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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78645 ***
+
+
+
+
+ John Winthrop Jr.
+ on
+ Indian Corn
+
+ The New England Quarterly, Volume X, Number 1, March, 1937
+
+ By
+ John Winthrop, Jr.
+ and
+ Fulmer Mood (Introduction)
+
+
+
+
+ Introduction
+
+ Fulmer Mood
+
+There is some evidence to show that one of the effects of the civil
+wars on English agriculture was to bring about an increased interest
+in improved methods and new crops. The revolution in English farming
+that was eventually to follow included not only the reclamation of land
+by drainage and irrigation, but also the use of crops hitherto little
+known to the English: turnips and other roots, grasses, clover, and the
+like. It did not escape the attention of some of the thoughtful men of
+the period of the Restoration that an earlier importation, the potato
+plant, had become of vital importance in the economy of Stuart Ireland,
+and it was therefore only a short step forward to consider whether
+there were not still other crops which could be domesticated for use in
+English fields. The civil wars had brought about the economic ruin of
+many landlords, and so “spirited farming” rather than the traditional
+conservative methods began more and more to be thought of as a
+restorative of vanished fortunes.[1]
+
+Among the intellectuals of the day who concerned themselves with the
+problems of improving the efficiency of English agriculture were Samuel
+Hartlib[2] and Robert Boyle. Hartlib published numerous treatises on
+agriculture, of which perhaps the best known is his _Legacy of
+Husbandry_ (1655). We are more likely to think of Boyle’s name
+in connection with pure science and his leadership in organizing the
+Royal Society rather than in relation to agrarian arts, but Boyle,
+as a matter of fact, was a prominent figure in the discussion of the
+techniques of improved farming. Early in the life of the Royal Society
+a “Georgical Committee” of thirty persons was appointed; elaborate
+questionnaires were drawn up; and these were distributed in many parts
+of the kingdom. It was hoped that from the answers to these much useful
+information could be collected and reduced to order for the general
+advancement of English farmers.[3]
+
+Boyle was thoroughly at home with the scientific knowledge of the
+time, and his restless, curious mind roamed unceasingly through
+the many books of travel and records of exploration which had been
+accumulated by 1660 as a result of the visits of Englishmen to
+strange and remote lands. He was in the habit of ransacking Hakluyt,
+Purchas, and similar writers for information that might be of possible
+economic value. In the archives of the Royal Society at London there
+are still to be seen scores of sheets of notes which he made from
+Purchas and other compilations. When once Boyle isolated an item
+that interested him, he was in the habit of trying to test its value
+by having Englishmen who were leaving Europe make careful enquiries
+on the subject and then draw up reports which they were expected to
+send back to him. In the end Boyle worked out a systematic list of
+queries—a kind of “Intelligent Man’s Key to Intelligent Questions
+to Ask”—and published the list where all could read it in the
+_Philosophical Transactions_: “General Heads for a Natural
+History of a Country, great or small, imparted ... by Mr. Boyle.”[4]
+A single excerpt suffices to show Boyle’s curiosity about foreign
+methods of farming. These are what travellers were requested to note
+and make reports about: “What the Nature of the Soyle is, whether
+Clays, Sandy, _etc_. or good Mould; and what Grains, Fruits, and
+other Vegetables, do the most naturally agree with it: As also, by what
+particular Arts and Industries the Inhabitants improve the Advantages,
+and remedy the Inconveniences of their Soyle: What hidden qualities
+the Soyle may have (as that of Ireland, against Venomous Beasts,
+_etc_.).”[5]
+
+Those with special information, if they happened to be close at hand,
+were not ignored. In January, 1662, John Winthrop, Junior, chanced to
+be in London on important business for the Connecticut colony, of which
+he was governor at the time. It was in this very month that Winthrop
+was elected to membership in the Royal Society.[6] Boyle must at once
+have improved the opportunity to question this well-informed colonial,
+for under date of July 29, 1662, we find that Winthrop wrote to him,
+apologizing for his tardiness in satisfying Boyle’s request to supply
+him with certain information. He had written an essay on American
+maize, Winthrop explained, but modestly declared he had his doubts
+concerning the completed task:
+
+ ... there will appeare many impertinences as to the cheife
+ [_sic_] matters that concerne that subject (the husbandry of
+ it being, as I remember chiefly desired, together with the manner
+ of the bread and beare made out of it). What is added impertinently
+ was intended to obviate some questions, and make knowne some other
+ things that are only occasional, which I was the bolder to doe being
+ intended only for your honors private view, and an other honorable
+ friend [perhaps Henry Oldenburg, Secretary of the Royal Society] then
+ present when I had your commands about it.[7]
+
+Maize was no novelty by the time of the Restoration. The Elizabethan
+herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1612), had looked into the qualities of
+the plant and penned an unfavorable judgment. In his great compilation,
+published first in 1597 and republished in 1633 and again in 1636,
+he wrote: “It is planted in the gardens of these Northern regions
+[Virginia and Norumbega?], where it commeth to ripeness when the summer
+falleth out to be faire and hot; as my selfe haue seen by proof in myne
+owne garden [near Fetter Lane in Holborn, London].”[8] Maize or Indian
+corn
+
+ ... doth nourish far lesse than either wheat, rie, barly, or otes.
+ The bread which is made thereof is meanely white, without bran: it
+ is hard and dry as Bisket is, and hath in it no clamminess at all;
+ for which cause it is of hard digestion, and yeeldeth to the body
+ little or no nourishment; it slowly descendeth, and bindeth the
+ belly, as that doth which is made of Millet or Panick. Wee haue as
+ yet no certaine proofe or experience concerning the vertues of this
+ kinde of Corne; although the barbarous Indians, which know no better,
+ are constrained to make a vertue of necessitie, and thinke it a good
+ food: whereas we may easily judge, that it nourisheth but little, and
+ is of hard and euill digestion, a more conuenient food for swine than
+ for man.[9]
+
+A passage in Parkinson’s _Theatricum Botanicum_ of 1640 set
+out to confute an opinion fantastic enough to win deathless obloquy
+from every right-thinking farmer west of the Alleghanies.
+
+
+ Many doe condemne this Maiz to be as dry and of as little nourishment
+ as Millet or Panicke, but they doe not as I thinke rightly consider
+ the thing, for although the graine be dry, yet the meale thereof
+ is nothing so dry as of the _Turkie Millet_, but hath in it
+ some clamminesse, which bindeth the bread close and giveth good
+ nourishment to the body, for wee finde both the Indians and the
+ Christians of all Nations that feede thereon, are nourished thereby
+ in as good manner no doubt, as if they fed on Wheate in the same
+ manner.... Of it is made drinke also, both in the _Indies_ and
+ our _English_ plantations, that will intoxicate as quickly as
+ our strong Beare if it bee made accordingly: but is found to be very
+ effectuall to hinder the breeding of the Stone, so that none are
+ troubled therewith that doe drinke thereof, the leaves thereof are
+ used also to fatten their Horses and cattle.[10]
+
+Perhaps it was to settle this dispute between weighty authorities that
+Boyle asked Winthrop to write his little essay. The Anglo-American, for
+his part, was aware of Gerard’s opinion of maize, for he mentions the
+herbalist by name in his text. And we shall probably not go very far
+astray if we credit Boyle, too, with a knowledge of Gerard’s work.
+
+Did Boyle think to introduce maize into England, if circumstances
+should prove favorable? There can be no certainty about the answer.
+Nevertheless, Boyle, despite his devotion to theory and science in
+general, was a man dominated by practical aims, and when he took the
+trouble to procure the writing of an essay on American corn, he had (it
+may be suspected) utilitarian motives in mind.
+
+The essay is here published in full for the first time. An abbreviated
+text was brought out in an issue of the _Philosophical
+Transactions_ in 1678.[11] The original manuscript and Winthrop’s
+covering letter are now in the possession of the Royal Society, by the
+kindness of the council of which they are reproduced.[12]
+
+To students of our colonial cuisine no less than to those interested
+in agriculture the essay will be of value. It may serve, too, as
+a specimen of the descriptive or scientific prose of the age, and
+although the writing is hardly elegant, it is informed throughout by a
+sincere appreciation of the importance of corn in colonial economy that
+lends to it a modest degree of charm, if not of distinction.
+
+
+
+
+ Indian Corne
+ (The Description, Culture and Use of Maiz)
+
+ John Winthrop, Jr.
+
+The Corne which was used in New England before the English inhabited
+any of those parts, is called by the Natives there Weachim, and is the
+same which hath beene knowne by the Name of Mays in some Southerne
+partes of America. This sorte of Corne is generally made use of in
+many parts of America for their food, and although in the Northerne
+Plantations, where the English and Dutch are settled, there is plenty
+of Wheat, and other Graine, yet this sort of Corne is still much in
+use there both for Bread, and other kind of food made out of it. It
+seemes in those times before it was so well knowne, Mr. Gerard had
+beene informed of it, as if it were a Graine not so pleasant or fitt
+to be Eaten by mankind, as may appeare by what he writeth of it in his
+Herball[13] page 83, That it is hard of Digestion, and yeildeth little
+or no Nourishment _etc_, (yet acknowledgeth, there had beene yet
+no certaine proofe or experience of it), yet it is now found by much
+Experience, that it is wholesome and pleasant for Food of which great
+Variety may be made out of it.
+
+The Composure of the Eare is very beautifull, being sett in Even
+Rowes, every Graine in each Rowe over against the other, at equall
+distance, there being commonly Eight Rowes upon the Eare and sometimes
+more, according to the Goodness of the Ground. It hath also usually
+above thirty Graines in one Row, the number of Rowes and Graines being
+according to the Strength of the Ground, the Eare is commonly about a
+Span long.
+
+Nature hath delighted it selfe to beautify this Corne with great
+Variety of Colours, the White, and the Yellow being most common, being
+such a yellow as is betwene Straw Colour, and a pale yellow; there are
+also of very many other Colours, as Red, Yellow, Blew, Olive Colour,
+and Greenish, and some very black and some of Intermediate degrees of
+such Colours, also many sorts of mixt colours and speckled or striped,
+and these various coloured Eares often in the same field and some
+Graines that are of divers Colours in the same Eare.
+
+This Beautifull noble Eare of Corne is Cloathed and Armed with strong
+thick huskes of many doubles, which provident nature hath made usefull
+to it many wayes, for it not onely defends it from the cold, and too
+much moisture of unseasonable Raine (which sometimes may happen) and
+the Cold of the Nights which might hinder the Ripening of it (being
+the latter end of September in some parts before it be full Ripe) and
+possibly the Injury of some blasting Winds, but also defends it From
+the Crowes, Sterlings, and other Birds, which would otherwise devour
+whole fields of it before it could come to its full maturity. These
+Birds especially Sterlings come in greate flights into the fields, when
+the Eare beginneth to be full, before it hardneth, and being allured
+by the Sweetness of the Corne, will sitt upon the stalke, or the Eare
+it selfe, and so pick at the Corne through the huske at the top of the
+Eare (for there it is tenderest) and not cease that worke till they
+have pulled away some of the huske that they may come at the Corne,
+which wil be plucked out so farr as they can come at it. There groweth
+within the Huske upon the Corne a matter like small threads which
+appeare out of the top of the Eare like a tuft of haire or Silke.
+
+The Stalke of this Corne groweth to the Height of 6 or 8 foot and more
+or less according to the Condition of the Ground, and the kind of Seed.
+The Stalkes of the Virginian Seed grow taller then that of the New
+England, or the intermediate places: But there is another sort which
+the Northerne Indians farr up in the Countrey use that groweth much
+shorter then the New England Corne, the Stalke of every sort is Joynted
+like to a Cane and is full of sweete Juice like the Sugar Cane, and a
+Syrrop as sweete as Sugar Syrrop may be made of it which hath beene
+often tryed, and Meates Sweetned with it have not beene discerned, from
+the like sweetness with Sugar, some trialle may make it knowne whether
+it may be brought into a dry Substance like Sugar, but it is probable
+it may be done. At every Joynt there are long Leaves like flaggs, and
+at the very top there is a bunch like Eares as if it were some kind of
+small Graine, and Blossoms like the Blossoms of Rye upon them but are
+wholy Barren, and an empty huske conteyning nothing in it.
+
+The time of planting this Corne in that Countrey is any time betweene
+the middle of March and the beginning of June, but the most usuall time
+is from the middle of Aprill to the middle of May: The Indians observe
+in some parts of that Countrey a Rule from the comeing up of a Fish
+called Aloofes[14] into the Rivers and Brookes for the time to begin
+their planting, in other parts they observe the Leaves of some trees
+beginning to put forth:
+
+In the Southerly parts of that Continent as Virginia, and Florida they
+have their sooner Seasons, and in the Northerly parts, and Upland
+parts are later, where they use a peculiar kind of that Corne which
+is called Mowhawkes Corne, which though planted in June wil be Ripe in
+Season, the Stalkes are shorter than the other Sorts, and the Eares
+grow neerer the bottom of the Stalke and are generally of divers
+Colours.
+
+The Manner of planting every kind of this Corne, is in Rowes at equall
+distance every way about five or Six foote asunder, they open the Earth
+with a How, takeing away the Superfices three or fower Inches deepe and
+the breadth of the How which is used, and in the middle of that hole
+they throw in fower, or five Graines of that Corne, a little distant
+one from the other, as they may fall and place themselves accidently
+covering them with Earth. Of these Graines if but two or three grow up
+it may do well, for some of them are usually plucked up by the Crowes
+or Birds, or Mouse-Squirrells (a little creature, that doth much hurt
+in some Fields newly planted). After the Corne is growne up, the length
+of an hand, it wilbe time to weed about it, which is done by a broad
+how, which cuts up the Weeds, and looseneth the Earth, and this Labour
+is so often performed as the Weeds do grow up in any Quantity.
+
+When the Stalke beginneth to grow high, they draw (at the second
+weeding) a little Earth about it, and afterwards, as it groweth higher,
+and puteth forth the Eare, they draw so much Earth about these Stalkes,
+that maketh a little hill like hopp hills, using the same manner, as
+they do hopp grounds with broad Howes. After this they have no other
+business about it till Harvest, when they gather it, which doth not
+require great haste, (if it be secured from cattle) when it is gathered
+it must be as soon as may be stripped from the Huskes, except it be
+laid very thin, otherwise it will heate and grow mouldy, and sometimes
+sprout in the huskes: where they have Roome enough to spread the Eares
+thin, and keepe them dry, they onely pull off the huske, and lay the
+Eares thin in their Chambers and Garretts, but the Common way is to
+weave it together in long traices by some parts of the husks left
+upon the Eare (this worke they call traicing) and these traices they
+hang upon Stayes or other bearers without doors, or within, for it
+will keepe good and sweete hung in that manner all the Winter after,
+though it be in all weather without. The Natives commonly thresh it
+out as they gather it, and dry it well upon Matts in the Sun, and then
+bestow in holes in the Ground (which are their Barnes) well lined with
+withered Grass, and with Matts, and then covered with the like and over
+that covered with Earth, and so it keepes very well till they use it,
+this was the way of planting used by the Natives, and English also.
+But now the English have found out an Easier way of raising Quantity
+of that Corne by the helpe of the Plough, which is performed in this
+manner. In the planting time there are single furrowes ploughed through
+the whole field, about Six foote asunder more or less, as they will
+plant in distance, then they plow such like furrowes Cross at the same
+distance, and where the Cross furrowes meete there they throw in the
+Corne as before mentioned, and cover it with an How, or with Running
+an other Furrow by the Plow, and that’s all till the Weeds begin to
+overtop the Corne, then they plough over the rest of the field betweene
+these furrowes where they planted, and so turne in the Weeds, and
+this is done only a second time about the time of the Summer, they
+used to begin to hill the Corne with the How, and so the Ground is
+better loosened then with the How, and the Rootes of the Corne have
+more Liberty to Spread. So as there is not so much need of that kind
+of hilling, as is described before, yet they do cast up the Earth
+about the Corne as well as they can with the Plow, and some will after
+helpe it a little with the Plow neere the Hill, though others do not
+regard that way, where any Weeds escape the Plow, a little worke of
+the how will mend that defect. Where the Ground is not very good, or
+hath beene long planted and worne out, the Indians used to put two or
+three of those forementioned Fishes under each place upon which they
+planted their Corne, or if they had not time before planting, then
+they would put them afterwards into the Earth by the sides of those
+Corne hills, and by these meanes had far greater Crops then that ground
+would otherwise produce, many times more then double, the English
+have learned this good husbandry of the Indians, and do still use it
+in places, where those Mooses come up in greate plenty, or where they
+are neere the fishing Stages, haveing there the heads and Gurbage of
+Codfish in greate plenty at no charge, but the fetching. Some also have
+tried the Dung of their Cattle well Rotted, and putting a little under
+every place, or hill, and covered it with earth, and the Corne throwne
+in upon it, have had very good advantage in their Cropps by it; the
+Fields thus plowed for this Corne after the Cropp is off, are almost
+as well fitted for English Corne, specially Summer graine (As Peas or
+Summer Wheate) as if lying fallow they had an ordinary Summer tilth:
+The Indians and some English also (Especially in good ground or where
+it is well fished as before) at every hill of Corne will plant a kind
+of Beans with the Corne (they are like those here called French Beans
+or turky Beans) and in the Vacant places and betweene the Hills, they
+will plant Squashes and pumpions, loading the Ground with as much as it
+will beare; The Stalkes of the Corne serveing in stead of poles for the
+Beans to Climb up, which otherwise must have poles to hang upon. Many
+English also after the last Weeding their Ground sprinkle Turnep-seed
+between the hills, and so have after Harvest a good crop of turneps in
+the same Field.
+
+The Stalke of this Corne cut up in due time (before too much dried)
+and stacked up or laid up in a Barne drie, are good Winter Fodder for
+Cattle but they usually leave them upon the Ground, where the Cattle in
+the Winter will feed upon them, and leave onely the hardest part of the
+Stalkes next the Ground; which are pulled up by hand before the Land be
+againe planted or sowed: Those Stalkes which are about the Eare, are
+also good Fodder for Cattle given them for Change sometimes after Hay.
+The Indian Women make Basketts with them, splitting them into narrow
+parts, weaveing them artificially into severall fashioned Basketts.
+
+This Corne the Indians dress it in severall manner for their food
+sometimes they boyle it whole, till it swell, and breake, and become
+tender, and then eate it with their Fish, or Venison in stead of
+Breade, or onely that without other foode, sometimes they bruise it in
+a Morter, and then boyle it and make good food of it, bakeing it under
+the Embers _etc_, but a very Common way of dressing of it is by
+parching it among the Ashes, which they do so artificially, by putting
+it amongst the hott Embers, and continually stirring of it that it
+wilbe thoroughly parched without any burneing, but be very tender, and
+turned almost quite the inside outward, which wilbe almost white and
+flowry, this they sift very cleane from the Ashes, and then beate it in
+their wooden Morters with a long Stone for a pestle, into fine meale,
+which is a constant food amongst them, both at home, and especially
+when they travell, being putt up into a Bagg for their Journey, being
+at all times ready, and may be Eaten either drie, or mixed with water;
+they find it a strengthening and wholesome diet, and is not apt to
+breed wormes in their Children or others, this is the food which their
+souldiers Carry with them in time of Warr. The English sometimes for
+Novelty will procure some of this to be made by the Indian Women, and
+adding Milke, or Sugar, and Water, will make it much more pleasant to
+be taken.
+
+The English make very good Breade of the Meale, or flower of it being
+Ground in Mills, as other Corne, but to make good bread of it there is
+a different way of ordering of it, from what is used about the Bread of
+other Graine, for if it be mixed into stiff past, it will not be good
+as when it is made into a thinner mixture a little stiffer then the
+Battar for Pancakes, or puddings, and then baked in a very hott oven,
+standing all day or all Night therein, therefore some use to bake it
+in panns like puddings. But the most ordinary way is this, the Oven
+being very hott they have a great Wooden Dish fastened to a long staff,
+which may hold the Quantity of a Pottle, and that being filled, they
+empty it on an heape in the Oven, upon the bare floore thereof cleane
+Swept, and so fill the Oven, and usually lay a second laying upon the
+top of the first, because the first will otherwise be too thinn for
+the proportion of a Loafe because it will spread in the oven at the
+first pouring of it in: if they make it not too thinn it will ly in
+distance like Loaves, onely in some parts where they touch one another
+will stick together but are easily parted but some will fill the whole
+floore of the Oven as one intire Body and must then cut it out in
+greate peices; In just such manner handled it wilbe (if baked enough)
+of a good darke yellow Colour, but otherwise white which is not so
+wholesome nor pleasant, as when well baked of a deeper Colour. There is
+also very good Bread made of it, by mixing half, or a third parte, more
+or less of Ry or Wheate-Meale, or Flower amongst it, and then they make
+it up into Loaves, adding Leaven or yeast to it to make it Rise, which
+may be also added to that other thinner sorte beforementioned.
+
+There is also another sort of Bread, which they used to make before
+they had Mills, which was in this manner, they beate the Corne in
+Morters of Wood, first watering of it a little that the huskes may come
+cleane off by the beateing. When it is beaten they sift the Meale out,
+and then they Winnow the Course parte, Seperating the loose hulls by
+the Wind, this Course parte which is seperated from the finer Meale,
+they boyle it till it be thick like batter, and then Cooleing of it,
+mix so much of the finer Meale, which was sifted out, as might make it
+into a past, of which they make Loaves, and bake them as other Bread.
+This kind of Bread is very well tasted and wholesome, but the best sort
+of Food which the English make of this Corne is that they call Sampe,
+which is made in this manner. They first Water the Corne, if with Colde
+Water a little longer, if with Water a little warmed a shorter time
+about halfe an hower more or less, as they find it needfull, according
+to the driness of the Corne, then they either beate it in a Morter as
+beforementioned but not so small, as for that use of makeing bread of
+it, but to be about the Biggness of Rice, though some will be a little
+smaller, and some a little greater, or Grind it gross as neere as they
+can about the bigness of Rice in handmills or other Mills, out of which
+they sift the Flower, or Meale very cleane (for whether they beate it
+or Grinde it there wilbe some little Quantity of Meale amongst it) then
+they winnow it in the wind, and so seperate the hulls from the rest
+this is to be boyled or Stued with a gentle Fire, till it be tender,
+of a fitt consistence, as of Rice so boyled, into which if Milke, or
+butter be put either with Sugar or without, it is a food very pleasant
+and wholesome, being easy of Digestion, and is of a nature Divertical
+and Clensing and hath no Quality of binding the Body, as the Herball
+supposeth, but rather to keepe it in a fitt temperature, but it must
+be observed, that it be very well boyled, the longer the better, some
+will let it be stuing the whole day: after it is Cold it groweth
+thicker, and it is Eaten commonly by mixing a good Quantity of Milke
+amongst it. This was the most common diet of the planters, at the first
+beginning of planting in these parts and is still in use amongst them,
+and may be taken as well in Sickness as in health, even in feavers and
+other acute Diseases. A learned Physician that not long since lived in
+London (Doctor Wilson[15]) had every yeare some Quantity brought over
+ready beaten, and fitt to be boyled, and did order it to such Patients
+as he saw cause for it. It was observed that at the beginnings of the
+Plantations, where this foode was most in use it was very rare that
+any were troubled with the Stone, and amongst the Indians that Eate
+no other sorte of Corne but that. The English that have beene most
+acquainted with them, have beene informed by them, that the disease of
+the stone is very seldome knowne amongst them. It is accounted also a
+good meanes against the Scurvie.
+
+The Indians have another sort of Provision out of this Corne, which
+they call Pondomenast—the English call it sweete Corne, which they
+prepare in this manner: When the Corne in the Eare is full, whiles it
+is yet greene it hath then a very sweete tast, this they gather and
+boyle a convenient time, and then they drie it, and put it up into
+Baggs or Basketts, for their store, and so use it as they have occasion
+boyleing of it againe either by it selfe, or amongst their Fish or
+Venison or Beavers Flesh, or such as they have, and this they account
+a principall Dish, either at their ordinary Meales or Feastivall
+times, they boyle it whole, or beaten Gross, as was formerly mentioned
+conserning their other Corne. These Eares while they are greene and
+sweete they roast before the fire, or covered with Embers, and so Eate
+the Corne, picking it off the roasted Eares as they Eate it, therefore
+at that time of the yeare, when this Corne beginneth to be thus full in
+the Eare, they have sufficient supply of Food, though there store be
+done, and their Soldiers doe then most commonly goe out against their
+Enemyes, because they have this supply both in their Marches if it be
+in places inhabited, and also in the Fields of those Enemyes against
+whom they make Warr, but this is observable amongst them, that they do
+not Cutt downe, or spoile their Enemies Corne more then they gather to
+Eat.
+
+The English have found out a way to make very good Beere of this Graine
+which they doe either out of Bread made of it, or by Maulting of it,
+that way of makeing Beere, of Bread, is onely by makeing the Bread in
+the manner as before described, and then breake it or Cutt it into
+greate Lumps, as bigg as a mans Fist or bigger (for it must not be
+broken small) then they Mash it and proceed every way about brewing of
+it, as is used in Brewing Beere of Mault, adding hopps to it as to make
+Beere.
+
+In makeing Mault of it to make it good there is a singular way must be
+used. The Maulters that make Mault of Barly have used all their skill
+to make Mault also of this Corne, but cannot bring it the ordinary way
+to such a perfecion that the whole Graine is Maulted, and tender, and
+Flowry, as other Mault; Nor will the Beere made of it be well Coloured,
+but witish, the reason that it doth not come to the perfection of
+good Mault in that way of Maulting as of other Graine, is this. It is
+found by experience, that this Corne before it be fully changed into
+the nature of Mault, must sprout out both wayes a great length the
+length of a Finger at least, but if more its better, so as it must
+put out the Roote as well as the upper sprout, and that it may so
+do, it is necessary that it be laide upon an heape a convenient time
+till it doth so sprout, but if it lieth of a sufficient thickness for
+this purpose, it will quickly heate and moulde, if it be stirred and
+opened to prevent the too much heating of it, those Sprouts that are
+begun to shoote out (if spread thin) cease growing, and consequently
+the Corne ceaseth to be promoted to that mellowness of Mault. If left
+thick till they grow any length they are so intangled one in the other
+and so very tender that the least stirring and opening of the heape
+breaketh those axells of, and every Graine that hath the sprout, so
+broken ceaseth to grow to any further degree towards the nature of
+Mault, and soone groweth mouldy if not often stirred and spread thinn.
+To avoid all these difficulties, and to bring every sound Graine to
+the full perfection of good Mault, this way was tried, and found a
+sure and perfect way to it. In a Field or Garden or any where that
+there is loose Earth, take away the top of that Earth two or three
+Inches for so great a space as may be proportionable to the Quantity
+of Corne intended to be made into Mault, the Earth may be throwne up
+halfe one way, and halfe the other, for the more facility of that,
+and the following labour. Then upon the even Bed, or Floore of Earth
+where the upper part is so taken off, there lay the Corne intended to
+be maulted all over, that it may fully cover the Ground, then cover it
+over with the same Earth, that was taken thence, and then you have no
+more to doe, till you see all that plott of Ground like a greene Field
+covered over with the sprouts of the Corne, which within tenn dayes, or
+a Fortnight, more or less according to the time of yeare wilbe growne
+greene upwards, and Rooted downwards, and then there is no more to be
+done but to take it up and shake the Earth from it and drie it. It will
+by the Insnarlements of the Rootes one with another be like a Matt and
+hang so together that it may be raised in greate peices and the Earth
+shaken off from it (which is best to be done in a dry time) and then to
+make it very cleane, it may be washed and presently dried upon a Hill
+or in the Sun, or in that Countrey it selfe, spread thinn on a Chamber
+floore. This way every Graine that was sound, and good will grow and
+consequently become Mault, and no part of the Graine remains steely (as
+is alwayes in the other wayes of maulting it) but be mellow, and Flowry
+and very sweete, and the Beere that is made of this Mault wilbe of a
+very good browne Colour, and be a pleasant, and wholesome drinke. But
+because the other way of makeing Beere out of the Bread, as before sett
+downe, is found to be as well Coloured, and pleasant, and every way as
+good and very wholesome without any windy Quality, and keepeth better
+from Sowring then any other Beere of that Corne, therefore that way of
+Brewing is most in use in that Countrey, that way of Maulting being
+also yet little knowne.
+
+
+ Footnotes
+
+[1] Ephraim Lipson, _Economic History of England_ (London, 1931). II,
+373.
+
+[2] _Dictionary of National Biography_ (London, 1891), XXV, 73.
+
+[3] _Economic History Review_ (London), IV, I (October, 1932): R.
+Lennard, “English Agriculture under Charles II: The Evidence of the
+Royal Societies’ ‘Enquiries.’” 23-45.
+
+[4] _Philosophical Transactions_ (London), II (April 2, 1666), 186.
+
+[5] _Philosophical Transactions_ (April 2. 1666), 188.
+
+[6] Thomas Birch, _History of the Royal Society_ (London, 1756), I, 68.
+
+[7] Royal Society, London: Boyle Manuscripts, BI. V, 197.
+
+[8] John Gerard, _The Herball or Generall Historie of Plants ...
+Enlarged and Amended by Thomas Johnson_ (London, 1636), 82.
+
+[9] Gerard, _Herball_, 83.
+
+[10] John Parkinson, _Theatricum Botanicum_ (London, 1640), 1138-1139.
+
+[11] _Philosophical Transactions_, 142 (1678), 1065-1069.
+
+[12] Royal Society, London: Catalogued as BI. V. 199.
+
+[13] A reference to the edition of 1636.
+
+[14] Alewives. Winthrop’s use of “aloofes” supplied the editor of the
+_New English Dictionary_, I (1888), 215, with the earliest use of this
+rare word.
+
+[15] Perhaps to be identified as Edmund Wilson, of Oxford and Padua,
+Fellow of the College of Physicians, Censor and Harveian Orator,
+who died in 1657. William Munk, _The Roll of the Royal College of
+Physicians of London_ (London, 1878), I, 246.
+
+
+
+
+ Transcriber’s Notes
+
+John Winthrop Jr.’s paper was originally published in 1676.
+
+Original spelling and punctuation have been maintained as printed.
+
+Footnotes have been moved to the end of the text.
+
+New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the
+public domain.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78645 ***
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+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78645 ***</div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h1>
+John Winthrop Jr.<br>
+on<br>
+Indian Corn
+</h1>
+
+
+<h2>The New England Quarterly, Volume X, Number 1, March, 1937</h2>
+
+<h3>By<br>
+John Winthrop, Jr.<br>
+and<br>
+Fulmer Mood (Introduction)</h3>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+ <h2 class="nobreak" id="INTRODUCTION">
+ Introduction
+ </h2>
+
+<h3>Fulmer Mood</h3>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is some evidence to show that one of the effects of the civil
+wars on English agriculture was to bring about an increased interest
+in improved methods and new crops. The revolution in English farming
+that was eventually to follow included not only the reclamation of land
+by drainage and irrigation, but also the use of crops hitherto little
+known to the English: turnips and other roots, grasses, clover, and the
+like. It did not escape the attention of some of the thoughtful men of
+the period of the Restoration that an earlier importation, the potato
+plant, had become of vital importance in the economy of Stuart Ireland,
+and it was therefore only a short step forward to consider whether
+there were not still other crops which could be domesticated for use in
+English fields. The civil wars had brought about the economic ruin of
+many landlords, and so “spirited farming” rather than the traditional
+conservative methods began more and more to be thought of as a
+restorative of vanished fortunes.<a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<p>Among the intellectuals of the day who concerned themselves with the
+problems of improving the efficiency of English agriculture were Samuel
+Hartlib<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and Robert Boyle. Hartlib published numerous treatises on
+agriculture, of which perhaps the best known is his <cite>Legacy of
+Husbandry</cite> (1655). We are more likely to think of Boyle’s name
+in connection with pure science and his leadership in organizing the
+Royal Society rather than in relation to agrarian arts, but Boyle,
+as a matter of fact, was a prominent figure in the discussion of the
+techniques of improved farming. Early in the life of the Royal Society
+a “Georgical Committee” of thirty persons was appointed; elaborate
+questionnaires were drawn up; and these were distributed in many parts
+of the kingdom. It was hoped that from the answers to these much useful
+information could be collected and reduced to order for the general
+advancement of English farmers.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span></p>
+<p>Boyle was thoroughly at home with the scientific knowledge of the
+time, and his restless, curious mind roamed unceasingly through
+the many books of travel and records of exploration which had been
+accumulated by 1660 as a result of the visits of Englishmen to
+strange and remote lands. He was in the habit of ransacking Hakluyt,
+Purchas, and similar writers for information that might be of possible
+economic value. In the archives of the Royal Society at London there
+are still to be seen scores of sheets of notes which he made from
+Purchas and other compilations. When once Boyle isolated an item
+that interested him, he was in the habit of trying to test its value
+by having Englishmen who were leaving Europe make careful enquiries
+on the subject and then draw up reports which they were expected to
+send back to him. In the end Boyle worked out a systematic list of
+queries—a kind of “Intelligent Man’s Key to Intelligent Questions
+to Ask”—and published the list where all could read it in the
+<cite>Philosophical Transactions</cite>: “General Heads for a Natural
+History of a Country, great or small, imparted ... by Mr. Boyle.”<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>
+A single excerpt suffices to show Boyle’s curiosity about foreign
+methods of farming. These are what travellers were requested to note
+and make reports about: “What the Nature of the Soyle is, whether
+Clays, Sandy, <i>etc</i>. or good Mould; and what Grains, Fruits, and
+other Vegetables, do the most naturally agree with it: As also, by what
+particular Arts and Industries the Inhabitants improve the Advantages,
+and remedy the Inconveniences of their Soyle: What hidden qualities
+the Soyle may have (as that of Ireland, against Venomous Beasts,
+<i>etc</i>.).”<a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+
+<p>Those with special information, if they happened to be close at hand,
+were not ignored. In January, 1662, John Winthrop, Junior, chanced to
+be in London on important business for the Connecticut colony, of which
+he was governor at the time. It was in this very month that Winthrop
+was elected to membership in the Royal Society.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Boyle must at once
+have improved the opportunity to question this well-informed colonial,
+for under date of July 29, 1662, we find that Winthrop wrote to him,
+apologizing for his tardiness in satisfying Boyle’s request to supply
+him with certain <span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span>information. He had written an essay on American
+maize, Winthrop explained, but modestly declared he had his doubts
+concerning the completed task:</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>... there will appeare many impertinences as to the cheife
+[<i>sic</i>] matters that concerne that subject (the husbandry of
+it being, as I remember chiefly desired, together with the manner
+of the bread and beare made out of it). What is added impertinently
+was intended to obviate some questions, and make knowne some other
+things that are only occasional, which I was the bolder to doe being
+intended only for your honors private view, and an other honorable
+friend [perhaps Henry Oldenburg, Secretary of the Royal Society] then
+present when I had your commands about it.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>Maize was no novelty by the time of the Restoration. The Elizabethan
+herbalist, John Gerard (1545-1612), had looked into the qualities of
+the plant and penned an unfavorable judgment. In his great compilation,
+published first in 1597 and republished in 1633 and again in 1636,
+he wrote: “It is planted in the gardens of these Northern regions
+[Virginia and Norumbega?], where it commeth to ripeness when the summer
+falleth out to be faire and hot; as my selfe haue seen by proof in myne
+owne garden [near Fetter Lane in Holborn, London].”<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> Maize or Indian
+corn</p>
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>... doth nourish far lesse than either wheat, rie, barly, or otes.
+The bread which is made thereof is meanely white, without bran: it
+is hard and dry as Bisket is, and hath in it no clamminess at all;
+for which cause it is of hard digestion, and yeeldeth to the body
+little or no nourishment; it slowly descendeth, and bindeth the
+belly, as that doth which is made of Millet or Panick. Wee haue as
+yet no certaine proofe or experience concerning the vertues of this
+kinde of Corne; although the barbarous Indians, which know no better,
+are constrained to make a vertue of necessitie, and thinke it a good
+food: whereas we may easily judge, that it nourisheth but little, and
+is of hard and euill digestion, a more conuenient food for swine than
+for man.<a id="FNanchor_9" href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>A passage in Parkinson’s <cite>Theatricum Botanicum</cite> of 1640 set
+out to confute an opinion fantastic enough to win deathless obloquy
+from every right-thinking farmer west of the Alleghanies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span></p>
+
+
+<blockquote>
+<p>Many doe condemne this Maiz to be as dry and of as little nourishment
+as Millet or Panicke, but they doe not as I thinke rightly consider
+the thing, for although the graine be dry, yet the meale thereof
+is nothing so dry as of the <i>Turkie Millet</i>, but hath in it
+some clamminesse, which bindeth the bread close and giveth good
+nourishment to the body, for wee finde both the Indians and the
+Christians of all Nations that feede thereon, are nourished thereby
+in as good manner no doubt, as if they fed on Wheate in the same
+manner.... Of it is made drinke also, both in the <i>Indies</i> and
+our <i>English</i> plantations, that will intoxicate as quickly as
+our strong Beare if it bee made accordingly: but is found to be very
+effectuall to hinder the breeding of the Stone, so that none are
+troubled therewith that doe drinke thereof, the leaves thereof are
+used also to fatten their Horses and cattle.<a id="FNanchor_10" href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>Perhaps it was to settle this dispute between weighty authorities that
+Boyle asked Winthrop to write his little essay. The Anglo-American, for
+his part, was aware of Gerard’s opinion of maize, for he mentions the
+herbalist by name in his text. And we shall probably not go very far
+astray if we credit Boyle, too, with a knowledge of Gerard’s work.</p>
+
+<p>Did Boyle think to introduce maize into England, if circumstances
+should prove favorable? There can be no certainty about the answer.
+Nevertheless, Boyle, despite his devotion to theory and science in
+general, was a man dominated by practical aims, and when he took the
+trouble to procure the writing of an essay on American corn, he had (it
+may be suspected) utilitarian motives in mind.</p>
+
+<p>The essay is here published in full for the first time. An abbreviated
+text was brought out in an issue of the <cite>Philosophical
+Transactions</cite> in 1678.<a id="FNanchor_11" href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> The original manuscript and Winthrop’s
+covering letter are now in the possession of the Royal Society, by the
+kindness of the council of which they are reproduced.<a id="FNanchor_12" href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p>
+
+<p>To students of our colonial cuisine no less than to those interested
+in agriculture the essay will be of value. It may serve, too, as
+a specimen of the descriptive or scientific prose of the age, and
+although the writing is hardly elegant, it is informed throughout by a
+sincere appreciation of the importance of corn in colonial economy that
+lends to it a modest degree of charm, if not of distinction.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span></p>
+
+
+ <h2 class="nobreak" id="INDIAN_CORNE_THE_DESCRIPTION_CULTURE_AND_USE_OF_MAIZ">
+ Indian Corne<br>
+(The Description, Culture and Use of Maiz)
+ </h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>John Winthrop, Jr.</h3>
+
+<p>The Corne which was used in New England before the English inhabited
+any of those parts, is called by the Natives there Weachim, and is the
+same which hath beene knowne by the Name of Mays in some Southerne
+partes of America. This sorte of Corne is generally made use of in
+many parts of America for their food, and although in the Northerne
+Plantations, where the English and Dutch are settled, there is plenty
+of Wheat, and other Graine, yet this sort of Corne is still much in
+use there both for Bread, and other kind of food made out of it. It
+seemes in those times before it was so well knowne, Mr. Gerard had
+beene informed of it, as if it were a Graine not so pleasant or fitt
+to be Eaten by mankind, as may appeare by what he writeth of it in his
+Herball<a id="FNanchor_13" href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> page 83, That it is hard of Digestion, and yeildeth little
+or no Nourishment <i>etc</i>, (yet acknowledgeth, there had beene yet
+no certaine proofe or experience of it), yet it is now found by much
+Experience, that it is wholesome and pleasant for Food of which great
+Variety may be made out of it.</p>
+
+<p>The Composure of the Eare is very beautifull, being sett in Even
+Rowes, every Graine in each Rowe over against the other, at equall
+distance, there being commonly Eight Rowes upon the Eare and sometimes
+more, according to the Goodness of the Ground. It hath also usually
+above thirty Graines in one Row, the number of Rowes and Graines being
+according to the Strength of the Ground, the Eare is commonly about a
+Span long.</p>
+
+<p>Nature hath delighted it selfe to beautify this Corne with great
+Variety of Colours, the White, and the Yellow being most common, being
+such a yellow as is betwene Straw Colour, and a pale yellow; there are
+also of very many other Colours, as Red, Yellow, Blew, Olive Colour,
+and Greenish, and some very black and some of Intermediate degrees of
+such Colours, also many sorts of mixt colours and speckled or striped,
+and these various coloured Eares often in the same field and some
+Graines that are of divers Colours in the same Eare.</p>
+
+<p>This Beautifull noble Eare of Corne is Cloathed and Armed with strong
+thick huskes of many doubles, which provident nature hath made usefull
+to it many wayes, for it not onely defends it from the cold, and too
+much moisture of unseasonable <span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span>Raine (which sometimes may happen) and
+the Cold of the Nights which might hinder the Ripening of it (being
+the latter end of September in some parts before it be full Ripe) and
+possibly the Injury of some blasting Winds, but also defends it From
+the Crowes, Sterlings, and other Birds, which would otherwise devour
+whole fields of it before it could come to its full maturity. These
+Birds especially Sterlings come in greate flights into the fields, when
+the Eare beginneth to be full, before it hardneth, and being allured
+by the Sweetness of the Corne, will sitt upon the stalke, or the Eare
+it selfe, and so pick at the Corne through the huske at the top of the
+Eare (for there it is tenderest) and not cease that worke till they
+have pulled away some of the huske that they may come at the Corne,
+which wil be plucked out so farr as they can come at it. There groweth
+within the Huske upon the Corne a matter like small threads which
+appeare out of the top of the Eare like a tuft of haire or Silke.</p>
+
+<p>The Stalke of this Corne groweth to the Height of 6 or 8 foot and more
+or less according to the Condition of the Ground, and the kind of Seed.
+The Stalkes of the Virginian Seed grow taller then that of the New
+England, or the intermediate places: But there is another sort which
+the Northerne Indians farr up in the Countrey use that groweth much
+shorter then the New England Corne, the Stalke of every sort is Joynted
+like to a Cane and is full of sweete Juice like the Sugar Cane, and a
+Syrrop as sweete as Sugar Syrrop may be made of it which hath beene
+often tryed, and Meates Sweetned with it have not beene discerned, from
+the like sweetness with Sugar, some trialle may make it knowne whether
+it may be brought into a dry Substance like Sugar, but it is probable
+it may be done. At every Joynt there are long Leaves like flaggs, and
+at the very top there is a bunch like Eares as if it were some kind of
+small Graine, and Blossoms like the Blossoms of Rye upon them but are
+wholy Barren, and an empty huske conteyning nothing in it.</p>
+
+<p>The time of planting this Corne in that Countrey is any time betweene
+the middle of March and the beginning of June, but the most usuall time
+is from the middle of Aprill to the middle of May: The Indians observe
+in some parts of that Countrey a Rule from the comeing up of a Fish
+called Aloofes<a id="FNanchor_14" href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> into the Rivers and Brookes for the time to begin
+their planting, in other parts they observe the Leaves of some trees
+beginning to put forth:</p>
+
+<p>In the Southerly parts of that Continent as Virginia, and Florida they
+have their sooner Seasons, and in the Northerly parts, and Upland
+parts are later, where they use a peculiar <span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span>kind of that Corne which
+is called Mowhawkes Corne, which though planted in June wil be Ripe in
+Season, the Stalkes are shorter than the other Sorts, and the Eares
+grow neerer the bottom of the Stalke and are generally of divers
+Colours.</p>
+
+<p>The Manner of planting every kind of this Corne, is in Rowes at equall
+distance every way about five or Six foote asunder, they open the Earth
+with a How, takeing away the Superfices three or fower Inches deepe and
+the breadth of the How which is used, and in the middle of that hole
+they throw in fower, or five Graines of that Corne, a little distant
+one from the other, as they may fall and place themselves accidently
+covering them with Earth. Of these Graines if but two or three grow up
+it may do well, for some of them are usually plucked up by the Crowes
+or Birds, or Mouse-Squirrells (a little creature, that doth much hurt
+in some Fields newly planted). After the Corne is growne up, the length
+of an hand, it wilbe time to weed about it, which is done by a broad
+how, which cuts up the Weeds, and looseneth the Earth, and this Labour
+is so often performed as the Weeds do grow up in any Quantity.</p>
+
+<p>When the Stalke beginneth to grow high, they draw (at the second
+weeding) a little Earth about it, and afterwards, as it groweth higher,
+and puteth forth the Eare, they draw so much Earth about these Stalkes,
+that maketh a little hill like hopp hills, using the same manner, as
+they do hopp grounds with broad Howes. After this they have no other
+business about it till Harvest, when they gather it, which doth not
+require great haste, (if it be secured from cattle) when it is gathered
+it must be as soon as may be stripped from the Huskes, except it be
+laid very thin, otherwise it will heate and grow mouldy, and sometimes
+sprout in the huskes: where they have Roome enough to spread the Eares
+thin, and keepe them dry, they onely pull off the huske, and lay the
+Eares thin in their Chambers and Garretts, but the Common way is to
+weave it together in long traices by some parts of the husks left
+upon the Eare (this worke they call traicing) and these traices they
+hang upon Stayes or other bearers without doors, or within, for it
+will keepe good and sweete hung in that manner all the Winter after,
+though it be in all weather without. The Natives commonly thresh it
+out as they gather it, and dry it well upon Matts in the Sun, and then
+bestow in holes in the Ground (which are their Barnes) well lined with
+withered Grass, and with Matts, and then covered with the like and over
+that covered with Earth, and so it keepes very well till they use it,
+this was the way of planting used by the Natives, and English also.
+But now the English have found out an Easier way of raising Quantity
+of that Corne by the helpe of the Plough, which is performed in this
+manner. In the planting time there are single furrowes ploughed through
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span>the whole field, about Six foote asunder more or less, as they will
+plant in distance, then they plow such like furrowes Cross at the same
+distance, and where the Cross furrowes meete there they throw in the
+Corne as before mentioned, and cover it with an How, or with Running
+an other Furrow by the Plow, and that’s all till the Weeds begin to
+overtop the Corne, then they plough over the rest of the field betweene
+these furrowes where they planted, and so turne in the Weeds, and
+this is done only a second time about the time of the Summer, they
+used to begin to hill the Corne with the How, and so the Ground is
+better loosened then with the How, and the Rootes of the Corne have
+more Liberty to Spread. So as there is not so much need of that kind
+of hilling, as is described before, yet they do cast up the Earth
+about the Corne as well as they can with the Plow, and some will after
+helpe it a little with the Plow neere the Hill, though others do not
+regard that way, where any Weeds escape the Plow, a little worke of
+the how will mend that defect. Where the Ground is not very good, or
+hath beene long planted and worne out, the Indians used to put two or
+three of those forementioned Fishes under each place upon which they
+planted their Corne, or if they had not time before planting, then
+they would put them afterwards into the Earth by the sides of those
+Corne hills, and by these meanes had far greater Crops then that ground
+would otherwise produce, many times more then double, the English
+have learned this good husbandry of the Indians, and do still use it
+in places, where those Mooses come up in greate plenty, or where they
+are neere the fishing Stages, haveing there the heads and Gurbage of
+Codfish in greate plenty at no charge, but the fetching. Some also have
+tried the Dung of their Cattle well Rotted, and putting a little under
+every place, or hill, and covered it with earth, and the Corne throwne
+in upon it, have had very good advantage in their Cropps by it; the
+Fields thus plowed for this Corne after the Cropp is off, are almost
+as well fitted for English Corne, specially Summer graine (As Peas or
+Summer Wheate) as if lying fallow they had an ordinary Summer tilth:
+The Indians and some English also (Especially in good ground or where
+it is well fished as before) at every hill of Corne will plant a kind
+of Beans with the Corne (they are like those here called French Beans
+or turky Beans) and in the Vacant places and betweene the Hills, they
+will plant Squashes and pumpions, loading the Ground with as much as it
+will beare; The Stalkes of the Corne serveing in stead of poles for the
+Beans to Climb up, which otherwise must have poles to hang upon. Many
+English also after the last Weeding their Ground sprinkle Turnep-seed
+between the hills, and so have after Harvest a good crop of turneps in
+the same Field.</p>
+
+<p>The Stalke of this Corne cut up in due time (before too much <span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span>dried)
+and stacked up or laid up in a Barne drie, are good Winter Fodder for
+Cattle but they usually leave them upon the Ground, where the Cattle in
+the Winter will feed upon them, and leave onely the hardest part of the
+Stalkes next the Ground; which are pulled up by hand before the Land be
+againe planted or sowed: Those Stalkes which are about the Eare, are
+also good Fodder for Cattle given them for Change sometimes after Hay.
+The Indian Women make Basketts with them, splitting them into narrow
+parts, weaveing them artificially into severall fashioned Basketts.</p>
+
+<p>This Corne the Indians dress it in severall manner for their food
+sometimes they boyle it whole, till it swell, and breake, and become
+tender, and then eate it with their Fish, or Venison in stead of
+Breade, or onely that without other foode, sometimes they bruise it in
+a Morter, and then boyle it and make good food of it, bakeing it under
+the Embers <i>etc</i>, but a very Common way of dressing of it is by
+parching it among the Ashes, which they do so artificially, by putting
+it amongst the hott Embers, and continually stirring of it that it
+wilbe thoroughly parched without any burneing, but be very tender, and
+turned almost quite the inside outward, which wilbe almost white and
+flowry, this they sift very cleane from the Ashes, and then beate it in
+their wooden Morters with a long Stone for a pestle, into fine meale,
+which is a constant food amongst them, both at home, and especially
+when they travell, being putt up into a Bagg for their Journey, being
+at all times ready, and may be Eaten either drie, or mixed with water;
+they find it a strengthening and wholesome diet, and is not apt to
+breed wormes in their Children or others, this is the food which their
+souldiers Carry with them in time of Warr. The English sometimes for
+Novelty will procure some of this to be made by the Indian Women, and
+adding Milke, or Sugar, and Water, will make it much more pleasant to
+be taken.</p>
+
+<p>The English make very good Breade of the Meale, or flower of it being
+Ground in Mills, as other Corne, but to make good bread of it there is
+a different way of ordering of it, from what is used about the Bread of
+other Graine, for if it be mixed into stiff past, it will not be good
+as when it is made into a thinner mixture a little stiffer then the
+Battar for Pancakes, or puddings, and then baked in a very hott oven,
+standing all day or all Night therein, therefore some use to bake it
+in panns like puddings. But the most ordinary way is this, the Oven
+being very hott they have a great Wooden Dish fastened to a long staff,
+which may hold the Quantity of a Pottle, and that being filled, they
+empty it on an heape in the Oven, upon the bare floore thereof cleane
+Swept, and so fill the Oven, and usually lay a second laying upon the
+top of the first, because the first will <span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span>otherwise be too thinn for
+the proportion of a Loafe because it will spread in the oven at the
+first pouring of it in: if they make it not too thinn it will ly in
+distance like Loaves, onely in some parts where they touch one another
+will stick together but are easily parted but some will fill the whole
+floore of the Oven as one intire Body and must then cut it out in
+greate peices; In just such manner handled it wilbe (if baked enough)
+of a good darke yellow Colour, but otherwise white which is not so
+wholesome nor pleasant, as when well baked of a deeper Colour. There is
+also very good Bread made of it, by mixing half, or a third parte, more
+or less of Ry or Wheate-Meale, or Flower amongst it, and then they make
+it up into Loaves, adding Leaven or yeast to it to make it Rise, which
+may be also added to that other thinner sorte beforementioned.</p>
+
+<p>There is also another sort of Bread, which they used to make before
+they had Mills, which was in this manner, they beate the Corne in
+Morters of Wood, first watering of it a little that the huskes may come
+cleane off by the beateing. When it is beaten they sift the Meale out,
+and then they Winnow the Course parte, Seperating the loose hulls by
+the Wind, this Course parte which is seperated from the finer Meale,
+they boyle it till it be thick like batter, and then Cooleing of it,
+mix so much of the finer Meale, which was sifted out, as might make it
+into a past, of which they make Loaves, and bake them as other Bread.
+This kind of Bread is very well tasted and wholesome, but the best sort
+of Food which the English make of this Corne is that they call Sampe,
+which is made in this manner. They first Water the Corne, if with Colde
+Water a little longer, if with Water a little warmed a shorter time
+about halfe an hower more or less, as they find it needfull, according
+to the driness of the Corne, then they either beate it in a Morter as
+beforementioned but not so small, as for that use of makeing bread of
+it, but to be about the Biggness of Rice, though some will be a little
+smaller, and some a little greater, or Grind it gross as neere as they
+can about the bigness of Rice in handmills or other Mills, out of which
+they sift the Flower, or Meale very cleane (for whether they beate it
+or Grinde it there wilbe some little Quantity of Meale amongst it) then
+they winnow it in the wind, and so seperate the hulls from the rest
+this is to be boyled or Stued with a gentle Fire, till it be tender,
+of a fitt consistence, as of Rice so boyled, into which if Milke, or
+butter be put either with Sugar or without, it is a food very pleasant
+and wholesome, being easy of Digestion, and is of a nature Divertical
+and Clensing and hath no Quality of binding the Body, as the Herball
+supposeth, but rather to keepe it in a fitt temperature, but it must
+be observed, that it be very well boyled, the longer the better, some
+will let it be stuing the whole day: after it is Cold it groweth
+thicker, and it is Eaten commonly <span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span>by mixing a good Quantity of Milke
+amongst it. This was the most common diet of the planters, at the first
+beginning of planting in these parts and is still in use amongst them,
+and may be taken as well in Sickness as in health, even in feavers and
+other acute Diseases. A learned Physician that not long since lived in
+London (Doctor Wilson<a id="FNanchor_15" href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a>) had every yeare some Quantity brought over
+ready beaten, and fitt to be boyled, and did order it to such Patients
+as he saw cause for it. It was observed that at the beginnings of the
+Plantations, where this foode was most in use it was very rare that
+any were troubled with the Stone, and amongst the Indians that Eate
+no other sorte of Corne but that. The English that have beene most
+acquainted with them, have beene informed by them, that the disease of
+the stone is very seldome knowne amongst them. It is accounted also a
+good meanes against the Scurvie.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians have another sort of Provision out of this Corne, which
+they call Pondomenast—the English call it sweete Corne, which they
+prepare in this manner: When the Corne in the Eare is full, whiles it
+is yet greene it hath then a very sweete tast, this they gather and
+boyle a convenient time, and then they drie it, and put it up into
+Baggs or Basketts, for their store, and so use it as they have occasion
+boyleing of it againe either by it selfe, or amongst their Fish or
+Venison or Beavers Flesh, or such as they have, and this they account
+a principall Dish, either at their ordinary Meales or Feastivall
+times, they boyle it whole, or beaten Gross, as was formerly mentioned
+conserning their other Corne. These Eares while they are greene and
+sweete they roast before the fire, or covered with Embers, and so Eate
+the Corne, picking it off the roasted Eares as they Eate it, therefore
+at that time of the yeare, when this Corne beginneth to be thus full in
+the Eare, they have sufficient supply of Food, though there store be
+done, and their Soldiers doe then most commonly goe out against their
+Enemyes, because they have this supply both in their Marches if it be
+in places inhabited, and also in the Fields of those Enemyes against
+whom they make Warr, but this is observable amongst them, that they do
+not Cutt downe, or spoile their Enemies Corne more then they gather to
+Eat.</p>
+
+<p>The English have found out a way to make very good Beere of this Graine
+which they doe either out of Bread made of it, or by Maulting of it,
+that way of makeing Beere, of Bread, is onely by makeing the Bread in
+the manner as before described, and then breake it or Cutt it into
+greate Lumps, as bigg as a <span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span>mans Fist or bigger (for it must not be
+broken small) then they Mash it and proceed every way about brewing of
+it, as is used in Brewing Beere of Mault, adding hopps to it as to make
+Beere.</p>
+
+<p>In makeing Mault of it to make it good there is a singular way must be
+used. The Maulters that make Mault of Barly have used all their skill
+to make Mault also of this Corne, but cannot bring it the ordinary way
+to such a perfecion that the whole Graine is Maulted, and tender, and
+Flowry, as other Mault; Nor will the Beere made of it be well Coloured,
+but witish, the reason that it doth not come to the perfection of
+good Mault in that way of Maulting as of other Graine, is this. It is
+found by experience, that this Corne before it be fully changed into
+the nature of Mault, must sprout out both wayes a great length the
+length of a Finger at least, but if more its better, so as it must
+put out the Roote as well as the upper sprout, and that it may so
+do, it is necessary that it be laide upon an heape a convenient time
+till it doth so sprout, but if it lieth of a sufficient thickness for
+this purpose, it will quickly heate and moulde, if it be stirred and
+opened to prevent the too much heating of it, those Sprouts that are
+begun to shoote out (if spread thin) cease growing, and consequently
+the Corne ceaseth to be promoted to that mellowness of Mault. If left
+thick till they grow any length they are so intangled one in the other
+and so very tender that the least stirring and opening of the heape
+breaketh those axells of, and every Graine that hath the sprout, so
+broken ceaseth to grow to any further degree towards the nature of
+Mault, and soone groweth mouldy if not often stirred and spread thinn.
+To avoid all these difficulties, and to bring every sound Graine to
+the full perfection of good Mault, this way was tried, and found a
+sure and perfect way to it. In a Field or Garden or any where that
+there is loose Earth, take away the top of that Earth two or three
+Inches for so great a space as may be proportionable to the Quantity
+of Corne intended to be made into Mault, the Earth may be throwne up
+halfe one way, and halfe the other, for the more facility of that,
+and the following labour. Then upon the even Bed, or Floore of Earth
+where the upper part is so taken off, there lay the Corne intended to
+be maulted all over, that it may fully cover the Ground, then cover it
+over with the same Earth, that was taken thence, and then you have no
+more to doe, till you see all that plott of Ground like a greene Field
+covered over with the sprouts of the Corne, which within tenn dayes, or
+a Fortnight, more or less according to the time of yeare wilbe growne
+greene upwards, and Rooted downwards, and then there is no more to be
+done but to take it up and shake the Earth from it and drie it. It will
+by the Insnarlements of the Rootes one with another be like a Matt and
+hang so together that it may be raised in greate <span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span>peices and the Earth
+shaken off from it (which is best to be done in a dry time) and then to
+make it very cleane, it may be washed and presently dried upon a Hill
+or in the Sun, or in that Countrey it selfe, spread thinn on a Chamber
+floore. This way every Graine that was sound, and good will grow and
+consequently become Mault, and no part of the Graine remains steely (as
+is alwayes in the other wayes of maulting it) but be mellow, and Flowry
+and very sweete, and the Beere that is made of this Mault wilbe of a
+very good browne Colour, and be a pleasant, and wholesome drinke. But
+because the other way of makeing Beere out of the Bread, as before sett
+downe, is found to be as well Coloured, and pleasant, and every way as
+good and very wholesome without any windy Quality, and keepeth better
+from Sowring then any other Beere of that Corne, therefore that way of
+Brewing is most in use in that Countrey, that way of Maulting being
+also yet little knowne.</p>
+
+<h3>Footnotes</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> Ephraim Lipson, <cite>Economic History of England</cite>
+(London, 1931). II, 373.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> <cite>Dictionary of National Biography</cite> (London,
+1891), XXV, 73.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> <cite>Economic History Review</cite> (London), IV, I
+(October, 1932): R. Lennard, “English Agriculture under Charles II: The
+Evidence of the Royal Societies’ ‘Enquiries.’” 23-45.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> <cite>Philosophical Transactions</cite> (London), II
+(April 2, 1666), 186.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> <cite>Philosophical Transactions</cite> (April 2. 1666),
+188.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> Thomas Birch, <cite>History of the Royal Society</cite>
+(London, 1756), I, 68.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> Royal Society, London: Boyle Manuscripts, BI. V, 197.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> John Gerard, <cite>The Herball or Generall Historie of
+Plants ... Enlarged and Amended by Thomas Johnson</cite> (London,
+1636), 82.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_9" href="#FNanchor_9" class="label">[9]</a> Gerard, <cite>Herball</cite>, 83.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_10" href="#FNanchor_10" class="label">[10]</a> John Parkinson, <cite>Theatricum Botanicum</cite>
+(London, 1640), 1138-1139.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_11" href="#FNanchor_11" class="label">[11]</a> <cite>Philosophical Transactions</cite>, 142 (1678),
+1065-1069.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_12" href="#FNanchor_12" class="label">[12]</a> Royal Society, London: Catalogued as BI. V. 199.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_13" href="#FNanchor_13" class="label">[13]</a> A reference to the edition of 1636.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_14" href="#FNanchor_14" class="label">[14]</a> Alewives. Winthrop’s use of “aloofes” supplied the editor
+of the <cite>New English Dictionary</cite>, I (1888), 215, with the
+earliest use of this rare word.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_15" href="#FNanchor_15" class="label">[15]</a> Perhaps to be identified as Edmund Wilson, of Oxford and
+Padua, Fellow of the College of Physicians, Censor and Harveian Orator,
+who died in 1657. William Munk, <cite>The Roll of the Royal College of
+Physicians of London</cite> (London, 1878), I, 246.</p></div>
+<br>
+<div class="transnote">
+<p class="center"><b>Transcriber’s Notes</b></p>
+
+
+<p>John Winthrop Jr.’s paper was originally published in 1676.</p>
+
+<p>Original spelling and punctuation have been maintained as printed.</p>
+
+<p>Footnotes have been moved to the end of the text.</p>
+
+<p>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the
+public domain.</p>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78645 ***</div>
+</body>
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78645
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