through Fligely Sound; so, after many hours’ fruitless
+march, we returned to our tent.</p>
+
+<p>There remained, therefore, nothing for it but to return by the
+difficult road, and seek to reach our goal by going round the east side
+of Kuhn Island. But the exertions of the last few days had so weakened
+us that we agreed to take a short rest before starting, but we had
+scarcely done so when we were surprised by a spring-tide, and we had to
+pack the sledge and start again, with divided luggage, at three a.m. on
+the 14th of May.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately the sky had clouded in the mean time, and the temperature
+had sunk to 10.5° Fahr. The snow-bog dried, the snow hardened, and
+we broke through but seldom, and in three hours we reached the
+camping-place which we had left some days before on the border of the
+snow waste. At one stroke our spirits rose so, that after a short sleep
+we made another long stretch that same day, and pitched our tent on the
+15th of May, at seven a.m. (5.5° Fahr.)</p>
+
+<p>On the soft easterly hanging slopes of Kuhn Island we saw twenty
+head of musk oxen, about 2000 paces from us. Tramnitz, our cleverest
+hunter, managed to creep near them by circuitous ways, whilst Payer
+and Herzberg undertook a geological excursion to a deep ravine on the
+coast, and made the interesting discovery that the gneiss granite
+ridge, which towered in such beautiful forms above the east coast of
+the island, was rich in extraordinary petrifactions, in strata of
+fuller’s clay, coal loam, and sandstone. The same formation leading
+to <span class="pagenum" id="Page_457">[457]</span>coal we had seen the previous summer on the south side of the
+island. Tramnitz was less fortunate; he returned empty-handed, with
+a broken gun and torn clothing, informing us that he had been thrown
+down by a musk-ox and trampled on. In a hunting expedition with Wagner,
+somewhat later, one of them was killed.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p4561_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p4561_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_456"><i>Page 456.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">DEATH OF THE MUSK-OX.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The rise of the mean temperature, and uninterrupted daylight had in the
+meanwhile entirely altered the physiognomy of the land. Organic life
+woke once more in the few plants peculiar to the Arctic climate; under
+the snow bridges and ice vaults might be heard the whisper of trickling
+water; long trains of eider ducks came from the south; light-grey
+lemmings rushed terrified over the stony rubbish; yellowish brown
+caterpillars crawled with fruitless industry over the same; white hares
+revelled amongst the young shoots of moss; slender reindeer frequented
+the deep furrows of the glacier streams; and over the sunny surface of
+the water, although some distance from us, rose the curious head of the
+seal.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile we had lost so much time that the success of our undertaking
+depended greatly upon a steady favourable road for the future, and
+above all whether the snow-fields over which our return road lay were
+accessible. At last we were entirely dependent upon hunting; for before
+the musk-ox was killed, which gave us fifty-six pounds of meat, our
+provisions had consisted chiefly of coffee and hard bread.</p>
+
+<p>Mieders had become snow-blind; so upon starting in the evening we put
+him in the midst of us to drag the sledge. The application of wet
+bandages during the march, (which a month before had been impossible,)
+relieved him in the course of a week from this painful<span class="pagenum" id="Page_458">[458]</span> evil. The
+nights were foggy and sultry, and Tramnitz, who until now had attended
+to the observations of temperature, was also snow-blind.<a id="FNanchor_74" href="#Footnote_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a></p>
+
+<p>The snow was now soft again; and again began the horrible “Aussingen,”
+and forward jerking of the sledge, and though we lightened it by
+leaving a sack behind a block of rock, we scarcely moved from the
+spot, and were obliged to encamp sooner than we intended from sheer
+exhaustion.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th of May the temperature of the snow rose to 25.5° Fahr.;
+thick fog, and a heavy fall of snow prevented us starting again until
+the evening, and during the whole of that night’s march we could not
+see ten steps before us, we were constantly losing our course and were
+obliged at last to have recourse to the compass.</p>
+
+<p>On the 17th (14° Fahr.) despite a violent snow-storm we pressed
+onward, passed the mouth of the romantic Bay of Bastian, and arrived
+on the morning of the 18th at the foot of Cape Bremen, which forms the
+south-easterly corner of Ardencaple Inlet.</p>
+
+<p>The depth of the snow had confined our progress during the last few
+days to from three-quarters to one and a quarter German miles; and our
+strength from the exertion of pulling the sledge had greatly decreased.
+Icebergs only at a little distance seemed inaccessible.</p>
+
+<p>The period for successful sledge journeys was now quite over, and we
+had to climb half-way up to an horizontal stretching mass of dolerite,
+in order to decide whether it would be desirable either to advance
+through Ardencaple<span class="pagenum" id="Page_459">[459]</span> Inlet or undertake a geological examination of Kuhn
+Island and finish our trigonometrical survey.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th therefore Payer, with Herzberg and Wagner climbed to a
+steep snow-field, then over a mountain steep which with rugged walls
+of gneiss fell in a mountain ridge towards Ardencaple Bay, the highest
+point of which we reached after a three and a half hour’s march.</p>
+
+<p>Clear weather favoured the extensive and highly interesting view from
+the Sattelberg and the Pendulum Island, as far as the northern edge
+of Koldewey Island. For eight hours we were able to sketch the whole
+of the panorama, and complete the triangle of our trigonometrical
+measurement. Ardencaple Inlet, far below us, was as well as Fligely
+Fjord covered with an uninterrupted sheet of snow, the nature and
+depth of which Tramnitz had undertaken to investigate; the large Fjord
+opening in the north-west corner of Ardencaple Bay we could follow from
+our standing point for at least fifty miles; it then seemed to curve
+inwards to the west, but thus far it lay as if sketched upon a map. At
+its exit west from the imposing and evidently crystalline mountain mass
+of Cape Klinkerfues, the Wildspitze, and the Matterhorns, lay countless
+icebergs enclosed. The existence of large glaciers in this Fjord could
+not be doubted, though few were visible.</p>
+
+<p>The snow surfaces between Kuhn and Shannon Islands were divided
+into two parts by a sharp line, the nearer one distinguished by its
+smoothness, and the further one by its undulatory character. But
+appearances were deceitful; for the smooth surface consisted of
+perfectly soft snow.</p>
+
+<p>The increasing difficulties of advancing, the decrease<span class="pagenum" id="Page_460">[460]</span> of our
+provisions, and lastly the advanced time of year, all warned us to
+return to the ship within a week. During that time it would have been
+impossible even under the most favourable condition of the snow, to
+investigate the Fjord to any extent, as from our elevated standing
+point we could see. We therefore decided to alter our plans on the spot
+and to give all the time we possibly could to the exploration of Kuhn
+Island. Events showed that we had made a happy choice.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p4600_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p4600_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">DEPÔT ON KUHN ISLAND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>After raising a trigonometrical signal on the top, about six feet high,
+in the shape of a massive stone cone, we returned to our tent, which
+had been guarded by Mieders who was still snow-blind. An attempt to
+measure the height of the mountain by the aneroid had failed from its
+being disturbed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_461">[461]</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 20th May (17.5° Fahr.) we began our return march, the deserted
+camp forming as usual a deep hole in the snow.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st (10° Fahr.) we reached the middle of a segmental projection
+on the east side of Kuhn Island which rose in undulations to a height
+of 1020 feet. This projection consisted of layers of slaty sandstone
+and marl, the petrifactions showing that this deposit was of the
+secondary formation, lying like a cloak on the westerly rising of
+crystalline stone. The surface of this formation was covered with an
+erratic covering of rubbish of the last-named stone.</p>
+
+<p>On the 22nd and 23rd we explored the individual strata of the
+formation; they showed a perfect agreement with those on the south side
+of Kuhn Island, a westerly incline of 7°, coal clay, petrifactions
+(Inocerames, Ammonites, Belemnites, &amp;c.), bluish-grey fuller’s clay,
+thin stratas of marl, and rather coarse-grained granite alternated with
+each other.</p>
+
+<p>Coal-beds were nowhere to be seen. But about under the summit of the
+“black wall” we found some sandstone and small pieces of coal.</p>
+
+<p>Several masses of dolerite ran horizontally through the upper bank of
+the sedimentary layers.</p>
+
+<p>Hochstetter’s Promontory bore the same geological character, so that
+both these spots possibly belong to the later secondary sedimentary
+rocks, only interrupted by the sinking of Ardencaple Inlet.</p>
+
+<p>Much damage did our stay here cause amongst a herd of musk-oxen. On the
+21st Tramnitz shot a cow; on the 22nd Wagner surprised the whole herd
+while sleeping, and killed a bull; and on the following day another
+fell<span class="pagenum" id="Page_462">[462]</span> by Payer’s hand, who at once sketched the beast as it lay; and
+lastly Tramnitz brought home a calf and a hare.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th, shortly before midnight, Payer, Herzberg, and Wagner
+started to climb the “black wall,” to convert this favourable position
+of the highest (3675 feet) mountain on the island into use for
+surveying purposes. The way led first through a high-lying valley
+enclosed between beautiful walls, from the ice basin of which ran
+slopes of snow at an inclination of 45°, interrupted at intervals
+by projecting rocks; then over some syenite gneiss and brown coal
+sandstone to the summit, after five hours’ march.</p>
+
+<p>This consists of a rugged mass about 155 feet high, in the shape of a
+dome, surrounded by slender dolerite columns. This sort of stone forms
+here, and in many other parts of Kuhn Island, a sort of causeway on the
+mountain ridge, frequently in connexion with dolerite amygdaloia.</p>
+
+<p>The climbing of this mountain was rendered particularly important by
+the discovery of a new sound, which seemed to connect the south-west
+corner of Fligely Fjord with Ardencaple Inlet. The pack-ice outside
+reached to the outer horizon, though there were several navigable
+channels to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>Payer finished his work in six hours; and, after erecting one massive
+stone cairn, we started for the tent, which we reached in four hours
+and a half.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from this now ran a rushing stream down a deep cleft filled
+with snow. It was the first time since September that we had water
+without melting, water to the full; it was also the first time that we
+were able to wash ourselves, and drink as much as we wanted.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th of May the temperature rose to 32.9° Fahr.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_463">[463]</span> The dispersion
+of the snow went on quickly, and as we were constantly sinking in it a
+base was measured on the surface of the sea-ice, by the help of which
+we took the altitude of the Black Wall. Whilst we slept during the day
+the temperature rose in the tent to 73.5° Fahr.; we therefore now slept
+outside instead of inside the sleeping sack. Flies sunned themselves on
+the tent-walls, and the heat was as overpowering as under the leaden
+roofs of Venice. Rheumatism, pains in the loins, and similar affections
+now made their appearance, as for two months we had slept on the snow,
+without interruption, and it now melted under us from the warmth of the
+body and completely wetted us through.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th, after the last geological excursion had been made, we
+began our return to the ship. The sledge was now as heavy as when we
+started, from the collection of petrifactions, musk-ox horns, minerals,
+skins, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th we reached Cape Berlin, after great exertion, and a slow
+march lastly through drifting snow over the snowy waste at the exit of
+Fligely Fjord.</p>
+
+<p>The deep snow-drifts at the foot of Cape Berlin had in the meanwhile
+changed into kind of teeth, from the warmth and a resisting paste which
+stuck to the sledge, making it very heavy. Once more did we suffer
+(28th May, 43° Fahr.) the already-described infliction of divided
+baggage and the deep sinking in the snow.</p>
+
+<p>Not until Clavering Straits did the road improve; when near the mouth
+of Falschen Bay we passed the night, in order to be ready the next
+day for the trigonometrical and topographical survey of a mountain
+more than 2275 feet high, remarkable for its craggy formation.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_464">[464]</span> Thick
+fog, however, frustrated this intention for the time, and we began our
+return to the ship on the 29th of May.</p>
+
+<p>We reached it after an absence of twenty-one days. The pool-covered ice
+of our winter harbour we found in an advanced stage of melting, which
+the rain of the next few days hastened.</p>
+
+<p>The sky soon cleared, and within a few days the ever-increasing
+temperature enticed out of the lately frozen soil of Greenland the
+first-fruits of a scanty Flora.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_465">[465]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">HUNTING AND ANIMAL LIFE IN EAST GREENLAND.<a id="FNanchor_75" href="#Footnote_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">The Polar bear.—Its aliment.—Migration of the bears.—Natural
+History notes on the Polar bear.—Its curiosity.—Precautions
+to be adopted in bear-hunting.—Their powerful vital
+energy.—Sundry matters.—Arctic foxes.—Their natural
+history.—The reindeer.—The musk-ox.—The walrus.—The
+seal.—The Arctic hare.—Birds.—Sea animals, &amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Hunting often begins in Greenland, where it ends with us—in
+self-defence; but it possesses scientific interest for the zoologist,
+and the food obtained by it enables the explorer to remain longer away
+from the ship.</p>
+
+<p>There is the zoological, the geographical, and the pleasure hunt; the
+latter is of the least frequent occurrence.</p>
+
+<p>Hunting the bear or the walrus is attended with considerable danger;
+that of the musk-ox, reindeer, fox, birds, and sea-animals affords only
+amusement.</p>
+
+<p>The polar bear,<a id="FNanchor_76" href="#Footnote_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> which, with his yellowish-white shaggy skin and
+black nose, forms a sharp contrast against the snow-fields at a
+long distance off, weighs from ten to twelve hundredweight, and far
+surpasses in size those specimens in zoological gardens or menageries
+(which are brought over young, and developed under such unfavourable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_466">[466]</span>
+circumstances); it is surpassed by neither the lion nor the tiger in
+point of strength, and is quite as dangerous. But the cold zone in
+which it lives<a id="FNanchor_77" href="#Footnote_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> cools its blood; it is wary and mistrustful. The
+contradictory reports of their courage shows that one must never judge
+one specimen by another, but that each individual is guided by its need
+of food at the moment.</p>
+
+<p>It lives chiefly on seals, watching for them through the ice-fissures,
+and falls upon them whilst sunning themselves, with all the cunning of
+the tiger, and the same stealthy step. It also pursues the seal even
+when diving, for it is a powerful swimmer, and only the reindeer excels
+it in speed. Over jagged rocky declivities it climbs with cat-like
+dexterity. The roughness of its soles, its claws, and hairy paws,
+insure its safety equally on smooth or sloping ice-surfaces. Payer
+skinned the hind-feet of a bear we had killed, carefully cleaned them
+from all fat, rubbed them with alum, and wore them himself—they were
+beautiful warm stockings, for the bear had good soles. Unfortunately
+they were lost in a fire on board during the winter.</p>
+
+<p>As the seals remain chiefly among the pack-ice, or on its outer edge,
+so also the bear during the summer is a frequent visitor. It follows
+the seal-hunters step for step, in order to devour the skinned animals,
+or when revelling in excess swims to the carcase of a whale. The bear
+kills its prey before eating it, although it likes to play with it
+first. It rides on the floes in the Arctic current down to Iceland. It
+is often seen miles from land, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_467">[467]</span> swims towards boats or ships, until
+driven back by shots. When glutted with the enjoyment of fat seals it
+varies its diet by ducks’ eggs, and a few hours is quite enough for it
+to clear a small island entirely.</p>
+
+<p>It is certainly hard for the Arctic traveller to be exposed to the
+tender mercies of a bear’s two-inch incisors; but a gun, and a pocket
+filled with cartridges, are a much more simple process than dragging a
+dead seal about after one. If you are unarmed, the slightest movement
+disquiets the bear, and provokes him to action. But it is a much more
+serious matter to meet him in the darkness, and be mistaken for a seal,
+a mistake only cleared up when it is too late. If you are armed, the
+coolness of his adversary inspires the bear with a certain amount of
+respect.</p>
+
+<p>But the bear also deserves our compassion. His life is one continued
+pursuit of food, although he is protected from the cold by a layer of
+fat several inches thick. Once we found in the stomach of one that had
+belonged to a besieging corps (which during the whole of the winter and
+spring had watched the frozen ship closely, and had forced us to be
+wonderfully cautious), nothing but a flannel lappet, which our tailor
+had thrown away, and in the case of many others it was quite empty.
+Sometimes the stomach of a dead bear contains nothing but water, and
+large pieces of sea-weed (<i>Laminaria</i>), so that hunger compels
+it to eat herbs. It is certainly no trifle in this world of frost,
+cold, and darkness, with its horrible snow-storms, that mountains only
+can offer sufficient obstacles to his wanderings for food amidst the
+chaotic crowding and towering ice-fields, surrounded by fissures, or
+floating out to sea on an ice-floe. Certainly its brown<span class="pagenum" id="Page_468">[468]</span> cousin in
+Europe lives in luxury compared with him, and is comparatively to be
+envied.</p>
+
+<p>In the early part of the year the layer of fat, which lies under the
+skin in the summer and autumn, quite fails. A large male bear, killed
+near the ship on the 1st of April, 1870, was dreadfully lean; while a
+female bear, shot on Sabine Island, the 7th of July, 1870, was rather
+fat.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the much agitated question as to whether the bear
+hybernates, we could make no direct observation. But we can say at what
+time of year we saw them. On the 10th of January, 1870, one came to the
+ship, and we hunted him, but he escaped; on the 13th of January, 1870,
+Theodore Klentzer was pursued by one; on the 6th of March, Dr. Börgen
+was attacked by another; afterwards they visited us daily. When I add
+that Copeland fought with one near Cape Borlase Warren, on the 28th of
+October, 1869, one may easily see that their winter sleep, if they have
+any, must either be very short or very disturbed. On the 9th of March
+we saw a bear in a storm, wandering about with powerful strides, and
+seeming to think nothing of the bad weather, although a man, protected
+by the best of clothes, could scarcely have moved from the spot.</p>
+
+<p>The bear which we shot on the 1st of April, about 300 steps from the
+ship, cost us the greatest exertions to drag away against the north
+wind.</p>
+
+<p>The smell of burnt fat draws the creatures from miles round. In their
+wanderings they climb high groups of ice, and one can sometimes see
+them looking far out, with their snouts in the air, smelling for food.
+The Esquimaux often catch them by it,—a manœuvre, which requires
+cleverness and self-possession: and many of them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_469">[469]</span> bear marks of the
+battle fought under such circumstances. Head wounds excepted, a shot
+will sometimes take away all power of resistance in the strangest
+manner. Meetings with bears are attended by very different results.
+It often happens that a party of sledge travellers, under peculiar
+circumstances, and with but little time to spare, pass one, or more of
+them, sometimes but a few steps off, when they cause no other feeling
+than that of curiosity and astonishment.</p>
+
+<p>Krauschner, the engineer, was the snow-purveyor for the kitchen, and
+had to go twice a day with his sledge to the neighbouring glacier.
+Once a bear attached himself to him. He walked with dignified steps as
+an escort behind the sledge, and not until the engineer had reached
+the ship did our shout of alarm make him aware of the presence of his
+somewhat doubtful friend.</p>
+
+<p>On the whole, the flesh of the bear (particularly that of the old
+animals) is far inferior to that of the brown bear. It is coarse and
+tough, and tastes more or less of train oil. Barentz and many others
+maintain that the liver is prejudicial to health. The flesh, however,
+we have always found wholesome, and the Esquimaux west of Davis Straits
+give it to their dogs.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes, on our sledge journeys, we were surprised in the tent; but
+we never set a thorough watch, chiefly because we none of us really
+slept, and a large creature like that could not approach without a
+slight rustle.</p>
+
+<p>A tent is to a bear thoroughly unintelligible, and an object alike
+of mistrust and curiosity. One of Kane’s companions, who was roused
+by the growling of a bear and the appearance of its head through the
+aperture of the tent, had the presence of mind to put a lighted box
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_470">[470]</span> lucifer-matches under his nose, an insult which he magnanimously
+forgave, and disappeared at once.</p>
+
+<p>Our first meeting with one was on the 4th of August, among the
+pack-ice, the day before we landed in Greenland. We had laid to by a
+large ice-floe, when about 300 steps from us we saw two bears. The
+burning of seals’ fat had drawn their attention, for their black
+nozzles were high in the air, though they were shy of approaching the
+ship. Copeland, Sengstacke, and Payer got into the boat, and under
+cover of the steep floe, rowed towards them; but the newly-formed ice,
+which filled a creek in the floe, only admitted of Payer’s landing.
+He shot hurriedly and missed, and they at once disappeared among the
+hummocks.</p>
+
+<p>It is not advisable to approach such a powerful enemy, unless he is
+completely disabled. We met with bears which stood as firm as a rock
+against the shot, although at every bullet they quivered violently, and
+streams of blood flowed from them.<a id="FNanchor_78" href="#Footnote_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a></p>
+
+<p>Void of all fat, and hungry, these beasts of prey haunted the coast,
+until upon discovering the ship, the movements of the men at once drew
+their attention, and they never left the neighbourhood of Griper Roads
+(the name of the winter harbour). Whoever went into the open air,
+though only a few steps from the ship, during the long polar night,
+required his gun at half-cock. One night the engineer, as he came on
+deck, heard a great rustle; and in the morning footprints<span class="pagenum" id="Page_471">[471]</span> showed that
+a bear had advanced over the snow to the tent.</p>
+
+<p>These besiegers also paid repeated visits to our provisions on land;
+but they played our astronomers the worst trick, for they carried
+off the measuring apparatus for deciding the length of the base. The
+greatest evil for sledge-travellers is, that however important a depôt
+they may make for provisions, they can never leave it secure from
+these <i>feræ</i> of the ice. The best way is to hang a sack upon an
+inaccessible wall of rock. The strength which the bears possess in
+digging out anything that is buried is astonishing. Covering over with
+frozen sand and water is better than the heaviest stone, because it
+blunts the bear’s claws.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of their great numbers seldom more than three (and that a
+family) are ever seen together.<a id="FNanchor_79" href="#Footnote_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> It is always well understood that
+the old ones must be killed first, for a she-bear deprived of her cubs
+is a terrible adversary. If they are only wounded, she pushes them
+before her or defends them with her own body, though a cub will never
+hesitate to devour the flesh of its mother.</p>
+
+<p>The ice-fields of its native home are pleasant to the bear, and it will
+not willingly part from them.</p>
+
+<p>The whaler “Bienenkorb,” which we visited in 1869, had one in a cage on
+deck; and when, from the strong motion of the ship, it caught sight of
+the ice, it began to howl dismally. Indeed, the sight of the drift-ice
+worked so powerfully on the creature, that they were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_472">[472]</span> at last obliged
+to hang a veil of sail-cloth before the cage.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23rd of August, on our return voyage, we saw through the
+pack-ice, half hidden by the fog, the three last bears, and as it fell
+they seemed to be taking leave of us in a stage tableau.</p>
+
+<p>The Arctic fox (<i>Canis lagopus</i>, L.<a id="FNanchor_80" href="#Footnote_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a>) is a very interesting
+species of its genus. It is either (and that irrespective of the time
+of year) bluish white or grey.<a id="FNanchor_81" href="#Footnote_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> Its coat, which is wonderfully
+soft, forms an article of commerce with the Hudson’s Bay Company. It
+is considerably smaller in bulk than the polar hare, which, when grown
+up, generally weighs eight pounds and three-quarters. Its flesh is no
+delicacy. Barentz, and since him several other Arctic travellers, have,
+however, found it enjoyable, and we (Pansch and Copeland) did our best
+to eat it.</p>
+
+<p>The Arctic fox has, with but few exceptions, none of the cunning
+attributed to our own Reynard. At least our recollections of it (except
+in one or two cases) are of a most harmless character. During the
+winter we succeeded in catching some after the manner of the Esquimaux.
+Once one was taken out of the trap and laid down for dead, but after a
+time it sprang up and rushed away. For the young ducks, for which it
+has a great weakness, the fox is a bitter enemy. It lives upon anything
+it can get in winter, even shell-fish and other saltwater produce which
+is brought by the tide on to the strand-ice. In the summer lemmings
+seem to be its chief food.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_473">[473]</span></p>
+
+<p>Nearly the whole of the winter and spring we kept some prisoners in
+the engine-room; in such close proximity to the coals they all turned
+black. Two of them died of tubercles on the lungs. A beautiful grey fox
+had to be garotted in the cabin for refractoriness; another was set
+free, and the last deserted the cage that we had made it and put upon
+the ice near the ship. This desertion, which was brought about by the
+melting and falling down of the block of ice on which the cage stood,
+and which we all witnessed from the deck, had something particularly
+comical about it. The fox, which had almost waned away to a skeleton,
+began to stretch himself, then to stick out his bushy tail like a
+broom, wriggled his lanky body into a pool of water, and lastly, as
+elegantly as a dancing-master and as if longing for liberty, started
+off, without deigning to cast another look at the ship.</p>
+
+<p>The European fox shuns mankind, but the Greenland fox seeks his society
+in perfect innocence, and without any suspicion, for it hopes to
+profit by him. It is the first, after a fortunate day’s hunting, to
+show its astonishment, and also hasten to enjoy the spoil, as well as
+steal a reindeer ham from the sledge in the night, and carry it away.
+It accompanies him on hunting and sledge journeys at a respectful
+distance, and employs his time of rest in visiting, opening, and
+plundering the sack of provisions. An ice-bound ship it watches with
+great favour, for there is always some lucky chance bringing him chance
+of profit, and things which can easily be carried away. Indeed, it is
+so accustomed to spunging upon others that it is often difficult to
+make him ashamed of himself.</p>
+
+<p>If, after hours of constant gnawing, or, when in company<span class="pagenum" id="Page_474">[474]</span> with others,
+his envious snarling, one goes out of the tent to stop his tugging
+at the ropes, instead of going away humbly, he looks boldly into his
+benefactor’s face, barks at the firing, and goes off reluctantly.</p>
+
+<p>At other times they come curiously trotting along, not allowing
+themselves to be frightened by the firing, and a piece of bacon-rind
+will entice them to follow the sledge for miles. It is a troublesome
+piece of work to skin a fox newly killed, in the icy cold; its warm
+skin forming a warmer neck-tie on that account.</p>
+
+<p>The Greenland reindeer (<i>Tarandus rangifer</i>, L., var.
+<i>Groenlandicus</i>) differs at least from the American, Laplandish,
+and Spitzbergen species. Its horns are not shovelled at the tips, like
+theirs; they are also more upright. It carries its head and neck high;
+its whole build is elegant, and reminds one, in every respect, of the
+European deer. Kane and Hayes also met with them in the most northerly
+parts of West Greenland. Our excursions taught us that they increase
+in numbers towards the interior of the country; indeed, at the back of
+Kaiser Franz-Joseph Fjord, in the neighbourhood of a glacier remarkable
+for its luxuriant vegetation, we came upon a tolerably good footpath
+trodden by the reindeer.</p>
+
+<p>The musk-ox,<a id="FNanchor_82" href="#Footnote_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> properly speaking, the sheep-ox (<i>Ovibos
+moschatus</i>, Blainv.), is somewhat smaller than the European ox. Its
+threatening appearance is quite in contrast to its harmless nature;
+its colour is black; its hair long, and falling in rough manes, though
+on its back is some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_475">[475]</span> wool, not to be surpassed in fineness.<a id="FNanchor_83" href="#Footnote_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> Payer
+pulled out the wool of three that were killed, on Kuhn Island, to wrap
+up a number of fossils in, for transportation, and took a careful
+sketch of one of the most stately. Its eyes are particularly small.</p>
+
+<p>As the name implies, the creature is distinguished according to its
+age, some more, some less, by the smell of musk in its flesh and fat;
+to which, however, one can as easily accustom oneself as to the smell
+of train oil. Its flesh, upon the whole, greatly resembles that of
+our own ox.<a id="FNanchor_84" href="#Footnote_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> The first we saw and killed was on Shannon Island,
+in August, 1869. As we did not then know this animal, we made the
+strangest guesses, comparing it to a gnu.</p>
+
+<p>Like the reindeer, it lives on vegetable food, which is scanty enough
+here.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely anywhere in Greenland does the Flora suffice to change the
+face of the soil; at the utmost, it only serves to shade it. Moss,
+lichen, greyish-green grasses, ranunculus, saxifrage, &amp;c., form meagre
+solitary patches amongst the weather-beaten stone heaps. Here and
+there the plains are covered with birch bushes, a few inches high (the
+stems of which are often no thicker than a lucifer-match), also with
+bilberry-bushes, but more often with sallows, creeping along the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Almost every species of the Flora of the plain, especially<span class="pagenum" id="Page_476">[476]</span> the
+garden-poppy, did we find on mountains from 1625 to 3250 feet high. On
+the summit of a rock 7495 feet high grew, near the well-known black
+and yellow lichen, known everywhere in the European Alps as the last
+representative of vegetation, a long, fibrous kind of moss.</p>
+
+<p>The greater summer warmth of the rocky interior of the country insures
+there a more varied Flora. Former Esquimaux settlements, if only
+covering a few square fathoms, were at once recognizable from their
+light green colour, caused by constant manuring. Meadows, in our sense
+of the term, were nowhere to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>How far north the musk-ox and the reindeer are found we can scarcely
+decide. The first we met in 77° N. Lat., and the last only in 75°. The
+scanty means of existence afforded by the soil compel them to constant
+wanderings.</p>
+
+<p>Both animals are almost always met with in herds, sometimes of from
+twenty to thirty head. The greatest number of reindeer we ever saw were
+about 100 to 200 head, on a hilly ground to the west of Cape Broer
+Ruys; and the greatest number of musk-oxen in the brown-coal district
+of Kuhn Island. To the former we gave battle.</p>
+
+<p>Their behaviour towards the hunter is in no way similar. The reindeer
+approaches him at a brisk trot, full of curiosity, to within a few
+steps; indeed, sometimes they come quite close to him. The musk-ox
+remains as if rooted to the spot, staring at the strange, unknown
+enemy, and arrives very slowly at a resolution.</p>
+
+<p>At Cape Philip-Broke four of them most humbly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_477">[477]</span> condescended to play
+with Payer by pretending to carry off his portable table. Older animals
+stand fire most coolly, even after being wounded, and amuse themselves
+by defending the most exposed part by putting down their heads, which
+is their invulnerable part. One of them once received a shot from
+a Wanzl-gun on his mailed forehead without showing the slightest
+annoyance. The ball fell a flattened disc on to the ground!</p>
+
+<p>If a family, or a herd with young ones, are surprised, they either form
+a square (the young being in the centre, and the old outside, with
+their heads down), or else the bull, placed as a sentinel, takes to
+flight, and the others follow closely, the placing of their outposts
+being astonishing. They are also excellent climbers. A retreating
+herd climbed a snow-path at an incline of not less than 45° on a high
+mountain near our winter harbour, and to our great astonishment we
+saw one looking down upon us from between the craggy walls of Cape
+Hamburg.<a id="FNanchor_85" href="#Footnote_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> At the first shot a herd of approaching reindeer will make
+a spring and then stand terrified; the next shot, or the fall of one
+of them, puts them to flight. It costs something thus to dispel their
+innocent confidence.</p>
+
+<p>Once a reindeer ran hurriedly over the land to a boat that was landing.
+It stood close to us on the shore, with its head stretched out, and its
+large soft eyes watching us confidingly. One of us sprang hastily on
+shore, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_478">[478]</span> it ran off. Another time a number of them came close to the
+tent. But a scene took place, which many of our hunting friends would
+envy us, in a herd near Cape Bennet, in August, 1870. We had just left
+our boat, which we were going to load with seven carcasses which we had
+killed some days before and left behind; but unfortunately they had
+all turned bad, as we had neglected to open them. Suddenly there came
+from twenty to thirty head over the mountain-slope, and upon reaching a
+snow-field all lay down, enticed by the refreshing coolness and our own
+example, as we had just done the same thing. As, however, we started to
+continue our journey, the front guard of the reindeer rose to do the
+same; but it happened that one of them—evidently the leader—seemed
+displeased that the greater number took no notice of the movement, as
+they desired to have a little more rest; so it stopped the others,
+turned back, and went to each animal separately, pushing it with its
+horns, until they all stood up and began their march together to a new
+grazing-place. The flesh of the reindeer is good, though somewhat soft
+and spongy.</p>
+
+<p>It is plain that these creatures were very useful to us, and that
+without them we should often have been in a sad predicament.
+Unfortunately, our furthest and most productive hunt took place shortly
+before we left Greenland, and over against the island Jan-Mayen. We
+had to throw more than a thousand pounds of reindeer and musk-oxen
+flesh overboard, as the rising of the temperature beyond the pack-ice,
+together with the damp, turned it all bad.</p>
+
+<p>If any creature deserves the name of monster, it is the walrus. It is
+from 9 feet 6 inches to 16 feet 6 inches long,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_479">[479]</span> weighs about 20 cwt.,
+and its skin is 3½ inches thick (a sort of massive coat of mail), with
+a head of infinite ugliness, rather large eyes, and tusks sometimes 30
+inches long (of a sort of ivory), which helps the creature to obtain
+his food (chiefly mussels) from the bottom of the sea, and, together
+with the breast-fins, help him to climb on to the floating ice to a
+place of rest. Round his jaws are long cat-like bristles, as thick as a
+large darning-needle. Demoniacal as his appearance is, his voice is as
+bad—a jerking, imitative scream, lowing and puffing, often repeated,
+and in which it seems to delight. Walruses and seals, from their
+richness in train-oil, are highly estimated in the Arctic fishery, and
+are invaluable to the Esquimaux—indeed, in many cases when, either
+from the blocking up of the coast with ice or the retreating of the
+herd, they have been unable to catch any, they have almost died of
+hunger. One way the Esquimaux have of killing the seals is to approach
+them by degrees with a white screen, behind which they crouch, and
+another by lying in ambush amongst the ice and harpooning them.</p>
+
+<p>One of the largest walruses that we saw was killed on the ice, near
+Shannon, on the 27th of August, 1869, by Dr. Copeland. It measured 9
+feet 11 inches in length. The skin is particularly flexible and soft,
+and the leather we used for straps for the machinery.</p>
+
+<p>The time it remains under water depends (I think) upon the time the
+creature has had for preparation. If a walrus is suddenly hunted
+from his sleep into the water, it must rise again immediately to the
+surface. Now it takes a deep breath. If it is again hunted, it comes up
+again; if this is repeated five or six times, the walrus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_480">[480]</span> then seems to
+be provided with a store, for now it dives in reality, and is seldom
+seen again.</p>
+
+<p>Walrus-hunting is very dangerous, for in its fury this animal can break
+through ice six inches thick. If, therefore, it is not met with on
+strong old ice, it is necessary to change one’s place very quickly, for
+(as is the case with all mammals) the walrus is obliged to come to the
+surface of cracks, or ice-holes, kept open for the purpose, in order
+to breathe every ten minutes. The animals notice exactly the direction
+and the distance of their enemy, and emerge at the spot to meet and
+destroy him. Returning from the sledge journey from Tiroler Fjord, we
+had abundant opportunity of proving this.</p>
+
+<p>Contrasted with its ferocity in the water there is nothing more
+innocent and harmless than a herd of walruses sunning themselves on
+an ice-floe or the shore, or, indeed, sleeping on the water; but
+unfortunately the comparison with a torpedo (which, for fear of some
+accident, one dares not touch) is only too well founded. A single
+ice-floe often bears twenty and sometimes a much larger number of these
+creatures, their dark, sphynx-like bodies lying close together; the
+head, from their long tusks, leaning sideways or upon one another;
+and thus they sleep away the greater part of their existence in the
+sun, lulled by the rushing and roaring of the breakers. The walrus,
+surprised on shore or on an ice-field, is utterly helpless; and
+although it strikes furiously on all sides with its teeth, is just as
+harmless as it is terrible when its anger is roused in the water. One
+peculiarity, which under some circumstances may be very dangerous, is
+its great curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>Should one of these monsters see a boat, it raises itself<span class="pagenum" id="Page_481">[481]</span> astonished
+above the surface, utters at once a cry of alarm, swimming towards
+it as quickly as possible. This call brings up others, awakens the
+sleepers which the boat had carefully avoided, and in a short time the
+small vessel is followed by a number of these monsters, blustering
+in apparent or real fury in all their hideousness. The creatures may
+possibly be only actuated by curiosity, but their manner of showing it
+is unfortunately so ill-chosen that one feels obliged to act on the
+defensive. The bellowing, jerking, and diving herd is now but a short
+distance from the boat. The first shot strikes, and this inflames their
+wrath, and now begins a wild fight in which some of the black sphynxes
+are struck with axes on the flappers, with which they threaten to
+overturn the boat. Others of the men defend themselves with a spear or
+with the blade of an oar.</p>
+
+<p>Often, from some unknown cause, these creatures turn suddenly from the
+fight, jerking and diving under water, and when at some distance, turn
+their ugly heads to look back, and fill the air with their vindictive
+grunts.</p>
+
+<p>In the summer of 1869 a boat excursion to Cape Wynn with difficulty
+escaped the destruction of their craft. Another time they were followed
+by a herd and succeeded in reaching the shore of an island, where,
+though only for a short time, they were blockaded in. The longer you
+live in Arctic regions the less can you persuade yourself to attack
+these creatures in their own element, unless forced by pressing
+circumstances, i. e., want of either food or of oil, and then it is
+advisable, if in boats, to provide oneself with cartridges. The most
+successful hunt is when these creatures are surprised on the ice-floes.
+When approaching very near them, the oars are shipped and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_482">[482]</span> boat
+noiselessly landed. The hunters get upon the floe behind the creature,
+but scarcely does one raise its head in contempt and anger than all the
+others wake up, and the whole herd press forward, pushing the young
+ones with them to the edge of the floe, where they turn head foremost
+into the water. Only this short time is at the hunter’s disposal,
+and his shots must be quick and true. Should one of the young ones
+be killed, the mother carries it with her flappers, challenging her
+enemies to fight, with a fierce look. A walrus once killed is quickly
+made fast by a rope to the boat before it sinks. The weight of these
+creatures is so enormous that two of them which we had hoisted on to
+the same side of the deck gave it a decided inclination.</p>
+
+<p>We were obliged to eat seals as well as walrus, and that too (more
+often than not) raw. Their flesh has a strong flavour of train oil;
+that of the latter is almost black, the liver a beautiful violet. Both
+creatures have the extraordinary habit of occasionally swallowing
+stones. The seal is from three to six feet long, perfectly harmless
+and defenceless. It is cautious and suspicious and will dive for the
+slightest cause. Indeed, its apish face, with its peculiar expression
+of curiosity, is in and out of the water every minute.</p>
+
+<p>Seals, too, live in herds. Seal-hunters often find hundreds on one
+ice-floe. Whilst they sleep or sun themselves they set a watch, which
+being killed, the whole herd may often be taken. A seal hunt is carried
+on in different ways; the most successful is with clubs. Their skull
+is very weak. Our bullets had the effect of blowing them to pieces.
+The most fruitful ground for seal-hunting is the neighbourhood of
+Newfoundland and the lonely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_483">[483]</span> island of Jan Mayen, lying within the
+Arctic Circle. In southern latitudes they rarely appear. When dead they
+sink very quickly.</p>
+
+<p>To the Esquimaux, the seal and walrus are of universal utility. They
+cut straps out of their skin, make dresses, finish their boats, cover
+the floors and walls of their snow-huts; their bones they use for the
+repair of their sledges and weapons, their fat as fuel, and their flesh
+for food: in a word, where Esquimaux exist, seal and walrus are eaten.</p>
+
+<p>The European hare is remarkable for its long and rapid hasty flight,
+and its timidity. The Greenland hare (<i>Lepus glacialis</i>), on the
+contrary, sits as if nailed down in its rocky refuge, however near the
+hunter may pass to him. Sometimes one sees the mountain slopes dotted
+with white spots, which from their motionlessness might be taken for
+snow; but they are only white hares. They are about the size of our
+own hares; but their flesh, like that of the Alpine hare, is insipid.
+Hare-hunting in Greenland often gives rise to the drollest scenes.
+Their hearing appears to be even weaker than their sight. Payer once
+stood near a hare, which was startled by repeated firing, but had
+confined its flight to a few steps. The creature was nibbling the
+moss quietly. Payer took out his sketch-book, and drew it in all the
+different positions which, in its uneasiness at the conversation and
+laughter of his companions, it assumed.</p>
+
+<p>The peculiar species of wolf met with in other Arctic neighbourhoods is
+not found in East Greenland; neither is the wolf-like dog, now dying
+out from disease, and upon which the existence of the Esquimaux in East
+Greenland is completely dependent.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_484">[484]</span></p>
+
+<p>Brown, in his Fauna of Greenland, believes that the dogs brought by
+Torell from Greenland to Spitzbergen in 1861, to work the sledges (a
+plan frustrated by the sea being found open), would increase rapidly,
+and return to the original wolf-type.</p>
+
+<p>They are also unknown in the north of Europe, and like the ice-bear,
+fox, and reindeer, are peculiar to the Arctic Circle.</p>
+
+<p>The remaining Fauna of this country—lemmings, butterflies, a species
+of bee, spiders, and gnats (the latter at certain times of the year,
+and in particular neighbourhoods, being a perfect plague), all possess
+a high zoological interest; but they lie beyond the descriptive limits
+of a Greenland hunt.</p>
+
+<p>Interesting, too, is the more or less periodical return of a large
+number of birds which animate the Arctic world; some for only the
+summer weeks, and some for the whole year, such as ptarmigan and ravens
+(both of which remain through the winter); a number of screaming
+birds—most of which are species of gulls distinguished by their
+greediness—such as the auks, the divers, and above all, the eider
+ducks. These cling like so many white spots to the clefted rock,
+screaming to each other or sitting in a circle on the edge of a floe.</p>
+
+<p>A short early ice-covering of the coast water, indicating the close of
+a fleeting summer, has many embarrassments for them: and soon the far
+greater part accept the signal for emigration to southern regions.</p>
+
+<p>The west coast of Greenland is much richer in birds than the east
+coast. Our share was therefore proportionately small. The flesh of
+Arctic birds has, doubtless owing to the nature of their food, a strong
+taste of train-oil.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_485">[485]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Arctic Sea is inhabited, besides small fish, by numberless
+creatures of lower development (<i>Crustacea</i>, &amp;c.), which serve
+for food to the gigantic inhabitants of the same element, such as the
+Greenland whale, the fin-backed whale, and the narwhal.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_486">[486]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XIII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">SLEDGE JOURNEYS IN SPRING. APRIL–JULY, 1870.<a id="FNanchor_86" href="#Footnote_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Excursion to Klein Pendulum.—Sledge tour to the
+Hühnerberg.—Ascent of the icebergs.—Return to the ship in a
+storm.—Second expedition to Hühnerberg and Kronenberg.—Superb
+illumination of the felspar rocks of the Hasenberg.—Return to
+Klein Pendulum.—Picturesque region of Kefersteinberg.—Starting
+for the Geodetical Expedition on the 14th of May.—Iversen
+snow-blind.—Spectacles.—Provision depôt erected.—Copeland
+and Sengstacke depart for Hochstetter’s Foreland.—Discovery
+of lignite.—A musk-ox calf caught.—First ascent of
+the Muschelberg.—Third ascent of Cape Bremen.—Sudden
+thaw.—Starting for Hochstetter’s Foreland.—Impossibility
+of advancing the sledges.—Toilsome progress.—The
+Muschelberg.—Sledges left behind.—Cape Hamburg.—The Fligely
+Fjord.—Deficiency of provisions.—Passage over Clavering’s
+Straits.—Arrival on board on 17th of July.—Magnetical and
+astronomical observations.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>In the beginning of April, the state of Dr. Börgen’s health was such
+that he was compelled to take great care of himself, and in all
+geodetical work had to content himself with being adviser only. It
+was therefore decided that on the 4th Dr. Copeland should make an
+excursion to Klein Pendulum, to choose some sites and to signal from
+thence, whether the Hühnerberg, as well as the intended stations on
+Kuhn Island and Tellplatte were visible, and therefore could be easily
+connected<span class="pagenum" id="Page_487">[487]</span> with the others on Sabine Island. On this occasion we used
+a small sledge made for the purpose by the carpenter and the smith.
+The ice was very thin, and we had to pick our way carefully along the
+“Ice-foot.” After passing the south-east point of the island we saw a
+walrus sleeping on the ice, which Copeland and Iversen killed. Upon
+skinning the creature fifteen minutes after its death, the warmth
+of the blood in the jugular vein was ninety-eight; we may therefore
+conclude that this is its true warmth, as in that short time it could
+not possibly have fallen to any extent. In the straits between the two
+islands we came upon the old ice, and started direct across to Klein
+Pendulum, where at half-past seven we raised our tent at the foot of
+the Stufenberg. The next morning was stormy, and we could not leave
+the tent until evening, when Dr. Copeland set out to find the station
+where, the summer before, we had taken our observations. We then built
+a small cairn about fourteen yards to the south-west of it, and as the
+spot is easy of access and may be visited by future travellers, the
+following particulars may be useful. The cairn stands near a group
+of Esquimaux winter huts, its top being 32 feet 9 inches above the
+mean height of the water. The latitude and longitude, according to
+observations made last autumn, is 74° 37′ 37″ North, and 1° 13′ 57″, or
+18° 29′ 2″ West from Greenwich.</p>
+
+<p>The next day was rather fine; we climbed the Stufenberg, and added
+seven feet to the height of the cairn built by Lieutenant Payer the
+year before. Through a telescope of 18-lines aperture, we could
+distinguish the small cairn built by Drs. Börgen and Copeland the
+August before on the Hühnerberg.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_488">[488]</span></p>
+
+<p>The following day, the 7th, the weather was anything but satisfactory;
+but we climbed the north-westerly height of the island, which,
+according to our chart, had been chosen as a station. This height we
+called Church Point, as the rocky masses reminded us of a church, and
+here we built a cairn; though, owing to the fog, we were unable to
+decide whether the spot would ever be useful as a station.</p>
+
+<p>Friday, 8th of April, the weather had become worse, and we were
+doubtful what to do; but at last decided that after signalling another
+point from Klein Pendulum, we should either climb the Tafelberg north
+of Hansa Bay, or any other height, then round by Sabine Island to the
+Kronenberg, in order to supply this with a cairn. But upon reaching the
+coast of Sabine Island, north of Hansa Bay, the weather had become so
+bad that we determined to return on board; and as the young ice was now
+safe, we reached the ship shortly after three p.m., although our sledge
+was heavily laden with the skin of the walrus.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday, the 11th, Dr. Copeland accompanied by Dr. Pansch, Iversen,
+and Warkmeister, started once more, this time for the mainland, to
+signal from the Hühnerberg and then to go on to the Kronenberg. By the
+time we reached the foot of the Hühnerberg it was too late to climb it,
+so we visited a glacier lying in one of those peculiar cauldron-shaped
+valleys in which the Pendulum Islands abound. The water which runs from
+this glacier in the summer finds its way by subterranean channels into
+the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The surface seemed free from cracks; but an ever-recurring cracking
+noise told us that even at this season<span class="pagenum" id="Page_489">[489]</span> of the year it was not
+motionless. The lower part stood so far behind the upper, that we were
+bound to conclude that the upper strata moved forwards quicker than
+the under. It seemed as if very recently many large ice-blocks had
+fallen, and others hung in such dangerous positions that we dared not
+venture nearer, even to get some loose stones scattered among the ice.
+The aneroid barometer gave the height of the lower edge of the glacier
+at 370 feet above the level of the sea. Pansch sketched while Copeland
+took observations. The whole of that night the thermometer stood at 22°
+below zero, but we were so heavily covered with woollen clothing that
+we did not suffer.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p4890_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p4890_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">HÜHNERBERG GLACIER.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_490">[490]</span></p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p4900_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p4900_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE KRONENBERG.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The next day we had a fresh breeze from the north, with fog. But we
+needed a clear prospect, in order to decide upon the desirability of
+the stations chosen; as we often had to give them up, when from any
+change in the refraction the distant station could not be seen. At
+about half-past one we reached the summit; to the north and west was
+still a clear view, and we recognized all that we had observed the
+year before relating to the extent of land and the formation of the
+mountains. Clavering Island, with its jagged points and rounded tops,
+seemed quite near. But there were signs of an approaching storm, and
+though from our stand-point we were at least eight nautical miles from
+open water, and eighteen from the drifting ice, we could still hear
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_491">[491]</span> cracking and pressing of the icy masses on the high seas.</p>
+
+<p>The 13th and part of the 14th we were compelled to keep in the tent,
+with nothing to read and nothing to do. The thought that our ship
+lay within seven nautical miles of us, and that the next day was
+Good Friday, raised our impatience to such a pitch that we finally
+determined in spite of the drifting snow to make an attempt to reach
+it. The chart was consulted, our course decided upon, and the tent
+poles were drawn. The deeper we got into the straits, and the less
+the wind was influenced by the mountain slopes, the more we had to
+depend upon the compass; but at last we trusted entirely to the wind,
+always keeping the same side of the body against it, as from our long
+experience we knew that during the whole of a storm the wind never
+changed its direction.</p>
+
+<p>Our way now lay along the south coast of Sabine Island; but wishing to
+avoid the deep snow and the smooth ice which alternated close to the
+shore, we kept farther out, thereby making a great mistake, for we were
+walking in a south-easterly direction straight to the open water. A
+look at the compass, however, soon set us right, and about eight p.m.
+we were once more on board.</p>
+
+<p>Good Friday, the 15th, the weather was better. Copeland employed it, as
+he was on Sabine Island, in choosing another spot on the Germaniaberg
+instead of that called No. 4, and also in simplifying the triangle.</p>
+
+<p>The 16th and 17th were unfavourable. The 18th was a glorious day. Dr.
+Copeland, accompanied by Mr. Sengstacke, Iversen, and Warkmeister,
+returned to the tent left on the Hühnerberg. It was completely snowed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_492">[492]</span>
+up, and took nearly the whole afternoon to dig out. At three the next
+morning we climbed the mountain and built a cairn. It was wonderfully
+fine, at -4° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>The cairn built on Church Point station on the 7th was just visible,
+but the direction went so straight over the slope of the Kefersteinberg
+that we feared we should have some difficulty in seeing it.</p>
+
+<p>By four p.m. we were again in the tent, and then started for the
+Kronenberg, part of our way lying along one of those long islands of
+which there are so many in Clavering Straits, and between Sabine and
+Pendulum Islands. Here, as there, they were composed of huge rocky
+masses of vertical plates of basalt, from nine to twelve feet in
+length. At half-past eight p.m. we raised our tent at the foot of the
+Kronenberg, where to our great joy we could see the newly-built cairn
+on the Hühnerberg with the naked eye.</p>
+
+<p>The next day we climbed the mountain, and were astonished to find
+yellow sandstone, while the whole crown consisted of beautiful vertical
+plates of basalt. The sandstone covers the whole of the upper part,
+and contained the remains of some carbonized plants. Upon this march
+Dr. Copeland’s eyes were severely tried by snow-blindness, as also the
+boatswain’s. On our return journey we enjoyed a beautiful sight. The
+sun was already low on the north-west horizon, so that the whole of the
+straits and the mountains of the mainland were in deep shadow. Only
+the steep cliffs of the Hasenberg shone in a purple glow, contrasting
+strangely with the azure blue of the sky and the fixed deadly whiteness
+of the snow. The colouring was sometimes so intense that one might
+fancy the basalt rocks were in a red glow of fire.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_493">[493]</span></p>
+
+<p>We reached the ship at midnight, though still in broad daylight. From
+this time until the middle of August lasted the long Arctic day of 100
+days.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Copeland suffered from snow-blindness for some time; but the
+weather was nearly always stormy and foggy, so that but little could
+be done in the open air. This enforced rest we employed in carefully
+considering our triangle. We then decided to give up the stations on
+Church Point and Stufenberg, and take instead but one station on the
+highest point of Klein Pendulum, and for those on Sabine Island take
+only the Kefersteinberg. This was a great simplifying of the area, and
+we thereby obtained a larger basis for the northern triangulation. Our
+plan was now decided upon and the measurement of the base was to be
+commenced at once. Sengstacke, Mersen and Copeland left the ship on
+Sunday the 24th of April at four a.m., without either tent or sledge,
+going through the valleys to the south-east of the island, and at
+forty-five minutes past eight reached the coast of Klein Pendulum at
+the entrance of a large valley.</p>
+
+<p>Here grew much moss, and flocks of ptarmigan were chirping as gaily
+as if they were enjoying the summer already, although the thermometer
+stood only at 32° F.</p>
+
+<p>All signals except that on the Hühnerberg were distinctly visible.
+A couple of hares which we killed here increased the weight of our
+knapsacks, but also gave us some fresh meat, which was very acceptable.
+Reaching the coast once more, we halted a short time to heat some
+frozen soup. In a temperature of -4°, with a sharp north wind blowing,
+hungry and spent as we were, we could scarcely keep ourselves warm
+until the snow was melted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_494">[494]</span></p>
+
+<p>The cairn which we built there could be seen at a distance of nearly
+forty English miles.</p>
+
+<p>In the mean time Dr. Börgen had recovered and could now take his share
+in the work. The next thing to be done before the beginning of the
+great sledge journey was the measuring of the base. We had already made
+an attempt at this, in the beginning of March, but were obliged to give
+it up. Measuring-stakes and tripods had been buried on the spot, and
+from time to time we had seen that all was right. When on the 25th we
+thought to take them up without any trouble, we found that the tripods
+which we had buried in two boxes heavily weighted with stones, were
+scattered around and that the stakes were not to be found. Since Mr.
+Sengstacke’s last visit on the 20th April a bear had no doubt been
+there, and a storm might have carried away the stakes. We had now to
+provide new ones as soon as possible, for which purpose Mr. Sengstacke
+gave us two oars belonging to the large boat, which were the required
+length of twelve feet six inches. On the morning of the 27th the
+sleighing party returned from the north. The remainder of the day was
+of course given up to them, and the joy of their return; and on the
+30th April, the first part of the base of 296 feet was again measured.
+The temperature at this time was not above 14°, and we feel sure that
+the lowness of temperature is no hindrance whatever to European base
+measurement in Arctic regions with the most delicate instruments and
+the utmost exactness.</p>
+
+<p>On an excursion to the top of the Kefersteinberg we climbed several
+gently rising valleys, and at last over a yard and a half broad
+rift, to the left of which is a very beautiful cauldron-shaped
+valley with steep walls, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_495">[495]</span> which a glacier has its rise. To the
+right the mountain declines in not very steep slopes on to the flat
+shore of Hansa Bay. One more gently sloping hill, and we are at the
+top; to the north, the declivity is so steep that the little stones
+can scarcely lie upon it without rolling. Turning from here to the
+plateau, which sinks by degrees to the west, towards the Kronenberg,
+a most picturesque and interesting amphitheatre is seen, consisting
+of basaltic columns. Numbers of them lie in fragments, which are ever
+increased by others falling amongst them with a thundering noise. But
+many columns, from six to nine feet thick and hundreds of feet high,
+still withstand the storms and other influences which seek to destroy
+them. Many stand quite isolated, and being broken in several places,
+lean overhanging against each other in such a way that they threaten
+to fall every moment: but it requires other strength than that of the
+hand of man to hurl such masses from their position. The whole of
+this valley which surrounds the Kronenberg to the east, resembles the
+crumbled wall of a crater, and is grandly picturesque.</p>
+
+<p>On the 9th of May, Copeland and Iversen passed four hours on the top of
+this mountain (2252 feet high), which is not only the highest point of
+the island but of the whole group.</p>
+
+<p>By the 14th of May our base was completely measured; the sledge was
+packed, the stakes made even once more, and at ten p.m. we started on
+another journey. We left the ship accompanied by Capt. Koldewey, who
+with four men helped us to pull for some miles. It was greatly to be
+wished that we might be able to carry our triangle as far as Haystack.
+Three nautical miles from the ship our friends<span class="pagenum" id="Page_496">[496]</span> left us. At six a.m.
+we reached our former resting-place, half-way along the west coast of
+Klein Pendulum, where we were met by our old friends the ptarmigans;
+here we slept the whole of the sunny day and began our march in the
+evening.</p>
+
+<p>Our road lay at first on the smooth undulating fresh-water ice, running
+along the coast-line, our only fear being that of running ourselves
+down from the momentum of the sledge. Between Kuhn Island, Shannon and
+Pendulum Straits the snow lay full of holes, the outer crust being
+hard; but the sledge slides broke through, and it was soft beneath, so
+that the tent-poles pierced it easily at least seven feet and a half.
+At six a.m. on the 16th we were only one nautical mile and a half north
+of Klein Pendulum, and quite exhausted we put up our tent for a rest;
+starting again in the evening, we could take only part of our baggage
+with us, and after marching two nautical miles and a half had to go
+back for the other part. Upon starting it was so foggy that we had to
+direct our course by the compass, though a lift showed us the edge of
+the land ice a few nautical miles from us. This day we marched fifteen
+nautical miles and found ourselves in 74° 55′ N. Lat., exactly south of
+Tellplatte. We here discovered by the Dancer-telescope, to our great
+joy, that all the cairns built were visible, although they were quite
+from fifteen to twenty nautical miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>The exertions of the last few days had so greatly exhausted our
+strength that we could not start again until eight a.m. on the 19th.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we trod the coast, and climbed the mountain to choose the spot
+for our cairn. The ground resembled Cape Philip Broke, which we had
+visited the year before.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_497">[497]</span> Huge blocks of basalt lay around, one resting
+upon these small stones, as if man’s hand had placed it there for a
+purpose. On the highest point of the south-easterly part of one of the
+hills still stood a cairn built the autumn before by Lieut. Payer,
+and this seemed to be the best spot we could find on the Tellplatte.
+Traces of the musk-ox were everywhere to be seen, and soon we saw six
+full-grown animals and two calves. Returning in the evening we found
+Iversen snow-blind.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p4970_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p4970_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">BLOCK OF BASALT.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The next day, the 20th, so violent a south wind blew, accompanied by
+fog, that we could do nothing but erect a depôt; about 250 lbs. of
+provisions and reserve clothing were buried in different places in the
+rock, and stones rolled against them. The coast here forms a small bay
+about half a nautical mile broad. Along the strand were numerous tent
+circles and many other signs, such as bones<span class="pagenum" id="Page_498">[498]</span> of the walrus and seal,
+and heaps of mussel-shells, showing that formerly this had evidently
+been a favourite summer resort of the Esquimaux.</p>
+
+<p>In the tent we refreshed ourselves with two newly killed hares, cooked
+by a fire of willow wood and bear’s fat. Towards the evening, as the
+wind dropped we went to the spot where our cairn was to be built,
+leaving Iversen, whose eyes were worse, behind in the tent; it was
+still too windy, however, to do anything with the theodolite, so we
+built the cairn and ascertained by the barometer the height of the
+hill; this was 672 feet above the surface of the sea. On our return we
+passed through a broad valley to the south of our station, whose rich
+vegetation had attracted a whole herd of musk-oxen, eleven full-grown
+animals and three calves. It was remarkable how carefully, even in
+their hurried flight, they looked after the calves, which, although
+certainly not more than fourteen days old, ran with astonishing speed.</p>
+
+<p>It was morning before we reached the tent; we rested until the evening,
+and on the 21st of May continued our journey. The weather was quiet but
+foggy.</p>
+
+<p>We also found to our relief that the sledge went easily with the whole
+of the baggage. With the exception of an hour in which to make some
+coffee, we marched until ten a.m. of the next day. This was our longest
+march, being thirteen nautical miles.</p>
+
+<p>Here we took an observation for magnetic declination, which gave 44°
+52′ westerly; and fixed the position of the place as 74° 55.2′ N. Lat.
+and 19° 9′ Long. west of Greenwich. In the evening it was 14° Fahr.,
+and when we started at midnight 7°, making the snow hard. Until<span class="pagenum" id="Page_499">[499]</span> six
+a.m. this was good, then the influence of the sun began to be felt, and
+the sledge sank deeper and deeper.</p>
+
+<p>We pitched our tent over against a huge ice-block, and were soon under
+the bed-clothes, but not for long, for the sun shone so powerfully on
+the tent that by one p.m. the temperature was 81° Fahr., whilst in the
+shade the glass stood some degrees below freezing.</p>
+
+<p>We started again at one a.m., and even for the short stretch of a
+mile and a half we had to divide our baggage, some of which had to be
+left behind. Whilst Iversen and the boatswain effected this change,
+we climbed the Ruthner to signal. On the way from the ice-block to
+the shore we saw traces of a sledge, which we rightly attributed to
+Lieutenant Payer, who, not being able to penetrate the Fjord, had to
+return to the ship.</p>
+
+<p>After reading the barometer on the shore we climbed the mountain. In
+the snow were traces of musk-oxen, reindeer, lemmings, foxes, and
+hares; a bear, too, was seen in the distance. The upper part of this
+mountain consists, I believe, of mica-schist, the strata of which falls
+at an inclination of about 30° to the north-west.</p>
+
+<p>Below is rather a rich vegetation, particularly of <i>Andromeda
+tetragona</i>, whilst above, where the stones lie loose, there is no
+trace of it. Here the first flies were evidently enjoying the warmth
+of the stones; the top we found was formed of a steep roof of snow and
+ice, not very extensive, but enough to make it of no use to us. This
+was unfortunate, as all the points of our triangle, such as Tellplatte,
+Pendulum, and Hühnerberg, could<span class="pagenum" id="Page_500">[500]</span> be distinctly seen. Besides these were
+two others erected by Lieutenant Payer, one at Cape Bremen, and one at
+the “black wall,” to the south of our standing point.</p>
+
+<p>The prospect from Ruthner to westward, if only over the interior of
+Kuhn Island, is wonderfully beautiful. The wildly rent mountains,
+with broad ravines and narrow gorges, and the wonderful contrast of
+the granite sandstone, and basaltic rocks against the blinding white
+snow, made a never-to-be-forgotten impression. To the north end of
+the island lay a long, narrow channel, running deep into the land
+to the west; where to, remained an unsolved question. In Ardencaple
+Inlet at 75°, and Gael Hamkes Bay in 74°, was ample room for sledging
+expeditions in the spring and autumn. Our interesting excursion ended
+at three-quarters past six p.m. At seven on the 25th of May we left
+Ruthner, which we were unable to use as a station, for Cape Bremen,
+reaching the shore beneath it by half-past three a.m. It was quite
+clear and evident to us that our sledge journeys would soon have to be
+given up for this year, and therefore it would be impossible to carry
+our measuring as far as Haystack. The furthest we could hope to reach
+was a spot on Hochstetter’s Promontory, in order to connect it with the
+Observatory on Sabine Island; this Copeland and Sengstacke were to do,
+and choose the station from which to signal. Börgen and Iversen were
+to climb Cape Bremen, to heighten the cairn already built, and there
+begin the measurement of the angles. We should then visit Tellplatte
+once more, and leaving all we could behind, hurry on board with the
+instruments.</p>
+
+<p>We trod Hochstetter’s Promontory at a small tongue of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_501">[501]</span> land, behind
+which stretched a rather large bay; here we found, to our astonishment,
+some brown coal, some of which we collected for a fire. We soon came
+upon a family of musk-oxen, which all fled at our approach, except a
+calf, which we caught. We were, however, a long way from the ship, and
+its loud and unceasing bellowing put us in some danger, so we were
+forced to kill it, preserving only the skin and head for the zoological
+collection.</p>
+
+<p>We mounted the most easterly of two hills forming the greatest
+projecting point of the peninsula. The whole summit is composed of
+plates of a dark kind of marble chalk-stone, which answered our purpose
+beautifully, and after four hours’ hard work we had the pleasure of
+seeing a cairn two yards and a half high, and a base of at least two
+yards in diameter. Under its protection we had a short sleep and
+refreshment of water, blackbread, pemmican, and ham, which tasted
+excellent. We then continued our journey, and, after an absence of
+twenty-five hours, reached the tent, where our comrades were sleeping,
+at half-past seven p.m. on the 27th.</p>
+
+<p>About noon on the following day we climbed the mountain for the third
+and last time, and were received by such a violent west wind that it
+was impossible to put up our instruments.</p>
+
+<p>We retraced our steps through the ravine, but what a change! Spring had
+indeed come with might. Where forty-eight hours before not a drink of
+water could be had without a fire, and where twenty-four hours before
+we could hear a low gurgling deep under the snow, were now countless
+rills of crystal water and a foaming, rushing torrent. But we were
+indeed astonished upon reaching<span class="pagenum" id="Page_502">[502]</span> the shore to find our tent, which we
+had left on a gravelly hillock, standing on a peninsula in the midst of
+a broad sea. Yes, the Arctic summer comes overnight! how else would it
+be possible, in the short space of three months, for the earth to bring
+forth flowers, and for the fruit to ripen?</p>
+
+<p>At four a.m. on the 4th of June we prepared to carry out our plan of
+taking the sledge to Hochstetter’s Promontory, but it was a colossal
+work; at every step both ourselves and the sledge broke through,
+and some inches of water stood on the ice, so that our boots were
+soon full. We now determined to leave everything behind except the
+instruments, and, keeping close to the coast, reach the ship as soon as
+possible.</p>
+
+<p>On our way we found the first blooming plant, a <i>Saxifraga
+oppositifolia</i>. Copeland and Iversen went hunting, and killed two
+musk-oxen; upon reaching the top we were just in time to take the sun’s
+altitude; it then clouded over, and began to snow. Deep in Ardencaple
+Inlet we discovered a glacier reaching down to the sea, from which, no
+doubt, proceeded the greater portion of the icebergs with which this
+Fjord is filled.</p>
+
+<p>In Ardencaple Inlet and north of Kuhn Island so much water had
+collected on the ice that the mountains were reflected in it; we might
+therefore make up our minds to wade from thirteen to fourteen hours
+through water at 32°.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven p.m. we retraced our steps, with the intention of visiting
+the western hill, which we conjectured to be the beds <i>in situ</i> of
+the brown coal which lay in such quantities on the shore; this was so
+good that it lit with a lucifer-match. By noon we had returned to the
+tent,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_503">[503]</span> and after sleeping twenty-four hours began our return march to
+Cape Bremen, which we reached on the morning of the 10th.</p>
+
+<p>By the telescope we inspected the south coast of Bastian’s Bay, and
+found it almost impossible for us to get along with the sledge, which
+we therefore decided upon leaving behind, taking with us on our backs
+nothing but the instruments, the tent, and a few other things. Three
+great difficulties we should have to surmount—the passage of Bastian’s
+Bay, the Fligely Fjord, and Clavering Straits; the whole distance we
+hoped to do in four marches at the utmost.</p>
+
+<p>After a short sleep we began our march on the 10th of June, at
+midnight, each with a weight of from 40 lb. to 50 lb. on his back.</p>
+
+<p>We first tried to cross the bay direct, but this we found impossible
+from the depth of water and snow upon the ice. We therefore went along
+the coast to the narrowest part, which we crossed in two hours, and at
+ten p.m. on the 11th of June we began our second day’s journey; but we
+seemed to have over-estimated our strength, and could scarcely hope
+to reach the ship by the time we had hoped; we had, therefore, to be
+careful of our provisions, which had fallen very low. Fortunately for
+us, we fell in with a herd of fifteen musk-oxen and four calves; they
+were very shy and restless, which we could account for afterwards, as
+Lieutenant Payer had already met them and killed two. We fired four
+shots, and had the satisfaction of bringing down one young bull.</p>
+
+<p>We soon had a bright fire of willow branches, and some Andromeda made
+us an excellent soup, which, with the liver and heart of the animal,
+afforded us a refreshing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_504">[504]</span> meal. This day we saw a number of sea-gulls,
+and caught an ermine, already in its summer dress, which we took on
+board. The exertions of the previous days, our constantly wet feet and
+boots, were beginning to tell upon us. The feet began to swell, and
+Sengstacke and the boatswain suffered much. At eleven p.m., on the
+12th, we began our third day’s march, and soon reached the summit of
+the foreland, the height of which we found to be 994 feet. Vegetation
+was here rather plentiful, the willow, the dwarf birch, and a shrub
+somewhat resembling the pine, though not belonging to this group. From
+here we descended quickly to the shore, and came upon a layer of coal
+clay about twelve yards thick, containing a number of fossils, which
+were unfortunately lost.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5040_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5040_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">FOSSIL FROM KUHN ISLAND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>As we descended the slope to the coast, we saw walking along the shore
+a she-bear, and two cubs, the size of a poodle, playing together, the
+mother taking no notice of them whatever. No sooner did the young ones
+perceive the hunter than they galloped towards their mother, who in two
+strides turned and stood by them, with such rage expressed in all her
+actions, that we knew we must be careful; finding, however, that they
+were unhurt, she seemed to think only of bringing them to a place of
+safety.</p>
+
+<p>It was eleven p.m. on the 13th of June when we prepared ourselves for
+the most difficult and critical part of our journey, the passage of
+the Fligely Fjord. We kept on the northern side of the straits, until
+we came to the narrowest part, according to Payer’s chart, opposite a
+tongue of land. The water was here from 111 feet to 125<span class="pagenum" id="Page_505">[505]</span> feet deep,
+covered with a thin coating of ice, which broke at every step.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately, just at the moment when we were going to leave our
+instruments behind, we came upon a firm bank of snow, where we rested
+awhile, and warmed our feet in our hands, and wrung out our stockings,
+after which we got on better, and, had our provisions been somewhat
+more plentiful, we should have felt quite comfortable; but they only
+consisted of biscuit-dust, of which we had two table-spoonfuls at each
+meal, with some coffee and meat.</p>
+
+<p>At two a.m. on the 15th we started once more. The road was good, but
+the diminution of our strength was more and more perceptible. Every
+little while we had to rest. We were now passing through a great
+valley in which were some considerable streams to ford. Soon we came
+to a broad, deep river, with a strong current. After several attempts,
+we at last pitched upon a spot in which, sinking up to the waist, we
+succeeded in crossing.</p>
+
+<p>It now seemed necessary to leave our things behind. Sengstacke was
+not well, and we were not much better, and, as we did not wish to get
+really ill by remaining in our wet things, we thought it better to
+hurry on to the ship.</p>
+
+<p>At eight p.m. on the 15th all was ready for starting, when a snow-storm
+set in, and we began to think of murdering some of the Boatswain birds
+(<i>Lestris parasitica</i>) which were flying about us, when Iversen
+descried a fine reindeer, and a luck shot brought it to the ground.</p>
+
+<p>At eight a.m. on the 16th we started for our last march; the snow in
+Clavering Straits, at which we had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_506">[506]</span> secretly quailed, we found firmer
+than we expected, so that we soon came to the island, and, after
+eighteen hours’ march, trod the deck of our good Germania at two a.m.
+on the 17th of June.</p>
+
+<p>The hearty welcome we received from Captain Koldewey, Dr. Pansch, and
+Lieutenant Payer greatly enhanced the pleasure of our return. Some days
+later Sengstacke fetched the instruments which we had left behind.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_507">[507]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.<br>
+<span class="subhed">EXCURSIONS TO SABINE AND CLAVERING ISLANDS, TO EXAMINE REMAINS OF THE
+ESQUIMAUX SETTLEMENTS.<a id="FNanchor_87" href="#Footnote_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Hut-ruins and graves on Sabine Island.—Bone
+implements.—Previous condition of these huts and
+their inhabitants.—Tent-circles.—Sole traces of
+the Expedition of Sabine and Clavering.—Esquimaux
+remains on Klein Pendulum.—Ethnology of Shannon.—Boat
+journey to Clavering Island.—Clavering’s statement
+regarding the Esquimaux.—Hut-ruins and graves by Cape
+Mary.—Vegetation.—Misadventure at night.—Further progress
+hindered by the ice. Journey to Clavering’s Esquimaux
+hamlet.—Luxuriant vegetation.—Examination of deserted
+settlements.—Probable fate of the original inhabitants.—Return
+to boat, and so to ship.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>As everywhere else, so also in the Arctic regions, the question of the
+existence of a population, its civilization, manner of life, habits and
+customs, must be as full of general interest as it is of the greatest
+importance to science. It may, therefore, be believed that we were all
+on the look-out for the natives.</p>
+
+<p>Our eyes and thoughts, which had not yet accustomed themselves to a
+perfectly uninhabited country, had on our approach to Greenland been
+directed to the discovery of some signs of human life—a tent, or any
+dark moving spot; but in vain—nothing broke the brown uniformity of
+the lifeless landscape before us.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_508">[508]</span></p>
+
+<p>On Captain Koldewey’s return from his first visit on shore, he reported
+that there were Esquimaux huts in the neighbourhood, and brought a
+bleached, partially moss-grown, human jaw-bone. In the morning, with
+the help of Peter Ellinger and Wilhelm Mieders, I explored the remains
+of an Esquimaux settlement on the afterwards named “Observatory
+Peninsula.”</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5080_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5080_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">RUINED ESQUIMAUX HUTS AND TENT-RINGS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>On the shore facing the south-west we discovered a long row of graves,
+heaps of stone so evidently built by the hand of man that they must
+at once strike the eye; besides these were the upper parts of four
+well-preserved<span class="pagenum" id="Page_509">[509]</span> earth-huts belonging to the natives. These were
+remarkable, even in the distance, by a small crater edged with a circle
+of stones, the walls of which, together with the whole surroundings,
+were covered with thick green grass and moss. Upon coming nearer,
+square open holes were to be seen half in the earth, built over with
+strong stone walls from which a narrow underground passage led into the
+open air.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5090_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5090_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">LONGITUDINAL SECTION OF AN ESQUIMAUX HUT.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The huts seemed to be mostly rectangular, some, however, had the
+corners rounded. The size differed: the length was from three to three
+yards and a half, the breadth two, and the height about one. The walls
+were most artistically raised with middling-sized stones which lay near
+at hand, the interstices in which grass and weeds now thrived were
+originally filled with moss and turf.</p>
+
+<p>Within the walls were here and there small niches, we also found a
+larger one in one of the back corners. Besides which between the stones
+were the remains of wooden pegs, which had no doubt served for hanging
+up vessels. The floors of the huts seemed composed of earth and stones,
+and were partly covered with thick close sward. Ice lay in some places,
+and the earth was frozen on the surface.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_510">[510]</span></p>
+
+<p>At the end of the hut facing the sea (south) was a square opening in
+the floor, surrounded with stones about a foot and a half in length
+and breadth, and from half a yard to three-quarters deep; this was
+the beginning of a passage running horizontally nearly parallel with
+the front wall of the hut. This passage was therefore below the level
+of the floor, and was from three to three yards and a half in length,
+opening on to the sloping shore. The walls were built of suitably sized
+stones, also the ceiling, in which for better support long bones and
+bits of drift-wood were found. The whole of this, too, was covered
+with earth and sward. Of a closing door nothing was seen, and of a
+roof there was now no trace. Far and near around the huts, without any
+particular regularity, were a number of small holes or cavities, of
+from a half to a yard in diameter, and not much deeper. They may have
+been used for keeping bacon, meat, and so on, for in some were bones
+of different animals, and others were covered with heavy stones. In
+a wide circle on the green grass lay bleached bones, the remains of
+their meals, mostly belonging to seals and walruses, as well as bear,
+reindeer, hare, and narwhal.</p>
+
+<p>After securing some relics of this “village” and its huts, we decided
+upon digging in the huts themselves. With much trouble we succeeded
+in raising the partly frozen layer of earth, and laid bare the real
+flooring. This was composed partly of the stony earth and partly of
+artistically laid flat stones. A layer of these were found in the back
+corners of about half a yard broad, and ere long the conjecture that
+this had been their fire-hearth, was confirmed by our finding in one of
+the huts a firm mass of carbonized wood, moss, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_511">[511]</span> fat. We discovered
+little of any consequence. Isolated pieces of bones, reindeer horns,
+and walrus’ teeth we found, full of holes bored close together, as
+Scoresby has already described. This arrangement supplies in the
+quickest and surest manner the want of a broom, and seemed to have been
+cleverly filled in with splinters of flint stone. The holes are the
+size of a goose-quill, or perhaps smaller, but those near together are
+equal in size. The bottom (if they do not go quite through) is rounded
+off, and the sides have grooves running horizontally round them. On
+other pieces of bone or wood we observed notches, which were certainly
+cut by stone knives. Completed articles of any kind, we found but few:
+only such as a harpoon-point and a kind of chisel. We remained in the
+dark only as to the kind of roof of these most lamentable of all human
+dwellings, and that, from the description of others, we could imagine
+to have been a flat covering composed of wood, stones, and earth.</p>
+
+<p>If any one wishes to realize the size of such a hut, let him imagine
+ten men sitting on the bare floor and five leaning against each side
+wall; thus quite filling the room. Their stretched out feet would
+touch each other, and allowing for the present shrinkage of the walls,
+the flat roof could have been but little more than from one-half to
+three-quarters of a yard above the head; so that on their knees they
+might have moved about comfortably, but in an upright position, never.</p>
+
+<p>In this wretched amount of room a whole family, on an average five
+or six persons, had to live together for at least seven long winter
+months. One must bear in mind their fur clothing, also that this was
+their sitting, sleeping, and eating room, their kitchen, larder,
+nursery, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_512">[512]</span> so on. It must, moreover, be remembered that there was no
+opening in the walls of any kind, and that neither for air or light was
+there a window in the roof (which such circumstances might warrant, and
+which is the case with some Esquimaux tribes). The only opening leading
+to the dwellings from the outer world, is the before-mentioned small
+square hole in the floor leading to the narrow underground tunnel.
+Through this they went in and out, and through this the air was renewed.</p>
+
+<p>The train-oil lamp for lighting and cooking purposes is the only
+compensation for the absence of a stove. And yet one can imagine how
+with that and the inhabitants together in this confined space, the
+temperature may be kept at a considerable height, if the walls are only
+thick and tight, and the wind unable to blow in.</p>
+
+<p>These huts, therefore, do not stand on the earth as is mostly the
+case in West Greenland, but are half underground, and with their
+grass-covered roofs greatly resemble mole-heaps on a garden-bed.</p>
+
+<p>About thirty paces from the stony, gently sloping shore, looking south,
+were ten graves, five of which were in good preservation. They were
+from ten to sixteen feet above the level of the sea, and consisted of
+a sort of box, constructed of suitable stones mostly above the surface
+of the earth. The interior was one yard and a half long and two-thirds
+broad, the height of the walls about half a yard. On one of the graves,
+which was still undisturbed, the covering was composed of long flat
+stones laid across, such as are easily found in the neighbourhood. This
+grave we at once examined. The bottom of it, which was nearly upon the
+same level as the outer earth, was covered with a quantity of dried
+willow leaves, which in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_513">[513]</span> the course of years must have been blown in
+through the cracks of the walls. The bottom itself consisted of a layer
+of earth and sand, on which lay some stones probably fallen from the
+roof.</p>
+
+<p>A human skeleton, or, indeed, any other object, we did not at first
+see, but soon found the somewhat decayed ends of bones, evidently
+human. We now dug carefully in the hard earth, and came upon a number
+of bones belonging to a human skeleton. It was, however, quite
+impossible, in spite of our care, to get it perfect; and besides
+the small bones of the feet and hands, the skull was unfortunately
+missing. The position of the bones, particularly those of the limbs,
+was strikingly irregular; but from that of the ribs and vertebræ we
+could safely conclude that the dead, when first buried, lay either
+in a recumbent or an upright posture, with the face to the south,
+overlooking the water. If from the first the corpse had not been
+disturbed by foxes, &amp;c., I might, from the position of the arm and
+leg-bones, have believed that it was placed upright, although this was
+not in unison with the lengthened form of the grave.</p>
+
+<p>The bones were, on the whole, in good preservation, and pretty heavy.
+Their condition made the absence of the skull more conspicuous, and
+gave us reason to suppose that it had either been unearthed by some
+animal, or that the English, under Clavering, had taken it with them
+forty-six years before. Anything in the shape of weapons, or vessels,
+buried with the corpse, we did not find.</p>
+
+<p>Besides these graves, we were also struck the first few days by the
+before-mentioned “Tent-rings.” These rough stones are ranged in a
+circle of about three yards in diameter, and are more or less firmly
+imbedded in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_514">[514]</span> earth’s surface. The circle has an opening facing the
+water, and is mostly divided into two parts by a row of stones across.</p>
+
+<p>As regards the meaning of these “Tent-rings,” there can, even with
+our superficial knowledge of Esquimaux life, be no doubt. They are
+the stones which once fastened down the tent raised on that spot, and
+which, on its removal, were left in the same place. The back part must
+have been the general sleeping apartment, and that near the entrance
+the place for the lamp-stand.</p>
+
+<p>As these tents must to a certain extent agree with those used in West
+Greenland, we give the figure and description as found in Egede’s
+work:—</p>
+
+<p>“They live the whole of the summer in their summer dwellings, which are
+nothing more than tents raised in the following manner:—they set up
+some poles, or laths, binding them together at the top and roofing with
+a double covering, the interior being hung with seal or reindeer skin,
+with the hair inside; the outside, on the contrary, of sealskin from
+which the hair has been taken, and then smeared with fat to prevent
+the rain or water penetrating. In the inner part of the tent they have
+a sleeping frame made of planks, on which they all lie, and on which
+they place their lamp for cooking. At the entrance, or door of the
+tent, is a curtain made from the intestines of the seal, through which
+the daylight comes. Every father of a family has such a tent for his
+people.”</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5142_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5142_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_515"><i>Page 515.</i></a></p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The remaining traces of the Esquimaux to be found on the island at the
+present day, are the different “Provision-holes,” or “<i>caches</i>,”
+lying near the shore and high up in the mountains. These are holes of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_515">[515]</span>different sizes roughly built with stones, either on the flat earth
+or against a rock or large stone, and now more or less in ruins. For
+instance, when the Esquimaux obtain any booty so far from their tents
+or huts that they cannot easily bring it home, they cover the remains
+with stones, that the foxes may not steal it before they return.</p>
+
+<p>Some isolated pieces of Esquimaux vessels and weapons we eventually
+found in different places on the open fields, and added them to the
+ethnological collection. But besides the traces of the former native
+inhabitants, there were other traces of humanity, which we had eagerly
+searched after from the first, though apparently without success in
+this deserted land. To us any indication whatever of the visit paid
+forty-six years before, by our predecessors of the English Expedition
+under Sabine and Clavering, was interesting. The astronomers were
+particularly anxious, according to the terms of our Instructions, to
+discover the spot on which Sabine erected his Observatory. But in
+vain did we search in every likely place. The task was all the more
+difficult, as we knew that Sabine had brought a wooden Observatory
+out with him; and not until our return, after searching the original
+account near the journey, did we find that the building had stood near
+the first-described Esquimaux huts.</p>
+
+<p>As regards the Esquimaux traces on Klein Pendulum, directly after
+our arrival we discovered three winter huts; they lay close to our
+anchorage, on the gently sloping plain from the foot of the Stufenberg
+to the shore.</p>
+
+<p>As the astronomers had raised their tents on the land,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_516">[516]</span> Dr. Pansch
+determined to make an effort to go there, although the inflamed state
+of his wounds scarcely allowed of it.</p>
+
+<p>These huts were in much the same condition as those on Sabine Island,
+and their whole construction and position were perfectly similar. The
+walls only seemed a little higher, and the corners more rounded off.
+In two the “tossut” or entrance tunnel was in good preservation. We
+also found some tent-rings, but no graves. At Cape Desbrowe, however, a
+little farther off, were some from which we took a well-preserved skull.</p>
+
+<p>We found no winter huts on Cape Philip Broke, although this must have
+been the only point of the island on which they could have stood. On
+the other hand tent-rings and <i>caches</i> were so crowded on the
+projecting-land point that we jokingly suggested that the Esquimaux
+must have held their chief markets here. The tent-rings did not merely
+lie near each other, but in many cases over-lapped one another,
+distinctly showing that they must be of different ages; they do not
+either necessarily show that one and the same family always returned to
+the same spot every year; and from these traces of an ever-changing and
+most likely short summer sojourn, it is likewise impossible to attempt
+to decide upon the number of the former inhabitants, as some writers
+have done. These are, however, excusable mistakes of those who have
+either not seen for themselves, or have only cursorily noticed these
+things.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5161_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5161_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_516"><i>Page 516.</i></a></p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>It was understood that before leaving Pendulum Island we should seek
+out the spot where, forty-seven years before, Clavering met the
+natives. For his account of the meeting, I refer the reader to his own
+narrative.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_517">[517]</span></p>
+
+<p>The fitting time seemed now to have come, and after several inspections
+of the ice from the neighbouring mountains, we found that it was
+possible, in the direction of Gael Hamkes Bay, to advance with a boat
+to within a short distance of our goal.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5170_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5170_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">PORTIONS OF ESQUIMAUX IMPLEMENTS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>The large boat was therefore fitted up with provisions for eight days,
+and a tent: besides Captain Koldewey and the Doctor, were Lieutenant
+Payer, Mr. Tramnitz, Peter Iversen, Theodore Klentzer, and George
+Herzberg.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th of July, at three p.m., we started with fine weather;
+but owing to a calm were confined to rowing under the dusky cliffs
+of Walrus Island, where the Burgomaster-gull<span class="pagenum" id="Page_518">[518]</span> wakes the echoes with
+its everlasting scream, and the black guillemot (<i>Uria grylle</i>)
+pipes gently as it swims; along went the boat, eventually taking a
+south-westerly direction towards Flache Bay.</p>
+
+<p>The road was open; only here and there floated large or small
+ice-floes. We passed the glaciered snow slopes of Cape Wynn, and by
+half-past eight reached the very flat bay about a fathom deep, which
+we entered. The bottom was composed of soft mud, produced by the
+infalling of a considerable gutter or drain. The water was of elevated
+temperature (we found it 39°), whilst without the thermometer had
+previously shown only 34°. Besides some solitary burgomaster gulls,
+which seemed to have built their nests in the rocks, and a few eider
+ducks, we saw a bear in the distance. A calm still reigned, so that it
+was ten o’clock before we reached the steep cliffs seen from Sabine
+Island; as a little to the north of these lay a small flat promontory
+and a good anchorage, we determined to pass the night here, hoping
+for a better wind and greater speed the next morning. Vegetation
+was vigorous, and that not only in damp places. A few plants of
+<i>Cerastium alpinum</i> covered spots of a square-foot in size. Here
+we started a hare, but unfortunately could not kill her.</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th we again visited the southern projection of the promontory
+where some Esquimaux had lived; but we found nothing but tent-rings,
+and the earth was covered with bleaching bones of animals; here we
+were struck with the large quantity of marine plants washed up by the
+ice and tide, along the bank, or in the hollows; it was mostly the
+large-leaved <i>Laminaria</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime a light sou’-wester had got up, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_519">[519]</span> we returned
+hurriedly to the boat and rowed along the coast southward. Later on we
+thought it advisable to put up our sail, and with the help of the oars
+to cross to the other side, where Lieutenant Payer landed, bent on a
+geological expedition along the shore.</p>
+
+<p>Ice-blocks were now more numerous, though they did not hinder our
+progress. Here we saw a curious sight; a whole flock of eider ducks in
+a row upon the water, fishing and cleaning themselves; they were nearly
+all drakes, but one or two had brown plumage. Similar flocks of eider
+drakes have been often noticed. It is supposed that they take flight
+together in a northerly direction, as later in the year they are not
+seen.</p>
+
+<p>By noon we reached Cape Borlase Warren in bright sunshine, and our
+excursions began. This cape forms a slight ridge, rising by degrees
+to the high mountains of the interior; the distant slopes to the
+east were sparingly covered with grass, whilst on the southern bank,
+between and under the rocks, grew the thickest and most vigorous grass.
+Here was now a new real sea-shore plant, the thick-leaved star-wort,
+<i>Helianthus peploides</i>, reminding us vividly of our German downs.
+Like the <i>Cochlearia</i>, however, it did not grow exactly on the
+shore, but higher up on the bank. Our zoological collection was also
+increased by a long-tailed duck (<i>Harelda glacialis</i>), shot by Mr.
+Tramnitz; there were also numerous relics of the natives, tent-rings,
+and some ruined graves. Upon closer inspection we found two more winter
+huts and some undisturbed graves; amongst which we for the first time
+came upon one divided by a low partition wall into two parts, from both
+of which we took the well-preserved skull of a seven-year old child,
+and some bones; we also<span class="pagenum" id="Page_520">[520]</span> found amongst the rocks the half of a Kajak
+oar quite bleached.</p>
+
+<p>About three o’clock we continued our way; Dr. Pansch, Lieutenant Payer,
+and P. Ellinger going along the shore, and the rest in the boat to
+Gael Hamkes Bay. For the first time the bank showed a fine sandy open
+shore, and at the tide mark lay a number of dried marine plants. About
+ten or twenty steps from this broad sandy shore, was a beautiful green
+band of meadow-land, the <i>Pedicularis hirsuta</i> being particularly
+luxuriant.</p>
+
+<p>Marching around several bays, we halted on a point of rock projecting
+far into the sea, to wait for the boats. We then steered westwards, the
+steep mountains of Clavering Island coming nearer and nearer. Here we
+saw a young reindeer peeping from behind a hillock, not far from the
+shore.</p>
+
+<p>The number of ice-floes increased considerably, and though not exactly
+in our way, we were obliged to go out of our course to avoid them.
+Towards the middle of the bay the ice became denser, frequently
+assuming fantastical forms.</p>
+
+<p>The further we advanced, the more unlikely it seemed that we could
+reach Clavering Island with the boat; but by keeping along the bank
+we constantly came upon open channels; and thus about evening time,
+reached a low promontory opposite Cape Mary, the most easterly point
+of Clavering Island. The straits, to our great joy, were almost free
+from ice; as there was a calm, the steep mountains rose from a mirrored
+surface, over which occasionally sped a diver or a pair of ducks. It
+was the most perfect summer picture of a beautiful northern Fjord seen
+for the first time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_521">[521]</span></p>
+
+<p>We now made straight for Cape Mary, hoping to reach it soon, as the
+water was free from ice; but the distance was greater than we supposed,
+and we were still far from land, when we were surrounded by numerous
+ice-floes, and soon we were in a perfect labyrinth, through which
+we laboriously made our way. Somewhat more to the south-west lay a
+suitable spot for our encampment; a large green plain, promising both
+protection and a supply of fresh water. Indeed, so thick and luxuriant
+was the grass, that we conjectured it must formerly have been an
+Esquimaux settlement, and we were not wrong.</p>
+
+<p>We landed at eleven p.m. We found some very old winter huts, which must
+have been long since forsaken; they were so decayed and overgrown, that
+we could scarcely recognize them, only here and there stood a piece
+of wall. Thick moss covered the ground and grew in the entrance, the
+tender star-wort, long small blossoming saxifrages, and fine-haired
+grasses and sedges sprouted in the walls. Finely developed blossoms
+of the <i>Poa</i>, and other species, were also there, and the
+yellow-headed dandelion <i>(Taraxacum phymatocarpum</i>, Vahl). Farther
+on, where the earth was drier, the cinquefoil flourished in large
+bushes, as well as the fresh sprays of the <i>Oxyria</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We were also delighted by quite a new plant, the slender rich-leaved
+<i>Epilobium latifolium</i> (L.), with large lovely red flowers; also
+the yellow-head of the <i>Arnica alpina</i> (Murr.); and in some
+places we collected fine samples of the <i>Sedum rhodiola</i>; a
+bell-flower (<i>Campanula uniflora</i>, L.) was unfolding its first
+dark blue bells; thus all the elements of a lovely bouquet were
+present. White was represented by the <i>Dryas</i>, which here, as
+on Sabine Island, bore but few blossoms, though much finer ones.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_522">[522]</span> Of
+other plants may also be mentioned, <i>Polygonum viviparum</i> (L.),
+<i>Wahlbergella apetala</i> (Fries.), <i>Oxyria</i>, <i>Taraxacum</i>,
+<i>Potentilla</i>, and <i>Saxifraga</i>. It was now one o’clock, and
+we retired to rest. Dr. Pansch and Captain Koldewey made the boat
+their couch, but it was an uneasy one; for as the water sank, it left
+it leaning on one side on a rock, so that they were rolling down upon
+each other; scarcely had they again fallen asleep in this uncomfortable
+position, when, with a jerk, the boat fell from the rock, and the whole
+concern, men, chests, and boxes lay in the water, from which we with
+difficulty rescued them.</p>
+
+<p>The south coast of the island was completely beset with ice, partly
+drifting, and partly firm, and seemingly stretching to the southern
+shore and Jackson Island. To advance further with the boat was
+absolutely impossible, and our hopes of landing at the Esquimaux
+village, making a rich ethnological collection, and then exploring the
+land to the west were destroyed: and we were at least five German miles
+from our destination.</p>
+
+<p>Koldewey then made some astronomical observations, took the necessary
+steps for observing the tide, and about half-past ten we continued our
+journey; with difficulty we sprang from stone to stone, or sought a
+path more inland. The skeleton of a reindeer attracted our attention;
+the skull was still fast to the fore parts of the body, while the hind
+part lay bleaching at a short distance, and farther on lay the leg
+bones still hanging together.</p>
+
+<p>In opposition to this picture of death, our eyes were almost
+immediately afterwards cheered by blooming life as we continued our
+way at the feet of the steep mountain chain. Growing among the loose
+pebbles and in the rocky crevices was the beautiful <i>Polemonium<span class="pagenum" id="Page_523">[523]</span>
+humile</i> (Willd.). Such blossoming splendour we had not yet seen in
+Greenland, and for the moment forgot that we were in the far North; we
+had already known the plant in Germaniaberg and Klein Pendulum, but
+there it was nothing to this luxuriance! The vigorous pinnate leaves
+were more than half a foot long, the blossom the bulk of a good-sized
+apple, and on this the flowers were crowded of the clearest and most
+lovely blue, and at some considerable distance we could smell the
+aromatic perfume of its leaves.</p>
+
+<p>The south-easterly projection of the Cape rose in steep low cliffs
+sheer from the water, so that we were forced to climb and go along
+the ridge. Here was plentiful vegetation, but nothing new. We also
+came upon some tent-rings and some rectangular graves, most carefully
+built, which had evidently never been opened; indeed, these traces
+of the natives must have been very ancient. We should have liked to
+open the graves, and many sitting at home in a warm room may think
+it inexcusable that we did not do so; but our head-quarters were our
+end and aim, and the sky warned us not to delay our march. It was
+possible that we might have both rain and fog, neither of which would
+conduce to the success of our enterprise, nor to the march over these
+unknown mountains; so we hurried on down the hills to the shore. Here
+we had a fine glimpse of the mainland with its blue heights, though
+far more imposing were the steep mountains of Jordan Hill Island which
+rose before us. A small rocky point projecting into the water was
+interesting from the statue-like form which the basalt had assumed. The
+inaccessible heads of the most isolated columns offered a favourable
+breeding spot for many<span class="pagenum" id="Page_524">[524]</span> pairs of gulls; from which we concluded that
+the water here must keep longer free from ice.</p>
+
+<p>Near these rocks we again met with the <i>Helianthus peploides</i>; it
+was in full bloom, and covered a considerable spot with uninterrupted
+green. Now and again, for an instant, we could see the high tops
+soaring perpendicularly above us through the clouds of fog there, the
+whole heavens and the landscape thickly veiled, and at last a fine rain
+began to fall. Vegetation gained both in height and extent, and when
+the fog rose for a moment we could see all the soft slopes for more
+than 300 yards high distinctly green. In plants, besides fine bushes of
+bilberry and Andromeda, and the frequently recurring arnica was a new
+Composite, the <i>Erigeron eriocephalus</i> (Vahl).</p>
+
+<p>Worth noticing here was the discovery of a piece of whalebone,
+and that most of the plants of the common saxifrage (<i>Saxifraga
+oppositifolia</i>) bore light flesh-coloured blossoms. Several large
+and small pieces of drift-wood too were seen.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, amid continued fine rain, we reached the most southerly
+promontory; and upon climbing to the heights, we saw a bay cutting
+deep into the land, and by the help of glasses could plainly descry in
+the midst of a large green plain some dark spots, which were evidently
+Clavering’s Esquimaux settlement.</p>
+
+<p>We opened two of the few graves strewn about: they, too, were long and
+quadrangular. Here we could distinctly see that the roof-stone, being
+too short, had been supported lengthwise and across with pieces of
+drift-wood. There was nowhere the slightest trace of either bones or
+tools.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_525">[525]</span></p>
+
+<p>We saw a herd of about fifteen stately reindeer grazing at a little
+distance from us, but at our approach they drew quietly off to the
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Except some hares sitting in the distance, and scarcely to be
+distinguished from white stones, we saw one solitary ptarmigan in its
+summer plumage. We now drew very near to the spot where, forty-seven
+years before, a small band of natives led a peaceful and contented life.</p>
+
+<p>Now we had reached the first hut: there was but an empty room, on
+the floor of which grew high moss and grass; we hurried on to the
+next,—the same sight; a third lay a little on one side; here, too, the
+same comfortless picture of desertion.</p>
+
+<p>With our minds somewhat disabused we laid down our baggage, and
+examined them more closely. As we had always previously found
+them, these huts lay in the neighbourhood of the water. The two
+best-preserved were more to the east, and a little farther on were
+two more, seemingly older. These all had the same build, the same
+position, and the same size, as those on Sabine and Pendulum Island.
+There were also some well preserved tent-rings. The round holes
+(Provision-magazines), too, were not wanting; what struck us most,
+however, was the great number of earth-holes round about the huts: they
+seemed to be the last signs of the oldest buildings, “and we could
+distinctly trace the different stages of destruction. In some might
+still be seen the sharp four-cornered deep hole with the open entrance
+tunnel, but the stone walls were quite wanting. From this we concluded
+that the Esquimaux, when their huts were dilapidated, or from any other
+cause no longer suited them, built fresh ones, using the old stones.
+How else could the walls of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_526">[526]</span> the old huts have entirely disappeared? To
+take these heavy stones from the hard earth was a troublesome task; and
+the only object worth their while would be for making graves; but as
+there were none about here, they could not enter into the question. The
+result of all this in our minds was, that long before Clavering’s visit
+only a few huts, perhaps three or four, were inhabited; and that on
+this spot, at least, there could be no question of the slow dying-out
+of a once numerous population.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5260_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5260_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">RUINED ESQUIMAUX HUTS ON SABINE ISLAND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>With improvised tools we then set to work on the floors of the two
+newest huts which in Clavering’s time<span class="pagenum" id="Page_527">[527]</span> were inhabited. We soon found
+that the roofs had sunk to the ground. That was shown by a strong lath
+hanging slanting from the wall on the inside, so that the earth and the
+growing plants we had removed was not really the floor, but had once
+formed the roof. We dug deeper in the earth, but found nothing. Here,
+too, large bones had been let into the walls, and in a large side-niche
+lay the perfect skull of a young narwhal; in the second hut, still less
+than this was found. So thinking we had done our duty, and judging by
+the height of the water that it must be near midnight, and rain and
+fog seeming to increase, we prepared to return. We took the same route
+back, only sorry that we had not seen this interesting spot in clearer
+weather.</p>
+
+<p>At the large stream we came upon some reindeer, two stately old ones
+and one young one. With curious looks they advanced fearlessly to
+within ten paces of us. Completely wet through we hurried on, the
+strong ebb reminding us of the past night’s adventure in the boat, and
+showing us that it was about three o’clock.</p>
+
+<p>Living in this continuous, almost uniform daylight, unfettered by any
+regular partition of daily work, simply following up one object, has a
+strange effect upon one; something can certainly be accomplished by its
+means, but to go on for long in such a life, even if one’s health kept
+good, would be impossible.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast we lay down to rest, but as the rain had left off we
+preferred the dry grass to the tent. Upon awaking, we went to inspect
+the neighbouring graves. We opened them all, and were rewarded by
+finding a number of fine skulls and other bones. Interesting to us was
+a small figure carved out of wood lying in a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_528">[528]</span> child’s grave. So that
+these human figures, found also by Graah, in South-East Greenland, are
+not idols, but merely children’s toys.</p>
+
+<p>Thus the great object of this excursion had been accomplished, and we
+determined to return. Stiff with cold (it was 29.75° Fahr.) we arrived
+on board at half-past seven on the morning of the 18th of July, to the
+great astonishment of our pilot, who had not expected us so soon.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_529">[529]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XV.<br>
+<span class="subhed">THE GERMANIA STEAMS NORTHWARDS. 22ND TO 31ST JULY.<a id="FNanchor_88" href="#Footnote_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Voyage of the Germania towards the North.—Ascent of the
+highest points of Klein Pendulum.—Damage to the boilers of
+the Germania.—The so-called open Polar Sea.—Attainment
+of 75° 29′ N.L.—Shannon.—Cape Börgen.—Solid barrier
+of ice northwards.—Abandonment of the attempt to push
+northwards.—Course to the south.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The scientific work on Sabine Island and its neighbourhood might now
+be considered finished. The ship was quite ready to sail; the latest
+observations, as taken from the Germaniaberg, with regard to the ice
+were favourable, there being much open water, and it therefore seemed
+to be a suitable time for pushing on to the north. Thus, on the 22nd of
+July, at nine a.m., we left the harbour which had been our home for ten
+months, in high spirits, with waving flags, and the loud hurrahs of the
+whole party. Dr. Pansch, Peter Iversen, and Peter Ellinger, remained
+behind to explore some Esquimaux graves, and collect some skeletons:
+they came on board later in the afternoon. Our course was taken in the
+direction of Klein Pendulum, as the astronomers had some important work
+to finish relating to the geodetical measuring. We anchored at eleven
+a.m.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_530">[530]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Captain, Dr. Börgen, and Lieutenant Payer, climbed to the highest
+point of the island. Unfortunately, a fog rose from the north, thus
+debarring all prospect. The Tellplatte, 650 feet high, was soon
+covered; one thing we were just able to perceive, namely, that to the
+east of Cape Philip Broke there was much open water. The fog continued
+to roll southwards, and upon returning on board at three a.m. on the
+23rd, Pendulum Island was invisible, we therefore lay at anchor the
+whole day. Dr. Pansch and Dr. Copeland employed the time in exploring
+the Esquimaux huts, and were well rewarded for their trouble.</p>
+
+<p>The Flora could only be investigated near the huts. There was
+nothing remarkable to be found. As in the spring, there were the
+luxuriant <i>Polemonium humile</i> (Willd.), and the yellow crowfoot
+(<i>Ranunculus nivalis</i>, L.), and in dry places the lousewort
+(<i>Pedicularis hirsuta</i>, L.).</p>
+
+<p>We also collected some fine blooming specimens of the willow, but,
+on the whole, blooming time was over. Vegetation had already partly
+assumed its autumn tints. We had a good opportunity of noting here how
+little change takes place in the course of time. Spots where the autumn
+before we had placed stones or removed them were still unchanged, as if
+but a few days had elapsed since we had been there. This is important,
+as it confirms the fact that many years must have passed since the
+Esquimaux huts had been forsaken.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 24th of August the fog rolled more eastward, and
+coast and island once more made their appearance. Steam was at once
+got up and the anchor weighed, but it was not to be done so easily;
+a large ice-field, several miles in diameter, had jammed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_531">[531]</span> itself so
+close to the land-ice lying east of Pendulum Island, that after a
+fruitless attempt to force our way through we were obliged to go round.
+To increase our difficulties, to the east of the field there was such
+a crowd of blocks, that with all our steam-power we could scarcely get
+through. It was about four p.m. before we had passed the field, and
+found ourselves to the east of the low cliffs close to the land-ice;
+from these we directed our course straight for Cape Philip Broke, as
+this part of the sea was nearly free from ice. At ten minutes past
+seven p.m. we anchored at the Cape, the captain at once climbing the
+nearest hill to see if the water was open on the east side of the
+island. He found that for two nautical miles the ice was loose, and
+there was an open passage.</p>
+
+<p>Farther north, as far as one could see, the land-ice surrounded the
+island to the depth of about four nautical miles. A large field had
+here united with the land-ice, though more easterly there was open
+water to the north, where, as far as the horizon, nothing but water,
+strewn with drifting ice, could be seen. Besides this, the heavens
+on the northern horizon wore a dark aspect as far as the eye could
+see, leading us to conclude that beyond it lay more water,—another
+sufficient reason for talking of an open Arctic Sea, when, from a
+mountain 140 feet high, there is water to be seen, and a dark water
+sky above to the farthest north, and yet we were again doomed to
+disappointment. Indeed, such signs of water as we saw from Shannon
+Island have much to do with the prevailing idea of an open Arctic Sea,
+which is ever cropping up and ever winning friends, in spite of all
+experience to the contrary, and in spite of the weightiest physical
+reasons. Indeed, it is easily shown how little this theory of an open
+sea<span class="pagenum" id="Page_532">[532]</span> at the Pole can be accepted. In the icy sea there are everywhere
+small and large places free from ice caused by local circumstances, so
+that often, even from a high mountain, nothing but water may be seen in
+one particular direction.</p>
+
+<p>Dove’s Isothermal chart gives a temperature of 5° under the Pole; we
+may, therefore, assume that here it is more likely to be lower than
+higher. Even in the warmest months it rises but a few degrees above
+freezing. Thus in the Spitzbergen Sea Scoresby, in 78° N. Lat., which
+is still under the influence of the warm current, finds, after twelve
+years’ observation, the following temperatures;—May, 23° Fahr.;
+June, 31°; July, 36°. We found in our winter harbour, under Sabine
+Island, April, 2° Fahr.; May, 22°; June, 36°; July, 39°; August, 33°;
+September, 24°.</p>
+
+<p>In such temperatures the sea will freeze nine months in the year in the
+open ocean; and amongst the high ice-fields in a calm at midnight, when
+the sun is at its lowest, in every month of the year ice is forming, so
+that the influence of the sun alone is not sufficient to destroy what
+is formed in the winter. Under such conditions it is clear that in a
+completely enclosed sea no open spaces of water could obtain; in a few
+years they would be permanently covered with ice. Such a condition is,
+however, nowhere found within the Arctic basin, for the simple reason
+that its waters are not enclosed, but stand connected with the Atlantic
+Ocean by a powerful arm of the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Strong currents, combined with raging winds in the winter, are the
+cause of the breaking up of the otherwise firm ice, so that the Arctic
+basin may be compared to a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_533">[533]</span> strong running stream of ice. As has
+already been said, we saw from the hill northwards, as far as the eye
+could reach, water and a dark water sky; it was, therefore, thought
+well to steam on without delay. It was, however, discovered that one of
+the boiler-pipes leaked.</p>
+
+<p>Our impatience to push forward before the open water should again be
+blocked by fields, led us to weigh anchor, in the hope that a 40lb.
+pressure would at least not increase the leakage; but this force we
+found insufficient. We were therefore obliged to lie to, as the wind
+was not strong enough for us to work our way through the floes. That
+same night the pipe was repaired. The compulsory stay at this Cape was
+on the following day (25th of July) turned to account by the scientific
+men.</p>
+
+<p>The peculiarity of this part of the island was the broad, soft,
+billowy-shaped plains, in which but little water ran. Everywhere one
+could see distinctly the effects of the spring snows and hear the
+gently-gurgling melted water.</p>
+
+<p>On the 26th of July, at two a.m., we continued our journey northwards.
+The weather was fine, with a light south-west wind, the temperature
+36.5° Fahr. From the mountain the captain had seen that the field
+blocking the channel by the land-ice had parted, so that a passage
+many miles in length had been opened up to us; there was, however,
+a fog-bank to the south, which soon rolled up and enveloped us. At
+five a.m. it cleared, and we found a quantity of ice ahead of us; we
+were close to the most easterly cape of Shannon, Cape Pansch, in the
+same latitude in which Clavering had to turn back on account of the
+densely-packed ice. Here we lay to, and, climbing a neighbouring hill
+of about 100 feet in height, took a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_534">[534]</span> survey. This was not reassuring.
+Closely-packed fields and blocks lay to the north and east of us, so
+that for a time advance seemed impossible, except at a disproportionate
+expenditure of coal. Beyond this ice, however, to our great joy, as far
+as the horizon there was broad open water, so that if only the shifting
+fields and blocks moved from the land-ice we were sure of several
+miles’ clear passage.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the barren earth of the hillock, writes Dr. Pansch, all was a
+desert, but beyond were well-developed blooming plants of well-known
+species (<i>Papaver</i>, <i>Pedicularis</i>, <i>Saxifraga</i>,
+<i>Cerastium</i>, and so on); there were also several other plants,
+particularly a fine yellow-blossoming mustard (<i>Draba alpina</i>,
+L.), and the <i>Oxyria digyna</i> (L.).</p>
+
+<p>On the shore were several pieces of drift-wood. Of birds, besides
+snow-buntings, were a couple of burgomaster-gulls (<i>Larus
+glaucus</i>, L.). Near the ship we saw later a diver (<i>Uria
+grylle</i>) fishing, and a flock of sea-swallows occasionally broke the
+stillness of the evening with their querulous screams.</p>
+
+<p>Further southwards on the distant hills we recognized some musk-oxen,
+and a fine bear walking quietly up and down on the high, steep wall
+of land-ice, who did not allow himself to be disturbed by the passing
+puffing of the steamer.</p>
+
+<p>We kept a sharp look-out from the hills, and when in the afternoon Mr.
+Sengstacke reported that the ice had moved, we steamed forward along
+the edge of the land-ice, which here made a sharp bend to the east.</p>
+
+<p>Too much attention cannot be drawn to the fact that in Arctic regions,
+having once found a suitable way, a little patience and energetic
+action, to turn every favourable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_535">[535]</span> chance to account, is far better than
+blindly fighting against hindrances which can either not be overcome at
+all, or, if so, only at the expense of great loss of time and strength.</p>
+
+<p>At seven p.m. we again stopped, and Dr. Copeland that same evening
+climbed the highest point of the island.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Payer, on the contrary, with the officer O. Trammitz,
+climbed one of the lowest hills. The mountain was composed of syenite,
+which, for the greater part, had split into huge blocks, making the
+climbing anything but easy. The land-ice, which was here from two to
+three nautical miles in breadth, exhibited many cracks and fissures,
+some so broad that Dr. Copeland had to take a plank in order to
+improvise a bridge over which to cross.</p>
+
+<p>During the night a thick fog lay to the east, but with a light north
+wind lifted towards the morning, so that we steamed forwards in fine
+weather, and with the hope of leaving some miles behind us that day.
+The water was quite free from ice; even the pack-ice in the east was
+no longer visible from the deck. Eight nautical miles we made without
+obstacles that day, when the road grew narrower and narrower, and at
+fifty minutes past ten a.m. became blocked by a huge mass; and from
+the masts of the ship no signs of water could be seen. This mass was
+connected with the land-ice; and, unless it should be separated by a
+strong wind, all further advance was impossible. Our latitude was 75°
+29′ N., a few minutes more than we had reached the previous summer.</p>
+
+<p>As the weather was pleasant, we landed to explore the island; and as it
+was clear that this would be the most northerly point of the coast that
+we could reach with the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_536">[536]</span> ship, the botanists did their best. They were
+surprised to find so much vegetation on a tongue of land so surrounded
+with ice. Certainly, after getting over the land-ice, we had had to
+cross a stretch of the driest and most barren pebbly ground that we had
+yet seen in Greenland.</p>
+
+<p>There was, writes Dr. Pansch, not the smallest trace of moss. As we
+toiled up the slope in the warm morning sun, we were again reminded of
+the chalk Alps of Switzerland. We stopped upon a height where Andromeda
+grew plentifully, but all the plants seemed nearly lifeless; so dry was
+their foliage that the Andromeda burnt like tinder. The plants on the
+summit were as sapless, though taller and more vigorous; particularly
+some species of grass between the blocks of rock, and some small
+willows.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of this part of the island was, however, not so arid; in the
+low-lying districts and hollows lay masses of snow, spreading into
+ponds, with marshy banks and gurgling brooks running through luxuriant
+green meadows of moss and grass. Here we saw the yellow-blossomed
+ranunculus and the saxifrage; the white-blossoming Dryas opened its
+large flowers, and the Pedicularis reminded us of home scenery.</p>
+
+<p>As was the case on Sabine Island, on our return we came upon large
+tracts of land under gurgling water, which were of course fruitful.</p>
+
+<p>Farther on we collected some well preserved pieces of drift-wood; it
+was in such masses, and had evidently lain so long, that we concluded
+that for miles round no natives could have lived for some time. Such
+valuable material as drift-wood in so accessible a situation they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_537">[537]</span>
+could scarcely have overlooked; besides the usual fir and larch, were
+pieces of Alder (<i>Alnus incana</i>, L.) and poplar (<i>Populus
+tremula</i>, L.), plainly showing that the drift-wood of North-east
+Greenland comes originally from North Siberia; whence driven into the
+sea by the strong currents, it floats in a westerly direction, north of
+Spitzbergen, and is carried on until it reaches the Greenland coast,
+when it takes a southerly course.</p>
+
+<p>We dredged by the ship’s side to thirty fathoms; and though the booty
+was poor, it was interesting, consisting as it did of some elegant
+corals.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 28th of July Lieutenant Payer returned from his
+excursion, reporting that the prospect to the north was not comforting;
+nothing but ice as far as the eye could reach; no signs of water.</p>
+
+<p>No change on the 29th; nothing but heavy ice and a white ice-sky to
+the north. It was evident that until the beginning of the autumn
+storms nothing could set the enormous mass in motion. According to our
+experience, these did not begin before the middle or end of August,
+and therefore not until near the end of the sailing-season; so that,
+as our instructions positively forbade a second wintering, we should
+have to think of returning. The probability of advancing further, even
+in the course of the year, was very uncertain, besides the threatening
+danger to the ship from the crowding masses of ice, and to this danger
+the amount of knowledge gained would scarcely be equivalent. All
+this considered, the Captain thought the best plan was to spend the
+remainder of the time in exploring the coast and the interior of the
+country. Whether this decision was the best must be left to a just and
+well-versed judge; sufficient, that all<span class="pagenum" id="Page_538">[538]</span> the officers and scientific
+members of the Expedition unanimously agreed with the Captain.</p>
+
+<p>Steam was got up once more; but at a pressure of thirty pounds the
+boiler-pipe leaked again. During the night our bay filled more and more
+with large floes and blocks, which had broken partly from the land-ice,
+but also came up from the south, threatening to block us up entirely.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5381_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5381_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_538"><i>Page 538.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE GERMANIA ON THE NORTHERN COAST OF SHANNON.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>At ten minutes past three a.m. on the 30th of July, we again steamed
+southwards.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_539">[539]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVI.<br>
+<span class="subhed">COAST VOYAGE OF THE GERMANIA TOWARDS THE SOUTH.—JACKSON ISLAND.—CAPE
+BROER RUYS.—BOAT JOURNEY.—EXPLORATION OF FRANZ-JOSEPH’S FJORD.<a id="FNanchor_89" href="#Footnote_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a></span></h2>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Departure from Sabine Island.—Storm from the North.—Landing
+on the Eastern Cape of Jackson Island.—Excursions.—Further
+progress Southwards.—Cape Broer Ruys.—Hudson’s “Hold with
+Hope.”—Boat journey along the Coast to explore Mackenzie’s
+Inlet.—Esquimaux huts.—Pleasures of boat-journeying.—Icebergs
+to the South.—Indication of the proximity of large
+Fjord.—Journey to Cape Franklin.—Payer and Copeland ascend
+the point of Cape Franklin.—Discovery of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s
+Fjord.—Payer’s account of the ascent of the point of Cape
+Franklin.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The next day was Sunday; and after all necessary work had been done,
+the men were allowed a short holiday, which they well deserved, and
+which many employed in taking leave of the spot which for a whole year
+had been their home.</p>
+
+<p>But home was not to be thought of yet, since to all appearances this
+summer, as regarded the condition of the ice, was far more favourable
+than the last. From Germaniaberg, towards the south and south-east,
+there was open water on all sides between the floes. At night we had a
+sudden four hours’ storm from the north; this was the first time we had
+seen real storm-clouds in Greenland, although there was neither thunder
+nor lightning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_540">[540]</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of August, at ten minutes past six a.m., we weighed anchor
+and steamed out of our harbour. Between Cape Wynn and Flache Bay were
+large brashes of land-ice which had been broken in the night from
+Clavering Straits, and driven south; but eventually we pushed our way
+through the masses to Jackson Island, partly for further scientific
+observations, and partly to increase our collection.</p>
+
+<p>We anchored at four p.m. south of the east cape of the island. The
+mountains rose above 1000 feet, and on the east side were steep cliffs
+and slopes, so that close to the shore were still two fathoms of water.
+The astronomers took observations and collected geological specimens.
+Dr. Pansch botanized, and Lieutenant Payer climbed the highest points
+of the island to survey it in detail. Some remains of Esquimaux huts
+were found, also some skulls and sundry implements. Traces of the
+musk-ox and reindeer were everywhere visible.</p>
+
+<p>Upon landing, we had but to cross a short stretch of dark sand and
+stones, when we found ourselves upon a green plain, covered thickly
+with various kinds of grass, and with the blossom of the taraxacum
+and ranunculus. The elegant sprays of the stellaria wound themselves
+far and near, whilst in the soft-cushioned moss were some stiff
+willow bushes. Here in our shirt sleeves we chased the butterfly,
+which was fluttering from flower to flower, it was the small brown
+bluish variegated <i>Argynnis polaris</i> (Boisd.), and <i>Argynnis
+chariclea</i> (Herbst), that we already knew from Pendulum Island; our
+attention was also drawn to a larger fine yellow butterfly, which we
+eventually caught, the <i>Colias Hecla</i>.</p>
+
+<p>We also found the already well-known spider (<i>Lycosa<span class="pagenum" id="Page_541">[541]</span>
+aguilonaris</i>, Koch). It is interesting to know that this species is
+also met with among the glaciers of the European Alps.</p>
+
+<p>Farther westward the thick turf, plants, and grass grew more in clumps
+and bushes. Besides those always met with, was the beautiful willow
+rose (<i>Epilobium latifolium</i>, L.); it grew in small bushes by Cape
+Mary; here it was not in bud, but from three to five large blossoms
+perfectly developed, stood close together on one stalk of a beautiful
+red colour. There were also many other beautiful flowering plants which
+have already been mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>Later on the boats took us still more westward; where, on a small steep
+promontory, the burgomaster-gull had its nesting-place; there were
+about six nests, from one of which a hungry young one stretched its
+grey head.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped here to collect plants, and we were not disappointed;
+luxuriant were the leaves of the Oxyria and others in the rocky
+fissures. Dr. Pansch here looked out for something new, and found to
+his delight a row of elegant plants with pale violet blossoms, the
+common eye-bright (<i>Euphrasia officinalis</i>, L.), which we never
+met with again.</p>
+
+<p>A walk the next day on the mountain to the west showed us that
+vegetation was pretty luxuriant everywhere. From hence we turned to
+the rocky heights of the East Cape, under which the Germania was
+anchored; here we were met by a flock of screaming burgomaster-gulls;
+there must have been from ten to fifteen nests. Amongst the rolling
+pebbles, nearly under the overhanging rocks, were thick bushes of the
+large-leaved Oxyria in bloom.</p>
+
+<p>In ornithology we found nothing new; but Dr. Copeland picked up
+on the shore several black feathers, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_542">[542]</span> undoubtedly belonged
+to two different kinds of duck, the <i>Anser albifrons</i> and
+<i>leucopsis</i>. Sea-swallows were in large flocks.</p>
+
+<p>From the form and position of the land on this spot, we conjectured
+that there might be some ancient traces of the natives, and possibly
+some winter huts; these, however, did not turn up; but we found a few
+tent-rings and some long four-cornered ruined heaps of stone, which we
+took to be graves, but found nothing amongst them. On the cliffs of the
+East Cape, however, something interesting was discovered. Amongst the
+loose stones, Peter Iversen pulled out what he thought to be a piece of
+drift-wood, but it proved to be a regularly worked long four-cornered
+plank, with fine holes along the edge. We turned over the stones and
+found some more planks, also a well-preserved skull and some arm and
+leg bones.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5420_ill">
+  <img
+    class="p1" 
+    src="images/p5420_ill.jpg"
+    alt="">
+  </div>
+
+<p>How could we account for this strange discovery? Evidently the body had
+been purposely buried under the stones; that it should have come there
+by chance was not probable. We could think of no other solution than
+that of some religious motive. Upon putting the boards together, we
+had a box of 9·4 inches in length, 6 inches in breadth, and about 3·2
+inches high; the boards were one-fifth of an inch thick; it had had a
+partly closed lid, only a space of 1·7 inches broad being left open;
+instead of hinges there were small straps, and on the other side a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_543">[543]</span>
+hole, showing that there must have been some sort of a fastening. The
+boards were put together by small wooden nails or pegs.</p>
+
+<p>Without doubt, of all the things we had discovered, this box showed the
+most artistic workmanship; and taking into consideration the little use
+such an implement would be in an Esquimaux household, and the peculiar
+spot on which it was found, the supposition that it must in some way be
+connected with the religious worship of the natives seems justified.</p>
+
+<p>Close by among the rocks, Dr. Copeland found a well-preserved piece of
+a stone vessel, which the Esquimaux hang over their lamps; it seemed
+to have been rounded off at the edges, was long and four-cornered and
+about three inches and three-quarters thick; it was of opaque stone and
+carefully worked. The underneath part and sides were covered with a
+coating of soot.</p>
+
+<p>From all this we gathered that the island had been visited by the
+natives several times, but that they had made no long stay, possibly
+because the neighbourhood was not favourable to the musk-ox and other
+animals.</p>
+
+<p>During the night large masses of land-ice were loosened, which set
+with great speed eastward, so that towards the morning of the 2nd
+of August we could see from the neighbouring mountain of 800 feet
+high that southward to Cape Broer Ruys and beyond there was much
+open water. Lieut. Payer suggested exploring Gael Hamkes Bay; but
+upon consideration Captain Koldewey thought it better to go further
+south, and if possible penetrate into one of the larger sounds, either
+Scoresby’s Sound, or Davy Sound, as Scoresby reported that they
+stretched far inland.</p>
+
+<p>The weather remained fine and bright, with light sou’west<span class="pagenum" id="Page_544">[544]</span> and west
+winds, thereby driving the ice from the land and opening a free passage
+for us. In the best of spirits we weighed anchor on the morning of
+the 3rd of August, and steered south in a temperature of 11° to 13°
+above freezing. After going some distance, as there was apparently an
+impassable block of ice to the south, we steered westward, and anchored
+under the coast. One glimpse from the mountains above showed that, as
+far as the eye could reach, the ice lay firm to the land, and that the
+entrance to the great Sound at that time was impracticable. Bontekoe
+Island was enclosed in ice.</p>
+
+<p>We therefore agreed upon a boat journey along the coast to westward, to
+investigate what on Clavering’s chart was marked as Mackenzie Inlet.
+The further we advanced southward the greener and more beautiful became
+the country. Comparing these far stretching valleys and mountain
+slopes and the in some places luxuriant growth of grass and sward
+with the scant vegetation of Sabine Island, we could scarcely believe
+that we were not more than one degree of latitude from it. Many herds
+of reindeer were grazing here, and musk-oxen were by no means rare.
+At noon the temperature rose to above 54°, and in swampy places were
+swarms of mosquitos (<i>Tipula truncorum</i>, Meig.).</p>
+
+<p>Of birds, besides snow-buntings there were some shore-birds, such as
+<i>Strepsilas interpres</i> and <i>Tringa maritima</i>. Except a few
+tent-rings, nothing reminded us of the Esquimaux. Farther westward the
+appearance of the ground changed; the whole promontory was covered
+with vegetation resembling the early spring-time at home when the
+fresh green is everywhere, but the growth of the plants is still low.
+Here the different kinds of knotgrasses; two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_545">[545]</span> kinds of cotton-grass,
+<i>Eriophorum polystachium</i> (L.), and <i>Eriophorum scheuchzeri</i>
+(Hppe.), and several kinds of <i>Carex</i>, as well as <i>Juncus
+biglumis</i> (L.), and other plants before mentioned, flourished.</p>
+
+<p>In several places we met with the bilberry (<i>Vaccinium</i>): this
+was the most northerly point of the coast, and though the plants were
+plentiful they were low and the wood soft; signs of fruit or blossom
+were nowhere to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>When the boat started for Mackenzie Inlet, Dr. Pansch remained on
+board, although everything seemed to promise well both for ethnology
+and botany, but he thought it his duty to pay some attention to marine
+zoology, and hoped to bring up some fine specimens of the sea Fauna
+and Flora at great depths. The first dredge near the ship, at from
+three to five fathoms, gave crustacea, mussels, cockles, and worms, as
+well as some small slimy fish which were not new to us. Our hopes of
+enriching our collection failed partly from stormy weather, and partly
+because Dr. Pansch was suffering under peculiar circumstances, at one
+time being in an excited nervous state, and at another in apathetic
+drowsiness: rest and much sleep, however, soon relieved these symptoms.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we shot five reindeer easily, the herd being so
+confiding that they allowed themselves to be surrounded before they
+thought of moving. We therefore rejoiced in some fresh meat, which
+lately had been scarce. From constant motion in the fresh air the men’s
+appetites were so great that the cook grumbled from morning till night
+that he could never satisfy the men. With such nourishment our strength
+increased, our working powers were doubled, and universal good spirits
+reigned on board the Germania.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_546">[546]</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of August preparations were made for a boat journey, and on
+the 6th we sailed at nine a.m. with provisions for eight days. The wind
+blew fresh from the north, and the water was as flat as the land, which
+just here rose but little. After a course of eight nautical miles we
+came to a tongue of land, beyond which the coast took a curve to the
+north-west. From here we soon saw that Mackenzie Inlet was only a creek
+into which a stream fell, often running through a valley. We sailed to
+the end of the creek and landed. Our men gazed with longing eyes on
+some reindeer which were feeding near, and soon shot one. Close against
+the shore, under the green slope of a hill, were the remains of some
+Esquimaux huts, evidently much older than those on Clavering Island.
+Whilst Dr. Copeland investigated these, Dr. Börgen and the Captain took
+the bearings of our position. During the morning we had made twelve
+nautical miles in three hours, and now spent the whole afternoon on our
+work. In the evening the Captain and Dr. Copeland climbed a hill lying
+to the north-west, about 475 feet high: from thence we could see the
+end of Loch Fine, the Fjord discovered by Clavering in 1823, behind
+which rose a highly picturesque mountain chain. Before us lay a plain
+stretching far to the south-south-west as far as Cape Franklin, and
+disappearing with a mountain chain to the west, marked on our chart
+as Bennet Island. Beyond this plain, near Cape Franklin, glittered a
+number of icebergs, bringing us to the conclusion that yonder must
+be the mouth of a large Fjord; for along the coast we had seen no
+glacier from which they could have sprung. Delighted with this apparent
+discovery we returned to the tent, agreeing that the next morning we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_547">[547]</span>
+would make for Bennet Island, and if possible advance as far as Cape
+Franklin.</p>
+
+<p>It was the 7th of August. The sky was clouded in the east, and it had
+rained hard in the night. But it cleared at ten o’clock, and we set
+sail with a light south-easterly wind. This soon lulled, and we had
+to take to the oars, so that we did not reach Cape Bennet until the
+afternoon, when we had to seek protection in the tent from the rain.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 8th the fog seemed to have dispersed, and we
+steered straight for Cape Franklin. The icebergs increased and although
+the land retreated to the south-west, we could still see no glaciers.
+It was evident to us that we were on the point of making an important
+discovery. At two nautical miles east of the Cape we were obliged to
+halt. The ice lay fast to the land, and sheer across the mouth of the
+Fjord, forming a barrier that our ship could not force. The boat must,
+therefore, be tugged over, but before doing this it was advisable to
+ascertain whether it was navigable.</p>
+
+<p>Tent and tools were therefore landed, and Copeland and Payer prepared
+to climb the mountain, 4550 feet high. After doing all necessary work,
+we followed, and Börgen and the Captain mounted a rocky height of 475
+feet, from whence their astonished eyes beheld a landscape, which was
+indescribable in its extraordinary grandeur. The interior of Greenland
+lay there like a splendid picture, displaying the Alpine world in its
+highest style. At our feet lay the mouth of a great Fjord, or rather
+arm of the sea, perfectly free from drifting ice, but covered with
+numerous icebergs of from 95 to 190 feet high, and stretching westward
+in the far, far distance,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_548">[548]</span> then seeming to divide into several arms,
+rising even higher and higher into the regions of eternal snow and ice.</p>
+
+<p>This was a moment which richly rewarded us for all our troubles and
+difficulties. Before us lay in all its virgin beauty the mirrored
+surface of these unknown waters, and if only we could succeed in
+bringing up our ship, what scope was there for science and discovery;
+aye, even into the very heart of Greenland! But it seemed almost
+impossible, a mailed ship could never break through this barrier of
+many feet. There was therefore nothing for it but to pull the boat
+over; preparatory to this we were to have a little rest, especially as
+Payer and Copeland could not return before morning.</p>
+
+<p>Koldewey was, however, awoke from a beautiful morning slumber by
+Copeland’s voice, who, looking in at the tent, called to him that the
+ice had broken and was moving eastward. Jumping up, we hurried from the
+tent; to convince ourselves was the work of a moment, when there was a
+loud hurrah! “Now, my good fellows, pack up; we must be back on board
+to-day, and bring up the Germania.” This was answered by a cheerful
+“Aye, aye!” and all hands went to work. Could we yet get over seven
+German miles to-day?</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Payer gives the following account of Franklin Point:—“We
+followed a valley running from the mountain (the other side of Cape
+Franklin), until we came to a raging glacier stream cut at least thirty
+yards deep in the perpendicular rock. How should we get to the other
+side? was the question. At last, going up the stream, we came to a
+natural bridge; the capabilities of which we tried by dropping a block
+of rock upon it, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_549">[549]</span> then began a quick march over the declivity,
+fragments of which were set in motion at every step. This declivity
+ended at a high basalt-wall, which cut like a road through the massive
+rocks of the Cape, seeming to isolate them from one another. We
+scrambled through this confusion of rocks over a craggy ridge to the
+edge of a high roof-shaped glacier, and then on to a weather-beaten
+cone, thus reaching the north-easterly summit of the group of rocks
+forming the Cape.</p>
+
+<p>“What an unexpected sight met our delighted eyes! A monstrous Fjord
+with numberless glistening icebergs lay to the westward at our feet,
+with its high many branching rocky masses covered with ice, sometimes
+enclosing real islands with rugged walls.</p>
+
+<p>“More than ten German miles to westward we could see that one of
+the chief arms of the Fjord curved in a south-westerly direction,
+at the foot of a mountain-chain about 8750 feet high. To the south
+the solitary Cape Parry stretched far into the sea, in spite of the
+crowding of the pack-ice which lay silent and stiff to the farthest
+horizon, and through which we should one day have to make our return
+journey to Europe.</p>
+
+<p>“It was eight p.m., as after five hours’ march we reached the
+summit; the temperature was 34° Fahr., and not a breath of wind was
+stirring; and Payer sat down without a coat to sketch the panorama,
+and then proceed to trigonometrical measurement. By the help of some
+solar observations the azimuth of the most southerly point of our
+trigonometrical net was decided, in order to connect our standing-point
+with it.</p>
+
+<p>“After four hours’ stay we went along a craggy ridge to the south-west,
+to satisfy ourselves as to the northerly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_550">[550]</span> direction of the Fjord arm.
+At two a.m. we reached a rocky group towering above a snow plateau, the
+altitude of which was at least 4900 feet; and from which we convinced
+ourselves that the chief arm of Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord was really
+to be sought in a northerly direction.</p>
+
+<p>“At half-past four a.m. all our work was finished on this spot, and at
+nine we returned to our tent.”</p>
+
+<p>At Bennet Island we rested, after a good meal, though five reindeer
+which we had shot in Mackenzie Bay had already turned bad, showing the
+effects of a Greenland sun. We could easily have provided some more, as
+a herd of twenty-two lay about 1000 paces from us, and dispersed only
+by degrees, with the exception of five or six who seemed to have no
+desire to move; this indolence, however, was not encouraged, the old
+leader of the herd returning and striking them with his horns, until
+they lazily rose and followed the others.</p>
+
+<p>At the south-east cape from Bennet the loosened ice floating eastward
+was so heaped up, that we were obliged to tug the boat. Later on, too,
+we had to make a great curve in order to avoid some large drifting
+masses, so that not until midnight did we reach the ship, thoroughly
+tired out.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_551">[551]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">SAILING INTO THE FJORD.—ASCENT OF PAYER’S PEAK.—DISCOVERY OF
+PETERMANN PEAK.—THE RETURN VOYAGE DECIDED ON.<a id="FNanchor_90" href="#Footnote_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Cape Franklin passed.—Entrance into the Fjord.—Magnificent
+scenery of the Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord.—The
+Teufelschloss (Devil’s Castle).—Interminable branchings of
+the Fjord.—Great depth of the Fjord.—Payer’s, Copeland’s,
+and Ellinger’s mountain ascent and Glacier journey on 12th
+of August.—Condition of the Germania’s boilers.—A second
+wintering not in accordance with our strict instructions to
+avoid risk.—Our return to Germany decided on.—Erection of a
+memorial cairn at the anchorage of the Germania.—The Germania
+aground.—Cause of the numerous drifting icebergs near the
+coast-land.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>During our absence the crew of the Germania had been much troubled with
+the floating ice, which at times was driven in great masses round the
+Cape; so that Sengstacke was obliged to bring the ship nearer to land.
+With this exception all had gone on well.</p>
+
+<p>The weather remained fine and clear, with a light west wind; we weighed
+anchor, and at ten a.m. steamed through the advancing masses of loose
+land-ice towards the newly discovered Fjord. At first, we had some
+trouble to steer our way through it; but after passing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_552">[552]</span> Bennet’s
+peninsula the water was more open, and at five p.m. we passed Cape
+Franklin and ran into the Fjord.</p>
+
+<p>What strange feelings arose within us as we advanced into these lonely
+waters, as yet uncleft by the keel of any vessel.</p>
+
+<p>At first we steered along the northern bank of the Fjord, stretching
+in a west-north-westerly direction, and afterwards changing to a
+north-westerly; but as we noticed a larger branch dividing into several
+arms running westward, we decided upon following that first, as it
+would most likely take us deeper into the interior.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Payer gives the following excellent description of this
+wonderful district:—“We had entered a basin, the shores of which were
+formed by rocks, which for glorious form and colour I had never seen
+equalled. Here were congregated all the peculiarities of the Alpine
+world: huge walls, deep erosion-fissures, wild peaks, mighty crevassed
+glaciers, raging torrents, and waterfalls; which in Europe, as a rule,
+come but singly. All these pictures of wild beauty were taken in at a
+glance. To me the impression given by the high towering rocky mountains
+of the basin was that of some fairy tale. A colossal cubic rock on the
+small basis of a tongue of land stretched itself far into the Fjord,
+rising out of the blue water to a height of at least 5600 feet; regular
+reddish-yellow, black, and light stripes, showing the different layers
+of the stone. The terraces and towers on its edges resembled a ruined
+castle; we therefore called it the Devil’s Castle.</p>
+
+<p>“Never in the Alps had I seen anything even approaching this in
+grandeur. Here a diminutive Matterhorn<span class="pagenum" id="Page_553">[553]</span> rose straight from the water;
+there rushed a huge mass of water from some glacier over the giant
+walls deep down into the clear quiet water below.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5521_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5521_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm center">London. Sampson Low, Marston, Low, &amp; Searle. 188 Fleet Street.</p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">THE DEVIL’S CASTLE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5530_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5530_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">REGENERATED GLACIER IN EMPEROR FRANZ-JOSEPH’S FJORD.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>“Day and night we stayed on deck, every moment bringing some
+astonishing scene, conjuring up as it were some natural wonder, our
+astonished eyes wandering from one point to the other. No sound but
+that of the monotonous click of the machinery and the rushing of
+the keel-water broke the solemn stillness. The transparency<span class="pagenum" id="Page_554">[554]</span> of the
+atmosphere showed up every individual feature, and the morning sun
+warmed the blue air pleasantly, in which the smoke from our chimney
+floated in horizontal stripes.”</p>
+
+<p>Further, and further we advanced; until, at last, we thought that our
+discoveries had come to an end, but steering south-west towards the
+“Devil’s Castle,” there suddenly opened upon us a gateway at least two
+nautical miles broad, with wondrously beautiful scenery; and to the
+west, another seemingly endless branch of the Fjord. For some hours
+longer we continued to advance, when the engineer informed us that the
+boiler leaked again, and that he must put out the fire.</p>
+
+<p>On the south side of the Fjord we saw what we thought would be a good
+spot to anchor, which we did in ten fathoms of water at nine a.m. on
+the 11th of August.</p>
+
+<p>This point, the most westerly that we reached, was in 73° 11´ 6″ N.
+Lat. and 25° 58´ 6″ W. Long, from Greenwich.</p>
+
+<p>We now decided upon climbing one of the higher mountains, in order that
+we might have a good general view of the whole neighbourhood. This
+First-Lieutenant Payer undertook to do; Dr. Copeland climbed to one of
+the glaciers, to prepare some contrivance for measuring the rate of its
+motion; Dr. Börgen conveyed all necessary instruments on shore; and Dr.
+Pansch rambled in the neighbourhood in search of Fauna and Flora.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5541_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5541_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_554"><i>Page 554.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">MOUNTAIN PEAK BEHIND THE GLACIERS—MORAINE IN THE FOREGROUND.</p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5550_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5550_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">END OF THE GLACIER IN EMPEROR FRANZ-JOSEPH’S FJORD.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>An attempt to observe the tides utterly failed, on account of the
+waves caused by the continual descent of icebergs. A current in any
+direction, either constant or alternating, we could not, in spite of
+the most <span class="pagenum" id="Page_555">[555]</span>careful observation, be sure of; the icebergs seeming to
+drift here and there, without being subject to any settled influence,
+and upon the whole changing their places but very little. A regular
+rising and falling of the water was however perceptible, and, according
+to the high-water mark on the shore, the tide evidently rose to
+the same height as on the outer coast. The depth of the Fjord was
+considerable, near the land being 100 fathoms and more, and in the
+middle Mr. Sengstacke did not touch the ground with a 500 fathom line.
+The surface temperature was high, and rose to 46° Fahr., but at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_556">[556]</span>
+sixty-five fathoms it was only 34°, and still deeper it was lower. The
+saltness of the water in connexion with its specific gravity, in spite
+of the amount of fresh melted water, showed no difference from that of
+the open sea.</p>
+
+<p>The atmospheric temperature between these steep, rocky walls, which had
+been so warmed from the late steady sunshine, was of course higher than
+that on the outside coast. On board, where, from the cooling influence
+of the melting icebergs, it was considerably colder than on land, the
+mean daily temperature given was—August 11th, 48° Fahr.; August 12th,
+45°; August 13th, 44°: the maximum on the 11th of August amounted to
+53°, and the minimum on the same day only 42° Fahr.</p>
+
+<p>Only once, on the 1st of July at noon, did the temperature, in the
+winter harbour under Sabine Island, rise to 56°, and the mean daily
+temperature on this our warmest day was 47½°. In August a marked
+decrease is to be noticed. On Sabine Island the difference between the
+two months amounted to 5.40°, and we might therefore conclude that here
+in July the temperature of the interior of the Fjord must often rise
+to 58° or 59° Fahr.; how otherwise can we explain the melting of the
+entire winter-ice, as in the summer season the interior of the Fjord is
+not exposed to the influence of the warmer sea water?</p>
+
+<p>On land, in the warm months, the steady sunshine raises the warmth in
+the valleys and on the mountain slopes still higher, and, for these
+high latitudes, a luxuriant growth of plants shoots up rapidly. Dr.
+Pansch thus describes the vegetation:—</p>
+
+<p>“We found it much in the same freshness and vigour as on the higher
+Alps in Switzerland. As on Clavering<span class="pagenum" id="Page_557">[557]</span> Island, all the mountain slopes
+were green; though there were large spots of low, woody bushes, namely,
+willow, birch, and bilberry. The willow was the common and only kind
+met with here, the <i>Salix arctica</i> (Pall.); and in connexion with
+its very strong growth is the fact that the rings formed in the stem
+every year had attained .06 of an inch, whilst, as a rule, they are not
+more than from .004 to .012. Fruit we frequently met with.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5570_ill">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5570_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">LOWER END OF THE GLACIERS.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>“As regards the birch, thick bushes stood alongside the old moraine,
+rising to the height of from two to three feet;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_558">[558]</span> though we could see
+that in the hollows it attained even a greater height than this. The
+boughs were thickly interlaced, and in the inside of the bushes mostly
+leafless. That the climate agreed with this dwarf birch (<i>Betula
+nana</i>, L., <i>var. genuina</i>, Regel) we could tell by the number
+of catkins upon them. Later on we found that a stem of four-tenths of
+an inch in diameter had sixty-seven rings.</p>
+
+<p>“The commonest of all, however, was the bilberry (<i>Vaccinium
+uliginosum</i>, L.) which covered the slopes, but did not grow very
+high. Other striking plants were the willow herb (<i>Epilobium</i>)
+and the harebells; of the latter, besides the elsewhere observed
+<i>C. uniflora</i> (L.), we found the <i>C. rotundifolia</i> (L.),
+<i>var. arctica</i> (J. Lange), which reached a stately height. Near
+it flourished the evergreen <i>Pyrola rotundifolia</i> (L.), <i>var.
+arenaria</i> (Koch).</p>
+
+<p>“Here on the slopes, at a height of from 800 to 900 feet, was the
+finest and most varied vegetation; and the highest grasses and shrubs
+mostly in bloom, and some bearing fruit. And as a last surprise, we
+discovered the Alpine-rose (<i>Rhododendron lapponicum</i>, L.), but,
+unfortunately, the blossoms were over. The same was the case with the
+bearberry (<i>Arctostaphylos alpina</i>, Spreng.), of which, in spite
+of all our seeking, we could only find a small bush, on which hung some
+fine ripe fruit. The most interesting find, however, to us, because not
+previously met with, was the moss <i>Grimmia lanuginosa</i> (C. Müll.),
+<i>var. arctica</i>.</p>
+
+<p>“Besides birds, we also caught an ermine hurrying between the stones,
+and saw ravens, ducks, hares, and reindeer; of the latter, near
+Eleanora Bay, was a whole herd. The only traces of the natives were the
+remains of store-holes and tent-rings or circles.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_559">[559]</span></p>
+
+<p>On the 12th of August First-Lieutenant Payer, Dr. Copeland, and Peter
+Ellinger started to climb the glacier. Payer thus describes the
+excursion:—</p>
+
+<p>“Our outfit consisted of climbing-irons, alpenstocks, and an
+eighteen-fathom rope.</p>
+
+<p>“The scenery of the valley was simple but imposing; it consisted of
+massive granite walls, between which tongues of ice were pressed,
+the torrents from which formed a row of beautiful waterfalls; mighty
+gateways of ice, and a number of wild <i>seracs</i>, which depended
+from the high glacier peaks in the background like steps. Close by, in
+the glacier basin, which was about six miles broad, from a basis 3900
+feet high rose an isolated pyramid of ice about 2950 feet high sheer
+into the air.</p>
+
+<p>“At first we kept to a tolerable path, trodden by the reindeer above
+the left bank of the stream. The end of the largest valley glacier lay
+875 feet above the level of the sea; and the edge of the tongue of ice,
+which was covered with <i>débris</i>, was at the commencement convex,
+and 2950 feet in breadth; then becoming concave, it widened to 7180
+feet, and sloped, in a broken surface, down to the adjacent land.</p>
+
+<p>“We took to the glacier at about 2100 feet above the sea’s level. Its
+surface, like the mountain slopes, was free from snow; and the covering
+of rubbish, which until now had been in one connected mass, branched
+upwards into four central moraines. The prevailing colour of the ice
+here is whitish green; the ice layers the same as those under similar
+circumstances in the Alps. Very different, however, is the surface of
+a Greenland glacier. In Europe they split upon going over any mountain
+step, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_560">[560]</span> the same at the junction of any streams, into a chaos of
+needles and steps. Our ice, exposed to greater periodical and daily
+differences of atmospheric temperature, becomes very much denser than
+can be the case in Greenland, where, for the greater part of the year,
+the low temperature is stationary. Hence the northern glacier-ice is
+less glassy and dense, possesses greater elasticity, and greater power
+of passing over steep descents without breaking.</p>
+
+<p>“Numerous brooks fell spluttering over fathom-deep furrows; the
+inclination was about four degrees; higher up it was more; in some
+places twenty; but nowhere did we need the climbing-irons. The glacier,
+however, from the numerous side streams issuing, from many points, and
+even at right angles, began to be full of fissures.</p>
+
+<p>“The greatest stream came from the south, flowing from a valley
+surrounded by craggy granite walls. The long undulations were split
+into close-lying fissures. We floundered from labyrinth to labyrinth,
+and were forced to make many circuits, and, though sounding carefully,
+I repeatedly sank to the shoulder, the icy spikes rattling down into
+the depths like broken glass. The cords to bind us together were
+indispensable, as we could never, like European Alpine parties, have
+been got out of the depths. Sometimes we stood all together on a small
+band of ice, surrounded by a deceitful covering of snow which concealed
+a dark abyss.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5601_ill" style="max-width: 750px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5601_ill.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min sm right"><a href="#Page_560"><i>Page 560.</i></a></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">GLACIER OF PAYER’S PEAK, AS SEEN FROM THE NORTHERN LATERAL MORAINE.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<p>“In the course of my former labours in the Alps it had been granted
+me many times to gaze in wonder from heights of 9000 to 12,000 feet
+upon the majestic beauty of those icy uplands. But what a difference!
+Throughout the whole vast prospect lay the <span class="pagenum" id="Page_561">[561]</span>stillness of death;
+scarcely a sign of life interrupted the rough grandeur of the mountain
+land. Instead of the luxuriant plains of our own Alpine valleys, with
+their farms and villages, lay the dark water-surface of the Fjord 6850
+feet beneath us. Countless icebergs floated on its surface, looking
+in the distance like glistening pearls, and the frightful rocky walls
+seemed to descend perpendicularly into it. From every mountain steep of
+yonder valley descended gigantic glaciers, and from the high barrier of
+ice at its lower end the stately icebergs were loosened, and carried
+onward to the ocean by ebb-tide and current.</p>
+
+<p>“One thing attracted our attention more than anything else, and that
+was a monstrous pyramid of ice to the west, rising about 4850 feet
+above a high mountain ridge. This glorious peak could bear none other
+name than that of Petermann, the honoured originator of the first
+German Arctic Expedition: its real height must have approached 11,000
+feet.</p>
+
+<p>“Along the horizon stretched an Alpine world, with countless summits,
+exceeding 9700 feet. The Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord could be traced
+for about forty miles towards W.S.S.</p>
+
+<p>“For two hours I had been sketching and working with the theodolite
+on the top of a rocky projection, and in order that I might not slip,
+had taken off my shoes and stood in my stockings, although they were
+wet through from the long walk in the snow, and quite frozen. This
+caused me to suffer more from the cold than I had done during our
+worst sleighing journeys, when the cold, at 27° Fahr.,<a id="FNanchor_91" href="#Footnote_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> had been
+unnoticed. The temperature,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_562">[562]</span> taken on the ship at the same time, was
+44.6°, showing a decrease of 2¼° for every 700 feet of height.</p>
+
+<p>“Organic life was confined to a fibrous moss (<i>Grimmia lanuginosa,
+var. arctica</i>), and to the black and yellow osier (<i>Gyrophora
+anthracina</i>), which are also met with on the highest points of the
+Alps. We left the summit at eleven p.m., taking a new and far shorter
+way back over the ridge of the mountain, and at seven a.m. reached the
+ship after one and twenty hours’ absence.”</p>
+
+<p>We now found that reliance could no longer be placed upon the boiler,
+the machinist informing us that at the utmost it could only last
+forty-eight hours. This was sad news, as all the steam power now to
+be obtained must be used for reaching the outer coast; for with sails
+alone in the heavy calm we should with difficulty be able to work
+our way out of this rocky basin in time, and a second wintering was
+expressly forbidden in our “Instructions.” Our time here, therefore,
+at the latest was until the end of August, but experience had already
+shown that before that time the mouth of the Fjord was blocked by a
+setting in of heavy ice.</p>
+
+<p>There were also many reasons against a boat-journey in the short time
+we had to spare, not more than eight days; we could not, under the most
+favourable circumstances, advance more than seventy-five English miles;
+so that the results of a boat excursion would in nowise equal the risk
+of a second wintering, which must be avoided.</p>
+
+<p>Preparations were now made for departure. Opposite our anchoring-place
+we erected a heap of stones, in which we laid a document recording
+our discovery. We then weighed anchor and steamed in a north-easterly
+direction along the Fjord. A dense fog rose, and we had to find<span class="pagenum" id="Page_563">[563]</span> our
+way by the help of the compass, and keep a sharp look-out for icebergs.</p>
+
+<p>At noon we passed the narrow pass by the Devil’s Castle, and kept
+close to the land, with the intention, if possible, of anchoring in
+a fine bay called Eleanor Bay, from whence we could make farther
+investigation. As we rounded the south cape of the harbour, however,
+the water shallowed so suddenly that we grounded, and were set fast in
+the mud. During the night the tide reached its highest, and with some
+exertions we floated once more, and rode at anchor until the morning,
+when we steamed eastward.</p>
+
+<p>At the mouth of the Fjord we found the land-ice pretty dense, and
+between Cape Bennet and Bontekoe Island was such a strong barrier,
+that even close under the land we could with difficulty force our way
+through.</p>
+
+<p>At twenty minutes past eleven p.m., on the 14th of August, three
+nautical miles westward of our former anchorage, we anchored again, to
+take in necessary ballast and water.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th the Captain and Mr. Sengstacke climbed the cape, which was
+more than 2950 feet high, to inspect the position of the ice. To the
+east the pack-ice was loose enough to steer through, particularly to
+the east-north-east and south-east. Directly in the east the fields lay
+denser, but still streams of water could be seen. The horizon seemed
+strewn with ice. The whole of the coast to the south, as far as the eye
+could see, was covered with numberless icebergs, chiefly from Kaiser
+Franz-Joseph’s Fjord, which, however, never appeared upon the open sea.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_564">[564]</span></p>
+
+<p>The reason of this lies in the depth of the water, which, close under
+the shore and in the interior of the Fjord, is much greater than it
+is farther out. The same conditions are seen here as on the Norwegian
+coast, where a channel of more than 200 fathoms deep runs close along
+the shore, whilst but a little beyond rises the plateau of the North
+Sea from thirty to forty fathoms deep. Our soundings gave analogous
+results on the coast of Greenland. Under Shannon Island, only a few
+miles from land, there was a depth of more than 200 fathoms, whilst
+beyond there was only 100. The same showed itself near Cape Broer Ruys,
+and in the Fjord itself it reached the unheard of depth of more than
+500 fathoms. This is also the reason that in the Greenland seas no
+icebergs are met with far from land. To the south, according to Captain
+Hegemann’s report, they increase in numbers under the land, partly for
+the reason that there many glaciers discharge themselves straight into
+the sea, whilst farther to the north they descend only in the interior
+of Fjords.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_565">[565]</span></p>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER XVIII.<br>
+<span class="subhed">RETURN TO BREMERHAVEN.<a id="FNanchor_92" href="#Footnote_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a></span></h2></div>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p class="hangingindent">Repeated leakage of the boiler-tubes.—Becalmed.—Disappearance
+of the Coast.—Dense fog.—Voyage in the ice.—The Germania
+forces a passage through the ice.—The boiler finally refuses
+to work altogether.—Perceptible sound of breakers in the
+open sea.—Collision with an ice-bank.—We reach the open
+sea.—Joy over our speedy return homewards.—Passing by Iceland
+between the Faröe and Shetland Islands.—Near Heligoland.—No
+pilots.—No sail at the mouth of the Weser.—German
+men-of-war.—First knowledge of the German victories and of the
+fate of the Hansa.—Salute by the crew of the King William on
+the safe return of the Germania from the Arctic Sea.—Steamer
+and pilots.—Arrival at Bremerhaven on 11th of September, 1870.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>All was now ready for our return to Europe, and on the 16th of August
+our poor patched boiler was heated once more, but as soon as steam was
+up more pipes began to leak, and it was very doubtful whether it could
+be used at all. One more trial, however, must be made; in the meantime,
+as there was no wind, we rode at anchor. Calms seem to prevail here in
+the summer months. During our year of observation, from the beginning
+of 1869 to the end of July, 1870, we noted no less than 2435 hours of
+total calm, 750 hours of which fell in the summer months of June, July,
+and August, being the third part of the whole time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_566">[566]</span></p>
+
+<p>From this, one may judge how little can be done with a sailing-ship in
+so short a time.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, the 17th of August, dawned with a dense fog, which
+did not lift until noon, when we weighed anchor homeward-bound. We
+steamed due east, as the Captain intended if possible to force the
+barrier in that latitude, instead of going further south. After a few
+hours the boiler-pipes again began to leak, so as there was a calm and
+thick fog, we were obliged to anchor by a small field.</p>
+
+<p>The whole coast of Greenland was hidden from our sight, and we had seen
+the last of that land which for a whole year had been our home. The
+machinery was repaired in the night, though with but little hope of its
+durability, and we started once more.</p>
+
+<p>On the 18th the wind blew from the south, and the fog was thicker than
+ever, falling wet around us, so we preferred remaining by our field
+instead of advancing blindly into the pack.</p>
+
+<p>We remained pretty stationary, the astronomical observations at noon
+showing but a slight change in the position of our ice-field, though it
+had turned upon its axis ten points of the compass, and that with the
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>We had paid particular attention to the revolving of the ice-fields,
+and found that by far the greater number turned against the sun. Our
+observations were, however, not numerous enough to warrant our assuming
+this to be the rule.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 19th of August, as the fog was lighter, we
+steamed forward in an easterly direction, only a few floes at first
+drifting in our way. But, as might be expected, the ice became denser
+as we advanced into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_567">[567]</span> the pack, from time to time passing large fields
+between which lay broad channels of open water.</p>
+
+<p>At three a.m. we came to a chain of floes with a more watery appearance
+than the large fields we had passed during the night, which was
+therefore a pleasing sign that we were nearing the sea. After passing
+round these floes in a south-westerly direction, we came into open
+water for a short time longer. There was still a dense fog, and at
+four o’clock we struck upon a large field, and a row of thick-lying
+floes. After some attempts to break through these masses, we found
+ourselves entangled in a labyrinth of ice showing not the smallest
+opening to westward. Nothing but the manœuvring capabilities of the
+ship by means of the screw prevented us from being completely blocked
+in. But how in this thick fog could we retain this freedom of motion?
+One of those happy circumstances that can never be counted upon came
+to our assistance. At six o’clock the fog suddenly lifted, and at some
+miles to westward we could see an opening. We now steered along the
+edge of the ice-field, at the end of which to rather a broad extent lay
+closely packed floes, and beyond these to our great joy was again open
+water. We had no alternative but to force our way through: and with
+the whole of its steam power the Germania was run into the ice. The
+ship quivered and groaned, but the ice slowly gave way, and we glided
+into open water. The violent shock, however, had been too much for our
+invalid boiler: the pipes again began to leak, and put out the fire. We
+had just time to anchor, in a complete calm, when thick fog set in once
+more. Our position was 73° 17′ N. Lat. and 15° 41′ W. Long.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 21st of August, we made one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_568">[568]</span> more attempt to work
+our way out of the ice by steam. But in a very short time, the boiler
+refused its services; and the Captain found that all further progress
+by steam was at an end, and that the remainder of the voyage must be
+made under sail. At this time, however, there was so little wind, that
+the seemingly unmanageable ship soon drifted against a large floe,
+where we lay under all sail. It was still very foggy, but the sun shone
+through, so that we could take our observations, which gave us as usual
+S.S.W., with ten nautical miles for the day’s run; whilst, when nearer
+the coast, they placed us more towards the east.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we tried with a light southerly breeze to sail
+further, but again struck upon thick ice, and on account of the fog
+were obliged to anchor. In the night the south-east wind rose to a
+storm; the ice began to move, which greatly incommoded us, for several
+blocks were driven by the wind against our field, subjecting us to
+great pressure. Indeed, at about two a.m., some large floes threatened
+to crush us. We were obliged to run for it, and tried to pull round to
+the north-west point of our field, on the lee side of which we should
+find more protection from the advancing ice. After great exertions we
+succeeded in placing the ship in safety in a bend in the ice-field,
+where it was made fast with strong ropes, and the men then took a few
+hours’ rest. In the meanwhile the ice pushed itself closer together, so
+that we feared being blockaded in; and yet nothing remained for us but
+to wait patiently, and see what fate would bring us. To set sail in the
+storm and fog would have been still more dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the following day the atmosphere<span class="pagenum" id="Page_569">[569]</span> cleared a little,
+though it rained violently: the wind moderated. To the south and
+south-west there appeared to be much open water, to which, exactly to
+windward, led a small channel blocked by several ice floes; and it
+seemed almost impossible to tack against a fresh wind through this
+narrow pass. But it was our only chance of escaping from a blockade
+in the ice. We therefore set sail in the pouring rain, and made tacks
+for the channel. But it was not till after much manœuvring that we
+succeeded in avoiding the floating blocks, and clearing it.</p>
+
+<p>We had now so much sea-room that for a quarter of an hour we were able
+to keep on one tack; and on either side, to the east as well as to
+the west, the ice lay completely closed. Towards evening we could go
+no further either to the south or south-west, and open water was only
+to be seen in the direction we had come from. The violent south and
+south-east wind, which outside had no doubt raged like a storm, had
+driven the ice so together that the Captain felt convinced with such a
+wind there could be no getting clear. As it was quite dark, we anchored
+by a field to wait for clear weather and a change of wind. During the
+night it sometimes rained violently, but it blew more from the east,
+and the rising barometer gave us expectations of better weather.</p>
+
+<p>The following day we again tried to go a little further by steering
+along the field to the north-east, but here, too, as we might have
+expected, the ice was closed; so on account of a fog which had come up
+with the east wind, we dropped anchor once more.</p>
+
+<p>According to the log-reckoning our position was 73° 4′ N. and 15° 32′
+W., but the current had drifted us<span class="pagenum" id="Page_570">[570]</span> a little to the south. The icy cold
+of the water (the temperature was near freezing-point) and the work of
+the last few days had exhausted the men, and as we had to be ready any
+moment in case our ship should be threatened by the ice, no scientific
+work could be undertaken. Soundings, too, had to be given up. In the
+face of new difficulties the men required some rest.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening the fog drew off; the wind blew north-east, with a
+rising barometer. This was the first time since our departure from the
+coast that we had had a clear horizon, and an open field of view around
+us. Only to the south and south-east was there navigable water; in
+every other direction the ice was closely packed.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th of August, at two a.m., we set sail with as favourable a
+breeze from the north-north-east as we could possibly wish for, and
+with a confident hope of being able to break through the belt of ice.
+We worked our way south, leisurely making tacks to the west, according
+to the position of the ice, which lay so thick that we had to force our
+way. To the east still no opening; we must go still further south. A
+glorious breeze came to our assistance, and in five or six knots all
+icy difficulties were victoriously overcome. At three p.m. the Germania
+met a string of floes which showed unmistakable signs of coming from
+the ocean, and we could distinctly hear the sound of breakers. Our
+joy was indescribable, and we thought nothing of running into the icy
+labyrinth at a speed of seven knots. The ship groaned and quivered from
+the force of the pressure, and the stern-post received a shock, that
+for a moment the captain feared for the timbers; but the Germania bore
+it bravely. Driven by the powerful pressure of the wind she bounded
+through,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_571">[571]</span> and in a short time we glided into open water, where the
+long-missed swell of the Atlantic greeted us. What cared we now for
+the threatening white fog which surrounded us in thick masses, or
+for the ice-blocks we met, or even for the storms that still awaited
+us? We were in open water, had plenty of sea-room, and that is all a
+sailor needs. “Breakers ahead!” sounded from the bow. The ship was
+running upon an ice-bank lying almost before us, and only by the
+prompt watchfulness of the man at the wheel, who threw the helm hard
+a-starboard, did we avoid running aground. We now steered north-west,
+so as to find a more open spot to windward over the starboard bow by
+which to clear the ice.</p>
+
+<p>A heavy sea raised by the last storm met us, setting all the ice-blocks
+through which the ship had to pass in dangerous motion. But all went
+well.</p>
+
+<p>An hour more, and the last bit of ice had disappeared in the fog.
+In a south-easterly course we now made straight for the Weser. “My
+watch is over!” was a saying of old Scoresby’s, when he was free of
+the Greenland ice, and found himself in open sea. “My watch is over!”
+exclaimed Captain Koldewey to Mr. Sengstacke, as he retired to his
+cabin with a feeling of security that he had not enjoyed for many a day.</p>
+
+<p>Now we were going towards our dear home, and nothing stood in the
+way of our hope of soon reaching it. For the first time a German
+expedition, under the auspices of the black, white, and red flag,
+had visited, for a scientific object, the least known region of the
+globe, and had there sought to solve some scientific problems; we
+might certainly maintain, not quite without success. The North Pole
+we had not certainly discovered, and the secret of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_572">[572]</span> real Polar
+basin had remained sealed. But we had been allowed, by observation and
+investigation of the principles of natural science and navigation,
+to contribute no inconsiderable share of knowledge, both of the laws
+and the principal phenomena of the Arctic world, so that the real
+North Pole question was at any rate theoretically nearer its solution.
+Conscious of this, we comforted ourselves for the many hopes left
+unfulfilled, and the many objects unattained.</p>
+
+<p>There remain but a few words to be said regarding our return voyage.
+Captain Koldewey chose the course past Iceland, between the Faröe and
+Shetland Isles, in order to take some soundings at the confluence of
+the Gulf-stream and the Arctic current, as well as some measurements of
+temperature. But stormy weather, with but slight interruption, lasted
+almost to the Weser, and hindered the work so much, that the result was
+very indifferent.</p>
+
+<p>On the 10th of September we were a few miles from Heligoland. A heavy
+storm blew from the south-west, but in the evening shifted to the
+north-west, enabling us to run into shore. At daybreak, though we
+had seen no pilot, we recognized Langerooge, and steered along the
+South-wall to the mouth of the Weser. No sign of a ship! The Weser
+seemed to have died out. Where are the pilots hidden? Are they lying
+<i>perdu</i> on account of yesterday’s storm? Well, then, we must
+run into the Weser without them; the wind is favourable, the weather
+clear, the outer buoy will be easy to find; there is the church-tower
+of Wangerooge. Suspecting nothing, we steered on; the tower bears
+S.S.W., south-west by south, south-west, but no buoy in sight. The
+Captain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_573">[573]</span> and steersman look at each other in astonishment. Can we have
+been so mistaken and out of our reckoning? But no! That is certainly
+Wangerooge; the depth of water agrees, our compass is correct. No doubt
+about it, we are in the Weser; something unusual must have happened!
+Still no sail in sight! But what is that? Yonder are the roads. There
+are several large vessels under steam; they at least can give us some
+information. So we make for them. We saluted the German flag, and soon
+the cry was heard, “War, war with France; Napoleon is prisoner! France
+has declared a Republic; our armies are before Paris!” And then, “Hansa
+destroyed in the ice, crew saved.” We thought we were dreaming, and
+stood stiff with astonishment at such grand and heart-stirring news.
+Not until a loud hurrah for “King William” sounded from a hundred
+German throats did we regain our speech, and answer with another
+“Hurrah!”</p>
+
+<p>Captain-Lieutenant Stenzel came on board, and welcomed us to German
+soil, and from him we learnt somewhat more connectedly the events of
+the last few weeks. From the fleet we procured a tug and pilot for the
+Weser, and on the 11th of September, at six p.m., we ran safely into
+Bremerhaven, where the next morning we had the pleasure of shaking
+hands with some gentlemen of the Bremer Committee, at the head of which
+was Mr. A. G. Mosle, as well as some of our comrades of the Hansa.</p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_574">[574]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="smaller">CONCLUSION.</h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Let us now sum up the results of the second German Arctic Expedition,
+in reference to the light thrown upon the Arctic question by the voyage
+of the Germania and Hansa:—</p>
+
+<p>1. Uninterrupted, open coast-water, along the coast of East Greenland
+has been proved not to exist; it has been shown that the coast-water
+is dependent upon local circumstances, and that the ice-current
+brings down its masses, even when the ice is at its loosest, to every
+projecting point of the coast.</p>
+
+<p>2. East Greenland has been proved not to form a suitable basis for
+reaching the North Pole, even setting aside the possibility of reaching
+a higher latitude by ship along the coast, in favourable years.</p>
+
+<p>3. On the other hand, by inquiries into the geology, natural history,
+and climate of the country itself, and by the investigation of the
+large Fjords and their extent north and south, a new basis for
+promoting further Arctic discoveries has been created, promising rich
+results which may eventually materially assist in solving the Arctic
+problem; more so than any advance on the high sea could have done.</p>
+
+<p>4. No important advance into the ice, nor any considerable scientific
+result essentially belonging to the land is to be reckoned upon without
+the firm support of the coast; and without wintering and erecting
+stations for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_575">[575]</span> observation, no thorough investigation of the Arctic
+regions is possible. This last point is further confirmed by the
+results of the latest Arctic Expedition, the leading features of which
+are as follows:—</p>
+
+<p>Even whilst we were in Greenland, Kara Straits, between Nova Zembla
+and Continental Russia, which is so often impassable from the ice, was
+traversed by Norwegian fishermen; indeed, in the year 1870, the whole
+of Nova Zembla was sailed round, and the sea both to the north and east
+of the island found to be perfectly navigable. This circumstance, in
+connexion with the observed proportionately high surface temperature of
+the sea, suggested the belief that the easiest way of advancing to the
+north, or even of reaching the Pole itself, might be through Barents’
+Sea. As is already known, Lieutenant Weyprecht and First-Lieutenant
+Payer followed this course, and on the 1st of September, 1871, reached
+(in 78° 43′ N. Lat.) the meridian of 42° 30′ E., a point comparatively
+remote in this region, although not the first or only instance of the
+kind. The sea, too, as far as 59° E. Long., and in almost the same
+latitude, was quite free from ice.</p>
+
+<p>The ice towards the north is declared to be lighter and looser, and the
+surface temperature of the sea more often between 39° and 41° Fahr.
+From these circumstances, combined with the steady motion of the Polar
+ice, caused by the large ice-current running along the coast of East
+Greenland, the conclusion was at once drawn by Lieutenant Weyprecht
+that this might probably be the best road to the North Pole, and that
+this open sea might be connected with the so-called Polynia of the
+Russians. At Vienna, on the 7th of December, 1871, in a statement
+made before the Imperial Academy of Science,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_576">[576]</span> Weyprecht explained his
+reasons more fully. Although these reasonings were not based upon
+altogether correct suppositions, it is true, as pointed out by Dove,
+that the distribution of the Polar ice does without doubt create
+variations in the state of the temperature in different years (and
+that irrespective of any particular spot in the Arctic territory).
+The zealous endeavours of Payer and Weyprecht, however, succeeded in
+calling into existence, in 1872, a still larger Austrian expedition.</p>
+
+<p>Oddly enough, in spite of authentic accounts of the navigability of the
+Arctic Sea, as far as the highest latitude, the project of an Arctic
+expedition on the basis of the Barents’ Sea, was dropped, and the
+exploration of the Siberian coast and the unknown waters of the north
+of Siberia was undertaken. To me this seems to imply that in Austria,
+too, they could not quite trust to the existence of an open Arctic sea,
+as they evidently laid more stress upon the desirability of following
+the coast, and promised themselves richer scientific results than they
+could ever expect from advancing on the high sea.</p>
+
+<p>The Austrian Expedition started in the summer of 1872; but, instead
+of finding an open and easily navigable sea, as in the previous year,
+there were masses of thick ice near Nova Zembla, so that in spite of
+steam power, up to the 18th of August they had advanced no further
+than Cape Nassau, though they hoped for more favourable opportunities
+about the beginning of September. At the same time, some Norwegian
+fishermen found the sea perfectly free from ice further westwards;
+the much-talked-of Wiche’s, or King Charles’s Land, or Weiche Land
+(whichever it is called), was even reached, and its extent decided<span class="pagenum" id="Page_577">[577]</span>
+within a fraction;<a id="FNanchor_93" href="#Footnote_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> whilst again to the north of Spitzbergen so
+much ice was met with by the Swedish Expedition, that they could not
+even reach Parry Island, where they had intended wintering, so as to
+be ready in the early spring for the sledge journeys, by which they
+proposed to advance to the Pole. And, although this sea was generally
+free from ice as far as 81° N.L., the expedition was forced to pass
+the winter in Mossel Bay, and in the spring attempted vainly to reach
+a higher latitude by crossing the sea-ice with sledges. They did not
+get beyond Parry Island, as the state of the drift-ice (probably too
+uneven and lumpy) prevented them. All exploration had to be confined to
+Spitzbergen during the winter, as well as during the sledge-journeys,
+by which the land ice to the north-east of the country was crossed;
+adding a valuable amount of knowledge regarding the physical condition
+of Arctic countries.</p>
+
+<p>The above implied variation in the position and extent of the Arctic
+ice was particularly proved in the year 1872, by the different voyages
+undertaken, and also by the Swedish Expedition; of the Austrian we
+have no further news. The advance on the high sea led to no other
+result than that of proving the changeableness of the ice-border, and
+to leisurely-made observations of temperature and soundings; which,
+however important and useful in themselves, without the knowledge of
+the extent of the surrounding country and coast and their climate, can
+only serve to assist in forming rough conjectures as to the physical
+condition of the Pole and its vicinity.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_578">[578]</span> Even by the reaching of King
+Charles’s Land by the Norwegians no new fact is established, except
+that, what some hundreds of years ago was looked upon as a continent,
+consists only of a few islands. No examination of the land itself was
+made, and nothing but an entire winter passed there will ever supply us
+with any important facts concerning it.</p>
+
+<p>The American Expedition, a part of the crew of which were saved on an
+ice-floe, brings to light the most facts. Their vessel, the Polaris,
+reached the coast of Greenland through Smith Sound, penetrating to the
+highest Latitude ever yet attained by any ship, namely, 82° 16′. It was
+doubtless the most northerly point of Greenland. The supposition that
+Grinnell Land extends as far as 83° N. was confirmed, and the existence
+of musk-oxen and a rich Fauna up to 82° N. of Greenland was proved. At
+the same time Kane and Hayes’ illusion of an open Arctic Sea, which
+proved to be nothing but the entrance of a channel through which ran a
+strong current, was thoroughly dispelled.</p>
+
+<p>This voyage of the Polaris, combined with the results obtained by the
+German Expedition, shows in a striking manner that the investigation
+of Greenland, as the country stretching nearest to the Pole—along
+the coast of which one can penetrate to the north on two different
+meridians—and where such an extensive field offers for scientific
+research, supplies by far the best field for investigating the
+geographical and physical condition of Arctic regions, and consequently
+the real solution of the Arctic question.</p>
+
+<p>In a pamphlet issued by “The Royal Geographical<span class="pagenum" id="Page_579">[579]</span> Society” (p. 10), it
+is said:—“The unknown region covers a surface of more than a million
+of English square miles. It is impossible that one single expedition
+could ever undertake the investigation of the whole of this territory,
+and it is therefore necessary to choose that part which contains the
+three chief requirements: these are—1, the certainty of exploring a
+country up to this time unknown, and of some considerable extent; 2,
+the prospect of important discoveries in the different branches of
+science; 3, the best security for a safe return. These leading features
+can only be secured in a neighbourhood where there is a large extent
+of coast-line; for the most important discoveries are to be expected
+chiefly on land or near it.”</p>
+
+<p>All this is as suitable for East Greenland, as for West Greenland, and
+there can be no reason why the discoveries in East Greenland under the
+German Flag should not be continued. It seems to me a matter of honour
+for the German nation, that the further investigation of the large
+Fjord discovered by us should not be left to other nations, but that it
+should garner into itself the seed sown with so much trouble.</p>
+
+<p>An English Expedition to West Greenland through Smith Sound, and a
+German one to East Greenland starting at the same time would, with
+our present experience and means of assistance, certainly lead to the
+exploration of a considerable extent of the unknown Polar area, and
+bring home a rich result of scientific discoveries in all branches that
+could not be obtained in any other way.</p>
+
+<p>May the present work contribute to reawaken interest<span class="pagenum" id="Page_580">[580]</span> in Arctic
+explorations, and give a spur to a new Expedition, by which the German
+Flag may have its due share in all scientific discoveries in the North
+Polar region. To take part in the achievement of this object, is my
+greatest desire.</p>
+
+<p class="smcap r2 p-min">Karl Koldewey.</p>
+
+<p class="p-min"><span class="smcap">Hamburg</span>, Oct. 1873.</p>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5801_map" style="max-width: 373px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5801_map.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p-min xs center">London, Sampson Low, Marston &amp; C<sup>o</sup>.&emsp;&emsp;Lith. P. A. Brockhaus, Leipzig.</p>
+     <p class="p0 center">CHART</p>
+     <p class="p0 center">of the Northern Portion of</p>
+     <p class="p0 lg center">EAST-GREENLAND,</p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">surveyed on the Sledge journey<br>
+from 24<sup>th</sup> March to 27<sup>th</sup> April 1870.</p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center"><i>Scale 1:1,700,000</i></p>
+     <p class="p1 sm center"><i>Outward journey</i></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center"><i>Return</i></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center"><i>Encampments</i></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center"><i>astronomically determined Points</i></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center"><i>Soundings</i></p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center"><i>The depths are given in English<br>fathoms.</i></p>
+   </div>
+
+  <div class="figcenter" id="p5802_map" style="max-width: 602px">
+    <img
+    class="p1"   
+    src="images/p5802_map.jpg"
+     alt="">
+     <p class="p0 sm center">VOYAGES <span class="allsmcap">AND</span> DISCOVERIES<br>
+of the second<br>GERMAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION<br>in the years 1869 and 1870.</p>
+     <p class="p0 sm center">According to the original Surveys<br>
+designed and executed with the aid of older Charts<br>by<br>W. REINERT.</p>
+   </div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_581">[581]</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="lg">APPENDIX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center smaller">DESCRIPTION OF THE ESQUIMAUX IMPLEMENTS</p>
+
+<p class="center smaller"><i>Figured on plates after p. <a href="#Page_516">516</a>.</i></p>
+
+
+<p>1. Representation of a human figure in wood. This figure was found in
+a grave on Clavering Island, near Cape Mary. The shape and small size
+of this grave clearly indicated that of an infant. The absence of a
+skeleton did not surprise us, inasmuch as the bones of an infant are
+much more easily destructible than those of an adult. We concluded,
+therefore, that this figure was a child’s toy. Two similar figures,
+roughly carved in wood, were found by Graah on Sneedorff’s Island.
+They remind one forcibly of those discovered by Behring amongst the
+savages of the North-West coast of America, where they are held as
+idols, although (says Graah) they very probably, as in Greenland, are
+used simply as children’s toys. This opinion is also confirmed by the
+consideration of the religious views of the Esquimaux. The present
+fragment was originally more clearly distinguishable than now, as the
+softer projecting parts of the wood have somewhat suffered.</p>
+
+<p>2. A wooden figure of some animal found among the Esquimaux huts on
+Klein-Pendulum. This may also have been a toy, and seems to be the
+imitation of a fox or perhaps an ermine.</p>
+
+<p>3. This is also the representation of some animal, though what species
+was in the carver’s mind it is difficult to say.</p>
+
+<p>4. <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>. A sledge-bone, i. e. a piece of bone
+which the Esquimaux fasten under the slides in place of our usual
+iron tires. We can see still the wooden pegs with which the fastening
+was accomplished. We see here also the very beautiful bores by which,
+instead of saws, the Esquimaux cut the bones and teeth into pieces. The
+finely-bored circular holes are plainly to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>5. <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>. A so-called “woman’s knife” of reddish slate. We
+found<span class="pagenum" id="Page_582">[582]</span> many of these in the southern parts. To the smaller and rougher
+side a handle of wood or bone was attached, and fastened by means of
+the holes bored in it. The knife served the women chiefly for scraping
+the fat off the hides.</p>
+
+<p>6–9. Harpoon sockets of walrus teeth, with stone heads. The harpoon
+is the principal weapon of the Esquimaux. At the pointed end of the
+wooden shaft, which is generally made of a piece of walrus-tooth,
+the harpoon-head (siatko) is fixed in a grove made in the stump. It
+is attached by means of a cord, the end of which is fastened through
+a hole, and it is held taut to the middle of the shaft by a simple
+contrivance. At the end a still sharper stone-head is fitted; such a
+harpoon is capable of being thrown into a seal or walrus. This being
+done, the head is easily loosened from the shaft, so soon as the bight
+of the line is detached by a slight jerk of the free end, provided
+only it be held tight in the hunter’s hand, or it is furnished with an
+inflated bladder.</p>
+
+<p>10. Upper portion of a spear-head of walrus tooth, found on the shore
+of Klein-Pendulum.</p>
+
+<p>11. Drawing of a perfect spear, after Kane.</p>
+
+<p>12. One half of a Kajak rudder, found near Cape Borlase Warren.</p>
+
+<p>13. A stick suitable for various purposes. It is not improbable that it
+was a kind of bat,<a id="FNanchor_94" href="#Footnote_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> used by the Esquimaux lads to play with.</p>
+
+<p>14. Handle for a dagger or similar implement (or weapon), found on
+Klein-Pendulum. It is very neatly wrought. We see the holes through
+which the thongs were passed, by means of which the head of bone, or
+tooth, was fastened to the handle.</p>
+
+<p>15. Tusk of a bear, pierced at the root. Such pierced teeth were worn
+by the Esquimaux as ornaments, or possibly occasionally as amulets.<a id="FNanchor_95" href="#Footnote_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a></p>
+
+<p>16. An object of walrus tooth, the purport of which is unknown, and
+which is only depicted here in order to show the very exact and elegant
+workmanship.</p>
+
+<p>17. <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>. Similar object, also of walrus tooth.</p>
+
+<p>18. An instrument of bone which probably, fastened to a shaft, served
+as a hunting-weapon, or had some other purpose now unknown.</p>
+
+<p>19. Needle made of bone, for sewing the Kajaks.</p>
+
+<p>20. Iron knife found in an Esquimaux hut on Klein-Pendulum. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_583">[583]</span> handle
+is of wood and grooved, and the iron blade is inserted, and then is
+fastened by means of thongs twisted round it.</p>
+
+<p>A perfectly similar handle was found in another place, but without any
+iron in it.</p>
+
+<p>This is the only instance of our finding iron material in North-East
+Greenland. Still such iron instruments must always have been very
+scarce. Iron is not anywhere found in the land in the form of ore, but
+it is real wrought iron imported.</p>
+
+<p>As to its origin, two hypotheses only present themselves. Either
+the natives obtain it through exchange with the inhabitants of the
+southern districts, and these similarly obtain it from the west coast,
+in traffic, which, though not impossible, seems to us still very
+improbable;<a id="FNanchor_96" href="#Footnote_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a> or else it is a piece of the iron which Clavering,
+in 1823, presented to the natives in the form of knives and other
+implements.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center xs p2">THE END.</p>
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_585">[585]</span></p>
+
+<h2>INDEX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Akkia Island,
+    <a href="#Page_241">241</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Alluk Island,
+    <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Angmaksätten (herrings),
+    <a href="#Page_192">192–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Anorak,
+    <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Arctic Basin,
+    <a href="#Page_64">64–65</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Circle,
+    <a href="#Page_64">64</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_277">277</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_484">484</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_572">572</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Circle, Crossing the,
+    <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Climate,
+    <a href="#Page_440">440–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Current,
+    <a href="#Page_51">51</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_65">65</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_67">67</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Day,
+    <a href="#Page_493">493</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Night,
+    <a href="#Page_371">371</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_386">386</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Open Sea,
+    <a href="#Page_351">351–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_436">436</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_531">531</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Sea, Boundary of,
+    <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Summer,
+    <a href="#Page_502">502</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Winter,
+    <a href="#Page_392">392–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Ardencaple Bay and Inlet,
+    <a href="#Page_318">318–320</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_434">434</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_443">443</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_446">446</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_449">449–50</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_458">458–59</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_461">461–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_502">502</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Arsut,
+    <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_202">202</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Aurora Borealis,
+    <a href="#Page_98">98</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_122">122</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_140">140</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_307">307</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_369">369</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_375">375</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_380">380</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_402">402</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Aurora harbour,
+    <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Bardsen, Ivar,
+    <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Barendt’s Sea,
+    <a href="#Page_575">575–6</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bass Rock,
+    <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bastian’s Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_458">458</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_503">503</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bears,
+    <a href="#Page_78">78</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_97">97–99</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_121">121–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_124">124</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_144">144</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_147">147</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_266">266–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_314">314</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_329">329–30</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_348">348–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_356">356</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_395">395–397</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_429">429–30</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_442">442</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_465">465–471</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_504">504</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Beer, and bread-making,
+    <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Beerenberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Behring’s Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_64">64</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Benedictine nunnery,
+    <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bennet Island,
+    <a href="#Page_546">546–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_550">550</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Peninsula,
+    <a href="#Page_552">552</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bessel Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_429">429</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Black Wall, the,
+    <a href="#Page_462">462–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Blandings,
+    <a href="#Page_196">196</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Boilers, Leakage of,
+    <a href="#Page_533">533</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_538">538</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_562">562</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_565">565–567</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bontekoe Island,
+    <a href="#Page_544">544</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_563">563</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Börgen, Dr., his adventure with a bear,
+    <a href="#Page_407">407–411</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Botany,
+    <a href="#Page_204">204</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_209">209</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_216">216</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_245">245</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_343">343–347</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_464">464</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_475">475–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_499">499</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_502">502</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_518">518–524</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_530">530</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_534">534</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_536">536</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_540">540–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_545">545</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_558">558</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_562">562</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Brandenburg Gate,
+    <a href="#Page_95">95</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_96">96</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Brattelid,
+    <a href="#Page_235">235–6</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Breakers ahead,
+    <a href="#Page_571">571</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bremen,
+    <a href="#Page_135">135</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_153">153</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Bremerhaven,
+    <a href="#Page_266">266</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_573">573</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Butterflies,
+    <a href="#Page_484">484</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_540">540</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Cairn Point,
+    <a href="#Page_376">376</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Harbour,
+    <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Canoes,
+    <a href="#Page_193">193</a>. <i>See</i> <a href="#Kajak">Kajak</a>, <a href="#Umiaks">Umiak</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Cape Barclay,
+    <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Bennet,
+    <a href="#Page_478">478</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_547">547</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_563">563</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Berlin,
+    <a href="#Page_315">315</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_323">323</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_450">450</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_452">452</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Bismarck,
+    <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Börgen,
+    <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Borlase Warren,
+    <a href="#Page_305">305</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_307">307</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_356">356–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_367">367</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Bremen,
+    <a href="#Page_503">503</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Broer Ruys,
+    <a href="#Page_82">82</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_476">476</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_543">543</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_564">564</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Buchholz,
+    <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Copeland,
+    <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Dan,
+    <a href="#Page_123">123</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_136">136</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Desbrowe,
+    <a href="#Page_290">290–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_516">516</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Discord,
+    <a href="#Page_163">163–4</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Egede,
+    <a href="#Page_192">192</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_203">203–4</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Farewell,
+    <a href="#Page_65">65</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_171">171–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_181">181–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_191">191</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_239">239</a></li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Franklin,
+    <a href="#Page_546">546–7</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Giesecke,
+    <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Gladstone,
+    <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Hamburg,
+    <a href="#Page_315">315–16</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_322">322</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_452">452</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_477">477</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Heer,
+    <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Heligoland,
+    <a href="#Page_434">434</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Hvidtfeldt,
+    <a href="#Page_166">166–7</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Igikait,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— James,
+    <a href="#Page_82">82–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Kaksimiut,
+    <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Karl Ritter,
+    <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Klinkerflues,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Löwenörn,
+    <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Mary,
+    <a href="#Page_357">357</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_520">520–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_581">581</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Moesting,
+    <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Moltke,
+    <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Nassau,
+    <a href="#Page_576">576</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Oswald Heer,
+    <a href="#Page_428">428–9</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Pansch,
+    <a href="#Page_533">533</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Peebach,
+    <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Peschel,
+    <a href="#Page_431">431</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_440">440</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Philip Broke,
+    <a href="#Page_282">282</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_286">286–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_289">289</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_291">291</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_295">295</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_300">300</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_476">476</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_496">496</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_516">516</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_530">530–1</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Steenbille,
+    <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Vallöe,
+    <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Wymond,
+    <a href="#Page_518">518</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Wynn,
+    <a href="#Page_280">280–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_335">335</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_351">351–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_369">369</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_481">481</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_540">540</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Chalk Alps (Munich),
+    <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Christian IV. Island,
+    <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Christmas,
+    <a href="#Page_124">124–126</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_382">382</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_387">387–390</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Trees,
+    <a href="#Page_125">125</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_387">387–389</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Church Point,
+    <a href="#Page_488">488</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Clavering, Captain,
+    <a href="#Page_278">278</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_282">282–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_363">363</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_370">370</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_379">379</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_428">428–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_513">513</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_515">515–16</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_524">524</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_526">526</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_546">546</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Island,
+    <a href="#Page_351">351</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_354">354</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_357">357</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_361">361</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_363">363</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_490">490</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_520">520</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_546">546</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_557">557</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_313">313</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_315">315</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_376">376</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_380">380</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_451">451</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_463">463</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_503">503</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_506">506</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_540">540</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Copenhagen,
+    <a href="#Page_183">183</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Copenhagen, Archæological Society of,
+    <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Corona,
+    <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Csardas (Hungarian Dance),
+    <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Cyclopian Walls,
+    <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Damp, Effects of,
+    <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Dan Island,
+    <a href="#Page_138">138–9</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Danes,
+    <a href="#Page_199">199–201</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_209">209–10</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_222">222</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_224">224</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_228">228</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_239">239</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_249">249–50</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Davis’ Sound,
+    <a href="#Page_432">432</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_543">543</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_64">64–5</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_469">469</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_543">543</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Devil’s Cape,
+    <a href="#Page_432">432–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_439">439</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2" id="Castle">Castle, the,
+    <a href="#Page_552">552</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_554">554</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_563">563</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Thumb, the,
+    <a href="#Page_95">95</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Doggerbank, the,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1" id="Dolphins">Dolphins,
+    <a href="#Page_42">42–44</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Domberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_317">317–18</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Dove Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_433">433</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Dredging, with nets,
+    <a href="#Page_32">32</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_53">53</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_87">87</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_90">90</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_93">93</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_350">350–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_545">545</a></li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Drontheim,
+    <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Dufferin, Lord,
+    <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">East Cape,
+    <a href="#Page_542">542</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">East Greenland, open coast water does not exist,
+    <a href="#Page_574">574</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">not a proper basis for reaching the North Pole, <i>ib.</i></li>
+
+  <li class="i1">East Island,
+    <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Easter,
+    <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Egede, Hans,
+    <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Egede’s Land,
+    <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Eiger, the (Switzerland),
+    <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Eleanor Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_558">558</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_563">563</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1" id="Emperor">Emperor Francis Joseph’s Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_474">474</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_550">550</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_561">561–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Erick Island,
+    <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Rauda,
+    <a href="#Page_228">228</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Erzgebirge, the, and Harz,
+    <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Esquimaux (huts, graves, implements, manners and customs, remains),
+    <a href="#Page_174">174</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_178">178–225</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_287">287</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_291">291</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_307">307</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_347">347</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_353">353</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_363">363</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_379">379</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_431">431</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_487">487</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_508">508</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_528">528</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">descriptions of plates,
+    <a href="#Page_581">581–583</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">—— Krätze, what,
+    <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Eutin,
+    <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Expedition, Plan of,
+    <a href="#Page_1">1–24</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">fitting out, crews, &amp;c.,
+    <a href="#Page_24">24–27</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Expeditions, American,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Austrian,
+    <a href="#Page_576">576–7</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">English,
+    <a href="#Page_515">515</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">German,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Swedish,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Falschen Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_323">323</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Faröe Island,
+    <a href="#Page_572">572</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fata Morgana,
+    <a href="#Page_416">416</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fauna,
+    <a href="#Page_484">484</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_558">558</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fire on board the Germania,
+    <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fishermen, Dutch,
+    <a href="#Page_33">33–35</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Moravian,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Norwegian,
+    <a href="#Page_575">575</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fishes,
+    <a href="#Page_192">192</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fiskernäss,
+    <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Flache Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_305">305</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_351">351–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_367">367</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_402">402</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_518">518</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_540">540</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fligely Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_316">316</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_318">318</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_320">320</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_363">363</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_450">450</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_452">452</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_455">455</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_462">462</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_503">503</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Sound,
+    <a href="#Page_456">456</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Flower-basket, the,
+    <a href="#Page_86">86–87</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fogs,
+    <a href="#Page_49">49</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_57">57–8</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_69">69</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_99">99</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_275">275</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_281">281</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_566">566–570</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fossils,
+    <a href="#Page_504">504</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Foxes,
+    <a href="#Page_99">99</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_124">124</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_137">137</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_290">290</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_349">349</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_442">442</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_472">472–474</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Franco-German War,
+    <a href="#Page_240">240</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">tidings of,
+    <a href="#Page_264">264</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_573">573</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Franklin Peninsula,
+    <a href="#Page_548">548</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Fredericia (Schleswig),
+    <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Frederickshaab,
+    <a href="#Page_247">247</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_256">256–258</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Freeden Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_288">288</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Friedrichsthal,
+    <a href="#Page_142">142</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_165">165</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_169">169</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_172">172</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_181">181–204</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_207">207</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_211">211</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_215">215–16</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Frost-bites,
+    <a href="#Page_112">112</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_117">117</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_418">418</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Gael Hamkes Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_280">280</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_299">299</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_306">306–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_310">310</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_342">342–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_354">354–356</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_517">517</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_520">520</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_543">543</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Gammelgard,
+    <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Geology,
+    <a href="#Page_167">167</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_215">215</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_289">289</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_294">294</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_306">306</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_315">315–317</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_355">355</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_358">358</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_361">361</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_366">366</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_428">428–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_431">431–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_435">435</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_444">444</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_461">461</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_495">495</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_535">535</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Germania, the, winters,
+    <a href="#Page_333">333–339</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Germania Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Harbour,
+    <a href="#Page_325">325</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Germaniaberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_325">325</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_343">343</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_388">388</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_395">395</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_400">400</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_491">491</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_523">523</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_529">529</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_539">539</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Glaciers,
+    <a href="#Page_133">133</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_138">138</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_140">140</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_144">144</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_215">215</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_247">247</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_255">255</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_260">260</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_265">265</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_363">363–366</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_378">378</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_434">434</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_488">488–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_539">539</a></li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Glasgow Island,
+    <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Gnadau (Magdeburg),
+    <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Gnats,
+    <a href="#Page_241">241–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Good Friday,
+    <a href="#Page_437">437</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_491">491</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Greenland, Life in,
+    <a href="#Page_179">179–182</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_223">223</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_225">225–227</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Music, &amp;c.,
+    <a href="#Page_190">190</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_225">225–227</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Work,
+    <a href="#Page_190">190</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Worship,
+    <a href="#Page_212">212</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Grinnell Land,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Griper Roads,
+    <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Grossglockner,
+    <a href="#Page_365">365</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Gulf Stream, the,
+    <a href="#Page_38">38</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_51">51</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Halloway Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hamburg,
+    <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hansa, Voyage of,
+    <a href="#Page_80">80–115</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Return of Crew,
+    <a href="#Page_116">116–261</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hansa Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Haven,
+    <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Harefield, the,
+    <a href="#Page_221">221</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_226">226</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hares,
+    <a href="#Page_483">483</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_525">525</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Härjulfsnäs,
+    <a href="#Page_196">196</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Harpoons,
+    <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hasenberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_325">325–327</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_345">345</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_400">400–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_404">404</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_426">426</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hayes,
+    <a href="#Page_474">474</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Haystack, Mount,
+    <a href="#Page_495">495</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Peninsula,
+    <a href="#Page_428">428–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hefersteinberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492–494</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Heligoland,
+    <a href="#Page_572">572</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Helsingör,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Herring Fishery,
+    <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Herrnhuter Fraternity,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hochstetter’s Promontory,
+    <a href="#Page_319">319</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_426">426–428</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hollanderöe,
+    <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Horrors, Bay of,
+    <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hühnerberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_487">487–8</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Hull,
+    <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Ice sky,
+    <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Blink,
+    <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Foot,
+    <a href="#Page_487">487</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Icebergs,
+    <a href="#Page_123">123</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_130">130</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_132">132</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_138">138–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_143">143</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_146">146</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_151">151</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_431">431</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_434">434</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_547">547</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_561">561</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_563">563</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Iceland,
+    <a href="#Page_65">65</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_135">135–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_572">572</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Igalliko,
+    <a href="#Page_228">228–238</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Fjord (Eimar),
+    <a href="#Page_228">228</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_235">235</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_238">238–9</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Igalorsoeitsiak,
+    <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Igdlopait,
+    <a href="#Page_182">182</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_205">205–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_211">211</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_215">215–217</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Igikait,
+    <a href="#Page_196">196–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Illuidlek,
+    <a href="#Page_155">155–157</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_162">162</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_164">164</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Isersarnak, the,
+    <a href="#Page_211">211</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Island of the World,
+    <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Ivikät,
+    <a href="#Page_210">210–11</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Ivimiut,
+    <a href="#Page_163">163–4</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Jackson Island,
+    <a href="#Page_540">540</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Jan Mayen,
+    <a href="#Page_52">52</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_54">54–56</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Jordan Hill,
+    <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Island,
+    <a href="#Page_523">523</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Julianeshaab,
+    <a href="#Page_150">150</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_182">182</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_209">209</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_216">216–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_219">219</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_241">241–245</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_251">251–254</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Jvigtuk,
+    <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Kaiser Franz-Joseph’s Fjord. <i>See</i> <a href="#Emperor">Emperor Francis Joseph’s Fjord.</a></li>
+
+  <li class="i1" id="Kajak">Kajaks,
+    <a href="#Page_193">193–195</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_200">200</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_216">216</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_248">248–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_259">259–60</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kajalik,
+    <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kakorlok Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_228">228–9</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kaksiarsuk,
+    <a href="#Page_229">229</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kaksimiut,
+    <a href="#Page_247">247–249</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_251">251</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_253">253–4</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kamiken,
+    <a href="#Page_181">181</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kane,
+    <a href="#Page_102">102</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_333">333</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_474">474</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kangerdleck Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kangerdlurksoeitsiak,
+    <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kaningesekasik,
+    <a href="#Page_166">166</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Karisch Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_575">575</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Karsok Island,
+    <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kattegat,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kikertarsoeitsiak Island,
+    <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">King Charles’s Land,
+    <a href="#Page_576">576–7</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">King William visits the Expedition,
+    <a href="#Page_24">24–5</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">King William’s Land,
+    <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kingitok Island,
+    <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Klentzer, his adventure with a bear,
+    <a href="#Page_395">395–397</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Koldewey Island,
+    <a href="#Page_429">429</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_432">432–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Königin Augusta Thal. <i>See</i> <a href="#Queen">Queen Augusta Valley.</a></li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Königsbach,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kronenberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_314">314</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_451">451</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_488">488</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_495">495</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kryolite,
+    <a href="#Page_182">182</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_202">202</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_211">211</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_249">249</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_256">256</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Kuhn Island,
+    <a href="#Page_312">312</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_429">429</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_450">450</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_456">456</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459–461</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_475">475–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_486">486</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_496">496</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_502">502</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Lemmings,
+    <a href="#Page_347">347–8</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_484">484</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Lichtenau,
+    <a href="#Page_182">182</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_199">199</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_203">203–219</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_166">166</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Lichtenfels,
+    <a href="#Page_208">208</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_223">223</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Lindenau Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Liverpool Coast,
+    <a href="#Page_105">105</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_116">116</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Loch Fine,
+    <a href="#Page_546">546</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Mackenzie Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_550">550</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Inlet,
+    <a href="#Page_544">544–546</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Peninsula,
+    <a href="#Page_552">552</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Malenefjeld,
+    <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Matterhorn, the,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">McClintock,
+    <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Missions and Missionaries,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_179">179</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_184">184</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_205">205–208</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_217">217</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_224">224</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Mogul Race,
+    <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Moravian Society,
+    <a href="#Page_183">183</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Mosquitos,
+    <a href="#Page_544">544</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Mossel Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_577">577</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Murray Island,
+    <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Musk-Oxen,
+    <a href="#Page_322">322</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_325">325–329</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_427">427–8</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_455">455–457</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_461">461</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_474">474–477</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_497">497–8</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_503">503</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_544">544</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Napersorsoak,
+    <a href="#Footnote_29">198 n.</a></li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Narksamiut Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_192">192</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Narwhals,
+    <a href="#Page_81">81</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_106">106</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_267">267</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_272">272</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_485">485</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Natzek,
+    <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Navigation, school of,
+    <a href="#Page_381">381</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Nennortalik,
+    <a href="#Page_182">182</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_197">197</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_203">203</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_210">210</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_220">220</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Neptune, visit of,
+    <a href="#Page_46">46–48</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Newspaper, the East Greenland,
+    <a href="#Page_378">378–380</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">New Year,
+    <a href="#Page_39">39</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">New Year’s Island,
+    <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Nordkapers,
+    <a href="#Page_38">38</a>. <i>See</i> <a href="#Dolphins">Dolphins</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Nordmeer,
+    <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Norse buildings,
+    <a href="#Page_227">227</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_231">231</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Norse traditions,
+    <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Norsemen,
+    <a href="#Page_176">176</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_185">185</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_196">196</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_202">202–211</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_212">212</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">North Cape,
+    <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">North Pole,
+    <a href="#Page_82">82</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_309">309</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_571">571–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_575">575</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_577">577–579</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">North Sea,
+    <a href="#Page_37">37</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_564">564</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Norway,
+    <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Nova Zembla,
+    <a href="#Page_61">61</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_65">65</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_309">309–10</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_575">575–6</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Nukarbik Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_142">142–3</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Island,
+    <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Okusiksak,
+    <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Olsen,
+    <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Omarsuk Island,
+    <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Omienarsuk Island,
+    <a href="#Page_163">163</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Ornithology,
+    <a href="#Page_38">38</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_41">41</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_49">49–50</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_63">63</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_70">70</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_73">73</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_76">76</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_82">82</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_87">87</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_93">93</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_105">105</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_137">137</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_143">143–4</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_275">275</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_278">278–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_347">347</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_392">392</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_484">484</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_493">493</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_505">505</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_518">518–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_525">525</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_541">541–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_544">544</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Ost (East) Pröven,
+    <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Owak,
+    <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Pamiadluk,
+    <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Paraselene,
+    <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Pardleet Island,
+    <a href="#Page_217">217</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_245">245–6</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Parhelia,
+    <a href="#Page_92">92–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_402">402</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_417">417</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Parry, Captain,
+    <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Island,
+    <a href="#Page_577">577</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Passion Week observed,
+    <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Pasterze,
+    <a href="#Page_365">365</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Pendulum Island,
+    <a href="#Page_83">83</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_86">86</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_88">88</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_91">91</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_278">278–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_298">298</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_301">301</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_303">303–4</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_306">306–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_318">318</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_326">326</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_331">331</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_334">334</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_376">376</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_402">402–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_486">486–488</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492–3</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_496">496</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_515">515</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_529">529–30</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_496">496</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Peru Harbour,
+    <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Peschel Island,
+    <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Petermann Point,
+    <a href="#Page_561">561</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Pfingstkap Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Polaris, the Voyage of the,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Polynje,
+    <a href="#Page_575">575</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Prince Christian Sound,
+    <a href="#Page_168">168</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_170">170</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Provision holes,
+    <a href="#Page_514">514</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_516">516</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">Magazines,
+    <a href="#Page_525">525</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Pytheas, Sea-lungs of,
+    <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1" id="Queen">Queen Augusta Valley,
+    <a href="#Page_305">305–6</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Ramsgate,
+    <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Refraction, Effects of,
+    <a href="#Page_84">84</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_139">139</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_273">273–4</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_294">294</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Redekam,
+    <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Reindeer,
+    <a href="#Page_280">280</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_348">348</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_476">476–478</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_527">527</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_544">544</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Rensselaer Harbour,
+    <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Reynold’s Island,
+    <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Rorquals,
+    <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Roon Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_431">431</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Ross, Captain,
+    <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Ruthner, Mount,
+    <a href="#Page_499">499</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Sabine,
+    <a href="#Page_278">278–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_515">515</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Island,
+    <a href="#Page_76">76</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_84">84</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_88">88</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_91">91</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_276">276</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_279">279–80</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_283">283</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_302">302</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_305">305</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_308">308</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_319">319</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_321">321</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_324">324–5</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_426">426–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_429">429</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_448">448</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_451">451</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_491">491–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_516">516</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_529">529</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_556">556</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sattelberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_305">305–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_400">400</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Peninsula,
+    <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Schleswig and Holstein,
+    <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Scoresby’s Sound,
+    <a href="#Page_116">116</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_123">123</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_432">432</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_543">543</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Scurvy,
+    <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Seals,
+    <a href="#Page_61">61–2</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_70">70</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_81">81</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_85">85</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_93">93</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_144">144</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_261">261</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_268">268</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_482">482–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sedan, Battle of,
+    <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sedlevik Island,
+    <a href="#Page_171">171–173</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sermesok,
+    <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Shannon Island,
+    <a href="#Page_86">86</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_279">279</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_282">282–289</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_298">298–300</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_308">308</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_318">318–19</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_334">334</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_342">342</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_376">376</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_427">427–8</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_475">475</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_531">531</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_533">533</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_564">564</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_496">496</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Shetland Islands,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_277">277</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_572">572</a>,.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Siberia,
+    <a href="#Page_576">576</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sinai,
+    <a href="#Page_100">100</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Skagen,
+    <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Skating,
+    <a href="#Page_92">92</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_100">100–1</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sledge-journeys,
+    <a href="#Page_155">155–162</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_314">314–323</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_394">394</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_409">409</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_464">464</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">objects and results of,
+    <a href="#Page_412">412–432</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sleeping-sack,
+    <a href="#Page_354">354</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_419">419–421</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sleeping under Tents,
+    <a href="#Page_419">419–422</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Smith’s Sound,
+    <a href="#Page_578">578–9</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Snow Blindness,
+    <a href="#Page_81">81</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_150">150</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_158">158</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_457">457–8</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_460">460</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_492">492–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Snow Sphinx,
+    <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Storms,
+    <a href="#Page_130">130–133</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_371">371–376</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_383">383–387</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Spitzbergen,
+    <a href="#Page_61">61</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_65">65</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_82">82</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_309">309</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_577">577</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">St. Silvester,
+    <a href="#Page_126">126</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Storefjeld Mount,
+    <a href="#Page_221">221</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Storm Bay,
+    <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Storö,
+    <a href="#Page_219">219</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Stufenberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_295">295–6</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_487">487</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_493">493</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_515">515</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Süd (South) Pröven,
+    <a href="#Page_182">182</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_218">218</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Sun, Midnight,
+    <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">reappearance of the,
+    <a href="#Page_400">400–402</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Tafelberg, the,
+    <a href="#Page_488">488</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Tellplatte, the,
+    <a href="#Page_487">487</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_496">496–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_530">530</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Islands,
+    <a href="#Page_291">291–293</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Temperatures. <i>See</i> Table, p.
+    <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Tents,
+    <a href="#Page_313">313</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_419">419</a>;</li>
+  <li class="i2">life in,
+    <a href="#Page_419">419–425</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Tent-rings,
+    <a href="#Page_513">513–4</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Tessermiut Fjord,
+    <a href="#Footnote_29">198 n.</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Teufelschloss. <i>See</i> <a href="#Castle">Devil’s Castle</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Texel,
+    <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Tirol Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_361">361–363</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_367">367</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_480">480</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Tnarsoit Island,
+    <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Tornik,
+    <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Torsukatek, Straits,
+    <a href="#Page_174">174</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1" id="Umiaks">Umiaks,
+    <a href="#Page_193">193–195</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_200">200</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Unartok Fjord,
+    <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</li>
+  <li class="i2">Island,
+    <a href="#Page_211">211–12</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Veegsteen,
+    <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Vienna, Academy of Science,
+    <a href="#Page_575">575</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Walrus, the,
+    <a href="#Page_120">120–1</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_280">280</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_291">291</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_357">357</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_368">368–9</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_478">478</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_480">480–482</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_487">487</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Walrus Island,
+    <a href="#Page_278">278</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_305">305</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_333">333</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_341">341–344</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_348">348</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_376">376</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_380">380</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_402">402</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_517">517</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Wangerooge,
+    <a href="#Page_572">572–3</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Weser River,
+    <a href="#Page_390">390</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_571">571–573</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Whalers,
+    <a href="#Page_83">83–4</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_266">266–7</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Whales,
+    <a href="#Page_257">257</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_485">485</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Wildspitze, the,
+    <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Winter-house, Erection of, &amp;c.,
+    <a href="#Page_102">102–104</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_111">111–114</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_134">134–5</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Winter-quarters of the Germania,
+    <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</li>
+
+  <li class="i1">Wolves,
+    <a href="#Page_483">483–4</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+  <li class="i1">Zoology,
+    <a href="#Page_32">32</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_93">93</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_271">271</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_275">275</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_347">347</a>,
+    <a href="#Page_399">399</a>.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p class="center p2 xs"><span class="smcap">Gilbert &amp; Rivington</span>, Printers, St. John’s Square, and 28,
+Whitefriars Street, E.C.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[1]</a> The contributions arising out of this appeal were to be
+forwarded to Dr. Petermann, or to the Accountant of the Expedition, Mr.
+G. Albrecht, in Bremen.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[2]</a> The list of subscriptions is published in the
+<i>Geographische Mittheilungen</i> by Dr. Petermann.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[3]</a> A day is the period between the sun’s departure from and
+return to the same meridian. It is calculated from twelve noon to the
+next twelve noon.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[4]</a> By Dr. Pansch and Capt. Koldewey.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[5]</a> From the 10th of July to the 1st of August we registered
+368 hours of fog, being seven-tenths of the whole time.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[6]</a> Alca torda, L.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[7]</a> Uria Brünnichii, Sab.; Uria grylle, L.; Mormon fratercula,
+Temm.; and Mergulus alle, Viell.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[8]</a> A glance at the surface is not sufficient to decide the
+real colour of the water, as it is affected by the reflected colour of
+the heavens. The influence of the latter must therefore be excluded;
+and we therefore examined the water through a tube. A convenient
+arrangement for the purpose offered itself in the opening for hauling
+in the screw.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[9]</a> It is said that ships are sometimes half in blue and half
+in green water.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[10]</a> By comparison of the direct astronomical observations of
+position with the partially indirect results obtained by the reckoning
+of the log.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[11]</a> Lord Dufferin and Karl Vogt were fortunate enough to
+catch a glimpse of the wonderful snowy peak of the Beerenberg, rising
+isolated to a height of 6863 feet. “My delight was that of an anchorite
+catching a glimpse of the seventh heaven.” (Lord Dufferin, “Letters
+from High Latitudes,” p. 139, 5th Ed.)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[12]</a> Scoresby, “Account of the Arctic Regions,” i. 168. Also
+Churchill’s “Collection of Voyages and Travels,” ii. 367–378.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[13]</a> We signalled—“Come within hail.” The Hansa
+understood—“Long stay a-peak.”</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[14]</a> This was confirmed later by the return voyage, through
+this water, of the Germania on the 27th.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_16" href="#FNanchor_16" class="label">[15]</a> On Sabine Island, at this time, there was fair weather;
+the storm was therefore more of a local nature, whilst generally the
+Northern storms rage the whole length of the coast.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_17" href="#FNanchor_17" class="label">[16]</a> By Captain Hegemann.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_18" href="#FNanchor_18" class="label">[17]</a> In reckoning by miles, nautical miles must be understood,
+four of which go to one German mile.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_19" href="#FNanchor_19" class="label">[18]</a> It must not be forgotten that Graah’s chronometer at that
+time had become useless. (Graah, Narrative, &amp;c., English Translation,
+p. 65.)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_20" href="#FNanchor_20" class="label">[19]</a> By Captain Hegemann, with the assistance of Professor
+Laube and W. Bade.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_21" href="#FNanchor_21" class="label">[20]</a> Graah’s map gives Lat. 60° 52′ for Cape Discord. Our own
+measurement determined it as 61° 0′.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_22" href="#FNanchor_22" class="label">[21]</a> “Another family, consisting of six individuals, was
+established on a point of land at Illuidlek, opposite Ivimiut.” Graah’s
+“Voyage to Greenland,” p. 70.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_23" href="#FNanchor_23" class="label">[22]</a> Is not this coppery colour due to the lichen which
+overlies the granite, similar to the violet-coloured <i>Byssus
+iolithes</i> of the Brocken?</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_24" href="#FNanchor_24" class="label">[23]</a> This is the nautical term for the summons to dinner
+(eight bells), and is still kept up at the seamen’s anniversary
+festivals in Bremen.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_25" href="#FNanchor_25" class="label">[24]</a> In a particularly interesting letter from the
+missionaries, received by our Society on the 4th of Nov., 1871, and
+written by A. Gericke, Friedrichsthal, 22nd August, it is said,—“A
+short time since a great number of the heathenish inhabitants of the
+east coast of Greenland came to us to barter, as they are in the habit
+of doing in some years. They said that they had seen the crew of the
+Hansa on the ice-floe, but from terror at such an appearance on their
+desert shore they had not ventured to go to them.”</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_26" href="#FNanchor_26" class="label">[25]</a> See the detailed account of East Greenland by Graah.
+“Voyage to Greenland,” p. 114.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_27" href="#FNanchor_27" class="label">[26]</a> By Professor Laube.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_28" href="#FNanchor_28" class="label">[27]</a> “Tornik” is the plural of “Tunek,” originally the
+Esquimaux name for the North American Indians a word, therefore, which
+the Greenlanders have brought with them from North America. They
+apply it now to fabulous creatures, who are supposed to dwell in the
+interior, far from the coast. They are twice the size of men, though
+of human form; and they are supposed to be generally hostile, though
+capable at times of rendering good service. (Rink.)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_29" href="#FNanchor_29" class="label">[28]</a> “Blanding” signifies a <i>half-breed</i>, and is the term
+commonly used by the Danes all over Greenland.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_30" href="#FNanchor_30" class="label">[29]</a> The height of this mountain was stated to us to be 12,000
+feet, which is considerably above the mark. The highest yet ascertained
+is on the north-west coast, from 6000 to 7000 feet. The highest peak
+(over 10,000 feet in height) was discovered by the Germania. In
+Southern Greenland they reach scarcely 4000 feet. In the interior,
+near the Tessermiut Fjord, is a mountain, to which they give the name
+Napersorsoak. This has now been ascended by Europeans, and according to
+Dr. Rink’s statement, is at the most 4000 feet high.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_31" href="#FNanchor_31" class="label">[30]</a> A mineral peculiar to this locality, produced from
+soda, a kind of clay much used in dying, from which Aluminium [?
+Alumina.—Tr.] and other products may be extracted.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_32" href="#FNanchor_32" class="label">[31]</a> By Professor Laube.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_33" href="#FNanchor_33" class="label">[32]</a> <i>Betula nana</i>, L.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_34" href="#FNanchor_34" class="label">[33]</a> <i>Salix herbacea</i>, <i>reticulata</i>,
+<i>arbuscula</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_35" href="#FNanchor_35" class="label">[34]</a> The chief place to which Kryolite is exported is
+Philadelphia, though some cargoes go to Hamburg, where the material is
+further prepared.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_36" href="#FNanchor_36" class="label">[35]</a> By Professor Laube.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_37" href="#FNanchor_37" class="label">[36]</a> It is a matter of great satisfaction to us that in news
+received from Greenland from the Inspector-General of the Danish
+Colony, Herr Rink, contained in a letter to Professor Laube, he
+expresses his regret that such a person should have been in office at
+the time.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_38" href="#FNanchor_38" class="label">[37]</a> By Professor Laube.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_39" href="#FNanchor_39" class="label">[38]</a> <i>Mytilus edulis</i>, L. The Greenland name for this
+mollusk is <i>Nilock</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_40" href="#FNanchor_40" class="label">[39]</a> A kind of wrapper made of European materials, which is
+drawn over the fur dress.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_41" href="#FNanchor_41" class="label">[40]</a> Kamiken appears to be a Polish word for some description
+of fur. (Tr.)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_42" href="#FNanchor_42" class="label">[41]</a> A glance at the chart will show that the Hansa, on her
+first advance on the 22nd of July, was nearly on the same spot, but was
+ice-blocked, and drifted to the south.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_43" href="#FNanchor_43" class="label">[42]</a> According to our later observations the harbour time
+on this spot was 12h. 0m., consequently high water on this day
+was at 6h. 41m.; the current noticed must therefore be ascribed
+to some local influence, especially as the tidal wave ran to the
+north.—<i>Koldewey.</i></p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_44" href="#FNanchor_44" class="label">[43]</a> The question has been raised several times, especially
+inland, as to why, being unable to advance along the land ice, I did
+not re-enter the pack and work my way through it northwards, and, in a
+higher latitude, again try to reach the coast. This is opposed to all
+experience: it has long been known that in a stream of heavy ice, in
+fact in the so-called pack, never, nor at any place, with the strongest
+and best steamer, has any considerable progress been made without the
+coast as a support. Had I wished to have reached the coast at a more
+northerly point, I should have had to penetrate the ice-barrier, again
+to steer along the northern border, and force my way into the pack
+once more in 78°. Such a proceeding would certainly never have been
+followed by the desired result, and it would have been unjustifiable
+to give up a basis, reached with so much trouble, to follow a
+phantom.—<i>Koldewey.</i></p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_45" href="#FNanchor_45" class="label">[44]</a> About 940 English feet. (Tr.)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_46" href="#FNanchor_46" class="label">[45]</a> The same appearance was also noticed by some of the Hansa
+men at the beginning of November.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_47" href="#FNanchor_47" class="label">[46]</a> By Captain Koldewey.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_48" href="#FNanchor_48" class="label">[47]</a> I. e. Queen Augusta Valley. (Tr.)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_49" href="#FNanchor_49" class="label">[48]</a> By Captain Koldewey and Lieutenant Payer.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_50" href="#FNanchor_50" class="label">[49]</a> This Fjord had for the most part been free from ice in
+the summer. The heat in the two summer months is here so great that it
+will melt ice of seven feet thickness, which is not possible in the
+outer coast in these latitudes. The ice outside the Fjord remained firm
+all the summer.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_51" href="#FNanchor_51" class="label">[50]</a> This fuel had to be sought under fresh fallen snow,
+whereby I had a finger frost-bitten.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_52" href="#FNanchor_52" class="label">[51]</a> By Dr. Pansch.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_53" href="#FNanchor_53" class="label">[52]</a> I. e. Tide-hole. (Tr.)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_54" href="#FNanchor_54" class="label">[53]</a> <i>Myodes torquatus</i>, Pall. “It can only be
+classed as a very rare and local (possibly accidental) member of
+the Fauna of Greenland, as it has never since being found in the
+country.”—<i>Proceedings of Zoological Society of London</i>, 1868, p.
+349.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_55" href="#FNanchor_55" class="label">[54]</a> By Dr. Pansch.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_56" href="#FNanchor_56" class="label">[55]</a> Beaufort scale of 0–12. Nine would indicate a rate of
+fifty-six miles per hour.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_57" href="#FNanchor_57" class="label">[56]</a> By these must be understood German <i>geographical</i>
+miles, each of which is equal to one-fifteenth of a degree.—Tr.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_58" href="#FNanchor_58" class="label">[57]</a> December 31, Festival of Silvester, Bishop of Rome.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_59" href="#FNanchor_59" class="label">[58]</a> By Dr. Pansch.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_60" href="#FNanchor_60" class="label">[59]</a> From the slight effects produced by the bite of the
+animal, it would appear that it was not full grown.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_61" href="#FNanchor_61" class="label">[60]</a> This fur glove had so successfully resisted the gnawing
+of the bear, that Börgen had some difficulty in finding where the
+incisors of the brute had penetrated, and was able to wear it again
+without its being mended. “The furrier, Jahns, is still living in
+Bremen,” writes Dr. Copeland.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_62" href="#FNanchor_62" class="label">[61]</a> Similarly Livingstone, who, on being torn by a lion,
+tells us “There was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror. It was like
+what patients partly under the influence of chloroform describe, who
+see all the operation, but feel not the knife.”—Missionary Travels, S.
+Afr., p. 12.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_63" href="#FNanchor_63" class="label">[62]</a> After Dr. Börgen had been for some time under Dr.
+Pansch’s hands, he remembered that he had the pocket-chronometer (one
+of Felsing’s, of Bremen) with him; so, as it had not come on board, Dr.
+Copeland and a guard went in search of it, and found it fast frozen to
+the surface of the ice. It had gone on for some time after its fall,
+but had stopped at last, owing to the intensity of the cold. After
+warming it in the hand, it went on again for some seconds.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_64" href="#FNanchor_64" class="label">[63]</a> Börgen’s wounds healed and cicatrized rapidly. His youth
+and vigorous constitution enabled him to throw off all the evil effects
+of the bear’s seizure.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_65" href="#FNanchor_65" class="label">[64]</a> By Lieut. Payer.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_66" href="#FNanchor_66" class="label">[65]</a> Snow spectacles, on account of their fragility and
+metal mountings, are particularly undesirable, as in intense cold
+they burn the skin. Spectacles of india-rubber we found the best,
+completely enclosing the eye, which is protected by very fine wire
+gauze.—<i>Börgen.</i></p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_67" href="#FNanchor_67" class="label">[66]</a> From loading and unloading the sacks, the hard bread
+carried with us falls by degrees into dust.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_68" href="#FNanchor_68" class="label">[67]</a> i. e. Secondary. (<i>Tr.</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_69" href="#FNanchor_69" class="label">[68]</a> <i>Bessemer-fluth</i> in the original. (<i>Tr.</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_70" href="#FNanchor_70" class="label">[69]</a> Ellinger, with his aspirations and intelligence, might
+have become a great support to the German Arctic Expedition, but he
+unfortunately died shortly after its return. In December, 1870, he left
+Rotterdam on a Dutch ship for Savannah, and after eleven days’ fever,
+in the hospital of that place, he died on the 26th February, 1871.
+Besides Payer every one connected with the Expedition gave him the most
+excellent character. In the official report of the Committee for the
+North German Expedition, in Bremen, on the 15th of July, 1871, it runs
+thus:—“Captain Koldewey and Dr. Copeland made honourable mention of
+Peter Ellinger, sailor on board the Germania during the second German
+Expedition, and who is lately dead. The death of this young man—he was
+only twenty-four—is still more to be deplored, as his whole conduct
+during that time led us to suppose that he would eventually prove
+an ornament to the German navy, not only from his cleverness in all
+seaman’s work, but also for his great interest in all nautical science.
+He thirsted for knowledge, and was very successful in meteorological
+and magnetic observations, and also took part in surveying; and being
+employed in all great undertakings, deserves the utmost thanks at the
+hands of the Expedition.”</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_71" href="#FNanchor_71" class="label">[70]</a> In the interior they cannot exist, as the icing of the
+straits, and the consequent departure of their only means of support,
+the walrus and the seal, compels them to live on the coast.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_72" href="#FNanchor_72" class="label">[72]</a> By Lieut. Payer.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_73" href="#FNanchor_73" class="label">[73]</a> “Aussingen” is a seaman’s term for a peculiar rhythm, in
+time to which the men pull.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_74" href="#FNanchor_74" class="label">[74]</a> A cloudy atmosphere greatly favours this disease of the
+eyes, as objects disappear, which serve as a resting-point or change.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_75" href="#FNanchor_75" class="label">[75]</a> By Lieut. Payer and Dr. Copeland.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_76" href="#FNanchor_76" class="label">[76]</a> In Greenland language, <i>Nennok</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_77" href="#FNanchor_77" class="label">[77]</a> The most northerly point at which a bear has been met
+with is 81° 30′ N. Lat. It was killed by some of Parry’s men on the
+pack-ice.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_78" href="#FNanchor_78" class="label">[78]</a> It will be interesting to notice that the bear killed on
+the 7th of July, after having a ball ¹⁄₁₆ lb. through both lungs and
+the thickest part of the heart, ran forward with powerful leaps for at
+least sixty yards before it fell dead.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_79" href="#FNanchor_79" class="label">[79]</a> Scoresby reports that once on the coast of Greenland he
+saw 100 bears, of which at least twenty might have been killed.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_80" href="#FNanchor_80" class="label">[80]</a> In Greenlandish, <i>Terienniak</i> and <i>Kakaka</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_81" href="#FNanchor_81" class="label">[81]</a> Between which there are varieties or cross-breeds.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_82" href="#FNanchor_82" class="label">[82]</a> In Greenland language, <i>Umingmak</i>.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_83" href="#FNanchor_83" class="label">[83]</a> The wool of a musk-ox would fill a moderate-sized
+pillow.—<i>Tramnitz.</i></p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_84" href="#FNanchor_84" class="label">[84]</a> The flesh of one of these animals not too old was quite
+free from this taste, and could not be distinguished from our European
+beef; and the milk, which I also tasted, was similar to the best
+European cow-milk.—<i>Tramnitz.</i></p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_85" href="#FNanchor_85" class="label">[85]</a> In the beginning of August, 1870, on the top of Cape
+Franklin, Copeland observed traces of musk-oxen in the snow at a height
+of 4875 feet above the level of the sea, and on the 15th of September
+Copeland and Wagner saw bear-tracks on the back of the Hasenberg, 1950
+feet high.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_86" href="#FNanchor_86" class="label">[86]</a> By Dr. Copeland and Dr. C. Börgen.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_87" href="#FNanchor_87" class="label">[87]</a> By Dr. Pansch.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_88" href="#FNanchor_88" class="label">[88]</a> By Captain Koldewey.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_89" href="#FNanchor_89" class="label">[89]</a> By Captain Koldewey, Dr. Pansch, and First-Lieutenant
+Payer.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_90" href="#FNanchor_90" class="label">[90]</a> By Captain Koldewey, First-Lieutenant Payer, and Dr.
+Pansch.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_91" href="#FNanchor_91" class="label">[91]</a> And yet on the southern side of a block of rock we found
+melted ice-water.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_92" href="#FNanchor_92" class="label">[92]</a> By Captain Carl Koldewey.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_93" href="#FNanchor_93" class="label">[93]</a> It consists of one or more unimportant islands of no
+great size.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_94" href="#FNanchor_94" class="label">[94]</a> (?) Hocky, or bandy-stick. (<i>Tr.</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_95" href="#FNanchor_95" class="label">[95]</a> This conjecture is supported by the fact, that in Ocean
+I., one of the Kingsmill group in the South Pacific Ocean, a similar
+custom prevails. Human teeth, thus bored, are used by the native women
+as necklaces. (<i>Tr.</i>)</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_96" href="#FNanchor_96" class="label">[96]</a> See Parry’s Journal, p. 286.</p>
+
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="transnote">Transcriber’s Notes:<br>
+<br>
+1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been
+corrected silently.<br>
+<br>
+2. Where hyphenation is in doubt, it has been retained as in the
+original.<br>
+<br>
+3. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have
+been retained as in the original.</p>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 79056 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
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+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1 @@
+[Project Gutenberg](https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook [#79056](https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/79056)