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| author | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-06-10 08:21:07 -0700 |
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| committer | www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> | 2026-06-10 08:21:07 -0700 |
| commit | 92e09c1fa8f113ca68c0bf5a9a322d89416f1ec3 (patch) | |
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diff --git a/78838-h/78838-h.htm b/78838-h/78838-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e9f6a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/78838-h/78838-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7631 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> + <meta name="format-detection" content="telephone=no,date=no,address=no,email=no,url=no"> + <title> + Fruits of enterprize exhibited in the adventures of Belzoni in Egypt and Nubia | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .5em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .5em; +} + + + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; +} + +hr.chap {width: 65%; margin-left: 17.5%; margin-right: 17.5%;} + + +div.chapter {page-break-before: always;} +h2.nobreak {page-break-before: avoid;} + + + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + + +.tdl {text-align: left;} +.tdr {text-align: right;} +.tdc {text-align: center;} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + text-indent: 0; +} /* page numbers */ + + + +blockquote { + margin-top: 0; + margin-bottom: 0; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.center {text-align: center; text-indent: 0;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.allsmcap {font-variant: small-caps; text-transform: lowercase;} + +/* Images */ + +img { + max-width: 100%; + height: auto; +} +img.w100 {width: 100%;} + + +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; + page-break-inside: avoid; + max-width: 100%; +} + + + + + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnotes {border: 1px dashed;} + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +/* Poetry */ +/* uncomment the next line for centered poetry */ +.poetry-container {display: flex; justify-content: center;} +.poetry-container {text-align: center;} +.poetry {text-align: left; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%;} +.poetry .stanza {margin: 1em auto;} +.poetry .verse {text-indent: -3em; padding-left: 3em;} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:small; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} + +.adv {max-width:30em;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;} +.sm {font-size: .8em;} +.xsm {font-size: .7em;} +.xxsm {font-size: .6em;} + +.padad {padding-top:1em !important;} +/* Prevents text from wrapping */ + + +/* disable underlining of links */ +a {text-decoration: none} + +.vbottom {vertical-align: bottom;} + + + + + + + + +/*page number color */ +.pagenum { + color: gray; +} + + +/* table with no borders*/ +table.autotable3 {border-collapse: collapse;} +table.autotable3 td, +table.autotable3 th {padding: 0.25em;} + + +/* Poetry indents */ +.poetry .indent0 {text-indent: -3.0em;} + + +/* Illustration classes */ +.illowe30 {width: 30em;} +.illowe10 {width: 10em;} +.illowe5 {width: 5em;} +.illowe24 {width: 24em;} +.illowe20 {width: 20em;} + </style> +</head> + +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78838 ***</div> + + + + + +<figure class="figcenter illowe30" id="004"> + <img class="w100" src="images/004.jpg" alt="The Nile in flood, with people and livestock."> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">5</span></p> +</div> + +<h1> +<span class="sm">FRUITS OF ENTERPRIZE</span><br> +<span class="xxsm">EXHIBITED IN THE</span><br> +ADVENTURES OF BELZONI<br> +<span class="xxsm">IN</span><br> +<span class="sm">EGYPT AND NUBIA</span> +</h1> + +<p class="center"> + WITH AN ACCOUNT OF<br> + HIS DISCOVERIES IN THE PYRAMIDS,<br> + AMONG THE RUINS OF CITIES, AND IN THE ANCIENT TOMBS.<br> + <br> + “LABOR OMNIA VINCIT.”</p> + + <figure class="figcenter illowe10" id="005"> + <img class="w100" src="images/005.jpg" alt="" data-role="presentation"> +</figure> + +<p class="center"> + <span class="xsm">A NEW EDITION, REVISED, WITH ADDITIONS.</span><br> + <br> + NEW YORK:<br> + <span class="sm">CHARLES S. FRANCIS, 252 BROADWAY</span><br> + <br> + BOSTON:<br> + <span class="sm">JOSEPH H. FRANCIS, 128 WASHINGTON STREET.</span><br> + <br> + 1843. +</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">6</span></p> + + + <p class="center"> + NOTICE. + </p> +</div> + + +<p>Placed in an amphitheatre of boundless extent, +and surrounded by an immense variety of objects, +young persons are naturally inquisitive, and delighted +with every new accession of knowledge; and as truth +is no longer deemed incompatible with amusement, +the most pleasing mode of conveying the former +appears to be to blend it with the latter.</p> + +<p>Influenced by this belief, the compiler of this +little volume was induced to place it in the “Library +of Instructive Amusement;” she is happy +in having an opportunity of acknowledging her +thanks to the enterprising traveller, who politely +gave her his permission to do so.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">7</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS"> + CONTENTS. + </h2> +</div> + + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER I. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Bernard’s picture.—Situation of Egypt.—Belzoni introduced.—Motives +for his going into Egypt.—Poor success of his hydraulic machine.—His +thoughts turned towards the Antiquities of the country.—Difficulty in +removing Young Memnon from Thebes to Cairo.—Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy +cave.—Deceit of the Arabs. +</td> +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_I">13</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER II. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Egyptian Customs.—Belzoni goes up the Nile to Nubia.—Visits the +Island of Elephantis.—Arrives at Ybsambul.—Attempts to open its +magnificent Temple.—Obliged for want of time and money to give +up the project.—Visits the little island of Mainarty.—Danger +on the Cataract.—Returns to Thebes.—Removal of Young Memnon to +Cairo.—Belzoni resides for a short time at Rosetta. +</td> + +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_II">45</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER III. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Bernard’s perseverance.—Belzoni’s second Voyage.—Rapid Journey +from Minieh to Thebes.—Superb Temple at Carnac.—Works carried +on both at Gournou and Carnac.—Mummy Caves.—Belzoni’s object +in entering them.—Manufactures of the ancient Egyptians.—Their +Idols.—Curious Habitations at Gournou.—He revisits Ybsambul.—Opens +the Temple.—Returns highly gratified to Thebes. +</td> + +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_III">70</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER IV.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">8</span> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Emily amused with a description of Greenland.—Belzoni makes the valley +of Beban el Malook the scene of his researches.—He enters and explores +the tomb of Psammuthis.—Receives a visit from Hamed Aga.—Returns +to Cairo.—Visits the Pyramids.—Time and purpose of their erection +uncertain.—Enters one which for more than one thousand years had +appeared a solid mass of stones. +</td> + +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_IV">101</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER V. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.—Motives for going there.—Inundation +of the Nile.—The Caravan crosses the Desert.—Account of Ababde, an +independent tribe, residing among the rocks on the coast of the Red +Sea.—Journey in search for the ancient city of Berenice. +</td> + +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_V">126</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER VI. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Search for the ancient city of Berenice.—The boats of the Ababde +fishermen described.—Discovers the remains of the Berenice mentioned +by a former traveller.—Returns towards Esne.—Meets with two shepherd +girls tending their sheep on the mountains.—Sufferings of travellers +in crossing the Deserts.—The caravan reaches the banks of the +Nile.—Belzoni returns to Gournou. +</td> + +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_VI">140</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER VII. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Dr. Franklin’s kite.—Some sailors ascend Pompey’s Pillar by means of +a paper kite.—Removal of the obelisk from the Island of Philoe.—It +falls into the Nile.—Ingenious method of raising it.—It is launched +down the cataract.—Arrives in safety in Rosetta.—Belzoni goes to +Beban el Malook.—Completes his drawings and models of the Tomb.—Bids +final adieu to Thebes.—Traverses the Western Desert in search of the +Temple of Jupiter Ammon.—Procures a donkey at Benisoeuf.—Reaches the +Lake Mœris.—Rose-trees in profusion. +</td> + +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_VII">156</a> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"> +CHAPTER VIII. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the rocks near +the lake.—Disturbs a hyena.—Account of the famous Labyrinth.—Visit +to the Elloah.—An interview with Khalil Bey.—Account of +the Bedouins.—Belzoni crosses the Desert attended by Scheik +Grumar.—Brought to a halt by a sentinel with a musket.—Arrival at +Zaboo.—Interview with the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.—Belzoni +goes to their village.—Discovers the seat of the temple.—Meets +with an unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.—Reaches +Benisoeuf.—Arrives at Cairo.—Embarks for Europe.—Returns to +England. +</td> + +<td class="tdr vbottom"> +<a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">172</a> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">9</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION"> + INTRODUCTION. + </h2> +</div> + +<p class="center">CONTAINING A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE LAST +DAYS OF BELZONI.</p> + + +<p>Since the first appearance of this little work, +the enterprising individual whose discoveries it +relates, and who gave his permission for its publication, +has departed this life. It was hoped +that through his means some account of places, +imperfectly described by others, might have +been obtained; but the decree of Providence +has prevented the accomplishment of so desirable +an object. The following short account of +his latter days will not be considered an improper +appendage to the work:⁠—</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>“Died at Gato, near Benin, in Africa, on the +3d of December 1823, Mr. <span class="smcap">G. Belzoni</span>, so well +known for his Egyptian tombs. He was so far +on his way into the interior, endeavouring to +reach Houssa, when a dysentery put an end to +his valuable life. He was buried at Gato the +day after his decease, and a board, with the following +inscription, was placed over his grave:⁠—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">10</span></p> + +<p class="center"> + <span class="sm">HERE LIE THE REMAINS OF</span><br> + <br> + G. BELZONI,<br> + <br> + Who was attacked with Dysentery, at Benin,<br> + (on his way to Houssa and Timbuctoo,)<br> + on the 26th of November, and died<br> + at this place,<br> + December 3d, 1823. +</p> + +<p>“Mr. Belzoni had been landed by Captain +Filmore, R. N. at Benin. Captain Filmore exerted +himself arduously in assisting the intrepid +traveller, and discharged a man from his vessel, +who was a native of Houssa, that he might accompany +Mr. B. on his route. The following +extract of a letter contains most of the late particulars +respecting this enterprising and scientific +individual:—</p> + +<p>“On the night of the 24th of November, Mr. +Belzoni left us, with Mr. Houtson, for Gato. +On parting with us he seemed a little agitated, +particularly when the crew of the brig which +brought him, (to each of whom he had made a +present) gave him three loud cheers on leaving +the vessel? “God bless you, my fine fellows! +and send you a happy sight of your country and +friends!” Was his answer. On the 3d of December +I received a letter from Mr. Houtson, +requesting me to come to Benin, as Mr. B. was +lying dangerously ill; and, in case of death, +wished a second person to be present. I was +prevented going, not only by business, but by a +severe fever which had then hold of me. On +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">11</span>the 5th, I had a second letter from Mr. H. with +the particulars of Mr. B.’s end; and one from +himself, almost illegible, dated December 2, requesting +me to assist in the disposal of his effects, +and to remit the proceeds home to his +agents, Messrs Briggs, Brothers & Co, America +Square, London, together with a beautiful +Amethyst ring, which he seemed particularly +desirous should be delivered to his wife, with +the assurance that he died in the fullest affection +for her, as he found himself too weak to write +his last wishes and adieus.</p> + +<p>“At the time of Mr. Belzoni’s death, Mr. +Houtson had every thing arranged with the King +of Benin for his departure, and, had his health +continued, there is no doubt he would have succeeded. +Mr. Belzoni passed at Benin as an inhabitant, +or rather native, of the interior, who +had come to England when a youth, and was +now trying to return to his country. The kings +and emigrands (or nobles) gave credit to this, +Mr. Belzoni being in a Moorish dress, with his +beard nearly a foot in length. There was, however, +some little jealousy amongst them, which +was removed by a present or two, well applied; +and the King of Benin’s messenger was to accompany +Mr. Belzoni with the King’s cane, and +as many men as were considered necessary for +a guard and baggage-carriers. The King’s name +is respected as far as Houssa, and he has a messenger, +or ambassador, stationary there. On +Mr. Belzoni’s arrival at Houssa, he was to leave +his guard there, and proceed to Timbuctoo, the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">12</span>King not guaranteeing his safety farther than +Houssa, and Timbuctoo not being known at +Benin. On his return to Houssa, he would +make the necessary preparations for going down +the Niger, and despatch his messengers and guard +back with letters to his agents and to Mr. John +Houtson: the messenger to be rewarded according +to the account the letters gave of his +behaviour, and the King to receive a valuable +stated present. This was the plan, and I think +it would have proved fortunate, had Mr. B. +lived.</p> + +<p>“Mr. Belzoni was a native of Padua, and had +known England many years. He first visited +Egypt with a view of erecting hydraulic engines +for the Pasha, to assist in irrigating the +country. In stature, he was above six feet and +a half, and possessed of great bodily strength. +His manners and deportment were marked by +great suavity and mildness, and he had a genuine +love for science in all its branches. He +was brave, ardent, and persevering in pursuit of +his objects; and his decease at the moment of a +strong hope of success, must be deeply felt by +all who estimate the true interests of science +and the light of discovery at their true value!”</p> +</blockquote> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe5" id="012"> + <img class="w100" src="images/012.jpg" alt="" data-role="presentation"> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">13</span></p> + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I"> + CHAPTER I. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Bernard’s picture.—Situation of Egypt.—Belzoni introduced.—Motives +for his going into Egypt.—Poor success of his hydraulic +machine.—His thoughts turned towards the Antiquities +of the country.—Difficulty in removing Young Memnon +from Thebes to Cairo.—Belzoni’s visit to a Mummy cave.—Deceit +of the Arabs.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p>“The last—the very last pyramid! dear Laura,” +exclaimed the little Bernard, as he climbed +upon his sister’s chair, and surveyed a sketch +that she was copying, from one in a large folio +volume.</p> + +<p>“And now, when you have shaded the side of +that pyramid, will you draw the wheel of my +cart? I am quite, quite tired of your tombs, +and your pillars, and your ruins, and your monuments, +falling this way and that way:—I would +much rather know how to draw the spokes of +the wheels of my little cart:—it is impossible for +me to finish my picture;—you see I have made +my wagon turning down a shady lane,—it is +evening—the lamps are lit on the posts—the +moon is peeping behind the trees, and the smoke +is rising from the chimnies of my carter’s cottage—but +my poor cart has no wheels because +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">14</span>I cannot draw spokes—and now, is that tiresome +pyramid done, dear Laura?”</p> + +<p>“If you knew all that render those pyramids +so interesting to Laura, my love,” said Bernard’s +mother, “you would not be in such great haste +to see them finished; indeed I believe you would +willingly give up the pleasure of seeing your +own little picture completed, to watch your sister +draw hers.”</p> + +<p>“Indeed, mother!” exclaimed the lively boy—“where +are they, and why do you think that the +account of them will amuse me so much?”</p> + +<p>“My story is a long one,” replied his mother, +“so I will not begin it till after tea, and then we +can go on without interruption.”</p> + +<p>“Oh, mamma! that will be delightful! quite +delightful! for we can have a settled evening; +and as to my cart, Laura may put in the spokes +to-morrow—the wheels will not signify for one +night, will they, mother?” exclaimed Bernard, +and, without waiting for an answer, he jumped +up, fetched his little straw hat from its hook in +the hall, and ran across the lawn to tell Owen +and Emily, who were busily engaged training a +white clematis round one of the pillars of the +alcove. They quickly returned together. Tea +was despatched, and the cheerful group repaired +to the library. The maps were laid open on +the library table. Laura seated herself between +her two brothers, and Emily whose blue eyes +sparkled with joy, placed herself by the side of +her mother.</p> + +<p>“And now, why do you think that Laura’s +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">15</span>picture would please me so much, mother?” said +Bernard; “where are those pyramids?”</p> + +<p>“Think for a moment, my dear. Do you not +know the name of the country so renowned for +these famous mementos of ancient art?—you +have often been told.”</p> + +<p>Bernard paused—“In Egypt, mother,—in +Egypt, an ancient kingdom of Africa.”</p> + +<p>“Can you give me any account of Egypt—do +you know anything respecting that country?”</p> + +<p>Bernard paused again, but Emily looked up +wishfully and said,</p> + +<p>“May I tell you what I know, mother?” Her +mother nodded assent.</p> + +<p>“Egypt,” said Emily, “consists of a narrow +vale on both sides of the Nile, bounded by ridges +of mountains or hills. Nubia is on the south; +on the west it joins the great sandy deserts; on +the north it is washed by the Mediterranean; +and on the east by the Red Sea, except where +it is joined to Asia by the narrow neck of land +called the Isthmus of Suez.”</p> + +<p>“I recollect more about Egypt, now that Emily +mentions the Nile,” exclaimed her little brother: +“I have often heard of the rushes that +grew on the banks of that river—the people used +to make their paper of them, and write all their +books upon it—all that they wrote—they placed +the thin leaves of the stem one over the other, +then flattened them, and platted them as Fanny +plats her little paper mats; so that one leaf lay +one way and another another way, and then +they were stuck together with the muddy water +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">16</span>of the Nile, and the leaves were dried and pressed +with heavy weights—and rubbed and pressed +again a great many times.”</p> + +<p>“And,” said Owen, “papa has often told us +that in Egypt there is very little rain, and that +the Nile at certain periods overflows its banks, +and carries with its waters a rich mud, which +renders the soil fruitful, without that labour +which the farmers in England are obliged to +bestow, before the fields are fit to receive the +grain. In Egypt, they have only to put the +seeds into the ground.”</p> + +<p>“But if the Nile should not overflow, just +when they expected it,” said Bernard, “what +would they do then?”</p> + +<p>“This sometimes happens,” said Laura, “but +you will hear by and by of the means which +have been taken to prevent the famine which is +generally occasioned by such a calamity, and of +the mode which is used to supply the deficiency, +if the river do not afford its usual assistance.”</p> + +<p>“Well, mamma,” said Owen, “now that we +know where Egypt is—now for the pyramids:—whereabouts +are they, and for what purpose +were they erected?”</p> + +<p>“Not so fast, my love. Let us proceed gradually. +I have not yet told you that Egypt is +divided into Upper, Middle, and Lower; and +that it is a country renowned in history, having +been once the seat, if not the parent of the +sciences. It is not only remarkable for those +surprising monuments of antiquity, the famous +pyramids, which baffle the researches of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">17</span>deepest antiquary to fix upon their origin, but +also for many other “glorious structures,” astonishing +remains of ancient temples, pompous palaces, +obelisks, columns, statues, and paintings. +Thus is Egypt rendered so interesting; and it is +at the present time peculiarly so to us, because +a gentleman has lately, with indefatigable zeal, +made many researches in that country, and his +curious discoveries among the pyramids and +temples have excited the public attention in no +small degree. He has spent many years in this +arduous employment, and is now amply compensated +in knowing that they have not been +spent in vain.”</p> + +<p>“Oh, mamma!” exclaimed Emily, “tell me the +name of this gentleman:—why did he go there? +Was he fond of antiquities? How did he manage +to enter the pyramids? and what did he +find in them?”</p> + +<p>“I cannot give a reply to so many questions +in a breath, my little girl; however, I will answer +one of them:—the name of the gentleman +I mentioned is <span class="smcap">Belzoni</span>.”</p> + +<p>“A native of England, mamma?”</p> + +<p>“No; a native of Padua.”</p> + +<p>“Padua, an ancient, large, and celebrated city +of Italy,” said Laura, as she pointed to the map.</p> + +<p>“Is it all true that you are going to tell us, +mother?” said Owen.</p> + +<p>“Perfectly true. The account I purpose giving +you of Egypt and Nubia is taken from Belzoni’s +own Travels, recently published: you may +therefore rely on its correctness.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">18</span></p> + +<p>“Unfortunate circumstances falling out in +his native country, compelled Belzoni to leave +it, and about twenty years ago he came to England. +Here he married, and contrived to live +on his own industry, and the knowledge he had +acquired in various branches whilst at Rome, in +which city he had spent many of his juvenile +hours. He now turned his thoughts to hydraulics, +a science to which he had before paid attention, +and which in the end was the principal +cause of his going into Egypt.”</p> + +<p>“I must interrupt you dear mamma,” said +Bernard; “will you tell me what is meant by +<i>hydraulics</i>, and why Belzoni should go into +Egypt on that account?”</p> + +<p>“The science which has for its object the motion +of fluids is called hydraulics, and its principal +object is to furnish us with the means of +conducting water from one situation to another +by canals or other means. Belzoni imagined +that a hydraulic machine would be of great use +in Egypt to irrigate the fields, which want water +only to make them produce at any time of the +year.”</p> + +<p>“Then the soil is fertile, and the climate warm, +I suppose, mamma?” said Owen.</p> + +<p>“Yes: the soil of Egypt is particularly noted +for the fertility occasioned by its wonderful river; +and, while thinking of this, we are led to +observe the two beautiful prospects which, owing +to it, Egypt exhibits at two seasons of the +year. During <i>our</i> summer the climate <i>there</i> is +excessively warm, and it is impossible to describe +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">19</span>a scene more delightful than that which +the country presents at the first overflowing of +the Nile; the spectator beholds a spacious sea, +spotted with innumerable towns and villages, +sometimes contrasted with groves of palm-trees, +while a magnificent display of sylvan and mountainous +scenery bounds the extensive prospect.</p> + +<p>“On the contrary, if the view be taken when +<i>our</i> gardens and fields are clothed in the robes +of winter, the whole country <i>there</i> resembles one +large meadow, covered with the finest verdure, +and enamelled with the choicest flowers; the +plains embellished with flocks and herds; the +air, pure and salubrious, scented with orange +and lemon blossoms, which blow in luxuriance.”</p> + +<p>“I should like to live in Egypt, mamma!” exclaimed +Bernard.</p> + +<p>“But inconveniences are to be met with there, +as well as every where else, my love. The heat +is oppressive to all who are unused to it: indeed, +the southerly winds are sometimes so sultry as +to oblige the natives to immure themselves in +vaults or caves; and not unfrequently these +winds raise such clouds of sand as to obscure +the light of the sun, and, even to those who are +used to them, to be almost insupportable. The +people call them poisonous winds, or winds of +the Desert, and, during the three days that they +generally last, the streets are forsaken; and in +a melancholy condition is the unfortunate traveller, +whom they surprise remote from shelter.”</p> + +<p>“I wonder,” exclaimed Emily, “whether Belzoni +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">20</span>ever encountered them. Do you think he +did, mamma?”</p> + +<p>“I will begin my account, and then you may +hear a description of the various adventures he +met with.”</p> + +<p>Mrs. A. then began to relate some circumstances +of <i>Belzoni’s Researches in Egypt and +Nubia</i>, as follows.</p> + +<p>Some years after Mr. Belzoni had resided in +England, he formed the resolution of going to +the south of Europe; and, taking Mrs. Belzoni +with him, he visited Portugal and Spain, and afterwards +the small but important isle of Malta, +which lies to the south of Sicily, and is celebrated +for its fine port and for the strength of +its fortifications, now belonging to Great Britain. +Hence they embarked for Egypt, and arrived +in safety in Alexandria, on the seacoast.</p> + +<p>On entering the harbour of this city, Belzoni +was informed that the plague was there. To +an European, who had never been in that country, +this was alarming intelligence. Happily, +however, it nearly ceased in a short time; and +as his principal view was to go on to Cairo, the +capital of Egypt, he hired a boat, and they embarked +with an English gentleman, who was going +up the Nile.</p> + +<p>This city is one hundred miles from the mouth +of the Nile. Owing to contrary winds, it was +some days before our travellers landed at Boolac, +within a mile of it. At this place a bustling +scene presented itself, and the majestic appearance +of Turkish soldiers in various costumes, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">21</span>Arabs of many tribes, boats, camels, horses, and +asses, all in motion formed a striking picture. +Immediately after landing, they went to Cairo; +but, as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta +could not receive women within their +walls, they were accommodated in an old house +at Boolac, belonging to a gentleman, the interpreter +and director of all foreign affairs of +Mahomed Ali, the Turkish Viceroy, or Bashaw, +by whom Egypt is governed.</p> + +<p>He was a man of great acuteness of understanding, +and well disposed towards strangers; +which was fortunate for Belzoni as he had to +apply through this gentleman to the Bashaw respecting +his hydraulic machine, for which purpose +he went to Egypt.</p> + +<p>Travellers are frequently obliged to submit to +inconvenience, and so were ours. The house +they inhabited was so old and out of repair, that +it appeared every moment as though ready to +fall on their heads: all the windows were shut +up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was +in so bad a condition, that scarcely a step was +left entire; the door was merely fastened by a +pole placed against it, having neither lock nor +any thing else to secure the entrance. There +were many rooms in the house, but the ceiling +in all of them was in a most threatening state. +The whole furniture consisted of a single mat, +in one of the best rooms, which they considered +as the drawing-room.</p> + +<p>No chairs are to be had in this country; so +they sat on the ground, and a box or a trunk +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">22</span>served as a table. Fortunately, they had a few +plates, as well as knives and forks; and James, +an Irish lad, whom they took with them, procured +a set of culinary articles.</p> + +<p>Such were the accommodations our enterprising +travellers met with at Boolac!</p> + +<p>Although Belzoni’s chief object was not to see +antiquities at that time, yet he felt desirous of +visiting the famous pyramids, which are at the +foot of those mountains that separate Egypt +from Libya.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The English gentleman who accompanied +Belzoni up the Nile obtained an escort +of soldiers from the Bashaw, and went +with him to the pyramids one evening, intending +to ascend one of them the following morning +to see the sun rise. Accordingly, they were on +the top long before the dawn of day. The +scene they beheld delighted them, being grand +and majestic beyond description. A mist over +the wide sandy plains formed a veil which vanished +gradually as the sun rose, and at length +opened to their view that beautiful land, once +the site of Memphis. The distant view of the +smaller pyramids, on the south, marked the extension +of that vast capital; while the solemn +spectacle of the immense sandy desert on the +west, stretching as far as the eye could reach, +inspired sublimer feelings. The fertile land on +the North, with the winding course of the Nile +descending towards the sea; the rich appearance +of Cairo and its glittering minarets; the +beautiful plain, which extends from the pyramids +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">23</span>to that city: the thick groves of palm-trees +in the midst of the fertile valley, altogether +formed a scene Belzoni was well calculated to +enjoy.</p> + +<p>There are steps on the outside of the pyramids +by which they can ascend.</p> + +<p>Having gratified his admiration, he went with +his friend round the next pyramid, examined +several of the mausoleums, and returned to +Cairo, highly delighted with having seen a wonder +they had long desired, but never supposed +they should have the pleasure of beholding.</p> + +<p>A few days after this time, a party was formed +to go to Sacara by water. After visiting the +pyramids at that place, they returned to Cairo, +except Mr. Turner, the English gentleman, and +Belzoni, who went on to Dajior, and examined +the remains of many other pyramids there. +When they came back to the Nile, it was quite +night, and they had to pass several villages before +they reached a place where they could embark +for Cairo. Their road lay through a cluster +of palm-trees, which, as the moon was just +rising, had a solemn effect. Some of the Arabs +were dancing to the usual tunes of their tambourines, +and, forgetting their masters, the +Turks, were happy for a time. At length, Belzoni +and his friend took a small boat, and arrived +in Cairo before morning. Two days after +this time, the former was to be presented to the +Bashaw on the subject of his hydraulic project.</p> + +<p>We should hope the Bashaw would be pleased +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">24</span>with it, after Belzoni had taken so much pains +to promote the comfort of his people. But +poor Belzoni met with an unfortunate accident, +which detained him for some time. He received +a violent blow on the leg, from a soldier who +was passing on horseback, and was obliged to +be taken to the convent of Terrasanta.</p> + +<p>It must have been very desolate to be laid up +at such a place; and yet the convent was, perhaps, +more comfortable than the old house at +Boolac. I think that cruel soldier had never +heard the golden rule, “Do as you would be +done by,” for the common feelings of humanity +were strangers to his bosom. Belzoni, however +was well enough in a few days to be presented +to the Bashaw.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I do not like to interrupt you, mamma; +but is the Bashaw in the place of a King? +What sort of government is it in Egypt?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The form of government in Egypt +is called an aristocracy, that is, a republican +state, wherein the supreme power is consigned +to nobles and peers. Since Egypt has been under +the dominion of the Turks, it has been +governed by a Bashaw, who resides at Cairo, +and who has under him inferior governors in +several parts of the country.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants of Egypt are composed of +different races of people. The Turks, who +think themselves entitled to be masters of the +country, because the Arabs (who were another +race) were conquered by them; then there are the +Copts, who are descended from the first Egyptians; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">25</span>as well as many others, under different +denominations.</p> + +<p>And now, having wandered from our subject +we will pursue it, and relate some of Belzoni’s +adventures.</p> + +<p>Adventures are delightful things, provided an +escape follows.</p> + +<p>Belzoni made an arrangement with the Bashaw, +and undertook to erect a machine which +would raise as much water with one ox as the +machines of the country with four.</p> + +<p>There was reason to expect that Mahomed +Ali might be of too indolent a disposition to admire +any thing new: he was a Turk you know, +and the Turks are famed for their indolence. +A person of an enervated turn of mind cannot +derive so much pleasure from a new project as +one of a more active disposition. Ali, however, +received our Belzoni very civilly, and was much +pleased with his proposition. And well he +might be, when he could foresee that, if put in +execution, it would spare the expense and labour +of many thousands of oxen.</p> + +<p>Belzoni now commenced his hydraulic machine. +It was to be erected in Soubra, at the +garden of the Bashaw, on the Nile, three miles +from Cairo. He had many difficulties to encounter, +Bernard; for the very persons who +were necessary to furnish him with wood, iron, +carpentry, and so on, unfortunately recollected +that they should be the first to suffer by it, if +the machine succeeded. However success is secure +unless energy fails, and Belzoni in time saw +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">26</span>his water machine completed. But as he was +some time at Soubra, perhaps you may like to +hear how he passed the intervals, when unoccupied +by his work.</p> + +<p>You see that a great deal depends upon the +turn which is given to our early pursuits. The +science of hydraulics first became familiar to +Belzoni when he was a boy in Rome. I dare +say he did not then think of going to Egypt?</p> + +<p>During his stay at Soubra, Belzoni became +acquainted with many Turks, and particularly +with the governor of the palace, as his house +was within his walls. The garden of the Bashaw +was under his care, and a guard was kept at +the gates. The seraglio is so situated that it +overlooks the Nile; at the back of it is a beautiful +garden under the care of the Greeks, and +kept in excellent order. It is ornamented with +green bowers overhung with flowering shrubs, +and alcoves in the form of little cupolas, around +which the fragrant plants twine their numerous +tendrils, whilst water machines constantly at +work, kept up a perpetual verdure. Belzoni’s +were not actually the <i>first</i> water machines in +use in Egypt, but much larger than any before +known there, and the best calculated to answer +any important purpose. You, Emily, who are +so fond of flowers, will perhaps smile at the +amusements which delight the Bashaw far more +highly than watching the progress of his shrubs +and plants. In the evening, when the sun is declining +in the west, he quits the seraglio, and +seats himself on the banks of the Nile, with his +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">27</span>guards, to fire at an earthen pot on the opposite +side.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="026over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/026over.jpg" alt="The Bashaw with rifle seated on the riverbank"> +</figure> + +<p>If Mahomed Ali be no botanist, he is an excellent +marksman; for I believe the river at +Soubra is wider than the Thames at Westminster +Bridge.</p> + +<p>When it is dark he retires into the garden, +and reposes in a shady alcove, or by the margin +of some bubbling fountain, with all his attendants +around him, who endeavour to amuse him, +and make him feel in good humour with himself, +whilst the murmuring of the waters, the lively +tunes of the musical instruments, and the soft +beams of the moon reflected upon the surface +of the Nile, heightened the pleasure of the scene. +Here Belzoni was often admitted, and thus had +an opportunity of observing the domestic life +of a man, who from nothing rose to be viceroy +of Egypt, and conqueror of the most powerful +tribes of Arabia.</p> + +<p>The Bashaw seemed to be well aware of the +benefit that might be derived from his encouraging +the arts of Europe in his country, and +had already reaped some of the fruits of it. +The manufacture of gunpowder, the refining of +sugar, the making of fine indigo, and the silk +manufacture were introduced much to his advantage; +he is constantly inquiring after something +new, and is delighted with any novelty. +He had heard of electricity, and he sent to England +for two electrical machines.</p> + +<p>Do you remember, Bernard, the shock you +all received from the one in papa’s study, when +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">28</span>you held a little chain, and Emily held your +hand, and Owen hers, and we all jumped together?</p> + +<p>One of Mahomed Ali’s machines was broken +by the way; the other was dismounted. No +one could be found who knew how to set it up. +Belzoni happened to be at the garden one night +when they were attempting it, and he was requested +to put the pieces together; having done +so, he desired one of the soldiers to mount the +insulating stool, when charging the machine, he +gave the Turk a good shock, who being thus +struck unawares, uttered a loud cry and jumped +off extremely terrified. The Bashaw laughed +at the man for doing so, supposing his alarm +was a pretence and not the effect of the machine; +and when told that it was actually occasioned +by the machine, he positively affirmed +that it could not be, for the soldier was at such +a distance that it was impossible the small chain +he held in his hand could have such power.</p> + +<p>Belzoni desired the interpreter to inform his +Highness that if he would have the goodness to +mount the stool, he would be convinced of the +fact. He hesitated a moment whether to believe +it or not; however he mounted the stool. +Belzoni charged well, put the little chain into +his hand, and gave him a smart shock. He +jumped off, like the soldier, on feeling the effect +of the electricity, and threw himself on the sofa, +laughing immoderately and unable to conceive +how the machine could have such power on the +human body.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="026under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/026under.jpg" alt="The Bashaw receives an electric shock"> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">29</span></p> + +<p>You may imagine how very droll Mahomed +Ali must have looked when he was standing upon +that little stool, and especially when he found +himself forced to jump off!</p> + +<p>The Arabs of Soubra display as much festivity +when a marriage of consequence takes +place, as those of any of the villages in Egypt. +One happened while Belzoni was there, and as +the windows of his house overlooked the spot +where it was performed, he had an opportunity +of witnessing the ceremony. Early in the morning +of the grand holiday, a high pole was reared +in the centre of the place with a banner or flag +belonging to the village. A large assembly of +people gathered under it, and preparations were +made for an illumination with glass lamps; +music was prepared, &c.</p> + +<p>The Arabs from other villages came to the +feast also, beating their tambourines and waving +their flags; but they remained at some distance +from the pole until invited to advance.</p> + +<p>The old people seated themselves around and +under the pole, and the strangers were placed +at a little distance. One of them began to sing, +while the rest divided themselves into two parties, +forming two circles, one within the other +round the pole, and facing each other.</p> + +<p>Each man put his arms over his neighbours’ +shoulders, and thus formed a chain. The outer +circle stood still, while the people of the inner +circle kept dancing and bowing in an orderly +manner to those on the outer. Thus they continued +three hours, and those who were not in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">30</span>the circles made separate rings by themselves. +This is the mode of dancing among the Arabs.</p> + +<p>All the women were at a distance by themselves, +and among them was the bride. When +the dancing and singing ended, they all sat down, +and a great quantity of boiled rice was brought +to them in wooden bowls, as well as some dishes +of melokie and bamies, which are plants eaten +in common by the Arabs as greens, and three +or four sheep roasted, which were soon torn to +pieces and devoured. A number of boys were +fully employed during the whole ceremony in +fetching water from the Nile. At night the little +coloured lamps were lighted, a band of tambourines +played continually, and the entertainment +ended as it had commenced, with a dance.</p> + +<p>And now, let us turn to Belzoni. He completed +his undertaking in time. The machine +was constructed on the principle of a crane +with a walking wheel, in which a single ox, by +its own weight alone, could effect as much as +four oxen employed in the machines of the country. +Belzoni managed to prepare it in spite of +the difficulties he had to encounter with the self-interested +workmen; he was of too enterprising +a disposition to give up a work which was the +chief cause of his going into that country.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Before you go on, mamma, will +you tell me what you mean by a crane?—there +is a picture of a crane in my Bewick—but I +cannot at all make out what is meant by a <i>crane +with a walking wheel</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The crane of which I speak, Bernard,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">31</span> +is not a <i>bird</i>—but a machine used in building, +for raising and lowering huge stones, heavy +weights, and sometimes water, you see. It is a +technical term in mechanics, and I will try by +and bye to explain to you what is meant by a +crane with a walking wheel.</p> + +<p>The Bashaw came to Soubra to examine the +hydraulic machine. It was set to work and +succeeded admirably, drawing in the same space +of time six or seven times as much water as the +common machines.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="030over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/030over.jpg" alt="The Bashaw examining the hydraulic machine"> +</figure> + +<p>Belzoni thought himself well repaid. And the +Egyptian farmers might now sow their seed +without being afraid of a famine—even if the +Nile did not overflow, they could raise water, +and water their fields so well.</p> + +<p>Our best endeavours, however, though they +sometimes appear at first crowned with success, +may afterwards defeat the purpose for which +they were intended. So it was with those of +our ingenious friend. The Bashaw took it into +his head to have the oxen taken out of the +wheel, in order to see, by way of frolic, what +effect the machine would have by putting fifteen +men into it. Poor James, the Irish lad you +know, had entered along with them, but no sooner +had the wheel turned once round than they +all jumped out, leaving the boy alone in it. +The wheel, of course, overbalanced by the +weight of the water, turned back with such velocity +that the catch was unable to stop it. +James was thrown out, and in the fall broke +one of his thighs. Belzoni contrived to stop +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">32</span>the wheel before it did farther injury, which +might have been fatal to him.</p> + +<p>The Turks are so superstitious, that they considered +such an accident happening to a new invention +as a bad omen—and thus Belzoni’s ingenuity +was thrown away. The Bashaw was +persuaded to abandon the affair, and the project +of Belzoni being thus consigned to oblivion, he +turned his thoughts to the antiquities of the +country, and, possessing a spirit for investigation, +determined to make some researches.</p> + +<p>A gentleman of the name of Burckhardt, had +for a long time premeditated the removal of a +colossal bust, known by the name of young +Memnon, to England, and had often tried to +persuade Ali to send it as a present to his Majesty; +however, the Turk did not suppose it +worth sending to so great a person. But Belzoni, +knowing how much that gentleman wished +it, proposed to undertake its conveyance from +Thebes to Alexandria, and, with the Bashaw’s +consent, to forward it from thence to England. +He now, therefore, prepared to go up the Nile. +He was then at Soubra, three miles from Cairo. +It was intended to present this immense statue +to the British Museum, and he was directed to +search for it on the southern side of a ruined +temple, in the vicinity of a village called Gournou, +near Carnac. You can trace the course +of the Nile from Cairo, upon the map, until you +find Carnac just by Thebes. Gournou is near +it.</p> + +<p>Belzoni was requested to spare neither expense +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">33</span>nor trouble, in getting it as speedily conveyed +to the banks of the river as possible. So +he hired a boat, with four sailors, a boy, and a +captain. Every thing was soon ready for their +departure from Soubra. The whole of the implements, +for the operation of removing the +bust, consisted of a few poles and ropes of palm-leaves. +Mrs. Belzoni accompanied her husband, +and they agreed to stay and examine any ruins +they might pass on the road. James, the Irish +boy was, happily, able to accompany them. +And now, you must follow their course on the +map, from Boolac, where they embarked, to +Thebes. In six days they arrived at Siout, the +capital of Upper Egypt, and from thence they +went to Acmin, where they landed to visit the +fathers of a convent: and again proceeded, with +curiosity highly raised, towards the noted temple +of Tentyra. This is the first Egyptian temple +the traveller sees, on ascending the Nile, as +well as the most magnificent.</p> + +<p>It is two miles from the Nile, and Belzoni and +his party having landed, set off on asses, and +proceeded to the ruins. Little could be seen +of the temple, till they were near it, as it is surrounded +by high mounds of rubbish.</p> + +<p>When he arrived there, he was for some time +at a loss to know in what part to begin his examinations. +The numerous objects before him +struck him with surprise and astonishment—the +immense masses of stone employed in the +edifice—the majestic appearance of its construction—the +variety of its ornaments, and the excellent +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">34</span>preservation in which he found it, had +such an effect on Belzoni, that he seated himself +on the ground, lost in delight and admiration.</p> + +<p>This temple is the cabinet of the Egyptian +arts,—and it is supposed to have been built during +the reign of the first Ptolemy. It is not +improbable that he who studied to render himself +beloved by his people, might erect such an +edifice to convince the Egyptians of his superiority +of mind over the ancient kings of Egypt, +even in religious devotion.</p> + +<p>It will take us too long to describe this famous +temple minutely. When Mr. and Mrs. +Belzoni had gratified their curiosity, they returned +to their little boat, and embarked for Thebes. +They will soon have reached the end of their +voyage, and then for the great colossal bust.</p> + +<p>Belzoni says, that it is impossible to imagine +the scene displayed by the extensive ruins at +Thebes. It appeared to him, on entering it, +like a city of giants, who were all destroyed, +leaving only the remains of various temples, as +proofs of their former existence. The attention +is attracted on one side, by towering ruins, that +project above a noble wood of palm-trees, and +there the traveller enters an endless number of +temples, columns, obelisks, and portals. On +every side he finds himself among wonders. +The immense colossal figures in the plains, the +number of tombs hollowed in the rocks, those +in the great valley of the kings, with their paintings, +sculptures, mummies, and figures, are all +objects worthy of admiration, and one cannot +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">35</span>fail to wonder how a nation, which was once so +great as to erect these stupendous edifices, could +so far fall into oblivion, that even its language +and writing are totally unknown to us.</p> + +<p>Having taken a survey of this seat of ancient +grandeur, Belzoni crossed the Nile, and bent his +way towards the ruined temple, near Gournou. +It stands elevated above the plain; he entered +the groups of columns, regarding the numerous +tombs excavated in the high rock behind them, +and his first thought was to examine the bust he +had to take away.</p> + +<p>He found it on the southern side of the temple, +near the remains of its body and chair with +the face upwards. It was beautiful, and of immense +size. Laura, who has seen it in the British +Museum, will be able to give you a more accurate +account of it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—I cannot imagine, mamma, how +Belzoni could attempt to remove it; you know +he had only some poles, and some ropes of palm-leaves—and +palm-ropes, made ever so strong, +would not be able to support such a weight. I +think he had better have contrived a car, somewhat +like that the African sheep has to rest its +tail upon, in “Church’s cabinet,”—and by this +means he might have brought it to the Nile, and +then had it placed in a boat, and conveyed to +Cairo.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—No bad scheme, my little boy! +Belzoni’s whole set of implements consisted of +fourteen poles, eight of which he did employ in +making a car, similar to what you have proposed; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">36</span>four ropes of palm-leaves, and four rollers—they +were better than wheels; and he now +began to be very busy.</p> + +<p>As the bust was some way from the Nile, it +would have been too far for them to go to sleep +in the boat every night; so a small hut was +formed for them with stones, among the ruins +of the temple. They were not very handsomely +lodged, but perhaps they found this little hut +as comfortable as the shabby old house at Boolac, +which they were always expecting to fall +upon their heads, and both our travellers were +used to put up with inconvenient things.</p> + +<p>The season at which time the Nile usually +overflows was fast approaching, and all of +the lands which extend from the temple to the +water side, would have been covered in the +course of a month—The ground between the +bust and the river was very uneven, so that unless +it had been conveyed over those places before +the inundation commenced, it would have +been impossible to have affected it. Belzoni, +therefore, lost no time. With some difficulty he +procured a number of men, and agreed to give +them thirty paras a day, which is equal to fourpence +halfpenny English money, if they would +undertake to assist him. A carpenter made a +car, somewhat like that which supports the tail +of your African sheep, Bernard, only very +large, and the first operation was to place the +bust upon this simple carriage. The people of +Gournou, who were familiar with Caphany, as +they named it, were persuaded that it could +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">37</span>never be removed from the spot where it lay +and when they saw, what to them appeared so +impossible, they set up a shout, and could not +believe that it was the effect of their own efforts. +The next thing was to place it on the +car. Can you guess how Belzoni managed this +business?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—I fancy, that he bound the palm-leaf +ropes round and round Caphany very fast, +and very firmly, and then the men tried and +tried, until they had lifted him up, and placed +him upon it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Ah, my little friend! you do not +evince much knowledge of mechanical powers, +or you could not suppose that this image would +be moved by mere personal strength. Now, +Owen, what is your opinion?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I should think, that by means of +levers, the bust might be raised so as to leave a +vacancy under it, and then the car might be introduced +by some of the people, who were +standing ready. After Caphany had been lodged +on this, the car itself might be raised so as +to get one of the rollers beneath, and if the +same operation were performed at the back, he +would be ready to be pulled up:—and then, if +you please, Bernard, your palm-leaf ropes may +come in use, to tie him to the carriage, and +draw him along.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—This is the very method Belzoni +pursued, and when he had succeeded in getting +it removed some yards from its original place, he +sent an Arab to Cairo, with the intelligence that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">38</span>the bust had begun its journey to England. Our +ingenious friend reminds me of a remark made +by a celebrated writer, “that it is by small efforts +frequently repeated, that man completes +his greatest undertaking, to have attempted +which, at <i>one</i> effort would have baffled his ability,” +for he had still many difficulties to encounter. +When the Arabs found that they received +money for the removal of a stone, they fancied +that it was filled with gold in the inside, and +that a thing of such value ought not to be permitted +to be taken away.</p> + +<p>However, the next day, and the next, and the +next, Caphany advanced slowly forwards, and +after many delays, owing to the softness of the +sand, and to the desertion of some of the workmen, +the fear of an inundation, &c. Belzoni had +the gratification of seeing his young Memnon +arrive on the banks of the Nile.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="030under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/030under.jpg" alt="The bust being drawn on its carriage"> +</figure> + +<p>Thus, you see perseverance is generally +crowned with success. But it yet remained to +put the colossus in a boat; it had a long, long +way to go down the Nile before it could arrive +at Cairo, and Belzoni intended to stop there to +show it to Mahomed Ali.</p> + +<p>But no boat is to be had. We must therefore +leave the bust for the present, and accompany +him, if you please, into one of the caves that +are scattered about the mountains of Gournou, +and are so celebrated for the quantities of +mummies they contain: he wished to see a +famous sarcophagus which was in one of them, +and thither he went. You know that mummies +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">39</span>are the bodies of dead persons, which have +been wrapped up, in a great many bandages to +preserve them, and a sarcophagus is a sort of +tomb or coffin.⁠<a id="FNanchor_1_1" href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>Two Arabs and an interpreter accompanied +Belzoni. Previous to entering the cave, they +took off the greater part of their clothes, and +each having a candle, advanced through a cavity +in the rock, which extended a considerable +length in the mountain, sometimes high, sometimes +very narrow, and sometimes so low that +Belzoni and his attendants were obliged to creep +on their hands and knees. Thus they went on +till he perceived that they were at a great distance +from the entrance, and the way was so +intricate that he depended entirely on the two +Arabs to conduct him out again. His situation +now was not to be envied—you know Arabs +are sometimes treacherous.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="038over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/038over.jpg" alt="Belzoni and attendants in the cave"> +</figure> + +<p>At length they arrived at a large place into +which many other holes or cavities opened, and +after some examination by the Arabs, they entered +one of them which was very narrow, and +continued downward for a long way, through a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">40</span>craggy passage, till they came where two other +apertures led to the interior in a horizontal direction. +One of the Arabs then said “This is +the place.”</p> + +<p>This might well have startled Belzoni, for he +was far from the light of day—in a dark craggy +passage in the midst of a dismal mummy cave, +and attended only by two Arabs and one other +man!—However, the Arab only intended to +point out this spot as being the situation of the +sarcophagus, but Belzoni could not conceive how +any thing so large as it had been described to +him could have been taken through so small an +aperture. He had no doubt but these recesses +were burial places, as skulls and bones were +strewed in all directions; but the sarcophagus +could never have entered an aperture which +even Belzoni himself could not penetrate. One +of the Arabs, however, succeeded, as did the +interpreter, and it was agreed that Belzoni and +the other Arab should wait their return. They +certainly proceeded to a great distance, for the +light disappeared and only a murmuring sound +from their voices could be distinguished as they +went on. After a few moments a loud noise +was heard, and the interpreter distinctly crying, +“<i>O mon Dieu! mon Dieu! Je suis perdu!</i>”—a +solemn silence ensued.</p> + +<p>Belzoni asked the Arab whether he had ever +been in that place. He replied “<i>Never.</i>”</p> + +<p>He judged it to be his best plan to return and +procure help from the other Arabs. He wished +to do so, but when he desired the man to show +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">41</span>him the way out again, he said he did not know +the road—he then called—no answer was returned—all +was still as death—he watched for a +long time—no candle appeared, and his own +was almost burnt out.</p> + +<p>This was an adventure indeed, he began to +think the Arabs had some design on his life and +he endeavoured to find his way to the entrance?—It +was a complete labyrinth; however, he +managed to return through some of the passages +to that place, where, as I told you just now, +there were many cavities. Here, again he was +puzzled; but at last, seeing one which appeared +to be right, they proceeded through it a long +way. Their candles appeared likely to leave +them in the dark, and in that case their situation +would have been yet more deplorable. He +did not like to put out one of the candles to save +it, for fear the other might be extinguished by +some accident.</p> + +<p>At this time, supposing themselves near the +outside of the tomb, what was their disappointment +on finding there was no outlet, and that +they must retrace their steps to that place +whence they had entered this cavity. They +strove to regain it, but were as perplexed as +ever, and were both exhausted from the ascents +and descents which they were obliged to pass. +The Arab seated himself, but every moment of +delay was dangerous.</p> + +<p>In going in Belzoni had thought to preserve +a clue to the passage by putting a mark at the +entrance of each cavity as he examined it, but +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">42</span>unfortunately their candles were not long enough +to last so many researches. However, hope, the +cheering star of life, darts a ray of light through +the thickest gloom, and, encouraged by it, they +began their operations. On the second, attempt, +when passing before a small, aperture, +Belzoni fancied he heard something like the +roaring of the sea at a distance. In consequence +they entered this opening, and as they +advanced the noise increased, till they could distinctly +hear a number of voices all at one time.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—What joy this must have given +them!—as much joy as it gave Owen to hear +papa’s voice in the wood, when he was lost +whilst we were gathering nuts last summer—perhaps +more; for I am sure I would rather be +lost in a nice green wood than in an Egyptian +mummy cave! Go on dear mamma.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—At last they walked out, and to +their no small surprise, the first person who presented +himself was the interpreter. How he +came to be there seemed astonishing. He told +them, that in proceeding with the Arab along +the passage below, they came to a pit which +they did not see, and that the Arab fell into it, +and in falling put out both candles. It was then +that he cried out, “<i>Mon Dieu! je suis perdu!</i>” +as he thought he also should have fallen into the +pit; but, on raising his head, he saw at a great +distance a glimpse of daylight, towards which +he advanced, and thus arrived at a small aperture. +He then scraped away some loose sand +and stones, to widen the place where he came +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">43</span>out, and went to give the alarm to the Arabs, +who were at the other entrance. Being all +concerned for the man who fell to the bottom of +the pit, it was their noise Belzoni had heard in +the cave. The place by which the interpreter +had escaped was instantly widened, and in the +confusion the Arabs did not regard letting Belzoni +see that they were acquainted with <i>that</i> +entrance, and that it had lately been shut up. +He was not long in detecting their scheme. +They had intended to show him the sarcophagus +without letting him see the way by which it +might be taken out, and then to stipulate a price +for the secret; as it was in reality but one hundred +yards from the great entrance.</p> + +<p>With this view they had taken him that roundabout +way. They paid dear for their intended +deception. The man was taken out of the well, +but so much hurt as to be lame ever after. Thus +the Arabs defeated their own purpose, and proved +that self-interest indeed is blind. When +men stoop to the meanness of equivocation or +deceit, especially in hopes of promoting their +own good, they are artful but not wise; for, as +we can only judge of the circumstances of the +present moment, and cannot foresee consequences, +it is very likely, as it proved with the Arabs, +that our cunning will bring us into still greater +difficulties. It is also certain to deprive us of +confidence in the protecting care of providence, +which, as I have often told you, is the greatest +support and comfort in every trouble.</p> + +<p>Well, Bernard, do you regret Laura’s having +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">44</span>taken a sketch in Egypt instead of having drawn +the spokes of the wheels of your little cart?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Oh, no, mamma—never mind the +spokes! I like your account very much. But +where is Caphany all this time, with his palm-leaf-ropes?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Two guards were attending him by +night and by day. Belzoni at length sent to +Cairo for a boat, but as he knew it could not +arrive for some time, he formed an enclosure +of earth all around the bust, and spent the mean +time in visiting various antiquities. His courage +was not daunted by the peril he had passed +through; many people would not have ventured +into mummy caves at all events, again. But he +preserved his mind from fear by not indulging it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Right! right! I like Belzoni, because +he possessed real courage—did he not, mamma?—real +fortitude! although he was a little terrified +when alone with the Arab, in that dismal +place, yet he did not let that fear prevent his +undertaking other projects. When I am a man, +mother, I mean to be a traveller, and to possess +as much perseverance as <i>our Belzoni</i>!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Experience will teach you, my love, +that it is not a very easy thing for one unaccustomed +to an arduous life, to pass on a sudden +from the midst of comfort and indulgence +to one that is so irregular.</p> + +<p>Belzoni determined to go up the Nile into +Nubia, and to leave the bust where it was during +his absence. He sent James to Cairo, and discharged +the carpenter, so that a small party +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">45</span>only remained, and they set off from Esne, which +is only a few miles from Thebes. There they +landed just in time to see Khalil Bey, with whom +they had become acquainted some time before +in Soubra; and who was appointed to the government +of the Upper Provinces from Esne +to Assouan.</p> + +<p>He was just returned from an excursion into +the country, was much pleased to see Belzoni, +and received him very politely. Our traveller +found him with his pipe and coffee, seated on a +sofa made of earth, and covered with a fine carpet +and satin cushions, surrounded by a great +number of his chiefs, Cacheffs and Santons. +Khalil Bey was an Albanian, but his mode of +life was similar to that of the Egyptians in general, +which I will describe to you in another +chapter.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="038under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/038under.jpg" alt="Belzoni meets Khalil Bey"> +</figure> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p>FOOTNOTE:</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<p><a id="Footnote_1_1" href="#FNanchor_1_1" class="label">[1]</a> +At Peale’s New York Museum there is a mummy which +was taken with the double coffin from one of the tombs discovered +by Belzoni at Thebes. Part of the bandages having +been removed, one side of the head and the shoulder of the +body are exposed to view. It is thought to be now more than +2000 years old and believed to have been a person of great distinction, +from the careful and expensive manner in which it is +preserved. It is wrapped in sixty-three thicknesses of linen +and inclosed in two coffins of sycamore wood ornamented with +carving and hieroglyphics.</p></div> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II"> + CHAPTER II. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Egyptian Customs.—Belzoni goes up the Nile to Nubia.—Visits +the Island of Elephantis.—Arrives at Ybsambul.—Attempts +to open its magnificent Temple.—Obliged for want of time and +money to give up the project.—Visits the little island of +Mainarty.—Danger on the Cataract.—Returns to Thebes.—Removal +of Young Memnon to Cairo.—Belzoni resides for +a short time at Rosetta.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p>The Egyptian rises with the sun to enjoy the +morning air; his favourite pipe and beverage +are brought him, and he reclines at ease on his +sofa. Slaves, with their arms crossed, remain +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">46</span>silent at the far end of the chamber, with their +eyes fixed on him, seeking to anticipate his +smallest wants. His children, standing in his +presence, unless he permits them to be seated, +preserve every appearance of tenderness and +respect: he gravely caresses them, gives them +his blessing, and sends them back to the harem. +He only questions, and they reply with modesty; +they are not allowed that free intercourse with +their parents which you enjoy. But custom, +you know, reconciles us to every thing. The +little natives of that country having never known +the pleasures of social enjoyment and tender +intercourse with their parents, of course cannot +lament their loss.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I think, mamma, that the Egyptian +father appears to be the chief, the judge, and the +pontiff of his family! But does he spend the +rest of the day reclining on his sofa?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Breakfast ended, he transacts the +business of his trade or office. When visiters +come, he receives them without many compliments, +but in an endearing manner. His equals +are seated beside him, with their legs crossed; +his inferiors kneel, and sit upon their heels.</p> + +<p>People of distinction are favoured with a +place on a raised sofa, whence they overlook +the company. When every person is placed, +the slaves bring pipes and coffee, and set the +perfume brazier in the middle of the chamber +the air of which is impregnated with its odours, +and afterwards present sweetmeats and sherbet.</p> + +<p>When the visit is almost ended, a slave, bearing +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">47</span>a silver plate, on which precious essences +are burning, goes round to the company; each, +in turn, perfumes the beard, and then sprinkles +rose-water on the head and hands. This being +the last ceremony, the guests are permitted to +retire.</p> + +<p>About noon the table is prepared, and the refreshments +are brought in a large tray of tinned +copper, and, though not great variety, there is +great plenty. In the centre is generally a dish +of rice cooked with poultry, and highly flavoured +with spice and saffron. Round this are hashed +meats, pigeons, stuffed cucumbers, and delicious +melons and fruits. The guests seat themselves +on a carpet round the table: a slave brings +water in one hand, and a basin in the other, to +wash. This is an indispensable ceremony, +where each person puts his hand into the dish, +and where the use of forks is unknown: it is repeated +when the meal is ended. After dinner +they retire to the harem, where they slumber +some hours among their wives and children.... +Such is the ordinary life of the Egyptians.</p> + +<p>This appears to be a monotonous way of +spending their time; our intellectual pleasures +are unknown to them. The days appear to be +passed in repeating the same thing, in following +the same customs, without a wish or a thought +beyond. But we must remember, that nine +months of the year the body is oppressed by +heat; and that, as inaction under a temperate +climate is painful, so here repose is enjoyment. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">48</span>Effeminate indolence is born with the Egyptian, +grows as he grows, and descends with him to +the grave. It influences his inclinations and governs +his actions, and, far from daily wishing to +obtain knowledge and enlarge the mental powers +he sighs only for calm tranquillity.</p> + +<p>Now, we will go back to Belzoni; we left +him at Esne, with Khalil Bey. After smoking +a few pipes, and drinking as many cups of coffee, +he left the Bey and returned to the boat. The +following day they continued their voyage, and +arrived at Edfu, where a temple, which might +be compared with that of Tentyra, tempted our +antiquary to land. Having been highly gratified +here, they proceeded to Ombos: the ruins +that are left at this place gave them a clear idea +of what it has been. Our party proceeded, +and, before their arrival at Assouan, landed on +the western bank of the Nile. Here the country +presented a more pleasing aspect than any +they had passed since the Chained Mountains. +Palm-trees in great abundance grow on each +side of the river, and some cultivated spots of +ground extend from the Nile to the mountains. +The old town of Assouan stands on a hill, which +overhangs the river; on its left is a forest of +palm-trees, which hides the modern town; and +on its right is the distant view of a granite +mountain, that forms the first of the celebrated +cataracts. The island of Elephantine seems to +interfere with the barrenness of the western +banks, and fills the ground with picturesque +groups of various trees. Our travellers landed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">49</span>at the foot of a hill on the left of the Nile, and +went to see the ruins of a convent on a high +rock where they observed many grottoes, +which had served as chapels for Christian worship. +The convent is formed of several small +arched cells, distinct from each other, and commands +a view of the cataract and adjacent +country, with the lower part of the Nile.</p> + +<p>When Belzoni returned to the boat, the sun +was tinging the horizon with its last beams, and +the shades of the western mountains had reached +across the Nile and covered the town. He +found the Aga (a person employed by the Turkish +Government) and all his retinue seated on +a mat, under a cluster of palm-trees, close to the +water. Belzoni made application to him for a +boat to carry him to Nubia, and presented to +him some tobacco, soap, and coffee, which were +gladly accepted: he was a selfish sort of person, +and asked a great price for the use of the boat; +engaging, however, that one should be ready +in a day or two.</p> + +<p>The next morning Belzoni went to see the +isle of Elephantine; he crossed the Nile in a +wee-wee bark, made of the branches of palm-trees, +fastened together with small cords, and +covered on the outside with a mat, pitched all +over. The principal object of attraction there +was a temple of great antiquity, built on rocks +of blue granite: on the western bank of the island +are many trees of cassia and sycamore. +Having gratified his curiosity, Belzoni returned; +and, as the Aga’s boat was now in readiness, he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">50</span>determined to ascend the Nile to the second +cataract, during the interval required for the +arrival of the boat from Cairo, which was to +convey the colossal bust. They therefore embarked, +and, on the following morning, long before +the rising of the sun, Belzoni stood at the +stern, waiting for its first beams to unveil the +beautiful island of Philoe; and he had much +gratification in taking a hasty view of its ruins, +without stopping to examine them minutely, as +he hoped to return that way; he, however, observed +several blocks of stones, and an obelisk, +which he thought might be easily removed. +Philoe is in the middle of the Nile, somewhat +south of Assouan.</p> + +<p>As the wind was favourable, they again set +sail, and arrived in the course of a few days at +Deir, which is the capital of Lower Nubia. +This town consists of several groups of houses +built of earth intermixed with stones, and covered +with reeds. Their height is generally +about eight or ten feet: the height of the parlour +we are in is between eight and ten feet. +At the foot of the sloping and rocky hill is a +small temple; but Belzoni could not go to see +it, as he observed that they were closely watched, +the reason for which was soon apparent.</p> + +<p>Belzoni went immediately to Hassan Cacheff, +who received him with an air of suspicion, and +wanted to know his business. He told him he +ascended the Nile merely to seek for antiquities, +and that he wished to proceed as far as the +Shellal, or second cataract. This, the Cacheff +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">51</span>said, was impossible; for the people in the upper +country were at war with each other. He +then ordered his mat to be brought to him, seated +himself close before the door of his house, +and invited Belzoni to sit also. The first question +he asked him was, whether he had any coffee. +Belzoni replied, that they had a little on +board for their own use, but that he should have +half of it. He next asked for soap, and received +the same reply. Then he inquired if they +had any tobacco: Belzoni said that he had a +few pipes, and they would smoke together. +This pleased Hassan Cacheff. The next question +was, whether he had any powder; and the +answer he received was, that they had very little, +and could not spare any. At this, Hassan +laughed, and putting his hands on Belzoni’s +shoulder, said, “You are English, and can make +powder wherever you go.”</p> + +<p>By this time, the tobacco was brought, and +the operation of smoking began. Hassan still persisted +in it that Belzoni’s sailors would not advance +any farther; for they were afraid, he said, +to go into the upper country. Our friend, unwilling +to give up his point, used every means of entreaty; +and at length frankly told him, that, if he +would allow him to pursue his journey, he would +make him a very handsome present of a fine looking-glass. +Hassan replied, “We will talk of this +to-morrow;” and the indefatigable Belzoni returned +to the boat.</p> + +<p>A looking-glass was a novelty to the Cacheff; +Belzoni, therefore went again to him early in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">52</span>the morning, and told him that it was ready for +his acceptance, provided he would give him a +letter of recommendation to his brother at +Ybsambul, which at last he did, for Hassan +thought his looking-glass a great treasure. The +reason why Belzoni happened to take such a +thing with him, was, that, previous to his departure +from Cairo, he had taken care to obtain +all the information possible respecting the country +of Nubia, from the natives who came to +that city with dates and charcoal; and from +them he learned, that a looking-glass and a few +beads would be as valuable in their eyes as gold +and diamonds in ours.</p> + +<p>The Cacheff’s looking-glass was about twelve +inches square, and made a great impression on +the people there, who had never seen so large a +one before. The Cacheff was never tired of +admiring his dark coloured countenance, and all +the attendants behind him strove to get a peep +at their own tawny beauty.</p> + +<p>Belzoni, entering the boat again, proceeded +down the Nile till he arrived at Ybsambul, +where two temples presented attractions. I +must describe them, because they were the objects +of another voyage up the Nile. In the +front of the minor temple were six colossal figures +thirty feet high, and hewn out of the rock; +as was also the large temple, which had one figure +of an enormous size, with the head and +shoulders only projecting out of the sand, and +most beautifully executed. On the upper part +or frieze of the temple was a line of hieroglyphics, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">53</span>which covered the whole front, and above +this a range of figures, in a sitting posture, as +large as life. The sand on the north side, accumulated +behind on the rock above the temple, +had gradually descended towards its front, +choked the entrance, and buried two-thirds of +it. When Belzoni approached this temple, the +hope he had formed of entering it vanished at +once; for the heaps of sand were such as to +make it appear an impossibility ever to reach +the door. He ascended a hill of sand at the upper +part of the temple, and there found the head +of a hawk projecting out of the sand only to its +neck. From the situation of this figure, he concluded +that it was over the door; but how to +get to that door was the grand difficulty, for you +know it was necessary to remove the sand in +such a direction, that it might fall off from the +front of the door, but in doing this, the sand +from above would continue to fall on the place +whence that below was removed, and thus render +it an almost endless task. Besides, the natives +were like wild people, and knew nothing +of working for money; indeed, they were ignorant +of money altogether.</p> + +<p>All these difficulties seemed such insurmountable +objects that they almost deterred Belzoni +from the thought of proceeding; yet perseverance, +stimulated by hope, suggested to him such +means, that at last, after much exertion, and two +voyages thither, he had the satisfaction of entering +the great temple of Ybsambul.</p> + +<p>By calculating, Belzoni supposed the door I +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">54</span>mentioned to be thirty-five feet below the sand; +and having taken a proper measurement of the +front of the temple, he found that if he could +persuade the people to work with persevering +steadiness, he might succeed in the undertaking.</p> + +<p>Wishing first to apply to the Cacheff of Ybsambul +to obtain his good will if possible, he did +not examine the smaller temple that night, but +followed the road between the rocks of which +it is hewn, and arrived on the banks of the Nile, +where they embarked, and soon landed at the +village. A group of people who were assembled +under a grove of palm-trees seemed somewhat +surprised at the arrival of a stranger. Belzoni +desired to see Osseyn Cacheff, telling them +that he had a letter for him from his brother, the +Cacheff of Deir.</p> + +<p>He for some time received no answer, but at +last was told that he who sat there was Daoud +his son. This was a man about fifty years of +age, clad in a light blue gown, with a white rag +on his head as a turban, seated upon an old mat +on the ground, a long sword and a gun by his +side, with about twenty men surrounding him, +who were well armed with swords, spears and +shields.</p> + +<p>Daoud Cacheff begged to know what business +had brought Belzoni there? He replied that he +had a letter from his uncle directed to his father, +and that he came into that country in search of +ancient stones. Daoud laughed, and said that a +few months before he had seen another man +who came from Cairo in search of treasure, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">55</span>took away a great deal of gold in his boat, and +that Belzoni came for the same purpose, not to +take stones. What could he have to do with +stones, if it were not to procure gold from +them?</p> + +<p>Belzoni told Daoud that the stones he wished +to take away were broken pieces belonging to +the old Pharaoh people, and that his motive for +coming in search of them was to know whether +our ancestors came from that country. He then +asked where he meant to go in search of these +stones. Belzoni said, that the place in the rock +had a door, and that by removing the sand they +might enter the temple, and should perhaps find +many stones there, and accordingly proposed to +have it opened. After some difficulty, he managed +to convince the people of the value of +money, for they had never heard of such a +thing, having been accustomed to exchange various +articles, and Daoud at length consented to +find workmen, provided Belzoni would give +them each two piastres a day, which he consented +to do.</p> + +<p>Daoud was rather more reasonable than his +uncle Hassan, who required so many presents +before he would allow Belzoni to continue his +voyage. But there now remained consent to +be obtained from Osseyn Cacheff, Daoud’s father. +This was the greatest difficulty; he lived +at Eshke, a mile and a half up the Nile. To +secure his favour (for favour in this land may +often be procured by bribes,) Belzoni sent forwards +to him some rice, sugar, and tobacco; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">56</span>and received on board in the evening some sour +milk and warm thin cake of dhourra bread.</p> + +<p>Dhourra is the common grain of Egypt. The +bread is baked on a flat stone raised at each corner +so as to admit a fire under it, the paste which +is soft being laid on it, spreads in a minute over +the stone; as soon as one cake is baked another +is done in the same manner, and so on, and this +dhourra bread forms the general food of the +country.</p> + +<p>They went the next morning to the residence +of the Cacheff at Eshke, and were told that he +was from home, but would return in a few days. +This occasioned some disappointment; but as +Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni did not wish to return to +Ybsambul without having had an interview with +him, they went on towards the second Cataract, +and about nine, two mornings after they had left +Eshke, they made for the shore as near as possible +to the last cultivated land on the left, at a +place called Wady Halfa.</p> + +<p>A few of the natives came to look at the +strangers, and at Belzoni’s request they willingly +brought asses for them to ride to the Cataract; +and now, Bernard, place yourself on your +own little Smiler, and fancy yourself one of the +party. Proceed to the Cataract, and take several +views in different directions. Mount the +rocks, and take a survey of the wide sandy deserts. +Observe the wild antelopes that are +skipping about on the crags of the few black +cliffs which project here and there, and having +enjoyed the grand prospect afforded by this Cataract, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">57</span>and as the sun again is sinking beneath +the horizon, return to the little bark. From +thence, you may accompany Mr. and Mrs. Belzoni, +who immediately crossed for the isle of +Mainarty, where they arrived at dusk. They +saw fires and people at a distance, but on landing +could not find any one. The huts were left +with all they had, which consisted only of dry +dates, and a kind of paste made of the same, +which they kept in large vases of clay baked in +the sun, and covered with baskets made of +palm-leaves; a baking stove, and a mat to sleep +upon, comprised the whole of their furniture. +They little expected visiters at such a time, you +may suppose they were honest themselves, as +they did not suspect their neighbours.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The whole of the island is about an +eighth of a mile in length and half as much in +breadth. The whole settlement consisted of +four men and seven women, with two or three +children. They have no communication with +the main land, except when the water is low, +for at any other time, the current, being just +under the Cataract, is so rapid that it is impossible +to ford it, and boats never go to this island. +They are poor but happy, knowing nothing of +the enticing luxuries of the world, and resting +content with what Providence supplies, as the +reward of their industry. They have a few +sheep and goats, which supply them with milk, +and the few spots of land they have are all cultivated, +producing a little dhourra, which you +know is the principal food they require. The +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">58</span>wool of their sheep they spin into yarn; they +wind the thread round little stones, and thus +suspend them to a long stick fixed in a horizontal +position between two trees, to form a warp; +and by passing another thread alternately between +these, fabricate a kind of coarse cloth, +with which they make their dress.</p> + +<p>It was quite dark when Belzoni found this +poor and truly happy people. They had lighted +a fire to make their bread, and the light of this +fire directed him to the spot where they were. +I suppose they had been terrified by having seen +him at a distance, for they were all hid in a hole, +under some ruins of an old castle, which stands +on the south side of the island, and when he approached +them, the women set up a loud scream. +A person who was with him, a native of Nubia, +could talk their language, and managed to pacify +them, but could not entice more than one man +out of the hole.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="058over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/058over.jpg" alt="The Belzonis at the ruins"> +</figure> + +<p>Their fear was owing to some depredations +committed by the robbers of Wady Halfa a few +years before, who at low water forded over to +the island, and did all the injury that could be +done to such people. The strangers assured +them that they were not like the robbers of +Wady Halfa, but only came to get some one to +show them the way to the Cataract. At this +they were more alarmed than ever, and said that +it never happened that boats passed higher than +Wady Halfa,—it being impossible to proceed +farther, owing to the quantity of rocky islands. +At last, however, they prevailed upon two of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">59</span>the men to accompany them the following morning, +and pilot them towards the Cataract as far +as the boat could go.</p> + +<p>According to agreement, they went on board, +and with a strong north wind advanced in their +little bark until they found themselves so tossed +about by the different currents and eddies, as to +prevent a farther progress; and at the same +time so situated, that they could not return back +for fear of being driven against some of the +rocks which threatened them on each side. +They were in a deplorable situation again. +Unable to go backwards or forwards—but no +deceitful Arabs were with them this time.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="058under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/058under.jpg" alt="The Belzonis' boat fighting the current"> +</figure> + +<p>They were confined to one spot for about an +hour. Sometimes they had a rapid start for +a hundred yards, then, all at once, were stopped +and turned round in spite of all their efforts, +and of the north wind which blew very hard. +At last they were caught on a sudden in one of +the eddies of water, and driven against a sharp +rock concealed about two feet below the surface. +The shock was dreadful: it is impossible +to describe Belzoni’s emotions, for he thought at +the moment that the boat was split in two—and +the object of his tenderest solicitude was on +board—for her, he saw no mode of escape—had +he been alone, he might have swam on shore.—However, +his trust in the protecting care of +Providence did not forsake him—they found +that no harm was done, and that by crossing +the rock they were on, they might reach the +other side of the river. They did so as quickly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">60</span>as possible, and landed, rejoicing in the thought +of the danger they had escaped. They were +obliged to pursue their route on foot; carrying +with them provisions and water, they proceeded +on the rocks, over a plain of sand and stones, +until they arrived at one called Aspir, which is +the highest in the neighbourhood of the Cataract, +and commands a complete view of the falls.</p> + +<p>And now our lovers of nature were well repaid +by the prospect which was before them. +Belzoni says that it was a truly magnificent +scene. The several thousand islands, of various +forms and sizes, with as many different falls of +water, running rapidly onward, whilst counter-currents +returned with equal velocity; the blackness +of the stones; the verdant foliage of the +trees, scattered on the islets, intermixed with +the white bubbling froth of the numerous cascades, +formed a picture neither to be described +nor delineated.</p> + +<p>Having been thus compensated for their venturous +excursion, our travellers returned by a +little rout to Ybsambul, where are the temples.</p> + +<p>Belzoni went immediately to Osseyn Cacheff’s +son Daoud, who presented to him a letter from +his father, and sent for the men who were selected +for the work. These people were complete +savages, and wholly unacquainted with +any kind of labour. However, according to +direction, they began their undertaking in such +a manner, that the sand would fall off from the +centre of the front of the temple, where the +door was supposed to be.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">61</span></p> +<p>They had no spades to dig away the sand; +but used a long stick with a cross piece of wood +at the end, at each extremity of which was a +rope. One man would draw the cross stick +back, and another would pull it forwards. They +found it very useful in clearing away the +sand, and as it was the first day of their enterprise, +they proceeded better than Belzoni had +expected; all their thoughts and talk were on +the quantity of gold, pearls and jewels they +should find in the place: the hope of which +acted as a stimulus for them to proceed.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="060over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/060over.jpg" alt="Belzoni directing the clearnce of sand"> +</figure> + +<p>Thus they went on for some days, but as they +had not before known the value of money, so +now their wish to obtain it knew no bounds: +they continually wished to procure more than +their employer allowed them; the other people +also began to desire it, and came in such numbers, +that had he wished it he would have found +it difficult to supply them all. Their desire to +see the inside of the temple, and to plunder +what it might contain, increased, and they gave +Belzoni to understand, that all that was there +was their own property, and that the treasure +should be for themselves. He in vain endeavoured +to assure them, that he expected to find +nothing but stones, and wanted no treasure; +they still persisted, that if he took away the +stones, the treasure was in them, and that if he +could make a drawing or likeness of them, he +could extract the treasure from <i>it</i> also, without +their perceiving it. They certainly had great +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">62</span>confidence in Belzoni’s ability, as well as an uncommon +degree of superstition.</p> + +<p>Some proposed, that if any figure was discovered, +it should be broken before he carried it +away, to examine the inside. Thus Belzoni had +no encouragement to proceed;—it was not of +much use to take so much pains, only in the +end to gratify the selfish curiosity of those savages,—and +according to this he might not +make drawings, much less take away any statue +or any thing else that might be found. I think, +under such circumstances, it will hardly lessen +our ideas of his perseverance and patience if he +should give up opening this temple. It would +be spending so many days to no purpose.</p> + +<p>From the slow progress, or rather from the +immense quantity of sand accumulated together, +Belzoni perceived that his work would require +more time than he could spare at that period +before its completion; still he would have persevered +had not another and a stronger motive +presented itself, which was the want of that +very article which a few days before was despised +and unknown, and now he found that he +absolutely could not proceed without it.—It was +money which, even here, had shown its usual +power among mankind of exciting avarice and +a selfish disposition.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—And here the sentence I repeated +in my Latin lesson this morning is just <i>a propos</i>, +mamma, “the love of money increases as the +money itself increases.”</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Before leaving it however, Belzoni +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">63</span>wished to ascertain how near they were to the +door, and for the purpose he had some water +brought up from the Nile, and poured down +close to where the door should be. This would +stop the sand from running until he had made a +hole deep enough to perceive whether they +were near the door. He supposed, in the first +place, that the sand was about thirty-five feet +in thickness, and they had removed so much +sand as to uncover twenty feet of the temple, +but from the hole that was made, Belzoni perceived +that it would require a longer time to +reach the door than he could stay, and more +money than he could afford, although the colossal +statues above the door were by this time +completely exposed. He therefore obtained a +promise from the Cacheff that no one should +touch the place till his return (which would be +in a few months,) and contenting himself with +putting a mark where the sand was before his +operation had commenced, and taking a sketch +of the exterior of the temple, he quitted it, with +a firm resolution of returning some time to accomplish +its opening.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Well, mother, he acted both prudently +and judiciously; but I should have been +afraid lest the selfish people who had worked +for him should have opened it in the mean time. +However, where did he go next, and when did +he return to Young Memnon, who had been +staying this long period at Thebes, banked up +with earth and palm-leaf ropes?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—They set off in the boat, and descending +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">64</span>the Nile rapidly, arrived in a few days +at Shellal, or the first Cataract. When they +reached the Isle of Philoe, Belzoni took particular +notice of the small obelisk which he hoped +at some future time to bring to England, and he +sent for the Aga of Assouan.</p> + +<p>Assouan is just on the opposite side of the +Nile to that of the Cataract—and you remember +the selfish Aga, who asked such a sum for +the use of his boat: Belzoni sent for him to +persuade him to use his interest in having the +obelisk taken down the Cataract: but this, for +want of a boat, could not be effected that season. +I mentioned the obelisk to you before: it +was formed of a granite, twenty-two feet in +length and two in breadth, so that it would +want a pretty large boat to convey it.</p> + +<p>Belzoni took possession of it, giving the Aga +four dollars to pay a guard for it till his return. +The next day they proceeded to Assouan by +land. On their arrival they were informed there +were no boats to take them to Esne, so there +they were obliged to wait.</p> + +<p>What we cannot help, we must of course endure. +Our enterprising friend often found it +so, and, though he no doubt was anxious to return +to Thebes, and to see his young Memnon +once more, yet that the time might not be lost, +he amused himself during this period by taking +another tour in Elephantine.</p> + +<p>When he returned to Assouan, no boat had yet +made its appearance. The delay was tedious; +however, nothing could be done but to submit to it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">65</span></p> + +<p>Belzoni was seated one evening under a grove +of palm-trees, eating some rice soup with the +Aga, when an Arab came and whispered in the +ear of the latter, as if he had something of great +importance to communicate.</p> + +<p>The Aga rose, though his dinner was not +finished, and went away with the air of a man +of great business. Half an hour after he returned, +accompanied by two other persons of distinction +and an old man. They all seated themselves +around him, and after introducing the +affair with some caution, asked Belzoni whether +he should like to purchase a large piece of diamond. +It is true he was no diamond merchant: +however, he told the Aga, that if the article +were good, and they could agree, he would buy +it, but that it was necessary for him to see it +first. The Aga said that the piece had been +found by one of the natives of that place, and, +as he was not in want of money, it had been +preserved in the family for many years. The +original proprietor being now dead, his successor +wished to dispose of it.</p> + +<p>Belzoni requested to see it, and therefore, retired +with them to some distance, out of the +way of the people; when the old man, with +great solemnity took a small wooden box from +a pocket in his leather belt. In this was a paper +which he unfolded: after that, two or three +others, till at last he opened his <i>sanctum sanctorum</i>. +Belzoni took its contents in his hands +with no small degree of expectation, but alas! +how did he look, when he perceived that this +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">66</span>great treasure, which had been so long carefully +stored, was only part of the stopple of a common +glass cruet, of the size of a hazel-nut, with +two or three little gilt flowers upon it! All his +hopes vanished: and as the others were attentively +regarding his motions, they could not fail +to observe the disappointment marked in his +countenance, and their hopes vanished too. +When they were told it was only a piece of +glass, the words affected their minds like the +unhappy tidings of some great misfortune; they +walked off in solemn silence, not without giving +him an inquiring look to learn whether he was +really in earnest. But he also shared their disappointment, +and the smile on his face could +give them no hopes.</p> + +<p>No boat was yet to be seen. Belzoni therefore +proposed bespeaking two camels, and travelling +to Esne by land; when this resolution +was known, a boat was soon in readiness, and +he discovered that the whole delay was a fraud +to detain him at Assouan, several little barks +having been concealed in different places. Our +travellers had a rapid and agreeable voyage +down the Nile, and reached Luxor, just by +Thebes, in safety.</p> + +<p>The Cacheff had procured a boat to take Caphany +to Cairo, and when they arrived at +Thebes, they found it fastened to the bank where +the colossal head was. Belzoni met with much +opposition when he wished to remove this great +bust; some thought that it would overbalance +the boat, and consequently be lost in the Nile; +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">67</span>others wished to retain it, supposing it contained +gold; and others alledged that it was impossible +to put it into the boat, as the bank was +more than fifteen feet above the level of the water, +which had retired at least a hundred feet +from it. His vexation was great, in thinking +that all his efforts and exertion in bringing the +head to the Nile were to no purpose, and that it +would never reach England, as the opposition +was so powerful. However, perseverance in +laudable pursuits, as I have often told you, will +reward all your labour, and produce effects +even beyond your calculation.</p> + +<p>With some trouble, Belzoni collected a hundred +and thirty men, and, under his superintendance, +they began to make a causeway, by which +to convey the head down to the river-side. +This was finished the next day, and the bust +brought to the edge of the slope ready to be +embarked.</p> + +<p>It required some thought to manage this, for +it was no easy undertaking to put a piece of +granite, of such bulk and weight, on board a +boat, that if it received the weight on one side, +would immediately upset.</p> + +<p>The Egyptians could furnish no mechanical +powers to render the operation more practicable. +It was to be done without the smallest +help of that kind, or even a single tackle, and +with poles and ropes only.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Laura.</span>—The people there know scarcely any +thing of mechanics; their utmost sagacity reaches +only to pulling a rope, or sitting on the extremity +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">68</span>of a lever, as a counterpoise or balance.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Will you tell me, dear Laura, +what you mean by a lever?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Laura.</span>—A lever, my love, is the foundation +of all the mechanical powers. It is nothing +more than a strait stick, or bar of wood or +iron. Did you never read, in “Sandford and +Merton,” about the snowball which rolled along +with so much ease, by using two long sticks, +which were called levers? I will read it to +you and explain all that you want to know at +some other time, but we will now hear how Belzoni +contrived to get the head down that steep +bank.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The causeway was made gradually +sloping to the edge of the water, close to the +boat, and with the four poles a bridge was +formed from the bank into the centre of the +boat, so that when the weight bore on the bridge, +it pressed only on the middle of the boat; and +this slender bridge rested partly on the causeway, +partly on the side of the boat, and partly on the +centre of it.</p> + +<p>On the opposite side of the boat, Belzoni put +some mats well filled with straw. A few Arabs +were stationed in it, and some at each side, with +a lever of palm-wood, as there was nothing else. +At the middle of the bridge he placed a sack +filled with sand, that in case the colossus should +run too fast into the boat, it might be stopped. +He also took a precaution to make it descend +gradually.—You know if they had given it a +push, and it had gone <i>at once</i>, it would have +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">69</span>overbalanced the boat, and perhaps drowned +the Arabs: so behind the colossus, Belzoni had +the trunk of a palm-tree firmly planted, round +which a rope was twisted, and then fastened to +the car, so that it might descend gently. He +set a lever at work on each side, and at the +same time that the men in the boat were pulling, +others were slackening the ropes, and others +moving the rollers as the colossus advanced.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="060under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/060under.jpg" alt="The bust descending the causeway"> +</figure> + +<p>Thus it descended very, very slowly, from the +mainland to the causeway, when it sunk a good +deal, as the causeway was made of fresh earth. +However, this was better than if it had run too +fast towards the water. Belzoni thought so +too, for if it had fallen into the Nile, it would +have been not only a mortification to himself +but a disappointment to many antiquaries in +England, who were longing for its arrival. +However it went safely on board.</p> + +<p>The Arabs who were of opinion that it would +go to the bottom of the river, or crush the boat, +were all attention, as if anxious to know the +result, as well as to learn how the operation was +to be performed. When the owner of the boat, +who considered it as lost, witnessed Belzoni’s +success, and saw the huge piece of stone, as he +called it, safely on board, he came forward and +heartily congratulated him. Belzoni was rejoiced +to see his long anticipated project thus +crowned with success.</p> + +<p>The party arrived at Cairo the following +month. Thence they proceeded to Rosetta, +which is on the western branch of the Nile, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">70</span>near its mouth. The colossus was landed there, +and as tackle was to be had, of which Belzoni +was destitute before, as well as proper workmen, +it was rendered quite an easy operation, +and conveyed in safety to the Bashaw’s magazine, +there to await its embarkation for England.</p> + +<p>Mr. Belzoni became acquainted with a gentleman +at Rosetta, who received him into his +house in a most hospitable manner, and was +much interested in his affairs, feeling the pleasure +of a true Englishman in seeing one of the +most finished articles of Egyptian art ready to +be embarked for his native country. And here +we will for the present take leave of our friend, +wishing that the indefatigable zeal displayed in +all he undertakes may be rewarded with equal +success: and you, my dear children, whenever +you want a stimulus to patient, persevering +industry, think of Belzoni!</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III"> + CHAPTER III. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Bernard’s perseverance.—Belzoni’s second Voyage.—Rapid +Journey from Minieh to Thebes.—Superb Temple at Carnac.—Works +carried on both at Gournou and Carnac.—Mummy +Caves.—Belzoni’s object in entering them.—Manufactures of +the ancient Egyptians.—Their Idols.—Curious Habitations +at Gournou.—He visits Ybsambul.—Opens the Temple.—Returns +highly gratified to Thebes.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p>Laura was a botanist. She loved to ramble +in search of wild flowers, and she frequently +did so before breakfast. A few mornings after +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">71</span>the preceding conversation, the sun arose with +uncommon splendour; but the glistening dewdrops +moistened every blade of grass, and bespangled +every leaf. Laura, instead of wandering +in her favourite fields, proceeded through +the little green gate of the shrubbery, and followed +a winding gravel path that brought her +to the stable-yard, in which were the children’s +gardens. Here she found Bernard, busily employed +with his spade: carefully replacing flowers +that were trampled down, trimming them +and cleaning them, and planting them anew; +the border which he had cultivated with so +much delight, was all in confusion and disorder; +the cherry-tree, from which he had promised +himself so much pleasure, in presenting its first fruits +to his mother, was pulled down from the +palisades against which it had been trained; his +little crop of wheat was levelled to the ground;—the +young liburnums were eaten; the rose-tree +was broken; all was a scene of desolation +and confusion! Yet the persevering little Bernard +did not complain; he smiled and looked at +Laura; Laura smiled also, for she guessed what +thoughts were passing in his mind.</p> + +<p>Our young readers may wish to know what +can have been the cause of all this disturbance. +The little gardens, as we have said, were in the +stable-yard. A door that led into the stable, +had, unintentionally, been left open; Smiler had +taken the liberty of walking out, and had been +tempted by a pendant branch of Bernard’s cherry-tree +to trample upon that very spot where +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">72</span>his little master had bestowed so much pains, +and in which he had passed many a happy hour, +toiling in the heat of his brow. Laura watched +her brother. He smoothed the ground with the +little rake his papa had given him; he dug a +hole, and placed his rosebush afresh, only first +cutting off the broken stalks; he then, with the utmost +patience, and without uttering one complaint, +assisted the gardener to train the poor +cherry-tree in its former station, holding the little +tin tacks, and the shreds of list, as James held +his hand to receive them; and James, the gardener, +and Bernard together, after working for +two hours, had the satisfaction of beholding the +garden restored to neatness and order.</p> + +<p>Bernard came in to breakfast. His cheeks +glowed with a brighter red than usual; his +countenance beamed cheerfulness and joy; he +seemed in perfect good humour with himself, +and with every one around him, and every one +appeared in good humour with him; this was +the effect of his industry.</p> + +<p>His mother, who had heard from Laura how +the morning had been passed, said,</p> + +<p>“Well my love, you have proved the truth of +my assertion, that perseverance, exerted in +laudable undertakings, will reward all our labour, +and produce effects beyond our fondest hopes!”</p> + +<p>“Ah, mamma!” said Bernard, “it was Belzoni +who first taught me to exert it! You know +I saw what <i>he</i> gained by perseverance, so I +thought I would follow his example, and not +give way to despair. You do not regret having +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">73</span>given me that account of Belzoni, do you +mamma?”</p> + +<p>“No, indeed, my dear boy!” replied the fond +and affectionate mother; “I am delighted in +witnessing the first fruits of my story; and +having thus profited by the first account of our +enterprising traveller, you are well entitled to +another.” A tear glistened in Bernard’s eyes +as his mother bestowed this well-merited praise.</p> + +<p>He despatched his basin of milk: the breakfast +things were soon removed; the maps were +once more laid on the table, and Mrs. A. commenced +her narrative of Belzoni’s second excursion +up the Nile.</p> + +<p>In 1817 a boat was prepared, well covered +with mats, and closely lined all round, with a +curtain to the door, to prevent the dust or wind +from penetrating the cabin.</p> + +<p>Belzoni and his little party embarked from +Boolac.</p> + +<p>Antiquities had touched a chord in Belzoni’s +heart: they were the chief objects of his researches. +He now more particularly wished to +visit the temple of Ybsambul, and to make preparations +for opening it; when that was accomplished, +he intended to return to the Valley of +Beban el Malook, and to endeavour to enter +the tombs of the kings, and afterwards to visit +the Pyramids.</p> + +<p>You recollect the temple I mention. Belzoni +had just made a hole in the sand, when he left +it before, and had discovered that he had then +neither time nor money for exploring it. We +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">74</span>may hope he will succeed now, and that the +men will behave better next time.</p> + +<p>Their departure from Boolac was attended +with a contrary wind, which caused their progress +up the Nile to be so slow, that in four days +they only reached Tabeen; a little village on +the eastern bank opposite Dajior, in reaching +which they passed by Cairo, and by several +pyramids.</p> + +<p>It was at this village, Bernard, that Belzoni +drew a view of the distant Pyramids, from which +sketch Laura was taking hers the other evening, +at the time you thought them so uninteresting.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—My opinion is changed now, +mamma:—it is best not to form a judgment too +soon,—is it not? I quite love the name of that +little village: I do not call it insignificant, for +Laura’s drawing led to my knowledge of Belzoni. +How long did he stop there, mother?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—When the sketch was taken, they +proceeded to Meimond, where their attention +was attracted by the cheerful sound of a tambourine, +by which they concluded that there +was an Arabic feast in the village, and leaving +their comfortable bark, they went on shore.</p> + +<p>They were not much gratified by what they +found, and therefore, returning to their boat, +went on to Minieh, which is about half way +between Cairo and Thebes.</p> + +<p>It was necessary for them to land there, on +account of seeing Hamet Bey, who has command +over all the boats on the river, and I dare +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">75</span>say thinks himself as great as any admiral on +the sea!</p> + +<p>Belzoni found this mighty commander sitting +on a wooden bench, and attended by two or +three of his sailors; and here he also saw two +Copts, who had been sent by Mr. Drouetti up +the Nile, in search of antiquities.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—In search of antiquities, mamma, like +Belzoni! then I suppose there will be some emulation +between them, and I am glad of it; but +I should like to know who this Mr. Drouetti is; +the Copts, we already know, are descended from +the first Egyptians who became Christians.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I think, Emily, it was very unfortunate +for Belzoni that he did meet with these +men; how can you tell but they may go to +Ybsambul and finish removing the sand, and so +spoil all the nice plans that I have in my head.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Mr. Drouetti was the Ex-French +Consul in Alexandria, and Owen is right in supposing +Belzoni would rather have avoided these +men; especially as he learned that they wished +to arrive at Thebes before him, and to purchase +all that the Arabs had found during the preceding +season. This they could do because their +mode of travelling on asses or horses was much +more speedy than the progress of the boat could +possibly be, and thus Belzoni would have no +chance of regaining the spot of ground where +you recollect he found the statues.</p> + +<p>Upon the plain at Thebes, where, I told you, +“the traveller finds himself on every side among +wonders.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">76</span></p> + +<p>He was not long considering how to act, and +resolved to set off immediately by land, and, by +travelling day and night, was in hopes of reaching +the place before them. Accordingly a horse +and an ass were got ready: and taking with him +his Greek servant, he left Mr. Beechey (the +young gentleman who accompanied him on this +journey) to come up the Nile at his leisure.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Belzoni was left at Cairo, with the British +Chancellor. Now I will tell you with what +expedition this rapid journey was completed.</p> + +<p>Our travellers set off at midnight, and forced +marches brought them the next morning to +Manfatout. From this place they hastened +without delay, and arrived at Siout before daylight. +At sunrise they mounted again, and arrived +before dark at Tahta. Here they rested +in a convent for four hours, started afresh by +the light of the moon, and reached Girgeh in +the night.</p> + +<p>Perhaps you think it must have been pleasant +to ride upon a donkey by moonlight, when +the moon was just peeping from behind some +dark clouds, and all around was silent and still.</p> + +<p>They resumed their journey at one o’clock in +the morning, reached Farshiout at noon, and, +after a delay of four hours, in consequence of +not finding a fresh horse immediately, arrived at +night at a village near Badjoura. Here they +rested two hours, and arrived at Geneh at three. +Having dined, they proceeded onward, rested a +couple of hours at Benut at night, and reached +Luxor the following noon.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">77</span></p> + +<p>It is hardly possible to form an idea of the +difficulties a person must undergo, travelling +through a tract entirely destitute of the necessaries +of life, and sleeping only for eleven hours +during five days!</p> + +<p>The fathers of the convents at some of the +towns through which he passed afforded him +great accommodation. They provided him with +beasts and provisions for the road immediately +on his arrival; and, in places where there was +no convent, he went to the house of the Sheik +el Balet, where travellers of all sorts assemble at +night: they are somewhat like our inns, but +without our accommodations. Indeed, he was +so fatigued and stiff, that any place of rest was +acceptable to him. The bare earth generally +afforded him a bed, and when he could procure +a mat, it was a luxury. One night, he was refreshed +with a few pieces of sugar-cane, which, +after passing the torch where the juice had +been extracted, were become pretty soft, and +afforded a tolerable bed. Sugar-canes are common +there, and Belzoni was sometimes regaled +with them as a dessert, after a repast of bread +and onions.</p> + +<p>No time was to be lost: so he now began to +be very busy. He applied to the Cacheff, who +gave orders for him to be furnished with men, +who should do whatever he pleased. Whilst +the works at Carnac were going on, Belzoni visited +the superb ruins of the temple at that +place. In a distant view of them, nothing can +be seen but the towering propylæ, high portals +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">78</span>and obelisks, which, projecting above the various +groups of lofty palm-trees, present a magnificent +spectacle. But when he entered the avenue +of sphinxes, which leads to the great temple, +he was inspired with equal solemnity and awe.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—I do not like to interrupt you, dear +mother: but will you be so good as to tell me +what these sphinxes are, and why they filled +Belzoni’s mind with solemnity and awe? I +thought that a sphinx was only a sort of +moth; and I do not believe that a moth would +fill me with astonishment! What is meant by +an Avenue of sphinxes?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The worship of the ancient Egyptians, +my dear girl, was remarkable for superstition. +They worshipped idols of wood and +stone; and these sphinxes represent lions with +heads of rams, the symbols of strength and innocence, +the power and purity of their gods. +It was their enormous size, and the idea of +what they were intended to represent, that +struck Belzoni as he approached the avenue. +He had never before entered it alone, without +being interrupted by the noise of the Arabs, +who seldom leave the traveller an instant; and +the colossal and other gigantic statues, obelisks, +immense colonnades, the pillars of which are +some twenty and some thirty feet in circumference; +paintings, which still retain an incomparable +brilliancy; granite and marble lavished in +the structure; stones of astonishing dimensions +forming the magnificent roofs; and thousands +of prostrate columns which literally strew the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">79</span>ground, made him remain a long time motionless +with rapture; and he more than once felt +inclined to prostrate himself before monuments, +the erection of which seemed to surpass the genius +and the powers of man.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Laura.</span>—How much I should have enjoyed +wandering with Belzoni in that magnificent +place! I have often thought so when I have +been looking at the view of it. I think, mamma, +Rollin very justly observes, that “Egypt +seemed to place its chief glory in raising monuments +for posterity.”</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Will you show us the drawing, +dear Laura?</p> + +<p>The kind sister rose, and brought a large, very +large folio volume from the library table, and +turned to a plate representing the extensive +ruins of the temple at Carnac.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Belzoni was there early in the +morning, when the sun was rising, and the long +shades from the various groups of columns extended +over the ruins, intermixed with the rays +of light striking on the masses in various directions, +formed such delightful views as (he tells +us) baffle all description.</p> + +<p>You remember that when Belzoni first saw the +temple of Tentyra he seated himself upon the +ground lost in wonder and admiration. He +thought that edifice exceeded this in point of +preservation, and in the beauty of its workmanship +and sculpture; but here he was lost in a mass +of colossal objects, every one of which, to use his +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">80</span>own animated language, was sufficient of itself +alone to attract his whole attention.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—These majestic objects gave Belzoni +more delight than that which he received on escaping +from the mummy cave, or even than that +he experienced in seeing young Memnon safe in +the magazine at Cairo.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—It was a superior pleasure, my love, +and a pleasure which superior minds only can +enjoy. Association gave it one grand charm. +As Belzoni viewed the battles, processions, triumphs, +feasts, and offerings painted and sculptured +on the walls, he did not doubt but they related +to the ancient history of a country universally +admitted to be</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“The queen of nations, and the boast of times,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Mother of science and the house of gods.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>This idea would lead a contemplative mind to +look back on the days and deeds of other times—to +the consideration that all human greatness is +transitory and fleeting—and that the time would +come when even these memorials of former +magnificence should be levelled with the ground, +and known no longer. These reflections would +be very natural; and such feelings would be +both melancholy and pleasing.</p> + +<p>It was quite late when our friend left the +ruins and returned to Luxor, to the little hut of +an Arab, who ceded to him part of his chamber +and a mat, which he tells us formed an excellent +bed; much better than the one of sugar-cane. +But the change was great from those grand and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">81</span>delightful ruins to a little hut. He was told that +the two Copts had arrived, and had begun their +researches extensively.</p> + +<p>This was rather annoying intelligence; but +travellers must learn to endure disappointments, +and he was obliged to be contented.</p> + +<p>Being unable to procure many men on the +east side of the Nile, he determined to try what +could be done on the west, as he had the good will +of the Cacheffs there: but, unfortunately, +the boat with Mr. Beechey had not arrived, and +he could not proceed for want of money: having, +from prudence, as he came by land, brought +but little with him. Accordingly he left his interpreter, +and set off in a small boat to meet his +friend. He arrived at Ghenlh in a day or two, +where they were rejoiced to meet each other. +It took them three days to reach Thebes, when +they moored their bark, and recommenced their +operations with what people they could obtain. +The work at Gournou was continued, and occupied +as much of Belzoni’s attention as that at +Carnac.</p> + +<p>You recollect that Gournou is just on the +other side of the Nile, nearly opposite Carnac. +The mummy cave is there, you know: the cave +into which Belzoni went with the Arabs. It is a +tract of rocks, about two miles in length, at the +foot of the Libyan mountains, on the west of +Thebes: every part of these rocks is cut out by +art, in the form of large and small chambers, +each of which has its separate entrance; and +though they are very close to each other, it is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">82</span>seldom that there is any interior communication +from one to another. They are celebrated, as I +mentioned before, for the quantity of mummies +they contain.</p> + +<p>It is impossible to give you any idea of those +subterraneous abodes and their inhabitants.</p> + +<p>There are no sepulchres in any part of the +world like those of Gournou, nor any excavations +or mines that can be compared to those +astonishing places. No exact description of their +interior can be given, owing to the difficulty of +visiting them.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Surely Belzoni will not venture into +one again, mamma! I shall tremble for him, especially +if he trust himself under the care of a +treacherous Arab.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—It is true that the people of Gournou +are superior to any other Arabs in cunning +and deceit; but when Belzoni had resided some +little time at Thebes, and was known to them, +they found it in vain to attempt to delude him +any more.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I do not wonder at that, mother: for +I do not believe that a very clever person could +be easily deceived. Because I think we more +frequently see superstitious or cowardly persons +imposed on, than those who are not so: and +thus one end of acquiring knowledge is, that it +prevents our being deceived by others, and enables +us to avoid their cunning.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Knowledge is intrinsically valuable, +my dear boy, as it elevates the mind, and qualifies +us for higher degrees of felicity, both in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">83</span>present and in a future life; and the acquisition +of useful knowledge exercises and invigorates +the powers of the understanding; its cultivation +in youth promotes virtue: it is, therefore, +the true foundation of all our happiness.</p> + +<p>In visiting these mummy caves a traveller is +generally satisfied when he has seen the large +hall, the gallery, the staircase, and as far as he +can conveniently go. Besides, his attention is +taken up by the paintings he observes on the +walls; so that, when he comes to a narrow or +difficult passage, or to have to descend to the +bottom of a well or cavity, he declines taking +such trouble, naturally supposing that he cannot +see in these abysses any thing so magnificent as +what he sees above, and on that account deeming +it useless to proceed any farther.</p> + +<p>The air is very close and disagreeable. Many +persons could not withstand the suffocating effect +it produces; and the enterprising traveller +is also annoyed with the immense quantity of +fine dust, and the effluvia arising from the mummies: +the entry or passage where the bodies +are is roughly cut in the rocks, which are of +granite; the falling of the sand from the upper +part causes the passage to be nearly filled up, so +that in some parts there is not more than the vacancy +of a foot or two left, which you must contrive +to pass through in a creeping posture, regardless +of the keen and pointed stones with +which the path is strewed. After getting through +these passages, some of them two or three hundred +yards long, a more commodious place is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">84</span>generally found, perhaps high enough to seat +yourselves. But what a place of rest! surrounded +by bodies, by heaps of mummies in all directions, +which, previous to being accustomed to +the sight, would impress upon the mind disgust +and horror. The blackness of the wall, the faint +light given by the candles or torches for want +of air, the different objects that surround the +venturous traveller, seeming to converse with +each other, and the Arabs, with torches in their +hands, naked and covered with dust, themselves +resembling living mummies, form a scene that +cannot be described.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="084over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/084over.jpg" alt="Belzoni resting in the cave, attended by some of his arab workers"> +</figure> + +<p>In such a situation our enterprising Belzoni, +whom no difficulties could deter, frequently +found himself. At first he generally returned +exhausted and fainting, but at length became so +inured to the exertion, that he could freely venture +into these caves, indifferent to what he suffered. +Sometimes, he tells us, after the trouble +of entering into such a place, through a passage +of fifty, a hundred, three hundred, or six hundred +yards, he would seek a resting-place and +contrive to sit; but when his weight bore on the +body of some decayed Egyptian, it crushed it +immediately. He would then naturally have recourse +to his hands to sustain his weight, but +they could find no better support, so that he +would sink altogether among the broken mummies, +with a crash of bones, rags, and wooden +cases, which raised such a dust as sometimes +left him motionless a quarter of an hour, waiting +till it subsided again.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">85</span></p> +<p>The air in the caves is almost unfit to sustain +animal life. Belzoni could not have borne it +long at a time; and this same kind of air which +often proves fatal to the life of animals, will +also extinguish the flame of a torch or candle. +When you are acquainted with the principles +of chemistry, I shall be better able to explain +the cause of this singular effect.</p> + +<p>The people of Gournou live in the entrance +of such caves as have already been opened; +and by making partitions with earthen walls, +they form habitations for themselves, as well as +for their cows, camels, buffaloes, sheep, goats, +and dogs.</p> + +<p>It is difficult to account for this choice, as +they have plenty of stone from the surrounding +tombs, unless it be from their indolence, to save +the trouble of building houses, and in hopes of +receiving money from travellers.</p> + +<p>Belzoni’s principal object in entering those +caves was to rob the Egyptians of their papyri, +of which he found a few hidden in the numerous +folds of cloth that enveloped them. You +have heard of the papyries or paper rush, my +love, which grew on the banks of the Nile, and +of which the ancients made clothes, sails, domestic +utensils, and writing paper.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—<i>I</i> have heard of it, mamma; and +I understand the process by which they made +their paper, perfectly well. They pressed the +leaves that surrounded the stem, flattening and +smoothing them; I suppose the leaves of the +paper rush clung round each other, as those of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">86</span>the great American aloe do in the conservatory. +But what has all this to do with Belzoni’s papyri?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—A great deal, my little friend: because +by those papyri are meant the scrolls or +records that were usually placed with the mummies, +containing historical facts, which would +prove very useful to the antiquary were he able +to decipher them. Such people as could afford +it would have a sycamore case to be buried in, +on which the history of their lives was painted: +and those who could not afford a case, were +contented to have their lives written on papyri, +rolled up and placed above their knees. So you +are now acquainted with the motive which induced +Belzoni to enter the dismal caves at Gournou.</p> + +<p>The ancient Egyptians were evidently acquainted +with linen manufactures, and in perfection +nearly equal to our own. Belzoni observed +some of the cloth of which their garments +were made, quite as fine as our muslin, of an +even texture, and spun so curiously that the +threads were scarcely visible.</p> + +<p>Their knowledge was not by any means confined +to architecture and sculpture. Belzoni +was fortunate enough to find many specimens +of their manufactures, among which was gold +leaf beaten nearly as thin as ours. They had +also the art of tanning leather, and of staining +it of different colours; and thus they were able +to make shoes of various shapes, and as good as +those we wear. They fabricated a sort of glass, +of which they made beads and other ornaments; +and they had also manufactories of pottery ware. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">87</span>Thus you see the Egyptians possessed diversity +of talents; things of minor importance were not +forgotten, amidst objects both grand and sublime.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Laura.</span>—I like them the better for that, +mother. What you have said about combining +great things with matters of comparatively +small consequence, reminds me of my favourite, +Elizabeth Smith; who, although possessing talents +which would have been distinguished in an +University, thought it no degradation to make a +currant tart!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Those are in reality the greatest +minds, which, possessing profound and various +learning, do not object to its being shaded by +the exertion of every domestic virtue.</p> + +<p>Besides enamelling, the art of gilding was in +high perfection among the Egyptians, as Belzoni +found several ornaments of that kind. They +knew how to cast copper, as well as how to +form it into sheets; and had a metallic composition +not unlike our lead, but rather softer, resembling +the lead we see on paper, in the tea-chests +from China, only it was thicker. Carved +works were very common and in great perfection, +particularly in the proportion of the figures, +which were made to preserve that sweet simplicity +peculiar to themselves, and which is always +pleasing to the beholder. The art of varnishing, +and baking the varnish on clay, was carried on +in so superior a style, that it would be difficult +to surpass it in the present day.</p> + +<p>Painting however, was not in so much perfection +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">88</span>among the Egyptians as the other arts. +They knew not how to soften from shade to +shade, until the last in “purest light was lost.” +Neither could they spread the glowing tinge +across a sable landscape; nor yet pencil a delicate +flower unfolding its numerous petals. Their +painting was extremely simple, as they possessed +no knowledge of shadowing to elevate their +figures. Great credit, however, is due to them +for their taste in disposing the colours, such as +they had, which were only two sorts of blue, +red, green, yellow, and black. With these they +adorned their temples, tombs, or whatever they +wished to have painted.</p> + +<p>The Egyptians were a primitive nation: they +had to form every thing without a model before +them to imitate: yet so fertile was their inventive +faculty, that, instead of confining themselves +to five orders of architecture, they had so many +that new ones might be continually extracted +from their ruins. We have reason to believe +that our Ionic order originated in Egypt.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Oh, yes: and papa told me he had +heard that the invention of the ornament called +the volute was derived from the circumstance +of a girl leaving a basket, covered with a tile, +on a bed of celery; the plant growing up, and +being interrupted by the tile, having bent backwards, +and assumed the spiral form. I should +like to know if this anecdote be true. Any thing +is more interesting when we can depend upon +its correctness.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">89</span></p> + +<p>Well, mamma, will you tell us in what other +arts the Egyptians excelled?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Their wonderful sculptures are admired +for the boldness of their execution. Geometry +is universally believed to have been first +found out by them; and astronomy is also regarded +as their invention.</p> + +<p>Indeed, that they were early celebrated for +their wisdom and literature is sufficiently obvious, +both from sacred and profane history; +the former assuring us that Moses was learned +in all the wisdom of the Egyptians, and that the +wisdom of Solomon excelled all the wisdom of +Egypt; and the latter allowing this nation to +have been the parent of all philosophical knowledge.</p> + +<p>During the time that the works at Gournou +and Carnac were carried on, Belzoni generally +resided at Luxor; but when he had been busier +than usual, he took up his lodging at the entrance +of some of the tombs; and, far from being miserable, +he was amused with the novelty of his +habitation. The dwellings are usually in the +passages, between the first and second entrance +to a tomb; the walls and the roof are as black +as any chimney; the inner door is closed up +with mud, except a small aperture sufficient for +a man to creep through. Within this place +sheep are kept at night. Over the door-way +there are always some half broken Egyptian +figures, and the two foxes—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Stop, mamma, if you please:—two +foxes! What had foxes to do there?</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">90</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The Egyptians attached great importance +to animals, and foxes were considered +as guardians to their burial places. You know +I have frequently told you, that these people +worshipped animals of different kinds; and in +their tombs Belzoni frequently found the mummies +of bulls, cows, monkeys, cats, fishes, birds, +and crocodiles. To the latter they attached +great importance, regarding them with high veneration. +I think we ought to be very thankful +that we live in better times, and in a Christian +land, for I dare say, if we had lived at that time +we should have been no wiser than our neighbours; +but have worshipped cats, and dogs, and +crocodiles too.</p> + +<p>A small lamp is placed in a niche in the wall, +and a mat is spread on the ground; and this +formed the grand divan wherever Belzoni was. +The people used to assemble around him, and +the conversation turned wholly on antiquities. +Such a one had found such a thing, and another +had discovered a tomb. Various articles were +brought for him to purchase, and he had sometimes +reason to rejoice at having stayed there.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Then they had discovered that he +was an antiquarian. For my part, sooner than +trust myself with the people of Gournou, in one +of their black dismal caves, I would live in one +of the bamboo huts of Peru, or in one of the +little Laplanders’ dwellings, made of briars, and +bark, and reindeer skins: either would be much +more agreeable, would it not, mamma?</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">91</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Possibly it might; but it would not +have answered Belzoni’s purpose to have been +transported across the Atlantic to the flowery +fields of Peru, nor yet to Lapland’s land of snow, +for in both places antiquities are unknown.</p> + +<p>Every human being can be happy if he like, +for happiness certainly depends on ourselves.</p> + +<p>It may not suit your views of happiness, to +talk of it among people who live in caves like +wild beasts, or rather who live in tombs, among +the mummies and rags of an ancient nation, of +which they know nothing. But this is trifling, +compared with their slave-like state; subject to +the caprice of a tyrannical power, who leaves +them no chance of receiving any remuneration +for their labours, and no prospect of any change +except for the worse. Nevertheless they are +happy, my love, for custom reconciles all this. +The labourer comes home in the evening, seats +himself near his cave, smokes his pipe with his +companions, talks of the last inundation of the +Nile, its products, and what the ensuing season +is likely to be; his wife brings him the usual +bowl of lentils and bread, moistened with water +and salt, and when she can add a little butter, it +is considered a feast. Knowing nothing beyond +this, he is happy.</p> + +<p>The young man’s business is to accumulate the +amazing sum of a hundred piastres (two pounds +and ten shillings) to buy himself a wife, and to +make a feast on the wedding-day.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—To buy a wife! That is the drollest +thing I ever heard of! Cheap articles too, mamma! +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">92</span>Two pound ten shillings!—I am sure I +would not be bought.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—You are not sure of any such thing, +my dear. Were you a young lady of Gournou, +you would most probably resemble the young +ladies there. When a man wants to marry, he +goes to the father of the intended bride, and +agrees with him what he is to pay for her. This +important affair being settled, so much money +is to be spent on the wedding feast. To set up +house-keeping, nothing is requisite but two or +three earthen pots, a stone to grind meal, and a +mat, which is the bed. The lady has a gown and +jewels of her own; and if the bridegroom presents +her with a pair of bracelets of silver, ivory, +or glass, she is fortunate and happy indeed. Thus +these poor people, having never known our +luxuries and indulgencies, sigh not for the want +of them.</p> + +<p>There is no difficulty in the matter of rent or +taxes at Gournou. If one house do not please +them, they walk out and enter another, as there +are several hundreds, or perhaps thousands at +their command. At length they fix upon one. +No rain can pass through the roof, and a door is +not wanted, as there is nothing to lose. They +make a kind of box, of clay and straw, which +after two or three days’ exposure to the sun becomes +quite hard. It is fixed on a stand; an +aperture is left to put all their precious things +into it, and a piece of a mummy-case forms +the door.</p> + +<p>Belzoni had by this time acquired antiquities +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">93</span>enough to fill another boat, and having secured +all the valuable collection in one spot, built a +mud wall round it, and covered it with earth; +they left an Arab Scheik to guard it, and set off +for Assouan, that old town where Belzoni found +the Aga, and all his retinue seated on a mat under +a cluster of palm-trees. As they were bound +to Ybsambul, they did not remain long at Assouan, +but proceeded to Philoe. You have not +forgotten this name.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Oh no, mamma.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—You remember in my account of +Belzoni’s last voyage, I told you that he stood +at the stern of the vessel, waiting for the first +beams of the sun to unveil that beautiful island; +and he found an obelisk there and gave +the Aga four dollars to pay a guard for it till +his return. He is not going to remove that obelisk +just at present, but at some future time; +his chief object now is to hasten to Ybsambul.</p> + +<p>During their stay at Philoe, two captains arrived, +who were going up the Nile as far as the +second Cataract; and as there was some difficulty +in obtaining two boats, it was agreed that +Belzoni should join them, and thus form one +party. Accordingly they embarked; the two +captains, Mr. Beechey, three servants, and Belzoni +himself. I have just been thinking how +much courage Mrs. Belzoni possessed, for she +was left in the island of Philoe till the return of +the party. She very much wished to accompany +them, but as there was only one boat she was +obliged to her own mortification, to remain behind, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">94</span>notwithstanding the great desire she had +to witness the opening of the interesting temple +at Ybsambul. However, it was in vain to give +way to useless regret. Mrs. Belzoni took up her +abode on the top of the temple of Osiris, in that +island, where, with the help of some mud walls, +she enclosed two comfortable rooms; and amused +herself in observing the customs and characters +of the inhabitants, and exchanging little +articles with the Nubian women during Mr. Belzoni’s +absence; and in this she certainly displayed +great courage, resolution, and patience.</p> + +<p>The party arrived at Ybsambul in the course +of a few days; they were disappointed in finding +that the Cacheffs were not there, but at Jomas, +opposite Deir. They sent an express, to inform +them that they were come with permission +to open the temple, and in the meantime proceeded +to the second Cataracts. Previous to their +arrival at Wady Halfa, they followed the side +of the Nile, as far as they could go with their +boat, and then landed and walked three or four +miles to the rock Aspir for the delightful views, +which you remember Belzoni saw on his first excursion, +tempted him to wish to behold them +once more, and to observe the pleasure with +which his companions would look upon them; +but the islands did not appear so numerous, nor +did the water form those foaming eddies, which +had before so finely interspersed the views with +white and green. Notwithstanding, the whole +was very grand, and Belzoni was much gratified +in seeing it again.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">95</span></p> + +<p>Having returned to the boat, they passed the +night on the same side of the river. The next +morning they crossed the water, and entered +into an inlet of the Nile, where they moored +their bark, near the village of Wady Halfa, and +returned in the evening to Ybsambul. However, +they did not find the Cacheffs there. But after +exercising the patience of our travellers by keeping +them waiting a whole week, they appeared, +and took up their abode in some small huts +made of rushes, on a sandy bank of the river. +Here Belzoni and his friends waited upon them, +and obtained permission to recommence the +operation of opening the temple the following +morning, with the assistance of thirty men.</p> + +<p>In the morning the men made their appearance, +and the work was recommenced with +much enthusiasm and many sanguine hopes. +You recollect the immense mass of sand that +obstructed the entrance. Belzoni judged by +calculations that it was not less than thirty-five +feet in thickness—thicker than our house is +high! This sand was a mass, accumulated by +the winds for many centuries; and perhaps the +phenomena so common in Egypt had added to it. +I mean the whirlwinds, which occur all the year +round, but especially at the time of the poisonous +wind. This wind generally blows from the +south-west, and lasts several days; so very +strong, that it raises the sands to a great height, +forming a thick cloud in the air. The caravans +cannot proceed in the Deserts; the boats cannot +continue their voyages: the whole is like a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">96</span>chaos. Frequently a quantity of sand and small +stones gradually ascend to a great height, and +form a column sixty or seventy feet in diameter, +and so thick, that, were it steady on one spot, it +would appear a solid mass. This not only revolves +within its own circumference, but runs +in a circular direction over a great space of +ground, sometimes maintaining itself in motion +for half an hour; and where it falls, it accumulates +a hill of sand. It is in this way only that I +can account for the prodigious quantity accumulated +before the door of the temple.</p> + +<p>It was Belzoni’s principal object to reach that +door, as the most speedy means of entering it. +He divided the men into two parties, and stationed +one on each side of the colossus that +stood over the entrance. They worked pretty +well, but were so few that the little sand they +removed could scarcely be perceived. Seeing +that it would be a very tedious business if carried +on in this way, Belzoni made a proposal to +the Cacheff to pay three hundred piastres for +opening the temple, which was agreed to by +both Cacheff and workmen.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Three hundred piastres, mother! is +it possible? As much money as would have +bought three wives at Gournou!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—They continued their labour for +three days with much ardour, supposing they +could finish it in that time; but on the evening +of the third day there was as little prospect of +seeing the door as on the first. They became +tired at last, and, under some pretence, left the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">97</span>temple, the sand, and the treasure, contenting +themselves with keeping the three hundred piastres, +which had unfortunately been paid to them +beforehand.</p> + +<p>Thus deserted, Belzoni and his friends took +the resolution to work at the sand themselves. +They were only seven: but the crew offered +their services, and thus they became fourteen +in all.</p> + +<p>Finding that one of them did as much work +as one to five of their selfish workmen, they +were well satisfied, and determined to continue. +They rose every morning at the dawn of day, +and left off two hours and a half after sun rise. +After continuing their operation regularly for +some days, they perceived a rough projection +from the wall, which apparently indicated that +the work was unfinished, and no door to be +found there.</p> + +<p>The hopes of some of the party began to fail. +Nevertheless, as you did this morning, Bernard, +they persevered in their exertions, and completed +their work: for, three days afterwards, +they discovered a broken cornice, the following +day the torus, and of course the frieze under, +which made them almost sure of finding the +door the next day. Accordingly Belzoni erected +a palisade to keep the sand up, and to his great +satisfaction, saw the upper part of the door as +the evening approached. They dug away enough +sand to be able to enter that night; but supposing +the air in the cavity might be unpleasant, +they deferred this till the following day.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">98</span></p> + +<p>Early in the morning of the first of August +they went to the temple, in high spirits at the +idea of entering a newly-discovered place. They +endeavoured to enlarge the entrance as much as +they could, and, soon making the passage wider, +they entered the finest and most extensive excavation +in Nubia: one that can stand a competition +with any in Egypt, except the tomb +more recently discovered in Beban el Malook.</p> + +<p>From what they could perceive at the first +view, it was evidently a very large place: but +their astonishment increased when they found it +to be one of the most magnificent of temples, +enriched with statues, paintings, and figures! +They entered at first into a very long portico, +supported by two rows of enormous square pillars. +Both these and the walls were covered +with beautiful hieroglyphics, which exhibited +battles, storming of castles, triumphs over Ethiopians, +and various sacrifices.</p> + +<p>I will explain to you the meaning of <i>hieroglyphics</i>.</p> + +<p>The Egyptians, before the invention of letters, +from their observations on the various properties +of animals and plants, and from their knowledge +of the uses of different instruments also, had, +with their accustomed ingenuity, derived a variety +of devices or emblems; and by these, +disposed in certain attitudes, they could make +historical records, which would be very intelligible +to those who were acquainted with their +system; and such devices or emblems are called +<i>hieroglyphics</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">99</span></p> + +<p>You may suppose if Belzoni had been able to +decipher the hieroglyphics which had been thus +discovered, that he would have become acquainted +with the whole history of the country; but +with all his knowledge he was almost as much +unacquainted as we are with the hieroglyphical +system. It is many hundred years since it was +in general use; for when those simple and easy +characters, the letters, were found out, emblematical +signs were laid aside.</p> + +<p>Letters are believed to be the invention of +some wise Egyptian in the reign of Cadmus, +King of Thebes.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Why do you say, <i>they are believed +to be</i>, mother? Cannot you be quite sure?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—I do not wish to be quite sure, my +love. As I was not living in the reign of Cadmus, +I cannot pretend to prove the truth of the +assertion, though I see little reason to doubt it. +Egypt is called the <i>mother of science</i>, you know. +It was an ingenious invention whoever the inventor +might be. For, by combining letters, +every sound can be represented: but when hieroglyphics +were in use, of course there were as +many characters as ideas.</p> + +<p>The characters now used for the signs of the +zodiac and the planets are specimens of hieroglyphics; +and so is a circle, or snake with its +tail in its mouth, when used to signify eternity. +Flames, which are ever moving, represent light +and life; the lion or bull, indicates strength; the +hawk, swiftness; and so on. I will tell you more +about them another time.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">100</span></p> + +<p>Let us now accompany Belzoni through his +newly-discovered temple.</p> + +<p>The second hall into which they entered was +very extensive, containing four large pillars. +Beyond this was a shorter chamber, in which +was the entrance into the sanctuary: the sanctuary +contained a pedestal in the centre, and at +the end were four colossal figures. On the right +side of the great hall, entering into the temple, +were two doors, at a short distance from each +other, which led into two long separate rooms, and +other rooms and galleries opened out of them: so +you may imagine what a fund of amusement and +astonishment Belzoni met with at last.</p> + +<p>The outside of the temple was as magnificent +as the interior. Only fancy it three times the +height of our house—the immense colossi—the +figure of Osiris twenty feet high, on the top of +the door—the cornice enriched with hieroglyphics, +and the frieze beneath; and then think, +that this stupendous place was nearly two-thirds +buried under the sand, and you cannot fail to admire +the labour and perseverance which must +have been exerted to obtain an entrance.</p> + +<p>Belzoni now experienced the truth of my +motto; “<span class="smcap">Labor omnia vincit.</span>” He was well +compensated for all his toil and anxiety; he no +longer regarded the selfishness of the workmen: +he no longer regretted the want of mechanical +powers; he had attained his wish; he had entered +the famous temple of Ybsambul excavated +in the solid rock; and in the course of a few +weeks he returned, completely satisfied, to the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">101</span>little island of Philoe, where Mrs. Belzoni joined +the party, and accompanied them to Thebes.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—And whilst there they intend to visit +the valley of Beban el Malook, and afterwards +to explore the pyramids near Cairo.</p> + +<p>Will you tell us something more, mother? I +believe that the celebrated tomb of which we +hear so much, at the Egyptian Hall, in London, +is the representation of one that Belzoni discovered +in the valley of Beban el Malook. Will +you tell us how he came to discover it?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Not at present, my dear Emily. I +must leave you now, but you may go and amuse +yourselves on the lawn, and tie up the little almond +tree, my love, that is almost blown down.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV"> + CHAPTER IV. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Emily amused with a description of Greenland.—Belzoni makes +the valley of Beban el Malook the scene of his researches.—He +enters and explores the tomb of Psammuthis.—Receives +a visit from Hamed Aga.—Returns to Cairo.—Visits the Pyramids.—Time +and purpose of their erection uncertain.—Enters +one which for more than one thousand years had appeared +a solid mass of stones.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Mother, I have been looking at a picture +in the study of some ice mountains in the +frigid zone, and father has been talking to me +about the little Greenlanders. He tells me, that +notwithstanding their country is so cold and so +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">102</span>desolate, they are extremely fond of it, and +would not upon any account exchange their barren +rocks and mountains of snow, for the spicy +groves and flowery fields of warmer climates; +and what amused me more than all, mother, +father says that two of its inhabitants were +brought to Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, +you know, a few years since, and they pined for +want until they met with some train oil, (what +could be more disagreeable!) which they drank +with the same relish as we drink chocolate or +wine; and they danced about for joy when they +found they were to be sent back to Greenland.</p> + +<p>Why do you think they like that cold country +so much, mother?—The very picture of it makes +me shiver.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Habit, my dear little girl, renders +every situation in life easy, and it is natural to +become attached to our native country. Custom +has taught the Greenlanders to struggle with the +severity of the most piercing winter, and suffer +the hardships of a poor and scanty subsistence. +They scarcely know, even in idea, what enjoyment +we derive from our woods, and groves, +and fields, whilst gentle zephyrs breathe around, +and the little birds seem to vie with each other +in their evening notes of gratitude and praise. +They are unacquainted with the delight we experience +in watching the earliest buds of spring, +and in admiring the rich hues of summer flowers, +or the ever-varying tints of autumn. They +cannot regret the loss of pleasures unknown to +them. Their year consists only of one night and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">103</span>one day: the sun never rising during winter, +nor setting while their short summer lasts.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“There on an icy mountain’s height,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Seen only by the moon’s pale light,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Stern Winter rears his giant form,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">His robe a mist, his voice a storm;</div> + <div class="verse indent0">His frown the shiv’ring nations fly,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And hid for half the year in smoky caverns lie.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>These caverns, their dwelling-places, are half +under ground, roofed over with beams and rafters; +the walls are composed of sods and turfs, +and the interstices between are filled up with +bushes, turf, and fine earth, and above all is a +covering of skins, which nicely defends the inhabitants +from the weather. The interior of the +temple is not much more respectable than the +outward parts of it. There is neither door nor +chimney. Instead of the spacious hall usual in +our houses, the entrance is through a long dark +passage, with so low a ceiling, that those who +go into it, are obliged to creep on their hands +and knees. In the place of paper hangings, and +elegant curtains, the walls are covered with the +dried skins of bears, foxes, and other wild animals, +to keep out the damp. For want of glass, +the openings to let in the light are defended from +cold by the membraneous substances of seals or +fish. A raised bench lined with skins, serves the +purpose either of a bed or a sofa, as they please, +extending the whole length of the house, and +divided into little apartments by large skins, +stretched from the wall to the posts that support +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">104</span>the roof, just like the stalls in a stable. And each +partition is inhabited by a different family, who +can carry on their own business without minding +their neighbours. What think you of the +dwellings of the little Greenlanders?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Indeed, mother, I own that I think +myself very well off not to be one of them; and +yet, do you know, I should prefer one of their +smoky caverns to the dismal mummy caves of +Gournou. Father says, that although the countenances +of the Greenlanders are unpleasing, and +their manners savage, they are not treacherous, +like the Arabs who attended Belzoni when he +entered that melancholy mummy cave. We +left our traveller at Thebes, mother, and he was +about to visit the tombs of the kings; cannot +you tell us something more about him? “Oh! +do, dearest mother, do!” cried Bernard, as the +sound of Belzoni’s name reached his ear; and +notwithstanding Bernard was busily employed +in putting together his dissected map, he was +eager to leave this favourite employment to hear +about the tombs of the kings; and he began to +arrange the pieces in order in his box.</p> + +<p>“There, there goes Russia; the large Russian +empire, mother; and there is Switzerland, with +its lofty mountains, upon which the chamois +goats bound from crag to crag; the Swiss are +as fond of their country as the Greenlanders are +of theirs, I know, by the song that Laura sings; +the <i>Ranz des Vaches</i>, mother; and there is Italy +with its orange groves; and there, Emily, goes +your dear Lapland.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">105</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Laura says, that</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“E’en in <i>Lapland’s</i> land of snow,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Lilies spring and roses blow.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Laura was lately reading Linnæus’s tour through +Sweden and Lapland, mother, and she says +that he mentions many flowers which we consider +delicate, as flourishing there, and that the +water crowfoot—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Stop, dear Emily, the pieces are +placed in the box in order due, so pray leave +your flowers and your <i>crowfoots</i>, and all the rest +of it, and come and sit by mother and hear her +talk to us about Belzoni. I guess we shall have +some wonderful accounts; you know he is going +to Beban el Malook, and I am sure that, for my +part, I would much rather hear about the tombs +of the kings in the valley of Beban el Malook, +than all that you can tell about Linnæus and +his flowers.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Ah, Bernard! you are no more of +a botanist than Mahomed Ali, who amused himself +with shooting across the Nile, at an earthen +pot, even when he was surrounded by Flora’s +beauties. But I am as fond of Belzoni as you +are, so please to go on, dear mother.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—When our travellers arrived at Luxor, +which town is not far from Thebes, you recollect +they took up their former abode in the +sekos of the temple, and found themselves at +home again, for both these places were now become +familiar to them. The two captains set off +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">106</span>for Cairo, and Mr. Beechey began to take drawings +of the different views, whilst Belzoni recommenced +his researches at Gournou. He there +found two more agents of Mr. Drouetti, busied +in digging the ground in all directions, and who +had been tolerable successful in their pursuit after +mummies.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—How unfortunate, mother! I wish +that troublesome Mr. Drouetti would keep his +agents in Alexandria, and not let them come to +disturb Belzoni’s plans. Were these two fresh +agents as disagreeable as the two Copts, who interrupted +him before, and caused him to travel +upon a donkey by day and night, from Minieh to +Thebes?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—These men were not Copts, but +Piedmontese, natives of Piedmont, one of the +most populous and delightful parts of Italy. Although +they did interfere with Belzoni’s plans at +Gournou, they did him no injury in the end: for +when he found that it was in vain to proceed +with his work there, he made the valley of Beban +el Malook the scene of his researches, being +confirmed in the opinion that there was a sufficient +prospect to encourage him to commence +his operation, in hopes of discovering the tombs +of the kings.</p> + +<p>The valley of Beban el Malook is the place +where the kings of Egypt were buried, and he +thought that he might possibly discover some of +their relics. It is completely separated from +Gournou by a chain of high mountains, that also +divides Thebes from the valley. The same rocks, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">107</span>indeed, surround the sacred ground, which can +be visited only by a single natural entrance, that +is formed like a gateway, or by the craggy path +across the mountains. The tombs are all cut out +of the solid rock, which is of hard calcareous +or lime-stone, as white as it is possible for stone +to be. They consist in general of a long passage, +which leads to a staircase, sometimes with a gallery +at each side of it, and other chambers. Advancing +farther, wider apartments present themselves, +and other passages and stairs, until at +length the traveller finds himself in a large hall, +where the great sarcophagus, containing the remains +of the kings is laid.</p> + +<p>Belzoni was furnished with twenty men, and +began in good spirits to search for the tombs of +the monarchs of Thebes.</p> + +<p>His only guide was the knowledge he had acquired +in his many researches among the tombs +of Gournou. He is a gentleman of great observation, +you know, and he found that the Egyptians +had a particular manner of forming the +entrances into their tombs, which gave him +many leading ideas to the discovery of them. +Three days after the excavations had commenced, +the first tomb was discovered; the entrance +indicated it to be a very large one, but it proved +to be only the passage of one that was never +finished. However, this partial success gave him +encouragement, as it assured him that his idea +respecting their situation was correct. In the +evening of the same day another tomb was discovered, +but nothing particularly remarkable +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">108</span>was observed in it. The next morning an entrance +was made into another, containing many +chambers and passages. But it was not till some +days after this that Belzoni pointed out the fortunate +spot which repaid him for all his trouble, +and compensated him for all the mortification he +had received from the operations of the Piedmontese. +He says that this day gave him more +pleasure and more gratification than wealth +could purchase, arising from the discovery of +what had long been sought in vain, and of presenting +the world with a new and perfect monument +of Egyptian antiquity; which can be recorded +as superior to any other in point of +grandeur, style, and preservation, appearing as +if just finished on the day they entered it; indeed, +what was found in it will show its superiority +to the others.</p> + +<p>Not fifteen yards from the last tomb, Belzoni +caused the earth to be opened, at the foot of a +steep hill, and under a torrent, which, when it +rains in the desert, pours a great quantity of water +over the very spot he had caused to be dug.</p> + +<p>One could hardly imagine that the ancient +Egyptians would make the entrance into such +an immense and superb excavation just under a +torrent of water, but Belzoni had strong reasons +for supposing it from indications he had observed. +The Fellahs, who were accustomed to dig, +were all of opinion that there was nothing in +that spot, as the situation of this tomb differed +from that of any other. He continued the work, +however, and the next day he perceived the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">109</span>part of the rock that was cut and formed the +entrance. Early on the following morning the +task was resumed, and about noon the workmen +reached the entrance, which was eighteen +feet below the surface of the ground. The appearance +indicated that the tomb was of the +first rate, but Belzoni did not expect to find so +magnificent a one as it really proved to be.</p> + +<p>The workmen possessed but a small portion +of their employer’s resolution and perseverance; +and they advanced till they saw it was +probably a large tomb, when they protested they +could go no farther, because it was so much +choked up with large stones, which they could +not get out of the passage. Belzoni descended +and examined the place, pointing out to them +where they might dig, and in the course of an +hour there was room enough for him to enter, +through a passage that the earth had left under +the ceiling of the first corridor; at the end of +this corridor he came to a long staircase, at the +foot of which a door opened into a still longer +passage, each side of which was sculptured +with hieroglyphics in basso relievo.</p> + +<p>The more Belzoni saw, the more he wished +to see, which was very natural; when our curiosity +is excited, it is quite right to gratify it, +especially if the object be laudable.</p> + +<p>His anxiety was, however, checked for a time, +for at the end of this long corridor he reached +a large pit, which intercepted his progress. +This pit was as deep as our house is high.</p> + +<p>On the opposite side of the pit, facing the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">110</span>entrance, Belzoni perceived a small aperture, +only two feet wide and two feet high, and at +the bottom of the wall a quantity of rubbish. +A rope fastened to a piece of wood that was +laid across the passage against the projections +which formed a kind of door, appeared to have +been used by the ancients for descending into +the pit; and from the small aperture on the +opposite side hung another, which reached the +bottom, no doubt for the purpose of ascending. +They could clearly perceive that the water that +entered these passages from the torrents of rain, +ran into this pit, and the wood and rope fastened +to it crumbled to dust on touching them. At +the bottom of the pit were several pieces of +wood, placed against the side of it, so as to +assist the person who was to ascend by the rope +into the aperture.</p> + +<p>Belzoni saw the impossibility of advancing at +the moment, and Mr. Beechey, who was with +him, was also disappointed of advancing any +farther. However, the next day, by means of +a long beam, they succeeded in sending a man +up into the aperture, and having contrived to +make a little bridge of two beams, they crossed +the pit, which was fourteen feet wide, twelve +feet long, and thirty feet deep.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="084under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/084under.jpg" alt="Workers with torches crossing the pit"> +</figure> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—How much pleasure Belzoni would +have lost if he had not been so courageous! +To what place did that small aperture lead, +mother? I wonder why the Egyptians took +so much pains: always to have crossed that +terrible pit must have been very troublesome.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">111</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—They found this little aperture to +be merely an opening forced through a wall, +that had entirely closed the entrance, which was +as large as the corridor. The Egyptians had +closely shut it up, plastered the wall over, and +painted it like the rest of the sides of the pit, +so that but for the aperture, it would have been +impossible to suppose that there was any farther +proceeding; and one would have concluded +that the tomb ended with the pit.</p> + +<p>Belzoni and his friend entered this narrow +aperture. When they had passed through it, +they found themselves in a large and beautiful +hall, in which were four square pillars. At the +end of this entrance hall was a large door, from +which three steps led down into a chamber with +two pillars. Belzoni gave this room the name +of the drawing-room, to distinguish it from the +others; it was covered with figures, which +though only outlined, were so fine and perfect, +that one might think they had been drawn only +the day before. Returning into the entrance +hall, they found a large staircase descending +into a corridor, which they entered. They +perceived that the paintings became more perfect +as they advanced farther into the interior; +the varnish that was laid over the colours had a +fine effect, and it was astonishing that they were +in such good preservation. This corridor led +them to a smaller chamber, which they called +the room of beauties.</p> + +<p>They named it so, I suppose, because it was +adorned with such beautiful figures in basso relievo +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">112</span>and painted; when standing in the centre +of this chamber, the traveller is surrounded by +an assembly of Egyptian gods and goddesses. +Proceeding onwards they entered a large hall, +in which there were two rows of square pillars. +Belzoni named this, the hall of pillars.</p> + +<p>A step at the end of this hall of pillars led +into a large saloon, with an arched roof or ceiling, +and there were entrances from this saloon +into many other large rooms and chambers; +but what Belzoni found in the centre of the +saloon delighted him more than any thing else, +and sufficiently compensated for the danger he +had undergone in crossing the little bridge over +the great pit, and creeping through the narrow +aperture.</p> + +<p>It was a sarcophagus of the finest oriental +alabaster, nine feet long and three feet wide, +transparent, and minutely sculptured within +and without with several hundred figures, representing, +I suppose, the whole of the funeral +processions and ceremonies relating to the deceased +king, united with emblems and other +devices. To give you an accurate account of +all Mr. Belzoni saw in this tomb, would take us +too long; you must visit the <i>fac simile</i>, as Laura +calls it, in London, and then your curiosity will +be gratified by seeing representations of the +drawings, paintings, hieroglyphics, emblems, and +ornaments which it contained.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="112over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/112over.jpg" alt="Belzoni discovers alabaster sarcophagus"> +</figure> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—But were these devices of no use at +all, mother? Could not Belzoni decipher them +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">113</span>sufficiently to know what monarch was laid +there?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—As I have told you before, my dear, +the hieroglyphical system has for many years +been thrown aside, therefore it is almost impossible +fully to ascertain any facts conveyed +by it. A gentleman of distinguished eminence +in literature has, however, lately employed much +of his time in endeavouring to find the right +key for reading this almost unknown language. +If he succeed in his arduous and difficult undertaking, +he will be enabled to give to the world +the history of one of the most primitive nations, +of which we are now nearly ignorant. In the +hall of pillars, which I mentioned just now, a +company of Ethiopians were painted, and distinguished +by their colour and ornaments. The +gentleman of whom I am speaking found the +name of Psammuthis inserted among the hieroglyphics. +Psammuthis made war against the +Ethiopians; it is therefore supposed to be his +tomb. The Arabs made great report of Belzoni’s +discovery; it came at last to the ears of +Hamed Aga of Kenneh, and he was told that +great treasure was found in the tomb.</p> + +<p>This was sufficient to excite his curiosity, but +not enough to gratify it. When the important +news reached him, he collected his soldiers together +and departed immediately for Thebes, +which is generally a journey of two days, but +he travelled with such rapidity as to arrive in +the valley of Beban el Malook in thirty-six +hours.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">114</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Belzoni must have been very much +amused when he saw him, mother, knowing that +he was come on such a foolish expedition; and +Hamed Aga himself must have been not a little +mortified to find his trouble was fruitless: for I +do not fancy the paintings and figures gave him +much pleasure.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Before his arrival, some Arabs conveyed +the intelligence to Belzoni and his friend +that they saw from the tops of the mountains a +great many Turks on horseback, entering the +valley and coming towards them.</p> + +<p>Belzoni could not conceive who they could +be, as he had never seen any Turks near the +spot. Half an hour after they gave the signal +of their approach by firing several guns.</p> + +<p>Belzoni at first fancied that it might be an +armed force sent to storm the tombs and rocks, +and to destroy the hall of pillars and the +room of beauties! but he soon found that it +was the well known Hamed Aga of Kenneh, +for some time commander of the eastern side of +Thebes, and his followers.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—But what business had he to go to +the valley of Beban el Malook? It is on the +west, you know, and consequently under another +ruler.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Oh, I suppose that in case of a +treasure being discovered, the first that hears of +it takes it for granted that <i>he</i> is entitled to it!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Yes: as a matter of privilege. +When Hamed Aga was introduced to Belzoni, +he smiled and saluted him very cordially; perhaps +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">115</span>a little self-interest induced him to do so. +They caused several lights to be brought, and +descended together into the tomb. The symbolical +representations on the walls of this extraordinary +place did not attract his attention in +the least; all the striking figures and lively +paintings were lost upon him; his views were +directed to the <i>treasure</i> alone, and his attendants, +equally regardless of real beauties, sought +in every hole and corner in hopes of finding the +wished-for-prize. Nothing, however, appearing, +to satisfy their master or themselves, after a +long and minute survey, the Aga ordered the +soldiers to retire, and whispered to Belzoni in a +cautious manner, “Pray where have you put +the treasure?” “What treasure?” said Belzoni. +“The treasure you found in this place,” replied +Hamed. Our friend smiled, as well he might +do, at the question, and assured him that he had +found no treasure there; but this only confirmed +the troublesome Aga in his supposition. He +laughed, and still continued to entreat that it +might be shown him, adding, “I have been told +by a person to whom I can give credit, that +you have found in this place a large golden +cock filled with diamonds and pearls. I must +see it. Where is it?”</p> + +<p>Belzoni could scarcely refrain from laughing, +whilst he assured him that nothing of the kind +had been found there. Seeming quite disappointed, +Hamed seated himself before the beautiful +sarcophagus, to Belzoni’s great dismay, +who dreaded that he would take it into his head +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">116</span>that this was the treasure, and break it to +pieces, to see whether it contained any gold; +and, as their notions of treasure are confined to +gold and jewels, I own there seemed some +danger of it. At last, however, he gave up +the idea of the expected riches, and rose to go +out of the tomb. Belzoni asked him what he +thought of the beautiful figures painted all +around. He just gave an indifferent glance at +them, saying, “this would be a good place for +a harem, as the women would have something +to look at.” And though only half persuaded +that there was no treasure, he set off with an +appearance of disappointment and vexation.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—I do not like that Hamed Aga of +Kenneh, at all! He had no taste, had he mother?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—What do you call taste?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Laura says, that it is the power +which the mind possesses of admiring and relishing +the beauties found in nature and art: therefore +I imagine Hamed Aga had none: and he +makes me think of a passage I was reading +yesterday, mother; about a Frenchman, who, +when he saw the sea for the first time, said that +it was <i>assez jolie</i>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Some of Akenside’s beautiful lines +occur to me:</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“Say what is Taste, but the internal powers</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Active and strong, and feelingly alive</div> + <div class="verse indent0">To each fine impulse?—a discerning sense</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Of decent and sublime, with quick disgust</div> + <div class="verse indent0">From things deformed.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">117</span></p> + +<p>Though our Aga did not possess this “internal +power” in any eminent degree, we must +not judge that it is confined to the polished +part of mankind only; on the contrary, it is as +common to a rude state of society as to an early +period of life. Even the <i>wild</i> tribes, who inhabit +the back settlements of America, contemplate +their extensive lakes, the Ohio and the +Ontario, with astonishment, and gaze upon the +starry heavens with delight. Although born in +so rude a state, they are “feelingly alive to +each fine impulse.”</p> + +<p>Belzoni having embarked all that was found +this season, left Thebes with another accumulation +of antiquities, and arrived at Boolac after +ten months’ absence.</p> + +<p>He there engaged Signor Ricci, a young man +from Italy, to return with him to Thebes, and +to make drawings and imitations of the hieroglyphics. +Mrs. Belzoni resolved to visit the +Holy Land in the mean time, and to wait for +Belzoni at Jerusalem, whither he intended going +when the model of the tomb was completed. +She did not admire the inhabitants of Luxor +and Thebes; and the idea of visiting the Holy +Land had first induced her to accompany Mr. +Belzoni into Egypt; therefore thinking this a +good opportunity, she left Cairo attended by +the Irish boy and a Janizary.</p> + +<p>Belzoni however, before he returned to +Thebes, determined to visit the Pyramids in +company with two other Europeans. You recollect +that when Belzoni was first at Cairo he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">118</span>visited them, and that they are scattered about +on the Libyan desert, to the west of that place.</p> + +<p>There is so little agreement upon the subject +of the builders of the Pyramids, either among +the natives or historians, that we, like Pliny, +must consider this uncertainty as a just reward +of the vanity of those by whom they were +actually erected; and of course, as we cannot +determine who were the builders of them, we +should only mis-spend our time by attempting +to fix the period of their erection. I believe +that their <i>least</i> antiquity must be near three +thousand years, as Herodotus, who you know +was one of our first historians, and who lived +above two thousand years ago, found so little +satisfaction in his enquiries after them; and Diodorus, +who also lived before the birth of our +Saviour, supposes the great pyramid to have +been built one thousand years before his time.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Will you tell me, dear mother, why +the uncertainty in which we are left respecting +them, should be a just reward of the vanity of +those by whom they were erected? I do not +understand what you mean by saying so.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—It is generally supposed that these +pyramids were designed as tombs and monuments +for the dead; and does it not appear to +you, my dear Emily, that a little vanity must +have actuated men to spend so much time and +be at so much expense for such a purpose; intending, +as it were to convey to future ages +proofs of their power, and mementos of their +greatness?</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">119</span></p> + +<p>I am not so uncharitable, however, as to suppose +that this was the only motive for which +they were built. The Egyptian theology taught +its votaries, that if the body was destroyed after +death the soul underwent transmigration into +the bodies of all sorts of animals for three +thousand years, and at the end of that space returned +to a human, though not to the original +form, as that would be destroyed by that time; +but so long as the body was preserved the soul +continued with it, and thus avoided for so much +of the three thousand years the unhappiness of +these transformations; this may account for the +great pains and curious precautions of the +Egyptians with regard to their deceased friends.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—I am glad to hear this, mother, for I +shall be no longer puzzled with wondering what +so many tombs and monuments were for: and +the motive for embalming the mummies is now +very clear. And now for the pyramids.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Some of the pyramids had an entrance, +and were known to be hollow, and +others had not. Whilst Belzoni’s friends went +into the first pyramid, which is nearly the height +of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, he seated +himself on a large stone near the second pyramid, +which is about the same height, and fixed +his eyes on that enormous mass, which for so +many ages has baffled the conjectures of ancient +and modern writers.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="112under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/112under.jpg" alt="Belzoni watching his friends enter the pyramid"> +</figure> + +<p>Should you not like to know all the thoughts +that passed through his mind as he sat upon +that great stone.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">120</span></p> + +<p>The sight of this amazing work astonished +him, as much as the total obscurity in which we +are of its origin, its interior, and its construction. +One of the greatest wonders of the +world stood before him, without his knowing +whether it had any cavity within, or whether it +was only one solid mass.</p> + +<p>Various attempts had been made by numerous +travellers to find an entrance into this pyramid, +but so ineffectually, that there seemed little +probability that even our enterprising Belzoni +could succeed. However, experience had taught +him to anticipate success! and he knew very +well that the greatest difficulties may be overcome +by patience and perseverance.</p> + +<p>He rose at length, and by an involuntary impulse, +walked round the pyramid, surveying +every part, and almost every stone. When he +came on the north side he observed indications +that induced him to attempt searching there for +an entrance. He perceived an accumulation +of huge stones; consequently he had some +hopes of finding a passage under this heap of +ruins.</p> + +<p>The following day he resolved to make a +closer examination, without communicating his +secret to any one. This review encouraged +him in the attempt, and he applied without loss +of time to the Bey for men to assist him in +penetrating one of the great pyramids of Egypt—one +of the wonders of the world!</p> + +<p>Accordingly he left Cairo, having provided +himself with a small tent and some provisions, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">121</span>that he might not be obliged to return to the +city. He found eighty Arabs ready to work, +and immediately set about the operation. They +were daily paid one piastre (or sixpence) each. +Several boys and girls of your age were also +employed to carry away the earth as the men +dug it. Belzoni contrived to ensure their good will +by trifles and presents, and by pointing +out to them the advantage they would gain +if they succeeded in penetrating into the pyramid, +as many strangers would come to see it, +and they would get bakshis from them.</p> + +<p>Belzoni knew that nothing has so much influence +on the mind of an Arab as reasoning with +him about his own interest, and showing him +the right way to benefit himself. He does not +seem to understand any thing else.</p> + +<p>These Arabs worked with earnestness for +some days; but after many vain expectations, +and much labour in removing the mortar, which +was so hard that their hatchets, which were the +only instruments that could be procured, were +nearly all broken, they began to flag in their +prospect of finding any thing; and Belzoni +seemed about to become an object of ridicule, +for making the attempt to penetrate into a place +which appeared to them, as well as to more +civilized people, a mere mass of stone!</p> + +<p>The cause of the pyramid appearing like a +solid rock was, that the mortar which fell from +the upper part of it had been moistened by the +dew (for in spring and summer very heavy +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">122</span>dews fall in Egypt at night,) and had gradually +formed itself into one mass with the stones.</p> + +<p>Belzoni’s hopes did not forsake him, notwithstanding +so many difficulties presented themselves; +and the Arabs, although their zeal was +somewhat lessened, did not cease to work as +long as they received a daily piastre. At last, +after sixteen days of fruitless toil, one of the +Arabian workmen perceived a small chink between +two stones of the pyramid. Belzoni +could just thrust a long palm stick into it, which +he did upwards of two yards; and the Arab +was equally delighted with himself, thinking +that <i>he</i> had found the entrance so eagerly +sought for.</p> + +<p>Encouraged by this circumstance, the people +resumed their former vigour, and the work +went on rapidly. After removing one of these +stones, and a great quantity of sand and rubbish, +they came to an opening inwards. Having +made it wide enough to enter, Belzoni took a +candle in his hand, and, looking in, perceived a +spacious cavity, of which he could form no conjecture. +The size of the entrance was increased, +and he found that it was a forced passage, +probably intended to find a way to the centre +of the pyramid. But the hope that this would +lead to the real entrance was in vain: it gave +him none, and after much trouble in enlarging +it, he remained as ignorant as he was before he +began.</p> + +<p>He gave a day’s rest to the Arabs after this +disappointment, and dedicated the interim of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">123</span>their repose to a closer inspection of the stupendous +pile; for he was determined on the +accomplishment of his intended purpose.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I suppose that the ill success of the +discovery of the forced passage was considered +as a failure. However, I hope he will not give +it up. I dare say the thought of Young Memnon, +and of the temple of Ybsambul, gave him +encouragement.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The result of this day of researches +was, that it would be better to begin in another +part; and accordingly the Arabs were again set +to work. They liked to receive their money, +but they had no expectation that an entrance +would ever be found! and Belzoni often heard +them uttering in a low voice, “<i>magnoon!</i>” which +is, in plain English, madman! However, they +went on with their excavations, and in a few +days Belzoni discovered a large block of granite: +this gave him much pleasure. The next day +three large blocks of granite were uncovered. +His expectation and hope increased; as, to all +appearance, he was near attaining the object of +his search. Happily he was not mistaken; for +on the next day, the 2d of March, 1818, at noon, +they came to the right entrance into the pyramid. +It proved to be a passage only four feet +high, and it was almost filled up with large +stones, which had fallen from the upper part. +With some difficulty the stones were drawn out +of this passage: and it was not until the evening +of the next day that they reached solid +rock.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">124</span></p> + +<p>At first sight it appeared to be a fixed block +of stone, and said <i>ne plus ultra</i>, as if ready to +put an end to all Belzoni’s projects. On a close +inspection, however, Mr. Belzoni perceived that, +at the bottom, this immense block was raised +about eight inches from the groove cut to receive +it, and that it formed in fact a portcullis, +or sliding door of granite, one foot three inches +thick. To raise it was a work of immense difficulty, +but it obeyed Mr. Belzoni’s talisman, perseverance; +and it was raised high enough for a +man to pass. An Arab entered with a torch, +and returned saying the place within was very +fine.</p> + +<p>They continued by unwearied efforts to raise +the portcullis, and at last made the opening +large enough for Belzoni to enter it; and, after +thirty days’ exertion, he had the pleasure of finding +himself in the way to the central chamber +of one of the two mighty pyramids of Egypt. +Having passed through several long passages +cut out of the solid rock, he reached a door at +the centre of a large chamber, and, walking +two or three steps, stood still to contemplate +the place where he was. It was a striking +scene. He was in the centre of that pyramid +which, from time immemorial, has been the subject +of the obscure conjectures of many hundred +travellers, both ancient and modern, and +against whose hollow sides the sound of a human +voice had not re-echoed for more than a +thousand years!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Oh, mother! how awful it must +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">125</span>have been! This was better than all—even than +entering the temple of Ybsambul, or the tomb +of Psammuthis!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Belzoni’s torch, formed of a few +wax candles, but faintly glimmered; and he +looked round the spot where not a ray of light +had penetrated for more than eleven centuries! +He was in the middle of one of those stupendous +pyramids, which, in defiance of the ravages +of time, still remain as monuments of ancient +magnificence, and of the evanescent glory of +those by whom they were erected.</p> + +<p>In the central chamber, which is cut out of +the solid rock, except the roof, which is built of +blocks of stone, he found, buried on a level with +the floor, a sarcophagus eight feet long three +feet six inches wide and two feet three inches +deep. It was surrounded with large blocks of +granite, apparently intended to prevent its removal. +Its lid was partly off, and it contained +a quantity of earth, stones and some bones. +From an Arabic inscription on the wall of this +chamber, it appears that some of the Arab +rulers of Egypt had opened this pyramid, and +closed it again.</p> + +<p>When Belzoni had examined, and entered +and re-entered the many chambers and passages +within the pyramid, he returned to open daylight, +highly gratified with the result of his researches: +and I imagine, Owen, that he felt no +small degree of satisfaction in applying to himself +our favourite motto—</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—“<i>Labor omnia vincit</i>,” mother! and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">126</span>it shall be <i>my</i> motto, whenever I have any +thing difficult to do.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—In a few days, Belzoni, having +settled his affairs, became anxious to return to +the valley of Beban el Malook; and not omitting +to provide himself with every thing necessary +for forming models and impressions of the +figures, emblems, and hieroglyphics in the tomb +of Psammuthis, he set off for his old habitation +among the sepulchres of Thebes.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Do let us follow him, dear +mother: I am very glad he had such success +in entering the pyramid, and I hope he will +have as much in every thing that he undertakes, +I see that patience is a very good quality, +mother.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—So it is, my dear boy; and if you +will exercise it till to-morrow evening, I mean +to tell you something more.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V"> + CHAPTER V. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Belzoni’s journey to the Red Sea.—Motives for going there.—Inundation +of the Nile.—The Caravan crosses the Desert.—Account +of Ababde, an independent tribe, residing among +the rocks on the coast of the Red Sea.—Journey in search +for the ancient city of Berenice.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p>Evening came. The curtains were drawn; +the candles lighted; and the juvenile party +seated around their mother. “Mother always +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">127</span>fulfils her promise,” whispered Bernard to Emily: +“we need not put her in mind of Belzoni.”</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span> overheard her little boy, smiled, and +resumed her narrative:</p> + +<p>Our friend was just about to return to the +tombs of the kings when we took leave of him +last night, I believe. After a rapid and agreeable +voyage up the Nile, he arrived there and +immediately proceeded to take drawings and +models, which employment detained him some +months.</p> + +<p>And we are now going to accompany him to +the Red Sea, which lies between Egypt and +Arabia. You shall soon hear what inducement +Belzoni had for going to the Red Sea.</p> + +<p>Our old friend, Mahomed Ali, the Bashaw, +had been informed that there were some sulphur +mines in the mountains near the seacoast, +and had sent an escort of soldiers and sixty +camels to load with sulphur: but they had not +succeeded in procuring it. However, this poor +success, did not discourage Ali, who was always +ready to persevere in any enterprise. I dare +say you recollect that he was of an active inquisitive +disposition; fond of new projects and +new pursuits. He was delighted with the electrical +machine, because he had never seen one +before: he had a sugar-mill, a silk manufacture, +and a gunpowder mill; and now he wanted +sulphur. Sulphur is used in the composition of +gunpowder: probably that was what he wanted +it for.</p> + +<p>He was advised to send some Europeans +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">128</span>to the Red Sea, who might bring him word +whether it were worth while to proceed in +the discovery of sulphur. Monsieur Calliaud +undertook the task, and set off, accompanied by +an escort of soldiers, and miners from Syria. +But he found the mines as sterile as they had +been described, and returned back: not neglecting, +however, to visit the emerald mountains in +his way, according to instructions he had received +from his former employer, Mr. Drouetti. +He found several caves or mines in those +mountains which had evidently been left by the +ancients.</p> + +<p>Belzoni saw Monsieur Calliaud, and his account +tempted him to commence his expedition. +Monsieur Calliaud told him that there were +mines in the country, and also that he had +visited a place called Sakiet Minor, situated in +a valley near the sea, and surrounded by high +rocks. From the account he gave Belzoni, a +notion became impressed on the minds of many +antiquaries in Egypt that it must have been the +ancient city of Berenice; and from the moment +our friend heard this report, he conceived the +idea of making an excursion into those deserts +on a visit to Berenice, and only waited a proper +time to execute his intended journey.</p> + +<p>Time had almost destroyed every remnant +of the city; but Calliaud reported that he had +discovered the remains of eight hundred houses, +and several temples, as well as a small chapel +cutout of the rock, and that the ruins resembled +those of Pompeii. Of course, our enterprising +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">129</span>antiquary was anxious to inspect the remains +of this once celebrated place, and having hired +a boat to take them to Edfu, they embarked +near Gournou. The company consisted of himself, +Mr. Beechey, a doctor who was going to +cross the Desert, two Greek servants, a miner, +and two boys to take care of the baggage.</p> + +<p>It so happened that just after they commenced +their journey, they were to behold one of the +greatest calamities that have occurred in Egypt +in the recollection of any one living. The Nile +rose this season three feet above its usual height, +with uncommon rapidity, and carried off several +villages and some hundreds of their inhabitants.</p> + +<p>Belzoni witnessed this distressing scene, and +he says that he never saw any picture that could +give a more correct idea of the deluge than the +valley of the Nile at this season. The Arabs +had expected an extraordinary inundation this +year in consequence of the scarcity of water +the preceding year, but they did not apprehend +it would rise to such a height.</p> + +<p>They generally make fences of earth and +reeds around their villages, to keep the water +from entering their houses; but the force +of this inundation baffled all their efforts. +Their cottages, being built of earth, could not +stand one instant against the current, and the +water had no sooner reached them than it levelled +them with the ground. The rapid stream +carried off all that was before it; men, women, +children, cattle, corn, every thing was washed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">130</span>away in a moment, and left the place where the +village Agalta stood, without any thing to indicate +that there had ever been a house on the +spot. Belzoni says, they appeared to be in the +midst of a vast lake, containing various islands +and magnificent edifices. On one side they beheld +the high rocks and the temples of Gournou, +and on the other the vast ruins of Carnac and +Luxor. He saw several villages in danger of +being destroyed like that of Agalta. The rapid +stream had already carried away their fences, +and the unfortunate inhabitants endeavoured to +ascend the highest parts, with the little they +could preserve from the water. Their distress +was very great. Some of them had only a few +feet of land, and the water was expected to rise +twelve days more, and after that to remain +twelve days at its height, according to the usual +term of the inundation.</p> + +<p>It was a most distressing sight. Some poor +wretches crossed the water on pieces of wood—bridges +might have been contrived from one +island to another, but they would have been no +security; some crossed on buffaloes or cows, +and others with reeds tied up in large bundles. +The small spots of high ground, that stood above +the water were crowded with people, who held +out their hands and implored help.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="128over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/128over.jpg" alt="The Nile in flood, natives seek high ground"> +</figure> + +<p>Poor creatures! There obliged to stand +dreading every moment to be washed away; or, +at least without any hope of relief before the +end of twenty-four days.</p> + +<p>The scanty stock of provisions they had saved +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">131</span>was the only subsistence they could expect. +The Cacheffs and Caimakans of the country did +all they could to assist the unfortunate creatures +with their little boats, but they were so few in +proportion to what were wanted that they could +not relieve the greater part of them.</p> + +<p>Belzoni would, most willingly, have taken some +in his own little boat, but he knew it would be +dangerous to attempt it, for so many would have +entered it at once that the boat would probably +have sunk.</p> + +<p>On their arrival at Erments, where happily +the land was very high, they found many of the +neighbouring people collected.</p> + +<p>Belzoni landed there, and employed his boat +to fetch some of the poor wretches. He was +courageous, courage is generally united with +humanity and kindness. He was therefore rejoiced +to find that he could be of some little service, +and his boat was sent again and again in +company with others to fetch the people from +the opposite village. It at first returned with +men and boys; then with men, corn and cattle; +then with more corn, buffaloes, sheep, goats, +asses, and dogs; and then with the women, who, +I am sorry to say, are there treated as the most +insignificant part of their property.</p> + +<p>With the gratifying reflection of having been +of some little service, our party arrived at +Esne.</p> + +<p>Their old friend, Khalil Bey was from home; +they therefore proceeded to the island of Hovasee, +on the opposite side of the Nile to Edfu.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">132</span></p> + +<p>They stopped there only long enough to procure +camels and men to accompany them across +the desert, and they went on shore on the eastern +side, and set off the next day.</p> + +<p>They had sixteen of those patient, gentle +creatures, the camels; six of them were laden +with provisions, water, and culinary utensils. +Camels were much better than horses, because +they are used to carry merchandise across the +large sandy plains, which would be impassable +unless Providence had created this useful animal, +which is capable of enduring hunger and +fatigue, and wonderfully provided with a resource +against thirst by an internal formation, +which enables it to drink at one time water +enough to serve it for many days.</p> + +<p>The party was increased by a soldier from +Esne, four camel drivers, and a Scheik to guide +them. Fourteen men in all.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="128under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/128under.jpg" alt="Laden camels and camel drivers"> +</figure> + +<p>Scheik Ibrahim their guide, was an Arab. +He had engaged to attend the caravan as chief, +promising to conduct Belzoni and his friends to +the ancient Berenice.</p> + +<p>They set off very early in the morning, and +arrived at the first well in three hours. There +they remained the whole day waiting for +Ibrahim, who had not yet joined them. However +the following morning he appeared, and +they entered a good and level road through a +valley. Many sunt and sycamore trees were +interspersed about this valley with the thorny +plant called basillah, upon which the camels feed. +It is green I believe in the spring, but it soon +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">133</span>becomes dry, and of course of a straw colour. +It bears a small fruit of the size of a pea. +The stalk resembles that of a rush, and it never +grows higher than three feet.</p> + +<p>As our party advanced, the valley became +narrow, and the trees, in some parts, thicker; +but they gradually diminished until Belzoni and +his companions found themselves on a wide and +open plain; they took up their abode for the +day at a sort of temple or enclosure, evidently +built for the accommodation of travellers. The +next morning they pursued their journey. Not +the least vegetation was to be seen any where. +Sometimes they passed over wide and level +plains, and sometimes crossed hills of loose sand, +till two hours before sunset, when they entered +a valley called Beezak by the Arabs.</p> + +<p>Several trees were scattered about in this +valley, and the usual thorn also, so the camels +had a feast. They halted there for the night, +and Belzoni was gratified by perceiving the +marks of camels’ feet impressed on the sand, +whence he concluded that he was on the great +road to Berenice.</p> + +<p>The next morning the caravan, as in the eastern +countries they call a company of travellers, +who, for mutual protection and safety agree to +cross the desert regions together, was divided +into three different detachments.</p> + +<p>The luggage and provisions were sent forward; +the doctor was ill, it was therefore dangerous +for him to proceed any farther and he +returned towards the Nile, whilst Mr. Belzoni +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">134</span>and his friend Mr. Beechey went a little out of +the way to see something that the Ababde had +mentioned.</p> + +<p>The Ababde, are an independent tribe, who, +preferring freedom and liberty to any thing +else, reside among the solitary rocks and deserts +which extend from the confines of Suez to +Nubia, on the borders of the Red Sea, where +they live upon dhourra and water. But such is +their love of liberty, that they would rather +submit to this mode of life than to the command +of any government on earth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—So would I! rather than be subject +to the caprice of a tyrannical power at all +events. Liberty, independence, for me, mother! +Will you tell me something more about the +Ababde? I admire them very much.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Perhaps your admiration would be +lessened were you to see them: they are of +small stature, badly made, and have generally a +pipe in their mouths. Sometimes, but not often, +they kill a lean goat, and this they consider a +great feast. Their principal care is for their +camels, which are their support; for when +they are arrived at a certain growth they send +them to be exchanged for dhourra, which as +I have told you constitutes their food.</p> + +<p>Some of the most industrious of the Ababde +cut wood and make charcoal with it, which +they send to the Nile on their camels, and barter +it for dhourra, tallow, and tent cloth. Few, +however, undergo such a labour, for they like +to live at their ease.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">135</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Well, mother, I would much +rather be one of the harmless Ababde, and cut +down sunt trees among the rocks and deserts, +load my camel, and honestly earn the reward +of my labour, than one of the deceitful Arabs +at Gournou.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The Arabs of Gournou seem to +have made a strong impression on your mind, +my dear. However, I am of your opinion, +that a poor and honest life is preferable to one +dependent upon mean resources.</p> + +<p>Belzoni entered with his friends into a sandy +plain, with rocks of white stone on each side +nearly perpendicular, and passed through several +beautiful and romantic valleys. The soil was +sandy and stony, but the thorny trees and the +sunt trees formed a complete forest in many +parts. One who wishes to retire from the +world might find a charming retreat in these +wilds, were it not for the want of water, and +all that is necessary to the subsistence of human +life, besides the intense heat of the sun, +which on calm days is so great as to be almost +insupportable. Advancing onwards, in three +hours they reached a summit, whence they perceived +at some distance what appeared to be +the walls of a large and extensive town surrounded +by high rocks, as if by fortifications. +On their approach, they found it was an extensive +sandy plain, with several granite eminences. +From this place they travelled to the left, towards +the valley in which it was intended they +should halt. The caravan had reached the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">136</span>place before them, and they proceeded on their +march till they overtook it near a well, situated +in the midst of rocks, which, interspersed with +trees, formed an amphitheatre round it. There +they remained a day or two.</p> + +<p>Whilst there, they were visited by a number +of the Ababde. It was a novelty for strangers +to come so near them; the greater part of them +had never quitted their mountains, and those +few who had been to the Nile to purchase +dhourra were accounted men of great knowledge. +They said that they were content to +live in that wild state, as all their forefathers +had done, to remain free from tyranny and +despotism; and that they would be quiet if +they were left so; but on the contrary they +would sooner perish than lose their liberty.</p> + +<p>You would have been amused if you could +have seen with what curiosity they eyed the +strangers, and at their ignorance of things in +common use with us. One of them perceived +a piece of lemon-peel lying on the ground and +wondered what it was, whilst another took it up +and ate it with an air of great self-sufficiency. +I dare say he had been to the Nile, and did so +to show the great knowledge he had acquired—that +lemon-peel is good to eat.</p> + +<p>Belzoni gave them a piece of loaf sugar, and +when they had eaten it, they declared that the +valley he came from must be better than theirs, +as it produced such good and sweet bread.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Had they arms, mother? But I +suppose not, for as their neighbours did not +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">137</span>injure them, of course they would not wish to +attack their neighbours.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Unfortunately they had some use +for them, for the soldiers and miners, who had +accompanied Monsieur Calliaud to the emerald +mines, which are among these mountains, had +behaved very ill towards them, assailed their +huts, and committed many depredations, of +which the Ababde complained very much. +Their arms were chiefly slings, spears and +swords.</p> + +<p>Early on the morning of the 28th Belzoni +and his party again set off, and travelled for +two days, when they saw the Red Sea at a +great distance, and bent their course through +several valleys to a very high mountain called +Zubara.</p> + +<p>This name is given it in consequence of the +emeralds which have been found there. At +the foot of this mountain about fifty men were +encamped, and at work in the old mines of the +ancients, in hopes of finding some of the precious +stones. Their work had commenced +about six months before, but had been attended +with no success, as the mines were nearly +choked up with rubbish. Belzoni contrived to +acquire all the information he could about the +object of their expedition and received very +favourable accounts of it, being assured that +the ruins of the town of which he was in search +was only six hours’ distance; he therefore +hoped to have a fine view of it before night. +Whilst the camels halted he went to see the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">138</span>entrances into the mines. They were something +like the common tombs or mummy pits at +Gournou, cut in the rock, and extended a great +distance before the emeralds were found. Belzoni +procured an old man from among the +natives to guide them to the ruins of the anticipated +Berenice, and sought information from +some of the miners who had been at the very +place when Monsieur Calliaud was there. Their +accounts certainly did not correspond with his; +he had raised Belzoni’s expectations very highly, +you know.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Oh yes, mother. There must have +been a city I am sure, for Monsieur Calliaud +told Mr. Belzoni that he had discovered the remains +of eight hundred houses, and several +temples, as well as a small chapel cut out of the +rock, and that the ruins resembled those of +Pompeii. I dare say that these people went +only in search of mines, and did not pay much +regard to the beauties of architecture, or the +grandeur of ancient ruins!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—So Belzoni thought; and, encouraged +by this hope, they prepared for a departure +the following morning. When they +had gone about half a mile, they perceived that +they were without their guides. Both the +Scheik Ibrahim, and the old man who was to +conduct them over the country to see the town +and other places, were missing; they were consequently +obliged to return in search of them, +and found them hid behind a rock, conversing +secretly with each other.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">139</span></p> + +<p>This appeared rather suspicious, but they professed +to have been in search of a sheep which +was stolen in the night, and they had nothing +else to live upon; but, as they said they could +not find it, they again set off for the much-desired +and ancient city of Berenice.</p> + +<p>They trusted themselves to the guidance of +the old man, though they were not pleased with +his manœuvres. The road lay through high +rocks and narrow valleys, embosomed with +trees, until they had gradually approached the +mountain of Zubara, the highest of the emerald +mountains. Here they were led by the old +man in various directions, through wild and +craggy places, for seven hours. He told that +the spot he wanted was near, but that they had +a high pass to go over the mountain named +Arrarie.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Before we follow them, will you +be so good as to tell me where Pompeii is? +Emily says that Monsieur Calliaud stated that +the ruins of Berenice resembled those of that +city.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—It was once a large city of Italy, +my love, but was overwhelmed by an eruption +of Mount Vesuvius. About fifty years since, a +farmer was digging for a spring of water or +deep ditch, when he came to the top of magnificent +buildings. This was the first discovery +for many hundred years; and now several +streets and the ruins of many majestic buildings +have been discovered. The name of the place +was Pompeii.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">140</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI"> + CHAPTER VI. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Search for the ancient city of Berenice.—The boats of the +Ababde fishermen described.—Discovers the remains of the +Berenice mentioned by a former traveller.—Returns towards +Esne.—Meets with two shepherd girls tending their sheep on +the mountains.—Sufferings of travellers in crossing the Deserts.—The +caravan reaches the banks of the Nile.—Belzoni +returns to Gournou.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Our travellers continued their journey, +for hope gave them patience, and ascended +something like an ancient road, or rather path. +On the summit of the mountain above they observed +a large wall, so situated that it appeared +to look over the path and both sides of the +mountain.</p> + +<p>When they reached the top of the road their +camels were quite exhausted: some of them +had fallen on the way, and were unloaded to +enable them to ascend; and the strongest +camels had to return to fetch the loads of the +others. A steep craggy road over a mountain +is no more adapted to a camel than the deep +sand of the Desert to a horse.</p> + +<p>When they reached the summit, they began +to look for the desired Berenice; but, alas! in +vain. Their hopes had been so raised by Monsieur +Calliaud, that Belzoni’s active imagination +had already pictured the remains of some majestic +dome, or lofty column, or noble edifice, by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">141</span>which he expected to distinguish the town, and +which was to serve as a guide to the spot, +whither he intended to hasten the moment he +beheld it. His companion was not less anxious +than himself, and his ideas were equally excited. +They had made arrangements how to proceed +when they arrived there. As their provision +was scanty, they could stop but a few days, and +had already distributed their time accordingly. +He was to take drawings of all the beautiful +buildings, monuments, figures, paintings, sculptures, +statues, and columns. Belzoni was to +survey all the vast ruins as fast as he could; to +observe where any thing was to be found or discovered: +to take measures of all the monuments +and place of every stone in that great city.</p> + +<p>Such pleasing ideas had the fertile fancy of +our antiquaries excited. Now to the fact.</p> + +<p>From the summit upon which they were, they +expected to have a view not only of the sea, +but of a wide plain also; as it was natural to +suppose, that a town like Pompeii could not +have been entirely built among those wild mountains. +Not perceiving any, they expected to +be agreeably surprised, on turning some of the +rocks, by beholding one. The old man told +them that, previous to reaching the town, they +would see some grottoes in the mountains, which +their vivid imaginations made them conclude +were the tombs of the inhabitants of Berenice. +They advanced insensibly, continually keeping +their eyes fixed on the points of some rocks +which stood before them, with the hope that, on +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">142</span>turning the next angle, the glorious sight would +present itself; and, indeed, the scattered and +ruined walls of some ancient enclosures announced +to them that they would soon see some +habitation.</p> + +<p>They observed a square hole in the rock, +which had evidently been cut by some of the +miners in form of a chapel.</p> + +<p>Belzoni now began to congratulate himself +that they had nearly arrived, and, whilst employed +with these thoughts, the old man who +was at the head, serving as a guide, made a sign +to halt. The drivers gave a signal to the camels, +and the camels, who were already weak and exhausted +by passing over the mountains, did not +wait for its repetition, but with all the luggage, +were crouched in a moment on the ground, before +Belzoni was able to account for it. He +told the drivers that he did not intend to stop +there, but wished to advance farther into the +town, where the houses might be seen; when, +to his no small astonishment, he was told by the +old man that this was the very spot where the +Christian had been before.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—What an odd, mysterious old man +he was, mother! I do not admire him at all. +By the other Christian, he meant Monsieur +Calliaud, I suppose. But it is quite impossible +that <i>he</i> could have called this place Berenice: +and where were the eight hundred houses?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Belzoni himself could hardly suppose +that the account he had received would be +so exaggerated, as to lead him to suppose he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">143</span>should find another Pompeii instead of the place +at which he had just arrived; and he reproached +the old man for stopping there, and not advancing +to the town, which, according to his own +account, could not be far off. He again protested +that this was the spot, and that there was +no other with houses in any part of the deserts +or mountains. Belzoni was incredulous; and +resolving not to submit to what he believed to +be the imposition of the old man, as it now +wanted four hours to sunset, he mounted his +camel again.</p> + +<p>His friend, Mr. Beechey went with him, consequently +all the caravan followed at a distance. +They entered a long valley, and, filled with the +hope of seeing the ancient city, our travellers +proceeded for four hours without perceiving a +single habitation.</p> + +<p>You may fancy, how desolate it was, and how +much disappointed they must have felt. The +sun was just setting, you know, therefore it +was getting dark; and no house was near.</p> + +<p>At length they reached a valley called +Wady el Gomal, which was almost covered +with a beautiful tree called the egley; and having +lost all hopes of finding Berenice that evening, +they halted to rest on a clean bed of sand, +which I believe was as comfortable as the sugar-cane +bed, Bernard, though Belzoni would certainly +rather have slept among the magnificent +temples of the great city. But the poor camels, +instead of reposing, were obliged to fetch water, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">144</span>both for themselves and their masters, from a +well not less than fifteen miles distant.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I cannot imagine, mother, what could +induce the old man not to show them the place +described by Monsieur Calliaud. Perhaps the +miners at Zubara had told him to keep it secret, +for fear Belzoni should discover any emerald +mines in or near Berenice.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Indeed, they did not know what to +think. Their provisions began to make them +cautious: they had biscuit for twenty days, but +their sheep was lost, you remember. Still they +were easily satisfied, so that they did but reach +the desired emporium of the commerce formerly +carried on by the nations of Europe, with +India.</p> + +<p>Early on the following morning they perceived +a high hill four or five miles from the valley, and +as they had to wait for the return of the camels, +they thought they might ascend the mountain +to have a view of the country, or of the remains +of the celebrated Berenice. They set +off, and observed on their way several flocks of +wild antelopes skipping about on the craggy +rocks on each side of the beautiful valley, +which, being ornamented with suvaroe and +debbo trees in addition to the egley, formed a +delightful contrast to the wide sandy desert. +No one had probably been in this spot for many +centuries, and very likely no one will pass +through it for many more to come. When they +reached the summit of the mountain they took +a view around: they had a small telescope with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">145</span>them, and the peak on which they stood commanded +a prospect many miles in extent.</p> + +<p>Alas! the much-sought-for town had vanished, +or rather never appeared. No remnants of it +were to be discerned, and Belzoni might have +exclaimed in the words of Shakspeare:</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">The cloud-capt towers, the gorgeous palaces,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">The solemn temples, the great globe itself,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Yea, all which it inherits, shall dissolve,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And, like the baseless fabric of a vision,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Leave not a wreck behind.—</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>Indeed there was ocular demonstration in the +truth of this assertion, with respect to its towers, +temples and palaces; for the once brilliant and +flourishing city had disappeared, and they now +began to be persuaded that Monsieur Calliaud +had seen the town, with its eight hundred houses, +and so much like Pompeii, in his own imagination +only.</p> + +<p>Belzoni observed some high mountains on the +south-east, which the old man, who had followed +them all the way, said were near the sea. They +determined to pursue that course, and to try +whether they could reach the spot described by +a former traveller as being the situation of the +Berenice Trogloditica. Hope seemed always +to cheer our traveller; nothing compelled him +to relinquish his projects.</p> + +<p>They descended the mountain, and returned +to the beautiful valley in which they had passed +the preceding night.</p> + +<p>They waited there, for the return of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">146</span>camels with a fresh supply of water, which they +were much in want of, for there only remained +a single zemzabie or leather bag, containing +about three quarts. Their thirst was great, and +they felt in some degree, the calamity of living +without water. Hunger is painful to endure, +but thirst is far more intolerable. At last, however, +to their great joy, the camels appeared in +sight. The poor drivers were exceedingly fatigued, +and almost unable to proceed. The +caravan travelled on for some hours, and arrived +in another valley, the rocks of which were +nearly perpendicular. After this the hills became +small, and the sandy banks rising one behind +another made them expect to see the sea +very shortly. They went on till a late hour, and +at length halted at a spot where they thought the +sand might again prove a comfortable bed. +Fortunately for Belzoni it was so: for his camel +was so weary, that no sooner did he reach it than +he threw him off his back, and leaving him +there, saddle and all, set off without delay to +feed among the thorns.</p> + +<p>Early the next day they resumed their journey; +but the hills of sand, instead of diminishing, +increased in size, which made them fearful +that they were yet far from the sea. However, +about noon the valley opened all at once, and at +the distance of five miles they saw the Arabian +Gulf.</p> + +<p>You may judge how much joy the sight of +the open horizon must have given them, after +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">147</span>having been so long shut up in that narrow +valley.</p> + +<p>They perceived, on arriving at the shore, that +it was composed as far as they could see of a +mass of petrifications of various kinds.</p> + +<p>The Red Sea is particularly noted for its seaweeds, +corals, shells, and similar productions, +and the bottom of it is literally a forest of submarine +plants. And these are formed into a +solid mass like a rock, which extends from the +bank of sand that forms the boundary of the +tide, and runs into the sea for a great length. +They resolved to take the road along the coast +until they should reach the spot which was +pointed out as Berenice, according to the account +of the traveller whom I named before. It is +not marked on our modern maps. But I believe +it is just by that point of land projecting into +the sea, called Cape Lepte, a little beyond the +24th degree of latitude.</p> + +<p>They acquainted the drivers with their intention, +who, poor creatures, were too much fatigued +willingly to acquiesce in it. They indeed +went so far as absolutely to refuse proceeding, +but at last found it in vain to resist. It was +concluded that two of the camels should go first +to the nearest well for water, and that the caravan +should wait their return. During this interval, +Belzoni and his friends made a little excursion +along the coast; the plain which extended +from the mountains to the sea was covered in +many places with woods of sycamore trees, and +at the foot of these mountains they saw several +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">148</span>mines of sulphur, which they wished Mahomed +Ali could have viewed also. They made a +good repast out of some shell-fish, which abound +along the coast, and they were probably as +great a feast to our wearied and hungry friends, +Emily, as the train oil was to your little Greenlanders.</p> + +<p>On their return to the caravan they found +that the guide had met with an acquaintance of +his who lived by catching fish, not far from +where they were. His only habitation consisted +of a tent four feet high and five feet wide; and +his wife, her son and daughter, formed the +family.</p> + +<p>Money presented an attraction to the old +fisherman, and persuaded him to try what he +could do towards procuring them some fish, as +they were so hungry. Their mode of fishing is +somewhat strange; and the boat they use for +the purpose is one in which I own I should not +much like to see my little Bernard. They throw +in the water, part of the trunk of a tree, at one +end of which a small pole is stuck upright, to +serve as a mast, and on the top of it a piece of +wood is horizontally fastened. A woollen shawl +being thrown over it, forms a kind of sail; two +fishermen place themselves astride on the large +trunk, and by means of a cord fastened to the +middle of the sail, they take the wind more or +less as is required.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="148over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/148over.jpg" alt="Fishermen on their treetrunk boat"> +</figure> + +<p>When the fishermen were thus equipped, and +at some distance from the shore, Belzoni could +scarcely tell how they seized their prey, but he +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">149</span>fancied that they darted their long spears at the +fish, and procured them by this means. The +old man brought one to Belzoni: he could not +tell its name, but he had seen a very good representation +of it among the hieroglyphics in +the tomb of Psammuthis.</p> + +<p>The camels returned in the course of a day +or two, with a load of fresh water, and the +caravan now divided into two parties. The +Greek servant and some of the camels were +sent to a spring in the adjacent mountains, there +to wait the return of the rest, who set off in +the forenoon along the coast. On their road +they passed the abodes of several other fishermen: +but when they saw our travellers at a +distance, they left their tents and marched off +towards the mountains. All the signs that were +made to stop them were of no avail. They +were like the people of Mainarty, who left their +huts in a similar manner, and hid themselves in +that great hole under the ruins of an old castle, +and would not come out when Belzoni went to +visit them.</p> + +<p>When our friends arrived at the tents, they +found some excellent fish just roasted, which +the inhabitants had no doubt intended for their +own supper. They however partook of their +meal, and having left some money in payment +on the top of a water jar, continued their journey. +Towards evening they left the shore, and +began to feel the short allowance of water, as +they knew that, without great care, it would +soon be entirely gone. A few hours after, they +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">150</span>crossed a very extensive plain, and arrived +again at the sea. Not expecting to discover the +remains of Berenice that night, it was an agreeable +surprise to find themselves all at once on +one of those heaps of ruins which point out the +situation of ancient towns so often seen in +Egypt. They entered, and at once beheld the +regular situations of the houses, the principal +streets, and in the centre a small Egyptian temple, +nearly covered with sand, as well as the +insides of the houses; their wonder increased +on examining the materials with which the +houses were built: they could see nothing but +coral, roots, madrepores, and several petrifications +of various seaweeds.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—These were singular buildings, however, +mother! We have heard of the little huts +in Peru, which are made of bamboo canes; +and of the wigwams of North America, formed +of stakes, and leaves, and turf; and of the +dwellings of the little Laplanders, composed of +bark and reindeer skins; and we have seen the +cottages of poor people in England built of +mud; but we have never heard of coral and +seaweed houses before!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The situation of this town was delightful. +Our travellers concluded it to be the +Berenice laid down by D’Anville, as it nearly +agreed with the situation marked on his map. +They determined to examine it most minutely. +They measured the town, and took the plan of +the temple, which was built of soft calcareous +earth, in the Egyptian style. Their grand difficulty +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">151</span>was about the water; it was become so +scarce that they had reason to dread remaining +there the whole of the next day. The nearest +well was a day’s journey distant. Notwithstanding +their excessive thirst, they were determined +to endure it, rather than give up their +project; and being moonlight, they devoted the +hour of rest to an examination of the place.</p> + +<p>Though they had only taken some biscuit and +water for a long time, except the fish which they +found in the tents of the fishermen, they contented +themselves very well with respect to +food; but their thirst was continually increasing; +and their zemzabie, which some days before contained +only three quarts, was nearly empty. +However, that they might be perfectly sure of +having actually reached Berenice, they persuaded +the Scheik to go farther with them, just to take +a survey of the country, and to leave the rest of +the people where they were in the mean time. +Before they departed, little Mussa one of the +boys who had joined the caravan at Gournou, +to attend to the camels, was set to dig in the +temple; he had no spade, poor fellow! but as it +was only soft sand, a shell or caquille supplied +the place of one.</p> + +<p>Proceeding onwards, they saw nothing but +an extensive plain to the foot of the mountain +that formed the cape on the south; they had +telescopes, but could see no sort of elevation, or +any thing else that could lead them to imagine +there were any remains of habitations. They +therefore returned to the town, and found that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">152</span>the boy had excavated about four feet of sand, +near one corner of the temple, and to their surprise +discovered that it was Egyptian. They +had imagined that it was erected by the Greeks. +The walls were adorned with sculpture and hieroglyphics, +and they carried a small marble slab +away as a memento. The little Mussa had +worked very well, considered he had only a +shell in the place of a spade.</p> + +<p>The plain that surrounds this town is very +extensive, and partly covered with small plants +of sunt and suvaroes; which last is a small tree, +with leaves resembling those of the laurel; it +grows close to the salt water, and generally out +of the rocks. Belzoni carefully examined the +town, and counted the houses (of which there +were two thousand,) that he might not take a +wrong report, and be mistaken for another Calliaud. +This place being on the coast, was once +a port of commerce with India. Having spent +as much time there as they prudently could, they +recommenced their journey towards the north-west, +firmly intending at some future time to inspect +the whole of the ruins.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—To the north-west: then they are +returning to Esne, I suppose? I hope they will +fall in with some well, for they must be extremely +thirsty by this time.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—They left the spot on the evening +of the same day, and after travelling some hours +by moonlight, fortunately arrived at the well of +Aharatret, a mountainous place, where the water +was good to drink.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">153</span></p> + +<p>Their biscuits were nearly gone by this time, +they were, therefore, agreeably surprised to find +a few sheep around the well, as they hoped to +be able to purchase one. They approached, intending +to do so, when the guardian of the flock +beat a forced march into the mountain, and drove +the intended repast away from them. But they +were not inclined to be deprived of what they +could purchase; and they sent some of the +drivers to follow the flock, which they willingly +did, being as hungry as themselves. The fugitives +were pursued and stopped. They reached +the flock, and found that its guardians were two +shepherd girls. The tawny coloured nymphs +were surprised at the fountain by their pursuers, +and took refuge on the mountains; but, unlike +the fishermen on the coast of the Red Sea, or +the people of Mainarty, they were easily persuaded +to return, and allowed the hungry group +to take one of their lambs. The caravan arrived +at Sakiet Minor again in a few days, and +thence proceeded to the valley of Wady el +Gomal; after which it crossed a very wide +sandy plain, and reached the entrance of the +chain of mountains that leads to the Nile. Their +camels were by this time so much exhausted as +to be scarcely able to go on; they had already +lost three on the road. It is difficult for those +who have never seen a desert to form a correct +idea of one; it appears like an endless plain of +sand and stones, without roads or shelter, without +any sort of produce for food. The scattered +trees and shrubs of thorns, that only appear +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">154</span>when the rainy season leaves some moisture, +barely serve to feed wild animals and a few +birds. Every thing is left to nature. The +springs of water are generally at the distance of +four, six, or eight days’ journey. One of these +may perhaps happen to be dry, and then if the +same dreadful calamity happen at the next well, +which is so anxiously sought for by the wearied +travellers, the misery of their situation cannot +well be described.</p> + +<p>They have the camels with them, it is true, +and although their only dependence is placed on +these useful creatures, yet they themselves are +sometimes so thirsty as to be unable to proceed. +Their condition must be distressing, for it admits +of no resource. Many perish, the victims of +insatiable thirst. It is in such a state that the +value of a cup of cold water is really felt.</p> + +<p>In these cases there is no distinction of persons; +if the master has none, the servant will +not give it him; for very few are the instances +in which a man will voluntarily lose his life to +save that of another, particularly in a caravan +in a desert, where the people are strangers to +each other. What a situation for a man to be +placed in! riches will avail nothing; he may +perhaps be the owner of the caravan, and yet +die on the desert for want of a cup of cold +water! no one gives it to him; he offers all he +possesses; no one hears him; they are all dying, +though by walking a few miles farther they +might be saved; the camels are lying down and +will not attempt to rise; no one has strength to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">155</span>walk; only he who has so much as a glass of +that liquid, which he would not part with for all +the emeralds of Zubara, has any chance of living: +and if he is enabled to crawl a mile farther, +perhaps he dies too.</p> + +<p>It is indeed a dreadful situation to be placed +in, exposed to the burning sun, without water +and without shelter, in the midst of a burning +desert. I believe the sufferings of those who +have experienced what it is, are the greatest a +human being can sustain. The eyes grow inflamed; +the tongue and lips swell; a hollow +sound is heard in the ears; a faintness or languor +takes away the power to move; some wandering +tears escape from the eyes; the poor sufferer +drops on the earth and becomes insensible; +all these feelings arise from the want of a little +water.</p> + +<p>And now we will return to Belzoni. We left +him just entering the chain of mountains that +leads to the Nile.</p> + +<p>The caravan proceeded very much as before +until it arrived on the banks of that river, and +the freshness of its water made them sensible of +its superiority over that of almost any other.</p> + +<p>They went onboard their little boat the same +night, and set off for Esne.</p> + +<p>You know when they went up the Nile, almost +all the land around was under water, and +the poor people were standing about on the little +islands, holding out their hands and imploring +assistance. Now, although the water had only +retired fifteen days, yet all the lands that were +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">156</span>before overflowed were not only dried up but +actually planted; the muddy villages carried off +by the current were all rebuilt; the fences +opened; the Fellahs at work in the fields; the +aspect was quite changed, and all presented a +scene of industry and happiness.</p> + +<p>They arrived at Esne in a day or two, and +visited the Bey, who received them very politely, +inquired about the mines, and was anxious to +learn the result of their journey. They then +set off again, and reached our well known Gournou +after an absence of forty days.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII"> + CHAPTER VII. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Dr. Franklin’s kite.—Some sailors ascend Pompey’s Pillar by +means of a paper kite.—Removal of the obelisk from the +Island of Philoe.—It falls into the Nile.—Ingenious method +of raising it.—It is launched down the cataract.—Arrives in +safety in Rosetta.—Belzoni goes to Beban el Malook.—Completes +his drawings and models of the Tomb.—Bids final +adieu to Thebes.—Traverses the Western Desert in search +of the Temple of Jupiter Ammon.—Procures a donkey at +Benisoeuf.—Reaches the Lake Mœris.—Rose-trees in profusion.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p>“Mother!” exclaimed Bernard, running into +the breakfast room where his mother was seated, +and throwing his straw hat on the sofa, “Do +you know what I have been thinking about?”</p> + +<p>“Indeed, my dear,” said Mrs. A. “your employments +are so various, and your thoughts are +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">157</span>generally dependent upon them, I suppose, that +I feel at a loss to imagine.”</p> + +<p>“I have been thinking,” said he, “that when +I am older I shall get Owen or father to teach +me how to swim, and that I shall fly my kite +whilst I am in the water, as Dr. Franklin did +when he was a boy. How do you approve of +my plan?”</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—I own that I think some little danger +would be attached to it, just at present however. +Dr. Franklin was a native of Boston, +and was taught the practice of swimming when +very young, so that he was particularly expert +and skilful in this as in almost every other respect. +But what led you to think of him now?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Owen and I are just come from +the park, where we have been flying our new +kite; and Owen has been telling me how much +pleased Dr. Franklin was with his new method +of swimming. Do you remember it, mother? +He one day wished to amuse himself with his +kite and to enjoy at the same time the pleasure +of swimming, so he got into the water, and lying +on his back, held the end of the string in his +hands and went along in such a delightful manner. +I wish I had been Dr. Franklin! He engaged +a boy to carry his clothes round the pond, +to a place which he pointed out to him on the +other side, whilst he in the mean time crossed +the pond with his kite flying high in the air. +Was it not a clever idea?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—He managed to do two things at +once, certainly. But I do not admire Dr. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">158</span>Franklin for his new mode of swimming only. +He was clever whilst a boy, and when grown +up became a very useful character, and rendered +great services both to his own country and +the world at large: however, I would advise +you not to attempt to imitate him in the exploit +that has pleased you so much, until you have +acquired a little of his experience.</p> + +<p>I can, if you please, tell you of another +achievement performed by means of a kite.</p> + +<p>You have perhaps heard of Pompey’s pillar. +It is not far from Alexandria, the place at which +Belzoni landed when he went to Egypt, and it +is supposed that this column was erected to the +memory of the great Roman warrior. Pompey +was killed as he was going to that country, you +know, soon after he had stepped into the little +bark.</p> + +<p>The column called Pompey’s Pillar is one +hundred and ten feet high. It has suffered little +or no injury from time. It is of the Corinthian +order, which is at once simple and beautiful. +Pompey was killed <span class="allsmcap">B.C.</span> 48. The time of the +erection of the pillar is scarcely known, but it +was named after him in the fifteenth century, +when learning began to revive from a torpid +state in which it had long languished, and men +of science bestowed names on all the monuments.</p> + +<p>The pedestal has been somewhat damaged by +the instruments of travellers, who are anxious +to possess a relic of this antiquity; and one of +the volutes of the column was immaturely +brought down a few years ago by the ingenuity +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">159</span>of some English captains. So I have heard; +however, I cannot vouch for the truth of my +story farther than the authority of Mr. Irwin, +the traveller who relates it.</p> + +<p>A strange fancy entered the thoughts of one +of those seamen as they were coasting about in +the harbour of Alexandria, and the eccentricity +of the idea caused it to be immediately adopted, +for its apparent impossibility only made them +the more anxious to put it into execution.</p> + +<p>They ordered out the boat and with proper +implements pushed ashore, intending to drink a +bowl of punch on the top of Pompey’s Pillar. +They arrived at the spot, and many contrivances +were proposed to accomplish the desired project.</p> + +<p>But their labour was vain; and they began +to despair of success, when the genius who +struck out the frolic happily suggested the means +of performing it.</p> + +<p>A man was despatched to the city for a paper +kite. The inhabitants were by this time apprised +of what was going forward, and flocked in +crowds to be witnesses of the address and boldness +of the English. The governor of Alexandria +was told that some sailors were about to +pull down Pompey’s pillar; however, he politely +left them to themselves, saying that the English +were too great patriots to injure the remains of +Pompey. The kite was brought, and the wind +being in the right direction, it flew so directly +over the pillar that when it fell on the other side +the string lodged upon the capital.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="148under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/148under.jpg" alt="Flying a kite over the pillar"> +</figure> + +<p>The chief obstacle was now overcome. A +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">160</span>thick rope was tied to one end of the string, and +drawn over the column by the end to which the +kite was fixed. By this rope one of the sailors +ascended to the top (sailors are used to run up +the shrouds, you know, and this was somewhat +similar;) in less than an hour a kind of rope +ladder was constructed, by which the whole +company went up, amidst the shouts and claps +of the astonished multitude.</p> + +<p>To the eye below, the capital of the pillar +does not appear capable of holding more than +one man upon it; but our seamen found it could +contain no less than eight persons very conveniently.</p> + +<p>No accident happened during their ascent to +this giddy height for they were sailors, and used +to look down from the tall masts.</p> + +<p>The only injury sustained by the pillar, was +the loss of the volute I mentioned before, which +descended with a thundering sound, and was +brought to England by one of the captains. +They reported that one foot and an ankle of a +statue were still remaining upon the monument, +probably of Pompey himself.</p> + +<p>I cannot say that I am sure such a thing did +really and actually happen. I can only depend +on what I have heard from others. But the adventurers +themselves have left a memento of +the fact, by the initials of their names painted +in large black letters just beneath the capital.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—Well, it is a very amusing anecdote, +mother! Kites are very ingenious—as +ingenious as the <i>somebody</i> who thought of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">161</span>plan. Without kites, they could never have got +to the top of Pompey’s pillar. You know, mother, +that Belzoni was at Alexandria. Did he +see the pillar?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—I cannot tell, my dear; I do not +recollect that he mentions it: but he was at +Alexandria more than once, for he took the obelisk +thither which he discovered in the island of +Philoe.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Do, dear mother, tell us something +about that obelisk: I was quite interested to +know what became of it. Belzoni left it in the +island of Philoe, on his return from Ybsambul, +and gave the Aga four dollars to pay a guard for +it, till he could procure a boat to convey it down +the Nile.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—The obelisk was lying among several +blocks of stones; it was made of granite, and +was twenty-two feet long. Go on, if you please, +mother.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—I dare say you recollect that we +left Belzoni at Gournou. He did not remain +there very long, but went up the Nile to Assouan.</p> + +<p>The old town of Assouan stands on a hill +which overhangs the river, and is on the opposite +side of the Nile to the first Cataract, and +Philoe is in the Nile between them.</p> + +<p>Belzoni went to this island, to take a view of +the bank where he had to embark the obelisk. +In a few days he set the men to work, and procured +a boat to put it in. The greatest difficulty +seemed to be to persuade the captain to have +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">162</span>the boat launched down the Cataract, which it +necessarily must be, with the obelisk on board. +However, the promise of a handsome present +procured an assurance that he would accomplish +the undertaking. He had some little trouble to +procure a few sticks or small poles from Assouan, +as there is no wood in these places, except what +they procure from Cairo. He had also some +difficulty in removing the obelisk from its situation; +but once put on its way, it soon came to +the water side.</p> + +<p>Belzoni gave orders for a sort of temporary +pier to be made of large blocks of stone. When +finished, no doubt arose of its being strong +enough for the weight it had to support. But, +alas! when the obelisk came gradually on from +the sloping bank, and the heavy mass rested on +it, the pier, with the obelisk and some of the +men, took a slow movement, and, to Belzoni’s +dismay, descended majestically into the river.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="162over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/162over.jpg" alt="The obelisk descends into the river"> +</figure> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Now it is there, it is done for! But +how much mortified poor Belzoni must have +been! Why did he not make himself sure that +the pier was quite secure?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—He had no reason to doubt but +what it was. It is true he was not present during +its erection, because he was gone to examine +a passage in the Cataract, down which the boat +would have to be launched; and now it was too +late. When he fixed his eyes upon the spot +where the pier set off into the Nile, he observed +that the stones which were to serve as a foundation +on a sloping back, had been only laid on +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">163</span>the surface of it, so that it was almost impossible +for the obelisk to do otherwise than press it +down into the river.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Well, it was a very unfortunate +thing; and all these reflections are now of no +use! The obelisk from Philoe is there, and +there it must stay!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Belzoni was not quite so full of +despair as you are, Owen. He was certainly +extremely mortified at this unfortunate occurrence, +and, being only three yards off when it +happened, he stood for some minutes in confusion +and astonishment. At length, the loss of +such a piece of antiquity, and the blame that +would be attached to him by other antiquaries, +occurred to his recollection, and he resolved to +try what could be done. He generally succeeded +in whatever he undertook; and often proved +the truth of our motto, “<i>Labour conquers all!</i>”</p> + +<p>The obelisk was still peeping a little above +the water. The labourers were of various humours: +some were sorry, not for the obelisk, +which was no loss to them, but for the loss of +what they might have gained in future operations, +by passing it down the Cataract: others +were laughing, probably at the evident disappointment +expressed in the countenance of our +friend. Some went one way, and some another; +and he remained alone, absorbed in thought, +contemplating the little part that projected out +of the water, and meditating upon the possibility +of once more placing it upon the dry land.</p> + +<p>He reflected, indeed, that he was as badly off +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">164</span>as he had been with Young Memnon, in being +destitute of any instruments; and that the palm-leaf +ropes which he had with him were broken, +and old, and of little use. However, he soon made +up his mind to have the obelisk taken up at all +events; and accordingly ordered the men to +come the next morning, and sent to Assouan to +procure some new ropes for the purpose.</p> + +<p>The labourers were excellent watermen, and +could bear the water the whole day without difficulty; +so Belzoni had the advantage in this respect. +The following morning the work commenced. +Several men entered the river, and +made a great heap of stones on the side of the +obelisk opposite to the shore, so as to form a bed +for the levers to rest upon.</p> + +<p>He then placed the levers under the obelisk, +so that by their pressure it was forced to turn +round upon its axis, or, to be more particular, +one end of the long poles, called the levers, +passed under the obelisk, and a short distance +from that end, they rested upon the rock of +stones which thus formed a fulcrum for the +levers to turn upon; the men seated themselves +on the other extremity, and their weight caused +the obelisk to turn gently round and round, until +it reached the dry ground.</p> + +<p>Two ropes were also passed under it, and the +men on shore pulled the two ends of these ropes +with all their might. At the side where the +levers were, some good divers were stationed, +who were ready to put large stones under the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">165</span>obelisk as it rose, that it might not return to its +former situation.</p> + +<p>You can fancy how busy they all looked. The +men at the ropes were pulling with all their +strength; those on the rocks were rising and +sitting, to make the levers act; and the divers +were placing stone after stone, whilst the obelisk +was gradually rising and moving round at each +turn by its own weight. So they go on, until, +to Belzoni’s great joy, he beholds it once more +on <i>terra firma</i>. Where it was in the course of +two days; but another difficulty awaits it before +it reaches Alexandria, and that is descending +the Cataract.</p> + +<p>It was yet to be embarked, and this time the +operation was performed by means of a bridge +of palm-trees, thrown from across the boat to +the land under the obelisk, which was then +turned on the bridge, and placed on board; when +in the centre of the boat the trees were moved +from under it; and no sooner was this done than +the party set off with the obelisk, to have it +ready to be launched down the Cataract the +next morning.</p> + +<p>It had to descend the greatest fall of water +in the Cataract. When the inundation is half +high in the Nile, it is a column of water about +three hundred yards in length, which falls among +rocks and stones projecting in various directions. +The boat was brought to the margin of the cascade; +a strong rope, or rather a small cable, was +fastened to a large tree, the end of which was +passed through the beams of the boat, so as to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">166</span>be slackened or stopped at pleasure. In the +boat there were only five men; and on the +rocks on each side of the cascade a number of +others in various places, with ropes attached to +the boat, so as to put it either to one side or other, +as it required, to prevent its running against the +stones; for you know if it had been touched +ever so slightly, with such a weight on board, +and in such a rapid stream, the boat would probably +have been dashed to pieces.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="162under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/162under.jpg" alt="The obelisk in the boat navigating the cataract"> +</figure> + +<p>The rope Belzoni had got from Assouan was +only sufficient to check its course, and when the +boat was moving so rapidly, any attempt to <i>stop</i> +its progress would have made the water run in +and sink it in a moment. Under these circumstances, +all depended upon the dexterity of the +men who were posted in various parts to pull or +slacken as necessity required. Belzoni did not +fail to use all the persuasion possible, and the +wild people, as he calls them, were upon this occasion +as careful as so many pilots.</p> + +<p>The Reis, or owner of the boat, was in great +distress, thinking it would certainly be lost. He +had engaged his vessel merely because it happened +that his trade failed; but when he saw +the danger it was in, he cried like a child, and +begged Belzoni would relinquish his project and +return his boat to him in safety.</p> + +<p>Tears were certainly useless and not very +manly, but we must remember that his livelihood, +poor fellow, depended on his boat. When +he saw it on the point of being launched, he +threw himself with his face to the ground, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">167</span>did not rise till it was out of danger. When all +was ready, Belzoni gave the signal to slacken +the cable.</p> + +<p>The boat moved forwards with great rapidity. +The men on land slackened the rope, and it continued +its course till it reached the end of the +Cataract.</p> + +<p>The poor Reis was delighted; he did not lie +on the ground any longer, but went full of joy +to congratulate himself and Belzoni. The workmen +altogether seemed pleased at the good success +of the attempt, even independently of the +interest they might derive from it. This was +gratifying to our antiquary, for it is not very +often that such feelings enter the bosoms of the +Arabs.</p> + +<p>Having only two or three places of little danger +to pass, they arrived safely at Assouan on +the same day. Belzoni immediately prepared +to depart from thence to Thebes; he quitted the +boat, travelled by land, and took up his old residence +at the tombs in Beban el Malook.</p> + +<p>The obelisk proceeded to Luxor, and from +thence to Rosetta, where it remained some time.</p> + +<p>Belzoni had written to Mrs. Belzoni, to tell +her that he could not go into Syria, and she had +in consequence returned from Jerusalem, and +now waited to welcome his arrival in the valley.</p> + +<p>I once told you, as you perhaps recollect, that +the entrance into the newly-discovered tomb +was situated under a small torrent of water, +which, when it rains, runs into it. This is not +often the case in Egypt, but it so happened that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">168</span>whilst Belzoni was absent up the Nile it did rain, +and consequently the water ran into the tomb, +carrying with it a great deal of mud, and damaging +some of the figures. However, this disaster +could not be remedied. Belzoni completed +his models and drawings, and with some difficulty +removed the great sarcophagus and put it into a +strong case. The place it had to pass to reach +the Nile was rather uneven for more than two +miles, but it was conveyed on rollers, and put +safely on board. Under this sarcophagus there +was a staircase communicating with a subterraneous +passage leading downwards, three hundred +feet in length; at the end of which a quantity +of rubbish had fallen in and choked up the passage. +Belzoni conjectured that this formed +another entrance to the tomb, though it must +have been closed after the sarcophagus was +placed there, as there was a wall built just under +the sarcophagus, and large blocks of stone were +placed on a level with the floor which completely +cut off all communication between the chamber +and the subterraneous passage.</p> + +<p>Our traveller was now about to bid a final +adieu to Thebes. Before he embarked he retraced +the scenes which had yielded him so +much delight; he paid a melancholy visit to the +magnificent remains of ancient grandeur; gazed +for the last time upon the temples and columns +which have triumphed over the corroding influence +of the universal ravager; and beheld the +valley, the place in which his labours had been +crowned with so much success, with painful +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">169</span>feelings and mingled emotions of pleasure and +regret. He left the spot so long known, and so +long endeared to him, in January 1819, and arrived +in Cairo the following month. At this +place they stopped only a few days, and continued +their voyage to Rosetta, where, taking the +obelisk with them, they re-embarked on board +a djerm, and arrived in the course of a short +time at Alexandria, whence they intended to +take passage for Europe.</p> + +<p>They did not quit Alexandria immediately, +and if you please we may yet accompany our +friend in another journey that he took to visit a +temple in the western Desert: we have not yet +been on that side of the Nile.</p> + +<p>The temple of Jupiter Ammon had been an +object of search for a long time, and by more +than one traveller, but the true spot where it +existed had not yet been fixed upon, and to discover +this, as well as to visit some pyramids, and +search for the famous Labyrinth, presented grand +attractions to Belzoni.</p> + +<p>Jupiter Ammon was one of the gods in the +Egyptian Mythology. He was worshipped under +the figure of a ram, and this temple was +dedicated to him.</p> + +<p>Having left Mrs. Belzoni in Rosetta, our traveller +took a small boat and proceeded to Benisoeuf, +where he arrived in nine days. You will +find this place on the map a long way south of +Cairo.</p> + +<p>Belzoni was accompanied by a servant and a +Moorish Hajji, which is a title given to those +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">170</span>Mohamedans who have made the pilgrimage to +Mecca. This one was just returned from Mecca +and begged to be allowed to join him. At +Benisoeuf they procured donkeys to take them +as far as the Lake Mœris. They set off on the +same day, and directed their course through a +large plain of cultivated land, of corn and other +products of the country. This plain was all +under water at the time of the inundation, excepting +the scattered villages which appeared +like little islands as I have before described. A +few miles from the Nile the mountains on the +west are but low. They open and form a valley +into a province called the Paioum; and it was +at this entrance our party arrived on the first +night of their journey.</p> + +<p>They took their station under some date trees +near a canal that passes through the valley about +two miles from the first pyramid. Here, after +a little repast Belzoni went to sleep on his usual +bed, a mattress thin enough to serve as a saddle +when folded up, but forming, when laid on the +soft ground, as comfortable a bed as he could +desire. The servant, the Hajji, and the donkey +drivers kept watch in their turn, and this plan +was pursued during the whole of the journey.</p> + +<p>The next morning Belzoni again set off, and +soon arrived at the pyramid. He found it was +composed of burnt bricks, and about sixty feet +in height, affording a fine prospect from the top. +Our party then continued along the hills till they +were opposite another pyramid of about the +same size, surrounded by smaller tombs, and the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">171</span>remains of a magnificent Egyptian temple. +The whole country was very fertile, and interspersed +with plantations of fruit trees and roses.</p> + +<p>This place is celebrated for the making of +rose-water, which is sold in Cairo, and all over +the country, for the use of the great people, who +continually keep their apartments sprinkled with +it, and present it also to any stranger who visits +them.</p> + +<p>You remember that when we were talking of +the customs of the Egyptians, I told you that a +slave generally carries a silver plate in which +essences are burning to perfume the beard and +sprinkle the visiters with them. For this purpose +they use rose-water procured from the +roses that grow in the valley around the Faioum.</p> + +<p>Next morning a soldier joined the party as +guide, and they advanced towards the lake +Mœris, but arrived only at Senures that night, a +village ten miles from it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—How very convenient maps are, +mother; I can trace their route so well. Here +is Benisoeuf on the Nile, where they hired the +donkeys; and here is the chain of mountains, +and a space left for the entrance between them +into the Faioum: they have only just to cross +this province to reach Birket Keroum, as the +lake is called on the map; the pyramids themselves +are marked, and I believe I know the very +spot where the rose-trees grow, and the roses +blow, but not to</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“<i>Waste</i> their sweetness on the desert air.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">172</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII"> + CHAPTER VIII. + </h2> +</div> + +<blockquote> +<p>Crosses Lake Mœris and visits the temple of Haron among the +rocks near the lake.—Disturbs a hyena.—Account of the famous +Labyrinth.—Visit to the Elloah.—An interview with +Khalil Bey.—Account of the Bedouins.—Belzoni crosses the +Desert attended by Scheik Grumar.—Brought to a halt by a +sentinel with a musket.—Arrival at Zaboo.—Interview with +the Scheik and Kadee of El Cassar.—Belzoni goes to their +village.—Discovers the seat of the temple.—Meets with an +unfortunate accident on his return to Zaboo.—Reaches Benisoeuf.—Arrives +at Cairo.—Embarks for Europe.—Returns to +England.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<p>Leaving Senures the following morning, our +travellers proceeded on their journey, and after +passing through several groves of palm-trees, the +view opened all at once on a wild country gradually +sloping to the edge of the lake. The +water extended some way on each side, and the +mountains opposite had an awful and sterile appearance. +At noon they reached the lake, but +could observe no trace of any living being. +The guide conducted them along the shore, till +they arrived at a fisherman’s hut situated near +the place where the canal discharges itself into +the lake. The hut was inhabited by a few poor +fishermen and a soldier, who formerly received +the duties on the fish they caught; but now, the +fishermen have only a share of the fish they +catch, and the remainder is sold at Medinet, of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">173</span>which the Pasha receives the profit. The guide +sent one of the fishermen for a boat, the only +one to be had, but the shabbiest thing imaginable. +It was composed of rough pieces of wood scarcely +joined, and fastened by four other pieces, +wrapped together by four more across, which +formed the deck; no tar, no pitch, either inside +or out, and the only preventive against the water +coming in was a kind of weed moistened, which +had settled in the joints of the wood. However, +there was no alternative; Belzoni wished to +cross the lake, and he was obliged to submit to +what he could not help. Having made an agreement +with the owner of the boat, who might +have passed for old <i>Charon</i> the ferryman of the +Styx in ancient mythology, they put on board +some provisions, and advanced towards the +west, where the famous Labyrinth is supposed +to have been situated. The water of the lake +was good enough to drink, though a little saltish; +but it was only this year that it could be drunk +at all, owing to the extraordinary overflow of +the Nile, which surmounted all the high lands, +and came in such torrents into the lake that it +raised the water twelve feet higher than it ever +had been in the memory of the oldest fisherman. +As evening came on, the plantations and groves +disappeared, the lake and the mountains alone +remained in sight, and when they reached the +shore, the owner of the boat, who accompanied +them as pilot, lighted a fire, whilst the others +went out to fish with a net, and soon returned +with a supper of fish.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">174</span></p> + +<p>The land where they now were had formerly +been cultivated, as there appeared many stumps +of palm and other trees, and around them wild +vines twined their luxuriant tendrils in profusion. +The scene here was beautiful; the silence of the +night; the beams of the radiant moon shining +on the calm surface of the crystal lake; the +group of fishermen; the little fire; altogether +formed a picture which Belzoni had never before +in reality witnessed, though I know not +how often his lively imagination had painted +such a scene.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="172over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/172over.jpg" alt="Belzoni seated by the campfire in the moonlight, attended by fishermen"> +</figure> + +<p>However, morning came: they entered their +shattered vessel, which nevertheless conveyed +them safely till they arrived near the end of the +lake, where they landed, and Belzoni, taking two +of the boatmen, set off for the temple of Haron, +about three miles distant, standing in the midst +of the ruins of a town, and surrounded by fragments +of columns and other temples. Part of +the town was covered with sand; on one side +of it there was something like a gateway, and a +little way off a Greek chapel, elevated on a +platform with cellars under it. After having +taken a proper view of the temple and the town, +Belzoni went to see this small Greek chapel, accompanied +by the two boatmen; and not apprehending +any danger, left his gun and pistols in +the temple; but he now nearly suffered for his +thoughtlessness; for just as he was mounting +the little steps that led to the platform of the +chapel, a large and furious hyena rushed from +the apartments beneath; stopped three or four +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">175</span>yards from him, howled dreadfully, and then +turned round as if determined to attack him.</p> + +<p>The fierce animal appeared on second thoughts +to relinquish its intent, for, after having shown +him its teeth, it gave a hideous roar, and galloped +away as fast as it could.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="172under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/172under.jpg" alt="Belzoni encounters a hyena"> +</figure> + +<p>Belzoni says that at the moment he regretted +having left his gun and pistols in the temple, but +was happy to see it gone; he attributed its flight +to the noise made by the two boatmen who were +near at the time. Having surveyed the temple, +and escaped other dangers, he returned with his +attendants to the boat. A high wind rose which +swelled the lake very much, drifted the sand +into the air, and drove their boat on shore at the +spot they had left in the morning. They there +collected plenty of wood, made a fire, and passed +the night under shelter of a mat hung over two +sticks planted in the ground.</p> + +<p>They reimbarked in the morning and coasted +the shores of the lake the whole day, but perceived +nothing worthy of remark. There are +a few spots near the water’s edge where great +quantities of weeds grow from under the water, +and large quantities of game are always found +among these plants. The pelican is very common, +and wild ducks. They saw fragments of +pillars and ruins nearly under water. In the +evening they returned to the same part of the +shore and made an excellent supper of fresh fish +and a piece of a pelican shot by a soldier. The +flesh of this bird is not unlike mutton in appearance, +and is tender and agreeable to the taste. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">176</span>but the fat is not pleasant, being rancid and +yellow.</p> + +<p>Belzoni had heard that the situation of the +labyrinth was on the west side of the lake Mœris, +and he employed the few following days in +making diligent researches in that part in hopes +of finding some remains of it: but in vain, for +not the smallest appearance of an edifice was to +be seen.</p> + +<p>The labyrinth was a celebrated building, apparently +designed as a pantheon of all the Egyptian +gods that were worshipped in the provinces. +This astonishing edifice contained no less than +three thousand chambers, fifteen hundred of +which were subterraneous, and set apart either +for the sepulchres of the kings, or for the abodes +of the sacred crocodiles. The passages were +so numerous and intricate, the doors and entrances +so many, the galleries and lobbies so +extensive and almost innumerable, that it well +deserved the designation of <i>labyrinth</i>, which +word implies a place formed with inextricable +windings.</p> + +<p>Belzoni failed in his endeavours to discover +this wonderful structure; but as it was not of +great height, the lower apartments being under +ground, he concluded that it was probably buried +by the earth which is yearly brought there by +the water of the Nile. He had no doubt but it +was somewhere there, from the number of stones, +columns, and other relics of antiquity that were +scattered about, some on the road, some in the +houses of the Arabs, and others used in the erection +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">177</span>of huts: all implying that some magnificent +and splendid building had fallen to ruins. Having +given up the attempt as fruitless, our enterprising +traveller prepared for his journey into the +Elloah on the west: accordingly he went to see +Hussuff Bey, and to request he would procure +a Bedouin guide to conduct him through the +desert; he said that the Bedouins were all encamped +in that part of the province which was +subject to Khalil Bey; our old friend who formerly +lived at Esne, and had the government of +the Upper Provinces between that place and +Assouan, but who had left Esne and now resided +at Benisoeuf.</p> + +<p>Belzoni learned that the Bedouins were encamped +about ten miles distant; he set off immediately, +hoping to gain some information from +them respecting the Elloah on the west: but +was disappointed, for none of them knew any +thing about it; however, they told him that one +of their Scheiks, who lived in a camp a little +way off, had a daughter married to one of the +Scheiks of the Elloah. Belzoni fancied that +this said Scheik would accompany him thither. +He remained all night at the camp, and set off in +the morning for the Nile again. He passed +through bowers of roses, with which, as I have +said before, they make the rose-water; the cotton +plant was quite abundant, and figs were so +plentiful that the people dried them in the sun +and sent them to Cairo. It was night when +they arrived on the banks of the Nile.</p> + +<p>Belzoni unfolded his saddle and slept on the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">178</span>ground again, and as soundly as you sleep upon +a pillow of down; he was become so accustomed +to inconvenient things as not to regard them. +He proceeded on his journey the next morning, +and went to see Khalil Bey, who was now commander +of Benisoeuf. He was, as he had been +before, very polite, and glad to render his friend +any service in his power. Belzoni informed +him that he wished to penetrate into the western +desert; he directly complied with his request, +and sent for the Scheik or the chief of the +Bedouins. But the Scheik was not so punctual +as Khalil, and did not arrive for two or three +days; indeed, when he did come, he protested +that he was unable to show him the road to the +place he wished to visit. The Bey insisted that +he should find some one in his camp who knew +the road, which he of course promised to do, +and it was agreed that Belzoni should meet +Scheik Grumar at a village at the foot of the +desert, whence he was to conduct him to the +Elloah.</p> + +<p>The name of that village is Sedmin el Djabel, +there the Bedouins were encamped, and +among them Scheik Grumar, a tall stout man, +six feet high, with a stern countenance, which +bespoke a resolute mind and a sort of authority +over those whom he considered beneath him.</p> + +<p>The Bedouins are a tribe of Arabs who live +a wandering life without any settled habitation, +but completely different from that of the Arabs +of Egypt in general. They are divided into a +great number of tribes, and distinguished by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">179</span>the names of their chiefs. Each tribe forms a +sort of village, and each family has a tent or +portable hut of its own. Their tents consist of +four sticks set in the ground, about a yard in +height, to which is fastened one of their shawls +as a cover with another behind, so as to form +a kind of shelter from the sun, wind, or dew. +They generally pitch their camps in a fertile +spot, but always at the foot of the mountains +near the deserts; so that in case of surprise +they may soon be in their native country.</p> + +<p>The men commonly wear a dark brown baracan, +which covers them from head to foot. +The women are likewise covered with a thick +woollen garment, folded around them in an elegant +manner.</p> + +<p>A baracan is a sort of large woollen shawl +which constitutes the chief manufacture among +the Arabs. The work is done by the women, +who make no use of the shuttle, but conduct +every thread with their fingers, and then with a +machine they have in their hands, not unlike a +wooden comb, press down each thread as they +lay it across.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—The people of Mainarty use no +shuttle, and I dare say they never heard of one, +or they would not go without such a useful +thing.</p> + +<p>What other employments have the Bedouins, +mother?</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The young boys and girls attend +the flocks: the husband is engaged in tilling the +ground, and the wife grinding at the mill, working +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">180</span>at the loom, or dressing provisions. Their +tents are not very sumptuous within; they are +generally raised from the sand, which without +any preparation serves for the floor of the +apartment; so that when any one rises from +this soft floor, with his large heavy flowing baracan, +he may raise a cloud of dust enough to +eclipse the whole family.</p> + +<p>When the Bedouins wish to converse they +do not sit at their ease, as we do, upon sofas or +chairs, without any ceremony, but place themselves +in a formal circle on the ground: the +man who speaks first makes a smooth place +with his hand on the sand, and continues the +conversation with his fingers, making spots, and +strokes, and points, as required. When they +meet each other, they exclaim, “<i>Salem Aleike</i>,” +“Peace be with you,” clapping at the same +time the right hand on the heart.</p> + +<p>Now we will return to Belzoni. He was +just arrived at the camp of the Bedouins; and +the proud Scheik Grumar was going to attend +him through the desert.</p> + +<p>They exchanged their donkeys for camels, +and advanced towards the west, passed through +several rocky valleys, and slept the first night +under a sand bank: the second night the foliage +of some palm-trees afforded them shelter; and +in the morning, continuing their course, they +came to a wide open plain of sand and stones, +with several heaps piled above the rest. These +were tumuli, but nothing of the temple of Jupiter +Ammon was to be seen. They went on +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">181</span>until at noon they saw a high hill at a distance, +and soon after the guide pointed out the rocks +of the Elloah. In the afternoon to their great +joy they saw two crows.</p> + +<p>We can see plenty of crows every day in this +country, but had we been in Belzoni’s place we +might have been equally rejoiced, for the appearance +of these birds was a sure sign that +water was not far off, a great treat to the traveller +in a hot sandy desert.</p> + +<p>The Elloah, which I have mentioned several +times, is a valley surrounded by high rocks, +which form a spacious plain of twelve miles +long, almost covered with sand; some small hills, +overgrown with rushes and other plants, are +scattered here and there, and the temple of +which Belzoni was in search was supposed to +have been in or near this spot. Our travellers +advanced towards a forest of date trees, situated +near a village named Zaboo, and all of them +were exceedingly thirsty. Before the camels +arrived they scented the water at some distance, +and set off at full gallop, without stopping till +they reached a rivulet, where, having alighted +for a short time to allow the camels to drink, +Belzoni observed a certain uneasiness in the +manner of Scheik Grumar, for which he did +not know how to account.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Had he been an Arab of Gournou, I +should have thought that some bad design had +entered his head: but he was an honest Bedouin, +you know. I want to hear what reason he had +for behaving so. Go on, if you please, mother.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">182</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Belzoni went farther down the rivulet +to drink too, and after having watered the +camels, they were about to proceed slowly towards +the village; but no sooner were they +mounted than they heard some one calling to +them, and at the same moment a man rushed +out of the bushes with a gun, and put himself +into an attitude as if to fire upon them.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="182over"> + <img class="w100" src="images/182over.jpg" alt="A man with a gun rushed out of the bushes"> +</figure> + +<p>His appearance was not very terrifying, nor +did his dress bespeak him to be a person of much +consequence. He was not more than four feet +high, of a chocolate colour (as the Bedouins +generally are,) and covered with a black woollen +cloth. The Scheik immediately dismounted, +speaking to him in the Arabic dialect. The +man recognised him, and Belzoni was pleased +to observe they appeared friendly towards each +other. The man was anxious to learn of whom +the party consisted: the guide told him that +they were people in search of old stones: to +which he replied that no one ever came there to +seek for old stones, and he did not know what +the Scheiks of Zaboo, the village to which they +were going, would think of it; he said also that +he had intended to shoot Belzoni while he was +kneeling to drink at the spring. It was well +that Scheik Grumar was with him, for if that +mysterious little man had not recognised him, he +might have carried his design into execution.</p> + +<p>They continued to advance towards Zaboo, +and the man began to walk before them; but +when they had nearly reached the village, he +ran off as fast as he could into a wood of palm-trees.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">183</span> +Our travellers now entered a valley, +which formed a most pleasing contrast to the +barren scenes of the desert, for it was full of +date and palm-trees, some covered with blossom, +and others loaded with fruit; apricots scented +the air with their mellow fragrance; figs, almonds, +and grapes grew in profusion; the ground +was covered with verdure, and here and there +a spot of cultivated land was seen waving with +rice. On their approaching a wide place the +guide halted and desired them to wait till his +return; he walked on, and Belzoni perceived +that he went into a kind of habitation at some +distance.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—I am sure if I had been Belzoni I +would never have waited there at the pleasure +of Scheik Grumar.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—The poor Scheik seems no favourite +of yours, perhaps you will alter your mind presently.</p> + +<p>Half an hour passed and he did not return: +Belzoni inquired of the drivers where the guide +was gone; they replied they did not know. +Another hour passed, no Scheik appeared; Belzoni +was tired of waiting, and set off with his gun +towards the place which he had seen the guide +enter, but before he reached the spot he heard +the voices of men, women, and children; and +when he came nearer he saw a wall enclosing a +great many houses, and just within the gates +there was a yard, in which were assembled all +the chiefs of the villages, and many others, sitting +on the ground, debating whether or not the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">184</span>stranger should be admitted, and the guide very +busy in persuading them that they were but +harmless people, and only come there to look +after old stones.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—My opinion is changed, mother, I did +not much like the conduct of the Scheik at first, +but it seems he wished to make friends with the +inhabitants of Zaboo, and that he was a brave +fellow after all. I will not form a judgment so +soon another time.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—Endeavour to adhere to your resolution, +my dear boy: for it is not wise to form +an unfavourable opinion upon too slight a +foundation.</p> + +<p>On the arrival of Belzoni, there whole attention +was turned towards him, and a perfect silence +ensued. He walked straight forward, +when they all rose without speaking a word, and +gazed upon him in wonder and astonishment. He +inquired who was their Scheik, when his guide +pointed out three or four old men, telling him +they were the Scheiks of the place. Belzoni +shook hands with them; some of the people received +him with good humour, and others went +away murmuring. They inquired what he +wanted. He told them he was a stranger, and +merely came to visit the place, as he expected to +find some stones belonging to his ancestors, and +hoped they should be friends. At the same time +he sent his guide to fetch the camels, and on +their arrival ordered coffee to be made. A fine +carpet was spread upon the ground, and they +became sociable by degrees: in a short time the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">185</span>rest of the village had assembled; cows, camels, +sheep, donkeys, men, women, and children, all +gazing upon him in amazement.</p> + +<p>They were acquainted with Turks and other +tribes of Arabs, but had never seen a Christian, +or Frank, as they are called here. They told +Belzoni that he would see nothing there, but +must go somewhere else; it seemed that they +did not like the thought of his searching for +stones. However they gave him a large bowl +of rice for his supper, and he lighted a wax +candle, which surprised them very much, as +they had never seen a candle before; but they +used him rather shabbily, for without saying a +single word they all rose up and walked off with +the candle, leaving him in the dark, with his carpet +and saddle to sleep on. This circumstance +did not disturb his repose, and the next morning, +after some little difficulty, and many assurances +that stones and not treasures were the +objects of his search, Belzoni set off through a +thick wood of palm-trees, and traversed many +sandy plains, barren deserts, ruined edifices, and +old towns; but no temple of Jupiter Ammon +was to be seen, and he returned half in despair +to Zaboo.</p> + +<p>By this time the inhabitants of the village of +El Cassar, which is only separated from Zaboo +by a high rock, were informed that a stranger +had arrived there in search of treasure. They +were all in an uproar immediately, and protested +that he should never enter their village.</p> + +<p>A man who lived half way between the two +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">186</span>villages, and occasionally reported what was +passing from one to the other, came to Belzoni +and said there was a very large temple in the +other village, which excited his curiosity; so he +got the man to take a message from him to the +Scheik and Kadee, and tell them that he came +to the Elloah to visit them; that he was not a +soldier, and that they would gratify him by appointing +a place where they might meet him the +next morning. He then returned to the village, +and the man to his habitation on the side of the +rock.</p> + +<p>The next morning our friend was informed +that these two great people were coming towards +Zaboo. He of course thought it favourable intelligence, +and hastened to meet them. The +Scheik of the Elloah came first; he was a good-natured +looking man, on horseback, dressed in +red striped linen cloth, with pistols and gun: +the Kadee (Kadee signifies judge or justice of +peace) was a rough looking fellow, clothed in +green cloth and turban, and accoutred like his +companion. After those two mighty personages +came about twenty horsemen, and as many foot, +all well armed. Having reached the village +they dismounted, some mats were brought and +the chiefs seated themselves whilst the attendants +stood around. Belzoni presented the usual +salute, <i>Salem Aleike</i>, and was requested to sit +down among them. They became very anxious +to know what had brought him there, making +many inquiries, and it was a long time before +they could be assured that to search for antiquities +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">187</span>was his only motive.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="182under"> + <img class="w100" src="images/182under.jpg" alt="Belzoni offers salutation to the Scheik and Kadee"> +</figure> + +<p>At last, however, +Belzoni gained his end, and obtained permission +to enter their village. Having made a repast of +coffee, the chiefs set off, and when they were +gone our antiquary prepared to follow them. +He commenced his journey before sunset, passed +over the sandy banks on the west of the village, +crossed the plain, ascended the rocks which separate +the two villages, and reached El Cassar on +the evening of the next day. He was received +by the Scheik, who was become quite friendly +towards him, with somewhat like English hospitality; +he begged him to sleep at his house, +and sent him a large bowl of rice for his supper. +Accordingly Belzoni accepted his invitation, +though I do not know that he reposed more +soundly upon the Scheik’s mat than he had often +done under a sand bank, or upon a sugar-cane +bed.</p> + +<p>The house of the Scheik was similar to the +others, being made of mud; a few beams of +palm-tree laid across formed the roof, on the +top of which was thrown a great quantity of +straw with old mats over. They had much conversation +together, and the Scheik told Belzoni +in confidence, that it was the father of the +Kadee who had so strongly objected to his visiting +the ruins in their village.</p> + +<p>On the following morning, a long consultation +took place whether he should or should not be +allowed to examine them; at length it was settled +for the old man himself to accompany him, +and they set off together. When they arrived +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">188</span>at the spot, Belzoni was much gratified by observing +many ruins and fragments, which showed +that there had evidently been some magnificent +edifice, and though little remained, he returned +highly delighted, in the assurance that he had +discovered the seat of the celebrated temple of +Jupiter Ammon.</p> + +<p>Before he returned to Zaboo, he expressed +his gratitude to the old man who had conducted +him to the ruins; made several presents of coral, +soap, and coffee to the Kadee and the good-natured +Scheik, and parted great friends with all +the people at the village of El Cassar.</p> + +<p>An unfortunate accident happened to him as +he was ascending the rock he had to pass on +his way to Zaboo. His camel slipped its foot +on one side and rolled down the rock the height +of about twenty feet, taking his rider of course +with him. This was a sad event for these +rocks were not so soft as the sandy spot in +Wady el Gomal, where his camel threw him +before.</p> + +<p>Belzoni was very much bruised, and conveyed +on a donkey to Zaboo, and there carried +to the house of a Scheik, where he was accommodated +in a narrow passage which led from +the street door to a yard behind the house, his +saddle as usual forming his only bed. This +was a miserable place for any one in his condition, +for the men, women, children, buffaloes, +cows, donkeys, goats, and dogs, passed backwards +and forwards continually, totally regardless +of him.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">189</span></p> + +<p>In the course of a few days, though his side +was still painful, they proceeded once more, +and by short stages arrived in about a week in +the valley of the Nile at the Bahr Yousef, +which if you remember they had crossed before: +on the evening of the same day they +reached Sedmin.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—Ah, Sedmin el Djabel, at the foot of +the range of low mountains which forms the +skirt of the desert, and where he had engaged +his guide Scheik Grumar; then he was pretty +near Benisoeuf, mother, and when he gets there +I expect his old friend Khalil Bey will take +care of him, and be very glad to see him too.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—They arrived at Benisoeuf the next +day. Belzoni did not remain long at that place, +but embarked for Cairo, and thence proceeded +to Rosetta. Mrs. Belzoni was there, and she +could take better care of him than any one else.</p> + +<p>At length, having settled all his affairs in +Egypt, in 1819 our enterprising traveller embarked +for Europe. After an absence of +twenty years, he returned to his native country, +and into the bosom of his family; from +whence he departed for England; and I think +we owe him many thanks for the amusement +and instruction his “Researches” have afforded us.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bernard.</span>—So he actually reached England +at last! And I learn from your account, mother, +that perseverance will enable us to do +great things, which without it could never be +done!</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Emily.</span>—And I am glad, mother, to find you +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">190</span>have proved the truth of your assertion, that +patience conquers difficulties, and crowns all +our endeavours with success.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Owen.</span>—Belzoni was quite a boy when his attention +was first turned to hydraulics; otherwise +he might never have gone into Egypt, for he +went there, you know, mother, in hopes of convincing +the Bashaw that an hydraulic machine +would be of use to irrigate his fields. Had he +not done so, the great pyramid might have remained +unopened a thousand years longer: the +tomb of Psammuthis, in the valley of Beban el +Malook, might never had been explored; and +<i>we</i> should never have heard this amusing narrative +of Belzoni’s discoveries in Egypt and Nubia.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mrs. A.</span>—You see how much depends upon +our youthful pursuits.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“And thus it is—no plainer truth appears,</div> + <div class="verse indent0"><span class="smcap">Our most important are our earliest years</span>.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe20" id="190"> + <img class="w100" src="images/190.jpg" alt="A camp scene with camels"> +</figure> + + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<figure class="figcenter illowe24" id="001"> + <img class="w100" src="images/001.jpg" alt="Publishers bookplate" data-role="presentation"> +</figure> + +</div> + +<p class="center"> + SCHOOL DISTRICT LIBRARY,<br> + <span class="sm">PUBLISHED BY</span><br> + C. S. FRANCIS & CO. NEW YORK. +</p> + +<p class="adv">A detailed account of the contents and character of these works, and the +price of each, may be found in “The Literary Advertiser” of the publishers, +which is furnished gratis, either in New York or Boston.</p> + +<p class="center"> + LIBRARY OF ENTERTAINING AND USEFUL READING,<br> + Twelve volumes, large 18mo. 288 pages each, namely, +</p> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +1. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE MIRROR +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +with 22 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +Engravings. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +2. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE CABINET +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +39 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +3. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE CASKET +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +37 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +4. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE TREASURY +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +34 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +5. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE BUDGET +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +23 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +6. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE REPERTORY +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +33 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +7. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE TABLET +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +31 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +8. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE MEMORIAL +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +36 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +9. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE GLEANER +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +30 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +10. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE EMPORIUM +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +33 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +11. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE SELECTOR +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +27 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +12. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +THE GALAXY +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +26 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="center"> + LIBRARY OF INSTRUCTIVE AMUSEMENT,<br> + Six volumes, 18mo. 336 pages each, namely, +</p> + + +<table class="autotable3"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +13. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +YOUNG MAN’S EVENING BOOK +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +with 50 +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +Engravings +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +14. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +WINTER EVENING BOOK +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +61 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +15. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +SUMMER DAY BOOK +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +72 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +16. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +EVERY DAY BOOK +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +71 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +17. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +PARLOUR BOOK +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +27 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +18. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +LEISURE HOUR BOOK +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +55 +</td> +<td class="tdc">” +</td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td class="tdl padad"> +19. +</td> +<td class="tdl padad" colspan="3"> +BELZONI’S TRAVELS IN EGYPT, <span class="sm">with Plates</span>. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +20. +</td> +<td class="tdl" colspan="3"> +TRUE STORIES FROM HISTORY. <span class="sm">By a Lady.</span> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +21. 22. +</td> +<td class="tdl" colspan="3"> +AROUND THE WORLD, <span class="sm">by an Officer of the Navy</span>. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +23. 24. +</td> +<td class="tdl" colspan="3"> +ZENOBIA, <span class="sm">or the Full of Palmyra</span>. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +25-28. +</td> +<td class="tdl" colspan="3"> +LIFE OF WALTER SCOTT, <span class="sm">by J. G. Lockhart</span>. +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +29. +</td> +<td class="tdl" colspan="3"> +SANDFORD AND MERTON, <span class="sm"><i>Corrected</i>, Pictorial ed.</span> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +30-39. +</td> +<td class="tdl" colspan="3"> +PARLEY’S MAGAZINE. <span class="sm">10 large volumes.</span> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="center"> + Price of the whole set $20. +</p> + +<p class="adv">These books have been submitted to the Superintendent of Common +Schools of the State of New York, and the introduction of them all into +the District Libraries throughout the State is approved by him.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> +<div class="chapter transnote"> +<p class="center"> Transcriber’s Notes.</p> + +<p> +Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised. +</p> + + +<p> A reiteration of the title has been discarded. +</p> + +<p> +A single footnote has been moved to the end of the relevant chapter. +</p> + + +<p> +To improve text flow, illustrations have been relocated between paragraphs, adjacent to the text that they illustrate. +</p> +<p> +A publishers bookplate and advertisement have been moved to the end of the book.</p> + + +<p> Cover art created for this eBook is granted to the public domain. +</p> + +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78838 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/78838-h/images/001.jpg b/78838-h/images/001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..09f79a2 --- /dev/null +++ b/78838-h/images/001.jpg diff --git a/78838-h/images/004.jpg b/78838-h/images/004.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aee7a1b --- /dev/null +++ b/78838-h/images/004.jpg diff --git a/78838-h/images/005.jpg 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