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committer: www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org> 2026-05-26 06:28:40 -0700
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+    <title>
+      Six months in America. Vol. 2 of 2 | Project Gutenberg
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+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78758 ***</div>
+
+<div class="transnote">
+TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
+<br>
+<p>Some minor changes to the text are noted at the <a href="#transnote">end of the book</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h1 class="center">
+SIX MONTHS<br>
+<br>
+<span class="fs60">IN</span><br>
+<br>
+<span class="bold">AMERICA.</span>
+</h1>
+</div>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i004" style="max-width: 93.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i004.jpg" alt="">
+  <figcaption style="margin: 0 2em">
+    <p class="noindent">
+      <span>G.T. Vigne, delṭ</span>
+      <span style="float: right">T. S. Engleheart, sculpṭ</span>
+    </p>
+    <p class="center fs150">
+      LOCKS ON THE RIDEAU CANAL, AT BYTOWN, ON THE OTTAWA RIVER.
+    </p>
+    <p class="center">
+      <i>Published by Whittaker &amp; C<sup>o</sup>. April 10, 1832.</i>
+    </p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="center" style="line-height: 2em">
+<span class="fs150">SIX MONTHS</span><br>
+<br>
+IN<br>
+<br>
+<span class="fs170 bold">AMERICA.</span></p>
+<p class="p4 center">
+BY<br>
+<br>
+<span class="fs120">GODFREY T. VIGNE, ESQ.</span><br>
+<br>
+OF LINCOLN’S INN, BARRISTER AT LAW.</p>
+<p class="p4 center fs120">
+VOL. II.<br>
+</p>
+<p class="p4 center" style="line-height: 1.5em">
+LONDON:<br>
+<span class="lsp2 p2">WHITTAKER, TREACHER, &amp; CO.</span><br>
+<span class="fs80">AVE MARIA LANE.</span><br>
+</p>
+<hr class="r5" style="margin-bottom: 0">
+<p class="center">
+1832.
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p class="center">
+<span class="fs80">LONDON:</span><br>
+Manning and Co., Printers, 4, London House Yard,<br>
+St. Pauls.
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+  <h2 class="nobreak" id="SIX_MONTHS_IN_AMERICA">
+    SIX MONTHS IN AMERICA.
+  </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="noindent">I now left Washington to proceed to Harper’s
+ferry. The English and American ideas
+of the picturesque are widely different. The
+Englishman, who sees enough of cultivation
+in his own country, travels to other lands in
+search of wilder scenery, and gazes with delight
+on the immense forests of America. The
+American would readily dispense with the romantic,
+and wonders that every body is not like
+himself, an admirer, by preference, of a rail-road,
+a canal, or a piece of newly cleared
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span>ground. Excellent as these are in their way, I
+really believe that the Americans, of the middle
+and lower class, regard them not merely
+with reference to their beneficial effects, but as
+the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of the beautiful. When I
+inquired which was the prettiest road towards
+Harper’s ferry, “Go by such a road,” was the
+reply; “it runs by the side of the canal,
+sir.” However, it so happened that the canal-road
+lay also along the bank of the Potomac,
+and the scenery certainly was very pretty. At
+a distance of two miles from the road, and
+thirteen or fourteen from Washington, are the
+Great Falls of the Potomac. I did not turn
+out of my way to see them; I have seen a
+great many, and purposed visiting Niagara.</p>
+
+<p>After all I had heard, I must say, that I
+was disappointed with Harper’s ferry. The
+Shenandoah and Potomac rivers unite at the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span>foot of the Blue Mountains, through which they
+have forced, or rather worn a passage; but the
+rivers are of the same width. The mountains,
+composed of limestone, and schistose rocks, are
+of moderate and uniform elevation, and they
+appear to be perfectly acquiescent, while the
+stream glides in silent triumph over its smooth
+though rocky channel, without the least appearance
+of exasperation.</p>
+
+<p>I visited the United States’ arsenal, containing
+70,000 stand of arms. The chief armourer
+was an old Englishman, who served at
+the battles of Alexandria and Trafalgar. I
+observed that, with the exception of the ramrod
+and touchhole, which was of brass, every part
+of the musket, lock, barrel, and bayonet, was
+browned. They were not ranged in order, as
+in other arsenals, but were kept in boxes, so
+that there was no display whatever. From the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span>arsenal I proceeded to Captain Hall’s manufactory
+of patent rifles. With one of these, after
+a little practice, a man may load and fire eight
+or nine times in a minute. The arrangement
+is very simple. The barrel appears to have
+been divided from the breech with a fine saw.
+The breech is raised by means of a hinge and
+a spring, which is struck by the hand, and when
+loaded is immediately shut down, so as to form
+part of the barrel, similar to that of a screw
+pistol. The great advantage gained by the invention
+of this rifle is, that with it a soldier
+can load, and defend himself with his bayonet
+at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>There are also some large saw mills here
+well worth the attention of the traveller.</p>
+
+<p>I proceeded up the well-cultivated valley of
+the Shenandoah, and arrived at Winchester, a
+neat and considerable town; thence to a good
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span>inn in the middle of the forest. In my way
+I crossed the sandy ridge and the Capon Mountains,
+though they hardly deserve such a name,
+being, to all appearance, scarcely higher than
+the Wrekin in Shropshire. I breakfasted at
+Romney, a pretty village on the south bank of
+the Potomac. A little farther on, the road is
+frowned upon by an overhanging rock of bastard
+lime-stone: its appearance is very singular. The
+strata are disposed in arches one within the
+other, so that, with the aid of fancy, its surface
+may be thought to resemble the solid frame-work
+of a stupendous bridge. The highest
+arch, to which the others are parallel, is nearly
+semi-circular with a radius of 270 feet.</p>
+
+<p>When the mail, in which I was travelling,
+arrived at the north branch of the Potomac,
+we found it so swollen by the late rains that a
+passage seemed not only dangerous but impracticable.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>The coachman, however, a cool and
+determined fellow, crossed over on horseback;
+he then returned, placed one of the passengers
+on the near leader, and resolutely drove his
+four horses into the torrent, which was sixty
+or seventy yards in width, running like a mill-race,
+and so deep that it reached nearly up to
+the backs of the horses. I was with him on the
+box. The inside passengers pulled off their
+coats, and prepared to swim. The water forced
+itself into the coach; but we reached the opposite
+bank without disaster. On the preceding
+evening the coachman had only prevented the
+mail from being entirely carried away, by turning
+the horses’ heads down the stream, so that
+the coach and horses were swimming for nearly
+thirty yards. I think the American coachmen,
+in general, are good drivers: the horses are well
+adapted to their work, and in fine condition: in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span>summer they are allowed any quantity of oats
+they can eat, and in winter a little Indian corn is
+mixed with them. It is too heating to be much
+used in the stable during the summer months;
+one feed of Indian corn is supposed to contain as
+much nourishment as two of oats. The coaches
+stop every five or six miles, and the horses drink
+at least half a pail of water; they could not
+work without it on a hot day. The roads in
+the country would puzzle the most experienced
+English coachman; they are often execrably
+bad,—and require making, not mending,—with
+the roots of trees sticking up in the middle
+of the road. The expense of finishing good
+roads through the forest would be enormous,
+far too great to be borne at present; but
+in the neighbourhood of the large towns I have
+sometimes seen them in a state of inexcusable
+neglect.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span></p>
+
+<p>Cumberland is delightfully situated in the
+valley of the Potomac, surrounded by lofty hills,
+out-topped by the distant Alleghany, which
+had appeared in sight towards the close of the
+day.</p>
+
+<p>Virginia is famous for its breed of horses.
+Till I passed through that state I had not seen
+a horse with at all the shape and figure of an
+English hunter; but in Virginia I have seen
+horses on the road, and brood mares in the pastures,
+displaying a great deal of blood and
+symmetry. In all parts of the Union which I
+visited, a well-bred horse is termed a “blooded
+horse:” but the Americans are quite at liberty to
+use what terms they please. Besides the paces
+usually known in England, the horse in the
+United States is valuable according to his performances
+as a square or natural trotter, a
+pacer, or a racker. A racker is a beast that
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>can trot before, and canter behind, at the same
+time. The recommendations of a pacer are,
+that he moves his fore and hind legs on the
+same side at the same time, like a cameleopard.
+When hiring a hack, you are questioned
+as to which you would prefer. As
+there is no fox-hunting, a fast trotter is considered
+the most valuable animal next to the
+racer. A horse that can trot a mile in two
+minutes and a half, is not thought very extraordinary.</p>
+
+<p>At Cumberland I joined the high road or
+“turnpike,” between Baltimore and Pittsburgh,
+and soon afterwards I began the ascent of the
+Alleghany for the second time. The road passes
+over Keyser’s ridge, one of the highest parts of
+the mountain, rising to a height of 2800 feet
+above the level of the western rivers. The
+mountain presented the same distant and interminable
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span>forest view that I beheld when I passed
+over it in Pennsylvania; but in that state, there
+were more patches of cultivated land to be seen
+here and there in the vicinity of the high road.
+Silence and tranquillity to a degree I never
+before witnessed, are, I think, the prevailing
+characteristics of the American forests, where
+the Indian is no longer an inhabitant. They are
+dark, but never gloomy, excepting where they
+are composed of pine trees: they are solitary,
+and are silent as the grave, without inspiring
+horror. They are curious and interesting to the
+European traveller. In Europe the eye is frequently
+attracted by the ancient relics of feudal
+grandeur, or the formidable structures of modern,
+and more civilized warfare. But the wild scenery
+of America is dependent for its interest on
+nature, and nature only; the mountain pass is
+without banditti, the forest is without fastness,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>and the glens and glades are quiet and legendless.
+I was never tired of the forest scenery,
+although I passed through it day after day.
+The endless diversity of foliage always prevents
+it from being monotonous. Sycamores and tulip
+trees of most gigantic dimensions, are to be seen
+on the banks of the smaller rivers, or creeks, as
+they are termed in the United States. With the
+more stately trees of the forest are mingled the
+sassafras, the gum-tree, the hickory, and many
+others that are new to the European eye. But
+the most beautiful sight is afforded by the wild
+vine that entwines itself round the acacia, and
+covers every branch of it with a green tile-work,
+extended in festoons to the nearest trees; like
+those which are to be seen in the vineyards of
+Italy.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after passing the Alleghany, I was
+shown the remains of an old entrenchment in a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span>meadow on the left of the road: it was formed
+by Washington, then a Colonel in the British
+service, when pursued by the Indians after the
+defeat of General Braddock. A little further
+on, on the right hand, on the bank of a small
+stream, I saw the spot where the General was
+buried on the 9th of July, 1755; having neglected
+the precautions recommended by Colonel
+Washington, who offered to scour the forest
+alongside his line of march with the provincial
+troops; he was attacked by the Indians in a
+defile on the banks of the Monongahela, when
+within about ten miles of Fort du Quesne, at
+Pittsburgh, then occupied by the French, and
+which he was marching to besiege: his bravery
+was of little use; all the officers about his person
+were killed, he had five horses shot under him,
+and at last he himself received a mortal wound.
+He was conveyed away by his retreating soldiers;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span>but soon afterwards died, and was buried in the
+middle of the road, and the wagons and horses
+were allowed to pass over his grave, in order to
+conceal the spot from the pursuing Indians.
+With his dying breath he acknowledged to
+Colonel Washington the error he had committed
+in not following his advice. He presented him
+with his horse, and gave his parting injunction
+to an old and faithful attendant to enter into the
+service of Colonel Washington, and remain with
+him till the day of his death. Fort Du Quesne
+was afterwards taken by General Forbes, and
+the name was changed to Fort Pitt, in compliment
+to the British minister. The magazine
+and part of the wall, are all that remain of it at
+present, and are to be seen near the point of
+confluence of the rivers at Pittsburgh.</p>
+
+<p>At Washington town, I attended a black
+Methodist meeting; they are to be found in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>every considerable town in the Union, but I
+had never seen one before. The preacher was
+a half-cast, or quarteroon, as the negroes call
+them, and he and his congregation were all
+ranters; he talked the most incoherent nonsense,
+and worked himself up to such a pitch of frenzy,
+that his appearance was almost that of a maniac.
+At intervals I was nearly stunned by the noise
+he made; and I could not help thinking of the
+speech of the frogs in the fable, who said to the
+boy as he pelted them, “It may be very good
+fun for <i>you</i>, but <i>we</i> really find it exceedingly
+disagreeable.”</p>
+
+<p>As I approached Pittsburgh the forest became
+less extensive, and the country exhibited a more
+general appearance of cultivation, although it
+may be broadly asserted that the Americans are
+at least fifty years behind us in agriculture; yet
+there are many gentlemen’s estates on which
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span>more than ordinary care and labour have been
+bestowed, and which, consequently, are far in
+advance of others. I observed some good farming
+adjacent to the road. Some part of the
+country I am speaking of, might have been
+mistaken for the more wooded parts of England,
+had it not been for the worm or zigzag fence
+which is in universal use throughout the United
+States, and offers but a poor apology for the
+English hedge row, although they are sometimes
+composed of cedar logs.</p>
+
+<p>Pittsburgh is built on the confluence of the
+Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, both of
+them being about a quarter of a mile in width,
+whose united streams form the Ohio. They are
+both passed by a fine wooden bridge.</p>
+
+<p>The city contains 12,000 inhabitants; but if
+the suburbs are included in the calculation, its
+population will amount to nearly 23,000. It
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span>may be called the western capital of Pennsylvania.
+It manufactures annually about 18,000
+tons of iron, and the same quantity of steel. It
+has also an extensive manufactory of cotton and
+glass. Bituminous coal is found in the greatest
+plenty in the neighbourhood, and in consequence
+of the smoke and black dust from the manufactories,
+the shopkeepers complain that it is impossible
+to keep any thing clean. I entered
+Pittsburgh on the 4th of July, on which day, as
+every one knows, the Declaration of Independence
+was signed at Philadelphia. It is, of
+course, always and universally a day of rejoicing
+in the United States. The militia are called out,
+a public dinner is always given in every town
+and village in the Union, and an appropriate
+oration is delivered by the appointed orator of
+the day. I regretted I did not arrive in time to
+be present at the dinner, which had taken place
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>under the shade of some trees on the opposite
+side of the Alleghany, but I heard a great number
+of sentiments delivered, without being drank.
+Any bystander wrote an idea upon a slip of paper
+and handed it to the orator, who read it aloud to
+the company. They were all more or less
+patriotic, but usually couched in the most ridiculous
+bombastic language. The cause of reform
+in England, was a frequent theme of eulogy.
+William the reformer was applauded as being
+more glorious than William the Conqueror.
+Henry Brougham was coupled with Henry Clay,
+and a drunken Irishman requested “parmission
+to give a woluntary toast,” and lauded his
+majesty to the skies, in terms which I cannot
+pretend to recollect.</p>
+
+<p>On this day died, at New York, James
+Monroe, the fifth president of the United States,
+having twice held that office from 1817 to 1825.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span>His eulogy was spoken by Mr. Adams, who
+appears to be the orator-general upon such
+occasions, and who, in the true spirit of republicanism,
+thinks it no degradation to take his seat
+as a member of congress after having once filled
+the president’s chair. Mr. Monroe was five
+years of age at the date of the Stamp Act. At
+an early age he joined the standard of Washington,
+when others were deserting it. He was
+present at the celebrated passage of the Delaware
+at Trenton, was wounded in the subsequent
+engagement, and was afterwards present
+in the actions of Brandywine, Germantown,
+and Monmouth. He took his seat in the federal
+congress in June 1783, at the age of twenty-four.
+He was at first opposed to the adoption
+of the articles of the constitution, believing
+them to be imperfect, and of little remedial
+efficacy; although he was decidedly in favour of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span>some important change in the existing government
+under the articles of confederation. Mr.
+Monroe was appointed by President Washington,
+the minister plenipotentiary to the court of
+France, and was received with splendid formality
+by the national convention; but being unsuccessful
+in his negociations, he was recalled, and
+Mr. Pinkney appointed in his place. He was
+afterwards appointed governor of Virginia. When
+Napoleon had 20,000 veterans assembled at
+Helvoet-sluys, ready for embarkation to Louisiana.
+Mr. Monroe was sent over by President
+Jefferson on a special commission. On his
+arrival, the war between Great Britain and
+France was rekindling, and the danger to
+Louisiana was averted. In conjunction with
+Mr. Pinkney, the then United States’ minister
+at Madrid, he concluded the treaty by which
+Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span>the year 1803. This state was in the possession
+of the Spaniards from 1762 till 1800, when it
+was again ceded to the French, the original
+settlers. The United States paid 15,000,000
+of dollars for it; Mr. Monroe afterwards went
+to England as minister plenipotentiary, he was
+present in Paris at the coronation of Napoleon.
+He returned to the United States in 1807, and
+became secretary of state in 1811, and afterwards
+secretary at war. In 1817 he was elected
+president, and was re-elected in 1821 without
+opposition. His opinion on the subject of internal
+improvements, was, that a power of establishing
+a general system of internal improvement
+had not been delegated to congress, and he
+returned a bill to the house, in which it originated,
+with a justification of his exercise of
+prerogative, in an able and elaborate exposition
+of the reasons for the refusal of his assent. It
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>is a very singular fact, that Mr. Monroe is the
+third out of four deceased presidents, who have
+died on the 4th July. The circumstances attending
+the deaths of Presidents Jefferson and John
+Adams were very extraordinary. A committee
+of five was originally appointed to draw up
+the articles of the constitution. Jefferson and
+Adams were selected as a sub-committee, and
+were in fact the real framers of the constitution.
+These two gentlemen died on the 4th of July,
+in the same year, and the news of their decease
+arrived at exactly the same time on the same
+day, at Philadelphia, where the Declaration of
+Independence was signed.</p>
+
+<p>From Pittsburgh I rode to Braddock’s field.
+It was pointed out to me about three hundred
+yards from the bank of the Monongahela. The
+ground has been considerably cleared since the
+action took place; but it seems to have been
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span>admirably adapted to the Indian mode of warfare,
+on account of the undulating surface of the
+field, that enabled the Indians, with the aid of
+the forest with which it was then covered, to lie
+in ambush, and fire without being perceived.
+When, as a child, I used to read the account of
+this sanguinary conflict, as narrated by the
+highlander in the history of “Sandford and
+Merton,” little did I dream that I should ever
+stand upon the field of battle.</p>
+
+<p>From Pittsburg, I proceeded for fifteen miles
+down the western bank of the Ohio to Economy,
+a German settlement, under the superintendence
+of Mr. Rapp, conducted on a system somewhat
+resembling that of Mr. Owen of Lanark. The
+members call themselves the “Brothers;” and
+have a community of property. Any person,
+of any country, however poor, may become a
+member, by conforming to the rules, and submitting
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span>to learn one of the trades or other
+occupations which are taught in the society.
+If he be weary of its regulations, he is at
+liberty to leave it, and takes with him, from
+the public fund, all that he brought into it:
+his earnings, during his stay, becoming general
+property. It is open on the same terms, even
+to the entirely destitute. The town is regularly
+built, and extremely neat: there are 4000 acres
+of land belonging to the establishment, cultivated
+by the members, and at the expense of the
+society; they have a good museum, an admirable
+band, and public concerts twice in the week.
+The “Brothers” are chiefly Lutherans, from
+Wirtenberg, where I understood they originally
+attempted to form a society of the same kind,
+but it became obnoxious to the government, and
+was suppressed. Mr. Rapp himself is a Lutheran
+clergyman, and preaches the doctrine of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>brotherly love. His first settlement was on the
+Wabash river, several hundred miles to the
+south; but he sold the place to Mr. Owen,
+whose philanthropic exertions were, as usual,
+unattended with success. Mr. Rapp occasionally
+goes to Philadelphia, in search of recruits
+amongst the latest importations from Germany;
+and it will be readily believed, that he enlists
+none but his own countrymen to undergo this
+voluntary confinement, and second schooling.
+It is scarcely necessary to mention, that marriage
+and a continuance in the society, are incompatible.
+It is said, that Mr. Rapp’s system has
+been sufficiently successful to cheat him into the
+idea, that his calling, if not of the prophetic, is,
+at least, of the patriarchal order.</p>
+
+<p>At Economy, I joined the passing steam-boat
+for Maysville. For about a hundred and
+fifty miles of its course, the average width of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span>Ohio is not greater than that of the Thames at
+Vauxhall bridge. It is often very low; and
+not navigable for steam-boats. The water is
+then extremely clear; but when I saw it, the
+river had been swelled by the late rains, and
+was very muddy. The surface of its unruffled
+and rapid stream was nearly covered by trunks
+of trees, which had been washed down by the
+torrents from the forests, and rendered it often
+necessary to stop the engine, in order to prevent
+accidents to the paddles. In our passage down
+the river we passed, amongst others, Blennerhasset’s
+Island, so called from its having been the
+residence of a person of that name, who had
+involved himself in the supposed conspiracy of
+Colonel Barr, who, in 1806, fitted out an armed
+expedition on the Ohio, with which he intended
+either to make a hostile incursion into the
+Spanish territories, or, according to the more
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>general belief, to make himself master of New
+Orleans, with a view to the formation of an
+independent power. Blennerhasset had beautified
+the island at a great expense, but his property
+was confiscated by order of government.</p>
+
+<p>We passed Wheeling, a town containing
+about 6000 inhabitants, and manufactories of the
+same kind as those at Pittsburg. At this place,
+it is said, that the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road
+is to come in contact with the river.</p>
+
+<p>Maysville is a much prettier town, with a
+more picturesque situation; and looks well, in
+spite of its red houses. I ascended a hill whence
+I had a fine view of the Ohio, which is here
+above a quarter of a mile in width. It is observable
+of its banks, that they never rise to any
+height, directly from the water, on both sides of
+the river at the same time. If they are abrupt
+on the one side, the opposite shore is sure to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span>display a fine strip of cultivated land intervening
+between the hills and the river, in the back
+ground. Near Portsmouth, on the Ohio, is a
+slip of ground containing 4000 acres, the whole
+of it planted with Indian corn, but it is hidden
+from the view of the steam-boat passengers
+by the trees on the margin of the river.</p>
+
+<p>About twenty-four miles from Maysville, on
+the road to Lexington, is a very fine sulphureous
+spring, called “the Blue Lick.” There
+are several houses in the neighbourhood for the
+accommodation of visiters, who resort thither for
+the benefit of the water.</p>
+
+<p>Lexington is the neatest country town I
+had yet seen in the United States; the streets
+are regular and spacious, and delightfully shaded
+by acacia trees, which are planted before every
+house: it contains about 6000 inhabitants. Although
+comfortable and cheerful in its appearance,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>Lexington is the only place of note in the
+United States, whose prosperity, for several
+years, has been on the decline. It could boast
+of excellent society; but being an inland town,
+and supported only by the surrounding country,
+it is now paying the penalty for having enlarged
+itself beyond its means of supply. One additional
+cause of its decline is the great increase
+of steam navigation on the Ohio and Mississippi,
+which affords so much greater facility to travellers
+going to New Orleans than the land
+route, which runs through Lexington. A college
+which had been established here did not
+answer the expectations of its founders, and a
+few years since was unfortunately burnt.</p>
+
+<p>Till lately the greatest confusion prevailed
+through the whole of Kentucky, in consequence
+of the complicated state of titles to landed
+property, which has considerably retarded the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span>advance of its prosperity. Lands were sold by
+the government of Virginia before the separation
+of Kentucky from that state, without having
+been previously surveyed and marked out. The
+consequence was, that four or five different persons
+entered with their warrants of possession,
+as purchasers of the same lots, where, in many
+cases, their interest had already been sold and
+re-sold. The endless litigation occasioned by
+this state of affairs produced a law, limiting the
+time of action to seven years, after which the
+occupier was to remain in undisputed possession
+of the property.</p>
+
+<p>The system of country banks has been still
+more ruinous to Lexington, and the state of
+Kentucky generally. They were first established
+towards the end of the year 1817. The persons
+principally connected with them were members of
+the legislature; about forty of them were opened
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span>with, of course, a very limited capital, but an
+unlimited supply of paper. The establishment
+of the branch bank of the United States obliged
+them to pay in specie, and the consequence
+was the greatest embarrassment in their affairs.
+The directors enacted what laws they pleased, to
+save themselves from the impending ruin: they
+abolished imprisonment for debt, and passed
+what were called stay laws,—general and particular
+enactments, which extended the time of
+payment; a desperate mode of proceeding, and
+which only served to plunge them deeper in the
+mire. Those who were of opinion that payment
+of debts, contracted at a time when paper
+was the only currency, could not now be
+demanded in specie, contrived to get a law
+passed establishing a new court, filled by judges
+whose opinions coincided with their own, and
+who were removable at pleasure. The decisions
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>of this court were at variance with those
+of the old one, and a new and old court party
+immediately arose. The judges of the new
+court, however, immediately resigned. Public
+and private credit is still at a low ebb, and the
+ultimate ruin of many of the leading families
+in the state, who are connected with the banks,
+appears, I was informed, almost unavoidable.</p>
+
+<p>A rail-road to Louisville is shortly to be
+commenced, which will, no doubt, much benefit
+the town and surrounding country. At
+the distance of a mile stands the English-looking
+residence of Henry Clay, Esq., whose public
+services are too well known to need any remark
+here.</p>
+
+<p>I visited several caves in this neighbourhood;
+that called Russell’s cave, distant about
+six miles, is most worthy of attention. It is
+three quarters of a mile in length, formed in a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span>rock, composed of innumerable strata of marine
+shells, embedded in lime-stone. The action of
+water, occasioning an immense pressure, is evident
+at first sight. A delicious spring issues
+from the cave, which unfortunately was so
+swollen as to prevent my entrance. Three
+miles hence, I observed two Indian forts. The
+larger is surrounded by a trench, which is now
+about seven feet deep and three quarters of an
+inch in length. In the swollen one the ditch
+is considerably deeper and more distinct, encircling
+it on every side, excepting where an
+entrance, wide enough to admit a carriage, has
+been left untouched by the spade.</p>
+
+<p>At Lexington, I was much amused at the
+master-aping manners of the slaves. They give
+themselves great airs. On Sundays they either
+hire hacks, or more commonly ride their masters’
+horses. I saw dozens of them, attended by
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>their females, playing the agreeable on horseback,
+and “doing a bit of park” “à la militaire.”
+The slaves of the southern states are a
+very happy race. In some places their numbers
+constitute a “plaie politique,” equally troublesome,
+and far more formidable, than the system
+of poor laws in England. In many places they
+far outnumber the whites, who are obliged to
+use great precautions, and restrict their slaves
+in many particulars. About twenty years ago
+a conspiracy was formed by the negroes at
+Lexington: a house was to be set on fire, and
+whilst every one repaired to the spot, they were
+to take possession of a large stand of arms kept
+at the inn, and the defenceless crowd were to be
+fired upon. The bank was to be plundered,
+and the town burnt. The conspiracy was discovered
+by a negress, who, on the preceding
+evening, told her master that the leaders were
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>below, in deliberation, and that if he would
+listen, he would be convinced of the truth of
+what she said. He did so, and they were taken
+into custody.</p>
+
+<p>There are still such animals in existence as
+slave merchants, but they are not numerous.
+Slaves are purchased in different parts of the
+country, and sent down the Mississippi to the
+sugar plantations at New Orleans. An able-bodied
+young negro is worth three hundred
+dollars, and the merchant is encouraged in his
+brutal traffic by a sure market, and a profit of
+at least thirty-five, and frequently of forty or
+forty-five per cent., after deducting the necessary
+expenses for food and clothing, and making
+allowances for losses by death and accident.
+Three or four years back, one of these men and
+his assistants were murdered on the Mississippi
+by a cargo of slaves, who spared no torture
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span>that could be applied by means of fire and
+steel.</p>
+
+<p>In Virginia, if a black is freed by his master
+he is presented as a nuisance by the grand jury,
+and generally is not allowed to remain in the
+state. In Kentucky, a freed man cannot leave
+his native county without quitting the state
+entirely; and a master who emancipates his
+slave, is obliged to give security to the county
+for his maintenance. Even a white man, who
+would be called a vagrant in England, is there
+liable, not only to be taken up but to be sold, for
+two or three months, to the highest bidder,
+who has the power of treating him as a slave,
+if he refuse to work. When any ship arrives
+at Charleston in South Carolina, the police immediately
+go on board, and have the power of
+arresting the black cook, or any free negro they
+find there, who is placed in confinement till the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span>ship is ready to put to sea again. So jealous
+are they of the presence of a free negro, that
+a master is not permitted to emancipate his slave
+without sending him out of the state; and if a
+slave has left South Carolina, in the capacity of
+valet with his master, and has once obtained his
+liberty, by setting foot in a free state, he is
+never allowed to return. At Washington, the
+sound of the slave auctioneer’s hammer may be
+heard within a short distance of the capitol.
+In Virginia, the country of Hampden-Sydney
+College, the slave population amounted, in 1830,
+to 469,724, being larger than that of any other
+state, and bearing a proportion to the whites of
+rather less than four to six. In Georgia there
+is a county, most appropriately called Liberty
+County, where the slave population is to the
+whites as five to one.</p>
+
+<p>The slave children are not instructed to read
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span>or write at the expense of their masters; if they
+enjoy these advantages, they have been taught
+by persons of their own colour. If they could
+write, they would forge their pass-papers, and run
+away; and those who can, are always ready to do
+this for those who cannot. The slave population
+could not be educated, and remain long in a
+state of bondage. Its march of intellect would
+be stronger and more terrible than the fire in
+the vast American forests which it would traverse:
+to check it is impossible, and flight is
+unavailing; so that the only means of avoiding
+destruction is to add vigour, and give direction
+to the flame.</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+Chè più facil sarìa svolger il corso<br>
+Presso Cariddi alla volubil onda,<br>
+O tardar Borea allor che scote il dorso<br>
+Dell’ Appennino, e i legni in mare affonda.
+</blockquote>
+
+<p class="noindent">The apparent advantage of procuring labour
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span>for nothing is often far outweighed by the
+consequences arising from the idle and careless
+manners of the slaves, and the expense
+incurred in their maintenance. Two white
+men will easily perform the work of three
+negroes, when the weather is not intolerably
+hot. They do as little as they can for their
+masters; but on a holiday they will work for
+each other like real slaves. Even an unaccustomed
+eye would recognize a slave district by
+the slovenly appearance of the farms, and of
+every thing connected with them. The residence
+of the slaves is usually at some little
+distance from the dwelling-house of their master.
+The quarter, as it is termed, consists of a number
+of small huts, with a larger house for the
+overseer, and will sometimes contain three hundred
+or four hundred negroes, with their families,
+and all more or less distantly related to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span>each other. An arable farm will scarcely pay,
+unless its superintendent be a man of skill, firmness,
+and perseverance. So much depends upon
+him, that if he be a person of that character, a
+good farm, one year with another, will return a
+profit of eight or ten per cent.; but it is usually
+not so large, and is never equal to the emolument
+of an attentive agriculturist in the
+northern states, where slaves are unknown.</p>
+
+<p>By the last census, the total population of
+the United States was 12,856,165: of these
+2,010,436 were slaves, existing only in what
+are termed the southern states, of which Maryland
+is the most northerly. It is said, that
+supposing an inclination to secede from the
+Union should be prevalent in the southern
+states, the danger they would incur from their
+inability to defend themselves against their black
+population, would be a sufficient reason for their
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>thinking twice on the subject. There can be no
+doubt, that the slaves, with an offer of liberty,
+would prove a most formidable weapon in the
+hands of an enemy. This, however, is not
+very likely to take place, at least not as yet.
+Before I quitted America a partial insurrection
+had taken place in Virginia, in which
+sixty or seventy persons were brutally massacred
+by the negroes; and it is most probable that the
+state legislature will consider of some measures
+by which the superabundant slave population may
+be effectually disposed of. Their attention will
+probably be directed to the colony of Liberia, on
+the windward coast in Africa, hitherto supported
+exclusively by the funds and management of the
+colonization society, which provides vessels for
+the transportation of slaves manumitted on condition
+of their departure for that place. Within
+the last few years two or three hundred negroes
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span>have been annually sent out of the country in
+this manner. The capital of the colony, which is
+defended by a garrison, is called Monrovia, because
+it was founded during the presidency of
+Mr. Monroe. The blacks support themselves by
+traffic with the natives, and by cultivating the soil.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>I really think I had not seen more than one
+or two ponds in the United States, before I
+entered the state of Kentucky; there, they are
+common enough, and plenty of bull-frogs may
+usually be heard grunting in the mud on their
+margins. With the aid of a little fancy, there
+is certainly some truth in the assertion, that the
+noise they make resembles the words “blood
+and ’ounds,” repeated in a very deep and coarse
+human voice.</p>
+
+<p>I confess that I had formed an erroneous
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span>idea of Kentucky, at least, of that part of it
+through which I passed. Contrary to my expectations,
+I found the land as much cleared as
+in any state I had previously seen. The soil is
+very rich in many parts; and will produce five
+or six crops of Indian corn or wheat, in successive
+years, without the assistance of manure. It is a
+positive fact, that the grazing farmers will not
+unfrequently pull down and remove the sheds in
+the fields, sooner than incur the trouble and
+expense of clearing away the quantity of manure
+that has accumulated in them. Labour is dear,
+and land is cheap; so that a farmer who can
+clear good fresh land whenever he pleases, has no
+inducement to be at the expense which is necessarily
+laid out on a farm in England, before it is
+rendered sufficiently productive. The dressing
+of land, by laying on manure or otherwise
+improving it, would, in Kentucky, be considered
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>generally, a waste of labour. Hemp is the
+staple article of produce in this state.</p>
+
+<p>The finest specimens of American forest
+scenery are to be found in Kentucky: the oaks
+and sycamores, in particular, grow to an immense
+size, and throw a delicious shade on the soil
+beneath; which is often free from all kinds of
+underwood, and covered with a carpet of greensward,—affording
+the finest pasture ground
+imaginable to great numbers of cattle, which
+are constantly grazing there. I was forcibly
+reminded of the beautiful description in the
+opening scene of “Ivanhoe.”</p>
+
+<p>I had resolved to visit the great Mammoth
+cave in Kentucky, distant about 120 miles from
+Lexington, on the right of the Nashville road.
+I accordingly proceeded in that direction, and
+soon arrived on the banks of the Kentucky river.
+I considered this ferry as a most beautiful specimen
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span>of Indian scenery. The river is here
+seventy or eighty yards across, and flows with
+a dark and quiet stream, between two very high
+cliffs, whose bold, bare, limestone fronts are
+seen to great advantage, as they rise above the
+mass of forest, that intervenes between their
+base and the water. It bore some resemblance
+to Swinsund ferry, on the frontier of Sweden
+and Norway, although certainly inferior.</p>
+
+<p>Shaker’s town is occupied as the name implies,
+by persons of that sect. One of their
+number, which amounts to a few hundreds, is
+an architect, and this accounts for the superior
+build of their houses. From Glasgow, a cross
+road conducted me to Bell’s tavern, a solitary
+house standing at the meeting of the Lexington
+and Louisville roads, to Nashville, in the midst
+of what are called “the barrens.” These
+barrens, it is supposed by many, were originally
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span>Prairies, or “Pararas,” as they are called by
+the lower class of Americans, but are now principally
+covered by dwarf oaks. Wild turkeys,
+deer, pheasants, and the bird called the barren
+hen, which is also the prairie hen, and the
+grouse of the northern and middle states, are
+found in the barrens; cougars, wolves, foxes, &amp;c.
+are also to be met with there. At Bell’s tavern,
+which, by the way, is a very comfortable little
+country inn, I procured horses and a guide, and
+set out for the Mammoth cave. After an
+agreeable and shady ride of seven miles, I
+arrived at a small lonely log house tavern,
+built about a hundred yards from the mouth of
+the great cave. There are several smaller caves
+in the neighbourhood; but the only one of these
+I visited was the white cave; of no extent, but
+curious, on account of the number, and diversified
+shape of its stalactitic formations, formed
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span>by the depositions of water, dropping through
+the limestone rock.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately in front of the inn, begins a
+narrow path winding down a dark ravine, which
+conducts to the cave. Its entrance is overshadowed
+by the dark foliage of the surrounding
+trees, and its appearance altogether is exceedingly
+gloomy, and calculated to inspire a feeling
+of horror. The presence of two beautiful humming
+birds very much heightened by contrast the
+effects of the scene. They were darting in all
+directions, as quickly as the eye could follow;
+sometimes passing with the greatest rapidity
+across the mouth of the cave, or remaining
+for an instant, motionless in the air, as they
+sipped, on the wing, of the water that was
+incessantly dripping from the projecting rock.
+I could not but think of the incantation scene in
+“Der Freychütze.”</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span></p>
+
+<p>The very sudden encounter of cold air at
+the mouth of the cave, is more agreeable
+than safe during the hot weather. Not that the
+air itself is damp or unwholesome; on the contrary,
+it is particularly dry and healthy. I have
+been told of its acting as a febrifuge, and
+can easily believe it. A great quantity of salt-petre
+was made there during the late war. The
+works still remain, but have not been used for
+many years. The salt was procured by pouring
+water over a wooden trough, filled with the earth
+from the cave, which, when saturated, was allowed
+to run off; was then boiled, and the salt separated
+by vaporization. By this process, two pounds of
+salt-petre were procured from one bushel of
+earth. The air is so highly impregnated with
+the saline particles, that meat, butter, cheese,
+and many other substances, after remaining a
+short time in the cave, become of a bright red
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span>colour, and are unfit for use. I was attended by
+an old man, and two boys, sons of the landlord,
+each of us carrying a small lamp, with an additional
+supply of grease to trim them. The
+rock is very low near the entrance, but soon
+expands to a magnificent size. The average
+width and height may be about seventy feet, but
+in some places it is more lofty, and far wider.
+I first visited an <ins class="corr" id="TN-1" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: antehamber">antechamber</ins>, and walked a mile
+before I reached the end, where there is a small
+but curious waterfall, that has worked its way
+into the side of the rock in a serpentine direction.
+Sulphur, red and yellow ochre, may be
+picked up there; and gum borax, sulphate of
+magnesia, and sulphate of soda, are found adhering
+to the walls in considerable quantities, but
+not in every part. We returned from the antechamber
+and proceeded up the principal part of
+the cave. The roof and sides were but little
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>broken, and in general their evenness and regularity
+of angle were surprising. The walking
+was very good at first; but our passage was soon
+impeded and rendered fatiguing, by the enormous
+number of loose blocks of limestone, that
+were heaped up on every side. At intervals
+we came to a small pyramid composed of broken
+fragments, raised by the aborigines, who have
+left traces of their existence throughout the
+whole of North America. I pulled down one
+of them, and found only the remains of a fire;
+similar marks are to be seen on the bare rock
+in many parts of the cave. Pieces of cane with
+which Kentucky originally abounded, within the
+memory of many now living, were strewed
+around, having evidently afforded the fuel with
+which these fires were fed. In some places the
+face of the rock had been slightly worked, but
+for what purpose will for ever remain undetermined.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span>The floor of the cave is generally
+parallel with the surface of the ground above,
+as no great rise or fall is perceivable throughout
+its entire direction. At about the distance of a
+mile and a half from its mouth, the cave takes
+a majestic bend to the left, and two miles further
+we arrived at what is called “the cross
+roads.” From this large and gloomy expanse,
+four distinct caverns branch out in different
+directions. The glare of our lamps was just
+sufficiently powerful to display the opening on
+the left. It looked as black and dismal as
+darkness could make it, and was formed by vast
+fragments of rock, thrown together with a
+confusion equalling that at the pass in the Pyrenees,
+usually known by the name of Chaos.
+We clambered over them, and after half an
+hour’s walking, we arrived at what seemed to
+be the termination of the cavern; but, in the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span>corner on the left, is a kind of natural chimney,
+through which we climbed to another chamber.
+It did not much differ from the other parts of
+the cave, excepting that it is much wider in
+proportion to its length, and the roof blacker.
+A solitary bat was clinging to it, and was the
+only living animal I saw in the cave. No others
+inhabit this mansion of utter darkness. The
+small pyramids of stone, and the marks of fire,
+were very numerous. We explored the other
+branches of the cave in succession. At intervals
+the huge blocks of limestone rose nearly to the
+roof, and seemed to set progress at defiance; but,
+after mastering the summit, we were enabled
+to continue, till we reached another and similar
+difficulty. The cave never appeared to such
+effect as when seen from the top of one of these
+eminences; because its downward dimensions
+were not visible by the light of the lamps, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span>a bottomless pit was an easy conjecture. The
+most terrific place is what is called the cataracts;
+here, the floor sinks away to a greater depth,
+and a large chasm is formed on one side by
+gigantic mis-shapen rocks, fearfully disposed
+over the head of the explorer, as he gladly
+descends to refresh himself with a draught of
+the pure, delicious water, that falls from the
+roof. I thought I had never before seen anything
+so unearthly, excepting perhaps, the crater
+of Vesuvius. We subsequently entered a
+smaller part of the cave, which is gradually
+contracted into so narrow a passage, that we
+were obliged to crawl on all fours. It led us, in
+a few minutes, to the brink of a large black pit,
+down which I tossed some fragments of stone,
+and we heard them descending from rock to
+rock, for the depth, I should judge, of 150 feet.
+In this manner I visited three, and I have
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span>reason to believe, all the four extremities, of the
+principal branches of the cave. I had been told
+that it was as much as twelve miles to the end of
+the cavern which I entered through the chimney,
+and that the cave itself had been explored
+for more than fourteen. The guides make it
+out to be more than double its real length.
+I was more than six hours under ground, and
+moving almost incessantly, during which time,
+as nearly as I could calculate, I walked but
+nine or ten miles. The extreme ends of the
+principal branches, I should say, were between
+four and five. There are several smaller chambers,
+which I did not visit, but I heard that
+they contained nothing new, or different from
+the others; and feeling greatly fatigued, was
+glad to emerge into the open air. I found it
+requisite to pause at the entrance: there is
+no intermediate temperature between the cool,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span>but not chilly air of the cave, and the sultry
+atmosphere of noon. The sensation was extraordinary;
+with both my arms extended, one hand
+would be warm, at the same time that I would
+gladly withdraw the other from the contact of
+the colder air of the cave. Those who do not
+take the precaution of waiting a few minutes,
+are almost invariably attacked with giddiness,
+or a fainting fit.</p>
+
+<p>I had erred in believing that the huge bones
+of the mammoth and other quadrupeds at present
+unknown, had been found in this cave;
+and in imagination I had listened to the dying
+cries of agony sent forth by those stupendous
+animals as they struggled in the thundering
+billow of the deluge that had risen, and rolled
+into their hiding place, and reduced them to
+a state of frenzy and desperation. But it has
+received its name of the “mammoth cave”
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span>only on account of its superior size and extent:
+the term being frequently applied where size
+or importance is intended to be designated.
+For instance, the branch bank of the United
+States at Cincinnati, is called the Mammoth
+bank. None but human bones have been found
+in this cave. These were often dug up by
+the saltpetre manufacturers, and were usually
+found lying side by side, but separated and
+covered over by a rough slab of limestone. I
+was informed that upwards of a hundred skeletons
+had been there unearthed; and it is
+probable that more are still remaining in different
+parts of the cave. In general they are
+not larger than those of the ordinary race of
+men. They are doubtless the remains of some
+of that ancient nation, whose very name is
+unknown; whose customs and occupation are
+unrecorded; whose chiefs and heroes remain
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span>unchronicled, and whose existence is to be traced
+only in the monuments of death or warfare.</p>
+
+<p>The manner in which this and the other
+caves in Kentucky have been formed may,
+perhaps, be more than conjectured. They are
+all composed of secondary limestone, resting
+on a substratum of sand,—a singular formation,
+but one that is common in this part of America.
+The sand may have been gradually dislodged
+by the action of water; a theory which
+the sloping nature of the ground between the
+cave and the Green river, only a few hundred
+yards distant, does not contradict. A gentleman
+informed me that he had lately witnessed
+a similar process. He had for a long time
+watched the increase of a small sand bank, that
+had been forming in a stream on his own property
+in the lower part of Kentucky,—and
+upon further examination he found, as he expected,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span>that a cave had been gradually hollowed
+out by the action of the water behind
+it. The whole of this country and the region
+watered by the Mississippi, is diluvial, and in
+many places marine shells and the fossil remains
+of marine animals have been found in
+great abundance.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of the cave, there are
+a great many wild turkeys, and a tolerable
+sprinkling of deer, but both were difficult of
+approach at that season of the year. I was
+exceedingly anxious for a shot at a wild turkey,
+but committed a great error in loading with ball
+only; and although I contrived to get three or
+four fair shots on the ground, and on the wing,
+yet I confess through eagerness to have missed
+them. Once I contrived to near a brood, but
+had the mortification, although close to them, to
+hear them rising one by one on the other side of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span>a thicket; and when I did pull at the last bird,
+my gun, which was loaded with shot, missed fire
+through the badness of the copper cap. After
+vainly toiling through the forest in search of a
+deer, for one whole August day, I was poacher
+enough to drop down the Green river in a canoe,
+in the vicinity of the cave, at two in the morning,
+in order to get a shot at one whilst feeding
+upon the moss at the bottom of the river. A
+light was placed at the head of the boat with a
+board behind it. I sat in the middle of the
+canoe, which was paddled forward by a man
+at the stern; both of us being as silent as
+possible. The darker the night, the better; the
+deer stand gazing at the light, till the canoe
+almost touches them; they appear as white as
+a sheep, and the aim of a Kentucky rifle is
+usually too true, at any reasonable distance, to
+render the death of one of them an uncertainty.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span>But I was again unfortunate. I had been disappointed
+in the attendance of an experienced
+hunter, whom I had engaged to go with me,
+and my companion, who was a novice, allowed
+three deer that were standing close to us, but
+not distinguishable by me among the tall sedge,
+to run off untouched by the random shot I sent
+after them. The back-woodsmen are excellent
+marksmen, their rifles are long and heavy, carrying
+a very small ball, often not bigger than a
+large pea. With these a good shot will alternately
+hit and miss the head of a squirrel at
+sixty yards distance.</p>
+
+<p>I returned to Bell’s tavern with the determination
+of advising every travelling friend
+who visited Kentucky, by no means to leave
+that state without having seen the Mammoth
+cave; and I think that a sportsman, well provided
+with dogs, guns, &amp;c., might well spend
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span>a week in a very satisfactory manner by taking
+up his quarters at Bell’s tavern. When we had
+forded the Green river, the coachman addressed
+a man on the opposite side, and asked him
+how his wife was, “Thank ’e, I guess, she’s
+smartly unwell this morning,” was the reply.</p>
+
+<p>Louisville is about ninety miles from the
+cave. For the last twenty, the road runs along
+the banks of the Ohio, passing through the
+most magnificent forest of beech trees I had
+ever beheld. There is nothing remarkable in
+the appearance of Louisville. It is a large
+and regularly built town, containing 11,000
+inhabitants. From this place the larger steam-boats
+start for New Orleans. Those that come
+from Pittsburgh are of smaller dimensions, on
+account of the shallowness of the water. The
+course of the Ohio, from Pittsburgh to Louisville
+is about 600 miles, and thence, to its
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span>confluence with the Mississippi, is nearly 300
+more. The length of the Mississippi, from its
+junction with the Ohio, is 1200. The falls,
+or rapids of the Ohio, are immediately below
+Louisville, and part of them may be seen from
+the town.</p>
+
+<p>I had been very desirous of seeing St. Louis
+and the Missouri; but the season was too far
+advanced, and that part of the country is exceedingly
+unhealthy during the summer heats.
+Steam-boats run thither constantly, in three
+days, from Louisville. There is also a land
+conveyance, which occupies nearly the same
+time on the journey, and passes through the
+great Prairies, in Indiana and Illinois. Wild
+turkeys are there very plentiful; quails and
+Prairie-hens are frequently to be seen from the
+road in great abundance; and I would strongly
+recommend any traveller who is fond of shooting,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span>and who will put up with very indifferent
+accommodation, to proceed for about one hundred
+miles, or even less, by this road, into the
+Prairies, for the purpose of shooting. It must,
+however, be added, that he will probably kill
+much more than he can either eat or carry away.</p>
+
+<p>That there is a great quantity of game in
+some parts of America is indisputable; but it is
+equally so, that it is fast decreasing in others.
+Unless some attention be paid to preserving,
+deer will become extremely scarce, except in
+the unsettled country; and the breed of wild
+turkeys will be extinct, as they are not found
+much to the west of the Mississippi and Missouri
+rivers. Go where you will, you are told there
+is plenty of game of some kind; but the sportsman
+who relies on this information at this
+season of the year, while the trees are yet thick
+with foliage, will be surely disappointed. I
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span>have occasionally stayed for a day at different
+places, where I had been induced to believe
+that I should find some sport; but I seldom
+found any game, although I always took with me
+some person well acquainted with the woods.
+The want of dogs must certainly be taken into
+consideration.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Kentucky may be called
+the Gasçons of America. They have a humorous,
+good-natured, boasting, boisterous peculiarity
+of language and manner, by which they
+are known in all parts of the Union. To
+a stranger, they are courteous and hospitable;
+but amongst themselves, they quarrel and fight,
+like the Irish, for fun; or merely to see which
+is the best man, without any provocation; and
+they evince great partiality for their own state—which
+they familiarly denominate “Old Kentuck,”—perhaps
+more than the inhabitants of
+any other in the Union.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span></p>
+
+<p>Kentucky was originally used by the Indians
+as a hunting-field, and for no other purpose.
+The neighbouring nations agreed never to build
+upon it.</p>
+
+<p>From Louisville, I proceeded in a steam-boat
+to Cincinnati, in eighteen hours. About
+forty miles on this side of the town, we passed
+the mouth of the stream, so well known by the
+name of the “Big Bone Lick,” on account of
+the number of the bones of the mammoth and
+other animals that have been frequently dug up
+in its vicinity. There is a sulphur-spring, and
+a house for the accommodation of visitors. Our
+distinguished countryman, Mr. Bullock, whom
+I saw at Cincinnati, had been lately residing on
+the spot for three months, and had had twenty
+men constantly employed in digging. He had
+discovered, amongst other animals, the bones of
+a smaller and <ins class="corr" id="TN-2" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: distincts pecies">distinct species</ins> of migalonyx;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span>an animal having partly the generic character of
+the armadillo, and partly that of the sloth, and
+nearly equalling the rhinoceros in size. But
+the most remarkable remains were those of a
+young colt, and a gigantic horse, that could not
+have been less than twenty-four hands high.
+Unfortunately, however, for the advancement of
+science, they were all destroyed by a fire, which
+took place about three weeks before my arrival.
+The fossil remains of about thirty animals, now
+supposed to be extinct, have been found at the
+Big Bone Lick; and Mr. Bullock conjectures
+that there are no more remaining. That the
+animals did not perish on the spot, but were
+carried and deposited by the mighty torrent,
+which it is evident once swept over the face of
+the country, is probable, from the circumstance of
+marine shells, plants, and fossil substances having
+been found, not only mixed with the bones, but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span>adhering to them, and tightly wedged into the
+cavities of the skulls—“those holes where eyes
+did once inhabit,” were often stopped up by shells
+or pieces of coral, forcibly crammed into them.</p>
+
+<p>From the Big Bone to the Blue Lick, a
+distance of about sixty miles, there is a buffalo-path.
+Those animals existed in great numbers
+in this part of the country, within the memory
+of many individuals now living. They passed
+from one favourite spring to the other in vast
+herds, always pursuing the same path, seldom
+turning to the right or left, and overturning
+very young trees, or any slight obstacle that
+might occur in their line of march. They have,
+however, long been killed off from the eastern
+side of the Ohio, and Mississippi; not being
+seen nearer than within fifty miles of St. Louis.
+They are found in innumerable herds in the
+widely extended plains of the Missouri, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span>towards the region of the rocky mountains.
+The Indians kill a great many of them, for the
+sake of their skins, which sell in Philadelphia at
+four dollars a piece, while that of a bear may be
+purchased for three. They are so numerous,
+that this traffic occasions no perceptible difference
+in the size of the herds. An Indian will
+drive an arrow so hard that the point will appear
+on the other side of the buffalo. At certain
+seasons of the year, their tramping and bellowing
+may be heard at a vast distance on the
+plains, by putting the ear to the ground; and in
+this way, if heard in the morning, incredible as
+it may appear, it will sometimes be evening
+before the hunters can come up with them.
+The bonassus, exhibited some years ago in
+London, was merely the common American
+buffalo; which is, strictly speaking, the bison,
+or animal with the hump, and not the buffalo.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span>The bison is found of different sizes and under
+different names in Africa, in Asia, in the island
+of Madagascar, and on the Malabar coast; and
+exists, as we have seen, in immense numbers in
+North America; and it will associate with, and
+breed with tame cattle: but the real buffalo,
+which has no hump on the shoulder, is not found
+in the New Continent, but is common in India,
+and in Africa, near the Cape. I have also seen
+them in the Pontine marshes, where they are
+used for agricultural purposes. A marked difference
+between the buffalo and the bison, from
+the different varieties of which, it is supposed,
+that our domestic animals have descended, is to
+be observed in the fact of the tame cattle refusing
+to breed with the buffalo, and in the
+period of gestation in that animal being extended
+to a whole year.</p>
+
+<p>The navigation of the Ohio and the Mississippi,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span>is often rendered dangerous by the trunks
+of trees, or snags, as they are called, which, in
+floating down the stream, get entangled and
+stick fast in the mud at the bottom; presenting
+a most formidable, and frequently unseen point
+near the surface of the water. Our steamer ran
+upon one of them, but was soon got off again by
+means of a long spar of wood that was dropped
+into the water, and then used as a lever, with
+the side of the boat for a fulcrum, by means of
+a rope wound about the capstan and fastened to
+the top of the spar. In the midst of the confusion,
+an American stepped up to me, and said,
+“Stranger, I guess we’re in a bad fix!” To
+be in a good or a bad fix is an expression very
+commonly made use of in cases of dilemma.
+Speaking of a man placed in the stocks, for
+instance, a common American would remark,
+that he was in a “bad fix,” without the least
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span>fear of committing a pun, even at Philadelphia,
+where the disease is very prevalent. The American
+error is detected in the formal and decided
+accentuation of particular syllables in several
+common words, and in the laughable misuse of
+many others; and not in any mispronunciation
+of the language, generally. The word Engine,
+for instance, is pronounced Engīne; favourite,
+favourīte; European, Eurōpĕan, &amp;c. A patois,
+or provincial dialect, such as is heard in the
+more distant counties in England, is unknown
+amongst the natives of the United States; and
+the similarity of language to be heard in every
+part of the Union that I visited, could not but
+attract my attention as an Englishman. To
+travel by the mail, for two or three hundred
+miles, and to sit beside a coachman who spoke
+as good English as the one with whom I first
+started, had certainly, at least I thought so, the
+effect of shortening the distance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span></p>
+
+<p>The education of the poorer classes is very
+much attended to, excepting perhaps, in the
+more western states, where the inhabitants think
+they can get on just as well without it. In the
+Atlantic states, there is not one person in
+five hundred (I am speaking of native Americans),
+that cannot read and write. The mail
+would often stop opposite a solitary log-house,
+in the midst of the thickest forest, and throw
+down a newspaper, which was immediately
+picked up, and spelled over with the greatest
+avidity. Most of the back-woodsmen can talk
+with all reasonable correctness of the state of
+Europe generally, but the reform bills in England,
+and the Liverpool rail-road, were always
+amongst the most prominent subjects of eager
+inquiry. An Englishman cannot travel a mile
+in a stage coach in the United States, without
+being asked whether he has been on the Liverpool
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>rail-road. In Europe, and in France
+particularly, it is, “Have you seen de tunnel
+under de Thames?” It is the usefulness in
+forwarding the prosperity of a country that suggests
+the American query: whilst with the
+Frenchman, the use is entirely out of the question;
+he thinks merely of the magnitude and the
+novelty of the undertaking, and never fails to
+remark, that the engineer was a native of
+France. A great proportion of the inhabitants
+of the eastern states are Dutch and German.
+They are very numerous in different parts of
+Pennsylvania, where they have the character of
+being good and industrious farmers; but in other
+respects, they are very ignorant and opinionated,
+refusing the education that is offered to them
+gratis for their children, who are, of course, far
+behind the young Americans in intelligence.
+I have often, when passing through the forest,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>stopped to ask a cottager’s child of what country
+he was. A very frequent answer was, “Please,
+sir, father’s an Irishman, and mother’s Dutch;”
+and “I was raised here!” The latter expression
+is very commonly used when the place of
+nativity is inquired after. I have been frequently
+addressed with, Where were you raised,
+stranger? I guess you’re from the old country?
+There are about half-a-dozen words in constant
+use, to which an English ear is unaccustomed, in
+the sense they are meant to convey, such as—“to
+fix, to locate, to guess, to expect, to calkilate,
+&amp;c.” The verb “to fix,” has perhaps as many
+significations as any word in the Chinese language.
+If anything is to be done, made, mixed,
+mended, bespoken, hired, ordered, arranged,
+procured, finished, lent, or given, it would very
+probably be designated by the verb “to fix.”
+The tailor or bootmaker who is receiving your
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span>instructions, the barkeeper who is concocting
+for you a glass of mint-julep, promise alike
+to fix you, that is, to hit your taste exactly. A
+lady’s hair is sometimes said to be fixed, instead
+of dressed; and were I to give my coat or
+my boots to a servant to be brushed, and
+to tell him merely “to fix” them for me, he
+would perfectly understand what he had to do.
+There is a marked peculiarity in the word
+“clever.” In America, a man or woman may
+be very clever without possessing one grain of
+talent. The epithet is applied almost exclusively
+to a person of an amiable and obliging
+disposition. Mr. A. is a man of no talent! no!
+but then he is a very clever man! According to
+their meaning, Buonaparte was terribly stupid,
+and Lord North was a very clever fellow indeed.</p>
+
+<p>To say nothing of their oaths, their expressions
+are sometimes highly amusing. I
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span>have heard a horse described as a “raal smasher
+at trotting,” and a highway robbery considered
+as a “pretty middling tough piece of business;”
+with a vast number more of the same
+kind. I beg it may be understood, that I
+mean these remarks to apply chiefly to the
+middle and lower classes of Americans: the
+language of every one is perfectly intelligible,
+and as I have before remarked, there is no
+patois: I think it should rather be called a
+“slang.” There is also much less of the nasal
+twang than I had been taught to expect in
+American parley. Still I was informed, that
+many Americans when they hear a man talk,
+will instantly mention with certainty the country
+in which he has been long resident, being
+able to detect some words, accents, or expressions
+peculiar to each state. The English
+language does not contain words enough for
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span>them. The word congressional is a fair coinage
+from “Congress,” like the word parliamentary
+from parliament. But a member
+of congress is said to be deputized; and a person
+in danger, to be jeopardized. I remember
+that about two years ago being in the Jardin
+des Plantes, I was nearly “cameleopardized”
+by the giraffe that kicked at me. In New York
+I observed that a gunmaker had put up over
+his door, “Flint and steel guns altered and percussionized.”
+Although the meaning of all this
+is perfectly understood, still it is American, not
+English; and although the English language
+be in use, yet the very un-English construction
+and distorted meaning of many sentences, render
+it so different from the language spoken
+in good society in England, that I do not
+think it can safely be dignified with the name
+of good English. But the English spoken in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span>the first circles in all the larger cities of the
+Union, is usually very good: so that between
+the language of the English and the American
+gentleman, the difference is exceedingly slight;
+but still there is a difference here and there, by
+which I think any person of observation, who
+had been in the United States, could decide
+upon the country of the speaker, unless of
+course he had resided in England. I should
+however add, that I have in a few instances
+met with gentlemen whose language and pronunciation
+would have deceived any one.</p>
+
+<p>At Baltimore whilst taking a sketch, I told
+a drunken ill-favoured old nigger, that I would
+take his picture. He accordingly placed himself
+in attitude, and I soon hit him off with
+the camera-lucida. He was very much pleased,
+and showed the picture to his coloured friends,
+the slaves, who were working near me. He
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span>soon returned with an old black as ugly as
+himself, and said, that this man wished to have
+his “title” taken too.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Cincinnati, the emporium of
+commerce, and the largest city in Western
+America, containing 30,000 inhabitants, and
+thirty different places of worship. In appearance
+it differs from most of the larger towns
+in the United States, on account of the great
+improvement that has taken place in the colour
+of the houses, which, instead of being of the
+usual bright staring red, are frequently of a
+white grey, or a yellowish tint, and display a
+great deal of taste, and just ornament. The
+public buildings are not large, but very neat
+and classical; I admired the second Presbyterian
+church, which is a very pretty specimen
+of the Doric. The streets are handsome, and
+the shops have a very fashionable air. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span>principal trade of Cincinnati is in provisions.
+Immense quantities of corn and grain are sent
+down the Ohio and the Mississippi to New
+Orleans. Part of it is consumed by the sugar
+planters, who are supposed to grow no corn,
+and part is sent coastwise to Mobile, or exported
+to the Havannah and the West Indies generally.
+In the United States, the word “corn” is applied
+exclusively to the Indian corn or maize,
+other grain is specified by name as in England.
+The quantity of flour received in 1831 at New
+Orleans, amounted to 370,000 barrels, about
+150,000 barrels more than had been received
+in any former year. A great quantity of flour
+had also been shipped to England, but it is
+very often soured by the warmth of the water
+in the Gulf of Mexico. In 1828, the quantity
+of sugar produced at New Orleans was 88,878
+hogsheads of 1000 pounds each, and in 1827,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span>the number of sugar plantations was seven
+hundred, in which an aggregate capital of
+45,000,000 of dollars was invested.</p>
+
+<p>Cincinnati has displayed more wisdom than
+her opposite neighbour in Kentucky. A speculative
+system of banking was carried on about
+the same time, and was attended with the same
+results as those I have before noticed when
+speaking of that state. Credit was not to be
+obtained, commerce was at an end, and grass
+was growing in the streets of Cincinnati. But
+the judicature, with equal justice and determination,
+immediately enforced by its decisions the
+resumption of cash payments. Many of the
+leading families in the place were, of course,
+ruined, and at present there are not above five
+or six persons in Cincinnati, who have been
+able to regain their former eminence as men
+of business. But it was a sacrifice of individuals
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span>for the good of the community, and fortune only
+deserted the speculators in order to attend upon
+the capitalists, who quickly made their appearance
+from the eastern states, and have raised
+the city to its present pitch of prosperity.</p>
+
+<p>Cincinnati professes to have two excellent
+inns, both of which give promise of every comfort:
+the table was very good, but my rest was
+destroyed, not merely disturbed, by the worst
+of vermin. A clean bed, be it but of straw, is
+a <i>sine quâ non</i> with an English traveller; and as
+I did not feel perfectly well after breathing the
+unhealthy fogs of the Ohio, I had consoled
+myself with the idea of a comfortable sleep for
+that night at least. But I was wofully disappointed,
+being nearly in a fever; and when
+I was permitted to close my eyes for a few
+minutes, I dreamed of the most unconnected
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span>subjects,—bullfrogs, and universal suffrage, for
+instance.</p>
+
+<p>I started by the mail, in order to cross the
+country to Lake Erie. Before we were out of
+the town, the near leader became unmanageable,
+and the coach was overturned in the open street.
+I was on the box, and expected to be kicked
+to pieces, as I fell close to the horses; but providentially
+they all four galloped off with the
+two front wheels, and no one was hurt. It was
+scarcely day-light—no one was up—the coachman
+went after the horses, and it fell to my lot to
+deliver the coach of her nine inside passengers,
+who scrambled out one by one through the
+window, guessing and ‘calkilating’ the whole
+time.</p>
+
+<p>By the evening, we had reached the Yellow
+Springs; a fashionable watering place, taking
+its name from the colour imparted to the rocks
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span>by the water, which is chalybeate. A large
+boarding house for the accommodation of visitors
+is the only building of consequence in the
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>At Centreville, about twenty miles from the
+springs, is, or rather was, for it has been partly
+destroyed, a remarkably fine Indian fort; being
+a deep ditch lying between two raised banks,
+and inclosing a space of three quarters of a mile
+in circumference, on which the town is built.
+On the outside is a large mound, which had
+been lately opened, and was found to contain a
+number of human bones.</p>
+
+<p>At a distance of nine miles from the springs,
+on the Sandusky road, stands Springfield, a small
+thriving town, which like most of those in this
+part of the country, is exceedingly neat and
+clean. In the neighbourhood is a considerable
+number of English settlers, chiefly farmers from
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span>Yorkshire. There is no doubt that any man
+who is able and willing to work for his livelihood,
+can always, in two or three years, make
+himself master of a farm, in the back woods, in
+this or any other part of the Union. The
+average value of uncleared land, is a hundred
+dollars for eighty acres. A single man can
+every where earn at least twelve dollars a month.
+Provisions are exceedingly cheap; a sheep or a
+deer, can be purchased for a dollar; wheat may
+be about two shillings the bushel, and an acre
+of Indian corn, which is only one shilling the
+bushel, will produce twice the quantity that is
+raised on an acre of wheat. It is unfortunate
+that the common class of British emigrants are
+too much disposed to believe that a land of
+liberty is identified with a land of promise, and
+that when they emigrate to America, no difficulties
+will ever present themselves. The consequence
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span>is, that exaggerated accounts of their
+first troubles, bearing no proportion to their
+real privations, are frequently sent home to their
+friends in England: but I am convinced from
+my own observation, and occasional colloquy
+with my emigrant countrymen, that it must be
+a man’s own fault, however poor he may be
+at first, if he be not, in a very few years, to
+use a common phrase, completely above the
+world; be his occupation what it may. The
+English and Scotch commonly travel a long
+way into the western country, where they
+become farmers and graziers; the Irish prefer
+remaining in, or near the principal towns, and
+what is very unusual in Irishmen, they find
+employment as road-makers, canal-diggers, or
+bricklayers. Witness the result of free, and
+protecting institutions.—Fifty years ago, the
+population westward of the Alleghany did not
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span>exceed 15,000; now it amounts to 5,000,000!
+The population of priest-ridden Mexico has not
+increased for centuries.</p>
+
+<p>Columbus, the capital of the state of Ohio,
+contains nearly 4000 inhabitants. Its appearance
+is very promising, but there is nothing
+in it to detain the traveller.</p>
+
+<p>At Mansfield I was obliged to remain a day
+and a half, in consequence of the late rains
+having rendered the streams impassable. Fortunately
+I placed myself in very good quarters,
+at the inn or tavern, where I met with
+the greatest civility and attention, and far more
+comfort and cleanliness than is often found
+at a country inn in the United States. I
+passed a whole morning unsuccessfully with my
+gun in the woods. “Well, stranger, are you
+going gunning this morning?” “Yes; and
+pray what game is there in the forest here?”
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>I inquired. “Why, sir, there is robin, and
+some turkey, and considerable squirrel, about
+sundown.” The robin is a very common bird
+of the fieldfare genus, with a red breast, a little
+larger than our redwing. However, I met
+with no turkey, and contented myself with
+seeing my companion hit or “scare” (terrify)
+the squirrels with his rifle. Sassafras, sarsaparilla,
+and ginseng, are found in these forests.
+The latter root is so plentiful as to be an article
+of commerce; great quantities of it are sent
+to the coast, and exported to China, where, as
+is well known, it is very highly prized, being
+considered a panacea.</p>
+
+<p>The last five miles into Sandusky, or Portland,
+lie over a small prairie; but it is not a
+good specimen, as the herbage is short, and
+copses of stunted trees are frequent. Prairies
+are either dry or wet. The wet prairies are,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span>in fact, nothing but a marsh covered with long
+grass, and have been so from any indefinite
+period of time. Of the dry prairies some may
+have been originally wet, and some may have
+been cleared by the Indians, for the purpose of
+using them as hunting fields. But the former
+supposition, if the fact could be ascertained,
+would probably, in most cases, be found to be
+the true one.</p>
+
+<p>The shores of the lake at Sandusky are
+exceedingly flat. I was fortunate in finding a
+steam-boat there, which was going to Detroit,
+Green bay, and the Saut de St. Marie, at the
+entrance of Lake Superior, and would afterwards
+return to Buffalo. The “Superior,” as
+she was called, was, I think, the most comfortable
+steamer I had yet entered; her upper deck,
+about one hundred and twenty feet in length,
+was of great width, and afforded a most excellent
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span>promenade. We had on board upwards of
+sixty passengers, many of whom were ladies;
+and there was plenty of room for us all, with
+the advantage of an excellent table, and a small
+band. The lake afforded us a supply of most
+delicious fresh water. Soon after leaving Sandusky
+we passed in sight of Put-in-Bay, in the
+Bass Islands, forming one of the finest natural
+harbours to be found any where. Commodore
+Perry lay at anchor there on the night previous
+to the 10th of September, 1813, on which day
+he gained his victory over our fleet in the vicinity.
+Night soon closed in upon us. We
+passed Malden, or Amherstburg, as it is more
+usually called. The British squadron lay at
+anchor there previously to its engagement with
+Commodore Perry. A boat pushed off in the
+darkness, and asked to be taken in tow. “Who
+are you?” very properly asked the captain.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span>“We, British!” was the ludicrous answer of some
+French Canadians, and the steamer passed on.
+A company of the 79th was stationed at Malden.
+In the morning we found ourselves at Detroit:
+this place was a considerable French settlement
+so long ago as the year 1759, when it fell with
+the Canadas into the possession of the British,
+and is now increasing with a rapidity to which
+it is fairly entitled by its situation, on the outlet
+of the great lakes. The French unquestionably
+displayed their usual tact and foresight in their
+choice of the different points of communication
+in the extensive chain of forts which was originally
+continued from the Canadas to the Mississippi—the
+proof is, that all of them are of
+great importance at the present time. A similar
+but more enlarged instance of this, the highest
+grade of military strategy, is to be found in
+the vigorous and persevering policy of Great
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span>Britain, which has secured to her a chain of
+fortresses by which, as a gallant American
+General-officer expressed himself to me, “She
+has check-mated the world.” The master mind
+of General Bernard, the elève and aid-de-camp
+of Napoleon, and perhaps the first engineer
+now living, whom I had the honour of meeting
+at Washington, has displayed itself in the
+very extensive and accurate military surveys,
+which he has taken in almost every part of the
+United States. The fortifications which he has
+constructed, have rendered the estuaries of the
+United States altogether inaccessible to an
+invading fleet. General Bernard, as is well
+known, has lately quitted the service of the
+United States, and returned to France.</p>
+
+<p>The wharfs and buildings at Detroit extend
+along the river side for about a mile, and exhibit
+much of the bustle of a commercial town.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span>The streets are spacious and regular,—the
+largest is more than half a mile in length, and
+contains some excellent shops and a capital
+hotel. That part of the bank upon which the
+city is built, is slightly elevated above the rest
+of the country, and commands a view which,
+although generally flat, is far from being uninteresting.
+The farms are laid out in narrow
+slips of land, which run parallel to each other,
+and at right angles to the river, reaching to
+the edge of the forest, distant about two miles
+from the city. By this means the first settlers
+were enabled to build their habitations within
+a short distance of each other; they had a
+smaller space of road to keep in repair, and
+afforded each other a mutual support against
+the sudden attacks of the Indians. At Detroit,
+the American General Hull surrendered to
+General Brock during the last war, but the city
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span>was subsequently retaken, previously to the
+battle of the Thames.</p>
+
+<p>We entered the lake of St. Clair,—about
+thirty miles in length, and twenty five in
+breadth; we passed a considerable distance
+from its banks, but they appeared to be very
+flat and uninteresting. On the right is the
+mouth of the river Thames; made remarkable
+by the victory obtained over the British by a
+superior force under the American General
+Harrison. The celebrated Indian chief, Tecumseh,
+fell in the engagement; and the importance
+of this victory to the Americans was
+felt by the dissolution of the hostile Indian
+confederacy consequent on the death of their
+leader.</p>
+
+<p>On the left of the entrance to the river St.
+Clair, is a large wet prairie: on the right are
+several islands, forming to all appearance but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span>one extensive morass, and abounding in wild
+fowl. As the channel became narrower, we
+perceived that the American banks were far
+more settled than those on the Canada side;
+but they soon alike presented nothing but a
+dense mass of forest trees, at a slight elevation
+above the water.</p>
+
+<p>After moving on for about thirty miles, we
+arrived at Fort Gratiot at the head of the river;
+it contained a small garrison, just sufficiently
+strong to resist an attack from the Indians.
+The pay of an American private is eight dollars
+a month, with an allowance of one ration per
+diem; but his duties are far harder than those
+of the British soldier, which accounts for the
+frequency of desertion. A lieutenant in the
+army receives but sixty dollars a month, after
+deduction for subsistence, forage, fuel, quarters,
+and expenses for servants. The pay of a captain
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span>after the same deduction, amounts to about
+eighty dollars a month. The stipend of a naval
+captain amounts altogether to four thousand four
+hundred dollars a year; his cabin is furnished
+better, and the allowance for breakage is more
+liberal than that of an English officer of the
+same rank.</p>
+
+<p>I here saw an Indian dance: the performers,
+an old man and his sons, advanced towards us,
+on a forest path, looking like wood demons,
+jumping and racing with each other, and uttering
+a small shrill cry at intervals; they were
+nearly naked, bedaubed all over with clay, and
+began the dance with light clubs in their hands:
+sometimes they writhed on the ground like
+snakes, at others they shook their clubs at each
+other, and used the wildest and most extravagant
+gestures. The old Indian beat time on a
+small skin stretched across a piece of hollow
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span>tree. When stooping to the ground and looking
+upwards, his features and figure reminded
+me of the celebrated statue of the “Remouleur”
+at Florence.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of this part of America is inhabited
+by the Chippewas, by far the largest
+tribe of Indians on the shores of the great lakes.
+The waters of Lake Huron had been agitated
+by a furious north wind, and headed directly
+on the mouth of the river; the current was
+running with such velocity, that the steam boat
+did not effect her passage without a long and
+very severe struggle, and when at last fairly
+out on the lake, she made so little progress that
+she was obliged to put back. Some of the
+passengers amused themselves with fishing, and
+caught some black bass; as for myself, I proceeded
+with two Indians in a canoe to the
+morass opposite the fort, which abounded in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span>wild fowl of all kinds; I contrived to shoot several
+ducks, notwithstanding the unseasonable cries
+raised by the Indians in token of their delight,
+on seeing a bird fall. Their quickness of sight
+and hearing answered nearly all the purposes
+of a water spaniel, when I could not immediately
+find a wounded bird. At length we made
+another attempt, and entered the vast expanse
+of Lake Huron. The coast on the right
+stretched away to the north nearly at right
+angles; and we gradually lost sight of it. Our
+course was along the western shore, where the
+banks were, or seemed to be, a little higher;
+but still very low, appearing nowhere to exceed
+thirty feet in height. The unbroken and interminable
+forest, with which they are covered,
+contains more game than any other part bordering
+on the lakes, being less frequented by
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span>hunters. The American elk (the wapiti of the
+Egyptian Hall), the moose, and common deer
+are found there, with plenty of bears, wolves,
+and other wild inhabitants of the forest; the
+moose has the power of remaining under water
+for a very long time, and, when in danger, has
+been known to plunge into a pool, and remain
+at the bottom for more minutes than I care to
+mention here.</p>
+
+<p>We steered directly for the Saut de St.
+Marie, at the foot of Lake Superior, and distant
+two hundred and twenty miles. One mile of
+the coast on any of these lakes will give a very
+tolerable idea of the whole of them, with, of
+course, some exceptions. Yet although there
+was but little variety in this respect, the voyage
+was exceedingly interesting. The fineness of
+the weather, the cool breeze so refreshing after
+the sultry heat to which I had been exposed, the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span>comparative absence of musquitos, and the ever
+present recollection that we were sailing on the
+great lakes of North America, where, comparatively
+speaking, so few had been before me,
+gave a tone to the excursion that compensated
+for more commanding scenery. As we passed
+Saganaw bay, we were very nearly out of sight
+of land. The Mannito, or Spirit islands were
+the next objects that presented themselves to
+our view: these are supposed by the Indians
+to be inhabited by spirits, the word <i>mannito</i> in
+the Indian language, signifying spirit. We
+then passed Drummond Island, which during
+the last war contained a British fort and garrison,
+but has been since abandoned. Some ruins
+on the large island of St. Joseph were visible
+from the steam boat; they were the remains
+of a fort, which was suffered to fall to decay,
+previously to the fortifications being erected on
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span>Drummond’s Island. On the American bank,
+near the entrance of the river St. Marie, we
+observed a spot called the Sailor’s Encampment.
+The forest had been partially cleared away,
+and there was no vestige of humanity remaining.
+Some years ago, a sloop was wrecked
+there; the crew suffered incredible hardships,
+and many of them died from want, before the
+survivors contrived to make their escape. We
+entered a cluster of small islands at the mouth
+of the river, and I thought this the finest piece
+of lake scenery I had yet witnessed; as far as
+I could judge <i>en passant</i>, they appeared to be
+chiefly composed of gneiss, lying in large masses
+of rock, resembling those that are so common
+in some parts of Sweden. In comparing these
+with the islands of Killarney, and Loch-Lomond,
+I should remark, that the full rich foliage did
+not seem complete without the arbutus; and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>the dark tint of the fir trees, with which they
+were covered, was not relieved as in the Scottish
+lake, by the exquisitely delicate appearance of
+the weeping birch.</p>
+
+<p>It was a remarkably fine evening: as the
+steamer passed rapidly on, her paddles seemed
+to take infinite pleasure in defacing the astonished
+surface of the water, and splashed away
+through the liquid crystal with as little ceremony
+as if they had been propelling a mere ferry boat.
+Every thing besides was hushed and tranquil:
+the very passengers, who had all assembled near
+the forward part of the deck, were intensely
+gazing upon the scene around them; and
+watched in almost breathless silence, as the
+vessel rounded each bend in the deep, but comparatively
+narrow river, that developed in quick
+succession some new and more beautiful object
+at every turn. Suddenly we heard the screams
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span>of a party of Indians, who had descried us from
+their wigwams on one of the islands, and were
+paddling after us in a canoe with all their might.
+One of them was a chief, who displayed the
+flag of the United States. In the course of the
+afternoon, we had been amusing ourselves by
+shooting with rifles at a bottle attached to a
+line about forty yards in length; this had been
+left hanging from the stern, and the endeavours
+of the Indians to catch hold of the string afforded
+us no little amusement. Their faces were
+deeply stained with the red extract from the
+blood root (Sanguinaria Canadensis); they were
+in the best possible humour, and their wild discordant
+laugh, and the still wilder expression of
+their features, as they encouraged each other
+to exertion with quickly repeated and guttural
+exclamations, enabled us to form some idea of
+their animated appearance, when excited to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span>deeds of a more savage description. By dint
+of the greatest exertion, they contrived to seize
+the string; they held on for a moment by it;
+it snapped, and the canoe was instantly running
+astern at the rate of seven or eight knots. They
+again had recourse to their paddles, and used
+them with redoubled energy; we then slackened
+our pace for a minute or two, and threw them
+a rope, by which they soon pulled themselves
+under the stern. We conversed with them
+through the medium of an interpreter, and made
+them presents of bread and spirits. They
+seemed very thankful, threw us some pigeons
+which they had killed, and fired a <i>feu-de-joie</i>
+with their fowling-pieces at parting.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning we came in sight of
+the Saut, resembling the inclined plane of a
+large artificial dam. The scenery, though not
+grand, was decidedly curious and picturesque.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span>On the right are the Canadian settlements, and
+the original establishments of the north-west
+company: the left bank is lined by a succession
+of small neat-looking country houses and white
+cottages. Near the Saut stands the fort, large
+enough to contain three companies; but then
+garrisoned, I believe, with but eighty men.
+Every thing about it was in excellent order:
+before our drawing up to the landing-place,
+we were boarded by several Indians with moccasins
+(leathern sandals), belts, tobacco pouches,
+and bark work, for sale.</p>
+
+<p>The Saut de St. Marie most effectually
+prevents any vessel from ascending the river
+to Lake Superior, excepting such as are light
+enough to be towed up. As the steam-boat
+could not proceed farther, we embarked in
+canoes on a small canal, which has been cut
+from the fort to the river above the Saut, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span>paddled away for the entrance of the lake.
+Immediately after I had started, my canoe began
+to leak; she was instantly drawn on shore by
+the Indians close to a wigwam, and turned
+keel upwards. A light-coloured pitch, extracted
+from a species of pine, was boiled in
+about ten minutes. A piece of canvass was
+then besmeared with it, and laid over the leak
+on the outside. Another layer of pitch was
+followed by another piece of canvass, and then
+a third and last plaster of the pitch was spread
+over the whole. In a quarter of an hour she
+was again launched perfectly water tight. These
+canoes are of a light and most elegant construction.
+They are made of birch bark extended
+over a slight frame of cedar, and fastened
+or rather sewed to it, by the flexible roots of
+the young spruce tree. They are usually about
+fifteen feet in length, and can carry seven or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span>eight persons without danger. Some of them,
+however, are much larger.</p>
+
+<p>The land on each side of the river presented
+much the same appearance as that we
+had hitherto seen. Lake Superior may be fairly
+said to commence at the Point aux Pins, a
+flat sandy promontory, distant about six miles
+from the Saut. Beyond it, the surface of the
+water is suddenly enlarged to a width of three
+or four miles; and though the open expanse of
+the lake is not visible from the Point, yet
+the high and abrupt ridges of land that rise
+immediately at the entrance of the lake, and
+the clear expanse of cloudless sky that was
+extended beyond them, clearly informed us,
+that the mighty inland ocean was near at hand.
+Lake Superior is six hundred and seventy miles
+in length—of course a vast deal larger than
+the British Channel,—the water is as clear as
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span>crystal, and cool in the hottest weather. Being
+chiefly supplied by land springs, the quantity
+of water that falls over the Saut is much greater
+than that which is poured into the lake by its
+tributary rivers and streams, which are comparatively
+small and insignificant. The sailors
+in the steam-boat would occasionally peel a
+large potatoe, and throw it in advance of the
+boat, and by the time she arrived at the spot
+where it fell, the potatoe has sunk to the depth
+of thirty or forty feet, but from the clearness
+of the water, its shape and colour were perfectly
+distinct.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the different places we touched at
+on our voyage, the Saut had the strongest
+claims on our time and attention. We were
+much mortified at being obliged to leave it
+the same afternoon. The captain determining
+to return, contrary, I believe, to the wish of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span>every one on board. Only one or two canoes
+that had started earlier than the others, were
+able to proceed farther than the Point aux Pins.</p>
+
+<p>In our way back to the steamer, every canoe
+shot down the Saut. This is an exceedingly
+dangerous experiment, except when they are
+guided by people who have been long accustomed
+to the management of them. The Saut,
+which is the only outlet to the waters of Lake
+Superior, may be about one-third of a mile in
+width, and about half-a-mile in length; the
+fall in that space being about twenty-four feet.
+The canoes, with the paddles fore and aft, soon
+began to feel the effect of the current, and were
+immediately after carried forward with great
+velocity. In many places the waters were without
+foam, and perfectly transparent, and the
+large loose rocks at the bottom were distinctly
+seen; many of them rise nearly to the surface,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>but were avoided by the remarkable dexterity
+of the steersman, where the slightest want of
+skill must inevitably have overturned the canoe.
+The descent occupied between three or four
+minutes. The rapids on the left bank were
+evidently more furious, and are very seldom
+descended.</p>
+
+<p>The Saut de St. Marie was originally occupied
+by the French as a military and trading
+port. At the foot of the rapids there is, I was
+informed, some of the finest fly-fishing in the
+world: the trout are very fine, in enormous
+quantities, and rise very freely. But our inexorable
+captain cared for none of these things.
+White-fish (supposed by some to be of the
+salmo genus), are also exceedingly plentiful.
+Their flavour is remarkably fine and delicate.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning we approached the island
+of Michilimackinac, signifying in the Indian
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span>language, the Great Turtle; and so called from
+its outline bearing a supposed resemblance
+to that animal when lying upon the water,
+though I cannot say that I could discover so
+flattering a likeness. When within a short
+distance it appeared to be diamond-shaped,
+with an angle projecting towards us, and the
+sides regularly scarped by the hand of nature.
+Apparently about the centre of the island
+rises what in America is called a “bluff;” a
+word which is provoking from its absurdity,
+and constant recurrence in American descriptions
+of scenery. What is a bluff?—I asked,
+and so would any other Englishman: “A bluff,
+sir! don’t you know what a bluff is? A bluff,
+sir, is a piece of rising ground, partly rock, not
+all of it, with one side steep, but yet not very
+steep, the other side sloping away, yet not too
+suddenly; the whole of it, except the steep
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span>side, covered with wood; in short, sir, a bluff
+is a bluff!” The word, I think, may do
+well enough to express a small rough rocky
+hill, but sometimes it happens that a bluff is
+highly picturesque, and then to talk of a most
+beautiful bluff, is something like talking of
+“Beauty and the Beast.” As a substantive,
+and, in the sense in which it is used in
+America, the word is exclusively their own,
+and it really would not be fair to call it
+English. Nevertheless, there is, and shall be,
+“a bluff” in the midst of the island of Michilimackinac,
+rising to the height of more than
+three hundred feet above the waters of the
+lake, which have been ascertained to be about
+six hundred feet above the level of the Atlantic.
+On the left side of the island is the town,
+and above it appeared the fort. In the bay
+were several trading sloops, smaller craft, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span>Indian canoes; and the sun shone brilliantly on
+the whole of this enlivening scene, which we
+saw to the best advantage. The town may
+contain about eight hundred inhabitants, exclusively
+of the garrison. The Indians are sometimes
+to be seen in great numbers, even to
+the amount of one thousand or one thousand
+five hundred, who live in wigwams close to the
+water’s edge. A wigwam, or Indian village, is
+a collection of small tents constructed of matting
+and birch bark. The day before, we had
+met twenty-two canoes in the open lake, each
+containing seven or eight Indians, who were
+going from Mackinac to our settlement at Pen-y-tang-y-shen,
+on Lake Huron, to receive their
+annual presents from the British government.</p>
+
+<p>Mackinac is the rendezvous of the North-West
+American missionary establishment. It
+contained six missionaries; of whom four were
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span>Presbyterian, one a Catholic, and one of the
+Church of England, and a large establishment
+for the instruction of one hundred children, of
+whatever persuasion.</p>
+
+<p>A very curious and regularly shaped natural
+Gothic arch, on the top of a rock at the north-eastern
+side, elevated about two hundred feet
+above the level of the lake; a huge isolated
+calcareous rock; and a small cave called Skull
+Cave, are the natural curiosities of the island.</p>
+
+<p>The principal trade is the fur trade, which
+is carried on there to a great extent, chiefly
+through the medium of Canadian <i>voyageurs</i>.
+The fort, which is kept in admirable order,
+commands the whole town, but is itself commanded
+by another eminence in the woods behind
+it. During the late war a strong party of
+British and Indians pushed across from Drummond’s
+Island, with eleven pieces of cannon, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span>being favoured by the darkness of the night,
+contrived to gain this eminence, distant half-a-mile,
+without being perceived by the Americans
+in the fort, who had not received notice of the
+war having broken out. They beat the “reveillée”
+as usual in the morning, and were exceedingly
+astonished to hear it immediately answered
+by the British, who were above them. Resistance
+would have been useless, and the fort
+surrendered. The remains of the old British
+fortification are still to be seen upon the hill: it
+is called Fort Holmes, after Major Holmes, a
+gallant American officer, who was advancing to
+retake it, and met his fate at the head of the
+attacking column. Mackinac was given up to
+the Americans by the treaty of Ghent, in 1814.
+There was originally a French fort and settlement
+on the main land of the Michigan territory.
+The first British garrison who occupied
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span>it were murdered by the Indians, and the fort
+and settlement were afterwards removed by the
+British to the island.</p>
+
+<p>I amused myself with shooting pigeons,
+which are to be found on the island in great
+numbers. I was quite surprised at the extraordinary
+facility and quickness of eye, with which
+my guide, half Indian and half Canadian, discovered
+them sitting in the thickest foliage; his
+sight seemed to me to be far keener than that
+of an English sportsman when looking for a
+hare. The woods with which the island is covered,
+are principally composed of hazel and
+maple; I could have fancied myself in a Kentish
+preserve, but that wild raspberries were in great
+abundance in the open spaces.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I went to see the Indians
+spear fish by torch light. A lighted roll of
+birch bark, emitting a most vivid flame, was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span>held over the head of the boat, where the Indians
+were stationed with their spears. The
+water was excessively clear, and the fish were
+attracted by the light, and several of them were
+instantly pinned to the ground at the depth of
+four or five feet.</p>
+
+<p>About ten miles north-east of Mackinac are
+the St. Martin’s islands; one of them abounds
+in gypsum. At about the same distance from
+Mackinac and on the main land, I was informed
+that there was a remarkably fine trout stream
+that would amply repay the fly-fisher for his
+trouble in going there. There is no fly fishing
+at Mackinac, but very fine fish are to be
+taken with a bait: they have pike, bass, white-fish,
+and what are called salmon-trout, in
+great perfection. As to these last, I very
+much question whether they are of the salmo
+genus at all; as they never rise at a fly. They
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span>certainly are not what are called salmon-trout by
+English sportsmen, nor are they the large butt-trout
+of the English lakes. I saw a boat-load
+containing a dozen that had been caught in one
+night weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds
+each; they more resembled in every respect
+the fish called the salmon in the Lake Wenner
+in Sweden, and which I have seen taken of
+an enormous size below the falls of Trollhätta.
+The meat at this season (August) was white,
+but well flavoured. I was informed that it
+becomes of a reddish colour in October or
+November.</p>
+
+<p>Mackinac is an excellent market for Indian
+curiosities.</p>
+
+<p>Our next destination was Green bay, on
+Lake Michigan. On our way we passed several
+fine-looking islands,—all thickly covered
+with forests, and apparently uninhabited. A fort
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span>and a flourishing settlement are to be seen at
+Green bay; but there is nothing attractive about
+either, and the country is very flat and uninteresting,
+except to a sportsman. There are
+plenty of wild fowl to be found at Duck creek,
+about three miles off, and I proceeded there
+in hopes of shooting some, but did not fall in
+with them until it was too late to have much
+sport. However, I chanced to meet an old
+Indian who had been more successful, and I
+carried back to the steam-boat two silver ducks,
+which answered every purpose, as no questions
+were asked. My guide had been enumerating
+to me the different wild animals to be found
+in that part of the forest, and I chanced to ask
+him, if foxes were plentiful; his answer was
+amusing, “Yes, sir; there is considerable fox.”
+In the very darkest part of the forest, about
+two and a half miles from the mouth of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span>creek, was the residence of an Indian doctress
+and fortune-teller. I landed there out of curiosity
+to have my fortune told; but her manner,
+her language, and the substance of what she
+said, differed in no respect from that of a common
+English gipsy woman. She shuffled a
+dirty pack of cards, and told me of the fair
+lady and the dark lady, the false friend and
+the true friend, the treasure to be found and
+the journey to be taken, with the same chapter
+of accidents and unavoidable dangers. I purchased
+some of her medical herbs: the principal
+plant was sarsaparilla. I observed wild rice
+growing in great abundance on the margin of
+the stream.</p>
+
+<p>By passing up the river at Green bay, a
+traveller may proceed in canoes down the Wiskansaw
+river to the head of the Mississippi,
+having only to pass over one mile of terra firma;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span>so that with this single exception, the whole
+distance from Quebec to New Orleans may be
+travelled by water.</p>
+
+<p>We left Green bay, and returned to Mackinac,
+and passed the day much in the same
+manner as before. Our evening’s entertainment
+was rather of a novel description. A Catholic
+priest, whom we had previously left at Mackinac,
+and who was known to be an eloquent
+man, was going to preach in the chapel, and
+accordingly many of us went to hear him: he
+had come to the island for the sole purpose of
+holding a religious controversy with some of
+the Presbyterian clergy. The expected meeting
+did not however take place; and having
+been, or fancying himself to have been very
+much wronged, he entered into a long explanation
+of the whole affair. He read letters and
+papers, and commented upon them in his robes
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span>from the altar; he made a long tirade, in which
+sarcasm and ridicule were successively prominent,
+and wound up his speech more suited to
+the bar than the pulpit, by accusing his adversary
+of telling a “thumper.” Whether he was
+in the right or the wrong was little to the purpose:
+in common, I believe, with every one
+that heard him, I thought the whole proceeding
+was exceedingly disgraceful.</p>
+
+<p>We now steered again for Fort Gratiot,
+and passed to Detroit and Lake Erie. From
+Detroit to Buffalo it is three hundred and fifty
+miles. We touched at several posts; and in
+short, after a voyage of one thousand eight hundred
+and ten miles, performed in nineteen days,
+we arrived at Buffalo, and fired a salute of
+twenty-four guns, one for each state. The
+distances the steam-boat had passed over were
+as follows. From Buffalo to Detroit, three hundred
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span>and fifty miles; to Fort Gratiot, seventy-five;
+length of Lake Huron, two hundred and
+twenty; from the mouth of the river St. Marie
+to the Saut, and back to the Lake, one hundred
+miles; thence to Mackinac, forty miles; to
+Green bay, one hundred and eighty; back to
+Mackinac, one hundred and eighty more; thence
+to Fort Gratiot, two hundred and forty; to
+Detroit, seventy-five; to Buffalo, three hundred
+and fifty; total, one thousand eight hundred and
+ten miles. The voyage altogether had been very
+pleasant, and the weather so favourable that
+quadrilles were danced on deck almost every
+evening. On one night only, the surface of
+Lake Huron was agitated by something like a
+squall, and the rolling of the steam-boat was
+exceedingly disagreeable. I had nothing to
+complain of, but the conceit and untameable
+insolence of the stewards; which were remarked,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span>and I have no doubt will be remembered, by
+many of the warmest admirers of liberty and
+equality who were on board.</p>
+
+<p>Buffalo is a large, thriving and cheerful town,
+containing about fourteen thousand inhabitants.
+The principal street is spacious and handsome,
+and of great length.</p>
+
+<p>And now for Niagara, the diapason of fresh
+waters! An hour’s drive brought me to the
+village of Black Rock, where the <ins class="corr" id="TN-3" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: Nigara river">Niagara river</ins>
+is about half a mile in breadth, and runs from
+the lake with a very strong current. Opposite
+to Black Rock are the remains of Fort Erie,
+unsuccessfully besieged by the British in 1814.</p>
+
+<p>I proceeded along the side of the river. Its
+rapidity soon ceases, and it presents a surface
+as still and as calm as that of a lake. A turn
+of the road brought my voiture to a small inn,
+close to the field of battle of Chippewa, fought
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span>during the last war. At this spot, which by the
+road is about four miles distant, we were within
+hearing of the deep hollow roar of the cataract,
+and first saw the spray that arose from the
+gulph beneath. Both are sometimes perceptible
+at a far greater distance. The moon was
+just rising, and threw a faint, pale light over
+the river, which is here expanded to a breadth
+of several miles. There was scarcely a ripple
+to be seen; the whole sheet of water was tranquil
+and resigned: the stream appeared to cease
+flowing, while all nature, hushed and breathless,
+listened with it to the distant thunders of
+the cataract. This scene is continued for about
+a mile further, and thence the tale is soon told.
+The bed of the river begins to slope, and the
+agitation of the waters indicate the commencement
+of the rapids. The mighty stream rushes
+forward with ungovernable violence—its confusion
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span>and exasperation are increased every
+instant—it nears the brink of the precipice
+in a state of frenzy—and bounds over it to
+its destiny of mist and foam, in unexampled
+volume, and with terrific impetuosity.</p>
+
+<p>This stupendous fall has been frequently
+and well described; and I do but trespass on
+your patience in remarking, that it is divided
+into three parts by two islands—a larger and a
+smaller one. Including these, the bed of the
+river immediately above the fall is suddenly
+narrowed to about three quarters of a mile.
+The fall of the rapids above, commencing near
+the village of Chippawa, two miles from the
+brink of the cataract, is estimated at ninety
+feet. On the American side, the river is precipitated
+from a height of one hundred and
+sixty-four feet: on the Canadian bank, the fall
+is about ten feet less; but contains by far the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span>greater quantity of water, the precipice having
+been worn into the form of a vast crescent by
+the “green water,” (so called on account of
+its brilliantly transparent colour when the sun
+shines on it), which falls from the middle of
+the river in a solid mass, not less than five
+or six feet in thickness, and is driven forwards
+with an impetus that hurls it into the gulph
+below, at a distance of fifty feet from the base
+of the rock.</p>
+
+<p>The finest general view is, I think, to be
+obtained from the top of Mr. Forsyth’s hotel
+(where, be it added, having just entered the
+British dominions, we drank his Majesty’s health
+in a bumper, at the table d’hôte), because the
+whole surrounding country and the rapids, which
+of themselves are worth a long journey, are seen
+at the same time. The bottom of the fall it
+is true is not visible; but I believe the view
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span>will not be thought the less magnificent on
+that account, as it is very possible from that
+spot to imagine the height of the fall to be
+even greater than it really is. I may also be
+allowed to remark, that I think the immediately
+surrounding scenery is sufficiently in keeping
+with the grandeur of the cataract, although I
+am aware that many are of a different opinion.
+The country is on the same level both above
+and below the fall, as the river precipitates
+itself into a channel which it has formed in the
+solid, but soft fetid limestone, and which, as
+is usually contended, has been hollowed out by
+the receding cataract, all the way from Lewistown,
+distant seven miles.</p>
+
+<p>This fact has been sometimes doubted, but
+it would appear, without much reason. It has
+been ascertained that an irregular ledge of rock
+is extended between the lakes Erie and Ontario,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span>at a varying distance from either of them; sometimes
+piercing through the soil that covers it,
+and in many places jutting out with salient
+and re-entering angles, like an immense fortification;
+and it has been supposed that the Niagara
+river has found its way into one of the ravines
+formed between them, which has thus become
+the bed of the river, towards lake Ontario.
+This theory, however, is very much weakened,
+if not entirely overthrown, by the observations
+of our countryman, Lieutenant Owen, who,
+when employed on the government surveys in
+the years 1815, 16, 17 and 18, contrived to
+force his boat nearer to the foot of the falls
+than any person had ever done, and ascertained
+by repeated soundings, that the nearly constant
+depth of the river from Lewistown to the
+falls, was about two hundred feet, excepting
+in limited spaces, where it did not exceed forty-five
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span>feet. These spaces or points he conceived
+to be composed of granite “in situ,” or of
+some other rock, which being harder than the
+soft lime-stone of which the bed of the river is
+generally composed, had offered a proportionably
+greater resistance to the regular action of
+the falling element.</p>
+
+<p>Having first stripped off my clothes, and
+enveloped myself in an oilskin dress, I followed
+a guide, who conducted me under the fall. This
+is a service of some danger, as a single false
+step in some places might prove fatal. As we
+crept along the side of the rock we encountered
+a most furious gust of wind, that increased in
+violence till we were fairly behind the sheet of
+water, and arrived at what is called the Termination
+Rock. Here we remained for a few
+minutes, gasping for breath, stunned with the
+noise, and drenched with a shower of spray. If
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span>I wished to speak I was obliged to put my
+mouth close to the ear of the guide, and to
+raise my voice to the utmost; and it was with
+the greatest difficulty that I could look upwards
+for a moment, and glance at the tumbling
+element, as it rushed over the edge of the
+rock that towered high above our heads, and
+then fell into the abyss within arm’s length of
+us, with the rapidity of lightning.</p>
+
+<p>About half-a-mile below the fall, the river
+is crossed in a ferry-boat. On the American
+side a wooden bridge of admirable construction
+conducts the visiter to Goat Island, the larger
+of the two which divides the fall. A walk of a
+few minutes will lead him to another bridge,
+thrown from rock to rock, till it actually overhangs
+the edge of the principal part of the cataract.
+I am fully persuaded, that when any
+one who has seen the fall from this spot asserts
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span>that he is disappointed, it is but a proof of
+insufferable affectation, or what Johnson would
+call “stark insensibility.” It is possible, that
+some flat-souled Dutchman, who would think of
+nothing but how he might turn the course of
+the river by a dam; or some passionless manufacturing
+Yankee, who would “guess it to
+be a pity that such an all-mighty water power
+should remain unemployed,” might regard the
+scene, when viewed from any other point, and
+remain unmoved by its grandeur; but it is next
+to impossible to look upon it from this bridge,
+and not be affected with something like awe
+and astonishment. Let the atheist—and, if he
+will, with wine and warmth in his bosom—repair
+to this spot, as is usual, by moonlight, when
+one-half of the cataract is in shade, and the
+other glistening with more than snowy whiteness,—he
+may there gaze in security, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span>enjoy the <i>sublime without terror</i>; but should one
+thought of annihilation trouble him—should
+he covet the pinion of the bald eagle as he
+fearlessly glides over the abyss, or envy the
+finned tribe that can live and revel in the boiling
+gulf beneath—let him reflect, that his
+reason is with him, the undoubted substitute
+for these physical advantages; his reason, alike
+the promoter of his happiness and the medium
+of his misery. Then, turning to a more tranquil
+scene, let him gaze on the silvery spirit-like
+beauties of the lunar rainbow; let him
+observe the worlds upon worlds that throng the
+heavens above him, declaring the existence of
+their Creator as they roll onward in eternal
+obedience to his will, but in silent amazement
+at his meaning; and let him ask why his reason
+should be, as it were, so tantalized by his senses.
+Had no lesson been intended, the firmament
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span>might as well have been placed far beyond the
+reach of mortal sight, and perhaps the little he
+can see and know of it may teach him to
+believe in, and hope for, another and happier
+home, by proving to him, at once, how much
+must be withheld from him, and how much must
+remain to be enjoyed.</p>
+
+<p>I am not aware whether the experiment has
+ever been tried, but I should conceive that the
+effect of a Bengal light sent up from this bridge,
+on a dark stormy winter’s night, would be exceedingly
+fine.</p>
+
+<p>At about two miles below the fall, the
+river again becomes a torrent. I proceeded
+along the edge of the chasm through which it
+rages, in order to visit “the Whirlpool,” whose
+deep and gloomy appearance well repaid me
+for a very hot walk.</p>
+
+<p>I procured a hack, and rode to the abyss in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span>the side of the river, known by the appellation
+of the “Devil’s Hole.” I followed a party
+who had descended the ladders before me; we
+all, as I learned afterwards, took a wrong path
+to the right, which soon conducted us to the
+edge of a small but impassable precipice, and
+under the impression that we had seen all that
+was worth seeing, we re-ascended the ladders
+and returned to Niagara, after having enjoyed a
+very fine view of the river from the bold flattened
+rock, that is projected on the left hand.</p>
+
+<p>The road by which I passed down the Canadian
+side of the river, for the purpose of joining
+the steam-boat on Lake Ontario, at but a
+very short distance from Niagara, lies over the
+field of the murderous and severely contested
+battle of Bridgewater, or Lundy’s Lane, which
+was fought on the night of the 25th of July,
+1814, and terminated without much advantage
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span>to either party. A few miles further on, to the
+left, is a heavy-looking pillar, erected to the
+memory of General Brock, who was killed early
+in the battle of Queenston, October 13, 1812,
+in which the Americans were forced to repass
+the river with great loss, whilst several thousands
+of their militia were idly looking on from the
+other bank.</p>
+
+<p>Near the mouth of the river, on the Canadian
+side, is Fort George; on the American bank
+stands Fort Niagara, in which the notorious
+William Morgan, who wrote a book, in which,
+as I have before remarked, he revealed the
+secrets of freemasonry, was confined under false
+pretences, previously to his being murdered by
+some fanatic masons, and afterwards, as it is supposed,
+pitched into the lake, or the Niagara river.</p>
+
+<p>I am afraid I shall be excommunicated by
+my American readers, as I visited neither the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span>Erie nor the Welland Canals; not even the
+Locks at Lockport, or the Deep Cut, or the
+Mountain Ridge. The Welland canal, however,
+is unquestionably a great national work,
+and reflects much credit upon the spirited individuals
+by whom it was undertaken; by its
+means, the obstacles presented to navigation by
+the falls of the Niagara, have been effectually
+overcome, and a communication opened between
+the lakes Erie and Ontario.</p>
+
+<p>Ontario is one of the deepest of the lakes;
+its mean depth being about six hundred feet. It
+has been ascertained that the bottom of lake
+Erie, which is two hundred and seventy miles in
+length, is six feet higher than the surface of lake
+Ontario. The distance between the two lakes
+is thirty-five miles, in which space the river
+Niagara is supposed to fall about three hundred
+feet, which is therefore the depth of lake Erie.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span></p>
+
+<p>I embarked in a splendid steam-boat, “the
+Great Britain,” proceeding to Kingston, at the
+other end of the lake. I could not but remark,
+that although a finer vessel, her table was
+by no means so well supplied as that of the
+American boat in which I had made my excursion
+to the great lakes.</p>
+
+<p>During the short time we remained at Kingston
+we were entertained by the band of the
+66th, which gave us the national airs of England
+and America in the finest style: the principal
+British naval establishment and dockyard on the
+lakes, is at Kingston. I observed two first-raters
+and a large frigate on the stocks. The St. Lawrence,
+of one hundred and twenty guns, which
+made one cruise at the end of the last war, was
+rotten, and half sunk in the water. There were
+several smaller vessels in ordinary, but those on
+the stocks are not to be proceeded with, according
+to the stipulations of the treaty of Ghent.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span></p>
+
+<p>Immediately afterwards, we entered the
+thousand “islands,” extending for sixty miles
+up the river St. Lawrence. There are in fact,
+twelve hundred of them, and although certainly
+very picturesque, are without variety, and much
+resemble those on the lakes, being flat and
+thickly covered with trees. Their number is
+not of course perceived, as they lie so closely
+together along the side of the channel that they
+appear more like points or promontories from
+the main shore.</p>
+
+<p>I quitted the steamer at Cornwall, and entered
+a large boat with a number of ladies and
+gentlemen who, like myself, wished to descend
+the rapids. In our way to Montreal we were
+obliged to change our mode of travelling by land
+and water, no less than four times in one day.
+The river above Montreal is full of rapids.
+The most formidable of these are called the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span>Long Saut and the rapids of the Cedars. We
+passed down two or three of minor consideration,
+and then commenced the descent of the “Long
+Saut.” Our boat was carried along at a great
+rate for several miles, and soon approached the
+only part that can be considered dangerous,
+where the river was running with appalling
+violence. The waves as soon as they are formed,
+do not subside and then swell up again at regular
+distances, but dart furiously onward, racing and
+crowding upon each other in a most extraordinary
+confusion of spray and foam, that rises
+to a height of four or five feet, and splashes
+over the sides of the boat, to the great discomfiture
+of the ladies’ dresses, and the very serious
+looks of the gentlemen. The boatmen directed
+our attention to the rapids of the “Lost Channel”
+on our left, from which we were divided
+by an island. They are far more dangerous
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span>than those we were passing, and at a distance
+of half-a-mile, we could see that the river was
+most terribly agitated. The “Lost Channel”
+receives its name from the number of persons
+that have perished there. In the old French
+war, three hundred British troops were lost
+in the torrent; the first boat took the wrong
+channel, the others followed, and all went to
+pieces. The floating bodies first intimated to
+a French garrison on the river below, the surprise
+that had been intended for them. The
+boatmen are of course usually experienced persons,
+and if sober there is no danger; but it
+is not always that they are so. At one place
+our tipsy pilots allowed the boat to swing
+across the stream: fortunately the worst of the
+rapids were passed, or an accident might have
+occurred. Both the Long Saut and those of
+the Cedars which we saw from the road, are
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span>certainly more boisterous than those at the
+Saut de St. Marie, on account of the greater
+body of water in the St. Lawrence, but the
+descent at the latter is more rapid as the fall is
+far more precipitate in proportion to its length.</p>
+
+<p>I entered a steam-boat on the banks of the
+Ottawa, which although a noble-looking stream
+in other respects, is dark and dirty in comparison
+with the St. Lawrence. The latter river
+seems not to relish the alliance. A sudden
+change is perceivable in the colour of the water,
+the line of junction being distinctly observable;
+and for scores of miles down the St. Lawrence,
+its clearer waters confine themselves to the
+eastern bank, while those on the western are
+discoloured by the “Ottawa tide.” I afterwards
+ascended the Ottawa. We arrived at La Chine,
+and proceeded by land to Montreal. The
+mountain behind it was already in sight, but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span>the city itself by this road, remained hidden
+till we were within a very few miles of it. I
+passed through it the same evening, intending
+to see it on my return. The Hercules, a very
+fine steam-boat, carried me to Quebec in about
+twenty hours; touching at “the Three Rivers,”
+eighty-four miles from Quebec, and ninety-six
+from Montreal. Six miles from Quebec, we
+passed the mouth of the Chaudiere river, celebrated
+for its falls, which are situated about
+three or four miles from the spot where it
+empties itself into the St. Lawrence, whose
+banks, every where interesting, become still
+more so on approaching Quebec, being thickly
+lined with Canadian villages. Every cottage
+is white; the churches are of the same colour,
+with their spires covered with tin, and are frequently
+to be seen at a great distance out-topping
+the neighbouring forest and glistening
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span>in the sunbeam. In some places the river is
+two miles in width; but at Quebec it is narrowed
+to about a mile, which adds to the
+beauty of the view by making the lofty banks
+appear higher than they really are. On the
+left are seen the fortifications on Cape Diamond,
+the most elevated spot in the vicinity of the
+city. On the right is Point Levi. At different
+distances down the river are Cape Tourment
+and the Beaufort mountains, and the Isle of
+Orleans, dividing the river into two channels—that
+on the left being dangerous for any but
+very small vessels. The city itself was not
+visible till the boat was standing in for the
+landing-place. Numerous merchant ships were
+lying at anchor in different parts of the river;
+whilst rafts, ferry-boats, and smaller craft, were
+moving in all directions. The Government-House,
+or Castle of St. Louis, was the most
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span>prominent object: below it on the right, is the
+old parliament house. The space which intervenes
+between these buildings and the water,
+is occupied by the lower town, which like all
+lower towns, is far more dirty and lively than
+the upper ones, where some of the streets are
+dull and even gloomy. The only two large
+steeples in Quebec, are those of the Protestant
+and Catholic churches. The upper town is
+surrounded by a strong rampart, and cannon
+are planted in every place where they could be
+used with advantage in case of a siege. The
+whole city is commanded by the fortress on
+Cape Diamond, which it is supposed, when
+finished, will be impregnable. The interior
+works occupy a space of about six acres, and
+are advanced to the edge of the precipice, where
+it is about three hundred and fifty feet in height.
+In 1775, the American General Montgomery
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span>and his two aides-de-camp were killed by the
+same cannon-shot at the water’s edge beneath
+the fort.</p>
+
+<p>I think I shall never forget the appearance
+of the view from the ramparts. It is very
+beautiful and inexpressibly enlivening. In looking
+down the river, the isle d’Orleans is on
+the right; in the extreme distance is Cape
+Tourment; while on the left is a gently sloping
+bank, exhibiting all the varied hues of extensive
+cultivation, between thirty and forty miles in
+length, and from two to five and six miles in
+width, and reaching from the margin of the
+water to the foot of the Beaufort mountains.
+The most conspicuous villages are Indian Lorette,
+Charleburg, Beaufort, and the Chateau
+Richer, easily distinguished by their light
+steeples covered with tin. Beside these, many
+hundreds of white cottages are scattered over
+the plain; and the road to Montmorenci is
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span>entirely lined with them. I was reminded by
+the prospect, of the highly cultivated garden
+that environs a city on the eastern coast of
+Spain. Olive trees and vineyards, it is true,
+there were none; but olive trees and vineyards
+are not missed at a great distance, and the
+Charleburg country is backed by the fine range
+of the Beaufort mountains, which although not
+of the highest elevation, can yet boast of a
+very picturesque outline; and being thickly
+covered with a noble forest, have at least one
+advantage over the barren rocks that usually
+rear their heads in the vicinity of a Spanish
+“vega.”</p>
+
+<p>On the south side of the city, at a distance
+of two miles, are the plains of Abraham, and at
+their further extremity, is Wolfe’s cave. The
+view from the bank above is scarcely less enchanting
+than that I had so lately turned from.
+On the western horizon are seen the mountains
+which by the late decision of the king of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span>Netherlands are to form the boundary line
+between the Canadas and the United States.
+The intermediate landscape is most delightful;
+large yellow patches of cultivation rescued from
+the apparently endless forest, are espied in different
+directions, each surrounding some thriving
+village in the interior, whilst the opposite banks
+of the river are fringed with Canadian cottages,
+as white as lime and brush can make them; and
+the intervening and majestic waters of the St.
+Lawrence having at length escaped from the
+turbulence of the rapids, are seen flowing beneath,
+as calmly and as silently, as when, during
+the darkness of a night more than seventy years
+ago, the gallant Wolfe was floated on the retiring
+tide to his victory and his grave.</p>
+
+<p>Till within a year or two, the stone close to
+which he breathed his last, was remaining on
+the field; but the proprietor, a person of infinite
+taste, has had it removed, part of it having been
+used for the purposes of the builder, while other
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span>parts of it are constantly undergoing a process
+of subdivision for the benefit of the curious.</p>
+
+<p>A plain, but very elegant stone obelisk, worth
+a dozen such as Washington’s monument at
+Baltimore, or General Brock’s at Queen’s Town
+Heights, had been lately erected to the memory
+of Wolfe and Montcalm. The idea of paying
+this late tribute to the memory of those illustrious
+soldiers, originated with Lord Dalhousie.
+A singularly chaste classical inscription from the
+pen of Dr. Fisher, the editor of the Quebec
+Gazette, will be engraved in front of the monument.
+It is as follows:</p>
+
+<p class="center">
+  WOLFE——MONTCALM.
+</p>
+<hr class="r5">
+<p class="center">
+  <span class="smcap">Mortem. Virtus. Communem.</span><br>
+  <span class="smcap">Famam. Historia.</span><br>
+  <span class="smcap">Monumentum Posteritas.</span><br>
+  <br>
+  <span class="smcap">Dedit.</span><br>
+  A. S. 1827.
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span></p>
+
+<p>A longer inscription will be placed on the
+other side of the monument. An aged nun is
+now living in the Ursuline convent at Quebec,
+who remembers having held a taper when the
+remains of the chivalrous Frenchman were lowered
+to his grave in the chapel vault. I saw a
+small oval slab of marble, which was shortly to
+be fixed in the wall near the spot where he is
+buried. It bore the following inscription:—“Honheur
+á Montcalm: ledest in en lui derobant
+la victoire, l’a recompensé par une mort
+glorieuse.”</p>
+
+<p>Quebec was taken from the French in the
+reign of Charles I., 130 years before the death
+of Wolfe, but being thought of little value, was
+given up in the same reign to Louis XIII., by
+the treaty of St. Germain.</p>
+
+<p>At Lorette are to be purchased the best
+Indian moccassins, and other leathern curiosities,
+at the house of Mere Paul. The three Huron
+chiefs who visited England in 1825, and who
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span>were introduced in the first circles in London,
+may now be seen, any hot day, sober or intoxicated,
+just as it may happen, sitting perhaps
+in the dust, before the doors of their cottages.
+They take great pleasure in showing the medals
+and portraits they received in England, and the
+queen, or wife of the principal chief—a short,
+dumpy, masculine woman—occasionally comes
+to Quebec to sell moccassins, and has no aboriginal
+antipathy to a glass of gin. She constantly
+wears in her bosom (and very close to
+it too) a silver medal, presented to her husband
+by the Lord Mayor. There is some good
+woodcock shooting at Lorette, and a very
+pretty waterfall,—the foam spreading itself over
+the rocks, so as to resemble the finest lacework.</p>
+
+<p>On looking up the course of the St. Lawrence,
+from this very interesting village, a wide
+opening is discerned in the distant bank, once
+apparently the channel of the river, which at
+some time as is supposed, by a junction with the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span>mouth of the river St. Charles, made an island
+of the promontory on which Quebec now stands.</p>
+
+<p>The Canadian cottages are in general extremely
+neat, the windows, in particular, being
+remarkably clean; and occasionally a tall pole
+or flag staff, is placed in front of one of them, to
+indicate the residence of an officer of militia.</p>
+
+<p>Of the falls of Montmorenci, I will only remark,
+that they are well worth the ride, or the
+walk, or the sail to them. The splendid view of
+Quebec, the river, and the surrounding country,
+that is enjoyed from the ground above them is a
+sufficient recompence; and no stranger should
+leave Quebec without paying them a visit. The
+same may be said of the falls of the Chaudière.
+They are in fact much finer than those of Montmorenci,
+and within riding distance.</p>
+
+<p>At Chateau Richer there is one of the best
+snipe grounds in the Canadas. In October they
+may be shot in extraordinary numbers, but
+should the sportsman be disappointed in finding
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">[152]</span>his game, he may proceed to the falls of St.
+Anne, distant twelve miles. I mention this,
+supposing him to be a regular water-fall man.
+I had ceased to be so since I had seen Niagara.
+The different accounts I heard of Lake Charles
+prevented me from going there. Some told me
+it was full of cat-fish, and large frogs, which eat
+the little ones; others called it a beautiful lake,
+and that good trout-fishing was to be had there.
+I certainly eat some small ones, which had been
+caught there, of a most delicious flavour.</p>
+
+<figure class="figcenter illowp100" id="i159" style="max-width: 93.75em;">
+  <img class="w100" src="images/i159.jpg" alt="">
+  <figcaption style="margin: 0 2em">
+    <p class="noindent">
+      <span>G. T. Vigne, delṭ</span>
+      <span style="float: right">T. S. Engleheart, sculpṭ</span>
+    </p>
+    <p class="center fs150">
+      JACQUES CARTIER, WITH SALMON FISHING.
+    </p>
+    <p class="center">
+      <i>Published by Whittaker &amp; C<sup>o</sup>. April 10. 1832.</i>
+    </p>
+  </figcaption>
+</figure>
+
+<p>The attractions of Jâques Cartier, twenty-seven
+miles from Quebec, were not to be so
+trifled with. This is the finest place for salmon
+fishing in the Canadas, and a very pretty
+spot into the bargain. All is as it should be;
+there is a small, but clean and comfortable
+country inn: the landlord throws a fly beautifully;
+his sister, a very pretty Canadian girl,
+waits at table; and the mother broils the salmon
+<i>à merveille</i>. The river, at all times a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span>torrent, and now very much swollen by two
+whole days’ rain, was rushing with the greatest
+fury through the narrow channel it has
+worn for itself through the solid rock. The
+bridge, which is close to the inn, is a very
+neat government work. Under it is a hole,
+forty or fifty feet in depth; and when the
+river is low and clear, salmon may be seen
+lying there in great numbers. But the season
+was too far advanced, the weather too
+cold, and the river too high; and my friend
+and I, seeing that we could not expect sport,
+returned, having killed but one salmon a-piece
+in the course of the afternoon. A fine open
+ledge of rocks extends along the side of the
+river, affording some excellent fishing stations.
+The place is named after Jâques Cartier,
+who first sailed up the St. Lawrence in
+1535, and founded the city of Montreal. He
+is said to have wintered there, at the mouth of
+the river which bears his name. On his return
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span>to France, he was of course coolly received,
+as he brought no precious metals. He
+sailed a second time, with orders to establish
+a colony on the St. Lawrence, but having had
+the misfortune to quarrel with the Indians, he
+returned to his native country to die of a
+broken heart.</p>
+
+<p>The Canadian peasantry are of the middle
+size, or under it. Although they breathe some
+of the purest air in America, their countenances
+are worn, and unhealthy in appearance. They
+may be said to be smoke-dried, being seldom
+without a pipe in their mouths, and in winter
+they shut themselves up in their cottages, and
+breathe an atmosphere of tobacco fumes. I am
+not of course speaking of the athletic progeny
+of British settlers, when I affirm that a tall,
+fine hale-looking man is rarely to be met with.
+Nevertheless, the French Canadians are a
+brave, hardy, independent race, and happier,
+I should imagine, than any peasantry in the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span>world. They pay no taxes, or just sufficient
+to keep the roads in repair. Most of them
+have small farms, and find a ready market for
+the produce; and those who have no land of
+their own, can easily find employment with
+those that have. They never give away
+money, but are exceedingly hospitable in other
+respects; and the poor Irish emigrant, who is
+travelling barefoot and pennyless to the place
+of his destination, is sure of a meal at any
+cottage where they have one to give. There
+still remains much of the French <i>naiveté</i> in their
+character, and at a few miles from Quebec,
+they know and care as little about the proceedings
+of government, as the Irish peasant
+did, and does now, about Catholic emancipation.
+Without meaning to detract from the
+merit of their charity, it may be remarked,
+that there is something like a spirit of conciliation,
+if not of apprehension, mixed up with
+it, for they are afraid that the “<i>Bas de soie</i>,”
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span>as they call the stockingless Irish, will finally
+drive them and their descendants from house
+and home.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>The population of Upper Canada, which I
+did not visit (my time being occupied in the
+unexpected voyage on the Great Lakes), is
+about 250,000. That of Lower Canada may
+be estimated at 500,000; but the amount in
+both provinces is rapidly increasing. Sixty
+thousand emigrants had landed at Quebec in
+1831, before the river was frozen up, being
+more than double the number that arrived in
+1830. Many of them brought out considerable
+sums of money. One morning, during my
+stay at Quebec, an old Scotchman, who had
+lived about fourteen years in the Canadas, returned
+from Scotland with ninety of his countrymen,
+whom he had persuaded to follow him:
+he himself bringing with him several thousand
+pounds, and the others possessing one, two,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>or three hundred pounds a-piece. Two thousand
+of the emigrants that arrived in Upper
+Canada, were small farmers from the North
+of England.</p>
+
+<p>The soil of Upper Canada is as productive as
+any in the world, so that the emigrant has no
+occasion to pass into the United States, in order
+to obtain a better, unless he proceed to particular
+spots where he would be liable to catch a
+fever and ague, and where the excessive heats
+together with the moisture and richness of the
+soil, render it so hastily prolific, that it is often a
+matter of great uncertainty whether a crop will
+arrive at perfection. The strong natural prejudice
+in favour of the British flag; the fact that
+the British manufactures can be purchased after
+payment of a very trifling duty of two per cent.,
+whereas they must have paid an average duty of
+30 per cent., if coming <i>viâ</i> the United States:
+that lands of equal fertility, and possessing equal
+advantages of situation, are sold at one half the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span>price that is paid in the United States: that the
+climate of the Canadas is most decidedly the
+healthier of the two; are additional and substantial
+inducements to a permanent residence
+in the British colonies. Good land in the best
+situations is sold by the Canada land company at
+from 10s. to 15s. the acre: their sales for the year
+1831, having amounted to 100,000 acres at an
+average price of 10s. per acre. One-seventh of
+the lands in every township in the United States
+is reserved for the payment of the clergy; and
+the agent for the clergy reserves, is authorized
+to sell 100,000 acres a year at 15s. an acre.</p>
+
+<p>The nature of uncleared land is known by the
+timber which grows upon it. Where a great
+variety of timber abounds, the soil is generally a
+black loam. A clayey soil is known by the
+great proportion of firs intermixed with other
+trees, but when they grow alone, it is found that
+sand usually predominates. This is also the
+case where there are none but oaks and chestnut
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span>trees. Potatoes and turnips succeed better than
+any other crop on newly cleared land.</p>
+
+<p>Both in the United States, and the Canadas,
+great quantities of sugar are made from the
+maple tree. The molasses are an excellent
+substitute for sweatmeats. In the month of
+March, a notch is cut in the tree, and a small
+pipe of wood is fastened into it, through which
+the sap runs into a wooden trough that is placed
+to receive it, and in this manner from five to
+seven pounds’ weight of sugar may be obtained
+annually from one tree. The process of boiling
+and preparing the sugar takes place in the forest.</p>
+
+<p>The agents of the Canada Land Company, on
+the arrival of emigrants at Quebec or Montreal,
+for the season of 1832, undertake to convey them
+free of expense to York or the head of Lake
+Ontario, in the vicinity of the choicest lands,
+provided the emigrants pay a first instalment in
+London, Quebec, or Montreal, or two shillings
+an acre upon not less than one hundred acres:
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span>and the Company’s agents in all parts of the
+Upper Province, will give such emigrants every
+information and assistance in their power.
+Should emigrants on their arrival at York not
+settle on the Company’s lands, the money paid
+by them will be returned, deducting the actual
+expense of conveyance. At York there are large
+buildings expressly appropriated to the reception
+of emigrant families previously to their finding
+employment; and both the government and the
+Canada Land Company have waggons drawn up
+on the wharfs, in order to convey them and their
+baggage from the place of landing.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot add any thing new to the particulars
+given in the printed papers relating to emigration,
+which are issued both by government and
+the Canada Land Company; to say nothing of
+the “Wiltshire Letters,” or the “Hints to Emigrants,”
+published at Quebec. These may all be
+purchased for a few pence, and the information
+they contain is, of course, derived from the best
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span>sources. Their instructions and advice on the
+subject of imposition, which might be practised
+upon emigrants at their first arrival, will be
+found most useful.</p>
+
+<p>Wheat at the Canadas, according to the distance
+from the place of export, varies from 3<i>s.</i> to
+5<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> the bushel; beef (winter) 2½<i>d.</i> the pound,
+(summer) 3½<i>d.</i> to 4<i>d.</i>; mutton in the winter is
+2½<i>d.</i> the pound, in summer it is a little dearer;
+potatoes are from 1<i>s.</i> to 2<i>s.</i> the bushel; a goose
+or a turkey may be purchased for 2<i>s.</i> or 2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>,
+and a couple of fowls for 1<i>s.</i> or 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> Ship-carpenters
+can earn from 5<i>s.</i> to 7<i>s.</i> a-day; labourers
+2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> to 4<i>s.</i> a-day; handicraft tradesmen
+from 5<i>s.</i> to 7<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> a-day; house-servants
+receive from 26<i>s.</i> to 36<i>s.</i> a-month, with food;
+females from 15<i>s.</i> to 30<i>s.</i> a-month, with food.
+In Quebec and Montreal, excellent board and
+lodging may be obtained in the principal hotels
+and boarding-houses at 20<i>s.</i> to 30<i>s.</i> a-week. A
+labourer or mechanic would pay 7<i>s.</i> to 9<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">[162]</span>a-week, for which he will get tea or coffee, with
+meat for breakfast, a good dinner, and supper
+at night. An excellent private dwelling-house
+may be rented at from 100<i>l.</i> to 150<i>l.</i> a-year unfurnished;
+shops according to their situation at
+from 30<i>l.</i> to 100<i>l.</i> A farm of 100 acres with 20
+or 30 acres clear, with a dwelling house, may be
+purchased in the Canadas for 150<i>l.</i> to 300<i>l.</i>
+according to the situation. There are, I believe,
+few persons who would not allow that emigration
+should be encouraged, at all events as a temporary
+remedy, and the rage for building discouraged,
+provided it can be done by just and
+legitimate means. The British government have
+an emigrant agent at Quebec; it encourages
+emigration, and finds co-operation and assistance
+in the Canada Land Company and the Emigrant’s
+Hospital at Quebec. Yet if the timber
+trade in the Canadas were suddenly destroyed
+by the measures which are said to be in contemplation,
+the immediate consequence would
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span>be, that the efforts of government in regard to
+one object would be neutralized by its own
+acts with reference to another. At present,
+there are from six hundred to eight hundred
+ships employed every summer in the timber
+trade. They sometimes carry out a cargo of
+coals, or salt, both paying a very insignificant
+freight (coals sell in Quebec at 26<i>s.</i> the chaldron)
+or more usually go out as it is termed in
+ballast, and thus afford facilities of emigration
+at an exceedingly cheap rate, to thousands
+whose absence from Great Britain is an advantage
+to both countries, as far as population
+is concerned; and who otherwise benefit the
+mother country by affording an additional
+market for her cotton and other manufactures,
+which they soon find the means of purchasing.
+In destroying the Canada timber trade by a
+sudden increase of duties, she is depriving
+herself of all these advantages. She would
+bring sudden ruin upon a numerous class of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span>individuals who have large capitals invested in
+saw mills, and other buildings connected with
+the trade; she would deprive thousands of the
+means of buying and selling land; a number
+of ships would be thrown out of employment;
+emigration would be stopped, or at least greatly
+impeded for want of the facilities which are now
+given; England would not gain in the affections
+of the Canadas; she would lose a rapidly
+increasing market, and the benefit of a fine
+race of British peasantry, who would be ever
+ready to fight in defence of their newly adopted
+country.</p>
+
+<p>The timber is cut in the winter, before the
+sap rises. Suppose then that the new duties
+were imposed, that the trade had consequently
+ceased, and that next year a war, by which the
+Baltic would be closed, should break out about
+the month of March, no timber would have been
+cut and prepared in the Canadas, and there can
+be no doubt that Great Britain would be obliged
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span>either to purchase inferior timber, cut in the
+summer, and prepared at a great additional
+expense, or remain without a supply of timber
+for sixteen months. It is said, and with truth,
+that clearing, for the sake of the timber only,
+rather impedes than assists the progress of cultivation,—a
+few trees only being selected on a
+given space, which are squared on the spot,
+while the lumber and branches are left to present
+additional difficulty to the farmer by becoming
+entangled in the underwood; and it has been
+also remarked, that the annihilation of the trade
+would benefit the Canadas, by augmenting the
+capital and labour that is annually expended
+in agricultural purposes, and that the additional
+quantity of exported wheat, would soon make
+amends for their temporary loss: but it should
+also be considered, that the white-pine, which
+forms much the largest proportion of the timber
+exported from the Canadas, is in many places
+found on a rocky and sandy soil, which is not
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span>available for the purposes of cultivation, and
+moreover that the quantity of wheat exported, is
+already increasing with the tide of emigration
+to an incalculable amount.</p>
+
+<p>In a mercantile and political view, it would
+be better that the Canada timber trade should not
+be interfered with; but if any increase of the
+duties be resolved upon, it should certainly be
+gradual. One reason why the Canada timber
+is not so much liked as that which comes from
+the Baltic, is, that it is not so well squared and
+finished off for the market. In the first year,
+a gradual increase of duties might remedy this
+defect, by encouraging competition, while at
+the same time both the British government, and
+the Canadian capitalist, would be enabled to see
+their way more clearly.</p>
+
+<p>A great proportion of the lands in Lower
+Canada is divided into seignories, which were
+originally granted by the French crown, under
+the feudal tenure. No seignory has been created
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span>since the conquest in 1759: but when crown
+lands have been disposed of, they have been
+granted in what is termed free and common
+soccage, and laid out like the old seignories,
+of which there are about two hundred, in a
+direction of N.N.W. by E.S.E., nearly at right
+angles with the banks of the St. Lawrence.
+The seignor then made grants or “concessions”
+to his under tenants, which by the old French
+custom were thirty acres in length, by three,
+fronting the river. This measurement, however,
+is now often departed from. The seignor receives
+from his tenants an annual rent of a very
+trifling amount, which is not redeemable: he is,
+also, entitled to a mutation fine, called “lods et
+vents,” being one-twelfth part of the money
+paid by the purchaser of land within the seignory.
+The old French law compels the tenants
+to bring their wheat to be ground at the seignor’s
+mill. This custom has been sometimes objected
+to, but no complaint can be reasonably made on
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span>the score of its being an injury to the farmer.
+It imposes no burden, because he can have his
+wheat ground at his own door, and if the seignor’s
+mill does not perform the work properly,
+he may take it to another.</p>
+
+<p>In the Canadas, the civil and criminal laws of
+England are in force generally, subject to provincial
+alterations. The old French law, which
+was in existence previously to the year 1663, is
+still the law of property, with some exceptions,
+in Lower Canada. None of the laws enacted in
+France since that period, extended to the colony
+unless enregistered there. This is the reason
+why the ordinance of 1673, for the better regulation
+of trade, is not in force. The criminal laws
+of England were transplanted into the colonies,
+by 14 Geo. iii. c. 83, and, of course, none passed
+since that period can become law in the Canadas,
+unless they are particularly specified and included
+in their provisions. Properly speaking,
+the Canadas have no commercial code. Great
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span>confusion sometimes arises respecting the decisions
+according to the English custom of merchants,
+and those made under the old French
+code, and actions at law are frequently settled
+according to what appears to be the principle
+of natural justice, rather than according to established
+precedent. This surely conveys a reflection
+upon the wisdom of the provincial
+legislature; but the fact is, that the mercantile
+community is not sufficiently represented in the
+house of assembly for Lower Canada.</p>
+
+<p>Lower Canada is divided into three judicial
+districts—of Quebec, the Three Rivers, and Montreal,
+the boundary line being drawn nearly at
+right angles with the St. Lawrence.</p>
+
+<p>There are but three courts of justice—the
+Court of Appeal, the King’s Bench, and the
+Summary Court. The governor sometimes sits
+as president of the Court of Appeal; but the
+chair is more often filled by one of the chief
+justices. The court is formed by all the members
+of the executive council.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Court of King’s Bench is divided into
+a superior and inferior court. The latter has
+jurisdiction only where the matter in dispute is
+of the value of ten pounds or under. There are
+a chief justice and three puisnè judges at Quebec;
+the same at Montreal, and a district judge
+at the Three Rivers. When the superior court
+is held at this latter place, it is held by one of
+the chief justices, two puisnè judges, and the
+district judge. The summary courts have jurisdiction
+over property to the value of one hundred
+francs, and are held once a month before a
+commissioner appointed by the provincial government,
+on petition from the country inhabitants.
+Quarter sessions are held regularly before three
+magistrates, with much the same power as in
+England, for the punishment of offences against
+the criminal law; and petty civil cases may be
+disposed of daily by one or more magistrates.
+A magistrate is required to have property of the
+real actual value of 300<i>l.</i>, and the oaths upon
+taking office are very strict.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span></p>
+
+<p>A barrister may act as an attorney and solicitor
+at the same time,—which, as in the United
+States, appears to have originated in the impossibility
+of making the profession pay, without
+such an arrangement. Pleadings may be written
+in either language, and English and Canadian
+French are spoken almost indiscriminately in
+the courts. I have observed great and unavoidable
+confusion in the inferior court of King’s
+Bench—the judges, counsel, solicitors, clients,
+and witnesses all talking occasionally at the
+same time in either language, just as it may
+happen; and in the midst of the uproar, the
+Stentorian voice of the officer of the court may
+be heard as he endeavours to restore tranquillity
+by calling out Silence! (English), Silence!
+(French), in quick succession. But the proceedings
+in the superior court are conducted
+with all the decorum of an English court of justice;
+and the old jealous British lion, painted in
+the king’s arms over the heads of the judges,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span>frowns grimly upon the scene, with a pair of
+eyebrows sufficient to inspire even ermined dignity
+itself with awe and veneration. Many of
+the powers belonging to a court of equity, are
+exercised by the court of King’s Bench under
+the old French law. It grants injunctions by
+a process termed a sequestre. It takes care of
+the property of minors, and appoints curators of
+the persons and property of lunatics. The law
+of entail by a limitation, called a “substitution
+fidei commissaire,” is well known in Lower
+Canada, but seldom acted upon.</p>
+
+<p>The attention of the legislature has of late
+been called to the state of the law of dower and
+mortgage, both of which are often productive of
+great confusion and actual injustice. Supposing
+there has been no renunciation of her dower by
+the marriage contract, the wife upon her marriage
+is entitled to a dower of one-half of the
+estate of inheritance then in the possession of
+her husband; and this dower is of itself an estate
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span>of inheritance which descends to her children,
+supposing they take nothing by the “communautè,”
+an arrangement by which the wife is
+entitled to one-half of all property real and personal,
+acquired subsequently to the marriage.
+A communautè may exist with a settlement or
+without one, as in the case I have proposed. At
+the death of the wife in the life time of the
+husband or <i>vice versâ</i>, the law permits the children
+to elect—between one-half of the property
+in communautè to be enjoyed immediately, and
+the real estate which would have formed the
+dower of the wife had she survived her husband,
+which is not to be divided amongst them till
+after the death of the surviving parent. It
+sometimes happens that the husband and wife
+have joined in the sale of the estate, perhaps
+for the present benefit of the children, and with
+their knowledge. This sale, however, cannot
+deprive the children of their estate of inheritance
+in the dower after the decease of the wife, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span>although it is justly reckoned disgraceful for the
+children to claim the estate from a purchaser
+under such circumstances, yet it is sometimes
+done in cases where there was nothing left to be
+divided in communautè. A gentleman informed
+me that such an instance had occurred to himself.
+He had purchased an estate, and had been in
+possession about twenty years. It had been sold
+by the husband and wife upwards of forty years;
+but they were both still living, and he was much
+surprised one day at being informed by the
+children, that at the decease of their mother,
+they intended to come upon him for the amount
+of the dower, as there was no prospect of receiving
+any thing by the communautè.</p>
+
+<p>Till lately, under the then existing law of
+mortgage, a purchaser could seldom be sure of
+buying an unincumbered estate; a previous possessor
+in want of money might have been before
+a notary and have borrowed of a dozen different
+persons, on what is called a tacit mortgage. No
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span>title deeds were required by the lender, but all
+the property of the borrower is liable for the
+amount borrowed; and claims of this kind were
+constantly made upon estates even after the possessor,
+who had taken all pains to clear them off,
+had reason to think himself secure in the enjoyment
+of them. But by a bill that passed the
+legislature in 1828, newly purchased property
+is cleared against creditors who do not put in
+their claims within four months, the rights of
+widows and minors forming an exception.</p>
+
+<p>No writ can issue to secure the person of a
+debtor in the common gaol until all his property
+real and personal has been sold, the real property
+having been advertised in the Gazette for four
+months. At the expiration of that period, attempts
+are sometimes made by a fraudulent debtor
+or his friends, to evade imprisonment by a purchase
+in the debtor’s name of real property to a
+trifling amount, which must be again advertised,
+and so on; although of course wherever the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span>attempt to defraud can be made apparent, the
+courts of justice will interfere. In cases of a
+commercial nature where a judgment has been
+obtained, the debtor has the right of being enlarged,
+upon giving security that he will not
+leave the limits of the city.</p>
+
+<p>In general, the Canadian farmers when old
+and unable to work, make over their property
+by a notarial writing to one of their sons, on
+condition of his paying a certain sum of money
+to his other children; a custom which has the
+effect of preventing too great a division of real
+property. In the deed, which is rather curious,
+it is stipulated that the old man is to be supported
+by his son; that he is to receive from him
+a certain quantity of tea, sugar, and tobacco;
+he is to be furnished if necessary with a horse
+to ride to chapel on Sundays and festivals; and
+when dead a certain number of masses are to be
+said for his soul.</p>
+
+<p>The governor of Lower Canada is assisted by
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span>an executive council, composed of any persons
+whom he chooses to recommend to his majesty
+for appointment. The legislative council, of
+which the members are also appointed by the
+king for life, and the Lower House, or House
+of Assembly, consisting at present of eighty-four
+members. The Chief Justice is the
+Speaker; and the puisnè judges of Quebec
+are members of the Legislative Council; but
+it is in contemplation to procure an act of
+Parliament to remedy this unconstitutional arrangement.
+Independently of the objection
+that could be urged against it as an abuse,
+the judges find ample employment for their
+time in their other avocations. They were
+placed there as a matter of course when the
+colony was in its infancy; but the reasons have
+ceased as the colony has increased in wealth
+and population. The Legislative Council is
+composed of the principal officers of the province,
+and other persons of consideration. Their
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span>number is unlimited, but is usually about thirty.
+The members of the House of Assembly are
+elected in the same manner as the members of
+the House of Commons in England. Quebec
+and Montreal return four members each. There
+are but two boroughs; William Henry or Sorel
+returning one member, and the “Three Rivers”
+returning two members. The other members
+are returned by counties, but no qualification
+whatever is required of any. This is an advantage
+in a young country, where society is
+comparatively small, and wealth is so often
+separated from talent. The qualification necessary
+for a voter is real property to the annual
+value of forty shillings. In the towns the payment
+of ten pounds a-year rent is sufficient,
+and single women are allowed to vote. The
+sittings of the Legislative Council, and the
+House of Assembly, do not usually occupy
+more than ten weeks in the year, commencing
+about the middle of January.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span></p>
+
+<p>By far the larger proportion of the House of
+Assembly are of the radical persuasion. Like
+the rest of the old French Canadians, they have
+a strong negative attachment to the British
+government: because they are satisfied with the
+protection they enjoy, and are aware that they
+could not exist without it; but their proceedings
+evince little actual gratitude or affection
+for the mother country. Their grievances,
+whether they are those that really do exist, or
+those that are to be traced in the imaginary
+discontents of a few leading demagogues, being
+frequently discussed with more than constitutional
+jealousy, and with more petulant vehemence
+than is merited by the redressing and
+conciliatory spirit of the British government.
+And yet when we consider the events that are
+passing in Europe, it is not singular that such
+should be the conduct of a people, of whom
+it is said, that when a constitution was first
+talked of, they would have preferred that their
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span>country should have continued under the direction
+of a governor and council, or rather
+under that of a governor alone.</p>
+
+<p>During the last session a bill passed the
+house of assembly, for an allowance to the
+members of 10<i>s.</i> a-day, beside their travelling
+expenses, but was rejected by the legislative
+council. Nevertheless when the Supply Bill
+came under consideration, the house of assembly
+tacked on the desired amount for the payment
+of their members, and the bill in that state
+was most inconsistently consented to by the
+legislative council.</p>
+
+<p>Another instance of unconstitutional irregularity
+may be mentioned. The 31st of Geo. iii.,
+c. 31, declares who shall be qualified to sit as
+members of the assembly, but it creates no disqualification
+to sit and vote in persons accepting
+offices of trust and profit, after their election.
+By this act also, no bill reserved by the governor
+for the royal signature shall have any force or
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span>authority within either province, unless his
+majesty’s assent thereto shall be signified within
+the space of two years from the day on which
+the bill shall have been presented for his majesty’s
+assent by the governor. In the year 1830,
+after various proceedings in the same matter, a
+bill for the disqualification of persons accepting
+government offices, until re-elected, from sitting
+in the legislative assembly, was passed by both
+houses, and the governor thought it of sufficient
+importance to reserve it for the royal assent.
+Two years, as we have seen, is allowed for the
+signification of his majesty’s pleasure, and if no
+answer is given in that time, the bill passes into
+a law forthwith. The bill was sent to England,
+and long before the time had expired, the impatient
+house of assembly entered a resolution
+on their journals, that any member accepting
+an office under government shall be considered
+as vacating his seat <i>ipso facto</i>, with the capability
+of being re-elected. As to the justice of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span>case, there can be no doubt; but when they
+themselves had commenced the application in a
+constitutional manner, their subsequent attempt
+to fly in the face of the prerogative does not
+reflect much credit on their loyalty.</p>
+
+<p>The net revenue of Lower Canada for the
+year 1830, was 128,345<i>l.</i> 3<i>s.</i> 4<i>d.</i>, being an increase
+of 5200<i>l.</i> over the preceding year. The
+bulk of this sum is at the disposal of the provincial
+legislature; and is expended in the country
+on internal improvements of every kind. The
+proposed civil list for the year 1831 amounted to
+19,500<i>l.</i>; but 14,000<i>l.</i> of this is all that is asked
+of the province by the royal message, besides
+a reservation by virtue of the prerogative, of
+what are termed the casual and territorial revenues
+of the crown, such as the rents of the
+Jesuits’ estates, rents of the king’s posts, &amp;c. &amp;c.,
+which, to use the words of the governor’s message,
+of the 23d of February, 1831, can operate
+in no degree as a tax upon the people, or tend
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span>either in their nature, or in the mode of their
+collection, to impede or impair the prosperity of
+the province. But nevertheless the committee
+of the house of assembly have resolved never to
+compromise what they call the natural and constitutional
+right of watching over and controlling
+the receipt and expenditure of the whole revenue.
+Will they object when the remuneration of their
+clergy is thrown upon them, as is contemplated
+by the British government?</p>
+
+<p>It would be tedious, and far beyond the
+limits of this work, to enter into a detail of all
+the grievances complained of by the house of
+assembly; many of them have been, or are in
+the way of being, remedied, and they may be
+found in the report of the committee of the
+house of commons on the affairs of the Canadas,
+in 1827. They complain in their petition to
+parliament that the affairs of the province were
+growing worse under the existing government;
+that the value of land was diminished; that there
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span>was a waste of the public revenue; that the
+enactment of beneficial laws was rejected by
+one branch of the legislature composed of
+persons dependent on the government; that the
+creditor of the government had not sufficient
+remedy; that sufficient security was not required
+of persons having the disposal of the public
+moneys; that the independence of the judges
+was not sufficiently consulted; and they asked
+for the appointment of a resident agent for
+the colonies, in England, &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>One of the schemes at present in agitation
+in the house of assembly is the entire dissolution
+of the legislative council; a measure which that
+more loyal body do not exactly relish, and on
+the 31st of March, 1831, they passed a number
+of resolutions expressive of their loyalty, and
+respectfully setting forth their grievances at the
+same time. In the report of a special committee
+of the house of assembly appointed for
+taking into consideration the governor’s message,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span>in which his majesty, relying on the liberality
+and justice of the legislature of Lower Canada,
+invites them to consider the propriety of making
+some settled provision for such portion of the
+civil government of the province, as may upon
+examination appear to require an arrangement
+of a more permanent nature than those supplies
+which it belongs to the legislature to determine
+by annual votes; it was resolved, that as information
+relative to the expenditure of the sum
+demanded for casual expenses, and divers services,
+and of the manner in which the rents of
+the Jesuits’ estates, and the other casual and
+territorial revenues, are applied, was still refused
+by the British government; they had therefore
+deemed it inexpedient to make “aucune allocation
+permanente ulterieure pour les depenses
+du gouvernement;”—the legislative council, in
+their resolutions noticed above, having expressed
+a cordial disposition to concur with his majesty’s
+government in making such an arrangement.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Jesuits’ estates, the convent, and the
+seminary, hold the city of Quebec in signory.
+The convent of the Jesuits is now converted
+into a barrack, and forms one side of the
+market-place in the upper town. By the way,
+I should recommend any traveller to visit the
+market-place in the lower town, where he will
+see some of the old French Canadians, with
+their long pig-tails tied up with eel-skins.
+The order of the Jesuits was suppressed at
+the conquest of the colony by the British.
+Government took possession of the estates belonging
+to them, and has since enjoyed the
+whole revenue, amounting to about 2500<i>l.</i>
+per annum; and though frequently applied to
+by the provincial legislature, has thought fit
+to conceal the manner in which it has been
+employed. Amongst other expenses, those
+incurred in the building the episcopal church,
+were, it is said, defrayed from this source.</p>
+
+<p>Before I quitted Quebec, I was present at
+a ball, given by a lady and gentleman who had
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span>been united for the first time that day fifty
+years, and were again married on that morning
+by a Catholic priest.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>I returned from Quebec to Montreal by the
+John Bull steam-boat, probably the largest
+river boat in the world. Montreal is considerably
+larger than Quebec, and contains
+50,000 inhabitants. Its front towards the river
+will be much improved by a fine quay which
+is now building. The principal objects are
+the convents and the new Catholic cathedral,
+a very large and handsome specimen of the
+simple gothic; but its internal decorations do
+not correspond with its majestic exterior. The
+view from the mountain of Montreal, nearly
+700 feet high, is of the same kind, but I think
+inferior to the view from the ramparts of
+Quebec. The city is nearly two miles distant,
+and is seen to great advantage lying along the
+bank of the magnificent St. Lawrence, whose
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span>broadly expanded waters can be followed by
+the eye for many a league, both above and
+below the city. On the opposite side, the
+country is one vast flat plain, from which
+the isolated mountain of Chambli, and another
+peak at a few miles distance, abruptly arise;
+and by relieving the monotony of the view,
+have the merit of giving it a decided tone and
+character, to which it would not otherwise be
+entitled. The horizon is formed by the bold
+outline of the distant mountains of Vermont,
+and those of the eastern part of the state of
+New York.</p>
+
+<p>I left Montreal to make an excursion up the
+Ottowa. The beauty of this river, the situation
+of Bytown, and the Rideau canal, were themes
+of admiration with every one who had seen
+them. I went on board a steam-boat at the
+village of La Chine, and in a few hours we
+were in sight of St. Ann’s, and alongside the
+rapids, which we passed by means of a short
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span>canal. About this spot the clear but dark-coloured
+“Ottowa tide” is chequered by many
+a green isle, if they can be so called, when
+clothed, as I saw them, in the diversified and
+brilliant colours that characterise the foliage of
+the American forest during the autumn. Every
+variety of green can be discerned—from the
+darkness of the fir, to the silvery leaf of the
+poplar or the willow—while the unaccustomed
+eye is delighted by the bright yellow of the
+fading hickory, and the admirable finish which
+is given to the picture, by the broad patches of
+deep and actual crimson of the sumach and the
+soft maple. I must again repeat, that I have
+seen nothing of the kind that can equal the
+surpassing beauty of an American forest in
+“the fall.” It may with justice be compared
+to the brilliancy of a bed of tulips. We entered
+the lake of the Two Mountains, so called
+from two lofty hills on the right. On the top
+of one of them, Mount Calvary, is a chapel
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span>built by the Jesuits, and connected with the
+Indian village on the margin of the lake by a line
+of chapels, placed at intervals in the pathway. Its
+sudden appearance in the bosom of the forest, is
+extremely effective and picturesque. Immediately
+behind the Indian village is a large bank of
+white sand, which in the distance may be easily
+taken for a well-cleared stubble field. At Carillon
+we were obliged to leave the steam boat,
+and proceed by land to the town of Grenville,
+along the side of the canal, cut for the purpose
+of avoiding the rapids of the “Long Saut,”
+which, when the river is swollen, are said to be
+exceedingly violent, even more so than those
+of the St. Lawrence. I found the banks on both
+sides of the river were cleared and cultivated
+to a degree that far exceeded my expectations,
+whilst the unfinished canal gives employment
+to several hundred poor emigrants, who were
+living chiefly in log-houses along the road-side,
+ranged amongst many other dwellings of a
+better description.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Ottowa, although perceptibly inferior to
+the St. Lawrence in width and volume, is still
+one of the largest second-rate rivers in North
+America. Below Carillon, which is thirty-five
+miles from St. Ann’s, I observed nothing excepting
+the foliage I have mentioned, that an acquaintance
+with American scenery had not rendered
+familiar; but on approaching Grenville a
+lofty range of hills, containing rich mines of
+plumbago, ranges very majestically on the north
+bank of the river, which in many places is
+widened to a surface equalling that of a small
+lake, with its shores broken by majestic headlands.
+Soon afterwards, cultivation comparatively
+ceases, and the river bears a resemblance
+to the wilder part of the Ohio above Louisville,
+excepting that the forest trees on its banks and
+islands, are not so lofty as those of the latter
+river.</p>
+
+<p>Bytown is 65 miles from Grenville and 120
+from Montreal. It is divided into an upper and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span>lower town; containing many excellent houses.
+Thirty years ago, there was scarcely an habitation
+in the vicinity, excepting that of Philemon
+Wright, Esq., a Bostonian, and one of the best
+farmers in Canada, who with singular enterprise
+and sagacity, foresaw that at no very distant
+period it must become a place of importance,
+and as the Americans would say, “located
+himself” in the untouched forests of the Ottowa.
+A new world has sprung up around him, and he
+now predicts, with great appearance of truth,
+that Bytown will become the capital of the
+country: a glance at the map will shew the
+justice of his reasoning. The Ottowa or Grand
+river, runs through the country for about 500
+miles above Bytown. In its course it is joined
+by several considerable streams, by means of
+which a water communication can be extended
+to Hudson’s bay on the north; and on the south
+it is connected with Lake Huron, which is not
+more than 100 miles distant, through the medium
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span>of Lake Nipisany; and as the Saut de St. Marie,
+at the foot of Lake Superior, is said to be 800
+miles nearer Montreal than to New York, it is
+highly probable that a considerable proportion of
+the product of the country around the great
+lakes, even from the further part of Lake
+Michigan, will find its way to the Ottowa.</p>
+
+<p>The pretty, unpretending fall of the Rideau,
+so called by the French from its resemblance to
+a white curtain, is seen on the left immediately
+before the boat rounds the headland that conceals
+the locks of the celebrated Rideau canal,
+which are suddenly presented to the view, lying
+in a slope, between two lofty and precipitous
+banks, nearly perpendicular towards the river.
+That on the right is 160 feet in height, composed
+of limestone. On the area of the top,
+which may be from 500 to 600 yards in circumference,
+are the barracks and the hospital. It
+will probably be the site of an impregnable
+fortress, which might be built for 60,000<i>l.</i>; an
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span>expense which should not be spared, when it
+is considered that the splendid works on the
+canal, at present unfortified, might be destroyed
+in half-an-hour. The locks themselves, eight
+in number, are magnificent in every respect,
+and reflect the highest credit on the engineer,
+Colonel By. In length they occupy a space of
+1260 feet, and from the surface of the river to
+the top of the bank there is a perpendicular rise
+of 84 feet. Each lock is 134 feet long, 33 wide,
+and 17 in depth. The canal, for several miles
+above Bytown, is supplied by the Rideau river,
+and before it reaches Kingston on Lake Ontario, a
+distance of 140 miles, a head of water is obtained
+by means of thirteen dams of different dimensions,
+the largest being 300 feet wide and 65 deep.
+The navigation is continued by means of these
+dams, as there is not above seven or eight miles
+of excavation throughout the whole distance.</p>
+
+<p>On the supposition that military stores are
+to be sent from Montreal to supply the troops in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span>Upper Canada, or a fleet on Lake Ontario, it
+is intended that they should pass through the
+channel behind the island of Montreal, which is
+not yet rendered navigable; that they should
+proceed up the Ottowa, ascending the rapids by
+means of the Grenville canal, and upon arriving
+at Bytown, be forwarded to Kingston along the
+Rideau, which thus affords a method of communication
+infinitely shorter than any land conveyance,—an
+additional advantage arising from
+its great distance from the American frontier, and
+proportionate security from hostile incursion.
+Although the Rideau canal is principally a military
+work, it will be of the greatest importance
+in a commercial point of view, on account of
+its affording a direct means of conveyance by its
+communication with a number of smaller streams
+that intersect it at intervals, and which will enable
+the settlers who live many miles from the
+banks to forward the produce of their farms,
+with certainty and celerity. The difficulty and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span>expense of conveyance was originally a great
+drawback upon the use of British manufactures
+in the Upper Province; they paid a freight
+from Quebec of 5<i>l.</i> a ton; but by means of the
+Rideau canal, the freight has been reduced one-half.
+Land, according to its situation on different
+parts of the canal, was selling from two to five
+dollars the acre; crown lands at a fixed price
+of 1<i>l.</i> the acre. On application to any of the
+crown land agents, a ticket may be obtained,
+containing a permission to cut timber on a certain
+space of ground, on payment of a duty to
+government of one penny the foot.</p>
+
+<p>On the opposite side of the river stands the
+village of Hull. A winding road about a mile
+in length conducted me to the bridges thrown
+over the fall of the Ottowa, which according to
+the usual appellation bestowed by the French
+upon any fall of magnitude in the Canadas, is
+termed the “Chaudiere,” or “boiler.” The
+bed of the river is divided into five channels
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span>formed in the solid rock, with more or less of a
+fall in each of them. The largest may be about
+thirty feet in height, and from its greater violence
+has worn away the precipice for a considerable
+distance behind the others, which project and
+recede in a most singular manner, whilst the
+river not contented with so many ways of escape,
+rolls over the bare ledge of the rock that is extended
+between them, so that its eager waters are
+tumbling in all directions. The whole width of
+the stream immediately at the head of the fall,
+is more than half a mile. It was not particularly
+full when I saw it, but was darting through the
+bridges with extreme violence. In the spring,
+when the river is swollen by the melted ice and
+snow, the whole of the rocks are so deeply
+covered by the flood, that there is little or no fall
+to be seen even at the Chaudiere, as the principal
+fall is called; and I could easily conceive that the
+rush of water at that season of the year must be
+tremendous. The whole scene was exceedingly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span>curious; and although rather disappointed at
+first sight, I felt myself amply repaid for my
+excursion to Bytown. When it was first understood
+that a bridge was to be thrown across from
+rock to rock, an old American who had known
+the river in its fury, and firmly believed that
+such a scheme was impracticable, was heard to
+predict with great emphasis, and corresponding
+action, that some day or other “it would go
+right slit to immortal smash.” Many of the
+poor Scotch emigrants answered to my inquiry
+as to their destination, that they were “ganging
+to Perth;” a thriving town, about fifty miles
+above Bytown, and situated between the Ottowa
+and the Rideau canal. Thirty miles on the
+river above Bytown, is the settlement on the
+Lake “des Chats.”</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the fatal field of Culloden,
+the unfortunate Prince Charles Edward presented
+himself, wearied and alone, at the door
+of a hut, and requested sustenance and momentary
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span>concealment; the inmate, a poor tailor,
+who recognized his person, mounted guard at
+the door whilst his illustrious guest was sleeping
+within, on a pallet of heather. He was soon
+aroused by the tailor, who awakened him by
+exclaiming in Gaelic, “My prince, core of my
+heart! save yourself, for the enemy are upon
+you.” A party of cavalry were galloping towards
+the hut, and the prince had just time to escape
+through a small back window, and reach the
+Morven mountains. For his greater comfort in
+repose he had deposited his sword upon a bench
+in a corner of the hut; and in the precipitancy
+of his flight he had forgotten to take it with him.
+The tailor had just time to conceal it, by removing
+the earth and burying it under the heather.
+The cavalry demanded the prince, saying
+that they had information that he had taken
+refuge in the hut, and carried off the tailor as
+their prisoner, who was afterwards confined in
+Edinburgh castle. In the mean time the sword
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span>still remained where he had buried it, but the
+hut became a heap of ruins. Whilst the “Clan
+and Disarming Act” (afterwards repealed by the
+exertions of the Duke of Montrose) was in force,
+he dare say nothing about the sword, but upon
+his death-bed in Breadalbane, the poor tailor
+informed his cousin, Finlay Mc Nauton, where
+the sword was to be found. He searched and
+found it, in the spot where it had lain from 1745
+to 1784. The belt and scabbard were rotted
+with moisture, and the blade of course nearly
+covered with rust. It is the real old Highland
+basket-hilted claymore. On the rust being
+removed, the burning heart of the Bruce surmounted
+by the crown of Scotland became
+visible on the blade. Between them is engraved
+“Le Chevalier.” On the reverse are the words,
+“Vive le Roi,” extending the whole length of
+the blade. Finlay Mc Nauton joined the veteran
+battalion, and died at Gibraltar, the sword being
+still in his possession. Upon his death, it
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span>passed with the rest of his effects into the hands
+of John Mc Nauton, his brother, who is still
+alive at a very advanced age in Glengary, the
+oldest settlement in Upper Canada. Who would
+expect to hear that this sword, positively the
+most classical object in America, is now, as it
+were, lying in state on the banks of the Lake
+“des Chats,” in the wild forests of the Ottowa,
+not less than 150 miles from Montreal. Mc Nab
+of Mc Nab, the nephew and representative of
+the late laird, founded the settlement with the
+advice and under the auspices of his kinsman,
+the Earl of Dalhousie, the late governor of
+Lower Canada. He has collected around him
+about two hundred of his clan, whose forefathers
+followed his ancestors in the hour of battle, and
+have now gone with him in the day of their
+distress to clear and cultivate the wilderness of
+the Ottowa under his superintendence. He has
+possession of the sword, and never shows it to a
+stranger but in the presence of his piper, who
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span>is ordered to play the whole time. It was given
+to him by John Mc Nauton, who added in
+Gaelic, that “some damned long-legged fellow
+of a Sassanach had asked him for the sword and
+offered him money for it, but that he would
+never disgrace the clan of Mc Nauton by giving
+over that sword to an Englishman.”</p>
+
+<p>The boundary line between Upper and Lower
+Canada leaves the St. Lawrence about 28 miles
+below Cornwall, and after running in nearly a
+straight direction, comes in contact with the
+Ottowa river at Point Fortune, opposite to
+Carillon. It pursues the course of the river
+for many a league beyond the habitations of
+civilised society; and then strikes off to Hudson’s
+bay. During the last session, an Act was
+passed in the provincial Parliament for the appointment
+of Commissioners to ascertain its
+exact direction, in order to satisfy the borderers,
+who complained of being subjected to the laws
+of either province alternately. The idea of an
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span>union of the two Canadas has apparently been
+dropped for the present. Perhaps the majority
+of the British inhabitants in both provinces
+would be in favour of such a project, or at all
+events would not offer much opposition to it;
+but the French population in Lower Canada
+would display a most violent aversion to any
+change of the kind. The old French law would
+of course be superseded by the laws of England
+subject to provincial alterations, and the French
+Canadian influence in the government would
+decline in proportion to the importance of the
+British interest in the House of Assembly, which
+would be increased by the accession of delegates
+from the Upper Province. Upper Canada
+would have no objection to a port of entry, by
+which her share of the duties on imports would
+be exactly regulated by the quantity she consumed.
+Every ship trading to the Canadas
+must of course discharge her cargo either at
+Quebec or Montreal. By the arrangement,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span>solicited and obtained by Upper Canada in 1822,
+no duties can be laid on goods imported or
+passing into Lower Canada without the consent
+of both provinces, or by the British parliament;
+and the just proportion of the duties due to
+each province settled by arbitration, and its share
+paid over to the Upper Province. The proportion
+it now receives by the existing regulation
+is 25 per cent.; but this it will be seen must be
+increased, when it is considered that by far the
+greater number of the settlers resort to the
+Upper Province, that the French Canadian peasantry
+usually prefer the coarse cloth of their
+own manufacture, and that therefore the bulk of
+the imports from Great Britain must find their
+way to the northern shore of Lake Ontario.</p>
+
+<p>It is probable that much confusion would ensue
+for a length of time after an union should take
+place, and it is equally so, that the Canadas
+themselves would eventually be gainers by the
+measure; but the more serious question is,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span>whether it is not better for the mother country
+to have two parties there, instead of one; and
+whether it would be politic in Great Britain to
+promote an arrangement that would render the
+colonies far more independent than would be
+consistent with their allegiance to their mother
+country. As it is, the French Canadian interest
+is really on the decline, and the British population
+is wonderfully increasing. Every thing
+considered, the Canadas are improving with a
+rapidity not surpassed by any country upon
+earth; and I humbly conceive, that experimental
+interference should be deprecated, because
+it would lead to a certain interruption of
+their present career of prosperity, for the sake
+of a distant and not certain advantage.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb">
+
+<p>I returned to Montreal. When a traveller
+approaches Montreal he naturally turns his eye
+to the mountain behind it, and feels surprised
+that there is no fortification by which a city of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span>so much importance, and so near the American
+frontier could be commanded,—strictly speaking,
+a fort should be built on the top of the mountain,
+and at La Chine, and on Nun’s island, by which,
+together with the batteries on St. Helen’s island
+in the river, immediately opposite to the city,
+the passage of the St. Lawrence would be effectually
+defended. But, when it is considered that
+the top of the hill, or mountain, is three miles
+from the city; that it requires eleven pounds of
+powder to throw a thirteen-inch shell to the
+distance of one mile; that all the fortifications in
+the world would not preserve the Canadas to us,
+if the natives were against us; that the Americans
+could never take Montreal so long as the
+Canadians would fight on our side; that there is
+a prospect of a lasting peace between Great
+Britain and the United States; and finally, the
+probability that before another half century has
+passed away, the Canadas will cease, by a bloodless
+negociation, to be a British colony—an
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span>enormous expense may well be spared, by
+leaving the city in its present state.</p>
+
+<p>The picturesque island of St. Helen’s, contains
+a small garrison, and a large quantity of
+military stores. On the angle of the saluting
+battery on the south-west corner of the island,
+the French flag waved its last in the Canadas.</p>
+
+<p>I left Montreal, after having discovered that
+there was a pack of fox-hounds kept close by,
+and that they hunted regularly, and occasionally
+on by-days. They had not been long organised,
+but promised very well. I was also present for
+one day during the races. The course is two
+miles in length, and in excellent condition, being
+railed off the whole distance. I saw one race,
+which was admirably contested; but the ground
+was not well attended, and the others did not
+go off with spirit. I was told, however, that
+there was a great prospect of improvement, as
+the Canadians were beginning to be fond of the
+sport. The excitement would have been much
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span>greater if it had lasted but two days instead of
+four; and a public ball afterwards would not
+have been amiss.</p>
+
+<p>I then crossed the river in a steam-boat to
+La Prairie, distant nine miles from Montreal.
+A miserably bad road conducted me to Blair
+Findie, and subsequently to the very pretty
+village of Chamble, where orchards and corn-fields
+were to be seen on all sides. Both these
+places, particularly the former, are well known
+to the Canadian sportsmen as the favourite haunt
+of the woodcock—perhaps the best in America.
+They are found in great numbers in the low
+birch woods around Blair Findie, where a good
+shot will sometimes kill above twenty couple in
+a morning, and I heard that in one instance as
+many as eighty couple were killed in two days
+by two guns.</p>
+
+<p>The beginning of October is the best season
+for shooting all kinds of game in the Canadas.</p>
+
+<p>The American woodcock is considerably
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span>smaller than the European bird, seldom or very
+rarely exceeding eight ounces in weight, and
+its plumage is, I think, handsomer. The spots
+of brown on the back are larger and deeper,
+and the breast, instead of being marked with
+dusky bars, is of a fine almond colour. Their
+flavour is similar. The American bird when
+flushed, rises very rapidly, with a small shrill
+quickly repeated whistle, and seldom flies beyond
+a distance of one hundred yards. Sportsmen
+who do not mind the heat, will find the
+shooting exceedingly good in the month of
+July, when the woodcocks first return from their
+southern haunts for the purpose of breeding.
+In the northern States and the Canadas, they
+may be shot till the first fortnight in November
+has elapsed, after which they retreat to a warmer
+climate for the winter. No pheasant, partridge,
+or quail, is strictly speaking found in North
+America. The partridge, so called in the States,
+is the quail of the Canadas: but although on
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span>account of its size and general appearance it
+might easily be mistaken for the latter bird, it
+is in fact a species of the new genus, “ortyx.”
+The difference between the real quail and the
+ortyx of America, like that between the long
+and short-winged hawks, consists in the structure
+of the wing: in the one, the second feather is
+longest; in the other, the fourth, which evidently
+unfits it for taking a long flight. The “<ins class="corr" id="TN-4" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: oxtyx virginianus">ortyx
+virginianus</ins>” has become naturalized in Suffolk,
+and has been shot near Uxbridge. A species of
+the genus coturnix, or real quail, has been found
+near the Straits of Magellan. The pheasant of
+the States is the partridge of the Canadas, and
+is in fact a very handsome species of grouse,
+feathered down to the toes, and having in a
+great measure the habits of the capercaily, living
+entirely in the woods, and treeing readily when
+put up by a small dog. I have before noticed
+the grouse, or barren, or prairie hen. In the
+Canadas there is also a darker coloured species,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span>called, the spruce partridge. A large grouse,
+nearly allied to the capercaily in size and colour,
+is found near the Rocky Mountains; and although
+five or six different kinds of grouse are
+to be found in North America—including, I
+believe, the ptarmigan—yet the black and red
+game of Scotland are not among them. A smaller
+species of red grouse is plentiful in Newfoundland.</p>
+
+<p>The same animal is called a hare in the
+States, and a rabbit in the Canadas. It never
+burrows; its usual colour is that of the European
+hare and rabbit mixed, and the meat is dark,
+like that of the European hare. A larger species
+which turns white in the winter, and is termed
+on that account, the varying hare, is more common
+in the Canadas than in the States, but is no
+where plentiful. I would here remark that any
+traveller who brings his gun with him, and has
+a decided wish to see some American shooting,
+should bring his own dog with him; any that he
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span>can depend on for general purposes, be it of
+what breed it may.</p>
+
+<p>America offers a fine field to the ornithologist,
+and even a traveller who is usually careless
+of the study of natural history, cannot fail to
+be delighted with the variety of beautiful birds
+which he will see in merely passing through the
+American forests, more particularly in those of
+the States. Red birds, blue birds, and yellow
+or Baltimore birds (a species of starling), will
+frequently fly across his path; turtle doves are
+constantly alighting in the road before him; a
+large, magnificent species of woodpecker, with a
+red crest, usually termed the woodcock, will sometimes
+make his appearance; a great variety of the
+same genus, particularly a small species with a
+marked plumage of black, white, and crimson, are
+almost always in sight; he will be startled and
+deceived by the mew of the catbird,—and his
+eye and ear will be attracted by the brilliant
+plumage of the blue jay, the singing of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span>mocking-bird, the melodious flute-like whistle
+of the wood-thrush, or the instantaneous buz of
+the passing humming-bird. Considering the
+wildness of the country, I was very much surprised
+at the scarcity of the larger birds of prey;
+a small brown vulture, commonly misnamed the
+turkey-buzzard, is however an exception. I
+never saw but one bald eagle in America: he
+was beating for his prey over the mountain of
+Montreal; his snow-white head and tail being
+discernible at a great distance. They are more
+numerous on the sea coast, near the haunts of
+the fish-hawk (osprey). When this latter bird
+has taken a fish, the bald eagle who has been
+watching his movements from a neighbouring
+height, will commence a most furious attack
+upon him, will force him to drop his prey, and
+frequently seize it before it can disappear under
+water. The bald eagle is the national emblem
+of the United States. It was well remarked
+by Dr. Franklin, that the wild turkey would
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span>have answered the purpose better, being exclusively
+indigenous to North America, and having
+an innate and violent antipathy to red coats.</p>
+
+<p>Chambli is a large, straggling village, containing
+perhaps 5000 inhabitants, of which 4000
+are communicants at the Catholic church. The
+Catholic doctrine, divested of the pomp and
+absurdity of ceremony, being no where more
+strictly adhered to, than amongst the peasantry
+of Lower Canada. The houses are scattered
+around what is called the basin of Chambli—a
+lake about three miles in length and two in
+breadth, formed in the Richelieu river. A canal
+is now forming, which in a few years will contribute
+very much to the prosperity and importance
+of the village of Chambli and the surrounding
+country. When finished, the course
+of navigation between lake Champlain and the
+St. Lawrence, at present impeded by the rapids
+at Chambli, will be safe from interruption; so
+that the produce of “the townships,” as the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span>lands granted by the crown are termed, will be
+conveyed directly to Quebec instead of passing
+through Montreal.</p>
+
+<p>An old fort built by the French is standing
+at the foot of the rapids. The situation is
+selected with their usual judgment, it being
+scarcely assailable from the water. Chambli has
+also barracks for 1000 horse, and 15,000 infantry,
+but at present they are unoccupied.</p>
+
+<p>I would recommend every one who has time
+at his disposal, to ascend the Belleisle mountain,
+distant eleven miles from Chambli. It
+is principally composed of granite, and rises
+abruptly from the plain to a height of more
+than 2000 feet. From the top may be seen
+the finest view in the Canadas. The eye roams
+on every side, over a vast extent of country,
+and the uniform direction of the “concessions”
+or lands held in signorie, contributes not a
+little to the singularity of the prospect. On
+the north, the <ins class="corr" id="TN-5" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: St. Lawrence">St. Lawrence</ins> is visible on a clear
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span>day as far as the “Three Rivers,” which is
+half-way to Quebec; on the south and east, are
+the mountains of New York and Vermont. The
+city of Montreal, at the distance of seventeen
+miles to the westward, would appear like a
+white streak on the banks of the river; but
+that the superior height of the towers of the
+cathedral are distinctly relieved by the dark
+wooded sides of the hill, whose elevation is
+much diminished by the distance. The Richelieu
+river appears to run at the foot of the
+mountain, and the whole of its course is visible
+from lake Champlain to the St. Lawrence.
+The mountain itself is exceedingly picturesque;
+a small and very pretty lake being embosomed
+in its well-wooded recesses, like that of Tarni
+near Tivoli. The ascent from Chambli occupied
+a day; but I thought myself amply repaid
+for the time I had expended, and the fatigue
+I had undergone. I proceeded to St. John’s,
+and took the steam-boat for lake Champlain.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span>In a few hours we passed the old fort at Rouse’s
+point, which by the late decision of the king of
+the Netherlands, on the boundary question, is
+now in possession of the Americans, although
+it stands on the Canadian side of the river. By
+the treaty of 1783, the boundary line between
+the United States and Lower Canada was imperfectly
+defined as extending “from the north
+west angle of Nova Scotia (now New Brunswick)
+to that angle which is formed by a line
+drawn due north from the source of the St.
+Croix river to the Highlands; along the said
+Highlands which divide those rivers that empty
+themselves in the river St. Lawrence from those
+which fall into the Atlantic ocean.” But as
+the land had never been surveyed, so that the
+position of these Highlands might be ascertained,
+and it having always been disputed
+which were the rivers referred to, commissioners
+were appointed at the treaty of Ghent, to determine
+the true boundary, and as they could not
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span>agree, the king of the Netherlands was proposed
+as an arbitrator. Two lines were laid before
+him, on one of which he was to decide; one
+drawn by the Americans on the north of the
+Temisconata lake, and the other by the British
+300 miles to the south of it. His majesty, however,
+in his award followed neither of them;
+but has drawn a line between them to the river
+St. John, transferring to the United States about
+six millions of acres; and has brought the most
+northerly point of the boundary for sixty miles
+within thirteen miles of the <ins class="corr" id="TN-6" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: St Lawrence">St. Lawrence</ins>, whilst
+200 miles below, it strikes off to the south-east
+after having approached within fifty miles of
+Quebec. The old French Canadian settlers
+on the St. John and Madawaska settlements,
+and who, like the rest of their countrymen,
+have a mortal antipathy to the Americans, are
+exceedingly annoyed at being thus transferred
+into the dominion of the States; but as both
+Great Britain and the United States are dissatisfied
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span>with the decision, it is probable that
+some other arrangement will be made.</p>
+
+<p>We then passed the isle Aux Noix, the
+British naval establishment on lake Champlain,
+I observed several schooners on the stocks, remaining,
+like the ships at Kingston, as they
+were at the close of the war, and several old
+gun boats that appeared to have taken part in
+it. The expenses of the fort, which effectually
+commands the passage from the lake, are the
+same as those of a frigate; and, as such, are
+placed on the naval establishment instead of
+the military.</p>
+
+<p>Upon entering the lake, the shores appeared
+extremely flat and uninteresting. We touched
+at Plattsburg, and passed over the scene of
+Mc Donough’s victory over our fleet in the last
+war. We then arrived at Burlington, and at
+nine o’clock the next morning I started to cross
+the New England, or Yankee States, on my
+way to Boston. The coachman drove six-in-hand,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span>and in a very workmanlike manner, without
+locking the wheels, but descending several
+hills so steep that as a Yankee expressed himself,
+It was like driving off the roof of a house. A
+detailed description of the road is unnecessary:
+it wound through the beautiful and well cultivated
+valleys of Vermont and New Hampshire,
+running for many miles along the banks of the
+Onion and Connecticut rivers; whilst the forests
+on the hills around were every where clothed in
+their splendid autumnal garb, and overshadowed
+some of the prettiest and happiest looking villages
+I ever saw in any country; the houses
+being chiefly white, with green blinds, and
+otherwise displaying an excellent taste in design.
+Whole fields were strewed with enormous
+pumpkins, and others were covered with broom
+corn, which is no bad substitute for oats. We
+passed through Montpelier, and skirted the rocky
+mountain of Monadnoc, stopping to look at
+the Bellow’s fall, on the Connecticut river, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span>afterwards arriving at Concord, where the fire
+of the British troops was returned by the Americans
+for the first time during the revolutionary
+war, on the 19th of April, 1775. General Gage
+had sent them to seize and destroy some stores
+which had been secretly collected at Concord.
+They succeeded in their attempt, but were subsequently
+obliged to retreat. The fight took
+place at the north bridge, about three quarters
+of a mile from the bridge over which the road
+now passes. The inhabitants are proud, and
+justly proud, of this event.</p>
+
+<p>At Lexington, six miles nearer to Boston,
+stands a plain monument to the memory of the
+militia men who were fired upon and dispersed
+by the British troops on the same morning, previously
+to their advance upon Concord.</p>
+
+<p>I entered Boston by the light of innumerable
+lamps, that plainly marked the direction
+of its many bridges, and took up my quarters
+at the Tremont hotel,—decidedly, taken altogether,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span>the best house in the United States.
+The table and the bed-rooms were equally good,
+which is not the case at any other I had seen.
+In appearance it more resembles a government
+building than a hotel. Breakfast, dinner, tea,
+and supper are served up, as usual, at a certain
+hour; and although that hour at breakfast time
+is liberally extended, yet if it happens that a
+person be detained too long, he must either go
+without his dinner, or put up with cold and disfigured
+viands placed before him with an ill
+grace by a tired waiter, or pay extra for a meal
+expressly served up for him; as the hotel charges
+are two, or two dollars and a half a-day, and
+it makes no difference whether he attends the
+table d’hôte or not.</p>
+
+<p>The principal theatre is exactly opposite the
+Tremont. The front is ornamented with Ionic
+pilasters supporting an entablature and pediment.
+The interior is tastefully arranged, but
+is seldom visited by the first circles.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Indian name of Boston was Shawmut,
+its first English appellation was Trimountain,
+and its present name was given in 1630.</p>
+
+<p>At an early day after my arrival, I took the
+opportunity of ascending the capitol, which stands
+on the most elevated corner of “the Common.”
+The Common, according to the usual English
+signification of the word, deserves a better name,
+as it is the prettiest promenade in the States.
+It contains about seventy-five acres, disposed in
+a sloping direction from north to south, varied by
+other eminences, of which the most conspicuous
+is formed by the not yet quite levelled remains
+of the British fortifications of 1775. It is surrounded
+by trees, and the best houses in Boston;
+some of them being large and handsome, and
+not the less deserving of the epithet because
+they are of a stone colour, or any other than
+that of red brick. But at Boston generally I
+observed greater taste in this respect than in
+any other of the cities which I visited. On one
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span>side of the Common is a mall, or promenade,
+formed by parallel avenues of fine elm trees;
+but yet, notwithstanding the beauty of its situation,
+it is deserted by the Boston belles for the
+gay glitter of the fashionable shops in Cornhill
+or Washington street.</p>
+
+<p>To the best of my recollection, every capitol
+or state-house that I have seen, or of which I
+have seen a picture, is surmounted by a dome
+or cupola,—that of Boston is particularly conspicuous;
+but the smoothness of its exterior is
+but ill assorted with the richness of the Corinthian
+columns in the facade: it should be grooved like
+the dome of St. Paul’s. The present heavy
+appearance of the cupola at Washington would
+be very much improved if it were altered in
+a similar manner.</p>
+
+<p>The capitol at Boston contains a very fine
+statue of Washington, by Chantrey. From the
+top is obtained a fine panoramic view of the
+whole city, with the bay, its islands, and their
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span>fortifications; its bridges, wharfs, and enormous
+warehouses. On the north is the memorable
+Bunker’s Hill, with part of the fine obelisk that
+is to be; the navy-yard, and the suburb of
+Charlestown. The bay of Boston, like that of
+New York, is fondly thought by some of the
+inhabitants of each city to be as fine, if not
+superior in beauty, to that of Naples;—whether
+they have seen it or not, is of little consequence;
+the bay of Boston, with its flat treeless islands
+and headlands, shall be as fine as the bay of
+Naples, and so may it remain!</p>
+
+<p>The city resembles Baltimore more than any
+other in the Union: as a collection of buildings
+it is prettier, but I prefer the environs of
+the latter city, to the more distant hills that
+form the amphitheatre of Boston; which is too
+large to add much effect to the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>Boston contains 70,000 inhabitants, and the
+first bridge and the first canal in the United
+States were constructed there. It appeared to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span>me the neatest city in the Union; and although
+there is no edifice particularly striking, yet
+there are many that are handsome, and there
+is an air of civic importance pervading every
+street in the place, so that the eye does not easily
+detect the absence of any object that is necessary
+to complete the appearance of a place of
+such pretensions as Boston. The Fauneuil Hall,
+named after the founder, who lived a hundred
+years ago, must not be forgotten. It is the
+cradle of American liberty; because, within its
+walls, were held and heard the consultations
+and the eloquence of those who more than fifty
+years back were first aroused to resentment and
+resistance by the obstinacy of the government
+of England. It contains an original full-length
+portrait of Washington in his regimentals, by
+Stewart. The figure is excellent, but the horse
+is very indifferently executed. The other ornaments
+in the hall, are emblematical of the purposes
+to which it is applied. Public meetings
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span>and dinners are held there, and the company
+usually leave behind them the decorations that
+have been mottoed for the occasion. The name
+of “Skrzynecki” was very conspicuous, among
+a multitude of others.</p>
+
+<p>Societies have always been in vogue among
+the young Bostonians. The objects of some of
+them are ridiculous enough. Many years ago
+a sum of 500<i>l.</i> was raised by subscription for the
+purpose of converting the Jews in England. At
+a much later period, a self-constituted college of
+young fellows sent a diploma to the Emperor
+of Russia; another gang, who called themselves
+“the Peace Society,” sent a deputation to
+the same august personage, requesting him to
+become a member. His answer was very gracious,
+and was accompanied by a valuable diamond
+ring. A Massachusett’s farmer, hearing
+of this, immediately packed up and dispatched
+to him an enormous turnip (“considerable vegetable”)
+as a specimen of American agricultural
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span>produce. He received no diamond ring; which
+was not a fair return, as it was quite reasonable
+to suppose that, as of yore, the head of a “noble
+Swede” would not be an unacceptable present
+to the Autocrat. A pair of colours, which ought
+to have been worked by the fair hands of the
+Boston belles, were lately forwarded to the Poles
+through the hands of General Lafayette; and
+before I quitted the United States, a meeting
+favourable to the Poles was held at New Orleans,
+and “an army in disguise,” consisting of no less
+than twenty-nine volunteers, was waiting at New
+York in order to sail to their assistance. The
+delay, I understood, had arisen on account of a
+dispute as to the place of embarkation, because,
+in case of their triumphant return, the city that
+last held them would be entitled to the whole
+honour of the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>I was present at a meeting in the Fauneuil
+Hall, held for the purpose of adopting resolutions,
+and electing representatives to attend the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span>grand meeting on the Tariff question, which was
+held on the 26th of October, at New York.</p>
+
+<p>The literary institutions at Boston are very
+numerous, and the number of booksellers’ shops
+is quite surprising. Upwards of 60,000 dollars
+are annually expended in public education, and
+perhaps an additional 150,000 may be the amount
+laid out in private establishments. There are
+fourteen infant schools in the city, and sixty
+primary schools affording the means of education
+to about 4000 children. The next in order are
+the grammar-schools and the Latin school, from
+which the boys are qualified to go to Cambridge
+(Harvard) university. Upon entering the infant
+schools, the first questions I chanced to hear
+were very national, characteristic, and amusing.
+“When goods are brought into a country, what
+do you call it?—Importing goods! and when
+goods are taken out of a country, what do you
+call it?—Exporting goods!” with a most joyous
+and tumultuous emphasis upon the distinguishing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span>syllable of either answer. Cambridge, or Harvard
+University is about three miles from Boston,
+and situated within a large enclosure. The
+centre building, amongst several others detached,
+and standing apart, is of stone, and contains
+the lecture and dining rooms, and a library of
+37,000 volumes, the best in America. I was
+shown nothing remarkable in it, excepting a
+valuable manuscript of the aphorisms of Hippocrates.
+I also saw the apartment containing the
+philosophical apparatus, and another in which
+there was a very good collection of minerals.
+I could not refrain from a hearty laugh at the
+contents of a paper which was wafered on the
+outer door of the library, and which I was
+malicious enough to copy whilst the librarian
+was absent in search of the keys. “Missing,
+the first and second volumes of the catalogue of
+books in the library of Harvard university! If
+the person who borrowed will return them immediately
+to their place on the table, he will
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span>oblige all those who have occasion to consult
+them, and no questions will be asked.”—(<i>Signed
+by the Librarian</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The whole annual expenses of an undergraduate
+do not amount to more than 250 dollars;
+for this he is boarded, and instructed by the
+lectures of different professors on every subject,
+from divinity to “obstetrics” and medical jurisprudence.
+Christianity is respected and promoted
+in its broadest sense, not according to the
+tenets of any particular sect: the professor of
+divinity being obliged to declare his belief in
+the Scriptures, as the only perfect rule of faith
+and manners, and to promise that he will explain
+and open them to his pupils with integrity and
+faithfulness, according to the best light that
+God shall give him, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Massachusetts is the only state of the Union
+in which a legislative jurisdiction is made for
+the support of religion. In every other, a person
+is at liberty to belong to any sect, or none if he
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span>pleases; but in this state the constitution compels
+every citizen to be a member of some religious
+order, or pay for the support of some
+teacher of religion, although in making the
+choice it allows him to follow the bent of his
+own inclinations.</p>
+
+<p>With respect to the salaries of clergymen it
+may be mentioned, that in the large cities they
+vary from one to three thousand dollars, and
+from five hundred to a thousand in the more
+populous country parishes, exclusively of perquisites.
+Every clergyman is paid by his own
+congregation; so that his engagement with them
+is a kind of contract.</p>
+
+<p>At Boston, I attended the Unitarian chapel,
+in order to hear the celebrated Dr. Channing,
+whose preaching was so popular during his residence
+in London a few years ago. His language
+was very fine, his accent purely English, and
+his manner more subdued than that of American
+preachers in general, who are usually too
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span>oratorical to be impressive. I was fortunate in
+hearing an exposition of his doctrine. He considered
+Christianity as only a kindred light to
+nature and reason; that the germs or seeds of
+the different excellences in the character of
+Christ were to be found in the bosom of every
+man, but that he alone possessed them in an
+eminent degree; and that the doctrine of the
+atonement had its foundation in the fears of
+guilty mankind, &amp;c. &amp;c. The extraordinary
+eloquence of the preacher did not however
+make me a convert to his tenets; yet it riveted
+my attention for more than an hour, and I
+came away with the impression that he was
+one of the very finest preachers I had ever
+heard; although I was not shaken in the
+conviction, that where there is no settled form
+of prayer, the principal part of the service must
+necessarily be the sermon, and that the sermon,
+if it be at all worth hearing, instead of containing
+religious admonition, is usually filled
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span>with a discussion on controverted points of
+doctrine.</p>
+
+<p>The medical college at Boston is a department
+of Harvard university. There has been
+and still is, as in England, a difficulty in obtaining
+subjects for dissection in the United States.
+It is remedied by different laws in different
+states: the more usual provision being, that the
+bodies of persons who die in almshouses, or by
+the hands of the executioner, or who are unknown,
+shall be given up for that purpose.</p>
+
+<p>When at Boston, I was favoured with the
+sight of an admirable picture just finished by Mr.
+Alston; the scene being taken from Mrs. Radcliffe’s
+novel of the Italian, where the assassin,
+who is obliged to commit murder at the instigation
+of the monk, is terrified by the fancied
+apparition of a bleeding hand. The monk, with
+a stronger intellect and more determined purpose,
+is raising the lamp that he may be enabled
+to see more clearly into the darkness of the vault.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span>A better flame and a more murky atmosphere
+were never painted. The outline of the figures
+is extremely good, and the terror in the countenance
+of the murderer is finely contrasted with
+the cool, stern, and incredulous gaze of the
+monk.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Alston, who is the first, if not the only
+historical painter in America, has been employed
+for many years upon a very large picture, which
+is not to be seen by any one till finished. The
+subject is Belshazzar’s Feast; and the figures
+are as large as life. He intends to rest his
+reputation on the success of this painting, which
+will not see the light till he himself is perfectly
+satisfied with it. Many parts of it are said to
+have been repeatedly altered. On one occasion
+when it was threatened by fire, Mr. Alston requested
+a particular friend to assist him in its
+removal, but made him walk with his back towards
+the picture, that he might not catch a
+glimpse of it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span></p>
+
+<p>Lowell, the Manchester of America, is
+twenty-seven miles from Boston, and may be
+visited in the way from Burlington to Boston.
+Twelve years ago there was scarcely a house in
+the place; and only eight years ago it formed
+part of a farming town, which was thought singularly
+unproductive, even in the midst of the
+sterile and rocky region with which it is surrounded.
+At present it contains 8000 people,
+who are all more or less connected with the
+manufactories; and thirty-three large wheels,
+which are the movers of all the machinery in
+the place, are turned by means of canals supplied
+by the prodigious water-power contained
+in the rapid stream of the Merrimack river.
+There is no steam-power there, and consequently
+little or no smoke is visible, and every thing
+wears the appearance of comfort and cleanliness.
+At present there are 50,000 cotton-spindles in
+operation at Lowell, besides a satinet and carpet
+manufactory. A good English carpet weaver
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span>who understands his business, may earn a dollar
+a-day; but the calico weaving is chiefly performed
+by females, whose general neatness of
+appearance reflects the greatest credit upon
+themselves and their employers. No less than
+40,000 additional spindles had been contracted
+for, and workmen were employed upon them
+in the large building called the machine-shop,
+which of itself is well worth the attention of
+the traveller. The vast buildings belonging to
+the Merrimack and Hamilton companies, are very
+conspicuous from the road by which the town is
+approached from Boston, particularly the latter,
+which are ranged along the side of the canal.
+As yet there is, I believe, no linen manufactory
+in the United States. Lowell contains the most
+extensive cotton-works; but as a manufacturing
+town merely, its population and business are
+perhaps trebled at Pittsburg on the Ohio. The
+scenery about Lowell is not deficient in interest
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span>and beauty, but it scarcely merits further description.</p>
+
+<p>The prices of provisions at Boston for the
+last two or three years have been as follows:
+the best beef has sold at eight or ten cents
+(nearly five-pence halfpenny) the pound; mutton
+from six to eight cents: venison from ten to
+twenty-five cents; salmon from ten to twelve
+cents, and other fish from two to four cents.
+Butter from fourteen to sixteen cents; cheese
+fourteen and a half; coffee from thirteen to
+fourteen cents. Tea of course varies in price
+according to its quality; the best tea in all
+the larger cities selling from about one dollar
+and a quarter to two dollars a pound. Before
+the East India Company entered into the Canada
+tea trade, the colonies were supplied from
+the United States. But now the course of
+smuggling, which from the nature of the country
+it is morally impossible to prevent, is decidedly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span>in favour of the Canadas. The duties on tea
+in the United States have been reduced nearly
+fifty per cent, since the 31st of December, 1831;
+but still the duties in the Canadas are very
+much lower; the best gunpowder tea, for instance,
+paying a duty of twenty-five cents, whilst
+in the Canadas it pays but four pence, and
+hyson tea paying a duty of eighteen cents in the
+United States, and but sixpence in the Canadas,
+&amp;c. The Americans have petitioned for a further
+reduction in the duties; but it appears that
+none will be made as yet. If the American
+government would allow the tariff duties and
+the national debt to expire at the same time,
+it is not difficult to foresee, that as it is the
+amount of duties which governs the trade, the
+provinces would again be supplied from the
+United States, unless the British government
+should lower their duties also; and then if this
+were to be done, and the United States and the
+Canadas were on the same footing, as the East
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span>India Company are supposed to purchase their
+teas as cheaply as they can be purchased, no
+fear need be entertained by the Canadas that
+any advantage will be gained over the British
+trade with regard to the expenses of importation.
+And in addition to this, the rapid means of communication
+with the Upper Province, afforded
+by the Rideau canal, will, it is supposed, bid
+defiance to hurtful competition on the part of
+the Americans, when either the time or the
+cost of conveyance is considered. The course
+of the tea trade between the United States and
+the Canadas has been so much in favour of the
+British colonies, that the East India Company
+intend this year to send out four ships to Quebec
+and Halifax, instead of two as heretofore. Many
+of the old contraband traders have amassed large
+fortunes: the consumer, whether royalist or republican,
+having been by no means averse to
+render assistance where it was obviously for
+his own benefit to do so.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span></p>
+
+<p>At Boston, Philadelphia, and Baltimore,
+house rent is about fifteen per cent. cheaper
+than at New York, where the rent of a good
+house, situated, for instance, on a par with those
+in Gloucester-place in London, would amount
+to one thousand or one thousand two hundred
+dollars a year; but counting-houses and other
+houses taken for their convenient situations with
+reference to commercial purposes, would rent in
+either of the largest cities just mentioned, at a
+higher rate than in London.</p>
+
+<p>The assessment or tax upon houses varies in
+the different cities, from five to eight dollars in
+the thousand.</p>
+
+<p>At Boston, the wages of an in-door male
+servant are from ten to eighteen dollars a month;
+of females from one and a quarter to two dollars
+a week.</p>
+
+<p>The expense of keeping a horse at livery in
+either of the larger cities is about ten dollars
+a month; but if groomed by a gentleman’s own
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span>servant it may be done for half that sum exclusively
+of the groom’s wages. Hay has been
+very abundant in Boston market for the last two
+or three years, and has sold at from ten to fifteen
+dollars the ton. Oats at forty-five to fifty cents
+the bushel, wholesale price.</p>
+
+<p>In Boston a carriage and a pair of horses,
+including the coachman’s wages, &amp;c., may be
+kept at an annual expense of three hundred and
+fifty dollars, about 80<i>l.</i></p>
+
+<p>I shall ever feel grateful for the hospitable
+reception I met with at Boston. The society
+is excellent—the Bostonians more resembling
+the English than the inhabitants of any other
+city I had visited; and the bearing and appearance
+of some of them being so aristocratical that
+they have much ado to keep one another in
+countenance. The governor of Massachusetts
+is entitled “his excellency,” and the lieutenant-governor
+is addressed as “your honour.” The
+belles of Boston dress exceedingly well, better
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">[243]</span>perhaps than any others in the Union; Philadelphia
+and Baltimore not excepted. At New York,
+as I have before remarked, the colours of their
+dresses are far too gaudy, and certainly ill-judged
+as to the manner and the time of wearing them.</p>
+
+<p>I believe that there is in England a very
+mistaken idea of American society; as I have
+frequently been asked, what could not but
+appear to me the most unfair and absurd
+questions on this subject. With us the term
+“yankee” is generally one of ridicule, if not of
+disdain; but to apply it in that sense to all the
+members of society in the United States, is far
+too indiscriminate to be just. There is, as I
+have before remarked, an aristocracy in every
+city in the Union; and, perhaps, as many as
+four or five different sets or circles, notwithstanding
+their boasted equality of condition. As
+far as I have been able to judge from what I
+have seen and heard, the American ladies are
+certainly not (generally speaking) what in England
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">[244]</span>would be called accomplished—in music
+and drawing, for instance: and still fewer of
+them are entitled to the appellation of “a blue;”
+but if exceedingly pretty features, elegant dress
+and manners, and agreeable and sprightly conversation
+are to have the same weight with us
+in forming an opinion of the state of society in
+America, that we should allow to them if speaking
+of society in England, I cannot but affirm
+that the refinement of first circles in the larger
+American cities is very far advanced, and much
+farther than it has credit for in England. Gentlemen,
+who are such from feeling, from habit, and
+from education, are to be met with in every part
+of the States; men who are quite distinct from
+the tobacco-chewing, guessing, calkilating, fixing,
+locating, expecting, and expectorating yankee,
+whose very twang, even in the merriest moments,
+has something in it that is absolutely provoking
+to the ear of an Englishman, and in whose presence
+one is often tempted to exclaim, “Be
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">[245]</span>their constitution what it may, for heaven’s sake
+let us have something gentleman-like!”</p>
+
+<p>I would here earnestly recommend every
+traveller in the States, never to leave any thing
+to be done by another which he can reasonably
+do for himself; and never to defer any arrangement
+which had better be made over night, in
+the expectation that all will go smoothly in the
+morning, unless of course he have with him
+a confidential European servant. With ordinary
+care there is not much fear of losing any
+thing by theft; but the Yankees are often as
+careless of the property of others, as they are
+careful of their own. Above all things, let him,
+as “Bob Short” has it, “be sure to keep his
+temper.” Anger is of not the slightest use, and
+a man may as well be out of humour with his
+mantelpiece, as with a Yankee. Independence
+is visible in the countenance both of the Englishman
+and the American: but in the one, it is
+stamped as it should be on the forehead; with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">[246]</span>the other, it is more often entwined in the curl
+of the nether lip. Never take the corner inside
+a coach on a rainy day, you’ll be wet to the
+skin: carefully avoid comparison between any
+thing that is American, and any thing that is
+European, particularly if it should be English.
+I have several times received a friendly caution
+from Americans themselves on this head. There
+are liberal minded men in the States who will
+talk like gentlemen on every subject; but I
+believe there is nothing unjust in the remark
+that jealousy of England and English arts, and
+English improvements, and English manufactures,
+may be reasonably classed as the most
+prominent of their national failings,—and that
+out of what may be designated as steam-boat
+acquaintance, there are not fifty men, from
+Maine to Louisiana, who can listen to such a
+comparison without biting their lips.</p>
+
+<p>I left Boston, as I did Baltimore with regret,
+and proceeded to Providence, the capital of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">[247]</span>Rhode Island. In the way, I passed through
+Pawtucket, a very considerable manufacturing
+town on the banks of the Blackstone river.</p>
+
+<p>Providence contains nearly 20,000 inhabitants,
+several manufactures, and some exceedingly
+good private houses. In the neighbourhood,
+by the assistance of a friend, I procured
+some excellent woodcock shooting. Upon my
+return, I chanced to be standing with my gun
+in my hand near the bar of the inn, when a
+very decent looking American cooly removed
+a cigar from his mouth, and most civilly addressed
+me with, “Well, stranger! how do you
+prosper in gunning?”</p>
+
+<p>At Providence I embarked for New York in
+the splendid steam-boat, the President, passing
+by Newport, a large and populous place, much
+resorted to on account of the sea breeze, which
+is said to be cool and refreshing during the
+greatest heats of summer. The Providence river
+is one of the finest harbours in the Northern
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">[248]</span>States, and the best station for ships of war; as
+a junction could be effected with a fleet from the
+Chesapeake in less than forty hours, with the
+same wind that would be adverse to a ship sailing
+from Boston harbour, and would perhaps
+prevent a junction in less than ten days: the
+next morning I found myself once more at New
+York—standing just where it did when I first
+left it; and after the lapse of a day, I embarked
+in a steam-boat to proceed up the North or Hudson’s
+river. The extreme rapidity with which
+we were hurried through the water soon carried
+me into the midst of the most superb river
+scenery I had yet beheld in America. I congratulate
+myself upon having deferred this excursion
+to the end of my tour instead of seeing
+it at first, and would recommend every traveller
+to do the same, because all that will be seen
+afterwards of the same description will probably
+lose by a comparison. The western bank soon
+presents a perpendicular of trap-rock, so denominated
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">[249]</span>on account of its basaltic formations and
+general appearance, “the palisades,” continuing
+for nearly twenty miles along the river, and
+forming a natural wall or precipice, which varies
+from twenty feet to 500 feet in height, nor is
+the elevation sensibly diminished by the great
+width of the stream. On the east or opposite
+bank, at a distance of twenty-five miles from
+New York, my attention was excited by the
+beautiful situation of a small village embosomed
+in woods and still farther concealed by a projecting
+headland. Upon inquiry I found it was
+Tarrytown, where Major Andrè was made prisoner,
+and its appearance immediately became
+doubly interesting. Whether he was or was
+not a spy, cannot, I think, be determined without
+an answer to the inquiry, “suppose he had
+succeeded?”—but whether the cause of freedom
+would have thriven the worse for the generous
+dismissal of a noble-minded enemy, or whether
+the memory of Washington would have descended
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">[250]</span>to posterity the less untarnished in consequence
+of such an action, are questions which
+are still less problematical. Major Andrè was
+executed at Tappan, on the other side of the
+river, standing on the boundary line between
+the states of New York and New Jersey.</p>
+
+<p>The penitentiary at Sing Sing, is the next
+object of attraction; it is built by the convicts
+themselves, in the shape of a rectangle, 40 feet
+by 480. The system of solitary confinement
+adopted there, is the same as that of Auburn
+in the western part of the state of New York.
+The prisoners are confined separately, and are
+brought out to work together in the lime-stone
+quarries immediately adjoining the prison, but
+are never allowed to utter a syllable to each
+other. It would appear that under all circumstances
+this system is not more likely to prevent
+crime, than that which is pursued in Philadelphia;
+and on the other hand, with regard to
+the reformation of a prisoner in after life, I
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">[251]</span>should humbly conceive the latter mode to be
+preferable; because as one prisoner is never seen
+by another, it is very clear he cannot be recognized,
+but can commence a new life without
+risking a sneer from a former companion in confinement.</p>
+
+<p>I had lately enjoyed the agreeable society
+of two French gentlemen, who were travelling
+for the French government, with instructions to
+visit the different prisons in the United States
+in which the system of solitary confinement was
+adopted, with a view of ascertaining whether it
+was practicable in France. They informed me,
+that as far as they had seen, they were of opinion
+that the system could be adopted, were it not for
+the expense to be incurred in those alterations
+which would be necessary. A criminal condemned
+to imprisonment in France is turned in
+amongst a number of other persons, is fed during
+the period of his detention, and comes out of the
+prison just as he entered it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">[252]</span></p>
+
+<p>We soon came in sight of Westpoint, at
+the commencement of “the Highlands,” and
+the most beautiful part of the river. This spot
+was selected in the year 1802, as the site of the
+military college of the United States. The
+buildings connected with the establishment are
+situated on a small plain, elevated about 160
+feet above the surface of the river. The venerable
+ruins of Fort Portnam, are conspicuously
+perched upon an eminence 440 feet higher; but
+the ascent is still continued behind them. The
+whole of the ground belongs to government,
+the immediate vicinity of the college being
+within the jurisdiction of the courts of the United
+States.</p>
+
+<p>The dress and appearance of the cadets is
+extremely neat; consisting of a slightly braided
+jacket, and trowsers of grey cloth: their number
+is about two hundred and sixty. The academic
+staff is composed of thirty-three officers, and
+gentlemen who act as professors and assistant
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span>professors. The cadets are instructed in almost
+every branch of science, but in no language,
+excepting French. They are publicly examined
+every year, in the presence of fifteen visiters,
+who are invited to attend, and have an allowance
+made them for their travelling expenses. Amongst
+other places, I visited the drawing academy, and
+another apartment, in which were several cadets
+studying fortification. When there, I could not
+avoid remarking that on one of the tables, by
+the side of the drawing utensils, lay a half demolished
+roll of tobacco. The disgusting habit
+of chewing tobacco is common in every part of
+America; even the men in the upper classes are
+not entirely free from it: but it surely might be
+discontinued (by express prohibition, if necessary)
+by the officers and cadets of the most
+gentlemanly establishment in the Union, and
+against which, laughable as it may appear, objections
+have been raised on account of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span>aristocratical ideas which the young men bring
+with them into society.</p>
+
+<p>The annual expenses of each cadet, do not
+exceed three hundred and fifty dollars. He
+is examined at the expiration of four years: if
+he does not pass, he is allowed another year of
+grace. There are usually on the average about
+a hundred candidates for admission on the list,
+and about thirty are annually accepted: a preference
+being given to the sons of revolutionary
+officers, or of those who served in the last war.
+Out of the whole number admitted, I was informed
+that more than half of them leave the
+college from incapacity, disorderly behaviour, or
+other reasons, before their time has expired; and
+that about one-fourth of them usually take their
+leave within a year after the commencement of
+their studies. Every cadet must have attained
+the age of fourteen before admittance, and is
+originally intended for the army; but in the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span>event of his not getting a commission, the education
+he has received, amidst the present and
+universal confusion of rail-roads and water-powers,
+will ensure him three dollars a day for
+his services as a civil engineer. The cadets
+form on parade every day at one hour before
+sunset, and have a very soldier-like appearance,
+occasionally practising the guns at a target on
+the opposite side of the river. The band,
+towards the maintenance of which each cadet
+contributes twenty-five cents a month, is said to
+be the best in the States. If a young man does
+not distinguish himself, he will probably remain
+in the ranks of the cadet corps during the four
+years of his probation; but if he display more
+than ordinary abilities, he may become a corporal
+after the first, and a sergeant after the second
+year; and may subsequently get his commission
+as second lieutenant in the army.</p>
+
+<p>Kosciusko served in the American ranks
+during the war of Independence. His cenotaph
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span>is a very conspicuous object at Westpoint; and
+at a picturesque spot which he is said to have
+frequented, and is known by the name of Kosciusko’s
+Garden: a small fountain, regarded at
+this time with peculiar reverence, bubbles up
+through a plain marble slab, and trickles over
+the letters of his name, as if it wept its all to his
+memory.</p>
+
+<p>Cannon are cast at the foundry on the east
+side of the river, nearly opposite to Westpoint.
+On that side also, a mile or two below, is the
+house which was occupied by Arnold when he
+was carrying on his traitorous correspondence
+with the British officers. The spot where he
+held his conference with Major Andrè, is overshadowed
+by a small grove of trees, easily distinguished
+by their superior height. I understood,
+at Westpoint, that General La Fayette
+during his visit in 1824, had said he was dining
+with Arnold, when he received from Major
+Andrè the letter which informed him of his
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span>capture, and that Arnold immediately made
+some excuse for leaving the table, and escaped,
+as is well known, by running down a very steep
+bank, and ordering some boatmen to row him to
+the British sloop of war which brought Major
+Andrè, and was then lying in the river awaiting
+his return.</p>
+
+<p>The American musquet carries but eighteen
+balls to the pound. The charge of powder is
+also proportionably less. A general officer who
+served in the last war, informed me that having
+observed the shoulders of the British prisoners,
+he frequently found them black for a month
+after their capture; and not being satisfied with
+the smallness of the charge of powder which had
+been already diminished by an order from the
+American head-quarters, he himself, then a
+colonel, went round to every man in his regiment,
+previously to an engagement, to see that it
+was still further reduced according to his own
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span>order. The men were thus convinced of the
+necessity of reserving their fire, and of taking
+a steady aim, so that, perhaps, one shot in ten
+took effect, instead of one in sixty; the number
+usually allowed in European warfare. He also
+informed me, that during the obscurity of the
+night, and the confusion which took place at the
+battle of Lundy’s-lane, he observed a regiment
+forming on his flank, and being unable to discern
+immediately whether they were British or Americans,
+he jumped upon the top of a fence for a
+better view, and immediately became a mark
+for a volley of British musquetry, of which every
+shot passed over his head. This no doubt was
+partly caused by the old method of “making
+ready;” in consequence of which the musquet
+was frequently discharged before it was brought
+to the shoulder, from the perpendicular position
+in which it was held. The British troops suffered
+more severely than they otherwise would
+have done on account of the colour of their
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span>uniforms, the least portion of which so easily
+exposed them to the rifle of the back-woods
+man.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after quitting Westpoint we passed
+the town of Newburg, leaving the <ins class="corr" id="TN-7" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: Catshill mountains">Catskill
+mountains</ins> on our left. I did not visit the hotel
+at the top of them, as the season was too far
+advanced, and everybody had left it. The view
+from it is said to be, and must be, magnificent.
+We then arrived at Albany, which has been for
+thirty years the capital of the state of New
+York; it is a handsome and thriving city, containing
+about 20,000 inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>Every traveller should contrive to be at
+Albany on Sunday morning, in order that he
+may proceed to Shaker’s town, about eight miles
+distant, and attend the public worship of the
+sect. At Lebanon, in the same state, there is a
+larger establishment, but it is more out of the
+way. Their mode of worship is certainly the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span>most extraordinary that is adopted in any Christian
+community. About fifty men and fifty
+women were arranged <i>en masse</i> with their faces
+towards each other, and with an intervening
+space of about ten feet. The service commenced
+by an elder coming forward between them, and
+delivering a few words of exhortation. Several
+others followed his example at intervals during
+the service; one, more eloquent than the rest,
+who was descanting on the proper government
+of the passions and the abuse of talent, thought
+fit to illustrate his argument by a quotation from
+Gay’s fable of “The Grecian youth of talents
+rare.” Hymns were then sung by them in their
+places, each of them shaking the whole time.
+They then performed a regular dance, holding
+hands, advancing and retiring, to a most uproarious
+tune, sung by a few of them formed in
+a small circle, who gave the words and the tune
+to the others as they afterwards paraded in pairs
+around the room, singing very loudly the whole
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span>time—hopping heavily, first on one foot, then on
+the other—flapping their hands the whole time
+before them, with their elbows stuck into their
+sides, and looking for all the world like so many
+penguins in procession. It was not till the end
+of the service that they all fairly fell on their
+knees, and sung a hymn, as if they were asking
+pardon for their vagaries.</p>
+
+<p>I really think I had never seen such a curious
+collection of heads and features: the chin and
+lower part of the face were generally very small,
+giving to some an appearance that was perfectly
+idiotic, whilst others displayed a more subdued
+modification of that wildness of gaze which
+might have distinguished the fanatic companions
+of Balfour o’ Burley: but there was scarcely
+one among them, either male or female, whose
+features were not remarkable on one account
+or other.</p>
+
+<p>From Albany I proceeded to Schenectady,
+in the rail-road carriage, which whirled me forward
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span>with a rapidity very little inferior to that
+with which I had been carried between Liverpool
+and Manchester, but by no means so silently
+or so smoothly, as the rattling was very loud.
+Thence I went to Utica, a town that at present
+contains 10,000 inhabitants, but intends at some
+future period to be the capital of the state of
+New York. Its pretensions are founded on its
+present prosperity, arising from the Erie canal,
+which passes through it in its way from Albany
+to lake Erie, its central situation, and the gradual
+westward movement of the surplus population
+of the more eastern cities.</p>
+
+<p>From Utica I visited the Trenton falls,
+fifteen miles distant. I was very much disappointed:
+there was not much water in them, and
+they appeared more like artificial cascades than
+a natural cataract. The trout fishing in the
+West Canada creek, on which they are situated,
+is, I conceive, the best recommendation for a
+visit to the Trenton falls. Possibly Niagara had
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span>spoiled me for every waterfall. It is, I think,
+the author of the “Diary of an Invalid,” who
+remarks that having seen St. Peter’s, he should be
+contented with his parish church ever afterwards.
+I thence proceeded to Saratoga, the Cheltenham
+of America: but the company which throng
+to it from all parts of the Union, being its only
+attraction, and the season being over, I passed
+through it without stopping there more than an
+hour. The vicinity of Ballston Springs, which
+are near it, are much prettier. The waters of
+both are saline and chalybeate at the same time.
+The guide books are so filled with accounts of
+the marches, counter marches, successes, distresses,
+and final surrender of General Burgoyne,
+that I make no apology for merely remarking,
+that he surrendered to the American General
+Gates at Schuylersville in the county of Saratoga
+on the 17th of October, 1777. From Saratoga,
+I proceeded to Lake George, passing by Glen’s
+falls, so admirably described in Mr. Cooper’s
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span>novel of the Last of the Mohicans. Unfortunately
+for me the steam-boat on the lake was
+laid up in ordinary, and I was obliged to content
+myself with a ride for a few miles along the
+banks. As far as I could judge, I thought the
+scenery equal to that of the finest of British
+lakes, generally, with the exception of Loch-Lomond.
+It is thirty-six miles long; but it has no
+where the majestic breadth of the famed Scottish
+lake. Its mountains are not so lofty as Ben
+Lomond, and it has not the weeping birch of
+the highlands of Scotland, or the arbutus of
+the lakes of Killarney; but it can boast of an
+unrivalled clearness of water, a most delicious
+perfume from the gum cistus (vulgo, sweet fern)
+which grows abundantly on its margin; and the
+autumnal foliage reflected on its surface is certainly
+far more beautiful and brilliant than any
+thing of the kind that Great Britain can display.
+Cultivation was to be seen in many parts; but
+there were no splendid country seats, and the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span>majestic beauty of this lovely lake must be contented
+to remain destitute of those unrivalled
+ornaments, so long as democracy holds sway over
+the mountains that surround it.</p>
+
+<p>At the head of the lake stands the village
+of Caldwell, and near it are the ruins of Fort
+George and Fort William. It would far exceed
+the limits of this work, were I to take notice of
+the numerous battles that have been fought during
+the last eighty years in the vicinity of Lake
+George; for an account of the massacre that
+took place after the surrender of Fort William-Henry,
+by Major Monroe, to the French troops
+under the command of the Marquis of Montcalm
+in 1757, I will again with pleasure refer you to
+the “Last of the Mohicans.”</p>
+
+<p>I should mention that there is excellent bass
+fishing in the lake, and that all necessary information
+&amp;c. may be obtained at the lake tavern
+at Caldwell. The bass is taken with a spinning
+minnow, and when hooked affords for a short
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span>time, even more sport than a salmon; but is
+much sooner exhausted.</p>
+
+<p>Sandy Hill was my next destination. In
+my way, I passed over the ground where General
+Burgoyne surrendered, and in a few hours
+again entered a steam-boat, at Albany, with the
+intention of returning, for the last time, to New
+York.</p>
+
+<p>Before I went to America, I had no idea in
+how short a time a meal could be dispatched;
+but to see “bolting” in perfection, it is necessary
+to go on board an Albany steam-boat. The
+cabin is cleared as much as possible, the breakfast
+is laid, and the free negro stewards are
+placed as guards at the top of the stair-case, to
+prevent any gentleman from walking in before
+the bell rings. As the hour draws near, conversation
+is gradually suspended, and the company
+look as if they were all thinking of the
+same subject. Groups of lank thin-jawed personages
+may be seen “progressing” towards
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span>the door, and “locating” themselves around it,
+in expectation of the approaching rush, listening
+to the repeated assurances of the black stewards
+within, that no gentleman can by any possibility
+be admitted before the time. At length the bell
+rings, and the negro guards escape as they can;
+if they are not brisk in their motions, they stand
+a chance of being sent headlong down stairs, or
+jammed in between the wall and the opened
+doors. In less than a quarter of a minute,
+150 or 200 persons have seated themselves at
+table, and an excellent breakfast of tea, coffee,
+eggs, beefsteaks, hot rolls, corn cakes, salted
+mackerel, mush, molasses, &amp;c. is demolished
+in an incredibly short space of time. The
+crowd then slowly re-ascends the staircase—and
+three-fourths of them are quite surprised that
+they should be afflicted with dyspepsia! The
+music which usually accompanied the feasts of
+the ancients, will never be revived by the Americans
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span>who are more likely to exclaim in the
+beautiful language of Euripides,</p>
+
+<p class="poetry noindent">
+  Σκαιοὺς δε λεγων, κοὺδὲν τι σοφοὺς,<br>
+  Τοὺς προσθε βροτους, ουκ ἄν ἁμάρτοις,<br>
+  Οἵτινες ὕμνους επὶ μὲν θαλίαις,<br>
+  Επὶ τ’ εἰλαπίναις, καὶ παρὰ δείπνοις<br>
+  Εὕροντο, βίου τερπνὰς ακοάς.<br>
+</p>
+<hr class="tb">
+<p class="poetry">
+  <span style="margin-left: 6.0em;">ἵνα δ εὔδειπνοι</span><br>
+  Δαῖτες, τι μάτην τείνουσι βοάν<br>
+  Τὸ παρὸν γαρ ἔχει τέρψιν ὰφ’ αυτοῦ<br>
+  Δαιτὸς πλήρωμα βροτοῖσιν.
+</p>
+
+<hr class="r5">
+
+<p>Whilst I remained at New York, I employed
+my time in visiting the dock-yard, the race-ground
+on Long Island, and other places which
+I had left unseen. The race-ground is inclosed
+with a high paling, and although well kept, is
+not on so large a scale as might be expected.</p>
+
+<p>The Americans believed that their horse,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span>Eclipse, was faster than his celebrated English
+ancestor, till a paper appeared in their Sporting
+Magazine, proving that had they run together,
+their horse, which is undoubtedly a very good one,
+particularly up hill, would have been thoroughly
+beaten. They have a mare, named, I believe,
+Arietta, which is said to be exceedingly fast for
+a mile, and is coming to England, to try her
+speed at Newmarket.</p>
+
+<p>The Americans boast that they are able to
+raise an army of cavalry at a moment’s notice;
+and they refer you to the backwoods, and tell
+you that a boy can ride almost as soon as he
+can walk. This is true enough of their riding
+to plough, or to church, or along the road; but
+I do not remember to have seen a horse take a
+leap in the United States but once,—and he
+had no rider on his back. It is very rarely that
+an American is seen with a good seat on horseback.
+I should say, generally, that the Americans
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span>were bad riders, excepting the New
+Yorkers,—and they are Americans. I think
+<i>they</i> are the worst I ever saw. They have
+neither a military seat nor a fox-hunting seat,
+nor a Turkish seat, nor even what Geoffrey
+Gambado would term “the mistaken notion;” but
+they ride up and down the Broadway with the
+toe almost invariably very much below the heel;
+and the back and shoulders, like the “genteel
+and agreeable” of the same author, of course
+inclined forward: at the same time it must be
+confessed, that as they have neither cavalry nor
+fox-hunting, it is not surprising that they cannot
+ride.</p>
+
+<p>I witnessed an extraordinary exhibition, purporting
+to be a burlesque upon the militia
+system, and got up with no inconsiderable share
+of humour. A person on horseback, masked, in
+the uniform of Napoleon, wearing a small figure
+of him on either shoulder, and carrying an enormous
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span>tin sword, headed a band of ragamuffins,
+habited as their wit and ingenuity dictated to
+them. Pasteboard, pumpkins, spits, and hay-bands,
+with a hundred other things of the same
+kind, being put in requisition to aid the spirit of
+buffoonery, and assist in ridiculing the militia.
+The only motto among the many that was good
+and pointed, was “soldiers in peace, citizens in
+war.” But the whole scene, although acted on
+a less serious occasion, was worthy the days of
+Anacharsis Klootz.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot forbear to relate an instance of that
+mock modesty of which the Americans are sometimes
+accused. I was at a ball, and was guilty
+of joining in a quadrille. When the time for
+the “dos a dos” arrived, I advanced to perform
+that part of the figure in the same manner as I
+should have done at a ball in England; but I
+found that the lady, who was dancing opposite
+to me, receded instead of coming forward, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span>my movement had attracted considerable attention.
+I felt that I had committed some error,
+and my partner, who had travelled a great deal
+in Europe and had often danced quadrilles in
+France and England, kindly hinted to me, with
+a slight archness of smile, that I had made a
+mistake.—“We do not dance the dos a dos
+here; we have left off that part of the figure!”</p>
+
+<p>Two circumstances contributed to render my
+voyage home agreeable: one was, that I sailed
+in the splendid new ship the “North America;”
+the other, that she was commanded by Captain
+Macy. As the steam-boat slowly towed us from
+the wharf, I felt gratified and grateful for the
+kindness I had met with in America; and I unhesitatingly
+affirm, that if an Englishman be
+treated otherwise it must be his own fault. I
+looked at the retiring city: I thought the houses
+were not so very red, after all; and I tried to
+persuade myself that the bay of New York was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span>as beautiful as the bay of Naples: but I found
+that I could not show my gratitude at the expense
+of what appeared to me to be the truth;
+namely, that it is and must ever remain very far
+inferior. Partiality is apt to elicit some very
+contrary opinions. The New Yorkers think
+their bay equal in beauty to the bay of Naples:
+when the Dutch had possession of the country,
+they called it the New Netherlands. But these
+are trifles, and as such I hope they are pardonable.</p>
+
+<p>I advise you to go to America: at this period
+there is no country equally interesting, nor one
+so likely to remain so, till it falls to pieces, probably
+within less than half a century, by its own
+weight. If you are an ultra-tory you will, perhaps,
+receive a lesson that may reduce you to
+reason; if you are a radical, and in your senses,
+as an Englishman and a gentleman, you are
+certain of changing your opinions before you
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span>return; and you may prepare yourself accordingly.
+You will be gratified by visiting a land,
+that come what will, must ever remain a land of
+liberty, which the Saxon blood alone is capable
+of enjoying. So little, it may be remarked, do
+the French understand the term, that it is only
+since the last revolution that they have acquired
+the “droit de l’initiatif,” or the right by which
+any member of the chamber of deputies can
+by himself bring in a bill or “projet de loi,”
+whenever he pleases; a right which the members
+of the house of commons in England may
+be said to have enjoyed for two centuries.
+Previously to the late changes in France, it was
+necessary that a number of members who wished
+to introduce any measure into the chamber,
+should petition the king for leave to do so;
+otherwise, as is well known, it was brought forward
+by the minister alone. You will be gratified
+by seeing so much of what may be termed
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span>the aristocracy of nature in the <ins class="corr" id="TN-8" title="Transcriber's Note&mdash;original text: privmæval">primæval</ins>
+forests, the vast lakes and majestic rivers of North
+America; and still more so by having visited a
+land where man is supposed to be more his own
+master than in any other civilised part of the
+world, and where his energy meets with co-operation
+in the natural resources of the country,
+and commands success at the hands of his fellow
+men. You will then be able to form an opinion
+whether the state of society be more or less
+enviable than that to which you have been
+accustomed; whether the fine arts are more
+likely to flourish; whether men in their public
+or private characters as husbands, as fathers, as
+brothers, as gentlemen, are better, more honest,
+or more amiable than among yourselves; or
+whether the government under which they live
+is more calculated for the encouragement of true
+religion, the shelter of virtue, the enjoyment of
+life and liberty; or, if fair allowance be made
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span>for the advantages incidental to a new country,
+whether it is better adapted for the advancement
+of national prosperity, than the institutions of
+your native land.—Go to America, canvass the
+pretensions of the Americans, and then judge
+for yourself.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">THE END.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">
+  Manning and Co., Printers,<br>
+  4, London House Yard, St. Paul’s.
+</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<div class="transnote" id="transnote">
+TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE<br>
+<br>
+
+Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,
+and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained.<br>
+<br>
+The city of Pittsburgh is spelled as Pittsburg in some instances. This inconsistency was left intact.<br>
+<br>
+Inconsistent hyphenations have been left as is.<br>
+<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-1">48</a>. “antehamber” replaced by “antechamber”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-2">64</a>. “distincts pecies” replaced by “distinct species”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-3">123</a>. “Nigara river” replaced by “Niagara river”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-4">210</a>. “oxtyx virginianus” replaced by “ortyx virginianus”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-5">215</a>. “St Lawrence” replaced by “St. Lawrence”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-6">218</a>. “St Lawrence” replaced by “St. Lawrence”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-7">259</a>. “Catshill mountains” replaced by “Catskill mountains”.<br>
+Page <a href="#TN-8">275</a>. “privmæval” replaced by “primæval”.<br>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78758 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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author	www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org>	2026-05-26 06:28:40 -0700
committer	www-data <www-data@mail.pglaf.org>	2026-05-26 06:28:40 -0700
commit	acd3291e45a6f3044e90c934b491b7c19c31a542 (patch)
tree	4437b8018d0af8fc99baaa0ae8822b9a2afaa71b /78758-h