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diff --git a/78816-0.txt b/78816-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d739259 --- /dev/null +++ b/78816-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,22616 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78816 *** + +[Illustration: + + _Photo aquatinte Boussod Valadon & C^o._ +] + + + + + THE + KILIMA-NJARO EXPEDITION. + _A RECORD OF SCIENTIFIC EXPLORATION IN EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA._ + AND A + GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE NATURAL HISTORY, LANGUAGES, AND COMMERCE OF + THE KILIMA-NJARO DISTRICT. + + + BY + H. H. JOHNSTON, F.Z.S., F.R.G.S. + MEMB. ANTHROP. INSTITUTE, ETC.; LEADER OF THE EXPEDITION, AUTHOR OF + “THE RIVER CONGO FROM ITS MOUTH TO BÓLÓBÓ.” + + WITH SIX MAPS AND OVER EIGHTY ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR. + +[Illustration: An illustration of three condors in flight against a +plain, light-colored background. The birds are rendered in a detailed, +vintage pen-and-ink sketching style with heavy cross-hatching. They are +positioned at different angles: one at the top left soaring downward, +one in the middle glidng toward the viewer, and one at the bottom banked +to the side, showing the distinctive white patches on their wings and +necks.] + + LONDON + KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, AND CO., 1, PATERNOSTER SQUARE. + 1886. + + + LONDON: + PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED + ST. JOHN'S SQUARE. + + + [_The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved._] + + + TO + + SIR JOHN KIRK, K.C.M.G., M.D., ETC., + + TRAVELLER, BOTANIST, DIPLOMATIST, AND GUARDIAN OF BRITISH INTERESTS AT + ZANZIBAR, + + THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED + + BY THE AUTHOR. + +[Illustration: Black-and-white line illustration of Mount Kilimanjaro, +showing a snow-capped peak rising above rolling, textured hills with +fine cross-hatched shading.] + + Hail to thee, monarch of African mountains! + Remote, inaccessible, silent, and lone— + Who from the heart of the tropical fervours + Liftest to heaven thine alien snows. + · · · · · + + I see thee supreme in the midst of thy co-mates. + Standing alone, ’twixt the earth and the heavens, + Heir of the Sunset and Herald of Morn, + Zone above zone, to thy snow-crested summits + The climates of Earth are displayed, as an index, + Giving the scope of the Book of Creation. + There, in the gorges that widen, descending + From cloud and from cold into summer eternal, + Gather the threads of the ice-gendered fountains— + Gather to riotous torrents of crystal, + And, giving each shelvy recess where they dally, + The blooms of the North and its evergreen turfage, + Leap to the land of the lion and lotus! + · · · · · + + Sovereign mountain, thy brothers give welcome: + Mont Blanc, in the roar of his mad avalanches, + Hails thy accession; superb Orizaba, + Belted with beech and ensandalled with palm; + Chimborazo, the lord of the regions of noonday;— + Mingle their sounds in magnificent chorus. + They, the baptized and the crownèd of ages, + Watch-towers of continents, altars of Earth, + Welcome thee now to their mighty assembly. + · · · · · + + None has a claim to the honours of story, + Or the superior splendours of song, + Greater than thou, in thy mystery mantled— + Thou the sole monarch of African mountains. + Take, then, a name, and be filled with existence, + Yea, be exultant in sovereign glory, + While from the hand of the wandering poet + Drops the first garland of song at thy feet. + · · · · · + + “KILIMA-NJARO,” a poem by BAYARD TAYLOR, _circa_ 1855. + + + + + PREFACE. + + +As the Kilima-njaro Expedition was initiated and supported by two of the +most important among our British Scientific Societies, it may perhaps +seem excusable that I, who was its appointed leader, should venture to +lay the general results of this enterprise before the public. + +I do so only in the sincere desire to contribute, however feebly, to the +mounting sum of our knowledge of Africa—that continent, which I look +upon as the New World of the nineteenth century. + +I cannot conclude these few prefatory lines without most heartily +thanking every friend or chance acquaintance who by word or deed +facilitated my task. It is pleasant to look back upon this expedition as +having been provocative of nothing but kindness. + +While the names of certain of my benefactors are mentioned elsewhere in +the pages of this work in juxtaposition with their good deeds, I think +this the most fitting place in which to record my special sense of +obligation to Philip Lutley Sclater, Esq., Ph. D., Sec. Zoological +Society; Edward L. Lawson, Esq.; Edwin Arnold, Esq., C.S.I.; Carmichael +Thomas, Esq.; and, with all his faults, Mandara, Chief of Moši; who, +though he once threatened to cut off my head, nevertheless in his +brighter moods supplied me with much valuable information. + + H. H. JOHNSTON. + + LONDON, _November, 1885_. + + + + + NOTE TO THE READER. + + +In the orthography of most African words and proper names in this book, +especially in those which are written for the first time, I have +followed what seems to me the simplest and most satisfactory phonetic +system—that of Dr. Lepsius’ standard alphabet. + +As this may be new to some of my readers, I may mention here that the +vowels are generally pronounced as in Italian, viz.:— + + a = ah; e = eh; i = ee; o = oh; ô = aw; u = oo. + +In diphthongs, the sound of each vowel may be distinctly heard, as ai = +ah-ee; ou = oh-oo. + +Those consonants which differ in look from the Roman character, are— + + Č, pron. ch; ǰ, pron. as an English j; ṅ, pron. ng’; š, pron. sh; and + others, which are of less frequent occurrence, are explained fully in + Chapter XX. + +As frequently recurring examples of this orthography, I may instance,— + + “Čaga” —pronounced “Chaga;” + “Moši” „ “Moshy;” and + “ǰipé” „ “Jeepay.” + +I have only diverged from this system where the proper names from long +use have accustomed us to other spelling. Thus I write “Galla,” although +properly it should be “Gala,” and I have even avoided disfiguring the +“j” of “Kilima-njaro” with a ^v; although I fear the result of this +lenity will be that half my readers will pronounce it wrongly. To avoid +this I may, perhaps, for the benefit of the timid who always shirk +African names, write its exact pronunciation in our clumsy English +orthography. + +This would be: + + Killy-manjāhro. + + + + + CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. + PAGE + INTRODUCTORY 1 + + CHAPTER II. + SIR JOHN KIRK AT HOME 17 + + CHAPTER III. + THE START—MOMBASA TO TAITA 40 + + CHAPTER IV. + TAITA TO KILIMA-NJARO 64 + + CHAPTER V. + ARRIVAL AT MANDARA’S COURT 94 + + CHAPTER VI. + MY FIRST SETTLEMENT ON KILIMA-NJARO 114 + + CHAPTER VII. + “HALCYON DAYS” 142 + + CHAPTER VIII. + TROUBLOUS TIMES 164 + + CHAPTER IX. + AN ANXIOUS PERIOD 184 + + CHAPTER X. + A TRIP TO TAVEITA 204 + + CHAPTER XI. + A FIRST ASCENT 229 + + CHAPTER XII. + A MOVE TO MARAṄU 243 + + CHAPTER XIII. + A SECOND ASCENT 259 + + CHAPTER XIV. + THROUGH THE FORESTS OF KIMAWENZI AND THE COUNTRY OF ROMBO 281 + + CHAPTER XV. + LAKE J̌IPÉ AND THE ROAD TO GONJ̌A 296 + + CHAPTER XVI. + GONJ̌A TO LONDON 309 + + CHAPTER XVII. + CLIMATE, GEOLOGY, BOTANY, &C. 322 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + ZOOLOGY 350 + + CHAPTER XIX. + ANTHROPOLOGY 395 + + CHAPTER XX. + THE LANGUAGES OF THE KILIMA-NJARO DISTRICT 446 + (_a_) Masai. + Appendix 1. Comparative vocabulary of the Masai + language. + (_b_) The Bantu languages of Kilima-njaro Appendix 2. + Vocabularies of Ki-čaga, Ki-taveita, Ki-gweno, &c. + + CHAPTER XXI. + THE COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS OF EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA 535 + + + + + LIST + OF + MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + MAPS. + + NO. PAGE + 1. General Map of East Equatorial Africa _to face_ 1 + 2. Route to Kilima-njaro 16 + 3. Kilima-njaro to the Coast (valley of the Ruvu) _to face_ 296 + 4. Masai languages _to face_ 446 + 5. Map of Bantu languages 479 + 6. Kilima-njaro and its vicinity (Proc. R.G.S.) _the end_ + + + ILLUSTRATIONS. + + FIG. + Portrait of the Author _Frontispiece_ + 1. Sir John Kirk 17 + 2. Sir John Kirk at home _to face_ 21 + 3. Mtépé (with mat sail) 22 + 4. Small mtépé and outrigger canoe 23 + 5. A corridor in Sir John Kirk’s house _to face_ 25 + 6. Arab dau 26 + 7. Fishing boat and outrigger canoe 26 + 8. A Saracenic doorway 27 + 9. Zanzibar Harbour from the Consulate _to face_ 29 + 10. A view over the house-tops 28 + 11. Zanzibar orchids 33 + 12. Kigelia Africana 34 + 13. A street in Zanzibar 36 + 14. The bay of Mbwéni _to face_ 38 + 15. _Colobus Kirkii_ 39 + 16. Mombasa _to face_ 42 + 17. The Shaws’ house, Kisolutini; the first mission + station in East Africa 47 + 18. Virapan, my Tamil servant 62 + 19. Antelopes and ant-hills (the red hartebeest) _to face_ 65 + 20. Zebras 67 + 21. The first view of Kilima-njaro _to face_ 71 + 22. Sable antelope 69 + 23. The strange creeper 82 + 24. The River Habari 83 + 25. Trees with honey-boxes 92 + 26. Mandara’s left ear 107 + 27. View of Mandara’s village from Kitimbiriu _to face_ 119 + 28. Head and shoulders of our cow 121 + 29. A view towards Mačame 124 + 30. A view towards Ugweno 125 + 31. Mount Méru 126 + 32. A kite 128 + 33. Kibô in the early morning _to face_ 136 + 34. A native dam 137 + 35. “Kitimbiriu” (our first settlement on Kilima-njaro) 138 + 36. A corner of our settlement _to face_ 143 + 37. Clematis and hibiscus 147 + 38. A ravine in Moši 150 + 39. Kilima-njaro seen from above Moši (“palms and + snow”) _to face_ 152 + 40. Mkindu palm (_Phœnix_ sp.) 153 + 41. Čaga doorway 157 + 42. Čaga storehouse and dwelling 158 + 43. The captive 159 + 44. A soldier of Mandara’s 195 + 45. The Mkuyuni Stream 207 + 46. Vulturine attitudes 217 + 47. The Mpala antelope (_Æpyceros melampus_) 219 + 48. The Game country _to face_ 220 + 49. Female Roan antelope (_Hippotragus equinus_, ♀︎) 224 + 50. My settlement at Taveita 227 + 51. Tree fern (_Lonchitis pubescens_) 231 + 52. Kilima-njaro, showing both its snow-capped peaks _to face_ 234 + 53. Raven soaring 235 + 54. Kibô cloud-capped 258 + 55. Kimawenzi 265 + 56. _Senecio Johnstoni_ 268 + 57. Curious rocks, marked like a tortoise-shell 270 + 58. Great-billed ravens 271 + 59. The dome of Kibô from an altitude of 11,000 feet 278 + 60. Lake Čala 291 + 61. Kilima-njaro seen from Lake ǰipé _to face_ 298 + 62. Masai camp 305 + 63. _Musa Ensete_, a wild banana 331 + 64. (_a_) Bunch of fruit of _M. Ensete_; (_b_) Single + fruit, half natural size 333 + 65. Branching borassus palm 349 + 66. _Neotragus Kirkii_ 355 + 67. Head of great-billed raven (_Corvultur albicollis_) 356 + 68. The Dying hornbill 357 + 69. (_a_) The right _manus_ or wing of young ostrich. + (_b_) Scale feathers of young ostrich 360 + 70. Varanus lizards 362 + 71. A fish from the River Lumi 363 + 72. _Colobus Guereza_, var. _caudatus_. From the + “Proceedings of the Zoological Society” 389 + 73. _Graphiurus capensis_; (_a_) foot, (_b_) hand 392 + 74. A Masai warrior 415 + 75. Men of Taveita making fire 435 + 76. A Čaga forge 439 + 77. Čaga utensils: 1. Wooden hoe. 2. Leather + honey-case. 3. Gourd. 4. Wooden tray or dish. 5. + Club made from rhinoceros’ horn. 6. Knife 441 + 78. Čaga house 444 + +[Illustration: + + _H.H. Johnston, del._ _Weller._ +] + + + + + THE KILIMA-NJARO EXPEDITION. + + + + + CHAPTER I. + INTRODUCTORY. + + +Kilima-njaro[1] is the name currently given to a huge mountain-mass in +Eastern Africa, consisting of two giant peaks and many lesser ones, +situated below the third parallel south of the Equator, and at a +distance, in a straight line, of about 175 miles from the coast. The +highest of the two principal summits—Kibô—reaches an elevation 18,880 +feet above the sea, and the lesser peak—Kimawenzi—attains to 16,250 +feet. Both ascend above the snow-line, no other point in the same clump +of mountains doing so, and both are the craters of extinct volcanoes. +The entire mass of Kilima-njaro seems to be due to volcanic upheaval, +and it was doubtless at one time, and that geologically recent, the +great vent of the volcanic forces of Eastern Equatorial Africa, which +are still active in regions further to the north or west in the district +lying between the Victoria Nyanza and the Indian Ocean. + +Kilima-njaro, ever since its existence was positively known to modern +geographers, has been claimed as the highest of African mountains, its +chief summit reaching an altitude of nearly 19,000 feet. It is just +possible that in the unknown region stretching between the Victoria +Nyanza and Abyssinia loftier peaks may be discovered, or that Mount +Kenia, which lies about 200 miles due north of Kilima-njaro, may be +found after accurate measurement to exceed the height of the latter +mountain by a few feet, but until this is done, the geography-books may +still continue to put forward Kilima-njaro as the highest peak in +Africa. Indeed, this they are likely to do for the next decade or so, +whether he is superseded or not, for I have remarked that in all +geographical questions, physical or political, it takes a sadly long +time for increase of knowledge to penetrate the school manuals used in +the instruction of the British youth. They always seem separated from +the progress of discovery as the fixed stars are separated from our +powers of vision. Just as the rays of light now reaching us from Sirius +would be found illustrating a condition of things going on many years +ago, so in most of the school geography-books, geographical knowledge is +reflected a decade or so in arrears. I _think_ in most of them France is +now deprived of Alsace and Lorraine, and the territorial unity of Italy +is a _fait accompli_; but I fancy the Congo is as yet undiscovered, and +Turkey in Europe still extends its suzerainty over “the Danubian +Principalities,” Servia, Bulgaria, and Montenegro. I took up one of +these school class-books the other day and found that Mount Miltsin +(12,000 odd feet) in Morocco was the highest known peak in Africa. +Doubtless next year, in a later edition, the claims of Kilima-njaro will +be considered, and just as these receive a tardy recognition, some +adventurous traveller will bring to our knowledge another African Alp of +mightier proportions and loftier summit destined to oust from his proud +position the object of my recent journey, who, displaced from the homage +of the eager geographer, must be content to linger still a few years +longer in possession of the vague respect of the British schoolboy. + +Although the mass of Kilima-njaro rises rather abruptly from a fairly +level plain, it is hardly to be called isolated, and indeed it may be +said that an almost continuous chain of mountain-ranges and independent +peaks connect it with Abyssinia on the north, Natal on the south, and, +possibly, also with the Cameroons on the west. Judged by the flora which +clothes its higher regions, it may be almost regarded as the common +meeting-ground of many forms peculiarly characteristic of these three +widely separated mountain-districts. + +To ascertain the relationships of the fauna and flora of Kilima-njaro, +two learned societies—the British Association for the Advancement of +Science and the Royal Society—at the instigation, I believe, of Mr. +Sclater, the Secretary of the Zoological Society of London, delegated +certain of their members to form a Kilima-njaro Expedition Committee, +and funds to the extent of 1000_l._ were placed at their disposal. The +great height attained by Kilima-njaro, and the fact that this snow-clad +mountain-mass lies in the Equatorial zone, and exhibits an extraordinary +range of climates on its broad slopes, were thought sufficient causes to +give rise to or explain many curious features in its fauna and flora; +moreover, a like condition of things—perpetual snow under the +Equator—was only to be met with elsewhere in Central and South America, +no mountains in other parts of the tropics reaching to the snow-line. In +all cases lofty ranges lying in little-known regions are interesting to +students of natural history. Isolated mountains of great height are +often like oceanic islands, and serve as a refuge and a last +abiding-place for low types or peculiar forms, which in larger and more +densely-populated areas find the competition too keen, and are +extinguished in the struggle for life. Or, it may be, some species or +genus, originally of a generalized type, becomes by various +circumstances the inhabitant of an alpine range or a sea-girt island, +and being thus removed and protected from the natural checks to its +peculiar development offered by the contemporaneous evolution of its +fellows, may, as it were, run riot in the absence of rivalry, and assume +very eccentric and singular forms. Thus we can imagine that a pigeon +something like the modern didunculus of the South Sea Islands once +arrived in Mauritius, having perhaps hitherto had to contend with the +usual dangers which naturally menace the existence of a meek-spirited, +plump bird that is good to eat. But this pigeon, either chancing on +Mauritius in the course of its long flights, or dwelling on the island +at a date when its connection with a pre-existing continent was being +severed, found itself in singularly favourable circumstances, plenty to +eat and nothing to attack it—no animals of prey being left on the +island. So in the course of time, no longer obliged to fly from foes or +take long journeys in search of food, this pigeon became a dodo, huge, +fat, and inert, with atrophied and useless pinions. Again, on the +mountain-ranges of Sumatra, of Japan, of North America, also on the Alps +of Europe, dwell queer, old-fashioned ruminants—goat-antelopes, +capricorns, chamois—which would have long since perished in the fierce, +hustling life of the plains, or more probably have become moulded into +some advanced and perfected type, like the great ruminants of the +lowlands. There were these possibilities of zoology to encourage +exploration; and another interesting feature in the fauna and flora of +high mountains is that they often retain vestiges of an older nature, +that has long since been supplanted in lower levels by a new reign. In +this way Kini Balu, the lofty mountain of Borneo, preserves on its upper +slopes an Australian flora long since superseded in the plains below by +the vegetation of India. On the Alps reappear the butterflies of Arctic +Europe. The Abyssinian mountains can show genera and species of animals +and plants from temperate countries north and south, from Europe and the +Cape of Good Hope, and consequently the question as to the relations of +the fauna and flora of Kilima-njaro, the highest mountain known in +Africa, with that of other regions, was one of great interest, and one +which, however decided, might solve many curious puzzles as to the +geographical distribution of living forms. + +If we should discover around the snows of this huge mass of extinct +volcanoes the gentians and edelweiss of the Alps, or even other +semi-Arctic forms, these would arouse a supposition that during some +past glacial epoch the frigid North had sent its children into Central +Africa, following the ice and snow. Or should we find, as we ascended +Kilima-njaro, the birds, beetles, butterflies, and plants of the Cape of +Good Hope, or even the antique types of Madagascar, this might show that +the clump of snow mountains had served as one of the last footholds of +the older autochthonous African nature, which was dispossessed and +driven into distant islands and remote corners of the continent by +recent inroads of the lustier things of Europe; by the advent of the +apes, and lions, and huge herbivora, which scattered and extinguished +the feeble lemurs, insectivores, and edentates that heretofore +prevailed. It might also be, in a lesser way, with man as it had been +with lower forms of life, that the fastnesses of Kilima-njaro should +prove the shelter of some poor type, some human relic of a race long +passed away, whose speech, whose handicraft, whose superstitions would +arouse new problems for the anthropologist, or serve as a happy link to +strengthen imperfect chains of evidence. + +Questions like these, which the existence of snow-clad mountains in +Central Africa inevitably suggested, were of sufficient importance to +warrant the despatch of an expedition, which should obtain information +and material to aid in their solution; and at one time it was proposed +that Mr. Joseph Thomson should endeavour to combine with his journey +across the Masai country (since so splendidly carried out) a prolonged +journey on Kilima-njaro, and a consequent investigation of its fauna and +flora. But for many reasons this plan had to be abandoned, and the +British Association and Royal Society combined to organize a separate +expedition, with the command of which I was entrusted some months after +my return from the River Congo. + +Kilima-njaro is supposed to have been vaguely known to the Portuguese as +early as the sixteenth century, and inasmuch as these people held +Mombasa for nearly 200 years, and Mombasa lies within 180 miles of the +mountain, and is the point of departure and return of many Swahili and +Arab trading parties, who visit the base of the snow peaks, it would +indeed be curious if no rumours of the existence of such a mighty object +of wonder ever reached the ears of the Portuguese. + +Enciso,[2] a Spanish writer of the sixteenth century, mentions its +existence, and calls it “Mount Olympus.” Others have supposed that the +legendary Mountains of the Moon had their basis of actual existence in +Kilima-njaro; however this may be, putting aside vague rumours which in +this case had a just foundation and in many other cases had no +foundation at all, the first European who discovered Kilima-njaro and +made its existence known to the civilized world, was Rebmann, a German +missionary, who, wandering inland from Mombasa, first descried the +wonderful snowy dome of Kibô, the highest summit of the mass, on the +11th of May, 1848. Being a simple-minded man, and overawed by the +unexpected beauty and majesty of the spectacle which the distant +snow-clad summit offered as it rose from a base of sombre forest into +the clear blue sky, he fell on his knees and recited the 111th Psalm, +seeming almost to think that a little pimple on the surface of our tiny +planet was one of the chief and most glorious productions of the +Creator. Rebmann had the good fortune to alight on Kilima-njaro in times +of peace before the Arab traders and the slave trade had brought the +curse of internecine war to the industrious and thrifty agriculturists +who inhabited the fertile mountain-slopes. He consequently wandered +about freely, through most of the little Čaga[3] states, with a small +following of some ten porters and but little baggage. On his return to +the coast he communicated his discovery to Krapf, who shortly afterwards +started himself for the interior, and discovered Mount Kenia, but only +saw Kilima-njaro from a distance of forty miles. The results of these +two remarkable expeditions were modestly made known to the geographical +societies of Europe, but in Paris alone did the discovery of Kenia and +Kilima-njaro meet with any practical recognition. The silver medal of +the Geographical Society in that city was awarded to Messrs. Krapf and +Rebmann, for making known the existence of snow-clad mountains in +Eastern Equatorial Africa. + +In England the missionaries’ information was greatly discredited, +because they had not been able to map out their journeys by observations +for latitude and longitude, and could only fix the position of the +mountains, of which they alleged the existence, by dead reckoning. As a +matter of fact, they placed them with wonderful accuracy, considering +the rough methods employed, and subsequent discoveries have corroborated +their statements. Krapf only saw Mount Kenia from a distance of over +forty miles, and Rebmann probably approached no nearer than fifteen +miles to the snows of Kilima-njaro. Both could only asseverate that they +had _seen_ snow, and both were accused of being deceived by their vivid +imaginations. Their most relentless critic was a redoubtable person, for +long years a terror to real explorers, Mr. Desborough Cooley, a kind of +geographical ogre, who used to sit in his study in England, shaping and +planning out the map of Africa (basing his arrangements of rivers, +lakes, and mountains on ridiculous and fantastic linguistic coincidences +and resemblances of his own imagination), and who rushed out and tore in +pieces all unheeding explorers in the field who brought to light actual +facts which upset his elaborate geographical schemes. Mr. Cooley proved +in the most exhaustive and conclusive manner, that Messrs. Krapf and +Rebmann could _not_ have seen mountains capped with perpetual snow in +Equatorial Africa, and, _ergo_, they did not exist. + +However, Nature and Truth are relentless. They will not stifle or modify +their accomplished facts to please any one. You would have thought that +after the beautiful and logical manner in which Mr. Cooley had set forth +that snow-clad mountains could _not_ exist near the Equator (I suppose +he forgot those of America), that Nature would have felt ashamed of +producing anything unnatural and would have backed up Mr. Cooley’s +statements by whipping Kilima-njaro and Kenia off the land of Africa +before any adventurous explorer could conclusively prove their +existence. But no; after an interval[4] of about ten years, in 1861, +Baron von der Decken, a Hanoverian, went to Kilima-njaro and stayed +there from the end of July to the beginning of September, and was able +entirely to corroborate the statements of the much-maligned Rebmann. + +He was not able to ascend higher than 8000 feet, but on a succeeding +visit in December, 1862, he attained an altitude of 10,500 feet, +although on neither occasion did he approach anywhere near the snow. He +made, however, an admirable survey of the whole southern slope of the +mountain, which is still and has been our chief authority for the +delineation of Kilima-njaro on the map. His researches were rather added +to than superseded by the journeys of Thomson and myself. Von der Decken +calculated the height of the two great peaks, Kibô and Kimawenzi, and +considerably reduced the exaggerated estimate of their respective +altitudes. He, however, erred slightly in under-estimating the height of +Kibô, which he gives as only 18,700. My own observations make it 18,800, +and Thomson gives it as 18,880. Von der Decken (still traditionally +known on the mountain as the “Baroni”) received the gold medal of the +Royal Geographical Society for his careful surveys of Kilima-njaro and +its vicinity. + +In 1871, the Rev. Charles New, a missionary, who had been sent out to +East Africa by the United Methodist Free Church Mission, made a journey +to Moši, in Čaga, and thence ascended Kilima-njaro to the verge of the +snow, reaching an altitude of about 14,500 feet. He spent the month of +August on the mountain, but did not go over much new ground. Encouraged +by his pleasant experiences during this trip and filled with a craving +for further exploits in the same field of fascinating mystery, he +returned to Čaga two years later, with the intention of pursuing his +investigations. But this time his former host, Mandara, chief of Moši, +disappointed in the quantity and quality of the presents brought to him +by Mr. New, robbed the explorer of nearly all he possessed, including +his gold chronometer (given him by the Royal Geographical Society) and +his silver aneroid. Then poor New, broken-hearted, and sick with anxiety +and fatigue, turned his steps towards the coast, and died ere he reached +Mombasa. I have an impression from what Mandara himself has told me, +that his animosity and rapacity were aroused with respect to New by the +latter’s too vehement and perhaps injudicious harangues against slavery. +Mandara declared that Mr. New had incited openly his subjects to rebel +against him, but this I think highly improbable. It is possible that the +missionary inveighed against slavery in such a way that Mandara dreaded +lest his utterances should have the effect of arousing his serfs to a +wish for freedom, and that he therefore robbed him and cast him out of +his kingdom. This view of the case is supported by the accounts given by +an old friend of New’s, Kapitau, an intelligent and pleasant-mannered +coast trader, with whom I have had much conversation. This man retains +an earnest respect for the missionary, and accuses Mandara of having +wished to poison him. + +After New’s death, Kilima-njaro remained unvisited until quite recently, +when, in 1883, Mr. Joseph Thomson arrived there, on his journey across +Masai-land. He also visited Mandara, and was also robbed by that +rapacious chieftain. Starting from Moši he ascended to an altitude of +nearly 9000 feet, made a small collection of plants, and pursued his +journeys, which ultimately led him nearly all round the base of the +mountain. Mr. Thomson was the first who saw the northern aspects of +Kilima-njaro. + +I might also mention that Dr. Fischer, a German traveller, passed within +some thirty miles of Kilima-njaro a little while before Mr. Thomson. He +subsequently penetrated Masai-land as far as Lake Naivaša. + +All these above-mentioned travellers had paid visits of a more or less +fleeting character to Kilima-njaro, and few had studied in any way its +natural history, or had attempted to make collections of any importance. +Von der Decken brought back some beetles and one or two plants. New +gathered and sent home a few specimens of the flora growing on the upper +slopes. Dr. Fischer introduced us to a new Touraco[5] dwelling in the +vicinity of the mountain, and Thomson in his hurried ascent procured +some twenty plants, nearly all of which were new to science. But in the +main little of the flora or fauna of Kilima-njaro had been made known, +and the object of my mission was to make collections which would +materially aid us in settling the relations which this clump of +mountains bore to other lofty African ranges in its peculiar forms of +life. The Kilima-njaro Committee, taking into consideration the peculiar +difficulties of African travel, hesitated to send out on this expedition +any one who, though a trained naturalist, should yet have had no +previous experience of the climate and mode of life in the dark +continent; and although I professed little skill or capacity in natural +history collecting (for you may be enthusiastically fond of the study of +botany and zoology, and yet be a very poor taxidermist or herbalist), it +was thought that my acquaintance with the difficulties of African +expedition and the exigencies of travel in a barbarous country would +enable me to conduct the expedition to Kilima-njaro with some chance of +success. Unfortunately the sum of 1000_l._ placed at my disposal, +although sufficient with due economy to meet the ordinary expenses of +the expedition, would not permit of European collectors being taken, the +cost of the passage-money, salary, and keep of two men amounting to +nearly half the sum already mentioned. However, this difficulty did not +much concern me at the time, as one or two collectors were promised from +the Calcutta Botanical Gardens, whose expenses would have been defrayed +by their employers in return for a set of specimens collected. But on +arriving at Zanzibar I was disappointed of their aid, for it was found +at the last moment impossible to induce any Indian collectors to join an +expedition to Central Africa. Consequently I had to depend on the chance +aid of such natives of Zanzibar accompanying my caravan as might evince +any taste for a collector’s duties. Sir John Kirk, indeed, procured for +me two men who had been with Dr. Fischer during his recent expedition, +and who had an elementary knowledge of drying plants and skinning birds; +but these men, on account of their superior attainments, were so +exacting and difficult to deal with, that when they deserted me soon +after my arrival on the mountain and went to a neighbouring chief to +organize his slave-trading caravans, I did not miss them keenly. +Nevertheless, after this, the entire charge of collecting fell upon me, +adding to the already existing and by no means perfunctory cares of +superintending the expedition. I not only had to conduct long and +wearisome palavers with native chiefs, and talk them into acquiescence +with my plans, I not only had to show the men how to build houses, where +to construct roads and bridges, and lay out plantations, but I must also +shoot and skin birds, gather and press plants, collect beetles, and +catch butterflies. In a moist climate like that of Kilima-njaro the +labour involved in making good botanical collections alone was very +great, and in all this I had no help. My Zanzibar porters, although +excellent, hardworking, faithful fellows, evinced no aptitude whatever +for natural history collecting. In spite of my repeated and painstaking +instructions, they _would_ bring me flowers without leaves, and leaves +without flowers. They preferred catching butterflies with their fingers +to using a net, and thought that an insect in fragments was quite as +satisfactory as a whole specimen. In short I found that if any work was +to be of use in collecting, it must proceed solely from my own efforts. +I merely mention these difficulties so that my readers may properly +appreciate the character of the task I was called on to perform. + +The instructions given me by the Kilima-njaro Committee were to proceed +direct to Mount Kilima-njaro, reside in the vicinity of the mountain for +at least six months, and collect as much as possible near the snow-line. +As already mentioned, funds to the extent of 1000_l._ were granted me, +and besides that, the Royal Geographical Society generously provided me +with a complete set of instruments for making astronomical and +meteorological observations. I ought also to mention that Messrs. Howard +and Son made me a most liberal present of quinine, an item of the outfit +which would have amounted under ordinary circumstances to a considerable +expense, and other leading purveyors treated me with great generosity, +so that I was altogether most kindly supported in my undertaking. Having +previously despatched my heavy luggage by British India steamship, I +left London in the beginning of March, 1884, and travelled overland to +Egypt, spent a week or two rambling about the highways and byeways of +that unhappy land, joined my steamer at Suez, and quitted her at Aden +with heartfelt joy, after a horribly uncomfortable voyage of eight days. +At Aden I had a delightful experience of what British hospitality can do +to cast a halo round the most unattractive spots. At the house of the +Resident and Governor, General Blair, V.C., I spent a most enjoyable +interval whilst awaiting the Zanzibar steamer. + +I somewhat dreaded the advent of this vessel, for after my experience of +cockroaches, rats, bad smells, and bad food in the steamer which had +carried me to Aden, I anticipated a renewal of this purgatory on board +the steamship of the same company which was to complete the journey to +Zanzibar. But this was fortunately not the case. The _Java_, though an +old-fashioned and not too speedy boat, was scrupulously clean, and her +staff of officers were all that could be desired in kindness and skill. +The fare was excellent, the weather perfect, the fellow-passengers few +and agreeable; and our journey to Zanzibar was more like a trip on a +friend’s yacht. We stopped at Lamu, and lunched with Lieutenant Haggard, +her Britannic Majesty’s vice-consul, and then at Mombasa, where I went +off for a lengthy conference with Captain Gissing, our vice-consul at +that port, who was already kindly interesting himself in the equipment +of my expedition, and engaging porters from the vicinity of that place +to accompany me, for it was considered best by Sir John Kirk that I +should start from Mombasa for Kilima-njaro. After my first brief visit +to the place, however, I continued on my way to Zanzibar, to confer with +Sir John Kirk, and to engage a certain number of men. Accordingly, one +day in the middle of April, 1884, I awoke in the early sunshine, and +looked forth on a crescent of white buildings rising above an irregular +line of black shipping and black mud, and later on in the day landed at +Zanzibar, and found myself in that busy mart of East African trade, +whence so many expeditions and explorers have started for the conquest +of Africa’s secrets. Here I was soon enjoying the kind hospitality of +Sir John Kirk, and feeling in the contemplation of the strange, varied +life around me that the first chapter of my experiences in East Africa +had pleasantly begun. + +[Illustration: + + Map 2.—Route to Kilima-njaro. +] + + + + + CHAPTER II. + SIR JOHN KIRK AT HOME. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 1.—Sir John Kirk.] + +Zanzibar, an island lying about twenty miles off the East Coast of +Africa, under the sixth parallel south of the equator (I feel bound to +furnish this information in the prevailing state of ignorance respecting +African geography), has long been a nucleus of foreign rule along the +eastern seaboard of the Dark Continent. Without going into the questions +of its remote history, and considering whether it was or whether it was +not distinctly known to the hazy geographers of classical days, we can +feel pretty certain that, for nearly as many centuries as form the +Christian Era, Zanzibar has been a place of resort for the Arab and +Persian traders and slave-dealers of the Red Sea, the Persian Gulf, and +the coasts of Sind and Gujerat. There was at one time a distinct Persian +colonization of the East African littoral to the north of Zanzibar, and +apparently also in Zanzibar itself, though here the intermixture of +Persian blood in the local race is in no way as evident as in places on +the mainland, such as Lamu, Malindi, or Magdishu. However, even in +Zanzibar, distinct traces of Fire Worship remain engrafted on the +African Mohammedanism of the inhabitants. After several centuries of +_quasi_ Arab rule, Zanzibar in the beginning of the sixteenth century +came under the dominion of the Portuguese, whose language has left its +traces in the Swahili vocabulary. When Portugal fell into the power of +Spain, and her hold on Abyssinia and the Eastern Horn of Africa waned +and faded, the Arabs reasserted their independence in Zanzibar, and the +island remained in the possession of various Arab chiefs till the end of +the last century, when the Imam of Maskat proclaimed and maintained his +suzerainty over Pemba, Zanzibar, and the neighbouring coast. + +In 1841, the East India Company first established relations with the +ruler of Zanzibar, who had assumed the title of “Sayyid,” or Lord of the +Island. He was at the same time Sovereign of ’Oman, that East Arabian +principality of which Maskat is the capital. Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton, +the first British representative at the Court of Zanzibar, remained many +years at his post, and was still in East Africa when Burton undertook +his pioneer journey to the Lake regions. On his death General Rigby +succeeded him as Consul-General and Political Agent, and was in turn +followed by several officials whose residence in the island was of short +duration. At length, in 1873, Sir John Kirk, who had first come to +Zanzibar as Vice-Consul in 1866, and who had for some years acted in a +superior capacity, received his formal appointment to the post of +Consul-General, and later on attained the further office of Political +Agent. Sir John Kirk, who comes of an old Forfarshire family, was +educated primarily as a doctor, and served as a physician to the British +hospital at Renkioi, Dardanelles, during the Crimean War; but already, +both at the University and during his service abroad, his taste and +aptitude for natural history had so developed that he little cared to +make the medical profession his ultimate career. In 1858 he accepted the +post of naturalist to Dr. Livingstone’s expedition to the Zambesi. When +he arrived at the mouth of this river, the circumstances of the +expedition were such that it became necessary for Dr. Kirk (as he then +was) to lay his studies of natural history aside, and assume the arduous +position of second in command, and direct personally the conduct of the +land party. It was largely owing to his exertions and untiring labour +that the unfortunate Zambesi Expedition was not an even costlier +experiment than it eventually proved; and Dr. Livingstone found in his +colleague and second in command a mainstay and help in several critical +emergencies wherein the rest of his staff were of little service. + +Shortly after his return from the Zambesi Dr. Kirk was offered the post +of Vice-Consul at Zanzibar, and thus entered the service in which he +rose successively to the ranks of Consul, Consul-General, and Political +Agent. In 1878 he was made C.M.G., and in 1881 he was knighted. + +There is no one living or dead who has so profoundly influenced the +condition of Eastern Africa as Sir John Kirk. To him more than to any +one else is owing the effective repression of slave-trading; and it is +only quite recently that the full consequences of his steady +anti-slavery policy began to appear and develop themselves into a +healthy and beneficent solution of a difficult African problem. When Sir +John first arrived in Zanzibar the Arab ruler of the island, the +so-called Sultan, was little more than _primus inter pares_. He was +recognized as “Sayyid,” or Lord, of Zanzibar, by the Arab nobles and +traders, but his authority was most uncertain. Many of his subjects +thought themselves superior to him in purity of blood and ancient +genealogy, and whenever the wishes of their nominal ruler—merely one of +themselves deputed to transact the Government business—clashed with +their personal interests or predilections, they openly bade him +defiance, and put their fortress-houses into a state of siege. The +standing army was composed of a few miserable, beggarly Baluch +mercenaries—ill-clothed, unpaid, and as cowardly as they were rapacious. +Slaves were openly sold in Zanzibar, and the Sayyid was too weak to +incur the displeasure of his Arab subjects by the suppression of a +lucrative and easy trade. When Sayyid Majid died and the present +“Sultan,” Barghash bin Sa’id, succeeded him, Sir John Kirk set himself +resolutely to acquire the confidence and friendship of the young Arab +ruler, and, aided by his great knowledge of Arabic and Ki-Swahili, was +able to converse with the Sayyid in strict intimacy, without the medium +of an interpreter, so that he was enabled often to weld the will of +Barghash to conformity with his own wishes by means of an earnest +expostulation and half-playful sarcasm which would have sounded ill +through the intermediary of some wily Goanese. So great was the +influence already exercised over the Prince of Zanzibar after two years +of personal intercourse that Sir John Kirk was able to exact from him as +a favour and concession to friendship that which Sir Bartle Frere, with +all his personal prestige and position, and with a fleet of ironclads +behind him, failed to extort, namely, the Sayyid’s signature to a treaty +for the suppression of the East African slave-trade. This, though +refused under threats of bombardment, was granted after a few hours’ +conversation with Sir John Kirk, and the treaty, which during Sir Bartle +Frere’s mission had been persistently rejected by the “Sultan,” was +signed and sealed within a few hours after the envoy’s departure, and +overtook him in a rapid despatch-boat before he reached Aden. An amusing +incident is recorded of Sayyid Barghash during the _séance_ of +deliberation which took place before he signed the treaty. Sir John Kirk +was explaining to him the terrors and inconveniences of a blockade, how +all supplies of provisions would be stopped, and the island reduced to +starvation, and he wound up his effective picture by asking the “Sultan” +what he would do _then_? “Why,” said Sayyid Barghash, “I should just +come and live with you, Consul.” + +[Illustration: + + SIR JOHN KIRK AT HOME. + + To face page 21. +] + +It is owing to our present representative in Zanzibar that the Sultan +has gradually assured and strengthened his hold over the East African +coast between the Portuguese northern boundary and the No-man’s Land of +the Somali Deserts, thus keeping in hands friendly to England the +richest coast-lands of East Africa and the trade-routes to the Central +Basin. Sir John Kirk has little disguised his views about English +influence in the Indian Ocean, and he steadfastly bears in mind that +nearly the entire commerce of Eastern Africa is in the hands of British +subjects, and that, to uphold our influence in the country, we should +encourage to the utmost the thrifty settlers from Western India. He also +feels, as any observant politician must, that much as we may admire and +sympathize with the promptings to colonization which, like the desire +for offspring late in life, are now animating so many old European +nations, there is no reason why England should act as a political +midwife, and assist in bringing to birth their late-born children, or +neglect the wants of her own large family in order that her neighbours’ +weaklings may not die of inanition. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 3.—Mtépé (with mat sail). +] + +One of the firmest resolves of Sir John Kirk has been to keep Eastern +Africa between 10° N. and 10° S. clear of foreign influences, and so to +hold this littoral through our nominee, the present Sayyid, that +whenever the cold fit shall be off and the hot wave of further +colonization flow on again—whenever the irresistible spreading of the +English people compels it to look towards fresh fields of +enterprise—Zanzibar, city, island, and coast, may not be found in hands +hostile to British trade. To Sir John Kirk alone we owe it that the +Government of Portugal has not now included the important Rovuma river +in its East African possessions; and the same person is responsible for +having, with one English frigate, driven away the whole Egyptian fleet +under McGillup Pasha, when, acting under secret orders from the Egyptian +Government, the Khedive’s East African Expedition proceeded to annex, +occupy, and fortify the principal ports in the Sayyid’s continental +dominions. About the manifold checks that French ambition and +“protecting” zeal[6] have received in these Zangian regions I need not +dilate, as they are questions involving political feelings of some +acerbity at the present time, and would therefore be out of place in +this book. But I might further recall to my readers that it is to the +personal exertions of the British Agent and Consul-General that Zanzibar +owes its line of telegraph, its mail service, its hospital, its +observatory, its standing army (officered and commanded by Englishmen), +its horticultural development, its projected sanitary reform, and +possibly also the scarcely less precious introductions of lawntennis and +afternoon tea. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 4. + + Small Mtépé and Outrigger Canoe. +] + +The British Agency and Consulate-General in the town of Zanzibar is a +handsome Arab house standing towards the southern end of the city, and +just overhanging the sea, which at high tide lashes its protecting wall. +The style of exterior and interior is purely Arab, or, to use a more +accepted term in architecture, Saracenic. Entering from the narrow +streets an iron gateway, you come into the grateful shade of a small +garden, planted with spreading mimosas, cocoanut palms, and mangoes, and +through the interstices of the foliage you look up at the high +grey-white walls of the house, which are scarcely relieved in their +monotony by the small and shuttered windows. The doorway is regularly +Eastern, quite a “Sublime Porte” in miniature. Broad, shallow steps lead +up to it, forming an admirably-arranged _mise-en-scène_ for the grouping +of white-clothed “Sikari” (consular guards) and Indian suppliants in +gaudy costumes. The frame of the door, which is itself garnished with +immense copper nails, is delicately and intricately carved in black +wood, with arabesque designs and letter scrolls. + +Entering here, you come upon a small recess, with ogival niches round +the walls—a sort of anteroom—and from this a winding staircase ascends +to the first-floor, when you find yourself in the interior gallery +surrounding the four sides of the _patio_, or hollow square, which is +the ground-plan of most Saracenic buildings. From the centre of the +_patio_ rises a graceful areca-palm, which contrasts pleasingly with the +formal arches of the gallery. The house ascends to several storeys, and +is surmounted by flat terraces of varying height; but round the _patio_, +on the first-floor, the principal dwelling-rooms are ranged. These are +all Arab in character—narrow, high-pitched, lighted with little windows +with deep embrasures. The walls are dead white, cut into by false arches +of slightly horse-shoe shape, forming alternate recesses wherein shelves +of pottery, bookcases, or cabinets may be placed. Within the arches, +too, are further niches, cut deeper into the wall, with a carved stone +tracery at the back to let in air. These give an effect of lightness to +the somewhat massive walls, and the little points of light gleaming +through the windows of cut stone act as a _point de mire_ in each +recess. There are no pictures on the walls; nothing but coruscations of +Oriental pottery, all of it got from Zanzibar and the neighbouring +coast. The amount of beautiful Persian, Moorish, and even Chinese +pottery and porcelain to be found in Zanzibar is really surprising. Much +of it is hoarded up by old Arab families, who have kept it for +generations in their households, and it only sees the light in +occasional bankruptcies and auction sales. On many parts of this Zangian +coast pottery is fastened into the walls of mosques or plastered on to +tombs, whence—I say it with regret—Europeans do not hesitate to “loot” +it, under the pretext that if they do not the degenerate descendants of +the Oriental settlers will. At places like Lamu the most tasteful +Persian porcelain, rich in colour and very old, was to be easily picked +up but a short while ago, though the sudden rush of greedy travellers +has diminished the supply. Much of this Persian pottery—great bowls of +gorgeous tints, blue and gold plates, vases and cups—decorate the walls +of the Consulate, and lend colour and brightness to its apartments. + +[Illustration: + + A CORRIDOR IN SIR JOHN KIRK’S HOUSE. + + To face page 25. +] + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 6.—Arab Dau. +] + +The windows of two sides of the house look forth on the sea, and command +the entire harbour. All the shipping becomes a study of ever-changing +colour and form. The great black hulks of the steamers, surmounted by +their tall masts and funnels; the snow-sails of the daus coming into +port; the “mtépé,” or native barque, with a huge sail made of matting; +the dismantled daus, with their brown rigging and masts and folded +sails, lying at anchor in the blue still water: and the multitude of +tiny craft, canoes with outriggers, and the canoes that are simple +dugouts—all these form, together with the flags of many nations and the +bright costumes of the native sailors, the blue sky, with its rolling +cumulus-clouds, the placid sea, and the green islands on its horizon, an +infinitely diversified panorama, rather than a picture, but a cheerful +scene, full of bright activity, and a pleasant field of contemplation to +an idle man in a rocking-chair on a shady balcony, who is able to rest +inactive in his cool retreat, and watch the busy work going on around +him. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 7. + + Fishing Boat and Outrigger Canoe. +] + +[Illustration: + + Fig 8.—A Saracenic Doorway. +] + +If you look from the verandah of the Consulate towards the town of +Zanzibar you have a scene of much picturesqueness and colour, and one +which, focussed and framed by the lattice-work that is hung with +creeping plants, becomes a real picture. You see the ships in the +harbour, the canoes and rowing-boats skimming in and out among the large +vessels, then lines of daus all drawn up along the shore of white sand, +with busy crowds of men working round and about them, some unloading, +some repairing, some looking idly on, others stripping for a bathe and +playing at a peculiar game in the water, round the hulls of the +half-floated daus, which consists in turning a somersault and bringing +your legs down with a smack on your companions’ backs. Indeed, the +absence of all social restraint on the shore at Zanzibar might +occasionally ruffle the sensibilities of those of our weaker sex who are +supposed to be shocked at seeing life under somewhat primitive +conditions. There are no “bathing regulations” at Zanzibar, and the +beach immediately below the Consular windows is the favourite resort of +“natives,” who in complete nudity gaily chase each other along the +silver strand, or plunge into the tiny billows and the black ooze of the +nether shore. Indeed, the number of Indians who seem to choose the +purlieus of the British Consulate for performing their ablutions +(doubtless because they look upon it as a right of British subjects to +bathe under their Consul’s eye) render it necessary sometimes to +despatch a Sikari for the purpose of driving the nude Hindoos to remoter +shores, for should the Consul be entertaining the lady residents of +Zanzibar at afternoon tea on the balcony, it is somewhat embarrassing +for their gaze continually to encounter, not the black glistening forms +of the burly negroes on whom nakedness sits with decency, but the yellow +and obese Hindoos, who, with the figures and demeanour of middle-aged +aldermen, are paddling up to their ankles with the innocence and +unconcern of early childhood. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 10.—A View over the Housetops. +] + +The buildings of Zanzibar along the shore-line are gifted with an +adventitious beauty which is derived from contrasts of colour, and +light, and shade. The Sultan’s clock-tower, which rises like a minaret +above the flat-roofed houses, is in reality a structure of vulgar, +tasteless design, but seen from a distance with its ugliness softened +down, it lends considerable point to the harbour view of Zanzibar. The +other buildings are little remarkable for elegance of exterior shape, +but, being all whitewashed or of light-coloured stone, they form under +the sun’s rays a snowy, irregular mass, the outline of which tells out +effectively against a deep blue or a storm-grey sky, and is here and +there relieved by the green cocopalms or the flags of the Sultan’s +palace and the different Consulates. + +[Illustration: + + ZANZIBAR HARBOUR FROM THE CONSULATE. + + To face page 29. +] + +This view at sunset becomes really beautiful. The eastern sky is a +sombre blue-grey, and the water of the harbour reflects the same tint, +unvaried in the evening stillness by a ripple. The long headland of dark +green forest, which stretches out into the sea, lends a deepening tone +to the darkened water and sky, and forms with them an effective foil, a +neutral background to the white tower and the mass of white buildings +which, turned towards the west, reflect on their sympathetic surfaces +the warm glow of the sunset. In the daytime, under the blaze of a +vertical sun, these houses of Zanzibar are disagreeably dazzling, but +now, in this one quiet half-hour of the short evening, they glow with a +soft pink radiance, and their tender blush-colour is heightened by its +background of strangely-coloured eastern sky which, first becoming +sombre blue with the sinking sun, for a brief while grows green with +jealousy of the west and partial reflection of the sunset, and offers a +complementary contrast to the houses at their pinkest. Then, along the +shore, and on the blue bay, the shipping, turned towards the warm light +of evening, loses its blackness and distinct outlines, and fuses into +dusky brown, the mazes of masts and rigging seeming to part with their +perspective and to stick together in one indistinct mass. As the shadows +deepen and the rose-tinted houses fade into dull grey, the stages of the +Sultan’s tower are picked out with yellow lamps, and suddenly from the +summit gleams out in cold radiance a star of more than first +magnitude—Sayyid Barghash has fitted up his clock-tower with the +electric light. + +Any one visiting Sir John Kirk at home will hardly have set foot in his +house many hours without remarking the arrival of an Indian gentleman in +a suit of white clothes of half Asiatic, half European cut, with a +magnificent gold-embroidered turban, a watch-chain, a ring, and an +umbrella. This is Pira Doji, incorrectly known on board the mail +steamers as “The Prime Minister of Zanzibar.” He is really an astute +Indian trader, who by his capacity for business and exceptional talents +as a _raconteur_, has known how to obtain a very large share of the +“Sultan’s” confidence and esteem. Pira Doji is a most useful man to +Sayyid Barghash. Without in reality attaining the position of Prime +Minister or Grand Vizier (the Sayyid has no Ministers, and therefore +rules cheaply), he has yet become a sort of financial adviser to the +Prince of Zanzibar, and is at the same time head-waiter at State +dinners, man-of-business, negotiator in delicate matrimonial affairs, +and the picker-up and retailer of all the town news. If Sayyid Barghash +is mentioned in the _Times_, Pira forthwith goes to the “Sultan” with a +copy of the passage scored round with red chalk. If a European resident +in Zanzibar sprains his ankle, or beats his cook, the “Sultan” likewise +hears of it through the same source. Consequently all new arrivals at +the Consulate become objects of interest to Pira, as likely to furnish +“paragraphs” for his princely gossip. If ever a “Society” paper is +founded in Zanzibar, it will have Pira Doji for its editor. + +His Highness Sayyid Barghash having then heard of our arrival, and as +much of our disposition, antecedents, present intentions, and future +plans as Pira can glean from the Consul’s household, it becomes +incumbent on us to present ourselves, or get our Consul to present us, +at one of the Sultan’s Friday levées. + +Drawn up before his tawdry palace (a ricketty building of many storeys, +of no style whatever, and of execrable taste) is a smart-looking +regiment of the New Zanzibar army, the men in white uniform, with red +and yellow caps, and the officers in white trousers and magnificently +embroidered tunics. At their head stands their organizer and +Commander-in-Chief, General Matthews, who gives the order to present +arms as the Consular party draws near. Then the Goanese band strikes up +“God save the Queen,” and we risk a sunstroke by walking through the +serried ranks of soldiers with our helmets raised above our heads. In +the entry to the palace more guards, Persian and Baluch, are assembled, +and there are crowds of Arabs in gala costumes. Preceded by a kind of +Master of the Ceremonies, we pass along corridors and apartments +furnished in the Neo-Oriental (bastard French) style, and then ascend a +strangely mean and poky staircase covered with scraps of faded +kamptulicon. As we emerge on a small landing, coming up, as it were, +from a stage trap, a tall, portly Arab leans over the stair-rail, and +extends to each in turn a firm, plump hand. It is Sayyid Barghash come +to greet his visitors half way; and though his cordial way of taking you +by the hand and hoisting you up is merely a piece of formal courtesy, +still it is of material assistance to you in emerging from the trap-like +staircase. Preceded by the Sayyid, we are ushered into a long, narrow +reception-room of Arab shape but later French decoration. Except for the +fine Persian carpet which goes the whole length of the apartment, there +is little to note that is pleasing to a critical eye. The furniture is +red velvet and gilt wood. Round the walls are ranged medley assemblages +of kitchen clocks, ormolu timepieces, aneroid barometers, thermometers, +anemometers, telescopes, opera-glasses, musical-boxes, swords, spears, +guns, pistols, toys of ingenious kinds, photographic albums, photographs +glazed and framed and faded, and what not else. The upper end of the +room, where the “Sultan” ordinarily sits, has a large mirror in the +centre, and on either side of the mirror is a full-length oil painting +of Sayyid Barghash. These two paintings are identical in every detail. +They were manufactured in Paris. The Sayyid had a photograph taken of +himself during his visit to London. It was in a sitting posture. He sent +it to Paris with the order that it was to be enlarged standing, and then +converted into two oil paintings. The Parisian artist, in no way at a +loss, cut off the head of the sitting Sultan and stuck it on to the +decapitated portrait of some Algerian Arab photographed erect. The +combination was enlarged, and in due time gave rise to the two oil +paintings in the palace at Zanzibar. + +Sayyid Barghash bin Sa’id, the Prince of Zanzibar, Pemba, and the +Zangian coast, is a man of about forty-five, as far as an Arab’s age may +be guessed. He is tall, somewhat corpulent, and not unhandsome. Were it +not that his face betrays the traces of a too uxorious life, and that he +has for some reason lately cut off his moustache and trimmed his beard +to resemble an English tradesman’s, he might even be called +good-looking. His complexion is clear, his eyes large and fine, though +faded with excesses, and his teeth white and perfect. The Sultan’s feet +are just of that ideal type that Sir Frederick Leighton loves to paint, +and which, until I saw them peeping from Sayyid Barghash’s sandals, I +never believed to exist. The feet and hands of the Sultan of Zanzibar +are the most beautifully formed I ever saw in a man, and he is justly +proud of them; but alas! his symmetry ends at his ankles, for he is +afflicted with elephantiasis—a not uncommon disease in Zanzibar, and his +limbs are swollen and misshapen. Though he speaks no languages but +Arabic and Swahili, he is a better-read man than many a contemporary +Eastern Sovereign, and even aspires to the honours of an author. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 11.—Zanzibar Orchids. +] + +One day four or five servants of the Sultan arrived at the Consulate, +bearing about a dozen volumes of a work in Arabic. This was Part I. of a +Digest of Mohammedan Jurisprudence written by the Sultan, and presented +with his compliments to the British Agent. In conversation, Sayyid +Barghash is often sprightly, and all that he says is marked by +intelligence and good sense. He is simple in his diction, for an Arab, +and sometimes baffles verbose flatterers by his curt replies. I may +remind my readers here of a little incident commented on at the time of +the Sayyid’s visit to England. At his first meeting with Lord +Beaconsfield that statesman thought to set him at his ease by addressing +him in somewhat high-flown Oriental parlance, and met him with the +enigmatic question, “Which does your Highness prefer, flowers or +jewels?” “I fail to see any connection between them,” replied Sayyid +Barghash in all simplicity. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 12.—Kigelia Africana. +] + +An interview with the Ruler of Zanzibar, then, is not of that _fade_ +character which characterizes a ceremonial visit to most Oriental +sovereigns. He poses you with many shrewd questions, and when the +reception is over, the coffee and rose-sherbet drunk, and the Sayyid +hands you down the well-like staircase, and you depart with the band +playing “Rule Britannia,” you feel that you have met a man who, had he +received anything like an education, and had been trained by civilized +ideas of morality to conceal, if not to bridle, his unruly passions, +would have made no mean figure among the world’s rulers and statesmen. + +Sayyid Barghash is the son of the last joint ruler of Maskat and +Zanzibar—Sayyid Sa’id. His mother was an Abyssinian woman. He has nearly +a hundred wives and five or six children, one son only among them. He is +brother to the present Imam of Maskat. His income is approximately +300,000_l._ a year, mostly derived from Customs duties. + +Zanzibar, the chief town of his dominions, known as Unguja to the +inhabitants, has a population of about 90,000. As regards trade it is +the most flourishing and important place in East Africa, and the value +of its exports exceeds at the present time 1,300,000_l._, of which ivory +alone contributes 400,000_l._ The value of the imports is about +1,000,000_l._, and they chiefly consist of cotton stuffs, kerosene oil, +and rice. About 6,000 British subjects reside in the town, mostly +Indians, and in their hands lie the whole retail and most of the +wholesale trade. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 13.—A Street in Zanzibar. +] + +The streets of Zanzibar are paved with a sort of coral “ray,” sometimes +cemented over, and are generally, from the nature of their paving, clean +and inodoriferous. They are very narrow, and the houses in the Arab +quarters are lofty, so that you may walk about most of the town in +perfect shade. There are few really handsome buildings externally, yet +many of the portals to the houses and mosques are gracefully designed in +Saracenic style. Considerable Persian influence is evident in the +general architecture and interior decoration of the mosques and larger +buildings, and the Persian pointed arch (different in shape from the +Syrian or the Moorish) is constantly met with. In fact, to a student of +Saracenic architecture, Zanzibar and the Zangian coast are very +interesting, as they offer not only buildings of great age, some of the +mosques dating back to the tenth century of our era, but of archaic +style, recalling most unmistakably the kind of architecture met with in +Saracenic monuments in Spain of the same age, showing thus how universal +with the early Arab rule was that distinct architectural style which +they developed from the late Byzantine. Just as there are words in +Portuguese and Swahili[7] derived from a common Arabic origin, so the +resemblance between the architecture in Southern Portugal and Spain with +that of Zanzibar may be explained by recalling the fact that the Iberian +Peninsula and the Zangian coast both formed at one time extremities of +Arab rule. While Zanzibar, however, resembles any other Eastern city, +and differs little in outward aspect from Aleppo or Jaffa, yet the +island to which it gives its name is thoroughly tropical African in its +virgin state. The vegetation is rank and rich, and nearly every genus of +the tropical African flora is represented among its plants. There are a +few orchids, supposed to be peculiar, and possibly one or two ferns. +Many trees have been introduced from India, and flourish in a way that +exceeds their development in the mother-country. Magnificent mangoes are +planted all over the island, and the fruit they yield is justly +celebrated for its flavour of strawberries and cream. Of course +pine-apples, oranges, limes, and cocoanuts abound, and fruit here may be +had all the year round in constant variety and great quantity. Many +remarkable and many very beautiful productions in African flora, though +by no means peculiar to this island, may be observed and studied here +with greater facility than on the mainland. Of such are the magnificent +blue _Clitorea_, the extraordinary _Kigelia Africana_, the exquisitely +lovely _Hibiscus schizopetalus_, the _Crinum_ lilies, and the +gorgeous-leaved Crotons. The zoology of Zanzibar is purely African in +its character, as far as it is yet known. Being separated but a few +miles from the mainland, its birds and insects differ little, if at all, +from the parent fauna. It possesses, however, at least two species (in +common with its sister isle of Pemba) of peculiar mammals, viz. the +_Galago Zanzibariensis_ (a kind of Lemuroid), and a handsome monkey, the +_Colobus Kirkii_. This latter, as its name indicates, was brought to +light by Sir John Kirk; it was also extinguished by his means. Like most +great men who have helped to extend the British Empire, Sir John has one +dark blot on his escutcheon. Warren Hastings exterminated the Rohillas, +Governor Eyre was accused of too summarily suppressing the Maroons; Sir +John Kirk, more, perhaps, in the interests of British science than of +British rule, has entirely destroyed an innocent species of monkey. The +_Colobus Kirkii_ had disappeared from nearly every part of the island of +Zanzibar, but a rumour prevailed that it still lingered in a clump of +forest as yet unvisited by hunters. Thither Sir John sent his +_chasseurs_ to report on the monkey’s existence. After a week’s absence +they returned, triumph illumining their swarthy lineaments. “Well, did +you find them?” asked the British Consul-General. “Yes,” replied the men +with glee, “and we killed them every one!” Wherewith twelve monkey +corpses were flung upon the floor, and _Colobus Kirkii_ joined the Dodo, +the Auk, the Rhytina and the Moa in the limbo of species extinguished by +the act of man. + +[Illustration: + + THE BAY OF MBWÉNI. + + To face page 38. +] + +When Sir John Kirk gets conscience-troubled, and the _manes_ of the +avenging _Colobi_ (as negroes would believe) tamper with his health; +when Zanzibar gets stuffy and feverish, and the official routine +tryingly monotonous: he steals away, often on foot, to a little paradise +he has created among the groves of Mbwéni, a tiny settlement on the +coast of the island. Here he lives a life that is to him ideally happy. +He chats with his tenants, who lead Arcadian lives of nothing to do and +plenty to eat; he wanders in a shooting-coat amid the groves of +coco-palms and the clumps of pandanus that border the sea; he +photographs; and, above all, he gardens. Here, among his Cycads and his +Orchids, his Ensetes and his Dracænas, spade in hand, a wide-awake hat +on his head, a rare flower in his button-hole, and rustic contentment +irradiating his face—here, amid scenery which typifies a botanist’s +paradise, Sir John Kirk is emphatically At Home. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 15.—Colobus Kirkii. +] + + + + + CHAPTER III. + THE START—MOMBASA TO TAITA. + + +After a month’s sojourn in Zanzibar, most agreeably spent as the +recipient of Sir John Kirk’s hospitality, all my arrangements for +commencing my expedition to Kilima-njaro were completed. I had hired +upwards of thirty porters, most of them old _employés_ of Mr. Stanley’s +on the Congo, and despatched them to Mombasa in an Arab dau, while I +followed in the mail-steamer going north, accompanied by my personal +servant, a Tamil boy from Ceylon. I took leave of Sir John Kirk with +considerable regret one dark evening after an unusually agreeable +dinner-party, and entered a little rowing-boat, which was to take me to +the steamer, with a feeling of such downheartedness that my calmer +reflections told me Zanzibar was likely to prove my African Capua. After +my own experience I could realize now how previous explorers had been +unnerved and unfitted for the rough life of the wilderness by the +luxurious and easy-going life in Zanzibar. Fortunately the steamer I was +journeying in to Mombasa was the same vessel which had brought me down +to Aden, so that I once more found myself among friends. The night I +left Sir John Kirk’s was stiflingly hot, and the steamer was full of +passengers—I shuddered at passing the night in a poky cabin with three +other inmates. The captain saw my hesitation, and offered most kindly to +rig up a cot for me on deck. I accepted his proposal eagerly, forgetting +the danger in it, of which both of us were unaware. The steamer, +according to custom, would remain all night in Zanzibar harbour, and +leave at dawn. Now—and this is the only reason I record this +incident—there is no surer way of getting a bad fever than to sleep in +the open air in a tropical port. The reasons for this are many and would +take up a great deal of time and space to describe properly; I therefore +confine myself to the dogmatic assertion, which I here record in the +interest of such of my readers as may be proceeding to the tropics, and +are likely to be tempted to pass a quiet night in harbour on the cool +upper deck instead of in their stuffy berths below. Sleep in the air as +much as you like at open sea, but never when you are lying off shore in +a port or land-locked bay. I paid the penalty of this one night’s +mistake in a very bad fever which attacked me soon after I landed at +Mombasa, and left me horribly weak from its effects. Most fortunately, +in my hour of extremity, I had fallen among friends. Captain Gissing, +the Vice-Consul, was my host, and not only quartered me and my baggage +in his Consulate, but also put up my thirty Zanzibar followers, an act +of kindness for which I fear he was ill-rewarded by their noisy +behaviour and continual squabbles with the populace of the town. So kind +was Captain Gissing, that I was not made aware of this till after my +recovery, and I beg to thank him again here for his considerate +patience. The men were anything but bad fellows, but I suppose, finding +themselves masterless with plenty to eat and nothing to do, they waxed +riotous. In the meantime, the Rev. Mr. Handford, of the Church +Missionary Society, who had brought me round in the crisis of my fever, +carried me off to his station of Frere Town on the mainland (Mombasa is +an island) to effect my convalescence, which, so pleasant was the +nursing bestowed on me under his wife’s kind care, would have been +quietly enjoyable had I not continually worried myself about my arrested +work. However, my friends were not idle while I lay in enforced +inactivity, and the Revs. A. Downes Shaw, of Kisolutini, and Thomas +Wakefield, of Jomvu, were both busily engaging porters for my caravan. + +At length I was so far recovered as to resume my preparations for +departure, and I once more repaired to Captain Gissing’s house to pack +my vast quantity of baggage into loads of a more or less uniform weight, +averaging fifty pounds apiece. + +[Illustration: + + MOMBASA. + + To face page 42. +] + +As yet Eastern Africa provides no other means of porterage than human +labour, and all goods and chattels have to be carried on men’s heads and +shoulders. There are donkeys to be bought, it is true, but they never +seem to do well on long journeys, and are in no way to be depended on; +besides, at the time when I was staying at Mombasa, asses were both dear +in price and poor in quality. Thirty of my men had been, as already +mentioned, engaged in Zanzibar, and it would have been far better for +the fortunes of my caravan had I recruited all the porters of my +expedition at that place, for the men who frequent the capital and +emporium of the dominions of Sayyid Barghash are of a better stamp than +the worthless A-nika and A-rabai that inhabit the vicinity of Mombasa. +Why this should be is a problem very difficult to solve, and one not +altogether unsurrounded by thorny questions. I am afraid that in +recording my downright bad opinion of the native carriers—many of them +professing Christians—which are to be found in the vicinity of the +English missionary stations near Mombasa, I am giving pain to my very +kind friends, the missionaries who labour in those parts. I am sorry for +this, for I am aware, more than any one perhaps, how thoroughly +deserving of respect and support is their unselfish work in those +regions. But truth must be told, and in the interests of travellers who +succeed me in these districts, I warn them never, if they can help it, +to engage porters at Mombasa. Independently of all questions of +religion—Mohammedan and Christian alike—the inhabitants of the Mombasa +district are a thoroughly bad lot. It is hopeless to win them by +kindness, or infuse a spirit of discipline by sternness. They are liars, +cowards, thieves, and drunkards. They were so when Krapf, the earnest +pioneer of Christian missions, first came among them; they are so still, +after nearly forty years of evangelization. Why is it that men got from +Zanzibar, Pangani, Mozambique, or elsewhere, should be so much superior? +It must be some inherent fault in the local race, because the few men +whom I obtained from the Mombasa missions that were _not_ natives of +Mombasa, but had been trained in the mission schools, turned out all +that could be desired. + +However, being unaware of all this, I had already vicariously engaged +the bulk of my porters at Mombasa, fearing to be disappointed at +Zanzibar, as there is often a paucity of caravan-men in that place, +owing to the constant demand. Even before I started for the interior, +the true character of the Mombasa men began to dawn upon me, but I +hesitated to take the extreme step of dismissing them and sending to +Zanzibar for others, because this would, firstly, be very expensive, and +secondly, for the reason that they were only engaged for one month to +transport my goods to the mountain, and there leave me with my nucleus +of thirty Zanzibaris. Moreover, I was feverishly anxious to leave +Mombasa, feeling sure that I should never shake off the effects of my +illness till I left the unhealthy coast; and without worrying myself +about a change of men, I had quite sufficient hindrance and vexatious +delay in the purchase and packing of the necessary goods for sale and +barter in the interior. + +The great staple of East African trade and the chief currency of all +countries lying inland, is “merikani,” or American sheeting. I had to +purchase several huge bales of this at Zanzibar and transport it to +Mombasa, there to be split up into loads of five gora each. A “gora,” or +“jora,” is about forty-two yards, and in sheeting of medium quality, +weighs 12 lbs., so that each load of five gora weighed 60 lbs., and was +a fair burden for a single porter. There were many other kinds of +“cloth” (“cloth” becomes in Africa a generic name for all dry goods) to +be taken. “Kaniki,” or indigo-dyed cotton; gaudy red handkerchiefs from +Manchester looms; “bandeira,” or Turkey-red; “kikoi,” or handsomely +bordered waistbands, fringed every two yards; richly dyed stuffs from +Western India and the Persian Gulf, “maskati,” “dubhani,” “sabhai,” &c. +All these in common with the “merikani,” had to be carefully divided +into loads averaging 55 lbs. or 60 lbs.; each load counted and +catalogued in its amount to check the stealing of any of its contents, +and then finally sewn up in a peculiar kind of grass matting, very +strong, and almost impervious to rain. Next, the beads had to be +considered. It was necessary to take with the expedition different kinds +and colours, for in East Africa, as I remarked on the River Congo, there +are most varied and capricious tastes to consult among the natives, and +scarcely two villages concur in their canons of taste. Thus, you must +take different sizes of blue bead, called by the Wa-swahili _maji +bahri_, or “sea-water,” for although an entire tribe may affect one +shade of blue in their bead necklaces, yet each individual will have +special opinion as to the correct size of the bead. Then there are large +ruby-red beads and white ones, and tiny pink and medium-sized black, and +transparent blue. When the beads are bought in sacks from the traders, +they are only threaded on rotten, worthless thread, and it is impossible +to trade with them before they have been re-threaded securely. For this +purpose you purchase on the coast a stout twine, made, I fancy, from the +fibre of a Raphia palm, and then you set your men to work to re-thread +all the beads. This task, of course, gives them immense opportunities +for quiet pilfering, for the beads in their eyes are almost like +coinage; so not only must you keep a sharp eye on the little groups of +four or five merry black men who are so blithely slipping bead after +bead along the yellow strings of palm-fibre, but each man’s lot must be +carefully weighed before and after its transference from the old thread +to the new. Even with every precaution some loss always takes place +during the process, and a day or two after this task is over you are +surprised and grieved to see one of your most trusted followers reeling +about the streets of the coast town, drunk on the proceeds of the +misappropriated beads. + +If you are likely to travel through countries ranged over by the Masai, +large coils of iron wire must be taken, as these predatory people +greatly value it, and turn it to many useful ends in their simple +manufactures. Natives of all tribes in East Africa are also fond of +copper and brass wire of every thickness, the very large sizes being +coiled into bracelets or anklets, and the finer sorts used with much +ingenuity to ornament gun-stocks, the hafts of knives, or the rods of +spears. Finally, to this already extensive list of goods must be added a +few sacks of cowries, barrels of trade gunpowder, tin boxes of +percussion-caps, looking-glasses, large and small butchers’ knives, +bells, mouse-traps, and cheap musical instruments; while as presents for +chiefs of special importance, fancy articles have to be taken, such as +musical-boxes, accordions, guns of superior make, playing-cards, fine +snuff, and gaudy picture-books. I was myself provided with a huge roll +of coloured plates from the _Graphic_ and other illustrated papers, +which I found made a most satisfactory impression on chiefs of an +æsthetic turn of mind, already cloyed with the cloth, beads, and brass +wire of the ordinary trader. When all these wares had been selected, +assorted, and packed, I had further to add to our encumbrances by +purchases of food for myself and the men, as the country through which +our journey lay was almost uninhabited and devoid of cultivation. For +myself I added crates of potatoes and onions, and a dozen live fowls to +my precious stock of preserved provisions; while for the men, large +quantities of Indian corn and beans were bought. How easily fed these +Swahili porters are! What other race would be content to trudge twenty +miles a day with a burden of sixty pounds, and be regaled on nothing but +maize and beans? + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 17.—The Shaws’ House, Kisolutini—the first Mission Station in + East Africa. +] + +At length all my arrangements were finished. The men had received and +spent their advanced wages, and had sobered down after the drunken spree +by which they nearly always inaugurate a journey into the interior. I +myself was ready and anxious to be off. I longed for the bracing air of +the inland plateaux to dispel the weakening fever from which I suffered, +and gladly stepped into Captain Gissing’s pretty skiff, in which the +first stage of the journey might be made, for several tidal creeks +extend inland from Mombasa for a distance of nearly twenty miles. My men +journeyed by land, and we all met again in the vicinity of the mission +station of Rabai. After one night spent with Mr. and Mrs. Wakefield at +Jomvu, and a pleasant rest with the Shaws at Kisolutini, I was at length +launched alone into the wilderness, rather relieved than otherwise at my +unaccustomed solitude. My party consisted of one hundred and twenty men. + +The first day’s tramp into the interior was very trying. Owing to the +scarcity of water, I had resolved to make a long march to a place called +Gora, at a distance of about thirty miles from my starting point. I gave +my caravan a little start ahead of me, and followed leisurely in a +hammock, feeling at first too weak from fever to be able to go on foot. +In fact, what with anterior weakness and a blazing sun, I felt in such a +stupid condition that I hoped, during the first day of my travels, to be +allowed to journey peacefully without undue exercise of energy. But it +was not to be, and perhaps fortunately so, since there is nothing that +dispels the languidness of fever so speedily as the necessity for +vigorous action. After some hours’ easy jog-trot in my net-hammock, I +came up with the bulk of my caravan, and found all the men reclining in +the pleasant shade of a leafy wood. The Zanzibaris rose somewhat +apologetically, and with a show of respect, but the men of Rabai and +Mombasa merely looked at me with stolid unconcern, and several yawned +unrestrainedly in my face when I questioned them as to the cause of this +prolonged halt. The head-man of these Christian—save the mark!—porters +then informed me that his men considered the walk to Gora too long to be +undertaken in a day, and had chosen this pleasant spot to repose in +during the sultry hours. I called on the laggards to take up their +burdens and go on; I maintained that I alone had the power to order a +halt; that the morning was still fresh, and that if we rested now we +should never reach the water-place by nightfall—in vain, I was only met +with sullen looks and murmurs of dissent. + +Now was the crisis in which my authority was to be asserted or for ever +to be subordinated to the men’s caprices. The Zanzibaris were waiting to +see how I should act, and would gauge my disposition by the way in which +I met my first difficulties. In fact, the scene in which this conflict +of wills took place was not ill-disposed for effect. A slight depression +or basin was sunk in the centre of the clearing, in which the +dissentient porters and their loads were grouped, and around ran an +amphitheatre-like rise of ground, whereon stood a file of Zanzibaris +awaiting the outcome of our dispute before taking sides. No longer +addressing an indiscriminate crowd, I called on one man to pick up his +burden and take the road. He promptly and curtly refused, and as quickly +my Indian servant had him by the heels, whilst I soundly trounced him +with his own walking-stick. This was quite a sufficient display of +force. Whilst the recalcitrant porter was still screaming abjectly for +pardon, and I was still gravely counting the strokes of the +wand—eight!—nine!—ten!—eleven!—the other men had hoisted their loads on +their bullet-heads, and were falling into file along the narrow path, +leaving my servant and myself alone with the victim of our wrath. The +very hammock-men had disappeared, and hurried forward in an excess of +zeal. But I was almost independent of them now. The temporary burst of +just anger not only brought a flush of colour to my pallid face, but +seemed to restore strength to my limbs, and I strode on now by the side +of the caravan, exhorting and encouraging the men till we had all +regained our good humour, and even the scapegoat himself emerged from +sulky silence, and gave a half-humorous, half-dolorous account of his +beating to the men walking near him. + +I had now a little leisure to observe the character of the scenery +through which we were passing. There were no hills at present in sight, +and the view was bounded by the scrub and stunted trees which closed up +round the narrow path. Nevertheless, the want of landscape beauty was +atoned for by the vivid glory of the wild flowers, which now, at the +close of the rainy season, were in perfection of bloom. That beautiful +genus _Commelyna_ (a monocotyledonous plant allied distantly to the +spider-worts) gave us species with pale blue, ultramarine, and +citron-yellow blossoms. I marvel that the _Commelynæ_, commonest of +African flowers, have never been introduced by European floriculturists. +Under cultivation they ought to yield beautiful displays of colour, and, +as many species grow on the flanks of Mount Kilima-njaro in an English +temperature, there is no reason why they should not supplant the lobelia +in our garden borders, and yield a vivid sheet of rich blue blossoms far +surpassing the feeble flowerets of the last-mentioned plant. Many other +wild flowers make themselves noticeable by their abundance and beauty in +this district between Gora and Rabai, which lies at about thirty to +forty miles from the coast, and receives more rain and humidity from the +not far distant Indian Ocean than the sterile steppes further westward. +Great, tall, terrestrial orchids of the _Lisso-chilus_ genus border the +pathway, and display their graceful heads of blossoms, which are mauve, +or bright yellow, or yellow and purple, according to the species. Then +there are spotted-leaved aloes, with sprays of waxy-pink flowers, great +prickly candelabra euphorbias, with tiny green inflorescence, and other +smaller euphorbias with large, weird flowers of a dull, dead +purple-brown. White and blue clitoreas trail over harsher shrubs, and +enliven the grey-green bush with tender colour. _Crinum_ lilies are +lavish in squandered bloom, and the air is fragrant with a thousand +odours, to which the flowers of acacias, climbing jessamines, and +corissas powerfully contribute. + +We reached Gora that night by the light of the moon, but as my tardy +porters had lagged behind, I arrived at the camping-place without tent, +bed, or provisions, and not only had to lie down to sleep supperless, +but blanketless; and, as the night air was unusually chilly, my health +was not improved by these privations. The next day we fortunately had +but a march of sixteen miles to accomplish; nevertheless the men went +very badly. We stopped in the morning at Samburu, a pleasant place, with +once-cultivated plantations run wild. Here there was indifferent water +in clefts in the rocks, and we set to work to prepare our midday meal. +We waited for the laggards of the caravan until four o’clock, and then, +too impatient to delay any longer, I took advantage of the cool +afternoon and limped on to my next camping-place. By midnight all were +at length reassembled, but I resolved in future, if it were only to +avoid anxiety, to walk behind instead of before the caravan, and not to +pass any one on the road; thus, I should always arrive simultaneously +with my baggage. The following day I put this plan into operation, but +its first results were not encouraging. About every half-hour the Rabai +men would put down their burdens and compose themselves for a nap in the +shade. As these intermittent siestas greatly deranged the uniform +progress of the caravan, I objected, preferring to rest unanimously +every two hours, but walk uninterruptedly whilst on the march. As the +Rabai men were, however, of a different opinion, I now began to meet at +every turn of the path a man’s load without a man, and on inquiry was +told that its whilom bearer had decamped into the bush. Last of all I +counted nearly a dozen of such abandoned burdens, and sat down desperate +by the wayside, not knowing what course to pursue. However, my Zanzibar +men stood by me like trumps, and many of them carried extra loads, and +so brought all the things to our next camping-place at Ziwani. + +Here we arrived at about dusk, although there was scarcely any ending to +the daylight, for we were favoured with a brilliant moon. I now was able +to review my men and rearrange the loads so that all the things might be +carried on the morrow. I retired at last to my tent, thoroughly +exhausted, both with physical fatigue and mental anxiety. Throwing +myself, or rather involuntarily tumbling, on my bed, I felt I was +fainting, and just roused my energies sufficiently to ask my servant to +open my wine-case and get me out some champagne. When a bottle of Moët +and Chandon had been uncorked, and a tumblerful (alas for the delicate +champagne-glass, I had it not!) drunk, an effect as magical as that of +the “hashish” given by the Sheikh of the Mountain to his deluded +followers was produced. Before the foaming draught had passed my lips I +was a poor, despondent creature of the earth, earthy, and tied to the +base soil by physical fatigue and mental prostration; but no sooner had +the sparkling wine entered my system than I was transfigured, +transformed. My fever-dried skin broke out into grateful perspiration, +the fitful pulse resumed a brisk and regular beat—no fainting now. I +felt ready to march anywhere, and my blistered and ulcerated feet pained +me no more. I ate my evening meal in a sort of tranquil ecstasy, and +afterwards undressed dreamily, and steeped all my cares in the Lethe of +sleep. And a cupful of champagne on an empty stomach had sufficed to +work this happy change! + +In case there are some of my readers whom this rhapsody (copied almost +word for word from my diary) may offend, let them understand that I am +singing the praises of champagne as a _medicine_, not as a customary +drink. No one can inveigh more strenuously than I against the daily or +even frequent use of alcoholic drinks in a hot climate. I believe that +in Africa, as a general rule, and under ordinary circumstances, a man +may with benefit to himself abstain _totally_ from the use of wine, +beer, or spirits. But, for the very reason that he rarely indulges in +strong drink, when he does find himself in a state of physical or mental +prostration, especially ensuing from attacks of fever, there is no more +certain tonic than a little _good_ champagne. I have seen cases in +Africa, East and West, where a cupful of champagne administered at an +apparently hopeless juncture has snatched a man from a sinking +condition, and brought him back to life. I only took a dozen of +champagne—and no other wine—with me to Kilima-njaro, and of this dozen +eleven bottles were consumed at various crises in my adventures, when I +felt my physical strength deserting me. Somehow the very knowledge that +you have such a stimulant at hand braces your nerves with mental +confidence, and the happy faith in its sovereign efficacy inspires you +with a cheering belief that Death himself will flee before a goblet of +champagne. + +The name of our last camping-place, “Ziwani,” had a pleasant sound to +the thirsty traveller, for translated into English it means “By the +pool,” and would consequently suggest the close proximity of water. But, +except under favourable conditions, this is not the case at the spot in +question, and, as it happened, Taru, a day’s journey from Ziwani, was +the last place where we had been able to replenish our gourds and +bottles. In consequence of such dearth of water it was necessary that +the distance between Ziwani and Maungu (the next watering-place) should +be covered in a day, and as this was thirty-two miles it meant a forced +march of thirteen hours. My men had willingly allowed me to ignore the +disagreeable necessity, fearing that I might, as I certainly should have +done, force them to break the distance between Ziwani and Maungu by a +night march—a thing they much detested, even when performed by the light +of a full moon, having, like most Africans, a superstitious fear of +night. But being themselves conscious of the long stretch of waterless +country they had to traverse before reaching the mountains of Maungu, +they, for once, were eager and ready to start before their leader’s +call, and consequently when I awoke from that delicious dreamless sleep +caused by the timely draught of champagne, I found myself almost alone, +while a strange and unwonted silence pervaded the camp. The head-man of +the caravan was squatted outside the tent patiently awaiting my +awakening. The Indian servant and the senior cook were busily preparing +breakfast, while just sufficient men remained behind to carry my tent, +bed, and cooking apparatus. + +Learning the cause of my porters’ disappearance, and far from +disapproving such unaccustomed and unprompted activity, I hastily +dressed, swallowed my breakfast, and also prepared myself for the long +journey that lay before us. The bright slanting beams of an hour-old sun +lit up the landscape so cheerfully that the purpose of covering +thirty-two miles by nightfall seemed both feasible and easy of +accomplishment. The air was fresh and buoyant, and either my potion of +the night before or the change from the hothouse atmosphere of the coast +to a more bracing climate had brought back strength to my limbs and +courage to my heart, for I stepped out along the red path at three miles +an hour and enjoyed the exercise. This rate of progress soon brought me +up to the rearguard of those who had started with the earliest dawn, but +whose energy had waned after two or three hours’ hard tramp. Already, +with stupid resignation, many were stretching themselves by the wayside, +having first, to satisfy a moderate thirst, consumed in several gulps +the remainder of the drinking-water which was to carry them through the +day; and, this finished, they were prepared to lie down in utter +hopelessness, feeling themselves unequal to the task of walking +twenty-five miles to the next water-supply or twenty-five miles back to +the last. + +I should parenthetically remark that these East Coast porters, like most +Africans, are utterly without prevision, and so long as they can satisfy +the desire of the moment care little to provide for future wants as yet +unfelt. On long journeys, where there is no water on the road, you will +experience the greater difficulty in preventing your men dropping and +dying of thirst, because, although they may have started with an ample +supply of drinking-water in their gourds—quite sufficient for the time +required if carefully measured out—yet, in spite of warning and +prohibition, they will squander the precious fluid, quench every slight +attack of thirst, and consume it all in a few hours; then, during the +long waterless tramp which ensues, they will wring your heart with the +sight of their sufferings, and stagger along the dusty path with dry, +swollen tongues, parched lips, and bloodshot eyes. + +So it was on this terrible journey to Maungu. Towards midday, when the +noon blazed in fierce white heat, when the sky was so hot and +scintillating that it was devoid of all colour and shone like a silver +shield, when the short, scrubby mimosas gave no sheltering shade under +their thorny boughs, when escape from the overpowering dazzling sunshine +was impossible, and the baked and heated soil seemed to burn the soles +of my boots, and made the men who were still plodding on pick up their +feet like the proverbial dancing bear—then I began to doubt whether my +party would reach Maungu intact, for now it was useless to battle with +the sullen sluggishness of many of the porters, who preferred lying in +the road exposed to hard words and blows rather than toiling patiently +and uninterruptedly on in the direction of water and permissible repose. +So in sheer despair I left them to lie wherever they threw themselves, +accepting in lieu of any other consolation their assurance that they +would follow on in the cooler hours of the day. Now, even, it became +with myself a desperate rush to reach the water-supply before I should +suffer painfully from thirst. An examination of my own store of the +precious liquid had revealed the appalling fact that not one drop +remained, and the man who had been carrying my bottles and calabash +confessed to having assisted in its disappearance. This was a serious +matter; thumping the man did nothing towards allaying my increasing +thirst. All that could be done was to journey on patiently but +unremittingly in the direction of Maungu. There was no time to prepare +food in the middle of the day: I pulled out a tin of hare soup from my +provision box, opened it, and drank the undiluted liquor. The unfinished +bottle of champagne was divided and consumed by myself and my patient +Tamil servant, lending a factitious strength to our tired, overheated +bodies, and so far buoying up our spirits that we strode on past man +after man until we were well ahead of the caravan. + +Soon, however, I needed to rest more and more frequently, stopping at +last to pause and pant in every patch of thin shade. Then my Tamil boy +and the head-collector proposed that they should go on alone and return +to meet me as soon as water was found. This I acceded to, and so was +left completely alone. In this condition, hobbling along painfully, +resting continually, and with foolish persistency painting, to my +thirsting imagination, vivid pictures of cooling draughts, I toiled +through the sultry afternoon, persisting doggedly in my determination +not to give in till I was within measurable distance from water. +Sometimes I did give way—stretched myself languidly under the faint +patchwork of shade that some meagre bush afforded, and lay there during +some minutes, vainly trying to moisten my dried lips with my parched +tongue, and hoping that with the approach of night and its dewy coolness +I might overcome this raging thirst. Then the little lithe lizards would +come and look at me with their heads on one side, and their bright eyes +scanning me half-mockingly; an irate ant would nip my hot hand, which I +had abandoned as if it no longer belonged to me, and carelessly placed +on an unconsidered ant-hill, till at length, weary of my unrestful +repose, I would stagger to my feet, and limp on for a few minutes in +agony, as you always do when you have given blistered feet a brief rest +and then commence walking again. + +I will spare you a further recital of these very ordinary, everyday +African sufferings, so interesting to me to ponder over now that I am +writing about them in England, where thirst is almost desirable from the +many pleasant ways there are of quenching it. I will suppose that I have +stumbled over a rocky path in the waning daylight, toiled on the last +dreary miles of the journey under a rising moon, and at length found +myself amid a strange thicket of thorny trees and weird euphorbias at +the base of the hill of Maungu. In the camping-place where most caravans +stop, I see a small fire burning, a man sitting, and a man lying down. +The former is one of my natural history collectors and the other my +Indian servant, Virapan, who has fainted. I question the collector, a +man called Athmani, and he tells me the water lies in a cup-shaped basin +at the summit of the hill (which is nearly 5000 feet high), and that his +companion and helpmate, Mabruki, has gone to get some. Fancy when you +have walked thirty-two miles for a drink finding your cistern lies some +three or four thousand feet above you! + +With what amount of patience I should have awaited the return of the +water-carrier I do not know, but just at this juncture one of my porters +arrived, and threw down his burden with a weary sigh. I remembered with +joy the contents of the lumpy sack he bore, and rapidly untying its +mouth took from it several cocoanuts. Filling a gourd with their milk, I +was able to assuage the thirst of myself and my servant, who had +returned to consciousness, and we then passed with equanimity the +half-hour that elapsed before Mabruki came back from his quest among the +rocks of Maungu, bearing gourds full of delicious water, clear and cool. + +At this camping-place we remained until the afternoon of the next day, +awaiting the coming in of all the laggards; but my patience was at last +overtaxed, and I resolved to go on with a few followers to Ndara, the +next camping-spot, where we should be in an inhabited country, and with +pleasanter surroundings, for the vegetation in the vicinity of Maungu +was singularly forbidding and ugly, suggesting some enchanted forest, +and, moreover, the water-supply proved scanty and difficult of access. I +left my head-man and a few followers to search for the missing men, and +walked on to Ndara through the moonlight, stopping to sleep for a few +hours before dawn. In the early morning we began to ascend and cross a +rocky ridge, and on surmounting it looked out westward over the plains +or mountain plateaux of Taita. Here our sight was gladdened by clumps of +really green and shady trees, and we were further delighted by the first +signs of evident cultivation. Further on we met some natives, ugly, +nearly naked, and very black, with huge rings of beads in their +wide-lobed ears, and greeting them with effusive friendliness we induced +them to follow us to our camp with a few eatables (sweet potatoes and +corn-cobs principally), feeling in our delight at once more reaching +habitable country an amiable desire to be on the best of terms with its +inmates. We pitched the tent at the foot of Ndara Hill, near a pool of +dirty water, whither large flocks of cattle came to drink. + +In this not unpicturesque country of rocks and forest trees and lovely +wild flowers I stayed during two days, and at last collected my caravan +round me. Maungu was very nearly being a Moscow to my little army, but +ultimately there was small loss in either men or goods. Some two or +three porters had run back to the coast, leaving their burdens behind, +while two miscreants who carried a case of spirit for preserving natural +history specimens, had broached and drunk the alcohol, and, strange to +say, still survived this extraordinary bout. + +Before I leave Ndara, therefore, I may take this opportunity of +describing, somewhat in detail, the men who were following me to the +steeps of Kilima-njaro, and on whose fidelity the fate of the expedition +entirely depended. The head-man of the entire caravan was Kiongwe, a +pleasant-spoken, rather plain young man of about thirty, who had served +much on the Congo, and had accompanied Stanley thither in his first +expedition, in proof of which he wore a massive silver ring. Kiongwe +(whose name meant in Swahili a “headstrong jackass,” and who was +therefore politely called by his inferiors “Shaongwe” in order that his +name might not be too closely interpreted) was good-tempered, +respectful, and fairly brave, but could not always be trusted with +property, as he felt now and then an irresistible temptation to +appropriate a little of his master’s cloth and beads. However, he made a +good head-man, for if lenient to his own occasional dishonesty he +watched well that no one else robbed me. The second in command was +Abdallah, another old Congo traveller, and a learned Arab scribe. +Excelling Kiongwe in politeness and suavity of demeanour, he also erred +somewhat as regards strict honesty, but was on the whole a very good +fellow. His manners and mode of life were quite fastidiously +gentlemanly, and his person was always, and under every circumstance, +clean and sprucely apparelled. Without being in the least religious he +had a gusto for prayers, and all his leisure moments were employed in +the rapid and glib recital of the Koran. I once asked him what would be +his ideal mode of life. “Kusoma Muungu, sikuzote”—“To be always praying +to God,” he replied, with the faintest hypocritical tone of +self-satisfaction in his voice. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 18.—Virapan, my Tamil Servant. +] + +Then in order of precedence came Mabruki and Athmani, two natural +history collectors, men who, by accompanying several preceding African +travellers, had acquired a rough knowledge of preparing specimens. The +further history of these two gentlemen will be disclosed as this +narrative proceeds. My two cooks deserve a word of mention. Faraji, the +elder, was a busy old man of the Yao tribe, who had accompanied Cameron +across Africa and further served a three-years’ term on the Congo. He +was the strongest man in the caravan, and his only fault was a somewhat +large style of housekeeping, by which himself and his colleagues were +amply fed out of the remains of my dinner. Cephas, the junior cook, +often called Cephassi by the soft-tongued Zanzibaris, was originally a +freed Nyassa slave. Educated at the Nassick Mission, near Bombay, he had +been taught to cook in a way that generally procured him good +situations. He had visited England and there acquired certain useful +expletives which served him as augmentative, diminutive, intensifying, +and modifying adverbs, and lent great expression to his simple English. +Beneath the rank of the men already cited, whose wages were specially +fixed, came a troop of Zanzibaris on their promotion, who received a +uniform rate of five dollars a month. Among these, however, I had +noticed already several as good servants or cheerful, conscientious +men—Ibrahim and Kadu Stanley, especially. Ibrahim was nick-named +“Mčekesaji,” a word which you will find translated in Steere’s +dictionary “a merry, laughing body.” Kadu Stanley was remarkable as +having been an old servant of Stanley, to whom he had been given by +Mtesa, King of Buganda. After the Zanzibaris came a herd of Rabai and +Mombasa men, solely remarkable for their hopelessly bad disposition and +for the quaint combination of Christian and heathen names they assumed. +I had only engaged them to carry the bulk of my goods to Kilima-njaro, +and when we had attained that goal I took leave of them without regret. + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + TAITA TO KILIMA-NJARO. + + +Having once more reassembled the men, rearranged the burdens, and left +behind what we could not carry in the kind charge of a missionary who +was temporarily residing on the summit of Ndara Hill, we started on a +day’s journey to Mwatate, passing through dense thorny bush, rocky +defiles, and dried-up stream courses, and finally reaching, to my joy, +the first channel of running water we had met with since leaving the +vicinity of the coast. The ground along its banks had been cleared and +cultivated; we crossed the stream on a rickety wooden bridge, and passed +up through fields of maize and brakes of sugar-cane to our +camping-place, under an umbrageous tree. Here pleasant-mannered natives +greeted us; we paid the small present demanded as an indemnity for +passing through their country and drinking “their” water, and then +enjoyed a welcome rest amid surroundings of quiet beauty. The next day +we were travelling through a Swiss-like country of mountain passes and +richly fertile valleys, and at length came to Bura, a camping-place at +the foot of the strangely peaked mountains of that name. Here we were +nearly having a skirmish with the natives, who demanded an exorbitant +payment for the right of drinking from their river. However, a resolute +attitude on our part preserved the peace, and we were soon on excellent +terms with the Wa-taita, buying fowls, maize, and honey at a great rate. +On the morrow we skirted the little river of Bura for a few miles, and +then, reluctantly leaving its belt of rich, majestic forest, plunged +resolutely into the waterless wilderness which separated us from the +base of Kilima-njaro. + +[Illustration: + + ANTELOPES AND ANT HILLS (THE RED HARTEBEEST). + + To face page 65. +] + +Although the journey before us was a far longer one than that terrible +march to Maungu, it was, nevertheless, marked by no sufferings from +fatigue and thirst, for I had the men now well in hand, and was careful +to ascertain that no one had started without a due supply of water. The +country we passed through was indeed a wilderness, but yet rather +parklike in its aspect. There was an entire absence of undergrowth, and +tallish trees with cedar-like crowns rose at regular intervals, looking, +in their uniformity of unvarying red trunks and bright green compact +foliage, like an unskilfully painted landscape. Other noticeable +features in the scene were the tall red ant-hills and, strange +imitation, the tall red antelopes, a species of hartebeest,[8] +resembling faintly in shape the form of a giraffe with sloping +hind-quarters, high shoulders, and long neck. Being a deep red-brown in +colour, and standing one by one stock-still at the approach of the +caravan, it was really most difficult and puzzling sometimes to know +which was hartebeest and which was ant-hill; for the long grass hiding +the antelope’s legs left merely a red-humped mass, which, until it +moved, might well be the mound of red earth constructed by the white +termites. The unconscious mimicry was rendered the more ludicrously +exact sometimes by the sharply-pointed, flag-like leaves of a kind of +squill—a liliaceous plant—which frequently crowned the summit of the +ant-hill, or grew at its base, thus suggesting the horns of an antelope, +rather with the head erect, or browsing low down. The assimilation +cannot have been fancied on my part, for it deceived even the sharp eyes +of my men; and again and again a hartebeest would start into motion at +twenty yards distance and gallop off, while I was patiently stalking an +ant-hill, and crawling on my stomach through thorns and aloes, only to +find the supposed antelope an irregular mass of red clay. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 20.—Zebras. +] + +The great plain which lies between the country of Taita and the eastern +base of Kilima-njaro swarms with game, especially where the land slopes +gently towards Lake ǰipe, which may be descried to the southward as a +narrow slit of silvery white lying between a band of dull green forest +and the purple wall of the Ugweno Mountains. As we marched along herds +of hartebeest, gnu, eland, and buffalo defiled before us, wending their +way slowly along their own beaten tracks to the accustomed +drinking-place, where, poor fools, some of them were sure to lose their +lives, for, lying in ambush in the forest tunnel, down which the thirsty +creatures rush to the water, would be either lions, leopards, or human +hunters, armed with poisoned arrow and broad-bladed spear. But however +much a keen desire to drink might blind them to danger when they are +near their goal, they were wary enough now, and their sentinels kept a +sharp look-out on our movements; only the giddy zebras—most inquisitive +of animals—risked their lives by galloping up to inspect the passing +caravan. The sight of all this game was potent enough to stir a hunting +impulse in the soul of the most jaded traveller; and although I found it +hard enough to plod along the dusty track in the rear of the caravan, +and avoid the impulse to cast myself down and rest in every patch of +sparsely scattered shade, still I did every now and then make a sally at +some wondering antelope that stood in the distance staring, snorting, +and occasionally stamping petulantly with its fore-feet at the strange, +inexplicable, snake-like line of white-vestured men slowly winding over +the plain. But my attempts at stalking, and my snap-shots were too +impatient and hurried to meet with any definite success. The fact is, in +African travel, it is not easy to combine the accomplishment of twenty +or thirty miles walked every day on foot, with the exploits of the +chase, especially when haunted by the knowledge that every minute’s +delay that separates you from your water-supply is dangerous. You leave +the road just to stalk a group of zebras grazing not more than two +hundred yards off, and you think if you can only creep up to that +ant-hill and hide behind it, you will get a splendidly easy shot. Well, +the ant-hill is reached, but the zebras have moved off a little farther, +and now there is a stumpy mimosa-tree between you and your aim. However, +it is a matter of a few paces to crawl up to it and fire from behind its +branches. You reach the tree, and just as you are going to raise your +gun you crack a dead twig, and the zebras move and trot off some +distance farther. Now it is too long a shot to risk, but as the game is +grazing peacefully and unsuspiciously again, you may just as well creep +up a little nearer and then fire. So you go down on allfours in the +grass, and crawl along, putting your hands invariably down on cruel +thorns or sharp twigs every time they touch the ground; your back aches +with the snake-like posture you assume, and when at length you +cautiously raise your head above the grass and dare to look frankly +before you, you find the zebras have moved on again, and you either +crawl after them, infatuated with the love of hunting, or in desperation +foolishly fire your gun at a distant speck, and of course miss, when all +that remains of the animals you have stalked is a light cloud of red +dust hanging in the hot air. And now you become fully conscious of how +foolish you have been to leave the caravan. How hot the sun is! And your +blistered feet ache as you limp back through the stubbly grass to find +the track once more, of course tripping up a dozen times over unseen +stumps and stones, and finally reaching the road to see your caravan +represented by a few white specks in the extreme distance, these white +specks now hurrying on with aggravated speed, just as if they knew you +were limping painfully after them, and wished to pay you out for the +many times when, they being tired and halting, you, burdenless and +fresh, had remorselessly driven them on. And so with many sensible +reasons you vow that nothing shall tempt you from the road again, for, +even supposing you killed anything, can you stop the caravan for many +hours while the meat is cooked and the skin cured? Of course not, +why—and here you interrupt these reflections by exclaiming excitedly to +your servant, “Oh, look here; I can’t stand this. Give me my gun—sh! +don’t you see that sable antelope—_there!_ standing under the shade of +the big tree;” and so hurriedly taking aim you fire, and oh! joy, the +antelope falls, evidently wounded, but, alas! not to the death, for it +is up and off again before your next shot can finish the work, and like +an idiot, you forget your sore feet and fatigue, and go racing after it +over stocks and stones till once more you find it is in vain to combine +the cares of a marching caravan and the pleasures of the chase. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 21. + + Sable Antelope. +] + +The expedition had been toiling on across the hot plains of Lanjora +through the sultry afternoon, and now towards evening stopped to lay +down its many burdens amid the dusty tufts of scorched grass round the +base of a great mimosa-tree. Only one hour might we rest, for water lay +two days behind us and one long day’s journey in front, and we intended +but to stretch our tired legs on the lumpy soil until the obscurity +prevailing after sunset was dispelled by the uprising of the full moon. +Then beneath her cooler rays we should journey on towards our goal for +half the night, and so be spared a longer walk through the heat of the +morrow’s sun. The day had been sultry, and, though the rainy season was +over, the western sky was a mass of lurid clouds, which in one part of +the horizon were particularly dark and concentrated. I knew what caused +this, and what object these cloud-masses were jealously concealing like +the courtiers and officials who surround the person of some Eastern +emperor; and I, who had journeyed many weary miles to see the greatest +snow-capped mountain of Central Africa, impatiently longed for some +giant broom to clear the sky of those heavy mists and vapours which now +hid him from my gaze. + +Slowly a globe of yellow-white rose in the east and mounted into the +clouds, from whence a softened light descended, and showed the track +across the plain winding away like a crooked snake towards the west. +With many an impatient sigh and grunt the weary men took up their +burdens, and I, no less tired, but compelled to show my porters an +encouraging example, staggered on to my blistered feet and limped along +in front of the caravan, which, once more on the move, jogged on with +little heart till midnight. Then we could no more; so, making fires to +keep off the wild beasts, we stopped to rest till dawn. With the falling +temperature of the small hours, a brisk wind arose from the heated plain +and swept the clouds from off the sky, all except the mass that +obstinately clung to Kilima-njaro. Feverish and over-tired, I could not +sleep, and sat and watched the heavens, waiting for the dawn. A hundred +men were snoring around me, and the night was anything but silent, for +the hyenas were laughing hideously in the gloom outside our circle of +expiring embers. At five o’clock I woke my servant Virapan, and whilst +he was making my morning coffee I dropped into a doze, from which, at +dawn, he roused me, and pointed to the horizon, where, in the +north-west, a strange sight was to be seen. “Laputa!” I exclaimed; and +as Virapan, though he had read “Robinson Crusoe” and the “Arabian +Nights” in his native tongue, had never heard of “Gulliver’s Travels,” I +proceeded to enlighten him as to the famous suspended island of Swift’s +imagining, and explained my exclamation by pointing to the now visible +Kilima-njaro, which, with its two peaks of Kibó and Kimawenzi and the +parent mass of mountain, rose high above a level line of cloud, and +thus, completely severed in appearance from the earth beneath, resembled +so strangely the magnetic island of Laputa. + +[Illustration: + + THE FIRST VIEW OF KILIMA-NJARO. +] + +Kilima-njaro was weird in the early flush of dawn, with its snowy crater +faintly pink against a sky of deep blue-grey, wherein the pale and faded +moon was sinking, and the stars were just discernible; but as the +stronger light of perfect day prevailed, and the clouds which concealed +the base of the mountain disappeared, its appearance was disappointing. +Owing to an atmospheric illusion Kilima-njaro, which was in reality +about forty miles distant, appeared to rise from the plain just beyond a +distant clump of trees, and its greater peak of snow, so distinctly +crater-like in form, together with the lesser and more jagged Kimawenzi, +were as hard and commonplace in look as the cheap Italian water-colour +drawings of Vesuvius, charged with “body-colour,” and devoid of ærial +effect. Kilima-njaro, now, was not imposing, and I soon ceased to +realize its great height when it looked not much farther off than the +farther groups of trees. As the day grew warm it was once more hidden +behind layers of clouds, and I marched on towards my destination +somewhat disappointed. + +For some two days since leaving the mountains of Taita we had been +crossing a waterless tract with poor herbage of dusty-brown or +yellow-white, and grey, withered trees, and real verdure had been denied +us; but now on reaching a point within some thirty miles of Kilima-njaro +a change of an agreeable character came over the scene.[9] Tall +umbrageous trees cast a welcome shade over the short herbage, which was +closely cropped like a lawn by the many herds of antelopes. The bushes +were vividly green, and some of them bore tufts of bright-coloured +flowers. Many birds frequenting the bushy trees attested the proximity +of water—we were, indeed, close to a little affluent of Lake ǰipe—and +the feeling that we were now without threatened thirst added to the +pleasure of the morning’s walk, and promised for the future less arduous +journeyings. I was, therefore, beginning to relax my strict watch over +the men, and knowing there was no need for hurry now that we were +perceptibly nearing our goal, I was sauntering along easily in advance +of the caravan, when my servant Virapan tugged me by the shoulder, and +said, “What is that big animal, sir?” + +I looked along the path in front, and saw, to my great astonishment, a +lion quietly trotting ahead of us. As he heard the sound of a voice he +unconcernedly looked round, gave us one penetrating glance, made a few +hesitating steps, and then stopped to stare again. A mad impulse to fire +seized me, and although my sporting gun was behind with the caravan, I +took the Snider from my servant’s hands, aimed it hastily, and fired. No +sooner had the smoke cleared away than I saw the lion bounding away in +great leaps over the low bushes, evidently untouched by the bullet. He +entered a dense mass of thorny acacias and there stopped. My +head-collector coming up, we followed him to this refuge, and I can +assure you I felt then anything but comfortable, for we could see, amid +the thickly-interlaced twigs, literally nothing, while a deep ominous +growling reached our ears, so strangely divested of “locality” that we +could neither of us determine the exact spot from which it proceeded. We +now decided to withdraw with all due caution, and backed respectfully +from the presence of the king of beasts till we had once more regained +the road, where we found most of the carriers awaiting anxiously the +result of our encounter. Disliking to be baffled, I proposed that we +should organize a regular battue, and drive the lion from his shelter, +but nobody liked the idea except my Indian servant, who was inadequate +for the task, so I reluctantly abandoned what might have been a spirited +lion hunt. Towards the afternoon of this day, which had begun in such an +exciting manner, first with the view of Kilima-njaro and next with the +lion, we left every trace of sterility behind us—the very mimosas and +acacias becoming changed and improved in their appearance, exhibiting +more foliage and less thorns—and the track winding through superb +avenues of lofty umbrageous trees. After many days of journeying in a +sun-scorched wilderness my tired eyes here rested with delight on the +soft green of the exuberant vegetation, while I no longer tramped along +a stony road under a blazing sun, but followed a soft leaf-covered path +plunged in absolute shade. We were now in the precincts of Taveita, but +before we actually entered that African paradise we were obliged to halt +at a gateway in the forest where the path was blocked with an immense +structure of tree-trunks. Just a tiny aperture was left, an entrance +three feet high in the shape of a delta, and through this we all had to +wriggle and crawl, while several of the loads would scarcely admit of +passing through, and only the most ingenious twisting and turning +effected this end. + +The first barrier passed we found ourselves in a small square chamber, +really a space between two gateways, where in times of war and rapine +suspicious visitors could be inspected and interviewed before being +allowed to enter. There was, however, no one to scrutinize us in this +gateway, because the “passport” regulations of Taveita have been greatly +relaxed of late years, but a few decades back this elaborate hindrance +to free transit was the only protection the wretched Taveitans had +against the merciless assaults of the Masai robber bands. By erecting +these wooden obstructions across the only feasible approaches to their +forest stronghold they checked the impetuous onslaught of the brigands, +and were able, moreover, to kill many of the bewildered Masai with their +guns before these people could creep round or destroy the barrier. As +the Masai never throw their spears, but always use them and most of +their other arms in hand-to-hand conflict, they are naturally at a +disadvantage when opposed to an enemy who has entrenched himself behind +a slight fortification and can use his firearms to advantage. + +Passing in through a second and easier doorway, we found ourselves in +full view of banana plantations, standing out in glistening green +against a background of stately forest. Here and there small groups of +beehive huts stood in a clearing, surrounded by tall wooden fences. We +had fired a salute of guns when approaching Taveita, to announce to its +inhabitants, with many a sonorous boom re-echoing through the forest +alleys, that strangers were arriving with peaceable and friendly +intentions, and a wish to trade. As I was in the act of crossing a +narrow rivulet, by means of the slippery stem of a banana that has been +thrown across it, I caught sight of the first natives, who were on their +way to inspect our caravan, and when I looked up, and they saw my white +face and strange costume, a glad shout of surprise went up from their +wide mouths, and they pushed forward to seize and shake me by the hand. + +Such an unusual and demonstrative welcome gave me a pleasant impression +of Taveita to commence with, and this, I am glad to say, was +strengthened as time went on. Its inhabitants were, however, not only +remarkable for their _bonhomie_ and kindly disposition, but presented +other notable characteristics which were not long in impressing +themselves on my observation. Firstly, their hair was generally worn in +long strings, where the wool was stiffened with fat and red clay into a +number of rats’ tails. There were generally one or two incisors knocked +out in the upper jaw, the lobes of the ear were enormously distended +with wooden cylinders or rings, and lastly, the Wa-taveita, like most of +the natives of Inner Eastern Africa (and unlike those of the West), were +totally ignorant of what we call decency. I would like to express this +more delicately by saying that they were innocent of all clothing, but +this was not the case, as many of the inhabitants wore cloth, or skins, +round their shoulders, either for adornment or when the weather was +chilly with breezes blowing off the snow-capped mountain. + +I felt at home with the Wa-taveita from the first, for they were +thoroughly conversant with Swahili, the coast language—the French of +Eastern Africa, and as I also knew this tongue we had at once a medium +of ready communication. So the natives who had come to meet our caravan, +and trotted along by my side to direct me to the accustomed +camping-place, chattered as we went and not only asked for, but +imparted, information. One of the first questions was, “What is your +name, white man?” “Johnston.” “Jansan?” they shrieked laughingly. “Why +you must me Tamsan’s (Thomson’s) brother.” (Mr. Joseph Thomson, on his +way to Masai-land, had passed through Taveita, leaving a very pleasant +impression behind him. As by an odd coincidence we were both white, and +our names, in the natives’ pronunciation, only differed in the initial +consonant, the evident inference was that, to use the natives’ phrase, +“We were of one mother.”) It would have been of such little use trying +to disabuse them of this happy and likely idea that I accepted tacitly +the suggested relationship, and it was soon noised about Taveita that +Bwana Tamsan’s brother was come, and many of Thomson’s old friends +flocked to greet me. + +Our camp was established in one corner of a vast clearing, nearly square +in shape, whereon certain Swahili traders, _en route_ to Masai-land, had +built a temporary and straggling village of palm-thatched huts to +accommodate their wives and concubines during their absence in the +wilds. As soon as my tent was up, and my goods were properly stored and +placed under the supervision of a trusted man, a food allowance was +measured out to the hungry porters of the caravan. That is to say, a +bale of cloth was unpacked, and each man received three ells (or +“hands,” as they were here called) of white American sheeting, which was +to purchase him sufficient food for three days. After the distribution +of cloth the men dispersed for the rest of the day to forage in the +Taveita market, and I was free to attend to my own affairs and to +receive my new acquaintances. Firstly, however, the tent was closed, and +I had a good and much-needed bath, for almost since leaving the coast +water had been so precious that we had feared to lavish even a teacupful +on the toilet. But here we had a glorious running river, crystal clear, +and cool; and were it not for the inconvenient publicity which a dip in +the stream itself would occasion at this moment, I should have strongly +preferred it to a cramped bath in the hot tent. Nevertheless, a wash of +any kind and a complete change of clothes was very refreshing, and when +once more my tent door was thrown open to the throng, and I appeared +before the elders of Taveita seated on my camp chair, I felt sure my +white face was several shades lighter than on my arrival. This little +colony of quiet agriculturists, known as Taveita, is unlike the +neighbouring states in being a republic, or commonwealth, administered +rather than ruled by an oligarchy of four or five important men known as +the “Wa-zēē,” or elders. There are really two entirely distinct races +inhabiting Taveita—the Wa-kwavi, a tribe of settled Masai who have +turned from lawless robbers into honest, thrifty tillers of the soil, +and the Wa-taveita proper, a people of Bantu stock, allied in origin to +the A-kamba farther north and the Wa-čaga of Kilima-njaro. The +Wa-taveita predominate over the Wa-kwavi in numbers, and the elders are +mostly of the former stock. These functionaries had come to greet me +with little gifts and offerings such as they deemed most acceptable to +me, and, of course, expected an equivalent present on my part. One man +had brought a baaing, reluctant sheep, and tied it to the tent-pegs. +Another thrust into my lap a couple of fowls, strongly fastened together +by the legs, but otherwise not disturbed in equanimity, for they pecked +inquiringly at the buttons of my jacket. A third member of the Taveitan +Legislative Council pointed to a basket of corn-cobs as his donation, +and so on. Each in return received about twice the value of his +free-will offering in cloth and beads, and, I am sorry to say, in +accordance with African custom, they at first affected to be +dissatisfied with the return-gifts, and tried to haggle for an increase, +but finding this “try on” of no avail, immediately resigned themselves +to the inevitable, and marched off very contentedly with what they could +get. The remainder of the day was utilized by the men in buying food, +while I availed myself of the unwonted rest to recruit my strength, and +so did nothing in the way of active exertion beyond skinning a few +birds. + +About half-past 7 a.m. on the morrow we resumed our journey towards +Kilima-njaro. I was going to establish myself at the Court of Mandara, +chief of Moši, a state on the southern flank of the mountain. Until my +return from East Africa so little was known of the politics of +Kilima-njaro, that it was popularly supposed there was but one paramount +ruler of the district, and he, Mandara, chief of Moši, who had sent +letters to and exchanged presents with Sir John Kirk, and had seen, +perhaps, each of the four or five Europeans who had approached +Kilima-njaro. The way to his country lay first west, then north-west of +Taveita, and the distance to be traversed was some twenty-seven miles. + +After leaving our camp we first had to cross the River Lumi, over which +a curious bridge was thrown. Some years ago the Wa-taveita were much +inconvenienced by repeated floods, which rendered their river (fed from +the snows of Kilima-njaro) dangerous or impossible to ford, and +consequently cut off one-half of the colony from communication with the +other. The idea of bridging this five-yard-wide rivulet was too +difficult for the native mind, so the elders of Taveita contracted with +a Swahili trader to do the job. The price was to be a bullock. The +trafficker in ivory and slaves was not long in his operations. Selecting +one of the finest and straightest trees growing on the summit of the +river bank, he set to work with his followers, and with repeated chops +severed its trunk near the base. The tree fell forward straight across +the river from bank to bank, needing but the lopping of its superfluous +crown of leafy branches to from as satisfactory a bridge as the natives +required. As, however, its trunk remained rounded like a cylinder, and +was polished and extremely slippery with the constant passage of naked +feet, it offered anything but a secure foothold, and as a fall from any +part of the bridge would be rather dangerous, I preferred fording the +stream on a man’s back to risking the transit of the tree-trunk, +although all my men, with heavy burdens on their heads, crossed it +without mishap. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 23.—The Strange Creeper. +] + +Leaving the river, we walked for about two miles through very +magnificent forest, where Raphia palms reached a great development; next +we emerged abruptly on an unattractive wilderness of low thorny shrubs +and coarse grass. The land rose gently before us towards the huge mass +of Kilima-njaro, which was at present screened with louring clouds. In +the middle distance, were broken chains of jagged hills, interspersed +with isolated hillocks and mounds of conical shape, suggesting the idea +that when the great discharge of eruptive matter from the two huge +volcanoes of Kibô and Kimawenzi was temporarily or permanently checked, +the sick earth broke out all over the irritated surface with minor +pustules and pimples through which the disturbing matter was discharged, +the present aspect of the mountain and its vicinity being the result of +the scars and hardened scabs of these now healed-up earth-boils. We +walked for some ten miles over an unattractive country devoid of water, +and little better than desert. The hills were sparsely overgrown with +sad, grey-looking trees, almost leafless or else sprinkled with scanty +foliage of an olive-green. In the rolling plains at their base there was +little to break the monotonous yellow of the withered grass. Now and +then was seen a _Bauhinia_ shrub or stunted tree, with its bifid leaves +that afforded as little shade as the poor foliage of the eucalyptus, or +a thorny mimosa with flattened crown and red trunk, like a conventional +tree from a child’s box of toys; or, lastly, a few inconspicuous +nameless shrubs, with leaves of a shiny grey colour, like those of most +plants living in semi-desert countries. Once or twice we crossed the dry +bed of a torrent and found therein a more varied but scarcely more +pleasing vegetation. Rampant euphorbias, with fleshy, snake-like, +coiling stems armed with horrid spikes, trailed themselves triumphantly +over unresisting shrubs; acacias, which from sheer viciousness had +almost done without leaves to bestow all their productive powers on the +development of terribly efficacious thorns, threw out their cruel +grappling-hooks over the path and ripped up our faces, hands, or +clothing as we passed. Other plants of the lily tribe (debased and +wicked members of a beautiful family) grew like swords stuck in the +ground point upwards, and woe betide any careless person who put his +hand on the apex of their rigid, blade-like leaves—their rapier-points +would pierce his palm as readily as a sword of steel. But as we had +crossed a ridge stretching out into the plain, and our path, from +sloping upwards, descended a little on the other side, this fantastic +vegetation, befitting the precincts of some horrid mediæval monster’s +lair, modified its repulsive character, and became intermixed with +shrubs and grass of vivid green, while to our joy we descried some half +a mile ahead a belt of dense purple-green foliage, which in these +African wildernesses always denotes the presence of water. In fact, a +few minutes’ walk took us from the dull white glare of the hazy noontide +in the open, shadeless waste into a cool, delicious bower of deep green +shade, where at first, so great was the contrast, we blinked our eyes +and could see no details. Then I made out a clear limpid stream slipping +along over small stones, or forming still, quiet, mirror-like pools +between grey walls of smooth, massive tree trunks, which resembled stone +in their colour and polish. Often the severity of these broad wooden +bulwarks would be tempered with rich masses of foliage depending from +the smaller boughs above, and breaking up with graceful and fanciful +detail the somewhat formal outlines of the vista. The tree trunks that +bordered the stream were many of them singularly broad in girth. In one +or two cases they were grappled with by parasitic figs that wound +themselves round their stout victim like vegetable boa-constrictors, or, +as in the example illustrated, like some huge, long-bodied lizard. In +the shade of this green tunnel, where the little river—which the Swahili +traders call the Mto wa Habari, or “River of News”—bored its way through +the forest belt, we cast down our burdens and prepared to rest and eat +our midday meal. Succeeding the white glare of the shadeless open +country this sweet and cool retreat beneath a dense over-arching canopy +of foliage was inexpressibly soothing after our weary walk from Taveita. +The men went off to the other side of the stream, and were lost to sight +in the woodland; I only knew of their presence by the occasional murmur +of voices coming from their camp, and by the blue curling smoke of their +cooking fires, which ascended in gentle puffs through the network of +leafy boughs. My portable table and camp-chair had been unfastened, and +the former was set up on a level patch of sward by the waterside, and +was quickly covered with a snowy cloth from the canteen, while my +servant further laid it with the enamelled iron plates and knife and +fork and napkin for my solitary meal. To pass the time and forget my +impatient hunger whilst the repast was being prepared, I sat down on my +camp-stool and made the rough sketch of the stream which is presented +here: but my artistic labours were gladly laid aside at the announcement +that lunch was ready, and I sat down with keen satisfaction to my +tempting table, which had been further brightened by a little bouquet of +wild flowers gathered and arranged by Virapan. Would you like to know +what I ate? If so, I will endeavour to describe this one meal, so that +you may better realize how I ordinarily fared in Africa while on the +road. There was a plate of fowl soup to begin with, nicely flavoured +with onions, thickened with a little maize-flour and rice. Two thin +slices of toast lay beside it, made from some loaves my cook baked while +we rested at Taveita. After the soup was finished came a little good +curry made from the soup meat, and flavoured with cocoanut milk (for we +had carried a sack of cocoanuts from the coast). Then, when the curry is +eaten, a fresh plate was brought me, and a dear old battered calabash +about half-full of delicious honey, which tastes like the smell of +mimosa blossoms; and after eating some of this spread on a slice of +Taveitan bread (which deserves its recipe in brackets: two pounds of +maize-flour, half a cup of palm wine, a quarter of an ostrich egg, a +pinch of salt, and a spoonful of butter), I wound, up my lunch with a +cup of fragrant tea, and sat over an old book, while my men packed up +the _impedimenta_ once more, and started again on the road towards Moši. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 24.—The River Habari. +] + +The afternoon was sultry, and we felt so meritorious in having +accomplished our ten miles before lunch, that there was a general +disposition to take things easily; besides which, our path led us +through much more pleasing country than in the morning. We crossed a +biggish stream (which rises near the summit of Kilima-njaro, and is +called the Kilema River), then a smaller one, and at last, near our +preordained camping-place for the night—a charming “almost-island” (this +term sounds more expressive than peninsula), nearly surrounded by the +little Mkuyuni River. You could hardly imagine a more romantically +beautiful spot than this in which I camped. It was only approachable at +one point—where a huge tree trunk spanned the tiny gulf between the bank +and the island, and formed a bridge over which to pass to and fro. It +was this fallen tree which had made our camping-place a peninsula, for +in lying across the stream its lower branches acted as a kind of dam by +stopping all the stones, earth, and refuse washed down by the rivulet, +and so forming in time a firm barrier that sent all the water careering +round the other side of the island. In the centre of this pretty +peninsula rose a gigantic sycamore fig-tree (which among the Swahili +traders gave its name to this stream—_Mkuyu_—a sycamore; _Mkuyuni_—the +place by the sycamore)—and under the vast canopy of its mighty branches +the whole caravan encamped, feeling tolerably protected from the weather +by the leafy thatch o’er head. + +In all my previous African experiences I had never known what it was to +be in real danger from the attacks of lions. The king of beasts had +hitherto exhibited a provoking shyness and a persistent dislike to +cultivate my acquaintance—so much so, that I often used to complain that +I gained nothing from my wish to know the lion at home and that I might +learn more about him in Regent’s Park than in the savagest wilds of +Africa. But ever since the troubled night which we spent at the Mkuyuni, +I ask no more for leonine visits, especially in the darkness of the +small hours, and will content myself with an occasional journey to the +Zoological Gardens, where I can see this grandest of cats in a safe and +comfortable cage. Soon after we had retired to rest on this occasion, +when the men had begun to snore round their fires, wrapped up in dusky +white cloths like so many mummies, and when the leader of the caravan +was curling himself snugly between the blankets, the most terrific roar +you ever heard startled us all into sudden wakefulness. Though the lion +that uttered it was probably forty or fifty yards distant, the sound of +his thunderous bellow seemed to come from our very midst. I sat up in +bed and looked uneasily around me, but nobody complained of being eaten, +so I lay down again, and even began to think this very interesting and +very African, full of local colour, and so on. But now on our right and +left, on either side of the river, a chorus of loud roaring began. The +night was as yet pitchy dark, for the moon would not rise till the early +morning. We could see nothing beyond the blaze of our cordon of fires. +However, feeling that it was despicably tame to lie still in bed and go +to sleep while my porters shivered with fear, I arose, took my gun, and +fired into the bushes where the roaring was loudest. This, the men +informed me, was the unwisest thing I could do; of course I killed +nothing, and the noise of the firearm, instead of aweing the lions into +silence, only seemed to exasperate them. I certainly never heard +anything like the noise they made. My men averred that we were +surrounded by ten beasts—I suppose they distinguished ten various +roarings; certainly, the next morning, when we examined the precincts of +our camp, the many footprints of different sizes which were marked in +the soft vegetable soil of the surrounding woodland and in the red soil +of the river bank, indicated unquestionably that a whole troop of lions +had been in our immediate vicinity during the night. I noticed a curious +fact connected with the unseen approach of these beasts. Whenever a lion +was nearing our camp, and before he attested his vicinity by a roar, we +were, when we had learned to read the warning, made aware of the fact by +the sudden nervous twittering of the small birds in the branches above. +It was a tremulous diapason of fear, most singularly impressive. On +several subsequent occasions the approach of large wild beasts has been +signified to me in the same manner. + +The morning that succeeded this disturbed night saw us taking the road +soon after sunrise, all in the best spirits at the approaching +termination of a long tramp. We walked on for about two hours through +low forest country, clad with scrubby trees rarely exceeding fifteen to +twenty feet in height—an undergrowth of large-leaved solanaceous plants, +which grew so regularly and on a soil so tidy and devoid of weeds or +grass, that I at first took the country to be cultivated, and imagined +these thriving herbs to be some kind of native tobacco. The wild flowers +(ground orchids, hibiscus, clematis, and a kind of sunflower) were very +beautiful and quite brilliant in their displays of colour. Within about +an hour’s journey from the confines of Moši the path divides into two +tracks, one going still due west and keeping to the plains, the other +turning round towards the southern flank of Kilima-njaro, and mounting +upwards. Here, at this junction, we encountered some rather disreputable +Wa-swahili, shabbily clothed (it is the wearing clothes, by-the-bye, +which enables one in this country to distinguish between the Wa-swahili, +or natives of the coast, and the people of the interior), and armed with +Snider guns. They were courtiers of Mandara’s, sent thoughtfully by that +chief to meet us, and see we did not take the wrong road. Their +greeting, however, was too familiar and impudent, to my taste, and I +began to have a lurking presentiment that these scampish parasites of +the chief of Moši might prove inimical to my mission; for, in the +interior here, white men are looked upon by the coast traders as spies +on the slave trade, and though outwardly fawned on and flattered from +fear, yet are secretly thwarted and hindered in every possible way, +especially as regards the native chiefs, whom the Wa-swahili are +desirous of alienating from enlightenment. However, keeping these +reflections to myself, I toiled along the ascending path, and after an +hour’s stiff pull, caught a glimpse of an enchanting land. Hitherto our +track had led through thick bush, with every view of the surrounding +country shut out. Now we had entered a clearing, near to cultivation, +and nothing impeded our view. Northwards the vast mass of the mountain +stretched upwards into the heavens, its twin peaks shrouded in heavy +cumulus clouds, and below the clouds, the billowy swell of hill upon +hill and ridge succeeding ridge was a deep sullen blue under the heavy +shadow of lowering cumuli. Then came a few lines of dark purple-green +forest, still in shade, and, in the middle distance, where the sunlight +broke upon the scene, the gentle, rounded hills gleamed out against the +sombre background with their groves of emerald-green bananas marking the +commencement of the cultivated zone. Nearer to us succeeded deep +ravines, with thread-like cascades, clumps of tidy forest—just a few +tall trees left growing out of religious veneration—smooth, sunny downs, +whereon flocks of goats were grazing, patches of freshly-tilled soil, +cultivated fields, hedge-lined lanes, and lastly, the red denuded hill, +the No-man’s Land, the Pisgah, on which we were standing to gaze on this +Promised Land, towards which for thirteen days we had been toiling +through the wilderness. There was, however, no preordained restriction +to my entering it, nor was my lieutenant qualified to play the part of +Joshua, so I, who had been pausing here to let all my followers come up +with me and regain their breath, once more took up my staff and marched +into Mandara’s country. A ravine and a small stream separated us from +the collection of beehive huts and gardens which formed his capital, and +before crossing I stopped and gave the order for a salute of twenty-one +guns to be fired (Mandara had heard from the Arab traders that such was +the number of guns accorded to independent Royalty, and insisted on it). +This accomplished I climbed the steep red path before me, and arrived at +a kind of open green shaded by fine spreading trees. Here a lot of men +were squatted with their shining broad-bladed spears stuck upright into +the ground. They took but little notice of me, and I afterwards found +that Mandara’s soldiers think it beneath their dignity to be surprised +at anything. I nevertheless scanned them with considerable interest. +Many were in their war-paint and were dressed to imitate the dreaded +warriors of the Masai. On their heads would be either a huge circlet of +ostrich feathers, or an imposing head-dress made from the black and +white mane of the Colobus monkey. The same animal’s skin, with its long +silky hair, of a most startling contrast in colour, was roughly +fashioned into a covering for the shoulders, arranged so that a short +lappet hung over the breasts, and the hinder part of the skin covered +the back, while the long white tail of the monkey was disposed in such a +manner as to suggest its being actually a caudal appendage of the +wearer. Other soldiers wore, in place of Colobus skins, huge thick capes +round the neck and shoulders, resembling the fur capes of our coachmen. +These were generally made of cock’s feathers (black), or of the short, +dark feathers of the ostrich. Round the ankles were short “raffs” of +goat-skin, and often a “ring” of goat-skin—that is to say, a tag of hide +with a slit through it—was thrust on to the finger. The lobes of the +ears were distended with plugs of wood or hollow wooden rings, or hung +with an infinitude of very fine steel chains (a local manufacture). +Various other ornaments or charms decorated the body, but in all cases +adornments and coverings were so disposed as to strictly avoid any +purpose of what we should call decency, these people of Kilima-njaro, +like those of Taveita, showing no idea of employing clothes for +concealment. + +I had time to pause and make these observations, for we had come to a +halt. After passing the groups of soldiers whose attire, or the want of +it, has just been described, we had gone through a hedge of dwarf +dracænas and scarlet-flowered aloes, and were arrived on another open +space at the back of Mandara’s compound. Hereupon we were directed to +pitch our camp. The tent was soon up, and the loads were carefully piled +in front of it, packed as compactly as possible, so as not to excite too +much cupidity by a rash display of wealth. When this was finished, a +messenger from Mandara arrived leading an unwilling goat. This animal +was killed in my presence, skinned and cut up, and a small piece of the +hide was made into a ring for my finger, which I was instructed to wear +immediately as a sign of friendly peace, a similar bit being cut off and +sent to Mandara for the same purpose.[10] The flesh of the goat was then +handed over to my cook, to prepare for my next meal, and, as a matter of +fact, it turned out delicious eating, for the slain animal was a plump +young gelding, specially fattened for food. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 25.—Trees with Honey-boxes. +] + +Being informed that Mandara would not pay me a visit until the +afternoon, preferring that his guest should eat and refresh himself +after his long journey, I had a little leisure to look about me, as +far as the laughing, staring crowds of Čaga people who thronged the +encampment would allow. We were here about 3500 feet in altitude, +relatively at the foot of the mountain, but yet with splendid views +over the plains, which lay fifteen hundred feet below. All around were +signs of agriculture of a high order, and though the people were +naked, one could see they were anything but savages. There was nowhere +a congeries of houses that could be called a town, but the whole +country, where it was cultivated, was equally inhabited. Here and +there the yellow thatch of a beehive hut peeped out from the green +fronds of the banana groves. The fields were intersected with numerous +runnels of water, diverted at different levels from the parent streams +in the ravines above. The air was musical with the murmur of trickling +rivulets and tinkling bells, for the flocks and herds were now being +driven in from the pastures to the natives’ compounds, to be shut up +from the afternoon heat. Wherever the ground was not in cultivation it +was covered with brilliantly-coloured wild flowers—balsams, +hibiscuses, dissotises, green and white ground orchids, scarlet aloes, +and numberless species whose names I knew not, and from all these the +bees were taking toll. The mild-eyed kine driven from the pastures +suggested supplies of milk; the throng of bees about the blossoms +implied that honey was also to be had. On the branches of all the big +trees hereabouts were hung oblong cases—boxes—made of bark, in which +these half-domesticated bees constructed their hives and stored their +honey. These “honey-boxes,” called by the natives “Mizinga,” which +word is also applied to cannons on the coast, are familiar objects in +East Africa, and may generally be met with in the vicinity of +villages. + + + + + CHAPTER V. + ARRIVAL AT MANDARA’S COURT. + + +Before describing my first interview with Mandara, the chief of Moši, it +may be well to say a few explanatory words about his actual position and +previous career. + +By Sir John Kirk’s advice I directed my steps to his kingdom and capital +in the first instance, for we both imagined that I had only to +conciliate this personage in order to be able to range free and +undisturbed over the whole of Kilima-njaro. + +It was, however, a great mistake—though one I was a long time finding +out—because Mandara ruled over a very small tract of land, and only up +to 6000 feet altitude, and being at constant war with his neighbours, +and his little kingdom in a continual state of blockade, his protection +as far as it influenced a peaceful residence on the upper slopes of the +mountain was worse than useless. Had it not been that the time spent +perforce in Mandara’s country was of little use for natural history +purposes—for I could not forget that I had come out principally to study +the alpine district near the snow-line, and not the rich but more +typically African fauna and flora at lower levels—I should little regret +the months I passed in Moši, for I regard Mandara as one of the most +remarkable Africans I have ever met. He is a man whose portrait should +be placed with certain others of his contemporaries, Rumanika, Mtesa, +the Kasongo, whose lineaments stand out sharply amid the obscurity of +Savage Africa, and whose names, so associated with the pioneers of +African exploration, will certainly not fall into oblivion. + +As far as we can trust to his own traditions as to his ancestry, it +would appear that his grandfather was a younger brother of the ruling +chief of Mpoko, or Mpokomo, a state lying to the west of Moši. He seems +to have been a great warrior, and protected his few subjects so +zealously against the raids of the Masai (who at that time menaced the +very existence of the Čaga mountaineers), that he formed them in time +into a prosperous and thriving community. The origin or etymology of the +name Moši (pronounced in English “Moshy”) is not very clear. In the +language of Taveita it means “smoke,” which, from the fact that at all +times puffs of white smoke arising from the constant burning of weeds +are to be observed, when the land is seen from the plains below, is a +not improbable derivation; still it may be more likely drawn from some +term in Ki-čaga, the language of the country. As it is sometimes +pronounced Muši or Muži, I thought it might have been akin to the common +Bantu word “muǰi,” a _town_ or _settlement_; but as that term becomes +“muri” in Ki-čaga, I am still at a loss. However this may be, Moši is +the well-known name on Kilima-njaro of the little state founded, as +tradition goes, by Mandara’s grandfather. This hero is supposed to have +fallen in battle with the Masai, and his second—some say his third—son +inherited the power. He strengthened his position by marriage, and +espoused several princesses of the reigning families in the vicinity of +his kingdom. From one of these was born Mandara, or as he appears first +to have been called, Makindara. The explanation of his name, like that +of his state, is not so clear in meaning as are most specimens of +African nomenclature. His own subjects pronounce it “Maṅdara” +(Mangdara), and the other inhabitants of the mountain “Makiṅdara.” I +have sometimes fancied it might be a contraction and corruption of +Maṅge-ndara = Maṅdara, viz. the Chief Ndara. + +Mandara’s mother seems to have been a very shrewd and clever woman, and +under her long regency the state of Moši flourished. Apparently in those +happy days peace prevailed among all the sections of the Čaga people +inhabiting Kilima-njaro. Or at least there were no internecine wars, and +the only conflicts were occasional skirmishes with the Masai, whenever +those rovers tried to extend their cattle-raids to the mountain +pastures. But then came the cursed slave-traders—the Swahili Arabs, or +Arabized Mohammedan half-breeds—from the Zanzibar coast. Finding the +united inhabitants of Čaga[11] too strong to submit to forcible +slave-raiding or kidnapping, they tried to effect their purpose by +introducing discord into the local politics. Selecting some particular +chief—especially a young, ambitious man like Mandara, when he commenced +to reign—they gave him rich presents, and filled him with flattering +speeches, and persuaded him that if he took advantage of the unprepared +state of some of his neighbours, and suddenly marched an army into their +territory, he might not only reign as paramount chief over Čaga, but +would also make a nice fortune out of the sale of slaves. Mandara was +not loth to play the _rôle_ of conqueror. He had made friends with the +Masai and even obtained their assistance, and he therefore proceeded, +under the instigations of the Arabs, to harry, burn, kill, and enslave +his peaceful neighbours and countrymen of many little Čaga states. For +some time he carried all before him, and the Kilima-njaro market was a +famous one for the slave-traders of Mombasa. Mandara, and other chiefs +whom in turn they induced to play the same policy, supplied them with +slaves at about the cost of two dollars each, and though quite fifty per +cent. of them died before reaching the coast—for these poor mountaineers +cannot stand the climate of the plains, and perish of fever and +nostalgia—still the remainder being remarkable for their skill in +agriculture, fetched a high price among the wealthy Mohammedan +landowners of Zanzibar. At length a reaction took place. The outraged +Wa-čaga formed a league (which is still in force) against Mandara in +defence of their hearths and homes, and in spite of his valorous army +and his skilful defence, the fortune of war so far turned against him, +that he was compelled to fly from his country as an exile. When this +reverse in his fortunes took place is not very clear, and Mandara +himself is reserved on the subject; but it would seem to have been some +ten years ago. The causes which led to his reinstatement are also left +to conjecture; but I fancy that his enemies, content with their revenge, +retired from his country, and that Mandara, with the help of his +friends, the agricultural Masai of Aruša, was enabled to return to Moši. +Since then his martial ardour has somewhat cooled, and although he still +devotes much time and attention to the drill of his army (which consists +perhaps of 1000 men, the pick of Moši’s manhood), it is more for +purposes of defence. He occupies at present somewhat the position, in +Kilima-njaro politics, of a Napoleon who has returned from Elba, but +prudently avoids a Waterloo. + +Though this remarkable savage never, in his most successful days, ruled +over a larger territory than the postal area of London, yet the fame of +his intelligence, his kingly manners, and his bravery extended far and +wide in Central Africa, borne by the Swahili traders, who journeyed in +all directions between the Victoria Nyanza and the Indian Ocean. +Slave-traders and slave-kidnappers though these men are, their influence +over Africa has had a certain civilizing tendency. + +These strange Arab mongrels, who have become almost an independent race, +merit the designation of Africa’s land-carriers, They journey for +purposes of trade over nearly all the district which lies between the +Victoria Nile, Abyssinia, the great lakes, the Upper Congo, and the +Zambesi. After visiting such a chief as Mandara they may find themselves +at the court of Mtesa, the late chief of the Uganda, and they will carry +the fame of one king to another. Mandara alleges that he held +communication (I suppose this consisted in the transmission of Arabic +compliments) with Mtesa of Uganda, and with Mirambo of Unyamwesi, by +means of such far-travelling traders as Jumba Kimemeta, in whose company +Mr. Thomson crossed Masai-land. This is quite possible; at any rate +through the Swahili merchants Mandara first heard of her Majesty the +Queen, of Sir John Kirk (the “Baloza”), and of Sayyid Barghash of +Zanzibar. The same itinerant pedlars informed this Central African +savage, who has never been thirty miles from his birthplace, nor visited +a civilized settlement, nor seen the ocean, or a ship, of the leading +factors in Oriental politics, how the Waingrezi (English) possessed +India; how the Wa-fransa (French) had tried to conquer Madagascar with +their “manowari” (men-of-war); and how the Wa-dachi (Deutsche = Germans) +were making treaties with the chiefs of Usagara. It is no doubt largely +through Swahili merchants that the mind of Mandara has been prepared, +since my departure, for the acceptance of the suzerainty of Sayyid +Barghash of Zanzibar. He was shrewd enough to know that before the +advent of Europeans he could not stand alone, and he greatly dreaded the +coming of French or Germans. His suspicions and fears of these two +leading European nations were positively ridiculous, considering that +they both ignored his existence, and had never at any time evinced the +slightest wish to annex Kilima-njaro. All that he knew of them was of +course derived from the exaggerated accounts of the Wa-swahili, and it +is a curious thing that these people of the Zanzibar coast should so +detest the French and Germans. Some of the traders, I know, confuse the +Belgians with the French, and imagine it is the former nation that has +(happily) abstracted the Upper Congo from the slave-and-ivory-hunting +operations of the Zanzibaris. But what can these people have known of +Germany and the Germans hitherto to bear so marked a grudge against the +children of the Fatherland? Curiously enough the European power most +liked and respected by the Zanzibar traders is England, though for half +a century we have tried our hardest to ruin the slave-trade, on which +the prosperity of the Zangian Arabs has been so largely based. Yet every +bombardment or capture of slave-daus only seems to add to our prestige, +and the fame of the mighty English “manowari,” and the quiet, resolute +man who directs their operations, is yearly carried farther and farther +into Central Africa by the very men who have suffered most by our +anti-slavery policy. It is really astonishing to find that there are +villages on Kilima-njaro where the naked and savage inhabitants know of +no other fact beyond their physical horizon, except that towards the +rising sun there is a vast sheet of water, on which mighty iron canoes +deal indiscriminate death to the enemies of a great white man, sometimes +called the “Baloza,”[12] who is the sultan of the coast. + +Pursuant to these ideas Mandara had sent presents and greetings to Sir +John Kirk, seeking his friendship, and during my stay on the mountain, +Mandara applied to me for a Union Jack to fly over his mud and wattle +citadel, as a sign that he was under the protection of my country. As I +feared this emblem of just rule might be made to cover a multitude of +sins committed in its name, and that the slave-raids of this African +prince might be justified by the British ensign which his bandits would +flaunt before them, I transmitted this request to the consideration of +Sir John Kirk. Various complications prevented its concession, and +eventually, frightened at the rumoured coming of the Germans, Mandara +accepted the suzerainty of the Sultan of Zanzibar. + +Mandara has seen all the Europeans who have ever visited Kilima-njaro. +Rebmann, the missionary who first told us snow-mountains existed in +Africa, passed through his country, when Mandara was, according to his +own account, about three years old. Von der Decken—still remembered as +the “Baroni”—came thither when the chief of Moši was a youth and under +the tutelage of his mother. Mandara received the missionary New on his +first journey to the mountain, and enabled him to make his two partial +ascents, in one of which he just reached the snow-line. + +On his second visit to Kilima-njaro in 1873, Mr. New was robbed of all +his valuables by Mandara, and retired broken-hearted to the coast. Mr. +Joseph Thomson fell into his clutches in 1883, on his journey to +Masai-land, and though he was forced to make a much more generous +present than he at first intended, yet he frequently admits that Mandara +afterwards treated him and his caravan with really royal hospitality. +Before I arrived in his country he had made friends with Sir John Kirk, +and I took with me important letters from our Consul-General at +Zanzibar, officially recommending me to Mandara’s good offices, and +though in after-times you will see that I had very strained relations +with our variable friend, yet such was the respect he bore for the +wide-stretching English power, that, though he had me utterly +defenceless in his clutches, without the strength to resist or the means +to run away, and in spite of eager covetousness of my valuable property, +he never robbed me of a pennyworth _by force_, nor ever allowed his +people to do so. + +Before coming to Kilima-njaro, I had read everything that was written +about Mandara, and my curiosity as to his appearance, and my anxiety as +to the impression I should create in his imagination, were excited to +the utmost. My vagrant habits have sometimes led to my being presented +to personages that the world holds distinguished, but in no case did I +ever anticipate an introduction to a temporal or spiritual magnate with +more anxiety than my first interview with the Sultan of Moši. I had +formed an exaggerated estimate of his power for good and evil, and +fancied that the fate of my expedition lay in his sable hands. Nor was I +alone in this impression, for the men of my caravan held Mandara in +excessive awe and dread, and the rabble of Rabai, who were already +grovelling before him, would have cut my throat cheerfully if that had +been pleasing to the great chieftain, in whose power they were. To do +Mandara honour—for I was told by my men that he was very sensitive as to +appearances, and measured a man by his cloth—I had donned a white shirt +with a collar in which some little starch remained, a smart coat, and +patent leather boots, and this attire, although perhaps becoming, was +uncomfortable at the close of a long, hot march, when I wished to unbend +in easy costume. I therefore hoped that the ordeal might soon be over. +Presently, whilst I was fidgeting about inside my tent, getting rather +tired of the intense curiosity I aroused among the simple country-folk, +who thronged the precincts of my camp and were not ashamed, like the +soldiers, to express their awe and surprise, I heard a distant shouting, +while loud cries and complaints arose nearer and nearer at hand, and +then were seen the civilian subjects of Mandara fleeing in all +directions, and being vigorously chased from the scene by a number of +lithe young men perfectly nude, and armed with long and supple wands. +These were the police of Moši, and their object was to disperse the +vulgar herd from the precincts of royalty, their sovereign being then on +his way to pay a visit to the white stranger. Kiongwe soon entered my +tent, and said in an agitated whisper, “Mandara has come, and is waiting +to greet you.” I left my tent in as composed a manner as possible, and +sought Mandara with my eyes. He was not difficult to distinguish from +his body-guard. With a natural instinctive feeling for effect he had +grouped his soldiers in a semicircle round him, and placed himself +somewhat in front, with a crescent of fierce-looking warriors behind, +each man holding his shining spear-blade erect and glistening, thereby +edging the dark background with a bright shimmering band of steel. The +first impression Mandara produced on me was that of a grand old woman! +The full, rounded, beardless face, the somewhat graceful column-like +neck, and full bosom, with above all the head-dress—a red handkerchief, +worn as women wear it in Zanzibar—and the sweeping folds of the long +faded cloth wound loosely round his body, gave one the impression of a +superb virago rather than of an African chief in the prime of life. +Mandara, like a towering sibyl of five feet ten inches, planted his +spear in the ground with an emphasis that long made the blade quiver, +gave me one very sharp look out of his only serviceable eye (the sight +of the other is destroyed), and then for the moment took no direct +notice of my presence, but commenced a long and animated chat with his +head policemen, listening apparently with much amusement to their +account of the summary way in which the populace had recently been +dispersed, and occasionally laughing in a right royal manner, showing, +as he did so, a splendid set of teeth. + +At last I was nettled by this apparent disregard—it is always dangerous +to be too meek and unassuming with African chiefs—so I asked my head-man +in an audible tone which of the people present was Mandara, affecting to +search for him among the crowd. There was a silence. Then Kiongwe, in +the most cringing tone and manner, approached the chief with many a +deprecating salaam, affected to kiss his hand, and then begged to inform +him that his master, the white man from Zanzibar, the “Consul’s child,” +was here, and desired an interview. Mandara’s gaze now rested on me with +a benign and singularly winning smile, which effaced the preceding +impression that his somewhat heedless manner had produced. I advanced a +few steps and said, in rather a hesitating voice, in the middle of a +profound silence, “Sultan, the Baloza (Sir John Kirk) sends you many +greetings, and hopes you are well.” I had spoken in Swahili, and he +replied fluently in the same language, and in a voice pleasantly +modulated and different from the hoarse speech of his subjects, “Child +of the Baloza, I am pleased to see you. I like your face.” Then, after a +short pause, in which his dignity relaxed, he advanced towards me, took +my hand, and said, almost in a coaxing manner, “Tuzumgumze! Let us +chat.” At this signal all his followers and mine, who had hitherto stood +“at attention,” relaxed their attitudes with one accord. No one spoke, +but they all sat down, making as they did so that unanimous shuffling +which you hear in church when people arise from their knees and sit down +to arrange themselves for the sermon; and this analogy was further +carried out by the chorus of throat-clearings and hurried coughs which +rapidly went the round of my circle of listeners, who were desirous of +removing all physical obstacles which should prevent them from +thoroughly hearing and understanding the words of wit and wisdom about +to fall from our lips. The chief began the interrogatory. “What pretty +boots you have got on!” he said. To which I could think of nothing more +original to reply than, “Oh, do you think so?” “Yes, they are very +fine—‘vizuri sana;’ have you got a pair that would fit me?” This was a +question that required rather a diplomatic answer. I had but one pair of +patent leather shoes, and I judged from what I saw of Mandara’s foot +that they would be quite inadequately sized, so I replied, vaguely, “I +will look and see.” But the chief’s attention had already wandered to +other subjects. He pressed me with the most varied questions, sometimes +too impatient to wait for an answer. “What is the braid on your coat +made of?” “Silver.” “Is silver the same as that white stuff on the top +of Kilima-njaro?” “And have you come all this way from Ulaya (Europe) to +gather the glittering thing that makes Kibô shine in the sun?” “Why is +your sultan called Queeny?” “The Arabs tell me Queeny is a woman; is +that true?” “Did Queeny send you here?” “No; the Waalimu (wise men) of +England have sent me, so that I might see everything there was to be +seen on Kilima-njaro, and come home and tell them all about it.” “What +did they do that for?” “Because they love knowledge.” Mandara pondered a +moment, and then he glanced up and said quickly, “Look! you can write, +can’t you? All the Wa-zungu (white men) can. Very well. See everything +hereabouts—I will show you—and then write it all to the Waalimu of +Ulaya. Your men and mine shall take the letter to the coast, but you +shall stop with me, always—eh? Always. I like you; and besides, I want a +white man to teach me how to write, and to show my Ma-fundi (artificers) +how to make cannon, and instruct my soldiers to fight like the soldiers +of Sayyid Barghash of Zanzibar. You know Bwana Mafiu (General +Matthews[13])? Well, I want you to be my Bwana Mafiu.” I made no reply +to these embarrassing propositions, thinking it better to preserve a +discreet silence and gain my ends patiently. Then Mandara continued, in +a plaintive voice, “Bwana Tomsen (Mr. Joseph Thomson) came here; I liked +him; he was generous, and he spoke well of my country; but he would not +stop. ‘Baroni’ (Baron Von der Decken), and Bwana New (the missionary) +have both been here, but they came and went. Now,” he added, laughing +grimly, “the Baloza has sent you here to see me; well, I don’t want you +ever to go. Do you hear? (Usikia?) Never! Now, come along to my house +and show me the presents you have brought.” So the meeting was +adjourned. Mandara gathered up his skirts, not ungracefully, and stalked +off to his compound, whilst I hastily unpacked and arranged the gifts I +had brought him, which were as follows: A handsome embroidered “joho” or +Arab coat; a “kanzu” (long shirt-like garment); a “kilemba” (stuff for a +turban); several “vikoi” or waistbands, and a scarlet fez; a +musical-box, many coloured pictures, looking-glasses, mouse-traps, +knives, bells, two small barrels of gunpowder, boxes of caps, and a bar +of lead. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 26.—Mandara’s Left Ear. +] + +Accompanied by Kiongwe, Cephas, and others, I went to his +reception-shed. Here he was surrounded by the Swahili courtiers, and +seemed in a good humour, apparently appreciating the presents I had +brought. Whilst he was examining them, occasionally slapping his thigh +with a delighted gesture, or making a curious whistling sound with his +pursed-up lips, I had leisure to examine his appearance thoroughly. Of +fine height, as I have already observed, probably five feet ten or +eleven inches, his frame was splendidly modelled, though the rounded +form of his contour indicated a slight tendency to fleshiness. His face +was a peculiar one, rather broad across the cheek-bones, with fine +arched brows, good forehead, a slightly hooked nose, wide, thin-lipped +mouth, and firm, rounded, resolute chin. One eye, as has been already +remarked, was blind, and had a vacant glassy stare, but the other was +bright as an eagle’s, and lay glittering under an eagle’s brow. The +general aspect of his face, especially the hooked nose and high +cheek-bones, reminded me of the traditional likeness of the +North-American Red Indian Chief. Mandara’s ears, however, were all his +own. The fashion of his country and people he had certainly carried to +excess. The lobe of both ears had been pierced, and the distended +aperture of one had become so enlarged that a great wooden ring had been +forced into the centre. I can best explain it by a drawing, as words are +quite inadequate. Fortunately, although Mandara would never allow me to +take his portrait, I was once able surreptiously to sketch his left ear. +The lobe of the other ear was hung with a few small steel chains, and +was less remarkable. He had a row of splendid teeth, though there was a +slight, probably artificial, space in the centre of the upper incisors. +Through this aperture he would often squirt his saliva or his mouthful +of banana-beer whenever he grew animated. The colour of his skin was a +bluish brown, if you can realize such a combination—I mean a glossy +umber with a bloom on it—and there was an entire absence of hair on his +face, and the wool of his head was shaved close. As he says he can +remember Rebmann’s visit to Kilima-njaro (which took place in 1848), and +was about three or four years old at the time, his approximate age at +the present time would be about forty years. When I saw him he looked +somewhat older, but this is evidently due to premature age creeping over +him after a life of unrestrained passions. Mandara had a singularly +winning smile, utterly unlike the African grin. While his somewhat +curling, cruel lips would relax and display the glistening teeth, his +brows would be puckered in a half puzzled, half petulant manner, and at +the same time his one, round, living eye, into which all his strong +feeling was concentrated, gleamed and glanced with roguish merriment. As +he sat and played with his presents, like a great child, impatiently +wanting the Swahilis to explain everything in a breath, this smile would +constantly pass over his face, and lent it each time a very pleasing, +kindly look. He was evidently in a thoroughly good temper on the day of +my arrival. He listened attentively to the reading of Sir John Kirk’s +letter, examined the seals of the Consulate, asked numberless questions, +and chattered to me as freely as though we were old companions. All +questions about building, settling, choosing a site in his country, he +deferred to a lesser “palaver,” to be arranged by his attendants. Indeed +I noticed, that whenever Mandara wished to drive a hard bargain, and +this desire never deserted him even in his most gushing outbursts of +friendliness, he negotiated it through intermediaries, and never treated +directly with me on matters of business, having a royal dislike to +saying disagreeable things. Accordingly, on this occasion, when he had +exhausted his surprise and delight at the coloured pictures, when he had +ceased to turn the handle of the musical-box, and had rung all the bells +till their hammers were unhung, and, sure sign of an exhausted brain, +had begun to yawn, I craved permission to withdraw, which was gracefully +accorded, and I retired to my tent, followed by two Wa-čaga leading fat +sheep and carrying bananas as the Sultan’s contribution to my dinner. + +Early the next morning I rose and dressed, and was some time performing +an unusually protracted toilet, for I had the rare opportunity of being +able to dress at my ease without pulling down the tent and hurrying off +the men with their loads. On raising the canvas flap, and going out into +the fresh morning sunlight, I was somewhat surprised to see Mandara with +a circle of soldiers round him inspecting my goods, and carrying on an +active conversation with the Zanzibaris. I saluted him gravely, but he +returned the greeting, as I thought, somewhat coldly. However, he came +and sat down in my deck-chair, and then cast his dangerous gaze around +my tent and its furniture. Singling out my dressing-bag he begged to +examine it, and I could not refuse; so he passed all its contents +through his hands, uttering constantly his curious whistling +exclamation, “Tu, tu, tu!” of admiring astonishment. He asked for +nothing but an old toothbrush, and though I proffered a new one in +exchange, he stuck to his first choice, and resolutely carried it off. +After he had left me his counsellors arrived, and the rest of the +morning was taken up in bargaining about the amount of goods to be paid +for a building-site and permanent settlement in Moši. I say “permanent +settlement” because Mandara declared at the time that this first payment +was to be the last, and that by coming to terms with his delegates I +purchased the land outright and for ever, retaining the power to sell or +otherwise dispose of it to any one else. This first agreement he never +repudiated, although we afterwards squabbled about the extent of my +plantations. The price for the land was fixed at 210 yards of American +sheeting, three dozen handkerchiefs, and about thirty pounds of red +beads, all of which were immediately paid, and we were informed that on +the morrow we might quit Mandara’s presence, and fix on any unoccupied +site that pleased us. These preliminaries concluded, I began to enjoy a +little well-earned repose, and settled down to sketch some of the +scenery, which was lovely enough to move even exclamations of admiration +from my stolid Zanzibaris. Above me, to the north, rose majestically the +snowy dome of Kibô,[14] untouched by mist, and clearly cut against the +smalt-blue sky. The middle distance was hidden, and the trees of the +foreground seemed to touch the snow with their waving tops. Below me, on +the other side, lay stretched a vast plain, marked, as on a map, with +rivers, mountains, and forests, and stretching away into hazy space, +where it mingled with the low-lying strata of cloud. We were only 3,500 +feet above the sea at Mandara’s, and relatively at the very foot of the +mountain; but the view on all sides, above and below, was unusually +magnificent. I was interrupted in my sketching by a messenger from the +chief. I could not at first understand the import of his message, as he +spoke in Ki-čaga, but with the aid of an interpreter I ascertained he +bore a request that I would go and visit one of Mandara’s wives who was +sick. Hearing the cause of her indisposition was a virulent ulcer, I +took with me the necessary ointments, and followed the messenger alone, +being conducted to a quiet little square inside a palisade, where, in +three beehive huts, dwelt the three principal wives of Mandara. I was +introduced to the ailing lady, who scarcely glanced at me, merely +sticking out a leg, on which festered a hideous sore. She had been +fanning it to keep away the flies before my arrival, but now quietly +surrendered it to me, imagining, poor simple thing, that I should +immediately cure it. I explained to her, however, that recovery would be +slow and gradual. Then laving the ulcer in cold spring-water, which was +brought to me in a broken gourd, I applied to it the kind of ointment +recommended in my medicine-book, and, bandaging up her leg, added much +good advice, and left. I suppose my simple skill had made a due +impression, for I was hardly back in camp and sketching once more when +the messenger arrived again, informing me there were more of Mandara’s +wives needing my assistance, and insisting on my starting to see them +without delay. Feeling annoyed at these constant demands on my time and +medicine-chest, I nevertheless complied, in order to keep on good terms +with the chief, but this time I resolved to use a coarser and scarcely +less effectual remedy for open sores—paraffin—of which I had an ample +store. So, with a small tin of this mineral oil, more lint, and more +linen bandaging, I again followed the messenger, and this time was taken +to a different quarter, where I entered a large, low-pitched, round +building, with a peaked roof—in fact a big beehive hut. The interior +being only lighted by the low doorway, it was at first impossible to +distinguish anything in the gloom, especially as a curious odorous +steam, and the smoke of a wood fire mingled and rendered the obscurity +inside denser. At length, however, I could make out that the building +was divided into a certain number of stalls, separated in the centre by +a broad lane. On one side were milch cows, some four or five, each with +a calf, and each in her separate stall; on the other were about the same +number of women, one or two with children. They evinced little surprise +or amusement at seeing me, and all but the sick one went on with the +food-preparing avocations they were already engaged in. I dressed the +woman’s ulcer with paraffin, left her some oil for a further +application, and withdrew, half-stifled with the ammoniacal odours of +this stable-harem. Once more back in camp I had many further calls here +and there to visit patients and treat the most varied disorders, from a +broken arm to insanity and blindness. In all cases it was hoped that I +should effect immediate cures, and had I commenced a series of miracles, +no surprise would have been elicited, so great was the implicit faith in +a white man’s “healing-magic.” But now, somewhat nettled at the calm way +in which I was ordered about, I intimated that all who wished for +medicine or medical advice must come for it in person, and wait my +pleasure to be attended to. In no wise rebuffed, the subjects of Mandara +thronged the precincts of my tent, and would have overrun everything and +sullied all the clean appurtenances of my little habitation, had I not +formed a stout barrier of bales and boxes, and set a strong guard to +keep order among the rabble. Then one by one I saw the sick, the maimed, +the hopelessly diseased, and, in a few hours, had made more saddening +acquaintance with the ills that flesh is heir to—even in a pristine, +savage state—than had been afforded to me under any previous +circumstances of my wandering career. The whole of that evening I +patiently inquired into each complaint, and, to the best of my poor +ability, administered medical relief. + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + MY FIRST SETTLEMENT ON KILIMA-NJARO. + + +Very early in the morning of the succeeding day—the second after our +arrival in Moši—I began to prepare for the last stage of my journey, the +search for a suitable site on which to establish my principal and +central collecting-station. Various considerations must influence me in +my selection. Firstly, it must not be too low down on the mountain, so +as to be inconveniently far from my collecting-grounds; secondly, it +must not be too high up or my men would suffer unduly from cold, and we +should induce no natives to bring their food supplies for sale. Again, I +did not wish to build too near Mandara’s court in case that monarch +should honour us with an inconvenient amount of his society, and always +have me at his beck and call; on the other hand, if I journeyed too far +into the wilderness I lost the protection Mandara was able to accord me +and would, consequently, nullify the object of my settlement in Moši, +which was to be enabled to pursue my avocations quietly and economically +by living with a very few followers under the ægis of a powerful prince. + +I, therefore, after long consultation of the imperfect map, decided that +a certain prominent spur of the mountain in the north-east of Mandara’s +country (overlooking the bed of a rivulet) would best answer my purpose +for a secure and pleasant settlement. After experience showed me that +this almost accidental choice would have been a strangely fortunate one, +and had I made a permanent residence in Mandara’s country, I should have +eventually built there. But on my indicating this selection to the chief +on my arrival, I could see that it met with his secret disapproval. He +really feared that in establishing myself on this distant spot I should +be too independent of his caprices. Yet he did not countermand it, but +merely nodded and said enigmatically, “We shall see—kešo, kešo” (_kešo_! +fatal word = ‘to-morrow’). However, I was determined to show him that I +intended to have my own way. Accordingly, I prepared actively for +departure on the morrow. I thought it ominous that no guides or message +came from Mandara’s court, but I, nevertheless, affected not to notice +this, and gave the order cheerfully to shoulder loads and march. Only +thirty men—the Zanzibaris—responded. The Rabai porters sat sullen and +immovable, and raised not a finger to their loads. I asked them if they +had understood me. “Perfectly,” they said, “but Mandara had given them +orders not to move.” “But,” I exclaimed, “_I_ am your master, _I_ pay +you, and I command you to take up your loads and follow me to the last +stage of the journey.” “What do we care for your commands?” they +replied. “Why Mandara could kill us all in a moment, and who could +resist him? And you—why you daren’t even beat us, because you know we +should tell the missionaries.” This was indeed bitterness for me, +especially the feeling that I was impotent to harm these wretches. +Unfortunately, they had all received the greater part of their wages in +advance, and had carefully stored up their dollars before quitting the +coast, so that the threat of depriving them of the small remainder of +their pay, if they failed to complete the contract, had little effect. +Mandara, it appears, had tried to cajole and frighten the Zanzibaris +into joining the strike, but these true-hearted Mussulmen had informed +him that they had but one master and that the white man, and him only +would they obey—an answer for which Mandara ever afterwards bore them a +grudge. I therefore in my difficulty turned to them for counsel. +Kiongwe, the head-man, whose experience under Stanley had made him a +reliable adviser, proposed a daring solution of the quandary, namely, +that he should proceed forthwith to Mandara’s, present him my salaams, +and inform him I was now ready to start, and waiting only for the +promised guide. On this errand he went, and found Mandara in the best of +humours, and apparently grieved to hear of the mutiny in my camp, though +his one eye twinkled as he said so. + +A compromise was arrived at. Kiongwe was informed that I was _free_ to +go wherever I chose, but that Mandara _advised_ me to select the site +which his delegates would show me. As I had a hundred loads and only +thirty men willing to carry them, I had better put my goods under his +charge, and he would take care of them until they could be removed in +instalments to the selected site. I was rueful when Kiongwe returned and +communicated the result of his interview, because I felt how utterly I +had placed myself in Mandara’s power. Moreover, I dreaded lest the +proposed “taking charge of my goods” were not a pretext for exacting a +huge ransom. However, I submitted to fate, and after events showed me +that I had misjudged Mandara. The site he had selected for my settlement +was not quite equal to the one I would have preferred, as regards +natural history purposes, but it was not far removed in distance, and +certainly had many peculiar advantages. As to the goods placed under +Mandara’s care, I can only say they were made over to me absolutely +intact. + +Nevertheless, not foreknowing the happy termination of my troubles, it +was with a somewhat anxious heart that I accompanied my thirty +Zanzibaris, following as speedily as possible Mandara’s nimble soldiers. +These, our guides, sped along in front, skipping uphill like goats, and +making nothing of the slippery, clayey descents, slimy with recent +showers, where _we_ had carefully to walk sideways to avoid a headlong +tumble. But these glissades were only accidents along the winding track; +our general direction was upwards. We left the spur on which Mandara’s +residences stand, wound along a little artificial watercourse which +irrigated the chief’s banana plantations, then attacked a very steep +hill-side, up which we clambered almost on all fours, clutching at grass +tufts by the way, stopped to breathe under the spreading branches of +some magnificent acacia-trees, where the bold, grey monkeys peered at us +wonderingly with their blue faces, and ducked their heads and chattered +at our ugliness; again mounted up, up, up, till our knees grew palsied, +and our chests ached; passed through rich hedges of glossy-leaved +dracœnas, pink-flowered aloes, spreading fern-fronds and fruiting +brambles, turned the corner sharply, and entered on a less fatiguing +portion of our route. + +How charming was the journey now before us! After such a tiring ascent, +wherein we were nearly compelled to relapse into our pristine mode of +locomotion—in fact to imitate those great baboons who scampered away +from us on all fours up the lanes, disturbed in their raids on the +banana clusters; we were now able to stroll at our ease, though such was +the exhilaration of the scene, and the freshness of the morning air, +that I skipped and tripped, childlike, along the level path. And such a +path! Like a tiny towing-track it followed a Lilliputian canal, cut +along an artificial channel in the hill-side, or, to express it more +clearly, diverted from the parent-stream before the hill was a hill in a +far-off valley, and now pursuing its tranquil course and gentle descent +along the swelling bosom of the mountain, while the original rivulet +descended below in wasteful cascades. Both path and irrigating channel +hung seemingly in mid-air, jutting out from the mountain-side with a +thousand feet of tree-choked ravine below and five hundred feet of +bracken-covered hill above. Therefore, as we marched along so gaily, we +looked down on the velvety tops of the bushy trees with which the sheer +descent of rock and fern was studded, and up through the wide, +orange-tinted bracken fronds at the bright green banana groves that +crested the summit of the hill. Then we rounded the prettiest little +clump of woodland imaginable, pushed out like an ornamental shelf or +bracket from the wall of hill, and positively suspended over the green +gulf below. This, indeed, was a “hanging-wood,” and I almost hesitated +at first to follow the path that hung upon its edge, fearing lest the +weight of our passing troop might break down the border that supported +path and stream, and send us tumbling into the valley beneath. But this +was a danger more fanciful than real, for the ledge was firmly +buttressed underneath by the strong roots of the forest-trees clinging +to the rock. As we skirted this great ravine we arrived at a point where +it narrowed, and where the difference between valley and hill was less. +Here the little rivulet, which farther on its course lay a thousand feet +below, was on a level with the path, and here it was made to give birth +by careful damming to artificial canals, which started away on either +side to irrigate the terraced hill-plantations with their sluggish flow. +Where we crossed the pretty stream was in a shady hollow. It had +expanded to a shimmering pool; large sycamore fig-trees with spatulate +leaves rose above its banks. Tall arums, with pale yellow +flower-sheaths, and untidy Isolepis grasses, whose heads of streaming +filaments looked like green mops, studded its flattened banks, and we +jumped in a few seconds from stone to stone across its shallow flow, +crossing at the same time both stream and valley, and finding ourselves +commencing the ascent of the opposite hill, and, but that we now had the +widening gorge between us, seemingly retracing our steps to Mandara’s +town. His little beehive huts, on which we had hitherto turned our +backs, now reappeared behind the shoulder of the opposite hill, but when +our climb was done lay more than a thousand feet below us. Here we had +reached our destination. + +[Illustration: + + VIEW OF MANDARA’S VILLAGE FROM KITIMBIRIU. + + To face page 119. +] + +There are numberless spurs or buttresses of the parent-mountain on the +southern side of Kilima-njaro. Some are bold, serrated, and abrupt; some +are rounded and nearly flattened on the top. On one of these Mandara’s +residence is placed, on another, of more imposing height, I was about to +build; and there are yet others, and others, and others, stretching out +westward and eastward into the great plain below. Each one of these +spreading buttresses is separated from its neighbours by a ravine, +which, as you ascend it, will gradually narrow and narrow until it +disappears, and the two diverging spurs of the mountain converge into +the parent mass, so that the general effect of Kilima-njaro from the +south would suggest a tree-trunk poised on its spreading roots. In each +ravine there is a rivulet, and along the crest of each buttress, or it +may be somewhat to the side, meanders an artificially-trained stream, +diverted from the rivulet at some higher fountain or waterfall, and +carried in a gentle descent along the brow of the hill. This, of course, +is the handiwork of man, but so industrious have been at varying times +the Bantu inhabitants of Kilima-njaro, that there is scarcely a spur +descending from the southern base of the mountain that is unprovided +with the irrigating channel—or, it may be, three or four channels at +different elevations—running along its sloping crest or flanks, and +keeping its terraced gardens supplied with water. In those parts where +wars have devastated the country, and where the hills are no longer +cultivated or inhabited, these former runnels of water still remain, +although from want of care the channels may have dried up and become +turfed over. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 28.—Head and Shoulders of our Cow. +] + +In half an hour I had fixed on the site for my settlement, and remained +there alone to guard the first instalment of my goods while my men +returned to bring the rest. By the end of the afternoon everything had +safely arrived, and for the first time during many weeks I knew what it +was to be free from care, and be able to enjoy an afternoon of idleness. +I no longer cared now whether the men of Rabai ran away or not. My goods +were safely landed at my destination, my wearying tramp over wold and +fell, sharp rocks and scorching sand, was at an end, and I was free to +rest with the satisfaction of finding that my brightest anticipations of +Kilima-njaro scenery were realized. No more desperate marches after +water, only to find it hidden away in the crevices of lofty hills. +There, alongside of me, in front of me, as I sat in my deck-chair on the +broad brow of the hill, swirled the water in its artificial channel, +brought by man’s patient ingenuity to keep us company in our eyrie. A +little way off me lay my men, their work for the day concluded. They had +with happy abandonment thrown themselves down on the sweet turf, lying +half somnolent in fragrant beds of mint and clover, crushing with their +dead weight many a delicate ground-orchid or purple-red dissotis. The +tent had been pitched, and the cook’s fire was sending up a little +column of smoke, which stood out bluish-white against the green +background of the rising hill-side. A goat and kid, a cow and calf, +presents from Mandara, munched peacefully the rank grass round the +bushes, but save for the occasional smothered tearing noise they made +when cropping the herbage, and except the desultory conversation between +the two cooks, no sound broke the dreamy silence. By a thoughtful order +of Mandara’s, no native was allowed to visit my encampment the first day +of our arrival, so that, until we had got all our goods safely stored, +there might be no temptation to steal. Consequently my attention was +undistracted, and totally given to the examination of my new +surroundings. + +The site of my first settlement on Kilima-njaro lay about two miles to +the north-east of the capital of Moši (in latitude 3° 17′ 30″ S., and +longitude 37° 25′ E.), on the brow of a fine hill nearly 5000 feet above +the sea; but, of course, not much elevated above the surrounding +country. On either side yawned a deep ravine, with a stream flowing +through in its depths; but at the back the hill, which was only one of +the many spurs of the mountain-side, joined the parent mass, and might +thus be easily approached without much serious climbing. It would have +been a splendid site for a city, and, indeed—who knows?—may be some day. +I sometimes amuse myself by thinking that when—as it must be sooner or +later—Kilima-njaro is colonized by a superior race, and fair cities +spring up on its breezy heights, some of them may arise from the +original sites of my various stations, and when they look back with +complacency on their prosperous career and some aspiring archivist +starts to write their history from its earliest commencement, my +insignificance may be rescued from utter oblivion as the first +inhabitant and the pristine architect of their foundation. Perhaps in +the city museum may be preserved some curious relics of my stay—a +champagne-bottle, a petroleum-tin, or an empty jar that once contained +arsenical soap; and in the municipal library, perhaps even a copy of +this book may be found, in which the passages descriptive of the city’s +ancient site may be eagerly discussed and quoted. In the interest, then, +of a possible futurity, I will complete the history of my settlement in +Moši, the native name of which was “Kitimbiriu.” On the summit of this +elongated hill—_colline_, or “little neck,” is a French name which +describes it well—was a nearly level and broad plateau, three sides of +which descended almost precipitously into the valleys below. With a very +little work it might have been made unapproachable save from the north, +where it joined on to higher ground. Along one side and then across and +down the other side flowed a tiny artificial canal of clear water +brought from a tumbling stream higher up the mountain, and carried along +this hill from above in a very gently descending channel. Thus we had +water at our very door, and needed not to seek it in the ravine a +thousand feet below. It seemed so strange and quaint to find a placid +brooklet flowing along high ground up in the clouds and at the edge of a +precipice. All this was due to the patient industry of the Wa-čaga of +Kilima-njaro, who prefer to live on the tops of hills for safety, and +therefore carry their water in artificial channels from the heights +above, and make it flow the whole length of these inhabited spurs, while +the parent streams go dashing down the valleys, descending in cascades +of 70 and 100 feet, till they flow far, far below the placid canals +which water the hill-crests stretching out into the plains. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 29.—A View towards Mačame. +] + +In the centre of my settlement a large and spreading tree gave a +pleasant shade in the warm noonday, and further sheltered my habitations +from the occasional high winds; and lastly—and this, I suppose, no +afterwork of man can alter—the view to be obtained from this site was +almost unequalled in Čaga. “All the world,” said Mandara once, “can be +seen from your windows;” and though, of course, it was not a strictly +true assertion, it was plausible when uttered in view of such a splendid +expanse of country—such a veritable map of Eastern Africa as might be +seen from Kitimbiriu. The two snow-peaks of Kibô and Kimawenzi rose +above us to the north. Looking westward we might gaze over the whole +belt of inhabited country as far as Mačame, near the great western +shoulder of Kilima-njaro, which stretches towards Méru. Many a +forest-crowned hill intervened; and in the foreground the scenery was a +bewildering maze of banana plantations in their glinting, vivid green, +of maize-fields, of patches of red and freshly turned-up soil, and dark +purple blots, which were isolated trees left standing in the cultivated +land. Then there were the bare, sheep-cropped downs forming stretches of +pale green colour, and the hill-sides clothed with feathery bracken, +which at the season of my arrival (June) was dried to a vivid yellow. +All these varied tones, too crude and startling in the foreground, +became harmonized into a beautiful green and purple patchwork in the +middle distance, and faded away near the horizon into a calm and tender +violet, broken here and there by the blue puffs of smoke which +everywhere mark the inhabited zone; for the natives of Čaga are +perpetually clearing the land of weeds and burning the refuse in great +bonfires to fertilize the soil with the ashes. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 30. + + A View towards Ugweno. +] + +Southward and eastward I looked across to the beautiful blue hills of +Ugweno,[15] at the base of which lies Lake ǰipé. The lake cannot be seen +from the elevation of Kitimbiriu, but mount a thousand feet higher and +you will descry it like an oblong mirror at the base of the purple +hills. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 31.—Mount Méru. +] + +But in all this range of view there was no grander object for the eyes +to rest on—scarcely excepting the snowy dome of Kibô—than Méru, the +grandest mountain in symmetrical shape that Africa can boast. It rises, +a perfect pyramid, to the west of Kilima-njaro, and springs heavenward +from the sunny plain till it reaches a height of nearly 15,000 feet.[16] +I wish I could paint it for you as I saw it at the close of this +tranquil afternoon when I lay resting and awaiting my dinner on the +hill-top of Kitimbiriu. Imagine, first, a western sky of clear, pale +gold, deepening into orange just close to the horizon. Over this hangs +in the upper heaven a thin sheet of greyish purple cloud, semi-opaque, +semi-transparent, letting a little of the warm ground show through, +sharp edged, and so disposed at a slight angle as to appear like the +border of a dusky curtain prepared to drop over the scene. This foil +enhances the vivid glory of the golden belt which stretches across the +sky. Then out of a serrated horizon of unimportant peaks and cones rises +the clear, dark blue pyramid of Méru, its outline just a little tampered +with by Nature, so that it may not be rendered too formal. The summit is +slightly flattened, and on the right side a jagged notch breaks the +uniformity of its long northern slope. The accidental effect of colour +is as beautiful as anything. Seen by this light there is no subtle +interweaving of tints. The whole mass of Méru is one clear tone of dark +grey-blue, and the brilliant band of sky behind is an unvaried positive +gold. Just to break the almost decorative look the formal contrast +bears, there is one faint, delicate smear of cloud stretching right +across the upper half of mountain and sky. Méru is cut off from the +middle distance by a long, undulating, purple line marking the farthest +westward spur of Kilima-njaro. The centre of the picture is a rich, +dusky-green plain, interwoven with lines of purple and brown to mark the +distant clumps of forest bordering the river-course. In the more distant +foreground stretch out the nearer buttresses of Kilima-njaro, long lines +of hillocks, crested with occasional umbrageous trees, but more often +clothed with banana groves of pale, pure green. These interwoven lines +of hill stretch upwards from the vague obscurity of the middle distance +till they culminate in the great simple shoulder of the down rising +across our ravine. This is a plain grassy slope with white goats +browsing on it, but in the immediate foreground it is dropping into the +more misty depths of the widening gorge over whose purple abyss soar and +wheel in high relief a few brown vultures. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 32.—A Kite. +] + +It was most delightful thus to look forth from my eyrie on the many +lands spread before me as on a huge and living map, and also to feel +that I was safe from all attack on the part of the lawless rovers of the +plains. My gaze stretched away, even into parts of Africa that are +unknown and unvisited of white men, and I could scan the natural +features of these countries at a glance, and correct the disposition of +their rivers and mountain ranges on the map. Sometimes, when the partial +mists rose over the nearer hills and valleys, and the brow of my hill +seemed to be an island floating in the air, the effect was a most +pleasing and novel one. I, my men, my huts, and my domestic animals +seemed to be sailing over Africa in a giant balloon. Below us, beyond +the mists, were the sunlit plains, the lines of velvet forest bordering +the winding streams, the stretches of open pasture-land like lakes of +grass, green amid the darker forest and the purple hills. Then, at our +feet, rolling clouds of grey vapour, and, standing out in strong relief +against this vacuous background, the soaring kites who wheeled and +poised with outspread pinions just below my feet, seeming like the birds +which accompanied Solomon when he flew through the air on his magic +carpet, as the Arab legends tell us. + +Throughout the four months of my residence in Kitimbiriu the beauties of +the scenery never palled and never grew monotonous. With such varied +atmospheric agencies the effects around us changed like the designs of a +kaleidoscope, and rarely came two alike. Sometimes, perhaps at early +dawn, everything would be veiled in blank mist, save only the summit of +Kibô, and this would gleam out above the clouds, like some supernatural +vision, rosy in the effulgence of the coming dawn. Or, it might be, in +the noontide every trace of vapour would have vanished, and the velvet +forest lie glowing in gold-green light and dusky purple shadows, every +detail strongly marked, while the precipices, jutting rocks, and shining +_nevées_ of Kibô were discernible with startling clearness, though the +peak lay distant nearly fifteen miles. In the afternoon, perhaps, the +sky was hung with dense curtains of purple-grey cloud, and the plain +below lay in monotonous blue shadow; only away to the west, behind the +pyramid of Méru, the heavens exhibited one clear, cloudless belt, which +the descending sun turned to refulgent gold, and against this relief, as +on some antique illumination or decorative design, the peak of Méru and +the jagged hill-tops at its base would stand out in a simple tone of +indigo. + +On the morning succeeding my arrival I had little leisure for observing +the scenery, although I felt in high spirits and very much the better +for my long, dreamy, restful afternoon of the day before, spent idly in +the contemplation of the matchless landscapes round me. Perhaps for this +reason I was inclined to relent in my just wrath against the Rabai +porters, and pay them the remainder of their wages and let them go. Or +it may have been a message from Mandara, asking me to overlook their +mutiny of the day before, and send them back to the coast with their +money and food allowance, which decided me to this act of forgiveness, +for such powerful advocacy was not to be slighted. Accordingly these +creatures were summoned from Mandara’s village, ranged in line by my +Zanzibaris, and received their “chits,” or slips of paper, which they +were to present for payment to the Consul on the coast. On each “chit” +was written the amount of the man’s wages, _minus_ fines for +misbehaviour, or _plus_ a present for well-doing. Further, perhaps, was +a line or two of writing to serve as a “character,” good or bad, as the +case may be, which Captain Gissing, when he payed them at Mombasa, would +doubtless enlarge into a stern upbraiding or kindly commendation. I +fear, however, from what I remember of these men, that he would have +been more occupied in rebuking than commending, for a worse stamp of men +than the Rabai porters I have rarely met with in Africa, and I think +most other travellers’ experience is the same. Their first evangelist, +Krapf, describes them in despair as a “crooked and indifferent +generation of heathens,” and although the generation of which he wrote +may have passed away, the one to which it has given place amply +illustrates the principle of heredity by perpetuating with increased +force the ancestral badness. + +It was with considerable relief that I dismissed them from my settlement +in Čaga and turned to my faithful Zanzibaris, who were setting to work +with bright activity to make our little colony inhabitable. Twenty of +these Zanzibaris were allowed to lie by and rest, for I intended to send +them shortly back to Taita to fetch the goods there left behind in the +missionary’s house, when so many of the Wa-rabai deserted; but of the +remaining twelve, each man received his appointed task. Abdallah was +made supervisor of the working men; Mabruki and Athmani were already +engaged in drying plants and skinning birds under my tuition; Faraǰi and +Cephas were building a kitchen; Ibrahim was sent with Baher, Fariǰala, +and Mwali Mnyani to take spades and clear the site for my house; +Abdallah bin Saleh was to cut grass and attend to the goat and cow; Mguu +collected firewood for the cooks; while, most important task of all, to +Kadu Stanley was given the post of gardener—he had to dig up a piece of +soil, divide it into neat plots, sow it with my English seeds, and hedge +it round about with a sturdy palisade. The day succeeding my arrival I +had already put into my kitchen-garden the seeds of mustard and cress, +radishes, turnips, carrots, onions, tomatoes, borage, sage, cucumbers, +and melons; and at the end of my first week in Čaga, I was already +eating a salad of my own growing. + +We did not, however, sink at once into this life of quiet colonization. +During the first few days of my stay I was much annoyed by continual +visits from Mandara’s parasites; wretched bankrupt Swahili traders or +runaway slaves, who had taken refuge with the chief of Moši from their +creditors or owners; and, in the sense that a one-eyed man is king +amongst the blind, so this rascality of the coast quite lorded it over +the simple savage, and affected to consider itself on a par with the +white man. From the first time, however, that I met them on the road to +Čaga, when they were sent to welcome me to Mandara’s country. I felt it +would be a struggle for supremacy between us. They were secretly enraged +at my coming, fearing to lose their influence over the fickle chief, and +seeing much hindrance to the slave-trade, which they, the ex-slaves, +were so profitably organizing. Accordingly, from the very first they +sought to thwart me, and, without resorting to any overt act of malice, +intended to render my stay in the country impossible. Before I had +barely occupied my settlement a day they began making constant visits to +my tent, coolly demanding this and that article in the name of Mandara. +At first I simply declined, but, after one or two refusals, their +ringleader, an ape-like, shrunken man, marked with small-pox, said in a +threatening tone, “I tell you what, young man (kiǰana), if you are not +more generous, you will never be able to stop here.” I immediately +seized my stick, and jumped after him; but he had gathered up his skirts +and fled, followed by his companions. At this juncture there was but one +course to be pursued. I called to me two or three of my men, took my +walking-stick, and started on the road to Mandara’s house. Arriving at +his village green, I saw his Swahili parasites lolling about, some of +them affecting to play with much interest a game like “draughts,” called +_bao_, although I saw them watching me out of the corners of their eyes. +All, however, studiously remained indifferent to my approach, and for a +second I paused, irresolute as to how I should announce myself to the +chief. Then I called to the nearest man, who was stooping over one of +the _bao_ players, and told him quietly to go and tell Mandara I desired +an interview. He kept his back turned to me, shrugged his shoulders, and +smiled scornfully at his comrades. My temper rose, but, apart from this, +I knew these curs only cringe to force. I raised my stick, and brought +it down with a sounding thwack on the shoulders of the inattentive man. +“Now,” I said, “you pig, you slave, go and tell the chief I have come to +say good-bye.” He looked startled and hurried off. Presently I was +summoned by a Čaga warrior to approach, but before I reached the hedge +of dracœnas that bounded Mandara’s enclosure the chief himself came +striding to meet me, not, as I had nerved myself to meet him, with +knitted brows and sullen scowl, but with a charming smile and beaming +face. Taking both my hands in his outstretched palms, he said, “What! +has my white man come to see me already? How good! Now we must have a +chat. Bring a seat there, and a cup of ‘tembo.’” This winning manner +quite altered the tone of my feelings, and, after such graciousness, I +felt that peevish complaints sounded very ill from my mouth. However, I +braced myself to the disagreeable task, and told him resolutely that I +must leave if any further demand for presents was made. “You know, +Mandara, I am a poor man. The Wa-alimu (wise men) of Ulaya have not +provided me with many goods. I cannot afford to give you constant gifts. +If you really want me to build here and live in your country, you must +leave off asking me for presents.” + +Mandara, at these words, looked around on all present with well-acted +astonishment. His one bright eye grew sad and perplexed under his +knitted brow, as he said, “What is the white man saying? I don’t +understand. Why does he want to go?” My men then told him, with averted +looks and in tones of deepest respect, that the white man was offended +because Mandara’s Swahilis came asking for frequent gifts for their +chief. “Oh, is that all?” said Mandara, who had of course instigated the +whole affair, and had sent these men to sound me gently, and see if I +was of a generous and yielding temperament. “These men don’t know what +they are saying; they should converse with the white man’s servants, not +with him. But,” he said, “we are wasting our time over little +words—_manéno madogo_. Between the white man and Mandara only great +affairs should be treated of, or else general and light conversation +(zumgumzo). I am Sultan here, am I not?” (An eager and hurried assent on +every one’s part.) “And this is the Baloza’s child. Let him settle here +in peace, and not concern himself with the conversation of slaves.” Here +he affected to scowl at the Wa-swahili, who bore all this tirade very +stolidly, as if a prearranged comedy was being carried out. However, I +was not to be outdone in amiability, and so I heartily shook Mandara’s +great paw, and drank sour tembo (which I detested) with an affected +enjoyment quite touching in its hypocrisy. Then a bright idea crossed my +mind and I said—seeing that Mandara expected a reply to his +oration—“Mandara, I have got a little tale (hadithi) to tell you.” “I am +listening,” answered the chief. “Once, do you know, in Ulaya, there was +a man who had a hen (none of the Wa-čaga have heard of geese) which laid +him every morning a golden egg. And the man was very pleased at first, +but after awhile he got impatient, and he said, ‘Instead of waiting for +many days till I get a good sum from this hen’s eggs, let me cut her +open now, and get out all the gold at once.’ And he did so, and found +nothing inside. Now, wasn’t that a foolish man, Mandara?” “Ye-es,” +replied the chief thoughtfully, “perhaps he was.” Then he sipped more +tembo, and reflected. After a pause he turned to me and continued, “And +now _I_ will tell _you_ a tale. When I plant a seed or a sapling here in +my plantation, I let it grow quietly at first—I do not pull it up to +look at its roots, and I do not pluck its early blossoms or its tender +leaves. I wait until it is mature, and then,” he added thoughtfully, +looking straight before him, “if it fails to bear abundant fruit, I cut +it down.” + +Then our conversation ranged over the most varied subjects—European +life, a description from me of an ironclad—_manowari_ (man-of-war) as +Mandara called it—the history and configuration of Čaga from Mandara, +whose notion of local geography was singularly correct—the Čaga +language, the English tongue, and so on. + +The interview ended in rapturous friendship. Mandara declared himself my +father, claimed me as a son, and announced, almost hysterically, a +complete community of goods (a statement to which I inwardly demurred). +“Whenever the white man wanted a cow or a goat, he would just take them +from the herds of his father Mandara, and whenever Mandara desired a +handsome gun or a European bed, he would use those that belonged to his +white child.” + +As an earnest of this happy arrangement he sent for a splendid ram, with +an immensely fat tail, a ewe, and a lamb, and handed them over to me as +a little “kitowéo” (relish), to take back to my camp. I then shook his +great hand enthusiastically, and with many a parting shout of “Kwa-heri +(good-bye), Mandara,” “Kwa-heri, mtoto wangu!” (good-bye, my child), I +turned my steps back to Kitimbiriu, my men enthusiastic over the “manéno +mazuri” (fine words) which had passed between their master and the chief +of Moši. Of course on my return I made up a quantity of the things he +most coveted, especially a number of packets of European seeds, and sent +them to him as an equivalent for the sheep. After this interview the +relations between Mandara and myself assumed such a friendly character, +that I felt myself able to rely entirely on his goodwill as a protection +against the rapacity of his followers. Consequently, the very next day I +despatched twenty men to Taita for the purpose, already mentioned, of +bringing the last instalment of goods left behind. + +[Illustration: + + KIBÔ IN THE EARLY MORNING. + + To face page 136. +] + +When these had departed, I was now at liberty to turn my attention to +more congenial studies. I installed my two collectors in a quickly +constructed hut, unpacked the bales of botanical paper, the cases of +taxidermist paraphernalia, and other necessaries in natural history +collecting, and set to work to amass and preserve as many specimens of +the fauna and flora around me as I could obtain. Having given every man +his allotted task, and being able to trust the general supervision of +the settlement to my Indian servant, I was freer in my movements than I +had been for a long time, and could ramble about alone all day with the +certainty of finding everything going on well when I returned. With a +light heart I was able to explore the beauties of my African +Switzerland. First of all, I desired to obtain a sketch of the snowy +dome of Kibô. This, the highest summit of Kilima-njaro, was not always +on view. For weeks together he would be swathed in clouds. But should +you be an early riser, you would hardly fail to catch a glimpse of him +just at sunrise, when before the cold breath of morning the unfolding +clouds part and scatter, and disclose his splendid crown of virgin snow, +irradiated with the pale pink sunshine. Thus it was that within a few +days of my arrival I had my first good stare at, and began my first +detailed sketch of Kilima-njaro’s highest peak, which the coast people +call “the mountain of the Snow Fiend,” and the Masai more reverently +term “the Home of God.” I hurried a short distance from my camp to the +edge of the ravine, whence there was little to obstruct the view, and +there, squatted amid the crushed bracken fronds at the commencement of +the precipitous descent, I looked across first to the opposite hill, +crested with feathery trees, acacias, sycamores, and palms, and then to +the swelling forest-clad heights beyond, gloomy and sombre in the shade, +as yet untouched by the sloping sunshine. Above these a vast white sheet +of fleecy cloud, uniform and flat, and crowning all, as if cut off from +the lower earth, and floating majestically in the pale blue heaven, the +snow-covered dome, with its blemishes of shadow and blaze of +preponderating light like that of the disc of the moon. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 34.—A Native Dam. +] + +The jealous clouds, however, granted me but a poor half-hour in which to +sketch the features of their monarch, and I was compelled to defer the +completion of my work to other opportunities. Meanwhile, I extended my +walks, gun in hand, and a collecting portfolio on my back, in all +directions, but my first favourite stroll was up the valley of our +little stream. Following the tiny path which ran parallel with our +irrigating channel, I came to the place where the latter branched off +from the parent stream. Here, at will, a passing native could cut off +our water-supply by laying a packet of grass and mud athwart the little +channel, and, therefore, bearing this in mind, and regarding also the +fertility and beauty of the rich valley (full of the alluvial soil +washed down from the hill-sides by the rain), I resolved that hereabouts +my principal plantations should be made. I obtained Mandara’s consent to +the plan, and accordingly set my man, Kadu Stanley, to work at once, +directing him to clear away the brushwood, burn it, mix the ashes with +the soil, and then plough the whole field up and break the clods of +earth. Soon many a rich bed of dark red earth was sown with seed, and +separated from its fellows by little runnels, along which, once a day or +oftener, water, diverted from the nearest waterfall, was turned. Indeed, +perpetual irrigation was here much simplified. The plenteous stream went +bounding through the valley, with a cascade every hundred yards or so. +From the head of these waterfalls nothing was easier than to divert a +stream on either side, carry it along a banked-up channel above your +plantations, and turn the water wherever you willed into the network of +tiny trenches which intersected the plots of ground. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 35.—“Kitimbiriu” (our First Settlement on Kilima-njaro). +] + +However, artificial irrigation seemed almost a superfluity in Čaga, +where never a month passed without rain, and where the climate was as +moist as that of Devonshire. I soon began to find that my first care +must be to get a rain-proof roof to sleep under. Our primal houses were +roughly made in a very few days. The men proceeded to the forest, cut a +certain number of poles, used those that were forked at one extremity as +“uprights,” and laid the horizontal rods across them, tying everything +securely with long lithe strips of wetted banana fibre. Then to this +rough framework they affixed a number of smaller sticks, until a rough +lattice-work was formed, and finally, the whole, roof and all, would be +neatly thatched with the old fronds of the banana-tree, resembling brown +paper in look and texture. (By-the-bye, when civilization extends to +Africa and people have got beyond the stage when they only seek for gold +or diamonds, it strikes me that sun-dried banana leaves would form an +admirable material for paper-making, superior to esparto grass.) +Provided the roof was done with care, it ought to be completely +rain-tight. As it was, a little patching generally had to take place +after the first shower. No windows, of course, were made. Light was +obtained from the open doorway, which was closed at night by a +mackintosh curtain and a door of wooden framework. Inside, the earthen +floor was stamped hard by men’s feet, and before inhabiting the house +numerous fires were burnt on the ground and their ashes pounded into the +beaten earth. Of course a trench or moat, to carry off the heavy rain, +was dug all round the house, so that it generally happened that these +hastily-constructed abodes were wonderfully dry and snug. When the house +was built for my own occupation I had a large mat made from plaited +strips of the useful “migomba” (dried banana leaves), and thrown down on +the bare floor of beaten earth. Then, on this, one or two wild beasts’ +skins or a bright-coloured Zanzibar “mkeka” (dyed grass mat), added +quite a comfortable look to the interior. My bed was mounted in one +corner, my portable table stood in the centre of the dwelling, boxes of +necessaries were arranged along the walls, my washing-basin was poised +on a roughly-made tripod, shelves were hastily rigged up to support the +lighter articles of my equipment, and lastly, nails and hooks were +knocked into the accommodating rafters, and from these depended all the +heterogeneous articles that would let themselves be hung up. + +Similar habitations were constructed for my men, paths were cleared and +open spaces mowed, and soon, where before had been little but the +pristine wilderness, rose the first decided outlines of my little +colony. + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + “HALCYON DAYS.” + + +About a month was spent in the calm and contemplative occupations +described in the last chapter. + +[Illustration: + + A CORNER OF OUR SETTLEMENT. + + To face page 143. +] + +This period seemed in one way to pass all too quickly, for the days +slipped by one after the other, and no date stood marked out prominently +by extraordinary events; and yet for the amount of work performed and +for the changes in our environment, that first short term of our +residence on Kilima-njaro was an age, a cycle of history, especially for +the natives. While two-thirds of my men were tramping to Taita and back +to fetch the rest of my goods, I, with the remaining third, was hard at +work during every twelve hours of daylight. Not only did we build the +temporary houses and plant the kitchen-gardens I have already described, +but we installed our cows and goats in a spacious stable, constructed +with sufficient strength to resist a night attack from leopards; we set +going a poultry-run of eighty fowls; and we established a primitive +dairy, wherein the milk from our animals was laid out in large flat +wooden dishes (bought from the natives), and produced such a liberal +quantity of cream that when enough had been taken to churn into butter +(this operation was really performed by shaking in a large bottle), the +remainder served to enrich my afternoon tea or early breakfast. One +morning towards the close of this most tranquil period my heart really +swelled with proprietary pride, when I saw on my neatly-laid +breakfast-table the first new-laid eggs of my poultry-yard, the first +radishes from my garden, the first loaf from our home-made oven, +together with the adjuncts of our dairy, a pat of butter and a jug of +cream. With opulence came refinement and the renaissance of art. I was +now no longer content to lodge in a hut, however dry and snug. I wanted +a spacious house. The ground being cleared and levelled, I planned out +with pegs and twine a residence of ample size and regular proportions—26 +feet long and 18 feet wide, with two “wings” of 9 feet square at the +sides. The roof was to rise to a height of 12 feet at the apex, in the +centre, and slope down to 7 feet at the sides. The interior of the main +building was to be again divided lengthways by inside partitions into +two equal portions, one-half to furnish a long salon and reception-room, +and the other to be subdivided again into three compartments, which +would be respectively used as bed-room, bath-room, and store-room. Of +the two wings, one would become my servant’s room, and the other a +pantry where the crockery and table-gear should be kept. It was +altogether a grand scheme, a majestic design, and when my six or seven +builders were initiated into the plans they tapped their open mouths +with their hands to express their admiration for such a bold flight in +architecture. But the fact was that, like many ambitious projectors, my +plans were too vast for the means at hand for carrying them into +operation. During three months this great edifice was constructing, and +a few days after the last touches were put to its embellishments I had, +alas! to leave Moši for good, and my deserted palace doubtless remains +behind (white ants and natives permitting) to testify to future +explorers, by its (relatively) Cyclopean proportions and harmonious +design, that an ambitious white man once sojourned in that spot. + +While my building of clay and wood may prove but fleeting evidences of +my long residence in Moši, the roads I made, and even the bridges over +the shallow streams are likelier to subsist. One of my first actions on +entering a savage country and residing there, though it may be only for +a day or two, is to get men, axes, sickles, and spades, and clear a path +from somewhere to somewhere else through the dense bush. It always seems +to me that in so doing I am opening up, however feebly, the land to +civilization. Moreover, if you are going to collect in the forest and +study nature there, it is much pleasanter to have a decent path along +which to walk to your basis of operations. So my broad tracks stretched +right away in many directions from the settlement, and along them I +could go backwards and forwards to my work. + +So even was the tenor of my ways during this first month in Moši, that I +can find no striking events worthy to lay before you, other than the +mild domestic incidents of this bucolic life. As one day was the +repetition of another, I may describe pretty accurately how a whole +month was passed by retailing to you the petty incidents and occupations +which made up the sum of my existence between awaking from my slumbers +in the morning and retiring to my well-earned rest at night. + +One typical day of my first month’s residence in Kitimbiriu shall be +taken from my diary and laid before you, with a little filling in of +details and addition of explanatory information, necessary to my +readers, but superfluous in my own journal, where I write from one day +to another with due regard for my memory of recorded events and +observations. + +About seven in the morning (in these equatorial regions it is scarcely +light till nearly six) I hear the plashing of water in my bath, mingling +with the last echoes of some fantastic dream—perchance some incongruous +vision of English life that has come upon me in my heavy morning +slumber—and I gradually awake, with many a sigh and groan, to find my +servant Virapan filling my bath with several kettlefuls of warm water +and a pail of cold from the stream, whose murmur I occasionally hear +coming as a second to the treble of the cackling hens and bleating +goats. Ah! how I hesitate to leave the shelter of my sheets and +blankets! Though the slanting morning sunbeams pierce the crevices of +the thatched wall, and fall in golden _paillettes_ on the matted floor, +the thermometer still marks little over fifty, and the air is sharp and +keen, even within my sheltered hut. Nevertheless, the steaming bath will +soon be lukewarm if I dally, and moreover breakfast—and in this healthy +life I love my meals, and look forward to them with tender +longing—cannot be laid until the bath is out of the way, so with one +impetuous bound I am out of the sheets, my pyjamas are flung off, and I +can sponge myself with the warm water which, in the tropics, is so much +healthier and more beneficial than the icy douche which strong-minded, +generally disagreeable, people affect in England. + +I find my pen was leading me into a detailed description of my toilet, +an act so purely superfluous and uninteresting to the reader that I am +glad I stopped short in time. Give me a quarter of an hour after my +bath, and I am clothed, and brushed, and spruce, and standing at my +cottage door lustily ringing a small hand-bell. When its last brazen +tinkle is silent, cries are heard from the distant huts of my Swahili +porters. “Tayari, Bwana, Tayari. Aya! Kazi, Kazi!” “Ready, master, +ready. Work, to work!” These ejaculations are meant somewhat to appease +me while the utterers are turning regretfully from their couches or +their firesides, and donning their scanty garments. Then nine or ten men +come running down the incline, for their quarters are higher up the hill +than mine, and hastily form themselves into a line in front of my door. + +I call over the roll: “Cephas?” (Cephas is the chief cook, and is +engaged in cooking my breakfast, so I excuse his reply.) “Faraji?” +“Ndimi, Bwana—here I am, sir,” comes a cry from the cowshed, where +milking is going on. “Abdallah?” (Abdallah is for the time being +head-man, and Minister of Public Works in my Cabinet. He is slightly +deceitful, invariably courteous, always tidy and smartly dressed, rather +a rogue but an accomplished one.) “Hapa, Bwana—here, sir.” “Fariǰala?” +“Yes, sir.” (Fariǰala has been an old mission boy, and retains “Yes, +sir,” as the last fragment of the English tongue. He also sings “Te +Deums” when at work, imagining them to be popular English melodies. He +is a good, willing fellow, thoroughly honest.) “Ibrahim?” (Ibrahim is +the best man in the caravan. He is short, fat, with an enormous mouth, +and always in a good temper.) And so I go through the list of names till +the twelve are accounted for. This task over, I then have to attend to +small ailments of some. This man has an ulcer, that a stomach-ache, +another complains of a cough, more often the maladies suddenly assumed +are of a less tangible character, like the neuralgia of civilization. “A +pain here, sir, oh! so bad. I’m afraid I can’t work to-day.” “Oh, +nonsense! you ate too much yesterday. Go and chop some firewood, that’ll +do you more good than medicine.” And so all are finally told off to +their tasks—two to attend to the gardens, one to get firewood, one to +herd the goats, sheep, and cow, another to look after the fowls, five to +build the big house or cut the roads, as the case maybe. Faraǰi and +Cephas of course attend to the cooking, and nothing else. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 37.—Clematis and Hibiscus. +] + +Now I am a free man, and may go for a stroll in the fresh morning air +before breakfast is served, walking along the path that fringes the +crest of the narrowing hill-spur on which the settlement is placed, +gazing, perhaps, at the majestic snow-peak of Kibô which rises sharp and +clear above the morning mists, or gathering wild flowers to deck my +breakfast-table. Here grow gorgeous dissotises, large-petalled mauvered +flowers, primrose-yellow and purple-centred hibiscuses, creamy-white +clematis, with thick, woolly petals, and many lovely blossoms of +balsams, and a mauve-white thing like phlox—quite a glowing mass of +colour in my natural garden, which makes me hotly refute the theory that +the tropics cannot produce flowershows equal to those of the temperate +zone. + +I come back in answer to the earnest appeals of Virapan, who assures me +breakfast is getting cold, but I must yet delay my sitting down till my +floral treasures are placed in water, and put in the centre of my +repast. I must describe to you my breakfast-table. I have a right to +pride myself on its appearance, as most of the good things it bears are +our own local productions and not imported from Europe, and I want it to +preach a little lesson that will show how much Africa may be made to +yield in the way of comfort when comfort is sought. Of course this +applies more to the resident than to the traveller, who cannot stay long +enough in a place to develop its resources. + +Firstly, there is a nice snowy cloth spread over the table, then the +silver is bright, and the enamelled iron plates are clean, all details +which are due to a little supervision over servants’ work. The grateful +steam of coffee comes from a pretty _cafetière_, a little white jug +contains hot milk from my own cow, there is a pat of fresh butter of our +own making lying in a cool green leaf, a nicely-baked loaf, made from +maize-flour and eggs (and in a long parenthesis I might explain that the +flour is of our own grinding and sifting, and the eggs are from our own +poultry); and lastly, there are grilled kidneys from a sheep we killed +yesterday, fried bananas as an _entremet_, and a bowl of honey. + +Of all these delicacies, only coffee and sugar are extraneous, so that I +hope thus to show how much comfort and good living may be extracted even +from savage Africa. + +When the meal is finished I set out to visit my plantations. They are +situated about half a mile from my house. The walk thither takes you +along the little stream which supplies a canal, or, to use a more +expressive Cornish word, a “leat” of water to our settlement, and the +ground has been cleared and planted near the waterside, so that +irrigation is easy. Here is working Kadu Stanley, a bright, willing +Mganda boy, given by King Mtesa of Buganda to Stanley, when he visited +that monarch in 1876. Kadu has sojourned several years on the Congo, and +after his return to Zanzibar has taken service with me. I have made him +head-gardener. + +Here are planted all the seeds I have brought from England, together +with potatoes, onions, &c., brought from Zanzibar, and many native +vegetables as well. Already, after a month or six weeks, the growth is +surprising. Radishes are still in good condition for eating, the mustard +and cress have run to seed, turnips are nearly ready, carrots and +cucumbers are coming up, and sticks have been already placed in long +rows for the peas and beans. The purple-green shoots of the potatoes are +springing up wherever “eyes” have been planted, some of the onions are +in flower. The only recalcitrant thing is spinach, which for some reason +will not flourish. + +I leave Kadu and go onwards up the valley, sketch-book under my arm, and +my small bird-gun in my hand. Across the stream there flits a large +kingfisher, grey and rufous brown and verditer-blue, with red beak. Like +the real aboriginal kingfisher, he feeds only on insects, as there are +no fish in these streams. Fishing has been quite an afterthought with +the kingfishers, and is a pastime by no means shared by all the members +of the group. Many Australian species, the halcyon of the Cape Verde +Islands, and this common East African halcyon found on Kilima-njaro +never attempt to catch fish, even though they be near streams well +stocked with piscine prey, but content themselves with the variety of +insects that haunt the waterside. I shoot this kingfisher just to +identify him, and afterwards, when his little stomach is opened, the +carapaces of beetles and remains of grasshoppers are found within. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 38.—A ravine in Moši. +] + +Now the stream I am ascending becomes two streamlets, and the valley +bifurcates into two ravines, while the broad slope of a hill faces me, +so I leave the pleasant path along the waterside and toil up the clayey +ascent. But when I have reached the level crest of this bracken-covered +height, I slip into a smooth and level track, winding along between low +hedges of strychnia and dracœna, and giving off many side turnings which +lead to native compounds and enclosures. Several maidens pass me shyly, +going to market with bananas or neat baskets of millet meal or bags of +Indian corn. Some of the bolder, who have perhaps met me before in the +market-place, or at Mandara’s, give me the Čaga greeting, “Mbuia” +(friend), to which I heartily reply, “Mbuia, mbuia.” How strange it is! +In all probability many of these Čaga girls have never seen me or any +other white man before; yet we meet in a lane suddenly, and beyond a +somewhat timid shrinking to one side, there is no fear and no surprise +exhibited. Each after the formal greeting wends his or her way +tranquilly. And yet, to imagine a similar contrast, suppose some English +country girls, say in the most rural depths of Somersetshire, were +suddenly to come upon a naked black man striding along a leafy lane, +armed with spear and shield, and decked with strange adornments, +necklaces of human teeth, and such like, would they not in all +likelihood shriek for help, or giggle convulsively, or in some obtrusive +fashion display their amazement? Yet these African maidens, to whom I, +clothed where they are accustomed to utter nakedness, with aneroid +hanging round my neck, sketch-book under my arm, and gun in hand, +suddenly appear, merely give me a modest greeting and a shy look, and +quietly pursue their way. + +[Illustration: + + KILIMA-NJARO SEEN FROM ABOVE MOŠI (“PALMS AND SNOW”). + + To face page 152. +] + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 40.—Mkindu Palm. +] + +After a further ascent I arrive on the summit of a rounded hill which +considerably o’ertops its fellows for miles round, and offers views of +unexampled magnificence in all this lovely country. To the north, +without a single fleck of intervening cloud, rises Kilima-njaro, the +whole central ridge and both the peaks completely visible. The eye first +rests irresistibly on the splendid snowy dome of Kibô, absolute in +whiteness under the glare of the vertical sun, with a few faint purplish +blots, like the crater-shadows on the moon’s face, coming out where the +bare rock breaks through the snow, and then in the few hollows, gaps, or +_crevasses_, tender cool shadows of pale blue break somewhat the +dazzling effect of unsullied white. Below the snow-cap of Kibô lies a +great stretch of purple moorland broken up dimly into ravines, cliffs, +hillocks, and ridges by shadows of deeper tint, but seen with the eyes +half shut seeming a band of purple colour merging into a colder bluish +tint where it reaches the distant snow, and becoming darker and sombrer +where it mingles with the middle distance of dark-green forest. To the +left of Kibô, a rounded descent of the mountain-mass stretches down with +some few jags and modulations till it passes away into the far-off +plain, and to the right of the snowy dome a ridge nearly horizontal +reaches to the sister and minor peak, the jagged Kimawenzi, which has +merely patches and streaks of snow resting amid its strange black peaks +and pinnacles.[17] The background to the entire scene is a sky of +intense blue, which is almost free from cloud save for a few vapourous +cumuli lying behind the centre ridge of the mountain. In the middle +distance are grandly swelling, rolling hills, magnificently wooded with, +in some cases, a forest growth so uniform that, looked down on from a +height, its surface is like rich green velvet pile. Here and there, but +rarely, on the hill-sides there are open patches of land, covered with +short turf or bracken. These offer, by the side of the darker forest, +tracts of lovely grass-green colour, almost unrepresentable in pigment, +from the fact that in water-colours or oil there is no plain tint, or +combination of tints, that will exactly give it, or in which any +permanency can be hoped for. From the matrix of one or two of the nearer +hills springs gush forth and flow through ever deepening ravines with +musical clamour, though their course and their birthplace can only be +conjectured at a distance from the greater luxuriance of the forest +which they provoke. In the foreground I look upon the descending +northern slope of the great hill from whose summit this unexampled view +is obtained, and here there is an intricate mass of low forest, +principally composed of the Mkindu palm (belonging to the genus +_Phœnix_, a kind of wild date), mixed with indiscriminate shrubs, many +of them overgrown with parasitic cucurbits and loranthus. This palm is +the only member of the order I have ever found growing on the slopes of +Kilima-njaro. In the plains below there are several others, the _Hyphœne +thebaïca_, or branching palm; the “Mwale” (_Raphia vinifera_), and the +_Borassus flabelliformis_, but I have never seen any of these on the +mountain. + +Having worked industriously at my sketch, and shot three sun-birds which +were hovering round the teazle-like flowers of a labiate plant in my +vicinity, I now begin to think of returning homeward, for lunchtime is +approaching, and, besides, the monarch of mountains has begun to weary +of his condescension; he thinks I have stared at him enough, and he is +wreathing light fleecy clouds round his august features as a signal that +the interview is at an end. So I gather up my sketching materials, pop +the sun-birds into a roll of wadding in my _carnassière_, and stroll +homeward through the red lanes bordered with dracœnas, aloes, strychnia, +and bramble, the latter covered with delicious blackberries, and the +strychnia, which is semi-cultivated by the natives, with tiny yellow +fruit exactly resembling miniature oranges, though scarcely larger than +big peas. These are good to the taste, and, according to the natives, +wholesome to eat, though in some way I connect them with ideas of +poisons, and never largely indulge in their consumption. As I near my +settlement I hear a great clamour of tongues, and find a market is going +on in the vicinity of the Zanzibaris’ quarters. About thirty Wa-čaga are +there busy chaffering their goods for cloth and blue beads. The men are +all naked, excepting for a tiny cloak or mantle of dressed fur round +their shoulders. The women are principally clothed with thick bands of +beads, but they generally have a short leathern apron or petticoat. The +wares of these people consist principally of Indian corn, in the ripe +grain, and also green cobs; two or three kinds of beans and peas; flour +made from millet seed; tobacco in the leaf; honey; bananas, ripe and +unripe; calabashes of sour milk or rancid butter, and numbers of live +fowls. Perhaps on such a day as this I have purchased as many as eighty +fowls for one “hand” (about an ell) of cloth each (approximate value +2_d._ an ell). Or there may by chance be a goat or sheep for sale; but +this not often, as Mandara is supposed to own all the live-stock of the +country as personal property, although he gives many goats, sheep, and +cows to his subjects as presents, conditionally on their not being +parted with, so he himself is almost the exclusive dealer in live-stock. +I amuse myself by a little friendly chaffering before lunch, but leave +all serious purchases to my servants, for the natives invariably deceive +me when I wish to buy, either palming off old scraggy fowls, bad eggs, +and adulterated honey on my inexperience, or else charging me +extravagant prices. + +One little item may be noticed in this market which will show how +observant and practical the people are, and how they seize any lawful +means of making money. I have only resided here, let us suppose, some +few weeks, and yet the natives have noticed my fondness for eating +blackberries, a thing they never do themselves for some reason or other. +Consequently, without any hint from me, children have been sent by their +parents to collect industriously all the berries to be got, and here +they are, wrapped in banana-leaves, on sale for a trifle in cloth or +beads. Also many women have brought bundles of firewood, so neatly done +up and chopped into such handy logs that, although it seems superfluous +to buy it, when one man’s mission in the station is to collect nothing +else in the woods all day long, yet it is sold so cheaply, and is so +conveniently ready for use, that I often purchase it, and feel by so +doing that I am encouraging the enterprise and spirit of my black +neighbours. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 41.—Čaga Doorway. +] + +After lunch I sit for an hour or two skinning birds; then, when the +afternoon sun is declining, I set out for another ramble. Perhaps before +starting I sip a welcome cup of tea in the natural arbour behind my +house. Then taking my sketch-book, I wander forth in delicious +aimlessness, now stopping to sketch a distant view of Mandara’s village, +seen from the head of our ravine, now scrambling up a bracken-covered +hill-side in almost wild exuberance of spirits. “How happy life seems +here,” I stop and reflect to myself, as, my face all aglow with the +flush of exercise, I rest awhile, seated on some grassy mound at the +summit of the hill, and looking down on my busy settlement beneath, +where the men at work are so many ants creeping two and fro, my gardens +are green patches, and my houses might be the tiny habitations of leaves +and twigs which some species of ants are wont to construct. Whilst I am +gazing over this most varied prospect—over the tiny beginnings of a +colony on the hill below, over the many ridges of banana-covered hills +beyond, and further away the illimitable plains marked and patterned +like a carpet with patches of purple forest, streaks of yellow sand, red +hillocks, and pale green savannahs—a slight noise behind me attracts my +attention, and I look round to find a Čaga man regarding me with a +friendly grin, which exposes a row of filed and villainous teeth. It is +my milkman, he who supplies me every morning with an extra quantity of +milk which is needed for butter-making. A conversation ensues, wherein +neither understands the other to any extent, for I am as yet ignorant of +Ki-čaga, and my interlocutor knows no Swahili. However, he evidently +wants me to do something, for like a dog he will not leave me alone, but +keeps going on a little way along the path, and then looking back. So I +gather that he wishes me to accompany him. We soon arrive at the hedge +round a native compound, and, passing through the narrow triangular +doorway, girt about with living tree-trunks, and blocked, if need be, by +a rough-hewn massive plank, we enter a small yard wherein stand three +buildings. One is a neatlybuilt storehouse, raised on piles (as may be +seen in the illustration), and the other two beehive huts, surmounted +with peaks like hay-cocks; goats and fat-tailed sheep are feeding on the +pea-shucks which a woman, who is shelling peas, casts from time to time +on the ground; and fowls are busy picking in the several rubbish-heaps, +or kitchen-middens, which stand outside the doorway. Little surprise is +manifested at my entrance. Another woman comes out from the smaller +house, and stares for a short time at the unexpected arrival, but the +woman shelling peas scarcely looks up from her work. Invited by my Čaga +friend to make myself at home I sit on the only available seat, a +rough-hewn log cast on the ground, and commence a sketch of the scene +before me. The storehouse is rapidly drawn in, the doorway of another +dwelling is outlined, and I am just adventuring on a study of the seated +figure shelling peas when she divines my intention, rises indignantly, +and walks into her house. My host also seems a little uneasy, for the +people look upon Art as magic, and imagine drawings are made of things +and people for sorcerish reasons. However, I reassure him, put up my +sketch-book, and rise to go. This Čaga man is (and always was throughout +my stay) exceedingly amiable, and thinks perhaps this time that his +fears about magic have hurt my feelings, so he presses me to accept some +green ears of Indian corn, and together we go to the corn-field, outside +the compound, and cut some five or six cobs, which are tied together by +their sheaths and hung over my arm. Thus burdened, and taking a friendly +farewell, I descend the hill and walk back to my settlement. Here I find +two or three natives have come to see me, bearing several live monkeys +for sale. The poor creatures are tightly tied to forked sticks, and are +so bound with withes and strips of bast that they can only grind their +teeth in impotent rage. I do not really want them, as they are of a very +common species, but to encourage the people to search for and bring me +live things, I buy them for a small amount of cloth. Then the canines of +the savage males are docked, and the monkeys are tied round the hips +with leathern thongs fastened to tree-trunks, and then relieved of their +fetters and released. Whereon, of course, they career about at the +length of their tether, vainly hoping to escape. Strange to say, they +will all pause in their wild gyrations to eat bananas or other food that +is thrown to them. (In the night, however, all escape, by gnawing +resolutely through the leather bands which keep them in captivity.) + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 42.—Čaga Storehouse and Dwelling. +] + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 43.—The Captive. +] + +When the monkeys are disposed of there is still half an hour or so +before sunset, so I induce the natives to sit at my feet and instruct me +in their language. Ah! If my readers knew how difficult it is to collect +an accurate vocabulary they would be little disposed to blame travellers +from savage regions who return without linguistic information. Think how +you have to deal with people who have not the faintest conception of +what you are about, except that it somehow has to do with magic, and is +therefore not altogether lawful. You are without an interpreter, and can +only hold up objects at first, and imply, half by gesture, that you want +to know their names. Then as to more intricate questions, what weary +work it is to elicit information, and how delighted one feels when some +important doubt is solved, or a new explanation is unconsciously offered +of some puzzling phenomena. The language of Kilima-njaro (Ki-čaga) is +one of the Bantu group, which includes nearly all the African tongues +south of the Equator. It is one of the prefix-governed tongues, and the +forms of its various classes of prefixes are varying, but always show a +common ancestral origin. The utmost number of known prefixes is by some +computed at sixteen—by Bleek at eighteen, as he includes two +_pre_-positions, “ko” and “mo” (“to” and “in”) with the regular +prefixes. (See for further information, “Bantu Languages,” Chapter XX.) + +Now in the language under consideration all the sixteen classes of +prefix (except the twelfth) are represented, but some of them are much +altered from the typical form. My object is to obtain examples of them +all; but I want particularly to ascertain the form of the eighth prefix +(a plural one). Unfortunately I cannot ask any of my friends, “What is +your eighth prefix?” I should never be understood if I explained for a +hundred years. I have to get at it in some other way. “What is this?” I +ask, holding up a knife. “Ki-ošo,” they reply. “Just so,” I reflect, +“‘ki’ is the seventh prefix, and the plural must give the form of the +eighth.” “How do you say ‘many knives’?” I continue; “‘ki-ošo’ is _one_, +what is for many?” “_Šingi_” (many), they reply. “No, but many +_knives_?” “Šingi” is again repeated. Then I ask, “See, this is one +knife—_ki-ošo kimo_ (holding up one finger). What is for _two_ knives?” +(holding up two fingers). “Two fingers,” they reply, looking up very +much puzzled. Then in despair I send for another knife, and placing it +beside the original one again, ply them with a question. This only +elicits the word for “another;” but, at length, after many +disappointments, they are induced to say “‘Ši-ošo šivi’” (_two knives_), +which gives me “Ši-ošo” as the plural of “ki-ošo,” and consequently “ši” +is the form of the eighth prefix, and so on. But half an hour soon +exhausts their mental energies, and they are sent away with a present, +while I go to my dinner. + +My little table has been laid with a snowy cloth, and the lamp placed on +it spreads abroad its soft effulgence. My muddy boots are taken off, and +my servant slips my feet into a pair of red morocco slippers that nestle +into the skin rug just in front of my camp-chair. A pleasant book is +placed at my side, and the gloom of the night and its weird children—the +bats and the hawkmoths—are shut out by a heavy curtain, and I feel how +pleasant and easy it is, even in Africa, to create an atmosphere of +home. Here in three or four days my servants can build me a dwelling, +and I can furnish it so that when my door is closed and my thoughts +abstracted it needs an effort to realize that the wilderness lies +outside. + +When my dinner, a meal of three courses—soup, meat, and honey +dumplings—is finished, the cloth is cleared, the lamp trimmed, and the +door closed for the night. Then for two hours I sit and write my diary, +much in fact of what I am rewriting now. But at length my eyelids grow +heavy, I find my head nodding over the book, so I relax from my labours, +undress, and creep thankfully into my snug little bed. I feel as safe +and as much at home as in a well-appointed English inn. Only the +occasional wild laugh of a prowling hyena, slinking round our +settlement, or the distant booming roar of the hungry lion, recall to me +almost pleasantly, that I am lodging in the wilds of Africa. But slumber +soon intervenes, and thus ends, as far as consciousness is concerned, +what my diary has characterized as a “thoroughly happy day.” + +So passed with little variation my first few weeks in Moši; in planting, +building, scheming, sketching landscapes, skinning birds, and drying +wild flowers. No troubles as yet overcast my horizon, and if afterwards +I was harassed with anxious fears, and worried with intolerable +suspense, the memory of those darker days is overborne by the vivid +impression I retain of the first and brightest period of my sojourn on +Kilima-njaro. This I shall always remember as the most enjoyable time I +ever spent in Africa. + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + “TROUBLOUS TIMES.” + + +Hitherto I had lived like Robinson Crusoe, in happy ignorance of savage +and hostile neighbours. The only possible things of harm that I could +have anticipated in my lonely rambles would have been a crafty leopard, +pouncing on me from an overhanging bough, or the sudden onrush of a +solitary buffalo. But now I was metaphorically and actually to see the +footprints of my human foes imprinted in my favourite haunts. Whereas +before my rambles on the mountains had been merely bounded by the short +leisure time at my disposal, they were now to be circumscribed by the +ring of warlike enemies that surrounded us. I have already explained to +you the reason I selected Mandara’s kingdom as my base of operations on +Kilima-njaro. It was usually supposed, before my journey took place, +that he was the paramount ruler of the mountain states, and it was +thought that if I placed myself under Mandara’s protection I might range +free and undisturbed over the whole of this African Switzerland. In +this, however, a great mistake was made, because Mandara ruled over a +relatively small tract of land, and only up to 6000 feet in altitude. He +did _not_ command the shortest or any route to the higher regions near +the snow-peaks; and being at constant war with his neighbours, and his +little kingdom in a continued state of blockade, his protection, as far +as it influenced a peaceful residence on the upper slopes of the +mountain, was worse than useless. Unfortunately, too, Mandara had made +immediate use of the two or three barrels of gunpowder I had innocently +given him, and had further availed himself of the moral support which my +presence at his court afforded to wage a rash and unprovoked war on his +neighbours, and to rob them in various well-planned raids of their wives +and cattle, adding the latter to his herds and the former to his harem, +and checking their enraged pursuits with the lofty threats that, if they +dared to infringe the territory of Moši, “his” white man would pickle +them alive. Consequently, while I was so tranquilly and innocently +pursuing my quiet avocations, skinning birds, drying plants, building +houses, and cutting roads amid the ferny glades around my growing +settlement, far from the turmoil of war, and unconscious of the +perpetration of ill deeds, the unhappy people of Kirua, Kibôšo, and +Maraṅu were connecting the loss of their womankind and cows with my +advent in Čaga, and naturally vowing me a life-long hatred. In the +meantime my porters were returning from Taita with the rest of my goods, +and in due time approached the base of the mountain. As they journeyed +tranquilly one afternoon towards the frontier of Moši, and were +congratulating themselves that a short march the next day would bring +them to my settlement, their leader descried in the distance a body of +men moving cautiously amongst the brushwood. Fearing lest they were +Masai, he immediately made a forward rush for a camping-place close at +hand—in fact, the very same site, a little peninsula nearly surrounded +by a rivulet, where on the former journey lions had besieged us, as +described in Chapter IV. The noise of their quick movement attracted the +notice of the band of savages, who were evidently watching for the +passage of my men, and they ran hastily towards the river to intercept +the latter, thinking they were going to cross; but on arriving there +they found the twenty Zanzibaris drawn up on the “almost-island” with +their guns cocked and ready. The savages hesitated, and stopped to +parley. Seeing this my head-man, Kiongwe, resolved to delay their action +with conversation as far as possible till darkness should supervene and +put a temporary stoppage on warlike deeds, for, as no doubt all well +know, most Africans dread to fight at night. After a short silence the +leader of the enemy asked, in a hesitating way, “Who are you?” “We are +the servants of the white man who lives at Mandara’s,” proudly replied +Kiongwe. “Then you are bad men,” shrieked his interpellator with sudden +fury. “Your master has helped Makindara (Mandara) to attack us, and he +has given him strong medicine to make him conquer. Makindara has robbed +us of many things; now you shall pay. Give us all those goods you are +carrying, and return to Taveita; you shan’t pass by here.” Kiongwe was a +cunning man. He saw that it was well-nigh impossible for twenty +heavily-burdened men to force their way through an armed band of fifty, +so he prudently replied in conciliatory terms, “My master is not a bad +man; he has fought nobody, and knows nothing of Mandara’s wars. See, it +is now getting dark. Let us sleep here till dawn, then we will speak +again about this matter.” Whereupon he told the porters to cut boughs +from the surrounding trees and roughly hedge in the encampment, and to +gather firewood from around to make blazing watch-fires. The savages +meanwhile disposed themselves sullenly in a circle round the little +camp. Darkness fell. One by one the simple-minded enemy sank to sleep, +confident that their prey feared the night as they themselves did, and +would neither attack nor attempt to flee before the dawn. But Kiongwe +kept all his men awake, made the watch-fires blaze, then at midnight, +when his foes were snoring with sweet unanimity, he gave a stealthy word +of command, the men rose silently, hoisted their burthens on their +heads, clutched their guns, and one by one leaving the encampment, +picked their way like cautious cats amid the sleeping forms of the +besiegers. So, whether observed or not, they walked out into the +darkness unopposed, and if any of the enemy slept not, and saw them go, +his tongue was tied, and he dared not give the warning to his comrades, +for—who could tell?—perhaps, after all, they were not men but ghosts, +and none may fight with spirits in the enshrouding night. + +Kiongwe and his men stumbled along perseveringly for several hours, and +then, having put a good distance between themselves and their possible +pursuers, lay down to rest and wait for the dawn, for the last part of +their journey offered many obstacles in the darkness to burdened men. I +should have told you, in proper sequence, that soon after nightfall +Kiongwe had detached from the camp two lithe, active men, relieved them +of their burdens, and enjoined them to elude the enemy and make their +way speedily to my settlement, warn me of the state of affairs, and ask +for advice and assistance. Accordingly, as I was leisurely undressing +that night, at about eleven o’clock, having sat up unusually late to +write my diary, I heard knocks at the door, and men saying, “Hodi, +hodi?” (“Hodi” is a polite Swahili term, somewhat equivalent to “May I +come in?”) Virapan, my servant, opened and admitted Mabruki Majera and +Ali Masi, Kiongwe’s two messengers. They told me the news in hurried +gasps and with a little natural exaggeration. Amazed and indignant that +my men should be in danger from savages whom I had never knowingly +harmed, I hurried on my things, and, in my impetuosity, was about to +dash off with a few men to Kiongwe’s assistance. But the more prudent of +my followers counselled a wiser course. They represented that in the +dark night I might either lose my way or break my leg in some unseen +pitfall, or else tumble unprepared on the hidden enemy, who might +despatch me in the darkness without even the chance of knowing I was +white, and superior to the common run of men. At any rate, they advised +that we should first apprise Mandara of our predicament, and seek +counsel and assistance from him. Accordingly I immediately started for +Mandara’s, and had quite enough experience on the way of the +difficulties and dangers of a mountain track on a dark night to be +thankful I had followed my men’s advice, and not sought the foe under +these disadvantageous conditions. + +We found Mandara—I had sent a messenger on ahead—seated with a company +of his warriors under the large open shed in which he ordinarily +received visitors or transacted business. He looked rather blinky, +having but recently left his slumbers, but on my entry checked a huge +yawn, and beckoned me, with a wan smile, to take a seat by his side. His +warriors were squatting round blazing fires, stretching their hands to +the blaze, for it was a chilly night, and their shoulders twitched and +trembled with convulsive shivering. I stated the case to Mandara in, +perhaps, rather a theatrical manner, and informed him I intended to go +and seek my men at once and bring them back, whether the enemy objected +or not. “Who,” I concluded, “would dare to fight a white man?” Mandara +heard me with a quiet smile, and then, interrupting, said to my men, +“Your master is talking nonsense (upumbafu). How does he suppose he can +find his way to these men at night? Perhaps he will lose the road, and a +lion will kill him, or he may fall into the hands of the Wa-kibôšo, and +_they_ won’t be afraid to cut his throat. No, this is but a little +matter, and not worth the risking of a white man’s life. When the time +comes for your master to fight, he and I shall go to war side by side. +Now I will tell you what shall be done. I will send sixty of my soldiers +at once, and they shall take two of you with them to speak the Swahili +tongue to Kiongwe, otherwise he may mistake them for his enemies and +shoot. You shall go there with my men and bring the white man’s carriers +safely back.” There was so much good sense in what Mandara said that I +resolved to acquiesce, at any rate for the present, so I bade him +good-bye, left two of my men behind, and crept back along the uncertain +path to my demesne. As we went we saw the war-fires gleam out from hill +to hill, we heard the war-cry re-echoing from gorge to gorge, and on the +road we, from time to time, encountered swarthy naked forms hurrying to +the rendezvous. Some had started from their sleep and merely seized +their spears and shields, without waiting to don their martial costume, +and wives and children were running after them with plumes of Colobus +skin and carapace of kite’s feathers. All greeted us with hysteric +friendliness as they passed, and when I met band after band of warriors, +I could not help feeling thankful that they were friends, not foes. + +I returned home and slept till dawn; then, being awakened with the first +streaks of returning light, and finding that none of my men had arrived, +I hesitated no longer, armed myself and my few followers, and took the +road to the plains. After walking for some two hours I, who was in +front, saw the bushes in the distance moving and heard the low voices of +men. I was just preparing for a grim emergency and standing in the path, +revolver in hand, imagining it was the enemy I had to confront, when a +familiar face emerged from the scrub, I saw a burthen carried on the +head, and I at once knew it was my missing caravan approaching. I +greeted the foremost men affectionately, and passed on to the rear of +the little column, bidding the others hurry forward. There I found +Kiongwe, and he gave me a hasty account of his adventures. After +reposing a short time in a dry river-bed, they had arisen with the dawn, +and once more continued their march. Whilst we were talking, loud voices +were heard behind, and there appeared my two men, who had accompanied +Mandara’s soldiers, and who were now scurrying along with a few Moši men +following in a disorderly crowd. Directly they saw me they shrieked, +“Oh, master, run for your life; the Wa-šenzi (savages) are coming.” +However, I preserved, fortunately, a little presence of mind, otherwise +these injudicious men would have caused a regular panic, as my porters +were preparing to cast down their loads and flee. But with a few +peremptory words I rallied them, and we beat an orderly retreat just in +time. Soon after we had reached our little eyrie, wherein I felt so snug +and secure, we could hear the distant cries of the baffled and pursuing +enemy. It appeared that the sixty soldiers of Mandara, who had gone to +relieve my men, passed them on the road, and went on professing their +longing to exterminate the presumptuous foe; but no sooner did they come +within gunshot of the enemy, who had just awakened and begun to follow +the spoor of the fugitives, than the hardy warriors of Mandara took to +flight, and under these conditions my two men accompanying them wisely +followed their example. A hot pursuit ensued, from which we just +escaped, and the enemy, following Mandara’s flying men, was diverted +from our track and dashed along the road to Mandara’s capital. In the +vicinity, however, of their chief’s residence, inspired no doubt to +fight _pro aris et focis_, the men of Moši made a stand; they were +reinforced, and a desperate battle took place, in which the enemy was +ultimately worsted. But in the meantime Mandara’s neighbours on his +western and northern frontier, seeing his guards removed to combat the +invaders on the southern side, took advantage of the unprotected state +of this part of his kingdom, crossed the border, laid waste with fire +and sword, captured cattle and women, and indulged in sweet revenge for +many a former raid on their own homesteads. When we saw from our high +ridge the smoke rising from the burning villages of Western Moši, and +simultaneously heard the din of battle coming from the southern +frontier, we felt it was time to take a definite part in the conflict. +Should Mandara be crushed between two forces, and vanquished, we might +expect scant mercy from the victorious enemy. Accordingly, the chief of +Moši having sent a messenger asking for advice and ammunition, I +immediately armed twenty of my own men with Sniders and muzzle-loading +guns, took a barrel of powder, a box of cartridges, and a bag of +buckshot; and, _further, in view of an eventuality which I had often +anticipated even in England_, I packed a mysterious box with some of the +contents of a watertight case, and gave it to one of my men with the +strictest injunctions as to its careful porterage. + +As we wound along the hill-side towards Mandara’s we found the narrow +path choked with lowing kine and bleating goats. At the approach of war +and invasion the inhabitants of Moši were driving all their cattle to +Mandara’s fortress. Thither we also went our way. Ordinarily the chief +would pass his days in a circle of four or five beehive huts and open +sheds, surrounded by a low hedge of dracænas and exposed to view from +the village green; but in troublous times he withdrew to an +extraordinary fastness which merits a word or two of description. To the +south of these visible huts, which to an unsuspecting passer-by +constituted the entirety of Mandara’s town, rose a dense grove of +unusually fine bananas. The initiated who wished to approach the hidden +citadel wound through their cool green shade by circuitous paths, patent +to all at this time by the press of cattle that thronged them, and then +arrived at a stockade of living forest. The chief of Moši had girt about +his stronghold with a compact band of trees, dug up by the roots as +saplings and planted alive, so that with a year or two’s growth their +trunks had thickened and left no space between. Further, they were +planted in the outer works four deep, and, being alive and green, their +network of foliage masked the fortress with a living grove which would +not be set fire to with the same ease as a stockade of dead timber. One +small opening alone appeared, through which cattle could just be pushed, +and which, during a siege, was closed with heavy wooden doors and +guarded with the two small cannon Mandara possessed. We made our way +through the lowing herds of cattle, passed many minor bulwarks and +hedges, and at length arrived before a large building of wattle and +clay, shaped almost like a European house. Herein Mandara was sitting +with his wives and children, and, in strange contrast to his usual +majestic demeanour, seemed quite tremulous with fear. His western +borders were being devastated unopposed, and all his soldiers were +engaged in fierce battle on the southern side. I sat some while with +him, and assured him of my earnest co-operation and of our ultimate +invincibility. Then loud shouts began to sound nearer and nearer to the +tree-girt walls, and while his attendants rushed to inspect the +on-comers, Mandara clutched my hand and implored me not to leave him. +But he had no cause for further alarm. The shouting came from his own +victorious soldiers, who, after a desperate battle of several hours’ +duration, had succeeded in beating back the enemy’s invasion on the +southern frontier, and were now prepared, after quenching their thirst, +to go and avenge their slaughtered brethren on the west. This news made +Mandara a new man. He shook me by both hands, he laughed aloud, skipped +about, and then seizing his huge broad-bladed spear, he struck the +ground with its shaft, drew up his fine figure to its full height, and +strode about the compound with haughty mien and gleaming eye, the very +embodiment of a warrior chief, and very different to the almost lubberly +creature who a few minutes before had been well-nigh whimpering with +fear. + +Some of his soldiers who had just arrived wore the most extraordinary +war costumes, evidently designed to strike terror into their foes. Most +of them had, as a good foundation, plastered their skins with red ochre +and mutton fat, and on this had drawn, especially about the face, most +ludicrous designs in white—white rings round the eyes, or white spots on +their cheeks. This gave them a look like an English clown, with a dash +of the typical bogey that haunts the dream of every childhood. On their +heads were crescents made of ostrich feathers, or caps of the Colobus +monkey skin. This last-mentioned animal (_Colobus Gueresa, var. nov. +Caudatus_) also supplied them with mantles of long black and white fur, +and contributed the heavily plumed tails which these Čaga soldiers fixed +on to that portion of their body where tails should rightly appear if +man had not dispensed with such appendages. Some of the men wore thick +capes of kites’ feathers round the shoulders, and not a few had tied +round the head masks of ghastly ugliness, with a double face, looking +behind and before. They were all very excited about their exploits, and +many screamed out hysterically in high falsetto voices. One unusually +quiet man was pointed out to me as a great hero. It was said that, being +surprised collecting firewood in the forest, and attacked by three of +the enemy with spears and swords, he had succeeded in parrying their +blows with a wooden stake, had disarmed them, and killed them all three. + +Whilst we stood listening to this clamour two soldiers staggered in, a +ghastly sight, streaming with blood, though their wounds were not +serious, and they brought the news that Mandara’s brother, who was +defending the western frontier, was hard pressed by the enemy, and had +begun to retreat. At these serious tidings a silence fell on the +assembly. I then proposed to Mandara that I should start at once, and +try to give a decisive turn to the conflict against the Wa-Kibôšo. +Moreover, I had a certain plan in my mind that I was very anxious to +carry out. After a little deliberation our mode of procedure was +settled, and Mandara’s remaining soldiers, having quenched their thirst +with liberal draughts of banana-beer, which the women were constantly +brewing, now prepared to start once more for the fray. One body of about +a hundred started off under the command of Mandara’s chief captain, and +marched towards the north-west, hoping to take the enemy in flank, while +my little force, accompanied by some native guides and a few of +Mandara’s Swahilis, directed itself due west towards the smoking +villages. A very little experience showed me that I could not fight like +a Čaga man. When I had descended my seventh ravine and was preparing to +mount the eight escarpment along our route under a blazing sun, I +devoutly hoped the enemy might not be waiting for us at the top, +otherwise all that I could do would be to throw myself breathless and +perspiring at his feet, and let him do his worst. But although the enemy +was there when we reached the summit, he was harmless; that is to say, +we found nothing but dead bodies around us when we had scaled the +height, for by another turn in the fortune of war the Wa-Kibôšo were +once more retreating before Mandara’s forces. Stopping here to rest and +regain breath, I looked for the first time on the bodies of men slain in +war, and the sight was quite sufficiently bloody to appal the most +callous nature. The weapons which had effected the greatest slaughter in +the skirmish had been the great shovel-bladed spears made after the +fashion of the Masai. Though Mandara boasted so much of his guns, yet in +the hands of these untrained savages, who have no idea of aim, they were +almost innocuous weapons, whereas the spears used hand to hand inflicted +horrible wounds. Here were corpses disembowelled by a lunge and a twist +of the spear. Others had their backs literally carved open down the +spine. Most of the severed heads had probably been chopped off by the +short Roman swords which the Čaga soldiers carry. Hereabouts was quite a +typical field of carnage. In many places the ground was pappy with +oozing blood. In others little pools of gore were coagulating and caking +under the fierce sunlight. The tall blades of the trampled grass were +flecked and splashed with brown drops of the dried fluid. The place +looked and smelt like a shambles. Already the many hideous creatures +that make their living out of scenes of slaughter were swarming forth, +emboldened with the scent of blood. Great green flies buzzed over the +stark bodies of the slain, ants swarmed in myriads round the flakes of +gore, while, strange contrast! lovely butterflies, blue and black, gold +and black, metallic green and saffron yellow, paused intoxicated on the +blood-soaked ground, greedily sucking up the thickening, frothy liquid +with the enjoyment of ghouls. The neighbouring trees and bushes were +dotted with vultures and crows, only waiting our departure to fling +themselves on the feast. With a saddened and disgusted feeling I left +this scene, almost loathing friends and foes alike. Why, in the midst of +such superb scenery, with smiling plenty exhibited on every hand, could +these silly savages think of nothing but mutual extermination? It was +curious to look from the bloody field of battle to the great dazzling +snowy dome which rose above us to the north, immaculate, pure, and +freezing in its isolation, and then think that it, after all, was the +cause of all this trouble. If Kilima-njaro had not drawn me hither on +this quest, the people of Moši and Kibôšo would not have come to blows +on my behalf, and these poor mutilated corpses might still have been +live men in the prime of life, eating, drinking, laughing with their +wives and children. Must it be that I should walk through blood to reach +the snow? + +Once more the din of battle reached our ears. The enemy was again +engaged with the forefront of Mandara’s forces. We could see them +fighting amid the banana groves covering a distant slope, or at least we +could see the little puffs of white smoke which rose continually from +amongst the green maze of fronds, and hear the popping of guns and the +faint shouts and battle-cries. Over their heads soared grimly a flight +of vultures waiting for their coming repast. As we were seen marching to +the field of action, guns firing and flags flying, Mandara’s men pressed +on their enemies with renewed valour, encouraged by our approach, and +the disheartened Wa-kibôšo yielded and fled up the hill-side till they +reached the summit, where they turned and halted, met by reinforcements. +The men of Moši were too exhausted to follow, and when I had arrived on +the scene I found them crouching down at the foot of the hill, watching +their foes. Had the Wa-kibôšo now charged down the slope on us, whom +they greatly outnumbered, the consequences for our side might have been +disastrous; for Mandara’s weary men began to waver, and seemed to think +of going home and leaving me to settle the conflict, and my own men were +not only worn out with their previous night’s walk, but were further +tired by our long tramp to the field of battle. We should therefore have +been unfitted to withstand the impetuous rush of two or three hundred +men. However, the Wa-kibôšo were content to stand on the defensive. They +were curious and anxious to see what tactics the white man would follow, +with what new kind of sorcery he would war against them. The white man +was proposing meanwhile to a dissentient group of followers a grand +charge up the hill, which should carry the enemy’s positions, and drive +them off in headlong flight. Had he been backed up by the hundred and +twenty-one men around him, this plan would doubtless have ended in a +signal victory; but as no one except his Indian servant acceded to it, +he felt that under those circumstances a grand charge of two would lack +sufficient moral effect. During these deliberations the sun was sinking +below the purple mass of Mount Méru, and I resolved to fall back on a +rather fantastical method I had preconceived of scattering my enemies, +and striking effectual terror into their foolish hearts. I moved my men +on to the crown of a small hillock which faced the hill-top whereon the +ranks of Wa-kibôšo stood in savage array. Before darkness fell my men +had planted several stout poles on the summit of our hillock, and had +further erected a kind of rough platform of boughs, on which a few of +the leather capes of Mandara’s men were spread, to make a smooth +surface. Then I called for the mysterious case I had packed and brought +with me from my settlement. Only my servant, Virapan, understood the +nature of its contents, and as he drew forth white tubes and blue tubes, +and queer little tins, not only the men of Mandara believed that I was +about to practise sorcery of the first water, but even my own +matter-of-fact Zanzibaris fancied that something uncanny was about to +take place. As for the Wa-kibôšo I was just near enough to their +hill-top to catch every now and then the murmurs of their wonderment at +our actions. Quietly and expeditiously Virapan and Cephas cut a few thin +rods, and handed them to me to insert into the little extinguishers +attached to some of the larger tubes, which were then hung up through +staples to the upright posts. I laid out open tins of dusky powder on +the platform of boughs, I lighted in readiness my bull’s-eye lantern; in +short, not to weary the expectant reader longer, I made all the +necessary preparations for a grand display of fireworks. No sooner had +darkness set in than I blazed forth upon the astonished natives with +Bengal lights, red fire, Roman candles, serpent squibs, and lastly a +magnificent flight of rockets. The terrified Wa-kibôšo scarcely waited +to see the last of these. When the first rocket rose with a flaming +shower and a shrieking rush into the air, and then broke well over their +heads into a mass of blue and crimson falling meteors, our astounded +foes fled in dismay, and we found ourselves alone on the field, whence +we journeyed peacefully home by the light of a late rising moon. + +The next day we were all utterly prostrate with fatigue, and not in the +best of humours, although Mandara had sent us a fat ox wherewith to +feast and make merry. The fact was, he had accompanied his gift with +congratulations on my _tour de force_ of the day before, and a cool +request that I would proceed to follow up the advantage gained by an +invasion of the enemies’ territory, which I was to utterly harry and +devastate, and then hand over to Mandara’s keeping. In fact he would +have liked me to conquer all the states of Čaga for him on my own +responsibility. This I peremptorily declined to do. I explained to him +that I had only joined in the fight of the day before because my own men +and goods had been threatened, but that I had come to Kilima-njaro not +to make war on any one, but to go my own way in peace and confine myself +to the slaughter of the beasts of the field if I must kill anything. I +also let him know with unusual outspokenness that to an English mind his +policy of continually harrying the states of his neighbours in order to +supply the Arab caravans with slaves, was excessively distasteful, and +one which would inevitably lose him Sir John Kirk’s friendship. + +This reply rather took him by surprise, and for some days there was a +coolness between us. Then he sent for me and delivered a long speech, +which was certainly one of the cleverest and most casuistic I have ever +heard from the mouth of an African slave-dealer as an argument in favour +of selling men into slavery. The gist of it was:—“Here are people who +make war on me. I defend myself, and carry the war into their country, +as we did the other day. Very well, a number of prisoners are made. What +would you have me do with them? Slaughter them? No; that would be +displeasing to Erua (God). Return them to my enemies? Then they would +only take that as a sign of weakness, and attack me once more. +Distribute them among my own people on my own land? But my subjects +would themselves protest, and say, ‘If strangers are to occupy the soil, +where is the room for our children to cultivate?’ Then what can I do but +sell them to the Arabs?” I answered this by first describing to Mandara +(who probably was unaware of this other aspect) what the Arabs did with +the unhappy Wa-Čaga whom they purchased; how they made them labour in +the sugar-plantations on the coast; how they exported them to regions +across the sea, the nameless outrages inflicted on the youths and +maidens, and as I warmed to the subject his face grew sombre, and he +hung his head. Then I drew another picture. “See,” I said, “how silly is +war; who profits but the Arabs?[18] Yes,” I exclaimed, getting furious +as I thought of it, “it is you, you vile wretches,” pointing to his +Swahili parasites who sat sulkily by, “who are the curse of the country. +May God punish you in this world and the next! I, at any rate, warn you, +I will do my best to thwart your dealings; I will write to the Consul on +the coast and give your names, and stop your slave-convoys. So you had +better decamp and try fields where no white man is.” Then I turned to +Mandara and said, “Take my advice for once. Cast these men from your +country, and turn all your attention to legitimate trade. Make your +slaves cultivate your own plantations instead of the Arabs’. Supply the +caravans going and returning to and from Masai-land with food. You know +how gladly they will pay for it in goods and money (rupees). Thus you +will grow rich and still retain the Consul’s friendship. Above all, let +there be peace on the mountain. Make friends with Ki-bôšo, Ki-rua, and +Maraṅu, and then the white man as your friend may wander everywhere in +peace.” When I had finished, Mandara took me by both hands and said, +“Indeed you are speaking truth; I know it. Why do you not always come to +me and counsel me? If I have only these Swahili people to advise me, how +can I avoid doing wrong?” In this Mandara was right. I believe, as I +wrote to Sir John Kirk at the time, that I might have acquired a very +powerful and useful influence over Mandara’s mind had I made the +endeavour. It was such an advantage being able to talk with him direct, +and dispense with the nullifying influence of an interpreter. But at the +same time it was not my mission to meddle with the politics of +Kilima-njaro; I had been sent there to superintend the collecting of +scientific information and the necessary material for investigating the +fauna and flora of the snow-mountain, and not to redress the wrongs of +the suffering inhabitants. Only so far as they hindered or otherwise +affected my proper work could I exert any influence over local +chieftains. My employers had not placed funds at my disposal to suppress +slave-trading, or weld the states of Kilima-njaro into a confederation +against the Swahili traffickers in human flesh. I had, as it was, quite +sufficient difficulty in doing any natural history collecting at all, +for I had found my two collectors very idle and inefficient, and the +entire work, even in its most menial details, was soon to be thrown on +my hands without any outside help; consequently I was disinclined to +waste many hours of daylight in conversation with the chief of Moši, +interesting as he was to talk to. I therefore neglected to follow up the +decided advantage I had gained over Mandara’s conscience, and employed +the few peaceful days which followed the warlike movements I have just +described exclusively in skinning birds and drying plants. +Unfortunately, while thus engaged the Swahili courtiers, who now hated +me virulently, made every effort to regain their baneful influence over +Mandara’s vacillating mind. + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + AN ANXIOUS PERIOD. + + +Believing myself to be secure for the present in Mandara’s friendship, I +resolved without further delay to send eighteen of my thirty Zanzibaris +to Sir John Kirk at Zanzibar, whither they could carry my first +collections of the fauna and flora of Kilima-njaro, and my despatches +laying before him the then existing state of affairs. Moreover, inasmuch +as I found my paucity of men a great obstacle in pursuing my +investigations and an altogether false economy, I desired Kiongwe, my +head-man, who went in charge of this caravan, to recruit for me thirty +or forty stout fellows in Zanzibar and bring them back with him, +together with a further supply of necessary goods. + +Eighteen was a small number of men to send along the Pangani route to +Zanzibar, but fortunately, just as they were setting out on the journey, +Thomson’s friend, Jumba Kimemeta, arrived at Mandara’s (I am sorry to +say to purchase slaves[19]), and offered to escort them all the way to +the town of Pangani. I gladly accepted, but as the men were ready I did +not like to keep them hanging about idle in my settlement, so I sent +them on by themselves to Taveita to join Kimemeta there. Most fortunate +was it that I did so. Jumba Kimemeta started from Moši a day or two +afterwards, with the slaves purchased from Mandara. The Masai, knowing +this, lay in wait for him, attacked his caravan, routed it, and Jumba +only escaped by the skin of his teeth, losing slaves, oxen, and goods. +Had my men been with him, they would certainly have abandoned the +collections, and then nobody in England would have believed me when I +explained their loss. + +Kiongwe was supposed to occupy a fortnight in journeying to the coast, +the same time in returning, while his work in Zanzibar would hardly +oblige him to remain there longer than a week or ten days; consequently +in six weeks at the most I might expect his arrival in Moši with the +reinforcement of men and goods. + +Nevertheless it was with some presentiment of coming difficulties that I +bade him farewell on the morning of July 11th, and watched his little +band slowly wending their way out of my sight into the distant plain. +Yet he must be sent some time or other, and the present moment seemed +the most propitious. + +After he had gone and my band of men was reduced to twelve, including +all hands, trouble was not long in coming. My chief collector, Mabruki, +had begun to grow very exacting. He received nearly double the wages of +my invaluable Indian servant and considerably more than the other +Swahili porters. His food allowance was also specially increased, and he +might have had anything in reason for the asking: not that he was a good +collector—far from it—but then he was better than nobody and, moreover, +was a very fair shot with the rifle. He enjoyed, indeed, sallying out +into the lower country near the base of the mountain and stalking +antelopes, but this was not what I wanted him to do. I preferred that he +should go up the mountain and collect there. He soon began to grow +dissatisfied and became a continual grumbler. When Kiongwe was preparing +to go to the coast he asked leave to accompany him, pleading business of +his own to settle. I thought this utterly unreasonable, and knew the +excuse of private business was only meant to cover some other purpose. +At any rate, I reminded him of his contract and held him to it. This +only increased his sulkiness, and he began to listen to the suggestions +of Mandara’s Swahilis, who were trying actively to ruin me by causing +the desertion of my men. They persuaded Mabruki that if he left me and +entered Mandara’s service, he might become a great man. They pointed out +how lucrative the slave-trading business was, and how Mandara needed a +man like him to transact his business on the coast. Mabruki was won over +and only sought an excuse for breaking with me. It was not long in +coming. I found him one morning returning from Mandara’s town, when I +had sent him to a particular valley to collect. He had not a bird or a +flower to offer as an excuse. Nor did he try to excuse himself. When I +began to scold him, he said quietly, “That is enough; I don’t care for +this work, I have found something better to do: give me my food +allowance and let me return to the coast.” Like a simpleton, I believed +he intended to join Kiongwe, who had not long started, so I gave him +goods to buy food for a fortnight, lent him a gun and ammunition, paid +him the balance of his wages and let him go. The other collector, +Athmani, who was his slave, accompanied him. Having got out of me all he +could, he then turned his steps, not coastwards, but to Mandara’s court. +Here the Swahilis at once led him to the chief and said “Now, you +wouldn’t believe us when we told you this white man was bad; listen then +to what his own servants say.” Accordingly Mabruki and Athmani sat down +and told Mandara—not a string of falsehoods—but a number of inconvenient +truths so coloured with malicious interpretation as to be in Mandara’s +eyes the most damning of accusations. They revealed to him that I had a +beautiful elephant-gun (which had certainly been kept from Mandara’s +covetous gaze), and detailed, in fact, the entire contents of my +armoury—so many sporting guns, so many Sniders, cases of cartridges, +kegs of powder, bags of shot. They did not explain that these were +brought with a view to the slaughter of birds and beasts and for +purposes of just defence, but hinted that these weapons were intended to +overawe the chief of Moši and take possession of his country. “Well, +but,” interposed Mandara,[20] “how could he do that when I have 1000 +soldiers and he only ten?” “Don’t you understand?” the traitors replied; +“he has sent Kiongwe to Zanzibar to bring back many soldiers—” “Forty,” +interposed Mandara. “Ah, he _says_ forty to you, but how do you know +what he may not have written in the letters? No, now is the time to +crush him, before his reinforcements come.” “But the Baloza, what will +he say?” “How do you know whether the Baloza really sent him?” “Why, he +brought letters—” “Yes, and read them himself—none of your men can +read.” Mandara here produced the two epistles, and remarked that the +seal of the Consulate was on them. This rather baffled Mabruki, but +Athmani took another tone. “What does it matter if you _do_ take away +all his goods—he has broken faith with you, he has concealed from you +many of his possessions.” “Well, but if he fights for them and is +killed, what will the Baloza say then, when he sends to ask for his +news?” “Why, you will just answer that he has gone away to the Masai +country and you know no more of him. Who can contradict you?” “And the +Aruša-ruša (fireworks)?” “All harmless, children’s playthings.” + +Poor Mandara was racked with indecision. On the one hand the Swahili +courtiers had been poisoning his mind for days past by representing that +my views as to slavery and my displays of fireworks and other potent +magic had powerfully impressed the minds of the common people and had +seriously impaired Mandara’s authority; on the other hand, a remnant of +the friendly feeling I had once inspired still lingered in his mind. He +coveted my goods with all the intensity of his savage desires—think what +the possession of an elephant-gun would do to raise his prestige in the +eyes of the neighbouring chiefs!—and the European bed, so smart and +clean—and the silver forks and spoons—but no! I was his guest, I was the +sacred “mgeni,” the stranger-friend from whom nothing must be taken by +force, or God would be enraged. Still, why did I keep so many guns and +so much ammunition? _Was_ it for peaceful ends, or was the plea of sport +a hollow pretext? Was this white man black at heart after all? Did he +really intend to send for soldiers to Zanzibar that he might seize the +land and be master of it. Clearly it were better to get rid of him +quietly while he was weak and without supporters. No wrong should be +done, but the white man _must_ go. + +Accordingly, his deliberations not having been sweetened by the frequent +cups of tembo thrust on him by his insidious courtiers, he dictated a +preremptory message to me, which one of his soldiers was sent to +deliver. + +I was sitting, working tranquilly, in my little house that afternoon, +when the messenger of evil arrived. I had been going through some of +Mabruki’s recent work, and derived a melancholy satisfaction in finding +it so bad as to be useless. I reflected pleasantly that, though I should +have henceforth the sole charge of collecting, at least I should save +some forty rupees a month, and do the work better myself. Just then I +looked up, and saw Mandara’s man. “What does he want, Abdallah?” I asked +my servitor who ushered him in. “Oh, very bad news,” he replied in a low +tone, and then proceeded to interpret the message, for my men had made +greater progress in Ki-čaga than I at that time. + +“Mandara sends to the white man, who calls himself Child of the Baloza, +and says, ‘Now I know your heart is black, and you have deceived me. You +have shown me only a part of your possessions, and you kept concealed +from me many guns, and powder, and engines of war (_mi-tambo_). This you +did that you might take my country by surprise and kill me, and make +yourself chief in my stead. And they tell me you have sent to Unguǰa +(Zanzibar), not for forty men, but for an army. Now, therefore, I say to +you, you are a guest and I may not take anything from you by force; but +give me all your guns, and the big one for elephants, all your powder, +and all your bullets, and I will buy them at a fair price. Then I shall +know, if this is done, that you do not wish to fight me, and you may +remain. But if not, then I say, pack up all your goods and go, for I +know you are my enemy.’” This curious message was written down by +Abdallah in Swahili, in order that I might confront Mandara with his own +words, and ask if he acknowledged them. In the meantime I dismissed the +soldier, saying I would reply later on. Then, side by side with the +message of Mandara’s, I wrote an answer to the effect that the “Sultan” +of Moši was deceived by bad and designing men, that time would right me +in his opinion, and that meanwhile I would neither sell him a gun nor an +ounce of powder, nor would I leave his country until Kiongwe should +return. (How, indeed, could I do so, when I had ten porters and +fifty-eight loads?) In the evening, Virapan, Cephas, and Abdallah +repaired to Mandara’s court to communicate this reply. As usual he had +begun to vacillate, and now let himself be convinced that I had no +sinister intentions affecting his rule, but complained that the real +fault he found with me was my mean disposition. He took Cephas to his +stronghold, and showed him the clothes, guns, pistols, and patent +medicines he had received from Thomson; even curious relics—the gifts +that Baron Von der Decken had made to Mandara’s mother, and the articles +which had been wrung from poor Charles New. “Now,” he said, “what has +your white man given me to compare with these? Fine words, good advice +(_šauri_), tales about hens laying golden eggs. I don’t want always talk +and nothing else; I want him to show his friendship by gifts, as a white +man should. And as he is so fond of fables (_hadii_), remind him of the +one I told him when he first came here—say to him, ‘the tree is now +well-rooted and mature, and if it does not soon begin to bear fruit, I +shall cut it down.’” There was some amount of truth in Mandara’s +complaints. From his point of view I had not been generous. I had paid +scrupulously for everything, I had always sent Mandara the equivalent of +his presents of cattle or sheep in various trade goods, or bright, +shining, silver rupees. I had supplied him with many useful European +seeds, and had frittered away nearly all my stock of medicines on his +soldiers and wives, and on arriving I had given him the articles +mentioned in Chapter V.; but I _could_ not lavish cloth and beads on him +continually, as I had only enough to last me till Kiongwe’s return, and +must pay for my daily food in these commodities; and I _would_ not +supply him with guns and powder, now that I knew the use to which he put +them, viz. to procure the Arabs slaves. However, although he had no +claim on my generosity, I thought it well spent if a little money would +secure his friendship, so I offered to pay 1_l._ a month (an immense sum +in this part of the world, especially when it is represented by twelve +rupees) in the form of rent, for the land which he had given me as a +plantation. At first he was beside himself with joy when I conveyed this +proposal to him in person, and patted my back with affection; but no +sooner had I left him, rejoiced at his change of manner, than Mabruki +entered on the scene, sneered at the chief’s delight, and said the white +man had bags upon bags of rupees—he had seen them—and that it was as +easy for him to pay 100 monthly as 12. + +Mandara therefore sent word to me that he had consulted with his +advisers, and that he thought 100 rupees a month a reasonable rent for +the plantation (this plantation, be it noted, was a piece of wild, +uncultivated land given to me by Mandara on my arrival). To this +preposterous demand I returned the curt reply that he was talking +nonsense (_upumbafu_), and the matter dropped for a time. However, +shortly afterwards when I was out botanizing, a soldier of Mandara’s +came up and told me civilly but firmly, that I was not to pick any +flowers. I asked him what he meant, and he said those were the “Maṅge’s” +orders (Maṅge is the title given to Mandara), that I was to be followed +wherever I went, and prevented from collecting plants. I packed up the +specimens I had gathered and returned home, meaning to ask Mandara what +this meant. On my way I shot a little bird. The soldier at once ran +forward, picked it up, and took it, saying, “This is the Maṅge’s.” I +went to Mandara’s town, and desired to know what this hindrance meant. +He declined to see me, saying his heart was bitter that day, but sent +word to this effect—“All this land is mine, therefore all the flowers, +birds, butterflies, everything on it are mine also. If you can’t afford +the rent I ask, never mind, I have nothing more to say; but don’t rob me +of my property. If you want flowers, birds, or beasts, my slaves shall +collect them and sell them to you at a fair price; but if you go and +take any more without my leave, I will seize your goods.” Here was a +nice dilemma! I could not collect on Mandara’s territory without paying +an enormous tax, and I could not collect outside it without risking +death at the hands of his enemies. This was a difficulty in obtaining +specimens which would hardly have occurred to the consideration of the +scientific societies who sent me out to Kilima-njaro. Having provided +the funds, there seemed nothing simpler than to despatch some one to the +mountain to collect, and here I was, settled on Kilima-njaro, and yet +unable to touch a plant or an insect of those interesting regions around +me—at least unable in theory, and much thwarted in the practice, +although I still went stealthily to collect. + +One day soon after this fresh aggravation, Mandara (in whose utmost +naughtiness there was always a spice of fun) sent me a dirty old basket +full of vegetable refuse, with a message to the effect that I might add +this to my collections on the payment of a few ells of cloth. I kicked +the basket from one end of the settlement to the other, and said, “that +was the only answer,” at which rash act my men were appalled, but when +Mandara heard of it, he gave a hearty laugh. However, matters did not +improve. Failing to extort anything from me by force, Mandara tried +starvation and ordered all his people to abstain from selling me any +article of food. One or two men who were detected smuggling food into my +settlement at night were sold as slaves. Another man who was heard to +call me “Mangé Muzungu,” “White Chief,” was severely beaten as +conferring on me a title equal to Mandara’s. Nevertheless, I offered no +sign of yielding, for I knew that would be fatal—it would mean that +little by little everything would be taken from me, and I should be left +to return as New did, under similar circumstances, broken-hearted with +the thought of failure. Accordingly, though my milkman politely +intimated he would be unable to continue sending his daily supply, and +though children left off coming to me with blackberries, and the women +ceased to bring me ripe bananas, I cheerfully dispensed with butter, +cream, fruit puddings, and banana fritters, and when Mandara, curious as +to my state of mind, set spies to sound me, I expressed myself perfectly +happy and self-contained. Indeed, thanks to a little foresight, I had so +developed my plantations and my live-stock that I produced enough to +sustain us on the premises. But at heart I was miserable. The feeling of +utter impotence and of letting day by day slip by without anything +accomplished towards the fulfilment of my mission, nearly made me ill, +and if the climate had not been such a peculiarly fine one, I should +have worried myself into a fever. What I felt most cruelly was the +complete want of a sympathizer, of any one to whom I might unbend. All +through my difficulties I had to assume a nonchalant air and +light-hearted manner I was far from feeling, in order that my men should +not be unduly alarmed at Mandara’s threats. In the last days of July, +matters began to come to a crisis. Mandara had sent to me to say he was +about to make war again on Kibôšo, and desired me to furnish him with +ten men, well armed, and several kegs of powder. I answered that my men +had other work to do, that Mandara’s quarrels were his own business, +and, that I had no powder to give or sell. No immediate notice was taken +of this refusal, but a day or two afterwards it was brought to my +tyrant’s knowledge, first, that I was secretly purchasing stores of +food, and secondly, that I had been seen catching butterflies and +gathering plants in contravention of his orders. Accordingly he resolved +on a decided stroke to crush my resistance and frighten me into +compliance with his requests. + +One morning, the 30th of July, I was sitting at work in my house, when a +naked gentleman, with a broad-bladed shining spear and a monkey-skin +head-dress, strutted into our settlement with an easy nonchalance of +manner which made an evident impression on the Zanzibaris, for they did +not attempt to oppose his passage into my private compound, but allowed +him to enter unchallenged, and plant his spear into the ground with an +emphasis that made it quiver, and stand at ease in a conqueror’s _pose_. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 44.—A Soldier of Mandara’s. +] + +My temper had been already ruffled that morning. We had lost our +favourite milch goat in the night, carried off by hyenas; and I had +suddenly learned that the natives refused to sell milk, fowls, or other +provisions, in obedience to secret orders from their chief. Also—for +misfortunes never come singly—my servant had fallen sick, and my cook +had cut off his finger chopping wood. So when I looked up from my work, +skinning birds, that lent themselves badly to my taxidermist skill, and +saw the swarthy figure planted in front of my house, I wrathfully cried +out to my attendants, “What does this man want here, and why do you let +him in without telling me?” Abdallah came forward, and mildly questioned +the Čaga warrior as to his purpose. “Words from Mandara,” he laconically +replied, and then, the interpreter being summoned, proceeded to detail +the ultimatum of the chief—so many guns, barrels of powder, bags of +shot, tables, chairs, cups and saucers, knives, forks, and spoons to be +handed over at once, together with the greater part of my trade goods, +_or_—and then followed Mandara’s terrible threats of slaughter and +rapine. The purport of this speech I somewhat understood from the +occasional words and phrases of Ki-čaga that were familiar to me, and +any doubt as to the import of the threats which closed the message was +set aside by the man’s expressive gesture. When he came to talk of +killing, he drew the edge of his dexter finger across his throat, +severing in fancy his jugular vein. At the close of his speech the +Zanzibari interpreter repeated all that had been said, striving to +exaggerate as much as possible the gruesome nature of the threats and +the advisability of conceding everything asked for. But I had long since +decided that to yield to the “Sultan’s” demands would entail the loss of +all means of defence, of livelihood, and would be the ruin of the +expedition. Even if I succeeded in reaching the coast, it would mean +that I had failed in my attempt, and all this would be far worse than +the risk of assassination at Mandara’s hands, for I knew his moods +varied with his potations. So, affecting a calm manner which I did not +feel, I refused Mandara’s demands _in toto_. “Hatta sindano” (“Not even +a needle”), I added, taking one from my coat lappet and showing it. This +reply having been explained to the envoy, he withdrew stolidly to repeat +it to his master, and I was left alone with my men to discuss the +further proceedings to be taken. Of course only the leading men of the +caravan were consulted; the rank and file were supposed to be left in +ignorance of our danger, lest panic should seize them. They knew well +enough, however, having questioned the Čaga soldier, and now sat in a +melancholy group discussing the probability of having their throats cut, +and rueing openly the day that their ill fortune brought them to such a +country. However, I had finished my confabulations, and therefore +ordered the men to be about their work as if nothing had happened, or +was going to happen. One man was told to go and get firewood. He took an +axe, and reluctantly left the timorous group of gossipers, but behold! +he had scarcely got a hundred yards from the cleared ground of the +settlement, when we saw him turning about and hastily retracing his +steps, while from the brushwood and fern rose the glinting spears and +white head-dresses of Mandara’s soldiers. It was then, on going to +investigate, that I found we were regularly invested by an irregular +ring of armed warriors, who were squatted in the grass and fern, +without, however, any attempt at concealment. They had formed a cordon +which they intimated must not be broken until the demands of the “Mangé” +were satisfied. Though firm in their language they were not uncivil, and +were evidently only performing their duty. They were even respectful to +me personally, evidently assuming that a quarrel between the white man +and their chief was not their affair. We learned from them that Mandara +meant to try and starve us into submission, that he intended to place +these soldiers here to cut us off from all further food supplies. I +laughed at this. “What!” I asked, “does Mandara know I have eighty +fowls, a cow, a calf, four goats, and two sheep, beside a storehouse +crammed with grain and a garden full of vegetables? Say, how long can we +not live on those supplies, and does your chief intend to keep you here +for months?” They only shrugged their shoulders indifferently. “Theirs +not to reason why, Theirs but to do or die.” One man, however, suggested +that perhaps if my water supply were cut off at the river-head I might +not feel so comfortable. I then asked what the other Čaga people would +say, whom my little canal also supplied with water? Meanwhile my +message, with its decided refusal, had reached Mandara, and we could +from our height conjecture somewhat the effect produced. How anxiously +our gaze wandered over the intervening valley, and rested on the little +cluster of yellow beehive huts which masks Mandara’s capital! We had +seen the messenger enter the town, and after more than a quarter of an +hour’s interval he emerged alone, and once more took the winding +hill-path to our settlement. I was affecting to continue my work in my +hut, for it would not do to let either my own men or the natives +perceive that I was alarmed at the critical state of affairs, but as I +stooped over my bird-skins again I heard the clang of a spear-shaft +striking the hard ground, and again Mandara’s emissary stood before me. + +“The Mangé wants to see two of your men,” he said. + +“I will go myself,” I replied, getting my hat and stick. + +“No,” answered the envoy, “Mandara does not want to see the white man. +His heart is bitter. Send two of your servants.” + +After considerable parleying, for my men naturally felt that it was like +entering the lion’s den, Abdallah and another Zanzibari volunteered to +go on this dangerous errand. Accordingly they set out, secretly armed +with revolvers, and accompanied the soldier to Mandara’s town. Following +their progress with my opera-glass, I saw them enter the native +compound, and then ensued an anxious wait before they re-issued and made +their way alone back to Kitimbiriu. When they entered the settlement I +saw bad news painted on their lineaments, so I hurried them into my +house before they could communicate it to my quaking men. When they were +seated in the doorway of my dwelling, their dark bodies like silhouettes +against the flaming evening sky, they unfolded their ominous tale. + +When they had reached Mandara’s place, it seemed, they found him seated +among his councillors and captains in a quivering rage. His one eye +gleamed with anger, and his whole frame trembled with convulsive wrath. +Speaking slowly and distinctly, evidently trying to keep control over +himself, he told them that there was but one ruler in the country, and +that one he. It sufficed for him to send an order to the white man and +it must be instantly obeyed, or the throat of every man in the +settlement should be cut. “What,” he exclaimed, “do I care for his +Consul or his Queeny? Have I not a thousand soldiers? Go and tell him!” +The men crept away from the precincts of the irate monarch thoroughly +cowed, but they were not gone far before he sent to recall them. On +again entering his presence, Mandara assailed them with imprecations and +horrible threats, and dismissed them a second time, summoned them back +again, hurled at them hoarsely more vituperation, and finally bade them +hurry to my presence and inform me what they had heard. + +This they were in no way loth to do, fearing, indeed, for their lives in +this assemblage of warriors armed to the teeth, whom a word from their +chief would precipitate on any victim of his wrath. I suspected, even +when I heard their terrified account, that this scene was a good bit of +clever acting on Mandara’s part, meant to have its due effect on me by +the panic it should produce among my men. + +At any rate, as we sat in the gloom of the early night still discussing +our situation, my dinner untouched on the table, and, to judge from the +gleam of their watch-fires in the bush, the soldiers of Mandara still +encircling us, the prospect seemed a sufficiently sombre one. Nor did +the night bring a temporary truce to my anxieties. I found it difficult +to compose myself to sleep, for my brain was continually forming +projects for escaping secretly from Mandara’s country, and yet carrying +away somehow my fifty-eight loads of goods; a well-nigh impossible feat +to accomplish with ten men. Every sudden noise from the bush, the +anxious whispers from my watching men, the distant blowing of a horn, or +firing of a gun made me start from bed wide-awake and expecting a +midnight attack from the savages. And when towards dawn I found a short +forgetfulness in fitful dozing, it was but to awake on a morrow of +similar anxiety. + +However, the tension was fortunately relieved by an unexpected and +unintentional ally. The Wa-kibôso, whom Mandara had been recently +raiding, had routed his armies with considerable slaughter—he confessed +to the loss of 100 men, about ten per cent. of his entire force—and had +further sent a bombastic message to the effect that they were about to +arrive in Moši, with the intention of burning, harrying, robbing, +slaying everything in their way. Mandara therefore desired in such +contingency the moral support of the white man’s friendship and +co-operation. All the soldiers were naturally withdrawn from the +blockade of my settlement, I was once more at liberty to go forth and +botanize, and no restrictions were placed in the way of my purchasing +food. However, I was too angry with Mandara for what he had made me +suffer to respond very cordially to his advances. I refused to +co-operate in the defence of Moši, and said I would keep all my powder +and ammunition for the safeguarding of my own settlement. Of course the +Wa-kibôšo stopped short at the frontier on this occasion. I premised +they would from the fact that they had sent to say they were coming. +But, nevertheless, they had evidently inflicted a severe blow on +Mandara’s strength, and one which for a long time kept him quiet. +Gradually my relations with him began to improve. His people were so +decidedly my friends, that he was forced, despotic monarch though he +was, to come over to their opinion. They declared my coming had brought +wealth to them all. I bought all their products and paid for them +honestly. No man could ever accuse me of an unjust or unfriendly act. +When they were sick, they came for medicine, and were never denied.[21] +In short Mandara was compelled by popular opinion to own he had treated +me badly, and as a sign of this, he resumed friendly relations by paying +me a state visit in my “town.” Here he gossiped to his heart’s content, +and peered like an inquisitive child into all the recesses of my house. +It was the first time he had visited me since I had begun building, and +he was amazed at the progress made. Then he asked to see all my +“wonderful things,” and on the whole behaved very well, asking for +nothing. At length, after uneasily fidgeting on his chair, he said +hurriedly, “And now bring out your elephant-gun; I _must_ see it.” All +my men looked scared; now I was going to be fleeced. “_Must_ you see it, +Mandara?” I asked, gravely looking in his face. “No,” said the poor +savage, with a sudden effort to control his covetousness, “I will _not_ +see it. Do not show it to me, lest I should desire it.” + +Really, why I made such a fuss about this elephant-gun seems hard to +understand, for it turned out a useless and burdensome weapon, +unreliable for greater distances than twenty yards, but in those days it +seemed to us to sum up all the question of our resistance to Mandara’s +encroachments. We felt if we yielded the elephant-gun we should never be +able to make a stand on anything else, and then everything would go, and +we might be stripped as New was. However, on the occasion of this visit, +I did my best to be gracious, and opened a bottle of champagne—with some +trepidation, imagining Mandara would insist on the rest of the dozen—and +a tin of cocoanut biscuits. However, the champagne created but a poor +impression—I think it was too dry for his palate—while on the other +hand, he simply tucked the tin of biscuits under his arm and walked off +with it, enraptured with the first one he had scrunched. After this day, +although we sometimes disputed about commercial transactions (which were +always unprofitable to me, and only a disguised form of tribute to +Mandara), we never had another quarrel, and I had complete liberty of +action in Moši. Alas! this was after all but an extended durance—a +prison, though a spacious and lovely one. In vain I yearned for some +means of crossing the barrier of foes which intervened between me and my +goal, the snow-peaks of Kilima-njaro! + + + + + CHAPTER X. + A TRIP TO TAVEITA. + + +Throughout this period of anxiety, so monotonously related in the last +chapter, I had held to one fixed resolve, to quit Moši when Kiongwe +returned. Mandara’s hostility had nothing to do with it. I never looked +upon _that_ as any real obstacle in my path. It was rather that Mandara, +whether friendly or otherwise, was comparatively powerless to aid me in +my ascent of the higher regions of Kilima-njaro, just as he would have +been powerless to prevent it had I established myself with his enemies. +The upper road to the snow-peaks lay in the hands of the hostile league +of Kibôšo, Kirua, and Maraṅu, who blockaded the western, northern, and +eastern frontiers of Moši. All Mandara’s power lay to the south. He was +intimately allied with the Masai of Kisongo and Aruša, and they aided +him in keeping open his southern border. This very fact, however, had to +enter into my calculations. Mandara was very potent with the Masai; they +paid him constant consultative visits. On one occasion, when he was in a +good humour, he sent for me and introduced me to his robber allies, +telling them he wished that they should see my face, and know it as one +of his greatest friends, who must never be assaulted. + +In all my rambles to and fro between Moši and Taveita, though I might be +unaccompanied by more than half a dozen men, I was never interfered with +by the Masai, whereas I used constantly to hear of their attacking other +caravans; and whenever they did so, Mandara was generally in collusion. +Consequently I knew that if I attempted to quit his kingdom against his +will or without his leave, he had but to signal to the Masai, and they +would effectually bring me to ruin. + +Another difficulty I had to deal with was the question of my baggage. I +had fifty-eight loads stored at Moši, and ten porters. Kiongwe would be +coming from the coast with some sixty carriers, but they would nearly +all of them bring burthens; consequently on their arrival in Moši I +should be unable to carry off the loads already stored there. The only +solution would be to stop the new caravan at Taveita, leave ten men +there with the fresh supply of goods, and let the rest come on +empty-handed to Moši. Then I could take leave of Mandara somehow, and +carry off all my loads, whereas, if I departed from Moši leaving +property behind, and then made friends with Mandara’s enemies, he would +probably seize my belongings in revenge for this act of faithlessness. + +How could we let Kiongwe know of my change of intentions? If I sent a +messenger to Taveita, Mandara’s spies would be sure to report what was +taking place, and set him on the scent of my little plot. The only plan +was to go myself to Taveita, because then I could more easily explain my +intentions to Kiongwe. According to our calculations he should be due +there about the 22nd of August at the latest; so I determined to leave +Kitimbiriu on the 18th. Mandara’s consent was obtained, and besides +sending two of his soldiers with me, he accorded his protection to my +settlement during my absence. Here, though I only left one man in +charge, I felt perfectly confident in Mandara’s rectitude. Strange +combination of qualities, both good and bad, was the nature of Moši’s +sovereign! While he could see no harm in bullying, frightening, worrying +his guest into yielding up his goods, yet he would never _take_ anything +by force, although he had merely to stretch out his hand to do so. + +I looked forward to my Taveita trip as the prisoner does to his quitting +gaol, or as a pent-up toiler in towns must to his annual holiday in the +country. Every effort I had recently made to wander beyond the borders +of Moši up the mountain had been resolutely prevented by the Wa-Kibôšo; +in fact, on the 11th of August we nearly lost our lives in an ambush. +Every flower I gathered in the debatable ground was snatched with +trepidation and a wary look all round, and I feared to fire my gun at +any bird lest it should attract the attention of my hidden foes. +Consequently the idea of leaving Moši on the south and going for a +holiday trip to Taveita was full of pleasant possibilities, and proved +as interesting in reality as in anticipation. Leaving Kitimbiriu on the +18th, my eight porters and I walked gaily down the path up which we had +toiled, some nine or ten weeks before, on our entry into Moši. By noon +we had reached the pretty little Mkuyuni river, associated with several +of our adventures. Here the lions had besieged us, and here Kiongwe had +taken refuge from the savages. Now I found its banks peaceful and +deserted, although we had just missed a large troop of elephants, who +must have crossed in the morning. Many bristles from their tails still +hung in the bushes, dragged out, I suppose, as they switched them to and +fro. As we were to lunch here I left the part of the stream where the +elephants had trampled the banks and sullied the water, and crept +through the bushes to a charming secluded bend of the rivulet, where, +seated in deepest shade, I could gaze at a vista of sunlit vegetation +beyond. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 45.—The Mkuyuni Stream. +] + +Having rested here, we marched on to the Mto wa Habari, another old +camping-place (see Chapter IV.), and the next morning entered the +glorious forests of Taveita. Here we found the Swahili town a mere waste +and open place strewn with ashes. The Wataveita had burnt it down, +according to their habit, when the caravan season was over and the +traders had gone. This is their invariable custom, for which they give +various reasons, the real one being probably that they do not wish the +coast people to gain a permanent footing there. As far as I was +concerned, they welcomed me with enthusiastic delight, and reminded me +of my promise to build a house in their midst. I told them I had on the +present occasion only come for a few days, to await my caravan, but that +I wanted a large piece of ground in a secluded part of their territory +where I might ultimately make a “town,” in which to store my goods. They +led me to a beautiful site, close to where Thomson had built when he +sojourned there on his way to Masai-land. Not a vestige of his +habitation remained other than the oral tradition of its situation. +Possibly, of the fine little colony I started there may be little to see +now, for although I bought the land I could not promise to occupy it, +and the absentee system is not in favour at Taveita. + +This place, from the day of my first arrival up to the time of my final +departure, seemed to me one of the loveliest spots on the earth’s +surface. Imagine first a charming river of crystal clearness winding in +curves and loops through tropical forest of such an imposing grandeur +that it rather recalls to one’s imagination the vegetation of some more +lusty epoch of the earth’s youth than the present degenerate days of +less exuberant growth. The river flows sometimes between high +banks—little cliffs of red soil—crested with gigantic trees, whose +enormous roots, detached from the crumbling earth, stretch out like +grey, sprawling fingers high in air above the rushing water; sometimes +curls itself wantonly in loops, cutting out sweet little peninsulas of +forest-clad mounds and hillocks, on which one longs to go and build a +little hut and live for ever; sometimes flows solemnly and slowly with +glassy look amid winding avenues of palms, acacias, albizzias, +sterculias, parinariums, sycamores, and wild bananas, through the +stately architecture of a vegetable Venice. + +Here are places where the river broadens out into shallows, and the +banks slope down in turfy lawns or stretches of sparkling sand to the +water’s edge; there you may emerge from your bath on natural quays of +smooth and polished stone, most grateful to the naked feet that shrink +from gritty pebbles or thorny, prickly, tangled weeds. + +The River Lumi, which flows through Taveita and creates all its +luxuriant forest, is uninhabited by noxious creatures, such as +crocodiles or leeches, and only harbours harmless fish, that are good to +eat, or great timid varanus lizards, who never interfere with one’s +bathing. Its water is exquisitely cool, clear, and sweet, and comes from +the snows of Kilima-njaro. + +Here and there amid the lofty aisles of the Taveitan forest are little +clearings, pretty homesteads of yellow beehive huts, neat plots of +cultivated ground, groves of emerald-green bananas, which are the +habitations of the happy Arcadians who have made this tropical paradise +their home. They were once miserable refugees who sought asylum and +concealment in the impenetrable forest which even now girds their colony +with a belt of closely growing trunks and thickly inter-knitted mesh of +creeping stems. In this leafy labyrinth they were screened from the +outside world they dreaded—from the cruel pursuits of the raiding Masai. +On the few occasions when these robbers have tried to penetrate the maze +of forest, the Taveitans, knowing its turns and windings better than the +dwellers in the open, have gained a fierce victory over their +assailants. Now they dwell in safety, and their little republic is the +favourite resort of not only the coast traders, who leave their wives +here when they enter the dangerous Masai country, but of all the hunted, +homeless fugitives from Čaga, from Taita, and from Ukambani. Though +there is thus great intermixture of race, the original language of the +Wa-taveita holds its ground and is the general tongue of the community. +Swahili is known to most of the inhabitants, who mix a great deal with +the coast traders, and Masai is also spoken and understood, because the +Masai who once harried the Wa-taveita so cruelly, now come peacefully to +trade, exchanging their ivory, oxen, and asses for vegetable food, for +trade goods, and for honey—of which the Taveita people obtain great +quantities from their bees. Moreover, there is a fairly large colony of +about two or three thousand agricultural Masai (called Wa-kwavi by the +coast people) settled at Kikoro, a southern extension of Taveita. This +is a most interesting locality for a student of African races to settle +in. It resembles Stanley Pool on the Congo, Dondo on the Quanza, Khartūm +on the Nile, and such like emporiums of trade; a rendezvous of tribes, +tongues, peoples, and nations. You may sit here in the porch of your +comfortable thatched house, which may be built in a few days from the +materials at hand, and receive visits from representatives of most of +the nations found in East Central Africa. Arabs, Gallas, Masai, A-kamba, +Wa-čaga, Wa-pare, Wa-taita, Wa-gweno, Wa-swahili, Wa-sambara; the people +of Kavisondo on the Victoria Nyanza, of Bu-ganda, and Bu-nyoro; of +Njemps, and Samburu, all find their way to Taveita somehow, whether as +slaves, traders, tramps, criminals, or refugees. You may hear about +twenty African languages talked around you, and, by searching among the +slave caravans which stop here for repose, a list of hundreds of East +African tongues might be composed. + +Yet, though it is so hospitable to all comers, there is no lack of law +and order. Taveita is ruled over by a senate of notables called the +“Wazēē,” or elders. These functionaries, though usually in the +background, generally come forward when there is any dispute to be +settled either between their fellow-citizens or foreign traders, and +their authority is upheld by all the able-bodied male population of +Taveita. It was from them that I obtained my cession of land, and after +the fee was handed over and the agreement ratified, I had no more bother +and no more asking for presents. At all times their gentle behaviour and +kindly manners were charming. + +Although the settlement of Taveita contains in all perhaps some 6000 of +every nationality, they are scattered so widely over the domain that one +lot of huts is scarcely in view of another. Each family lives apart. At +night, strange to say, lions, leopards, and hyenas parade the forest +alleys, without check or hindrance. The hyenas dig up the newly-buried +corpses and discuss them with horrid laughs, just outside the doors of +the surviving relatives, who never intervene. The natives shut up their +live-stock in houses similar to their own, and consequently do not lose +many by the leopards; but I, being ignorant of the rapacity of these +brutes, lost at one time several sheep and goats, for the leopards would +leap high palisades and jump back again, carrying away their victim. I +set a trap, and killed one in the act, and another was shot by the men. +Night after night lions would roar and bellow, seemingly just a few +yards from our enclosure. Yet, though I have heard of losses in +live-stock, I never was told that any human being fell a victim to these +carnivora, though from the number of slaves tied together and allowed to +sleep in the bush, outside the camps, I should think such a disaster not +uncommon. + +Taveita is full of monkeys. They are to be seen in nearly every big +tree, and chatter and mow at you from the branches. Great baboons are +plentiful a little farther from the dwellings, on the borders of the +forest. Many big varanus lizards, sometimes reaching six feet in length, +frequent the forest near the river. + +Food in Taveita is moderately plentiful and reasonable in price, though +not so very cheap as in Čaga. Fish, both from the River Lumi and from +Lake ǰipé, is good and plentiful. Bananas are of fine quality, but dear. +Corn and vegetables are also relatively expensive and scarce. + +One great treat for the visitor to Taveita during the months of June, +July, and August are the ostrich eggs which are brought in from the +outside country, where ostriches abound. In September and October these +are over, and the natives bring you instead young ostriches which they +have captured—bristly little creatures with scale-tipped plumes—and sell +them for an ell of cloth each (about twopence in value). + +Finding Kiongwe did not arrive, after five or six days’ waiting, I +returned once more to Moši. Both my departure from Taveita and my +arrival at Kitimbiriu were signalized by many kind acts on the part of +my black friends. As we wound our way through the tortuous paths of the +Taveitan forest, our acquaintances rushed from their homesteads to +inquire the cause of our departure. “You are not going to leave us, +Muzungu?” they cried; “promise you will return.” “Yes, I promise,” was +my reply; then they pressed on my acceptance fowls, goats, bananas, and +gourds of new milk for the journey. Again, when we arrived at +Kitimbiriu, Mandara sent a messenger with many “salaams” and +congratulations, and a little “kitowéo” or “relish” for my breakfast, in +the shape of two big goats. The Čaga people of the vicinity all came to +shake hands, although I had only been absent a week. One man was so +delighted to see me (it was my milkman, and I daresay he had missed my +custom), that he spat[22] repeatedly at the sun to thank the Almighty +for my safe return. However, rather to Mandara’s disappointment—for now +that we were friends he wanted me to sit and gossip all day—I returned, +to Taveita again on the 28th of August, as much in the interests of +natural history as anything, because failing an ascent of the mountain, +there was no better hunting-ground than the Taveitan forests, especially +for birds. + +The pleasure of returning to this most interesting place was a little +clouded by finding Kiongwe still not arrived, although he was nearly a +fortnight overdue; but knowing that nothing comes in Africa from useless +worrying, I settled down to pleasant work, resolved to resign myself to +the inevitable dilatoriness of a Swahili caravan. As soon as it was +known that we had returned, many friends came with offerings of milk, +fowls, bananas, and fish. One man, a great stately savage, innocently +naked, and a type of perfect physical development, wanted me to visit +him at his house, so I went thither with my Indian servant. Round his +little compound was a kind of fence formed of the long midribs of the +Mwale palm laid lengthways. There were three houses inside, one for the +women, one for the goats and sheep, and one for the man. His dwelling, +though small, was far from uncomfortable, and the interior was +remarkable for the neatness that characterizes the domestic arrangements +of most Africans. There was a raised daïs for the bed, on which skins +were laid; a little three-cornered stool to sit on; afire burning in the +centre of the floor; spears, knives, horns of animals, and many other +articles ranged to dry round the walls. At the man’s earnest request we +partook of sour milk and sugar-cane. He also wished us to try some +rather dirty half-fried fish, but this I was obliged to decline. Whilst +I sat talking to him, his wife, a motherly-looking soul, appeared, +leading a small, rather unhealthy child, and was further followed by a +genial old hag, my friend’s mother. This latter was a merry, social old +body, though very monkey-like as she sat and chewed sugar-cane, holding +it before her with both hands, and gnawing it laterally with her teeth, +while the farther end of the cane was clutched between her lean thighs. +My host caught his child to him with unmistakable parental affection. He +carefully pinched and pressed the great protruded stomach, as if +divining this to be an unhealthy symptom. Seeing he was anxious and +wishing to say something kind, I offered to send medicine, which in the +Swahili tongue is expressed by an Arab word “dawa.” But he only replied, +“Dawa, what do we know of dawa?” Then he looked up to the sky in quite a +simple way and said, “Perhaps Muungu will cure him? who knows?—the other +one died.” “Then you had another child?” I asked. “Yes,” he said, “but +Muungu took it.” He looked again at his child, and seeing its eyes were +flecked with mucus he cleaned them with great sucking kisses. At length +I rose, and said in a roundabout way I had better be going. He put the +child from him with a sigh, and rose and followed me to my camp, +carrying a present of bananas. + +About this time numbers of Wa-taita from the districts of Bura were +flocking to the vicinity of Taveita in search of subsistence. A terrible +famine raged throughout the countries bordering on the Zanzibar littoral +in the year 1884. Many—far more than we can calculate—died of +starvation, multitudes sold themselves and their children into willing +slavery, not caring where they went or how they worked, provided only +they were fed. This scarcity of food had not affected those happy +regions lying within the beneficent influence of the great Snow +Mountain. Here the gentle showers condensed around the lofty peaks never +failed, and consequently the fruitful soil produced its due supply of +crops. Food could scarcely have been cheaper anywhere in the world than +in Čaga, where a man might live comfortably on the expenditure of +twopence-worth of cloth a day. But in Taveita, where only sufficient +land was cultivated to supply the wants of the residents, provisions +were already becoming relatively dear, owing to the unprecedented demand +from the influx of coast people, who were afraid of penetrating the +mysterious wilds of Čaga. The Wa-taita who had arrived in Taveita, +seeking food, were consequently hard put to it at first to find a +subsistence, and many of them had taken to hunting the big game in the +vicinity of the forest country. They went out all night and concealed +themselves in the branches of trees overhanging the well-known +drinking-places of the animals. Thence they discharged their arrows and +lances into the body of a buffalo or rhinoceros. The wounded animal was +long in dying, and sometimes lions intervened and carried him off. +Sometimes the Wa-taita kept up a running fight, as it were, till the +late morning, harassing the wounded quarry with their dog-like pursuit +until it fell exhausted with loss of blood and fatigue. Then they threw +themselves on its dead body, skinned it, cut it up, had a glorious feast +on the half-cooked flesh, which they grilled on hot stones in hastily +made fires, and brought the remainder into Taveita to sell or exchange +for vegetable food. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 46.—Vultarine attitudes. +] + +Some of these gentry offered to take me one day to a good place in which +to shoot game. Soon after dawn I went, under their guidance, first +through the belt of magnificent forest which engirdles Taveita, and then +emerged on a tract of country similar in aspect to all the dry, bushy +plains in Africa. Footprints of game began to show themselves, nearly +always, however, in beaten tracks and runs converging towards the +distant river. The spoor of rhinoceros, buffalo, zebra, giraffe, +warthog, lion, and many antelopes was distinctly visible, and on the +leafless trees great vultures perched in somnolent satiety. So heavy +were they with their recent meal, and so evidently unused to man, that I +was able to approach as close as I pleased to them, and very much +disgusted the Taita guides by taking out my sketch-book to draw some of +their attitudes, which I did with as much ease as if I had been studying +them in a cage at Regent’s Park. Unfortunately, I am more of an artist +than a sportsman. In many a spot the fragments of bones and the trodden +herbage, together with the surrounding footprints, showed that a lion +had recently feasted off his prey. In one such place I saw, to my great +surprise, a human being slinking away as I approached. I called out to +my guides to know who that was, and they explained to me that certain +hungry creatures—human hyenas—unable to procure the death of any wild +animals for themselves, followed the lions wherever they went; and when +the king of beasts had killed his prey, slaked his appetite, and walked +off to drink, they intervened and carried off the remains of his bloody +repast. “And does the lion never return and kill them?” I asked. “Will a +gorged vulture fly, or a full lion attack a man?” they replied +contemptuously. In spite of all this evidence as to the abundance of big +game, I actually saw but little, for the morning was now advanced, and +the animals had retreated from the hot sun into dense cover. I might, +perhaps, have had better sport had I behaved more like a sportsman; but +I would tramp along unconcernedly and chatter to my guides, consequently +I often heard a warning whistle and snort from the antelopes we were +tracking, and they were off before I could fire. I managed, however, to +bring down a Mpala[23] antelope, and I wounded a warthog, but he got +away in the dense bush. I killed some francolin and pigeon with my +shot-gun, and at any rate the commissariat did not suffer from my +morning’s outing. I found the meat of the Mpala very dry and +unpalatable, but it was enjoyed by my men and the Wa-taita. + +Hearing so constantly from these people of the fine sport to be got at +night (we had a moon about this time) and at earliest dawn, I resolved +to go and live for a day or two in the wilderness outside Taveita, so +that I might be on the spot, and not fatigue myself with a long +preliminary tramp to the scene of operations. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 47.—The Mpala Antelope (_Æpyceros Melampus_). +] + +We followed the course of the River Lumi—_our_ river as we +affectionately called it—in a northerly direction, for about three +miles. We had quitted the great forest in which Taveita is built, and +except for the band of noble trees through which the river flowed, there +were only low scattered bushes covering the plain. This was emphatically +_the_ game country of Africa, and wherever you find this kind of +landscape, no matter in what part of the tropical continent, you may be +sure it is inhabited by the big African herbivora. We pitched the tent +in a snug little corner by the river-side, a kind of peninsula +surrounded on three sides by the water, and secured from outward view by +bushes and trees. I spent most of the day roaming about with a gun, but +only killed a zebra (_Equus Chapmani_), which had, however, a very +handsome hide. A great deal of game was visible from the summit of the +little cone, rising on the left bank of the river, but it was evidently +very wary, owing to the recent inroads of Taita and Kamba hunters. + +It was at night, however, that I hoped to bring down a good bag, by +concealing myself at the river-side, and shooting the animals as they +came to drink. The banks of the Lumi were, as already mentioned, clothed +with a narrow band of dense forest. Here and there gaps had been formed +in the dense array of trees, and through these the thirsty, animals had +made a broad way down to the water. The ground would be pounded into red +dust, all turf or vegetation destroyed, and even the tree-trunks on +either side of the tunnel—for such it was through the dense +wood—polished up to a certain height by the passage of crowds of great +hustling beasts. Such a place as this, there was no mistaking. That it +had been recently frequented we could tell by the abundance of fresh +exuviæ strewing the entrance; moreover, here were bones, skulls, horns, +and other fragments of the lions’ repasts, which, however thoroughly +they might have been picked by hyenas, vultures, and ants, still to the +practised eyes of our guides showed by their condition that some few +hours ago they formed part of living individuals. + +[Illustration: + + THE GAME COUNTRY. + + To face page 220. +] + +Here I resolved, therefore, to conceal myself after dark, with my gun +and plenty of ammunition, and my imagination pictured with delight +scenes after the fashion of Gordon Cummings’s tales. The best mode of +lying in ambush was much disputed. I at first was in favour of making a +kind of “skarm,” a low pit just deep enough to hold my body, with a +fringe of thorny branches round it as a cover. But this, for various +reasons, did not meet with the approval of my men. Firstly, we found, on +digging just below the soil, that water filtered into the pit, which +would render it disagreeable to stand or sit in; and, secondly, it was +my guide’s opinion that wounded or angry beasts might just walk in on +top of me. Consequently we adopted the notion of the Wa-taita, which on +the whole was best, namely, to construct a platform between the branches +of the trees overhanging the “run,” about ten feet above it. + +This was carried out toward the end of the afternoon, and in the +evening, having comfortably dined and taken my coffee in camp, I took +leave of my men, and was hoisted up on to the platform, together with an +8-bore elephant-gun, a bag of ammunition, a rug, matches, a bull’s-eye +lantern, and a flask of cold coffee. Two Wa-taita mounted neighbouring +trees, settled down in the forked branches, and we were left to commence +our night vigil. My camp was only a quarter of a mile distant, and I was +quite safe from any wild beasts except leopards or snakes, neither of +which were likely to attack me. + +Surely, I thought to myself, there could be no pleasanter way of +shooting big game than this. Instead of tramping miles and miles through +thorns and over sharp rocks, under a blazing sun, in search of a +vigilant quarry, here you await him in numbers, seated at your ease, in +the cool night air, able to take careful aim, and safe from any nasty +display of spite on the part of your wounded victims. Undoubtedly my +opinion was the right one from an epicurean point of view, provided that +all the elements of the combination were present; but just as the best +place in a theatre would be worthless in front of an empty stage, so all +my elaborate preparations for a grand battue of big game were of little +use when the expected animals did not arrive. + +Slowly the night wore on. The moon, just past her prime, rose late, and +changed gradually from a coppery red to a yellow white as she mounted +higher and higher, bringing by degrees a lesser day to bear upon the +scene. Gazing out from under the branches to the open plain, I could +distinguish ghostly forms, devoid of colour and substantiality, flitting +here and there, objectless and restless—hyenas, probably, seeking stray +fragments of carrion. Now and then the singing, monotonous chorus of the +cicadas and tree-frogs was momentarily interrupted and again resumed, or +varied by the shrill chanting of a soloist, or temporarily overborne by +the faint, distant booming of a lion’s roar; otherwise nothing +interrupted the solemn quietude of the night. + +Half sitting, half reclining on my tree-perch, my limbs soon stiffened +with the unchanged posture, and I grew chilly with inaction. The night +breeze blowing over the snows of Kilima-njaro sent tremors of cold +through my body; I sought a more comfortable position, and a better +arrangement of my rug. In doing so a slight creaking and rustling of the +boughs was caused, and I was startled to hear from the other side of the +water a sudden outbreak of strange, half-human cries—screams, barks, and +guttural murmurs. Looking in that direction I was able to make out a +small party of baboons, who had come down to drink, and evidently +mistook the stealthy noises I had made for the approach of their +relentless enemy, the leopard. Though they peered uneasily into the +gloom, and did not turn at once to run, I would not shoot, because I did +not wish to frighten more important game that might be approaching; and, +moreover, because, except for scientific purposes, I think it is so sad +to kill a monkey. To see a baboon in its death-throes causes me almost +as much pain as if he were a member of my own species. + +However, my forbearance was not duly rewarded. A few small things, +probably civets, cats, or jackals, crept noiselessly to the waterside +and drank uneasily, but I held my hand, deeming it mockery to blow them +to fragments with an elephant’s bullet. Here and there in the open a +large form seemed to hesitate about passing through the tunnel where I +was concealed, and I always waited, unwilling to risk an uncertain aim +and a distant shot for the hope of certain slaughter when they should +defile past my lair. But they came not, and disappeared into the outer +gloom. What _was_ the reason? I asked myself. They could not see me +behind my screen of boughs, and I sat long in noiseless immobility. The +fact that they divined the presence of a human being by scent never +entered my head, and I forgot that the wind blew from me towards them, +and carried to their powers of smell sufficient evidence to deter them +from approaching any nearer a suspicious spot. Yet I knew that this +drinking-place had been much frequented the previous night, and I could +now hear a mingled chorus of animal cries from distant bends of the +river, showing that the thirsty creatures of the wilds had come to +satisfy their thirst. I consulted in a whisper with, the Taita hunters +as to the advisability of leaving our perch and seeking game on foot, +but they were strongly averse to this procedure, and persisted in +saying, “Wait, and they will surely come.” But they surely did not, and +as soon as the first promise of dawn irradiated the sky I indignantly +left my platform and wandered out into the dewy plains, seeking a +victim. A giddy zebra, browsing on the sodden turf, stopped behind his +friends to stare at me, and received a bullet from the mighty 8-bore, +which soon laid him low. I also killed a female roan antelope, and so +returned less discontented to my camp than I might otherwise have felt +at my uneventful night, for at any rate here was abundant meat for the +men. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 49.—Female Roan Antelope (_Hippotragus Equinus_, ♀︎). +] + +At the end of the succeeding day my sporting picnic was interrupted by +the arrival of messengers from Mandara, who bore a strongly worded +communication in writing, to the effect that I was to return at once to +Moši, as Mandara had some important news to communicate. Wondering who +among the chiefs followers had suddenly attained epistolary skill, and +grumbling at the somewhat dictatorial tone of the command, I +nevertheless deemed it advisable to comply, the more so as Kiongwe’s +inexplicable absence made me averse to risking a loss of Mandara’s +friendship. I left behind two trusted followers, Abdallah and Kadu +Stanley, in my Taveita settlement, with the fullest instructions as to +their procedure in case Kiongwe came during my absence, and then once +more quitting my favourite place of sojourn, I turned my steps towards +Moši with an anxious heart. + +Arrived at Mandara’s court, however, an unexpectedly pleasant reception +awaited me. It appeared that a large Swahili caravan had reached Moši +during my absence in Taveita, and its leader happened to be a trader of +some position on the coast. He had seen me in Zanzibar the day I went to +visit the Sultan with Sir John Kirk, and consequently conceived an +exaggerated, but useful opinion as to my relative importance in the +scale of humanity. He questioned Mandara as to my welfare and +whereabouts with an _empressement_ and evident interest which did much +to endue that chieftain with a loftier opinion as to the social position +of his guest. Finding his Swahili friend was a scholar, he resolved to +set at rest his last doubts in the authenticity of my statements, and +accordingly brought out the two letters of Sir John Kirk which I had +presented as an introduction, and asked to have them read. When their +contents were made known to him he was seized with compunction and +apprehension at the way in which he had previously thwarted my mission. +A passage in Sir John Kirk’s long communication to the effect that he +hoped Mandara would aid me to the utmost in ascending Kilima-njaro awoke +the chief to a sense of his neglected duty. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 50.—My Settlement at Taveita. +] + +Without further delay I must be recalled from Taveita and sent up the +mountain before the failure of my mission could be reported to the +Baloza. Accordingly, messengers were despatched at once to Taveita, and +as soon as I had obeyed their summons and presented myself at my +tyrant’s court, Mandara hastened to describe the elucidation of his +doubts which had taken place, and assured me now of his sincere wish to +render me help and counsel. “Did I wish to ascend the great mountain? I +should go to-morrow, that very next day, and climb as far as I chose, +even to the white ‘salt’ which covered the top. He would send guides and +soldiers to accompany me.” I was at first too surprised at this change +of demeanour to realize the happy change in my prospects, but when +Mandara kept repeating, as he patted my hand encouragingly, “To-morrow, +you shall go to-morrow,” it began to dawn on me that it was a serious +proposal, and I accepted eagerly and began to discuss the details of the +expedition. Nine of my own men would be taken and six soldiers of +Mandara’s to act as guides. “You had better not defer your journey,” +said the chief, “lest the Wa-kibôšo get wind of it and intercept you.” +It was arranged I should not be absent more than a week, and that the +guides should receive four yards of cloth each, to buy food for their +sojourn on the chilly heights. Mandara presented me with a couple of +goats as a contribution towards our commissariat, and took leave of me +with continued wishes for my success and a sincere hope of my safe +return. I repaired to my settlement, full of joyful anticipation, +commenced packing, and slaughtered a bullock, so that every one might +have a good preliminary feast before entering on the anxious journey of +the morrow. Mandara’s six men, one of whom was Kilaki, an old friend and +constant frequenter of my “town,” came to receive their “cloth” and +their instructions. I adjured them not to keep me waiting on the morrow, +and then sent them off that they might have time to bid their families +farewell and make their investments in food. When preparation had been +made, and everything packed save the necessaries of our civilized +existence, which might be thrust into the bags before starting, I +retired to rest, but slept little, so feverishly anxious was I to +commence my first ascent of Kilima-njaro. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + A FIRST ASCENT. + + +Faithful to their promise, Mandara’s five soldiers, led by Kilaki, +arrived in our settlement at sunrise. They brought with them bags of +provisions, and three fat sheep, which were to constitute a further +supply of food, and one which would obligingly transport itself to the +desired goal. + +Leaving Faraǰi, the cook, alone in charge of Kitimbiriu, we commenced +our ascent by following the upper road skirting the crest of our long +hill. We walked first between tall hedges of glossy-leaved dracænas and +gorgeous scarlet-flowered aloes, which grew from tall stems in +arborescent form. As we passed the wooden doorways of the different +congeries of huts which border these Čaga lanes the inhabitants rushed +out mirthfully to greet us. “Utoṅga ako, Maṅge Muzungu?” (Where are you +going, white chief?) they cried. “Ngatoṅga Kibô” (I am going to Kibô) I +joyfully answered. (Kibô is the giant summit of the mass.) From each +little tidy compound of Wa-čaga, from their trim fields and luxuriant +plantations, came merry girls, their arms linked together +affectionately, and accompanied by their brothers, fathers, and +husbands, all in perfect nudity and all in smiling good-humour. They +would range themselves along the sides of the narrow lane, backing, with +much giggling, into the fern-fronds and brambles as I approached, and +saluting my followers with many outspoken remarks as to their personal +appearance and the errand on which they were bound. In the rear of the +small company came the six soldiers of Mandara, wearing conspicuously +the white cloths I had given them, and loaded with their shields, arms, +and water-gourds. They urged along the upward path the three docile and +unsuspecting sheep, which were to serve as their stock of provisions +during our residence above the clouds. At about 5400 feet we quitted the +last signs of cultivation, and consequently missed the familiar runnels +of water which in the inhabited country intersect the land every few +yards. The surrounding scenery was now charmingly soft and pretty, so +exactly like Devonshire hills and coombes in general aspect that I need +not give it a more detailed description. At 6000 feet we halted for a +brief rest. The ascent had been very gradual. Here, where we first +rested, there were grassy downs of short springy turf scattered over +with magnificent clumps of forest; but higher up the woodland scenery, +though very pretty and “English” in look, did not offer remarkably fine +timber, the trees being short and twisted with dense undergrowth. The +wild flowers were beautiful. Parasitic begonias trailed their lovely +pink bells in long festoons; magenta-coloured balsams gleamed from among +the fern-fronds, and every now and then we would come across clumps of +crimson and salmon-tinted gladioli that provoked expressions of +admiration even from my followers, whose eyes were caught with the rich +displays of colour. The tree-trunks, even to the minor branches, were +densely hung with moss, orchilla-lichen, or delicate epiphytic ferns. +Other species of ferns grew luxuriantly at the side of the path, some of +them actually British in their extended range. There were polypodies, +holly ferns, bracken, maidenhair, identical apparently—I have since +found at Kew they were actually the same—with those we know in England. +Unfamiliar, though, to our English scenes were the magnificent +tree-ferns (of the species _Lonchitis pubescens_), which rose grandly +above the dense undergrowth, with fronds of a shiny bluish-green, +whenever the pale green light of the forest fell athwart their downy +leaflets or silky stems. At a greater altitude than 8000 feet these +tree-ferns were rarely met with; indeed, they were mostly confined to a +zone round the mountain between 7000 feet and 8000 feet above sea-level. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 51.—Tree Fern (_Lonchitis pubescens_). +] + +Our path was very wet with the moisture that dripped from the forest, +and often obstructed with huge tree-trunks that lay across it. It was +one of a series of tracks which converge from the different little +kingdoms on the mountain up to a height of about 9000 feet odd, where +they join a path running nearly due east and west from Šira to Useri. As +the inhabitants of the Kilima-njaro States are nearly always at war with +one another, and, consequently, have not free transit through the +hostile territory of their neighbours, they all resort, by means of the +upward road, to the neutral ground above, and at varying heights above +the inhabited district pursue their journey round the mountain. They do +not always do so peacefully, however, as it is the disagreeable custom +of the mountaineers to post themselves occasionally in ambush at the +cross-roads and leap out on any passing travellers too weak to resist +them, in which case the men are killed and the women are carried off in +triumph as slaves. As we were few in number, though presumably stout of +heart, our guides were very nervous during this ascent, and often paused +to listen anxiously to the murmurs of the forest, fearing to detect the +voices of their foes. Our conversation was held in a low tone, and my +servant, Virapan, who incautiously gave way to a peal of laughter when +amused by some incident on the route, was angrily checked by Kilaki, +Mandara’s captain, and told that he was risking the lives of the party. +However, throughout this day’s journey we heard nothing more alarming +than the occasional trumpeting of elephants or the mocking cry of the +blue-green touraco. + +[Illustration: + + KILIMA-NJARO, SHOWING BOTH ITS SNOW-CAPPED PEAKS. + + To face page 234. +] + +Owing to the absence of any drinking-water on our road ever since the +last streamlet we had crossed in Moši, we scarcely stopped anywhere to +rest until reaching our camping-place, at a height of 8600 feet. Here we +found a little rivulet flowing silently over mossy rocks, and forming +clear, deep pools every few yards. The water was icy cold. Above the +stream the path led us to a slight clearing in the forest, where we saw +a few rotting huts and wind shelters. “These,” said Mandara’s men, “we +made when we came to fight against Useri. We slept here, halfway.” My +men were enjoined by the Wa-čaga not to make any noise that might +attract the attention of enemies in the vicinity; they even objected to +our lighting big fires, in case the curling smoke might betray our +presence; but at this I became impatient, preferring to risk the chance +of a scuffle with the Wa-kibôšo to suffering from cold. Already, as the +sun was setting, the temperature rapidly sank, and the air became very +chilly, while a white rime settled on the grass. The forest and the +surrounding vegetation were weirdly strange. Giant heaths of the +familiar genus _Erica_ grew unfamiliarly as tallish trees. An +extraordinary composite plant (since named from my specimens _Senecio +Johnstoni_) flourished in the marshy ground near the rivulet and rose to +twenty feet in height. From a distance it appeared something like a +banana, with huge broad leaves at the summit of a slim, bare, black +trunk, but with yellow flowers like a groundsel—a humble plant, to which +indeed, it is not distantly allied. “Everlasting flowers,” of tender +rosy pink or yellow-white, grew in clusters where the forest was less +dense, and pretty star-like anemones, blush-colour with yellow centres, +sprang up like pale stars amid the dusky herbage. Things that resembled +chervil and hemlock grew in rank abundance, and the crimson gladioli +gleamed out vividly on all sides. There were also pretty irises and +ground orchids of a rich mauve-pink. Altogether, although the flora was +different from that at lower levels, it lost nothing in brilliancy of +colours. The men rapidly constructed wind shelters of branches, lit +roaring fires, and wrapped themselves in their scanty garments to resist +the increasing cold. The Čaga soldiers killed two of their sheep +recklessly, thinking nothing of economizing their food, and distributed +some of the meat among my men, offering me a really choice leg of +mutton. All through the night the tree-hyraxes kept us awake with their +ringing plaintive cry. After a long discussion the next morning, I +decided to move our permanent camp higher up the mountain, so that I +might be nearer the field of my researches, and also for the reason that +the men of Mandara continually dreaded an attack from their enemies, and +would not allow us to fire our guns at any bird or beast, fearing lest +the shots might reveal our existence. On reaching a height of 9000 feet +the continuous forest came to an end, and we emerged on tracts of +tussocky grass, interspersed here and there in parklike fashion with +clumps of trees. We were now on a kind of level table or shelf, which +stretched away round the southern slope of the mountain, and from which +the great central mass (the ridge culminating in the two peaks of Kibô +and Kimawenzi) arose with a somewhat abrupt ascent. In the hollows of +this further range there were clumps of forest up to 10,000 feet. Many +bright-coloured flowers grew up to this altitude, notably a vivid blue +cynoglossum (houndstongue), mauve and blue irises, and pink, waxy-white, +and yellow “everlastings.” Tufts of artemisia (southernwood) grew in +sheltered places. There were many heaths, a small kind of geranium, huge +proteas, and divers ferns and mosses. The foliage of the trees was +rather a dull grey-green, and their boughs and trunks were rendered +almost shapeless by the thick tapestry of moss and orchilla-lichen. A +black and white raven was frequently seen sailing overhead, two or three +white butterflies flitted about, and a small grey moth hovered over the +grass. A little lizard, nearly dull uniform black, with faint markings, +darted to and fro in the herbage, pursuing the drowsy-looking flies that +settled on the grass-blades in the sun. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 53.—A Raven soaring. +] + +Whilst my men were preparing lunch under the shade of a stunted tree I +made a rapid excursion upwards to collect some plants, and then returned +to my followers about noon. I had just got out my theodolite to take +some observations of the different peaks in sight, and had finished +“screwing up” the levels, when a cry from my men behind caused me to +look up. In the distance, coming from the west, a large band of +Wa-kibôšo—our most bitter foes—were to be seen approaching at a round +trot, covering themselves with their shields and waving their spears in +the air. I had just time to form my little force of sixteen men into a +square, and awaited with anxious heart the onset. Fortunately, in the +middle of their charge the Wa-kibôšo stopped short. There, between us +and them, unheeded by me, stood my theodolite, poised on its tripod +stand, with its levels, doubtless, as well adjusted as when I had +previously left it. This harmless instrument had filled the Wa-kibôšo +with sudden dread. It was, no doubt, considered some engine of sorcery +so powerful that I needed but to place it between myself and my foes, +and I could then await their onslaught with equanimity. The Wa-kibôšo, +therefore, paused, their war-cry ceased, they gazed uneasily at the +theodolite, and, to my intense relief, slowly withdrew to a neighbouring +hillock, from the top of which they watched our proceedings. After a +quarter of an hour of immobility on either side the Wa-kibôšo suddenly +left their post of observation at a gentle run, and disappeared into the +forest below. I had a short deliberation with my men, who insisted on at +once returning to Mandara’s country, alleging that the Wa-kibôšo would +return in greater numbers and cut off our communications below, thus +severing us from our food supplies. I then suggested that, instead of +returning direct to Moši, we should continue our exploration of the +mountain and then descend through Useri on the plains below, and thus +reach Taveita. This also was overruled, and, perhaps, wisely, as the +people of Useri were equally hostile to Mandara with the Wa-kibôšo, and +would possibly have massacred our little band of sixteen men had we +tried to pass through their country. Finally, I resolved to take the +advice of Mandara’s soldiers, and return to our settlement at once, +without further delay. We therefore re-entered the forest, and passed +our old camping-place of the night before, where we saw the print of +many feet, from which we concluded that the Wa-kibôšo must have come +here just after our departure, have discovered our route, and followed +our tracks up the mountain. We were discussing this question and +leisurely continuing the descent, when one of our guides stopped, +commanded silence, and listened intently. I naturally did the same, and +heard a faint ringing cry behind us. We looked at one another with +serious faces and said “The Wa-kibôšo!” Evidently they had rediscovered +our track, and were announcing it to their more distant comrades. An +unreasoning panic seized my people. They started off in a headlong +flight down the mountain, and for some time I feared the men might cast +away their loads and lose my collections, but fortunately they clung to +their burthens as Swahili porters do even “in extremis.” At length I +felt I could no longer keep up such a rapid descent over slippery +tree-trunks and glissades of mud. I had already nearly broken my leg and +effectually barked my shins, so I called repeatedly on the foremost men +of our party to stop, and we journeyed for a little while at a more +reasonable pace. Soon, however, we had another fright. Those who were in +front came to a sudden halt, cried out, and fell back in confusion. +“What is it?” I asked, panting. “The Wa-kibôšo,” gasped my men, and sure +enough, up the steep descent of the narrow path we could descry white +head-dresses and gleaming spears approaching. This time we no longer +made the least stand. The cook, Cephas, attempted to fly, slipped, and +fell into a ditch; others crept into the bush and hid; and I myself, too +utterly sick and exhausted to offer any resistance, sat down by the +wayside and awaited my fate. There was a hush, a whisper rising into a +shout, and then a sudden glad cry from my reassured followers, “Watu wa +Mandara! Watu wa Mandara” (Mandara’s people). I rose to my feet and +greeted the captain of the force with the usual Čaga salutation, “Mbuïa” +(friend). He informed me that Mandara had feared a difficulty with the +people of Kibôšo, and had sent 200 soldiers to escort us back. After +this last scare nothing further happened to cause us further anxiety. +Mandara’s soldiers went along their course behind us, and had a skirmish +with the Wa-kibôšo to cover our retreat, and we eventually reached our +settlement of Kitimbiriu thoroughly exhausted with our day’s adventures, +but feeling quite happy at once more coming “home.” + +Mandara sent the next day his congratulations on my safe return, and a +fine goat wherewith to make merry. As I had almost given up the hope of +ever seeing my caravan from the coast—they were six weeks overdue, and I +imagined them annihilated by the Masai—I felt very uncertain as to my +chances of withdrawing from Mandara’s country, and consequently +congratulated myself on the improved relations subsisting between myself +and that chief. I now devoted myself entirely to natural history studies +and researches into the habits and customs of the Wa-čaga, and the +peculiarities of their interesting dialect. The days slipped by most +pleasantly, I ate and drank of the best, for my kitchen-garden yielded +me almost every well-known kind of vegetable in abundance, and the +native markets supplied such cheap and varied provisions that I scarcely +had cause to regret the exhaustion of my European stores. In short, I +was now resigned apparently to a long isolation on Kilima-njaro, without +any present hope of reopening communication with the coast, when, one +day—in fact on the 22nd of September—while I was working at my +collections of plants in the late afternoon, and preparing to clear the +table for dinner to be laid, two men, breathless and speechless, emerged +from the steep ascent on the eastern flank of our hill and stood before +me. I immediately recognized Abdallah and Kadu Stanley, whom I had left +behind at Taveita, to report the arrival of the caravan, but their +silence seemed so ominous that I could merely stare in suspended +apprehension. However, they were only speechless from their steep and +exhausting climb, and as soon as they had recovered their wind they +ambled forward with beaming faces, kissed my hands, and said, “Oh, +Bwana, nothing but good news! good news! Kiongwe has returned, and all +is well.” With these words; they threw at my feet a bag of letters, and +squatted down in my doorway to pant at their ease. The revulsion of +feeling within me was wonderful. I now lost my calm, contented +resignation of heretofore, and yearned to do great things. No longer +need I cajole Mandara and elude the bloodthirsty Wa-kibôšo. With the +reinforcements that were now arriving, I should have at my disposal a +force of over sixty men, with which I could disregard the goodwill of +the natives of Kilima-njaro, and quietly pursue my mission without fear +of hindrance. + +However, I was not yet free from difficulties, though the termination of +my trials seemed at hand. Mandara, hitherto, especially after his recent +amiable behaviour, had cherished the notion that my residence in his +country would be perpetual, and would probably become very angry if he +found out I was entertaining a project of withdrawing from Moši and +transferring my expedition to the country of his enemies. Consequently +it behoved me to act discreetly so that I might carry away all my +property from Kitimbiriu without provoking any inimical action on his +part. Probably he would not actively intervene to prevent my departure, +or to rob me of my goods; but he had only to convey a hint to the Masai +in the plains below, and my caravan would have little chance of ever +reaching Taveita intact. To Taveita, as a neutral ground, I determined +to go before again attempting the ascent of Kilima-njaro from another +point in Čaga. Accordingly I had directed that the porters should leave +their new loads there before proceeding to Moši, so that they might come +nearly empty-handed, and be ready to transport my goods from Kitimbiriu. + +Abdallah had carried out my secret orders very well. Kiongwe stayed +behind at Taveita with the sick and halting, and watched over the new +supplies which were there stowed away, while Abdallah and Kadu came on +to me with thirty porters, and carried nothing but the bag of letters +and some selected presents for Mandara. + +The morning after the arrival of my reinforcements I went to Mandara’s +court to announce ceremoniously the safe coming of my long-looked-for +men, and to read to him some letters I had received from Sir John Kirk. +Dressed in my best clothes, and accompanied by several followers gaily +decked, and bearing presents—for I had fortunately received some gaudy +uniforms and other gifts for Mandara from Zanzibar—I made my way to his +little square of beehive huts, wherein he passes the hours of daylight. +As I crossed the village-green the groups of soldiers there stationed +preserved a sullen demeanour, evidently reflected from the present +disposition of their chief. But I was not abashed, and passed blithely +on into the very midst of Mandara’s circle. The chief was seated in +gloomy silence, surrounded by his usual Swahili courtiers. When I +saluted him cheerily he turned away his head and scowled. His parasites +did the same, in a somewhat exaggerated fashion. But I was determined to +force my good-humour on him. Laying a brilliant scarlet gold-braided +vestment on his lap, I shook his unwilling hand, and said, “Khabari +njema! (Good news!). Khabari njema, Mandara. Khabari za Baloza, sikiliza +(News of the Consul, listen).” Mandara grunted and turned his head half +round. Then I seated myself on one of the low stools near him and began +to rather freely interpret a letter I drew from my pocket. In this +supposed communication from Sir John Kirk I affected to find stringent +orders to leave Mandara’s country, and return to the coast without +delay. “I don’t believe a word of it,” said the Prince of Moši when I +had finished, “not one word! If the Baloza wants you to return, why does +he send your men back loaded with goods when, if what you say is true, +you don’t need them? No, you want to quit me and go to live with some +other chief on the mountain, and that is why you have left your goods +behind at Taveita, and your porters come here empty-handed.” I +protested, however, that his suspicions were unjust, and vowed that +although now obliged to leave him, I would some day return; but for a +little while Mandara was obdurate. He even muttered threats about +impeding my departure, although after uttering them he looked ashamed +and contradicted himself. At length when I had half forcibly thrown the +scarlet coat round his shoulders and laid out the other presents in +tempting array his set features relaxed into a regretful smile. “Well, +child of the Baloza!” he said, with a sigh, “if you must go, you must, +and I cannot prevent you. But you will promise to return, will you not? +And then, see what we will do together”—and he warmed to the theme as he +talked; “We will make a big shamba (plantation) and grow all the +vegetables of Europe; we will trade for ivory with the Masai; we will +get rich together, eh?” Four months of Mandara’s society had taught me +how illusory all his offers of partnership were. However, I soothed him +with assurances that sooner or later I would reappear in Moši and our +relations should be renewed in a satisfactory manner. “And you won’t +forget to bring me an iron bedstead and an iron chair, like yours, and a +European dog, will you?” I assented to all these requests, and +ultimately our meeting broke up with much mutual friendliness. + +The next morning I bought some sheep and goats of Mandara, and bade him +an affectionate farewell. Then, having made all due preparations, and +taken a heartbreaking leave of my thriving plantations, where the beds +of potatoes and trailing cucumbers looked so prosperous, I gazed for the +last time at the country of Moši, where I had made my home during four +months, and then turned my back on Mandara and his kingdom, and set my +face once more towards Taveita. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + A MOVE TO MARAṄU.[24] + + +The people of Taveita were glad to welcome me once more to their midst, +and after the first few days, spent in rapidly building houses to store +my goods, and huts for my followers—from which efforts a small town +ultimately arose—I prepared to smooth the way by negotiations for a +peaceful ascent of Kilima-njaro. The chief of Maraṅu, a largish state (a +little bigger than Middlesex) on the south-eastern flank of the great +mountain, had latterly sent emissaries to Taveita, to question the +people of the forest sanctuary as to my real character and disposition. +News of my disputes with Mandara had reached him, and he thought, +perhaps, he might oust that chief in my good graces, and get me all to +himself with my (supposed) illimitable wealth, and my wonderful powers +of sorcery. I met his advances enthusiastically—perhaps _too_ +enthusiastically, because it at first roused suspicion as to my real +motives in entering Maraṅu—and sent to say, by Taveitan intermediaries, +that I should be very happy to make peace. I invited, moreover, all the +different chieftains of Kilima-njaro to send delegates to Taveita, where +we might discuss our differences on neutral ground. The hope was in me +that now being duly supported by a well-equipped band of followers, and +residing on my own land, I might act as the peaceful arbiter of +Kilima-njaro, might show its foolish people that their quarrels were +only to the advantage of the Arab slave-traders, and induce them to band +together in a friendly confederation to resist the common enemy. My +proposal for a conference was well received. Representatives from +Kibôšo, Mamba, Mwika, Kirua, Useri, came to Taveita. I had also sent a +letter to Mandara, explaining my object and inviting him to co-operate, +but no immediate answer was given, nor did he send any delegate to +attend our conference. The naked ambassadors of the different states I +have mentioned were all of one opinion. “Make friends with Maraṅu, and +you are friends with all of us. As to forming a league with Mandara +against the coast people, perhaps we will see—later; but it is Mandara +who must first make amends; it is he who has for years past robbed, +enslaved, and harried us. Did Maraṅu ever fight with Kibôšo, or Useri +with Mamba and Mwika? Never! There would be peace on the mountain were +it not for Mandara. He began the war—let him make proposals of peace. +Where is his delegate to-day?” + +I confess that having done my utmost I was not going to waste any more +time in trying to restore peace in troubled Čaga. Politics I only +meddled with inasmuch as they were contingent on the prosecution of my +scientific mission. As Mandara abstained from following my pacific +suggestions, all that remained to me was to make friends as speedily as +possible with Maraṅu—not for the pleasure of its chief’s acquaintance, +or for interest in its welfare, but in order to reside in the upper +regions in peace and quiet—and then proceed at once to the borders of +the snow, and make up for lost time by collecting as busily as possible. +Had the mission of pacifying and regenerating the states of Kilima-njaro +been confided to me I would have thrown my whole heart into it, and +might perhaps have done some real good, but it was not for that end that +I had received my grants from the Royal Society and the British +Association. They wanted plants and birds and beetles, not assurances +that certain obscure communities of savages in Central Africa had been +induced to abstain for a few months from killing and enslaving one +another. What would they say, when my six months’ residence on +Kilima-njaro was over, and I presented myself to their committee, and +said, “Oh, I am sorry to inform you I found the state of affairs in the +Čaga commonwealth so disorganized, that I set myself to work to restore +peace and prosperity, and this took up so much time that I wasn’t able +to collect”? + +No, so anxious was I to effect the purpose for which I had come to +Eastern Africa, that I often, when worried by all these intrigues, could +find nothing more fitting to exclaim than “Bother your quarrels and your +wrongs, let me get to the snow.” Sometimes I longed for giant bombs +containing carbonic acid gas, that I might explode them on the mountain, +and painlessly asphyxiate its troublesome inhabitants. But as this was +out of the question, the only plan I could think of was to make friends +with Mandara’s enemies, whether Mandara liked it or not. Accordingly, +after the little conference referred to, I despatched a mission to +Maraṅu with handsome presents for its chief, and a warm acceptance of +his peaceful overtures. Kiongwe, who had a pleasant manner and knew a +little Ki-čaga, undertook this rather risky errand. Arrived in the +vicinity of the king’s residence he was long kept waiting outside, +because the timid young sovereign was afraid of being bewitched by the +white man’s emissary. The people of Maraṅu, no less than their chief, +still feared treachery on my part. They dreaded lest all these peaceful +overtures might not be a cunning means of penetrating the country and +then attacking it unawares, in league with the dreaded Mandara. So as +they still hesitated between accepting or rejecting my proposals they +resolved to ascertain the true character of my mission by a potent test. +A goat was brought before the young chief, and made to swallow a +poisonous drug. “Now,” said the Sultan of Maraṅu to the smiling but +secretly uneasy Kiongwe, “if the goat dies I shall know that your heart +is black and your mission deceitful, and I will kill you, that your +master may see how I hate a lie; but if the goat lives, good; I shall +then be convinced you have spoken the truth, and your master really +wishes to be my friend.” After a short period of suspense the goat began +to retch violently, and finally vomited the noxious dose, then it +shivered a little, shook itself, bleated, and began to browse. A loud +burst of delighted acclamation greeted this favourable outcome of the +ordeal, and Kiongwe was relatively safe. His moral sifting was not +altogether finished, however; he must submit to a further trial. The +queen-dowager, who was reputed a regular witch or wizard-finder, took +him by both hands and gazed earnestly into his eyes. If his look should +flinch or turn aside, then was his heart black and treacherous. So far +from flinching, however, he glared at the queen-mother for his very +life, and it was she who first blinked; consequently, this last +_épreuve_ had terminated in his favour, and further whoops and yells of +hysterical joy rent the air. Then sending for the fattest ram in his +dominions, the chief of Maraṅu dismissed Kiongwe with this +characteristic present, and bade him assure me that he and his subjects +anxiously awaited the happy day when I and my people would enter and +build in their country. + +On the day following Kiongwe’s return a curious occurrence, savouring of +poetical justice, took place. One of my men informed me, early in the +morning, that in another part of Taveita the renegades of our +expedition, Mabruki and Athmani, had passed the night on their way to +the coast, whither they were convoying a band of slaves. (The reader may +remember that these two men had deserted from me during my first trials +in Moši, and had gone to live with Mandara to organize his slave-trade.) +At first I concluded that the information was of little value, as they +would be certain to rise with the dawn and pursue their road, and I +regretted bitterly that the news had reached me too late to cause an +effective intervention. But further reflection showed the possibility +that Mabruki and his confederate might still be within reach. The body +of the caravan would have quitted Taveita at dawn, but the two +ex-collectors, occupying now the position of independent traders, and +being no longer subservient to commands, might possibly linger behind +for an extra hour of sleep or to buy provisions for the day. At any rate +I resolved to see if I could catch them and release any of their +unfortunate slaves. Accordingly, assembling my followers round me, in +case there should be an appeal to force, we marched swiftly and silently +down to the camping-place indicated by my informer, and there had the +great joy to catch Mabruki and Athmani lying on the turf, half dozing, +with four slaves—three women and a boy—fastened round the trunk of a +tree, in whose grateful shade the renegades reposed. As I told my men in +a loud voice to cut the ropes which bound the slaves (the poor creatures +had their heads inserted in a kind of wooden pillory, which was tied to +the tree-trunk), Mabruki and Athmani started up in amazed anger, and the +former seized his gun as if meaning to shoot me, but I suppose a glance +at my well-armed followers made him refrain, so he broke out into angry +abuse instead. “Look here, Mabruki,” I said, “if you talk like that I +will have you tied to this tree and soundly thrashed. You are subjects +of the Sayyid of Zanzibar, and as such forbidden to trade in slaves. I +have a perfect right to free these people, and, what is more, if I +carried out my duty I should put you in irons, and hand you over to +justice when I reach Zanzibar; but as I am going back to Kilima-njaro +that is not convenient, so I let you go free for once, knowing that +sooner or later punishment will overtake you.” He changed his tone, and +fawned on me, and assured me that the slaves were not his, but +Mandara’s, and in taking them I should make Mandara my bitter enemy; but +I paid no attention, and carried off the slaves to my town. When we had +reached this place I questioned them, and found they were people of +Maraṅu captured by Mandara in war, and sold cheap to Mabruki, who was +taking them to the coast to sell on his own account, together with a +large number of other slaves which he was to dispose of for Mandara. +These latter had left Taveita, under the charge of one of Mandara’s +Swahilis, by early dawn, and Mabruki, who was the leader of the caravan, +was to have rejoined them by midday. Having learnt this, I ordered the +fetters of the slaves to be struck off, and told them they were now free +to go whithersoever they willed, but that if they feared to fall again +into the hands of their captors they might wait till the morrow, and +accompany my caravan to Maraṅu. This proposal they gladly accepted, and +when the fact was fully realized that their liberty was given back to +them and that they would soon be restored to their mountain home—for +these Čaga people are like the Swiss of old, passionately attached to +their native peaks and valleys—they burst into exclamations of delight, +calling me “Ndofu”—elephant—and “Great Chief,” and “Father,” and, what +was less agreeable, crawling to my feet after the manner of their people +and spitting on me continually, to manifest the esteem in which I was +held. Mabruki and Athmani returned to Mandara’s, vowing they would come +back with a big army to avenge their loss. But I knew it was a vain +threat, so I left my little town with but a small garrison, and started +for Kilima-njaro with a band of over forty men, some carrying loads and +others acting as guards, for we were not too sure that enemies might not +rise up somewhere to contest our progress, and I was resolved this time +to attain my end by force if necessary. + +The country of Maraṅu was reached after one day’s long walk. Its +southern frontier was a very remarkable one, and formed a barrier +seemingly impossible to cross in the teeth of armed opposition. An +impetuous stream flowing between precipitous walls of rock separated +Maraṅu from the outer wilderness. When we arrived on the brink of this +ravine and looked across to the opposite side, transit seemed a feat for +birds alone; but under the guidance and with the help of the Wa-maraṅu, +who had come to meet us, we managed to cross this strange gulf. We were +first of all let down a sheer wall of rock twenty feet in height, +clinging to the stout ropes of creepers, and then received in the arms +of stalwart natives, who were standing thigh-deep in the rushing water +at the base of the cliff. Two men carried me over to the opposite shore, +oppressed, not with my weight, but by the force of the current, which +threatened to make them lose their footing and wash us all away. +Fortunately on the further side the cliff was not so precipitous, and +afforded a few feet of landing. Here I paused to watch the safe descent +of my men and goods down the opposite wall of cliff into the water, and, +when all were fairly over their difficulties, I began to scale the bank +behind me, and was able to reach its summit unaided otherwise than by +the friendly branches which the cresting woodland stretched towards me. +Then, when the climb was over, I found myself surrounded by silent +natives, well armed, but quite friendly, and by their directions I +continued my upward journey along a narrow slippery path until I arrived +at the gate of the town. + +This perhaps is an incorrect phrase. It is rather the gate of the +country than of the town. Throughout Čaga, by which is meant the +inhabited district of Kilima-njaro, there is no such thing as a +congeries of habitations forming a town or village in our sense of the +word. Each family lives apart with its own two or three houses for men, +women, and beasts, surrounded by its plantations and gardens, with +plenty of room for expansion all round. In another sense, however, each +separate state of Čaga may be looked upon as a huge straggling city, one +vast capital of huts and gardens, equally inhabited and cultivated +throughout its extent. This little territory is more or less completely +surrounded by natural defences—indeed the girdle of ravines and cliffs +has formed the state by giving security to its inhabitants—but there is +almost always one easy means of approach which has been left open by +Nature, and that is, therefore, strongly fortified by man. Consequently +nearly all these tiny Čaga kingdoms have their “door” of entry, which is +at all times strongly guarded, and often serves as a pretext for toll. +In my case, however, as an honoured guest of the chief, I was not asked +for any “gate-money,” and the guards on the farther side of the barrier +invited me cordially to enter freely. This, in spite of goodwill on +their part, was not easy of accomplishment. The opening through which I +was expected to pass was a narrow delta-like slit or tunnel about three +feet high, three feet broad, and six feet long. Through this I had to +wriggle awkwardly, and consequently entered Maraṅu in the attitude of +the Enemy of our race when punished for the fall of man. However, as +this entailed no humiliation in the natives’ eyes, and as prince and +peasant quitted and entered their precincts in the same manner, I took +it very good-humouredly, picked myself up, dusted my habiliments and +smiled beamingly on all around. The smile was returned with many a broad +grin, but as yet no word of greeting passed their lips. They simply sat +on their haunches and stared at me. None of them, except two or three +who had acted as my guides, had ever seen a white man before, and they +wanted to examine the marvel visually before expending their energies in +talk. However, I was not so taciturn, but addressed a few friendly words +in Ki-čaga to the foremost men. A shout of surprise went up, “Amanya +mateta haru!” (He knows our language!) they cried, and we were friends +at once. I could not help feeling how satisfactory this was. Here there +were perhaps 400 savages assembled, all of them armed—in short, most of +the fighting-men of the country were present, and about 200 of them +provided—strange incongruity!—with Government Sniders. These had +recently been obtained from a Swahili trader who had bought rifles from +Thomson’s men and other discharged expeditions on the coast, and had +exchanged them in Maraṅu for ivory. Bravely as my forty followers might +have fought, we should inevitably have been massacred to a man in these +rocky defiles had the natives chosen to revenge on us their old quarrels +with Mandara, in which, until recently, I had been thought to bear an +active part. Fortunately they had no such evil intentions, and I felt +such confidence in the naïve wonder and awe with which I was regarded +that I walked about unarmed, and allowed my men to disperse in all +directions. I inquired for the Sultan, but I was told that he had gone +on a visit to his uncle of Kibôšo, and would not return until the next +day. His brother, however, a proud-looking, handsome boy, with an +ancient Egyptian cast of features and light complexion, was pointed out +to me, and I asked him to show me a place wherein we might camp, as +night was approaching. He set a soldier to lead the way, and we walked +upwards for about half an hour, finally settling on a village-green—a +smooth expanse of turf, intersected by a stream of running water. The +Sultan’s mother, a woman of middle age, came to greet us, and brought +the welcome present of a large fat goat, which was immediately killed, +cut up and distributed among my hungry followers, a nice loin-chop and +kidneys being cooked for me. + +The next morning the worthy mother of the reigning chief sent me a bowl +of delicious fresh milk, and I received also many visits on the part of +the local notables, but had to dismiss them while my toilet was being +performed, though this brought little privacy, as many shoved their +heads under the skirting of the tent and watched me take my bath with +intense interest. As soon as I had dressed I set the men to work to cut +branches and make a necessary fence round the tent and kitchen—otherwise +the crowd of natives would have invaded every corner. Then I went on my +walks abroad to see Maraṅu in the fresh morning air, and pay various +visits of ceremony. First, I repaired to the Sultan’s mother to thank +her heartily for sending gifts of meat and milk. This lady received me +in a spacious compound under a kind of open shed, with seats placed all +round, and a handsome white ox-hide neatly stretched over the floor +within. The Sultan’s mother took me by both hands, and looked hard into +my eyes. This ordeal I was instructed (_sotto voce_ by Kiongwe) to bear +without flinching, and on no account to avoid the Sultana’s gaze. +Consequently I glared at her so fixedly that she was forced to lower her +eyes, upon which she turned to her attendants and declared she approved +of me thoroughly. Then I was desired to seat myself by her side on the +white ox-skin. I did so. A brief and embarrassed silence followed, +broken by the queen-mother, who expressed to Kiongwe somewhat +hesitatingly that she greatly desired to see the colour of my legs. On +hearing the request I had first thought to dissuade her by explaining +what a tedious process it would be to unlace and take off my long +shooting-boots, but, seeing she was seriously disappointed, I consented +so far as to pull up my knee-breeches and disclose the upper part of my +shin. Loud were the cries from the many lookers-on, and deep the +admiration of the Sultan’s mother at the sight of flesh so white. “It +looks like cloth which has been washed with soap from the coast,” she +said, and then added, with considerable acumen, “I know why his skin is +so pale; he always keeps it covered. _We_ show everything to the sun,” +which was strictly true, for not only the queen-mother, but most of the +ladies of this African court were really as devoid of apparel as could +well be, the only attempt at a covering being collars of beads and iron +bracelets. After this we went in a long procession to the Sultan’s +residence, the owner being temporarily absent. Here there was much more +constructive art displayed than at Moši. First a solid wall or +_enceinte_ of stones; then the divisions of the minor spaces formed by +neat—extremely neat—hedges of well-trimmed dracæna, and, lastly, stout +fences of large planks, constructed to divide and shut off the various +compartments of the Sultan’s rather _al fresco_ residence. These planks +had not been sawn, but simply split first and then planed by gentle +chopping with a small axe until the thickness was about equal. The +boards were fastened together by holes drilled in the side and stout +bands of leather cord passed through and through. + +I extracted the following information from the queen-mother as to the +hereditary laws in this part of Čaga. It is not the eldest son who +succeeds his father as the ruling chief, nor the youngest, but usually +the second or third, because this fortunately placed individual +generally, for reasons too complicated to be here explained, acquires +the greater portion of his sire’s wealth, and is chosen to succeed him +by the elders of the nation as one likely to be munificent. Somiriali, +the present Sultan of Maraṅu, is quite a young man, and has fifty wives. + +On the third day of my stay in his country the Sultan returned from his +expedition, and I went to see him early in the morning. After waiting +some minutes in a crowd of soldiers and women, a thin, mean-looking +youth at length appeared, and advanced somewhat timidly towards me. He +took my hand, and I shook his vigorously. Then there was an awkward +pause, and after smiling vaguely at one another, Mauki, one of the +Sultan’s men, called to me from the crowd that I had better withdraw and +see the Sultan afterwards in his house. Accordingly later on I repaired +to the chief’s residence, and there saw him sitting in a close, pokey +little compartment, his sleeping-chamber, in fidgety expectation of his +presents. He looked on restlessly while the tin box was opened, and, as +each fresh thing appeared, he asked, “What else? What else?” The +musical-box he somewhat appreciated, and turned its handle by jerks. The +cloth and beads were hardly looked at, and the coloured pictures which +had so delighted the æsthetic Mandara were received with suspicion and +distrust, as savouring somewhat of magic. After many words and fine +promises, all of which had little effect on the dissipated youth, who +was more concerned about the parasites that infested his person than +about the advantages to be derived from the white man’s friendship, we +withdrew and took our leave; but, shortly afterwards, the Sultan +followed on my footsteps, and appeared in the camp just as I was sitting +down to a quiet breakfast. I began to hate him, especially as he entered +my tidy tent and sat down in his greasy paint and dirt on my clean bed. +Now commenced my difficulties. I wanted, in reality, merely to pass +through this man’s country and obtain guides for the higher regions, and +wished his people to accompany me for the further reason that they would +be able to explain to the warlike Wa-kibôšo, with whom they were allied, +the change in my position, and how I had made friends with their chief +of Maraṅu, who was one of the principal leaders in the coalition against +Mandara. + +The chief, however, looked on my arrival in his country as an excellent +opportunity for extortion; and, moreover, wanted me to live permanently +at his court, so that my stream of wealth might flow into his coffers +rather than his neighbours’. So it was I had to intrigue a little with +the Sultan of Maraṅu as to my ultimate intention of returning to +Taveita, and promise anything so that he should remain in good-humour, +and give me guides, and let me go to the snow-peaks. Therefore I was +obliged to control my repugnance at his filthy presence, and smile +sweetly at his inquisitive pryings into my private boxes. At one time he +suddenly seized my loaded revolver, hanging up from the tent-post, and, +before I could stop him, fired off every cartridge in it at random, +fortunately hitting nobody, but only missing my own person by a fluke. +Then he would take my greatcoat and try it on, and indeed endeavoured to +walk off with it, until forcibly detained. At length he calmed down, and +proceeded to formulate his demands, which he desired me to forward by +special messenger to Sir John Kirk, at Zanzibar, hinting that I should +be held a hostage until the goods arrived. I stipulated that meanwhile +he should send me up the mountain. He consented, and then I allowed him +to give the wildest scope to his covetous imagination. “See,” he said, +“I want you to give me this bed” (patting my tidy, clean white couch). +“Very well,” I replied, “when I come back from the mountain.” “And this +chair?” “Yes, and the chair, too.” “Very well, now take karatassi +(paper), and write down all the things I want the Baloza (Sir John Kirk) +to send me from the coast.” (I got out a sheet of note-paper and a +pencil, and affected to write.) “First, I want thirty barrels of +powder.” “Yes,” I answered with sweet compliance, and wrote busily. +“Next, 100 bunduki Sna-ider (Snider rifles), and 100 bunduki za fataki +(muzzle-loading guns), and 1000 viassi (cartridges), for the bunduki +Sna-ider, and a big ‘kinanda’ (concertina) like the Arabs have, and a +little box like this (my desk), and a table and a house of cloth (tent), +and thirty loads of big red beads, and thirty loads of fine blue beads, +and fifty loads of Merikani, and soruali (trousers—a palpable want), +&c.” Here he paused to think of some fresh item, and Kiongwe, enraged at +his rapacity, could no longer restrain his feelings, so he said to me, +in broken English, “This man plenty devilly.” The Sultan pricked up his +ears, and asked suspiciously, “Eh, what? Kitu gani devilly?” (What sort +of thing is “devilly”?) “Oh,” I replied, with much presence of mind, “a +sort of coat like this,” pointing to my jacket. “Very well, then,” he +answered, “write down _two_ devilly.” I affected to do so, and then once +more besought the Sultan that guides might be given me the next morning. +As his greed was now appeased by these lavish promises he assented, and +to my great relief, wrapped his unpleasant garment round him and left my +tent. + +Accordingly it was decided that the following day we should commence our +second ascent of Kilima-njaro. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 54.—Kibô Cloud-capped. +] + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + A SECOND ASCENT. + + +After a most disturbed night, owing to the howling of the natives, who +were celebrating their chief’s return by vigorous dancing, I set to work +early to pack and prepare for my second ascent of the mountain. It was +very hot that morning, and what with the fatigue and worry of +distributing the loads and serving out “posho” (food allowance), I felt +quite knocked up. The Sultan made many difficulties about furnishing me +with guides, but as I showed resolutely that I intended to go either +with or without them, he gave in, and sent me four men, clamorous ravens +that they were. These latter shrieked and disputed about the amount of +cloth due to them, and at length I abruptly turned two away. About +half-past one we started, and left the precincts of the Sultan’s “court” +with little regret. After crossing one fine river and walking through a +smiling and fertile country, we began to ascend some thousand feet above +the level of Maraṅu, and passed along intricate lanes of dracæna and by +banana groves flourishing at a height of about 5500 feet. After a +further ascent of a few hundred feet, cultivation came to an end, and we +entered a heathy district, with pleasant grassy knolls and many streams +of running water, finally encamping for the night beside a lovely +fern-choked brook at 6500 feet, the whole ascent having proved very +gradual. + +The following day we quitted our camping-place at about half-past seven, +and walked on, with occasional rests, for about two hours, when we found +ourselves in dense forest, at an elevation of 7000 feet. Here we stopped +and breakfasted. The scenery was pretty much the same as on the Moši +road, which was described in Chapter XI. Short, gnarled trees, uplands +thickly covered with moss and ferns, and teeming with parasitic +begonias, bearing sweet-scented white flowers; many tree-ferns and few +signs of animal life, save occasional tracks of elephants or the +scattered feathers of a touraco—dark blue with red pinions. At half-past +eleven we started again, and journeyed on till nearly three. We had then +reached an elevation of 9000 feet, and had passed for some distance +through a region clear of forest, and merely covered with open grass. At +our camping-place, however, we entered the woodland again, and here, +fortunately, found a little stream of water. Indeed, on the road between +the mountain and Maraṅu water was much more abundant than on the Moši +track. I caught a small chameleon and several beetles in this place. The +next day we left this camp at eight o’clock, and journeyed eastward for +about two hours, searching for a good site whereon to make my +settlement, which must be close to water, and not too high up, so that +my shivering followers might not suffer unreasonably from cold. I +selected an admirable spot on a grassy knoll rising above the river of +Kilema, which takes its source near the east of Kimawenzi. The altitude +of this site was nearly 10,000 feet. It was about four miles in a direct +line from Kimawenzi, and about seven from Kibô. + +Directly my choice was made, so that no time might be lost, the men set +to work at once cutting down the giant ericas (heaths), and using their +trunks for building-poles and their dry heather for thatch, while the +coarse grass that here covered the ground was reaped, and also employed +for roofing the huts and making snug beds on the ground. With such +rapidity did the men work that before nightfall on the day of our +arrival some fifteen cosy huts had been nearly completed, and a rough +kind of kitchen had been made for my behoof. For my own lodging the tent +had to serve, as I was not yet confident as to the rain-proof character +of the heather huts. That night they were to be roughly tried. + +I had taken to my bed early in the afternoon, having severely hurt my +knee, falling over sharp rocks in the stream-valley; but I could see +through the tent door clouds of fearful portent rolling up over the +upper slopes of the hidden mountain. In the early night growls of +thunder began to be heard, together with lurid quiverings of lightning, +which shimmered through the awful complete darkness. Big drops fell one +by one with thuds like pellets on the tightly-stretched covering of the +tent. Then, suddenly, a bellow of thunder, so deafeningly loud that +one’s ears were stunned for a moment, burst from the storm right over +our heads, seemingly, and echoed from all the ravines and hollows of the +mountain side. Flash after flash of lightning revealed the whole scene +in momentary brilliancy, and then the few desultory drops of rain +changed into a soaking downpour. I called my two personal servants and +my cook into the tent, which, happily, was watertight, and they +gratefully huddled together on the floor till the tempest ceased. + +The next morning, however, by a happy contrast the scene was fair and +smiling. The sky was cloudless and serene, the two snow-peaks were in +full view, and mild as the heat of the sun was at this elevation, it was +nevertheless of some service in drying the soaked garments of the men. +All through this day succeeding the storm the men worked unremittingly +at their houses, especially thatching their roofs with increased care, +and when another downpour took place we observed with pleasure that no +wet had penetrated the interior of the dwellings. + +When these were completed, the whole settlement was further surrounded +by a stout fence or “boma” as a wise precaution against possible +assault. The rushing river flowed along one side of our little village, +and the only gate of entrance and exit was so constructed that it might +easily be blocked and rendered impassable. + +My own portion of the settlement was strongly railed off from the rest, +and would serve in case of attack as a citadel and last refuge from +besiegers. You see we were still doubtful as to the manner in which our +old foes of Kibôšo would behave, and thought it best to anticipate the +worst. We had scarcely finished these preparations before, one morning +early, my men came running in to announce the approach of a troop of +suspicious-looking savages. It was the Wa-kibôšo, we felt sure, and all +made silently ready to defend the settlement if these people intended to +fight. Soon their foremost men appeared on the rising slope to the west +of the settlement, planted their spears in the ground and sat down to +parley. Taking Kiongwe and one of the Maraṅu guides, I hobbled out (for +my wounded knee still pained me) to within ten yards of the Wa-kibôšo. +“Do you come as friends or foes?” I asked. “Mbuïa, mbuïa!” (Friends, +friends!), they quickly replied, and then came running down the slope to +shake hands. After this they informed us that hearing the white man, who +had lived in Moši, had now left Mandara and had come to live peacefully +high up on Kilima-njaro, the people of Kibôšo were anxious to be friends +with him and come to trade, but that, fearing he might still be bitter +in heart against them, they had sent their soldiers on in advance to +sound the white man’s feelings. I hastened to reply cordially to this +statement and begged the Kibôšo soldiers to go and tell their +fellow-citizens who were waiting in the bush that they might come and +trade fearlessly with me and receive good measure for what they sold. +The soldiers and I then exchanged presents, after which they went off to +call their countrymen on the scene. The trading Wa-kibôšo came by +midday, bringing provisions for sale, both good in quality and cheap in +price, so that now, all anxiety about provisioning my party was at an +end. + +I could not but admire the enterprise which these people showed in +carrying their wares a distance of some eight or nine miles to trade +with one whom but a few days before they had considered a dangerous +magician. I soon got on excellent terms with these Wa-kibôšo whom in +past days I had looked upon as my bitterest foes, and who had been in +turns amazed and mystified by my fireworks and my theodolite. Now that +we were friends I had many a pleasant chat with them, and offered to +visit their country and chief (who is the uncle of the Prince of +Maraṅu), but this last proposal they hesitated to accept. Their Sultan +had given them permission to trade with me, and he wished to remain at +peace with the white man, but as to seeing him!—“No, he was much too +undoubted a sorcerer!” The chief of Kibôšo was an old man, and it would +be easy to bewitch him. So, on the whole, it would be better for both +parties that we should remain apart. I did not insist, as I only cared +now to collect in the chilly regions near the snow, and wished for no +more native complications after my delays and difficulties in Moši and +Maraṅu. Every day during my stay at this high elevation the Wa-kibôšo +came to trade, bringing bleating goats, magnificent clusters of ripening +bananas, sweet potatoes, honey, and tobacco; and, moreover, as soon as +they were made aware of my wishes, they captured animals for my +collections, and would bring me squeaking, wriggling hyraxes tied +securely to forked sticks. Many of these little beasts proved utterly +untamable, though I kept several young ones alive until I returned to +Taveita, but on reaching the lowlands they sickened and died. + +The accident to my knee-cap compelled me to spend several days in +enforced idleness, but as soon as I was able to go about I began my +rambles up the mountain. My first excursion was to the base of +Kimawenzi, the lesser of the two peaks. The terrible hurricane of wind, +however, that raged round this jagged series of lava spurs prevented me +from continuing the ascent, although I doubt if it be possible for any +one to reach the summit, owing to the want of foothold. The snow varies +very much in quantity on Kimawenzi. Sometimes the whole peak will be +covered down to the parent ridge, with only the precipitous rocks +peeping blackly through the mantle of white. At other periods the snow +will be reduced to an insignificant patch, and the reddish sand which +fills the crevices and glissades between the lava rocks will be left +exposed to view. This change from an almost complete snow-cap to nearly +no snow at all may be effected in twelve hours. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 55.—Kimawenzi. +] + +During the whole of our stay in these regions, which included the +greater part of October, we were subjected constantly to the most +violent thunderstorms, and indeed the weather generally was abominable, +and its effect on my men most depressing. Although the roofs of their +hastily-built huts were fairly watertight, yet the constantly dripping +rain made the ground swampy, and the driving mist swept into every +opening and rendered everything uncomfortably damp. For hours together +we would be enveloped in dense fog, which had such a gloomy appearance +that my men often begged me to abandon my intentions of ascending any +further, and return to sunny Taveita. But, until I had made a further +attempt to reach the snows and possibly the apex of Kibô I could not +accede to their wishes. Therefore, I began to make arrangements for a +lengthened climb of the huge domed summit which marks the climax of +Kilima-njaro. To do this successfully it would be necessary, owing to +the time occupied in the ascent, to sleep on the way. Accordingly, I +could not go alone, but must induce a few followers to accompany me to +carry my necessary impedimenta. My Indian servant, Virapan, of course +volunteered; but I had to leave him behind, as he was not only disabled +with severe ulcers on the legs, but I was afraid to quit the settlement +without putting some responsible person in charge. So I selected three +of my followers who looked agile and strong, and were not more cowardly +than the majority—by cowardly I mean afraid of the unknown and the +unseen: they were brave enough in the presence of ordinary African +dangers—and providing each man with a warm blanket, and loading them +with my own coverings, and with food, and implements for collecting and +observing, I waited until the morning mists had somewhat cleared, and +then, taking an affectionate leave of the rest of my caravan, who looked +upon my companions and myself as rash men courting death, I turned my +face to that quarter of the sky where the heavy concentration of cloud +masses indicated the presence of the great Kibô. + +Starting at nine, I walked upwards, with few stoppages, until 1.30. At +first we crossed grassy, undulating hillocks, the road being fairly +easy. Then we entered a heathy tract, scorched and burnt with recent +bush fires, but higher up, where the blaze had not reached, the +vegetation was fairly abundant and green. Small pink irises[25] studded +the ground in numbers, an occasional gladiolus[26] of a vivid crimson +gleamed brightly out from the tufted grass. About 12,600 feet we struck +a pretty little stream, flowing S.S.W., and lower down carving its way +through a tremendous ravine, the sides of which were clothed with thick +vegetation and gaily lit up with the brilliant red-leaf shoots of the +protea (_Protea Abyssinica_) shrub. At the place where we crossed the +stream the banks were shelving, and above the little ford the water fell +in pretty cascades through a rift in the higher ridge of rock. About +this spot the surrounding scenery had lost much of its accustomed +asperity. On the further side of the stream was a patch of level green +sward, somewhat spoilt by the buffaloes who came thither to drink and +sport, and who had rucked up and befouled much of this little natural +lawn. Strange sessile thistles grew here, nearly five feet in +circumference, belonging to the genus _Carduus_, also an extraordinary +lobelia (_Lobelia Deckeni_), three to four feet in height, with a +teazle-like crown of silvery green bracts and bright blue blossoms. +Other remarkable plants were the lovely _Cynoglossum amplifolium_, with +rich ultramarine flowers, and an extraordinary arborescent plant, since +named _Senecio Johnstoni_, looking somewhat like a banana in the +distance, but in reality consisting of a tall, black, smooth trunk, +twenty to thirty feet in height, and surmounted by a huge crown of broad +leaves interspersed or headed up with bunches of yellow blossom. This +strange composite grew abundantly in the streamlet’s bed, and its trunk +was so superficially rooted and so rotten that, in spite of its height +and girth, I could pull it down with one hand. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 56.—_Senecio Johnstoni._ +] + +Tufts of chervil and other tall _Umbelliferæ_, with patches of vivid +green moss, overhung the water, which itself was lovely in its absolute +clearness and in the bright wavelets and streaks of foam which marked +its hurried descent. At this altitude of nearly 13,000 feet bees and +wasps were still to be seen—their very presence, too, seemed to account +for the vivid colours of the flora—and bright little sun-birds darted +from bush to bush, gleaning their repast of honey.[27] + +As we ascended on the further side of the stream-valley we came to some +strange boulders or smoothed masses of rock. They had been eaten away +underneath into small caverns, large enough for a man to creep into. I +went inside several, but detected nothing whatever resembling either +past or present animal occupation. The last fern I saw on +Kilima-njaro,[28] as I went upwards, I picked from under a sheltered +shelf of one of these caverns. Beyond and about these huge slabs of rock +the ground became pappy and boggy with water, in fact some three or four +small springs issued from about the rocks, and seemed to have done their +work in carving the cavelike hollows within. Putting down my hand to +gather a small plant by the roots, I was surprised to find the water +warm. At first I fancied it an illusion, and called to one of the men to +try, when he also exclaimed at the unexpected warmth. Then getting out +my thermometer I found the temperature of the trickling mud—for it was +little else in this bog—to be 91° Fahr. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 57.—Curious Rocks, marked like a Tortoise-shell. +] + +Mounting high above the rivulet the scenery became much harsher. +Vegetation only grew in dwarfed patches as we passed the altitude of +13,000 feet, and the ground was covered with boulders, more or less big, +apparently lying in utter confusion, and without any definite direction. +These slabs of rock were singularly shaped, and marked like huge +tortoise-shells (_vide_ illustration), being divided by lines and seams +into a tesselated surface. They were not very difficult to climb over, +and even seemed to act as irregular stone steps upwards. In their +interstices heaths of the size of large shrubs grew with a certain +luxuriance, and bright yellow euryops flowers studded the occasional +patches of bare earth, while every now and then my eye alighted with +pleasure on lovely clusters of pink everlasting flowers growing, where +they did grow, so thickly that they presented a blushing sheet of rosy +bloom. About 13,700 feet I saw the last resident bird, a kind of +stonechat.[29] It went in little cheery flocks, and showed such absence +of fear that I had to walk away from it before shooting, to avoid +shattering my specimen. After this, with the exception of an occasional +high-soaring kite or great-billed raven, I saw no other bird. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 58.—Great-billed Ravens. +] + +On reaching a height a little above 14,000 feet, I stopped again to boil +the thermometer and refresh myself with a little lunch. The result of my +observations gave this altitude as 14,117 feet. Throughout this ascent, +which was easy to climb, I suffered absolutely nothing from want of +health or mountain-sickness, although my three Zanzibari followers +lagged behind, panting and exhausted, and complained much of their lungs +and head. Moreover, every gust of wind breaking the silence of the +mountain made them look round with ashy countenances, convinced that the +Bogy of Kilima-njaro was upon them, coming _in propriâ personâ_ to +chastise our presumption. I often dreaded that their panic would +overcome them, and that they would turn and flee, carrying with them my +collecting things, instruments, and provisions. Moreover, about this +time we occasionally heard distant rumblings of thunder echoing among +unseen cliffs and valleys; and although these weird sounds might be only +referable to that cause, still I confess they did resemble somewhat the +rising murmurs of an angry spirit—or, at least, they did to my men’s +imaginations, for I myself, never having heard an angry spirit murmur, +was not in a position to discriminate. However, I resolved not to try +their powers of endurance much longer, so, on arriving at the place +where I stopped to lunch—a protected hollow surrounded by huge flattened +boulders—I determined to fix on this as our sleeping-place for the +night, and accordingly directed the men to collect the dry roots of the +heaths and other fair-sized shrubs as firewood. They were further +instructed to proceed to the small stream which rose hard by and fill +our gourds there with water, and afterwards to stretch out a macintosh +in guise of a tent, so that we might have some shelter against possible +rain and wind. Other directions for rendering our instalment as +comfortable as the unfavourable circumstances would permit were also +given; and having left the men in seemingly better spirits, I hastened +to continue my ascent while the weather would permit. + +Climbing up a few hundred feet higher than the last stopping-place, and +rounding an unsuspected and deep ravine, I arrived close to the base of +a small peak which had been a continual and useful point to aim at +during the whole journey from my station. I was now at an elevation of +15,150 feet, and on the central connecting ridge of Kilima-njaro, and +could see a little on both sides, though the misty state of the +atmosphere prevented my getting any good view of the country. This +ridge, which from below looks so simple and straight, is in reality +dotted with several small monticules and cut up into many minor ridges, +the general direction of which is, on the southern side, from north-east +to south-west. To the eastward I could see the greater part of Kimawenzi +rising grandly with its jagged peaks and smooth glissades of golden +sand. Westward I still looked vainly in the piled-up clouds, for the +monarch of the chain still remained obstinately hidden, and I was at a +loss how to best approach his awful crown of snow. At length, and it was +so sudden and so fleeting that I had no time to fully take in the +majesty of the snowy dome of Kibô, the clouds parted and I looked on a +blaze of snow so blinding white under the brief flicker of sunlight that +I could see little detail. Since sunrise that morning I had caught no +glimpse of Kibô, and now it was suddenly presented to me with unusual +and startling nearness. But before I could get out my sketch-book and +sharpen my chalk-pencil the clouds had once more hidden everything, +indeed had enclosed me in a kind of London fog, very depressing in +character, for the decrease in light was rather alarming to one who felt +himself alone and cut off at a point nearly as high as the summit of +Mont Blanc. However, knowing now the direction of my goal, I rose from +the clammy stones, and clutching up my sketch-book with benumbed hands, +began once more to ascend westwards. Seeing but a few yards in front of +me, choked with mist, I made but slow progress; nevertheless, I +continually mounted along a gently sloping, hummocky ridge where the +spaces in between the masses of rock were filled with fine yellowish +sand. There were also fragments of stone strewn about, and some of these +I put into my knapsack. The slabs of rock were so slippery with the +drizzling mist that I very often nearly lost my footing, and I thought +with a shudder what a sprained ankle would mean here. However, though +reflection told me it would be better to return to my followers and +recommence the climb to-morrow, I still struggled on with stupid +persistency, and at length, after a rather steeper ascent than usual up +the now smoother and sharper ridge, I suddenly encountered snow lying at +my very feet, and nearly plunged headlong into a great rift filled with +snow that here seemed to cut across the ridge and interrupt it. The +dense mist cleared a little in a partial manner, and I then saw to my +left the black rock sloping gently to an awful gulf of snow so vast and +deep that its limits were concealed by fog. Above me a line of snow was +just discernible, and altogether the prospect was such a gloomy one with +its all-surrounding curtain of sombre cloud and its uninhabited wastes +of snow and rock, that my heart sank within me at my loneliness. +Nevertheless, I thought “only a little farther and perhaps I may ascend +above the clouds and stand gazing down into the crater of Kilima-njaro +from its snowy rim.” So turning momentarily northwards I rounded the +rift of snow, and once more dragged myself, now breathless and panting, +and with aching limbs, along the slippery ridge of bare rock which went +ever mounting upwards. I continued this for nearly an hour, and then +dropped exhausted on the ground, overcome with what I suppose was an +ordinary attack of mountain-sickness. + +It is not necessary to dilate on my sensations at this moment. Possibly +there are some among my readers who have scaled the giant peaks of South +America, India, and Armenia, and who would laugh at the puny +difficulties that Kilima-njaro presents—a mountain that can be climbed +without even the aid of a walking-stick, and where the most serious +obstacles arise from mist and cold which would scarcely deter a cockney +from ascending Snowdon. But the feeling that overcame me when I sat and +gasped for breath on the wet and slippery rocks at this great height was +one of overwhelming isolation. I felt as if I should never more regain +the force to move, and must remain and die amid this horrid solitude of +stones and snow. Then I took some brandy-and-water from my flask, and a +little courage came back to me. I was miserably cold, the driving mist +having wetted me to the skin. Yet the temperature recorded here was +above freezing-point, being 35° Fahr. I boiled my thermometer, and the +agreeable warmth of the spirit-lamp put life into my benumbed hands. The +mercury rose to 183·8. This observation when properly computed, and with +the correction added for the temperature of the intermediate air, gives +a height of 16,315 feet as the highest point I attained on Kilima-njaro. +I thus came within a little more than 2000 feet of the summit, which is +usually estimated to reach an altitude of 18,800 feet. + +Having looked at my watch, I found it was now nearly half-past four, so +I resolved to hasten back as quickly as possible to my improvised +shelter, for the clouds were thickening, and thin showers of sleety snow +were falling. A high wind arose and whipped my face with the icy rain, +and made it very difficult to keep my footing on the slippery ridge. At +length I reached the boulders and the sand, then descending with greater +ease entered once more, at about an altitude of 15,000 feet, the region +of vegetation. Keeping in view the small hillock I have already +mentioned as such a useful landmark, I ultimately found my way back to +the spot where I had left the men. What was my agonized surprise to find +on searching the sheltered hollow, that it was deserted and abandoned! I +hesitated but little. Sooner than remain there without blankets, food, +or fire, I would endeavour to regain my station, even though I had to +wander all night on the lonely flanks of the mountain; so starting off +in the waning daylight, I hurried over the now easy descent at a pace +that soon quickened into an irregular run. I crossed the stream at the +well-remembered ford; and cheered with the sight of old landmarks, and +warmed with the violent exercise, I marched straight on in the direction +of my little village. The mists dispersed, the moon shone out brightly, +I could clearly distinguish familiar hill-tops, and on reaching once +more the banks of my own river, I then had an unfailing guide to follow +until the glimmering watch-fires of my settlement glanced out from our +bushy stockade, and the loud voices of men broke the still and frosty +air. As I stepped in through the palisade, and appeared before my almost +terror-stricken men, I saw I was at first taken for my own ghost, but +when I had spoken a few sentences in a very real and energetic tone to +the three culprits who had deserted me, the other men crowded round me +in an ecstasy of joy, kissing my hands, patting me all over to assure +themselves that I was back in the flesh, and assuring me that if I had +taken _them_, _they_ would never have left me to perish in the snowy +solitudes above—no! not if the Demon of the Mountain had appeared +visibly in all his terrors to confront them. It appeared that my three +followers had remained for about an hour in the place I had left them, +and then seeing I did not return, had been seized with an irresistible +panic, had caught up their loads, and had returned helter-skelter to the +station. Fortunately they had not lost the collections, so after a short +rebuke I was disposed to condone their fault; the more so, as I felt so +thankful to return to warmth and shelter and familiar faces, that I +little cared to pass the night in unprofitable scolding. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 59.—The Dome of Kibô from an altitude of 11,000 feet. +] + +The next day I was so worn out with fatigue that I could not go far +beyond the settlement, and therefore spent my time chaffering with the +men of Uru and Kibôšo, who had arrived to hold another market. On the +morrow, I once again made an attempt, this time alone, to reach the +snows of Kibô, and just managed to do so, but the weather was again +atrocious, and the bitter cold compelled me to return at an early hour, +to avoid being benighted far from camp. The rain cleared about five +o’clock, and on my homeward tramp I had one magnificent view of the dome +of Kibô, thickly and freshly powdered with snow and roseate under the +rays of the declining sun. I was struck by the numbers of great-billed +ravens which together with one hawk circled and soared high up, near the +snows of the mountain. Perhaps some adventurous buffalo had come to +grief and they were watching from the heights above his struggles in a +native’s pitfall. I saw the dung and footprints of these buffaloes up to +14,000 feet, and it is possible that they pass backwards and forwards +over the central ridge between the northern and southern slopes of +Kilima-njaro. I also saw the footmarks of a large antelope, possibly a +koodoo, to judge from the natives’ description. I might here remark that +in spite of a month’s residence in these high altitudes, not to mention +previous visits at other times, I never succeeded in seeing a specimen +of the buffalo or big antelope who penetrate in their wanderings up to +the very snow, although of their existence I have not the smallest doubt +from the distinctness and freshness of the footmarks so frequently met +with, and from the presence of droppings only a few hours old. The +natives, also, ascend the mountain to heights of 12,000 and 13,000 feet, +solely for the purpose of digging pitfalls to entrap these creatures. I +have questioned them many times and exhaustively, and they assured me +the buffalo and koodoo were identical with those inhabiting the plain +below. The natives’ shields were often made of untanned buffalo-hide, +and the horns were turned into powder-flasks. I should further mention +here that the elephant, at all times an excellent mountaineer (I have +seen him on the Chella mountains in Angola at 8000 feet), wanders up +Kilima-njaro to as great a height as the buffalo. I have not only seen +his recent traces, but at a height of 13,000 feet I actually saw three +of these animals crossing nimbly a stream-valley, and mounting with +agility the steep slopes that rose above the water. At night, too, round +our settlement we would frequently hear their loud shrill trumpeting. A +species of hyrax[30] inhabits the slopes of Kilima-njaro up to 11,000 +feet. It affects always the neighbourhood of trees. During the night, in +the forest, these creatures call loudly to one another. The young +hyraxes, even in captivity, exhibit great power of modulation in their +voices, and their loud cries are almost human in tone. + +During the greater part of October I remained in this lofty settlement, +and spent nearly every hour of daylight rambling about the mountain with +my collecting-portfolio and bird-gun. But in only two of my trips, as +already recorded, did I reach the snow. Owing to the length of time +involved in a climb to the snow-line (for the slope of the mountain was +very gradual) I was never able to accomplish the entire ascent of either +peak, going and returning in one day; and as I found it impossible to +induce my shivering men to follow me into the mists and hailstorms, and +could not unaided carry tent, instruments, and food, I had reluctantly +to resign my long-meditated feat, and leave the actual summit of +Kilima-njaro still virgin. + +Moreover, my time for collecting at these high levels was coming to an +end. Although I had soon got inured to the climate myself, and felt +invigorated by the frosty nights, my poor followers, accustomed to the +greenhouse-atmosphere of Zanzibar, were suffering cruelly from the cold. +To clothe forty men in warm blankets was beyond my resources, and to +induce them to live for a long period lightly clad in garments of +cotton, in a temperature which was often below the freezing-point, +required, to say the least, considerable persuasion; but my chief +anxiety arose, not so much from their unwillingness to remain a few +weeks longer at an altitude of 10,000 feet, as from their unfitness to +do so. Several of the men were suffering severely from bronchial +affections; one or two had had touches of pleurisy; of chilblains and +rheumatism all complained; so that I began to fear that, unless I moved +to lower levels, I should have no men left to carry my loads. Therefore, +after deliberating with the head-men of the caravan, I prepared to +evacuate my highest station on Kilima-njaro at the end of October, and +following a new route through unexplored country, return to my +settlement at Taveita. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + THROUGH THE FORESTS OF KIMAWENZI AND THE COUNTRY OF ROMBO. + + +To have retraced my steps to Maraṅu, now that my residence near the snow +was at an end, would have been simply madness. I had made use of the +Sultan as far as he could aid my mission, and now to re-enter his +dominions and place myself voluntarily in his power would be nothing +less than walking into a trap from which an exit could only be obtained +by an enormous ransom. According to Čaga fashion I should simply be kept +as a hostage till I had made good my promises and induced Sir John Kirk +to satisfy the utmost demand of my greedy captor. Consequently I cared +little for the unknown risks of a new road, provided I fell not again +into the _cul-de-sac_ from which I had issued safely to ascend the +mountain. Moreover, I wished to see something of the eastern flank of +Kilima-njaro; so after much consultation of my map and discussion with +my head-men I fixed on a track running round the base of Kimawenzi and +descending to the plain through Rombo, past the crater-lake, Čala, and +along the banks of the Lumi river, which flows through Taveita. + +During the whole time of our stay on the upper slopes of Kilima-njaro +our native guides from Maraṅu had remained with us, of course receiving +pay for their employment. They always believed that we should return +with them to their grasping Sultan, and I kept them in ignorance of my +real plans, intending quietly to part company with them where our two +roads diverged, and not forewarn them of my determination to avail +myself of another route back to Taveita. Together we started, therefore, +when all had been made ready; and leaving our alpine settlement with its +grassy slopes and forests of arboreal heaths, we took the path running +eastwards round the upper slopes of the mountain. Descending a few +hundred feet we found ourselves in comparatively dense and luxuriant +forest, with a rich undergrowth, contrasting strongly with the bleak, +grassy steppes only a trifle higher in altitude. Further on we arrived +at the old camping-place of our former upward journey, at a height of +9000 feet. Here we remained to rest and eat our midday meal, gathering +up our energies for the rather critical task that lay before us; for, +having resolved on no account to return to Maraṅu, we must now part +company with the men who had hitherto led us, and, relying in future on +our own powers of pathfinding, strike out an independent route to the +desired goal. As my head-men were somewhat diffident of their own +qualities in “fore-louping” (as the Boers call it in the south), I +undertook to lead the caravan back to Taveita by compass and map. +Accordingly, little heeding the cries and mocking laughter of our +guides, we started confidently along a faintly-marked path running +eastward. At first all went well, but soon the path died away, and not +daring to stop or hesitate, I plunged boldly into the trackless bush. +The men followed meekly, but the absence of any road rendered their +progress very trying. After about an hour of struggling through the rank +forest undergrowth, during which I keenly felt my responsibility, we +emerged on a little open grassy patch. Here all, uninvited, put down +their loads, and very free criticism on our mode of travel was uttered. +To add to our disagreeables, incessant rain had been falling since two +o’clock. Whilst stopping here to rest and hold a consultation, like a +despotic monarch who feels his power threatened and seeks to appease his +subjects by granting them a constitution, I invited all the men to take +part in our deliberations, and suggest the best course to be followed. +At this juncture the native guides arrived, having followed in our +footsteps, anxious to see the result of our self-guidance. Wishing to +transfer my responsibility to other shoulders, I offered them a present +of cloth if they would lead us through the trackless forest to the +precincts of Rombo; whence I knew we could find our way unaided to +Taveita. They consented, and once more we entered the dusky woods, +following a zigzag course by means of the rough paths which elephants +had just made. Often the long-stemmed flowers, and crushed, stained +grass would be slowly rising up again erect from the prostrate position +into which they had been trampled by the feet of the cumbrous +proboscidians, and their smoking dung would bestrew the track, showing +how recently these lords of the forest had preceded us. Indeed, from +time to time they would make their presence known by sonorous +trumpeting, but as they were quite aware of our proximity they took good +care to conceal their huge bodies. The undergrowth was so dense that you +might have touched an elephant in your gropings before you saw him; but +above this dense tangle of six or seven feet in height rose the straight +smooth trunks of superb trees; indeed, the timber I saw here was +exceptionally fine. + +The gloom of the forest was intensified by the enormous masses of +orchilla-weed which grew thickly on the upper branches of the trees, in +such a manner as to suggest a grey-green cloth being thrown over the +foliage. The density of the woodland growth was almost appalling; we +felt like insects creeping and twining through the interstices of the +mighty trunks. As we preferred to go whither the elephants had forced a +way, our course was naturally an erratic one, and several times the men +lay down in despair to pant and rest, declaring that night would still +find us groping in the forest maze—nay, that should the guides +maliciously desert us, we might wander for ever in this leafy labyrinth +till we either perished at the hands of skulking robbers or fell an easy +prey to angry elephants or hungry leopards. In vain I pointed to my +compass and said that should the guides fail us, _that_ was an unerring +pathfinder; the men shook their heads despondently and said it might be +in “Ulaya”—_my_ country—but in the land of the savages—“Ušenzi”—it +availed nothing. I must confess the dull green gloom of the forest was +very oppressive. The mists of the mountain permeated the foliage and a +continual moisture dripped down on us. We were all wetted through every +covering. Our clothes were ponderous with absorbed water—it was +fatiguing to stagger under their weight. Disagreeable noises—all very +easy to account for, but full of vague terror to my superstitious +following—broke the stillness of the rank depths of vegetation wherein +we stumbled and crept along. The hyraxes uttered their thrilling, +half-human, wailing cry. Unseen birds sounded their sonorous notes like +a tolling bell. Ear-piercing shrieks came from some hunted monkey, +pursued, maybe, by a leopard. Elephants sent their discordant nasal +trumpeting vibrating harshly through the glades. Each porter, as he +clutched his load with one hand and with the other pushed aside the +interwoven boughs, turned his head uneasily from side to side, dreading +the sudden rising from the bush of some terrible unimagined foe. + +Strangers to this tremulous suspense, the Maraṅu guides hacked away a +bush here, pushed aside a branch there, leapt over fallen tree-trunks, +slid down glissades of sodden earth, glided through thorny groves, and +paying no heed to our sighs and groans, our pleadings for repose, our +cruel stumbles and headlong falls, passed imperturbably through the +trackless woods, and cared seemingly little whether we followed them or +not. Nevertheless at whatever cost we kept them in sight, and at length +to our universal relief quitted this gloomy region of dense, dank forest +at about half-past five in the afternoon, and emerged quite suddenly and +unexpectedly upon a beautiful parklike country of grassy hillocks, +undulating plains, running streams, ferny hollows, and tidy copses. +Hereabouts we camped out, and I, ravished with the beauty of the scenery +and with the magnificence of the view (for I was still at an altitude of +8500 feet, and could see far and wide round the mountain), set myself to +work to create in imagination a fair city of civilization which should +rise on these grassy slopes and dominate the cultivable lands below. +Here, on these two hillocks, I would build my twin forts, and here +should be my terraced vineyards, there cornfields and gardens, and there +a handsome stone house, my preliminary palace. As I mused thus, the +sinking sun emerged from a curtain of cloud, and shed a wonderful rosy +radiance over the beautiful scene. The distant valley of the Ruvu, with +its sinuous lines of green forest, the mountain mass of Ugweno, with +hills and hillocks in all directions, the nearer forests, the natural +lawns sloping downwards towards the cultivated zone; and, lastly, the +awful, jagged, snow-streaked and spotted Kimawenzi rising to the +north—all were irradiated with a tender, smiling light, the very shadows +of which were attenuated and softened. Then, until purple darkness fell +upon the scene, I stood on one of the seven hills of my African Rome, +and pondered on the possibilities of its existence. + +On the succeeding day we discovered early in the morning that our guides +had really and actually deserted us, so we were left entirely to our own +resources for finding the way to Taveita. However, I was confident, and +the men scarcely less so, for no matter how distant our goal might be, +we at least could see it in the valley before us. Nevertheless, not +wishing to pursue a course which would lead us through Mamba, Mwika, or +the inhabited regions on the south-western flank of Kimawenzi, I was +obliged to direct myself more to the northward, and consequently out of +the shortest route to Taveita. We travelled for hours through a +delightful country made by Nature for a European settlement, and +singularly English in look, with open grassy spaces, which seemed in the +distance like ruddy cornfields, and shady woods and copses full of fine +timber. Plenty of running streams of clear water intersected this gently +sloping, almost level plateau, which, although such a tempting Arcadia, +was entirely uninhabited, save by buffaloes and elephants. The average +elevation of this country was between 8000 feet and 9000 feet, and the +temperature, consequently, almost cool, ranging from forty-three degrees +at night to seventy degrees in the midday warmth. After some four hours’ +walking from our camp, we crossed the long ridge that marks the southern +flank of Kimawenzi, and began to descend the eastern slope of the +mountain. Soon we emerged on a kind of heathlike country, and then +looked forth on a splendid view stretching from Mwika to the mountains +of Bura and Ukambani (the Kiulu range), with Lake ǰipé on one hand and +the River Tzavo on the other. At our feet lay the banana groves of the +inhabited belt of Useri and Rombo. + +To the latter we directed our descending steps, and soon encountered in +the bush some of its stray inhabitants, a savage-looking set, probably +posted there to give notice of attack from the dreaded Mandara, who has +occasionally visited the country on his slave-raiding expeditions. These +men fled precipitately at our approach, and raised a cry of warning to +the inhabitants below, the result being that on entering their territory +we found them armed to the teeth, and resolved to resist our further +approach. After a little parleying—which was conducted under +difficulties, for they clearly spoke a very different dialect to the +ordinary Ki-čaga tongue—we gave a small present in cloth, and requested +to be shown the road to Taveita. They accepted my gift somewhat +sullenly, and made no move to guide us through their country. However, +holding the men well in hand, I quietly pursued our downward journey, +always keeping in view the distant green streaks in the valley below, +which marked the windings of the River Lumi. Our progress was repeatedly +hindered and occasionally stopped by the ever-increasing and turbulent +force of savages who pressed upon our flanks, clamouring for a division +of our goods. “Ngubo! Ngubo!” was their sole cry, and an archaic one, +for “Ngubo” is the oldest known form of a widespread Bantu word for +cloth or covering. In Zulu it is “Ngubo” as the Wa-rombo have it, but in +most other East African tongues it is “Nguo” and “Nguwo.” + +I flung them a few yards of red cloth as a present to their sultan. This +acted like the articles which are thrown to pursuing wolves from the +inmates of a hunted sledge—it served for a moment to delay their +oncoming, and I had time to form my somewhat scattered men into line and +press resolutely on towards the plain. The natives followed with +increased hostility, mistaking our resolute retreat for a cowardly +flight. As a matter of fact I did not much fear them in spite of their +numbers, as they carried no guns and were but armed with ill-made +spears, so that in case of hostilities I could doubtless have +slaughtered many; but my anxiety the whole time I lived on Kilima-njaro +was to avoid war and bloodshed. Although in a pitched battle you may +easily gain the advantage, yet the news that you have resorted to +violent methods to attain your end spreads through a district like +wildfire, and everywhere you are received with deep distrust or open +enmity. I am of the opinion of Mr. Thomson that it is preferable to +suffer many indignities sooner than be the first to shed blood. I also +agree with him that it is insanity to travel about Africa unarmed. Never +anywhere was that saying truer, “Si vis pacem para bellum.” So we held +on our way resolutely and quietly, paying no heed to the verbal +provocations of the Wa-rombo. When at length we emerged on the open +country, I turned and saluted them with some very vigorous terms in +Ki-čaga, and they for a while dispersed; afterwards for some distance +hanging on our heels like hyenas ready to snap up any loiterer or +lag-behind. + +The country of Rombo, from what I could see of it, is not very +attractive in its natural features. Indeed, I was informed afterwards +that its unhappy people, harried on all sides by Wa-čaga and Masai, were +only allowed to live there because the land was not worth taking +possession of. The rainfall, so abundant and constant on other parts of +the mountain, is here strangely and partially deficient. The perennial +watercourses flowing from the base of Kimawenzi either turn to the +south-east or north-east, thus neglecting the due-eastern slope of the +mountain, on which Rombo is situated. True, the land is deeply scored +and intersected by a few profound ravines, but these are but the beds of +occasional torrents which flow only after heavy rains in the uplands. +The River Lumi, even, dries up where it nears Rombo, and its flow, +apparently, reissues farther on from an underground channel. The aspect +of the country is very dismal. Poor little withered plantations of +parched cereals or groves of stumpy, dwarfed bananas mark the few +attempts at cultivation; and outside these, there is little but stony +gorges scattered with thorny vegetation in their dry depths, and stony +hills and rolling plateaux sparsely clothed with long, dry, yellow +grass. Yet, unprepossessing though this land may be, it is likely to be +an important district in the opening up of Kilima-njaro. Not only is it +nearest to the approach from the coast, but it offers the shortest cut +to the magnificent uninhabited regions lying all round the mountain +between 6000 feet and 11,000 feet, which present the most favourable +conditions for European settlements. In all other parts of the lower +slopes of Kilima-njaro you meet with populous and arrogant little +states, which at any rate need much subsidizing before they consent to +your passage through their territories; whereas in Rombo the population +is sparse, and the natives are poor savages unarmed with anything more +formidable than ill-made spears, and unable to seriously oppose the +march of a small and resolute force. A little kindness would soon win +them over, especially if they were protected against the raids of +slave-hunters. + +All through this somewhat trying day we had never paused in our descent +to eat or drink. We were agreed that no halt would be satisfactory till +we reached the banks of the River Lumi—“our river,” as we affectionately +called it—and camped by its running waters. As we slowly wound our way +over stony hillocks and grassy downs, followed by the waspish Wa-rombo, +our gaze concentrated itself on the distant line of dark green forest +which curved across the yellow plain like a narrow ribbon, ending in the +great blot of verdure which marked the site of Taveita. + +On our way we had an interesting view of Čala, a little lake filling up +one of the minor craters on the mountain-side. + +About seven in the evening we reached the banks of the Lumi only to +find, to our cruel disappointment, it was absolutely devoid of water. In +dumb despair we gazed on its grey boulders and parched sand. Then a +little reflection convinced me that we were needlessly despondent. I +had, in my previous rambles, followed the Lumi to within a few miles of +where we had just arrived, and left it still a flowing river; +consequently a little further on water must be found. So again we took +up our burthens and limped wearily along the banks of the stream. After +an hour’s tramp, one of my men gave a cry of delight and pointed to a +stagnant pool of green water in the river-bed. All but myself rushed +down and drank greedily, but I preferred restraining my thirst till we +obtained a purer fluid. Soon the pools in the dry stream-course became +more frequent, then a tiny thread of water began to flow, and at length +the whole river, as it were, issued ready-made from the earth. Evidently +during the dry season the Lumi filters underground for part of its +course and is only a visible river after the rains. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 60.—Lake Čala. +] + +Finding another of those charming peninsulas so often described in these +experiences—a lovely glade with spreading trees and smooth turf, nearly +surrounded by a loop of the stream—we resolved to make our camp here. +Fortunately a brilliant moon dispelled the darkness and materially aided +our work. The neck of dry land connecting us with the outer plain was +carefully cut off with a formidable hedge of thorns, and secure in our +isolated camp, we might disregard the prowling Wa-rombo who still +skulked without. A guard was set, but no attack disturbed our heavy +slumbers. However, the next day we had no sooner started than bands of +savages began to form on the rising slopes of the mountain and came +running towards us at a half-trot. This time matters looked serious. +There were men armed with guns as well as Wa-rombo with spears and +shields. The history of it was this (as I afterwards learned). When our +guides had deserted us halfway to Rombo they had hastened back to Maraṅu +to inform their master of my breach of faith. Resolved now to strip me +of all my goods and avenge ancient grudges, the young chief despatched +an army of a hundred men armed with Sniders to intercept me and crush my +little force. They never imagined I could find my way alone, and +expected to encounter me still wandering hopelessly in the forests of +Kimawenzi. However, on arriving at my former sleeping-place it was +ascertained that I had taken the direction of Rombo. To Rombo, +therefore, they came, and angrily questioned its inhabitants. These +savages informed the Maraṅu soldiers that I had forced my way through +their country that very day and was now camped by the Lumi. At earliest +dawn the Maraṅu and Rombo hordes came in search of us, hoping to catch +the caravan on the march and surprise it when the porters should be +scattered singly along the track. We were, however, already prepared for +a possible attack, and walked forward across the plain in a compact body +of forty resolute men. As soon as it was seen that the enemy was gaining +on us I sent all the porters carrying burthens to the front, and +assembled in their rear those who were well armed and acted as guards. +In this order we continued our march. When within a hundred yards the +foremost men of Maraṅu called on me to stop and parley. I bade the +porters who were loaded to walk on slowly along the track whilst I and +my guards halted to hear what the enemy had to say. The parleying, +however, was but a ruse to gain time. No sooner had I turned towards the +foe, to question them, than they started up from their recumbent +position and fired a volley at us with their guns. Although the bullets +went harmlessly whistling over our heads, I was enraged at this +treachery and saw now it was high time that I taught them a lesson. Too +much forbearance would seem to them timidity. So I gave the word and we +took careful aim and fired. The savages had already thrown themselves +flat to await our return fire; nevertheless two of them were wounded. +Then as we advanced for a further discharge, the entire force rose to +its feet and fled precipitately, and we naturally did not trouble to +pursue. The entire result of this encounter was that one of my men had +been slightly wounded by a Rombo lance and (as we afterwards +ascertained) one Maraṅu soldier received a scalp wound and another had +his arm broken by a bullet. Then we resumed our march and ultimately +reached Taveita without any further incident. + +Here I rejoiced to find all well and thriving. Abdallah had purchased +five young ostriches, which, together with my Muscovy ducks, pigeons, +fowls, goats, and sheep, made up a curious farmyard. A large space had +been cleared and sown with crops, and a tall fence surrounded my +domain. The day following my arrival I purchased seven more ostriches +at an ell of cloth apiece; thus hoping to lay the foundation of an +ostrich farm. After three days of rest I set out on a trip which I had +meant to extend to the northern side of Kilima-njaro, but owing to the +smallness of my band of followers I was not able to succeed, as the +Masai were prepared to give trouble, and I had not goods enough to +satisfy their demands. I penetrated first to Useri, a Čaga state on +the north-eastern slope of Kimawenzi, but the Sultan of that place +refused resolutely to see me, alleging that I was a powerful magician +(_teste_ those never-to-be-forgotten fireworks!), and would certainly +bewitch him if we came in visual contact. Nevertheless, he did not +wish to quarrel with me, and gave his subjects permission to trade. I +remained here three days, and bought provisions, skins, rhinoceros +horns, and two tusks of ivory. Had I had the goods with me for barter +I might have traded advantageously in the last commodity, for the +Wa-seri not only obtain many tusks from the elephant pitfalls which +they make in their country, but also buy it from the Endorobo,[31] or +helot tribes of the Masai, who camp in the vicinity of Useri at +certain seasons of the year. I proceeded about four miles further in +the direction of Kimangélia, but received the news from a retreating +Swahili caravan that the Masai in the vicinity of that place had +quarrelled with the traders and refused to allow any caravan to pass +them. As I was not strong enough to force my way, I returned once more +to Taveita and busied myself with collecting in the vicinity. + +I also received a deputation of Maraṅu and Rombo people, who came to +make peace after our skirmish of the week before. They declared it had +arisen through a misapprehension of my intentions. They now feared that +having offended me I might bewitch their land from a distance, and +wished to exchange presents, because I was a powerful magician, who +turned aside the bullets and spears of his enemies. I laughed at all +pretensions to supernatural power, but tried to explain that it was +always silly to quarrel with white men, who must get the better of any +struggle, not because they practised witchcraft, but because they had +better guns than black men and knew how to use them. I was glad to hear +that no lives were lost, and would willingly make friends. Accordingly I +accepted a small bullock they had brought and gave them in return gay +cloths and bags of beads with which they retreated joyfully, extolling +the power and generosity of the white man, who never made slaves. + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + LAKE ǰIPÉ AND THE ROAD TO GONǰA. + + +The time was now approaching when I should be obliged to leave Taveita +and return to the coast. + +My six months on Kilima-njaro were coming to an end, and the funds for +the expedition also. Unless more money were granted me I should have to +discharge my porters, pay their wages, wind up my affairs, and return to +England, for living in Central Africa is no more possible without money +or money’s worth than it is elsewhere. Nevertheless, I could not bear to +think I was quitting the country, and felt so hopeful and convinced that +help in some shape or form would await me in Zanzibar, and that in a few +weeks I should be back in Taveita with renewed zeal for my work, that I +did not like to abandon my comfortable and well-ordered settlement to +the wild beasts and white ants, especially as the ground it was built on +was my own, purchased from the natives of Taveita. Therefore, after a +little deliberation, finding, moreover, that I had many goods and +implements of husbandry which I could neither carry to the coast, for +want of porters, nor bring myself to throw away; and disliking also to +abandon my goats, fowls, ducks, pigeons, and tame ostriches, I finally +decided to leave four men in charge of the settlement, who should await +my return during three months, and if I did not then arrive, pack up as +many of the things as they could carry, and accompany one of the Swahili +caravans returning to the coast. + +[Illustration: + + _H. H. Johnston, del._ _London; Kegan Paul, Trench, & Co._ + _E. Weller._ +] + +These and other preparations made, I took a most reluctant farewell of +my pretty town, and also of the affectionate and friendly Wa-taveita, +who entreated me to return very soon and dwell amongst them. I then made +a short march of four hours to the northern corner of Lake ǰipé, and +camped out there, remaining a few days in the vicinity of this piece of +water in order to observe the denizens of its banks. Lake ǰipé is in +reality a shallow backwater of the Lumi river, which afterwards becomes +the Ruvu, and enters the Indian Ocean at Pangani. It is, in short, a +tiny edition of the Albert Nyanza, about twelve miles long by three to +four broad. On the southern bank the mountains of Ugweno rise grandly to +heights of 6000 and 7000 feet, contrasting markedly with the opposite +shore, whereon we were encamped, which is a flat plain, but little +raised above the lake. + +Ugweno is a continuation of the long chain of high mountains which +border the northern aspect of the Ruvu valley, starting with Usambara on +the coast and continuing through the Pare and Ugweno range to the base +of Kilima-njaro. The countries of Ugweno and Usaṅga (a district lying +towards Pare) are rich in iron ore, which is smelted by the Bantu +inhabitants—Wa-gweno and Wa-saṅga—and sold to the Čaga smiths in the +shape of pig-iron. The Wa-gweno seem anciently a division of the Čaga +tribes, and their language is much the same. The country they live in, +being healthy and well supplied with water and very sparsely inhabited, +is well fitted for European settlements. + +The vicinity of Lake ǰipé is much frequented by herds of game and its +waters are teeming with big fish, principally siluroids and cyprinoids. +Hippopotami and crocodiles are plentiful. Numbers of water-birds haunt +the reedy shores—storks, egrets, pelicans, spur-winged plovers, ducks, +and Egyptian geese. The country round this lake is a first-rate district +for sport, but hunters should camp near the River Lumi, for the water of +ǰipé is disgusting, and only drinkable after it has been well boiled and +skimmed. As there is no current through the lake—for the river that +flows in, turns round and flows out again—and as this stagnant pond lies +exposed to the continual rays of an ardent sun, and harbours, moreover, +large numbers of hippopotami, who make the lake like their tank at the +Zoological Gardens, the water drawn from it is a filthy fluid, warm, +green, and slimy. My men drank of it in large quantities, nevertheless, +without harm, but for myself I had it boiled and boiled for hours, and +the green scum or froth taken off. I was obliged to avail myself of this +liquid, as after leaving the lake we should be obliged to travel for +thirty-five miles without water. + +[Illustration: + + KILIMA-NJARO SEEN FROM LAKE ǰIPÉ + + To face page 298. +] + +From the southern borders of ǰipé we obtained our last view of +Kilima-njaro. The craterous shape of the larger peak, Kibô, was very +apparent. It was towards the close of a peaceful afternoon, just as I +was turning to quit the lake, that I had my farewell glimpse of this +king of African mountains. The sky had become a very pale blue with the +descending sun. The whole upper part of Kilima-njaro, with its double +peaks, was on view. Soft grey clouds slept on the middle slopes, and at +the base of the vast mountain lay the numberless hills and hillocks of +cultivated čaga. Then came the dense forests of the Ruvu and the Lumi, +the silver breeze-swept waters of ǰipé, a low promontory covered with +spear-grass, and in the foreground a muddy, oozy shore dotted with +egrets and plovers. Before turning away to commence a long stage in our +journey to the coast I hastily sketched in this picture on my +sketch-block. + +The sudden change from the bracing climate of Kilima-njaro to the heat +of the plains had at first affected my health, much as a rapid +transition from the temperate regions to the tropics might do, and I had +a slight touch of fever at ǰipé, which laid me up. As this was, however, +an unpleasant locality in which to remain, my men proposed to carry me +in a hammock until I should have regained my strength. To that I +consented, and as the walk before us to the next camping-place was long +and waterless, it had been also determined that we should defer our +departure from the further extremity of the lake until five o'clock in +the afternoon, and take advantage of the brilliant moon to pursue our +course in the cool hours of the night. Accordingly an hour before +sunset, when I had finished my hasty sketch of Kilima-njaro, I got into +my hammock, which was carried by Faraǰi, the head-cook (an old Congo +man) and Hamis Hadi, a stalwart porter of the Yao tribe, and for a short +time went over the ground at a swinging pace, all the caravan keeping up +with me, for it was fine “going” country. We were directing our course +S.S.E. over a plain of great extent, absolutely level, without a rut, +and covered with fine turf, like a vast lawn. Here and there a bushy +tree broke the monotony. We saw a troop of young ostriches walking +quietly about like well-behaved children, unaccompanied by any parental +guardian, while herds of buffaloes and many beautiful antelopes were +grazing on the sweet short turf in this brief hour of waning sunlight. +Towards nightfall it began to rain, and the rising moon was hidden. I +had to leave my hammock and struggle along on foot, wading desperately +through slush and water, falling into ant-bear burrows, and weighed down +with my heavy, rain-soaked greatcoat, which I wisely wore to avoid a +wetting nearer the skin. We could not stop to rest until the rain should +cease, for the drenching was best undergone in motion; nevertheless, it +was dreary work pounding along up to our ankles in liquid mud, unable to +see more than a few yards ahead, and only knowing the path from what was +not path by its having become the bed of a torrent. The rain descended +in a terrific downpour, which nearly beat us to the earth, but amid all +my dreariness I felt thankful at reflecting that my baggage was safely +packed in air-tight cases which water could not penetrate. About eight +o’clock the worst of the storm seemed over, and though it drizzled a +little while longer, the clouds were rapidly dispersing and giving way +to the brilliant moon. We sought refuge under a low tree and camped out. +The men, although soaked and wearied, behaved very well, and tried to +cheer each other with small witticisms. All crowded anxiously round +Cephas, our clever second cook, who could make a fire when no one else +could, and who now had obtained a little dry wood by breaking in pieces +the various dead branches lying about and extracting the dry pith from +the centre. With this as a commencement he soon lit a fire, and when the +joyous flames leapt up from the crackling, spitting wood, exclamations +of glad relief burst from every one’s lips, and we all extended our cold +wet hands to the blaze. Soon my servant, Virapan, brought me a bowl of +hot and savoury soup, and after swallowing this I crept into my nice dry +bed and slept a delicious dreamless sleep until two in the morning, when +Kiongwe aroused me to go on. Then, with many a dismal yawn and sigh, we +struggled along towards a dome-shaped hill, principally of limestone, +and partially covered with forest. Reaching its base at about daybreak, +we then turned southward and walked over a low plateau, which shut out +Kilima-njaro and ǰipé for ever from our view, while, on the other hand, +we looked towards the hills of Ngurungani and the fine mountains of +Pare. The country on the northern slope and on the summit of the +tableland was exceedingly desolate and barren, but on the descent +towards the south, and in the basin-like hollow below, the soil was +rich, black, and alluvial, and green grass grew luxuriantly, together +with some lovely lilies, whose white blossoms starred the prairie in all +directions. Here I saw more game at once than I have ever seen in +Africa. It was a sportsman’s paradise—a delicious dream of happy +hunting-grounds hardly to be realized in this life. Hundreds and +hundreds of giraffes scudded before us; herds of elands (the bulls a +deep dun colour with glossy hides that looked like satin in the noonday +sun) sauntered along, now nibbling the sweet grass, now trotting off as +we advanced. Myriads of red hartebeests, sable antelopes, mpalas, and +zebras studded the undulating plain, while a small group of ostriches +might be observed on our left-hand side, and a rhinoceros stood under +the shade of a mimosa to the right of the path, flicking his short tail +from side to side, and watching the movements of our caravan with +suspicion. Alas! they had no reason to fear me. Waterless, deadbeat, and +sun-stricken, it needed all my resolution painfully to plod along the +path, and I was quite incapable of stalking big game when I doubted if I +should have sufficient force left to carry me to our camping-place. + +About two o’clock we crossed the Ngurungani ridge, and arrived at a +stony river-bed, in which a little rainwater still remained. The men +drank greedily of it. Here in the middle of the road we saw a sheep +freshly killed, skinned, and cub up, all the gory remains being neatly +tied up in the skin. Various meanings were assigned to this unwonted +apparition; but as I once more took the road and saw the sandy path +marked with many footsteps, and with the impressions of oxen’s feet, I +said to myself, “The Masai!” The men also were of this opinion, but +thought they had passed early in the morning. Nearing our camping-place, +however, we saw smoke and heard voices, so we cautiously stopped and +waited for all the caravan to assemble. Then, united, we pressed boldly +on, although the hearts of many quaked at the thought of encountering +the most dreaded savages of Eastern Africa. Abdallah walked beside me, +and Virapan in front, and I heard the former gabbling prayers to Allah +and his Prophet as he shouldered his rifle and marched along. Virapan +and I were the first to see the Masai. We arrived at the bed of a broad +torrent, now dried up, save for occasional rock-pools, and there, in a +large basin-like hollow below the rocks on which we stood, were perhaps +a thousand men, some of whom were sitting gnawing half-cooked beef round +smouldering fires. As we emerged from the bush and our boots clattered +on the stones, they looked up, but without exhibiting any surprise or +even offering to move. I called out in lusty amiability, “Subai?” (their +form of greeting, to which the proper answer is “Iba!”), but no reply +came. The nearest among them motioned us back in a not discourteous +manner, and intimated they would come and talk to us anon. We marched +into a small enclosure of thorns and stones, overlooking the stony +hollow wherein the Masai were seated, and putting down the burthens, got +ready our twenty-eight guns for a desperate fight if necessary. Then the +Masai came, perhaps forty at once, with a leader. The leader called out +to us imperiously, “Tōtŏna!” (“Sit down!”), which we did. Then they +conferred among themselves. Some said, “Endara Elajomba!” (“Fight the +coast people”). Others said, “No, wait first.” Then they again withdrew, +and afterwards the captain and a few elder men returned bearing branches +in their hands (a sign of peace). They called on two or three of our men +to advance and confer with them, so Kiongwe, Ibrahim, and Bakari went. +After asking various questions as to who I was, where I came from, and +whither I was going, the Masai leader inquired “Had we any sickness?” +This query aroused a happy, but sadly unveracious, thought in my mind. +“Tell him,” I said to Kiongwe, in Swahili, a language the Masai did not +understand, “Tell him we have small-pox.” Kiongwe grasped the idea, and +said to the Masai captain, with well-feigned vexation, “Yes; we have got +a man suffering from the white disease” (the Masai name for small-pox). +“Show him,” the leader replied, at the same time moving several yards +off. I immediately dragged forward an Albino, who was a porter in my +caravan—a wretched pink-and-white creature, with tow-coloured hair and a +mottled skin. The Masai at once exclaimed, “Oh, this is a bad +disease—look, it has turned the man white!” Then he shouted out they had +no wish to interfere with us, nor would they take anything from our +infected goods. One concession alone they asked, and this we readily +granted, which was that we would not follow too closely on their +footsteps lest they might get our “wind” and catch the disease. And with +this they turned round, rejoined their fellows, called up their herd of +cows and their donkeys, and slowly wended their way up the hilly path. +In half an hour’s time the last Masai had disappeared, and, relieved +from our anxieties, we rushed to the water and drank. + +The camp that these warriors had been occupying offered a most curious +aspect. The great baobab-trees, just coming into pale green leaf, were +crowded with birds of prey—or rather of carrion—vultures, crows, and +marabu storks. Under the sparse shade of this rather leafless forest of +grey boughs the Masai had made their camp, near the stones of the dry +torrent’s bed. They had killed many cattle, and cast the refuse and +offal into the low bushes. On this the vultures and storks had glutted +themselves to repletion, and now perched heavily and stupidly on the +tree-tops. The smoke of the cooking-fires rose still in white columns +into the air, and brought to our nostrils acrid odours of burnt fat. +Behind all was the blue wall of the Pare hills rising high against the +western heavens, which in the approaching sunset had turned to a clear +citron yellow. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 62.—Masai Camp. +] + +Strange to say, soon after the last of the Masai had disappeared from +the scene, all these heavy carrionbirds roused themselves and flapped +away to follow the retiring army of bandits. My men informed me that +whenever the Masai are on the march they are accompanied from place to +place by a flight of vultures, storks, and crows, whom they religiously +protect, for the services they render in removing offal from their +camps. Whenever in this country you approach a shady spot, and see the +branches of the trees loaded with vultures, be sure within that grove a +party of Masai are eating roast beef or sucking the blood from a +slaughtered ox, and if you are unprepared to encounter these gentry take +warning and turn away. + +The next day three hours’ walking over a very heavy black soil—washed +down by the rains from the hills—brought us to Kisiwani, a dry river-bed +at the foot of the Pare hills. Here I was so utterly exhausted and faint +with the exertions and anxieties of the last few days, following my +touch of fever, that I had to spend half the day in complete repose in +order to recruit my strength. It was a charming spot in which to do so. +Magnificent forest trees towered high into the air; but higher still, +and cutting off half the heavens, as it were, rose the noble Pare +mountains. A soothing atmosphere of peace pervaded our camp. Hither came +no Masai, for they wisely kept aloof from the indignant attacks of the +Pare mountaineers, who had more than once given these freebooters a +sound thrashing. Nevertheless to honest men like us they were kind and +friendly. They brought us gourds full of ice-cold water from their +mountain streams, and ripe bananas, and funny little black sheep. Their +chief sent me a present and an invitation to come and see him in his +mountain home. I would have gladly done so, but I felt no confidence in +my walking powers, and I dreaded to bring on another attack of fever by +over-exertion. So I sent him several choice gifts and complimentary +messages, and said when I next came that way I would remember his +kindness to a passing stranger. + +The Wa-pare, from what I have seen of them, seem a very amiable people, +like the Wa-taveita. I take a great interest in their country, because I +regard it as one of the links of healthy land uniting Kilima-njaro—the +future sanatorium of Eastern Africa—with the coast. Twenty miles beyond +Kisiwani we came to the pleasing and fruitful district of Gonǰa, a +settlement of Wa-zeguha, ruled by sons of Semboǰa, the chief of +Usambara, a vassal of the Sayyid of Zanzibar. Here signs of coast +influence were quite apparent, and for the first time since leaving +Mombasa at the commencement of the expedition, I knew I was not among +savages. + +Gonǰa, with its clear, swift river, its splendid groves of forest trees, +its luxuriant plantations, reminded us of our favourite Taveita, and we +felt a keen sympathy with this place, which was the first inhabited spot +we had encountered in seventy miles of wilderness. At the back of Gonǰa, +in the Pare hills, the scenery was enchantingly lovely—wooded crags, +rich valleys, emerald-green banana groves, rippling streams, and +splendid waterfalls, one of which, another Staubbach, gave rise to the +river which encircles the town. We could see its grey-white shoot of +descending water in the distance, too far off to show the changing light +of motion, and apparently as unvarying and immobile as the blue +hill-side, just like a photographed waterfall. On a little peninsula +backed by hills, and nearly surrounded by a loop of the river, the +rambling village of Gonǰa is built, the whole congeries of houses being +encircled with a tall fence of euphorbias and other prickly shrubs. The +dwellings are fashioned much after the style of the native houses on the +coast—structures of wattle and clay, generally divided into several +apartments. + +We found the chief and notables dressed like respectable Arabs, and they +greeted us with Arab salutations. I ascertained that not only they but +the people they governed were great linguists. They spoke Ki-zeguha, +Ki-pare, Ki-swahili, a little Arabic, and Masai. The latter language +they were quite versed in, and for some hours I sat down with my +note-book adding considerably to the information I had already amassed. + +The upper classes in Gonǰa, and especially those connected with the +family of the chief Semboǰa, look like Arabs in their complexion and +physiognomy. They have, however, woolly hair. I questioned them as to +their origin, but they did not acknowledge Arab intermixture; +nevertheless, they are evidently a cross breed, though the intermixture +may be and probably is ancient. They are the outpost of—may I call it +civilization?—and Mohammedanism in this part of Africa. Here one’s life +is _quite_ safe; here no presents are asked for, and here money is taken +and understood. How curious is the spread of the influence of a strong +government! Since the days that India has been well governed under +British rule, her commerce and her currency have begun to extend +themselves widely over Eastern Africa, from Somali-land to Natal, and +here in the market-place of Gonǰa, nearly a hundred miles from the +coast, you will find the people talking of pice, annas, and rupees, and +see the image and superscription of her Majesty the Empress of India +circulating freely among the various tribes who come hither to trade. + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + GONǰA TO LONDON. + + +Leaving this settlement of Gonǰa we walked through a beautiful and +well-forested plain, brimming over with fertility, although little +cultivated. We camped at Kihuṅgwe’s, another Zegūha chief of Semboǰa’s +family, who has made a settlement on the banks of the Mkomazi river, and +attracted to his precincts vagabonds and fugitives from all adjacent +countries. We were now at the northern entrance of a broad and level +plain which stretches between the mountains of Pare and Usambara and +slopes very gently to the River Ruvu. It is perhaps forty miles in +width, uninhabited save by a few harmless bands of Masai, whose spirit +has been broken by repeated defeats received from the Wa-sambara and the +Wa-pare, and who are now too meek to demand tribute from passing +caravans. I met some of these people on the road, and stopped to chat +with them and glean some more notes about their language. We also +encountered some of the Wa-mbugu, a curious race of cattle-keepers +dwelling at the foot of the Usambara hills. + +This plain is covered with thin shrubs and stunted trees, with +occasional patches of emerald-green grass. It is the resort of immense +quantities of game, which here finds cover, sustenance, and water, for +the Mkomazi flows through the centre. + +We found the recent spoor of elephants, and saw at different times +giraffes, elands, gnus, and cobus antelopes. I shot a cow eland, but she +managed to get away into the dense bush, and we had not time to follow +her trail. Baboons were singularly abundant in the big trees, and as for +the guinea-fowls!—I never saw the like in any part of Africa. Altogether +this Mkomazi valley teemed with life, and would doubtless prove as fine +a hunting-ground as Ṅguruṅgani, or the vicinity of Lake ǰipé. + +As we approached Mazindi, the capital of King Semboǰa, the forest trees +grew loftier and richer in foliage, and the ground began to change from +the flat plain to a succession of ridges and low hills. We were, indeed, +approaching the verge of Usambara; in fact a kind of “undercliff,” lying +at the foot of those extraordinary mountains which towered from 4000 to +7000 feet above the plain. In all my varied African experiences, in the +Atlas Mountains of Algeria, in the Chella range of Southern Angola, on +Kilima-njaro, or elsewhere, I have never seen anything so unique and +strangely imposing as the western aspect of Usambara. Imagine giant +cliffs of granite and limestone rising nearly like a sheer wall 4000 +feet and more from the plain. The ascent _looks_ impossible, and one +imagines a descent might only be performed by lowering oneself from the +top with several thousand feet of rope. At the back of this giant +barrier of granite there lies a lovely land of forests, streams, and +mountain meadows, wherein reside—strange as it seems to us who wander in +this savage wilderness!—Englishmen, labouring hard to spread all that is +best in religion and civilization among the docile inhabitants. Scarcely +more than forty miles in a direct line from where we are gazing over +Usambara, are European houses, churches, schools, dispensaries, and, I +dare say, tennis-courts and cricket-grounds. + +The thought that civilization was so near us rendered me impatient with +the wilderness which, for a wonder, began to lose its potent charm. I +hurried along the red track, and gazed so fixedly towards our goal, a +distant clump of huts and stone walls, which is called Mazindi, that I +bestowed but little observation on the surrounding landscape. +Nevertheless I could not but notice the numbers and numbers of handsome +hyphœne[32] palms that lined the way. We walked through a stately grove, +which, but for the different species of palm, reminded me of Elche in +South-Eastern Spain. My men could not resist stopping to gnaw the +gingerbread-like fruit of the hyphœne, and so I got far ahead of them +and arrived alone at the gate of Mazindi. + +Women were returning from the river with their filled pitchers +gracefully poised on the head. Their faces were pleasing, and their +complexions a clear olive—I was just going to write “evidently from Arab +intermixture,” but I hesitate. The subject of the origin of these +Usambara people is rather a complicated one, and their lightness of +complexion seems to be due to some other cause than a strain of Arab +blood. I cited this as the reason why the Wa-zegūha of Gonǰa were so +different to the negro type, but I did so in despair of any other +solution, and because I knew that the Wa-zegūha on the coast had for +centuries come into contact with the Arabs; but with the Wa-sambara, +whom I first met here in Mazindi it is different. The Arabs had +penetrated very little into the hills and valleys of Usambara, so +difficult of entry in the opposition of a sturdy people, and therefore a +theoretical cross with them would not satisfactorily account for the +yellow skins and fine features of _some_ of the Wa-sambara. Possibly the +aboriginal mountaineers, who preceded the Bantu invasion, were allied to +the Galla or Masai in race, and have largely transmitted their +characteristics to the modern inhabitants. + +There are, as it were, two towns of Mazindi: one, built on the steep +rise of the undercliff, and simply the residence and court of Semboǰa, +the chief; and the other a regular rambling African village in the plain +below, surrounded by banana groves and a dense euphorbia hedge. There +are besides many gipsy-like encampments of Masai, and even temporary +“towns” of those cattle-keeping rovers, who have, after years of border +warfare, made friends with Semboǰa, and are gradually changing in +character from restless thievish nomads to honest settled +agriculturists—in short, here you may see Masai in the process of +becoming “Wa-kwavi,” as the Swahili traders call them. Far too much has +been made of this slight distinction. One man has written a vocabulary +of “Kwavi,” and another of “Masai,” and each ignored the fact that they +were independently treating one identical tongue. Of course other +grammarians and generalizers followed suit like parrots, and so you see +the Masai family of languages solemnly divided into two main branches:— + +(_a_) Masai, + +(_b_) Kwavi; + +which would be as silly as announcing that the English “languages” +offered two distinct groups— + +(_a_) Cockney, + +(_b_) Provincial. + +Though the nomad Masai and the agricultural Masai (Wa-kwavi) differ so +much in habits they do not differ at all in language, other than where +they may border on Bantu settlements and borrow a few Bantu words. If +you ask the “Wa-kwavi” of Mazindi what they are, they will reply at +once, “Masai.” And if you ask a nomad Masai of the Ruvu, or elsewhere, +what he calls his congeners of Mazindi—who, perhaps, a generation ago +were fighting in the same clan—he will answer contemptuously, +“Em-barawuio,” a feminine word of not very pleasant signification.[33] +“Kwavi” is supposed to be a corrupted version of “El-oigob,” “the people +of the soil.” This is a term used in common by Masai and Kwavi, but is +more especially affected by the latter, as it implies a settled +residence. + +Though the Masai of Mazindi and the Mkomazi valley speak their language +with purity, whether agriculturists or rovers, yet in race they +certainly alike betray a mingling with alien people. In their midst are +still residing helot tribes, of undecided relationships, who may +represent the remnant of conquered and partially absorbed races, +previously owners of the land. + +High above Semboǰa’s citadel waves the bloodred Arab-flag of Zanzibar. +Semboǰa is eager to own himself a vassal of Sayyid Barghash. When I went +to see him on the morning of my arrival I found myself ushered into an +African imitation of the Oriental “divan,” a low-pitched, thatched +building, in the interior of which a low wooden seat bordered three +sides of the oblong room, the fourth side being a half-open verandah. +Many Swahili and Arab traders and courtiers were seated there, squatting +on their haunches, and imperturbably smoking. A few lazy greetings were +muttered, but I thought their tone rather insolent, and very coldly +replied. At the end of the bench, near the verandah, was a gorgeous silk +cushion and a Persian carpet. I was about to seat myself thereon, +imagining it was the guest’s place, when the Sultan, Semboǰa, suddenly +entered and shouldered me out, taking me by the arm and forcing me down +beside him. I was rather hurt at this cavalier proceeding, but soon +recovered my good humour when I found no offence was intended. Semboǰa +was a little Arab-like, wizen old man, with a very quizzical expression. +Two bright eyes sparkled amid his crow’s feet and wrinkles. He had +villainous teeth, stumpy, and red with much chewing of betel-nut. His +costume was quite Arab in style, and in perfect taste. His well-trimmed, +elegant feet were shod in inlaid sandals. On a finger of his right hand +was a fine signet ring, which he turned round and round as he spoke. The +most elegant Swahili came from his lips, intermingled with Arab terms +and phrases, much as, some years ago, English people had the +questionable taste to interlard their conversation with scraps of +French. Semboǰa was evidently quite a cultured man—a more civilized +Mandara. At the time I visited him he was much concerned about German +aggression, rumours of which had just begun to get abroad. He therefore +repeatedly announced himself a faithful vassal of Sayyid Barghash. When +I presented to him the letter of recommendation which the Sultan of +Zanzibar had kindly given me at the outset of my journey, he kissed the +seal reverentially, and listened attentively while it was read aloud by +his scribe. At the conclusion he turned to me and said, “All my +possessions are yours. Take what you will. What do you want?” I replied, +laughing, “Nothing but your good will, and a little fresh milk.” But +Kiongwe, who was more practical, said to Semboǰa, with a deprecatory +cough and a grin, “The white man is very fond of the flesh of sheep and +oxen.” “Good,” exclaimed Semboǰa; “in the things of Europe I am a poor +man, but of cattle, sheep, and milk I have plenty, and will not let my +guest go lacking.” Accordingly, soon after we returned to camp, some +soldiers of Semboǰa arrived with a fine fat bullock, two goats, and a +sheep, and the women of his household sent us gourds of both fresh and +fermented milk, the latter being most esteemed by Africans. As a return +for this hospitality I gave Semboǰa a 12-bore fowling-piece and 100 +cartridges, some coloured pictures which he much desired, a suit of +pyjamas, and quantities of gaudy handkerchiefs and clothes for his +wives. + +Mutually pleased, we parted with many effusive compliments, and, +refreshed by my short rest at Mazindi, I pursued my course to the +borders of the Ruvu. On reaching this turbulent stream we walked along +its banks with little incident as far as a point about fifteen miles +from the coast, called the “Mašamba,” or “plantations” of Pangani. Here, +with a few of my men, I took to a canoe and descended the river to its +mouth. After rather a dangerous voyage in this rickety “dug-out,” we +fortunately reached the beach of Pangani without a catastrophe. It was a +pitch-dark night when I landed on this unfamiliar shore, and I felt more +strange and friendless than I had ever done in the wilderness. Where +should I find a decent shelter for the night in this dirty Arab town? As +I wandered up into the bazaar I sought in vain for the face of some one +to assist me. At length I entered a better street and paused before the +stately dwelling of a rich Hindu. I entered the hall and inquired for +the master. A portly, yellow-faced man, in richly embroidered garments, +came forward. “Can you tell me,” I asked him, “where I can obtain +houseroom for the night? I have just come from the interior.” “I suppose +you had better go to the Mission,” he said curtly, and turned away. +“What Mission?” I inquired of my men. I did not know there was an +English Mission in Pangani. I knew the Universities’ Mission had +stations on other parts of the coast and in Usambara, but I had never +heard of one in Pangani. As a matter of fact they really only possessed +a house there as a _pied à terre_ used in passing to and fro between +Usambara and Zanzibar. + +I went back into the dark, dirty street, and clutched the first boy I +saw. “Now,” I said, “I will give you a rupee if you will lead me to the +English Mission.” “Orright,” he replied delightedly in broken English, +“cum ’long!” A few turns and twists in the labyrinth of sordid streets +brought us to a more open space, and we were suddenly conducted into the +courtyard of a large house. Here our guide pulled a loud, clanging bell, +screamed out something in Swahili, and left us. Immediately a +pleasant-looking man and woman came out of a side door opening on to the +yard, and giving a respectful salutation, invited us to ascend a broad +ladder which led to a terrace and some upper apartments. The woman +carried a lamp, and the man a bunch of keys. Without another word the +man opened the door of a spacious, well-lit room, and the woman placed +the lamp on the table within. “What shall I get you?” she asked. “Will +you have some _chai_ (tea)?” I said gratefully I would, and secretly +wondered all the time where were the white occupants of the house. Why +were they not made aware of my coming? Presently the woman returned, and +began to make the bed. Then she pointed to a large chest, and said, “You +must open that; only white men know how.” I looked at the box, and saw a +word in Greek letters printed on it. It was a letter lock, and I +comprehended the woman’s meaning. The key-word was printed in Greek, so +that the mission servants, I suppose, who could read English, should not +understand the mode of opening the lock, and make too free with the +contents of the chest, which, on opening, I ascertained to be all the +necessaries for the table—cruets, knives, forks, cloths, napkins, +glasses, and plates. I opened another box, and found therein well-chosen +books, reviews, and newspapers, food for the mind. And yet no host to +greet me! Really, this was like some fairy tale, where you enter an +enchanted castle whose owner has been turned into a cat, or a monkey, or +a marble statue, and find no responsible master to bid you welcome, but +yet a mute hospitality on every hand, and all your wants forestalled and +provided for. + +“Where are the Wa-zungu (white men) who live in this house?” I asked the +housekeeper as she brought my supper. “They left in the steamer two days +ago.” “Did you expect me?” I continued. “No.” “Then perhaps I am taking +someone else’s room.” “No,” she said, “there are other chambers if +others come, and all white men who come to Pangani lodge here.” + +In the best sense of the word the Universities’ Mission keeps open house +at Pangani. I did not need much pressing to make this residence my +headquarters during my short stay in the town. + +The proud Hindu whom I had met on first landing cashed my note of hand +for a large amount of rupees, and I was thus enabled to pay off my +caravan men at Pangani. They nearly all of them received presents on +account of their good conduct and fidelity. It was with some display of +feeling on both sides that I parted with my Zanzibari servitors, +especially with those who had borne all the anxieties and dangers of our +stay in Čaga, and we could only console ourselves by supposing that our +journeyings and companionship would soon be renewed. Indeed I trusted to +be back in Pangani in another fortnight, ready to return to +Kilima-njaro. + +Hiring a dirty, evil-smelling Arab dau (all were dirty and +evil-smelling, so I had little choice, except as to the particular kind +of dirt and variety of odour), I set out with a few followers and my +luggage for Zanzibar. The vessel was so leaky and old, that I am sure we +should have gone to the bottom in the least bit of a gale. Fortunately +the sea was like oil, or glass, or a millpond, or whatever simile best +produces to your imagination absolute unruffled stillness. Yet this safe +extreme of calm had its disadvantages. In vain our Swahili captain +whistled, and cried “Njōō Kazkazi!” (Come, north wind!); not a breeze +would fill our drooping sail. The men rowed with long oars, and I +suppose that had some effect; at any rate, whether it was current, wind, +or oars, we must have had some motive-power, because at four o’clock we +were off the island of Zanzibar, and by seven in the evening we had +reached the town and harbour of that name. I left my servants on board +to guard the luggage, and went alone into the lamp-lit streets. I could +hardly walk soberly, nor keep my lips from parting in exultant smiles +when I thought how I was going to take Sir John Kirk by surprise. Here +he was, if he thought about me at all, imagining that I must be still +living with Mandara on Kilima-njaro, and yet I was within but a few +strides of his house. I pictured my entry—I would hastily explain to the +servant, and run upstairs unannounced, and knock at Sir John’s door as +he was dressing for dinner. What astonishment, what laughing +explanations there would be! How we would sit and talk half the night +over our coffee and grog in the pretty drawing-room, hung with Oriental +porcelain! Thus musing, I reached the Consulate and knocked at the outer +door, which I was surprised to see closed. After a long delay, bolts and +bars were withdrawn, and a sleepy janitor looked out. “Don’t you +remember me?” I asked anxiously, “the Bwana mdogo that went to +Kilima-njaro?” “Ah, yes,” he replied, his face growing friendly with +recognition, “to be sure! but,” shaking his head sadly, “the Bwana +mkubwa (the great master) is not here.” “Not here?” I exclaimed, sick +with disappointment, “then where is he?” “Gone to Kilwa in the +steamer—won’t return till steamer does.” I turned away sadly, and +thought I might just as well have slept the night on board the smelly +dau. Then I remembered the Judge of the Consular Court lived hard by. I +went to him, and he gave me a capital dinner, told me all the news, and +alleviated my disappointment. The doctor,[34] who was dining with him, +offered me a bed, and so I was spared the fleaey quarters of a Zanzibar +hotel. The next day, whether it was the disappointment of missing Sir +John Kirk, or the sudden change to the relaxing climate of Zanzibar, I +fell ill with a feverish languor, and lost interest and appetite. I +could not even stir myself to read my letters, except so far as to +ascertain that there were no fresh funds forthcoming with which to +continue the expedition. My collections were already packed, and I had +nothing to do but to await the arrival of the homeward-bound steamer. +Fortunately, in this despondent condition, Captain Dowding, of H.M.S. +_Osprey_, then stationed at Zanzibar, ran across me and carried me off +to his pretty ship. Here, in the soothing cleanliness and comfort of a +man-of-war, I recovered my health and spirits, and waited resignedly the +steamer’s coming. Sir John Kirk just returned in time to welcome me back +and see me off, and then, regretfully, I put away Kilima-njaro, Taveita, +Kitimbiriu from my memory, and tried to look forward with pleasure to a +return to Europe. + +Our voyage from Zanzibar to Aden was a slow agony of nearly a +fortnight’s duration. The monsoon was dead against us, and the ship +was—well, not worthy of the company that owned her. The days dragged by +like continual repetition of an uneasy dream. If was too rough to write, +I had nothing to read, and even the last resource of the weary +voyager—an interest in his meals—failed me. From what I remember of the +bill of fare, tinned salmon and currant buns were the standing dishes at +every repast. I was so far fortunate in having fellow-sufferers of an +agreeable disposition, and in mutual sympathy we derived the means of +alleviating our discomforts and awaited patiently our release at Aden. + +After a few days at this unjustly vilified spot, where, perhaps, the +kind hospitality of General and Mrs. Blair caused me to view everything +too much—not _couleur de rose_, that would be out of place in Aden, +where a hot red tint preponderates—but _couleur de verdure_, I set out +for Suez, and had an exceedingly rapid passage, in the British India +S.S. _Dacca_, of under five days. Owing to the quarantine, however, this +advantage was neutralized, as I just missed the overland mail, and had +to resign myself to a week in Egypt, which was not unpleasantly spent in +looking up old friends and revisiting old haunts. + +Then travelling _viâ_ Brindisi and Calais, I reached London on the 31st +of December, 1884; in spite of all delays, not much more than six weeks +after I last saw the snow-peaks of Kilima-njaro from the reedy shores of +Lake ǰipé. + +Thus ends the history of my expedition to the snow mountain of Eastern +Equatorial Africa. + +A sketch of the results of my researches and observations in Natural +History, Anthropology, Languages, &c., will be given in the following +chapters. + + + + + CHAPTER XVII. + CLIMATE, GEOLOGY, BOTANY, ETC. + + +Elsewhere in this work I have briefly pointed out the main features in +the physical geography of the Kilima-njaro region, the dry, almost +uninhabited plains, covered with coarse yellow grass and stunted trees, +save where perennial streams induce rich vegetation; the misty +snow-capped mountains, where the damp climate causes a verdure and a +freshness reminding us of the fairest portions of our own island; the +majestic forests that clothe certain districts like Taveita, or, not far +distant, the broad flats white with natron-salt, the beds of dried-up +lakes. With a country offering such very diverse features there are +naturally wide ranges of temperature and an infinite variety of climate. +Two days’ climb on Kilima-njaro will transfer you from equatorial heat +to Arctic cold. You may change your surroundings in this short period +from the tropical vegetation of Taveita to a lifeless wilderness of ice, +rocks, and snow. Midway up the mountain there are lovely regions, mild, +equable, and moist, with a climate resembling a Devonshire summer. Here +the intense verdure and the luxuriance of fern life testify to the +constant showers of gentle rain. A few thousand feet below, in the salt +plains, you may be parched and scorched by the hot desert winds, +recalling—though in a much modified degree—the sirocco or khamsīn of +Northern Africa. In the forests of Taveita the (to me, not disagreeable) +unvarying, moist, greenhouse warmth of the tropical lowlands awaits you. +Here, perhaps, the utmost range of the thermometer during the +twenty-four hours will be ten or twelve degrees. In the outer plains it +may vary from 91° in the early afternoon to 58° before dawn. + +During the four months (June—September) of my stay in Moši, at an +altitude of 5000 feet, the average readings in the shade of the +thermometer were as follows: At noon, 71°; at 8 p.m., 60°; at 6 a.m., +58°. The lowest reading at noon was 68° (August 12th); the highest 80° +(July 3rd and June 12th). The lowest reading at night (from 10 to 12 +p.m.) was 54°; the highest 62. In my more elevated collecting stations, +at 10,000 and 11,000 feet, the lowest night temperature (recorded) was +29°; the highest at 3 p.m., 65°. At Taveita the highest registered was +90° at 3 p.m.; the lowest at 4 a.m., 60°. The highest temperature ever +recorded in the plains between Kilima-njaro and the coast was 91°. + +From these observations the reader will perceive that, for at least six +months of the year, the temperature of this portion of Eastern Africa is +quite bearable, if not in some places delightful. Nowhere is there +extreme heat, and the nights are always so far cool, that bedclothes are +supportable and sleep is refreshing. What it is for the other half of +the year I cannot personally say, as I have had no experience, but +travellers and missionaries who know the adjacent countries assure me +that the temperature is but little higher during the other months when +the wet season prevails; it is rather that the climate becomes +everywhere more equable, and the thermometer does not descend so +relatively low at night. + +The seasons that prevail over this district are also influenced by local +surroundings. Close to the coast the rains commence in October, intermit +from December to March, and return in all their force during April and +May. The true “dry season” is from June till October, during which not a +drop of rain falls, though the sky is often clouded. Between the coast +country and the elevated plateau about 100 miles inland there is a +district which is much stinted in its rainfall, except where unusually +high mountains arrest the moisture-laden winds from the Indian Ocean. +There we arrive at the most general type of African scenery—wide, +rolling savannahs, covered with grass and scattered clumps of trees. +These extend, here and there broken by mountain ranges, to the shores of +the Victoria Nyanza, and over all this district the rainfall is +generally limited to the months of November, December, March, April, and +May. On the western shores of the Nyanza Lake rain falls during ten +months of the year, a contrast to the regions lying in the same +latitudes between the Victoria Nyanza and the Indian Ocean. In all lofty +plateaux or high mountain ranges the rainfall is very different to what +it is in the plains below. Thus in Kilima-njaro it rains more or less +throughout the year. My residence there was during the dry season, yet, +nevertheless, in the month of June I had to record six days of rain; in +July, 8; in August, 9; in September, 7; in October, 8; and in the first +half of November, 5. The real rainy season is from November to May, but +the Wa-čaga inform me that there is seldom at any season a continuous +heavy downpour, but rather a greater or less frequency of showers. + +In the plains, however, near the mountain, the fall of rain is +torrential, and is equal in violence to what one usually meets with in +the tropics. + +While snow is never absent from either of the twin summits of +Kilima-njaro, and, indeed, at all times covers the upper part of the +dome of Kibô with a mantle of unvarying white, yet the quantity and +downward extent of the snows vary almost daily, even in the dry season. +After a rainy night in the lowlands, the snow on the following morning +may be seen on Kibô down to a level of 14,000 feet, and even a little +lower on the western slope, while the whole of craggy Kimawenzi is a +pinnacle of scintillating whiteness, like—to use a very hackneyed +simile—a sugarloaf. Yet if the succeeding day be warm and sunny, the +snow on Kimawenzi may shrink in twenty-four hours to a tiny patch and a +streak in between the jagged walls of black rock, while on Kibô it will +withdraw its inroads 1000 feet above the level of the day before. On the +whole, the least snow observable is during the months of July and +August. In October there is a great deal. I should think the most snow +fell, from what I hear by native report, during February and March, but +at this time, nevertheless, the natives maintain that an ascent of the +mountain is easiest, as the mists are not so frequent. Neither is the +cold so great, curiously enough. + +Snow is reported occasionally to fall on the summit of Mount Meru, the +pyramidal peak lying to the south-west of Kilima-njaro, and on its +western slope to lie for some months. The western slopes of Kibô and +Kimawenzi are much more snow-covered than the eastern, and the snow +extends to lower levels. + +Doubtless the perpetually melting snow is the cause of the many streams +which issue from the sides and base of Kilima-njaro. Nevertheless, it is +curious, considering that the snow-clad peaks slope to all the quarters +of the compass, that the streams flowing from the mountain should be +principally confined to its southern aspect. From the north of +Kilima-njaro not a stream descends, although some thirty miles from its +summits, in the plains of Ṅgiri, there is an extensive marsh, sometimes, +in the rainy season, almost becoming a lake. To the west of the +mountain, one stream, the Eṅgare Nairobi (cold water), flows to an +unknown bourn, possibly ending in the great salt marsh or swamp of +Eṅgaruka. On the eastern versant, start the various rivulets of Useri, +Kimaṅgelia, and others which go to form the Tzavo, a river entering the +Indian Ocean at Malindi. The River Lumi, flowing through Taveita and +into Lake ǰipé, also rises on the eastern side of Kilima-njaro; but none +of these streams, already mentioned, start from the higher levels of the +mountain. They either issue at once, or only well forth in full volume +at its base. Thus the Lumi is generally represented as rising some +distance up the mountain in the country of Rombo. In a measure this is +correct, for the dry bed of the stream is there, and this occasionally +in the wet season is filled by a torrent, but at most times it does not +show a drop of water, and it is only when one has quite descended the +mountain and reached a level of 2000 odd feet—the level of the +surrounding plain—that the Lumi suddenly issues full-grown from its dry +bed. A mile from where it first appears in a series of puddles, it is +scarcely fordable. On the southern side of Kilima-njaro, however, it is +very different. Here two large streams commence to flow close to the +snow-line, one rising near the base of Kibô, and the other near the base +of Kimawenzi. Myriads of other rivulets intersect this hilly region of +Čaga, which between 6000 feet and 3000 feet is well populated and under +considerable cultivation. The most perfectly-watered and most fertile +country is, strangely enough, without inhabitants, namely, the districts +lying to the south-east of Kimawenzi, described in Chapter XIV. All +these streams flowing from the south and south-east of Kilima-njaro form +the River Ruvu (Luvu of the Wa-taveita, and Ruvu of the Wa-zeguha), +which enters the Indian Ocean at Pangani. + +The greatest extent of the elevated mass of Kilima-njaro is about sixty +miles, from north-west to south-east. + +That this huge mountain-mass is nothing but the result of past volcanic +activity has been well shown by Mr. Thomson. He conjectures that +Kimawenzi was the original outlet of the volcano, but that when, in +course of time, its peak had been raised higher and higher by the +accumulation of lava-flow and ashes, and the subterranean forces sought +another and easier outlet, the mightier crater of Kibô was formed, which +ultimately towered above its older rival, and in its turn grew too high +for the escape of the imprisoned matter, which found fresh vents in the +many minor craters on the mountain-side. Now, though there are still +traditions of slight earthquake shocks having occurred within the last +two or three generations of inhabitants, there has been no further +manifestation of volcanic activity, and the great snowcrowned volcano +has probably entered a peaceful old age. + + NOTE BY PROFESSOR T. G. BONNEY, DR.SC., LL.D., F.R.S., + + PRESIDENT OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, + + _On a Small Collection of Rocks brought from the Higher Regions of + Kilima-njaro by Mr. H. H. Johnston_. + + No. 1.—Subangular fragment of smooth, compact, nearly black rock; + appears as if somewhat waterworn; fracture rather conchoidal. A + _glass-basalt_, or possibly one of the more _basic augite-anderite_. + 14,000 feet. Central ridge of Kilima-njaro. + + No. 2.—Subangular fragment, somewhat rounded in outline; appearance + like No. 1; colour rather light; and a few small scattered crystals of + whitish _felspar_ visible; more probably an _augite-anderite_. 14,000 + feet. Central ridge of Kilima-njaro. + + Nos. 3–5.—Flattened fragments, with a rather platy, more or less + scoriaceous structure; fragments of a lava flow; probably + _augite-anderite_. 14,000 feet. Central ridge of Kilima-njaro. + + No. 6.—A dull, dark-grey rock, with numerous small scattered crystals + of either _hornblende_ or _augite_. I believe the former. Probably a + _hornblende-anderite_; at any rate, it is almost certainly an + _anderite_ of some kind, and one of those which are near the basalts. + The specimen is a large slab. 14,700 feet. Base of Kimawenzi. + + Nos. 7–14.—Fragments of rock and mineral. The rocks, which are rather + decomposed, appear to be of volcanic origin, and most contain rather + large crystals of the mineral sent with them. This is a rather + peculiar form of _felspar_, the sort probably _anderite_. 14,000 feet. + Base of Kibô. + + Nos. 15, 16.—Decomposed, scoriaceous in part, with generally compact + shapes. Dark in colour. Contain rather large crystals of the + above-named _felspar_, which is probably a variety of _anderite_. + 14,000 feet. Central ridge. + + No. 17.—A crystal, fairly well-preserved, about 1½ inch long. + Apparently it is a _felspar_, but the form is certainly an exceptional + one. From its form I should suppose it to belong to the monoclinic + system, and was bounded by basal clinopinacoidal and prismatic planes; + but I do not remember to have seen a sanidine (or indeed any other + felspar) crystal of this form, and suspect it will prove to be a + _plagio-clastic felspar_. 14,000 feet. Central ridge. + + No. 18.—Rolled pebble of dark scoria, with crystals sometimes nearly + an inch long and ⅛ inch thick, of a glassy mineral, probably + _felspar_, perhaps _sanidine_. 13,000 feet. Stream-valley on southern + slope of Kilima-njaro. + + Nos. 19, 20.—Fragments less rounded, of a similar sort, perhaps less + scoriaceous. From same place as above. + + No. 21.—A similar fragment, but rather more glassy-looking, with a + “ropey” structure, and containing smaller crystals. 13,000 feet. + + No. 22.—Rounded pebble, dark _scoria_. 13,000 feet. + + Nos. 23–33.—Fragments. Varieties of a dark, more or less vitreous + _lava_, which I think in chemical composition is likely to agree + rather with an _augite-anderite_ than a _basalt_. 13,000 feet. + Stream-valley. + + No. 34.—A pebble, dark _lava_, with small grey _felspar_ crystals. + 13,000 feet. Stream-valley. + + Nos. 35–37.—A dark compact lava, containing elongated _felspar_ + crystals as above. 14,000 feet. + + Nos. 38, 39.—Rather decomposed. A dark subvitreous _lava_, with + crystals of _felspar_, similar to those from base of Kibô. 15,000 + feet. Rocks from base of Kimawenzi. + + No. 40.—Similar to preceding specimens, but rather paler in colour + softer, and more decomposed. Same locality. + + Nos. 41–43.—Stones from Kimawenzi. Similar to last-named. 14,800 feet. + +The _flora_ of Kilima-njaro is naturally interesting, as may be imagined +from the extraordinary range of climate between the eternal snows of the +summits and the hot tropical plains at the base. The vegetation on the +coast is fairly rich and luxuriant, and typical of the tropics. There +are fine forest trees—acacias, figs, baobabs, bombaxes, calophyllums, +and others, while the mango has been introduced from India, and become +wild. The pandanus grows in marshy places; cycads are occasionally seen, +and among palms the Cocoa-nut, the Borassus, the _Hyphæne thebaïca_ +(branching palm), several kinds of Raphia, Elaïs, and wild Date. At the +commencement and close of the rainy season the ground is covered with +vividly-coloured wild flowers. Blue clitoreas, blue commelynas, crimson, +white, yellow, purple, and pink hibiscuses, lovely epiphytic orchids, +white, spotted, and green, and ground-orchids of the genus +_Lissochilus_—crimson-mauve and sulphur-yellow. Altogether, as I have +often declared, Tropical Africa differs apparently from the other parts +of the tropics in displaying splendid shows of bright-coloured flowers +which really surpass anything we meet with in the temperate zone. + +Inland, however, a short distance from the coast this wealth of +vegetation ceases as we cross the somewhat dreary “Nyika,” or +wilderness, a country poorly provided with water, and uncertain in its +rainfall. But as soon as the beneficent influence of the giant mountains +makes itself felt in moisture-laden breezes and dew-dropping mists, then +Flora revives, and puts forth all her strength. In such places like +Taveita the wealth of vegetation and the grandeur of the forest trees is +inspiring. You feel carried back from our age of mean development to +some past epoch, when vegetable life was on a scale with the strange, +huge animal forms which marked the lusty earth’s creative prime. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 63.—_Musa Ensete_, a wild Banana. +] + +The lower slopes of Kilima-njaro are exquisitely green, and scarcely a +patch of earth remains uncovered, but the general aspect of vegetation +recalls our English Devonshire and not the tropics. Bushy trees crown +the hill-tops, or choke the narrow valleys. The grassy downs are covered +with patches of bracken and scented with a low-growing mint. The native +lanes are bordered with brambles and magnificent ferns, some of which +belong to common European genera. There are besides other things more +properly African which do not mind the colder climate of the uplands, +such as dracænas, aloes, strychnias, balsams, and ground-orchids. In +some of the stream-valleys the _Musa_ _Ensete_, a wild banana, grows +luxuriantly up to about 6000 feet and down to 3000 feet, or a little +lower if there is water. It is also met with in the Taveitan forest at +the base of Kilima-njaro. It seems to be in fruit at all seasons of the +year, but the bunch here illustrated was cut in September. The colour of +the ripe fruit is a pale orange. The length about 3½ inches. Inside +there are varying rows of seeds, from two to five or more, and in each +row there may be either two, three, four, five, six, or seven seeds. +Each seed is irregularly shaped, about ½ inch in diameter, and very +black. The pulp which surrounds and closely adheres to the seeds is +_orange_ in colour, when fresh, and somewhat pithy in texture, although +very glutinous. The inside of the seeds is a friable white pith, easily +rubbed into a white powder by the natives. When in this state it is used +for divinations and augury. Blown from the palm of the hand into the +air, its capricious wafting by the breeze is supposed to indicate the +direction of an expected attack during war, or the most favourable +quarter in which to travel for commerce. The thin pulp of this fruit is +just eatable; faintly sweet, but leaving a somewhat acrid taste in the +mouth like an unripe banana of the cultivated species. Its structure is +somewhat curious, for it is composed of long veins at wide intervals, +and in between are thin delicate lines running at right angles. It is +supposed by the natives that children grow up fine and tall if they eat +the pulp of _Musa Ensete_.[35] The natives recognize its relationship to +the cultivated banana. + +At a height of 7000 to 8000 feet tree-ferns may be met with, belonging +to the species _Lonchitis pubescens_ (illustrated on p. 231). Then above +that the arborescent heaths begin to appear, and the orchilla lichen +covers nearly all the forest with a grey-green veil. Between 8000 and +9000 feet the giant Senecios are met with (a new species, illustrated in +Chapter XIII.), and continue upwards till near the borders of the snow. +Gorgeous crimson gladioli, pale pink and mauve and cerulean blue irises, +grow to great altitudes; indeed, some of the flowers of the grassy +uplands between 10,000 and 14,000 feet, are particularly brilliant in +colour. There are vivid blue cynoglossums, the blush-pink everlastings, +the yellow euryops, the strange straw-coloured proteas, with red bracts +and red-leaf shoots, the smalt-coloured lobelias (_L. Deckeni_), and +many others which it would be tedious to catalogue. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 64. + + Single Fruit. Half natural size. +] + +Ferns cease to be found at a greater altitude than 13,000 odd feet. The +giant heaths above that altitude give place to smaller species, the +vegetation generally becomes more and more stunted, and therefore the +strange Senecios look the stranger from their towering in solitary +grandeur above the lowly herbs. But after an altitude of 14,000 feet is +passed they are also absent from the scene; then one is left with a few +artemisias (southernwood), heaths, and everlasting flowers, until at +length they too disappear, and there remain little red and greenish +lichens, expanses of yellow sand, lead-coloured rocks, black boulders, +and snow. + +Taking into consideration the fact that the region of Kilima-njaro is +volcanic, and therefore probably geologically modern, it must be evident +that the main features of its vegetation are of no great antiquity. It +is therefore an interesting problem as to which of the two _floras_—the +South African or the Abyssinian—was the first to reach the chilly +regions round its snow-clad peaks. It is also as yet an undecided +question as to which _flora_ is the advancing one; whether the Cape +forms are slowly penetrating northward, some of them reaching Abyssinia, +some of them arrested on the heights of Kilima-njaro, and marking a +return flow of the vegetation (and possibly of the _fauna_ also) of +Southern Africa, or whether the great invasion of Northern forms which +have so largely contributed in later epochs to the modern _fauna_ and +_flora_ of Tropical Africa is still going on. Whilst Cape genera and +species of plants penetrate to Abyssinia, Abyssinian forms have reached +the Zambesi highlands and the Drakensberg Mountains. + +The _flora_ of the higher regions of Kilima-njaro is almost equally +divided in its affinities between Abyssinia and Cape Colony. There are +besides, in the collections I have brought back, two new genera offering +no near allies; types of other genera only known hitherto in Arabia or +India; and some new species of East African genera that have apparently +modified themselves for life at high altitudes. It is interesting to +note that while some of the species whose generic home is in the hot +tropical plains have strayed up the great mountain and got used to the +cold, so others, which come from temperate regions, have ventured down +the mountain and got used to the heat. A curious instance of this is +_Artemisia afra_, which I have found at 14,000 feet near the snow, and +at 3000 feet, in close proximity to the hot plains. If plants of +temperate or cold climates could occasionally stray so far as this from +the regions and the temperature they most affect, it would materially +aid in their distribution, for the seeds of the _Artemisia_ (this plant +will be familiar to my non-scientific readers as “southernwood,” or “old +man”) might easily be borne from the jungle at the base of Kilima-njaro +to the precincts of Mount Meru, some thirty miles distant, and find on +the chilly slopes of that mountain another congenial home and +starting-place for a further colonization of unknown peaks beyond. Thus, +taking into consideration the fact that more or less high ground +connects the mountains of the Kilima-njaro district with the Cape Colony +in the south and the Cameroons in the west, it is possible to account +for the presence of many hardy genera belonging to temperate zones on +the heights of Tropical Africa without always invoking special climatic +changes and revolutions in the past. + +To the ordinary mind even of an unreflecting traveller there is +something very wonderful and imposing in the aspect presented by such a +region as Kilima-njaro. The summits clothed with virgin snow, the upper +regions bearing the humble plants of temperate climes, the heaths, the +hounds’-tongues (to call them by their familiar names), the +forget-me-nots, the buttercups, clematises, anemones, violets, and +geraniums; the bracken, polypodies, and male fern that are always +associated with the _flora_ of our chilly lands; and then, descending +through rich forests of tree-ferns, dracænas, and moss-hung mimosas to +the vegetable wealth of the equatorial zone, to the wild bananas, the +palms, the orchids, the india-rubber creepers, the aloes, and the +baobabs that are among the better-known of the myriad forms of +vegetation clothing the lower spurs and ramparts of Kilima-njaro. + + Zone above zone.... + The climates of Earth are displayed as an index, + Giving the scope of the Book of Creation, + There in the gorges that widen, descending, + From cloud and from cloud into summer eternal, + Gather the threads of the ice-gendered fountains, + Gather to riotous torrents of crystal, + And, giving each shelvy recess where they dally + The blooms of the north and its evergreen turfage, + Leap to the land of the lion and lotus!... + + + + + APPENDIX. + ENUMERATION OF THE PLANTS COLLECTED BY MR. H. H. JOHNSTON ON THE + KILIMA-NJARO EXPEDITION, 1884. + + (By PROFESSOR OLIVER, F.R.S., and _Mr. J. G. Baker_, of the Royal + Gardens, Kew.) + + + With three exceptions the new species here described belong to genera + already known from Tropical Africa. These exceptions are _Hormolotus + Johnstoni_, Oliv. (Leguminosæ), and _Astephania africana_, Oliv. + (Compositæ), both monotypic genera here first described, and _Anisotes + parvifolius_, Oliv. (Acanthaceæ), belonging to a genus known + previously only from Arabia and Socotra. + + The genus _Valeriana_ is here recorded for the first time from + Tropical Africa, I believe; but the single specimen brought home I + have not ventured to describe. A species of the genus occurs at the + Cape. A single specimen also of an _Anthoxanthum_ was gathered at + 13,200 ft. on Kilima-njaro—possibly a robust form of A. odoratum—a + second genus here first noted from E. Tropical Africa. + + Clematis Thunbergii, Steud. var. hirta (foliis + C. Wightianæ) 3–5000 ft. + Thalictrum rhynchocarpum, D. & R. 7000 ft. + Ranunculus oreophytus, Del. 8000:11,000 ft. + „ pinnatus, Poiv. 8500 ft. + Anemone Thomsoni, Oliv. 9–13,000 ft. + Uvaria leptoclada, Oliv. sp. n. Taita, 2000 ft. + Stephania abyssinica, Rich. var. tomentella Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Arabis alpina, L. 8000:10–11,000 ft. + Cardamine africana, L. 8–9000 ft. + „ Johnstoni, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 8000 ft. + Farsetia stenoptera, Hochst. forma Taita + Cleome monophylla, L. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Courbonia decumbens, Brongn. var. parvifolia „ 5000 ft. + Caylusea abyssinica, F. & M. „ 5000 ft. + Viola abyssinica, Steud. forma-foliis + cordato-rotundatis. 8–10,500 ft. + Pittosporum abyssinicum, Hochst. Kilima-njaro, 5–6000 ft. + Polygala tenensis, Kl. Maungu + Silene Biafræ, Hk. f. v. S. Burchelli + (imperfect single specimen) Kilima-njaro, 11,000 ft. + Cerastium vulgatum, L. forma 7000 ft. + Cerastium africanum Oliv. 6000:9–10,000 ft. + Drymaria cordata, W. 6000 ft. + Hypericum lanceolatum, Lam. 6–7000 ft. + „ kiboense, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 13,000 ft. + „ Schimperi, Hochst. (approaching H. + Quartiniananum, Rich., which may be only a + form of it) „ 5–6000 ft. + Sida grewioides, G. & P. 4400 ft. + „ Schimperiana, Hochst. (Dictyocarpus + truncatus, Wight) Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Abutilon asiaticum, L.? v. A. indicum, Don 4300 ft. + Pavonia Schimperiana, Hochst. 6000 ft. and upwards. + Kosteletzkya adoensis, Hochst. var. hirsuta 6000 ft. + Hibiscus vitifolius, L. 6000 ft. + „ Ludwigii, E. & Z. (of M. T. M. in Fl. + Trop. Afr. i. 203) 6000 ft. + „ gossypinus, Thbg. 6000 ft. + „ schizopetalus, Hk. f. 40–60 miles from coast. + „ platycalyx, M. T. M. Maungu. + Waltheria americana, L. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Mahernia exappendiculata, M. T. M. var. + tomentosa? an sp. distincta affinis? Taveita. + „ exappendiculata, M. T. M. var.? Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Grewia salviæfolia, Heyne forma Taveita. + „ „ forma foliis obtusioribus Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Triumfetta an. T. pilosa? (Fl. Trop. Afr. i. + 257) 6700 ft. + Sparmannia abyssinica, Hochst. var. hirsuta 7000 ft. + Triaspis auriculata, Radl. Maungu; and 40–60 miles + from coast. + Monsonia biflora, DC. (M. angustifolia, Roxb.) Taveita. + Geranium aculeolatum, Oliv. 6000 ft. + „ „ forma parvifolia 7000 ft. + „ simense, Hochst. 6000 ft. + „ „ ? forma 11,000 ft. + „ (inadequate) 10,000 ft. + „ ocellatum, Camb. var. 6000 ft. + Oxalis corniculata, L. var. 4400 ft. + Impatiens Walleriana, Hk. f. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ kilima-njari, Oliv. 8500:7000 and “up to + 10,200 ft.” + „ sp. 8500 (and ? No. 25, 8000 + ft.), also + „ sp. 7–8000 ft. + „ sp. 7000 ft. + Toddalia sp.? aff. T. aculeatæ, Pers.? (no + frct.) Lanjora. + „ sp. (no frct.) Kilima-njaro, 4–5000 ft. + Toddalia dub. (no frct.) 40–60 miles from coast. + Harrisonia abyssinica, Oliv. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Odina (in fruit) an O. leptoclada, Oliv.? „ 5000 ft. + Turræa floribunda, Hochst. var. macrantha. „ 5000 ft. + „ nilotica, Kotschy & Peyr. var. robusta Maungu, 2000 ft. + Rhamnus prinoides, L’Her. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft + Zizyphus Jujuba, Lam. var. obtusifolia Taita. + „ pubescens, Oliv. sp. nov. Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + Vitis rotundifolia, F.? (imperfect) „ 5000 ft. + „ arguta, Hook. f. var.? „ 5–6000 ft. + „ cyphopetala, Fres. forma plains, 2–6000 ft. + „ erythrodes, Fres. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Deinbollia insignis, Hook, f.? „ 5000 ft. + Schmidelia rubifolia, Hochst. Taita. + Cupania (too young) Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + Rhus villosa, L. f. forma parvifolia „ 2–3000 ft. + „ glutinosa, Hochst. „ 6000 ft. + „ glaucescens, Rich. var. 40–60 miles from coast & + 5000 ft. + Agelæa Lamarckii, Pl.? (in fruit) plains up to 6–7000 ft. + Adenocarpus Mannii, Hk. f. 6–9000 ft. + Parochetus communis, Hance 9000 ft. + Trifolium subrotundum, S. & H. 5000 ft. + „ Johnstoni, Oliv. sp. nov. Kilima-njaro, 10,000 ft. + „ polystachyum, Fres. „ 5000 ft. + Indigofera an I. macrophylla, S. & T. var.? an + sp. n. (no legumes) „ 5–6000 ft. + „ arrecta, Hochst. „ 4–5000 ft. + „ pentaphylla, L. „ 2–3000 ft. + Tephrosia Vogelii, Hook. f. 40–60 miles inland. + Hormolotus Johnstoni, Oliv. gen. nov. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Æschynomene cristata, Vatke? 40–60 miles inland. + Ormocarpum Kirkii, S. Moore Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Desmodium Scalpe, DC. 5000 and 6000 ft. + „ oxybracteatum, DC. (D. paleaccum G. & + P.) 5–6000 ft. + Alysicarpus rugosus, DC. + Lathyrus an. L. sativus, L.? (no fruit) 7000 ft. + Clitoria Ternatea, L. (forma minora) Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Glycine javanica, L. forma? 7000 ft. + Dolichos Lablab, L. 5000 ft. + Calpurnia aurea, Steud. var. major Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Cæsalpinia sp. n.? 40–60 miles inland. + Pterolobium lacerans, R. Br. (P. abyssinicum, + Rich.) 6000 ft. + Cassia didymobotrya, Fres. 5–6000 ft. + Cassia goratensis, Fres. 40–60 miles inland. + „ zambesiaca, Oliv. 40–60 miles inland. + „ mimosoides, L. 6000 ft. + Bauhinia tomentosa, L. var. + parvifolia-hirtella Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + „ „ var. glabra Maungu. + „ reticulata, DC. (imperfect) Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Acacia pennata, W. „ 6000 ft. + Rubus dictyophyllus, Oliv. sp. n. „ 4–10,000 ft. + Brayera anthelmintica, Kth. var. villosa 7–10,000 ft. + Alchemilla argyrophylla, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 8–10,000 + ft. + „ Johnstoni, Oliv. sp. n. „ 13,000 ft. + Terminalia Brownii, Fres.? (no frct.) 2–3000 ft. + Combretum paniculatum, V. forma 4–5000 ft. + „ sp. (foliis hirtellis) (no frct.) 40–60 miles inland. + „ sp. (foliis lepidotis) (no frct.) 40–60 miles inland. + Dissotis eximia, Hk. f. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ sp. aff. D. grandifloræ, Benth. + Epilobium hirsutum, L. 6000 ft. + Wormskioldia (Streptopetalum Hildebrandtii, + Vatke) Taita. + „ serrata Maungu, Taita. + Tryphostemma Hanningtoniana, Mast. Maungu, 2000 ft. + Momordica cardiospermoides, Kl. 40–60 miles inland. + „ cucullata, Hk. f. an var. Morkorra? Kilima-njaro, 4–5000 ft. + Cephalandra quinqueloba, Sch. forma? „ 5000 ft. + Zehneria scabra, Sond. var.? „ 6000 ft. + „ „ „ forma 5000 ft. + Begonia sp. (fragment). + „ Johnstoni, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5–6000 ft. + Mollugo nudicaulis, Lam. 40–60 miles inland. + Sanicula europæa, L. 10,000 ft. + Trachydium abyssinicum, Bth. & Hk. f. 12,000 ft. + Peucedanum? aff. P. Petitiano, Rich. 7000 ft. + „ sp. (no fruit) Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Caucalis infesta, Curb.? (no fruit) „ 5300:6000 ft. + „ melanantha, Bth. & Hk. f. 6000 ft. + Umbellifer—fragment worthless 5300 ft. + „ dub. (too young for determination) 11,000 ft. + „ „ Anthriscus? 8500:13,200 ft. + Dirichletia nr. glaucescens, Hn. (in fruit + only) 2–3000 ft. + Pentanisia ouranogyne, S. Moore 2–3000 ft. + Pentas mombassana, Hn. (var. hirtella) Maungu. + „ carnea, Bth. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ „ „ forma „ 6000 ft. + „ purpurea, Oliv. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Pentas purpurea, Oliv. var.? longiflora 4,400 ft. + „ longiflora, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Oldenlandia an O. Bojeri, Hn. var.? . Maungu. + „ Schimperi, T. A. forma Taveita, & 40–60 miles + inland. + „ obtusiloba, Hn. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ Heynei, W. & A. 4400 ft. + Hedyotis Johnstoni, Oliv Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Empogona Kirkii, Hk. f. var.? glabrata 40–60 miles inland. + Pavetta Oliveriana, Hiern. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + „ (fruit) nr. P. gracilis, Kl. & Caffra, + Thbg. 40–60 miles inland. + Vangueria edulis, Vahl var.? Kilima-njaro, 4–5000 ft. + „ euonymoides, Schw. „ 5000 ft. + Oxyanthus Gerrardi, Sond. var. „ 6000 ft. + Polysphæria multiflora, Hiern. „ 2–3000 ft. + Psychotria aff. P. (Grumilea) capensi, Sond.? „ 6000 ft. + „ hirtella, Oliv. sp. n. „ 2–3000 ft. + Spermacoce Ruelliæ, DC.? 4400 ft. + Galium Aparine, L. 8000 ft. + Dipsacus pinnatifidus, Steud. 10,000 ft. + Scabiosa Columbaria, L. var. 10–12,000 ft. + Valeriana sp. nov. (Genus new to Trop. + Africa.) Only a single flowering specimen 10,000 ft. + Vernonia Wakefieldii, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + „ stenolepis, Oliv. sp. n. „ 5000 ft. + „ marginata, O. & H. “up to 8000 ft.” + „ aff. V. paucifloræ, Less.? an var. 6000 ft. + „ sp. Taita, 6000 ft. + Adenostemma viscosum, Forst. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Mikania scandens, W. 6000 ft. + Dichrocephala chrysanthemifolia, DC. 12,000 ft. + Felicia abyssinica, Sch. Bip. Taita; Maungu. + Conyza stricta, W. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ ægyptiaca, Ait. „ 5000 ft. + „ Hochstetteri, Sch. forma „ 5000 ft. + Pluchea Dioscoridis, DC. var. glabra „ 5000 ft. + Psiadia sp. n.? 6000 ft. + Achyrocline Hochstetteri, Sch. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Gnaphalium luteo album, L. 6000 ft. + Helichrysum Newii, O. & H. 13,200:14,200 ft. + „ elegantissimum, DC. var.? (H. + formosissimum Sch. Bip. var. angustifolia). 9–11,000 ft. + „ formosissimum Sch. Bip. var. 8–10–13,000 ft. + „ var. capitula alba 10,000 ft. + Helichrysum kilima-njari, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 8300 ft. + „ globosum, Sch. Bip. forma? 10,000 ft. + „ fruticosum, Vatke. var. 13,000:13,200 ft. + „ abyssinicum, Sch. Bip. forma. 11–13–13,200 ft. + „ „ Sch. Bip. 9–11,000 ft. + „ setosum, Harv. (H. fœtidum, Cass. + var.?) + „ Kirkii Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Astephania africana, Oliv. Gen. nov. „ 5000 ft. + Melananthera Brownii, Sch. forma „ 6000 ft. + Aspilia? or Wedelia nr. W. Menotriche & + mossambicensis (sp. n.?) „ 5000 ft. + Artemisia Afra, Jacq. forma. 9900–13,200 ft.; also at + 3000 ft. + Coreopsis sp. n.? (inadequate) 4300 ft. + Bidens pilosa, L. 4000:6000 ft. + Tripteris Vaillantii, Dcne.? 4000 ft. + „ sp. too young 8500 ft. + (Thrown away. Fragmentary composite) 12,000 ft. + Gynura cernua, Bth. 6000 ft. + „ vitellina, Bth. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Cineraria abyssinica, Sch. Bip. forma. 7–10,000:barren 13,200 + ft. + Senecio discifolius, Oliv. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ deltoideus, Less.? var. 6000 ft. + „ Valeriana, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ Johnstoni, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, + 8–500–14,5000 ft. + Notonia abyssinica, A. R. 40–60 miles inland. + Euryops dacrydioides, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 10–14,000 + ft. + Gazania diffusa, Oliv. sp. n. „ 5000 ft. + Erythrocephalum minus, Oliv. 40–60 miles inland. + Carduus leptacanthus, Fres. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + „ allied to C. chamæcephalus, O. & H. 13,200 ft. + Gerbera piloselloides, Cass. Kilima-njaro, 4–5000 ft. + Sonchus sp. + Lobelia Deckenii, Hemsl. (Tupa Deckenii, + Asch.) + Lightfootia abyssinica, Hochst. forma. 6000 ft. + Wahlenbergia sp. n.? Without fruit: allied to + W. capilacea A. DC. of the Cape 11,000 ft. + Erica arborea, L. forma. 10,000 ft. + Blæria spicata, Hochst. 8–11,000 ft. + Ericinella Mannii, Hk. f. 7–10,000 ft. + Plumbago zeylanica, L. 40–60 miles inland. + Lysimachia an L. Richmerianæ, Vatke var. 5300 ft. + Euclea fruticosa, Hiern.? ♂︎ Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Landolphia florida? (Inflorescence only.) + Country at base of „ 2000 ft. + Landolphia Petersiana, Dyer. + Adenium speciosum, Fenzl. forma? 40–60 miles inland. + Gomphocarpus bisacculatus, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ stenophylla, Oliv Lanjora, 2000 ft. + „ aff. G. lanato and G. stenophyllo 2300 ft. + Schizoglossum (Lagarinthus) sp. Maungu, 2000 ft. + Asclepias macrantha, Hochst. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ Taita, 2000 ft. + Margaretta rosea, Oliv. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Cynanchum abyssinicum, Dene. var.? tomentosum 7000 ft. + Ceropegia sp. n. aff. C. Meyeri Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Gymnema parvifolium, Oliv. sp. n. „ 5000 ft. + Swertia Schimperi, Griseb. 8–11,000 ft. + „ pumila, Hochst.? 11,000 ft. + Ehretia amœna, Kl. 40–60 miles inland. + Heliotropium sp. nov.? aff. H. longifloro and + Steudneri 40–60 miles inland. + Cynoglossum micranthum, Desf. (C. lanceolatum, + F.) Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Cynoglossum amplifolium, Hochst. (C. + lancifolium, H. f.?) 9900–1100 ft. + Myosotis stricta, Link (the plant of Abyssinia + and the Cameroons): var. nucibus nigres + centibus 13,200 ft. + Scrap of Boraginacea (Heliotropium?) 13,000 ft. + Ipomœa bullata, Oliv. sp. n. 40–60 miles inland. + „ pinnata, Hochst. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ sp. ? (too imperfect) 6000 ft. + Cuscuta (§ Grammica) kilima-njari, Oliv. sp. + n. 6000 ft. + Solonum nigrum, L. var. 4400 ft. + „ sp. apparently identical with a Natal + sp. + „ Renschii, Vatke Taveita. + Buttonia natalensis McKen Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Veronica Anagallis, L. 6000 ft. + „ myrsinoides, Oliv. sp. n. 11,000 ft. + Rhamphicarpa (sp. n.?) 4400 ft. + „ sp.? (no fruit) 40–60 miles inland. + Bartsia decura, Hochst, var.? 12,000 ft. + Orobanche sp. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Streptocarpus sp. aff. S. caulescenti, Vatke 6000 ft. + „ montanus, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 7–9000 ft. + Hebenstreitia dentata, L. 9–12,000 ft. + Selago Thomsoni, Rolfe 11,000 ft. + „ Johnstoni, Rolfe Kilima-njaro, 11,000 ft. + Sesamum indicum, L. 5000 ft. + Thunbergia affinis, var. pulvinata, S. M. Maungu. + „ fuscata, T. And.? 6000 ft. + „ sp.? + Blepharis bœrhaavifolia, Juss. Maungu. + „ an var. B. Hildebrandtii, S. M.? . „ + „ „ „ Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + Phaylopsis longifolia, Sims.? + (Antheilemaimbricatum, R. Br.) 5000 ft. + „ „ „ 6000 ft. + Mimulopsis sp. v. Strobilanthes 7000 ft. + Barleria sp. 5300 ft. + „ nr. Brepens, Nees 40–60 miles inland. + Strobilanthes? sp. n.? 6–7000 ft. + Crossandra nilotica, Oliv. var. acuminata, + Moore Lanjora. + „ „ „ „ Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + Asystasia Schimperi, T. And. var. minor 4–5000 ft. + Justicia (Adhatoda) Schimperiana, T. And. Maungu. + „ (Rostellaria) palustris, T. And.? + „ plicata, Nees var.? Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + „ matamensis, Schf. „ 6000 ft. + „ „ „ 5000 ft. + „ „ foliis angustioribus 40–60 miles inland. + „ aff. J. neglectæ, T. And. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + „ debilis, V. Maungu. + „ sp. near J. insulario and neglecta, with species gathered from + 4400 to 6500 ft. + „ sp. (inadequate) 7000 ft. + Isoglossa laxa, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 7000 ft. + Brachystephanus sp.? 7000 ft. + Anisotes parvifolius, Oliv. 40–60 miles inland. + Rhinacanthus communis, Nees 40–60 miles inland. + Hypoestes aristata, Sol. Maungu. + „ „ forma Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + „ antennifera, Moore 6000 ft. + Lantana viburnoides, V. 4400 ft. + „ Petitiana, Rich.? an L. salvifolia + forma? 6000 ft. + „ salvifolia, Jacq. var. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ „ aff Maungu. + Vitex chrysoclada, Boj. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + „ aff. V. mombassæ, Vatke, and lanigeræ, + Schr. „ 5000 ft. + Clerodendron Johnstoni, Oliv. sp. n. „ 5000 ft. + „ (Cyclonema), sp. n.? Taita. + „ „ myricoides, Hochst. var.? “Very common, reaches + 7000 ft.” + Ocimum canum, Sims var. Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + „ graveolens, A. Br.? „ 6000 ft. + „ sp. 6000 ft. + Orthosiphon? aff. O. glabrato, Benth.? 40–60 miles inland. + Plectranthus parvus, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ aff. P. glanduloso, Hk. f. 6000 ft. + Coleus umbrosus, Vatke Taita. + Platystoma africanum, Beauv. Kilima-njaro, 5–6000 ft. + Moschosma, M. multiflori v. M. riparii var.? 6000 ft. + Æolanthus zanzibaricus, S. Moore 40–60 miles inland. + Hyptis pectinata, Poit. Kilima-njaro, 4–5000 ft. + Salvia nilotica, V. var.? „ 6000 ft. + Meromeria punctata, Bth. 4000 ft. + „ an M. punctatæ forma 6000 ft. + „ abyssinica, Bth. forma 4–6000 ft. + Tinnæa æthiopica, K. & P. var. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + „ sp. may be distinct „ 5000 ft. + Anjuga remota, Benth. „ 3000 ft. + Leonotis—L. rugosæ, Benth. var. „ 4–5000 ft. + Leucas glabrata, Benth. Maungu and „ + 2–3000 ft. + „ Neuflizeana, Courb. Maungu, 2000 ft. + „ glabratæ var. 40–60 miles inland. + „ sp. nov. Taita; Maungu. + Labiata (§ Ocymoideæ) sp. 8000 ft. + „ ?imperfect 10,000 ft. + Plantago palmata, Hk. f. 7000 ft. + Digera arvensis, F. 40–60 miles inland, and + Maungu. + Psilotrichum africanum, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Phytolacca abyssinica, Hoff. „ 6000 ft. + Chenopodum murale, L. „ 5000 ft. + Oxygonum (Ceratogonum atriplicifolium, Meiss.) „ 5000 ft. + Polygonum barbatum, L. „ 6000 ft. + „ „ ?L. „ 6000 ft. + „ senegalense, Meiss. „ 6000 ft. + „ serrulatum, Log. „ 5000 ft. + Rumex Steudelio, Hochst. „ 6000 ft. + „ „ „ ?(in fl.) 13,000 ft. + „ alismifolius, Fres. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Protea abyssinica, W. 9–13,000 ft. + Arthrosolen latifolius, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Loranthus curviflorus, Benth. 40–60 miles inland. + Loranthus sp. 4500 ft. + Thesium an T. radicans, Hochst.? 10,000 ft. + „ „ ?(barren). 13,000 ft. + Euphorbia (§ Tithymalus) sp. 10,000 ft. + „ sp. 7000 ft. + Bridelia melanthesoides, Kl. forma Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Phyllanthus maderaspatensis, L. „ 2–3000 ft. + „ Nirari, L. forma? „ 5000 ft. + Antidesma, A. venosum, Tul. var.? 40–60 miles inland. + Gelonum zanzibarense, M. Arg. 40–60 miles inland. + Jatropha sp. n.? 40–60 miles inland. + Croton pulchellus, Baill.? 40–60 miles inland. + „ macrostachys, Hochst Kilima-njaro, 5–6000 ft. + Acalypha ornata, Rich var. (A. Livingstoniana + M. Arg.?) „ 6000 ft. + „ cf. A. adenotricha, Rich. „ 6000 ft. + „ paniculata, Miq. Maungu. + „ an aff. A. fruticosæ, F.? 5000 ft. + Tragia an T. mitis var.? (frct.) Kilima-njaro, 4–5000 ft. + Sponia bracteolata, Hochst.? Lanjora. + Morus indica, W.? 40–60 miles inland. + Pilea Johnstoni, Oliv. sp. n. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Myrica an M. salicifoliæ, var. „ 4–5000 ft. + Polystachya kilima-njari, Reichb. fil. 40–60 miles inland. + Vanilla sp.? (fragment) 40–60 miles inland. + Angræcum eburneum, Th.? Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Eulophia sp. Maungu. + Lissochilus sp. 40–60 miles inland. + „ sp. 40–60 miles inland. + Disperis Johnstoni, Reichb. fil. sp. n.. Kilima-njaro, 5–6000 ft. + „ Kersteni, Reichb. fil. „ 7500 ft. + Habenaria aff. macranthæ, Hochst „ 6000 ft. + „ stylites, Reichb. fil. & S. Moore „ 2–3000 ft. + „ pleistadenia, Reichb. fil. „ 8–10,000 ft. + „ ranicolorata, Reichb. fil. sp. n. „ 7000 ft. + Satyrium chlorocorys, Reichb. fil. sp. n. „ 7000 ft. + Disa Deckenii, Reichb. fil „ 6–8000 ft. + Orchidacea dub. (foliis radicalibus 1 spec.) „ 6000 ft. + Acidanthera laxiflora, Baker sp. n. Maungu, 2000 ft. + Gladiolus (Eugladiolus) pauciflorus, Baker + sp.n. Kilima-njaro, 2–5000 ft. + „ „ sulphureus, Baker sp.n. „ 5000 ft. + „ Watsonioides, Baker 8500–11,000 ft. + „ „ „ 10,000 ft. + „ „ var. minor up to 13,000 ft. + „ Quartinianus, A. Rich. 7000 ft. + Aristea alata, Baker 7000 ft. + Dierama pendula, Baker 8300–10,000 ft. + Hæmanthus abyssinicus, Herb. (= H. + tenuiflorus, Herb.) 40–60 miles inland. + Dioscorea aff. D. crinitæ, Hk. f. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + Asparagus falcatus, L. „ 5000 ft. + „ sp. n.? an aff. A. plumoso. „ 2–3000 ft. + „ aff. A. plumoso, Baker (no. fls.) „ 8000 ft. + Gloriosa virescens, Lindl. „ 2–3000 ft. + Scilla (Ledebouria) Johnstoni, Baker sp. n. 40–60 miles inland. + Walleria natans, Kirk Taveita. + Bulbine asphodelioides, R. & S. 40–60 miles inland. + Ornithogalum (Osmyne) Melleri, J. G. Baker 40–60 miles inland. + Kniphofia Thomsoni, Baker 8000:11,000 ft. + Aloe, perhaps A. commutata, Tod. (material + inadequate) 3–6000 ft. + „ (Eualoe) Johnstoni, Baker Kilima-njaro, 2–5000 ft. + Dracœna sp. n. „ 6–9000 ft. + Anthericum (Phalangium) venulosum, Baker sp. + n. „ 2–5000 ft. + „ „ rubellum, Baker sp. n. „ 5000 ft. + Dasystachys Grantii, Benth. „ 5000 ft. + „ ? (inadequate) „ 5000 ft. + Commelyna, near C. latifolia, H. „ 5000 ft. + Aneilema sinicum, Lindl. „ 5000 ft. + „ æquinoctiale, Kth. Maungu, 5–6000 ft. + „ cf. lanceolatum. Kilima-njaro, 2–3000 ft. + „ pedunculosum, C. B. Clarke? up to 9000 ft. + Phœnix sp. spadices only. “Mkindo” palm. nearly to 6000 ft. + Luzula Forsteri, DC. forma 8–9000 ft. + Cyperus dichrostachys, Hochst. Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + „ rotundus, L. forma (C. adoensis?) „ 4–5000 ft. + „ paniceus, Bkler.?. „ 5000 ft. + „ leptocladus, Kth. „ 6000 ft. + Kyllinga cylindrica, N.? „ 6000 ft. + Fimbristylis an F. hispidula (glabrata)? + „ (Abildgaardia bilosa, Nees) 40–60 miles inland. + „ (Oneostylis) (Scirpus(Oneostylis) + atrosanguineus, Bœckl). + Carex an C. Wahlenbergiana, Boott? with specn. from 6–10,000 ft. + „ triquetrifolia, Bœckl. 12,000 ft. + „ Johnstoni, Bœckl. 6–10,000 ft. + Isachne mauritiani, Kth.? 7000 ft. + Panicum excurrens Trin. (P. plicatum var.?) 7000 ft. + „ (Tricholæna) an P. longisetæ, Hochst. + var. 4400 ft. + „ (Tricholæna ??) fragment 6000 ft. + Oplismenus compositus, Beauv.? fragment 5300 ft. + Andropogon (Cymbopogon) cymbarius, L. forma 6000 ft. + Andropogon (Cymbopogon) hirtum, L. var. + Anthistiria an A. abyssinica, Hochst. 8300:10–11,000 ft. + Elionurus argenteus, Nees. Kilima-njaro, 5000 ft. + Aristida adoensis, Hochst. „ 5000 ft. + Sporobolus indicus, Br. (S. elongatus, Br.) „ 5000 ft. + Anthoxanthum odoratum, L. var.? 13,200 ft. + Kœhleria cristata, Pers. var. (Airochloa + convoluta, Hochst.) 7000 ft. + Eragrostis Schimperi, Benth. (Harpachne, + Hochst.) Kilima-njaro, 6000 ft. + „ sp. 6000 ft. + Festuca macrophylla, Hochst. var.? 12–13,000 ft. + „ aff. F. Schimperianæ Rich. 13,000 ft. + Hymenophyllum polyanthos, Sm. 8000 ft. + Cystopteris fragilis, Bernh. 13,000 ft. + Adiantum candatum, L. 4300 ft. + „ æthiopicum, L. 4–6000 ft. + „ Capillus-veneris, L. 5–6000 ft. + Cheilanthes multifida, Sw. 4–7000 ft. + Pellæa geraniæfolia, Fée. 4–7000 ft. + „ hastata, Fée. 4–7000 ft. + Lonchitis pubescens, Willd. 6–8000 ft. + Pteris flabellata, Thunb. 4–8000 ft. + „ aquilina, L. up to 10,000 ft. + „ quadriaurita, Retz. 4–7000 ft. + Asplenium monanthemum, L. 10,000 ft. + „ furcatum, Thunb. 4–8000 ft. + „ lunulatum, Sw. 4–8000 ft. + „ cicutarium, Sw. 7800 ft. + „ Sandersoni, Hook. 8000 ft. + „ loxoscaphoides, Baker sp. n. 8000 ft. + „ sertularioides, Baker sp. n. 9–13,000 ft. + „ Thunbergii, Kunze. 5000 ft. + Aspidium aculeatum, Sw. 4–8000 ft. + „ „ 13,700 ft. + Nephrodium molle, Desv. 4–10,000 ft. + „ cicutarium, var. gemmiferum, Fée. 4–8000 ft. + Polypodium Phymatodes, L. 5000 ft. + Acrostichum hybridum, Brg. 8000 ft. + „ Aubertii, Desv. 8000 ft. + Mohria vestita, Baker sp. n. 6000 ft. + Lycopodium clavatum, L. 7500–8500 ft. + Selaginella rupestris, Spring. 40–60 miles inland. + „ molliceps, Spring. 5000 ft. + Marchantia (no fruit) + Grimmia 12,000 ft. + Dicranum 10,000 ft. + Thuidium 10,000 ft. + Physcia flavicans (Sw.) + „ speciosa (Wulf.) + Parmelia perlata (L.) + „ sp. 14,300 ft. + Usnea sp. (The “orchilla-weed” of commerce) Most abundant, from 5000 + to 12,000 ft. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 65.—Branching Borassus Palm. +] + + + + + CHAPTER XVIII. + ZOOLOGY. + + +I will precede the enumeration of my zoological collections by a short +sketch of the main features of the Kilima-njaro _fauna_. + +To begin with our near kinsfolk, the monkeys. I found these creatures +much more abundantly present in East Central Africa than during my +journeys on the West Coast. Although Western Africa is probably better +provided with species of quadrumana than any other division of the +continent, the monkeys are much scarcer in numbers and harder to see, +possibly owing to the greater density of the forests. + +During eight months on the Congo I only saw monkeys twice in a wild +state, and that in one place only; and throughout my entire stay of +sixteen months in West Africa I can only remember six occasions on which +I actually beheld these animals in a state of nature. On the other hand, +I had scarcely left the East Coast, to journey towards Kilima-njaro, +when monkeys showed themselves abundantly in the wilds. + +The first to attract my attention were the baboons, probably the species +known as _Cynocephalus hamadryas_, _C. Sphinx_, and _C. babouin_. They +were generally found on the outskirts of native plantations, where they +almost subsisted on the maize and other food-stuffs stolen from the +gardens of their more highly-developed fellow-primates. In the inhabited +region of Kilima-njaro, generally known as the country of Čaga, baboons +were strangely abundant. They were generally in flocks of fourteen to +twenty, of all ages, and both sexes. They were so little molested by the +natives that they showed small fear of man, and, instead of running +away, would often stop to look at me about twenty yards off, and the old +males would show their teeth and grunt. I have frequently seen the +natives driving them from the plantations, as they might a troop of +naughty boys, and the baboons retreating with swollen cheek-pouches, +often dragging after them a portion of the spoil. On one occasion, in a +river-bed at the foot of Kilima-njaro, my Indian servant, ordinarily a +very plucky boy, met a troop of baboons, who, instead of fleeing up into +the trees, came running towards him in a very menacing manner, and he +was so frightened at their aspect that he took to his heels. The baboons +followed, and, but that the boy forded the shallow stream, and put the +water between him and his pursuers, he might have had an awkward +contest. I killed a baboon once in Čaga, one of a troop who were rifling +a maize plantation, and its companions, instead of running away, +surrounded the corpse and snarled at me. As I had fired off both barrels +of my gun, and had no more ammunition, I went back to my settlement to +fetch some of my followers, and upon the approach of several men the +baboons ran off. We picked up the dead one and carried it back. It was a +female, and apparently young and tender. Out of curiosity I had its +flesh cooked the next day and ate it,[36] hoping in this lawful way to +form some idea of the practice of cannibalism; I can only say that the +succulence and quality of this creature’s flesh were quite +unexceptionable. I have noticed this with most of the species of +Old-World monkey I have as yet tasted. During my four months’ stay in +Mandara’s country I ate the common _Cercopithēcus pygerythrus_ +constantly, and found it made a very toothsome stew. The most remarkable +monkey in all this region is probably the Colobus, which apparently +offers a new variety or sub-species in the country round Kilima-njaro, +remarkable for having an entirely white heavily-plumed tail. The common +species, with a black tail tipped with white, I have shot in the +forested plains near the coast. The Colobus monkey is almost the only +one that quite avoids the neighbourhood of man; the other genera +frequent the vicinity of native plantations, and doubtless profit by the +abundance of cultivated food. I never observed any Galago (a lemuroid +animal) in this district, nor do the natives speak of one, although it +is a genus well represented in other parts of Africa. + +Bats are by no means common or often seen. I saw some fruit-bats once in +the forest hanging to a sycamore fig-tree. No member of the group of +Insectivora came under my notice. The Carnivora in this country of big +game are, of course, well represented. The lion is very abundant and +very bold; but the leopard is more feared by the natives than his larger +ally. While stopping in Mandara’s country, two of that chief’s subjects +were killed by leopards, one of them close to the frequented +village-green. The leopard ascends the mountain up to about 8000 feet, +scarcely higher. I shot one of these creatures in the valley of a stream +in broad daylight. I think it had been sleeping by the water, and was +suddenly awakened by my near approach, and too dazed to fly immediately. +The most common dog is the side-striped jackal. There is a wild dog +found on Kilima-njaro which barks loudly. It is quite nocturnal, and I +have never been able to shoot it; but from its appearance in bright +moonlight it looks somewhat like the Abyssinian dog (_Canis Simensis_). +The natives know it by a different name from that applied to the +jackal—viz. _Nzudu_. + +Hyenas are very common, and both species, striped and spotted, are +present; but the striped hyena more affects the hills, while the spotted +kind inhabits the plains. The spotted hyena is a much more predatory +animal here than one generally imagines. Not only does it steal sheep +and calves from the herds, but it even carries off children, and will +often attack wounded or weakly men. I once sent a sick man back to the +coast a short distance by himself, and he was severely bitten at night +by the hyenas. He succeeded, however, in beating them off, and recovered +from his wounds. + +Civets and genets are very abundant; so also are one or two specimens of +ichneumon. I noticed no kind of weasel, ratel, or badger. + +The _Orycteropus Æthiopicus_, or Ant-bear, is common on the plains, to +judge by his many huge burrows; but I have never seen him, and only +identify him from natives’ descriptions. + +Among the _Rodentia_ there were few that came under my notice. A species +of _Graphiurus_[37] (probably _G. capensis_) is found in the forests of +Kilima-njaro. The porcupine is fairly common, and a small black rat +infests the natives’ houses. + +A hyrax is found on Kilima-njaro (_H. Brucei_) between 7000 and 11,000 +feet. It lives entirely in the trees, which it climbs with the facility +of a squirrel. It is much sought after by the Wa-čaga for its warm, +furry skin, which is made into cloaks. + +The elephant inhabits Kilima-njaro up to a great height. I have seen two +females and a young one at an altitude of 13,000 feet, crossing a +stream-valley, and mounting the opposite bank with the agility of goats. +As I have also met with this creature in the Chella Mountains of Angola, +where he climbs to 8000 feet, in fact, as high as he can go, I am +convinced he can easily adapt himself to a mountain life. + +Round the base of Kilima-njaro the rhinoceros is very abundant; and in +Lake ǰipé hippopotami are found. The zebra (_Equus Chapmani_) is present +in incredible quantities in the plains round Kilima-njaro. In fact, the +vast herds of varied game which pasture on the level country between the +snow mountains and the coast remind one of the tales of Gordon Cumming. + +Among the more noticeable _Ruminantia_ are the buffalo (_Bubalus +Caffer_), the giraffe (very abundant), the eland, the kudu, the +bush-buck (_Tragelaphus sylvaticus_), the sable antelope (_Hippotragus +niger_), the pallah, one or two gazelles, gnus, hartebeests, bless-boks, +and many small species of _Neotragus_ and _Cephalophus_. The kudu +penetrates up the mountain to a height of 14,000 feet, in company with +the buffalo, attracted possibly by the sweet perennial pasture. A +_Neotragus_ and a _Cephalophus_ are also found at high altitudes. I give +here a drawing of a head of the little Neotragus antelope (possibly _N. +Kirki_) found on Kilima-njaro. As you may see, it has the nose nearly +developed into a trunk, a tendency which is very common, after all, +among mammals, and which reaches its utmost development with the +elephant. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 66.—_Neotragus Kirki._ +] + +In the plains round Kilima-njaro the red hartebeest (_Alcephalus Cokei_) +is found in myriads. This creature by the colour of its coat and its +strange shape assimilates marvellously with the huge red ant-hills +(habitations of the white termites) which abound in the districts +favoured by the hartebeests. When you are out stalking it is really most +difficult and puzzling sometimes to know which is hartebeest and +ant-hill; for the long grass hiding the antelope’s legs leaves merely a +red humped mass which, until it moves, may well be a mound of red earth. +The unconscious mimicry is rendered the more ludicrously exact sometimes +by the sharply-pointed flag-like leaves of a kind of lily which +frequently crown the summit of the ant-hill or grow at its base, thus +suggesting the horns of an antelope, either with the head erect, or +browsing low down. _Vide_ Chapter IV. + +Among the passerine birds of Kilima-njaro I have brought back six that +are new to science. Three of these are sun-birds, one is a flycatcher, +and the remaining two are chats. The sun-birds are found very high up +the mountain, in that resembling the hummingbirds which frequent the +Andes near to the snow-line. They hover round the long tubular flowers +of certain labiate plants, and on being captured it will be noticed that +the feathers of the brow are thickly covered with pollen, so that in +these regions sun-birds share with insects the means of fertilizing +flowers. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 67.—Head of Great-billed Raven (_Corvultur albicollis_). +] + +The bird mentioned in Chapter XIII. as being found at a height of 14,000 +feet, the highest dweller, except the occasional passing ravens or +kites, is _Pinarochroa hypospodia_, a kind of stonechat. + +Other passerine birds of a note are a lovely oriole (_Oriolus notatus_), +which frequents the forests of the lower slopes, and the great +white-necked raven, alluded to and illustrated in Chapter XIII. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 68.—The dying Hornbill. +] + +The great crested hornbill (_Buceros cristatus_) is generally +distributed over the mountain up to 6000 feet, especially near +habitations. They show no fear of man, being generally protected by the +natives, who look upon them with superstitious awe, arising possibly +from their being useful scavengers, as well as from their peculiar loud +cry, which resembles at times that of the wailing of a woman in +distress, at others that of the braying of an ass. In August and +September they are generally breeding, and occasionally the head of the +female may be seen peering out from a hole in a tree, some thirty or +forty feet high, where she has been plastered in by her affectionate +husband. By the chips lying about it would appear that these holes are +excavated by the birds to the required size. They are monogamous, and +show great affection for each other, which is fortunate, as the female +during incubation has entirely to rely on her mate for daily sustenance. +I shot a fine male hornbill once, at Taveita, and he fell to the ground +mortally wounded. His dying struggles were quite touching to behold, and +I felt almost criminal in having caused his death. His breath came and +went in great gasps, and his snowy stomach was streaked with red blood. +His large eye with long lashes gazed at me with calm wonder and vague +reproach, as if to say, “What ill have I done that you should kill me?” +He disdained to snap at the stick with which I gently poked his opened +beak, and still kept his eye fixed on me, regarding my impertinent +investigations of his person as unnecessary insults. So he lay during +some minutes, with long shuddering breathings raising and lowering the +feathers of his breast and back. Then another hornbill, evidently his +mate, came and perched on the bough of a neighbouring tree and uttered a +low cry. The dying bird started up to life again, raised his head high, +flapped his widespread, glossy wings, dragged himself painfully along +the ground, and gave vent to one sonorous bellow; then his great head +dropped on one side, and his wide-open eye glazed with an expression of +eager hope hardened in it even in death. + +A beautiful turaco inhabits the forests in Kilima-njaro. It is +bluish-green-purple, with a white-lined crest and scarlet skin round the +eyes. Its wings, like most other turacos, have intense crimson pinions, +and therefore it is a gorgeous object as it flaps its loose flight +through the forest aisles. + +Several species of pigeon are found on the mountain, notably one very +fine bird, _Palumbus arquatrix_, which inhabits the upper regions. + +Francolin and guinea-fowl are most abundant, but the latter bird I have +never met with at any great altitude above the plains. + +Numbers of water-birds frequent the shallow lakes and swamps in the +vicinity of Kilima-njaro. Lake J̌ipé is a great resort of pelicans, +geese, egrets, and saddle-billed storks. I have only noticed one +water-bird on the mountain at any altitude, and this was a species of +duck, I think _Anas xanthorhyncus_, which was found inhabiting ice-cold +streams at an elevation of 11,000 feet. + +The abundance of vultures has already been remarked, and is in marked +contrast to what may be observed in West Africa, where these vultures +are absent, and their place is filled by another Accipitrine scavenger +(_Gypohierax_), who apparently finds so little offal to sustain him, +that he has in many places to turn his attention to fishing.[38] + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 69.—(_a_) The right _Manus_ or Wing of young Ostrich. (_b_) Scale + Feathers of young Ostrich. +] + +The ostrich which is so numerous in the vicinity of Kilima-njaro, is a +recently determined species—_Struthius Danaoides_, Shelley—apparently +differing from _S. camelus_ in the colour of the soft parts and naked +skin, and the size and markings of the egg. I kept many of the young +ostriches alive during my residence at Taveita. As most of my readers +know, young ostriches for the first few months of their life are covered +with curious scale-like plumes, but, unless they are scientific +ornithologists, they may not be also aware that the hand (wing) of the +ostrich exhibits _three_ fingers, instead of the _two_ that most other +birds possess. The third finger is without a claw. This is but one of +the many details which make the ostrich more reptilian than other living +birds. The ostriches breed during the months of June, July, and August +in the vicinity of Kilima-njaro. The hatched young appear about the +month of October, or a little earlier. I am told by the Wa-taveita that +for the first few days after emerging from the egg they remain under the +guardianship of the mother, but I must own that whenever I have myself +seen them, they were, no matter if young enough to be run down and +easily captured, unaccompanied by any parent. Nevertheless the natives +persist in their statement, and they further averred, without any +questioning from me, that the male ostrich simulates lameness (like the +peewit and the wild duck), in order to distract the pursuit of his +children by would-be captors. + +Among reptiles, crocodiles are found in Lake ǰipé and in the River Ruvu. +Large varanus lizards (_Monitor niloticus_) are frequently found in the +forests of Taveita. They share the water and the trees as their habitat, +generally plunging into the stream when frightened or disturbed. They +seem to me to feed largely on fish, and no doubt often capture and eat +small squirrels and birds. When extended full length along a tree-trunk, +immobile, and exactly matching the colour of the bark with their +grey-green mottled skin, these creatures are very hard to distinguish +from their surroundings, and doubtless often in consequence deceive the +sharp eyes even of a squirrel. From what I know of these creatures, and +from what the natives tell me, they use their long, heavy, whip-like +tail as a powerful weapon. When driven into a corner they will slash +right and left, and if the tail strikes your shins they will certainly +be barked. A blow with the tail will kill a dog, and I believe many an +unwary bird, squirrel, and possibly small monkey, is flicked from a tree +overhanging the stream into the water, and plunged after by the agile +lizard. The teeth of this creature are weak and blunt, and only +sufficient for mastication. + +There are some five species of snakes, mostly non-venomous. The common +python is present. + +Chameleons are not only very common on Kilima-njaro, but are found up to +an altitude of 13,000 feet. The natives consider them venomous and +hurtful, and scream with fear if one is pushed near them. They regarded +me as a sorcerer when I handled these creatures with impunity. Of course +the poor little chameleons, like the “effets” that our nurses always +warned us against, are entirely innocuous, and make, moreover, +interesting pets, being a source of amusement with their goblinish ways +and strange appearance. Frogs are found in the ice-cold streams as high +up as 13,000 feet. Tree-frogs of many kinds haunt the forest, and chirp +perseveringly. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 70.—Varanus Lizards. +] + +Fish are nowhere found in the rivers of Kilima-njaro, save in the River +Lumi, which flows into Lake ǰipé. I give a drawing of the only kind +caught in the Lumi, which is the river of Taveita. It is probably a +species of Barbel or _Labio_, of the family _Cyprinidæ_. In Lake ǰipé a +silurus is very common, and there are many other kinds of fish also +present, but the shores of the lake are deserted, nobody fishes there, +and the fish would not rise to ordinary bait; and therefore as my time +at ǰipé was short, and my health bad, I had no opportunity of +investigating its piscine forms. Freshwater crabs of the genus +_Thelphusa_ (_T. depressa, var. Johnstoni_) are present in most of the +mountain streams. They appear to be most closely related to the +river-crabs of Natal and South Africa. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 71.—A Fish from the River Lumi. +] + +Throughout this region butterflies are few and scarce. They do not +penetrate much higher than 8000 or 9000 feet. The common clouded yellow +is often seen on Kilima-njaro. + +Bees and wasps penetrate to a height of 14,000 feet. They belong +principally to the genus _Xyloropus_. Most of the beetles are allied to, +or identical with, South-east African forms. One new species has no +allies nearer than India. Others are related to Abyssinian species, and +some to the beetles of Somali-land. + + + + + APPENDICES.[39] + + +1. NOTE ON A NEMATOID WORM (_Gordius verrucosus_) OBTAINED BY MR. H. H. + JOHNSTON ON KILIMA-NJARO. BY F. JEFFREY BELL, M.A., F.Z.S. + +The single specimen of _Gordius_ which was obtained by Mr. Johnston +belongs to a well-known and widely-distributed species, but yet presents +points of interest such as are almost always absent from so-called new +species. + +So far as my knowledge extends (and on this particular point it is in +advance of that of Dr. Linstow, who, in his valuable “Compendium der +Helminthologie,” does not mention the parasite now under consideration), +_Gordius verrucosus_ is in earlier life parasitic on a species of the +genus _Mantis_; and there is in the British Museum a specimen of +“_Mantis_, sp.,” which, as Mr. Waterhouse has been good enough to point +out to me, is really _M. membranacea_, accompanying a _Gordius_. The +whole of the abdomen of this Orthopteron is completely emptied of its +contents. A similarly excavated Mantis, the appearance of which had +excited Mr. Waterhouse’s wonder, is to be found among the insects +collected by Mr. Johnston between 3000 and 5000 feet. + +A specimen, belonging apparently to the same species, is to be found +half-in and half-out of the abdomen of _Hierodula bioculata_, a Mantid +collected on the west coast of Africa, and lately presented to the +trustees by Dr. Günther, F.R.S. + +With regard to the geographical distribution of the species, it is to be +noted that it is sufficiently wide to include South Africa and Ceylon; +while there are in the British Museum specimens named respectively by +Dr. Baird, the author of the species, and by Dr. Örley, who in 1881 went +carefully through the collection in the Museum; these specimens are +reported as coming from Vera Paz, Guatemala (presented by O. Salvin, +Esq.), and the “neighbourhood of Irazu, Costa Rica” (presented by +Messrs. Godman and Salvin). The fact that the same parasite is to be +found in hosts of different species is well known. The present case, in +which _Mantis membranacea_ from Ceylon, _Idoleum diabolicum_ from +Kilima-njaro, and _Hierodula bioculata_ from West Africa, are infested +by a common form, is almost exactly paralleled by the case of the +_Tænia_ described by Peters from a rhinoceros from the Mozambique, and +by Murie and Garrod in rhinoceri from India. + +As to the second point which has arisen, the presence of _G. verrucosus_ +in Central America, I note differences in the form of the integumentary +papillæ, which are sufficient to induce me to suggest that no stress +should be at present laid on this point, though they are not enough, +when taken in conjunction with my own want of experience in the degrees +of possible variations, to lead me to put myself into more decided +opposition to the views or determinations of such workers as Dr. Baird +or Dr. Örley. + + +2. DESCRIPTION OF A NEW VARIETY OF RIVER-CRAB OF THE GENUS _Thelphusa_, + FROM KILIMA-NJARO. BY E. J. MIERS, F.L.S., F.Z.S. + +The species of _Thelphusa_, or River-Crabs, are extremely numerous, and +their discrimination is often very difficult, on account of the changes +which the species undergo as they increase in age and size. + +In the collection brought by Mr. H. H. Johnston from Kilima-njaro are +two specimens of this genus, which I assign, though not without some +hesitation, to the _Thelphusa depressa_, Krauss, described from types +taken near Pietermaritzburg, Natal. They agree with the description and +figure in their depressed carapace, which is considerably dilated at the +branchial regions, in the non-development of the lateral epibranchial +tooth, and in other essential characters; but differ in the more +strongly defined cervical suture of the carapace, and the more strongly +denticulated merus, and much less strongly arcuated dactylus of the +chelipedes. As regards this latter character, I may observe that in a +series of _Thelphusæ_ (perhaps _T. difformis_) in the Museum collection, +the dactyli of the chelipes are in some males arcuated, and in others +nearly straight. + +I append a detailed description of the specimens from Kilima-njaro, +which I propose to designate _T. depressa_, Krauss, var. _Johnstoni_, +but which may prove to belong to a distinct species. + +THELPHUSA DEPRESSA, Krauss, var. JOHNSTONI. + +Cf. _Thelphusa depressa_, Krauss, Sudafrik. Crustaceen, p. 38, pl. 11. +fig. 4 (1843). + +Carapace transverse, widest in its postfrontal region, depressed, with +the dorsal surface nearly smooth, and divided into two nearly equal +portions by the zigzag cervical suture, which extends transversely +across the carapace to the postero-lateral margins; behind this a second +transverse depression (not a suture) crosses the carapace behind the +cardiac region. The postfrontal crest extends to the antero-lateral +margins of the carapace, and is interrupted only by the meso-gastric +suture, which bifurcates posteriorly (as usual in the genus); this crest +is granulated near to the antero-lateral margins, which are defined by a +distinctly granulated line; the lateral epibranchial teeth are not +developed. On the hepatic and branchial regions are several faintly +indicated lines, which extend inward for a short distance over the +dorsal surface of the carapace from the lateral margins. The front is +about one-third the width of the carapace, punctulated above, with its +anterior margin sinuated, its antero-lateral angles obtuse and not +prominent. The orbital margins are entire, and defined by a raised line, +which is granulated except near to the front; the inferior orbital +margin is regularly arcuate, not (as in _T. perlata_) angulated near to +the interior subocular lobe, which is not at all prominent; the tooth, +also, at the exterior orbital angle is very little developed; the parts +of the carapace adjoining the antero-lateral angles of the buccal cavity +are very distinctly granulated. The eye-peduncles are slender (for a +species of this genus), and the eyes do not attain the exterior angle of +the orbit. The exterior maxillipedes are formed as in _T. perlata_, +having the ischium and merus of the endognath distally truncated, the +merus rounded at its antero-external angle, and scarcely emarginate at +its antero-internal angle. The chelipedes in the adult male are unequal, +the right the larger; in both the merus is armed with a series of +spinules on the anterior margin, and with a somewhat longer spine near +the distal extremity; the carpus with a spine followed by a smaller +spinule on the inner margin; the palm is somewhat compressed and nearly +smooth, rounded above; the dactyl and pollex are denticulated on the +inner margins, and have between them, when closed, a rather narrow +interspace; the dactyl is slightly arcuated and as long as, or rather +shorter than, the palm. The ambulatory legs are of moderate length, with +the fourth to sixth joints compressed, and with the superior margins +acute; the margins of the penultimate joints near to the distal +extremity and the dactyli are armed with small spinuliform teeth, which +on the dactyli are disposed in four longitudinal series. + + _Adult male._ + Lines. Millims. + Length of carapace 17¼ 37 + Breadth of carapace about 25½ 54·5 + Length of a chelipede. 44 93·5 + +This form may be distinguished from other African species in which the +postfrontal crest is distinctly developed, by the following +characters:—From _T. perlata_, M. Edw., which is found at the Cape and +Port Natal, by the wider transverse carapace, which is more dilated at +the branchial regions, and not dorsally granulated near the +antero-lateral margins, and by the form of the orbit, whose inferior +margin is regularly concave (not as in specimens referred to _T. +perlata_ in the Museum collection), abruptly angulated near the interior +subocular lobe. From _T. inflata_, M. Edw., by the less convex carapace, +straight postfrontal crest, and the granulated line which borders the +antero-lateral margins of the carapace. _T. aubryi_, M. E., _T. +africana_, A. M. E., and _T. emarginata_, Kingsley, from the Gaboon, +West Africa, and Port Natal, have an additional tooth between the +exterior angle of the orbit and the postfrontal crest. In _T. goudoti_, +M. E., from Madagascar, the postfrontal crest is less developed, and the +immobile finger of the chelipedes forms more or less of an angle with +the inferior margin of the palm. Another species from Madagascar, _T. +madagascariensis_, A. M. E., which has not, I believe, been figured, is +distinguished by the lesser development of the postfrontal crest and the +straighter fingers of the chelipedes, which meet along their inner +margins. In the West African _T. bayoniana_, _T. anchietæ_, and _T. +dubia_, Brito Capello, the lateral epibranchial tooth is more developed. +In _T. limula_ Hilgendorf, from Senegambia, the postfrontal crest is +less distinctly developed near the lateral epibranchial teeth, behind +which, in the males, are indications of two other teeth. + + +3. A LIST OF THE LEPIDOPTERA COLLECTED BY MR. H. H. JOHNSTON DURING HIS + RECENT EXPEDITION TO KILIMA-NJARO. By F. D. GODMAN, F.R.S., &c. + +Mr. Johnston’s collection of Lepidoptera contains 61 specimens, +including 27 species; of the latter there are 21 species of Rhopalocera +and 6 of Heterocera. Of the Rhopalocera I have described three species +as new, and a fourth, a _Chrysophanus_, of which only one specimen of a +female is in the collection, remains unnamed, though it too is probably +new. This small collection therefore contains nearly twenty per cent. of +novelties, which must be considered a high proportion. + +But so small is the series that I do not think any comparison of the +Lepidopterous fauna of this region with that of the rest of Africa can +be entered upon with advantage. Suffice it to say that by far the +majority of the species are widely distributed African ones; that there +is a northern element, as shown in _Colias edusa_, and perhaps the +_Chrysophanus_; and that there is barely a trace of the Abyssinian fauna +in the materials before me. But these suggestions may all be set aside +whenever a representative collection is made. Of the 27 species no less +than 19 are represented by single specimens. + + + RHOPALOCERA. + +1. DANAIS DORIPPUS. + +_Euplœa dorippus_, Klug, Symb. Phys., Insecta, t. 48. f. 1–5. + +Kilima-njaro, rocky, wooded, and cultivated country and grassy downs, at +4000–5000 feet, July. + +Four examples (2 ♂︎, 2 ♀︎). + +None of these specimens have any white on the secondaries, and agree +best with Fig. 5 of Klug’s plate. _D. dorippus_ is a common East African +species. + +2. ACRÆA JOHNSTONI, sp. nov. + + _Alis anticis rufis, apicibus et marginibus externis (introrsum valde + sinuatis; nigro-fuscis) posticis ad basin et marginibus externis + late nigrescentibus, area discali albida venis fuscis divisa; subtus + anticis fere omnino rufis ad marginem externum canescentibus, venis + nigris et inter eas striolis fuscescentibus; posticis ut supra limbo + externo canescente venis et striolis inter eas diviso; maculis + quibusdam ad basin nigris; palpis, femoribus iuterne, abdomine + infra, et maculis costalibus, rufis; capite et thorace maculis albis + notatis._ + +Kilima-njaro, clearing in forest at 5500 feet, September. + +A single male specimen of this apparently very distinct species. + +3. ACRÆA INSIGNIS. + +_Acræa insignis_, Distant, P. Z. S. 1880, p. 184, t. xix. f. 6. + +_Acræa Buxtoni_, Hew. Ent. Month. Mag. xiv. p. 154. + +Kilima-njaro, wooded hills at 5000 feet, August. + +This insect was first described by Hewitson from examples procured by +Buxton in the neighbourhood of Zanzibar, and was named by him after its +discoverer. Mr. Distant pointed out that the name _A. Buxtoni_ had been +already applied to another species by Mr. Butler, and hence renamed it +as above. Our collection contains a good series of this insect, chiefly +taken by Mr. Last at Mamboia in Eastern Central Africa. These exhibit +considerable variation in the amount of black at the base of the +secondaries, for while some specimens have only four or five isolated +spots, others have a large confluent patch occupying the basal third of +these wings, and between these two extremes we have every intermediate, +all captured in the same locality and at the same time. + +Mr. Johnston procured but a single example, which has the confluent +black patch, and agrees in this respect with some of our own specimens +from Mamboia. + +4. ACRÆA BRÆSIA, sp. nov. + + _Alis anticis semihyalinis ad basin rosaceo suffusis macula in cellula + altera ad finem ejus quinque in serie fere recta ultra eam, una + inter ramos medianos, duabus inter ramum medianum primum et venam + submedianano nigris, margine externo fusco nigro maculis lunulatis + submarginalibus rufis, posticis rosaceis ad basin obscurioribus + margine externo nigro area discali plus minusve maculata; subtus + anticis fere ut supra posticis flavidis nigro distincte maculatis, + ad basin et marginem internum rosaceo notatis, margine externo nigro + lunulis septem flavidis includente; fronte, palpis et pedibus + fulvis; abdomine subtus flavido, lateribus albo maculatis; capite, + prothorace et thorace albido distincte maculatis._ + +Kilima-njaro, in wooded country at 5000 feet, August. + +A single male specimen allied to _A. oncæa_, differing in its diaphanous +primaries and its more rosy secondaries. + +5. ACRÆA NATALICA. + +_Acræa natalica_, Boisd. Voy. Deleg. ii. p. 590; Hopff. Pet. Reise, +Zool. v. p. 371, t. 23. f. 12, 13. + +Kilima-njaro, grassy downs at 6000 feet, June. + +One example (♀︎). + +Agrees best with specimens of this species, but the disk of the +secondaries is whiter and the spots in general are larger. + +6. PYRAMEIS CARDUI. + +_Papilio cardui_, Linn. Syst. Nat. i. p. 276. + +Kilima-njaro, in thin forest country at 7000 feet, July. + +One much worn male. + +7. JUNONIA CLELIA. + +_Papilio cletia_, Cram. Pap. Exot. t. 21. f. E, F. + +Kilima-njaro, rocky country at 4000 and 5000 feet, wooded country and +grassy downs at 5000 feet, June and July. + +8. JUNONIA ÆNONE. + +_Papilio ænone_, Linn. Mus. Ulr. pp. 274, 275. + +Kilima-njaro, in rocky, grassy, and wooded country at 5000 feet, wooded +country at 6000 feet, June and July. + +Six specimens, all males, of this widely ranging species. + +9. PRECIS SESAMUS. + +_Precis sesamus_, Trimen, Trans. Ent. Soc. 1883, p. 347. + +Kilima-njaro, forest country at 7000 feet, July. + +One example (♂︎). + +10. LYCÆNA GAIKA. + +_Lycæna gaika_, Trimen, Trans. Ent. Soc. 3rd ser. i. p. 403. + +Kilima-njaro, grassy downs at 5000 feet, June. + +One male. + +The single specimen agrees with Trimen’s description and with our series +of this species. It appears to us to be distinct from _L. lysamon_, with +which Mr. Trimen united his _L. gaika_ in the “Rhopalocera Africæ +Australis.” Both species occur in South Africa, but _L. lysamon_ may +always be distinguished by the presence of a black spot within the cell +of the primaries. + +11. CHRYSOPHANUS, sp.? + +Kilima-njaro, grassy downs at 5000 feet, June. + +A single female example of a true _Chrysophanus_, which we are unable to +recognize and which we hesitate to describe without specimens of the +other sex. + +12. TERIAS RAHEL? + +_Papilio rahel_, Fabr. Ent. Syst. iii. p. 204 (apud Trimen). + +Kilima-njaro, wooded country at 5000 feet, August. + +A single female specimen, which we cannot undertake to determine with +certainty without examples of the other sex. It may possibly be a female +of _T. candace_, Feld., from Abyssinia. + +13. PIERIS SEVERINA. + +_Papilio severina_, Cram. Pap. Exot. t. 338, f. G, H. + +Kilima-njaro, wooded country at 5000 to 6000 feet, July and August. +Taveita, dense forest at 2300 feet, September. + +One male and three females. + +14. PIERIS HELLICA. + +_Papilio hellica_, Linn. Syst. Nat. i. p. 760. + +Kilima-njaro, wooded, rocky, and cultivated ground, grassy downs, at +4000 to 5500 feet, July and August. + +Thirteen males and one female. + +All the specimens have the primaries rather more pointed, with a +slightly blacker apex, and the colouring of the underside is brighter +than in the examples in our collection. + +15. ERONIA CLEODORA. + +_Eronia cleodora_, Hübn. Samml. exot. Schmett. ii. t. 130. + +Tavieta, in dense forest at 2300 feet. + +16. CALLIDRYAS PYRENE. + +_Colias pyrene_, Swains. Zool. Ill. i. t. 51. + +Kilima-njaro, in wooded country at 5000 feet. + +Two females only. + +17. CALLIDRYAS FLORELLA. + +_Papilio florella_, Fabr. Syst. Ent. p. 479. + +Kilima-njaro, in wooded country at 6000 feet. + +A single female specimen. + +18. COLIAS EDUSA. + +_Papilio edusa_, Fabr. Mant. Ins. ii. p. 23. + +Kiliman-njaro, wooded and grassy country at 4000 and 5000 feet, July. + +Four males and one female. + +19. TERACOLUS AURIGINIUS. + +_Teracolus auriginius_, Butl. Ann. Mag. Nat. Hist. ser. 5, vol. xii. p. +103. + +Kilima-njaro, in wooded and grassy country, 5000 and 6000 feet. + +Two examples agreeing with specimens in the British Museum thus named by +Mr. Butler. + +20. PAPILIO DEMOLEUS. + +_Papilio demoleus_, Linn. Syst. Nat. i. p. 753. + +Kilima-njaro, in wooded country at 5000 feet, August. + +A single specimen of this common African species. + +21. PAPILIO BRONTES, sp. nov. + + _Alis nigris fascia lata communi, ad costam anticarum disjuncta, + metallico-cæruleo, macula parva ad anticarum apicem et posticis + serie submarginali ejusdem coloris; subtus fusco-nigris anticis ad + apicem et posticis omnino, brunnescentioribus, his venis et striis + tribus in cellula longitudinalibus nigris, fascia communi + submarginali a vena mediana anticarum ad angulum posticarum analem + transeunte, venis nigris divisa, in anticis quoque inter venas + bisecta lactescente-alba, margine posticarum interno maculis parvis + duabus ejusdem coloris, posticis subcaudatis, vena mediana + producta._ + +Kilima-njaro, in forest country at 5000 feet, August. + +Allied to _Papilio bromius_, but the transverse band is of a deeper +blue, both wings are less elongated, the secondaries are more acutely +produced at the anal angle. Beneath, the light coloured submarginal band +is straighter on the secondaries and less broken up, moreover it is +extended on the primaries as far as the median nervure beyond the cell, +the apex of primaries and the secondaries are browner and though the +latter have three radiating streaks in the cell as in _P. bromius_, +there are no intervenal streaks beyond it. + +A single male specimen is the only one Mr. Johnston obtained. + + + HETEROCERA. + +Mr. Johnston’s collection contains six specimens of as many species of +Heterocera, and for these Mr. Butler has kindly given us the following +names. + +22. ACHERONTIA ATROPOS. + +Kilima-njaro, forest at 3000 feet, September. + +23. MECYNA POLYGONALIS. + +Kilima-njaro, wooded country at 5000 feet, August. + +24. HYPINA, sp.? + +Kilima-njaro, wooded country at 5000 feet, July. + +25. STERRHA OACRARIA. + +Kilima-njaro, scrubby heath at 8000 feet, July. + +26. PRODENIA? + +Kilima-njaro, wooded country at 5000 feet, September. + +27. AMYNA, sp.? + +Kilima-njaro, wooded country at 5500 feet, August. + + + 4. ON THE INSECTS COLLECTED ON KILIMA-NJARO BY MR. H. H. JOHNSTON. By + CHAS. O. WATERHOUSE. + + + COLEOPTERA.[40] + +The series of Coleoptera collected by Mr. Johnston comprises examples of +fifty-six species. Many of them belong to widely distributed genera and +are not of special interest. + +Of the nine species taken at an elevation of 10,000 to 14,000 feet, the +following are worthy of note:—Two male examples of _Carabus Deckeni_, +Gerstaecker, which was described from a single female example found in +this mountain. The species, however, proves to be a _Calosoma_, and not +a _Carabus_, and is nearly allied to a species found in Abyssinia. + +There is a single specimen of one of the Trichiidæ, which I have +provisionally placed in the genus _Calometopus_, although the clypeus +not being emarginate it is possible that a new genus may have to be made +for its reception. I have named the species _Calometopus planatus_. +There are only two species of this genus known, _C. senegalensis_ and +_C. nyassæ_. + +The third species which I would mention is one of the Heteromera of the +family Moluridæ. I have named it _Melanolophus ater_; it appears to be +most nearly allied to _M. septemcostatus_, described by Fairmaire in +Revoil’s “Faune et Flore des Pays Çomalis,” but which, if I have +correctly determined it, occurs also in Abyssinia. + +Of the species found at lower elevations the majority, so far as I have +identified them, are only known from South-east Africa (e.g. _Melyris +parvula_, Gerst., _Himatismus buprestoides_, Gerst., _Amiantus +castanopterus_, Haag, _Sepidium muscorum_, Gerst., _Anomalipus +heraldicus_, Gerst., _Mylabris kersteni_, Gerst., _Epicauta dichrocera_, +Gerst., _Rhopalizus sansibaricus_, Gerst., _Phrissoma giganteum_, +Guérin); others are found in most parts of Africa (e.g. _Calosoma +senegalensis_, Dej., _Oryctes boas_, Fabr.). + +Of the new species which I describe, _Scarabæus cribricollis_ has its +nearest ally, so far as I know, in an Indian species _S. sanctus_, +Fabr.; _Amblysterna Johnstoni_ is nearest to _A. natalensis_, Fabr. + + + CARABIDÆ. + +CARABUS DECKENI, Gerst. + +This interesting species was described by Dr. Gerstaecker (Wiegm. Arch. +f. Naturg., 1867, p. 10; Von der Decken’s Reise in Ost-Africa, iii. p. +56, pl. iv. f. 2) from a single female example found by Dr. Kersten on +Kilima-njaro at an elevation of 8000 feet. + +The two examples male and female found by Mr. Johnston differ from the +female described by Dr. Gerstaecker in being rather smaller (only 13 +millim. long), and, so far as one can judge from description, in having +the elytra smoother with less impressed striæ. + +Dr. Gerstaecker remarks on the fact of a species of _Carabus_ being +found in this locality, none ever having been found before in South +Africa. The species, however, is not a _Carabus_, but a _Calosoma_, as +is indicated by the compressed third joint of the antennæ; a character +which Dr. Gerstaecker overlooked when he stated that the separate joints +of the antennæ are formed as in _Carabus pumilio_. + + + SCARABÆIDÆ. + +SCARABÆUS CRIBRICOLLIS, n. sp. + +Black, somewhat dull. Head closely and very strongly punctured, the +punctures longitudinally confluent on the front of the clypeus, the +anterior teeth of which are rather acute and moderately reflexed. Thorax +nearly twice as broad as long, moderately convex, with a transverse +impression in the middle of the base. In the middle of the disk is a +shining (but finely punctured) line, which does not extend much beyond +the middle; all the rest of the surface is strongly punctured; the +punctures near the shining line are a little separated from each other, +but at the sides and on the fore part they are crowded together and +asperate; the sides are strongly rounded, finely serrate, and fringed +with black hair. The elytra are a little narrower than the thorax, very +slightly narrowed posteriorly, dull, but with the suture shining; the +striæ are fine, the interstices flat and finely coriaceous (except the +sutural interstices and the scutellar region), with numerous dull +shallow punctiform impressions placed very irregularly. Femora and tibiæ +fringed with black hair. Sternum smooth and shining, with a well-marked +broad impression between the intermediate legs. + +Length 22 millim. + +This species most nearly resembles the Indian _Scarabæus sanctus_, Fabr. +The sides of the thorax are, however, more regularly rounded, much less +sinuate before the posterior angles; the shining discoidal line is +broader, and there are no smooth spots on each side of this line. The +elytra have the striæ finer and neater, the interstices are flatter, +coriaceous, with the punctiform impressions smaller and more separated +from each other. + +ONTHOPHAGUS JOHNSTONI, n. sp. + +Entirely black, except the apex of the antennæ, which is rusty-yellow. +Head as long as broad, obliquely narrowed in front of the middle, +rounded at the apex, closely and coarsely rugose, except near the eyes. +There is a slightly raised straight ridge between the eyes, and a +second, longer one halfway between this and the front of the clypeus. +The thorax is smooth, shining at the sides and in front, slightly dull +above; the fore part is perpendicularly truncate; the truncature bounded +above by a slightly prominent ridge; viewed from the front there are +three shallow impressions: on each side there is a line of small +tubercles bounding the discoidal area; the surface of the disk is +moderately closely but extremely delicately punctured, and appears +impunctate to the naked eye; the sides are more distinctly punctured: +the base is oblique on each side, and is angularly produced in the +middle. The elytra are convex, shining, not quite twice as wide as the +length at the suture, rounded at the sides and apex, very delicately +striated, the striæ delicately punctured; the interstices flat, +sparingly punctured; near the suture the punctures are extremely +delicate but become more distinct towards the sides. The pygidium is +rather sparingly but distinctly punctured. The sides of the sterna, the +margins of the femora, and the posterior tibiæ are fringed with long +black hair. + +Length 21–25 millim. + +I know of no species which much resembles this. Its most near ally is a +species which I have seen named _O. noctis_, Th., in Mr. Bates’s +collection. The species has somewhat the general build of _O. marsyas_, +Ol.; the head is longer, the clypeus not sinuous at the sides; the +thorax rather flatter above, with a prominent, nearly straight ridge in +front above the anterior perpendicular truncature; the anterior angles +are as if truncated; the base is more angularly produced in the middle +of the base; the elytra are scarcely narrowed at the base, &c. + + + TRICHIIDÆ. + +CALOMETOPUS? PLANATUS, n. sp. + +Nearly black; the elytra dark testaceous, with the suture, margins, and +a lunate spot near the scutellum smoky black. Antennæ and tibiæ reddish +yellow, the margins of the abdominal segments pale yellow. Head very +closely and rather strongly punctured; the clypeus more finely +punctured, a little broader than long, _not_ emarginate at the apex, but +slightly arcuate, the angles obtuse; all the margins reflexed. Thorax a +very little broader than long, moderately convex, very strongly and +rather closely punctured, parallel at the sides to considerably in front +of the middle, where it is obliquely narrowed; the anterior angles +nearly right-angles, very slightly prominent; the posterior angles +obtusely rounded; the base gently arcuate and margined: on the disk +there is a slight impression a little in front of the middle: the sides +have the lateral ridge only behind the middle and at the anterior angle; +the slightly swollen under flank is thus not separated from the upper +surface of the thorax in front of the middle. Scutellum elongate, +triangular, strongly punctured. Elytra twice as broad as the thorax, a +little longer than broad; flat, with the sides nearly perpendicularly +deflexed; dull, the suture and sublateral ridge shining: each elytron +with six somewhat irregular dorsal lines of dark punctures; the apex +closely rugulose. Pygidium closely vermiculate-strigose. Club of the +antennæ a little longer than all the previous joints taken together. +Body beneath and the legs sparingly clothed with yellow hair. Anterior +tibiæ obtusely tridentate. The posterior tibiæ with a triangular tooth a +little below the middle; the edge above this tooth with four or five +small teeth. Tarsi long and slender; claws red. Abdomen shining, not +very closely but strongly punctured; the basal segment yellow in the +middle, margined with yellow at the sides. + +Length 12 millim. + +A single example was met with. It is probable that this species may have +to be separated from _Calometopus_ on account of the form of the +clypeus, which is not emarginate. Never having seen the type of the +genus (_C. senegalensis_), I am unable at present to say in what other +way it differs. + + + BUPRESTIDÆ. + +AMBLYSTERNA JOHNSTONI, n. sp. + +Size and general form of _A. natalensis_, Fabr. Golden green, shining, +the underside and legs coppery, the sides of the abdomen violet. Thorax +more convex than in _A. natalensis_, more closely and much more strongly +punctured; the sides more regularly arcuate, with only a very small +lateral impression; the dorsal median channel well-marked. Elytra very +strongly and irregularly punctured, with small punctures interspersed; +the punctures near the shoulders are somewhat transverse, and the +interspaces being very narrow become transverse rugæ. All the large +punctures are finely punctured and filled with pale pubescence, which +gives the elytra a speckled appearance. The lateral and apical costæ are +as in _A. natalensis_, but not so strongly marked, and there is no +lateral stripe above the lateral costa. Antennæ black, with the opaque +portions smoky. Underside of the body somewhat violet, the abdominal +segments margined with green. Legs coppery. + +Length 25 millim. + +PSILOPTERA LÆTA, n. sp. (Illustrated P. Z. S. 1885, p. 235.) + +Rather parallel, depressed, bluish green above, brassy green below. Head +very rugose. Thorax nearly one-third broader than long, a little broader +across the middle than at the base, and then obliquely narrowed in +front, with a shallow median impression and one on each side; the +surface rather strongly but very irregularly punctured, coarsely +rugulose-punctate at the sides; the irregular space on each side of the +median impression sparingly punctured, shining coppery; and a little +more removed from the middle there is an irregular-shaped coppery spot a +little in front of the middle. Scutellum black. Elytra nearly parallel +for two-thirds their length, then narrowed to the apex, not very convex, +with lines of somewhat strong punctures; the alternate interstices flat, +the others in parts very slightly convex; the flat interstices are +strongly and not very closely punctured; the others have each about +eight ovate finely punctured impressions; the raised parts smooth and +slightly brassy. At the sides there is a submarginal, closely, and +finely punctured impressed line, extending from under the shoulder to +near the apex; in this stripe there is some very fine whitish +pubescence, which is only visible in certain lights. Prosternum with a +triangular projection on each side of the front margin. Abdomen +irregularly and strongly punctured, and finely pubescent. + +Length 30 millim. + + + MOLURIDÆ. + +MELANOLOPHUS ATER, n. sp. (Illustrated P. Z. S. 1885, p. 235.) + +Dull black. Head closely and strongly punctured, with a slight +impression on the forehead. Antennæ with the third joint nearly as long +as the fourth and fifth taken together; the fourth joint a little longer +than broad, the following joints very similar; the tenth joint the same +length as the ninth, but broader than long; the eleventh as broad as the +tenth, but short, truncate at the apex. Thorax as long as broad, or even +a trifle longer, very convex (densely and strongly punctured, the +intervals irregular, shining, rugæ or granules), moderately narrowed at +the base and apex; arcuate at the sides, with no lateral ridge; the +front margin nearly straight, the anterior angles not prominent, the +base slightly bowed. Elytra not quite twice as broad as the thorax, +oblong-ovate, moderately convex; each elytron with three zigzag shining +costæ (two dorsal, one lateral), the interstices plicate and rugulose; +the suture not costiform. The sides of the elytra shining, the surface +uneven and sparingly punctured. Prosternal process closely and rather +strongly punctured; the meso- and metasterna less so. Abdomen dull, very +finely punctured, the punctuation of the apical segment rather stronger. +Legs rugose, _not_ clothed with paler tomentum. + +Length 14–15 millim. + +The females are rather broader than the males, especially in the elytra, +which are more oblong and somewhat flattened dorsally. The males have +two very small shining spots on the disk of the thorax in front of the +middle, and there is an indication of a fine median line. + +I have been in doubt whether to place this species in the genus +_Amiantus_ or the more recent genus _Melanolophus_, Fairm. (Faun, et Fl. +des Pays Çomalis, 1882, p. 69). The general form is, however, more that +of _Melanolophus_, but the suture of the elytra is not costiform. The +anterior angles of the thorax are not produced forward as in _Amiantus_. +The antennæ are rather shorter than in either of these genera. + + + HYMENOPTERA, ORTHOPTERA, &c. + +The other Insects collected by Mr. Johnston do not present anything +remarkable. There is, however, a very fine specimen of Mantis (_Idolum +diabolicum_, Saussure), of which a male example in the British Museum is +from the White Nile. + + + LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED OR OBSERVED ON KILIMA-NJARO AND ITS + VICINITY.[41] + +BY CAPTAIN G. E. SHELLEY, F.Z.S., AND MR. H. H. JOHNSTON, F.Z.S. + +⁂ Those birds which were only observed by the author, and the skins of +which were not obtained, have their numbers inserted in brackets. + +1. ALSEONAX MINIMA (Heugl.). + +_Muscicapa minima_, Heugl. Orn. N. O.-Afr. p. 435, pl. 18. f. 1. ♂︎, 4000 +feet; ♂︎, 6000 feet; ♂︎, 7000 feet. + +2. MUSCICAPA JOHNSTONI. + +_Muscicapa Johnstoni_, Shelley, P. Z. S. 1884, p. 558. + +♀︎, 6000 feet. + +Found on the southern slope of the mountain just above Moši, on the +borders of the cultivated district. + +3. LANIUS CAUDATUS, Cab. + +_Lanius caudatus_, Gadow, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. viii. p. 254; Fischer, +Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 344. + +♂︎, 3000 feet. In immature plumage. + +This species affects the desert and waterless districts at the foot of +the mountain, where it perches upon the low shrubs, and pounces upon the +grasshoppers, which are very abundant in these districts, and form its +principal food. + +4. LANIUS COLLARIS, Linn. + +_Lanius collaris_, Gadow, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. viii. 1883, p. 255. + +_Lanius humeralis_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +344. + +♂︎, 4000 feet; ♂︎ ♀︎, 5000 feet; ♂︎, 6000 feet; 2 ♀︎, 7000 feet. + +One of the commonest birds on the mountain, and very bold. + +5. DRYOSCOPUS SUBLACTEUS, Cass. + +_Dryoscopus sublacteus_, Gadow, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. viii. 1883, p. 140; +Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 348. + +♂︎, 3000 feet; ♂︎, 5000 feet; ♂︎, 8000 feet. + +6. DRYOSCOPUS CUBLA (Shaw). + +_Dryoscopus cubla_, Gadow, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. viii. p. 148; Fischer, +Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 345. + +♂︎ ♀︎, 3000 feet; ♂︎, 5000 feet; ♂︎, not labelled. The female had the irides +scarlet. + +7. CRATEROPUS KIRKI, Sharpe. + +_Crateropus Kirki_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +316. + +♂︎, 5000 feet. + +Very common and bold. + +8. PYCNONOTUS LAYARDI, Gurney. + +_Pycnonotus Layardi_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. vi. 1881, p. 132; +Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 341. + +♀︎, 3000 feet; 2 ♀︎, 5000 feet. + +9. TURDUS CABANISI, Bp. + +_Turdus cabanisi_, Seebohm, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. v. 1881, p. 229. + +♂︎, 5000 feet; ♂︎, 6000 feet. + +The most northern locality of this species, whence it ranges southward +on the east coast to the Transvaal. + +Almost confined to inhabited districts. + +10. PINAROCHROA HYPOSPODIA, sp. n.[42] + +Kilima-njaro, ♀︎, 14,000 feet. + +Close to _P. sordida_ (Rüpp.), which is the type of the genus +_Pinarochroa_; but the present bird is slightly larger, paler and less +isabelline beneath, and has the white on the tail more limited, each +feather having broad blackish-brown ends. + +Upper parts brown, slightly darker on the crown and quills; tail—the +four outer pairs of feathers white with broad blackish-brown ends; this +colour extends somewhat down their shafts, and covers about one-third of +the end-portion of the outer web of the exterior feather, and nearly the +entire inner web of the third feather from the centre; the centre two +pairs entirely black. The wing-coverts and inner secondaries are broadly +edged with sandy brown, and the remainder of the quills have almost +obsolete similarly coloured edges. Sides of the head in front of the eye +and the cheeks slightly washed with ashy brown. Underparts ashy buff, +slightly darker on the lower throat and front and sides of the chest, +and passing into rufous-shaded brown on the flanks, thighs, and under +tail-coverts; under surface of the wings dark brown with the coverts +rufous-brown; the axillaries and inner margins of the quills ashy buff. +Total length 5–7 inches, culmen 0·55, wing 3, tail 2·2, tarsus 1·25. + +Found only at great altitudes, affecting the grassy and boulder regions, +where they are to be seen in family parties of from three to five. Here +they enliven the desert scenery by flitting before the traveller with a +constantly repeated pleasing chirp, and perched upon the boulders flit +their tails up and down after the manner of Chats. + +11. PRATINCOLA AXILLARIS. + +_Pratincola axillaris_, Shelley, P. Z. S. 1884, p. 556. + +♂︎ ♀︎, 5000 feet; 3 ♂︎, 6000 feet; ♀︎, 7000 feet; ♂︎, 8000 feet; ♂︎, 10,000 +feet. Breeds in September. + +Very abundant but not met with below 5000 feet. They are bold, and +frequent the native villages in their lower range. + +12. PRINIA MYSTACEA, Rüpp. + +_Prinia mystacea_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. vii. p. 191. + +_Drymæca tenella_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 312. +♂︎ ♀︎, 5000 feet. + +13. CISTICOLA SUBRUFICAPILLA (Smith). + +_Cisticola subruficapilla_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. vii. p. 283. + +♂︎, 5500 feet; ♀︎, 8000 feet. + +14. NECTARINIA FAMOSA (Linn.). + +_Nectarinia famosa_, Shelley, Monogr. Nect. p. 13, pl. 5. + +♂︎ in partial moult, 2 ♀︎, 5000 feet; ♀︎, 6000 feet; ♂︎ in moult, 7000 feet. + +Very abundant. + +15. NECTARINIA JOHNSTONI, sp. n.[43] + +♂︎, Kilima-njaro, 11,000 feet. + +Very similar in size, form, and colour to _N. famosa_, but readily +distinguished by the pectoral tufts being bright scarlet. + +Entire head, neck, back, least and median wing-coverts, and chest +metallic green, with the base of the feathers black; a small black patch +from the gape to the eye. The head, neck, and back have a slight golden +shade, not so strong as is generally the case in _N. famosa_, while the +rump and upper tail-coverts have a bluish lustre; remainder of the wings +brownish black with a slight purple gloss; the greater wing-coverts are +partially edged with metallic green, shaded with bronzy violet on a few +of the outer feathers; the primary-coverts and the greater secondaries +show, in certain lights, faint indications of similar metallic edges. +Tail purplish black, the feathers towards the centre being narrowly and +partially edged with bluish green. Axillary tufts bright scarlet; +abdomen, thighs, and under surface of the wings blackish brown; under +tail-coverts purplish black, with slight traces of metallic bluish-green +margins to a few of the feathers. The under wing-coverts towards the +bend of the wing are tipped with metallic green. Bill and legs black. +Total length 10·6 inches, culmen 1·25, wing 3·3, tail 6·6, tarsus 0·7. + +Very abundant. Not seen lower than 5000 or 6000 feet, but reaches higher +up the mountain than any other bird with the exception of _Corvultur +albicollis_ and _Pinarochroa hypospodia_. Found very much round a +curious teazle-like lobelia (_L. Deckeni_). Also at lower levels it +affects the tall aloe flower-shoots. + +16. NECTARINIA KILIMENSIS, Shelley. + +_Nectarinia kilimensis_, Shelley, P. Z. S. 1884, p. 555. + +Two ♂︎, 3000 feet; ♂︎ ♀︎, 4000 feet; 4 ♂︎, 5000 feet; ♀︎, 5600 feet; ♂︎, not +labelled. + +Found mostly near base of mountain, very common. Rarely if ever seen +above 5600 feet. + +17. NECTARINIA REICHENOWI (Fischer).[44] + +_Nectarinia Reichenowi_, Shelley, P. Z. S. 1884, p. 556, pl. 51. + +_Drepanorhynchus Reichenowi_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), +1884, p. 338. + +♂︎, 4000 feet; 2 ♀︎, 5000 feet. Never seen above 5000 feet. + +They abound in the native plantations, being, in common with most of the +other Sun-birds, attracted there by the flowers of the sweet potato and +of various beans and peas. + +18. CINNYRIS AFFINIS, Rüpp. + +_Cinnyris affinis_, Shelley, Monogr. Nect. p. 239, pl. 74. fig. 2. + +♂︎, 4000 feet; ♂︎, 5000 feet; ♂︎, not labelled. + +Very abundant at low levels. + +19. CINNYRIS MEDIOCRIS, sp. n. + +♂︎, Kilima-njaro, 12,000 feet. + +Intermediate between _C. chalybeus_ and _C. chloropygius_, but with the +bills lightly more curved than in either. It resembles _C. chalybeus_ in +the colouring of the metallic parts, having the blue terminal collar to +the throat and blue upper tail-coverts; but differs from that species +and resembles _C. chloropygius_ in the colouring of the abdomen, thighs, +under tail-coverts, and wings, which are darker and more olive than in +_C. chalybeus_. + +Entire head, neck, back, least and median wing-coverts uniform metallic +golden green; upper tail-coverts steel-blue; remainder of the wings dark +brown, with the margins of the feathers shaded with olive; the green of +the throat terminates in a narrow steel-blue collar, followed by a broad +scarlet collar; pectoral tufts yellow; remainder of the underparts +brownish olive, slightly washed with olive-yellow; thighs dark-brown; +bill and legs black. Total length 4·6 inches, culmen 0.7, wing 2·1, tail +2, tarsus 0·7. + +Fairly abundant. Only remarked in upper regions. + +20. CINNYRIS KIRKI, Shelley. + +_Cinnyris Kirki_, Shelley, Monogr. Nect. p. 273, pl. 85; Fischer, +Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1885, p. 339. + +♂︎ in moult, 3000 feet; ♂︎ ♀︎, 5000 feet; ♀︎, 7000 feet. + +21. MOTACILLA LONGICAUDA, Rüpp. + +_Motacilla longicauda_, Rüpp, Neue Wirb. pl. 29. fig. 2. + +Two ♂︎, 6000 feet. + +22. POLIOSPIZA TRISTRIATA, Rüpp. + +_Poliospiza tristriata_, Heugl. Orn. N.O.-Afr. p. 642. + +♀︎, 8000 feet. Found in small flocks. + +23. CITRINELLA CITRINELLOIDES, Rüpp. + +_Citrinella citrinelloides_, Heugl. Orn. N.O.-Afr. p. 644. + +♀︎, 6000 feet; ♂︎, 7000 feet. + +24. VIDUA PRINCIPALIS (Linn.). + +_Vidua principalis_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +325. + +Two ♂︎, 5000 feet. + +25. ?PENTHETRIA EQUES, Hartl. + +_Penthetria eques_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +326. + +♂︎, 5000 feet; ♀︎, 7000 feet. + +These are immature specimens or in the brown winter plumage, and can +therefore only be doubtfully referred to this species. + +26. HYPHANTORNIS OCULARIUS (Smith). + +_Hyphantornis ocularius_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, +p. 331. + +♂︎, 2300 feet; ♂︎, 6000 feet. + +27. SYCOBROTUS REICHENOWI, Fischer. + +_Sycobrotus Reichenowi_, Shelley, P. Z. S. 1884, p. 557. + +_Hyphanturgus Reichenowi_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, +p. 331. + +2 ♂︎, 3 ♀︎, 5000 feet; ♂︎, 6000 feet. + +Breeds in colonies, especially affecting palm-trees. + +28. ORIOLUS NOTATUS, Peters. + +_Oriolus notatus_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. iii. p. 196; Fischer, +Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 334. + +♂︎, 2500 feet. Irides carmine. + +29. AMYDRUS MORIO (Linn.). + +♂︎, 7000 feet. + +This is a full adult male, agreeing perfectly in its measurements with +Natal specimens. + +Met with in small flocks of five or six. They utter a low pleasing cry +or soft whistle and frequent small thickets. + +30. CORVULTUR ALBICOLLIS (Lath.). + +_Corvultur albicollis_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. iii. p. 24. + +_Archicorax albicollis_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, +p. 336. + +♂︎, 5000 feet. + +Inhabits the whole mountain up to the snow, and breeds in August in +crevices in the most inaccessible rocks. + +31. CORVUS SCAPULATUS, Daud. + +_Corvus scapulatus_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. iii. 1877, p. 22; +Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 337. + +♀︎, 5000 feet. + +More a bird of the plains than the mountainous region, where its place +is taken by _Corvultur_. + +32. BARBATULA LEUCOTIS, Sundev. + +_Barbatula leucotis_, Marshalls, Monogr. Capitonidæ, p. 131, pl. 52. + +_Megalæma leucotis_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +371. + +♂︎, 3000 feet; ♀︎, 6000 feet. + +It inhabits the dense forest, where its presence is often proclaimed by +its harsh strident note, which it repeats at intervals, and being a bold +bird is easily killed. The first pair were met with at Taveita, perched +on the bough of a mimosa, and others were seen on the southern flank of +the mountain up to 6000 feet. + +[33.] DENDROPICUS sp. + +Shot in country of Taita, alt. 3000 feet. Skin lost. + +34. HAPALODERMA NARINA (Vieill.). + +_Hapaloderma narina_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +368. + +♂︎, 3000 feet. + +This specimen agrees better with the Natal birds, with which we have +compared it, than with the equatorial race, _H. constantia_, Sharpe. + +Only one specimen seen at Taveita, in the forest, and must be scarce, as +the natives appear to have no name for it. + +35. EURYSTOMUS AFER (Lath.). + +_Eurystomus afer_, Sharpe, Ibis, 1871, p. 274. + +Two ♂︎, 4000 feet. + +Often mob birds of prey. + +36. HALCYON ORIENTALIS, Peters. + +_Halcyon orientalis_, Sharpe, Monogr. Alcedinidæ, p. 181, pl. 66; +Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 361. + +♂︎, 5000 feet. + +Feeds principally upon the small crabs which inhabit the +mountain-streams. + +37. BUCEROS CRISTATUS, Rüpp. + +_Bycanistes cristatus_; Elliot, Monogr. Bucerotidæ, pl. 26. + +_Buceros cristatus_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +361. + +♂︎, 4000 feet; ♀︎, 5000 feet; ♀︎, 6000 feet. + +Generally distributed over the mountain up to 6000 feet, especially near +habitations. They show no fear of man, being generally protected by the +natives, who look upon them with superstitious awe, arising possibly +from their being useful scavengers, as well as from their peculiar loud +cry, which resembles at times that of the wailing of a woman in +distress, at others that of the braying of an ass. In August and +September they were breeding, and occasionally the head of the female +might be seen peering out from a hole in a tree some thirty or forty +feet high, where she had been plastered in by her affectionate husband. +By the chips lying about, it would appear that these holes are excavated +by the birds to the required size. They are monogamous, and show great +affection for each other, which is fortunate, as the female during +incubation has entirely to rely on her mate for daily subsistence. + +38. BUCEROS MELANOLEUCUS, Licht. + +_Tockus melanoleucus_, Elliot, Monogr. Bucerotidæ, pl. 49. + +♂︎ ♀︎, 5000 feet. + +[39.] BUCORVUS ABYSSINICUS. + +The ground hornbill, very frequently seen on Kilima-njaro and elsewhere +in vicinity of native villages, not higher than 5000 feet. Never noticed +in open country away from human habitations. Rigorously protected by +natives, on account of its scavenging habits. + +40. TURACUS HARTLAUBI (Fischer and Reichenow). + +_Corythaix Hartlaubi_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn.(Madaraz), 1884, p. +363. + +♂︎ ♀︎, 10,000 feet. Bill red and green. Skin round the eyes scarlet. Sexes +similar. + +It frequents the forest, and is most abundant at about 9000 feet. Its +loud cry may be frequently heard, but it is difficult to see amongst the +thick foliage, and still more difficult to approach, being very shy. + +41. COLIUS LEUCOTIS, Rüpp. + +_Colius leucotis_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 363. + +♂︎, 5000 feet; 2 ♂︎, 6000 feet. + +[42.] PŒOCEPHALUS RÜPPELLII. + +Observed in the country of Taita. + +Not met with on Kilima-njaro. + +43. FRANCOLINUS SCHUETTI, Cab. + +_Francolinus (Scleroptera) Schuetti_, Cab. J. f. O. 1880, p. 351; 1881, +pl. 2. + +_Francolinus Schuetti_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +382. + +♂︎, 6000 feet. + +Frequents the rocks and was very abundant at 5000 feet. It was not met +with in the plains. + +44. FRANCOLINUS ALTUMI, Fischer and Reichen. + +_Francolinus Altumi_, Fischer and Reichen. J. f. O. 1884, p. 179, pl. 2; +Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 383. + +♂︎, 6000 feet. + +This species frequents the plains more than the mountains. + +[45.] NUMIDA CRISTATA. + +The crested guinea-fowl. Often killed in plains and ravines at the base +of the mountain. + +[46.] NUMIDA CORNUTA. + +Very common in low country. + +[47.] COTURNIX HISTRIONICA. + +Common in plains. + +[48.] OTIS sp. + +Frequently met with in plains at base of the mountain. + +[49.] LOBIVANELLUS ALBICEPS. + +On Lake ǰipé. + +[50.] STERNA CASPIA. + +On Lake ǰipé, + +[51.] TRERON WAKEFIELDI, Sharpe. + +_Treron Wakefieldi_, Shelley, Ibis, 1883, p. 269. + +Two ♂︎ ♀︎, 5000 feet; ♀︎, 6000 feet. + +Seen generally in pairs, eats the sycamore-figs. + +PROC. ZOOL. SOC.—1885, No. XVI. + +[52.] PALUMBUS ARQUATRIX (Temm.). + +_Palumbus arquatrix_, Shelley, Ibis, 1883, p. 283. + +♂︎, 10,000 feet. + +Bare skin round eyes, bill, and feet saffron-yellow. This specimen +agrees perfectly with others from Natal. Only noticed at great altitudes +from 8500 feet to 10,300 feet. Seen in pairs in the dense forests, +sometimes in company with _Turacus Hartlaubi_. + +[53.] TYMPANISTRIA TYMPANISTRIA (Temm.). + +_Tympanistria tympanistria_, Shelley, Ibis, 1883, p. 326. + +_Peristera tympanistria_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, +p. 278. + +♀︎, 5000 ft. + +[54.] TURTUR VINACEUS. + +Everywhere at base of mountain. + +[55.] TURTUR SEMITORQUATUS. + +Common in plains, near water. + +[56.] CHALCOPELIA AFRA. + +In low country. + +[57.] BALEARICA PAVONINA. + +In numbers near Lake ǰipé. + +[58.] PORPHYRIO, sp. + +In the vicinity of Lake ǰipé and the River Ruvu. + +[59.] CHENALOPEX ÆYGYPTIACA. + +Lake ǰipé. + +[60.] ANAS XANTHORHYNCUS? + +Streams at high altitudes, 8000 feet to 11,000 feet. + +[61.] PELICANUS ONOCROTALUS. + +Lake ǰipé. + +[62.] NYCTICORAX, sp.? + +Lake ǰipé and R. Lumi. + +[63.] ARDEA PURPUREA. + +Lake ǰipé and R. Lumi. + +[64.] ARDEA GOLIATH. + +Lake ǰipé. + +[65.] ARDEA ALBA. + +Lake ǰipé. + +[66.] ARDEA BUBULCUS. + +Lake ǰipé and most rivers. This bird often follows the cattle of natives +to pick off the ticks that infest them. + +[67.] SCOPUS UMBRETTA. + +Lake ǰipé and R. Lumi. _Very_ common. + +[68.] XENORHYNCUS SENEGALENSIS. + +Lake ǰipé. + +[69.] LEPTOPTILUS CRUMENIFERUS. + +Very common in plains. Follows the Masai armies in their raids, and +frequents Masai settlements. Rarely seen away from the society of man. + +70. IBIS HAGEDASH (Lath.). + +_Ibis hagedash_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 386. + +♀︎, 3000 feet. Irides scarlet. + +Shot in a marsh near Taveita out of a small flock of ten or twelve. + +[71.] SERPENTARIUS SECRETARIUS. + +The “Secretary Bird.” Very common in the plains. + +72. POLYBOROIDES TYPICUS, Smith. + +_Polyboroides typicus_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. i. p. 48. + +♀︎, 5000 feet. + +Only met with in the neighbourhood of villages. Their feathers and those +of the kite are much prized by the natives for the ornamentation of +their capes. + +[73.] NEOPHRON PERCNOPTERUS. + +The Egyptian vulture. Common up to an alt. of 5000 feet. + +74. NEOPHRON MONACHUS (Temm.). + +_Neophron monachus_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. i. p. 19. + +_Neophron pileatus_, Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. +376. + +♂︎, 5000 feet. + +Not observed higher up the mountain, as it frequents the more thickly +inhabited parts; often in flocks associated with the ground hornbills +and the white-necked ravens. + +[75.] VULTUR CINEREUS? + +Plains round Kilima-njaro. + +[76.] GYPS RÜPPELLII. + +[77.] OTOGYPS? + +Plains round Kilima-njaro. + +[78.] SPIZAETUS, sp. + +Found on Kilima-njaro up to 8000 feet alt. + +[79.] HALIÆTUS VOCIFER. + +Lake ǰipé and Ruvu R. + +[80.] HELIOTARSUS ECAUDATUS. + +Plains round Kilima-njaro. + +81. BUTEO AUGUR, Rüpp. + +_Buteo augur_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. i. p. 175; Fischer, Zeitschr. +ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 374. + +♂︎, 4000 feet; ♂︎, 5000 feet; ♂︎, 8000 feet. + +82. BUTEO DESERTORUM (Daud). + +_Buteo desertorum_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. i. p. 179; Fischer, +Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 374. + +♂︎, 5000 feet. + +83. ASTURINULA MONOGRAMMICA (Temm.). + +_Asturinula monogrammica_, Sharpe, Cat. B. Brit. Mus. i. p. 275; +Fischer, Zeitschr. ges. Orn. (Madaraz), 1884, p. 374. + +♂︎, 5000 feet. + +84. STRUTHIO DANAOIDES, Shelley. + +The ostrich of E. Equatorial Africa. Eggs brought back; collected in +vicinity of Taveita. Young ostriches kept in captivity by me in that +place. + +This ostrich, I am informed by the natives, lives a good deal on insects +and small reptiles, as well as on leaves and herbage. The young +ostriches I kept at Taveita ate raw meat in preference to anything else, +though they would also swallow leaves and chopped grass. + + * * * * * + + + LIST OF MAMMALS OBTAINED AND OBSERVED ON MOUNT KILIMA-NJARO AND ITS + VICINITY. + +By OLDFIELD THOMAS, F.Z.S. With a few additional notes by the Author. + +⁂ The species which have their numbers bracketed were those of which +skins or horns were not brought home, and which were either identified +by the Author in their particular habitat, or approximately named by Mr. +Oldfield Thomas from the Author’s drawings. It is needless to say these +drawings, wherever made, were carefully executed from specimens living +or dead, and their fidelity may be relied on. + +[1.] CYNOCEPHALUS HAMADRYAS. + +Country of Taita and vicinity of River Lumi. + +[2.] CYNOCEPHALUS SPHINX. + +Kilima-njaro up to 6000 feet, especially in vicinity of native villages. +Also in adjacent plains and along the River Lumi. Especially abundant +near Taveita. + +[3.] CYNOCEPHALUS BABOUIN. + +On Kilima-njaro up to 5000 feet, and in and near Taveita. + +[4.] CERCOPITHĒCUS ALBICULARIS. + +In and near Taveita. + +[5.] CERCOPITHĒCUS LALANDII. + +In and near Taveita and along River Lumi. + +[6.] CERCOPITHĒCUS GRISEO-VIRIDIS. + +On Kilima-njaro up to 7000 or 8000 feet, and everywhere near water in +the plains below. Naturally the commonest monkey to be seen. + +7. CERCOPITHĒCUS PYGERYTHRUS, Geoffr. + +_a_, _b_. Moši, on the south side of the mountain, 5000 feet, June to +August. + +Very common in the cultivated gardens round the village, and in the +forests lower down at Taveita. These monkeys are exceedingly familiar +and mischievous, coming into the gardens to steal fruit, &c., and are +entirely without any fear of man. + +8. COLOBUS GUEREZA, Rüpp., var. _caudatus_, var. nov. + +_a._ Useri, N.E. flank of mountain, 3000 feet, end of October. + +Very common all round the base of Kilima-njaro. + +The specimen brought, like two or three beautiful skins obtained by Mr. +Thomson in the same neighbourhood, belongs to a peculiar race or variety +apparently restricted to this region, and characterized by having the +white brush of the tail very much larger and finer than is the case in +the true Abyssinian _C. guereza_. In the latter animal the proximal 12 +to 16 inches of the tail is short-haired and quite black, only the +terminal 8 to 12 inches being white and tufted, and the white mantle +hanging down from the body hides only about one-third of the black part +of the tail. In the Kilima-njaro race, however, only some 3 or 4 inches +of the base of the tail are black, and the remainder (with the hairs +about 20 or 21 inches) is developed into a magnificent white brush, of +which individual hairs are from 7 to 9 inches in length. The hairs of +the white body-mantle, moreover, entirely cover the black at the base of +the tail, the white of the latter and of the mantle being quite +continuous. + +In addition to this race, however, the true Guereza is also found in the +neighbourhood of Kilima-njaro, as the mantle of the lowland Masai +warrior, of whom a drawing is given in Chapter XIX., is made of the skin +of this animal, but this is, of course, a rather vague indication of the +original locality of the specimen. Mr. Johnston tells me that the +natives clearly distinguish the two races, and that the white-tailed +form is, at least in the Kilima-njaro district, a more strictly mountain +animal than the other. + +Taking now into consideration the extreme constancy of the markings of +the _Colobi_, the very different appearance that the present animal has +from the usual type, its restriction to a small district round +Kilima-njaro, and the distinction by the natives of the two forms, I +think it will be necessary to distinguish Mr. Johnston’s animal as a +separate variety or sub-species, to which the name of _C. guereza +caudatus_ might be applied. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 72.—_Colobus Guereza, var. Caudatus._ +] + +[9.] GALAGO CRASSICAUDATA? + +Found in Taita and near the coast, but not on the mountain. + +[10.] CYNONYCTERIS COLLARIS. + +Taveita forests. + +11. VESPERUGO NANUS, Peters. + +Moši, 5000 feet, September 12. Found hanging to a tree in daytime. + +[12.] FELIS LEO, L. + +The lion is abundant in the neighbourhood, but never ascends higher than +about 3000 feet. + +13. FELIS PARDUS, L. + +_a._ Near foot of mountain, 3000 feet. + +The leopard is very common up to about 7500 feet. + +[14.] FELIS SERVAL. + +Skin obtained in Taita. Common in country at base of Kilima-njaro. + +[15.] FELIS CAFFRA. + +Kilima-njaro up to 5000 or 6000 feet, and forest of Taveita. + +[16.] FELIS CARACAL. + +A skin seen near Useri, in possession of natives. According to their +report common in the plains. + +[17.] CYNÆLURUS VENATOR. + +The cheetah appears to be very frequently met with to the north and +north-east of Kilima-njaro. The Masai and Endurobo often bring skins for +sale. One was purchased at Useri, but subsequently lost. + +[18.] VIVERRA CIVETTA. + +Very common near base of mountain. + +19. GENETTA TIGRINA, Schr. + +_a._ Moši, 5000 feet, October. + +_b._ Taveita, 2300 feet, August. + +Very common; occurs up to 7000 feet. A female specimen, caught by Mr. +Johnston, gave birth to three young at about the end of October. + +20. HERPESTES CAFFER, Gm. (?). + +_a._ Moši, 5000 feet, August. + +Is not properly a mountain animal, but occurs round the village for the +sake of the fowls and other prey which it can manage to steal there. + +Without the skull it is impossible to determine with certainty whether +this is _H. ichneumon_, L., or _H. caffer_, Gm.; but the skin has, on +the whole, rather more the appearance of _H. caffer_, and it is, +therefore, provisionally referred to the southern form. + +[21.] HYÆNA CROCUTA. + +Very abundant in vicinity of Kilima-njaro, but scarcely ascends higher +than 3000 feet. + +[22.] HYÆNA STRIATA. + +Found on the mountain from 3000 to 6000 feet. Prowls round native +villages. Also met with in Taveita and Taita. + +23. CANIS LATERALIS, Scl. + +_a._ Moši, 5000 feet, August. + +Very common round the village, to which it is attracted by the chance of +stealing refuse, &c.; not otherwise found much above 3000 feet. + +[24.] CANIS, sp. + +Mr. Johnston several times saw and heard a species of dog or fox, which +he was not able to obtain, but which looked rather like a large fox, and +emitted a distinct bark, similar to that of a domestic dog. It is just +possible that this was the rare Abyssinian _Canis simensis_, Rüpp., no +other animal appearing at all to agree with Mr. Johnston’s description. +Native name, _Nzudu_. + +[25.] SCIURUS ERYTHROPUS? + +On Kilima-njaro, between 3000 and 7000 feet. + +[26.] XERUS, sp. + +Taveita forest. + +[27.] GRAPHIURUS CAPENSIS. + +Kilima-njaro, 6000 feet. Nocturnal habits. _Vide_ illustration, p. 392. + +[28.] MUS, sp.? + +A small black rat infesting native houses. + +[29.] AULACODUS SWINDERNIANUS? + +Reported by natives near Taveita. Native name, _Mbuku_. + +[30.] HYSTRIX CRISTATA. + +Very common in plains. + +[31.] LEPUS CAPENSIS. + +Killed near Taveita in plains. + +32. HYRAX BRUCEI, Gray (?). + +_a_, _b_. ♂︎ and ♀︎, 10,000 feet, on the south side of the mountain, 26th +October. + +Native name in Ki-čaga, _Kimburu_. + +Fairly common in the mountain-forests, where they live entirely in the +trees, and not among the rocks. They do not descend below about 7000 +feet and range up to 11,000 feet. These two specimens were brought alive +to Mr. Johnston; but the female, after giving birth to three young, died +almost at once, and the male, refusing to eat, also died in three or +four days. + +The specimens agree exactly, so far as can be made out from skins only, +with the type of Gray’s _H. irrorata_ (Ann. Mag. N. H. 1869, p. 242), a +species, however, which Mr. Blanford (Geol. Zool. Abyss. p. 252, 1870) +has shown to be probably not specifically separable from the same +author’s _H. Brucei_. Mr. Blanford obtained his Abyssinian conies at +elevations varying from 2000 to 8000 feet, and it was only to be +expected that specimens inhabiting a locality so much further south as +Kilima-njaro should have been found ranging as high as 11,000 feet above +the sea. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 73.—_Graphiurus Capensis._ (_a_) foot. (_b_) hand. +] + +[33.] ELEPHAS AFRICANUS, L. + +Mr. Johnston states that he himself saw and shot at elephants at an +altitude of no less than 13,000 feet. + +34. RHINOCEROS BICORNIS, L. + +_a_, _b_, _c_. Horns; Taveita, 2300 feet, end of October. + +Very common on the elevated plains at the base of Kilima-njaro, but not +ascending the mountain itself. Is not found in the true forest, but only +in the bush. + +These horns were brought in to Mr. Johnston by the A-kamba people, who +obtain them by killing the animals with poisoned arrows. + +35. EQUUS BURCHELLI, _var_. CHAPMANI. Thomas. + +_a._ Taveita, 2300 feet, 25th August. + +Very common, in herds of about twenty, on the open plains round the +mountain, never ascending above about 2400 feet. + +This specimen, like all those I have seen or heard of from localities on +or north of the Zambezi, belongs to the so-called _Equus Chapmani_, +Layard,[45] in which the dark stripes extend on the limbs right down to +the hoof. + +That this form, however, cannot be distinguished specifically from the +true _E. Burchelli_ is sufficiently proved by the following sentence, +extracted from Mr. T. E. Buckley’s useful paper on the distribution of +South African mammals:[46]—“Out of five of these animals shot in one +herd, there were individuals showing every variation of colour and +marking, from the yellow and chocolate stripes to the pure black and +white, the stripes in some ceasing above the hock, and in others being +continued distinctly down to the hoof.” On the whole, the somewhat ugly +trinomial “_Equus Burchelli Chapmani_” seems to express fairly correctly +the degree of distinctness to which this northern race has attained. + +I am told by Mr. Thomson also that throughout his travels in Eastern +Equatorial Africa he has never seen any but this leg-striped race of +Burchell’s zebra. + +[36.] HIPPOPOTAMUS AMPHIBIUS. + +Common in Lake ǰipé. + +[37.] PHACOCHŒRUS, sp. + +Wart-hogs are found on Kilima-njaro up to an elevation of 8000 feet. + +[38.] BUBALUS CAFFER, Sparrm. (?). + +According to Mr. Johnston, buffaloes occur commonly in the forests up to +14,000 feet. Whether these are _B. caffer_ or _B. æquinoctialis_, Blyth +(_B. centralis_, Gray), is doubtful, but a magnificent pair of horns +brought by Mr. Thomson from the same region belong undoubtedly to _B. +caffer_; and I therefore provisionally refer those seen by Mr. Johnston +to the same species. + +[39.] GIRAFFA CAMELOPARDALIS. + +Very abundant near Taveita, and along Ruvu valley. For native name, see +Vocabulary of Ki-čaga, &c. + +[40.] OREAS CANNA. + +The eland is everywhere most abundant in the plains. + +[41.] STREPSICEROS KUDU, Gray. + +Mr. Johnston states that the kudu ranges up to no less than 14,000 feet, +at which height it is by no means rare.[47] + +[42.] TRAGELAPHUS SYLVATICUS. + +Common in plains, especially near Taveita. + +[43.] ORYX BEISA? + +A species of _Oryx_, apparently _O. beisa_ seen at Nguruṅgani. + +[44.] HIPPOTRAGUS NIGER. + +Frequently seen in vicinity of Taveita. + +[45.] HIPPOTRAGUS EQUINUS. + +♀︎ shot near Taveita. _Vide_ illustration, Chapter X. + +[46.] ALCELAPHUS COKEI. + +Most parts of the plains. _Vide_ Chapter IV. + +[47.] CONNOCHŒTES GNU. + +Common in plains. + +[48.] ÆPYCEROS MELAMPUS. + +The beautiful pallah is everywhere common in the plains. Shot near +Taveita. _Vide_ illustration, Chapter X. + +[49.] GAZELLA GRANTI? + +A Taita hunter showed the author a pair of horns which he had procured +from the scene of a lion’s repast near Taveita, which seemed to belong +to this graceful antelope. + +[50.] CERVICAPRA BOHOR. + +Common in plains, and apparently inhabiting mountains up to 10,000 feet. + +[51.] NEOTRAGUS KIRKI? + +_Vide_ illustration, _ante_. + +This _Neotragus_ here illustrated was killed in Kilima-njaro at an +altitude of over 11,000 feet. It apparently ranges up to 14,000 feet +altitude in the dry season. + +[52.] CEPHALOPUS MERGENS. + +Met with in the grassy plains and near rivers. + +[53.] ORYCTEROPUS ÆTHIOPICUS. + +Common in the plains. + + + + + CHAPTER XIX. + ANTHROPOLOGY. + + +The races of man which I am about to enumerate at the commencement in +this chapter, extend over a region of Eastern Africa lying between the +first degree north of the Equator and five degrees to the south, and +bounded on the west by the Victoria Nyanza and the thirty-fourth degree +of east longitude, and on the east by the Indian Ocean. I wish, for the +sake of comparison, to review all the known races inhabiting this wide +stretch of country; but I shall more especially describe those dwelling +in the vicinity of Mount Kilima-njaro, with whom I have come into +personal contact during my recent stay in that district. + +The country which lies between the Victoria Nyanza and the coast, and is +circumscribed by the limits I have just cited, offers certain +peculiarities of conformation worthy of recapitulation, inasmuch as they +doubtless influence the races of men inhabiting those regions. Beyond +the fertile cultivated coast-belt, which is rarely more than ten miles +broad, begins the Nyika, a strange “wilderness,” as its name imports, +covered with harsh repellant vegetation, and almost unprovided with +running water. Here the rainfall is scanty, and the country bears a +parched look all the year round. This semi-desert, except where it is +broken by mountainous districts or intersected by great rivers, extends +uninterruptedly to within a short distance of the eastern shores of the +Victoria Nyanza—is indeed the prevailing type of scenery throughout +Africa, for the Dark Continent is on the whole less forested than any +other part of the tropics. But, as a happy contrast to this dreary +“veldt,” as it is called in the south, rise the magnificent mountain +systems of Usambara, Taita, Pare, Ugweno, Kilima-njaro, Kiulu; not to +mention other mighty ranges which Thomson has made known to us, and +which offer from his description the same characteristics as those I +have myself explored. Another break in the Nyika is made by the courses +of perennial rivers flowing to the Indian Ocean, such as the Ruvu or +Luvu, the Tzavo or Sabaki, the Tana, and a few minor streams of less +importance. The marked distinction between the outward aspects of the +well-watered forest country on the banks of rivers, lakes, or amid high +mountains, and the great rolling plains sparsely covered with stunted +trees or thorny scrub which I call the Nyika, is carried out further in +the races of man inhabiting either. The forest country on the hills or +along the rivers is occupied by resident agriculturists, belonging +principally to the Bantu family, ethnologically and linguistically, and +the forbidding wilderness in the plains is ranged over by the +semi-nomad, cattle-keeping Masai, who for the present must be regarded +as forming an independent group in African anthropology. + +The Masai, who occupy a large portion of this district, are divided into +many classes, tribes, and even independent nations. Some are settled +agriculturists (called by the coast people Wa-kwavi), others are still +fierce semi-nomads, spreading far and wide in their raids, though +retaining a certain tribal district in which they make a more or less +permanent abode. There are the Wa-kwavi of En-ǰemsi and the district of +Lake Baringo; of Laikipia; Kosova and Lumbwa, near Kavirondo. There are +also the Wa-kwavi of Aruša and Méru, near Kilima-njaro, and of the Ruvu +river, and Ṅguru in the south. The principal Masai clans are those of +Sigirari, Kisoṅgo, Sogonoi, Ṅgiri, and Laitokitok, in the vicinity of +Kilima-njaro, and of Matumbato, Kaputei, Kinaṅgop, Dogilani, Eṅ-guaso +Eṅ-gišu—(Cattle-river)—districts stretching to the north and west of the +great snow-mountain. Thomson[48] considers the Masai of Kilima-njaro to +be the purest in blood, and the most free from foreign admixture. + +To the extreme north of the district under review certain peoples have +been made known to us by Thomson’s explorations, such as the Nandi, Sūk, +and Kamasia tribes, which, according to this distinguished traveller’s +observations, would seem to be related in language and race with the +Masai, and help to fill up the blank between the southern members of +that family and their distant relatives, the Latuka and Bari, in the +valley of the White Nile. + +The principal Bantu tribes in this region are the Wa-tutwa, Wa-kara, and +Wa-rori on the south-eastern shores of the Victoria Nyanza, and the +Ba-samia and Ba-nyara to the north of Kavirondo; the Wa-kikuyu, Wa-mbe, +and Wa-δaičo to the south and west of Mount Kenia; the A-kamba, +inhabiting a large district known as Ukambani, between the rivers Amboni +and Tzavo; the Wa-pokomo on the Tana, which flows from the base of Kenia +to the Indian Ocean; the A-nyika, A-digo, Wa-bondei, and the Arabized +Wa-swahili on the coast between Lamu and the mouth of the Ruvu at +Pangani; the Wa-sambara and Wa-zeguha that inhabit Usambara and the +adjacent plains; the Wa-taita of the Taita mountains, midway between +Kilima-njaro and the coast; the Wa-pare and Wa-gweno, and, lastly, the +Wa-taveita, dwelling to the south-east of Kilima-njaro; the Wa-kahe of +the Upper Ruvu, and the Wa-čaga, who inhabit all but the northern flanks +of the great snow-mountain. + +The north-eastern portion of this district, which I term Eastern +Equatorial Africa, is mainly populated by the Galla and Somali peoples, +two races bitterly opposed to one another, although closely related in +blood and language. They form a remarkably distinct variety of man +apparently midway between the Negro on the one hand and the Arab on the +other. Their languages belong to the Ethiopic branch of the Hamitic +family according to some, and according to others constitute (with their +congeners) a separate and independent group, with certain undeniable +approaches to the Semitic and Hamitic tongues. + +The region over which the Galla race exists is a curiously extended one, +and yet often strangely restricted in width. They occupy, roughly +speaking, a long, narrow strip of Eastern Africa scarcely exceeding, at +the utmost, 200 miles in breadth, in fact more or less confined between +the thirty-seventh and fortieth degree of east longitude, but +nevertheless stretching in a southerly direction from the twelfth +parallel north of the Equator to the fourth parallel south, over a +distance of some 1100 miles. The Gallas have largely mingled with the +population of Abyssinia in North-Eastern Africa, and now they are every +year advancing farther and farther southward down the Zangian coast, +pushed on by their remorseless foes the Somali. At present the Gallas +are nearing Mombasa, and the Somali have begun to approach the banks of +the Tana river. Inland the southern boundary of the Galla extension is +at present the Sabaki river. On the west they border on Ukambani, the +country of the A-kamba, a Bantu race, and farther north they march with +the Masai district till about 4° or 5° N. of the Equator, when, as far +as we know, tribes of Nilotic negroes become their western neighbours. +Apparently, as time goes on, they will come betwixt hammer and anvil. +The Somali will push them farther and farther west, while the Masai will +force them to recoil eastwards to avoid his savage raids. Thus their +future is rather gloomy. Perhaps the best thing they can do is to +advance towards the Nile and Abyssinia. + +There is a curious colony of Nilotic negroes settled in the district of +Kavirondo on the eastern bank of the Victoria Nyanza, surrounded on all +sides by tribes of Bantu and Masai race. From what we know of their +language, philologically, at any rate, they are closely related to the +Šiluk people of the White Nile, and must represent a curious and +isolated colony of Nile negroes, the remnant of some former invasion now +surrounded on all sides by people of alien origin. They are only known +as yet from the descriptions of Swahili traders, and no European has yet +visited their country save the hasty coasting trip along their shores +which Stanley made when circumnavigating the Victoria Nyanza. + +Thomson has explored the country to the north of Kavirondo, and we learn +from him that there the people are Bantu, speaking apparently a language +closely related to Lu-ganda and Ki-nyoro. The nearest kinsmen, +therefore, of this Šiluk colony on the Victoria Nyanza, would seem to be +the Lur people who inhabit the north-western bank of the Albert Nyanza, +in 4° N. latitude. I think it very probable that, at any rate in +language, the Šiluk race is a distant relative of the Masai. The Bari +tongue, one of the most northern members of the Masai group, betrays in +its vocabulary a resemblance to certain languages of the Šiluk family +which can hardly be accidental or be accounted for by a theory of +loan-words. The same thing occurs also with the Diṅka, as Lepsius +pointed out in the preface to his “Nuba Grammar.”[49] + +Much yet remains to be ascertained about the relationships and +affinities of the reported dwarf races lying between Kilima-njaro and +the Nyanza, who may turn out possibly to resemble the Doko who inhabit a +portion of the almost unknown regions stretching between Abyssinia and +Masai-land. There are also curious helot tribes living in serfdom with +the Masai and the Galla, and speaking the languages of their masters, +though they are said to retain independent tongues of their own. Such +are the Wa-boni (also known as the Wa-sania, Wa-dahalo, Wa-ta, ǰuwano, +Alaṅgulo, &c.) who live in the vicinity of the Sabaki, Tana, and Ozi +rivers, also on various parts of the coast between Malindi and the River +ǰub. Then, also, there are the Endorobo (a Masai term, probably +En-dorobo, “the short, stumpy, inferior”), the Elkonono, a tribe of +blacksmiths. The Wa-boni (their very name is foreign, as may be seen by +the Swahili prefix Wa-) live among or near the southern Galla tribes, +and are often plundered by these tyrants. They are chiefly hunters, +practise no agriculture, and keep few domestic animals but dogs. In +physical type, judging by the few specimens I have seen in the vicinity +of Lamu, I should call them very unlike the Galla. They are sooty black, +undersized, and very negroid in their features, with woolly hair. M. +Greffulhe, a French merchant who had come in contact with them while +living and trading in their country, was kind enough to furnish me with +a few words of their language, which I insert in a foot-note.[50] The +reader will see that it is principally the same as Galla, except that in +the numerals it makes a slight approach to Masai which is not so evident +in the former tongue. + +The Endorobo and Elkonono whom I encountered to the north-east of +Kilima-njaro, were living near the Masai encampments as a helot race of +hunters and smiths. I was informed that they manufactured all the +spears, shields, and swords of the Masai. They were an ugly lot, very +different in appearance from the Masai, short in stature, black, and +with their legs often bowed and exhibiting a negro’s shin. I could not +elicit any words of their own language—if they possessed a peculiar +speech—and in my hearing they only spoke Masai. + +In the country to the west and north-west of Usambara, below the +mountains, are the remnants of a curious tribe of cattle-keepers, the +Wa-mbugu, as their Usambara neighbours call them. They are sometimes +known as the Ala. In appearance they are pleasing, with thin lips, +well-shaped noses, rather narrow eyes, and not unlike the Masai. Their +colour is a deep brown-black, and their hair does not apparently differ +from the frizzly _chevelure_ of the Bantu negro. The language they speak +(which has recently been brought to light by Archdeacon Farler of +Magila[51]), is a thorough enigma. While possessing Bantu prefixes, and +using them as they are used in Bantu languages, its word-roots, with one +or two exceptions, are utterly unlike anything we have yet met with. The +exceptions are a few terms taken from Masai, Ki-kamba, and Ki-sambara. + +On the coast, especially between Lamu and Pangani, ancient Arab +settlements were planted a thousand years ago, and though their pristine +glory has long since departed, some of the descendants of these early +colonists still remain, and together with the more recently arrived +’Omani and Hadramauti Arabs represent the Semitic family in this +congeries of nations. The intermixture of Arab and Bantu has formed the +curious mongrel race known as the Wa-swahili, or “people of the coast” +(from the Arabic Sahel, coast), and these enterprising traders have, +especially in late years, played a most important _rôle_, for good and +for bad, in the opening-up of Eastern and Western Africa. + +I will now proceed to describe more in detail such of those tribes and +races with whom I came into personal contact during my expedition to +Kilima-njaro. They fall naturally into two groups—the Masai and the +Bantu. + +Until I had safely reached Kilima-njaro with all my goods, I was not at +all anxious to encounter any of the former race, great as was the +interest I felt in their strange customs and the structure of their +euphonious language. Nevertheless, when Mandara sent to me one day the +message that a party of Masai had come to visit him and trade, and that +I might run over and interview them, I hastened to do so; and, tucking +my note-book under my arm, I made off to Moši, where the good-natured +chieftain, who was a fluent speaker in Masai, served as my interpreter, +and wrung from his solemn, stately guests some of the information which +I here impart. At that time Thomson had only just returned to Zanzibar +from his wonderful journey through Masai-land, and the result of his +observations had not been given to the world: so that the Masai were to +me nearly a new subject, and I was eager for enlightenment as to their +idiosyncrasies. To many of my readers who have perused Mr. Thomson’s +interesting work, much of what I here write may seem a twice-told tale, +but as a matter of fact it is rather the filling in the details of the +picture Mr. Thomson has so vividly and faithfully drawn. + +The Masai of whom I write belong mainly to the clans of Kisoṅgo,[52] +Sigirari, and Laitokitok. I have come in contact with them both on the +march and when I have been living at Taveita or Moši, whither their +women and elders would come to purchase honey and vegetables. I have +also traded with the Wa-kwavi (agricultural Masai) of Taveita, Aruša, +and the Ruvu valley. + +The distinction made between the Wa-kwavi and Masai has been already +commented on, and I would only refer to it again to repeat it is little +more than one based on mode of life. In speech these two divisions of +the race are identical, and the Wa-kwavi only differ from the Masai in +appearance in those districts where they have made slaves among the +neighbouring Bantu tribes and taken the females as concubines, a thing +which has occurred considerably—as I am informed by Swahili traders—in +those vague districts lying between Kilima-njaro and Unyamwezi. But as +the Masai of neighbouring districts do the same, with the same result, +namely, that the colour of the skin becomes black, and the features lose +all fineness of moulding—this negroid mingling is not to be taken as a +characteristic of the Wa-kwavi section. + +The previous history of the Masai people has been a common incident in +the unwritten race-struggles which surge among savage humanity. It has +been that of most rising and invading populations, like the Huns and +Turks and Goths of Europe. First, some tribe, or division of a tribe, +has been forced into war in self-defence, and has won a victory over its +assailants. Then it acquires a taste for fighting, and from being +persecuted becomes the persecutor. It spreads its conquests and ravages +far and wide, the fighting qualities descend from father to son in +increasing intensity. Soon, however, there are no weaker peoples left to +subdue or to harry. The land is a wilderness, cultivation has ceased. +The fighting tribe suffers from hunger. Then a section of them turns to +the soil and commences a rude agriculture. This pursuit in time +prospers, and the improved condition of the agriculturist attracts the +envy and greed of their nomadic brothers. A civil war ensues, which, no +matter what vicissitudes may happen, ends in the triumph of the tillers +of the soil, for to defend their crops and granaries they construct +fortifications and walled towns. Then with the victory of the settled +authorities comes an opening for commerce. The lives of traders are +safer among a hardworking colony of agriculturists than amid lawless +rovers and cut-throats. So, in time, civilization finds an opening into +what was once a _terra incognita_ on account of the fierceness of its +inhabitants. So it has been, and is, with the Masai. The last few +decades a perceptible alteration in their condition of life has begun to +appear. That section of them known as the Wa-kwavi has taken to a +settled mode of life. No longer do they rove about seeking whom they may +rob and slay, but they dwell within fixed limits, cultivate the soil, +and encourage traders to settle in their midst. A bitter civil war has +raged between them and their still nomadic cousins, at times a war of +mutual extermination, but somehow or other the settlements of the +Wa-kwavi continue to increase and prosper, while not a few of the tribes +of Masai who retain their pastoral habits and still scorn to till the +soil are being confronted by a disagreeable alternative that they +themselves can recognize. They must either turn their spears into spades +and their swords into reaping-hooks—or starve. The cattle disease which +has lately raged among them throughout the length and breadth of the +land, has played havoc with the herds on which their main sustenance +depends. As to renewing their live-stock by raids on the tribes of the +coast or the far interior, that will soon be—is already—an +impossibility. Where their victims were too weak to resist they have +simply given up cattle-keeping for fear of attracting the ruthless +plundering of the Masai, and now subsist meekly on vegetables and fowls; +where they were already strong, they have become stronger, either by +settled government or by occupying unassailable positions. Soon there +will be no cattle left to raid, and the Masai will range the wide +deserted plains in all their splendid insolent bravery and die of +inanition. The inhabitants of the walled cities or the lofty hills will +dwell secure from attack, and the wretched remnants of vanquished tribes +still lingering in unprotected haunts will not be worth robbing. Then +the proud Masai must turn to and wring from the soil that sustenance +which only comes as the reward of honest labour. A dear old warrior of +Kisoṅgo, with the manners of a well-bred Arab, and the physique of an +aged Hercules (supposing that hero to have recovered his attack of +blood-poisoning and to have attained the condition of a magnificent +ruin), said to me a little more than a year ago, “Ah, when you next +return to Taveita in twelve months’ time, you will find us all +Embarawuio (Wa-kwavi), like these people of Kikoro,[53] whom we used to +rob and kill when _I_ was a youth. And now, see! All our cattle are +dying, though we have sent them to the pastures of ǰipé, and I have to +come here to buy food from these Es-singa (slaves), who are fat and +strong, and lack not good things to eat.” The old gentleman had, in +fact, come with a troop of wives and many asses to buy grain and honey +and dried bananas. In time these more civilized Wa-kwavi will prevail in +numbers and power over the fierce pastoral Masai, and thus Eastern +Equatorial Africa will be opened up to safe and profitable trade. At the +very worst, however, the Masai are neither so dangerous nor so +bloodthirsty as the Soudanese Arabs or the fanatical Tuaregs of the +Sahara. If you are content to pay their tribute, you need not fight, and +if you _are_ forced to defend yourself, these people are powerless in +front of a stockade, as they have no guns, and never _throw_ their +spears, being only accustomed to a hand-to-hand fight. We may be +thankful that Mohammedanism has not yet reached them to turn them into +mad fanatics or faithless cut-throats like their neighbours to the north +and east. It is, indeed, a curious subject for reflection that this +powerful religion, which in a short time swept like an epidemic over all +Somali-land and the entire Soudan from Red Sea to Atlantic, should have +halted on the borders of Masai-land, powerless in its appeals. + +The physical appearance of the unregenerate robber Masai is splendid. It +is a treat to the anthropological student to gaze on such magnificent +examples of the fighting man. It is an example of one side of our +multiform nature pushed to an exclusive and supreme development. The +Masai warrior is the result of the development of Man into a beautiful +Animal. To call him God-like, as we do the Greek ideals, would be silly +and inappropriate—as much so as seeing divinity in a well-bred +race-horse or an Alderney cow. To compare him with the statues of Apollo +with which we are most of us familiar in foreign galleries or as plaster +casts in English palaces of entertainment, is unfair to the one and the +other. If you could find Apollo represented with huge-lobed ears, +fang-like teeth, high cheek-bones, and a woolly crop, not to mention +other peculiar and, to our, or perhaps I may say _your_ notions—for I am +personally without prejudices—ungraceful developments, then you might +aptly compare his ideal representation with the living Masai; or if you +could discover specimens of these people who possessed the fleshy +effeminate contours, the sexless countenance of vacuous beauty +attributed to the god of poetry, music, and prophecy, you might more +fittingly describe them as dark statues of Apollo. As it is, the +physical perfection of these East African beef-eating, bloodthirsty +warriors is of the prize-fighter’s or the rowing-man’s ideal, rather +than the æsthete’s. + +The full-grown Masai of pure blood generally attains six feet in height +by the age of seventeen, though at that time he is often spindly and +cumbersome, an ungraceful hobbledehoy. Three years, however, of an +exclusive diet of milk, blood, and half-raw beef-steaks, combined with a +rigorous training in warlike and athletic exercises, have developed him +into a sinewy, muscular man of admirable proportions, broad of chest, +with a smallish head, a graceful neck, and limbs whose muscles seem hard +as iron. There is no fat on his body. I cannot say that his hands and +feet are always well-shaped. Though the instep is high, the foot spreads +out rather broadly and squarely at the toes; the minor ones advancing +nearly in a line with the big toe. + +Their faces are somewhat Mongoloid in look, at first sight. The rather +narrow, slanting eyes, the prominent cheek-bones, and the pointed chin +suggest that impression. On the other hand, the nose is often +beautifully shaped, with high bridge and delicately-carved nostrils, +which obey sensitively the passing feelings of their owner, quivering +and dilating with pride and rage, or widening and relaxing with good +humour. Their heads are often singularly round and broad for Africans, +though at the same time I have not failed to see the most +dolichocephalic skulls among the true Masai. The hair is certainly +longer and less frizzly than among the true negroes, though at the same +time this may be only due to the careful and continual combing-out it +undergoes and its straightening with a thick paste of clay and fat. It +is, after all, a negro’s wool, and is not longer or more abundant, +certainly, than the regular Papuan crops of hair which the Bantu people +of the Upper Congo have been found to possess. + +The ears of the Masai are naturally large, and, inasmuch as big ears are +admired, this may be an inherited and perpetuated peculiarity; but, +apart from what Nature has done for the race, Art steps in and effects +greater changes still in the individual. When quite young the Masai +children drill holes through the lobes of their ears. Through these +small twigs are pushed, beginning at the size of lucifer-matches and +gradually increasing as the aperture is extended until a huge wedge of +ivory, four or five inches in diameter, can be passed easily through the +lobe of the ear, which is changed to a thin loop of skin drooping to the +shoulder. Sometimes a kind of wooden stretcher is employed, like a +cotton-reel with a groove at both ends, and this is inserted lengthwise, +to extend the ear. Usually, when it is considered sufficiently large, a +row of fine iron chains, made by the skilful Čaga forgers, will be hung +to the distended loop, or there may be a circular wooden or ivory ring +like Mandara’s, which is illustrated on page 107. Married people change +all these ornaments for discs of copper-wire, coiled round and round and +looking just like small Catherine-wheels in shape. These are hung on to +the ear, and it is _de rigueur_ to do so on entering the marriage state. + +The eyes, in these people, as already noted, are long and slanting. The +sclerotic is clearer and whiter than in the typical negro, though in +most of the men it becomes very bloodshot and enhances their fierce, +wicked look. The eyebrows are prominent and generally hairless—I think +the hairs are pulled out purposely with tweezers. Whether there is much +sign of beard or moustache I cannot say. The men I have seen are always +rigidly smooth-faced. They use razors (El-morūnya) of iron, made by the +El-konono, a helot tribe of blacksmiths. I fancy the place of +shaving-soap is taken by a thin layer of wet clay. “To shave,”—_barn_—, +also means “to scrape,” in their language. I do not think, however, +there is much growth of beard in these people, or that they need to +shave very frequently. + +The shape and size of the mouth varies exceedingly in the Masai, +doubtless according to the greater or less purity of the race. This +feature is always large, but frequently the lips are thin, and the upper +one rather _in_verted than _e_verted. The teeth are generally very ugly. +They are often carious, but even when sound they project at an angle +from the purple-red, discoloured gum, and appear like isolated fangs. +The wide space which is often seen between the two middle incisors of +the upper jaw is doubtless due to artificial filing, and is supposed to +aid them in the projecting of their saliva, which is such an important +ceremony with these people.[54] Instances of marked prognathism I have +never seen among the Masai. + +As regards their limbs, I have generally noticed that the forearm is +long, as it often is in Africans, and that the tip of the middle finger +nearly reaches the knee when the arm is dropped by the side. The forearm +is generally thin and rather straight all the way down, but although the +muscles do not much project they are hard as iron. These few lines of +vague description are of little use to anthropologists, and I regret +very much that I have not a series of body-measurements to give you, but +such a thing was impossible with the Masai. They angrily rejected the +proposal when I advanced with my measuring-tape. + +The colour of their skin is a dull chocolate-brown, ordinarily, varying +between the Nos. 28 and 42 of Broca’s colour types. Occasionally among +the women lighter shades may be seen, but this is generally in the +vicinity of the Wa-gogo people, who are very light-complexioned negroes. +Some Masai—more especially Wa-kwavi—are a dull black, but this tone +always accompanies coarse features and indicates a mixture with captives +from the black tribes east, south, and west. Hair on the body seems +tolerably abundant in the usual parts, if allowed to grow—at least, so I +am informed—but it is always rigorously pulled out, and all the Masai I +ever saw were carefully depilated. + +Circumcision is generally performed on the male at the age of fourteen, +as far as I can ascertain—that is to say, it is done as one of the +preparatory rites that celebrate the attainment of manhood. The manner +of operation and the result are, I believe, quite peculiar to the +Masai.[55] + +After birth, the Masai baby (who is generally quite yellow when first +born), is carried in a roll of leather attached to its mother’s +shoulders. Female infants are considered a disappointment, and are often +termed contemptuously “pans,” or “empty, hollow vessels” (E-modi). The +more boys a wife bears, the more she is esteemed. Up to the age of three +both sexes alike are term “Eṅ-gera” or “children”—a word meaning “the +sheep sort,” or “the little sheep.” Then the males are distinguished as +“Eṅ-aiok” (sing. Eṅ-aion), and later as “El-aiok,” while the girls +continue to be called Eṅ-gera until they attain puberty, when they are +known as En-doye (sing. En-dito). Young men after circumcision, when +they leave the family home and consort with the warriors, are called +“El-barnodi,” from the roots _barn_, to shave, and _odi_, or _godi_, a +calabash. It means that they shave or scrape the milk-calabashes (which +are never cleaned with water, but by scraping and rubbing with +wood-ashes) for the young warriors, and make themselves otherwise +generally useful. At about the age of seventeen they become +fighting-men, and join the army, which includes practically the entire +manhood of the nation between the ages of seventeen and twenty-four. The +young men are known as El-moran. Their dress is picturesque but scanty. +In ordinary, everyday life they wear nothing, and walk about in all +their splendid, shameless nudity; or if they wish to make a little +toilet, or are about to leave the camp, they sling a leathern cape about +the shoulders or over one shoulder, tie a narrow leather girdle round +the waist, in which to stick a knife or wooden club, and don their +leather sandals, of which, by-the-bye, they are continually cutting out +fresh pairs from new ox-hides, this being almost the only form of work +they do not consider menial. When going to war, however, these simple +adornments above described are considerably added to. The leather cape +is removed, and its place is taken—firstly, by a long piece of cloth, +sewn down the middle with a coloured stripe; and secondly, by a thick +carapace made of kite’s feathers, or, as in my sketch, by a cape made of +the skins of the Colobus monkey. A cap of Colobus skin may also be worn +on the head, or a striking head-dress made of ostrich feathers, and +shaped roughly like an ellipse. The leather cape which ordinarily is +worn round the shoulders will now be twisted round the waist like a +belt, and in the folds of this are secured the knobkerry (Ol-oikuma) and +the Ol-alem or sword. Sometimes a ring of goat-skin, with the fur +outside, or a strip of Colobus skin, will be worn round the ankles, and +then, with a long-bladed spear and shield four feet high, the equipment +of a Masai warrior is complete. + +The hair of the men is combed out into long frizzles, artificially +lengthened with strips of bark, and stiffened with clay and fat. +Sometimes it is worn in long locks like rats’-tails, or more frequently +it is drawn into a couple of pig-tails both over the forehead and at the +nape of the neck. The women usually shave their heads, wholly or in +part, and bestow little care on that part of their person. On the other +hand, they are much more extensively clothed than the men, being +enwrapped generally from head to feet in ample garments of dressed +leather. Their necks, wrists, and ankles are covered with massive coils +of iron or copper wire, and beads are largely used to ornament the +fringe of their clothing. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 74—A Masai Warrior. +] + +The Masai men rarely marry until they are over twenty-five, nor the +women until twenty. But both sexes, _avant de se ranger_, lead a very +dissolute life before marriage, the young warriors and unmarried girls +living together in free love. The married Masai is a changed being. From +a lustful, bloodthirsty fiend he becomes a staid, courteous, and +reasonable man, anxious to obtain and impart information, and as +desirous of healing a breach and preventing bloodshed as before he loved +to foment a quarrel and take part in a massacre. Whilst still an +unmarried man and a warrior he abjures all vegetable food, and strictly +confines himself to a diet of milk and meat. Moreover, he must not mix +these two things, but, before changing from one to another, must take a +powerful purgative, so that, for instance, if he has been living on +milk, and wishes to eat or drink blood, he must thoroughly clear his +system before changing from one to the other. But after marriage, when +he is no longer looked upon as a fighting-man, his diet is unrestricted. +He now seeks to obtain vegetable food from the humble races of +cultivators who dwell in the vicinity of his settlement, or eagerly +purchases honey with tusks of ivory. + +Marriage is little more than a question of purchase, and the amount of +cows to be paid varies with the comparative wealth of the bridegroom and +the bride’s father. This question also regulates the number of wives. +They seldom, however, espouse less than two. Married people are +generally called “El-kieko,” and the husband is termed “El-moruo.” + +When little children die, they are often buried within the village +enclosure, or even beneath the floor of the mother’s dwelling. Grown-up +persons are generally placed under a tree in a sitting posture with the +knees touching the chin. A calabash supposed to contain milk, but +generally empty, is placed by the side. A slight excavation in the +ground is either chosen or made, in which to put the body. Stones are +then heaped around it and over it, and grass is thrown on the top, so +that a kind of cairn is generally formed. Nevertheless, the hyenas +scarcely ever fail to pull down this mound and drag out the corpse, +which is then devoured without any interposition on the part of the +surviving relatives. When any person dies within an inhabited village, +the settlement has to be purified by the medicine-man with a liquor made +from the half-digested food (_E-moǰok_) in the stomach of an ox, which +is killed for the occasion. After death the name of a deceased person is +never mentioned, lest his spirit should obey the call and return. +Notwithstanding this impression, these people have almost no fear of or +belief in ghosts or demons, and mock at the Bantu people in their +vicinity for their elaborate propitiation of the shades. + +The Masai worship a vague Supreme Being, whom they call “Eṅ-gai,” a +feminine word also meaning the “heavens” and “rain.” Eṅ-gai is sometimes +supposed to dwell on the summit of Kilima-njaro, which is therefore +called “Eṅgaǰi-Eṅgai” or the House of God. This Great Spirit with whom +rain and grass[56] are peculiarly associated—as being the chief sign and +result of his beneficence—is propitiated with loud singing and dancing +(_Isīlil_). They also sacrifice sheep, and tie all the bloody remains in +the skin and leave it on isolated mountains, or at a place where many +paths converge. The Masai mention another and weaker divinity, whom they +also designate by a female appellation—“En-naiterkob.” En-naiterkob +seems to be a kind of earth-spirit (Eṅ-kob, the earth, the world), in +contradistinction to Eṅ-gai, the heavens, the over-arching sky. The +Masai often call on Naiterkob to mediate with Eṅ-gai and obtain the +granting of their prayers for rain, success in war, or many male +children. They regard with peculiar veneration the snowy summits of both +Kilima-njaro (Ol-doinyo oibor, the white mountain) and Kenia +(En-durkenia, or Ol-doinyo oigeri, the spotted mountain), imagining that +these are at once the chosen residence of Naiterkob and the places on +which Eṅ-gai reposes, and that they are therefore the most fitting sites +for mediation with the Most High. + +The political constitution of the Masai tribes is mainly patriarchal, +but the rule is sometimes a dual one. The father of the tribe, the +supreme chief, is generally a man chosen for his wealth, his wisdom, or +his martial renown; or it may be that he is a mighty medicine-man +skilled in the arts of divination and prophecy, and able to compound +powerful drugs from the roots and bark of certain trees. If the former +he is called Ol-beiǰani, and holds his place as long as he can keep it, +but if his power is sacerdotal—if he is an Ôl-eibon, then he is probably +supreme till death. The office is not hereditary. Sometimes the Beiǰani +and the Eibon are found ruling side by side—the temporal and spiritual +chieftains. In other cases it may be the Eibon who wields exclusive +power or unites the temporal and spiritual functions in his own person. +The Wa-kwavi states are usually little republics ruled by an oligarchy +of all the wealthier or more powerful elders. Here the Eibon, or +medicine-man, plays a less important part. + +The Masai are very respectful in disposition to their elders, and the +younger members of the community will seldom sit in the presence of the +old men. At the same time they exhibit little grief at the death of +their comrades, whether in battle or in village squabbles. As to +remorse, that outcome of civilization does not exist among them. A Masai +will murder his friend or neighbour either in a free fight over a herd +of captured cattle, or in pursuance of private revenge, and live not a +whit the less merrily afterwards. Nevertheless, while it is thought an +honourable distinction to kill a fellow-citizen in fair fight, to murder +any one secretly or by surprise is punished by a heavy fine. This is for +the good of the community, not because it is thought wicked. The Masai, +in fact, have scarcely any conceptions of good and bad like those of +Europeans. _Torono_, which we translated “bad,” really means “broken, +useless, inferior, spoilt;” _Maṅgadi_ is not “wicked,” but “cruel;” +_Sidai_ is not “good,” but “loose-mannered, easy-going, wanton, +unchaste.” Certain actions are recognized as injurious to the community +and the commonwealth, and as such they are punished and repressed; but +they do not, as do many races of men, connect different good or bad +deeds with the pleasure or displeasure of the gods. Were the Masai given +to enunciating moral maxims they would probably say, “To be good is to +be silly,” and “Be cunning and you will prosper;” “Happy is the man who +has smashed many skulls and stolen many cows: his children shall honour +him,” and so on. + +The agricultural Wa-kwavi build their houses generally after the method +of the Bantu or other foreign races in whose vicinity they settle; +besides copying them in many other particulars. The semi-nomad Masai do +not make much pretence at architecture. As they roam about over certain +districts, they often inhabit different portions at different times of +the year. In the rainy season they may take to the open plains where the +grazing is now good for the cattle, but in the winter or rainless period +they will change to hilly ground where the mists create perennial +verdure, or to the vicinity of great lakes and rivers for the same +reason. Their quickly-constructed towns or villages, of which the women +are generally the architects and builders, consist of a huge circle of +low mud huts, surrounded by a thorn fence. In the middle of this +enclosure the cattle are kept at night. Their huts are generally built +as follows: first making a rough framework of pliant boughs, which are +bent over and stuck in the ground at both ends, they plaster on this a +mixture of mud and ox-dung, and, for further resistance to heavy rain, +hides are thrown over the top, outside. The height of the dwellings +barely exceeds four feet. There is a low, porch-like door. The only +attempt at furniture is a hide laid across a row of sticks to serve as a +couch at night. + +The length of the house may be from nine to ten feet, and the breadth +five. The top is generally rounded from the nature of the framework. +They often, especially when built in a row, look like little more than +inhabited mud walls. + +The principal utensils of the Masai are calabashes, made from gourds and +the huge fruit of the baobab-tree, leather bags, pots and spoons +hollowed out of soft wood, or made of clay for cooking purposes. +Snuff-boxes and pipe-bowls are made from the hard shells of certain +fruits, or from ivory or rhinoceros horn. Their spears, knives, razors, +and all metal instruments are made by the curious El-konono tribe, who +dwell among them as vassals and serfs. Some of the poor Masai make a +subsistence by neatly sewing leathern garments and disposing of them to +women or old men in exchange for food. + +The domestic animals of the Masai are oxen, goats, sheep, donkeys, and +dogs. Fowls they despise and do not keep. Their cattle absorb all their +thoughts. For their possession and retention wars are waged. The gift of +an ox is a sign of solemn peacemaking, and is generally accompanied by +much spitting right and left of the men who lead it. Nearly all their +rites and superstitions are connected with cattle. They believe that +they are the lawful heritage of the Masai race, whose primal ancestor +received from Naiterkob the power to tame the wild oxen of the woods; +and under this impression they “lift” the cattle of all weaker nations, +maintaining that they have no right to their possession. Nevertheless, +they probably got their kine from their northern home, somewhere on the +White Nile, for the generic word they use for cow and cattle is +identical with that of the Bari people round Gondokoro, and related to +similar terms in the Šiluk and Diṅka tongues (_vide_ Vocabulary). The +only type of ox which I have seen in their possession is that humped +Asiatic breed (the zebu), so common in Tropical Africa, and which +probably owes its introduction to the ancient Egyptians. But I am +informed that farther in the interior to the eastward of Kilima-njaro, +there is another breed of cattle in the possession of these people—a +breed like the oxen of the Cape and South-west Africa, with large +bodies, no hump, and immense widespread horns. On the Kunene river +(South-west Africa, latitude 17° S.) I have met with the two breeds side +by side—the big, long-horned and the small, humped cattle. In Angola +there is a mingling of the two. On the Gold Coast and the Oil rivers I +have only seen the small, humped variety, though I am told farther +inland the other appears. Whence this long-horned, straight-backed, +large-sized ox (which is normally a dun-brown) came from, I am at a loss +to say. Of course it was not African in its origin, as in Africa there +is not, nor, as far as we know, has there been, a wild ox of the genus +Bos. Yet this last breed—which much resembles the Hungarian and South +European (Spanish) cattle, was evidently an early introduction into +Africa, for in many districts it appears to have preceded the humped +kind. It was the only breed the Hottentots possessed. It seems to be +very much kept by the populous nations in the interior of South Central +Africa, between the Congo and Zambezi. + +The Masai have a word for the pig which is also common to their distant +relatives on the Nile (_vide_ Vocabulary), but they do not keep it in a +domestic condition. The term for pig is used to indicate the wild +warthog (_Phacochœrus_). + +Their goats are those of East Africa generally, a small, plump variety. +They possess two breeds of sheep, only one of which I have seen. This is +the hairy, fat-tailed sheep, with short horns. The other I judge from +report to resemble the tall, big-horned, chest-maned, domestic sheep of +Central and Western Africa (_vide_ illustration, p. 428 of my book, “The +River Congo”). The common fat-tailed sheep is called Eṅ-gera, and the +long-horned kind El-mērekeš, or El-kirieš. + +The Masai donkeys are generally splendid beasts, and are simply and +solely the wild Ethiopian ass (_Equus hœmiopus_) domesticated. Where +they have been free from mixture with coast breeds, they are, as I saw +them, literally undistinguishable in size, colour, and markings from the +wild ass of Abyssinia and North-east Africa. They have none of the +stripes on the legs which appear in the wild ass of Somali-land. The +Masai must have got them from the far north. Their word for ass agrees +with that in the Latuka language spoken in 5° north latitude, to the +east of the Nile (_vide_ Vocabulary). + +The Masai are much attached to their dogs. Generally each child is +followed about by one, its own exclusive pet. They are—those that I have +seen—disappointing mongrels, all colours, and of no marked breed. +Generally the ears are erect and pointed. The colour may be fawn, fawn +and white, black and tan, all black, or black, tan, and white. They are +about the size of large terriers. They never bark. + +The marabou storks (_Leptoptilus_), vultures, and hyenas (_H. crocuta_) +which frequent the Masai encampments are strangely tame, and are +protected for the useful scavenging they perform. Strangers cause grave +offence by killing them. The spotted hyena is often called by the Masai +“Ol-uwaru onyoǰine”, the limping leopard. The striped hyena, which is +rarer and shyer, and keeps more to the open, is called “Otonu.” + +Whenever the warrior Masai are on a journey they are positively +accompanied by flights of vultures and a few marabou storks. Wherever +they stop to slaughter cattle, these scavengers descend and feast on the +offal till they are so gorged that you may see a Masai pushing them away +with his foot. The hyenas that haunt the vicinity of their burial-places +root up and devour the dead soon after their relatives have laid them in +the soil, without in any way being checked or molested. + +The Masai rarely kill or eat any of the game around them—zebras, +giraffes, buffaloes, and antelopes, so that their country from long +preserving has become a hunter’s paradise. Unfortunately, the Masai are +incensed at any guns being fired in their vicinity, lest the report +should stampede their cattle; consequently a sportsman would often find +himself cruelly hampered. + +The ivory in which these people trade is secured for them by the helot +tribes of hunters—En-dorobo, El-mau, and others, who actively pursue the +elephants with spears and poisoned lances. The Wa-kwavi, who are +agricultural Masai, cultivate, of course, most of the East African +vegetables—sugar-cane, maize, bananas, millet, tobacco, sweet potatoes, +and the collocasia root. The names of all these things are derived from +Bantu languages, and are not related to terms employed by the other +members of the Masai family in the Nile basin. Tobacco is not smoked by +the Masai, but mixed with natron (_magad_) and chewed. It is also +powdered and taken as snuff most extensively. Tobacco is always called +by a corruption of the coast name, which again is only a variant of +“tobacco.” It is wonderful, considering how recent is the introduction, +that tobacco has so quickly spread among these wild people that they +already forget its foreign origin. + +The Masai are very fond of honey, which they not only purchase from +their agricultural, bee-keeping neighbours, but also obtain from the +stores of wild bees in warthog or ant-bear burrows. To these they are +often guided by the honey-bird (_Indicator_), a creature they naturally +regard with kindness. From the honey, mixed with water, they make an +intoxicating mead called “ol-marūa.” This and sour milk are their chief +beverages. Milk is regarded as a sacred fluid. They will never give or +sell it to strangers of other nations, and were it not that the women +are less rigid in their views than the men, and that they may +occasionally be bribed with beads to bring milk clandestinely to the +strangers, this grateful fluid would otherwise be unprocurable in +Masai-land. Moreover, although they will readily give or sell castrated +bullocks, they will never willingly part with a cow. The most heinous +act a stranger can commit in their land is to _boil_ milk. This, they +think, will so enrage the cows that they will at once run dry. Any one +caught doing so can only atone for the sin with a fearfully heavy fine, +or, failing that, the insult to the holy cattle will be wiped out in his +blood. Talking of blood, this is one of the Masai warrior’s chief and +favourite forms of nutriment. The ox is generally stunned with a blow on +the back of the head, and then a vein is opened in the throat. To this +the Masai applies his lips, and sucks and sucks until he can hold no +more or until his impatient comrades tear him from the spurting vein. +Doubtless the salts in the warm blood supply a need in his diet, for in +no other form does salt mix with his food, the warriors being compelled +to refrain from the salted tobacco their elders so enjoy. + +Commerce and the cattle disease will do much to open up Masai-land, +which is the finest country in Africa. The one will soften and the other +will tame these fierce people. The increasing love of trade goods impels +them to encourage the arrival of coast caravans, and the loss of their +cattle, as before explained, will force them to till the soil. Then, as +my old Masai friend prophesied, they will all become Wa-kwavi, and if +the original nomad Masai be a fierce, intractable, insolent bully, he no +sooner becomes a settled agriculturist than he changes into the nicest, +quietest, honestest, mildest inhabitant in Africa. Therefore, although +they may fail to see it, the greatest boon Eṅ-gai can confer upon them +is to sweep their cattle off the land. + +Almost exclusively the Masai inhabit the plains round the Kilima-njaro +district, while the uplands still retain the older population of the +country. This consists of people belonging linguistically and racially +to the great Bantu family, which occupies nearly all Africa south of the +Equator. From a linguistic point of view the Bantu are absolutely +homogeneous—there is no mistaking a Bantu tongue for a member of any +other family. But ethnologically the distinction is much disputed. Some +good authorities maintain that the Bantu races (Kaffirs, Congo, Swahili +people, and the inhabitants of the great lakes) do not agree amongst +themselves in any particular type, nor differ markedly from other +negroes on the Nile or the west coast. This is a question of such +intricacy, and needing so much careful argument, that I am not prepared +to enter into it here, nor am I ready or anxious to prove the racial +homogeneity of the Bantu-speaking people. While I recognize that there +is certainly a great physical similarity between the Ovampo, Ovaherero +(Damaras), the inhabitants of the Upper Congo, the Ba-ganda of the +Victoria Nyanza, and the Zulus, I admit at the same time that there are +many other tribes and races speaking Bantu languages who differ markedly +from the fine types above cited. I have seen natives from the borders of +Lake Nyassa, from the Lower Congo, from East Central Africa, who +presented all the most hideous and exaggerated features of the Gold +Coast negro, although the yellow faces in some of them might suggest an +ancient strain of Hottentot or Bushman. Of course the Bantu is a +negro—so is the Masai, the Wolof, the Mandiṅgo, or the pale-faced Berta +of Abyssinia; so also, in my opinion, are the Hottentots and Bushmen. +All African races with frizzly hair I would call negroes, whether their +noses varied (as they do in the same tribe) from the patulous, wide +nostrilled, bridgeless form of the Bushman to the fine, aquiline, +delicately-shaped organ which you encounter among the Masai or the +Wolof. There is no feature constant like the hair. You may meet some +tribes of Bushmen who are dwarfs, and others (such as those found near +the Kunéné and Upper Zambezi) who attain the average size. The colour of +all negroes may vary in the same district from jet-black to +tawny-yellow, but still their hair, though it may be long or short, is +frizzly. Nevertheless, among the negro races there are wide differences +that separate them into certain fairly well marked groups, the members +of which evince more affinity for one another than for other sections of +the sub-species or variety. Thus the low types of Masai resemble, not +the Bantu, but the negro races of the Nile—the Šiluk-Diṅka people—from +whom they perhaps originally sprang. The finest physical type of the +Bantu, whether he be found in Damara-land, on the Victoria Nyanza, or in +Natal, offers much the same characteristics in common, and does not at +all resemble the Masai, who may be the highest development of the Nile +negro, or the Wolof, who is among the handsomest samples of the races of +Northern Guinea. Therefore, inasmuch as the mountaineers of the +Kilima-njaro district and elsewhere, who speak languages of the Bantu +family, differ from the Masai in speech and in physical features, and +resemble rather in both these points the majority of the inhabitants of +the southern half of Africa (who also belong linguistically to the same +group), and further, as I cannot call one negro and the other negroid +(since both are negro), I prefer to use the term Bantu in a physical as +well as in a linguistic sense, and to speak of the Bantu peoples in +contradistinction to the Masai. The principal Bantu tribes in the +district I am describing are the Wa-taveita on the River Lumi, at the +base of Kilima-njaro, the Wa-čaga, who, under many chieftains and +political divisions, inhabit the great mountain, the Wa-gweno and +Wa-kahe to the south, and the A-kamba and Wa-taita to the north-east and +east. When I started for Kilima-njaro from Mombasa I encountered no +inhabitants until we reached the hills of Maungu, on the borders of +Taita. Here some people came and sold us honey and spoke to us in the +Ki-taita dialect. At Ndara and Bura we subsequently saw more of the +Wa-taita, and many of them afterwards emigrated to Taveita and Čaga, and +even entered my service as hunters and scouts, so that I was enabled to +see a good deal of them from first to last, and take down vocabularies +of their dialect. + +In outward appearance the Wa-taita are unprepossessing. They are about +the medium height, the men varying generally from five feet three inches +to five feet nine inches, and the women from four feet eleven inches to +five feet four inches. They have fairly good figures, the limbs, +especially the legs, are well formed, but the men are somewhat +effeminate and slight-looking. In facial aspect there is much variation. +While many have little pug noses with no perceptible bridge, and a +much-rounded, projecting forehead, others exhibit an almost Red Indian +physiognomy, with aquiline noses, high cheek-bones, and retreating +foreheads. The teeth are artificially filed and sharp pointed, but are +naturally set somewhat wide apart in the jaw. The whites of the eyes are +much clouded. The ears are so tortured and misshapen by prevailing +fashion, that it is hard to guess their original shape. The body is +disposed to be hairy, but is carefully depilated all over, even to the +plucking out of eyebrows, eyelashes, beard and moustache. The colour of +the skin is generally dull, sooty-black, but this is often disguised by +the coating of soot or red earth and fat or castor-oil, which is rubbed +over the skin. The hair is generally shaved all round the head, and only +allowed to grow on the occiput. Here it is much cultivated and pulled +out into long strings, which are stiffened with grease and threaded with +beads. Beads, indeed, are the adoration of the Wa-taita. The women wear +massive collars of them, sometimes six inches broad and three inches +deep, which are placed round the neck, and sometimes so lift up the chin +as to compel the wearer to keep the head well thrown back. Several +hundred strings of beads are bound round the waist, smaller bands cross +and recross the back and breasts, they are banded round the shaven part +of the head, they hang in scattered strings from the temple downwards, +they decorate the tiny _tablier_ or leather apron which is worn for +purposes of decency, and the borders of the two-tailed leathern garment +which hangs on the back and legs are also edged with beads of various +colours. In both sexes the lobes of the ears are pierced, and the hole +is widened until the distended flap of skin nearly reaches the shoulder. +When this result has been attained, many rings of beads are inserted, +and continue to weigh down the distorted ear, the outer auricle of which +is further pierced and hung with beads of a larger kind. This hanging +the ears with beads is peculiar to the Wa-taita, the other mountain +races in the vicinity employing for the like purpose fine iron chains, +bolts of wood, or rings of wood or ivory. There are but slight traces of +religion among them. They are afraid of spirits, who are supposed to +dwell in large forest trees, and perhaps for the reason that their dead +are always buried in the forest. The country is but slightly wooded, but +on the hill-tops clumps of high trees are religiously conserved. The +baobabs among these people, as among other East African races, are +looked upon as particularly the abode of spirits. The word for God in +their language is _Mulungu_, but I more than suspect it is a borrowed +term from the coast tribes, and that _Eruwa_, “sun,” is their true +conception of an over-ruling deity. Among the Wa-pare, the Wa-gweno, the +Wa-taveita, and the Wa-čaga the word for “sun” and “God” is identical. +_Mulungu_ is in use among the A-nika and the A-kamba, and _Muūngu_ and +_Mungo_ among the Wa-swahili and the Wa-pokomo. All these variants +descend from an original form, _Mu-n-kulu-n-kulu_, which is most closely +preserved in the modern Zulu _U-nkulunkulu_. The adjective _-kulu_ in +nearly all Bantu tongues has the meaning of “great” or “old.” To this +was added the _n_ prefix, then the personal prefix _mu_, so that finally +the combination meant the “old, old one,” for great and old in this +sense are almost synonymous, and Bleek conjectures the term to have been +a relic of ancestor worship, or the deification of some tribe-founder. + +One other incident may be mentioned about the Wa-taita before I leave +them. Their marriages are arranged first by purchase, the intended +husband paying the father of the girl the three or more cows fixed as +the price. When these preliminaries are settled the girl runs away and +affects to hide. She is sought out by the bridegroom and three or four +of his friends. When she is found, the men seize her and carry her off +to the hut of her future husband, generally each man holding a limb, so +that she is supported by four men including the bridegroom. On arriving +at their destination, being accompanied on the way by bands of laughing +girls and women, she enters the hut with her four captors, and each in +turn is allowed to exercise a peculiarly marital privilege. Then having +been in this strange manner repaid for their services, they leave her to +the exclusive possession of her husband. She remains with him for three +days, then is escorted back to her father’s house by another procession, +and finally returns to her future home to take up the cares and duties +of domestic life. + +The language of the Wa-taita is about intermediate between the dialects +of the coast and those of Čaga. + +The A-kamba, who live on a broad stretch of country to the north of +Taita nearly to the base of Kenia, are the neighbours of the Gallas on +the coast. They are very roving, colonizing people, and great hunters. I +have seen many of them at Taveita, whither they would bring rhinoceros +horns and dried rhinoceros flesh for sale. These are on the whole a +good-looking race, and I was surprised to find in many that the hair, +though short, is straight, which together with a light skin shows an +intermixture of Galla blood. They are slightly clothed in leathern +coverings with a certain regard for decency. Originally, according to +their traditions, inhabitants of plains and mountains to the south-east +of Kilima-njaro, they were driven farther north by the inroads of the +Masai, and eventually settled in that long strip of country which +separates the latter race from the Galla. Here they have taken pretty +firm root, together with their close relations, the Wa-kikuyu and the +Wa-δaičo of Kenia, and however they may have been harassed by both Masai +and Galla, they have increased and multiplied. Indeed of late years they +have become too numerous in their own land for the limited supply of +food, and so are compelled to wander to the coast and to Taveita in +search of subsistence. They are a quiet, industrious, manly race, very +different to the wretched A-nyika of Mombasa (_teste_ Krapf), and will +doubtless, when their country comes to be opened up, play the same +important _rôle_ of carriers and workmen as the Wa-swahili of Zanzibar. + +The beautiful forest district of Taveita is inhabited by two different +colonies. One a Kwavi people of Masai origin, and the other and more +primitive a most interesting Bantu tribe, the Wa-taveita, who exhibit +marked peculiarities in their language and ideas. Let me begin by saying +that they are one of the pleasantest people I have ever encountered in +Africa. They are of fair height, some of the men being both tall and +robust, and attaining occasionally six feet in height. Their figures are +often models of symmetry and grace. They anoint the body with oil and +ochre, as do the neighbouring people already described. The hair is +dressed in many fashions, more often divided with fat into separate +strips, and the whole united in a pigtail at the back, or else allowed +to hang in long locks about the face and shoulders. They frequently let +the beard and moustache grow, and generally abstain from plucking out +eyelashes and eyebrows, as is done elsewhere, though this is also +occasionally practised at Taveita. Circumcision is general. Marriage is +of course a matter of purchase, but no sign of imitating capture seems +to be practised here. If the young man cannot afford to pay for his wife +at once, he gives over to the father a certain portion of the price, and +his intended bride is betrothed to him and carefully prevented from +communicating with other males until the rest of the purchase is paid. +Then she becomes a wife, and directly signs of pregnancy are manifest +she is dressed with much display of beads, and over her eyes a deep +fringe of tiny iron chains is hung, which hides her and also prevents +her from seeing clearly. She is generally accompanied by an old woman, +who is deputed to screen her from all excitement and danger until the +expected event has taken place; after which little further fuss is made, +and other succeeding children are born without any extra precautions +being taken. + +After marriage the greatest laxity of manners is allowed among the +women, who often court their lovers under the husband’s gaze; provided +the lover pays, no objection is raised to his addresses. Both sexes have +little notion or conception of decency, the men especially seeming to be +unconscious of any impropriety in nakedness. What clothing they have is +worn as an adornment or for warmth at night and early morning. These +people are affectionate and kindly in their family relations, as may be +instanced by such an episode as the one recorded on page 214 of this +work. Nevertheless they display strange callousness sometimes where +death is concerned. The body of a much-loved wife or child is hastily +buried in a shallow trench outside the circle of huts, and covered with +stones and grass. The hyenas at night proceed to exhume and devour the +corpse without provoking any interference from the sorrowing relatives, +who the next morning will kick aside the osseous fragments of their +loved ones without exhibiting the slightest sign of emotion or +tenderness. They have a vague belief in life after death, but it is the +disembodied spirits on whom they concentrate their thoughts, and not the +lifeless clay, which is to them of no account. This is not as most of +their congeners think—it is rather the effect of Masai influence; for +among the majority of Bantu negroes very considerable attention is paid +to the corpse, under the idea that the spirit of the dead person is +still much affected by the condition and disposal of its previous +tenement. + +The people of Taveita subsist mainly on vegetable food, of which they +rear a great variety in their beautiful gardens. They also eat fish and +meat. The fish are caught in the River Lumi, which runs through the +settlement, by means of skilfully-made wickerwork traps and weirs. They +also construct from the midribs of a Raphia palm most clever rods and +lines, the whole material coming from the palm, with a native-made iron +hook superadded. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 75.—Men of Taveita making fire. +] + +[Illustration: + + Drills and Fire-sticks. +] + +The Wa-taveita proper number about 2000. They bear an excellent +reputation among the coast traders for honesty and friendliness. They +speak Ki-swahili almost universally, and speak it with singular +correctness; but of course among themselves Ki-taveita is the only +language used. This very interesting Bantu dialect offers many curious +features and retains a number of archaic words in its vocabulary. It is +somewhat midway between Ki-kamba and Ki-čaga but offers independent +features of its own. So much intercourse with traders from the coast +seems to have slightly robbed them of originality, and in their modes of +life and forms of belief they somewhat ape the Wa-swahili. Many of them +are almost Mohammedans. I noticed one little detail as regards +fire-making which is worth recording. To produce fire, which is done in +the common African way by rapidly drilling a hard pointed stick into a +small hole in a flat piece of wood, is the exclusive privilege of the +men, and the secret is handed down from father to son, and never, under +any conditions—so they say—revealed to women. I asked one man why that +was. “Oh,” he said, “if women knew how to make fire they would become +our masters.” Nevertheless, without this drawback, the fair sex in +Taveita have pretty much their own way. I have known one or two leading +matrons who have always insisted on having their voice in the +deliberations of the Wazēē, or elders, who govern Taveita. I have +referred to their laxity of conduct after marriage, but it springs so +much from amiability of disposition that it can hardly be called vice. +In short, a more kindly, sensible, considerate set of beings, I have +never met than the Wa-taveita. + +The Wa-čaga of Kilima-njaro do not altogether resemble them. They are +neither so pleasing in appearance nor in disposition. Sometimes they +attain a fine stature, as in the case of Mandara, the chief of Moši, but +generally they are short men. The women, however, are at times +good-looking, and have well-proportioned figures. In fact, the ordinary +rule amongst Africans is here reversed, and the women are handsomer than +the men. Amongst these people we again meet signs of marriage by +capture, but in their case it does not seem to be as I have described in +the Wa-taita, for the bridegroom is quite equal single-handed to the +capture of his wife, and certainly not disposed to reward his friends in +the same manner as the less exclusive M-taita husband. On several +occasions when I observed a marriage ceremony during my residence in +Čaga, I found it consisted (after the purchase of the woman had been +privately arranged) in the husband carrying off his wife pig-aback, +while the relatives and friends pursued with shrieks of laughter, +affecting to try and rescue the screaming girl; but, of course, all this +was simulated, and a survival of past customs, for nowadays a man only +gets his bride when he has settled the bargain previously with his +future father-in-law. In such states as Moši, where there is a +relatively large standing army, the chief will generally distribute the +female slaves captured in war among his soldiers, and dower them himself +with cattle. Thus his soldiers become indebted to him for their domestic +happiness, and are consequently very much attached to the person of +their monarch, who is, to them, the sole dispenser of benefits. + +Real immorality hardly exists among the Wa-čaga; Mohammedan influence +not having as yet initiated them into vicious thoughts and ways. We +should be apt to call, from our point of view, their nakedness and +almost animal unconsciousness of shame indelicate, but it is rather, +when one gets used to it, a pleasing survival of the old innocent days +when prurient thoughts were absent from the mind of man. The Wa-čaga +cannot be accused of indecency, for they make no effort to be decent, +but walk about as Nature made them, except when it is chilly, or if they +wish to look unusually smart, in which cases they throw cloth or skins +around their shoulders. + +There are, as far as I can ascertain, no initiatory ceremonies among the +Wa-čaga, such as are so constantly met with in other tribes of Bantu +negroes in connection with the entrance into a state of puberty of young +people of either sex. Circumcision, if performed on the male, which it +is not universally, is generally done after the age of puberty. + +The Wa-čaga share with the Masai, whom they may have copied, a curious +habit of _spitting_ on things or people as a compliment or sign of +gratitude. I remember one man, after I returned to my settlement in Čaga +from a short trip to Taveita, was so pleased at my safe return that he +took my hand in his and spat repeatedly at the sky, saying constantly +“Eruwa iča!” (“God is good!”). They have but a vague idea of the deity. +Indeed, one never knows whether or not he is identical with the sun, for +that luminary bears just the same name, “Eruwa.” It is interesting to +notice, in contradistinction to the derivation of the name of God I +recently gave as coming from ancestor worship, that among other African +nations the deity is identified with the sky or the sun. Thus there is +the term “Eruwa” already referred to, which indicates “God” in Ki-čaga. +Among the Wa-taveita it is “Zuwa,” also “Sun,” although the Swahili have +lately introduced their word, Muungu. The form “Eruwa,” “Zuwa,” is +identical in origin with the Swahili “ǰua,” the Luganda “Njuba,” the +Congo “Ntuva,” all meaning sun, and all remounting to an archaic form +“Nduba.” On the Upper Congo the Ba-yanzi have but one word for God and +sky—“Ikuru,” or “Likulu.” Even among the Gallas “Waka” means +indifferently God and sky, and in the Masai language “Eṅgai” (a feminine +word) means both God, sky, and rain. + +However, to return to the subject of the Wa-čaga. Though having little +religious belief, they are very superstitious, and have great dread of +sorcery. Large trees are supposed to be much affected by ghosts, and for +this reason are spared by the axe. Their dead are buried in these +isolated forests, sometimes in hollow trees, sometimes in the ground. +Hyenas generally dig them up and eat them—this being little cared for by +the survivors, as is the case among the Masai and the Wa-taveita. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 76.—A Čaga Forge. +] + +The Wa-čaga are clever smiths, and forge all kinds of utensils, weapons, +and ornaments from the pig-iron they receive from the country of Usanga, +near Lake ǰipé. The forge is but a pair of goat-skin bellows converging +into a hollow cone of wood, to which is added two more segments of stone +pierced through the centre and ending in a stone nozzle which is thrust +into the furnace of charcoal. The bellows are kept steady by several +pegs thrust into the ground, and a huge stone is often placed on the +pipe to keep it firm. After the iron has been heated white hot in the +charcoal it is taken out by the iron pincers and beaten on a stone +anvil. The Čaga smiths make not only spear-blades and knives of +apparently tempered steel, but they can fabricate the finest and most +delicate. Out of a rhinoceros horn they will make a beautifully turned +and polished club, carved by hand, for they have no turning lathe. +Pottery is almost absent. Basket-work is carried to great perfection, +and they can weave it so tightly that milk may be held in these utensils +of woven grass or banana-fibre. The wooden platters that they make show +no little skill in shaping, as they are cut out of solid blocks of wood, +and not joined in any way. + +But it is in their husbandry that the Wa-čaga mostly excel. The +wonderful skill with which they irrigate their terraced hill-sides by +tiny tunnels of water diverted from the main stream shows a considerable +advancement in agriculture. Their time is constantly spent in tilling +the soil, manuring it with ashes, raking it, and hoeing it with wooden +hoes. All their agricultural implements, except the choppers, adzes, and +sickles, are of wood—wooden hoes, wooden stakes, and so on. They have a +very clever mode of irrigating equally a given surface. As the little +canals of water are always elevated above the cultivated plots, they +will tap it at a convenient spot above the bed to be watered, and then +turn the stream into a rough conduit made of the hollow stems of bananas +cut in half, the end of each stem overlapping the next. Then as the +water enters the last joint it is freely turned right and left, +dispersing the vivifying stream in all directions. + +[Illustration: + + 1. Wooden Hoe.—2. Leather Honey Case.—3. Gourd.—4. Wooden Tray or + Dish.—5. Club made from Rhinoceros Horn.—6. Knife. + + Fig. 77.—Čaga Utensils. +] + +The food of the Wa-čaga is mostly vegetable. Fish are absent from the +streams of their country; but, morever, like the Wa-taita, they think +them unfit to eat, and of the same nature as serpents. They breed fowls +in large numbers, but merely to sell to the passing caravans of traders +from the coast, for they themselves abjure poultry as food, thinking it +unwholesome and unmanly. Their other domestic animals are the ox, the +goat, the sheep, and the dog, though the latter animal is rarely seen. +The oxen are much valued. They belong to the humped Zebu breed prevalent +throughout East Africa from the days of the ancient Egyptians. The goats +are small and handsome, with poorly developed horns, drooping ears, and +often two small appendages of skin in place of the ordinary beard. The +sheep are of large size, hairy, with fine dewlaps and drooping ears. The +male has an enormously fat tail, developed to such an extent as to +really impede his movements. A fine sheep may be bought for from four to +eight yards of cloth, a fat goat for about the same cost, and a milch +goat a trifle dearer. + +Milk enters largely into the diet of the Wa-čaga, and they are also +passionately fond of warm blood fresh from the throat of a +newly-slaughtered animal. Whenever I killed an ox for my men—who being +Mohammedans insisting on cutting its throat and letting it bleed to +death—the Wa-čaga would assemble with their little wooden bowls, and as +the animal lay in its death throes on the ground, the hot purple blood +spurting at high pressure from the severed veins, the eager natives +filled one after the other their wooden vessels and then stepped apart +from the crowd to drink the coagulating gore with utter satisfaction and +a gourmet’s joy. They are great flesh-eaters when they can afford it, +but, as I have already said, their main diet is vegetable. Among the +plants grown for food are maize, sweet potatoes, yams, arums (_Colocasia +antiquorum_), beans, peas, red millet, and the banana. Tobacco is also +largely cultivated, and the natives chew it and consume it as snuff +mixed with natron-salt. Honey is produced in immense quantities by the +semi-wild bees which make their hives in the wooden cases put up by the +natives among the forest trees. A large barrelful may be bought for two +yards of cloth. + +The Wa-čaga inhabit the western, southern, and eastern slopes of +Kilima-njaro. The northern side of the mountain is without any other +inhabitants than roving bands of Masai. The principal Čaga states, +beginning on the west, are Šira, Kiboṅoto, Mačame, Uru, Kibošo, Mpokomo, +Moši, Kirua, Kilema, Maraṅu, Mamba, Mwika, Msai, Rombo, Useri, and +Kimaṅgelia. Although these little states are perpetually quarrelling +among themselves, they are nevertheless closely united by ties of blood +and possess a common language, Ki-čaga, unless, indeed, the Warombo, as +I have sometimes thought, speak a dialect of their own. + +The inhabitants of Kahe (the country lying due south of Kilima-njaro in +the plains of the Upper Ruvu), of Ugweno, and also, I am told, of Mount +Méru, seem to resemble closely the Wa-čaga in language and in physical +features. They were doubtless the same race not long since, but the +invasion of the Masai split them up into different sections, and they +became isolated in their coigns of refuge, some on the mountains, some +in the marshy swamps. The Wa-gweno are a very timid set, and greatly +afraid of witchcraft. Everything at all strange or incomprehensible is +“usawi” (sorcery). They not only dread the Masai with all their hearts, +but they also invest the little Lake ǰipé, which lies at the foot of +their mountains, with imaginary terrors, declaring they dare not fish on +its banks or cross its waters in canoes, on account of an awful +kelpy-like monster which dwells in the lake and sallies out to devour +all who may approach the waterside. In vain do the Wa-taveita go and +fish there fearlessly under the eyes of the Wa-gweno; these timorous +folk nevertheless continue to avoid the lake wherein are present such +boundless stores of food. I have no doubt that the legend of the +water-monster arose from either the voracious crocodiles or the +obstreperous hippopotami which inhabit the waters of ǰipé. + +[Illustration: + + Fig. 78.—A Čaga House. +] + +My readers may possibly have been disappointed to find in this chapter +so little information as to peculiar customs or beliefs exhibited by the +people it described. I can only say this want is not owing to any lack +of probing or questioning on my part. I have come to the conclusion that +whatever religious notions, mystic ceremonies, initiatory practices +which the inhabitants of Kilima-njaro may have retained originally from +their ancestors and shared with their other existing relatives, have at +the present time disappeared, or have been worn away by constant changes +of abode, massacres, flights, and all the incidents of an anxious +struggle for existence, which the fluctuating peoples of Eastern +Equatorial Africa have, for the last few centuries, undergone. Those who +may have read what I have previously written respecting African races on +the Congo, in Angola, and elsewhere, will perceive that I have often had +to remark curious initiatory ceremonies, elaborate animistic belief +displayed in burial customs, various modes of phallic worship, and +obscure superstitions connected with eating or drinking. Scarcely any of +these phases of savage religion, fancy, or folk-lore, have I encountered +in the peoples who inhabit Kilima-njaro and its vicinity. I do not say +they are non-existent, I merely mention that they have not come under my +personal recognition, and if succeeding travellers are more fortunate +than I in this particular, I shall conclude that in spite of my constant +investigation these peculiarities have failed to display themselves to +my perception. + + + + + CHAPTER XX. + THE LANGUAGES OF THE KILIMA-NJARO DISTRICT. + + (_a_) MASAI. + (_b_) KI-ČAGA, KI-TAVEITA, &c. (BANTU LANGUAGES). + + +The interest taken in African languages is a newly awakened but a +growing one. The work of Bleek, Lepsius, Müller, Steere, and Schön; of +Barth, Koelle, Krapf, and Reinisch—not to mention many other earnest +workers in this freshly opened field, who each contribute their quota to +our present sum of knowledge—has at length begun to meet with due +appreciation, and though many of these patient grammarians and students +of unrecognized forms of speech have passed away, yet in almost every +case their work has begun to acquire a notoriety and a value that +neither they nor their publishers hoped for when the grammars or +vocabularies or handbooks were first issued to an unheeding public. + +[Illustration: + + To face page 446. +] + +Those who are beginning or prosecuting their African linguistic +researches owe a debt of gratitude to Mr. Robert Needham Cust[57] for +his painstaking bibliographical work, which tabulates every known source +of information on the subject, and where some form of order is +introduced into what, from very paucity of knowledge, has long been a +hopeless maze of conflicting theories. Imperfect as our grasp of the +subject is, we are able now at least to rise from its contemplation with +certain definite ideas as to the grouping or classifying of African +tongues. We know there is the great Bantu family in the southern half of +the continent; the common origin and relationships of the Hamitic +languages becomes apparent; the tongues appertaining to the Semitic +group in the north and north-east are relegated to their place; and if +more general classifications of the vast number of Negro and negroid +forms of speech are found to be at present illusory, we can at least +recognize several very distinct and natural families, lacking, it may +be, any appreciable relationships with extraneous linguistic groups +outside their own area, but possessing evident signs of a common +structural plan and a common origin. Such are the Nuba tongues, the Fula +group, the Hausa, Kanuri, Wolof, Kru, Mande, Bagirmi, Šiluk, and Diṅka +language-clusters of Central and Western Africa. Distinct also, and +offering only a slight indication of possible affinities, is the +language spoken with but little dialectal variation by the well-marked +race known as the Masai, whose ethnological features have been treated +of in the preceding chapter. + +In the south, south-west, and south-central districts of Africa, +_enclaves_ of the Bushman and Hottentot tongues are found—the “Click” +languages, as they are often called, and the subject of their mutual +relations is still much disputed by authorities. But Theophilus Hahn[58] +shows that there is decided resemblance in many words of common use, and +in the first three numerals, and even Bleek is constrained to admit that +the difference between the speech of Hottentot and Bushman scarcely +exceeds that between English and Latin or English and Sanscrit, +languages derived from a common Aryan stock, though widely separated by +time and manner of development. + +(_a_) Masai. + +As far as is known, the neighbourhood of Kilima-njaro offers languages +belonging to only two of the African families which I have mentioned—the +Masai and the Bantu. As has been already stated, helot tribes of +En-durobo are often found in the vicinity of Useri, Kimaṅgelia, and the +north-eastern slopes of Kilima-njaro, but those few with whom I came +into personal contact only spoke Masai, and could not be induced to +utter any words or phrases of their own speech if they still possessed +any special dialect peculiar to them. My materials for a superficial +study of the Masai language were principally derived from individuals, +both Masai proper and the so-called “Wa-kwavi,” or agricultural Masai, +who visited the chief Mandara for trade during my residence in Moši; +from the Wa-kwavi of Kikoro, near Taveita; from the few Masai whom I met +near Useri, and from the roving Masai who visited Gonǰa, at the foot of +the Pare hills, and Semboja's town, Mazindi, on the western flank of +Usambara. I find my vocabularies agree pretty closely with those of +Krapf and Erhardt, and the chief differences arise from what I believe +to be the more exact orthography I have employed. Erhardt gives in +general the form of the word more correctly than Krapf. Both their +vocabularies, however, are deserving of the highest credit as having +been compiled with wonderful accuracy under circumstances of much +difficulty. + +Krapf called his work “A Vocabulary of the Wa-kwavi Tongue,” and Erhardt +entitled his, more justly, “A Vocabulary of the Masai Language.” Neither +seemed to be aware that they were studying the same form of speech, +although practically the only difference in their vocabularies comes +from the employment of diverse modes of orthography. The language they +illustrated seems to be a tolerably pure form of Masai which is spoken +in the vicinity of Kilima-njaro. + +I find some discrepancy between my linguistic notes and those of Mr. +Last, who visited the southern Masai, or Wa-kwavi dwelling in Northern +Nguru. I believe that gentleman has in hand a voluminous MS. vocabulary +which will, doubtless, exhibit an interesting study of the language; but +the sentences and words given by him in the Royal Geographical Society’s +“Proceedings” for September, 1883, seem to show that the dialect is +either a very corrupt one or has been imperfectly understood. Some words +are evidently borrowed from neighbouring Bantu dialects, and the +possessive pronouns and persons of the verb are sometimes not in accord +with the English translation. + +About Northern Masai we know but very little. It was a great +disappointment to me that Mr. Joseph Thomson, who is the sole European +who has yet visited those regions where the Masai impinge on other races +to the north, should have had no opportunities of making linguistic +notes. He would otherwise have been able to throw some light on the +affinities and origin of the Masai language. He mentions the people of +Sūk who dwell somewhere to the north of Lake Bariṅgo, and observes that +their language resembles Masai to a certain extent, with, however, +distinct differences. What these differences are he does not tell us, +and therefore we cannot conjecture, in the absence of information, what +affinities the Sūk language may display. + +The researches of Dr. Emin-Bey (the governor of the Egyptian Equatorial +provinces, whose fate is still uncertain) throw a certain amount of +light on the northern members of the Masai family of languages. He gives +us a vocabulary of the Latuka language (of which a few words were also +gathered by Sir Samuel Baker), and places the position of the Latuka +people in about 5° N. of the Equator, where they are nearly surrounded +by the negro tribes (and languages) of Madi, Šuli, and others. Dr. +Emin-Bey says the Latuka belongs to the Laṅgo cluster, farther south, +calls the Laṅgo a Galla language, and remarks that the Latuka also +evinces Galla affinities. In these suppositions I am disposed to +disagree with him. The Latuka language has absolutely less relationship +with the Galla than the few slight and doubtful signs exhibited by the +Masai: and the probability is that, as the Latuka is said to be closely +related to the Laṅgo, this latter language is also of the Masai group. +Though the Latuka tongue differs considerably from Masai proper, perhaps +to the extent of fifty per cent., in the small vocabulary collected by +Dr. Emin-Bey, there is, however, no doubt whatever that it is a language +of the same family, and I shall endeavour to show in the appended +vocabulary that it agrees in many test-words and essential points with +Masai. The only other known tongue which can at present be said to form +an independent member of this family is the Bari, a language spoken over +a fairly large district on both banks of the White Nile between 4° and +6° N. latitude. The fact of its evident relationship to Masai was +pointed out by Lepsius in the preface to his Nubian grammar, but this +interesting discovery has been completely ignored by other authorities +on African languages, who have grouped the Masai with Nuba,[59] Fula, +and many other utterly dissimilar tongues. + +At the present time, from the information we possess, we are able to +constitute a separate family of African languages called the Masai, of +which the undermentioned forms of speech are probably members. (I append +a query to those of doubtful existence or affinities.) + + Bari. + Latuka. + Laṅgo? + Sūk? + Samburu? + Masai. + +The only possible affinities that the Masai group displays for other +independent families of African languages are, on the one hand, with the +Diṅka and the Šiluk tongues, and on the other, with the Galla branch of +the Hamitic family. + +With the Diṅka and Šiluk (Šuli, Lur, Šiluk, &c.), the resemblances are +confined to a certain undoubted correspondence in the vocabularies, +numerals, and pronouns; while in grammar there is scarcely any affinity. + +Masai proper, more than the northern members of the family, approaches +the Galla somewhat in grammatical construction, and there are, besides, +a few cases of correspondence in the numerals and pronouns. There is +absolutely no distinction between the Masai proper and the agricultural +Masai, or “Wa-kwavi,” as regards their language. The vocabularies given +by Krapf of the Wa-kwavi, and Erhardt of the Masai, only differ slightly +in orthography, and are independent versions of one and the same form of +speech. As I have already remarked, the Masai tongue, wherever spoken by +Masai people, offers, as far as we yet know, little dialectal variation, +though it is used over a district stretching between 5° 30′ S. and the +Equator. In this uniformity it resembles the Galla language, which +exhibits but trifling differences in the dialects spoken on the confines +of Abyssinia (12° N. latitude), and on the coast of the Indian Ocean, +near Mombasa. Doubtless the fact is due to the roving habits of the +race, for, as has been already mentioned, the Masai warriors range in +their raids over nearly the entire district that bears their name, and +thus are kept in constant communication with the outlying tribes of +their race. + +Before describing in a superficial manner the grammatical construction +of the Masai tongue, I feel bound to remark that for beauty and +simplicity of expression it stands almost unrivalled among the languages +of Africa. Compared with such dreadfully complicated forms of speech as +the Fulde (spoken by the Fulbe or “Fulahs” in Central and West Africa), +where there are some nineteen[60] ways of forming the plural, and the +verbs with their many tenses and moods are worse than in Greek, the +Masai language offers the grammatical simplicity of English. It has, +moreover, a very copious vocabulary, and its combinations of sounds are +harmonious, simple, and easily pronounced by Europeans. Another pleasant +feature about it is that every syllable is so clearly enunciated by the +people who speak it that a stranger may much more easily distinguish +each word and realize its meaning than is ordinarily possible with a +barbarian tongue. + +The leading features of the Masai language are these. It distinguishes +three genders or classes of nouns, answering approximately to +_masculine_, _feminine_, and _neuter_ (or _common_). These genders are +indicated by the form of the demonstrative article, demonstrative +pronoun, nominal, adjectival, and participial prefix, but only the +last—the neuter, or common—is represented in the personal pronouns and +in the persons of the verb. + +There are two numbers, singular and plural. The plural is formed by an +addition to or a change in the _termination_ of the noun in the +singular, sometimes by a change of article,[61] and in certain parts of +speech (pronouns, a few adjectives, &c.) by prefixing or affixing _Ku_ +or _K_ to the root.[62] + +There are no cases or declensions of the noun expressed by inflection or +change in termination. The substantive in the genitive case follows the +governing word, with a particle interposed between the nominative and +genitive. This particle seems to be either masculine, feminine, or +neuter, according to the gender of the noun in the nominative case. + +The adjectives are either independent substantives assuming an +adjectival position, or else they are participles from a verbal root, +preceded by the masculine, feminine, and neuter (or general, or +collective) prefixes. + +The personal pronouns _precede_ the verb. The possessive pronouns +_follow_ the noun. The demonstrative pronouns may either be placed +before or after the substantive. The interrogative pronoun precedes the +verb, so also does the relative particle, and the interrogative particle +precedes the noun. + +The stem or root of the verb remains unaltered, but the tenses and +modifications of the sense (such as a passive, a reciprocal, a causative +meaning, &c.) are formed by adding both prefixes and suffixes. Many of +these are traceable to abbreviated forms of independent verbs. + +The negative particle is always prefixed to the verb. It is generally +expressed by the particle _me_ (_m-_ before a vowel); but in certain +tenses negation is indicated by the use of a separate prefix formed from +an auxiliary verb. + +The prepositions in Masai, as their name indicates, precede the word +they govern. The only postpositions are certain enclitic adverbs. + +The accent in Masai falls occasionally (especially in derivatives) on +the first syllable of the word (generally the root), most frequently on +the penultimate, and rarely on the last. + +Having briefly noted the leading characteristics of the language, I will +now proceed to examine its important features in a somewhat more +detailed manner. + +As regards the phonology of Masai it may be remarked that the vowels +have mostly their Italian value. There are no obscure or modified +sounds, and in this the Masai language resembles most of the Bantu forms +of speech, wherein, also, there are no vowels that are not clearly and +distinctly sounded as in Italian. In Masai words may end in a consonant +(unlike the opposite rule in Bantu), but two consonants _never_ come +together, unless one of them be a _nasal_ or a _liquid_. The sounds +represented in the language are these:— + + Vowels.—a, e, i, o, ô, u. (U is sometimes pronounced as a + semi-diphthong, like “u” in the word “sure.”) + + Diphthongs.—ai, ae, ao, au; ea, ei, eo, eu; ia, ie, io, iu; oa, oe, + oi, ou; ua, ue, ui, uo. + + Consonants.—(No _aspirates_; neither h, h′, nor χ (kh) are + represented). _Gutturals._—k, g. _Palatals._—y, ǰ (sounding both as + French “j” and “dj”), d′ (“dy′” an intermediate sound between “d” and + “j”). Č (_ch_ in church) is not present in Masai. _Dentals._—d, t, s + (no z), š (sh), ž. _Liquids._—l, r. _Nasals._—n, ṅ (ng′), ny. + _Labials._—m, b, p, w, v. (F and v are absent in Southern Masai.) + +It may be noted here that in Masai the hard and soft forms of the +gutturals, dentals, and labials are easily interchangeable. It is +difficult to know sometimes whether to write D or T, K or G, B or P. In +the same way Š, Ž, and ǰ are hardly distinguishable from one another. +The word _Žore_, “friend,” is pronounced sometimes _Šore_, _ǰore_, and +even _Dyore_. _Guduk_, “mouth,” may be _Kutuk_, _Gutuk_, or _Kuduk_. + +The article in Masai[63] seems to be of three forms, viz. _ôl_, _el_, +and _en_. The first may be taken as meaning “strong, big, masculine,” +and is probably related to _ole_, _olewa_, “strong, male, manly.” Or it +may be a compound between this sexual adjective and the second article +_el_, which latter seems to be common in gender and collective in +number, serving as plural to _ôl_, and sometimes preceding nouns of a +collective character that have no singular. _El_ most probably is a +demonstrative pronoun of common gender, and the same as _ele_, he, she, +it, this (plur. _kulo_, they, these). + +Both _ôl_ and _el_ drop their liquid consonant before the letter “s” +beginning a word; as in Arabic, a double sound of that consonant is +heard, as—_ossesin_ (= _ol-sessin_, “the body”), _ossoit_ (= _ol-soit_, +“the stone”), _es-soit_ (= _el-soit_), &c. + +The last of the three articles, _en_, assumes the forms _e_, _es_, _eṅ_ +(sometimes _eṅg_), and _em_, according as it precedes nouns commencing +with an _n_ or _m_, an _s_, a vowel, or a labial; as—_E-modi_, “a pan,” +or “pot;” _e-naṅga_, “cloth;” _es-siaṅgiki_, “a wife;” _eṅ-oloṅ_, or +_eṅ-goloṅ_ “the sun;” _eṅ-guduk_, “the mouth;” _em-bere_, “the spear.” + +The article _en_ is mainly feminine in its significance, but it also +gives a diminutive, depreciatory, weakened, playful, or affectionate +character to the word it precedes. Thus _eṅ-ker_ is “a female sheep” +(_ôl-ker_, “a ram”), _eṅ-doinyo_, “a hill” (_ôl-doinyo_, “a mountain”), +_em-barawui_, “the Wa-kwavi, or agricultural Masai,” a contemptuous name +used in the feminine sense by the nomad Masai to imply cowardice; +_eṅ-guǰita_, “tender grass” (_ôl-guǰita_, “strong, rough grass”), and so +on. + +The article _en_ (with its variants, _e_, _eṅ_, _eṅg_, _em_, &c.) seems +to be more immediately derived from _ena_, the feminine demonstrative +pronoun answering to _ele_ in the masculine, before described. It is +possible that _ena_ may be a compound of _el_, the common article, +directive, or demonstrative, and _na_ the feminine particle—i.e. +_el-na_, _e-na_, _ena_, _en_. Just as I already hinted that _ôl_ may be +compounded of _o_ (_ole_, “male”) and _el_. + +This consideration leads us to the discussion of the masculine, +feminine, and neuter (or common) particles which are often prefixed to +nouns and adjectives. + +_O_, _oi_, _li_, _le_, indicate masculinity or strength when prefixed to +a root. These forms are evidently derived from _ole_ (plur. _olewa_), +“male,” a term which is possibly allied to the verbal stem _gol_, “to be +strong,” and _iôlo_, _yôlo_, “to know,” “to be able,” and even _oloṅ_, +_goloṅ_, “sun.” Placed before a root word, _ole_ has by contraction or +abbreviation become _o_, _oi_ (_ole_, _o-e_, _o-i_), _le_, &c. This +prefix is used at present to give a masculine character to the word it +precedes: as _oigob_ (_oi-kob_; _kob_, “land”), “men of the land;”[64] +_o-irok_, “black,” masc.; _o-ibor_, “white,” masc. (_ol-doinyo oibor_, +“the white mountain”); _o-irosi_, “heavy,” masc.; _li-kai_, “another,” +masc.; _l-ino_, “thy,” masc.; and so on. + +The traces of the common or neuter prefix, _e_, _ei_, or _el_ (_ele_), +are not so frequent as either the masculine or feminine particles; still +there are several words in which it is indisputably present, as +_ei-bardani_, “bride or bridegroom;” _ei-gulo_, “breast-bone;” +_ei-baṅgi_, “a moderate-sized hill;” _e-ǰon_, “fresh, green;” _e-irok_, +“black;” _e-ado_, “long;” _e-muaja_, “how much?” all adjectives in the +common gender: and abstract nouns, as _eweji_, “place;” _eiso_ (Latuka, +_eido_), “heaven;” _e-duwa_, “bitterness;” _e-gogo_, “old age,” &c. + +The feminine prefix is _na_, and appears to be connected with the root, +_nana_, “weak, soft, tender,” even in a depreciatory sense, “worthless, +rotten.” It is united to all stems to which a special feminine sense is +to be given. Thus, _na-ido_ “sister,” a term of address to women _oido_, +“brother,” masc.; _eido_, “the brotherhood,” common; _na-daṅgile_, “dear +one, darling”—a term applied to women; _na-do_, “long,” fem. (_enaṅga +nado_, “the long cloth”); _na-gai_, “good, well,” adv. from _-gai_, +“good” (_En-gai_, fem., “God, rain,” lit. “the good”); _na-ǰon_, +“green,” fem., &c. + +Examples of the above prefixes applied to the same root:— + + _-ǰon_, “fresh, green.” + Masculine. Common. Feminine. + _Ôl-doinyo oǰon_, _El-ata éǰon_, _Em-benek naǰon_, + “the green mountain.” “fresh oil.” “the green leaf.” + +There would appear at times traces as of all these particles—_o_, _na_, +and _e_—forming or having formed themselves into pronouns for the +classes they represent, especially in juxtaposition with the verb. At +the present moment this only appears in participial adjectives formed +from verbs, and not in the tenses, where only the common prefix, _e_, is +represented. Whether anciently all three forms were used as pronouns—he, +she, and it—or whether such a development is approaching, I cannot say. +At present, he, she, it, they, are represented by a common verbal +pronoun or particle—_e_ or _ei_. Thus we say— + + Ôl-duṅani e-mud (-mud = the root of the verb). + En-daṅgile „ + El-eduwa „ + El-dana „ + + The man he disappears. + The woman she „ + The bitterness it „ + The people they disappear. + +Also _ele_, the demonstrative pronoun, is generally accepted as a +personal pronoun, meaning “he,” “she,” and “it.” “They” is ordinarily +expressed by the plural form of this word, viz. _kulo_. Of course, for +strictly demonstrative purposes, this pronoun has a feminine form, which +will be treated of afterwards. + +To summarize what I have been saying, it would seem as if originally +there had been in Masai three genders or classes of nouns—_masculine_ or +_strong_, _common_ or _general_, _feminine_ or _diminutive_—and that +these three classes were provided with certain particles which were +prefixed to word-stems to indicate the class or gender of the governing +noun. This somewhat reminds one of the concord in Bantu languages, but +the resemblance is not effectually carried out; if it were, you would be +able to say in Masai— + + _Ôl_-duṅani _o_-gol _o_-šam; ki-šam-_ole_; + The man strong he loves; we love him; + = The strong man loves; we love him; + +or, + + _En_-daṅgile _na_-lulunga _na_-kweni; ki-niṅ-na. + The woman healthy she laughs; we hear her. + = The healthy woman laughs; we hear her. + +As it is you say— + + Ôl-duṅani o-gol _e_-šam; ki-šam-_ele_, and En-daṅgile na-lulunga + _e_-kweni; ki-niṅ-_ele_. + + +In the Bantu tongues, where there is a large (in all sixteen) number of +noun-classes, the governing prefix of the subject follows throughout. +Thus in Swahili they say— + + _Wa_-tu _wa_-zuri _wa_-ja; na-_wa_-ona; + The men handsome they come; I them see; + = The handsome men are coming; I see them; + +or— + + _Ki_-tu _ki_-dogo _ki_-mo; Tu-_ki_-pate. + The thing little it is within; That we it may get. + = The little thing is inside; let us get it. + +In the sex-denoting Hamitic, Semitic, and Aryan tongues this concord, +imperfectly as it is now represented, once existed, though the +sex-denoting particles were generally added to the termination of the +word instead of preceding it. + +Thus in Galla (Hamitic) they say— + + Ni_ti_ hie_ti_ obole_ti_-_ši_ ilal_ti_ _iši_ wam_te_. + Woman poor sister her saw (and) her called. + = The poor woman saw her sister and called her. + +In this case the syllable _ti_, which has a feminine signification, and +_iši_, its variant, run through all the words dependent on the governing +noun. + +In Hottentot[65] almost the same thing presents itself (I quote from +Bleek’s Grammar):— + + //Nã-tara-_ti_, sida !hau-s-di-_ti_, /nĩ !ā-s-!na //an-hã-_ti_, + hõ-_ti_-da-ra, gare-da-ra goma-n ã-_te_. + Those women our tribe’s they, another village in dwelling find them we + do, praise we do cattle of them. + + = The women of our tribe who live in that village, we find them, we + praise their cattle. + + +In Arabic (Semitic) much the same concord is present as in Galla. Thus, +to use the same phrase we might say:— + + الامراة مسكينة شافت اختها و نادتها + + Al-imr_at_ maskin_at_ šāfat uχ_t-ha_ wa nad_at_-_ha_. + The poor woman saw her sister and called her. + +In many of the Aryan tongues the concord is exhibited by more or less +uniform terminations of words according to gender, which are usually +constant in their operation.[66] We most of us can call to mind the +masculine, feminine, and neuter endings of familiar Aryan languages, +which modify the same root in a generic sense, and which are repeated in +the dependent adjectives and pronouns. It is as much a concord as what +strikes us so particularly in Bantu, only it takes the form of a suffix +instead of a prefix. + +The personal pronouns in Masai are:— + + Sing. Plur. + 1. _nanu._ _iok._ + 2. _ie_, or _iye._ _endai._ + 3. _ele_ (he, she, it). _Vide_ demons. pron. _kulo._ + +The 2nd person singular _ie_ seems to be a somewhat mutilated form. I +fancy there are slight indications in the language of its once having +had a masculine and feminine form, as in the Semitic tongues; possibly +_oiye_, _loiye_ (_loiye_ is still used as a form of saluting males) for +the masculine, and _naiye_ for the feminine. The 2nd person plural seems +to be of a feminine character, and to be composed of _enda_, demons. +pron. fem., “that,” and _ie_ or _iye_, “thou”—so that it would +originally assume the meaning of “you, there.” In Galla, all nouns, +whether masculine or feminine, use the feminine pronoun, and are +considered to be in the feminine gender when used in a collective sense. + +_Ele_ and _kulo_, the 3rd pers. sing. and plur. are simply demonstrative +pronouns, and when not standing with the verb would be common or +masculine in gender. The female equivalents are _ena_ and _kuna_. The +objective forms of the personal pronouns are apparently the same as +those in the nominative case. In construction they are placed after the +verb or predicate. + + “I give you” is _Nanu aišo ie_. + I give you. + “Thou givest me” is _Iye īšo nanu_. + Thou givest me. + +At the same time, it must be remarked that in speaking Masai the pronoun +in the objective case is often understood rather than given. Thus “I +give” will often stand for “I give him, or you, or them,” according to +the context. + +Reflective pronouns are often simply the ordinary personal forms, but in +cases of peculiar emphasis the words _os-sesin_ (body), _ôl-dau_ +(heart), are used in conjunction with possessive pronouns. Thus “I, +myself,” is _nanu, os-sesin-lai_, lit. “I, my body;” or “I love myself,” +_Nanu ašam ôl-dau-lai_, lit. “I love my heart.” + +For the 3rd person, sing. and plur., a form _ninye_, or _nenye_, is +sometimes used. This may possibly be an old feminine form of the 3rd +person possessive article, _enye_, and may refer to a feminine noun +understood. A reciprocal form of the pronouns is sometimes made by +prefixing _pa_, a preposition meaning “for, by, with,” as _paiok_, +_paye_, &c. This has often the force of “_each other_.” + +Before the verb-root certain particles are used which seem originally to +have been abbreviated forms of the personal pronouns. + + For the 1st person sing. _a-_. + „ 2nd „ „ _i-_. + „ 3rd „ „ _e-_. (_Vide supra._) + „ 1st „ plur. _ki-_. + „ 2nd „ „ _ki-_. + „ 3rd „ „ _e-_. + +Examples:— + + -_kweni_, to laugh. + A-kweni, I laugh. + I-kweni, Thou laughest. + E-kweni, He, she, it laughs. + Ki-kweni, We laugh. + Ki-kweni, You laugh. + E-kweni, They laugh. + +It is possible that the form of the 1st pronominal prefix in the verb +was _na_,[67] an abbreviation of _nanu_. There are one or two cases in +which it still seems to linger, as in _naji_, “I am called.” The form of +the 1st and 2nd persons plural, it will be noticed, are the same. As may +be noticed in several African languages, the 2nd person plural has not a +very well fixed existence, and seems to borrow forms from the other +persons. + +The possessive pronouns are used as suffixes, and are:— + + Sing. Plur. + My, -_lai_, masc.; _ai_, fem. and -_lainai_, masc.; -_ainai_, fem. + common. and common. + Thy, -_lino_, masc.; -_ino_ or -_linono_, masc.; -_nono_, fem. and + -_nono_, fem. and common. common. + His, her, its, -_lenye_, masc.; -_enye_, fem. and common (sing. and + plur.). + Our, -_laṅ_, masc.; -_aṅ_, fem. and common (sing. and plur.). + Your (doubtful; possibly -_inye_ or -_enye_, the same as his, &c.). + Their, -_lēnyěna_, masc.; -_ēnyěna_, fem. (sing. and plur.). + +Examples of above:— + + _Arabe-lai_, my friend (masc.). + _Anaši-ai_, my sister (fem.). + _Eiboni-lino_, thy chief (masc.). + _Naiu-ino_, thy mother (fem.). + _Aji-enye_, his house (fem.). + _Tokitin-ainai_, my things (fem.). + &c. + +The relative pronouns in Masai seem to present but one form, and that is +a slight one. It consists of _n-_ prefixed to the pronominal particle +preceding the verb, as:— + + _Ôl-duṅani nešam_ (_n-e-šam_). + The man who loves. + _En-doki našam nanu._ + The thing which love I. + = The thing which I love. + +The interrogatives are:— + + _Aṅai?_ “who? which?” _Nyo?_ and _Ainyo?_ “what?” _K_-, _Ka?_[68] is + often prefixed to nouns, and means “what sort of?” “what-?” + _Ka-l-kiteṅ?_ “what sort of a bullock?” &c. + +All these interrogatives need the relative _n_- before the verb, as +_Aṅai neno?_ “Who is coming?” _Ken-doki neti?_ “What thing is here?” + +The demonstratives are:— + + Sing. Plur. + Masc. Fem. Masc. Fem. + _Ele_ or _elo_. _Ena_, “this.” _Kulo_ or _Kule_. _Kuna_, “these.” + _Elde._ _Enda_, “that.” _Kulde._ _Kunda_, “those.” + +Sometimes _n_ or _ni_ (a form of the adv. _eni_, “here,”) is prefixed to +all the forms, and accentuates their position—_nelo_ means “this, here.” +When prefixed to the plural, _ku_ is left out, as _nieldo_, “those, +these.” All these demonstratives may take their place as personal +pronouns. + +Adjectival pronouns are:— + + _Poki_ or _boki_, “all, every.” + (_Pokirare_, all two = both.) + -_kai_, other. + + _Likai_, masc. sing. } + _Eṅkai_, } fem. } the other. + _Nakai_, } sing. and plur. } the others. + _Kulikai_, common. } + +The adjectives in Masai are either independent nouns used in an +adjectival sense (like in many of our compound substantives, such as, +“dog-collar,” “mealworm,” &c.) and unassociated with gender or class; or +else verb-roots, which are preceded by the class-prefix of the noun they +qualify, and which are adjectives in a participial sense. + +Of the first description there are words like _torono_, _torok_, +originally a substantive meaning “destruction, anything broken, spoilt,” +but now only used as an adjective with the meaning of “bad, very bad,” +according to termination. _Torok_ is at once the plural and the +intensified form. Thus:— + + _Ôl duṅani torono_ is “the bad man.” + _Ôl duṅani torok_ is “the very bad man.” + _El duṅanak torok_ is “the bad men.” + +Adjectives of this description generally agree with their governing +substantive in _number_ (unless they are only found in a collective form +possessing no plural), but exhibit no prefixes indicative of gender; but +those of the second class, which comprise the bulk of the adjectives, +and which may possibly be present-participles, always prefix to their +stem the distinctive particle showing the class of the noun they +qualify. Thus, _iroši_, a verb-root meaning “to be heavy,” becomes +_oiroši_, masc., _nairoši_, fem., _eiroši_, common, according as it +serves as adjective to— + + _Ôl-alem_ (masc.), “the knife.” + _En-dolu_ (fem.), “the hatchet.” + _El-ekari_ (common), “the bread.” + +These adjectives do _not_ change their termination in the plural. +Masculine nouns, which, as I have already explained, go into the common, +neutral gender when they become plural, change their adjectival prefix +also. Thus you say:— + + _Ôl-doinyo oibor_ (the white mountain), sing.; + but + _El-doinyon eibor_ (the white mountains), plur. + +The adjectives, however, remain the same in both numbers for feminine +and common nouns. + +In Masai, the adjectives always follow the nouns. + +In treating of the prefixes, pronouns, and adjectives, I have said so +much about the substantive indirectly that there remains but little to +remark respecting this important part of speech. + +In Masai, it seems to me that the substantive originates from a +verbal-root rather than that it gives birth to the verb, as seems to be +the case in the commencement of Aryan speech, I shall treat of this +further when discussing the verb. + +I have already treated of the three genders, or classes of nouns, in +Masai; I will now briefly explain how the plural is formed. This, in the +majority of substantives, is done by adding _k_ or _ki_, _n_ or _ni_[69] +to the root, with, unless it ends in a vowel or a liquid, a vowel in +between the root and the plural suffix. As a matter of fact, most +substantives end in a vowel.[70] + +One or two seemingly irregular plurals are formed by adding _a_ to the +root, or _tin_,[71] as:— + + _Kera_, plur. of _Ker_, “a sheep.” + _Eweǰitin_, „ _Eweǰi_, “a place.” + _Tokitin_, „ _Toki_, “a thing.” + +Many collective nouns, or nouns of neuter gender, form no plural, or +occasionally (and this is also noticeable in certain adjectives) form a +plural by _prefixing ku_. This prefix _ku_ will have been already +noticed in the demonstrative pronouns where it forms the plural +(_ku-na_, _ku-lo_, _ku-lde_, &c.). It is evidently an old plural prefix +of neuter gender. There are no “cases” distinguishable in the Masai +noun, but when it is used in a “vocative” sense the definite article is +dropped and the class prefix substituted. Thus, in addressing children +you say “_Na-kera!_” “Oh, children!” instead of _Eṅ-kera_, “the +children,” “_Ô-duṅani_!” “Oh, man!” “_Eiboni!_” “Oh, chief!” + +It is difficult to treat of the Masai verb without entering somewhat +into the question of the construction of the Masai language. + +I believe that it is possible to trace most of the fundamental ideas +which form the base of this speech to monosyllabic roots. Many of these +are still existing in their primitive form, side by side with their +polysyllabic variants, and it is not difficult to guess at the +agglutinative processes which have built up the structure of the +language. + +The particles which are used to form the different concepts that are +built up from a single root may be placed before or after the stem. +Sometimes they consist of independent verbal roots, prefixed or affixed, +or they may be simple reduplications of the primitive idea with a view +of intensifying it, or adverbial or prepositional prefixes, or affixed +particles used in a passive sense, and so on. An example will better +illustrate my meaning. + +From the root, _ud_, “digging, boring, hollowing,” is derived— + + eṅg-_ud_-uk (eṅg. = the art. fem. + (“the mouth”) _ud_ = the root. + uk = another stem, meaning “shining, glittering;” + therefore + eṅg-_ud_-uk means the glittering cavity, viz. “the + mouth.”) + eṅg-_ud_-uk-aǰi (aǰi = house. _Engudukaǰi_, lit. “the mouth of the + (the “door”) house.”) + e-_ud_-oto = “hole.” + eṅg-_ud_-a = “the digger,” viz. “the field rat.” + en-d-_ud_-e = “the bowels;” lit. “a cavity.” + en-d-_ud_-ua = “a basket;” lit. the plaited or “dug into.” + en-d-_ud_-unio = “the heel,” in the sense of the heel’s + continually “digging” into the ground. + -_ud_-i, = to be dug, hollowed. + passive + _ud_-i-ki = a kind of double passive; lit. “to be furrowed + (viz. wrinkled) repeatedly.” = to purpose, + intend, after reflection. + -_ud_-i-kini = to be intended or destined for. + i-_ud_ = to rub, to wipe. + im-_ud_ = “im” = to pass; lit. to pass down, to set, as + the sun. _Eṅ-goloṅ eimud_ = “the sun sets.” + is-_ud_-o = to hide, conceal. + is-_ud_-orie = to hide carefully, viz. hide different portions + in different places. _Or_ = to divide. The + prefixed s is from the adv. _si_ = again, and + implies “repeated digging.” + ib-_ud_[72] = to fill up. + ib-_ud_-i = to be filled. &c. + +Many of the leading verbal-roots will be found in the Vocabulary. + +I will now give a few illustrations of the Masai verb and of its method +of conjugation. + + EXAMPLE I. + -_en_, to bind together. + ACTIVE VOICE. + _Present Tense._ + Affirmative. │ Negative. + Nanu[73] a_en_, I bind. │Ma_en_, I bind not. + Iye i_en_, Thou bindest. │Mi_en_, Thou bindest not. + Ele e_ën_ (or He, she, it │M_ēn_, He binds not. + _ēn_), binds. │ + Iok ki_en_, We bind. │Meki_en_, We bind not. + Endai ki_en_, You bind. │Meki_en_, You bind not. + Kuloe_ën_ (or They bind. │M_ēn_, They bind not. + _ēn_), │ + │ + _Past Tense._ + Affirmative. │ Negative. + At_ena_, I bound. │Itu_aen_, I bound not. + It_ena_, Thou boundedst. │Itu_ien_, Thou boundedst + │ not. + Et_ena_, He bound. │Etu_ēn_, He bound not. + Kit_ena_, We bound. │Itu_kien_, We bound not. + Kit_ena_, You bound. │Itu_kien_, You bound not. + Et_ena_, They bound. │Etu_ēn_, They bound not. + │ + _Future Tense._ + (The particles used in forming this tense are evidently relics of the + roots _-lo_, _-po_, signifying “to go.” _Vide_ Vocabulary, verbs.} + Al_aēn_, I shall find. │Mal_aen_, I shall not bind. + (lit. _ālo_, I │ Thou shalt not + go. _aen_, to │Mil_aen_, bind. + bind.) │ + „ │Mel_aen_, He shall not + │ bind. + Il_aēn_, thou shalt bind. │Mekil_aen_, We shall not + │ bind. + El_aēn_, He shall bind. │Mekil_aen_, (or You shall not + │ Mekipu_aen_), bind. + Kipu_aen_, We shall bind. │ „ „ + (Kipu is an irregular plural of │ „ „ + _alo_, to go, from another root.)│ + „ │Mepu_aen_, They shall not + │ bind. + │(The vowels that come together in + │ this tense are often contracted + │ with one sound. Thus “Kipu_aen_” + Kipu_aen_, You shall bind. │ will be generally heard + │ “Kip_wen_.” I spell them thus to + │ show the proper mode of + │ conjugating the tense.) + Epu_aen_, They shall bind. │ „ + │ + IMPERATIVE MOOD. + Mat_en_, let me bind. │Mi_en_, bind not. + T_ena_, bind thou. │ „ „ + Mat_en_, let us bind. │Mi_enieni_, bind ye not. + End_ena_, bind ye. │ „ „ + │ + SUBJUNCTIVE MOOD. + │ + _Present Tense._ + P_ēn_, If, when, whilst │Pema_en_ or If I bind not + I bind. │ pem_ēn_, + Pe_ien_, If thou bindest. │Pemi_en_, If thou bind not. + &c. │ &c. + +This tense is made by prefixing the preposition _pe_, if, when, whilst, +&c., to the present indicative. + +Another combination is with the relative particle _n_, _ne_, and +expresses, “that I may,” &c. It always follows an interrogative pronoun +or a preceding verb. This tense is often expressed by an infinitive in +English, as:— + + _Ayau_ n_aen_, I wish to bind; lit. I wish that I may bind. + +After a relative or interrogative pronoun it is prefixed to the verb in +the same manner, as:— + + _Aṅai nēn_? Who is binding? lit. Who that is binding? + +Its manner of uniting with the personal prefixes of the verb is the same +as that of _pe_, _me_, and other particles already given, viz.:— + + N_aen_, │_that_ I may, thou mayest, he may, &c., bind. + N_ein_, │ „ + N_ēn_, │ „ + Ne_kien_,│ „ + Ne_kien_,│ „ + N_ēn_, │ „ + +Both these particles, _pe_ and _ne_ or _ni_, together with others, such +as _teni_, “if,” perchance, _K_, _Ka_, “What?” (Ka_ien_? “What art thou +binding?”) may be prefixed to all the tenses of the indicative mood in +the active and passive voices, thus giving them a subjunctive or +potential sense. + +Thus you may say:— + + Pe_tena_, If he bound. + Ne_itukien_, That we bound not. + &c. + │ + PASSIVE VOICE. + │ + _-eni_, to be bound. + │ + INDICATIVE MOOD. + │ + _Present Tense._ + │ + Affirmative. │ Negative, + A_eni_, I am bound. │Ma_eni_, I am not bound. + I_eni_, Thou art bound. │Mi_eni_, Thou art not + │ bound. + &c. │ &c. + Adding for this tense _-i_ to the present indicative, active voice. + │ + _Past Tense._ + │ + Affirmative. │ Negative. + _Atēna_ki, I was bound. │_Ituäten_aki, I was not bound. + _Itēna_ki, Thou wast bound. │_Ituiten_aki, Thou was not + │ bound. + And so on. │ &c. + Adding _-ki_ to termination of past tense, indicative; active voice. + │ + _Future Tense._ + _Alaeni_, I shall be bound. + &c. + │ + IMPERATIVE MOOD. + _Tena_ki, be thou bound. + _Endena_ki, be ye bound. + +Besides the above-mentioned tenses, others can be formed by the aid of +auxiliary verbs, as:— + + _Aidipa atena_, I had bound, I have already bound; lit. I have + finished, I have bound. + _Ituaidip atena_, I had _not_ bound, &c. + _Ayau naen_, I would bind; lit. I would, will, desire that I bind. + +Many verbs, especially derivatives, and those commencing with _i_, make +their past tense differently from the mode already described, viz. by +simply affixing _a_ to the root. Thus:— + + _Aidip_, I finish. + _Aidipa_, I finished. + _Aiken_, I count. + _Aikena_, I counted. + +The mode of forming the past tense in other verbs is, as in the first +example, given by prefixing _-ta_, _-te_, _-ti_, _-to_, or _-tu_, to the +root, and adding _a_ to stems ending in a consonant, as:— + + _A_-t-_ena_ │I bound. + (properly _a_-te-_ena_),│ + ────────────────────────┼────────────────────────────────────────────── + _A_-ta-_šama_, │I loved (from _šam_, to love). + _A_-ti-_riša_, │I equalled (from _riš_, to equal). + _A_-to-_roro_, │I trod (from _roro_, to tread). + _A_-tu-_šuma_, │I put down (from _šum_, to put down). + +It may be remarked that on the tonic vowel of the root, the vowel of the +prefix _-t-_ generally depends. + +The elements of construction in the verb may be briefly summarized. + +The present affirmative is simply the root with the personal prefixes +added. The past affirmative is formed by prefixing _-ta_, _-te_, _-ti_, +_-to_, or _-tu_, to the root, and affixing _a_, or by doing the latter +only in the case of most derivative verbs commencing with _i_. + +It is possible that the _-ta_, &c., prefixed to the verb to form a past +tense is related to the verb-root _-ta_, “to be, become, have.” The +origin of the future tense has already been surmised. It is formed by +prefixing _-l_ (_al_, _il_, _el_) to the three persons in the singular +of the present tense, and _-po_ (_kipu_, _epu_) to the three persons in +the plural. + +The imperative, it will have been remarked, resembles greatly the past +tense in the affirmative. In those verbs which form their preterite +without prefixing _-t-_, the imperative also lacks this particle, and +resembles the past tense exactly in the 2nd pers. sing. In the 2nd pers. +plural, the _e_, _en_, _em_, _end_, placed before the verb, as in +End_ašam_, “love ye;” End_en_, “bind ye,” stands for _Endai_, “you.” + +The negative is generally formed by prefixing _m_ or _me-_ to the +affirmative. This particle is derived from the adverb _emme_, “no, not.” +The exception to this rule lies in the negative past tense of indicative +where _itu_, _etu_ takes the place of _m_. I cannot obtain any clue to +the origin of this prefix, unless it is related to _-toa_, “died, +ceased” (_Atoa_, “I died.”) + +The passive is usually formed by adding _i_ in the present, and _ki_ in +the past tenses to the form of the active voice. In some verbs, _-i_ is +replaced by _-ki_ or _-ni_, and either of these two may be doubled to +intensify or modify the sense. + +The meanings of verbal-roots may be altered by various affixes and +prefixes. Among the former are— + + _-šo_, causative (from _-išo_, to give). + _-ate_, reciprocative. + _-ie_, transitive. + _-si_, intensitive (from _-si_, again). + _-ge_, restrictive (from _-ge_, only, but). + _-ka_, applicative. + +The verb “to be, to have (viz. be with), to become, to exist,” is +expressed by three forms:— + + _-ra_, _-ta_, and _-ti_. + +_-ra_ applies more to actual existence, and is only used in the present +tense, _-ta_ is used in present and past, and with compounds. It is +often translated by “to have.” _-ti_ applies to locality generally, and +is possibly no thing but the preposition _ti_, “in, on” (_Ati_, “I am +here,” _Iti_, “thou art here, or there,” &c.). There are some few +defective verbs, and one or two such as “to go,” “to come,” which are +irregular, and made up of several different roots, as happens often in +other tongues. + +As previously explained, great variety of meaning may be obtained from +the original monosyllabic roots, which express simple concepts, by the +agglutinative process which tacks on before and behind other particles +which enlarge, diminish, or intensify the primitive sense of the verb. + +Adverbs in Masai are generally affixed, and prepositions prefixed to the +verb-root. Many independent nouns or verbs have the form of adverbs and +prepositions. The conjunctions are _au_, “or, either;” _o_ and _na_, +“and, with,” according to gender. + +Having now passed the main features of this language in review, we may +be better able to fix its position and relationships among other African +linguistic groups. + +In the recognition of sexual gender it resembles the Semitic, Hamitic, +and Hottentot tongues; but, as I have tried to show, this generic +distinction is somewhat hazy and seems to have originated rather in +differentiating the strong, big things from the small and weak. The +three classes in Masai, viz. strong or masculine, neuter or common, +feminine or weak, seem to occupy a somewhat intermediate position +between the many arbitrary classes in the Fula and Bantu languages, and +the two genders of nouns—male and female—in the Semitic and Hamitic +families. The “feminine” consonant in Masai is _n_. In the +Hottentot,[74] Hamitic, and Semitic languages it is generally _t_ (ϑ +(_th_), _š_, _h_). + +In the question of construction the primal roots of the Masai language +seem to have been monosyllabic—in this differing from the Bantu and +Hamitic (wherein they were probably dissyllabic) and the Semitic (in +which they were trisyllabic and triliteral). The manner of forming the +plural by adding an affix to the root resembles the plan adopted in +certain Hamitic or Ethiopic tongues, particularly in Galla, where the +few plurals that exist are made by adding _-n_, _-ni_, _-da_ to the +singular form of the noun. The secondary and rarer mode of giving a +plural signification to a root (chiefly in pronouns and adjectives, and +in Bari in certain nouns) by changing the prefix to _ku_ (Bari, _ko_), +reminds one of the prefix-governed families of African tongues. + +The mode of forming derivative verbs by affixing various suffixes to the +stem, thus imparting a reciprocal, causative, or intensitive meaning to +the simple root, recalls the same method in the Galla and Bantu +languages. + +At the same time, although the Masai group offers certain points of +agreement in grammatical features with the Hamitic and Bantu divisions, +there is no positive approximation to either. Certain of the numerals +bear a slight resemblance to those of the Galla, and there are also a +few words alike in the vocabularies of both these groups, but the +similarity is possibly accidental, or some of the words may have been +borrowed, one from the other. Masai certainly resembles Galla in its +recognition of sexual gender, but differs from it by the possession of a +third or neuter class of nouns (the Galla, all Hamitic or Semitic +tongues beside, only recognizes two genders, masc. and fem.). Judging by +certain indisputable resemblances between the vocabularies of Masai and +Bari and the Diṅka-Šiluk tongues, there is a great probability that the +origin of the Masai family of languages is to be traced to the basin of +the White Nile. Its affinities with the Galla branch of the Hamitic +group raise the same interesting problems as the similarity which exists +in certain grammatical features between the Hausa language of the Niger +basin and the Berber tongues. On these points depend the solution of +many difficult questions respecting the origin of the Hamitic and +Semitic languages, and possibly races. + +I append the following vocabulary of Masai for purposes of reference +rather than with any idea of giving a glossary of the language. This +would be out of place in a work of this sort, and therefore the +following list of words is only given for the convenience of the student +of African philology who may happen to take up this book. + +I have added to the Masai vocabulary words from other African languages, +either belonging to the same group or forming part of separate +linguistic families which might seem to be remotely connected with the +Masai. + + +The mode of spelling adopted in these and other vocabularies which +follow, and throughout the volume where African names are introduced +which have not a generally accepted orthography, is practically the same +as that proposed in Lepsius’ “Standard Alphabet.” The following letters +are used:— + +Vowels:— + + _a_, _ā_, _e_, _ē_, _i_, _ī_, _o_, _ō_, _ô_, _ö_, _u_, _ū_, _ü_. + +Consonants:— + + _k_, _g_, υ, χ, _h′_, _h_, _y_, _ǰ_, _č_, _d′_, _d_, ϑ, δ, _t_, _s_, + _š_, z, ˇ, l, r, n, ṅ, ń (ny), m, b, p, f, v, w. + +In their pronunciation it may be said roughly that the vowels are +sounded as in Italian and the consonants as in English, but for the +benefit of those who have not studied Lepsius’ system I give a further +explanation. Among the vowels + + _a_ is sounded as in “master.” + _ā_ „ „ “rather.” + _e_ „ „ “met.” + _ē_ „ „ “grey.” + _i_ „ „ “bit.” + _ī_ „ „ “ravine.” + _o_ „ „ “not.” + _ō_ „ „ “bone.” + _ô_ „ „ “store,” or _a_ in “all.” + _ö_ like the German _ö_ in “Böse,” or French _œu_ in “cœur.” + _u_ „ „ “put.” + _ū_ „ „ “rule” (oo). + _ü_ like the French _u_ or German _ü_. + +The consonants are sounded thus:— + + _k_ as in “kitten.” + _g_ as in “gate.” + γ (the Greek gamma) like the Arabic غ (γain), a sound resembling the + Northumberland “burr” or the French + “_r grasséyé._” + χ (the Greek chi), like _ch_ in German or خ in Arabic. + _h′_, like the Arabic ح, a strongly aspirated _h_. + _h_ as in “house.” + _y_ as in “year.” + _ǰ_ as in “jar” (the English “j”). + _č_ as _ch_ in English or _c_ before _e_ and _i_ in Italian. Ča = cha. + _d′_ a sound like “dy,” intermediate between _ǰ_ and _d_. + _d_ as in “day.” + ϑ as _th_ in “think.” + δ as _th_ in “that.” + _t_ as in “tale.” + _s_ as in “sail.” + _š_, English _sh_, as in “shawl.” + _z_ as in “zinc.” + _ž_ as in “azure” = the French “j.” + _l_ as in “lace.” + _r_ as in “Rome.” + _n_ as in “need.” + _ṅ_ as in “singing”—a ringing nasal sound like _ng_, but carrying on no + sound of the _g_. + _ń_, sometimes used at the end of words for _ny_ = the Spanish _ñ_. + _m_ as in “maid” and “umpire.” + _b_ as in “boat.” + _p_ as in “perch.” + _f_ as in “fail.” + _v_ as in “veil.” + _w_ as in “wait” and “nawab” (a consonantal _u_). + +Where the accent is not marked, it generally falls on the penultimate. + +(_b_) The Bantu languages of Kilima-njaro. + +At the risk of wearying a majority of my readers, I will preface my +vocabularies of the Bantu languages of the Kilima-njaro district by a +slight sketch of the main features of this most remarkable family of +tongues. The word “Bantu” has been so often used in this book that there +are some who may be unaware of its meaning, and annoyed at its constant +repetition and apparently meaningless character. To these, and not to +the advanced in African studies, I tender this little general +dissertation. + +[Illustration: + + Map No. 5.—Map of Africa, showing range of Bantu Languages. +] + +Any one who glances at a linguistic map of Africa—such an one as Mr. +Ravenstein has drawn for Mr. Cust’s book on African languages—will +hardly fail to perceive how thickly certain districts, such as +Abyssinia, the basin of the White Nile, the Lower Niger, or the country +round Sierra Leone, are dotted with the names of distinct languages. Nor +is it merely a question of numerous dialects of common origin. Many of +these tongues—spoken, it may be, by only two or three thousand +inhabitants of a single cluster of villages in a circumscribed area—are +quite isolated, quite without relationships to other known forms of +speech; or again, some of the languages may show faint indications of +possible affinities—just a few hints in their grammatical construction +or vocabulary, or phonology—sufficient to enable great generalizers in +philology to bundle them together in one common group, in a desperate +hope of simplifying the arrangement of African languages. Even the +well-marked and undoubted natural families that overlie these +regions—the Hamitic, the Fula, the Nubian, the Šiluk, the Hausa, the +Mandiṅgo—exhibit only sufficient similarity of structure in their +different branches to enable the philologist to satisfy himself that he +is justified in regarding them as forming homogeneous groups. But the +various members of any one of these families often differ widely in +their vocabularies, and sometimes are unlike in many grammatical points. +For instance, Galla and Šilha (Shlu) (the language of the Moroccan +Berbers) are both members of the Hamitic group, yet, beyond their +structural resemblance and their agreement in certain main features of +grammar, they scarcely possess a root or test-word in common.[75] I need +not multiply instances of this; the fact is already recognized by +students of African languages, that in the northern half of the +continent there are bewildering multitudes of diverse tongues belonging +to many independent families, and apparently irreducible to a common +origin. Yet cross the irregular boundary-line which runs over the +continent from 6° N. on the west coast to the Equator on the east +coast—viz. the northern limit of the Bantu speech—and what do we find? +Why that the whole of the southern half of Africa, with the exception of +the Masai and Galla intrusion in the north-east and the Hottentot +enclave in the south-west,[76] is the domain of a single homogeneous +family of languages, the Bantu differing perhaps less among themselves +than do the many offshoots of the Aryan stock. The only other African +tongues which in any way approach the Bantu (as regards similarity of +structure) occupy little isolated patches of country in Central and +Western Africa, surrounded often by totally dissimilar forms of speech. +Originally, there is little doubt, the primal Bantu language was as one +of these, a member of a little group of prefix-governed tongues +developed somewhere in the heart of Africa. Peculiar circumstances gave +the people who spoke it the opportunity of playing a great _rôle_ in +unwritten African history; and the Bantu negroes, at one time very +likely an obscure and unimportant tribe like the Temne and Bulom of +Sierra Leone, the Efik of Old Calabar, or the Tumale of Kordofan, became +the ruling and almost the exclusive race of Southern Tropical Africa, +swallowing up, obliterating, absorbing the previous inhabitants of the +land, and carrying their own form of language triumphantly from the +Upper Nile to Natal, and from the River Tana on the east coast to +Fernando Po on the west. In the spread of the Masai race and language we +may see, on a much smaller scale, a parallel to this extension of the +Bantu. It will be remembered that I already have pointed out the +relations which the Masai language bears to the Šiluk and other tongues +spoken in the basin of the White Nile. Some of these forms of speech +resemble Masai about as much as the Non-Bantu prefix-languages resemble +Bantu-proper. Most of them are spoken over small and confined areas. Yet +the range of the Masai tongue and its various dialects extends almost +uninterruptedly from 3° N. to 5° S. of the Equator, wherever the Masai +race has spread in its warlike raids. Now we know that in many parts of +Eastern Equatorial Africa the Masai only arrived, as it were, the other +day. In many districts, too, in the centre of their present home the +remnant of aboriginal natives still retain the oral tradition that +several generations ago the Masai were unknown in the land. Yet, with +the exception of a few isolated mountain-ranges where the Bantu-speaking +inhabitants still linger, the Masai language is dominant throughout the +whole length and breadth of the huge country known as Masai-land. +Moreover, it is probable that had this warlike race not encountered +natives armed with firearms and dominated by Arabs on the south, they +would have overrun a considerably larger district than the one they at +present occupy, and their language would have acquired an even greater +range, and in course of time have lost its uniformity, and become split +up into many separate dialects. Yet it is probable that some centuries +ago the Masai were only a small section of a Nilotic race which adverse +circumstances drove from its original home, and forced farther and +farther south, the Masai all the time developing their fighting +qualities, first to save themselves from extinction, and then in turn to +pursue a successful policy of rapine and dominion. Such, in all +likelihood, were the origin and history of the spread of the Bantu race +and language. It is quite possible that before their advent the southern +half of Africa was sparsely populated, perhaps by a low type of negro in +the north and west, and Hottentots, Bushmen, and Pigmies in the south +and centre. The invading Bantu carried all before him in the early days +of his invasion, and was probably little but a fighting-man, as is the +Masai at the present day. In the west, however, he was stopped—choked, +one might almost say—by the dense negro population, and in the +south-west by the Hottentots, who were probably driven to bay in this +corner of the continent. In the centre of Africa the race and language +of the Bantu people are purest to this day, probably from the much less +intermixture which took place between them and any previous inhabitants. +Judged by his purest types—the inhabitants of the great lakes and the +Congo basin—the Bantu was probably a red race in its origin. +Intermixture with Hottentots has given the Zulus a yellowish tinge, and +clicks in their language, and the fusing of Bantu and Negro on the west +coast has debased the character of the speech and deepened the colour of +the skin. + +Taking into consideration the fact that the unwritten languages of a +savage people vary with extraordinary rapidity, and noting at the same +time how great is the uniformity in grammar, construction, and +vocabulary between all the Bantu languages, we can hardly believe that +they are a very ancient offshoot of the negro race, or that the date of +their original dispersion from their centre of development is very far +removed. I should think, as far as we may judge, that it is about 2000 +to 2500 years since the Bantu people commenced their invasion of +Southern Africa; and that before this date—before the dispersal of what +was evidently a compact and homogeneous tribe—one common language, the +Bantu mother-speech,[77] was spoken. One of the principal reasons which +induces me to hazard this guess as to the recent period at which this +family of languages split up into separate branches and spread out over +half the continent of Africa, is the interesting fact that in nearly +every form of Bantu speech the domestic fowl is indicated by words of +one type, all pointing to a common origin. This in its most archaic form +is _ṅguku_. This is the term used in Ki-nyoro,[78] in Lu-ganda (the +language of Buganda, on the north-west shore of the Victoria Nyanza), in +the tongues of the Upper Congo, of Lake Tanganyika, of Kilima-njaro, at +the present day, while variants of the same word are found in Kafir +(_iṅkuku_), Zulu, Mpoṅgwe, and, in short, almost all the known members +of the Bantu group. Now this leads us to believe that the domestic fowl +must have been known to the original Bantu race before it commenced its +migrations from the centre of its development, from its primal home. Yet +the era of the domestication of _Gallus Bankiva_ is not a very remote +one, as far as we can ascertain, even in Malacca and Indo-China, its +original habitat. Hindustan seems to have known it as a domesticated +bird about 2000 years B.C., China about 1200 B.C., and the Polynesians +possibly carried it with them when they started about two thousand years +ago to colonize the Pacific Archipelagoes. From India it spread to +Persia, and the Persians made it known to the Greeks about 1000 B.C. +Aristophanes called it the “Persian bird.” It was not known to the +Romans till much later, and the Ancient Jews ignored it till long after +the Babylonian captivity. It was introduced into Egypt, as far as we can +tell, during the early part of the Ptolemic rule. Down the Nile it +quickly spread to the negro and negroid inhabitants—as quickly as +turkeys, Muscovy ducks, pine-apples, manioc, Indian corn, and other +American products have penetrated to the heart of Africa during the last +two centuries—and thus probably reached the ancestors of the Bantu race +not more than some two thousand years ago. Even yet there are many parts +of Africa where the fowl is not known, such as in Masai-land and in some +parts of South and West Africa. The Bushmen have it not. Moreover, the +fact that there is such an absence of special varieties and peculiar +breeds seems to suggest that the fowl in Africa has not yet had time to +depart in any marked manner from the original stock.[79] + +By studying the comparative vocabularies of the Bantu languages, many +interesting conjectures may be made as to the original home and +primitive condition of this people. Thus the fact that similar words are +used in the remotest and most widely separated members of the group to +express “leopard,” “elephant,” “hippopotamus,” “buffalo,” “pig,” “ape,” +“monkey,” “grey parrot,” “bee,” &c., leads us to believe that these +creatures were familiar to the primitive Bantu race; while we may infer +that because the rhinoceros, giraffe, lion, ostrich, and zebra are known +by many different and varying terms in the dialects of those tribes +acquainted with them, they were unknown to the forefathers of the people +in their ancestral home. Now the first-mentioned list of creatures (with +many others which might be cited but for want of space) suggest a +well-forested and well-watered country in West Central Africa as the +original abode of the Bantu race. The grey parrot, for instance, is +found as far east as the Victoria Nyanza, and as far south as Angola, +but otherwise is confined to Western Africa. The leopard, elephant, +apes, and monkeys mostly affect densely-wooded regions. The hippopotamus +only inhabits big rivers or lakes. The buffalo is rarely found +_westward_ of the Niger. On the other hand the lion, giraffe, +rhinoceros, zebra, or ostrich decidedly prefer the sparsely-wooded +steppes and savannahs of Eastern and Southern Africa; so that, on the +whole, we may conclude that the primitive Bantu being unacquainted with +them, and knowing other creatures (such as the grey parrot) confined to +the forested districts of Western Central Africa, there had his primæval +home, and thence started on his career of conquest and colonization over +Western, Southern, and Eastern Africa. + +From the fact that there is a common name for “ox” (_ṅgombe, iṅkombo, +iṅkomo, omo, ṅombe_) throughout nearly all the Bantu languages, we may +safely infer that cattle-keeping was a feature of the primitive life of +the race, and also that they were agriculturists, because the terms +applied to various implements for tilling the soil, to “ploughing,” +“digging,” “sowing,” “reaping,” are retained, very little altered, by +some of their remotest descendants. We may gather from the same reasons +that besides the ox they possessed other domestic animals, namely, the +goat, possibly the sheep, the dog, the pig,[80] and the fowl. Of the +present cultivated plants, very few were known to them in the days +before their dispersal, perhaps only millet, pumpkins, edible arums, the +banana, and a few obscure roots and fruits. + +They seem to have been acquainted with the use of iron and copper, used +smelting-forges of the primitive type still in vogue, and beat out +knives, spears, and arrow-heads as they do now. The bow was certainly in +common use, and its name is not only well-nigh universal throughout +Bantu Africa, but also seems to have sprung from a very old root. +Pottery, basket-weaving, and some form of clothing, either of plaited +grass, banana-fibre, or imported cloth, was in use. Canoes were familiar +to the early Bantu people, to judge by the universality of their +primitive name. A conception of a Supreme Being or Creator seems to have +existed, but a belief in spirits of the dead, in magic, witchcraft, +certain vague forms of “fetishism,” and phallic worship certainly +prevailed, and the “medicine-man,” “rain-maker,” or magician most +undoubtedly exercised as powerful a sway over the primitive Bantu as he +does throughout every branch of his widespread descendants. + +Apparently in that golden age before their dispersal the Bantu people +were neither acquainted with small-pox, syphilis, nor many forms of +disease which plague them nowadays. They smoked hemp, possibly, but not +tobacco, and they drank one or two kinds of fermented liquors. They +anointed themselves with oil, rancid butter, red earth, and the dyes of +certain trees. They sang and they danced, and they possessed drums and +musical instruments with strings. + +Circumcision is not universal among all Bantu nations at the present +day, and it is possible that it was not originally practised by their +common ancestors, though at the same time it may have been partially in +use. Initiatory ceremonies for youths on attaining manhood were +certainly in vogue. Just as the life of the early Aryans may be +conjectured from the examination of word-roots common to most of the +forms of speech which are descended from an Aryan mother-tongue, or in +the same way by a careful study of the modern Bantu languages, we are +able not only to reconstruct the primitive Bantu speech, but we can also +glean much information as to the relative culture and mode of life +existing in the original tribe of negroes from which most of the Bantu +races of Africa are descended. + +It is just possible that some of my readers may wish to know the meaning +and origin of this term “Bantu” which has been so frequently used in +this book, and which is generally accepted as the designation of an +important family of African languages and a large section of the negro +race. “Bantu” (properly _Ba-ntu_) means “men, people, folk.” It is the +plural of _Mu-ntu_ “a man,” “a human being,” and is a term which under +different variations is present in nearly every one of the languages +belonging to this family. It may become _Wantu_, _Wandu_, _Watu_, +_Vantu_, _o Vantu_, _Vatu_, _Atu_, _Batu_, _Wanu_, _Vanu_, _Anu_, _o +Manu_, but it is always traceable back to the archaic form—_Bantu_. This +with the added article in some languages becomes a _Bantu_. Such it is +in Zulu, in Kaffir, and such it is in Ki-nyoro and Lu-ganda, on the +Victoria Nile and the Victoria Nyanza. On account of the universality of +this form, and of its being so characteristic of the structure of these +languages, it was proposed by Bleek as a fit designation for the great +South African family of prefix-governed tongues. Many other titles, of +course, have been suggested. Krapf proposes, firstly, “Nilotic,” which +is absurd, as only one or two outlying members of the family touch the +Nile; and Orphno-Cushitic, which is utterly unmeaning and very +cumbersome. Another writer suggests “Kaffir-Congo” as a fit appellation, +but how is this term to include the languages of Kilima-njaro and the +Cameroons? “Zingian,” “Zanjian,” are equally silly and inadequate. “The +prefixing languages” is not sufficiently restrictive, as several other +African groups are governed by prefixes—in short we return to “Bantu” as +the only satisfactory designation of this class of languages and of the +tolerably homogeneous races who speak them. The leading characteristics +of the Bantu languages have been much misinterpreted by various writers +on African philology. As a rule one original author takes the question +up in a superficial manner, studies one particular language, or at most +a small section of the entire group, draws a few hasty conclusions, and +those who succeed him in a consideration of the subject copy him like +unreasoning parrots, and spend neither time nor trouble in elaborating +an opinion of their own. Thus Bleek, who only made a detailed study of +Kaffir-Zulu, and was (through no fault of his) unacquainted with more +recently discovered tongues, states that he considers the Kaffir-Zulu to +be the most archaic form of existing Bantu speech and the nearest +approach to the original mother-tongue. Other writers succeeding him +blindly copy the same opinion and parade it as their own, whereas had +they taken the trouble to make any independent researches, using recent +material to aid them, they would have long since ascertained that +Kaffir-Zulu is very far from proving to be the Sanskrit of the Bantu. +Again, other authors, speak of the concord (a feature by no means +peculiar to the Bantu, but present in many other radically different +languages, as I have pointed out on page 459) as “euphonic +alliteration.” This is rubbish. Its origin is clearly not euphony, but +lies in the laborious reiteration which in so many savage languages is +used to obtain certainty of meaning; and as to alliteration, why in most +languages it does not exist because the nominal and other prefixes no +longer correspond in sound. For instance, in Lu-ganda, one of the most +archaic of Bantu languages, we should say— + + Mu_ti_ gu_li_ mu_vundo_ gu_tuka_; _tu_gi_sale_. + Tree that rotten falls; let us it cut down. + = That rotten tree is falling; let us cut it down. + +If it were a question purely of euphonic alliteration we should expect +to find _mu_ as the concord-prefix applied to “Muti,” a noun of the +third class. But, as you see, it is sometimes _mu_, sometimes _gu_, and +sometimes _gi_. This is explained to the careful student who finds by +research that the original form of the third prefix was _ṅgu_, which +became changed in some situations to _mu_, and in others to _gu_ or +_gi_. This is not only the case in nearly all the Bantu languages, but +it applies to many of the prefixes, and shows that anything like +alliteration does not often occur. + +Another generally enunciated dictum about the Bantu languages was that +_all_ their roots were polysyllabic. This is, however, not the case. +While some of the simple concepts expressed in words of more than one +syllable cannot be dissolved any farther into their component elements, +at the same time many most important ideas are expressed by monosyllabic +roots which are certainly not abbreviations. Such are the widespread +forms found in nearly every member of the group: _-fa_, “dying, to die;” +_-pa_, “to give;” _-ndi_ and _-ba_, “to be;” _-ta_, “to slay;” _ńa_ +(_nya_) “to evacuate;” _ya_, _za_, “to come,” &c., and numberless +noun-roots, such as _-ti_ (in _mu-ti_, “a tree”—anything to do with +wood; _ka-ti_, “a little stick;” _-ka_, diminutive prefix), _-ntu_, “an +object” (_mu-ntu_, “man;” _ki-ntu_, “thing;” _pa-ntu_, “place,” &c.), +and so on. + +We may therefore reduce the real features of the Bantu family of +languages to these:— + + I. They are agglutinative in their construction. + + II. _None_ of their words ever end in a consonant except in rare + instances, where the termination through contraction becomes a nasal + sound. + + III. No two consonants come together without an intervening vowel, + except where one of them is a nasal or a labial. + + IV. Substantives are divided into many classes or genders, the full + number of which is sixteen. These are governed by characteristic + prefixes, differing in singular and plural, and observing the + “concord” throughout the sentence. + + V. No sexual gender is recognized, but two particular classes of + prefixes (one singular, and one plural) indicate sentient forms of + animal life only, though these may also be expressed by nouns bearing + other prefixes as well. + + VI. The pronominal-particles (which are really identical in origin + with the prefixes) must always precede the verbal-root, except in the + imperative mood. + + VII. The verbal-root may modify its termination by change of vowel or + by suffixing certain particles; or it may even change its radical + vowel, either to form a tense or to alter the original meaning of the + simple stem, this being actually inflection. + + VIII. Adjectives and numerals always _follow_ the noun. + +The complete number of prefixes is, as before remarked, sixteen. Bleek +has made it eighteen, by adding two prepositions to the list, which in a +few of the languages appear to adopt the concord; but they are +independent prepositions, and not true pronominal-prefixes. + +In the most archaic forms at present discoverable the sixteen prefixes +are as follows:— + + Singular. Plural. + 1. Mŭ. 2. Ba (Mŭ and Ba are only applied + to sentient beings). + 3. Mū (Ṅgu).[81] 4. Mi (Ṅgi). + 5. Di or Li (Ndi). 6. Ma (Ṅga). + 7. Ki (Ṅki?). 8. Bi (Pi?). + 9. N- (Ni?). 10. Ti, Ti-n (ϑi-n?). + 11. Lu. 12. Tu (often diminutive in sense). + 13. Ka (often diminutive in sense). + 14. Bu (generally used to form abstract nouns from concrete roots). + 15. Ku (a directive; identical with preposition meaning “to.” Used as + an infinitive with verb-roots). + 16. Pa (locative; only applied to nouns or other forms of speech + indicating place or position). + +There are few instances of the prefixes changing from plural to singular +in signification, or _vice versâ_, except that the 14th (Bu), which is +generally used to form abstract nouns, may occasionally serve as plural +to the 13th (Ka). The 15th and 16th (Ku and Pa) are of no number, being +practically prepositions. Ku is used with verbs in the sense of “to,” +and as an adverb of locality. Pa only serves as concord to nouns of +place, and as a preposition generally means “here” and “on.” The 9th +prefix often adheres to nouns in both numbers. + +As regards the correspondence of singular and plural prefixes, it is by +no means constant, though the plan set forth above is considered by some +the normal one. The 1st (Mu) always takes the 2nd (Ba) as a plural, but +the 2nd prefix may occasionally become plural to the 9th (N-). The 5th +always takes the 6th and the 7th and the 8th as plural, but the 6th +prefix (Ma) and the 8th (Bi) sometimes correspond with other singular +prefixes. Thus Ma may often be the plural of Bu, or of N-, or of Lu. +Again, the 12th prefix (Tu) is very often the plural of the 13th (Ka), +and the 10th (Tin or ϑin) of the 11th (Lu). In some languages certain +prefixes drop out altogether, and are either represented by a hiatus or +replaced by another prefix. Indeed, there are very few Bantu languages +in which all the sixteen prefixes are present, and probably none in +which they all retain their archaic forms. + +In Makonde, a language spoken about Cape Delgado in East Africa, the +entire sixteen are present, and possibly this occurs also in Ki-nyoro, +the tongue spoken in Bu-nyoro, on the Victoria Nile, Oči-herero, of +Damara-land, and probably a few languages of the Congo basin and the +Upper Zambezi possess this distinction. On the other hand, there are +many Bantu tongues in which the number of classes has become very much +diminished, while some of the prefixes have so changed their forms as to +become fused into others, and no longer recognizable. Thus, in Mpoṅgwe, +the corrupt tongue of the Gaboon, there are only twelve of the original +sixteen classes represented, and among these the 1st, 3rd, and 11th +assume the same form, and can only be distinguished by their +corresponding plurals or concord. In Swahili, also, the classes are +reduced to twelve, and in some other languages to eleven, and even ten. + +Again, the forms of the prefixes often vary from the standard already +cited. Thus Ba will become Va, Wa, A, and even Ma. And ϑin or Tin change +to Zin, Din, Lin, or ϑon. + +The Bantu languages have been divided for convenience of description +into four main branches, the Western, Southern, Eastern, and Central. +These are not altogether natural and homogeneous divisions, as some of +the languages though geographically close to one another are in reality +widely separated in manner and time of development. However, for the +present this arrangement, being a simple one, may stand. + +It is, therefore, in the Eastern division that the Bantu languages of +Kilima-njaro are placed, though they exhibit certain points of +resemblance to the tongues spoken on the Victoria Nyanza. On the whole, +perhaps, their most decided affinities lie with the languages to the +east of them, namely, the Ki-kamba, Ki-taita, Ki-nyika, and Ki-pokomo. + +The language spoken _on_ Kilima-njaro is Ki-čaga. This seems to be the +speech of all the Bantu inhabitants of the mountain, unless, indeed, the +Wa-rombo are to be excepted. These wild people seemed to me to use a +different dialect to the rest of the Wa-čaga. (_Vide_ Chapter XIV.) + +To the south-east of the great mountain is the little agricultural +colony of Taveita. Ki-taveita is the language used by the Bantu half of +the population—Masai being the speech of the remainder. Ki-gweno closely +resembles Ki-čaga. It is the dialect of the Ugweno mountains to the +south of Lake ǰipé. + +Ki-kamba is spoken by the A-kamba dwelling on the upper waters of the +Tzavo river, but as this language has already been described by Krapf, +and latterly by the Rev. A. Downes-Shaw,[82] I do not think it necessary +to include it in my vocabularies, otherwise than to point out an +occasional correspondence of terms. + +For the system of orthography used in spelling these languages, I would +refer the reader to the explanation given on page 476 in connection with +the Masai vocabulary. In the phonology of these languages several facts +require to be noticed. + +_Ki-čaga_, which has evidently been an isolated tongue for several +centuries, surrounded by an ocean of Masai, has developed rather a +peculiar pronunciation. Some of the vowels, especially _u_, have +acquired a much duller and more indistinct sound than is usual among +Bantu languages, where ordinarily the vowels have a clear, open sound, +as in Italian. In Ki-čaga it is often difficult to distinguish between +_a_ and _u_ (_ü_) and _i_. In many words where _u_ is the tonic vowel in +other forms of Bantu speech, it is changed to _i_ in Ki-čaga. + +_G_ often becomes _h_, and sometimes γ. _H_ may replace several +consonants, but generally stands where a _g_ is used in other tongues. +_L_ as an initial is very frequently changed to _n_,[83] and sometimes +_r_, while _r_ is an exceeding common sound, being constantly +substituted for _t_, _d_, and _z_. Sometimes _d_ stands for _t_, and +after the former letter a “trilled” sound like an _r_ is often heard, so +that the listener hardly knows whether to write such a word as _wanda_, +“place,” _wanda_, or _wandra_. _F_ before _i_ often becomes _š_ (_ši_), +and _p_ changes to _w_. In Ki-taveita _g_ often becomes γ, but never +_h_. _D_ sometimes replaces _t_, and so does _s_ in a few words, but +otherwise _t_ holds its place and does not change to _r_ or _h_, as is +so frequently the case in Ki-čaga or Kinyika. _V_ has a tendency to +become _w_, and _p_ does not exist in the language, its place being +nearly always taken by _h_, in foreign words by _b_, and in a few cases +by _f_. Ki-gweno offers much the same features as Ki-čaga in its +phonology, except that _h_ instead of _w_ replaces _p_, and _t_ is not +so often changed to _r_. + + + A TABLE OF SUBSTANTIVAL PREFIXES IN KI-ČAGA, KI-GWENO, AND KI-TAVEITA. + + ┌──────────────────────┬──────────────────────┬───────────────────────┐ + │ KI-ČAGA. │ KI-GWENO. │ KI-TAVEITA. │ + ├──────────────────────┼──────────────────────┼───────────────────────┤ + │ Classes. │ Classes. │ Classes. │ + ├─────────┬────────────┼─────────┬────────────┼─────────┬─────────────┤ + │Singular.│ Plural. │Singular.│ Plural. │Singular.│ Plural. │ + │ 1 Personal 2 │ 1 Personal 2 │ 1 Personal 2 │ + │Mu- │Wa- │Mu- │Wa- │Mu- │Wa- │ + │M- │ │M- │ │M- │ │ + │A- │ │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────────┤ + │ 3 │ 4 │ 3 │ 4 │ 3 │ 4 │ + │Mū- │Mu- │Mū- │Mi- │Mū- │Mi- │ + │ │Mwi- │ │ │M- │ │ + │M- │M- │M- │ │ │ │ + │ │Mi- │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────────┤ + │ 5 │ 6 │ 5 │ 6 │ 5 │ 6 │ + │Ni- │Ma- │Ni- │Ma- │Ni- │Ma- │ + │Nyi- │ │ │ │ │ │ + │Li- │ │ │ │I- │ │ + │I- │ │ │ │ │ │ + │Ri- │ │Ri- │ │ǰi- │ │ + │(—) │ │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────────┤ + │ │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ 7 │ 8 │ 7 │ 8 │ 7 │ 8 │ + │Nki- │Nši- │Ki- │Fi- │Nki- │Wi- │ + │(Ngi-) │Ši- │ │ │Ki- │Vi- │ + │Ki- │Fi- │ │ │ │ │ + │Č- │ │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────────┤ + │ 9 │ 10 │ 9 │ 10 │ 9 │ 10 │ + │N- │N- (M-) │N- │N- │N- (M-) │N- (M-) │ + │(M-[84]) │Nǰ- │(M-) │(M-) │Ni- │Ni- │ + │ │6 + 10 │ │ │ │ │ + │ │Ma-n- │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────────┤ + │ 11 │ 10 │ 11 │ 6 + 11 │ 11 │ 6 + 11 │ + │Nu- │N- │Lu- │Ma-lu- │Lu- │Ma-lu- │ + │Nyu- │Nǰ- │Nu- │ │ │ 10 │ + │Nyo- │(M-) │ │ │ │N-(M-) │ + │(—) │ │ │ │ │ │ + │U- │ │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────┴────────────┼─────────┴────────────┼─────────┴─────────────┤ + │ 13 Diminutive 8 │ 13 Diminutive 8 │ 13 Diminutive 8 │ + │Ka- │Ši- │Ka- │Fi-? │Ka- │Tu- │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ 8 │ + │(Ki-?) │ │ │ │ │Vi- │ + ├─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────────┤ + │ 14 │ 6 + 14 │ 14 │ 6 + 14 │ 14 │ 6 + 14 │ + │Wu- │Ma-wu- │Wu- │Ma-wu- │Wu- │Ma-wu- │ + │U- │Ma-u- │U- │Ma-u- │ │ │ + ├─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼────────────┼─────────┼─────────────┤ + │ 15 │ 6 │ 15 │ 6 │ 15 │ ? │ + │ │Plural in │ │ │ │ │ + │ │nouns. │ │ │ │ │ + │Ku- │Ma- │Ku- │Ma- │Ku- │ │ + ├─────────┴────────────┼─────────┴────────────┼─────────┴─────────────┤ + │ 16 Locative │ 16 Locative │ 16 Locative │ + │Wa- │ │Ha- │ │Ha- │ │ + └─────────┴────────────┴─────────┴────────────┴─────────┴─────────────┘ + + + EXAMPLES OF THE ABOVE PREFIXES APPLIED TO NOUNS. + + ┌───────────────────────────┬────────────────────┬────────────────────┐ + │ KI-ČAGA. │ KI-GWENO. │ KI-TAVEITA. │ + ├───────────────────────────┼────────────────────┼────────────────────┤ + │Class 1. Mu-ndu, _a │Class Mu-ka, _a │Class Mu-ndu, _a │ + │ man_. │1. woman_. │1. man_. │ + │Sing. M-gogo, _a │Sing. M-du, _a │Sing. M-fuma, _a │ + │ girl_. │ man_. │ chief_. │ + │ A-suko, _a │ │ │ + │ devil_. │ │ │ + │Class 2. Wa-ndu, _men_.│Class Wa-ka, │Class Wa-ndu, │ + │ │2. _women_. │2. _men_. │ + │Plur. Wa-gogo, │Plur. Wa-ndu, │Plur. Wa-fuma, │ + │ _girls_. │ _men_. │ _chiefs_. │ + │ Wa-suko, │ │ │ + │ _devils_. │ │ │ + │Class 3. Mu-ri, _a │Class Mu-ri, _a │Class Mu-ti, _a │ + │ tree_. │3. tree_. │3. tree_. │ + │Sing. M-tingo, _a │Sing. │Sing. M-furo, _a │ + │ drum_. │ │ river_. │ + │Class 4. Mi-ri, │Class Mi-ri, │Class Mi-ti, │ + │ _trees_. │4. _trees_. │4. _trees_. │ + │Plur. M-tingo, │Plur. │Plur. Mi-furo, │ + │ _drums_. │ │ _rivers_. │ + │ Mwi-ša, │ │ │ + │ _thorns_. │ │ │ + │ (Sing., │ │ │ + │ Mu-ša.) │ │ │ + │Class 5. Ni-fuo, _a │Class Ni-fumo, │Class Ni-ganza, _a│ + │ bone_. │5. _spear_. │5. hand_. │ + │Sing. Nyi-ho, _a │Sing. Ri-so, _an │Sing. I-gi, _an │ + │ stone_. │ eye_. │ egg_. │ + │ Li-boro, _an │ │ ǰi-so, _an │ + │ egg_. │ │ eye_. │ + │ I-ruṅ, _a │ │ │ + │ leopard_. │ │ │ + │ Ri-na, _a │ │ │ + │ name_. │ │ │ + │Class 6. Ma-fuo, │Class Ma-fumo, │Class Ma-ganza, │ + │ _bones_. │6. _spears_. │6. _hands_. │ + │Plur. Ma-ho, │Plur. Me-so, │Plur. Ma-gi, │ + │ _stones_, &c. │ _eyes_. │ _eggs_, &c. │ + │Class 7. Nki-mnyo, _a │Class Ki-ndu, │Class Ṅki-kitu, │ + │ toe_. │7. _thing_. │7. _forest_. │ + │Sing. Ki-ndu, _a │Sing. │Sing. Ki-ndu, _a │ + │ thing_. │ │ thing_. │ + │ Č-oondi, _a │ │ │ + │ sheep_. │ │ │ + │Class 8. Nši-mnyo, │Class Fi-ndu, │Class Vi-kitu, │ + │ _toes_. │8. _things_. │8. _forests_. │ + │Plur. Ši-ndu, │Plur. │Plur. Wi-ndu, │ + │ _things_. │ │ _things_. │ + │ Ši-ondi, │ │ │ + │ _sheep_. │ │ │ + │Class 9. N-umba, _a │Class N-yumba, │Class N-goma, _a │ + │ house_. │9. _house_. │9. spirit_. │ + │Sing. M-beho, _a │Sing. M-bua, │Sing. Ni-wui, _a │ + │ wind_. │ _nose_. │ bed_. │ + │ N-dofu, _an │ M-budyi, _a │ │ + │ elephant_. │ goat_. │ │ + │Class 10. N-umba, │Class N-yumba, │Class N-goma, │ + │ _houses_. │10. _houses_. │10. _spirits_. │ + │Plur. M-beho, │Plur. M-bua, │Plur. Ni-wui, │ + │ _winds_. │ _noses_. │ _beds_. │ + │Cl. 6 + 10. Ma-n-dofu, │ │ M-budyi, │ + │ _elephants_. │ │ _goats_. │ + │Class 11. Nu-čaa. │Class Lu-čaa, │Class Lu-tiko, _a │ + │ _finger-nail_.│11. _nail of │11. zebra_. │ + │ │ finger_. │ │ + │Sing. Nyu-ruso, _a │Sing. Nu-ilimi, │Sing. Lu-hembe, _a│ + │ thread_. │ _the │ hoe_. │ + │ │ tongue_. │ │ + │ U-tufo, _the │ │ │ + │ heel_. │ │ │ + │ Ošo, _sword_. │ │ │ + │ │Cl. 6 + Ma-lu-čaa, │Cl. 6 + Ma-lu-tiko, │ + │ │11. _nails_. │11. _zebras_. │ + │ │Plur. Ma-lu-limi, │Plur. │ + │ │ _tongues_. │ │ + │Class 10. N-čaa, │ │Class M-bembe, │ + │ _nails_, &c. │ │10. _hoes_. │ + │Plur. Nǰ-ošo, │ │ │ + │ _swords_. │ │ │ + │Class 13. Ka-rika, _a │Class Ka-mwana, _a│Class Ka-handi, _a│ + │ grave_, _a │13. little │13. knife_. │ + │ little ditch_.│ child_. │ │ + │Sing. │Sing. │Sing. Ka-ṅonǰe, _a│ + │ │ │ lamb_. │ + │ │ │Class Tu-ṅonǰe, │ + │ │ │12. _lambs_. │ + │ │ │Plur. │ + │Class 8. Ši-rika, │Class Fi-mwana?, │Class Vi-handi, │ + │ _graves_. │8? _little │8. _knives_. │ + │ │ children_. │ │ + │Plur. │Plur. │Plur. │ + │Class 14. Wu-ki, │Class Wu-ra, _a │Class Wu-yaṅga, │ + │ _honey_. │14. bow_. │14. _sorcery_. │ + │Sing. U-sawi, _a │Sing. U-sawi, _a │Sing. │ + │ ghost_, │ ghost, │ │ + │ _spirit_. │ witchcraft_.│ │ + │Cl. 6 + 14. Ma-wuki, │Cl. 6 + Ma-wu-ra, │Cl. 6 + Ma-wu-yaṅga,│ + │ _honey-boxes_.│14. _bows_. │14. _sorceries_.│ + │Plur. Ma-u-sawi, │Plur. Ma-u-sawi, │ │ + │ _ghosts_. │ _ghosts_. │ │ + │Class 15. Ku-ru, _an │Class Ku-ru, │Class │ + │ ear_. │15. _ear_. │15. │ + │Sing. and Ku-aša, │Sing., & in │All infinitives of │ + │all _birth_, _to │infinitives of │verbs. │ + │infinitives. be born_. │verbs. │ │ + │Class 6. Ma-ru, _ears_.│Class Ma-ru, │ │ + │ │6. _ears_. │ │ + │Plur. │Plur. │ │ + │Class 16. Wa-ndu, _a │Class Ha-ndu, _a │Class Ha-ndu, _a │ + │ place_, │16. place_. │16. place_. │ + │ _places_. │ │ │ + │Sg. & pl. │Sg. & │Sg. & │ + │ │pl. │pl. │ + └───────────────────────────┴────────────────────┴────────────────────┘ + + + THE CONCORD IN KI-ČAGA AND KI-GWENO. + + ┌────────────────┬──────────────────────┬─────────────────────┐ + │ CLASSES. │ Sing. Plur. │ Sing. Plur. │ + ├────────────────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────┤ + │ „ │ 1. 2. │ 3. 4. │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + ├────────────────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────┤ + │ Examples of │Mu-_ndu_. Wa-_ndu_. │Mu-_ri_. Mi-_ri_. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ + │ „ │ │Mu-. Nyi-. │ + ├────────────────┼──────────────────────┼─────────────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ + │Good. │Mu-_ča_. Wa-_ča_. │Mu-_ča_. Mi-_ča_. │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │Bad. │Mu-_bi_. Wa-_bi_. │Mu-_bi_. Mi-_bi_. │ + │_Possessive_ │ │ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ + │My. │U-_ako_. W-_ako_. │Fu-_ako_. Y-_ako_. │ + │Thy. │U-_fu_. Wa-_fu_. │Fu-_fu_. Yi-_fu_. │ + │His, her, its. │U-_ake_. W-_ake_. │Fw-_ake_. I-_ake_. │ + │Our. │U-_aru_. W-_aru_. │Fw-_aru_. Y-_aru_. │ + │ │ │(Fu-_ru_.) │ + │Your. │U-_nyi_. Wa-_nyi_. │Fu-_nyi_. I-_nyi_. │ + │Their. │U-_wo_. Wa-_wo_. │Fo-_wo_. I-_wo_. │ + │_Personal_ │ │ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │A-. W-a. │Fu-. I-, Y-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ + │Him, &c. │-mu-, m-. -wa- │-u-. -i-. │ + │ │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ + │pronouns._ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │This. │U-u. Awa. │U-fu. Ii. │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │That. │U-_la_. Wa-_la_. │Fu-_la_. I-_la_. │ + │_Interrogative._│ │ │ + │Which? │U-_ku_. Wa-_ku_. │Fu-_ku_. I-_ku_. │ + │How many? │ Wa-_ṅga_. │ I-_ṅga_. │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ + │1. │U-_mo_. │Fu-_mo_. │ + │2. │ Wa-_vi_. │ I-_vi_. │ + │ │ │ │ + │3. │ Wa-_raro_. │ I-_raro_. │ + │ │ │ │ + │4, &c. │ Wa-_na_. │ I-_na_. │ + │ │ │ │ + │Many. │ W-_eṅgi_. │ _Iṅgi._ │ + │ │ (Wa-_iṅgi._)│ │ + └────────────────┴──────────────────────┴─────────────────────┘ + + ┌────────────────┬────────────────────┬────────────────────┐ + │ CLASSES. │ Sing. Plur. │ Sing. Plur. │ + ├────────────────┼────────────────────┼────────────────────┤ + │ „ │ 5. 6. │ 7. 8. │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + ├────────────────┼────────────────────┼────────────────────┤ + │ Examples of │Ni-_fuo_. Ma-_fuo_. │Ki-_ndu_. Ši-ndu. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ + │ „ │ Nki-. │Fi-. │ + ├────────────────┼────────────────────┼────────────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ + │Good. │Li-_ča_. Ma-_ča_. │Ki-_ča_. Ši-ča. │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │Bad. │Li-_bi_. Ma-_bi_. │Ki-_bi_. Ši-bi. │ + │_Possessive_ │ │ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ + │My. │Ly-_ako_. G-_ako_. │ǧ-ako. Š-_ako_. │ + │Thy. │Li-_fu_. Ga-_fu_. │Ki-_fu_. Ši-_fu_. │ + │His, her, its. │Ly-_ake_. G-_ake_. │Č-_ake_. Š-_ake_. │ + │Our. │Ly-_aru_. G-_aru_. │Č-_aru_. Š-_aru_. │ + │ │ │ │ + │Your. │Li-_nyi_. Ga-_nyo_. │Ki-_nyi_. Ši-_nyi_. │ + │Their. │Li-_wo_. Ga-_wo_. │Ki-_wo_. Ši-_wo_. │ + │_Personal_ │ │ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │Li-, ly-. Ga-, G-. │Ki-, Č-. Ši-, Fi-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ + │Him, &c. │-li-, -ga-. │-ki-. -fi-. │ + │ │-ly-. │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ + │pronouns._ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │This. │Ili. Aha or │Iki. Iši, Ifi. │ + │ │ aga. │ │ + │ │ │ │ + │That. │Li-_la_. Ga-_la_. │Ki-_la_. Ši-_la_, │ + │_Interrogative._│ │ Fi-_la_. │ + │Which? │Li-_ku_. Ga-_ku_. │Ki-_ku_. Fi-_ku_. │ + │How many? │ Ha-_ṅga_. │ Ši-_ṅga_. │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ + │1. │Li-_mo_. │Ki-_mo_. │ + │2. │ Ga-_wi_. │ Ši-_vi_. │ + │ │ │ │ + │3. │ Ga-_raro_.│ Fi-_raro_.│ + │ │ │ Ši-_raro_.│ + │4, &c. │ n-_na_. │ Fi-_na_. │ + │ │ │ Ši-_na_. │ + │Many. │ _eṅgi._ │ Si-_ṅai_. │ + │ │ │ │ + └────────────────┴────────────────────┴────────────────────┘ + + ┌────────────────┬─────────────────────┬─────────┬──────────┬─────────┐ + │ CLASSES. │ Sing. Plur. │ Sing. │ Sing. │ Sing. │ + ├────────────────┼─────────────────────┼─────────┼──────────┼─────────┤ + │ „ │ 9. 10. │11, takes│13, takes │14, takes│ + │ │ │ 10 as │8 as plur.│ 6 as │ + │ │ │ plur. │ │ plur. │ + ├────────────────┼─────────────────────┼─────────┼──────────┼─────────┤ + │ Examples of │N-_umba_. N-_umba_. │Nu-_čaa_.│Ka-_rika_.│Wu-_ki_. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ │ │ + │ „ │ │ │ │ │ + ├────────────────┼─────────────────────┼─────────┼──────────┼─────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ │ │ + │Good. │I-_ča_. Zi-_ča_. │Lu-_ča_. │Ka-_ča_. │U-_ča_. │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │Bad. │I-_bi_. Mȯi. │Lu-_bi_. │Ka-_bi_. │U-_bi_. │ + │_Possessive_ │ │ │ │ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ │ │ + │My. │Y-_ako_. Z-_ako_. │L-_ako_. │K-_ako_. │W-_ako_. │ + │Thy. │I-_fu_. Zi-_fu_. │Lu-_fu_. │Ka-_fu_. │U-_fu_. │ + │His, her, its. │Y-_ake_. Z-_ake_. │L-_ake_. │K-_ake_. │W-_ake_. │ + │Our. │Y-_aru_. Z-_aru_. │L-_aru_. │K-_aru_. │W-_aru_. │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │Your. │I-_nyi_. Zi-_nyi_. │Lu-_nyi_.│Ka-_nyi_. │U-_nyi_. │ + │Their. │I-_wo_. Zi-_wo_. │Lu-_wo_. │Ka-_wo_. │U-_wo_. │ + │_Personal_ │ │ │ │ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │I-, Y-. Tzi-, Z-. │Lu-, L-. │Ka-, K-. │Wu-, W-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ │ │ + │Him, &c. │-i-. -zi-. │-lu-. │-ka-. │-u-. │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ │ │ + │pronouns._ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │This. │Ii. Izi. │Ulu. │Aka. │Uu. │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │That. │I-_la_. Zi-_la_. │Lu-_la_. │Ka-_la_. │U-_la_. │ + │_Interrogative._│ │ │ │ │ + │Which? │I-_ku_. Zi-_ku_. │Lu-_ku_. │Ka-_ku_. │U-_ku_. │ + │How many? │ Zi-_ṅga_-. │ │ │ │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ │ │ + │1. │I-_mo_. │Lu-_mo_. │Ka-_mo_. │U-_mo_. │ + │2. │ Tzi-_wi_. │ │ │ │ + │ │ϑi-vi. │ │ │ │ + │3. │ Tzi-_raro_.│ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │4, &c. │ Tzi-_na_. │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │Many. │ Ny-_iṅgi_. │ │ │ │ + │ │ Nǰ-_iṅgi_. │ │ │ │ + └────────────────┴─────────────────────┴─────────┴──────────┴─────────┘ + + ┌────────────────┬─────────┬─────────┬────────────────────┐ + │ CLASSES. │ Sing. │ Sing. │ │ + ├────────────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────────────┤ + │ „ │15, takes│ 16. │ „ │ + │ │ 6 as │ │ │ + │ │ plur. │ │ │ + ├────────────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────────────┤ + │ Examples of │Ku-_du_. │Wa-_nda_.│ „ │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ │ + │ „ │ │ │ „ │ + ├────────────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ │ + │Good. │Ku-_ča_. │Wa-_ča_. │Ki-gweno differs in │ + │ │ │ │one or two points │ + │ │ │ │from Ki-čaga in its │ + │ │ │ │concords. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │Thus the concord for│ + │ │ │ │the 6th class (Ma-) │ + │ │ │ │is A- or Nya-, and │ + │ │ │ │for the 8th always │ + │ │ │ │Fi-. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │In the 14th class it│ + │ │ │ │is always Wu-, and │ + │ │ │ │in the 16th class │ + │ │ │ │Ha- instead of Wa-. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │The nouns, pronouns,│ + │ │ │ │&c., given as │ + │ │ │ │examples of the │ + │ │ │ │concord are in │ + │ │ │ │Ki-čaga. They differ│ + │ │ │ │slightly from │ + │ │ │ │Ki-gweno. │ + │Bad. │Ku-_bi_. │Wa-_bi_. │ „ │ + │_Possessive_ │ │ │ „ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ „ │ + │My. │Kw-_ako_.│Wa-_ako_.│ „ │ + │Thy. │Ku-_fu_. │Wa-_fu_. │ „ │ + │His, her, its. │Kw-_ake_.│W-_ake_. │ „ │ + │Our. │Kw-_aru_.│W-_aru_. │ „ │ + │ │ │ │ „ │ + │Your. │Ku-_nyi_.│Wa-_nyi_.│ „ │ + │Their. │Ku-_wo_. │Wa-_wo_. │ „ │ + │_Personal_ │ │ │ „ │ + │_pronouns._ │ │ │ „ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ „ │ + │He, it, &c. │Ku-Kw-. │Wa-. │ „ │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ „ │ + │Him, &c. │-ku-. │-wa-. │ „ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ „ │ + │pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ „ │ + │This. │Uku. │Awa. │ „ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ „ │ + │That. │Ku-_la_. │Wa-_la_. │ „ │ + │_Interrogative._│ │ │ „ │ + │Which? │Ku-_ku_. │Wa-_ku_. │ „ │ + │How many? │ │ │ „ │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ „ │ + │1. │Ku-_mo_. │Wa-_mo_. │ „ │ + │2. │ │ │ „ │ + │ │ │ │ „ │ + │3. │ │ │ „ │ + │ │ │ │ „ │ + │4, &c. │ │ │ „ │ + │ │ │ │ „ │ + │Many. │ │ │ „ │ + │ │ │ │ „ │ + └────────────────┴─────────┴─────────┴────────────────────┘ + + + THE CONCORD IN KI-TAVEITA. + + ┌─────────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┐ + │CLASSES. │ Sing. │ Plur. │ Sing. │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ „ │ 1. │ 2. │ 3. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ Examples of │ Mu-_ndu_. │ Wa-_ndu_. │ Mu-_ti_. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ │ + │Good. │Mu-_wedi_. │Wa-_wedi_. │Mu-_wedi_. │ + │Bad. │Mu-_wiwi_. │Wa-_wiwi_. │Mu-_wiwi_. │ + │_Possessive │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │My. │U-_aṅgu_. │W-_aṅgu_. │U-_aṅgu_. │ + │Thy. │U-_ako_. │W-_ako_. │U-_ako_. │ + │His, her, its. │U-_akwe_. │W-_akwe_. │U-_akwe_. │ + │Our. │U-_etu_. │W-_etu_. │U-_etu_. │ + │Your. │U-_enu_. │W-_enu_. │U-_enu_. │ + │Their. │U-_awo_. │W-_awo_. │U-_awo_. │ + │_Personal │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │A-. │Wa-. │U-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ │ + │Him, it, &c. │-mu-, -m-, │ │-u-. │ + │ │-wa-. │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │This. │_Ha_-u. │_Ha_-wa. │_Ha_-u. │ + │That. │_Ha_-u-_la_. │_Ha_-wa-_la_. │_Ha_-u-_la_. │ + │_Interrogative._ │ │ │ │ + │Which? │Nu-_hi_. │Wa-_hi_. │Nu-_hi_. │ + │How many? │ │A-wo. │ │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ │ + │1. │U-_muezo_. │ │U-_muezo_. │ + │2. │ │W-_ere_. │ │ + │3. │ │Wa-_tatu_. │ │ + │4. &c. │ │Wa-_nne_. │ │ + │Many. │ │W-_eṅgi_. │ │ + └─────────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┘ + + ┌─────────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┐ + │CLASSES. │ Plur. │ Sing. │ Plur. │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ „ │ 4. │ 5. │ 6. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ Examples of │ Mi-_ti_. │ Ni-_ganza_. │ Ma-_ganza_. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ │ + │Good. │Wa-_wedi_. │Li-_wedi_. │Ma-_wedi_. │ + │Bad. │Mi-_wiwi_. │Li-_wiwi_. │Ma-_wiwi_. │ + │_Possessive │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │My. │Y-_aṅgu_. │Ly-_aṅgu_. │-_aṅgu_. │ + │Thy. │Y-_ako_. │Ly-_ako_. │-_ako_, │ + │His, her, its. │Y-_akwe_. │Ly-_akwe_. │-_akwe_. │ + │Our. │Y-_etu_. │Ly-_etu_. │-_etu_. │ + │Your. │Y-_enu_. │Ly-_enu_. │-_enu_. │ + │Their. │W-_awo_. │Ly-_awo_. │-_awo_. │ + │_Personal │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │I-, Y-. │Li-, ly-. │A-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ │ + │Him, it, &c. │-i-, -y-. │-li-. │-a-, -ma-. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │This. │_Ha_-yi. │_Ha_-ili. │_Ha_-ma-. │ + │That. │_Ha_-yi-_la_. │_Ha_-ili-_la_.│_Ha_-ma-_la_. │ + │_Interrogative._ │ │ │ │ + │Which? │Ni-_hi_. │Li-_hi_. │A-_hi_. │ + │How many? │Iyo. │ │Amo. │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ │ + │1. │ │li-_muezo_. │i-_muezo_. │ + │2. │Y-_ere_. │ │M-_ere_. │ + │3. │I-_tatu_. │ │Ma-_tatu_. │ + │4. &c. │I-_nne_. │ │Ma-_nne_. │ + │Many. │I-_ṅgi_. │ │M-_eṅgi_. │ + └─────────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┘ + + ┌─────────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┐ + │CLASSES. │ Sing. │ Plur. │ Sing. │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ „ │ 7. │ 8. │ 9. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ Examples of │ Ki-_ndu_. │ Wi-_ndu_. │ Ṅ-_goma_. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ │ + │Good. │Ki-_wedi_. │Vi-_wedi_. │_Wedi._ │ + │Bad. │Ki-_wiwi_. │Vi-_wiwi_. │_Wiwi._ │ + │_Possessive │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │My. │Ki-_aṅgu_. │Vy-_aṅgu_. │Y-_aṅgu_. │ + │Thy. │Ki-_ako_. │Vy-_ako_. │Y-_ako_. │ + │His, her, its. │Ki-_akwe_. │Vy-_akwe_. │Y-_akwe_. │ + │Our. │Ki-_etu_. │Vy-_etu_. │Y-_etu_. │ + │Your. │Ki-_enu_. │Vy-_enu_. │Y-_enu_. │ + │Their. │Ki-_awo_. │Vy-_awo_. │Y-_awo_. │ + │_Personal │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │Ki-, Či-. │Vi-, Vy-. │I-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ │ + │Him, it, &c. │-ki-. │-vi-. │-i-. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │-či-. │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │This. │_Ha_-iki. │_Ha_-iwi. │_Ha_-i. │ + │That. │_Ha_-iki-_la_.│_Ha_-iwi-_la_.│_Ha_-i-_la_. │ + │_Interrogative._ │ │ │ │ + │Which? │Ki-_hi_. │Vi-_hi_. │I-_hi_. │ + │How many? │ │Iwyo. │ │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ │ + │1. │Ki-_muezo_. │ │I-_muezo_. │ + │2. │ │Vi-_wi_. │ │ + │3. │ │Vi-_tatu_. │ │ + │4. &c. │ │Vi-_nne_. │ │ + │Many. │ │V-_iṅgi_. │ │ + └─────────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┘ + + ┌─────────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┐ + │CLASSES. │ Plur. │ Sing. │ Plur. │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ „ │ 10. │ 11, │ 12. │ + │ │ │ takes 6 & 10 │ Plur to 13. │ + │ │ │ as plur. │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ Examples of │ Ṅ-_goma_. │ Lu-_tiko_. │ Tu-_mwana_. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ │ + │Good. │M-_bedi_. │Lu-_wedi_. │Tu-_wedi_. │ + │Bad. │M-_biwi_. │Lu-_wiwi_. │Tu-_wiwi_. │ + │_Possessive │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │My. │ǰ-_aṅgu_. │Lu-_aṅgu_. │Tw-_aṅgu_. │ + │Thy. │ǰ-_ako_. │Lu-_ako_. │Tw-_ako_. │ + │His, her, its. │ǰ-_akwe_. │Lu-_akwe_. │Tw-_akwe_. │ + │Our. │ǰ-_etu_. │Lu-_etu_. │Tw-_etu_. │ + │Your. │ǰ-_enu_. │Lu-_enu_. │Tw-_enu_. │ + │Their. │ǰ-_awo_. │Lu-_awo_. │Tw-_awo_. │ + │_Personal │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │ǰ, or Zi-. │Lu-. │Tu-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ │ + │Him, it, &c. │-ǰ- or -Zi. │-lu-. │-tu-. │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ + │This. │_Ha_-iǰi. │_Ha_-ulu. │_Ha_-utu. │ + │That. │_Ha_-iǰi-_la_.│_Ha_-ulu-_la_.│_Ha_-utu-_la_.│ + │_Interrogative._ │ │ │ │ + │Which? │ǰi-_hi_. │Lu-_hi_. │Tu-_hi_. │ + │How many? │Iǰo. │ │Utwo. │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ │ + │1. │ │Lu-_muezo_. │ │ + │2. │ǰi-_wi_. │ │Tw-_ere_. │ + │3. │N-_datu_. │ │Tu-_tatu_. │ + │4. &c. │ǰi-_nne_. │ │Tu-_nne_. │ + │Many. │ │ │ │ + └─────────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┘ + + ┌─────────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┬──────────────┐ + │CLASSES. │ Sing. │ Sing. │ Sing. │ Sg. & P. │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ „ │ 13, │ 14, │ 15. │ 16. │ + │ │ takes 12 & 8 │ takes 6 as │ │ │ + │ │ as plur. │ plur. │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │ Examples of │ Ka-_handi_. │ Wu-_ta_. │ Ku-_fwa_. │ Ha-_ndu_. │ + │ Nouns. │ │ │ │ │ + ├─────────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┼──────────────┤ + │_Adjectives._ │ │ │ │ │ + │Good. │Ka-_wedi_. │U-_wedi_. │Ku-_wedi_. │Ha-_wedi_. │ + │Bad. │Ka-_wiwi_. │U-_wiwi_. │Ku-_wiwi_. │Ha-_wiwi_. │ + │_Possessive │ │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ │ + │My. │K-_aṅgu_. │U-_aṅgu_. │Kw-_aṅgu_. │H-_aṅgu_. │ + │Thy. │K-_ako_. │U-_ako_. │Kw-_ako_. │H-_ako_. │ + │His, her, its. │K-_akwe_. │U-_akwe_. │Kw-_akwe_. │H-_akwe_. │ + │Our. │K-_etu_. │U-_etu_. │Kw-_etu_. │H-_etu_. │ + │Your. │K-_enu_. │U-_enu_. │Kw-_enu_. │H-_enu_. │ + │Their. │K-_awo_. │U-_awo_. │Kw-_awo_. │H-_awo_. │ + │_Personal │ │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ │ + │_Nom._: │ │ │ │ │ + │He, it, &c. │Ka-. │Wu-. │Ku-. │Ha-. │ + │_Acc._: │ │ │ │ │ + │Him, it, &c. │-ka-. │-wu-. │-ku-. │-ha-. │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │ │ │ │ │ │ + │_Demonstrative │ │ │ │ │ + │ pronouns._ │ │ │ │ │ + │This. │_Ha_-ka-. │_Ha_-wu. │_Ha_-uku. │Aha. │ + │That. │_Ha_-ka-_la_. │_Ha_-wu-_la_. │_Ha_-uku-_la_.│Aha-_la_. │ + │_Interrogative._ │ │ │ │ │ + │Which? │Ka-_hi_. │U-_hi_. │Ku-_hi_. │Ha-_hi_. │ + │How many? │ │ │ │ │ + │_Numerals._ │ │ │ │ │ + │1. │Ka-_muezo_. │U-_muezo_. │Ku-_muezo_. │Ha-_muezo_. │ + │2. │ │ │ │Ha-_re_. │ + │3. │ │ │ │Ha-_tatu_. │ + │4. &c. │ │ │ │Ha-_nne_. │ + │Many. │ │ │ │H-_engi_. │ + └─────────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┴──────────────┘ + + + + + APPENDIX I. + MASAI—COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY. + + + NOUNS. + + (The particle following the noun is the article, masculine, feminine, or + neuter.) + + ─────────────────┬───────────────────────────────────┬───────────────── + English. │ Masai. │Latuka, Bari,[85] + │ │ &c. + ─────────────────┼───────────────────────────────────┼───────────────── + Air │Giǰabe, eṅ │ + Animal │ǰaṅito, ol │Lat., Ečoṅ + │ │ (Game). + Ant │Oisusu, ol; pl. Oisusun │ + Antelope │Guruk, ol │ + │Galau, eṅ; pl. Galaun │ + Anus │Kurum, ol │ + │Duli, ol │ + Ape (baboon) │Goroi, ol; pl. Goroin │ + Arm (upper) │Beraṅgas, em │ + (lower) │Daṅgule, en │ + Arrow │Bai, em; pl. Ba │ + Ass │Sigiria, os; pl. -n │Lat., Segira, os. + Axe │Dolu, en; pl. -an │Lat., Edzolu. + Back │Gorioṅ, en │Lat., Orioṅ. + Banana │ │ + (fruit) │Marigo, ôl; pl. -n │ + (tree) │Musalala, ôl; pl. -n │ + Basket │Dam, en; pl. -i │ + Bat │ │Lat., Neina. + Beads │Sirírim, os; pl. -i │ + Beard │Munyei, ôl; pl. -n │Bari, Nyeke + Bed │Ruat, er; pl. -an │ + │ǰoni, ôl; pl. -n. │ + Bee │Ótoro, ôl │Lat., Avatoro. + Bell │Piriri, ôl; pl. -n │ + Bellows │Gunei, eṅ; pl. -n │ + Belly │Gošóke, eṅ; pl. Oišua │ + Bird │Kweni, eṅ │Bari, Kwenti. + Blood │Sérige, os │ + Body │Sesin, os │ + Bone │Oito, ôl; pl. Oik │Bari, -yutyo. + │Lat., Ogoti. │ + Bottom │Gumodo, en; pl. -n │ + Bow │Borowai, em │ + Boy │Aion, ôl; pl. Aiok │ + Brains │Isisi, eṅg │ + Brass │Suyai, os │ + Breast (male) │Gô, ôl; pl. Gon │ + (female) │Gina, ôl; pl. Gi │ + Brother │Alaše, ôl; pl. -n │Bari, -načer. + (friend!) │Oito, ôl; pl. Oie │ + Buffalo │Ôsowan, ôl; pl. -i │Lat., As-suwani. + Butter │Orṅo, eṅ │ + Buttocks │Kurumi, el │ + Cattle │Kišu, eṅ │Bari, Kiču, + │ │ Kičuk. + Chair │Origa, ôl; pl. -n │ + Cheek │Dakula, en │ + Chief │Eibon, ôl,; pl. -ok │ + │Kiboroni, ôl; pl. Kiborok │ + Child │Gerai, eṅ; pl. Gera │ + Claw │Oibôso, ôl; pl. -k │ + Cloth │Naṅga, e; pl. -n │ + Cloud │Būrwo, em; pl. -n │Lat., Avuru = + │ │ smoke. + Cock │Motonyi, ôl, ôlôle (the male fowl) │ + Cold │Giǰabe, en (wind) │ + Copper │Suyāi, os │Lat., Aǰel. + Corpse │Meneṅgani, ôl (male); em (female) │ + Country (tribal │Manyara, ôl; pl. -n │ + district) │ │ + (land) │Kob, eṅ; pl. -an │ + Cow │Kiteṅ, eṅ; pl. Kišu │Lat., Ne-iteṅ. + │ │Bari, Kiteṅ; pl. + │ │ Kiču. + (heifer) │Dawo, en; pl. -n. (Kiteṅ with the │Šiluk } Diaṅ. + │ masc. article ôl means a bullock,│ + │ a gelded ox.) │ + │ „ │Šuli } Diaṅ. + │ „ │Lur } Diaṅ. + │ „ │Kavirondo } Diaṅ. + │ │Diṅka, Wen. + │ │γwen. + Crocodile │Kinyaṅ, ôl │Lat., Enya. + │ │Bari, Kinyoṅ. + │ │Šuli, Nyaṅ. + │ │Lur, Niaṅ. + Day (-light) │Barkiǰi, em │Lat., Na-loṅ. + │ │Bari, Koloṅ. + (from sunrise │Gôloṅ, eṅ; pl. -i │Diṅka, Akol. + to sunset) │ │ + Death │Ôtoa, ôl │Bari, Atoan. + Dog │Dia, ôl; pl. Diain │Lat., Eṅ-gōk. + │ │Bari, Dioṅ. + │ │Diṅka, ǰio. + │ │Šuli, Gwôk. + Donkey │Sigiria, os; pl. -n │Lat., Os-segira. + Door │Kutuk-aǰi, eṅ; pl. -n (lit. mouth │ + │of house) │ + Dream (_vide │ │ + verb_) │ │ + Drum │Dam, ôl; pl. -i │ + │Siṅgôdio, os; pl. -n │ + Dwarf │Didikimo, en (fem. diminutive) │ + Eagle │Kilit, ôl; pl. Kilili │ + Ear │Giok, eṅ; pl. Gia │Lat., Nē-iok. + │ │Diṅka, Yig. + │ │Bari, Čwet. + │ │Šuli, Yit. + Egg │Mosor, ôl │Lat., Et-telio. + │Orušia, eṅ │ + │Otorui, em (ostrich egg?) │ + Elbow │Dakule, en; pl. -n │Lat., Oggole. + Elephant │Dome, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Tome. + │ │Bari, Tome. + Excrement │Gik, eṅ │ + Eye │Goṅ, eṅ; pl. Goniek │Lat., Onyet. + │ │Bari, Konie. + │ │Šiluk, Waṅ. + │ │Diṅka, Nyen. + Face │Gomon, eṅ; pl. -i │Bari, Komon. + Fat │Sūnia, os │ + │Elata (grease, oil) │Bari, Welet. + Father (genitor) │Oiu, ôl │Lat., Mon. + (head of │Mēnye, ôl │Bari, Monye. + household) │ │ + (term of │Papa, ôl; pl. -n │Baba. + address) │ │ + Feather │Gobiro, ôl (large) │Bari, Kofiret. + │„ eṅ (small) │ + Finger │Kimoǰino, ôl; pl. Kimoǰik │ + Fire │Gima, eṅ; pl. Giman │Lat., Ne-ima. + │ │Bari, Kiman. + │ │Diṅka, Maǰ. + │ │Šuli, Maǰ. + Fish │Síṅgeri, os; pl. -n │ + Food │Dā, en │ + Fool │Dūrwei, ôl; pl. Durwan │ + Foot │Geǰu, eṅ; pl. Geǰek │ + (lower part) │Oilēle, ol; pl. -k │ + (sole) │Dap, en │Lat., At-tiva. + Foreigner │Omoni, ôl (lit. beggar) │ + Forest │Dim, en │Bari, Mudim. + Fowl │Guku, eṅ │from Ṅguku, a + │ │ universal + │ │Bantu word. + │Motonyi, ôl │(Bari, Čukoro; + │ │ Lat., + │ │Nogoro, logoro.) + Friend │Žore, ôl; pl. -n │ + │Dōruet, ôl; pl. -a │ + Frog │Dua, en │Bari, Doke. + Fruit │Gululwi, eṅ │Bari, Konie. + Genitor │Oiu, ôl (masc.) │ + │Naiu, e (fem.) (from the root -iu-)│ + Giraffe │Maūti, ôl │ + Girl │Dito, en; pl. Doiak │Lat., Odueti. + │Siaṅgiki, es; pl. -n │ + Goat │Dare, en (common plur.) │ + │Kine, ôl (he-goat); pl. Kineǰi. │Lat., Ne-ini. + │Kine, eṅ (female); pl. Kineǰin │ + God │Gai, eṅ (fem., also rain, sky, &c.)│ + Grass │Kuǰita, ôl │ + Grave │Gurare, eṅ │ + │Gumoto, eṅ │Lat., Ume, el. + Gum of teeth │Irt, eṅ. │ + Gun │Diol, en; pl. -n │ + Hair (of the │Babit, ôl │ + head) │ │ + (body) │Bon, em │ + Hand │Gaina, eṅ; pl. Gaik. │Lat., Na-gas. + │ │Bari, Kanin. + │ │Diṅka, Čien. + │ │Šiluk, Čiṅga. + Hare │Kitoǰo, ôl │Lat., Itoǰo. + Head │Lugunia, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Na-gu. + │ │Bari, Kwe. + Heart │Dau, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Et-taǰi. + │ │Bari, Tewili. + Heel │Dudunio, en; pl. -n │ + Hill │Eibaṅgi, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Ebak. + Hippopotamus │Makau, ôl; pl. -n │ + Hoe │ǰerembe, en │A Bantu word. + Honey │Neišo, e │Lat., Essio. + Horn │Segegwa, os; pl. -n │ + House │Gaji, eṅ; pl. Gaǰiǰik │Lat., N-aǰi. + │ │Bari, Kadi. + │ │Šuli, Āt. + Hunger │Ameo, ôl │Lat., Idua. + │ │Bari, Magor. + Husband │Môruo, ôl; pl. Môruak │ + Hyena (striped) │Otonu, ôl; pl. Otonak │ + (spotted) │Nyoǰine, ôl; pl. Nyoǰinak │ + Insect │Kimamani, ôl; pl. -n │ + Iron │Seṅeṅge, os │ + Island │Abori, ôl │Lat. N-abful. + Knee │Guguṅ, eṅ; pl. Guṅ │Lat., Og-guṅi. + │ │Bari, Kuṅo. + Knife │Alem, ôl; pl. -an │Lat., Ademi. + │ │Bari, Wale. + │ │Šuli, Pala. + Language (_vide_ │ │ + mouth) │ │ + Leg │Geǰu, eṅ; pl. Geǰek │Lat., N-eiǰu. + Leopard │Uwaru, ôl; pl. Uwarak │Lat., Auvuru. + │ │Bari, Gwaron + │ │ (hyena). + Lion │Nyatun, ôl │ + Locust │Mati, ôl │ + Magic │Setan, es │ + Maize │Bayek, ôl │ + Man │Duṅani, ol; pl. Duṅana │Lat., E-duṅgoni, + │ │ a + │ │craftsman. + Market │Siṅgira, os; pl. -n │ + Meat │Giriṅgo, eṅ. │Lat., Eriṅgo + │ │Lur and Šuli, + │ │ Riṅgo. + │ │Bari, Kore. + Milk │Kule │Lat., Nā-li. + │ │Bari, Le. + Monkey │Boroši, ol; pl. -n │ + Moon and │Laba, ol; pl. -n │Lat., Aǰafa. + month │ │Bari, Yapa. + │ │Diṅka, Pei. + Morning │Tadekenia (East) │ + Mother (personal)│Yeyo │Lat., Eaṅ. + „ │ │Bari, Yaṅo. + (general) │Noto, en; pl. Noton │Bari, Nwote. + (as mistress) │Nain, en │ + Mountain │Doinyo, ôl; pl. Doinyak or Doinyon │Lat., Adoṅge, + │ │ Donye. + Mouth │Gutuk, eṅ; pl. Gutuāk │Lat., Edok. + (language, │ │Bari, Kotok. + door, &c.) │ │ + „ │ │Diṅka, Vtok. + │ │Šiluk } Dŏga. + │ │Suli } Dŏga. + │ │Lur } Dŏga. + Nail (finger and │Oibôso, ôl; pl. Oibôsok │Lat., Aviela. + toe) │ │ + Name │Garna, eṅ; pl. -n │Lat., Avure. + │ │Bari, Karin. + │ │Diṅka, Rin. + Navel │Surôrwa, os; pl. -n │ + Neck │Murd, em; pl. -on │Lat., Am-morit. + │ │Bari, Murut. + Needle │Ditu, ôl; pl. -n │ + Night │Kewarie (darkness) │Bari, Kwaje. + „ fall │Dara, en │Lat., At-tari. + Nose │Gume, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Ne-imo. + │„ eṅ (diminutive) │Bari, Kume. + │ │Diṅka, Ūm. + │ │Šuli } Ūme. + │ │Lur } Ūme. + Ox │Moṅgi, ôl; pl. Kiteṅi │ + Peace │Serre, es │ + │Sôtwa, os │ + Penis │ǰabo, en; pl. ǰabok (the │ + │“wrapped-up,” “concealed,” is the │ + │meaning of this word, although, as │ + │a matter of fact, the Masai men │ + │are the most shamelessly indecent │ + │in the world) │ + Pig │Bitir, ôl; pl. -on │Lat., Abūtir. + │ │Bari, Uri. + Pipe │Modi, ôl; pl. -o │ + Place │Weiǰi, e; pl. -tin │ + Plantation │Guruma, eṅ; pl. -ni │ + Pot │Modi, em; pl. -o │ + Prostitute │Siǰ or Sid’, es │ + Rain │Gai, eṅ (Eṅgai, in one word) │Lat., Ag-gede. + Rat (burrowing) │Uda, eṅg; pl. -n │ + (house) │Deroni, en; pl. Dero │ + Rhinoceros │Mūnyi, ôl │Lat., Emoy’. + │ │Bari, Mui. + River │Gare, eṅ (water) │Lat., Ari. + │ │Bari, Kare. + │Gwasu, ôl │ + │Mwipo, ol; pl. -n │ + │Geǰu, ôl (small stream) │ + │„ eṅ (brook) │ + Road │Goitoi, eṅ; pl. -n. │ + Roof │Geberi, eṅ │ + Saliva │Gāmulak, eṅ │Lat., Amēla. + │ │Bari, Kamolak. + Salt │Munian, em │A Bantu word. + Sand │Gǘlukok, eṅ; pl. Gǘlukwa │ + Shadow │Oip, ôl; pl. -i │ + Sheep │Ger, ôl, eṅ; pl. Gera │Lat., Na-ker + │ │ (fem.). + Shield │Oṅo, ôl; pl. -n │ + Shoe (leathern │Namka, en; pl. -n │ + sandal) │ │ + Sickness │Ea, eṅg (from ē, to die) │ + Sister ắ │Ganä́ši, eṅ; pl. Ganä́šan │Bari, Kiačer. + │Daṅgile, eṅ (a term of salutation) │ + Skin (hide) │ǰôni, ôl; pl. ǰonito │Lat., Na-gon + │ │ (fem.). + Sky │Gadamba, eṅ │ + Slave │Siṅga, os; pl. -n │ + Sleep │ǰô, en (Dyo) │Lat., Aǰôto. + │ │Bari, Doto. + │ │Šuli, Nenǰo. + Small-pox │Eṅg-ēa naibor (the white sickness) │Lat., Eibora. + Smoke │Būrwo, em │Lat., Av-vuru. + │ │Bari, Kofuret, + │ │ Kopuröt. + Snake │Asurai, ôl; pl. Asuran │(Lat. Am-monu. + │ │ Bari, Munu.) + Snow │Seret, es │ + Snuff │Kombau, ôl │ + │Gišuki, eṅ │ + Son │Aioni, Aiu, ôl or eṅg; pl. Aiok │ + Song │Siṅgolio, os; pl. -n │ + Soul │Dau, ôl │ + Spear │Bere, em; pl. -n │Lat., Aveira. + │ │Bari, Gor. + Speech │Rorei, or │ + │Omon, el (words) │ + Spine │Giǰi, eṅ │ + Spinster │Gapiak, eṅ │ + Star │Okirāi, ôl; pl. Ôkir │ + Stick │Sebua, os │ + Stomach │Ošoke, eṅ; pl. Ošoa │Lat., Noke. + Stone │Soit, os; pl. -on │(Lat., Amoru. + │ │ Bari, Murufit.) + String │Ene, eṅg │ + Sun │Oloṅ, eṅg, or Goloṅ, eṅ │Lat., Na-loṅ + │ │ (fem.). + │ │Bari, Koloṅ. + │ │Diṅka, Akol. + │ │Šuli, Ceṅ. + Tail │Kidôṅoi, ôl; pl. Kidoṅo │ + Tale │Bai, ôl │ + Tear │Giǰo, ôl; pl. -n │ + │Širi, eš │ + Testicles │Derege, ôl; pl. -n │ + Thief │Aburon, ôl; pl. Aburok │ + Thing │Doki, en; pl. Dokitin │ + Thorn │Gikwa, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Ikoa. + │ │Bari, Kikwoti. + Throat │Murut, em │Bari, Murut. + │Gos, ôl │Yoṅin. + Thunder │Gurugur, eṅ │ + │Dara, en │Lat., Ed-diri. + Tobacco │Kumbau, ol │(from the word + │ │ Tumbako, + │ │ through the + │ │ corrupt form + │ │ Kumbatu.) + Toe (_vide_ │Kimoǰino, ôl │Lat., Abuge. + finger) │ │ + Tongue │Geǰep, ôl; pl. -a │Lat., Aṅgaǰi. + │ │Bari, Nedeb. + │ │Diṅka, Lyeb. + │ │Šuli, Lieva. + │ │Lur, Levve. + Tooth │Ala, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Ala. + │ │Bari, Kele. + │ │Šuli, Lāk. + │ │Diṅka, Lēk. + Town │Gaṅ, eṅ; pl. Gaṅite │ + │Maniara, ôl; pl -n │ + Tree │ǰáni, ôl, en; pl. ǰanito │Lat., At-tana. + │ǰata, en; pl. Gek │Šuli, ǰat. + │Dimi, en (a number of trees, │Bari, Kadini. + │forest) │Diṅka, Tim. + Tribe (_vide_ │Kob, eṅ; Gaṅ, en │ + town and │ │ + country) │ │ + Truth │Edede │ + Twins │Mao, el │ + Udder │Nyawo, en; pl. -n │Lat., Anyava. + │ │Bari, Panyak. + Ulcer │Dodudai, ôl │ + Uncle │Abulai, ôl │ + Urine │Gūlak, eṅ │Bari, Kūla. + │ │Lat., Agola. + Vagina │Gwali, eṅg │ + │Boliš, em; pl. -an (the female │ + │pudenda) │ + Village │Ganāsa, eṅ; pl. -n (a small group │ + │of houses) │ + Vulture │Modôni, e │ + War │ǰore, en; pl. ǰoriak │Lat., Avere. + │ │Bari, Ko. + Water │Gare, eṅ │Lat., Nare. + │ │Bari, Kari + │ │ (river). + Wax │Došo, en │ + Way │Goidoi, eṅ │ + Well │Duroto, ôl (also pond, lake) │ + Wife │Siaṅgiki, es; pl. -n │ + Wilderness │Sero, ôs │ + Wind │Giǰabe, eṅ │Lat., Iǰami. + Window (hole) │Udoto, eṅ; pl. -n │ + Witchcraft │Dāsim, en │ + Wizard │Oisakutoni, ôl; pl. Eisakutok │ + │Eiboni, ôl; pl. Eibonok │ + Woman │Norion, en; pl. Noriok │(Bari, Nuru = + │ │ child.) + │Daṅadana, en (a mother) │ + │Damonon, en (pregnant) │ + │Siaṅgiki, es (wife) │ + │Daṅgile, en, na (mode of address) │ + │Gogo, eṅ (old woman) │ + Word │Omon, ôl │ + World │Kob, eṅ │ + Year │Ari, ôl; pl. -n │ + Zebra │Oitiko, ôl; pl. -n │Lat., Edigo. + + + NUMERALS. + + 1 │-bo (o-bo, masc.; na-bo, fem.) │Lat., -bodi. + │ │Somali, Kob. + 2 │-arre (w-arre, masc.; n-arre, fem.)│Lat., -arrega. + │ │Bari, Öri, murek. + │ │Diṅka, Rōu. + │ │Šiluk } Arrio. + │ │Šuli } Arrio. + │ │Lur } Arrio. + 3 │Uni │Lat., Gonigo. + │ │Bari, Ok (in + │ │ compounds). + 4 │Uṅgwan; Otoni (Southern Masai) │Lat., Aṅgon. + │ │Bari, Uṅgwan. + │ │Diṅka, Ṅgwan. + │ │Šiluk } Aṅgwēn. + │ │Suli } Aṅgwēn. + │ │Lur } Aṅgwēn. + 5 │Imiet │Lat., Miyet. + │ │Bari, Kanat. + │ │Diṅka, Vdieč. + │ │Šiluk ) Abīč. + │ │Šuli } Abīč. + │ │Lur } Abīč. + 6 │Ille │Lat., Elle. + │ │Somali, Li. + │ │Boni, Lī. + │ │Galla, Dia. + 7 │Nabušana │Lat., Attarit. + 8 │Isiet │Lat., Otogoṅi (5 + │ │ + 3). + │ │Galla, Zadeta. + │ │Boni, Siete. + 9 │Sāl, or Sahal │Lat., Otoṅgoṅ (5 + │ │ + 4). + │ │Galla } Sagalla. + │ │Somali } Sagalla. + │ │Boni } Sagalla. + 10 │Tomon │Lat., Tomon. + │ │Somali, Tomon. + │ │Galla, -tama (in + │ │ the decades). + │ │Woratta, Tama. + │ │Boni, Tobenna. + │ │Bari, Mere (in + │ │ the decades). + │ │Diṅka, Vtiar. + 11 │Tomon obo │Lat., Tomon + │ │ abodi. + 20 │Dikitam │Lat., At-tomon + │ │ abodi. + │Kitikitam, Dígtam │Galla, Diketama. + │(This is evidently a very ancient │ + │ form. It is remarkable that it is│ + │ almost identical with the Galla. │ + │ It is probably composed of an old│ + │ word for 2, viz. Dik or Tiki and │ + │ Tama = 10.) │ + 30 │Osom │Somali, Sodon. + │ │Galla, Sad-tam or + │ │ Sodom. + 40 │Artam. │Somali, Afarton. + │(Query: Is there here an evidence │Galla, Afurtam. + │ of an older form of 4 in Masai, │ + │ related to the Galla, viz. Ar, │ + │ Afur?) │ + 50 │Onom (also Neiduruǰa) │Somali, χantom. + │ │Galla, Šantam. + 60 │Ipi (“many”); beyond this the │Galla, D’iba = + │ numerals do not seem to be │ 100. + │ further expressed in Masai. Ipi │ + │ is used for 70, 80, 90, 100 │ + │ indifferently. │ + + + ADJECTIVES. + + All │Boki (perhaps -bo, one, pluralized)│ + Alone │-beṅ, ô, na, or ei[86] │Lat., Abodi (from + │ │ Bodi, one). + Bad │Torono; pl. Torok. (In Masai the │Bari. -doro = + │ pl. of adjectives is often used │ fallen, spoilt, + │ in the singular as an │ damaged. + │ intensitive; thus Torok means in │ + │ the singular, “very bad.”) │ + Beautiful (_vide_│Sidai │ + good) │ │ + Bitter │-dua │Lat., -dua (ô, + │ │ na, e). + Black │-rok │Lat., -riok. + │Eloitwe │Bari, Elurwe. + Bold │Ol-ēṅoni; pl. Eṅok, el (the manly) │Lat., Ol-le. + Broad │Dabaš │ + │Ala │Bari, Anagalan. + Broken (spoilt) │-derie │ + Clean (_vide_ │-ibor │Lat., -ibor. + white) │ │ + Clever (cunning) │Nyen, or Ṅeṅ │Bari, Kaṅa. + Cruel │-maṅ │ + Dead │-toa │Bari, Atoan. + │ │Lat., Adua (dumb, + │ │ silent). + Deep │Akwa │ + Dirty │-sorto │ + Dry │-doyo │ + Each │Kil │ + Every │Boki │Lat., -ǰogo. + Fat │-bir │Lat., -vir. + │ │Bari, -ofir. + Feeble │-nana │Lat., -nana. + Few │Kuti │ + Fresh │-ǰon │ + Full │-puta │Lat., -vot. + Good │Sidai. (This word comes from the │Lat., Isidda + │ root Sid’, “to be of easy │ (wanton). + │ manners,” “to be unchaste,” │ + │ whence -sid’ or -siǰ, │ + │ “incontinent.” It shows the │ + │ notion of morality among the │ + │ Masai, that such a term should │ + │ come to mean “pleasant,” │ + │ “handsome,” “good,” and even │ + │ “useful”); pl. Sidan. │ + │Subad, or Subai (used as a │Lat., Mgada + │ greeting) │ (good). + │-gai (from which root Rain and God)│ + Great │Kito; pl. Kitok │ + Green │-nyori │ + │-ǰon (fresh, raw) │ + │-šal (in contradistinction to dry, │ + │ burnt) │ + Hard │-gol │Bari, Al-ogo. + Having │-ata │ + Healthy │-lulunga │ + │-gol │ + Heavy │-iroši │Lat., -irosi. + High │-ado │Lat. ôdo. + │ │Bari, -aǰo. + Hot │-ruwa │ + Left (hand) │Kirian │ + Little │-ti, Kiti; pl. Kutiti │Bari, -dit. + Long │-ado (_vide_ high) │Bari, -aǰo. + │ │Lat., -odo. + Low │Abori │ + Male │Ole; pl. Lewa │Lat., Olle. + │ │Bari, Logulao; + │ │ Lo- (masc. + │ │ article and + │ │ prefix). + Many │Kumo, Kumok │ + Near │Etana │ + New │Neǰuk │Lat., Aṅgeǰuk. + │ │Bari, Ludukotyo. + Old │Msana │Lat., Meruan. + │Gogo (old in years) │Bari, Madoṅ. + │Eos │ + Open │Eigenu │Lat., Aṅa. + │ │Bari, Aṅa. + Other │-kai, ôl, eṅ; pl. Kulikai │ + Pregnant │Emena │ + Red │-nyokie │ + Right (hand) │Olewa (_vide_ male) │ + Ripe │Eo, Eoto │Lat., -dori. + │ │Bari, Toran. + Short │Torop or Dorob │Lat., Os-suk. + Sick │-mui, Emui │Lat., Uṅgwe. + Spotted │-geri │Bari, Mimyen. + Strong │-gol │ + Sweet │-melok │ + Thick │-pir │Lat., -vir. + │ │Bari, ofir. + Thin │Roṅgai │ + Weak │-nana (evidently connected with Na,│Lat., Na-, fem. + │ the feminine particle) │ article. + │ „ │Bari, Na, No, Nu, + │ │ fem. article. + │ │Šiluk, Nyano = + │ │ she. + White │-ibor │Lat., -ivor; + │ │ Aboṅ. + + For PRONOUNS see preceding sketch of grammar. + + + VERBS. + + Able, be │-idim │ + Abound │-bore │Bari, ǰore = + │ │ overflow. + Agree │-šiate │ + Angry, to be │-goro │Bari, Awaran = + │ │ angry. + Anoint │-el │Bari, Wel-et = + │ │ ointment. + │-pik │ + Arrive │-beki │ + Ask │-bar │ + Avoid │-pal │ + Awake │-tobiwo │ + │-inyo │ + Be │-ra; -ta; -ti. │ + Bear (to give │-išo │ + birth) │ │ + Beat │-ar │ + Begin │-aṅgas │ + Bend │-lok │ + Benighted, to be │-muta │ + Bind │-en, -gen, -igen (all sorts of │ + │ variants from the primitive root │ + │ -en) │ + Bite │-on │ + Blow │-yuk; -kut │Bari, Kudie. + Boil (act.) │-yir │ + (neut.) │-tokitok │ + Break (act.) │-rek │ + (neut.) │-er (from this root a number of │ + │ terms are derived, such as │ + │ -derie, broken, from the past │ + │ tense of -er = -derie, &c.) │ + Break open │-bol │Bari, Bel, Belen; + │ │ Futukö. + „ off │-pukus │ + Breathe │-yaṅ │Bari, Yukakin. + Bring │-iau │Bari, ǰwe. + Build │-itobir (from -ito, make, and -bir,│ + │ big, wide, &c.) │ + Bury │-nuk │ + │-tur (to excavate) │ + Buy │-inyaṅu │ + Call │-ibot │ + Carry │-nap (-nab in conjugation) │ + Catch │-iwōn; -wab │ + Choose │-ikebu; -šilu │ + Circumcise │-murāt │ + Clean │-ǰud │Bari, Čea. + Climb │-ilebaki │ + Clothe (act.) │-yop │ + (pass.) │-išop │ + Come │an irregular verb conjugated by the│Bari, Po, Fo. + │ imperfect and independent forms │ + │ -lotu, -yuo, -ponu │ + Count │-iken │Bari, Ken. + (reckon) │ │Šuli, Ken. + Copulate │-urbono │ + Cover │-pukur │Bari, Rap. + (conceal) │-jab (from this root = Enjabo, │ + │ penis, viz. “the covered, │ + │ concealed”) │ + Cut │-duṅ │ + „ open │-pūl │ + „ up │-saǰ │ + Dance │-raṅ │ + Deceive │-led’ or leǰ │ + Despise │-men │ + Die │-ē (irregular verb, past tense, │ + │-tua) │Bari, Toan. + Dig │-tur │ + Do │-itobir (old form, -ito) │ + Dream │-idetidet │ + Drink │-mat │Bari, Moǰu. + │ │Šuli, Mate. + Eat │-nya (irregular verb, past tense, │Bari, Nye. + │ -tama) │ + │ │Šuli, Tyam. + Empty │-bugu │ + „ to be │-mota │ + Enter │-ǰiṅ │ + Erect │-ṅgada │ + Escape │-luaǰa │ + Fall │-doye │Bari, Doro. + Fatten │-bir │Bari, Ofir = fat. + Fear │-ure │ + Feel │-niṅ │Bari, Yin = to + │ │ hear. + Fight │-ara │Latuka, Ivot. + Fill │-ibut │ + Find │-šia? │ + Finish │-idip; -mit │ + Fly │-ipiri │ + Follow │-tubake │ + Forbid │-anya │ + Forget │-torgine │ + Frighten │-iture; -urešo │ + Generate │-iu (old form only existing in │ + │ compounds and derivatives, such │ + │ as -išo, the modern verb, past │ + │ tense, -toiūo) │ + Get │-šia; -tum │ + Give │-išo (imperative irreg., Enǰo, │ + │ Enǰoki) │ + Go │Irregular verb composed of the │Lat., -lo. + │ independent forms, -lo; -po; -no;│ + │ šom; and -beti │ + Greet │-irorok (from -roro, to speak) │Bari, Ro-man. + Grind │-idoṅ │ + Grow │-bulu │ + Hang │-ik │Bari, Likie. + Have │-ata (to be with) │ + │-ra ( „ ) │ + Heal │-išiu │ + Hear │-niṅ (the same as “feel”) │Bari, Yin. + │ │Šuli, Win. + Help │-retoki │ + Hide │-isudo │ + Hit │-ar │ + Hunt │-iṅoru │ + Ill, be │-mui │Bari, Mimyen. + Itch │-oǰ │ + Judge │-iriš. │ + Jump │-isioṅ │ + Kick │-ramo │ + Kill │-ar; -rem │Bari, Rembu. + Know │-yôlo │ + Laugh │-kwen │Bari, Kweni. + Lick │-meǰ │ + Lie │-teleǰase │ + Lie down │-ber │ + Like │-nyon; -šam │Bari, Nyar. + Live, to (be │-piu │ + alive) │ │ + Look │-iṅon; -imariri │ + Lose │-imim │ + Love │-šam; -nyor; -iyan │Bari, Nyar; Yap. + Make │-itobir │ + Marry │-yam (for a man) │ + │-yamišo (for a woman) │Bari, Yenbaǰi. + Milk │-leb │Bari, Le = milk, + │ │ n. + Mix │-gurd │ + Move │-ipoṅ │Bari, Bondu. + Overcome │-mir │ + Pass │-im │ + Perish │-min │ + Perspire │-ilaṅ │ + Plant │-tur │ + Pregnant, be │-mena │ + Pull │-ibuṅ; -yet │Bari, ǰik. + Pursue │-suǰ │ + Push │-rumo │ + Put │-Šum; -rid │ + Quarrel │-arare; arate │ + Rain │-ša │ + Remove │-tau; -tumu │ + Rend │-giǰ │ + Reply │-iruk │ + Resemble │-wana │ + Return │-riṅyo │ + Roar │-šir │ + Roast │-beǰ │ + Rob │-buro │ + Run │-bor │ + Say │-ǰo │ + See │-dol (irregular; past tense, │ + │ -tadūa) │ + Seek │-iṅoru │ + Seize │-ibuṅ │ + Sell │-mir │ + Send │-ipaya │ + Sew │-rip │ + Shake │-igusugusu │ + Shave │-barn │Bari, Barandu. + Shine │-imer; iwaṅ │ + Sing │-raṅ; -isilil │ + Sit │-ton; -totona │ + Skin │-ǰeṅ │ + Sleep │-irura │ + Smell (stink) │-ṅgu │ + (fragrant) │-robil │ + Speak │-iro; iroro │ + Stand │-idaso │ + Steal │-buro │ + Stoop │-ulud │ + Suck │-nak │ + Swallow │-iǰo │ + Take │-ya (past tense, -yawa) │ + Talk │-iroro │ + Tear │-giǰ │ + Tell │-liki │ + Think │-ǰo │ + Throw │-ibugo; -idad │ + Tie │-lid; -en │ + Tire │-naura │ + Tremble │-girigira │ + Twist │-gur; -biaǰ │ + Urinate │-lut │Bari, Kula. + Vanquish │-dim │ + Vomit │-lobišo │ + Want │-yau │ + Wash │-ug; -sul │ + Watch │-muda │ + Weep │-išir │ + Wipe │-yud │ + Write │-sir │ + Yawn │-aṅa │ + + + ADVERBS, PREPOSITIONS, &c. + + Above │Keber │Bari, Ki. + Afterwards │Pei │ + Again │Si │ + Ago │Oba, muidi │ + Although │Pe │ + Always │Osake │ + And │O (masculine); na (feminine) │ + As, like │Kam │Galla, Kam. + At │Ti; T- │ + Because │Amu │ + Before │Teṅgomom (“in the face”) │ + Behind │Tolkurum │ + Beyond │Endalo │ + But (only) │-ke (generally enclitic) │ + Down │Abori │ + Either (or) │au—ao │ + Entirely │Boki; naleṅ │ + Far │Ba │Bari, Faǰo. + First │-bo │ + For │Ko; K- │Bari, Ko. + From │ │ + Here │Ene; tene │Bari, Ni. + How? │Aˇi? │ + How much? │-muaǰa (prefix according to gender │Bari, Moda? + „ many? │ of noun) │ + If │Den _or_ Ten; Pe, P- │ + In │-ti; T-, Te; Atwa │ + Like │Kam │Galla, Kam. + Much │Kumo, Kumok │ + No │Emé │Galla, Me, eme. + Not │Me, M- │ + Now │Tata │ + Of │-a (la, na, ra, according to │ + │ gender) │ + Often │Enake │ + On │Keber │Bari, Ki. + Only │Ke │Bari, Gelen. + Outside │Aulo │ + Quickly │Sarasara │ + Really │Edede │ + Slowly │Akidi │ + So │Neǰa │Bari, Čona. + There │Ende, Tende │Bari, Ni. + To │Ko, K-; Te, T- │ + To-day │Tata; Duo │Lat., Agana. + To-morrow │Teisere │Lat., Taleloṅ. + Under │Abori │ + Upon │Keber │ + Very │Kumo │ + Well │Subai │ + What sort? │Ka, K-? (prefixed to word) │ + What kind of? │ │ + When? │Kaǰi? │ + Where? │Aǰi? Akodēē? │ + Why? │Painyo? (For what?) │ + With │La, na, e; ko; pe │ + Yes │Neǰata (It is so); Oi; iba; eo; │ + │ iko, &c. │ + Yesterday │Ṅole │Lat., Golo-ṅgole + ─────────────────┴───────────────────────────────────┴───────────────── + + + + + APPENDIX II. + VOCABULARIES OF KI-ČAGA, KI-GWENO, AND KI-TAVEITA. + + +For explanation of Orthography, see the preceding remarks on pp. 476, +477. + +The number affixed to a substantive indicates the prefix class to which +it belongs, and shows how its plural may be formed. Unusual or irregular +plurals are given. + + NOUNS. + ────────────────┬─────────────────┬──────────────────┬───────────────── + English. │ Ki-čaga. │ Ki-gweno, &c. │ Ki-taveita. + ────────────────┼─────────────────┼──────────────────┼───────────────── + Air │Mbého, 9; Otanu, │(Ki-kambambewo, 9)│ + │11 │ │ + Animal │Nyama │Nyama, 9 │Nyama, 9. + Ant │Mbome, 9; Safu, 9│ │Safu, 9; Maciči, + │ │ │6. + Anus │Dako, 9; Kisi, 7 │ │Itako, 5. + Ape (baboon) │Ifubi, 5 │ │Iregēń, 5. + Arm │Mkoṅo, 3; Kuoko, │Kuwoko, 15 │Mukono, 3. + │15 │ │ + Arrow │Mfi, 3 │ │Mwasa, 3. + Aunt │Msaǰa, 1 │ │Mudnēdu, 1. + Axe │Soka, 5 │ │Isoka, 5. + Back │Muhoṅgo, 3 │ │Mwoṅgo, 3. + Banana (fruit) │Ikundu, 5 │Niru’u, 5 │Idiō, 5. + „ (tree) │ │(Ki-teke, River │Nginda, 9. + │ │Congo; nku, 9) │ + Baobab │ │ │Mku, 3. + Basket │Mwera, 3 │ │Kitaṅgo, 7. + Bat │Ikoro, 5 │ │Ngoṅgolo, 9. + Beads │ │ │Mukazi, 3. + Beard │Ṅgerero, 9 │(Ki-kamba; │Kōlo, 9? + │ │Kiṅgelwa, 7) │ + Bed │Nčoiṅ, 9 │(Masai, Ol-ǰoni) │Niwai, 9. + Bee │Nǰuki, 9 │Nzuki, 9 │Nyoki, 9. + Bell │Kimaṅga, 7 │ │Manga? Kisumanze, + │ │ │7. + Bellows │Mfo, 3 │ │Nkumfura, 9. + Belly │Ndeu, 9 │(Ki-kamba, Ivu, 5)│Kinena, 7. + Bird │Ndehe, 9 │Ndege, 9 │Ndege, 9. + Blood │Msamu, 3 │ │Sakame, 9. + Body │Nyimbi, mbi, 9 │Mbi, 9 │Mwuri, 3. + Bone │Nifuo, 5 │(Ki-kamba, Iwindi,│Niwindi, 5. + │ │5) │ + Book │Nčole, 9 │ │ + Bottom │Wanda, 16 │ │Nisi, 9. + Bow │Wuda, 14 │Wura, 14 │Wuta, 14. + Boy │Mana, 1 │ │Mwana, Kume, 1. + Brains │Orongo, Nyorongo,│(Ki-kamba, Yongo, │Wongo, 14. + │11 │11) │ + Brass │Moro, 3 │ │ + Breast (female) │Ma-wehe, 6, pl. │ │ + „ (male) │Mbafu, 9 │ │Mbafui, 9. + Brother │Mana-wama, 1 (son│ │Mdu. + │of mother) │ │ + │Ndeho 9 │ │ + │(obsolete) │ │ + Buffalo │Mbogo, 9 │(Ki-kamba, Mboo, │Mboγo, 9. + │ │9) │ + Butter │Mafuda, 6 │ │Mafuta, 6. + Butterfly │Mfugo, 3 │ │Mbambarito, 9. + Buttocks │Madako, 6 │Mbweča, 9 │ + Cat │Nkite, 7 │ │Munyawi, 1. + Chair │Kitembo, 7 │(Ki-kamba, │Kičumbi, 7. + │ │Kitumbi, 7) │ + Cheek │Ṅgundu, 9; pl. 6 │ │Itumbo, 5. + Chief │Maṅge, 1 │(Ki-taita, Mgosi, │Mfumu, 1. + │ │1) │ + │ │(Zulu, Iṅkosi, 1) │Mgosi, 1. + Child │Mtutu, 1 │Mwana, 1 │Mwana mdongo, 1. + Chin │Ngeru, 9; pl. 6 │ │Kireǰu, 7. + Circumcision │Nyifuto, 5 │ │Kutawanwa, 15. + Civet-cat │Nyaha, 5 │(Ki-swahili, │ + │ │Ṅgawa, 9) │ + Cloth │Ṅguwo, 9 │Nsori, 9 │Ṅguo, 6. + Cloud │Mtuna, 3 │ │Izua, 5. + Cock │Oluṅôni, 11 │ │Ṅguruwi, 9. + Cold │Mbeho, 9 │ │Mbeho, 9. + Copper │Kera, 9 │ │ + Corpse │Afa (he dies), 1 │ │Afwa (he is + │ │ │dead). + Country │Wanda, 16 │ │Ntere, 9. + │ │(Ki-taita, Ṅgoma, │ + Cow │Ṅombe, 9; Mbe, 9 │9; Zulu, Inkomo, │Ṅombe, 9. + │ │9) │ + Crab │Inje, 5 │ │Kidaṅgoe, 7. + Crocodile │Kinyaṅ, 7 │(_Masai_, │Kinyaṅ, 7. + │ │Ôl-ginyaṅ) │ + Crow │Iguru, 5 │(Ki-taita, Ṅgolo, │Ikuru, 5. + │ │9) │ + Day │Nyimo, 5; pl. │Mfiri, 3 │Zwale-muka? + │Mumo. 6 │ │ + Dawn │Ṅgameni, 9 │ │Heabu, 16. + │ │ │Čičafoiči + Death │Akomeka, 1 │ │(relative, the + │ │ │thing which is + │ │ │dead?) + Devil │Asuko, 1 │ │Luhuṅgu, 11; pl. + │ │ │10. + │ │Kite, 7; │Kibaru (also + Dog │Mbara, 9 │(Ki-kamba, Ṅgite, │Jackal). + │ │7) │ + Donkey │Ndsoi, 9 │(Lu-ganda, Ndogoi)│Nǰoe, 9. + Door │Mwoṅgo, 3 │ │Nimbenge, 5. + Dream │Nyalodia, 5 │ │Waota (? They + │ │ │dream). + Drum │ │Mtiṅgo, 3 │Ṅgoma, 9. + Dwarf │Agu’ana, 1 │ │Mfuhi, 1. + Eagle │Imaruea, 5 │ │ + Ear │Kudu, 15 │ │Isikio, 5. + Egg │Liboro, 5 │ │Igi, 5. + Elbow │Okokuo, 11 │(Lu-ganda, │Ikokora, 5. + │ │Lukokola, 11) │ + Elephant │Ndofu, 9; pl. 6 │ │Nzobu, 9. + Eunuch │Mavumi, 1 │ │Acigo-makedi. + Evil │Kibicu, 7 │ │Kiwiwi, 7. + Excrement │Marifi, 6 │ │Mavi, 6. + Eye │Riso, 5 │Riso, 5 │Jiso, 5. + „ lid │Mbawa, 9 │ │ + „ brow │Nyinyili, 5 │ │ + Face │Kiamu, 7 │ │Nibušo, 5. + Fat │Mafuda, 6 │ │Mafuta, 5. + Father │Baba, 1 │ │Mpapa, 1. + Fear │Owu, 11 │ │Nifoli, 5. + Feather │Mberi, 9 │ │ + │ │Munyu, 3 │ + Finger │Kimunu, 7 │(Ki-kamba, Čaa, │Ibiča, 5. + │ │Ki-nyika, Čala) │ + Fire │Môdo, 3 │ │Môto, 3. + Fish │Ikuṅga, 5 │(Ki-kamba, Kuyu, │Ṅguluma, 9. + │ │7) │ + Flower │Kivaro, 7 │ │Kiwaro, 7. + Food │Nyirafuna, 5 │ │Nikijo, 5. + Fool │Kitondo, 7; │ │Ewukwa, 1; 3rd. + │Mtondo, 1 │ │pers. verb. + Foot │Nyawayo, 9; │ │Niwatu, 9. + │Nutufü, 11 │ │ + Foreskin │Ibutu, 5 │ │Ṅgigwala, 9. + Forest │Msudu, 3 │ │Ṅkititu, 7. + Fowl │Ṅguku, 9 │Ṅguku, 9 │Ṅguku, 9. + │Nzudu, 9. (This │ │ + │is the name given│ │ + │to a wild dog │ │ + Fox │which barks │ │ + │loudly; probably │ │ + │_Canis │ │ + │simensis_.) │ │ + Friend │Mbuia, 9 and 1 │ │Mbuia, 9 and 1. + Frog │Ṅgeli, 9 │ │Ndunda, 9. + Fruit │Mfuranˇe, 3 │ │ + │Sarulía. (This is│ │ + │the name often │ │ + Gazelle │given to │ │ + │_Neotragus │ │ + │Kirkii_.) │ │ + Ghost │Ṅgilio, 9; pl. 6 │ │ + Giraffe │Nyôli, 9 │ │Ndea, 9. + Girl │Mgogo, 1 │ │Munumuče, 1. + Glass │Kimele, 7 │ │ + Goat │Mburi, 9 │Mburi, 9 │Mbuǰi, 9. + God │Eruwa, 5 (_vide_ │Ruwa, 5 │Nizuwa, 5. + │Sun) │ │ + Grass │Mara, 6 │ │Mani, 6. + Grave │Karika, 13 │ │ + Ground │Wanda, 16 │ │Ntere, 9. + Guinea-fowl │Iraṅa, 5 │ │Ṅgelélé, 9. + Gum (of teeth) │Išino, 5 │ │ + Gun │Walebolo, 14; │ │ + │Ṅgebolebolo, 9 │ │Ṅkipolopolo, 7. + „ powder │Baruti │(_Swahili-Arabic_,│Baruti. + │ │Baruti) │ + Hair │Ndzui, Nǰi, 9 │Nzui, 9 │Nyui, 9. + Half │Ukeṅga, 14 │ │Kihindi, 7. + Hand │Mkono, 3; pl. │Kuwoko, 15 │Niganza, 5. + │Mawoko, 6, irreg.│ │ + Hawk │Nyokoro, 11 │(Ki-kamba, Kilui, │Kilwi, 7. + │ │7) │ + Head │Mudo, 3 │Murue, 3 │Mutwe, 3. + Heart │Ṅgōō, 9 │(Ki-taita, Ṅgolo, │Ṅgoro, 9. + │ │9) │ + Heaven │Mabuži, 6 │ │Ndēē, 9. + Heel │Utufo, 14; │ │Ntutunyi, 9. + │Nyutufo, 11 │ │ + Hill │Ibiči, 5 │ │Ṅduwi, 9. + Hippopotamus │Ṅgerre, 9 │Ṅgerere, 9 │Ṅgerere, 9. + Hoe │Ikumbi, 5 │(Lu-gauda, Ṅkumbi,│Ṅkwima, 9. + │ │9) │ + Honey │Wuki, 14 │ │Nzoki, 9. + Horn │Membe, 9? │ │Luhembe, 11; pl. + │ │ │Mbembe. + House │Numba, 9 │Nyumba, 9 │Nyumba, 9. + Hunger │Nǰāā, 9 │ │Nzāā, 9. + Hyena │Ifulu, 5 │(Kongo, Mbulu, 9) │Nibao, 5. + Hyrax │Kimburu, 7 │ │ + Ichneumon │Muha, 1 │ │ + Insect │Idudu, 5 │ │Mukarakara, 1. + Iron │Maringa, 6 │ │Menya, 9? + Island │Nrua, 9 │(Ki-taita, Kinwa, │Ndiwa, 9. + │ │7) │ + Ivory │Mahēho, 6 │ │Idyegu la Nzobu, + │ │ │5. + Knee │Nyindru, nyindi, │(Ki-nyika, Vuindi,│Ikunguru, 5. + │9 │9) │ + Knife │Kiošo, 7 │ │Kahandi, 13. + Language │Matetu, 6 │ │Nakuwara? (I am + │ │ │speaking). + Leg │Mbuṅga, 9 │Kurende, 15 │Nikūū, 5. + Leopard │Iruṅ, Irumu, 5 │Mlula, 1 │Lukeri, 11. + Lion │Simba, 9 │Simba, 9 │Simba, 9. + Lip │Momo, 3? │ │Momō, 9. + Lizard │ │ │Sigabo, 9 or 5. + (Chameleon) │ │ │ + „ │ │ │Lugwe, 11. + │Aluo, 1 │ │ + Magic │(wizard?); Usawi,│Usawi, 14 │Wuγaṅga, 14. + │14 │ │ + Maize │Mahemba, 6 │ │Mahemba, 6. + Man (homo) │Mundu, 1 │Mdu, 1; pl. Wandu.│Mundu. + (vir) │Msoro, 1 │ │ + Market │Mboma, 9 │ │Kičinda, 7. + Meat │Nyama, 9 │ │Nyama, 9. + Milk │Mačuručuru, 6; │Mariwa, 6 │Mawee, mawere, 6. + │malela, 6 │ │ + Monkey │Kinaṅgoyo, 7 │Ṅgima, 9 │Ṅgima, 9. + (_Colobus │Ndoh’o, 9; pi. │ │Ṅgo, 9. + guereza_) │mandoh’o, 6 │ │ + Moon │Mwere, 3 │ │Mwzi, 3. + Morning and │Ṅgameni, 9 │ │Heabu, 16. + morrow │ │ │ + Mother │Wama, 1; pl. same│ │Iya, 9; pl. + │ │ │Niwaya, 10. + Mountain │Msari, 3 │ │Ndui, 9. + Mouth │Lumbu, 5; pl. │ │Momo, 9. + │malumbu, 6 │ │ + Nail (finger and│Nučaa, 11; pl. │ │Lukombwe, 11; pl. + toe) │nǰaa, 10 │ │ṅgombwe, 10. + Name │Rina, 5 │ │Nizina, 5. + Navel │Ṅkimbumbuču, 7 │ │Mkudu, 9. + Neck │Nzingo, 9 │ │Nisingo, 9; + │ │ │nigoši, 9. + Needle │Sindano, 9 │ │Luγumba, 11. + Night │Kwaela, 15; mema,│(Ki-taita, Kiru, │Hekiu, 16; Wiu, + │9; kiu, 9 │9) │14. + Nose │Mbua, 9 │Mbua, 9 │Nifuo, 9. + Old person │Mēgu, 9 │ │Muγosi, 1. + Ostrich │Nyah’a, 9 │ │Nyaγa, 9. + Ox │Ṅombe, 9; Mbe, 9 │Ṅumbi, 9 │Ṅombe, 9. + Peace │Mbuïa-tzimo, 1 │ │ + │(one friend) │ │ + Penis │Mbolu, 9; Mkia, 3│Mčunu │Nǰabo, 9 (_vide_ + │ │ │Masai). + Pig │Ṅguwe, 9 │ │Ṅgūwe, 9. + Pigeon │Mbeta, 9 │ │Nibeta, 5. + Pipe │Išaṅgo, 5 │ │Lumoti, 11. + Place │Wanda, wandra, │Handu, 16 │Handu, 16. + │wandu, 16 │ │ + Porcupine │Nyisasa, 5 │(Ki-taita, Isasa, │Nzege, 9. + │ │5) │ + Potatoes │Ṅgumba, 9 │ │Ṅgumba, 9. + (sweet) │ │ │ + Prostitute │Msura, 1 │(Ki-swahili, Sura │ + │ │= concubine) │ + Quietness │Mbuho, 9 │ │ + Rain │Mvuo, 9 │ │Mvua, 9. + Rat │Ṅgyah’a, 9 │ │Ṅgoswe, 9. + Rhinoceros │Mbura, 9 │(Lu-ganda, Ṅkula, │Mburia, 9. + │ │9) │ + River │Mfoṅgo, 3 │(Zulu, Mfula 3) │Mfuro, 3. + Road │Nǰila, 9 │ │Nzia, 9. + Roof │Mčalo, 3; Ndiṅgo,│ │ + │9 │ │ + Saliva │Mada, 6 │ │Mate, 6. + Sand │Nteri, 9 │ │ + Semen │Uro, 14 │ │ + Shadow │Nteru, 9 │(Ki-nyika, Kivuli)│Kiwuri, 7. + Sheep │Coōndi, 7; pl. │Mondo, 9 │Ṅonǰe, 9. + │Šiondi. │ │ + Shield │Ṅgawo │ │Ṅgao, 9. + Sickness │Awabiu, 1 │ │ + Sister │Mšigiogo, 1 │ │ + Skin │Ncoiń, 9 (_vide_ │ │Kikonde, 7. + │Masai) │ │ + Sky │Erua, 5 │ │Waṅga-izeri, 14. + Slave │Nyišinga, 5 │ │ + │(_vide_ Masai) │ │ + Sleep │Alā, 1 │ │Kušinzia, 15. + Small-pox │Mašigi, 6 │ │Nišiko, 5. + Smith │Ṅgaṅga, 9 │ │Mšana, 1. + Smoke │Muzu, 3 │Mtzi, 3 │Moši, 3. + Snake │Nǰoka, 9 │ │Nyoka, 9. + Snuff │Mbatu │ │Tumbatu-ninwe. + Son │Kimana, 7 (13?); │ │Mwana, 1. + │Mpaka, 9 │ │ + Song │Aimba, 1 (he │ │ + │sings) │ │ + Soul │ │ │Ṅgôro, 9. + Spear │Mbere, 9 (_vide_ │Nifumo, 5 │Ničumo, 5. + │Masai) │ │ + Speech │Kafo, 13 │ │ + Spider │Mbuhu, 9 │ │Mburazizi, 9. + Spirit │Usawi, ? 14 │ │Ṅgoma, 9. + │ │(Ki-nyika, │ + Star │Nyenyeri, 9 │Nyenyesi, 9); │Ndondo, 9. + │ │Ki-taita, Ndonde, │ + │ │9 │ + Stick │Kiri, 7 │ │Nisibo, 5. + Stomach │Maula, 6 │ │Matumbo, 6. + Stone │Nyiho, 5 │ │Nibabwe, 5. + Sugar-cane │Nyihuwa, 5 │(Ki-taita, Mugera,│Nimugua, 5. + │ │3) │ + Sun │Erūa, 5 │Ruwa, 5 │Nizua, 5. + Sweat │Nǰuki, 9 │ │Masuṅgu, 6. + Sweet potato │Kiašanda, 7 │ │ + Sword │Ošu, 11 │ │Muhandi, 3. + Syphilis │Mbuwa, 9 │ │ + Tail │Mwasi, pl. Ṅgasi,│ │Kitizi, 7. + │9 and 10 │ │ + Tale │Irigia, 5 │ │Luγano, 11. + Tear │Afuha (verb); │ │Masoǰi, 6. + │Mčeṅgeri, 3 │ │ + Testicles │Mbolu-tašimba, 9 │ │Mbumba, 9; + │ │ │makedi, 6. + Thief │Aiwa, 1; Ilaṅgo, │ │Mdu wa hiwa, 1. + │5 │ │ + Thigh │Nikisowu, 5 │ │Nikiγa, 9. + Thing │Kindu, 7 │Kindu, 7 │Kindu, 7. + Thorn │Muša, 3 │ │Nimuowa, 9. + Thread │Nyuruso, 11 │ │Luzigi, 11. + Throat │Nyoro, 9 │(Ki-taita, Iraṅgi,│Muraṅgi, 3. + │ │5) │ + Thumb │Munu-mnene, 3; │ │Kiča, 7. + │Nohi, 11 │ │ + Thunder │Ṅgururuma, 9 │ │Mvua-ruruma, 9. + Tobacco │Mbatu, 9 │ │Tumbatu, 9. + To-day │Lalu, 9 │ │Nio, 9. + Toe │Ṅkimnyo, 7 │ │Kiča, 7. + To-morrow │Ṅgama, 9 │ │Niawo, 9. + Tongue │Noilimi, 11 │Nuilimi, 11; pl. │Nilumi, 5. + │ │Malutimi, 6 │ + Tooth │Nihēho, 5 │Niyē’o, 5 │Niǰēgo, 5. + Town │Kānie, 13?; Muri,│ │Mwaṅga, 3. + │3 │ │ + Tree │Muri, 3 │Muri, 3 │Muti, 3. + Trench │Mfo, 3 │ │Nitego, 5. + Tribe │ │(Ki-taita, Mbari, │Mbare. + │ │9) │ + Trumpet │Nyombe, 9 │ │Ndurere, 9. + │Sorindi, 9; │ │ + Truth │Ṅga-leh’a (verb, │ │Kakudidi, 13. + │1st pers.) │ │ + Twin │Mbasa, 9 │(Ki-nyika, Patsa, │Maza. + │ │9) │ + Ulcer │Nyodi, 5 │ │Kionda, 7. + │ │ │Mdu-aweya, 1 + │ │ │(Mother’s + Uncle │Migi, 1 │ │brother). + │ │ │Mdu-awapa, 1 + │ │ │(Father’s + │ │ │brother). + Urine │Maǰi, 6 │ │Makozo, 6 + Vagina │Mbula, 9; Kinu, 9│Nirako, 5 │Kiši, 7 + Valley │Mbǰini, 9 │ │Kongo, 9 + │Muka, 1. (This is│ │ + │the translation │ │ + │given by the │ │ + │natives, although│ │ + Virgin │in both cases it │ │Mbora, 1 + │merely means │ │ + │woman. They have │ │ + │no precise term │ │ + │for virginity.) │ │ + Voice │Afua (verb) │ │Nigonda, 5. + Vulture │Mtoń, 1 │(Ki-kamba, Ndei, │Ndei, 9. + │ │9) │ + War │Ṅgondu, 9 │(Ki-nyiki, Ṅgondu,│Ṅgondo, 9. + │ │9) │ + Water │Mariṅga, 6 │(Kongo, Nlaṅgu, 9,│Mlaṅai, 3; + │ │4) │Mbombe, 9. + Week │Ṅgikumi, 7 (ten │ │Misi Mfuṅgate, 4 + │days) │ │(seven days). + Widow │ │ │Ṅgaviani. + Wife │Mwanawaka, 1 │ │Mče, 1. + │Mbora, 1 │ │ + Wind │Ndimu, 9; Mbeko, │ │Ṅguṅgu, 9. + │9 │ │ + Wing │Nikuṅgu, 5 │ │Ṅizaγu, 5. + Witch │Aloa, 1 │ │Msawi, 1. + Witchcraft │Usawi, 14 │Usawi, 14 │Usawi, 14. + Wizard │Aloa, 1 │ │Msawi, 1. + Woman │Mbora, 1 │Mka, 1 │Mče, 1. + Id.: remaining│ │ │ + unmarried—old │Muhumba, 1 │ │Ndasa, 9. + maid │ │ │ + Wood │ │ │Lukuni, 11. + Word │Iteta, 5 │ │Nakuwara (I + │ │ │speak). + Year │Mwaka, 3 │ │Nisika, 5. + Yesterday │Alā-kiu (he │ │Niwu, 9. + │sleeps at night) │ │ + Zebra │Nitiko, 5 (_vide_│Nitiko, 5 │Lutiko, 11 + │Masai) │ │(_vide_ Masai). + + + NUMERALS. + + 1 │Kimo, -mo[87] │Umuē, -ume │Moši, -muezo. + 2 │Šivi. -bi, -vi, │Wawi, -wi │Mere, -ere. + │-wi │ │ + 3 │-raro │Raro, -raro │Ndatu, -tatu. + 4 │-nna │Ne, -ne │-inne. + 5 │-tano │Tano, -tano │-sano. + 6 │-ndaru │Randaro │-tandatu. + 7 │Fuṅgare │Fuṅgate │Mfuṅgate. + 8 │Nyanya │-nana │-nane. + 9 │Nikenda │Kenda │Kenda. + 10 │Kumi │Nikumi │Kumi. + 11 │Kumi na kimo │Nikumi na umuē │Kumi na kimuezo. + 12, &c. │„ na šivi, &c. │„ „ wawi │Kumi na viwi, &c. + 20 │Makumi gawi │Ṅakumi awi │Makumi mere. + 21, &c. │„ na kimo, &c.│„ na umuē, &c. │„ na kimuezo, + │ │ │&c. + 30 │Makumi gararo │Makumi araro │Makumi matutu. + 40 │„ ganna │„ ana │Maku’manne. + 50 │„ gatano │„ atano │Makumi asano. + 60 │„ garandaru │„ arandaro │„ atandatu. + 70 │„ mfuṅgare │„ mfuṅgare │„ fuṅgate. + 80 │„ nyanya │„ anana │„ anane. + 90 │„ kenda │„ kenda │„ kenda. + 100 │Ṅgama │Niγana │Niγana. + 1000 │Lule │Kangi kumi │Iraγana kumi. + ½ │Ukeṅga, 14 │ │Kihindi, 7. + ¼ │Nututo, 11; │ │Vihindi, 8. + │Kenga, 10 │ │ + + + ADJECTIVES. + + │-ose (wose, yose,│ │-ose (wose, yose, + All │tzose, gose, &c.,│-oše │ǰose &c., + │according to │ │according to + │concord) │ │concord). + Bad │-bi, -biču │ │-wiwi. + Beautiful │-ča (_vide_ Good)│ │-wedi (_vide_ + │ │ │Good). + Bitter │Ṅgawawa │ │-wawa. + Black │-rusa │(Ki-nyika, nyiru) │-ǰiru. + Blind │Meso gafa (_lit._│ │Emaǰi-kimeso. + │eyes dead) │ │ + Blue │-rusa, -rusu │ │-ṅgoniṅgoni. + Bold │Auko-marima │ │Tena-foli (he has + │ │ │no fear). + Broad │Ṅgirinǰi │ │-arame. + Castrated │Ifutu? │ │Tena-makede. + Cheap │Nga-m-lemba (I │ │ + │cheat him) │ │ + Clean │Yačia │ │-azera. + Clever, cunning │Nyaṅana │ │-čēē. + Dead │-fa │ │-fwa. + Deaf │Maru-afa (ears │ │ + │dead) │ │ + Dear │Yabičuo │ │ + Drunken │Anaṅgo │ │Eṅge; Aeṅgeya. + Dry │Nyosa │(Ki-taita, Oma) │Haoma (refers to + │ │ │class 16). + Dumb │Nyaši │ │-guguma. + Every │Ilibana (verbal │ │Killa. + │form) │ │ + Fat │Nyaṅana muno │ │-ebandi. + Female │-ka │ │-če. + Few │-tutu │ │-doṅgu. + Fierce │-senge │ │-ekahe. + Filthy │-hōyo │ │-enaikwe. + Fine (narrow, │-suse │ │-zeri. + delicate) │ │ │ + Foreign │-wanǰa │ │-geni. + Free │ │ │-huǰi. + Fresh (raw) │-hiēvo │ │-bise. + Gentle │-ṅgula │ │ + Good │-ča │ │-wedi. + Great │-ṅaneǰi; aṅana │ │-baha. + Green │Maranǰa │ │-bisi. + Handsome │-ačia │ │-wedi. + Happy │-huri │ │Aṅara. + Hard │-mumu-mumu │ │-šini; -dindie. + Having, │-enye │ │-enye. + possessing │ │ │ + Healthy │Megu? │ │-dindie. + Heavy │-gunǰa │ │-eme. + High │-sali │ │-eza. + Hot │Mfoiha │ │-nwe; Moto. + Idle │-kiwa │ │-doko. + Jealous │Nya-eṅa │ │ + Left (hand) │Kumoso │ │Kumoso. + Little │-boma │ │-doṅgo. + Long │-leše │ │-weza. + Mad │-suko; nya-suko │ │-ewukwa. + Male │-soro; Mbuṅga │ │-ume. + Many │-iṅgi │ │-iṅgi. + Mean │-ehē │ │-edindie. + Naked │Ntondo │ │-ehotuho. + │(simplicity) │ │ + Narrow │-sari │ │-sisiri. + New │Nzaru │ │-ša. + Old │-kū │ │-asakāā. + Open │-ruwo │ │ + Other │Nyumu │ │-ṅgi. + Plenty │Ntamu │ │ + Poor │-roko │ │-kiwa. + Quick │-ṅgula │ │ + Quiet │-rarere; │ │-hoye. + │Tzirarere │ │ + Raw │-bisi │ │-bisi. + │Ṅare-ṅare; │ │ + Red │nya-rera │ │ + │(copper-coloured)│ │ + Rich │Nǰamu │ │-fumwa (to be + │ │ │chief). + Right (hand) │Kulyo │ │Kume (_lit._, + │ │ │“male”). + Ripe │Nyenyele; -lali │ │-wibwa. + Rotten │-biču │ │ + Same │-hiana │ │-fwanane. + Short │-šimba │ │-fuhi. + Sick │-goro │ │-ewaǰua. + Sour │-wawa │ │-čikie. + Strong │-laṅa │ │-ečēē. + Sweet │-čora │ │-enona. + Thick │-šimba │ │-ebandie; Wuruti. + Thin │-suse │ │-sisiri. + Weak │-ṅgula │ │ + Weary │-čoka │ │-remwa. + White │-bô[88]; Pia │ │-dyewa. + Young │-gogo. │ │-doṅgo. + + + PRONOUNS. + + I │Nyinyi; nǰi-, ṅg-│(Ki-gweno, Nyi-, │Mi, n-. + │ │Ninyi) │ + Thou │Šiowo; wu-, u- │Wu- │Uwe, u-, wu-. + He, she, &c. │Yiowu; a- │ │Iye, e-. + We │Lukeria; lu- │ │Uswi, tu-. + You │? Mu- │ │Unwi, mu-. + They │Awa; wa- │ │Wawo, wa-. + Me │-n-, -ni- │ │-ni-. + Thee │-ku- │ │-ku-, -kw-. + Him │-m-, -mu- │ │-m-, -mu-. + Us │-lu- │ │-tu-. + You │-mu- │ │-m-, -mu-. + Them │-wa- │ │-wa-. + Mine │-ako │ │-aṅgu. + Thine │-fu │ │-ako. + His │-akwe; -nola? │ │-akwe. + Our │-aru, -ru │ │-etu. + Your │-nyi │ │-enyu. + Their │-wo │ │-awo. + + (For DEMONSTRATIVES, &c., _see_ Tables of Concords.) + + Who? │Ṅkiča │ │Niani? + Whom │-iki-? │ │-ani-? + What? │Kiki? │ │Kini? + Whose? │-ile? │ │-kweni? + + (For which, &c., _vide_ Tables of Concords.) + + + VERBS.[89] + + Able (be) │-weza │ │-idima (_vide_ + │ │ │Masai). + Adorn │-čia │ │-areha. + Adultery │-rumka │ │-šinda. + (commit) │ │ │ + Agree │-gundana │ │-kundana. + Angry (be) │-waloana │ │-regidya. + Answer │-gambia ṅgile. │ │ + Arrive │-wara │ │-fika. + Ask │-gunda │ │-budyanye. + Awake │-gura, -ra │(Ki-kamba, -amuka)│-wuka. + Bake (pottery) │-gora │ │-wumba. + Bark │ │ │-aboha. + Bathe │-samba │ │-oγa. + Be │-ba │ │-wa. + Beat │-kapa │ │-biga. + Begin │-čiu │ │-hira. + Believe │ │ │-enǰa. + Bewitch │-loga, -loa │(Ki-taita, │-oga. + │ │Ku-loga) │ + Bite │-nyaši, -mari │ │-nyuma. + Blow │-nyaϑa │ │-nifuta. + Boil │-ndua │ │-nǰmoa. + Born (be) │-aša │ │ + Break │-funǰa │ │-bā. + Breathe │-elo │ │-hema. + Breed │-ganumba │ │-moγa. + Bring │-wikia │(Ki-swahili, │-ete. + │ │-lete) │ + Build │-šiṅga │ │-ǰenga. + Burn │-numbaha │ │-aša. + Burst │-anduka │ │ + Bury │-ruo │ │ + Buy │-ndeūla, -ka │ │-zora. + Call │-alaγa │ │-itaṅge. + Can │-weza │ │-idima (_vide_ + │ │ │Masai). + Carry │-rika │ │-tikie. + Carve │-pačaneča │ │-soṅgoa. + (sculpture) │ │ │ + Castrate │-arino │ │-čua. + │ │(Ki-swahili, │ + Catch │-kamara │-kamata; Ki-nyika,│-gura. + │ │-kuira) │ + Change │-busuo │ │ + Chase │-lasa │ │-matuka, -asa. + Cheat │-lemba │ │-kenga. + Choose │-rua │(Ki-kamba, -nuva; │-sawura. + │ │Ki-taita, -sagula)│ + Circumcise │-arino? │ │-tawanwa (pass.). + Clean │-pačaneča │ │-oǰa. + Climb │-aro │ │-kwea. + Come │-ǰa │ │-za (nzo, imp.). + Cook │-kora │ │-ruγa. + │-lamba; -paro │ │ + Copulate │(for the first │ │-tomba. + │time) │ │ + Cough │-karuo │ │-mbaǰa. + Cover │-fiṅgia; -funuo │ │-ǰiwa. + Crack │-abarika │ │-baǰika. + Cross │-fumaho │ │-kela. + Cry │-alaha; afūa │ │-iyia. + Curse │-ruma │ │ + Cut │-wehaho │ │-tema. + Dance │-šina │(Kongo, -kina) │-toroka. + Destroy │-tiča │ │-kašina. + Die │-fa; -komeka │ │-fwa. + │(vanish) │ │ + Dig │-selūo; -rema │(Swahili, -lima) │-fora. + │(hoe) │ │ + Do │-wuta │ │-areha. + Dream │-loria │ │-ota. + Drink │-nyuwa │ │-nwa. + Dye │-sanǰa │ │ + Eat │-la, -lya │ │-la. + Enter │-henda (to go?) │ │-iṅgia. + Erect │-lyika, -kura │ │-somia, -dondoša + │(obscene) │ │(obscene). + Fall │-aho │ │-gwa. + Fatten │-ṅana │ │-banda. + Fear │-awo │ │-sikia foli. + Feel │-wareware (touch)│ │-guragura. + Fight │-wahana │ │-bigana. + Finish │-iča │ │-hira. + Fly │-runduka │ │-buruka. + Follow │ │ │-ratera. + Forbid │-suo, -aleha │ │-asua. + Forget │-aharima │ │-iwa. + Get │-wara │ │-wona. + Give │-neka, -pa │(Zulu, -nika; │-iṅga. + │ │Ki-kamba, -nenga);│ + Go │-henda, -tonga │(Ki-gweno, γenda) │-tonga. + Grow │-aro (climb?) │ │-mbaha. + Hang (a thing) │-anonoka │ │ + „ a man │-seṅgelela │ │ + Hate │-suo? │ │ + Have │-kere na (“sit │ │ + │with” = possess) │ │ + Heal │-ačia │ │-hoa. + Hear │-ranya │ │-sikia. + Help │ │ │-loša. + Hide │-rika │ │-visa. + Hit │-kapa │ │-biga. + Hoe │-rema │ │-ima. + Hold │-anduho │ │-nagura. + Hunt │-alasa; -henda │ │-rā́tere. + │alasa │ │ + Ill (be) │-luo │ │-waǰua. + Jump │-runduka (fly) │ │-toroka. + Keep │-suruma │ │-gure. + Kill │-waha │ │-koma + Know │-manya │(Lu-ganda, -manyi;│-tisiwa. + │ │Ki-swahili, -jua) │ + Laugh │-seka │ │-seka. + Leave │ │ │-šiγa. + Lick │-gombaho │ │-sona. + Lift │-raho │ │-meγwa. + Like │-kunda, -wesa │ │-kundie. + Look │-mbuya │ │-iyuwa. + Lose │-reta │ │-teka. + Love │-kunda │ │-kundineso. + Make │-oka │ │-areh’a. + Marry │-riča │ │-owa. + Meet │-gumhanana │ │-torana. + Menstruate │-čora │ │-mčarua. + Milk │-kama │ │-kama. + Mix │-sanǰa │ │-ruṅganya. + Obey │-bahe │ │ + Open │-fuṅguo │ │-nd’ugüa. + Pass │-raïa │ │-wetia. + Plant │-awaïa │ │-handa. + Pregnant (be) │-wurô │ │-me. + Prick │-roǰa │ │-tuṅga. + Pull │-ruarua │ │-uta, -nd’yuta. + Push │-tindiga │ │-šindik’a. + Put │-wekaho │ │-wikia. + Putrefy │-wira; -nyara │ │-woa. + Quarrel │-loëa │ │-regid’a. + Rain │-kaba │ │-biγa. + Return │-ča │ │-nduki. + Run │-riǰa │ │-matuka. + Say │-hamba, gamba │ │-tete. + See │-wona │ │-wona. + Seek │-nyinyina │ │-enda. + Seize │-ruo │ │-gura. + Sell │-leria │ │-ntaγa. + Send │-kuneka; -neka │ │-tuma. + Sew │-fuma │ │-čuma. + Shake │-sikasika │ │-hira. + Shave │-ora │ │-enǰa. + Shoot │-ruita │ │-asa. + Show │-ambuïa │ │-onia. + Shut │-fuṅga │ │-fiṅga. + Sing │-uimba │ │-wina. + Sit │-ramia │ │-ikaa. + Skin │-tana │ │-sinza. + Sleep │-lala │ │-nšinžia. + Smell (active) │-rumšia │ │-nuša. + „ (neuter) │-nuka │ │-nyuka. + Smile │-šinika │ │-kišiniko. + Smoke │-ifia │ │ + Sow seeds │-wirawira │ │-handa. + Steal │-iwa │ │-iwa. + Swallow │-mera │ │-meia. + Swear │-alanyamu │ │-sua? + Take │-ruo │ │-anha. + Talk │-wesa │ │-teta. + Taste │-nunsa │ │ + Tear │-randu │ │-badika + Tell │-wesa │ │-ura. + Think │-larere │ │-regid’i? + Thirst │-ṅga │ │ + Throw │-kumba │ │-taga. + Tie │-fuṅga │ │-nčuṅga. + Tire │-lemo │ │-remwa. + Touch │-angasaho; │ │-činda. + │-wareware │ │ + Tremble │-arerema │ │-dedema. + Understand │-rikia │ │-sikia. + Urinate │-hama │ │-kosoa. + Vanish │-komeka │(Ki-nyika, komeka,│ + │ │to vanish, die.) │ + Vomit │-arēga │ │-detaëka. + Walk │-henda mbuho │ │-tonga kusela. + Want │-kunda │ │-kunda. + Wash │-sanǰa │ │-odia. + Wear │-raë │ │-doka. + Weave │-oga │ │ + Weep │-afua │ │-eïa. + Whisper │-weweria │ │-weweda. + Whistle │-murori │ │-biga mrosi. + Wish │-kunda │ │-kunda. + Write │-reh’a │ │-tama. + Yawn │-lya mwaë │ │-biga miaïo. + + + SOME TENSES OF THE VERB IN KI-ČAGA AND KI-TAVEITA. + + (_The pronominal particle attached to the verb is in italics._) + + Ku-neka, _To give_. │ Ku-tonga, _To go_. + │ + PRESENT. │ PRESENT. + Sing. 1 pers. _Ṅga._ } neka, _I │Sing. 1 pers. _Ni_-hu-_ni_-toṅga, + give_. │ _I am going_. + _Nǰi_ } neka, _I give_. │ + „ 2 „ _Wu_-neka, _Thou │„ 2 „ _U_-k’-_u_-toṅga, _Thou + givest_. │ art going_. + „ 3 „ _A_-neka, _He gives_. │„ 3 „ _E_-kw-_e_-toṅga, _He + │ is going_. + Plur. 1 „ _Lu_-neka, _We give_.│Plur. 1 „ _Tu_-ku-_tu_-toṅga, + │ _We are going_. + „ 2 „ _Mu_-neka, _You give_. │„ 2 „ _Mu_-ku-_mu_-toṅga, + │ _You are going_. + „ 3 „ _Wa_-neka, _They give_.│„ 3 „ _Wa_-ku-_wa_-toṅga, + │ _They are going_. + │ + PAST (IMPERFECT). │(This a curious affirmative form of + │ the _present_ in common use; the + │ true simple present has become + │ the _past_.) + Sing. 1 pers. Li-ka-_nǰi_-neka, _I │ „ + was giving_. │ + „ 2 „ Li-ka-_wu_-neka, _Thou │ „ + wast giving_. │ + &c. &c. │ „ + │ + PAST (PERFECT). │ PAST (PERFECT). + Sing. 1 pers. _Ṅǰi_-li-neka, _I │Sing. 1 pers. _Na_-toṅga, _I went_. + gave_. │ + │„ 2 „ _Wu_-toṅga, _Thou + │ went_. + │„ 3 „ _E_-toṅga, _He went_. + &c. &c. │&c. &c. + │ + FUTURE. │ FUTURE. + Sing. 1 pers. _Ṅga_-ku-neka, _I │Sing. 1 pers. _Na_-ku-toṅga, _I + shall give_. │ shall go_. + &c. &c. │&c. &c. + │ + IMPERATIVE. │ IMPERATIVE. + Sing. 2 pers. Neka, _Give thou_. │Sing. 2 pers. Toṅga, _Go thou_. + Plur. 2 „ Nekani, _Give ye_. │Plur. 2 „ Tongani, _Go ye_. + +I cannot ascertain the subjunctive (if there is any), nor am I able to +make out some of the more complicated tenses of the verb. It seems to me +that both in Ki-čaga and Ki-taveita—as in Ki-swahili and some other +North-eastern Bantu tongues—the verbal forms have undergone considerable +degradation and obliteration, just as happens in our own English tongue. +There is no trace of that mode of forming the preterite tense by a true +inflection, which may be observed in the majority of existing Bantu +languages, and which was certainly present in the mother-speech. + +The negative is formed (in connection with the verb) by incorporating +certain particles with the pronominal prefixes. These together form the +following mode of expressing negation:— + + KI-ČAGA. │KI-TAVEITA. + Sing. 1 pers. _Si_-neka, _I give │Sing. 1 pers. _Si_-toṅga-mi, _I go + not_. │ not_. + „ 2 „ [90] _Hu_-neka, _Thou │„ 2 „ _Tu_-toṅga-we, _Thou + givest not_. │ goest not_. + „ 3 „ _Ha_-neka, _He gives │„ 3 „ _Te_-toṅga-e, _He goes + not_. │ not_. + Plur. 1 pers. _Halu_-neka, _We give│Plur. 1 „ _Tetu_-toṅga-´swi, + not_. │ _We go not_. + „ 2 „ _Ham’_-neka, _You give │„ 2 „ _Tem´_-toṅga-´nwi, _You + not_. │ go not_. + „ 3 „ _Hawa_-neka, _They give│„ 3 „ _Tewa_-toṅga-´wo, _They + not_. │ go not_. + +(In Ki-taveita the negation is always emphasized by repeating _after_ +the verb the full forms of the personal pronoun, such as: mi, ´we, ´nwi, +´swi, &c. Si-tonga-mi would literally be “I am not going, I!” in the +sense of the French, “Je ne vais pas, moi!”) + +A very emphatic negative adverb in Ki-čaga is Ôte, “no, certainly no,” +“not at all.” + +Among the adverbs, prepositions, and conjunctions are:— + + KI-ČAGA. │ KI-TAVEITA. + Na, _and_, _with_. │Na, _and_, _with_. + Ku, _to_. │Ku, _to_. + Wa, _on_. │Ha, _on_. + Kwa, _for_, _in order_. │Kwa, _for_, _in order_. + -a (wa, ya, za, la, &c., according │-a (wa, ya, kia, ǰa, la, &c., + to concord), _of_. │ according to concord), _of_. + Wala, _but_. │Ela, _but_. + Gana, _or_. │ + Kiki? _why?_ │Kini? _why?_ + Neku? Ako? _where?_ │Kahe? _where?_ + + + + + CHAPTER XXI. + THE COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS OF E. EQUATORIAL AFRICA. + + +As an anticipatory reply to the inquiries of such of my readers as may +be of a commercial turn, I conclude this work on the district of +Kilima-njaro by a short summary of its commercial prospects and +capabilities. If in my natural history or geographical statements I +occasionally repeat information already given in previous chapters, I +deprecate the critic’s impatience; I do so because the general reader is +not likely to peruse this chapter, and my commercial friends will +probably not have wasted their time over the other portions of the book; +consequently it will be suggested to neither that he has seen these +facts stated before, while at the same time their reiteration may serve +to accentuate—what I believe to be—their great importance from the point +of view in which this chapter is written. + +Let me, then, first sketch out the physical geography of this country, +which I have broadly described as Eastern Equatorial Africa. For present +purposes, it may be delineated as follows:—By the River Ruvu, or +Pangani, on the south; then westwards, following the 4th degree of south +latitude to the 32nd degree of east longitude, including the basin of +the Victoria Nyanza lake, and round again to the east, from the northern +border of the lake, by Bariṅgo, to Kenia, the Tana river, and the coast. + +The most marked characteristics of this region are its immense isolated +mountain-masses, in most cases volcanic, such as Kenia and Kilima-njaro, +the latter the highest known peak in Africa, its spacious level plains, +or, more strictly speaking, plateaux, and its freedom from marshy or +swampy ground, as contrasted with other parts of Africa. The water +supply is fairly abundant, and equally distributed, though there is but +one river, the Tana, or Pokomo, which is at all navigable. Besides the +huge Victoria Nyanza, there are a few very much smaller lakes, one or +two of which are salt, and the majority fresh. The highlands, up to +10,000 feet, and also the banks and rivers of streams, are generally +clothed with forests of splendid timber, the plateaux are often covered +with scattered bush and short grass—not the terrible giant grass of six +to eight feet high, which obstructs so much of African country; while +many districts I can only compare to beautiful natural lawns, whereon +you meet with springy turf, closely cropped by the browsing antelopes, +and here and there a group of handsome shady trees, disposed with so +much regularity that it would seem as if man and not Nature had planted +them. Such is the country that lies between Paré and Usambara, or in the +vicinity of Lake ǰipé, or again, to the south of Kilima-njaro, and also +in many districts to the north, as we hear from Thomson. + +These vast regions are very unequally populated. On the coast there is a +fringe of slightly civilized races, nominally under the dominion of the +Sayyid of Zanzibar. These people belong principally to the Bantu family +of negroes, which includes all the inhabitants of Africa from the +Victoria Nyanza to the Cape and Fernando Po to Mombasa, with very few +exceptions. There are also Gallas on the north between the Sabaki and +the Dana rivers, a few invading Somalis in the same district, Arabs of +pure blood and Arab hybrids of every degree throughout the length of the +littoral, and about four thousand Banyans and other natives of British +India who come there to trade and sometimes to settle. To add to this +medley of races, there are remains here and there of ancient Persian and +Portuguese colonization, but, as I have before said, the bulk of the +coast population is Bantu-negro, a stock which seems to absorb and +assimilate easily most foreign strains. The lingua-franca spoken is the +celebrated Swahili language, one of the Bantu tongues, which promises to +be the French of Eastern Africa. + +On penetrating inland from the coast, the country is for the first +hundred miles, as a rule, very thinly inhabited, except on certain +mountainous districts, or along the coast of the Ruvu, the Sabaki, or +the Tana rivers, and what people there are belong to the Bantu stock, +and speak languages related to Swahili. Whenever you meet with people +speaking Bantu languages in this part of Africa, you find they are +invariably settled agriculturists, and never nomads. As a contrast to +them, may now be mentioned the celebrated Masai, a negro race of +splendid physical development. The Masai are semi-nomads, that is to +say, each tribe has its home country wherein the married men and women +settle, and move about within a circumscribed radius, while the +warriors, who are forced to remain unmarried, range over immense areas, +for the sake of plunder. These people were once, and are still in a +lesser way, the scourge of Eastern Equatorial Africa. They have made +previously well-populated, prosperous districts abandoned wildernesses, +driving away all the cattle, killing such of the inhabitants as +resisted, and leaving the remainder to die of starvation. But of late +years they no longer play the same havoc. Between the coast and +Kilima-njaro they are rarely to be met with, and in such cases as when +they are encountered away from their homes, the white traveller will not +find them very hard to deal with. Commerce is slowly but surely +humanizing the Masai. They most of them prefer trading to fighting now. +Yearly they are visited by many native caravans from the coast, who go +to buy ivory with iron, wire, cloth, and beads. Certain tribes of the +Masai, generally known as Wa-kwavi by the coast people, have abandoned +entirely this roving robber life, and now occupy large districts as +quiet, thrifty agriculturists. The Masai are all of them great +cattle-keepers, and possess not only innumerable herds of splendid kine, +but also keep numbers of donkeys as beasts of burden. These asses are +very fine animals, resembling exactly the Ethiopean wild ass, from which +stock they are certainly derived. The Masai are a people who in time +will become amenable to civilization, I am sure, and commerce will +temper their wild ways. They are very different from the mad fanatics we +have been fighting in the Soudan, and if all Europeans behave as well to +them as Mr. Joseph Thomson has done, we should soon be welcomed as +traders and settlers in their midst. + +It may be roughly said, then, that between the coast and the Victoria +Nyanza, the plains or plateaux are inhabited by the Masai and their +helot races, and the mountains and mountain-ranges by Bantu people. +These latter evidently occupied the land prior to the incursion of the +Masai from the north, and existed in former times in greater numbers +than at the present day. Of late, however, their fortunes have begun to +revive. Forced, during their struggle for existence, to take to the +highlands that were difficult of access to an invader, they have become +a more hardy, independent race than their relations on the coast, and +have also, in their wish to turn their mountain soil to the best +advantage, become skilful and laborious agriculturists. Now their +relations with the Masai are becoming sensibly improved, the Masai raids +have ceased before the rude fortifications of the hill tribes, and both +parties are able to trade on equal terms. The inhabitants of the +mountains bring their honey and vegetables, their smiths’ work, and +dressed skins, and exchange them against the ivory, rhinoceros horns, +and natron salt that are collected by the rovers of the plains. These +two distinct races, whose contact was formerly so provocative of +bloodshed and rapine, are now exchanging peaceably their products, but +also their ideas, manners, and customs. The Bantu of Kilima-njaro and +Taveita loves to copy the Masai costume and mode of fighting, he +incorporates many Masai words and salutations into his own tongue, while +the once nomadic and restless Masai are increasingly taking to +agriculture in the vicinity of Bantu settlements, and are changing from +lawless robbers into quiet and honest tillers of the soil. + +Around the Victoria Nyanza lake, the population becomes very dense, and +probably the littoral people alone may be estimated at from ten to +twelve millions. With one small exception they are Bantu, and speak +languages of an archaic form, and more resembling the typical Bantu +mother-speech than any other we have yet met with. The exception is a +small enclosure of Nilotic negroes settled in the country of Kavirondo +on the eastern shore of the lake, who have never yet come into contact +with Europeans. We know something of their language from the Swahili +traders, and we find it to belong to the same group as the Šiluk of the +White Nile. + +Besides the races above enumerated, dwarf tribes are reported in the +unknown country lying between the Victoria Nyanza and Kilima-njaro, and +there are also curious helot tribes dwelling among the Masai as hunters +or smiths or slaves, who speak languages of their own, and remain at +present unclassified in their affinities. + +Of all the people I have mentioned in this hasty recapitulation, the +Bantu offers the greatest hope for civilization. He is so industrious, +so imitative, so inquiring, that he is instinctively attracted towards +the white man. He is a born trader, and will travel miles to sell a +fowl, while his appreciation of Manchester stuffs and Birmingham beads +should ensure him the favour of British merchants. + +The animal and vegetable products of this vast region are typically +African. I might reiterate that it is a sportsman’s paradise. Such +quantities of big game were surely never met with elsewhere. If you want +confirmation of my statements on this point, read Mr. Thomson’s book, +“Masai-land.” In some districts you may stand on a hillock and see the +plains at your feet covered with compact herds of antelopes, moving in +squadrons, with straggling companies of giraffes, with scattered flocks +of ostriches. Buffaloes abound so as to be dangerous. Rhinoceroses are +so numerous that their horns are an important item in the trade, for +they may be bought in the interior for a few pence worth of cloth, and +sold on the coast for three and four rupees each. Hippopotami are +abundant in the rivers and lakes. The Vice-Consul at Lamu, on the coast +near the Pokomo river, informs me that when properly prepared (which is +done by cutting the skin into long thin strips and drying it in the +sun), hippopotamus hides will fetch 5_l._ apiece in Natal. But the great +wealth of this country lies in its ivory, which is preferred to any +other in the Zanzibar market. The elephant abounds in the neighbourhood +of Kilima-njaro to the extent of many thousands. He here becomes quite a +mountaineer, and ranges through the magnificent forests that clothe the +upper slopes of this giant among African peaks. The natives waylay his +forest tracks with artfully devised pitfalls and traps, preferring this +more cowardly way of procuring their ivory to facing the elephant in the +chase. Other tribes to the north and west of Kilima-njaro kill the +elephant with poisoned arrows, or javelins, or sharp swords. Indeed, +there is one district on the northern borders of Masai-land where, +according to Mr. Thomson, “elephants are said to swarm unmolested and +their ivory to rot untouched, for the people of the surrounding region +have no trading relations with any one, and do not know the value of +that precious article. A tusk worth 150_l._ in England may be picked up +for nothing, or bought from any native for a pennyworth of beads, &c., +&c.” However this may be, whether the elephants are slain for their +ivory, or whether, as in the tales of Sinbad the Sailor, there are +districts in which the tusks may be simply gathered from among the bones +of elephants who for centuries have died and died unnoticed in these +untravelled wilds, ivory is procured somehow and in such quantities—even +with the absurdly inadequate means of exploitation and porterage—that +there is always more than enough to supply the many native caravans led +by Moslem natives from the coast, which annually traverse this country +between the Indian Ocean and the Victoria Nyanza lake. Another item of +trade should not be forgotten, namely, the valuable and handsome wild +beast skins, which may either be procured in the chase, or very cheaply +purchased from the natives. A leopard skin may be bought for about two +or three shillings’ worth of goods, and will sell on the coast for eight +or nine. Lions’ skins are less easy to obtain from the natives, as that +animal is rarely killed by them, but European sportsmen might shoot him +to any extent, as he is both common and bold. Monkey skins, of the +handsome variety of white-tailed colobus, which is alone found in this +region, are valuable, and fetch a good price on the coast. + +Ostriches are exceedingly numerous in the vicinity of Kilima-njaro. When +living at Taveita in the summer and autumn of 1884, I and my men used to +largely subsist on their eggs, which were brought us in numbers by the +natives, and sold for about a pennyworth of cloth each. Sometimes by +searching we would ourselves discover nests. In the month of October I +bought twelve young ostriches from the natives at the rate of an ell of +cloth apiece. I could have purchased many more, and started an ostrich +farm had I wished, but as I was returning shortly to the coast I did not +feel disposed to commence the undertaking. I tried to bring these young +ostriches away with me, but they all died before reaching Zanzibar, as +they suffered a great deal from the effects of the land transit, being +very young. Of course to any ornithologist this country is exceedingly +interesting, but to those whom I am more immediately addressing, rare or +beautiful birds will not serve as a sufficient inducement for opening up +a new country; still I might remark, for economic reasons, that there +are abundance of guinea fowl, francolin, pigeons, and bustards, and all +these serve materially to supply the traveller with palatable food. + +I cannot say much for the reptiles of this country, as there are few +species which would attract the traveller’s attention, and none which, +as far as I know, would be useful commercially, unless the crocodiles of +Lake ǰipé might furnish some of the leather which is now so fashionable +for dressing-bags; but the very scarcity and unobtrusiveness of the +reptiles is a negative advantage. Like most parts of Africa I have ever +visited, the snakes here are very few and infrequent in their +appearance. Most species, too, are non-venomous. + +In many of the streams, rivers, and lakes there are fish in great +quantities, representing most of the African fresh-water genera. There +are few that are not edible, and some species are remarkably good to +eat, and of considerable size and weight. While at Taveita I was often +able to feed the entire caravan during a week or more on the fish caught +in the small River Lumi; and at ǰipé they are so plentiful that a +fish-smoking establishment, similar to those on the Upper Congo, might +be set going to provide food for long journeys. There are few things +that Swahili porters like better than a fish diet. + +The insects are not likely to offer anything commercially interesting, +nor indeed any of the lower invertebrate forms. I might, however, in +their case lay stress on the same favourable fact as with regard to the +snakes, viz. the scarcity or absence of noxious forms. Thus there is no +_tsetse fly_, such as, but a short distance southward, interferes with +the introduction of horses and cattle. Mosquitoes only exist in certain +districts, near rivers or lakes, and are entirely absent from most parts +of the country. Fleas and bed-bugs are unknown, nor has the American +jigger, which is such a pest on the Congo, been introduced. White ants +are not very numerous, and do not exist at all above a moderate +elevation. The tænia intestinal worm, so often heard of in other parts +of Africa, is here never to my knowledge met with. + +I might mention that a small edible fresh-water crab is found in the +rivers. + +As to the vegetable productions, they are, apart from those cultivated +and introduced by man, certainly valuable. There is particularly fine +timber growing in many parts, particularly on Kilima-njaro and in the +mountainous districts to the northward, and again on the west of the +Victoria Nyanza. The forests in Usambara and in Paré, both districts +near the coast, are full of magnificent lofty trees, which are much +prized at Zanzibar for shipbuilding. On the coast and in Zanzibar, +timber sells for 25 to 50 dollars per 50 cubic feet, according to +quality. + +Gums are produced in the interior, both copal and a kind called false +copal. India-rubber can be procured from at least one creeper, the +_Landolphia florida_, and I think also another, a species of fig. Coffee +grows wild, especially on the northwards of the district, where it is +the same species as the Abyssinian plant, which, it is supposed, being +first introduced from the kingdom of Kaffa to the south of Abyssinia, +thence derives its name. Coffee-planting would succeed admirably in +districts like Usambara, which may be regarded as the natural home of +this shrub, which is, indeed, indigenous to the African continent. I +might mention that cardamums are produced here, and semsem seed is also +largely reported for making spurious olive oil. + +On the trees growing in the Kilima-njaro and Usambara forests, orchilla +weed, in incredible quantities, is found growing. When delivered half +clean, that is to say, mixed with sticks and rubbish, on the coast, it +fetches from 3 to 3½ dollars per frasilah of 35 lbs. + +As regards minerals, iron ore is found in some abundance, and copper +apparently also; since the natives possess rude rings and ornaments of +this metal which have not come from the coast. Nitrate of soda covers +vast plains to the south, west, and north of Kilima-njaro. + +There is good building stone in many parts of the country. Limestone +often appears. + +And now, having briefly noted some of the productions with which this +part of Africa is naturally endowed, I may mention others which owe +their introduction or development to the agency of man. + +Vast herds of cattle are kept not only by the Masai, whose very +_raison-d’être_, as it were, consists in cattle breeding, but also by +the agricultural races on the borders of Lake Victoria Nyanza, and in +the mountain districts everywhere. When I was residing on Kilima-njaro I +not only purchased excellent beef at about ten shillings a bullock, but +also procured daily so much milk that I was able to make cream, butter, +and cheese in plenty. The oxen are not, as a rule, so large as the Cape +breeds, and, indeed, come from quite another stock, being descendants of +Asiatic humped variety—the zebu—introduced into Africa by the ancient +Egyptians. The hides are held in such little account by the natives that +they may be purchased for the merest trifle. As I have already +mentioned, the Masai keep large herds of fine strong asses, which they +are always ready to sell cheaply. + +Goats and sheep are most abundant. The goats are small, plump, and great +milk-givers. The sheep belong to the fat-tailed variety, and offer +really excellent juicy, tender mutton. Those who have visited Usambara +will agree with me that the mountain mutton of East Africa rivals in +tenderness and shortness that furnished by the Welsh and Highland sheep. +Like all African sheep, they are hairy and without wool. Fowls are not +kept by the Masai, but are met with in great quantities on Victoria +Nyanza, and among all of the agricultural Bantu races. On Kilima-njaro +they might be purchased at the rate of one ell of cloth each, averaging +a cost, when the local value of cloth is estimated, of 2½_d._ each. In +two days, at Mandara’s capital, I purchased eighty fowls. Some of them +are a very handsome breed, pure white, with very long tail feathers in +the male. Another variety is plump and dumpy, with exceedingly short +legs. The hens are very good layers. + +The vegetable productions of the natives’ cultivation are the banana, +the sweet potato, the edible arum root, the sugar-cane, Indian corn, +_mtama_, or red millet, and many unnamed varieties of peas and beans. + +A little rice is grown in some districts, namely, at Taveita and on the +River Tana. Tobacco is everywhere abundant, and exceedingly cheap. + +I might mention my own almost incredible experience with the cultivation +of European vegetables on Kilima-njaro. Immediately after my arrival, I +planted the eyes of a few potatoes, onion bulbs, and the seeds of +mustard, cress, radishes, turnips, carrots, peas, beans, spinach, +borage, sage, tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons. Everything came up and +flourished amazingly. In three months’ time I had a dozen fine cucumbers +from one plant, and so many potatoes that I was able to give them away +to my men, as well as supplying my own table. I had everything else in +abundance in a short space of time. Before leaving, I had planted my +land at Taveita with wheat and coffee, limes, oranges, mangoes, and +cocoanuts. I also distributed numbers of useful seeds among the natives. + +I should have mentioned in its proper place before the vegetables, that +there is a great quantity of delicious honey produced throughout this +district. The wax is of very good quality, but the natives have no use +for it, and merely throw it away. + +I might now, perhaps, briefly summarize the principal trade products, +and in some cases give their cost in the interior and on the coast. At +present, no doubt, the most paying thing is ivory. This may be bought in +the Masai countries, between the Victoria Nyanza and the coast, at the +rate of from one to two shillings a pound, according to quality. When I +refer to money in the interior, I mean money’s worth in cloth or other +trade goods. On the coast ivory sells from six to ten shillings a pound, +sometimes reaching a higher price. + +Hides may be almost got for nothing in the interior, and merely cost the +expense of transit. On the coast they are sold, when dry, at about one +dollar for seven pounds. + +Rhinoceros horns I have already alluded to. They find a ready sale on +the coast, fetching on an average, five shillings apiece. + +Live-stock of all kinds may be purchased cheaply in the interior, and +find a ready market on the coast. + +There is even another source of profit in which, although many people +laugh when I suggest it, I see nothing ridiculous, viz. the capture and +sale of wild animals. If it can pay Hamburg and Austrian firms to hunt, +and employ hunters on the confines of Abyssinia, for the purpose of +supplying the zoological gardens of the world with wild animals, why +should not the same thing be done here, where animal life is present to +a degree which puts Abyssinia and the Eastern Soudan to shame. If you +can get from 100_l._ to 200_l._ for a young rhinoceros, elephant, +hippopotamus, or giraffe, with lesser sums, in proportion, for large +antelopes, zebras, buffaloes, ostriches, lions, leopards, snakes, and +crocodiles, surely it is worth while to capture them in districts like +these, that are actually nearer the sea than the hunting-grounds of the +German firms, and where the natives are already familiar with such a +trade, and with the mode of capturing wild animals alive? When I was on +Kilima-njaro and Taveita, the natives were always bringing me live +creatures for sale, and I have already mentioned how cheaply I bought +young ostriches. + +Another important trade product would be orchilla weed, which may be +gathered for nothing in the vast forests of Kilima-njaro. I have already +mentioned its selling price on the coast. + +Iron, copper, and nitrate of soda might pay profit on their transit, +when communications between the coast and interior are facilitated. + +Nevertheless, it is to be admitted that the special wealth of this +country lies in its agricultural future. There are districts that might +become the granaries of the world, possessing, over a large area, a +European climate. There are other regions peculiarly adapted by their +elevation for the culture of quinine. Sugar-cane already grows half +wild, and its cultivation might be increased to any extent. Coffee, tea, +cacao, vanilla, would thrive in countries and districts remarkably +suitable for their favourable growth. Above all, the question arises +that if it can pay people to open up and trade with other parts of +Africa, why should these magnificent fertile lands remain untouched, +when they possess a climate superior in its salubrity to any other part +of the continent? + +In the neighbourhood, and near the base of Kilima-njaro, the greatest +heat I registered was 81°; in the warmest part of the interior, 91°. The +average night temperature in hilly districts is 60°; in the plains, 68°. +Except on the loftiest mountains, and on the Victoria Nyanza lake, where +it rains a few days in every month, the seasons in Eastern Equatorial +Africa are regular in their divisions of wet and dry. From June to the +end of October there is almost no rain, and from November to May there +is an abundant rainfall during certain months. On Kilima-njaro the +climate up to 8000 feet is that of a Devonshire summer; above that +elevation you may have it as cold as you like, the higher you go. + +I hope I have now said sufficient to show you that if Africa is worth +opening up at all, the region which lies between the coast and Victoria +Nyanza is eminently so. There is no doubt that Africa is the New World +of the nineteenth century. What America was to Europe in the sixteenth +and seventeenth centuries, that Africa is now. Within the last two +years, England, France, Germany, Portugal, Spain, Italy, Belgium, and +even Sweden have taken decided steps towards founding African colonies. +Consequently I argue from this that if land in Africa is worth having, +how much more profitable would it be in a fine country with a healthy +climate lying between a great lake and the Indian Ocean. + +Having explained to you that from my point of view this region is worth +possessing, I now wish to indicate to you as briefly as possible the +best way of opening it up to trade and civilization. Selecting some good +port on the coast—and there are three or four to choose from, within a +limit of a hundred miles of coast-line—the expedition should establish +themselves firstly in the healthy and beautiful country of Usambara. The +road to the interior runs either to the north or south of this little +Switzerland, and joins to the west of it. In Usambara the first station +should be established, as the country is very healthy. Here, too, the +land might be sown and planted with all kinds of crop, for the proximity +to the sea would render exportation easy and cheap. From Usambara you +should cross the rich and fertile valley of the Mkomazi river and enter +the hill country of Paré, the trade route continuing along the level +plain at the foot of the hills. The scenery of Paré I can only call +enchanting. There are wooded crags, waterfalls, secluded Alpine valleys, +and splendid views. The people are pleasant to deal with, and food is +plentiful. From Paré you might proceed to Ugwéno, over against Lake +ǰipé, the road still following the plains, and the stations being +established in the hills. From Ugwéno it is a short distance to +Kilima-njaro, which offers splendid sites for large settlements, and has +also no scarcity of food. From Kilima-njaro there are two routes to be +opened up. One, or the most important, leads past Mount Méru, another +pleasant site for a trading station, straight to Speke Gulf, on the +Nyanza. The other is more or less Thomson’s track, leading to Lake +Bariṅgo and the north-west. This is the richest country for ivory. +Hither every year come the Swahili caravans, who trade nearly to the +borders of Abyssinia and the Nile. In all important districts stations +might be founded after Stanley’s style along the Congo, and these would, +in time, become centres of civilization, cultivation, and trade. +Although there is no doubt that a railway, under British auspices, made +to connect the Victoria Nyanza with the coast, would give the entire +trade of Eastern Central Africa into our hands, yet such an enterprise +seems at present utterly impossible. British capitalists, shipowners, +and manufacturers have lost the spirit of “merchant adventurers,” and +now regard every venture that does not immediately promise interest on +preliminary outlay, with pardonable timidity. Nevertheless, it seems to +me that there are still young energetic men in our country who love a +roving life, and who do not shrink from entering the wild regions of +Africa because there is no railway to take them. Such as these flock +year after year into the unpleasing regions between the Cape Colony and +the Zambesi, attracted by the love of sport or a sheer unreasoning, +English desire to pry into new countries. Why do not some of them band +together, and instead of spending their money, time, and energies on +barren Bechuana-land, boldly push into the countries west and north of +Kilima-njaro, trading, shooting, and exploring? I can at least promise +them far greater abundance of game than in the much shot over regions of +South Africa, while they will never be likely to meet with such +unhealthy districts as the Zambesi valley. “But the Masai?” people +timidly suggest. Well, the Masai are not, after all, worse than the +Kaffirs, Zulus, or even Hottentots were to the first explorers of +Southern Africa. They want a little managing, that is all, and every +fresh European will—or ought to—find his path smoothed by his +predecessors. Besides, in some of the finest country there are no Masai. +Along the direct route between the Victoria Nyanza and the coast only a +strip of about 100 miles, viz. about a fourth of the distance, is ranged +over by Masai and is annually traversed by Swahili caravans. + +The first consideration in the development of this country is to +encourage trade and create agriculture. Along many of the native tracks, +as they at present exist, there is no obstacle for stout waggons, at any +rate, as far into the interior as the precincts of Méru and +Kilima-njaro, that is to say, half way to the Victoria Nyanza. Mules in +plenty may be purchased in Zanzibar, and will do well in the country, or +asses might be bought from the Masai. Oxen, doubtless, might also be +trained to draw waggons as on the coast. As I have before remarked, +_there is no tsetse fly_ in the country, so that even horse-breeding +might be attempted in time.[91] Human labour is plentiful on the coast +and fairly cheap. You may hire good stout carriers at the rate of five +dollars a month, and the cost of their food is about twopence a day. +Many of these men make very decent soldiers and guards, as Stanley has +found on the Congo. As a rule the Zanzibar porters are faithful, +trustworthy men—I have always found them so, and have even discovered +very fine qualities in their nature too. At any rate, if they fall out +with a white man it is generally his fault; a very little discipline, +together with a kind and quiet manner, will always keep them in order. +Many of them can read and write their own language in the Arabic +character, so that if you wish to communicate with them at a distance +you can do so by letter. The cost of keeping these men in the country +would very much lessen after the first year or two, as you might soon +grow sufficient food on your plantations to support the entire +expedition. These Zanzibaris are very easily satisfied. They will +subsist tranquilly on a few handfuls of maize a day, or a little rice +and dried fish, or simply bananas; while if you manage to bring down +some zebra or antelope with your rifle they are overjoyed. In two days +ten men will construct you a spacious dwelling with a grass-thatched +rain-tight roof, and in a much shorter time will build their own simpler +habitations. They are singularly handy, and can plant gardens, make +roads, trap animals, cure skins, construct bird-cages, wash clothes, +mend them, make them, cook a dinner, and arrange a nosegay with equal +facility. They are much more ingenious than English navvies, much more +enduring of hardships, and much more courteous in behaviour. Without +doubt, they are the means, the force, by which Eastern Africa will be +opened up. + +The white men who should form the pioneers of any commercial enterprise +in Central Africa must be young, vigorous, and active, not, as they are +so often, _usé_, battered men, who have failed in other careers, and try +Africa as a last chance. They should possess sufficient education to be +inspired with an intelligent interest in the wonderful nature that will +surround them. There is no more miserable person in Africa than your +utterly uncultured man; he pines and sickens for want of sympathy with +his surroundings, while he who is so far alive to natural history as to +be moved by the interesting fauna and flora of Equatorial Africa will +never be lonely, nor have time to be ill. If any of them have a taste +for sport, he will be never unhappy, for this country surely offers, +without exception, the most splendid hunting-ground in the world. Nor, +in such a case, will his sport be mere useless butchery of beautiful +animals. He will be able to supply his caravan with fresh meat, at no +expense, and may secure many valuable skins and hides. In the case of +elephants, a sportsman is a positive acquisition to the party, as he can +procure ivory for nothing. I have, personally, known men in Southwestern +Africa who have made their fortunes over ivory and ostrich feathers. + +That the opening-up of this country would secure a new field for +commerce, I am convinced. Wherever I went the natives were anxious to +trade—more anxious to trade than to fight, always. Constantly they have +said to me, “Why won’t you come here, and set up a shop”—for shop they +employ the word _duka_, which the Swahilis have taught them—“and let us +exchange our goods for yours?” At places nearly two hundred miles from +the coast I have found people who had never seen a white man before, in +the possession of Maria Theresa dollars and Indian rupees, with which +they came to buy cloth from me. They had, of course, received this +currency from the coast traders, but it only shows they are beginning to +understand the value of money; nay, more, Mandara, the chief of Moši, on +Kilima-njaro, wanted me to open a banking account for him at Zanzibar, +and he had a distinct though crude idea of drawing cheques. Even the +fiercest people here have wants for extraneous things that must be +satisfied. Then again, if you introduce commerce and a ready market, you +suppress the slave trade. Chiefs now sell their people into slavery +because the Arabs will not buy anything else, slaves being the most +profitable investment for the coast trader; but once convince them—and +Africans are much more practical than you think—that more money is to be +gained by employing their serfs to cultivate the soil at home and +produce food stuffs and other products for sale, and I am sure the +expatriation of these wretched people will cease. Again, at the present +moment one chief makes war against another to procure prisoners and sell +them as slaves, but commercial instinct will introduce peace by turning +the sword into a reaping-hook, and covering the devastated fields with +fair and marketable harvests. These people are well worthy of +civilization—yes, even the fierce and roving Masai, who are already +being softened wherever they impinge on the rendezvous of coast trade. + +I would suggest that in any undertaking to open up Eastern Equatorial +Africa, Kilima-njaro should be made the centre of operations, both on +account of its fine climate and the placability of its inhabitants, and +for the further reason that the intervening country between Kilima-njaro +and the coast is quite safe for travelling. + +I have no doubt some, if not many, of my readers have received several +of these statements with irritable incredulity. It is, somehow or other, +vaguely annoying to the placid nature of an Englishman, who has made +enough to live on and only wants to live quietly, to come across +travellers—whose works he skims through in his easy-chair—that insist on +bringing to his notice new and wonderful tracts of land which are +possible El Dorados, and in which he _must_ take an interest and invest +his money, or they will never leave him in peace and will constantly din +into his ears the appalling news that he has let slip an unrecoverable +opportunity of showing his patriotism and his commercial perspicacity. +How well we know those cries and laments that ever and anon sweep +through the public press and assail John Bull at his breakfast-table or +worry his return from business. “You have lost the granary of Africa, or +the granary of America,” as the case may be. “You are about to abandon +the garden of Asia to the French, Russians, Germans!” and so on. I must +say I rather sympathize with my readers if they display any restless +petulance after reading such a chapter as this. The feeling arises +partly from a lurking conviction of an element of truth in the +statements, and partly from resentment at not being allowed to ignore +these advantages which they must either take up themselves or see pass +into the hands of aliens. “Why can’t you let us alone?” they feel +inclined to exclaim, “we’ve got quite enough for our immediate wants, we +have no need to embark in fresh enterprises.” Or they try to satisfy +themselves and crush their disturber by anxiously endeavouring to oppose +argument to argument and disprove all beguiling statistics. Yes, I am +very sorry, dear reader, if I have worried and bored you by inserting a +leaf or two of commercial propaganda into what you thought, when you +ordered it from the library, was just going to be an average African +book—adventures with lions, tossings by buffaloes, encounters with nasty +natives, and so on. Believe me, I have done so disinterestedly. I am not +an African trader, nor do I intend to be. I am not getting up a company +to develop East Africa and speculate in land. If a railway is made to +Kilima-njaro, I shall probably hear of its accomplishment from the +forests of Borneo or the snow-peaks of the Andes, and remember I once +visited that part of the world. Scientific pursuits and a love of +rambling have led me to this richly endowed region as they may next year +lead me elsewhere, and I have thought it well to let my countrymen know +what advantages it possesses, so that when British merchants and +philanthropists are bewailing the loss of the great African sanatorium, +they cannot at least plead ignorance of its existence or advantages. + +Having said this much I leave my poor remarks to the kind consideration +of the general public, by whom, and Mr. Mudie, we authors of a day +receive our _raison-d’être_. + + + + + INDEX. + + + NOTE. All African names of countries, languages, or peoples, which are + not found under the initial letter in this index, should be looked for + under the initial of the root-form. Thus for Ki-taveita (the language + of Taveita), see Taveita, Ki-; for Usambara, Sambara, U-; Wa-čaga, + Čaga, Wa-; Bu-nyoro, Nyoro, Bu-. Inasmuch as the prefix in these cases + constantly varies with the meaning of the root, it is necessary to + recognize the unvarying root, alone, in this index. + + Abdallah, 61, 131, 146, 189, 190, 199, 225, 239, 302. + + Abyssinia, 2, 3, 5, 98, 334, 353, 363, 398, 452, 545, 551. + + Acacia, 55, 74, 81, 117, 137, 209, 329, 336. + + Aden, 15, 320, 321. + + Africa, flora of, 334, _et seq._; + resources of, 148. + + ——, Eastern, 308, 323, 535, _et seq._ + + ——, languages of, 446. + + Agreement with Mandara, 110. + + —— —— Elders of Taveita, 211. + + Albert Nyanza, the, 297, 400. + + “Albino, my,” 304. + + _Albizzia_, 209. + + _Alcelaphus Cokei_, 65, 301, 355. + + Aloes, 51, 90, 92, 117, 154, 229, 330, 336. + + Alphabet, Lepsius’ Standard, ix, 476, _et seq._ + + Alps, the, 5. + + —— —— African, 3. + + America, 3, 4, 9, 274. + + _Anas_, 359. + + Anemones, 234, 336. + + Ant-bear, 300, 353, 424. + + Antelopes, 216, 218, 300, 310, 355. + + —— and ant-hills, 65, 355. + + Ant-hills, 65, 355. + + Anthropology, 395–445. + + Ants, 176, 220, 296. + + Arabia, 335. + + Arabic, 460. + + Arab mongrels, 98. + + Arabs, 6, 8, 97, 105, 181, 210, 308, 311, 314, 403, 408. + + Arab town, an, 316. + + Arnold, Edwin, vii. + + _Artemisia_, 235, 334, 335. + + Arums, 119, 442, 487. + + Aruša, 397, 405. + + Aryan languages, 460, 466, 480, 488. + + Asses, 210, 304, 421, 423, 538, 546. + + Association, British, 3, 6, 245. + + Athmani, 58, 61, 131, 186, _et seq._, 247, _et seq._ + + Author, the, entrusted with command of Kilima-njaro Expedition, 6; + arrives at Zanzibar, 16; + falls ill, 41; + asserts sway over porters, 48; + is miserable at Kitimbiriu, 194; + rejects Mandara’s ultimatum, 196; + is besieged, 197; + frames projects of escape, 200; + endures great anxiety, 200; + resolves to quit Moši, 204; + falls into ambush, 206; + catches leopard in trap, 211; + goes hunting, 216, _et seq._; + ascends Kilima-njaro, 229, _et seq._, 259, _et seq._; + flight from Wa-kibošo, 237; + takes leave of Mandara, 240; + frees Mabruki’s slaves, 248; + enters Maranu, 251; + humours its chief, 256; + has accident to knee-cap, 261, _et seq._; + ascends Kibô, 266; + returns to camp, 276; + muses on the possibilities of a European settlement, 286; + has difficulties with Wa-rombo, 288; + anxiety to avoid bloodshed, 288; + fights with Wa-rombo, 293; + receives deputation of Wa-rombo, 295; + sets out for coast, 297; + ill at Lake ǰipe, 299; + meets the Masai, 303: escapes by a _ruse_, 303; + enjoys mute hospitality at the Pangani Mission-station, 316, _et + seq._; + voyages in Arab dau, 318; + returns to Zanzibar, 319; + reaches London, 321. + + + Baboons, 118, 212, 223, 310, 350, 351. + + Baker, Sir Samuel, 450. + + “Baloza,” the, 98, 100, 104, 106, 187, 226, 257. + + Balsams, 92, 148, 230, 330. + + Banana, the, 442, 487. + + —— beer, 175. + + —— plantations, 75, 88, 91, 117, 118, 124, 209, 287, 289, 307. + + —— leaves, 140, 155. + + Bananas (fruit), 148, 151, 155, 193, 212, 215, 264, 306, 424. + + ——, Wild (_Musa Ensete_), 209, 331, _et seq._, 336. + + Bantu, meaning of the word, 478, 488. + + —— languages, 151, 288, 313, 424, 426, 447, 474, _et seq._, 478, _et + seq._ + + Bantu races, 78, 247, 312, 396, _et seq._, 539, _et seq._ + + Baobab-trees, 304, 329, 336, 430. + + Barawuio, Em-, 313, 407. + + Barbel, a, 363. + + Bari people, 397, 421. + + —— language, 400, 450, _et seq._, 455, 466, 474, 481, 501, _et seq._ + + Baringo, Lake, 397, 450, 536, 551. + + “Baroni,” the (Baron v. d. Decken), 10, 101, 106. + + Bats, 352. + + Battle with Wa-kibošo, 177. + + _Bauhinia_, 80. + + Beads (for trading), 45, 154; + (ornaments of), 429. + + Beans, 149, 155, 442, 547. + + Bed, a native’s, 214. + + Bees, 92, 363, 424, 485. + + Beetles, 5, 260, 363, 372–377. + + Begonias, 230, 260. + + Belgians, 99. + + Bell, Prof. Jeffrey, on a nematoid worm, 364. + + Berber language, 429, 475. + + Birds, 5, 192, 356–361, 377–387, 543. + + Blackberries, 154, 155, 193. + + Blair, General, 15, 321. + + Bleek, Dr., 446, 448, 488. + + Blessbok, the, 354. + + Blood-drinking, 425, 442. + + Bloody scene, a, 176. + + _Bombax_ tree, 329. + + Bondei, Wa-, 398. + + Boni, Wa-, 401 (language), 401, 501. + + Bonney, Professor, on the geology of Kilima-njaro, 328. + + _Borassus flabelliformis_, 154, 329. + + Borneo, 4. + + Bracken fern, 118, 125, 151, 330, 336. + + Brambles, 117, 154, 230, 330. + + Bread, 83, 143, 148. + + Breakfast-table, 143, 148. + + British Association, the, 3, 6, 245. + + —— Ensign, Mandara’s request for, 100. + + _Buceros_, 356, _et seq._ + + Buffalo, 66, 164, 216, 267, 277, 279, 287, 354, 485, _et seq._, 540. + + Bulom language, 480. + + Bura of Taita, 64, 65, 287. + + Bushbuck, the, 354. + + Bushmen, 427, 447, 482, 484. + + Butter, 142, _et seq._, 148, 155, 193. + + Buttercups, 336. + + Butterflies, 5, 14, 192, 194, 235, 363, 367. + + —— feeding on blood, 176. + + + Calophyllum, 329. + + Cameroons, the, Mountains, 3, 335, 352, 489. + + Camp at Habari, 83; + at Mkuyuni, 85; + at Mandara’s, 90; + on Kilima-njaro, 233, 260; + at Maraṅu, 253; + in Msai (Kimawenzi), 285; + River Lumi, 292; + delights of, 83; + meals in, 84. + + —— of Masai, 304. + + _Canis_, 353. + + Cannibalism, 352. + + Cape of Good Hope, 5, 335. + + Carapace of kites’ feathers, 170. + + Cardamums, 545. + + _Carduus_, 267. + + _Carnivora_, 352. + + Carrots, 131, 149, 547. + + Cattle, 315, 421, 486, 545. + + —— of Africa, 421, _et seq._, 441. + + —— of Wa-čaga, 441. + + —— of Masai, 304, 421, 538. + + _Cephalophus_, 354. + + Cephas, the cook, 62, 106, 131, 146, 179, 190, 237. + + _Cercopithēcus_, 352. + + Chameleon, 260, 361. + + Champagne, 52, 53. + + Chella Mountains (Angola), 279, 310, 354. + + Chervil, 234, 268. + + Chief, the, of Mačame, 9, 124. + + —— Maraṅu, 255, _et seq._ + + —— Paré, 306. + + —— Usambara, 307. + + Cicadas, 222. + + Circumcision, 487. + + —— of Wa-čaga, 438. + + —— of Masai, 412 (and foot-note). + + —— of Wa-taveita, 433. + + Civet, 353. + + Clematis, 87, 148, 336. + + Climate of Kilima-njaro, 299, 322, _et seq._, 549; + (Kitimbiriu), 194. + + _Clitorea_, 37, 51, 329. + + Cloth, for trade, 44; + a “hand” of, 155. + + Clouds on Kilima-njaro, 136, _et seq._, 154, 208. + + Clover, 121. + + _Cobus_ antelopes, 310. + + Cocoa-nut, 59. + + —— palm, 329. + + Coffee, 148, 544, 545, 549. + + Cold, at Kitimbiriu, 145; + on higher levels, 275, 280. + + _Coleoptera_, 372–377. + + Collectors, natural history, 12, 13, 136, 192. + + _Collocasia_, 424, 442. + + _Colobus Guereza_, _var._ caudatus, 37, 174, 352. + + —— Kirkii, 37, 38. + + Colobus skins, 89, 170, 174, 414, 542. + + _Commelyna_, 50, 329. + + Commerce of Kilima-njaro district, 535, _et seq._ + + Congo, River, 2, 6, 98, 99, 149, 210, 350, 442, 482, 551. + + “Concord,” the, in Aryan languages, 461; + in Bantu, 459, 490; + in Ki-čaga, &c., 499, _et seq._; + in Galla, 460; + in Hottentot, 460; + in Semitic languages, 460. + + Cooley, Mr. Desborough, 9. + + Copal, 544. + + Copper, 487, 545, 548. + + _Corissa_, 51. + + Cow, 121, 131, 142, 147, 148, 155, 198, 304. + + Crabs, 363, 365, 544. + + Cream, 142, 143, 193. + + Creepers, strange, 82. + + _Crinum_ lilies, 37, 51. + + Crocodiles, 298, 361, 443, 543. + + Crotons, 37. + + Crows, 176, 304. + + Cucumbers, 131, 149, 547. + + Cust, Mr., R.N., 446, 478. + + Cycads, 329. + + _Cynocephalus_, 350. + + _Cynoglossum_, 235, 267, 333. + + Čaga, 8, 96, 135, 210, 215, 250, 299, 326, 351, 443. + + ——, agriculture of, 125, 440. + + ——, climate of, 139. + + ——, Wa- (people of), 78, 91, 95, 96, 97, 123, 154, 210, 213, 229, 233, + 238, 249, 398, 428, 436, _et seq._; + domestic animals of, 441, _et seq._; + their huts, 91, 157; + mode of fighting, 175, 176; + swords, 176; + smiths, 440; + utensils, 440; + their language (Ki-čaga), 95, 111, 157, 161, 252, 289, 494, _et seq._ + + Čala, Lake, 281, 290. + + + “Dacca,” s.s., 321. + + Dahalo, Wa-, 401. + + Daus, Arab, 25, 318. + + Day, a typical, at Kitimbiriu, 144, _et seq._ + + Decency, natives’ want of, 76, 90, 433, 437. + + Decken, Baron von der, 9, 10, 12, 101, 106, 190. + + _Didunculus_, 4. + + _Dierama_, 267. + + Digo, A-, 398. + + Diṅka language, 400, 421, 451, 475, 501, _et seq._ + + Dishes, wooden, of Wa-čaga, 142. + + _Dissotis_, 92, 121, 147. + + Dodo, the, 4. + + Dogs of Kilima-njaro, 353; + of Masai, 421, 423. + + Doko people, The, 431. + + Domestic animals, 421, 441, 486. + + Donkey, _vide_ Ass. + + Doorway, Čaga, 157, 229. + + ——, Taveita, 74. + + ——, Maraṅu, 250. + + Dorobo, En-, 294, 401, 402, 424, 448. + + Dowding, Captain, 320. + + _Dracæna_, 90, 117, 151, 154, 172, 229, 330, 336. + + Drakensberg Mountains, 334. + + Ducks, 298, 359. + + ——, Muscovy, 294, 296, 484. + + Dwarf races, 400. + + Δaičo, Wa-, 379, 432. + + + Earrings of Masai, 410, 431; + of Wa-taita, 430. + + Eastern Africa, _see_ Africa, Eastern. + + Efik language, 480. + + Eggs, 143, 148, 155. + + Egrets, 298, 359. + + Egypt, 15, 321, 484. + + Egyptians, Ancient, 421, 546. + + _Elaïs_ palm, 329. + + Elands, 66, 301, 310, 354. + + Elche, palm groves of, 311. + + Elephant-gun, 167. + + Elephants, 206, 207, 233, 260, 279, 213, _et seq._, 287, 294, 310, 354, + 485, 541. + + Emin-Bey, Dr., 450. + + Enciso, 7. + + En-dorobo, _vide_ Dorobo, En-. + + England, 99. + + English (Wa-ingrezi), 99, 310. + + —— “Manowari,” 100, 135. + + —— Mission, 317. + + —— vegetables, 131, 149. + + Equator, snow under the, 3, 8, 9. + + _Equus_, 354. + + Erhardt, Rev., 448, 452. + + _Erica_, 233, 261. + + Euphorbias, 51, 58, 81, 307, 312. + + European settlements on Kilima-njaro, 286, _et seq._, 290, 298. + + _Euryops_, 270, 333. + + “Everlasting” flowers, 233, 235, 270, 333, 334. + + Expedition, the Kilima-njaro, 3. + + —— —— ——,funds for, 3, 13, 14, 296. + + + Famine in East Africa, 1884, 215. + + Faraǰi, 61, 131, 146, 147, 229, 299. + + Fariǰala, 131, 146. + + Farler, Archdeacon, 403. + + Fauna of Kilima-njaro, 350–394. + + Fauna and flora of Kilima-njaro, 3, 5, 12. + + —— —— —— —— high mountains and islands, 4, 5. + + —— —— ——, ancient, of Africa, 6. + + Ferns, 117, 230, 231, 235, 260, 269, 330, 334, 336. + + ——, tree-, 231, 260, 333, 336. + + Fever caught at Zanzibar, 41; + at ǰipé, 299. + + ——, causes of, 41. + + Fig-trees, 329. + + Fire, making, 436. + + Fireworks, author’s display of, 179, 188, 294. + + Fischer, Dr., 12, 13. + + Fish, 209, 212, 213, 298, 363, 434, 441, 543. + + Flies, 176. + + Flora of Kilima-njaro, 267, _et seq._, 329, _et seq._, 335, _et seq._, + 337–349. + + —— —— Abyssinia, 334, _et seq._ + + —— —— South Africa, 334, _et seq._ + + Flour, maize, 83, 148; + millet, 155. + + Fly-catcher, 356. + + Food in Africa, 84. + + Forests of Bura, 65; + enchanted, 59, 81; + of Kilima-njaro, 152, _et seq._, 233; + of Kimawenzi, 282, _et seq._; + of Paré, 306, _et seq._, 544; + of Taveita, 74, 80, 209, 322, 330; + terrors of the, 285; + of Usambara, 310, 544. + + Forge, a Čaga, 440. + + Forget-me-nots, 336. + + Fowls, 142, 143, 147, 155, 158, 198, 213, 294, _et seq._, 421; + introduction of, into Africa, 483, _et seq._, 546. + + Francolin, 218, 358, 343. + + French (Wa-fransa), 22, 99. + + Frere Town, 42. + + Frogs, 362; + tree-, 222. + + Frost, 233. + + Fula people (Fulbe), 452. + + —— language (Fulde), 447, 451, 452, 474, 478. + + + Galago, the, 37, 352. + + Galla Land, 398, 401, 432, 438. + + —— language, 401, 450, _et seq._, 460, 474, _et seq._, 479, 501, _et + seq._ + + —— people, 210, 312, 398, _et seq._ + + Game, big, 216, 301, 354. + + —— country, _the_, 219, 301. + + Ganda, Bu-, 210, 483; + Lu- (the language), 400, 479, 483, 488, 490. + + Gazelles, 354. + + Geese, 298, 359. + + Gender, recognition of in Bantu, 474. + + —— —— —— —— Galla, 474, 475. + + —— —— —— —— Masai, 474. + + —— —— —— —— Semitic, 474. + + Genet, 353. + + Geographical Society, Royal, 10, 11, 14. + + —— —— of Paris, 8. + + —— education of British youth, 2. + + Geography, physical, of the Kilima-njaro district, 322, 395, 535, _et + seq._ + + Geology of Kilima-njaro, 328, _et seq._ + + Geraniums, 235, 336. + + Germans, the (Wa-dači), 99, 100, 314. + + Giraffe, the, 216, 301, 310, 354, 485, 540. + + Gissing, Capt., 15, 41, 48, 130. + + Gladioli, 230, 267, 333. + + Gnu, the, 66, 310, 354. + + Goats, 90, 91, 121, 128, 142, 145, 147, 155, 158, 172, 198, 211, 213, + 227, 264, 294, _et seq._, 315, 422, 441, 546. + + God, names of, 215, 430, 438. + + Godman, Mr. F. D., on the lepidoptera of Kilima-njaro, 367. + + Gonǰa, 307, _et seq._ + + Gora, 48, 49, 51. + + Grammar, Masai, 455–476. + + _Graphic_, plates from, 46. + + _Graphiurus_, 354. + + Grasses, 119. + + Great personages, 101. + + Greffulhe, M., 401. + + Guinea-fowls, 310, 358, 543. + + Guides from Maraṅu, 259, 263, 280, 285. + + Gums, 544. + + Gwéno, Ki-, 125, 494, _et seq._ + + ——, U-, 65, 125, 286, 297, 443, 550. + + ——, Wa-, 125, 210, 297, 396, 398, 428, 443. + + + “Habari” River, 82, 207. + + Haggard, Lieut., 15. + + Hamitic languages, 398, 447, 460, 474, 475, 478. + + “Hand” of cloth, 155. + + Handford, Rev. J., 41. + + Hartebeests, 65, 66, 301, 354, 355. + + Hausa language, 447, 475, 478. + + Heaths, 233, 235, 261, 334, 336. + + Helot tribes, 424. + + Hemlock, 234. + + Herero, Oči-, language, 493. + + _Hibiscus_, 37, 87, 92, 148, 330. + + Hides, 547, _et seq._ + + Hindus at Zanzibar, 27, 28. + + —— —— Pangani, 316, 317. + + Hippopotami, 298, 354, 443, 485, 486, 541. + + _Hippotragus niger_, 69, 301, 354. + + _Hippotragus equinus_, 224. + + Honey, 65, 92, 148, 155, 264, 424, 442, 547. + + —— boxes, 93. + + —— guide (_indicator_), 424. + + Hornbills, 356, _et seq._ + + Hottentot languages, 447, 460, 474, 480. + + Houses, building at Kitimbiriu, 139, 143. + + —— of Gonǰa, 307. + + —— —— Masai, 420. + + Hunters, native, 66, 216, 220. + + Hunting and travel, 68. + + Hyena, 162, 195, 211, 220, 222, 353, 423, 434, 439. + + ——, a human, 217. + + _Hyphœne Thebaïca_, 154, 310, 329. + + Hyraxes, 234, 264, 279, 354. + + + Ibrahim, 63, 131, 146, 303. + + Ichneumon, 353. + + Indian corn, 151, 155. + + India, 308, 335, 363. + + India-rubber, 544. + + —— creeper, 336, 544. + + _Indicator_, 424. + + _Insectivora_, 352. + + Insects, 544. + + Irises, 234, 235, 267, 333. + + Iron, 297, 440, 487, 545, 548. + + Irrigation of plantations, 139, 149, 441. + + Ivory, 210, 294, 424, 541, 547. + + + Jackal, 353. + + “Japan,” 4. + + _Java_, the, 15. + + J̌emsi, En-, 210, 397. + + J̌ipé, Lake, 66, 72, 125, 287, 297, _et seq._, 310, 321, 359, 363, 407, + 443, 543. + + “Johnston,” 76. + + J̌ub, River, 401. + + J̌umba Kimemeta, 98, 184, 185. + + J̌uwano people, 401. + + + Kadu Stanley, 63, 131, 139, 149, 225, 239. + + Kaffir language, 483, 488. + + Kahe, Wa-, 398, 428, 443. + + Kamasia, 397. + + Kamba, A-, 78, 210, 220, 397, 399, 428, 431. + + ——, Ki-, 494. + + Kambani, U-, 210, 287, 397. + + Kaputei, 397. + + Kara, Wa-, 397. + + Kavirondo, 210, 397, 399, 401, 540. + + Kenia, Mount, 2, 8, 9, 397, 418, 431, 536. + + Kibô, 1, 7, 10, 80, 105, 110, 124, 129, 136, 147, 152, 229, 234, 266, + _et seq._, 277, 298, 335. + + Kiboṅoto, 443. + + Kibôšo, 165, 181, 244, 443. + + ——, people of (Wa-kibôšo), 169, 175, 177, _et seq._, 226, 233, 235, + 236, _et seq._, 262, _et seq._ + + ——, war with, 194. + + ——, Mandara’s armies defeated by, 200. + + _Kigelia Africana_, 37. + + Kihuṅgwe, 309. + + Kikoro, 210, 407. + + Kikuyu, Wa-, 397, 432. + + Kilaki, 228, 232. + + Kilema, 443; + Upper, 262. + + ——, River, 85, 260. + + Kilima-njaro, Mount, 1, 6, 7, 9, 80, 226, 300, 310, 320, 396, 418; + altitude of, 1, 2, 10, 276; + anthropology of, 395–445; + ascents of, 10, 11; + beetles of, 372–394; + birds of, 356–394; + butterflies of, 367; + climate of, 323, _et seq._; + colonization of, 122; + derivation of name, 1; + discovery of, 7; + early history of, 6; + European visitors to, 7, _et seq._, 79, 100, 101; + Expedition, vii., 3, 12, 14; + fauna of, 350–394; + fauna and flora of, 3, 5, 12; + flora of, 234, 329, _et seq._, 330, 337–349; + first sight of, 71; + geology of, 1; + languages of, 448–496; + last view of, 298; + mammals of, 350–387; + northern side of, 10, 294; + poem to, v., 336; + politics of, 79, 182, 244; + pronunciation of, x; + purpose in going to, 180, 245; + reptiles of, 361; + sanatorium, a future, 306; + situation and extent of, 1, 3, 327; + snows of, 1, 3, 8, 9, 14, 79, 137, 325; + spurs on buttresses of, 119, 127; + start for, 40; + states of, 232; + by sunrise, 137; + vicinity of, 72, 215. + + Kimaṅgelia, 294, 326, 443. + + Kimawenzi, 1, 10, 80, 124, 152, 234, 260, 264, 273, 286, 325. + + Kingfisher, 149. + + Kini Balu, Mount, 5. + + Kioṅgwe, 60, 61, 102, 104, 106, 116, _et seq._, 185, 204, _et seq._, + 212, 225, 239, 246, 303, 315. + + Kirk, Sir John, iii., 13, _et seq._, 94, 98, 100, 109, 180, 182, 184, + 225, 226, 240, 256, 281, 319; + house of, 20, 21, 23; + at home, 39; + at Mbwéni, 38. + + Kirua, 165, 181, 244, 443. + + Kisiwani, 306. + + Kisolutini, 42, 48. + + Kisoṅgo, 397, 404, 407. + + Kitchen-garden, author’s, 131, 142, 149. + + Kites, 128, 356. + + Kitimbiriu, walk to, 118; + site for, 120; + arrival at, 121; + position of, 122; + future of, 122; + view from, 123; + residence in, 129, 142, _et seq._; + typical day at, 144, _et seq._; + author leaves, August 18th, 206; + returns to, 212, 229, 238; + remembrance of, 320. + + Kiulu Mountains, 287, 396. + + Konono, El-, 402, 411, 421. + + Kosova, 397. + + Krapf, Dr. (the missionary), 8, 9, 130, 432, 446, 448, 452, 489. + + Kudu, 277, 279, 354. + + Kwavi, Wa- (Masai), 78, 210, 312, _et seq._, 396, _et seq._, 405, _et + seq._, 419, 424, 432. + + + Labio, 363. + + Laikipia, 397. + + Laitokitok, 397, 404. + + Lamu, 15, 398, 401, 541. + + _Landolphia florida_, 544. + + Landscapes, descriptive, 65, 80, 88, 124, 127, 129, 137, 152, _et + seq._, 156. + + Lanes, the Ċaga, 229, 230. + + Laṅgo, language of, 450. + + Languages of Africa, 446. + + —— —— Kilima-njaro, 448, _et seq._ + + Lanjora, 70. + + “Laputa,” 71. + + Last, Mr., 449. + + Latuka people, 397. + + —— language, 450, _et seq._, 455, 501. + + Lava, 264, _et seq._ + + Lawson, Mr. Ed. L., vii. + + League, hostile, of Kibôso, &c., 204. + + Legend of Solomon, 129. + + Leighton, Sir Frederick, 32. + + Leopards, 66, 152, 164, 211, 284, 352, 485, 542. + + _Lepidoptera_, 367. + + Lepsius, Dr. (Standard Alphabet), ix, 446, 451. + + Lilies, 301. + + Limestone, 301, 545. + + Lions, 66, 73, 85, _et seq._, 137, 152, _et seq._, 156, 162, 211, 216, + 222, 352, 485, 542. + + _Lissochilus_ orchids, 51. + + Lizard, 235, 361. + + _Lobelia Deckeni_, 267, 333. + + _Lonchitis pubescens_, 332. + + _Loranthus_, 154. + + Lumbwa, 397. + + Lumi River (of Taveita), 79, 218, 220, 288, 289, _et seq._, 297, 326, + 434. + + Lūr language, 400, 451, 501. + + Luvu River, _vide_ Ruvu. + + + Mabruki, 57, 61, 131, 185, _et seq._, 191, 247, _et seq._ + + Mačame, 9, 124, 443. + + Madagascar, 5, 485. + + Madi language, 450. + + Magdišu, 17. + + Magic, 159, 160. + + Magician, author a, 264, 294, 295. + + Maidens, African, 151. + + Maize (Indian corn), 151, 155, 424, 442. + + Makonde language, 493. + + Malindi, 17, 326, 401. + + Mamba, 244, 286, 443. + + Mammals of Kilima-njaro, 350, 387–394. + + Mandara, vii., 11, 79, 89, 90, _et seq._, 109, 114, _et seq._, 130, + 155, 213, 225, _et seq._, 236, _et seq._, 287, 314, 319, 404, 555; + appearance of, 91, 103, 106; + biography of, 95, _et seq._; + courtiers of, 88, 106, 108, 131, 175, 181, 183, 186, _et seq._, 241; + covetousness of, 188; + character of, 206; + conversations with, 105, 134, 169, 181, 202; + first sight of, 103; + fortifications 172; + Mandara and Mabruki, 187, _et seq._; + mother of, 96; + quarrels with neighbours, 165, 194; + his reasons for slave-trading, 180; + his relations with Sir John Kirk, 98, 101; + rule of, 164; + slave-trading of, 95, 165, 181; + soldiers of, 89, 98, 169, 171, 174, 177, 187, 195, 197, 226, 229, + 234, 236, _et seq._; + treatment of European visitors, 11, 101; + town of, 119, 156, 172, 198; + wives of, 111, 112; + Mandara’s interviews with author, 104, 106, 110, 133, 169, 181, 240; + messages to author, 189, 190, _et seq._, 196; + ideas about rent, 191; + threats, 194, 196; + ultimatum, 196; + alliance with Masai, 204; + leave-taking with author, 240, _et seq._ + + Mandiṅgo language, 447, 478. + + Maṅge, 192, 197, 198. + + Mango, 329. + + Maraṅu, 165, 181, 243, 248, 443; + mission to, 245, _et seq._; + chief of, 247, 255, _et seq._; + his mother, 253; + his palace, 254; + his soldiers, 292. + + Market at Kitimbiriu, 154, 155. + + Marriage among Masai, 415. + + —— —— Wa-taita, 431. + + —— —— Wa-čaga, 437. + + —— —— Wa-taveita, 433. + + Masai, the, 6, 7, 74, _et seq._, 78, 95, _et seq._, 165, 185, 209, _et + seq._, 238, 289, 294, 302, _et seq._, 312, _et seq._, 397, _et + seq._, 402, _et seq._, 443, 481, 537, 552; + of Aruša, 97, 204, 397; + of Kisoṅgo, 204, 397; + history of, 405; + physical appearance of, 408, _et seq._; + warriors, 403; + mode of circumcision, 412 (foot-note); + dress of, 414; + marriage amongst, 415, _et seq._; + burial of, 416, _et seq._; + religion of, 417, _et seq._; + political constitution of, 418; + blood-drinking of, 425; + houses of, 419, _et seq._; + morals of, 419; + domestic animals of, 421; + utensils of, 420; + future of, 426. + + Masai-land, 6, 11, 12, 210, 401, 425, 541. + + Masai language, the, 400, 402, 448, _et seq._, 453–476, 501, _et seq._ + + Matthews, General, 31, 105. + + Matumbato, 397. + + Mau, El-, 424. + + Mauṅgu, 54, 56, 58, _et seq._, 65. + + Mauritius, 4. + + Mazindi, 310, _et seq._ + + Mbe, Wa-, 397. + + Mbugu, Wa-, 309, 310, 403. + + Meal, 151, 155. + + Means of transport in East Africa, 42. + + Medical aid, demands for, 111, _et seq._ + + Melons, 131, 547. + + Méru, Mount, 126, 127, 129, 178, 325, 335, 397, 443, 551. + + Mguu, 131. + + Miers, E. T., Mr., on the river-crabs of Kilima-njaro, 365. + + Milk, 142, 148, 155, 157, 213, 214, 315, 425, 442. + + “Milkman, my,” 157, 213. + + Millet, 151, 424, 442. + + Miltsiu, Mount., 2. + + Mint, 330. + + Mission at Mombasa, 43. + + ——, Universities’, 311, 316, _et seq._ + + Missionaries, 8, 310. + + Mkindu palm, 153. + + Mkomazi River, 309, 312, 550. + + Mkuyuni River, 85, 206, 207. + + Mohammedanism, 408. + + Mohammedans _v._ Christians, 43. + + Mombasa, 6, 7, 11, 15, 40, _et seq._, 307, 399, 452. + + ——, inhabitants of, 43. + + ——, missions of, 43. + + ——, slave-trade of, 97. + + _Monitor Niloticus_, 361. + + Monkeys, 117, 160, 212, 350, _et seq._, 485. + + Moši, 10, 11, 79, 84, 87, 91, 94, _et seq._, 165, 212, 225, 323, 443. + + ——, author’s settlement in, 110, 114, 144. + + ——, invasion of, by Wa-kibôšo, 171. + + ——, a beautiful prison, 203. + + Moths, 235. + + Mountains, isolated, 4. + + —— of Paré, 301, 304, _et seq._ + + —— of Usambara, 310. + + Mpala (pallah) antelope, 218, 301, 354. + + Mpokomo, 95, 443. + + Mpoṅgwe language, 493. + + Msai, 443. + + Mtesa of Bu-ganda, 63, 98, 149. + + _Musa Ensete_, 331. + + Mustard and cress, 131, 149. + + Mwale palm, 214. + + Mwatate, 64. + + + Naivaša, Lake, 12. + + Nandi, country of, 397. + + Natal, 3, 304, 363, 481, 485. + + Natron salt, 424. + + Ndara of Taita, 59, 60, 64. + + Negro languages, 447. + + —— and Bantu races, distinction between, 426, _et seq._, 482. + + Negroes, 398, 482. + + ——, Nilotic, 399, 427, 482. + + _Neotragus_, 354. + + New, Rev. Charles, 10, 11, 12, 101, 106, 190, 193. + + Ṅgiri, 326, 397. + + Ṅguru, 449. + + Ṅguruṅgani, 301, 310. + + Niger, River, 478. + + Nile, River, 210, 397, 399, 451, 475, 478, 481. + + Nitrate of soda, 545, 548. + + Nǰemps, _vide_ ǰemsi, En-. + + Nuba grammar, Lepsius’, 400. + + —— languages, 447, 451, 478. + + Nyamwezi, U-, 405. + + Nyara, Bu-, 397. + + “Nyika,” the, 330, 395. + + Nyika, A-, 398, 432. + + ——, Ki-, 494 (and in vocabularies). + + Nyoro, Bu-, 210. + + ——, Ki-, 400, 483, 488, 493. + + + Oigob, El, 313. + + Oliver, Professor, on the flora of Kilima-njaro, 337, _et seq._ + + Onions, 131, 149, 547. + + Orchids, 92, 121, 330, 336. + + ——, _Lissochilus_, 51, 330. + + Orchilla-lichen, 231, 235, 284, 332, 545, 548. + + Oriole, a lovely, 356. + + Ornithology of Kilima-njaro, 377–387. + + Orthography of African words, ix. + + _Orycteropus Æthiopicus_, 300, 353. + + _Osprey_, H.M.S., 320. + + Ostriches, 212, 293, 296, 300, 301, 359, _et seq._, 485, 540, 542. + + Oxen, _vide_ Cattle. + + Ozi, River, 401. + + + Packing goods of Expedition, 44, _et seq._ + + Palms, 137, 153, 154, 336. + + ——, _Borassus_, 154, 329. + + ——, _Cocos_ (cocoanut), 329. + + ——, _Elaïs_, 329. + + ——, _Hyphœne_, 154, 311, 329. + + ——, _Phœnix_ (Mkindu), 153, 329. + + ——, _Raphia_ (Mwale), 154, 214, 329. + + _Palumbus arquatrix_, 358. + + _Pandanus_, 329. + + Pangani, 297, 315, _et seq._, 327, 398. + + —— route, 184. + + Paré, country of, 297, 301, 304, 306, 309, 536, 550; + people of, 210, 306, 309, 398; + language of, 307, 396. + + _Parinarium_, 209. + + Parrot, the grey, 485. + + Party, author’s, 48; + number of, 48. + + Peas, 149, 155, 158, 547. + + Pelicans, 298, 359. + + Persian influence, traces of, in Zanzibar, 17, 18, 537. + + _Phacochœrus_, 422. + + Pig, the, 422, 485. + + Pigeons, 218, 296, 358. + + _Pinarochroa hypospodia_, 270, 356. + + Pira Doǰi, 30. + + Plantations, the author’s, at Kitimbiriu, 139, 149. + + Plovers, 298. + + Pokomo, Wa-, 397; + Ki-, 494. + + Polypodies, 336. + + Porters, food of, 46; + dispute with, 48; + Christian, 49; + punishment of, 49; + Rabai, 52, 101, 115, 120, 129, 130; + without prevision or forethought, 56; + Swahili, 146; + maladies of, 146. + + Portuguese, the, 6, 7, 537. + + Potatoes, 149; + sweet, 424, 546. + + Pottery, Oriental, in Zanzibar, 25. + + —— of Wa-čaga, 440. + + Prefixes, Bantu, 161, 491, _et seq._, 497, _et seq._ + + Presents for Mandara, 106, 191, 241. + + —— from Mandara, 90, 179, 227, 238. + + —— to Maraṅu, 255. + + —— —— Wa-rombo, 295. + + —— —— Semboǰa, 315. + + —— —— Taveita, 78, 211. + + Pythons, 361. + + + Quanza, River, 210. + + Queen, her Majesty the, 98, 105, 199, 308. + + Quinine, the cultivation of, 549. + + + Rabai, 48. + + ——, men of, 63, 101, 115, 120, 129, 130. + + Radishes, 131, 143, 149, 547. + + Rain, 300, 324, _et seq._ + + _Raphia_ palms, 80, 154, 329, 434. + + ——, fibre of, 45. + + Ravens, 235, 271, 277, 356. + + Ravenstein, Mr. E. G., 7, 478. + + Rebmann, Rev. J., 7, 8, 9, 100, 108. + + Religious beliefs among natives, 434, 439, 444, 487. + + Reptiles of Kilima-njaro, 361, 543. + + Rhinoceros, 216, 294, 301, 354, 485, 541. + + Rice, 546, _et seq._ + + River of Gonǰa, 307. + + Rivers of Kilima-njaro, 326, _et seq._ + + Roan antelope, 224. + + Robinson Crusoe, 164. + + Rocks, curious, 270. + + _Rodentia_, the, 353. + + Rombo, 281, 283, 287, 289, _et seq._, 295, 326, 443. + + ——, inhabitants of (Wa-), 287, 288, _et seq._, 443, 494. + + Rombo the best approach to Kilima-njaro, 289. + + Rori, Wa-, 397. + + Royal Society, 6, 245. + + _Ruminantia_, 354. + + Ruvu or Luvu River, 286, 297, 309, 315, 327, 396, _et seq._, 405, 535. + + —— —— —— ——, the valley of the, 315, 550. + + + Sabaki, River, 396, 399, 401, 537. + + Sable antelope, 69, 301, 354. + + Sambara, U-, 297, 307, 309, _et seq._, 316, 396, 536, 546, 550. + + ——, Ki-, 403. + + ——, Wa-, 210, 309, 398. + + Samburu, 51. + + ——, Lake, 210, 552. + + —— language, 451. + + Samia, Ba-, 397. + + Saṅga, U-, 297; + Wa-, 297. + + Sanya, Wa-, 401. + + Saracenic architecture of Zanzibar, 36, 37. + + Savages, attack of, on Kioṅgwe, 166. + + Scenery of Čaga, 230; + of Paré, 307; + of Africa, 324. + + Sclater, Mr. P. L., vii., 3. + + Seasons, rainy, 324. + + Seeds of English vegetables, 131, 136. + + Semboǰa, the chief, 307, 309, 312, _et seq._ + + Semitic languages, 398, 441. + + _Senecio Johnstoni_, 233, 268, 337. + + Seri, U-, 232, 233, 236, 287, 294 326, 443; + Wa-, 294. + + Settlement, first, on Kilima-njaro _vide_ Kitimbiriu. + + —— —— at Taveita, 208. + + —— —— Upper Kilēma (11,000 feet), 262. + + —— —— Msai (8500 ft), 285. + + ——, European, on Kilima-njaro, 286, 290, 298. + + Shaw, Rev. Downes-, 42, 48, 494. + + Sheep, 135, 136, 147, 155, 211, 214, 229, 230, 234, 302, 306, 315, 422, + 546. + + Shelley, Captain, on the birds of Kilima-njaro, 377–387. + + Sickness among men at Upper Kilima-njaro, 280. + + Sierra Leone, 478. + + Sigirari, 397, 404. + + _Silurus_, 363. + + “Skarm,” making a, 221. + + Slave-traders, 96, 247. + + —— trading, 8, 11, 96, 97, 99, 181, 247, 555. + + Slaves, 97, 181, 212, 232, 247, 555. + + Small-pox, 303, 487. + + ——, Masai dread of, 303. + + Snakes, 361. + + Snider rifles, 187, 252, 257, 292. + + Snow, 7, 9, 279, 325, _et seq._ + + —— on Kibô, 137, 152, 274, 325. + + —— —— Kimawenzi, 152, 264, _et seq._, 325. + + —— —— Mount Méru, 325. + + “Snow Fiend,” Mountain of the, 137. + + Snuff, 424. + + Sogonoi, Es-, 397. + + Somali Land, 308. + + —— language, 501. + + —— people, 398, _et seq._, 537. + + Spears, Masai, 421. + + ——, Čaga, 176. + + Spitting, the ceremony of, 213, 411, 438. + + Sport, 298, 301, 540, 554. + + Sporting picnic, a, 225. + + Sportsman’s paradise, a, 301, 540. + + Spring, a warm, 269. + + Squills, 66, 81. + + Squirrels, 361. + + Stanley, Mr. H. M., 116, 149, 398. + + _Sterculia_, 209. + + Stonechat, a, 270. + + Storks, 298, 359. + + ——, marabou, 304, 423. + + _Struthius Danaoides_, 359. + + _Strychnia_, 153, 154, 330. + + Sugar-cane, 64, 214, 424, 546, 549. + + Sūk, 397; + language, 449, 451. + + Sumatra, 4. + + Sun-birds, 154, 269, 356. + + Swahili language, 33, 36, 76, 104, 157, 169, 190, 214, 315, 316, 459, + 537. + + —— people, 87, 88, 96, 99, 210, 398, 403, 436. + + —— traders, 6, 77, 79, 85, 98, 225, 252, 294, 314, 399, 405, 551. + + Switzerland, an African, 136, 164. + + Sycamore-trees, 85, 119, 137, 209. + + Šilha language, 479. + + Šiluk people, 399, 501; + language, 421, 447, 451, 478, 501, _et seq._, 540. + + Šira, 232, 443. + + Šuli language, 451, 541, _et seq._ + + + Ta, Wa-, 401. + + Taita, country of, 60, 64, 131, 136, 142, 165, 396, 428, 494. + + —— language (Ki-), 428, 431. + + ——, people of (Wa-), 60, 64, 65, 210, 215, _et seq._, 398, 428, _et + seq._ + + Tana, River (or Dana), 397, _et seq._, 401, 481, 536. + + Taru, 54. + + Taveita, 74, 75, 205, 208, 212, 213, 290, 295, 297, 307, 320. + + ——, author’s settlement in, 206, 208, 297; + T. a congeries of nations and tongues, 210; + elders of, 77, _et seq._, 211, 436; + forest at, 209; + river of, 77, 79 (bridge over, 79, 80). + + ——, language of (Ki-taveita), 435, 494, _et seq._, 521, _et seq._ + + —— people of (Wa-taveita), 75, 76, 78, 209, 211, 214, 243, 398, 428, + 432; + their houses, 209, 214. + + Temperature on Kilima-njaro, 275, 322, _et seq._, 549. + + _Thelphusa_, 363, 365. + + Thermometer, readings of, 323, _et seq._ + + Thirst, sufferings from, 57, 291. + + Thistles, 267. + + Thomas, Mr. Carmichael, vii. + + Thomas, Mr. Oldfield, on the mammals of Kilima-njaro, 387. + + Thomson, Mr. Joseph, 6, 10, 11, 76, 98, 101, 106, 208, 252, 288, 326, + 397, 399, 404, 449, 538, 540, 541, 551. + + Thorns, 81. + + Thunderstorms on Kilima-njaro, 261, 265. + + Timber, 544. + + Tobacco, 155, 264, 424, 547. + + Tomatoes, 131, 547. + + Trade goods in E. Africa, 44, _et seq._ + + Traders, native, 264, 540, 554. + + ——, Swahili, 77, 79, 85. + + _Tragelaphus_, 354. + + Travel, African, 12, 68. + + Tree-ferns, 231, 336. + + Tumale language, 480. + + Turaco, the (_Turacus Hartlaubi_), 12, 233, 260, 358. + + Turnips, 131, 149, 547. + + Tutwa, Wa-, 397. + + + Ugweno, _vide_ Gweno, U-. + + Ukambani, _vide_ Kambani, U-. + + Ulcers, 111, 147, 266. + + Uru, 277, 443. + + Useri, _vide_ Seri, U-. + + + Varanus lizards, 209, 212, 361. + + Vegetables, European, 547. + + Venice, a vegetable, 209. + + Victoria Nyanza, 1, 2, 9, 98, 210, 324, 395, 399, 488, 494, 535, 538, + _et seq._ + + —— Nile, 98, 488, 551. + + View from Mandara’s town, 111. + + —— towards Mačame, 124. + + —— Méru, 126. + + —— Ugweno, 125. + + Violets, 336. + + Virapan (Indian servant), 40, 49, 57, 58, 136, 145, 148, 168, 178, 190, + 214, 232, 266, 301, 302, 351. + + Vocabularies, collecting, 160. + + —— of Masai, Latuka, &c., 501. + + —— —— Ki-čaga, Ki-taveita, &c., _et seq._, 521. + + —— —— Waboni and Galla, 401. + + —— —— Šuli, Kavirondo, Bari, &c., 400. + + Volcano, Kilima-njaro an extinct, 1, 326. + + Vultures, 128, 176, 177, 216, 220, 304, _et seq._, 359, 423. + + + Waggons used for transport, 552. + + Wakefield, Rev. Thomas, 42, 48. + + War fires, 169. + + Wart-hog (_Phacochœrus_), 216, 218, 422, 424. + + Wasps, 269, 363. + + Water-birds, 359. + + —— falls, 307. + + —— of ǰipé, 298. + + Watercourses, artificial, of Čaga, 117, 118, 120, 121, 123. + + Waterhouse, Mr. Charles O., on the _Coleoptera_ of Kilima-njaro, + 372–377. + + Wax, 547. + + Wilderness, African, 58, 81, 395. + + Wild animals, sale of, 548. + + —— flowers, 50, 87, 91, 147, 148, 230, 233, 235, 267, 329. + + Wing of ostrich, 359. + + Wolof, the, Negroes, 427. + + Worm, note on a nematoid, 364. + + + _Xyloropus_, 363. + + + Yao people, the, 61, 299. + + + Zambesi, 98, 334, 422, 493, 552. + + —— Expedition, the, 19. + + Zanzibar, 13, 15, 248, 319. + + ——, architecture of, 36, 37; + army of, 35; + history of, 17; + houses of, 28; + population of, 35; + position of, 17; + streets of, 35; + trade of, 35; + vegetation of, 37; + zoology of, 37. + + Zanzibar, Sultan of (Sayyid Barγaš), 20, 98, 99, 100, 307, 313, 315; + his appearance, 32; + character, 34; + clock-tower, 29; + flag, 313; + income, 35; + a visit to, 31; + his palace, 31. + + Zanzibaris, 13, 553. + + ——, author’s, 40, _et seq._, 48, 49, 52, 63, 109, 115, _et seq._, 130, + 146, 166, 179, 184, 195, 266, 270, 318. + + Zebras, 66, 68, 216, 220, 224, 301, 485. + + Zegūha, or Zegūa, Wa-, 307, 310, 398. + + —— —— ——, Ki-, 307. + + Ziwani, 52, 54. + + Zoology, the, of Kilima-njaro, 350–394. + + —— —— —— Zanzibar, 37. + + Zulu, 288, 430, 482, 488, _et seq._ + + Zuṅgu, Wa- (white man), 317. + + + THE END. + + + GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. JOHN’S SQUARE, LONDON. + +[Illustration: + + E. Weller, _lith._ +] + +----- + +Footnote 1: + + From _kilima_, mountain, and _njaro_, the name of a demon supposed to + cause cold. This name is only known to the people of the coast, and is + unrecognized in the interior. + +Footnote 2: + + I owe this information to the kind researches of Mr. E. G. Ravenstein, + F.R.G.S., the learned African cartographer. The following is a + quotation from Enciso’s great work, the “Suma de Geographia que trata + de todas las partidas y provincias del Mundo,” published at Seville in + 1519 (later editions 1530, 1546), fol. 57. + + (Translation.) “West of this port (Mombaça) is the Ethiopian Mount + Olympus, which is very high, and further off are the mountains of the + moon, in which are the sources of the Nile. In all this country are + much gold and ‘aiales fieros,’ and here devour the people locusts + (lãgostas).” + + No gold has since been met with by succeeding travellers, and as to + the “aiales fieros,” neither Mr. Ravenstein nor myself can give any + translation to the former of the two words. “Aiales” _may_ be a name + of a tribe, perhaps a hint at the Masai; or more possibly it may be a + printer’s contraction of “animales”—“animales fieros”—“fierce + animals.” + + Enciso was a Spanish pilot, but his information is evidently derived + from the Portuguese, who held Mombaça as early as 1507. + +Footnote 3: + + _Čaga_ (which is pronounced Chaga) is the native name for the + inhabited belt, between 3000 and 7000 feet, stretching round the + mountain. + +Footnote 4: + + Rebmann had made a second journey to Kilima-njaro soon after his + first, intending to proceed due east to the Unknown Lake (Victoria + Nyanza), but the chief of Mačame plundered him and compelled him to + return unsuccessfully to the coast. + +Footnote 5: + + _Turacus Hartlaubi._ + +Footnote 6: + + In remarks of this character I do not wish it to be supposed that + while ardently admiring all British officials who have but one + single-minded purpose, viz. that of straining every effort to secure + peculiar advantages for the power and commerce of their own country, I + am hypocritical enough to think it immoral and unjust when the same + object is held in view by the servants of foreign powers—France, + Russia, Germany, and the like. From their point of view they are + acting quite rightly and deserve every credit from their + fellow-countrymen for their determined efforts to thwart our healthy + appetite, which must seem like greediness to them. Every one for + himself. Self-denial only creates selfishness. + +Footnote 7: + + Swahili is the name given to the predominant language of the Zanzibar + negroes. It is derived from the Arabic “Sabel,” the coast. Swahili + belongs to the Bantu family of African languages, _vide_ Chapter XX. + +Footnote 8: + + _Alcelaphus Cokei._ + +Footnote 9: + + We were within the benign influences of the mountain, and had entered + the area of perpetual moisture surrounding its cloud-capped peaks. + +Footnote 10: + + This practice is called by the Wa-čaga “Kišoṅo.” The skin is generally + taken from the animal’s forehead, and the ceremony is equivalent to + blood-brotherhood. + +Footnote 11: + + At the risk of reiteration I might remind my readers that Čaga is the + native name of the entire inhabited districts on the slopes of + Kilima-njaro. + +Footnote 12: + + Baloza (Baluz) is a Persian term for consul, which is used in Zanzibar + to indicate Sir John Kirk. + +Footnote 13: + + An English officer, the Commander-in-Chief of the Zanzibar army. + +Footnote 14: + + Kibô, I might remind you, is the highest summit of Kilima-njaro. Kibô + means in Ki-čaga simply “whiteness.” We should pronounce it “Keebaw.” + +Footnote 15: + + The country of Ugweno is very interesting, and offers the most lovely + landscapes in its midst, combining peaks of 7000 feet, rich forests, + cascades, green lawns, and peeps at the lake below and the silver + windings of the Luvu. The Wagweno speak a tongue that is evidently + more archaic than that of the Wa-čaga. They are an inoffensive but + very timid, wild people; much harried formerly by the cruel Masai. Now + they live so high up in the hills that they are in safety, but, on the + other hand, lack good soil for their crops and pasture for their + cattle. + +Footnote 16: + + The height of its apex is 14,700 feet. It is occasionally, but rarely, + tipped with snow. Méru lies nearly due west of Kilima-njaro, in lat. + 3° 15′ S., and long. 36° 40′ E., and is visible across the plains for + a distance of at least seventy miles, and is at all times a majestic + object. It is said to be inhabited by a gentle race of agriculturists, + akin in origin and tongue to the Wa-čaga of Kilima-njaro. At its base + dwell tribes of Masai, who are great cattle-keepers, and whose herds + of kine range over the vast green plains that lie between Méru and + Kilima-njaro at the upper waters of the Luvu River. + +Footnote 17: + + Vide illustration of Kilima-njaro, p. 234. + +Footnote 18: + + By Arabs I do not mean pure-blooded Arabs of Arabia, but the + half-breeds, or Mohammedan mongrels, of the Zanzibar coast, who always + announce themselves to natives as “Wa-Arabu.” + +Footnote 19: + + He was, however, a good fellow and a good friend to me, and only acted + after his own lights. + +Footnote 20: + + It was from him that I afterwards heard an account of this + conversation. + +Footnote 21: + + A curious incident in my quarrel with Mandara was, that even when our + relations were at the worst, he would calmly send to me for medicine + for himself, his wives, and children. One of his Swahilis cautioned + him that perhaps I might take advantage of this to poison him, but + Mandara said quietly, “A black man might do so, but a white man never + would.” + +Footnote 22: + + Spitting, among these people, is a sign of respect and honour. The + most reverent way of returning thanks to the Ruler of the universe is + to spit in the direction of His visible embodiment, the sun. + +Footnote 23: + + _Æpyceros Melampus._ I use here the common South African name. The + Wa-taveita call it “Kulungu” and the Wa-taita “Nosi.” + +Footnote 24: + + As this word often recurs it may be well to note that in accordance + with the system of spelling employed it would be pronounced + “Marang’u.” + +Footnote 25: + + _Dierama pendula._ + +Footnote 26: + + _Gladiolus Watsonioides._ + +Footnote 27: + + These were of two new species: _Nectarinia Johnstoni_ and _Cinnyris + mediocris_. _Vide_ Chapter XVIII., “Birds.” + +Footnote 28: + + _Aspidium aculeatum._ + +Footnote 29: + + _Pinarochroa hypospodia._ _Vide_ Chapter XVIII. + +Footnote 30: + + _Hyrax Brucei_, an Abyssinian form. _Vide_ Chapter XVIII. “Mammals of + Kilima-njaro.” + +Footnote 31: + + From _-dorob_ = short, stumpy, inferior. The _En-_ preceding it is the + feminine article used in a depreciatory sense. + +Footnote 32: + + _Hyphœne Thebaïca._ + +Footnote 33: + + He feels for his honest, plodding relative the same contempt that a + Highland rover who was called Gow would evince for his cousin who + settled as a merchant in the lowlands and translated his name into + Smith. + +Footnote 34: + + Dr. Williams, the kindest of hosts and best of good fellows, who is + since unhappily dead, to the universal regret of the English colony in + Zanzibar. + +Footnote 35: + + This belief also prevails in the Nyassa region. + +Footnote 36: + + The natives of many parts of Africa greatly esteem the baboon as an + article of food. _Vide_ the paper on the Cameroons, by the Rev. George + Grenfell, in the “Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society,” + October, 1882, p. 590. Doubtless the great resemblance to human flesh + is _not_ held as a drawback. + +Footnote 37: + + For illustration _vide_ p. 392. + +Footnote 38: + + _Vide_ “The River Congo,” p. 356. + +Footnote 39: + + Mostly reprinted (by permission) from the “Proceedings of the + Zoological Society, 1884–5”—in some cases with a few additions on my + own part. + +Footnote 40: + + A plate illustrating the new and rare species in this collection is + given in the “Proceedings of the Zoological Society,” p. 231. 1885. + +Footnote 41: + + The collection contains examples of fifty species, including the + following six considered to be new to science:—_Muscicapa Johnstoni_, + _Pinarochroa hypospodia_, _Pratincola axillaris_, _Nectarinia + Johnstoni_, _N. kilimensis_, and _Cynniris mediocris_. + +Footnote 42: + + Illustrated in “Proceedings of the Zoological Society,” pp. 222, 223. + 1885. + +Footnote 43: + + Illustrated in “Proceedings of the Zoological Society,” pp. 222, 223. + 1885. + +Footnote 44: + + _Ibid._, p. 556. 1884. + +Footnote 45: + + P. Z. S., 1865, p. 417. + +Footnote 46: + + P. Z. S., 1876, p. 282. + +Footnote 47: + + The same fact has been noticed by Captain R. F. Burton on the Cameroon + Mountains. _Vide_ “Abeokuta and the Cameroons,” vol. ii. + +Footnote 48: + + “Through Masai Land,” pp. 412–414. + +Footnote 49: + + The following comparison of a few words in Šuli (a Šiluk dialect) and + Bari may be interesting to the reader:— + + Šuli. + English. (Kavirondo & Lur.) Bari. + Goat Mindiel Metyo. + Cow Diaṅ Kiteṅ. + Leopard Kuač Koka. + Crocodile Nyaṅ Ki-nyoṅ. + Rain Kōt Kudu. + Water Pi Piom. + Blood Remo Rema. + Honey Kič Či. + House Āt Kadi (Masai, Aǰi). + Cloth Obono Baṅo. + Knife Pala Wale (Masai, Alem). + Ashes Vurr Kuren (Kö-puröt, smoke). + Wood Tim Mudim (Masai, Dim). + Brook Kulu Kolotok. + Man Netyo Nuto. + Nose Ume Kume. + Evening Otieno Kotian. + Sand Kuoyo Kuǰö. + A little Tidi Ko-dik (Masai, Ku-titi). + To count Ken Ken (Masai, Iken), + &c. + + _Vide_ “Comparative Vocabulary of Masai,” chap. xx. + +Footnote 50: + + English. Wa-boni. Galla. + 1. Koi Toko. + 2. Lamā Lama. + 3. Sadi Zadi. + 4. Afūr Afūr. + 5. Šan Šan. + 6. Li (Masai, Ile) Dya. + 7. Toïba Torba. + 8. Siete (Masai, Isiet) Zadeta. + 9. Sagala Zagala. + 10. Tobenna (Masai, Tomon) Kudan (-tama, in the + decades). + + Man Riga. + Woman Idoho. + Woman as mother Nasā. + Young unmarried girl Oǰale. + Cow Lavon Lon. + Buffalo Kadarasa Gadersa. + Elephant Mororiē; Arba Arba. + Road Derbo Dirbo. + House Minga Minna. + Village Kiluāni. + Sun Hado. + „ setting Hadite. + Rain Boke Bokoia. + Lake Biwesi. + Snuff Ruso. + Good Surde. + To eat Ademe. + I am well Fila. + Art thou well? Filalta? + You come Afarasi. + You Isi Izin. + I have not M’ovo. + I saw not M’arne. + +Footnote 51: + + _Vide_ Appendix to “A Pocket Vocabulary of East African Languages.” By + the Rev. A. Downes Shaw. S.P.C.K. + +Footnote 52: + + The people of this district are considered by Thomson to be the finest + examples of their race. + +Footnote 53: + + Kikoro is the Kwavi settlement in Taveita. + +Footnote 54: + + To spit on any one is a sign of respect and friendship. To wipe off + the saliva is a great insult to the spitter. + +Footnote 55: + + Præputio e superiore parte diviso, duæ quasi lingulæ sub glandem + truduntur, ubi quum coaluerunt, fit molle et rotundum tuber glandi + subjectum, ita ut paullo longius conspiciente videtur penis duplicem + terminum habere. Hoc membrum apud Masaios enorme est: quod celare + turpe existimatur, honestum expromere, atque etiam ostentare. Apud + feminas clitoris ante matrimonium abscinditur quo facilius fiat + conceptio. + +Footnote 56: + + Grass (gujita) is regarded as peculiarly sacred. It is a sign of peace + and goodwill. To throw grass at any one is to display goodwill and + favour. + +Footnote 57: + + “The Modern Languages of Africa,” 2 vols., Trübner and Co. + +Footnote 58: + + “Tsuñi-||goam; the Supreme Being of the Khoi-khoi.” T. Hahn, Ph.D.; + Trübner and Co. + +Footnote 59: + + This, I must confess, is a conclusion so difficult of explanation that + I fail to understand how it was arrived at. + +Footnote 60: + + To say nothing of irregularities. + +Footnote 61: + + As in the masculine nouns, which in the plural take the neuter + article. + +Footnote 62: + + This is a very common prefix in Bari, where it becomes _Ko_ generally: + not always there used in a plural sense, but rather an intensitive. + +Footnote 63: + + In Latuka the article is apparently _O_ or _ol_, _na_, and _el_. + + In Bari the article is almost identical with the third personal + pronouns, the demonstrative, and the gender prefix. It is as follows:— + + Masc. sing. Fem. sing. Common plur. + _Lo_, _lu_ _Na_, _nu_ _ti_, _či_, _ku_. + + As a demonstrative pronoun it is— + + Masc. sing. Fem. sing. + _Lo_ _Na_. + + Masc. plur. Fem. plur. + _Či-lo_, _kulo_ _Či-ne_, _ku-ne_. + +Footnote 64: + + This term _oigob_ (with the article, _el-oigob_) is supposed to be the + origin of the Swahili term “Kwavi” for the agricultural Masai. + +Footnote 65: + + The Hottentot is a sex-denoting language, but I do not imply that it + is necessarily related to the Hamitic tongues. + +Footnote 66: + + Such as in Latin where the vowel “a” is particularly characteristic of + the final terminations of feminine nouns, and reappears in most of the + corresponding pronouns and adjectives, as in such a phrase as this:— + + “Ill_a_ ancill_a_ est bon_a_.” Here the concord is as apparent as in + the tongues we have been quoting. + +Footnote 67: + + _Na_ is still the form used in Central Masai-land, according to Dr. + Fischer. + +Footnote 68: + + Sometimes pronounced _g_-, _ga_. + +Footnote 69: + + _Vide_ passive of verbs. + +Footnote 70: + + _Vide_ verbs. + +Footnote 71: + + _O_ is sometimes a plural termination. Compare the plurals in Bari + given in Mitterrutzner’s Bari Grammar. + +Footnote 72: + + Latuka—_ivot_ = “full.” _Vide_ Vocabulary. + +Footnote 73: + + The personal pronouns are placed here for convenience of reference. + They are not always used with the verb unless emphasis is required. + +Footnote 74: + + The Hottentot, like the Masai, has three classes, masc., fem., and + common. + +Footnote 75: + + Compare with this _Lu-ganda_ and _Oči-herrero_, languages spoken at + either extremity of the Bantu language-field, separated as widely as + are Galla and Šilha, yet differing from each other only as Latin from + Greek. + +Footnote 76: + + I hardly think it worth while to except the languages of the Pigmy + races (Obongo and others) from this general statement, as we know too + little of them to pronounce as to their affinities. + +Footnote 77: + + Itself, no doubt, in those early days but a sister-tongue or a lateral + branch of many cognate forms of prefix-governed speech descended from + an earlier stock. + +Footnote 78: + + Ki-nyoro, one of the most northerly forms of Bantu language, is spoken + in Bu-nyoro on the Victoria Nile, in lat. 2° N. + +Footnote 79: + + I fancy some may be inclined to suggest that the fowl may have been + introduced at an earlier date into Africa by way of Madagascar, and + that the Malay invaders of that island might well have brought it with + them from the Indian Archipelago. Apart from the fact that we can + discover no introduction of any animal or plant in a domesticated + condition _from_ Madagascar _into_ Africa, but rather that most + domesticated animals in that island bear Bantu names, and in all + likelihood owe their origin to importation from the Mosambique coast, + we may further consider, for weighty linguistic reasons, that the + region of South-east Africa opposite Madagascar was a very unlikely + site for the original home and starting-point of the Bantu people. + Again, it might be argued that the fowl may have been introduced from + Madagascar to the opposite coast, and that it was thence passed on + into all parts of Bantu Africa—the Lake district, Natal, the + Cameroons, the Congo—carrying with it everywhere its original name. + But in this case how is it, while all the Bantu languages know it by + kindred (practically identical) terms, that in neighbouring or + intervening forms of speech of alien families it is designated by + entirely dissimilar words? Also it must be noted that all foreign + products introduced into Africa, and acclimatized there since the + discovery of America, do _not_ carry their original names with them + from tribe to tribe as they pass across the dark continent. Things + like Indian corn, sweet potatoes, manioc, the Muscovy duck, the + pineapple, bear a different designation in almost every separate + dialect, and though sometimes their original foreign name may turn up + in the centre of Africa, in the intervening lands nearer the coast it + has been long since changed and distorted beyond recognition. Lastly, + the introduction into Madagascar of the domestic fowl is usually + ascribed to the Arabs, about eight or nine hundred years ago. Few + writers on Madagascar mention its presence in the island, and it is + probably not widely kept even at the present time. + +Footnote 80: + + The word for pig is as widespread as that for ox. I have tried to show + in my book on the Congo that the pig was domesticated in Africa long + before its introduction by the Portuguese. + +Footnote 81: + + Where an alternative rendering is added in brackets, it is meant to + indicate what the peculiarities of the concord and other reasons lead + us to regard as the older form of the prefix, now no longer in actual + use. + +Footnote 82: + + “A Pocket Vocabulary of East African languages,” by the Rev. A. + Downes-Shaw. S.P.C.K. + +Footnote 83: + + Where this occurs in the case of the 5th prefix _Li_, which I believe + is derived from an older form _Ndi_, it is probably only a case of the + _n_ surviving. + +Footnote 84: + + M- before labials. + +Footnote 85: + + These are added for the purpose of comparison. The words given of + Latuka are copied from Dr. Emin-Bey’s vocabularies, published in the + _Zeitschrift für Ethnologie_, Berlin, 1882. Dr. Friedrich Müller is my + chief authority for Bari. The following are among the languages + occasionally cited in this vocabulary:— + + _Latuka_ and _Bari_, members of the Masai family. + + _Diṅka._ + + _Šiluk_ Šiluk family. + _Šuli_ „ + _Lūr_ „ + + _Galla_ Ethiopic branch of Hamitic family. + _Somali_ „ + _Boni_ „ + _Woratta_ „ + + _Latuka_ is spoken in a somewhat small district nearly 5° N. latitude, + to the east of the White Nile. + + _Bari_ is the language of a slightly larger area on both banks of the + White Nile round about Gondokoro. It borders on _Latuka_. + + _Diṅka_ is the name given to a large group of languages spoken about + the junction of the White Nile and the Bahr al Ghazal, from 7° to 9° + 30′ N. + + _Šiluk_ is the tongue of the negroes inhabiting the western bank of + the White Nile from latitude 9° 30′ to 11° N. _Šuli_ is really only a + dialect of _Šiluk_, and is spoken by a small tribe to the south of + _Latuka_, in latitude 4° N. + + _Lur_ is also only a variant of _Šiluk_. It is the language of the + north-western bank of the Albert Nyanza, in 3° 30′ to 4° N. latitude. + (A further extension of the _Šiluk_ tongues is the speech of + _Kavirondo_, spoken on the eastern shore of the Victoria Nyanza in 2° + S. latitude, so that this closely-related group of languages—the + Šiluk—extends its colonies from 11° N. latitude to 2° S. of the + Equator.) + + _Galla_, an important member of the Ethiopic branch of the Hamitic + family of languages, is spoken with relatively little variation over + an immense area, stretching from 12° N., in Abyssinia, to 4° S, in the + vicinity of Mombasa, and up the Sabaki river to within sight of + Kilima-njaro. + + _Somali_, the dominant language of the eastern horn of Africa, closely + related to _Galla_. + + _Boni_ is a form of _Galla_ spoken by the Boni (Wa-boni, as the + Swahilis call them), or San people, a helot race of hunters living on + the banks of certain rivers in Southern Galla-land. + + _Woratta_, an independent Ethiopic tongue, distantly allied to + _Galla_, and spoken in Central Galla-land. + +Footnote 86: + + Whenever the adjective is given with a hyphen preceding it, the reader + must understand that it is merely the root, and that the masc., fem., + or neuter particles must be prefixed according to gender. Invariable + adjectives commence with a capital letter. + +Footnote 87: + + The blanks before the root indicate that the concord prefix is to be + inserted according to rule. + +Footnote 88: + + From this root is derived Kibô (whiteness), the name of Kilima-njaro’s + highest peak. + +Footnote 89: + + Only the root of the verbs is given. The prefix in the infinitive + answering to our “to” is Ku-, No. 15. + +Footnote 90: + + These forms in Ki-čaga are rather unsettled. I have sometimes heard + them pronounced _Gu_, _Ga_, &c., and sometimes _Ku_, _Ka_. The more + archaic-form prevailing in many Bantu languages would be _Ku_, _Ka_, + _Katu_, &c. This becomes _Hu_, _Ha_ in Swahili, _A_ in Zulu, _To_, + _Ta_ in Lu-ganda, _Su_, _Sa_ in Ki-nyanˇa, and so on. 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Printers, New-street Square, London._ + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES + + + ● Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + ● Renumbered footnotes and moved them all to the end of the final + chapter. + ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. + ● The caret (^) is used to indicate superscript, whether applied to a + single character (as in 2^d) or to an entire expression (as in + 1^{st}). + ● Images without captions use HTML alt text. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78816 *** |