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diff --git a/78829-h/78829-h.htm b/78829-h/78829-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..722d539 --- /dev/null +++ b/78829-h/78829-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10259 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> +<head> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> + <meta name="format-detection" content="telephone=no,date=no,address=no,email=no,url=no"> + <title> + The Great Siberian Railway | Project Gutenberg + </title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + font-family: serify; +} + +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +h2 { margin-top: 4em; } + +p { + margin: 0 auto; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.5em; +} + +figure p { text-indent: 0; } + +.no-indent { text-indent: 0; } + +.mth {margin-top: 0.5em;} +.mt1 {margin-top: 1em;} +.mt2 {margin-top: 2em;} +.mt4 {margin-top: 4em;} + +.mbh { margin-bottom: .5em; 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+ color: black; + font-size:small; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; +} + +.transnote h2 { margin-top: 1em; } + +.blackletter { font-family: Blackletter, Fraktur, Textur, + "Old English Text MT", "Lucida Blackletter", "Chomsky", + "Olde English Mt", "Olde English", "Old English", + "Engravers Old English BT", "Collins Old English", + "New Old English", "Noto Serif Display Black", "Luminari", + Gothic, serif; } + +.pib { + margin: 4em auto; + border-top: 6px double; + border-bottom: 6px double; + width: 80%; +} + +.advertisement h3 { margin: 1em auto .25em auto; } +.hang1 { text-indent: -1em; margin-left: 1em; clear: both;} +.hang3 { text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 3em; } + + +/* Illustration classes */ +.illowp49 {width: 49%;} +.illowp45 {width: 45%;} +.illowp100 {width: 100%;} +.illowp53 {width: 53%;} +.illowp47 {width: 47%;} +.illowp48 {width: 48%;} +.illowp52 {width: 52%;} +.illowp46 {width: 46%;} +.illowp50 {width: 50%;} +.illowp44 {width: 44%;} +.illowp97 {width: 97%;} + </style> +</head> + +<body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78829 ***</div> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp49" id="cover" style="max-width: 122.0625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Book Cover"> +</figure> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">[ii]</span></p> +</div> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="frontispiece" style="max-width: 76.5em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/frontispiece.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FRANCIS E. CLARK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">[iii]</span></p> +</div> + +<h1> + <span class='fs80'>THE</span><br> + GREAT SIBERIAN RAILWAY +</h1> + +<p class="center fs110">WHAT I SAW ON MY JOURNEY</p> + +<p class="center mt4 fs80">BY</p> + +<p class='center mth fs110'>DR. F. E. CLARK</p> + +<p class="center mt4 fs80">WITH SIXTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS<br> +FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND A MAP</p> + +<p class="center blackletter fs110 mt4">London</p> +<p class='center fs110'>S. W. PARTRIDGE AND CO.</p> +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">8 & 9, Paternoster Row</span></p> +<p class='center'>1904</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iv"></a><a id="Page_v"></a>[v]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS"> + CONTENTS + </h2> +</div> + +<table class="autotable"> +<tr> +<th class="tdl" colspan='2'> +<span class='allsmcap'>CHAPTER</span> +</th> +<th class="tdr"> +<span class='allsmcap'>PAGE</span> +</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +I. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#I'><span class="smcap">From New York to Vladivostock</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +1 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +II. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#II'><span class="smcap">The Metropolis of the Northeast</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +13 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +III. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#III'><span class="smcap">Riding on the Rail in Siberia</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +25 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +IV. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#IV'><span class="smcap">From Vladivostock to Khabaroffsk</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +39 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +V. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#V'><span class="smcap">The <i>Baron Korff</i></span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +50 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +VI. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#VI'><span class="smcap">The Lordly Amour</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +61 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +VII. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#VII'><span class="smcap">Between Two Great Nations</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +74 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +VIII. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#VIII'><span class="smcap">A Siberian Capital</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +86 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +IX. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#IX'><span class="smcap">Aground in the Amour</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +101 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +X. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#X'><span class="smcap">On the Shilka</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +114 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +XI. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#XI'><span class="smcap">The Trans-Baikal</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +129 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +XII. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#XII'><span class="smcap">The Holy Sea</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +144 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +XIII. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#XIII'><span class="smcap">A Siberian City of Churches</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +156 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +XIV. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#XIV'><span class="smcap">A Siberian <i>Train de Luxe</i></span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +166 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +XV. +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#XV'><span class="smcap">Out of Asia into Europe</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +180 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href="#SOME_FACTS_AND_FIGURES"><span class="smcap">Some Facts and Figures</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +194 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdr"> +</td> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href="#Synopsis_of_the_Russian_Alphabet"><span class="smcap">English-Russian Glossary</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +201 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"></a><a id="Page_vii"></a>[vii]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"> + ILLUSTRATIONS + </h2> +</div> + +<table class="autotable illustrations"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#frontispiece'>FRANCIS E. CLARK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdr" colspan='2'> +<i>Frontispiece</i> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0041_ill'>CATHEDRAL AT VLADIVOSTOCK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +<i>Facing p.</i> +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +4 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0061_ill'>DRY-DOCK AT VLADIVOSTOCK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +6 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0101_ill'>HARBOR OF VLADIVOSTOCK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +10 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0121_ill'>GROUP OF KOREAN WORKMEN, VLADIVOSTOCK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +12 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0181_ill'>GENERAL TCHITCHAGOFF</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +18 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0221_ill'>GENERAL VIEW OF VLADIVOSTOCK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +22 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0261_ill'>STATION OF KORFOVSKIA, EASTERN SIBERIA, SHOWING AMERICAN +LOCOMOTIVE</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +26 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0301_ill'>“WHO’LL BUY MY FLOWERS?”</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +30 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0321_ill'>VILLAGE OF VIAZEMSKOI, EASTERN SIBERIA</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +32 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0341_ill'>THROUGH THE FOREST IN EASTERN SIBERIA</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +34 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0381_ill'>CITY OF KHABAROFFSK, ON THE AMOUR RIVER</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +38 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0421_ill'>FATHER ALEXANDER AND STATION-MASTER AT NIKOLSKOIE</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +42 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0461_ill'>A PATHETIC SIBERIAN VILLAGE GRAVEYARD</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +46 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[viii]</span> +<a href='#p0481_ill'>THE OLD WAY BY THE “SHIP OF THE DESERT”</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +48 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0501_ill'>THE <i>BARON KORFF</i></a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +50 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0541_ill'>EMBARKING ON AN AMOUR RIVER STEAMER</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +54 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0581_ill'>ON THE SHORE OF THE AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +58 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0621_ill'>A PRISON BARGE</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +62 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0661_ill'>A SIBERIAN RIVER TOWN IN WINTER</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +66 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0701_ill'>A THUNDER-STORM BY NIGHT ON THE AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +70 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0741_ill'>ON THE BANKS OF THE AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +74 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0781_ill'>SOME OF OUR FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. SIBERIAN EMIGRANTS ON THE +AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +78 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0801_ill'>SOME OTHER FELLOW-PASSENGERS. RUSSIAN OFFICERS AND THEIR +FAMILIES</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +80 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0821_ill'>A TRIUMPHAL ARCH IN HONOR OF THE CZAREWITCH’S JOURNEY +THROUGH SIBERIA</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +82 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0841_ill'>A MODEST TRIUMPHAL ARCH AT A LITTLE SIBERIAN VILLAGE</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +84 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0861_ill'>“EACH WOMAN HUGGING TWO OR THREE BOTTLES OF MILK”</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +86 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0901_ill'>THE LEADING HOTEL, BLAGAVESTCHENSK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +90 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0921_ill'>THE CEMETERY AT BLAGAVESTCHENSK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +92 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0941_ill'>ONE OF BLAGAVESTCHENSK’S BEAUTIFUL CHURCHES</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +94 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0961_ill'>A GREAT DEPARTMENT STORE IN BLAGAVESTCHENSK, WITH +MARKET-PLACE IN FRONT</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +96 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p0981_ill'>AN UPPER AMOUR RIVER STEAMER</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +98 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[ix]</span> +<a href='#p1001_ill'>ON THE UPPER AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +100 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1021_ill'>TUMBLING ASHORE FROM THE <i>ADMIRAL CHICACHOFF</i></a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +102 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1061_ill'>CHILDREN OF EMIGRANTS PICKING WILD FLOWERS ON THE BANKS +OF THE AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +106 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1081_ill'>AN EMIGRANT HOUSE ON THE UPPER AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +108 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1101_ill'>THE MEN BEHIND THE BARS ON THE PRISON BARGE</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +110 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1141_ill'>THE HILL-SIDES WERE CARPETED WITH FLOWERS</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +114 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1161_ill'>A TYPICAL WATER-TOWER ON THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +116 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1181_ill'>THE LIGNITE CLIFFS ON THE AMOUR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +118 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1221_ill'>THE EVER-PRESENT SAMOVAR</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +122 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1241_ill'>SOME FIFTH-CLASS PEOPLE</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +124 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1261_ill'>A RAFT ON THE SHILKA</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +126 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1301_ill'>SIBERIAN RECRUITS BOUND FOR CHINA</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +130 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1321_ill'>FOR THIRTY-SIX MORTAL HOURS WE WAITED</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +132 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1341_ill'>A TRANS-BAIKAL TRAIN. PRISONERS CARRYING WATER</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +134 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1381_ill'>BOUND FOR FAR SIBERIA</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +138 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1401_ill'>FIFTEEN MINUTES AT EVERY STATION</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +140 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1421_ill'>PRISON CAR IN SIBERIA. FAMILIES OF PRISONERS AT THE WINDOWS</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +142 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1461_ill'>THE ELEPHANT’S NOSE, LAKE BAIKAL</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +146 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1501_ill'>THE ICE-BREAKER ON LAKE BAIKAL</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +150 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span> +<a href='#p1541_ill'>THE SHORES OF LAKE BAIKAL</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +154 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1581_ill'>BURIATS FROM LAKE BAIKAL, WITH SEAL FROM THE LAKE</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +158 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1601_ill'>AN IRKUTSK DROSKY</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +160 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1621_ill'>GENERAL VIEW OF IRKUTSK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +162 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1661_ill'>ONE OF THE BEAUTIFUL CHURCHES OF IRKUTSK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +166 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1701_ill'>A PART OF OUR <i>TRAIN DE LUXE</i></a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +170 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1741_ill'>A VIEW ON THE ANGARA, NEAR IRKUTSK</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +174 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1761_ill'>A TRAINMAN WHO HAS TAKEN THE VEIL</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +176 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1781_ill'>SIBERIAN RAILWAY NEAR THE ASIATIC BORDER</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +178 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1821_ill'>ZLATOOST, A BORDER TOWN BETWEEN EUROPE AND ASIA</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +182 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1861_ill'>IN THE URAL MOUNTAINS</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +186 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1901_ill'>THE KREMLIN IN WINTER</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +190 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1941_ill'>A SHRINE AT A RAILWAY STATION</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +194 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#p1961_ill'>RUSSIAN TYPES</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +196 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +<a href='#map'>MAP SHOWING THE AUTHOR’S ROUTE FROM VLADIVOSTOCK ACROSS +SIBERIA TO ST. PETERSBURG</a> +</td> +<td class="tdc">”</td> +<td class="tdr"> +200 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[xi]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak x-ebookmaker-important" id="BY_WAY_OF_INTRODUCTION"> + BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>This volume describes the last six weeks +of a long journey undertaken in the interests +of the Young People’s Society of Christian +Endeavor.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Clark and myself having been invited +to attend various conventions of the +society in Japan and China, we started for +the far East, accompanied by our little son +Harold, a boy of twelve years, in the early +days of January, 1900.</p> + +<p>The conventions were, beyond our expectations, +large in numbers, enthusiastic +in interest, and important in their results; +but they cannot be described in this volume.</p> + +<p>Knowing that a new all-steam route +around the world was to be opened by the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">[xii]</span> +completion of the Trans-Siberian Railway +to the head of navigation on the +Shilka River, and having important engagements +at the World’s Christian Endeavor +Convention, which was to meet in +London in July, we determined not to follow +the beaten tracks around the world +which we had before taken, but to attempt +this new route, which binds Asia and Europe, +the Pacific with the Atlantic.</p> + +<p>The last meetings of the series we had +gone to the far East to attend were held in +north China, in Tientsin, Peking, Tungchow, +and Poatingfu, only a few days before +the terrible uprising which bids fair +to make such momentous changes in the +map of the world.</p> + +<p>The meetings being over and our object +in visiting China being accomplished, we +left Taku, as it proved, by the last steamer +that sailed for Corea before the bombardment +of the forts of Taku and the siege of +Tientsin.</p> + +<p>For nearly two weeks we coasted around +the peninsula of Corea, stopping at Chemulpo, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</span> +Mokpo, Fusan, and Wonsan, or +Gensan, as the last-named port is indifferently +called.</p> + +<p>At Fusan, at the southern extremity of +Corea, we spent four days waiting for a +steamer to take us up the coast, and here, +in soil already prepared, the first Christian +Endeavor Society of Corea was planted in +a church of the Australian Presbyterian +Mission.</p> + +<p>At length we reached Vladivostock, and +our long journey across the Siberian plains +by rail and river began.</p> + +<p>At Taku our party had been pleasantly +enlarged by the addition of Miss Anna +Northend Benjamin, of New York, a well-known +lecturer and newspaper correspondent, +on her way home from the Philippines.</p> + +<p>At Wonsan, in Corea, Mr. J. M. Jordan, +British Consul-General to Corea, and Mr. +Burn Murdock, a mining expert, became +our fellow-passengers.</p> + +<p>At Khabaroffsk Mr. J. C. Smith, a leading +merchant of Nagasaki, who was accompanied +by Mrs. Smith, took the same +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</span> +steamer; also Baron Hartogensis, of Germany, +and Herr Ritter, Swiss Consul-General +to Japan, all of whom, with one or +two other foreigners (non-Russians), afterwards +formed themselves into the “Never +Again Society,” to whom this book is dedicated.</p> + +<p>Interest is perhaps added to this journey +from the fact that we were the first +Americans, and in all probability the first +foreigners, to go around the world by the +new route. The trans-Siberian all-steam +route had been opened but a few days when +we took passage at Vladivostock, as I have +explained in an early chapter, and none of +the few who had preceded us across Siberia +by this route had completed the circuit of +the globe.</p> + +<p>If this fact is borne in mind, it will explain +some of the difficulties inevitably incidental +to a new and untried route.</p> + +<p>I wish gratefully to acknowledge the +courtesy of their Excellencies the Russian +Ministers Plenipotentiary to Japan and +China, and to General Tchitchagoff, the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[xv]</span> +Governor of Vladivostock and the Primorskaia, +for their kind assistance in a journey +which, were it not for their aid, would have +been far more difficult and tedious.</p> + +<p>It is also fair to add that already, in the +minds of some at least of the “Never Again +Society,” the discomforts and delays of the +journey have faded into the unremembered +Past, which so kindly and so quickly +touches our little woes with the finger of +oblivion, while its novelties and pleasures +stand out in ever-bolder and happier relief. +If the above-mentioned society were canvassed +to-day, it would not be at all surprising +if its members should unanimously +resolve themselves into a</p> + +<p class='center fs110'> + “<i>Some Time Again Society</i>.” +</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Boston</span>, <span class='fs80'><i>February 2, 1901</i>.</span></p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xvi"></a><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> + + <p class="nobreak center fs150 bold mt2" id="A_NEW_WAY"> + A NEW WAY<br> + AROUND AN OLD WORLD + </p> +</div> + +<hr class='r15'> + + <h2 class="nobreak mt2" id="I"> + I + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>FROM NEW YORK TO VLADIVOSTOCK</span> + </h2> + + +<p>The completion of a new way around +this old world is a matter of no little +interest and moment. Such a new +way has just been opened, and it was my +fortune to be one of the first five passengers +who took this journey.</p> + +<p>On the 28th of December, 1899, the last +rail was laid on the trans-Baikal section +of the Siberian Railway, which for the +present will stop at Stretinsk, and there +connect with the steamers on the Shilka, +a branch of the Amour River, for Khabaroffsk, +where again railway communication +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> +is resumed for a further journey of +five hundred miles to Vladivostock, on the +Sea of Japan. Thus across all of Russia’s +vast domain in Europe and Asia it is possible +to go by steam, a distance of considerably +more than six thousand miles, as +the route is now traversed by river and by +rail. My own route was in the other direction, +from east to west—from Vladivostock +to St. Petersburg.</p> + +<p>Though, as I have said, the last rail of +the trans-Baikal section of the road was +laid on December 28, 1899, the Amour and +its tributaries were then frozen, and no +steam communication could be had until +spring unloosed the icy fetters. The +rivers did not open this year until the +middle of May, and on the 31st day of +May I reached Vladivostock, and on the +1st day of June took passage at Khabaroffsk, +on the Amour River steamer <i>Baron +Korff</i>, for the long journey across the +Russias.</p> + +<p>I mention this fact because the newness +of the route will account for some of the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> +crude and primitive accommodations that +will be alluded to further on in this story.</p> + +<p>To be sure, many other travellers had +crossed Siberia from Vladivostock to St. +Petersburg, but the journey could not, +before May of 1900, be done by uninterrupted +steam travel, and thus one more +way of going around the world by the aid +of the all-compelling steam-engine has +been added to the two that already existed.</p> + +<p>For many years it has been possible to +steam around the Cape of Good Hope and +stormy Cape Horn from New York back +to New York again. For a generation it +has been possible to take the shorter cut +by rail across the American continent and +by steamer through the Suez Canal. Now +a third steam route has been opened which +reduces the ocean journey to a minimum, +and, for the first time in history, makes +the portion of the journey by land considerably +longer than the portion by sea.</p> + +<p>This is surely good news for bad sailors.</p> + +<p>Roughly speaking, this way around the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> +world involves about thirteen thousand +miles of railroad or river travel, and nine +thousand miles of sea travel. Approximately, +these distances may be divided as +follows:</p> + +<table class='miles'> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> + +</td> +<th class="tdr"> +<span class='allsmcap'>MILES.</span> +</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +By rail from New York to San Francisco +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +3000 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +By ocean from San Francisco to Yokohama +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +5000 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +By rail from Yokohama to Nagasaki +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +800 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +By ocean from Nagasaki to Vladivostock +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +1000 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +By rail (and river) from Vladivostock to Liverpool +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +9000 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +By ocean from Liverpool to New York +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +3000 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>I need dwell but briefly on our journey +from New York to Vladivostock, for, so +far as Nagasaki at least, it is getting to +be as commonplace as a trip across the +Atlantic steam ferry. As a matter of +fact, it occupied us more than four months, +owing to various detours in Japan and +China for the sake of attending Christian +Endeavor conventions which had called +me to the far East. This part of the +journey, however, might have been easily +accomplished in twenty-five days—five +days across the American continent, eighteen +days from San Francisco to Yokohama, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> +and two days from Yokohama to +Nagasaki.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="p0041_ill" style="max-width: 75.5em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0041_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CATHEDRAL AT VLADIVOSTOCK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Here the novel part of the journey begins. +We at once get out of the beaten +path of the globe-trotter. He halts on +the southern edge of Japan, or, perhaps, +more often keeps on eastward across the +choppy Yellow Sea to Shanghai, and +thence, if he is really a <em>globe</em>-trotter, on +to Hong Kong, the Straits, Colombo, and +Suez.</p> + +<p>In the future, however, the stream of +world-encirclers is likely to divide at Nagasaki, +one part of the stream flowing +east and south over the old channel, the +other flowing east and north over the new +route which, less than three weeks ago as +I write these words, was opened up around +“this goodly frame the earth.”</p> + +<p>By this latter route, which I am about +to describe, the traveller sails from one +glorious harbor to another—from Nagasaki +to Fusan, Corea; to Wonsan, Corea; +to Vladivostock, Russia. In all of them +“the navies of the world might ride,” according +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span> +to the old platitude, and on this +coast, without much doubt, will be the +naval battle-field of the future, when the +Titans get ready to measure their sea-power +one against another in the struggle +for Corea or China.</p> + +<p>We took passage on a little Japanese +steamer, the <i>Ise Maru</i>, which runs between +Kobe and Vladivostock, and which +belongs to the Nippon Yushen Kaisha, +the largest steamship company in the +world, with steamers plying to America +and Europe and Shanghai and Hong +Kong, besides to the innumerable ports +up and down the coast of Japan.</p> + +<p>Many of the steamers are large and +fine, but the <i>Ise Maru</i> is not one of these. +She is, however, clean and fairly comfortable, +and we will not complain, as the +journey is a short one of less than a thousand +miles.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0061_ill" style="max-width: 125.125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0061_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + DRY-DOCK AT VLADIVOSTOCK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>A prejudice against Japanese captains +and chief officers exists among many foreigners, +who will not sail, if they can help +it, except on ships manned by European +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span> +officers. I must say that I do not share +this prejudice. I have sailed with more +than one Japanese captain and crew, and +I have invariably found them polite and +exceedingly attentive to the comfort of +their passengers, and, so far as I could +judge, excellent seamen, leaning always +to the side of caution in navigating the +treacherous rock-bound coasts. As a +matter of fact, the steamers that have +been lost in these eastern seas have usually +been officered by Europeans, and not +by Japanese.</p> + +<p>Half of the steamers of the Nippon Yushen +Kaisha are officered by Japanese, +and half by Europeans, and the latter +have been by far the most unfortunate.</p> + +<p>So, casting prejudice and fear to the +winds, and trusting in Providence for a +safe voyage, we set sail, and, twenty-four +hours out of Nagasaki, approached the +bold shores of Corea, no longer the hermit +nation, but open now at a dozen doors +to the commerce of the world.</p> + +<p>Fusan, at the southwestern corner of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> +the peninsula, is one of these open doors, +a door, in fact, which has long been open, +for the Japanese for three hundred years +have here kept at least a foot in the doorway +for their own ingress and egress.</p> + +<p>Fusan is in every sense a Japanese +port. The Japanese have been here so +long that they have even trained the great +pine-trees along the streets and on the +temple hill to grow in picturesque Japanese +fashion, and their shops, their banners, +their Shinto shrines, their good roads, +all proclaim their long occupation. The +only Americans in Fusan are found in +a small colony of faithful missionaries, +whose homes, on a picturesque hill between +the Japanese and Corean cities of +Fusan, are conspicuous for miles around. +The next day after her arrival the <i>Ise +Maru</i> weighed anchor again and, shaping +her course due north, made for the +port of Wonsan, on the Corean coast, midway +between Fusan and Vladivostock, and +about three hundred miles from either +port.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span></p> + +<p>Wonsan, like Fusan, possesses a magnificent +harbor, entirely landlocked and +surrounded by imposing hills. No wonder +that Russia, as well as Japan, has cast +covetous eyes upon this splendid port, but +to all appearances Japan has the inside +track, for here, as in Fusan, she has securely +seated herself, has built her houses +and shops and wharves and temples, and +owns more of the shipping that visits the +harbor than all other nations combined.</p> + +<p>A few hours only were given to Wonsan, +and again the whistle of the <i>Ise</i> +shrieked, the anchor was hoisted to the +bows, and the little ship ploughed her way +once more up the bold Corean coast, to +make the last loop in her frequently interrupted +voyage. One of these days Corea, +I believe, will be a favorite haunt of +pleasure-seekers and tourists. The coastline +is magnificently indented with bays +and gulfs, the interior is one series of +grand mountains and lovely valleys, the +west coast is lined with charming islands +that form almost a continuous break to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> +the winds and waves, while the east coast, +though without many islands, furnishes +equally fine scenery and unrivalled delights +for the mountaineer on the shore +and the yachtsman on the sea. The people +are poor, primitive, and, it must be +confessed, dirty, but are kind, courteous, +and even courtly, and, in their white linen +clothes and queer horse-hair hats, are +most picturesque and interesting—far +more so than their neighbors in China, +<i lang="la">me judice</i>.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0101_ill" style="max-width: 125.5625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0101_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + HARBOR OF VLADIVOSTOCK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>But we are bound for Siberia, and must +not in this chapter linger in Corea. Early +on the morning of May 29th, five days out +from Nagasaki, the passengers of the +<i>Ise Maru</i> awoke to find themselves in still +another magnificent landlocked harbor. +One glance at the shore where stands +Vladivostock, the “Magic City,” showed +them that they had left Mongolia and +Mongolians behind them, and, though +still in Asia, and on the extreme eastern +verge of Asia, were in an Asia owned and +dominated by Europeans. Large blocks +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> +of brick and stone crown the hills on which +the town is situated. A great white house +flying the admiral’s flag occupies the most +commanding site. A beautiful Greek +church, with trim minarets, stands near +by. The Russian tricolor is flying everywhere. +We had left behind, as completely +as though we had sailed to another planet, +the mud huts of Corea, the slight one-story +wooden houses of Japan, and the +stone hovels and filthy streets of China, +and suddenly found ourselves in a city of +substantial brick and stone, wide paved +streets, electric lights and telegraph wires, +and railway trains snorting and puffing +down to the very wharves. We could +almost imagine that either Tacoma or +Seattle had bodily taken passage across +the Pacific and had planted itself on the +eastern shore of Asia instead of the western +shore of America. Only the droskies +and tarantasses flying through the +streets, with one horse under the huge +Russian collar while another ran free to +keep up with his trotting-mate, recalled +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> +us to the fact that we were about to step +ashore in monarchical Russia instead of +republican America.</p> + +<p>A score of sampans, each manned by +a long-cued Chinaman, were clamoring +to take us ashore, and we were scarcely +less anxious to accept their invitation, that +we might plant our feet on <i lang="la">terra firma</i>, and +realize that our long ocean voyage was +over and our longer land journey over an +unbeaten track was about to begin.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0121_ill" style="max-width: 125.875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0121_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + GROUP OF KOREAN WORKMEN, VLADIVOSTOCK + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="II"> + II + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>THE METROPOLIS OF THE NORTHEAST</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Vladivostock, on nearer approach, +unlike many towns, carries +out its more distant promise. It +is not a trim and finished town, but it +is one of strong outlines, and evidently +built for a great future. Its chief buildings +are substantial. The town looks as +though it had come to stay. To be sure, +the new outlet which Russia has obtained +through eastern China to the sea at Port +Arthur will rob Vladivostock of its unique +importance as Russia’s only open door on +the Pacific, but her glory as the great +natural port of Siberia, with a limitless +country of vast resources behind her, can +never be taken away. The huge ice-breaker +which crunches up the harbor +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> +ice in winter with its sharp iron beak +is a complete success, and it is no longer +an ice-bound port for even three months +of the year. The winter, though long, is +not unusually severe, and the mercury, I +am told, seldom or never sinks so low as +it does in Boston or New York.</p> + +<p>No sooner had we stepped on shore than +we were treated to our first disillusionment +concerning Russia and the Russians. We +had heard much about the terrors of the +Russian custom-house. We expected to +have our baggage overhauled from turret +to foundation-stone, and the feminine member +of our party had pictured to herself a +swarthy Cossack with sword and cutlass +making hay of her feminine belongings, +while he searched for dutiable goods. +But our Chinese sampan-man landed us +at the pier, and no customs officer appeared +upon the scene. We waited, but +he did not come. We inquired in two or +three different languages for the custom-house, +but no one knew what we meant. +We wandered up and down the pier looking +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> +for some building that resembled the +familiar office where duties are collected, +but could find none. At length, having +fully satisfied our consciences, we boldly +loaded our <i lang="la">impedimenta</i> into a drosky, +and told the driver to take it to the Hôtel +du Pacifique. This he successfully accomplished, +and no officer of the law appeared +to disturb our peace of mind, or to +look into the innocent recesses of our +trunks.</p> + +<p>So far as I know we were subjected to +no surveillance of any sort. We came +and went as we pleased. We minded our +own business, and every one else minded +his. There seemed to be no such inspection +of newly arrived strangers as one is +often conscious of in Germany. And yet, +here we were in autocratic Russia, and, +more than that, in Siberia, the land of the +exile and the prisoner—the land around +whose name has clustered every synonym +for oppression and cruelty.</p> + +<p>I am inclined to think that what I have +been told by an acute observer is very +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> +true, and that Russia is much more autocratic +and inquisitorial on paper than in +reality. Her laws are severe and may be +enforced if needs must, but their iron hand +is seldom felt by the well-disposed. There +is much theoretical restriction, and much +practical liberty.</p> + +<p>The hotels of Vladivostock are not to +be indiscriminately commended. When +Baedeker writes his inevitable guide-book +about Siberia he will not mark them with +his familiar *, unless they greatly improve +upon their present condition. It should +be said, however, that the best one was +recently destroyed by fire, and the chief +one that still remains is probably suffering +from lack of competition. The table +was very good, and the chief fault was +that the rooms and halls were dark and +dirty, and clean linen was a scarce and +precious article. One sheet for each bed +seemed to be the full allowance, and one +small towel for three people was apparently +thought to be an ample supply. When +one of our party righteously complained +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span> +that her towel had evidently done duty before, +the Japanese chambermaid, who did +the English for the hotel, replied that it +was <em>impossible</em> to get another; it was not +to be had. There was not a clean towel +in the hotel. After much importunity, however, +she was induced to loan a long, clean +scarf from her own bureau to serve as a +towel.</p> + +<p>However, this was a minor matter. We +reminded ourselves that we were in Siberia, +and on the eastern edge of Siberia +at that. Who could expect all the amenities +of civilization? We were no sooner +established in our hotel for the day than +I sallied out to seek the governor of Vladivostock +and of this whole eastern province, +to whom I fortunately had a letter from +the Russian minister of Japan.</p> + +<p>Well was it that I found the governor +armed with these credentials, as the sequel +will show in another chapter. Governor +Tchitchagoff received me with the +utmost courtesy. The letter from the +minister to Japan acted like an open sesame +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> +to his kindly attentions, and he at +once despatched a secretary to secure +berths on the train which left the next +day for Khabaroffsk, and sent another +to telegraph to Khabaroffsk to hold a +state-room on the Amour River steamer +for Blagovestchensk, as he knew the +berths were in great demand. At the +same time he gave me a letter to the chief +of police in Khabaroffsk. While waiting +for the preparation of this letter by his +secretary he showed me a map of the vast +province of Primorskaia, of which he is +governor, a province which extends for +two thousand miles up the shores of the +Pacific, clear away to the North Pole, embracing +Kamchatka and the famous Saghalien +Island north of Japan, to which +are banished the worst of Russian convicts.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="p0181_ill" style="max-width: 76.0em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0181_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + <p>GENERAL TCHITCHAGOFF</p> + + <p>Governor of Vladivostock and Primorskaia</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Governor Tchitchagoff is a man of commanding +presence, but most urbane and +gentlemanly, a trait which he shares with +most Russians of the better class, so far +as my observation goes. There is a certain +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> +courtly simplicity about them, free +from all arrogance and brusqueness, +which is the very essence of high breeding. +The governor speaks fluently French +and German, and English with a little +hesitation. This, again, is a type of the +educated Russian of the better class, who +is usually a famous linguist.</p> + +<p>Moreover, the governor is a Cossack, +a name which, in my ignorance, I had +hitherto associated largely with frontier +troopers of the Buffalo Bill order. I confess +my stupid misconception with contrition +of spirit. Thus again came a happy +disillusion concerning Russia and the +Russians. This interview with the governor +set my mind at rest in regard to any +danger of losing the steamer on the first +stage of our long river journey, for I knew +that the word of General Tchitchagoff was +as the law of the Medes and Persians, +which altereth not. He is the virtual czar +of all this Eastern land. It was exceedingly +necessary that we should incur no long +delays, as a most important engagement +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> +awaited me in London within forty-four +days. I had already cabled “London +screaming,” which meant, according to +the cable code, that I would be in London +on the Fourth of July (a most appropriate +cable word for the date in question), and +there were very few days to spare over +the shortest time on record. Mail steamers +on the Amour River start on their various +stages only once in five days, and it +would not do to miss connections at the +outset.</p> + +<p>But now, with easy minds, we set out +to “do” the town. It does not take long +to exhaust its glories, for it is a new town, +in the raw, half-baked stage of its existence, +with most of its glories in the future. +But these are evident enough to +make up for any present deficiencies. +Vladivostock is credited, in the latest published +statistics, with about 29,000 inhabitants, +but it is now said to have 40,000, +chiefly Russians, Chinese, and Coreans, +with a sprinkling of Japanese, Germans, +French, Italians, English, and a very few +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span> +Americans. It is a remarkably cosmopolitan +little city to be found on the +banks of an almost arctic sea, and it +exhibits all the life and picturesqueness +of a little cosmopolis. Russian droskies +go flying about the streets in every +direction, as though their occupants +were pressed for the last second of time, +and would be eternally too late unless +they arrived somewhere within less than +five minutes. Most harum-scarum, reckless +drivers apparently are the drosky +men. Their horses are given a loose +rein, and they go flying down-hill at +breakneck speed, over the rough roads, +and galloping up the next incline with +never a check on their mad career. The +appearance of reckless haste is further +increased by the fact that always one +horse and often two horses are hitched +to the vehicle outside the shafts, by loose +ropes or leather thongs. These horses +often pull away from the wheel-horse +within the shafts so far as the harness +will let them, and they dance and prance +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span> +and gallop while he trots at full speed, +and the drosky goes rattlety-bang over +the stones and into the holes and over the +“thank-ye-marms” in a way that the +Russians seem to like, but which tires the +patience and, let us hope, improves the +liver of the foreign passengers.</p> + +<p>Besides the drosky, the streets are full +of another peculiarly Russian vehicle, +the isvodschik, which resembles a small +boat set on long poles, somewhat after the +fashion of the body of a buckboard. This +is used to carry luggage, and, in many +parts of the country, passengers as well, +who pile into it until it looks like a peasant’s +cart in Naples or a Chinese wheelbarrow +in Shanghai. The Chinese wheelbarrow +is not wanting in Vladivostock +either, and its familiar squeak is heard on +every hand. Vladivostock, indeed, must +be the paradise of the Celestial, for here +he gets a wage of a rouble and a half a +day, which is something like ten times +the pay he would receive in his native +land. Moreover, there seems to be unlimited +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span> +work for him in grading and paving the +streets, carrying brick and mortar, rowing +the sampans, building the railways, +and doing the other drudgery of a new colony. +The Corean, in his dirty white garments +and padded pillow-cushion shoes, +is not far behind him in numbers, and +competes for the manual work of this new +country with his Chinese cousin on the +same terms.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0221_ill" style="max-width: 126.125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0221_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + GENERAL VIEW OF VLADIVOSTOCK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Vladivostock consists of one chief street, +running up-hill and down-dale, with various +branches climbing the hills on every +side. The chief sights are easily done, as +I have said, for they consist of a few fine +stores and public buildings, a beautiful +Greek church with its graceful domes, and +a triumphal arch in honor of the visit of +the czarewitch, a few years ago, when the +first spadeful of earth, in breaking the +eastern end of the new Siberian railway, +was turned by the royal visitor.</p> + +<p>But Vladivostock’s chief glories do not +lie in her public or private buildings, or in +the great fortresses which command the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span> +city and harbor, but in the magnificent +scenery that greets the eye on every hand. +Few cities in all the world are more beautiful +for situation. The Amour Bay, on +one side, and the Bay of Ussuri, on the +other, clasp the city in their kind embrace, +and constantly lave its feet with gentle +ripples. Noble hills stretch off landwards, +and from the main hill-tops within the city +limits one gets glimpses of sea and shore +and mountain and valley of surpassing +loveliness. In view of the long journey to +which we were looking forward, the railway +station, prosaic as it is, was the most +interesting building in all Vladivostock. +Over its doorway is printed, in old Russian +characters, a legend which may well stir +the blood as we think of all that it means. +It reads as follows:</p> + +<p class="center"> + VLADIVOSTOCK TO PETERSBURG<br> + 9877 VERSTS. +</p> + +<p>We were to begin to measure off these +versts on the morrow.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="III"> + III + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>RIDING ON THE RAIL IN SIBERIA</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Our first introduction to a Siberian +railway train was made under +unusually pleasant circumstances. +Hurrying to the station in ample season +to secure what accommodations we could, +and expecting to have a severe struggle +with our tickets and our baggage in a +strange language of which we knew +scarcely a single word, what was our surprise +to have a decorated official, in a +handsome white uniform bound with gold +lace, accost us by name and assure us +that, at the governor’s orders, a first-class +compartment had been reserved for us, +and all we had to do was to buy our +tickets and take our seats. As the train +was very much crowded, and our lack of +knowledge of the language made us almost +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> +as helpless as infants in looking out +for our comfort and advantage, this was +a favor which we most thoroughly appreciated. +Before the train started we were +favored with a call in our little state-room +from the enterprising and energetic United +States Consul, Richard T. Greener, and +also from Mrs. Frederick Pray, a little +American lady, who, a few years ago, +transferred her home half around the +world, from Berwick, Maine, to Vladivostock, +Russia. Her husband is connected +with a large American firm doing business +in Vladivostock, that is introducing many +products of American soil and a thousand +Yankee conveniences to the Siberian public. +Mrs. Pray had kindly prepared for +us a list of common Russian phrases, with +the English pronunciation, which proved +to be exceedingly useful in calling for tea +and bread-and-butter, and a carriage, and +a room at a hotel, or any one of the necessities +of life to the wanderer in Siberia, +where French is scarce, and German +scarcer, and English almost nil.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0261_ill" style="max-width: 125.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0261_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + STATION OF KORFOVSKIA, EASTERN SIBERIA, SHOWING AMERICAN LOCOMOTIVE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span></p> + +<p>The Russian language is formidable +enough even when one has time and opportunity +to make a study of it; to the +passing traveller it is absolutely appalling. +It has thirty-six letters instead of +twenty-six, and several of them seem absolutely +superfluous, for they cannot be +and never are pronounced. The Greek +scholar at first hails the alphabet with +delight, and tackles it with enthusiasm, +for he recognizes several old friends. +There is delta and lambda and phi and +chi and theta and several other letters +that he struggled with in his school-days. +But, alas! his enthusiasm is soon quenched, +for he finds that there are so many +other letters that are neither Greek nor +Roman that he is more confused than +helped by the presence of his old friends +in such strange company.</p> + +<p>Moreover, several of the letters are exactly +like Roman characters, but have a +very different sound, which is very confusing. +For instance, B is not B at all, +but is V, as in vein, while the Russian B +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> +is an entirely different character. H is +not our familiar aspirate, which Cockneys +so sorely abuse, but is our N. P is equivalent +to double R in hu<i>rr</i>y, while the Russian +P is made like the Greek pi. C is +always S, and there is no hard C in Russian. +Y looks very familiar, certainly, +but is really oo, as in m<i>oo</i>n, and a letter +that looks like R wrong side before, Я, is +the vowel ya, as in <i>ya</i>rd. Then there are +certain italicized letters which still further +bewilder the puzzled student, for u = i +and n = p and m = t when written in +italics, but not otherwise. Thus it will +be seen that Russian, “as she is spoke” +or as she is wrote, is not by any means a +holiday affair, and the usefulness of Mrs. +Pray’s extemporized phrase-book can be +fully appreciated.</p> + +<p>But the time has come for the start, of +which we have been made fully aware by +numerous bells and gongs and whistles. +There is no excuse for any one to get left +at a Siberian railway station. Five minutes +before the train starts a large station +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span> +bell is rung. Four minutes more the passengers +stroll up and down the platform +or visit the buffet. Then the bell is rung +once more, the conductor blows his whistle, +the engine shrieks a warning blast, +and at last we are off, with St. Petersburg +9877 versts (more than 6250 miles) away.</p> + +<p>The scenery for a few miles out of Vladivostock +is superb. The railway skirts +one of the great bays between which the +city lies, high up above the water, while +off in the distance, beyond the blue ripples, +lie the blue mountains, only partially +obscured by the morning haze. +Chinese junks, loaded with firewood for +the locomotives, are dancing on the waves, +or unloading their cargo by throwing +the pieces into the sea for the waves to +wash ashore, since the shallow water +prevents the junks from coming close to +the bank. Occasionally the railway diverges +from the shore and runs through +a copse of birch or beech, fresh and +bright in their new spring livery, and +then returns once more to give us a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> +glimpse of the bright blue sea. The +day was charming. Our most delicious +spring weather in America is no more +delightful than this first day of June +in frozen Siberia. Had James Russell +Lowell lived in Siberia, he would have +written with equal rapture his oft-quoted +lines:</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“What is so rare as a day in June?</div> + <div class="verse indent0">Then, if ever, come perfect days.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>On one of these “perfect days” it was +our good fortune to journey from Vladivostock. +The spring seemed just about +as far advanced as it would be in northern +New England on the same date. +The meadows were lush and rank in +their growth, and the cattle waded knee-deep +in their delicious fodder, and were, +of course, as sleek and fat as cattle could +be. The trees were nearly in full leaf, +though some of the later varieties had not +as yet donned their full suit of green. +Great dandelions, almost as large as peonies, +starred the fields with yellow, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span> +bluebells and tiger-lilies made the roadway +gay.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp53" id="p0301_ill" style="max-width: 75.3125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0301_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + <p>“WHO’LL BUY MY FLOWERS?”</p> + <p>Lilies-of-the-valley at the railway station</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>At the stations little girls with bare feet +offered great bunches of lilies of the valley +for sale, and I noticed that they were +not unlike the rest of the world in taking +advantage of the unsophisticated traveller, +for, while I paid fifteen kopeks for a +bunch, a Russian by my side, who knew +how to dicker and bargain in the vernacular, +paid but three kopeks for his lilies. +But every traveller in a strange land +must pay dear for his experience as well +as for his lilies. Let me say, once for all, +that one hundred kopeks make a rouble, +and that a rouble, at the present rate of +exchange, is worth a little more than fifty +cents. Russian money is on the gold +basis, and is in gold, silver, paper, and +copper. National bills up to the value of +five hundred roubles are good in any part +of the empire, and are in denominations +of three, five, ten, twenty-five, fifty, +one hundred, and five hundred roubles. +Gold is in common use in pieces of five, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> +seven and one-half, ten, and fifteen roubles, +and silver in roubles, half-roubles, +and twenty-five, twenty, fifteen, ten, and +five kopek pieces, while copper coins are of +one, two, three, and five kopeks in value. +In my opinion, there are too many coins +of different values, and one and five kopek +pieces in copper, and ten, twenty-five, +and fifty kopek pieces in silver, and five +and ten rouble pieces in gold would +answer quite as well the purposes of +trade as the larger variety now in use. +As it is, the fifteen, twenty, and twenty-five +kopeks are so nearly of the same +size as to be confusing, especially as different +issues of the same value are not +always of exactly the same size. The +older silver coins seem to be of debased +metal, with a large admixture of copper, +but the newer coins that bear the image +and superscription of the present czar +are of much better metal.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0321_ill" style="max-width: 125.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0321_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + VILLAGE OF VIAZEMSKOI, EASTERN SIBERIA + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>After the edge of the novelty of our first +ride on a Siberian railway wore off we +had time to examine the railway equipment +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> +and the carriages in which we were +riding. The train was drawn by a sturdy +Baldwin locomotive, fitted with a big bulbous +smoke-stack for burning wood, and +consisted of about a dozen cars of the first, +second, and third classes, in which the +third-class largely predominated. The +third-class were painted green, the second-class +yellow, and the first-class a dark +shade of blue. Sometimes a single car +was divided into two classes, first and +second, one-half being painted blue and +the other yellow, with very little difference +between the two classes except the color +of the paint and the price of the tickets. +The second-class cars were, perhaps, upholstered +a shade less luxuriously than +the first, and were somewhat more crowded, +though there was little to choose in this +respect. The first-class fare was seventeen +roubles (about eight dollars and a +half), and the second-class about one-half +that sum. We were told in advance that +the trains were built on the “American +plan,” but it is really a combination of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> +the American and English, somewhat in +vogue on the continent of Europe. All +the first and second class cars are divided +into compartments, but down their side +runs a narrow corridor wide enough for +only one person to squeeze through at a +time. The compartments open on this +corridor, and through it the conductor +passes to collect his fares; passengers +walk back and forth, babies escaped from +their nurses toddle down, and it is the +general thoroughfare for a heavy-laden +train. Being exceedingly narrow, it is +always “congested,” and a fat man finds +it his “misery,” indeed. In order to get +through at all he must turn sideways and +go crab fashion. There seems to be a +great social democracy in this aristocratic +country, and passengers from the +different classes visit back and forth with +the utmost freedom, and occupy compartments +of a higher class than their own for +half a day at a time.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0341_ill" style="max-width: 125.125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0341_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THROUGH THE FOREST IN EASTERN SIBERIA + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>As a rule, the Russians are exceedingly +polite and considerate of other people, and, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> +for the most part, the rude and selfish +people whom we have met on this journey +have belonged to other nationalities. +The third-class cars frequently have an +aisle down the middle, with seats on either +side. As all the coaches are meant for +night travel, all provide what is called +“lying-down room”—<i>i.e.</i>, room is provided +for each passenger to stretch out at full +length either in the upper or lower berth. +The first and second class cars are luxuriously +upholstered, and, by a curious contrivance, +the upper bed turns over and becomes, +not “a chest of drawers,” but the +back of the seat by day. The only real +lack of a Siberian railway is suitable lavatory +accommodations. The little toilet-room +is often a wretched, filthy closet, +with a single wash-basin and a very limited +supply of water, and it answers for +all, men and women alike. This fault is +shared by all Siberian hotels and steamboats +that I have seen. The one cramped +and dirty spot is the wash-room (for many +hotels have a common lavatory, and no +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> +water is brought to the rooms), and the +one scarce article is fresh, cold water. +Beer, wine, vodka, tea, especially tea, flows +freely, but to order a glass of water to +drink, or a basin of water, much more a +tub of water for a bath, creates a commotion, +and the water desired is often unattainable, +except after strenuous effort. A +Siberian writer remarks, naïvely, that +“Englishmen have the bad habit of washing +themselves all over every day. <em>As a +consequence of this habit</em>, their bodies emit +an unpleasant odor.” It must be said +in all fairness, however, that hotels, cars, +and steamers in Siberia are, outside of the +wash-rooms, clean and wholesome for the +most part. To one who has just come +from China or Corea, and who has tasted +the rare discomforts of travel in those +countries, they seem to be beyond criticism.</p> + +<p>Besides the cars already mentioned, a +baggage-car and a dining-car completed +our train equipment. The latter, at least +three times a day, is a place of much interest, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span> +and deserves a few words of description.</p> + +<p>Pullman would scarcely own the diner +as an offspring of his invention. A long +table down the middle, at which perhaps +twenty people can sit at one time, and a +bar at the end, at which all kinds of light +and strong drinks are served, and toothsome +delicacies dear to the Russian heart, +like caviare, sardines, and other little fishes +“biled in ile,” are eaten. At the long +table <i lang="fr">table d’hôte</i> meals are served, consisting +of three or four courses, and one +can also order what he chooses, at a fixed +price. The meals are usually one rouble +each, and though not luxurious, from the +American dining-car point of view, they +are quite sufficient for the average traveller, +and worth the price asked for them. +To be sure, one must get used to the greasy +Siberian soup and to the chunks of tough +stewed meat, which may be beef, mutton, +or pork, one is never certain which. But +travellers who choose to go across Siberia +should not be squeamish, and to think of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> +eating in a dining-car, however primitive, +while whirling across the plains a little +south of Kamchatka, is enough to kill the +spirit of criticism in the most confirmed +growler who ever went around the world.</p> + +<p>It only remains to be said that the road-bed +of the Eastern Siberian railway is well +made, but seems to lack permanent stone +ballast, the bridges are substantial iron +structures, the piers and culverts are thoroughly +built of cut stone, the embankments +are smooth and well sodded, but the +rails are light, and, it would seem, must be +replaced by heavier ones before any high +rate of speed can be attained.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0381_ill" style="max-width: 125.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0381_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CITY OF KHABAROFFSK, ON THE AMOUR RIVER + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="IV"> + IV + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>FROM VLADIVOSTOCK TO KHABAROFFSK</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The distance from Vladivostock to +Khabaroffsk is a little less than +five hundred miles, and it requires +fully twenty-nine hours to cover it, so it +will be seen that the trains are not run on +the “Empire express” plan. However, +before we had been many days in Siberia +such a rate of progress had come to seem +speed itself. The stations on the eastern +end of the Siberian railway are not +many, for the villages are few and far between, +but we make up for the fewness of +the stops by spending a long time at each +station. Still we can occupy the waiting +time very pleasantly by getting many, +though fleeting, glimpses of Siberian life. +The stations themselves are usually wooden +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> +buildings, neat and attractive and prettily +painted. A picturesque water-tower +is always a feature of the grounds, and +usually an underground store-house, sodded +over, that looks like an Oklahoma +cyclone cellar. In this, doubtless, provisions +are kept from freezing during +the long Siberian winter. All the principal +stations have buffets, where thirsty +Russians refresh themselves with vodka, +kvass, and other national drinks.</p> + +<p>The villages usually consist of a few log-houses, +with an occasional more pretentious +frame house, but they are neat and +attractive, and compare very favorably +with the villages on our own Western +frontier. The most interesting object at +all these stations was the line of country +men, women, and children who had +brought the products of their farms to +sell to the hungry travellers. Every station +had its hucksters, not noisy or obtrusive, +but waiting patiently in an orderly +line for customers. Bottles of milk +for ten kopeks, hard-boiled eggs for ten +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> +kopeks a dozen, huge loaves of black, +sour bread in which the Siberian rejoices, +chunks of fried meat and fried fish, huge +pickled cucumbers, bottles of home-brewed +kvass, a kind of innocent pop beer, were +among the comestibles offered for sale. +The hucksters were all hearty, healthy +specimens of humanity, not refined or +elegant in feature or dress—this could +scarcely be expected in this new land—but +wholesome, honest-faced settlers, capable, +evidently, of laying deep and strong the +foundations of an empire. I am told that +many of them are dissenters from the +Greek Church, and that they live godly +and simple lives, and are much respected +by their neighbors, and in this part of +the country at least are unmolested by +the government, unless they try to proselyte +among adherents of the national +faith. Most of them, too, are vegetarians. +Every village has its church, often embowered +in a little park of green, and the +towers of blue and green, colors which +the Siberians greatly affect for their +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> +churches, and bright copper domes, shining +in the brilliant sun, always gave a +touch of pleasing color to the scene, and +showed that the people were not wholly +given to buying and selling and getting +gain in these little raw railway settlements.</p> + +<p>The costumes of the people who flocked +to the railway stations were most picturesque +and interesting. Red was decidedly +the favorite color with the women, and +red of every shade and hue. Dull red +and bright red, Turkey red and blood red, +crimson, magenta, scarlet, and crushed +strawberry. Often several, if not all, of +these colors were combined in the same +costume in a way which, I suppose, would +have set the teeth of our fashion-plate +ladies on edge, but which, after all, was +undeniably picturesque.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp49" id="p0421_ill" style="max-width: 74.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0421_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FATHER ALEXANDER AND STATION-MASTER AT NIKOLSKOIE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The men were usually clad in a loose +blouse, belted around the waist, and loose +trousers tucked invariably into huge top-boots +that reached nearly to the knee. +Many times these boots looked to be by +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span> +far the most expensive feature of the costume. +As a Mexican peasant will often +wear a sombrero, it is said, worth as much +as his coat and trousers and boots, mule +and saddle—in fact, the whole outfit combined—so +the Siberian peasant clothes the +other end of his anatomy with equal care, +and even if he must go in rags, will bankrupt +himself on his boots.</p> + +<p>At all these stations the military were +strongly in evidence, as is not unnatural, +since this is a military road and the large +places are all military headquarters. +Everywhere, in the cars and out, officers +and soldiers were to be seen. At least +every other man you met seemed to be in +uniform. But they, too, were invariably +polite and showed nothing of the haughty +arrogance and devil-may-care air often +exhibited by the soldiery of Germany and +other army-ridden countries. In fact, I +was struck on this railway ride, and on +all my other journeys in Siberia, by a certain +quiet, dignified, self-contained air +that the people displayed. The hucksters +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> +are not insistent on your buying their +wares. The cabmen are not vociferous. +The few beggars are not obtrusive. It is +as though the vast, lonely stretches of +their homeland had somehow impressed +themselves upon the character of the people. +The broad reach of upland and prairie, +the noble hills, the wide stretch of blue +heavens above them, the long, serious +winter, the strenuous conditions of their +life in this virgin land, have developed a +national character, which seems never to +have acquired the noise and bustle and +artificial “hustle” of city-dwellers. On +the whole, it is a pleasing, restful, and, I +should think, likable type of character to +which these surface indications point. I +felt that I was back in the early days of +New England, among the Pilgrim fathers +and mothers of a new empire, as I looked +into these earnest, frank, and serious +faces, and as I looked I had large hope +for the empire they are founding.</p> + +<p>The parish priest is also a picturesque +and interesting factor of village life. He +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span> +often came to the station to take part +in the one excitement of the day, the +arrival of the daily passenger train. He +was usually clad in flowing robes of +black, with a close-fitting purple cap, +while a huge gold or silver crucifix dangled +from his neck. His hair is always long +and curly. Whether the Greek priests +were chosen for their curly hair or indulged +in the use of curling-irons when +preparing their morning toilet was a question +which interested the ladies in our +party. They seemed to mingle with their +people on terms of benevolent equality, +and their kindly and gracious presence +shed a benediction even upon the railway +platform. They were not averse to having +their pictures taken, and the camera +enthusiasts “snapped” the holy fathers +with the greatest freedom.</p> + +<p>The kodak is not unknown in Siberia, +but it is evidently much more of a novelty +than in the west, and always attracted +crowds of staid peasants who wanted to +look into the “finder” and see the resultant +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span> +picture. Some were quite disappointed +that the completed picture could not immediately +be taken out of the camera and +shown to them. One gorgeous railway +official, much be-braided and be-spangled +with gilt, insisted on having his black-bearded +face transferred to the sensitive +film. He posed with his most radiant +expression, without any exhortation to +“look pleasant.” He followed our party +about, and apparently expressed every +good wish for our successful journey, +though our knowledge of Russian was +not equal to his voluble good wishes, and, +finally, just as the train pulled out of his +station, he handed us a paper on which +he had written a request that we telegraph +him of our safe arrival at Blagavestchensk, +a city on the Amour River, a +thousand miles further west. A kindly +fellow-feeling that, to be provoked while +the train stopped “ten minutes for refreshments.”</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0461_ill" style="max-width: 114.0625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0461_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A PATHETIC SIBERIAN VILLAGE GRAVEYARD + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Fifty miles after leaving Vladivostock +the railway climbs to a considerable plateau, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> +and the trees disappear, while open +prairie land takes the place of the forests +that crown and gird the hill-sides. For a +couple of hundred miles, at a rough guess, +the open prairie land continues. The soil +mostly seemed to be a rich black loam, +and one would think it was capable of +supporting millions of people where it +now supports hundreds.</p> + +<p>On the second morning of our journey, +twenty hours after leaving Vladivostock, +we woke up in a heavily wooded, hilly +region, and I had to rub my eyes to make +sure that I was not dreaming and had +really awaked in Siberia and not in northern +Maine. Here was the Moosehead +Lake region duplicated, apparently, in +every stump and white birch-tree and corduroy +road. Here were the same tree-clad +hills and rocky ravines, with glimpses +of other and higher hills peering above +the tree-tops. Here were the same clear +running brooks, babbling over their rocky +beds, the same patches of charred timber +burned to clear the land, the same flora +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span> +down to the dandelions, blue-bells, butter-cups, +and cowslips. To be sure, there +was not such a predominance of spruce-trees +as in northern Maine, but their +places were taken by the larch and cedar +and other evergreens, and white and yellow +birch, beech, and poplar, which predominated, +made me feel very much at +home.</p> + +<p>For hours these familiar forests lined +the railway, and then the train emerged +into the fertile plains that border the +Amour. Here the snow fences, piled up +in their summer quarters, reminded one +of the prairies of our own Northwest, and +showed that in the Siberian winter the +railway has the same great enemy to +fight. The telegraph poles, often braced +by two supports until they look like so +many tripods, also testify to the strength +of Siberian winds. At length, at noon of +the second day, twenty-nine hours after +leaving Vladivostock, the spires and chimneys +of Khabaroffsk appear across the +prairie, and we realize that the first stage, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span> +and a very pleasant one, of our trans-Siberian +journey was nearly finished.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0481_ill" style="max-width: 119.9375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0481_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE OLD WAY BY THE “SHIP OF THE DESERT” + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Scarcely had the train pulled into the +station of Khabaroffsk, and before I could +get to the door of the car, when a police official +in gorgeous raiment crowded in and +inquired anxiously for “Pastor Clark from +America.” When I confessed to being, in +all probability, the individual that he +sought, the official seemed much relieved, +and at once took charge of me and mine, +bag and baggage, and summoned a small +squad of soldiers, or sub-police, to assist +him. Evidently the kindly telegram of +Governor Tchitchagoff was doing its beneficent +work, and, like expectant American +politicians, we were “in the hands of +our friends.”</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="V"> + V + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>THE <i>BARON KORFF</i></span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Our friend in need proved a friend +indeed, for it would have been no +easy thing, knowing scarcely a +word of the language, to disentangle our +baggage, secure a cart to carry it, and +droskies to carry ourselves, and make +our way through the city of Khabaroffsk +to the steamboat landing two miles away +in season to catch the mail steamer, which, +with steam up and whistle shrieking, was +waiting to start on her long journey up +the mighty Amour. But our official accomplished +it all for us with celerity and +despatch. He picked out our baggage, +hired our droskies, took another himself, +and drove to the steamer, saw our +baggage safely bestowed in a state-room +which had been secured for us at the governor’s +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> +orders, and did not leave us until +we were fairly established in our comfortable +and commodious quarters on the +<i>Baron Korff</i>. We appreciated this courtesy +the more fully when we learned that +the steamer was exceedingly crowded, that +it went only once in five days, and that +some people had already been waiting fifteen +days for the coveted passage. Our +rapid flight through Khabaroffsk was +made in a cloud of dust which would have +done honor to Peking itself, the dustiest +city in the world. Through the dust, +however, we were able to catch glimpses +of a frontier American-like town, with some +good business blocks of brick and a fine +cathedral church. We afterwards learned +that Khabaroffsk contains about fifteen +thousand inhabitants, and its importance +is derived from the fact that it is the highest +seat of government for all this vast +section of the Amour River. Sitting on +a high bluff at the juncture of the Amour +and the Ussuri, a great stream which here +joins its forces with its greater rival, the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> +town occupies a commanding position and +is regally situated to dominate the traffic +of both rivers. In any other land the +Ussuri itself would be a notable river, +but in this country of great rivers, though +it is nearly a mile wide at its juncture +with the Amour, it is only a branch of +eastern Siberia’s greater waterway.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0501_ill" style="max-width: 115.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0501_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE <i>BARON KORFF</i> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Since the <i>Baron Korff</i> was to be our +home for the next week, and, in a literal +as well as figurative sense, we were to +be “all in the same boat” with the rest of +her passengers, we were naturally anxious +to know something of them and of +her, if it is proper to speak of a baron as +belonging to the feminine sex. A hasty +inspection showed us that the <i>Baron +Korff</i> was a stately side-wheeler, such as +might have done duty on the Mississippi +before the railroads robbed her of her commercial +glory. The first-class accommodations +were well forward, and consisted +of roomy and comfortably furnished staterooms +for about twenty people on the upper +deck, each room having berths for two +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> +people, a long dining-saloon, into which +the state-rooms opened, and a pleasant +saloon in front, handsomely furnished +and provided with a good German piano. +This saloon made a delightful sitting-room +for the passengers, for its abundant +glass furnished a splendid view of the +river and the banks on either side, between +which the <i>Baron</i> made her devious +way. Behind the first-class cabins +was a large open space, sheltered from +the wind, and suitable for a promenade. +Here was a restaurant and bar, frequently +patronized by some of our thirsty fellow-passengers, +while behind it were the second-class +cabins, which looked to me nearly +as comfortable as those at the other end +of the ship. Down below were huddled +together a miscellaneous crowd of peasants—men, +women, and children—with +their scant piles of bedding and all their +worldly possessions; sturdy men in top-boots +and figured gowns belted at the +waist, often with a sleeveless vest worn +outside; women in gay calicoes and hobnailed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> +shoes; children clad in little more +than nature’s original raiment—all were +here. On the hard iron floor they spread +out their quilts, piled their household goods +about them, and prepared to make the +best of their six days in the bowels of the +<i>Baron Korff</i>.</p> + +<p>Their accommodations were not luxurious, +certainly, but when we remember +that they paid but three roubles and six +kopeks for the entire 918 versts, more than +six hundred miles, to Blagavestchensk, or +only about one dollar and a half, we cannot +think that the accommodations were +disproportionate to the price.</p> + +<p>The chief rival of our friends in the +steerage was the great pile of wood, for +which the <i>Baron Korff</i> had an insatiate +maw, and which, when first put on board, +occupied fully one-half the space of the +steerage, but which, every hour, sensibly +diminished until we came to a station, +where a new supply was taken on board.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0541_ill" style="max-width: 109.1875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0541_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + EMBARKING ON AN AMOUR RIVER STEAMER + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The second-class fare was four times +the third-class, or thirteen roubles and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span> +ninety-seven kopeks, and the first-class +more than seven times the third, or twenty-two +roubles and ninety-six kopeks. I +am constrained to admit, however, that +the first-class accommodations are fully +seven times as good as the third, though +I do not think they are twice as good as +the second.</p> + +<p>For the meals on the Amour steamers +one pays separately, at the rate of two +roubles a day, not an extravagant sum, +indeed; but they were not extravagant +meals, and they cost all they were +worth.</p> + +<p>In the morning, about eight, tea was +served, with the inevitable samovar occupying +the place of honor in the centre. +Slices of lemon and sugar were provided, +according to the Russian style, but no +milk. Soft bread and zweiback, without +butter, completed the first meal of the +day.</p> + +<p>The second, and principal, meal was +served promptly at noon, and consisted +of a thick, greasy soup, a course of meat +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> +with no potatoes, and very scanty vegetables +of any kind, and a pudding. On +rare occasions ice-cream took the place of +the pudding. Tea was served again at +four o’clock, and supper, which consisted +of one meat course without vegetables, and +more tea, completed the menus for the +day. If one wished to supplement these +meals with orders from the restaurant of +caviare or smoked fish or boiled eggs, of +course he was at liberty to do so.</p> + +<p>The first meal served on the <i>Baron +Korff</i> on our voyage was supper. Fifteen +foreigners and five Russians sat down to +the table together. None of the foreigners, +at least, knew what to expect from +the culinary department. The meat was +served, and was sparingly partaken of, +on the supposition that, after the fashion +of other steamers, four or five other courses +would follow. Then came a long wait. +The plates were removed, and still we +waited. The minutes lengthened into +a full quarter of an hour, and at length +the one overworked waiter appeared, bearing, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> +not the expected fish or vegetables +or salad or dessert, but <em>the brass samovar</em>, +and we knew a tumbler of tea was +all that was to be expected. The craning +of necks as the long-delayed waiter +entered the room, and the expressions of +disappointment when his sole burden was +discovered, were amusing. But though +some went hungry to bed the first night, +Experience, the mother of wisdom, taught +a needed lesson for all travellers on the +Amour River—to lay in a sufficient store +from the first platter, and not trust to the +“hereafter.” After that no one omitted the +first course.</p> + +<p>I dwell somewhat at length on these +details, because, so far as my experience +of Siberian river-steamers goes—and this +experience became somewhat large and +varied before we reached Stretinsk, twenty +days later—they are characteristic of all +river travel in Siberia.</p> + +<p>The steward, to whom I have already +alluded, was a sadly overworked individual. +He was waiter, cook, bell-boy, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span> +chambermaid, boots, and man-of-all-work +for all the twenty first-class passengers, +and, as can be imagined, no grass was +allowed to grow under his feet. To be +sure, his duties as chambermaid were +merely nominal, for every one took care +of his own room, furnished his own bedding, +and made his own bed, and all had +to wash in a common lavatory and furnish +their own towel, soap, and, of course, +all toilet articles. This common washroom +arrangement was the most unpleasant +feature of the <i>Baron Korff</i>, and we +had occasionally to remind ourselves that +we were in the extreme boundaries of Siberia. +Who, then, had a right to look +for all the luxuries of the latest civilization?</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0581_ill" style="max-width: 125.125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0581_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + ON THE SHORE OF THE AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>At length we were embarked on the long +river journey to which we had so long been +looking forward, and about which we had +heard such various and contradictory reports. +For months we had made it a point +to inquire of every one likely to know concerning +the trans-Siberian route. No two +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> +people agreed concerning it, or came within +sight of agreement. “It can’t be done,” +“You can do it easily,” “It will take two +months,” “You can go through in twenty-two +days,” “You will get stuck on the +sand-bars for weeks,” “You will have no +difficulty whatsoever,” “The steamers run +only occasionally, and do not begin until +the 11th of June,” “They run every day, +and the river is open early in May,” “You +will need heavy clothes, and all your winter +furs,” “You will find delightful summer +weather,” “You will have to ride in +cattle-cars when you get to the end of +your boat journey,” “You will have the +most luxurious railway accommodations +in the world.”</p> + +<p>Such were the varied and miscellaneous +bits of misinformation which we had been +able to pick up in America, Japan, China, +and even in Vladivostock itself. But now +the journey on the great waterway of Siberia +had begun. The paddle-wheels of +the <i>Baron Korff</i> had begun to revolve, +we were to be among the first few score of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> +people who had crossed the Russias by +steam, and we should soon know which +of these conflicting stories were correct, +or whether they were all alike untrustworthy.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="VI"> + VI + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>THE LORDLY AMOUR</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Fair as was the scene that first bright +June day on the Amour, we could +not altogether forget that we were +in Siberia, for, as the lines of the <i>Baron +Korff</i> were cast off, another steamer of +like pattern anchored just beyond moved +out of our way, and we saw that she was +towing a convict barge, and the faces of +the poor fellows bound for dismal exile +could be seen, pressing close up to the +bars of their floating cage. These prisoners +were bound for Saghalien Island, +a thousand miles away, at the mouth of +the Amour.</p> + +<p>No sooner had the <i>Baron Korff</i> gotten +clear of the pier than we found that she, +too, towed a convict barge, and henceforth, +for days and days, for hundreds of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span> +miles, one of these grewsome ships followed +in our wake, tugged by the same +steam-power that carried us along. But +what a difference! We were journeying +in comparative luxury, with pleasant +company, and all the freedom that a roomy +steamer can furnish, to friends in Europe, +and then to our home in the home land.</p> + +<p>They, shut up in a white, floating cage, +in narrow quarters, were facing exile and +misery, and perhaps death, far from their +homes and kindred. Every revolution +of the paddle-wheels was carrying us +nearer home, and them farther away. +What a mockery the bright sunshine and +green, tree-clad banks, and boundless, +free prairies, stretching beyond, must +have seemed to these cabined, cribbed, +confined, hemmed-in voyagers!</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0621_ill" style="max-width: 112.0625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0621_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A PRISON BARGE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>It must be confessed that these particular +convict barges from a distance did +not look either filthy or overcrowded, and +closer inspection afterwards convinced +me that if prisoners must be exiled, they +could scarcely have expected more comfortable +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> +conveyance. Still the thought +of those fellow-travellers, so near and yet +so far from the view-point of freedom, +hope, and good cheer, cast a shadow on +the journey whenever we looked at their +white prison trailing on behind.</p> + +<p>The Amour at Khabaroffsk, though we +were more than five hundred miles from +its mouth, was fully a mile and a half +wide, and flowed in a strong, full current, +which fact we realized for many a day +thereafter, as we made our slow and toilsome +way against it. The Amour is one +of the few greatest rivers of the world. +In length it is equalled by no river in Europe, +and surpassed only by the Yang-tse-Kiang +and Yenisei, in Asia, by the Nile +and Congo, in Africa, and by the Amazon +and Mackenzie, in America, though, if we +reckon the Mississippi and Missouri as +one river, it is longer than any of them +except the Nile.</p> + +<p>The basin drained by the Amour contains +over 500,000 square miles. It is a +singular fact that so many of the great +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span> +rivers of the world are of nearly the same +length. The Amour, Yenisei, Mekong, +Obi, Hoangho, and Lena, in Asia, are all +within two or three hundred miles of the +same length, and all surpass 2500 miles.</p> + +<p>The Congo, according to the geographers, +is only about a hundred miles longer +than the Amour, while the Niger is +two hundred miles shorter. The Amazon +is three hundred miles longer than the +Amour, the Mackenzie a hundred miles +longer, while the St. Lawrence falls short +of it by six hundred miles.</p> + +<p>But, in a general way, it may be said +that a dozen of the great rivers of the +world are practically of the same length. +Of them all, few are more majestic and +imperious in their flow, or drain a fairer +country than the Amour.</p> + +<p>Its water is somewhat muddy at Vladivostock, +but nothing like the consistency +of the Mississippi at St. Louis. It cannot +not be said to be “both food and drink.” +As we ascend its swift current it constantly +grows clearer, until, a thousand miles +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> +farther up, it is about the color of white +wine, and is sweet and wholesome to the +taste.</p> + +<p>The Amour is unique in the fact that it +flows through a fertile country which is +almost uninhabited, and yet is capable of +supporting millions. No great cities line +its banks, and not many towns that rank +larger than hamlets. Even these are few +and far between, and one journeys for +half a day at a time without seeing even +one little hut among the bushes. Its +shores are still in their virgin greenery. +For hundreds of miles at a time one sees +not a cultivated field, though doubtless +some such tilled land lies back from the +river and out of sight. Great wood-piles +for the use of the frequent river-steamers +are the most common objects that show +the hand of man, but even these are often +in desperately lonely spots, so that one +can scarcely believe that they were ever +visited by human beings. And yet all +this immense river basin of half a million +square miles is apparently fertile and habitable, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> +and, when we saw it, was glowing +in rich and brilliant verdure. Surely +the world is not yet over-peopled while +such a lordly domain is waiting for the +plough and the reaper.</p> + +<p>To be sure, we saw the Amour Valley +in early June, when everything in nature +is at its freshest and best, and our judgment +might have been modified had we +seen it in December. Still, every country, +like every man, should be judged at its +best and not at its worst.</p> + +<p>Promptly at four o’clock the <i>Baron +Korff</i> started on her long journey, and +went zigzagging across the lordly river +in order to stem the swift current as best +she might. On the left-hand side was +Chinese Manchuria, on the right Russian +Siberia. But the Bear has her huge +paw on all this country, and only by sufferance +has she for many years allowed +the Sick Man of Asia to nominally rule +the left bank of the river.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0661_ill" style="max-width: 124.3125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0661_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A SIBERIAN RIVER TOWN IN WINTER + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>It is a suggestive journey that we are +taking on the broad ribbon of water that +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> +divides two of the greatest nations of the +world—the one hoary and decrepit, with +the weakness of her centuries heavy upon +her, the other lusty and stout in comparative +youth, like a strong young man lately +come to the consciousness of virile powers.</p> + +<p>Two hundred years ago and more China +and Russia tried conclusions on these +same plains of the Amour, and then China +came off best. Russian garrisons were +captured and carried off to Peking, and +a treaty was concluded ceding all this +land back to China. But during these +two centuries China has daily been growing +weaker and more corrupt in her senility. +Russia has become mightier with +each succeeding year.</p> + +<p>In 1868, by the treaty of Aigun, so +called because of the Chinese town on +the banks of the Amour, where the treaty +was signed, China ceded all the country +north of the river to the Great Bear, who +afterwards obtained concession after concession, +until she was paramount in all +Asia north of and including Peking. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> +Then came the last uprising of China, +which began the very month this journey +was made, and which again threatened +Russia’s domination, at least for a time. +Thus the shuttlecock of dominion over +northern Asia has been thrown back +and forth between the battledore of Russia +and China, and the end is not yet.</p> + +<p>It will be seen that if this country +through which we are making our zig-zag +route is lonely, it is not devoid of +historic interest. It has been and is a +battle-ground for armies and diplomats, +and is likely to play a still larger part on +the world’s checker-board in the future.</p> + +<p>All through the first afternoon and +through the long twilight which, in these +northern latitudes, leaves but a few hours +to the night, the <i>Baron Korff</i> ploughed her +way along the mighty river which seemed +to be vexed by no other paddles. But so +great is its extent that, although there +are hundreds of steamboats on the river, +to meet one is still an event.</p> + +<p>During the first part of the voyage the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> +Manchurian shore presents the most +striking scenery. Many bold and picturesque +hills come down to the water’s +edge, clothed from top to toe in living +green, the graceful boles of the white birch, +the most abundant tree, gleaming like +pillars of silver against the dark background. +On the Siberian shore the banks +are less bold, but seem to present an endless +stretch of rich bottom lands, where the +cattle of the world might graze.</p> + +<p>One important and interesting feature +on all Amour River boats is the constant +heaving of the lead, to tell of the treacherous +shoals which, all up and down the +length of the river, lie in wait for every +passing steamer. Constantly, day and +night, week in and week out, stands a +man near the bow with a stick about ten +feet long, loaded at the lower end. To +the upper end of this pole a cord is attached, +which is tied to the leadsman’s +wrist, and this pole he constantly casts, +once a minute on the average, to ascertain +the depth of the water. The pole is +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span> +divided into foot lengths, each painted a +different color, so that he can tell at a +glance how much water there is when the +leaded end strikes bottom. When the +water is deeper than his pole, he gives +no warning cry, but when it comes down +to nine, eight, seven, six feet, he calls out +the depth with every cast, to the man at +the wheel, and throughout half the day +and half the night we hear his monotonous +sing-song: “shest” (six), “shest polovina” +(six and one-half), “pyat” (five), +“pyat polovina” (five and one-half). When +the leadsman calls out “pyat,” O helmsman, +look out, for there is only five feet of +water below your water-line, and when he +calls out “chiteery polovina,” ring “half-speed” +down to the engine-room, for there +is only four feet and a half of water, and +the <i>Baron Korff</i>, flat bottomed as she is, +draws four feet.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="p0701_ill" style="max-width: 75.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0701_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A THUNDER-STORM BY NIGHT ON THE AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>These frequent shoals add a spice of +excitement to the voyage, for one never +knows when he may hear the bottom grating +on the gravel, and find the steamer +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> +laid up for an hour or a day or a week on +a sand-bar. The Amour River, like certain +men, spreads itself out too thin, and +gains breadth at the expense of depth.</p> + +<p>The cry of the leadsman reminds one of +Mark Twain’s days on the Mississippi, +only they “mark dva,” and “tree,” and +“chiteery,” and “pyat,” instead of “mark +twain,” and “mark three,” and four, and +five. When will the genius of the Amour +come to the front? And when he comes +will he call himself “Dva” or “Pyat”?</p> + +<p>The second and third days on the <i>Baron +Korff</i> were much like the first—bright, +beautiful, rare days in early June. The +breath of the flowers came sweet and fresh +from either shore, as the steamer swept +from one side of the river to the other. No +grand scenery marked these early days +of the voyage, but much that was exceedingly +beautiful, with a quiet loveliness +all its own. The whole country has +a peculiarly finished and cultivated appearance +for such a wild and almost uninhabited +land. Though there are few +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> +settlements and fewer farms visible from +the steamer, there is little of the tangled +wildwood of our American forests. Much +of the country is open and treeless, and, +where trees abound, they grow in stately +ranks, with little undergrowth and no impenetrable +thickets.</p> + +<p>At night the helmsman steers by lights +set along the shore at advantageous points +and at a distance of a few hundred yards +from each other. These lights are like +kerosene street lamps, set on posts fifteen +or twenty feet high. Some of the lamps +are white and others red, and, though +their light is feeble, they afford points to +steer by, and boats are able to steam day +and night, except when stuck upon a +sand-bar.</p> + +<p>A familiar sight towards evening is the +lonely lamplighter in his little Rob Roy +canoe, the paddles flashing alternately on +either side in the evening sun. Often he +is the only inhabitant along the shore for +miles and miles, and he must make his +solitary rounds alone day after day to fill +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> +and light his lamps, and is often obliged +to scale almost inaccessible precipices to +get at them, for, wherever it is possible, +the lamps are placed upon a bluff or headland.</p> + +<p>The voyager on the Amour has reason, +indeed, to bless the lonely lamplighter, and +to say to himself, as the steamer ploughs +along through the darkness, guided by +the minute points of light in the distance: +“How far the little candle throws its +beams!”</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="VII"> + VII + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>BETWEEN TWO GREAT NATIONS</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>For three days longer we continued +to steam on the <i>Baron Korff</i> between +China and Russia. On the +third day out from Khabaroffsk the scenery +grows more charming with every mile. +The Amour here passes through a cleft in +a spur of the Khingan Mountains, which +close in on her on both the Manchurian +and Siberian sides. The hills here are +not very high, perhaps not more than five +hundred feet, but their sides are often precipitous +and present a sheer wall of rock +to the view, through which it forces its +way with many a swirl and eddy and with +tremendous force of current, against which +our good ship could make but slow headway.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp47" id="p0741_ill" style="max-width: 73.5625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0741_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + ON THE BANKS OF THE AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>We here remarked again the peculiar +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> +open, park-like effect of the forests, especially +on the Manchurian side. I could +scarcely believe that these trees in these +far Eastern wilds had not been planted by +man, and that they did not indicate some +great baronial estate, whose castle, to be +sure, was hidden behind the hills. Some +beautiful hill slopes were covered with +stately white birches, without a sign of +underbrush, but with green grass forming +a soft carpet beneath. In other places +trees with black boles took the place of +the white birch, but they were at such a +distance that I could not determine the +species, though they looked like oaks. +For miles and miles these natural parks +continued, and even where the park-like +effect was not so pronounced and beautiful, +the lovely open character of the forest +continued, for nearly the whole of our +fifteen hundred miles on the Amour. The +cause of this beautiful effect I do not know. +Perhaps in the severe Siberian winters +only the fittest survive. The small wood, +vines, and parasites of all kinds are killed +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> +off by the cold, and only the hardier and +stronger trees remain. Whatever the cause, +the resultant parks make the banks of +the Amour singularly attractive during +the brief summer.</p> + +<p>The approach to a village was a matter +of much interest, both to those on ship +and those on shore. When within a +quarter of a mile the captain would blow +a tremendous blast on the whistle to +summon every man, woman, and child +to the banks. They would all respond +with promptness and despatch, and come +streaming down the bluff to the shore, +each woman hugging two or three bottles +of milk or carrying a pail of butter or a +basket of eggs or a bowl of sour cream +or a great loaf of black bread, with a hole +in the middle like a huge doughnut. +Sometimes a woman would appear holding +a large goose in her arms as tenderly +as though it were a baby, the body of the +goose being concealed in the blouse that +covered her ample bosom, while its long +neck craned out, exhibiting as much interest +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> +in the passing show as any one on +the shore.</p> + +<p>The passengers on the ship would all +congregate on the upper deck, many of +them with empty bottles in their hands, +to exchange, with ten kopeks added, for +the full bottles on the shore. There are, +of course, no docks or piers at these +villages along the Amour, and to make +fast to the shore in this swift and shallow +water is a work of time and patience. +First the anchor is thrown out about a +hundred yards from the shore, and cable +enough is paid out to allow the boat +to drift within twenty feet of the bank. +Then a bowline is carried ashore in the +ship’s boat and made fast to a tree or a +post. A stern line is treated in the same +way, and by this time the steamer is near +enough for the long gangplanks to be +pulled ashore. A wooden horse is put +underneath to steady them, and then the +eager passengers stream ashore, and there +is, for a time, a lively barter in milk and +eggs and curd cheese and black bread, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> +until the market is exhausted or the passengers’ +wants satisfied.</p> + +<p>The villages on the Amour all have a +striking family resemblance, and usually +consist of one or two streets of log-houses, +often chinked with moss, one or two stores +of general merchandise, and, if the village +is of any size, a handsome Greek church, +and a triumphal arch to indicate that the +czarewitch, in his famous journey to the +far East, stopped there. Sometimes the +arch is anything but majestic in its proportions, +a mere pitiful little affair of unpainted +wood, ten feet high, but it indicates +the loyalty of the Siberians and +their love for their “Little Father” just +as well as though it was a magnificent +and imposing work of art. The larger +towns, like Vladivostock, Khabaroffsk, +and Blagavestchensk, all have lofty and +imposing arches, blazing with colors or +shining with burnished copper, as becomes +the larger and wealthier municipalities.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0781_ill" style="max-width: 113.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0781_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SOME OF OUR FELLOW-TRAVELLERS. SIBERIAN EMIGRANTS ON THE AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Just at nightfall on the third day out +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> +we passed a Chinese village on the Manchurian +shore, called into being by some +rich gold-mines in the vicinity. It is +only placer-mining that has yet been attempted, +and the quartz awaits the enterprise +and the machinery of the Western +nations.</p> + +<p>On the fourth day we passed the Chinese +town of Aigun, a city of forty thousand +inhabitants, and noted, as I have before +said, as the place where the treaty +was signed in 1868 which gave all eastern +Siberia to Russia.</p> + +<p>These places, even from the steamer’s +deck, mellowed and sweetened as they +were by distance, looked dirty and wretched +and squalid, and showed none of the +thrift, neatness, and prosperity of the +towns on the Russian side. These were +the only Chinese towns that border the +Amour for a thousand miles from Khabaroffsk. +Besides them we scarcely saw +a hut or a wood-pile in Manchuria. Here +are vast stretches of virgin soil, rich and +productive, millions of acres of noble +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> +forest, great park-like estates, laid out +by nature, without a single inhabitant. +Yet there are uncounted millions of Celestials +huddled together in hundreds +of cities and thousands of reeking villages +in China, who need this sweet air +and the wide freedom of these Manchurian +fields, which for centuries have belonged +to the “Middle Kingdom.” That +the Chinaman has not occupied his own +domain is the more remarkable, for he is +in a way an enterprising individual and +often leaves home to seek “fresh fields +and pastures new.” He finds his home +in America and Australia, in the Sandwich +Islands and Manila, in the Straits +Settlement and Colombo, in Japan and +Corea—even across the Amour into Russian +territory he has wandered in large +numbers, while much of his own country +is still a wilderness. I suppose the fact is +that the Chinaman knows a good thing +in the way of a stable and just government +when he sees it, as well as the rest of mankind, +and that he does not propose to develop +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span> +a country where he will be robbed +and pillaged under the form of law, and +the fruits of his toil taken away from him +as soon as they are ripe.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0801_ill" style="max-width: 114.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0801_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SOME OTHER FELLOW-PASSENGERS. RUSSIAN OFFICERS AND THEIR FAMILIES + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Almost every day our steamer had to +take on a fresh supply of wood, for she +had a vast appetite for birch and pine. +Fortunately there was enough to satisfy +the most voracious of furnaces. When +wooding-up time came at night, it was a +most picturesque sight. Two great flares +would be built of large logs on either side +of the gangplank, a cord of the best wood +being piled on at one time to light up the +scene. Then the roustabouts from the +steamer would tumble ashore, each with +a long, stout pole and a strap to go over +his shoulders. Two roustabouts, working +in partnership, would then lay down their +poles and pile the heavy sticks upon them +till they had as much as they could carry. +Then, hitching the straps over their +shoulders, they would hoist their load hip +high and rush it on board. The banks +down which they had to carry the wood +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span> +were often steep and slippery, and the +gangplank was long and unsteady, and +there was many a slip and a spill between +the wood-pile and the steamer’s hold. But +these minor accidents made the scene all +the more interesting from the passengers’ +point of view. How the roustabouts +looked at the matter I cannot tell. At +any rate, they good-naturedly made the +best of it, without any profanity that English +ears could understand, picked up +themselves and their wood, and started +on again.</p> + +<p>The fourth and fifth days on the Amour +were cold and rainy, but we comforted +ourselves for the discomfort of the weather +by remembering that the rain would raise +the river, which was exceptionally low, +and perhaps enable the <i>Baron Korff</i> to +reach Blagavestchensk.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp48" id="p0821_ill" style="max-width: 75.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0821_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A TRIUMPHAL ARCH IN HONOR OF THE CZAREWITCH’S + JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>On the afternoon of the fourth day we +reached a little village, which consisted +mostly of wood-pile, and here the wait +continued hour after hour. No one knew +the cause of the delay, and the Russian +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span> +of none of the foreign passengers was +equal to the strain of finding out. At +last it was rumored that the <i>Baron Korff</i> +could go no farther, and that we must +wait for a boat of lighter draught to +take us up to Blagavestchensk. After +several hours, two other steamers came +sweeping down the river, and brought up +with a graceful curve and flourish, like +a stage-coach in the olden times, at our +anchorage. They were little boats, +cramped and dirty as compared with the +<i>Baron Korff</i>, and many were the groans +of the passengers that the change must +be made. But low water is no respecter +of persons, and we were told that at four +o’clock in the morning we must make the +transfer. At midnight, however, the captain +changed his mind and concluded to +scrape through if he could, so, getting up +steam, at two o’clock he started. The +critical shallows were reached. The +<i>Baron</i> scraped and grated on the sandy +bottom. A half inch less of water and +she would have been stranded, perhaps +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span> +for a day. But the captain whistled down +the speaking-tube for full speed ahead, the +engineer opened the throttle-valve, the engine +responded, and, with a mighty shove +and jerk, our great leviathan pushed herself +over the shallows and into the deeper +water beyond. It was a “close call,” but +on the Amour, as elsewhere, an inch is as +good as an ell.</p> + +<p>About eight o’clock in the evening, +precisely five days after leaving Khabaroffsk, +the beautiful spires of the great +churches of Blagavestchensk appeared +in sight above the tree-tops, and, sweeping +around a bend in the river and heading +due north, we were soon alongside +the bustling wharf of the metropolis of +eastern Siberia. In these five days from +Khabaroffsk we had journeyed nine hundred +and eighteen versts, or about six +hundred miles, having made an average +of less than five miles an hour, which is +about the average rate of speed on the +Amour River when there are no extraordinary +delays. Here ended the first stage +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> +of our river journey, for now we must wait +two days and then change to a smaller +steamer that can more easily scrape over +the shallows that are before us on the +upper reaches of the river.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span></p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0841_ill" style="max-width: 115.875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0841_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A MODEST TRIUMPHAL ARCH AT A LITTLE SIBERIAN VILLAGE + </figcaption> +</figure> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="VIII"> + VIII + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>A SIBERIAN CAPITAL</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Blagavestchensk, a mouthful +of a name for any one but a Russian, +is a surprising city to be found +in the heart of the wild woods of eastern +Siberia.</p> + +<p>Almost immediately after our departure +it was besieged by the Chinese and +became well known the world around as +one of the storm-centres of the Yellow +Tempest. But I must confess that my +knowledge of geography was so defective +that I had scarcely heard the name of +this city three weeks before I saw it.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp48" id="p0861_ill" style="max-width: 75.375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0861_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + “EACH WOMAN HUGGING TWO OR THREE BOTTLES OF MILK” + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Had I been particularly conceited on +this point, my geographical pride would +have received a severe blow, for here is +the natural metropolis of a vast section, +as large as all New England, with New +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span> +York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey +thrown in. Here is a city of nearly +40,000 inhabitants, with wide streets, as +fine blocks for its leading banks and +stores as Portland, Maine, or Portland, +Oregon, could show, or any of the smaller +cities of the Union; very comfortable +hotels, and at least five really fine +churches.</p> + +<p>The glories of Blagavestchensk, moreover, +are not in the past by any means, +but largely in the future, as is evidenced +by the amount of new building going on. +Piles of brick, masons and hod-carriers, +and carpenters and stone-cutters, are +seen everywhere, busy at their trades, +and it is evident that Blagavestchensk +is preparing for the time when the Siberian +Railway will be completed from Stretinsk +to Khabaroffsk, and still further add +to her importance as the chief city on the +Amour—indeed, the chief city between +Lake Baikal and the Pacific.</p> + +<p>We did not have time, however, to make +these observations on the evening of our +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> +arrival, for before the <i>Baron Korff</i> was +made fast it was half-past nine o’clock, +and nearly dark. Having heard of the +Central Hotel, and knowing not whether +it was good, bad, or indifferent, we directed +the drosky man to drive thither, +which he did, and soon set us down in +front of a large brick building of imposing +dimensions. But here our troubles began. +No office could be discovered. No +one seemed to be in charge. The register +which hung in the front hall—a large +blackboard with the numbers of the rooms +written in chalk—indicated that every +room, with one exception, was full. At +last a peasant, in Russian blouse and top-boots, +appeared who seemed to belong to +the establishment; but, alas! he spoke +a word of naught but Russian. To polyglot +inquiries: “Do you speak English?” +“Sprechen Sie Deutsch?” “Parlez-vous +français?” he responded with a “nyet,” +and a helpless shake of the head. At +length his instinct, or our bad Russian, +enabled him to understand that we wished +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span> +lodgings for the night, and he showed us +to a large room with a single narrow bed, +a sofa, and some chairs.</p> + +<p>But there were four in this particular +party that sought the shelter of the Central +Hotel—two ladies, a small boy, and a +man. It was evident that all could not +be accommodated in these limited quarters. +What could be done about it? All +the other hotels were crowded. It was +ten o’clock at night, and we were on the +sidewalk outside of this thoroughly Russian +hotel, with our baggage unloaded +from the tarantass. At this opportune +moment our good genius came to our rescue +in the shape of a young Russian +lieutenant who spoke French, and who +insisted on my sharing his room with +him, so that the ladies and the small boy +might have the only vacant room. Moreover, +he acted as translator, asked for +another bed, arranged prices, and in every +possible way became our guide, interpreter, +and friend. I shared his room for +two days, and when I tried to pay for my +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> +part of it he absolutely refused, saying, +with the utmost delicacy, but with firm +insistence: “I could not think of it. You +are my guest.”</p> + +<p>Would such graceful and delicate hospitality +be found in New York, or Chicago, +or London? I very much doubt +it, or whether the average American, or +even the exceptional American, would +have taken a foreigner into his room, +and, for a couple of days, concerned himself +for the welfare of a party of absolute +strangers.</p> + +<p>Our good angel in military clothes had +recently graduated at the Russian West +Point, and had been stationed at Nikolskoie, +on the Siberian frontier. He was +on his way to visit his mother at St. Petersburg, +and thence to the Paris Exposition. +As I expected to travel farther +with him, I neglected to learn his name. +But he was detained at the last moment, +and I shall not be able to send him my +acknowledgment of his kindness by post, +and I can scarcely hope that he will read +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> +them in this account of our travels. What +I think will please him most, however, +could he but see it in print, I will record +here, that such kindness and delicate +consideration I believe to be characteristic +of the great people of whom he is +such a worthy representative.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0901_ill" style="max-width: 125.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0901_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE LEADING HOTEL, BLAGAVESTCHENSK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>While we are still at the hotel, it may +give some idea of Siberian hostelries of +the better class if I say that the rooms +at the Central were large and comfortably +furnished, but there were some peculiarities +which strike a traveller as odd. +A bed with a mattress upon it is provided, +but no blankets, sheets, or pillows. A +common wash-room, not over tidy, served +all the guests, and such a thing as a bath-tub +or a bath-room seemed unknown. +Every guest is expected to bring his own +bedding, towels, and soap. Not knowing +this, we naturally asked for sheets +and blankets and pillows and towels, +which, after some delay, were brought, +though only one sheet, blanket, and pillow +apparently could be raised.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span></p> + +<p>What was my surprise to have a lengthy +bill brought when I came to leave, for I +was conscious of having had but few +“extras.” When I inquired for a translation +of the items, the waiter pointed to +the different articles ordered the night +before, and then to the cabalistic words +upon the bill, and I learned that the charge +was: Blanket, 25 kopeks; sheet, 20 kopeks; +pillow, 30 kopeks; towel, 15 kopeks. +No wonder the bill was a long, +if not a large, one. The room itself was +only two roubles and a half, or one dollar +and a quarter, for a large double room, +and the <i lang="fr">table d’hôte</i> meals, which consisted +of soup, meat, dessert, and tea, cost 80 +kopeks (40 cents). Breakfast was served +in our rooms, and normally consisted of +tea made on the spot in a porcelain teapot, +with water boiling hot from the samovar, +very nice and refreshing, with lemon +as a substitute for milk, and bread-and-butter. +We did not attempt the coffee, +which is not the national drink, and +does not compare with the tea. On tea +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span> +and bread-and-butter the Russian would +be sure to break his fast, though eggs +might be had by the Outlander, if he +should insist upon it.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp48" id="p0921_ill" style="max-width: 73.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0921_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE CEMETERY AT BLAGAVESTCHENSK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>It so happened that the day after our +arrival at Blagavestchensk was the emperor’s +birthday, and all the city was in +holiday mood. But it seemed to take its +pleasure seriously, if not sadly, as the +English are said to do. A few flags were +flying, the churches were open, and the +stores were closed, and a general air of +solemnity pervaded the town. The great +German store of Kunst & Albers was religiously +closed in front and the curtains +drawn, but I was told that it had a back +door, like the saloons in Maine. As my +conscience did not compel me to observe +the emperor’s birthday sacredly, I sought +the side entrance, where I made some necessary +purchases.</p> + +<p>I may mention for the benefit of future +travellers that many of the necessaries of +life cost about the same in eastern Siberia +as in New York—linen collars two dollars +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span> +a dozen, cuffs twice that sum, shirts, underclothing, +and other dry goods in like proportion. +Two of the stores in Blagavestchensk, +Kunst & Albers and a Russian +store nearly opposite, are really palatial +in proportions and equipment. The department +store has blossomed out in full +proportions in Siberia, and it is far more +surprising to find such a store as I have +mentioned in Blagavestchensk than to +find Wanamaker’s, in Philadelphia, or +Jordan & Marsh, in Boston.</p> + +<p>Here you find books and bric-à-brac, +pipes and pickles, flowers and flat-irons, +oil and oysters, waistcoats and watches, +indigo and icons. Here were attentive +clerks and cash-boys (Chinese cash-boys, +by-the-way), cashier girls in their little +elevated desks, receiving the money, and +all the conveniences and appliances of the +great modern establishments.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp52" id="p0941_ill" style="max-width: 75.375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0941_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + ONE OF BLAGAVESTCHENSK’S BEAUTIFUL CHURCHES + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>But the chief interest in Blagavestchensk +centred in the churches on the +day of our visit, especially in the blue +and green military church. Here a high +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> +mass was held in honor of the emperor. +The church was crowded with soldiers +and peasants, and all were most devout +and earnest. Old peasants would +come in, and, though there was scarcely +standing room, would spread down their +bandannas, and, kneeling on them, would +touch their grizzled forelocks to the floor, +and then rise and join heartily in the service. +This was conducted chiefly by a +priest in beautiful robes of cloth of gold, +whose magnificent bass voice chanted the +service as I never heard it rendered before. +A sweet-voiced choir of boys answered the +priest, and the whole congregation joined +reverentially, but in stentorian tones, in +part of the service. Behind the altar and +facing the officiating priest, whose back +was to the audience, stood a figure clad, +apparently, in pure gold, and with a golden +mitre upon its head. Whether man or +image I could not at first make out. But +it stood so immovable, and was apparently +so solidly built of gold, that I concluded +it was an image, a huge icon, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> +which did duty in the soldiers’ church. I +thought that I detected the image solemnly +winking, but the moment after I +concluded that I was the victim of an +optical illusion. Nothing so stately, solemn, +and immovable could wink. It was +almost sacrilegious to think of such a +thing. But when I had fully made up +my mind to the icon theory, the golden +image stepped from behind the altar, and, +coming to the front, an attendant took +off his heavy mitre, and in a deep, rich +voice, he intoned the part of the service +that fell to his share.</p> + +<p>Bowing to the cross, his golden garments +wrinkled and bent like the scales +of a fish, or like the chain-armor of an +ancient knight whose corselet was of pure +gold. Never have I seen in any church +or temple, in Christendom or pagandom, +such gorgeous vestments or a more stately +service. I only hope that it was as intelligently +devout as it was gorgeous and +impressive.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0961_ill" style="max-width: 125.0em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0961_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A GREAT DEPARTMENT STORE IN BLAGAVESTCHENSK, WITH MARKET-PLACE IN FRONT + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Some of the Greek priests, whose writings +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> +I have read, like Father John, of +Kronstadt, are as deeply imbued with the +Spirit of God as Thomas à Kempis or +John Tauler of old, or as Andrew Murray +and F. B. Meyer of the present day. A +fine, sweet, mystical vein runs through +their writings, which shows that they +have seen the Invisible and heard the +Inaudible, and their writings are as refreshing +as a draught of clear spring +water in this thirsty commercial age.</p> + +<p>So may it have been with the holy +fathers of Blagavestchensk! I could not +judge, for all their service was to me in +an unknown tongue. I will give them +the full benefit of the doubt.</p> + +<p>The streets of Blagavestchensk on this +holiday were full of soldiers, who marched +in orderly file from their barracks to the +church and back again. They were fine, +stalwart, manly fellows, marching in perfect +alignment, and with an easy swing +which did one’s eyes good to see, after +beholding for a few weeks the slouchy +straggle of Chinese soldiers. They were +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span> +an orderly, well-behaved lot, too, and I +saw no rioting or drunkenness. The log-cabin +which served as a soldiers’ guard-house +seemed to have few occupants. +The soldiers did not know how soon their +holiday manners would be changed into +grim and deadly warfare with the yellow +men on the opposite bank of the Amour.</p> + +<p>Blagavestchensk, though it has a few +large and imposing buildings, is largely +a log-built city. Nine-tenths of the houses +are of hewn logs, but most of them are +prettily painted and are not without appropriate +ornamentation. I never had believed +that a log-house city could be so +picturesque and substantial in appearance.</p> + +<p>Upon the churches the people have lavished +their chief wealth. At least three +of them are costly and beautiful buildings +that would do honor to any European +capital, and a fourth that is building +will, when completed, surpass them +all. It is really a building of remarkable +stateliness and beauty.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p0981_ill" style="max-width: 125.1875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p0981_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + <p>AN UPPER AMOUR RIVER STEAMER</p> + <p>Buriats’ hut in foreground</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span></p> + +<p>In the cathedral I saw for the first time +the Black Christ and the Black Virgin, +which are often seen in Greek churches. +The pictures in all the churches impressed +me as a much higher grade of art than +one sees in the ordinary church on the +continent of Europe.</p> + +<p>When we were in Blagavestchensk we +had little thought that this obscure capital +was so soon to figure in the world’s +telegrams, or that it could be besieged +and bombarded by the Chinese. But history +in the far East was making itself rapidly +about that time, and we had scarcely +left Blagavestchensk a week behind, when +the apparently peaceful Celestials, inspired +from Peking, attacked and for a long time +bombarded this inoffensive city.</p> + +<p>As I write, the outcome of the immediate +conflict is still in the balance, but it +can scarcely be doubted that in the long +run the Giant of the North will win his +way through Siberia and Manchuria into +the heart of China, and that the siege of +Blagavestchensk will really hasten the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> +awakening of China from her sleep of the +ages.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the second day, we +were glad to take passage once more for +the upper reaches of the Amour, the most +difficult, uncertain, and tedious part of +our journey.</p> + +<p>“<em>If you have tears, prepare to shed them +now</em>” might have been our motto as we +went aboard the crowded little steamer +and realized that Stretinsk, the terminus +of our river journey, was 1197¼ versts +away, and that, much of the way, less +than four feet of water separated our keel +from the sandy bottom of the Amour. +But how we scraped over the sand-banks +from Blagavestchensk to Stretinsk must +be reserved for “another story.”</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1001_ill" style="max-width: 118.0625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1001_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + ON THE UPPER AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="IX"> + IX + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>AGROUND IN THE AMOUR</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Two Mississippi River captains were +once conversing as to the merits of +their respective steamers as light-draught +boats. One claimed that his +steamer could run in a good heavy dew. +The other, not to be outdone, claimed that +that was nothing, for his boat could run +on the sweat of an ice-pitcher. It is this +latter kind of boat that is needed on the +upper reaches of the Amour River, as we +began to think before we were many +miles from Blagavestchensk. We had +scarcely gone five miles before we heard +that peculiar crunching, scraping, gritty +sound which we came to know so well. +The paddle-wheels revolved fruitlessly +for a few minutes, but it was no use, and +we knew that we were hard and fast +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> +aground in less than three feet of water. +For hours the boatmen worked with might +and main, and at last we could feel that +there was water under our keel and that +we were making slow progress against +the current once more. But we had +scarcely been moving another hour when +c-r-u-n-c-h, s-c-r-a-p-e, s-t-o-p, and there +we were stuck on another sand-bank. +The captain seemed to tear his hair in +despair, and well he might, for Stretinsk +was 1187 versts away, and we had scarcely +come ten versts in ten hours from Blagavestchensk. +If it requires ten hours +to do ten versts, how long will it take +to reach Stretinsk, was an appalling problem +in mental arithmetic.</p> + +<p>However, we made somewhat better +progress after getting off the second time, +and the hope that springs eternal in the +human breast kept us from despair of +reaching in time the important engagement +at our journey’s end.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1021_ill" style="max-width: 118.5625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1021_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + TUMBLING ASHORE FROM THE <i>ADMIRAL CHICACHOFF</i> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The <i>Ivan Vishnegradskie</i> was a much +smaller steamer than the <i>Baron Korff</i>, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span> +and consequently much more crowded. +Especially were the third-class passengers +much in evidence, for there were no +steerage accommodations, and they were +obliged to lie about anywhere as best they +could, in the passages, on the companion-way, +huddled on the boiler deck, lying +out on the wood-pile or anchor chains; +every available foot of deck room had its +two human feet to occupy it.</p> + +<p>It is said that the birth-rate of Siberia +is higher than any other country in the +world, amounting to fifty-six in the thousand. +I could well believe it as I saw +the uncounted, tow-headed babies tucked +into every nook and cranny of the <i>Ivan +Vishnegradskie</i>. Head to heel and heel +to head, they lay, with their fathers and +mothers and older brothers and sisters +lying about them four square, building, +as it were, a sort of living rampart +around the family compound. It was +pathetic to see a mother lay her three +little children out in a row, with the croupy +baby in the middle, while she herself sat +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span> +in the draughty doorway all night long +to shield them from the wind.</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“She bared her bosom to the storm,</div> + <div class="verse indent0">And smiled to think her babe was warm.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p>For two days we sailed on this crowded +little craft. The river turns almost due +north after leaving Blagavestchensk. A +very tortuous stream is the Amour from +here on, turning and twisting and doubling +on itself like a huge serpent writhing +in agony. Following its twistings we +made very little progress, even when we +could steam all day long, which the treacherous +shoals did not often allow us to do. +The shores on either side were often picturesque +and beautiful, and sometimes +grand and striking, with bare cliffs of +rock rising sheer from the water’s edge +to a height of four or five hundred feet.</p> + +<p>The park-like effect of the clean, open +woods continued, and made it difficult +to believe that the country had not been +thickly inhabited for a thousand years, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span> +except that the utter absence of habitations +dispelled the illusion.</p> + +<p>On the second day out from Blagavestchensk +we were obliged to change steamers +and take up our abode in the <i>Admiral +Chicachoff</i>, the regular steamer of this +line, which had not been able to get so +far down the river as the above-named +city. The <i>Admiral</i> was a somewhat +larger boat than the <i>Ivan</i>, and had much +better accommodations for the steerage +passengers, who no longer had to sleep +in doorways and draughty passages, but +had the after upper deck roofed over for +their accommodation. The steamers of +the line on which we were embarked carried +the government mail, and were supposed +to be more sure of reaching their destination +than the other river-steamers, of +which there are many lines on the Amour.</p> + +<p>Frequently we passed other steamers +going down with the current at a famous +rate of speed compared with our slow and +toilsome ascent of the river. More often +we passed great rafts of timber, with little +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> +bark huts built upon them, in which families +lived and moved and had their being +for weeks and perhaps months at a +time, as they let the force of the current +carry them down the stream, and tied up +to the bank at night to avoid the passing +steamers. Sometimes the rafts would be +loaded with horses that seemed to enjoy +their floating quarters, and who lived off +the country, for it was only necessary to +tie the raft to the shore and drive its living +freight into the rich pasturage, which +in many places could be obtained free, +gratis, for nothing.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1061_ill" style="max-width: 114.8125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1061_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + CHILDREN OF EMIGRANTS PICKING WILD FLOWERS ON THE BANKS OF THE AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>The monotony of the voyage was varied +by a stop once or twice every twenty-four +hours to take on wood, or at some little +log village on the river’s margin. On the +occasion of these stops the passengers +would tumble ashore almost before the +gangplank made connections, and would +spend the time as the fancy seized them, +in the woods or on the pebbly margin of +the river. The youngsters would scale +the bluffs, which usually abounded near +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span> +the wood-piles, or would come back from +the meadows laden with great armfuls of +beautiful wild flowers. Lilies of the valley +seemed to abound everywhere, violets, +blue and white forget-me-nots, lady slippers, +and another beautiful orchid somewhat +similar, which I have never seen +elsewhere. In other places, blue honeysuckles +were found, and yellow lilies, and +Solomon’s seal, and the yellowest of buttercups. +Indeed, the flora of the country +seemed to be exceedingly extensive, embracing +most of the spring flowers with +which I am familiar in New England, except +the arbutus, and many flowers that +I had never seen before. The trees were +mostly white and yellow birch, poplar, +white oak, soft maple, larch, and pine. +The wood-piles, cut for the use of the river +steamers, were interminable, and consisted +of beautiful, straight, knotless sticks +of birch and pine that it seemed a pity +to sacrifice in the rapacious maw of our +never-satisfied boilers, to go up in smoke +and sparks.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span></p> + +<p>While the smaller fry were racing on +the shore or gathering wild flowers, their +more sedate elders among the steerage +passengers would kindle a little fire of +driftwood on the shore and cook a savory +pot of stew to vary the crude monotony of +their daily fare. Or the forethoughtful +mothers would improve the opportunity to +scrub their offspring or wash their clothes, +pounding the latter upon the stones. +Sometimes we would get a delicious bath +in the clear, cold water which, less than a +month ago, was bound with icy fetters, +for the weather, much of the time, was extremely +warm. The summers of Siberia +are short and fiercely hot. Vegetation has +to be forced to maturity by Dame Nature +in six weeks, instead of taking six +months, as she would do in more leisurely +climes.</p> + +<p>Many patches of snow and ice still lingered +upon the banks, and it could have +been comparatively but few days since all +the country was snow-bound. Yet every +tree seemed to be in full leaf, and ferns +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span> +and grasses in many places were knee-high +and were growing with the lustiness +and vigor of a tropical summer.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1081_ill" style="max-width: 110.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1081_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + AN EMIGRANT HOUSE ON THE UPPER AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Our new steamer was no more exempt +from the prosaic perils of the sand-bar +than the one we had just left, for, before +we had finished the first day we had run +hard aground in a place where the current +was very swift, and where it was very +difficult to get off. For seventeen hours +our officers and crew worked with a will, +but to no effect. First huge poles, like +iron-shod battering-rams, as big as telegraph +poles, which could barely be lifted +by six men, were hitched to the windlass +by a wire rope, and, with this, every +effort was made to pry us off. But all +utterly failed. Then two telegraph poles +were rigged, and finally three, but all in +vain. In the useless effort, three or four +of these huge pries were broken off short, +and yet the little steamer did not budge. +Then, to lighten ship, the convict barge, +which all these days had been following +in our wake, was towed alongside, and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> +all the passengers were requested to go +on board of her.</p> + +<p>This gave us an opportunity to visit +our fellow-passengers behind the bars, +if I may so call those who were propelled +by the same steam and were hitched to +us by a single cable. It must be confessed +that they were not bad-looking fellows +as men average, and the impartial visitor, +had he been asked to pick out the convicts +by their looks, would, very likely, +have chosen the hardened criminals from +among the free men on top of the barge, +instead of from among those whom the +law had put into the cage below. Possibly +even some of the first-class passengers +who had paid thirty roubles for their +voyage would have been chosen, instead +of those who had fare and board paid +by the government. My idea of the +severity with which Russia treats her +Siberian exiles was also modified when +I saw the clean and comparatively comfortable +quarters of the prisoners, which +compared most favorably with the steerage +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> +accommodations on our own steamer. +There were not many prisoners in the +cage, and they were going from the +crowded prisons of Vladivostock or Khabaroffsk +to other prisons in the interior. +One poor fellow was landed at a little +river town, and in his heavy felt boots +and overcoat, though it was a broiling +day, was marched between two soldiers +to a new prison, or, perhaps, handed over +to some man who had bought his labor +for a time.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp46" id="p1101_ill" style="max-width: 76.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1101_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE MEN BEHIND THE BARS ON THE PRISON BARGE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>But we had gone aboard the convict +barge to lighten our ship, and not to +inspect the prisoners. It was all of no +avail, however, and some new method +must be tried. So an anchor was carried +out into mid-stream, two hundred yards +away, perhaps; the steam windlass was +again brought into play and, little by +little, inch by inch, we were coaxed off +the sand-bar, the flat bottom creaking +and groaning as the steamer scraped +along, as though unwilling to leave her +comfortable bed. Seventeen hours had +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span> +been wasted, and not a third of our voyage +had been accomplished.</p> + +<p>After this experience our captain was +very cautious, and when he came to +shallow places would anchor, and often +spent several hours in a small boat in +ascertaining the channel and marking it +with sticks driven into the sand. Then +the <i>Admiral</i> would start up slowly and +warily. Two men, one on either side +of the bow, with sounding-poles, would +constantly take the water and report to +the first officer of the deck above, who +shouted it back to the man at the wheel. +“Vosem” (eight), “sem” (seven), “shest” +(six), he would call, and no one would feel +anxious, for the <i>Admiral</i> only draws +two feet and a half; but when it came to +“pyat polovina” (five and one-half), to +“pyat” (five), or to “chiteery” (four), +we began to be interested.</p> + +<p>When, in stentorian tones, the leadsman +would call “trees polovina” (three +and one-half), and his mate on the other +side would call “trees,” and the first +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span> +officer would shout to the wheel, “trees,” +we would positively hold our breath, and +sit more lightly in our chairs to ease the +ship, until again the leadsman would reassuringly +cry “chiteery,” “pyat,” “shest,” +“sem,” and we would feel that we were +safely over one more bar.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="X"> + X + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>ON THE SHILKA</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>Our progress up the Amour was slow +but not sure. Time after time the +experience described in the last +chapter would be repeated. We would +touch bottom, scrape on the sand, the +engines would make desperate efforts +to pull us off into deep water, but would +finally give up in despair, slow down, +stop altogether, and for one hour, or ten, +or twenty, we must possess our souls in +patience, until, with infinite pains, our +craft was floated once more.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp50" id="p1141_ill" style="max-width: 74.8125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1141_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE HILL-SIDES WERE CARPETED WITH FLOWERS + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>We were told before starting that the +journey from Blagavestchensk to Stretinsk +would not take more than seven +days, or seven days and one-half; but +seven times twenty-four hours passed +and Stretinsk was still four hundred +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> +miles away, and not half the distance +had been traversed. The alarming tale +was circulated that the water was falling +at the rate of two inches a day. The +usual story about this being an extraordinary +season was current—“not for +thirteen years had the water been so +low,” etc. I am inclined to think that +every year on the Amour is “extraordinary,” +and that, especially in the month +of June, those who essay this journey +must count on spending as much time +on the sand-banks as in deep water.</p> + +<p>Still, for those who are in no haste to +reach their journey’s end, who can put +up with very indifferent food, and who +can good-naturedly accept the inevitable, +there are many and delightful compensations +in this new way around an +old world. The scenery throughout the +whole journey is pleasing, and, much +of the way, it is extremely beautiful. +A hundred miles beyond Blagavestchensk +we passed some remarkable high +bluffs, seamed with coal or lignite in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> +narrow, diagonal veins. In many places +this coal had caught fire, and for years +had been burning with an unquenchable +flame. The scene, as we passed, was +one of striking beauty. The sun was +just setting behind the western hills, +lighting up the evening clouds with golden +and crimson glory. The broad river +swept in a grand and graceful curve +around a pine-clad mountain that towered +a thousand feet above its placid waters, +while, as the light of the dying day waned, +glowing jewels appeared in the mountainside, +where the burning coal was afire, or +little bursts of flame, as from a hundred +gas-jets, lit up the gaunt and seamy cliff.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp48" id="p1161_ill" style="max-width: 73.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1161_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A TYPICAL WATER-TOWER ON THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Two days later, and a hundred miles +farther on, the same scene was repeated +with a still lovelier variation. Again +it was just at the hour of setting sun, +the most delicious of all the day, for the +boiling heat of the day was over, and +the cool breezes of evening had begun +to blow. On the Chinese shore of the +great river high cliffs like the Palisades +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> +of the Hudson stretched westward for +miles, with tops as even and flat as Table +Mountain at Cape Town. Here and there, +throughout their whole length, these +cliffs, too, were seamed and veined with +fire. Oftentimes green shrubs overhung +the seams of coal, or pine-trees grew +below them, their upper branches athwart +the narrow line of fire, so that again the +Scripture miracle seemed to be repeated, +and the burning bush was not consumed. +Imagine the Palisades on a wilder and +grander scale, illuminated by their own +internal fires, and you have an idea of +this night scene on the Amour.</p> + +<p>Seven days out from Blagavestchensk, +the day we should have completed our +river journey, we again stuck fast on a +sand-bar for nearly twenty hours. This +delay was all the more uncomfortable +on account of the extreme heat, unalleviated +by the breeze caused by the +boat’s motion, and the discomfort was +aggravated by innumerable huge green-headed +flies, larger than the biggest +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> +horse-fly I ever saw in America. These +flies showed all the idiosyncrasy of the +average house-fly in returning time after +time, with the utmost persistence, to the +same unguarded spot on ear, or nostril, +or back of neck, and, being about ten +times as large, their attentions were fully +ten times as unpleasant as those of the +house-fly.</p> + +<p>At length we rubbed our way, inch by +inch, over the shallows and into deeper +water, and an hour later found ourselves +at Albazin, a small and decayed village +four hundred miles from Blagavestchensk. +Albazin has no glories in the present, +but it is famous as the place where, two +hundred years ago, a Russian garrison +was defeated by the Chinese, and four +hundred prisoners carried off to Peking. +As a result of this victory a treaty of +peace was concluded, and the north bank +of the Amour again became Chinese +territory. The Great Bear of the North +is sometimes defeated and retreats to her +den, but it is only to nurse her wounds +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> +and to come out again, stronger than +ever, to win, either by arms or diplomacy, +perhaps two hundred years later, a new +victory which will wipe out old scores.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1181_ill" style="max-width: 125.5em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1181_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE LIGNITE CLIFFS ON THE AMOUR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Two hundred years have elapsed since +the Russian garrison was carried off to +Peking, but Albazin is again in Russian +territory, which stretches fifteen hundred +miles beyond to the very shores of the +Pacific, while Manchuria itself and China, +almost to the very gates of Peking, seem +likely soon to become Russian provinces.</p> + +<p>“That, too, is our country,” said a Russian +judge, one of our travelling companions, +as he pointed with a sweep of the +hand to the Manchurian shore. “That, +too, is our country.” And his was no +empty boast, even if a little premature.</p> + +<p>It is an interesting fact that the descendants +of the Russian garrison carried +from Albazin to Peking still live in the +Chinese capital. They married Chinese +wives, but organized a distinct community +of their own, in which the Greek Church +has flourished ever since.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span></p> + +<p>Ten miles from Albazin we stopped at +the larger and more flourishing town +of Renova, that owes its prosperity to +some large placer gold-mines, which, +like all Russian gold-mines, are a government +monopoly. All gold discovered and +dug must be sold to the government at a +price fixed by it below the market price. +Of course, much is smuggled out of the +country, and such a law is death to +genuine private enterprise; but the laws +are strict, and no foreigner is allowed to +filch the gold from the czar’s private +purse, <i>i.e.</i>, the bowels of the earth.</p> + +<p>The next day we reached the final +limit of travel on the <i>Admiral Chicachoff</i>. +She could go no farther, and we were +transferred to a great barge, not unlike +the prisoners’ cage which we had been +towing all this distance. This barge, +which for another week was to be our abiding-place, +drew only one foot and a half +of water, and was towed by a tug which +also drew but eighteen inches. On this +craft we were to enter the Shilka and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> +stem the current for three hundred miles +farther to Stretinsk.</p> + +<p>Each change we had made was a +descent. We had gone from luxury on +the <i>Baron Korff</i> through different grades +of discomfort, until we had come to the +superlative degree of discomfort on the +barge <i>Diana</i>.</p> + +<p>The men among the first-class passengers +were all herded together in one +cabin, and the women in another, and +the decks and passageways were so littered +with third-class passengers and their +belongings, that it was with great difficulty +that we could pick our way over +stout, extended legs, and tender baby toes, +and peasant women suckling still smaller +babies, who filled every nook and crevice. +Clad in great sheepskin garments,</p> + +<div class="poetry-container"> + <div class="poetry"> + <div class="stanza"> + <div class="verse indent0">“With the skinny side out and the woolly side in,”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='no-indent'>and with huge top-boots, worn often by +the women as well as the men, the Moujiks +defied the cold night air and the intensely +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span> +hot mid-day sun, always sprawled +out, day and night, at full length, except +when they went ashore at landing-places +to cook their scanty meals over a brushwood +fire.</p> + +<p>Of course, exercise under these circumstances +was out of the question on +shipboard, and, as can be imagined, we +all made the most of our stops at the +wood-piles for a little run on shore.</p> + +<p>Travel on Siberian rivers, like poverty +and politics, makes strange bedfellows, +and in the men’s cabin were a polyglot +company, consisting of a German baron, +a Swiss consul, a Dane, two French +“bounders,” two Russians, two Scotchmen, +a North of Ireland man, and two +Americans. All made the best of the +situation except the Frenchmen, who +sputtered and growled at everything, and +made themselves generally disagreeable. +Like Mrs. Gummidge, they seemed to +say of all the discomforts: “I feels it +more than others.” Especially did the +food, which indeed was atrocious, come +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span> +in for their objurgations. At last the +climax was reached when one of these +irascible Gauls found that sugar had +been put in his cabbage. His gastronomic +canons were all outraged, and, throwing +the cabbage, dish and all, out of the +window into the river, he flung a full +bottle of beer at the waiter, narrowly +missing a lady’s head, and only then +felt that his outraged culinary taste had +been fully avenged.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1221_ill" style="max-width: 115.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1221_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE EVER-PRESENT SAMOVAR + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>But for the most the company on the +<i>Diana</i> was a happy family, and though +a “Never Again Society” was proposed +(never again to cross Siberia by this +route), we often consoled ourselves with +the reflection that things “might be +worse.”</p> + +<p>On the second day after boarding the +barge the Amour, so far as we were concerned, +came to an end, or, rather, we came +to its abrupt beginning, for, at a junction +point of entrancing scenery, the Argun +and the Shilka, two great rivers, come +together to form the Amour, after having +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span> +pursued their separate and devious ways +for hundreds of miles. The Argun flows +sharply from south to north, the Shilka +pursues a northeasterly course. To be +sure, the Shilka is really the Amour, +and ought to bear the same name to its +source, but for boundary purposes the +Russians choose to call it another river, +and to bound their possessions by the +left branch of the Amour, called the +Argun. We turned into the Shilka and +were soon steaming against its swiftly +flowing current.</p> + +<p>Now, at length, after coasting along the +Manchurian shore for over a thousand +miles, we leave China and plunge into +the heart of Siberian Russia. On either +side the mountains close in on the Shilka, +dipping their feet in its rapid, crystal +stream, and narrowing it down to less +than a quarter of a mile in width. Wild +and picturesque is the scenery for almost +the whole distance to Stretinsk. The +fertile arable land and vast open parks +of the Amour give way to rough and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span> +rugged hill-sides, clad with a growth of +small trees, but affording scant encouragement +for the agriculturist. The villages +are fewer and farther between, and the +scanty houses are of a distinctly poorer +type. In fact, the whole country is given +up to placer gold-mining and to cutting +wood for the frequent steamers, and almost +no cultivation is attempted.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1241_ill" style="max-width: 115.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1241_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SOME FIFTH-CLASS PEOPLE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>It even became difficult, and at last +impossible, to secure milk and eggs on +shore, and some of the scanty fare provided +by the steamer’s steward might +have been called “rotten” by the college +boy without indulging in slang.</p> + +<p>But the natural scenery grew more +charming as the evidence of man’s handiwork +disappeared. The hill-sides were +carpeted with flowers; lilies of the valley, +azaleas, and a half-dozen kinds of rare +and beautiful orchids abounded everywhere, +and the air was fragrant with the +new-made leaves of birch and pine. +Cuckoos struck all hours of the day from +the deeper forest, and a sylvan beauty +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> +that I have rarely seen surpassed constantly +greeted our eyes.</p> + +<p>Frequently during these days on the +Shilka we passed great rafts, floating +down stream with the current, loaded +with emigrant families, men, women, +and children, horses, cattle, and dogs, +and all the little store of household goods +that the poor Moujiks possessed. Sometimes +a small bateau would contain a +family of seven or eight people and all +their belongings. Occasionally great +barges towed by a tug-boat would pass +us, and these were invariably crowded +with such a mass of humanity that one +wondered how all could stand by day, +much less lie down by night. These +crowded rafts and barges headed eastward +were most suggestive of Russia’s +policy. Hers is a peaceful conquest of +the far East. First she must fill up the +waste places of Siberia, and then she +can stretch out her hand over all Manchuria +and northern China, and even +in spite of temporary Mongolian uprisings +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span> +she can hold her own, with no fear +of a repetition of the disaster of Albazin, +and another exclusion for centuries from +Manchuria.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp47" id="p1261_ill" style="max-width: 76.1875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1261_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A RAFT ON THE SHILKA + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>With one barge company alone the government +has made a contract to transport +thirty thousand peasants within three +months to the lower waters of the Amour. +Thousands of others will find their way +by other methods of conveyance. Liberal +land laws and government aid while they +are getting established will result in a +few years in tens of thousands of log-house +homes that in time will make this +wilderness to blossom like the rose.</p> + +<p>As we approached Stretinsk signs of +civilization became more numerous. Cultivated +fields appeared. Winter wheat +already seemed to be ripening, forced to +maturity by a few weeks of the almost +continuous sunlight of this northern +clime. The interesting village of Oost +Kara, about seventy miles from Stretinsk, +lies on the right bank of the Shilka, and +is supported by extensive gold-mines, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> +which are worked by convicts—criminals, +not political prisoners, I am told.</p> + +<p>At length, on the 21st day of June, +thirteen days after leaving Blagavestchensk, +and twenty-one days after embarking +on the Amour at Khabaroffsk, +we were glad enough to bid good-bye +to the <i>Diana</i>, its crowded decks, and +its wretched fare, and still more glad to +feel that our long river voyage, which +had stretched itself out from the twelve +days which we had expected to twenty-one, +was at length at an end, and that +the rest of the journey would be behind +the iron horse on land, instead of his +aquatic cousin, the puffing steamboat.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="XI"> + XI + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>THE TRANS-BAIKAL</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>We had supposed, as has already +been remarked, that if we had +tears to shed, we should need +to indulge them on the last part of our +river journey. But we soon found that +we should have saved them all for the +journey on the Trans-Baikal Railway +between Stretinsk and Irkutsk, as the +sequel will show.</p> + +<p>Stretinsk is a raw, shabby, straggling +frontier town, whose only excuse for +being so uninteresting is that it is very +new and never thought of being a place +of any importance until it suddenly found +itself, on the 28th of December, 1899, +the terminus of the Trans-Baikal Railway, +and an important forwarding point +for freight and passengers between the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> +Atlantic and Pacific. The large railway +shops and engine-houses are situated +across the river from the town, which +is connected with them by a ferry, ingeniously +worked by the swift current +of the Shilka, like the picturesque ferry +at Bonn, on the Rhine. The hotels of +Stretinsk are wretched inns, and there +are absolutely no attractions within the +town to persuade the traveller to remain. +But, in justice even to the squalid raggedness +of Stretinsk, it must be admitted +that fine hills encircle it and a noble +river washes its feet, for the Shilka, in +spite of shoals and shallows, is still a +mighty stream, and runs even here with +a large, impetuous flow.</p> + +<p>We were glad enough to find that we +must remain in Stretinsk only thirty-six +hours, and that the train which was to +carry us to Lake Baikal was to start the +following night. We were still more rejoiced +to find that the good governor of +Vladivostock, General Tchitchagoff, had +not forgotten us, but had wired for a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> +special car for our use. The car was +very small, and held but five people, and, +as can be imagined, it was not built on +the latest Pullman plan, but, as compared +with the cars assigned to our three +hundred fellow-passengers, it was a <i lang="fr">car +de luxe</i>, indeed.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp45" id="p1301_ill" style="max-width: 76.5em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1301_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SIBERIAN RECRUITS BOUND FOR CHINA + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>This road is not yet officially opened for +traffic, and we were taken on sufferance, +as it were. At least, most of those who +take it have to suffer severely. Nor +can they complain overmuch, for the +government does not invite them to go or +advertise any attractions. The best cars +that are yet run, with the exception of +the little <i lang="fr">car de luxe</i>, of which I have +just spoken, are marked “fourth class,” +and are no better than they pretend to +be. They have wooden seats of the +hardest possible variety, and three wooden +shelves, one above another, afford +cramped opportunity for a man not more +than five feet long to stretch himself out. +Each of these cars, with three tiers of +shelves, is supposed to afford accommodations +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> +for forty-three people. But these +are the best, as I have said. Others, +which might be termed fifth class, if the +nomenclature of railway trains descended +so far, are simply box-cars, with no seats, +and marked on the outside, “to carry +twelve horses or forty-three men.” Into +these cars there crowded, helter-skelter, +pell-mell, higgledy-piggledy, Russians +and Siberians, Moujiks and Chinamen, +Tartars, Buriats and Englishmen, Frenchmen, +Germans, and Americans.</p> + +<p>If there were fifth-class cars, there +were plenty of sixth and seventh class +people—some in rags, and many in tags, +but few in velvet gowns. Old Moujiks, +with half a dozen half-naked children, +filthy with a grime that has accumulated +since their birth, and alive with unmentionable +parasites, crowded every car, or, +rather, human pigpen, as each car soon +becomes. Odors indescribably offensive +made the air thick and almost murky. +The stench, the dirt, the vermin grew +worse the longer the car was inhabited, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span> +and one simply resigned himself to the +inevitable and lived through each wearisome +hour as best he could.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1321_ill" style="max-width: 114.75em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1321_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FOR THIRTY-SIX MORTAL HOURS WE WAITED + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Our non-Russian fellow-passengers, +when they found the true state of affairs, +made a desperate resistance to their fate, +and after repeated remonstrances, objurgations, +and even threats, which nearly +came to blows, induced the station-master +to put on another little car, which they +could have for themselves.</p> + +<p>We fondly hoped that the governor’s +kindness had spared us the heaviest +affliction of the journey; but alas! even +the best-hearted governor cannot insure +all the bridges on the line, and we had +not been travelling a half-dozen hours +when we learned that a bridge had burned +down twenty miles ahead, owing to the +carelessness of a fireman who drew the +fire on the wooden sleepers, and there we +were stranded as fast as though on a +sand-bar on the Shilka.</p> + +<p>For thirty-six mortal hours we waited +at that wretched railway town, which consisted +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> +principally of a round-house and +a water-tower, then were pulled to the +burned bridge, twenty miles away, and, +with much difficulty and long delay, +were transferred to the train on the other +side. Here our good fortune deserted +us. Our comparatively fine car could +not, of course, cross the bridge, the governor +could do nothing more for us, and in +the general scramble we found ourselves +in one of those dreadful fourth-class +cars I have already described, with the +Moujiks, the filth, and the vermin destined +to be our companions for four weary +days and nights.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1341_ill" style="max-width: 116.0625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1341_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A TRANS-BAIKAL TRAIN. PRISONERS CARRYING WATER + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>After passing the burned bridge our +train met with no serious delay, though +our rate of progress was exceedingly +moderate. The whole distance to Irkutsk +is about seven hundred miles, +and we managed to consume three days +and a half of actual travel in covering it. +It would seem impossible to the uninitiated +in Siberian travel that a railway +train that could go at all could go so +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> +slowly. Two hundred miles a day, or +about eight miles an hour, is scarcely more +than post-horses would make. This is +accounted for by reason of the interminable, +unreasonable length of the stops at +the stations. Our train would draw up +at a wood-pile and a log-house. The +peasants would scramble out of the train, +build their fires, cook their soup, boil +their tea, and still the train would wait. +There was usually no baggage to be +taken on or put off, no passengers to +join us, no passing train to wait for. +Water would soon be taken, and still we +would wait, a half-hour, three-quarters, +a full hour. At last, for no particular +reason, apparently, the station-master +would ring a big dinner-bell. Five +minutes later he would ring another. +Then, soon after, the guard would blow +his whistle, the engineer would respond +with the engine whistle, the guard would +blow again, the engineer would answer +him once more, and, after this exchange +of compliments, the train would move +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> +leisurely along, only to repeat the process +two hours later at the next station.</p> + +<p>The stops ranged from half an hour +to two hours in length, and the speed +attained about fifteen miles an hour +while running. Fortunately the stations +are few and far between, averaging nearly +thirty miles apart.</p> + +<p>The only towns of any importance +on this line are Chita and Verkneydinsk, +the former about two hundred and the +latter about five hundred and fifty miles +from Stretinsk. Verkneydinsk is a centre +of the old caravan tea trade, and retains +its life in spite of the new railway.</p> + +<p>The Trans-Baikal province, which this +railway traverses from end to end, is +the smallest of the six provinces into +which Siberia is divided, and has about +six hundred thousand inhabitants, of +whom two hundred thousand belong to +the aboriginal tribes. Much of it seems +exceedingly fertile, and vast savannas, +stretching away from the railway track +as far as the eye can reach on either +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span> +side, are frequently seen during the early +part of the journey. Thousands of cattle +and horses roam on these great flat +prairies, which, often, are as level as a +house floor for miles. In other parts +of this journey the scenery is beautiful +and picturesque, but never grand, the +mountain range which is crossed being +not a lofty one. For many miles the +railway follows the winding of the Shilka +River, usually high above its banks. +Then it crosses the plains, and afterwards, +some four hundred miles from the starting +point, plunges among the pine-clad +hills which hem it in on both sides with +their resinous heights.</p> + +<p>In other parts of the hill beautiful +birches stand like white sentries in a +green livery. The flowers that carpet the +fields everywhere are lovely; marigolds +and marguerites, roses and blue honeysuckles, +buttercups galore, bold tiger-lilies, +modest lilies of the valley, and +white and yellow poppies make the trackside +gay.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span></p> + +<p>After traversing about half the distance, +the streams, which had been flowing +east into the Pacific, give way to +others that flow west to Lake Baikal. +The roof of the world, or, at least, of this +part of the world, has been reached, +and now we will follow the raindrops +towards the distant Atlantic.</p> + +<p>The Selenga, which we reach on the +last day of this journey, is a great and +strong flowing river, as large as the +St. Lawrence above the Ottawa. It is +crossed by a splendid iron bridge, resting +on magnificent piers of cut stone, a bridge +which would be an honor to any railway +in the world.</p> + +<p>It is the custom of the few travellers +who have crossed this line, or any part +of it, to poke fun at the Trans-Baikal +Railway. And, indeed, it is not hard to +do so. With its crawling trains, its inordinately +long stops, its primitive rolling-stock, +it does not inspire much respect. +It reminds one of the railway in +the United States called a “tri-weekly +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> +road,” which was explained by its president +to mean that a train went up one +week, and tried to come down the next.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp46" id="p1381_ill" style="max-width: 75.4375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1381_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + <p>BOUND FOR FAR SIBERIA</p> + <p>A passing glimpse of an emigrant train</p> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>All the ancient and hoary railway +jokes, like the one about the boy who +started on a half-fare ticket and was so +old before he reached the end of his journey +that he had to pay full fare for the +last part, are cracked and appreciated by +the passengers on this line. Yet it must +be remembered that the last spike in this +road was driven less than six months +before I passed over it; that it was not +even then accepted by the government, +or formally open for traffic; that it is +largely built for military exigencies, and +that no one is asked to travel over it, +but rather discouraged by Russian officials; +then the jokes lose their best +points.</p> + +<p>Still it must be confessed that the +road seems to tithe the mint, anise, and +cumin, and omit the weightier matters +of railway construction. For instance, +the water-towers are beautiful, stately +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> +structures, and the stations are very +creditable even for an old railway, but +the rails are light and constantly breaking +and giving way and delaying traffic +for days at a time. “Two streaks of rust +across Siberia,” is the exaggeration of +a friend, which has an element of truth +in it.</p> + +<p>Many parts of the embankment have +been carefully sodded, the sods being +pegged down with great care, but the +road is very imperfectly ballasted, and +is rough almost beyond belief. The +culverts and small bridges are buttressed +with cut stone, carefully dressed; the +cars, as I have said, are exceedingly +poor and filthy.</p> + +<p>Still the road is evidently built for the +future, and all these defects will, in time, +be remedied, and the Trans-Baikal section +will take its place as an important link +in the greatest railway of the world.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1401_ill" style="max-width: 115.0625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1401_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + FIFTEEN MINUTES AT EVERY STATION + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>During these long and weary days we +were obliged to get what diversion we +could from our fellow-passengers. We +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span> +watched the mother who combed her +offspring’s head with a carving-knife, +with which she made vigorous onslaught +on the numerous inhabitants that had +taken shelter there, while we shuddered +as we thought of the coming night in +close proximity. We were interested in +the other mother who did her daily washing +in a pint cup and hung it out to dry +on the upper bunk. We were fascinated +by the soldiers who performed their +morning ablutions by taking a large +mouthful of water from a teapot, then, +squirting it on their hands, vigorously +washed their faces.</p> + +<p>We never get away from the prisoners +in Siberia, and two cars, immediately in +front of ours, were filled with these poor +wretches. Before these cars, at every +station, marched four soldiers with set +bayonets. The heads of the prisoners, +shaved on one side only, would have betrayed +them even had they escaped for +a little.</p> + +<p>At the stations women and girls with +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> +milk and eggs were eagerly patronized +by us all, for we were desperately thirsty, +and water that we dared to drink was +scarce. At some stations we saw the +aborigines of the country, the Buriats, +of whom two hundred thousand remain +in the province. They are a Mongol +race, and their black hair and slant eyes +contrast with the blue eyes and tow +heads of the Siberians, bleached as they +were still further by the sun.</p> + +<p>Some of the Buriats are won to Christianity, +but most of them are rank heathen +still. They are a nomadic race, and do +not take kindly even to the limited civilization +of Siberia.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1421_ill" style="max-width: 124.8125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1421_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + PRISON CAR IN SIBERIA. FAMILIES OF PRISONERS AT THE WINDOWS + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>I must record that, in the midst of the +filth and discomfort and unutterable +odors of this hard journey, we met with +many courtesies and kindnesses from +the most unpromising of our fellow-travellers. +Some of the peasants were +ladies and gentlemen at heart, who would +incommode themselves to promote our +comfort, and were never too preoccupied +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> +to lend a helping hand, or to supplement +our exceedingly limited Russian. We +discovered a “fourth-class guardian angel,” +who took us under his special protection, +and was never weary of offering +little kindnesses. He even wished to +share with us his black bread and some +curds, which we found it difficult to refuse +without hurting his feelings.</p> + +<p>None of the occupants of our car were +intemperate or noisy, and, in genuine +politeness of heart, these Russian serfs +of a few years back could have given +many points to the two selfish, unmannerly, +foul-mouthed Frenchmen of the +party, who represent the nation erroneously +supposed to have a superfluous supply +of politeness and good manners.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="XII"> + XII + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>THE HOLY SEA</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>On the fifth day after leaving Stretinsk +we were aroused at two o’clock in the +morning, just as the faint dawn +began to streak the east, by a guard +going through the train and crying out: +“Misovaia, all change.” Eagerly we +rubbed our sleepy eyes open, for now we +had reached Lake Baikal, and we fondly +hoped that the most trying part of our +journey was over. But again we were +doomed to disappointment, for we waited +and waited and waited, and still there was +no sign of departure to the other side of +the lake. The sun rose, ascended high +in the heavens, reached the zenith, and +began to decline, and still we sat about +miserably upon our baggage, not daring +to go far lest at any moment the “ice-breaker” +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> +from the other side of the lake +might come to transfer us across.</p> + +<p>The station-master was eagerly importuned, +but knew nothing. No official +had the slightest information. Our Russian +fellow-travellers only shrugged their +shoulders when asked when we should +start. At length patience ceased to be a +virtue, and a telegram was prepared for +the governor of Irkutsk, asking why a +trainload of inoffensive passengers of all +nationalities were kept in anxious suspense +for so many hours at a miserable +little station which had been eaten bare of +provisions long ago.</p> + +<p>Just as this telegram was about to go +came word that the “ice-breaker” on the +other side was waiting for the minister +of justice, and that when he got ready +to start the boat would come. This +proved to be the case, and at last, fourteen +hours after we had reached Misovaia, the +great steamer which should carry us +across was seen approaching. Then it +took hours more to unload and reload her, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> +and finally, in the middle of the night, +twenty-two hours after we should have +started, we got under way for the other +side of the lake.</p> + +<p>I dwell for a moment on this irritating +experience, for it represents one phase of +Russian life which is very foreign to life +in free, constitutional countries. For +twenty-two hours three hundred people +were made to wait upon the convenience +of one official. Hungry passengers were +allowed to half starve; sick and crying +babies, who had with difficulty survived +a week of hard journeying amid unnamable +privations; weary mothers, +trying to comfort the babies; business +and professional men with important +engagements to keep, and whose connections +with other roads were seriously +imperilled by this delay, all must wait +and suffer while this one official finished +his morning nap, or ate an elaborate +dinner, or otherwise made himself ready +to start for the other side of Lake Baikal.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1461_ill" style="max-width: 125.5em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1461_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE ELEPHANT’S NOSE, LAKE BAIKAL + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Had this happened in any free country, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> +such a howl would have arisen as would +have insured the decapitation of this +minister of justice (minister of justice +indeed! minister of injustice rather) at the +first possible election.</p> + +<p>How the <cite>New York Tribune</cite> or the +<cite>London Times</cite> would have blazed with +indignant protests had such an affair +taken place in America or Great Britain! +But in Siberia such an event is quite a +matter of course. We were still more +surprised by the utter indifference and +nonchalance of our Russian fellow-passengers. +There was nothing to be said +and nothing to be done. “Whatever is, +is right,” especially if it is done by one +high in authority, seemed to be their +motto.</p> + +<p>The contrast between the foreign passengers +and the Russians during this +exasperating delay was marked and amusing. +The former champed at the bit, and +fretted and fumed and (it is feared) swore +in their different tongues. They would +gather together in little groups and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span> +discuss the situation. They haunted the +telegraph office. They interviewed every +promising official. They tried to get +another steamer. They exhausted every +possibility of progress.</p> + +<p>The Russians placidly sipped their +tumblers of tea, gathered about the steaming +samovar, quietly curled up on their +luggage, and went to sleep as though they +had not an irritating care in the world. +Why should they fret? The official had +all power. They had no appeal. No +protest was open to them. No <cite>Times</cite> +would thunder in St. Petersburg. No +<cite>Tribune</cite> would voice their complaints in +Moscow. “Let it go; life is too short +to wear it out with such worries,” seemed +to be their mental attitude.</p> + +<p>The irritations of those hours of waiting, +however, could not destroy the beauty of +the placid lake, the Holy Sea (Bai-Kal), +on whose shores we were waiting.</p> + +<p>Baikal is one of the great lakes of the +world. It covers thirteen thousand five +hundred square miles of surface. Only +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span> +Lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron, +of our own great lakes, surpass it in size. +It is half as large again as Lake Erie, +and twice as large as Lake Ontario, +and being long and narrow, and surrounded +by high, precipitous hills, is more +picturesque than any of them. Its waters +are crystal clear, and, at a depth of forty +feet, every pebble upon the bottom can +be seen. Drop a stone into its clear +waters from the steamer’s deck, and you +can see it fluttering and zigzagging its +way down as a feather falls through the +air. The water is as cold, too, as it is +clear, as a delicious bath that I took +testified. Even on the last days of June +the water cannot be far above the freezing +point.</p> + +<p>The peasants who live on the shores of +the lake regard it with almost superstitious +reverence and love. There is in +their estimation no lake in all the world +like the Baikal. Its rock-bound shores, +its wooded steeps, green with larch, and +fir, and pine, and birch; its limestone and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span> +marbles glistening in the sun; its shores +strewn with bright pebbles, washed smooth +and round by countless centuries of the +lapping waves, all combine to make the +Baikal worthy of the love and reverence +with which the true Siberian regards it.</p> + +<p>We found it in a peaceful mood, but it +is not always so by any means. “No +man has ever said his prayers until he +has ventured on Lake Baikal,” is a common +saying of the peasants on the shore. +Lying, as it does, in a comparatively +narrow valley, between the mountain +ranges, the terrible gales which have +their homes between the mountain peaks +are often let loose with but scant warning. +Then woe betide the little fisherman’s +craft that is caught far from shore, and +even the passengers on the stout steamer +may well tremble.</p> + +<p>To unite the two shores with a strong, +substantial ferry-boat which can run +throughout the winter months, the railway +has had constructed in England and +brought out piecemeal the huge “ice-breaker,” +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span> +so called. Several of the parts +of this great craft were lost, strayed, or +stolen on the way, and infinite difficulty +was experienced in putting it together +again when it reached the lake. Even +now some tell me that it is no great success +as an ice-breaker.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1501_ill" style="max-width: 125.375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1501_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE ICE-BREAKER ON LAKE BAIKAL + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>On a fine day, with a smooth sea, nothing +could be more delightful than a little +journey on the great ships. Into the +hold of the steamer runs the whole train +without unloading; or, rather, that is to +be the way when the railway is in running +order. Three parallel tracks throughout +the entire length of the boat afford ample +room for the longest trains. Above are +elegant accommodations for first-class +passengers, while the steerage people dispose +of themselves in the hold as best they +can.</p> + +<p>Four great stacks belch out smoke +and cinders, and the engines are of the +most powerful pattern. A half acre of +deck room over all gives the passenger +unrivalled opportunities of viewing the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span> +magnificent lake, whose southern end he +is about to traverse.</p> + +<p>A fine breakwater of wooden piles, +nearly half a mile long, provides a safe +little harbor on the eastern side of the +lake, while another, not quite so large, +affords a refuge from the winds on the +other side. Between these harbors the +ice-breaker plies back and forth, making +the distance of about fifty miles in four +hours.</p> + +<p>As we approach the western shore, the +scenery grows more lovely than on the +eastern side. The crystal lake, fifty +feet deep at the shore, dashes in places +against precipitous cliffs; the banks are +clad in freshest grass, dotted with poppies +and lilies and blue honeysuckles, while +a little village nestles in a cove beneath a +frowning cliff. Rarely have I seen in +all my travels a scene more lovely than +is presented as the ice-breaker makes +her way cautiously into the little artificial +harbor of Listvinitschnoie, at the +southwestern end of the Holy Sea.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span></p> + +<p>In the early morning we could see, as we +thought, the seals disporting themselves +in the icy waters, for it is a singular fact +that in Lake Baikal alone, of all the fresh-water +lakes in the world, are seals found. +It is thought by some that in prehistoric +times they made their way up the River +Yenisei, that flows from the lake into the +Arctic Ocean, two thousand miles away. +At any rate, they have made themselves +very much at home in the Baikal, and +have increased and multiplied and replenished +the lake.</p> + +<p>The determination of the Russian +government to have through steam communication +between the oceans is shown +by the fact that while such sums have +been spent for an ice-breaker and for +harbors to make the link across the Baikal +possible, the railway is also being pushed +around the southern end of the lake, only +a short distance away. Both of these +routes will be needed, I understand, to +facilitate the mobilization of her armies—the +supreme object which Russia has in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span> +mind in the construction of this great +iron road.</p> + +<p>At the village of Listvinitschnoie, on +the western side of the lake, we had another +exasperating delay of eight hours, +while passengers and baggage were being +transferred to the other train, a transfer +which would have been made in America +in half an hour. For half a day we sat +about on our baggage in the broiling +sun, surrounded by filthy Moujiks, while +the leisurely engines puffed back and +forth, and the still more leisurely porters +loaded the train. At length all was ready, +and we steamed in a leisurely fashion to +Irkutsk, the great city of Central Siberia.</p> + +<p>Here we arrived after being six days, +within a few hours, on the road since +leaving Stretinsk. In those six days +we had travelled less than eight hundred +miles, and less than six miles an hour, +including the stops. We had endured +many discomforts, some of them entirely +unnecessary had a little system and +forethought been used. Even in the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span> +present incomplete state of the equipment +of the road the journey ought to be +made in two days, and decent cars might +be provided for decent people.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1541_ill" style="max-width: 125.5625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1541_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE SHORES OF LAKE BAIKAL + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>I must say that this experience somewhat +weakened my faith in the boasted +energy and enterprise of Russian railway +construction. How a road that is +so slow and halting in peace can be great +in war, I do not see. How a line that +cannot carry a few hundred passengers +and their luggage without interminable +delays can be used to mobilize a hundred +thousand soldiers at short notice is difficult +to comprehend. It is fortunate for +Russia that she has a slow, stupid opponent +on the other side of the world to +contend with, an opponent that not only +has no slow railroads, but no railroads +at all, of her own.</p> + +<p>As it is, the Trans-Baikal railway, +poor as it is, will undoubtedly prove +a very important instrument in forcing +beneficent Russian fetters upon poor, +decrepit, worn-out China.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="XIII"> + XIII + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>A SIBERIAN CITY OF CHURCHES</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>As the feeble and halting train that +brought us from Lake Baikal, following +the meanderings of the swift +Angara River, drew near to Irkutsk, the +capital of Central Siberia, we received the +impression of a small city dominated +by a score of great churches. And this +impression was not dissipated when we +crossed the Angara on the bridge of boats +that links the city with the railway on +the other side and found ourselves within +the city precincts.</p> + +<p>You cannot look up without seeing a +beautiful dome or spire. In the waters +of the Angara the great cathedral is +reflected, flanked by two other churches +which in any other city of its size would +be considered marvels. The principal +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span> +street of the city seems to lead up to and +terminate in another lofty and imposing +church, while every section of the town +has its own ecclesiastical buildings of +lesser magnitude. Brooklyn must look +out for its laurels as the City of Churches +when it comes in competition with Irkutsk.</p> + +<p>The interior of the churches is quite +equal to their exterior, and they blaze +with sacred pictures and icons, framed +and matted in gold, so that the chief impression +one gets is of walls of solid gold, +chased and fretted and highly ornamented, +with the face of Christ or the Virgin +or some Oriental saint peering out between +the shining plates.</p> + +<p>The Russians are evidently an extremely +devout and religious people. This +is evidenced by their churches, which are +always, both metaphorically and literally, +higher than the chimneys of their factories. +In the small towns along the line of the +railway the church is always the one +conspicuous object. The village may be, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span> +it probably is, built entirely of logs, +without a single frame or brick house +within its border. But the church, with +its glittering dome and blue and green +towers, always lifts its Greek cross skyward, +and reminds the poor Moujiks that +there is another world above the flat +plains of Siberia.</p> + +<p>The unabashed devoutness of the +peasants tells the same story as their +churches. Our fellow-travellers in the +fourth-class cars from Stretinsk never +omitted their morning devotions, their +ablutions being an entirely secondary +matter. The poorest boatman would always +cross himself and bless his crust +of black bread before he ate it. The +soldiers with whom we journeyed for +hundreds of versts, undismayed by the +presence of their comrades, would every +morning face the rising sun, and though +they could secure no possible privacy, +would, with genuine devoutness, pray for +ten minutes at a time, standing bare-headed +and reverential in the crowded +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span> +railway car in which they were travelling. +Such genuine devotion speaks well for the +church which fosters it, and for the country +that is peopled and defended by faithful +devotees, for no nation without a religion +which took strong hold of the hearts +of the common people ever greatly influenced +the destinies of the world.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1581_ill" style="max-width: 124.9375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1581_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + BURIATS FROM LAKE BAIKAL, WITH SEAL FROM THE LAKE + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Distance lends considerable enchantment +to Irkutsk, and nearer approach +does not bear out the remoter promise +of its beautiful churches. The streets +are poorly paved and extremely dusty, +and the wooden sidewalks are frequently +man-traps for the unwary passenger. +Still it is no mean city to be found in +the heart of Siberia, three thousand five +hundred miles from the nearest European +capital.</p> + +<p>Irkutsk has had time enough to grow, +for it was founded thirty years after +the <i>Mayflower</i> sailed into Plymouth harbor, +and is about ready to celebrate its +quarter millennial. Founded originally +as a military post to withstand the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span> +attacks of wandering Tartars, its naturally +advantageous situation has made +it the metropolis of Siberia. It is now +the seat of government of the province of +Eastern Siberia, and contains something +over fifty thousand inhabitants. It contains +twenty-five Greek churches, substantial +Catholic and Lutheran churches, +and two synagogues. There are no less +than forty schools, among which are seminaries +for girls, military and technical +schools of various kinds, so that the +young idea of Irkutsk has no excuse for +not learning how to shoot.</p> + +<p>The city has lost something of its +ancient importance since the region of +the Amour has been erected into a separate +province, independent of Irkutsk, and +since the rise of Vladivostock as a point +of departure on the Pacific for Odessa +and America. Nevertheless, it will always +be an important centre, owing to +its situation near the head-waters of the +Angara, which starts from Lake Baikal, +forty miles away, and continues its +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span> +majestic and ever-widening way for three +thousand miles until, as the Yenisei, +the fourth greatest river in the world, it +empties into the Arctic Ocean. It is a +centre for the shipment of gold, and in +a single year no less than twenty-one +thousand pounds weight avoirdupois of +the precious metal passed through Irkutsk +on its way to St. Petersburg.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1601_ill" style="max-width: 114.25em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1601_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + AN IRKUTSK DROSKY + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>It may make the geography of Siberia +a little more plain if I here explain that +Siberia, for governmental purposes, is +divided into six provinces: First, starting +from the Ural Mountains, Western +Siberia, that borders on Europe, and in a +rough way embraces the basin of the Obi. +Next, Eastern Siberia, which stretches a +thousand miles farther east and embraces +the basin of the Yenisei and its tributaries. +In this province Irkutsk is situated. Then +comes the Trans-Baikal, the province that +lies east of the beautiful lake of that name, +and through which we made our slow and +toilsome way as described in the last chapter. +Then, east of that, the great province +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span> +of the Amour, embracing the basin +of the Amour and Ussuri. Last of all, +bordering on the Pacific Ocean, and including +the convict island of Saghalien, +is the province called in Russian Primorskaia. +The province of the Steppes lies +south of Western Siberia, but with that +our new way around the old world has +nothing to do, for the railway barely +grazes its edge, and does not fairly enter +its territory. During the twenty-nine +days of rail and river travel which I have +already described, we had traversed in +succession Primorskaia, Amourskaia, and +Zabaikalskaia and had reached the eastern +edge of Eastern Siberia.</p> + +<p>During these twenty-nine days we had +travelled nearly twenty-seven hundred +miles, and, between us and Moscow, +there still lay more than thirty-three +hundred miles to be traversed. But the +peculiar hardships of the journey were +nearly over, for a <i lang="fr">train de luxe</i> starts +from Irkutsk for Moscow every Friday +afternoon, and we were just in season to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span> +get our tickets, and secure our berths, +and replenish our seedy wardrobes, and +take passage on the most famous train +in all the world, which, without a single +change of cars, runs a distance considerably +greater than from Boston to San +Francisco.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1621_ill" style="max-width: 124.8125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1621_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + GENERAL VIEW OF IRKUTSK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>We were happy enough to board this +train, as can be imagined, after the bare +boards and filth of the uncertain train +which had carried us from Stretinsk, and +were in a fit frame of mind to enjoy its +luxuries and to overlook its defects. +Nor were we sorry to leave Irkutsk, for +though it is a remarkable place to be +found so far from the confines of civilization, +yet it has few attractions to long +beguile the traveller; and the stifling +dust of the streets, which never seem to +be watered, obscure the attractions it +does possess.</p> + +<p>Shortly before our arrival news had +come of the serious disturbances in +China, and troops were being enrolled +and equipped and hurried to the eastern +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> +coast in feverish haste. The whole +square in front of the Hôtel de Russie +was filled with peasants in their red +blouses and top-boots, each with his tea-kettle +and little bag of poor belongings. +These peasants were to be shipped off +that day as food for Chinese powder, if +so be the Celestials have any powder +left by the time these Moujiks reach +Blagavestchensk or, later, Port Arthur. +The whole city was full of rumors of +war, and, though we could not read the +Russian papers, or know the extent of +the trouble, the air seemed vibrant with +battle.</p> + +<p>We were told that the train we had +taken over the Trans-Baikal road would +be the last passenger train that would +be allowed to go through for six weeks. +How we blessed our fortunate stars that +we were not stranded in Stretinsk for +six times seven days! We were told +also that between Omsk and Irkutsk +were twelve trains loaded with soldiers, +bound for Manchuria, and that no private +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> +telegram to Vladivostock could be delivered +within a week, so hot were the +wires with government despatches.</p> + +<p>Some of these reports were true and +some were exaggerated, but evidently +China’s last days had come, we thought, +as we boarded the <i lang="fr">train de luxe</i>, and +Russia intends to be in at the death.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="XIV"> + XIV + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>A SIBERIAN <i lang="fr">TRAIN DE LUXE</i></span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The Paris Exposition has made famous +the Siberian <i lang="fr">train de luxe</i>, with +its moving panorama, its terminal +stations at St. Petersburg and Peking, +and its dinners at seven francs per head. +The newspaper correspondent, too, who +has seen it only in his mind’s eye, as +he sat at his own cosey fireside rehashing +second-hand descriptions of its magnificence, +has done his share to advertise +it, until the wondering world has an idea +that it is a veritable Waldorf-Astoria +on wheels, before which all Empire State +expresses on the American continent +must hide their diminished heads. We +read of library-cars and bath-cars, gymnasium-cars +where one can make a century +run on a stationary bicycle, elegant +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span> +dinners, barber-shops where passengers +receive a free shave every morning, +pianos, and other luxuries too numerous +to mention.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1661_ill" style="max-width: 125.375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1661_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + ONE OF THE BEAUTIFUL CHURCHES OF IRKUTSK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>As a matter of fact, the Siberian <i lang="fr">train +de luxe</i>, at least as it started from Irkutsk +on the 29th day of June, in the year of +our Lord 1900, was a rather shabby vestibuled +train of three sleepers, a diner, and +a baggage-car. It was luxurious, indeed, +compared with the fourth-class emigrant +train on which we had been journeying, +but it is still many degrees behind the +best American trains. It should be remarked, +however, that the best cars had +been sent to Paris for the Exposition, and +it is doubtless true that the train we took +is somewhat below the average of the +Siberian <i lang="fr">trains de luxe</i>. It is well worth +describing, however, as an important link +in the great chain that connects the +Atlantic and the Pacific in this new way +around the world.</p> + +<p>First, and very naturally, comes the +engine of Russian make, with a great +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> +flaring smoke-stack for burning wood. +Next to it is the baggage-car with one +end fitted with a bath-tub, where dusty +travellers can enjoy a refreshing bath on +payment of a rouble and a half (seventy-five +cents), a very high price to be sure +compared with the rate charged for transportation; +but then the scarcest and +dearest thing throughout Siberia we +found to be cold water, either for drinking +or bathing purposes.</p> + +<p>Following the baggage-car was the +dining-car, which was also divided into +two sections, half being occupied with +small tables that seat two and four each, +and the other half fitted with easy-chairs +for the smokers and provided with ample +windows for observation. In the smoking-room +was a small library of, perhaps, +fifty books in the Russian, French, and +German languages, but nothing in +English, except two or three discarded +fifth-rate novels in paper covers, evidently +contributed by previous travellers.</p> + +<p>In the dining-car, two <i lang="fr">table d’hôte</i> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> +meals were provided: a lunch of two +courses at one o’clock, which cost one +rouble, and a dinner at six of four courses, +for a rouble and a quarter. At other +times of day passengers could order +what they pleased <i lang="fr">à la carte</i> from a +limited bill of fare.</p> + +<p>Behind the dining-car came a second-class +sleeping-car, then a first-class +sleeper, and, last of all, another second-class +sleeper.</p> + +<p>These cars are all divided into compartments, +or little staterooms, holding +two or four people each, with a window, +a table, and a wide and very comfortable +berth for each person. The cars are +all handsomely carpeted and upholstered +in blue plush, covered, for the sake of +protection, with red-striped denim. In +each stateroom were convenient racks +and hooks for the disposal of clothes and +baggage, and in every way one could +make himself as comfortable and have +almost as much room as in an ocean +steamer’s cabin.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span></p> + +<p>For two friends travelling together, +or for a small family of three, as in my +own case, this arrangement is far superior +to America’s more promiscuous and public +Pullman sleeping-car. For individuals +travelling alone, the Pullman plan has +some decided advantages, if one does not +care to be cooped up in narrow quarters +for eight or nine days with any chance +stranger who may be assigned to the +same stateroom. The Pullman cars, too, +economize space, for while from forty to +forty-eight people can sleep in a Pullman +car when crowded, only eighteen can find +“lying-down room,” in a Siberian sleeper.</p> + +<p>One curiosity of this particular <i lang="fr">train +de luxe</i> was that the first and second +class cars were precisely alike in every +particular. In amount of room, fittings, +upholstery, and comforts of every description, +there was not the slightest difference +between the three sleeping-cars +that composed our train, while the difference +of price was nearly forty roubles in +favor of the second-class. One would +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> +think that, these being the facts, the second-class +cars would be overcrowded and +the first-class would be empty. Such was +not the case on this train at least, for I +found every cabin in the first-class taken, +and was able to get a large four-berth +stateroom in one of the second-class cars +for little more than I would pay for two +berths in the first-class car.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1701_ill" style="max-width: 115.1875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1701_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A PART OF OUR <i lang="fr">TRAIN DE LUXE</i> + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>At the most, the fares in Siberia are remarkably +cheap. For the whole stateroom +I paid less than one hundred and +twenty dollars from Irkutsk to Moscow, a +distance of three thousand three hundred +and fifty miles; this included four fares +and the supplementary price of the <i lang="fr">train +de luxe</i>. For the same accommodations in +a Pullman car across the American continent +(a shorter distance) I should have +paid at least five hundred dollars. The +full first-class fare in the <i lang="fr">train de luxe</i> is +about fifty dollars, while the second-class +fares are less than thirty dollars. By the +ordinary trains a considerable saving is +effected over these very cheap rates.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span></p> + +<p>Each car has its porter, who can usually +speak German or French in addition to +Russian, but the specimens that we saw +were very lazy and inefficient fellows compared +with the deft and obliging “George” +who attends to one’s wants in a Pullman +car. Our porters on the <i lang="fr">train de luxe</i> +never thought of sweeping or dusting +the staterooms, and seemed to think it +an imposition to be asked to thoroughly +make up the berths for day travel, preferring +to leave the beds made up by day +that they might have less trouble at night. +All day long the lazy porters would loll +about on their seats in the middle of the +car, doing as little as possible, and apparently +begrudging that little. Twice a +week the bed linen is changed. Ample +washrooms, with a single roller towel, +for all guests who do not furnish their +own, complete the equipment of the Siberian +sleeper.</p> + +<p>My excuse for this somewhat minute +description of these accommodations is +that it will be welcomed by future travellers +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span> +who have to spend at least eight +and one-half days in their little room on +wheels.</p> + +<p>It must not be thought that for all its +name and fame the “Siberian Special” +is a lightning express. In speed it would +be outstripped, during all the early part +of the journey, by any “huckleberry +train” in America. Fourteen miles an +hour, including stops, was all it pretended +to make during the first five days from +Irkutsk. The road-bed is new, the rails +are light, and as a consequence the train +plods along at a pace which an able-bodied +cowboy on his bronco would outstrip. +In fact I saw, one evening, a race between +our famous train and a Siberian “cow-puncher,” +in which, for two miles or more, +the horseman more than held his own. +Then he pulled up with a careless wave +of his hat, as though he did not consider +it worth while to race any longer with so +slow a rival.</p> + +<p>The stops at the stations, too, seem +most unnecessarily protracted for such a +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span> +train, which might be supposed to have +the right of way. Never less than ten +minutes, and more often fifteen or twenty, +our patient locomotive would stand panting +at every little platform in the wilds +before the station-master would ring his +welcome bell, to tell it that it might shriek +its farewell and proceed on its way.</p> + +<p>For a number of miles after leaving Irkutsk, +the railway follows the windings +of the swift-flowing Angara, and then, +leaving the river, strikes off across the +interminable wooded prairies that line so +much of the track to Moscow. The weather +was exceedingly hot during the first +four or five days of the journey, the thermometers +in the cars frequently registering +over ninety degrees Fahrenheit. If +one takes the Siberian route to avoid the +heat of the Red Sea in summer, he will not +gain much, though, to be sure, the cool +nights make the Siberian journey more +tolerable. Moreover, the heat, much of +the time, was of the damp, “muggy” variety +so trying to bear.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1741_ill" style="max-width: 125.375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1741_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A VIEW ON THE ANGARA, NEAR IRKUTSK + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span></p> + +<p>A plague of flies, which would have +made even Pharaoh quail, added much to +the minor discomforts of the trip, though +they did not afflict the passengers within +the cars as sorely as when they ventured +out upon the platform. Here they were, +indeed, intolerable, and set every pair of +hands revolving about a tormented head +like a windmill in a gale. The most obnoxious +insect was a little black gnat, +much like the midge of the Adirondacks, +which in clouds filled the air, and filled as +well eyes, and nose, and ears of any venturesome +traveller that left the comparative +refuge of his car. The natives have +learned to protect themselves against these +pests by wearing veils of black mosquito +netting day and night. For fully +fifteen hundred miles almost every man, +woman, and child we met was thus protected, +and it gave a peculiarly solemn +and lugubrious aspect to the little villages +and stations to see every one peering at +you through a mask of black netting. In +this funereal attire every Siberian looked +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> +as though he had lost every friend in the +world, or was about to attend his own obsequies. +Trainmen working on the track, +flagmen signalling the engineer, women +with bottles of milk and loaves of bread, +station-masters in bright official uniforms, +little tow-headed children with bare feet, +all had gone into mourning because of the +midges.</p> + +<p>At every station were country hucksters +at a little stand, ready to sell the few +products of the farms to the hungry travellers. +They did not do much business, +naturally, with the passengers of the <i lang="fr">train +de luxe</i>, who had their own dining-car, +but with the regular trains or the frequent +special emigrant or military trains they +had a rushing trade. As we approached +the European frontier, prices of these country +comestibles fell, and boiled eggs were +to be bought for half a cent each, and a +very considerable loaf of bread for two +cents and a half, while milk, fried fish, +chunks of roast meat, and kvass, or Russian +pop-beer, were proportionately cheap.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp44" id="p1761_ill" style="max-width: 75.875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1761_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A TRAINMAN WHO HAS TAKEN THE VEIL + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span></p> + +<p>At almost every siding we passed a long +train laden with emigrants or soldiers on +their way to China, for the Siberian reserves +had been called out. The latter +were stalwart, rough, honest-looking fellows, +who evidently had left their little +farms at a moment’s notice to serve their +country. They seemed to possess no uniforms +or equipments, though, to be sure, +these may have been stored in the close +box-cars that accompanied each train. +They wore their peasants’ red blouses +and loose breeches. Many of them were +barefooted, and some of them were hatless +and ragged, but, before they meet the Chinese, +these raw recruits will doubtless be +licked into shape by the drill-masters, uniformed +and armed, and made into very +presentable soldiers. They certainly have +the requisite brawn, if not the brain. I +was surprised to see that there seemed to +be few young men among them, scarcely +any under thirty, while most looked to be +over forty.</p> + +<p>The emigrants were weighted with more +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span><i lang="la">impedimenta</i> than the soldiers, but even +their household belongings were pitifully +scant. Every day we passed half a dozen +long trainloads of men, women, and children +on their way to the new Eldorado +on the banks of the Amour. Most of them +were too poor to afford even the hard comfort +of a third or fourth class car, and they +were pigged in together in ordinary box +freight-cars, which were marked on the +outside to carry “twelve horses or twenty-four +men.” Still they did not seem discontented, +much less hopeless, but at +every little station jumped from their stifling +boxes and raced for the hot-water +tank, which a paternal government always +kept steaming, free of charge. Here +they filled their tin pails and made their +inevitable “chi” (tea), on which, supplemented +by liberal portions of black bread, +they chiefly subsist.</p> + +<p>Sometimes we indulged in the luxury +of giving the little emigrating urchins, +bound for a far-off land, a few kopeks, +when the gratitude of the parents was +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span> +touching to see. Rushing from the car, +they would sometimes seize our hands +and kiss them in the courtly old Russian +style, as though we had bestowed a +king’s ransom on their offspring, and +then as the trains parted, going east and +west, would tumble back into their fifth-class +boxes, while we would return to +our compartments feeling as we reached +them that he would be a thankless man +indeed who, with such contrasts in view, +should ever grumble again at the minor +discomforts of a <i lang="fr">train de luxe</i>.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1781_ill" style="max-width: 125.8125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1781_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + SIBERIAN RAILWAY NEAR THE ASIATIC BORDER + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="XV"> + XV + <br> + <span class='allsmcap'>OUT OF ASIA INTO EUROPE</span> + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The long journey in the <i lang="fr">train de +luxe</i> from Irkutsk to St. Petersburg, +especially the Siberian part of the +journey, does not afford a great variety +of scenery or incident. But, if somewhat +monotonous, it is a pleasing and +gentle monotony. There is not a mile +of desert land in all the five thousand +versts between Lake Baikal and the +Atlantic, or, for that matter, between +the Pacific and the Atlantic, by the way +we have travelled.</p> + +<p>There are no long stretches of sagebrush +plain, such as Wyoming, Utah, +and Nevada afford; no “bad lands,” +such as are found in the Dakotas; no +interminable stretches of wearisome, treeless +prairies, such as the Canadian Pacific +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span> +traverses in Manitoba and Assiniboia. +There are occasional wide reaches of +prairie or meadow land, but trees are +always in sight, and for the most part +the road passes through a heavily wooded +country. Birches abound everywhere, +with their graceful white boles, and there +are many forests of pine and poplar. +The trees in the vicinity of the railway +are not large, the “monarchs of the forest,” +if there ever were any, having been cut +off at the advent of the railway.</p> + +<p>The piles of cut wood by the railroad +track impress the traveller with the +boundlessness of the forests. Millions +of cords of clean cut birch and pine, with +scarcely a knot or a blemish, stand in neat +piles waiting the insatiable engine.</p> + +<p>Everywhere the land seems fertile, +and, though but an infinitesimal part +of it is cultivated, it would all reward the +husbandman. Great flocks of sleek +cattle roam over these natural pastures, +but there is room for a hundred flocks +where one roams to-day. And all this +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> +vast domain has been waiting for settlers +at Europe’s back door during all the +centuries. Only now is the door fairly +open, and the new settlers are pouring +through. America, meanwhile, has been +discovered, opened, and occupied; Australia +has been discovered and great +cities built upon its seaboard; the tropics +and the poles have been explored; and +all the time a great fertile domain, vaster +than all Europe, and separated from +Europe’s swarming, overcrowded millions +by no barrier of sea, and but a low mountain +range, has been waiting, almost +tenantless, for a people. But now Siberia +has been discovered—discovered by the +settler and the home-maker, as well as +by the politician and the autocrat who +desires a Botany Bay for his convicts—and +a new and virgin empire that can +afford asylum for the surplus population +of two continents has been added to the +world’s productive domains. Undoubtedly +this enormous and almost untrodden +empire gives Russia a great advantage +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span> +among the nations of the world. Here +is a vast new continent contiguous and +near to ancient Russia, a domain which +cannot be seriously threatened by any +enemy, a domain which in the decrepit +state of China requires no fleets or armies +to protect. At length Russia has awakened +to a sense of its value, and is pouring +into it by the ten thousand every +month the peaceful settlers who will +make her possession secure.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1821_ill" style="max-width: 124.8125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1821_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + ZLATOOST, A BORDER TOWN BETWEEN EUROPE AND ASIA + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Between Irkutsk and Moscow the railway +passes through a few large towns of +considerable importance. Chief of these +are Crasnoiarsk, about seven hundred +miles from Irkutsk; Taiga, some three +hundred miles still nearer Europe; Omsk, +about five hundred miles further west; +and Tschelabinsk, which lies near the +edge of Europe, two thousand miles from +our starting point at Irkutsk.</p> + +<p>These places will be but names to most +of my readers, and they will not be much +the wiser if I tell them such facts as that +Omsk has forty thousand inhabitants and +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> +Tschelabinsk has fifteen thousand. All +these towns, and many smaller ones that +I might mention, are places of no little importance +in the districts of which they are +the centres, but they do not as yet cut +much of a figure on the world’s maps. +They all have the characteristics of frontier +towns, are built largely of logs, but +boast from one to twenty beautiful +churches, which always strike the eye +and give them a character and a beauty +which they would sadly lack without the +shining domes and brilliant crosses pointing +heavenward.</p> + +<p>Omsk is the most important place on +the line of the railway between Irkutsk +and Moscow, and is the residence of the +governor-general of the province of the +Steppes, and of a Greek Church archbishop.</p> + +<p>Tomsk is a larger and more important +place still, but is not directly on the +Trans-Siberian route, being connected by +a branch line at Taiga.</p> + +<p>The road crosses many large rivers during +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span> +these two thousand miles before it +reaches the European frontier, and the +cost of the great iron bridges which span +them must have been enormous. They +seem to be built in the most substantial +manner, with piers and buttresses of +massive cut stone. These rivers belong +to the great systems of the Yenisei and +the Obi, which in their upper reaches +branch off into many streams, each of +which, in any other continent, would be +a notable and famous stream. But Siberia +is so rich in great rivers that even the +names of these mighty tributaries are not +of great interest to the reading public. +When Siberia shall come to her own and +take her place among the great populous +nations of the earth, these rivers will add +enormously to her wealth and commerce.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the fifth day from +Irkutsk we went to bed in Asia, and woke +up on the morning of the sixth day in +Europe, and in the beautifully situated +town of Zlatoost. We found ourselves +also in the heart of the Urals, and the contrast +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span> +with the flat plains of Siberia was +most refreshing.</p> + +<p>Lovely spruce-clad mountains towered +above us on every side; a rushing river, +which the track follows for many miles, +seemed to beckon us on with its smiling +ripples that glinted and glowed in the +morning sun. Great, open, park-like valleys +and uplands lay between the mountains, +dotted with trees and covered with +the greenest of grass, studded with beautiful +flowers of every hue. Altogether, +for many miles, the scene was one of rare +loveliness, and was worth travelling a +thousand weary versts to see.</p> + +<p>The Russians call this region of the +Urals the “Switzerland of Russia,” and +though it lacks the grandeur of the snow-clad +Alps, it has a beauty of its own which +is exceedingly charming.</p> + +<p>All day long our road wound through +these charming scenes, up hill and down +dale, usually keeping a rushing, sparkling +river in view, until, towards the close +of the long day, the great town of Oofa, +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> +with its beautiful churches and fine railway +station, came in view. We had +passed the barrier of the Urals, and the +day of loveliest scenery in all the long +journey had come to an end.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1861_ill" style="max-width: 124.6875em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1861_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + IN THE URAL MOUNTAINS + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Our deliberate train mended its pace +very considerably after getting into Europe, +and, on the last three days of the +journey, did almost as many versts as +during the first five. The engineer actually +seemed able to get by some small +and insignificant stations without stopping, +and where we did stop it was often +for less than a full half-hour. We averaged +fully twenty miles an hour after +crossing the Urals, which seemed like +lightning speed after our slow and toilsome +way in Siberia.</p> + +<p>On the seventh day of our journey +from Irkutsk, the Urals had faded into the +distance, and the flat plains of European +Russia were substituted for the flat plains +of Asiatic Russia. The country on both +sides of the mountains looks much the +same, except that the European plains +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span> +are better cultivated and less wooded. +They have evidently known the plowshare +for many a hundred years, and in +early July were smiling with luxuriant +crops of wheat, and barley, and rye. +Greater Russia plainly is in no danger +this year of a wide-spread famine.</p> + +<p>In some places hay-making had begun, +and the great unfenced fields containing +hundreds of acres were alive with haymakers +in gay attire. The Russian +farmers live together in villages, instead +of in isolated farmhouses, as do our +husbandmen, and the business of cutting +and making a great communal hayfield +was evidently an important matter +that brought together all the men, women, +and children of the village. Often forty +hay-wagons, each with a span of horses +and five times as many people, were +assembled at the edge of a field. The +mowers, in long rows, would then start +for the other side of the great field, nearly +a mile away, cutting a wide swath as +they went, while fifty Russian Maud +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span> +Mullers, in red and blue bodices, raked +the meadows sweet with hay, which +yesterday had been cut. They seemed +merry and light-hearted about their task, +and we could hear snatches of song and +bursts of laughter, and many a bright +bandanna was waved at the flying train.</p> + +<p>The small villages did not strike me, +as I saw them from the train, as being +superior to the Siberian towns. They are +built largely of logs, or of mud and wattle, +and have low-browed thatch roofs, often +much out of repair. But every village, +however small and shabby, has a beautiful +church, which contrasts strangely +with the one-story thatch-roof huts that +gather around it, as if a brood of very diminutive +chickens were clustering around +a big brooding mother hen.</p> + +<p>The large towns which we passed, +as we drew near to Moscow, were distinctly +better built than in Siberia. +Large blocks of brick and stone, wide +streets, and a general air of thrift and +prosperity seemed to pervade them. +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span> +Samara is a city nobly situated on the +banks of the Volga, and has really a regal +appearance on her crown of hills, with +her great cathedral and noble churches +dominating all.</p> + +<p>The railway crosses the Volga, a few +miles after leaving Samara, by a splendid +iron bridge, nearly a mile long. Even +here, so far from its source, this greatest +river of Europe is a majestic, swift-flowing +stream, bearing upon its ample bosom +great rafts from the pine forests near its +source, and many great steamers, which +carry passengers to the famous fair at +Nijni-Novgorod, and other towns along +its banks. Most, if not all of these +steamers, use petroleum for fuel, brought +from the great wells of Batoum, and +huge tanks for the storage of oil begin +to form conspicuous features of the landscape +near every large town.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1901_ill" style="max-width: 126.0em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1901_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + THE KREMLIN IN WINTER + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Indeed, our own locomotive, instead +of gorging itself with birchwood, as its +predecessors which drew the <i lang="fr">train de luxe</i> +had done, took long deep draughts of +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span> +crude kerosene oil, which, it must be said, +did not improve its breath. Some of the +engines I noticed at this end of the line +were Baldwin locomotives, a make which +I had not seen since we had left Khabaroffsk, +on the further side of far Siberia.</p> + +<p>On the eighth and last day of our journey +on the “Siberian Special,” as our train +was called in railroad nomenclature, we +passed through the large and commanding +town of Toula, a great railroad centre, +and also famous for the splendor of +its churches. The stations we passed on +this day were finer than any we had yet +seen, and were often embowered in trees +until they looked like châteaus in lovely +green parks. Peasant women stood on +every platform with heaps of little wild +strawberries, which they sold at a ridiculously +cheap price, about two cents a quart. +Others had the first red cherries of the season, +and others yellow apples that had been +kept in water for nearly a year, and that +tasted as if baked. Other vendors of delicious, +sparkling koumyss, milk, Russian +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span> +kvass, and other more harmful beverages, +also appeared upon the scene at +many stations.</p> + +<p>The devout character of the Russians +was shown by the fact that every third-class +waiting-room had its shrine, with +beautifully framed pictures of Christ and +the Madonna and some of the Eastern +saints. Before these icons often burned +ceremonial candles, and smaller candles +were to be had by devotees for two or three +kopeks apiece. Rapt travellers, with uplifted +eyes, were often to be seen crossing +themselves before these icons.</p> + +<p>We still passed frequent trains of Siberian +settlers, and others of brawny soldiers, +“bearded like the pard,” and packed +into their fifth and sixth-class cars like +the proverbial sardines in their boxes. Occasionally +a train of prisoners looked out +through their iron gratings at us, seeming +to cast a murky shadow on the pleasant +landscape, as we thought of the dreary +years of exile before them. We saw no +political prisoners, however, and even the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span> +criminals are allowed to take their wives +and children with them. These latter often +clung to the iron bars with their faces +close against them, like so many infant +Charlotte Cordays. It must be said that +these prisoners, like others whom we had +seen, fared a good deal better in their railway +accommodations than the emigrants +or the soldiers.</p> + +<p>More and more cultivated and attractive +the beautiful country appeared as we approached +Moscow, giving evidence in every +smooth and fertile field of five hundred +years of tillage, until at last, promptly on +schedule time, 197 hours after leaving +Irkutsk, the Siberian Special rolled into +the beautiful station of sacred Moscow, +and our long journey across all the Russias +was practically finished. It is a matter +of thirteen hours further to St. Petersburg, +and two days more by the fastest +train to London. Thence six or seven +days more by one of the Atlantic liners to +New York, and our journey by this new +way around an old world was completed.</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="SOME_FACTS_AND_FIGURES"> + SOME FACTS AND FIGURES + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>As a multitude of friends and other correspondents +have asked me to give full +particulars concerning the time and cost +of this journey, I will add a few lines to +answer these natural inquiries.</p> + +<p>I was told by the most sanguine, before +starting, that the journey from Vladivostock +to Moscow could be made in +twenty-two days. I do not think that it +ever was, or can be, made in that length of +time, until the Trans-Baikal Railway is +greatly improved, and the Amour and +Shilka have a channel dredged through +their shallows; and that will be many a +long day yet.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp47" id="p1941_ill" style="max-width: 73.375em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1941_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + A SHRINE AT A RAILWAY STATION + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>As a matter of fact, the journey took +us thirty-eight days, and, allowing for +probable detentions by rail and river, it +cannot often be made in less time. If it +had not been for the kind personal interest +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span> +of the governor of Vladivostock, we should +have been much longer on the way than +we were. I can well imagine that the +trip might take three or four months instead +of as many weeks. The exact time +of the different divisions of our journey +was as follows:</p> + +<table class="miles"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +</td> +<th class="tdr"> +Days +</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Vladivostock to Khabaroffsk (rail) +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +1¼ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Khabaroffsk to Blagavestchensk (boat) +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +5½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Waited for steamer at Blagavestchensk +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +2  +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Blagavestchensk to Stretinsk (boat) +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +12½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Waited for train at Stretinsk +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +1½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Stretinsk to Irkutsk (rail) +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +6  +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Waited for train at Irkutsk +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +1  +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Irkutsk to Moscow (rail) +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +8½ +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl pl12"> +Total +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +38¼ +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>If we had found high water in the +Amour, we might have saved three days +on the river journey, and if the bridge on +the Trans-Baikal road had not burned +down so inopportunely, we might have +saved two days more, but it is difficult to +see how more than five or six days could +have been saved by the most favoring +combination of circumstances.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span></p> + +<p>I also heard many absurd rumors of +the cheapness of the journey across Siberia. +One Russian official of note told me +that the whole cost from Vladivostock to +Moscow, first-class, meals included, would +be one hundred and twenty roubles. I will +give the fares as they actually were paid, +leaving out the odd kopeks:</p> + + +<table class="miles"> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +</td> +<th class="tdr"> +Roubles +</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Vladivostock to Khabaroffsk +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +17 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Khabaroffsk to Blagavestchensk +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +23 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Blagavestchensk to Stretinsk +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +29 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Stretinsk to Irkutsk +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +18 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl"> +Irkutsk to Moscow +</td> +<td class="tdr bb"> +98 +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdl pl2"> +Total for fares (first-class) +</td> +<td class="tdr"> +183 +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p>To this must be added at least three +roubles a day for living expenses along +the road, even by those economically +inclined who drink no strong liquors, +which will add to the expense of a thirty-eight +days’ journey one hundred and fourteen +roubles, making the journey cost two +hundred and ninety-six roubles, or, in +round numbers, about one hundred and +fifty dollars in gold—not expensive, to be +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> +sure, for a six-thousand-mile trip, but not +so cheap as is usually thought.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="p1961_ill" style="max-width: 124.8125em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/p1961_ill.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + RUSSIAN TYPES + </figcaption> +</figure> + +<p>Those who are willing to travel in second-class +cars and steamer accommodations +can save nearly one hundred roubles, +or about fifty dollars, on the whole +journey. The second-class cars are entirely +comfortable, and very little poorer +than the first-class, but the second cabin +on the steamers is not to be recommended.</p> + +<p>I have very often been asked whether I +would advise others to take the journey. +That all depends upon their circumstances +and travel proclivities.</p> + +<p>For good sailors who do not mind a +long ocean voyage, the trip through the +Suez Canal is certainly easier and more +restful. For bad sailors and those who +fear the sea for any reason—and their +name is legion—the Trans-Siberian route +offers many compensations. Moreover, +if one can command his own time, and +is in no great haste to reach his journey’s +end at a fixed date, the Siberian journey +will prove far more attractive than to +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span> +those who are pressed with engagements +and must make schedule time, for +it is impossible to calculate exactly, or +even within a fortnight, the time that +may be taken. A pressing engagement +in London, which I almost missed +owing to the unexpected delays, detracted +not a little from the comfort of the journey +so far as I was concerned.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, in spite of the discomforts +and delays, I am exceedingly glad +to have taken the journey. It was an +experience never to be forgotten, and +furnished memory-pictures that will never +fade. I should advise any one with plenty +of time on his hands, who enjoys rail and +river travel, and who is not afraid of the +inevitable hardships of a new frontier +country, to go and do likewise.</p> + +<p>The journey I have described was +made at a most fortunate time, immediately +before the Chinese outbreak, +which may change the face of the world, +especially of the far Siberian world. +A week later, or a fortnight later at the +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span> +most, the journey would have been impossible +for many months. But doubtless +before my readers wish to take this new +way round the old world the “Yellow +Peril” will be overpassed, and the Trans-Siberian +route will be once more open +to the travelling public.</p> + +<p>In these annals I have purposely +omitted any extended reference to the +commercial and political importance of +the Trans-Siberian Railway, for the reading +public has been flooded with speculations +and facts, more or less accurate, +on this subject. There seems, then, to +be little need for their further exploitation. +Moreover, history, during the next decade, +will determine these matters much +more accurately than the wisest prophet +can forecast them to-day.</p> + +<p>When the Eastern Chinese Railway, +connecting with the Trans-Siberian road, +is opened—if the Mongolians, who are +showing such unexpected ferocity, ever +allow it to be opened—it will be possible, +perhaps, to go from Paris to Peking in +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span> +two weeks, or, in time, even in eleven +days, as Mr. A. R. Colquhoun, in his +excellent book, <cite>Overland to China</cite>, points +out.</p> + +<p>Even then, there will be many who +will desire to take the journey I have +described through the lordly domain +of Siberia, by rail and river from the +Pacific to the Atlantic, which for vastness +of extent along the same east and west +parallels, for variety of primeval scenery, +and for wideness of view over “this goodly +frame, the earth,” will never be surpassed.</p> + +<figure class="figcenter illowp97" id="map" style="max-width: 145.625em;"> + <img class="w100" src="images/map.jpg" alt=""> + <figcaption> + MAP SHOWING THE AUTHOR’S ROUTE FROM VLADIOSTOCK ACROSS SIBERIA TO ST. PETERSBURG + </figcaption> +</figure> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="Synopsis_of_the_Russian_Alphabet"> + Synopsis of the Russian Alphabet + </h2> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span></p> +</div> + +<table class="autotable alphabet"> +<tr> +<th class="tdc"> +Form. +</th> +<th class="tdc"> +Proper sound. +</th> +<th class="tdc"> +Name. +</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +А а +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +a <i>in</i> f<b>a</b>ther +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ah +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Б б +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +b <i>in</i> <b>b</b>utter +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +bey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +В в +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +v <i>in</i> <b>v</b>ein +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +vey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Г г +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +g <i>in</i> <b>g</b>one +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ghey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Д д +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +d <i>in</i> <b>d</b>one +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +dey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Е е +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ye <i>in</i> <b>y</b>et +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +yey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ж ж +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +z <i>in</i> a<b>z</b>ure +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +zhey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +З з +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +z <i>in</i> <b>z</b>one +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +zey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +И и +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +i <i>in</i> s<b>i</b>ck +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ee +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +І і +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +i <i>in</i> <b>i</b>ota +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ee +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Й й +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +i <i>in</i> o<b>i</b>l +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ee s’krátkoy +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +К к +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +k <i>in</i> k<b>i</b>n +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +kah +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Л л +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ll <i>in</i> do<b>ll</b>ar +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ell +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +М м +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +m <i>in</i> <b>m</b>an +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +emm +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Н н +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +n <i>in</i> <b>n</b>ote +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +enn +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +О о +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +o <i>in</i> n<b>o</b>t +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +oh +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +П п +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +p <i>in</i> <b>p</b>it +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +pey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Р р +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +rr <i>in</i> hu<b>rr</b>y +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +airr +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +С с +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +s <i>in</i> <b>s</b>afe +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ess +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Т т +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +t <i>in</i> <b>t</b>urn +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +tey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +У у +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +oo <i>in</i> m<b>oo</b>n +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +oo +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ф ф +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +f <i>in</i> <b>f</b>ine +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +eff +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Х х +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +<span class="blackletter">ch</span> <i>in</i> <span class="blackletter">Da<b>ch</b></span> +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +khah +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ц ц +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ts <i>in</i> wi<b>ts</b> +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +tsey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>Ч ч +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ch <i>in</i> <b>ch</b>arm +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +chey +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ш ш +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +sh <i>in</i> <b>sh</b>ut +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +shah +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Щ щ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +shtch <i>in</i> sma<b>sht-ch</b>ina +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +shtchah +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ъ ъ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +<i>mute</i> +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +<i>hard sign</i> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ы ы +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +<i>approximately</i> y <i>in</i> pit<b>y</b> +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +yairrwee +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ь ь +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +<i>half mute</i> +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +<i>soft sign</i> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ѣ ѣ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ye <i>in</i> <b>ye</b>t +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +yaht +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Э э +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +e <i>in</i> m<b>e</b>t +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +a +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ю ю +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +u <i>in</i> <b>u</b>niform +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +you +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Я я +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +ya <i>in</i> <b>y</b>ard +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +yah +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ѳ ѳ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +f <i>in</i> <b>f</b>ine +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +feetah +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tdc"> +Ѵ ѵ +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +i <i>in</i> s<b>i</b>ck +</td> +<td class="tdc"> +eezhitsa +</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter"> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204"></a><a id="Page_205"></a>[205]</span></p> + + + <h2 class="nobreak" id="SOME_NECESSARY_RUSSIAN_WORDS"> + SOME NECESSARY RUSSIAN WORDS + </h2> +</div> + + +<p>The following list of words, of course, does +not pretend to be an English-Russian vocabulary, +but simply the smallest possible number of words +which a traveller would need in crossing Siberia. +It would be well, of course, to know many more. +But it would be possible for the traveller to make +this journey with the limited means of communication +with his fellow-travellers, restaurant-keepers, +hotel-proprietors, train-men and steam-boat officials +that are here put at his disposal. As it is impossible, +of course, in a volume of this character to +give anything like a complete vocabulary, I have +thought that a very small fraction of a loaf was +better than no bread, and that this was not one of +the cases when a little knowledge (of Russian) was +a dangerous thing.</p> + + +<h3 id="Cardinal_Numbers"> + Cardinal Numbers +</h3> + +<div class='poetry-container'> +<p class='no-indent'> + одинъ, one.<br> + два, two.<br> + три, three.<br> + четыре, four.<br> + пять, five.<br> + шесть, six.<br> + семь, seven.<br> + восемь, eight.<br> + девять, nine.<br> + десять, ten. +</p></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span></p> + + +<h3 id="English-Russian_Vocabulary"> + English-Russian Vocabulary +</h3> + +<ul class="index"> + <li class="ifrst"><b>A</b>ble (to be), быть въ состояніи.</li> + <li class="indx">accident, несчастніе.</li> + <li class="indx">act (to), дѣйствовать.</li> + <li class="indx">address (direction), адресъ, надпись.</li> + <li class="indx">adieu, прощай, прощайте.</li> + <li class="indx">air, воздухъ.</li> + <li class="indx">all, весь, вся, все.</li> + <li class="indx">America, Америка.</li> + <li class="indx">animal, животный.</li> + <li class="indx">apartment, комната, квартира.</li> + <li class="indx">apple, яблоко.</li> + <li class="indx">April, апрѣль.</li> + <li class="indx">as, какъ, такъ, такъ какъ.</li> + <li class="indx">ask (to), спрашивать.</li> + <li class="indx">August, августъ.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>B</b>ag, кошелекъ.</li> + <li class="indx">baggage, багажъ.</li> + <li class="indx">barber, цирюльникъ.</li> + <li class="indx">bath, ванна.</li> + <li class="indx">bed (bedstead), постель, кровать.</li> + <li class="indx">bedroom, спальня.</li> + <li class="indx">beefsteak, бифштексъ.</li> + <li class="indx">bill (account), счетъ.</li> + <li class="indx">boat, лодка.</li> + <li class="indx">book, книга.</li> + <li class="indx">bookseller, книгопродавецъ.</li> + <li class="indx">boot, сапогъ, ботинка.</li> + <li class="indx">box (coffer), сундукъ.</li> + <li class="indx">bread, хлѣбъ.</li> + <li class="indx">breakfast, завтракъ.</li> + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span> +business, дѣло.</li> + <li class="indx">butter, масло (коровье).</li> + <li class="indx">button, пуговиця.</li> + <li class="indx">buy (to), покупать, купить.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>C</b>ab, дрожки.</li> + <li class="indx">cabman, извощикъ.</li> + <li class="indx">can (I), я могу.</li> + <li class="indx">carriage, карета, телѣга.</li> + <li class="indx">carry (to), носить, нести.</li> + <li class="indx">chair, стулъ.</li> + <li class="indx">chamber, комната.</li> + <li class="indx">China, Китай.</li> + <li class="indx">church, церковь.</li> + <li class="indx">city, городъ.</li> + <li class="indx">class, классъ, разрядъ.</li> + <li class="indx">clean (to), чистить.</li> + <li class="indx">clock (what o’—is it?), который часъ?</li> + <li class="indx">clothing, одежда, платье.</li> + <li class="indx">coachman, кучеръ.</li> + <li class="indx">coffee, кофей.</li> + <li class="indx">coffee-house, кофейня.</li> + <li class="indx">copeck, копейка, (копѣйка).</li> + <li class="indx">cost (to), стоить.</li> + <li class="indx">cure (to), лѣчить.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>D</b>ay, день.</li> + <li class="indx">December, Декабрь.</li> + <li class="indx">dentist, зубной врачъ.</li> + <li class="indx">dinner, обѣдъ.</li> + <li class="indx">dirty, грязний.</li> + <li class="indx">dish, блюдо, кушаніе.</li> + <li class="indx">do (to), дѣлать.</li> + <li class="indx">doctor, врачъ, лѣкарь, докторъ.</li> + <li class="indx">dress, пгатье.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span><b>E</b>at (to), ѣсть, кушать.</li> + <li class="indx">egg, яйцо.</li> + <li class="indx">engage (to), уговаривать.</li> + <li class="indx">enough, долвольно.</li> + <li class="indx">Europe, Европа.</li> + <li class="indx">express-train, курьерскій поѣздъ.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>F</b>ace, лицо.</li> + <li class="indx">fact, дѣло.</li> + <li class="indx">family, семейство.</li> + <li class="indx">farmer, фермеръ.</li> + <li class="indx">February, февраль.</li> + <li class="indx">first (at), сперва.</li> + <li class="indx">fish, рыба.</li> + <li class="indx">flour, мука.</li> + <li class="indx">flower, цвѣтъ, цвѣтокъ.</li> + <li class="indx">foreign, иностранный.</li> + <li class="indx">fork, вилка.</li> + <li class="indx">fowl, курица.</li> + <li class="indx">French, французскій.</li> + <li class="indx">Friday, пятница,</li> + <li class="indx">friend, пріятель, другъ.</li> + <li class="indx">fur, шуба, мѣхъ.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>G</b>irl, дѣвочка.</li> + <li class="indx">give(to), давать, дать.</li> + <li class="indx">glass (drinking), стаканъ.</li> + <li class="indx">glove, перчатка.</li> + <li class="indx">gold, золото.</li> + <li class="indx">good, добрый.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>H</b>alf, половина, полу ...</li> + <li class="indx">handkerchiefs, (носовой) платокъ.</li> + <li class="indx">hat, шлапа, шапка.</li> + <li class="indx">have (to), имѣть.</li> + <li class="indx">here, здѣсь.</li> + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span> +hill, холмъ.</li> + <li class="indx">horse, конь, лошадь.</li> + <li class="indx">hot, жаркій, горячій.</li> + <li class="indx">hotel, гостинница.</li> + <li class="indx">hour, часъ.</li> + <li class="indx">house, домъ, жилище.</li> + <li class="indx">how much, сколько.</li> + <li class="indx">hungry (to be—), быть голоднымъ.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>I</b>ce, ледъ.</li> + <li class="indx">ill (sick), больной.</li> + <li class="indx">important, важный.</li> + <li class="indx">impossible, невозможный.</li> + <li class="indx">inhabitant, житель, обитатель.</li> + <li class="indx">ink, чернила.</li> + <li class="indx">inn, гостинница.</li> + <li class="indx">instantly, немедленно.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>J</b>anuary, январь.</li> + <li class="indx">journal, журналъ.</li> + <li class="indx">July, Іюль.</li> + <li class="indx">June, Іюнь.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>K</b>ey, ключъ.</li> + <li class="indx">knife, ножъ, ножикъ.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>L</b>ady, госпожа.</li> + <li class="indx">lamp, лампа, лампада.</li> + <li class="indx">landlord, хозяинъ.</li> + <li class="indx">language, языкъ.</li> + <li class="indx">lantern, фонарь.</li> + <li class="indx">large, большой, широкій.</li> + <li class="indx">letter, письмо.</li> + <li class="indx">light, свѣтъ, сіяніе.</li> + <li class="indx">linen, бѣлье.</li> + <li class="indx">little (a), мало.</li> + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span> +lock, замокъ.</li> + <li class="indx">lodging, квартира.</li> + <li class="indx">lunch, закуска.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>M</b>ail, почта.</li> + <li class="indx">man, человѣкъ; men, люди.</li> + <li class="indx">many, многіе.</li> + <li class="indx">map, карта.</li> + <li class="indx">March, Мартъ.</li> + <li class="indx">matter (no), бсе равно.</li> + <li class="indx">May, Май.</li> + <li class="indx">meat, мясо.</li> + <li class="indx">mend (to), исправлять.</li> + <li class="indx">mile, миля.</li> + <li class="indx">milk, молоко.</li> + <li class="indx">minute, минута.</li> + <li class="indx">Monday, понедѣльникъ.</li> + <li class="indx">money, деньги, монета.</li> + <li class="indx">morning, утро.</li> + <li class="indx">morrow (to), завтра.</li> + <li class="indx">Moscow, Москва.</li> + <li class="indx">mother, мать.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>N</b>ame, имя.</li> + <li class="indx">needle, иголка.</li> + <li class="indx">never, никогда.</li> + <li class="indx">news, новость, извѣстіе.</li> + <li class="indx">newspaper, вѣдомость, газета.</li> + <li class="indx">night, ночь.</li> + <li class="indx">no, нѣетъ.</li> + <li class="indx">noon, полдень.</li> + <li class="indx">north, сѣверъ.</li> + <li class="indx">November, ноябрь.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>O</b>ctober, октябрь.</li> + <li class="indx">overcoat, пальто.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span><b>P</b>etersburg (Saint), (Санктъ) Петербургъ.</li> + <li class="indx">pillow, подушка.</li> + <li class="indx">plate, тарелка.</li> + <li class="indx">please (if you—), пожалуйста.</li> + <li class="indx">post-office, почтамтъ, почта.</li> + <li class="indx">potato, картофель.</li> + <li class="indx">promise (to), обѣщать.</li> + <li class="indx">pronounce (to), произносить.</li> + <li class="indx">province (Russ.), губернія.</li> + <li class="indx">purse, кошелекъ.</li> + <li class="indx">put (to), класть.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>Q</b>uarter, четверть.</li> + <li class="indx">quickly, скоро.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>R</b>ailroad, railway, желѣзная дорога.</li> + <li class="indx">railway-station, вокзалъ.</li> + <li class="indx">rain, дождь.</li> + <li class="indx">read (to), читать.</li> + <li class="indx">refreshment, освѣженіе.</li> + <li class="indx">registered (letter), заказное.</li> + <li class="indx">repair (to), поправлять.</li> + <li class="indx">rest (repose), отдыхъ.</li> + <li class="indx">river, рѣка.</li> + <li class="indx">road, дорога, путь.</li> + <li class="indx">room, комната.</li> + <li class="indx">Russia, Россія.</li> + <li class="indx">Russian, Россіянинъ, русскій.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>S</b>alt, соль.</li> + <li class="indx">Saturday, суббота.</li> + <li class="indx">say (to), сказать, говорить.</li> + <li class="indx">sea, море.</li> + <li class="indx">September, сентябрь.</li> + <li class="indx">sheet (bedlinen), простыня.</li> + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span> +Siberia, Сибирь.</li> + <li class="indx">silver, серебро.</li> + <li class="indx">soap, мыло.</li> + <li class="indx">soup, супъ, похлебка.</li> + <li class="indx">speak (to), говорить.</li> + <li class="indx">spoon, ложка.</li> + <li class="indx">stay (to), оставаться.</li> + <li class="indx">steamboat, steamer, пароходъ.</li> + <li class="indx">stocking, чулокъ, носокъ.</li> + <li class="indx">stove, печь, печка.</li> + <li class="indx">street, улица.</li> + <li class="indx">sufficient, достаточный.</li> + <li class="indx">sugar, сахаръ.</li> + <li class="indx">Sunday, воскресенье.</li> + <li class="indx">supper, ужинъ.</li> + <li class="indx">sweep (to), мести.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>T</b>able, столъ.</li> + <li class="indx">table-cloth, скатерть.</li> + <li class="indx">talk (to), разговаривать.</li> + <li class="indx">tea, чай.</li> + <li class="indx">thank (to), благодарить.</li> + <li class="indx">there is, вотъ.</li> + <li class="indx">thirsty, жаждущій.</li> + <li class="indx">Thursday, четвергъ.</li> + <li class="indx">ticket, билетъ.</li> + <li class="indx">towel, полотенце.</li> + <li class="indx">trunk (coffer), сундукъ.</li> + <li class="indx">Tuesday, вторникъ.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>V</b>egetables, овощи.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>W</b>agon, вагонъ, телѣга.</li> + <li class="indx">wait (to), ждать, пожидать.</li> + <li class="indx">waiter, служитель, человѣкъ.</li> + <li class="indx"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span> +waiting-room, (станціонная) зала.</li> + <li class="indx">waken (to), разбудить.</li> + <li class="indx">walk (to), гулять, ходить.</li> + <li class="indx">want (to), нуждаться, желать.</li> + <li class="indx">wash (to), мыть, обмывать.</li> + <li class="indx">washerwoman, прачка.</li> + <li class="indx">washstand, рукомойникъ.</li> + <li class="indx">water, вода.</li> + <li class="indx">way, путь, дорога.</li> + <li class="indx">Wednesday, среда.</li> + <li class="indx">what, что; какой; то что.</li> + <li class="indx">when, когда.</li> + <li class="indx">wish (to), желать.</li> + <li class="indx">woman, жена, женщина.</li> + <li class="indx">wood (fuel), дрова.</li> + <li class="indx">word, слово.</li> + <li class="indx">work (to), работать.</li> + <li class="indx">write (to), писать.</li> + + <li class="ifrst"><b>Y</b>es, да.</li> +</ul> + + +<p class='center mt2'> + THE END +</p> + + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> + +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_214"></a><a id="Page_215"></a><a id="Page_216"></a>[216]</span></p> +</div> + +<div class='pib'> +<h2 class='mt1 nobreak'> + S. W. PARTRIDGE & CO.’S<br> + CATALOGUE<br> + <span class='allsmcap fs90'>. . OF . .</span><br> + POPULAR ILLUSTRATED BOOKS.</h2> + +<p class='mt1 fs90 center'> + Classified according to Price. +</p> + +<hr class='r30'> + +<p class='center fs80 mb2'> + 8 & 9, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, E. C. +</p> +</div> + +<div class='advertisement'> +<h3 id="6s_each"> + 6s. each. +</h3> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Large Crown 8vo. Cloth Boards, gilt top.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Strong Man’s Love. By David Lyall. 344 pages. Twelve +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Old Readymoney’s Daughter. By L. T. Meade. 332 pages. +Twelve Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Letter Killeth. By A. C. Inchbold. 310 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ruth Gwynnett, Schoolmistress. By Morice Gerard. 332 +pages. Twelve Illustrations.</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<p class='hang1'>Japan: From the Old to the New. By R. G. Webster, LL.B., +J.P. With 16 Illustrations on art paper. Demy 8vo.</p> + + +<hr class='r30'> + +<h3 id="5s_each"> + 5s. each. +</h3> + +<p class='center'><span class="smcap">By</span> GEO. MANVILLE FENN.</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mth mbh'><i>Large Crown 8vo. Fully Illustrated. Cloth Boards, gilt edges.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dead Man’s Land; or, The Adventures of Certain and Uncertain +Whites and Blacks at Zimbambangwe, the Ancient Home +of Gold.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Trapper Dan: A Story of the Backwoods.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>To Win or to Die.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In the Mahdi’s Grasp.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In Honour’s Cause: A Tale of the Days of George the First.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Steve Young; or, The Voyage of the “Hvalross” to the Icy Seas.</p> + +<hr class='r15'> + +<p class='center mt1 mbh'> + <span class="smcap">By</span> ROBERT LEIGHTON. +</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cap’n Nat’s Treasure: A Tale of Old Liverpool. Eight Illustrations. +Large Crown 8vo. Cloth.</p> + +<hr class='r15'> +<p class='center mt1 mbh'> + <span class="smcap">By</span> G. A. HENTY. +</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cuthbert Hartington: A Tale of Two Sieges. Large +Crown 8vo. Six Illustrations. Cloth boards, gilt edges.</p> + +<hr class='r15'> +<p class='center mt1 mbh'> + <span class="smcap">By</span> E. F. POLLARD. +</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Scarlet Judges. Illustrated. Large Crown 8vo. Cloth +boards, gilt edges.</p> + +<hr class="r5"> + +<p class='hang1'>The Two Babylons; or, The Papal Worship proved to be the +Worship of Nimrod and his Wife. With 61 Illustrations from +Nineveh, Babylon, Egypt, Pompeii, etc. By the late Alexander +Hislop. Demy 8vo. Cloth extra.</p> + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="New_5-_Library"> + New 5/- Library. +</h3> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Demy 8vo. Of special bulk. Well Illustrated. Bound in handsome Cloth +Boards with full gilt edges. 5/- each.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cuthbert Hartington: A Tale of Two Sieges. By Geo. A. Henry.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Lady of the Forest. By L. T. Meade.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>True Unto Death: A Story of Russian Life. By E. F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Better Part. By Annie S. Swan.</p> + + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="3s_6d_each"> + 3s. 6d. each. +</h3> + +<p class='fs80 mbh center'><i>Handsomely bound in Cloth Boards, with gilt top.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Old Wenyon’s Will. By John Ackworth. Large Crown 8vo. +Twelve Illustrations. 344 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>More than Money. By A. St. John Adcock. Twelve Illustrations. +Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Those Berkeley Girls. By Lillias Campbell Davidson. Twenty-four +Illustrations. Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Awakening of Helena Thorpe. By E. Rentoul Esler +Large Crown 8vo. Eight Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Parting of the Ways. By J. L. Hornibrook. Twelve +Illustrations. Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Lion of Wessex; or, How Saxon fought Dane. By Tom +Bevan. Large Crown 8vo. Eight Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Hero King: A Romance of the Days of Alfred the Great. By +Eliza F. Pollard. Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Three-Cornered House. By the Author of “Everybody’s +Friend.” Illustrated. Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Casque and Cowl: A Tale of the French Reformation. By +F. M. Cotton Walker. 364 pages. Four Illustrations. Large +Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Lady of High Degree. By Jennie Chappell. Large Crown +8vo. Illustrated.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Gentleman of England. A Story of the Time of Sir Philip +Sidney. By Eliza F. Pollard. Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Pilgrims of the Night. By Sarah Doudney. Frontispiece. +Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Skeleton Reef. A Sea Story. By Hugh St. Leger. Large +Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Scuttling of the “Kingfisher.” By Alfred E. Knight. +Frontispiece. Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Missing Million. A Tale of Adventure in Search of a +Million Pounds. By E. Harcourt Burrage. Large Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Among Hills and Valleys in Western China. By Hannah +Davies. Demy 8vo. 326 pages. Fifty Illustrations from photos, +and Large Map. Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Story of the Bible. Arranged in Simple Style for Young +People. <i>New Edition.</i> Demy 8vo. 620 pages. Eight beautiful +pictures in colours, and more than 100 other Illustrations. Cloth +extra, 3s. 6d. Gilt edges, bevelled boards, 4s. 6d.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Pilgrim’s Progress. By John Bunyan. Illustrated with +55 full-page and other Engravings, drawn by Frederick Barnard, +J. D. Linton, W. Small, and engraved by Dalziel Brothers. +Crown 4to. Cloth extra, 3s. 6d. Gilt edges, 5s. Padded Watered +Silk, 6s. 6d.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Come, Break your Fast: Daily Meditations for a Year. By +Rev. Mark Guy Pearse. 544 pages. Large Crown 8vo. Cloth +extra.</p> + + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="2s_6d_each"> + 2s. 6d. each. +</h3> + + +<p class='no-indent fs110 mt1 u'> + “<i>Girls’ Imperial Library.</i>” +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mth mbh'><i>By Popular Authors. Large Crown 8vo. 332 pages. 6 Illustrations, +printed in photo brown. Handsomely bound in Cloth Boards.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Gladys’s Repentance; or, Two Girls and a Fortune. By Edith +C. Kenyon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ursula; or, “A Candidate for the Ministry.” By Laura A. Barter-Snow.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Uncle Joshua’s Heiress; or, Which shall it be? By Lillias +Campbell Davidson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Molly: The Story of a Wayward Girl. By Harriet E. Colville, +Author of “My Grandmother’s Album.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Love’s Golden Thread. By Edith C. Kenyon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sydney Lisle; or, The Heiress of St. Quentin. By Dorothea +Moore.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Fortunes of Eight; or, The House in Harford Place. By +Isabel Suart Robson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Little Missis. By Charlotte Skinner.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Girl’s Battle. By Lillias Campbell Davidson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Girl In a Thousand. By Edith C. Kenyon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Agnes Dewsbury. By Laura A. Barter-Snow.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Monica’s Choice. By Flora E. Berry.</p> + + +<p class='no-indent fs110 mt1 u'> + <i>“Red Mountain” Series.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mth mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. 320 pages. Illustrated. Handsomely Bound in Cloth Boards.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Rob Harlow’s Adventures: A Story of the Grand Chaco. By +Geo. Manville Fenn.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Master of Dunholme. By W. Scott King.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Boy of the First Empire. By Elbridge S. Brooks. (Superior +binding, gilt top, 3s. 6d.)</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Smoking Flax. By Silas K. Hocking. Twelve Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Boy’s Life of Nelson. By J. Cuthbert Hadden. Large +Crown 8vo. 300 pages. Beautiful coloured frontispiece and eight +illustrations on art paper.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In the Misty Seas: A Story of the Sealers of Behring Strait. +By Harold Bindloss.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Two Barchester Boys: A Tale of Adventure in the Malay +States. By K. M. Eady.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>True Grit: A Story of Adventure in West Africa. By Harold +Bindloss. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Yellow Shield; or, A Captive in the Zulu Camp. By +William Johnston. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Firebrands of the Caspian: The Story of a Bold Enterprise. +By F. M. Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Desert Scout: A Tale of Arabi’s Revolt. By Wm. Johnston.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cormorant Crag: A Tale of the Smuggling Days. By G. Manville +Fenn. Eight Illustrations by W. Rainey, R.I.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>One of the Tenth: A Tale of the Royal Hussars. By William +Johnston. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lost in the Slave Land; or, The Mystery of the Sacred Lamp +Rock. By W. M. Graydon. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ice-Bound; or, The Anticosti Crusoes. By Edward Roper, +F.R.G.S. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>On Winding Waters: A Tale of Adventure and Peril. By +William Murray Graydon. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Under the Sirdar’s Flag. By William Johnston. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dorothy: The Coombehurst Nightingale. By E. M. Alford.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Boy from Cuba: A School Story. By Walter Rhoades.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Fighting Lads of Devon: or, In the Days of the Armada. +By William Murray Graydon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Trip to Many Lands. By W. J. Forster. Illustrated with 26 +full-page Pictures. 4to. Cloth gilt.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Crystal Hunters: A Boy’s Adventures in the Higher Alps. +By G. Manville Fenn.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>First in the Field: A Story of New South Wales. By G. +Manville Fenn. 416 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Great Works by Great Men: The Story of Famous Engineers +and their Triumphs. By F. M. Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Lady of the Forest. By L. T. Meade.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Red Mountain of Alaska. By Willis Boyd Allen.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Two Henriettas. By Emma Marshall.</p> + + +<p class='no-indent fs110 mt1 u'> + <i>Popular Works by Miss Charlotte Murray.</i> +</p> + +<p class='hang1'>From School to Castle. By Charlotte Murray. Illustrated. +Large Crown 8vo. Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Coral: A Sea Waif and her Friends. 268 pages. Six Illustrations. +Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Stuart’s Choice; or, Castleton’s “Prep.” Crown 8vo. 288 +pages. Six Illustrations. Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Muriel Malone; or, From Door to Door. Illustrated. Crown +8vo. 272 pages. Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Through Grey to Gold. Crown 8vo. 280 pages. Six Illustrations. +Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Love Conquereth; or, The Mysterious Trespasser. (<i>See under +Home Library. 2s.</i>)</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Wardlaugh; or, Workers Together. (<i>See under Home Library. 2s.</i>)</p> + + +<p class='hang3 mt1'><span class='fs110 u'><i>Ferrar Fenton’s Translations of the Holy Scriptures +in Modern English.</i></span> 2s. 6d. each <i>net</i>.</p> + +<table class='hsme'> +<tr> +<td class='tdl'>Vol.</td> +<td class='tdr'> I.—</td><td class='tdl'>The Five Books of Moses.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='tdl'>Vol.</td> +<td class='tdr'> II.—</td><td class='tdl'>The History of Israel.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='tdl'>Vol.</td> +<td class='tdr'> III.—</td><td class='tdl'>The Books of the Prophets.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='tdl'>Vol.</td> +<td class='tdr'> IV.—</td><td class='tdl'>The Psalms, Solomon, and Sacred Writers.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='tdl'>Vol.</td> +<td class='tdr'> V.—</td><td class='tdl'>The New Testament.</td> +</tr></table> + +<p class='hang1'> + The Complete Bible in Modern English. Incorporating the + above five volumes. Cloth extra, gilt top. 10s. net. +</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<p class='hang1'>James Flanagan: The Story of a Remarkable Career. By +Dennis Crane. Crown 8vo. Fully Illustrated. Cloth boards. +2s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Earnest Life. By Silas K. Hocking. Crown 8vo. 192 +pages. With portrait and autograph. Handsomely bound in +cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Stories of Self-Help: Recent and Living Examples of Men +Risen from the Ranks. By John Alexander. Well Illustrated.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Young Man’s Mind. By J. A. Hammerton. Crown 8vo. +Cloth extra, gilt top.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Romance of the Bible. The Marvellous History of the +British and Foreign Bible Society. By Charles F. Bateman. +Crown 8vo. Cloth.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Crown and Empire: A Popular Account of the Lives, Public +and Domestic, of Edward VII. and Queen Alexandra. By Alfred +E. Knight. Large Crown 8vo. 336 pages. Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>My Dogs in the Northland. By Egerton R. Young. 288 pages. +Many Illustrations. Crown 8vo. Cloth.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Our Rulers from William the Conqueror to Edward VII. +By J. Alexander. Foolscap 4to. Cloth gilt. Sixty beautiful +Illustrations. Attractively bound.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Great Siberian Railway: What I saw on my Journey. By +Dr. F. E. Clark. Crown 8vo. 213 pages. Sixty-five First-class +Illustrations on art paper, and a Map. Handsomely bound.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Chaplains at the Front. By One of Them. Incidents in the +Life of a Chaplain during the Boer War, 1899–1900. By Owen +Spencer Watkins, Acting Wesleyan Chaplain to His Majesty’s +Forces. Crown 8vo. 334 pages. Handsomely bound.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lord Roberts of Kandahar, V.C.: The Life-Story of a Great +Soldier. By Walter Jerrold. Crown 8vo. Eight Illustrations. +Handsomely bound in cloth boards. 2s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sir Redvers H. Buller, V.C.: The Story of His Life and Campaigns. +By Walter Jerrold. Crown 8vo. 218 pages. With +8 Illustrations. 2s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Following Jesus: A Bible Picture Book for the Young. Size, +13½ by 10 inches. Contains 12 beautifully coloured Old and New +Testament Scenes, with appropriate letterpress by D.J.D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Brought to Jesus: A Bible Picture Book for Little Readers. +Containing 12 New Testament Scenes, printed in colours. Size, +13½ by 10 inches. Handsome coloured boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bible Pictures and Stories: Old and New Testament. In one +Volume. Bound in handsome cloth, with 89 full-page Illustrations +by Eminent Artists.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Light for Little Footsteps; or, Bible Stories Illustrated. With +beautiful coloured Cover and Frontispiece. Full of Pictures. Size, +13½ by 10 inches.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Potters: their Arts and Crafts. Historical, Biographical and +Descriptive. By John C. Sparks and Walter Gandy. Crown 8vo. +Copiously Illustrated. Cloth extra.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Story of Jesus. For Little Children. By Mrs. G. E. +Morton. <i>New Edition.</i> Large 8vo. 340 pages. Eight pictures +in best style of colour-work, and many other Illustrations. Handsomely +bound in cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Victoria: Her Life and Reign. By Alfred E. Knight. Crown +8vo. 384 pages. Cloth extra, 2s. 6d.; fancy cloth, gilt edges, +3s. 6d.</p> + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="2s_each"> + 2s. each. +</h3> + +<p class='hang3 mt1 u fs110'><i>The Home Library.</i></p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh mth'><i>Crown 8vo. 320 pages. Handsome Cloth Covers. +Fully Illustrated.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>By Bitter Experience: A Story of the Evils of Gambling. By +Scott Graham.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Love Conquereth; or, The Mysterious Trespasser. By +Charlotte Murray.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>White Ivory and Black, and other Stories of Adventure by Sea +and Land. By Tom Bevan, E. Harcourt Burrage, and John +Higginson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Adventures of Don Lavington; or, In the Days of the +Press Gang. By G. Manville Fenn.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Roger the Ranger: A Story of Border Life among the Indians. +By E. F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Brave Brothers; or, Young Sons of Providence. By E. M. +Stooke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Moat House; or, Celia’s Deceptions. By Eleanora H. +Stooke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The White Dove of Amritzir: A Romance of Anglo-Indian +Life. By E. F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In Battle and Breeze: Sea Stories by G. A. Henty, G. Manville +Fenn, and J. Higginson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Crag Island; or The Mystery of Val Stanlock. By W. Murray +Graydon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Wild Bryonie. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Edwin, the Boy Outlaw; or, The Dawn of Freedom in England. +A Story of the Days of Robin Hood. By J. Frederick Hodgetts.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Manco, the Peruvian Chief. By W. H. G. Kingston. Illustrated +by Lancelot Speed.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Neta Lyall. By Flora E. Berry, Author of “In Small Corners,” +etc. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Robert Aske: A Story of the Reformation. By E. F. Pollard. +Eight Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Burleigh’s Sacrifice. By Mrs. Charles Garnett. Nineteen +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Lion City of Africa. By Willis Boyd Allen. Sixteen +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Aveline’s inheritance. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ben-Hur. By L. Wallis.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Better Part. By Annie S. Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cousin Mary. By Mrs. Oliphant.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dorothy’s Training; or, Wild-flower or Weed? By Jennie +Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Grace Ashleigh; or, His Ways are Best. By Mary D. R. +Boyd.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Honor: A Nineteenth-Century Heroine. By E. M. Alford.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Her Saddest Blessing. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Inca’s Ransom: A Story of the Conquest of Peru. By +Albert Lee.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John: A Tale of the Messiah. By K. Pearson Woods.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Jacques Hamon; or, Sir Philip’s Private Messenger. By Mary +E. Ropes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Leaders into Unknown Lands: Being Chapters of recent +Travel. By A. Montefiore-Brice, F.G.S., F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lights and Shadows of Forster Square. By Rev. E. H. +Sugden, M.A.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Last Earl Grahame. By Rev. J. M. Dryerre, LL.B., +F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Martyr of Kolin; A Story of the Bohemian Persecution. +By H. O. Ward.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Morning Dew-Drops: A Temperance Text Book. By Clara +Lucas Balfour.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Mark Desborough’s Vow. By Annie S. Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Norman’s Nugget. By J. Macdonald Oxley, B.A.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Puritan Wooing: A Tale of the Great Awakening in New +England. By Frank Samuel Child.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Petrel Darcy; or, In Honour Bound. By T. Corrie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Polar Eden; or, The Goal of the “Dauntless.” By Charles +R. Kenyon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Strait Gate. By Annie S. Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Spanish Maiden: A Story of Brazil. By Emma E. Hornibrook.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Wardlaugh; or, Workers Together. By Charlotte Murray.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Wreck of the “Providence.” By Eliza F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Alfred the Great: The Father of the English. By Jesse Page.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 mt1 u'> + <i>Library of Standard Works by Famous Authors.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mth mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. Bound in handsome Cloth Boards. Well illustrated.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Old Lieutenant and His Son. By Norman McLeod.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Coral Island. By R. M. Ballantyne.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Nettie’s Mission. Stories Illustrative of the Lord’s Prayer. +By Alice Gray.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Home Influence: A Tale for Mothers. By Grace Aguilar.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Gorilla Hunters. By R. M. Ballantyne.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>What Katy Did. By Susan Coolidge.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Peter the Whaler. By W. H. G. Kingston. 300 pages. Six +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Melbourne House. By Susan Warner. 452 pages. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Lamplighter. By Miss Cummins. 444 pages. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Grimm’s Fairy Tales. Carefully chosen from the Tales collected +by the Brothers Grimm. Twelve Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Swiss Family Robinson: Adventures on a Desert Island. +Twelve Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Tom Brown’s School-Days. By an Old Boy. 344 pages. +Twelve Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Little Women and Good Wives. By Louisa M. Alcot. 450 +pages. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Wide, Wide World. By Susan Warner. 478 pages. Six +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Danesbury House. By Mrs. Henry Wood. 332 pages. Six +Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Stepping Heavenward. By E. Prentiss. 332 pages. Six Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Halifax, Gentleman. By Mrs. Craik. 540 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Life and Adventures of Robinson Crusoe. By Daniel Defoe.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Naomi; or, The Last Days of Jerusalem. By Mrs. Webb.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Pilgrim’s Progress. By John Bunyan. 416 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Uncle Tom’s Cabin. By Harriet Beecher Stowe.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Westward Ho! By Chas. Kingsley.</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<p class='hang1'>Bunyan’s Folk of To-day; or, The Modern Pilgrim’s Progress. +By Rev. J. Reid Howatt. Twenty Illustrations. Crown 8vo. Cloth +extra.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sunday Afternoons with My Scholars. By J. Attenborough. +With portrait. Crown 8vo. 290 pages. Cloth gilt.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bible Light for Little Pilgrims. A Coloured Scripture Picture +Roll. Contains 12 beautifully coloured Old and New Testament +Scenes, with appropriate texts. Varnished cover printed in 10 +colours. Mounted on Roller for hanging.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Kwang Tung; or, Five Years in South China. By Rev. J. A. +Turner. Eight Illustrations. Map. Imperial 8vo. 176 pages. +Cloth gilt. 2s. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Platform, Pulpit and Desk; or, Tools for Workers. Being +148 Outline Addresses on all Phases of the Temperance Movement +for all Ages and Classes. By W. N. Edwards, F.C.S. With an +Introduction by Canon Barker. Crown 8vo. 300 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Pleasant Half Hours; or, Thoughts for Men. By Rev. E. H. +Sugden, M.A. Crown 8vo. 224 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bible Picture Roll. Containing a large Engraving of a Scripture +Subject, with letterpress, for each day in the month. Mounted on +Roller for hanging.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Love, Courtship, and Marriage. By Rev. F. B. Meyer, B.A. +Crown 8vo. 152 pages. Embellished cloth cover. 2s. net. Full +gilt edges, 2s. 6d. net.</p> + + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="1s_6d_each"> + 1s. 6d. each. +</h3> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'><i>Partridge’s Eighteenpenny Series</i></p> + +<p class='center fs80'><span class="smcap">Of Charming Stories for Holiday and Fireside Reading.</span></p> + +<p class='center fs80 mth mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. 160 pages. Well Illustrated and Attractively Bound.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>A String of Pearls. By E. F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Elsie Macgregor; or, Margaret’s Little Lass. By Ramsay Guthrie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Lady of the Chine. By M. S. Haycraft.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Carola’s Secret. By Ethel F. Heddle.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Home of His Fathers. By Lillias Campbell Davidson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Great Patience. By L. Moberley.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In the Bonds of Silence. By J. L. Hornibrook.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Late Repentance. By Hannah B. Mackenzie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Shepherds and Sheep. By E. Stuart-Langford.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Golden Doors. By M. S. Haycraft.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Noble Champion. By David Hobbs.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> + <i>The Up-to-date Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mth'><i>Of Thick Crown 8vo. Volumes. 320 pages. Many Illustrations. +Cloth Boards.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Without a Thought; or, Dora’s Discipline. By Jennie +Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Edith Oswald; or, Living for Others. By Jane M. Kippen.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Bunch of Cherries. By J. W. Kirton.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Village Story. By Mrs. G. E. Morton.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Eagle Cliff. By R. M. Ballantyne.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>More Precious than Gold. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Slave Raiders of Zanzibar. By E. Harcourt Burrage.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ester Ried. By Pansy.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Avice: a Story of Imperial Rome. By E. F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The King’s Daughter. By Pansy.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Foster Brothers; or, Foreshadowed. By Mrs. Morton.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Household Angel. By Madeline Leslie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Green Mountain Boys: a Story of the American War of +Independence. By E. F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Way in the Wilderness. By Maggie Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Miss Elizabeth’s Niece. By M. S. Haycraft.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Man of the House. By “Pansy.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Olive Chauncey’s Trust: a Story of Life’s Turning Points. +By Mrs. E. R. Pitman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Whither Bound? a Story of Two Lost Boys. By Owen Landor.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Three People. By “Pansy.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Chrissy’s Endeavour. By “Pansy.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Young Moose Hunters. By C. A. Stephens.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Eaglehurst Towers. By Emma Marshall.</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<p class='hang1'>Chilgoopie the Glad: a Story of Korea and her Children. By +Jean Perry. With eight Illustrations on art paper, and bound in +cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Man in Grey; or, More about Korea. By Jean Perry. +Crown 8vo. Illustrated. Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>More Nails for Busy Workers. By C. Edwards, Author of “A +Box of Nails for Busy Christian Workers,” etc. Crown 8vo. 196 +pages. Cloth boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Queen Alexandra: the Nation’s Pride. By Mrs. C. N. +Williamson. Crown 8vo. Tastefully bound, 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>King and Emperor: the Life-History of Edward VII. By +Arthur Mee. Crown 8vo. Cloth boards. 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>William McKinley: Private and President. By Thos. Cox +Meech. Crown 8vo. 160 pages, with Portrait, 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Studies of the Man Christ Jesus. His Character, His Spirit, +Himself. By R. E. Speer. Cloth, gilt top. 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Studies of the Man Paul. By Robert E. Speer. Long 8vo. +304 pages. Cloth gilt. 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Angel and the Demon; and other Stories. By E. Thorneycroft +Fowler. Cloth gilt. Eight Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Measuring Eye. By E. Stuart-Langford. Illustrated. Cloth +boards.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Wellington: the Record of a Great Military Career. By A. E. +Knight. Crown 8vo. Cloth gilt, with Portrait, 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Hector Macdonald; or, The Private who became a General. By +T. F. G. Coates. Crown 8vo. Cloth gilt, with Portrait. 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Baden-Powell: The Hero of Mafeking. By W. Francis Aitken. +Crown 8vo. Cloth gilt, with Portrait. 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Every-day Life in South Africa. By E. E. K. Lowndes. Crown +8vo. Illustrated. Cloth boards, 1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Royal Life. By Rev. J. C. Carlile. Crown 8vo. 128 pages. +Cloth gilt.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Insects: Foes and Friends. By W. Egmont Kirby, M.D., F.L.S. +32 pages of Coloured Illustrations. Cloth boards.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'><i>The British Boys’ Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Fully Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 168 pages. Cloth extra.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Adventures of Ji. By G. E. Farrow, Author of “The +Wallypug of Why.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Missionary Heroes: Stories of Heroism on the Missionary Field. +By C. D. Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Andrew Bennett’s Harvest; or, The Shadow of God’s Providence. +By Lydia Phillips.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Brown Al; or, A Stolen Holiday. By E. M. Stooke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Pigeons’ Cave: A Story of Great Orme’s Head in 1806. +By J. S. Fletcher.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Robin the Rebel. By H. Louisa Bedford.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Runaway Rollo. By E. M. Stooke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Success: Chats about Boys who have Won it. By C. D. +Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Well Done! Stories of Brave Endeavour. Edited by C. D. +Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Wonder Seekers. By Henry J. Barker, M.A.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Little Soldiers. By Kate L. Mackley.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Will; or, That Boy from the Union. By Lydia Phillips.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Heroes All! A Book of Brave Deeds for British Boys. Edited +by C. D. Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Noble Deeds: Stories of Peril and Heroism. Edited by C. D. +Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Armour Bright: The Story of a Boy’s Battles. By Lucy +Taylor.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ben: A Story of Life’s Byways. By Lydia Phillips.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Major Brown; or, Whether White or Black, a Man. By Edith +S. Davis.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Jack. A Story of a Scapegrace. By E. M. Bryant.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Hubert Ellerdale: A Tale of the Days of Wicliffe. By W. +Oak Rhind.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>The British Girls’ Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Fully Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 160 pages. Cloth extra.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Mystery Baby; or, Patsy at Fellside. By Alice M. Page.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Zillah, the Little Dancing Girl. By Mrs. Hugh St. Leger.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Patsie’s Bricks. By L. S. Mead.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Salome’s Burden; or, The Shadow on the Homes. By Eleanora +H. Stooke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Heroines: True Tales of Brave Women. By C. D. Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Granny’s Girls. By M. B. Manwell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Mousey; or, Cousin Robert’s Treasure. By Eleanora H. +Stooke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Marigold’s Fancies. By L. E. Tiddeman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>“Our Phyllis.” By M. S. Haycraft.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Lady of Greyham; or, Low in a Low Place. By Emma +E. Hornibrook.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Gipsy Queen. By Emma Leslie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Kathleen; or, A Maiden’s Influence. By Julia Hack.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Rajah’s Daughter; or, The Half-Moon Girl. By Bessie +Marchant.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In Self-Defence. By Julia Hack.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Regia; or, Her Little Kingdom. By E. M. Waterworth and +Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Una’s Marriage. By Mrs. Haycraft.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Tephi: An Armenian Romance. By Cecilia M. Blake.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Christabel’s Influence. By J. Goldsmith Cooper.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Queen of the Isles. By Jessie M. E. Saxby.</p> + + +<hr class='r15'> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'> <i>Picture Books.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Size 9 by 7 inches. Coloured and numerous other Illustrations. Handsome +Coloured Cover, Paper Boards with Cloth Back.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Happy and Gay: Pictures and Stories for Every Day. By +D. J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Pleasures and Joys for Girls and Boys. By D. J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Anecdotes of Animals and Birds. By Uncle John.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Stories of Animal Sagacity. By D. J. D.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>“The World’s Wonders” Series.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mth'><i>Crown 8vo. 160 pages. Copiously Illustrated. Handsome Cloth Covers.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Conquest of the Air: The Romance of Aerial Navigation. +By John Alexander.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Surgeons and their Wonderful Discoveries. By F. M. +Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Life-Boat: Its History and Heroes. By F. M. Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Firemen and their Exploits. With an Account of Fire Brigades +and Appliances. By F. M. Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Romance of the Savings Banks. By Archibald G. +Bowie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Romance of Glass Making. A Sketch of the History of +Ornamental Glass. By W. Gandy.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Romance of the Post-Office: its Inception and Wondrous +Development. By Archibald G. Bowie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Marvels of Metals. By F. M. Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Triumphs of the Printing Press. By Walter Jerrold.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Electricians and their Marvels. By Walter Jerrold.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Musicians and their Compositions. By J. R. Griffiths.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Naturalists and their Investigations. By George Day, F.R.M.S.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>Devotional Classics.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>A New Series of Devotional Books by Standard Authors. Well printed on +good paper. Size 6¼ by 4¼ inches. Beautifully bound in +Cloth Boards. 1s. 6d. each</i>, <span class="smcap">Net</span>.<br> +(<i>Not illustrated.</i>)</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Imitation of Christ. By Thomas à Kempis.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Holy War. By John Bunyan.</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<p class='hang1'>Letters on the Simple Life. By the Queen of Roumania, Marie +Corelli, Madame Sarah Grand, “John Oliver Hobbes,” Sir A. +Conan Doyle, The Bishop of London, Canon Hensley Henson, +Sir J. Crichton Browne. Rev. S. Baring-Gould, Dr. Robertson +Nicoll, etc. Crown 8vo. 160 pages. With Autographs of contributors +in fac-simile. Imitation Linen, 1s, net. Cloth boards, +1s. 6d. net. (Not illustrated.)</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'><i>Popular Missionary Biographies.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. 160 pages. Cloth extra. Fully Illustrated.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Christianity of the Continent: a Retrospect and a +Review. By Jesse Page, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Missionaries I have met, and the work they have done. +By Jesse Page. F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>James Chalmers, Missionary and Explorer of Rarotonga and +New Guinea. By William Robson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Griffith John, Founder of the Hankow Mission, Central China. +By William Robson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Robert Morrison: The Pioneer of Chinese Missions. By William +J. Townsend.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Amid Greenland Snows; or, The Early History of Arctic +Missions. By Jesse Page. F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bishop Patteson: The Martyr of Melanesia. By same Author.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Captain Allen Gardiner: Sailor and Saint. By same Author.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Congo for Christ: The Story of the Congo Mission. By +Rev. J. B. Myers. <i>New Edition</i>, brought up to date.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>David Brainerd, the Apostle to the North-American Indians. +By Jesse Page. F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>David Livingstone: His Labours and his Legacy. By Arthur +Montefiore-Brice.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>From Kafir Kraal to Pulpit: The Story of Tiyo Soga, First +Ordained Preacher of the Kafir Race. By Rev. H. T. Cousins.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Japan: and its People. By Jesse Page, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Williams: The Martyr Missionary of Polynesia. By Rev. +James Ellis.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>James Calvert; or, From Dark to Dawn in Fiji. By R. Vernon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lady Missionaries in Foreign Lands. By Mrs. E. R. Pitman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Missionary Heroines in Eastern Lands. By Mrs. E. R. Pitman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Reginald Heber: Bishop of Calcutta, Author of “From Greenland’s +Icy Mountains.” By A. Montefiore-Brice. F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Robert Moffat: The Missionary Hero of Kuruman. By David +J. Deane.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Samuel Crowther: The Slave Boy who became Bishop of the +Niger. By Jesse Page, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Thomas J. Comber: Missionary Pioneer to the Congo. By +Rev. J. B. Myers.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>William Carey: The Shoemaker who became the Father and +Founder of Modern Missions. By Rev. J. B. Myers.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Henry Martyn. By Jesse Page, F.R.G.S.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'><i>Popular Biographies.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. Cloth Boards. Fully Illustrated.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Life-Story of Ira D. Sankey, The Singing Evangelist. By +David Williamson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Great Evangelists, and the Way God has Used Them. +By Jesse Page. Crown 8vo. 160 pages, with Portraits and Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Women who have Worked and Won. The Life Story of +Mrs. Spurgeon, Mrs. Booth-Tucker, F. R. Havergal, and Ramabai. +By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Bright: Apostle of Free Trade. By Jesse Page, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Two Stephensons. By John Alexander.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>J. Passmore Edwards: Philanthropist. By E. Harcourt Burrage.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dwight L. Moody: The Life-work of a Modern Evangelist. By +Rev. J. H. Batt.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Noble Work by Noble Women: Sketches of the Lives of the +Baroness Burdett-Coutts, Lady Henry Somerset, Miss Sarah Robinson, +Mrs. Fawcett, and Mrs. Gladstone. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Four Noble Women and their Work: Sketches of the Life and +Work of Frances Willard, Agnes Weston, Sister Dora, and Catherine +Booth. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Canal Boy who became President. By Frederic T. +Gammon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Florence Nightingale: The Wounded Soldiers’ Friend. By +Eliza F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Four Heroes of India: Clive, Warren Hastings, Havelock, +Lawrence. By F. M. Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>General Gordon: The Christian Soldier and Hero. By G. +Barnett Smith.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>W. E. Gladstone: England’s Great Commoner. By Walter +Jerrold. With Portrait and 38 other Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Heroes and Heroines of the Scottish Covenanters. By +J. Meldrum Dryerre, LL.B., F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Knox and the Scottish Reformation. By G. Barnett +Smith.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Philip Melancthon: The Wittemberg Professor and Theologian +of the Reformation. By David J. Deane.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sir John Franklin and the Romance of the North-West +Passage. By G. Barnett Smith.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Slave and his Champions: Sketches of Granville Sharp, +Thomas Clarkson, William Wilberforce, and Sir T. F. Buxton. By +C. D. Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>C. H. Spurgeon: His Life and Ministry. By Jesse Page, F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Two Noble Lives: John Wicliffe, the Morning Star of the +Reformation; and Martin Luther, the Reformer. By David J. +Deane. 208 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>William Tyndale: The Translator of the English Bible. By G. +Barnett Smith.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Marquess of Salisbury: His Inherited Characteristics, +Political Principles, and Personality. By W. F. Aitken.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Joseph Parker, D.D.: His Life and Ministry. By Albert +Dawson.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Hugh Price Hughes. By Rev. J. Gregory Mantle.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>R. J. Campbell, M.A.; Minister of the City Temple, London. +By Charles T. Bateman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dr. Barnardo: “The Foster-Father of Nobody’s Children.” By +Rev. J. H. Batt.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>W. Robertson Nicoll, LL.D.; Editor and Preacher. By Jane +Stoddart.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>F. B. Meyer: His Life and Work. By Jennie Street.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Clifford, M.A., B.Sc., LL.D., D.D. By Chas. T. Bateman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Thirty Years in the East End: A Marvellous Story of Mission +Work. By W. Francis Aitken.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Alexander Maclaren, D.D.: The Man and His Message. By +Rev. John C. Carlile.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lord Milner. By W. B. Luke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lord Rosebery, Imperialist. By J. A. Hammerton.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Joseph Chamberlain: A Romance of Modern Politics. By +Arthur Mee.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>General Booth: The Man and His Work. By Jesse Page, +F.R.G.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Torrey and Alexander: The Story of their Lives. By J. +Kennedy Maclean. Crown 8vo. Illustrated. Imitation cloth, +1s. net. Cloth boards, 1s. 6d. net.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>Illustrated Reward Books.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. 160 pages. Cloth extra. Fully Illustrated.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bethesda Chapel. A Story of the Good Old Times. By Rev. +C. Leach, D.D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Philip’s Inheritance; or, Into a Far Country. By F. Spenser.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Donald’s Victory. By Lydia Phillips.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Red Brick Cottage. By Lady Hope.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Marchester Stories. By Rev. C. Herbert.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sister Royal. By Mrs. Haycraft.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>“Onward” Temperance Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. Illustrated. Cloth extra.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dick’s Chum. By Miss M. A. Paull.</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>“This book is well written and illustrated. It is just the book for boys.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1'>We Girls. By Miss M. A. Paull.</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>“A capital book for girls—written by one who thoroughly understands them.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1'>Manor House Mystery. By Mrs. C. L. Balfour.</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>“It is written in excellent style, with a well-constructed plot, sparkling dialogue +and a faultless moral.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1'>The Bird Angel. By Miss M. A. Paull.</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>“One of Miss Paull’s most delightful stories.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1'>Lyndon the Outcast. By Mrs. Clara Lucas Balfour.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ronald Clayton’s Mistake. By Miss M. A. Paull.</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>“It is a capital book to place in the hands of working lads.”</p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1'>Nearly Lost, but Dearly Won. By Rev. T. P. Wilson, M.A., +Author of “Frank Oldfield,” etc.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Hoyle’s Popular Ballads and Recitations. By William Hoyle, +Author of “Hymns and Songs,” etc.</p> + +<blockquote> +<p>“A capital book for Sunday School, Temperance, and general Recitations.”</p> +</blockquote> + + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="1s_each"> + 1s. each. +</h3> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'><i>One Shilling Reward Books.</i></p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Fully Illustrated. Crown 8vo. Cloth extra.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>True Stories of Brave Deeds; or, What Boys and Girls can +Do. By Mabel Bowler.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Mystery of Marnie. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Gipsy Kit; or, The Man with the Tattooed Face. By Robert +Leighton.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dick’s Desertion; A Boy’s Adventures in Canadian Forests. +By Marjorie L. C. Pickthall.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Wild Swans; or, The Adventure of Rowland Cleeve. By +Mary C. Rowsell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>George & Co.; or, The Choristers of St. Anselm’s. By Spencer +T. Gibb.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Fern Dacre: A Minster Yard Story. By Ethel Ruth Boddy.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Caravan Cruises: Five Children in a Caravan—not to mention +Old Dobbin. By Phil Ludlow.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Other Pets and their Wild Cousins. By Rev. J. Isabell, F.E.S. +Many Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Little Chris the Castaway. By F. Spenser.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Children of the Priory. By J. L. Hornibrook.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Through Sorrow and Joy; or, The Story of an English Bible in +Reformation Times. By M. A. R.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Tom and the Enemy. By Clive R. Fenn.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ruth’s Roses; or, What Some Girls Did. By Laura A. Barter-Snow.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In Paths of Peril: A Boy’s Adventures in Nova Scotia. By +J. Macdonald Oxley.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Pets and their Wild Cousins: New and True Stories of +Animals. By Rev. J. Isabell, F.E.S.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Brother’s Need. By L. S. Mead. Crown 8vo. 128 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sunshine and Snow. By Harold Bindloss.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Donalblane of Darien. By J. Macdonald Oxley.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Crown Jewels. By Heather Grey.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>At the Bend of the Creek. By E. Gertrude and Annie A. Hart.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>All Play and No Work. By Harold Avery.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bernard or Ben? By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Always Happy; or, The Story of Helen Keller. By Jennie +Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Birdie and her Dog, and other Stories of Canine Sagacity. By +Miss Phillips (Mrs. H. B. Looker).</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bessie Drew; or, The Odd Little Girl. By Amy Manifold.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cola Monti; or, The Story of a Genius. By Mrs. Craik, Author +of “John Halifax, Gentleman.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Children of Cherryholme. By M. S. Haycraft.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Fatal Nugget. By E. Harcourt Burrage.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Frank Burleigh; or, Chosen to be a Soldier. By Lydia +Phillips.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Harold; or, Two Died for Me. By Laura A. Barter.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Indian Life in the Great North-West. By Egerton R. Young, +Missionary to the North American Indian Tribes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Jack the Conqueror; or Difficulties Overcome. By the +Author of “Dick and his Donkey.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Little Bunch’s Charge; or, True to Trust. By Nellie Cornwall.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lost in the Backwoods. By Edith C. Kenyon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Little Woodman and his Dog Cæsar. By Mrs. Sherwood.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Our Den. By E. M. Waterworth.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Paul the Courageous. By Mabel Quiller-Couch.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Roy’s Sister; or, His Way and Hers. By M. B. Manwell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Raymond’s Rival; or, Which will Win? By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sweet Nancy. By L. T. Meade.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Who was the Culprit? By Jennie Chappell.</p> + + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="1s_each_net"> + 1s. each net. +</h3> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'>(<i>Not Illustrated.</i>)</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Partridge’s Popular Reciter. Old Favourites and New. 208 +pages. Crown 8vo. Imitation Cloth, 1s. net; Cloth boards, +1s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Partridge’s Humorous Reciter (uniform with Partridge’s Popular +Reciter). Imitation Cloth, 1s. net; Cloth boards, 1s. 6d. net.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 mt1 u'><i>Cheap Reprints of Popular Books for the Young.</i> +</p> + +<p class='fs80 center mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. 160 pages. Illustrated. Cloth Boards, 1s. each.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Deeds of Daring; or, Stories of Heroism in Everyday Life. +By C. D. Michael.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Everybody’s Friend; or, Hilda Danver’s Influence. By Evelyn +Everett Green.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Bell Buoy; or, The Story of a Mysterious Key. By F. M. +Holmes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Saph’s Foster-Bairn. By Rev. A. Colbeck.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Vic: A Book of Animal Stories. By Alfred C. Fryer, Ph.D., +F.S.A.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In Friendship’s Name. By Lydia Phillips.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Nella; or, Not my Own. By Jessie Goldsmith Cooper.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Blossom and Blight. By M. A. Paull.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Aileen. By Laura A. Barter-Snow.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Satisfied. By Catherine Trowbridge.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ted’s Trust; or, Aunt Elmerley’s Umbrella. By Jennie +Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Candle Lighted by the Lord. By Mrs. E. Ross.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Alice Western’s Blessing. By Ruth Lamb.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Tamsin Rosewarne and Her Burdens: A Tale of Cornish +Life. By Nellie Cornwall.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Raymond and Bertha: A Story of True Nobility. By Lydia +Phillips.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Gerald’s Dilemma. By Emma Leslie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Fine Gold; or, Ravenswood Courtney. By Emma Marshall.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Marigold. By Mrs. L. T. Meade.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Jack’s Heroism. A Story of Schoolboy Life. By Edith C. +Kenyon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Lads of Kingston. A Tale of a Seaport Town. By +James Capes Story.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Her Two Sons: A Story for Young Men and Maidens. By +Mrs. Charles Garnett.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Rag and Tag: A Plea for the Waifs and Strays of Old +England. By Mrs. E. J. Whittaker.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Through Life’s Shadows. By Eliza F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Little Princess of Tower Hill. By L. T. Meade, Author +of “The Lady of the Forest.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Clovie and Madge. By Mrs. G. S. Reaney.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ellerslie House: A Book for Boys. By Emma Leslie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Like a Little Candle; or Bertrand’s Influence. By Mrs. +Haycraft.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Louie’s Married Life. By Sarah Doudney.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Martin Redfern’s Vow. By Ethel F. Heddle.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Dairyman’s Daughter. By Legh Richmond.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bible Wonders. By Rev. Dr. Newton.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Pilgrim’s Progress. By John Bunyan. 416 pages. Eight +coloured and 46 other Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Our Duty to Animals. By Mrs. C. Bray, Author of “Physiology +for Schools,” etc. Intended to teach the young kindness to +Animals.</p> + +<hr class='r15'> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'> + <i>“Onward” Temperance Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Crown 8vo. Illustrated. Cloth extra. 1s. each.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Western Waif. By Old Cornish.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Addy’s Two Lives. By Mrs. Ruth B. Yates.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Dudley’s Secret; or, The Gambler’s Daughter. By +Edward Armytage.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Suspected; or, Under a Cloud. By A. J. Glasspool.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Whispers to those who wish to Enjoy a Happy Life. By +Rev. Benj. Smith.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Snatched from Death. By Alfred J. Glasspool.</p> + +<hr class='r15'> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'> <i>Everyone’s Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='hang1 fs80 mbh'><i>A re-issue of Standard Works in a cheap form, containing from 320 +to 500 pages, printed in the best style; with Illustrations on art paper, +and tastefully bound in Cloth Boards. 1s. each.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Tom Brown’s Schooldays. By an Old Boy.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Wide, Wide World. By Susan Warner.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Life and Adventures of Robinson Crusoe. By Daniel Defoe.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Uncle Tom’s Cabin. By H. B. Stowe.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Old Lieutenant and His Son. By Norman McLeod.</p> + +<hr class='r15'> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'><i>Books for Christian Workers.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Large Crown 16mo. 128 pages. Chastely bound in Cloth Boards. +1s. each.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Master’s Messages to Women. By Charlotte Skinner.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Royal and Loyal: Thoughts on the Twofold Aspects of the +Christian Life. By Rev. W. H. Griffith-Thomas.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Thoroughness: Talks to Young Men. By Thain Davidson +D.D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Some Secrets of Christian Living. By Rev. F. B. Meyer.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Overcoming Life. By Rev. E. W. Moore.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Marks of the Master. By Charlotte Skinner.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Some Deeper Things. By Rev. F. B. Meyer.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Steps to the Blessed Life. By Rev. F. B. Meyer.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Daybreak in the Soul. By Rev. E. W. Moore.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Temptation of Christ. By C. Arnold Healing, M.A.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Keynotes to the Happy Life. By Charlotte Skinner.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>For Love’s Sake. By Charlotte Skinner.</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<p class='hang1'>Our Bands of Love and what we do there: Hints and Helps +in providing occupation for Children’s Classes. Compiled by +Mildred Duff. Full of illustrations. Cloth boards. 1s.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Ingatherings: A Dainty Book of Beautiful Thoughts. Compiled +by E. Agar. Cloth boards, 1s. (Paper covers, 6d. <i>net</i>.)</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Golden Words for Every Day. By M. Jennie Street. A +prettily illustrated Text Book for the Young.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Armour of Life. A Little Book of Friendly Counsel. +Edited by J. A. Hammerton. Foolscap 8vo. Ninety-six pages. +Cloth.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The New Cookery of Unproprietary Foods. By Eustace +Miles, M.A. 192 pages, 1s. <i>net</i>.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Child’s Book of Health. A Series of Illustrated and Easy +Lessons for Children and Parents on taking care of ourselves. By +Walter N. Edwards. F.C.S. 1s. <i>net</i>.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Hiram Golfs Religion. By George H. Hepworth, D.D., Author +of “The Life Beyond,” etc. 128 pages. Cloth gilt.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Eon the Good; and other Verses. By Charlotte Murray. +Crown 8vo.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Uncrowned Queens. By Charlotte Skinner. Small 8vo. 112 +pages. Cloth.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Victoria: the Well-Beloved. (1819–1901.) By W. Francis +Aitken. Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 152 pages. Cloth +boards.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'><i>New Series of One Shilling Picture Books.</i> +</p> + +<p class='hang1 fs80 mbh'><i>Size 10½ by 8 inches. 96 pages. Coloured Frontispiece and numerous other +illustrations. Handsomely bound in Paper Boards, covers printed in 10 +colours and varnished.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Trip to Storyland. By R. V.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Holiday Hours in Animal Land. By Uncle Harry.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bible Treasures. A Book of Old Testament Pictures in +colours. With suitable letterpress.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Animal Antics! By the Author of “In Animal Land with Louis +Wain.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Happy Days. By R. V.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Old Testament Heroes. By Mildred Duff.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Feed My Lambs. Fifty-two Bible Stories and Pictures. By the +Author of “The Friends of Jesus.”</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Jesus the Good Shepherd. A Book of Bible Pictures in +colours, with suitable letterpress.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Tell Me a Tale! A Picture Story Book for Little Children. +By J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Little Snow-Shoes’ Picture Book. By R. V.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>In Animal Land with Louis Wain. Coloured Frontispiece +and many other of Louis Wain’s striking animal pictures for the +young.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Two Little Bears at School. By J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Merry and Free. Pictures and Stories for our Little Ones. By +R. V.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bible Pictures and Stories: Old Testament. By D. J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bible Pictures and Stories: New Testament. By James +Weston and D. J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Pussies and Puppies. By Louis Wain.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Life of Jesus. By Mildred Duff, 112 pages.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Gentle Jesus: A Book of Bible Pictures in colour. Size, 11 by +8 inches.</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<blockquote> +<p class='fs80'>Commendations from all parts of the world have reached +Messrs. S. W. Partridge and Co. upon the excellence of their +Picture Books. The reading matter is high-toned, helpful, and +amusing, exactly adapted to the requirements of young folks; +while the Illustrations are by first-class artists, and the paper is +thick and durable. Bound in attractive coloured covers, they +form a unique series.</p> +</blockquote> + + +<h3 id="9d_each"> + 9d. each. +</h3> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'><i>Ninepenny Series of Illustrated Books.</i></p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>96 pages. Small Crown 8vo. Illustrated. Handsome Cloth Covers.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Kibbie & Co. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Brave Bertie. By Edith C. Kenyon.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Little Slave Girl. By Eileen Douglas.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Marjorie’s Enemy: A Story of the Civil War of 1644. By Mrs. +Adams.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Lady Betty’s Twins. By E. M. Waterworth.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Venturesome Voyage. By F. Scarlett Potter.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Out of the Straight; or, The Boy who Failed and the Boy +who Succeeded. By Noel Hope.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bob and Bob’s Baby. By Mary E. Lester.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Robin’s Golden Deed. By Ruby Lynn.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Little Captain: A Temperance Tale. By Lynde Palmer.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Runaway Twins; or, The Terrible Guardian. By Irene +Clifton.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Grandmother’s Child. By Annie S. Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dorothy’s Trust. By Adela Frances Mount.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Grannie’s Treasures; and how they helped her. By L. E. +Tiddeman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>His Majesty’s Beggars. By Mary E. Ropes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Love’s Golden Key. By Mary E. Lester.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Faithful Friends. By C. A. Mercer.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Only Roy. By E. M. Waterworth and Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Aunt Armstrong’s Money. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Babes in the Basket; or, Daph and Her Charge.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Bel’s Baby. By Mary E. Ropes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Birdie’s Benefits; or, A Little Child Shall Lead Them. By +Edith Ruth Boddy.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Carol’s Gift; or, “What Time I am Afraid I will Trust in +Thee.” By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cripple George; or, God has a Plan for Every Man. A Temperance +Story. By John W. Kneeshaw.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Cared For; or, The Orphan Wanderers. By Mrs. C. E. Bowen.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Flight with the Swallows. By Emma Marshall.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Five Cousins. By Emma Leslie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Foolish Chrissy; or, Discontent and its Consequences. By +Meta.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>For Lucy’s Sake, By Annie S. Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Giddie Garland; or, The Three Mirrors. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>How a Farthing made a Fortune; or, Honesty is the Best +Policy. By Mrs. C. E. Bowen.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>How Paul’s Penny became a Pound. By Mrs. Bowen.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>How Peter’s Pound became a Penny. By the same Author.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Blessington’s Enemy: A Story of Life in South Africa. +By E. Harcourt Burrage.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>John Oriel’s Start in Life. By Mary Howitt.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>The Man of the Family. By Jennie Chappell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Mattie’s Home; or, The Little Match-girl and her Friends.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Nan; or, The Power of Love. By Eliza F. Pollard.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Phil’s Frolic. By F. Scarlett Potter.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Paul: A Little Mediator. By Maude M. Butler.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Rob and I; or, By Courage and Faith. By C. A. Mercer.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>A Sailor’s Lass. By Emma Leslie.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Una Bruce’s Troubles. By Alice Price.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Won from the Sea. By E. C. Phillips (Mrs. H. B. Looker).</p> + +<hr class='r30'> +<h3 id="6d_each"> + 6d. each. +</h3> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'><i>The Marigold Series.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1 fs80 mth'><i>An unequalled series of Standard Stories, printed on good laid paper. +Imperial 8vo. 128 pages. Illustrated covers with vignetted design +printed in eight colours. Price 6d. each net.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Pride and Prejudice.</span> By +Jane Austen.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">From Jest to Earnest.</span> By +E. P. Roe.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Wide, Wide World.</span> +By Susan Warner.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'><i>New Series of Sixpenny Picture Books.</i> +</p> + +<p class='hang1 fs80 mbh'><i>Crown 4to. With Coloured Frontispiece and many other Illustrations. +Handsomely Bound in Paper Boards, with cover printed in ten colours.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>Off to Toyland! By Uncle Jack.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Going A-Sailing! By J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Follow the Flag. By J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Dollie Dimple. By J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Old Mother Bunnie! A Picture Story Book for Laddies and +Lassies. By J. D.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Off We Go! Pictures and Stories for Boys and Girls. By R. V.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Sweet Stories Re-Told: A Bible Picture Book for Young Folks.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>Little Snowdrop’s Bible Picture Book.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>March Away! Pictures and Stories for Every Day.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>After the Ball: Pictures and Stories for One and All.</p> + +<hr class="r15"> + +<p class='hang1'>Mother’s Sunday A B C: A Little Book of Bible Pictures, +which can be coloured by hand.</p> + +<hr class='r15'> + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'><i>The “Red Dave” Series.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>New and Enlarged Edition. Handsomely bound in Cloth Boards.<br> +Well Illustrated.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'>“<span class="smcap">Roast Potatoes!</span>” A Temperance Story. By Rev. S. N. Sedgwick, M.A.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">His Captain.</span> By Constancia Sergeant.</p> + +<p class='hang1'>“<span class="smcap">In a Minute!</span>” By Keith Marlow.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Uncle Jo’s Old Coat.</span> By Eleanora H. Stooke.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Cost of a Promise.</span> By M. I. Hurrell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Farthing Dips</span>; or, What can I do? BY J. S. Woodhouse.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Roy Carpenter’s Lesson.</span> By Keith Marlow.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Gerald’s Guardian.</span> By Charles Herbert.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Where a Queen once Dwelt.</span> BY Jetta Vogel.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Wilful Jack.</span> By M. I. Hurrell.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Willie the Waif.</span> By Minie Herbert.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Little Town Mouse.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Little Governess.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Puppy-Dog Tales.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Mother’s Boy.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Great Mistake.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">From Hand to Hand.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">That Boy Bob.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Buy Your Own Cherries.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Left in Charge</span>, and other Stories.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Threefold Promise.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Four Young Musicians.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Two Little Girls and What They Did.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Sunday Trip and What Came of it.</span> +By E. J. Romanes.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Little Tim and his Picture.</span> +By Beatrice Way.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Midge.</span> By L. E. Tiddeman.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Conjurer’s Wand.</span> By +Henrietta S. Streatfeild.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Benjamin’s New Boy.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Enemies</span>: a Tale for Little Lads +and Lassies.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Cherry Tree Place.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Tale of Four Foxes.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Joe and Sally</span>: or, A Good Deed +and its Fruits.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Island Home.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Chrissy’s Treasure.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Lost in the Snow.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Owen’s Fortune.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Red Dave</span>; or, What Wilt Thou +have Me to Do?</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Dick and His Donkey.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Jessie Dyson.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Come Home, Mother.</span></p> + +<hr class='r30'> + +<h3 id="4d_each"> + 4d. each. +</h3> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u'> <i>Cheap “Pansy” Series:</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Imperial 8vo. 64 pages. Many Illustrations. Cover printed in five colours.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Strait Gate.</span> By Annie S. +Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Mark Desborough’s Vow.</span> By +Annie S. Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Her Saddest Blessing.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Miss Priscilla Hunter</span>, and +other Stories.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Wild Bryonie.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Avice.</span> A Story of Imperial Rome.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Links in Rebecca’s Life.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">From Different Standpoints.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Those Boys.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Chrissie’s Christmas.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Four Girls at Chautauqua.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Julia Ried.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Ester Ried yet Speaking.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Echoing and Re-echoing.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Cunning Workmen.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Tip Lewis and His Lamp.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The King’s Daughter.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Household Puzzles.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Randolphs.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Wise To Win</span>; or, The Master +Hand.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A New Graft on the Family Tree.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Man of the House.</span></p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>The Young Folks’ Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80'><i>Of Cloth-bound Books. With Coloured Frontispiece. 64 pages.<br> +Well Illustrated. Handsome Cloth Covers.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Little Woodman.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Jacko the Monkey</span>, and other +Stories.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Little Dan, the Orange Boy.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Ronald’s Reason.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">From Shadow to Sunshine.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Bright Idea.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Sybil and Her Live Snowball.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Church Mouse.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Dandy Jim.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Troublesome Trio.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Perry’s Pilgrimage.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Nita</span>; or, Among the Brigands.</p> + + +<h3 id="3d_each"> + 3d. each. +</h3> + +<p class='hang3 fs120 u'><i>New Pretty “Gift-Book” Series.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>With Beautiful Coloured Frontispiece, and many other Illustrations. +Paper Boards, Cover printed in eight Colours and Varnished, 3d. each. +Size 6 by 5 inches.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Jack and Jill’s Picture Book.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Lady-bird’s Pictures and +Stories.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Playtime Joys for Girls and Boys.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Dolly’s Picture Book.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">By the Sea.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Toby and Kit’s Animal Book.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">“Pets” and “Pickles.”</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Our Little Pets’ Alphabet.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Bible Stories—Old Testament.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Bible Stories—New Testament.</span></p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>The Tiny Library.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80 mbh'><i>Books printed in large type. Cloth limp, 3d.</i></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Little Chrissie</span>, and other Stories.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Harry Carlton’s Holiday.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Little Loss and a Big Find.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">What a Little Cripple Did.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Bobby.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Matty and Tom.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Broken Window.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">John Madge’s Cure for Selfishness.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Pedlar’s Loan.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Letty Young’s Trials.</span></p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 u mt1'> <i>Paternoster Series of Popular Stories.</i> +</p> + +<p class='center fs80'><i>An entirely New Series of Books, Medium 8vo. in size, 32 pages, fully illustrated.<br> +Cover daintily printed in two colours. 1d. each. Titles as follows</i>:—</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">A Candle Lighted by the Lord.</span> +By Mrs. Ross.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Grandmother’s Child.</span> By +Annie S. Swan.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Babes in the Basket</span>; or, +Daph and her Charge.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Jenny’s Geranium</span>; or, The Prize +Flower of a London Court.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Through Sorrow and Joy.</span> By +M. A. R.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">The Little Woodman and His Dog Cæsar.</span> By Mrs. Sherwood.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Cripple George.</span> By J. W. +Kneeshaw.</p> + +<p class='hang1'><span class="smcap">Rob and I.</span> By C. A. Mercer.</p> + + +<p class='hang3 fs110 mt1 u'> <i>Partridge’s Pictorial Magazines.</i> +</p> + +<p class='hang1 fs80 mth'>“A word of emphatic praise should be given to the old-established and excellent +magazines of Messrs. Partridge and Co. They ought to hold their own against the +great competition, for they are eminently sound, healthy, and interesting.”—<span class="smcap">British +Weekly.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1 fs80 mth'>“It would be difficult to surpass these Magazines. All have marched with the times.”—<span class="smcap">Daily +Telegraph.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1 fs80 mth'>“There are no more attractive Annual Volumes than those issued by <span class="smcap">S. W. Partridge.</span> +and Co.”—<span class="smcap">The Christian.</span></p> + +<p class='hang1 mth'>The British Workman. Contains popular Articles and Stories +on Temperance, Thrift, etc., and short biographies of eminent +Self-made Men; also interesting information of special value +to the sons of toil. + +<span class='float-right'> 1d. Monthly.</span> +</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='fs80 mth hang1'>The Yearly Volume, 144 pages full of illustrations, coloured paper boards, +<b>1s. 6d.</b>; cloth, <b>2s. 6d.</b></p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1 mth'>The Family Friend. A beautifully Illustrated Magazine for the +Home Circle, with Serial and Short Stories by popular +Authors, Helpful Articles, Hints on Dressmaking, etc. + +<span class='float-right'> + 1d. Monthly. +</span> +</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='fs80 mth hang1'>The Yearly Volume, in coloured paper boards and cloth back, <b>1s. 6d.</b>; +cloth, <b>2s.</b>; gilt edges, <b>2s. 6d.</b></p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1 mth'>The Friendly Visitor. An Illustrated Magazine for the people, +full of entertaining reading with sound religious teaching in +the form of story, article, and poem. Printed in good type +and fully illustrated. Just the paper for the aged. + +<span class='float-right'> + 1d. Monthly.</span> +</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='fs80 mth hang1'>The Yearly Volume, coloured paper boards and cloth back, <b>1s. 6d.</b>; cloth, +<b>2s.</b>; gilt edges, <b>2s. 6d.</b></p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1 mth'>The Children’s Friend. Charming Stories, interesting Articles, +Indoor Recreations, beautiful Pictures, Puzzles, Prize Competitions, +etc. + +<span class='float-right'> + 1d. Monthly.</span> +</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='fs80 mth hang1'>The Yearly Volume, coloured paper boards, with cloth back and excellent +coloured frontispiece, <b>1s. 6d.</b>; cloth, <b>2s.</b>; gilt edges, <b>2s. 6d.</b></p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1 mth'>The Infants’ Magazine. No other periodical can be compared +with the Infants’ Magazine for freshness, brightness, and +interest. Full of bright pictures and pleasant reading to +delight the little ones. + +<span class='float-right'> + 1d. Monthly.</span> +</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='hang1 fs80 mth'>The Yearly Volume, coloured paper boards, with cloth back and beautifully +coloured frontispiece, <b>1s. 6d.</b>; cloth, <b>2s.</b>; gilt edges, <b>2s. 6d.</b></p> +</blockquote> + +<p class='hang1 mth'>The Band of Hope Review. The Leading Temperance +Periodical for the Young, containing Serial and Short Stories, +Concerted Recitations, Prize Competitions. Should be in +the hands of all Members of Bands of Hope. + +<span class='float-right'> + ½d. Monthly.</span> +</p> + +<blockquote> +<p class='hang1 mth fs80'>The Yearly Volume coloured paper boards, <b>1s.</b>; cloth boards, <b>1s. 6d.</b></p> +</blockquote> +</div> + +<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" aria-hidden="true"> +<div class="chapter transnote"> + <h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes"> + Transcriber’s Notes + </h2> + + +<ul> +<li>Illustrations moved to nearby paragraph breaks.</li> + +<li>Obvious typographic errors silently corrected.</li> + +</ul> +</div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78829 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/78829-h/images/cover.jpg b/78829-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c41a0f --- /dev/null +++ b/78829-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/78829-h/images/frontispiece.jpg b/78829-h/images/frontispiece.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aeb5e16 --- /dev/null +++ b/78829-h/images/frontispiece.jpg diff --git a/78829-h/images/map.jpg 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