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diff --git a/78731-0.txt b/78731-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed1bdeb --- /dev/null +++ b/78731-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,18494 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78731 *** + + + + + WITH SCOTT: THE SILVER LINING + + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by Stearn & Sons, Cambridge._] + + SLEDGE-MATES AT CAMBRIDGE, NOVEMBER, 1913. + + (_Standing_) Debenham and Wright of Caius; (_sitting_) Taylor of + Emmanuel and Priestley of Christ’s. +] + + + + + WITH SCOTT: + THE SILVER LINING + + + BY + GRIFFITH TAYLOR, D.SC., ETC. + + + WITH NEARLY 200 ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS + + + LONDON + SMITH, ELDER & CO., 15, WATERLOO PLACE + 1916 + _All rights reserved_ + + + PRINTED BY + WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED + LONDON AND BECCLES + + + + + INTRODUCTION + + +The great adventure of Scott’s last expedition has been given to the +world in the faithful simplicity of the leader’s own words, as they were +set down from day to day. His diaries were but the basis of the book +that should have been written. We have not the half of what he could +have told us. But in another sense, that half is greater than the whole. +Here stand first impressions, not retouched: the ebb and flow of his +hopes and fears, the lights and shadows of the moment, never reviewed in +later perspective after the event; thumbnail sketches of character, +vividly set down; notes of the day which reveal his spirit entering into +the spirit of his men: and at the end, the singleness of heart that +could give all and accept all for one high purpose. I have often liked +to think—surely it is true—that the universal thrill awakened by his +example strung up the soul of the nation unawares for the great call so +soon to be made upon it. + +The other half of the picture has been partly filled in. Others have +given the history of outlying explorations with their tale of human +resource and endurance; they have recorded scientific results or +described special branches of natural history in the Antarctic. +Something, however, is still left to be told. No one will forget Captain +Scott’s almost incredulous delight at the goodwill and harmony of his +little company under the trying conditions of Ross Island. It is for Mr. +Griffith Taylor to tell of the daily life of that company from within, +to tell in careless detail its lighthearted cheerfulness lining solid +effort, which the cloud of English earnestness so constantly turns out +upon the night. + +The “other side of the shield” is too often a byword for irreconcilable +contradictions. It is not so here. The reader is doubly grateful. He is +grateful for the details of the daily round as it passed in the +explorers’ hut; he is grateful for the sense that new testimony only +bears out former report. + +Nor are these personal impressions all, though they extend over a longer +period than that covered in the “Last Expedition.” Mr. Griffith Taylor +also gathers up what has in large measure appeared elsewhere, the story +of his own explorations and much of his general scientific results in +geology and physiography, so that his Antarctic experiences stand +together as a union in thought and action of all that is typified by the +old name and the new, Cambridge and Melbourne, each his Alma Mater. + +The book makes its appearance in the midst of a great war, when books +are too often regarded as a first luxury to be cut off. Nevertheless I +hope that many will be able to find in its pages some refreshment of +mind, some relaxation from the long strain, some strengthening of faith +in the latent spirit of the Greater England which has sent its sons from +the four quarters of the world to stand beside the Old Country in the +hour of destiny. + + LEONARD HUXLEY. + + _February, 1916._ + + + + + CONTENTS + + + I + PAGE + GETTING TO KNOW THE MEN 1 + + II + THE _TERRA NOVA_ GOES SOUTH 19 + i. The Geologists visit the New Zealand Glaciers 21 + ii. Ship Life in Calm and Storm 30 + iii. Learning the Ropes 45 + iv. Blocked by the Pack Ice 56 + v. Through the Ross Sea 79 + vi. Making Winter Quarters at Cape Evans 87 + + III + FIRST WESTERN EXPEDITION, JANUARY–MARCH, 1911 111 + + IV + A MONTH IN THE OLD _DISCOVERY_ HUT, MARCH–APRIL, 1911 187 + + V + IN WINTER QUARTERS WITH CAPTAIN SCOTT, APRIL–NOVEMBER, 1911 211 + + VI + GRANITE HARBOUR EXPEDITION 329 + + VII + THE VOYAGE BACK, FEBRUARY–MARCH, 1912 413 + + VIII + THE END OF THE EXPEDITION 437 + + APPENDIX 449 + INDEX 456 + + + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + FULL PAGE PLATES + FACING PAGE + Sledge-mates at Cambridge _Frontispiece_ + Officers and Crew, Captain Scott’s Antarctic Expedition, + 1910 16 + Icing Ship in the Pack on the Starboard Quarter 61 + The Norwegian Dinghy or Pram retrieving Birds in the + Pack Ice 61 + A Quiet Sunday Evening on the _Terra Nova_ 65 + D. Lillie, Ship’s Biologist 66 + The Northern Fringe of the Pack Ice showing the Wake of + the Ship through Open Pack 66 + Catching the Fish in the Pack 70 + Surveying the North Coast of Ross Island from the _Terra + Nova_ 88 + Photo from the Ship of Cape Evans 88 + The First Hour Ashore 92 + Two Motor Sledges on the Beach at Cape Evans 92 + Photo of the Hut showing the Ramp and Erebus 106 + Penguin Courtship on the Ice-foot near Cape Evans 106 + Ship aground on a Reef off Cape Evans close to the + Tunnel Berg 108 + Griffith Taylor in Summer Rig (on a keen day) on Cape + Evans 108 + Model of Country traversed on First Journey 118 + My First Camp in Antarctica at the Snout of the Ferrar + Glacier 126 + Photo taken just before we packed the Sledges for the + First Sledge Journey 126 + Trying Times on the Koettlitz Glacier 163 + Tables of Ice “Mesas” in the Lower Koettlitz cut out of + Thaw-water 163 + Alph River cutting through the Moraines and Ancient Ice 189 + _Discovery_ Hut 189 + Crater Heights, the Gap and Observation Hill as viewed + from the Old _Discovery_ Hut 196 + Mount Erebus from the Old _Discovery_ Hut 196 + Bowers’ Party adrift on the Sea-ice 198 + Over the Hutton Cliffs to test the Sea-ice 207 + Captain Scott wearing the Wallet in which he carried his + Sledging Journals 214 + Simpson sending up a “Ballon Sonde” 218 + The East Corner of the Hut showing the Eddy Trench + scooped out by Blizzards on the Windward Side of the + Hut 218 + Captain Scott’s Autograph List for the Aurora Watch 226 + Some Antarctic Archives 266 + Snowdrift on Cape Evans, showing the Deep Eddy on the + Windward Side 275 + Debris Cones on Land’s End (one mile south of the Hut) 275 + “Blizzometer Record” during the Search for Atkinson 277 + Lakelets of Cape Evans 296 + A fine Steam Cloud blowing South from Erebus 307 + A Glacieret near Island Lake (C. Evans) due to + Wind-blown Snow 307 + Ice-quakes in the Sea-ice 310 + The Tide-crack at the North-west Corner of Cape Evans 310 + High Cliff and the South End of the Barne Glacier 312 + “The Barrier Silence” 313 + Bernard Day on the Motor Sledge just before he started + for the South 322 + The Start of the Motor Sledges 322 + Wilson packing his Pony Sledge the Day before the Start + for the Pole 327 + The Hut after the Winter 327 + Relief Model of the Region traversed in the Second + Summer 331 + The Second Western Party the Day they were picked up by + the Ship 332 + A Panorama of Cape Roberts, where the Western Party was + isolated for Three Weeks. Looking North 350 + Avalanche Cliffs on the South Side of Granite Harbour 350 + The Field of Crevasses (Skauk) at the Foot of Mackay + Tongue 353 + Granite Hut, Cape Geology 360 + Forde cooking Seal-fry on the Blubber-stove at Cape + Roberts 360 + Heavy Sledging off Mackay Tongue just where we tried to + pack to Land 365 + The “Half-Ton” after Nelson left us off the Mouth of Dry + Valley 365 + A Tight Corner! Crossing the Forty-foot Tide-crack off + Point Disappointment, Granite Harbour 367 + The First Western Party in a Natural Ice-tunnel amid the + Pinnacles of the Koettlitz Glacier 380 + The Second Western Party at Cape Geology, Granite + Harbour, on Christmas Day, 1911 380 + Gran’s Midsummer Bath 392 + The Couloirs of Mount England (which develop into Cwms + later) 392 + The Rush to Safety: over the Edge of the Blue Glacier 411 + Engineer Williams at the Winch 418 + Bernard Day on the Capstan 418 + A. B. Cheetham, who holds the Record for crossing the + Antarctic Circle 426 + G. C. Simpson 426 + A very “Ordinary Seaman” 428 + Pennell on Bridge 428 + Photo of Crew off Akaroa 435 + + ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT + Block Diagrams illustrating the Basins, Gorges, and + Riegel in the Val Ticino below Saint Gothard 9 + Section across Poop of _Terra Nova_ 22 + Harbours visited on the Voyage to New Zealand 24 + The Cuspate Peaks of Mount Cook and the Matterhorn 25 + The Snout of the Tasman Glacier from Sebastopol 26 + Glaciers in New Zealand visited in November, 1910, by + the Geologists 27 + Looking down the Snout of the Mueller Glacier from the + Stocking 28 + Plan of the Deck of _Terra Nova_ 39 + Vertical Section of _Terra Nova_ illustrating Incidents + in the Great Storm, January 2–3, 1911 42 + Figures of Latitude and Longitude 51 + Iceberg Forms 64 + Sounding Apparatus 67 + Course of _Terra Nova_ through the Antarctic Pack as far + as Cape Evans, Dec. 7, 1910–Jan. 4, 1911 77 + Coasting Ross Island, Jan., 1911 81 + Life’s Round in the Antarctic 84 + Cape Evans from Inaccessible Island 90 + Sun-holes 93 + Antarctic Spoor 94 + Iceberg Equilibrium. The Tilting of the Tunnel Berg + during the Winter, 1911 97 + Sketch of Two Grottoes cut in Glacieret near the Hut, + Jan. 15, 1911 102 + Sketch Map of Cape Evans, Jan. 21, 1911 107 + Geological Sketch by Captain Scott 114 + Facsimile (reduced) of Captain Scott’s Sledge + Instructions 122, 123 + Geological “Sandwich” near the Dun and Hedley Glaciers 131 + Moraine Material at the Taylor Glacier, looking West 135 + Crater on the Flank of the Taylor Valley 137 + The Avalanche-fed Lacroix Glacier in the Taylor Valley 140 + Sketch Section across the Taylor Valley at Suess + Glacier, showing the Nussbaum Riegel which bars it 141 + Looking west up the Dry Valley below Taylor Glacier 142 + “The Compleat Explorer” 144 + “Anarthoclase” Felspar 145 + The Age of Rocks above the Taylor Glacier 147 + Plan of the bygone _Twin_ Glaciers of Lake Luzern 149 + The Morphology of Frozen Ski-boots 154 + “My Footgear” 159 + Empty Hanging Valley on the North Wall of the Davis + Glacier 161 + “How Evans won his Bet” 163 + The “Palimpsest” theory. Generalised Sketch Sections + showing the chief types of Valley Erosion 175 + Forks for Blubber 176 + Map showing our Journey round the Breaking Barrier 178 + Sketch Map of the Environs of Hut Point 190 + Plan of the rejuvenated _Discovery_ Hut 191 + The Blubber Stove in the Old _Discovery_ Hut 193 + _Steig-eisen_ 197 + The Sackcloth Helmet 200 + Blubber-Lamp made from Tin Matchbox 201 + Testing the Sea Ice off Castle Rock 205 + From Castle Rock to Cape Evans 206 + The Two Tents on the Ice-shelf at Little Razorback Isle 208 + Plan of Hut, 1911, showing Nicknames and Bunks of + Explorers 212 + The Electrical Breadmaker 216 + Changes in Wind Direction 217 + Simpson’s Clue 218 + Simpson’s Instruments 221 + The Arch Berg before it fell in and became the Castle + Berg 227 + Balloon Meteorograph 234 + Evans teaches us to Cobble 253 + Temperature Curves 255 + Sections of Fossils, Beardmore Glacier 255 + Fossil “Sponge-Coral” from the Beardmore Glacier 256 + Archeocyathinac Marble set in a Ring 257 + Bill’s Nose-nip 262 + A Characteristic Portrait in a Bliz! 263 + Vertical Temperature Gradient in Hut 263 + How we found Midwinter 269 + The Night-Watch Supper 274 + Lost in the Blizzard 276 + The Twin Glaciers 280 + The Future Ice-age 281 + Reversal of the Steam Banner of Erebus 281 + The Mouse-trap Camera 289 + The Wind-ridge on Inaccessible Isle with Tracks 294 + The Dissected Debris Cone 297 + A Peculiar Animal seated on the top of a Debris Cone 298 + Book-plate illustrating Polar Clothing 301 + Robinson Anemometer 306 + Sunshine Recorder 306 + “Taylor’s Patent Heel-tips” 308 + The Waved Edge of Glacier Tongue 316 + The Seal’s Method of rasping away the Ice 317 + “Polar Wireless” 318 + Ice Crampons 323 + Our Water Supply—The Granite Pool at Cape Geology 354 + Gomphocephalus, Antarctic “Springtail” 356 + Pressure-ridges in the Sea-ice looking West from Cape + Geology to the Punch Bowl Cwm 361 + Pulpit Rock, the home of the Sea-kale 370 + Ironclad Boots for Antarctic Geologists 373 + Looking North-west from Cape Geology, showing the + Granite Cliffs of the Kar Plateau capped by dolorite 374 + Gran’s Bête Noire 375 + Sketch Map of Region near the Devil’s Punch Bowl 376 + Mount Suess Nunatak looking West from Redcliff 383 + Sketch Map of Mount Suess Nunatak and Gondola Nunakol 385 + “Erratic” perched on Six Small Stones, Gondola Ridge 387 + Sketch-diagram of South-west Face of Mount Suess, + showing the Fossil-bearing Beacon Sandstones 389 + Gondola Ridge from the top of Mount Suess looking + North-east 391 + Sea-kale at 77° 393 + Flexure in 30 feet Berg, Cape Roberts 403 + Diagram illustrating the Way we managed to “Raise + Anchor” by “Luff upon Luff” 420 + Method of fixing Ice Anchor 421 + Trimming Coal in the Starboard Main Hold 425 + Chart of Bay of Whales 432 + Chart of Parties (Amundsen reaches the Pole) 439 + Chart of Parties (Scott reaches the Pole) 441 + Chart of Parties (the Last Camp) 442 + _Glossopteris_ 444 + + + + + MAPS + + + 1. The Chief Travels of the Sixteen Officers at + Headquarters, Cape Evans, 1911 12 + 2. Map of Antarctica showing Localities of Recent + Expeditions 37 + 3. Map of the Coast from Cape Royds to Hut Point _Facing_ 86 + 4. Physiographic Features of Cape Evans due largely to + the Retreat of the Erebus Glacier 299 + 5. Return Voyage of the _Terra Nova_ in March, 1912 414 + 6. Recent and Future Exploration 450 + 7. Map of the Region traversed on the Western + Journeys, 1911–1912 _At end of text_ + + + + + I + “GETTING TO KNOW THE MEN” + + + + + “GETTING TO KNOW THE MEN” + + +“Where can I find Dr. Wilson?” + +I had just entered the quadrangle of the Biological Schools at +Cambridge, when a door opened quickly, and a well-knit, wiry individual +ran down the steps towards me. + +“Which Dr. Wilson?” said he. + +“Wilson of Antarctica,” I replied. + +With a quizzical smile that I was soon to know well, he returned, “I am +Dr. Wilson.” + +It was in this way that I made the acquaintance of the Scientific +Director of the expedition; and in the ensuing conversation at Christ’s +College I learnt the requirements of Captain Scott. But the steps +leading to this Sunday interview were rather amusing to look back on. + +On a Saturday afternoon of December, 1909, I had been having tea with +Wright of Caius, and we discussed many topics, such as cancer and +Canada, eugenics and Shackleton. He remarked that he would like to go +with Scott next August, and that he would go if I would! However, we did +not discuss this topic, for I left to dress for the Philosophical +Society’s Dinner at John’s. In the old Combination room were most of the +scientific dons, and Dr. Marr beckoned to me. + +“I wanted to see you. Would you like to go with Scott to the Antarctic +as English geologist?” He was pleased to say that my glacial work and +travels suited me for the post. I said I had not thought of it at all. +He added that Dr. Wilson would probably call on me on Sunday, to which I +replied that I had intended to be off to the Alps at 9.30! + +I departed, only to fall into Professor Seward’s hands. He asked the +same question; and Hutchinson of Pembroke came up a moment later and +said, “Don’t you think Taylor ought to go to the Antarctic?” I suggested +that I felt as if I were being pushed out into the cold! + +I postponed my trip to Grenoble for half a day, and had a long talk with +Wilson. He gave me a letter to Captain Scott, which I presented after my +return from France. + +We had a fine trip! Four Australians cycling through the High Alps in +midwinter. When it did not snow it rained—and mostly it did not snow! At +the pass of Croix Haute we had to traverse thirty kilometres of heavy +snow, and later in the Auvergne we found that snow formed quite a good +surface for a bicycle, which discovery nearly led to a fatality in the +Antarctic, as will appear later. + +On my return to London a month later (8th January) I called at the +Antarctic offices and had an interview with Captain Scott. + +I soon gained an insight into the multifarious occupations of a Polar +commander. The offices of the expedition were in Westminster, at 36, +Victoria Street, halfway between the Abbey and the vast railway station +at Victoria. They were situated in a district peculiarly devoted to the +empire’s interests, for most of the colonies have their representatives +there; and that greatest boon to travellers, the Army and Navy Stores, +is just across the way. + +I will try to give some idea of the appearance of the expedition’s +headquarters during the busy months of preparation. In a large room +occasionally sat Captain Scott, but he was usually busy with some +ingenious foodstuffs or patent appliance in one of the other rooms. +Adjacent was the secretary’s office, and there he was to be seen, _inter +alia_, wading through some of the eight thousand applications from eager +souls anxious to get out of the rut by joining the expedition in one +capacity or another. Naturally enough, the names of naval officers were +numerous, both on the staff and among those applying. In fact, the navy +could beat any other team that the expedition could get together at any +game whatsoever. An explorer friend of mine had no great opinion of navy +men, and strongly advised me to learn boxing to uphold the dignity of +science. So I started a boxing club at Cambridge among the scientists, +but we did not know then that navy champions like Parny Rennick and Dr. +Atkinson were to join the expedition. Here let me add that arrogance was +the last attribute of my dear naval friends down South. + +In a third room at headquarters were samples of patent foods. One open +tin discloses shrivelled root-like objects about the size of +lead-pencils. This was desiccated rhubarb, and it seemed merely +concentrated sourness in its present state, though it furnished many +dishes at headquarters later on. Cabbages and greens too much resembled +coarse leaf tobacco to be eulogized by a non-smoker. A Cambridge +friend—doing physiological research—was extremely pleased when he heard +I was going South. “Ah,” said he, “you can try my patent food all next +week; you’ll need nothing else for any of your meals, and I can give you +a full supply for the Antarctic.” Owing to various contingencies, the +tin remained unopened, and I left it, with my blessing, for the +landlady. + +In another corner of the same room an eager inventor is explaining the +excellences of his patent stove, which burns almost without fuel and is +guaranteed “to produce little or no carbon dioxide”! + +Here I first saw Dr. Simpson, who was wrestling with this invention, +which—apart from its chemical peculiarities—seemed suitable for warming +his magnetic hut. The equipment of this mansion seemed to occupy all his +waking thoughts, while his chief exercise seemed to be taken by whirling +sling thermometers. + +The other room was almost filled with a huge petty officer who was +sorting gear for the sledges. I looked at his sturdy proportions with +considerable respect, which would have been increased had I known how +invaluable “Taff” Evans was to be on my first expedition in the +Antarctic. An old 1902 sledge was lying in the passage, whose splintered +runners and weather-worn appearance told graphically of the screw-pack +and “bottle-glass” ice it had surmounted in the past. + +Captain Scott was busy at first, but I soon had a long talk with him. In +my journal I wrote as follows:— + +“Scott is just what I expected, a sturdily built, clean-shaved naval +officer, with plenty of humour and decision. He told me that Mawson was +coming over from Australia immediately. His idea was to have two +geologists on the Erebus side of the Barrier, and one on King Edward +VII. land. The latter party would have wireless if possible. He drew a +moving picture of me wiring signals of wind velocity, etc., to Mawson. +‘Just like old times, a friend at each end,’ said he. Scott is going to +try for the Pole along the old route, I gather, and not _viâ_ King +Edward VII. land. The ship will leave in July and make a long trip _viâ_ +Madeira and Kerguelen to enable the men to shake together.” + +Lieutenant Campbell was often in and out of the offices. His was an +independent command, and he was collecting his stores and labelling them +with a distinctive broad green band. The cases were made of Venesta—a +patent three-ply material, extremely light and extraordinarily tough. +One could hardly break into them with a pick-axe! They were bound with +iron and made to contain about 40 lbs. weight, to facilitate handling. + +The question of Antarctic clothing greatly interested many ladies of my +acquaintance. Some of them, indeed, were so urgent that I should look +into this matter, that I began to get alarmed myself. On inquiry I found +that the fur boots were carefully arranged to go over four pairs of +socks and a layer of senna-grass; which seemed to point to a somewhat +wide margin of safety. Of the Antarctic suits—trousers, jerseys, and +overalls—I was told there was a supply in two sizes—long and short! I +looked at the scientific director as he smilingly gave me this +information, and judged what would fit him would suit me, so that no +measurement was necessary in this class of tailoring. + +The first order from Captain Scott concerned the purchase of clothing +for the voyage to New Zealand. For this £8 was allowed by the +Expedition. I told Captain Scott that I was not making the voyage in the +_Terra Nova_, and had a kit of tropical gear already. He remarked with a +twinkle in his eye, “Never mind about that, I dare say you will be able +to spend it on something useful!” + +A few days later I went to the West India Dock and saw the _Terra Nova_ +for the first time. Here was Lieutenant Evans “merry and bright” from +the start! He was assisting Captain Scott to chalk out cabin spaces on +the deck. In a later section I describe her equipment very fully, so +that there is no need to dwell on it here, save that amongst the large +liners in the dock she had somewhat the appearance of a minnow among the +Tritons. At any rate, the “leviathan” is half as large again as +Shackleton’s _Nimrod_, and if Columbus could board her no doubt he would +feel himself on a Lusitania. + +About this time I received a cable offering me a post on the +Commonwealth staff. Through the kindness of the authorities concerned I +was able to hold both positions concurrently; and I went South with a +definite commission to study all the scientific factors—but especially +the meteorology—which might concern Australian interests. + +Early in February Mawson came up to Cambridge to stay a few days with +me. We had passed through Sydney University together, and done our early +geological field work under Professor David. We had kept in touch with +each other and had many common friends. During my cycle trip through the +Alps, Glasson (from Adelaide) told me that when any of Mawson’s +acquaintance at Adelaide University wanted chocolate, the explorer would +take an ice-axe and break a lump off the huge block he had looted from +Shackleton’s Expedition! I felt that an expedition of this type had +peculiar attractions for me, but, alas! our chocolate supply was never +on such a prodigal scale. + +Mawson gave us a talk at the Research Students’ Club that evening. He +told us many harrowing tales, and glances of pity were bestowed on +Wright and myself by the other members of the club! The next afternoon +he was persuaded to give a lecture in the geological school, so that we +knew a lot more of Antarctic conditions before he left. By this time he +had decided not to accept Scott’s offer of a position on the staff, but +he gave all of us much useful information as to equipment and research. + +Two other Cambridge men—both biologists—were appointed to the staff. I +had heard of Lillie’s adventures in the Atlantic, where he had carried +out anatomical dissections with an axe! His subjects were whales, on +which, I take it, ordinary instruments would have had but little effect. + +He was a John’s man, while Nelson came from Christ’s. Nelson had been +“down” for some time, working at the Plymouth biological laboratory. I +had heard of him from a friend of mine who had worked there also. + +Wright, of Caius, had been a mate of mine for several terms. He was a +leading light in our Peripatetic Club, and was in fact the best walker +among the members. Wright and I heard so much of the prowess of the +naval men in every branch of athletics that we decided to show them that +the scientists had _some_ muscle. One morning we set off from Cambridge +at 5 a.m. with some boiled eggs and chocolate and walked to London, +where we reached St. Paul’s, Islington, at 5 p.m. It was a non-stop +effort, and Wright came through “smiling,” but my feet were so sore that +I could hardly stand next day. My chief recollection is one of loathing +for hard-boiled eggs, and of the relief with which I dropped +three-quarters of our provisions in a secluded corner of King’s Cross! + +During the Easter vacation I planned a trip to the Engadine and Como to +study glacial erosion in some detail. I had already spent some months in +this part of the Alps, and wished to gain fresh data on many questions. +A college friend accompanied me. Professor Bonney was kind enough to +give us advice as to the best routes during March, for my previous trips +had been in summer. He also discussed the questions of valley erosion at +some length, and I was glad to hear that they would form the basis for +his presidential address to the British Association at Sheffield. He was +strongly opposed to W. M. Davis’ views on the subject, holding that +_water_ and not _ice_ had cut out most of the Alpine valleys. I had +learnt my glaciology from the eminent American while in the Swiss Alps, +and was naturally Davisian in consequence. However, Antarctica led me to +place more stress on _frost_ action as an eroding agent, so that my +position is now between the two schools! + +We had an interesting and useful trip lasting for six weeks. This is +hardly the place to discuss the results of this journey, though in some +sense it belongs to the Expedition, for Captain Scott paid the bulk of +my expenses. I visited for a second time the wonderful valleys north of +Bellinzona, the Val Mesocco to the north-east and the Val Ticino to the +north-west. At Mesocco and Faido are two of the most striking bars or +“riegel” across the Alpine troughs, and later in Antarctica I was to +find a third even more striking example. Thus, about twenty miles south +of Saint Gothard is the _basin_ of Piotta, a trough with vertical walls +two thousand feet high and a flat valley floor. This is analogous to the +Antarctic valley containing Lake Bonney (77° 30′ S.). Then at Fiesso +this basin is bounded by a great bar or _riegel_, through which a narrow +defile passes at one side; so also at the Nussbaum Riegel in Antarctica. +Below Fiesso is the broad _trough_ of Lavorgo closely paralleled by the +broad “dry valley” in the southern continent. + +[Illustration: + + Block diagrams illustrating the basins, gorges, and riegel in the Val + Ticino below Saint Gothard. (Cf. Taylor Valley, Antarctica.) +] + +On my way back from Italy I stopped for a few days with the glaciologist +Nussbaum at Bern, and explored the queer drainage in the valleys near +that city. In the last Ice Age all this fertile country lay below the +Rhone Glacier, and I was to find that many of the features in Antarctica +reproduced, in the present, the past history of the Swiss scenery. + +I reached London on the evening that Peary gave his lecture in the +Albert Hall. Mawson had given me his ticket and I decided to go, though +I had to appear in my touring rig of puttees and peletin. I heard that +Bernard Day—our motor expert and lately with Shackleton—had the next +seat. It was a tremendous crowd and a very interesting lecture. As is +somewhat usual with Americans, he gesticulates more than is common among +British speakers. He had just received the medal (which was designed by +Lady Scott) and expressed his sense of the honour done him and the care +with which he would cherish this token of the Geographical Society’s +esteem, when the medal dropped violently from his hand amid audible +amusement from the thousands comprising his audience. However, he picked +it up and proceeded with his remarks with the greatest _sang froid_. Day +and I were much impressed by his method of relaying with dog teams, and +felt that he deserved full credit for his long-sustained attack on the +North Pole. Three years later I was to be again in the Albert Hall to +hear Commander Evans describe the British conquest of the Pole; but +Bernard Day had now settled “on the land” near my own home in Sydney, +New South Wales. + +Before I left England I had met most of the officers. Bowers I first saw +at dinner one evening with Captain Scott. Lady Scott was coming out to +Australia, and was much interested in the political and social questions +of the “British continent.” She had done some long tramps in +Switzerland, and told us much about the Fabian Society and about her art +life. She had heard of our tramp to London. “Did you really walk sixty +miles in ten hours?” So had rumour reported it. It was mortifying to +confess to a bare fifty miles in twelve hours! Birdie Bowers appeared in +the full insignia of a Lieutenant of the Indian Marine. He was at this +time so busy loading the ship at the docks that I did not see him again +until I joined the _Terra Nova_ in New Zealand. + +On the 12th of May I joined the _Orontes_ and I reached Melbourne at the +end of June. For the next three months I was busy at the new Federal +capital—then unnamed,—where I carried out various surveys for the +Commonwealth. + +In July Professor David sent me some microscope slides made from a +limestone obtained by Shackleton’s party on the Beardmore Glacier. To +our delight I was able to identify them as fossil “corals” of Cambrian +age, of the same genus as those from South Australia on which I had been +working at Cambridge. Some account of these Antarctic fossils which +Wright also discovered in some of his specimens from the Beardmore is +given in the account of our life at headquarters. + +Professor David gave me invaluable advice on Antarctic matters. At the +School of Geology at the University of Sydney is a large “Antarctic +Room” filled with specimens collected on the 1907 Expedition. Here +Priestley had been working out results for many months, and here he +presided over informal “tea” at 4.30 every afternoon! Here I met Alan +Thomson, a geological scholar from Oxford, who was to have been one of +us, but that he developed lung trouble at the last moment. In +consequence of Thomson’s illness, Priestley obtained Shackleton’s +permission by cable, and thereupon accepted Captain Scott’s offer to +join us. Many were the yarns Priestley told us of his 1908 experiences. +He said that the young Eskimo dogs, born down there, never knew water, +yet they held out a water-can for a drink when they saw it! More +credible was the story of how they buried the water-can (containing a +future drink) and were profoundly disgusted on digging it up to find +that their refreshment had vanished! The yarn which I fear I completely +disbelieved—anent killing skua gulls by throwing a slab of rock +vertically upward—I proved practically a few days after landing at Cape +Evans, as will appear in its own place. + +Meanwhile the _Terra Nova_ had left Cardiff and slowly sailed by the +“wind-jammers’” route to New Zealand. They had an exciting time at South +Trinidad—a lonely island off Brazil—swimming through shark-infested surf +to the shore. Here they made some biological collections, and on the +remainder of the voyage many of the land-lubbers became respectable +sailor-men. I hardly knew Wright when I saw him reefing sails and +running up the ratlines as if to the manner born. + +The third geologist appointed on Professor David’s recommendation was +Frank Debenham, scholar at my old university, and a family friend for +many years. Indeed, the three sons of each family had gone to the same +school, and five of us to the same university. It was extremely pleasant +to be associated with men like Debenham and Wright, and I was indeed +fortunate to have them as sledge mates in the difficult times to come. + +By degrees all the party were assembling at the Antipodes. Meares had +been collecting dogs and ponies in Manchuria. He had spent several years +in this part of Asia, and was already renowned for his journeys into +unknown Tibet. He passed through Sydney in October—accompanied by +Lieutenant Bruce—a few days before I arrived. + +Captain Scott, Wilson, and Simpson were now in Australia busy on various +matters. During the voyage Simpson and Wright had carried out +experiments on the electrical state of the air, and the latter was now +engaged on testing and standardizing his pendulum apparatus before he +left civilization. + +On the 22nd of October, 1910, Debenham and I left Sydney for New +Zealand. We were to join Captain Scott at Christchurch, and the _Terra +Nova_ was now lying at Lyttelton—the port of that city. + +[Illustration: + + The chief travels of the sixteen officers at Headquarters, Cape Evans, + 1911. (Track of _Terra Nova_, 1910–1913, shown also.) +] + +Some of the officers I did not meet until I reached New Zealand. There +was Ponting, whose beautiful book on Japan had just appeared. He had had +a most varied experience, including mining and ranching in California, +before his genius in artistic photography manifested itself. He and +Meares were old friends, and had travelled together in many Eastern +countries. Indeed, this fore-knowledge was a usual thing among members. +Simpson had almost accompanied Scott in 1902. Wilson, of course, made +his name on that expedition; and had been chiefly connected with the +Grouse Commission since. + +Cherry-Garrard was making an extended tour of the world when the +expedition was started, and volunteered from Australia. He was the sole +representative sent by the University of Oxford. He came out from home +on the _Terra Nova_, and was one of the landsmen who took kindly to a +sailor’s life. A characteristic of Cherry’s was his never-ending series +of gifts to his mates. A most acceptable pair of huge Jaeger socks +brought about our real introduction! + +Captain Oates had seen service in many parts of the Empire. With +difficulty one could get him to talk of his experiences in India (in the +province of Indore) or in the South African war, where he served with +distinction. He was very busy with the ponies during the voyage south, +and I hardly spoke to him until we were marooned together in the Old +Discovery Hut. One heard that he was a keen yachtsman, but his strong +character and real sense of humour were hidden under a very quiet +exterior. Our naval surgeon, Dr. Atkinson, and myself had no work in +common until the same month of March at Hut Point brought us together +when the Western and Depôt parties joined forces. + +Perhaps the most interesting career among the younger officers was that +of Tryggve Gran. He was only a few years over age, and yet he had seen +more of the world than any member except Captain Scott. Born in Bergen, +and educated in Switzerland, he had travelled all his life. He knew +Europe from Turkey to Iceland, and shared with Simpson and Campbell a +knowledge of Arctic life. He had fought rebels in Venezuela, tramped +across South America, spent several years in the merchant service and +navy of Norway, and was now a sub-lieutenant and a B.A. of Christiania. +His chief record hitherto had been that of winning the Blue Ribbon of +Norway, the Holman-Kol cup for ski-running. This narrative will have +much to say of him, and will show that his versatility and willingness +to help were remarkable even among the group of men who were my mates in +Antarctica. + +People have often asked me what attraction Antarctica had for me +personally. It was purely scientific at first, but now I realize that +the companionship with such ideal mates was the chief joy in Antarctic +life. I have not, up to the time of writing, felt any of the “call to +the Antarctic” that others describe; but travel anywhere with my mates +of the South would be equally attractive. + +At the risk of being tedious, I will try to describe the chief problem +in science which I hoped to help solve by my sojourn in Antarctica. +Briefly, it is the study of the effect of ice (chiefly as glaciers) in +carving out the features of the earth’s surface. It may quite +legitimately be asked, “What is the value of that knowledge? What +bearing has it on science and human interests?” + +Most people know that Europe has passed through an Ice Age comparatively +recently, but few—even among geologists—would be prepared to agree that +almost every factor of human environment in Central Europe has been +affected by this ancient ice-cap. All inter-communication, much of the +agriculture, all the scenery; nay, even the very possibility of +continuous habitation is due to the work of the ancient glaciers. The +Gothard, Simplon, and Mont Cenis railways pass along deep glacier-cut +gorges (see p. 9) until they reach comparatively narrow ridges which can +be pierced by tunnels. The great Alpine passes are but cols due to +glacial erosion. The fertile uplands (the true “Alps”), where the Swiss +flocks pasture, and the extensive deep-lying plains of deep rich soil +are glacial debris. The magnificent waterfalls, the tributary valleys +“hanging” over the main gorge, are only found in regions where ice has +played an important part in its past history. In winter it is only in +these deep gorges, excavated two thousand feet below the general level +in countries like Switzerland, that the inhabitants and their flocks can +hibernate until the grass covers the country in the succeeding spring. + +There can be no more valuable branch of geology than one which tries to +chronicle the actions which have made the Alpine countries of the world +so different from the more normal regions. But it is by no means +universally allowed that this work is principally due to ice. One school +of geologists maintains that water can carve out a land surface in a +similar way; and in Switzerland, New Zealand, and similar regions, it is +difficult to decide whether the living waters or the long-vanished +glaciers have cut out a certain gorge or canyon. Where, then, is the +solution to be found? We cannot observe Europe in the clutch of an Ice +Age; but it is possible to find a region—once, no doubt, as warm as +portions of Europe—now undergoing its period of intense cold and +accompanying glacial erosion. + +In almost waterless Antarctica the land is being slowly carved out into +features which must be related to those obtaining in Alpine Europe and +other elevated regions, if (as I believe) the Great Ice Age has left an +unmistakable imprint of itself in a characteristic topography. + +I may fittingly conclude the “series of introductions” by a list of the +officers. This gives their positions; and, what may be found more useful +to the reader, their nicknames and the personnel of the various parties +into which the expedition split up on arrival in Antarctica. + + + LIST OF OFFICERS AND THEIR PARTIES. + + _Leader._—CAPTAIN ROBERT FALCON SCOTT. + _Second in Command._—LIEUTENANT E. R. G. R. EVANS. + _Chief of Scientific Staff._—DR. E. A. WILSON. + + + SHIP. + + Harry Pennell, Commander R.N. + Henry de P. Rennick, Lieutenant R.N. + Wilfred M. Bruce, Commander R.N. + Francis Drake, Assist. Paymaster R.N. (retired). + Dennis Lillie, M.A., Biologist. + James Dennistoun (1911–12 voyage). + Alfred B. Cheetham, R.N.R., Boatswain. + William Williams, Engineer. + + + SHORE PARTIES. + + + A. _Northern Party_ (Jan. 1911–Nov. 1912). + + Victor Campbell, Lieutenant R.N. + G. Murray Levick, Surgeon R.N. + Raymond Priestley, Geologist. + (And Abbott, Dickason, Browning.) + + + B. _Depôt Party_ (Jan. 1911–April, 1911). + + Robert Falcon Scott, Captain, C.V.O., R.N. (The Owner). + Edward R. A. R. Evans, Lieutenant R.N. (Teddy). + Henry R. Bowers, Lieutenant R.I.M. (Birdie). + Lawrence E. G. Oates, Captain (Titus). + Edward L. Atkinson, Surgeon R.N. (Atch). + Edward A. Wilson, B.A., M.B., Chief of Scientific Staff (Uncle Bill). + Cecil H. Meares, in charge of dogs (Mother). + Apsley Cherry-Garrard, B.A., Assistant Zoologist (Cherry). + Tryggve Gran, B.A., Sub-Lieutenant (Trigger). + (And Keohane, Crean, Forde, and Demitri.) + + + C. _Western Party_ (Jan.–March, 1911). + + Griffith Taylor, B.Sc., B.E., B.A., Geologist (Grif). + Frank Debenham, B.Sc., B.A., Geologist (Deb.). + Charles Wright, B.A., Physicist (Silas). + (And Edgar Evans.) + + + D. _At Cape Evans_ (Jan.–April, 1911). + + George C. Simpson, D.Sc., Meteorologist (Sunny Jim). + Edward W. Nelson, Biologist (Marie). + Herbert G. Ponting, Camera-artist (Ponte). + Bernard C. Day, Motor Engineer (Rivets). + (And Lashley, Hooper, Clissold and Anton.) + +All those in lists B, C, and D were united under Captain Scott at +Headquarters during most of 1911. + + + E. _Midwinter Party_ (July, 1911). + + E. A. Wilson, H. R. Bowers, A. Cherry-Garrard. + + + POLE PARTY AND SUPPORTS. + + A. _Pole Party._ + + Captain Scott. + E. A. Wilson. + L. E. G. Oates. + H. R. Bowers. + Edgar Evans. + + + B. _Last Support._ + + E. R. G. R. Evans. + Lashley. + Crean. + + + C. _Summit Party._ + + E. L. Atkinson. + C. S. Wright. + A. Cherry-Garrard. + P. Keohane. + + + D. _Dog Sledges._ + + C. H. Meares. + Demetri Gerof. + + + E. _Motor Party._ + + B. C. Day. + F. J. Hooper. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by W. Hillsdon, Lyttelton, N.Z._] + + OFFICERS AND CREW, CAPTAIN SCOTT’S ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION, 1910. + + _Left to right_: Taylor, Wright, Simpson, Nelson, Levick, Oates, + Evans, Bowers, Wilson, Scott, Campbell, Davies, Rennick, Ponting, + Gran, Browning, Debenham, Day, Cherry-Garrard, Pennell, Meares, + Drake, Bruce, Forde. +] + + + 2ND WESTERN PARTY (Nov. 1911–February, 1912). + + Griffith Taylor. + Frank Debenham. + Tryggve Gran. + R. Forde. + + + AT THE HUT (Nov. 1911 to Jan. 1912). + + George C. Simpson. + E. W. Nelson. + H. G. Ponting. + Clissold. + Anton. + + + THE HUT PARTY DURING THE SECOND WINTER. + + E. L. Atkinson. + E. W. Nelson. + F. Debenham. + C. S. Wright. + A. Cherry-Garrard. + T. Gran. + Crean, Forde, Lashley, Hooper, Archer, Williamson and Demetri. + +They were joined by the Northern Party late in 1912. + + + + + II + THE _TERRA NOVA_ GOES SOUTH[1] + + + + + CHAPTER I + THE GEOLOGISTS VISIT THE NEW ZEALAND GLACIERS + + +On the morning of the 4th of November the Australian contingent reached +Lyttelton. The first ship we saw was the _Terra Nova_ snugly berthed +alongside the wharf, and separated by a few feet from the shed No. 5 in +which most of the gear was stored. She was readily recognizable by her +characteristic rigging surmounted by the crow’s nest. The funnel is +painted a rather vivid yellow, and is decidedly abaft of the centre of +the ship, a feature which is usually represented wrongly in the models +of the ship displayed in some of the Dominion’s shops. + +Technically the _Terra Nova_ is a barque equipped with an auxiliary +screw. She was built at Dundee, and carries three masts (two +square-rigged), of which the mizen, for reasons explained later, is +rarely used. Socially she is a Royal Yacht, which means that she may fly +the white ensign, a privilege only accorded to certain favoured vessels +of the Empire. In fact, I think, apart from our barque, all the units of +the Royal Yacht Squadron are on pleasure bent; and certainly no other is +frozen in the Antarctic Pack as we are at the time of writing. +Originally she was used as a whaler, and differs little in general +arrangement from the _Nimrod_ (Sir Ernest Shackleton’s ship), though she +is approximately twice as powerful a vessel. Almost the only wooden +vessels now built are those used in the polar seas, and as no steel +vessel could stand the wear and tear caused by the constant collision +with ice, it follows that an exploring expedition usually makes use of a +converted whaling vessel. + +When I first saw her in the West India Docks at London, she had a wide +and spacious poop and a distinctly narrow and confined saloon. Now the +proportions are reversed. The poop-deck consists merely of the space +around the wheel and binnacle; all the remaining area has been filled +with laboratories and with two central structures, the deck-house and +chart-house. Below, a relatively noble room has been provided; with an +enclosed balcony much more useful and not much less ornamental than the +classic specimen in Verona! + +In naval parlance, our saloon is dignified by the title of “wardroom,” +and has none of the inconveniences usually associated with polar +exploration. It is plainly furnished with a long centre table and two +lateral leather-covered seats. The stove (not yet needed) certainly +blocks the passage behind the head of the table, but under normal +conditions, especially before the expansive after-dinner moments, there +is sitting accommodation for seventeen officers. Three more sit on boxes +at three corners—the fourth being left open as a breathing space for the +steward. Hence twenty of the twenty-four constituting the “afterguard” +are accounted for, and the remainder are usually on watch, and arrive +uproariously hungry after the majority have reached the tobacco stage. + +[Illustration: + + Section across poop of _Terra Nova_ (not to scale). +] + +On our early appearance we were cheerily hailed by the two officers on +board. One had just converted the deck-house “balcony”—which overlooked +the _wardroom_—into a bathroom, the other was devouring ham and eggs +down below. But most of the officers, after their four months’ voyage, +were staying in Christchurch some eight miles away, and came into the +ship by early train. Lyttelton is a magnificent harbour of extraordinary +origin. Port Phillip, it is well known, is a drowned coastal plain, +hence its low banks and rounded contour; Port Jackson is a drowned river +valley, as is obvious from its winding outline and deep frontage; while +Wellington Harbour occupies earthquake landslides. But Lyttelton Harbour +is a drowned mountain valley, with hills rising fifteen hundred feet +almost continuously around the elongated basin. The eastern flanks of +this isolated mountain (Banks Peninsula) are drowned in the Pacific; the +western flanks are buried, several thousand feet probably, in the silts +and shingle of the Canterbury Plains. The fair city of Christchurch, +which has arisen on an even plain stretching twenty miles north, south, +and west, has a wonderful harbour at her door, owing to this unique +juxtaposition of plain and buried mountain. Most of the members of the +Expedition tramped over the old bridle-track to see the view from the +top, but all traffic passes through the railway tunnel—one and a +half-mile long—cut deep in the volcanic rocks of the Peninsula. + +The office of the Expedition was close to the cathedral in Christchurch, +almost in the shadow of the steeple, which has a habit of toppling down +under the stress of earthquake shocks. Here was the secretary struggling +with a mass of correspondence—very largely letters asking for +autographs, penguin eggs, and rocks from the south. These modest +requests, however pathetically they are worded, cannot be attended to in +the last few days of preparation of a large expedition. More annoying +were the sheaves of letters sent later on board the _Terra Nova_, +addressed in such terms as “Mr. Wood-B. Pole-seeker, King Edward VII. +Land.” The addressees not being known, they will probably languish in a +New Zealand Dead Letter Office. + +Captain Scott arranged that those scientists who were specially engaged +in glacier investigation should immediately proceed to the New Zealand +Alps to study polar conditions amid somewhat less strenuous +circumstances than in Antarctica. I do not propose to do more than give +a brief outline of the features of this region, which may reasonably be +supposed to be analogous to those obtaining in Victoria Land. + +[Illustration: + + Harbours visited on the voyage to New Zealand. +] + +[Illustration: + + N.B.—In both these peaks and also in the Antarctic “Matterhorn” (in + Taylor’s Valley, _q.v._) the “faceted” slopes are due to the eating + away of the sides by cürm (cirque) erosion. +] + +We carried a pair of Norwegian ski as a present from the Expedition to +the guide at the Hermitage below Mount Cook; and we were shod in +Norwegian ski boots, whose chief characteristics are a square high +toe—to fit the ski-iron—and a large size—to contain comfortably three +pairs of socks! We were also provided with some special surveying +instruments, aneroids made of aluminium and only half the ordinary +weight, and a queer type of hand compass, the shape of a gypsy’s kettle. +The needle was surrounded with a heavy oil and the case carefully sealed +in, so that the oscillation should be “deadbeat,” and not waste valuable +time in coming to rest. + +A hundred-mile motor ride bridges the gap between the railway at Fairlie +and the Government accommodation house “the Hermitage” beneath Mount +Cook. As we rapidly traversed the foothills—bare but for coarse tussocks +of grass—the Alps came nearer and were more visible. The snowline was +very strikingly marked on the mountains. To the north Mount Cook (12,349 +feet) showed almost 7000 feet of snow, and thence as the mountains +decreased in height less and less projected above the snowline, until on +those 5000 feet high only the peaks retained any snow. The Swiss Alps +are _in the same latitude_ (44°), but there the snowline is at 8000 +feet, so that to get an adequate comparison of the two Alpine regions +one must add on 3000 feet to the European peaks. Or, put in another way, +there is as much snow scenery on Mount Cook (12,349) as on the +Matterhorn (14,780), one of the highest peaks in Europe. It is a +striking example, illustrating the fact that the southern hemisphere is, +on the whole, ten degrees colder than the northern. For both Alpine +lands are, as is said above, about 44° latitude. If we use the accepted +factor of 1° F. decrease in temperature for 300 feet ascent, we see that +ten degrees difference in temperature would alter the snowline 3000 +feet, as is actually the case. + +[Illustration: The Snout of the Tasman Glacier from Sebastopol 19·11·10] + +The Mount Cook region forms an interesting stage in glacial development +between Antarctica and the Kosciusko region in Australia. Later we shall +see what are the appearances where the snowline reaches sea-level—just +north of the Antarctic Circle. As we reach the Tasman valley draining +the Mount Cook area, we are struck by several peculiarities in the +scenery. There are no spurs projecting into the broad main valley, but +each of the valley walls lies in one plane to a much greater degree than +in normal valleys. Perched up on the high slopes are little hanging +valleys, from which small streams cascade to the broad main valley. +Along the slopes are lines of debris, like wandering railway +embankments, which (though a thousand feet above the present river) mark +the height of the ancient glaciers. These latter carved the undercut +cliffs and left the tributary valleys up in the air. These signs are not +wanting in the Australian glacial region, where, indeed, they may be +more obvious than in Antarctica, for they have been exposed by the +retreat of the glaciation, whereas they will be to some extent concealed +_beneath_ the immense icefield of the south. + +[Illustration: + + Map of glaciers in New Zealand visited in November, 1910, by the + geologists. N.B. The Tasmanian glacier from X to Y is covered with + moraine blocks. +] + +But in New Zealand are enormous glaciers, bigger than any in Europe, +more accessible and (being under Government control) much more +economical from the point of view of the ordinary tourist. Let us +imagine ourselves a mile or so north of the Hermitage on the slopes +alongside the Tewaewae Glacier. This hanging tributary is, however, +never known by its Maori name, but by a more homely one (which can +hardly be a _translation_)—the “Stocking.” + +Just below us is the junction of the Hooker and Mueller valleys, each +containing a large glacier. We have crossed the lower portion of the +Mueller Glacier to reach this spot. It hardly presents the features +usually associated with glaciers by those who gained their impressions +from written descriptions. Here it is a disturbed sea of debris, +consisting of blocks of slate varying in height from twenty feet to a +few inches. Here and there large boat-shaped hollows show sheer black +faces which glisten in the sunlight. Down these falls a constant stream +of shingle, and occasionally a huge monolith tumbles with a roar into +the body of the glacier. For there are ancient crevasses in the glacier, +though it needs close inspection to see that their dark walls are formed +of ice. + +[Illustration: Looking down the Snout of the Mueller Glacier, from the +Stocking 5·11·10] + +We must go several miles higher up the glacier to reach the clean white +fields of snow and ice usually associated with the name. It is this +tumbled debris—the surface moraine—which forms one of the most +formidable obstacles to exploration of the coastal regions of +Antarctica; while the smooth normal glacier surface is excellent +travelling. All round the snout of the Mueller Glacier extends an almost +circular rampart consisting of two lines of fortifications. There is an +outer wall some 300 feet high, curving grandly from the Stocking’s wall +right across the Hooker Valley, and thence above the Hermitage back to +Kea Point. This is thickly covered with shrubs, and contrasts strongly +with the somewhat lower inner rampart of new-piled blocks of slate. At +first glance this suggests an ancient crater wall; but it is a glacial +product, the terminal and lateral moraines shovelled out to the edges of +the glacier by the ever-moving river of ice. + +More striking still is the course of the water draining from the Hooker +Glacier. This lies about two miles away to the north of the snout of the +Mueller, and from ice caves in its terminal face a broad stream rushes +to join the waters of the Mueller Glacier. It will be readily understood +that in this small area, including the short ice-free strip of the +valley and the snouts of the two glaciers (depositing huge piles of +debris), the deposits are very erratically arranged. Moreover, the +waters of the Hooker actually hit the side of the Mueller Glacier, dip +underneath for half a mile, and then reappear as a sort of miniature +maëlstrom. I dwell on this because it shows how difficult it may well be +for geologists in the year 10,000 A.D. (when the ice has long vanished) +to explain the origin of the topography in such a region as Mount Cook. +Much the same difficulty has occurred time and again in regions +glaciated in comparatively late periods, such as in England, U.S.A., and +even in the Australian Alps. One of the most promising features in +Antarctic scientific work is the light it is bound to throw on +geological phenomena somewhat like this, though on a much grander scale. + + + + + CHAPTER II + SHIP LIFE IN CALM AND STORM + + +The few days between our return from the New Zealand Alps and the +sailing of the _Terra Nova_ were occupied by multifarious duties. The +ship had been dry-docked at Lyttelton, and a bulkhead built across the +fore hold. This space was filled with water, and the leaks detected +where the water spouted out. At the same time the lock nuts on the +four-bladed propeller were inspected by chipping off the casing of +concrete in which they were embedded. A cross section amidships was +almost rectangular. I was surprised at the enormous lateral bulges which +almost made the boat flat-bottomed hereabouts, though she narrowed to a +sharp overhanging bow heavily plated with iron. To a landsman the rudder +appeared strangely long and narrow, almost like a simple vertical beam. +But a broad rudder would project dangerously in floe work. + +After caulking, the ship was brought back to shed No. 5, and the loading +of the stores proceeded rapidly. On Friday (25th October) the dogs and +ponies were brought across from Quail Island, some five miles higher up +the harbour. Neither gave much trouble, and I was struck with the calm +way the dogs endured the pulling and ignominious lifting by neck, back, +or legs without retaliating. Probably our dogs are more gentlemanly than +those of former expeditions. + +The ponies are placed in stalls in the fore part of the ship. Four are +just abaft the cook’s galley in a strong shed, boarded up for four feet, +but otherwise open in front. The mess deck—which may be described as the +ground floor of the fore part of the ship—has been given up to the +remaining dozen in similar stalls, six along each side. The seamen whose +quarters have thus been annexed have gone one storey lower. The dogs +were at first chained up everywhere—over the hatches, on the deck-house, +in the waist, everywhere except the poop. The two Peary dogs—somewhat +larger but not so sturdy as the Siberians—are marooned in the alley +between the laboratories and the deck-house, where they are tripped over +every few minutes by some hurrying scientist. They are both black and +indistinguishable to me, but are known—by a somewhat invidious +juxtaposition of ideas—as Peary and Cook. + +On Saturday, the 26th, a farewell address was given by the Bishop of +Christchurch. It took place at noon on the poop, and was attended by all +the members of the expedition and some half-dozen visitors. The time of +departure had been fixed for three o’clock many days previously, so that +every one was ready and there was no delay. We were accompanied to the +Heads by half a dozen excursion steamers and tugs, and by numerous small +launches. Guns were fired from the battery and from the warships at +anchor in the port. A New Zealand flag floated on our mizen +mast—presented by a local school. Many of the launches had kindly +messages displayed. One particular large banner in the distance excited +our curiosity. With the glasses we made out, “Excursion to the Heads, +one shilling.” What a descent from the sublime to the ridiculous! + +At the Heads Captain Scott left us to join at Dunedin, but our most +popular manager, Mr. Wyatt, accompanied us in his cabin. In anticipation +of bad weather—which happily spared us—the newly joined members of the +expedition devoted their attention to stowing their personal baggage. I +must confess I felt this a hopeless task. + +Our cabin measures six by eight feet. On the roof beam is cut, +“Certified to accommodate two seamen,” but four scientists and their +belongings have spent a large portion of a month therein, and ultimately +with little discomfort. But four wooden bunks and a wash-basin take up a +large portion of six by eight feet. Our Antarctic clothing had been +issued the day before we sailed—a solid block of woollen goods, with a +canvas “sausage” four feet long which they filled completely. Four of +these formed the _pièce de résistance_ of our baggage. But each of us +had another similar bag of ordinary clothing, and a box for books, etc. +On top of this pile reposed a layer of sea-boots of enormous length and +weight, but during bad weather beyond price. Cameras and other delicate +trifles were shoved in through the door, when one had managed to open it +sufficiently. + +I had no idea where we were going to bestow ourselves, but an old +voyager explained to me how it was to be done. Obviously there was no +floor space, no room for shelves, no cupboards; but the bunks (one above +the other) are big solid wooden structures provided with four blankets +and a thick mattress. A man does not need much more space than a coffin +to sleep in, and these bunks were nearly three feet apart. It was almost +impossible to fill that wonderful space beneath the mattress! I emptied +into it two rucksacks of books, etc., one of the aforementioned +“sausages,” a drawing board, all sorts of tools, diaries, hammers, +bottles of ink, hunting knives. When this was safely under the mattress +my sleep was not troubled by these crumpled rose-leaves. + +The three new-comers were all geologists, and as such needed no +laboratory on the ship, but the other scientists were able to stow away +many articles in the physical, chemical, and biological laboratories. +These palatial quarters will be described later, when it will be +understood that this does not imply that _their_ mattresses were free +from protuberances. Wires festoon some of the bunks to eke out the +accommodation. The space over one’s feet is not wasted, for small wooden +boxes are nailed thereon—or maybe a small bookcase. I thought that two +of the shoulder-bags used in the Alps (known as rucksacks) would be most +useful if hung alongside my bunk. This ingenious idea failed dismally, +as will appear later. No one in our cabin has succeeded in controlling +the vagaries of our ubiquitous water-can. It would appear to be an +ordinary utensil of a brown-yellow colour, with a spout. But somewhere +or other it has a pair of legs and a mischievous brain contained within +it. And usually it is drunk with its powers for mischief, and is +discovered on its side spilling water on our socks and shoes, or +inebriate in another corner destroying all satisfaction in one’s last +dry change. It is only of late that we have had peace, for now only half +a cup of water per day is allowed, and the bucket over the bulwarks +serves all other purposes. + +Let us pay a call next door—further for’ard, but still on the port side +of the wardroom. This apartment is known as the “nursery.” It is bigger +than our dwelling, but needs to be, for six stalwart explorers have +their quarters there. Black envy at times embitters the friendly +feelings between the neighbours, for has not the nursery a cupboard with +a whole drawer (two inches high) to each inmate! A somewhat doubtful joy +is theirs, however, for by far the most prominent piece of furniture +therein—and, indeed, there are only two besides the cupboard—is a +Broadwood pianola! One of the first I ever saw was in Samoa, twenty +miles from a town, and owned by a native gentleman. In that case it was +a separate attachment, and as his piano had lost many of the strings, +little good resulted from the combination. But our pianola is a thing of +beauty and a joy for ever. The new-comer notices a bulge in the +ceiling—apparently of rubber—with a hose pipe attached thereto. This is +a primitive but necessary adjunct to our pianola, and is, in fact, its +little umbrella, which keeps it dry when the stormy winds do blow and +poop-decks leak. The other piece of furniture, mentioned above, is a +tall wooden cabinet, containing 250 rolls for the pianola. Although +probably every member of the expedition has barked his shins thereon, +yet all is forgiven when Wagner, Gilbert and Sullivan, Strauss, the +Washington Post, or Ragtime tunes (not being a musician, I do not know +the names of 245 of them) are echoing through the wardroom. Another +trial to the men of the nursery is that their apartments form a short +cut to the engine-room. It is only since we reached the pack that a +constant procession of intruders, bearing unpleasing footgear and damp +clothing (to spread on the cylinder head), has ceased to trespass. + +Across the for’ard end of the wardroom is an important room dedicated to +the culinary arts. Here the two stewards cut up succulent joints, and +during a gale a merry jostling and jangling of countless plates and +pannikins rival the notes of the pianola. The entrance to the wardroom +is on the starboard side. It is beset with angles and pitfalls. When a +visitor has safely negotiated the steep steps leading from the +poop-deck, and turned sharply round to enter the wardroom, he is in +grave danger of falling down a hatch to the lazaret and +chronometer-room. Theoretically, when the hatch is open (about six hours +a day) an iron bar is placed across the passage. Practically the natives +feel with an exploratory toe in the dark entrance, and press on boldly +if the hatch is down. Opening on to these somewhat dismal surroundings +is the cabin of Meares—the man of dogs and wild adventures in the Far +East. + +A large portion of the starboard side of the wardroom is occupied by the +“owner’s” cabin. Here are Captain Scott and Lieutenant Evans, the latter +taking charge of the ship on its voyage south. The four after cabins +(two on each side) are not quite so circumscribed as those of the +scientists, but they are the permanent quarters of the navigators, while +_nous autres_ are mere birds of passage, and will soon be scattered over +the face of Victoria Land. + +The ship was hove-to just outside Lyttelton Harbour, and one had leisure +to admire the wonderful coast-line of Banks Peninsula. Everything +indicates a late submergence of this part of New Zealand. Inland valleys +sloping _away_ from the coast—relics of a former topography—are laid +bare and chopped in half by the erosion of the waves. I strolled over to +the top of the ice-house, where one of the junior scientists was sitting +stoically among the dogs, and Lieutenant Pennell was bending over the +large standard compass which ornaments the ice-house roof. He said, “You +haven’t a knife on you, have you?” I proudly pulled out the bowie I’d +just bought with evil designs on Antarctic seals. He remarked, “You’ll +have to take that off. I’m swinging ship.” + +This consisted in rotating the ship as rapidly as feasible, meanwhile +taking timed observations on the sun to obtain true bearings. By this +means the total effect of the iron in the ship and stores on the magnet +of the compass was ascertained. On leaving Antarctica next year this +operation must be repeated. The aforesaid assistant was noting times +when the observer called out “Top!” The actual swinging occupied about +an hour, during which one could trace the devious track of the ship by +the circular wake over her stern. + +The Clerk of the Weather was kind to us, and our journey of thirty hours +from Lyttelton to Port Chalmers was peaceful and uneventful. The +farewell evolutions of Lieutenant Rennick on the poop-deck, whereby he +sent and received messages which apparently afforded him considerable +amusement, directed attention to the value of semaphore signalling in +the frozen south. Next day might be seen eminent scientists wildly +waving their arms according to the accepted code of the Boy Scouts. +Personally I prefer the Morse code, for it can be learned in ten minutes +by a dodge which may interest my readers as it did the Antarctic party. +Each sign is represented by a word or combination, which can readily be +associated with the letter required. In these key-words _dots_ are +represented by vowels and the isolated letters _s_, _z_, and _h_; +_dashes_ by the consonants (including _w_ and _y_). Thus A (dot, dash) +is _an_; B (dash, dot, dot, dot) is _base_; C is _cāve_; _die_, _e_, +_safe_, _gnu_, _hu̇sh_, _is_, _kit_, _aloe_, _Mr._, _no_, _PQR_, _Epps_, +_QRST_, _are_, _sss_, _t_, _usk_, _azov_, _awl_, _yell_, _bruz_. Of the +remaining letters J is the exact opposite of B and X of P. It was rather +a curious coincidence that both Dr. Simpson and myself became interested +in these codes through reading a tale, “Raymond Frezols,” years ago in +the good old _B.O.P._ + +At dusk on Sunday the 27th we entered the heads of Port Chalmers. This +is another drowned upland valley of a similar nature to Lyttelton +Harbour. The novices in the afterguard chose this opportunity to essay +the rigging. The scientists who had made the voyage from England lay out +along the yard in fine style, in a manner which seemed distinctly +precarious. Standing on a jumping “foot-rope,” and leaning over the +broad wooden surface of the yard, both hands can be used for furling the +sails. When the next sailor gets off the foot-rope the latter jerks up a +foot or more, so that this position one hundred feet above the water is +not one likely to attract a nervous person. On this particular occasion +it was too much for the hardy sailor man. The wind was dead astern, and +we were burning Westport coal—which is a tremendous soot-producer, +whatever its steam qualities are. As a result, a dense mephitic fog +enveloped every one, full of sulphurous fumes, with clinging clots of +soot. It was a weird spectacle to see the men working in what one might +call a “Hades in the Heavens”—while elsewhere the whole atmosphere was +calm and clear. Our photographer rushed out to try and get the effect, +but the wind shifted slightly, and the men had come down for a breather. +Soon they returned and made a “harbour stow” for the credit of the ship +and the gratification of the good folks of Dunedin. + +The most striking object in a polar exploring ship is undoubtedly the +crow’s nest. This is a large barrel, about four feet high, with a +rudimentary seat therein, and a floor which chiefly consists of a +trap-door. After a good dinner on Sunday evening—which I note consisted +of tinned bloater, sheep’s tongue, rhubarb, and blancmange, with jam and +potted meat (if the former edibles did not suffice)—I climbed up 150 +feet or so of ratlines and reached the crow’s nest. There are two +stories or landing-stages on the way, the “maintop,” about 60 feet up, +which is quite a large platform, immediately under the main yard. There +are two ways of reaching this—firstly, up the main ratlines, which bring +you right under the maintop, when it is necessary to claw out by a small +ladder—overhanging very unpleasantly at first—called the “futtocks.” The +other, simpler route—scorned by every true sailor, but very acceptable +at first—is an accessory lateral ladder, which gets there just the same. +Another pair of ratlines—the higher set a little to one side, as +before—lead to the next stage—the “crosstrees.” This is not a platform, +but a mere brace of horizontal beams. Another 30 feet and the crow’s +nest is reached. It is a scramble at first to get in. The trap-door is +lifted by one’s head, and then the difficulty I experienced was to get +my knees through, for the interior of an empty barrel does not afford +much of a grip. It is not used until the pack is reached, but is then +invaluable in tracing out the leads or lanes of open water, though, at +that height, it is almost impossible to tell whether a floe is one foot +or 20 feet thick. + +Wednesday (30th November) was our first day out of sight of land. +Shore-going suits were either sent back to Lyttelton from Port Chalmers +or stored away in tin trunks on board. Little will they be needed for +eighteen months or more. Fearful and wonderful were the rigs that +appeared. Caps were of all shapes and sizes, from a Stetson with a +back-strap to a red piratical nightcap. One member turned out in a +salmon-coloured knitted confection, which by various foldings could be +used as a cap, a cravat, or a purse (of the oldfashioned sausage shape). +Coats of all kinds clothed us. A black leather jacket with the fur +inside is much admired. This is worn by our Siberian traveller (Meares), +and is suitably accompanied by a sort of fur busby of fox-paw fur. +Norfolk shooting-coats are popular; one man braved the cold in a +light-textured serge suit, such as clerks wear by the thousand. But a +most welcome gift at the last moment of a hundred grey jerseys furnished +every man with a pair of beautifully warm garments that have in every +sense driven all else under cover. They are rather large, so that when +increasing cold necessitates more clothing this goes on under the grey +jersey. Nether garments soon became fairly uniform also. The special +Antarctic clothing is being kept till we land, but by most of us nothing +but the heavy corduroy trousers have been found thick enough to +withstand the cold since we crossed the Antarctic circle. These trousers +are extremely broad in the beam, rivalling a Dutchman’s. But at the +ankle they fit tightly when buttoned up, so that they resemble a giant’s +riding breeches worn by a dwarf! + +[Illustration: + + Map of Antarctica showing localities of recent expeditions. (1) + Campbell, 1911; (2) Campbell, 1912; (3) Taylor, 1902; (4) Taylor, + 1911; (5) Scott, January 18, 1912. Based on map from _Royal + Geographical Journal_, July, 1913. +] + +When Nelson ran short of thick breeches he made some by the simple +process of cutting out a kilt of dreadnought blanket, putting in two +brass eyelets and lashing it with string. As he had a red mob-cap, a +sweater, and long sea-boots, he stalked about for days a living +representation of Captain Kidd. + +The official breeches are adorned with bone soup-plate buttons which +displease some of the wearers, so that the bowie knives have come into +play and cut them off. Tastes vary with regard to knives. Experienced +men seem to prefer a shilling butcher’s knife with a rough wooden +handle; but the budding sailorman, if he has any money, cannot resist +the ornamental daggers, ranging to two feet in length, with highly +ornamental handles, cross-guards, and sheaths. For seal-killing these +are practically useless, for the cross-guard prevents a deep stab, which +is the speediest method of despatching the animal. + +There is much variation in footgear. Our Canadian wears “shoe-packs” or +soft-soled boots, with some resemblance to a polony in shape. During the +earlier part of our voyage in the “furious fifties,” every one used +sea-boots of leather, rubber, or leather and canvas. A local New Zealand +brand were very comfortable, though heavy, and so long that, as an +envious officer remarked, “they only needed braces to turn them into +trousers.” It seemed almost impossible to get wet in them, but in the +gales we discovered they were waterproof from the quantities of water we +poured out on changing them. This had all swept in from above, but was +just as wet as if it had soaked through in the normal manner! + +Every week increasing cold has led to a greater bulk of underclothing, +but little change is apparent in the outer man. With plenty of food, +plenty of blankets, and plenty of rope-hauling, the cold is hardly +noticed so far. + +The poop-deck was converted into a barber’s shop the first day outward +bound. Scissors were despised by the operators, who preferred +horse-clippers, with which they simply and thoroughly removed every +possible hair. Ponting (the photographer) has a specially close-cutting +pair of clippers, designed to trim off frosty beards on sledging trips, +and one officer was so pleased with the first cut that he was retrimmed +with the latter weapon. The result was very comic, and called forth +enquiries from ribald youths as to when he was likely to hatch out! + +We began the month of December with a spanking breeze in the most +favourable quarter. The fore and main masts were clothed in sails. There +is a huge boom on the mizen mast which swings over the poop-deck (as in +a yacht) when in use, and carries a spanker, but the alterations to the +poop and the presence of the funnel of the auxiliary engine so block the +sails, and indeed to some extent offer the same obstruction to the wind, +that our ship is to all intents and purposes a two-master. Howbeit, we +bowled to southward at a rate of nine knots. The average speed of the +engine is five or six knots, so that the sails were of great assistance. +Indeed, when little cargo is in the hold she has reached the respectable +speed or ten and a half miles per hour. + +[Illustration: + + How space was utilized on the steamer. +] + +Let us take a walk around the decks in their present crowded condition. +The last day of loading the supercargo announced that the engineer could +have “two inches of coal.” + +This amount is not quite so small as it might seem. It was found that +the ship was still two inches off her Plimsollmark (though one of the +advantages of being a Royal yacht, I believe, is that she is, to a +certain extent, freed from ordinary loading regulations), and as each +inch of loading represented nine tons, this meant an addition of +eighteen tons to our precious fuel. The most prominent cargo was, +therefore, this coal, in bags, which were laid wherever there was any +crevice to spare. The “waist”—as the deck between the elevated poop and +foc’sle is termed—was several bags deep where it was not occupied by the +huge motor sledges and cases and cases of petrol. Many bags were +deposited on the for’ard portion of the poop-deck. And over all sprawled +the dogs. Much of this deck cargo—including all the coal—would be +restowed later, the latter in the ship’s furnaces during the first week. +But “much water went over the bulwarks” (to misquote a proverb) before +we reached clear decks. + +Under the rising wind on the evening of the first, the water repeatedly +came in board, and the “afterguard,” comprising the non-nautical +officers, were set to the task for which their knowledge was adequate, +that of heaving coal sacks to the bunker manholes below the bridge. +Slippery decks, soaking sacks, and swamping seas—for the wind continued +to increase—made this by no means a pleasant task. It was often +necessary to haul the sacks right over the engine-room from one side to +the other of the ship. A sudden lurch and down would slip a leg between +two cases of petrol while the sack fell on one’s person, and “Peary” (or +“Cook”) assisted in the mêlée. One special mantrap consisted in the +stiffening beams connecting the roofs of the laboratories and the +deck-house. When the deck of the alley-way between was covered with +sacks of coal a man’s head was very liable to crash into these beams in +the effort to escape a sea. I had that misfortune several times, and our +headstrong Canadian friend’s score must have mounted well into the +’teens. + +Next day (the 2nd) the wind had veered to the west and south, and had +increased very greatly; in fact, we experienced a full gale. The ship +was hove-to for two days, and though we novices could see well enough +that things were very lively, we did not know how grave a risk we were +passing through. It was rather a rough breaking-in, for by this time our +cabins were swimming in water. At first I rather selfishly hoped that my +_lower_ bunk would be protected from the thirteen Niagaras flooding the +upper bunk by the floor of the latter; but as the storm increased in +violence both were soaked—blankets, tools, books, cameras, everything +except a foot or so at the head end. + +Early on Friday (the 2nd) it was obvious that not much more could be +done with the hand-pumps. The seas were incessantly washing over the +waist—where the pumps are placed at the foot of the main mast—and +burying the deck under several feet of water. Casks of petrol were +drifting about and staving in; the hammering on the port bulwarks was +tremendous, and it was a risky business to get from the poop to the +foc’sle. This was, of course, not unnatural in a gale, and would have +caused little anxiety beyond that consequent on conditions of heavy +lading and loose deck cargo. But it can be readily understood that water +was finding its way into the bilge by a hundred channels with the +constant sweeping of the decks by the waves. The poop was repeatedly +washed, giving the helmsman a tough time to keep her head in the right +direction. At this time the pumps all refused duty! A curious compound +of coal-dust and oil had formed into balls and pellets, which collected +in the bilge and choked both the hand and engine-driven pumps. But this +could not be cleared out because the bilge was feet deep in water; +moreover, the suction end of the hand-pumps could not be reached without +lifting the hatches, an impossible expedient under the circumstances. +Thus were we driven to a method almost unique with a ship of 750 +tons—that of bailing out with buckets! + +Day and night—in two-hour shifts—the bailing went on, until, luckily, +the gale moderated. A very strenuous time, which I never desire to +experience again. + +Down in the engine-room floor are some movable iron plates, which cover +a hole about two feet deep. Into this sump the bilge water and normal +leakage drains, and is pumped out with the greatest ease either by the +donkey-pump or by the hand-pumps. But during this gale the water was +nearly four feet deep, covering the whole floor of the engine-room from +side to side, and gradually creeping up till it was in the ashpits, only +an inch or two from the heated bottom plates of the boilers. If these +latter were reached there was great probability that they would buckle, +and practically ruin the boilers. Luckily there was no lack of unskilled +labour in the persons of the afterguard, and they assisted the stokers +by forming a chain from the bottom of the ship to the poop-deck. Three +iron ladders with two intermediate platforms led from the floor plates +to the open air, and a gang of a dozen men occupied this for twenty +continuous hours. + +[Illustration: + + Vertical section illustrating incidents in the great storm, January + 2–3, 1911. +] + +Outside was the sound of the booming gale shrilling through the shrouds +and ratlines in one continuous shriek. Cold waves washed over the +bridge, but luckily did not penetrate very rapidly through the +sou’-westers, oilskins, and thigh-boots worn by every one. But while the +upper end of the chain was in an Antarctic atmosphere, the heated waters +washing about the engine-room filled the latter with a steamy, oily +heat, so that several of the workers kept their clothes dry by leaving +them behind in their cabins. Down below the sound of the rushing waters +dashing from side to side with every oscillation of the ship was broken +only by a cry of “Water” as the chain of buckets went up, and “Empty” as +they descended rapidly to the bottom. Occasionally some one would raise +a chanty, which was sung vigorously until breath failed through swinging +up the heavy buckets. One of them was a shade heavier than the others, +and it was always a relief to be done with _that_ one for a brief space. +At the hatchway, luckily on the lee side, the end man held the empty +buckets to prevent them washing overboard. He was kept moderately warm +by the water from the emptying buckets, since being in the line of fire +he received most of it amidships, whence it trickled down inside his +boots, forming a novel mode of keeping the feet warm. + +Now and again would come a welcome cry of “Spell Ho!” and those below +would climb into the cool air, and those outside dive inside to thaw +themselves. Then to it again till five minutes before the watch ended, +when some one would be sent off to warn the relief. The relieved watch +turned in, into bunks soaking wet in many cases, and by the time one had +warmed up and snoozed a few minutes, there came a cry of “Turn out; your +watch!” However, by Friday night we were holding our own and gaining +slightly on the water. Meanwhile the engineers were working double tides +to cut a hole through the bulkheads so as to get at the lower end of the +hand-pumps. This was accomplished after many hours’ work, and with the +aid of a rat-trap the pumps were brought into use again. This humble +implement was shaped to cover the end of the pipe, and served admirably +to keep the coal-balls from clogging the valves. Soon sixteen men—eight +on each long crank handle—were clanking away despite the incoming waves, +and as the sea moderated the outrush from the hand-pumps assisted the +steam-pumps so that on Saturday afternoon the ship was practically dry. + +The toll of the gale was fairly heavy. Two of the ponies in the foc’sle +stalls had died of the buffeting and exhaustion; one dog had been washed +overboard; and the port bulwarks the whole length of the waist (about +thirty feet) had been badly damaged. The after-portion for two panels +(to use a landlubber’s term) had been torn out bodily, while for’ard of +that the planking was washed away, leaving only the framework. Personal +gear suffered greatly. Books and diaries in my bunk had been pulped, a +camera so warped as to be nearly useless, and several surveying +instruments, which I had placed in a canvas rucksack on the wall, ruined +or badly damaged. During the gale I had felt that the rucksack was quite +dry, but on clearing out the bunk a little later I found the bag +contained half a bucketful of a sort of “hoosh”—consisting of rusty +water, aneroids, compasses, and razors well mixed together! Waterproof +bags have their disadvantages under such circumstances. In the log the +gale is given the number 10, 12 being the maximum. We were unfortunate +in meeting with it so early in the voyage; but, now it is all over, one +is not sorry that for half an hour or so, in the words of Captain Scott, +it was touch and go. + + + + + CHAPTER III + LEARNING THE ROPES + + +Sunday (4th) is a calm, restful day. I think most people on board slept +well after the gale. “Rise and shine, Mr. Taylor, sir,” is the curious +reveillé of the steward at 7.30. I don’t know how we are to shine, for I +haven’t had a wash for three days, except a bucketful of sea-water +caught with my own (by no means) fair hands. Many of us have had all our +suits soaked, and as to-day is really sunny and almost warm, some queer +garbs are seen. One scientist reverted to a fashionable Tudor garb—to +wit, a long speckled knitted tunic reaching the knees, and a pair of +very long thick blue stockings! Now that the ship has stopped rolling +through 40°, it is possible to wedge oneself among the stanchions under +the deck-pump and obtain a bracing bath. But, as the gentleman who +occupies the cabin under the pump ungallantly objects to the water, so +to speak, killing two birds with one stone, and bathing _him_ also, we +are deprived of this pleasure, and revert to the even more chilly method +of heaving up buckets from the vasty deep. The deck-house balcony—an +enclosed strip of the poop overlooking the wardroom—forms our +dressing-room, and was invaluable during the gale as a changing stage +between the howling outer void and the snug wardroom below. + +The first duty was to secure the loose boxes and cargo. The coal sacks +were all emptied into the depleted bunkers, and the cases of petrol for +the motor sledges transferred from the poop further for’ard. + +A glance at the sketch-plan of the deck (p. 39) will show that the three +enormous cases containing the motor sledges were almost as large as the +permanent structure. Two of them, just in front of the main mast, help +to form the walls of a snug “hangar” or enclosure for the dogs. Large +tarpaulins overhang at the sides, and partly cover the central space; +and here the dogs are snugger than they are likely to be in Antarctica. +On the port side the broken bulwarks have been roughly barricaded by +ropes and planks; the narrow alley alongside being largely occupied by +spare timber and scantling, on which three or four other dogs are +chained. + +A prominent building is the ice-house, with a flat roof, on which are +two most important instruments and some half-dozen dogs. The ice-house +has walls a foot thick, and contains carcases of sheep, with, I believe, +just three of beef. It may well be believed that there is little need at +present (latitude 68°) for careful insulation; indeed, half a dozen +carcases have been preserved by hanging them in the rigging; alongside +some penguins, though the latter are not for food, but consecrate to the +taxidermist. Mention has been made of the standard compass—tested by +swinging the ship early in the voyage—by which the helmsman’s compass +and various others on board are verified. In the centre of the ice-house +is the range-finder—an historic instrument, which was used on the +_Scotia_ in her Antarctic explorations. It will be mentioned later, when +the icebergs are described. + +Merry are the meals we have in the wardroom. Gigantic meals; four per +diem, and one extra if you are on night-watch. Eight o’clock, twelve +o’clock, four o’clock tea, and 7.30 for dinner. Let me try and give some +idea of a dinner, say, on Saturday night. About three-quarters of an +hour beforehand the steward, who is dressed, as are the officers, in +grey jersey and corduroy trousers, appears with the remark, “Table, +sir!” This is a sign to clear off charts, calculations, diaries, and not +unusually novels, from the oilcloth, that he may set the table. If any +books are missing after this clearance it is safe to examine the +“nursery,” for our steward has a fixed idea that untidiness is a +characteristic of the latter cabin, and so deposits findings on the +pianola, whence they may emerge after many days. Tin mugs, bottles of +lime juice, ship’s biscuits—either captain’s or digestives—butter, and +enamel jugs of water are the table furniture. As the bell is jangled the +afterguard pour into the wardroom. Four men do not get seats, but if you +stand up the range of action is much greater, so that it really compares +favourably with a seat. Captain Scott seats himself in the office chair +at the head, and Lieutenants Evans and Campbell, if they are in time, +sit next him. Dr. Wilson (chief scientist) has a fondness for the stool +out of the pantry. I have a suspicion that his shrewd mind has realized +that this combines the comfort of the seat with the mobility of the +stander. The others sit where fancy lists; geologist next to pony +expert, chemist, and motorman, taxidermist, navigator, lord of the dogs, +doctors, etc., etc., each with his elbows lovingly exploring his +neighbour’s anatomy. Two of our ’Varsity men, from Cambridge and Oxford +respectively, prefer an elevated perch on a “sausage,” or clothes-bag, +at the far corners. Perchance thus they feel like dons at their college +high table. Enamel soup-plates are passed along, and the steward brings +in two enormous jugs of pea or tomato soup. Meanwhile requests—one might +say demands—of a nature strange to a landsman’s ears fly across the long +table. “Carry on with the bread, Marie!” “Give the butter a wind, Jane!” +(pronounced “wined”). “Belay with the biscuit!” “Where’s that drunkard’s +companion?” (This last remark, terrifying to a teetotaler, merely refers +to a knife with a _corkscrew_, a very precious possession.) I should +like to record the ship-names bestowed on my esteemed comrades, some of +whom rejoice in three or four synonyms, but forbear, for personally I +should hate it to be known that I—a staunch Imperialist—have +occasionally answered to the cry of “Keir Hardie.” + +Soup despatched, plates of roast mutton are handed out from the pantry, +with potatoes and beans, or some weird fibrous vegetable which was +originally kale, I believe. Limejuice is practically the universal +drink, and is extremely palatable. Indeed, this and the mutton and +butter are most excellent, while all the food is good. There follows +plum-duff, roly-poly, apple pie, or stewed fruits and blancmange, surely +the best sweets, if the homeliest, yet devised by cooks. By this time +hunger’s pangs are dying, and some one starts a chorus. We seem to +prefer choruses of a rousing nature, though “it doesn’t much matter what +words we sing, so long as the tune hath a right good swing.” For +instance, “Rings on her fingers,” etc. (or as the Canadian sings it, +“Fings on her ringers”), is very popular. “My name is Gertrude,” “Did +she plant a tiny seed of love in —— —— stony heart?” (with an honoured +member’s name inserted in the song) are always encored. Then, since it +is Saturday night, “Sweethearts and Wives” is drunk in something +stronger than the juice of the lime by about half the party. (I imagine +this toast does not appeal to the other moiety.) + +After dinner some dozen adjourn to the nursery for a concert. An upper +bunk forms the dress circle, the washstand is the royal box, and the +others crowd round the pianist. We have two flautists, two banjoists, +and an expert on the mandolin, but are badly off for pianists. However, +two of us can strum a little and are practising to eke out the +performance. At any rate, there’s no need for the piano except the final +chord of the bar, for the goodwill if not the execution of the other +performers is so great that the piano is lost. After an hour of +“Scottish Student,” the party disperse somewhat, except an enthusiast +who plays favourite music on the pianola. Certainly ours is a +quick-change programme; from “The Tarpaulin Jacket,” rather badly +strummed, to “Lohengrin,” as played in grand opera! + +By ten or eleven all but the watch have turned in, and we are one day +nearer the Pole. + +The 6th and 7th were days of dull weather, with some rain, and a wind +veering to south-west, but we made good progress under steam, with just +sufficient sail to keep her steady. As a matter of fact, in ordinary +weather, she is a very steady ship, and anticipations of five weeks’ +mal-de-mer have in my case not been realized in the slightest. All but +one unfortunate turned out throughout the gale—an heroic effort in the +case of two of the afterguard, who had no interest in the dinner-bell +for over a week. + +Indoor work perforce occupied us, except when the setting of sails +required volunteers at the ropes. I hesitate to describe this operation, +for up to the present I have not been able to distinguish the “main +weather braces” from the “fore to’gallant lee shrouds.” However, I am +busy learning them and the words of some of the chanties. + +One of the most popular describes the adventures of a mythical hero, +“Ranzo,” who “was no sailor” at the beginning of the epic, but being +taught navigation by an unusually affable captain, ends up by realizing +that proud position himself! The chorus, “Ranzo, boys, Ranzo,” is easily +remembered. Moreover, it is etiquette to pull only during the chorus. No +wonder the sailorman loves this chanty. At the conclusion of the hauling +some mysterious signal passes along the “centipede” of sailors, and the +experts let go, while the novice is jerked forward off his feet by some +one coiling the rope rapidly round the belaying pins. Then we troop back +to the wardroom, leave our oilskins and sea-boots in the “balcony,” and +resume our reading, writing, or embroidery. This last may seem unusual, +but was a fact. + +Many of the afterguard were provided with silken sledge flags given to +them by friends before leaving. Others had had them made in +Christchurch. One of the officers, nothing daunted by feminine and +professional examples, boldly set to work and evolved a fine one under +the jeers of his companions. The first sledge flags were carried in the +north on the Franklin Relief Expeditions, and they are all made on the +same pattern. They are three feet long and one foot wide, the end having +a triangular notch a foot deep. At the staff end is worked a square St. +George’s Cross (red on white) while any desired design, such as a +private crest, school shield or professional emblem, occupies the centre +of the flag. A cord or ribbon of appropriate colour runs all round the +flag. Some are very ornamental, and they will make a brave show down +south. A maple leaf, and a map of Australia are patriotic signs. A flash +of lightning adorns the meteorologist’s banner. Shields of the Cambridge +colleges are numerous, and several well-known schools, both in Australia +and England, are commemorated. + +Members of the party were soon seized by Dr. Levick in the interests of +science. He was armed with a wonderful array of slips of coloured +glasses, and with a simple telescope, across which the glasses could be +inserted. With these he examined the colour of all our eyes, for it is +maintained that there is a perceptible change in the iris after a +sojourn in polar regions. I do not suppose green eyes would change into +the more popular violet, but on our return we may find we have moved up +or down his scale of colours; just as one learned ethnologist declares +that the hardy Norsemen are Africans decolorised by a changed +environment! + +In the evening a few of the afterguard may bring out novels, but there +has been little time except a day or two in the Pack for this +relaxation. It is interesting to see how tastes differ. Some swear by +Conan Doyle and dislike Merriman. Others find the White Company tedious +(though they are rare) and revel in biography. One officer—with an eye +to the penguins may be—is carefully perusing the “Amateur Poacher,” +while all of us have studied the book on Ski-Running. A most acceptable +and suitable gift from Mr. Reginald Smith and others was a complete set +of those handy sevenpenny and shilling books containing almost all the +best English fiction of the last fifty years. They are well printed, +fairly strong and not so valuable that one needs to don a dress-suit to +read them. The strong book cupboard (now on the “balcony”) will be a +most welcome addition to our winter quarters during the long night. + +One problem, or set of problems, is engaging the attention of every +class of officer, be he doctor, biologist, or geologist. It is that of +field astronomy, for it is obviously essential that each sledging party +should be able to locate itself fairly accurately by the sun or stars +without reference to the natural features. The latter will probably be +uncharted, or—in the Barrier and plateau journeys—non-existent. It is +not a specially easy business, but bulks largely in exploration, and I +should feel proud if I can briefly explain the two simplest methods so +that a layman can follow them. + +_Latitude_ is distance (in angular measure) north or south of the +equator. The South Pole is 90°, and Melbourne 38° (subtended at the +centre of the earth). + +The sketch shows a vertical section through the earth, the polar +explorer being supposed at I in the midst of illimitable ice plains. The +position of the sun at midday is shown. With a sextant or theodolite he +measures the angle between the horizon (H_{1}H) and the sun (which +equals SOH). He knows the angle SOP; for this is given in the nautical +almanac for the time of the observation. Now the angle IOE is the +required latitude, and we have all the data needed to get it; as thus: +Latitude, IOE = IOS + SOE = (90° − SOH) + (90° − SOP) (_i.e._ a right +angle less altitude from sextant, added to a right angle less the +almanac angle). By this short calculation the explorer can tell his +exact distance from the equator; for a degree equals sixty-nine miles. + +[Illustration: + + The celestial triangle is shaded. The earth is to be considered a + point. +] + +But he does not know whereabouts is his position on this parallel of +latitude. To do this we require the _longitude_. All that is necessary +is to find the difference in time between that at Greenwich and the +local time (as shown by the sun) in the aforementioned illimitable +plain. A chronometer (a watch with a special compensation for +temperature changes) gives him Greenwich time; and the problem is to get +the exact local time and to transform the hours into degrees by +multiplying by fifteen (24 hours = 360°). Our next diagram is on a +larger scale. We have increased our spherical surface so that the sun +lies on its surface at S. A vertical line, OZ, above our explorer hits +this celestial sphere at Z. (The earth is really a mere dot at O +compared with this huge sphere.) + +Now we have a problem as clear as that involved in determining latitude. +The position of the sun (S) on the sphere’s surface is determined by the +intersection of two lines, PS and ZS. Of these PS is tabulated in the +almanac, and SZ, between the sun and the zenith (directly overhead), is +measured by the sextant. The remaining side PZ of the triangle PZS is +given by 90° minus the latitude EZ. Hence PZ the colatitude is known +from our previous calculation. Given three sides of a triangle (even if +it be on a curved surface), we can, as in Euclid, determine the angle at +the pole ZPS. But this angle is the angle between the required meridian +of longitude PZE and the longitude of the localities at that moment +experiencing midday. It is extremely simple to find out what the latter +longitude is, since we know Greenwich time from the chronometer. For +suppose our chronometer says it is seven in the morning at Greenwich, +then at this time it will be midday at 75° east (five hours difference) +at Bombay. If our angle ZPS turns out to be 100° under these conditions +(and we know it is midday at Bombay), our longitude is 75 + 100, or +175°; about that of Cape Crozier. + +I feel rather proud of this explanation. I have never seen the problems +so described before, and it has passed the critical review of a +navigator. May it help every reader who may chance to be lost with a +sextant and nautical almanac! + +After the gale the dogs took some time to recover their normal spirits. +We had heard that the Peary dogs were huge, ferocious beasts, ready to +eat a man on sight. But they tamed down wonderfully, and, truth to tell, +seem somewhat afraid of the stockier Siberian horde. It is prophesied +that they will fall victims to the latter when shore fighting starts, +and consequently they may be sent with the Edward VII. Land (or eastern) +party. They are fed on biscuits, and (lately) on seal meat, and are +certainly not kept very hungry, for one often sees a little food left. +Poor Osman, the leading dog, was very sick after the gale, and was +accommodated with some straw in an iron washing-dish. In this he curled +up snugly, and recovered in a few days. The ponies and dogs consume +about 80 per cent. of the drinking water; but the latter were not so +thirsty as expected, so that for some days each officer was allowed +about as much as a dog in his cabin! Of course, with special soaps it is +possible to get off a certain amount of grime with salt water, but fresh +water is a great treat. + +There are several pets on board. Firstly, a beautiful collie, who spends +her time in the foc’sle, snuggled in some sacks. Then there’s “Niggsy,” +the cat, “that walks,” as Kipling says. Imperturbable, as usual, he +tolerates fulsome fondling, and escapes as soon as may be. Smaller fry +in the shape of rabbits and a guinea pig accompany us. Early in the +voyage one of the rabbits seems to have challenged a pony to mortal +combat. At any rate, its flattened carcase was found in the stall. Poor +piggy inhabited a cigar-box on occasion, and this was carelessly dropped +overboard one day, so that unless a crab-eating seal carries him there +he will never reach Antarctica. + +During the next few days the geologists were busy discussing the first +sub-expedition in Antarctica. It will probably be of interest to readers +to know how the amount of sledging stores is arrived at. It is a problem +almost as intricate as a determination of longitude! The first factor to +be considered is _time_. We will work backwards. The middle of March is +getting very cold and dark, and this fixes the end of sledging. The +_venue_ of the proposed survey lies around Mount Lister, across MacMurdo +Sound, and towering some 13,000 feet (see Map at end). Here, near Butter +Point, three scientists (and perhaps one other officer) and a sailor +will be landed from the ship as soon as possible after the winter +quarters are well started. This may be about the 20th of January. The +_time_ factor is therefore two months. + +Our programme will be approximately as follows:—To leave the ship at +Butter Point and march two days up the Ferrar Glacier to Descent Pass. +Here we depôt four weeks’ provisions, and push on with two weeks’ to the +Dry Valley, which we explore and map. Meanwhile the ship has made +another depôt (near the Dailey Isles) of a fortnight’s stores, which we +pick up on the 1st of March. So that we have to carry with us from the +ship only _six_ weeks’ provisions, and of this only four weeks will need +to be moved over long distances. So much for the distance factor. + +A man can drag 200 lbs.; there are five men in the party, and the time +is six weeks. Two pounds of food per man per day is roughly 12 lbs. a +day for the party, giving a total of 500 lbs. food. One gallon of oil +will last five men for a week and weighs with its tin 10 lbs. Hence for +six weeks, say 70 lbs. oil. + +Now for equipment. Two sledges weigh 130 lbs.; one tent, 35 lbs.; five +sleeping-bags, 65 lbs.; finneskoes (shoes, etc.), total 50 lbs.; +cookers, 25 lbs.; ropes, repair tools, ice-axes, a spade, etc., total 70 +lbs. Finally, since we shall have much rock work and hard glacier ice, a +pair of Day’s under-runners for the sledges—made of =Ꭲ= steel—will be +carried. They weigh 40 lbs., and the equipment amounts to 400 lbs. in +all. + +Instruments are essential, and weighty. One of the five-inch +theodolites, specially built for the expedition, only weighs 11 lbs. +Thermometers (two), aneroids (three), clinometers (two), hypsometers +(one), prismatic compasses (three), hammers and chisels will add 40 lbs. +to our load. For personal gear (tobacco, diaries, socks, etc.), one is +allowed 10 lbs. each, totalling 50 lbs. Cameras and oddments, 30 lbs. +Now let us see how the grand total stands:— + + lbs. + Food 500 + Fuel 70 + Sledges, etc. 400 + Instruments 40 + Personal gear 50 + Cameras, etc. 30 + ———— + 1090 lbs. + +to be discharged from the ship at Butter Point. This, it will be seen, +nicely balances the pulling power of five men, which (at 200 lbs. each) +equals 1000 lbs. The party live day and night in the clothes they start +off in, so that there is no load due to blankets or change of clothing. +Non-smokers are, however, advised to carry a pair of socks instead of +Navy Cut among their personal gear. + +At any time now we might expect to see icebergs and the pack. From New +Zealand we had been accompanied by albatrosses and petrels. During the +gale it was almost comic to glance overboard during a rest from the +bailing, and watch the sea-birds swinging to and fro over the angry +waves or even settling down on them. With perfect unconcern they +carefully tuck in their wings and float quite comfortably in strong +contrast to our position. On the 8th Dr. Wilson hung out a snare-line +from the mizen shrouds. It was merely a long looped thin wire, without +hook or bait. Soon one of the Antarctic petrels, as it swung back and +forth in the wake of the ship, was caught in the snare and pulled in to +join the zoologist’s collection. The bird was dark brown with a white +breast and a particularly fierce action with its pointed beak. So our +assistant zoologist discovered when he posed before the camera and was +requested to let the bird look pretty! The most curious feature was the +central nostril in the form of a bone tube over the beak. This is the +characteristic of the petrels and distinguishes them from the +albatrosses. + + + + + CHAPTER IV + BLOCKED BY THE PACK ICE + + +On the evening of the 8th in latitude 63° 30′ we saw our first icebergs. +We were just starting dinner when news was brought, and the soup looked +tempting. So many times had “Wolf” been cried, that not a man moved! +However, later some of us climbed the main rigging and far away in the +east we could see two silvery pyramids glistening in the setting sun. +Not even a fortnight’s blockade in the pack has damped our admiration of +the icebergs, and I shall have much to say of their striking beauty. + +Early on the 9th of December we entered the zone of pack-ice. On the +horizon was an enormous fragment of the Great Barrier, probably three +miles long, and one of the largest ever seen by those on board who knew +these regions well. It was a tilted berg, so that the upper surface +sloped considerably to the north. Most of these bergs float off from the +Barrier in the shape of huge bricks. In this form they are known as +tabular bergs. It often happens that large fragments of the lower +surface break away, and in that case there is a readjustment of the +flotation line, and the berg tilts over—as in the tilted example just +quoted. Often the old flotation line is exposed on the side of these +bergs as a furrow or line of caves cut by the waves. Still other bergs +exhibit _pinnacles_ and hummocks. It may be that these have actually +turned turtle, or possibly they may be from shore _glaciers_, which have +received ice debris from overhanging cliffs. Another group exhibit a +broad _domed_ surface sloping gradually from the centre. These are +particularly difficult to explain, for neither the barrier nor the +glaciers exhibit a surface of this nature, and it is difficult to see +how it could have arisen after the berg left the parent body of ice. +They may represent the large undulations seen in glacier tongues. + +There had been little so far which came into the province of geology, +but from this time forward the three geologists (Priestley, Debenham, +and Taylor), and the physicist (Wright) formed an “Iceberg Watch.” Day +and night since the 9th every berg in sight has been noted and +catalogued as tabular, domed, tilted, or pinnacled. All within three +miles have been sketched and many photographed. Their distance has been +determined by the range-finder, and their height by the sextant. + +The range-finder is a tube four feet long, containing a prism at each +end and an eyepiece in the centre. The instrument is mounted on a heavy +rotating standard, and the observer looks into the _side_ of the +instrument (as it were across the middle), and not lengthwise as in a +telescope. Through one prism appears the image of the upper half of the +berg, through the other prism (which can be rotated on a vertical axis) +the image of the lower half of the berg. Obviously, if the object is +very far away, the rays of light constituting these two images are +nearly parallel. If the berg is nearer, the movable prism must be +twisted inwards to make its image fall correctly under that of the fixed +prism. (From the end prisms it is a simple matter to deflect the images +again into the same central eyepiece.) The amount of rotation of the +right-hand prism measures the distance of the object. + +A somewhat similar optical arrangement is made use of in the sextant. +Here, however, a mirror image of one object is made to coincide, by +moving an arm of the sextant, with the direct image of another object. +The _angle_ between the two objects—say the top and bottom of a big +berg—is thus obtained. We have found the distance by the range-finder, +and by a simple calculation can get the height in feet. The sextant will +also give the angular _width_ of the berg, and as we know the distance, +as before we can find the width in feet. + +Within a few hours of the first icebergs we reached the pack-ice. At +first a few solitary spongy pieces of ice only a foot or two across, and +so tumbled and broken by the waves that we were doubtful if they were +not fragments of one of the bergs in the offing, rather than outliers of +the true pack. But by noon we were cutting through it, and from that +time it got thicker and more formidable as we penetrated southward. In +this region (65° S.) it lay in long streaks across our path about a +quarter of a mile wide, and broken by lanes of clear water. After a +heavy snowstorm at sea one finds the snow collecting into similar belts +across the direction of the wind. The floe was here composed of pieces +of ice about twenty feet across, and varying in thickness from one to +three feet. These have just the appearance of pancakes coated thickly +with icing sugar. The rounded outline is caused by the floes rubbing +against each other, and as a consequence the edges are often slightly +upturned. The contrast of the dark water with the dazzling floes is very +striking. Imagine Gargantuan sugared pancakes floating in a sea of +Stephens’ “blue-black” ink, and you will get an idea of the +colour-scheme of a field of young pack-ice. + +As the boat hits this soft stuff there is a hustling and a surging, as +one large piece collides with another, or even overrides it. Sheets of +water sweep across the floes, and freeze almost immediately. The wake of +the ship for a short time remains open, but soon the floes reassemble, +and not for weeks do we see a horizon of clear water. Occasionally a +floe turns turtle, and these deeply pitted lower surfaces of clear ice +are very different from the level snowy surfaces of the undisturbed +pack. The spongy floes on the northern edge of the great pack assume +queer shapes. Here floats a large hollowed fragment like a waterlogged +boat, whose sides project several feet above the water. There is a white +cockatoo sitting on a log, with his crest angrily upraised. The crest +might readily have been dyed yellow—though veracity compels me to admit +it was not—for in places patches of intensely yellow ice, stained by +microscopic plants (diatoms), are numerous. Again a swan sails proudly +by, moulded in snow-white floe; while another bears the figure of a +woman with hands outstretched in mournful supplication. + +We have met the pack some fifty miles north of previous expeditions. We +started a month earlier than Shackleton; but the _Morning_, only a week +later, hardly saw any pack at all! + +At two o’clock on the 9th there were twenty-seven bergs around us, +mostly of tabular form. As we proceeded south the number of bergs +steadily decreased until none were visible on some days, though usually +three or four were in sight. This is but what one would expect. The +greater part of the heavy floe and nearly all the bergs have drifted +north before the southerly gale from the Barrier. The bergs would be +more affected by the wind than the low-lying floes, and so would take +the lead in this pilgrimage to the north. A month later nearly all this +pack will break away, and the entry to Ross Sea—which is an open sheet +of water even in December—can be made without difficulty or delay. Thus, +in the place of the fortnight we have taken, this belt between 65° and +69° could, under more favourable conditions, be traversed in two or +three days. + +For the benefit of the cinematograph, we took the ship close to a +tabular berg which lay close to our course. From the crow’s nest the +officer of the watch was able to see the submarine ice-foot, projecting +like a battle-ship’s ram from the lower portion of the berg. The visible +part of the berg was about three hundred feet long and some seventy feet +high. + +Along the water’s edge were several large caves, excavated by the waves +and coloured a vivid blue. A most interesting feature was that the +layers of the ice were horizontal in the upper thirty feet, but quite +steeply sloping in the lower visible layers. This pointed to some change +in position during the growth of the Barrier from which this berg was +calved. There was, in fact, what geologists would term a “strong +unconformity.” “Iceberg” is a loose term to apply to these Barrier +fragments; for they are largely consolidated layers of snow, and one can +detect almost every type of material, in the series from coarsely +granular snow to true ice, in one or other of the bergs. + +On the 10th, at 5 a.m., we crossed the Antarctic circle (66° 23′) and +reached the lands (and seas) of the midnight sun. For two reasons I +stayed up to welcome him. Firstly, because I had not had the pleasure +before, and, secondly, because I had to. My particular portion of the +watch lies between the hours of 8 p.m. and midnight—the best watch, in +my opinion. One has not to turn out of a comfortable blanket as in later +watches, and can share in all the incidents of the day, from which +officers on watch are debarred. + +The time is 11.45 p.m. I am sitting on the foc’sle with unbuttoned coat +and no gloves. When there is no wind one does not feel at all cold. It +is perfectly bright; not only light, but so bright that the sun’s rays +through the cabin portholes below are too strong on one’s book. In the +south-east is a low bank of grey-purple cloud, whose lower edge is +turned into a vivid golden ribbon by the never-setting sun. We are +threading through lanes between floes some four feet thick. Sometimes we +move bodily through the ice. Occasionally she strikes a floe, on which +our ironshod bow makes no impression. High above us the officer on the +watch cries out, “Starboard, one turn.” From the poop comes the answer, +“Starboard it is, sir,” and our ship sidles her way to port. (This +paradox is a relic of the days of the tiller.) She reaches a crack at +the side of the obdurate floe, and slowly creeps towards the golden +clouds. Far ahead of us two geysers shoot suddenly into the tranquil +air. They appear again to the west and mark the path of two whales. +Around the ship circle two or three snowy petrels, beautiful little +birds that resemble white swallows and never appear north of the pack. + +Let us climb into the crosstrees—an unpleasant task with ungloved hands +in any but a calm like this. All around us lies the pack, no longer like +pancakes, but much thicker, and resembling shortcake (to keep to homely +similes). In plan it has been compared to the pattern of our wardroom +tablecloth, that white mackintosh crossed by irregular meandering blue +lines. In the west the moon is reflected deep down in the still, dark +water. To the north the heavens are crossed by arcs of salmon-coloured +clouds, under which we passed several hours ago. The sea is coloured a +vivid brownish-pink between us and the northern horizon. It has an oily +sheen, which reminded me of nothing so much as the appearance of soft +putty—though I fear this is not a very artistic comparison. Looking back +on our course, we seem to have left a long dark line extending +indefinitely to the north. This is the Antarctic shadow of the sun, for +we are steaming straight for the latter. By this time we can notice a +perceptible increase in the elevation of the sun. At home he sets in the +west and rises in the east. In these regions both events may be +described as occurring in the south. Eight bells has just sounded and my +watch is over. + +[Illustration: + + ICING SHIP IN THE PACK ON THE STARBOARD QUARTER, DEC., 1910. + + The lifeboat was carried away in the gale of March, 1912. The carcases + in the rigging are New Zealand sheep. The bridge, protected by high + canvas screens, is visible behind the lifeboat. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE NORWEGIAN DINGHY OR PRAM RETRIEVING BIRDS IN THE PACK ICE, DEC., + 1910. + + The ship is fastened by the cable to the pack-ice. +] + +On our second day in the pack the floes had become much thicker, and +soon after breakfast we heard the cry, “All hands on the floe to take in +water.” The ice anchor—a large bar of iron bent like a rough +fish-hook—was fixed in the floe, and stout ropes looped round projecting +hummocks. This particular floe, in the place of being perfectly flat, +and only a few inches above the level of the sea, was covered with large +blocks of ice some four feet long and two feet or three feet through. A +fragment of these blocks when tasted was found to be sweet, so that +here, five hundred miles from Antarctica, we had an abundant supply of +water, not only for the boilers, but also for drinking purposes. +Probably these fresh-water blocks had dropped on the floe from some +disintegrating berg—for the latter, as explained previously, were +originally beds of snow. + +The ship, with its attached floe, drifted gradually to the east, and a +merry scene, lasting some hours, now took place. A sloping board was +placed against the ship’s side, and from this a stout plank led some +distance over the floe. With pickaxes and crowbars the crew and +afterguard attacked the ice blocks. These had a bad habit of splitting +into useless crescent-shaped fragments, but sometimes the crowbars would +wedge off a piece the size of a cabin trunk, and this could then be +broken into fragments of the size of a football with ease and celerity. + +The surfaces of smooth ice were very slippery, and led to several +grievous tumbles which awakened more merriment than sympathy. +Occasionally, in prospecting for a fresh quarry, the pioneer’s foot +would slip through the floe, and he would realise with a shudder that +_terra firma_ lay 11,784 feet below him. (We sounded, with this result, +earlier in the day.) However, such slips led to nothing but wet clothes, +and they were not sufficiently novel to excite remark. A chain of men +led from the quarrymen to the plank, and blocks were tossed along to +slide from the plank to the wooden ramp, and up this with a +“Yo-heave-ho” to the deck. Nearer labourers would send their +contributions hurtling through the air, with a warning cry of “Fore!” +that was not always heard. This animated scene attracted our +cinematographer, and his battery opened on us while the sport waxed fast +and furious. In the open lanes around the floe our Norwegian dinghy (or +pram) was manœuvring, retrieving birds shot by the zoologists from the +poop. Nearly a dozen were shot for museums without difficulty, for the +innocent creatures continued to swoop around the ship in spite of the +havoc wrought upon their companions. When some half-dozen tons of ice +had been collected, we cast loose from the floe—now levelled like its +neighbours—and steamed to southward. The blocks of ice were gradually +transferred to melting-tanks over the engine-house, and gradually the +whole heap was converted into water. + +Now that our environment had so changed, we met with a different and +much more interesting fauna. I have mentioned the snow petrel, and on +the same day we first met the Adelie penguins and the Crab-eater seal. +We have seen plenty of penguins since, but I shall never forget the +forerunner. He waddled towards us exactly like a tiny child learning to +walk, who runs quickly to his mother, knowing that a topple at the end +does not matter. Then he would stop and flap his wings (I was going to +say arms), and bow and turn his head around in a most human and +unbirdlike way. The most striking feature, I think, was the stiff little +tail which he dragged on the ground, and which probably helped to +support him. It is formed of a few stiff black feathers, consisting of +little but the quill, and adds to the comicality of the bird. The +colouring of pure white breast and black back reminds one of a stout +little man in a swallow-tail coat and white shirt—both much too big for +him! + +At three in the afternoon I heard our battery of guns in full action, +and rushing up on deck found that a family of four seals had met their +doom in the interests of science and of the kitchen. A few hundred yards +away lay three of the seals dead in their tracks, but one poor beggar +had crawled to another floe before receiving a fatal bullet. Several +lanes of blue-black water separated the floes, but the pram was quickly +put overboard, and six of us made for the seals. A hawser on to a +hummock on the smaller floe brought the latter near the ship, and then +we dragged the large crab-eater (eight feet six long) to the ship’s +side, where she was hoisted on board by the crew. Then a short passage +in the pram brought us to the other floe, and a similar proceeding +enabled us to get the rest aboard also. + +Of the four specimens only one was a male, and he was not full grown. +The largest female was over nine feet long. In colour they were a dirty +yellow-brown above and paler below. The young seals were prettily +dappled. All four had cruel scars a foot or more long on their flanks, +some barely healed, which were due to the attacks of killer-whales. No +one seems to know why they are called crab-eaters, unless perhaps +because they never eat crabs. Their chief food consists of small +shrimp-like animals called _Euphausia_, which they devour in great +quantities. The shrimps live on the yellow diatoms which encrust the +lower surface of the floes. The seals have rather large, strong teeth, +but these are of little use to them, and are a relic of bygone days when +the seal had hind legs like his cousin the otter. Very sinuous and +graceful is a seal in its native element, but on the ice its method of +progression can hardly be called beautiful. It wriggles along with rapid +undulations of its body, more like a large slug than a mammal. In death +this floppiness of structure—I know no more expressive word—made it +difficult to handle the weighty carcases. Before skinning they were +carefully measured by Dr. Wilson and Cherry-Garrard. Clad in overalls +and armed with keen knives, the two set to work, and soon separated the +skin and blubber from the carcases. In these seals the blubber formed a +continuous firm white layer about an inch thick, though in the Weddell +seals further south it is often much thicker. + +The skeletons as well as the skins are to be preserved for museums. As +much flesh is cut off the bones as possible, and the remainder gradually +dries into a sort of “biltong,” and has no smell. The flesh was served +to the dogs, who soon got to like it, while the livers were cooked for +the wardroom, and tasted most uncommonly good, even in our present state +of plenty. I can well imagine how a returning sledge party looks forward +to seal’s liver at headquarters. + +Next day Dr. Wilson rigged up a “flensing” table for freeing the skins +of the blubber. It is a wooden arrangement, very like a large +saddle-tree, forming a handy sloping surface on which the skin lies +while the blubber is pared away. The blubber was commandeered by Dr. +Atkinson for his patent blubber stove, which is going to help warm the +hut down south. The blubber is fed into a tin dish surrounding the +chimney of the stove. Here it gradually melts and runs down a narrow +pipe, which enters the stove and is curved over the floor of the latter. +Out of this curved “burner” the oil drips continually, and gives a hot +flame. The waste heat passes up the chimney, and renders more of the +blubber; and so the operation proceeds. Of course some coal is used at +first to warm the blubber-melter, but thereafter it seems to burn well, +and certainly gives off very little smell. + +During the past few days the “iceberg watch” has been kept very busy. +All shapes and sizes of bergs have we passed, giving rise to many +arguments as to their mode and place of origin. + +[Illustration: + + Icebergs seen December 8, 9, 10, 1911, latitude 22° 5′. A. Showing + vertical points; B. Probably overturned tabular; C. Tilted tabular + with fine caves; D. Faulted tabular berg. +] + +One of the most interesting bergs was about a mile long, and had +originally been tabular. All along the face were enormous vertical +cracks (“joints”) broadening into sea-caves below. These had split the +berg into columns and it was wonderful how it held together. Probably +the portion under water had not been eroded by the waves, and still +remained fairly solid. At each end was an isolated pillar a hundred feet +away from the main mass, and one was over a hundred feet high. It +exactly resembled the classic geological example of coast weathering +“The Old Man of Hoy,” a detached piece of sandstone in the north of +Scotland. The similarity was really not wonderful, seeing that the +method of sculpture on jointed material was identical. Another irregular +berg reminded us of a boar’s head in profile. Two pinnacles formed the +ears and a cave represented the eye. This specimen was probably an +overturned tabular berg. A tilted berg was crossed by cracks, which had +led to “faulting.” The ice between two cracks had slipped down and a +beautiful “fault valley” was the result. These examples of what has +happened on a larger scale in the earth’s crust were very interesting to +the geological members of the party, and are preserved in photographs or +as sketches. Debenham has made a series of pen and ink drawings which +are especially illustrative of their structure. + +[Illustration: + + A QUIET SUNDAY EVENING ON THE _TERRA NOVA_. + + From a sketch by D. Lillie. +] + +Later in the day a travelling troupe of four penguins entertained us. We +first saw them a few floes away, engaged in a sort of minuet. First they +would meet in pairs, and then all crowd together, and after some setting +to partners they waddled towards us. Soon they came to a break in the +floe, and one ran along it till he saw an edge free from ice-frost. Then +they dived in “follow my leader,” and came up with a “plop,” all +standing, on the next floe. One after another they shot up a couple of +feet and came down erect with a bounce. By this time they had approached +the ship, and formed up in line uttering an occasional squawk like a +crow. We threw down a potato and a lump of coal. Two tackled each +article, and much confabulation ensued. The coal partners summoned the +potato people to a consultation, and when they of the vegetable were +fully engaged the other pair quietly sneaked their property. Penguins +are very human. + +On the 11th we were held up all night by the pack, and this experience +occurred but too often in the next fortnight. Let us glance around and +see how the afterguard spend this enforced leisure. Dr. Wilson is seated +on a box in the chief cabin, turning out water-colour sketches of birds +and icebergs. A cry of “Crab-eaters on the port quarter” is raised, and +up rushes “Dr. Bill” with notebook and rifle, ready to use either on the +potential specimen. Nelson is dragging in a large tow-net, in which he +captures medusæ and Euphausia and other wild fowl. Secluded in his +laboratory Lillie divides his attention between the microscope and a +series of extremely clever caricatures of the afterguard, each of which +arouses uproarious merriment in every member save one. Drake is busy +transcribing the ship’s logs, both general and meteorological, and +usually manages to annex a large portion of the wardroom table in the +process. Alongside him Dr. Simpson works out his interminable magnetic +observations. Lieutenant Gran, our Norwegian companion, is busy getting +the ski from the forehold and supplying them with the necessary straps. +On the poop Meares discourses of dog-harness in a weird sounding +language to the Russian grooms. Cherry-Gerrard is skinning penguins and +wrapping the skins neatly in brown paper. The carcases are handed over +to the cook and appear as a pilau at dinner. Day is busy with chamois +leather, coloured glasses and a cutting board, manufacturing spare +snow-goggles. His articles are in much request, for they are more +comfortable than the official pattern. Lieutenant Pennell is in the +crow’s nest, peering ahead to pick out a possible lane through the thick +floe. + +In the port after-cabin are held the mysterious consultations of the +officers of the Eastern Party. It is rumoured that there is a capacious +private store in which all unclaimed articles are deposited for their +future benefit. But this is only a base libel, aroused by the orderly +character of Lieutenant Campbell. Priestley’s previous experience is +invaluable to the party. In the foc’sle Major Gates and Dr. Atkinson are +examining the ponies, all of which are doing very well since the gale. +Ponting selects choice compositions for pictorial photography, and +commandeers idle officers to lend life to his studies by disposing +themselves gracefully in the rigging. Debenham is profiting by Dr. +Wilson’s hints, and fulfilling his duties as honorary illustrator to the +iceberg watch. Wright is still engaged on his huge ice microscope, +endeavouring to cut down its ample proportions in readiness for our +forthcoming western expedition. From the “Nursery” come the dulcet tones +of the pianola, under the soulful touch of Lieutenant Rennick. The other +officers are on watch, or perhaps enjoying a well-earned snooze in their +respective cabins. + +[Illustration: + + D. LILLIE—SHIP’S BIOLOGIST. + + With Ophiuroidea from the dredge. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE NORTHERN FRINGE OF THE PACK ICE, SHOWING THE WAKE OF THE SHIP + THROUGH OPEN PACK, DEC. 10, 1910. + + [_See p. 58._ +] + +There are many features of interest which we can study during our +enforced stay in the pack, in addition to the fauna. We have been able +to obtain some half-dozen soundings in this portion of the Southern +Ocean, and to make current measurements. Great also have been the +achievements in ski-running under Lieutenant Gran’s tuition. The +sounding apparatus consists of an iron pipe about a foot long containing +a valve. This is connected to several miles of piano wire, and an iron +weight carries the apparatus to the bottom, where it is released by a +trigger so as to involve less labour in hauling up the valve-pipe. A +small telegraph winch is mounted on the port bow, and here the +afterguard in batches of six have spent many profitable hours winding up +miles of piano wire. Samples of the bottom are caught by the valve. +Reversing thermometers and water-bottles, bringing up samples of water +for analysis, all these are hung at intervals along the wire. On almost +every occasion small fragments of volcanic ash have been collected, +which seems to imply that this forms a constant deposit. There are many +small foraminifera shells (_Orbulina_) in the mud, which can be made out +under the microscope. + +[Illustration: Sounding Compass enlarged] + +The current-meter is a more unusual instrument, and is a Norwegian +invention. It consists of a small fan-wheel arrangement, which is +rotated by the current, and which actuates some clockwork recording the +velocity. At the back project two large vanes, which turn the apparatus +always to face the current. But most interesting is the method of +obtaining the direction of the current. A compass-box is attached under +the fan-wheel, and the area beneath the needle is divided into radial +compartments. The south arm of the needle has a groove cut along its +upper surface, and little metal balls, released by the clockwork, fall +on to the centre of the needle at regular intervals, and run down the +sloping needle into that one of the radial compartments which is +immediately beneath. + +On drawing the apparatus to the surface—where the large directing vanes +give it the appearance of a huge dragon fly—the angle between the fixed +vanes and the compartments containing the balls gives the deviation of +the current from true north. This investigation was usually carried on +through a hole cut in the floe alongside; a derrick, consisting of three +oars lashed together, leading the wire to the winch on the ship. + +On the 14th we tied alongside a floe of some three acres. Another ice +quarry was opened up for water, but on completion of this duty almost +every one proceeded to ski, or in current parlance (à la Gran) to go +“mit dee shee op.” We have for a week or more been wearing the +comfortable ski-boots. They are furnished with a deep and broad sole +around which the ski-strap is locked with a patent latchet. The toe is +rigidly fixed in an iron clamp with an over-strap, but the heel can lift +up and down off the ski. I suppose every one has a general idea of the +ski (which word is pronounced _shee_). The chief requisite is that the +wood shall be strong and straight in grain. Our “Chips” has made some on +board which answer very well. The others were brought from Norway by +Lieutenant Gran. They were smaller and simpler as regards straps than +the New Zealand and Kosciusko samples. + +We learned from Gran that a knock-kneed man has the advantage in +ski-ing; at any rate we had to keep our knees together to counteract a +tendency of the ski to spread. Gran flapped along like an Atalanta on +pattens, but beginners need to go more cautiously, and not lift the ski +at all. We made a course all round the floe about three-quarters of a +mile in length, and several of us did five miles or so. It would have +amazed our friends at home to have seen us far south of the Antarctic +circle spending an hour on the ice clothed in nothing but a thin vest +and breeches. In this garb we were pleasantly cool, but after returning +to the ship a couple of thick jerseys and a coat were soon donned. When +I was half round the third lap on the further side of the floe I heard a +loud snorting, and looked into the water to see a whale just sinking out +of sight about fifty feet away. Occasionally a seal would put his head +on the edge of the floe, and blow through his nostrils at us before +sinking gracefully beneath the ice. + +Sometimes we were not so fortunate in our ski-ing surface. At our next +block the floe was very mushy, and water immediately oozed into a hole +scraped an inch or two below the surface. This did not matter much as +far as ski-running went; I mean it was possible to cross it. But if one +came a “cropper,” as was but too usual in our party of novices, the +sudden shock and decrease in the bearing surface resulted in rather +dangerous cracks, and in a dolorous soaking. Towards evening the +surfaces often hardened appreciably. Of course the best section of +ski-work—that of coasting down slopes—was impossible on the floes. We +tried to coast down little hummocks, but I gave up this pastime after +smashing my ski-stick in a crevice covered with snow. + +Meares had out the dog sledges on the large floe, and harnessed eight of +the dogs to the single rope-trace. They pulled vigorously, and were +guided solely by voice, “ka” meaning “to the right,” and “chui” “to the +left.” An unlooked-for happening, however, spoilt their good record. +Cherry-Gerrard had caught two penguins, and was carrying them to the +ship, when the dogs caught sight of him, and bolted for the penguins. +Then might have been seen a noble panorama: Dr. Wilson hanging on the +rope ladder over the deep water to receive the penguins, Cherry fleeing +for his life, the dogs tearing after him at their top speed, in spite of +the efforts of Meares on the rocking sledge; our honoured commander +roughly upset as he tried to stop the procession, and Gran flapping +along on his ski to be in at the death. + +On the 18th we reached some fairly open water. I went on iceberg duty at +8 p.m. as usual. There was nothing to report until nine, when we +approached thicker pack. We had been moving at what seemed lightning +speed after our week’s wait. Gran and I were watching a floe bumped by +the ship. The nearer half sank under the blow, and then rose as we +passed. In the middle of the floe was something kicking violently. We +yelled out, “Fish oh!” and as we have not been able to catch any in +Antarctica so far, this small specimen, less than a foot long, roused +much excitement. It was of slaty-blue colour, and had been caught by the +uprising floe. Captain Scott ordered the ship to be sent astern, and the +whole expedition returned about a hundred yards to catch that fish. So +did two snowy petrels and a skua gull. Then might have been seen eminent +explorers, scientists, and sailor-men yelling themselves hoarse to scare +away the birds of prey! We backed on to the floe, and as I was about the +best situated, I jumped down to the ice and secured the fish, just as +the birds were deciding that the unseemly clamour could not hurt them. A +leather bucket on a line received the fish, but unfortunately the floe +started drifting away, and soon was held only by my pull on the +bucket-line. It was rather a comical situation, for if I let go the fish +would probably get adrift, and if they let go I should get adrift! +However, I had to let the bucket go, and luckily—though it filled with +water—the fish did not have time to jump out. Then a heavy rope drew the +floe to the ship’s side across some twenty feet of water—no easy job, +since the floe was twenty-five feet wide, and there was nothing to which +the rope could be tied. The fish turned out to be a blenny, allied to +the climbing perch of the Queensland coast. Whether it is new or not is +a question still to be decided. + +[Illustration: + + CATCHING THE FISH IN THE PACK. + + From a drawing by D. Low. +] + +We passed some very interesting icebergs during the next few days +(18–20th). I remember especially one long berg on the eastern horizon, +on which the setting sun was shining. It must have been a tremendous +length, and looked like a golden scimitar flung across a dead white +plain. Even our helmsman noticed it, and said, “A white-back, sorr; it +looked like the lights of a great city.” The pack was very heavy +hereabouts, but we made some progress along lanes of more or less open +water. A berg along which we skirted, instead of presenting clean cut +vertical cliffs, was corrugated on its sides, and very rugged on its +upper surface. Probably it was derived from a glacier. A stage of planks +was thrust out from the starboard bow, and on this Ponting perched his +cinematograph, and photographed our progress through the heavy pack. + +Later in the day every one was called up on deck to see the magnificent +avenue we were traversing. Each side of the lane was bounded by immense +sheets of iceberg, with low cliffs, fifteen feet high, so strikingly +vertical that they might have been cut to a set square. The bergs were +six in number, and were probably fragments of one huge slab of the Great +Barrier, over a square mile in extent, which had been driven north +before the winter gales. (We novices did not appreciate the danger +involved if these bergs happened to press together, but our leaders had +an anxious time here.) + +An Emperor penguin was sitting on one of the floes near the low bergs, +and we tried to stalk him in the _Terra Nova_. Surely with no other game +in the world could one manœuvre for half an hour in full view of the +victim with some hope of success. However, the Emperor did not wait +quite long enough, but dived just when the ship had backed to his floe, +which looks as if he had a sense of humour. + +Dr. Wilson carefully preserved the contents of the stomachs of the +penguins. Among biological specimens, such as shrimps and the like, he +found about a dozen small pebbles. These, when carefully examined with a +lens, were readily identifiable by the geologists. There were three +eruptive rocks represented—a dark basalt ash, a denser stuff with little +augite crystals, and, most abundant, a hard felspar porphyry, with +numerous little twin felspar crystals. What geologist would have +expected to have such a fine collection of Antarctic rocks carried to +him in mid-ocean? + +We were now collecting penguins also—for our Christmas dinner. Three +were seen alongside on a somewhat thin floe, and Dr. Wilson gallantly +undertook to augment our larder. Meanwhile the afterguard ranged +themselves on the poop, and sang “Rings on her Fingers and Bells on her +Toes,” which often has a calming effect on the penguins. + +Perhaps the choir was not in unison; anyhow, the penguins waddled off, +and “Dr. Bill” followed hot-foot. They lay down on their white +shirt-fronts, and propelled themselves vigorously with their strong hind +legs. (“Hind” seems necessary, for in this position the flippers +resemble legs more than wings.) “Dr. Bill” came a cropper, and +involuntarily copied their movements, and then, seeing they were less +alarmed when he was prone on the floe, he crawled towards them, singing +winsomely the while. When a quarter of a mile from the ship, a final +leap, “swift as the striking cobra,” landed him on them, and he grabbed +one. His further efforts, hampered by a lusty penguin, were not +successful, and he returned reluctantly to his comrades, to find them +exhausted with laughing at his comical career all over the floe. Our +chief penguin-charmer (Meares) declares that he can drive away any +penguin by singing “God save,” as he calls it. But this is a _post hoc, +propter hoc_ statement, for we do not permit him to attempt this +dangerous experiment until they show signs of melting away. + +Christmas being imminent, we felt it necessary to add to our scanty +penguin provender. A flock of nine were seen about six hundred yards +off, and four of us, armed with a shot-gun and mauser, lowered the pram +(a dinghy with a long upturned prow) over the side and headed for the +penguins. + +Six hundred yards does not seem far, but it took a long time to +traverse. There was just about room to turn round in the water alongside +the _Terra Nova_. Then a choked lane led by a zigzag course to a large +sheet of water away to the west. The floes were 100 feet across and the +spaces between filled with spongy floe and by chunks of ice, which were +readily removable by the _Terra Nova_, but which we could hardly move. +However, by dint of pushing and prodding and hauling the pram over +ice-foot we got to the open water and then pulled over to the penguins. +They were needed for food, else it seemed cruel to drift down upon them +singing our siren song. Five fell at the first volley and four moved off +rapidly to the north. Again we skirted the floe and bagged three more. +The fourth was shot also but slipped into a hole, and when we cautiously +tramped over a floe—prodding in front with an oar—we found no sign of +the bird but the reddened snow. However, eight penguins was a fair bag, +and we returned toward the ship. We had had so much trouble rubbing our +way through zigzag gaps in the floes that we ran the pram on to the +larger floe near the ship and hauled her most of the way. It was +somewhat unpleasant to slip in almost to one’s waist in mushy floe, as +happened to two of the party, but otherwise we had no misadventure. A +close inspection of the penguins showed that their surprised appearance +in the photographs is not due to abnormally wide-open eyes, but to the +presence of a colourless eyelid completely surrounding the eye. + +Although we made practically no progress south in the days around +Christmas, yet we did not allow this to affect our festivities. Owing to +the coincidence that Christmas Eve and Boxing Day were the birthdays of +two members of the afterguard, we celebrated them also with appropriate +ceremonial. We toasted the victim at dinner, and after much bashful +hesitation he made a satisfactory speech. Then he was “chaired” twice +round the mess (only, as there were no chairs, this consisted in passing +him from man to man shoulder high). He was next lifted up over the main +beam (crossing the wardroom) and passed down again and then left in +peace. Songs for two hours and a scrimmage in the “nursery” (which was +dignified by the name of Lancers!) completed the evening. + +On Christmas morning we started off well by pumping for half an hour. +When the furnaces are out, this is done by hand; but she is making very +little water now. Sixteen of the afterguard, led by Priestley, singing +“Ranzo, Boys, Ranzo,” soon cause the valves to give the cheery chuckles +which announce that air is mixing with the water and that the bilge is +nearly dry. Then with a will to breakfast. After the meal was cleared +away, our “pack-ice” pattern tablecloth was replaced by one of noble +blue, and we decorated the wardroom for Christmas. All the sledge flags +were brought out and hung around the walls outside the cabins of their +owners, as in mediæval times. There was great discussion as to the +proper heraldic description of our flags, but the Encyclopædia on board +showed nothing like them in its article on heraldry. Captain Scott’s has +the white square with a red cross of St. George near the staff, and the +other portion divided longitudinally into yellow and blue. In the middle +is his crest of a stag’s head, with the motto, “Ready, aye, Ready!” + +The service was read by Captain Scott and differed little from the +ordinary Church of England service, except by the insertion of two +special collects. Then some gifts of tobacco and sweets were distributed +to all on board. They were presented by the Dunedin Seamen’s Mission and +were much appreciated. Many of the afterguard unearthed treasures “not +to be opened until Christmas Day.” Some of these were of an edible +nature, and were seen but for a short space before they passed away. I +think the most noticeable feature of the dinner was the white damask +tablecloth. It supported turtle soup, penguin stew, roast beef, mince +pies, and plum-pudding. We enjoyed the meal thoroughly, but, then, that +is always the case. Songs—some written for the occasion—stories, +chanties, and banjo music filled in the evening. + +Microscopic life simply swarms in these Polar seas, to an infinitely +greater extent than in the warm waters of the tropics, though one would +be inclined to the opposite belief. The economic research of German and +Norwegian biologists has shown that there is almost as much +protoplasm—the basis of all life tissues—per acre of ocean as there is +in a well-cultivated crop on land. Most of this floats near the surface +in the form of minute plants (diatoms) and minute infusoria, +foraminifera, and copepods (which are animals). As a result, the +struggle for existence is probably much more strenuous among these +floating organisms (plankton) than it is on land. What may be termed the +cycle of life—recalling the Indian idea of transmigration—is very +evident in the pack-ice. At the basis here, as on land, are plants; for +they alone can convert inorganic material into protoplasm. Almost every +floe in its lower layers is stained yellow from the presence of millions +of little organisms (such as _Corethron_) belonging to the Diatom +family. Our biologist is examining some specimens through his +microscope, and if we look down we see some transparent rods with +indications of granular matter at intervals. These are magnified some +thousand diameters, so that it can be realised how many are necessary to +colour the ice to a deep yellow. Hovering all about the floes, waiting +for the diatoms to thaw out, are the smallest marine animals, of which +the infusoria give rise to the phosphorescence seen in many seas, and +the foraminifera to that beautiful calcareous deposit known to every one +by the euphonious title of “globigerina ooze.” Feeding on these are +animals of a much higher order (crustacea, in fact, allied to shrimps), +and known as Copepods and Schizopods. Commonest of all is the large +schizopod _Euphausia_. + +These fellows are so big that we can see them swimming around the floes. +They may grow to a length of two inches, and but for their split +feet—each branching into two, as the name Schizopod suggests—look very +like pale shrimps. They are the mainstay of the better-known animals—the +penguins, seals, and whales. Ever ready to attack the three latter is +the killer whale, a ferocious dolphin, which drives the seals and +penguins to take refuge on the floes. Here they fall easy victims to +man, for they have not yet learnt to expect any enemy except in the +water. Since the killers are credited with attempts to shake some of +Shackleton’s men off a floe into the water, it appears as if _homo +sapiens_ would be relished by these same shark-like mammals. +Undoubtedly, if man reigns on land _Orca gladiator_ is lord of the +Antarctic seas. + +Towards the southern limits of the pack the “iceberg watch” was not very +strenuous, and I fear me I played truant at frequent intervals. One +expedition down to the cosy engine-room resulted in a glorious hot bath, +which is quite sufficiently a rarity to be chronicled. The second +engineer warmed a bucket of water by the Fijian method of dropping a +red-hot lump of fire-bar therein. This quiet officer was he who probably +experienced the most thrilling moment in Antarctica. With Petty Officer +Evans he accompanied Scott on his western expedition, and on the Ferrar +Glacier saw his two companions disappear together in a bottomless +crevasse. Captain Scott has told how he managed to climb up the trace, +but I can imagine Lashley’s despair as he grimly held back the sledge, +and thought of the dreadful solitary march that most probably confronted +him. Evans also has returned to his old leader’s flag, and is in charge +of the transport material. Cheetham and Paton have made five voyages +already across the seas, though I do not anticipate that they will join +the shore party. With the Eastern Expedition (to King Edward the Seventh +Land) goes Abbott, a naval man and a champion wrestler. Several other +members of the crew will join us in Antarctica, so that the _Terra Nova_ +will seem very empty on her return voyage. She will be under the command +of Lieutenant Pennell, who will be accompanied by Lieutenants Rennick +and Bruce, and by Mr. Drake. They will have the wardroom—now occupied by +twenty-four officers—to themselves, and are trying to impress _nous +autres_ with the comforts combined with elegance which will characterise +the after-deck next March. + +On the 27th we were drifting aimlessly in thick pack, but later in the +day the floes seemed to open a little. It was decided to raise steam and +trust our luck—for sail power had merely kept her nose to a big floe +most of the time—though the prospect did not look very hopeful. Towards +evening we met examples of overridden floes, two thin cakes being +recemented, and this seemed to indicate the effects of a recent swell. + +Lieutenant Gran is a believer in a mild way in the powers of white +magic. That evening he saw the discarded Bridge pack lying on the table, +and said, “We’ll see how many days before we finish with this ice. If I +draw out a black card it will show us.” So he straightway turned over a +card, and it was the two of spades. As you shall hear in forty-eight +hours we were once more entering on open water! The next day we were +favoured with most beautiful weather. We slowly pushed and broke our way +through the floes which occasionally shook the good ship to her centre, +and hitting the propeller caused a succession of shudders that would +have “shivered the timbers” of any less stout vessel. The sun shone with +almost a tropic heat—there was no wind and a temperature of 37° brought +all the afterguard out on the poop to soak in the sunbeams. Every +available square inch was occupied by basking humanity, and this unusual +phase of our “strenuous life” formed the subject of several photographs. + +[Illustration: + + Course of _Terra Nova_ through the Antarctic pack, as far as Cape + Evans, from December 7, 1910, to January 4, 1911. +] + +Until one has been blockaded for three weeks by some such unexpected +obstacle as this mighty width of pack, it is difficult to realise how +closely we scanned its texture for any hint of its boundary. Towards the +evening of the 29th we began to hope that the pack was showing similar +features to those we met with on entering. Very beautiful were some of +the piled up pressure blocks. I remember one of the nature of a +“glacier-table.” A flat-domed slab some three feet across, was perched +on a slender support above the floe. Pendant from the table were +numerous long icicles, consequent on the warm weather. The under surface +of the table, owing to repeated reflection, was a beautiful ultramarine, +which was seen through the curtain of icicles, and the whole structure +reminded me of one of those resplendent medusæ which float placidly on +the sea, with their tentacles hanging from the fringe of the “umbrella.” +Hereabouts the floe became thinner and more uniform. It was broken into +wide sub-angular surfaces, with vertical sides, as when a sheet of +“shortbread” is broken for consumption. At nine o’clock we entered a +wide lane where the placid water we had encountered hitherto was +replaced by an area of short choppy waves. Then an area of “pancake,” +with rounded outline and upturned edges, and, finally, just at midnight +we crossed several east-west belts of “brash ice,” and at long length +entered the open Ross Sea. + +The _Morning_ and the _Discovery_ had each entered the pack in latitude +66½°, and emerged in 69½°. Thus they crossed three degrees of latitude, +or a little over two hundred statute miles. We entered it in 64½° and +left it behind in 71½°, which is seven degrees or almost five hundred +miles. Moreover, the width of the pack has this in common with the +height of a range of mountains, that the difficulties increase in a much +greater degree than _direct_ proportion as these factors grow large. For +a great width of pack implies older and thicker floes in the centre; +with an absence of cracks, since the swell cannot penetrate this region. +Four miles of a narrow pack may be traversed in an hour, but the same +distance in the middle of the belt often took us more than twenty-four +hours. + + + + + CHAPTER V + THROUGH THE ROSS SEA + + +Midnight on the 29th marked our breaking through the pack, and thence we +sailed southward and slightly westward, without further trouble from the +ice. In fact, it was a help, for we encountered half a gale from the +south on the 31st and hove to under the shelter of a drifting belt of +pack. This was necessary for the sake of the weakened ponies. Advantage +was taken of the halt to put down soundings. Bottom was reached at 187 +fathoms, whereas the day before it had been 1111 fathoms or 5500 feet +deeper! We hauled up some small pebbles of eruptive rock coated with +polyzoa—a low form of life which was absent on the rocks from the deep +water. + +Late in the evening of the last day of the year the officer of the watch +reported “Land in sight.” On the starboard bow was a clouded horizon, +and there, apparently far above the sea line, in a belt of thinner +clouds extended a range of mountains in a vast panorama. There were two +widely separated peaks rising in solitary splendour, and akin in form to +the Matterhorn; but even grander owing to the clothing of snow from top +to bottom. These were Mounts Sabine and Monteagle, each about 10,000 +feet high, with their slopes washed by the waters of Ross Sea. They lie +well to the south of Cape Adare, where Borchgrevinck spent the first +winter in the Antarctic. + +An hour or two later we kept up the good old ceremony of ushering in the +New Year. At the proper time Lieut. Evans performed on the steam siren, +and others of us, with handbells and other weapons of offence, awakened +the sleeping afterguard. As a grand finale, a march was played on the +pianola, after which we turned in with a pleasing consciousness of +duties nobly done. + +New Year’s Day was most beautiful weather. Some portion of it was +occupied in swinging ship to correct the compasses. In a chart plotted +to show the magnetic variation this region is of great interest. For the +last few days every degree of southing has approximately led to a change +of one degree in the magnetic variation. Thus on entering the pack the +variation from north was 40° E.; on leaving it was 60°, while at Ross +Island it has increased to 150°. The magnetic pole—to which the S. end +of the compass needle points—lies inland some 200 miles from Mount +Sabine. On the line joining the magnetic to the south pole the compass +readings are completely reversed. Captain Scott, on his western journey, +crossed this line, and when he sent back a party of men, told them to +find their course _due east_ by following exactly the path indicated by +_west_ on the compass. + +During these few days every one is much occupied with letters home. +Special stamps—surcharged VICTORIA LAND—have been issued to us, but as +their number is limited, I fancy few of them will be exposed to the +tender mercies of the post offices of the world. On the last expedition +many of the letters bearing Antarctic stamps went astray, so that on +this occasion two envelopes are being used by those who desire to send +home officially obliterated stamps. The talents of the afterguard as +regards letter-writing vary considerably. One member is sending off +nearly a hundred postcards and letters. Another collected a few +important dates from other people’s diaries—to lend an air of exactitude +to his epistle, he explained—and then proceeded to send off one letter +of no great length. + +If it were possible, Captain Scott proposed to make Cape Crozier his +headquarters. In some respects this was superior to other positions. It +was new ground, except for a hasty survey; it was near the Emperor +Penguin settlement. More important, it was permanently connected with +the Great Barrier, whereas Cape Royds is isolated from the south by +impassable cliffs and glaciers in summer. + +A _sine qua non_, however, was a firm ice-foot, or sea-ice platform, on +which to disembark the heavy motor sledges and the ponies. The 3rd of +January was a day replete with interest. At noon we had approached near +enough to Mount Terror to see the details of its surface. Erebus lay +twenty miles to the west, and was shrouded in clouds and somewhat behind +Terror. As we steamed in toward Cape Crozier we could see the great Ice +Barrier extending indefinitely to the east. Owing to the numerous +fragments of the Barrier we had met to northward, and to the pictures we +had studied, this giant wall seemed like a familiar old friend. As one +of the men remarked, we seemed to have been seeing it all our lives! At +this point it was about sixty feet high, and gave rise to a curious +meteorological effect. + +In the far east, where the lessening ribbon of the ice front reached the +horizon, there was a distinct difference in the sky to north and south +respectively. To the north it was a dark grey, with heavy cumulus, but +in a definite arc over the Barrier this was changed to pearly grey, and +the clouds were almost white. This was, of course, a gigantic form of +ice-blink, but I saw nothing approaching it in size or intensity in our +passage through the pack. + +[Illustration: + + Coasting Ross Island, January, 1911. +] + +Near at hand were bands of brash ice, forming a sort of miniature pack +just under the Great Barrier. On this bobbing and rotating surface +sported flocks of penguins, performing marvellous feats of equilibrium, +and nowise disturbed by the huge bulk of the ship towering above them. +The Barrier front is deeply undercut by the waves at the water-level, +and small berglets were constantly dropping off above this line of +weakness. Probably they give rise to the broken masses cemented to floes +which we met in the pack; while the large bergs are pieces broken off +from the _whole_ face of the Barrier. From top to bottom the Barrier +would here be about 250 feet deep, I expect. + +By this time we had approached as near to Cape Crozier as the swell +would allow. In the angle between the Barrier and the rocky cliffs +buttressing Mount Terror were piled up masses of pressure ice for some +distance back from the sea. The cliffs of dark lava were 250 feet above +the water, and were actually overhanging in places. Further west, again, +the shore line consisted of some low bluffs separating beaches of +considerable extent. Behind these beaches, the rock, instead of being +black, was a light brown or buff colour for a distance of a mile along +the water’s edge, and perhaps a quarter of a mile inland. It was +difficult to realize that this brown area was a guano deposit, resulting +from the presence of a vast colony of penguins. Through the glasses we +could see vast regiments of them, extending far up the hill slopes and +making their way across patches of snow from one rocky surface to +another. Quite separate from the main rookery were two little exclusive +colonies, though why they should move away from their fellows, and so +far from the sea, is difficult to explain. In the background towered +Mount Terror, 10,000 feet high, his summit occasionally appearing +through a break in the clouds. + +Captain Scott decided to prospect for a landing-place in a whaleboat, so +a party set off to cover the intervening half-mile. Bits of floe, that +seemed insignificant in the _Terra Nova_, gave the whaleboat a nasty +jar, and the swell quite prohibited our making a landing at any point. +We made for the lowest place in the pressure ice. Here a floe had been +forced up to form a deep sea cave, and along one side was a pathway used +by the Emperor penguins. Hanging head downwards from the roof of the +cave were two dead penguins, which had been caught in the pressure. +Awaiting us were two Emperors, one full grown, and the other a lusty +chick the size of a duck, and covered with grey down. It marched off in +a stately fashion without the ludicrous wobbles of the Adelies; and so +escaped the clutches of Dr. Wilson, who was eager for its scalp as soon +as he saw its plumage. We then rowed west for half a mile under the lava +cliffs. Some lenticular patches of white material among the dark basalt +reminded me of the alternating layers of snow and lava seen in a +volcanic island in the South Pacific. But this white material was not +snow, but a basic ash from which all the iron (the colouring material in +Vulcan’s workshop) had been bleached out. We felt rain falling, and +looked up to see that we were right under the water from the melting +snows of Terror, which dropped 250 feet from the crumbling lavas. Lest +the latter should also fall on us, we moved seaward. A magnificent +series of basalt columns appeared before us. They were long, narrow, +hexagonal rods rather than columns, curved and interlocked, and about a +hundred feet long. For a hundred yards or more, the appearance of this +cliff face reminded me of the fracture of a coarsely crystalline piece +of cast iron. I have not heard of a parallel case of columnar basalt. +There was no hope of landing under these cliffs, so we made for the +ship, and soon put off to the penguin rookeries, where some sea-ice +might be expected to remain. After passing some stranded bergs, we came +abreast of the penguin colonies, and the sea was perfectly full of the +birds cruising about in search of their shrimp-like food. I have never +seen seas so teeming with life. The explanation is that these polar +waters are free from the bacteria which break up protoplasm and so +render it to some extent useless for food. The cold waters act as a kind +of cold storage, and supply unlimited food material for higher organisms +in the form of algæ and protozoa, which quickly vanish after death in +warmer regions. At the other end of the scale of life in the Antarctic +are the warm-blooded killer-whales (_orca_), of which we saw a party of +three busy gobbling up penguins. The cycle involved has been described +by one of the scientists on board in a rhyme, which is descriptive, if +not poetical:— + +[Illustration: Black-and-white] + +(As will be seen later, the human element in the cycle was nearly +supplied!) + +One never sees the penguins swimming on the surface. Occasionally a +snake-like head pops up and looks around for a few seconds, but usually +they are swimming rapidly with their flippers a foot or two below the +surface, or imitating the dolphins in curving leaps through the air. On +the shore near the rookeries the snow was worn into long gutters where +the penguins promenaded to and fro. The winds are too strong for any +economic deposit of guano to arise. We saw brown patches driven by the +wind on to a snow bluff five hundred feet above the rookery. + +About 6 p.m. on the 3rd Erebus came into sight. We approached it from +the north-east—an unusual direction—and so, perhaps, obtained a more +comprehensive view of the outer crater than previous observers. It is a +wonderful “Somma” ring, like that of Vesuvius, and being composed of +dark steep rock, it stands out in strong contrast to the inner white +cone and the outer snow-covered slopes. Ponting got a fine photograph of +it, which will be of interest to vulcanologists. Having given up all +idea of wintering on the north-east quarter of Ross Island, we +immediately steamed west to McMurdo Sound. + +We were engaged on a survey of the north coast of Ross Island. Bowers +with sextant, Pennell at the compass, Campbell at the range-finder, each +with an assistant, formed a busy group on the ice-house. + +All that night we steamed steadily west to Cape Bird, passing Beaufort +Island on the starboard, and then turned south again to Cape Royds. +Beaufort Isle was the scene of an exploit of one of our seamen (Paton), +who was shut in by pack some five miles away from the island in the +whaler _Morning_. He and a mate broke leave to try and reach the isle +across the floes, but had to return without accomplishing their wish. On +his return to civilization Paton found he had become a proud father. The +child was christened Beaufort Paton on the suggestion of Lieut. Evans. + +About 5 a.m. we came into sight of the western face of Erebus. McMurdo +Sound was closed in here by loose pack, but the ship threaded her way +through fairly readily. We were keenly interested to see the condition +of the ice at Cape Royds, and two of our afterguard (Priestley and Day) +have a personal interest in the headquarters of Shackleton’s expedition. +Soon after the queer volcanic knob on the end of Cape Barne hove in view +we sighted the meteorological screen, and immediately afterwards the hut +of the 1907 expedition. But the bay, instead of its old-time surface of +sea-ice, was a sheet of open water, with two stranded bergs in one +corner. Obviously it was no better as a landing-place than Cape Crozier +had been. The hut looked in good order, though the door had apparently +been broken in, but we could not see many details, for it was essential +to push south and see how much ice had broken away. An hour later we +reached Inaccessible Island, and here a solid wall of sea-ice prevented +all further progress. Forty-eight hours of coast observation caused one +watcher to retire to his bunk. On returning to the deck I found that the +_Terra Nova_ had come to a standstill against the sea-ice, about a mile +south-east of Inaccessible Island, and the same distance from the shore. +Here on a large area of dark eruptive rock—freed from snow at this +season—we are building our hut. In the future the locality will be known +as Cape Evans. + +[Illustration: + + MAP OF THE COAST FROM CAPE ROYDS TO HUT POINT. +] + + + + + CHAPTER VI + MAKING WINTER QUARTERS AT CAPE EVANS + + +On the morning of the 4th we carried out hawsers, and put in ice anchors +in the ice, over which so many journeys were to be made in the next +fortnight. Captain Scott, Evans, and Dr. Wilson went off to choose a +suitable site for the hut, and returned very pleased with their brief +survey. + +Let us look landward from the _Terra Nova_, and examine the locality +where the expedition will spend some six months of the ensuing twelve. +We are drawn close to the ice, which stands about eight inches above the +sea, and some eighteen inches below water-level. It is variable in +texture, that near the ship being rather mushy and honeycombed +below—while several large cracks traverse it. Further away is a belt of +clear hard ice, and then bands of snow-covered and clear ice for a mile +or so, until the shore is reached. Here along the western slope of +Erebus extends a belt of the dark volcanic rock, _kenyte_, and in +consequence of the rapid heating of dark objects by the continuous +sunshine, this is largely free from snow. Immediately at the shore line +is a belt of very soft ice, fantastically honeycombed, and threaded by +streams of fresh water. Crossing a snow-bank, we rise slightly, and +reach the kenyte gravel on which our hut and the headquarters generally +are placed. Walking along this gravel slope, we come to a flowing +stream, falling over a little waterfall—a rarity, as may be imagined, in +Antarctica. Moreover, this stream rises in quite a respectable +lake—which, if not large enough for a regatta, at all events affords +good exercise in chasing the skua gulls, which have been attracted by +the open water. Continuing eastward, the steeper lower slopes of Erebus +are reached. The lower portions are of the same dark eruptive rock; but +a few hundred feet from the sea-level these are covered by a pall of +snow, which extends almost uninterruptedly to the summit of Erebus. The +slope steepens considerably at an elevation of some five thousand feet, +and when the top is clouded over, the lower portion is not unlike the +base of Fujiyama in Japan. On a clear day the steam-cloud capping Erebus +is very obvious. Usually it is seen drifting to the south from a sharp +vertical column arising directly above the crater. Sometimes, however, +the steam-cloud spreads out fairly symmetrically, and on one occasion it +simulated a gigantic cedar-tree, with a central trunk and spreading +branches. To the south are two stranded bergs, which I shall describe in +detail later. As a background to these dazzling white pyramids is the +sombre ridge of Inaccessible Island, which some of us before long—in +spite of its name—managed to conquer. To the north-east is the +cliff-like edge of the Cape Barne glacier, reaching almost to the +curious dark erratic outline of Cape Royds. Fifty miles away to the +west, across the sound, the wonderful glacial valleys of the western +mountains are seen veiled in clouds. + +Now began a strenuous time for all on board. It was necessary to get the +heavy cargo off the ship while the floe remained firm. Though the +weather was excellent there was no telling when a heavy wind would send +all the sea-ice into Ross Sea. Gang-planks were run out, and the wildly +excited dogs pulled, pushed, and tumbled into the hands of men on the +ice. Then they went at a gallop over mushy ice to the bow ice-anchor +chain; there they were tethered at intervals of a foot or so. We had not +been at work long when inquisitive visitors turned up. These were the +Adelie penguins, who waddled eagerly forward, and promenaded about, with +their heads bent on one side in a very critical fashion. Unfortunately +the dogs were as keenly interested in them, and simultaneously twenty of +them rushed at the nearest penguin. A scene of wild confusion ensued. +The heavy cable was jerked about so violently that the end dogs were +lifted several feet into the air and hung there a moment suspended by +their chains. Whips, yells, and curses were of no avail until the +miserable bird had been torn limb from limb. For some hours one man had +to be on the watch to warn off trespassers and prevent penguin suicide. + +[Illustration: + + SURVEYING THE NORTH COAST OF ROSS ISLAND FROM THE _TERRA NOVA_, JAN. + 3, 1911. + + Photo looking aft from the foc’sle, showing six officers at the + standard compass. + + [_See p. 85._ +] + +[Illustration: + + PHOTO FROM THE SHIP OF CAPE EVANS, JAN. 26, 1911. + + The Tunnel Berg appears on the right. Behind is the dark line of the + Ramp, and + twelve miles away the cone of Erebus with a small steam cloud. +] + +The ponies, with one exception, were much less trouble, and were swung +out in a box on a rope from the yard with great ease. The motor sledges +were transhipped in their cases—which had hitherto formed efficient +walls to the dog “hangar.” Three ropes attached to the mainyard, and +manned by ten men, enabled the case—weighing about a ton—to be swung up, +outward, and downward on to the floe without a jar. The motors were then +taken from their cases, and run further on to the floe, where Day and +Nelson soon had them running. It was their buzzing which annoyed our +high-spirited steed, “Hackenschmidt.” He careered about the waist of the +ship, and was more trouble to land than all the other sixteen. He +continued his career of uselessness during the following busy season. +Ponting found much material here for his cinematograph, and had the +machine clicking merrily most of the forenoon. He has literally miles of +films, and it is amusing to see the way he snips off a foot or so of an +exposed film quite callously to develop it and judge the result. As he +says, it only represents a second which will never be missed in a series +of several minutes. + +It was a large hauling job that confronted us. Material for a hut, 50 by +25 feet, with walls and roof of six or eight layers; sledging +equipments, tents, etc., for thirty men; food for two years; fuel +(chiefly a patent coal compound) for the same period; and fodder for the +seventeen horses and for the dogs. All this had to be carried nearly two +miles across the sea-ice on sledges. What now were the means of haulage? +We had many and varied methods. Firstly, the motor sledges; secondly, +the ponies; thirdly, the dogs; and fourthly, man power. Each has +something in its favour. Speed of transit goes to the dogs, +non-liability to accidents to the man power; gross tonnage to the +motors, and general efficiency (with decent specimens) I should award to +the ponies. + +[Illustration: + + Sketch from Inaccessible Island, showing the divided steam-cloud on + Erebus, and the region around Cape Evans, looking north, 11 p.m., + January 5, 1911. +] + +The man-sledges got to work very early in the campaign. The sledges are +nine and twelve feet long, with runners four inches wide, and upturned +somewhat at both ends. There is a flexible bent prow, and six or eight +vertical stanchions, which support the upper frame—as simple a design as +one could devise. Everything is secured by leather lashings, the +abutting ends being sewn into a sort of leather bucket. A rope loop +projects from the front, but is fastened to the forward stanchions, and +not to the prow-piece, which serves chiefly to guide the sledge over +hummocks of ice. A long rope with broad canvas belts (attached thereto +by tributary ropes) constitutes the harness. When the load has been tied +on by a piece of spun yarn, the leader steps into his belt, adjusts it +over the hips, and, grasping his ski-sticks firmly, gives the word and +plods on. Many a mile have we covered with bodies hanging forward over +the belts, and our spiked boots and ski-sticks barely enabling us to +pull the heavy load through a patch of snowdrift. But over moderately +smooth sea-ice it was quite easy for four men to pull a 1000 lbs. load +on two sledges for a distance of a mile and a half in twenty-five +minutes. + +There were two dog teams in constant use, one driven by Meares, and the +other by the Russian youth, Demetri. Their sledges are Siberian, and +somewhat higher in the frame. The chief difference consists in a high +hoop or arch of wood, which is placed two feet from the prow. By this +the driver can twist his sledge around. He also carries an iron-pointed +staff, to be used as a brake and also to guide the sledge to some +extent. The dog teams consist of five dogs—one leader who is specially +trained to obey commands (and sometimes scorns to pull), and two pairs +of dogs toggled to a central rope much as in the man harness. These dog +sledges career about in long sweeping curves, and the air resounds with +barbaric cries of “Ky! Ky!” or “Chui! Chui!” while the ice screeches +under the impact of the driver’s pointed staff. His chief difficulty is +to steer clear of penguins, for awful is the result if they sight an +unfortunate bird! A dog team pulls the driver, so that 150 lbs. must be +added to their load. Each dog pulls about one quarter that moved by a +man, but at twice the speed. + +The motor sledges took some little time, naturally enough, to swing into +the ranks. They have fourteen horsepower motor-car engines, four +cylinders, magneto ignition. Most people have seen illustrations of +them, for they have been run in Norway and England previously, though +designed for the expedition. The two axles bear two pairs of cog wheels +about eighteen inches diameter. Around these run two endless bands—one +on each side of the sledge—which carry flat square plates. These plates +constitute the bearing surface, and each plate is actually stationary on +the ground until it comes under the rear cog wheel, when it is caught up +and passed forward to the front cog wheel. Hence the car runs on its own +platform. The flat square plates grip the snow by diagonal bars. There +is a large tool box in front of the engine, and a small elevated padded +seat at the back. Otherwise no top hamper obscures the mechanism. When +not in use the motor wears a huge quilted hood which keeps the cylinders +from freezing. + +In work two men are necessary. One drives from the seat, and another +holds the end of a rope fastened to a projecting bowsprit. The latter is +the helmsman, for at a pull sideways the sledge slews around without the +expenditure of much effort. The camber on the plate belts also helps the +turning of the heavy mechanism. The two motor sledges were in frequent +use for the first few days, and hauled most of the hut material to the +shore. They pulled about two tons, and one of their functions (most +fully appreciated) was that of hauling back empty man-sledges—empty +except for the wearied pullers who lay back on the sledges and dreamily +regarded the clear sky on their welcome rest between pulls. + +The ponies had been standing continuously for five weeks, and were +therefore not very fit for a few days. They were given a short rest at +the pony lines on the snow behind the hut, but soon came into +requisition, and have done the greater part of the hauling since. The +ponies had, however, many little peculiarities which were troublesome, +not only to those uninitiated in the mysteries of pony-driving, but to +the experts as well. I shall have more to say on this later. + +Let us accompany a man sledge from the ship to the hut. The question of +knots troubles a landsman. At first it was not uncommon for the first +jerk to result in the rope parting company with the sledge! The start +was always difficult, for the sledges froze to the ice, and it was +necessary to “break them out” by extra help. + +[Illustration: + + THE FIRST HOUR ASHORE. + + Demetri preventing Penguin suicide. +] + +[Illustration: + + TWO MOTOR SLEDGES ON THE BEACH AT CAFE EVANS, JAN. 20, 1911. + + The tabular berg has just grounded where the ship lay at anchor and so + she has steamed off to the north. The motor engine is covered by + felting. The sea-ice can be seen breaking away. +] + +We had not much eye for the beautiful scenery around, but were very +keenly and vitally interested in the surface over which we had to pull +the load. Ten feet of clear ice were less difficult to traverse than one +foot of snowdrift only an inch deep. The party all wore snow-goggles of +amber or green glass to prevent snow-blindness. These fogged from +perspiration, and required frequent cleaning unless the sun were very +bright, when luckily they warmed up somewhat, and the moisture did not +condense so rapidly. At first we would follow the motor trail marked by +staves and empty oil drums. But this was too heavily drifted in places, +so we deviated south to reach clear ice. All goes merrily until we reach +a snow belt. The first sledge touches the snow, and a slight jerk makes +us pull to our belts. Another jerk announces the arrival of the second +sledge, and if we are pulling three sledges the combined resistance +reminds one of hauling three ploughs through stiff wet clay. On this +snowdrift we see the pony hoof-marks and the long furrow cut by the +dog-driver’s staff. Then on to clear ice again, where spiked boots are +essential. We reach a broad band of troubled ice crossing the smooth +surface. This is a recemented crevasse, and is practically as strong as +the rest of the surface. + +[Illustration: Sun-holes 2–1–11] + +The older ice near the shore is “pitted” in a curious fashion. Imagine a +red-hot horse-shoe planked down on the ice, with the front forced deeper +into the ice. This is the shape and size of these holes, and it seems +probable that they might save a man’s life in a blizzard; for they are +all directed to the south, and would form a sort of compass if he had no +better! The explanation is that they are due to the action of the +hottest solar rays, which, of course, occur when the sun is in the +north. Curiously enough, those small holes have no effect on the sledge +haulage, except that they tear the runners somewhat. On another patch of +snow is a queer “spoor.” A serpentine trail of four or five parallel +lines, with large three-toed footprints, alternating with the curves of +the continuous serpentine trails. Suddenly it changes into a broad, +shallow gutter in the soft snow! What strange beast has made this? It is +of course due to the penguin. As he ponderously heaves from foot to foot +his stiff tail feathers swing in unison. When he is tired of this method +of progression he drops on his breast and propels himself by his +toe-nails. Hence the broad gutter! This trail is very like those fossil +prints set down to gigantic Plesiosaurians in bygone times. + +[Illustration: + + Antarctic spoor, January 12, 1911. +] + +To our right is a patch of very dark ice with an evil crack leading to a +small pool. We skirt this warily, and are not much surprised to hear a +sudden plop! as two or three penguins shoot out of the water and land at +our feet, and often right in the way of the sledge. A pony-sledge passes +us and then stops—amid our jeers—to breathe the steed, for the ponies +are short of wind at this early stage. We hear a steady droning, and the +motor rolls by. But we beat across country, while the helmsman is +hauling the behemoth on to a new course. The belt is beginning to cramp +our muscles, and the steady stab and drag of the ski-sticks at first +blister the hands. Soon the welcome bamboo at the camp comes into sight. +Snow bridges have been built across the tide cracks just below the hut. +Here the ice rises and falls a couple of feet during the day. We save a +little “go” for the last hundred yards, and rush her at the tide cracks. +“Up she rises,” and several willing helpers from the hut lend a hand, +and so our load pulls up on the belt of snow by the hut. Here Bowers +takes charge, and his gang puts the wood near the hut site, the food on +another spot, fodder here, and oil in the far corner. Then we run the +sledge out of the way to the ice, and if there is no motor returning, +pull it back with light loads and rapidly easing muscles to the ship. + +We were returning on Friday evening, somewhat wearied, when Ponting met +us and told us the “owner” wished every one to hurry to the ship, for +the killer-whales were breaking up the floes, and the stores on the ice +would be lost! We ran on and found the sea-ice all broken away at the +stern; but Ponting had not explained his own very exciting adventure. +Two dogs had broken loose and were racing about at the edge of the ice, +when a party of eight killer-whales appeared at the stern of the ship, +evidently attracted by these strangely active “seals.” An _orca_ is +twenty to thirty feet long, and has the most fearsome jaw of all the +creatures that hunt in the high seas. Thirteen long conical teeth are +set in each jaw, each projecting a couple of inches from the bone—and +(unlike those of the crab-eater) built for business. Ponting, ever keen +on good photographs, took his camera along to get a close view of these +fellows. He narrates that they lifted their wicked-looking heads above +the water to look at him, and he was just pressing the button, when he +felt as if an earthquake had hit him. The whole floe was being broken +away by the orcas, and he was separated from firm ice by two feet of +water. He did not stop to finish that photo! + +After dinner Debenham and I made a trip across the ice to Inaccessible +Island. This rises sharply from the sea, about one mile south of the +ship, and is usually surrounded by a belt of water—due to the warming +action of the very dark rocks of which it is composed. Here we came +across our first “sastrugi.” They are long, deep furrows cut by the +drifting ice crystals in the sides of snowdrifts as they are driven +onward by the blizzard winds. Thus they lie on the windward sides of the +drifts, and make sledge-travelling very difficult if they face the +sledge. If the drifts are across the path of the blizzards the sastrugi +may cut right through the former. Inaccessible Island was almost covered +with the debris of kenyte lavas, though here and there bosses of solid +rock remained, especially towards the summit ridge. In these cold +latitudes the frost action breaks down the rocks very rapidly, without +destroying the mineral structure to such an extent as is the case in +warmer regions. The kenyte weathered into blocks, which irresistibly +suggested the Easter Island “idols.” Every variety of this rock was +found. Some with large crystals an inch long, others like glass, of a +chocolate colour; vesicular lava, full of bubbles, looking like +petrified bath-sponges, and pieces of kenyte caught up in a later flow +of lava, and burnt just to the tint of a red brick. Just before midnight +we returned to the ship, and labelled our specimens in broad sunlight, +before turning in. + +There are two icebergs stranded off Cape Evans, and Captain Scott +arranged that Wright and myself should have some time free to study +their structure while the sea-ice was firm around them. He came along +himself to have a close view, and Ponting brought a sledge, filled with +cameras, to collect photographs. They were both pyramidal, and projected +a hundred feet or so above water. Most probably they had been much +tilted, for a very prominent layer of snow—which from its included air +melted slowly—was now almost vertical. It was obvious that they were +affected by the tide, for a pool filled with brash ice almost surrounded +them, and we could hear the ice fragments creaking as they rubbed +together. + +A unique feature occupied our attention most of the time. Traversing the +berg from end to end was an oval tunnel, forty feet high and fifteen +feet wide, so regular in its outline that it looked as though a red-hot +bar had been pushed right through (a distance of 150 feet). The scenic +possibilities of this mass of shadow in the midst of the dazzling white +of the berg were, of course, fully appreciated by Ponting, and I doubt +if any mass of ice has ever been photographed so thoroughly, from the +right, from the left, from above, below, outside and from inside, and +right through it! By a stroke of almost unbelievable luck the view back +through the tunnel just framed the ship at a mile distance. Next day the +berg had swung through 180°, the ship had steamed away, and the sea-ice +had moved out, so that Ponting was rightly overjoyed at the “fortuitous +concourse of atoms,” which has given rise to one of the most interesting +of his studies. + +[Illustration: + + Iceberg equilibrium. The tilting of the Tunnel Berg during the winter, + 1911. N.B. The front of the tunnel broke away before September. +] + +We were equipped with rope and axes, and cut steps some sixty feet up +the berg until we were well over the tunnel. I was much surprised when +one of the blows of the ice-axe seemed to set free a strip of +orange-peel! Visions of a Japanese hut far to the south floated through +my mind, but on examining the object it was found to be a small +fossilized fish. I dug it out six inches below the surface, and as the +sun melts off quite an appreciable layer every day, this fish may have +been enclosed in the berg for a very long period. The species was +probably _Notothenia_, and somewhat resembles the garfish of Australian +waters. This reminds me of some rather curious biological specimens +discovered by one of the non-scientific members in our little waterfall. +They were white spherical objects, two millimetres wide, which could be +peeled like an onion, and each seemed to enclose a little pearl. But +Lillie identified them as crystalline lenses from the eyes of +_Notothenia_, which were the only things found indigestible by the +omnivorous skua gull, and so accumulated in the stream near their nests. + +Both ends of the berg tunnel were fringed by beautiful icicles, many +being branched almost as much as the famous Jewish candlestick. The +exterior of the berg on the more gently sloping side was armoured with a +panoply of plough-shares projecting horizontally, and due probably to +the sun melting the surface differentially, as described in the case of +the sea-ice. It was unpleasant to climb, and a fall would have +precipitated one into a most uninviting pool. As we watched it two +killer-whales rose to the surface, and “blew off steam” through their +dorsal spouts. They moved towards the south, under the solid ice, and we +could see them long after spouting occasionally along a narrow open +crack leading in that direction. + +We were very fortunate in our weather at this time. Bright calm days, so +warm that one could sit outside in the lee of a pile of fodder after +lunch—as many of us did—and enjoy a short siesta. From the first day +work was carried on busily at the hut. The foundation was excellent, for +the surface all round our camp consists of kenyte gravel, on which the +snow melts as soon as the sun strikes it; which is porous, so that water +will not lie on it; and finally, is so springy that our food cases were +not damaged, however heavily they were dumped on the gravel. The main +timbers were prepared long before we left New Zealand, and most of the +matchboard was cut to size, tied in bundles, and roughly labelled. The +floor area is fifty feet by twenty-five feet, and the roof is quite +plain, with a central ridge. Three small windows, permanently shut, and +with doubled panes, admit sufficient light in summer; while later on an +elaborate acetylene plant will come into use. Of greater interest were +the precautions to keep out the cold. Vertical tongue and groove +matchboard was nailed both outside and inside the framework, an +air-space thus being enclosed between them. Next, a layer of a patent +quilted seaweed material, made of sea-grass sewn into jute sacking, was +tacked on in two-foot breadths. On the outside this was covered with +weather-boarding, and on the inside by another layer of matchboard. The +floor was made of thicker boards separated by ruberoid, while the roof +has an inner matchboard ceiling—an air-space (with joists, etc.), +matchboard, two layers of seaweed quilt, matchboard, and two layers of +ruberoid. Thus every portion of the hut has many layers, each of which +is fairly wind-tight. The door opens into an air-tight porch, and this +is protected from the south-east blizzards by a windscreen. A large +ventilator on the roof ridge is the only legitimate air-gap, but in one +corner the meteorologist has a sort of external cupboard for his +instruments, which is bound to be cool. Everything went along +swimmingly. The official carpenter and two of the petty officers carved +out the more intricate details of carpentering, while the afterguard +soon became moderately expert at nailing matchboard, chiefly with +geological hammers. One of the scientists (subjected to criticism) +complained that he never could drive a nail straight while any one was +watching him. His tormentor declared that he must have afforded +amusement the whole day, and pointed to a complete series of wilted +nails due to the tyro’s efforts. For the roof-work the spiked boots of +the geologists were in great request, for it was possible for us to +manœuvre over the sloping boards at much greater speed than could +“Chips” and his assistants. + +On Sunday (the 8th) occurred an unfortunate accident, almost the sole +mishap since the loss of the ponies in the gale. We swung out the third +motor-car, having freed it from its case while it was inboard. + +It was landed on the sea-ice safely, and run smartly away to a firmer +surface fifty yards away. I then left the ship with a one-man +sledge-load bound for the hut. Captain Scott and Lieutenant Campbell +were testing the ice, and warned me to be especially careful of certain +wet patches near them. I got through to the shore without incident, but +this unhappily was not the case with the motor sledge, which started off +immediately afterwards. I was not present, but heard that it was pulled +across on to apparently firm ice near the doubtful portion, which had +just been crossed safely. There one of the men went through, but was +hauled out safely. He declared he felt himself being pulled under the +floe by the strong tidal current. Almost the next moment one corner of +the motor sledge sank, and then gradually the end, and finally the whole +of the machine crashed through the ice; and despite the utmost efforts +of the hauling party it sank in a hundred fathoms. Thus was lost nearly +a thousand pounds’ worth of valuable machinery, and since it is made +largely of aluminium, it corrodes extremely rapidly, and would not be +worth salvage, even if it were possible—now the ice is out—to grapple it +at that depth. + +During the building of the hut meals were eaten in a huge brown tent +alongside, and many of the afterguard slept in small tents on the shore. +A new type of these latter looks exactly like a rounded sun-helmet lying +on the ground. The rim is represented by the broad flap, which will be +covered with snow on sledging journeys, though now a handful of gravel +is sufficient to keep them secure. + +One evening I strolled into the skuary just behind the camp. Here are +hummocks of kenyte with little lakes and shelving gravelly beaches. In +the lakes a reddish plant akin to seaweed coats the bottom, and dries to +a leathery wrinkled mass. The skuas nest anywhere, not even a semblance +of a nest being perceptible. They resent intrusion very strongly, and +every one is at first slightly intimidated by the tremendous swoops, +rushing wings, fierce eyes, and shrill cries of protest. I wanted a +specimen, and decided to test a method of obtaining it, which smacked +somewhat of Munchausen when described to me in Australia. Taking a flat +slab of kenyte I waited until a skua was approaching. Then, before the +bird arrived, I threw the rock into the air almost straight up. The bird +collided with it as it was falling, and dropped to the ground stunned. +This scheme of hunting is really much more certain than it sounds, for +the bird has apparently no fear of objects above it. + +The ship was moved to a fresh berth, some five hundred yards nearer the +hut, and also nearer the slopes of Erebus. Henceforth almost all the +transport was effected by pony teams. There were many incidents at +first, for the ponies did not understand the icy surface, and were by no +means too subdued by their long voyage to object to most of the duties +demanded of them. Hackenschmidt is still obdurate, I believe, but the +others have calmed down, and done their four trips a day as long as it +was necessary. One soon gets to know their characteristics. Fiery +“Blücher” trots through all the work, whether he is pulling an empty +sledge or half a ton through a snowdrift; in fact, the driver is usually +dragged alongside over the ten miles involved. With a slippery surface +and only a single rope halter, it will readily be understood that four +legs can defeat two if the whim seizes him. One gentleman, rejoicing in +the name of “Guts,” broke away three times, just as I had lugged him the +weary mile to the ship, and galloped back unencumbered. But the +least-envied duty in the expedition is a morning in the company of +“Weary Willie.” With drooping lip and stubborn eye, he improves on a +crawl only when his driver precedes him with the halter over his +shoulder, and practically drags both pony and sledge. In spite of a +heavy load of patent fuel, he used to start back two steps to the minute +quicker, thinking he was returning to the pony lines, but this soon +degenerated to a crawl, and his objections to returning for another load +necessitated special help at the turning-point. There was another pony, +whom I only discovered on the last day, who was a happy mean between +Blücher and Weary. He was anonymous, but deserved a baronetcy. The last +loads consisted of patent fuel (in foot cubes) and compressed fodder, +while ballast, in the form of thirty tons of kenyte, was loaded from a +snow-slide and taken back to the _Terra Nova_. + +Many of our minor pursuits irresistibly reminded me of a childhood’s day +on the sands. There are little trenches to be dug, to lead telephone +wires to the Observatory hill; pemmican to be poked out of tins in solid +cakes just like the little sand-heaps moulded in toy buckets; miniature +bridges over the tiny creeks; and, most realistic of all, grottoes to be +carved out of solid banks—not of sand, but of hard, clear ice. + +The track to the Observatory hill passes along a miniature glacier with +a bank fifteen feet high on the nearer side. In this it was decided to +cut an “ice-house” for the mutton, and for seals and penguins. Next door +the physicists cut out another grotto for magnetic work. Each took about +a week to complete. + +A “drive” was made into the ice about six feet high and four feet wide. +At a convenient distance this was widened out to fifteen feet, and we +should probably have cut out a prosaic rectangular chamber, but that we +found that the floor of almost impenetrable frozen kenyte gravel sloped +up very steeply. Moreover, the sun melted the “glacier” at a great rate, +so that we had to leave a fairly thick roof. These restrictions produced +a very pretty style of architecture—a sort of double crypt with a +central partition, and gentle, sweeping curved roof, like an opened +cockle-shell lying with the convex sides uppermost. The sunlight +filtered through the roof and entrance wall, making the ice look like +alabaster. + +[Illustration: + + Sketch of two grottoes cut in glacieret near the hut, January 15, + 1911. +] + +It was hard work chipping the ice. We were helped by a few layers of +dust mixed with skua feathers—representing very ancient surfaces—along +which the ice broke readily. One half was covered with a rough flooring, +and on this were deposited a hundred carcases of sheep given by the New +Zealand farmers. In the other half a hundred penguins occupy one corner, +and later we shall add seal meat. + +A little nearer the hut the physicists excavated an =Ⅼ=-shaped grotto, +of severely rectangular cross section, and lacking those picturesque +sweeps in the roof which were necessary in the other cave. It penetrates +the “glacier” for about twenty-five feet, and is entered by an aperture +some three feet high. One feels very like a rabbit entering its burrow, +but this constriction is necessary to ensure equable temperature. A mild +blizzard was blowing while we were cutting it out, though in the +calm—not to say stuffy—atmosphere of the grotto a temperature of twenty +below freezing had little effect on one’s comfort. To be sure files, and +saws, and other iron tools developed an octopus-like surface, for they +stuck to one’s fingers as if smeared with gum. The wall struts—for the +lining—were cemented simply and effectively by a mush of ice and water, +which solidified immediately. Two large kenyte boulders formed jagged +obstructions on the floor. When foundations for the instrument standards +were being made, it was found that under the layer of gravel forming the +floor was another layer of ice. It is quite possible that our hut may be +built on gravel over a thick ice-sheet. This will be tested by a shaft +in the winter leisure. + +On the highest portion of Cape Evans is hoisted the Union Jack. Near by +is the meteorological screen, and two anemometers are merrily whirling +round. We have been laying telephone wires across the space between the +hill and the hut to connect the instruments there to the meteorological +laboratory (“corner” would be a better term) in the hut. + +On Sunday 15 work was suspended for a day, for everything was +progressing well. Many of the men took ski on to the slopes of Erebus, +behind the hut, and had a pleasant time, diversified by many tumbles, in +consequence. To the north of these slopes extended the hitherto +untraversed Barne glacier, which formerly blocked all communication with +Cape Royds during summer. Its seaward face is a high cliff of ice, +strongly crevassed, and reaching from Cape Evans to Cape Barne. Wright +and myself received permission to go on the glacier, and providing +ourselves with an alpine rope, ice-axes, food, and windproof clothing, +we set off up the rocky slopes behind the hut. We soon reached an +irregular snow surface deeply pitted where boulders had sunk, with +little runnels of water murmuring below the crusts in ice in numberless +little gullies. As the ice became more apparent we roped up and marched +to the north, gradually ascending the slope of the glacier. Our +objective at this time was the rock ridge behind Cape Barne, about two +and a half miles away. The glacier came down from Erebus in undulations +resembling gigantic rounded steps. It seemed probable to us that the +best surface would occur where the ice was in compression rather than in +tension. Here in the hollows the crevasses would tend to close up, and +we found them quite readily crossed. In the icy surface were broad +ribbons of snow, slightly depressed below the surface, and curving +grandly round the undulations of Erebus. These looked solid enough, but +an ice-axe hardly met with any resistance in the snow, and on sweeping +it away one could see a chasm extending indefinitely down. Higher up the +slope the snow formed bridges, but here in narrower crevasses it was +only of value in veiling the depth. However, it was a mere question of +jumping; the leader gathering in the rope and taking a good leap while +the follower drove his ice pick into the surface and held on firmly. If +there had been any great danger involved, two men would, of course, have +been insufficient, but we progressed in this fashion for a mile, then +crossed another mile of softish snow without crevasses, and reached the +Barne ridge, with rocks running from the coast halfway up to the crater +of Erebus. Here to our surprise we saw nothing but kenyte hummocks and +debris lying between us and Cape Royds. It would not have been human to +have resisted this opportunity of visiting the headquarters of the 1907 +expedition. After resting a little among the huge mounds of kenyte +boulders—actually bearing small tufts of red and green lichens—we +tramped quickly across alternating patches of rock and snow, past small +ice-covered lakes, and soon reached Back-door Bay. Here quite a large +stream—for Antarctica—was falling over an ice cliff, and we reached the +first sign of another settlement. This was a bamboo pole planted in a +cairn. Then we scrambled over slopes of kenyte gravel, skirting the +rotten ice which filled the outer part of Back-door Bay. The narrow gulf +at the north-east end of the bay still contained firm ice, and we +crossed this without attracting any remark from a colony of twenty +seals, and so reached Cape Royds. Here signs of occupation were very +evident, though the hut was some distance away on the further (northern) +slope of the hill. A sledge with cases of tinned meat, a ladder, and the +tubes of the hand-boring plant, had been left close to the water of +Back-door Bay. We carried off a tin of beef in case the hut contained +nothing more attractive. + +Following some old sledge tracks we topped a rise, and were right on the +hut. + +Every one is familiar with the appearance of Shackleton’s hut. It is +very snugly placed in a little dell leading to a small lake, which +empties into the sea over some steep cliffs a quarter of a mile away. It +seemed extraordinary that so many empty boxes and such piles of debris +could have been the result of fourteen months’ stay. I suppose our camp +will appear the same three years after we have departed. We skirted +round the ruined pony shelter, over boxes of cork packing and cases of +empty bottles. The door of the porch had carried away, but the inner +door was standing. A foot of ice sealed it at the bottom, but hanging on +the door was an envelope addressed in Professor David’s hand, “To Any +One who may visit Cape Royds.” It did not enter his mind when he placed +it there that an old student of his would be the first to see this. The +envelope contained a short account of the results of the 1907 +expedition, left there “in case the _Nimrod_ is lost on her return +voyage.” I carried the record back to Captain Scott, a very interesting +document, though luckily not of vital importance, since the expedition’s +success was not marred by any accident at the eleventh hour. + +We then set about getting into the hut. Cutting into the ice with our +ice-axes we came to a tightly fixed block of wood—which we thought had +been placed there to fasten the door. More chips of ice were removed by +the ice-axes, and we saw that it was merely a broom, which had fallen +down and been embedded its whole length in a foot of ice. There was +nothing for it but to cut away this stubborn sentinel, and then it was +possible to open the door a foot or so. + +We entered with much curiosity. All the windows had been covered with +battens, but I did not expect to find it so snug and untouched by the +weather. Not a grain of snow seems to have entered. We opened one +window, and the place might have been abandoned the day before. On the +low table in the centre a meal had been left. Condensed milk, saucers, +biscuits, jam, and gingerbread. The latter were very good, and not +harmed by two years’ exposure. At the back was a tray from the oven with +a batch of scones just cooked, and a loaf of bread. I lifted the latter, +and the whole outer surface peeled away, leaving a ball in the middle. +This is just the way basalt weathers when exposed to the air, and it is +known technically as “spheroidal weathering.” I did _not_ eat the bread. + +The 1907 expedition left in a hurry, I believe, which accounts for the +somewhat unkempt appearance of the hut. Boots were scattered on the +floor, books over the bunks, socks drying on lines. In one corner a +roulette machine, in another a packet of paper used in their printing +press. I fear I was most interested in tinned fruits, and searched +through a huge store of unused food in one corner of the hut. Tea, +pickles, jams, milk, onions, sausages, hams, cocoa, delicatessen, +everything but canned fruit. Finally we saw that the dark room was built +of cases of bottled fruit, and in honour of the first crossing of the +Barne Glacier we broached a case and extracted a bottle of gooseberries +and another of currants. It was a queer meal. I had brought bacon and +ship’s biscuit. Wright selected plum-pudding, sardines, and Nestle’s +milk. I found preserved ginger, raisins, and corned beef. We drank +alternately of currant and gooseberry vinegar, and ate through the above +menu. Antarctica is immune from dyspepsia, for we felt none the worse. + +We strolled round the headquarters. The penguins were very interesting, +for they were busy feeding half-fledged chicks. There are no nests near +Cape Evans, but the atmosphere is the purer! I was not prepared for the +shape and size of these chicks. They were nearly as tall as their +parents, and twice as large round the most important part of their +anatomy. Huge balls of dark grey fluff, with feeble little squeaks no +louder than a chicken’s—in strong contrast to the indignant cries of +their parents. + +After a couple of hours at Cape Royds we turned south and experienced no +difficulty until we reached the crevasses, for we followed our previous +track. The crevasses seemed to have widened a little; we were somewhat +tired, and the farther edge was now higher than the nearer. In some +examples—which we did not tackle—the difference in height reached two +feet. However, we crossed them safely (though in two instances one foot +went through the soft snow) and reached Cape Evans without misadventure. + +[Illustration: + + PHOTO OF THE HUT, SHOWING THE RAMP AND EREBUS, JAN. 20, 1911. + + The south annexe built of food cases (on the right) and the stable on + the left built of coal blocks are just being finished. +] + +[Illustration: + + PENGUIN COURTSHIP ON THE ICE-FOOT NEAR CAPE EVANS. +] + +Captain Scott had made a journey on a dog sledge to his old quarters +(1902) at Cape Armitage, sixteen miles south of us. Unluckily he found +his hut filled with ice and practically useless, so much so that they +slept outside. He had never seen the locality so free from snow. On the +25th of January he hopes to make a start on the depôt journey to the +south, and on the same day the western scientific party sets out to +explore Dry Valley, Snow Valley, and the Koettlitz Glacier. Captain +Scott has honoured me with the charge of this party, whose personnel I +have described previously. + +[Illustration: + + _Traced G T._ + + First sketch-map made January 21, 1911 (before any survey), showing + ice fronts and positions of ship, A-E +] + +We have now occupied our hut for a week. Let me close the story of these +early days by describing our life in the hut. To-morrow we leave it for +some months of sledge work, so that we have been very busy for some time +past. From the porch one enters the quarters assigned to the seamen and +cooks. A large galley-stove is placed on the right, and behind it is the +chief touch of colour in the hut in the form of rows of tins of food, +spices, and utensils. A bunk suspended high up from one corner by an +iron rod marks the resting-place of Engineer Lashley. To the left are +many wire mattresses supported on neat iron frames. A queer instrument +like a guitar cut in half is the cherished possession of Anton, the +Russian groom. His comical little bow when you address him—for he speaks +no English—reminds me of the action known as “louting low.” + +“For some time the ship had been lying quite close to the hut—about a +quarter of a mile away at the spot C (on the accompanying sketch-map). +The original edge of the ice is shown, and here the ship stayed (at A) +until the motor sank. Then she moved to B, nearer the Barne Glacier. On +the 18th she came along the crack which opened near the stranded bergs +to the position C. But seventeen bergs came into sight, and one huge +tabular, as if desirous of this site, bore right down on her. So the +ship moved across the Sound to get away from the northern wind. In +cruising about here, she ran aground at D off Cape Evans. There was +sixty feet of water under the stern and only seventeen feet at the bows! +That’s pretty steep! They ‘rocked’ her by running across ship in unison, +and after an hour got her off. I photographed her from the Cape where +the land party watched the efforts of the seamen.” + +Later I heard that this collision with the reefs of McMurdo Sound tore +out a small splinter a foot deep and about ten feet long! Luckily the +stout old ship could spare this at her bows without grave inconvenience. + +A bulkhead of boxes, amid which two branded “sherry” mark the +wherewithal of future festivities, separated the “mess deck” from the +“wardroom.” The latter occupies two-thirds of the hut, and here the +sixteen officers live. A long table extends down the middle and reaches +to a palatial inner room, sacred to Ponting, the photographer. The roof +of the latter is by no means wasted, but constitutes an important +laboratory. At the back are two incubators, not for eggs but for +parasites, bacteria, and other pleasant creatures fondly cared for by +Dr. Atkinson, whom we expect to see brooding for hours over his pets. +The centre of the room is thus accounted for. The right and left are +divided into cubicles. First, on the left, are five mattresses assigned +to Messrs. Oates, Meares, Bowers, Atkinson, and Cherry-Garrard. The +right wall was divided into three compartments, occupied respectively by +Messrs. Debenham, Gran and Taylor, Nelson and Day, Simpson and Wright. +We have to live in this space for six months of darkness, and as we are +limited horizontally to seventeen square feet each, it will not cause +surprise to find that we have imitated the New York sky-scrapers. The +first few hours of our house furnishing were devoted to amassing enough +thick timber to build strong frames for the mattresses. These are built +in tiers, and so each cubicle has some clear floor space. In our own +cubicle Debenham has raised his bunk five feet from the floor, and +underneath this will ultimately develop a whole geological laboratory! +In the far corner is a little oil-engine and dynamo, providing current +for Dr. Simpson’s meteorological apparatus. On a table at one of the two +windows is the “counter,” an important portion of the biologist’s +sanctum. The rest of it is below the counter! + +[Illustration: + + SHIP AGROUND ON A REEF OFF CAPE EVANS CLOSE TO THE TUNNEL BERG. + + The whaleboat is trying to tow off the ship, while a skua gull on the + cape is an interested spectator. +] + +[Illustration: + + GRIFFITH TAYLOR IN SUMMER RIG (ON A KEEN DAY) ON CAPE EVANS, JAN. 25, + 1911. +] + +Half the left side of the wardroom is in part partitioned off. Captain +Scott has one portion of this. His eastern boundary is a huge +drawing-table under our second window. On the other side of this, and +snugly fenced in by the dark room, are the quarters of Lieutenant Evans +and Dr. Wilson. + +Near the dark room are the stove and the pianola. The removal of the +latter from the ship nearly devastated the officers’ quarters afloat. +The stairs were removed, and we had to get into the ship’s wardroom down +a rope during the two days while they struggled with the pianola. +However, it has safely arrived, though just the last few days a new +gramophone has had greater popularity. + +During the two months of our absence the hut will be fitted with +acetylene lighting. The four officers and five men who remain have also +a contract to kill (and clean) a thousand penguins and skuas, so that +they will be as busy as the sledging parties. + +Outside the hut the sea waves now wash the kenyte gravel. In the last +two days a mile of sea-ice has floated off, and now the _Terra Nova_ is +hovering around only waiting to land the three parties (south, west, and +east) before she turns her prow to the green northern land. All our +preparations are made, and we join her to-morrow morning. + +The educative value and the interest of an expedition like this is +inestimable. I have tried to describe some of the features with which I +have been most impressed myself. During the voyage one learns something +of seamanship, of biology, of navigation, and of naval matters +generally. Firsthand information on every conceivable subject from men +who have seen many quarters of the world with an appreciative eye is +obviously full of interest. The biologist discusses those portions of +his subject which touch on geology or meteorology with students who are +as anxious to approach them from other standpoints. In another way also +is this expedition almost unique. It is hardly credible that twenty men +should associate for three months in somewhat cramped quarters without a +jar; yet I can truly say that the best of good fellowship has always +existed. This is the best possible omen for success in the future. + + [NOTE.—This narrative is left in the form in which it was sent back to + Australia in January, 1911, in the belief that nothing is lost (and + perhaps some touch of reality gained) by so doing.] + + + + + III + FIRST WESTERN EXPEDITION + + JANUARY–MARCH, 1911 + + + + + FIRST WESTERN EXPEDITION + + +On the 24th of January the ponies went over the sea-ice to Glacier +Tongue _en route_ for the Barrier Depôt trip. Captain Scott and the +western party sailed in the _Terra Nova_ to the Tongue, which we reached +about noon. + +Later we were able to study the Tongue in some detail, but we could see +that it consisted of a huge pier of ice about half a mile wide, and +projecting some five miles from the low cliffs south of Turk’s Head. The +surface was undulating, and about a hundred feet above the sea in the +centre. Its origin is doubtful. Probably it is old piedmont ice anchored +on some hidden ridge, but it is added to by blizzards sweeping over the +root of the Castle Rock Promontory and depositing snow on the leeward +side of the cape. We saw sections of it stranded fifty miles to the +north-west later, which proved its partial origin from snowdrifts. + +On the 25th Debenham, Wright, and myself marched to Hut Point, where the +1902 hut was situated. We took a light sledge and our sleeping-bags. It +was very interesting to recognize the places of which we had read in the +“Voyage of the _Discovery_.” Castle Rock was very prominent, a huge dark +square “keep” about two hundred feet above the promontory; “Danger +Slope”—an icy slope dropping down to 150 feet ice cliffs—on which Vince +lost his life early in 1903. The conical hill, seven hundred feet high, +just east of Vince’s Cross, was Observation Hill; destined to carry +another cross two years later to the memory of the man who had built the +hut below. + +Off Hut Point the sea-ice was very rotten and full of huge holes. +However, we reached the ice-foot easily enough, and pulled up to the +hut. The surroundings were very tidy compared to Shackleton’s quarters, +which was very natural, for the 1902 expedition practically lived in the +ship. It was surrounded by tremendous eaves, which were meant to protect +stores, etc. We found the door blocked by ice, and had to enter by a +window. It was filled with snow to a depth of four feet, which had +drifted in through various openings. We found a bulwark of biscuit boxes +in the middle, and various stores of chocolate, etc. Some brownish +powder, after some cogitation, we determined to be pepper. It had quite +“lost its savour” in the ten years of exposure. Alongside were the +little magnetic huts. Wright commandeered some asbestos sheets for our +own magnetic equipment, and then we set off to see the real object of +our visit. + +[Illustration: + + Original geological sketch by Captain Scott (January 19, 1911), + directing our attention to an unusual outcrop at Hut Point. +] + +Captain Scott had noticed an exposure of lamellar rocks of a sandy +appearance among the almost uniformly dark basic rocks of this region, +and, although no geologist, he realized that it was possible that a +fragment of the well-known Beacon Sandstone (a fossil-bearing rock) had +been torn up by a basic lava on its passage to the surface. This would +show the relative age of the two rocks concerned (the lava, of course, +being younger), and so was well worth investigating. We found the +outcrop readily enough from Captain Scott’s sketch, but Debenham and I +decided that it was a weathered variety of eruptive rock, and not of +sedimentary origin. + +Two other appearances were noticeable here, which were worth recording +because we saw them later in various other quarters of Victoria Land. We +could not account for them from our first example. On the steep face of +the cliff (five hundred feet high) near where poor Vince slipped to his +doom, were four long horizontal ridges—one above the other—of dark +masses of rock. They resembled lateral moraines left by giant glaciers, +but I believe they are due to debris rolling down to the foot of a snow +slope. The latter varies in extent with varying seasons, and so the +debris ridge may be deposited at another level. + +Another very curious feature soon attracted our notice. All the more or +less level lowland around Cape Armitage, as well as the bare plateau of +Crater Heights, was marked out like a gigantic tesselated pavement. I +noted in my journal, “The lowlands of loose black rock appear to be +rolled by a steam roller, while the surface is broken by gutters from +four to eight inches deep.” These gutters marked out hexagonal and +polygonal areas some twenty or thirty feet across. When a light snowfall +had collected in the gutters, the valleys seemed to have been paved with +black tiles united by white mortar. + +These symmetrical polygons are due to a slow movement of half-frozen +soil, which has been noted in polar lands, and is called solifluxion or +soil-creep. We saw many examples of these tesselations in the western +moraines. + +We walked back to the camp on the sea-ice, pulling the asbestos sheets +on the sledge. There was some cold tea to spare in Nelson’s tent, and we +were glad to make our meal off this and some biscuits. Then, pillowing +my head on a camera, I coiled into my sleeping-bag, and so spent my +first night on trek. + +On the next morning we were told that we could ride back to the ship on +the dog sledges. Nothing loth, we tied our sledge behind Meares’, and +soon covered the eight miles. + +The dogs pulled rapidly, but seemed to need frequent rests. It was much +more lively than “man-hauling.” Meares’ constant cries, “Tchui—Tchui! +Ky—Ky!” directed the leading dog, and the six pairs behind him swerved +left or right in unison. There were numerous seals on our route, and +Meares had considerable trouble to keep the dogs to the straight path of +duty. One ginger seal especially excited their interest, and ours also, +for the colour is most uncommon. Usually the seals are a dull fawn +brown, though the breast is often beautifully mottled with white spots. + +My first seal-killing had been done a day or two before. + +After dinner Wright and I had marched off on hunting bent. We walked +over the great South Road—where we had cleared a track for the ponies +over Cape Evans—and reached Gully Bay. Just over the tide crack we came +on three seals; one beautifully dappled, one small and dark, and a huge, +big fellow. We wanted the skin for making sandals, and so attacked the +biggest specimen. There was not much attack about it! You just hit him +hard on the nose, as Wright did with an ice-axe, and then stab him under +the fore-flipper, as I did with my Serbish dagger. To make sure, we +pole-axed him also. Then we skinned him with considerable difficulty, +for two of us could hardly make the body budge! The skin and blubber +were two inches thick and frightfully slippery; you could not grip it. +We had to drive the ice-axe into the loose flap of hide, and so +gradually drag the carcase into the positions necessary for flaying. We +left the hide on the head and limbs, and then cut through the +cartilaginous breastbone and secured the huge liver—about forty pounds +of it, I expect. We intended to drag the hide back with a rope, but all +we could manage was the liver, of which I hung a part on each +forefinger. Then we walked back to the hut, about half an hour’s +journey, and when we arrived I gave the liver to the cook. I soon found +that my fingers were frostbitten, and through inexperience I stayed in +the hut. For five minutes I tramped up and down with an almost +unbearable pain in my fingers very like toothache. Never again did I +expose my hands in the Antarctic in any constrained position, so that +this first slight mishap was a good lesson to me. + +On the 27th of January the ship left Glacier Tongue, to carry our party +to the western side of MacMurdo Sound, a distance of thirty miles. I got +a photo of the face of the Tongue—showing queer little bulbous icicles +where the swell of the tide had licked them. The Tongue rises and falls +with the tide, and so there was no very definite crack between it and +the sea-ice at its end. Little did we think that this century-old +natural wharf was to be torn away from its moorings a few weeks later! + +Now that all chance of adding to our equipment had passed, we found that +several important matters required attention. For instance, my +ski-boots—in which I had to traverse rocky slopes for six +weeks—developed a hole thus early in the campaign! This apparently +trivial matter bulked very largely in the succeeding journey, and though +they were roughly cobbled on board and stiffened with all sorts and +conditions of nails—none being very suitable—they were a constant source +of worry. + +In the afternoon we approached Butter Point, passing through a belt of +“brash ice” to reach it. This curiously named headland is where the 1902 +party started to explore the western valleys. Here a supply of butter +was left for the returning travellers to reward them with a toothsome +dish of fried seal’s liver (if they had “first caught their seal”). + +Butter Point is really the north-east end of a “piedmont” glacier. It is +a mass of ice—almost stagnant—which covers a coastal shelf some five +miles wide between the foothills and the sea. The snow slopes rose +rapidly to a hundred feet or so, and then more gradually to five hundred +feet. Many unsuccessful attempts to fix an ice-anchor in the hard snow +(covering the glacier) resulted in our moving north a short distance, +where a grip was obtained when the anchors were carried some two hundred +yards inshore. + +On the summit of the snow ridge, about half a mile away, we saw the pole +of the depôt left by the 1907 expedition. This was now visited by a +sledge party to depôt provisions for the forthcoming northern journey in +spring. + +In the meantime our two sledges were lowered on to the ice, and packed +in readiness for our start. The sledges differed in size, one being +twelve feet long, and the other only nine feet. The latter Evans +evidently regarded as the apple of his eye, but weight for weight it was +much less efficient than the larger sledge, since it weighed almost as +much, but could not carry three-quarters of the load. We had a heavy +equipment for four men, averaging about 270 lbs. each, but as we were +only proposing to take one sledge for a considerable portion of the +journey, this was of little importance. + +Our total load was as follows:— + + LBS. + _Sledges, etc._ Twelve-feet sledge 52 + Nine-feet sledge 47 + Two instrument boxes 14 + Iron under-runners 52 + ——— + Total 165 + ——— + _Food and Fuel, etc._ Oil tins on platform 78 + One tin of spirits 5½ + Seven weeks’ food 250 + Biscuits (four boxes) 196 + Ready bag (one week) 41 + Boxes protecting biscuit 52 + Cooker 7½ + ——— + Total 630 + ——— + _Tools, etc._ Three ice-axes ... 8½ + Crowbar and shovel 14 + Candles 3 + Lantern 1½ + Alpine rope 11 + Bamboos 2¼ + Tent and poles 26 + Four sleeping-bags 49 + Repair bag, etc. 14 + ——— + Total 130 + ——— + _Instruments, etc._ Theodolite 11½ + Aneroids, etc. 1 + Zeiss camera 8 + Six dozen plates 12 + Goerz camera 7 + Three dozen plates 6 + Box camera and films 7 + Polariscope 5 + Binoculars 3 + Compass, abney, etc. 5 + ——— + Total 65 + ——— + _Personal Gear_ 50 + ——— + LBS. + Totals Sledges, etc. 165 + Food, etc. 630 + Tools, etc. 130 + Instruments, etc. 65 + Personal 50 + ———— + 1040 + ———— + +[Illustration: + + MODEL OF COUNTRY TRAVERSED ON FIRST JOURNEY. + + Outward journeys, Butler Point to Alcove Camp and Butler Point to + Heald Island, shown. See also folding map at end of book. C = + Cathedral Rocks. D.I. = West Dailey Island. K = Knob Head. D = Davis + Bay Depôt. H = Heald Island. N = Nussbaum Riegel. W = Walcott + Glacier. +] + +Several items in this list may be commented on. The heavy steel sledge +runners were designed to fit under the wooden runners of the sledge, to +take the wear and tear when we were crossing the rough ice of the +glaciers. No favourable occasion for their use arose until half our +journey was completed, and then, as will be seen, the trial resulted in +the smashing of the large sledge. We also carried the biscuit tins +enclosed in their stout wooden cases up and down the Ferrar glacier, +with the idea of preserving the biscuits from breakage. The cases were +discarded on our return to Butter Point without any inconvenience from +broken biscuit resulting. These two items alone constituted one-tenth of +our load, and we were glad when trials showed that we could get along +much better without them. + +It will be noticed that an exceptionally large photographic battery was +carried. This was necessitated by the character of the problems which +engaged our attention. For instance, Wright was chiefly interested in +the forms of ice structure which we encountered. The most delicate +ice-crystals, which withered at a breath, must needs be photographed _in +situ_. There was no possibility of his bringing back specimens for study +in the hut during the dark winter months. For similar reasons a somewhat +bulky polariscope—in which sheets of ice were examined in polarized +light—formed part of Wright’s load, and accompanied him in a rucksack +wherever he went. Debenham was engaged on the more usual work of +collecting specimens, mapping their occurrence in the field, and +studying the relations of the various rocks. For this purpose another +camera was essential, since in general his investigations were carried +out in the cliffs at some distance from the rest of us. The subject +which primarily interested myself may be popularly described as the +bearing of geology on scenery—in other words, “How has the land surface +been affected by the flow of glaciers, by the action of wind, frost, +water, and ice? How do the resulting features differ from those observed +in more temperate regions where water plays such an important part and +ice erosion is absent?” + +During February we obtained nearly a hundred photographs illustrating +the typical valleys, glaciers, moraines, and general topography of the +western mountains, which it is hoped will help to settle the question, +“How do glaciers erode the deep valleys they occupy?” But early in March +our cameras became practically useless, for the cold stiffened the +shutters and the snow obliterated the details of the landscape. + +I asked Pennell to take some soundings off the glacier mouth, for it has +been supposed that glaciers cut their troughs out even below the surface +of the sea. Rivers, of course, cannot erode below this level, so that +this investigation was of importance in connection with the Ice _versus_ +Water Erosion hypotheses. He found only seventy fathoms (420 feet), +which bears little resemblance to the glacier-cut fiords of Norway, some +6000 feet below sea-level. There is often so much silt and debris +washing down from these valleys, that it may be possible that a deep +rock trough has been filled thereby. But I think it improbable for +reasons which will appear later. + +Debenham went off with the eastern party to examine the depôt on Butter +Point. Priestley was able to identify many of the articles here as +having been left by David on the magnificent magnetic Pole journey. +Meanwhile, Wright, Evans, and I got our stores and sledges on to the ice +and started packing. Some of the seamen went off to kill a seal, +accompanied by our doctor, Levick. The latter was to show them a humane +and speedy way of ending the seal. He described the method to us on his +return, but the effect was spoilt by the butcher declaring that the seal +had travelled a hundred yards after Levick had officially killed it! + +Debenham had arranged his northern depôt by six o’clock, and then our +party put the finishing touches to our two sledges. With the zeal of a +new leader, I advised donning wind-proofs as evening drew on; but +experience showed later that they were rarely needed until mid-February! + +I left my trusty “mousetrap” camera on board, some one snapping a photo +of us just before the start. + +About 6.30 we pulled off from the ship across the sea-ice which +separated us from the glacier. The surface was good, and we dragged the +sledges about five miles before camping. We headed for the northern side +of the glacier. The southern side of the Ferrar was really more direct, +but it was cut up into gullies and pinnacles such as made sledging +almost impossible. + +I asked Evans to cook during the first week; and Debenham was cook’s +mate, to follow on later. So upon halting Evans took charge of the +cooker and proceeded to light the primus, while Wright and I erected the +tent over him. Debenham filled the outer cooker with ice and then joined +us in piling snow blocks on the flounce of the tent. After seeing that +all was secure on the sledges we dived into the tent, and sitting on our +rolled-up bags proceeded to change our socks. All of us, except the +unfortunate cook, who was too busy mixing pemmican and salt and pepper +and thickers—measuring out chocolate and cocoa, etc.—to have any time to +attend to socks! This was one reason why cooking was not more popular! +Our wet socks were hung on a rope slung upon the sledges, and by morning +the frozen moisture had evaporated (ablated) completely off. + +However, on this particular evening, while the pemmican was being +cooked, Wright and I walked a mile or so to the south and reached a +lateral “tongue” or prolongation of the main glacier. There was a sudden +rise of some three feet, and the surface, in place of being level and +comparatively smooth, was carved out into deep irregular bowls with +overhanging margins. These were in all probability giant “sunholes,” and +their floors were covered with a most beautiful carpet of snow crystals. +Examined closely, each crystal plate was like the segment of a fan +strengthened by cross-ribs. These plates were often half an inch across. + +The whole structure of sunholes, crystals, and hummocking ice reminded +me of nothing so much as the appearance of a coral reef, and I suggested +the name “coral-reef surface” for the type of ice and snow weathering. + +We returned and found the “hoosh” nearly ready. I read the sledging +orders which Captain Scott had given me a few days previously. + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: + + Letter of Instruction to Griffith Taylor, Esq. +] + +As usual we found the pemmican too rich at first, and I note that I +could only eat three of the biscuits! This delicate appetite did not +survive many days of Antarctic sledging. I slept soundly, only waking +once at four; but the thought that I carried the chronometer and was +responsible for the punctual rising at 7.30 (6.30 local time) made me +uneasy for many ensuing mornings! + +We did not expect to return by this route, so that I thought it +advisable to investigate the physiography of the lower end of the +glacier. After breakfast we all went over to the south side of the +valley. Wright was soon busy on hands and knees investigating the +beautiful “fan” crystals. Debenham and I walked on further to some +isolated moraine heaps, which projected about ten feet above the ice. I +made a traverse over the glacier as far as the lower slope of the hills +with the following results. The moraine heaps seemed to be the outward +and visible sign of a large continuous ridge—or sheet—most of which was +buried in old ice and snow. The mingling of fine silts and huge +boulders, some four feet long, was characteristic of a glacial deposit, +and a few doubtful striæ were present. Many varieties of rock were +represented, granites, recalling the famous “Shap” of the Lake District; +splendid porphyries with large almond-like felspars in a brown matrix; +gneisses of many varieties with parallel layers of glistening mica and +dull black hornblende; and some crystalline limestones and much +dolerite; both of which occurred _in situ_ about ten miles further west. +These elongated silt and boulder ridges showed deep cracks along their +sides, indicating, I imagine, considerable movement of the glacier which +bore them. + +The next half a mile was rather difficult travelling, through pinnacle +ice and through large lately frozen pools of water. Very striking were +some of the ice-forms here. “Topsy-turvy” icicles, whose original +support had almost melted away—leaving them attached below and +surmounted with knobs like hatpins, and unsupported crusts of ice which +dropped one into a pool of water, were types that made the most lasting +impression. I soon reached the land—a sunny slope facing the noon sun. +Here several merry little brooks hurried down over the powdery silt to +hide themselves beneath the glacier. To be sure, they were only an inch +deep and meandered across little channels a couple of feet wide, but +they were unusual enough to excite interest. Gradually the silts changed +into a pebbly soil, and this into a uniform layer of coarse gravel as I +ascended the slope. Larger stones and boulders became common, and one +specimen seemed of special interest. It was a fragment of coarse granite +some six inches long, with its upper surface weathered to such an extent +that every felspar appeared as a separate glistening brick; yet the +moiety of the granite buried in the silt was as smooth as any pebble +from the beach. I consider it by no means improbable that this +relatively large amount of “weathering” had been accomplished while this +fragment lay in its present insecure situation. + +A little higher up the slope I was amazed to see a carpet of green moss, +as flourishing as any in more temperate regions. I sat down on a granite +erratic, and noted that three types of vegetation were present. One was +a veritable moss, to my unbotanical eyes, the ordinary moss of universal +distribution. Of the other two species, which may have been algæ, one +resembled the seaweed called _Ulva_, and the other had a somewhat +fibrous structure. The patch of green was sixty feet long and about +fifteen feet wide, and is possibly the largest area of vegetation south +of 77½°! I was under the impression that these forms were quite common +around MacMurdo Sound, but if I had known that they were inhabited by a +most interesting primitive flea, I should certainly have added some to +our load. However, we obtained thousands of the insects next year at +Granite Harbour. + +On my return I found that Evans had laboriously collected the fragments +of a shell, which, pieced together, built up a red scallop. He picked it +up on the moraine, where it may have been blown by the wind. + +We inspanned at noon, and before lunch reached the low ridges marking +the junction of the centre of the glacier with the sea-ice. Here we +obtained fresh water for the cooker, by cutting some three inches +through the sea-ice. Evidently at this season the sub-glacial drainage +overpowered the sea-water at this spot, which was eight or nine miles +from the open sea. + +To the north of this was that remarkable “Double Curtain” glacier, which +is photographed in the _Discovery_ volume. After lunch Wright and I +decided to walk in that direction, and we soon saw we should be +justified in devoting some hours to its examination; while Debenham came +along later and collected the varied rocks in the vicinity. As we +approached the northern slopes the surface of the Ferrar Glacier altered +in character, and gave place to large lake-like areas of ice, which +exhibited most beautiful figures on close examination. In the upper +layers of the ice were included radiating designs which resembled a +miniature Hampton Court maze in porcelain embedded in glass. These +intricate patterns—which are characteristic of glacier ice—I termed +“Arabesques.” They are due, I imagine, to some variation in the +solidifying water, perhaps owing to air being squeezed into the latest +ice formed—or again show where stones have sunk deep into the glacier. + +Somewhat nearer the shore there were more unpleasant surfaces met +with—large dome-covered ponds into which we fell at frequent intervals. +We decided that a tramp over the Crystal Palace would give rise to the +same sensations. Bounding the glacier and separated from the debris +slopes by a wide stream was an avenue or colonnade of gigantic ice +pinnacles thirty feet high. These were traversed by narrow crevasses, +down one of which I had to climb to rescue an ice-axe. The sun +glistening on the icy minarets and beautiful icicles made a most +impressive sight. This ice ridge is due to pressure from the glacier +piling the ice against the cliff higher up. This crenellated selvage to +the more level central level centre of the glacier—moves to the sea with +the main body, and so preserves its lateral position, though no pressure +can exist where we saw it—for it is many yards from the rock. + +Between the pinnacle ridge and the slopes was the water-bearing channel +which invariably accompanies a large glacier in these regions. This +physiographic feature is one of the most interesting and most important +in connection with the characteristic topography of Antarctic valleys. +The small valley bounded by ice on one side and rock on the other is +conveniently termed the _Lateral moat_. Hereabouts it was rather +complex, but further up the main glaciers its valley occupied merely a +simple V. After crossing the pinnacles we had to negotiate a stream in +which the water lay in pools several feet deep—though its flow was +comparatively small. Then over a silt moraine and so across another +slight depression to the talus slopes below the “Double Curtain” +tributary glaciers. It seemed a simple matter at first to investigate +the glacier front, but it lay much further up the slope than I had +imagined, and was moreover protected by an icy mantle of frozen thaw +water which surrounded the snout. Wright cut steps across this “mantle,” +and found that the almost vertical face of the glacier was forty feet +high, and composed of layers of snow which had only lately reached the +condition of ice. + +[Illustration: + + MY FIRST CAMP IN ANTARCTICA AT THE SNOUT OF THE FERRAR GLACIER. + + Over a mile away is the Double Curtain Cliff Glacier. The Kukri Hills + are 3000 feet high. The Snout is only ten feet above the sea-ice on + which is the tent. The socks are hung out to dry on the sledge. +] + +[Illustration: + + PHOTO TAKEN JUST BEFORE WE PACKED THE SLEDGES FOR THE FIRST SLEDGE + JOURNEY, JAN. 27, 1911. + + Note the biscuits in the four venesta cases. The men are wearing + windproof blouses. + + [_See p. 120._ +] + +Meanwhile I climbed up the steep rock slopes alongside the glacier. At +first the rocky debris was a confused jumble of granites, dolerites, and +basalt, with occasional limestones and gneisses. At 2500 feet elevation +I reached the top of the slope and stood on the great shoulder which +characterizes the Kukri Hills hereabouts. Here solid rock was +plentiful—the same gray granite traversed by long dykes of dark basic +rock. A wonderful panorama was spread out before me. I could see up the +Ferrar Glacier as far as Knob Head. To the south-west jutted out the +three giant gables—like the roof of a Gothic cathedral—which were so +appropriately named Cathedral Rocks. + +I was much interested in my first view of Descent Pass, by which we +proposed to reach the Koettlitz Glacier. Still further to the south-west +the spurless wall of the Ferrar was notched by the “Overflow.” The +latter appeared to spill out through a gloomy curving gorge which +indisputably showed evidence of water erosion. In the far west towered +the massive Royal Society Range, culminating in Mt. Lister. Its eastern +face was carved into rounded “armchair” valleys (cwms) and deep +razor-back ridges—another type of topography which has been recognized +in temperate regions as characteristic of glacial erosion. + +On descending to the main glacier I found that the others had collected +several small sponges and shells from the small silt moraine in the +lateral moat. These organic remains are puzzling, for it is difficult to +imagine that such light and fragile specimens indicate a sea-beach, +which could only have raised so many feet above the sea at some far +distant period. + +Objects of greater biological interest had been encountered on our walk +to the side of the glacier. In the rough ice we saw many Emperor +Penguins, stolidly motionless and obviously awaiting the end of their +moulting season. We crossed over towards them and found that there were +several flocks, probably totalling one hundred. + +In the nearest group were thirty-six individuals, only one of which had +completed moulting. + +He was singled out for sacrifice and fell by a blow on the neck. Evans +and I dragged him to our camp, where I skinned and cleaned the carcase +in preparation for a change of diet if our appetite failed on a pemmican +regime. The limbs I hacked off with my new bowie knife, and I was +chagrined to find that penguin bones can chip the best Sheffield blade! + +Already my boots began to give trouble. The soft leather sole would not +hold the short nails, which only were available on the _Terra Nova_, so +that I attempted to mend matters by driving in some Canadian lumber +spikes supplied by Wright. + +After Wright had taken another round of angles with the theodolite we +moved on up the Ferrar Glacier. The surface degenerated rapidly. The +flatter portions were sun-carved into serried ranks of projections like +plough-shares, and we used the term “Plough-share Ice” to describe this +feature. Although this was unpleasant to walk on, yet the sledges +travelled over it readily—for as a general rule bad walking meant easy +pulling, and _vice versa_. But great holes, two or three feet deep, were +cut out below the general level, and these were closer together as we +moved further west. They were crusted with fan crystals, and indeed +represented a stage of surface evolution which I have described as +“coral reef structure.” We had much difficulty in guiding the sledges, +and they capsized several times before lunch. Every now and again the +sledge runners would jam, sending a jar through one’s frame, so that +this unpleasant experience became known—quite naturally—as a “jam-jar.” + +Towards evening we approached the first series of pressure rolls. +Crossing diagonally (from south to north) were four frozen rivers which +formed tempting surfaces, but unfortunately in the wrong direction, for +they led to the broken ice of the Overflow. + +We camped in an undulation filled deeply with hard snow, a little below +a fine tributary glacier and nearly opposite the Overflow. + +On the 30th we started up some steep undulations. We had anticipated +easy going, for Evans, on his 1902 journeys, had always encountered +clear smooth ice here. But the ice was buried under a foot of snow and +only showed in occasional holes. I made brief notes of the surfaces +throughout the day, at our various halts, and they are characteristic of +glacier sledging and so are here reproduced. + +“_First Halt._ Heavy going up the undulations; three of them traversed +already; the surface is smooth but the runners stick to the snow. + +“_Second Halt._ We have crossed the head of quite a deep snow-covered +valley crossing the glacier,—on both sides were numerous crevasses, but +they were not wide, the largest being under three feet. I slipped in +twice, and Evans and Wright had similar mishaps (in no case, however, +did both feet go in). Definite snow bridges over crevasses. We halted at +a dead seal, obviously a young specimen and yellowish in colour. + +“_Third Halt._ We can see a good lateral moraine at the foot of the +cliffs, for we are gradually rising up a steep slope with a bad surface. +Only a few narrow cracks. + +“_Fourth Halt._ Still on the same slope, which is hard going and causes +much sweat, chiefly owing to our rather heavy loads, as the slope is +only three degrees. + +“_Fifth Stage._ Same surfaces; stopped for lunch, having done 3600 paces +in three-quarters of an hour (_fide_ pedometer). + +“_Sixth Stage._ The surface became less damnable and we did a mile in +which short patches of ice appeared under one inch of powdery snow. Some +‘glass-roof’ ice is appearing into which we fall, and the snow is still +one foot thick in many places. + +“_Seventh Stage_ (5 p.m.). We are reaching plough-share ice. + +“_Eighth Stage._ Snow is falling on the northern slopes, but does not +reach down to our level. + +“_Ninth Stage._ Much better surface, nearly all ice, though the snow has +powdered it to a greyish colour. + +“_Tenth Stage._ ‘Arabesques’ are showing in the clear ice underfoot, +they seem to mark fairly old solid ice and indicate good travelling. + +“_Eleventh Stage_ (8 p.m.). Crossing the glacier to Cathedral Rocks; +surface good, but the moraine seems a long way ahead. + +“_Twelfth Stage_ (9 p.m.). Stopped near the big moraine after heavy +pulling over two inches of soft snow. Camped on big patch of hard snow +by a huge boulder.” + +We spent the forenoon making our depôt at this camp. It lay four miles +north-west of Descent Pass, and would be on our route if we decided to +return to the sea by the Pass. We left here what we did not require +during our fortnight in the Dry Valley region. We piled three biscuit +boxes on the smaller sledge, and packed the smaller provision bags under +the sledge. We put the butter inside the instrument box with the spare +photographic plates. Also I decided to leave the heavy steel +under-runners, for so far we had met with no rough ice. The penguin had +been lashed on behind the sledge and had suffered considerably from the +capsizes! Him we buried under some blocks of snow, pending a “hoosh” on +our return. We took a fortnight’s provisions in addition to the +“ready-bag,” and I tied a note to our depôt flag, mentioning the 11th as +the probable date of our return. + +Just to the west of the main Cathedral Rocks was a very interesting +tributary valley—the first real low-level tributary of which we had had +a good view. Obviously owing to some difference in the snow-supply, this +tributary is keeping pace with the main glacier, and enters the latter +“at grade.” The majority of the other tributaries have not entered the +Ferrar on a level (at grade) since it was two thousand feet thicker. + +The sun was quite powerful, and we had to wear goggles in consequence, +but during our ensuing stay in Dry Valley there was so much bare rock +that we had no need for them. At lunch my unlucky boots fell to pieces +again, and Evans put some scientific sewing into them. But no sewing +held, until continual frost turned the leather into a material almost as +strong as steel. + +Towards six o’clock we reached the top of the steeper portion of the +Ferrar Glacier, and found ourselves on a small ice plateau about 3200 +feet above sea-level. On the south it rose to the south arm, while to +the north was the entrance to Dry Valley. The col of ice leading in this +direction is of considerable interest, for it shows what conditions were +like near Luzern in the Great Ice Age. However, I will describe this +form of “Twin Glacier” in a later paragraph. + +A few miles before we camped we were hauling the sledge along the foot +of the grandest geological section I have ever seen. The cliff was 3300 +feet high (as determined by Abney level), and was divided into so many +distinct layers that it resembled a gigantic sandwich! It was capped by +a little triangle of yellowish rock, which represents the most eastern +exposure of the Beacon Sandstone in the valley. Beneath this were two +wonderful “sills,” or horizontal sheets of the basic lava called +dolerite. They could be traced in the cliffs for miles and miles, and +represented flows of lava wedged in between the granites and sandstones. +These dolerite sills were strongly columnar, and near by some isolated +pillars of enormous size were visible on the skyline. Above and below +the lower of these black sills were layers of grey granite, and the +lower portions of the granite were shrouded in a steep slope of brownish +talus which reached to the flashing white surface of the great glacier. + +[Illustration: + + The wonderful geological “sandwich” near the Dun and Hedley Glaciers. + (The 3000-foot cliff at the south-west end of Kukri Hills, February + 10, 1911.) In descending order: _yellow_ beacon sandstone; black + dolerite; red-grey granite; black dolerite; red-grey granite; dark + brown talus. +] + +I hoped to reach the head of the Dry Valley glacier that evening, so +that we pulled on till 9 p.m., and reached the beginning of the slope to +the north. Here we formed our Fifth Camp just abeam of a tributary +glacier—which, from its shape, we called the “South America” glacier. We +had some difficulty in fixing the tent-flaps, for the glacier was now +practically free from snowdrift, and there was nothing to weight down +the skirt of the tent. But the night was calm and warm, so that I walked +across to the lateral moat without helmet or gloves in perfect comfort. + +_February 1, 1911._—To our surprise—after five days’ pulling over heavy +snow in the Ferrar Glacier—we found no snow in the adjoining valley! We +made across the valley a little to reach the medial moraine, and to get +away from the disturbed ice at the corner. At lunch we camped in a huge +hole alongside a giant boulder of granite. Here alone we found enough +snow to secure the tent. Water was obtained from a mass of slushy ice on +the sunny side of an adjacent boulder. + +Many points of interest appeared round us. All over the clear ice were +circular patches of darker ice, varying in size from an inch to two +feet. Embedded in the darker ice were the arabesque patterns described +previously. These dark patches marked where stones had gradually sunk +through the glacier, as the sun’s rays—rendered operative by radiation +from their dark surfaces—melted the ice around them. As a consequence, +only the most massive blocks remained above the ice hereabouts, and the +medial moraine—in place of being a continuous ridge of heaped +debris—consisted of a block here, another twenty feet off, a third +somewhat further, and so on along a line down the valley. + +On the slopes of the north, under Obelisk Mountain, were two interesting +glaciers. We named them from their shape “Catspaw” and “Stocking” +Glaciers. They spread over a low range of hills shaped somewhat like a +broad terrace, and from my sketch it seems possible to prove +considerable retrogression on the part of the “Catspaw.” In 1903 the +“paw” was furnished with relics of a well-defined “mantle” in the form +of three “claws” prolonging the glacier some hundreds of feet. There was +no trace of these in 1911. The irregular outline of this glacier +suggests that it originally spread out and perhaps joined with the +Stocking (to the east) and other isolated curtain glaciers. Hence the +absence of any trace of a valley below these glaciers. They merely +“spill” over the broad terrace and hang there supinely, quite +unconnected with the main glacier below. This absence of marked erosion +is, to my mind, a very important point, and similar features constantly +occur. + +The gullies in the Solitary Rocks afforded an interesting piece of +evidence as to the relation of outcrop to weathering. One of the trials +of physiography is to decide how much of the outline of a valley must be +set down to the varying resistances of the rocks involved, and how much +is due to the generalized type which marks the physiographic age of the +valley. For instance, a narrow gorge usually marks a valley of _late_ +origin; but it _may_ be due to a hard band of granite and be quite +local, the rest of the valley having the broader features of the +_mature_ stage of erosion. To return to our local evidence. I was glad +to see that the gullies intersecting the Solitary Rocks crossed the +unconformity (junction) between the dolerite and granite without any +change in their outline, proving that these two rocks offered much the +same resistance to weathering. + +As in the Ferrar, the frozen surface streams ran across the glacier +diagonally towards the north-east. Perhaps this uniform northerly +direction was due to the greater melting on the northern side of the +glaciers by the noon sun. + +About six o’clock the slope became too steep for the sledges. We halted, +therefore, about a mile from the snout and prospected for a good camp +site. There was no snow anywhere, and the edge of the glacier was a +steep slope some forty feet high, down which it would be little +advantage to lower the sledge. The centre of the glacier was cut up by +surface streams into asymmetric gullies twenty or thirty feet deep. +Along the sunny (southern) side of these gullies were a series of +“alcoves” arranged like the stalls of a choir. They were thirty feet +deep, and about a hundred across, and were most beautiful objects—their +steep faces being fretted into a thousand pilasters and niches. + +On the northern side these alcoves were much smaller, but presented the +same features. We lowered the sledge down a convenient gully in the wall +by means of the alpine ropes, and proceeded to pitch our tent on the +rough ice forming the level floor of the alcove. These were ideal +conditions for a sheltered camp—with the exception of the floor. We had +a strongly-running stream an inch deep alongside which led to an amusing +incident one evening. However, it was a good site, and though the wind +howled along the surface of the glacier, nothing was even disturbed in +our sheltered nook. + +I decided to spend two days round the snout of the glacier before moving +down the valley towards the sea. The “groin” blocking the valley +attracted my attention, though I was afraid it might prove to be merely +a 500-foot moraine. So we arranged to spend the day in the matters most +interesting to us. Debenham climbed up some 2000 feet to the “coaly” +debris on the Kukri Hills. Wright (and Evans) investigated the physics +of the ice in the vicinity of Alcove Camp. Debenham and I started +together down the glacier, and experienced considerable difficulty in +leaving the ice. Captain Scott had descended easily enough in 1903, so +we kept along the southern edge, seeking a convenient place. The steep +lateral slope gave way to a perpendicular cliff over fifty feet high, +and we had to cross many ridges and small crevasses before we came to a +gully which led to a “silt” fall. Here, partly by slipping and partly by +being lowered by the wickstraps of my gloves, I managed to reach the +lateral moat, and Debenham followed safely. (Afterwards Debenham cut +steps up the less steep face nearer our camp.) + +Debenham finally climbed to an outcrop of black lava forming a wall +eighty feet high, and obviously representing quite a late phase of +volcanic activity. + +I carried lunch with me down the valley, and ate it under a huge granite +erratic abreast of the snout of the glacier. The slopes of the hills +contracted here, and practically enclosed the glacier save for a deep +narrow gorge just under the 500-foot groin mentioned above. The slopes +were strewn with fragments of grey granite, of fawn granite, and of a +felsite containing hornblende laths and “zoned” felspars. Many of the +basalt fragments seemed to show the effects of wind action, and +exhibited the wedge form of “dreikanter.” The latter are elsewhere +characteristic of desert regions, where also wind action is more +pronounced than water erosion. Many of the large granite erratics +contained felspars three inches long, and every gradation between +granite, gneiss, and felsite seemed to be present. + +Many interesting features were shown by the glacier snout immediately +below me. Between the groin—which I named the Bonney Riegel—and the +glacier, extended an oval lake about a mile long, and half that in +breadth. This connected with a much larger lake to the east by a deep +waterway through the Bonney Riegel. The whole lake—some four miles +long—I named Lake Bonney, after the President of the British +Association, himself a climber and student of the Alps. Between the lake +and the actual face of the glacier was an area of distributed silts, +which extended under the glacier; while the latter also contained bands +of silt, which were boldly curved in the form of an arch with the centre +thirty feet above the limbs. Here the glacier can be exerting no erosive +action on its bed, and I believe that for a long period thaw and freeze, +wind and water, have been the chief agents in eroding the Taylor Valley +hereabouts. + +[Illustration: + + Moraine material at the Taylor Glacier, looking west. +] + +Leaving the glacier and the upper lake, I proceeded east to the Riegel. +As I climbed up the slope of the hill, I was delighted to find that it +was composed of granite _in situ_. This bar across a great glacial gorge +was paralleled by many in the Swiss Alps, and any light which can be +thrown on their occurrence in the path of an apparently irresistible +power like an immense glacier, will be of interest. + +In my opinion this bar (or riegel), and the more important one we +discovered some ten miles east, are relics of “steps” in the original +topography. A series of “armchair valleys” (or cwms) were first cut out +in the sloping margins of the newly snow-covered land area. The plateau +ice in the interior gradually grew in extent, and finally overflowed and +drained out through the largest cwm valleys to the sea. By degrees it +eroded many of the cwm features, but it left relics of their presence in +the form of these “bars” and basins. This is what I call the +“palimpsest” theory, and I shall explain it more fully when I describe +the elongated valleys of the Koettlitz ice tributaries. + +I slid down the steep eastern face of the Riegel, where King Frost had +gnawed away the cliff and built up a steep ramp of talus, and reached +the channel connecting the two parts of Lake Bonney. This was twenty +feet deep and filled with water, of which only the top six inches was +frozen. Large laminae of dull green algæ covered the bottom of the lake, +and just at the snout of the glacier a bright red alga lent an unusual +touch of colour. + +Perched high up on the shoulder of the valley and close to the Rhone +glacier, Debenham made out a small black crater, and I got a fairly good +telephotograph of it from our camp. It is probable that the basalt +debris I found near the lake had fallen from this crater, which was +several hundred feet wide. Its position on this glaciated shoulder is +very interesting, and seems to prove that eruptive action occurred here +since the period of maximum glaciation. I managed to cut steps up the +front of the glacier and so enter one of the many surface gullies. I had +a very unpleasant time getting back to Alcove Camp, a distance of nearly +two miles. I thought perhaps the northern side of the glacier, which was +flatter, would be easier to negotiate. But the sun had weathered it into +a series of small alcoves, whose floors were as smooth as glass and +sloped towards the edge of the glacier, here fifty feet high. + +[Illustration: + + The recent crater on the flank of the Taylor Valley. The Rhone (cliff) + glacier appears on the left, February 7, 1911. +] + +The alcoves were bounded by razor-like ridges, and I had to crawl along +from one to the other, where I did not cut steps. The others had +returned to camp earlier, and Evans proudly produced a fossil-bearing +specimen which he called a “whisker-stone.” It certainly showed signs of +organic life, but they were merely fibrous algæ of a type fairly common +in the south, so he did not get the reward for the first fossils. That +evening Evans kindly sewed “toggles” on my sleeping-bag, so that I could +lash it up after I had coiled in. We cut trenches in the ice to lead the +thaw waters away from the tent, and turned in to sleep soundly, though +the wind was howling above us along the face of the glacier. But twenty +feet below, snugly sheltered in the alcove, nothing disturbed us. + +Next morning before rising Wright remarked on the severity of his +exercise the day before, which had left him so bathed in perspiration +that he felt clammy all night. On examining his sleeping-place, however, +he found that something had blocked the stream by the tent, and its icy +current had been flowing under his bag most of the night. With the +temperature ten below freezing this hydropathic treatment was by no +means appreciated by him! + +_February 4, 1911._—As we could not take the sledge beyond the glacier, +we packed up the tent and sleeping-bags with five days’ food and our +instruments, and carried them down towards the sea. Wright carried his +pack in the Canadian method by a “tump-line” round his forehead. He took +the theodolite. Evans wrapped his goods and the tent round the tent +poles and carried them like a standard over his shoulder. Debenham and I +took the food. I found as usual that the Italian method of carrying a +harp—a strap over the right shoulder—suited my convenience best. +Debenham copied the Australian swagsman with a smaller bundle in front +nearly balancing a roll on his back. We took no cooker, and I left my +camera below the Riegel after taking some photographs of the latter. + +We walked along the northern edge of the lake over a belt of smooth ice +about twenty yards wide. The water here was very deep, especially where +steep cliffs fringed the lake. Towards the centre the ice soon became +much broken, and then a large portion of the centre of the lake was +occupied by silt and morainic debris. In fact, the deep water was +probably controlled by the radiation from the dark rocks along the +shore. The valley was by no means steep-sided as a whole, but there was +evidently a well-defined shoulder terrace about 2000 feet above the lake +bed on the north and a less marked one on the south. Above them the +slope was steeper. + +Running into the lake at the east end were several small creeks. One I +noticed particularly had cut a fine gully in the moraine of the typical +=ᐯ= shape. This was twenty feet deep, and its debris was deposited as an +alluvial fan or delta. I mention this as an instance of typical water +erosion in Antarctica, though later we saw much larger examples. + +We had lunch at the east end of Lake Bonney, which extends four miles +east from the snout of the Taylor Glacier. Here the wide valley was +filled with morainic debris, and several tributary glaciers were close +at hand. A large hanging glacier almost reaches the level of the lake. +It is fed by three separate firn-fields, the ice being precipitated over +a steep craggy cliff, and then reuniting into a broad glacier below. +This I called the Sollas Glacier. Another similar glacier on the +northern side almost reached the middle of the valley, and we passed +just under its snout. The water from all these glaciers drained into +Lake Bonney. I was much surprised to find that after we had passed the +lake, the bed of the valley began to rise. This lake evidently occupies +an area of internal drainage, and we pressed eastward wondering if we +should be stopped by a range of hills. Evans had mentioned seeing in the +distance (in 1903) a glacier which completely blocked the valley, so our +supposition was not beyond possibility. + +Immediately east of Lake Bonney the bed of the valley was occupied by +curious areas which Evans’ name of “Football Fields” described quite +well. These were four oval areas about 1000 yards long and half that +width, as level as a playing-ground and composed of a gravelly silt with +insignificant shallow streams winding through each. Separating the +“Fields” were ridges of moraine about fifty yards across. The “Fields” +gradually became higher in an easterly direction, each, however, +maintaining its own particular level. These isolated patches of dead +level in the midst of a wilderness of moraine heaps often a hundred feet +high need explanation. Level areas of silt under _any_ conditions denote +material deposited at base level. (This may be the _permanent_ base +level of all water erosion, _i.e._ the level of the sea, or a +_temporary_ level, as when a river enters a lake, the latter acting as a +base level until it is filled.) The “football fields” represent, +therefore, the last stages of a chain of lakes which occupied the bed of +the valley at this point. Probably Lake Bonney will gradually be silted +up in a similar manner, though here conditions are abnormal, for the +drainage is a thorough puzzle. The lake would seem to have no outlet, +and yet, as we have seen, it is quite shallow except a mere fringe near +the cliffs. In midsummer a great quantity of thaw water runs down from +the main glacier. Possibly evaporation and ablation may balance the +inflow. It seems improbable that the water soaks out through the moraine +in view of the frozen condition of the moraine a few feet down. + +From the football fields we passed under the snout of Lacroix Glacier. +This ended in a vertical cliff of ice some thirty feet high, which as +usual rested on debris and moraine material. + +This glacier was a beautiful example of an avalanche-fed cliff glacier. +There was very little connection between the upper firm portion and the +lower solid snout of the glacier, the supply being maintained by +occasional falls of ice over the great granite cliffs separating the two +portions. + +[Illustration: + + The avalanche-fed Lacroix Glacier in the Taylor Valley, February 7, + 1911. +] + +Below the snout there was a steep fall through boulders and fragments of +granite to the centre of the valley, and along this slope hurried a +pleasant little brook three feet across and some three inches deep. It +filled the air with as cheerful murmurs as any stream in more favoured +latitudes. Lying among the moraines within the next few miles I counted +no less than thirteen dead seals in various stages of decay. This fact +was of some comfort to us, for we seemed to be ascending continuously, +and could see no seaward outlet to the valley. Yet the seals had come +through somewhere, and where they could pass, so surely could we! + +About three miles beyond Lake Bonney we reached the water parting. The +drainage from these high moraines was partly into Lake Bonney and partly +to the east. Beyond we could see the valley contracting to a defile +while striking knobs—recalling the Bonney Riegel—bounded the narrow +gorge and led to terraces about 1700 feet high. To the south, however, +an extension of these, 3000 feet high, quite barred the large valley we +had just traversed. + +It was now nearly six o’clock and my shoulder was aching with my pack. +Judging from the readiness of the others to drop their loads, I +concluded that they felt the same. But we all had an idea that a few +minutes later would give us a view of the Ross Sea. We wondered if we +could pass around the snout of the wonderful tributary immediately in +front. It opposed a face of ice forty feet high; but just where it +butted into the steep south slope of the defile, there was a narrow gap +where thaw-ice had filled in the interspaces between the cliff debris. +Over this we carried our packs; over this the seals must have +laboriously crawled to die further inland. One seal reached no less than +twenty miles from the sea, and ascended many hundred feet on its death +journey. Another, near Solitary Rocks some ten miles further west, at a +height of 2000 feet, may have ascended the Ferrar Glacier—an incredible +journey for a marine animal like the seal. + +[Illustration: + + Sketch section across the Taylor Valley at Suess Glacier, showing the + Nussbaum Riegel which bars it. +] + +We scrambled up the slippery ice mantle below the snout of the Suess +Glacier—as we named this striking glacier—and reached the highest +portion of the valley since we had left the Taylor Glacier. The rock +slopes looked full of interest. Here were vertical strata of limestone +and slate, which were the first sedimentary rocks that we had examined +_in situ_. Unfortunately they were so folded and altered that no trace +of fossils could be expected. + +We could not see the sea from the crest of the defile, where we were +about 300 feet up, and so moved east down the other slope. We reached +another lake nearly a mile long with a splendid gravelly shore, on which +I decided to pitch the tent. We had brought no floorcloth; but after the +wet and icy floor in the “alcove” we found the warm gravel most +comfortable. + +We had a frugal meal of biscuit, butter, and cold water. Our beverage +from the lake was distinctly medicinal, and as the latter had no outlet +we called it Lake Chad. + +[Illustration: Looking West up the Dry Valley below Taylor Glacier, from +the 3000′ Bar across the Valley] + +I was distinctly troubled over the topography of the day’s march. We had +left a huge open valley—a suitable outlet for a large flow of ice like +the Taylor Glacier—and had arrived at a narrow defile completely blocked +by the tributary Suess Glacier. We reckoned we must be near the sea; but +where was the large open moraine-strewn valley described by Professor +David in 1908? I wondered if we had got into an unimportant tributary +and missed the main outlet of the valley altogether! So after dinner +Evans and I made straight for the top of the ridge (immediately south of +the tent) which seemed to block the great valley. It was a stiff ascent +of 1600 feet over rough blocks of slate. There we reached a flat, bare +ridge with a further ascent to 3000 feet a little further west. To my +surprise I saw that immediately to the south was a broad high-level +valley gradually sloping to the east. I thought at first I was looking +into the Ferrar Glacier, but soon saw that here in Antarctica was an +example of the extraordinary valleys which are so characteristic of the +Italian Alps. As shown by the cross section, the dry valley is barred by +a huge Riegel, which is traversed by a deep defile at the north, and +scooped out to some extent into a huge elevated, rounded channel on the +south. From this ridge, above the mile long defile, Evans and I at last +saw the sea gleaming in the east across some twelve miles of +moraine-strewn valley. + +On the 5th, Wright and Debenham remained near the camp, while Evans and +I marched down to the sea to tie the survey on to Ross Island—if we +could recognize any portion of that far distant feature. We each carried +much gear, and the annexed rough sketch shows how a geologist is loaded +when “on trek.” + +It was extraordinary to find two more very large tributary glaciers on +the south side of the valley—reaching some way into the ice-free main +valley, and blocking up the main drainage to form a series of lakes. We +named the first the Canada Glacier, and Wright later on clustered the +names of various Canadian men of science on the adjoining peaks. The +second we called the Commonwealth Glacier; and to the small glacier +which we ultimately reached, on the north-east end of the Kukri Range, I +gave the name of Wales Glacier, so that our party’s homelands are well +represented in Dry Valley! We had to climb 400 feet up the slopes here +before we could see anything definite to the east; but then I was able +to sight the theodolite on to Mount Bird, Cape Bird, and Beaufort +Island. It was a long and rough tramp back—across numerous little +streams, running as usual to the north-east,—but we reached camp again +at 9 p.m. and turned in thankfully. + +After a somewhat _dry_ breakfast, Wright and I took the theodolite up +to the top of the Riegel. We climbed some 2400 feet, but did not reach +the top of Mount Nussbaum—the central summit,—which I estimated at +3000 feet high. When we reached the scarp facing up the valley to the +west the wind was tempestuous, so that we could not stand against it, +much less use the theodolite. We sheltered under the lee of some +projecting dykes of dark rock for some little time. There came a lull, +and almost before we got the theodolite ready the gale had veered to +the east—diametrically opposite—and continued to blow almost as +fiercely from that quarter. This violent storm would have been +unsupportable on the Barrier, but the party in our camp below +practically felt none of it. Our apparent fine weather was due less to +absence of wind than to the absence of loose snow, and to the +abundance of shelter. + +[Illustration: The Compleat Explorer. 8·2·11] + +I tramped to the south and found that the “Round Valley” ended in a 1700 +foot scarp above the trough containing Lake Bonney. There was little +wonder that we had not realized on our seaward tramp, _viâ_ the defile, +that such a high-level valley existed. + +[Illustration: + + “Anorthoclase” felspar, thrown out of Erebus, 2 inches long. The + characteristic mineral in kenyte. +] + +This elevated ridge was comparatively free from debris, but there were +huge erratics of granite with large felspar crystals three inches +across. They were wonderfully scooped out by the wind, and were nearly +twenty feet across in some cases. We also found small kenyte erratics +containing large felspar crystals. These may have been carried across +from Mount Erebus, or some unknown locality in the south. + +After supper I took the prospecting dish (which was the last article +purchased in New Zealand) and washed for gold in the gravels alongside +the lake. There were numerous quartz “leads” in the slates and +metamorphic gneisses, and eruptive rocks and limestone were in the +vicinity. This is a juxtaposition which is always promising, and +furnishes the “country rock” of most gold fields. But the quartz was too +glistening and pure. It had not the “kindly” rusty appearance which the +gold-seeker admires, and so I was not very sanguine. However, water was +abundant in Lake Chad and I washed out many pans of dirt. The “tails” of +heavy sand were not promising, even pyrites and magnetite being almost +absent. We knew there would be no water available on the remainder of +our journey, so I depôted the “pan” on a boulder by Lake Chad, where +some future archæologist will discover striking evidence for the lost +kingdom of Sheba! + +Next day we started back to Alcove Camp, buoyed by the thought of hot +pemmican after nearly a week’s cold “tucker.” We lunched just at the +east end of Lake Bonney on our old site below the peak of the +Matterhorn. The latter is the most striking mountain in the region. The +conical summit (formed of black dolerite columns) perched on a broader +granite base, certainly gives it a resemblance to its forerunner in the +Alps. We estimated it to be 9000 feet high. Luckily we took careful +angles which we worked out later in the hut. To our chagrin all +observations resulted in a poor 5000! Such is the effect of lack of +trees or any standard of comparison in Antarctic scenery. Continuing +west we found that the penguins seemed to have the same queer habits as +the seals, for we found a skeleton some fourteen miles from the sea. + +We reached Alcove Camp about 5 p.m. and saw that our camp site was +ruined by thaw water. We hunted around for a new floor, and the only +available one seemed to be a pile of moraine rubble just like a heap of +road metal! This we levelled off, and when the ice had melted away in +the sun, we pitched our tent upon this stony bed. Then we had a hot +meal, much appreciated after our days of cold food. + +We were up at 7.20, Greenwich time (really 6.20, local) and shifted our +gear from the heap of road metal to the surface of the glacier. We had a +good breakfast, though I noted that twelve lumps of sugar did not seem +to sweeten the cocoa. It was difficult to move the sledge, for the dark +straps had sunk two inches deep in the hard ice and there frozen in +again. We managed to get everything ready by 10 a.m., and moved up the +glacier. It was very sunny, and Evans wore a huge “Madeira” straw hat, +quite a yard across—a queer but useful article that his previous +experience had led him to add to his kit. + +We had lunch about six miles up the glacier in the medial moraine. I +took careful notes of the latter, which differed conspicuously from +those of temperate glaciers. It consisted of huge blocks of granite with +smaller pieces of dolerite and sandstone. They were often 100 feet +apart, so that this moraine compared with Swiss examples was a very +“tenuous thread.” Comparatively little material can be supplied to these +slow moving or stagnant glaciers, and all the small stones have +undoubtedly sunk into the ice long ago. + +The upper portion of the Kukri Hills hereabouts showed by the fragments +of the Beacon Sandstone torn off by the intrusive eruptive rock dolerite +that the latter was newer. The relative ages of the other rocks could be +deduced in the same way. For instance, the dolerite sent “dykes” into +the granite, so that the latter was older. These points are well shown +in the section I sketched. + +Near the Solitary Rocks the glacier was moulded into a gigantic furrow +or longitudinal undulation. We followed this up toward the ice-falls +from the upper glacier and camped for the night on a small patch of snow +in the lee of some large boulders of the medial moraine. These boulders +had lee-ridges of snow, which, we were interested to see, were generally +turned into solid ice and formed part of the glacier itself. This shows +that nothing but a maturing process (resembling that of wine!) is +necessary to convert snow into glacier ice. + +[Illustration: + + The age of rocks. The granite (Gr.) is the oldest; it is penetrated by + flat sheets of dolerite (D) at the junction with the main mass of + the latter. The beacon sandstone (B.S.) has also been torn up and + surrounded by the dolorite (below A and B), and has probably been + lifted up by the lava (to B.S.). The talus (Ta) of loose rock is the + latest deposit. From a sketch of the new end of the Kukri Hills made + February 1, 1911. +] + +Wright and I went over to the Kukri Hills while the others pitched camp. +I wished to measure the “lateral moat.” Near the edge of the glacier +there was a thick coating of snow. At the actual edge there was a sharp +curve downward, and carefully peering over we could see that there was a +frozen stream at the bottom of the gully, over 150 feet below us. I +determined to measure the slope and angle accurately, and for this we +had brought the alpine rope and ice-axes. Wright lowered me over the +edge, which I found was a snow cornice projecting over six feet. Under +the cornice was a well-defined platform a few feet wide—which, however, +narrowed on either side—and then came a long slope to the bottom. Wright +paid out the rope, and I let myself down to its end. There I started to +cut steps, but unfortunately slipped and fell the last thirty +feet—luckily without damage except to my knuckles. I can remember +thinking that an ice-axe was an uncomfortable companion in this roll +down the slope and so threw it away for fear lest it should claim close +acquaintance with my person. The stream was over a hundred feet wide, +and then I reached the foot of a steep rocky slope formed of dolerite +blocks fallen from a bold crag a few hundred feet up. + +I climbed up the glacier side again, and then found that the large +snow-shawls of the cornice prevented my getting back—for as Wright +hoisted me the rope merely cut deep into the snow and soon my head was +pulled into the lower parts of the huge cornice! I crawled along under +the cornice, devoutly trusting it would not avalanche on me, but +ultimately had to retrace my steps down to the stream. Again I slipped, +and this time lost the skin off my other hand as I rolled once more into +the moat. Luckily some few hundred yards north I saw a place where the +cornice had fallen off, and here I was pulled up by Wright with such +vigour that the ice-axe entered my leg! + +The huge cross-section of these “moats” is worthy of note. They +definitely prove that no _lateral_ erosion of any importance is +occurring in this portion of Antarctica. After returning to the tent the +glacier treated us to rounds of volley-firing! These were due to the +opening of contraction cracks as the ice shrank in the colder night +temperatures. + +Wright and Evans spent the morning of the 9th over near the ice falls +from the upper glacier. These we named after the famous Cavendish +laboratory in Cambridge. They had to cross a surface compounded of +“plough-shares” and “thumbmarks,” which they found intensely slippery, +so that even surefooted Evans fell and nearly broke his elbow. + +Debenham and I cracked sandstone boulders, but found nought of interest +save worm burrows in some shaly bands. However, these indicate damp +conditions for some portions of the Beacon Sandstone, and so show that +the latter is not perhaps of desert origin. + +The most extraordinary feature in this small ice plateau near Knob Head +Mountain is that the moraines here lead down into Taylor Glacier. Hence +they cut right across the upper portion of glacier above Cavendish +Falls, and show that the ice west of the latter is almost wholly flowing +into the Dry Valley region and not into the lower Ferrar, as was +supposed. This looks as if the “South Arm” and the glacier from the +north side of Mount Lister formed the main supply of the Lower Ferrar, +while the northern portion (_née_ Upper Ferrar and Dry Valley) is a +distinct glacier now temporarily united with it after the fashion of the +Siamese twins. This type of union is by no means unknown, and indeed +explains the structure of Lake Luzern—that beautiful high-cragged chain +of lake basins in central Switzerland. Here also two independent +glaciers (the Reuss and the Aar) cut out deep parallel gorges as they +moved to the north. + +[Illustration: + + Plan of the bygone _twin_ glaciers of Lake Luzern, whose overflow led + to the break through the high range near Vitznau. A close parallel + with the conditions near Knob Head between the Ferrar and Taylor + Glaciers. +] + +They spread out laterally, and ultimately the Reuss Glacier overflowed +to the west, and cut through the high ridge forming the picturesque +cliffs of the Rigi and opposite shores. + +As I have explained elsewhere (p. 280), when, after our return, I +described this interesting parallel between Lake Luzern and the +“opposed” glaciers at Knob Head, Captain Scott was good enough to honour +me by naming the northern “twin” the Taylor Glacier. + +That evening we camped near the ice divide between the glaciers. We had +intended to ascend the South Arm, but after making our way in that +direction for some time, we saw that a snowstorm was brewing, and so +turned towards the Kukri Hills. + +They seemed to me less than a mile distant, but knowing the difficulty +of judging distances, I suggested we should camp under the slopes, +“about a mile and a half on.” Wright, with his Canadian experience, +thought this would be well over two miles, and I remember the distance +turned out to be three miles! Thereafter I calculated apparent distances +with great care, and when convinced I had allowed for everything I would +use a “factor of safety” of 3—and come out about right! + +Debenham finished cooking, and being already an adept, had very properly +saved some “thickers” for his final “flutter” at breakfast. So Wright +started with the evening meal. He imparted a scientific and physical +aspect to the operation by suggesting a “drop test” to estimate the +viscosity of the pemmican; an observation of its meniscus (or curved +surface) to see its sticking power; notes on colour and taste; and—added +one of his hungry audience—“I suggest 50 per cent. be subtracted from +the cook’s allowance on account of grits!” + +Perhaps as a result I had a dream in which my astral self did some +logical reasoning! It is a fact that the fossils called trilobites +gradually become more supple and less clumsily built as one traces them +through newer formations. It occurred to me in the dream that this also +held true for man and his monkey ancestors, and that the stiff, clumsy +orang-outang, etc., developed into the limber human acrobat. Not a very +epoch-making correlation, but the best my _astral_ self has accomplished +to date! + +On the evening of the 10th we reached our depôt at Cathedral Rocks. We +could see our flag from five miles off with the glasses. On arrival we +found the food uncovered, so that the sun had melted the pemmican and +butter. The skua gulls had found the carcase of the Emperor, and our +chance of a variation of the menu had departed with the skuas. + +That evening we discussed literature. Seaman Evans had read many popular +works, and was far superior in this respect to any of the other seamen +with whom I had much to do. He had read some of Kipling’s poems, and +“had no use for them,” nor did Dickens appeal to him. As was perhaps +natural, he preferred books with more “plot” in them; especially did he +delight in the works of the French writer whose name he anglicized as +Dum—ass! + +Our sledging library was quite extensive, for each of us had devoted a +pound of our personal allowance to books. I will give the catalogue, if +only as a caution to later explorers. Debenham took my Browning and the +“Autocrat”; Evans had a William le Queux and the _Red Magazine_; Wright +had two mathematical books, both in German; I took Debenham’s Tennyson +and three small German books. The _Red Magazine_, the “Autocrat,” and +Browning were most often read; Evans’ contribution being an easy winner. +Somehow we didn’t hanker after German. + +On the 11th Wright and Debenham carried out a very important operation +to determine the movement of the Ferrar Glacier. They fixed stakes right +across the glacier which were aligned on two prominent peaks. Some six +months later Captain Scott re-measured this line, and found that very +considerable movement, amounting to thirty feet, had taken place during +the winter. + +Meanwhile P.O. Evans and I prospected for a route up the steep snow +slope of Descent Pass. Evans had been with Armitage when he used this +route in 1903. We found the conditions very different. Soon we were +sinking nearly two feet at every step in soft snow, through which I knew +it would be almost impossible to drag the sledges. The slope soon +increased to 11°, so that we found some difficulty in progressing even +unencumbered. There I first made the acquaintance of the “Barrier +Shudder.” Every now and then a shiver would shake the surface, and we +could hear the eerie wave of sound expanding like a ripple all around. +Sometimes one could see the whole snow surface sinking slightly, and at +first the effect was very unpleasant. + +We had been roped for two miles and were still ascending. We now began +to get among crevasses, though few were visible through the thick sheet +of snow. Quite suddenly I slipped in to the thigh, and sounding with the +ice-axe just in front found two inches of snow over the crevasse and +very little more behind me. I was evidently standing in a narrow bridge. +At the same time Evans called out that he was over another about fifteen +feet behind, so that for a few moments things were rather involved. He +got back on to firmer ground and hauled me back, and when we saw the +surface begin to cave in bodily we decided, in Evans’ graphic language, +to “give it a miss.” + +We seemed to be in the least impossible part of the pass, and I could +see plenty worse ahead. So I decided to abandon this route and continue +down the Ferrar to Butter Point, and so reach the Koettlitz Glacier +_viâ_ the Piedmont Glacier. + +During our absence Wright had also slipped into a crevasse while fixing +the stake nearest Cathedral Rocks. We inspanned after lunch, and moved +down the glacier to our old camp at the mouth of the Ferrar. + +The morning of February 13 was bright and clear. We could see no change +in the sea-ice filling New Harbour where we had crossed it a fortnight +before. I therefore headed south-east towards Butter Point. Here we had +an experience that might have ended our journey prematurely. + +We got along at a good rate for two miles, when Evans drew my attention +to something black sticking up in the ice just ahead. + +We had noticed an unusual creaking sound, which I put down to ice +crystals falling, but this strange object demanded investigation. I ran +forward a little, and the black spike was obviously the back fin of a +killer whale. The creaking was really a warning that the bay ice was on +the move. Meanwhile the ice I was on moved off with a jolt, a mark of +attention from the killer which we did not appreciate. However, I jumped +the three-foot crack which resulted, and we hastened to the fixed ice +nearly two miles south. It was a case of “_festina lente_.” We could not +drag the heavy sledges more than two miles an hour, and were continually +crossing cracks where the oozy snow and creaking showed how insecure was +our passage. Soon after we reached the Butter Point piedmont the whole +bay ice moved off in great floes to the northward, so that seven miles +of it had broken away since the ship landed us. It is quite impossible +to tell whether sea-ice is solid or not, for the first cracks are so +small and the elevation of the eye so little that the only safe way to +traverse sea-ice in late summer is to keep off it! + +We expected to find the Butter Point piedmont an easy level surface, but +of its kind it was the worst I met with down south. All the afternoon we +were plugging up an interminable snow slope. Just as one got one’s foot +braced to draw the sledges through the clinging snow, it would break +through a crust and sink nearly to the knee. Then we would meet a few +yards of firmer surface and bet whether we could make a dozen steps +before the soft “mullock” started again. Even worse was the jar when you +expected deep snow and found a firm crust one inch below the surface. I +carried a pedometer, and when we had done 27,500 of these paces I felt +we had earned our supper. + +Blue Glacier now confronted us. P.O. Evans and I prospected across the +snout, and were glad to find that though it showed crevasses in places, +yet it was so free from snow that we should have no great difficulty in +crossing them. They curved round parallel to the coast, and, of course, +lay along the line of our march, so that we came on to them end-on and +fell in several times. But by the evening of the 15th we were safely +camped in the rugged ice south of the crevassed portion. Evans as usual +enlivened us with navy yarns. He illustrated the kindness of the +sailorman by a story of a mate of his who started a poultry-farm. To +Jack’s disgust the ducks in his yard had no belief in altruism and with +their broad bills gave the hens no chance. “So,” said Taff Evans, +“evenchooly he gets a file and trims their bills like the hens, and then +everything went all sprowsy!” + +If any one had asked us what we should like sent post haste from +civilization, there would have been a unanimous yell of “Boots!” The +rough scrambling over the rocks and jagged ice of the past fortnight, +and the alternate soaking and freezing they had experienced, had ruined +mine completely. Deep constrictions formed in the leather across the toe +and behind the ankle and raised great blisters, and even boils in +Debenham’s case. I had no sole on the right foot, but within the next +day or so the temperature fell considerably and the thin leather lining +froze as hard as steel and so protected my foot. For days a loose +boot-nail which had accidentally been pressed sideways into the sole +when it was wet clung like a leech! + +[Illustration: The Morphology of frozen Ski-boots. 15 2 11] + +Each morning we had a painful ceremony when it was necessary to don our +frozen boots. Remarks more fervid than polite flew about the tent, and +some of us found that quotations from the poet philosopher lubricated +the process. + + “... Gritstone,—gritstone a-crumble: + Clammy squares that sweat, as if the corpse they keep + Were oozing through” + +was supposed to be a very potent incantation. We carried no blacking, +but this ceremony was called “Browning the Boots.” + +Open water washed the face of the Blue Glacier. Black snaky +heads—reminding me of prehistoric plesiosaurs—could be seen darting +about amid the brash ice. They were Emperor penguins, which swim with +their bodies submerged. + +To the south of us stretched the sea-ice, which was evidently rotten and +ready to move north. Beyond the Blue Glacier on the right stretched a +broad fringe of moraine which extended fairly continuously along the +north side of the Koettlitz Glacier. Immediately ahead of us was a +fifty-foot ice cliff, but some distance to the south we found a lower +place and managed with the Alpine rope to lower the sledges down to the +sea-ice. We crossed the “pressure ice”— where great cakes had been +up-ended to form a frozen rampart—and reached a good sledging surface at +last. Near by was a great pool of water containing many seals, where +jostling ice pancakes were surging about, so there was obviously no time +to lose. We pushed gaily south and camped that night in a little +gravelly dell among the moraines. + +This crater-like dell was occupied by a frozen lakelet of greenish ice, +the colour being due to algæ. On the slope above the lake was a blanket +of alga forming a sort of peaty layer an inch thick. + +The latter was apparently _in situ_, for it extended uniformly for about +ten feet. This occurrence of peat points to an elevated old lake bottom, +and we saw similar examples later on our journey. Even in Antarctica at +present we see that considerable organic material is deposited, which +might form a thin coaly layer in succeeding ages under suitable +conditions. Indeed, the kerosene shale deposits of Australia are +supposed to originate in some lowly plant-form like these algæ. + +_February 17, 1911._—We had a calm, clear night, and all slept very well +on the soft sand of the moraine crater. Just to northward was a little +bay filled with pancake ice having two-feet motion. We made south across +little bays over a very good surface, which was intersected by +cross-channels of clear ice. Seals were very numerous along this coast. +We counted one group of thirty. We could now see the first of the Ice +Slabs (described in 1902), which seemed in its lower portion to run +parallel to the coast. + +Wright espied some white material in the moraines, and we walked across +to see this. It turned out to be a huge deposit of Mirabilite (sodium +sulphate), about ten feet across and fifty feet long. It was granular in +texture, and the dip of the bed was quite high. The Mirabilite was +originally a level deposit in a saline lake, so that, just as in the +case of the algæ, we have evidence of strong upheaval of the moraine +silts, since they experienced a long-continued phase of equilibrium. The +granular mass was not unlike rock-salt in appearance. + +We proceeded south and crossed the mouth of the large bay marked on the +Discovery map. We halted off the southern headland for lunch. + +I had a small adventure which might have been serious. On +outspanning—which consisted in freeing one’s harness from the sledge—I +walked over to look at a seal which had crawled about a hundred feet +from the tide crack. He shook his head angrily at me, so that I made a +loop on my harness—still attached to my belt—and lassoed him with +unexpected ease. The seal bolted for the tide crack—and for a short +distance they can “lollop along” fairly rapidly. It was amusing, at +first, being pulled by an angry seal; but it suddenly struck me, “What +will happen when the brute dives into the pool?” I could not get the +loop off his neck, and had as much chance of stopping him as a railway +train. I experienced some anxious moments before I managed to get ahead +of him and jerk off the lasso, for it was impossible to slip out of the +broad waistbelt in time. This adventure furnished considerable amusement +to my unfeeling comrades, and became the subject of one of Wilson’s +sketches in the _South Polar Times_. + +After lunch we took a round of sights from this low headland. It was +composed of moraine heaps with numerous circular sheets of water, which +reminded one most strongly of crater lakes. On descending from the cape, +Debenham found that the steep little cliff near the tide crack was +formed of ice covered with a mere veneer of moraine silt. Probably a +large portion of the promontory was ice, and we saw other examples of +this pseudo-moraine further up the Koettlitz. As Debenham suggested, the +crater lakes were due, in all probability, to the melting of the +foundation ice. Probably the sun’s rays acting on the silt in a shallow +pool have a powerful effect in deepening the lake when it is once +initiated. The drainage of such a lake presents some difficulties, for +though there was usually an apparent outlet, many were quite enclosed by +a circular wall of debris. Steps of silt, appearing as small terraces, +were common among the heaps. These probably represent crevasses in the +underlying ice, and we actually saw several such crevasses in the ice +exposure noted above. Perhaps these crevasses account for the (hidden) +drainage, for ablation could not empty many of the lakes. The whole +question of the origin of these unusual lakes is of great physiographic +interest. + +We could see fairly rough ice ahead, but hoped to be able to get the two +sledges several miles further before depôting one during our work on the +Koettlitz. + +We proceeded somewhat to the east over blue ice. This soon became +rippled and degenerated rapidly into a fearful “glass-house” and +“bottle-glass” surface. We started to fall through the ice into hidden +channels, and in some cases there was a foot of fresh water awaiting us. +Things got worse and worse. We wriggled round ice “mesas” with vertical +walls, over huge curved platforms which threw us all together in the +centre and then dropped beneath us. We thought it might be better nearer +the land, but at last had to lower the sledge down two feet to the lower +level, which was silt covered and all the harder to sledge on for that +reason. The “mesas” showed three layers. A flat cake of solid ice on +top, then a few inches of very much weathered ice, and below a solid +pedestal about three feet high. We hoisted the bamboo and flag and +spread out to prospect. The ice became worse towards the coast, but +Wright reported somewhat better going towards the centre of the gulf. +However, it was obviously unwise to drag our unnecessary sledge further, +so we turned in our tracks and crossing many “glass-houses” (into most +of which we fell, though with little damage) we made for the headland +where we had lunched. + +It began to snow and looked very threatening around Mount Discovery. +There was an ugly luminous patch in the sky to the south-west, and a +heavy snow cloud with a very ragged edge. On Erebus alone was a red-gold +ray of sunshine. From these portents Evans prophesied a blizzard. We +reached land without undue difficulty and crossed the pressure ice, +pitching our tent in a dell not unlike our last camp, though it was +flatter and more exposed to the east. We carried the smaller sledge well +inland, but left the large sledge below on the sea-ice, for we should +have had to manœuvre it round an open channel, and we did not need it +for laying our depôt here. This channel along the coast was about twenty +feet across with a five-knot current in it, which was flowing strongly +north. Seals swam up it quite frequently, and often used to halt and +observe the strange visitors alongside. While the pemmican was cooking I +went on to the ice and killed a seal and extracted his liver. + +This camp marked the end of the third week. We celebrated it by eating a +pound of mixed chocolates. Wily Evans led us to believe that _he_ was +the donor; but as a matter of fact, each sledge had a box of them packed +in for birthdays and feastdays. + +The snow stopped about 8 p.m., but later in the night a strong wind from +the south-east blew much sand on to the tent. We had an argument as to +whether this was a blizzard or not, for there was no snow in the wind. +Personally I now think it tends to prove that the snow in the blizzards +is largely _old_ snow caught up again, for the force and direction of +the wind were just those of typical blizzards. We were protected from +the open barrier surface by Brown Island and the Koettlitz glacier, and +this region is one of small snowfall in any case. So we were not +inconvenienced by such blizzards as blew on this western coast. + +The food was lasting out well. The first tin of biscuits was finished, +and had lasted from the 3rd instant. (We had, however, an extra bag of +loose biscuits.) I started my week of cooking on the 18th, and as we +reached Hut Point in the seventh week I had only one turn at this duty. + +_February 18, 1911._—It seemed advisable to get a good view of the +Koettlitz from some high peak, so I decided to spend a few days in the +vicinity of this camp before marching up the big glacier. We had a “make +and mend” morning—sadly needed by our boots. I had saved some staples +from the venesta boxes (thrown away at Butter Point) and found they were +satisfactory in holding the soles together. Luckily the others’ boots +were very much better, though Debenham’s were much improved by some of +Evans’ sewing. We had a large fry of seal’s liver in butter, and +Debenham and myself decided that as raw blubber tasted passably, we +would fry liver in blubber for the next meal off seal meat. + +In the afternoon Wright and I crossed Davis Bay to the mouth of Hobbs +Glacier (about two miles to the north-west). The promontory on which we +were camped was about a quarter of a mile across, chiefly built of +basalt fragments rich in olivine. + +The shore of the bay below Hobbs Glacier was in the form of an +extraordinarily flat alluvial fan. This uniform level extended almost to +the glacier for three-quarters of a mile, though it narrowed greatly +away from the bay. It was mapped out in square “tesselations,” and at +the sides were striking terraces about five feet higher with strongly +marked, clean cut edges. The whole topography had a very recent +appearance; but the only explanation I can give for these levels points +to a period when Davis Bay was dammed by ice so as to raise the +waterline to the levels of the various terraces. A parallel case of +terraces in a waterless region is given in Utah, where the hills around +the great basin are fringed by similar deposits indicating a bygone +lake. + +Down the fan ran a creek from the glacier, which cut into the silts at +the shore to a depth of several feet. Evidently the base-line has been +lowered by this amount since the fan was deposited. From the hill above +the bay it could be seen that there were two fans, one of a lighter +coloured silt being derived from the next valley to the south. We could +also see that our camp was really on an island which corresponded to the +stranded moraines south of Butter Point. + +[Illustration: My footgear, 19·2·11] + +_February 19, 1911._—I cut out some sealskin from the carcase near-by to +make a pair of “brogans” to cover my boots, lashing them over the sole +with yarn, and over the sealskin I bound my iron crampons (steig-eisen) +on. Then we all started to explore the valley immediately west of Davis +Bay and south of the Hobbs Glacier. Leaving the sea-ice we reached a +lighter coloured “fan” by a sharp step of five feet. Emerging through +this broad gravel fan were “nunataks” of large stones which had +evidently been deposited before the fan. They rose twenty or thirty feet +above the fan, forming ridges leading towards the valley. We reached a +gully about 500 yards from the bay, which was entirely water-cut, and +was fifty feet deep. It had steep sides and its bed sloped considerably. +The latter was filled with large rounded boulders, one or two feet in +diameter, obviously waterworn. The account of the summer streams in +1903, given by Dr. Wilson, explains this striking example of ordinary +_water_ erosion, which I was unprepared to meet in icy Antarctica. + +The gully wound about through the morainic foothills, and widened +considerably about a mile higher. Here it was occupied by an ice-sheet +some 300 feet wide. In this sheet narrow little canyons four feet deep +had been cut by the water, and very generally these canyons were roofed +with ice. In other places the whole ice-shell had been undercut for +thirty or forty feet by the relatively warm water. + +Gradually the valley—which I named after Professor W. M. Davis—became +wider, and a tributary joined it from the north. (See folding map at the +end of the volume; and also p. 175, section No. II.) It drained the +lowest slopes of the foothills, which extended to the scarp of the +Western Mountains. These lowest slopes are largely covered by a gigantic +deposit of moraine matter. This deposit extends many miles along the +foothills, and can only be due to the great Koettlitz glacier. + +Four or five miles from the coast the steep hillsides formed of solid +rock rise somewhat abruptly from the moraine slopes to a fairly uniform +height of 3000 feet. + +The sides of the valley along which we were walking were marked by +lateral ridges in several tiers. These were about thirty feet high, and +in some cases certainly contained much ice. At one spot the silty +covering of the side of one of these lateral ridges was marked by +vertical stripes of darker silt, as if the whole ridge had moved +slightly and cracked along these lines. These ridges followed the +contour of the hill between the tributary and the main valley, and +reminded me of the parallel roads of Glenroy (though on a very small +scale, of course). They are, I think, like terraces or beach deposits +due to a bygone ice dam across the mouth of the main valley, such as one +sees in the Märjelen See above Fiesch in Switzerland. Later we saw +“pocket editions” on Cape Evans. + +Continuing up the valley we found it bounded between solid cliffs of +limestone, which were altered in places to a marble. We called these the +marble cliffs, and they culminated in a double peak of a fawn tint, +which we called Salmon Peak from its colour. I kept along the base of +these cliffs while the others walked up the thal-weg 200 feet lower. We +soon saw that the upper portion of this “dry” valley was occupied by a +glacier whose snout was forty feet high. + +Some light snow had fallen lately and occupied the furrows of the +“tesselations” which ornamented the floor of the valley. For some reason +(probably the direction of the wind and sun’s rays) only the north-south +furrows were now filled, and these white zigzag markings on the black +basalt-debris resembled so many white snakes! + +The Davis Glacier snout was about six miles from the sea. A range of +mountains 4000 feet high blocked the upper end of the =ᑌ=-shaped valley. +I was very anxious to see whether the glacier really came into the +valley from some hidden angle, for if not this glacier was of great +interest. Here was a glacier which could not be more than eight miles +long, which had cut out a valley 3000 feet deep and a mile or so broad. + +We separated here, Wright and the others taking the theodolite up a 3000 +feet hill to the south, while I went a couple of miles further into the +range to see the head of the glacier. + +[Illustration: + + Empty hanging valley, on north wall of the Davis Glacier, showing + catenary curve due to former glaciation, February 19, 1911. +] + +Everywhere were the signs of recent recession of the Davis Glacier. +First I had to cross the mouth of a side valley opening 600 feet above +the glacier. This was quite free from ice, and was a perfect +“bowl-valley” or cwm. On the opposite side was another “hanging valley” +at a lower elevation, with a most symmetrical =ᑌ=-cross section. It was +abruptly truncated by the plane surface (35°) of the marble cliffs under +Salmon Peak. I now climbed round the top of a cliff of ice which +descended smoothly for 1000 feet to the glacier at an angle of 30°. +After ascending over many outcrops of limestone schist, granite, and +basic dykes, I reached the head of the glacier and saw that it +originated in a cwm about three miles from its snout. Its snowfield was +very circumscribed, but reached the summit of the bounding ridge in +several places. The glacier up here was not crevassed, and the main +surface lay only two hundred feet below me. After making some rapid +sketches I returned to the snout of the glacier where the others had +already arrived. + +This Davis valley contains a typical example of the “ice-slabs” +mentioned by Ferrar. But I do not agree with his description of them. He +writes, “They are the relics of glaciers which once drained the snow +valley; but owing to diminution of ice-supply, this has now become an +inland basin, and its overflows have slipped away from it, leaving a +subsidiary watershed bare.” + +In the first place, the head of this glacier was a typical cwm, with +steeply sloping sides, and to all appearance a sharp crest to the ridge +at the back. It did not resemble the discontinuous lower portions of the +Lacroix and Sollas Glaciers in Dry Valley, which fully deserve the title +of ice-slabs. The latter lie supinely, one might say, on a gently +sloping hillside, in which they have cut no definite trough. The method +of erosion of these curious valleys became clearer to me as we saw other +examples in the next fortnight. + +_Monday, February 20._—We spent the morning making a depôt on the +Ice-Borne Moraines. We left the camera legs with a flag thereon, and +cemented them into the gravel by the simple method of pouring a cup of +water on to it! The seal’s liver we put under the food stacked in the +small sledge, and I left a note of our whereabouts in the instrument +box. We took eighteen days’ food with us. + +We crossed about one mile of good surface and then reached +“glass-houses,” “craters,” “pools,” etc., through which we struggled +till two o’clock. After lunch Wright and I prospected and found some +“plough-share” ice about a mile to the south-east. We made for this, +having to cut tracks along the bottom of the channels connecting +“glass-house” areas. Debenham and I pulled on short traces while the +others lifted the sledge over the constant succession of obstacles. The +sledge fell two feet into a hole and capsized, but the brunt of the +shock was absorbed by the empty oil tins. We were always falling, and +occasionally disappeared a foot below the glass-house surface. + +[Illustration: + + TRYING TIMES ON THE KOETTLITZ GLACIER, FEB. 2, 1911. + + The sledge has fallen through “glass-house” ice into a thaw water + channel. +] + +[Illustration: + + TABLES OR ICE “MESAS” IN THE LOWER KOETTLITZ CUT OUT BY THAW-WATER. + + [_See p. 157._ +] + +Later we halted in a slight snowstorm. We were cheered to hear Evans say +that it was the worst sledging surface he had ever seen, even though he +added that it was not fit for sledges. I wore my iron steig-eisen all +day, and so was able to hold my own somewhat; but the others preferred +to slip about, for the irons certainly made one’s feet very sore. + +For an hour we had fair going over “plough-share” and shallow +glass-houses, during which we changed direction somewhat to the south. A +thick snowstorm blotted all ahead, and we reached a region of +“basket-work” ice structures, which we called “fascines,” and all sorts +of ice tables. One shaped like an Armadillo standing on a pedestal was +especially noticeable, and after pulling the sledge over three +“roof-pillars” (the roof having long ago fallen in) we cried “enough,” +and camped in the shadow of the “Armadillo.” + +“It is fairly warm to-night, the others smoking peacefully. They have +almost given up trying to make me smoke. I had a difficulty in getting +Wright to eat some extra pemmican! ‘Sugar Vat,’ ‘Liver Chewer,’ and +‘Pemmican Tub,’ are common ekenames. And so to sleep.” + +[Illustration: How Evans won his bet. 20·2·11] + +During the next four days we struggled up the middle of the Koettlitz +Glacier. It was a strenuous time, but I recall a pleasant noon halt when +P.O. Evans earned an honest penny. We saw him playing with the rope +which lashed his sleeping-bag. Says Evans, “I’ll show you how to make a +clove-hitch with one hand, and I bet you a 1_s._ 3_d._ dinner (our usual +currency) you can’t do it after you’ve seen me do it six times!” +Debenham took the bet, and we all watched Evans closely. Then “Deb” +tried, and to our joy succeeded, for the handy-man was rarely “done.” +But he never turned a hair, and booked the bets that now filled the air. +Again Debenham proceeded to try, and failed—and Wright and I were +equally unsuccessful. Evans made quite a haul, but after saying he had +never seen any one do it by sheer luck before, he proceeded to teach us +the dodge; and later Debenham became quite a knot-master under his +willing tuition. + +“A fine sunny morning, the first for many days. Even this scene of +desolation looks cheerful.” Thus my sledge diary for the 21st. But the +route did not improve. I wrote: “We got going on awful stuff—rounded +pools of ice, between tables. It got worse and worse, and after many +bumps and leaps and falls I decided to prospect. We had done half a mile +in the hour.... We started again about 3 p.m. Awful heavy work over +‘glass-house’ and leaping three-foot chasms, between high fascines and +across decomposing rivers of ice.” + +About 4.30 we saw a ragged piece of skin projecting from under an +ice-table, and found that it was part of a large fish. We spent half an +hour chipping it out, and recovered the dorsal spines, skin, tail, and +the vertebræ. These were preserved in a yellow fatty substance smelling +like vaseline and quite soft. I made rather a ludicrous mistake here. I +carefully preserved a very hard irregular mass coated with this flesh, +thinking it was a bone, but later, after we had carried it for days on +the sledge, we found that this “pelvic bone,” as we called it—melted in +warm water! No head was found, and in this respect the fish—which was +possibly about four feet long—agrees with the four large headless fish +found by the _Discovery_ Expedition. We had a hot discussion in the hut +as to this problem of decapitation, but came to no definite conclusion, +for it seemed too far for seals to carry it. + +That night we slept at Park Lane Camp. We had been traversing a frozen +park, set out in circular beds with winding paths in every direction. +The “flower-beds” were represented by elevated masses of ice thirty feet +across, exactly like an apple pie with a raised crust—even to the four +cuts made by the housewife across the top! The last two days we had only +progressed seven miles, and for five of them we had carried the sledge +rather than dragged it. + +Next day, however, we found that to the south the glacier was nearly +continuous. It had not been dissected by thaw waters to nearly the same +extent, and by 4 p.m. we managed to advance ten miles to the south-west. +We camped on a platform of weathered ice, so rotten that it resembled a +layer of honeycomb. We found that this honeycomb ice was very common in +this part of the Koettlitz. + +We tried to find an easier way out of the numerous undulations which now +characterized the surface, but unsuccessfully, and so plugged on +south-west. We used to “pully-haul” up one side (_i.e._ hand over hand) +and then toboggan down the other. P.O. Evans was an expert steersman, +while we others used to keep the ropes clear. But we had some nasty +falls, especially Evans, who got a cut deep in his palm from a piece of +“bottle-glass” ice, in spite of his thick mits. + +At noon we came across a picturesque tunnel in the ice, about three feet +wide, seven feet high, and one hundred feet long. It had been cut out by +thaw waters which had now drained away. + +In and out wound the lanes, forming a regular network through all sorts +of picturesque pinnacles. Here was one like a yacht on stocks, there a +perfect wedding-cake twelve feet high, again a lady’s bonnet, and so on, +in infinite variety. + +The long promontories of “bastions” along which we skirted are probably +dissected undulations of the original glacier surface, fifty to a +hundred feet high. They are all steep to the north, and covered with +sloping plough-shares on the south. The bergs which we left ten miles +back were like _jumbled_ blocks, and were not separated by simple +channels—which looks as if they had been floating separately at some +period and then frozen together again. This may explain the presence of +the sponges and fish which we found so far from any open water. + +On the 24th I wrote: “This is the day of my release from the joys of +cooking! We have done four weeks. A rotten night, cold, and pillow (of +books, etc.) slipping away on the smooth surface. Every one restless. +Smooth ice no good to sleep on, though I had a jersey under me. Bright +next morning, and we took photos till 10 a.m. Then we made across +country towards a hanging valley. Some of the lanes were overhanging, +and I took a photo of Debenham and Evans sitting under a ledge. Sheets +of plate-glass projecting from low bastions were common, but there was +no undulating country. More common were sharp bottle-glass angles +sticking up abominably from about eighteen inches to two feet, and +impeding the sledges, while pot-holes (due to the sun eating round black +silt) caught one’s boots. + +“Lunched in this mullock about two and a half miles from the coast. Then +on practically straight, making fair progress with Evans and C. S. W. at +the sledge, lifting while we pulled. We had several upsets, and the +rucksack was jerked off, but the fossil fish has survived so far. + +“After a final dash up over steep silt-bank between pinnacle ridges +(where the sledge balanced rockingly!) we reached a broad avenue between +moraines and Stonehenge pinnacles of ice. I went back for my brogans, +and fell a frightful ‘cropper,’ getting a spike in my fifth rib. + +“After half an hour or so we plugged on steadily up a beautiful surface +for two and a half miles. The moraines were getting bigger and wider, +and were now about three hundred yards across. We finally reached a +fifty feet silt ‘col,’ and had to portage the sledge. It was mighty +heavy, and flattened our crampons. Later we reached a _cul-de-sac_ among +the moraines, and after a survey I decided to make a final camp, as we +were now favourably situated to explore ‘Snow Valley’ and Heald’s +Island. I don’t understand the ice-slabs or the promontory on the 1902 +map. I guess it is wrong. + +“The sun clouded and snow began. We put the tent in a sandy dell. It was +so small that we had the tent like an old sock at the side! However, we +are on earth again, and not on cold wet ice, even if one post of the +tent is on a huge stone. + +“I cooked my last meal. Raisins in excess (× 2), sugardust about right, +cocoa × 2, chocolate short ¾, cornflour three portions left, cheese +short ¾, biscuits right, and pemmican two feeds left. Butter short owing +to seal-liver feast. We had a good hoosh and drank thick chocolate. + +“My week’s cooking done, Praise Be! 9.20, snowing now and pretty cool.” + +Next morning was devoted to a “make and mend.” All our sleeping-bags and +finnesko were wet with the sloppy icefloors of the last week—for we had +not been able to find any snowdrifts on which to camp. They are much +warmer and drier than ice. + +Behind the tent to the north were slopes about 1000 feet high leading to +empty “hanging” valleys. These radiated from the base of the Lister +scarp, which rose in one steep face 10,000 feet to the summit. This face +was pitted by gigantic “armchair” valleys or, as they are technically +called, cwms, and presented a spectacle which probably could be +paralleled nowhere in the world. + +Looking southward across the Koettlitz from the mouth of one of these +hanging valleys one could see some sort of plan in the icy maze which +had so bewildered us. Above Heald Island the valley was filled with the +glacial stream in a normal uniform mass, interrupted only by crevasses +and falls. But to the east of Heald Island it took the form of a glacier +“delta.” Below the falls the ice descended to the east in a series of +broad undulations, a portion of which we had traversed on the 23rd. Long +promontories of ice fifty feet high extended from the unbroken glacier +mass and probably represented the crests of the undulations. These +degenerated at the ends into icebergs and monoliths of ice, and these +again had weathered into the bastions and pinnacles. Lower down the thaw +waters had etched these into still smaller units, and along the coast +just below me the streams had formed a well-defined if narrow avenue of +smooth ice, which promised us an easier return. + +On these slopes I found an ice-scratched block—the only specimen I had +seen in a hundred miles of moraine debris. + +I walked along the margin of the glacier, and was amazed to see +seal-tracks in the fresh snow. We were over twenty miles from the sea, +and had not seen any possible route for seals on our outward journey. +Yet here were two seals—asleep as usual—on the old glacier ice. I +disturbed one of them to see what it would do. He sneezed and grunted at +me. When I teased him further he began to warble! I heaved a lump of ice +at him, whereupon he lolloped twenty yards to a wet patch, lay over on +his side, and produced a whole octave of musical notes from his chest, +ranging up to a canary-like chirrup. Finally he crawled under a deep +ledge, and vigorously butting with his shoulders, opened out a hole and +flopped under the avenue ice. + +Later I came out among the moraines, and was unable to make out where +our tent was. Soon I saw Wright’s footprints in the snow—two sets, one +going each way. By Sherlockian logic, I decided to follow the +shorter-pace footsteps, judging that the weary owner would walk with +less “vim” returning, and they seemed to be “slurred” also. Finally, a +mile ahead I saw some skua gulls wheeling about, and sure enough below +them I found our tent. + +When I reached camp I found that Wright and Debenham had both met +parties of seals. We all thought of the constant stream along the tide +crack by our last depôt, and came to the conclusion that this was +largely fresh water, and formed the main drainage of the Upper +Koettlitz. By this sub-glacial stream the seals penetrated nearly thirty +miles inland up the Koettlitz Glacier. + +_February 26, 1911._—It seemed advisable to take the sledge as far up +the Koettlitz as we could without waste of time. So we portaged all our +loads out of the _cul-de-sac_ over a moraine col and so reached the +outer margin of the low-level moraine, where another avenue of smooth +ice ran parallel to the Grand Canal which we had been using. About two +miles to the west we passed a seal and its hole. Soon the pinnacle ice +came in so close that there was barely room to squeeze in between it and +the moraine. We had one spill within a few yards of our final camp, and +unfortunately it resulted in the destruction of the focussing screen of +my camera. In a sheltered bay among the moraine heaps we pitched our +furthest camp, where we remained four days. + +About 2.30 we started for Heald Island, which lay three miles to the +south across a tumbled sea of ice practically impassable for sledges. +(This island is placed too far to the south on the _Discovery_ Map.) + +First we crossed the definite line of high pinnacles which extended +almost continuously for twenty miles parallel to the coast. This we +called Stonehenge structure, for many ice masses strongly recalled the +Druid monoliths. Then over a comparatively level area of honeycomb ice +between low bastions. Finally we reached wide level lanes with a thirty +foot wall on the side facing the sun, while the opposite wall sloped +much more gently and was fretted into plough-shares. + +Looking back towards our camp we were facing north towards the sun, so +that we saw the _sheltered_ side of the moraine heaps. The whole surface +seemed to be snow-covered. Yet from the opposite aspect the moraines +seemed to be bare. I expected this constant thawing on one side of the +moraines would have resulted in some asymmetry in their shape, but I was +not able to detect any such characteristic. + +We had not much difficulty in traversing these lanes, and crossed +several cols, down which Debenham and I—who were not wearing +crampons—had to slide in somewhat undignified positions. Here we +separated, Wright and Evans making for the lateral gully north of the +island, while we moved more directly for its eastern face. We had been +steadily rising up the lanes and came to the divide near to Heald +Island. Here a narrow water-cut channel led down to a broad frozen river +100 yards across, which fringed the island on the east. + +Debenham collected along the slopes while I pushed on to get a summit +view. This end of Heald Island was 1100 feet high, and the slope was +very steep, for the most part reaching 30°. It was covered with a talus +of schists, limestones, and basalt, the latter being erratic, while the +former were _in situ_ on the top of the hill. + +I got good views of the topography from the comparatively flat top of +the island. The surface was scraped fairly smooth by glacial action, and +only a thin veneer of basalt rubble was present in this eastern portion. + +I carefully noted the features towards the S.W., and was satisfied that +the slope glaciers (Walcott, Ward, etc.) headed in sharp ranges 6000 +feet high, which joined to the scarp of Lister without any intermediate +longitudinal valley, such as was indicated on the 1902 map as “Snow +Valley.” The surface of the glacier through which we had passed was very +interesting. I could now see that it would take days to get the sledge +up the glacier to a spot where our view would be materially increased, +and judged it better to investigate fairly fully the features in this +interesting region of the valley. + +The island evidently blocked the glacier greatly, for this was 700 feet +higher on the south-west face than where we had crossed it. + +Next morning was foggy and cold, and there had been snow in the night. +We boiled the hypsometer and found that the camp was only 100 feet above +sea-level. At 11 a.m. we started off to explore a large tributary +glacier which we could see across the low-level moraine. Debenham had a +sore heel, due to the deep ridges which developed in our frozen +ski-boots, so that he did not move far afield for the next day or two. + +After crossing two miles of moraines we reached a lake. It was drained +by a stream which ultimately reached the pinnacles of the Koettlitz +glacier. + +Between the ice cliffs and the lake this stream for a considerable +distance flowed under the moraine, and ultimately entered the seals’ +sub-glacial stream and so reached the sea. Coleridge’s lines entered +one’s mind: + + “Where Alph the sacred river ran + Through caverns measureless to man + Down to a sunless sea.” + +So we christened this stream the Alph River. + +We marched along the lake and up the gully beyond. Here a tributary +entered from a large cave in the moraine wall to the north. The roof of +this cave was coated with most beautiful ice crystals, which resembled +pine twigs in shape and were about two inches long. Many brownish ice +stalactites and stalagmites fringed the walls of the cave, and Wright +was lucky in obtaining some beautiful photos of these structures. + +At 4 p.m. we reached our goal—the steep face of the Walcott glacier, but +as the weather looked stormy we had to retreat immediately. Wright and I +compared compass readings here. The needles swung extremely sluggishly, +but we found they were reliable to four degrees—which is about eight +times the ordinary error. The fact that magnetic south was nearly due +north also complicated matters here! We marched back by a different +route and discovered a strong outcrop of basic lava about fifty feet +thick, which was rich in olivine and had caught up fragments of garnet +rock in its passage through the earth’s crust. + +It was a cold cloudy morning on the 27th when we started off for a tramp +over the ancient low-level moraines. We could see a big tributary +glacier about twelve miles away, whose vertical front was separated from +the Koettlitz by two miles of bare moraine heaps. Debenham, with his bad +heel, stayed around the camp where there was plenty of collecting. + +We went a short distance along one of the moraine avenues. Then we +climbed eighty feet up and proceeded over the more or less level moraine +debris for two miles. There we came on an interesting outcrop. It was +very unexpected to find a deep gully 100 feet below the general surface +with water still flowing in the creek at the bottom. The walls were +largely composed of ice hereabouts, and they were melting merrily in the +sun. + +This stream originated in the lake which we had seen a day or two +before, and we reached it viâ some beautiful meanders. At its outlet was +a cave twenty feet deep cut in blue ice. + +Evans and I had a bet as to the length of the lake, in which I recorded +a win; but “Taff” usually came off best in these encounters! + +_February 28, 1911._—We awoke to foggy and cold weather, which was +unsatisfactory, as one of our chief objects was to climb a peak and get +a good view of the hypothetical Snow Valley (between Descent Pass and +the Walcott Glacier). Wright and I went back to Alph Lake some miles to +the west, while Evans and Debenham made another journey to Heald Island +and traversed it almost to its western end. + +I investigated the cave in the silts at the lake outlet. The cave seemed +to be due to a block of ice breaking away at a silt band, for the roof +was filled with stones, while the mass above was clear ice. The interest +lies in the fact that these silts were obviously laid down in water, and +the large boulders arranged in uniform layers indicated that a strong +current had been operating. + +I left Wright at the lake, which he crossed later to examine the +“crystal cave” we had seen previously. Meanwhile I climbed up the steep +delta of the stream leading to the “Ward Hanger,” and visited the latter +valley. + +This gully was about a mile long with steep sides sloping thirty degrees +at first. I made for a black exposure which I could see ahead where the +gully cascaded down from the hanging valley. This was a bed of +decomposed basic lava, about twelve feet thick and pointing to fairly +late volcanic action. + +Then I proceeded up the gully, scrambling over large rounded boulders. I +hurried to the top of the slope and found that a very definite dam +blocked the hanger, just as in the adjacent valley. These dams were, I +think, high-level lateral moraines left by the Koettlitz glacier, and +not _terminal_ moraines of the small tributary glaciers. I could see +that the latter (Ward) glacier now lay about five miles up the valley, +and resembled the others which we had observed previously. + +Wright and I then traced the Alph River from the lake down to the +glacier opposite Heald Island. We had to climb over several rough +barriers of silt-coated ice, under which the stream flowed. The relative +movement of the frozen surface and overhanging ice cliffs led to very +queer twists and bends in numerous icicles, thus forming a striking +example of the plasticity of ice. + +The water was flowing strongly with musical gurgles under a lacework of +crystal-edged ice. We got very wet boots by slipping through on our walk +at the foot of the steep slopes fifty feet high. The river ended in a +little round lake separated from the Koettlitz by the silt-covered +pinnacle described previously. + +We walked along the glacier edge towards the camp. At one spot the water +was welling up through holes in the ice, and appeared to indicate a +slight tide, for it had spread out to varying boundaries at various +times. Probably a variation in temperature would account fully for the +difference in supply. + +We reached the tent about a quarter past six. + +The weather had been dull, and it was useless to expect a good view of +the western scarp and valleys. I decided to wait until the 3rd if +necessary to climb up for this view. The hills were now snow-covered, +and we had several valleys to the north to investigate before our +return. + +The month of March opened with a bright sunny morning, just suited for +our proposed climb up one of the hinterland ranges. We climbed up the +slope about eight hundred feet and soon reached the level floor of the +hanging “valley” just behind the camp. We marched along this to the +north end of the valley towards a prominent peak on the eastern ridge. A +stiff climb over snow slopes and rugged granite led to the summit, which +we reached at 1 p.m. The aneroid made this 3000 feet above sea-level. It +was a beautiful day and we could see Erebus, Discovery, Morning, and the +Pyramid up the Koettlitz. Lister itself, as usual, was in the clouds, +but nearly all below was visible. We could see numerous hinterland +ridges reaching from the Lower Koettlitz to the Lister scarp, and +satisfied ourselves that no lateral “Snow Valley” existed below the +scarp such as has been indicated in earlier maps. + +It was very cold on this hill (which we called Terminus Mountain); and +after swinging the theodolite and taking several photographs we hurried +back to the tent down Ward Valley. + +On March 2 we started our homeward trek; nothing could be worse than our +outward track up the middle of the glacier—though we were able to study +the changes of the glacier ice and so did not regret it. I therefore +decided to hug the coast on our return, though near the depôt the ice +was so full of silt from the moraines that we had not seen any feasible +route along the coast thereabouts. + +For the next few days we followed the course of the sub-glacial Alph +River. Some four miles down-stream from Terminus Camp a rampart of ice +pinnacles commenced, which recalled the monoliths of Stonehenge. These +walled off the rough sea of the Koettlitz Glacier from the frozen +surface of the “river.” This broad lane was here a quarter of a mile +wide and consisted of a level surface broken up by deep sunken “paths.” +The more elevated areas were preferable for sledging, for the paths +occasionally let us through into water. The whole structure was due to +the drainage of water away from rivers and lakelets whose surface had +frozen. + +This splendid track—which we called “Alph Avenue”—enabled us to proceed +with unexpected ease, and each day we halted and explored one of the +numerous tributary valleys which characterized the hinterland. + +Each valley was of the same type. A great bar of debris, some three +hundred feet high, blocked the mouth of the tributary. Within this was a +bare rounded valley extending to the foot of Lister. Some five miles +from the coast was the snout of a tributary glacier which had originally +deposited the moraine, but now was shrunk back to a mere shadow of its +former self. + +All along our route were groups of seals, and numerous skua gulls +enlivened the surroundings. Coming back from one of our détours I was +much amused to see Wright crawling about among the seals in his +investigation of the ice—while thirty skuas were anxiously awaiting the +demise of this obviously crazy seal! + +The summer was over now and we were getting fifty degrees of frost in +the nights. The weather was gloomy, the sun rarely appearing till it had +sunk below the level of the pall of stratus. + +We had an eventful lunch just before reaching our depôt. We pitched the +tent and fastened the door to keep out the wind. I was sitting next +tothe door with my precious lumps of sugar on the floorcloth when I +noticed that water was creeping into the tent. In a few seconds it was +several inches deep. We bolted our raisins, pocketed the lumps of butter +and sugar and rushed out with the sleeping-bags. There was a small lake +all round us, rapidly rising round sledge and tent. The water was +rushing out of a crack one hundred yards below us, probably driven back +by a high tide. We had quite a pilgrimage to get our sledge packed +again, having to walk round the newly formed bay. + +The avenue petered out here, after furnishing us with a magnificent +highway for twenty miles. We had some pretty rough work for the next +mile or so, but reached our depôt safely on the evening of the 5th. + +Having now described many of the glacial valleys it is interesting to +see if we can discover how their peculiar topographies have arisen. One +great problem confronting geologists is to explain how the giant “steps” +and “basins” of the Swiss glacier valleys were produced. In Antarctica +the _gradual_ change in the character of the valleys as we proceed +northward from Mount Discovery has led me to put forward a theory which +I think holds good for these huge glaciers in latitude 78° S., and may +help to explain those in 45° N. + +In old Greek manuscripts one can sometimes discern traces of an older +script half obliterated by the later writings—this MS. is called a +_palimpsest_. Just so in Antarctica—I think that beneath the largest +_outlet_ glaciers, such as the Ferrar and Taylor Glaciers, we can +perceive the relics of an earlier _cwm_ erosion. + +[Illustration: + + The “Palimpsest” theory. Generalised sketch sections, showing the + chief types of valley erosion. I. Early erosion like that shown by + Walcott Glacier, 78° 10′ S. II. Headward erosion producing a + “finger” valley, shown by Davis Glacier, 78° S. III. Plateau ice + overwhelming the cwm glaciers giving profile like the Ferrar + Glacier, 77° 40′ S. IV. Pronounced erosion by “thaw and freeze” (= + nivation), as shown in the Taylor Valley, 77° 30′ S. +] + +Near Heald Island is the gigantic scarp of the Royal Society Range +10,000 feet high. Cutting into its face are simple cwm glaciers such as +the Walcott glacier. This stage is shown in section I. As the snow +accumulates (and turns into ice _in situ_) we get a gnawing process, in +the moat, etc., at the margin of the glacier, which gradually extends +backwards and eats out a long parallel valley such as the Davis Valley +(section II). If the plateau ice-cap increases sufficiently it will +drain to the sea as an _outlet_ glacier. This will obviously tend to +follow the lowest contours and so would naturally overwhelm a series of +cwm glaciers (such as shown in II). Hence we get a glacier falling over +steps (and cutting gradually through them) which were originally heads +of cwm valleys (see section III). Finally, these big glaciers may +retreat very slowly, and at their snouts—in a somewhat complicated way +which I have explained elsewhere—further erosion by nivation will +produce basins with level bottoms, such as those in the Taylor Valley[2] +(section IV). In the maximum of glacier flow (for which we have to go to +temperate climes for good examples) there is much “planing” by the +glacier, but not in Antarctica under the present conditions. At any +rate, the conclusion I have reached after two summers’ sledging, is that +considerable frost, wind, and water action is occurring in the Ross Sea +area, and very little true glacier erosion. Moreover, the gradual +succession of types of valley erosion which we investigated makes me +confident that some such cycle of evolution as sketched above is not +only possible, but has taken place in the south. + +On arrival we swept the snow from our old ground and camped on the bare +gravel, for our floorcloth was quite soaked. I went over to the seal I +had killed a fortnight earlier and managed to cut through the frozen +hide. Evans and I then managed to prize off some blubber with the spade. +The blubber was quite soft where it was protected from the air. Evans +and Wright were frankly sceptical as to the value of blubber as a means +of frying! + +[Illustration: Forks for Blubber 5·3·11] + +“After cleaning out the aluminium base of the cooker, Debenham cut the +blubber into strips and heated it up. It soon began to melt and gave off +much steam at first. The smell was like fried herrings and not +unpleasant! We had thawed out some liver from my cache, and at +2° F. it +was as hard as iron! I cut it into strips and we cooked it in the +blubber for a quarter of an hour or so. Debenham tasted it, and then I +ate the first piece. + +“Jolly good! Absolutely no taste of fish or oil, which was curious in +view of the smell of herrings. Evans took his bit gingerly, and then +handsomely acknowledged that he had been sold. He reckoned their cook +had tried to poison them in 1902. We used safety pins as forks, and my +bowie knife to turn it over. A vote of thanks to Deb was passed by the +company! + +“With luck we shall camp in the middle of the Dailey Isles to-morrow +(Monday). On Wednesday get to Hut Point, and then two days to Cape +Evans.” + +This prophecy was rather feeble! We took nine days to reach Hut Point, +and five weeks elapsed before we saw our own headquarters! + +_March 6, 1911 (Monday)._—A fairly sunny morning with a temperature of +−8° at 9.30. We spent some time in packing all our depôted goods. I +carried an empty biscuit tin to the nearest large moraine heap, and +buried it halfway in the gravel with a note of our journey. The sun, +glancing on the bright metal surface, made this a very distinct landmark +some distance from the moraines. + +We had now two sledges to pull, but the surface was very good. We made +for the nearest Dailey Island. After one and a half hours we reached old +ice at a higher level than the sea-ice we had just left. Here I mounted +a hummock and saw that open water extended to Davis Bay, and was +practically within one mile of our track. We were rather astonished, for +this ice (around Blue Glacier) had not been out for several years. We +pushed on and camped two and a half miles from West Dailey Isle for +lunch. Another two miles brought us to a most interesting locality. All +around us were heaps of large sponges half buried in snow and ice. The +three largest heaps were about 8 feet long and one and a half feet high. +The sponges were a foot in diameter, and among the long spicules we +found Bryozoa, Brachiopoda, Serpulæ, Molluscs, and a fine solitary +coral. + +How did these marine animals come to be entangled in the old ice on +which we found them? The ice was apparently normal fresh-water +glacier-ice, but may have been originally sea-ice from which the salt +had drained out. At any rate, it was floating—for half a mile further +east was a succession of grinding ice-cracks. I believe the sponges were +pushed up (from a depth of twenty feet or so below water) by the edge of +the Koettlitz glacier, in some palæocrystic age when its snout was much +less advanced. + +We pushed on about a quarter of a mile, and reached irregular ice +crossed by a deep gully due to tide cracks. Here we left the sledges, +and all climbed up the West Dailey Island. We attacked the nearest +snow-covered slope, though later we found it was the steepest portion of +the island. There was a fair route along the snow, however, and we soon +reached the top. Two asymmetric valleys crossed the island, whose cross +section seemed to indicate glacial erosion from the south-east. Blocks +of marble, kenyte, and gneiss were scattered over the island, which was +itself composed of basic lava. We were most interested, however, in the +view towards Erebus, for we hoped to see a clear route to Cape Evans. + +[Illustration: + + Map showing our journey round the breaking barrier. +] + +Four miles north of us was a prominent crack leading east and west. All +the ice to the east and north-east was rough, pinnacled stuff as far as +we could see. In the distance Inaccessible and Tent Islands appeared +clearly, and also a curtain of frost smoke. We could not detect the +latter much south of Tent Island, and hoped this meant that the ice had +not gone out behind Glacier Tongue. + +1 decided to camp after another mile, and then skirt along the pinnacle +(bearing towards Cape Royds) until it appeared feasible to cross to the +east. I photographed the little valleys on the island, and then we +returned down a much easier slope to sea-level. Here we saw a young skua +practising its first flights under the eye of two older birds. + +We camped in the snow amid troubled ice just off the north-east corner +of West Dailey Island. + +_March 7, 1911._—We had a wakeful night, for the pressure ice at 2.30 +started groaning and creaking just under our heads. We had a temperature +of −13°, and the night was quite dark, though a glow was apparent to the +south. In the morning a cold wind from the south-east arose. + +I had to prospect across half a mile of bad surface, but found a fair +route for a single sledge before the packing was concluded. The sledges +stuck badly on sharp snags, and we had to relay through tables and over +snow-covered ledges and crevices. Then we reached a glass-house surface, +which was fairly stable owing to the thick covering of snow. We held +along the west side of the broad tongue of bad ice and made fair +progress. It was pretty cold, however, and Debenham suffered two +frostbitten toes. + +About 4.30 I felt that we ought to be near the end of the Pinnacle Ice +as shown on the map. So we pulled towards it, and reached high ridges +rather suddenly. We camped here, and Wright and I penetrated the ice for +a mile, making for a specially high pyramid. The surface was frightful, +consisting of big rough undulations much broken into snags and pyramids, +and crossed by frozen rivers with window-glass buried in snowdrifts. We +could see no difference in the distant east. It was evident that we +could not cross here, and must make still farther north. We felt that +the whole broad tongue had moved north. It was necessary, therefore, to +turn back and go rather to the north-west. Hence we called this Keerweer +Camp, after the Cape Keerweer where the old Dutch captain retreated from +Australia. + +_March 8, 1911._—We moved off along the edge of the pinnacle to the +north. We did about one and a half miles, and got bogged in bad country. +A prospect ahead showed that we had entered a sort of _cul-de-sac_. We +could see frost smoke rising all around us, and heard seals; and, +apparently, orcas blowing and grunting, much closer than we could +explain, for we could see no water. Finally, we decided to keep to the +smoother ice, and so for the next mile or so were heading for Butter +Point, directly away from our destination at Hut Point. Soon we turned +more to the east, and topping a small rise, were confronted by a large +bay of open water in the pinnacle ice, in which several orcas were +apparently enjoying our discomfiture. The water lay right across our +path, and we made as rapid a course as we could lay for the further side +of the bay. + +Before going many yards into the pinnacle ice we came on a labyrinthic +river of salt water fifty feet or so below the general level of the +pinnacle. Luckily the pancake had jammed in this valley, and it was +strong enough to carry the sledges. We had to haul up the sledges by +hand on the further (southern) side. Here we lunched, and soon after +came to a fifteen-foot drop, which necessitated casting off one sledge. +I prospected ahead, and the other three followed almost as quickly as I +could pick out a feasible route. Every now and again I climbed a +pinnacle, and got a fair view, and so we got along much more easily than +I had anticipated. + +The grade was good, but necessitated much winding about, and very often +drifts of sand covered the ice and played havoc with the runners. The +drifts of snow, eighteen inches deep, were no trouble compared with a +thin film of sand on an ice ridge. + +We could hardly get a fragment of ice hereabouts which was not full of +sponge spicules, which did not improve the hoosh. It was very curious to +see the skuas pecking at the numerous sponges lying around, while they +neglected the small frozen fish (Notothenia), of which I saw a dozen! + +By six o’clock we brought up our second sledge to the site I had chosen +for a camp. Just north of the camp was a large cavern excavated in the +side of a thirty foot cliff by a meandering river, now frozen. We had a +fairly sheltered position for the tent, but there was no snow for the +flaps. However, ice blocks made that all secure. Before turning in we +took a round of angles, which should fix the position of the edge of the +open water quite accurately. + +_March 9, 1911._—A comfortable night, the temperature only falling to +−3°. We picked a pretty fair route across the meandering gully. At one +place a snowdrift had built up a track above the undercut edge of the +river. Then we went down-stream a quarter of a mile, and then hauled the +sledges up the further bank. We could see quite a large patch of smooth +snow towards Observation Hill, and made in this direction. As we were +not more than sixty feet above sea-level, I judged this to be four miles +off, which turned out to be the case, though it took us nearly two days +to reach it. + +We pulled in relays, doing one and a quarter miles with the light sledge +in less than an hour, and then returning for the heavy sledge with some +knowledge of the conditions ahead. Twenty-five minutes took us back to +the other sledge, and sixty-five minutes more with the heavy sledge +brought our whole equipment one and a quarter miles nearer Hut Point. + +Bad sandy patches still annoyed us, but the ice was gradually becoming +more level as we penetrated further south. In the afternoon we did a +longer relay, with less sand but more snow. We had to cross several +creeks, and had some upsets, but at the end of our day’s work a climb to +a pinnacle showed up smooth sea-ice no great distance ahead in the +direction of Tent Island. Six hours’ hard work—largely hand-hauling—had +only given us three miles of progress. However, we were able to enjoy +the chocolate provided by Evans in honour of his own birthday, and we +christened the camp Birthday Camp in consequence. + +I feel that I cannot more fittingly describe the last few days of our +First Journey than by transcribing my sledge diary. The style is +“choppy,” but if the reader will picture the conditions under which the +journal was written he will perhaps excuse lapses. We were now coasting +the breaking Barrier edge, just where Bowers’s party had gone adrift a +week before (see p. 197). It was getting very cold, and we had been +sledging six weeks—over really awful surfaces since mid-February—and +were feeling stale and in need of some comfortable rest at night. + +“... _Friday, March 10._—I am writing this on the morning of the 11th, +after a rotten night. The tent is flapping and C. S. W. wears a worried +look as the icy aluminium pot sticks to his finger. I have filled the +cooker with powdered snow. There is drift everywhere, an eighth of an +inch thick in C. S. W.’s bag, who got out to survey the scene. I have a +blistered ear, and am wet everywhere owing to perspiration. There is no +joy in us, though sounding merry. I slept on the outside, where Debenham +has slept hitherto. However, I could get my back warm against him, which +is not the case when we reverse! + +“We moved off about 11 a.m. with the light sledge. Debenham prospected +one-third of a mile, and then returned to say that we could go on with +both. So we pulled up the heavy one, and in less than half an hour +reached the level ice, about 11.45. Hence we traversed about six miles +of pinnacle ice. We had heavy going for a mile, owing to deep snow +between hard patches, occasionally knee-deep. + +“Now a long argument arose as to the course. Debenham wished to head +straight for Glacier Tongue, and reach Cape Evans same night maybe. I +judged it not much further to Hut Point, and we were rather near the sea +edge. Evans felt frostbite in toes, but said later it was due to +chocolate-paper stuffing! + +“We camped for lunch at 1 p.m., with good hopes of getting all ‘sprowsy’ +by night. The others put on finnesko, as all very cold. My feet troubled +me least of all. Good ho! so I didn’t change from boots, though blisters +very raspy when one’s foot slipped into a deep crack! Left about 2.30 +and surface got much better—patches of hard white snow and some ice. We +decided to get to Hut Point or bust! About 5 p.m. we decided to bust, +for there was apparently five miles of open water before the Hut! So we +deviated with what speed we might to the south, gradually veering +further south in the teeth of a young blizzard, which made much drift +and at times obscured land. We donned coats and windproof, and during +the last hour got very wet with sweat. Rather tired when at 6.30 we +stopped near snowdrift, being four miles from the sea. + +“We had to put up the pole first and then the tent, which nearly blew +away, and the floorcloth afterward. I got into finnesko and got fairly +warm, though the primus went out several times through draught, etc. +Huge blocks of snow on flap. Rather slow prospect of a week or two at +Hut Point, when we felt yesterday pretty sure of getting to Cape Evans +in two days! Wind moderated at intervals in the night. Good sunset and +fairly clear, so this is not a true blizzard. + +“_Saturday, March 11._—Fairly clear, still some snowdrift and gusty. Up +early. Every one uncomfortable in the night. Hope to reach the Hut _viâ_ +Pram Point about 4 p.m. + +“Drift packed hard round the tent, and had to dig out it and sledges. + +“Made an early start at 9.45 a.m. Saw mists rising apparently all way +from Hut Point to White Island. One column of dark cloud very +persistent, the rest varied with wind somewhat. So we made for east +centre of White Island over poor surface owing to fairly soft snow. + +“Finnesko nice and warm, felt as if one’s feet bare after boots. We did +six miles and camped where we seemed to see the crack petering out. Then +two miles in the hour to (3.45) where we deviated from White Island. +Here Castle Rock was occulted by Observation Hill. I thought end of +water would be only three-quarters of an hour away! We saw a black dot +and cairn of snow and decided it was the Barrier depôt. + +“We had crossed one crack, probably an old one. The depôt turned out to +be a fawn-chested seal, active and bold, which moved off rapidly (4.30). +(The open water was here only half a mile away.) The cairn was pressure +ice, probably old line of permanent ice. About a mile further came on +sledge tracks of _depôt_ party.[3] Don’t see their depôt anywhere. Not +possible it has gone out, as undoubtedly some of Barrier has. At 5.30, +after doing about four and a half miles, we reached southern end of +broad bay of water. + +“C. S. W. took photo here, but so cold that spring shutter didn’t work, +I fear. Then on for two miles further to our Barrier camp. + +“_Sunday, March 12._—Rotten night; slept about four half hours and +shivered, sore ear, cold knees and back, everything wet (on outside). +Helmet a mass of ice, and so wrapped my head in windproof pants. Others +better. Dreamt six individual dreams, including our relief by a rival +party of kids! I got up to read aneroid and so acquired merit! + +“Primus a great bother in the morning. + +“Quite foggy and snowing considerably. Not safe to say where we’ll be +to-night! + +“We left about 10. Foggy everywhere and drift blowing, but could see +sun. Went (S. 40° W. magnetic) for two miles or so, then steered by sun. +We saw a black object on ahead. Evans said an ice-foot; I said boxes. +They turned out to be bales of fodder nearly covered and an empty +dog-biscuit box. From here tracks of five sledges (no ponies) lead to +Pram Point. We piled up fodder higher, and left map and note tied to our +depôt pole.[4] By this time wind getting stronger. + +“We marched on over undulations, mostly heavy going. Wind from the +south-east. About 11.30 a.m. followed sledge track right to a narrow +gulf leading into Barrier, with broken block sticking out. Ice twenty to +thirty feet above water, some snowy, new ice in the open gulf (elsewhere +all clear water). The shore went nearly due west from here. We crossed a +strong crack rising several feet. C. S. W.’s foot went in here. I +deviated to north-east from here, and pulled three-quarters of an hour +in worse wind and drift. Camped at 12.45, about four miles from main +edge and one and a half from crack (and edge). Very blowy and blinding, +and cold. Had lunch and no better! Stayed in tent, and here we are held +up indefinitely only six or seven miles from the Hut! We tried dancing +to warm feet. Played cards, sang, changed socks. Finally, about 4.30, +all went outside and filled cooker with snow. We decided to have an +early supper and turn into our wet bags. We lit the Primus, and let the +flames singe our feet to warm them. Talked of Cambridge cake and tea and +other delights. I put on pyjama pants for the first time. It may prevent +chills to-night, but I doubt it. Evans told cheerful tale of snow wall +round tent at Cape Crozier, when they were pinned in for five days in +September in 1903! + +“We can’t see a hundred feet anywhere. The rime is dripping down my neck +and covering our bags. Drifts are slipping off the tent. Wind veering +somewhat southerly from south-east. Now and again we peeped out of +doors. No improvement. Couldn’t get into shore probably to camp, as +water is evidently exceptionally far to east. No camping on slopes, I +understand, and daren’t try to reach the Hut (eight miles or more round) +in this damned young blizzard. Guess we’ll shiver it out. Underpants +make much warmer, but toes nearly as cold as ever. 5.30 p.m. Booming of +lid of biscuit tin outside is like Inchcape Bell.” + +[N.B.—13th and 14th written later in Hut.] + +“_Monday, March 13._—Pretty miserable all day. Stayed in bags till 10 or +so. Tent flapping wildly. There had been a lull in the night; slight +shift to south-west at times set the door swinging. Couldn’t get going +at all. Had lunch at 12 (no breakfast). I didn’t like the idea of +Barrier edge being only one mile away, and we are on a bad crack; but as +thirty feet cliff, probably ice is eighty feet thick. Couldn’t see the +sun all day till late in the p.m. Evans told yarns as usual. We had +supper about 5 p.m., after trying a melancholy game of Rickety Kate, in +which we couldn’t deal in mits, and got frostbitten if we took them off. +I managed to read a bit of “The Great Plot.” C. S. W. cursed baccy, and +Deb lay low and felt cold. We turned into the bags very early, though +the sun appeared about 5 p.m., and could get a sight of land above the +drift. + +“Evans said curious wind never to south-west, and so _not_ a real +blizzard.[5] + +“_Tuesday, March 14._—Another night nearly as bad as the previous, with +sore backache added, for everything damp. Used to put head and all +inside bag for ten minutes and _hot_ up bag. Then open nose hole to get +oxygenated again! + +“We got up at 7 a.m. and had early breakfast, but it came on very badly +about ten, and as we knew directions we decided to make for Castle Rock +anyway within half an hour. We dug out sledges and the tent flap. A long +lee snow slope lay a hundred feet to north of sledges. Instrument boxes +and tank full of drifts of snow, of course. + +“Bags thrice proper weight. Mine worse split than ever, so I have no +hood now. We marched on rather difficultly, but wind helped us +considerably over small sastrugi and drifts. Helmets tight over head, +but _under_ chin[6] (_i.e._ not coldest). All our duds on—a mistake as +one gets so sweaty and it is tiring. Went on and on. Could see ice bluff +on left, passed it and approaching slopes. Wondering if we’d have +trouble at the tide cracks, which Evans described. All lost to sight in +fog about 1.30. Plugged on steadily, had hallucination of hawthorn trees +just behind one. (Why?) Told C. S. W. we were ascending, and wondered +where the tide crack was. We had steered for the cone all the way to +reach the incline as used by Evans (day of Vince disaster, 1902). + +“Just about 2 p.m., I guessed we were over the tide crack, and the sun +appeared and showed us we were one-third way up the mountain! So we +joyfully had lunch in the strong wind. Then transferred all necessaries +to the big sledge (including ski boots), and left about 3.30 for the +climb to Castle Rock. Not half so bad as expected, steady pull up eight +degrees (about four miles), only two stops. Reached the top at 5.30, +without trouble except for some slipping on hard snow. We zigzagged a +bit. Castle Rock is composed of agglomerate with brownish outer zone, +over a darker centre. Height about 150 feet (boss). We had a short rest. +A very strong wind blowing across us now. Evans evidently had Vince in +mind, and wouldn’t let us pull quickly, though on a broad platform. We +saw here a team track, apparently a dog team with sledge-meter. We had +arguments as to its meaning and decided only one unit back. C. S. W. +reckoned all the ponies ‘gone under’ as no tracks. Plateau one and a +half miles long and one thousand feet high. Then we saw four men over +towards Crater Heights. A great sight, though comic, to see arms +swinging and fat wind clothes. Not like Penguins! They came towards us. +We guessed the names all wrong, except Birdie. (They were Dr. Bill, +Atch, and Cherry.) We heard all were safe and back, that the queer +tracks were due to rescue of Bowers, Crean, and Garrard. They took our +sledge down Ski Slope. Dr. Bill said, ‘Go and see the Owner.’ They were +just expecting us. I put on crampons and met Scott. He told me of loss +of ponies. Of the eight, three died in blizzard, three lost on floe, so +only two left. We got to the hut about 7 p.m. Found it all cleared out +by Atch and Keohane; very dark and sooty from the blubber stove. Only +one lantern, we sat around; and pots served out in fixed order. Owner +arranged for us to sleep in the ‘Sanctuary,’ opposite window. We had one +lantern over stove, and then turned in to wet bags and slept fairly. +Gran gave us finnesko. Will get Gran and Garrard’s yarns after.” + + + + + IV + A MONTH IN THE OLD _DISCOVERY_ HUT + + MARCH–APRIL, 1911 + + +[Illustration: + + ALPH RIVER CUTTING THROUGH THE MORAINES AND ANCIENT ICE. + + [See p. 170. +] + +[Illustration: + + “DISCOVERY” HUT, JAN. 25, 1911. + + Showing the ice slope above the bay leading from the Gap to the Hut. + Note the eaves of the hut on left. +] + + + + + A MONTH IN THE OLD _DISCOVERY_ HUT + + +While we had been engaged on the western journey, Scott had made his +depôt at One Ton Camp, and had returned north to Ross Island, a +fortnight before we arrived. During February the sea-ice had broken away +far to the south of Glacier Tongue—which marked the water’s edge in +January—and it was now impossible to return to Cape Evans by the route +they had marched south. + +Moreover, the icy slopes of Erebus were seamed with crevasses, and many +ice-falls lay at the root of Glacier Tongue, so that an overland journey +was out of the question also. Luckily the old _Discovery_ Hut had been +placed on the long rocky southern promontory of Ross Island named Cape +Armitage, and even under present conditions, with the water reaching to +Pram Point, it was possible to get to this hut from the Barrier +surface—as, indeed, the last chapter has shown. + +A queer little hut indeed is this, compared with our palace on Cape +Evans! It is square in plan, and rises to a central peak. All around is +a sort of verandah, with outer walls reaching halfway to the ground. +This was designed to hold stores and protect them from the blizzard +snows. But the hut was hardly used at all by the 1902 expedition. When +we first saw it in January, 1911, it was filled with snow and ice to +within a few feet of the ceiling, and did not look by any means an +attractive place of abode. + +During February, Dr. Atkinson and Crean had spent a large portion of +their time excavating the hut, and had ultimately cleared it completely +of ice. A great heap of ice blocks and chips marked the extent of their +labours. They had piled up the boxes of captain biscuits into a barrier +enclosing the north portion of the hut, and in this dark retreat the +western party found the depôt party on the 15th March. + +We reached our refuge about 7 p.m. It was almost dark outside and quite +so inside. An acrid atmosphere of blubber, smoke, and soot enveloped us +as we occupied the rough planks grouped around the heart of the hut. +Here was built up a primitive blubber stove, crowned by a chimney whose +vagaries formed the chief topic of conversation among the inmates. Only +one dim candle in a sooty lantern illumined the scene. The windows were +deeply frosted, and it was getting on towards winter now, so that only +in the middle of the day could they give much light. + +[Illustration: Sketch-map of the Environs of Hut Point in March April +1911] + +As will be seen by the plan attached, our dining-room was at the north, +furthest from the blizzard winds. There were two bedchambers. One on the +_west_ side, where six of our sleeping-bags were disposed like sardines +in a tin; and another _central_ boudoir, rigged up out of antique canvas +left in 1902. This the occupants called—as it seemed to us west-enders +on a _lucus a non lucendo_ principle—Virtue Villa! + +[Illustration: + + Plan of the rejuvenated _Discovery_ Hut, March, 1911. +] + +In the semi-gloom of the hut it took me some days to find out my +direction, for inside one seemed to be twisting as if one were in a +maze. In fact, to reach Teddy Evans’ quarters one had to return +practically to the door, having circumnavigated Virtue Villa. + +That first evening we sat round the reeking stove and thankfully ate +seal hoosh out of the tin mugs, helped down—though little it needed +it—by unlimited captain’s biscuit nearly ten years old. Captain Scott +allotted the new-comers quarters in the west end, and we turned into our +soaking bags and slept fairly well in spite of the drips from the roof. +Each sleeper unconsciously rolled away from the drops, and many were the +territorial arguments caused by the drips from the ice-covered roof. + +Next day at 6 a.m. the cooks (Meares and Keohane) turned out to prepare +the breakfast. The others got up an hour later, to find a thick pemmican +of seal meat and curry awaiting their attack. Thereafter we each had a +mug of cocoa. Work starts immediately, for we are literally living from +hand to mouth. So Wilson and most of the men go off to Pram Point to +kill our dinner. Teddy Evans with two mates puts in the morning cutting +up seal meat, while the western party set off to fetch in our second +sledge from the slopes below Castle Rock. + +From the top of the promontory by Castle Rock we got a good view +northwards to Cape Evans, distance about twelve miles. There was open +water this side of the Tongue, but ice was forming on it. Further north +it looked more solid, and I lugubriously wrote, “It will be a fortnight +before we get off, I fear.” + +The worst feature about Hut Point was the approach thereto. It was about +twenty-five feet above the waterline, which here was bounded by an ice +cliff twelve feet high at the foot of a quite steep icy slope. This +slippery route fringed the bay, and was of necessity traversed by any +one approaching from the north or east. As there was usually a blizzard +blowing directly down this slope to the water, it took us some days to +traverse “ski slope” with equanimity. We put rope grommets (brakes) on +the sledge runners, or the whole outfit would have sidled over the edge +into the water. By 5 p.m. we had brought all our specimens and +instruments safely to _Discovery_ Hut. + +The other party had killed eleven seals, and returned two hours later. +We had a grand feed of seal-liver seasoned with peas. A box of dried +peas was one of the relics of the 1902 expedition, which was dug up from +the snow; and though the outside was black and mouldy, the heart of the +box furnished us with magnificent dishes of “pea-doo.” + +The blubber stove worked better every day. One “fid” (or slab) of seal +blubber would soon make the iron top red-hot. So we were actually able +to wash the pannikins! Only those who have drunk cocoa and tea for +months out of mugs, used also for pemmican and blubber fry, can +understand the luxury of a _clean_ drink. + +Never shall I forget my feeling of comfort that night. We had managed to +dry our bags in the midday sun, and I can still recall the springy +warmth of the reindeer bags, after so many days of what at best was +clammy discomfort. + +[Illustration: + + The blubber stove in the old _Discovery_ hut, March, 1911. +] + +On the 16th Evans led a party to Corner Camp, about thirty-five miles to +the south, to get some fodder for our two ponies, and also some stores +for the sixteen men in our little community. He asked Wright to join +him, so that our mate was soon in the thick of the blizzards again. + +Just outside the door were the dog-lines. The dogs lay in “rifle-pits” +dug out of the icy slopes above the bay. Poor fellows, their fur was +clogged with ice, and their short commons on the Barrier made them +woefully thin. Very miserable did they look for some days, for their +hair is normally so thick that it lends them a fictitious size. I +assisted Meares to dig the holes deeper, and build up barriers to the +south. It was pleasant to see how the rest and abundance of seal meat +soon improved them out of all recognition. Many of them were loosed when +we went for a walk. They would start out with us, and lend a touch of +home to the dour landscape, but they were not very companionable, and, +except for brown Tsigan, they always left us behind as too slow, and +later bolted for the hut. + +In a day or two our party swung into routine in the old hut. We could +not move more than a mile or so from Hut Point. We had nothing here but +fragments left over from 1902, and some sledging rations, and yet the +time passed not unpleasantly, for there were a thousand and one jobs to +be done. I will quote my diary fairly fully for 17th March, for it was +typical of the next few weeks. + +“We got up rather late, so that I read the thermometer at 9 a.m. instead +of 8 a.m. After that had breakfast of porridge and a ripping ‘hoosh’ of +liver. Then a cup of cocoa, to which three pills of Gran’s saccharine +gave a sweet inky taste. I next sewed up a six-inch tear in my +sleeping-bag. I did not sleep well last night, nor did Scott, who was +next; I will try fur _inside_ to-night. It is blizzing again, and I am +glad I am not on the Barrier with Evans, Wright, and the rest. + +“Then I pared some sealskin soles thin (the fresh skin is just like soft +leather) and sewed them into the old finnesko presented to me by Gran. +We played “shut-eye” for a tin of marmalade. [I ladled out a spoonful, +and Scott, with shut eyes, said whose it was; and so on.] We had two and +a half spoons each, and as it was Keohane’s birthday I gave him the tin +to scrape out. + +“At lunch we had a great discussion on Browning and Tennyson. My simile +comparing them to a rough rare mineral and polished rubbish was not +accepted! Scott preferred Keats. Meares opened tins with my dagger in +military fashion, as he had learnt in South Africa [_i.e._ he made a +fulcrum of a bar of wood beneath the blade]. Scott tried to improve the +lighting by smearing blubber on the windows, which at any rate made it +easier to flake the fresh ice off each day. Dr. Bill is mending gloves +with pared sealskin. Gran is making a ski-stick from a piece of bamboo +he’s found. Debenham is tidying the kitchen, and puts up racks to hold +the ‘spirtles’ (_i.e._ porridge-stirrers). I rifled the 1902 magnetic +huts, and cut out lids for the porridge-pans from sheets of asbestos. +Our literature consists of _Contemporary Reviews_, _Eclectic Magazines_, +_Girls’ Own_, and the _Family Herald_.” + +We spent some time trying to make the hut snugger. We piled heaps of +snow and ice against the walls to keep off the blizzards. Among the +debris I found ancient dog biscuits which reverted to their original +purpose, and an old bag of oatmeal which went into our menu. A great +discovery was a torn copy of “My Lady Rotha.” The first and last +chapters were missing, but I gathered the loose pages and dried them, +and enjoyed reading it again. Curiously no one else in the hut had read +it, and as we had only about three books, every one read Weyman’s novel. +I couldn’t remember quite how it ended, for the plot is very +concentrated to the end; the elderly hero not having found a son or a +second wife; and the lady debating between the ancient count and the +lunatic lover. I am afraid I finished it off in several ways to various +applicants, none of which would have pleased the author! + +There was another book which Gran had taken sledging and had torn off +the first few pages for pipe lights. This was “Springtime,” a romance of +medieval Italy. A good yarn, and Scott guessed it was by Hewlett. I +disagreed, but couldn’t remember the writer—who is H. C. Bailey, I +believe. + +It was very curious how useful were the 1902 remains. That expedition +wintered on the ship, but some articles had been left ashore, and the +hut had only been used as a hospital. + +However, we found old _awnings_, which Taff Evans used as arras (or is +it _arrases_?) for our bed-chamber! There were asbestos sheets with +which we levelled the floor, and made pan lids; brass nails, also from +the magnetic hut, which had not rusted of course; long stove pipes and +asbestos cement, with which we ultimately made a smoke-free blubber +stove. A dubious mass of brownish glue turned up under some snow. Bowers +tested this, and ultimately we had bovril flavouring in all our hooshes! +And there was of course the definite depôt of captain’s biscuits left in +1903, and also a few wholemeal biscuits which Shackleton had depôted in +1908. The latter swelled like muffins on the red-hot stove, and we used +to have one with butter as a special luxury. Those Shackleton biscuits +were a dream! + +On the 20th seals were reported just under Hut Point, and of course were +much handier than the rookery at Pram Point. So Scott and four of us +went off to get them. We lowered Keohane and Evans down the steep cliff +below Vince’s Cross on to a piece of fixed floe, and the two seals were +killed with a few blows on the nose with a pick handle. Dr. Bill and +Meares went down to help cut them up, and Scott and I hoisted the flesh +up by the ropes. Just as we were finishing three more seals appeared, +and one crawled right up to the shambles. He stayed there all the time, +and only left when the carcases were thrown overboard. + +That night there was a wild storm. Spray was blown up over the cape and +over the hut, where it instantly froze. It cemented the snow heaps, and +would have encased some of the dogs if they had not been freed from +their chains. Next morning I had to chip my way down to the shelf where +I had left the thermometers. We had to cut out fresh holes for the dogs, +during which operation one aggressive fellow got hold of another by the +neck, and the combined efforts of the sapping party could not drag him +off. + +When the weather permitted we went off to get seals or to have some +exercise. A strong wind used to blow almost constantly towards the hut +through the “Gap.” + +Often when one was loaded with seal blubber, or camping material, the +icy slope between the gap and the hut was dangerous work. By this time +our crampons (spiked overshoes) were useless, for the spikes had worn +quite blunt. The wind would catch us, and irresistibly slant us down the +ice slope to the sea. On several occasions, when one of the Western +Party was wearing his iron _steig-eisen_, an unfortunate crampon-wearer +would clutch hold of him and accept escort over this giant “slide.” + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by H. G. Ponting._] + + CRATER HEIGHTS, THE GAP AND OBSERVATION HILL AS VIEWED FROM THE OLD + “DISCOVERY” HUT. + + The catenary curve of the Gap, due to glaciation, is well shown. In + the foreground is the icy slope which ended (abruptly on the right) + in open water. +] + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by H. G. Ponting._] + + MOUNT EREBUS FROM THE OLD “DISCOVERY” HUT. + + The steam cloud is blowing to the south-east against the prevailing + surface winds. The small craters of Cape Armitage are shown on the + left as stumps of lava. A series of false moraines crosses the + picture (due to rock fall). In the foreground are the “tesselations” + due to soil-creep. +] + +What long discussions we had! Scott was interested in everything, and I +note that one evening we discussed Mormonism, the medieval ramparts of +Aigues Mortes, and the pronunciation of ancient Greek! + +On the 23rd March the Barrier party returned. They had experienced +temperatures of −42° F. Wright told me that it used to take three hours +to get warm—after they had thawed the ice out of their bags. On leaving +the tent in the morning in a clammy wet state, the instantaneous +freezing of their clothes felt like an electric shock! + +I made a tour to inspect the “moraines” on Crater Heights, accompanied +by Dr. Wilson. I believe they are due to differential erosion of lavas +of varying resistance, and have not been left there by an upward +extension of the Barrier Ice Sheet. + +[Illustration: Steig-eisen 11·2 11] + +Dr. Bill told me of the loss of the ponies. He and Meares with the dog +teams made straight across to the hut over the sea-ice from the Barrier +camp. They noticed cracks every thirty feet or so, and so deviated +sharply to the east, and reached _terra firma_ at Pram Point. They then +started cutting a track up the ice slope for the ponies. Meanwhile +Bowers, Garrard, and Crean had not noticed the dog teams swerving, but +had turned back later. They had to camp on the sea-ice, because the +ponies were too “done” to get back two miles to the Barrier ice. They +woke in the small hours of 1st March to find that one pony had vanished, +and they were adrift on a broken floe. They drifted about all night and +next day, while Wilson could do nothing but watch them from the top of +Observation Hill. Wilson went off and met Scott, who had come to the +open water, and was able to tell him that there was a chance yet. + +The pony party spent four hours or more trying to get to a large piece +of ice to the south, which seemed to be separated from the firm barrier +by a narrow crevasse. They left the ponies and went off to prospect, and +found the space was sixty feet wide and full of grinding floes! There +was a big swell all around, but Bowers gave Crean permission to try to +cross the gap. He managed to do so by some amazing jumps, and with the +aid of two ice-axes he climbed the edge of the Ice Barrier, and so +informed Scott of their danger. + +Meanwhile Cherry and Birdie took things philosophically. I heard how +Birdie took angles with the theodolite to determine the position of +their floating island. A skua gull settled near them, and Cherry thought +it well to annex this food supply, and did so. I was told that Crean +made some stiff cocoa for them while they were trying to rescue the +sledges. In the dark he mixed the food bags and a strong decoction of +curry resulted. Nothing daunted, the Irish sailor declared it was as +warming as the other, and drank it off. + +On the afternoon of the 1st the rescue party managed to communicate with +them, and Bowers and Cherry and most of the sledge stores were saved. +But the ponies had to be left that night with feed bags to comfort them. +Next day the three ponies had drifted to a more favourable spot farther +to the south-west. Here the rescue party busily set to work and cut out +a path up the face of the Barrier. Nobby was jumped from floe to floe, +and at length reached the firm ice of the Barrier. But the other two +ponies were weaker. The second jumped short, and though he managed to +scramble on to the floe again, he was too cold and weak to stand, and +fell into the water again. So, too, the third pony. All round were +eighteen killer-whales waiting for the end. To save them from a worse +death their owners pole-axed them as they feebly struggled in the icy +waters of the Sound. + +[The tracks on the breaking edge of the Barrier were seen by us on the +11th March, just before the blizzard caught us and held us up two days.] + +There were now again sixteen men in the old hut, and sleeping quarters +were arranged as follows. Scott, Evans, Taylor, Debenham, Wright, and +Forde slept in the West End; Wilson, Meares, Bowers, and Garrard in +Virtue Villa; while Gran, Taff Evans, Keohane, and Crean lay around the +stove. + +[Illustration: + + BOWERS’ PARTY ADRIFT ON THE SEA-ICE. + + From a drawing by D. Low. +] + +With so many human furnaces at work, the temperature inside the hut rose +to 46° F. on one occasion. As a natural result, our ceiling dripped +abominably. We laid hands on all the empty tins about, and tied them on +strings to the ceiling under the more obnoxious drops! Very skilfully we +each tried to lie between two small cataracts, with the result that +boundary commissions were frequently necessary to decide on encroachment +into foreign territory! + +The activities of the geologists incited all the other officers +to emulation. Bowers was the most indefatigable of these +“pseudo-scientists,” and was always bringing some huge specimen along to +Debenham or myself. “Here you are,” Birdie would say of a particularly +uninteresting block, “here’s a gabbroid nodule impaled in basalt with +felspar and olivine rampant.” + +The sun was giving us his farewell before winter. Very beautiful were +the sunset tints; and on the 25th I wrote: “Over Mt. Discovery are bands +of stratus, across a black sky, while in the foreground are pools in +thin ice looking like bog lands. To the south the sky shows +orange-yellow to white tints; to the north, beautiful lemon-green +verging into grey and yellow on the east. To the west, grey-green, with +a bright orange band against which stands the purple line of Mount +Lister. D—— fine, only I’d rather have two feet of solid sea-ice, and no +lemon-green reflections in the pools!” + +Later in the day, Wilson gave Oates and myself a talk on tone-values. At +6 p.m. the landscape was rosy pink everywhere where the sun glanced on +the snow-fields, salmon to buff colour on the open water, and on the +newly freezing sea iridescent like tar. The shadow of Brown Island was +lemon-green, changing to purple on Mount Discovery—while for a few +minutes our own shadows were the most vivid bright blue! + +It is impossible to imagine how striking if evanescent these colours +were, and as possibly some critics believe that Wilson’s sketches erred +on the bright side, I have here copied my notes made on the spot, while +Dr. Bill was drawing his sketches. + +Next morning I was cook with Wright and Titus Oates. I lit the blubber +lamp and a candle while Oates set the fire going. Some chips and a page +or two of the _Quiver_ rubbed in blubber started it that morning. It was +then only necessary to put on a fid of fresh blubber from the tin +alongside, about the size of a bath bun. The blubber sizzled merrily on +the grid, a big hot flame sprang up and licked the blubber and melted +fresh supplies, and soon the stove was going strong. The hoosh was a +porridge-biscuit dish with a few bits of seal in for luck. After +breakfast I washed up the pots and cleaned the cookers. + +[Illustration: The Sackcloth Helmet. 29·3·11] + +Captain Oates apparently had a Spartan objection to our comfortable +clothing. I shall have something to say about his canvas trousers, but +his objection to our helmets resulted in a Dutch sackcloth affair which +was designed and made in the old Discovery Hut. + +About this time Debenham was discovered to be an expert cook, and +thenceforward presided over the culinary mysteries. His speciality was a +confection known as “chupatties.” These were a kind of unleavened +currant scone, made of flour and biscuit-dust and some cornflour. We +used to have about four to a man, so that sixty-four of these took some +making. + +Some of our fireside arguments were quite lengthy. I raised the question +of city design, advocating the cobweb pattern. I found that Wilson +agreed with me, while Scott and Wright took the opposite view. Belfast +and American cities, Paris, Melbourne, London, and even unborn Canberra +(the Australian capital) were dragged into the debate. After it was well +started we drew back and enjoyed the “cag” between Dr. Bill and the +Owner, each backing his own views with great pertinacity! On another +evening we had the oft-arising problem as to whether Lord Kelvin was a +Thompson or a Thomson, and I won a stick of chocolate through chancing +on the right spelling. + +Towards the end of March the ice in the bay by the hut commenced to +freeze. On the 28th Wright was lowered on to the Bay and found the ice +three to four inches thick, so that we began to have hopes of getting to +our own headquarters in a week. Dr. Bill and Birdie made a remarkable +feast which they called seal-rissole. We indulged largely and—probably +in consequence—vivid dreams were retailed next morning. + +There is nothing so boring as dreams, I am aware, but I am going to +quote my diary! “I was back in a suburb of Sydney, and in the distance +saw an acquaintance of mine (H——). He moved away hurriedly. I caught him +up, and told him I was really in Antarctica, but wanted him to note the +time when I astrally visited Sydney. I remembered his name was Rupert. +Guess this was the effect of the rissoles.” + +[Illustration: Blubber-Lamp made from tin matchbox 22·3·11] + +Every evening before sleeping, Scott, Wilson, Debenham, and I had some +sort of a scientific discussion, usually on a local geological +problem—such as the origin of Castle Rock—for many such confronted us. + +For these evening occupations we used home-made blubber lamps. A +favourite make was based on a tin matchbox. Two ordinary wax matches +served as wicks. As usual with blubber, the black oil leaked everywhere. + +On the 31st Wright and I found that Discovery Harbour had 7½ inches of +ice over its surface. The ice looked just like cocoanut ice and was no +harder, but was very elastic and supported us safely. We walked across +to Observation Hill, and saw a seal near the shore. I wrote, “Charles +smiled at him, and as he fainted I pole-axed him. He wriggled twice or +so and then died.” We climbed up and over the Gap, and got down on the +east side. Then we walked two miles to Pram Point. Here the ice varied +somewhat. In places huge splashes of slush had frozen; in others ribbons +eight inches thick had overridden each other. All seemed bumped up by +swinging against the fixed ice-foot. Black wedges of clear ice grew out +into the water channels, and the edges of the latter were often warped +and twisted. In Pram Bay there were numerous seals; one barked or +growled, another opened his jaws nearly 180°, and his tongue shivered at +us. A third gurgled musically, but only on one note. Later I saw one +menacing his neighbour and barking at him. + +About 200 yards inland was a cache where we had seven seal carcases +ready for consumption. + +As we returned I found some small fish, about eight inches long +(_Notothenia_) buried in the ice, and three smaller fry lying on the +surface. The stakes left by Ferrar in the ice across the Gap still +seemed to be in line, so that there had been no movement of the ice +since 1903. On reaching the hut we reprimanded Dr. Bill and Bowers for +collecting “gabbroid nodules,” etc., when their zoological tastes should +have sent them fishing. After which we exhibited the frozen sprats. + +I began the month of April by helping Bowers as cook. I write: “At 7.15 +threw back sleeping-bag after uncoiling my jersey from my neck. Put on +coat and finnesko, and was fully dressed. Curious that one feels no +worse for lack of a wash, bath or change, for over two months.” + +We had a tasty bovril hoosh, flavoured by some of the treasure trove. +Debenham and Wright dived deeply into their pots and brought up chaff. +(Birdie’s joke for April 1st!) The seal we had killed was declared to be +suffering from liver complaint, and weak heart. Hence his susceptibility +to sudden shock! Anyhow the dogs ate all but the flippers and seemed +none the worse. + +Wright and I went further south on our next walk, right beyond Cape +Armitage. I took to finnesko finally, for conduction along a big nail in +the leather boots had frostbitten my toe, and for months afterwards I +had little sensation in it. + +“We saw an emperor penguin walking towards us with a rolling gait. He +retreated as we individually surrounded him, then bolted on his belly +with snaky neck vibrating amid squawks. He turned on Wright, who killed +him with two whacks on the neck and two picks in the brain. I pithed him +with my penknife. Unfortunately he bled muchly and spoiled his yellow +tie, so we dug a little pit and laid his head therein, to save the +plumage.” + +Off the end of the Cape were many open pools of water, but I crossed +between easily enough. The water was washing across, and had perhaps +thickened the band of ice. Here I found many of the fish on the ice +surface. Probably they were chased into the mushy ice by seals, and +froze fast. I proceeded round to the east, and then climbed Observation +Hill, finding Dr. Bill on the top busily sketching. + +As the sun sank below the stratus cloud the golden beams shone past the +Hut and showed up beautifully on the snowy surface of the Sound. We saw +this tawny area gradually advance to the fixed ice and give it a +rose-pink flush. The deep purplish shadow from Hut Point enchanted Dr. +Bill, who made a complete sketch in about ten minutes. The sun’s low +shadows on the slight corrugations of the ice and the elongated shadows +of Wright with the sledge were very striking. + +Later Scott returned and complimented us on getting round the Cape +safely; in fact, he said that he was glad there were pioneers ahead when +he tackled it! + +On the 2nd Scott reported the first aurora at 3 a.m. He said it extended +to within ten degrees of the zenith from the south, was of a reddish hue +and like a curtain with two folds. Birdie saw it later and said he +thought it was a peculiar cirrus cloud! So I felt that the colours could +not have been very brilliant. + +Scott, Oates, and myself never aspired to be considered cooks, but it +was pleasing to see the anxiety of the others to earn a _cordon bleu_! +But I was quite willing to help if others shouldered the ensuing blame! +For instance, at lunch on this particular day Wright and I made what he +christened a “cheese sponge.” “We stirred it about an hour in hopes of +getting it to ‘jell,’ but it remained obdurately granular. However, by +carving off lumps of our butter it went down O.K. But a quarter of a +pound of butter for sixteen men is little enough!” + +Lieutenant Evans started to cut a road down to the bay ice through the +twelve-foot ice cliff. We dumped the ice from the excavation on to the +bay ice, hoping to build up a ramp. The ice was in layers alternating +with snow, the former probably representing spray-cemented snow. Soon +the sea-ice cracked under the weight of our delta, and the latter sank +more and more. It was like filling the ocean, and at 7 p.m. only a few +jagged blocks showed where we had piled all our excavated material. + +We had some of our penguin for supper. He weighed 92 lbs., and was about +a record. + +The “pseudo-scientists” were keen collectors. Some augite crystals being +found on the side of Observation Hill—we geologists did not strain our +consciences much by assuring them that they were gems! As a matter of +fact, I once wore an augite as a stud; but it would only appeal to a +geologist. However, Birdie and Cherry spent several hours crawling up +the slopes of the hill. The augites took much finding, for they were +rarely half an inch long. “Dry-blowing” and scraping in the snow and +ashy rock with frozen fingers and colder toes was the method of work. +Some of the specimens picked out of a red tuff showed very pretty +crystal faces. But the mineral is nearly black and rather brittle, so +that their value is purely scientific. + +One morning we were promised a new dish of “whales on toast” by the +indefatigable chefs. These were biscuits fried in butter and crowned +with two sardines. Unfortunately they all got burnt, and the many +requests for biscuits _au naturel_ disconcerted Birdie! In the evening +Evans and Wright laboured long at a dish which they finally labelled +“glue” in disgust, though they had hoped it would turn out a stew. So +Meares enlivened the gloom by a yarn. “A man went into a shop in our +town and took off an article on approval. Unfortunately he left no name. +The assistant said, ‘Whom shall we charge it to?’ The proprietor said, +‘Put it down on every one’s bill, and we’ll soon find out who didn’t +take it.’” Meares stopped, and we asked, “Well, how did it work?” “Oh, +the last I heard, forty of them had paid for it!” + +On the 7th, Scott asked if any one wanted a walk round the sea-ice to +Castle Rock. Atkinson and I volunteered, and we got on our crampons and +_steig-eisen_, and I took an ice-axe. We went down to the sea-ice over +the ice cliff, using the old hawser left there in 1903. The ice was +about four and a half inches thick, and Scott tested its bearing +strength by the simple method of jumping on it hard. It bent +considerably, and water gurgled up through the holes, but this new ice +is fairly tough. + +The surface was mottled, due to its being largely composed of cemented +pancake ice. The ice was mushy, and overriding was very common. +Occasional retreats and breaks led to leads of open water. Scott pointed +out to us where Vince was lost in 1903 on the icy slopes to the south of +Castle Rock. We discussed what a man should do if he fell into the sea +and was rescued, and Scott said the only thing was to keep on the move. + +[Illustration: + + Testing the sea-ice off Castle Rock, April 7, 1911. Atkinson, Scott, + and Taylor. +] + +We crossed several “leads” of black ice, which I tested first with the +ice-axe. “I chipped at the next and saw that the ice was more than an +inch thick, so I boldly ambled across. I made a long step and one leg +gaily went through and the other followed, but I hung by my arms fairly +comfortably. Luckily I had an ice-axe. Atkinson stretched out his +ski-stick, but I drove the pick in and pulled over to the further firm +ice and managed to slide out, while Scott was getting over further to +the north. The water was not cold, and I didn’t feel excited at all. I +went in up to the armpits and was dripping, but only my toes were cold. +Scott said he was just going to tell me not to try there; and I told him +the practical experience should balance the foolishness!” Cherry +returned with me to the Hut about two miles south. Luckily there was no +wind, or twenty-four degrees of frost would have been serious. My +notebook was well inside my wind clothes, and the chronometer was not +hurt at all. + +That evening there was a strong blizzard, and every vestige of ice blew +out to the Ross Sea. It was lucky that the wind did not spring up six +hours later, for Scott had decided to start off this very morning for +Cape Evans _viâ_ the sea-ice. As a result he determined to try a land +route along the promontory to Hutton Cliffs, and so reach sea-ice where +it was more land-locked and protected by Glacier Tongue. + +[Illustration: From Castle Rock to Cape Evans 9–14–11] + +Gran and I went off to Castle Rock to see what the ice looked like in +the bays to the north. We arrived at the base of this 200 feet crag +about 1 p.m., and decided to climb it. Gran was wearing boots and so +could get a grip, but I had on fur finnesko and found it a tough job. In +fact, Gran had to spread-eagle himself on the face of the cliff, and I +got up by climbing up him, like a human ladder. + +This old landmark is 1340 feet high, and is built up of volcanic +agglomerate. There is an almost sheer drop of 1200 feet on the west; but +the top is nearly flat and offers a fine view. I could see a little +patch of sea-ice in the bay near Hutton Cliffs, but north of Glacier +Tongue the sun was in our eyes and we could not see if ice or water lay +between the Tongue and Cape Evans. + +[Illustration: + + OVER THE HUTTON CLIFFS TO TEST THE SEA-ICE. + + From a drawing by D. Low. +] + +On the 11th of April nine of us started for our own headquarters, +leaving Wilson in charge of a party to bring over the dogs and two +ponies. [The track is shown on the map, p. 88.] + +“The ‘relics’ helped us up the two snow slopes. Birdie and Bill arranged +signals with fireballs at 10 p.m. on the first clear night in the next +three. Dr. Bill had an understanding with Scott that he should not move +with the ponies and dogs until the sea-ice had stood a blizzard. We +passed Castle Rock and were going strong at noon. I had been leading, +giving Scott my shoulder, but here he shortened my rope and I pulled +just behind him. Beyond Castle Rock all the land is untraversed. We kept +for one mile along a steep snow slope, seeing no crevasses, and easily +reached the flat top of the promontory. After about four miles we +approached Hutton Cliffs and could see patches of blue ice on the slopes +ahead. Soon we met some crevasses, and both of us fell into small ones. +We got to a ridge of boulders which showed where we were to get down to +the bay ice, if anywhere. + +“Quite suddenly it began to drift heavily from the south, and we had to +put up the tents and camp. We had some tea and then prospected for a +route to the cliff edge. There were huge crevasses zigzagging across the +blue ice below us, but when the drift stopped we found a good track and +soon reached the cliff edge. Here it was thirty feet high with snow +whirling over on to the bay ice. Further south it was a little lower, +and here Scott lowered me on to some fallen blocks on the sea-ice. Then +Evans, Wright, and Bowers followed, and we guided the sledge down, fully +loaded, without difficulty. Two bamboos were stuck in and the rope +passed round. Crean arranged this, and Scott came last, being lowered +from below. + +“We left the Hutton Cliffs about 5 p.m. and pulled north over two miles +of soft sea-ice to Glacier Tongue. We anticipated trouble climbing the +Tongue, but found a spot where its edge was only ten feet high. Evans +and I were lifted up, and in ten minutes both sledges and men were on +the Tongue. It was good fun crossing the Tongue, for there were numerous +crevasses to jump, none of which was particularly risky, though Evans +fell into one. We camped on the north side about 6.45. It was pretty +dark, but after some tea Scott decided to push on for the remaining five +miles. + +“We had to steer across the bay ice by observing a star, for it began to +grow thick near the surface. I tested the ice with my axe fairly +frequently. We pulled all we knew, for occasionally our only beacon (the +star) was almost obscured. About 10 p.m. a black patch showed up, which +we guessed must be Little Razorback Island. Here Scott decided to camp. +We had a difficult job gathering mushy ice to weigh the tent-flaps, but +all turned in on the wet ice before midnight.” + +[Illustration: + + The two tents on the ice-shelf at Little Razorback Isle, April 12, + 1911 (looking south). +] + +I don’t think many of us enjoyed the situation. We were camped on new +ice and had not the faintest idea how far off the open water lay, and we +had practically no food with us. Next morning, before it was properly +light, a blizzard came up to add to our discomfort. We could not see +Cape Evans or tell whether there was ice or sea in the intervening two +miles. + +I climbed up the Razorback, cutting steps up the soft ashy rock with my +bowie knife. Bowers and I explored an ice-ledge on the south side of +this little islet. On reporting to Scott he inspected it, and in the +afternoon we shifted camp up on to the ledge, whence we could not drift +out to sea if the blizzard increased. + +“I snoozed about an hour during the night, pulled the flaps of my bag +tight, and apart from frozen toes—partly owing to my home-made sealskin +finnesko being too tight—and shivers in the back, and the soppy nature +of all my clothing, I was pretty comfortable! + +“We roused at 7 a.m., and I had to wait half an hour before my fur mits +thawed out enough to be wearable. We finished up our pemmican and +biscuits. Birdie was cook, and as usual took too little for himself, and +made a fuss about filling up his own pot. + +“We packed up at 8.15, and found that the wind helped us materially. The +ice seemed firmer here, and near Inaccessible Island we crossed tracks +and a silk line, evidently due to Simpson’s balloon experiments. We +rounded Cape Evans and saw the open water less than a mile off, so that +we were pretty close to it at Razorback. + +“Another hundred yards and we saw the hut with two men moving about. We +went on silently (by order), and saw Lashley stand up, look our way and +stand rigid. Then he spoke to Anton (who phlegmatically took no notice) +and bolted into the hut. Soon they came streaming out in all sorts of +overcoats, etc., Demetri and Lashley leading, Day next, Ponting, Anton, +Simpson, and Hooper!” + +Nelson was asleep, and Clissold too interested in some cooking! + +We learnt that all had gone well except that one pony (Hackenschmidt) +had died of inanition and a bullet! + +We pulled on, and Birdie fell into the broad tide crack. I got across +safely with the ice-axe and so to the hut. + +I noticed the fine door-knobs, and the wooden number [Illustration: 1] +on our front door. The kitchen looked O.K. with bright tins and +acetylene lighting, and all else was much about the same. + + + _Postscript_ (that evening). + +“Here am I in the hut, using my fountain-pen again after twelve weeks +without refilling—only it’s made a blob! It is midnight and I lie in my +bunk. ‘Marie’ Nelson is taking meteorological readings, and remarks that +the Skua Gull (_i.e._ G.T.) has resumed his predatory habits. The others +are sleeping except Ponting, from whom I got my candle. But everything +feels too warm and clean for sleep! Clocks are ticking everywhere!” + + + + + V + IN WINTER QUARTERS WITH CAPTAIN SCOTT + + APRIL–NOVEMBER, 1911 + + +[Illustration: + + Plan of hut, 1911, showing nicknames and bunks of Explorers. +] + + + + + IN WINTER QUARTERS WITH CAPTAIN SCOTT + + +After our return from the summer’s sledging a new phase of Antarctic +life began. For the next seven months we were practically confined to +Cape Evans, and often to the hut itself. + +During our “habitation enforced” it was rare for any man to be addressed +by the name inherited from his parents or chosen by his godfathers and +godmothers! The nicknames of the fifteen of the afterguard had by this +time become standardized, and I think merit a little attention. + +Captain Scott was invariably known as _The Owner_, a naval term always +applied to the captain of a warship. Dr. Wilson (baptized Edward Adrian) +was always known as _Bill_. _Doctor Bill_ at first, _Uncle Bill_ later, +as one grew to rely on him more and more. Lieutenant Evans had four +pre-initials, but was always called _Teddy_, which eminently suited his +cheery frame of mind. Dr. Simpson was early caricatured as _Sunny Jim_ +by Lillie, and soon every one, including our leader, called him nothing +else. Captain Oates was _Titus_ to all of us, except to Bowers, who +called him _Farmer Hayseed_, while Captain Scott usually referred to him +as _Soldier_. Ponting was _Ponko_, and his chief aim in life (to get us +to pose for him in all sorts of uncomfortable places) is perpetuated in +the verb “to pont.” Nelson was _Bronte_ naturally, and more obscurely +_Marie_ from some theatrical star met with in his varied career. Bowers +was _Birdie_, from his outstanding features and Titian crest. Atkinson +was shortened to _Atch_, or at times _Jane_. We were short of female +society—which lack also accounts for _Jessie_ Debenham as an alternative +to _Deb_. Cherry-Garrard was always _Cherry_—though an affectionate +variation was _Cheery Blackguard_, while the seamen—baulking at the +hyphen—called him Mr. Gerard! Our Canadian Imperialist, Charles Wright, +bore with equanimity the name of _Cousin Silas_, though perhaps +_Carolus_ and _Tranter_ (_Toronto_) were more to his taste. _Bernardo_ +Day and _Trigger_ (Tryggve) Gran were less remarkable ekenames. I gave +up counting my own. _McCormick_ (Skua—alluding to the rapid +disappearance of some apricots), _Keir-Hardy_, _Sharn-Gatch_, and _Old +Griff_ were but a few. + +Before we had time to change into semi-civilized garb the indefatigable +Ponting had us outside to “pont” for him. Luckily there were no melting +icicles available, and he was content to get us standing near the +sledges. Some of the others had already shaved off their beards, much to +Ponting’s disgust; but mine was so rudely criticised that I kept it most +of the winter to show _my_ opinion of it! I assisted Ponting to the best +of my ability by adding a touch of verisimilitude to Debenham’s +photograph, and threw some snow at him at the critical moment; but most +of us looked such pirates, that there was no need for any further touch +of Antarctica about us. + +I spent the day sorting gear, “... and about 1 p.m. I had a gorgeous +bath—the first for three months. Funny thing, no effect from no wash, no +change, no hair brush, etc.” + +I suppose the cold accounts for no ill consequences, but I have ever +since felt more sympathy for the Southern European peasants, for their +ablutions are equally simple; they also do without a lot of impedimenta, +and are equally healthy! + +Ponting took his plates off to the dark room, and submitted proofs next +day! “Debenham says he looks just like an aboriginal—and far be it from +me to contradict him.” Captain Scott and Seaman Evans seemed to develop +an Irish appearance, while I scorn to repeat the comments on my +portrait. + +On Sunday afternoon I had a stroll with Nelson, who told me how the nine +at the hut had spent the time. Dr. Simpson was in charge, and had +converted the newly built hut into a palace of mystery. In his corner to +the south-east a small Gardiner oil-engine was clacking away. This was +used primarily, in conjunction with a dynamo, to charge accumulators for +his electrical recording instruments. Mysterious clicks and gasps and +ticking galore warned us that chronographs and other wild fowl, to be +described later, were brooding over meteorology yet _in ovo_. Ponting +had “raked in every little bit” available, including some magnificent +studies of surf breaking on the ice-foot. Day and Nelson roused our +envious admiration chiefly by the condition of their common cubicle. No +old beams from the stable framed their bunks! They were supported by +carved and polished standards, encased in veneer (of venesta casing); +and below were some fine specimens of joinery in the shape of two +capacious drawers! + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by H. G. Ponting._] + + CAPTAIN SCOTT WEARING THE WALLET IN WHICH HE CARRIED HIS SLEDGING + JOURNALS. +] + +Day had equipped the hut with acetylene. The generator occupied a corner +of the enclosed porch, where one could hear it gurgling as one entered +the hut. If the outer door were not shut properly the fact was made +evident by the dimming of the light! For the water in the generator soon +froze if a blast of −40° struck it from the outer darkness. We were +prohibited from carrying candles through the porch into the verandah +storeroom for fear of explosion. + +Nelson and I initiated the survey of Cape Evans on that stroll. The +lakes had diminished greatly; not by ordinary evaporation, but through +the removal of ice particles by the process of ablation. The margin of +the lake ice was fringed by “blobs” of ice united into a lacework, and +day by day one could see this fringe vanishing. It was curious that the +small animalcule (_Flagellata_, etc.) should in some cases belong to the +same genera as in English ponds! + +Cape Evans is a low promontory of triangular shape. Its average height +is only about twenty-five feet above the sea, though Windvane Hill rises +to sixty-five feet. The southwestern portion consists of rocky ridges of +kenyte with steep cliffs adjoining the sea, but to the north-east is a +gravelly plain surrounding Skua Lake. Quite abruptly on the east and +about half a mile from the western extremity, rises a steep bank of +gravel (the Ramp) to a height of 150 feet. A few hundred yards of slope +studded with quaint cones of rubble brought one to the edge of the great +sheet of glacier ice which covers the whole western side of Mount +Erebus. This was our domain, and to this cape we were practically +confined during the ensuing six months (see Map No. 4). + +Patches of ice covered portions of the cape, but the rest of the surface +consisted for the most part of kenyte gravel with ridges and bosses of +solid lava (kenyte) projecting through it, especially to the south-west. +These dark lavas undoubtedly represented an earlier offshoot from the +volcano of Erebus, probably a subterranean flow; while careful mapping +later on showed us that the little sheets of ice were not haphazard, but +were “glacierets” fed by blizzard snowdrifts. + +The most ingenious apparatus in the hut was due to Clissold the cook. +This was an electrical device to tell him when the “bread was riz.” He +used to make the dough in the galley and place it in a big pot, +puncheon, or pan. This was supported on a little trolley and stood at +his bedside. The dough mixed, Clissold turned into bed, and left the +rest to the yeast cells. + +When the dough rose sufficiently it pushed up a disc which overbalanced +a gutter. Down this ran a lead ball which made contact and rang a bell! +Further, the bell actuated a pulley and wire and made another contact +whereby a red light appeared at intervals above his head! All this +apparatus was made in the hut, and we never found out where certain of +the “works” were hidden. Anyhow the bread was very satisfactory. + +[Illustration: The Electrical Breadmaker 17.4.11] + +On the 17th April Scott took a party back by the same route to the +Discovery Hut. Scott, Bowers, and Crean returned there, accompanied by +Day, Nelson, Lashley, Hooper, and Demetri. Debenham and I went in charge +of two ponies who were to pull the sledges as far as possible. + +There was a fine moon, so that it was quite light at 8.15 a.m. We +crossed several cracks, and I tested the ice with an axe. A moderate +wind was blowing from the north—always a safe direction, for the +blizzards invariably came from the south. The surface had improved +greatly in the last few days, and the ponies had no difficulty in +pulling along at about four miles an hour. + +Erebus was clouded, but occasionally we could see a red glow when the +mists dispersed. Rarely was there so much sign of _heat_ visible, though +the steam banner often spread out a hundred miles. + +[Illustration: + + Changes in wind direction, March 17, 1911. +] + +Opposite Turk’s Head (six miles south) the wind changed to a west breeze +and then lulled, but a little further, near Glacier Tongue, there was +quite a strong southerly, and we could see the drift sweeping over the +promontory above Hutton Cliffs. + +Here Scott sent the ponies back in our charge. The others marched on, +and had a cold, rough time reaching the Discovery Hut. Their +difficulties in climbing the ice rampart at Hutton Cliffs in the teeth +of a smart blizzard is well shown in one of Dr. Bill’s sketches in the +_South Polar Times_. + +A small villa had been erected in our absence, to carry the +magnetometers. This was built of asbestos or similar material, and held +together by brass nails. It also formed a _camera obscura_ for +meteorological purposes. A lens in the roof projects the clouds on to a +sheet of squared paper. This sheet is rotated until the clouds appear to +move along a set of lines, and by comparing this with a compass the +direction of their movement is obtained accurately and quickly. + +That evening I helped to festoon the hut with telephone wires. While so +engaged I saw my first aurora, and it did not impress me. “Like a huge +broad cirrus cloud right across the sky from W.N.W. to E.S.E. No colour +or movement, and it only lasted five minutes.” + +[Illustration: + + A sketch showing the balloon unwinding the black silk threads from the + two conical reels. +] + +Wright and I assisted Simpson to send up a _ballon sonde_. This seemed a +complicated business at first. We had to carry out a queer theodolite +with the eyepiece inserted at right angles to the telescope at the side; +and a large tank for generating the hydrogen; and the inner tube of a +bicycle tyre—and various reels of silk, etc., etc.; not to mention a +small tissue-like deflated balloon of red gutta-percha. + +The tank was filled from a convenient tide crack in the sea-ice, and +then Charles filled the cycle-tube with calcium hydride. This compound +is analogous to carbide, but gives off hydrogen instead of acetylene. He +attached it to the top of the generator, and squeezed it to push the +lumps of hydride into the water. The balloon was attached to an outlet +pipe, and gradually lost its dejected appearance and became a red sphere +of some two feet diameter. + +In about ten minutes the balloon was inflated. This was merely a test, +and after tying a piece of silver paper on the balloon it was set free +and rose rapidly. With the theodolite the vertical and horizontal angles +could be plotted, and thus the path of the balloon charted +approximately. + +The sun was setting (at 3 p.m.) while we were doing this, and gave a +yellow glow to the steam-cloud on Erebus, which was drifting to the +south-east. When the balloon was about 4000 feet up we could follow the +flashing paper, and saw that here the air currents were opposed to the +direction of the steam-cloud at 13,000 feet elevation. + +[Illustration: + + SIMPSON SENDING UP A “BALLON SONDE,” Nov. 12, 1911. + + The meteorograph stands on the box. Inside the latter are the two + conical reels of silk. In the background is the magnetic hut, the + Grotto Glacier and Vane Hill. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE EAST CORNER OF THE HUT SHOWING THE EDDY TRENCH SCOOPED OUT BY + BLIZZARDS ON THE WINDWARD SIDE OF THE HUT, SEPT. 14, 1911. + + The stores annexe appears just on Clissold’s right, and the “weather + cupboard” on the right of the picture. +] + +The next afternoon there was a furious blizzard of fifty miles an hour, +and a temperature of −7°. We kept to the hut, and made a start at winter +occupations. I was busy writing a narrative of the western journey for +Captain Scott. In this I proposed to discuss the physiography in some +detail. When I had written twenty pages on the _first_ day and a half, I +wondered if the “Owner” would live through a report 840 pages long! +Luckily the rule of three responsible for this forecast did not hold +throughout! + +Inside the hut the temperature was +47°. This was not exactly hot, and +poor Ponting was delighted when some of the new-comers advocated +lighting the small stove near his dark room. He said that developing +photographs with water down to 47° was not the pleasantest job on earth. +The blizzards hit his side of the hut, so that the inside of the dark +room was festooned with icicles, giving it a most picturesque but +uncomfortable appearance. + +Things were getting straight in our cubicle. Our floor space was about +eight feet by eight. We built a small table opposite the door and put +shelves over this. Gran occupied a bunk over mine, and the legs of his +wire bedstead hung over my head and feet, and caused many bruises at +first. Debenham’s bunk was raised six feet off the ground, and was +supported on two stout wooden cylinders, on which the linoleum had been +rolled. He climbed into it by a primitive ladder. His sea-chest was +under the table, while mine half blocked the doorway. + +On the rubbish-heap outside I found a small tin which served as my +wash-basin. In this I kept a sponge, and normally it stood on my chest +below Debenham’s bunk. We were able to get about half a tea-cup of water +if we found the cook in a good humour, so that it was rather a dry rub. + +Secretly I was rather proud of my morning wash, but it did not seem to +improve my appearance. I soon discovered the reason. Watching Debenham +one morning before I arose, I saw him finish his ante-breakfast pipe and +casually knock it on the edge of his bunk. The ash obeyed the laws of +gravity, and fell into my sponge with great accuracy, and as if it were +accustomed to do so! + +When the chest was thereafter freed from my ablutions, it was seized by +Debenham as a petrological laboratory. For hours he might be observed +rubbing down fragments of rocks on a glass plate with carborundum +powder. + +He had a microscope, and was able to examine the many thin sections thus +produced without awaiting his return to civilization. It is most +interesting to see a dark rock gradually becoming transparent as the +section gets thinner. First the quartz and felspar show up like clear +and milky glass respectively. Then the green or brown colours of the +mica hornblende or augite appear, while the characteristic green fringes +to the clear olivine crystals or the absolute opacity of magnetite +define those minerals. And then under the polarized light of the +microscope even the colourless minerals show wonderful colours—from the +pale greys and yellows of quartz and felspar to the vivid blue and +purple of the olivine and pink and neutral tints of white mica. + +Thus Debenham classified the numerous rocks from the western mountains. +_Kenytes_ rich in lozenge crystals of a beautifully banded felspar; +_granites_ showing brown cleaved crystals of hornblende and mica among +the quartz grains and simple felspars; _basalts_ with numerous crystals +of olivine and magnetite in a felted mass of little felspar +laths—gneisses, granulites, etc., etc., each and all can be pigeon-holed +by picking out the relative proportions of the few minerals specified +above. + +By far the most interesting instrument in the hut—consulted by scientist +and layman alike—was the “blizzometer.” Such was the name we used for +“Dines Pressure-tube Anemometer.” We could all see a roll of paper on a +rotating drum, on which a pen was always scratching lines giving wind +velocity. But the expert could tell lots more. He could say not only how +heavy each individual gust had been during the past twenty-four hours, +but he could tell from the character of the graph whether the wind were +from the north or south, and, more awkward still, he could tell when the +night watchman had neglected his duty and let the inlet become choked +with drift! + +[Illustration: + + Copied from Simpson’s diagrams at his lecture in the hut, June 3, + 1911. +] + +You could not bluff Simpson or the blizzometer. The blizzard gave a +thick series of vertical lines, so close together that a broad ribbon +almost resulted. The north wind was never so strong, and the lines were +shorter and less close together. + +To understand the working of the blizzometer, let us accompany the night +watchman. He has been engaged on his diary, maybe, till nearly midnight, +when a complete set of observations are to be taken. He goes to the +blizzometer to see what particular virulence of blizzard he has to face, +and sees that the pen is motionless at the bottom of the paper—having +dropped down after tracing gusts of sixty miles an hour. The night +watchman feels depressed. He has to go and inspect thermometers and +barometers and various other -ometers, but had hoped he would be spared +“clearing the head” of the blizzometer. However, he wraps up well, and, +carrying an electric lamp, ventures out round the south of the hut. He +reads the thermometer at the most exposed corner, and then glances up to +the roof ridge and wonders whether he’ll be blown off or not. In a +sheltered nook he finds a brush of wires, and clutching this he climbs +up a ladder to the roof. He feels the hut vibrating under the blizzard, +and the drift shoots past him to the north. He clutches a metal tube +projecting two feet above the ridge, and proceeds to prod the wires into +its orifice, which faces the blizzard. A plug of drift snow breaks +loose, and the wind once more drives freely into the nozzle of the +blizzometer. It rushes down the tube into the hut and enters the base of +the instrument. Here it passes under and into a metal bell floating in +paraffin. The pressure raises this float, and of course raises a piston +attached to it above. The piston passes through a gland to the outside +and carries the pen at its upper end. Thus with every gust the piston +(and pen) rises and falls, and a record is made directly on the rotating +drum. The watchman warms his hands inside his jacket, and when feeling +has returned to them he trudges into the hut, and devoutly prays the +“head” will remain unchoked all night. + +At this period our hut interior looked neat but not gaudy. Later, the +continual tramping in of boots carrying snow and gravel, somewhat +detracted from the neatness; but luckily, in the absence of brilliant +illumination, no one was perturbed by the accumulation of “matter in the +wrong place” which soon collected in the corners. But one object in the +hut looked rather incongruous, and that was the Broadwood Pianola, lent +us by the Broadwood Company. It was intended to keep this on the ship, +but our unloading was done so successfully that some time could be +devoted to transhipping the pianola. By dint of dismantling the +wardroom—removing the stairs bodily—Rennick and his assistants managed +to hoist the pianola on deck, and so got it eventually into the hut. + +We were a strikingly unmusical crew. Ponting on the banjo and Nelson on +the mandolin were the best. No one but myself ever used the piano. I had +three pieces of music and speedily lost one—it was found under the +pianola buried in grime six months later,—so that there was rather a +sameness about my performance. I grieve to state that my two pieces +became less rather than more popular as winter advanced! + +However, I rather thought I might shine as a pianola player, and started +to practise as early as April. After listening for some time, my +scientific colleagues, who occupied bunks immediately back of the +pianola, were moved to remark, “For Heaven’s sake, Griff, give that a +miss, and let some one play who can keep time!” Perhaps I should have +persevered, but they could throw too straight, and I never attempted +pianola-playing again. + +On the 21st Scott returned from Hut Point, leaving Meares, Nelson, Day, +Forde, Keohane, Lashley, and Demetri in the 1902 hut with the ponies. + +They had had bad weather going—as I expected. Very thick drift hampered +them, and the new chums, especially Hooper, had been severely +frostbitten. The latter had two angry red sores on his neck where the +blizzard had caught him between his helmet and jersey. To climb the +cliff at Hutton Cliffs they had to empty a sledge. Crean and Lashley +held it up at arms’ length like a ladder, and Scott managed to climb up +it, and cut steps over the cornice. They reported that the others +expected to stay a fortnight more, and they augured badly for the +commissariat under Meares, because “he’s so very sparing with the +butter!” + +Ponting kindly developed my western negatives in his dark room. They +were no worse than I expected, being, however, all rather thin. Half a +dozen were broken, and I had improved on a common error by putting +_three_ on one plate. We had such a rush before starting our journey +that neither Debenham nor myself could test a single plate under +Antarctic conditions. It seems simple now, but we had many failures +before we gauged the best method. Previous Antarctickers had recommended +plates and not films. I now disagree with this advice _in toto_, at any +rate for sledging. We broke the plates. They scratched easily. Changing +them in our bags was an unmitigated nuisance and filled the dark slides +with hairs. Lastly, the glass plates weighed so much that they were +always left behind when we had to cut down weights. + +We had an idea that the quickest exposures would be advisable with +snowscapes. Ultimately we took most of them at half a second or +thereabouts! + +A typical scene would largely consist of a skyline of snow mountain +backed by a blue sky more or less covered by grey or white clouds. The +foreground was usually also snow with bluish shadows. Everything was +blue or white. There was little contrast, and owing to the photographic +value of _blue_ being almost the same as that of _white_, the resulting +photograph was of a dismal flatness and one could not distinguish land +from sky. + +Of course this pointed to yellow screens to cut out all blue and give it +the effect of black. We had much better success thereafter, but this +necessitated the slow exposures I have mentioned previously. + +My chief camera was a Zeiss Minimum Palmos equipped with all modern +features, taking telephoto pictures, stereoscopic, ¼ plate or panorams +(7½ inches long). It had a focal plane shutter calculated to give ¹⁄₁₅₀₀ +of a second; but the rubber shutter froze stiff, and my exposures were +largely made with a red handkerchief presented to me by Wright. + +At the east end of the hut Ponting was busy at a huge instrument which +looked like a cross between a barrel organ and a butter churn. It was +really a “washer” for cinema films. The films were wound on a cylinder, +placed in the washer, covered with a lid, and then rotated by a handle. +When this operation was finished we all admired Ponting’s ingenuity, for +he emptied out the water and placing a rug inside the hybrid, converted +it into a most comfortable lounge chair. + +The 23rd was Sunday, and Scott held Church service as usual. He and Dr. +Bill would consult as to the hymns, and Bill acted as choir-master. He +and Scott would test the key by striking several notes on the pianola +before service. Then just before we started the hymns Bill would sound +the note again and Scott would lead off with the first line. He had a +tenor voice and could sing much higher notes than most of us, and made +no ado about remarking, “We’ll have this a few notes higher,” between +the first and second verses. + +Early in the winter Dr. Atkinson started physical measurements, which +were always the source of much interest and amusement. They were taken +every alternate Sunday or Monday, and a list of the figures for those +present on the 24th April may be of interest. + +In addition to ordinary measurements, tests of the grip by the +dynamometer and breathing power by the spirometer were also recorded. In +the former an oval spring-frame is compressed and a rachet and cog +actuates a finger which indicates the grip. The spirometer consists of a +small enclosed vane which is blown round by the pressure due to one +expiration. + +I got the heights of the officers and recorded them on the wall of the +“owner’s” cubicle. The other measurements are given in the table +herewith. + + APRIL 24, 1911. + ──────────────┬───────────────────────────┬──────────────────────────────── + Name. │ Height. Weight. Dyn^r.│Waist. Arm. Chest. Spir^r. Calf. + ──────────────┼───────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────────── + │Ft. in. Stone lbs. │ Ins. Ins. Ins. Ins. + Captain Scott │ 5 9·05 11 6½ 320│ 30½ 14¼ 39¼ 294·5 15½ + Dr. Wilson │ 5 10·5 11 0 275│ 29 13 36 287·3 15¾ + Lieut. Bowers │ 5 4 12 0 280│ 32¾ 13⅛ 40 230 16⅛ + Cherry-Garrard│ 5 9½ 11 6 300│ 30 13¼ 36¾ 267 15 + Atkinson │ 5 6·75 11 0½ 270│ 30 13⅚ 36¾ 265 15¼ + Debenham │ 5 8·4 11 0½ 305│ 29½ 12½ 38¼ 261 13¾ + Taylor │ 5 10·6 11 7 350│33¾[7] 13 36½ 307 14¼ + Ponting │ 5 7·5 11 2½ 275│ 30¾ 14¼ 37 238·5 14¼ + Oates │ 5 9·35 12 4¾ 270│ 31½ 13½ 40 266 15¼ + Evans │ 5 6·85 11 13 350│ 34[7] 14 40½ 270 15¼ + Gran │ 5 11·05 13 3¾ 300│ 31½ 12¾ 40 335 15½ + Wright │ 5 10·8 11 12 345│ 30½ 12¾ 38 329 14¾ + Simpson │ 5 10·95 11 2¾ 260│ 30 13 37 308 13¼ + ──────────────┼───────────────────────────┴──────────────────────────────── + Day │ + Nelson │absent at Hut Point. + Mears │ + ──────────────┴──────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── + +Wilson, Bowers, Taylor, Ponting, Gran, and Meares were non-smokers, and +Wilson, Bowers, Taylor, and Simpson were teetotalers, though several of +the others swore off alcohol except on high days. + +At noon the northern and western sky was very beautiful, and I made an +effort to record the colours by means of chalks in my diary. The +dominant note was yellow shading to lemon-green in the west. Over the +western mountains was a rose-pink flush verging into lilac-grey through +salmon-red. To the north the band of salmon-red flanking the yellow +changed into slate-blue and pale blue overhead. The sun’s rays shone +gold through clouds over the Barne glacier, which exhibited magnificent +purple and blue shadows. + +It is sad to think that Bowers’ sailor-like criticism of the magnificent +study in reds and yellows was that it reminded him “of a mess of eggs +that had carried away,” meaning thereby a dish of fried eggs which had +been upset. + +Captain Scott instituted an aurora watch on this date. It was desirable +to discover if periods of great magnetic disturbance (as shown by the +magnetometers in the ice grotto) were accompanied by striking displays +of auroræ. There were fifteen officers in the hut, so that each man’s +turn came along about once a fortnight. He was to go out at every hour +and sketch the aurora if present, and of course attend to the +meteorological instruments, inspect the ponies, keep up the fire, and +generally mount guard from 8 p.m. to 8 a.m. A feast of sardines heated +on a bunsen burner was promised to the gallant watchman. + +The most imposing objects near the cape were the stranded icebergs. +Ponting and I walked across to them in the afternoon. First we reached +the Arch Berg just before it fell in and became the Castle Berg, the +Arch Berg, in which the major portion of the arch had fallen, leaving +only a narrow elevated strip uniting the two moieties of the berg. There +was a magnificent view, looking back at Erebus through this white arch, +and Ponting promised himself some particularly pleasing views when the +sun returned. + +[Illustration: + + CAPTAIN SCOTT’S AUTOGRAPH LIST FOR THE AURORA WATCH. +] + +Later we went over to the tunnel berg, which Wright and I surveyed in +January. It had also broken up, and had tilted up some twenty feet on +the southern side, owing to readjustments in the equilibrium. The once +vertical tunnel was now only half its length, and lying at an angle of +45° (see Fig. p. 97). + +Two seals were lying in the lee of a small berg near by. As we +approached they took to the mushy water immediately surrounding the +berg. They lay there on the sea-ice submerged by the pressure of the +berg above it, being just under water, and not worrying to get through +the ice into the Sound beneath. + +[Illustration: + + The Arch Berg just before it fell in and became the Castle Berg, April + 27, 1911. +] + +Later in the day a wandering Emperor was led in by a strap round his +neck, and I held his wings while Dr. Bill pithed him by a lancet in the +brain. + +“The last bunk has been added by Oates. He brought in some boards from +the stables—not needed now owing to the decease of the six ponies—and +has built an erection which presumably satisfies him. We all remark that +it is only held up by a small plank nailed to Bowers’ bunk; but Oates is +quite imperturbable as usual, and no whit disturbed by ribald remarks as +to a ‘deadfall’ trap baited with oats.” + +I had been reading Cherry’s set of Kipling, and there was such a clatter +of talk from our rivals across the hut that I publicly christened them +the Banderlog. Birdie retaliated by criticizing my pronunciation; but I +said I had no objection to calling them the “Bunderlohg,” and did so for +the rest of the winter. + +Debenham fixed up a terra-cotta curtain across our entrance which had +been presented by Ponting, and now we were hidden from the vulgar gaze, +though one frank critic said our sanctum looked like nothing so much as +an opium den. Day had run in a branch acetylene light, and Debenham had +stained everything stainable a dull red-brown with that beauteous dye, +“Condy’s Fluid.” Not to be outdone, Gran fixed red linen borders on the +shelves made from photographic “window” material, while I draped my bunk +with a deep blue hanging, which had originally formed part of the Sunday +tablecloth. We put down all captious remarks to jealousy; and the +“Ubdugs” were more secluded than any other coterie in the hut. + +Immediately north of Cape Evans the coast-line consisted of alternating +rocky crags and snowdrifts, but about half a mile away this gave place +to the vertical wall of the Barne Glacier. In places this ice barrier +rose to 180 feet, and was fissured with crevasses from which frequent +falls took place. These varying features were named later on, and +Wright, Debenham, and myself were never tired of examining the silt +bands, and included blocks, crevasses, debris slopes, etc., which +characterized the vicinity of High Cliff. + +The summer sun acting on some of the dark boulders included in the ice +face had etched them out until they appeared like giant gargoyles +projecting three or four feet beyond the general plane of the ice wall. +I made a rough pencil sketch of these “gargoyles,” and on my return to +the hut asked Dr. Bill to show me how to improve on this attempt. + +On the 27th an important institution was inaugurated, which was +afterwards called _Universitas Antarctica_. Captain Scott had sounded +Wilson, and then he called up Simpson and myself and asked us if we +would be willing to help carry out a scheme of winter lectures which he +had drawn out. + +We had a notice board on the side of the “Owner’s” cubicle, and on this +he appended the following notice:— + + + WINTER LECTURES. + + Some members of the community have very kindly consented to give a + series of lectures during the forthcoming winter, the programme of + which is attached hereto. + + These lectures are arranged for each week, to be given on Mondays, + Wednesdays, and Fridays, after the evening meal. + + It is proposed that each lecture should be followed by a discussion, + conducted on ordinary debating lines, and regulated by myself as + chairman. The time occupied by the lecturer will be about one hour. It + is not thought advisable to attempt to impose a time limit on the + subsequent discussion. Attendance at lectures is purely voluntary, and + neither the lecturer nor the chairman will feel aggrieved if any + person prefers to read a novel or otherwise employ his time. + + WINTER LECTURES AND DISCUSSIONS. + Subject. Lecturer. + Monday, May 1. Antarctic Birds E. A. Wilson. + Wednesday, „ 3. Halos and Auroras G. C. Simpson. + Friday, „ 5. Physiography G. Taylor. + + Monday, „ 8. Future Plans of the Expedition R. F. Scott. + Wednesday, „ 10. Illustrated Lecture H. G. Ponting. + Friday, „ 12. Mineralogy F. Debenham. + + Monday, „ 15. Penguins E. A. Wilson. + Wednesday, „ 17. Management of Horses L. E. G. Oates. + Friday, „ 19. Ice Problems C. Wright. + + Monday, „ 22. Evolution of Sledge Rations H. Bowers. + Wednesday, „ 24. Parasitology E. L. Atkinson. + Friday, „ 26. Biological Problems, I. E. Nelson. + + Monday, „ 29. Illustrated Lecture H. G. Ponting. + Wednesday, „ 31. Tips on Sketching E. A. Wilson. + Friday, June 2. Meteorological Instruments G. C. Simpson. + + Monday, „ 12. Surveying E. R. G. R. Evans. + Wednesday, „ 14. Volcanoes F. Debenham. + Friday, „ 16. Biology II. E. Nelson. + + _Also_ Motor Sledging (Day); Whales (Wilson); Midwinter Illustrated + Lecture (Ponting); Physiography II. (Taylor); Horses II. (Oates); + General Meteorology (Simpson); Beardmore Glacier (Taylor); + Radioactivity (Wright); Scurvy (Atkinson); Lantern Lecture + (Ponting). + + The Cape Crozier sledging party probably leaves on July 1. The + programme for the remainder of the winter will probably be regulated + according to this and other circumstances. It is hoped that the + lectures named below can be duly arranged, so that every one may + have an opportunity of hearing and discussing them. + + Central Asia (Meares); Magnetism (Simpson); Constitution of Matter + (Wright); Mineralogy II. (Debenham); Physiography III. (Taylor); + Biology III. (Nelson); Bacteriology (Atkinson); Evolution of Polar + Clothing (Bowers); Seals (E. A. Wilson); ending on September 1st. + + (Signed) R. F. SCOTT. + + Three lectures a week rather terrified some of the party, and it must + be admitted that when a lecture was “on,” there was not much room for + private reading! Anyhow, none of the officers ever absented + themselves. The seamen attended the first two, but most of them “gave + it a miss” thereafter, being probably intimidated by the title and + probable aridity of the third lecture, “Physiography, by Griffith + Taylor.” + + To the south of Cape Evans extended a long and narrow belt of cliff + hemmed in “betwixt the glacier and the deep sea,” which we called + Land’s End. This extended about a mile; and thereafter was a face of + glacier ice for four more miles similar to, but not so imposing as the + Barne Glacier face. + + Gran reported marvellous ice caves beyond Land’s End, so Ponting, he + and I went off to investigate them. When we reached the crevassed face + we found that the caves were really the exposed ends of crevasses. + However, this seemed much the best way of entering a crevasse, so we + crossed the mushy tide crack and passed through the narrow entrance + which was half blocked by a tree-like mass of ice. At the back a huge + Stonehenge pillar supported the roof, and outgrowths from the walls + were connected to the flat floor by huge stalactites. Sticking + promiscuously to the central column was a slender slab of ice, which + seemed to indicate that there had been no movement of late, or it + would have fallen. This was comforting, for Ponting made me “pont” in + the interior for several minutes while he tried a flashlight. Near by + I spotted a crack in the ice face covered by ice stalactites cemented + together. I chipped out an entrance till it resembled what + cave-explorers call a “fat man’s misery,” and then squeezed inside. It + was another pretty little cavern, and the colouring was very striking. + “The most magnificent blue light filtered in through the outer wall, + as vivid and glowing as it is possible to imagine.” + + Cherry-Garrard now began his most arduous winter employment as Editor + of the _South Polar Times_. He had brought down a typewriter, and + proposed to continue the Antarctic publication, of which two volumes + had already appeared in 1903–4, in Scott’s First Expedition. His + notice read as follows:— + + NOTICE. + + _South Polar Times._ + + THE first number of the _South Polar Times_ will be published on + Midwinter Day. + + All are asked to send in contributions signed anonymously, and to + place these contributions in the box under the looking-glass as soon + as possible. No contributions will be accepted for this number after + May 31st. + + A selection of these will be made for publication. + + It is not intended that the paper shall be too scientific. + Contributions may take the form of prose, poetry, or drawings. + Contributors whose writings lend themselves to illustration are + asked to consult with the Editor as soon as possible. + + The Editor, + _S.P.T._ + + A tin receptacle was nailed under the notice board, and labelled the + Editor’s Box, and Cherry set to work on his editorial pending the + avalanche of contributions. Three issues appeared in 1911, and one + other in 1912, but I shall describe _S.P.T._, as it was familiarly + termed, in greater detail later in the narrative. + + I commenced duty as night watchman on the 28th. I used to spend some + of the long hours in writing my journal, so that there is never any + dearth of notes of what happened about that period! + + I wrote on this occasion, “It is not the sinecure that I imagined. + Primarily I have to go out every hour and observe the auroræ. If they + are really on tap, I have to stay on Wind Vane Hill (a quarter of a + mile off) till they’re over! (I hope it stays overcast!) There was a + fine display at 9 p.m. Sunny Jim had taken me out to see the + spectroscope test. Behind Erebus it was going strong, and I could see + a bar in the yellow-green of the spectrum which is particular to + auroræ. I wrote the following in the log-book:— + + “’At 21.10 (= ten past nine) a fine display along the whole sky + behind the Erebus mass. At first isolated greyish streamers + reached over 8°; they had a reddish tinge, but were not bright + enough to give a bright line in the spectroscope. The whole + brightened until almost a continuous band of (almost yellowish) + light. It concentrated with a movement to the north, reminding one + of a caterpillar’s motion as the more vivid mass of light + undulated towards Erebus. At one moment it clotted into a globule + of light not unlike a meteor, pointing to the crater with a + streamer extending up, and slightly to the south. There was a + tendency for the more northern streamers to point the same way. At + 21.16 the display was over. There was perceptible orange and + traces of purple (_fide_ E. A. Wilson) in the borders. During the + maximum, the streamers were over 20° from the horizon.’ + + “Clissold and Birdie retain me to keep the fire going in the galley. I + put coal on twice (say at 2 and 4 a.m.) and rake out the ashes at 6 + a.m. Wake the cook (Clissold) at 6.30. Wright says look to the + acetylene apparatus. If it gets below 32° F. in the porch, open the + inner door and let in a whiff to the mess deck! If the drum rises + three feet and there’s risk of explosion, pump out the water, if vice + versa dump in some water, for the bell won’t work. Teddy Evans is to + be waked at 7 and Sunny Jim at 4 and 7.30. + + “I intend to have a bath when Scott and Evans turn in. The former is + reading and the latter plotting Inaccessible Island—a scandalous + proceeding at 12.30 a.m.! For my bath I have to get ice from the old + tin bath outside and replenish the galley boiler. I tried to get + tinned fruit for my 4 a.m. repast instead of sardines, but it was no + go! I can boil water on the little acetylene bunsen, if it’s worth + doing.” + + _Later._—“I have sketched the N.E. corner of the hut, and tried to + write a poem and failed. Been out five times and seen no auroræ. Had a + hot bath and filled the boiler with ice. Stoked up the fire and + examined the acetylene plant. Sunny Jim awoke at four. Finds something + wrong with the ice grotto lamp, but has gone off to sleep. The + temperature in here is +49° F. There is bread and butter, sardines, + and possibly cocoa awaiting me. Clocks tick everywhere, and wriggles + and snores are universal. I am yawning my head off.” + + _Later._—“I turned in at 7 a.m., so ending my first watch, and stayed + till 11 a.m. cutting breakfast.” + + I helped Cherry to build a stone hut on the beach before lunch. The + weather was quite calm, and yet before we had finished the meal there + was a furious blizzard blowing up to fifty-six miles an hour—gale + strength being thirty-eight miles. It lasted just twelve hours, but + the sudden rise was very characteristic. + + One morning Captain Scott summoned a council of Dr. Bill, Teddy Evans, + and myself to christen officially the main features of our winter + quarters. The officers who had spent the summer on the Cape had + already named some of the beaches and lakes. Teddy Evans had started + surveying, and fixed stations on outlying points, while the geologists + had cruised about the moraines to the east and so had some knowledge + of the topography there. Land’s End and Seal Rock for southern + features were agreed to. The two lakes kept Nelson’s names of Skua + Lake and Island Lake. The hill where the screens stood was changed + from Vane Hill to Windvane Hill. North Bay and South Bay were obvious, + if not novel. Oates’s pursuits were considered in the names of the + lowlands near the hut, for these were named The Paddock and The + Course. I begged that the rugged crest across the S.W. be called the + “Backbone,” but I never heard any one use the term! Finally the steep + scarp 150 feet high and continuous from High Cliff to Gully Bay came + up for discussion. Scott said, “Now this is why I summoned you, + Taylor. What do they call this in Physiography?” I could think of + nothing but “scarp”; but Scott gave it the euphonious name of the + Ramp. “Going up the Ramp” was one of the commonest remarks during the + succeeding months. Part of the Ramp to the north was a sheet of snow + and ice, and for this I suggested Slippery Slope; while, later, a + series of steps I cut up the face was known as the Golden Stairs! + + Later in the day Wright and I filled a balloon which Simpson and + Bowers let off. The procedure was now more elaborate, and in place of + merely testing wind direction the balloons carried up a meteorograph + and miles of fine silk thread. + + In a small aluminium cylinder about eight inches long is contained a + small aneroid (for pressure and height) and a small two-metal + thermometer. Levers attached to these scratch two fine lines on a + copper plate, and by suitable enlargement these lines give the + temperatures at varying heights. The black silk unwinds like a + Penelope thread and trails after the balloon. After some minutes a + fuse burns through and liberates the balloon. The meteorograph falls + to the ground with its record. + +[Illustration: Balloon Meteorgraph] + + Theoretically all one had to do was to follow the silk and pick up the + instrument. Actually it led one to the water’s edge and there + vanished, or crossed the seracs and crevasses of the Barne Glacier and + vanished again; or, worse still, started southward, and broke in the + first quarter-mile on the rugged blocks of kenyte on the Cape! Simpson + and Bowers were indefatigable in searching for the graphs, and + recovered about half of them, often walking ten miles to get a record. + A notice that any one finding a meteorograph would be presented with a + box of chocolates resulted in no great diminution of our store of that + attractive comestible! + + It was good fun sending up the meteorographs in the earlier months, + and the vagaries of the balloon gave rise to much chaff among the + operators which in naval parlance is called “hot air.” It was an + excellent school for “rounding off rough corners,” for each member had + his mannerisms so dinned into him that he could not be said to err in + ignorance. + + On the 1st May Dr. Bill gave the first lecture on Flying Birds of the + Antarctic. It was postponed from 8 p.m. till 8.15, while the sailors + (in the “mess deck”) washed up! The ribald youth spent the + quarter-hour drawing “dicky birds,” which we passed along to Dr. Bill + to keep his mind occupied, and so save him from stage fright. + + Dr. Bill shut off suddenly at 8.45, to the Owner’s pretended + amazement. The discussion lasted till nearly ten, each man being + called on by Scott in the order in which he happened to sit at the + table. + + As the birds have no enemies down south their white colour did not + seem necessary for protection. I suggested that it was because white + plumage would radiate out less heat than black (which seemed to recall + some old physical experiment I had done!). Oates said, “Talking about + birds, why were all Shackleton’s ponies grey?” Bowers wanted to know + how the second skua chick was killed in its first week. Did its + brother gobble it up? Ponting instanced an example of more than two in + a clutch. He had photoed a chicken and two eggs in a nest near the hut + last January! I inquired into this phenomenon which interested Dr. + Bill much, and after some minutes broke it to Ponting that I had done + the deed, taking pity on a motherless chicken and placing it in a warm + nest near by! A yarn that amused them was an experience in the islands + off South Australia. Here 5000 young cormorants were slain by an + adjoining colony of terns in a few hours. Where were the parent + cormorants? asked some one. They had all abandoned their offspring at + sight of the visiting members of the Australasian Association! + + On the 2nd May we held our first football match. The game was + “Soccer,” and curious was the composition of the teams. There was + little five-foot Anton, our Russian groom, who knew no English and + probably had never seen a football. Somewhat of a contrast were Crean + and Taff Evans, about six feet high, and two of the biggest men in the + navy. Moreover, Evans was a noted Welsh player. Wright’s knowledge was + based on ice hockey. I had played rugger in 1905, and now found that + the rules differed considerably. Atkinson was our star player, though + Gran had played football for Norway. + + We played on the sea-ice in North Bay, which was still badly cracked, + and not very thick, so that there was a chance of our game being a + moving one in several senses! + + I dare not give my opinion of the game. Every one seemed to be + offside; the more so the better. I followed hard on the ball, which + later I was told was inadvisable. Anton got one idea into his head, + and merrily kicked the ball to the middle of the field wherever he + happened to be. At halftime a blizzard started, and helped our side + materially. I had on windproof jersey and singlet, but as there was + forty degrees of frost I did not get particularly hot. In fact, I + could feel my arm “going” every time I stopped running, which was + unfortunate, for I had a collision with Crean which took the last of + my wind. Scott was playing just behind me, and was very urgent that I + should follow him up, but grinned cheerfully when I said I was too + winded! The blizzard nearly blew the ball off the ice. It rose to + forty miles per hour, but there was little drift, and it stopped when + it couldn’t help our side, so naturally we won by three goals to + _nil_! + + Lectures alternated with football, so that next day we heard a very + interesting lecture from Dr. Simpson. + + + LECTURE ON METEOROLOGICAL INSTRUMENTS. + + BY DR. SIMPSON. + + _June 3, 1911._ + + On the 3rd June Simpson described very clearly the various + meteorological instruments in use at Cape Evans. He illustrated his + lecture with simple diagrams, which are reproduced in the figures on + p. 221. + + He started with an amusing instance of error in measurement. It is + an obvious principle that the measurement itself must not alter the + condition of the experiment. Thus, if you want to know the length of + your own trousers, you introduce an error if you bend down to + measure them! + + There are three methods of measurement in general use—by + photography, by moving a lens, and by various mechanical methods. + Lastly, the time must be accurately recorded, and this is usually + done by a chart carried on a rotating drum, which is clock-driven. + The whole apparatus being called a chronograph. + + In determining temperatures we need that of the air itself, and we + must eliminate the direct effect of radiant heat. Thus a thermometer + placed near a newly kindled fire records the access of heat long + before the surrounding air is warmed by the fire. Hence we must + bring a large quantity of air into contact with the thermometer. The + method while sledging is to use a “sling-thermometer.” Here the + thermometer is enclosed in an aluminium case of which the opened lid + forms a handle, by which the thermometer can be swung rapidly for + some minutes in the air. + + In self-recording thermometers it is more usual to suck a large + quantity of air past the thermometer by means of a little fan, as + shown in Fig. B. + + If, however, a check is kept by frequent comparisons with standard + thermometers at the same place, this is not necessary. Thus the + thermograph at Wind Vane Hill consists of a bimetallic coil fixed at + one end, as shown in Fig. A. The inner strip is of brass, the outer + of steel. When the temperature rises the brass expands most and + straightens the coil, thereby deflecting the lever and pen, and so + marking a graph on the rotating drum. + + Another form of thermograph is shown in B, which was placed just at + “Simpson’s corner.” The large brass bassoon and copper coil were + outside the hut in the “weather cupboard,” while the small float and + drum were inside the hut. The air drawn into the bassoon by the fan + affected the volume of the alcohol in the copper tube, and so raised + or lowered the little float, and so actuated the pen. It needed to + be checked also by frequent comparisons. + + To determine wind velocity we had several instruments. On the hill + were the Robinson Cups, which whirled round merrily and were + registered by clockwork. Every six miles there was a signal sent + electrically to a chronograph inside the hut. Here we had a more + unusual instrument, called in full the Dines Pressure Tube + Anemometer, but early named the Blizzometer. Its records, owing to + its more sheltered position, were one quarter lower than those on + Wind Vane Hill. + + On the roof two vertical tubes were visible. One pointed into the + wind, and another (not shown) pointed away from wind, and was worked + by its suction effect. The outer tube is sketched in Fig. C, and the + lower end of this long pipe communicated with the blizzometer inside + the hut. A practical experience with the blizzometer in a blizzard + is given in another paragraph (p. 222). Since the resulting pressure + varies as the square of the velocity, it is necessary to arrange the + inner capacity of the drum to suit. It has, therefore, a paraboloid + vertical section (being wider lower down), so that the heaviest + gusts do not raise the piston (and pen) disproportionately high on + the graph. The essential details of the apparatus are shown in Fig. + D, the instrument being about a yard long. In Fig. E is shown the + ingenious method for obtaining a continuous record of wind + direction. The wind vane on the roof as it swings twists a cylinder + on the same axis. This cylinder was situated in the porch in close + proximity to the acetylene plant, over which we had to climb to + regulate the instrument. On this cylinder was wound a sheet of + metallic paper. At the side was a sliding point which made a mark + when pressed on this paper. It was actuated by a clockwork which + gradually lowered the point to the bottom during a period of seven + days. With a steady wind a vertical ribbon was marked on the chart, + and in our case nearly all the marks were confined to the south-east + or north quadrants. + + Simpson next proceeded to explain the instruments for detecting the + electrical condition of the air. This was merely a variant of the + quadrant electrometer, which is rather too technical an instrument + for the layman. The magnetic measurements are also open to the same + objection. The Dine’s Meteorograph is, however, a very ingenious + instrument, and I have given an account of it in a preceding section + (p. 234). + + There was a crowded and enthusiastic audience, and the experiments + were most striking in view of Simpson’s limited material. As a + preliminary Ponting nearly blew us up with his acetylene lantern, and + canny Dr. Bill sought shelter under the table! + + In the second football match, I tried the effect of wearing light + American shoes in place of heavy ski-boots. I don’t think it improved + my speed much, though I managed to give Crean two “busters,” which + pleased me greatly. Simpson did not appear, and later we found that + Wright had seen the door of the magnetic hut unfastened, and had + locked it while Simpson was within! My tight thin shoes naturally made + my toes “go,” but by diligent rubbing and gradual warming before I + entered the hut I managed to bring them back without any great pain. + + My first lecture was on the principles of physiography. Dr. Bill + assisted me to draw some sketches on large sheets of paper, which I + pinned on the pudding-board. This rested against a chair on the table, + and was lighted by our acetylene branch! Cherry drew a sketch of the + author and pinned it on the gas-jet as a screen. I discussed the + evolution of a land surface from an “infantile” plain, such as that of + Red River, Canada, through various stages of uplift to the “senile” + condition of a peneplain. + + I had made several small models in plasticene, and believe the lecture + was fairly successful; for Simpson said he started sleepy and ended + wide awake! + + I based most of my lecture on my recent work on the geology of the + Federal Capital Territory in Australia, and the substance thereof is + given in the following paragraphs. This region (about 100 miles each + way) illustrates almost all the new concepts in the evolution of a + land surface. + + Before the faulting the rivers flowed over fairly open country as the + Upper Yass River does now. The Murrumbidgee River rose on the north of + the Tindery Range and the Snowy River on the south. An ancient fault + plane assisted the Murrumbidgee to capture the snowy tributaries at + Tharwa. The country was broken by two main north-south faults. Thus + the head of Yass River was cut off to make Lake George. Molonglo River + managed to saw its way down through the scarp (as it rose) and so + formed the Molonglo Defile. All the old snowy tributaries (Upper + Murrumbidgee, Gudgenby, etc.) preserved their southward direction as + they cut deep gorges in their uplifted beds. These tributaries form + “boat-hook” bends where they join the big river. The present divide at + Cooma is an insignificant wind-gap. + + The old river-bed draining the Lake George area (which is seventeen + miles long) is preserved as a deposit of huge quartz boulders two + hundred feet above the lake at Geary’s Gap. This may be termed a + “_dead_ river.” The silts of Lake George are still being added to, and + hence this country is below base level, and may be described as + _embryo_ topography. The narrow gorge of the Molonglo and those of the + Cotter and Gudgenby exhibit _infantile_ erosion features. The lower + Molonglo River flows through a deep but wider valley with a _youthful_ + facies. The Yass River is flowing through undulating or _mature_ + country. The Upper Molonglo, winding over a dead-flat plain of silt + (held back by the rock bar at the defile) is meandering over _senile_ + topography. In every case the cross section of the valley gives the + key to the method of its formation _and date_ of its present form. + + After the lecture Captain Scott’s attitude was rather amusing. He said + physiography was too novel to accept at once, and he would like to + hear if it agreed with the teaching of older geology? Dr. Bill was + very cordial, and said the onus lay on the geologist to disprove the + tilting and faulting which I had instanced in the Australian federal + territory. + + It is a point of some interest as illustrating the growth of a special + physiographic outlook, that I had quite forgotten to mention the + _geological deposits_ above Lake George, which corroborated the + evolution of the surface as deduced by pure physiographic reasoning! + + Simpson discussed the question of the rain factor in physiography, so + I told them about our gigantic rain gauge in Lake George, near + Canberra. This is about twenty miles long and five miles wide. At some + periods it is thirty feet deep, and contains murray cod several feet + long. Again—as at present—it is covered with grass, and inhabited by + sheep and less desirable immigrants in the shape of rabbits and foxes. + + Next morning I was very pleased at a kindly remark of Scott’s: + “Taylor, I dreamt of your lecture last night. How could I live so long + in the world and not know something of so fascinating a subject!” + + Atkinson had been having successes with the fish trap, and I went out + with him to see the sport. We tramped about half a mile over the ice + to the north-west. Here was a hole in the ice three feet across. It + was filled with new mushy ice, but we soon chipped this out and flung + it to one side. Then we hauled at the rope and pulled up the trap. It + was a cylinder of wire netting about three feet long with re-entrant + ends, so that the fish could enter at the centre, but (nosing along + the walls) had not sense enough to get out again. It showed beautiful + phosphorescence as it rose out of the water, for the days were, of + course, quite dark now. + + There were twenty-one victims this time. Atkinson had caught two + batches of forty-one and forty previously. We put them in a bucket, + where they froze immediately. The change from +29° (in the water) to + −20° outside was too much for them, and in their last gasps their + gills swelled out to an enormous extent. These fish were about eight + inches long, the same _Notothenia_ we had met with before. In shape + they resembled “Miller’s Thumbs.” + + Atkinson found some parasitic grubs in some of these fish, and took + them over to Dr. Bill. The latter was engaged on some wonderful sunset + sketches, but abandoned this task and nonchalantly proceeded to make a + lifelike water-colour of pink parasitic grubs on a purple background + of liver and gall! + + I received a commission from Ye Editor to write the introductory + article for the _South Polar Times_. “On Ross Island and the Ice + Barrier. What it was like, is like, and what it’s going to be like!” I + started seriously with petrology and volcanics, etc., and then gave up + and went in for romance out of my head. Cherry seemed very satisfied + with it, and authorized me to write as much as six pages of + print—illustrations to be contributed by Bill! + + Captain Scott gave his first lecture on the 8th of May on the “Plans + of the Expedition.” He had thought out all possible details, and + ultimately carried out his plans exactly, so that I do not need to + give full notes. He relied on the ponies essentially, and frankly + confessed that he was disappointed with the dogs, though he added that + this may have been due to their food. + + With regard to the motors, he hoped they would help; but he was not + using their loads in his calculations. He realized that he was here + carrying out an experiment to benefit future expeditions. + + He felt it best to adhere to his original plan and proceed as if + Amundsen were not in the field. + + He said the great difficulty would be on the plateau. “Shackleton was + five weeks there, and was nearly done, while the Pole party will have + to spend ten weeks on the plateau. If we have bad weather,” he added, + “no one can stick it. One last point: you will see that this will take + 144 days. If we start on November 3rd—and earlier will kill the + ponies—we can’t get back till March 27th. Now, no ship can remain in + the Sound as late as this, so that inevitably the Pole party must stay + another year; and if a small party stays, there might as well be a + large party to carry out further explorations.” + + There was a long discussion on the possibility of getting ponies up + the great Beardmore Glacier. It turned largely on the character of the + glacier—so Dr. Bill came out with a base suggestion that the + physiographer be deputed to read up all the available information, and + give a lecture thereon! + + Ponting asked if the pony food could not be in part edible by men. He + was questioning our cavalry captain, and boldly suggested that oats + should be eaten—which _double entendre_ amused the House. + + Simpson has been wandering around disconsolately getting people to + smell a liquid in a bottle. Something is wrong with the petrol engine, + and all the engineering talent, including the cook’s, is at fault. + Finally it was decided that this doubtful liquid from the tank was + kerosene, and not petrol, and that perhaps a fresh supply of more + suitable diet would remedy matters. + + Ponting gave a lantern lecture on Burmah, which was interesting to all + of us. However, it had no bearing on Antarctic topics, so that I made + no notes thereon. + + I had been busy for some time on a series of maps, which I proposed to + send in to the editor of the _South Polar Times_. It was evident that + among the fifteen officers in the hut there were many travellers, and + it occurred to me that we had practically covered the world. So I drew + three maps, and in place of the geographical names I inserted the + names of the travellers. Finally, I made a table of countries visited, + and those who were near the head of this table were quite keen to see + who was the greatest traveller—in this limited sense. It was soon + evident that the contest lay between Captain Scott, the oldest, and + Gran the youngest of the party! The “Owner” called out several times + after I’d got his list, “Did you put me down for Peru ... and Azores, + etc.?” + + The final results were— + + ─────────────────────────────┬──────────────────────────── + │ Chief areas. + ─────────────────────────────┼──────────────────────────── + Captain Scott, 59 mentions│First in Africa and America. + Gran, 53 „ │Second in Europe. + Lieutenant Evans, 42 „ │First in Europe and America. + Meares, 39 „ │First in Asia. + Taylor, 33 „ │First in Australasia. + Ponting, 32 „ │Second in Asia. + Bowers, 31 „ │Second in Africa. + Garrard, 27 „ │Second in Australia. + ─────────────────────────────┴──────────────────────────── + + There was then a considerable drop to the remaining seven men. We had + about two hours’ violent discussion when I read out the list. Simpson + objected to the sailor-men being placed so high, for obviously in most + cases they merely touched at the seaports, and saw little of the + country proper. He said he would arrange them as follows: Meares, + Taylor, Ponting, Scott, Garrard. At any rate, Simpson could claim the + widest polar experience, for he had spent a year within the Arctic + circle studying the meteorology of Lapland! Scott, Wilson, and Day had + been many months in Antarctica before; but unfortunately this is + no-man’s land, and I only allotted each of them two marks for all + this! + + My second night-watch occurred on the 11th. It was blizzing outside at + forty miles per hour. Hooper provided me with a fine repast, which I + sketched to fill in time! There was cocoa and bread and butter—a sort + of currant-pudding (euphoniously termed “Bugs in Bolster”), jam, + honey, and milk. No sardines, so that it was evident that I had got on + the blind side of the commissariat. + + Cherry yells out, “Didn’t you get it away from the cliffs, Sunny Jim!” + which indicates that he’s dreaming of tracking balloons. + + In the wee smaa’ hours I wrote “Valhalla, a celestial medley,” for the + _South Polar Times_. This skit on the manners and customs of the + Antarctickers met with undeserved favour in Scott’s eyes. + + On the 15th Dr. Bill gave his second lecture, of which I took full + notes, and give them herewith. + + + LECTURE ON PENGUINS. + + BY DR. WILSON. + + _May 15, 1911._ + + There are many varieties of penguins, but they are all restricted to + the Southern Hemisphere. Although a number of fossil forms have been + found, they are also not known north of the Equator. With the + exception of the Galapagos Islands and the southern shores of the + continents, they are chiefly found on the sub-antarctic islands. + + Fossils occur in South America, where many genera have been + identified. For instance, six come from Seymour Island (Graham Land) + and five from Patagonia. In New Zealand there are fossil skeletons + six feet high, which were first described by Huxley. They occur in + Eocene limestones. + + The origin of the penguins is obscure. They began to specialize very + early in the history of birds, and all relationship to other + families is obscured. Probably they could fly once, but now the + wing-feathers are not of the type used for flight. The requisite + muscles are degenerate and the tendons have become ligamentous. Its + feather tracts are distributed like a lizard’s scales, and the + arrangement is in no way so advanced as in that of a domestic fowl. + + The earliest bird, the _Archæopteryx_, had teeth, and one or two + modern birds (_e.g._ the goosander) have makeshift teeth to grip + slippery fish. One hopes to find real teeth in the embryo of the + emperor penguin, though none are present in the adult bird. + + Some of these early Cretaceous birds were divers, and so had adopted + aquatic habits. Their shankbones were formed of three parallel + parts, and this structure is exhibited in the emperor, though in all + other birds the shankbone is solid. + + Probably New Zealand was the original home of this type of bird. + Their nearest allies are the petrels and divers, but the + relationship is doubtful. + + _Groups._—There are three main groups of penguins— + + (1) Emperor, { From 53° S. + King, { to the + Pygosceles. { edge of the Pack, + ┃ { _i.e._ 78° S. + ┏━━━━━━┻━━┳━━━━━━━━━━┓ + ┃ ┃ ┃ + Adelie. Ringed. Johnny. + + (2) Crested Penguins with long golden { From 38° S. + (_a_) Royal. } feathers over each eye. { to + (_b_) Great. } { 55° S. + + (3) Jackass Penguin. { 50° S. to + { the Equator. + + _Breeding._—The Emperor lays one egg and incubates it between the + feet and the breast-flap. The Johnny penguin seems to have the same + habit. The Adelie scratches a bare hole in gravel. The Crested + penguin makes a grass nest, while the Jackass burrows. + + _Migration._—The Antarctic penguins spend about eight months on + shore and four on the pack-ice. They usually remain within fifty + miles of land. + + The Adelies arrive in Ross Island in mid-October, the scouts + preceding the main army by some ten days. After about ten days + choosing nests the first egg is laid, and then the second soon + after. They are hatched in a month. + + _Feathers._—The Emperor chick has two sets of down feathers. The + earliest is pushed off at the end of the new feather in a few days. + And then the final feather forms the base of the down feather. + + The Adelie moults at the end of February. + + _Food._—The Adelie gathers a crop full of shrimps, and then has to + run the gauntlet of all the chicks to reach his own nest. You can + see his terror that none will be left for his own, for they are + meanwhile digesting! The young birds remain on land until starvation + drives them to the water. It is inexplicable how they know where to + go! + + The Emperor lives on fish, and so has a different-shaped beak. They + obtain their food by diving down through cracks in the Barrier ice. + For one adult hatching an egg there are a dozen unoccupied. And + there is such a rush to claim a lonely chicken that the latter + simply hates the whole proceeding! + + Three-quarters of the chicks have died by the end of October. + + From our visit to Cape Crozier in 1911 we know that the young do not + shed their down till January. The bay ice is moving out all summer. + By January most of it has gone north, and the penguins have gone + with it. The chickens are not fit to enter the water in their down + feathers, and after their free ride north they live on the pack-ice + for some weeks before commencing to swim. + + Penguins swim under water, and breathe with open beaks as they make + their frequent “dolphin” leaps. + + The dogs and ponies turned up from Hut Point on the 13th—just a month + after we left them there. Meares arrived first. He had been lost in + the drift, but had wisely coasted along by Turk’s Head and got through + all right. We welcomed them with their favourite gramophone records. + “They all went into the Shop” to cheer Meares, and then “Prehistoric + Man” to see how exactly Huntley’s voice agreed with Nelson’s! + + Dr. Atkinson started testing us for scurvy. We submitted our first + fingers, and he jabbed them with a pointed glass tube till the blood + flowed. I grieve to state my thick skin or sluggish blood necessitated + five pricks. This blood, if healthy, should be quite alkaline, and its + alkalinity is tested by neutralizing the blood with dilute sulphuric + acid. Anyway, I didn’t think much of it! For if most of the fellows + were extra good—I was medium only, while Scott and Wright (two of the + toughest specimens) were the worst! + + Several of the officers were recalcitrant, and refused all the Owner’s + cajoling to lecture! Oates only gave in after much importunity, for he + hated public speaking in any form. However, his lecture on “Horse + Training” was awaited with much interest. He solemnly arose and + commenced lugubriously with the words, “I have been fortunate in + having another date set apart for me for a second lecture,” which + raised a shout of laughter. + + + LECTURE ON HORSES. + + BY OATES. + + _May 17, 1911._ + + In feeding the ponies during the winter we must run no risks. The + pony’s stomach is very small, and he stores water in a cæcum between + the guts. In a natural state he grazes 20 hours out of the 24, hence + it is advisable to divide up the meals as much as possible and give + it them five times a day. This is inconvenient here, but we feed + them three times a day. + + Compressed chaff made from _young_ hay would be very good, but our + Australian hay was not likely to be cut very young. (“Oh!” from + Debenham.) Bran tends to dry the mouth; oats are good, because he + must chew them; and oilcake is very nutritious. + + The pony meals are as follows:— + + _Morning_: Chaff. + + _Noon_: Snow, chaff, oilcake, or oats. Always give them water on an + empty stomach. + + _Evening_: Snow at 5 p.m.; branmash with boiled oilcake or boiled + oats and chaff. + + With regard to the famous continental training, our English polo + teams can beat the foreigners, as was shown by Colonel de Lisle. It + is a Munchausen tale to speak of “lifting” a horse over a fence with + the bridle. + + Here are two horses, drawn by Uncle Bill for me. One is “balanced,” + the other not. The better horse puts most weight on the hind legs, + which are the propelling members. One should make them walk fast. If + necessary, dig them under the ribs! (Birdie plaintively interjected, + “Where is a man to walk to be ‘in command of a pony’s head and ribs’ + if he’s short in the arm?” And Titus solemnly answered, “Midway.”) + Cherry’s and Birdie’s ponies are balanced, but it would take a giant + to train “Weary Willie.” If you want to back a horse touch him on + the front shin. The French school of _haute école_ is rather in the + nature of trick riding. + + In his second lecture (August 10, 1911) Oates discussed pony + psychology. Said he, “Consider the thing a horse has in place of a + mind. He has no reasoning powers but has a very strong memory. Their + vision is not strong, but they do all by hearing. If they hear a + shout they connect it with some excitement. To shout ‘Woh!’ when a + horse is backing is both ludicrous and useless—I’ve done it! + + “It might be a good thing to dye the forelock to prevent + snow-blindness. As to whether they should be groomed here, I think + not. The grease in the coat protects the body. It is best to cut it + once and then it will grow thick later. Litter might be an + advantage, but they don’t lie down much.” + + Atkinson came in and reported having seen a meteor fall just beyond + Erebus. Simpson’s precise mind led him to ask, “Did it really fall?” + Wherefore Day interjected, “You mean, was it pushed!” Thus do the + “pseudo-scientists” hold their own. + + On the 18th we played our penultimate game of football. The sun had + vanished, but there was a little light at midday. It was, however, so + dark that on our return I chaffed Nelson for funking it, and he + retorted that he’d been playing just behind me the whole game! + + Our routine was now much the same each day. I will quote my diary for + May 19. + + “A calm morning, but snowing. Wakened by Hooper at 8.15. ‘Rouse and + shine, Mr. Taylor, sir.’ All, however, lie low, except Birdie Bowers, + Evans, and Sunny Jim. Then Birdie starts chirruping and keeps it up + solid, chiefly directed at the opposite diarists’ den. This is + inhabited, according to him, by the ‘Rubbly Ubdugs.’ I go out to + breakfast and find penguin feather flavour in the water, tea, and + milk. (This is due to a layer of feathers in our glacier supply.) So I + make a repast on porridge and marmalade. Nelson and Captain Scott + arrive later. I retreat to my bunk and read Edmund Gosse; Debenham + starts rock sections; Gran peruses maps to decide where he will go + next. + + “Our den is invaded by ‘Titus’ Oates, ‘Mother’ Meares, ‘Birdie’ + Bowers, ‘Sunny’ Jim, Bernard Day, and ‘Silas’ Wright, from which they + are with difficulty ejected, and then I start ye eternal narrative of + the Western Journey.” + + The next lecture was on Ice Problems, by Wright. He showed fifteen + slides, including some made from views on our western journey. + + We had a long discussion on the flow of glaciers, which lasted till 11 + p.m. Discussions were in the air nowadays, and no one had a greater + belief in them than Captain Scott. He was quicker to see the weak link + in a chain of argument than any man I have ever met. In my own special + study of the glacial geology of Antarctica, his practical knowledge + quite balanced what I had gained from books or travels among glaciers + of the temperate zone, so that I had many talks with him, and owe him + much scientifically for his help in criticizing and so strengthening + my main conclusions. + + Physical measurements took place again on the 21st. There were loud + cheers when Atkinson announced my waist as 35 inches. I had “gone + steady” on food during the past few weeks and knew this was another + libel, and when he corrected his statement I was proud to rank with + Dr. Bill with a waist of 29½ inches! + + “_May 25._—It has been blizzing all day, and I will describe the + doings in the hut. I am sitting on my bunk in the pose photoed by + Ponting, using my little drawing-board as a table. Gran is writing one + of his six diaries with Deb’s nib, which he blunts. He has a patent + plasticene pen rack, which doesn’t improve the handle. I told him to + learn Russian, or write an Antarctic novel in Norwegian, for he will + be at a loose end until ski-ing is possible. + + “Debenham is painting his third masterpiece. He uses my plane-table + sheet on which to paste down his papers. His little terra-cotta + water-pots (shrimp paste!) are much admired. He is rather fed up, + because he has just found that he is painting on the wrong side of his + drawing. I tell him that won’t make any difference! Day also is busy + elaborating his sketches. Marie Nelson is writing a voluminous + lecture, and making certain of all future arguments by questioning + Atkinson, Bill, and Titus (_re_ horses, etc.) beforehand. Dr. Atkinson + is groping among encysted ‘mully-grubs’ at his half of the table, + while Silas Wright wrestles with pendulum details on the other side. + + “Simpson is writing up weather for _S. P. T._; while, I believe, Dr. + Bill has finished the ‘hot-stuff’ sketches of geology, etc., for my + _S. P. T._ article. He has copied most of them from my rough sketches, + photos, or specimens. Cherry is flapping away at _S. P. T._ on the + typewriter and chortling muchly. + + “Teddy Evans is plotting a graticule for the southern survey, while + Ponting has just perpetuated the ‘Teamsters’ in the stable where Titus + entertained Meares to tea. Birdie Bowers is writing reams for his + lecture on sledge-foods—guess it will make a book! The ‘Owner’ is + reading in his cubicle as usual.” + + On the 23rd Nelson and I started off for his biological station about + a mile to the south on the sea-ice. I carried a plane-table, for I + wanted to plot the four islands off the Cape. It was a fine clear + morning, with tints of yellow, pale grey-blue, and deep blue enriching + the sky. Nelson had a special sledge equipped with a winding drum and + various boxes of “gadgets,” as he called his instruments. With this + apparatus he was surveying the depth of the sound, and found that it + varied very abruptly from place to place. Next day we went off again, + and I obtained further angles from different stations, being unable to + find the flag at east base. Finally, I found it beaten flat by the + blizzards, the 1½-inch thick standard of solid male bamboo being + snapped to splinters. + + On Queen’s birthday Captain Scott informed me that he was afraid I + should be able to do very little science on the southern trip. “You + would only be able to go up the Beardmore and down again, so your time + would practically be wasted.” So that he decided that I should go west + to Granite Harbour, at which I was very pleased, though it was rather + rough on Debenham, who was to have had charge of a party in that + region. Dr. Bill pointed out that Debenham and I were fully occupied + with different aspects of geology, so that there was room for both of + us, and Scott arranged that I was to take Gran and Forde as the other + members of the party. + + My report of the western journey was approaching completion, and I + devoted some time to making a portfolio out of purely local + ingredients. From the rubbish-heap I got me a Venesta box, built of + tough 3-ply wood. I brought this into the hut, and with much labour + pulled off the galvanized binding strips. Then I cut out suitable + portions, leaving thereon the stencil of Beach’s jams. I scrubbed them + free of strawberry jam, and then worried Day to give me a nice piece + of sealskin. This I pared down thin and soaked it in alum overnight. + Later I riveted it with bifurcated rivets from Shackleton’s hut, and + the net result was interesting, if not aesthetic! + + “It is really the ‘long winter night’ now. I should say the real + darkness began about the 20th, but you can still see to read outside + at midday! I nearly got frostbitten paring that sealskin by + candlelight in the outer storeroom. Only I kept my fingers in the + candle flame fairly frequently!” + + Birdie Bowers’ lecture on Sledge Foods was very good. + + He poked fun at the “medical faculty” on every possible occasion. I + deplored the inability to speak with authority on sledging rations, + for in the west I had permitted our butter to be eaten instead of + leaving it in a depôt, as the southern party had done! But the chief + event was the appearance of Debenham as an advocate for an official + tobacco ration while sledging, and when this was settled by the Owner, + a fresh argument on the relative values of tea and cocoa between + Birdie and Seaman Evans made more merriment. + + Late in May Ponting made some of his most picturesque studies. On one + occasion we marched out to the west over the sea-ice to photo the + icebergs. We carried a lantern, and were thus able to cross the + numerous cracks in the sea-ice safely. There had been rather high + tides lately, and these had surged through the cracks and deposited a + mushy layer, which was apparently very salty and did not freeze very + hard. We could hear the shish, shish of Debenham’s ski, but were + unable to see him. Ponting had two huge cameras, and had just set up + his apparatus when Captain Scott, Gran, and Bowers arrived. The Arch + berg had weathered greatly, and the top of the arch had caved in on + the fifth with the noise of an avalanche. The berg was rising out of + the water and had tilted up great cakes of sea-ice. Ponting wanted a + figure in the picture, but one wondered if the berg would choose that + moment to overturn! When the flash went off, however, I had moved over + too far, and so no scale appeared to give an idea of the gigantic mass + of ice. + + The last day in May was characterized by a sharp blizzard. It had been + quite calm all the afternoon, and Atkinson went off to catch fish. We + caught a whole _one_, and the weather was so warm (only 18° of frost) + that he was still moving when we reached the hut! This weather lasted + till 5.15 p.m. Then in _two minutes_ the wind rose from calm to + forty-five miles per hour with snowdrifts like driving rain. + + Next day we went out to a new hole cut in the 3 feet ice. There was a + forty-mile blizzard, but as there was no drift we got out to the hole + easily enough, though as it was drifted over we had to be careful not + to fall in. Our huge hopes from the new ground resulted in three fish! + We had much more rope to haul in and found it rather hard work. + Atkinson was much amused by the old yarn of the Irishman’s remark + while hauling up his mate: “Hold on, Mike, while I spit on my hands!” + This was apropos of my having to stop hauling to warm my nose. Atch’s + went further, and he had to stay outside the hut until the pringling + subsided! + + Dr. Bill gave us a fine lecture on sketching, illustrated by numerous + samples of his own and by copious allusions to the trials of the + budding artists in the hut! He pointed out that one aspirant had done + a fine sketch of an iceberg with a splendid reflection showing in + _stormy_ water. I backed up my unfortunate colleague by showing Bill a + portrait I had made of himself, which turned out “handsome” instead of + “lifelike.” + + + LECTURE ON SKETCHING. + + BY DR. WILSON. + + _May 31, 1911._ + + Sketching down here is very different from this class of work + elsewhere. We are limited in our tools, being confined to pencil and + chalks; and even with these we can only finish a sketch on the field + in midsummer. + + Accuracy rather than the making of pictures should be our aim in + Antarctica, especially as our sketches are largely connected with + scientific work. Nothing can be done with colour, though on the 1902 + expedition I carried forty coloured crayons and tried to use them + out of doors. Nansen, however, managed to do some useful crayon + drawings in the Arctic. + + My method is to make pencil drawings in as great detail as the + temperature will allow, and to scribble over a sort of artist’s + shorthand. I use very few colours, and can indicate Prussian blue, + for instance, by pr. b., etc. Even in temperate regions you have to + use somewhat similar shifts, for you can’t sit down to paint a + brilliant sunset. This “shorthand” I practised largely in Norway in + 1897. One gets into the habit of realizing quickly what colours will + mix to give the required shade. + + In Antarctica every topic requires a different method of treatment, + and all require accuracy. Now here are some tips that you may find + useful. + + Every line is to be criticised as a part of the whole lot, which + means you musn’t scribble haphazard. It is a good test if you can + discover something in your sketch which you did not realize when you + drew it. Always try to analyze the gradations and colours; this + power is largely a matter of habit. You can’t overdo the exercise of + your power of “seeing,” and down here the shades are so subtle that + you get very good practice. + + No coarse methods will reproduce snow, ice, or distant mountains. + All these take time, and I notice that surveyors and physiographers + fail here! + + Now I will try to point out why some sketches fail. + + There is a promising art student present who drew an iceberg. He had + not attempted one before, and so did it carefully and successfully. + But beyond this are waves and sky, and he thinks he knows them. So + we find him showing the berg reflected in waves! He should have + roughed in bits of the waves and sky and made notes. Here we see the + necessity of a first sketch which shows you bits of every feature of + the whole. + + The pencil is the only thing to use here, though in other regions + you would also make a rapid sketch to show colour contrasts. Don’t + try to draw with a brush. + + To reproduce your sketches, you use H and F pencils. It is very + difficult to grade snow and sky with ink. It is best to use a hard + pencil so that you don’t get into a smudging way, but make each line + distinct. + + Do your outlines in very faint lines so that they will disappear + when shaded, and without the use of rubber. If you want a straight + line or circle use a rule or a compass. Be careful to get the + horizon level or you will spoil the whole sketch. Remember that + nature relieves everything by shadow and colour, but not by _lines_. + + + _Principles of Sketching._ + + You will find Ruskin’s book very helpful. One should have them + instinctively, as in the case of so many Japanese and all good + artists. The rest must acquire them. + + 1. _Accuracy_, by attention to small details and differences. + + 2. Methods. Pen and ink is difficult for snow and sky, and soft + pencil is easier. + + 3. Outlines are the edges of shadows. + + 4. Perspective is not of much use in Antarctica. + + 5. Use an empty picture frame to gauge size and position. + + 6. Colours are mostly snow-white or blue-grey, but occasionally even + shadows may be orange or the brightest blue. + + 7. In shading, first practise with a square on white paper and hatch + it. Be careful never to go over the edge. + + 8. To test the inaccuracy of your eye carefully copy a maple leaf + and then superpose it on the original. + + 9. If using pen and ink outlines only, never thicken a line. Use + even lines, and remember that it is imperfect because there are no + outlines in nature. + + 10. There is no _royal way_ to do trees or clouds, etc. Be careful + not to adopt mannerisms. + + 11. Clouds are solids with a light side and a shaded side; and also + with perspective. + + And he ended up with a sly reference to myself. “In drawing land + forms you tend to become a physiographer”! + +[Illustration: Evans teaches us to cobble.] + + I spent the next morning on a “make and mend.” My Russian felt boots + were wearing out from the usual cause: not through rough surfaces, but + from scorching when drying near the stove! So I borrowed Wright’s + sewing awl, and Taff Evans coached me with this weapon. It always used + to worry me how cobblers sewed a boot when they couldn’t see the + inside thereof! Anyhow I made a sketch of the method, and afterwards + sewed boots, bags, camera cases, and all sorts of gear with complete + success. + + _Procedure._—(A) Push threaded awl through first hole and pull one + end of thread out on inside of boot. To this + attach a stiff point, _i.e._ a nail. + + (B) Pull back awl and push through next hole. + + (C) Make two loops of the awl thread (see sketch) + _inside_ the boot, and put the nail through the + loop, whose end is attached to the boot (the other + loop is in the supply thread), and so on. + + Then I darned four socks, using string instead of wool, for with + _four_ pairs on, and with our hardened skin, the roughness was + immaterial. + + Whit-Sunday came along in due course, and we had Church service. This + consisted of the usual Morning Prayer with the special Antarctic + Collect and two hymns. Absolutely the chief lack in the hut was a + hymnal with tunes! We had a Broadwood piano and a dozen hymn books, + but no music except three or four songs, such as “Asleep in the Deep,” + “Old Madrid,” and “Alcala.” + + Captain Scott asked me to vamp some tunes for the hymns. I could + really have risen to hymn _music_, but was unable to vamp, and told + him so. I tried to invent an accompaniment or two but failed dismally. + Cherry next negotiated it, and managed one or two quite successfully; + but each fresh tune needed such a lot of practice that he gave it up + after a few Sundays. + + However, there seemed no end to the tunes known to Scott and Bowers, + and these with Wilson, Debenham, and Lashley formed quite a + respectable choir. + + The Owner was very keen on the hymns. On one occasion he gave out + “Onward, Christian soldiers,” and was so dissatisfied with the result, + that he specially repeated the same hymn next Sunday till we were more + in unison. + + The _South Polar Times_ was now finished as far as the letterpress, + and was in the hands of the binder. The whole production was supposed + to be a secret, but it was necessarily a very open one! We could all + see Day manipulating sealskin and Venesta board—in his bunk; though I + don’t think that any one expected he would make such a really artistic + job of it as he did. Ponting printed four of his finest photographs on + very large sheets and then moulded them and trimmed them as plates, + and they added greatly to the beauty of the resulting volume. + + I had handed in my official report on the first western journey to + Captain Scott, and now busied myself with a comparison of the + meteorological results of the 1902 and 1910 expeditions. + + The temperature curves are very interesting and are shown in the + annexed figure. + +[Illustration: Diagrammatic illustration featuring a horizontal +measuring scale with evenly spaced vertical ticks and branching lines +above it, suggesting plotted data or a schematic layout.] + +[Illustration: Sections of Fossils Beardmore Gl. 1908] + + On the 5th of June, I gave a lecture on a place I had never seen and + probably will never see—the Beardmore Glacier. I had to spend a + considerable amount of time in reading it up in Shackleton’s book. + Scott had lent his copy to Campbell, so that mine was the only copy in + the hut, and was naturally consulted by everybody. It is a unique + copy, for all the expedition signed it, so that it forms the last + collection of such autographs; and later Sir Ernest was good enough to + write a brief letter therein on the opposite page. + + Curiously enough there was one aspect of the Beardmore on which I + could speak with some authority. I had spent two years in Cambridge + doing paleontological research on some Cambrian corals from Central + Australia. Among the specimens which Shackleton had brought back from + the farthest south rock was a small pebble of green marble. In this + were some minute fossils, and they turned out to be the same + “ancient-cups” (_Archeocyathinæ_) as I had described in Cambridge. So + this unique specimen was handed over to me for description, and I was + able to tell our fellows the “habits” of the Beardmore corals. + +[Illustration: Fossil ‘Sponge-Coral’ from the Beardmore Glacier 84°S. +1912 (Restored).] + + These queer fossils seem to unite the characters of the two great + families of sponges and corals. They died out in the Cambrian age, but + are of world-wide distribution in deposits of that period. + + I had drawn an enlarged map of the Beardmore, and I read extracts from + “The Heart of the Antarctic,” describing the position of the crevassed + areas, etc. My next “old master” was a fine effort—a sort of panorama + of what you would see looking back down the Beardmore. I had + commandeered it from the _Sphere_; but it seemed unnecessary to say + so! + + Then from some notes given me by Professor David, I was able to + describe the geology of the rocks fairly fully. + + Two contrasted longitudinal sections of the Ferrar and Beardmore + glaciers showed the immensity of the latter and its comparatively + slight slope. I even had a specimen to exhibit! a small piece of the + original fossil-bearing green marble hung as a pendant on my + watch-chain. This was examined by all present, and the southern party + swore to pick up all the green marble they could carry, on the off + chance of it containing my pet fossils! I may be allowed to mention + that this specimen now adorns a lady’s ring, and is mounted after a + design which I owe to Lady Scott. + +[Illustration: + + The most southern fossils: archeocyathinac marble set in a ring. +] + + The question of collecting specimens was important, especially as no + geologist was going south. However, I asked them to collect fresh + pieces (which need not be large), and from rock _in situ_ if possible. + A description of the physiographic data most required finished the + lecture. + + Dr. Wilson raised a question as to the meaning of the word + “glaciated.” “Is Erebus glaciated?” he asked. I said “No, not in the + strict sense”—for the word applies to regions laid bare after a + glacier has retreated. Scott thereupon said that a new name is needed + for glacier-covered lands. (I think the word “glacierized” is + permissible for this type of country.) + + The Owner and I had a great cag as to the shape of the ice at the + mouth of the Ferrar Glacier, which he had explored in 1903. I said in + 1911 it had a _tongue_ jutting out to the south-east; he thought there + was a _bay_ here! “This is very queer,” said Scott. “Well, I can’t + make it out! I expect I shall continue to believe I’m right, and you + will believe you’re right.” I said, “I can do better than that. I + believe we are both right, and it’s these incomprehensible glaciers + that are wrong!” + + It was late when I turned in and most of the others were asleep. Some + were dreaming, for Cherry cried out suddenly, “But look here, those + horses are quite unloosed!” + + Titus Oates was awakened in the next bunk and inquired anxiously, + “What’s that about the horses?” + + It will have been gathered that there was some touch of the navy about + our life in the Hut. I may, without breach of confidence, say that I + had been warned by a former explorer against the “side” of the naval + men. This advice seems most amusing on looking back at our + experiences. Apart from Scott the naval men were younger than the + scientists, and their attitude may be gathered from their + nickname—which they bore with considerable complacency—of the + “pseudo-scientists”! But it was a case of give and take. A naval man + would wish to learn some branch of science, and one of the most + amusing evenings was when one naval student underwent an examination + by one of the geologists and successfully attained honours, through + the whispered promptings of the other geologist. + + The account of the lectures will show how catholic were our interests. + Practical meteorology and navigation are two subjects in which I + received kindly assistance from the respective experts. Dr. Bill, as I + have shown, was willing to devote hours to any of us who wished to + learn to sketch. Ponting was always ready to train the southern party + so that they might obtain a satisfactory photographic record of the + Polar dash. And so on right through the community, including the + seamen and others in the mess deck. I am sure the latter enjoyed the + free life. It must have been a topsy-turvey experience for them to see + the weary watchman—who was always one of the officers during + 1911—nodding or shivering over the stove, while they snugly slept + through the night. + + Occasionally, if the unfortunate officer fell over the fire-irons, or + otherwise disturbed the “mess deck,” the sailor-men would permit + themselves the luxury of caustic remarks behind their curtains—well + knowing that the chance of scoring off a member of the “afterguard” + would not occur in a less socialistic community. I remember playing + off a game of bezique with Taff Evans, who rather prided himself on + the game. At first, to my amazement, he was beaten, and the mess deck + crowded into our cubicle to jibe at Taff! However, he soon got + “topsides” of a mere geologist. Dr. Atkinson was keen to learn + Russian, and we used to hear him chanting vocabularies with the two + Russians in the mess deck. + + If we wanted any repairs done, it was always easy, with a little + blarney, to get round Evans, or Crean, or Lashley, or one or other of + the petty officers, and all the scientists learnt something of many + handicrafts through contact with the stalwarts of the navy. + + Debenham and Gran went off to visit Hut Point, and bring back the + specimens we had left there in April, so that I had the Ubdug cubicle + to myself. The enemy took advantage of my lonely condition, and just + as I had got off to sleep a great beam of wood, six feet long, was + pushed into my bunk by some base villain. I arose in my wrath, and + seeing that “Marie” Nelson seemed somewhat conscious in his bunk, I + pushed it on to him, and added a chair or two, and various other + movables. He fell upon me, and we rolled about over the main table + until I skilfully deposited him up against the Owner’s cubicle, when + he had to desist for fear of wrecking it. Birdie Bowers, Meares, and + Oates were hugely delighted, the more so because Birdie had done the + foul deed! + + Such were the cowardly tactics of the Bunderlohg. I was too tired to + attempt to chastise Birdie, and turned in again, merely remarking that + he would not have dared to do this if my honourable colleagues had + been present. + + It was quite an accident, but almost all the scientists and non-naval + men were on the port side of the hut, while the naval men and + “Teamsters” were on the starboard side. Dr. Wilson was out of place in + the ranks of conservatism; but as he used jovially to egg on both + sides, we rarely knew his opinion on the burning questions of the day! + + Curiously enough, the right arm of the conservatives (“reactionaries” + _we_ called them) was our biologist Nelson. He and Bowers argued + largely, until Birdie became too deeply immersed in the question of + stores to attend to much else. But I was credited with a nimble + tongue, and Simpson was always crushing, with his inside knowledge of + social problems, so that the Progressive Party was by no means + unrepresented. We could always rally a strong colonial contingent in + the persons of Debenham (Australia) and Wright (Canada); and never + have I had such amusing arguments (cags we called them) as during the + Antarctic night. Woman’s Suffrage I have known argued _ad nauseam_ + from dinner-time (7 p.m.) till midnight, when Nelson and myself were + left still opposed, and still full of argument. Prayers for peace + never deterred Nelson from preaching women’s inferiority. Boots were + the arguments that usually drove him to seek his cubicle and sink to + rest. + + In mid-June there was bright moonlight, so Wright and I decided to + visit Cape Royds, and get a few things from Shackleton’s hut. I + started with balaclava and wind helmet, and two pairs of gloves. As + there was no wind, and only −8° temperature, I shed first the helmet, + then the balaclava, and then the thick and thin pairs of gloves! It + was about six miles only, and of course much easier by the sea-ice + than _viâ_ the crevassed Barne Glacier (our route in January). We got + some gas tubing, which Day wanted, some ginger for Atkinson, tracing + paper and a chisel for Charles, and I bagged a carpenter’s rasp. It + reminded me of Crusoe’s visits to his old ship, for it was great fun + poking about in cupboards, not knowing what treasures might turn up. + + We soon turned south to our own hut, meeting Birdie and Cherry also + off to Cape Royds. On our left Erebus looked like a great cone of + white sugar against the blue-black sky, where the moon shone + resplendent. Charles rudely scoffed at my poetic wish that Luna were a + mirror and would show us how the world were progressing! + + Debenham and Gran returned next day after an absence of six days at + the Discovery Hut. On arrival they found one of our dogs (Macaca) + lying in the porch. He had been lost for a month, and was naturally + pretty thin! They fed him on some biscuits, and then got the blubber + stove going. In the whole time they had only had three hours decent + weather! In the same time we had only experienced three hours bad + weather. But every day was showing us more and more clearly that the + weather conditions were extraordinarily localized in the Ross Island + area. + + They had started back on Sunday, but were caught in a snowstorm when + about two miles off, and so took their bags off the sledge and bolted + back for safety! Monday was very thick; and later Debenham woke, and + his watch said 2. The only clue as to whether this was 2 a.m. or 2 + p.m. was that the dog seemed very hungry, which made them think it was + morning. So they rushed off without breakfast, and expected to arrive + in time to have it with us; to find us just getting ready for supper! + It was a quaint coincidence that Birdie and Cherry had also lost count + of time, and came in expecting breakfast at 7 p.m. Such is the + pernicious effect of the sun’s absence for four months! + + For some weeks I had been helping Simpson in the magnetic hut. Each + Thursday he secluded himself in the little asbestos hut, and proceeded + to obtain absolute measurements of the magnetic field. He had a small + stove to warm the hut, and kept the temperature at +65°, so we were + comfortable enough, except that a wind of sixty degrees of frost + sailed in through the hole in the wall by which he viewed his stadium. + + At Cape Evans the magnetic variation was about 150° E., which means + that the north-seeking end of the magnet pointed to the south-east! In + other words, we were far to the southward of the south magnetic pole. + In fact, when we were at Knob Head Mountain, up the Ferrar Glacier, + the variation was nearly 180°, and we were close to the line joining + the south magnetic pole to the end of the earth’s axis—which is the + real South Pole. + + The procedure in the magnetic work was too technical to be inserted + here. However, Simpson estimated the dip of the needle by accurate + measurement of the angle of rest of a magnet swung on a horizontal + axis. Then he got the horizontal factor. This controls the position of + an ordinary magnet, as usually swung on a vertical axis. + + The results were used as a check on the continuous record obtained + from the magnetometers in the ice grotto. At certain fixed dates + Simpson and Wright carried out “quick runs.” All the chief + observatories in the world were doing the same work at the same + instant, and Simpson’s work, so near the magnetic “hub of the + universe,” was obviously of prime importance in this connection. + + The Cape Crozier party were now busily engaged with their preparations + for the midwinter journey to the haunt of the Emperor penguins. For + some weeks Cherry had been practising hut-building near Skua Lake. He + used the kenyte boulders, which lay scattered around the hut. It was + roofed with sealskin, and in one corner he managed to maintain a + blubber stove. + +[Illustration: Bill’s Nose-nip 17·6·11] + + Uncle Bill was busy making a patent nose-guard to withstand the + blizzards of the Barrier. + + “Extraordinary the affection a fellow gets for a pair of old pants!” + says Birdie, who has spent all morning darning a pair for the + midwinter journey. Dr. Bill glances at them, and says drily, “Most + extraordinary!” + + Some one else chimed in, “It’s queer the way your clothes vanish in + this hut, even if they are _marked_!” We all agreed that the only safe + way was to wear them. Gran pathetically remarked, “And dey do seem to + go den too!” + + Said Meares caustically, “Never mind, you’ll find them when you have + your next bath” (which sounds unkind, if you don’t understand the + difficulties of bathing in the hut; for Gran melted down bits of + glacier for a wash as often as most of us!). + + I went out to South Bay to see how Nelson’s biological station was + progressing, and carried a thermos flask with me. The moon gave a + little light. His semicircular wall (called the “Igloo”; quite + wrongly) was built of mush ice from the hole, and was now six feet + high, opening to the north. It was curious how the blizzard drifts + rebounded from the wall and left a windward trench all round the + latter, though a great pile of drift extended many yards north (to + leeward). + + He picked at the new ice with a crowbar and ladled it out with a sort + of net. Then he pulled up his nets, which phosphoresced beautifully + from transparent _Siphonophora_. It must be understood that though our + air temperature in winter was below −30°; yet the salt water was + always +29° (or 59° warmer!). So that a sound scheme would have been + to have had a diving-bell retreat and go down under the sea-ice, out + of the blizzards at minus thirty. This was, of course, just what the + seals did! + +[Illustration: A characteristic Portrait in a Bliz.! 18·6·11] + + He emptied the animals into the thermos flasks (which were intended + for _our_ comfort), and so got them back to the hut without their + being damaged by freezing. + + Then we returned to the hut, facing the keen north wind; so that a + characteristic photograph of _any_ explorer under such conditions is + shown in the annexed sketch! + + Debenham and I had some arguments as to the temperatures in the hut. I + felt cold in my bunk, whereas he said he was always warm in his. + However, we got a thermometer and tested the temperature at various + levels. + +[Illustration: Vertical Temperature Gradient in Hut 19·6·11] + + Near the stove it was 55°, but on the floor in our cubicle it was 35°, + only a degree or two above freezing. No wonder our toes got cold. My + bunk was 42°, the table was 45°, and his bunk (six feet above the + floor) was 52°. So that naturally he was warmer in the belt of + ascending air. However, the elevated bunks were (like the “gods” at a + theatre) not specially well ventilated, so that I preferred my cooler + sleeping-place. + + Next day Simpson and I went off again to look at the Igloo. There was + only a faint starlight, and we could neither find the Igloo nor the + Cape when we turned back! However, we steered by a star and got back + to the hut by a longer route, during which I fell three feet into the + tide crack between the sea-ice and the hut. + + That evening Day lectured on “Motor Sledges.” It was good to hear him + so optimistic. Scott told us of his experiences at Lauteret in France + with the “Antarcticker” Charcot. (Quite recently a statue to Captain + Scott has been erected by the French in this region.) + + I had agreed to sketch the movements of the steam cloud from Erebus + during the winter, but I note on the 20th June, that it was about the + first time for a month that I had been able to see the top of Erebus. + Ponting reported that it was glowing strongly during the day; but no + colour was visible when I went out to look at it, while Debenham spent + a long while outside on the off chance of an eruption. But −35° cooled + him off, and he came in unsuccessful. + + “_Midwinter Day, June 22, 1911._—Here it is Midwinter Day, and except + in my sleeping-bag sledging, I have not felt specially cold down here, + sixty below freezing without wind is perfectly comfortable. But this + morning a nippy north wind made my thumbs ache while cutting out the + fish trap, and Atch’s and my noses are getting red-tipped and sore. + Still, I’ve known that happen elsewhere! One never gets ‘chaps’ here; + I wonder why? However, August is the coldest month and the stormiest, + but it will be lighter then. + + “This afternoon, at 3 p.m. (Greenwich) there was a strong twilight to + north. Light red (a clear non-yellow colour) along the horizon. Then + indigo—probably a cloud—then clear pale blue, and above this + slate-blue merging into the star area. No moon or sun. But an hour + later all this had vanished. + + “I am on night duty. Dr. Bill was up till 1 a.m. He heard me cursing + because I couldn’t find my towel after my usual bath, and came to help + me. Bathing at 6° above freezing-point, you don’t care to wait about + much! I have on my Jaeger coat, felt boots, two pairs of wool socks, + wool helmet, two jerseys, thin flannel shirt, and thick singlet, thick + underpants and thick corduroy trousers. By keeping my feet up on a + chair out of the cold ‘floor air’ I keep comfortably warm, but will + probably go into the kitchen galley. + + “2.30 a.m. Just been putting in half an hour with the confounded + stove. I added compressed fuel at midnight, but later found it nearly + out. I’ve devoted one of my two weekly candles to it, but it only + flamed weakly. So I waked Clissold. He says it’s due to the cold ice + I’ve just put in; but adds, ‘Let her rip!’ So I don’t care. The + porridge won’t be properly cooked, but most of them like it so! + + “I suppose the gramophone will be celebrating to-day. They are fine + records. I like the opening chorus to the ‘Dollar Princess’ best, + though I can only hear the words ‘across the water,’ but the minor key + is O.K. Margaret Cooper’s ‘’Tis folly to run away from love’ is the + only clear girl’s voice. Robey on ‘Golf’ and ‘Prehistoric Man’ are + very popular. Oates always calls for ‘The Sergeant of the Line’ and + ‘Why should I marry at all?’ Both are good bass songs. The Anona-Banjo + dance is fine. Meares likes ‘We all walked into the Shop,’ while Gran + prefers a Creole wail, ‘Ma Honey’ and ‘Madam Butterfly,’ which I can’t + stick! We have a few hymns, and the ‘Night Hymn at Sea’ is grand. + + “Debenham, Ponting, and Cherry (especially the latter) are good at the + pianola. It works usually from 5 to 6 and 12.30 to 1.30, while the + gramophone runs from 8 to 9 if there’s no lecture. We don’t have any + sing-songs, and they are really not needed with the three or four + hundred tunes on the two instruments. + + “I snoozed peacefully after my night-watch till noon on the 22nd. Then + we had lunch, and Cherry produced the first number of the _South Polar + Times_ and handed it to Captain Scott. + + “He had typed all the prose, and (cutting out alternate pages from a + day-book) had pasted the sheets in the book between clean pages. There + were fifty pages of typescript. Then Day had bound it splendidly in + Venesta board. It was edged with sealskin, and he had cut a cameo + monogram, _S.P.T._, through the outer layer of venesta into the dark + _middle_ layer of the three-ply boards. + + “There were about ten full-page illustrations, and many drawn by Bill + in spaces left in the text when typed. + + “The guessing at authors was very funny. Gran was rabidly curious. I + fear no one thought I had done ‘Valhalla,’ which is a mixed + pleasure—for all seem to enjoy it; while Nelson put down the + ‘Protoplasmic Cycle’ to Debenham, though he had actually read the + verse in the Pack in my diary! Bill’s illustrations are tiptop, + especially the three Egyptian tablets. The latter are frightfully + clever apart from the draughtsmanship. Every line is a history in + itself. + + “The _first_ sketch shows three of the debris cones on the Ramp. One + is labelled—in honour of our cubicle—the Ubdugs, while Birdie, in his + green hat, crowns another. + + “The _second_ shows Keohane painting (he did the yellow funnel on the + ship). He stands on Forde. ‘Chippy’ carries the hut, and Abbott (with + frosted hair) helps him. Day on his motor has his long legs and arms + disposed in true hieroglyphic attitudes. Meteorological signs for + thunder and lightning surround the engine. + + “In the bottom corner is the western party sledging. Three men pulling + hard, while one lanky individual provided with a long beard is + sketching instead of working! This is a foul and funny libel on + myself! + + “The _third_ represents Birdie, Crean, and Cherry (with spectacles) + adrift on the floe. This is labelled with the sign * (for ice) to + prevent any mistake. The killer-whales are going for Birdie’s fat + legs. Then there’s the 1902 Hut bulging out with ice, with drip-pots + to catch the thaw, and ‘Hoosh’ labelled in Beaufort scale letters. + + “In the other corner a screaming drawing of the ‘Little Perisher’ + (Atkinson) caressing a frostbitten ear and nose which is labelled with + the ‘glazed frost’ sign. They are the funniest pictures I have ever + seen, and beat Hogarth into a cocked hat for detail.” + +[Illustration: + + “SOME ANTARCTIC ARCHIVES.” +] + + + EXTRACT FROM SOME ANTARCTIC ARCHIVES. + + 1. And it came to pass that in the month of January, + + 2. Scothe-Ohnah took up wintak-watahs on Ros-is-land. + + 3. And there was great barkinofdogs and neighinofhorses + + 4. With phufphuf of motahs. + + 5. The Hut was raised by chypechap, fordandkohane. + + 6. Abbottelped. + + 7. All said “Itwa s’dam cold”. + + 8. After Three Weeks (E’Linag Lyn) it was done. + + 9. Then twelve under Scothe-Ohnah started South, + + 10. Fourundah Sharn-Gatch for the West. + + 11. Theship departed. + + 12. The Cobbos parted, Kreen-an-Ephans. + + 13. Birdibow-Ahs of the mighticaluph reached the furthest. + + 14. Withim Soljah-an-gran. + + 15. Bur-de-Cherry and Crean “chaunst their arm”. + + 16. Olswell. + + 17. Allah-ad-diris. + + 18. Sharn-ledwel and kambaque. + + 19. Theoldh-utwas full. Itliqued. Itwa-so-dakh. + + 20. Soljah-fash-son-ed a stove. + + 21. It burned with blubber and did nearly all the cooking. + + 22. Hu Ra. Hoosh. Hush. Hoosh. + + 23. Thesephroze. + + 24. Scothe-Ohnah and with him eight others left for Kapevans. Thalef + thejonah. + + 25. Theice bluout. + + 26. Phrostbit nosears and phace. + + 27. Thisis thethir tieth. + + 28. Garnfroste phace! + + 29. Daian Marie came sledging. + + 30. They got phrostbit. Algot phrostbit. + + 31. Bill Esau sumemp-Rahs. + + 32. Enuphsasgudas-a-phest. + + “Gran is very funny about Valhalla! He has been sounding Birdie and + Ponting as to the home of the northern gods! Marie Nelson had never + heard of Valhalla, but was going to work to find out who coined the + word ‘pont.’ The Owner read the greater part to us. He can make a good + speech and write well, but he’s no reader, as he confessed! Ponting’s + plates are splendid. Gran thinks he did the ‘Sleeping Bag Medley’; but + I doubt it strongly. However, probably my guesses are as wild as any + one’s and the whole thing is very good fun. + + “After lunch I went out for a stroll to see the Antarctic in darkest + night. No one else seemed keen. I walked to South Bay over Island Lake + and back over Skua Lake. + + “There was a twilight, grey-blue to the north—an arc extending from + about Granite Harbour to Cape Royds, and this gave some light. I wore + my felt boots, which are warm though slippery. I came one cropper + through not seeing a drop of two feet down a snow ridge. As I walked + up the next snow slope, it gave out an octave—the notes descending the + scale! I could just see Tent Island, but could not make out the edge + of the cliff close by. It was so calm that I walked part way back + without a helmet. I came another cropper, hurting my shin and elbow + and so to the hut. + + “On my return, I found them draping the hut with sledge flags. My + ‘blood-stained banner’ and Debenham’s (both made by my sister) were + hung over the table. Atkinson and Birdie made their own flags. (Atch + has a black tree on a white silk flag.) Ponting and Gates have none. + + “Then we had dinner, while Ponting manœuvred the cameras to get a + photo. He moved away all nearer than I was, so I was left in the + foreground, and unfortunately practically spoilt the picture! For I + meekly cast my eyes down as the flash went off, and am obviously blind + drunk! They don’t know that I only had a quarter-glass of awful + lime-juice, while the others had champagne! + + “Then speeches began. The Owner made a ripping speech, pointing out + that we’d done half the time, and must realize that we could only do + about as much more. Dr. Simpson wished health to the southern party, + and we who were going west drank it with him. I arose with an apology + for saying, ‘Captain Scott, Gentlemen, and Non-scientists.’ This dig + at Oates, Birdie, and Co. brought down the house, for they have + occasionally opened by saying, ‘Captain Scott, Scientists, and + Gentlemen.’ Atkinson and Wright failed lamentably, except that Charles + said (_à la_ the discussions), ‘I have no remarks to make, sir, in + addition to those stated,’ while Atch said, ‘I endorse that.’ Debenham + discussed the colonial representation on the expedition. Cherry + reminded us of the home folks drinking our healths. + + “Birdie had moved off to the foot of the table, and said he couldn’t + make a funny speech, so he was going to _show_ us something funny. + Therewith entered four of the seamen with a unique Christmas tree. + + “It was built of a ski-stick draped with bunting, with penguin feather + foliage, hung over with candles and candied fruit. The gifts were from + Mrs. Wilson’s sister, and were perfect. Birdie’s distribution was + magnificent. + + “Every second present or so was a necklace or earrings for ‘Miss + Jessie’ Debenham. Meares got many wedding-rings in memory of his + refrain, ‘Ting! Ting! You buy the ring.’ ‘Marie’ Nelson had a huge + fan, while Dr. Bill got a book of drawing copies. Titus got a popgun, + and ‘Silas’ Wright an envelope marked ‘In memory of my native land,’ + containing the Stars and Stripes! This, as a loyal Canadian, he threw + away with contumely. + + “I got a ‘Physiographic outfit’ of shovel, axe, and pick for ‘our + Griff,’ and a packet of shaving paper for ‘the Lord High + Physiographer,’ and (I blush to state) a trumpet with a note which I + scorn to set down! + + “Then the table was cleared away, after we had pulled crackers, and we + sat down to look at Ponting’s slides of events to date. They were + admirable, especially the Ice-foot and Pancake ice. I was exhibited + rather frequently, and the incipient beard excited much hilarity.” + + A few of the seamen became rather merry by this time, and a set of + lancers was not a great success, my partner finding the floor + unsteady. We all turned in before 2 a.m. (except Dr. Bill, who was on + watch), and so ended our Midwinter Feast. + +[Illustration: How we found Midwinter.] + + On the next day I spent some hours trying to find the exact time when + the sun _was lowest_. As we had not seen him for two months, this may + seem difficult! But from the Nautical Almanac it was possible to plot + the sun’s position (declination) for three or four days each side of + the 22nd. This came out a parabola, of which we could not find the + exact apex (or date of lowest sun). However, by adding the curve of + the _variation_ (as suggested by Wright), the date came out readily + enough at the intersection of two straight lines. + + “The result at Greenwich was ⅒ of 24 hours after the noon of June 22 = + 2h. 24m. p.m. Our clock[8] keeps Greenwich time (though we are not + quite on 180° meridian), so that this time by our clock was the + critical instant of midwinter. Hence Dr. Bill was the only one awake + at that interesting moment! + + “However, Thursday’s dinner on the 22nd was the nearest to the exact + time of lowest sun, so we were _en règle_. Meares insisted that I was + thus particular because I wanted another feed on the 23rd! This to me, + who ate nothing and drank less!” + + Gran and I had a competition, as to who could guess the most authors + in the current volume of _S. P. T._, the loser to give a dinner on our + return. I stipulated “no alcohol,” but, on Gran’s remonstrances, + agreed to “Australian wines.” I thought I should win, for he hadn’t + contributed, and I knew three of the thirteen with some certainty! I + wrote out a list, and so did he, and we asked Cherry to referee. He + was not to be drawn from the silence of the editorial chair. Finally + he said our bet was off, because we were equal. Teddy Evans, however, + declared that he knew most of them, as they’d been discussed by Bill + and Cherry in his cubicle. He said I got ten right and Gran nine. At + any rate, the first suitable place for a dinner was my own town + (Sydney), where, of course, I was host, so that Gran came off best + ultimately. + + Late in June I gave a lecture on the “Physiography of the Western + Mountains.” Ponting kindly made two dozen slides for me, and he put + these through the lantern, with the addition of some maps I drew on + glass, and one extra (by Gran), which was a libel on the + physiographer! The problems discussed in this lecture have already + been described in my sledge narrative. + + On the 27th June the gallant midwinter expedition started. Dr. Wilson + was in charge, and was accompanied by Bowers and Cherry-Garrard. Their + object was to visit the Cape Crozier Rookery, and to study the habits + of the Emperor penguins during the nesting season. No one had ever + seen them nesting, nor had any eggs, except long-abandoned specimens, + ever been found. Wilson hoped to get embryo chicks, and thus study the + early stages of these birds, which in some ways are the most primitive + existing, and which therefore exhibit features linking them to the + reptiles. + + They took two sledges, pulling a heavy load of 253·3 lbs. per man. + Numerous bamboos, specimen bottles, penguin-nets, special clothing, + etc., accounted for the load; but they proposed to be absent five + weeks and would need extra provisions in view of the extremely low + temperatures. No such trip had ever been made before. No one realized + what they would have to encounter, and I hope no one will ever again + attempt to do anything so close to the confines of human endurance. + + Nelson, Gran, and I accompanied them nearly to Glacier Tongue. We + could just make out the black crags against the white snow. I had a + bet with Bill that we could see Little Razorback Isle. I lost, for it + was the 500-foot cliff of Turk’s Head, and this was a pity. I was so + sure, that I bet him the small amount of £40,000,000! + + “When we stopped I called for three cheers for the Cheery Winter + Knight, the Short Winter Knight, and the Long Winter Knight. When they + saw that I meant ‘Knight’ (and not the surrounding gloom!) they + laughed muchly, and we left them cheery.” + + In the evenings we went in for games of various sorts—though never + _cards_, for some unknown reason. Captain Scott and Atkinson used to + play a couple of games of chess each evening. Nelson was our “star + performer” at any game of skill, and could beat any of the others at + chess. I should think Debenham and I probably played most chess. + Wright and Simpson occasionally indulged, and were of about the same + class. Gates and Debenham were fond of backgammon. Evans, Gran, and I + played Matador a great deal, until I found myself getting beaten with + monotonous regularity, when I decided that dominoes wasn’t an + intellectual game, and stuck to chess! + + “We have just been discussing Jules Verne on the shooting of bears + with mercury bullets! The temperature is now −40° F. (seventy degrees + of frost), and the feat would be possible, at any rate, as far as + loading went!” + + Outside “Silas” Wright is busy getting “time” from star occultations + with a patent telescope. His station is near the rubbish-heap, and is + connected by telephone to the hut. It is a cold game, as may be + imagined, and to manœuvre in light gloves with delicate screws would + try the patience of a saint. I never heard of a Saint Silas, and when + Wright’s light blows out, the gentleman inside the hut (with the + chronometers) blushes at the language carried by the telephone wire. + There was a yarn (which it is not necessary to believe) that the said + wire had to be drenched with water at regular intervals to prevent the + heated remarks from fusing it! + + Wright had one of Colonel Sterneck’s gravity pendulum equipments, and + for this he needed to know times to 0·000001 part of a second! Thus he + could tell whether his pendulums swung quicker or slower in Antarctica + than in New Zealand. If they swung quicker, then they were nearer the + centre of the earth “down south.” Thus the good old simile in which + the shape of the earth is compared to a flat-ended orange is deduced + scientifically by a frostbitten scientist at “seventy below freezing”! + + As soon as Simpson had equipped his main station he fitted up a + thermometer screen above the Ramp on the icy slopes of Erebus. Later + two more were placed on the sea-ice —one towards Tent Island and the + other in North Bay. These were labelled A, B, and C at first, but + these seemed prosaic names when one had literally a chance of losing + one’s life when one paid them a visit during disturbed weather in the + long winter night. So that the screen in North Bay was dignified into + “_Archibald_,” “_Bertram_” lived above the Ramp, and “_Clarence_” was + “way out in the country” to the south. + + Ponting and I introduced ourselves to Bertram on the last day in June. + He lived beyond the rough moraines, so we had to put on leather boots. + One of the dogs (Tsigane) accompanied us. We could just see, and + managed to climb up the 150-foot Ramp, with some diminution of wind, + and in half an hour had reached Bertram, 250 feet up. + + There were two thermometers—one registering maximum temperatures, one + giving present reading and also (the most interesting reading) the + minimum temperature. On this occasion the coloured alcohol showed −20° + F., −27°F., and −37° F., respectively. In calm weather it was usually + from five to ten degrees colder at the Hut than at Bertram, for the + cold air sank to sea-level. But in rough weather all the air was + churned up, and the temperatures were much the same at all four + stations. + + We read the thermometers by a candle, for it was a calm day; but my + toes began to go, and so we hurried back to the Hut, when I decided to + go in for more socks. + + After this I read Bertram fairly regularly when the weather seemed + promising. Scott definitely ordered that no one should visit the + screens if there seemed risk involved, for the Hut thermometer + recorded continuously and the others were only for comparison, and got + less important as we noted the regularity of their characteristic + differences. After a few visits I used to glissade down the icy Ramp, + though I could never see when I had reached the bottom, for in the + dark you cannot distinguish a vertical from a horizontal plane of ice. + + “We had service on the 2nd of July. With our three chief songsters + Crozierwards, there is less harmony. I followed Day in the hymns, and + he afterwards confessed that he had forgotten the tune; so my help was + not valuable! Meantime Simpson had a duet in the corner with Wright. + ‘Twenty-one, twenty-two, twenty-three’ ... etc.; he counted the + seconds through the ’phone to Wright, who was cussing the stars + outside. The only accompaniment we had now that Cherry was away was + the telephone bell. + + “The combination would have been ludicrous if it hadn’t been + necessary, for Wright had to abide by the transits of the stars, and + they occurred service or no service.” + + The most noteworthy feature in the Hut was a strong propensity to + argument. I think Nelson and myself were the chief offenders, as we + disagreed on every topic under the sun, and let each other (and also + the rest of the Hut) know the reasons! I remember one cag resulted + from a night-watch supper. About this time I used to watch from 8 p.m. + till 2 a.m., and “Marie” Nelson from 2 till 8 a.m. We went shares in + the supper. + + Here follows a verbatim report of an argument whose only merit is its + accuracy and representativeness. + + + _Scene_: Breakfast in the Hut, July 3, 1911. + + _G. T._ (grabbing a fragment). “This isn’t your bread, Teddy?” + + _Teddy Evans._ “Yes, it is.” + + _G. T._ “Chuck over a bit in your lily-white fingers, Marie!” + + _Marie._ “Now _that’s_ what I call a well-cut piece of bread. It’s + symmetrical about its axis.” + + _G. T._ “Why don’t you call it by its crystallographic name? It’s an + _enantiomorph_!” + + _Marie_ (mentally broken up, but stubborn!). “You’re taking refuge as + usual in long, meaningless words; anyhow, that’s a rotten word; _ante_ + is Latin and _morph_ is Greek. You don’t know _how_ to cut bread.” + (Then he proceeded to explain how I maltreated the loaf of our + combined night-watch supper.) + +[Illustration: The Night-Watch Supper 3·7·11] + + _G. T._ “I know no one else is interested, but I don’t see why _I_ + shouldn’t bore them also! (Loud cheers.) That bread crust projected + six inches, and I only ate the overlap. You’ve had all your own + suppers, and mine too, all the winter, you miserable, cynical + reactionary. Anyhow, _enantiomorph_ is _all_ Greek, and means + ‘mirror-reflection.’ So it just suits the case.” + + (Marie subsides, the Owner pushes off to his cubicle, and I proceed to + tease Ponting. Then the cag is continued in my bunk by Marie _solus_, + until I cry _pax_.) + + And that’s how the long winter night passes! + + “_July 4._—Have just been ragging ‘Silas’ Wright as an American (?) on + this auspicious day. Whereupon he fell upon me and succeeded in + tearing my pocket. It is a snorting day. Wind fifty miles per hour and + temperature −29° F. I went out for a few minutes with bare hands, and + it took me about five minutes in the Hut to get them right. Yet it is + warmer than yesterday, when bare hands were possible. The wind does + it.” + +[Illustration: + + SNOWDRIFT ON CAPE EVANS SHOWING THE DEEP EDDY ON THE WINDWARD SIDE, + SEPT. 9, 1911. + + The drifts all lie on the south sides of the kenyte boulders. Four + miles to the south appears Tent Island. +] + +[Illustration: + + DEBRIS CONES ON LAND’S END (ONE MILE SOUTH OF THE HUT), SEPT. 9, 1911. + + Each is 30 feet high and due to the weathering of a huge boulder of + kenyte. In these two specimens the process is only half complete, + the core of the erratic still remaining. Erebus Glacier on right. + + [See p. 291. +] + + We finished the day with the most exciting experience of the winter. + Life in the Hut, as will have been gathered, was comfortable enough, + and with such splendid mates, I felt it so pleasant that I had to keep + on reminding myself that I was in Antarctica in the middle of the long + night. Yet occasionally, as on this day, Nature warned us that she was + not to be trifled with. + + Atkinson and I went off to read Bertram, leaving about 4 p.m. There + was quite a lot of drift, and we soon lost sight of the Hut, but + luckily there was no mistaking the Ramp. The end of my nose was nipped + with −25° F. and the gale of wind. (You can apparently feel something + “go with a ping,” just as if the blood froze in the end of your nose.) + Anyhow, it soon got warm again when covered by my mit. It was worse on + top, and we soon lost sight of all rocks and cones. The wind kept + fairly steady and we steered by that. After about half an hour I + counselled return, and we turned back to regain our bearings, and + after being out an hour and a half we found Bertram. The fusees which + we carried just burned long enough to read the temperatures (minimum, + −38°, maximum, −25°). + + We reached the Hut about 6 p.m., and my task was over. Atkinson was so + pleased with our success that he decided to go off 800 yards to + Archibald. I tried to dissuade him, but he said he’d be back in twenty + minutes, and would just return _against the blizzard_, and so couldn’t + miss the Hut—or at any rate Cape Evans, which extended a quarter of a + mile each side of the Hut. + + Gran also started to go to “Clarence” about the same time, but + realized it was impossible, and managed to find Cape Evans again, + though quite at the wrong place. + + About 7 p.m. Nelson and I went out to have a look round for Atkinson. + It was very thick but not blowing so hard. We informed Scott of his + absence, and he immediately organized search parties, realizing better + than we could the seriousness of the event. Atkinson had been out an + hour, and we could not imagine what had happened. Day took up tins of + oil to the top of Cape Evans, and burnt great flares every few minutes + for hours. Debenham, Gran, and I walked along the top of the low + cliffs on the Cape with candle lamps. + +[Illustration: + + Lost in the blizzard, July 4, 1911. +] + + We felt sure that he must have got to the coast, for it stretches for + thirty miles along the east, and that he was perhaps sheltering in + some cranny. We formed a long chain from Cape Evans to Inaccessible + Isle, and it was only by marking an arrow in the snow that I could + remember which way safety lay. For the wind had died down, but the + thick drift and the benumbing cold made us more and more anxious as no + news came in. From 8.30 till 10 p.m. the blizzard was blowing again, + and we began to feel hopeless. Captain Scott arranged for two sledge + parties: one, under Lieutenant Evans, went south along the Glacier + cliffs for six miles; the other, with Seaman Evans, went north to + Shackleton’s Hut. They carried tents and sleeping-bags. Wright went + round the cliffs of Inaccessible Island. Ponting and I searched the + Cape Barne glacier. We thought he must have fallen into a tide crack + or sprained his ankle, for now the moon began to show a bit, and at 11 + p.m. it was clearing somewhat. We could see Day’s huge flares on the + cape from a distance of several miles. Just as we reached the big + cliff of Barne Glacier two rockets went up, and we knew that he was + found. We learned that Atkinson was quite dazed, though he had got + back entirely unassisted, and had not seen any one until he reached + the Cape Evans cliffs and saw Debenham above him. His right hand was + badly frostbitten, with huge blisters on each finger—just like a + condor’s crest. + +[Illustration: + + “BLIZZOMETER RECORD” DURING THE SEARCH FOR ATKINSON, JULY 4, 1911. +] + + He had walked off towards Archibald with the blizzard, but halfway + there turned back, feeling it foolish to persist. He got back quite + safely to the tide gauge, which was only a stone’s throw from the hut. + Then he was completely lost. The wind had dropped somewhat. He tried + to keep it full in his face; and, perhaps, owing to eddies around the + cape, he must have wandered due west away from the hut and towards the + open sea. After some hours of helpless wandering, where he had to keep + moving to prevent his freezing to death, he came to some high cliffs. + He thought these might be the walls of Inaccessible Island, but there + is little doubt that he had wandered south now, and was skirting Tent + Island. He tried to burrow into the snowdrifts here, and so got his + hand badly frostbitten. Then the moon showed faintly, and he owed his + life to the fact that he remembered to have seen the moon over Erebus + (and therefore east) on the preceding night. So he staggered towards + the moon, and after about an hour and a half he reached Cape Evans, + and was safe. We had imagined that the blizzard, constantly blowing + from the south, would have enabled him to steer east to the coast; + but, owing to lulls and to eddies, and finally to his dazed condition, + he lost all sense of direction, and would have undoubtedly perished + but for the moon. The search parties got in by 2 a.m., and then the + blizzard fury increased nearly to gale strength, and continued all + next day. It was only during the six hours while Atkinson was lost + that it lulled sufficiently to permit of any one venturing away from + land. If it had kept up to its original or final strength, we might + easily have had other casualties in the search parties. + + The recital of dreams, as furnishing outside interests of a sort, was + occasionally tolerated in the hut. I wonder if most people go through + my dream evolution? As a child, a feeling of terror, often that + primitive idea of falling and never hitting anything, which is a + survival of tree life. Later, the growth of a belief that the dreamer + himself never gets hurt. And then in the late ’teens the comfortable + realization that it’s only a dream, to be followed by “dreams within + dreams”; and, finally, at the age of thirty by logical reasoning while + dreaming. + + I noted that we had been south six months before I began to dream of + snow and ice, and this perhaps is of psychological interest. In one + dream “I was climbing up above Grindelwald, aided by a New Zealand + guide, in company with Dr. Bill. We got ‘bushed’ on a high peak near a + hay-stack. I had a talk with Dr. Bill, in which I said that I had + dreamt that the guide was going to take us down an easy way, which he + wanted to keep dark, as he’d discovered it and wanted to keep it for + _rich_ tourists. We both smiled at this fool dream. Then I really + awoke, and I suppose my sub-conscious self is still smiling on + ‘Haystack Mountain’ in the Grindelwald!” + + The ponies were snugly housed in the stable along the lee side of the + hut. Their stable was built of the blocks of compressed fuel, and was + quite a snug abode. They were rather vicious little beggars, and a + walk down the narrow “aisle” meant a risk of a bite or a kick. Oates + and Meares spent a lot of time in the stable making blubber and seal + pemmican for the dogs. The western party had nothing to do with the + ponies, for only those who were leading the ponies _south_ were + responsible for exercising them. In midwinter some “fearful wild fowl” + took cover in their shaggy coats, and occasioned Captain Oates much + trouble. + + I noted this in my journal as follows— + + + “Baron Bernard du Day, Messenger from Captain Titos _Oates_. + + “Greetings to _Debenham_. + + “Wilt thou peril thyself so far as to visit the stable, and for + payment of one straight-cut cigarette an hour, comb the manes of ye + Siberian ponies to catch ye intrepid and adventurous louse? + + “Debenham meekly leaves his rock sections, and hies him hence!” + + + Some of the game from the Pony Coverts was exhibited by Atkinson under + his microscope. They resembled white ants in wind-helmets! No legs + appeared in the specimen, so I asked if they had been worn off in the + chase, but the indignant exhibitor was silent. + + During the autumn another grotto had been added to our outlying + villas. This had been cut out in the glacieret to house Wright’s + pendulums. We called it the “Cave of Pendullum.” It was usually + drifted up, and we had to cut down to the sacking door, being careful + not to chop the telephone wires. Inside, in one corner, was the + telephone box, well crusted with ice, through which he could hear the + ticking of the sidereal clock in the hut. There was also a delicate + apparatus from the Cavendish Laboratory at Cambridge to register the + “ionization of the air,” and a microscope and micro-camera. On an ice + bench was the chief instrument, a stand carrying four short pendulums. + Each was mounted on an agate knife-edge, and was surmounted by a + mirror. The time of swing of these pendulums was very delicately + measured, and gave the _pull of gravity_ at Cape Evans, thus leading + to an estimate of the shape of the earth. + + This account is somewhat brief, and this is explained in my journal as + follows: “This description has been greatly interrupted by the + irruptions and incursions of the Anti-Feminist, who _will_ pour out + his antiquated views on ‘Woman’s Mission in Life’ into the unwilling + ears of Debenham and myself. His only semi-sane argument is, that as + all laws rest on an appeal to force, and as men are physically + stronger than women, therefore men must protect, must rule, and + (apparently) therefore must control and administer all the laws! The + rest is pure selfishness.” + + Tuesday (11th July) was Jam Day, as I write with glee. There are two + articles of diet to which I am not particularly addicted, and they are + cheese and sardines. We got cheese _solus_ for four lunches a week, + and sardines every night-watch. So that I used to reckon by Tuesdays! + I proceeded to translate German glaciology as usual, but unfortunately + Debenham and Nelson started a cag on the merits or demerits of + Australian tennis champions; and when that was over we had another as + to which was the worst storm in the _Terra Nova_. Nelson said it took + place off Cape Town, Wright said off St. Paul, Atkinson said south of + New Zealand. All this talk occurred in our cubicle, and as Debenham + and I had not experienced the two earlier excitements, we were not + violently interested, and tried to push the debaters out, with + complete lack of success. I did very little German! + + On the 12th of July we had a record blizzard. For over twelve hours + its mean velocity was above forty miles per hour, and it rose above + seventy miles per hour at 9.15, 11.15, and 5.30. At 9.15 p.m. it + fairly boomed over the hut. Luckily the hut is so surrounded by + “lean-tos” and great snowdrifts that the wind is led gradually on to + the Hut, else it would surely have blown us into the sea. + + This blizzard was accompanied by relatively high temperatures. It + roared all that day, but after lunch, on 13th, I write: “... it is + getting cooler; none of that oppressive heat of +8° F. (24 degrees of + frost), and is now much nicer (-7°); so that the leaks have stopped, + after damping Gran’s mattress considerably.” The lunch was evidently + cheese, so that I confined my attention to brown bread, dripping, and + cocoa. We were able to leave the Hut in the afternoon, and walked up + to Bertram. Skua Lake was so brilliant, I thought at first it had + melted, but it was merely polished like plate-glass by the furious + drift. + +[Illustration: + + The Twin Glaciers (copied from diary, July 15, 1911). +] + + Teddie Evans had been engaged for some days on plotting the chart of + Dry Valley on the first western journey. He made a fine drawing, with + “form-lines” inserted, so that the shape of the glacial valley showed + up splendidly. Captain Scott, Evans, and myself discussed the naming + of the new glaciers, etc., now first charted. We had given some of + them provisional names on our journey, and the Owner chaffed me + somewhat, but said he didn’t mind a bit. There were two distinct + glaciers included in the Ferrar Glacier, which Scott had named in + 1903. He asked me if the one entering Dry Valley was going to be + described as a type; and I said that its exposed bed was probably + unique in Antarctica. Then he said, “We’ll call it the Taylor + Glacier.” So that on 15th July I became a cartographic entity! + + One of the most interesting paragraphs in the German tome through + which I was laboriously wading tended to show that the world was + approaching another Ice Age rather than leaving it behind. + + In the Swiss Alps the Germans have shown that there were no less than + four Ice Ages included under the last glacial epoch, separated into + three inter-glacial periods. The general temperatures can be obtained + by studying the depression in the snowline and the position of the + moraines in these four Ice Ages. It really looks as if we were now in + an _inter-glacial period_, rather than permanently free from glacial + conditions. However, the next Ice Age is seventeen thousand years off, + even by the lowest computation. + +[Illustration: The future Ice-age 18.7.11] + +[Illustration: + + Similar reversal of the steam banner of Erebus at noon, May 1, 1911. +] + + I was able to make a characteristic sketch of Erebus on the 18th July. + The steam cloud extended across an arc of 90°, and appeared to be + drifting _to_ the south. The banner was possibly a hundred miles long. + On the surface there was a cool southerly wind, in just the opposite + direction. Several fine undulations showed in this banner, and at + times a hummock of steam over the crater pointed to extensive + outbursts of vapour. Far to the south the banner was very faint, and + reminded one of the Milky Way. + + The dawn colours were very beautiful. We were not to see the sun for + over a month, but over his position were belts of crimson lake, dull + red and green, with pale blue above. + + Sometimes the dogs would accompany us up the Ramp. Atkinson and I went + up to read Bertram on the 21st, while Stareek and Tsigane trotted + alongside. The latter is quite sociable, while Stareek, one of the + leaders, is one of the most imperturbable. According to Atch, he has + been seen admonishing Tsigane for his undignified behaviour! + + These walks were good exercise, but the weather was getting colder + (though midwinter was past) and −35° was quite common. My first + occupation on reaching the Hut was to go and hold my head over the + stove. After some minutes the lumps of frozen breath which surrounded + my mouth would melt somewhat, and I was able to free my beard from the + flannel of my helmet! + + After Church service on the following Sunday (23rd), Ponting gave an + exhibition of cinema pictures in his dark room. It was a very select + show, as there was only room for an audience of four! His films were + _negatives_, so that the black and white were reversed. Under these + circumstances the seals appeared white and more slug-like than ever, + while the white shadows following the penguins were most uncanny. + While we were in the dark room Simpson called out that the wind was + still rising. It reached eighty-four miles per hour at 8 p.m., which + was the record during the first winter, though this was easily beaten + in 1912. + + The 26th of July was a splendid day, and without doubt marked the + return of daylight. Simpson and I visited Bertram and were able to + read the thermometers without recourse to fusees. We marched on the + Erebus Glacier some distance, and found numerous pot-holes in it, due + to stones sinking therein. On our return I continued plotting the + chart of the Koettlitz Glacier. Wright is obtaining interesting + results from his ice sections by “rubbings” of the ice striæ with a + soft pencil. These photograph quite well. + + We were well stocked with books in the Hut. Almost every officer had + taken down some standard novels in addition to a few text-books, and + curiously enough there was very little overlapping. For instance + Cherry had a row of Kipling’s works which almost all of us + appreciated, Day had Dickens, Debenham had four or five poets, and + more popular still—a collection of thirty “paper-back sixpennies,” + which every one was always borrowing. He kept them in a box under his + elevated bunk, and I remember one evening after we had turned in, some + one came into our cubicle and started burrowing about. Debenham said, + “Now then, what are you after down there?” A voice replied, “Where do + you keep those sixpenny novels, Debenham?” It was Scott, who couldn’t + sleep, and wanted some light literature! + + I had two or three of Wells, Browning, Tennyson, and “Martin + Chuzzlewit.” However, though _my_ library was small, I used the + official library more than any one! I have mentioned elsewhere the + splendid little library of standard fiction presented largely by Mr. + Reginald Smith. This consisted of about 250 portable volumes published + by Smith, Elder and Co., and by Nelsons. There were Merriman’s, + Brontë’s, and Conan Doyle’s, and all the shilling editions of + noteworthy books by authors like Gosse and Belloc. Mr. Mackellar gave + us many other volumes, especially some small art books. These lived in + Day’s bunk. Then Admirals Markham and Beaumont presented us with many + rare copies of books on Polar Exploration. These were constantly being + read, especially by Bowers, whose lectures on sledging rations and + polar clothing led him to read every word. Candidly I must admit that + it was not cheering—when the blizzards were booming over the hut and + all was dark around us—to read of Greeley’s awful suffering in the + Arctic, where forty out of fifty men perished; or of the loss of the + _Jeannette_ and her crew in Siberia; but still the volumes were always + being referred to by one or other of the officers. + + We had several larger books, Haydn’s “Dictionary of Dates,” which + didn’t seem to be much troubled, and Harmsworth’s Encyclopedia, which + was always in demand. Cherry had the large _Times_ Atlas, and we had + Paul’s “History of the 19th Century,” and Harmsworth’s “History of the + World.” Oates brought along Napier’s “Peninsular War,” and rarely + seemed to read or need aught else. I had a bet with him that I would + finish Paul’s six volumes before he had read through Napier. However, + neither was completed, though Oates was a long way ahead! Scott had a + shelf of poets and a number of foreign novelists, chiefly Russian and + Polish. + + I had finished all the lighter literature in about three months, and + thereafter was able to advise some of the others as to works meriting + their fleeting attention! It occurred to me that it would be amusing + to try and discover the tastes of the fifteen officers of the hut. + Books were naturally often discussed. Oates must have been reading + some of Merriman, for I find that Simpson took exception to his praise + of the latter’s works on meteorological grounds! This seems rough on + Merriman; but Simpson said it was not possible to see the _midnight + sun_ at Tver, and he also objected to the wrong use of the word + _parhelion_. I’m afraid I’d missed these “professional errors,” but I + remember what seemed a serious flaw to _me_ in Davis’ “Soldiers of + Fortune” (otherwise a rattling yarn), was the author’s weird + geological description in the first chapter! Similarly we expected + Captain Scott and Seaman Evans to revel in Kipling’s sea yarns, + whereas they were not enthusiastic. Both made the same criticism; + Evans saying that there seemed to be a lot made about a little, and + that, “anyway things isn’t so concentrated-like in the Navy!” + + I hope living authors, if they ever read this, will rise superior to + our criticism! Debenham didn’t like “Kipps”; in fact, except for + Wright I couldn’t get a word in favour of Wells. Even Nelson, who + liked reading “Anne Veronica,” declared it was a piece of satire from + beginning to end, in which Wells was obviously gibing at his readers! + The only book Nelson and I liked in common was Gissing’s “Born in + Exile,” and I grieve to state that the “Owner” characterized this as + “Tosh!” “Richard Yea and Nay” is loved by Debenham. I couldn’t read + it, and declared it was not free from gross errors. (_Pace_ Hewlett!) + Challenged thereon, I said I had visited the castle at Gisors, and + that it was still a well-preserved ruin, whereas in the novel it is + “_razed to the ground_.” This, of course, led to a cag on the meaning + of the word _razed_, in which all the hut took part, and I’ve no + recollection as to who was supposed to have won! Any Canadian novel + that was appreciated by one man, would be caustically slated by + Wright. I think we were all better at criticism than appreciation. + Chambers’ “Fighting Chance” was damned “because the hero kisses a girl + under water”! + + However, as a result we began to get some idea as to each other’s + tastes in literature. I was a sort of referee, in that Ponting, Day, + Debenham, Wright, and Simpson, would sometimes read a book on my + recommendation, while Meares, Oates, and Nelson, always went for what + I didn’t like! + + We had very strong winds about this time, and were very anxious to + know how the Cape Crozier party were progressing. They were due back, + and had had awful weather judging by our experience. On the 29th + Atkinson and I made our usual excursion up the Ramp to “Bertram.” + There was no drift, but the wind rose to fifty miles per hour at + times. We could hardly keep up on the ice, and I was actually blown + bodily off the little cone on which Bertram was erected. Later we went + out to “Archibald,” letting the wind blow us there. Scott said he saw + us start, and when he looked again in a few minutes we “were mere dots + on the horizon!” + + But it was not so easy getting back, and I only managed it by bending + double and watching our outward tracks. + + On the 1st of August I went on night-watch at 8 p.m. Most of the men + were turning in, when Hooper called out, “Here’s the Cape Crozier + party.” So we all rushed out and there were the three of them. Cherry + staggered in looking like nothing human. “He had on a big nose-guard + covering all but his eyes, and huge icicles and frost stuck out like + duck’s bills from his lips! They had been away five weeks and a day, + and it had been hell all the time practically. After leaving Meares + and Sunny Jim, they had pushed on and camped four miles this side of + the 1902 Hut. The next day they camped on the Barrier. There had been + but little snow on the sea-ice, though a snowdrift led them up on to + Barrier. Here awful soft snow began, and it was very cold. They had to + relay most of the way, and sometimes even with one sledge they could + hardly get a move on. It was like pulling in soft sand, and often they + only seemed to be marking time. + + “It took them three weeks to get to Cape Crozier, and they remained + there ten days. They were unable to get any blubber and had to return + when only one tin of oil was left. Blizzards held them up off Mount + Terror, and here Birdie is credited with sleeping three days and + nights (bar meals). The other two didn’t! They spent three days + building a stone igloo, and pitched the tent to leeward. A tremendous + blizzard came up and blew their tent away! They had now a poor chance + of getting back, and proposed to dig snow holes each night and cover + themselves over with the floor cloth. Luckily they found the tent a + quarter of a mile away, just on top of the sea cliff! They had camped + just south of the big cliff under which we had rowed in January, 1911. + + “All the ice blew off the Ross Sea with the force of the blizzard. + They were only able to get down to the Emperor penguins on one day. + These were nesting—if such it can be called—on a piece of old sea-ice + between the cliffs of Cape Crozier and the high Barrier Ice. They had + to crawl down between the Barrier and the Rock Cliffs, and here Birdie + stuck as his clothes had frozen so stiff! There were only a hundred + penguins there, instead of 1000 as they had expected. They spent two + hours getting down and could only carry away six eggs, of which three + broke. Cherry says his mits were made warmer thereby! The temperature + was down to −77° F. (a sledging record) and often below −60° F. Their + sleeping-bags froze stiff, and they couldn’t roll them up, while + Cherry’s was too big and never thawed except where he touched it; + moreover, they tore badly when they were getting into them. + + “On their return they could only make one mile on the first day, and + Birdie went down a crevasse to the length of his harness. They managed + to get him up by a bowline on the alpine rope. On the last three + nights Cherry said that no one slept. They used to doze on the march + and over their meals, but were too cold in the bags. On emerging from + their tents they had to be careful to hold their heads as they would + bear them later, for their clothes froze and held them like a coat of + mail!” + + About three miles to the south lay _Tent_ Island; so called because in + 1904 the men cutting a canal through the ice had their tent there. + Atkinson and I walked over there early in August, to see if we could + find his belt, which he had lost on July 4th. I carried a plane-table + to continue my survey of these islands. It was extraordinary to see + footprints in the gravel, which must have been made by Priestley in + 1907, though they looked as fresh as my own. + + We visited Clarence on our return, and found it to be much less + imposing than Archibald or Bertram. Merely a little box at sea-level, + containing two thermometers, but no stand or cairn. It was getting + gloomy and we just returned in time, for Atkinson’s feet were pretty + well gone in his old finnesko. + + It is a queer fact that both Atkinson and myself dreamed that the Cape + Crozier party were returning on the night before they arrived. In _my_ + dream I modestly went out and pulled their sledge back. However, I + don’t think we published their approach on the strength of these + dreams, else we might have claimed some credit for our superior + intelligence! + + When there was no wind it was quite pleasant strolling about by the + light of the moon. In the long winter night it was cheering to realize + that we could tell _where_ the sun was even if we hadn’t seen him for + over three months, for the moon’s brighter face of course points to + the sun. This comforting deduction led to the following astronomical + effusion in _S.P.T._:— + + THE ERRANT SUN. + + Throughout the night, + Nor life nor light, + E’er chases gloom away; + But still the moon + Foretells full soon, + Arrival of the day. + For each bright ray + Shot to the day, + By Luna’s silver bow, + Transfixes straight + Her lucent mate, + The errant sun below. + + I wrote at the foot for Dr. Bill’s edification— + + “If your artist can rise to the occasion will he please illustrate + this poem (_sic_) with a sketch?” and to this note there hangs a tale + as shall appear later. + + Wright and I went off for a tramp towards Inaccessible Island. We came + across some of the queer snow stalactites which I called “Cold Feet.” + They were due to snow collecting on the ends of icicles where they + were somewhat sticky. The snow built out a “foot” to windward, and + they looked exactly like long white stockings. + + Near the big icebergs Gran pointed out to us an Emperor penguin and + yelled to us to kill it. On approaching it, however, it objected + strongly, having legs and arms and answering to the name of Lieutenant + Evans! + + The pressure of the sea-ice had raised great ridges of ice around + Inaccessible Island. Some cakes of ice were most precariously perched + on the top of these six-foot hummocks. The queer structures resulting + from the buckling and cracking of this six-foot thick sheet of ice + reminded the geologists very strongly of the type diagrams used to + illustrate the major folds and earthquake cracks in the earth’s crust. + + On the 4th of August we made a real start for the summer campaign by + taking the two motor sledges out of their winter quarters. “It was + frightfully heavy work and took about twenty of us to move one a foot. + I wouldn’t care to go over a snow-lidded crevasse in one.” + + Simpson gave us a good lecture on General Meteorology in the + Antarctic. + + I thought Simpson didn’t lay enough stress on the purely _local_ + character of our storms. I said that he reminded me of a minnow living + behind a stone in a big river, wildly excited over every eddy and + paying more attention to them than to the river as a whole. This “cag” + between the scientists greatly delighted certain of the ribald, and + Simpson was referred to as the “minnow in the eddy” for some time + thereafter. + + The usual occupations filled our time during the first fortnight of + August. I was busy mapping the vicinity, translating German geology, + calculating sledge stores, and writing a long article on the Inmates + of the Hut for _S.P.T._ On the 14th I wrote, “To-day is a beautiful + day, with a temperature of −38° F.; but with no wind, so that one can + stay out quite comfortably. It is very light now, for the sun is due + in five or six days. Erebus is very active, and is puffing up big + gouts of steam. Debenham measured one which rose 4000 feet in ten + seconds! The banner then sweeps south and east. It is lit up by the + hidden sun in a most beautiful manner. I say the colour is tawny, Atch + says russet, Birdie burnt sienna, while Bill says it’s a mixture of + vermilion and yellow ochre! Anyway it is very pretty, and Debenham + says he can see inside the crater.” + +[Illustration] + + Through falling into a small crevasse I found some beautiful ice + crystals above the Ramp. Later I turned up some slabs of ice which had + covered old water channels and their lower surfaces were sparkling + with beautiful basket crystals half an inch across. In some cases + these were branched like candelabra. Wright managed to photo some of + them satisfactorily, for unlike our rock collections, _his_ specimens + were extremely fragile and hard to preserve. I renovated my smaller + camera which had suffered so in the gale. After I fitted it with a + simple “flip-flap” tin shutter, this piece of apparatus was always + called the mousetrap. + + By this time most of the diarists had lost their early enthusiasm. The + Owner wrote an hour or two each day. Gran and myself were probably the + most voluminous writers. Debenham, Cherry, Wilson, and Simpson also + kept records; but most of the others affected to despise diaries. + Wright would bring his along once a fortnight, sometime when I was + engaged on mine, and look through it for references to himself. We + often went for a walk together (invariably towards the Erebus + Glacier), so his diary was often something like this— + + Aug. 1.—Went up the Ramp with G. T. + „ 2.—Ditto. + „ 3.—Ditto. + „ 4.—No entry. + + I suggested he should fill in his blank days with “Did _not_ go up the + Ramp with G. T.”! The “illiterate” took a great, if transitory, + interest in our labours. Birdie seeing me stuck for copy on August 13 + sang out, “Write—Turned in, turned out; ditto, ditto. That’ll fill + your diary!” Atkinson assisted as follows: “On night-watch; slept till + 10.30; woke up and was very pleased to see Atkinson, because he’s such + a good fellow!” Cherry’s quota, “We have many cags on scientific + subjects and so acquire much merit.” While Uncle Bill, with a merry + twinkle, added, “And next week we’ll get on to some serious work!” + + I think the seamen enjoyed life in the Hut as much as any of us. The + night watches must have pleased them immensely. To see a weary officer + nodding and shivering all through the night, while they were snugly + rolled in blankets and enjoying an uninterrupted night’s rest, was + just the state of things they would appreciate! As I have noted + already, some of them unconsciously imitated Kipling’s Emanuel Pycroft + in “Bonds of Discipline,” feeling they might never have the + opportunity of reprimanding an officer again, they would pour out + (from the shelter of a bed curtain) the vials of their wrath on any + unlucky watchman who fell over the fire-irons or discomposed their + slumbers! It is fair to state that in the next winter they cheerfully + took on night watches, and were quite equal to reading all the + meteorological instruments. + + The 15th was a rather threatening morning; the wind coming from the + west, which was most unusual. “Debenham says this implies a blizzard. + Every one has a different theory of blizzard forecasting. Mine is + simple! If you’ve had four days fine, you’re sure to get a blizzard! + This works well in winter.” + + “Last night we had an addition to our Antarctic family. Innumerable + pups accrued to us, descendants of our long-haired collie, ‘Lady,’ and + the Siberian dog, ‘Beely-glass.’ They occupy a corner of the stable, + and add life to our ménage. Julik went off some time ago, and is + undoubtedly lost; though it is difficult to see how, unless he got + into a deep crack. The other day Peary and Cook and another dog + (harnessed to the cook’s light sledge) bolted. They tipped Clissold + into the tide crack, and made for Cape Royds. Luckily, Atkinson + managed to catch them. Tsigane, Peary, and Cook are the only dogs I’d + care to take back.” The others were too unsociable, and though by no + means savage when well fed, they were little interested in their + owners’ doings, and exhibited none of the so-called dog-like + affection. + + Wright and I walked south over Cape Evans, and above the curious belt + of moraine, which we called Land’s End. It was pretty cold, for Evans + found the mercury frozen that day at Clarence; but as there was no + wind this did not affect us after the exercise made us warm. Sometimes + one could feel one’s nose “go with a ping,” as if the blood had really + solidified in one’s veins. But vigorous rubbing and nursing in the + warm palm of one’s hand usually restored circulation. As long as one’s + heat energy was abundant there was no risk; but when vitality was low, + through fatigue and hunger, frostbite was certain in any cold + extremity. + + As we walked over the Erebus Glacier we noted numerous circular dark + patches in the ice. These exhibited maze-like patterns (arabesques), + and marked where stones had sunk through the ice. There were no stones + visible on the surface, and no source of supply, so that either these + were very ancient, or else they were due to the effect of the sun on + stones deep buried _in_ the glacier ice. The Land’s End Ridge was a + mile long and only a hundred yards wide. It was most precariously + placed between the glacier and the deep sea, and was perched on a line + of cliffs which were just uncovered by the retreat of the glacier. + + Monoliths of kenyte lava and ash (tuff) were scattered along the + moraine. Great debris cones, capped by huge unweathered blocks of + kenyte, rose to thirty or forty feet high. The Land’s End cliffs + abutted on the crevassed piedmont glacier to the south, and from their + 150 feet elevation we could see the curving crevasses crossing the + glacier, and could determine that the “ice caves” were but these + crevasses seen in vertical section on the ice front. + + To the south extended a fine view of Turk’s Head, and the long + promontory to the Hut Point. We returned towards our hut, and + attempted to reach the sea-ice from the moraine. In the dim twilight + we judged that there was a twenty-foot gully between us and what + looked like an iceberg. When we dropped into it, it was only four feet + deep! So deceptive is a snow surface in the absence of light and + shade. + + The next day was cold again (-35°), and Gran and I climbed + Inaccessible Island. I carried a theodolite, and fixed it on the top + (521 feet). It was awfully cold work. I had to remove my fur gloves, + and my fingers “went” very soon, and standing still made my toes lose + feeling also. By the end of an hour I could do no more, and was so + numb that I could not put the theodolite back properly in its case. My + fingers and toes ached badly all the way home, but had recovered on + arrival. + + I went out to the rubbish pile and commandeered enough material for a + book-binding kit. I bound up some glacial pamphlets into two pieces of + “venesta wood” from a packing case. The rest of the case made the + sewing frame. Two iron clamps, lent me by Simpson, made the press, + while I had found a queer residue in the glue pot, which I used in + default of better. Towelling for head border, and tent cloth for the + back completed it. Next day I wrote _Hoc Pegit_ in what is probably + the first book professionally stitched and bound in boards in + Antarctica. + + Atkinson gave us a clear and concise account of scurvy, from which I + gather that our chances of seeing any are few. + + LECTURE ON SCURVY + + BY ATKINSON + + _History_: Scurvy was a dread disease about the end of the 18th + century. Anson lost 300 out of 500 men from scurvy in 1795, but + about that time Blaine introduced the use of lime juice, and since + then it is practically unknown in our navy. + + _Symptoms_: It is a general non-febrile disease, and not contagious. + It is marked by mental depression, syncope, and debility, and the + morbid blood arising often causes characteristic patches on gums, + thighs, etc., like bruises. Atkinson modestly ascribed the cure to + the Naval Medical Corps (loud cheers!). He said that immunity was + possible, and was assisted by plenty of lemons and other vegetables + (_sic!_). + + _Detection_: Ralph found that if you gave too much acids to animals + they got scurvy, and Wright also believes it is a form of acid + intoxication. Serum is obtained from the clotted blood of the + patient. This should be alkaline in reaction, and its alkalinity is + tested by neutralizing it with various strengths of sulphuric acid. + Thus ¹⁄₃₀ or ¹⁄₅₀ normal strength of acid should be neutralized by + alkaline serum. If only ¹⁄₉₀ normal acid (N)/(90) is necessary to + neutralize, then “you have your scurvy.” + + _Prevention_: Fresh meat alone does not prevent scurvy, since they + had plenty of horse in the siege of Paris, and yet suffered heavily. + Possibly it is too acid. Fresh vegetables seem to contain an + alkaline salt which is helpful, and possibly sodium lactate is a + useful drug. Nansen, however, believed in change of diet as being + very helpful. + + In the discussion Uncle Bill said that many of the symptoms noticed + after sledging were purely due to the lowering of tone. If one entered + upon hut life gradually by living for a day in the annexe you wouldn’t + feel funny feelings in your toes! “I asked if a vegetarian diet would + do down here? We have no fresh vegetables, but we have bread, butter, + cocoa, sugar, jam, porridge, tinned fruit, tinned milk and cheese. (I + lived on a less varied diet in Cambridge, only I still don’t enjoy the + cheese lunches where the pungent stilton stalks around, and the + exclusives have to collect together and wave the phantom off.) Bowers + said that Bill developed spots on his face on the Crozier journey; but + Bill swore they were beard sprouts. Birdie had been nodding a bit, so + I said he was evidently scorbutic, as he exhibited a tendency to + syncope, deposit of fat, and an inflamed head (a cruel hit at his red + hair). Ponting had been listening anxiously to the doctor’s criticisms + of sausages, and various potted meats, and then read us a cable he had + received in November announcing that a friend meant to send a half ton + of sausages by the Relief!” + + On Saturday night (19th August) we experienced the maximum wind + pressure of the winter. “It rose from forty-five miles per hour to + eighty-six miles in one fell shriek.” There was such heavy drift that + it blew through the outer walls (of cases) and filled the annexe. The + temperature had risen astonishingly, for we found “Bertram” + registering +½° F., whereas a day or two before mercury was freezing! + The blizzards were sometimes accompanied by a sort of “foehn” wind + warming affect, and nearly always raised the temperature slightly. + They swept away the stagnant heavy cold air which collected at + sea-level, and which normally surrounded the Hut. + + The 21st of August was a calm, clear day. The sun was due in a day or + two now. Nelson was having some trouble with his soundings at the + “Igloo.” So seven of us marched out to help him free his rope. It was + quite a procession, Nelson going first to fix a block and tackle + (pronounced _taikle_!) on his obdurate rope. Then Atkinson and + Clissold—who worked the fish trap, and so were professionals in such + jobs—walked along in a dignified way. Then long Day on ski, followed + by Debenham also on ski, and causing some amusement by his “croppers.” + Finally, “Trigger” Gran started long after us, and “flapping” along on + his ski easily caught us up. I could easily keep up over a couple of + miles without ski, but over a longer distance there is no doubt as to + the advantage of the ski. We all hauled on the “taikle,” and so broke + Nelson’s rope away from the bottom, where it seemed to have frozen in. + Then dropping the “earth” wire of his telephone circuit into the water + I rang up Simpson in the hut, and heard him with great ease through + the bare aluminium surface wire. + + Debenham and I climbed Inaccessible Isle to try and see the sun first. + We went up by the usual route, but had to kick steps in the thick snow + which now covered the gravel slopes. There is a magnificent windblown + gravel ridge on the lee side of Inaccessible Isle. The blizzards shoot + _up_ the southern face and drop their dust contents beyond the central + notch on the northern slope in the form of a long ridge about fifty + feet high. + +[Illustration: The wind-ridge on Inaccessible Isle, with tracks 21·8·11] + + We obtained a fine view of the western cwm valleys below Mount Lister + from this elevation (520 feet). To the north we could see a bright + glow over the Barne Glacier and good sun shadows on Mount Lister, the + first time for four months! But we did not see the sun’s disc at all. + + The sun was due on August 22, so it was natural that a blizzard should + spoil all chances of seeing him! We took him on trust to the extent of + champagne at lunch, when Scott toasted Lieutenant Campbell’s birthday + also. + + “A snorting blizzard; never saw such thick drift. It wet one, so that + one’s hands froze in no time. None went outside the hut.” + + The table resembled a grocer’s shop from now on, for Birdie started + bagging provisions for the sledge journeys. Pemmican was taken out of + the tins, broken up, and bagged first, and then cocoa, butter, sugar, + in fact everything but biscuit, which was left in the 40-lb. tins as + sent to us. + + “2.30 a.m. on the 24th.—It is now my night-watch, and I have finished + making the slides for my next lecture; I have read M. Beaucaire, had + two slices of toast, gone on the roof and cleaned out the blizzometer + tubes, and washed my feet. The sooner 3.30 arrives (and Nelson with + it) the better! + + “In two months we shall be away on the veldt again. I have lots of + prints to make, and must continue my German and physiography; but I + have done about as much as I intended, and found the winter a very + pleasant and busy time. It is wonderful how exhilarating a fine day + is, though the last few days have been the limit.” + + Next day it was still blizzing, with the temperature up to +11°! The + drift was lower, and Nelson managed to get out to his igloo on the + sea-ice. + + Captain Scott asked Debenham and myself to map Cape Evans in + considerable detail; while Lieutenant Evans carried out the coast + survey and Wright obtained heights and ice-cliff data. As a result + Debenham and I were out with our plane tables fairly continuously in + the next few weeks and got to know almost every rock upon our little + promontory. + + Wright and I climbed the Ramp in our anxiety to see if the sun was + still alive! but without avail. The clouds on Erebus were worthy of + note. During the day huge billows collected to the south below the + summit, and at 7 p.m. these disappeared, and the steam cloud (which + had hardly showed before) shot up several thousand feet and then + spread out as a banner to the _north_. This latter direction was + unusual, as the upper air currents usually went due _south_. + + On our return we found that Simpson had seen the rim of the sun about + 3 p.m. from Wind Vane Hill (at noon it was hidden by the Barne + Glacier), so that the meteorologist was the first to welcome His + Majesty’s return. + + On the 24th I gave a lantern lecture on Polar and Temperate + Glaciation. As usual Ponting kindly made most of the lantern slides + and operated the lantern. Afterwards he showed us some of his + magnificent Swiss slides. + + On the 26th I managed to improvise a satisfactory plane-table from a + telescope tripod and my drawing board. We had a spare sight-ruler, and + with this primitive instrument I successfully mapped my section of + Cape Evans. + + We could always orient on far distant peaks, such as the Matterhorn, + fifty miles north-west; or Castle Rock, twelve miles south; and this + saved a lot of trouble with the usual “three-point resection” method. + I climbed up the Ramp and read “Bertram.” I could see the sun shining + on Inaccessible Isle, and even on Hut Point far to the south, but it + would need to get considerably higher before it illumined the Ramp. + Lieut. Evans was setting up signal flags on the prominent debris + cones, and we returned together _viâ_ the “Slippery Slopes,” Evans + justifying the name! + + “Just before I reached the Hut I felt exactly like Peter Pan, and saw + that I had regained my shadow! I walked up to Wind Vane Hill, and + there was the old sun showing half his disc over Cape Barne Glacier! + About 2 p.m. I went out with the ‘mousetrap’ camera, and took some + photos to celebrate the event. I gave four seconds (with F. 45) on + snow banks, etc., lit by the low-lying sun. This was too much, I + believe, but the photos were fairly satisfactory and worth the trouble + considering when they were taken.” + + Wilson reported some queer algæ deposits above Gully Bay, so we went + off to investigate them. There were two layers (about fifty feet above + the glacieret) in the soft kenyte gravel. I had little doubt that they + were lake algæ which had grown when the water was held in by a larger + ancestor of the present glacieret. Just to the west were beautiful + examples of these ice-dammed lakelets, with “Glenroy terraces” marking + various contours on their shores, just as in the historic Glenroy + region in Scotland. Only in these Antarctic specimens the ice dams are + still evident, whereas their absence in Scotland made the origin of + the Scotch terraces a puzzle for many years. + + I have made frequent mention of the debris cones on the Ramp. Their + origin was often discussed by Scott, Wilson, Debenham, Wright, and + myself. Scott and Wilson believed they were dumped over at re-entrant + angles in a bygone ice-barrier wall. Debenham compared them to the + cones and hollows we had seen over in the western moraines and thought + they were due to the melting of submarine ice. Wright and I believed + them to be due to the weathering of huge erratics. + +[Illustration: + + LAKELETS OF CAPE EVANS, SEPT. 29, 1911. + + Due to glacierets of drifted snow forming across small gulleys. (The + drifts are always blown to the north.) These ice dams explain the + formation of Glenroy Terraces, Scotland. The rugged outcrops of + Kenyte Lava run chiefly east and west. The Tunnel Berg in the + sea-ice appears to the west. +] + + On the 27th Gran and I made the rather obvious test of cutting one + open. It was six feet high and lay just on the edge of the steep slope + of the Ramp, whence all debris would slip down the Ramp and save + cartage. The upper face was a friable dry gravel. We heaved out two + huge blocks the size of a man’s body and found them fitting into other + blocks of the same rock. We cleared away the top portion of one half, + and then came to a huge block evidently extending to the foot of the + cone and right through it. All this was frozen stiff into the kenyte + soil of the Ramp, and it was beyond our powers to shift it. However, + we had definitely proved that this symmetrical cone was solid, and was + piled around a core of kenyte blocks. + +[Illustration: The Dissected Debris Cone, 28·8·11] + + “I met the ‘Owner’ after lunch and introduced him to the ‘dissected + cone.’ He seemed to think it a strong argument in favour of our + long-held theory. Wilson basely hit back at me for upsetting his + argument with a caricature in the _South Polar Times_, which is here + reproduced. + + “The difficulty in disposing of all the instruments needed by a + geological surveyor is also hinted at in the gear encrusting the queer + object on the debris cone.” + + “_August 30._—A cold day, −33° with wind. Natheless, Deb and I went + out about noon plane-tabling. I had finished my stations and carted + the table about, filling in details. But it was mostly a ‘cabman’s war + dance,’ jumping and flapping one’s arms to keep warm. I found that a + great deal of the ice-sheet to the north was only six inches thick + over gravel, the latter appearing in the eddy gutters to the south of + every big boulder. + + “It got too cold to work, but I swore I would stay out as long as + Debenham. Finally, at 1.15, I could stand it no longer, and made a + beeline for the Hut, finding he had returned a minute or two earlier!” + + The next few days were similarly occupied. I made a pantograph (to + reduce or enlarge drawings), and so obtained a fairly accurate plot of + all the sections of our map. The result is given herewith. + + One can readily see some method now in the queer physiographic + features of Cape Evans. It can be subdivided into several zones, which + may be tabulated as follows, proceeding inland (east) towards Erebus:— + + 1. Kenyte cliffs and ridges, of rock _in situ_ (about fifty feet above + sea-level and chiefly to the south and west of the Cape). + + 2. Low-lying plains with lakes about twenty feet above sea-level, due + to erosion and deposition from 1 (chiefly in the north-east of the + cape). + +[Illustration: + + A Peculiar Animal seated on the Top of a Debris Cone. +] + + 3. Glacierets and ice dams running north and south, and due chiefly to + drifts distributed by the southern blizzards. On the low cape and on + the Ramp also. + + 4. The continuous “Ramp”; a steep slope (30°) extending from “Low + Cliff” practically to Land’s End Cliff, i.e. about two miles. It + varies in height from 100 to 150 feet above sea-level. Partly composed + of rock _in situ_ and partly of moraine just uncovered by the + retreating glacier of Erebus. + +[Illustration: + + Physiographic features of Cape Evans, due largely to the retreat of + the Erebus Glacier. +] + + 5. The boulder-strewn plateau parallel to and east of the latter, and + about 150 to 200 feet high. It is largely ground-moraine, but contains + some ancient ice masses, and is affected by soil-creep or solifluxion. + + 6. A zone of large blocks (with ice between) which occurs chiefly in + the north-east, and merges into the Erebus Glacier. Both 5 and 6 + contain numerous debris cones, which are especially large in the + south-east over Land’s End cliffs. + + 7. The continuous Erebus Glacier which extends uninterruptedly from + Cape Barne to Turk’s Head, and walls in Cape Evans to the east. There + is not much movement in it just behind the cape, for there is no ice + “wall” but a gradual merging of rock and ice. + + My diary proceeds as follows:— + + “_September 1._—I fear I must give this a miss. Titus Oates says, ‘You + were probably caulking and coughing, or blatting. But if the latter + you’d remember!’ (These rude words refer to a slight cough that + worried me at this time. ‘Caulking’ is sleeping, and ‘blatting’ is + arguing.) The Conservatives were evidently waking up, for I note one + of Atkinson’s remarks. Colonials go to London and murmur ceaselessly, + ‘Change and decay, in all around I see, Except in me, O Lord, except + in me!’ This misquotation afforded the ‘True-Blues’ (Cherry, Birdie, + Titus, and Atch) great joy about twenty times a day. We Liberals + scorned to use such feeble wit in upholding our principles.” + + The next lecture was one delivered by Birdie Bowers on the Evolution + of Polar Clothing. I took fairly full notes of this lecture, which + represented much reading on Birdie’s part in our extensive library of + Polar journals. + + LECTURE ON “EVOLUTION OF POLAR CLOTHING” + + BY BOWERS. + + _September 1, 1911._ + + There are many fabrics which can be used, for instance, cotton is + very satisfactory for some purposes, as we see in our windproof + overalls. Fur was naturally first used, and Ross, on his magnetic + pole expedition, was the first to employ fur sleeping-bags. Weddell + found boots a great difficulty, and had to cut up all his gear to + make new ones. Some Arctic explorers used blanket squares (sixteen + inches across) instead of socks. One must be careful not to have + boot-soles too rigid, for this induces frostbite. It is curious that + the Eskimo garments leave the skin completely bare at back and knee. + +[Illustration: + + A book-plate illustrating Polar clothing. +] + + Bird-skin clothes are very warm and very light. In one expedition + devices were painted on the backs of the white jackets to give the + men behind something dark to look at, and so minimize + snow-blindness. + + With regard to mits, thumbless gloves are best for very cold + weather. Greely had gloves with two thumbs, so that they could be + used on either hand. + + It is foolish to rub frostbites with snow, for the skin is chafed; + flannel or a bare warm hand, etc., is better. Wool absorbs + perspiration the best of all textures. White cotton does so to only + half the amount. So the latter evaporates quicker, and soon feels + chilly. Nansen says goat-hair socks attract the moisture. “Oh! as + you were!” No, I don’t mean that! (G. T.—I find I’ve omitted the + correction, however!) Personally, I think that an old sock makes an + excellent nose-nip! + + Sverdrup used to use a double tent for warmth with good results. I + think we might modify the tent opening, and make the tent floorcloth + wider. If the sleeping-bags were provided with a separate hood, they + would not get so wet. On our midwinter trip we found that eiderdown + inner bags were no use after fourteen days. It was best to change + sides with the fur bags and scrape them. The hair inside was warmer, + but held the perspiration more. + + The wind helmet should certainly be made fast to the blouse; and I + think lanyards fasten the bag-flaps much better than toggles. These + are the only improvements I can suggest in our clothing. + + The seamen played six-handed euchre most evenings, while the two + Russians looked at illustrated papers and turned in somewhat early. + The mess deck used to read the books in the library, and especially + Debenham’s paper-backs. When I ran short I raided their small private + stock. I was assured by Taff Evans that one by Hichens “is no good, + for no one in the mess deck can read it!” Needless to say I did not + always agree with this stalwart board of navy critics. + + On the 8th of September the second volume of _S. P. T._ appeared. + Cherry wrote the Editorial in the best style of the _Times_. Some + eighteen pages were devoted to a skit on life in the Hut, called the + “Bipes.” Its redeeming feature is a series of coloured illustrations + by Uncle Bill. In it I gave a somewhat garbled but recognizable view + of various personalities at headquarters. The tenants of the Diarist’s + Den (i.e. our cubicle) as well as the Conservative party (the + “Bunderlohg”) came in for their share of attention on the part of the + inquisitive rabbit; who is here supposed to observe the habits and + customs of the so-called Bipes. + + Simpson contributed a gruesome account of the decline and fall of the + human race in the last days of the earth’s habitation. The only + panacea seemed to be certain elixirs to be obtained near Mount Erebus. + There was a beautifully illustrated rhyme dealing with the midwinter + party at Cape Crozier. I could never discover who was the writer + unless it was the Owner himself. Simpson’s career was described in a + semi-serious article, “Celebrities in Glass Houses.” There were two + poems called into being by the return of the sun, both due to + Australians. Some one, I suspect Nelson, wove Uncle Bill and myself + into a “nightmare interview.” There were some beautiful photo plates + by Ponting and three of Wilson’s inimitable Egyptian tablets; besides + various cartoons and silhouettes by Wilson and Lillie. + + Guessing at the authors furnished considerable amusement. Even the + astute Nelson fell in! On p. 19 there is a plan of the hut showing + _inter alia_ the engine in one corner. Nelson made the rash statement + that Uncle Bill had drawn it the wrong way round. I immediately bet + him that Bill hadn’t. Nelson went over to the engine and came back + ready to stake his life on it! Then I told him that I had drawn the + plan; so that Bill couldn’t have made a mistake! He proceeded to say + that he would have put me down as the author of the “Bipes,” only I + was so unmercifully described therein; while Simpson amused me by + assuring me that Scott wrote the poem, “The Errant Sun.” I gave the + palm to Nelson’s poem on “Uncle Bill,” “You are old, Uncle William.” + + Captain Scott was now preparing for a fortnight’s sledge-trip over to + the west. He proposed to Simpson that he should take this chance of + some sledging, and so the meteorology was left in my hands. Simpson + kindly coached me in the special minutiæ, and I started the records on + the 11th (before he left), so as to get into swing. + + Nelson gave us a particularly well-illustrated lecture on the 11th on + Invertebrates generally. + + He told us of the pleasant habit of the _hydra_ which turns itself + inside out, and converts its skin into a stomach lining, and _vice + versa_! He discussed the huge arthropod, remarkably like a flea (but + eight inches long), which Meares declared was found in a bunk in the + hut, though Ponting said he obtained it on the beach. + + We envied the Pycnogonids (sea-spiders), which grow an extra pair of + legs in Antarctica, though they have only eight in less strenuous + latitudes. Two more limbs would help us so greatly in sledging! He + called on me to lecture on the corals, and I gave a brief account of + the biology of the forerunners of this family (the _Archeocyathinæ_), + which occur fossil on the Beardmore Glacier. I discussed Darwin’s and + Murray’s theories with special reference to my observations on the + coral reefs of the Great Barrier. Debenham instanced Funafuti—that + coral islet bored by Professor David to show the depth of a reef + formation. Birdie wanted to know why a sea anemone wasn’t a plant? And + some one thereupon asked Nelson if he could explain why a Birdie + wasn’t a cabbage? But this problem proved too difficult for the + lecturer. + + Wilson with his usual kindness was now copying some of my western + sketches and turning them into splendid pen and ink drawings. He spent + many hours coaching me in drawing, but indeed he would always help any + one if it lay in his power. I think what touched some of us as much as + anything was his willingness to take the last and longest hour of any + one’s night-watch! He used to say, “I don’t mind getting up at seven; + I’ll get on with my painting. Just put a kettle on to boil, and wake + me, and then you can turn in!” I’m afraid I took advantage of this, + when my watch lasted through to the morning, though usually I shared + it with Nelson. + + About this time Scott and Bowers spent their leisure in photographic + work. Ponting was untiring in coaching them, and the excellent results + obtained by these absolute tyros on the southern journey speaks well + for teacher and pupils. Bowers handed over the pony “Chinaman” to + Wright, who “gets run away with, with great regularity.” Cherry was + typing out those sections from the “Heart of the Antarctic” which + would help Scott in his southern journey. + + On the 15th of September Captain Scott set out for a trip to the + Ferrar Glacier and thereabouts. They carried about 200 lbs. of food + for us to Butter Point, where we were to pick it up later. Nelson and + I helped them along for three miles, though the party, consisting of + Scott, Bowers, Simpson, and Taff Evans, needed us little. It was −40° + starting, but luckily there was no wind. A big shear crack about two + and a half miles out marked a permanent crack in the sea-ice extending + between Inaccessible Isle and Cape Royds. It had developed into a + fractured wall, as much as ten feet high in places, where the floes + ground together, and gave us some trouble. However, Nelson and I were + able to steady the sledge and guard the sledge-meter, and so they soon + negotiated it. + + On the 17th of September we actually had a “fine bright sun, so that + films of snow melt on the black rock.” This is an interesting date, + for though the air temperature was only +7°—that is, twenty-five + degrees below freezing!—yet the radiant heat from the black rock + produced a little water. + + Let us accompany the meteorologist, and see how a first-class weather + station is run at 77½° S. lat. The weather man has to rise about an + hour before the others. (It was pleasant to see Sunny Jim lying in his + bunk till 8.30 on the 14th—as he pathetically put it—for the first + time since he’d landed!) I find I am dressed five minutes too soon, so + I hit Wright with a book to get him up in time to check the + chronometers, which is his “pigeon”! + + 1. When I hear the automatic signal I have to fly around and mark all + the recording instruments to show exactly eight o’clock on their + charts. + + 2. I read the large standard barometer and its attached thermometer. + + 3. Change the chronograph papers and put ink on the pens, for the + blizzometer, thermograph, barograph, and wind velocity charts. (In all + these chronograph drums the “clock” part (carrying the paper) revolves + about the central axle—which is just the opposite of an ordinary + clock!) + + 4. Wind up the various chronograph clocks (once a week, on Monday). + + Then I muffle myself in wind clothes and gloves, and collect the gear + for the outdoor apparatus. + + A. A clock set to nearest half-minute. + + B. Sunshine paper for the record burnt by the glass ball. + + C. Tablet and pencil. + + 5. I stagger up to the top of Wind Vane Hill—a long operation and a + cold one in September, for it is not far from August, the coldest and + roughest month. At a definite minute I read the anemometer figures + alongside the anemometer cups. + + 6. Then I press four times on a button alongside, and this is + electrically transmitted to the record in the hut, and so gives a + datum each day on that record. + + 7. I walk across to the screen and read the three + thermometers—present, maximum, and minimum. Then I readjust the two + latter and read again. + + 8. By this time three minutes have elapsed, and I return a few paces + to the anemometer and read the latter figures again. (This gives the + revolutions in three minutes, and therefore the velocity per hour at + that time. This is another check on the automatic record.) + +[Illustration: G.T. Robinson Anemometer] + + 9. Read the wind direction from the arrow on the hill, and note the + steam-cloud direction on Erebus. + +[Illustration: Sunshine Recorder.] + + 10. Change the blue paper in the sunshine recorder and clean the glass + sphere. This is an awful job, for the frost crystals cling like glue + to the five-inch glass ball, and have to be melted off by rubbing with + the bare hands. A slow and painful job at −40°! + + 11. Read the outside thermometer at the south-east corner of the hut, + just below the anemometer tubes. + +[Illustration: + + A FINE STEAM CLOUD BLOWING SOUTH FROM EREBUS, SEPT. 19, 1911. + + The illustration shows also the station on Wind Vane Hill. The + thermometer screen on the left, the flagstaff and the wind + instruments on the right. One anemometer is rotating; the other is + blocked (for the photo). +] + +[Illustration: + + A GLACIERET NEAR ISLAND LAKE (C. EVANS) DUE TO WINDBLOWN SNOW, SEPT. + 23, 1911. + + The blizzard builds and also prunes these small glaciers. In the + distance are the debris cones on the ramp and the south-west slopes + of Erebus. +] + + Each morning at 8.15 I used to predict the weather, as I went out to + Wind Vane Hill. This was received with great joy by the mess deck. + Crean was especially congratulatory. I have explained my method—_i.e._ + “that after four days’ calm it’s certain to blizz;” and it worked as + well as most weather rules. However, even when this standby failed, + Crean was always consoling. At last the other seamen got nettled. “Go + on, sir! he’s only kidding; he wants your long sea-boots when you + return!” It was “cupboard love,” I fear! + + On Thursday (21st) I believe the wind was blowing seventy miles per + hour when I reached the screen. The temperature was pretty high (-7°), + but a wind that nearly blew me away soon robbed one of one’s bodily + heat. My fingers took about ten minutes to “come back,” and only by + degrees lost their dead feeling, though they did not reach the dead + white colour of bad frostbites. + + The early morning sun was throwing fine earth shadows, which moved + round quite rapidly. Thus on the 24th, at 8 a.m., Erebus cast a shadow + right over the western mountains, while at 9 a.m. the shadow could be + seen to the south-west of Erebus itself. + + Debenham had been doing long-distance geology! He fixed up a telescope + and trained it on the south slope of the crater of Erebus. He could + see hundreds of snow structures on the side, each representing the + vent of a “fumarole” from which steam was issuing. This side of Erebus + must resemble a gigantic pepper-box! + + Inside the hut Day was doing some ingenious turning. His lathe was + certainly unique! Many of the hardwood rollers for the motor sledges + needed renewal. So he attached a block of hardwood to the flywheel + shaft of the oil-engine, and he sat on the floor and, using a box as a + tool-rest, he turned out rollers quite successfully, if not very + rapidly. + + The morning of the 24th was quite clear, so I got my camera into + working order, only to find the sky clouding over for a blizzard so + soon as I ventured out, about noon. Ponting was lost for about two + hours in the thick fog in the evening. We fired off guns, and it + looked as if Atkinson’s mishap was to be repeated. However, luckily he + had a compass, and so got back to the hut quite safely in the end. + + The weather was hopeless, and the coast survey party very sensibly + returned to await better conditions. The following scurrilous rhyme + pinned to Gran’s diary affected them not a whit:— + + “Three bold explorers hied them forth + For to explore the plain; + Although so bold, + They found it cold, + So hied them home again!” + + Next day was again gloomy and cold. It took me ten minutes to rub the + sunshine ball clean. The record for yesterday showed clearly the + sudden cessation of sunshine about noon, just when I was ready to use + my camera. + +[Illustration: 27.9.11 My contribution to Polar Clothing! “Taylor’s +Patent Heel-tips”] + + Every one was now busy with sledging outfit. Bernard Day and Cherry + each gave me thin gloves for my forthcoming theodolite work; Hooper + washed some of my clothes, and kindly sewed a huge pocket on the + jersey. One great improvement was to my socks. I sewed canvas + heel-tips to most of them, cut out of my specimen bags, of which I had + more than I required. + + Clissold had boiled Oates’ famous home-made canvas breeches, and + scrubbed blubber out of them for an hour. He donned them with joy, and + they now hung in graceful folds in place of being as stiff as + stove-piping. Every one laughed when he was caught solemnly dancing to + the pianola in them! + + The one great lack on our previous journey had been strong soles to + our boots. “Titus electrified us by saying that he had a stock of + hobnails. I offered him five pairs of socks for them, or anything he + liked. He enjoyed this hugely, and finally said, ‘Well, I’m interested + in a military magazine. If you’ll write a five-page article on + “Physiography for Soldiers,” you can have them!’ I agreed willingly; + but my visions of a boxful were unfulfilled. There were barely enough + for two soles. + + “The western trippers returned early on the 29th. They had finished up + with a stiff day, doing twenty miles in very bad weather. They had got + across in two days and four hours. The depôt on Butter Point was + invisible, bar one tin! No staff or flag. They dumped our two cases on + top. (Birdie counsels taking an extra tank for biscuits.) The Owner + thinks the south tongue of the Ferrar is due to a tributary glacier, + but they didn’t go near it. Then up to the Cathedral Rocks. Here they + found an apparent movement of a foot in C. S. W.’s stakes. Of course + the glacier _must move_ to keep the end of the tongue stationary + (_i.e._ ablation replaced), but this is an important amount of + corroboration. Then they returned and coasted round to Dry Valley. + There is a huge ice-foot here, probably preserved by the sheltered + position of these cliffs. They climbed up the Kukri Hills near where + Evans and I put Station I., and saw the Taylor Glacier, etc., quite + well. Then across to Cape Bernacchi. Here they got some kenyte and + were much bucked, but we also got much of it further west in Dry + Valley. They marched about twenty miles north and saw a huge berg. + This had a stake on it, and ‘B. A. E. Expedition’ on a board. They + found it was our glacier tongue, which had drifted across to this + position, about seventy miles to the north-west! Beyond was Dunlop + Island, sixty feet high and half a mile long. Many rolled pebbles on + it and raised beaches. The Owner got a good specimen of granite, + showing rounded erosion above and angular below, where it was bedded + in the beach. + + “Near here there was a cliff of schist-limestone with quartz veins, + and here the Owner got a strong vein of copper pyrites. The adjacent + limestone (or marble) they thought was quartz. This has a blackish + mineral in it, perhaps copper glance. Then they returned to Marble + Point and then in a beeline to the Hut. They were caught two days in a + blizzard and had an awful time getting up the tent. Sunny Jim was + nearly frostbitten holding up the poles. + + “The Owner didn’t think we could retreat over the shore, for it + consisted of ice slopes with crevasses. But there are so many bergs + there that he was sure that an ice margin would form there quickly; + and he thought we could count on reaching Hut Point by April 1....” + (As will be seen later, the sea-ice broke up quite abnormally; and we + should not have got round till next spring if we had not retreated in + February over the ice slopes. Atkinson tried this journey in April, + just as Scott suggested, and found it impossible! which is but one + more illustration of the irrationality of Antarctic conditions.) + + Now that the sun was back again, it was very enjoyable to tramp round + our headquarters and “snap” pictures with the camera. I realized more + than ever that a geologist is _always_ in a position to enjoy nature. + In civilized regions a botanist may run him close, but down south the + former would have a poor time, whereas there are always rocks or ice, + even in Antarctica. The snow ridges were most beautiful objects, all + lying on the northern (lee) side of various projections. For instance, + a great promontory of snow jutted out over the sea-ice from the + Northern Glacieret, and clearly marked the origin of the latter, as + consolidated snowdrift. A little further the sea-ice at low tide, + evidently bumped on to a great boulder, and the ice was cracked and + bent into a low dome, exactly as a granite boss is supposed by + geologists to crack the earth’s crust. Beyond this the snow cornice + due to blizzard drift was busy bridging the tide crack, and this + accretion from one side, gradually extending to the other, led to a + theory of crevasse-bridges, which explains the greater thickness in + the centre of such bridges. + + The sculpturing of the kenyte boulders was most remarkable. Just + behind the hut was a quaint boulder, carved by wind and frost into + something resembling a Galapagos turtle! This we called the + Antarcticosaurus. On the Ramp to the east of this was another block + shaped like the power-shears used in machine shops for cutting iron + plate. In the same region were great blocks several feet across split + clean in half by the action of the frost. + +[Illustration: + + ICE-QUAKES IN THE SEA-ICE, SEPT. 23, 1911. + + The ice has settled down with the tide on a huge boulder and so formed + radiating cracks, just as has happened in the earth’s crust. The ice + is six feet thick. In the distance is the fallen “Arch Berg” just + west of Cape Evans. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE TIDE CRACK AT THE NORTH-WEST CORNER OF CAPE EVANS, SEPT. 23, 1911. + + On the right is the moving sea-ice, on the left the fixed ice-foot. + The blizzard “bridges” the crack by cornices built from the south. + The overhanging snow fills crevasses similarly, and thus arises the + wedge shape of the bridges—for these cornices are thickest in the + middle. Behind is Inaccessible Island with its windblown sand ridges + on the right. +] + + Small lakes, debris cones in all stages, solifluction furrows, ice + dams, kenyte columns, wind-ridges, etc., etc., there was no end to the + interesting photos one could obtain now the sun was with us again. + Still it took a long time for him to illuminate the southern cliffs of + the Cape, for he would dip behind the mountains to the west for + several weeks to come, quite early in the afternoon. + + On the 29th of September I tramped across to Tent Island, which lay + four miles south of Cape Evans. The island was approximately square + and about 800 yards along each side. The west side was fairly steep + and the island sloped gradually thence to the east. At the south was a + well-marked ice-foot, just like the one on which we camped in the + blizzard on Little Razorback. It is probably due to spray and snow + blown on to the windward face by the southern blizzards. + + There were a number of small water-cut gullies furrowing the slopes. + The surface was quite peculiar. The kenyte gravel was so small and + uniform that it looked like a well-raked garden, and was like velvet + to walk on! I found a few small granite erratics, just as Oates had + prophesied. The latter had visited the isle a few days earlier, and + was delighted to hear that Debenham had missed the granite boulders + which Titus had seen! The geologist had been handicapped by a bad + light and some snowfall; but it may readily be imagined how little + that affected the cavalryman’s pride in his discovery! + + The evidence of water erosion in the Antarctic was important. One + gully was quite 25 feet deep with a steep grade and was about 30 yards + wide. It ended in a fan which spread out over the ice-foot. I could + not climb down the latter, and so reached the sea-ice where I had + climbed up, further to the north. + + I had a long talk with the Owner about my plans for the forthcoming + summer. He was much averse to our trying to return by the Piedmont + Glacier, probably because of the greatly increased risk of falling + into crevasses if your path lies _along_ their length (instead of + across them, as in traversing ordinary outlet glaciers). I think our + party were the first to do any considerable distance over such a + glacier, and I must confess that I would infinitely prefer to ascend a + _normal_ glacier for twice the distance. + + In one important respect the environment of our hut was scientifically + more interesting than that of 1902 or 1907. We were only a few + minutes’ walk from the huge face of an important glacier. This meant + that many hours could be spent studying ice conditions, without being + at a dangerous distance from safety if a blizzard suddenly sprang up. + Almost every day Wright and myself prowled around High Cliff and the + vertical 150-foot face of the Barne Glacier. + + As one walked north from the cape on to the sea-ice, the ice-covered + slopes of the Ramp (which we called Slippery Slopes) merged into the + ice of the Barne glacier. Just at the northern “root” of Cape Evans + was Low Cliff, a mass of kenyte _in situ_. Further north every few + hundred yards was a permanent snow ramp leading up to the glacier + surface 100 feet above. At High Cliff an outcrop of kenyte was exposed + below the ice mass, and a little further north was another lower + outcrop at sea-level. Between these two—and about a mile from the + hut—Gran worked hard to convert a snow slope into a suitable ski-run. + It looked a ferocious jump to the tyro, and ended in a jumble of + sea-ice blocks which usually upset even our champion ski-er! (_I_ did + not tackle this particular spot, having a desire to keep sound limbs + for the ensuing summer, but nothing ever harmed Gran, as far as we + could see!) + + A stiff pull up the ski slope brought one to the top of the glacier. + Here the edge of the latter was closely corrugated by small thaw + streams, while the sun had etched out the face of the ice and left + great blocks of englacial kenyte projecting like the gargoyles of + Notre Dame. The silt bands and texture of the glacier hereabouts, + which was unusually rich in included debris, are well shown in the + accompanying photographs. + + The last volume of _S.P.T._ for 1911 was now in preparation. The + editor honoured me with an order for another skit on the lines of the + Bipe research. So I wrote a second dealing with sledging trials, + purporting to be love-letters between a McCormick Skua and a Weddell + Seal. This was illustrated in similar style by Uncle Bill. + +[Illustration: + + HIGH CLIFF AND THE SOUTH END OF THE BARNE GLACIER, OCT. 21, 1911. + + Ski Slope leads up to the glacier on the left. The debris cones show + up well on the right. The banded nature of the glacier ice shows + clearly to the right of High Cliff. The glacier and cliff are here + about 120 feet high. Erebus is 12 miles off. +] + +[Illustration: + + This is an original copy (reduced) of Bill’s poem showing the footnote + he added (in imitation of my earlier directions). Also showing his + corrections after Cherry’s criticism, thus giving the poem in its + first and also its final form. +] + + One day when I was typing this copy on Cherry’s typewriter, Bill came + to me with a poem he had written. He asked me to type it so that + Cherry should not recognize his writing. He wanted it to be perfectly + anonymous, for he knew anything of Bill’s would go in from our + admiration of the writer! I saw that he had copied my footnote (so as + to puzzle Cherry further) asking that an illustration be appended by + the artist on the staff! + + (This poem is that forming the introduction to the second volume of + Scott’s Last Expedition.) A few days later Cherry brought me all the + MS. and was graciously pleased to compliment me on the lot—especially + the poem “Barrier Silence”! So I had to disclaim authorship—in spite + of the footnote. After some time I think he believed me, but he wanted + two lines cleared up a little and asked me to do it. I declined to + alter it, but said that evidently the author expected Bill (as artist) + to see the poem, and that I was sure that whatever he and Bill agreed + to would satisfy the author! Whereat I heard Bill chuckle, and later + it was returned to me emended as shown in the annexed facsimile. + + Two explanations are perhaps helpful. The surface of the Barrier over + large areas often sinks suddenly to a slight degree when it is + disturbed by a sledge party, and this “shudder” has a very eerie + sound. The glare from the blinding surface affects the eyes much as + does a hot substance, and this is independent of the temperature. + Hence the remark, “Scorched and froze us through and through.” + + Evans, Gran, and Forde had done a rapid and useful dash south to see + if the first depôts were in good order. They experienced awfully low + temperatures (below −70°!), but managed to dig out the cases at the + depôt, and restore them to a more noticeable position. It must have + been an awful job, and there was evidence of this after their return. + Forde awoke next morning to find three of his fingers black, and one + was soon attacked with gangrene! For months his right hand was bound + up, and he was unable to use it fully right through our western + journey next summer. + + The geologists had to be very active, and make the most of the next + week or two to study the numerous problems confronting us in the + vicinity of Cape Evans. The sunlight made it possible to go longer + distances, and I examined Inaccessible Island, Turk’s Head, Tent + Island, Glacier Tongue, and Cape Royds in greater detail than I had + been able to do before. Thus on the 4th October I tramped six miles + south to join the survey party at Turk’s Head. + + Captain Scott had brought down a bicycle—given by a New Zealand + firm—on representations from Day and myself. I had ridden many miles + over snow in France, and thought it would be useful for short trips + round headquarters on the sea-ice. I got it out this day, but could + not find the pump, and so did not use the bicycle. + + I reached Turk’s Head about noon, and found the survey tent; but the + party were four hundred feet up on top of Turk’s Head. I could just + see Debenham on the summit, and got a photograph with his figure on + the skyline. + + It was tolerably easy to climb up the north-east gully, and so attain + the cup-shaped hollow on the summit, which enclosed a small frozen + tarn. Wonderful crags bounded the Bluff to the south. Great pinnacles + and couloirs etched out of the basic lava cliffs, due to the biting + breath of the southern blizzard. At the head of the bay, to the north, + were steep ice-falls. These moulded themselves round slender jagged + pinnacles of rock, which one would expect to have been eroded with + great ease by almost any type of glacier. + + We marched back to the survey tent in a cove two miles north, and ate + the currant cake which I had provided for lunch. Great ice-falls came + into the cove, and a huge cave was formed where they shot over the + cliff. It was thirty feet high, and went a long way into the glacier. + The sea-ice near the tent was ridged into pressure waves eight feet + high by the thrust of this glacier. I heard that they had altered in + shape while the party had been there. It was amazing to me to find so + little trace of polishing or planation under this huge glacier. We + returned close to another low outcrop called the “Slipper,” and + closely examined it. There was practically no sign of glacial action + on the rock surface just below the ice. Of course kenyte is somewhat + friable, and we occasionally found coarse bruised grooves marked on + the side of a boulder, but never any definite striæ or polishing. + + Perhaps the most interesting event of the day was that we heard a + mysterious tinkle in the corner of the hut. This was Meares ringing up + headquarters from the Old Discovery Hut some fifteen miles south! He + took a roll of bare aluminum wire on the dog sledge, and just unrolled + it as he sped off to Hut Point—surely the most primitive and simplest + method of telephone-laying extant! I rang him up and asked him to keep + a look-out for my geological hammer, and then proceeded to beat Wright + at chess. + + On the 8th I had a very unpleasant experience, largely owing to my own + foolhardiness. I obtained permission from Captain Scott to go off to + Turk’s Head, and said I hoped to be back by 4 p.m. He said, “Well, you + must return by dinner-time.” It was a fine, clear day; I had found the + bicycle pump, and was keen to make some use of the bicycle. I set off + boldly “to the admiration of those engaged in mending the tide gauge. + But it went stiffly, even through fairly hard snow, and I realised it + was not going to be much of a help. I had to walk half of the first + two miles, and seriously thought of leaving the bicycle at east base, + but hoped that the surface would improve. It was so hard that my boots + hardly sank in the snow, but the wheels cut a two-inch rut, while the + freewheel was of the roller type, and slipped when I put on extra + pressure. I pushed on to Glacier Tongue and had to walk half the eight + miles, and found it very tiring.” + + The tongue was most interesting. In outline it somewhat resembled an + Aztec sword, where jagged bits of obsidian are inserted fairly close + together along the edge. Here the ice edge consisted of alternate + promontories and bays—owing to the sea-water occupying the troughs of + the undulating glacier. I thankfully left the bicycle here, and + climbed into the tongue. I was very stiff, and had apparently strained + my leg with unwonted exercise. + + There seemed to be a very interesting cliff outcrop at the northern + root of the tongue, and I decided to visit it. It looked about half a + mile off, but the deceptive distances proved my undoing. After a rapid + walk of half an hour I only arrived at the outer zone of pressure ice + at the head of the bay. I could see that it was an interesting + spot—where the glacier capped a rock outcrop—but I dared not go + further. So I turned back, and was pretty done up when I reached the + bicycle again. It was now 3.30, and I had had nothing to eat since + 8.30, and had still seven miles to do. I rested for a few minutes and + then began to feel anxious, for I got very cold. So I plugged on a + mile or so till I couldn’t walk any further, and had to rest again. + This time I felt myself chilling rapidly, and was in a quandary. I was + too knocked up to walk, and it was too cold for me to stop. “Then I + saw some one trying to climb up Turk’s Head about two miles away. I + couldn’t make him hear, and pushed on to try and intercept his return. + I didn’t get a return signal for an awful time, till he was just + passing me. It was Wright, without his glasses. He hadn’t heard me at + first, but was finally attracted by the motions of an apparently crazy + seal!” We plodded on slowly and got within a mile of the hut when I + knocked out completely. He pushed on to bring out a sledge, and found + the hut in a state of excitement; for Clissold had been brought in + nearly unconscious only a short time before. + +[Illustration: The waved edge of Glacier Tongue 8–10–11] + + After a short rest I managed to reach the hut unassisted, and food and + sleep made me practically all right. Poor Clissold had fallen thirty + feet off an iceberg, and was confined to his bunk for several weeks in + consequence. + + I made a vow that the first bicycle ride in the Antarctic should be + _my_ last, and have every intention of keeping that vow. + + On the 11th Debenham and I explored Tent Island again. As I was taking + a photograph at the south-east corner, I heard a queer noise which I + traced to a seal hole about a yard long. Inside this was a big seal + trying to get out, but with little success. I thought at first he was + trying to rub away the ice with his snout bristles, but he was really + rasping right and left with his upper teeth—making horizontal grooves + in the ice, and gradually wearing it away. We watched him for a long + time from a few feet distance, which did not seem to worry him at all. + It made my teeth ache to see the energetic way he dug into the ice; + but after trying unsuccessfully to photo him I left without seeing + that he had made much progress. These seals were now appearing in some + numbers. We counted fourteen near Tent Island, and eight just north of + Inaccessible Island, as we returned to the hut. + +[Illustration: The Seal’s method of rasping away the Ice 11–10–11] + + On Sunday, 15th September, the third volume of _S.P.T._ was published. + It was in the same style as the preceding copies. There was a dramatic + account in blank verse of the _Terra Nova’s_ visit to South Trinidad, + which I attributed to Nelson (but was really by Mather). Meares wrote + an ode to Ponting in which my new word “to pont” (_i.e._ to spend a + deuce of a time posing in an uncomfortable position for a photograph) + was freely used. The Eastern Party was enshrined in a “Glass House” + this time, while Bill recorded on his Egyptian tablets the wanderings + of the Western trippers during September. + + Bill’s illustrations to “The Ladies’ Page,” a record of Antarctic + fashions, were some of the best he had done; especially Madame Bowers + and Miss Jessie Debenham, coyly proposing to Titus Oates! + + I have given the history of Wilson’s pathetic poem previously. We used + to talk a good deal about the advantages of “wireless,” and I tried to + embody the idea in a poem of sorts, which here follows, in which are + mentioned scenes familiar to various members, such as Oxford (Cherry); + Cambridge (Wilson, Wright, Nelson, Taylor); Ski-ing in Norway (Gran); + the Canadian muskeg (Wright); Australian Alps (Debenham, Taylor); + Japan (Ponting, Meares); India (Simpson, Oates, Bowers). + +[Illustration: “Polar Wireless”] + + I. + + When the southern blizzard surges from the white plains of the + Barrier, + Covering all with deadly snow-wreaths, blotting out both land and + sea: + Can it break the magic cables linking us to every region + Where we spent our days of study, days of youth and revelry? + Half the world is our possession, nought can curb imagination, + Though we’re wrapped in folds of deerskin, camped amid a field of + ice, + By the blessed help of fancy, still we’re free to wander gaily + Through the wooded lanes of England—true explorer’s paradise. + + + II. + + By the happy help of fancy we can leave the land of glaciers, + Hear the tolling from Tom Tower, or the chimes from Cambridge + arches, + Sense the thrill of ski-ers’ prowess on the slopes of Holmens Kol; + Once again can feel the tump-line as we cross the Muskeg Marshes; + We can change the Slopes of Terror to the sward of Kosciusko, + Where a thousand steers are grazing ’mid the tarns and green + moraines; + See the land of Cherry Blossom and the maidens of Japan, + Or the peaks of Himalaya hung above the Indian plains. + + + III. + + Lightly fades the lonely igloo; merges in the college gray ... + In the firesides of Old England, thirteen thousand miles away. + Thus from Lonelands to the Homelands all our thoughts are speeding + forth, + Faster far than wire or wireless—on “stretched wings towards the + north.”[9] + + _Cape Evans_, 27.10.11. + + I had an interesting midnight walk early on the 15th October. “I had + no gloves on, and it was light enough to photograph. There was a + beautiful red sunset due south. To the north the bay ice was + pea-green, while Erebus shone out with purple shadows. I laid boundary + stones at the ice margins of both Skua and Island lakes, to determine + how quickly the ice ablated in the spring. That evening I caused a + sensation by having a shave, the first since leaving New Zealand. + Birdie, Simpson, and Cherry behaved most foolishly as a result. Day + did the deed!” + + We found the Hut Point telephone useful for weather forecasting. For + instance, on the 16th Meares rang up at 11 a.m. to say that it was + blizzing (with force 9) from the south with a temperature of −16° F. + At this time, though only fifteen miles away, we were experiencing a + moderate north wind (force 3) with a temperature of −3° F. “As a + result Titus bet Teddy Evans that the blizzard would arrive before + noon. The wager was six cigarettes. No blizzard arrived at all, so + that Teddy won, but as he had given up smoking for some months he only + took one for Debenham!” + + On the 17th Debenham and I went over to Shackleton’s hut to spend a + few days geologizing. We took a small sledge with about 100 lbs. load. + Soon we came to patches of bare sea-ice just leprous with blobs of + salty snow. I was chagrined to find we could hardly drag our light + sledge across. It augured badly for the 1200 lbs. we should have to + pull in a week or so! We saw Emperor penguin tracks, but no birds, and + reached the hut at 1 p.m. We ate some biscuits and then went out to + photograph the vicinity. Here the Erebus glacier is about three miles + to the east, so that Cape Royds is a very much larger area of exposed + rock than Cape Evans. We walked along Black Sand Beach—almost the only + beach I saw with rolled pebbles—and passed below quite a large glacier + emerging from a gully. It had a 30-foot face of banded ice with fine + snow cornices. I was surprised to see this, and climbed up to + determine what was its source of supply. Then I found it was “all + face” and no background. It was in fact merely a gigantic snowdrift + plastered on the face of a 50-foot rock-cliff, and proved that many of + our smaller glaciers were nothing but case-hardened snowdrifts which + had solidified _in situ_. + + We returned to Shackleton’s hut, and I had a varied lunch off mock + turtle soup, mutton cutlets, and unlimited candied peel! We cleared up + the hut, which was in an awful mess, Deb arranging the stores and + mending the stove, while I swept up the floor. + + “We made up a bit of fire with some coal we found in one corner and + turned into our bags. All next day it blew frightfully hard. There was + a huge iron boiler which we gradually thawed out and used for water, + but we used an enamel jug as a kettle. We made porridge and ate it + from huge wooden spoons. I read ‘The Truants’ (Mason) and half the + ‘Botor Chaperon’ (Williamson). The hut groaned and creaked so that I + thought it would blow in sunder, but we were comfortable enough. We + hunted up some hypo, a large lamp, and 50 lbs. of carbide. I found a + useable pair of fingered gloves, which were just what I wanted for + instrument work.” + + Next morning it was blowing hard, but there was less drift. We went + out to try a photo, and the blizzard blew my camera down and smashed + the frame. After lunch it “let up” somewhat, and we set off for Cape + Evans. We saw an Emperor penguin crouched behind a snowdrift. It was + the first of the season, and Debenham was anxious to get a photo. He + stalked the penguin with great care, to my secret glee, for I had + noticed before that it was stone dead! + + Next day I packed my ditty bag with personal gear for the summer + journey. We were allowed 12 lbs. each. My choice was as follows:— + + 3 pairs _socks_, with Taylor’s patent heel-tips! + 1 hat. + 1 pair finger gloves. + 1 diary, 1 Browning, 1 German grammar. + + This totalled 7 lbs., and I decided to omit spare underclothing and + take a small eiderdown weighing 4½ lbs. It struck me that it would be + as comforting as Debenham’s 3 lbs. of tobacco, and last longer! + + “In the afternoon we ‘ponted’ for a game of football for the + cinematograph. It was awfully good fun. The Owner was centre forward + (running to the north), and he arranged that his side should win, to + ensure an exciting picture! Atkinson was given space for a fine run + in. Unfortunately in trying to cleverly miss a collar I slipped, and + he fell over my feet. Titus was a sight, waddling after a man and then + falling flat. Half the people got confused with the Owner’s yells to + ‘Keep the ball in the middle and up to the goal,’ so that many of our + side kicked it to their own goal! Crean truculently swore no one + should get a goal if he could help it, and spoilt all Atkinson’s + efforts, so that they scored nothing! Unfortunately Debenham strained + his knee defending goal, and has been on his back since. We shall + start west with Forde’s right arm useless and Debenham’s leg crocked!” + + On the 21st Scott gave me my sledging orders. The method of our relief + by the ship seemed rather comic. We were first of all to find Granite + Harbour and then recognize a 500-foot bluff, photographed on page 154 + in “The Voyage of the _Discovery_.” Here we were to await Captain + Pennell in mid-January. No one on the ship had seen Granite Harbour + either. As will be seen later, the harbour was a dozen miles wrong + longitude, and the only bluff which at all resembled the picture was + 1650 high! We rendezvoused there as required, but our letters and flag + on the bluff remain undisturbed to this day! + + Gran accompanied me for a walk two miles west to the great shear + crack, and there we spent some hours with pick and shovel cutting a + path through the upturned blocks of sea-ice, here 5 feet high. + + Day started the motor sledges on the 23rd October. The motor party + consisted of Evans and Lashley with one motor sledge, and Day and + Hooper with the other. There was a fearful array of cameras carried by + Scott, Gran, Wright, and myself, while Ponting had a regular battery + (including a cinematograph) loaded on his “pantechnicon”! Two troubles + hampered the motors. The “pattens,” or wooden soles on the two tractor + belts, would not grip the surface unless it consisted of hard snow. + Just off the Cape was a belt of smooth sea-ice with a thin layer of + snow over it, and the belts churned rapidly over this without moving + the sledge forward. They got them past this by laying down sacks, etc. + Then the motors were air-cooled, and apparently this was not + sufficient to keep the cylinders from overheating, especially as the + sledges went much slower than the ordinary motor car, and so only a + small current of cold air flowed past the two front cylinders and less + past the two rear cylinders. Moreover, the carburettor would not work + satisfactorily when the engine was down to Antarctic temperatures, and + it was necessary to warm it with a blow lamp! After some delays and + readjustments they got the sledges well under weigh to Big Razorback + Island. + + Nelson, Wright, and I decided to traverse the Barne Glacier (to the + north) and align the stakes which Nelson had planted in the preceding + February. We hoped to detect enough movement to give us the velocity + of the glacier. + + The new canvas overshoes, with spiked aluminium soles, were a godsend + for slippery ice work, and we found them a wonderful help. Wright went + first, carrying a theodolite; then Nelson, with the food, and I had my + camera and an ice-axe. We were roped up, for we had to cross many + small crevasses. The stakes were generally made of barrel staves, and + only half of them had withstood the winter. + +[Illustration: + + BERNARD DAY ON THE MOTOR SLEDGE JUST BEFORE HE STARTED FOR THE SOUTH, + OCT. 23, 1911. + + The engine is enclosed in a box to keep it warm, and the blow lamp was + to start the carburettor. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE START OF THE MOTOR SLEDGES, OCT., 1911. + + Notice Evans swinging round the sledge and Day’s flag. To the left is + Ponting being towed as he cinematographs. +] + + We soon reached the “nail-stake,” which showed the safe western route + to Shackleton’s Hut. The stakes here turned to the north and crossed a + wide gully, and then climbed up a steep shoulder with open crevasses, + which we had to negotiate by jumping. We reached the fixed moraines, + and while Wright set up the theodolite (and anathematized his frozen + fingers!) we discussed hot cocoa from a Thermos flask, and biscuits + and chocolate. The end stakes did not appear to have moved much, but + as we marched back on their line we found very perceptible evidence of + movement to the west. Fourteen inches at first, then 7, 12, 14, 15, + 15, 22, and 16 feet respectively, till we again reached the + “nail-stake.” It was rather difficult aligning the stakes, owing to + the crevasses, but though some were ten feet wide they were all open + and so perfectly obvious and safe. “Nelson slipped in his felt boots, + but we could have walked up an ice wall in our new spiked crampons!” + + The largest movement was in the ice valley, and though the maximum 22 + feet was not certain, yet there was no doubt about the record of 15 + feet. This was not nearly so much as recorded elsewhere for other + Antarctic glaciers; but it must be remembered that only the ten + _coldest_ months were involved in this test. + +[Illustration: + + Ice crampons, devised in the winter 1911. +] + + On the 26th Captain Scott took two parties to see if he could assist + the motor party, who seemed to be held up near Glacier Tongue. We saw + no trace of them till near the Tongue. Here we saw a black object, + which, however, turned out to be a seal scratching himself, though I + had felt able to recognize a motor and its driver! + + We took a long time to catch them, which pleased us greatly, for it + meant they were doing better than we had anticipated, but we caught + them at Danger Cliffs. “They had just done six miles and were very + bucked in consequence.” + + We were of some assistance in the next few miles. We would drag the + three huge trailer-sledges forward so as to relieve the motor sledge + at its first plunge. Then “she’d start with a jerk, Day sitting for + the moment in the chair of state and kicking up the floorboard to work + the levers. Then she’d stop; then we’d curse. He would light up the + petrol lamp round the carburettor to warm her, and try various + alterations to an undercurrent of our fervid remarks. Then she’d go + harder than we could walk for seven minutes. We got hot again, and + would then have to wait a quarter of an hour, stamping round and + freezing off, till she was affable once more.” + + We slept at the 1902 Hut, and Meares and Bowers gave us a grand seal + hoosh next morning, cooked on the greatly improved blubber stove. + + “Lashley’s motor got under weigh after twenty minutes with the blow + lamp on the carburettor, but Day’s was mulish. Gran, Evans, and I + waited with him.” The huge loads dragged were mostly oil and tent + gear, but their food-transporting power increases as the fuel load is + used up. “However, as the day grew the motor took heart of grace and + started, doing half-mile bursts, and at 12.45 we foregathered below + the Barrier edge. Lashley would have been up an hour earlier, but he + ran out of lubricant.” Unfortunately being on different gears they + couldn’t keep together readily. “I walked up on to the Barrier very + near where we crossed the big crack on March 12th. There was a + beautiful snow ramp up the twelve feet above the sea-ice. + + “At 1 p.m. Day moved on to tackle this. We all pushed behind, though + it was not a bit necessary. She went up in great style, though I think + most of us had dreaded this test considerably. At 1.5 the first motor + stood on the great Barrier. Lashley’s then ran up quite easily, and + after cheering them we streaked back to the 1902 Hut for lunch. Scott + and Wilson ran two miles of the distance; Bowers and I walked on + together until Crean and Evans passed us. I joined them, but gave them + best ultimately, for they were both powerful pacemakers.” + + We hit off for Cape Evans after lunch at a hot pace and didn’t stop + for eight miles, when we had tea off Razorback. “All around us were + seals and their young. The latter are longer in proportion, and are + lighter in colour and woollier. The mothers make a noise like a + dyspeptic sheep, and one big beggar _would_ nose around the sledges + until the Owner drove her away. Bill went off to get a dead young one + he espied, and found it alive, but frozen fast by its umbilical cord! + He freed it and left it, but Nelson saw the little idiot frozen again + two days later.” + + On the 28th Wilson examined the three Emperor penguin eggs obtained at + such peril in July. To his delight they showed three different stages + in development, and were much more developed than he expected. The + embryos were rather long, but very like fledgling sparrows. There were + little tufts on the tail already, and their long, flapper-like wings + were not a bit bird-like. The shells were very thick and about the + diameter of a swan’s, but somewhat elongated. They were light buff + outside and bluish inside. Bill said only about fifteen shells had + been obtained, and no embryos. + + Household duties have been somewhat disorganized. I have laid and + cleared the tables, while Atkinson has been chief cook. He succeeded + splendidly for the most part. “He made excellent coffee; Deb tasted + first cup, and nearly died, for it was pure cayenne!” + + Erebus gave us a fine demonstration from 9 to 9.30 on the 30th of + October. The steam cloud rose like a huge mushroom at first, then was + branched like a yew-tree, and ultimately settled down into a huge + pall. + + On the 31st October the pony parties started. Two weak ponies led by + Atkinson and Crean were sent off first at 4.30, and I accompanied them + for about a mile. Crean’s pony rejoiced in the name of “Jimmy Pig,” + and he stepped out much better than his fleeter-named mate Jehu. We + heard through the telephone of their safe arrival at Hut Point. + + Next morning the Southern Party finished their mail, posting it in the + packing case on Atkinson’s bunk, and then at 11 a.m. the last party + were ready for the Pole. They had packed the sledges overnight, and + they took 20 lbs. personal baggage. The Owner had asked me what book + he should take. He wanted something fairly “filling.” I recommended + Tyndall’s Glaciers—if he wouldn’t find it “coolish.” He didn’t fancy + this! So then I said, “Why not take Browning, as I’m doing?” And I + believe that he did so. + + Wright’s pony was the first harnessed to its sledge. “Chinaman” is + Jehu’s rival for last place, and as some compensation is easy to + harness. Seaman Evans led “Snatcher,” who used to rush ahead and take + the lead as soon as he was harnessed. Cherry had “Michael,” a steady + goer, and Wilson led “Nobby”—the pony rescued from the killer-whales + in March. Scott led out “Snippets” to the sledges, and harnessed him + to the foremost, with little Anton’s help—only it turned out to be + Bowers’ sledge! However he transferred in a few minutes and marched + off rapidly to the south. “’Christopher,’ as usual, behaved like a + demon. First they had to trice his front leg up tight under his + shoulder, then it took five minutes to throw him. The sledge was + brought up and he was harnessed in while his head was held down on the + floe. Finally he rose up, still on three legs, and started off + galloping as well as he was able. After several violent kicks his + foreleg was released, and after more watch-spring flicks with his hind + legs he set off fairly steadily. Titus can’t stop him when once he has + started, and will have to do the fifteen miles in one lap probably!” + + Dear old Titus—that was my last memory of him. Imperturbable as ever; + never hasty, never angry, but soothing that vicious animal, and + determined to get the best out of most unpromising material in his + endeavour to do his simple duty. + + Bowers was last to leave. His pony, Victor, nervous but not vicious, + was soon in the traces. I ran to the end of the Cape and watched the + little cavalcade—already strung out into remote units—rapidly fade + into the lonely white waste to southward. + + That evening I had a chat with Wilson over the telephone from the + Discovery Hut—my last communication with those five gallant spirits. + + We settled down in the Hut, a small and rather silent party. I was now + awaiting Debenham’s recovery from the injury to his knee, for our + start was already overdue. Nelson was cook, though Clissold was + beginning to move about more easily. As lately, I continued to lay and + clear the table, while Simpson was coal-whacker. The night-watch was + now unnecessary—it was too light for auroræ—and the ponies no longer + inhabited the stable. Nelson used to take the 4 a.m. observations, and + Simpson those at midnight. + + On the 2nd of November we had some stove trials in the deserted + stables. Day’s last work had been to make us a blubber stove from + sheet iron, with a door grid and cover complete. We lengthened the + chimney (by adding asparagus tins) and then tested it. The cooker was + filled with snow, a “fid” of blubber lit on the grid, and in + twenty-seven minutes the water was boiling! There was very little + smoke, and it gave a pleasant heat all the time. Later we found that + it did not work so well in a draught, and was a trouble in the open; + but we cooked most of our meals on it in December and January, as will + appear. + +[Illustration: + + WILSON PACKING HIS PONY SLEDGE THE DAY BEFORE THE START FOR THE POLE, + OCT. 31, 1911. + + The tins of oil, Alpine rope, large biscuit tins, sleeping-bag and + tent poles show up well. Behind is the outer door of the hut looking + north to the Barne Glacier. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE HUT AFTER THE WINTER, NOV. 20, 1911. + + Great snowdrifts cover the porch and all the gravel before the hut. At + the back is the Ramp, and low-level stratus is enveloping the base + of Erebus. + + [See p. 320. +] + + That evening I had a walk round High Cliff and found a regular + “Niagara” rushing down the face of the glacier in a tinkling stream as + much as an inch deep! This was at midnight on the 2nd of November, and + the temperature was seventeen degrees below freezing! It shows the + strong radiant effect of the sun on black rocks even at midnight. + + This event—marking the oncoming of reasonable weather—closed our + sojourn at winter quarters during 1911. + + + + + VI + THE GRANITE HARBOUR EXPEDITION + SECOND WESTERN EXPEDITION + + NOVEMBER 1911–FEBRUARY 1912 + + +[Illustration: + + RELIEF MODEL OF THE REGION TRAVERSED IN THE SECOND SUMMER. + + C.B. = Cape Bernacchi. Mt. G. = Mount Gran. G. = Gondola Ridge. C.R. = + Cape Roberts. D. = Cape Dunlop. N. = Nussbaum Riegel (across Taylor + Valley). +] + + + + + THE GRANITE HARBOUR EXPEDITION + + + (_Vide_ large folding map at end.) + + During the winter the four members of the western party often used to + gaze to the north-west across McMurdo Sound and wonder what adventures + we should meet in the coming summer. We could make out the hills + behind Cape Bernacchi fairly well, some fifty miles off; but beyond + that was a greyish mass of land which, north of our horizon, was + broken by the large inlet of Granite Harbour just about latitude 77°. + We read up what little was known of it, and Wilson told us his + memories—of a sort of bluff-ended peninsula where we could reach + _terra firma_, of ice-falls filled with crevasses, and not very + promising as a route to the interior. + + We expected to get away by October 22nd, but Debenham, as has been + told, injured his knee a day or two before, and spent most of the next + three weeks in his bunk trying to reduce the inflammation sufficiently + for him to walk. + + The western party were unfortunate in having another cripple. Forde’s + right hand was still in bandages from his severe frostbites, but they + were progressing favourably, and though he never was able to use it + for delicate operations, it did not handicap him greatly. + + On the 5th of November we packed the sledges. Our delay had one + advantage—we needed less food, and so our load was lighter. In fact, I + don’t know how we could have managed much more than our “half ton.” I + omitted three weeks’ supplies, but packed all the remainder on to the + sledges. In the huge canvas bag—called a tank by the seamen—were put + the weekly bags of stores. Here a little pile of butter, there smaller + bags of tea, etc. A few small bags of pepper, salt, etc., were placed + in the “Ready-Bag.” This latter was a smaller canvas bag which held + just a week’s food, and was kept separate from the main “tank,” so + that the latter was only opened once a week when the cooks changed + duty. + + A document which was consulted more frequently than any other which we + carried was Bowers’ list of our stores. It was headed, in a last flash + of his humorous verbosity, “The Western PHYSIPHOGEOPETROVULCANOLOGICAL + PARTY,” and gave me careful notes as to the stores at Butter Point, + and tips as to taking tin-openers, and bags for the cocoa and pemmican + tins we should find there. It got very frayed with continual use, and + this led to some anxiety later. All the items were entered like this:— + + “Biscuit for 20 weeks at 24·5 lbs. = 490 lbs.” The entry for _tea_ I + read as— + + “Tea for 20 weeks at 1·75 lbs.,” but it was nearly illegible, and + later, after wondering why the tea was so rapidly diminishing, I saw + that his note really read 1·75 _for ten days_ (instead of “per week”). + This was one of the most welcome discoveries on our journey, for I + thought I had lost some bags of the precious beverage, and we soon + evened matters by greater economy. + + On the Sunday afternoon (5th November) Gran, Forde, and I pulled the + big sledge over the sea-ice to the west. We had very heavy work + dragging it over the snow near Cape Evans, but owing to the track we + had cut through the walls at the great shear crack we crossed this + quite easily. We came on some mirror ice, where the runners positively + flew along, but a film of snowdrift about a quarter of an inch deep + made us nearly lie down in our traces. We took the sledge about three + miles out and then returned to the hut. _En route_ our collie bitch + worried a seal almost to death, and though Gran gave her a tremendous + beating, I doubt if that even made the dogs refrain from tormenting + the helpless animals. + + Perhaps they felt that the seals were fair game, as they were so much + bigger than themselves! + + On Monday a blizzard came up, in which superstitious little Anton had + a wild time reaching the hut. He had left Ponting encamped at Little + Razorback, and much preferred to find his way back, rather than spend + a night among the howling demons of the Antarctic! + +[Illustration: + + THE SECOND WESTERN PARTY THE DAY THEY WERE PICKED UP BY THE SHIP. + + Taylor, Debenham, Gran, and Forde. +] + + We had a council in the hut with Simpson and Nelson. The latter very + kindly volunteered to take Debenham’s place and help my party across + to Butter Point with most of our gear. Then we could rapidly return + and pick up Debenham if the rest had sufficiently cured his disabled + leg. + + On the 7th of November we started off on our first relay. We left + about ten o’clock, taking a small sledge from the hut with our + sledging gear. We soon picked up our main load on the big sledge, and + then began really heavy work. One is always soft and out of condition + after the winter, and it takes about a week to get into sledging trim + again. It was not very cheering to find we could only get along at the + rate of about one mile an hour, for a large part of the gear to be + dragged to Granite Harbour, lay thirty miles west at Butter Point! In + fact, even with this light load, the surfaces made us relay at times, + and the effect on one’s body muscles seemed at first almost + unbearable. By lunch-time we had only left the hut about four and a + half miles behind. + + It was blowing strongly from the south-east, and I saw a snowdrift + rushing along the ice. When we reached a patch of snow suitable for a + camp site, I pitched our tent, and this halt for lunch unfortunately + served for supper and breakfast also. It was blizzing hard in ten + minutes, and we were only just able to get the tent up in time. Forde + was able to help greatly, though his hand was still in a sling. + + We were now no longer new chums, and it was pleasant to find that + sledging was so much more comfortable than on our first expedition. We + now realized that if we could keep out the snow, we should help the + human furnace enormously. For every snowflake in or on one’s garments, + first melted and then turned to ice, and all this had to be thawed + each night before one could get warm enough to sleep. So this trip we + carried a shilling scrubbing brush, and every one was most assiduous + in its use. + + It was amusing how little trouble we had in donning our frozen boots + now. Some one had hung his on the peak of the tent, while the cooker + was going for breakfast, and now they were almost too pliant when we + needed to put them on. It was a greater comfort to have a wider + floorcloth. Now the outside men were not pushed into the snow, and our + instruments and notes were kept much more securely than on the former + journey. + + As the blizzard increased it drove snow on to the windward side of the + tent, and the lee sides flapped violently so that the “stocking” door + vibrated incessantly. The snow piled higher and higher, and under the + ventilator collected a great ball of ice. + + We were pretty comfortable very soon in spite of the snow, which + covered the sledges a foot deep. A rapid journey to Butter Point was + out of the question, and we turned in hoping for better weather in the + morning. The temperature was +23° as I ascertained by swinging the + sledge thermometer. My last camp in April on Little Razorback had been + in −23°, some 45° lower! + + Nelson read Poe for awhile in his bag; I read Browning. We were rather + jammed together in the drifted tent, and poor Forde next morning said + he had been too crushed to sleep! For myself I had never before slept + so well at the start of a trip. + + At 6 a.m. on the 8th it was still very thick to westward. However, at + 7.30 we turned out for breakfast, and after digging up the sledges we + got away about 9.40. It is curious how long it took to start off every + morning. With no dressing or washing and a simple breakfast of two + pots of food, one would have expected a party to be ready in an hour; + but two hours was by no means unusual after a blizzard. + + The heavy winds had compacted the snow, and also, I believe, covered + some of the sticky salty surface. At any rate, we went along better + than I had dared to hope, and could do more than a mile an hour. + + I soon learnt that it was better to go a long way round rather than + cross new snow, and at lunch-time we had done over three miles. Very + stiff it made us! The sky cleared, and seemingly a short way ahead lay + Butter Point, a face of ice about 50 feet high in which small + crevasses showed quite clearly. Yet it was still 20 miles away! To the + south-west was a group of dark castles. These were the little volcanic + Dailey Isles, which were miraged up into huge squat keeps, very + different from their true conical shape. + + Far to the north we could see the locale of one of the wildest + Antarctic exploits—the mighty crevasses near Mount Bird. Macintosh and + a mate managed to cross these during Shackleton’s expedition in 1908, + after abandoning their tent and losing their food in a crevasse. + + How anxiously we watched the little dial of the sledge-meter. Very + slowly the miles rolled away, and when we had done four more stages I + stopped for a cup of tea and some block chocolate. These short halts + did not make one stiff like a longer wait. Finally, we halted at 8.30 + after eleven hours on the move. We had sledged eight miles as the + result of the day’s work, and were already feeling fitter and enjoying + our pemmican. How greasy and thick it tastes at first! and yet how + soon it seems to vanish almost at sight! + + The sun came out and there was a tremendous glare from the snow. + Goggles were donned and were not an unmixed blessing. The hot glare + disappeared, but sweat rolled down one’s forehead and fogged the + glasses so that it was impossible to see through them. + + On the 8th we continued our “trek” towards Butter Point. There is very + little variety on these journeys; you pull till you are tired—not + talking much, for that uses too much breath, but thinking of all sorts + of topics. As long as one leans forward in the belt and keeps time + there is not much else to engage one’s attention. Even the leader + merely notes some object in his line of march and plugs steadily on + until it is time to halt for the five minutes’ spell! + + At 4 o’clock we were nearly 20 miles from the hut, and therefore, as + we halted for tea, still ten miles from Butter Point. It was gloomy + and soon started drifting again, always from the south-east and always + giving but a short warning of low driving snow before the full blast + struck us. + + This blizzard lasted thirty-six hours. We lay in our bags and slept + most of the time. It is wonderful how one’s appetite decreases during + these enforced waits. The normal amount of thirty-three ounces of + _dried_ food per day would be enormous in ordinary life; when lying + snug in one’s bag, no energy is used in work and little in heat, so + that about twenty ounces seems sufficient, and one of the meals can be + cut out with ease. + + On Saturday morning I turned out at 3 a.m., and a little later it was + obviously clearing. The drift was deep over the sledges and nearly + over the door. We had been delayed so much that I felt we must now + turn back, so we packed the tent and one meal on the small sledge and + left a large flag on a bamboo by the larger sledge. + + We had only about 100 lbs. to pull and yet the twenty miles + (twenty-three statute) was a hard journey. I hoped to be in by noon, + but the surface was very bad. We had tea and a biscuit at six and + another short meal at noon. We could see the four isles off Cape Evans + all the time, and I think our chief occupation while sledging was in + watching them take up various angles in front of the Cape as we + gradually got nearer the hut. We crossed some landmarks in the shape + of the huge shear cracks. One at nine miles, one at four and a half, + and a small one two and a half miles from the hut. The last six miles + were awful, for the erstwhile mirror-like ice near the Cape was now + covered with a sticky film of snow over which we could hardly pull the + empty sledge. + + However we began to see dead penguins, and then we knew we were within + a “dog’s walk” of the hut—for these were relics of their occupation. + Next we reached the triangular area to leeward (north) of the hut, + which viewed from the Ramp was of a yellow tinge from the straw and + other debris blown there by the blizzards. And so at 4.30 p.m., just + twelve hours after starting we arrived. I immediately rushed Clissold + the cook for tinned pears, and found none left. So I started on three + rounds of toast. We then had soup, rissoles, and fruit tart. I had + three helps of the former and two of the latter and still felt hungry. + Debenham’s leg had not been going on very well, but was better than on + Wednesday. They had had no drift at the hut on Tuesday! + + After another council I decided to take advantage of Nelson’s kind + offer. He would accompany us with the little Russian groom Anton. If + all went well they could return; if Debenham were too lame to proceed + they could bring him back, and Gran, Forde, and myself would push on + to Granite Harbour as a three-man party. + + Sunday and Monday passed quietly in the hut though the weather was bad + outside. On Tuesday it was very unpromising until 3 p.m., when we + could just make out the Western Mountains. At 3.20 we made our final + start with Nelson and Anton as a convoy. Debenham hobbled alongside, + and as the surface was better than previously and the wind blew to the + west we made fair progress. This time we took on our cameras and Day’s + blubber stove. At six miles we pitched camp and were starting supper + when I discovered that we had left the can of spirits behind. This + fluid was necessary to start the primus stove in low temperatures, so + Gran and I tramped back to the hut for it. It was a stiff walk, for we + were afraid of thick black clouds to the south and the wind rose to + sixty miles an hour, luckily without drift. After some supper I turned + into my bunk for the last time that year. Gran slept in the bunk + above, and as the result of some salmon and a recent perusal of Jules + Verne’s “Mysterious Island,” suffered from nightmare. He explained + next morning that he thought Erebus had overwhelmed the Cape with + red-hot lava, wherein Simpson had been engulfed, but the geologists + had calmly climbed up to the crater! Was this a forecast of his own + escape on the summit a year later, when Gran was nearly choked by the + fumes? + + We found the spirits where we had been packing the sledges, and + trudged out to the tents to find the others having breakfast. However, + we started at 10 a.m. and did nine miles by 5.30. I camped early to + prevent Debenham overstraining his leg. + + On the 16th we awoke to find snow falling, though there was not much + wind. We had been so much delayed that I determined to try marching + through the thick weather lying ahead of us. Although we were fairly + close to the magnetic pole, and the compass consequently had very + little “horizontal pull,” yet I determined to try steering by it, + especially as we had a spare man to steer us. We wanted to go almost + due west, but the compass direction, owing to the variation, was S. + 65° E.! So Debenham marched some fifty yards behind us, and signalled + to Nelson, who repeatedly turned to observe him. Meanwhile I tried to + steer a course by any object which I could see looming up through the + mist ahead. We serpentined considerably at first, but moved steadily + westward. Our surprise and gratification may be imagined when we + suddenly saw footprints ahead of us, and realized that we had exactly + hit on our route of the week before. We had not seen any trace of our + track since leaving the hut, and this encounter was as marvellous as + finding a needle in the proverbial bottle of hay. On we went into the + thick of it till 1 p.m. My eyes soon tired with looking at huge crags, + which turned out to be ice splinters twenty yards away. Finally the + western hills appeared, and we were all on the _qui vive_ to be the + first to spot the depôt flag. Nelson offered his raisins as a reward, + and then won them himself! We reached our depôt at 2 p.m. + + The sledge was not buried, though a great lee had been built by the + blizzards. We had a merry lunch, all six sitting in one tent. Anton’s + plans caused much amusement. We gathered that he was going back to + Russia to marry a rich wife, and so long as she were wealthy we + understood that he had no objection even to a wooden leg! + + The clouds began to roll away _en masse_, leaving behind a magnificent + Italian blue sky, as if the blizzard had purged it of all impurity. + The resulting contrast with the dazzling white mountains had something + of a Japanese effect, and the afternoon was one of the finest I saw in + the Antarctic. + + We camped within seven miles of Butter Point. I was delighted to catch + Debenham surreptitiously helping with the back sledge, for he found + that his leg was certainly no worse for the rough work he was giving + it. + + On the 17th we moved on with another sledge added. They pulled + stiffly, and we met with soft snow every few yards. Moreover, we + encountered some “screw-pack,” which is a very formidable obstacle, + and of which we met more than enough in the next week or so. I suppose + that here the sea-ice had been broken up and jammed together before + finally freezing into a continuous sheet. However, by zigzagging we + made steady progress, and reached Butter Point about 5 p.m. + + We pitched the two tents first thing, on the thick snowdrifts near the + tide crack. Then we walked up to the depôt, where our boxes stood out + boldly, some three hundred yards away. + + We dragged up the small sledge and loaded it with cocoa, sugar, + pemmican, etc., and then a second time took down 330 lbs. of biscuits. + The floor on which the stores had been laid in January was now over + two feet down. This gives some indication of the change in the surface + of the piedmont ice in nine months. Probably drift accounted for most + of the deposit. + + The two tents now resembled grocers’ shops. In one Nelson and Forde + were bagging the cocoa, in the other Gran and I opened tins of + pemmican and placed them in weekly bags also. Meanwhile Debenham + prepared a fine hoosh, and Anton conducted a lively class in Russian. + In the depôt were some soft captain’s biscuits left by Shackleton’s + party. Forde and Debenham preferred them to our official ration of + hard sledging biscuit, and so we made an exchange, for I knew we could + always make up deficit by seal meat. + + On the 18th we started off with six men to pull the three sledges; but + we found it impossible, and had to relay all the time. We were now + crossing the mouth of New Harbour, making for Cape Bernacchi, at its + north-east corner. + + At lunch we finished off Nelson’s contribution of Tru milk, and + Debenham took a photo of the combined parties. Then the “Convoy + Commando” left us, and we saw them for an hour or so plugging steadily + towards Cape Royds. Here Nelson intended to get some penguin eggs + before going to Cape Evans. + + Now we were left to our own resources, with 1350 lbs. to drag along. I + distributed the weight more evenly on the two sledges, putting the + heavy biscuit-boxes on one, and the tents and sledging gear on the + other. + + After lunch we pulled off, Debenham and myself in front, and Forde and + Gran near the sledge. The sun was hot, but as usual, when we + anticipated trouble, it was not forthcoming, for Debenham was able to + help us very materially, and the surface was rippled and harder than + we had seen hitherto. + + Soon we were hotter than we liked, and our headgear was modified to + suit the climate. Forde appeared in a huge panama. Debenham and Gran + had felt hats with ear-flaps, and I wore an ordinary colonial felt, + which I tied down like a coal-scuttle when the wind was too keen. This + day it was warm enough to wear no hat at all, so I walked bareheaded + with goggles, “and would have liked to pull off my vest also”! + + The screw-pack was low hereabouts, only projecting two or three feet; + but the hollows were masked by snow, which made the walking difficult + and even dangerous for Debenham. We took the “biscuit” sledge on first + for about a mile and flagged it; then trudged back for the “tent” + sledge. Debenham met us soon, and pulled with us for the same weary + mile. It took about forty minutes to do this, and about twenty to walk + back, so that transporting the half ton over a mile meant a hundred + minutes of very hard labour, which with a light load we could cover in + twenty-five minutes. + + Well, we had some weeks of it, and by the time five miles comes to be + accounted a good day’s journey, progress does not seem so slow as it + did at first. We used to leave Debenham ahead with the first sledge at + our evening stage, and when we three brought up the biscuit sledge we + would find that he had nearly got the “hoosh” ready. There was no + mention of “too much pemmican” nowadays! + + We were now crossing New Harbour. It was interesting to see so clearly + the old landmarks of Dry Valley, and amusing to think of our bet with + Taff Evans as to the identity of the valley we were now passing. He + was convinced that we could not see Dry Valley from Butter Point, and + we had had a hot discussion in the previous February on the point. + + From this point we saw a most wonderful array of cwm valleys. On the + flanks of Mount Lister they were clustered thickly like thumbmarks in + a piece of putty. On the slopes of the Kukri Hills we could see steep + gullies, as it were, growing into “chimneys,” and these into deeper + valleys, and so into veritable cwms or cirques. They illustrate an + interesting scientific principle. It is naturally impossible to see + the stages of valley erosion evolving before one’s eyes—as impossible + as to see a barrier reef changing into a coral atoll—and yet one + cannot doubt that this evolution occurs when we have all the + intermediate stages confronting us. + + We intended to carry out a very complete survey on this journey. We + had two separate instruments, a theodolite and a plane-table. With the + former I was able to fix far distant peaks with considerable accuracy, + and also by observations on the sun to determine the latitude and + longitude of the main stations of our survey. With the plane-table + Debenham carried out a unique detailed survey of the coast-line, not + only showing the outlines of the land but also all the physiographic + features. By means of the theodolite we were also able to plot the + elevations fairly accurately, and when these were added to the + plane-table charts I think we brought back from our sledging trip an + Antarctic survey unique for its completeness in the field. + + The surface for the next few miles was very bad. I wished Wright were + with us, not only to lend us his sturdy muscles, but to study the + queer morass we encountered. We were sinking nearly to the knee in + snow crystals. These were not wet, but so incoherent that they clogged + the sledge-meter, and for the remainder of our journey we had to + remember the miles missed from our reckoning before reaching Cape + Bernacchi. + + The yellow goggles gave rise to a queer illusion. It was just as if we + were pulling through heavy sand at the mouth of a river, and owing to + some wind and water action, there were the same ripples and channels + as are to be seen in an estuary. + + Captain Scott had ordered us to leave a week’s provisions at Cape + Bernacchi, for we should need this if the bay ice went out, and we had + to return overland. So we carried up a half-tin of biscuit, and filled + it with butter, pemmican, and chocolate. This was reared on end, and + protected by a cairn of granite. We surmounted it with one of our + precious bamboos carrying a flag. I left a note informing the finder + as to our progress, and immediate plans. This was the first of our + post offices, of which we established four more during the summer. + + Though all this took time, we also made a collection of rocks for + Debenham. The loose snow had wrenched his knee badly, so that much as + he would have liked to explore our first new land, he was unable to + move many yards from the sledge. Marble, granite, tourmaline gneiss, + basalts and schists, and a few mineral veins gave us quite a fine + collection—though most of them were moraine specimens. + + I sketched the coast to northward, observing with great satisfaction + that there was no open water in sight. Numerous seals were basking in + the next bay, which augured well for our future food supply. Less + welcome was the rugged area of screw-pack which filled the bay, and + which we should have to traverse on our next stage. + + Debenham had packed the sledge, and we moved off in the afternoon, + winding in and out between jagged lumps of ice, sometimes eight feet + high. There was interesting spoor here; an Emperor penguin had + evidently passed by, and his sturdy tread had hardened the snow + somewhat. Ensuing blizzards swept away the softer snow, and left his + imperial footprints standing in relief. + + We camped in the screw-pack, and passed a peaceful night. Next morning + the narration of a dream caused some amusement. “I had invited + Professor David to dine, and arrived two hours late; as I had no money + to pay for the meal I calmly decided to wake, and did so!” We often + discussed dreams, especially after my repeating what I could remember + of an article in a magazine I had read in the Old Discovery Hut. It + pointed out that one’s own personality was often revealed in the + clearest fashion. I hope the above sample was not of this type. + + We reached Marble Cape at noon, and from the top we could see our + wandering friend from Ross Island—the three-mile fragment of Glacier + Tongue. There was Oates’ depôt as clear as ever, and the huge field of + ice had almost filled the bay between this cape and one to the north. + Its sides projected thirty feet above the sea-ice, and we could see + that it was largely built of snow, which was folded in a very complex + manner, and probably originated largely as snow cornices, just as + current-bedding in rocks is formed from steep delta deposits. + + To the west, behind the cape, was the sheer front of the Piedmont + Glacier. It ended in a face about thirty feet high, and evidently was + for the most part moulded over the hills, though a few _nunakoller_ + projected through it. + + We reached a high cape built of gneiss, and camped there for the + night, among a colony of seals. We were doubtful as to whether this, + or the previous headland, was David’s “Marble Cape”; in fact, as some + one said, it was a “nice point.” At any rate this pun led to the name + _Gneiss Point_, by which we knew it. + + Next morning it was a blow to our pride to drag the sledge through the + numerous seals, and to find that they evidently despised us too much + to move out of our way. It was a favourite basking ground, and many + square yards of snow were rolled flat and hard by the sleeping seals, + while canoe-shaped hollows showed where some unsociable beast had lain + at a distance from his fellows. + + We started off relaying as usual, but as I was returning I felt this + was just the time to test our outfit as an ice yacht! A steady south + wind was blowing almost directly behind us, and the next few miles + showed a reasonably good surface. + + The six heavy bamboo poles, on which the tent is hung, were so + arranged that two could be taken out of the leather bucket uniting + them at the top. The remaining two pairs were fixed vertically above + the front sledge to form a double mast. We lashed them to the + stanchions with lamp-wick. The other two bamboos were used as yards + for the floorcloth. This sail was held up by a rope—actually off + Forde’s sleeping-bag—which passed over the top of the “bucket” on the + mast, and the pull of the wind kept it taut. Two “main sheets” helped + to secure things, and passed from the yards to the rear of the sledge. + Forde was bo’sun, and made a good job of it. Meanwhile, the delay had + frozen the sledges to the sea-ice, but after “breaking” them out, we + managed to start the yacht and its tender, and to our delight we could + just move the half ton along! It was frightfully hard work, especially + the start; but we could do a mile in forty-five minutes, whereas + formerly relays and halts made this a two-hour job. Luckily, + Debenham’s leg was now much better, and the miles piled up splendidly. + We did 6½ geographic miles by 7 p.m., instead of 4½ by 9 p.m. as + heretofore. + + In gratitude we called this bay the Bay of Sails; a variation from + Shackleton’s famous inlet, the Bay of Whales. The coast was fringed by + Piedmont Glacier, but a little rock showed at the water’s edge. We + indulged in extra raisins for lunch, and camped at night near a large + cape, which reminded Forde of Spike Island, near Cork. + + The ice was evidently affected by the summer breaks, for we had to + cross a crack two feet wide, where the water was surging continuously. + A young seal here caused us some amusement, its heart-rending + “baa-aas” and strenuous efforts to climb a gigantic ridge eight inches + high being very comic. + + “_November 23_, 10.15 p.m.—The sun is shining brightly for the first + time to-day. The tent is flapping gaily, partly owing to the two poles + being a bit loose, and partly to the keen southerly wind which is + driving over the shore glacier. I am as snug as possible in my bag + since I sewed the new left-hand flap thereon. I shall patent this! for + a man can lie left or right, fur in or out now. The temperature is + +14° F., and the barometer has risen rapidly to 30.14. This change + probably means something unpleasant, but Erebus is very clear and the + steam going south!” + + In spite of hurrying, putting the sail together inside the tent took + time, so that it was 10.45 before we started with sail set and a fair + wind for the next headland. This looked like a dented door-knob, and + we reached it by lunch with the mast bending and the sail bulging in + true nautical style. + + As we passed it I saw that we had reached Dunlop Island, which had + been hidden from us by a line of icebergs. It is separated from Dunlop + Cape by a strait about one-third of a mile wide. We hailed this with + joy, for it seemed to be pure blue ice; but over this blizzards had + blown low parallel ridges of snow which were about 20 feet apart. The + snow was sticky with salt, and the alternation of clear ice with + sticky snow was almost impassable. For we could not stand on the ice + and the sledge would not move over the snow, and when we could pull + from the snow, the sledges were on clear ice and the wind drove them + along unassisted! I don’t know how Debenham managed, but I wrenched my + leg, and for days afterwards had cause to remember Dunlop Strait. + + Dunlop Island is a mere ridge of shingle about 60 feet high. There was + a fierce wind blowing which prevented my taking any photographs, but I + managed to get a round of angles with the theodolite before my hands + were numbed. There seemed to be four ancient beach-levels marked by + well-rounded boulders which point to elevation in this region. Looking + to the north we could see nothing but a great barrier wall of ice + along the coast. The trend of the latter was almost continuous from + Cape Bernacchi, and we could see no foundation for the sharp turn to + the north-west charted on the existing maps. + + We pushed on for the north along this forbidding wall of ice. It was + almost December now, and the sea-ice might break up any day, so that + our next few days were anxious ones. We had great difficulty from the + sticky surface, and the wind changed direction, nearly blowing the + sledge over, so I decided to “down sail” and steer nearer the land. We + could only with difficulty pull one sledge, and had to relay till we + reached the face of the glacier, where we camped. While Debenham + cooked the hoosh—an excellent one, of which I had one and a half + pots!—Gran and I managed to climb 200 feet up the glacier front. The + ice was much broken and recemented with some deep crevasses and queer + puckered ridges. After making a sketch and searching for signs of open + water, luckily without result, we turned in and spent a comfortable + night. + + We awoke to a comparatively hot day! I decided to try one sledge + first, and if all went well to tack on the other. But to our chagrin + we found that we could not manage _one_ sledge. By one o’clock we had + managed to struggle along for one mile, in the course of which + Debenham had badly twisted his knee. + + “I decided to go in for night marching, and we pitched the tent, hung + out our wet clothes in the hot sun, and had lunch. Then we turned in + and tried to sleep without success. I read through one year of + Horsfield’s German Grammar, and put a chinstrap on my hat, while Forde + darned socks. It was too hot to keep in the sleeping-bags, and so I + lay outside without a coat! + + “At 7 p.m. it is distinctly cooler, so that ice does not melt now if + you touch it.” + + These abnormal conditions were due to the bright sun, for the air + temperature was below freezing. But the solar rays striking the tent + melted any snow thereon until there were pools on the flounce, while + water inside the aluminium cooker remained unfrozen for hours. + + Night marching commenced about 9 p.m. The surface was much harder, and + we just managed two sledges for a short distance, but we had to relay + most of the way. + + To the west is the great Piedmont Glacier, thirty miles wide, and + covering a ten-mile belt between the mountains and the sea. The nearer + mountains were all rounded and smoothed by glacial erosion, while the + higher peaks behind rose into jagged summits, pitted by numerous cwm + valleys, which showed that they had never been beneath a thick ice + mantle. + + To the east appeared a brown island about 100 feet high and a quarter + of a mile long. It had a well-defined ice-foot, and I hoped that we + were to chart a new island. Gran and Forde were eager to examine this, + and while we were surveying the coast they marched a mile or so + towards it. But our “island” was merely a stranded berg coloured brown + by the large amount of silt included in the ice. In some such way + numerous “islands,” such as the Nimrod group, have crept on to the + chart, for no one has been able to sight them since their discovery. + + We camped just after midnight for lunch, at which I presided. As + usual, it consisted of tea, biscuits (hard sledging tack for Gran and + me, and soft “Shackleton” biscuits for Debenham and Forde), raisins, + butter, and chocolate. + + The _Discovery_ map was obviously quite incorrect here, and our chief + guide was Professor David’s account. From the times of his daily + marches we expected to reach Granite Harbour earlier than the rough + chart indicated, for he speaks of the harbour as being twenty miles + out of position! The only place for a bay “five miles wide” seemed to + be about ten miles ahead, so that I hoped that a few more days would + settle the question. + + We got a fine view of Erebus, especially of the old crater whose wall + sticks up like a gigantic black fang on the northern slope. Mount + Terror was also visible now round the hump of Erebus. The steam banner + from the latter was very striking, stretching far to the south, and + then, at 8 p.m., shifting to the north after some big puffs. This + usually indicated a strong change in the weather—which was the last + thing we desired in our present position off the inhospitable face of + the Piedmont Glacier! + + We camped on rather thin snow and weighted the tent flounce with the + biscuit boxes. It was very warm inside the tent, and though the outer + air was 14° below freezing, small pools of water lay on the tent + flounces in the full heat of the sun. “I made the dinner. The pemmican + was not bad, though not so creamy as Deb’s, which has a reputation. It + is a month to Christmas, and we have been sledging three weeks. I find + it much more pleasant than last February, even with our abnormal + loads. I plan out things while pulling automatically, and the miles + pass along somehow. Camps are much more comfortable, and of course it + is warmer now! + + “It is very confusing having breakfast at 7.30 p.m., and sleeping or + trying to sleep through the day. I find it rather hot, and generally + only sleep four hours and think away the other four. However, there is + no comparison between the surface by night and by day, for though the + sun is bright at midnight he is not nearly so high or warm and does + not melt the ice surface. We camped about half a mile from the huge + Piedmont, and set out next day for a remarkable line of icebergs. On + our left was the great glacier, the cliff edge dropping to sea-level + at a brownish boss which I thought might show some rock. But it was + merely stained ice badly crevassed and stepped like a land-slip. I + expected to reach this the same night, but luckily our sledge-meter is + a better guide as to when we’ve done enough. Four and a half miles, if + we have been relaying, takes eleven hours hard work (less lunch-time). + Anyhow, the brown boss was still three miles beyond our camp, as we + found later. (I expect that the pseudo-island was derived from this + breaking ice-cape, for there was a huge group of bergs just ahead of + us.) + + “I don’t take very full geological notes for obvious reasons. We see a + piece of rock about every three days!” + + There was in fact no leisure for any scientific work. We were too + dog-tired to stir far from the tent. Even the ice was unusually + uninteresting from a scientific point of view. We watched it with very + particular care nevertheless. Hereabouts a rather low screw-pack had + been covered by recent snows, and the alternation of hard blocks and + trenches filled with snow made a surface calculated to keep us all on + the _qui vive_. I took Gran abreast of me in the harness, and so we + explored most of the pitfalls, thereby saving Debenham’s lame leg from + the worst surfaces. + + We did some wonderful wriggles, and if the ice ridges were fairly + frequent—say every five feet—the sledges revelled in the track. For + the runners only touched at these points, and the weight was supported + above the soft fields of snow. + + It was a wonderful field of bergs among which we now encamped. There + were fifteen in all shapes and sizes. Several were low and tabular, + while two were higher and cubic in shape. One was a dirty brown, and + was possibly a brother of the pseudo-island. Two others were shaped + like newts, with a sharp jagged crest. They were, I suppose, + overturned bergs. + + At 9.30 on the evening of the 26th we left our camp among the bergs, + and dodged in and out among them towards the low rocky cape just to + the north of us. Huge granite tors crowned it, and great blocks of ice + six feet across had been hurled many feet on to the cape by the gales + of the preceding season. I halted to photograph these, and Debenham + and Gran climbed on to the granite tors. To my amazement Gran called + out that Granite Harbour was in sight. I hastily climbed up and found + we were right at it! This small cape was actually the southern portal, + and the entrance looked about ten miles across. + + As in New Harbour there seemed to be two chief arms, the larger + southern portion receiving the Mackay Glacier, and the other being + almost completely bounded by smaller inflowing glaciers. + + On the cape were numerous skuas, looking very cold, and dancing about + on chilly feet. They squawked loudly and flapped their wings at us, + but had not laid any eggs as yet, for Forde gave this matter his + particular attention! He reported a feasible track across the cape + which would save a difficult journey through the screw-pack. I agreed + to try the overland journey, and we got across the wide tide crack and + up fifteen feet on to the icy col with much less trouble than I had + expected. “This col rose to about thirty feet on the north side, and + evidently water is driven on to it by gales, for the ice was quite + glassy at first. We relayed across, to the astonishment of the skua + gulls. We passed a fine little polished platform of granite, and then + sharply descended to the sea-ice, and by 1 a.m. were within the + harbour.” + + This was very gratifying, and our early arrival was due to several + pieces of good luck. Debenham’s leg had continued to improve in spite + of the gallant way in which he insisted on doing as much work as any + of us; we had met with splendid weather since leaving Butter Point; + the two days’ sail had helped us materially, and finally we found that + the harbour was twelve miles nearer than we had reason to expect. + + About 4 a.m. on the 27th November we trekked west up the harbour. Far + away was a high dolerite cliff with a small glacier just notching its + edge. To this we gave the name of “Spillover,” and we made for it as a + prominent landmark. + + We were now naturally very anxious to identify the bluff which Captain + Scott had arranged as our rendezvous with Pennell. We were told that + it was about five hundred feet high, and Ferrar had described it as + resembling a cabbage! We could see nothing remotely approaching this + description, nor indeed anything very like a photograph of it, which + appeared in the _Discovery_ volume. + + We were so interested in this unexplored region that we pulled the + front sledge along till the second sledge seemed a mere speck to the + eastward. In fact, we failed to notice that the weather was growing + very thick to southward, while a threatening tablecloth was covering + Erebus. We hurried back. The stage was nearly three times the normal + distance. I know it seemed such an interminable distance that I + wondered if the sea-ice were carrying the sledge away! + + We got back to our first sledge just in time and pulled in to a little + crag of granite which projected below the frowning cliffs of ice. This + we called First View Point, for from it we could see a bold promontory + which was possibly our rendezvous. Indeed, the error in the map had + made me doubtful if we were in Granite Harbour at all! + + View Point was not an ideal camp site. There was no snow, and really + no room for the tent. But we managed to get it spread loosely in a + little alcove, and though it flapped wildly all night, yet we were + very thankful to be on _terra firma_ in the blizzard, even if it were + only a yard or two wide. + + Outside the drift blew in great sheets off the glacier sixty feet + above us. The temperature was twenty below freezing, but we were very + snug in the tent, and I slept for nine solid hours. + + We left View Point next day, as the blizzard was only a brief one, and + pushed west. Soon we had to cross a giant shear crack some forty feet + wide. Luckily the main channel was frozen in places, and we got across + without difficulty, and then reached a small glacier tongue which + drained the Piedmont. Very heavy clouds again obscured the south, and + I felt it wise to take advantage of this good camping site and sit out + the impending blizzard. So we pitched the tent off the end of the + tongue near a splendid snowdrift which afforded us perfect blocks for + securing the tent. Soon beautiful flakes of snow were falling. Some + were delicate crystal bundles like a pine branch, others were like + little cog wheels with six teeth. It continued to snow most of the + day, and as night marching was not advisable for survey work, I felt + that we could now take a little more time and return to day-sledging. + We cut out breakfast and kept comfortably to our bags all the morning, + having lunch at 1.30. Our last meal had been lunch also! Gran caused + some amusement by demanding two cakes of chocolate, as due from the + missed meal. + + Cooking was a great responsibility, and one that I was never anxious + to undertake. Still, even an indifferent cook like myself could not go + far wrong with such simple foods as we had at our disposal. Debenham + “had a light hand with the pastry,” as I have recorded previously, and + I used to watch his methods closely. The only “variable factor” was + the “thickers” in the hoosh. This ingredient varied a little, from + peaflour to wheatmeal or crushed biscuit: but the pemmican was (like + the butter at Cambridge) cut to measure! The cook would take out the + greasy lumps from the weekly bag and loosely fill an aluminium mug + with them. Then he would drop this measure in among the ice and + half-melted snow in the cooker and leave it there to boil. Apparently + the chief art with the thicker consisted in mixing it to a smooth + paste first with a little water—laboriously ladled out of the outer + cooker—and then pour it into the “hoosh” just as the mixture boiled + up. + + It was good stuff! It had a rich taste, especially when solid with + ground biscuit after Gran’s famous recipe. Months later, when tasting + a rich Melton Mowbray pie, a memory of the Antarctic rose before me. + There were the four of us; Forde phlegmatically breaking biscuit into + his pot; Debenham blowing lustily into his, and finally spoiling it by + cooling it in the snow-floor; Gran swallowing it piping hot so that + tears came to his eyes, and he fairly wriggled on his sleeping-bag; + and lastly, the anxious cook not daring to taste his, but manipulating + pots and spoons in the effort to produce steaming cocoa before all the + “hoosh” was finished. + +[Illustration: + + A PANORAMA OF CAPE ROBERTS, WHERE THE WESTERN PARTY WAS ISOLATED FOR + THREE WEEKS. LOOKING NORTH. +] + +[Illustration: + + AVALANCHE CLIFFS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF GRANITE HARBOUR. +] + + I started sledging an ardent cocoa-drinker, but soon realized that + there was much to be said for tea at midday. We had a belief that it + refreshed one quicker than cocoa, and so we used to have it at + breakfast also quite frequently. Upon this journey we did not bring + cheese, and I certainly never missed it after the superfluity in the + hut. Raisins were allotted to us, but I think “stoned dates” would + have been better, for one never seemed to have enough to taste in a + spoonful of raisins! The butter was fine! Sometimes I would save some + of the precious lumps of sugar; and an original sweetmeat resulted if + one bit alternately into the frozen butter and the sugar! The + chocolate we usually nibbled at the four o’clock halt; while any + biscuit left over would be dumped into the hold-all pocket on one’s + jersey and eaten at the same time. Debenham never could eat all his + biscuit at the meals, and somehow often had a bit to spare which we + couldn’t resist. + + I used to save some of my evening butter in my pot for the morning. + Occasionally hoosh would be poured on it by a hasty cook, and then my + biscuit had to be eaten dry; a small matter, for the hoosh was the + richer. Once or twice on our trek we came to pools of water, and then + Forde would polish up the pots; but thereafter queer mixtures would + gradually swamp the true flavours of our foods. The beverage would be + “co-tea,” or “tea-co,” according to circumstances, while suspicions of + many of our past menus would persist until another scouring day + arrived. + + There were some compensations, however, in Polar sledging. One could + obtain water by merely digging a cup into the floor, and the absence + of flies and of rain were blessings indeed. However, the air was not + quite aseptic. Many of the carcases of sheep went bad, and one of our + party was very sick from the butter before we finished our journey. + + The snow ceased about 4 p.m., and Gran and I walked to the root of the + ice tongue to examine it. It was a mile and a half long and was fed by + a well-defined overflow from the Wilson Piedmont, which had cut its + way through granite cliffs some 200 feet high. There were several + “chimneys” offering tracks up the cliffs. One had a rough rock figure + at its base, and led Gran to remark, “This is an ome.” I realized he + meant “good omen,” and accordingly we tackled the chimney indicated. + Lichen and mosses welcomed us on the flat summit, where some hundred + yards of granite-strewn platform marked where the piedmont had + retreated from the edge. We investigated the gully between the tongue + and the cliffs, here almost vertical. As usual there was no sign of + grooves or striation, though the ice was much disturbed at the base of + the cliff, and we had to cross many small crevasses. + + Early on the 29th I waked the others, hoping to make an early start. + Unfortunately something went wrong with the primus; I am afraid some + spirit was mixed with the paraffin. At any rate we had an anxious hour + testing the apparatus, which formed our only source of heat while + sledging, but found nothing out of order except the fuel. + + We had been looking forward to sledging over the vast sheet of clear + ice within Granite Harbour. But the late snowfall had ruined our + chances, and we had practically no easy sledging during the whole of + the journey. Personally I was so pleased that we had safely reached + the Harbour, that a day or two more or less now did not worry me. + + At the end of the second stage Forde discovered a cave in the granite + cliffs. It was about fifty feet high and twenty feet wide. I think it + was due to the sea tearing out the loosened blocks along a large + fracture in the granite, though such an occurrence is necessarily rare + on icebound coasts. + + I was very anxious to find a suitable spot for a headquarters camp, + and so far not a single spot was large enough to pitch the tent upon. + In the bay just east of the huge bluff there seemed to be some rock + slopes. Most picturesque at the head of the bay was a great granite + cliff festooned with narrow glaciers hanging over like ribbons. We + heard several avalanches here, and so called the place Avalanche Bay. + In the corner was a steep slope of glacial debris—partly mud and + partly gravel and boulders. We climbed up this for two hundred and + fifty feet, and so could look down on a small glacier which occupied a + bowl-shaped hollow in the coast-line. This would appear to be a cwm + valley into which the Piedmont Glacier has flowed. + + “After supper it cooled somewhat, and we started out for some relay + work. We could see the Bluff quite close, and after half a mile I + judged we were halfway and went back for the second sledge. Then on + again, and we never seemed to get any nearer. It was nearly two miles + off and we were all tired on arrival. However, we plugged back for the + second sledge, and it was a weary grind! As Debenham remarked: ‘We + were too tired to think!’ We got in about 11.30 and pitched camp on + poor snow, fetching blocks of ice from the wide tide crack to weight + the flaps. + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by Gran._] + + THE FIELD OF CREVASSES (SKAUK) AT THE ROOT OF MACKAY TONGUE, JAN. 6, + 1912. + + Behind are the faceted slopes of Mount Allan Thomson. Photo from the + Flat Iron looking N.W. +] + + “We were much amused by the laments of a young seal (still in its + woolly coat) for its mother. ‘Baa-aa!’ he said, quite plainly, like a + cross between a lamb and a vigorous young bull. This resounded from + the five-hundred-foot granite cliff above, and occasionally the mother + re-echoed it from the tide crack where she wisely kept! I was glad to + see about eight seals here. I expect we shall kill most of them! + Trigger caught the young one by the tail, and it bellowed and tried to + get away. It took to water readily. There was a well-defined margin of + level fixed ice, ten yards wide, following the coast all along. We + turned in at midnight tired out and not much worried by the baa-ing of + the seals.” + + Before turning in we saw a most remarkable sight to the east. Sailing + over the Ross Sea towards the south was a fleet of cloud galleons. The + hulls appeared as bright white glares separated from each other by + dark nimbus. The lower sails were sheets of stratus, and beautiful + cumulus floated over each. At the front of each the advancing vapours + were curved to form the galleon’s bows. + + On the 30th we relayed round the face of Discovery Bluff, leaving one + sledge on the firm ice-foot beyond the seals’ pool while we marched on + with the other to try and find our summer headquarters. The Bay ice + was torn every half-mile by huge shear cracks, but luckily they were + still narrow and we crossed them readily enough. + + We now opened up a small bay, and I could see a fine camp site just + ahead. I made straight for a rough beach which was covered with + granite blocks. I was glad to see that lichens and moss were growing + here in some abundance, for it indicated that this was a sheltered, + sunny spot. + + Behind the beach was a steep slope leading to a little plain about + four hundred feet up. I climbed up to this while the others explored + the beach and the small cape to westward. Soon I reached the further + edge of the plain, and from here I had a magnificent view up the great + Mackay Glacier. There was a well-defined glacier entering the bay in + the south-west corner, which had a fairly gentle slope. Up this I + hoped to find a route to the interior, for the other outlets of the + glaciers were crevassed to a greater extent than in any of the other + regions. In fact, the ice river resembled a great ploughed field where + every furrow was a huge crevasse. Gran said such an area would be + called Skauk in Norway. He said they used Icelandic terms for their + new words, much as we do Greek. I think this term might be introduced + into our nomenclature, at any rate we used it thereafter. + +[Illustration: Our Water Supply. The Granite Pool at Cape Geology. +13–1–12] + + Meanwhile Debenham had found an excellent spot for our permanent camp. + We were very satisfied with the outlook. One reads of the advantage of + a “gravel subsoil.” Here between some large boulders was a patch of + gravel. To be sure it was full of irregular blocks of granite and half + covered with snow; but by hand-picking it and raking it over and over + we rid ourselves of the “feathers in the bed,” and also got our + tent-site ultimately fairly dry. The small elevated plain was going to + give us a bountiful water supply when the weather got warmer. In fact, + Debenham entered into a disquisition on “hydraulic grades” and the + “origin of springs,” to show that we should have water laid on past + our tent! The snow never melted sufficiently for running water, but + Forde evolved a fine reservoir in a few days. He cleaned out a hollow + in a huge granite tor, and the sun’s heat acting on a snow dam at one + side usually gave us a sufficient supply. Great blocks of bay ice + driven up in a previous summer formed our cool storage. Just off the + Bluff was fuel and food in the shape of seals. Buttresses of granite + crossed the beach, and between two of these was an area where our + kitchen was almost half built. Surrounded on three sides by solid + granite walls three feet high was an enclosure which we managed to + roof in well enough to hold the blubber stove. Forde and Gran were + especially keen on this edifice, which they called Granite House from + Verne’s “Mysterious Island.” + + It was a day or two before the house was finished. Forde was master + mason and Gran chief labourer. He used to delight in bringing to the + site great cubes of granite which we others could hardly move. There + was a most uncomfortable block of granite projecting into the hut, but + by the repeated dropping of huge blocks on to it, Gran finally managed + to remove this excrescence. + + After lunch on the 30th Gran and I went off to obtain the wherewithal + for our first seal hoosh. Luckily there was a seal a quarter of a mile + from the camp, and we soon slew him in the usual manner. Gran would + attract the doomed animal’s attention, while I stole alongside from + behind and stunned him with a blow on the nose. This was almost the + chief use I made of the geological hammer, for Debenham was making the + rock collections while I studied glacial topography chiefly. + + Forde gave us a lesson in butchering. Most people do not realize that + a seal is not far removed from an otter. Anyhow, his anatomy is near + enough to that of a sheep for one to know where the choicest meat + lies. In fact, a seal’s skeleton is just like a sheep’s, in which the + two hind legs have been folded together close to the tail and + converted into swimming flappers. + + We cut off two wide strips of blubber first from the belly; then + rolled the seal over—an operation of great difficulty—and obtained two + more from the back. Beneath these strips of blubber were the best + portions of the flesh, except the liver, which needed especial + anatomizing. Around the neck I cut off odd bits of blubber, and one of + these served to cook a meal on the stove, so that there was plenty of + fuel on a seal to cook the meat it provided. + + We staggered back laden with spoil, leaving the carcase to a multitude + of skuas. How they quarrelled and fought over the pieces! Every skua + seemed to prefer to grab a piece already selected by another. I + suppose they were not used to tearing fragments off such a superfluity + of carcase! We welcomed these visitors, for we had in mind future + tasty dishes based on skua eggs. + + It snowed during the night, about one inch falling, chiefly as needles + and fluff-balls. All this spoiled future sledging, but we watched it + philosophically now that we had got our main supply to its + destination. + +[Illustration: Gomphocephalus. Antarctic “Springtail” 1.2.11] + + I turned in later than the others, and, on having a last look round, I + noticed some dark specks floating on a little pool. With no organic + matter in the air, this seemed unusual, and on closer examination I + found that these were the long-desired insects! They were little + bluish fellows shaped like a cigar, with six legs and no wings. I was + very pleased, and rushed to inform my sleeping mates. I am sorry to + record that they did not seem to think the discovery worth the loss of + their first sleep! Each insect was about one millimetre long, so that + twenty-five only measure an inch, and they clustered together like + aphides. + + Next morning I received congratulations, as it was my birthday. The + sledge flags were hoisted on a line between two depôt poles. We hung + up the red-and-black depôt bunting also in honour of the occasion. + Debenham said he had no present for me, but he could not allow me to + cook my birthday dinner. I noticed that the others seemed overjoyed + that I should be relieved of my cooking duties for one meal! + + “However, I did breakfast, and made a fine hoosh. The great secret is + to mix the wheatmeal, pepper, salt, etc., well, and pour it in _just + before_ the pemmican boils, giving it only five minutes. It is much + more slippery and soothing than if you cook the ‘thickers’ longer. I + shall be quite an accomplished cook later on!” + + About 11 a.m. Gran, Forde, and I brought the other sledge in from the + Bluff. After lunch we unloaded the stores, mustered them, and placed + them under a big rock until the hut should be ready to receive them. + + “We seem to be especially rich in raisins. I fear I forgot to take out + a bag at Cape Evans. Gran is going to sow sea-kale here, so that our + vegetables and fruits should be plentiful! + + ”About 5.30 a long streamer of smoke announced that the famous stove + was going, and Debenham made a splendid liver-fry, followed by cocoa + in very quick time. Gran produced a bottle of Savoy sauce, which he + had carried as part of his personal gear, and presented it to me. No + present could possibly have been more acceptable, as any one who has + lived on one dish for a month will realize. I could have eaten two + whacks of the fry easily! We decided to use the bottle at one meal + instead of spinning it out, but (as Wendell Holmes remarked about the + honeypot) you can’t pour out the last dregs from a sauce-bottle. Some + one suggested we should draw lots for these precious dregs. (Privately + I thought they belonged to me, but I nobly agreed!) So, in the way + they have in the navy, I thought of a word of five letters, and I said + that the last alphabetical letter should win the prize (as a matter of + fact I had thought of ‘Savoy’). Gran gave me the third letter (_v_), + and he took the first. Debenham took the fourth, and then I felt safe. + But Forde took the last (_y_), and so won the sauce. A very sorrowful + moment! This ingenuous game always entranced me; it trusted so + implicitly in the leader’s lack of American ‘smartness,’ for the word + was not divulged until the numbers were out! + + The method bewildered me when I first heard it, but I hope the above + account is lucid. + + The next day Gran became cook, and gave us a fine hoosh, after which I + started trying to get the astronomical position of our headquarters. + Gran explained the way the Norwegian fishermen obtain latitude and + longitude by very simple yet sufficiently accurate methods. They + observe the sun at 11.30, again near noon, and at 12.30. By this means + they get the local time of noon by calculating halfway between the + other two observations, which should be nearly the same reading. The + noon reading is a check. + + Unfortunately in 77° S. the sun pursued a placid path which was nearly + horizontal, and it was very difficult to find the “keystone” of such a + flat “arch” as he described! + + We had unloaded one sledge and converted it into the roof-tree of our + granite hut. It was necessary to collect sealskins to cover our house, + and as the walls were now high enough, Gran and I went off on a + fur-hunting trip. About half a mile away was a big seal, and I + determined to secure him. + + “It was extraordinary how long the muscular action lasted, for this + animal was stabbed three times in the heart and pithed three times in + the brain. We had great difficulty in turning him over; there is + nothing so slimy, heavy, and sloppy as a huge sheet of blubber and + skin. We managed to roll the heavy hide on to the sledge, but it would + not stay there. Just like a slow moving glacier it slipped off + everywhere. ‘Trigger’ took off his belt and lashed it on, and we + managed to start by sticking the ice-axes in to keep some from + dragging in the snow. We had to cross an ugly shear crack about four + feet wide, regularly torn in the floe by the pressure of the glacier, + but it was no trouble by using the interlocking promontories. We + cooked tea on the blubber stove, whose white smoke lends homeliness to + our headquarters.... We named the latter Cape Geology, in memory of + the chief object of our journey, though we had been able to do very + little scientific work so far. + + “After lunch Debenham and I proceeded to flense the blubber off, + laying the hide on a rounded boss of ice. It was slow work, for the + sun warmed the blubber so that it was as easy to cut as flannel two + inches thick. We dug out a cache between two blocks of ice and put the + meat and blubber therein, covering them with smaller blocks of ice, + and this storehouse served well after we had taken the precaution to + mark it with a bamboo, so that it was not lost in the snow. + + “I made a granite seat in the hut, and will have a fur carpet, for it + is cold for the toes on the snowy floor. The stove smokes badly, but + gives off enormous flames and heat, only burning 10″ × 3″ × 10″ of + blubber per meal....” Soon, however, the soot and oil filled the + bottom of the stove, and then it ran out over the rocks and spread all + over the snowy floor. We had to stand in this fearful mixture, which + is dirtier than the grease in a foul motor engine, and much more + ubiquitous. The smoke made one gasp as eddies drove it into the face, + and we never managed a door for the hut to keep out the icy winds + blowing down from Mount England. + + The sledge ran along the centre of the roof, and the chimney projected + through it. Biscuit-boxes helped to form the roof, but sealskins + enough to cover it were gradually collected. Forde said it was as good + as many an Irish shebeen, which made me pity the Irish more than + anything I had yet heard of them! However, it saved our fuel, and kept + our field notes and sketches cleaner than if we were cooking in the + tent, so that we feel that this sample of Antarctic architecture + fulfilled a worthy purpose. + + “I cut up the seal meat and insisted on adding meat to the liver, for + we should need to kill a seal every other day at the rate the cook + wants liver! I’m bound to say that I am the biggest eater. Gran had a + reputation that way, but he has not eaten as much, and Debenham and + Forde are very poor eaters.” It was very cold in the granite hut. I + sat in the doorway to try and keep out the draught, and was very glad + to trot out and warm my toes after cocoa. “The skuas don’t show any + particular inclination to lay yet. Perhaps they see it won’t be worth + their while. Nor do they seem at all anxious to clean the blubber from + the sealskin we left for them.” + + Our tent was in the shadow of the Bluff all night, and so it was quite + cold in spite of the midnight sun. Gran and I set out next day to put + up the rendezvous flag, and to kill a seal, while Forde and Debenham + finished the hut. + + We climbed up one of the chimneys or steep gullies which scored the + front of the Bluff for several hundred feet, and then got out on to a + knob, where we raised a red flag on a stout bamboo pole. I found a + fine deep crack, and Gran wedged it in very solidly with blocks of + granite. From this view point I made a great discovery, that there is + an ice tongue about one mile wide and five miles long, projecting from + the _skauk_ of the Mackay Glacier. Bay ice fringes the cliffs beyond + it, and as the map shows, the tongue extends almost down the middle of + Granite Harbour. + + We had many arguments about this tongue. The _Discovery_ must have + been close to it in 1902. Debenham was inclined to think that it had + grown since that date; but later we saw a photo from the _Discovery_ + which showed that it was in existence then. + + I wrote a note to Pennell, and lashed it to the mast, telling him we + were going inland till January the 8th. We then hurried down the + screes, and went out on the bay ice to slay our seal. “He died + rapidly, thank goodness, and we plugged through our job till about + 2·15, having an awful time tying the hide and blubber on the sledge, + while the liver lobes ran all over it. Gran swears they worked their + way uphill, and came out of the folds of skin! I threw some bits into + the shear crack, while washing the liver, and the hole was soon full + of amphipods, which are cousins of the shrimps. Gran says he is going + to fish hereabouts if he can get a hook.” + + On the 4th December we began to collect gear for our next trip. Forde + spent a lot of time at the blubber stove, where he was the most expert + cook. He cut up large lumps of seal, and fried enough for eight meals. + This was mixed with pepper and salt, and about half cooked. He then + filled a large tin with this rough substitute for pemmican, and lashed + it on to the sledge. I used to enjoy a snack of this half-cooked seal + between meals, for there was now no doubt that our appetites were of + the true Antarctic variety. + + We had cleaned several skins now, and we fixed them over the roof-tree + of our hut. I sewed up the flipper holes, and each skin was about + eight feet by six. We lashed them to the sledge, in the middle, and + then hung huge stones from the outer margins, which drew them taut, + and held the skins close to the walls. They soon became very sooty, + but were always translucent, for the hairs are large and coarse, and + not at all closely set. We could just stand up under our sledge + roof-tree. Forde spread gravel over the blubber-ice composition on the + floor, and I gathered some moss and tried to stuff up the crevices + therewith. When the cold wind blew down the hills it invaded our hut, + and made us glad as soon as the sooty meal was over, and we could take + refuge in our snug little tent below. + + That evening Gran and I climbed up to the top of the bluff, above the + flag. The sides were covered with granite debris; some colossal blocks + were twenty feet across. In the clay beneath them were mosses and + lichens, one of the latter being of a fine frondose shape, with + root-like attachments. I collected this specimen, and boxed it on my + return; but the skuas had scattered our specimens when the ship’s + party finally arrived in 1913. + +[Illustration: + + GRANITE HUT, CAPE GEOLOGY. + + Forde and Gran are cooking at the blubber stove, whose chimney + projects behind the “sledge” roof-tree. +] + +[Illustration: + + FORDE COOKING SEAL-FRY ON THE BLUBBER STOVE AT CAPE ROBERTS. +] + + We got up in about one hour, and I began to have my doubts about the + five-hundred-feet height mentioned in the 1902 record! Luckily, I had + an aneroid, and this showed it to be over fifteen hundred feet high. I + got a magnificent view of Granite Harbour and the Mackay Glacier. The + large ice tongue ended in three splay “fingers,” and was badly + crevassed, except right at the end. Far to the east I could see Mount + Erebus and Beaufort Isle. Below was a regular succession of shear + cracks, due to the irresistible pressure of the Mackay Tongue pushing + out the bay ice. Great pressure ridges, six, ten, and fifteen feet + high marked where the bay ice was being jammed on to the Bluff. These + were very prominent near Cape Geology also, and pools of water + collected in the hollows between the ridges. + +[Illustration: + + Pressure-ridges in the sea-ice, looking west from Cape Geology to the + Punch Bowl cwm, January 13, 1912. +] + + On the afternoon of the 5th we started to the north, to march around + the end of the Mackay Tongue, which lay about five miles off. We were + now crossing ice covered with nearly a foot of snow; but with only one + sledge and ten days’ food, we got along in fine style. We could easily + see our signal flag flying on the Bluff, and the red showed quite + clearly when the wind blew it out. We reached one of the “fingers” at + the end of the ice tongue about 6.30, and here I decided to camp, so + as not to lose sight of our survey stations. + + “There seems to be no large tide crack here, which means that the + tongue is floating. It is broken into deep lateral bays, and consists + of regular rolls and hollows. I don’t believe that storms affect this + harbour much, or it would have gone out long ago. We pitched the tent + on soft snow, just off the end. I got ice from the glacier for the + cooker, which Forde declared was salty from old sea spray. Anyhow, the + hoosh was very good.” + + Far to the west we could see a huge black mountain projecting through + the Mackay Glacier. It was formed of black dolerite capping granite, + and reminded me of a three-cornered Chinese junk. Debenham objected to + this name as being unworthy of such a fine nunatak, and proposed + Gondola Mountain. We knew it by this name during our expedition, but + on my return to Sydney I discovered that Professor David had seen it + from the coast, and had called it Mount Suess. So Mount Suess + displaces Debenham’s euphonious title. + + “The sky looked very ugly—the sun dimly glaring through gloomy + clouds—a low, thick, dark bank on the eastern horizon, and the + barometer falling half an inch in the twelve hours. So far nothing has + happened, but now (10.30 p.m.) snow has just begun, and may keep on + some time; for I see, from the log, that we had similar conditions at + Harbour Tongue on the 28th. The temperature is +23°, and we are very + comfortable; for though we are on sea-ice, yet we can reach the + glacier in twenty yards, and there is twenty miles of ice between us + and the open water.” + + I am going to copy my notes, for the next few days, _verbatim_, for + they give a fairly complete account of a typical summer blizzard in + Antarctica. If the language seems a trifle strong, the circumstances + should be considered. + + “_Wednesday, December 6, 1911._—10 a.m. We are held up in our first + violent blizzard, and it is just a month since we started. We have had + snow blizzards, but this has wind force about 7 as well, and the drift + is thick and wetting. + + “We have a pretty snug camp on snow, one foot thick, which you can + accommodate to your hip-bone, but which it is difficult to stand the + Primus upon (especially as the cooker _base_, on which it usually + rests, is full of fat, and is now our frying pan at the _hut_). It + started snowing about midnight, and clothed the tent by 3 a.m. I woke + to hear the tent flapping, and shaking down young avalanches, and it + has been going strong ever since. + + “There is always a strong bulge _in_ on the windward (S.E.) side, and + slighter bulges at the two lateral tent segments. Then the door, if + properly placed, tends to blow _out_, and the laterals next to it do + most of the flapping, and make a deuce of a row. + + “2 p.m. Still blizzing strongly; there have been one or two lulls of a + few minutes; but they don’t seem to mean much. It is snowing + furiously, too; pattering on the tent like rain on wooden shingles. If + you budge from the tent (Debenham had to get a notebook) you get very + cold, because the drift melts and wets you at this temperature (+23° + F.). We had a meal about 11 a.m., Gran cooking a good bovril-pemmican, + with a large supply of broken biscuit therein. This strong south-east + wind blows practically direct from Cape Roberts on to the tongue on + our lee, and so I do not much fear it will shift out any ice. Anyhow, + we can’t move, and I am learning to take these blizzes + philosophically. Besides, the bags are dry and warm, and when I tire + of writing the diary I snooze a bit, and then read Harker’s + ‘Petrology’ (Deb’s), and then snooze, and then read ‘Poe’s Tales’ (too + fantastic and oriental to please me are most of them), or ‘Martin + Chuzzlewit,’ or do some German grammar. Forde is actually reading + something. He has tackled ‘The Mysterious Island’ which Gran has + nearly finished at last. Deb started to work out a latitude, but is + now wrapped in ‘Morfus.’ Last night’s hoosh was an enormous success, + 2½ pots of Forde’s concentrated seal hoosh, mixed with water and meal, + made a top-hole hoosh—very tasty, and all indigenous. + + “6 p.m. The tent is beastly sloppy. We have just finished our _lunch_ + at 6 p.m., and if we can’t get away, that is our last meal to-day! + To-day is a queer camp, the first down here where the tent has dripped + on us, when no Primus is going. We have put the cooker under the + tied-up door, and it is filling, I see! Forde is dressing his finger + with a penknife, and Deb keeping warm very sensibly in his bag. + + “_December 7, 1911._—Slept pretty well. Dreams, as usual, furnished + some conversation ’twixt Gran and me, and occasionally Deb. I had a + very vivid one (or two) after two pots of seal fry the other night. + + “I was walking to Sheffield and got lost, and couldn’t get any one to + tell me the way. I asked a man and couldn’t get any great satisfaction + out of him. He saw some of my Antarctic gear in my bag, and said I + looked as if I was going to the Pole, but would not believe me when I + said I’d been there! I then told him my name (to impress him, no + doubt!), and he was not a bit concerned, but said his name was + _Taylor_ also! Then I switched off home, where everybody was much + concerned about the end of the world, or something equally cheerful. + There was an awful red sky to the south which caused great + perturbation, until finally some one called out, ‘It’s the return of + the mail-clad “goater”-cars from the Pole!’ These were a sort of red + motors assisted by goats, and were quite the latest thing in transport + evidently, and I was much pitied because I didn’t know all about them. + But a bad pun in a dream seems to denote too much fry! + + “It is now noon, and we are still snowed up off the end of Mackay + Tongue (43 _hours_ now and we have not got _away_). It dripped most of + the night, for the temperature was +27° outside and warmer inside. + There was a puddle by the door, but Gran and my bags have absorbed + most of that, and Deb’s is wetter. So far the inside of mine is still + O.K., and I have fur inside always now. It is much warmer, and as soft + and comfortable as anything I’ve slept in as far as I remember. We + have been trekking over a month, and though we’ve had almost unique + hard relaying for two weeks—330 per man—yet I enjoyed it much more + than the Ferrar trip under better conditions. + + “We got up at 8, and Gran made a biscuit-bovril-pemhoosh, which was + very good. We had only two meals yesterday, so went a full whack this + morning. I put on my boots and wind-coat and puttees, and dug out the + thermometer. The sledge is buried two feet in snow. Deb’s big camera + tripod shows above the snow, and a bamboo pole—also the top of the + shovel,—but the rest is clean buried. The first fall of snow was + consolidated by the blizzard; the last fall, _since 2 p.m._ yesterday, + is fluffy light stuff and quite different in texture. I dug down to + the biscuits and got Deb’s notebook, and then came in and scraped off + the snow and had breakfast. I have finished ‘Martin Chuzzlewit’ this + morning and puzzled over German declensions, and still we can’t see + more than a hundred yards, and it is snowing still. We got a watery + glimpse of the sun about 9; but he’s gone, though, as the north side + of the tent is dripping most, I suppose he’s still about. There’s a + constant rainy patter on the tent, but the snow is so slight it would + not matter if we could see where to steer! However, it’s not hard work + lying still here, and Scott did it seven days; we’ve only had two. + +[Illustration: + + HEAVY SLEDGING OFF MACKAY TONGUE, JUST WHERE WE TRIED TO PACK TO LAND, + DEC. 8, 1911. + + Note the great furrows due to the sledge dragging bodily on the snow. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE “HALF-TON” AFTER NELSON LEFT US, OFF THE MOUTH OF DRY VALLEY, NOV. + 18, 1911. + + Notice the ice-free character of the valley and its faceted walls. + Beneath the flag appears distant “Matterhorn.” The sledge-meter + shows to the left of the tent. + [See p. 339. +] + + “The barometer (29.45) is rising steadily, which denotes, I think, no + more strong wind at present. Our short, sharp blizz was correlated + with a very low barometer of 29.18, whereas 29.80 is about the mean + hereabouts. + + “There is no tide crack off the Tongue, which is five miles from its + parent glacier, and therefore must be floating. Also, as it projects a + hundred feet above sea-level, it must be _500 feet thick_, which is + comforting. + + “We had lunch about two and saw blue sky to the east, Erebus showing + partly; gradually the whole snow cloud blew over _en masse_ to the + west, leaving blue sky and a bright sun. We dug out the sledge, + nothing of which showed, and got off after Deb had taken a photo. + + “We could hardly get a move-out of the sledge and finally harnessed so + as to beat out a bit of a track. The going was awful. Never had such + hard work, and with only one fairly light sledge! It pulled me flat on + my face in the soft mushy snow, and wet me half up to the waist + tramping through it. We managed to get around to the end of the Tongue + and one mile to the north, and then it was after 7 p.m., and I could + not stick it, nor could the others. We pitched camp in the middle of + North Bay. But our floorcloth and tent are dry, which is a great + comfort, and we had a fine seal-hoosh. The trouble is that all our + survey work will be blocked; for two miles’ progress in three hours is + deadly, and this snow is universal. However, I’d rather have it now + than earlier, when we had two heavy sledges, for we couldn’t possibly + have moved either! Perhaps it will cement by to-morrow a bit. The + temperature is down to +13½° (after 27° or so) and the barometer is + still rising steadily. I feel a bit wet and will turn in early. + + “The Tongue is very imposing from this (north) side, being cut up by + bays so deep that they seem to separate it into islands. We hope to + make the end of the Kar Plateau—a long 800-foot flat-topped + shelf—which seemed to show a bit of beach. We had to camp at what + seems one and a half to two miles away in soft snow, which we kicked + away and shovelled off so as to get a fair spread for the floorcloth. + + “_Friday, December 8, 1911._—I doffed some of my clothes and hung them + up inside the tent, if so be they might dry a little. Result, like a + board, for the temperature was only +13. However, I used my eiderdown, + and was jolly snug and warm and slept quite well. + + “My bag is wet outside and it wet the floorcloth. Trigger’s you can + squeeze water out of. We must get a drying spot on the coast. It is a + fair morning with a gusty, cold, plateau wind (W.). The sun is shining + low down in the east through cirrus; but it does not look snowy or + blizzy. + + “(Written Saturday 8 a.m.) We were about two miles from the coast, the + nearest being the end of the _Kar Plateau_. We loaded up the sledge + and gaily proceeded in that direction, anticipating arrival about + noon. But we found we could not pull the sledge, though I doubt if + there is 400 lbs. on it. It just stuck, with the prow covered with + soft snow. Forde gave words to ‘pull all together’ (for he could see + better than I, being at the back), but it was no good. So we stuck up + the flag pole and packed all we could carry on our backs. Gran went + first with his very heavy bag (half water) and the tent poles. He + plugged away in great style, but made rather a devious track as + different parts of the coast appealed to him! Deb followed with a + rucksack on his back and his bag also (and the plane-table halfway). + Forde took the tent and cloth, but didn’t wrap them up carefully, so + that they rather impeded his movements. I came last with a proper + swag—rucksack in front and bag behind, hung over my shoulders on my + belt. There we were trekking for the land to dry our things a bit and + do some geology. Gran got rather far ahead, and by the time we arrived + near the rocks he was manœuvring with the tent poles near the tide + crack. + + “This was most unsatisfactory; a high ice-foot about two feet or more, + separated by one or two feet space of open water, was bad enough, but + nearly forty feet of the floe was soft and mushy, and through the + thick snow you could not tell which was hard ice and which was open + water. + +[Illustration: + + A TIGHT CORNER! CROSSING THE FORTY-FOOT TIDE CRACK OFF POINT + DISAPPOINTMENT, GRANITE HARBOUR. + + From a drawing by D. Low. +] + + “There were seals all over this mushy stuff, and one came unexpectedly + on their holes nearly buried in snow. Deb and Forde were looking down + one to see the thickness of the mushy ice when one leaped out three + feet and, as Forde said, ‘It nearly frightened a life out of me!’ + + “Gran had laid the poles up against the floe and left his bag just + behind, when the mush gave way and in he went to his waist. He rescued + his bag clinging to the pole, and somehow managed to crawl up the + ice-foot, but he was pretty wet and soon very cold. + + “Deb and Forde sat on their packs by the firmer ice, and I walked + along the sea-ice (while Gran went along the ice-foot) to the north. + We found it all just the same. At every footstep water oozed up, and + evidently the floe was melting top and bottom and had never been + thick. This doubtful area was forty feet wide. At the north, a quarter + of a mile from our track, I managed to get on the ice-foot over three + visible cracks, and I don’t know how many buried in snow. We returned + to the others to find Deb had had one foot through. Having regard to + the difficulty of the surface all the way to our camp—eight miles of + two-foot soft snow, through which we could only pull the sledge at + half a mile an hour with every muscle taut,—I decided it was not safe + to stay over on this shore; for a few days’ sun would probably convert + this mushy belt into open water, and we should have no ready line of + retreat at all. So in view of the Owner’s lectures on caution and my + sledging instructions, I abandoned the idea of camping two or three + days on this north side, and we lugubriously determined to push back + with our packs to the sledge two miles away. First, however, we had to + get Trigger off the ice-foot. I went forward to pick up his bag, and + suddenly went through halfway up to my thigh. Luckily the other foot + kept firm, and I leant backwards and sat back on the less tricky mush. + Then we lashed bag ropes and threw them towards him. He threw the tent + poles on to the mush and then launched himself full length on the + stuff, gripping the poles. The whole floe rocked up and down like + jelly, but the poles kept him up, and he got across to us without + further mishap. It would have been impossible to scramble out if we + had gone through, for there was nothing firm to grip. + + “Forde also volunteered that he thought ‘You done a wise thing to give + that place a miss.’ + + “On our way back Deb stopped to take some angles with the plane-table, + but found that he’d forgotten his sight-rule, so that even _that_ + weight was uselessly lugged forward. We camped for lunch at our night + camp, and then the sun was so hot that it dried our bags nicely. My + feet were very cold and wet, and so were Gran’s. I took a complete + round of angles both vertical and horizontal, and with the necessary + sketching this occupied about two hours. + + “Then about four we pulled off for Camp Blizzard and had a diabolical + time over the two and a quarter miles of soft snow. The old track was + nearly all filled up by a drift from the west, and, though the snow + had compacted a little, it was frightfully heavy work. The marks of + the bamboos on the sledge floor showed that the whole sledge was + resting on the snow. Only off the point of the Tongue did a little of + the old track show and helped us somewhat. My sledge belt began to + feel as if it was being pulled out through my back, and I had to pull + with my hands. We camped about 8 p.m. just near our old Blizzard Camp, + where we had to sweep off a foot of soft snow. I went up the Glacier + Tongue to get ice, but could not reach real ice and had to go over to + a cornice to get air-filled ice. We had an excellent hoosh, four cups + of ‘Forde’s concentrated’ with water added. It made a sort of liver + jelly when boiled a little more, and I had two cups and a glorious cup + of cocoa, cooled so that you could get a good long drink! + + “... And then I gave the diary a miss, hung socks and wet breeches + outside the tent, and slept right through till 8 a.m.!” + + We pushed off for our headquarters next morning and found we could + hardly move the sledge. After struggling a few hundred yards I decided + to see how the runners looked. We unpacked everything, and found an + irregular lamina of ice about a quarter of an inch thick had coated + the runners. This we scraped off with a tin matchbox and then turned + the sledge to face the sun, and in about half an hour they were clean + and dry. The improvement was most marked, and made our light sledge + now only as difficult as the two heavy sledges we had dragged to + headquarters! We read in Arctic books that ice is purposely moulded on + the sledges, but I expect the temperatures are lower, when that method + is useful. + + At lunch we had dragged it about a mile and a half, and we dried the + runners again. I noted that my amber-coloured glasses had a very + pleasing effect; they turned the most gloomy clouds into a beautiful + Italian sky. Everything in the heavens is turned into blue and white, + which is a great change from the dismal views seen through the green + goggles of last year! The relief through using them and the help they + give in picking out hollows in the surface is enormous, but they fog + up somewhat, of course, with perspiration after a short time. + + As we were nearing our headquarters we had a great discussion as to + what had happened to the signal flag. Debenham has excellent sight, + and with the aid of the glasses he swore that he could see the bamboo + lying, broken down. This seemed impossible to me, and I bet him one of + our usual 1_s._ 3_d._ dinners that it had not broken! However, after a + time I saw myself that the thick and solid bamboo pole had snapped. It + was some consolation that his cairn and flag at headquarters had blown + down also! + + We had some difficulty crossing the shear cracks near the camp, for + the snow had covered everything. I prodded cautiously ahead when we + seemed near the largest, and, stepping on, went right in. I had been + standing on the exact edge and tested too far off! However, I escaped + with a slight wetting, which is the proud privilege of the leader, and + we crossed without difficulty. + + We reached our front door at 6.30, finding that the ice had buckled in + our absence, but had not cut us off from shore. Dodging between two + pressure ridges we reached the ice-foot amid the huge storm-blocks of + ice and unloaded with great joy. Everything was buried in snow. + + The 40-lb. biscuit tin was hurled six feet off a rock, and Granite Hut + was half filled with snow. We cleared the gravel patch and soon + pitched our tent, and had a good hoosh inside us. + + Shortly after we turned in it began to blow from the west, a most + unusual quarter. This cold plateau wind increased very rapidly, and by + 2 a.m. was blowing as hard as any wind I ever felt in a tent. It bent + in the stout poles of the tent like whale-bone, and covered the sledge + with a huge ridge of hard snow. The door flapped so violently that + some of us could get no sleep. The wind died down about 5 a.m., and + the 10th turned out to be a beautiful day. We spent an hour clearing + the huge drifts off our sledges, which were completely lost to sight. + + As this was Sunday, I decided we would spend it in tidying up our + camp. Gran and I planted his sea-kale seed in the evening. He said the + Norwegians in Graham Land (West Antarctica) got large crops of this + succulent vegetable! I had my doubts, but it seemed worth trying. + Behind our camp was a huge cluster of granite rocks enclosing a small + cave. We collected some mossy soil and placed it in this hollow, + facing the noon sun. It seemed a bit wet and soggy, but Gran swore the + seedlings would be up in a week and edible in a month. + +[Illustration: ‘Pulpit Rock’, the home of the Sea-Kale 17–1.12] + + “The skuas are squawking like fussy ducks all round us, sometimes + cheeping like young chicks; but they don’t lay eggs, which is their + main duty now.” + + All the moss, which formed a regular peaty layer an inch thick in some + of the gulleys, implied plenty of soakage. But it was a cold summer, + and we never found any drainage when we dug into the hollows. + Moreover, the blackened appearance of the moss made me sure that we + were not seeing it under favourable or even normal conditions. + + A small discomfort, which was to bulk largely in the next few weeks, + began to trouble me. During the seal-killing and flensing I managed to + inflict eight cuts on my hands, all of which healed up in the pure + Polar air, with one exception. It was on the forefinger of my right + hand, and was beginning to fester badly. Gran was our self-constituted + doctor, though I’m bound to say that the stories he told of deathbeds + which he had attended on Norwegian ships were not at all reassuring. + Gravely he felt my pulse and armpit, and then said, “Do you feel pain + here?” I truthfully said “No!” “No blood-poisoning in that finger,” + said he. At any rate it rapidly became worse, and for days I could not + write, sketch, or photograph, while the pain prevented my sleeping at + night. + + The first duty before us was to replace the flag on the rendezvous. + Gran decided it should be of a bolder pattern, and so he inserted a + white specimen bag in the middle of a black depôt flag, which made a + very showy standard indeed. + + After lunch we marched across the bay just east of our camp. This + washed the beach where the moss grew, and in our exiled position it + was natural that Debenham and myself felt that there could be no + better name than Botany Bay for this inlet! The ice surface was in a + peculiarly unpleasant condition. A frozen layer of snow over a foot of + soft snow made walking exceptionally tiring. Flanking the Discovery + Bluff—as we called our rendezvous—was a tumbled scree of granite + blocks mingled with smaller talus and snow. Here, moreover, numerous + little rivulets were rushing down the chimneys scored in the face of + the bluff, so that there was plenty of variety about our walk. + + We reached our flag sooner than I expected; in fact, we climbed up + right above it to nine hundred feet; and had to get down somewhat + circuitously, when a hurtling granite block warned us of precipitous + cliffs directly beneath. I found that our bamboo was as firm fixed as + ever, but it had snapped through like matchwood just at the surface. + The wind seemed to have blown _down_ the face of the Bluff, which was + a most unexpected direction. We mounted it again, after hacking off + four feet waste at the bottom. This fragment was to prove very useful + to us, for I carried it back to camp. + + From this height we could still see nothing but solid ice. By means of + the formula— + + Distance in miles = √(Height in feet) + + it was possible to get some idea of the distance of the horizon. In + this case + + D = √(500) = 23 miles, + + so that the break up of the ice seemed far enough off. To the north by + Point Disappointment I could see the ugly patch of snow-slush which + had nearly engulfed Gran and myself. + + We had a merry meal that evening, at which we decided to have a + sweepstake on the day of the arrival of the ship. But we could not + decide on the prize. We wanted lots of things at the moment, but they + would all be plentiful when we got aboard, and money was obviously of + no value. Finally Gran had a brilliant idea, and suggested that the + winner should have the _first bath_! Even this suggestion met with + disapproval, for some one pointed out that we should have no clean + things on board, and would be sledging for weeks after at Evans Coves, + and so might as well not have a bath at all! + + Debenham and I continued our discussions on Tennyson and Browning. We + both preferred the latter, but Debenham used to try to prove that + Tennyson was the better poet. Gran would join in occasionally, and was + always ready to give an opinion on some debated stanza of Browning’s. + “What porridge had John Keats,” according to our Norwegian critic, + contained an abstruse reference to the gentleman’s brains! Poor Forde + was out of it in these discussions, and we used to discuss naval + matters as a change, for his benefit. But our Irish mate was + essentially a man of action, and was as far removed from a facile + speaker as any man I’ve met. “The Bishop orders his Tomb” was a poem + which had a fascination for me. Many a weary mile has passed + unnoticed, while I have memorized line after line of that somewhat + lugubrious poem. + + On the 12th Gran found two skua eggs. The poor mothers seemed wet and + miserable, and Gran affirmed that the second was sitting in a nest + full of water, and seemed relieved to be free of her charge. We + collected a few every day from now onward. They are smaller than a + hen’s egg, and of a brown colour, with irregular black, tawny and buff + flecks irregularly scattered over the shell. + + On this expedition we had more of the trouble with boots which we had + experienced early in the year. My “ironclads” had lasted splendidly. + The steel spikes and bars had protected the leather completely, and + only on the 14th did the first bar break off. For future work of this + description I should certainly use the heaviest and largest Alpine + boots, and that is the most valuable advice as to equipment that I can + offer to future Antarctic geologists. + +[Illustration: Ironclad Boots for Antarctic Geologists, 15·10·11.] + + I had been busy planning how to measure the velocity of the Mackay + Tongue. This flowed eastward between us and the Kar Plateau, so that + by sighting from our granite cape to a fixed point on the Kar Plateau + cliffs, I could fix very accurately a datum line. It only remained to + plant a mark on the moving glacier somewhere on this line, and our + investigation would be well started. Unfortunately we had nothing for + a mark. I thought of placing a seal carcase on the glacier; for stones + would sink into the ice in a very short time. Finally I used the butt + end of the flag pole from the Discovery Bluff. Here at last we found + the blubber-soot useful, for I used it as a paint to increase the + visibility of a swab of sealskin which I bound on the bamboo stake. + Gran and I marched across to the Tongue carrying the stake and the + theodolite. I never remember any hotter walk than that two miles. The + sun simply made the perspiration pour off us! However, one could + always sit down and have _glace au naturel_ to cool one. Personally, I + never felt any ill result from eating snow in the Antarctic, and all + our party quenched their thirst in this way. + +[Illustration: + + Looking north-west from Cape Geology, showing the granite cliffs of + the Kar Plateau (1000 feet) capped by dolerite. The latter enclosed + the granite “datum” whereby the movement of the Mackay Tongue was + measured. +] + + We climbed up the Tongue without difficulty, but soon entered into a + region riddled with crevasses. They were parallel to the edge of the + tongue, and looked like relics of old lateral pressure rather than + crevasses due to present movement. They were difficult to cross, + especially as Gran’s boots were so slippery. We had to make a big + detour to get on to the transit line. Finally, I got the theodolite + set up, and sighted “fore and back,” until I got the cape and a crack + in the Kar Cliffs in transit with my station. Here we planted the + stake, and then returned _viâ_ the maze of crevasses to the camp. + +[Illustration: Gran’s Bête Noire 15·12·11] + + At first I could hardly see the stake from Cape Geology. The cold air + close to the ice surface is always flickering on a warm day and + mirages all objects; but soon I made it out at two miles through the + telescope, and I could see that we could readily measure a movement of + one foot a day. + + By this time we had collected enough eggs to have a feast. We took the + precaution of frying them, and Forde and I tested them before cooking. + The whites are translucent and faintly bluish, and have very little + taste, but I don’t think we had much fault to find with them. It was + amusing to see Gran’s horror when a twelve-day chicken appeared in one + of the eggs. It was really an interesting discovery, for it showed + that the skuas commenced laying about the 4th of December. We could + not preserve the specimen, but I knew Dr. “Bill” would be interested, + and so I made a sketch of Gran’s _bête noire_. We had a splendid + seal-hoosh, tender, and flavoured with onion powder, and on top of + this was a fried egg for each of us. It was Forde’s _chef d’œuvre_, + and celebrated the close of his week of cooking. + + For the purpose of my survey I laid out a base-line about a mile long + on the bay ice. From the known length of this, as measured by the + sledge-meter, and angles from the two ends it was, of course, possible + to determine the distance of any visible point. Each of these three + points forms a station to which others may be linked; and indeed, in + exactly this manner is a “triangulation” carried out. + + On the 16th we started off to examine and survey the western coast of + the harbour. Here the Mackay Glacier entered the sea, chiefly by the + great tongue, but also by huge ice cliffs to the south, and by the new + glacier in the south-west corner. We headed for a striking cape which + projected from the glacier like a black hand stretched forth from a + snowy cuff of glacier. We called this promontory Cuff Cape. + +[Illustration: + + Sketch-map of region near the Devil’s Punch Bowl, December, 1911. +] + + My finger was very painful, and the swelling now extended right + through my right hand. Luckily I could pull in harness as well as + ever, but for many nights I had no sleep, and I could do little or + nothing in the way of making records during the day. + + However, I became a fairly expert writer with my left hand in the + course of time, but it was very galling to be incapacitated in almost + the most interesting part of our journey. + + We camped on the ice-foot at Cuff Cape and scrambled up to see the + glacier behind. Like all the land hereabouts the rock was covered with + a layer of jumbled blocks of granite mixed up with gravel and clay. + The ice cliff was fifty feet high, and almost free from silt or rock. + Hence the debris on the cape surely marks the condition of the land + prior to the last advance of the glaciers. It is not rock crumbled _in + situ_, for I am sure that would be more in the form of a + gravel—moreover, erratics were common. + + There was, of course, some moraine material, and a few perched blocks + especially along the north shore. In the bay near the Tongue the + latter had broken the bay ice into square cakes, evidently by the + pressure of the glacier; and the movement of the Tongue along the + stagnant ice of Cuff Cape had piled a rampart of ice on top of the + latter. + + The hot sun acting on the ebony front of my camera had actually split + it! Luckily I discovered it in time, and no damage was done to my + photographs. Gran was very pleased at finding an insect on this cape, + and while we were examining this wild animal, he also discovered + “gold.” This latter, however, was only golden mica, though it quite + resembled the precious metal. + + On the 18th we moved across to the next cape. This stood out boldly + with nearly vertical crags a thousand feet high bounding it on two + sides. It closely resembled in shape the sky-scraper called the “Flat + Iron,” and as it also had a flat top we gave it that name. We camped + on the south-east side at the foot of a chimney which led up to a + pretty little tarn. The summit was 1200 feet above the sea and was + covered with a wonderful variety of rocks. + + Looking up the glacier to the west we could see a plateau of dead ice. + The moving glacier split on Mount Suess, and the greater part of the + ice entered the sea as the Mackay Tongue. A small amount flowed down + just south of the Flat Iron forming the “New Glacier” (see map, p. + 376). In my opinion there is a tendency for greater erosion at the + edge of the ice, for here the sapping action in the “lateral moat” is + very active. In the centre of a glacier the only erosion is that due + to glacier planation, and as I have explained, very little of this is + taking place in Antarctica at present. + + There was a marked descent from the top of the Flat Iron to the snow + plateau, and then a steep drop into the “Devil’s Punchbowl.” The + latter was a fascinating spot, and on the 20th we shifted camp so as + to examine it more closely. + + We were encamped on a small beach beneath the rocky wall of the new + glacier, which we called the “Devil’s Ridge.” Probably the state of my + finger accounted for His Satanic Majesty’s frequent presence on the + map hereabouts. The Punch Bowl was an empty cwm or bowl-valley, which + had been eaten into the steep southern edge of the Flat Iron. Its + floor was below sea-level, and it would thus appear to indicate + subsidence, for we have no idea how the accepted methods of eroding + cwms (by “thaw and freeze” chiefly) could act _under_ water. The New + Glacier had very lately ceased to fall over the Devil’s Ridge into the + cwm. It is only six feet below the ridge, and there is a drop of five + hundred feet to the floor of the latter. In fact, thaw waters still + cross the ridge and flow through the debris and down into the cwm. It + is perfectly obvious that very little power is exercised by the “New + Glacier,” or it would have swept the Punch Bowl out of existence. + + There was a little tarn held back by a large bank of snow near the top + of the ridge, and here Gran celebrated midsummer by a bathe! I envied + him, but could not follow suit owing to my disabled hand. + + Across the bowl a small hanging glacier entered the cwm but did not + reach the sea-ice below. We called this the Dewdrop Glacier. It + terminated in a rhomb-shaped face which was three hundred feet above + the bay. In the bay itself was a great thickness of ice, and Debenham + and myself had many arguments as to its origin. He believed it was an + ancient relic of the Dewdrop Glacier; but I inclined to the belief + that it represented old floe ice jammed up the narrow bowl by sea-ice + from without. Gran and I ran a line of levels across it with the + theodolite, which showed that it was still afloat although in places + it rose many feet above the bay level. + + We were running short of stores, so Gran and I marched back to our + headquarters. While I collected the stores he looked around for skua + eggs and soon found eight. The sea-kale did not show that verdant + growth which Gran had anticipated. However, he dug up one corner of + the “garden” and proudly showed me that one of the seeds was + sprouting! + + Gran put the eggs in a tin to carry them to the Punch Bowl. For + security he carefully packed them; but as the tin was black and the + sun was hot his packing, consisting of snow, soon vanished! However, + we got the eggs safely to the others. Unfortunately five were bad, but + the others assisted the menu at our midsummer feast. + + On the 22nd Gran and I explored the ridge and examined the Devil’s + Thumb. This knob is eight hundred feet above the bowl and is composed + of granite stiffened by porphyry dykes. Next day we spent some time + examining a huge enclosure of limestone caught up in the rocks forming + the Flat Iron. The crumpling and heat had turned the limestone into + marble, and along the junction with the granite many unusual minerals + had been formed. There were huge brown augites several inches long, + and large masses of natrolite, tremolite, and other similar minerals, + which filled Debenham’s petrological soul with joy. + + We returned to Cape Geology on the 23rd of December. In our absence + the tide crack and pressure ridges had been torn wider by the pressure + of the Mackay Tongue on the sea-ice. However, we got ashore without + much difficulty by zigzagging along the torn edges of the crack (see + p. 369). + + We found the floor of the hut inches deep in ice, which Forde cleared + out with the ice-axe. Meanwhile Gran was busy at the medical chest, + where the long names rather confused him. However, he seemed to + remember “aspirin” as a useful friend, and said it was suited to my + case. I swallowed some of the tabloids. Then he came across + “salicylate,” and apologetically remarked that the latter was what he + had been thinking of. So I tried them also. I was of the opinion + myself that my trouble was a combination of frostbite, blood-poisoning + and rheumatism, due primarily to an infected cut, and later to cold + and a diet of seal meat. However, on return to civilization I was + assured that I ought to have had my finger cut off, and that the bone + had been affected. Gran very willingly started operating on it with a + lancet; but I am thankful to say that I distrusted his powers as a + surgeon, with the result that now all is well. + + On Christmas Day we roamed about Cape Geology collecting specimens and + skua eggs. I was pleased to see signs of intellect in two of the + skuas, for my observations of seals, penguins, and skuas left me + convinced of their stupidity. However, in one nest the bird had + dragged some moss from a patch a foot distant, and in another case + some quill feathers were arranged around the nest. All the other birds + nested anyhow and anywhere. A gully, where water often trickled down + on a specially hot day, was a favoured spot! + + For lunch we cracked twenty-seven eggs, of which eight were edible. + Then we opened the Christmas bag and we found therein a small pudding + ready cooked and some caramels and ginger. Forde had rigged up the + flap again, and had raised the Irish flag on his own behalf. He cut + out a white harp from a linen specimen bag and sewed it on to a piece + of green burberry. The result was patriotic and striking. Gran’s + sledge flag was a beautiful piece of embroidery presented by Queen + Maud, and contained the Norwegian arms. Debenham’s and mine bore the + arms of our universities. + + I had carved a spoon out of a piece of bamboo from the broken end of + our depôt flag, and Debenham used this as a lever to photograph our + group. This primitive arrangement took a lot of fixing, but he + obtained quite a successful picture finally. + + A heavy sea fog rolled up that evening, and most of us suffered from + rheumatic pains. As a rule, we never caught cold while sledging, + though I remember a touch of influenza on one occasion. This freedom + from some of the minor ills of life speaks well for the purity of the + air in the Antarctic. + + Debenham’s birthday is the 26th of December, and Gran had remembered + this fact and carried a packet of cigarettes from Cape Evans as a + present to him. + +[Illustration: + + THE FIRST WESTERN PARTY IN A NATURAL ICE-TUNNEL AMID THE PINNACLES OF + THE KOETTLITZ GLACIER. + + Edgar Evans standing. +] + +[Illustration: + + THE SECOND WESTERN PARTY AT CAPE GEOLOGY, GRANITE HARBOUR, ON + CHRISTMAS DAY, 1911. + + Forde and Gran standing, Debenham and Taylor sitting. +] + + We walked along the flank of Mount England to explore the New Glacier + and to find a track to the Upper Mackay. Numerous couloirs or chimneys + grooved the steep face, and Gran and I climbed four hundred feet up + one of them. The snowline was about eight hundred feet up, and below + this was a tumbled pile of debris and granite blocks with a little + water running between. It was obvious that frost action was now + leading to a great deal of erosion; while at the head of the couloir + where the snow lay, less action was taking place. In short, true + glacier erosion (planation) was absent, and yet all round were + specimens of cwms in all stages of their evolution. Here a gully, + there a couloir somewhat deeper, on the Kar Cliffs a couloir cut into + a “half funnel” (p. 374); at the “Spillover” near by, a small bowl at + the back of the eroded notch, and along the mountain ridge (named + later after Gonville and Caius College), a series of giant cwms which, + in my opinion, originated in some small gully such as that I had just + climbed. At the foot of each of these deep couloirs was a delta or + debris fan. + + We climbed up the steep face of the New Glacier just where it joined + the talus of the mountain slope. Higher up was a deep lateral gully + which had been dammed by debris, and contained a lake about a quarter + of a mile long. This was bounded by steep granite cliffs on the south, + which showed no sign of grooving by the glacier, but was breaking off + in “shells” owing to frost action. + + We could see up the New Glacier, which was badly crevassed in many + places. I came round to the opinion of Debenham and Gran, that it + would be wiser to portage all our gear up the 1000 feet cliffs of the + Flat Iron, and so gain the quiet area behind the latter. We returned + to Cape Geology, and packed a fortnight’s provisions and gear for our + journey up the Mackay Glacier. + + I caught many of the insects I had discovered on arriving at Cape + Geology. Indeed, later Debenham found them under most of the stones, + clustering among the whitish roots or hyphæ of the moss. They would be + frozen stiff in a thin film of ice until one turned the stone into the + sun. Then the ice would melt, and they would move sluggishly about + until the sun left them, when their damp habitation froze again! I + cannot imagine a finer example of hibernation, for it looked as if + they pursued an active life only when a beneficent explorer let in a + little sunlight on them! Debenham detected a little red species which + was much more nimble than the millimetre-long blue ones, and I had + much trouble in catching six of them; but the others were more easily + managed. I smeared a piece of paper with seccotine, and then, taking a + small brush from the medical outfit, I brushed them by hundreds on to + the paper. “Seccotine sticks everything,” and the _aptera_ were no + exception. In a few moments they were securely embalmed like the flies + in amber, and so we safely carried a thousand of these unknown insects + back to civilization. + + At noon on the 27th we arrived at the foot of the Flat Iron again, and + started our big task. Like most premeditated ills, it was not so + difficult as anticipated. First we had some tea on a little gravelly + ledge about a hundred feet up, and then packed the gear for transport + up the mile of angular granite blocks which lay between us and the top + of the Flat Iron. Forde and Gran carried the sledge on their + shoulders, and, as may be imagined, had a most uncomfortable journey + with this “old man of the ice” to handicap their scramble. Debenham + and I carried food and gear, and in about a dozen journeys everything + was perched high up on the Flat Iron’s summit. Open water was visible + from five hundred feet, so that it was still about twenty-five miles + away. Pennell had not much chance of reaching the rendezvous unless + the ice went out at a mile a day. + + We left our snug gravel island next day, and knotted ourselves well to + the sledge. We were now to journey for some days over the Mackay + Glacier, and though we naturally chose the smoothest and least + disturbed ice for our route, yet we had to pass near areas full of + huge crevasses. I had less anxiety than ever to fall into one, for I + could not use my right hand at all yet. However, the other three were + almost too prompt to pull me out, as I realized a week or two later. + + We zigzagged down on the snow plateau. This is about ten miles wide, + and seven miles from east to west. It is bounded by the New Glacier + crevasses on the south, and by rock islands which we called Redcliff + and Mount Suess on the west, by the chaos of the Mackay Skauk on the + north, and by the Flat Iron and Cuff Cape Glaciers to the east, where + there is a 1000 feet drop into Granite Harbour. + + “The surface was covered with deep snow; we don’t know what is + beneath. There are many indications of east-west depressions in the + snow into which we fell occasionally, but I am not sure if they were + crevasses. The surface often fell in with a widespread sigh, which was + eerie but harmless. + + “To the south is a wonderful series of peaks about five thousand feet + high, forming a wall of giant cwms. Probably they form the divide from + the next great valley (of the Debenham Glacier). Quite a number of + these peaks show a recurved spine on the summit, which is probably due + to the weathering of dolerite crags. To the north-west is a mountain + approaching seven thousand feet, which is capped by dolerite lava.” + (We called it Black-cap at first, but it is now officially known as + Mount Tryggve Gran, after our ever-cheerful comrade.) “In the face of + this mountain are faulted white bands which are probably Beacon + Sandstone.” + + That evening we camped on Redcliff _Nunakol_. This latter term I + invented with Gran’s assistance to describe a rock island resembling a + _nunatak_, but rounded by previous glacial erosion. The nunatak has + properly never been below the ice; hence its name, from the Icelandic + _nuna_, lonely, and _tak_, a jagged peak. Nunakol is from _nuna_, + lonely, and _kol_, a rounded ridge. + +[Illustration: + + Mount Suess Nunatak, looking west from Redcliff, December 29, 1912. +] + + We placed the tent on a patch of gravel near to a little waterfall. I + followed up this stream, and found that it rose in some swampy ground + where a little moss was growing. Next morning we all explored the + Nunakol, which was 1080 feet above the glacier. The top was more or + less flat, and as usual consisted of granite covered with much debris. + I managed to do some sketching, and was especially interested in the + numerous pot-holes cut out in granite by the wind. They were about a + foot in diameter and eight inches deep, and each contained some + pebbles by which they had been scoured out. + + To assist our survey we named many of the peaks and glaciers around + us. The sharp peak to the north (which I usually made the datum for + the theodolite angles) we called the “Referring Facet.” A large + tributary glacier to the east of this was named the Cleveland Glacier + by Debenham. He explained that it was after a large family, and so + required a correspondingly large natural feature! Red Ridge was to the + south, and formed of red granite. Killer Ridge had the shape of an + _orca_, Sperm Bluff was a black headland like the blunt head of the + sperm whale. Pegtop and Dome nunataks are self-explanatory. We were + quite close to Mount Suess, and obtained a fine view of this nunatak. + Its three dolerite peaks, the armchair hollow, and the bulwark on the + north-east, supported by huge granite cliffs, made it a very striking + object. + + On the 30th the day was overcast, and it snowed most of the time. We + could not leave the tent, and lay snug in our bags and mended gear. I + did some useful darning, using seaming twine to repair my socks. They + were lasting splendidly. “I mended them with my left hand; so far I am + still wearing the same socks for eight weeks. If I could darn easily, + I’d keep to them for our whole fourteen weeks....” Such was the + practical value of my patent canvas heel-tips! + + Debenham and I made a set of chess pieces from cardboard, and we + played on his survey plane-table. It took a week or two to get used to + the men, but we had many games later while we were marooned on Cape + Roberts. + + On the last day of the year we pulled westward to Gondola Ridge. “All + was snow-covered, and we sank four inches into it, but the sledge + pulled pretty well. There was no sun, but I got in a cold sweat with + the work. Now and again our feet would sink a foot or two. There must + be plenty of crevasses round this corner of the nunakol, but we + trusted the fates and plugged on. The snow was so deep that we did not + break through the bridges anywhere. The sun came out to cheer us, and + soon we heard the old creaking due to ‘bottle-glass’ ice and + ‘glass-house’ ice....” I knew this meant an ancient undisturbed + glacier from our experience up the Koettlitz Glacier, and felt that we + were safely past the crevasses. + + About noon we had approached close to Gondola Ridge, which extends + northward from Mount Suess. Here we came to a sudden ice cliff, but + the slope was not too steep for us to toboggan down it on to a lake + surface fringing the moraines. I expect thaw waters had cut out the + cliff. Here were fine debris cones just like those of Cape Evans, but + larger, and formed not only of dolerite, but of granite and Beacon + Sandstone. + +[Illustration: Sketch Map of Mt. Suess Nunatak and Gondola Nunakol +5·1·12] + + “We pushed on for a whitish silt-bank, and then left the sledge near + it among the black and white rocks composing the moraine. The + silt-bank was a huge heap like a railway embankment. It was twenty + feet high, and composed of Beacon Sandstone debris. A little lake lay + at the foot, and its flat top made a splendid camp site. ‘Here, on + soil formed of real sand, like that near Sydney, we pitched our + tent:’—probably the first time such a thing had been done in Victoria + Land. We found a bounteous water supply by cutting through the ice of + the little lake, for alongside a big black boulder the radiation of + the sun’s heat had melted the ice. This was a great saving, for none + of our precious oil was now wasted in melting the ice.” + + There was an extraordinary mixture of dolerite and sandstone all over + the Gondola Ridge. The sandstone was characterized by blebs, which in + Germany would be called “Knoten.” We called it briefly “smallpoxy,” + and it did not look hopeful for fossils. However, there was some shale + near the tent, which looked more hopeful. We did not find much beyond + worm-casts and ripple-marks at first. + + The discovery of fossils was of especial importance to Australia, + because the central Antarctic area had served as a distributing base + for Australian animals and plants. The marsupials are represented by a + few forms in South America and New Guinea, and there seems little + doubt that land extended more or less continuously between these + limits. Earlier still South Africa was joined to this Antarctic world, + for land-worms allied to those in the other southern continents are + now known from Cape Colony. + + When Gran and I returned from our first survey of the ridge we found + that Debenham had already been successful in the shales. He had found + some vesicular horny plates. I turned to, and soon obtained two large + pieces like the red tiles capping a roof-ridge. They were nearly two + inches long, and had a well-marked keel. There were also smaller + complete plates. On our return to Europe these were identified as the + armour-plate of primitive fish, and probably of Devonian age. So that + our find on Gondola Ridge added a new epoch to Antarctic fossils, for + Cambrian limestones were known, and Permian coal-measures were + indicated by Shackleton’s specimens. These fish plates identified + another set of sediments midway between them. + + The moraines near our camp, though by no means so abundant as on a + smaller European glacier, were the most important which I saw actually + on a glacier in the Antarctic. To the north-east two medial moraines + stretched out from the ridge and enclosed an area which we called the + Harbour (see p. 391). In a warm summer this is probably a lake. One + striking “piebald” debris cone was half white and half black. It was + twenty-five feet high, and the eastern portion had resulted from the + weathering of a huge “erratic” of sandstone, while a similar mass of + dolerite had broken up to form the western half of the heap. + + Even so far up and away from the sea we found some lichens. These + diminutive plants were busily etching the surface of the granite just + as in more clement climes. Beautiful rounded and polished platforms + were quite abundant on the ridge. Occasionally a hard band of porphyry + would project and show almost a glaze where the coarser granite had + been weathered and dulled. + +[Illustration: Erratic perched on six small stones, Gondola Ridge] + + We could now see uninterruptedly to the great ice plateau. Only one + nunatak lay between us and the outlet ice-falls near Mount Gran. We + saw many examples of perched blocks, some being deposited on top of + polished faces of granite. One huge block, which I sketched, had been + lowered gently by the ice on to four “legs,” at one corner composed of + two small stones. Between Mount Suess and Gondola Ridge was a definite + “col” or low pass containing small tarns and covered with debris. We + returned to the camp by this route, and had no difficulty in + clambering down its eastern outlet. + + The 2nd of January was a cold gloomy morning. The clouds settled down + and swathed everything in a clammy mantle. I dared not move far from + the tent, and so we broke up shales and collected more of what Evans + called “sarpent critters.” I found a few brilliant blue plates with a + lustre like that on the elytræ of beetles! I walked over the north end + of the ridge where the solid granite was broken into large “bricks” + separated by several inches. These blocks seemed to have moved to the + east, and this movement may be due to glacier “plucking”; but I think + it is merely the result of frost cleavage followed later by rock + “creep.” At any rate it was very common on the “floors” left by the + recession of the ice-sheet. + + Debenham in his prowl for specimens had discovered a coal-mine! In + this case it was not a large one, and consisted of a fine lump of + brown coal about four inches across. + + On the 3rd Gran and I determined to circumnavigate Mount Suess. This + most striking mountain lay about one mile south of us. It towered 3000 + feet above Gondola ridge and was a most impressive sight. The upper + layer consisted of black dolerite, largely showing columnar structure. + The main mass was formed of reddish granite. It stood out foursquare + like some gigantic castle keep (see Fig., p. 383). The centre was + hollowed out and three cusps or peaks rose at the north, west, and + south angles respectively. In fact, it resembled more than anything an + ancient molar tooth, though this parallel libels its rugged grandeur. + + As we marched round its east face we came on more and more dolerite in + the moraine. This had evidently been swept round the south of the + mount, and as this moraine contained the sandstone fossils it was very + important to see where the moraine originated. Between the mount and + the glacier to the south was a low col of granite from which talus + debris reached upwards almost to the dolerite cap. The mount itself + looked yellow, but I found this was due to a yellow tint in the + granite. + + The sky was clouding, and we had still a long way to go. So we hurried + round to the west side of the mount, and here I saw what I had + expected, that between the granite base and the dolerite capping there + was a long “lenticle” of yellow sediments. It was, however, quite + inaccessible from below, and after making a sketch we marched on the + north. On this side there was very little talus. We clambered along + over granite terraces some 300 feet above the glacier. We crossed the + top of the north col without difficulty and proceeded over Gondola + Ridge to the tent. Later, Debenham and Forde appeared. They had found + an easy route to the central hollow of the mount, which we called “The + Deck,” but had not had time to ascend one of the peaks. + + On the 4th the morning was clear, and I felt that we could not do + better than get the theodolite on the top of Mount Suess, and so + connect up many of the distant peaks with our survey. + +[Illustration: Sketch-diagram of the SW Face of Mt Suess showing the +fossil-bearing Beacon Sandstones 3–1–12] + + Debenham decided to stay below and continue his plane-table survey. + Gran took his camera, and Forde and I carried the theodolite, etc. We + climbed up the gap at the north corner, and then scrambled along a + slope full of snow-covered boulders which lay between the main peaks + and the 1800 feet Rampart. This latter feature seemed as if pierced + for guns also! Possibly the gap and the “ports” were due to the + weathering away of volcanic dykes in the granite. They did not look as + if ice had cut them out. Where the gap emerged on the “Deck” were two + little tarns at about 1200 feet above the tent. + + Gran proceeded to climb the central-west cusp of the mount, thinking + it the highest. Forde and I attacked the south-west peak. The slope + was very steep and covered at first with grey granite, black dolerite, + and yellow sandstone blocks. At 2000 feet only the dolerite blocks + were seen, so that I feel sure that the sandstone crops out _inside_ + the hollow of the mount (between the granite and dolerite) as well as + on its western face. + + At 1.40 I reached the top and found that it was 3000 feet above the + tent. I set up the theodolite and obtained a fine series of angles. + Sighting on Gran’s peak, which he had just surmounted, I found it was + two degrees lower, which I estimated at about a hundred feet, whereat + he was somewhat crestfallen. However, he walked across after obtaining + a splendid set of photos of the landscape spread out before us. The + actual summit was fairly flat for a few yards, with a thousand feet + precipice on the south and west. Far out to sea we could see miles of + open water, especially to the south, with floes drifting in it, but it + did not seem much nearer than a month ago. + + To the south a deep fiord-like valley seemed to pierce right through + the Gonville Range. It was of course filled with ice, and was, I + think, what the Americans call a transection glacier. Probably it + connected the Mackay Glacier with the Debenham Glacier. The cliffs at + its west portal were cut into giant “forts,” and bands of beacon + sandstone showed clearly enough above the granite. + + To the south lay the Sperm nunakol. It was only a mile away, and we + seemed to be right over it. It showed a flat surface covered with + debris much like the Flat Iron. The Peg Top nunakol seemed to have + lost its knob-like appearance. It was somewhat =Ꭲ=-shaped, the front + bar rising like a crocodile’s head from the covering of ice. To the + south of this rock island there seemed an easy route up to the + Plateau—good enough for ponies, if the first step up to the “Flat + Iron” could be negotiated. + + A very high mountain, possibly 10,000 feet, showed to the west. We + could not estimate its distance properly, for all our survey angles to + it were so acute. + + After spending two and a half hours on the summit we hurried back to + the camp, and found that Debenham had passed a useful if uneventful + day. + +[Illustration: + + Gondola Ridge from the top of Mount Suess, looking north-east, January + 4, 1912, showing the “deck,” ramparts, and medial moraines. +] + + On the 6th of January we took down the tent and transported our gear + across the rugged moraines to the sledge. While I was packing the fish + scales in cotton-wool, the other three had found more coal near the + sledge, and they soon collected five specimen bags full. It was + undoubtedly derived from Beacon Sandstone beds close to our camp, and + possibly from the outcrop we had seen on Mount Suess. + + We marched straight back to the Flat Iron, camping for lunch about + halfway. It was interesting to note the way the snow lay in various + regions. Small cwm valleys at low levels were filled with snow and + ice, while large plains at higher elevations to the west were seen to + be almost bare. Perhaps the snowfall varies with height, while the + ablation (evaporation) may depend largely on the wind direction. + + Next day we devoted to a survey of the Flat Iron. I went to the + northern face to see if we could drag or lower the sledge down the + glacier without unloading it. I had a light camera and was able to + take a few interesting photographs. The first looking over Cuff Cape + to the north illustrated the following physiographic features: the ice + face, crevasses, skauk, young calf-bergs, moraines, retreating + glacier, granite pavements, shear cracks in bay ice, the ice tongue, + facets on the cliffs, cwms, overflows, hog-bag ridges, the junction of + the granite and dolerite, and the Kar Plateau—all on one quarter-plate + negative! + + To the south was the small tarn I have mentioned earlier. The furrowed + face of Mount England was reflected in its still water, and a solitary + skua gull was preening his feathers on a boulder in the lake. I + managed to get a successful photo here also. + + Meanwhile a sea fog was rolling in from the east. Gradually it blotted + out all the features below us. I had just time to hurry back to the + tent before everything around us vanished. Debenham turned up a minute + or two later, but I was getting anxious when Forde and Gran returned. + It is impossible to find one’s way in these fogs, and exposure to + Antarctic weather is a thing to be dreaded even in summer. + + Next morning we started transporting our gear down to the bay ice. We + followed our former route, which certainly seemed to have been the + best. We had now to carry down many specimens, for the Flat Iron was a + wonderful collecting ground. The main mass is grey granite, but it + includes many varieties of schist and bands of altered limestone; + gabbros, amphibolites, quartz porphyries, marble, mica-schists, + felsites and rhyolites were mostly _in situ_, while erratics of basalt + and sandstone were common. + +[Illustration: + + GRAN’S MIDSUMMER BATH, DEC. 21, 1911. + + A small tarn of the Devil’s Ridge overlooking the Punchbowl (300 feet + below). Across the latter appears the Dewdrop Glacier. The tarn is + held back by a snowdrift glacieret. + + [_See p. 378._ +] + +[Illustration: + + _Photo by Gran._] + + THE COULOIRS OF MOUNT ENGLAND (WHICH DEVELOP INTO CWMS LATER). + + The Flat Iron hides the base of the mountains. In the foreground the + ice-foot of Cuff Cape. +] + + The rough shaking to which our gear was subjected resulted in our + losing the top of the theodolite tripod, the pump-knob on the Primus, + and the sight-ruler! Debenham found the latter, but we had to use + makeshifts for the other lost articles. + + At 7 p.m. we were back at Cape Geology. Each time we returned we found + the pressure ridges and tide crack off the cape had altered in shape + and made our approach more difficult. The skua gulls had found our + blubber store and were gobbling it up as rapidly as they were able. + Our hut floor was inches thick in ice, but we gave up trying to make + the hut comfortable, and the cook shivered out there at the stove, and + then brought the food down to the tent, where we ate it in comfort. + + At this time we were devoutedly hoping for wind, so that some of the + sea-ice should blow away and permit the ship to reach us. Captain + Pennell was due any day now, but the bay ice looked as solid as when + we had entered in November. + +[Illustration: Sea-kale at 77°s. 8–1–12] + + We inspected the “vegetable garden” and found that twelve dicotyledons + had sprouted! I imagine these are the first grown in the open air + within the Antarctic circle! They seemed thirsty, so I gave them some + water. But, alas! the weather rapidly grew colder. Every day a few + were blighted, and, finally, I carefully gathered the remnants and + placed them in my pocket-book as a record of Gran’s well-meant + experiment. + + I was much disappointed with the moss. It lay in peaty clods between + the boulders, usually in lumps about the size of a large bath bun, and + had formed a considerable amount of humus. But it remained almost + black and dead all this summer. Usually January 15th is the warmest + day, but this season December was much warmer than January, and I + think the backward condition of the moss showed that it was an + exceptionally severe summer. + + I was now cook again, and will copy some of my cooking notes. “At 4.30 + I dug up the seal meat cache, and found a whole liver buried deep + under a layer of ice. It all seemed fresh, and Forde helped me to cut + it up on a board outside the hut. Then I got the stove lighted by + blubbery paper pretty easily, and the cooker full of water. I heated + this for cocoa till it began to sing, and then put on the frying-tray. + This latter was the base of our cooker, but served excellently as a + pan; except that it was so large that one part of the meat would + freeze while the rest was frying! I put in some fat, and tipped in + four mugs of cut up seal and liver. It took about three-quarters of an + hour to cook, being stirred continuously. I fear me I used my dagger + as poker, cutter of blubber, as scraper of soot, stirrer and taster, + all indiscriminately! However, with onion powder and salt it doesn’t + taste badly, though it makes my teeth ache chewing it. The cooker of + warmed water boiled in no time, though it had been cooling for + three-quarters of an hour, and we had hot cocoa to time. I had only + one biscuit, so that it was a cheap indigenous meal.” + + The weather had been rather disagreeable during the last month, about + four days fine alternating with five days overcast. This is not usual + in midsummer, but we chiefly required strong winds to blow away the + sea-ice, so that Pennell could reach us. With a sailor’s superstition + Gran hung up his most dilapidated headgear “for a favouring wind.” He + said it always took effect in twenty-four hours. However, as was often + the case with our sanguine prophet, nothing came of his forecast, and + his stock was flat again. + + On the 11th Debenham swore that he saw the _Terra Nova_. Gran + confirmed this, and said the sails were set. I got hold of the + binoculars, and alas! I saw _three Terra Novas_. They were miraged + bergs, I fear. I thought it would be a good plan to have a signal on + top of Discovery Bluff, and so Gran and I carried paper, blubber, and + dried moss, to the summit, and left them there in readiness for a + flare, if the ship approached. I carried up the theodolite, but did + not take many angles, for it began to snow. When I returned, I found + that Forde had kindly done my cooking—or rather greatly improved on + it. He made some excellent chupatties from “thickers” and raisins, of + which we had a small surplus. + + That evening we had a great argument about the possibility of a German + invasion, Gran _versus_ Debenham, in which Forde and I took sides to + keep things lively. “We agreed that Germany could not conquer a + colony, even if it _were_ handed over to them; that the Kaiser’s + aspirations ought to be humbled, and that the British officers were + not so highly educated as the German.” Gran had many tales of the vast + amount of linguistic and mathematical knowledge which they amassed. + + _Friday the 12th._—No sign of the ship! This is the day I backed for + our meeting. However, my cookery is over for a time. + + Gran and I walked over to the Tongue to measure the movement of the + ice. On the 26th of December I had sighted on to the stake with the + theodolite, and obtained a movement of thirty feet in twelve days. + “She is fairly galloping to sea.” On this occasion we both wore spiked + boots, and so had little difficulty on the glacier, though the recent + snow had hidden all but the largest crevasses. On arrival at the + stake—which had not suffered from the blizzards—Gran lay on the snow + with the field glasses, and observed Debenham, who was posted with the + theodolite at the camp station. Meanwhile I moved east or west, and + Debenham signalled to Gran until I stood on the transit with the crack + in the Kar Cliffs. Now I made a direct measurement from this line to + the stake, and found a movement to the east of eighty-two feet. + Therefore the glacier has a velocity of almost a yard a day. The + sketch (Fig., p. 374) shows exactly how this determination—which I + believe to be the most accurate in Victoria Land—was made. + + Gran suggested trying another route back, so we moved into one of the + huge gullies (which nearly dissect the Tongue every half-mile) and we + found it remarkably easy. There were three little lakelets between + thirty feet walls, showing there was no drainage into crevasses here, + and we reached the bay ice with great ease. + + I discussed pushing off for Cape Roberts instead of waiting close to + the Bluff. There was no possibility of the ship coming in to us, and + we could meet them as easily from the entrance. On the other hand, + there seemed no way out of the _cul-de-sac_ at Cape Geology if the + ship did not arrive, and the sea-ice broke away. So, after talking it + over, I decided to leave our headquarters on the 14th. + + On the 13th Debenham and Gran went to the Bluff, and Gran climbed to + the top to scan the ice in Ross Sea. Debenham visited the flag, and + made a chart of the great shear cracks in the bay ice, due to the + Mackay Ice Tongue. + + Forde and I packed everything which we should need for sledging at + Evans Coves on the good sledge. We packed the specimens, and some + articles not now necessary on the “roof-tree” sledge. This + necessitated dismantling Granite Hut, and very woe-begone it looked, + with the sealskins flapping dismally on its walls. They had turned + into fine _black_ fur now, but were not beautiful enough to warrant + transport on our heavily laden sledge. The skuas enjoyed our removal. + They pounced eagerly on our specimen bags, and flew off some distance + with several, in the hopes of finding a dainty morsel. + + I was much amazed at the unusual sight of two skua gulls amicably + tearing a piece of blubber up between them, and bolting half each. I + never saw another instance of so much sociability. + + “On Sunday, January 14, I woke the others at 6 a.m., having had to + keep awake an hour or so to do it. We had food quickly, packed up, and + were ready to start about twenty to eight. I should think our sledge + had 900 lbs. on it, which is about a record down here. We got over our + ‘Pressure Pier’ to the bay ice without much difficulty, though it is + very narrow now. Later parties will have to find a new route. + + “We found the sledge pretty hard to pull, and it took us over an hour + to do the first mile. When you are going slowly it is always twice as + hard, and lasts twice as long! This looked bad with nine miles to do. + We got over the first tide crack, near the signal flag, by means of an + island. Then we halted for a rest, and marched along the front of the + Bluff towards the Piedmont Ice Tongue. The east was very gloomy now, + and it started to snow. When you are pulling half a ton, and know that + the ice you are on was breaking up in January, 1903, this is not + cheerful. However, I turned in nearer the land, so as to reach + Avalanche Bay, where it was possible to ascend the cliffs. The snow + got no worse, and the surface improved slightly. We could see two + seals far ahead on the next big crack, and we found thirty feet of + wet, mushy snow at the first spot.” + + A little searching showed us a possible track. Debenham and I, tied + together, crossed first, and then the others, and then we judged the + sledge might do it. I expect it would have sunk like a stone if the + ice had given way; but we had to get over here, or nowhere. + + The snow came down thickly now, and we plugged ahead by compass for + the small Piedmont Tongue, where we had been held up two days on our + arrival. Suddenly we seemed to run into a snow slope, and by a mighty + expenditure of energy we got the sledge up on to the tongue, and were + safely on fixed ice for the time. + + We soon got the tent pitched, for there was not much wind, and had + some tea. I will quote my diary. + + “We were all in a cold sweat, for the work is very hard, and yet you + don’t keep warm. However, we got into our bags, and were soon warm, if + damp. The blizzard was but temporary, and about 4 p.m. it blew over to + the west. I crossed the Tongue to see the descent on the other side. + It was about five feet down a steep snow slope. Beyond was a narrow + shear crack with two seals; but the big crack at the end of the tongue + went further east. We pulled over the glacier and down the slope past + the seals without difficulty. Then on a little further, and saw a + crack to our right. + + “It seemed only about a foot wide, and I was testing this weak spot + with the ski-stick, when the foot of soft snow on which I was standing + collapsed, and I went into the water. Luckily I grabbed Deb’s hand, + and Forde and Gran got my harness. I was jerked out like a cork from a + bottle, and was never so near flying. None saw the others pull, and + they thought I felt very light. We plugged on to the east, and came to + the main wavy crack, an ugly thing, thirty feet across, of mushy + water. Luckily this also narrowed at the bend, and after some + searching we pulled over him also.” + + I was getting thoroughly tired here. However, we could see our + destination at last, and so pushed on. A keen wind came up from the + south-west, and swept over the one hundred feet glacier wall to the + south, driving snow across our course. We crossed a little crack which + Debenham thought was new since the snowfall. To our left were many + birds, about a mile away, and black patches of ominous appearance were + showing. Debenham climbed on the sledge, and was sure it was open + water, and I agreed; but we couldn’t do anything, and pushed on. “I + got some relief for my tired legs by marching a longer stride, and we + plugged on, hoping it would hold firm another hour. However, at long + length we began to see details in the never-ending glacier wall on our + left—icicles, crevasses, and snowdrifts,—and at last could make out a + feasible slope up on to the Cape, and felt safe. I had cramp from the + pulling, and couldn’t move for a time.” Then it was a distinct + anticlimax, when we got to the top of the Cape, to see that we had + been misled by some queer shadows, that there was firm ice for at + least seven miles, and no sign of water anywhere! However, our + experience at New Harbour made both Debenham and myself realize the + risk we were running if the break up of the ice, now long overdue, had + eventuated. + + “Monday, the 15th January, 1912; the day on which we were to be + relieved. ’Nary a relief, nor any sign of it, and skuas squawking + round us! + + “We surveyed our cape expecting to find pools of water in plenty, but + there is none anywhere. Everything is covered with snow except the big + boulders and two or three patches of gravel, of which we have annexed + the largest. When we arrived each gravel patch was inhabited by a pair + of skua gulls, which we may call White, Black, and Gray respectively.” + + We dispossessed the Blacks, and I put young “Blackie” in a new + nest—just as well made as his own—a little distance away. Meanwhile + Debenham set up the blubber stove on a rock ledge near by, to get to + which he crossed the Grays’ nest rather frequently. + + The chronicle of these three families have been done into rhyme by the + “Sledge Poet,” and will be found to be pathetic in the extreme. + + A TRUE ANTARCTIC TRAGEDY + + On the Cape by Granite Harbour, where the Glacier shrinks away, + Happy dwelt three pairs of Skuas, fighting gaily night and day. + Skua-_White_ possessed but one egg. Young Skua-_Black_ to walk begins; + Skua-_Gray_ was just expecting the arrival of some Twins! + + To that Cape by Granite Harbour stagger in at bright midnight, + Blizzard-blown and Ice-tormented, Four exhausted men of might. + Boulders carpeted their refuge, each within a snowfield set, + Only three inviting tent-sites crowned the Cape ... and they were LET. + + Operates the law primeval, “Shove the weaker to the floe.” + Fix the tent there in the middle, Skua Black has got to go. + With a shriek of rage and anguish fled the parents of S. B. + Little cared the callous leader; “Hurry up, and boil the tea.” + + By the nest of Skuas grayish, quick was placed the Blubber Stove, + And the incense thence proceeding made the skuas murmur “Jove!” + They _had_ to seek another refuge. Bitter feelings filled their cup. + It tore their hearts to leave their offspring, so they sighed—and ate + them up. + + Very loudly yelled young Blackie, crawling round the tent all night, + So that kind and humane leader took him off to Skua White. + + “Lo! a miracle hath happened,” said returning Skua White; + “Here’s our nest just _full_ of chicken, full of howling appetite.” + Said Skua White, “It would be best, for fear this should become a + habit, + To feed _ourselves_ upon our _egg_.” (Besides, you may be sure _he’d_ + grab it.) + + So little Blackie reigned supreme + Until one day when he was fed + (By that kind and humane leader + Foster-father, foster-feeder) + On rich and tasty lumps of blubber, + His little tummy stretched like rubber, + Stretched too much—— + and now _HE’s_ dead! + + The skuas are the most quarrelsome birds I know. They would fight for + hours over the carcase of a freshly-killed seal until they realized + there was enough food for ten times as many skuas—and by this time the + flesh would be frozen so hard they could make no impression on it. The + penguins have their own peculiar propensities, while the seals used to + amaze us by their callousness. The day after we reached Cape Roberts + we killed a large seal and cut it up, while another twenty yards away + watched us quite casually, and did not budge for hours. + + There was nothing much to do on the Cape. It was triangular in shape, + rising about fifty feet above the sea-ice. The broad base of the + triangle was covered with snow, which gradually merged into the + Piedmont Glacier. There was no ice wall here, so that the glacier was + presumably stagnant at this corner. The great granite tors of the Cape + were all flattened, showing that they had been planed off by a former + extension of the ice-sheet. Debenham spent some time making a detailed + plane-table survey. I fixed several theodolite stations, but as the + days went by our life settled into a monotonous round. + + I cut the meals down to two a day. We had plenty of seal meat and + biscuit, but all the other stores were approaching their last week. + + We used to have a meal about 7 p.m. every other day, a half ration of + pemmican; for although seal meat is not so black as it’s painted (and + it’s very black indeed), yet we had eaten little else for a month, and + were all heartily sick of it. Then we turned in, and used to yarn or + read till about 3 a.m., when we managed to get to sleep. We turned out + at noon, and had a biscuit and seal lunch. During the afternoon we + used to walk over the cape and inspect the cracks in the sea-ice. One + man was kept fairly busy cutting up seal meat, and the cook coaxed the + stove to cook the fry. + + Debenham was our only smoker, and certainly found tobacco a great + solace. I had brought socks instead of tobacco, and had looked forward + to jeering at him when his tobacco and socks gave out. Unfortunately + our socks lasted much better this trip, as our boots were stronger, + and I never used my spare socks! + + Gran started a drama—a great nature play full of storms and wrecks, + with a strong substratum of melodrama. It was called “Tangholman + Lighthouse,” and we used to urge him to fill it full of incident, and + cut out the “nature” part of it. I read “Martin Chuzzlewit” for the + ninth time and found it, as always, very interesting; while Forde + tackled “Incomparable Bellairs”—a book which charmed Gran—but luckily + Forde made it last a very long time. + + We played chess with our cardboard pieces. I think we were fairly + even, though Debenham tried risky openings to my advantage. The place + of Evans as Society Entertainer was taken by Gran. His varied + adventures in Arctic seas, among the Andes, in Turkey, Venezuela, and + others of the less-known regions of the earth interested us much. He + was, I remember, very anxious to experience the delights of station + life as pourtrayed by Debenham. + + The 20th of January was Gran’s birthday. I was sorry I couldn’t return + his kindly present (of Savoy sauce, etc.), but I told him I would give + him a ship during the day. The Sledge Poet contributed the following + Birthday Ode, dealing with Gran’s Nietzschian principles; which is + here published with Gran’s gracious permission. + + ODE TO TRYGGVE + + ON HIS 23RD BIRTHDAY, CAPE ROBERTS. + + (Chanted at ye Full Pemmican Feast.) + + O Trygge Gran, O Trygge Gran, + I would thou wert a moral man, + And yet since we + (The other three) + Are just as moral as can be, + A “soupçon de diablerie” + Improves our little company. + + O Tryggve Gran, a holy calm + Is most essential in a psalm. + But prose should be a thought less calmer + When elevated into drama. + And yet though we + (The other three) + Are critical to a degree, + We wish success some future day + To the first Polar “Nature Play.” + + O Tryggve Gran, thou art a man + Who hath compressed within a span + Of three and twenty years, such deeds + That hearing which, each man’s heart bleeds + Among us three. + And yet though _we_ + Are kind to every girl we see, + I have no doubt each lovely creature + Would rather help _you_ follow Nietzsche! + + Oh, Tryggve Gran, you should be dead + A-many years ago—instead + Of which, he saves you oft, + That “Little Cherub up Aloft.” + And therefore we + (The other three) + In this new principle agree, + (As with your luck no man can quarrel) + ’Twill serve us best to be _un-moral_!!! + + I was just writing the last line of the poem when Gran yelled out + “Ship ho!” We had seen ships many times already, but he was certain of + this, so we turned out, and there, under the fang of Erebus, we could + see some topmasts. Later we could make out three masts and black + smoke, so we knew it was the good old _Terra Nova_, and not the + _Fram_, which burned smokeless oil fuel. + + We set about elevating our flags further up the glacier. We took them + up a long way, nearly to the top, as we thought. On our return we saw + they were only one quarter of the way up, a good example of the + trickiness of snow slopes in this respect. I arranged night watches to + observe any signals or sledge parties, and we turned in hoping to be + aboard in twenty-four hours. + + [Nay, gentle reader, you are not at the end of my narrative; it was + just twenty-four days before we were relieved.] + + Next day she was in much the same position, about twenty miles away + across the screw-pack and broken floes. About two miles away a great + crack stretched from north and south. It was fully eight miles long, + and seemed to presage the breaking up of the sea-ice. + + On the 22nd we could not see the ship. A strong south wind sprang up, + and the gradually clouding sky seemed to portend a blizzard. “The + stronger the better,” I write, “if it will only drive out this blessed + floe.” We took a few photographs. There were two Emperor penguins + moulting on each side of our Cape, but Debenham reported that they + were too frightful to photo! Forde and I had a day with my + stereo-camera, taking various interesting details around the + Cape—planed granite blocks, pressure ice in the bay, and then the + Emperors, awful as they were, several seal and berg pictures, etc.; + but sad to relate all these negatives were smashed when the sledge + fell over the glacier cliff. However, I made sketches of the most + interesting features; for instance, one corner of a berg showed very + well how flexible are large masses of ice. + + I did not entertain the idea of trying to reach Pennell across the + screw-pack. We should get into more precarious regions each mile, and + we could not communicate with the ship to ensure her awaiting us. + Pennell could send a party with safety at either end if he desired. I + was, however, very glad later to find that Pennell also considered the + pack absolutely impossible for sledging from the ship. + + We saw her during the next few days, and then she never showed up + again. + + On the 27th a blizzard started, which we hoped would move out the ice. + It tore our sledge flags badly, so that we brought them down from our + distress signal 350 feet up the glacier, leaving the big depôt flag + there. + + It was very trying work with the blubber stove, for there was no + shelter on the Cape. When there was any wind the flames would blow out + of the door and gave no heat at all. The water did not get tepid in + half an hour, whereas on a calm day it would boil in twenty minutes. I + spent an hour trying to cook the fry, and barely succeeded in melting + the fat. We decided that the stove could not be used in high winds, + even though it was in a sort of ice cave and the cook sat in the door + to keep the wind out! + +[Illustration: Flexure in 30 pr. Berg, Cape Roberts 20·1·12] + + Our rations had been cut down by half for a fortnight. We now had + three or four biscuits a day; butter, every other day; chocolate, one + stick; pemmican, one-eighth; sugar and tea, two-thirds a day. However, + we had plenty of seal meat, and as we were not working we required + much less food. + + So passed several days. The tide crack was groaning all round the + Cape, large pieces of floes floating loose in it, and jostling each + other as the swell came in from the open water twenty miles away. Gran + spent all one afternoon making chupatties. The lid of the camera box + was his pudding-board. He used the wheatmeal thickers for dough, and + commandeered our allowance of raisins. The cakes were cut out with the + rim of a cup, and then fried in a mixture of butter, fat, blubber, and + soot. Anyhow, the result was highly successful, though the inside was + somewhat wet, and the whole, I should now consider, distinctly heavy. + + Each day we started the last bag of something precious. First the + pemmican, then the chocolate, then the butter. Only one seal had been + visible for some days, and I decreed his doom. He lay on a large piece + of ice which was rising and falling with the swell. We reached this + across an ice island, surging about in a large pool. In spite of all + this movement no more of the ice moved north, as far as we could + judge. + + On the evening of the 1st of February I held a council. Captain + Scott’s instructions read, “I am of the opinion that the retreat + should not be commenced until the bays have refrozen, probably towards + the end of March. An attempt to retreat overland might involve you in + difficulties, whereas you could build a stone hut, provision it with + seal meat, and remain in safety in any convenient station on the + coast.” + + However, he gave me permission to begin the retreat if we were not + relieved in January, and I began to prepare for this event. + + Cracks seemed to be spreading in the sea-ice even while one was + watching it. The surging ice in the tide crack, now twenty feet wide, + rose several feet. Now and again a huge shock-groan, like a big rock + bumping on another, announced a new crack, while a constant roar, like + that of a distant lion, announced the periods of maximum of the swell + rolling in from twenty miles away. + + On the 3rd of February Debenham, Gran, and I climbed the glacier slope + behind our camp to prospect for a path. We roped up and proceeded + about three miles southward, keeping well behind the crevasses. These + are numerous on the steep seaward slope, but we met with none on the + fairly level ground, though we could see them just below us. The + surface was fair, usually two inches deep in snow and occasionally a + foot deep. This did not promise easy sledging; but the snow was dry + now, and I was going to cut down the weights to a minimum. + + We could see open water about twenty miles off, but a huge mass of + ice-pack was apparent as far north as we could see. There seemed to be + a broad belt at least sixty miles long, which was quite absent in + January, 1902. + + Obviously our exploration of Terra Nova Bay was impossible now, and it + looked as if the ship would never reach us at Cape Roberts. With good + luck we might cross the Piedmont Glacier to Cape Bernacchi in a few + days, and Pennell might find it easier to reach us there, while we + should at any rate be nearer to Headquarters. There was also a week’s + food there, and we had now only a fortnight’s sledging stores left. + + On February 4th Gran and I explored the sea-ice below the Piedmont for + about four miles to the southward. We passed through the fifteen bergs + in the little bay and then got among the screw-pack. This was covered + with snow and afforded extremely heavy going, as may be imagined. Near + the shore was a perfect network of new cracks with the ice “working” + all the time. Below the glacier wall was a deep tide crack four feet + wide, but where the ice had fallen in we managed to get across to + fixed ice. As a result of this journey I decided to march first along + the sea-ice and then climb up the Piedmont at this point. + + Next morning I wrote a long letter to Pennell, which we all signed. We + made a depôt on the highest point of the Cape and fixed a flag + alongside, with the letter in a little matchbox. The journal for + Captain Scott I left in my ditty bag. I remorselessly weeded out every + one’s gear. We took nothing but what we stood up in, and our notes and + the instruments. Luckily, most of Debenham’s and all Gran’s negatives + were films, but I had to leave nearly all my plates and my cherished + Browning. I knew we had some bad crevassed country to traverse—thirty + miles of this, and then I expected thirty miles of coast work largely + over moraine and rock, where we should have to portage the sledge and + all our gear on our backs. With a light sledge it was just possible we + might be able to raise it if it slipped down a crevasse; and this was + quite a probable event, for in traversing along a piedmont glacier the + party moves _parallel_ to the crevasses. It thus reaches them + imperceptibly, and the whole outfit may be over a crevasse together, + whereas in crossing them at right angles this is rarely the case. + + We turned our backs finally on Cape Roberts at 11 a.m. on the 5th. Our + flag waved bravely, and below was the cairn of stones covering the + food left there by Scott’s orders. If we had to return it would give + us a breathing space, but I never saw the Cape again. For many months + the flag was left in solitude. The screw-pack never broke adrift that + winter. In the next spring, six desperate men sledging southward, as + they thought, to more endurable though no less solitary quarters, here + found the first news of the main party. Our depôt possibly saved + Browning’s life. It certainly gave the Northern party their first + bearable day for many months. Brave old flag! it hangs in Tewkesbury + in Priestley’s home, and there my old Browning was restored to me + after many months! + + So we marched on; we were all stiff and out of training, and the + sledge did not pull easily, but we reached the tide crack and crossed + it much more easily than I expected. After lunch we pulled up the + steep slope of the glacier, and to our delight found the surface grow + harder almost every hour. But other troubles were upon us. For three + days I felt it would not benefit any one to write my diary. However, + on the evening of the 8th I wrote up the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th of + February as follows:— + + “Then quite suddenly we came on huge crevasses all round; some open, + which I took care not to keep too close to, and others bridged. They + seemed too wide to do anything with; but after cautioning the others + to tread quietly, I prodded across safely, though the ice-axe pushed + in all its length easily. Then the others followed, and the sledge + after. Gran fell in at the near edge and saw the straight wall. + Several of these were over twenty feet wide, but we had to chance + them, and tested them all before the sledge started. Then we marched + along between two fairly visible ones, and luckily they didn’t join. + The surface got flatter and they died out gradually so that we made + fair progress. We came to another enclosed snow basin, and I felt sure + the seaward slope would be safer. So it was, though Forde went down a + small crevasse. We pulled along this up to a sort of col—about eight + miles from Cape Roberts,—and here, as we were well beyond the mouth of + the Big Valley, we camped. + + “My only fear now was that bad weather might cover the glacier with + soft snow, for I felt that all the big crevasses would be lidded, and + the little ones could hardly swallow the lot of us.” + + Next morning we made the harness traces longer, so that only one man + at a time need cross even a wide crevasse. We had to traverse the + mouth of another large valley glacier. Three of these debouched on the + Piedmont Glacier from the western mountains, and the pressure from the + northernmost (the Debenham Glacier) was responsible for the crevasses + of the 5th of March. The second valley glacier was not so large, but + we anticipated trouble. We had a stiff pull uphill for three-quarters + of a mile, but some of the snow was so hard that the sledge runners + made no mark. This was an ideal surface, for one’s feet did not slip + on it, though occasionally the sledge skidded. We were about seven + hundred feet above the sea here, and entered a col just below a huge + snow hill. + + “Afterwards we were cutting around the hill aforesaid, when suddenly + appeared many crevasses. So we deviated abruptly and ascended sharply. + We encountered three, into one of which I fell, but they were not very + wide. The moral of this is—Don’t go for the break of a hill facing and + near the sea, but stick to humdrum grades if possible; if not, still + don’t go for the break of a hill!” + + The somewhat frivolous tone of the above note is evidence that it was + written when we had traversed the worst of the Piedmont. It was always + the case “down South.” One never got photographs or “instantaneous + pen-pictures” of anything really exciting. It was always a case of + “Get a move on, and get out of this good and quick,” so that one’s + diary lost most where it would have been most interesting. + + We were now behind Dunlop Island, and about 1250 feet up the Piedmont. + We were astonished to find that the floe had all broken up to + south’ard. Long curved cracks parallel to the coast marked where + pieces were continually floating off. We congratulated ourselves on + our safe position on the Piedmont, for we should have sledged into + this without knowing it had we continued much further on the sea-ice. + Small bergs looking just like white yachts dotted the open water, + which seemed to extend south to Castle Rock. There was no sign of the + _Terra Nova_. We began to think she had come to grief, for Pennell + knew we were free to move off on the 1st of February. + + After supper Debenham got out his plane-table and continued his + survey. He was much puzzled by the position of his station on the + stranded Glacier Tongue to the south-east. He realized soon, however, + that it had twisted round, and was even now preparing to continue its + journey to the Nirvana of warm northern waters. + + We had been blessed with sunshine the last few days. I don’t believe + we should have managed to dodge the crevasses otherwise, for in dull + weather you cannot tell any difference between a ten-foot hollow or a + ten-foot hummock when it is only a yard or two away. However, as a + result, Forde got a bad touch of snow-blindness. Debenham got out the + medical chest. He ground up some ZnSO_{4}, picked it up on a + paintbrush, and dropped it in the corner of Forde’s eye. Later in the + night I gave Forde another dose, for the pain is pretty considerable. + + The next day my right eye was sore and watering, in spite of the amber + glasses, and I feared I was to become a patient also. We plugged along + over an absolutely level snow-plain, when Debenham dropped into a + crevasse, over which I had crossed without puncturing the lid. + + In the afternoon my eyes gave out, and I put on bandages on the right + eye, and gave up the lead to Debenham. It was an astonishing relief to + cease from staring at the glaring surface, and either pull along with + shut eyes or keep one eye on the gratefully dirty back of Debenham’s + jacket. + + Debenham led us safely past three huge crevasses, and we halted for a + spell among a cluster of smaller ones. That evening we climbed up the + snow hill behind Gneiss Point, about 1350 feet above the sea; and as + we had now passed the third valley glacier, I felt we had finished + with the crevasses for the time being. We camped on hard snow, and + Debenham treated me for snow-blindness. The zinc sulphate may + truthfully be described as an eye-opener, but later the cocaine in the + mixture calms things down. You are advised “to keep your face cool.” + But I had to keep my head in the bag to get warm. However, Forde was + pretty right next day, and mine had stopped aching, though everything + appeared double for many hours! + + On the 8th we reached the land near Cape Bernacchi. There was a steep + ice slope two hundred feet high, at an angle of 30°. Luckily it was + much honeycombed and sun-eaten. We put grummets (rope brakes) on the + sledge, and managed to get it down about 130 feet. We had a very + cheerful lunch, for we knew the depôt was only a few miles south. Then + we found an ice-foot all the way along the edge of the rocks and + moraine which led us right to the Bernacchi cairn. This was a regular + ice pathway about twenty yards wide. It was due to sea-ice which had + become cemented to the shore, the tide crack being further away from + the rocks, and defining that part of the floe which had lately drifted + away to sea. + + No one had visited our depôt. New Harbour was full of new broken floe, + but a fine ice-foot seemed to promise well for our next march. + + We stayed a day at Cape Bernacchi, for I wished to get a good station + for the triangulation of this coast. Gran and I took the theodolite to + the top of a hill 2900 feet high, at the north-east end of Dry Valley. + We named this Hjort’s Hill, in honour of the maker of our trusty + Primus lamp. As we were climbing this hill, Gran swore he could see + the ship off Cape Evans through the binoculars. It seemed clear to me + also—smoke, crosstrees, hull, and three masts; but after an hour or so + we decided it was only a mirage crack in the Barne Glacier. The + disappointment was rather keen, though I am now not so sure that we + did not really see the ship, some forty miles away. We could see the + forty-foot debris cones behind the hut quite easily on a clear day. + + I wrote the usual letter to Pennell. I had left two in Granite Harbour + and two on the Piedmont now, and it did not look as if any would ever + be read. + + All through the 10th we skirted New Harbour, finding a fairly feasible + ice-foot between the granite-strewn slopes and the open water. We came + across a Spratt’s biscuit box here, which was evidently left by the + 1902 expedition. We saved a considerable detour by crossing the head + of the harbour on the sea-ice, and camped below the Kukri Hills, where + I halted rather early to get a round of angles. We were held up here + all next day by the snow, which we spent reading and sewing. + + On the 12th we rounded the Kukri Hills, and when the ice-foot petered + out we were luckily able to continue on the sea-ice. We had lunch amid + a colony of over forty seals, and then reached the southern side of + the Ferrar Glacier, where we camped on a rather wet and muddy heap of + “road metal” moraine. + + We were now safely round New Harbour, and, curiously enough, crossed + the sea-ice at the mouth of the Ferrar on the same day of the year as + when we nearly went out to sea on our first sledge journey. + Henceforward we knew our route. We had plenty of food at the Butter + Point depôt, which we reached that evening, and knew we could reach + the old _Discovery_ hut before the end of the month. + + The depôt had been blown over and wrecked generally. We took some + pemmican, butter, and chocolate, and next day proceeded south along + the Butter Point Piedmont. The surface was much better than the + preceding year, but, curiously enough, we found quite a number of + small crevasses. Debenham and Forde fell in together in one of these, + and the burly Irishman jammed so tightly it was quite a business + pulling him out of it. In the evening we reached the Strand Moraines. + These are great piles of ancient silt, gravel, and erratic blocks, + which were dropped here by the ancestor of the present Koettlitz + Glacier. + + At the southern end of these moraines, which were several miles long, + was quite a large lake. We tobogganed down to this and across to a + nice little gravelly delta just made for the tent. We found that the + open water reached just to this point, the sound still being frozen to + south’ard, though obviously breaking away in great sheets. I wrote + that night, “No _Terra Nova_. We should be picked up at Evans Coves + (Terra Nova Bay) to-morrow!” We had the choice of two routes now: + either to cross the snout of the Blue Glacier, or to take to the + sea-ice and coast round the latter. We had done the former and knew it + would only take a day. The latter might be quicker, though a great + calved berg blocked the route about two miles ahead. Debenham + preferred the glacier, the other two the sea-ice. I considered it + unsafe to march on the sea-ice if it could possibly be avoided. I made + a bet with Gran that we couldn’t get the sledge between the calved + berg and the glacier without unloading it. This had a rather + interesting outcome. I decided to keep to land ice, on the principle + of the “Devil you know being preferable to the Devil you don’t.” + +[Illustration: + + THE RUSH TO SAFETY: OVER THE EDGE OF THE BLUE GLACIER. + + From a drawing by D. Low. +] + + It was annoying to find that the Blue Glacier had so completely + changed its complexion in the twelve months. In place of clear blue + ice where one could see every crevasse, it was one uniform sheet of + smooth snow, and we soon began to fall into the crevasses. In a very + short time we had all been in a couple of times, and it was evidently + an unpropitious region for sledging. I deviated to the edge of the + glacier to try and lower the sledge on to the sea-ice, for we were now + abreast of the calved berg, where we halted a few minutes. + + Away to the south-east we could see a blizzard brewing, and I wanted + to get a snug camp in the gullies south of the Blue Glacier. We had an + argument as to who had won the bet, for there was a jumble of ice + where the calf jammed the parent glacier. The other two decided in my + favour, and so we pushed off on the top of the glacier edge to the + wished-for camp. Gran was dissatisfied with the court’s decision, and + kept glancing back to the scene under discussion. Just as we were + dipping down the slope he yelled out “Ship ho!” and there she was over + the top of the black moraines. + + We turned back at full speed to retraverse the crevasses, for she was + four miles off and we were afraid might miss us, as a snowstorm was + brewing in the east. She steamed along past the berg and out along the + floe. We pulled back hard, crossing crevasses carelessly, but not + falling in much, and finally could make out that she had a flag on the + gaff, apparently recognizing us. We kept along the edge of the glacier + till we could find a place to get down. Here was a drop of thirty feet + almost vertical with a big tide crack and a tide-pool at the bottom! + Gran went down first, and then I got down halfway. Unluckily as we + were lowering the sledge Forde was pulled over by his harness and fell + right on to Gran, who was pressed into the snow while the sledge came + down on top of us. It nearly broke in the middle; however, we lugged + it over to the ice and set off hot-foot over the two miles of ice. The + ship now anchored near the floe and four men came to meet us. They + harnessed up and told us the news. We heard that the Southern party + were going very well, that there were no signs of Amundsen, and that + there had been no accidents of importance. Also that they had not been + able to communicate with Cape Evans until a week before, and had been + unloading stores every available moment before they came over to + search for us. And then the world’s news made us feel safer in the + Antarctic at first hearing: the disruption of China, the + Franco-German-English trouble in Morocco, the Italians and Turks in + Tripoli, and the great strikes in England. We had missed an eventful + year during our sojourn in the peaceful regions of the South. + + + + + VII + THE VOYAGE BACK + + FEBRUARY–MARCH, 1912 + + +[Illustration: + + Return voyage of the _Terra Nova_ in March, 1912, showing pack-ice off + Evans Coves and Granite Harbour and the dominant winds determining + the ship’s course. +] + + + + + THE VOYAGE BACK + + + What does it feel like to be in touch with civilization after a year’s + absence? Man is an ungrateful creature, and I can remember what we + missed, better than what we gained on reaching the _Terra Nova_. + However, the letters were there. They had been put ready for us in the + wardroom. No small bag would suffice, our literary matter ran to + pillow-slips. I had one well filled, and Debenham, lucky beggar, had + two! Poor Gran’s home mail failed to reach him, and he had only a few + bills, which he could have spared. I rapidly skimmed through all the + news and then opened up the packets. One young soldier friend sent + along a huge gift of pipes and tobacco. Said he, “I know you didn’t + smoke, but I expect you’ve learnt to! Anyhow they’ll be useful.” They + truly were most acceptable, and were most prized by the party + remaining. To balance this gift he sent along “The Geology of + Nigeria.” + + After the first glance through, however, I turned to more pressing + needs. Clean clothes and a bath seemed the greatest treat one could + wish to enjoy. + + Two factors blocked us. All our clean clothes were on land, some in + our own hut, some in the Old Discovery Hut! Moreover, Ponting came + along and after complimenting us on our villainous appearance, begged + us to remain picturesque until the sun showed enough light for a + photograph! Luckily we had only to wait a few hours for this specimen + of “ponting”; and after four months a day’s more or less grime + mattered little. + + One disappointment we met with. Our first cry was “Letters,” and our + second “Fruit.” Drake sympathized with us and said that all fruit + except apples had been landed at the hut a week ago. However a box of + apples had been reserved for the Western Party. We rushed that box. + The apples were icy cold and frozen solid. Eagerly we placed some on + the top of the wardroom stove. We waited until they were well warmed + and then voraciously bit into them, to encounter a stony iceberg in + the middle! They took an incredible time to thaw, and then all the + plant cells had burst, and the apple was a poor thing all brown and + almost rotten! + + In my cabin I found a small tin trunk with better fare: cakes, sweets + and nuts of all descriptions, everything but chocolate. After hearing + the yarns of some of Shackleton’s men, I expected to be surfeited with + chocolate, and so warned my people not to send any down by the ship. + However, the other luxuries were well-chosen and abundant. Every + officer aboard had selections each day, and not till we reached the + Circle nearly a month later was that tin box depleted. Indeed, one + cake from Parramatta friends was so large that a half was sent to + gratify the mess deck! + + When I was free from Ponting I bolted into the engine-room and was + provided with a huge bucket of scalding water. Rennick and other + officers had lent me some clothes, and I can still remember that bath. + The only available space was over the boilers! I was jammed into a + narrow passage next the ship’s timbers. If one bare foot slipped an + inch too far it touched the boiler plates; if the ship gave a lurch I + cannoned against huge baulks of oak. Still, I started as a toil-worn + and wild-eyed refugee and finished a semi-respectable roustabout! + + Pennell soon gave up all hope of reaching Cape Evans. The blizzard + which was brewing at noon, on the 14th, soon enveloped us, and we were + driven far north. Under these circumstances he deemed it advisable to + make the best of it, and proceed to Evans Coves to try and rescue + Campbell’s party. + + Among my mail I found a book sent by Professor David. This was + “Queed,” by Harrison, a writer new to me. This novel fairly gripped + me, and I turned into my bunk all standing, and read until I had + finished it. I hope all Mr. Harrison’s readers derived as much + pleasure from it. + + “Jim” Dennistoun was a welcome addition to our mess. He had been eager + to see Antarctica in any capacity, and so came along as mule-overseer. + His remuneration was “all found, and one shilling a month.” We often + used to discuss what he would do with the treasure accruing to him + when he was paid off! An ashtray, beaten out of the four-shilling + piece, was the memento he favoured. + + But it was fairly uncomfortable on board. It was now very cold, and + the sun rarely showed for long. Spray was driven over us, and froze + where it fell, so that we spent hours chipping the decks free from + some of the icy layer. The wardroom seemed all doors, and draughts + assailed us everywhere. As usual, on approaching civilization, the + Antarctickers contracted influenza. Debenham was really quite ill, and + I had a fearful attack of neuralgia, which lasted a fortnight, due to + a gaping tooth. We used to think of our snug little tent on terra + firma, and after a week of storm at sea decided that we were sorry we + had been picked up by the trusty whaler. Such is man’s ingratitude. + + _February 23rd._—We spent a most forlorn day. The ship absolutely + jammed in _new_ ice, formed of pancakes only three or four inches + thick, but gummy, not brittle (so that the ship couldn’t break + through). These were formed of still smaller cakes, cemented together. + I was sure they had grown _in situ_, perhaps in the lee of a huge + piece of pack which had drifted off. + + This was very serious, for every hour increased the risk of our being + frozen in, and this was obviously still more probable when we returned + to Cape Evans than in our present position, so much further north. + However, very suddenly the soggy ice was broken by long leads—lying + rather far apart—and we managed to push and butt our way considerably + to the east. + + I was down below when I heard the ominous “three whistles,” which + signifies “all hands on deck.” However, in this case it was a call to + “rock ship.” We all lined up at the port bulwarks, in the waist of the + ship. Then Bruce gave the word, and we “set to partners” across the + hatches, and through the narrow spaces to the starboard side. The ship + swung very slightly in consequence. Bruce timed its swing, and then we + all ran back in unison. This time the swing was a little larger. So by + degrees the ship became a self-acting pendulum, and gradually rocked + herself free from the close embrace of the ice. At the same time the + propeller revolved about 1½ times the normal speed, and the ship began + to give a little, and finally went astern. Then more butting, and a + jam or two, and finally we got into looser pancake, where she could do + four knots. + + Emperor penguins were interested spectators of our manœuvres, while + the distant coast-line was really of great interest when we had time + to observe it. Mount Melbourne was a finer sight than Erebus, for its + cone was more symmetrical, recalling that of Etna. Mount Nansen, + further south-west, was a huge, flattened scarp, resembling Mount + Lister. + + On the 24th we emerged again from the pack to be greeted with a pretty + stiff wind. We steamed south to try and communicate with headquarters. + Lillie told me of some of his results. He believed he could apply the + teachings of Mendelism to the question of colour in half-caste Maoris. + He had made some large collections of fossil plants in New Zealand, + and had dredged up enough of the rare tunicate _Cephalodiscus_ (a + primitive sessile early vertebrate) to supply every museum in the + world! I found out that my thousand insects were probably + _Gomphocephalus_, of which previously only a few odd heads and legs + had been collected in specimens of Antarctic moss. + + We got back to the Sound off Cape Evans about noon on the 25th. A + howling gale was blowing so much frost smoke into our teeth that we + could only just see Inaccessible Isle, now covered with a pall of + snow. We manœuvred in North Bay with the 120-foot wall of the Barne + Glacier looming very close. There was a touch of east in the blizzard, + so that the glacier was not quite on our lee. Pennell dropped anchor + when the soundings showed twenty-five fathoms, but we drifted back + quickly, and when we reached fifty fathoms (three hundred feet) the + anchor dragged. + +[Illustration: + + ENGINEER WILLIAMS AT THE WINCH. +] + +[Illustration: + + BERNARD DAY ON THE CAPSTAN. +] + + We had an awful job hauling up the anchor! Whenever I hear the phrase + “Merrily round the capstan, boys,” I think of that weary time in North + Bay. Each capstan bar had two and sometimes three men pushing it + round. The foc’sle deck was iced over, and even a layer of ashes + afforded little grip, for the blizzard heeled the vessel over, till + the deck sloped like a roof. They tried to help the capstan by a chain + to the steam winch, but the latter ‘took charge’ and nearly flung Bill + Heald off the foc’sle! There was precious little room between the + capstan bars and the rails, and I got jammed, and received a nasty + bruise on the leg. Awful stiff on one’s hands, and on the calf + muscles—like pushing for hours in a football scrum! Pawls (or stops) + prevented the capstan from releasing the chain. Clink ... clank, + clink ... clank; these pawls would sound every minute or so, and then + we had to rest. Each clink meant only an inch or two of cable, and we + had to haul in three hundred feet! When the ship twisted, and the + cable lay along the side of the vessel, it was impossible to raise the + anchor an inch. Finally the anchor caught a firm hold on the third + attempt, about 7 p.m., and we lay steady with ninety fathoms out. The + gale increased, and we all turned in to try and get some rest, and be + ready to land if it lulled. At 11 p.m. Pennell roused us, and I got + into the whaleboat. Bruce was in charge, and I rowed three. We were + less than half a mile from the shore, and found the lee of the cape + quite calm. So I reached the hut, after five months’ absence. It was + eleven days since we had been picked up, all but a few hours, and this + was the first opportunity of communicating with our headquarters. + + I stumbled up the shore, nearly waist-deep in snow, where in the + preceding March there was hardly any! We found them all asleep, and by + no means ready to come off! Simpson and Day were soon dressed. I had, + luckily, left all my gear packed in November, and I hauled my boxes + down to the ice-foot. Simpson, Day, Anton, and I returned, and after + some bumping against the ice-ridged quarter of the _Terra Nova_ we got + safely aboard. + + The gale began again, and all access to the shore was blocked. Simpson + and I yarned till 5 a.m. He told me that Hooper and Day had reached + the Hut on December 21st from the Barrier. They had found their + four-man sledge too heavy, and having no suitable tool had burnt it in + half with the Primus lamp! They had been caught in a blizzard, and had + marched blindly north in the ensuing thick weather. Later, they saw + their tracks led right between two parallel crevasses, either of which + would have engulfed them! + + Next day we could not bring off Meares, Clissold, and Forde. Archer + had gone ashore, so that the ship was now without a cook! The wind was + fairly shrieking, and at 10 a.m. the anchor dragged. + + We spent a most wretched day trying to get it up. Not a budge out of + it, though you burst a blood-vessel! The seamen couldn’t say (as + before) that this was due to work on a Sunday. We found that a cog had + broken in the gears of the capstan; but when they again tried the + steam winch to aid the capstan it stripped off more teeth! + +[Illustration: + + Diagram illustrating the way we managed to “raise anchor” by “luff + upon luff,” February 26, 1912. +] + + Another method was tried in the afternoon, which was very slow, but + not so spendthrift of human energy. It was called “luff upon luff,” + and depended purely on a series of pulleys; whereby a small amount of + force at one end of the rope can slowly move a great weight at the + other. The capstan was now practically useless. So the small steam + winch was connected to a set of heavy pulleys (a “five-ply purchase,” + I believe, is the nautical term) to which a claw hook was attached. + This was hooked into the anchor chain, at the hawse hole, inside the + dark foc’sle. I was halfway man, and it was my duty to yell to the + engineer at the winch, as Bruce advised me he was ready. Another yell + meant that the purchase had done its part, and then Rennick put the + capstan brake on (which would still hold, luckily), and the claw hook + was taken off, and attached some links nearer the anchor. By 6 p.m. we + had raised anchor. It came up as bright as silver, and with the + crossbar (stock) broken clean off! + + All this time we were drifting to the north-west, and had to keep up + steam to hold her from yawing, and to try and keep the cable from + “binding” on the side of the ship. Throughout the 27th we were nosing + up against the fixed ice off Castle Rock, trying to shelter from the + blizzard. By noon, on the 28th, the blizzard dropped enough for us to + lie alongside Glacier Tongue. At 3 p.m. the ice anchors held, and it + was possible to get ashore, and start “icing ship,” for the tanks were + nearly empty. We had to lie bow on, and get the ice in by a basket + slung from the foreyard. A very slow and laborious business; it took + us six hours to get 4½ tons of ice aboard. + +[Illustration: Method of fixing Ice Anchor 28–2–12] + + We then moved off to Hut Point, where we landed some stores and + newspapers for the Pole Party if they should be isolated from Cape + Evans, as we had been in April, 1911. Here I met Wright again. We + learnt that Evans was very seriously ill with scurvy. They wrapped him + up in his sleeping-bag and, dragging him to the ice edge, brought him + aboard in the ship’s boat. We let down ropes to the seamen below, and + they lashed him safely, and he was hauled up, looking more like a + corpse than a live man. However, he could speak cheerfully enough, as + usual! + + We returned post haste to our hut to take advantage of the unusually + calm weather. We unloaded more stores—chiefly fodder, coal, mutton, + and dog biscuits, and then moved north immediately to make a second + try for Campbell at Evans Coves (lat. 75° S.). Day, Dennistoun, and I + spent the morning of the 1st of March shifting cargo. Indeed, we + seemed to spend a large part of our time during the ensuing month in + that abode of gloom—the empty hold of the _Terra Nova_! + + At 10 p.m. we were about fifteen miles from Cape Washington, in very + heavy pancake ice, with a slight swell. There was a thick ice-mush + between the blocks, and this jammed the propeller. For about ten + minutes the engine could not move the shaft. They managed to prise the + ice away finally by poking rods down the rudder post. The grinding and + bumping of the blades on the ice was physically painful. It jarred + one’s whole system just like having a tooth out. The shock to the + propeller, mainshaft, and engine must have been enormous. Luckily our + propeller was four times the usual size for a ship of our tonnage; but + Williams thinks the main shaft might go quite easily, and then we + should be in a mess! + + “_2nd March._—During the morning we skirted the pack southward, doing + a sort of ‘blanket-stitch’ course in a vain endeavour to find a + passage through to Campbell.” + + Dr. Atkinson was on board attending to Evans, who was unable to move + from his bunk until the day we reached New Zealand (2nd April). We had + again to give up hope of rescuing Campbell, and turned south to land + Atkinson. At 9.30 p.m. we were about thirty miles S.E. of the + Drygalski Tongue, and soon had to heave-to on account of bad weather. + But in the afternoon of the 3rd the wind dropped, and in about ten + minutes the sea was frozen over! + + However, this time we reached the Cape fairly readily, and when I woke + on the morning of the 4th I found that we were off the Hut and that a + boat was going to fetch Keohane. He and Atkinson were then landed at + Hut Point, and we had to ice ship again at Glacier Tongue. + + Every man was busily employed. Heald, McCarthy, Parsons, and Cheetham + quarried the ice at the nearest spot where it seemed solid and free + from snow. They filled baskets which Dennistoun, Leese, and myself + pulled to the ice edge. Here Simpson and Rennick linked the baskets on + to the rope, and Lillie, Drake, and Ponting hauled it aboard. Day and + Mather carried it to the tanks, and Meares and Bruce tipped the + baskets into the latter. It was hard work, and kept us going from 3 + p.m. till 10 p.m. Still there was some fun at times. Leese harnessed + the brown sledge dog Tsigan to help him with his sledge, and Tsigan + occasionally bolted over the glacier. One basket fell into the sea, + and Bill Heald lowered me on a rope till I could grab it; then (as + usual) he hauled up too quickly, and I was dragged _through_ the snow + cornice and pretty well filled with soft snow! + + “We shifted eleven tons, and now Pennell’s notice[10] can be + withdrawn. We now have enough to get back. Thank goodness!” + + We had a fairly uncomfortable time on board. The stove below was + faulty, and a change of wind filled the wardroom with smoke. With a + huge skylight, various hatchways and companion ladders, and numerous + portholes, it was hopeless to keep out of draughts. + + Early on the 7th I was awakened by the fiendish clamour which the + propeller was making about a foot under my bunk! “I found that we were + held up in a hole about twice the size of the ship in heavy fixed + pancake. We were over two hours alternately advancing, sticking, + putting on more steam, reversing, and getting out. All the time huge + blocks of ice were being churned round and battered by the propeller. + We had been heading about N.E. when the ship struck, and in next watch + we had to turn round and retreat as we had come. We were now about + forty miles east of Mount Melbourne. + + “She would steam steady for about ten minutes and delude one into + going on deck to see our progress, and we were still in the same + ice-hole! Then we would reverse with more regular vibrations, then + catch a huge bit of ice in the blades, and it would feel as if you + were having three teeth out yourself!” + + At noon Pennell abandoned hope of getting near Campbell. At each + attempt the ice was thicker and wider. Each time we got into worse + positions and spent longer in extricating ourselves. “We are later + than any former ship, not allowing for the extraordinary icebound + conditions, this autumn.” So we turned homeward on the 7th March, and + headed for Cape Adare. + + On this voyage the ship was in charge of Lieutenant Pennell, while + Rennick and Bruce were the other officers, assisted by Cheetham and + Engineer Williams. Lillie carried on his biological work, while Drake + was busy as ever with secretarial duties, varied by readings of the + meteorological instruments. + + We had left the rest of the Western Party at Cape Evans, while + Atkinson and Keohane were stationed at the Old Discovery Hut to + receive the Pole Party. + + The members of the headquarters staff who returned to take up other + duties were Simpson, Taylor, Ponting, Meares, and Day. With the + addition of Lieutenant Evans, who was at first seriously affected by + scurvy, and Jim Dennistoun (of New Zealand), we formed a very happy + family during the month of “wind-jamming” which now awaited us. + + This was Jim Dennistoun’s birthday, and to celebrate it and our start + for home, I brought out the huge cake sent down from home. Half went + forward to the mess deck, and it was much appreciated. We had a + sing-song with banjo accompaniment by Ponting and Bruce, both of whom + could sing pleasantly. Alf Cheetham gave us some typical sailor + chanties in his humorous falsetto voice. Neuralgia kept me from adding + to the entertainment, and I listened from the after cabin. + + During the next few days the afterguard were glad to get warm either + coal-trimming or hauling sails. We would be shivering in the wardroom + when Pennell would come to the “balcony” and yell, “Any volunteers to + trim coal?” Dennistoun was shipped as mule-overseer for the voyage + down, and there was apparently a moral obligation that he should earn + his shilling a week on the return by trimming coal! So he always + turned out and climbed into the bunkers. We followed suit after a few + days’ rest, and worked away in the hold and in the warmer dusty + “bunkers” next the boilers. Then another naval “tyrant” would look + down at the coal trimmers and yell, “All hands on deck to haul + mainsail!” We were true sailor-men in that a chorus of anathemas + saluted our naval colleague! However, we’d go upon deck and get into + oilskins and sou’-westers, and then search out the special halyard in + question, usually finding that the operation had been concluded some + minutes previously! + + With two Liberal Socialists like Simpson and myself, it is not to be + supposed that this continued long! We went on strike and delivered our + ultimatum— + + “Either coal-trimming or sail-hauling—but not both.” Pennell grinned + cheerfully, and said we could do all the coal-trimming if we liked. + Personally I felt this was more scientific, as touching the + departments of statics and applied mechanics as well as geology! So we + decided to shift all the coal and so leave the engineers and stokers + free to attend to the furnaces where they were somewhat shorthanded. + + Never was such an incongruous set of coal trimmers. + +[Illustration: + + Trimming coal in the starboard main hold, March 7, 1912. +] + + Down in the hold a high official in the Indian Weather Service + shovelled the coal into baskets, assisted by our motor expert (Day). A + Cambridge M.A. (and the authority on whales) hoisted the basket with + the help of a well-known New Zealand climber and stockowner. Ponting + bent his artistic intellect to the work of unhooking the basket and + throwing the coal through a door into the bunkers, and inside a + Thibetan explorer and the Physiographer to the Commonwealth “trimmed” + the coal in the bunkers, packed it, and raked it level! + + Simpson and I were busy comparing meteorological data before he took + his notes back to India. I copied such memoranda as seemed to affect + Australian weather. The “upper air” results were very interesting. The + balloon ascents showed that there is a gradual decrease of temperature + with elevation in summer, but that in winter it grows warmer. Thus + there is a tendency to approach the same temperature in winter and + summer at high elevations. He recovered one record which had ascended + nearly twice as high as Erebus, or five miles. + + Priestley’s log for the Northern Party showed that we at Cape Evans + had been having calms while they, at Cape Adare, had experienced a + twelve-days’ hurricane! + + One morning I visited the scene of the pump’s disaster of December, + 1910. There is a wooden shaft enclosing the two pump tubes and just + large enough to enable a man to climb down a ladder at one side. It + reached the bilge, and here the pump tubes dipped into the latter. + Before the gale it was only possible to get into the shaft by the main + hatchway. We inspected it by a lighted matchbox, for the electric lamp + was out of order. Under the main deck and at the side of the + engine-room was the hole[11] cut through the iron bulkhead during the + great gale February 12, 1910, and then the pump shaft was entered by + tearing off the side boards at Y. For it was impossible to raise the + hatches and enter in the ordinary way. Now the nozzles were made + removable, and the entry from the engine-room was kept clear, so that + the same danger could not recur. The sounding rod was let down a tube + in one corner of this well also. + + On the 7th the temperature had been +7°, and now five days later we + reached freezing-point (32°). Thus the weather was about 5° warmer for + each day’s run north. + + “_12th March._—I had a queer dream about the School of Geology at + Sydney, which was quite consistent, and ended with some one going out + and banging the door violently.... So violently that I awoke—to find + the rudder nearly banging itself off with the heavy swell. It is funny + how the sleeping mind adapts itself to real sounds! + + “There was no wind, but we had most awful rolling, 41° from the + vertical, so that the swinging lamp in my cabin is nearly lying on its + side. My books sling off the shelves, my boxes come adrift, I was + tossed across the cabin, and all the plates, etc., on the tables jump + right over the fiddles! When we turned in I couldn’t keep still, + though jammed by my knees, toes, back, and head. I stuck in a + drawing-board to prevent my being flung out, and got no sleep, but a + stiff neck through using it as a strut.” + +[Illustration: + + A. B. CHEETHAM, WHO HOLDS THE RECORD FOR CROSSING THE ANTARCTIC + CIRCLE. +] + +[Illustration: + + G. C. SIMPSON, MARCH, 1902. +] + + Simpson amused us with some early recollections of Sunday schools. + “How did Absalom die?” Loud chorus from the afterguard, “Caught by his + hair and hanged.” Simpson, “The Bible doesn’t say so!” “Who was the + oldest man?” _Frantic_ chorus by aforesaid, “Methusaleh.” _Simpson_, + “No, Enoch, _his_ father, because Methusaleh died before he did!” Then + Simpson quoted an essay by one school. “Moses’ mother was very cruel, + and she put him in the bulrushes, when she got sick of beating him.” + Asked to explain this the boy said, “Well, isn’t that what the Bible + says—when she could _hide_ him no longer?” + + During the next few days we were busy writing the cables for the + Associated Press, and I got Drake to type a report of the last western + journey for Captain Scott (which he never saw). The hard-worked + afterguard were now set to wash the wardroom! On the 15th I note— + + “Day, Meares, and Dennistoun are doing a bit of charing. This morning + Meares dropped a rag on me as I was working below and missed. Then + Dennistoun asked me to pick it up, and as I looked up, got me in the + eye. So I went for him, and scrubbed his face muchly with soft soap, + amid hilarity.” + + At noon on the 16th we passed the Balleny Isles. We could see Buckle + Island about thirty miles to the south as a snow-covered mountain + occasionally showing through the clouds. Only one or two ships have + been so close to these islands since they were charted by Balleny. We + crossed the circle that evening, and celebrated it by another + sing-song. Most of us sang something, Ponting’s contribution with its + refrain of “Boil—my mother” (a study in wrong punctuation) bringing + down the house! + + Very early on the 17th every one on deck was busy furling sail when + MacCarthy suddenly spotted an iceberg dead ahead. Luckily we just had + time to steer clear. We had been having “iceberg watch” for some time + now. I had been on duty from 12 to 2 a.m., though I could see nothing + through the snow. The ship was going about five knots, and the white + spume spreading from the bows was about all that was visible. A berg + shows up merely as a greyish cloud under these circumstances. + + There were many visible during daytime. At noon, for instance, we + passed another much weathered, and resembling a decayed molar tooth. + Possibly this resemblance is based on similar causes—a hardened outer + skin cemented by spray, etc., and a softer core weathering from above. + + I went on iceberg watch again from 8 p.m. till 10. There was some snow + again, and it was difficult to see anything. All this week we had been + driving to the west, so as to pick up the constant west winds and sail + on a slant up to New Zealand. We had only forty-seven tons of coal + left now, and if we got blown past New Zealand with no coal—as was + quite probable—it would take weeks for this bluff old whaler to beat + back against head winds. + + Poor old Nigger has gone overboard, finally we fear. We were all proud + of our black Tom. He fell overboard on the last voyage, and luckily + was seen manfully (or catfully?) swimming along in the wake of the + ship. The crew got out a boat, saved him, and were back in twelve + minutes! But no one saw the last tragedy. In the hold we found two + rabbits having a thin time, and fed them on carrots and bread and + milk. I don’t know their ultimate fate. (There’s a black welcome for + bunnies in Australia, which I thought extended to New Zealand also.) + + I can see the afterguard becoming regular sailor-men! On the 20th we + had another mutiny—about food this time. + + _The Mutineers._ “When are you going to give us a change from this + everlasting mutton, Frankie?” + + _Store-keeper Drake._ “Mutton’s very good food.” + + _Mutineers._ “Why can’t we have ‘True-egg’ omelettes?” + + _Drake._ “Well, perhaps we could have that as an additional dish.” + + _Mutineers._ “Why _additional_, Frankie?” + + _Drake._ “Because Frankie doesn’t like True-egg!” And he added, “If + you want more _mutton_, just say so!” + + (A very finished “cagger” is Frankie Drake.) + + We had very variable weather during the last week or so of our voyage, + and I give herewith the record of the worst gale ever experienced by + any man on the _Terra Nova_. My journal suffered in consequence, but I + will copy my notes written just after the gale, _verbatim_. First of + all, here is a copy of the ship’s log for the worst days of the gale. + +[Illustration: + + A VERY “ORDINARY SEAMAN.” + + (The writer.) +] + +[Illustration: + + PENNELL ON BRIDGE. +] + + ────────┬─────────┬──────┬───────┬────────┬────────────┬────┬──────┬───── + 1912. │Distance.│ Max. │Course.│ Wind. │ Force. │Sea.│Barom.│Temp. + │ │speed.│ │ │ │ │ │ + ────────┼─────────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼────────────┼────┼──────┼───── + March 22│ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ + a.m. │ 50 │5·9 at│ N. 30 │ S. │ 7 gale│ 7 │28·99 │30·8 + │ │ │ W. │ │ │ │ │ + p.m. │ 59·5 │7 a.m.│N. 7 W.│ „ │ 8 „ │ 8 │ — │ 37 + ────────┼─────────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼────────────┼────┼──────┼───── + March 23│ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ + a.m. │ 37 │ 5·6 │ │ W.S.W. │ 8 gale│ 8 │28·78 │ 37 + p.m. │ 48 │ noon │ │ „ │ 9 9 │ „ │ — │ — + ────────┼─────────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼────────────┼────┼──────┼───── + March 24│ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ + a.m. │ 52 │ 5 │ N. │ S.W. │ 8 gale│ 8 │28·73 │ 40 + p.m. │ 57 │7 p.m.│N.N.W. │ „ │ 10 „ │ │ — │ — + ────────┼─────────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼────────────┼────┼──────┼───── + March 25│ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ + a.m. │ 49·5 │ 4·8 │ N. 22 │ S.S.W. │9 to 11 gale│ 9 │29·03 │ 37 + p.m. │ 48·3 │ noon │ W. │ „ │ 8 „ │ 8 │ — │ 43 + ────────┼─────────┼──────┼───────┼────────┼────────────┼────┼──────┼───── + March 26│ │ │ │ │ │ │ │ + a.m. │ 25·1 │ 3·4 │ N. 50 │S. by W.│ 7 │ 7 │29·66 │42·2 + p.m. │Becalmed.│7 a.m.│ W. │ „ │ 2 │ 5 │ — │44·5 + ────────┴─────────┴──────┴───────┴────────┴────────────┴────┴──────┴───── + + “_26th March._—It is now 12.40 p.m. We have had a satisfactory lunch + of roast mutton and treacle duff (_toujours mouton!_). It is nearly + calm, and we have all sail set, and are hurrooshing along at nearly + two miles an hour! + + “I am five days behind in my diary. We have had a pretty sudden + gale—the worst ever felt by any one on board, I believe. It culminated + about midnight on the 24th or 25th. For several days it had been + blowing almost storm-force from the S.W., and so helped us along O.K., + though rather too much westerly, and we could only drive along in + front of it. With three stormsails (main lower topsail, fore lower + topsail and inner jib) we went along for days at five miles an hour. + + “On the evening of the 24th Day and I had First Watch. I was told off + to assist Pennell from 10 to 11 p.m. I put on my paraphernalia and + turned out on a wild stormy night, after prolonged bumping in my bunk + for three or four hours. It was awful on deck, the ship mostly with + her lee scuppers under water, and kept there at a constant heel, with + only three small stormsails. We were running before the gale (an + unusual experience nowadays, as Penelope cheerily pointed out!), + luckily just on our course. To windward (in south-west) the sky was + covered with gloomy clouds—several black bows, which always mean + squall-storms, being hideously apparent! White horses raced past the + bows, and were all one could see in the darkness. They looked just + like detached floes! The whole time we had to clutch the bridge rails + to prevent our rolling down to leeward. + + “Then the sky got darker all over, the stars disappeared. A sudden + squall hit us, and then the shrouds started shrilling and booming. The + canvas screen on the bridge bulged in; your nose nearly blew off your + face if you looked over it, while the canvas made eddies which + deflected the wind into your face. + + “The ship plunged forward into the black, sometimes partially + righting, but mostly lying over at 30°. Then the black squall passed + (in about ten minutes) and a patch of clear sky showed to windward. + Another squall-bow appeared, and we were battered and driven over + again. This lasted longer, about twenty minutes. Penelope asked me to + go to the standard compass (near the foremast) to check the steersman. + I got the electric torch and managed to crawl on to the ice-house + which supports the compass. Up a silly little ladder with no grip, and + in flapping oilskins to find Rennick there before me. Then I had to + crawl round and see that the helmsman was keeping his course. I + clutched at his screen-posts and wondered if they would blow overboard + next gust. (The screen went over next day!) About 10.40 a thick black + cloud enveloped the horizon to the west and gradually reached us. This + accompanied a squall where nature fairly burst her bounds! The sea was + blown flat, and the air filled with horizontal hurtling arrows of + sleet and water. I didn’t know that wind could show such malignancy! + Don’t know how the stormsails stood it, I suppose because the rigging + would do for a ship about twice this size! It was a snorter. Couldn’t + see more than a hundred feet, though there was no snow in the air. + Just solidified wind, I guess. + + “If the sails had not held it would be called force 12—the maximum, as + it is they are content with force 11. Penelope said he enjoyed this + sort of thing, but I can’t say I was thrilled with enthusiasm, and I + preferred to be where the hurricane force was not quite so obtrusively + obvious! So at 11 p.m. I unselfishly called Bernard Day for his share + of the hell-broth, and went down below to try and forget it in sleep.” + + It culminated at 3 a.m., when the starboard whaler was torn from one + davit. Just as they got a rope under the loose end the other broke + loose. So they cut it adrift after it had been bumping on the ship’s + side for some hours a few inches from Lieutenant Evans’ sickbed! + + Bernard Day was nursing Evans, who was progressing satisfactorily, + though still very weak. However, by now he was nearly as cheerful as + usual, and his cabin was chiefly noticeable from the amount of + laughter emanating therefrom. He had onions, oranges, and beer in + excess of our ration, and got up for a few moments just before the + gale. + + “Now that the engines are stopped (to save coal) we have to use the + hand-pumps continuously—about a quarter of an hour each four hours. In + the storm, owing to the rolling, it takes longer, for the well only + fills slowly through its small holes, and most of the bilge lies on + the lee side. + + “The pump-handles (across the waist) are left on all the time now, and + with ‘life-lines’ they make something to grip as you sidle along the + deck. Ponting didn’t see the handle, and running to dodge a big wave + he was knocked silly by a blow on the brow. Result—two lovely black + eyes, and a thankful heart that his nose wasn’t broken!” + + The same day a big sea pooped the ship and covered the steersman + (MacCarthy) in fifteen feet of water! It broke down the canvas screen + protecting him, but didn’t dismay MacCarthy. He had bad luck later, + also. For climbing the ratlines to free some tackle his helmet was + knocked off. It nearly came inboard on an incoming wave over the lee + bulwarks, but not quite. However, all that cheery MacCarthy said was, + “Maybe ’twill make the gale lessen a bit!” + + There was naturally not much comfort anywhere on board, not even in + the cabins. I think the following extract speaks for itself— + + “My bunk is just over the counter, where the waves bump every few + minutes, just over the screw; just under the chilled feet of the + steersman who dances on the deck, which is like a sounding board; and + just next the rudder, which has two dozen squeaks and groans of its + own. Add to this rolls varying from 30° to 50° each way. + + “I have made a fine hanging candlestick from a chain of safety pins + and a bent wire, and this swings out and bangs my head. I stick in my + drawing-board at the side of the bunk, and so try to get some sleep in + the fearful rolling. + + “There I lay, throughout the day, + Lying this and then that way, + Pain and cramp from toe to shoulder; + Up and down the tempest rolled her. + Pitch and toss, athwart across— + Never worse befell old Ross. + Waves belched round, above, right over + Poor old storm-tossed _Terra Nova_.” + + On the 26th we had discussion of Amundsen’s chances, and I got Pennell + to draw a map of his winter quarters. This has some interest, as we + did not know anything of his movements for over a week yet. + +[Illustration: + + Chart of Bay of Whales, 78° S. + 164° W., after Amundsen. +] + + “The _Discovery_ in 1902 found several deep bays in the edge of the + Ross Ice Barrier. Balloon Bight went in about ten miles. Shackleton in + 1908 found that these had merged into one and he was stopped by + sea-ice at the head. + + “Pennell in the _Terra Nova_ found Amundsen’s Hut (in February, 1911) + to be about two miles from the water on a ridge of old sea-ice about + thirty feet high, but hidden from the ship by another ridge of the + same nature. + + “To the west was an indifferent lane half a mile wide which reached + _behind_ the hut. Here the sea-ice was only a few feet above the water + except where pressure occurred. The ice in the west of the lane was + breaking out. Behind this about four miles off was an eighty-foot + cliff of Ice Barrier with a path up in the south-east. I wouldn’t like + his winter, though if he lasted through the autumn he might be O.K. + afterwards. Anyhow, we’ll know in about a week now. We had a great cag + to-day. Some are still sure that Amundsen did nothing at the Pole. The + arguments are: (_a_) Amundsen never liked sledging; and (_b_) if he + meant to go up another glacier than the Beardmore, he’d have acquired + merit and said so! + + “Contrariwise (_a_) if he found going easy he might have prospected up + an easy one, perhaps in 1911; and (_b_) if he’d gone astray, the Fram + would have come to us to investigate this year.” + + “On the 27th we finished off the cable. It runs to 7,500 words, of + which the western party contributed 900. It is to be delivered to the + agent at Akaroa on Monday (first of April). A funny day to send off a + big cable, but it won’t be published till the 2nd in England, and ten + hours later in Australia. Meanwhile we loaf about till Wednesday + morning (minimum 36 hours), and then land at Lyttelton as soon as + possible.” + + On the 30th the coal gang put in about six hours filling the bunkers, + so as to rest on Sunday. We shifted seven tons. The gale had rounded + the large lumps of coal, the impacts turning them into egg-shaped + boulders. The coal-dust was packed into a hard layer which we could + hardly break out with a pick! This is what clogged the pumps in 1910, + and in that gale Teddy Evans was head and shoulders under the bilge + water groping for the mud clogging the pump-roses. + + During Sunday we slowly cruised towards Akaroa. After lunch we sighted + a school of eight sperm whales. We turned off and followed them. + Mostly one saw their broad rounded brown backs. Then one would raise + his head a little and blow off “steam,” not up straight but diagonally + forward. Sometimes their large triangular tail fins showed, and once + or twice the huge torpedo head appeared above water. Our harpoon gun + was out of order, but they were too shy to let us approach within + striking distance. Each of these whales was worth £300, so that there + was a small fortune in the whole school. + + _Monday, April 1._—About 6 a.m. we approached Akaroa. It was a bright + morning as we entered the very fine harbour, the Heads reminding me of + those of Sydney. We could see the friendly light of the lighthouse + twinkling a greeting to us. Then we saw ragged clumps of the first + trees—two on the skyline resembling a pair of roosters fighting, and + sheep, like rabbits, browsing on the steep hillsides. We lay about a + mile off the little town, while Pennell and Drake went off in the + cutter and were met by a launch. All communication was forbidden with + the shore, but later two men in a small launch hovered around us. As + they pushed off they called out— + + “Why didn’t you get back sooner? Amundsen got the Pole in a sardine + tin on the 14th December.” + + “Pennell returned about 11 a.m. and confirmed it. Amundsen has done + wonderfully. His risky hut site was not so bad as we expected. In + place of howling blizzards four days in each week, he seems to have + had calm weather! But his bold dash up another glacier, his getting + five men there, and his nice behaviour after returning with regard to + Scott and his work have changed our opinion of him _in toto_. + + “Scott will have reached the Pole about January 16. When he sees the + tent and flag there he will get a most unpleasant shock. Amundsen + started eleven days before Scott and was eighty miles nearer. He got + there only thirty days sooner, so that he didn’t march much quicker. + + “In the west Gran and I agreed that he had a very good chance, and + Gran has written down in my sledge diary the day he (Amundsen) would + get there. I haven’t looked at it, but believe he was at the Pole at + the day Gran said!” + + This prophecy has aroused some interest among psychologists at home! + So I will explain the circumstances. Gran woke up on December 20, + 1911, when we were camped in the Punch Bowl and had been sledging over + a month. He declared that he knew that Amundsen was turning back. As + natural we pooh-poohed this. He said, “Well, I’ll write it down in + Grif’s book here.” He did so; but in my Browning and not in the diary + (as I say above). + +[Illustration: + + PONTING IS HERE ARRANGING THE CREW FOR A PHOTO OFF AKAROA. PROBABLY + HIS LAST EFFORT AT “PONTING” ANY OF US. + + The dog Tsignan in the foreground. +] + + This copy of Browning was left on Cape Roberts with all other + non-essentials on February 5. It remained there until picked up by + Priestley, six months after I had reached Australia. It was restored + to me in Priestley’s home at Tewkesbury in 1913, nearly two years + after Gran’s inscription. I looked through it and came on Gran’s note, + which I here reproduce. This is one of the most extraordinary + coincidences I know of, and owing to Gran’s isolation from all outside + information is perhaps unique. + + I am personally of opinion that coincidence and not telepathy is + involved; though it is a fact that Gran never made any other attempt + to get an undoubted record of a dream, and he certainly believed this + to be something supernatural at the time! + + During Monday we idled off Akaroa. Some fish were caught, Day hauling + in a huge barracouta and Evans a rock cod, which he caught as he was + sitting in a deck chair, and so celebrated his first day out of the + cabin. They tasted good at lunch! We trimmed eight tons of coal during + the day, so that only five were left! Then I had a huge bath, borrowed + a shirt, and got into clean clothes ready for civilization! + + On Tuesday I packed all my gear, which was lucky, for I only had half + an hour to catch the Sydney boat finally. On Wednesday morning we + entered Lyttelton Harbour early in the morning. A tug came to meet us, + carrying Mrs. Wilson and Mrs. Evans. Pennell asked me to steer the + ship into harbour—why, I know not; unless he thought I looked too + respectable and might look more natural after a trick at the wheel. + However, one of the seamen did all the heavy brain work, and I merely + assisted at the tricky corners! + + Simpson, Meares, and I hurried for the first train to Lyttelton. + Simpson was not specially noticeable except for his ski-boots, I had + on his shirt and Evans’ cap. Meares was clothed in a suit lent by Jim + Dennistoun, who said it was an old one of his father’s. I think + Meares’ departure was hastened by the advance of Mr. Dennistoun senior + to greet his son! + + I spent only one day in Christchurch, for finding that a ship left for + Sydney that evening, I transhipped all my gear to the mailboat and was + back in Australia on the 7th April, 1912. + + + + + VIII + THE END OF THE EXPEDITION + + + + + THE END OF THE EXPEDITION + + +[Illustration: + + Chart of parties, December 14, 1911 (Amundsen reaches the Pole). +] + + I have brought the story of the Expedition up to April, 1912, so far + as my own part in it is concerned. But it will be of interest to give + a brief _résumé_ of the much more arduous journeys of the other + divisions of the Expedition. + + Let us consider the distribution of the _personnel_ in the middle of + December. In the far north at Cape Adare, Campbell and his five mates + were awaiting the arrival of the _Terra Nova_ to take them to fresh + fields of work. The sea-ice had blown out early in spring, and they + had been cooped up on the rocky promontory unable to explore the + hinterland, just as had Borchgrevinck ten years earlier. The ship was + not due until early in January, but Levick’s penguin studies and + Priestley’s ice-notes testify to the industry of the scientific staff + during their imprisonment. + + Further south my own party was preparing to climb the Mackay Glacier, + as recorded previously. We were to be taken north on the ship to Evans + Coves (to spend five weeks there during January and February) as soon + as the _Terra Nova_ could reach us. + + At Headquarters Simpson was completing his meteorological + log—certainly the most valuable record of Antarctic weather which has + yet been obtained by any of the numerous expeditions to the southern + continent. Ponting was living at Cape Royds, and obtaining many of his + most successful studies of animal life. + + To the south stretches the Great Ice Barrier, and somewhere off White + Island a party of two men are doggedly pursuing their homeward path. + They are dragging a queer contraption—a sledge burnt in half—and each + night have great difficulty in erecting their four-man tent. Neither + Day nor Hooper understands navigation, and their plight, if they miss + one of the old pony shelters, will be pitiable. They lie up during a + heavy blizzard, and then start off, desperate, through the drifting + snow. They arrive safely, and a few days later, returning on their + path, see their blindfold tracks passing along the narrow ridge + between two huge crevasses! + + Another stage of some two hundred miles shows us, at the foot of the + Beardmore Glacier, a second supporting party, which has just bidden + farewell to Captain Scott. Meares, with Demetri and the dog teams, is + proceeding north again for his last journey on the Great Ice Barrier. + For three months he has been forwarding stores ahead of the pony + parties, and now the Pole party pushes on, unsupported by ponies or + dogs, on the two hardest stages to the Pole. + + Scott has just finished the hardest day’s work he experienced on the + ascent of the Beardmore. “A most damnably dismal day,” he calls it. + Next day, the 14th—which is that on which all the positions in the + preceding figure have been charted—they begin to reach better + surfaces, and the three parties, under Evans, Bowers, and the leader, + swing along at an encouraging rate. + + Far to the south—indeed, at the uttermost south—five Norwegians have + reached their goal: Amundsen, Bjaaland, Hanssen, Hassel, and Wisting. + After a few days’ rest they have verified their position, and made + sure of the Pole by a circular journey round the apparent site. And + now they are preparing to return to Framheim and the north. + + Prestrud, Amundsen’s lieutenant, has just carried out his trip to King + Edward VII. Land. There, beyond the Barrier, he reached high land. + Rocky cliffs appeared in a few _nunatakker_ above the snow mantle. To + these they gave Scott’s name. + +[Illustration: + + Chart of parties, January 18, 1912 (Scott reaches the Pole). +] + + The next chart shows the position of the parties on the 18th of + January, 1912. Cape Adare is now deserted. Campbell has been picked up + by the _Terra Nova_, and safely landed at Evans Coves for five weeks’ + exploration between Mount Nansen and Mount Melbourne. Then the ship + sails south to pick up the western party at Granite Harbour, and to + communicate with Headquarters. The pack-ice is still solid in MacMurdo + Sound; the ship can do nothing till well into February. The western + party are waiting on Cape Roberts some twenty miles from the ship. As + narrated previously, they realize that there is no hope of relief in + that quarter, and later march overland to the hut. + + Day and Meares have reached the hut, and Atkinson is now halfway home + across the Great Barrier. They have had an anxious rush to keep the + balance between food and time. Only one day—Christmas—has been + different from the many weary days of sledge-hauling. Among the + moraines near the “Cloud-maker,” Wright discovered a piece of marble + containing the first large Archæocyathine fossil from Antarctica. + Although vastly larger than Shackleton’s specimens, this is only a + centimetre long! + + Lieutenant Evans has now also turned northward, and, with Lashley and + Crean, is nearing the foot of the Beardmore. For him worse troubles + are approaching. Worn out by constant sledging and unsuitable food, he + is attacked by scurvy, and only saved by the gallant devotion of his + naval mates. + + Captain Scott has accomplished his task, and within the time he had + allotted to it. Realizing that if Amundsen came successfully through + the winter his methods must be speedier than those of the English + party, Scott proceeded steadily along the lines he had decided upon + when he left England. It was a bitter disappointment. Since Amundsen + had reached the Pole the year 1911 had passed away; and so the record + stands: “The South Pole: Amundsen 1911, Scott 1912.” How few will + realize that but a few weeks intervened between the two achievements! + +[Illustration: + + Chart of parties on March 21, 1911 (the last camp). +] + + Meanwhile the Norwegian is speeding back to the _Fram_, and already + the hardest part of his journey is over. In mid-January the conditions + of the Barrier bear no remote resemblance to those in mid-March. No + one who has not experienced it can picture the enormous difference due + to the lapse of those two months. + + The third chart shows the scene of the last tragedy. Far to the north + the ship is nearing civilization. Campbell’s party is isolated at + “Hell’s Gate,” their cheerless home at Evans Coves. Here in a hole in + the snow they wear out a weary existence for eight never-ending + months. No other Antarctic party has ever experienced such a test of + courage and endurance. Even Mawson’s three weeks alone gave less + opportunity for utter despair than the life of these six men from + March to October, 1912. + + All communication is now cut off between Cape Evans and the Barrier. + At the 1910 Hut are Nelson, Debenham, Wright, and Gran with some of + the men, and fourteen miles south in the old _Discovery_ Hut are + Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, Keohane, and Demetri. But two of these are + invalids—worn out by wild weather on the Barrier when they carried + further supplies to One Ton Depôt. + + Eleven miles south of this depôt—and just beyond where Bowers and Gran + reached in the depôt trip of February, 1911—is the last camp of the + Pole party. All the world has been moved by Scott’s messages from this + formless yet historic site. It would be presumption in me to try and + describe it. + + Why did the tragedy occur? I am convinced that no reason beyond that + of Seaman Evans’ illness is required. When Wilson was coaching us as + to how we should meet the hazards of Antarctic sledging, he told us of + frostbites, chills, blizzards, and so forth. I said that these seemed + surmountable, but I added, “What are we to do if one of the party + breaks his leg?” which seemed by no means impossible in the rough + rocky region before us. Dr. Bill replied, “Well, you will have to make + a more or less permanent camp, kill plenty of seals, and wait there + until you are relieved, or until the leg is usable again.” Two factors + were vital—rest for the invalid, and seal meat for the party’s + sustenance. When Evans met with his accident, there could be no rest + for any, sick or well. It was a race with famine, in which only strong + men had any chance. There was no need for a severe accident to + handicap the party hopelessly, as in the case of Dr. Mertz. A slight + ailment rapidly becomes mortal. A sick man must be kept warm, and in + the Antarctic the only warming agent is the human one. Very literally + a man “keeps himself warm” with the most wonderful furnace in + nature—fed with fuel in the form of biscuits and pemmican. And so, I + believe, that, short of abandonment, the party had no hope with a sick + man on their hands. Scott and Wilson would remember, however, that + they had managed to bring back Shackleton to safety in 1903, and would + hope to do the same again, even though the distance was four hundred + miles instead of a hundred and fifty. + + With each hour’s delay each man grew weaker. Each day the weather grew + worse than the preceding. The sun now sank below the horizon at night + and the Antarctic cold, unopposed by his warm beams, spread resistless + through both animate and inanimate nature. Each night was longer, each + march a harder fight against the blizzard drift. + + I used to wonder how Shackleton managed his wonderful feat with an + unsupported party. He told me that he would never have got through if + it had been calm, nor if the wind had been but a trifle different. For + days, on their return Barrier journey, they were marching through + drift which did not rise to their eyes and so block their view; but + was due to a southern blizzard wind just strong enough to fill their + sail and push them to the north. Captain Scott met with no such + fortune. He was a month later than Shackleton, and when Oates fell + sick their chance had gone. + +[Illustration: + + _Glossopteris_, a Permo-Carboniferous fern from the Upper Beardmore + Glacier. +] + + I do not believe that unaided the three men would have survived even + if they had reached One Ton Depôt. There was no chance of thorough + rest there, and nothing else could have saved them. At their slow rate + of marching they were still ten days from Discovery Hut, and such a + period of exposure would have been too much for them. Their journey + was a supreme struggle against all the powers of Nature, and when all + human effort had been expended they succumbed, winning a deathless + renown which has aroused the envy of all brave men and the admiration + of the world. + + On their last few marches, when everything was fighting against them, + they kept the specimens gathered by Wilson at the head of the + Beardmore Glacier. Scott writes, “The geological specimens carried at + Wilson’s request will be found with us or on our sledge.” It is + pleasant to think that these specimens, which must have a greater + sentimental value than any others of their kind, have also a greater + scientific value than any hitherto obtained in the Antarctic. At the + Australian meetings of the British Association Professor Seward gave + two lectures dealing with the fossil leaves which they contained. + Perfect examples of the fern-like plant _Glossopteris_ were + preserved—closely related to those occurring in India, Australia, + South Africa, and South America. In fact, this plant is the emblem of + the ancient continent of Gondwanaland; and the Polar specimens give + positive and invaluable evidence of the condition of the world in + Permo-Carboniferous times, of a sort which can truly be called + epoch-making. + + I can here give no account of the doings of the small band during the + last months spent by the expedition in Antarctica. The record of the + survey of Erebus by Priestley and Debenham and of the search for the + Polar party can be read in other volumes. + + + However the world knew nothing of this disaster until the ship + returned in February, 1913. Remembering the pleasure I had felt from + Professor David’s gift of “Queed,” I sent down a few books by the ship + in the preceding December. In each case I tried to suit the + recipient’s taste. Thus Nelson received “Queed” (Harrison); to Wright + I sent “Marriage” (Wells); to Cherry “The Dreadnought on the Darling,” + in memory of his Australian travels. To Debenham and Uncle Bill I sent + books in the writing of which I had had a part. To Bowers (in the + character of “Farmer Hayseed”) I sent Bean’s fine book “On the + Wooltrack”; and to Priestley, “We of the Never Never” (Gunn). + Atkinson, I hope, had a fellow-feeling for pugilist “Shorty McCabe”; + while Gates would have been carried back to Africa by “The Dop + Doctor.” I knew Rex Beach would attract Gran—so he was furnished with + “The Silver Horde.” + + I was carrying out a geological survey at the Federal capital, and in + the solitary evenings I managed to pile up a huge budget of letters + for my returning mates. Some of them, alas! were returned unopened. + + In February Bernard Day reached Australia and was in Sydney with me + when we heard the sad news. I had never anticipated any serious + accident to the Pole party—chiefly, I expect, because Shackleton had + managed to pull through safely. But I should not have been surprised + to hear of disaster in Campbell’s northern party, for no one had lived + through a winter in such fashion before. + + A solemn service was held in the Cathedral at Sydney, and later at a + meeting to initiate a memorial fund, Professor David gave an eloquent + justification of Antarctic exploration and paid a touching tribute to + the characters of the lost men. As a result of similar appeals in this + and other states, the Empire contributed most generously to the + Captain Scott Fund. + + The Federal Government kindly granted me leave to collaborate with the + scientific members in London; and Priestley and I returned home in the + _Mongolia_. We arrived in London in time for the Albert Hall meeting + in May. Commander Evans here described to the large and deeply + interested audience the chief features of the 1910 Antarctic + Expedition. + + The office in Victoria Street was the rendezvous of the surviving + members of the Expedition, who were nearly all reunited within the + next month or two. Simpson was too busy in India to visit England, Day + was in Sydney; but with these exceptions we were all present at + Buckingham Palace when the King’s medal was presented in July. The men + under Lieutenant Rennick marched from Victoria Street, and joined the + officers in the Palace. Here we were marshalled in three lines—naval + officers, scientific and other officers, and seamen. Lady Scott and + Mrs. Wilson, Mrs. Bowers, Mrs. Evans, and Mrs. Brissenden,[12] were + received first by His Majesty. The others were presented by Prince + Louis of Battenberg, and as each advanced the King shook hands, gave + him the medal, and said a word or two. + + We returned to the Caxton Hall, and after drinking some farewell + healths, the expedition, as a whole, was disbanded. + + But the scientific work will take several years to complete, and + thanks to the generosity of the public, the means for carrying this + out are adequate. No less than £75,000 was placed at the disposal of + the Committee, while in addition to this the Government is paying out + various sums from the Pension Fund. + + Some £34,000 was allocated from the Public Fund to the widows and + dependants of the lost explorers. A bonus was paid to the officers and + men; the debt of the Expedition was paid, and £17,500 was set apart + for the publication of the scientific results. + + Some £18,000 remains for a memorial to the men who died. Of this + amount half will be expended on a suitable monument, which will + probably be placed in Hyde Park, and on a tablet in Saint Paul’s. The + balance will be devoted to an endowment fund in aid of future Polar + research. “This is an object which it is believed would have commended + itself greatly to the late Captain Scott.” So concludes the report of + the Mansion House Committee. + + This narrative began amid the Colleges of Cambridge, and may very + fittingly close there. Dear Uncle Bill will never return to his rooms + in Caius College; but on the old archway through which he reached his + quarters, are blazoned the names of Wright and Debenham. For Debenham + has joined Caius, and “keeps” just below his sledge-mate, between the + Gates of Wisdom and Honour. + + In a spacious room in the Old Court of John’s, Lillie ponders over + problems of Antarctic Biology. Priestley is a Fellow Commoner of + Christ’s, and for a time I had diggings in the Hostel at Emmanuel. + Priestley and I “kept” almost next door to each other, and almost + always had our meals together; and during the day Debenham joined us + in the huge “Antarctic Room” in the Sedgwick Museum. Here the + specimens from the South were labelled, sectioned, and described. Here + often appeared Wright and sometimes Lillie, while Pennell, Nelson, + Atkinson, and others visited us not infrequently. + + The various researches are being carried out under the supervision of + the British Museum authorities, while Captain H. G. Lyons is acting as + general editor of the scientific publications. + + I have finished. In this account I have tried to show that a Polar + expedition is a microcosm in its own peculiar way. Here are labours of + a strenuous type, but not insuperable in the main. Here are dangers + which the city dweller never meets, but which lose half their terrors + with familiarity. Here are pleasures—like the labours and the + danger—more concentrated than those met with in times of ease. Here, + lastly, is fellowship, which is the chiefest charm of exploration. + + It is a truism to declare that friends of the sledge-trace and + sleeping-bag are friends for aye. My mates, in the 1910 Expedition, + have forged yet a closer bond for our future sledge journeys. When + this cruel war is past, we trust that Priestley will join forces with + a relative of Debenham’s, while Wright and I have started anew on + life’s journey with Priestley’s sisters to help us in the traces! + + I shall, in all probability, never again see the Antarctic; but my + advice to any volunteer, who has that opportunity offered him, is to + take it. Especially is this the case if he be a scientist or writer, + for the present tendencies of modern life are all opposed to the + multiplication of such experiences. Only in Polar lands is to be found + the joy of a “real return to the primitive,” in association with the + best types of strenuous youth. There, if anywhere, is life worth + while, and effort sure of recognition. To few explorers is it given to + serve under a leader with Scott’s kindly sympathy for every detail of + his work; but after each and every expedition, the heavy cloud of + discomforts, dangers, and disaster gradually fades from memory, and + nought remains but the brightness of the silver lining. + +[Illustration: + + MAP OF THE REGION TRAVERSED ON THE WESTERN JOURNEYS 1911 AND 1912 FROM + SURVEYS BY GRIFFITH TAYLOR, B.Sc., B.E., B.A., F.G.S., FRANK + DEBENHAM, B.A., B.Sc., & CHARLES WRIGHT, B.A. + + EXPLANATORY NOTE + + _The Southern portion of the map is based on theodolite angles, the + Northern portion on plane-table angles. The Topography is drawn from + sketches, photographs, and aneroid readings. The upper Mackay region + and the Mount Lister scarp, are based on distant angles. The_ + “Discovery” _map has been incorporated for portion of the + Ferrar-Taylor area_. + + GRIFFITH TAYLOR 23.9.13. + + _The boundaries of the ice and rock in the Lister cairn are only + indicated approximately._ +] + + + + + APPENDIX + RECENT AND FUTURE EXPLORATION + + +[Illustration: + + Period 1898–1908 (based on H. R. Mill). +] + +[Illustration: + + Period 1908–1914 +] + + Recent and future exploration. + + + + + APPENDIX + + RECENT AND FUTURE EXPLORATION + + + Hugh Robert Mill has given a masterly account of Antarctic Exploration + in his work “The Siege of the South Pole.” He deals fully with the + voyages which took place before Shackleton’s great exploit. I have + found it so difficult myself to get a comprehensive idea of the later + expeditions that I have drawn the two charts shown herewith. If we + divide Antarctica into four quadrants (as shown in Fig. A) we see that + no expedition among the eleven charted has attacked the African + quadrant, and only two (Amundsen and Charcot) have explored the + Pacific quadrant. A survey of these maps shows that two great problems + as regards the sixth continent are still unsolved. First, Is there a + low-level, ice-covered strait connecting the floating Barrier seen by + Filchner in the Weddell Sea with that crossed by Amundsen south of the + Ross Sea? + + In a paper published by the Royal Geographical Society in October, + 1914, I have advanced arguments in support of this possibility. We + hope that Shackleton, in his forthcoming journey between Filchner’s + and Scott’s bases, will answer the question. + + The other problem deals with the character of Antarctica to the west + of Enderby Land, for the whole coast-line south of Africa is unknown. + One can only hope that some future leader following Mawson’s example + will set aside all idea of transcontinental journeys, and devote his + energies to detailed coastal surveys, which are infinitely more + profitable from the purely scientific standpoint. However, under + present political conditions there is little chance of any extensive + work succeeding Shackleton’s present enterprise until several years + have elapsed. + + I have, however, felt that it would be useful to collect the results + of my experiences in the Antarctic in so far as they touch details of + scientific equipment. These may be grouped under the following heads: + (1) Personnel; (2) Tents and Sledging Stoves; (3) Notebooks; (4) + Instruments; (5) Cameras; (6) Clothing; (7) Food. + + _Personnel._—It may be that I am prejudiced by training, but to my + mind these _coastal_ parties should consist essentially of geologists, + who must be capable of using theodolite and plane-table. The refined + knowledge of an expert navigator or surveyor is wasted in such a + journey, where only the lunch hour or evening halt is available for a + hurried “round of angles.” The recognition of topographic forms should + be a specialty of modern geologists, if they have had an adequate + physiographic training, and (again, _me judice_) this is more probably + found in the geologist than in the naval officer or professional + surveyor. + + It is unnecessary to point out that a biologist—whether botanist or + zoologist—would be wasted on such a journey. Most geologists, however, + have studied some botany and zoology, and are capable of collecting + such mosses and lichens, etc., as they may come across, and with a + little advice can make useful notes on the types and habits of the + fauna encountered. + + (I am not here referring to the _Plateau or Inland journeys_, where + the main essentials in an explorer are a knowledge of navigation on + trackless plains, such as naval men obviously possess to a high + degree, coupled with indomitable pluck and endurance, in which they + also have an unrivalled record.) + + Too little stress has been laid on ability to take successful + photographs and to make numerous sketches. The latter is + all-important. With practice quite valuable sketches can be made in + quarter of an hour, which are far ahead of any verbal description. + + Outside these qualifications nothing is so essential as a cheery + temperament. It is worth more than strong biceps, for the latter + develops _en route_, while humour has a tendency to become diluted + after four months’ stiff sledging. Certainly the latter is not an + ideal environment for its birth and growth. + + _Equipment for Scientific Coastal Exploration._—So far as the sledging + outfit is concerned, it would be difficult to improve on that provided + on Captain Scott’s Expedition. But I am sure that a dog team would + have enabled us to do twice as much work while along the coast. They + could, I feel sure, be left tethered at the coast for a week or so, + while inland journeys were made, with some provision of seal meat. + Probably they would eat all the food in the first few days, but in the + warmer summer months they could (and have been known to) exist without + food for many days after such a gorge. Seals are very abundant in + December, January, and February. For instance, in New Harbour we saw + two herds totalling about a hundred individuals. + + _Iron Runners_ were undoubtedly of immense assistance to the Northern + party on _sticky_ sea-ice. We tried them on rugged glacier ice and + they were useless, for they had no “grip” at all, and on any sort of + slope would not follow the traces, but simply slid down the “dip” of + the ice. + + _Tents._—The larger floorcloth was much preferable where many + instruments were carried. I should make it the full size of the + tentfloor and shut out all snow. In the ordinary pattern there was + over a foot margin inside the tent. A small tomahawk would be very + useful for cutting up seal meat. We had none. Also one of Priestley’s + small ice-picks would be well worth carrying if there were the + slightest risk of being abandoned, even for a month. The ice-axes were + not often used for their legitimate purpose of chipping steps. They + were certainly valuable as supports on the slippery glaciers, but + should have been stronger, even if it added a few pounds to the load. + + The _Blubber Stove_ was worth its weight in gold. It was made by Day, + of sheet iron, and was simply a rectangular box, 18 inches long, and + about 10 by 10 inches in cross section. A round hole (about 8 inches + in diameter) was cut in the top. A chimney of sheet iron, about 3 + inches diameter, was riveted in one end, and was about 4 feet high; + but we found that the length was not essential, as there was always + sufficient wind to make about 18 inches of chimney act. + + The only objection to Day’s pattern was the door, which occupied the + other end of the oven and was hinged at the top. It would have been + better if the opening had been stiffened and the door also, so that it + would shut readily, even when the oven was warped and dinted. + + More important still, there should have been a “sill” at least one + inch high to keep the blubber oil from all escaping from the floor of + the oven. We took a grid to carry the “fids” of blubber and asbestos + wicks, but they were unnecessary; the ashes from the burnt skin or + bits of bone acted as a suitable burning surface. We never needed to + “render” the blubber, but just fed it in its native state. This stove + must be completely sheltered from strong winds, and we built a granite + hut for its use. It cannot be used in the tent, for in spite of all + precautions it evolves the filthiest oily soot that ever disfigured + scientific notebooks. + + _Note-Books._—Plain good paper with linen-covered cardboard backs, + opening sideways, with a loop and pencil and rubber tied on with + string. Take four thin books (8 × 5 or so) rather than one thick one. + + For long panoramic sketches, fold down one inch of the right-hand page + and sketch over this fold, then the panorama can be sketched + continuously and to scale on the next pair of pages, and so on. + + An ordinary geological hammer of medium weight, a small cold chisel + (wrapped in canvas to prevent it sticking to you), and a stout + rucksack are essential. + + _Instruments._—The prismatic compass is almost useless for accurate + work in the magnetic area. Wright and I used two independently, and + found we differed about three or four degrees. This would not perhaps + matter for a very small area. The needle is extremely sluggish; but we + found them useful for route marching with thick snow falling, and one + should certainly be taken. + + The plane-table is the instrument _par excellence_. Debenham deserves + great credit for taking one south, for Captain Scott was extremely + sceptical as to their value on sledge journeys. In open country with a + prominent peak (as a referring object) in the line of + traverse—conditions such as one always gets in coastal work—the + plane-table was extremely rapid and enabled Debenham to do excellent + work each day. For details of the geology of a cape or cliff area the + plane-table is simply magnificent. + + A light theodolite (4-inch) was carried, of course, to tie on to + prominent distant peaks and for elevation and base-line measurements. + Latitude and longitude and sun azimuths were taken as checks on the + triangulation, which later in our journeys was tied on to Mount + Erebus. + + _Cameras._—We had large experience with these, Debenham taking + Ponting’s place when the latter returned. We carried Zeiss and Goerz + panorama-stereoscope cameras. They had two grave faults for southern + work. The rubber focal plane shutters froze stiff, and used to crawl + down and then stop halfway, when one wished to give ¹⁄₅₀ a second! + + Secondly, they were arranged for glass plates. In spite of advice + given me by Mawson and other photographers in the South, I am + convinced that a hundred films would give one ten times as many good + photos as _ten plates_, for plates get scratched and broken, and the + weight (the only important factor) is the same. When we went a long + side-tramp we always relied on the two _film_ cameras, and they + succeeded in producing many splendid photos, while the trouble of + changing plates at −20° F. (with your head inside a moulting fur + sleeping-bag) can be imagined by any one. For geologists I would + recommend the Goerz outfit with _front shutters_ and a film-pack + attachment. As it was, my exposures in a very expensive camera of this + type (guaranteed to give ¹⁄₁₅₀₀ of a second) were made by means of a + red cotton handkerchief presented to me by Charles Wright! + + For physiographic details, a stereoscopic camera is _sine qua non_; + for topographic work a panorama camera is essential; for lantern + slides a ¼ plate is advisable. The two cameras I have specified fulfil + all these conditions, and both have, of course, magnificent lenses. + + _Clothing._—No one altered the regulation rig very materially. The + geologists had to wear the strong corduroy trousers, which were hot + for sledging, because the rocks tore windproof to pieces. As it was, + mine were darned in fifty places with strong twine, and even so were + disintegrating when we were picked up. I did not carry my notebooks in + a case as Wilson preferred, for they slipped easily into the huge + pockets on the Wolsey knitted jacket. Aesthetics are perhaps out of + place when sledging, but some grey or brown colour would have been an + improvement on the white of these otherwise excellent jackets. The + white jackets soon gave us an even more filthy appearance than + necessary, and one sees too much snow and ice to appreciate white + clothing. A neutral colour would really have been a welcome object in + the view when sledging over the Barrier. + + _Boots_ were, however, the one article in which the expedition was + weak. We had all sorts of ski-boots made of fine supple leather, but + nothing shod with nails to resist the granite moraines of the western + area. When damp, the nails which we inserted soon pulled out of the + soft leather. Real workmen’s Bluchers—size 12 to accommodate four + pairs of socks—are advisable. The uppers might be made less stiff; but + one’s legs are swathed in putties, so that matters little. Perhaps + professional Alpine boots of the right size might suffice; but plenty + of spare spikes and nails should be taken. + + _Socks._—We took spare socks in our personal gear, but on the first + journey, owing to bad boots, we were always darning. On the second I + reinforced the heels of my outer socks with an oval patch of canvas + (about three inches long), and I never had to darn a pair. + + These trivialities bulk extremely large on a sledging trip, so that I + make no apology for mentioning them. + + _Crampons_ are illustrated in “Scott’s Last Expedition.” The canvas + tops acted admirably over the fur “finnesko.” I should prefer the + steel spikes to be even longer, and I should think they might be + screwed into the aluminium sole so that new spikes could be inserted. + They did not make the feet cold to any marked degree. + + For use with the leather boots I liked the 1902 type of _Steig-eisen_. + These were strapped under the instep, and enabled me to walk with + great ease on slippery glacier ice, though some of the men found they + hurt the feet considerably, and so preferred to risk numerous tumbles. + + _Food._—The regular ration of pemmican, biscuit and butter was grand, + and suited all our party. Chocolate, some flour for “thickers,” sugar, + tea and cocoa cannot be surpassed as the less important staples. I + should be inclined to issue a regular ration of simple condiments or + flavourings, especially if the party is going to live largely on seal + meat. Onion powder was worth its weight in gold, for we became very + tired of seal meat after several months. The latter is practically + tasteless (if it is not fishy!), but with onion powder, one did not + need a strong imagination to conjure up “steak and onions.” The meal + is often the only comfort when sledging, and these condiments weigh so + little that I think they might be issued. + + The Primus and cookers worked very well indeed. We had no trouble in + six months, part of which consisted of extremely rough glacier work, + which was calculated to jolt to pieces the anatomy of anything less + staunchly built than a Hjorth primus. + + + + + INDEX + + + Adare, Cape, Borchgrevinck’s winter quarters, 79; + Campbell’s party at, 439 + + Air, ionization of registered, 279 + + Alcove Camp, described, 133–134; + Evans’ “whisker stones,” 137; + return to, 145 + + Algæ deposits, 136, 155, 296 + + Alph Avenue, 173 + + Alph River, 170, 172, 173 + + Alps, glacial erosion in, 8, 9 + + Amphipods, 360 + + Amundsen, chances discussed, 432–433; + news of his success, 434; + Gran’s prophecy, 434–435; + charts of his and Scott’s parties, 439, 441 + + Anchor, ice, 60; + method of fixing (sketch), 421 + + “Ancient cups” (sketch), 256 + + Anemometer, described, 220, 222 + (sketch), 306 + + Antarctica, attraction of, 14; + ice erosion in, 14; + map showing recent expeditions, 37; + charts of recent and future exploration, 450; + personnel of coastal parties, 451; + notes on outfit, 452 _seq._ + + Anton, ignorance of English, 107; + accompanies Granite Harbour expedition, 332, 336, 339 + + Appetite when sledging, 124 + + Aptera, 381 + + Arch berg (sketch), 227; + photographed, 250 + + _Archeocyathinæ_, 256, 303; + Wright’s discovery of, 441 + + Arguments, in hut, 273–274 + + Armadillo Camp, 163 + + Armitage, Cape, _Discovery_ hut at, 189, + visited, 202–203 + + Arthropod, found, 303 + + Astronomy for travellers, 50–52 + + Atkinson, Dr. E. L., 4, 13; + his blubber stove, 63; + excavates _Discovery_ hut, 189; + institutes physical measurements, 225; + successes with fish trap, 240 241; + tests for scurvy, 245; + lecture on, 292–293; + meteor seen, 247; + lost in blizzard, 275 _seq._; + (sketch), 276; + landed at Hut Point, 422 + + Augites, on Observation Hill, 204; + at Flat Iron Rocks, 379 + + Aurora Australis, first seen, 203; + watch instituted, 226; + observation of, 231–232 + + Australian harbours, geology of, 23; + maps, 24 + + Avalanche Bay, 352 + + + Balleny Isles, 427 + + Balloon Meteorograph, described, 234; + (sketch), _ib._; + results obtained, 425 + + Barne, Cape, 85 + + Barne Glacier, cliff-like edge of, 88; + first crossing, 103 _seq._; + features of, 220; + movement noted, 322–323 + + Barrier, first sighted, 81; + height of, 82 + + Barrier shudder, 151, 313 + + Bath, on board _Terra Nova_, 45; + hot, 75, 416 + + Beacon Sandstone, 131; + worm burrows in, 148; + not of desert origin, _ib._; + debris, 385 + + Beardmore Glacier, fossils from, 10, + (sketches) 255, 256, 257, 444; + Taylor’s lecture on, 255; + sponge corals from, 256; + _Glossopteris_ from, 444 + + Beaufort Island, 85 + + Beaumont, Sir Lewis, gift of books, 283 + + Bernacchi, Cape, depôt, 341; + minerals found, 341; + camp at, 409 + + Bets, currency used, 163, 369 + + Bicycling, in Alps in winter, 4; + in Antarctica, 315, 316 + + Biological station at South Bay, 262 + + Bird, Mt., 334 + + Birds, catching, 55; + shooting, 61 + + Black Sand Beach, rolled pebbles on, 320 + + Blizzards, signs of, 157; + snow in, 158; + wind velocity, 251, 279, 293; + explorer in (sketch), 263; + higher temperatures during, 293, 295, 363 _seq._; + thick drift of, 294; + local nature of, 319 + + “Blizzometer,” 220, 222 + + Blubber, as food, 158, 176, 455; + fork for (sketch), 176 + + Blubber-lamp (sketch), 201 + + Blubber-stove, Dr. Atkinson’s, 63; + in _Discovery_ hut (sketch), 193; + at Cape Geology, 358; + difficulties of, 403; + value of, 453 + + Blue Glacier, snout examined, 153; + surroundings of, 154; + dangerous surface of, 411 + + Bonney, Lake, 8, 134, 136, 139, 145 + + Bonney, Professor, 8, 134 + + Bonney Riegel, 134, 136 + + Books, discussed, 50; + stock of, in hut, 282 + + Boots, damaged, 117, 128, 153; + sketch of worn, 154; + “browning” the, _ib._; + sealskin “brogans” for (sketch), 159; + cause sore heel, 169; + method of cobbling; 253; + Oates’ hobnails, 309; + crampons for, 322–323; + thawed, 333; + “ironclads,” 373; + (sketch), _ib._; + best type for Antarctica, 455 + + Borchgrevinck, winter at Cape Adare, 79 + + Botany Bay, 371 + + Bowers, Lieut. H. R., first meeting with, 9; + adrift on sea-ice, 197–198; + as geologist, 199; + lectures by, 250, 300; + Christmas tree, 268 seq.; + Cape Crozier expedition, 270, 285 _seq._; + Polar books read, 283; + provisions bagged, 294; + list of stores for Granite Harbour expedition, 332 + + Breadmaker, Clissold’s electrical (sketch), 216 + + Bruce, Lieut. Wilfred, 76 + + Buckle Island, 427 + + Burdens, various methods of carrying, 138 + + Butter Point, name and description, 117; + depôt, 120; + ice breaks up, 152; + Taylor’s camp at, 338; + depôt damaged by weather, 410 + + + Camera, “mousetrap,” 121, 289; + (sketch), _ib._, 296; + damaged by sun, 377. + _See also under_ Photography + + Campbell, V. L. A., independent command of, 6; + stores for Eastern Party, 66; + attempted relief of, 421, 423; + winter at Evans Coves, 442 + + Castle Rock, composition of, 186; + described, 206 + + Cathedral Rocks, appearance of, 127; + depôt at, 150 + + Catspaw Glacier, 132 + + Cavendish Icefalls, 148–149 + + _Cephalodiscus_, 418 + + “Chad,” Lake, 145 + + Chanties, 48 + + Charcot, Dr., 264, 451 + + Cheetham, 75 + + Cherry-Garrard, A., gifts to comrades, 13; + penguin skinning, 66; + adrift on sea-ice, 197–198; + editor of _South Polar Times_, 231, 233, 265 _seq._; + hut-building by, 262; + Cape Crozier expedition, 270, 285 _seq._ + + Chess, 271, 384, 400 + + Christchurch, N.Z., Expedition offices at, 23 + + Christmas on _Terra Nova_, 73–74 + + Cinematograph, tabular berg recorded, 59; + subjects for, 89; + football played for, 321 + + Cleveland Glacier, 384 + + Clissold, T., his electrical breadmaker (sketch), 216; + fall from iceberg, 316 + + Clothing, Antarctic, 6; + on _Terra Nova_, 36–37; + windproof, 120; + Wilson’s nose-guard, 262; + Bowers’ lecture on, 300 _seq._; + Taylor’s notes on, 454. + _See also under_ Boots, Socks, Goggles + + Clove hitch, with one hand (sketch), 163 + + Coal, loading of, 39–40; + found in Antarctica, 388, 392 + + “Cold Feet” stalactites, 287 + + Commonwealth Glacier, 143 + + Cook, Mt., and the Matterhorn, 25 _seq._ + + Cook, his duties on sledge journey, 121; + methods, 350–351 + + Copepods, in Polar seas, 74 + + Copper pyrites found, 309 + + Coral, sponge, from Beardmore Glacier (sketch), 256 + + Coral-reef surface, 121, 128 + + _Corethron_, staining of floes by, 74 + + Corner Camp, Evans’ journey to, 193 + + Course, the, 233 + + Crater Heights, origin of moraines on, 197 + + Crampons, 322–323, 455 + + Crevasses, 152, 353, 375, 406 + + Crow’s nest, 35–36 + + Crozier, Cape, desired as headquarters, 80; + visited by boat, 83; + midwinter expedition to, 271–272, 285 _seq._ + + Cuff Cape, 376 + + Current meter, 68 + + Cwms (armchair valleys), 127; + formation of, 136; + on Davis Glacier, 161; + on Mt. Lister, 167, 340; + theory of, 174 _seq._; + diagrams, 175 + + Cycle of life in Polar seas, 74–75, 83–84; + rhyme, 84 + + + Dailey Island, 177, 178 + + Danger Slope, 113, 186 + + David, Professor F. W. E., work under, 7; + advice by, 10; + letter by, found, 105, 120, 142, 257, 346, 416, 445 + + Davis Bay, 158 + + Davis Glacier, 161; + (sketch), _ib._ + + Davis, Professor W. M., 8, 160 + + Day, B. C., 9, 66, 85; + binding for _South Polar Times_, 254, 265; + lecture on motor sledges, 264; + ingenious turning, 307; + difficulties with motor sledges, 322 _seq._; + dangerous journey of, 440–441 + + Debenham, Frank, 11, 66; + visits Inaccessible Island, 95; + geological and photographic work, 119; + black lava found, 134; + as cook, 176, 350; + frostbitten, 179; + painting, 248; + collection of sixpenny novels, 283; + Cape Evans mapped, 295; + long-distance geology, 307; + Tent Island explored, 311, 316; + trip to Shackleton’s hut, 319 _seq._; + knee strained, 321; + excellent sight of, 369; + coal found, 388; + value of plane-table, 453 + + Debris cones, 296, 297, 385 + + Demetri, 91 + + Dennistoun, Mr. J., 416, 424 + + Descent Pass, 127, 130, 151 + + Devil’s Punch Bowl, and Thumb, sketch-map of region, 376; + features of, 378 + + Dewdrop Glacier, 378 + + Diatoms, 74 + + _Discovery_, pack crossed, 78 + + Discovery Bluff, 371 + + _Discovery_ Hut, condition of, 106; + compared with Shackleton’s hut, 113; + described, 189 _seq._; + environs of (sketch), 190; + plan of (sketch), 191; + difficult approach to, 192; + blubber stove at (sketch), 193; + routine at, 194; + literature at, 195; + storm at, 196; + sleeping quarters, 198; + sunsets at, 199; + Scott’s visit to, 216, 223. + _See also under_ Hut Point + + Distances deceptive, 150 + + Dogs, Antarctic born, recognise water, 10; + put on board _Terra Nova_, 30; + hangar for on ship, 46; + character of, 52, 281, 290; + exercised on floes, 69; + and penguins, 69, 88, 91; + and seals, 116, 332; + “rifle-pits” for, at Hut Point, 193; + “Macaca” found, 260; + puppies born, 290 + + Dog-sledging, 91; + Scott, 106; + Taylor, 115 + + Dog-teams, Peary’s use of, 9; + guided by voice, 69, 91, 116 + + Dolerite sills, 131 + + Double Curtain Glacier, 125–126 + + Drake, F. R. H., 66, 428 + + Dry Valley, 9, 130, 132, 142 _seq._; + Lt. Evans’ chart of, 280 + + Dun Glacier, 131 + + Dunlop Island, minerals found on, 309; + features of, 344 + + + Earth, shape deduced, 272, 279 + + England, Mt., 380 + + Erebus, Mt., compared to Vesuvius, 85; + appearance of steam cloud on, 88, 218, 281 + (sketch), _ib._; 295, 325, 346; + crevasses on, 189; + signs of heat from, 217; + activity of, 288 + + Erosion: frost, 380: + glacial, study of in Alps, 8–9, 14; + problem in Antarctica, 14–15; + in New Zealand Alps, 23–29, 120, 132; + stages of, 133; + wind action, 134, 145; + on Taylor Glacier, 136; + no lateral in Antarctica, 148; + on Mackay Glacier, 377: + water, 138, 159; + at Tent Island, 311 + + Erratic (sketch), 387 + + Euchre, 302 + + Euphausia, 63, 65, 75 + + Evans, Cape, named, 86; + site described, 87, 215; + sketch of, 90; + landing at, 89 _seq._; + lakes at, 87, 215; + plan of hut at, 212; + music at, 223; + magnetic variation at, 261; + pull of gravity at, 279; + physiographic features of, 298 _seq._; + map of, 299; + ice-forms at, 310–311; + _Terra Nova’s_ return to, 418 + + Evans Coves, 439, 441 + + Evans, Lieut. E. R. G. R., 6, 9; + journey to Corner Camp, 193; + chart of Dry Valley, 280; + coast survey by, 295; + trip to first depôts, 313; + attacked by scurvy, 421, 442 + + Evans, Edgar, P.O., 5, 137; + “Football Fields” named, 139; + straw hat, 145; + a fall, 148; + former expedition, 151; + and literature, 151, 284, 302; + on Blue Glacier, 153; + humour of, 153, 157; + one-handed clove-hitch, 163; + as steersman, 165; + loses a bet, 171; + imaginary frostbite, 182; + on blizzards, 185; + prudence of, on Danger Slope, 186; + lessons in cobbling given, 253; + (sketch), _ib._; + as bezique player, 259 + + Eyes, effect of Antarctica on, 49 + + + Felspar, from Erebus, sketch of, 145 + + Fern, sketch of fossil, from Beardmore Glacier, 444 + + Ferrar Glacier, former accident on, 75; + explored, 121–131; + surface altered since 1902, 129; + movement of, 151, 202, 309; + shape of ice at mouth of, 257–258; + Scott’s trip to, 304, 309 + + Ferrar, Mr. H. T., on ice-slabs, 162 + + First View Point, 349 + + “First Western Expedition,” 113 _seq._ + + Fish, caught by floe, 70; + _Notothenia_, 97; + in ice, 180,202; + remains of, on glacier, 164, 165; + trap for, 240–241; + parasites in _Notothenia_, 241; + caught, 251; + fossils of, found, 386 + + _Flagellata_, at Cape Evans, 215 + + Flat Iron, 377; + unusual minerals on, 379; + survey of, and composition, 392 + + Flea, primitive, 125 + + Food, biscuit packing, 119; + allowance on sledge journeys, 335; + cooking of, 350–351; + suggestions for, 455; + + Football in Antarctica, 236, 238, 247; + for cinematograph, 321 + + “Football Fields,” 139 + + Forde, R., P.O., attacked by gangrene, 313, 331; + cave discovered, 352; + reservoir constructed, 354, + (sketch), _ib._; + as seal butcher, 355; + as cook, 360; + and literature, 363; + snow-blindness, 408 + + Foraminifera (_Orbulina_), 68, 74 + + Fossils, from Beardmore Glacier, 10, 255 _seq._; + sketches of, 255–257; + on Gondola Ridge, 386 + + Frostbite, pain of, 116; + Taylor’s toe, 202; + Forde’s hand, 313, 331 + + + Games in Antarctica, 271. + _See also_ Football, Euchre, Chess + + Geology, Cape, blubber stove at, 358; + view from (sketch), 374 + + George, Lake, rain gauge in, 240 + + Glacial erosion. _See_ Erosion + + Glacier Tongue, nature of, 113; + bulbous icicles on, 117; + sea-ice broken away from, 189; + broken fragments from, 309, 342; + features of, 315; + waved edge of (sketch), 316 + + Glaciers, of New Zealand visited, 25 _seq._; + map, 27; + of Antarctica, organic remains on, 127, 177; + tables, 132; + twin, 130, 149; + in Luzern valley + (sketch), _ib._; + movement measured, 151, 202, 309 + + Glasson, 7 + + Glenroy, parallel roads of, 160, 296 + + Globigerina ooze, 75 + + _Glossopteris_ from Beardmore Glacier (sketch), 444 + + Gneiss Point, 342 + + Goggles, fogging of, 335; + benefit of amber glasses, 369 + + Gold, washing for, 145 + + “Golden Stairs,” 233 + + _Gomphocephalus_, found at Granite Harbour, 356 + (sketch), _ib._; + Lillie’s catch of, 418 + + Gondola Ridge, 384; + fish fossils on, 386; + sketch of, 391 + + Gramophone records, at Cape Evans, 265 + + Gran, Lieut. Tryggve, former experiences, 13; + as ski expert, 68, 69; + and white magic, 76; + ice caves discovered, 230; + guesses at _South Polar Times_ authors, 278; + debris cones dissected, 297; + ski slope constructed, 312; + birthday present to Taylor, 357; + as cook, 357; + latitude and longitude, simple method of calculating, 357; + sea-kale planted, 370; + golden mica found, 377; + midsummer bathe in open air, 378; + as surgeon, 379; + Mt. Suess circumnavigated, 388; + birthday ode, 401; + prophecy of Amundsen’s success, 434–435 + + Granite, on Dunlop Island, 309 + + Granite Harbour, expedition to 321, 331 _seq._; + Bowers’ list of stores for 332; + reached, 348; + seals at, 353; + pressure ridges in sea-ice (sketch), 361 + + Gravity, pull of, at Cape Evans, 279 + + Grummets, 409 + + Gully Bay, algæ deposits above, 296 + + + Hair clipping, 38 + + Harbours, Australian, geology of, 23; + maps, 24 + + Hat, straw, 146 + + Heald Island, 167–169 + + Hedley Glacier, 131 + + Hjort’s Hill, 409 + + Hobbs Glacier, 158–159 + + Hooker Glacier, 28; + + Horses, Oates’ lectures on, 246–247. + _See also under_ Ponies + + Hut, building of, 98 _seq._; + map of locality, 107; + life at, _ib._; + interior arrangement of, 108 + + Hut Point, geological sketch of, 114–115; + arrival at, 186; + seals killed at, 192; + wind at, 196; + difficult approach to, 192; + telephone to, 319. + _See also under_ _Discovery_ Hut. + + + Ice, pack: met, 58; + scene in, 60; + width of, 76, 78; + pressure blocks, 77; + map of course through, 77 + + Ice problems, Wright’s lecture on, 248 + + Ice-age, future (sketch), 281 + + Ice-anchor, 60; method of fixing (sketch), 421 + + Icebergs: the first, 56; + origin of various kinds, 56, 59; + watch for, 57, 64, 75, 427; + effect of wind on, 59; + sketches of, 64; + a white-back, 70, 71; + Tunnel berg, 96, + (sketch), 97; + mistaken for islands, 345; + various shapes of, 347; + flexure of (sketch), 403 + + Ice-forms: pancake, 58, 60, 77; + sunholes, 93 + (sketch), _ib._; 121; + coral-reef surface, 121, 128; + topsy-turvy icicles, 124; + fan crystals, 124, 128; + arabesques, 126, 132, 291; + plough-share, 128, 148, 162; + thumb marks, 148; + ice-falls, 148, 149; + slabs, 155, 162; + bottle-glass, 156, 384; + glass-house, 156, 157, 162, 384; various, 163; + armadillo, 163; frozen park, 164; + honeycomb, 165; + Stonehenge, 168; + stalactites, 170; + caves formed by crevasses, 230; + at Cape Evans, 310–311; + crystals, 288–289; + screw-pack, 338–339 + + Ice-houses, 101, (sketch), 102 + + Inaccessible Island, visited, 95, 287; + direction of blizzards on, 294; + wind-ridge on (sketch), 294 + + Infusoria, 74 + + Instruments, value of various, 453–454 + + Invertebrates, Nelson’s lecture on, 303 + + Ionization of the air, registered, 279 + + Island Lake, 233 + + + “Jam-jar,” 128 + + _Jeannette_, 283 + + + Kar Plateau, 365; + granite cliffs (sketch), 375 + + Kea Point, 28 + + Keerweer Camp, 179 + + Kenyte, 87; + felspar in, 145; + on Land’s End moraine, 291; + at Cape Bernacchi, 309 + + Killer-whales, attacks on men, 75, 95, 152; + on ponies, 198 + + Knob Head Mountain, features of, 149; + magnetic variation at, 261 + + Koettlitz Glacier, moraine deposit from, 160; + explored, 167–173; + stream from, 168 + + Kukri Hills, 127; + coaly debris, 134; + Wales Glacier named, 143; + age of rocks, 146–147; + cwm valleys on, 340; + camp below, 409 + + + Lacroix Glacier, 140, + (sketch), _ib._, 162 + + Lakes, at Cape Evans, 87; + _Flagellata_ in, 215 + + Land’s End, features of, 230; + named, 233 + + Lashley, W., former experiences, 75; + Polar journey, 442 + + Lateral moats. _See_ Moats + + Latitude and longitude, simple method of calculating, 357 + + Lectures, list of winter, 229 + + Levick, Dr. G. M., 49; + and seal-killing, 120; + penguin studies, 439 + + Lichens, at Cape Geology, 360, 387 + + Lillie, D. G., former adventures, 7; + caricatures by, 65; + collections made, 418 + + Lister, Mt., 127 + + Literature, on sledge journeys, 151. + _ See also under_ Books + + Lots, novel method of drawing, 357 + + Luzern, Lake, formed by twin glaciers, 130, 149 + + Lyons, Capt. H. G., 447 + + Lyttelton, reached, 11, 21; + geology of, 23; + experiences at, 23; + return to, 435 + + + Mackay Glacier, 348, 353; + ice tongue, 359, 365; + tongue movement measured, 373, 375, 395; + erosion on, 377; + journey over, 382 _seq._ + + Mackellar, Mr., gift of books, 283 + + McMurdo Sound, 85 + + Magic, white, 76 + + Magnetic needle, dip calculated, 261 + + Magnetic variation. _See_ Variation + + Marble Cape, 342 + + Marine animals in sea-ice, 177 + + Markham, Sir Clements, gift of books, 283 + + Marr, Dr., 3 + + Matterhorn, 25 _seq._; + the Antarctic, 25; + described, 145 + + Mawson, Dr., 5, 7, 9 + + Meares, C. H., dogs and ponies collected, 11; + and dog sledges, 69; + penguin-charmer, 72; + return from Hut Point, 245; + Barrier journey, 440–441 + + Melbourne, Mt., 418 + + Meteorograph, balloon. _See_ Balloon + + Meteorology, Simpson’s lecture on, 288; + station routine, 305 + + Mica, golden, found, 377 + + Microscopic life, 74 + + Midnight sun. _See_ Sun + + Midwinter Day celebrations, 264 _seq._ + + Mill, Hugh Robert, 451 + + Mirabilite, 155; + evidence of upheaval, _ib._ + + Moats, lateral, 126, 134, 147, 377; + measured, 147–148 + + Monteagle, Mt., 79 + + Moraines, medial, 146, 387; + silt, 155, 156; + crater lakes in, 156; + on Crater Heights, origin of, 197; + Gondola Ridge, 386–387; + “road metal,” 410; + Strand, 410; + Archæocyathine fossil in, 441 + + _Morning_, voyage of, 58; + pack crossed, 78 + + Morse Code, key-words, 35 + + Mosses, at Cape Geology, 360, 393 + + Motor-sledges. _See under_ Sledges + + Mueller Glacier, 28 + + Murchison Glacier, 26 + + Music, on _Terra Nova_, 48; + at Cape Evans, 223, 254 + + + Nansen, Mt., 418 + + Natrolite, found, 379 + + Nelson, E. W., 7; + tow-net captures, 65; + soundings at Cape Evans, 249; + biological station, 262; + “star performer” at games of skill, 271; + propensity to argument, 273; + sounding tackle frozen in, 293; + lecture on invertebrates, 303; + accompanies Granite Harbour expedition, 332, 336, 339 + + New Glacier, 377; + erosion on, 380–381 + + New Harbour, crossed, 340; + signs of 1902 expedition, 409 + + New Year’s Day on _Terra Nova_, 79 + + New Zealand Alps, ice conditions in, 23–29 + + Nicknames of the officers, 213 + + _Nimrod_, 21 + + North Bay, 233 + + _Notothenia_, in ice, 97, 180, 202, 203; + eye lens, 98; + parasites in, 241 + + “Nursery,” the, 46, 66 + + Nussbaum, Dr., 9 + + Nussbaum, Mt., 143 + + + Oates, Capt. L. E. G., 13, 66; + sackcloth helmet (sketch), 200; + bunk built by, 227; + lectures on horses, 246–247; + taste in literature, 283, 284; + departure on Southern Journey, 326 + + Observation Hill, telephone to, 101; + Scott’s cross on, 113; + augite crystals on, 204 + + Ocean soundings. _See_ Soundings + + Officers, travels of, 242; + maps, 12; + list of, 15 _seq._; + nicknames of, 213; + musical abilities, 223; + physical measurements of, 225, 248; + occupations in the hut, 248–249; + list of returning, 424; + presented to King George, 446 + + _Orca gladiator._ _See_ Killer-whales + + Organic remains on glacier, 127 + + Overflow Glacier, 127, 128 + + + Pack ice. _See under_ Ice + + “Paddock,” the, 233 + + Palimpsest theory of glacial valleys, 174 _seq._; + diagrams, 175 + + Parasites in _Notothenia_, 241 + + Park Lane Camp, 164 + + Parties, list of, 15 _seq._ + + Paton, 75, 85 + + Peary, Commander, lecture by, 9 + + Pendulums, ice grotto for, 278–279; + show pull of gravity, 279 + + Penguins: Adelie, first seen, tricks of, 64; + Emperor, first seen, 71; + contents of stomach, 71; + frozen in, 82; + on Ferrar Glacier, 127–128; + hardness of bones, 128; + swimming, 154; + at Cape Crozier, 271, 286; + eggs examined, 325; + hunting on floes, 72; + appearance of swimming, 85; + spoor of (sketch), 94; + Wilson’s lecture on, 244–245 + + Pennell, Lieut. H. L. L., 34, 66, 76, 423 + + Perched Block (sketch), 387 + + Pets on _Terra Nova_, 53, 428 + + Photography, in field work, 119; + Taylor’s outfit, 224; + Antarctic, 224, 452. + _See also under_ Camera + + Physical measurements of officers, 225, 248 + + Piedmont Glacier, 152 seq., 342, 345, 405 + + Ponies, landing of, 89; + “Hackenschmidt,” 89, 100; + “Blücher,” 101; + “Guts,” 101; + “Weary Willy,” 101; + lost on sea-ice, 197–198; + Oates’ lectures on, 246–247; + verminous, 278; + arrangement of on Southern Journey, 325 + + Ponting, H. G., 11, 70; + and killer-whales, 95; + and Tunnel berg, 96; + work at Cape Evans, 214, 215, 250; + lecture on Burmah, 242; + cinematograph films exhibited, 282; + lantern slides exhibited, 295; + coaches Scott and Bowers in photography, 304; + successful studies obtained, 440 + + Port Chalmers, 35 + + Potholes, 282, 383 + + Pram (Norwegian dinghy), 61, 62, 72 + + Pram Point, 202 + + Prestrud (Amundsen’s lieutenant), 440 + + Priestley, R. E., 10, 85; + old footprints of, found, 286; + ice-notes, 439 + + Pulpit Rock (sketch), 370 + + Pumps, choked in storm, 42; + plan of, _ib._ + + + Quartz found, 309 + + “Quick runs,” in magnetic work, 261 + + + Ramp, the, named, 233; + origin of debris cones on, 296; + cones dissected, 297, + (sketch), _ib._; + composition of, 298 + + Range-finder for icebergs, 46, 57 + + Referring Facet, 384 + + Rennick, Lieut. H. E. de P., 4, 34, 66, 76 + + Riegels, 134, 136, 141, 143 + + Roberts, Cape, features of, 399; + camp at, 400 _seq._; + depôt left at, 406 + + Rocks, age of (sketch), 147; + sedimentary, near Taylor Glacier, 141; + solitary, 132–133, 147 + + Ross Island, sketch-map, 81; + survey of, 85; + _Discovery_ hut on, 189 + + Round Valley, 144–145 + + Royal Society Range, 127 + + Royds, Cape, Shackleton’s hut at, 105–106; + Taylor’s visit to, 260 + + + Sabine, Mt., 79 + + Sails, Bay of, 343 + + Salmon Peak, 160 + + Schizopods, 75 + + Science men as seamen, 35, 424 + + _Scotia_, 46 + + Scott, Captain R. F., 4; + first impressions of, 5; + old adventure on Ferrar Glacier, 75; + visits Hut Point, 106; geological sketch of Hut Point, 114; + facsimile of sledging orders, 122–123; + One Ton depôt laid, 189; + variety of interests, 196; + journey to Cape Evans, 207 _seq._; + takes party to _Discovery_ hut, 216, 223; + Sunday services at Cape Evans, 225; + institutes aurora watch, 226; + main features of winter quarters named, 233; + lecture on Plans of the Expedition, 241–242; + belief in discussions, 248; + discussion on Ferrar Glacier, 257–258; + speech at Midwinter Day dinner, 268; + Taylor Glacier named, 280; + taste in literature, 283, 325; + trip to Ferrar Glacier, 304, 309; + Taylor’s summer plans discussed, 311; + Taylor’s sledging orders, 321; + departure on Southern Journey, 325; + charts of his and Amundsen’s parties, 439, 441, 442; + hardest day’s work, 440; + reason of disaster to, 443–444 + + Scurvy, Atkinson’s tests for, 245; + his lecture on, 292–293; + Lt. Evans attacked by, 421, 442 + + Sea, winter temperature of, 262 + + Seal Rock, 233 + + Seals, crab-eater, 62–63, 65; + flensing, 63, 358; + killing, first experiences, 116, 120; + twenty miles up glacier, 141, 167–168; + lassoed, 155; + killed at Hut Point, 192, 196; + method of enlarging ice-holes, 317, + (sketch), _ib._; + and dogs, 116, 332; + at Gneiss Point, 342; + at Granite Harbour, 353; + method of butchering, 355; + meat as substitute for pemmican, 360 + + Sedimentary Rocks. _See_ Rocks + + Seward, Professor, 3, 444 + + Shell, found on Ferrar Glacier, 125 + + Simpson, Dr. G. C., 5, 13, 66; + meteorological instruments, 221; + balloons sent up, 234 + (sketch), _ib._; + lectures by, 236, 288; + magnetic work, 261; + return of sun first seen, 295; + value of weather records, 440 + + _Siphonophora_, 262 + + Sketching, Wilson’s lecture on, 251–253; + value of, in Antarctica, 452; + notebooks for, 453 + + Ski, 68, 293 + + Ski-ing, learning on the floes, 69; + on Erebus slopes, 103 + + Skua gulls, mode of killing, 11, 100; + young learning to fly, 179; + quarrelsome nature of, 355, 399; + eggs obtained, 372, 378; + sketch of embryo, 373; + signs of intellect in, 380 + + Skua Lake, 233 + + Sledge diary, 181 _seq._ + + Sledge-flags, 49, 73 + + Sledge foods, Bowers’ lecture on, 250 + + Sledges, loads of, on First Journey, 117–119; + steel runners for, 119, 452; + motor, 91; + loss of, 99 _seq._; + Day’s lecture on, 264; + difficulties with, 322 _seq._ + + Sledging, stores, how calculated, 53; + weights carried, 54; + literature carried, 151; + facsimile of orders, 122–123; + food allowance, 335; + cooking, 350–351 + + Slippery Slope, 233, 296 + + Smith, Mr. Reginald J., gift of books, 50, 283 + + Snow, as thirst quencher, 373 + + Snow-blindness, 408 + + Snow Valley, 116, 169, 173 + + Socks, patent heel-tip (sketch), 308, 455 + + Soil-creep (solifluxion), 115, 300, 388 + + Sollas Glacier, 139, 162 + + Solitary Rocks. _See_ Rocks + + Soundings, depth of ocean, 61, 79; + apparatus (sketch), 67; + off glacier mouths, 120; + off Cape Evans, 249 + + South American Glacier, 131 + + South Bay, named, 233; + biological station at, 262 + + _South Polar Times_, Wilson’s sketches, 156; + resumed, 231; + Day’s binding for, 254; + volumes produced, 265 _seq._, 302–303, 317; + guesses at authors, 270, 303 + + Spiders, sea-, 303 + + “Sponge-coral” (sketch), 256 + + Sponges, in the ice, 177, 180 + + Springtail, Antarctic. _See_ _Gomphocephalus_ + + Stalactites, how formed, 287 + + Stamps, surcharged, 80 + + Steig-eisen (sketch), 197 + + Stocking Glacier, 28, 132 + + Storm, on outward voyage, 40–44; + on homeward voyage, 428–432 + + Strand moraines, 410 + + Straw hat, 146 + + Suess Glacier, and sketch, 141–142 + + Suess, Mt., 362; + nunatak (sketch), 383; + map, 385; + circumnavigated, 388, + (sketch), 389 + + Sun, midnight, 59; + lowest point of, calculated, 269, + (sketch), _ib._; + return of, celebrated, 294; + first seen, 295 + + Sun-holes, 93, 121 + + Sunshine recorder, sketch of, 306 + + Swinging ship. _See_ _Terra Nova_ + + + Tasman Glacier, 26; + sketch of, 27 + + Taylor, Griffith: official position, 7; + a walker, 7, 10; + visit to Alps, 8, 9; + survey work in Australia, 10; + his problem in Antarctica, 14; + bowie knife disturbs compass, 34; + midnight watch, 59; + retrieves fish from floe, 70; + sledge work on landing, 92; + visits Inaccessible Island, 95 + FIRST WESTERN JOURNEY, 111 _seq._; + a geologist’s equipment, 144; + washes for gold, 145; + fall into “moat,” 147; + dreams, 150, 182; + adventure among crevasses, 152; + lassoes a seal, 155; + a week’s cooking, 165–166; + flooded out, 174; + unfulfilled prophecy, 177; + sledge diary, 181 _seq._; + hallucination, 185 + A MONTH IN DISCOVERY HUT, 189 _seq._; + visits Crater Heights, 197; + cook, 200, 202; + dreams, 201; + frostbite, 202; + fall into sea-ice, 205; + journey to Cape Evans, 207 _seq._ + IN WINTER QUARTERS, 211 _seq._; + plan of hut, 212; + first aurora seen, 218; + report on Western Journey, 219; + musical abilities, 223; + photography, 224, 296; + ice caves visited, 230; + night watchman, 231, 243, 264; + main features of winter quarters named, 233; + lectures by—on principles of physiography, 238–239; + on Beardmore Glacier, 255; + on physiography of Western Mountains, 270; + on glaciation, 295; + on corals, 303; + list of officers’ travels, 242–243; + physical measurements, 225, 248; + articles for _South Polar Times_, 241, 243, 287, 288, 312, 318; + hut routine, 247–249; + chart of mean temperatures, 255; + visit to Cape Royds, 260; + speech at Midwinter Day dinner, 268; + sun’s lowest point calculated, 269; + competition with Gran, 270; + chess, 271; + hut arguments, 273–274; + dreams, 277–278, 287; + night-watch supper (sketch), 274; + “jam day,” 279; + Taylor Glacier named, 280; + Erebus steam cloud sketched, 281; + books read, 283–284; + book-binding, 293; + Cape Evans mapped, 295, 298 _seq._; + plane-table improvised, 295; + debris cones dissected, 297; + Wilson’s caricature of, 301; + meteorological work undertaken, 303, 305; + “patent heel-tips,” 308; + Tent Island visited, 311, 317; + summer plans discussed with Scott, 311; + bicycling to Turk’s Head, 314–315; + trip to Shackleton’s hut, 319 _seq._; + sledging orders for Granite Harbour expedition, 321; + Barne Glacier traversed, 322–323; + last impressions of Gates and Wilson, 326–327 + GRANITE HARBOUR EXPEDITION, 329 _seq._; + sledges packed, 331; + Bowers’ list of stores, 332; + blizzards met, 333, 335, 362 _seq._; + magnetic variation, 337, + steering on the march, 337; + Butter Point reached, 338; + relaying, 339; + survey, 340; + ice yacht, 342–343; + dreams, 342, 364; + night marching, 345; + Granite Harbour reached, 348; + View Point camp, 349; + foods on sledge journey, 350–351; + cave discovered, 352; + cloud effects, 353; + water supply, 354; + seal hoosh, 355; + _Gomphocephalus_ found, 356; + birthday of, 356; + adventures on sea-ice, 366; + benefit of goggles, 369; + finger cut, 371, 376, 379; + snow as thirst quencher, 373; + value of “ironclad” boots, 373; + Mackay Tongue movement measured 373, 375; + unusual minerals found, 379; + Christmas Day celebrations, 380; + insects embalmed, 381; + journey over Mackay Glacier, 382 _seq._; + peaks and glaciers named, 384; + fish fossils found, 386; + Mt. Suess circumnavigated, 388; + Mackay Glacier movement measured, 395; + return journey begun, 396; + fall into sea, 397; + as “sledge poet,” 398, 401; + Cape Roberts camp, 400 _seq._; + _Terra Nova_ seen, 402; + crevasses met, 406 _seq._; + snow-blindness, 408; + picked up by _Terra Nova_, 411 + THE VOYAGE BACK, 413 _seq._; + gifts from home, 415–416; + gale off Cape Evans, 418–419; + “luff upon luff” (sketch), 420; + coal-trimming, 424–425, 433; + cables for Associated Press prepared and despatched, 427, 433; + “iceberg watch,” 427, 428; + record gale, 428–432; + sperm whales seen, 433; + Akaroa reached, 434 + THE END OF THE EXPEDITION, 437 _seq._; + _résumé_ of journeys of other parties, 439 _seq._; + books sent to remaining members of Expedition, 445; + presented to King George, 446; + allocation of funds, 446 + APPENDIX, 449 _seq._; + paper published by Royal Geographical Society, 451; + lessons of Antarctic experiences, 451 _seq._ + + Taylor Glacier, 132–138; + sketch of moraine on, 135; + wind action on, 136; + crater near, 136, (sketch), 137; + previous visit to, 139; + and valley, 141; + named by Scott, 150, 280 + + Telephones, 101, 103, 294, 315, 319, 326 + + Temperature, of sea in winter, 262; + of hut, 263, (sketch), _ib._; + high during blizzards, 293, 295, 363 _seq._; + snow melted, 305; + heat of solar rays, 345 + + Tent, advantage of wider floorcloth for, 333, 452 + + Tent Island, 286; + features of, 311; + seals at, 317 + + _Terra Nova_, 6, 21; + voyage to New Zealand, 11; + plans of, 22, 39; + leak stopped, 30; + arrangement of, 30 _seq._; + swinging ship, 34, 46, 80; + storms, 40 _seq._, 428 _seq._; + dinner on, 46; + icing ship, for fresh water, 61, 421, 422; + Pennell’s notice, 423 _n._; + Christmas on, 73–74; + returning officers, 76; + sketch of course through pack, 77; + landing at Cape Evans, 87 _seq._; + stranded, 108; + picks up Taylor’s party, 411; + return voyage of March, 1912; + map, 414; + “rocking ship,” 417; + gale off Cape Evans, 418–419; + anchor raised by “luff upon luff” (sketch), 420; + coal-trimming, 424–425, 433; + Akaroa reached, 434 + + Terror, Mt., 346 + + Tesselations, 158, 160 + + Thermometer screens, erected, 272; + names for, _ib._ + + Thomson, Alan, 10 + + Travels of the officers. _See_ Officers + + Tremolite found, 379 + + Turk’s Head, 113; + features of, 314, 315 + + Twin Glaciers, sketch of, 280 + + + _Universitas Antarctica_, 228 + + + Variation, magnetic, 80, 337; + at Cape Evans and Knob Head Mountain, 261 + + Vegetation, three types found, 125; + algæ, 136, 155, 296; + mosses, 125, 360, 393; + lichens, 360, 387 + + Vince’s Cross, 113 + + “Virtue Villa,” 191 + + + Walcott Glacier, 169 + + Wales Glacier, 143 + + Ward Glacier, 169, 171–172 + + Weather, local types of, 426; + value of Simpson’s records, 440. + _See also_ Blizzards, Temperature, Wind. + + Whales, 69, 433. + _See also_ Killer-whales + + Whales, Bay of, chart, 432 + + “Whisker-stone,” 137 + + Wilson, Dr. E. A., 3, 13, 65, 66; + penguin hunting, 72; + on tone-values, 199; + truth of his sketches, 199, 203; + lectures by, 235, 244–245, 251–253; + sketch of nose-guard, 262; + Cape Crozier expedition, 270, 285 _seq._; + caricature of Taylor (sketch), 298; + his kindness, 304; + “Barrier Silence” poem written, 313; + Emperor penguin eggs examined, 325; + departure on Southern Journey, 325 + + Wind, tolerable without snow, 144; + at Hut Point, 196; + changes in direction (sketch), 217; + record velocity, 279; + maximum velocity of winter, 293 + + Windproof clothing. _See_ Clothing + + Wind Vane Hill, 233 + + Winter Quarters, main features named, 233 + + Worm burrows in sandstone, 148 + + Wright, C. S., 3, 7, 66; + work on ice crystals, 119, 134; + Kukri Hills visited, 147; + judging distances, 150; + fall into crevasse, 152; + Davis Glacier examined, 161; + and seals, 173; + journey to Corner Camp, 193; + lecture on ice problems, 248; + time observations, 272; + pendulums, 278–279; + ice-section “rubbings,” 282; + diary entries, 289; + _Archæocyathine_ fossil found, 441 + + Wyatt, Mr. G. F., 31 + + + THE END + + + PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED. LONDON AND BECCLES. + +----- + +Footnote 1: + + My thanks are due to the Editor of the _Melbourne Argus_ for + permission to reprint this section. + +Footnote 2: + + The theory of _nivation_ would be out of place here. It is explained + in Hobbs’ “Existing Glaciers,” and I deal with it fully in the + official memoir. + +Footnote 3: + + These tracks were made by the Rescue party, in their attempts to + save the ponies, ten days earlier. + +Footnote 4: + + The other parties had all returned from the Barrier a fortnight + before to Hut Point. + +Footnote 5: + + His meteorology was incorrect. + +Footnote 6: + + In the coldest weather the helmet covers the chin and a nose-nip + protects the nose. + +Footnote 7: + + The waist measurement caused great amusement. Evans and I were + measured first, with the result above recorded. Wilson came next and + basely proceeded to constrict “little Mary” to an incredible extent, + so that he had apparently five inches less corporation than Evans + and myself. Every one else followed suit, and many were the jeers at + our expense. However, I got Gran to measure me according to Wilson’s + method, and dropped to 30¾ with ease! + +Footnote 8: + + Our local time (which we did not use), corresponding to our + longitude 166° E., was 11 hours 5 minutes 46 seconds before + Greenwich. Hence it was midwinter at 1.30 on Friday morning of the + 23rd by _local_ time. This experience of ours was a very practical + trial of the Daylight Saving Bill. We used to feel very virtuous + when we turned out at 7.30 by our chronometer while sledging, as we + realized that it was really 6.30 a.m. + +Footnote 9: + + Scott’s motto was, “Stretched Wings towards the South.” + +Footnote 10: + + Until the ship is able to ice ship again no water is to be used for + the purpose of washing clothes.—HARRY PENNELL, Lieutenant. + +Footnote 11: + + See sketch, p. 42. + +Footnote 12: + + Brissenden, one of the seamen, was drowned in New Zealand. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES + + + ● Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + ● Renumbered footnotes and moved them all to the end of the final + chapter. + ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. + ● The caret (^) is used to indicate superscript, whether applied to a + single character (as in 2^d) or to an entire expression (as in + 1^{st}). + ● Subscripts are shown using an underscore (_) with curly braces { }, + as in H_{2}O. + ● Images without captions use HTML alt text. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78731 *** |