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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78462 ***
+                                HISTORY
+                                   OF
+                     RECENT DISCOVERIES AT CYRENE.
+
+
+[Illustration: FRONTISPIECE
+
+EASTERN END OF THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, del., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+
+                                HISTORY
+                                 OF THE
+                     RECENT DISCOVERIES AT CYRENE,
+                             MADE DURING AN
+                EXPEDITION TO THE CYRENAICA IN 1860-61,
+            UNDER THE AUSPICES OF HER MAJESTY’S GOVERNMENT.
+
+                                   BY
+                     CAPTAIN R. MURDOCH SMITH, R.E.
+                                  AND
+                     COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER. R.N.
+
+                               DAY & SON,
+     LITHOGRAPHERS TO THE QUEEN AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES,
+           6, GATE STREET, LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS, LONDON, W.C.
+                                 1864.
+
+      [_All rights of Translation and Reproduction are reserved._]
+
+
+
+
+                                   TO
+                  HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF SOMERSET, K.G.
+                      FIRST LORD OF THE ADMIRALTY,
+        IN ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF THE PROMPT AND VALUABLE ASSISTANCE
+                        AFFORDED TO THE AUTHORS,
+                DURING THE PROSECUTION OF THEIR LABOURS,
+                              THIS VOLUME
+               IS RESPECTFULLY AND GRATEFULLY DEDICATED.
+
+
+
+
+                                PREFACE.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+THE Cyrenaica, although bordering on the shores of the Mediterranean,
+and very little removed from the most civilized nations in Europe, has
+been rarely visited by travellers, either for pleasure or antiquarian
+research, owing perhaps to the supposed difficulty presented by the
+country itself, and by the character of the people inhabiting it.
+
+The former, however, is not only beautiful, but fruitful. The number of
+olive-trees, now entirely neglected, to be seen everywhere, shows that
+at one time the inhabitants cultivated this plant to a considerable
+extent, and enjoyed the advantages of superior husbandry; but this is no
+longer the case, and the ground now only yields scanty crops of wheat
+and barley, and indifferent pasture for the rearing of cattle, sheep,
+and goats. Were the character of the people different and any authority
+acknowledged amongst them, the present desolation would give place to a
+different state of things; but this change can hardly at present be
+expected; and so long as the sentence, passed ages ago, “his hand shall
+be against every man, and every man’s hand against him,” remains
+unrevoked, the same restlessness under control and indifference to all
+social comfort, which now exist, will still characterize the
+inhabitants. The natural beauty of the country, however, is still
+unaltered, and plains and hills, well wooded in many parts, meet the eye
+in every direction, and render it one of the finest provinces in
+Northern Africa.
+
+Another reason perhaps why Cyrene has not been explored so much as other
+localities, is that there are few remains of its former grandeur visible
+above the ground. Were the vast piles of magnificent architecture now
+gathered in confused heaps on the sand-banks at Thebes and Luxor to be
+seen at Cyrene, travellers, no doubt, would have made it a greater
+object of attention than they have done. But all the splendour of the
+ancient Cyrenaica, with few exceptions, lies buried below the surface of
+the earth; and here, over the palaces of kings and the remains of former
+magnificence, the Arabs pitch their tents and the camels browse.
+
+Before commencing the narrative recorded in the following pages, it will
+be interesting to mention the principal travellers who have visited the
+country for scientific purposes during the last two centuries.
+
+The first we hear of was Lemaire, who, during the time he was the French
+Consul at Tripoli, explored the country in 1706, by direction of Louis
+XIV. He was followed by Paul Lucas, who visited it twice, in 1710 and
+1723. After him Doctor Thomas Shaw travelled, in 1738, over those parts,
+as well as a considerable portion of North Africa, and left an
+interesting account of his discoveries, and of the manners and customs
+of the inhabitants.
+
+A French gentleman, Monsieur Granger, a physician by profession,
+accomplished the overland journey from Egypt to Cyrene in 1760, in
+company with a robber chief, to whom he promised a high reward on his
+return. Under this dangerous protection he copied several of the
+inscriptions that were found there; but these, with his journal, were
+unfortunately lost before his return to Europe. Our celebrated
+Abyssinian traveller James Bruce also visited parts of the country
+1768-72.
+
+In the present century the first person who visited Cyrene was an
+Italian, Doctor Cervelli. In 1812, the Pacha of Tripoli, wishing to
+punish the revolt of his son, the Governor of Derna, sent an armed force
+into the province, and Doctor Cervelli accompanied the expedition, and
+collected during his journey some interesting information, which was
+published by the French Geographical Society. A few years after, in
+1817, the same Pacha despatched a second expedition against some
+turbulent Arabs at Merdj (Barca), and this party was accompanied by
+another Italian, Della Cella, who travelled as Physician attendant on
+the Bey, and published an account of his travels, which was translated
+into English in 1822; but his hurried visit did not allow him sufficient
+time to collect much valuable information. Cyrene was also visited by P.
+Pacifique, a missionary from Tripoli, who added some fresh information
+to that given by Della Cella.
+
+In 1820, a Prussian, General Minutoli, formed a project of making a
+complete tour of the Cyrenaica, and was accompanied by savants and
+artists to make his journey of greater importance. As soon as he had
+arrived at the foot of Mount Catabathmus, which is situated above half-
+way from Egypt, he lost three of his Europeans, and this misfortune and
+the obstacles the Arabs opposed to his party so disheartened him that
+he returned to Alexandria without accomplishing his object.
+
+The ill-success of the Prussian general left the country still
+insufficiently explored for scientific purposes, and this induced two
+travellers, Captain Beechey and M. Pacho, to undertake the task.
+
+Captain Beechey and his brother started from Tripoli by land, making the
+circuit of the Syrtis Major, and explored the whole of the country in
+1821-2, drew very correct plans, and fixed the astronomical positions of
+all the principal towns, and wrote a detailed account of their travels.
+A surveying vessel at the same time examined and laid down the coast-
+line.
+
+This party had hardly returned when Pacho, a French artist, visited the
+country, in 1824-6, and his travels were published in Paris by M. Didot
+in 1827, in a quarto volume of text, and another containing 100 well-
+executed plates in folio. He was not aware, when he started, what
+discoveries Captain Beechey and his brother had made, as their work was
+not published for some years afterwards; and therefore it was a matter
+of great regret to him to find on his return that many of his own
+researches, which had cost him so much labour and trouble, had been
+anticipated by his predecessors.
+
+Since these two principal works of Captain Beechey and M. Pacho were
+published, M. Delaporte, the French Consul at Tangier, has contributed
+to the Geographical Society of Paris the result of his exploration, and
+M. Vattier de Bourville, during the time he was French Consular Agent at
+Benghazi, in 1848-9, collected a large number of vases and terra-cotta
+ornaments from the tombs at that place, which are now deposited in the
+Louvre, and also made a short visit to Cyrene.
+
+The intrepid traveller Dr. Barth passed over this country before he
+commenced his more hazardous expedition to Timbuctoo and the central
+regions of Africa; and lastly Mr. James Hamilton, in 1855-6, who
+afterwards proceeded inland from Benghazi, across part of the Sahara, to
+the oases of Augila and Siwah, on his way to Egypt.
+
+Few of the travellers just mentioned remained any time in the country,
+and it was quite evident that no attempt at excavation to any extent had
+ever been made before our arrival, as sculpture in excellent
+preservation was found a few feet under the surface, on the most
+promising sites, where people would naturally be led to commence their
+researches.
+
+The valuable works of Beechey and Pacho before mentioned have left but
+little for future visitors to record, and as all the principal monuments
+left standing have been accurately drawn and described, it would be
+superfluous for us to go over the same ground again. The following pages
+will therefore be principally devoted to an account of the excavations
+that were carried on by my companion and myself and will also contain a
+description of the site of Cyrene, its Necropolis, and the surrounding
+country, together with a brief notice of the sculptures discovered.
+
+The ten plates of unedited Greek inscriptions have been lithographed in
+fac-simile from impressions of the originals reduced by photography, and
+a selection from the sculpture has been photographed by Mr. Francis
+Bedford.
+
+In the absence of Captain Smith, who is at present professionally
+employed in Persia, I take this opportunity of thanking the Government
+authorities and the Trustees of the British Museum for their assistance
+from the commencement of the undertaking until its close, and also to
+the officers and crews of the _Assurance_ and _Melpomene_, who
+cheerfully and efficiently carried out the orders of the Admiralty in
+the removal of the sculpture from Cyrene to the place of embarkation.
+
+Also to Mr. C. T. Newton for his useful advice during the time we were
+in the country, and for his valuable assistance whilst these pages were
+going through the press; and to Mr. W. S. W. Vaux, of the British
+Museum.
+
+                                                        E. A. PORCHER.
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+                               CHAPTER I.
+
+                           HISTORY OF CYRENE.
+
+Derivation of the names Cyrenaica and Pentapolis — Causes which led to
+the country being colonized by a body of Dorians from Thera — Battus,
+the leader of this band, first takes possession of the island of Platea,
+and afterwards removes to Cyrene — Coalescence of the settlers with the
+Libyans — The dynasty of the Battiadæ — Constitution drawn up by
+Demonax, and granted by Battus III. — Attempt to overthrow it by his
+successor, Arcesilaus III., aided by his mother Pheretime, which is
+unsuccessful, and ends by his being murdered at Barca — The town is
+besieged by Aryandes, Satrap of Egypt, and taken by treachery — Brutal
+revenge of Pheretime on the inhabitants — Extinction of the dynasty —
+Condition of the new republic, and alliance with Alexander the Great —
+Becomes subject to Egypt — The names of the towns are changed — The last
+king of the Egyptian dynasty, Apion, leaves the country to the Romans by
+his testament, which is afterwards reduced by them to a province —
+Insurrection of the Jews, and a great massacre of the Romans and
+Cyrenæans — Sufferings of the population from the attacks of the Libyan
+barbarians, and by the ravages of locusts, plagues, and earthquakes —
+The Persian Chosroes overthrows the remains of the Greek colonies, which
+are finally overrun by the Arabs — Peculiar manner in which the
+boundary-line was fixed between Carthage and Cyrene — Eminent
+philosophers who lived at Cyrene — Description of the country and its
+former products — Recent history of the country. — _Page_ 1.
+
+                              CHAPTER II.
+
+                    PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION.
+
+Reasons which led to the expedition being undertaken — Peculiar
+difficulties from the nature of the country — Equipment, with assistance
+of the Foreign Office and other authorities in England to carry it out —
+List of the outfit. — _Page_ 7.
+
+                              CHAPTER III.
+
+                                TRIPOLI.
+
+Leave Malta in the gunboat _Boxer_, and arrive at Tripoli — The Meshia —
+Position of the Castle and the Pacha’s harem — Visit to the artillery
+and cavalry barracks — Unsuccessful attempt to overthrow the Turkish
+government by Ghomer during the late Russian war — Notice of Tripoli, by
+John Ogilby. — _Page_ 10.
+
+                              CHAPTER IV.
+
+                               BENGHAZI.
+
+Leave Tripoli, and arrive at Benghazi — Adopt it as our base of
+operations — The wretched state of the town, and the plague of flies —
+The Castle and the principal buildings — Make friends with the Arab
+shiekhs, and engage an Arab of Cyrene as an attendant — Buy two horses
+and other necessaries for the journey — Manner in which auctions are
+conducted — Camels procured, with the assistance of the Kaimacam — Visit
+the ancient Necropolis and the river Lethe — The unsafe state of the
+harbour — The loss of a brig off the entrance of it — The distance where
+fresh water is procured. — _Page_ 13.
+
+                               CHAPTER V.
+
+                  JOURNEY BETWEEN BENGHAZI AND CYRENE.
+
+Leave Benghazi — Rainy and stormy weather — Arrive at Gŭsr Merdj, and
+hospitality of the Mudir — Description of the Plain and Castle — Resume
+our journey through a beautiful country, abounding in game — Encamp at
+Gŭsr Biligadem — Arrive at Cyrene, and select a tomb near the Fountain
+of Apollo for our residence — Our workmen try to desert at Merdj. —
+_Page_ 18.
+
+                              CHAPTER VI.
+
+                                CYRENE.
+
+The native name of Cyrene — The position of the ruins, with the
+configuration of the country — The Fountain of Apollo — General
+description of the Necropolis — A detailed account of the different
+kinds of tombs — The present aspect of the city — The ancient roads to
+Apollonia and along the Wady Bil Ghadir — Picturesque grandeur of the
+Wady Mûchgûn. — _Page_ 25.
+
+                              CHAPTER VII.
+
+                    COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXCAVATIONS.
+
+Visit from Mohammed El Adouly — Commence the excavations at two tombs in
+the Wady Bil Ghadir — These not proving successful, remove the men to a
+temple near the southern gate of the city — Discover the statue of
+Bacchus — The novel mode of removing it — Subsequent excavations in a
+building adjoining a theatre, and afterwards in the Temple of Apollo —
+Discover the colossal statue of Apollo; supposed statue of Hadrian; head
+of Minerva; the portrait-head of Cnæus Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus,
+with its pedestal and inscription; a bronze portrait-head; Jupiter
+Ammon; a group representing the nymph Cyrene strangling a lion; Diana
+Venatrix — Description of the temple. — _Page_ 38.
+
+                             CHAPTER VIII.
+
+          EMBARKATION OF THE STATUES ON BOARD THE _ASSURANCE_.
+
+Examination of the country between Cyrene and the coast — Arrival of
+H.M.S. _Assurance_ — Obliged to anchor off Ras El Hilal, on account of
+the weather — The next day steams to Marsa Sousah, and disembarks the
+waggons and stores — Several camels collected to take the stores up to
+Cyrene — Trouble with the Arabs before they start — The waggons are
+obliged to be taken to pieces, and carried up the Augubah on men’s
+shoulders — Difficulties of taking the waggons across the country and
+the descent of the Augubah — They are successively taken to the beach,
+embarked on board the _Assurance_, and the vessel leaves for Malta. —
+_Page_ 44.
+
+                              CHAPTER IX.
+
+                        DEALINGS WITH THE ARABS.
+
+The position of the Zauyah — Threatening messages sent from the Achwani
+and their shiekh, “Sidi Mustapha” — The Arabs attempt to prevent our
+passing, and a number of our stores stolen by them — Appeal to the Mudir
+of Ghegheb for assistance, and the way it was given — The two culprits
+are apprehended with great formality, and quietly allowed to escape a
+few days afterwards — The Mudir is dismissed for his conduct — Osman
+Aga, the Bash-Cavass, is sent to our assistance — Our reputation as
+doctors, and the curious application of the fair sex for keteebus — The
+wandering habits and mode of life of the Bedouins — Forms of salutation
+— Habit of swearing — Universal use of firearms. — _Page_ 48.
+
+                               CHAPTER X.
+
+              VISIT TO THE OTHER TOWNS OF THE PENTAPOLIS.
+
+The ruins of Apollonia and its harbour — Visit Imghurnis, and on our
+second visit badly received by the Arabs — Excursion to Derna — Pass the
+ruins of Gabiout Younes, Tirt, Lamloudeh, and Beit Thamr on our way —
+Reside with M. de Fremeaux, the Vice-Consul — Visited on our arrival by
+the Mudir and Kologhassi — The beauty of the little town of Derna — Its
+luxurious gardens and abundance of water — The anchorage of Sousah
+Hamema — Longer journey to Teuchira and Ptolemais — Pass by Gŭsr
+Biligadem, Libiar Il Gharib, and Merdj — The present state of Teuchira —
+Arrival at Ptolemais — The great gateway in the western wall still
+standing, and a number of enormous reservoirs in the centre of the city
+— Large tomb to the westward of it — Miss the road on our return to
+Merdj — Hospitably received there again by the Mudir — Return to Cyrene
+— Serious disturbance between the Arabs of the Haasa tribe and the Mudir
+of Ghegheb — The castle attacked during the night, the shiekhs
+liberated, and a number of men killed — They appeal to us for assistance
+— The waterworks at Safsaf. — _Page_ 57.
+
+                              CHAPTER XI.
+
+                    CONTINUATION OF THE EXCAVATIONS.
+
+The large temple near the Stadium — A few inscriptions found in it, but
+all the sculpture wantonly destroyed — Visit of H.M.S. _Scourge_,
+bringing Mr. W. Denison, a carpenter sent by the British Museum —
+Celebration of the festival of the Melood — Proceed to Derna in the
+_Scourge_, and return by land — Smith visits Benghazi to obtain workmen
+and money — One of the negroes stolen by the Arabs — The smaller temple
+near the Stadium — Statue of Minerva — The immediate neighbourhood of
+the Temple of Apollo — Several inscriptions, statues, and heads of
+different sizes discovered here — A seated Egyptian figure, colossal
+female statue, nude statue of Bacchus, &c. — A palace, in which were
+found the torso of a Roman emperor in armour, a large female draped
+statue, busts of Antoninus Pius, Marcus Aurelius, a female bust, three
+heads, and three inscriptions — Make a road down the Augubah, and
+improve the road between Cyrene and the coast — The Temple of Venus —
+Large quantity of sculpture found in it: Venus Euploia, and another
+Venus with Cupid by her side seated on a dolphin, Pan, Aristæus, three
+female busts with curious head-dresses, heads of Minerva and Perseus,
+and a slab of marble in relief of Cyrene strangling a lion. — _Page_ 71.
+
+                              CHAPTER XII.
+
+                           FINAL EMBARKATION.
+
+Arrival of H.M.S. _Melpomene_ — A large party of men are landed from the
+ship, and start for Cyrene with three waggons — Serious disturbance with
+the Arabs — The means taken to preserve peace — All the sculptures are
+successively embarked — We finally leave Cyrene, and arrive at Malta. —
+_Page_ 78.
+
+                              CONCLUSION.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                              APPENDICES.
+
+No. I. (contributed by Dr. C. SCHROFF). — The Thapsia Garganica —
+Difference between the properties of this plant and the Silphium of the
+Ancients. — _Page_ 87.
+
+No. II. — Description of the Sculptures found at Cyrene. — _Page_ 91.
+
+No. III. — List of Sculptures found on various sites at Cyrene. — _Page_
+99.
+
+No. IV. — Inscriptions discovered or found at Cyrene. — _Page_ 109.
+
+
+
+
+                            ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+         FRONTISPIECE.—EASTERN END OF THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE.
+
+  PLATE.
+
+      1. GENERAL MAP OF THE CYRENAICA                  _To face page_  6
+
+      2. TRIPOLI                                          _Ditto_     10
+
+      3. BENGHAZI                                         _Ditto_     14
+
+      4. AMOR BON ABDI SEYAT AND SHEIKH BOCHLEGA                      14
+
+      5. SUPPOSED ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER LETHE                         16
+
+      6. CASTLE AND VILLAGE OF MERDJ (BARCA)                          20
+
+      7. MUDIR’S ROOM IN THE CASTLE OF MERDJ                          21
+
+      8. ENCAMPMENT NEAR A ROMAN FORTRESS (GUSR        _To face page_ 22
+         BILIGADEM)
+
+      9. INTERIOR OF OUR TOMB OF RESIDENCE                            23
+
+     10. OUR WORKMEN—SALEH, MOHAMMED, AND ABDULLAH                    24
+
+     11. WESTERN HILL OF CYRENE, WITH ENTRANCE TO THE  _To face page_ 25
+         FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO
+
+     12. FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO                               _Ditto_     26
+
+     13. GENERAL VIEW OF ONE OF THE HILLS IN THE          _Ditto_     27
+         NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+     14. LARGE TOMB AT THE EASTERN END OF THE                         27
+         NORTHERN NECROPOLIS
+
+     15. TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS                              23
+
+     16. RANGE OF TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS     _To face page_ 28
+
+     17. INTERIOR OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS    _Ditto_     29
+
+     18. TOMBS TO THE WESTWARD OF WADY BIL GHADIR                     29
+
+     19. A TOMB EMBELLISHED WITH FIGURES IN THE                       30
+         NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+     20. TOMB FOR 105 SARCOPHAGI IN THE NORTHERN       _To face page_ 30
+         NECROPOLIS
+
+     21. INTERIOR OF A PAINTED TOMB IN THE NORTHERN       _Ditto_     31
+         NECROPOLIS
+
+     22. INTERIOR OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS                31
+
+     23. INTERIOR OF A TOMB CUT IN THE SIDE OF A                      32
+         QUARRY IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS
+
+     24. INTERIOR OF A LARGE TOMB IN THE NORTHERN      _To face page_ 32
+         NECROPOLIS
+
+     25. TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS                 _Ditto_     33
+
+     26. TOMBS (CALLED BY THE ARABS “KINISSIEH”) IN                   33
+         THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS
+
+     27. LARGE TOMB ON THE FACE OF THE WESTERN HILL                   34
+         OF CYRENE
+
+     28. BUILT TOMB ON THE SOUTH-WEST SIDE OF CYRENE   _To face page_ 34
+
+     29. RUINS OF THE CHRISTIAN CITY OF CYRENE            _Ditto_     35
+
+     30. WADY MUCHGUN, TWO MILES TO THE WESTWARD OF       _Ditto_     36
+         CYRENE
+
+     31. PLAN OF AN ORNAMENTED AND PAINTED TOMB IN        _Ditto_     36
+         THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+     32. PLAN OF A TOMB FOR 105 SARCOPHAGI IN THE         _Ditto_     36
+         NORTHERN NECROPOLIS
+
+     33. PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS        _Ditto_     36
+
+     34. PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS        _Ditto_     36
+
+     35. PLAN OF A LARGE TOMB IN THE NORTHERN             _Ditto_     36
+         NECROPOLIS
+
+     36. PLAN OF A BUILT TOMB ON THE SOUTH-WEST SIDE      _Ditto_     36
+         OF CYRENE
+
+     37. ELEVATION OF THE INTERNAL FAÇADE OF A TOMB       _Ditto_     36
+         IN THE WESTERN NECROPOLIS
+
+     38. TOMBS ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF WADY BIL GHADIR                 37
+
+     39. MOHAMMED EL ADOULY                                           38
+
+     40. PLAN OF THE CITY OF CYRENE                    _To face page_ 38
+
+     41. PLAN OF THE CITY OF CYRENE, TO SHOW THE       _To face page_ 40
+         POSITIONS FROM WHICH THE PLANS AND SKETCHES
+         WERE MADE
+
+     42. INTERIOR OF MOHAMMED EL ADOULY’S TENT                        54
+
+     43. ARAB ARMS OF THE CYRENAICA                                   55
+
+     44. WADY LEBAIATH, BETWEEN CYRENE AND APOLLONIA   _To face page_ 57
+
+     45. EASTERN CITY WALL AND RUINS OF APOLLONIA                     57
+
+     46. RUINS OF IMGHERNIS                            _To face page_ 58
+
+     47. DERNA                                            _Ditto_     60
+
+     48. CASTLE OF DERNA                                              61
+
+     49. ARAB CAMP NEAR TEUCHIRA                                      64
+
+     50. RUINS OF PTOLEMAIS                            _To face page_ 64
+
+     51. GATEWAY IN THE WESTERN WALL OF PTOLEMAIS                     66
+
+     52. TOMBS TO THE WESTWARD OF PTOLEMAIS            _To face page_ 66
+
+     53. PLAN OF A CONSPICUOUS BUILT TOMB TO THE          _Ditto_     66
+         WESTWARD OF PTOLEMAIS
+
+     54. INSCRIPTIONS OVER THE ENTRANCES TO THE TOMBS                 67
+         AT PTOLEMAIS
+
+     55. PLAN OF THE LARGE TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM AT  _To face page_ 71
+         CYRENE
+
+     56. PLAN OF THE SMALLER TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM      _Ditto_     74
+         AT CYRENE
+
+     57. PLAN OF THE TEMPLE OF VENUS SITUATED TO THE      _Ditto_     76
+         SOUTH-WEST OF THE TEMPLE OF BACCHUS
+
+     58. ENCAMPMENT OF THE PARTY FROM H.M.S.                          81
+         MELPOMENE, NEAR THE HEAD OF THE AUGUBAH
+
+     59. CENTRAL WADY AND SLOPE OF THE EASTERN HILL    _To face page_ 82
+         OF CYRENE
+
+     60. THAPSIA GARGANICA                                            87
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                             PHOTOGRAPHS.
+
+  PLATE.
+
+     61. BACCHUS.
+
+     62. APOLLO CITHARŒDUS.
+
+     63. THE EMPEROR HADRIAN.
+
+     64. MINERVA AND A MALE HEAD.
+
+     65. CNÆUS CORNELIUS LENTULUS MARCELLINUS
+         (PROPRÆTOR OF CYRENE).
+
+     66. BRONZE ICONIC HEAD.
+
+     67. APHRODITE AND FEMALE TORSO.
+
+     68. ICONIC FEMALE STATUE.
+
+     69. BUST OF THE EMPEROR ANTONINUS PIUS.
+
+     70. BUST OF THE EMPEROR MARCUS AURELIUS.
+
+     71. APHRODITE EUPLOIA.
+
+     72. APHRODITE AND EROS.
+
+     73. ICONIC FEMALE FIGURE.
+
+     74. FEMALE BUST OF ROMAN PERIOD.
+
+     75. HEAD OF PERSEUS.
+
+     76. THE NYMPH CYRENE OVERCOMING A LION, AND
+         BEING CROWNED BY LIBYA.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                             INSCRIPTIONS.
+
+  PLATE.
+
+     77. Containing numbers                                1 to 5
+
+     78.   Ditto    ditto                                  6
+
+     79.   Ditto    ditto                                  6 „ 7
+
+     80.   Ditto    ditto                                  8 „ 11
+
+     81.   Ditto    ditto                                 12 „ 14
+
+     82.   Ditto    ditto                                 15 „ 17
+
+     83.   Ditto    ditto                                 18 „ 23
+
+     84.   Ditto    ditto                                 24 „ 26
+
+     85.   Ditto    ditto                                 27 „ 28
+
+     86.   Ditto    ditto                                 29 „ 32
+
+
+
+
+                                 ERRATA
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+  In General Map of the Cyrenaica, facing page 6, place a line under
+  Apollonia for the ancient name.
+
+  Page 10, line  8 _for_ Caimakam,   _read_ Kaimakam.
+
+  Page 25, line  3 _for_ Grenuah,    _read_ Grennah.
+
+  Page 37, line  5 _for_ Mûchqûn,    _read_ Mûchgûn.
+
+  Page 54, line  8 _for_ El Douly’s, _read_ El Adouly’s
+                                     (_under the woodcut_).
+
+  Page 71, line 39 _for_ Plate 6,    _read_ Plates 78, 79, No. 6.
+
+  Page 71, line 40 _for_ Plate 8,    _read_ Plate 79, No 7.
+
+
+
+
+                         DISCOVERIES AT CYRENE.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                               CHAPTER I.
+
+
+BEFORE beginning the narrative of our expedition to the Cyrenaica, we
+shall recall, for the convenience of the reader, a few of the leading
+facts connected with the history of that country.
+
+Accounts, more or less detailed, of the origin and progress of the Greek
+colony, of which Cyrene was the capital, are given by Herodotus, Strabo,
+Sallust, &c. In modern times these fragmentary and often contradictory
+accounts have been carefully collated and examined by the learned Dane,
+Thrige, in his work entitled “Historia Cyrenes, Havniæ, 1819.” The
+subsequent great work of Mr. Grote, and the several articles relating to
+Cyrene in Dr. William Smith’s Classical Dictionaries, contain everything
+of importance that the learned criticism of those distinguished scholars
+has been able to authenticate regarding the history of the Pentapolis.
+We have, therefore, with Dr. Smith’s kind permission, compiled the
+following compendium from the articles _Cyrene_, _Cyrenaica_, _Thera_,
+_Battus_, &c., in the Dictionaries of Classical Geography and Biography.
+
+The Cyrenaica or Pentapolis was the name of an extensive tract of
+country in the North of Africa, bounded on the east and west by the
+respective territories of Egypt and Carthage, and on the north and south
+by the Mediterranean and the Desert. The name _Cyrenaica_ was derived
+from the capital city, Cyrene, and properly denoted the country as a
+whole; while _Pentapolis_ was a collective name given to the five great
+cities of Cyrene, Barca, Teuchira, Hesperides, and Apollonia, with their
+several territories and dependencies. The Romans, therefore, who looked
+upon the country as a single province of the empire, called it
+Cyrenaica; whereas, in the time of the Ptolemies, when the country was
+practically a confederacy of separate colonies, it was generally known
+by the federal name of Pentapolis.
+
+Cyrene, the capital of this country, and the most important Hellenic
+colony in Africa, was founded in B.C. 631, by a body of Dorian colonists
+from Thera (Santorin), an island in the Ægean Sea belonging to Sparta.
+Battus, the leader of this band of colonists, was the son of
+Polymnestus, a Theræan noble, his mother, according to some accounts,
+being a Cretan princess. Considerable doubt exists regarding the origin
+of his name: Herodotus believes that it was the Libyan word for “king,”
+while others suppose it to have been derived from βατταρίζω, and to have
+been expressive of an alleged impediment in his speech. No less doubt is
+there as to the cause which led to the colonization of Cyrene. According
+to the account of the Cyrenæans, as given by Herodotus, Battus, having
+gone to consult the Delphic oracle about the removal of the physical
+defect above mentioned, was enjoined to lead a colony into Libya; while
+the story of the Theræans, as recorded in the same author, was, that
+this injunction was laid on their king, Grinus, and that he pointed to
+Battus as a younger and fitter man for the purpose. According, again, to
+a fragment from the historian Menecles, preserved by Tzetzes, and the
+scholiast to Pindar,[1] Battus was driven forth from Thera by civil war,
+and was ordered by Apollo not to return to his country, but to betake
+himself to the continent. Justin gives a strange mixture of the two
+stories in Herodotus with the fable of Apollo’s love for the nymph
+Cyrene. Amidst these conflicting statements, the one certain is, that
+Battus led forth his colonists in obedience to the Delphic oracle, and
+under a belief in the protection of Apollo.
+
+Sailing to the then almost unknown shores of Libya, Battus and his
+followers took possession of the island of Platea, in the Gulf of Bomba,
+which they seem to have mistaken for the mainland. Hence, after two
+years of suffering, and after again consulting the oracle, they removed
+to the opposite shore, and resided in the well-wooded district of Aziris
+for six years, at the end of which time some of the native Libyans
+persuaded them to leave it for a better locality, and conducted them
+through the region of Irasa to the actual site of Cyrene. Though Irasa
+was deemed so delectable a region that the Libyan guides were said to
+have led the Greeks through it in the night lest they should settle
+there, the spot at which their journey ended was scarcely inferior for
+beauty and fertility to any on the surface of the globe.
+
+The site of Cyrene was in the territory of the Libyan tribe named
+Asbystæ, and with them the Greek settlers seem from the first to have
+been on terms of friendship very similar to those which subsisted
+between the Carthaginians and their Libyan neighbours. The Greeks had
+the immense advantage of commanding the abundant springs and fertile
+meadows, to which the Libyans were compelled to resort when the supplies
+of the less-favoured regions further inland began to fail. A close
+connection soon grew up between the natives and the Greek settlers; and
+not only did the former imitate the customs of the latter, but the two
+races coalesced to a much greater extent than was usual in such cases.
+It is very important to bear in mind that the population of Cyrene had a
+very large admixture of Libyan blood by the marriages of the early
+settlers with Libyan wives. The native Libyans, however, were altogether
+excluded from political power, which was in the hands exclusively of the
+descendants from the original settlers, or rather of those of them who
+had already been among the ruling class in the mother state of Thera.
+
+The dynasty of the Battiadæ lasted during the greater part of two
+centuries, from B.C. 630 to somewhere between 460 and 430; and comprised
+eight kings, bearing the names of Battus and Arcesilaus alternately.
+After the foundation of Cyrene, little is known of Battus I. He appears
+to have been vigorous and successful in surmounting the difficulties
+which beset the infant colony, in making most of the natural advantages
+of the country, and in subjugating the native tribes. He governed with
+mildness and moderation, and executed various public works, of which the
+most celebrated was the road which he made for the sacred procession to
+the temple of Apollo. His subjects worshipped him as a hero, and
+dedicated a statue of him at Delphi, representing him in a chariot,
+driven by the nymph Cyrene, with Libya in the act of crowning him.
+
+Nothing of importance is recorded in the reign of his son, Arcesilaus
+I., about B.C. 590-574; but that of his successor, Battus II., marks the
+most important period of the monarchy. In this reign, Cyrene received a
+great accession of strength by the influx of a large number of colonists
+from various parts of Greece, principally, perhaps, from Peloponnesus,
+and from Crete and the other islands, whom the State invited over under
+the promise of a new division of lands (probably to enable herself to
+make head against the neighbouring Libyans), and who were further urged
+to the migration by the Delphic oracle. This influx apparently giving
+rise to further encroachments on the Libyan tribes, the latter, under
+Adicran, their king, surrendered themselves to Apries, king of Egypt,
+and claimed his protection. A battle ensued in the region of Irasa, B.C.
+570, in which the Egyptians were defeated—this being the first time,
+according to Herodotus, that they had ever come into hostile collision
+with Greeks. This battle seems to have finished the war with Egypt; for
+we read that Amasis, the successor of Apries, married Ladice, a Cyrenæan
+woman of the house of Battus. By the same victory, too, the sovereignty
+of Cyrene over the Libyans was confirmed. It was also most probably in
+this reign that Cyrene began to occupy the neighbouring region with her
+colonies.
+
+The misfortunes of the monarchy began in the reign of Arcesilaus II.,
+surnamed the “Oppressive,” about B.C. 554-544. By attempting to subvert
+the constitution and establish a despotism, he caused a revolt of the
+Libyan Periœci. His brothers, Perseus, Zacynthus, Aristomedon, and
+Lycus, who instigated this rebellion, withdrew from Cyrene, and founded
+the city of Barca. In his attempt to quell the insurrection, Arcesilaus
+was signally defeated in a battle fought at Leucon or Leucoë, in
+Marmarica, in which 7,000 of his soldiers were slain. He was afterwards
+treacherously killed by his own brother Learchus. The intestine troubles
+of Cyrene during the latter part of his reign, gave the inhabitants of
+the new city of Barca an opportunity of extending their power over the
+whole of the west part of the Cyrenaica, including the district on the
+coast (as far as Hesperides), where we find the important post of
+Teuchira belonging to them. According to Servius, they carried their
+arms on land far west over the region of the Syrtes, towards Carthage,
+and acquired such a maritime power as to defeat the Phœnicians in a
+naval battle.
+
+Battus III., or the “Lame,” son of Arcesilaus II., reigned from about
+B.C. 544 to 529. During his reign, the Cyrenæans, under the advice of
+the Delphic oracle, called in the aid of Demonax, a Mantineian, who drew
+up for them a new constitution, by which the encroachments of the royal
+house on the people were more than recovered, and the king was reduced
+to political insignificance, retaining, however, the landed domain as
+his private property, and also his sacerdotal functions. The political
+power, in which it would seem none but the descendants of the original
+colonists had any share, was now extended to the whole Greek population,
+who were divided by Demonax into three tribes: (1) the Theræans, who
+still retained the native Periœci; (2) Greeks from Peloponnesus and
+Crete; (3) Greeks from the other islands of the Ægean. A senate was also
+constituted, of which the king appears to have been president. In other
+respects, the constitution seems to have resembled that of Sparta, which
+was, through Thera, the original metropolis of Cyrene.
+
+Pheretime, the widow of Battus III., and mother of his successor,
+Arcesilaus III., joined with her son in an attempt to overturn the new
+constitution of Demonax. Their first efforts were unsuccessful, and they
+were driven from Cyrene; but Arcesilaus, who had taken refuge in Samos,
+returned with a fresh band of colonists, chiefly from Ionia, took
+Cyrene, and executed cruel vengeance on his opponents. He endeavoured to
+strengthen his position by making submission to Cambyses, king of
+Persia. From a superstitious fear of the woe denounced against him by an
+oracle for his cruelty in the hour of success, or, perhaps, driven out
+of the city by his subjects, he fled to his father-in-law, Alazir, king
+of Barca. There, certain exiles from Cyrene, uniting with the Barcæans,
+attacked both kings in the market-place, and killed them. His mother,
+Pheretime, thereupon applied for aid to Aryandes, who had been appointed
+Satrap of Egypt by Cambyses. Aryandes, who welcomed this opportunity of
+effecting the conquest of Libya, collected a powerful army and fleet;
+but, before commencing hostilities, he sent a herald to Barca, demanding
+to know who had slain Arcesilaus. The Barcæans, having collectively
+taken the act upon themselves, the desired pretext was gained, and
+Aryandes despatched the expedition. After a siege of nine months, the
+city was at last taken by treachery, and given over to the brutal
+revenge of Pheretime. Those of the citizens who were supposed to have
+had most share in her son’s death she impaled all round the circuit of
+the walls, on which she fixed as bosses the breasts of their wives.
+Those who were clearly guiltless of the murder were allowed to remain in
+the city, but the rest of the inhabitants were sent to Persia, where
+Darius settled them in a village of Bactria, still called Barca in the
+time of Herodotus. After the siege of Barca, Pheretime retired with the
+Persian army to Egypt, where, according to Herodotus, she died of a
+loathsome disease, for having “provoked the jealousy of the gods by the
+excessive indulgence of revenge.” Regarding her history, the following
+remark is made by Grote:—“It will be recollected that in the veins of
+this savage woman the Libyan blood was mixed with the Grecian. Political
+enmity in Greece proper kills, but seldom, if ever, mutilates or sheds
+the blood of women.”
+
+The Persians ravaged great part of the country, and extended their
+conquests as far as Hesperides; and though they were even inclined to
+attack Cyrene on their way back to Egypt, they left the city unmolested.
+The result of the victory of Arcesilaus and Pheretime was the overthrow
+of the equitable constitution established by Demonax.
+
+Of Battus IV., the successor of Arcesilaus III., nothing is known,
+except that he was surnamed the “Handsome.”
+
+Arcesilaus IV., the last of the kings of Cyrene, is the prince whose
+victory in the Pythian Games, B.C. 466, is celebrated by Pindar. From
+his odes, it also appears that Arcesilaus IV. endeavoured to make
+himself despotic, by getting rid of the nobles of the state. It is
+probable that the city Hesperides was founded by him, with the view of
+securing a retreat for himself in the event of a successful rebellion of
+his subjects. It is not known whether he died by violence or not; but
+after his death royalty was abolished, and his son, Battus, who had fled
+to Hesperides, was there murdered, and his head was thrown into the
+sea,—a significant symbol of the utter extinction of the dynasty. This
+was probably about B.C. 450.
+
+Of the condition of the new republic we have very little information. As
+to its basis, we are only told that the number of tribes and phratriæ
+was increased; and as to its working, that the constant increase of the
+democratic element led to violent party contests, in the course of
+which, various tyrants obtained power in the state; among whom are named
+Ariston and Nicocrates. When Alexander the Great invaded Egypt, the
+Cyrenæans made an alliance with him, and after his death their whole
+territory was made subject to Egypt by Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, B.C.
+321. The country appears to have flourished under the Ptolemies, who
+pursued their usual policy of raising new cities at the expense of the
+ancient ones, or restoring the latter under new names. Thus Hesperides
+became Berenice; Teuchira was called Arsinöe; Barca was entirely
+eclipsed by its port, which was raised into a city under the name of
+Ptolemais; and Cyrene herself began to decay in consequence of the
+favours bestowed upon its port Apollonia. After these changes,
+_Pentapolis_ became the common name of the country.
+
+The last king of the Egyptian dynasty, Apion, an illegitimate son of
+Ptolemy Physcon (on whose death, in B.C. 117, he had obtained the
+government), left the country to the Romans by his testament in the year
+B.C. 95. At first, the Romans granted the cities their freedom, and
+bestowed upon them their former royal domain, only exacting a tribute;
+but quarrels soon broke out between the different states, and after
+Lucullus had made, by order of Sylla, a vain attempt to reconcile them,
+the Romans applied their usual last remedy, and reduced the country to a
+province, under the name of Cyrenaica (probably in B.C. 75), which was
+united with Crete on the conquest of that island in B.C. 67. In the
+division of the provinces under Augustus, the united province, under the
+name of Creta-Cyrene, Creta et Cyrene, or Creta simply, was constituted
+a senatorial province under the government of a proprætor, with the
+title of proconsul, who had a legatus and one, if not two, quæstors.
+Under Constantine, Crete and Cyrenaica were made separate provinces, the
+latter being called Libya Superior, and placed under the government of a
+Præses. It should be observed, that under the Romans the eastern
+boundary of the province, which divided it from Marmarica, was formed by
+an imaginary line drawn southwards from Axylis, a town somewhat to the
+west of the Chersonesus Magna.
+
+The decline of the country in prosperity may be dated chiefly from the
+reign of Trajan, when the Jews, large numbers of whom had settled there
+under the Ptolemies, rose in insurrection, massacred 220,000 Romans and
+Cyrenæans, and were put down with great difficulty and much slaughter.
+The loss of population during these bloody conflicts, and the increasing
+weakness of the whole empire, left the province an easy prey to the
+Libyan barbarians, whose attacks were aided by the ravages of locusts,
+plagues, and earthquakes. The sufferings of the Pentapolis from these
+causes, in the beginning of the fifth century, are pathetically
+described by Synesius, the bishop of Ptolemais, in an extant oration and
+in various passages of his letters; and at a later period by Procopius.
+In A.D. 616, the Persian Chosroes overthrew the remains of the Greek
+colonies so utterly, as to leave only the gleanings of the harvest of
+destruction to the Arab conquerors, who finally overran the country A.D.
+647.—(Gibbon, VIII. 227, and IX. 444.)
+
+At the height of its prosperity, Cyrene possessed an extensive commerce
+with Greece and Egypt, especially in the medical drug called Silphium:
+with Carthage its relations were always on a footing of great distrust,
+and its commerce on the west frontier was conducted entirely by
+smuggling. At what period its dominion over the Libyan tribes was
+extended so far as to meet that of Carthage at the bottom of the Greater
+Syrtis is disputed, some authorities referring it to the republican age,
+others to the period of the Ptolemies. Regarding the manner in which
+this boundary was settled, the following romantic story is told by
+Sallust:—
+
+“The indefinite nature of the boundary between the territories of
+Carthage and Cyrene was the cause of many wars between them. After
+various alternate successes and defeats, they entered into the following
+agreement,—that certain persons deputed by each state should leave their
+home on an appointed day, and that the place where the parties might
+meet should be considered as the boundary of the kingdoms.
+
+“Two brothers, named Philæni, were appointed on the part of Carthage,
+who contrived to travel faster than the deputies from Cyrene; but
+whether this was occasioned by accident or the indolence of the
+Cyrenæans, I have not been able to ascertain. Stormy weather might
+undoubtedly occasion delays in such a country, as well as it is known to
+do at sea; for when violent winds prevail in level and barren tracts,
+the sand which is raised by them is driven so forcibly into the faces
+and eyes of those who cross them, that their progress is considerably
+impeded. So soon as the people of Cyrene were aware of the ground which
+they had lost, and reflected on the punishment which would await them in
+consequence on their return, they began to accuse the Carthaginians of
+having set out before the appointed time; and when a dispute arose on
+the subject, they determined to brave everything rather than return home
+defeated. In this state of affairs, the Carthaginians desired the Greeks
+to name some conditions of accommodation; and when the latter proposed
+that the deputies from Carthage should either be buried on the spot
+which they claimed as the boundary, or allow them to advance as far as
+they chose on the same conditions, the Philæni immediately accepted the
+terms, and, giving themselves up to the service of their country, were
+buried alive on the spot where the dispute had occurred. On the same
+spot, two altars (Aræ Philænorum) were consecrated to their memory by
+the people of Carthage, and other honours were also decreed to them at
+home.”
+
+By a comparison of the accounts of Ptolemy, Strabo, Pliny, and Mela, the
+Aræ Philænorum appear to have been situated near the bottom of the
+Greater Syrtis. At the time of Hannibal’s expedition to Italy, B.C. 217,
+they formed the eastern boundary of the Carthaginian territory.—(See
+Beechey, p. 220.)
+
+Cyrene held a distinguished place in the records of Hellenic science. As
+early as the time of Herodotus, it was celebrated for its physicians: it
+gave its name to a philosophic sect founded by one of its sons,
+Aristippus; another, Carneades, was the founder of the Third or New
+Academy at Athens; and it was also the birthplace of Eratosthenes, who
+may be called the founder of astronomy, and who raised geography to the
+rank of a science; of the poet Callimachus, who boasted a descent from
+the royal house of Battus; and of the eloquent rhetorician Synesius, who
+afterwards became Bishop of Ptolemais.
+
+The portion of the Cyrenaica actually occupied by the Greek
+colonists—viz., from the Boreum Promontorium on the west to the
+Chersonesus Magna on the east—was, in respect of position, formation,
+climate, and soil, one of the most delightful regions on the surface of
+the globe. Its centre is occupied by a moderately elevated table-land,
+whose edge runs parallel to the coast, to which it sinks down in a
+succession of terraces, clothed with verdure, intersected by mountain
+streams running through ravines filled with the richest vegetation, well
+watered by the frequent rains in winter, and sheltered by the mass of
+the mountain from the sands and hot winds of the Sahara. The various
+terraces enjoyed a great diversity of climates, and produced a
+corresponding variety of flowers, vegetables, and fruits; and the
+successive harvests, at the different elevations, lasted for eight
+months out of the twelve. The table-land extends some seventy or eighty
+miles in breadth between the Sahara and the coast, but it is only on its
+N. and N.W. slopes that it enjoys the physical advantages now described.
+
+Among its products were corn, oil, wine; all kinds of fruit, especially
+dates, figs, and almonds; cucumbers, truffles, cabbage, box, and
+saffron; flowers, especially roses, from which exquisite perfumes were
+extracted; and, above all, the plant for which the country was
+especially celebrated,—viz., silphium or laserpitium,—which produced the
+valuable article of commerce already referred to. The district was also
+famous for its honey, its ostriches, and its horses, large studs of
+which were kept at Cyrene and at Barca.
+
+Of the more recent history of the Cyrenaica there is little to be
+related. In consequence of the Arab occupation, the whole country
+relapsed into a state of barbarism, from which it has never emerged, the
+only important event in its history being its conquest by the Turks
+under Solyman the Magnificent, who took its modern capital, Tripoli, in
+1551. Since that date, as part of Tripoli, it has formed a nominal
+portion of the Ottoman empire, owning a greater or less degree of
+subjection to the authority of the Sultan. Soon after its conquest by
+Solyman, it gradually fell, like Egypt, Tunis, and Algiers, into the
+power of an hereditary dynasty of Beys, who were all but independent of
+the Turkish government. In 1808, when this dynasty was expelled by
+Sultan Mahmoud, the state of Tripoli became a mere province or Pachalik,
+which has ever since been regarded as an integral portion of the
+Sultan’s dominions.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 1.
+
+CYRENAICA. CORRECTED FROM THE SURVEYS OF CAPTS. SMYTH BEECHEY & SPRATT
+R.N.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+                            CHAPTER II.
+
+
+FROM the short sketch of the ancient history of Cyrene given in the last
+chapter, the reader will be at no loss to discover the reasons which led
+us to undertake an expedition, for the purpose of examining the ruins of
+that distinguished city. The simple fact of its having been the capital
+of a flourishing Greek colony, afforded presumptive evidence of the
+existence of interesting and valuable remains; and the absence of any
+stationary population on its site, after the date of the Arab conquest,
+favoured the hope that such remains would be found in a comparatively
+perfect condition.
+
+In many places, such as Athens, Rome, Halicarnassus, Rhodes, &c., the
+great obstacle to the recovery of the objects of ancient art, that lie
+buried among the ruins, is the occupation of the sites by modern towns.
+Where such occupation has been uninterrupted, the probability of the
+existence of extensive remains is, moreover, greatly diminished;
+inasmuch as the successive generations of inhabitants have not
+unfrequently made use of the materials of the ancient city in the
+construction of their own buildings, and wantonly destroyed the statues
+and other sculptures, as relics of Pagan idolatry.
+
+In the case of Cyrene, however, it was almost certain that the site of
+the city had been unoccupied for upwards of 1,000 years; so that it was
+highly probable that whatever sculptures and other remains had escaped
+destruction at the hands of the early Christians and first Arab
+conquerors, must soon have been hid from view by a luxuriant vegetation,
+and, except in the most elevated situations, become gradually buried
+beneath the surface of the soil. From such considerations it was to be
+concluded, _à priori_, that many remains of the ancient Cyrene were
+still in existence,—a conclusion confirmed by the testimony of all the
+travellers who had visited the actual site.
+
+Although there were thus sufficient grounds for regarding Cyrene as a
+good field for excavation, there were circumstances peculiar to its
+position and the present condition of the country, which made it very
+doubtful whether such excavations could be carried on successfully. One
+great obstacle lay in the fact of its inland position in a mountainous
+country, from which it was to be feared that heavy and fragile objects,
+such as marble statues, could not be conveyed to the coast for
+embarkation, except at excessive cost of time, labour, and money.
+Another no less important consideration was the character of the present
+inhabitants of the country, the Bedouins, a fanatical race of wandering
+Arabs, proverbial for their rapacity and violence. Moreover, Cyrene
+could only be reached by a long land journey from Benghazi, or Derna,
+the only places on the coast at which the caravan required for such a
+journey could be procured; and also the only places in the country where
+the authority of the Turkish Government was more than a name.
+
+Before fitting out a regular expedition for the purpose of excavating,
+it was therefore advisable to gain sufficient information to form a
+proximate estimate of the cost and chances of success of such an
+undertaking; and this could only be obtained by an actual visit to
+Cyrene, and a careful examination of the country between the city and
+the coast. It struck me, when stationed at Malta, after the close of the
+expedition to Halicarnassus and Cnidus, in which I had been associated
+with Mr. C. T. Newton, that a reconnoitring excursion might be made to
+the Cyrenaica at little or no expense to the Government; the only
+absolute necessaries for its accomplishment being the use of a small
+vessel for, at most, two or three months, the sanction of the Foreign
+Office, and leave of absence from military duty. At that time (the
+spring of 1860) there was a small sailing schooner lying in Malta
+harbour, called the _Kertch_, which, I thought, would answer the purpose
+admirably. A few men from H.M.S. _Hibernia_, to which she was a tender,
+would be a large enough crew; and being only a sailing vessel, she would
+cost nothing in fuel. I talked over the project with Commander Porcher,
+then Lieutenant of the _Hibernia_, who at once expressed his willingness
+to join me in the undertaking.
+
+Our proposal was to visit the Cyrenaica at our own expense, for the
+purpose of examining the country with a view to a subsequent _working_
+expedition, provided the Foreign Office sanctioned the proceeding, and
+the Admiralty allowed the _Kertch_ to be placed for a short time at our
+disposal. We thought it desirable to have some such vessel, not only to
+take us to the coast of Barbary, but to remain there while we made our
+journeys inland. She would thereby serve as a “base of operations,” and
+would be of special use in the event, which was not unlikely, of our
+being obliged, by the hostility of the Arabs, to beat a hasty retreat.
+
+This proposal I submitted to Sir John Burgoyne, Inspector-General of
+Engineers, and to Mr. Newton, by both of whom it was cordially approved
+of. On their joint recommendation, Lord Russell kindly sanctioned the
+project, applied to the Admiralty for the means of carrying it into
+execution, and furnished us with letters of recommendation to her
+Majesty’s agents in Barbary, and a Firman which he had obtained in our
+favour from the Turkish Government. In reply to Lord Russell’s
+application, the Admiralty stated, that as the _Kertch_ was urgently
+required for other services, she could not be given in the way we had
+suggested; but, if his Lordship wished it, that orders would be given to
+provide us with a passage as soon as possible to the coast of the
+Cyrenaica. This offer being accepted, orders were immediately sent to
+Admiral Sir William Martin, Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean
+fleet, to send us to Benghazi, or such other place as we preferred, as
+soon as there was a vessel available for that purpose. We were at the
+same time informed that H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, and the Duke of
+Somerset, First Lord of the Admiralty, had been pleased to grant us
+leave of absence for an indefinite period.
+
+The want of a vessel like the _Kertch_, to remain with us during our
+excursion, caused, of course, a considerable modification of our plans.
+Instead of having our supplies and the means of retreat more or less at
+our own disposal, we should be obliged, by the new arrangement, simply
+to take our chance among the Arabs, and get on in the best way we could,
+the expense at the same time being greatly increased. We were thankful,
+however, for what we had got, and began at once to make the necessary
+preparations for the expedition.
+
+On account of the want of harbours on the coast of the Cyrenaica, our
+original intention was to have started in July, and to have returned to
+Malta before the winter. Considerable delay, however, took place before
+a vessel could be had, and it was already winter when everything was
+ready for our departure.
+
+It is always difficult to know what to take on a long journey in an
+uncivilized country. One is apt to forget a number of things that are
+really useful and even indispensable, and perhaps still more so, to take
+a great many that are afterwards only in the way. For the benefit of
+future travellers, therefore, we give the following list of our outfit,
+in which, fortunately, we found little that was either superfluous or
+deficient.
+
+_Materials, &c._—Two double circular tents complete with storm guys and
+pegs; two small portable wooden trestle bedsteads, made to roll up and
+be carried in waterproof bags; two field-hospital cork mattresses
+(rolling up), two pillows, four blankets, and two rugs, all carried in
+two waterproof bags; two iron folding chairs; cooking apparatus,
+consisting of a large saucepan, a kettle, a gridiron, and tea and coffee
+pots; a few knives, forks, and spoons, and some tin dishes, plates, and
+cups; a lantern (talc), and a large supply of candles and lucifer
+matches; a few simple medicines, some lint, sticking plaster, an axe,
+two small hatchets, two saws, six spades and pickaxes, a crowbar, a coil
+of 1½-inch rope, a ball of whipcord, a hammer, and some nails.
+
+_Provisions._—Two bags of ship’s biscuit, a bag of rice, a large supply
+of tea, coffee, sugar, and salt, packed in tin boxes; two dozen tins of
+preserved meats to be used on emergencies only; two small cheeses; some
+spices, such as mustard, pepper, and curry-powder; two dozen of brandy.
+
+Besides the above,—guns and revolvers, and a good stock of ammunition;
+English saddles, bridles, &c.; personal luggage, such as clothes, books,
+instruments, &c., as little as possible.
+
+
+
+
+                            CHAPTER III.
+
+
+ALL our preparations being completed, we embarked, with our two Maltese
+servants, on board H.M.’s Gunboat _Boxer_, 2nd Master Gulliver
+commanding, and left Malta for Tripoli, Nov. 19, 1860. Our object in
+going there was to have our Firman presented to the Pacha or Governor-
+general of Barbary, who resides at Tripoli, and has subordinate
+Kaimakams, or Lieutenant-governors at Mourzouk and Benghazi. After a
+stormy passage, we reached Tripoli on the evening of the 21st, where we
+were most kindly welcomed by Colonel Herman, H.M.’s Consul-general,
+whose liberal hospitality we enjoyed during our stay. He had already
+presented the Firman, and seen that the most favourable orders regarding
+us had been forwarded to the Kaimakam of Benghazi. The evening before
+our departure, he entertained the Pacha at dinner, on which occasion we
+had the opportunity of becoming personally acquainted with His
+Excellency, who knew a little French, took his wine freely, played a
+fair game of billiards, and in every respect was quite unlike the ideal
+Osmanli.
+
+Eastern towns bear such a resemblance to each other that it is difficult
+to give a distinctive description of one in particular. The houses,
+streets, and bazaars of Tripoli might be part of Constantinople or
+Smyrna. The inhabitants, however, are very different; instead of the
+slow gait and placid expression of the Turks, they have an unpleasantly
+wild and active appearance not at all reassuring to the traveller.
+Besides the Arabs, who form the great bulk of the population, there are
+a considerable number of Jews and Maltese.
+
+The most prominent feature of Tripoli is the Meshiah or date-gardens,
+which occupy some six or eight square miles along the shore to the
+eastward of the town. Throughout their extent, they are so thickly
+planted, that the ground is almost completely shaded by the dense
+foliage of the date-palms. After traversing the Meshiah, one is much
+struck with its abrupt termination. From a luxuriant garden, the
+visitor, without warning, suddenly finds himself in the desert,—a bare
+undulating expanse of sand, stretching away to a range of distant hills.
+
+The most conspicuous building in the city is the Pacha’s harem, close to
+the Eastern gate. By a strange freak of a former Pacha, part of it has
+been painted a bright red, which gives it an odd appearance in the midst
+of the surrounding mass of whitewashed walls. This building was the
+residence of the Karamanli Beys before Barbary was taken possession of
+by the Turks; and shortly before the fall of that dynasty, it was the
+scene of the murder of his brother by Yusuf Bey, in the presence of
+their mother—one of those domestic tragedies so common in the houses of
+Eastern rulers.
+
+The government of Barbary and Fezzan is now similar to that of other
+Turkish provinces, being administered by a Pacha appointed by the Porte.
+As is the case with most Turkish governors, his tenure of office is
+usually very short, seldom, in fact, exceeding a year.
+
+In the western part of the town, near the shore, stands the Castle, an
+irregular old building very much in need of repair. It contains the
+Medjlis or council chamber and the other public rooms of the Pacha, and
+is garrisoned by two or three battalions of regular infantry. A few
+years ago, the town was thrown into a state of consternation by the
+mutiny of the troops composing the garrison, who besieged the Castle,
+and threatened the town with destruction, if their arrears of pay were
+not settled and some other demands complied with. The firmness of the
+Pacha, and a few timely concessions, with difficulty restored
+subordination.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 2.
+
+TRIPOLI
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+Besides the Infantry in the Castle, there is a considerable force of
+Artillery and Cavalry quartered in the Meshiah. When we told the General
+that we should like to see their barracks, he sent one of his aides-de-
+camp to show us over them. The two barracks (Artillery and Cavalry) are
+very pleasantly situated near each other, about a mile and a half from
+the town. We found them remarkably clean and well kept, and the stores
+of arms, clothing, &c., in perfect order.
+
+In addition to the regular troops, many of the native Arabs are retained
+by the Government as irregular cavalry, called Koralié. They are similar
+to the Bashi Bozouks of other parts of Turkey, and are employed
+principally in the collection of the tribute.
+
+During the late Russian war, an attempt was made to overthrow the
+Turkish government, and restore the rule of the Karamanlis. The head of
+the rebellion was a descendant of one of the last Beys, a chief named
+Ghomer, who had been kept a prisoner for some years at Constantinople,
+but had either escaped or been released. So many of the native tribes
+were in his favour, that for some time he was powerful enough to set the
+government at defiance. He seems, besides, to have been a man eminently
+well fitted for carrying on irregular warfare. Several expeditions sent
+against him ended in failure and disaster; but his army was at last
+completely defeated by a force under the immediate command of the Pacha,
+who on that occasion was accompanied by Colonel Herman, to whose
+judicious counsel he was much indebted for its fortunate result. After
+his defeat, Ghomer wandered as a fugitive, with a price set on his head,
+until, at last, he fell into the hands of some of the Pacha’s followers,
+by whom he was slain. One of his most active partisans was an
+Englishman, who, on the suppression of the rebellion, was taken prisoner
+and sent for trial to Constantinople; but on reaching the Dardanelles,
+he was quietly released by order of the Sultan.
+
+The following quaint sketch of the history of Tripoli is given in a work
+published in 1670, entitled “Africa; being an Accurate Description of
+the Regions of Egypt, Barbary, Libya, and Billedulgerid, the Land of
+Negroes, Guinee, Æthiopia, and the Abyssines, &c. &c., by John Ogilby,
+Esquire, Master of His Majesty’s Revels in the Kingdom of Ireland.”
+
+“This city and State (Tripoli) hath from the beginning had Lords of
+greatest eminency; as first the Romans, to whom it did Homage and
+Fealty, when they were Masters of Africa; but as their strength and
+glory declined, shrouded themselves under the protection of the Kings of
+Morocco, Fez, and Tunis, which have possessed it by right of Birth: but
+when the Inhabitants saw themselves oppressed by the Tyranny of Mukamur,
+Son of Hesen, King of Tunis, they threw the yoke off their Necks, first
+by a general Revolt, then expelling the King’s Lieutenant, and all other
+his officers, and at last electing from among themselves one whom they
+made their Ruler or Magistrate, putting all the Revenue and Support of
+the State into his hands. In the beginning this new Lord ruled with all
+gentleness; but afterwards degenerating into all sorts of Tyranny, his
+brother in law revenged the cause of the City by killing him. Freed from
+this Viper of their own breeding, they impowered a courtier of Prince
+Abubacer, who had been a Recluse or Hermit who held the command a few
+months, till Ferdinand, King of Arragon and Castile, sent Don Pedro de
+Navarre thither with an Army, who surprized the city, made all the
+Inhabitants Slaves, and brought them away; together with their Governour
+and his Son, whom he sent first to Messina, from thence to Palermo,
+where the Emperor Charles V. set him at liberty, dismissing him home to
+Tripoli, which the Christians, as we said, had dismantled and made
+untenable in all parts except the castle, which they furnished with a
+brave wall, whereon they planted divers great Cannon.
+
+“The young Prince being come to Tripoli, repeopled it, in the name and
+on the behalf of the Emperor Charles; but in the year 1533, together
+with Tunis, Byserta, Susa, Monaster, and the Island of Zerby, was
+regained by Barberossa, who was scarcely warm in it before the Emperor
+Charles reassaulted and took it, forthwith making a Present of it to the
+Knights of Malta, who possessed it till the year 1551, when, under the
+reign of Solyman the Magnificent, Sinan Bashaw came and besieged
+Tripoli; to whom after a short time it was delivered upon honourable
+articles; among which one was, That the garrison should march out with
+Bag and Baggage, and be provided of convenient shipping to Malta by
+Sinan; but, contrary to the conditions, most of them were plundered of
+their Goods: two hundred of the Moors, who had served the Maltese, were
+put to the Sword, and most of the Knights of Malta sent to the galleys,
+and the rest the Bashaw took and made slaves.
+
+“After this victory Sinan appointed Morat Aga to be Viceroy, and ever
+since the Grand Seignior sends from Constantinople every three years a
+Beglerbeg or Bashaw thither to support his Conquests.
+
+“About the year 1598, Sidi Haga, a Marabout, or Priest, designing to
+make himself a Master of the city and kingdom, with the assistance of
+the meaner sort, began a notable Rebellion; upon the first intelligence
+whereof, Assam Bassa, Admiral at Sea, sailed thither with sixty galleys
+and some soldiers, from Tunis and Algier, on a sudden fell into the
+Marabout’s Quarters, whose own men, finding their error, in some measure
+to mitigate the fury against themselves, set an end to their mutiny by
+presenting their Captain’s head to Sinan, who sent it to the Grand
+Seignior.
+
+“In this condition Tripoli continued until about the year 1600, when the
+authority of the Bashaw was diminished by the soldiers and their
+commanders, in the same manner as Kara Osman did at Tunis, since which
+time Mahomet Bey, a Grecian Renegado, of the ancient house of the
+Justinians, hath so laid his business, that having got the Banner of
+Tripolis from the Grand Seignior, after he became Master of the Castle,
+would not endure the Bashaw any longer, but began to rule with full
+authority, yet still pretending a subjection to the Turk; and to
+preserve his favour, as an acknowledgement and homage, he frequently
+sends over many costly presents, and slaves: But at length this Bey
+became so powerful, that nothing was done but by his peculiar command.
+For he took soldiers at his pleasure, without the knowledge of the
+Divan, or Militia, and placed them in the Castle, for the security of
+his own person, that he might not be trepanned into his Ruin by the
+Policies of the Great Turk: and in this posture of Government it
+remained and doth still; only in 1667, the Moors made a dangerous
+Insurrection; but it proved only to the loss of their own heads.”
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+AFTER spending four days very pleasantly at Tripoli, we reluctantly took
+leave of Colonel and Mrs. Herman, and started for Benghazi, in the
+_Boxer_, on the 25th. There being little coal to spare, we went under
+sail, and as the winds were light and variable, we did not reach
+Benghazi till noon of the 30th.
+
+Shortly after we had anchored, the late Mr. Frederick Crowe, H.M.’s
+Vice-Consul, came on board, and most kindly invited us to take up our
+quarters at his house. Our original intention was to have gone on to
+Derna, and made it the starting-point of our journey to Cyrene, as the
+distance from that place was much less than from Benghazi. By Mr.
+Crowe’s advice, however, we gave up this idea, and resolved to adopt
+Benghazi as our “base of operations.” He told us that as there was not
+at that time a single European at Derna to assist us, we should have
+great difficulty in forming a caravan, and making the necessary
+arrangements for our journey. We were therefore easily induced to accept
+his kind offers of hospitality and assistance.
+
+At the landing-place we were received by some officers sent by the
+Kaimakam, who informed us that rooms had been prepared for our
+accommodation at the Castle. Saddle-horses also were in waiting, out of
+compliment rather than for use, the distance to the Castle being only
+some fifty yards. After the exchange of the usual salutations and fine
+speeches, the ceremonial reception came to an end, and the officers
+retired. Immediately afterwards we were happy to find ourselves under
+the hospitable roof of Mr. Crowe. The following day the _Boxer_ left to
+return to Malta.
+
+Benghazi, built on the site of the ancient Hesperides or Berenice,
+occupies the point of a narrow strip of land between the sea and a
+shallow salt lake or lagoon. A belt of palm-trees behind the town, and
+the solitary minaret of a mosque, are the only objects that rise above
+the monotonous level of the surrounding country, and give any
+distinctive character to the scene. We must, however, except some half-
+dozen bent and melancholy-looking palms on Juliana Point, on the
+opposite side of the entrance to the harbour. For upwards of twenty
+miles inland from Benghazi, the country is an unvaried undulating plain,
+with hardly a single feature to mark one part of it from another. A few
+juniper and baturne shrubs grow here and there. The sketch we have given
+is taken from the northward of the town near the meat-market, and a few
+yards in front of the only windmill in the country.
+
+The streets and houses in the town are wretched in the extreme. The
+houses, if such they may be called, are all built of small stones
+plastered and held together with mud. The consequence is, that the town
+is half laid in ruins every winter by the rain, and as but few of the
+fallen houses are ever rebuilt, the miserable appearance of the streets
+may easily be imagined. Whitewash, so liberally used by the Turks, and
+which gives such an air of comfort and cleanliness to many of their
+villages, is here unknown. The streets, encumbered with the ruins of
+fallen houses, are, moreover, filthy to a degree unknown in the worst of
+European cities.
+
+No account of Benghazi would be complete without mentioning the plague
+of flies, to which it is at nearly all seasons subject. During meals, a
+partial escape from their persecution may be effected by darkening the
+room, and thereby inducing them to settle on the ceiling. Even then,
+however, they are perpetually crawling into the cups and plates,
+notwithstanding the efforts of a servant “told off” for the very purpose
+of driving them away. It is almost unnecessary to add that fleas abound,
+as in other Eastern places.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 3.
+
+BENGHAZI
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+The following graphic and accurate description of the Benghazi flies is
+given by Beechey:—“On account of the filth and rubbish and the stagnant
+pools in the town, Benghazi is proverbial for flies, and every part of
+the town, both within and without the houses, may truly be said to swarm
+with them. Among the various annoyances with which the place abounds
+these are perhaps the most serious of any, or, at all events, they are
+those from which it is least possible to escape; there is, in fact, no
+chance of avoiding them. They follow you everywhere from place to place,
+settle on every part of the arms, legs, and body, which the heat of the
+weather obliges you to leave uncovered; creep obstinately into the
+corners of the eyes and up the nostrils, into the hollows of the ears
+and the corners of the mouth when it is closed; and often fly down the
+throat, nearly choking you, when it is open. At meals, every part of the
+dishes and their contents are covered as soon as they are produced, and
+every fluid becomes a trap for as many of these insects as can crowd
+over its surface. In short, there is literally no riding or walking, no
+reading or writing, no eating or resting one’s self in any part of
+Benghazi in comfort for them; and if at night they take up their
+accustomed position on the ceiling, and give place to the fleas and
+mosquitoes, the first dawn of morning finds them on the wing, and all
+alive to recommence their operations.”
+
+The Castle, which stands on one side of the entrance to the harbour,
+consists of a number of houses enclosed by a quadrangular wall with
+round flanking towers at the corners. The masonry is very little
+superior to that of the rest of the town; in fact, the walls are so
+badly built that they would soon collapse under the concussion of the
+fire of their own guns. One range of houses is used as a barrack for the
+wing of an infantry regiment, another as the prison, and the remaining
+buildings as the residence and council-chamber of the Kaimakam.
+
+The English Consulate, and a few two-storied houses lately built close
+by it, give a respectable appearance to the part of the town near the
+Castle. When we were at Benghazi, some missionaries from the Propaganda
+at Rome were building in this quarter a good substantial house and
+chapel, which promised to become by far the finest structure in the
+town. The object of this mission is not so much to attempt the
+conversion of the native Arabs, as to attend to the spiritual wants of
+the Christians of the place, who are almost all Maltese. The mission
+consists of one priest and two or three lay brethren, all of the
+Capuchin order of friars.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 4.—AMOR BON ABDI SEYAT AND SHEIKH BOCHLEGA.
+
+_From a Photograph._]
+
+One of the first things we had to attend to at Benghazi was the question
+of escort. By order of the Pacha, the Kaimakam was required to furnish
+us with an adequate one; but Mr. Crowe advised us to go as independently
+of the Turkish authorities as possible; as he thought rightly, that all
+the soldiers the Kaimakam could send with us could afford little
+assistance if the Arabs actually turned against us, and would, probably,
+by their very presence, only provoke hostility. We therefore declined
+the Kaimakam’s offers of protection in this respect, and contented
+ourselves with a circular letter addressed to his subordinates, the
+Mudirs of Merdj, Ghegheb, and Derna. Meantime, Mr. Crowe sent for some
+of the principal sheikhs of the tribes on our proposed route, in order,
+if possible, to enlist them in our favour. Some of them fortunately
+happened to come to Benghazi a few days afterwards, when Mr. Crowe asked
+them to pay him a visit at the Consulate. When they came, he told them
+of our intended journey to Cyrene, and said that we should prefer their
+protection to that of the military escort offered by the Kaimakam. They
+replied that they were very happy to be able to do anything in return
+for the benefits he had conferred on them, and especially for the
+restraint which his presence exercised upon the unlawful and oppressive
+conduct of the Pachas. They then gave us letters to the sheikhs of the
+principal tribes on our route, and ordered an Arab from the
+neighbourhood of Cyrene to accompany us on our journey, and remain with
+us afterwards. This man, Amor Bon Abdi Seyat, proved in the end of the
+greatest service. He is shown on the left of the annexed sketch, and the
+other was one of our friends at Cyrene, Sheikh Bochlega.
+
+The question of escort settled, the next thing to be attended to was our
+equipment for the journey. In this, as in all our arrangements, we were
+greatly assisted by Mr. Crowe. We were also much indebted to Mr.
+Cesareo, a merchant of Benghazi, who afterwards accompanied us to
+Cyrene, at Mr. Crowe’s request. The Kaimakam undertook to procure as
+many camels for hire as we required. Our horses we bought at an auction,
+which is worthy of some notice, as it was conducted on rather a curious
+principle. The auctioneer walks about the bazaar, showing whatever is
+for sale, and calling out the last bid for it. When no one will bid
+more, the article is “knocked down” to the highest bidder, not at the
+sum offered by himself, but at the next highest. In bidding, therefore,
+against other people, the best plan is to allow them to run the price up
+till it has nearly reached the sum one is willing to pay, and then to
+offer a much larger price. This, of course, deters them from offering
+more; and the article is obtained at the smaller sum which they had bid
+for it. Our two horses bought in this way cost £14.
+
+A great many necessaries for the journey had to be got, which, had we
+been left entirely to ourselves, we might have forgotten. Among the most
+important of these were skins for carrying water, called “girbehs,” and
+a leather bucket for drawing it. The _girbeh_ is a whole goat-skin
+tanned inside, with the hair left on outside. To our stock of provisions
+we added another bag of biscuit and a large bag of onions. We also
+bought a dozen Barbary mats, which added greatly to our comfort, both on
+the journey, and afterwards during our stay at Cyrene. They make an
+excellent covering for the floor of a tent, for which purpose they are
+much to be preferred to rugs or carpets. Being made of thin strips of
+reed, they are not injured by the rain, and can be dried at once by
+simply rubbing them with a cloth. Their special excellence, however, is
+that they afford very little harbour for fleas.
+
+We laid in a good stock of coarse-grained powder to be used as
+“bakshish,” or presents. As the importation and sale of gunpowder are
+prohibited, it is smuggled on shore by the traders of Benghazi, who
+charge the Arabs a price proportionate to the risk they run in procuring
+it, or the sum they expend in bribing the officers of the Custom-house.
+For this reason, powder is often more useful to the traveller than money
+itself. By Mr. Crowe’s advice, we also took for “bakshish” some printed
+cotton handkerchiefs, and some leaf tobacco for chewing. Somewhat to our
+surprise, we found smoking almost unknown, and the habit of chewing
+tobacco very prevalent among the Arabs. They use with it a kind of
+saltpetre, called “natron,” obtained, as we were told, from the salt
+lakes of Fezzan.
+
+Of the ancient city very few remains are now visible. At the back of the
+Castle, where the ground rises a little, the sea has washed away the
+soil, and thereby formed a steep face or escarp, in which some
+foundations may be seen cropping out; but, unfortunately, the tomb of a
+Marābut or saint, and the surrounding public burial-ground, prevent any
+excavation being made.
+
+During the twelve days that we remained at Benghazi, we made several
+excursions with Mr. Crowe in the neighbourhood. The most interesting
+locality is at the head of the shallow lagoon about two miles from the
+town. Here a succession of mounds and other irregularities in the
+surface of the ground mark the position of the ancient cemetery. About
+eleven years ago, some rather extensive excavations were made here by M.
+de Bourville, French Vice-Consul at Benghazi. His labours were rewarded
+by finding a number of valuable vases, and some sculptures of later
+date, all of which are now deposited in the Louvre. Judging from the
+appearance of a tomb which Mr. Crowe had recently opened, the necropolis
+seems to have consisted of tombs built underground. His attention was
+attracted to the spot in which this tomb was afterwards discovered by
+noticing the hollow sound of his horse’s footsteps when riding over it.
+After digging two or three days, his workmen found the entrance in the
+end wall, only a few feet below the surface. The interior resembled, in
+plan, many of the rock sepulchres at Cyrene and elsewhere, consisting of
+an oblong centre chamber with lateral recesses for the sarcophagi. It
+was built throughout of isodomous masonry, without mortar. Besides a
+large plain marble sarcophagus, it contained two small ones, also of
+marble, and highly ornamented with figures in bas-relief. These were
+afterwards sent by Mr. Crowe to the British Museum, where they may be
+seen among the sculptures from Cyrene.
+
+There is an old Arab at Benghazi, formerly employed by M. de Bourville
+both there and at Teuchira, who now spends his time in digging in the
+cemetery. His operations are, of course, on a very limited scale; but by
+digging small holes at random all over the place, he has found a great
+many vases, terra-cotta figures, &c., which he sells to the Maltese
+merchants in the town. We were inclined to engage him to go with us to
+Cyrene; but as he considered himself entitled to about as much pay as a
+dozen workmen, we had to dispense with his services.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 5.—SUPPOSED ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER LETHE.]
+
+Beyond the cemetery, in the extensive plain of Benghazi, there are
+numerous natural hollows or chasms, with steep rocky sides, some of
+which still bear the marks of having been used as quarries. Moistened by
+the drainage of the surrounding ground, the soil at the bottom of many
+of them is covered with a luxuriant vegetation. One of them, about four
+miles from Benghazi, known as the “Garden of Osman,” is pretty fairly
+cultivated, and contains a well of excellent water. The verdure of these
+spots, resembling, as they do, oases in a desert, has given rise to the
+conjecture that they are the gardens of the Hesperides.
+
+We also visited a remarkable place, supposed, with a greater degree of
+probability, to be an entrance to the subterranean river Lathon, which
+has usually been identified with the Lethe. About a mile from the Garden
+of Osman we were conducted to the edge of an abrupt ravine, about 100
+feet deep, with a dark-looking cavern at the bottom. Leaving our horses
+above, we descended the ravine, and entered the cave. At the entrance it
+was low and narrow; but after descending a few yards, it suddenly
+expanded to a height of fifteen and a width of about forty feet. Some
+thirty yards from the entrance we came to the margin of a sheet of
+water, which extended as far as the eye could reach. One of our Arab
+attendants waded in with a lighted torch, but was obliged to return on
+account of the depth of water, after going about fifty yards. Whether
+the water is really a river, or only a large subterranean pool, it is
+difficult to say. We wished to explore it further, but could not get a
+boat at Benghazi small enough to be portable. Some years ago, it was
+determined to sink a shaft to the cavern some distance from the mouth,
+for the purpose, probably, of making the large supply of water
+available; but through an error in the bearings taken by the
+superintending officer, the shaft was sunk in the wrong place, and
+consequently the water was never reached. The good work was then
+abandoned as unlucky, and has not since been resumed.
+
+The harbour of Benghazi is very unsafe, and cannot be entered by vessels
+drawing more than six feet of water. The channel at the entrance is
+narrow, with a reef of rocks on each side. The outside anchorage is
+quite open and unsheltered, so that vessels lying there have to put to
+sea when it blows hard from seaward. Instead of doing anything towards
+improving the harbour, the authorities do not even prevent vessels from
+discharging their ballast into it, and thereby making it gradually
+worse. The day before we left, we saw a brig belonging to Benghazi
+wrecked on the rocks off the Castle. She had come from Leghorn with a
+general cargo, and anchored off the harbour during a stiff breeze from
+the S.W., the pilot thinking it unsafe to attempt to enter until the
+wind moderated. Her anchors, however, soon gave way, and she drove on
+the rocks, where she soon became a total wreck. Had the crew and the
+people on shore exerted themselves, they might have saved the greater
+part of the cargo; but, with true Mahomedan indifference, they looked on
+until it was too late to save more than one or two boat-loads.
+
+The water in the wells at Benghazi is very brackish; so much so, that
+the inhabitants are obliged to bring water from sweet wells at some
+distance from the town. Some of these are about two miles off, near the
+end of the belt of palm-trees; but the best water comes from the wells
+on the opposite side of the lagoon. It is carried in skins, or small
+breakers, on the backs of camels and donkeys, whose drivers appear to be
+the only industrious class of the whole community.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER V.
+
+
+ON the morning of the 12th December, our other preparations being
+completed, we commenced loading the camels. The distribution of the
+baggage was a very tedious operation, owing chiefly to the quarrelling
+of the drivers with each other, every man trying to get as light a load
+as possible for his own camel. The baggage required on the journey had
+to be kept separate from the rest, and each load had to be divided so as
+to balance on the camel’s back,—a complicated arrangement, which led to
+endless wrangling on the part of the drivers. It was only after
+summoning to our aid the Kaimakam, who threatened them with imprisonment
+and bastinado, that we at last got the caravan under weigh. It consisted
+of ten camels, on two of which our Maltese servants were mounted, four
+camel-drivers and four blacks on foot, and Mr. Cesareo, two guides, and
+ourselves on horseback. We left late in the afternoon, and were
+accompanied some distance by Mr. Crowe, and his interpreter Mr. Levi. It
+was with great regret that we bade him adieu, although little thinking
+that we should never see him again. We had spent twelve days with him
+most pleasantly, and his kind hospitality had made even Benghazi a
+second home to us.
+
+We halted for the night at the “Garden of Osman” mentioned above. This
+is a favourite resting-place for caravans starting from Benghazi, as it
+has a well of excellent water, with which the Arabs fill their “girbehs”
+before proceeding on their journeys. Here we pitched our two tents, one
+for our servants and baggage, and the other for Mr. Cesareo and
+ourselves. The following morning, after filling our water-skins and
+loading the camels, we started at half-past eight, and rode straight
+across the plain in the direction of the hills. Before we had reached
+them, however, the rain, which had been threatening all the morning,
+began to pour in torrents. Further progress was impossible, as the
+camels could hardly keep their feet on the soft slippery ground; and we
+were consequently obliged to halt about the middle of the day at the
+foot of the range of hills known as the Augŭbah of Benghazi. We chose
+the best site for encamping we could find, but had great difficulty in
+pitching our tents, on account of the high wind and the softness of the
+ground, which by this time was saturated with water. We had to make use
+of our storm guys, as the ordinary ones were much too short to keep the
+tents up by themselves. It was nearly evening before we had everything
+snug for the night. Our efforts to light a fire, after innumerable
+failures, were finally successful, and soon after dark we had a splendid
+bonfire, which had a most cheering effect. The appearance of our little
+camp was very striking,—camels kneeling round the tents, horses picketed
+here and there, and groups of wild-looking Arabs crouching near the
+fire, while all around was perfect darkness. Our Barbary mats proved a
+great luxury, as the ground had become a perfect puddle with the
+trampling of men and animals. Before we got under the shelter of the
+tents, we had ample opportunity of testing the utility of the Arab
+burnouses we had bought in Benghazi. The burnous—the origin of the
+graceful one worn by ladies in Europe—is a long grey and white striped
+woollen cloak with a hood, made throughout in one piece, without seams,
+and woven thick and close enough to be waterproof. It is specially
+adapted for riding, as it forms a sort of _tente d’abri_ for both horse
+and horseman. In fine weather it may be rolled up and strapped to the Ds
+of the saddle like a cavalry cloak.
+
+The following day, the 14th, the weather was fine; but we were unable to
+start, as the ground was still too slippery for the soft flat feet of
+the camels. Meantime, two Arabs arrived, who were sent by the Kaimakam
+to act as guides or escort; thus increasing our total number to
+seventeen. We would willingly have dispensed with their presence, as
+they only added to the number dependent on our rather slender stock of
+provisions; but as the Kaimakam insisted on their accompanying us, we
+thought it ungracious to send them back, and allowed them to remain. We
+spent the day pleasantly enough, walking about the neighbouring hills
+and ravines, and shooting partridges. We found neither golden plovers
+nor sand-grouse, although they had been very plentiful near Benghazi.
+
+Next morning, as the weather continued fine, we struck our tents, packed
+up, and started about half-past nine. We ascended the Augŭbah by a
+rugged path winding through a ravine, until we emerged on an extensive
+plateau. For some miles the surface was undulating, with here and there
+patches of trees and brushwood. In many places the landscape was very
+pleasing, and somewhat resembled an English park on a large scale.
+During summer the aspect is very different, as the verdure entirely
+disappears under the scorching rays of the sun. As we proceeded, the
+scene became less and less diversified, until we found ourselves
+traversing what appeared a boundless plain, with neither tree nor shrub
+to be seen. Some two or three miles to our left, the ground rose
+slightly, forming a range of low hills parallel to our route. We saw
+very little game, and were only able to add one partridge to our stock.
+Shortly before sunset, we turned off our track to the low hills on the
+left, where we pitched our tents in a very pretty spot among shrubs and
+small trees, about a hundred yards from a Bedouin encampment. A good
+fire soon cooked our dinner, which, on this occasion, was improved by
+the addition of some mushrooms gathered during the day.
+
+The following morning, the 16th, we started about nine, and continued
+our route across the plain nearly in a due easterly direction. There was
+a strong southerly wind all day, which was so bitterly cold, that we
+were glad to wrap ourselves in our comforters and burnouses for
+protection. We were rather astonished at the time to find the cold so
+piercing; but we afterwards observed that the south wind, proverbially a
+hot one in summer, is invariably the coldest in winter; a fact which may
+be accounted for by the effect of the great tract of elevated land which
+extends far to the southward, compared with the moderating influence of
+the Mediterranean on the north. After riding about eighteen miles, our
+path, for four or five miles, lay through a thick wood of juniper and
+cedar trees, which for a time sheltered us from the biting wind. When we
+had passed the wood, we saw the castle of Merdj about three miles
+distant, near the south-western end of the plain of the same name.
+Shortly after four o’clock we arrived at the Castle, where we were
+warmly welcomed by the Mudir, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha, who had just
+arrived from Barca, a district under his rule, to the southward of
+Benghazi. Our camels did not arrive till after dark.
+
+Hadji Achmet made us as comfortable as possible in his only room, and
+gave us the most sumptuous dinner that could be provided.
+
+During the night the rain began again, and continued at intervals all
+next day, so that we were obliged to remain two days until the ground
+dried. The delay, however, was not unpleasant, as Hadji Achmet did
+everything in his power to make our stay agreeable. He was particularly
+jovial and good-humoured; so much so, that it was impossible to be out
+of spirits in his company. He enjoyed hearing amusing stories, and had a
+fund of them of his own, which he told with great glee. He was descended
+from an old and powerful family in Mesurata, near Tripoli, and as
+commander of the Koralié, had rendered good service to the Sultan’s
+Government during the rebellion of Ghomer. It was by him that Ghomer was
+at last taken and slain.
+
+The castles of Merdj and Ghegheb were built about fifteen years ago by
+the Turks, and are always occupied by one or two companies of regular
+Turkish troops. They were intended as a means of overawing the Arabs,
+and assisting the Mudirs in collecting the tribute. They have utterly
+failed in attaining the former object; but, inasmuch as they afford a
+comparatively safe residence for the Mudir and his money-chest, they may
+be said, in some degree, to have accomplished the latter. The Castle or
+Gŭsr (Arabicè) of Merdj is a quadrangular casemated building with round
+flanking towers at the angles, in each of which an old 9-pounder
+carronade is mounted on a superannuated carriage. The garrison at this
+time consisted of ninety cavalry, fifty infantry, and three officers.
+The room to the left of the entrance is the Mudir’s, that on the right
+the prison, and the remainder barracks and stables. The four marble
+pillars shown in the Plate were found near the spot, and placed here to
+ornament the Mudir’s room. Two of the capitals, of a mixed Corinthian
+order, stand near them at the end of the room; the other two are
+imitated in stucco. The Castle, although very dilapidated in appearance,
+is strong in reality, being built for the most part of squared blocks of
+stone found on the spot. It stands a little elevated above the
+surrounding plain, on a small plateau formerly the site of Barca, an
+offshoot of Cyrene, which attained to considerable size and importance,
+and was one of the five cities which constituted the Pentapolis. Remains
+of the ancient city may be seen in the materials of which the Castle is
+built, and in the walls of the few wretched houses which have sprung up
+near it; but none of them are worthy of any note. Near the gate of the
+Castle, however, there is a deep well lined with masonry, evidently of
+ancient date, which was discovered during the building of the Castle by
+some workmen, who were digging for blocks of stone. It yields an
+abundant supply of water, which, although very brackish, is a great boon
+to the surrounding country during summer.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 6.—CASTLE AND VILLAGE OF MERDJ (BARCA).]
+
+The plain of Merdj is of great extent, measuring upwards of twenty miles
+in length, and from six to eight in breadth. It is perfectly level, and
+is surrounded by ranges of hills, of which those on the east rise to a
+height of about 500 feet above the plain. As seen from the hills, it
+appears to have been at one time the bed of a lake. Its elevation above
+the sea is probably about 1,000 feet. The soil is a deep rich loam,
+about one third of which is under cultivation, and yields abundant crops
+of wheat and barley. The rest of the plain is good grazing land, and is
+much frequented by Arab encampments with their flocks during the early
+part of summer, before the pools which have formed in winter are dried
+up.
+
+The weather having cleared up, we again got the caravan together, and
+started on the morning of the 19th. The ground was still rather soft, so
+that the camels could only walk at a slow and cautious pace. Our kind
+host had loaded us with as many provisions as we could carry; among
+other things, a sheep, bread, butter, and dates, and barley for the
+horses. We shall always have a pleasant recollection of Gŭsr Merdj and
+its hospitable Governor, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha (Pilgrim Achmet the
+Son of the Ruler).
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 7.—MUDIR’S ROOM IN THE CASTLE OF MERDJ.]
+
+After crossing the plain in a north-easterly direction, we reached the
+hills about mid-day. As we approached the verge of the plain, the
+country became well wooded, the hills at the base being covered with
+olives, and higher up with pines and junipers. A large quantity of oil
+might be made every year from the olives; but the Arabs are either
+ignorant of its value or too careless to take the trouble of collecting
+the berries, which are left to be eaten by the goats. The remainder of
+the day’s journey was chiefly through thick woods, in which we saw, for
+the first time, the arbutus, which was then in full bloom, being covered
+with both flower and fruit. The berries are of a bright red colour,
+somewhat resembling strawberries in appearance, and, although not
+luscious, are by no means disagreeable when quite ripe, notwithstanding
+Pliny’s remark that they are called _unedo_, because he who has eaten
+one will never wish to eat another. The bark is useful for tanning
+purposes, and good charcoal has been made from the wood.
+
+After travelling eight hours, we encamped for the night by some wells in
+an open cultivated plain. The camels, as usual, were late in coming up,
+and it was quite dark before we got the tents pitched. While waiting for
+their arrival, we shot a good many golden plover.
+
+The following day, we continued our journey through a very beautiful
+country, the track passing over a succession of hills, from the summits
+of which we had many extensive views. The valleys, enclosed by the well-
+wooded sides of the hills, were frequently quite picturesque. To relieve
+the monotony of the march, we used to ride on some miles ahead of the
+caravan with one or two of the guides, until we reached a likely place
+for game, where, leaving our horses in charge of the guides, we walked
+about the covers shooting what we could find till the caravan came up.
+In this way, we kept up our supplies without being obliged to encroach
+on our small stock of preserved meat. This day we got a couple of hares,
+seven partridges, and twenty-five golden plovers. We encamped at night
+in the bottom of a ravine, where we found some water in the hollows of
+the rock.
+
+Next day, the 21st, we passed over a similar tract of country, the
+features of which, however, became more strongly marked as we advanced,
+the hills becoming higher and steeper, and more frequently intersected
+by rugged ravines. Towards evening, we encamped by the side of an
+ancient hill-fortress, doubtless of Roman construction, called by the
+Arabs Gŭsr Biligadem, which occupies a most commanding position on the
+top of a hill. The scenery in the immediate neighbourhood is very
+beautiful, and the view from the Castle is one of the finest and most
+extensive in the Cyrenaica. The Castle is an oblong building, measuring
+160 feet by 80, with a square flanking tower in the centre of each of
+the longer sides. It is still wonderfully perfect, the walls in some
+parts still standing to a height of 40 feet. Traces of a ditch and
+counterscarp may also be seen on two of its sides. It is built
+throughout of large squared blocks without mortar, and each wall is
+double, consisting, in fact, of two walls built close to each other, but
+without any connecting bond. Over the entrance, there is a double arch,
+the inner one of which is built on the radiating, and the outer on the
+more ancient horizontal principle. Near the Castle, there is a large
+well, now choked up, and a number of tombs cut in the sides of the rock.
+
+Forts in similar positions occur in different parts of the Cyrenaica,
+none of which, however, are nearly so perfect as Biligadem. They were
+most probably built by the Romans soon after they acquired possession of
+the country, and were placed so as to protect the communications between
+the different cities.
+
+The following day, the 22nd, we started as early as possible, in the
+hope of reaching Cyrene before sunset; but, owing to an error on the
+part of the guide, night overtook us about four hours’ distance from our
+destination. Immediately after leaving Biligadem, we descended into a
+deep narrow ravine with rocky sides, called the Wady Il Aggur, the
+bottom of which was covered with pines of immense size. Under the pines,
+there was a perfect thicket of smaller trees and shrubs, such as the
+carub or locust-tree, the juniper, oleander, &c. After winding along
+this Wady for five hours without seeing any possible means of exit, we
+turned up a smaller ravine to our left, and managed to climb to the top.
+Soon afterwards, we passed the Zauyah El Beidah, the only modern
+building we had seen after leaving Benghazi, except the Castle of Merdj.
+A _Zauyah_ in Barbary is a sort of Mahomedan monastery and mosque
+combined. The resident devotees, called _Achwan_, who, except in the
+matter of celibacy, somewhat resemble monks, are under a chief, called
+the _Sheikh El Zauyah_, a man of immense influence, as we afterwards
+learned by most unpleasant experience. They belong to the sect of El
+Senoussy, so called from the name of the founder, who died not many
+years ago. Their chief object appears to be the revival of the
+fanaticism and intolerance of the good old times of the true faith.
+
+As it began to get dark soon after we had passed the Zauyah El Beidah,
+we were obliged to halt and encamp for the night.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 8.
+
+ENCAMPMENT NEAR A ROMAN FORTRESS (GŬSR BILIGADEM)
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+Next morning, the 23rd, we started at nine, and after a three hours’
+ride, arrived at Cyrene soon after midday. It was a cold gusty day, and
+before we had reached our destination, the rain was falling in torrents.
+The mist prevented our seeing to any distance; but the country
+immediately around us, being perfectly destitute of trees and even
+shrubs, looked desolate in the extreme. Meantime, we sought temporary
+shelter from the storm in some rock tombs near the Fountain of Apollo.
+When the rain had somewhat abated, we selected the cleanest and most
+convenient of them for our future residence, and immediately set to work
+to clear out the earth and rubbish with which it was nearly filled. When
+the caravan arrived, some three hours afterwards, the drivers were so
+impatient to be off, that they would not even stay to assist us in
+getting the baggage under shelter. Our first night in our new quarters
+was certainly rather cheerless. Bags and boxes soaked with the rain lay
+in confusion on the muddy floor of the tomb, and no dinner could be had
+for want of a fire to cook it.
+
+We spent the whole of the next day in making our quarters as comfortable
+as possible. The tomb we ourselves occupied was at the bottom of a steep
+hill about 250 yards from the Fountain, and almost overhead there was a
+long range of larger chambers also cut in the rock, which we used as
+servants’ quarters, kitchen, stable, &c. Our room had two doors or
+openings, one of which we built half-way up with stones and mud, leaving
+the upper part open to serve as a window. The mats which we had bought
+at Benghazi made an excellent carpet, and one of them suspended over the
+entrance was a good substitute for a door. In the course of time, we
+gradually improved our quarters by paving the entrance with tiles,
+making steps up to the kitchen, &c. We contrived to build quite a
+respectable door with rough planks cut from the trunks of trees.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 9.—INTERIOR OF OUR TOMB OF RESIDENCE.]
+
+Having found on our arrival at Tripoli that our firman gave us authority
+to dig for sculptures, and remove such as we found, we were anxious
+before leaving Benghazi, to engage a few workmen to accompany us. Mr.
+Crowe accordingly got us four negroes, whose liberation from slavery he
+had recently obtained from the Kaimakam. Three of them having only just
+been brought from the interior, could hardly speak a word of Arabic.
+They seemed very glad to go with us, and all went well till we reached
+Merdj, where we were told one morning, to our astonishment, that they
+had enlisted as soldiers. Our friend, the Mudir, immediately ordered
+them to be brought before him, but the only explanation he could get
+from them was, that they preferred becoming soldiers to being killed.
+They appeared to be highly indignant about something, and determined not
+to go on with us. Some soldiers were also interrogated, but no
+explanation could be elicited. It afterwards came out, however, that
+some of the black soldiers had assured them that we were taking them
+into the desert to cut their throats, and look for treasure with their
+blood. The Mudir, with great difficulty, induced them to remain with us,
+but it was some days before they were quite convinced of the innocence
+of our intentions.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 10.—OUR WORKMEN—SALEH, MOHAMMED AND ABDULLAH.
+
+_From a Photograph._]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 11.
+
+WESTERN HILL OF CYRENE, WITH ENTRANCE TO THE FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+THE site of the ancient city of Cyrene is called by the Arabs,
+_Shahat_—a name which is rather indefinite, as it includes, besides the
+city, the adjoining district to the east, north, and west, that to the
+southward being called _Grennah_, a corruption evidently of the original
+Greek name. As the Fountain of Apollo is well known throughout the
+Cyrenaica, the traveller desirous of visiting Cyrene should ask for
+_’Ain Shahat_, the Fountain of Shahat.
+
+To understand the position of Cyrene, it is necessary to consider the
+general configuration of the country. From near Benghazi on the west to
+beyond Derna on the east, a range of hills about 1,000 feet high runs
+nearly parallel to the shore, at a distance from it varying from one to
+three miles. This range in the neighbourhood of Cyrene forms the
+northern or seaward boundary of a belt of table-land about eight miles
+in breadth, the southern or inland boundary of which is a second range
+of hills parallel to the first, and rising about 1,000 feet above the
+table-land. An upper plateau extends many miles inland from the summit
+of this interior range, at an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet above the
+level of the sea.
+
+The lower range is exceedingly steep, and in many parts precipitous; so
+that, except at particular places, it is quite impassable. The upper
+range, on the other hand, although steep, is not precipitous, and is
+intersected by numerous ravines or _wadys_ leading from the plateau
+above. Thus the face of this range presents to the eye a succession of
+rounded ridges, with intermediate furrows of various depths. Cyrene
+stands on the edge of the upper plateau, and occupies the summits of two
+of the ridges and the upper part of the intervening furrow.
+
+One of the principal features of this site is this furrow or ravine
+between the two hills on which the city is built. It begins near the
+eastern wall of the city, and widens as it descends towards the face of
+the hills, where it is bridged across, so to speak, by a massive
+retaining wall, behind which it is partially filled up and levelled, so
+as to form an artificial platform. The Fountain of Apollo here issues
+from a passage in the rock on the western side, and the water, after
+traversing the platform, falls over the retaining wall into the ravine
+below.
+
+This copious fountain of delicious water doubtless led the original
+Greek colonists to settle at Cyrene. The excavated channel from which it
+flows is in many respects so remarkable, that it deserves more than a
+cursory notice. The following description, which was verified by Captain
+Porcher, is given by Beechey:—
+
+“The channel is formed entirely in the rock from which the stream
+issues, and runs in an irregular course for nearly a quarter of a mile
+into the bowels of the mountain. The sides and roof of the passage are
+flat, where time and the action of the current (which is very strong)
+have not worn them away; but the bottom is encumbered with stones,
+bedded fast in a quantity of clay which has accumulated about it and
+against the sides. The general height of this subterranean channel is
+scarcely five feet, an elevation which we found rather inconvenient, for
+it obliged us to stoop a good deal in advancing; and as it would not
+have been possible to examine the place properly, or, indeed, to have
+preserved the light, without keeping the head and body in an upright
+position, we usually found the water making higher encroaches than its
+chilling cold rendered agreeable.
+
+“In some places, however, where there appear to have been originally
+flaws or fissures in the rock, the roof was irregular, and there was
+room to stand upright, an occurrence of which we very gladly availed
+ourselves, to the great relief of our knees. We found the average width
+from three to four feet, although in the places just mentioned it was
+occasionally as much as six feet; and were it not for the clay which has
+been collected against the sides, we should often have suffered from
+their roughness. From the irregularity of the course of the passage we
+were obliged to take bearings very often, and at each time we stopped
+for this purpose we took down the distance, measured with our chain,
+between the point we stopped at and the last; so that, after much
+trouble, we succeeded in obtaining a tolerably correct plan of the
+whole. The length and course of the channel will be seen in the plan of
+Cyrene. Within forty feet of the end of the channel (that is to say,
+about 1,300 feet from its beginning at the foot of the cliff) it becomes
+so low that a man cannot advance further without creeping upon his hands
+and knees, and then finishes in a small aperture scarcely a foot in
+diameter, beyond which, of course, it is impossible to penetrate.
+
+“We observed, after continuing our route for some time, that the clay
+which we have already mentioned had been washed down in considerable
+quantities by the current, was occasionally plastered against the sides
+of the passage, and smoothed very carefully with the palm of the hand;
+in this we thought we perceived that something like letters had been
+scratched, which we should scarcely have thought it worth while to
+examine, had we not been curious to know what Europeans had visited the
+place before us. Our first conclusion was that some of our own party had
+taken this method of writing their names on the wall; and it never for a
+moment occurred to us, that the characters, whatever they were, which
+might be traced on so perishable a surface, were of more than very
+recent formation. Our surprise may, in consequence, be readily imagined,
+when we found, on a closer examination, that the walls of the place were
+covered with Greek inscriptions; some of which, from their dates, must
+have remained on the wet clay for more than fifteen hundred years. They
+consist, of course, chiefly in a collection of names; many of which are
+Roman, and the earliest of the most conspicuous dates, which we remarked
+and copied, were those of the reign of Diocletian. They are, in general,
+very rudely scratched, with a point of any kind (a sword, or a knife,
+perhaps, or the stone of a ring) and often with the point of the
+fingers.
+
+“Several hours had elapsed from the time of our entering the channel to
+that of our reappearance at its mouth; and we really believe that the
+Arabs of the place, who had collected themselves round the fountain to
+see us come out, were extremely disappointed to find that no accident
+had befallen any of our party, in spite of the demons so confidently
+believed to haunt its dark and mysterious recesses. For our own parts,
+we could not help laughing very heartily at the ridiculous appearance
+which each of us exhibited on first coming to the light, covered as we
+were from head to foot with the brown clay accumulated in the channel of
+the fountain, which had adhered too closely to be washed away by the
+stream, although its current, as we have mentioned, was extremely
+rapid.”
+
+The mouth of the channel is in an open chamber cut in the face of the
+cliff, the bottom of which is about five feet lower than the bed of the
+stream, which falls over in a little cascade. Immediately above the fall
+the bottom of the channel is deepened and widened so as to form a cavity
+about six feet long and two feet deep. Filled, as it always was, with
+the clear, cool water of the fountain, a more delicious bath could
+hardly be imagined. It was, in fact, a perfect luxury during the long
+summer of our residence at Cyrene. The water was of the uniform
+temperature of 55° Fahrenheit, fresh and cool in summer, and not too
+cold in winter.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 12.
+
+FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+The face of the cliff over the entrance to the chambers is marked by a
+channel cut in the rock, into which the pediment of a portico appears to
+have been inserted, as shown in the sketch Plate 11. On a part of the
+cliff, at right angles to this face, and immediately over the entrance
+to the fountain is the following inscription:—
+
+  LΙΓΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΣΣΩΤΑ
+
+  ΙΕΡΕΙΤΕΥΩΝΤΑΝΚΡΑΝΑΝ
+
+  ΕΠΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ
+
+Λιγ Διονύσιος Σώτα ἱερειτεύων τὰν κράναν ἐπεσκεύασε. This inscription is
+published, Böckh, Corpus Inscriptionum, III. No. 5134.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 13.
+
+GENERAL VIEW OF ONE OF THE HILLS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+Nearly parallel to the centre ravine, is another bounding the city on
+the south, called the _Wady Bil Ghadir_, or Valley of Verdure, which
+extends across the lower plateau to the sea. Several fountains pour
+their waters into it at Cyrene, so that even in the height of summer it
+quite justifies the name it bears. Its western side, which is very steep
+and rugged, is clad with fine old cypresses, and lower down, the myrtle
+and oleander grow in luxuriant abundance. The form of the city is nearly
+that of a right-angled isosceles triangle, the hypothenuse of which,
+facing the N.W., is formed by the general line of the face of the hills
+overlooking the lower plateau. Of the two sides containing the right
+angle, the southern is formed by the Wady Bil Ghadir, and the eastern,
+by an artificial line on the upper plateau, between the Wady Bil Ghadir
+and the face of the Cyrene range.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 14.—LARGE TOMB AT THE EASTERN END OF THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS.]
+
+From this description, it will be seen that the city is naturally
+defended on two of its three sides, by a deep rugged ravine and the
+steep faces of a high range of hills. The remaining side, the east, is
+defended by a wall still distinctly traceable, the continuation of which
+is so carried along the edge of the Wady Bil Ghadir, and over the brows
+of the hills into the central ravine, where it joins the massive
+retaining wall already mentioned. The _enceinte_ being thus completed,
+the summit of the western hill was chosen with great judgment for the
+citadel. On its exterior sides are the Wady Bil Ghadir, several hundred
+feet deep, and the steep face of the hill itself cut into a succession
+of escarps and terraces of rock. Quite unassailable on two of its sides,
+and nearly so on a third, the citadel is cut off from the rest of the
+city by an inner wall of defence, well provided with flanking towers,
+which is carried along the edge of the centre ravine and across the hill
+to the Wady Bil Ghadir, where its junction with the main wall of the
+city is marked by the conspicuous ruins of a lofty tower.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 15.—TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS.]
+
+By far the most striking remains of the former grandeur of the city are
+the cemeteries, which consist, for the most part, of tombs hewn out of
+the solid rock, many of which are still, in very perfect condition. They
+extend for miles in every direction outside the walls of the city, but
+the most remarkable are in the steep face of the range of hills
+overlooking the lower plateau, and in the sides of the ravines by which
+this range is intersected. The cemetery in the Wady Bil Ghadir, and on
+the face of the hill beyond it, is the most picturesque, and probably
+the most ancient, while that immediately below the city, to the N. and
+N.E., is the most extensive. The tombs on the upper plateau, to the
+southward of the city, are generally built above ground, except in the
+sides of small ravines, where sepulchres are excavated in the scarped
+face of the rock.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 16.
+
+RANGE OF TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+The tombs on the faces of the hills are generally arranged in long
+terraces, the rock being cut or stepped into a series of perpendicular
+escarps in which the tombs are excavated. The roads which follow the
+terraces in front of the escarps, are consequently flanked on one side
+by tombs for a considerable distance from the city. Besides these rows
+or streets of tombs, others occur irregularly, where the formation of
+the rock happens to be adapted for their excavation. There are some,
+also, wholly or partially built, and on the slopes between the terraces
+the rock is frequently cut into groups of single sarcophagi. The
+excavated tombs are of almost endless variety. In some, the façade is
+cut out like the front of a small temple, with columns, architraves,
+pediments, &c., nearly all of which are of the Doric order. The columns,
+with the recess behind, form a portico over the entrance to the tomb,
+which generally consists of a rectangular chamber, with recesses round
+the sides for the reception of the sarcophagi.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 17.
+
+INTERIOR OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 18.—TOMBS TO THE WESTWARD OF WADY BIL GHADIR.
+
+_From a Photograph._]
+
+In tombs of this description, but without porticoes, the entrance is
+simply a doorway cut in the face of the rock, in some instances
+perfectly plain, in others embellished with lintels and pilasters, or
+with busts, as in Plate 19. The interior of this one is shown in Plate
+33, and shows that the peculiar form of the chamber depended on the
+soundness of the rock. The chamber itself is usually without ornament of
+any kind, but in many tombs its walls are adorned with fresco-painting
+or carving. The sarcophagi are frequently arranged in tiers, in long
+narrow recesses, with three or four placed lengthways in each tier, as
+shown in Plates 20 and 32. In some cases, the sarcophagus is simply a
+trough, like a horse’s manger, cut longitudinally in a niche in the side
+of the chamber, as shown in the section (Plates 17 and 31); in others,
+where the tomb consists of a single chamber, or a succession of
+chambers, without recesses or niches, the sarcophagi are either placed
+on the floor or dug out of the rock beneath it, like shallow graves.
+
+The above are the principal varieties of the construction of what may be
+called the _chamber_ tombs.
+
+Among the painted tombs, the only one that remains to exhibit the skill
+of the artist is situated on the side of a ravine, in the middle of the
+Northern Necropolis, and immediately under a range of tombs shown in
+Plate 16. The exterior is perfectly plain, and contains only a small
+chamber with a sepulchral vault in the centre. All the walls were
+originally covered with paintings; and by the appearance of the colours
+that are still left, and come out, when wetted, as bright as the day
+they were put on, show that the former inhabitants must have understood
+the art to perfection, as the damp of so many centuries has not yet
+obliterated them.
+
+On one side is a procession, composed of thirty-six figures, performing
+a solemn march; some having on rich dresses, whilst others are covered
+with very little drapery, giving the idea of the lower classes of the
+people of Cyrene taking their subordinate part in the festival. At the
+head of the painting is a piece of furniture, near which are some young
+people employed in cooking,—no doubt, showing what followed their
+popular festivals. Near the end are three mitred people standing near a
+pedestal, and a table covered with crowns and palm-leaves. A number of
+Greek names are scratched over the picture, denoting, probably, the
+people shown in the drawing.
+
+The paintings on the opposite side to this have nearly disappeared, and
+the other two are occupied with hunting scenes, and a variety of games.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 19.—A TOMB EMBELLISHED WITH FIGURES IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS.]
+
+In one part a deer and hares are seen escaping from dogs, and a hunter
+in the act of letting loose another. Near this there is a group of
+wilder animals, such as a bull attacked by a lion, a leopard and gazelle
+chased by dogs, and spears flying about in all directions. These seem to
+allude to the worship of Diana, one of the principal divinities of the
+Cyrenians.
+
+On the remaining side are gladiators attacking each other with short
+swords, and defended by shields,—boxing, wrestling, and chariot-races.
+
+These last may be particularly noticed, as the Cyrenians were extremely
+eminent for their equestrian talents, and especially for their skill in
+charioteering; and seem to have excelled all the neighbouring nations so
+much in this sport, that they sought to perpetuate their fame by having
+their coins struck with them.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 20.
+
+TOMB FOR 105 SARCOPHAGI IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+All these paintings were published by Pacho, as well as others that have
+now disappeared; and, to give the reader some idea of how these tombs
+were formerly ornamented, and the expense the inhabitants must have
+incurred to embellish this city of their dead, we will give a short
+account of one that was seen both by Pacho and Beechey. A series of
+paintings were found on the metopes of the frieze in the interior, and
+the walls were coloured light green, making the chamber appear as though
+it was intended more for a habitation for the living than a receptacle
+for the dead. These appear to have been the different occupations of a
+black slave. First, a friendly conversation; then the education of a
+young girl; the pride of dress; the relaxation of the swing; the bath,
+so necessary in this warm climate; and, lastly, the death-bed on which
+the negress is laid, with her eyes closed, and the white Cyrenian
+standing by her side in the attitude of grief, lamenting her decease.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 21.
+
+INTERIOR OF A PAINTED TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+By the description of these two tombs the reader can easily understand
+what a magnificent necropolis this must formerly have been; and when the
+exteriors, as well as the interiors, were ornamented with sculpture,
+combined with the beautiful scenery around, the traveller would have
+been well repaid by a visit to it.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 22.—INTERIOR OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS.]
+
+In Plate 21 is shown the interior of a tomb in the Northern Necropolis,
+where the painting is still very perfect and the colours bright.
+
+In Plate 17 is a highly ornamented tomb adjoining the Kenissieh, with
+the height of eleven feet. The shells over three of the sarcophagi are
+cut out of the solid rock, and are in as good a state of preservation as
+when they were first sculptured. The niche on the right and the nearest
+to the entrance was ornamented round the arch with a band of bright
+vermilion, and the centre filled up with garlands, birds, and three
+figures, the centre and largest one with wings.
+
+In Plate 22 is seen a smaller tomb, also with shells more gracefully
+shaped, and equally in as good a state of preservation.
+
+Quarries were met with in many places, and these, after the buildings in
+the vicinity had been erected, and when no longer required, were also
+converted into tombs, according to the general practice of the Greeks.
+Plate 23 shows the interior of one that has been used for this purpose,
+situated on the upper part of the hill in the Northern Necropolis. It
+had a large chamber measuring 27½ feet in length, and 13 feet in
+breadth.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 23.—INTERIOR OF A TOMB CUT IN THE SIDE OF A QUARRY
+IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS.]
+
+A class, perhaps not less numerous, consists of tombs without chambers,
+the sarcophagus recesses being cut directly into the face of the rock.
+These recesses, which contain several tiers of sarcophagi, like those
+already described (Plates 20 and 32), run into the rock perpendicular to
+the line of the escarp, or nearly so. Each tomb consists of from one to
+ten or twelve such recesses, separated from each other by thin
+partitions. Their fronts are quite as varied as those of the chamber
+ones, some being perfectly plain, while others have the ends of the
+partitions made to represent columns or pilasters, surmounted by
+architrave, frieze, and cornice. In some tombs of this description,
+where the rock fails, the _Order_ is completed with masonry. In the
+western cemetery, many of these _recess_ tombs, if we may so call them,
+are provided with porticoes like those already mentioned, and
+consequently have an outer façade with columns, and an inner one with
+pilasters, like the front of a Greek temple. The inner façades, not
+being exposed to the action of the weather, are still in an almost
+perfect state of preservation. Even in the minutest detail of the
+architecture they are finished with the greatest care and nicety, the
+fluting of the pilasters, the moulding of the cornice, &c., having that
+peculiarly delicate sharpness for which the buildings of the Greeks are
+so remarkable. Plate 37 represents one of these internal façades,
+showing the colours as they still exist.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 24.
+
+INTERIOR OF A LARGE TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 25.
+
+TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+In tombs of all kinds the entrances to the chambers, and the openings of
+the recesses, have been closed by single slabs of stone, either quite
+plain or panelled like a door.
+
+The tombs are as various in size as in design. In some, the chamber is
+not more than six feet square, and hardly high enough to stand upright
+in, while others may be found with a total length of seventy, and a
+height of from ten to fifteen feet.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 26.—TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS (CALLED BY THE
+ARABS “KENISSIEH”).]
+
+One of this length is shown in Plates 24 and 35, which was the longest
+we saw for a single tomb. A short distance from this one, higher up the
+hill, and flanking the path that led to Marsa Sousah, was a much more
+extensive range of tombs, which were called by the Arabs the Kenissieh,
+and seems from the great number of sarcophagi to have been used as a
+public cemetery. A plan of the interior has been given by Pacho, and the
+exterior is shown in Plate 26, and extended to a much greater depth into
+the side of the hill, as it measured 128 feet by 68 feet in breadth. In
+the interior we found a large marble sarcophagus, and two marble
+pedestals with the following inscriptions:—
+
+  ΑΡΓΕΙΟΣ    ΑΓΑΘΟΚΛΕ
+
+  ΕΝΙΟΣ      LΚ
+
+  ΑΡΓΕΙΟΣ
+
+  ΔΕΙΝ
+
+The _built_ tombs are constructed on the same principles as the
+excavated ones. The greater number of them contain two compartments,
+similar to the recesses, with four sarcophagi in two tiers in each
+compartment (Plates 28 and 36); but many other kinds occur, some of
+which are of great size. Unlike the rock tombs, which from their nature
+are almost indestructible, most of these are now in ruins.
+
+Fewer inscriptions exist in the tombs than might have been expected.
+Those which we found were generally only a list of names.
+
+The sites of the cemeteries seem to have been chosen with great care, as
+they occupy many of the finest positions around the city. Those on the
+faces of the hills command a magnificent view of the lower plateau,
+bounded in the distance by the sea. One of these is shown in Plate 27.
+It is situated to the westward of the Temple of Apollo, and immediately
+below the theatre in that quarter, and had the finest external façade.
+It was originally ornamented by a colonnade of six pillars, 75 feet in
+length, and by its size and finish was doubtless intended for some
+family of importance. The principal room measured 41 feet by 37 feet,
+with a height of 15 feet, and in it were found fragments of marble
+sarcophagi, with elaborate bas-reliefs. It is now used by the Arabs as a
+large granary for their corn, and has lost some of its beauty in
+consequence of the falling away of the middle part of the colonnade from
+the rock to which it was joined. The ravines, also, which have been
+selected are remarkable for their picturesque beauty. On the upper
+plateau, to the southward and eastward of the city, where most of the
+built tombs are to be found, every undulation of the surface is taken
+advantage of. In addition to the large cemeteries in the more immediate
+neighbourhood of the city, the roads in all directions are flanked by
+tombs for several miles, like the Via Appia, at Rome.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 27.—LARGE TOMB ON THE FACE OF THE WESTERN HILL OF
+CYRENE.]
+
+The various plans and sketches we have given will, it is hoped, enable
+the reader to form a pretty accurate idea of the appearance of these
+truly wonderful cemeteries. In regard to extent, variety, and wonderful
+preservation, the Necropolis of Cyrene, as a whole, is probably quite
+unrivalled.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 28.
+
+BUILT TOMB ON THE SOUTH-WEST SIDE OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+Of the city itself very little remains to be seen. A few walls cropping
+a foot or two above the surface of the ground, and some broken columns,
+mutilated statues, and blocks of stone strewn about in different places,
+are almost the only objects that attract the attention of the traveller
+on first walking over the site of the city; but many traces of former
+buildings are discovered on a more minute examination of the ground. As
+already stated, a central valley traverses the city from south-east to
+north-west, dividing it into two portions, the Eastern and Western. Of
+the two, although nearly equal in extent, the Western contains by far
+the greater number of remains of ancient buildings; but the part of the
+city most thickly covered with ruins is the artificial platform at the
+mouth of the ravine, in front of the Fountain of Apollo. On the south-
+eastern side of the city, around the head of the valley, the ground is
+covered with ruins of a much later period. Their general style and
+appearance leave little doubt of their being the remains of the
+Christian city of Cyrene, in the time of the Byzantine empire.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 29.
+
+RUINS OF THE CHRISTIAN CITY OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+We shall presently have occasion to describe the remains of the
+principal buildings, in giving an account of our excavations.
+
+Many of the ancient roads can be easily traced for several miles from
+the city. The one to Apollonia, the seaport of Cyrene, is quite distinct
+the whole way, a distance of about twelve miles. Passing the city wall
+on the side of the eastern hill, opposite the Fountain of Apollo, it
+descends to the lower plateau by a uniform incline about two miles in
+length, through the north-eastern cemetery, on the face of the range.
+For the greater part of the descent it is made by cutting into the side
+of the hill, the escarp thus formed being taken advantage of for the
+excavation of tombs, as already explained. Where a sufficient width is
+not obtained by simply cutting into the rock, the road is widened by
+embanking and revetting the lower side. In the descent of the lower
+range, the road is similarly constructed. Great skill is shown by the
+way in which it is laid out, so as to reduce the steepness of the
+gradient as much as possible. Another road, similar in every respect to
+this one, leaves the city at the large retaining wall at the mouth of
+the centre Wady, and descends to the lower plateau along the face of the
+western hill. Many roads also exist on the comparatively level ground of
+the upper plateau. Of these, the most important is the one by which we
+first approached the city, and which, without doubt, was the great
+highway of the west leading to Barca, Ptolemais, Teuchira, and Berenice.
+It enters the city by a gateway in the southern wall, near the head of
+the Wady Bil Ghadir. But perhaps the most remarkable road, if we
+consider the care and labour shown in its construction, is the one
+leading down the Wady Bil Ghadir, and along the face of the hills to the
+westward of the city. It leaves the city by the gate of the western
+road; whence, after making a sudden bend to the north, it follows the
+bottom of the Wady to near its mouth. In one place, where the bottom of
+the ravine is very narrow, the rock is cut away like a wall on each side
+to make room for the road. At this point, and at intervals lower down,
+may be seen the remains of an aqueduct cut in the rock to convey the
+water of the various fountains in the valley round the face of the
+citadel hill. It could not possibly have led to the city itself, and was
+therefore most probably made for the irrigation of gardens on a lower
+level. The greater part of it is an open conduit cut in the face of the
+rock; but at some points it is cut like a small tunnel.
+
+On the south of the citadel, where the ravine approaches the face of the
+range, its bed falls abruptly to the level of the lower plateau, causing
+the stream from the fountains above to pour over the rocks in a
+succession of waterfalls. The road, which to this point had followed the
+bottom of the Wady, had consequently to be turned to the left along the
+face of the hill, which at this corner becomes a sheer precipice both
+above and below. The road is carried round it by means of a huge
+retaining wall built up to the proper level from the bottom of the
+cliff. It is still nearly perfect throughout its entire length, except
+at the end in the ravine, where a few of the stones have been displaced.
+About the middle of the wall, the cliff recedes some 30 or 40 feet, and
+as the wall is carried straight across, a platform of considerable size
+is thereby formed. Here a copious fountain of delicious water issues
+from a cavity in the face of the cliff, from which a small aqueduct cut
+in the rock runs along the side of the road for several miles. Close to
+the fountain it was formerly hollowed out into a series of troughs, so
+arranged that, by the overflow of each passing to the next, they were
+always full,—a slight indication of the attention paid by the Cyrenians
+to the wants of the horses, for which their country was so celebrated.
+One can easily fancy the citizens of Cyrene halting in their evening
+drives at this beautiful spot to water their horses and enjoy the
+extensive view of the magnificent scenery around. On one hand is the
+high and rugged face of the cliff overhanging the ravine below; on the
+other the steep hill of Cyrene rising from the beautiful valley of
+verdure at its base; while far below lies the varied surface of the
+lower plateau, stretching away for miles to the dark blue line of sea
+beyond.
+
+The following graphic description of this scene is given by Beechey:—
+
+“The steep sides of the descent are thickly overgrown with the most
+beautiful flowering shrubs and creepers, and tall trees are growing in
+the wildest forms and positions above and below the roads. The Duke of
+Clarence (when the choice of his death was proposed to him) had a fancy
+to be drowned in a butt of Malmsey: and we think, if we found ourselves
+in a similar dilemma, that we should pitch upon some part of this
+charming ravine, as the spot from which we could hurl ourselves through
+myrtles and oleanders into the pure stream which dashes below, with more
+pleasure than one could leap with from life into death in most other
+places that we know of. We must, however, confess that, in passing along
+the dangerous parts of the galleries here alluded to, no such fancy ever
+entered our heads; and we took especial care, notwithstanding the beauty
+of the descent, to keep closer to the high rock on one side of the road
+than to the edge of the charming precipice on the other.”
+
+From this point the road winds along the face of the hill towards the
+westward, gradually descending to the level of the plain. Near the
+platform it is flanked on the left by a most picturesque row of
+excavated tombs, the interior façade of one is given in Plate 37. Before
+reaching the plain, the road crosses a small ravine, which contains a
+larger number of highly finished tombs than any other part of the
+Necropolis. One of them, published by Beechey, had a suite of
+allegorical figures painted on the metopes of the inner façade; but on
+visiting it we were much disappointed to find the beautiful front
+completely destroyed, the whole of the entablature being roughly cut
+away, evidently for the purpose of obtaining the paintings.[2] It is to
+be hoped that they at least were safely removed, and that this beautiful
+tomb was not destroyed altogether in vain. It is, doubtless, right and
+proper that the remains of ancient art brought to light by excavation,
+or which, from their position, are liable at any moment to destruction,
+should be removed to a place of safety, where they may be studied and
+admired; but it is certainly carrying out this practice to an
+unwarrantable extent to destroy a beautiful structure that has survived
+the ravages of two thousand years, for the sake of what by itself is of
+comparatively little value.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 30.
+
+WADY MŬCHGŬN, TWO MILES TO THE WESTWARD OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 31.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF AN ORNAMENTED AND PAINTED TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS. BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.
+
+Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 32.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS, CAPABLE OF HOLDING
+105 SARCOPHAGI. BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 33.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS. BY COMMANDER E. A.
+PORCHER R.N.
+
+_Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen_]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 34.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS. BY COMMANDER E. A.
+PORCHER R.N.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 35.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS. BY COMMANDER E. A.
+PORCHER R.N.
+
+_Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen_]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 36.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF A BUILT TOMB ON THE S.W. SIDE OF THE CITY. BY COMMANDER
+E. A. PORCHER R.N.
+
+Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 37.
+
+ELEVATION OF THE INTERNAL FACADE OF A TOMB IN THE WESTERN NECROPOLIS OF
+CYRENE. Shewing the Colours as they now exist, by Commander E. A.
+Porcher R.N.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.]
+
+About a mile from the face of the range, the Wady Bil Ghadir is joined
+in the lower plateau by the continuation of the central ravine of the
+city. The space thereby enclosed is an almost perfectly level plain,
+about a mile in length and three-quarters of a mile in breadth. The soil
+is exceedingly rich, and yields at the present day the finest crops of
+grain in the country. Spread like a map at the base of the hills,
+directly in front of the city, it seems specially suited for a large
+ornamental garden, and was most probably laid out as such by the
+inhabitants of Cyrene. It lies immediately below the Fountain of Apollo,
+and an aqueduct, as we have already mentioned, conveyed to it the stream
+from the fountains of the Wady Bil Ghadir; so that there was a
+sufficient supply of water available for its irrigation even during the
+droughts of summer. It is, moreover, protected by the high hills of
+Cyrene from the scorching blast of the _Gibli_—a wind from the desert
+that not unfrequently destroys all the vegetation exposed to it. With
+its trees and flowers thus perpetually refreshed and protected, it must
+have formed one of the most pleasing features in the beautiful landscape
+seen from the city and terraces above.
+
+Besides the Wady Bil Ghadir, two other ravines in the immediate
+neighbourhood of Cyrene are remarkable for the picturesque grandeur of
+their scenery, the Wady Mûchgûn to the west, and the Wady Leboaitha to
+the east of the city. The former, the widest and deepest Wady in the
+range, is filled with fine old olive-trees, many of which are covered in
+summer with clusters of honeysuckle.
+
+The upper plateau around Cyrene is destitute of trees. Hardly a shrub is
+to be seen in this direction within three or four miles of the city.
+Grass, however, grows luxuriantly, so that the surface of the ground,
+except during the heat of summer, quite resembles the green sward of old
+pasture-land in England.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 38.—TOMBS ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF WADY BIL GHADIR.]
+
+The comparatively limited scope of the present work not admitting of
+further illustration, the reader is referred to the archives of the
+British Museum for other interesting details of this Necropolis.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+HAVING fairly established ourselves in our sepulchral residence, and
+made every arrangement for our future comfort that the means at our
+disposal rendered possible, we began to examine the remains of the city.
+Our attention was at first specially directed to the tombs, in which we
+hoped to discover small ornaments, vases, terra-cotta figures, and other
+_portable_ objects. We were greatly assisted during our first rambles
+over the ruins by an Arab of considerable influence in the Cyrenaica,
+Mohammed El Adouly. He was a native of Benghazi, but having married the
+daughter of one of the Sheikhs of the Haasa tribe, who occupy the
+country in the neighbourhood of Cyrene, he kept his flocks, and spent
+the greater part of the year, in that district. One of the letters given
+us by the Sheikhs assembled at the Consulate was addressed to him, and
+Mr. Crowe, with whom he was well acquainted, had also sent him a special
+message regarding us. The day after our arrival at Cyrene he paid us a
+long visit, bringing with him the welcome present of a camel-load of
+milk and butter. He proved our constant friend during the whole time of
+our residence in the country, and on many occasions was of great service
+to us. Not being entangled in the perpetual feuds of the rival tribes
+around us, he was equally respected by all, so that we could hardly have
+had a safer friend. He was, besides, a man of much shrewdness and
+intelligence, and had profited greatly by his travels in early life. He
+had more than once been engaged in slave expeditions to Mourzook and
+Soudan, and had visited Constantinople, Alexandria, and Malta. He was
+withal a good Mussulman, although he confessed to having in his younger
+days been latitudinarian in his conduct, if not in his creed. In person
+he was a man of immense size, and had altogether a most imposing
+appearance.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 39.—MOHAMMED EL ADOULY.
+
+_From a Photograph._]
+
+The day immediately after his first visit he returned to show us the
+“lions” of the place. After we had seen a few of the tombs in the north-
+eastern cemetery, he took us to the hill beyond the Wady Bil Ghadir,
+where he showed us an excavated tomb in which a number of objects had
+been discovered by M. Bourville. It was a large square chamber cut in
+the rock, with the ruins of some kind of building in front: two marble
+statues without heads were lying near it.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 40.
+
+PLAN OF CYRENE
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+As every _open_ tomb had doubtless been rifled long ago, we were
+anxious, if possible, to discover some under the surface of the soil, in
+the hope that they might still remain intact. In many of those cut in
+the scarped sides of the hills we found the fronts partially covered by
+the earth washed down from above, and therefore thought it probable that
+others existed which had been wholly covered. We accordingly looked for
+a place where such tombs were likely to be found, and at last chose, as
+the most promising spot, a heap of ruins lying against an artificial
+escarp near the tomb opened by M. Bourville.
+
+The following day, the 27th of December, we commenced our excavations at
+this place. At first the work went on but slowly, owing to the
+inexperience of the blacks, who were quite ignorant of the use of the
+tools, which they now handled for the first time in their lives. For
+some time, therefore, we had to do the most of the digging ourselves.
+Although it may seem a very simple matter to teach an able-bodied man to
+use a pickaxe and a shovel, it is a much more tedious process than may
+be supposed. As every railway contractor knows, a “navvy” has to serve a
+good long apprenticeship before he is fit to take his place in a regular
+gang of excavators.
+
+Our great difficulty, however, with the blacks was to make them
+understand the use of a crowbar. When a stone was too heavy to lift, or
+was so placed that it could not be rolled, their only resource was to
+try to break it. It was long before we could get them to see the power
+of the lever, and still longer before they could apply it themselves.
+After five days’ hard work, in clearing away the ruins of the building
+from the face of the escarp, we reached the rock at the bottom, about
+twelve feet below the original surface, but without finding an entrance
+as we had expected. As it was evident that nothing was to be discovered
+here, we left this place on the 1st of January, 1861, and removed to a
+rock-tomb in the Wady Bil Ghadir, where the absence of any remains of
+buildings made the work much easier. After a day and a half’s digging we
+came to a doorway, five or six feet below the surface, closed by a
+single slab of stone, of which one of the upper corners was broken away
+sufficiently to allow a man to enter. Inside we found a plain square
+chamber with recesses, partially filled with the earth that had been
+washed in through the doorway. It was impossible to enter the chamber
+without breaking the long, thin stalactites which covered the roof and
+almost touched the floor. Nothing, however, remained either in the
+chamber or the recesses—a result fatal to our hopes of discoveries in
+the tombs, as it proved that this one, at least, had been rifled, not
+recently, but before it became buried, a sufficient period having
+afterwards elapsed to allow the formation of the stalactites. This being
+the case, we concluded that other tombs, even if now covered with earth,
+had probably shared the same fate.
+
+For this reason we abandoned the tombs, and turned our attention to the
+remains of buildings within the walls of the city. After a careful
+examination of several places, we chose a prominent site near the
+southern gate, marked in the plan “Temple of Bacchus.” In the centre of
+a large oblong platform, enclosed by a massive colonnade and a well-
+built _peribolus_ wall, the position of the temple itself was marked by
+a low mound of earth, with a few blocks of stone and marble showing here
+and there above the surface. The exterior of the two side-walls of the
+temple had been partially laid bare by a former excavator, M. Bourville,
+as the Arabs informed us. Part of the gateway in the southern
+_peribolus_ wall is still standing, and is one of the most conspicuous
+objects in Cyrene. The ruins of the colonnade, which is of the Doric
+order, are nearly all above ground.
+
+We began work at this temple on the afternoon of the 2nd, by digging
+along the outside of the western wall. The earth was filled with
+fragments of pottery and blocks of stone belonging to the building.
+Among the latter were portions of a frieze with triglyphs, a proof that
+the temple was of the Doric order. The stone was the same as in almost
+all the buildings in Cyrene,—a friable yellow sandstone, containing a
+great many fossil shells.
+
+After finishing a trench along the western side, we began to dig inside
+the temple at the western end, going gradually eastward. We were soon
+rewarded for our labour by the discovery of a very perfect marble statue
+of life size. The head and both hands were gone, but otherwise the
+figure was uninjured, the surface being almost without a scratch. It was
+lying on the floor of the temple near the north-western corner, about
+four or five feet underground. Two days afterwards the figure was all
+but completed by the discovery of the head and left hand, near the same
+place. The head, that of a youth, wreathed with grapes and vine-leaves,
+and the hand holding a cluster of grapes, at once identified the statue,
+as one of Bacchus. The drapery falling from the left shoulder across the
+right knee left the greater part of the figure nude. This statue is
+given in Plate 61. The first thing to be thought of was its immediate
+removal to a place of safety, as the Arabs, in their hatred of images,
+would have considered its destruction a very meritorious act. But how to
+transport it without tackle or other mechanical appliances was rather
+puzzling. Meantime we pitched a tent close by, in which the blacks were
+stationed to act as a guard, while we made preparations for the work of
+removal. Carrying it was out of the question, owing to its great size
+and weight; and no vehicle, however rude, existed in the country. Having
+finally fixed on a sledge as the only means available, we went to a wood
+on the side of the hill beyond the north-eastern cemetery to look for a
+tree that would answer the purpose. We selected a good large cedar,
+which we felled, after a hard day’s work, with small hatchets, our only
+felling-axe having been lost or stolen during the journey from Benghazi.
+We then trimmed the trunk and lower branches into a very serviceable
+sort of sledge, the under side being cut as smooth as possible, and
+grooves made in it for the lashings. We also cut some spars to use as
+levers. With these and the coil of small rope we had brought from Malta
+we set to work the following day. By placing slings under the shoulders
+of the statue, and heaving on them with the spars, we got the figure
+into an upright position. The sledge, well covered with mats, was then
+lashed firmly to its back, care being taken to have the lashings well
+padded, to prevent their chafing the surface of the marble. The sledge,
+with the statue attached, was then gradually lowered by means of the
+spars, and a drag-rope made fast to it. By dint of hauling and shouting
+we got about halfway to our tomb before dark, when we again pitched the
+tent and set the guard for the night. Next day we tried the experiment
+of yoking in a camel, which proved quite successful. In the course of
+the forenoon the statue was safely deposited in our kitchen, where it
+was afterwards covered with a tent and walled up. We were not sorry when
+our labour was over, as, notwithstanding every contrivance for saving
+our hands, they had got sadly torn and blistered.
+
+We completed the excavation of the temple in nineteen days. Besides the
+Bacchus, we found two small marble statuettes, and a leopard in stone,
+rather smaller than life, with a collar of vine-leaves, but saw no
+inscriptions. The temple, very small in size, had no _pteron_, and
+consisted only of a _cella_ and _pronaos_, or _portico_. The front,
+which was towards the east, contained four columns, the two outer of
+which were engaged in the lateral walls. At the western end of the
+_cella_ there was a built pedestal, about two feet in height, on which
+without doubt the statue stood. The whole of the interior bore traces of
+having been faced and paved with thin slabs of marble.
+
+On the 21st of January we removed to the place marked on the plan of the
+city immediately above the theatre, on the side of the road leading up
+the centre ravine. There were several broken statues lying on the
+surface, and another was uncovered in the course of our excavations, but
+as they were all of late date and inferior style, we did not think them
+worth the trouble of removal. We also came on the bases of some unfluted
+marble columns _in situ_, but were unable to follow up the line thus
+pointed out, owing to the surrounding ground being sown with barley.
+While digging at this place, we turned up a great many thick, square,
+flat tiles, with which we paved part of the floor of our tomb.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 41.
+
+PLAN OF CYRENE To shew the positions from which the plans and Sketches
+were made
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+On the 31st of the month we commenced the excavation of the building in
+front of the fountain, marked on the plan “Temple of Apollo.” Although
+the form of the building could be easily traced, very little of it
+remained above ground. We began by clearing out, down to the level of
+the pavement, the space between the columns and the wall of the _cella_
+along the western and northern sides, on both of which we found parts of
+the columns _in situ_ and fragments of the entablature, all of the Doric
+order. The stone was the same as that of the Temple of Bacchus. The
+building is particularly mentioned by Beechey, who supposed it to be the
+Temple of Diana. We were inclined, however, from the first to consider
+it the Temple of Apollo, on account of its commanding position
+immediately in front of the fountain; and our opinion was confirmed
+before we commenced its excavation, by finding two inscriptions among
+the ruins, both of which referred to that deity.
+
+Our space for digging was very limited, all the surrounding ground, and
+even the eastern half of the temple itself, being covered with crops of
+grain. We would, willingly have bought them up, but found it impossible
+to do so, owing to the strong religious feeling of the Arabs, who regard
+the fruits of the soil as the immediate gift of God, and would resent
+their destruction as an act of sacrilege. The soil, once it has received
+the seed, becomes sacred, and can no more be desecrated by the excavator
+than a Greek church or a Turkish burial-ground.
+
+After digging along the west and north sides as far as we could for the
+crops, we commenced inside the _cella_, at the north-west corner.
+Cramped as we were for want of space, we were obliged to throw the
+_deblai_, as we proceeded, into the trench we had already excavated
+outside. The first object we found was a small draped female statue,
+unbroken, about 3 feet 6 inches in height. A few days afterwards we
+discovered a colossal statue of Apollo himself, lying on the floor of
+the temple, about ten feet below the surface of the ground. The head was
+broken off, and the body in three pieces; but as the fractures were
+clean and sharp, and their edges unchipped, we hoped that the whole
+figure might afterwards be put together without difficulty. When this
+was actually done, after the arrival of the sculptures in England, the
+parts were all found to fit each other so accurately that the fractures
+were barely perceptible. The trunk of the tree, the lyre, the serpent,
+the bow and quiver, and some of the folds of the drapery, were found
+piecemeal, in a great many fragments, which we collected carefully. The
+statue, as it now stands, without the slightest restoration, in the
+British Museum, is built up of no less than 121 separate pieces. A
+Photograph of it is given in Plate 62. Near it was a large square
+pedestal on which it had once stood.
+
+Its removal to our tomb proved a most tedious and difficult operation,
+on account not only of the great weight of each of the three parts, and
+the depth at which they were discovered, but also of the very tender way
+in which they had to be handled to prevent the thin sharp edges of the
+fractures from being chipped and bruised. Our troubles were increased by
+the conduct of the blacks, who thought this a favourable opportunity for
+advancing the most extravagant claims for remuneration. Some ridiculous
+notions had been put into their heads by the Arabs, during our absence
+for a few days at Derna. All our appeals and offers of a compromise were
+rejected; and as we would not yield to their absurd pretensions, they
+went off, and left us to get the Apollo to our tomb without them. As
+this was impossible, we were reduced to the necessity of reburying the
+statue to protect it from the Arabs. Our good fortune, however, had not
+deserted us. Two days afterwards, three negroes, sent by Mr. Crowe,
+arrived from Benghazi, and we were enabled to resume work. With their
+assistance and that of some of our Arab friends, we deposited the Apollo
+in safety in our tomb, after several days’ very hard work. The sledge
+was used as before, and a camel yoked in to help us to drag it. On the
+former occasion, when the road was pretty smooth, and for the most part
+down-hill, the camel did very well; now, however, the road was rough and
+all up-hill, and as the camel, although an excellent beast of burden,
+was quite unaccustomed to pulling, he would do nothing when he found he
+could not walk away with the load easily. We had, consequently, to
+unyoke him, and drag the sledge, foot by foot, ourselves.
+
+Our new labourers, with whom the work of instruction had, of course, to
+be recommenced, remained till the 20th of April, when they had to leave
+us for harvest-work at Benghazi. We then tried some Arabs, but were soon
+glad to get rid of them, as they gave us a great deal of trouble and did
+very little work. By this time, however, we had completed the excavation
+of the temple, nearly as far as our space allowed. We accordingly
+proposed to spend a few weeks in making excursions to different parts of
+the country, and to resume operations at Cyrene after the end of the
+harvest.
+
+It was evident from the first that many of the ruins at the Temple of
+Apollo were of much later date than the building itself. The _Cella_ was
+full of rubble walls and arches, roughly built of the materials of the
+more ancient building; and the eastern half was paved with coarse
+mosaic, about nine feet above the original floor of the temple, and,
+consequently, only two or three below the surface of the ground. Under
+this pavement there was a horizontal layer of broken columns resting on
+others which stood in rows on the floor of the temple.
+
+Near the middle of the _Cella_, a draped male statue, about seven feet
+in height, but broken in two, was found lying on the tesselated pavement
+(Plate 63). The head, which was of a separate piece from the body, from
+which it could be removed at pleasure, fitted into a socket,—a somewhat
+barbarous expedient for making the statue of a deceased emperor do duty
+as his living successor’s, after the simple change of the head and the
+name. Close to the statue we found a broken marble pedestal, on which
+the following fragment of an inscription could be deciphered.
+
+  αὐτ]οκράτορα [Καίσ]αρ[α
+
+   Τρ]αϊανὸν Ἀ[δριαν]ὸν
+
+    Σε]βασ[τόν.
+
+It may be presumed from this inscription that the statue represents the
+Emperor Hadrian. We also found on this spot a large marble slab, on
+which was the inscription, No. 26. We removed it to our tomb, like the
+others, by means of the sledge. Imbedded in the earth, between the feet
+of the statue, we found a head of Minerva, rather smaller than life,
+quite uninjured, with the single exception of the point of the helmet,
+which was a little broken. (_See_ Plate 64.)
+
+In the same part of the temple as the Apollo, that is, in the western
+half of the _Cella_, we found a head life-size, identified by an
+inscription as the portrait of Cnæus Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus, the
+first Roman proprætor of Cyrene. (_See_ Plate 65.) The inscription (No.
+1) was cut on the face of a square block of marble, on which stood a
+square pedestal, 10 inches broad and 5 feet high, having at the top a
+deep socket, into which the head was fitted. The back of the head was
+cut flat, as if it had rested against a wall.
+
+As our workmen had all left, we were unable at this time to complete the
+excavation of the interior of the _Cella_. The whole of the eastern
+half, between the mosaic pavement and the floor, we had to leave
+untouched, until the month of August. One of the most remarkable things
+which we then discovered was a bronze portrait head, in an excellent
+state of preservation (Plate 66), lying on the original floor of the
+temple, 11 feet beneath the mosaic pavement. Near it were some small
+bronze fragments of horses, &c., very much injured, as if by fire;
+several terra-cotta lamps, and a quantity of fragments of gold-leaf
+mixed up with the earth. We also discovered several marble heads of
+different sizes, a number of inscriptions, eight small statues, varying
+from 2½ to 4 feet in height, and part of a leg of a colossal statue of
+very fine style. Of the small statues the most remarkable were a figure
+of Jupiter Ammon, a group representing the nymph Cyrene strangling a
+lion, and a huntress, probably Diana Venatrix, accompanied by a dog.
+
+The temple was of the usual form and construction, although it might be
+remarked that its length was somewhat great in proportion to its
+breadth, and that the entrance was not in the west but in the east
+front. In these two respects, however, we found all the temples of
+Cyrene which we examined, alike. The entrance being in this position,
+the statue of the deity must have been placed at the west end facing the
+east, contrary to the following recommendation of Vitruvius: “The
+temples of the gods should be so placed that the statue, which has its
+station in the _Cella_, should, if there be nothing to interfere with
+such a disposition, face the west, in order that those who come to make
+oblations and offer sacrifices, may face the east when their view is
+directed toward the statue; and those who come to impose upon themselves
+the performance of vows, may have the temple and the east immediately
+before them. Thus the statue they regard will appear as if rising from
+the east and looking down on the suppliants.”[3]
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+WHEN our workmen left us, and the excavations were stopped in the end of
+April, we had a considerable collection of valuable sculptures in our
+tomb, but were still uncertain whether we should be furnished by the
+Government with the means of sending them home. To determine the best
+method of conveying them to the shore, should the means of doing so be
+granted, we had carefully examined the country between Cyrene and the
+coast. The greatest difficulty to be overcome was the descent of the
+Augubah, or lower range of precipitous hills near the sea, to which our
+attention was, therefore, specially directed. We soon found, however,
+that little or no choice was left us, the only practicable pass near
+Cyrene being on the track of the ancient road to Apollonia, now called
+Marsa Sousah. It was evident that the transport of the statues over such
+a road would be a work of great labour and considerable difficulty; but,
+at the same time, we thought it quite a feasible undertaking. We
+accordingly sent a report of our proceedings to Lord Russell as early as
+the month of February, soon after the discovery of the Bacchus, and
+enclosed a detail of the means we considered best adapted for the
+carriage of that statue and such others as might afterwards be found.
+His lordship readily granted the required means, and, at his request, a
+man-of-war, with all the stores and appliances we had suggested, was
+ordered to proceed to Marsa Sousah to embark the sculptures. Owing,
+however, to the want of communication with Europe, we did not receive
+the reply to our report until after the actual arrival of the vessel in
+the month of May. About the same time a letter reached us from Mr.
+Panizzi, principal Librarian of the British Museum, informing us that
+the Trustees had voted us a subsidy of £100 towards defraying the
+expenses of the expedition.
+
+H.M.S. _Assurance_, Commander C. M. Aynsley, arrived off Marsa Sousah on
+the 10th of May, but finding a strong breeze blowing towards the shore
+from the north-west, she steamed on about fifteen miles to the eastward,
+and anchored in a more sheltered position behind Ras El Hilal. As the
+fact of our being at Cyrene was by this time well known throughout the
+country, the officers of the _Assurance_ had no difficulty in finding an
+Arab to whom they could make themselves understood, and who was
+forthwith despatched with a letter to inform us of their arrival. After
+walking all night he reached our quarters early in the morning. As we
+had hitherto received no letters from England, we were most agreeably
+surprised by the good news he brought us, and gave him an unusually
+liberal backshish in consequence. Independently of the encouragement and
+assistance given us by the arrival of the vessel, we were, of course,
+delighted with the prospect of seeing some of our own friends and
+countrymen after our solitary residence of five months among negroes and
+Bedouins. We immediately saddled our horses and started for Ras El Hilal
+without delay, accompanied by the Arab who brought the letter, and by
+our friend Amor Bon Abdi Seyat and his brother. Great part of the road
+along the shore from Marsa Sousah was over sharp rocks and across deep
+rugged wadys, so that it was with difficulty that we reached Ras El
+Hilal after an eight hours’ ride. We there found some of the officers on
+shore shooting, with whom we went on board for the night, leaving our
+horses in charge of Amor and his brother.
+
+Ras El Hilal, behind which the _Assurance_ was anchored, is the site of
+the ancient Naustathmus, of which almost no remains are now to be seen.
+
+The following morning, May 12th, the wind having moderated, the vessel
+steamed round to Marsa Sousah, and anchored about half a mile from the
+shore. A party of thirty blue jackets and marines, who were all that
+could be spared from the ship, were immediately landed, under the
+command of Lieutenant Luard, R.N., and encamped on the beach. The
+waggons and stores of all sorts were then disembarked, and two ship’s
+carpenters sent to Cyrene to make packing-cases for the marbles. Amor
+and his friends meanwhile scoured the country in all directions to get
+camels to carry the plank and stores up to Cyrene, but had considerable
+difficulty in finding a sufficient number, as the Arabs were all at work
+getting in their harvest. After two days’ delay we at last got about a
+dozen collected at the camp on the beach. Besides those required for the
+carriage of the planks and stores to Cyrene, a number of camels were
+wanted to accompany the working party with the waggons to carry the
+sailors’ tents and baggage, and keep them supplied with water. An
+arrangement was accordingly made with the drivers, by which we agreed to
+pay a certain sum _per trip_ for each camel carrying a load to Cyrene,
+and a certain sum _per diem_ for each camel that remained with the
+waggon party. The tents and baggage were consequently placed in one
+heap, and the stores for Cyrene in another, the drivers being allowed to
+distribute the work among themselves as they pleased. The usual tiresome
+wrangling over the division of the loads ensued, as a matter of course,
+and on this occasion it lasted all day. Towards evening the different
+burdens were at last adjusted, and the camels loaded. We congratulated
+ourselves that we were now on the point of effecting a start, when the
+owners of the camels that were loaded with the sailors’ baggage changed
+their minds, and said they would either go up to Cyrene or not go at
+all. Argument and expostulation were in vain; they coolly unloaded the
+camels and took their departure. We were accordingly obliged to pitch
+our tents again for the night, and remain where we were as patiently as
+possible.
+
+Next day we fortunately met our friend Mohammed El Adouly, who undertook
+to supply us with a sufficient number of camels, and to superintend the
+drivers himself. We were thus saved a great deal of trouble and delay,
+as he carried out his contract to our entire satisfaction.
+
+We started from Marsa Sousah with the two waggons on the 14th, and
+reached the foot of the Augubah the same night. Next morning we dragged
+the waggons one at a time up the slope of the hill, until further
+progress became impossible. The only way of getting them to the top was
+by unscrewing all the connecting bolts, and carrying the separate pieces
+on the men’s shoulders. Owing to the steepness of the narrow rocky path,
+and the weight of the wheels and many of the other pieces, this was a
+work of great labour; but the sailors had made up their minds that it
+must be done, and they did it accordingly. It was only after three days’
+incessant toil that they got everything to the top, when the waggons
+were again put together, and the journey resumed in the usual way. Our
+progress, however, was slow; as, throughout a great part of the way, a
+road had to be cleared and made before it was possible to get the
+waggons dragged along. Except at one or two places, the party was barely
+strong enough to drag one waggon at a time, although our numbers were by
+this time increased by the arrival of seven blacks from Benghazi.
+
+Our usual method of proceeding was as follows:—We got up at daybreak,
+had breakfast, and started with the waggons before sunrise. We remained
+at work till eight or nine o’clock, when the party returned to the camp
+and rested till about three in the afternoon, when the tents were struck
+and packed with the baggage on the camels. From the distance traversed
+in the morning, it was easy to foresee what point would be reached
+before night. A convenient place for encampment was therefore chosen
+after the morning’s work, and two or three men were sent on with the
+baggage in the afternoon, to pitch the tents and cook the men’s supper,
+before their arrival with the waggons at sunset. The men worked most
+cheerfully, and seemed quite to enjoy the change from shipboard. After
+supper, their great amusement was to build large bonfires all round the
+camp, for the purpose, as they said, of keeping off the wild beasts.
+Even after their hard day’s work, they used to sit round the fires
+telling stories and singing songs till far into the night, much to the
+wonder of the Arabs and negroes who were in the camp.
+
+Meantime the carpenters had packed the statues, so that on our arrival
+at Cyrene on the 24th, the loads for the waggons were ready. On one
+waggon we placed the Bacchus and the largest of the small statues, and
+on the other the Apollo in three cases. The smaller objects, such as
+heads, statuettes, &c., were packed in small boxes to be carried by
+camels. We were obliged to leave three of the largest of the small
+figures, and also the statue of Hadrian, as there was no room for them
+in the waggons, and they were too heavy for the camels.
+
+We started from Cyrene on the morning of the 29th, and, taking only one
+waggon at a time, reached the plain at the base of the hills the same
+night. The five following days were spent in crossing the lower plateau
+to the top of the Augubah, where we arrived on the 3rd of June. The
+wheels of the waggons were by this time considerably shaken by the heavy
+jolting over rocks and stones, but still remained unbroken.
+
+We had now to face our chief difficulty, the descent of the Augubah.
+After considering every possible way in which it could be done, we
+decided on lowering the waggons straight down the face of the hill by
+means of tackle. The least rugged part of the hill being selected, our
+first care was to provide the means of making fast the lowering tackle,
+which was done by placing heavy boat’s anchors in holes cut for the
+purpose in the rock. The front axle of the waggon was then lashed to the
+body of the carriage to prevent the fore wheels from getting locked
+against the sides of the waggon, and thereby upsetting it. A tackle,
+consisting of a 3½-inch rope, rove through two double blocks, was then
+made fast to the anchors, and to the centre of the fore axle, and the
+waggon lowered slowly, hind wheels foremost. About one-third of the way
+down, there was a nearly level ledge or terrace, forming part of the
+ancient road to Apollonia, which served as a convenient halting-place
+from which to make a fresh start. To reach this point, however, the
+waggons, as they were being lowered, had to be guided in a slanting
+direction across the face of the hill, which was safely done with the
+first waggon by means of handspikes. Not content to “let well alone,” we
+unfortunately thought to improve upon this simple method in the lowering
+of the other one. In addition to the anchors already in position,
+another was placed some distance to the right, and directly above the
+part of the terrace to which the waggons had to be taken. After the
+waggon had been lowered to a convenient place, the standing part of the
+tackle was to be transferred from the first anchor to the second one,
+thereby causing the waggon, when the lowering was continued, to slant
+across to the right until it was directly under the second anchor, to
+which the whole tackle was then to be transferred, and the waggon
+lowered straight down to the halting-place on the terrace. It was, in
+fact, an application of the principle of the _whip_ used for taking
+weights over a ship’s side. Unfortunately, the second anchor was not
+properly placed in the hole made for it. The petty officer sent to look
+after it, instead of letting it remain as we had left it, thought he had
+improved its hold by placing it horizontally in a cleft of the rock, so
+as to act not as an _anchor_, but as what is called a _toggle_. The
+result was, that whenever it felt the indirect strain of the slanting
+motion of the waggon, it at once tilted up and lost its hold. To our
+horror, away went the waggon at a tremendous pace, and the anchor after
+it almost flying. For a second or two the destruction of the waggon and
+the Apollo seemed inevitable, as it was heading straight for a precipice
+two or three hundred feet in height, when, to our relief, it gave a
+great bound, and landed itself in a large cavity in the rock. Strange to
+say, not even a spoke of a wheel was broken. With considerable
+difficulty we got it out of its lodgment, and along the terrace to the
+part selected as the starting-point for the further lowering to the
+bottom of the hill. Here the face of the hill presented a continuous
+slope, about 400 yards in length, and so steep that it was impossible to
+climb it at some parts, except on hands and feet. All the ropes the ship
+could afford were spliced to make a tackle of sufficient length. The
+anchors were again placed in holes cut in the rock, and the fore axles
+of the waggons lashed as before. The great danger to be avoided was the
+_serging_ of the waggon, caused by the elasticity of such a length of
+tackle. To prevent this, a few men with handspikes went with the waggon
+to keep it moving as uniformly as the nature of the ground would admit.
+Both waggons reached the bottom without accident, and were saluted on
+their arrival there by three hearty cheers from the whole party.
+
+The following day the _Assurance_ anchored abreast of the Augubah, and
+the waggons were dragged to the beach, where a triangle was set up in
+water deep enough for a loaded boat. The waggons were then run under it,
+and the cases, one by one, weighed and lowered into the ship’s boats. On
+the same day, Mohammed El Adouly’s camels brought down the last of the
+smaller cases; so that before night everything was on board.
+
+For the success of all the operations connected with the transport and
+embarkation of the statues we were greatly indebted to Captain Aynsley,
+the officers, and crew of the _Assurance_, and particularly to
+Lieutenant Luard and the working party under his command. He was himself
+indefatigable in his exertions to get the work carried on, and his
+orders were most cheerfully obeyed by the men, whose “pluck” and
+determination overcame every obstacle.
+
+Early the following morning, the 8th of June, the _Assurance_ left for
+Malta, and we returned to our solitary residence at Cyrene.
+
+
+
+
+                          CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+BEFORE resuming the narrative of our excavations, we may here give some
+account of our dealings with the Arabs, and of the excursions which we
+made to different parts of the Cyrenaica before the arrival of the
+_Assurance_.
+
+Not long after our arrival at Cyrene we had a specimen of the kind of
+difficulties we were likely to meet with not unfrequently. Walking one
+day round the face of the hill opposite the fountain, we were met by an
+Arab who, in very expressive language, ordered us to turn and leave the
+place at once. For some time we could not exactly make out what had so
+stirred up his indignation, but afterwards found that it was our
+presence within the limits of the _Zauyah_. Thinking the Zauyah was
+probably one of the tombs converted into a mosque, we told him we had no
+wish to desecrate it, and asked him to show us where it was, that we
+might avoid it in future. To our astonishment, the boundary he pointed
+out included the whole side of a hill, which formed one of the most
+interesting parts of the north-eastern cemetery. To give up the right of
+visiting so large a portion of the necropolis was out of the question,
+especially as submission on our part would only encourage the _Achwan_,
+or devotees of the Zauyah, to further acts of aggression. We therefore
+determined to contest the point, which we did by walking within the
+proscribed boundary nearly every day. Several threatening messages
+reached us from the Sheikh of the Zauyah, who, professing himself our
+friend, said he could not control the rage of the Arabs if we continued
+to pollute the sacred enclosure by our presence. This Sheikh, Mustapha
+by name, was considered one of the greatest saints in the country, and
+was respected and feared accordingly. He was always called _Sidi_
+Mustapha, a title bestowed upon Marabouts, or holy men, and equivalent
+to _Rabbi_—my lord or master. Originally one of the greatest thieves in
+Mesurata, he had suddenly become intensely religious, and joined the
+fanatical sect of _El Senoussy_ during the late revival of Mussulman
+bigotry. He, with others, had left Mesurata, and travelled about the
+country trying to stir up a crusade against the Christians. He was now
+settled down as the Sheikh of the Zauyah of Shahat.
+
+Matters continued in this unsatisfactory state for nearly a month, till
+one day, when we were walking along the forbidden path, an Arab sallied
+forth from a tomb above us and began pelting us with stones. He was
+immediately joined by others from different directions, all in the
+highest state of excitement. Some of the more indignant were for
+shooting us at once, and one man had actually levelled his gun, but was
+prevented from firing by some of his cooler friends. Meantime such a
+number of Arabs had assembled that it would have been foolishness for us
+to attempt going farther. Sidi Mustapha, by whom the whole thing had
+evidently been planned, now appeared on the scene, and pretended to try
+and pacify the enraged crowd. After several unsuccessful efforts,
+turning to us, he said, “You see it is just as I told you; and if this
+goes on, I shall not be able to prevent their shooting you, if you
+remain at Cyrene at all.” We had, of course, to retire, but told his
+lordship that we had come to Cyrene for a special purpose, and had no
+intention of leaving until that was accomplished. Moreover, that we
+would see that the two men who had thrown stones and threatened to shoot
+us were duly punished for their offence.
+
+Shortly before this time a tent and some other articles had been stolen
+from our tomb, and although the Arabs must have known well enough who
+the thieves were, we could find no trace of our lost property. We
+therefore determined to test the value of our firman, by requesting the
+Mudir of Ghegheb to punish the two Achwani of the Zauyah, and to compel
+the tribe near Cyrene to deliver up the thief, our object in doing so
+being, if possible, to show the Arabs that we were not to be offended
+with impunity. Porcher and Cesareo accordingly went the day after the
+disturbance to the castle of Ghegheb, were they saw the Mudir, Lemin Ben
+Sitewi, an old Arab, who had been Mudir under the Karamanlis before the
+occupation of the country by the Turks. When he saw the firman, and was
+informed of the object of the visit, he promised that everything should
+be done at once to our satisfaction. The two Achwani should be
+apprehended and kept in prison at Ghegheb until he had communicated with
+the Pacha at Benghazi, and our lost property should either be
+immediately restored, or the tribe mulcted of its value, which was
+estimated at 3,000 piastres (£24). He said he had no doubt that the
+thief, and probably one of the principal intriguers against us, was a
+neighbour of our own, Mabrook Jerébi, who was, therefore, to be
+immediately apprehended.
+
+So far as promises went, all this was satisfactory enough; but
+performance, as usual, was quite the reverse. In conducting business of
+any kind with officials in Turkey, there is never the slightest
+difficulty in making the preliminary arrangements and stipulations.
+During an interview everything is settled exactly as you wish, and you
+come away impressed with the idea that you have managed your business
+very cleverly, and that the authorities in Turkey are, after all, not
+half so bad as they are called. You soon discover, however, that here
+your real difficulties begin. If what is promised is ever actually
+performed, it is only after the most vexatious shuffling and delay, for
+which plausible excuses are never wanting. A Turkish official seems to
+reason with himself somewhat in this way:—“I do not wish to disturb my
+peace of mind by arguing with this man; I must, therefore, promise
+everything he wishes, reserving the question of performance for private
+consideration afterwards. Should he afterwards be so exacting as to
+insist on the fulfilment of my promises, I am quite unfit for my post if
+I cannot coin sufficient excuses to satisfy him. A judicious repetition
+of the promises, and the partial performance now and then of some of
+them, will keep matters all right for a time, and, meanwhile, ‘something
+may turn up.’ Should the worst come to the worst, I shall, after all,
+have to do no more than I promised at the first.”
+
+Such is the almost invariable method of conducting business; so that, in
+proportion as a man becomes an adept in the art of delay, his reputation
+as a clever administrator increases. The Turks, and I believe Easterns
+in general, pride themselves on their superiority to Europeans in this
+kind of sharpness. Hence a common saying among them, “Frangestan
+marafat, lakin Arabestan akl,” “Europe for talent, _but_ the East for
+cleverness,” the force of the word _lakin_ showing the higher esteem in
+which the _akl_ is held. We are, perhaps, too apt in this country to
+sacrifice the _suaviter in modo_ to the _fortiter in re_, but in Turkey
+the tendency is quite the reverse.
+
+The above was thoroughly exemplified in our dealings with Lemin Ben
+Sitewi. The day after Porcher’s interview, Lemin’s Kiayah, or Secretary,
+with a number of mounted Koralié, came to Cyrene for the ostensible
+purpose of carrying out the orders for the apprehension of the
+offenders. They took Mabrook Jerébi, whom we had never accused, but said
+they could not get the two Achwani as they did not know their names.
+When we gave them the names, they went again to the Zauyah, but returned
+immediately, saying the men were gone away and could not be found. On
+our saying that this was not the case, as we had seen them only a few
+hours before, they said that the fact was that both the men were the
+servants of Sidi Mustapha and could not be taken without his consent,
+which it was impossible to obtain that day, as he was from home. On his
+return, however, which was expected the following day, they would come
+again to Shahat and apprehend the men without fail. Seeing the way in
+which the matter was likely to end if left in the hands of the Mudir, we
+told the Kiayah to inform his master that if the men were not taken
+within three days, we would communicate the whole of the affair through
+the Consul to the Pacha at Benghazi.
+
+After waiting some days, and hearing no further tidings of the actions
+of the Mudir, we sent a courier to Benghazi with a letter to Mr. Crowe,
+in which we gave a full account of the matters as they stood, and
+requested him to take whatever steps he thought advisable. He at once
+called on the Kaimacam and insisted on his sending the most stringent
+orders to the Mudir to have the men apprehended and sent to Benghazi. A
+messenger was accordingly sent to Ghegheb with orders to the Mudir to go
+himself to Cyrene without delay and seize the men. After bringing them
+before us for identification, he was to send them to Benghazi to be
+dealt with by the Kaimacam himself. He was also to pay us the 3,000
+piastres and levy the amount on the tribe guilty of the theft.
+
+In consequence of these orders, Lemin made his appearance at our
+quarters one morning accompanied by a large retinue of Sheiks,
+Chavasses, and Koralié. After informing us of the object of his visit,
+he handed over to us 1,500 piastres, alleging the emptiness of the
+public chest as his reason for not bringing the whole sum. He also said
+that the two men had been sent for and would be brought before us in the
+course of an hour or two. Expecting further difficulties and excuses, we
+were certainly somewhat surprised by the actual arrival of the
+prisoners, who, however, seemed unaccountably cool and unconcerned. This
+the Mudir explained by whispering to us that they were not aware of the
+object for which he had called them, but had come with the idea that
+they were only to make an apology for their conduct and depart in peace.
+He even received them with a gracious “Salaam Aleikoum,” and bade them
+be seated. After a short pause he turned to us and asked if these were
+the men of whom we complained. When we said that they were, he called
+out “Bring the ropes.” The Chavasses immediately ran in and with a great
+pretence of activity and violence disarmed and pinioned the prisoners.
+They were then led off ignominiously by the mounted attendants, who, to
+make escape impossible, held them by long ropes attached to their
+pinions. They were followed by the Mudir and his retinue, the whole
+cavalcade moving off in the presence of a large concourse of Arabs who
+had meantime assembled round our tomb. The whole scene was quite
+dramatic.
+
+We soon discovered that the drama had been rehearsed with a view to its
+effect, not on the assembled Arabs, but on ourselves. Within a week we
+heard that the prisoners were again at liberty, having, according to the
+Mudir, slipped their shackles in a miraculous manner, and escaped during
+the night when on their way to Benghazi. This feat, however, lost all
+its supernatural character in our eyes, when looked upon in connection
+with the purse of dollars previously subscribed by the Arabs and given
+to the Mudir. His superior cleverness on this occasion cost him dear,
+for on our again applying to Mr. Crowe, he was deprived of office and
+sent as a prisoner to Tripoli, whence he was not allowed to return to
+Benghazi until all his money had found its way into the coffers of the
+Pacha. Thus after two months’ delay, our dignity was finally and
+publicly vindicated.
+
+About the same time the Kaimacam sent his Bash-Chavass, or head
+policeman, Osman Aga, to Cyrene, to remain with us as long as we thought
+his presence desirable, and to keep a good look-out on the doings of the
+Achwani of the Zauyah. Long before his arrival, however, Sidi Mustapha,
+seeing the turn affairs were taking, went off to Augila, and did not
+return until he heard of the coming of the _Assurance_, in which he
+thought we would take our departure. Although the Achwani committed no
+open act of hostility towards us, they caused us a great deal of trouble
+indirectly, by interfering with our servants. Our principal servant,
+Amor Bon Abdi Seyat, was bound to us by too secure a tenure to be much
+affected by their opinions, as he not only received liberal and frequent
+bakshish, but was, with his whole family, exempted from the payment of
+the _miri_, or tribute, so long as he remained in our employment. Some
+of the other servants, however, the Achwani threatened with their
+vengeance if they remained longer in our service. They were particularly
+bitter against an old woman, Fatima, who ground the corn and made the
+bread of the establishment. Her services were absolutely indispensable,
+inasmuch as an Arab, or even a negro, would rather eat raw corn or
+starve than grind the wheat or barley himself. Of all employments, this
+of grinding corn is peculiarly a woman’s, and is never done even by
+boys. On the other hand, the sewing and washing of both men’s and
+women’s clothes are done by the men. Fatima’s office of Nufaga being,
+therefore one of the most important in our household, the Achwani made
+special efforts to deprive us of her services, telling her that they
+would cut her hands off after we were gone if she remained another day
+with us. They even went beyond threats, for one day when she was at the
+Zauyah for something or other, they got hold of her and gave her a
+beating. As this was a more tangible offence than mere threats, we put
+in force against them a law of retaliation recognized by the Arabs, by
+which they were compelled to pay old Fatima the sum of twenty-five
+dollars.
+
+With these exceptions our intercourse with the Arabs was usually of a
+friendly nature. During the first two months of our stay at Cyrene, we
+were greatly indebted to Mr. Cesareo, whose knowledge of the language
+and acquaintance with the habits of the people were of the greatest
+service. He left us to return to Benghazi, in the beginning of March,
+after which time we had to transact our business with the Arabs in the
+best way we could without assistance. Our transactions consisted chiefly
+in making bargains for barley, wheat, butter, sheep, and bullocks.
+Concluding a bargain was always a very tedious affair, and seeing it
+properly carried out afterwards was much more so. One great cause of
+this was the absence of any definite standard of measurement; the only
+measure of capacity for both solids and liquids being the _wugga_, or
+oke, which, however, was little more than a name, the wugga of one Arab
+being sometimes half as much again as that of another. This, of course,
+caused endless disputes; and as we found the oke daily becoming “small
+by degrees and beautifully less,” we were obliged at last to adopt an
+arbitrary wugga of our own. When this, after long opposition, was fairly
+established, we were saved a great part of the previous trouble and
+annoyance.
+
+The public disgrace of the Mudir had a very salutary effect on the
+Arabs, and was, no doubt, one of the principal causes of their general
+good behaviour toward us afterwards. Another was that they had gradually
+become accustomed to our presence, and were less hostile in proportion
+as we became better acquainted with each other. The tribes we met in
+other parts of the country, and those from the southward, who came to
+the neighbourhood of Cyrene late in the summer, took no pains to hide
+their great hatred of the Nazarenes. The following is an instance of
+this feeling. Some Arabs who were assembled in our tomb, were talking
+about a report that had reached us of a violent earthquake in Malta and
+Sicily, by which many thousand people had perished. One of the Arabs
+present, on being told, in answer to a question, that all these people
+were Christians, muttered in a low, expressive tone: “_El Hamdu
+’lillah!_” (Praise be to God!)
+
+We gained considerable influence by our reputed skill as doctors,
+although we disclaimed any pretensions to a knowledge of the healing
+art. People came with diseases of every kind, in the expectation that
+they were at once to be cured. Knowing nothing of the nature or causes
+of disease, they look upon it as a supernatural visitation, and
+therefore conclude that it is only to be abated or cured by supernatural
+means, of which medicine and written charms (_kiteeba_) are the most
+effectual. The latter, being altogether mysterious, are held in the
+highest esteem. Owing to the ignorance of the people, the few among them
+who can read and write are looked upon with a respect somewhat allied to
+fear; and if, in addition to the accomplishments of reading and writing,
+a man has the reputation of being a marabut, or saint, he is treated
+with the greatest reverence. Such men are called _fikkis_, and not
+unusually turn their reputation to good account by selling written
+charms to their credulous clients. As we were often seen reading and
+writing, the Arabs became fully convinced that we must be great fikkis,
+although, as Christians, we could not have derived our power from the
+proper quarter. Applications for kiteebas were, therefore, very
+frequent, not only in cases of sickness, but also for the remedy of all
+sorts of domestic troubles and grievances. A woman, for instance, came
+for a kiteeba to enable her to retain the undivided affections of her
+husband, and thereby restrain him from taking another wife. A man whose
+hopes of marrying the object of his affections had been frustrated by
+the enmity of her relations, wanted one to overcome their opposition and
+secure the success of his suit. One young lady begged for a kiteeba that
+would get her a husband, and another asked for one to prevent her being
+married to a man she disliked. In vain we tried to persuade the people
+that charms were valueless, and that the idea of their efficacy was kept
+up by the fikkis solely for their own advantage. The belief in their
+power was too deeply rooted to be shaken by anything we could say, and
+our unwillingness to write them was attributed to mere churlishness.
+This being the case, we were often obliged to act as sorcerers to get
+rid of importunate applicants. In giving a kiteeba, we took care at the
+same time to recommend the use of such natural means as we thought most
+conducive to the desired result, and enforced our advice by saying, that
+the kiteeba was so written that it could have no effect if the means
+recommended were not adopted. If the desired result was obtained, the
+success was, of course, ascribed to the virtue of the charm; and if not,
+the failure was attributed to a final cause,—it was _mektub_, written as
+the will of God in the Book of Fate.
+
+The wandering habits of the Bedouins are a necessary result of the form
+of their property and of the physical condition of the country in which
+they live. As the various tribes are in a perpetual state of feud or
+open war among themselves, agriculture is but little attended to, and
+property consists almost entirely of flocks and herds, which, being
+moveable, are better adapted than crops to a lawless state of society.
+For mutual protection, a number of families belonging to the same clan
+or subdivision of a tribe live together and form an encampment, which
+consists generally of from six to twelve tents, with one family in each.
+The flocks belonging to the camp graze on the surrounding pastures, and,
+during summer, drink the water that remains in the pools which form
+during the rains in winter. In a short time the grass and water within a
+convenient distance of the camp are consumed, and it becomes necessary
+to move to another place. The tents are then struck, and, with the
+smaller children and the few rude articles that belong to the household,
+are carried by camels and oxen; the men mount their horses, and the
+women follow on foot to drive the flocks.
+
+In fixing on a spot for a camp, two points have to be attended to; good
+grazing-ground for the animals, and a sheltered and secluded position
+for the tents. On this account a thicket of brushwood is frequently
+selected, in the centre of which a space is cleared for the camp, and
+enclosed by a rough fence of shrubs and branches, which keeps in the
+cattle during the night, and serves to a great extent as a line of
+defence, as it is impossible to pass it without attracting the attention
+of the numerous watch-dogs on duty inside.
+
+These dogs bark all night without intermission, and give warning of the
+approach of a stranger by a special howl of peculiar fierceness. One
+would naturally imagine that a dog given to perpetual barking, and in
+this respect like the boy in the fable who cried “wolf,” would be of
+comparatively little value as a watch. The Arabs, however, think
+otherwise. They say truly that if a dog barks all night he cannot
+possibly fall asleep, and that the change in his bark on the approach of
+an intruder is quite sufficient to arouse the soundest sleeper. His
+usual bark is a warning to the enemy that the sentries within the camp
+are awake, and to his master it is a perpetual report of “all’s well.”
+The hoarse voices of the dogs, the plaintive grumbling of the camels,
+and the bleating of scores of lambs and kids, joining with the shrill
+cries of the surrounding jackals, form a midnight chorus the reverse of
+musical.
+
+The flocks are generally tended by the young men and the children, while
+the women are chiefly employed in grinding the barley for the use of the
+family, churning butter, and weaving haircloth for tents and camel-bags.
+In good years, that is, when there has been plenty of rain in winter and
+spring, there is a considerable surplus of wheat and barley, which the
+Arabs take for sale to Benghazi and Derna. Such, however, is their
+improvidence, that little or no provision is made against a season of
+drought, so that they are not unfrequently reduced to poverty and
+starvation by the death of their cattle and the failure of the crops. In
+ordinary years, a large quantity of butter is made. The only churn in
+use is simply a goat-skin, which the women fill with milk and rock
+backwards and forwards on their knees until the butter forms. The
+buttermilk, called _Leben_, is one of the principal articles of food.
+The butter (_Zibda_) when made, is melted in a pot, and salt added in
+certain proportion. The curd part of the butter having sunk to the
+bottom, the oily part is poured off into goat-skins prepared for the
+purpose. This clarified butter, called _Semen_, is the only form in
+which it is eaten by the Arabs, the _Zibda_ being considered unclean. It
+is exported in large quantities to different parts of Turkey.
+
+The dish in most general use among the Arabs is a thick kind of barley
+porridge called _Bazeen_, seasoned with whatever they happen to have at
+the time. The favourite condiment, however, is red pepper of capsicums,
+which they consume in astonishing quantities when they have an
+opportunity. When they wish to be luxurious, or to do honour to a
+stranger, some melted _Semen_ is poured into the middle of the dish, and
+in this each guest dips the _bolus_ of bazeen which he has kneaded with
+his fingers into convenient size and shape for swallowing. When the
+dish, or rather trough, is cleared, copious draughts of _leben_ finish
+the repast.
+
+A kind of unleavened bread is sometimes eaten, but as its preparation is
+not so simple as the Bazeen, it is considered rather a luxury. It is
+made in the following manner:—A large fire is kindled, and into it are
+thrown a number of stones about the size of the fist; when they are
+thoroughly heated, some of them are laid on the embers so as to form a
+flat surface, on which the dough is placed and beaten out with the hand
+to an average thickness of about an inch and a half. This cake is then
+covered with the rest of the stones, and the red embers of the fire are
+raked over the whole. In a few minutes the bread is cooked, and is eaten
+at once before it cools. It is usually torn into small pieces, and
+served up in a bazeen-dish with melted semen, in which form it is called
+_Hobsa Mitruda_.
+
+Wheaten bread is very rarely eaten; but the mode of baking it deserves
+notice. A large wide-mouthed earthen pot, called _Taboona_, is placed on
+the ground, and a fire kindled inside and around it. The dough is
+kneaded in the usual manner in a wooden dish, and formed into flat round
+loaves about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and six or eight
+inches in diameter. The _Nufaga_ taking one of these in her hand, sticks
+it against the inside of the taboona, to which it adheres until it is
+baked. Bread made in this way is called _Hobsa Taboona_, and if
+carefully baked and quite fresh is very palatable.
+
+Meat is never eaten except on such great occasions as a marriage feast,
+or when it can be got for nothing. On such occasions it is devoured
+alone without either salt or bread. Tea, coffee, and sugar, are all but
+unknown.
+
+The tents are of very simple construction, consisting simply of a broad
+piece of haircloth stretched over two upright poles. The two ends and
+the back are usually pegged down pretty close to the ground, and the
+front left open. The cloth is generally made up of alternate strips of
+black and white or black and brown. The cords, as well as the cloth, are
+made of hair. The tents contain nothing but the most indispensable
+articles; such as water-skins, butter-skins, camel-bags, a hand mill,
+wooden bazeen-dishes, &c. The beds, if there are any, are simply bits of
+haircloth or matting spread on the floor, and the barracans, or _Jered_,
+worn by day are the only bedclothes during the night. When the weather
+is very cold, the Arabs have rather an ingenious way of keeping
+themselves warm. They dig a space under their beds about six inches in
+depth, and fill it up with stones that have been heated in the fire,
+over which they spread some twigs and leaves, and the mat on which they
+sleep. By this arrangement the beds are kept warm for several hours.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 42.—INTERIOR OF MOHAMMED EL ADOULY’S TENT.]
+
+The affairs of state of a tribe are settled by a _Medjlis_ or general
+assembly of all the men belonging to it. These assemblies are called on
+even the most trivial occasions, and sometimes last for several days.
+The speeches are generally confined to the sheikhs; but any one is at
+liberty to give his opinion. There is no particular method in the way in
+which they arrive at a conclusion. After a great deal of talking, the
+general mind of the meeting seems to become understood, and action is
+taken accordingly. With a few exceptions, the sheikhs do not seem to
+possess the power or influence usually attributed to them. The original
+signification of “_sheikh_” (pronounced _shaich_, _ch_ guttural), is
+simply “_old man_.”
+
+The form of salutation among the Arabs is very peculiar. When two people
+meet, they strike the palms of their hands against each other and kiss
+them. Then commences a perfect torrent of questions on both sides
+regarding each other’s welfare, but to which answers are never given:
+such as, “Peace!” “Peace be with thee!” “How are you?” “How are you?”
+“Peace!” “How are you?” “Peace be with thee!” “Are you very well?”
+“Thanks be to God!” “How are you?” “Are you very well?” “What is your
+colour?” “What is your colour?” “Peace be with thee!” and so on for
+several minutes. After a pause, if they have nothing else to say, they
+begin again _da capo_, “How are you?” &c., &c. One subject they are
+never tired of asking about, viz., the price of grain, butter, and other
+commodities at Benghazi and Derna. A man returning from either of these
+places is therefore subjected by all the people he meets to a most
+tedious cross examination on this interesting topic. Although they may
+have asked the same questions immediately before, they receive the
+answers with some such exclamation of surprise as Wallah! Mashallah! &c.
+If you happen to be travelling from Benghazi, you get dreadfully “bored”
+by the perpetual series of questions: “How much is barley?” “Ha,
+Mashallah!” “How much is wheat?” “By God!” “How much is barley?” “God is
+great!” “How much are bullocks?” “By God, it is good!” and so on until
+you move off. Even then, however, so long as you are within earshot, the
+same questions are shouted after you, so that just before you are
+released by the distance from further interrogation, you may detect the
+faint reply, “God is great!” and some such forgotten inquiry, as, “How
+much are donkeys?”
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 43.—ARAB ARMS OF THE CYRENAICA.]
+
+The habit of swearing is very prevalent, the most trivial statements
+being accompanied by the oath “_Wallah!_” or “_Wallahi!_” (By God!) If
+the truth of the statement is doubted, this oath is repeated thrice in
+succession with great emphasis: “Wallahi, Wallahi, Wallahi!” Its
+impressiveness being much weakened by continual use, other forms of
+asseveration are frequently added, such as: “Hakh El Senoussy!” (The
+truth of Senoussy!), and even “Hakh Sidi Mustapha!” (The truth of Sidi
+Mustapha!”), both of which expressions are considered much more solemn
+by the Cyrene Arabs than the usual “Wallahi!”
+
+The universal use of firearms is caused in a great measure by the
+prevalence of the law of retaliation, or _Vendetta_. If a man of one
+tribe or camp is killed by a man of another, his friends endeavour to
+avenge his death by killing the manslayer, or, failing him, any one
+belonging to his camp. A man is, consequently, quite uncertain whether
+every thicket he passes may not conceal an enemy lying in wait to take
+his life, and he is therefore constantly armed for the purpose of acting
+in self-defence. The wearing of arms has thus become almost a necessity.
+The prohibition by the Government of the sale and use of firearms and
+gunpowder is of no effect, owing to the want of power to enforce it. For
+the same reason the Government takes no cognizance of any crimes but
+such as directly interfere with the collection of the tribute; so that
+the Arabs are left at perfect liberty to indulge their propensities for
+murder, robbery, and theft as much as they please. Let the reader
+imagine a country some miles in length, inhabited by a proud, passionate
+race of barbarians, who are divided into innumerable tribes and
+families, mutually jealous of each other, with no fixed dwelling-places,
+and under no restraint from the force of public law,—and he will have a
+fair idea of the state of Barbary at the present day.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 44.
+
+WADY LEBAIATH, BETWEEN CYRENE AND APOLLONIA
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER X.
+
+
+PREVIOUSLY to the arrival of the _Assurance_, we made several excursions
+to different places in the Cyrenaica, the first of which was to Marsa
+Sousah, for the purpose of examining the road, with a view to the future
+transport of the Bacchus and other statues. Accompanied by Cesareo and
+Amor, we started from Cyrene on the 14th of January, and reached Marsa
+Sousah in four hours. The present Arab path follows the ancient road,
+which is distinctly marked by the deep tracks of the chariot-wheels.
+After crossing the lower plateau, the road approaches the head of the
+Augubah, through a dense wood of juniper, carub, and olive trees; on
+emerging from which it is carried across a sort of saddleback between
+two exceedingly picturesque wadys, about 1,000 feet in depth. A sketch
+of one of which is given in Plate 44.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 45.—EASTERN CITY WALL AND RUINS OF APOLLONIA.]
+
+The remains of the ancient city of Apollonia are not of great interest,
+and seem generally to belong to a comparatively late period. The city
+wall can be easily traced throughout its circuit, some parts of it still
+standing to a considerable height. Just outside the wall, on the eastern
+side of the city, is a theatre in a very perfect state of preservation,
+and within the wall the ground is almost covered with the ruins of
+ancient buildings. Among these are the remains of two temples,
+distinguishable by the heaps of fallen columns, capitals, and
+architraves. Of the two, one is of white marble, and the other of a
+coarse Cipollino marble streaked with green, which has probably given
+rise to the erroneous report that large columns of _verde antico_ are to
+be found among the ruins of Apollonia. In the immediate vicinity of the
+city are a number of plain tombs cut in the rock, now used as grain-
+stores by the few Greek traders who occasionally visit this place for
+the purchase of the produce of the country. In a mass of ruins within
+the city we found two Latin crosses engraved on blocks of marble, almost
+the only decided relics of Christianity we met with in the Cyrenaica. On
+the northern side of the city there were some ancient tanks, and traces
+of an aqueduct could also be made out. The harbour, which is too small
+and shallow for even the coasting vessels of the present day, is
+protected from seaward by some rocky islets at its entrance.
+
+As we had no tent with us, we took up our quarters for the night in the
+outer chamber of an ancient tomb, where we were visited in the evening
+by a neighbour troglodyte, a skipper from Candia. He spoke the
+inarticulate Turkish patois common to all Candiotes, and, although he
+looked more like a Greek than a Turk, called himself a Mussulman. He was
+buying up all the grain and butter he could get from the Arabs, while
+waiting for his vessel, which was gradually collecting a cargo at
+different places along the coast. Some of his sailors were with him to
+assist in keeping guard at night, as the Arabs were continually on the
+look-out for an opportunity of robbing him. He told us he had
+established himself in a tomb with a single narrow entrance, so that he
+could defend himself against considerable odds. We gave him some powder
+and bullets, for which he was very thankful, as his stock was by this
+time nearly expended.
+
+During the night we were aroused by a creeping, rustling sound close to
+us, which made us instinctively seize our guns and revolvers. While
+straining our eyes to detect an Arab assassin in the surrounding
+darkness, the cause of alarm, in the form of a huge porcupine, suddenly
+emerged from an inner chamber of the tomb, rushed through the
+smouldering fire that was burning in front, and made his escape amid a
+cloud of sparks and flame.
+
+Our friend the Candiote told us there was a much better anchorage than
+Marsa Sousah at a place called Sousa Hamema, about fifteen miles to the
+westward. On further inquiry regarding it, he said that its excellence
+consisted in the fact that a vessel could _get away_ from it if a storm
+came on from seaward, whereas it was almost impossible to beat out of
+Marsa Sousah in the teeth of a northerly wind. We resolved to visit it
+on the first favourable opportunity.
+
+We returned to Cyrene the following day in a perfect torrent of rain,
+from which, however, we were well protected by our burnouses, which had
+been equally serviceable as beds the night before.
+
+Shortly after this, we visited a place called Imghernis, spoken of by
+the Arabs as full of ancient ruins. It is situated near the edge of the
+upper plateau, about eight miles from Cyrene. A number of walls and
+buildings are still standing, some of them to the height of about thirty
+feet. They seem, however, to be of a late period, and almost no traces
+of marble are to be seen. In the neighbourhood are a good many tombs,
+both built and excavated, some of which are of evidently much earlier
+date than the ruins of the town.[4] There were also several large
+reservoirs cut in the rock, and roofed over with long flags of stone.
+
+On the occasion of a second visit which we paid to Imghernis some time
+afterwards, we were greatly annoyed by a tribe of Arabs, who surrounded
+us, and in the most dictatorial manner ordered us to leave the place.
+They threatened to shoot us, and for some time seemed on the point of
+actually trying to do so. Amor, however, meanwhile advised them for
+their own sakes not to attempt violence, telling them quietly that all
+who had in any way thwarted us at Cyrene, including the Mudir and Sidi
+Mustapha himself, had suffered in consequence; and that they might rest
+assured that the Consul at Benghazi would have ample vengeance for any
+injury we might receive. After some time, they showed their faith in the
+soundness of his advice by moving off; and although we remained at
+Imghernis all night and part of next day, we saw no more of them.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 46.
+
+RUINS OF IMGHERNIS
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+Our next excursion was to Derna; one object of our trip, among others,
+being to pay a visit to Mr. De Fremeaux, the British vice-consul, who
+had very kindly sent us from time to time such supplies as we required
+which Derna could afford. We started with Cesareo from Cyrene on the
+26th of February, taking with us Amor’s brother, Abderrahim, and a camel
+to carry a tent and baggage. Two hours and a half after starting, we
+passed a few indefinite ruins at a place called Labrak, the scene, some
+thirty years ago, of the great battle between the tribes of Birasa and
+Haasa, the former under their redoubtable Sheikh Bou Bakr Ben Hadood.
+The Haasa were completely defeated, and 700 of them are said to have
+been buried on the battle-field.
+
+An hour and a quarter further on, and a little to the left of the road,
+are a few ruins called by the Arabs Gabiout Younes, where there is an
+arched gateway of recent date still standing nearly perfect. About a
+mile beyond, are the ruins of what seems to have been a place of some
+importance, now called by the Arabs Tirt, where we found a small Zauyah,
+containing a rude building used as a mosque. The Arabs who were
+loitering about the place gave us a malicious scowl as we passed, but
+did not interfere with us. No traces of architectural buildings were to
+be seen.
+
+From Tirt we rode about seven miles through a wood of arbutus and
+juniper, over a rough stony road, to Lamloudeh (Lebdis), where there are
+the remains of a town of considerable extent. Among the ruins are a
+number of very perfect arches and tombs, and also some large reservoirs
+at which we watered the horses and filled our water-skins. From
+Lamloudeh we continued our journey till sunset, when we halted for the
+night, encamping on the side of a hill called Kubbeh, where we found two
+fountains of good water, and some tombs excavated in the rock.
+
+The following morning we started early, and rode about ten miles over a
+monotonous undulating country containing neither shrub nor tree. In this
+plain we passed some ruins on a slight eminence, close to the road
+called Beit Thamr, and a little further on, some tombs cut in the rock.
+We then entered a wood of arbutus, juniper, and olive, which, with a few
+breaks, extended to the head of the Augubah, where we first came within
+view of the seashore, and in the distance, away to the eastward, the
+town of Derna. The neighbouring hills are perfectly bare, so that the
+town, with its luxuriant date-gardens, forms quite an oasis in the stony
+desert around. The Augubah is similar to that of Marsa Sousah, being in
+fact part of the same range of mountains. The descent is very steep, and
+in some places where the surface of the rock has been worn smooth, it is
+very difficult for the horses to keep their feet. We got to the plain at
+the bottom in half an hour, after which we had a two hours’ ride over
+loose stones and shingle before we reached the town. The whole distance
+from Cyrene is sixteen hours, or about fifty miles.
+
+On our arrival we were most hospitably received by Mr. De Fremeaux, who
+kindly furnished us with quarters at his house. He had himself arrived
+only a month before to succeed Mr. Aquilina, who had occupied the post
+of unpaid consular agent at Derna for upwards of a quarter of a century,
+during which time he was generally the only European in the place. In
+the course of the evening we were visited by the Kolaghassi (Major)
+commanding the troops, and the recently appointed Mudir, to whom we had
+given a passage in the _Boxer_ from Tripoli to Benghazi. The Kolaghassi,
+who indulged in an amount of snuff perfectly astonishing, seemed, from
+the compound effect of tobacco and raki, to be in an incipient state of
+_delirium tremens_. The Mudir, an Albanian by birth, had spent the last
+twenty years in Barbary and Fezzan. Both were profuse in their offers of
+friendship, and the Mudir, on returning to the castle, sent us as a
+present a Roman silver coin and a small silver sphinx which had been
+found in the neighbourhood.
+
+The town of Derna, with its gardens, covers a small triangular plain,
+formed by a projection of the seashore from the base of the range of
+hills already so frequently referred to. The shingly bed of a deep wady,
+which recedes several miles into the range, divides the small plain and
+the town into two distinct portions. On the eastern side are the two
+villages of Upper and Lower Bou Mansour; and on the western, a village
+on a spur of the hills called Il Maghar, Derna proper lying immediately
+below, and a small detached village, called Gebéli, near the projecting
+headland. The whole assemblage of villages constitutes the town of
+Derna, which is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient Darnis. The
+remains of a few ancient walls may be traced in different parts of the
+town; and the name of the village on the spur, Il Maghar (the cave or
+rock-tomb), denotes the existence there of ancient sepulchres.
+
+The beauty and fertility of the little plain of Derna are owing to the
+copious stream of fresh water which flows down the bed of the wady. Some
+two or three miles above the town the water is collected into an
+artificial aqueduct, by which it is led into the town, and thence
+distributed over the surrounding fields and gardens by means of small
+lateral branches. To insure the regular supply to every man’s property,
+a “Chief of the Water” is appointed, whose duty it is to see that a
+supply is sent to every district in succession, and to prevent any one
+from diverting for his own use the stream that for the time belongs to
+his neighbour. Water-stealing is very properly considered a serious
+crime, and is punished accordingly.
+
+The houses are built with lime, and are altogether much superior to
+those of Benghazi. Most of them, too, are whitewashed, which gives the
+town a clean, wholesome appearance. Derna proper is surrounded on all
+sides by luxuriant gardens, and appeared to us a perfect Paradise after
+the wild and uncultivated country we had been accustomed to; but whether
+a stranger, coming direct from Malta or Candia, would be equally struck
+with its beauty it is difficult to say. Fruits and vegetables of all
+kinds grow in abundance, particularly dates, melons, figs, grapes,
+pomegranates, and bananas. The thick groves of tall palm-trees form a
+conspicuous and beautiful feature in the scene.
+
+The town contains a large mosque, a bath, a market-place, a small
+bazaar, and a castle built at the same time as those of Merdj and
+Ghegheb. There is a considerable export trade in grain, butter, and
+wool, chiefly to Canea, in Crete. In the bazaar are shops or stalls of
+different kinds, most of which belong to Jews. The town Arabs being to
+some extent civilized, look down on their brethren, the Bedouins of the
+country, and think them fair game for any amount of deception and
+practical joking. An instance of this occurred in the case of our camel-
+driver. While lounging about the bazaar, an auctioneer showed him a pair
+of pistols he was selling at the time, and asked him what he thought of
+them. “Wallah! zain” (By God! good), was the reply. In a short time the
+auctioneer returned, bawling out a large price as the last bid, and
+handing the pistols to the camel-driver, again asked his opinion of
+their quality. “Wallah! zain!” repeated the camel-driver. “Well, no one
+has bid higher than you, so here they are, and give me the money.” “But
+I never bid for them at all! I have no money to buy such pistols as
+these!” “No money! Never bid! Did you not say ‘Wallah! zain!’ when I bid
+a price for you? Wallahi! if you do not pay you go to prison.” The other
+Arabs in the bazaar took up the chorus, “Wallahi! you shall go to
+prison. We’ll have none of your Bedouin tricks here!” and to the castle
+prison he was hauled off accordingly. He was, of course, released when
+his companion, Abderrahim, came and told us of his misfortune.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 47.
+
+DERNA
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+We returned the visit of the Mudir, and also called on the Kolaghassi,
+who told us that if we would come to the castle the next day he would
+have the troops turned out and put through their drill in our presence.
+He considered himself a great tactician, and showed us a Turkish book on
+military movements, illustrated with diagrams, by the study of which he
+said he had acquired his proficiency. When we went to the castle on the
+following morning, after the usual pipes and coffee, he showed us the
+barrack-rooms, &c., which were all in very good order. He pointed out
+with great pride some fantastic arabesques in red and black with which
+the white-washed walls were covered, informing us that they were all
+designed by himself. They forcibly reminded us of the way in which a
+small boy delights to ornament a blank wall with a piece of chalk. The
+two companies of infantry were by this time drawn up for inspection.
+Their clothing was certainly not of the best quality, but their arms
+were good and in excellent condition. Some manœuvres were then executed
+in an open space in front of the castle. The men drilled very steadily,
+although impeded in their movements by the clumsy formation of three
+ranks, and the interference of the supernumeraries, whose chief
+occupation seemed to consist in kicking the shins of the men in the rear
+rank.
+
+On the last day of our stay we rode about five miles up the wady,
+accompanied by Mr. de Fremeaux. The sides are very steep, and in many
+places quite perpendicular; and the stream which flows along the bed
+causes a luxuriant growth of reeds and oleanders, which give the ravine
+a most picturesque appearance.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 48.—CASTLE OF DERNA.]
+
+Before leaving Derna we examined the shops in the bazaar and bought
+everything useful we could find. On the fourth day after our arrival we
+left for Cyrene, which we reached without incident the following day. It
+was during our absence that our workmen made the first discoveries of
+sculpture at the Temple of Apollo.
+
+On the 3rd of April we visited Sousah Hamema (Phycus), the anchorage
+spoken of by the Candiote skipper. It is confounded by Beechey with
+Apollonia, which he calls Marsa Sousah Hamema. The one place is Marsa
+Sousah and the other Sousah Hamema, so named from the number of rock-
+pigeons (hamem) which frequent its neighbourhood. The distance from
+Cyrene, seven hours or twenty-one miles, was greater than we had been
+led to believe. From the foot of the Cyrene range we crossed the lower
+plateau in a north-western direction, and descended the Augubah to the
+plain on the shore by a steep rocky tract exactly similar to those on
+the roads to Marsa Sousah and Derna. About two hours to the westward of
+this point, we reached Sousah Hamema, which occupies the point called
+Ras Sem, a name which seems to have become obsolete, as none of the
+Arabs we spoke to were acquainted with it. The harbour is simply a small
+bay not half a mile wide, and perfectly open to the north. We found a
+small schooner from Canea at anchor outside. Remains of buildings were
+to be seen on both sides of the bay, and also a considerable number of
+rock tombs. The eastern side, however, which contained the greater
+number of these, was occupied by one of those pests of Barbary, a
+Zauyah, which prevented our making an examination of it. As there was
+nothing of interest to detain us, we left in the evening to return to
+Cyrene. Night overtook us in the plain at the foot of the Augubah; but
+after dark we saw at some distance the light of a fire, which guided us
+to an Arab camp, where we passed the night. The following day we
+returned to Cyrene by a path some five or six miles to the eastward of
+the one by which we had gone to Sousah Hamema the day before. In
+traversing the lower plateau, both going and coming, we very often
+passed the traces of ancient roads, and the remains of tombs and other
+buildings, which clearly showed that the whole plain had at a former
+period been thickly inhabited.
+
+Having now examined the sites of all the cities of the Pentapolis except
+Teuchira and Ptolemais, we proposed to visit those places before the hot
+weather set in for the summer. The month of April is by far the most
+agreeable season for travelling in this part of Africa. The water which
+has collected here and there during the winter is not yet dried up by
+the heat of the sun, so that a sufficient quantity for replenishing the
+water-skins can always be obtained without much trouble. The heavy rains
+which make a winter journey so unpleasant, are by this time past, the
+weather is cool and bright, and the country is covered with a varied
+vegetation which adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Later in the
+year, the traveller would fail to recognize many a lovely valley which
+he had admired only a month or two before.
+
+We left Cyrene on the 13th of April, accompanied by Amor and three of
+his friends in the capacity of guides and escort, with a camel to carry
+our tent, bedding, and provisions. Taking the road to Merdj and
+Benghazi, we passed close to the Zauyah El Beidah and along the
+beautiful Wady Il Aggur to Gusr Biligadem, where we encamped for the
+night. Many parts of the road, and particularly the eight or nine miles
+through the Wady Il Aggur, were rich and beautiful beyond description.
+Trees and shrubs were in full bloom, and flowers of endless variety hung
+in clusters from the branches of the trees, twined up the faces of the
+cliffs, and covered the fresh greensward at our feet, filling the air
+with the most delicious perfume. Roses, honeysuckle, myrtle, and
+oleander grew in great profusion. The country sometimes appeared a
+literal bed of roses.
+
+While riding along the wady, we noticed that the partridges, when
+disturbed, had the peculiar habit of alighting on trees, in which
+position we shot three or four of them.
+
+Our next day’s journey was also through a very fine country, the road
+passing over a succession of hills and valleys. The hills were generally
+overgrown with juniper, arbutus, and brushwood, with occasionally trees
+of larger growth, such as the oak, the carub or locust-tree, and the
+olive; and the valleys were either sown with grain or left fallow for
+pasture. After travelling eight hours and a half, we pitched our tent in
+a gully near an Arab camp, where we were soon joined by a large party of
+Arabs on their way to Benghazi. They were all very civil, and the women
+in the camp prepared a huge dish of bazeen for our supper, besides
+supplying us liberally with water and leben. We shared with the company
+the partridges we had shot, and gave them what they had never seen
+before,—a cup of tea. The partridges were cooked _au naturel_ in a very
+primitive manner, being simply thrown into the fire as they were,
+feathers and all.
+
+It may be mentioned here that the Arabs are much more scrupulous than
+the Turks regarding the sin of eating unclean animals, or such as have
+not been killed by a Mahommedan according to the requirements of the
+Koran. When an animal is to be killed, the operator, before cutting its
+throat, turns its head in the direction of Mecca, and invokes a
+blessing. The short prayer, the look towards the Gibli, and the letting
+of blood afterwards, are the three essential forms which must in all
+cases be complied with. The attention paid to this law was of great
+convenience to us when shooting in the company of our Arab attendants,
+as it saved us the trouble of picking up the game we killed. Whenever a
+bird fell, one of the Arabs was sure to rush after it, knife in hand, to
+take its life in an orthodox manner before it had given its final kick.
+They could thus partake with a clear conscience of what we had shot
+during the day; otherwise they had to content themselves with a piece of
+dry bread or biscuit for dinner. The Arabs themselves hardly ever shoot,
+powder and lead being much too valuable to throw away on any game less
+noble than man.
+
+About half an hour after starting on the following morning, the 15th, we
+came to a group of ancient wells, some four or five in number, called
+the “Libiar Il Gharib.” They were carefully lined with masonry, and
+contained a good supply of excellent water. Many such wells and cisterns
+still exist as the monuments of a former age; but, with a few rare
+exceptions, they are now choked up and dilapidated. We halted here for
+about an hour to draw water for the camel and the horses, and to let the
+Arabs have their breakfast. From Il Gharib the same hilly country
+continued for about three hours, after which the road emerged on the
+large plain of Bograta, which is surrounded by hills, and contains a few
+half-ruined wells. We halted a few minutes at a camp near the end of the
+plain, where we drank camel’s milk for the first time. It is considered
+wholesome, but is certainly not very palatable, as it tastes somewhat
+like cow’s milk mixed with salt. Leaving Bograta, the road led through a
+gorge in the mountains, from the mouth of which we looked down upon the
+great plain of Merdj, stretching away to the south and west as far as
+the eye could reach.
+
+We had heard from Benghazi that our old friend Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha
+had resigned his governorship, and was at Benghazi on his way home; so
+that, on our arrival at the castle in the afternoon, we were most
+agreeably surprised to find him back again as hearty and hospitable as
+ever. He gave us a most cordial welcome, and seemed truly delighted to
+see us. He had none of the ceremonial politeness so common in the East,
+but was really a downright honest, good-hearted fellow, a perfect John
+Bull, both in appearance and disposition.
+
+As it was past noon when we arrived, we stayed all night at the castle,
+where, besides Hadji Achmet himself, we found the newly-appointed Mudirs
+of Ghegheb and Derna and a military kaimacam, who had been sent from
+Tripoli as receiver-general of the miri, or tribute, from the country
+east of Benghazi. They were accompanied by Suliman Captan, one of the
+most remarkable men in the country. He was the grandson of a Scotch
+captain, who had turned Mahommedan, and settled in Tripoli, where he
+became a sort of admiral under the Beys of the Karamanli dynasty.
+Suliman Captan was Mudir of Ghegheb immediately before Lemin Ben Sitewi,
+and during his tenure of office acquired a great reputation for the
+courageous manner in which he kept the Arabs under his control. The
+tribes about Cyrene still retained a lively recollection of his own
+rule. On one occasion, however, his boldness nearly cost him his life. A
+tribe of Arabs having refused to pay their miri, he went to their camps,
+attended by only eight soldiers, to insist upon payment. Thinking this a
+favourable opportunity for paying off many an old score, the tribe
+surrounded him in overpowering numbers, determined to take his life.
+Nothing daunted, he cut his way through the whole mob, and succeeded in
+gaining the castle, although with no less than four bullets in his body.
+A broad scar right across his forehead marks the track of a ball from
+which he can have escaped with his life only by a hair’s breadth.
+
+The new Mudir of Ghegheb, as we were informed by a letter from Mr.
+Crowe, had received the most stringent orders from the Kaimacam to
+attend to our requisitions, and afford us every assistance in his power.
+He seemed a weak, mild individual, not at all fitted for the difficult
+task of extracting the due amount of tribute from the unruly tribes he
+had to deal with, and still less to be of much use to us, should we ever
+have occasion to require his intervention on our behalf. We were told by
+Hadji Achmet that the Pacha of Tripoli, aware of his weakness, had
+appointed as his official adviser the famous Bou Bakr Ben Hadood, the
+head of the large tribe of Birasa, who had been governor of the Ghegheb
+district for many years, both under the Karamanlis and the Turks. On our
+return to Cyrene, we found that this appointment had stirred up the
+wrath of our neighbours, the Haasa, who had never forgiven Bou Bakr for
+their signal defeat by him at Labrak. Their mutual hatred and fear gave
+rise, as we shall presently see, to serious disturbances.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 49.—ARAB CAMP NEAR TEUCHIRA.]
+
+We remained at Merdj till the middle of the following day, when we
+started for Teuchira. The road led, in a north-western direction, from
+the castle over a level grassy plain, which gradually sloped up to the
+brink of the Augubah, near which we pitched our tent for the night,
+close to an Arab encampment. The country was better cultivated and more
+thickly inhabited than any part of the Cyrenaica we had yet seen. Early
+next morning, the 17th, we descended the Augubah by a much better road
+than those at Marsa Sousah and Derna, and reached the ruins of Teuchira
+in about two hours, the distance from Merdj being altogether about
+eight. We encamped in one of the large quarries, to the eastward of the
+city.
+
+Teuchira, named by the Ptolemies, Arsinoë, is now called Tocra, an
+Arabic corruption of its original name. It stands on the sea-shore,
+about two miles from the foot of the Augubah, and about 38 miles from
+Benghazi (Hesperis). The remains of the ancient city are of
+comparatively little interest, and consist for the most part of
+indefinite heaps of ruined buildings belonging to the period of the
+Roman occupation of the country. The city wall, rebuilt by the Emperor
+Justinian, is in good preservation, and in many places still stands to
+its original height. In its circuit of nearly a mile and a half, there
+are altogether twenty-six quadrangular towers, which project from the
+general line of the wall, for the purpose of flank defence. Within the
+walls, we could distinguish the sites of several temples and churches,
+in one of which we observed a Greek cross deeply engraved on a stone;
+but not a vestige of marble was anywhere to be seen. Outside the city
+are a number of quarries, in the sides of which there are many excavated
+tombs. These are generally plain chambers, devoid of ornament of any
+kind; a few, however, are painted, and some of them contain inscriptions
+cut on small faces sunk in the face of the rock, which have a remarkable
+resemblance to mural tablets in churches at the present day.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 50.
+
+RUINS OF PTOLEMAIS
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+The country in the vicinity abounded with partridges, quail, snipe,
+pigeons, and doves. The weather on the day of our arrival was very
+disagreeable, squalls and heavy showers coming on at frequent intervals.
+Next day, the 18th, was little better; but as we had passed a most
+comfortless and sleepless night amid swarms of fleas, and as nothing of
+interest remained to be seen, we started about mid-day for Tolmeitah
+(Ptolemais).
+
+There was a very fair road following the line of the shore the whole
+way. We saw no remarkable ruins, although we occasionally passed the
+remains of ancient buildings. Towards evening we came within view of a
+high building that marks from a great distance the situation of
+Tolmeitah. As we approached, we found that it was a large tomb of
+excellent construction, about half a mile to the westward of the city.
+It was now getting dark, and we pitched our tent in an ancient quarry
+between the large tomb and the western gate of the city, choosing this
+spot, as at Tocra, on account of the shelter it afforded from the wind.
+The distance from Tocra was altogether seven hours and a half, or about
+twenty-five miles. Some Arabs, who had halted for the night in the next
+quarry to ours, were very anxious to sell us part of a dead camel, and
+seemed quite astonished when we told them we would not have it if they
+offered it for nothing. The animal they said had broken down, and they
+had cut its throat “to save its life,” so that the flesh was perfectly
+good for food.
+
+The two following days were spent in examining the ruins under the
+guidance of the Arabs of a small encampment we found near the foot of
+the hills. We were sorry to hear from them that we had just missed
+meeting an English man-of-war, which had anchored off Tolmeitah the day
+before our arrival. From their description we conjectured rightly that
+it was the _Medina_, Captain Spratt, then surveying the coast,
+preparatory to the laying of the Malta and Alexandria telegraph cable.
+Three of the officers, accompanied by an interpreter, had landed and
+remained on shore half the day.
+
+The position of Ptolemais is very similar to that of Teuchira and
+Apollonia, the only difference being that at Ptolemais the ground rises
+more rapidly from the shore to the foot of the hills, which at this
+point come to within a mile and a quarter from the coast. The city,
+which is nearly square in form, occupies the whole breadth of the slope
+between the hills and the sea, and is inclosed by walls which can still
+be distinctly traced. The great gateway in the western wall is still
+standing, and is remarkable for the excellence of its masonry. It is
+built of massive ashlar-work without mortar, the stones of which are
+laid in alternate courses of “headers” and “stretchers,” like English
+bond brickwork. The faces of the stones are roughly dressed, and the
+joints deeply sunk like the “rustic” work of the present day. The
+otherwise unbroken surface of the walls is thereby relieved, and the
+general appearance of the building greatly improved.
+
+The eastern wall of the city follows the side of a small ravine leading
+to the sea from one of the Wadys in the range of hills above. At a point
+nearly opposite the centre of the wall, this ravine is spanned by the
+arch of a bridge still standing, which appears to have been built for an
+aqueduct, which we could trace distinctly for some distance from the
+city. Within the walls the aqueduct led in the direction of a series of
+enormous reservoirs near the centre of the city, which were pointed out
+to us by one of the Arabs. Guided by him, we crept underground through a
+small opening into a chamber, about one hundred feet long and twenty
+feet broad, completely arched over, from which we passed through a
+series of about half a dozen similar vaults, all of apparently the same
+size, and connected with each other by doorways in the walls below the
+springing of the semicircular arches of the roofs. They were beautifully
+built of ashlar-work, and lined with cement, but were so filled up with
+rubbish that we could not make out either their exact length or their
+number, as only parts of them were clear enough to allow a passage. In
+one or two of them there was a little water, to which some goats had
+found their way by a larger opening than that by which we entered. They
+were, doubtless, built by the Romans, and must have been of the greatest
+benefit to the city, as the country along the shore is much more liable
+to droughts than the high land beyond the Augubah. “We are informed,”
+says Beechey, “that the town of Ptolemeta suffered at one time so
+severely from want of water, that the inhabitants were obliged to
+relinquish their houses and disperse themselves about the country in
+different directions. The reparation of the aqueducts and cisterns of
+the town, which, it seems, had fallen into decay, restored Ptolemeta to
+its former flourishing state; and this act is recorded among many others
+of a similar nature performed at the command of Justinian in the eulogy
+of that emperor by Procopius. As Ptolemeta is unprovided with springs,
+the care of its reservoirs and aqueducts must have been at all times
+peculiarly essential; and we find that its buildings of this class are
+among the most perfect of its existing remains.”
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 51.—GATEWAY IN THE WESTERN WALL OF PTOLEMAIS.]
+
+Close by the entrance to the reservoirs stand three Ionic columns, the
+most conspicuous objects among the ruins of the city. They seem to have
+formed part of a colonnade which surrounded a space paved with mosaic
+immediately over the reservoirs. There are some Corinthian and Doric
+columns lying on the ground, which also appear to have formed part of
+the same colonnade. There is no trace of building within the inclosure.
+
+Between the reservoirs and the sea are the remains of a very large
+building, the walls of which are still standing to a considerable
+height, although there is nothing left to denote with certainty what the
+nature of the building was. It may, very probably, have been a Roman
+bath.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 52.
+
+TOMBS TO THE WESTWARD OF PTOLEMAIS
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 53.
+
+PTOLEMAIS. PLAN OF A CONSPICUOUS TOMB ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE CITY.
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.
+
+Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen]
+
+Close to where the western wall touches the shore, there is a small
+harbour protected by a projecting point of land, and a small rocky
+island, which were at one time connected by an artificial pier. The
+space thus inclosed is so shallow, and so limited in extent, that it can
+only have been available for a few light vessels.
+
+Of all the remains of Ptolemais, the most prominent is the large tomb to
+the westward of the city, which we passed on the evening of our arrival
+(Plates 52 and 53). It is 55 feet in height, and is still in very
+perfect condition. It is built on a square platform of rock with scarped
+sides, about five or six feet above the surrounding ground, and contains
+a central chamber which occupies the whole length of the tomb, with
+lateral recesses for the reception of the sarcophagi. Close to the
+entrance is a staircase, which we found sufficiently perfect to enable
+us to climb to the top. In the neighbourhood are a number of quarries
+containing excavated tombs similar to those at Teuchira, many of which
+have the names of the occupants inscribed on the face of the rock.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 54.—INSCRIPTIONS OVER THE ENTRANCES TO THE TOMBS AT
+PTOLEMAIS.]
+
+Our last night at Ptolemais was a very uncomfortable one, on account of
+a very strong gibli, or southerly wind, which nearly choked us with
+clouds of dust and sand, and necessitated our turning out every half-
+hour to hammer in the pegs of the tent. We packed up at daybreak, and
+after paying a last visit to the ruins, started for Merdj about the
+middle of the day on the 21st. After riding about two miles to the
+westward of the city, we turned up one of the wadys to our left, and
+commenced the ascent of the Augubah. The strong gibli was still blowing,
+so that although we were greatly sheltered by the range of hills, it
+made our journey very fatiguing and unpleasant. When about half-way up,
+we found that our guides had mistaken the path, and brought us to a
+regular _cul de sac_, from which there was no exit but by returning as
+we came, or climbing what appeared the insurmountable hill in front. We
+chose the latter alternative, and after nearly an hour’s exertions,
+reached the top with our horses, where we lay down under some bushes to
+wait for the camel. We soon found, however, that it was impossible to
+get him up, so we left the drivers to seek the proper pass, while we
+rode on in the direction of Merdj. It was difficult to find a way across
+country among the almost impassable wadys by which we were surrounded;
+but after a two hours’ ride we had the satisfaction of seeing before us
+the great plain of Merdj, dotted over with Arab camps. Thoroughly
+parched by the exertion of climbing, and the burning heat of the gibli,
+we hurried to the nearest tents for something to quench our thirst. The
+cool fresh leben, which was readily offered us by the women, was
+peculiarly refreshing.
+
+A little after sunset we reached the castle, where we were greeted by
+the cheery welcome of our kind friend Hadji Achmet. A really sumptuous
+dinner of bread, rice, mutton, and eggs, was soon prepared and most
+heartily partaken of. Fatigued as we were with a hard day’s work after a
+sleepless night, we thoroughly enjoyed the luxury of sleeping on the
+soft bed-quilts so mindfully provided by our host.
+
+The camel with our baggage arrived the following day at 11 o’clock; and
+about the same time Amor, whom we had sent with letters from Teuchira to
+Benghazi, made his appearance. As there was now nothing to detain us, we
+started at three in the afternoon for Cyrene, after taking leave of
+Hadji Achmet, who, as usual, loaded us with presents of corn and
+provisions. The hot gibli was now blowing more fiercely than ever, and
+felt as if it came from the mouth of a furnace. The air was so thick
+with impalpably fine sand that even the sun was invisible. Several
+square miles of the plain around us were covered with magnificent crops
+of nearly full-grown wheat, which I found, on a subsequent visit, were
+utterly destroyed by this day’s gibli. Between nine and ten o’clock we
+reached the Libiar Il Gharib, near which we passed the night in a hollow
+of the rock, which was preferable to the tent during the hot wind.
+Wrapped up in our burnouses, we slept soundly, notwithstanding the rain
+which came on in the night, and from which the overhanging rock only
+partially sheltered us. The following day we continued our journey, and
+encamped at night at our old halting-place, Gusr Biligadem. The gibli
+had by this time given way to a fresh cool breeze from the north, which
+completely transformed the aspect of the country. Next day (the 24th) we
+reached our quarters at Cyrene, glad to find ourselves again at home.
+During our absence of twelve days, we had travelled over about 250
+miles, the distance in hours being as follows:—
+
+  From Cyrene to Zauyah El Beidah   3½ hours.
+
+    „      „     Gusr Biligadem     9    „
+
+    „      „     Gusr Merdj        25    „
+
+    „    Merdj to Teuchira          7¾   „
+
+    „    Teuchira to Ptolemais      7½   „
+
+    „    Ptolemais to Merdj         5½   „
+
+    „    Merdj to Libiar Il Gharib  7    „
+
+    „      „     Gusr Biligadem    16    „
+
+During the fortnight that elapsed between our return to Cyrene and the
+arrival of the _Assurance_, a serious disturbance arose in the country,
+caused, as already mentioned, by the appointment of Bou Bakr Ben Hadood
+as the official adviser and associate of the new Mudir of Ghegheb.
+According to custom, the sheikhs of the different tribes, and among
+others the ten sheikhs of the Haasa, among whom we lived, went to the
+castle to pay their respects to the newly-appointed governor. Before
+this time, however, Bou Bakr had told the Mudir that the Haasa sheikhs
+were a rebellious, turbulent set, whom he should seize and imprison on
+the first favourable opportunity. Their coming to the castle on a
+peaceful errand was accordingly taken advantage of for carrying this
+sage advice into execution. The men of the tribe, on learning that their
+sheikhs had fallen into the power of their old enemy, appealed to us for
+assistance, and requested us to write to the consul at Benghazi, to
+obtain the liberation of their chiefs. We told them that, as the matter
+in no way concerned ourselves or any one in our service, it was
+impossible for us to interfere. They thereupon called a medjlis, or
+assembly of the whole tribe, in which it was determined to release the
+sheikhs by force before further evil should befall them. They
+accordingly assembled, to the number of about 1,000, in the
+neighbourhood of the castle, and attacked it at midnight. The gate soon
+yielded to their blows, and the garrison was at their mercy. Some firing
+had meantime taken place, in which six Arabs and two soldiers were
+killed or wounded. The prisoners were immediately released; but the
+castle was searched in vain for Bou Bakr, who had wisely retired the day
+before to the camps of his own tribe of Birasa.
+
+The sheikhs, however, were no sooner at liberty than they began to
+reflect on the unpleasant position they were placed in by the rash zeal
+of their followers. The Sultan’s castle had been attacked, and the
+Sultan’s soldiers killed; and although they themselves had been
+prisoners at the time, they knew that it would be vain to disavow their
+complicity in the act of their tribe. Such an open and violent insult to
+the Government must, they feared, be in some way avenged by the Pacha,
+who might possibly send hosts of soldiers to exterminate the tribe. At
+all events, they would suffer severely by being excluded from their only
+markets, Benghazi and Derna, by the fear of their falling into the hands
+of the Pacha. A Medjlis was called to deliberate on their difficulties,
+at which it was determined to make a second application to us for
+assistance. The sheikhs accordingly came to our quarters, and in the
+name of the whole tribe begged us to intercede in their behalf. They
+urged that they had been imprisoned simply to gratify Bou Bakr, and for
+no offence of their own; nevertheless, that, to preserve the peace, they
+had represented to the Mudir that they could not answer for the
+consequences if at least one of their number were not allowed out of
+prison to control the passions of the Arabs, while the remaining nine
+were retained as hostages. As this was refused, and they were all kept
+in close confinement, they knew nothing of what was going on until they
+heard the firing and battering at the gate of the Castle during the
+assault. It would, therefore, be unjust to punish them for a crime of
+which they were perfectly innocent, and it would even be hard to hold
+the tribe responsible for its actions when suddenly and treacherously
+deprived of the advice and guidance of their only chiefs. It was
+certainly wrong to attack the Castle; but what was to be expected in the
+circumstances; and had they not warned the Mudir of the consequences of
+his own act? Besides, by appealing to us in the first instance, the
+tribe had taken the only peaceable means they had of obtaining the
+release of their sheikhs.
+
+We asked them why they did not tell or write all this to the Pacha, who
+was the proper judge of their conduct. Their answer was, “You know
+yourselves well enough what the result would be; our remonstrances would
+never be listened to, and we or our messengers would only be seized and
+imprisoned with irons: our only hope in a case like this is in the
+Consul.” We said that if the Consul interfered, the Pacha had a perfect
+right to say, “Are the Haasa Arabs Englishmen? This is none of your
+business.” “There is no chance,” replied they, “of his saying anything
+of the kind; when the Consul speaks, the Pacha must obey.”
+
+As we knew very well that the Pacha had not the power to punish the
+tribe, we thought it probable that he would be glad of any excuse for
+saving his dignity by pardoning the offence. We therefore believed that
+our intercession would be as welcome on the one side as on the other;
+and, if successful, that it would be most useful to ourselves, by
+establishing our influence over the tribe in whose country we resided.
+
+Mr. Crowe having left for England, we wrote to the above effect to Mr.
+Aquilina, then acting as vice-consul at Benghazi, and requested him to
+use his own discretion in bringing the matter before the Kaimacam. He
+immediately called at the Castle, and read a translation of our letter
+to the Kaimacam, who, as we had conjectured, readily promised to pardon
+the tribe. We soon after received a letter from the Kaimacam himself,
+informing us that, in consequence of our intercession, he had been
+pleased to forgive the Haasa the very serious crime of which they had
+been guilty, on condition of their good behaviour and prompt payment of
+the Miri in future.
+
+This letter reached us soon after the arrival of the _Assurance_, when
+Mr. De Fremeaux was with us on a visit from Derna. Immediately after its
+receipt, we summoned the sheikhs to a meeting, at which Mr. De Fremeaux
+read and explained the letter of the Kaimacam. Highly delighted with the
+happy termination of their difficulties, they were profuse in their
+expressions of thanks, and said that they and their tribe were now our
+servants for ever.
+
+Immediately after our return from Ptolemais, and before the above
+disturbances took place, we went to pay a visit to the Mudir at Ghegheb,
+where we also found Bou Bakr and some of his sons. Although nearly
+seventy years of age, he seemed as strong and active as a man of thirty.
+It is said that although Cyrene was the site selected for the existing
+castle, Bou Bakr, who was Mudir at the time of its erection, had it
+built, for obvious reasons, in the territory of his own tribe at
+Ghegheb. It is exactly similar in construction to the Castle of Merdj,
+and stands on a slight eminence in a sheltered position surrounded by
+hills. The country in the neighbourhood is bare and desolate; the only
+recommendation of the site being an abundant spring of excellent water,
+which issues from the rock under the southern wall of the Castle. About
+seven miles and a half from Cyrene, we passed a most remarkable place,
+called by the Arabs Safsaf, where there are a number of reservoirs
+similar to those at Ptolemais, but on a much larger scale. One of them,
+which is cut in the rock and lined with cement, is about sixty yards in
+length, and is still in very perfect condition. It is covered with a
+continuous semicircular arch, which springs from near the ground-line.
+Although in a great measure filled up, it contained a large quantity of
+water when we saw it. These cisterns appear to have been built by the
+Romans for the supply of Cyrene, as an aqueduct may be traced a great
+part of the way to the large reservoirs, also Roman, at the south-east
+corner of the city. Safsaf was evidently chosen as the site of the
+waterworks of Cyrene on account of its position, which is rather above
+the level of the city, and is surrounded by higher ground, which could
+be easily drained into the reservoirs. The distance is considerable; but
+there is no other point nearer Cyrene so well adapted for the purpose.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 55.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF THE LARGE TEMPLE AT THE N.E. END OF THE CITY NEAR THE
+STADIUM. BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.
+
+_Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen_]
+
+
+
+
+                            CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+IT will be remembered that while the _Assurance_ was with us, seven
+blacks, sent by Mr. Aquilina, arrived from Benghazi, and assisted in the
+transport of the statues. With these men we recommenced work on the 9th
+of June, by beginning the excavation of the large temple in the eastern
+part of the city, near the Stadium. The site seemed very promising, both
+on account of the extent and the apparently undisturbed state of the
+remains of the building. In fact, we had been prevented solely by want
+of workmen from digging here long before, as the temple was by far the
+largest, if not the most important, in Cyrene. We began as usual at the
+western end of the building, where we soon came to a large pedestal, 20
+feet square, and 10 feet in height above the pavement. The total length
+of the temple, which consisted of _Pronaos_, _Cella_, and _Posticum_,
+was 169½ feet, by 58 feet in breadth. The interior of the _Cella_, 108
+feet in length, was ornamented on each side with a marble colonnade of
+the Corinthian order. The bases of most of the columns were found _in
+situ_ on square pedestals, projecting from the lateral walls. They were
+two feet in diameter, with an intercolumniation of seven feet. The wall
+of the _Cella_ was built of stones of immense size, the surface of some
+of them measuring upwards of 40 square feet. Enough of the wall was left
+to show the manner in which it was built. The courses were alternately
+of long blocks of stone, about a foot deep, and equal in breadth to the
+thickness of the wall, and of large slabs laid on edge, back to back;
+care being taken to have the work well bonded. The marble _peribolus_
+wall of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus was built in an exactly similar
+manner, strength being, in both cases, sacrificed to appearance.
+
+The exterior colonnade consisted altogether of forty-six columns; viz.
+seventeen on the sides and eight on the ends or fronts of the building.
+As in all the temples of Cyrene, the entrance was in the eastern front.
+The order was Doric, and the stone was the same as that of the temples
+of Bacchus and Apollo. As nearly as we could make out, the columns,
+which were fluted, were six feet in diameter at the base; but as they
+were much worn away, it was impossible to measure them very exactly.
+They had all fallen outwards, and many of the capitals, measuring nine
+feet in diameter, were to be seen cropping out above the surface of the
+ground. The architraves and beams must have been of great size, as the
+columns were 14 feet apart centre from centre, and 18 feet from the face
+of the wall of the _Cella_. The building stood within two degrees of due
+east and west.
+
+In the course of our excavations we came upon innumerable fragments of
+sculpture, evidently of excellent style; but nothing was found in the
+least degree perfect. Amongst them we found, in the middle of the
+_Cella_, between the pillars, a male head in white marble, much
+mutilated, being nearly cracked in two and the nose broken off. It had
+been well executed, and the lips still retained a bright light-red
+colour. This head is rather larger than life. Even the marble columns of
+the interior of the _Cella_ were broken in small pieces, which could not
+have been the result of natural causes. Although the appearance of the
+remains clearly showed that the temple had been wantonly destroyed by
+the hand of man, the discovery of fragments of good style induced us to
+continue the excavation of the building.
+
+In the _Pronaos_, and close to the entrance, we found a block of marble
+measuring 4′ 6″ × 2′ 1″ × 1′, with the inscription given in Plates 78,
+79, No. 6, and on the opposite side of the _Pronaos_, a smaller slab,
+measuring 1′ 4″ × 1′ 3″ × 3″, with the inscription in two columns given
+in Plate 79, No 7. Both these contain lists of names, probably of
+persons contributing to some public subscription.
+
+We also found fragments of an inscribed architrave of sandstone, and
+some pieces of copper and iron; among which may be mentioned a circular
+piece of iron, half an inch in thickness, with two handles like a small
+tub without a bottom. It was 8½ inches in diameter, and 6½ inches in
+height.
+
+As there was no hope of finding anything undestroyed, we abandoned the
+building, after spending seven weeks in its excavation, the only part
+left unfinished being the centre of the _Cella_, which was covered with
+enormous blocks from the side walls. Outside the _Cella_, we only dug
+sufficiently far to discover the exact positions of the columns of the
+peristyle.
+
+On the 17th of June, only nine days after the departure of the
+_Assurance_, we were most agreeably surprised by the unexpected
+appearance at our tomb of a large party of naval officers, consisting of
+Captain Jones and some of the officers of H.M.S. _Scourge_. They were
+the bearers of a telegram and a letter from Mr. Panizzi, by which we
+were informed that the trustees of the British Museum had voted us a
+further sum of £500, and had sent out a carpenter, Mr. Wm. Dennison, to
+assist in packing the statues, &c. He arrived in the _Scourge_, and
+remained with us till our departure from the country. Although there was
+little carpenter’s work to be done till near the close of the
+expedition, he was of great service in superintending the workmen.
+
+The _Scourge_ had anchored off Marsa Sousah early in the morning, when
+Captain Jones and the rest of the party immediately started for Cyrene,
+guided by the directions given them by the officers of the _Assurance_.
+They lost their way, however, in climbing the Augubah, and did not reach
+Cyrene till nearly sunset, much fatigued by their long day’s wandering
+under a burning sun.
+
+The following day, the 18th of June, being the anniversary of the birth
+of the Prophet, there was a great gathering of the Arabs on the upper
+plateau near Cyrene to celebrate the festival of the _Melood_, which we
+attended as spectators by the invitation of the sheikhs. When the men
+were all assembled, they dismounted and ranged themselves in a line of
+two ranks, with their horses picketed in the rear. A long prayer was
+then repeated aloud by the whole line, who made the usual prostrations
+together, like a regiment at drill. Prayers over, they remounted their
+horses, and the tournament began. An open level space being chosen,
+those about to engage in the games placed themselves in two irregular
+lines, facing each other, about 150 yards apart, the mere spectators
+like ourselves remaining at the sides. The object of the game, or rather
+exercise, is to show the skill of the rider in handling his weapons and
+directing his horse when at full gallop. A man, for instance, breaks out
+from one of the lines, and canters carelessly toward the other.
+Presently another horseman dashes after him in pursuit, and they tear
+along, _ventre à terre_, till they come close up to the opposite line,
+when they unsling their guns, aim, and fire at each other, at the same
+moment wheeling sharply to the right-about to avoid running into the
+line in front. At other times a number of men gallop straight up to the
+opposite line, deliver their fire, and wheel when at full speed, within
+a yard or two of the stationary line. Sometimes two horsemen engage in a
+sort of running duel, each man riding at full speed, and using pistols,
+blunderbuss, gun, and bayonet. Collisions at the wheeling-point were not
+unfrequent; and as the horses were always going at a great pace, it was
+wonderful that no one was killed. Some of the men were bruised and their
+horses lamed, and one man had several ribs broken. In consequence of the
+general introduction of firearms, this kind of amusement has taken the
+place of the older lance exercise and the throwing of the jereed.
+
+The _Scourge_ being about to proceed to Alexandria to assist in laying
+the Malta telegraph cable, Captain Jones kindly offered to give us a
+passage to Derna if we wished to revisit that place. As we were in want
+of a number of things, we were glad to avail ourselves of the
+opportunity of going. We accordingly left Cyrene with Captain Jones and
+the other officers on the afternoon of the 18th, and got on board the
+same night. We started the following morning at daybreak, and anchored
+off Derna late in the afternoon, when we went ashore, and occupied our
+old quarters at Mr. De Fremeaux’s house, the _Scourge_ leaving soon
+after for Alexandria. Captain Jones had previously most kindly allowed
+us to take from the ship everything likely to prove useful to us. We
+remained at Derna two days, buying articles in the bazaar, and waiting
+for our horses and camels, which we had sent by land from Cyrene. When
+these had been somewhat rested after their arrival, we started on our
+return journey, and by travelling all night, with only an hour or two’s
+halt, reached Cyrene within twenty hours. Among other things which we
+brought from Derna were some thin deals, with which we furnished our
+tomb with a table, shelves, &c.
+
+By this time our money was beginning to run short, and we hardly knew
+how we were to get a fresh supply. The trustees of the British Museum
+having given us authority to draw bills on them to the amount of £500,
+we were anxious, if possible, to get more workmen, and carry on our
+excavations on a larger scale during the remaining months of summer. As
+writing was apt to cause delay, I determined to go to Benghazi myself
+for the purpose of getting both money and men. I started on the
+afternoon of the 6th of July, accompanied by a single mounted Arab; and
+as time was now an object of great importance, I took no camels, and
+consequently had neither water nor baggage of any kind. By halting only
+a few hours each night, I reached Merdj at mid-day on the 8th, and left
+the same evening for Benghazi. Travelling all night and all next day, we
+arrived at Benghazi shortly after sunset on the 9th; thus accomplishing
+the whole journey of 160 miles in three days, and without water after
+leaving Merdj on the evening of the 8th. It was, of course, most
+fatiguing work both for man and horse, especially during the day, when
+the heat of the sun and the want of water were together almost
+intolerable.
+
+As it would have been unsafe to carry a sum of money with me, Mr.
+Aquilina gave me two orders, one on Mr. De Fremeaux, at Derna, and the
+other on our friend Mohammed El Adouly, from both of whom we were to
+draw the amount in instalments as we required it. This proved, as was to
+be expected, a most convenient arrangement, although a Bedouin camp
+seemed an odd place for negotiating bills and keeping a banker’s
+account.
+
+I had no difficulty in getting as many workmen as I wanted. The morning
+after my arrival Mr. Aquilina sent for the Sheikh Il Abid, or chief of
+the negroes, and told him that I wanted twenty good strong blacks to go
+to Cyrene, on the terms of five Turkish piastres (10_d._) a day and food
+for each man. These wages were very high for the country; but we had
+found it impossible to keep men at Cyrene, at such a distance from their
+wives and families, except by paying them so highly that they did not
+like to give up the work; and it was always difficult to get workmen to
+supply the places of those who left, as the blacks were afraid to come
+to Cyrene by themselves, on account of the danger of being seized and
+re-enslaved by the Arabs on the way. It was therefore advisable to pay
+such wages as would not only induce the workmen to remain with us after
+they came, but, by making dismissal from our service a severe
+punishment, would give us the means of enforcing obedience.
+
+At an appointed hour, the Sheikh appeared at the Consulate with fifty or
+sixty men, all eager to be engaged; but as it would have been difficult
+to feed such a number, and as we had only a very limited supply of
+tools, I at first selected only twenty. Before leaving Benghazi,
+however, I was induced to take eight more, which, with the seven we
+already had at Cyrene, made up our number to thirty-five.
+
+Soon after my arrival at Benghazi, I was visited by the Kaimacam in
+state, attended by the “heads of departments;” viz. the Colonel
+commanding the troops, the Cadi or Judge, the Collector of customs, and
+the Sheikh El Beléd, or chief of the town. Suliman Captan and some of
+the principal Arab inhabitants also called; so that I was obliged to
+devote an entire day to returning the visits. I found that the arrival
+and stay of the _Assurance_ had become magnified by report into a much
+more formidable affair than it was. The Kaimacam told me that he had
+been officially informed that an English fleet had come to Marsa Sousah
+and disembarked several thousand soldiers, who were to be employed in
+occupying the country; and that the laying of the telegraph was only a
+part of a general scheme of conquest. I had some difficulty in
+disabusing his mind of the impression that we had some ulterior object
+in view in the works we were carrying on at Cyrene. Our statues and
+waggons, according to the general belief, were artillery; our road to
+the coast, a military one for the use of the army of occupation; and our
+excavations, forts and batteries.
+
+There was, of course, considerable delay in getting fairly started on
+the journey from Benghazi with such a number of blacks. By Mr.
+Aquilina’s advice I gave every man a small advance of pay, to enable him
+to get his own provisions for the journey; thereby saving me the trouble
+of providing for such a number. As there were no water-skins for sale in
+the bazaar, I had to send all over the town to get a sufficient number,
+and the endless debates with camel-drivers had to be undergone as usual.
+
+At last, everything being ready and the men collected, we started on the
+afternoon of the 12th, and after filling the water-skins at the Garden
+of Osman, halted for the night near the foot of the Augubah, about six
+hours’ distance from Benghazi. Although the blacks knew there was no
+more water to be got till we reached Merdj, it required the greatest
+vigilance to keep them from drinking the whole of the contents of the
+girbehs before the morning. About mid-day on the 14th we arrived at
+Merdj, where I was very sorry to find our good friend Hadji Achmet Bin
+’l Agha suffering from a violent attack of fever. Long before our
+arrival, the blacks, with their usual improvidence, had eaten all the
+food they had provided for the whole journey, and I was obliged to look
+out for a fresh supply. There was no bread to be had; but I fortunately
+got a sufficient quantity of dates to serve for the remainder of the
+distance.
+
+After halting a day at Merdj, we resumed our journey at daybreak on the
+16th. Shortly after passing the Libiar Il Gharib in the afternoon, I
+happened to be riding by myself through a wood about a mile ahead of the
+caravan, when my attention was attracted by about a dozen Arabs seated
+under a tree near the path, with their horses standing beside them. They
+looked rather suspicious, and commenced talking rapidly to each other as
+I came up; but as this was nothing unusual, I rode on, thinking that
+they were probably a travelling party halted for a rest. In a few
+minutes, however, I heard a loud shouting and screaming in the rear, and
+on hastening back to see what was the matter, I saw the negroes running
+in all directions, and in such a state of terror that it was some time
+before I could make out what had happened. I finally learned that the
+Arabs whom I had passed in the wood, had charged into the straggling
+caravan, and seized one of the negroes. While some of them were binding
+him on the back of a horse, the others formed a circle round him with
+their bayonets at the “charge,” and threatened to shoot any one that
+interfered. When their prisoner was secured, they rode off with him into
+the wood, and before I came up they had all disappeared. In the course
+of the evening I found out with some difficulty who the perpetrators of
+the outrage were; but although I at once wrote to Benghazi, nothing was
+ever done in the matter, the Kaimacam being unwilling, or more probably
+unable, to apprehend the offenders.
+
+Next day we passed Gusr Biligadem, and leaving the caravan, halted near
+the Zauyah El Beidah: I rode on the same night to Cyrene. The blacks
+arrived the following day, and told me that the Achwani of the Zauyah
+had refused to give them even a drop of water, because they were in the
+service of “Christian dogs.”
+
+By the time I reached Cyrene, the excavation of the large temple near
+the Stadium was almost finished, and the smaller temple near it had just
+been commenced. Before we had dug far, we found unmistakeable proofs
+that the latter building, like the former, had been purposely destroyed.
+It was built on a small rocky eminence which commands one of the finest
+views to be had within the walls of the city. The _Ædes_, consisting of
+_Cella_ and _Pronaos_, occupied the summit, the surrounding rock being
+cut in terraces, so that the peristyle was on a lower level than the
+_Ædes_. Like other temples, it stood nearly east and west. In the
+western end of the _Cella_ were two courses of a pedestal measuring 26
+feet by 15, a little to the east of which the floor of the _Cella_ sank
+two feet. The eastern front had so entirely disappeared, that a
+satisfactory plan of the entrance could not be made, and the positions
+of the columns marked on the Plan are partly conjectural. The columns
+themselves, many fragments of which were lying around the temple, were
+deeply fluted, and of the Doric order, and measured 4 feet 5 inches in
+diameter. In the eastern or lower part of the _Cella_ we discovered a
+few fragments of sculpture of very fine style, but so small and so few
+in number, as to make us only sorry that there were no more. The most
+perfect of these fragments were two small marble statuettes, probably of
+Venus and the nymph Cyrene, which have been photographed together (Plate
+67); and perhaps the most remarkable were three or four parts of a
+colossal male head now put together in the British Museum. As it
+measures 1 foot 8 inches in height, the statue to which it belonged must
+have been 11 or 12 feet high; but not another fragment of it was to be
+seen.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 56.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF THE SMALLER TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM. BY COMMANDER E. A.
+PORCHER R.N.
+
+_Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen_]
+
+Shortly before this time, we had discovered a statue of Minerva, and
+another female dressed statue, rather larger than life, at the place
+marked on the Plan “Statue of Minerva.” Both statues were but little
+injured, so that we hoped, by digging some distance round the place, to
+find the heads. We therefore employed more than half our force in
+excavating at this place and at the other points near it marked on the
+Plan; but we discovered nothing. The removal of the two statues to our
+tomb was the first occasion on which we made use of the stone-trucks
+brought by the _Assurance_. In the course of the excavations, we found
+several _frusta_ of fluted marble columns, which no doubt formed part of
+the building to which the statues belonged. The small building between
+the statue of Minerva and the wall of the citadel was probably a
+monument.
+
+On the 31st of July we returned with our whole force to the Temple of
+Apollo and its immediate neighbourhood. As already mentioned, it was
+only now that we were able to complete the excavation of that building.
+Besides the sculptures found in the Temple itself, we discovered on its
+northern and eastern sides altogether four statues, four statuettes,
+fourteen heads of different sizes, and seven inscriptions. A seated
+figure, rather larger than life, which was lying on the surface, was
+noticed by Beechey, who thought it was Diana; but which we made out to
+be Archippe, of the family of the Ptolemaic dynasty, from the following
+inscription on the base:—
+
+  ΑΡΧΙΠΠΑΝΠΤΟΛΕΜΑΙΟΥ
+
+  ΕΥΙΝΙΕΡΙΤΕΥΟΥΣΑΝΠΤΟΛΕ.
+
+It was in a very imperfect state of preservation, owing to its long
+exposure on the surface of the ground.
+
+Near it we found what appeared to be a copy of itself on a small scale,
+so much alike in every respect were the two figures. The girdle
+encircling the waist was distinctly striped on both edges with bright
+vermilion. The most remarkable of the large statues found at this place
+was a colossal female figure, seven feet in height, in very good
+condition; most probably a portrait of one of the queens of Egypt
+(Photograph Plate 68). The head was separate, and the body broken in
+two, the lower half of which was found in an upright position, and the
+upper half lying across it, with the head on the top. Another statue,
+life-size, discovered here, was a draped figure, the portrait of an old
+man; and among the smaller statues may be mentioned a nude figure of
+Bacchus, 3 feet 7 inches in height.
+
+At the western end of the platform, near the large theatre, we excavated
+the small building marked on the Plan, in which we found a statuette and
+some small marble heads. We also examined the ruins toward the eastern
+end of the platform, but found no traces of sculpture in any of them.
+
+We finished the above excavations near the Temple of Apollo on the 14th
+of August, after which we tried nine separate buildings in different
+parts of the city without success. On the 23rd we commenced the
+excavation of the building to the westward of the Temple of Bacchus,
+marked “Palace” on the Map. Our attention was attracted to this place by
+the torso of a Roman emperor in armour, which had been seen forty years
+before by Beechey, who was of opinion that it was the statue of one of
+the Ptolemies. Considering the number of years it must have lain exposed
+on the surface of the ground, the marble was in a wonderfully good state
+of preservation. After removing it to our tomb, we commenced digging in
+the immediate neighbourhood of the spot in which it was found. In the
+course of our excavations we found traces of a large building consisting
+of several rooms, some of which had their walls and floors veneered with
+thin slabs of marble. The division of the building into separate rooms,
+its central and prominent position in the city, and the nature of the
+sculpture we discovered in it, led us to believe that it had most
+probably been the palace of the Roman governor. Lying on the floor about
+four feet below the surface, we found a large female draped statue in
+very good condition, measuring 5 feet 11 inches in height, but without
+the head, which we failed to discover. We also found busts, life-size,
+of Antoninus Pius and another Roman emperor, quite uninjured (Photograph
+Plates 69 and 70); a female bust well preserved, three heads, and three
+inscriptions. These sculptures, as they were found, were all thickly
+coated with an incrustation of sand and lime, which has been most
+successfully removed in the British Museum by frequently steeping them
+in warm water.
+
+From the 3rd of September little excavation was done for a fortnight,
+most of our workmen being employed in improving and repairing the road
+to Marsa Sousah, preparatory to the removal of the statues when a vessel
+should arrive. The point that particularly required our attention was
+the Augubah, near the shore, which had caused so much trouble and delay
+when the _Assurance_ was with us. On that occasion, we had discovered
+the track of the ancient road winding round the faces of the hills at a
+comparatively easy slope; and we now resolved to make it, if possible,
+practicable for the waggons. In many parts it was almost quite hidden
+with brushwood, and in others it had totally disappeared, owing to the
+slip of its embankment or retaining-wall, caused by the rush of water
+down the steep face of the hill during the heavy rains in winter. By
+clearing away the brushwood, restoring cuttings and embankments, and in
+some places making an entirely new section, we succeeded in forming a
+road by which it was possible to take the waggons up and down the
+mountain without resorting to the laborious and tedious expedients which
+we had formerly been obliged to adopt. We also cleared and improved our
+old road the whole way from Cyrene.
+
+Meantime, a few men had been employed digging at the site marked “Temple
+of Venus,” a little to the south-west of the Temple of Bacchus. When the
+road to Marsa Sousah was finished, we employed all the workmen at this
+building, the excavation of which we had barely finished when H.M.S.
+_Melpomene_ arrived on the 26th of September. Of the temple itself
+nothing but the foundations remained, although it yielded a large amount
+of sculpture.
+
+The _Ædes_, which consisted of _Cella_ and _Pronaos_, was 84 feet in
+length by 35 feet in breadth. No trace of a peristyle could be found.
+The floor of the western half of the _Cella_ was on a higher level than
+that of the rest of the building, access being had to it by flights of
+steps in front and at the sides, as shown in the Plan and Section. At
+the corners of the steps were two circular pedestals, on the northern of
+which faint traces of an inscription could be seen, although it was too
+much worn away to be deciphered. In the eastern part of the _Cella_ were
+six large pedestals of sandstone _in situ_, on which, in all
+probability, stood the statues which we found near them. As the floor of
+the Temple was covered with only three or four feet of soil, we
+completed the excavation of the whole building in little more than a
+week. We found statues and other pieces of sculpture in every part of
+it, but did not discover either the principal statue or any inscription
+by which the Temple could certainly be identified. Our reason for
+calling it the “Temple of Venus,” was that we found in it altogether
+statues or statuettes of that goddess. One of these, a small nude figure
+of Venus Euploia, is remarkably graceful (Photograph Plate 71). In some
+of the other figures she is represented half-draped, with Cupid by her
+side, seated on a dolphin (Photograph Plate 72). Three of the statues
+discovered in this temple were life-size, or rather larger. One of them
+is the figure of a female, perhaps a queen, with a very peculiar head-
+dress (Photograph Plate 73), and the two others, which may be called a
+_pair_ of statues, represent hunters equipped for the chase. The smaller
+statues, besides those of Venus, were, one of Pan, 3 feet 11 inches in
+height, and a draped one, 4 feet 8 inches in height, of Apollo or
+Aristæus resting on a rod encircled by the coils of a serpent. Both of
+these figures were all but perfect, and that of Pan still retained much
+of its original colouring. We also discovered three female busts in very
+perfect condition, two of which, of life-size, had curious high head-
+dresses, somewhat Elizabethan in appearance (Photograph Plate 74). The
+other, which is considerably smaller, is of a peculiarly transparent
+marble resembling alabaster. Some heads were also found besides those
+belonging to the statues and statuettes; among which may be mentioned a
+perfect one of Minerva, smaller than the similar head found in the
+Temple of Apollo, and a small marble head of Perseus (Photograph Plate
+75). A slab of marble was also found, containing in relief a
+representation of Libya crowning with laurel the nymph Cyrene, who is in
+the act of strangling a lion (Photograph Plate 76). Beneath the group,
+and on the same slab, are four lines of inscription which explain the
+allegorical myth which forms the subject of the sculpture.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 57.
+
+CYRENE. PLAN OF A TEMPLE TO THE S.W. OF THE TEMPLE OF BACCHUS. BY
+COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.
+
+Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen]
+
+In the Temple of Venus we discovered altogether six statues of various
+sizes, twenty-nine small statuettes, three busts, twenty-six separate
+heads, including those which belonged to the statues and statuettes, one
+bas-relief, and three inscriptions. About ten yards to the eastward of
+the Temple we saw the two pedestals containing the inscriptions copied
+by Beechey.
+
+
+
+
+                           CHAPTER XII.
+
+
+OWING to the want of means of communication with England, we had not yet
+(September) received answers to our letters sent home by the _Assurance_
+in June, so that we were quite uncertain about the arrival of a ship. In
+writing to Lord Russell and Mr. Panizzi, we had recommended that a much
+larger vessel than the _Assurance_ should be sent, as it was of
+importance to save time by having a working party on shore large enough
+to take three waggons at a time. In the case of the _Assurance_ we had
+found that thirty men, which was the largest number that could be
+spared, were about the proper force for a single waggon. Three waggons
+would therefore require ninety men, a number as large as we could safely
+undertake to supply with the necessary water, camels, &c.
+
+We had also recommended that the vessel sent should arrive at Marsa
+Sousah before the middle of September, to insure our having time enough
+for the transport and embarkation of whatever statues we might find,
+before the fine summer weather should break up. As the very lightest
+wind from the north caused a heavy surf all along the beach, it was
+impossible to carry on boat operations except in perfectly calm weather.
+Day after day, however, passed without any word of the arrival of the
+vessel, and we began to contemplate our continued stay in the country
+for another winter, and to consider how we might best occupy the time.
+As we had already dug every promising spot at Cyrene not occupied by the
+crops of the Arabs, we purposed going to Benghazi to dig in the ancient
+cemetery there, previously burying all the marbles we could not carry
+with us, to protect them from being destroyed by the Bedouins. If the
+vessel came in the following year, they could be exhumed with little
+difficulty.
+
+Since the end of August I had been confined to the tomb, and most of the
+time to bed, by a severe attack of fever, caused, most probably, by
+fatigue and exposure at night during the journey to Benghazi in July.
+With one of our party thus laid up on the “sick list,” and with a
+prospect every day more certain of a further residence of eight months
+in the country, we looked with some anxiety for the expected ship. As
+usual on such occasions, the number of false alarms was so great that we
+at last paid little attention to them. Our Maltese servants, quite
+beside themselves with excitement at the chance of soon returning to
+Malta—their “Fiore del mondo,”—stood gazing at the sea from morning to
+night, and raised a shout of joy whenever they detected the slightest
+speck on the distant horizon.
+
+Their hopes were at last realized on the 26th of September, by the
+appearance of a large frigate standing in towards Marsa Sousah, which
+proved to be H.M.S. _Melpomene_, Captain Ewart, from whom we soon after
+received a note announcing his arrival. As I was still unable to leave
+the tomb, Porcher went down to the ship by himself early next morning,
+to make the necessary arrangements with Captain Ewart, and to accompany
+the working party, while I remained to look after the packing and other
+affairs at Cyrene. Our friend Mohammed El Adouly had, unfortunately for
+us, gone to Benghazi; so that we had not the benefit of his assistance,
+as on the former occasion. The chances of difficulties and
+misunderstandings were, moreover, much increased by the presence of a
+large number of Arabs from the southward, who had lately come to water
+their flocks till winter at the springs in the neighbourhood of Cyrene.
+Having no occupation at this season of the year, they wandered about
+perfectly idle, and therefore in readiness for any mischief. Even before
+the arrival of the _Melpomene_, they had subjected us to considerable
+annoyance, and were becoming daily more and more unfriendly in their
+general demeanour; and there was little doubt that the large addition to
+our numbers brought by the _Melpomene_ would proportionately add to
+their hatred of the “dogs of Nazarenes,” as we were not too courteously
+called. There were, consequently, more than the usual difficulties with
+the numerous camel-drivers we required, who adopted a peculiarly
+insolent tone in dealing with us. In the course of the subsequent
+operations, they frequently refused to take any loads but such as they
+themselves selected, and sometimes struck work altogether, thereby
+causing us a vast amount of unnecessary trouble.
+
+Owing to the excellent arrangements made by Captain Ewart while on the
+passage from Malta, everything was ready for beginning the work
+immediately after the arrival of the ship. The working party had already
+been told off and thoroughly equipped and organized. The shafts of the
+waggons had been taken off and long capstan bars substituted, by which
+the guiding or steering was greatly facilitated—a point of some
+importance, as it was only by means of such powerful levers that the
+heavy waggons could be guided with ease and safety over the rough and
+stony roads. The drag-ropes, too, were fitted with canvas straps to pass
+over the men’s shoulders, by means of which the dragging was done much
+more easily than by hand.
+
+All the plank and other stores required for packing the statues were
+landed immediately after the arrival of the ship, and sent up to Cyrene
+as rapidly as we could get camels to carry them. Ten carpenters and a
+guard of ten marines under the command of Lieutenant Saunders, R.M.,
+came up to Cyrene the same day, and the work of making cases and packing
+was begun at once under the superintendence of Mr. Dennison. A working
+party of ninety men, fully equipped with tents, water-breakers,
+provisions, &c., was then disembarked under the command of Lieutenant
+Carter, R.N., ten camels with their drivers being told off to attend to
+their wants. The waggons, three in number, were the artillery platform
+waggons of the service, the same as those used by us on the former
+occasion. Each waggon had its own “crew” of thirty men, under the
+immediate command of one of the three midshipmen attached to the
+party,—Messrs. Jackson, Cane, and Wade.
+
+The ship was anchored about two miles to the westward of Marsa Sousah,
+directly opposite our new road over the Augubah, in nearly the same
+position as the _Assurance_ had taken up for the embarkation of the
+statues in June. As communication with the shore was very liable to be
+interrupted by the heavy surf on the beach, Captain Ewart caused a depôt
+of provisions and fresh water to be established on land under the
+protection of a guard. From this depôt, which was replenished from time
+to time as the state of the weather permitted, the working party could
+at all times draw its supplies, and the cases of sculpture brought down
+from Cyrene could be safely left in charge of the guard, until a
+favourable opportunity occurred for taking them on board. This
+arrangement was the more necessary as we knew that the transport of the
+objects too heavy to be carried by camels would require three if not
+four trips of the waggons. Moreover, at so late a season of the year, a
+continuance of fine weather could not be reckoned upon, and the ship
+herself might not improbably be obliged by an equinoctial gale to put
+out to sea.
+
+Every precaution being thus taken to insure the success of the
+operations, the working party started from the depôt with the waggons on
+the morning of the 28th. Our new road proved quite practicable, and the
+party reached the summit of the Augubah and encamped there the same
+night. They arrived at Cyrene the following day, by which time the
+carpenters had a sufficient number of statues packed to load all the
+waggons. The 30th was occupied in securing the cases on the waggons, and
+on the 1st of October the party started for the shore. The descent of
+the Augubah was accomplished without accident, and the cases were safely
+deposited at the depôt on the evening of the 2nd. Two other trips were
+afterwards made with equal success, although not without serious
+apprehension on our part of a violent interruption by a tribe of hostile
+Bedouins.
+
+Ever since the arrival of the marines and carpenters at Cyrene, scores
+of “ugly-looking” Arabs kept prowling about our tomb with the evident
+design of picking a quarrel with us. Occasion for doing so was likely to
+occur at any moment, and especially when we absolutely refused to comply
+with some extravagant demands on the part of the camel-drivers. An open
+quarrel, however, was fortunately avoided until the first arrival of the
+large waggon party.
+
+The sailors, who were then encamped on the hill opposite our tomb, were
+in the habit of washing and bathing at the Fountain of Apollo, a
+practice at which the Arabs became greatly enraged. One evening, a
+little before sunset, as we were sitting down to dinner, we suddenly
+heard a few shots fired, and immediately afterwards, the loud screeching
+by which the Arabs were wont to call each other to an armed gathering.
+Numbers soon answered to the cry, and came pouring into the Wady from
+all directions. On inquiring into the cause of the disturbance, we
+learned that some sailors and marines had been bathing as usual at the
+fountain, when a number of Arabs, annoyed at what they thought their
+indecency, began pelting them with stones. A marine had thereupon loaded
+his rifle with blank cartridge, and fired in the direction of the Arabs,
+thinking thereby to frighten them away. His foolish act had, as might
+have been expected, a totally different result. In less than an hour,
+the Wady in front of our tomb was swarming with armed men. As we had in
+this instance been the aggressors, we at once sent Amor for the sheikhs
+of the collected force, and explained to them that we quite disclaimed
+the act of the marine, whose rashness, however, was somewhat excused by
+the previous conduct of the Arabs. The sheikhs, who seemed peaceably
+disposed, replied that the whole disturbance had been caused by our men
+occupying the fountain all day, and preventing the Arab women from
+coming to fill their waterskins. As there was some truth in this, we
+promised that in future the men should be allowed to use the fountain
+only at particular times; and we requested the sheikhs to come to us, if
+at any time they had cause of complaint, and not to speak to our men,
+who knew nothing of their language. The Arabs, only partly pacified by
+our assurances, remained where they were all night, and spent great part
+of the following morning in firing at marks close to our tomb, for the
+purpose of making an imposing show of their power to treat us as they
+pleased.
+
+This disturbance was hardly settled when a certain Sheikh Said ’M Rubbut
+made his appearance at the head of his tribe, and demanded a large sum
+of money, under the pretence of harbour dues, or something of the sort.
+On our refusing to pay it, he went off in great wrath, vowing vengeance
+on our whole party. The following day, he returned with a similar
+demand, but this time for the much smaller sum of 200 piastres (18_s._).
+On our again refusing to acknowledge his right to any sum, however
+small, he lowered his tone considerably, and said that, having no wish
+to quarrel with us, he would forego his claim, but begged two or three
+bullock-skins which were of little or no value to us. To a request in
+this form we willingly acceded, as we were anxious at all hazards to
+keep the peace until the marbles were safely taken to the beach. By this
+time the waggons were on their way to the depôt on the shore, after
+their second trip to Cyrene.
+
+The day after the departure of the waggon party, Sheikh Said again paid
+a visit to our tomb, and told me that he was not satisfied with the
+skins, and that he would not allow the waggons to pass, unless I paid
+him a large _bakshish_ besides. Seeing that his object was simply to
+levy “black mail,” and that yielding in any way to his demands would
+only encourage him to make further exactions, I refused to give him
+anything, and ordered him to leave the tomb. With the threat that none
+of us should leave the country alive, he went away, and encamped in the
+lower plateau, near a steep ravine which the waggons had to cross. He
+there barricaded the road with trunks and branches of trees, and for two
+days prevented any communication between Cyrene and the working party or
+the ship.[5] Some of our camels on their way from the depôt, laden with
+planks, were seized and detained. Our retreat from Cyrene was
+effectually cut off, and we were altogether in rather a helpless state.
+
+In this dilemma, I thought of the sheikhs of the Haasa, whom we had
+befriended after the attack of the Castle of Ghegheb, and who had then
+expressed their desire to repay us in any way in their power. I
+accordingly sent for Husseim and Hadji Hassan, the two head sheikhs of
+the tribe, and after reminding them of our interference with the Pacha
+on their behalf, told them that they could never have a better
+opportunity of proving the sincerity of their gratitude than now, by
+ridding us of the presence of Sheikh Said and his followers. I also
+assured them, that as we were living in the territory of the Haasa, of
+which Sheikh Said’s tribe was a subdivision, they themselves would be
+held responsible by the Consul for our safety. They at once promised to
+request Sheikh Said to depart peaceably, and if he refused to do so, to
+drive him away by force. With some of their subordinate sheikhs, they
+immediately went to carry their promise into effect, and returned after
+two or three hours with the intelligence that Sheikh Said had gone when
+they ordered him, and that the road was therefore quite clear.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 58.—ENCAMPMENT OF THE PARTY FROM H.M.S. “MELPOMENE”
+NEAR THE HEAD OF THE AUGUBAH.]
+
+Although he had thus apparently obeyed the order of the sheikhs, he had
+by no means given up the game. Foiled at Cyrene, he merely shifted his
+ground, and lay in wait for the waggon party in a wood at the top of the
+Augubah, hoping, no doubt, to extract something from them by his
+threats. The waggons soon afterwards came up from the shore, and halted
+for the night. The tents were no sooner pitched than Sheikh Said and
+some of his followers entered the camp, and threatened Porcher and the
+whole party with utter destruction if he did not agree to give him a
+bakshish. Porcher had not yet heard of our two days’ siege at Cyrene,
+but gave him the same answer I had done; viz., a point blank refusal.
+The sheikh thereupon left the camp, and collecting all the men of his
+tribe, placed them in a large open space at the foot of the Cyrene
+range, while he himself came up to our tomb to offer me, as he said, a
+last chance. I told him I had already given him an answer, and that if
+he wanted to attack us we were quite ready to receive him. On his
+departure, I again called upon the head sheikhs for assistance, and they
+again obliged him to move off; so that the waggon party reached Cyrene
+for the third time without an actual encounter.
+
+The friendly interference of the principal sheikhs of the Haasa had thus
+been of great service to us hitherto, by preventing a collision which
+must have led to very serious consequences. Had it come to blows or
+bloodshed, even the Arabs who were most friendly to us would have been
+compelled to take side with their brethren against the Christians. With
+thirteen miles of bad road and close cover between Cyrene and the coast,
+we must have suffered great loss in fighting our way to the shore
+against overwhelming numbers. Such a result had fortunately been
+avoided; but we now began to have doubts of the good faith of the
+friendly sheikhs, and to suspect that, after all, they might be in
+secret league with our enemies. We were led to fear that this was the
+case by the pertinacity and confidence shown by Sheikh Said, and by the
+fact that Hussein and Hadji Hassan acted in concert with our old foe
+Sidi Mustapha, who was loud in his denunciation of Sheikh Said’s acts.
+We naturally thought that if the heads of the Haasa and the chief of the
+Zauyah were sincere in their professions of friendship, Sheikh Said
+would not presume to threaten and annoy us.
+
+Affairs being in this state, we thought it advisable to apply to the
+Mudir of Ghegheb for protection, although we had little hope of his
+rendering us any really efficient assistance. Our object was rather to
+put ourselves in the right, by being able to say that we had appealed to
+the only representative of the Government in the country. I was still
+too weak to ride as far as Ghegheb, or I should have gone to see the
+Mudir before now; but Porcher went immediately after his arrival at
+Cyrene with the waggons. The Mudir himself, he found, was absent, and
+the Kolaghassi or Major who was acting in his place said that all he
+could do was to send two Koralié with letters to Sidi Mustapha and the
+sheikhs Hussein and Hadji Hassan.
+
+Finding that no assistance was to be expected from the Mudir, and that
+we must rely solely on our own resources for protection, we were anxious
+to get everything on board as soon as possible, especially as every
+day’s delay seemed only to add to the difficulties of our position. We
+therefore determined to make the third trip of the waggons the final
+one, although, by doing so, we were obliged to leave behind us the large
+statue of Archippe and some of the inscriptions. Future visitors to the
+ruins of Cyrene will probably find the statue where we left it, at the
+western end of our upper range of tombs, and the inscriptions in a
+subterranean chamber almost immediately beneath the same spot.[6]
+
+The 10th and 11th were spent in loading the waggons, packing up our
+personal effects, and collecting the necessary number of camels. We made
+our preparations as quietly and secretly as possible, in the hope of
+giving the slip to Sheikh Said and his friends, by reaching the shore
+before he should hear of our departure from Cyrene. Meantime, the road
+to the coast was clear, and everything promised a peaceful termination
+to our long sojourn among the Bedouins. On the night of the 11th,
+however, one of our Arab servants brought us word that Sheikh Said,
+having heard of our intended movement, was again in position on the road
+with a larger force than ever, determined to fight us if we did not
+satisfy his demands.
+
+Early next morning, the marines were paraded under arms, and told off in
+two parties to act as advanced and rear guards to the main body with the
+waggons and camels. It was some time, however, before everything was
+ready for a start. Crowds of Arabs collected round our tomb, clamouring
+and struggling with each other for the empty bottles and other articles
+which we were to leave behind. At last the camels were loaded, and we
+were on the point of beginning our march, when, somewhat to our
+astonishment, we saw a number of Arabs coming up the Wady, among whom we
+recognized Sheikh Said and our former friends Sheikhs Hussein and Hadji
+Hassan. It seemed as if our suspicions of these Haasa sheikhs were,
+after all, but too well founded, and that they were now openly
+associated with our enemy, in order to share with him the expected
+booty.
+
+[Illustration: Pl. 59.
+
+CENTRAL WADY AND SLOPE OF THE EASTERN HILL OF CYRENE
+
+E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.
+
+London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the
+Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]
+
+Such, however, was not the case. Leaving the other Arabs who were with
+them, the two sheikhs came up to our tomb and told us that, having
+accidentally heard that Sheikh Said was again in arms against us, they
+had hurried off during the night to the position taken up by him in the
+lower plateau, and, by threatening himself and all his followers with
+instant death, had compelled him to come to make his submission to us.
+As no blood had actually been shed, they had given him their word that
+we should not injure him. On being assured that we would respect the
+safe-conduct they had given, they brought up their prisoner, who
+forthwith, in the most abject terms, expressed sorrow for his past
+offences, and begged to be forgiven. Thus, fortunately, ended an affair
+which, but for the gratitude of the powerful tribe we had formerly
+befriended, would, in all probability, have resulted in a great loss of
+life.
+
+To insure us from further molestation, Sheikhs Hussein and Hadji Hassan
+accompanied us to the beach, where we induced them with some difficulty
+to intrust themselves to leave _terra firma_, and pay a visit to the
+ship. When they came on board, Captain Ewart made them a liberal and
+most welcome present of powder, and at their own earnest request I gave
+each of them a certificate of good conduct addressed to the English
+vice-consuls at Benghazi and Derna.
+
+The waggon party reached the head of the Augubah the same night, and on
+the following morning descended to the plain, where they were met by the
+ship’s band, who escorted them to the beach. Before evening everything
+was safely embarked.
+
+The narrative of the excavations would be incomplete without mentioning
+a small dressed statue of a girl found near the central theatre of
+Cyrene, by some of the sailors, who spent the two days before our
+departure in digging for “images” on their own account. For want of a
+more appropriate name, her discoverers gave her that of the ship:
+“Melpomene.”
+
+While getting the last of the cases on board, on the afternoon of the
+13th, we observed a steamer coming along the shore from the westward,
+which was soon made out to be H.M.S. _Medina_, commanded by Captain
+Spratt, C.B., who was then engaged in testing and correcting the charts
+of the coast between Tripoli and Alexandria. He had previously written
+to inform us of his intended visit to Cyrene; but his letter did not
+reach us until after the arrival of the _Medina_ herself. Unfortunately
+it was now too late to think of going, as Sheikh Said and his followers
+were doubtless eager to have revenge for their late humiliation.
+Immediately before coming to Marsa Sousah, the _Medina_ had anchored for
+a few hours at Sousah Hamema, for the purpose of taking some
+observations on shore with the artificial horizon. The party that landed
+for this purpose, having crossed by chance the limits of the Zauyah,
+were indignantly ordered off by the saintly Achwani, who would not have
+hesitated to enforce obedience by firing on the intruders.
+
+The last duty we had to perform before our departure was the
+distribution of bakshish among our friends and attendants. Of these,
+Amor Bon Abdi Seyat, who had stood by us well during the whole of our
+residence in the country, had the greatest claim on our gratitude.
+Honesty, in our sense of the word, was a quality of which, in common
+with his countrymen, he could form no conception, and to which he,
+consequently, had no pretension. But he refrained from actual theft, and
+had discernment enough to see that in honesty, that is, in _limited_
+peculation, lay his best policy; inasmuch as the periodical bakshish
+which he received varied inversely as the amount he gained by illicit
+means. In every respect he was probably the best man we could have got
+in the country. Naturally quick-witted, active, and courageous, he had
+acquired considerable influence over the men of his tribe, which, on
+more than one occasion, he exerted with success in our behalf. As a
+farewell gift, we gave him our two horses and a large supply of powder.
+
+It was not without regret that we finally left our temporary home at
+Cyrene. The beauty of the scenery and the interesting nature of our
+occupations had combined to render our residence in the country a most
+agreeable one. We had occasionally suffered considerable annoyance and
+anxiety; but, on the whole, our relations with the Arabs had been much
+more satisfactory than might have been anticipated. Several
+considerations, however, now induced us to return to Malta in the
+_Melpomene_. As a ship could not approach the coast with safety during
+winter, we should have had to remain at Cyrene at least six or seven
+months, before another vessel could be sent to visit us; and this period
+we were afraid we should not be able to employ to much advantage in the
+way of excavation. Immediately after the first rains, the Arabs begin to
+sow their crops, which, at Cyrene, cover nearly the whole site of the
+ancient city. During the previous winter, we had examined nearly every
+promising spot that was left unoccupied. Very little digging, therefore,
+could be done until the ground was again clear after the harvest in May,
+as the Arabs would on no account allow their crops to be interfered
+with. We should, consequently, have been obliged to remain in the
+country a whole year, for the chance of finding more sculptures during
+the five or six months of the following summer. There was no doubt that
+many statues were still to be found; but as we had already excavated all
+the prominent sites in the city, in many of which we discovered nothing,
+further operations must have been carried on almost at random. For these
+and other reasons, we made up our minds to leave Cyrene, and return to
+Malta in the _Melpomene_.
+
+At daylight on the morning of the 14th we weighed anchor, and sailed for
+Malta. It was well that we had got all the cases of sculpture on board
+the day before; for we had hardly left the coast when a breeze sprang up
+and rapidly freshened to a gale, which would have made it quite
+impossible to communicate with the shore, and would have obliged the
+ship herself to put to sea for safety. After a stormy passage of three
+days, we reached Malta on the 17th, just in time to correct a report
+sent from Benghazi by the new submarine telegraph, to the effect that,
+in an attack made upon us by the Arabs of Cyrene, one of us had been
+killed and the other wounded.
+
+At Malta the sculptures were transferred to H.M.S. _Supply_, Master
+Commander Balliston, in which vessel they were soon afterwards safely
+conveyed to England.
+
+
+
+
+                          CONCLUSION.
+
+
+BEFORE taking leave of the subject of the Cyrenaica, it will not be out
+of place to offer a few remarks upon the future prospects of this
+beautiful country.
+
+It may, I think, be safely premised that, so long as it remains in the
+hands of its present rulers and occupants, no great change in its
+condition is likely to take place, either for the better or the worse.
+From what has been already stated in a former chapter, it will be seen
+that the present state of the country, and the character and peculiar
+habits of its inhabitants are, to a great extent, mutually dependent on
+each other. That is to say, the physical condition of the country, owing
+to the absence of rivers or any large artificial reservoirs for water,
+is not adapted to the requirements of a settled sedentary population,
+and therefore tends to confirm the Bedouins in their wandering, and
+consequently wild and lawless, habits; while, on the other hand, it is
+hardly to be expected that a race of people like the Arabs would exert
+themselves in achieving public works for the purpose of making the
+country suited for a manner of life which they have been taught from
+infancy to hate and despise. As an illustration of this, I may mention
+that the road which we made from Cyrene to Marsa Sousah, instead of
+being regarded as a benefit to that part of the country, was looked upon
+with considerable suspicion as a means of facilitating the movements of
+troops sent by the Government.
+
+Nor is this indisposition on the part of the inhabitants likely to be
+compensated for by the energy of a government which exists in little
+more than the name. Justice is not administered, crime is not punished,
+and life and property are wholly unprotected. The collection of tribute
+is, in fact, the only function of government performed by the
+representatives of the Sultan.
+
+The expediency of forming a colony of Maltese in the Cyrenaica has, we
+believe, been sometimes contemplated; but it is evident that, in such a
+state of affairs, successful colonization by Europeans would be
+impossible. In the first place, a general system of irrigation by means
+of reservoirs and cisterns for the collection of the rains in winter,
+would have to be created; roads and harbours would also be required to
+make the resources of the country available for the purposes of
+commerce; works which could only be carried out under the protection of
+a powerful government. There is little hope of Turkey ever acquiring the
+enlightened energy necessary for such a task, and the example of Algeria
+as a French _colony_ is probably not such as to induce any other
+European nation to attempt it. It is a remarkable fact that a region
+once so prosperous, and even now blessed with a salubrious climate, a
+fertile soil, and an excellent geographical position, should have
+remained for centuries on the very borders of Europe, not only
+undeveloped, but almost unknown. And from the combination of causes
+which we have indicated, it seems not improbable that it may remain in
+the same condition for many years to come.
+
+
+
+
+                              APPENDICES.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                          I.—ON THE SILPHIUM.
+
+IN the foregoing chapters reference has occasionally been made to the
+Silphium of Cyrene, the identification of which has given rise to
+considerable discussion among modern travellers and botanists.
+
+Della Cella, Beechey, and Pacho agree in the opinion that the Silphium
+of the Greeks is identical with a plant growing in abundance at the
+present day in the neighbourhood of Cyrene, partly from the description
+of it given by Pliny, and the general resemblance of the drawing on the
+coins of Cyrene.
+
+[Illustration: PLATE 60.—THAPSIA GARGANICA.]
+
+Dr. Schroff has lately published an article on the subject, which seems
+to be the most important hitherto written, and having gone minutely into
+the accounts given by Hippocrates and Dioscorides of the properties of
+the ancient Silphium, and the experiments made from the plant now
+growing there, it is quite evident that they are not the same.
+
+From the following account it will be seen that the present plant, of
+which a drawing is shown in Plate 60, is proved to be the _Thapsia
+Garganica_, and agrees with the plant well known to the ancients under
+the name of _Thapsia_, but has none of the properties of the true
+Silphium.
+
+It is called _Drias_ by the Arabs, and abounds at Cyrene and the
+immediate vicinity, disappearing altogether about thirty miles to the
+westward of it; and we observed it occasionally as far as Derna in the
+opposite direction. This plant appears above the ground in the month of
+October, when the autumnal rains commence, and is in flower in May, when
+it attains the height of 4 feet on the average, occasionally measuring
+4¾ feet, and dying down to the ground again in July and August.
+
+The following description of the plant has been kindly translated by
+Professor Oliver from the German article of Dr. Schroff.
+
+
+The question as to the identity or otherwise of _Thapsia Garganica_, now
+so abundant about the site of the ancient Cyrene, as well as elsewhere
+on Mediterranean shores, with the _Silphium_ of the Greeks, has been
+recently very carefully investigated by Dr. C. Schroff.
+
+The results of his inquiry appeared in the “Zeitschrift der K. K.
+Gesellschaft der Aerzte” of Vienna, Part I., 1862.[7] They are briefly
+these: he finds that the properties, &c., of _Thapsia Garganica_ do not
+accord with those attributed by classical writers to their _Silphium_;
+on the other hand, they do accord with the properties ascribed by
+Theophrastus, Dioscorides, and others to a plant called by them
+_Thapsia_. Dr. Schroff therefore rejects the prevalent notion that the
+ancient _Silphium_ of Cyrene is represented by _Thapsia Garganica_, now
+growing wild on its site, and confidently identifies the latter with the
+_Thapsia_ of the Greeks and Romans.[8] He does not attempt to indicate
+the present representative of the true _Silphium_.
+
+With regard to the properties of _Thapsia Garganica_, it is stated by
+Von Heinzmann (by whom specimens of the drug—the rind of the root—now in
+use at Tripoli, obtained from _T. Garganica_, were sent to Europe) that
+the fruit is very poisonous to camels, a single fruit (so-called seed)
+sufficing to kill a large and powerful camel. The Arabs in travelling
+through districts where the _Thapsia_ abounds, at the time when the
+fruit is ripe, are accustomed to muzzle their camels to prevent their
+feeding upon the plant. The green herbage of the _Thapsia_, however, is
+eaten by them without ill effect.
+
+A very high value is ascribed to the rind of the root as an application
+to foul wounds or ulcers, whether of man or beast. A portion of the rind
+is laid upon or into the sore and it heals forthwith. M. Heinzmann
+experimented with the tincture upon bad wounds of different kinds with
+“die wunderbarsten Resultate.” When the tincture is applied to the sound
+skin, it occasions almost unendurable itching, and gives rise at length
+to blisters or pustules, without causing much inflammation. Neither
+itching nor burning is felt when the drug is applied to a wound. Six to
+eight grains of the powdered rind of the root taken internally are
+stated to occasion the following symptoms: giddiness, buzzing in the
+ears, confusion of ideas, great feeling of weakness, with tendency to
+vomit, and actual vomiting and purging. The most striking symptom,
+however, is a long-continued, heavy perspiration. Experiments repeated
+in Europe lead to the _Thapsia Garganica_ being classed as a drastic
+cathartic, and, to a certain extent, confirm its usefulness as an
+external application.
+
+The properties of the plant _Thapsia_, described by Theophrastus,
+Dioscorides, and Pliny, agree with those just cited as characteristic of
+_Thapsia Garganica_. Dr. Schroff says a comparison of the description
+given by the above writers of their _Thapsia_ with the character, both
+as to structure and properties, of _T. Garganica_, leaves no doubt as to
+their identity.
+
+With regard to the ancient _Silphium_. Our most precise information
+respecting it is derived from the Cyrenian coins and the writings of
+Theophrastus and Dioscorides. It is referred to by Pliny (with admixture
+of error), as well as by many of the more ancient classical writers. The
+fresh root, prepared with vinegar, was eaten, and the stem was highly
+prized as a delicacy.—(See _Knights_ of Aristophanes.) It was also used
+as a spice and condiment. Its application in medicine (the inspissated
+juice) is fully detailed by Dioscorides. It was in great repute as an
+antidote to poisons and the bite of venomous reptiles, scorpions, mad
+dogs, &c.
+
+The older Cyrenian coins bear a representation (according to Dr.
+Schroff) of the fruit of the _Silphium_. It is represented as
+_obcordate_, with a narrow wing. This does not agree at all with the
+form of the fruit of _T. Garganica_, nor can the account given of the
+use of the _Silphium_ as a table delicacy and condiment be reconciled
+with the active properties of that species.
+
+In conclusion Dr. Schroff says: “If, then, our researches establish
+beyond all doubt that the plant now known as _Thapsia Garganica_, L.,
+and _Thapsia Silphium_, Viv., is not, as so many travellers and
+botanists have asserted, the original Cyrenaic _Silphium_, on the other
+hand, the result of this inquiry is not purely negative in reference to
+the Flora of the ancients, for we have proved that the plant in question
+may be certainly identified with another plant used in ancient medicine,
+the _Thapsia_ of the Greeks and Romans.”
+
+
+This extract clearly establishes the fact that the _Drias_ of the Arabs
+is the _Thapsia Garganica_. At the time the Romans took possession of
+the country, the Silphium seems to have been grown in large quantities,
+and was considered an excellent medicine, and sold for its weight in
+silver. The medicinal properties of the gum are described as having the
+smell of myrrh, but more mild and agreeable.
+
+It was said by Pliny to have grown not far from the Gardens of the
+Hesperides and the Great Syrtis; but, in his time, it had so entirely
+disappeared that a single plant was sent as a rare and valuable gift to
+the Emperor Nero. This scarcity had been caused by the barbaric races
+that overran the country, as well as by the Cyrenians themselves, who
+aided in its extirpation in order to free themselves of the enormous tax
+which the Romans had laid upon it.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+                                No. II.
+
+             DESCRIPTION OF THE SCULPTURES FOUND AT CYRENE.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                           PLATE 61.—BACCHUS.
+
+  _Height 5 feet 9 inches; found in a temple of Bacchus. (See ante, p.
+                                 40.)_
+
+The god is represented under his youthful type, holding a bunch of
+grapes in his left hand, and with his head encircled with a vine-wreath
+and diadem. The right arm, now wanting, appears to have hung down by his
+side, as a little below the hip is a projection for the attachment of
+the hand. A mantle passes round the lower half of his body and over his
+left arm and shoulder. This statue is remarkable for the admirable
+preservation of the face. The form has a certain effeminate beauty,
+though the style is somewhat mannered and meretricious. The drapery is
+carelessly executed, especially at the back. When it was first found,
+red colour was very visible in the eyes and wreath round the head.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                      PLATE 62.—APOLLO CITHARŒDUS.
+
+          _Height, inclusive of the plinth, 7 feet 6 inches._
+
+This statue was found, as has been already stated (_ante_, p. 41), in
+the Temple of Apollo, and originally stood on a lofty base within the
+cella. The god is represented in a musing attitude, as if pausing
+between the strains of his music. His left hand, now broken off, must
+have played over the strings of his lyre; his right arm has been raised;
+the right hand, resting on the crown of his head, has held the
+_plectrum_, with which he is about to strike the lyre. On the hair may
+be seen a projection where this hand has been attached. The lyre rests
+on the trunk of a tree, round which a serpent is twined. A bow and
+quiver hang from the tree. The head of the serpent is upturned, as if he
+were listening to the music of the god. Red colour may be seen on the
+tree and quiver.
+
+This statue is probably a copy from some celebrated original, as two
+other nearly similar figures exist, one in the Capitoline Museum at
+Rome, the other in the Museo Borbonico at Naples. (_See_ Clarac, _Musée
+de Sculpture_, iii. pl. 479, fig. 921B; and _ibid._, pl. 489, fig. 954.)
+
+The countenance has a suave and beautiful expression, and the general
+attitude is very harmoniously composed. The body is finely modelled, but
+the drapery very inferior to the nude part; the lower limbs seem rather
+short and clumsy, but perhaps, if this statue were placed on a higher
+base, this want of proportion would be less apparent. This statue when
+found was broken into 123 pieces, all of which have been rejoined since
+its arrival at the British Museum.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                   PLATE 63.—THE EMPEROR HADRIAN (?).
+
+                       _Height 6 feet 7 inches._
+
+This Plate represents a male personage clad in a mantle thrown over his
+left shoulder, under which the folds of a _chiton_ are seen on the
+breast; on his feet are sandals; the right arm is crossed over the
+breast under the mantle, the left hand holds a sprig of laurel; the head
+is bound with a pine wreath, and has been inserted into a socket at the
+base of the neck. This head is evidently a portrait, and appears to be
+intended for the Emperor Hadrian, though the likeness is not a very
+strong one. As, however, the statue was found in the Temple of Apollo,
+close to a base inscribed with a dedication to Hadrian (see _ante_, p.
+42), it may be presumed that it represents that emperor. It is possible
+that the head may have been substituted for that which originally
+belonged to this statue, as the general character of the drapery would
+be rather suitable to a poet or a philosopher than to a Roman emperor.
+Both hands have been joined on at the wrist, and were found detached.
+The left hand seems not to be made of the same marble as the rest of the
+statue, and it is very doubtful whether it belongs to the figure.
+
+The pine-wreath on the head would indicate a victory either in the Great
+Isthmia, or in some smaller festival bearing the same name. There does
+not, however, seem to be evidence to show the connection of the Emperor
+Hadrian with such contests.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                    PLATE 64.—HEAD OF PALLAS ATHENE.
+
+                       _Height 1 foot 2 inches._
+
+This head was found near the middle of the _Cella_ in the Temple of
+Apollo, near the preceding statue, supposed to represent the Emperor
+Hadrian.—(See _ante_, p. 42.) It is in unusually fine preservation, and
+from the purity and whiteness of the marble is an attractive object to
+the uncritical eye. It is, however, rather coarse and heavy in
+execution, and belongs, therefore, probably, to the Roman period.
+
+The helmet, which is of the kind called Corinthian, has had the point of
+the nasal broken off. In other respects this head is uninjured.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                  UNKNOWN MALE HEAD WITH INLAID EYES.
+
+                              _Life Size._
+
+On Plate 64 is also represented a male head, which is especially
+interesting, as an example of polychrome or inlaid sculpture. The crown
+of the head is cut away, so as to form a joint, and it is evident that a
+helmet or other head-dress has been fitted on to it, doubtless, of a
+different coloured marble. The eyes are inserted in hollow sockets. The
+whites of the eyes, formed of marble, still remain in these sockets. The
+pupils, which have, probably, been made of coloured vitreous pastes,
+have fallen out. All round the marble eyes the edge of a thin bronze
+plate intervenes between the eye and the upper and lower eyelids; this
+edge has probably been serrated so as to indicate by its projection the
+upper and lower eyelashes, as is the case with the bronze head, Plate
+66.
+
+This head is greatly disfigured by the mutilation of the nose, and by
+the want of the eyes and the part above the forehead. What remains is,
+however, finely modelled, and is, probably, the work of a Greek artist
+of a good period.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+        PLATE 65.—HEAD OF CNÆUS CORNELIUS LENTULUS MARCELLINUS,
+                          PROPRÆTOR OF CYRENE.
+
+                              _Life Size._
+
+This head was found in the Temple of Apollo, in the western half of the
+_Cella_. With it was found a marble base, on which was graven the
+inscription No. 1, recording the dedication of a statue, by the people
+of Cyrene, to Cnæus Lentulus Marcellinus, styled here Proprætor, Patron,
+and Saviour of Cyrene. (See _ante_, p. 42.)
+
+With this base was found a square pedestal, 10 inches broad and 5 feet
+high, which fitted into a square socket in the base, and which had at
+the top a deep socket into which the head fitted. This pedestal, which
+establishes the connection between the base and the head, was
+unfortunately left behind, on the final embarkation of the marbles, on
+account of the insufficient means of transport at the command of the
+expedition. It has been already noticed that the back of this head is
+cut flat, as if to enable it to be placed like a pilaster.
+
+As a specimen of provincial sculpture in the Roman period, this head is
+very well worthy of study. It seems singular that a work of art
+possessing so much merit should have been united to its pedestal in so
+rude and unsightly a manner. It is, however, possible that the head
+originally belonged to a statue, and that, after this statue was broken
+by an earthquake or other accident, the head was remounted in this
+clumsy fashion.
+
+The Cnæus Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus whose portrait we have here was
+the son of P. Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus, of the illustrious family
+of Marcelli, and a man of some note in the latter years of the Republic.
+While yet a young man he supported the cause of the Sicilians against
+Verres, B.C. 70. He held the office of Prætor, B.C. 59, and presided
+over the trial of C. Antonius, the colleague of Cicero. The following
+year he went to Syria, and administered that province for two years. He
+was Consul B.C. 56, and took a prominent part in resisting the factious
+violence of Clodius; and Cicero, whose cause he greatly favoured,
+declared him to be one of the best Consuls he had ever known. We hear
+very little of him after the expiration of his Consulship, and the
+period of his death is wholly unknown.
+
+Ancient writers are not agreed as to the precise date when Cyrene was
+first made a Roman province. The conflicting authorities are examined by
+Thrige (Res Cyren. pp. 274-277), who adopts for this event the date B.C.
+75. Borghesi, who reconsiders the question very fully in his Œuvres
+Complètes, Paris, 1864, II. pp. 396-407, prefers the later date, B.C.
+65, in which he is followed by Falbe and Lindberg (Numismatique de
+l’Ancienne Afrique, I. p. 7). According to these two latter authorities,
+Lollius, whose name appears on the coins of Cyrene, was its first
+Proprætor; but it is not unlikely that he was preceded by Cn. Lentulus
+Marcellinus, whether we take the earlier or the later of the above-
+mentioned dates for the establishment of the Roman province there. He
+may be the same as a Cnæus Lentulus whose name appears on a Roman family
+coin (Cohen, Description Générale, p. 104, No. 25) as Quæstor, and who
+was probably Quæstor in Spain with Metellus, about B.C. 79-75.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                     PLATE 66.—BRONZE ICONIC HEAD.
+
+                              _Life Size._
+
+This head is in very fine condition, and a most interesting example of
+ancient portraiture in bronze.
+
+The person whom it represents has not yet been identified; the type of
+the features seems rather African than Greek or Roman, and it is
+possible, therefore, that this head may represent some king of Numidia
+or Mauritania. The eyes have been inlaid in vitreous pastes, portions of
+which still remain in the sockets. The eyelashes are indicated by
+notched lines. The under lip is formed of a separate piece of bronze,
+the junction of which may be traced along the edge of the lip.
+
+It is probable that the lips were covered with a thin plate of silver or
+some artificial substance which served to represent their difference of
+colour. The hair and beard are finished with great care and refinement
+of treatment. Throughout there is a scrupulous adherence to nature, and
+this head may be considered as an interesting example of that realistic
+school of portraiture which seems to have originated in the time of
+Lysippus.
+
+It was found in the Temple of Apollo, on the original floor of the
+eastern part of the _cella_, 11 feet beneath a mosaic pavement
+superadded in Roman times. Near it were some small fragments of bronze
+horses, very much injured, as if by fire, some bits of gold leaf, and
+several terra-cotta lamps. (See _ante_, pp. 42, 43.)
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                          PLATE 67.—APHRODITE.
+
+                       _Height 2 feet 4 inches._
+
+This statuette is broken off below the knees. The figure is draped in a
+tunic, reaching probably to the feet, and girt at the waist; a _peplos_
+passes round the right hip. The arms are wanting. The head is bound with
+a diadem.
+
+This figure has been so mutilated that it is difficult to judge of it as
+a composition. The marble is of an exquisite quality, and is wrought
+with a refined skill, which shows that this statuette belongs to the
+best period of Greek art. The countenance is one of great beauty. The
+long eyes and general type of the features are characteristic of
+Aphrodite.
+
+Though Praxiteles is said to have first made nude statues of this
+goddess, draped representations of her are comparatively rare, except
+those executed in the archaic period.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                                CYRENE.
+
+                       _Height 1 foot 3 inches._
+
+On this Plate is also represented a female torso, attired in a tunic
+reaching only to the knees. The head, arms, and legs of this figure are
+wanting. Above the girdle the fashion of the tunic is peculiar. The
+sides are left open, so as to expose the breasts, between which the
+folds are gathered together in a broad band. On this band and on the
+folds near it traces of red colour may yet be seen.
+
+The composition of the drapery in this statuette is remarkable for
+severe and simple beauty. It is probably executed by a Greek sculptor of
+the best period. The type and costume are those of a young girl trained
+to the chase or athletic exercises. These characteristics make it
+probable that in this statuette we have the nymph Cyrene herself, of
+whom there are two other representations in this collection of
+sculptures. (See Pl. 76, and No. 6, _post._) Both these statuettes were
+found in a large temple near the Stadium, with some other fragments of
+sculpture of a very fine character. (See _ante_, p. 75.)
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                    PLATE 68.—ICONIC FEMALE FIGURE.
+
+                       _Height 6 feet 6½ inches._
+
+This figure is clad in a tunic reaching to the feet, over which is an
+ample mantle or _peplos_ wound round the body. Her head is bound with a
+diadem, and covered at the back with a veil. From the character of the
+features, it may be inferred that this statue is a portrait rather than
+the representation of any ideal personage. If such is the case, it is
+probably the portrait of some queen, perhaps of the family of the
+Egyptian Ptolemies, as several of the queens of this dynasty are
+represented on their coins wearing the diadem and veil. Though this
+figure has rather an imposing effect at a distance, near inspection
+shows that it is very coarsely executed. The proportions are very
+clumsy. It was found in some ruins on the north side of the Temple of
+Apollo.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+             PLATE 69.—BUST OF THE EMPEROR ANTONINUS PIUS.
+
+                       _Height 2 feet 4½ inches._
+
+This bust is well sculptured and in very fine condition. The features
+are intact. The Emperor is represented clad in the _paludamentum_, or
+military cloak, which is fastened by a circular _fibula_ on the right
+shoulder over a tunic and cuirass. This bust was found on the site of a
+building marked “Palace” on the Plan, but which, from the number of
+Imperial busts discovered in it, was probably an Augusteum. (See _ante_,
+p. 76.)
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+             PLATE 70.—BUST OF THE EMPEROR MARCUS AURELIUS.
+
+            _Height 2 feet 4¼ inches, inclusive of plinth._
+
+This bust is in very fine condition, having sustained no injury except
+the fracture of the neck. The Emperor wears on his shoulders the
+_paludamentum_, fastened on the right shoulder by a _fibula_. The hair
+is skilfully disposed in clustering masses, and the general treatment of
+the head is simple and dignified, though as a work of art this bust is
+inferior to the Antoninus already described. It was found in the
+building marked “Palace” on the Plan, which, as has been already
+remarked, was, probably, an Augusteum.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                      PLATE 71.—APHRODITE EUPLOIA.
+
+                       _Height 1 foot 9 inches._
+
+A small statuette representing Venus in the act of adjusting the sandal
+of her left foot. She leans forward standing on her right leg, and
+resting her left thigh against a pillar. The toes of her raised foot,
+now broken away, have been supported by a dolphin. Her left arm, which
+is also wanting, is drawn back, and probably rested on the pillar; as
+the head is broken away at the base of the neck, it is uncertain in
+which direction it turned. Drapery hangs from the column, against which
+a rudder is leaning. Many varieties and repetitions of this figure are
+extant, in marble and bronze, among which the following may be cited:—
+
+1. A small bronze figure in the British Museum. (Millingen, in the
+Transactions of the Royal Society of Literature, 2nd series, i. p. 62.)
+
+2. A small bronze figure found at Herculaneum. (Antichità di Ercol., vi.
+14; Müller, Denkmäler d.a. Kunst, ii. Taf. xxxvi., fig. 283.)
+
+3. A small bronze torso in the British Museum. (Clarac, Musée de
+Sculpture, i. pl. 628, fig. 1354.)
+
+4. A small bronze figure. (Galeotti, Mus. Odeschalc., ii. pl. 35.)
+
+5. A small marble torso in the British Museum. (Museum Marbles, x. pl.
+20, p. 43.)
+
+6. A similar figure occurs on the bronze coins of Aphrodisias during the
+Roman period. (Mionnet, Recueil, iii. p. 323, No. 109.)
+
+Several small torsos in marble, which represent the same subject, have
+been found in Crete, Rhodes, Cos, and Calymnos. It is evident, front the
+number of repetitions of this figure, that they are all derived from
+some celebrated original. The name of Aphrodite Euploia has been given
+to this figure because, in two instances, the statuette now under
+consideration and the bronze figure in the British Museum, published by
+Millingen (No. 1, _supra_), the goddess leans on a rudder. The veil held
+over her head in the latter bronze seems to represent the sail filled by
+a favourable wind. These nautical emblems would accord well with the
+epithet Euploia, “the giver of a favourable voyage,” which was given to
+Aphrodite. In this character she was an object of special worship at
+Cnidus. The number of small statuettes with this type which have been
+found in cities of the Archipelago suggests the notion that they may
+have been dedicated by seafaring men after a voyage.
+
+This statuette was found with several other statues of Venus in a small
+temple, marked on the Plan “Temple of Venus.” (See _ante_, p. 77.) The
+composition is very graceful, but the forms rather coarse and clumsy. It
+is, probably, of the Roman period.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                 PLATE 72.—GROUP OF APHRODITE AND EROS.
+
+                       _Height 3 feet 2½ inches._
+
+The hands and head of the Venus being wanting, the motive of the figure
+is uncertain, but it is probable that the goddess was represented
+engaged in her toilette: her drapery is gathered round her lower limbs;
+on her feet are sandals. The Cupid bestrides a dolphin, in which
+attitude he is frequently represented at the side of statues of Venus.
+In Clarac’s Musée de Sculpture are two groups of Aphrodite and Eros, in
+which the drapery is similarly disposed,—Pl. 607, fig. 1339, and Pl.
+615, fig. 1366. This group, though rather coarse in execution, is copied
+from a good original. It was found in the Temple of Venus.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+          PLATE 73.—UNKNOWN FEMALE FIGURE OF THE ROMAN PERIOD.
+
+                       _Height 5 feet 9½ inches._
+
+This figure is clad in a tunic reaching to the feet, and a mantle, the
+end of which she is casting over her left shoulder, and in the folds of
+which her left hand is partially muffled. Her hair is plaited and wound
+round her head, after a fashion prevalent in the time of the Empress
+Sabina, the period to which this figure may therefore be assigned with
+probability. It is evidently a portrait, but has not as yet been
+identified. The countenance is very expressive, and the whole figure,
+though not finely executed, is interesting from the simplicity of the
+conception and the impression it conveys of a faithful rendering from
+nature. The right forearm, which was a separate piece of marble, has
+been broken away. It was found in the Temple of Venus. (See _ante_, p.
+77.)
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                     PLATE 74.—ICONIC FEMALE BUST.
+
+                      _Height 1 foot 10½ inches._
+
+This bust is remarkable for the singular headdress, composed of plaits
+coiled round in a conical mass.
+
+This headdress seems a caricature of that which prevailed in the time of
+the Empress Faustina the Elder; and as the bust is evidently a portrait,
+it may represent some lady of the period of that Empress. The sculpture
+is very inferior to that of the busts of Antoninus and Aurelius already
+described. This bust, with another nearly identical, was found on the
+site of the supposed “Temple of Venus.” (See _ante_, p. 77.)
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                       PLATE 75.—HEAD OF PERSEUS.
+
+                           _Height 4 inches._
+
+This head has wings, which are characteristic either of Mercury or of
+Perseus. The countenance, however, has an intense expression, which
+seems more suitable to the hero than the god. This head is probably
+broken off from a statuette representing Perseus holding in his hand the
+head of the slain Medusa. A very similar head occurs among the reliefs
+which ornament the cuirass of a Roman emperor on the torso described
+_post_, No. 107, p. 104.
+
+The features are very forcibly modelled. This head is probably a work of
+the Macedonian period. It was found in the Temple of Venus. (See _ante_,
+p. 77.)
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                   PLATE 76.—CYRENE CROWNED BY LIBYA.
+
+         _Group in Relief, 3 feet 4 inches by 2 feet 3 inches._
+
+This relief represents the nymph Cyrene in the act of strangling a lion,
+while, to commemorate this triumph, a crown is held over her head by
+Libya. Below is the inscription engraved Pl. 82, No. 19, which may be
+thus translated:—
+
+“Here over the architrave, Carpos, making this dedication in token of
+great hospitality, has placed the lion-slaying Cyrene, whom Libya,
+having the glory of three continents, herself crowns.”
+
+In this group the nymph Cyrene is represented in attire very like that
+of Diana Venatrix. She wears a succinct _chiton_ reaching to the knees,
+over which is a mantle, and buskins; her hair is drawn back from her
+face.
+
+Libya wears a talaric _chiton_ girt at the waist, and a mantle fastened
+at the breast and falling down behind; her hair, bound with a diadem, is
+arranged over her forehead in long regular curls, and falls down her
+neck; at her side is an animal _couchant_, of which the head is broken
+off, and which is probably a gazelle.
+
+According to one legend, Cyrene was the daughter of Hypseus, king of the
+Lapithæ, in Thessaly, whose flocks she guarded against wild beasts.
+Apollo seeing her slay a lion in the valley of Pelion, became enamoured
+of her, and carried her off to the parts of Libya which afterwards bore
+her name. According to another legend, Eurypylus, king of Libya, having
+promised a portion of his kingdom to the person who would slay a lion
+then dreaded for his ravages, Cyrene performed this exploit, and
+received in reward the promised district. It is probably in connection
+with this latter legend that Libya is introduced crowning Cyrene in this
+relief. Aristæus, the mythic founder of Cyrene according to some, was
+the son of Apollo and Cyrene. The composition of this relief suggests
+the idea that it may have been a metope. Hence the words ὑπὲρ μελάθροιο
+in the inscription have been translated “above the architrave.” It was
+found in the Temple of Venus.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+[Illustration:
+
+BACCHUS,
+
+No. 61.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+APOLLO CITHARŒDES,
+
+No. 62.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+THE EMPEROR HADRIAN?
+
+No. 63.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+MINERVA & A MALE HEAD,
+
+No. 64.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+CNŒUS CORNELIUS LENTULUS MARCELLINUS,
+
+(PROPRÆTOR OF CYRENE.)
+
+No. 65.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+BRONZE ICONIC HEAD,
+
+No. 66.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+APHRODITE & FEMALE TORSO,
+
+No. 67.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ICONIC FEMALE STATUE,
+
+No. 68.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+THE EMPEROR ANTONINUS PIUS,
+
+No. 69.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+BUST OF A ROMAN EMPEROR,
+
+No. 70.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+APHRODITE EUPLOIA,
+
+No. 71.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ APHRODITE AND EROS,
+
+No. 72.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+ICONIC FEMALE FIGURE,
+
+No. 73.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+FEMALE BUST OF ROMAN PERIOD,
+
+No. 74.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+HEAD OF PERSEUS,
+
+No. 75.]
+
+[Illustration:
+
+THE NYMPH CYRENE OVERCOMING A LION
+
+& BEING CROWNED BY LYBYA,
+
+No. 76.]
+
+
+
+
+                                No. III.
+
+          LIST OF SCULPTURES FOUND ON VARIOUS SITES AT CYRENE.
+
+NOTE.—_The Nos. subjoined to each object are those now affixed to them
+in the British Museum._
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+                           TEMPLE OF APOLLO.
+
+1. Apollo Citharœdus.—Pl. 62.
+
+2. The Emperor Hadrian.—Pl. 63.
+
+3. Bronze iconic head.—Pl. 66.
+
+4. Head of Pallas Athene.—Pl. 64.
+
+5. Head of Cnæus Lentulus Marcellinus.—Pl. 65.
+
+6. Group of the nymph Cyrene overcoming a lion by strangling him. The
+nymph is attired like Diana for the chase. Her hair is bound with a
+diadem, and gathered into a club behind. Height, 2 ft. 10½ in. (3).
+
+7. Jupiter Ammon; round his lower limbs a mantle; right hand broken
+away, left hand placed behind his back. On the face are traces of red
+colour.—Representations of Jupiter Ammon are rare in sculpture. The head
+of this deity is one of the principal types on the coins of Cyrene, and
+other towns in the Cyrenaica, and occurs on the cuirass of the Roman
+emperor. (See _post_, No. 107.) Height, 2 ft. 10 in. (7).
+
+8. Youthful male figure, wearing a mantle, gathered round his waist and
+leaving the right side of his chest bare; his head bound with a twisted
+diadem. His left hand is placed behind his back; his right hand has been
+extended in front of him. The head, which is inserted in a socket, and
+may not belong to this figure, bears some resemblance to that of
+Alexander the Great. The right arm is wanting. At his feet, on the left,
+is a conical object, possibly intended to represent the Delphic
+_omphalos_: unfinished at the back. Height, 3 ft. 9 in. (26).
+
+9. A beardless figure, wearing a _chiton_, a mantle, and sandals; his
+head laurelled; his right hand held across his breast; in his left hand
+a laurel-branch; at left side, some object, perhaps a case for rolls of
+MS. This figure looks up, and may represent either a priest or a poet
+taking part in the worship of the temple. Style very late and coarse.
+Height, 3 ft. (4).
+
+10. A figure precisely similar. Height, 2 ft. 10½ in. (5).
+
+11. Female figure, wearing talaric _chiton_ and _diploidion_; over
+forehead, _sphendone_: head looks up. Arms wanting from the elbow; head
+and lower arms have been inserted in sockets. This figure may possibly
+be a Juno. Art late and bad. Height, 4 ft. 5 in. (6).
+
+12. Female figure, probably Hygieia, clad in a talaric _chiton_ and
+_diploidion_, over which is a _peplos_ wound round the body. Round right
+arm a serpent twisted; the right hand wanting; the action of the left
+arm suggests that she has held a _patera_ to feed the snake. Over the
+forehead is a radiated _sphendone_, in the centre of which a flower.
+Unfinished at the back. The head has been fitted to a socket on the
+neck, but it is doubtful whether that now adjusted belong to this
+figure. Art very late and coarse. Height, 3 ft. 8 in. (25).
+
+13. Artemis moving rapidly forward: she wears a talaric _chiton_, a
+_peplos_, and sandals; her hair is gathered up over her forehead like
+that of Apollo; her arms, which are wanting, and her feet, have been
+fitted on at a joint; her neck is let into a socket. Height, 3 ft. 3½
+in. (8).
+
+14. Female figure, wearing low _sphendone_, talaric _chiton_, girt at
+the waist, _peplos_, and shoes. Height, 2 ft. 8 in. (52).
+
+15. Small winged figure in relief, broken off at hips, which probably
+represents Somnus reclining. Height, 8 in. (107).
+
+16. Torso of small figure of Eros (?). Height, 5½ in. (109).
+
+17. Right leg, broken off halfway up the thigh, from statue of youthful
+Bacchus. At side, trunk of tree, encircled with vine-bearing branches.
+Height, 1 ft. 6 in. (103).
+
+18. Right leg from a colossal statue. This leg is broken off above the
+ancle, and terminates just above the knee, in a joint which has probably
+been concealed by drapery falling over it; it may, therefore, have
+belonged to an acrolithic statue. It is in a very fine style, and may
+have been executed in the Macedonian period. Height, 2 ft. 1 in. (15).
+
+19. Archaic head of Apollo. The back hair long, and wound round the
+crown in a braid; in front short curls. The chin broken away. This head
+is copied from the same original as the Apollo of the Phygalian room.
+(_Marbles in British Museum_, vol. xi. Pl. 32.) In the Theseium at
+Athens is a similar figure. Height, 11 in. (53).
+
+20. Youthful heroic head, looking to the right; the top of the head cut
+off flat. Roman art. Height, 10 in. (55).
+
+21. Female head bound with diadem; broken away at back of head. Blue
+marble. Height, 5¼ in. (64).
+
+22. Head of Ariadne (?); hair bound with ivy; crown cut off. Height, 6½
+in. (127).
+
+23. Head of Diana; hair gathered into a high topknot, and bound with
+diadem; eyes have been made of vitreous paste, which remains in one eye.
+Height, 7 in. (128).
+
+24. Head of Diana; hair gathered into a high topknot, and bound with
+diadem. Height, 5½ in. (129).
+
+25. Head of Diana; hair gathered into a high topknot, and bound with
+diadem. Late art. Height, 7 in. (131).
+
+26. Youthful heroic head (Theseus?); hair bound with twisted diadem;
+back of head broken off flat. A fine type. Height, 5¼ in. (124).
+
+27. Two fragments of a female head bound with a diadem. Blue marble;
+diadem painted black; eyes and hair red. Injured by fire. Height, 8½ in.
+(145).
+
+28. Left side of a female head wearing a _stephane_ and veil. Height, 5½
+in. (143).
+
+29. Female head, bound with low _stephane_. Much defaced. Height, 6 in.
+(137).
+
+30. Female head looking up; hair slightly waved, a single ringlet falls
+on each side of neck; back of head and neck cut flat. Style mean and
+late. Height, 1 ft. 2½ in. (86).
+
+31. Panther or lioness sitting on its haunches; hind-quarter broken
+away. Very rude. Height, 7½ in. (122).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                    RUINS NORTH OF TEMPLE OF APOLLO.
+
+32. Female figure.—Pl. 68.
+
+33. Diana Venatrix, wearing a succinct _chiton_, a _chlamys_ hanging
+over left arm, and _endromides_; at her side a hound; her left hand is
+advanced, and probably held a bow; a quiver rests against her right leg.
+Art very late and bad. Height, 3 ft. 11 in. (159).
+
+34. Male figure, clad in a _chiton_ and mantle; broken away below the
+knees; hands and nose wanting; his right arm, muffled in his mantle, is
+passed across his breast. The countenance is that of an aged person. The
+head being bound with a fillet, perhaps this figure may represent a
+poet. He is beardless. (See _ante_, p. 75.) Present height, 5 ft. 2 in.
+(37).
+
+35. Seated female figure, clad in a talaric _chiton_, and a _peplos_
+covering the back of her head; her feet and forearms are wanting; she
+wears a girdle tied in a singular knot under her bosom, with ornamented
+ends hanging down; her _peplos_ has a deep fringe at the edge. The edges
+of her girdle are painted in vermilion, which is still very fresh, and
+the same colour appears at the joints where the forearms are broken off.
+She is seated on an oblong seat with a cushion; her feet have rested on
+a footstool. This figure was found close to another female seated figure
+of colossal size, but in other respects resembling it very closely,
+which was inscribed with the name of Archippe, daughter of Ptolemaios, a
+priestess. It is therefore probable that the smaller seated figure may
+also be a priestess. (See _ante_, p. 75, where it is erroneously stated
+that Archippe is one of the Ptolemaic dynasty.) This statue is
+unfinished at the back, and the crown of the head has been cut away. It
+probably stood in a niche. Height, 4 ft. 2 in. (36).
+
+36. Youthful Bacchus crowned with vine-leaves. The feet remain, but the
+legs are wanting from the knees. The right forearm and the nose are
+broken away; the left elbow rests on the trunk of a tree, round which is
+twined a vine. The right hand has hung down by the side, and has held
+some object, to support which two square projections are left on right
+hip and thigh. The proportions of this figure are good, and it is fairly
+modelled. Height, 3 ft. 2 in. (27).
+
+37. Female figure, clad in a _chiton_ and _peplos_; in right hand
+_oinochoe_. Head broken off at neck, which is let into a socket. Poor
+art. Height, 2 ft. 6 in. (41).
+
+38. Legs from a male figure, life size, wearing hunting-boots; at the
+side a _nebris_, or fawn-skin, flung over the trunk of a tree. Height, 2
+ft. 1 in. (150).
+
+39. Head of Venus (?) bound with diadem; hair in deep waves, cut away at
+the back. Broken off, probably, from a statue. Height, 1 ft. 1½ in.
+(61).
+
+40. Female head; hair gathered into a knot on the crown; probably meant
+for Artemis. Art late and bad. Height, 6 in. (132).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+            SMALL BUILDING TO THE WEST OF TEMPLE OF APOLLO.
+
+41. Torso of seated female figure, wearing _peplos_ and talaric _chiton_
+bound with girdle. Height, 1 ft. 4½ in. (93).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                   NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TEMPLE OF APOLLO.
+
+42. Female head, cut off flat above the forehead, to receive the hair,
+which must have been sculptured on a different piece of marble. Height,
+11½ in. (88).
+
+43. Youthful male (?) head; traces of red colour in the eyes. The top of
+the head cut off flat to receive the hair, which must have been fitted
+on, as in the case of the head last described. Height, 8 in. (89).
+
+44. Female head; hair waved. Style late and bad. Height, 8 in. (90).
+
+45. Head of Bacchus wearing a diadem and a crown of vine-leaves, with
+bunches of grapes hanging down on each side of the cheek. Height, 7½ in.
+(92).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                            TEMPLE OF VENUS.
+
+46. Female bust.—Pl. 74.
+
+47. Statue, probably of an empress.—Pl. 73.
+
+48. Group of nymph Cyrene crowned by Libya.—Pl. 76.
+
+49. Female bust.—The head-dress is similar to that of Faustina the
+Elder, whom this bust may therefore represent, though the features have
+little likeness to that empress. The shoulders are draped. The sculpture
+is mean, and deficient in style. The end of the nose is slightly
+injured, but in other respects this head is in good condition. Height, 1
+ft. 11 in. (117).
+
+50. Aphrodite Euploia.—Pl. 71.
+
+51. Group of Venus, with Cupid on a dolphin.—Pl. 72.
+
+52. Similar group.—The Venus wants arms and head. Her drapery falls over
+a _stelé_ on left, in front of which is the Cupid. Sculpture late and
+coarse. Height, 1 ft. 1½ in. (75).
+
+53. Fragment from similar group. Eros on dolphin, holding up part of the
+drapery with right hand; at his left hand part of left leg of Venus.
+Height, 8½ in. (71).
+
+54. Fragment from similar group. No remains of the Venus. Height, 7 in.
+(72).
+
+55. Venus; lower half draped; at left side dolphin. Head and right arm
+wanting. Height, 11 in. (66).
+
+56. Draped statuette of Venus, from waist downwards. This fragment
+appears to be Greek marble, and the sculpture is of a fine period.
+Height, 1 ft. 2½ in. (22).
+
+57. Torso of nude Venus. Headless; right leg broken off halfway up
+thigh, left leg below knee; right arm broken off above wrist, left below
+shoulder; on each arm, armlet. Right arm advanced, as if to cover pubes.
+Fair Roman sculpture. Height, 1 ft. 2 in. (104).
+
+58. Head of Venus bound with _opisthosphendone_. Height, 6 in. (139).
+
+59. Upper part of reclining figure of Somnus, in relief; in right hand
+two poppy-heads. Left hand supports head. Length, 6½ in. (74).
+
+60. Dolphin from a group, placed head downwards; a female hand rests on
+his tail. Height, 1 ft. 1 in. (153).
+
+61. Torso of Eros, with ringlets falling on either side of neck.
+Sculpture of a good period. Height, 6 in. (105).
+
+62. Youthful male head, in conical cap, with flowing hair,—Atys (?).
+Height, 9½ in. (59).
+
+63. Torso from knees to neck of statuette of Diana Polymammia. Wants
+arms; round neck two archaic bracelets. Height, 6 in. (20).
+
+64. Torso of triple Hekate. Heads broken away; at the feet of one of the
+figures, a hound looking up. All these figures have their arms hanging
+down. One of them holds in her right hand an _oinochoe_; the others hold
+in the right hand some uncertain object. Height, 7½ in. (73).
+
+65. Torso of female statuette, wearing short _chiton_ and nebris.
+Artemis (?). Fair sculpture. Height, 1 ft. 1½ in. (111).
+
+66. Within a fold of pendent drapery, perhaps broken off from a statue,
+a female term, clad in a panther’s skin, and placed on a base. Artemis
+(?). Broken off at neck. Height, 6 in. (154).
+
+67. Demeter Dadophoros. Rudely sculptured in stone of the country. She
+wears a talaric _chiton_ and a _peplos_ thrown over the head; in her
+right hand she holds ears of corn, in her left a torch. Height, 1 ft. 11
+in. (50).
+
+68. Seated male figure, Jupiter (?), holding in right hand some twisted
+object, perhaps a distaff; lower half draped. Sculptured in freestone.
+Height, 1 ft. 8 in. (97).
+
+69. Isis; bust in alabaster. Broken away below breasts. The bust clad in
+a _chiton_ and fringed _peplos_, which is fastened by the _nodus
+Isiacus_. On the crown of the head is a hole for the attachment of some
+ornament; the hair bound with a _sphendone_, and falling on the neck in
+long ringlets; at the back of the head a cluster either of curls or of
+fruit. Height, 11 in. (83).
+
+70. Isis, clad in a talaric _chiton_ and a mantle, which is fastened on
+the breast in the _nodus Isiacus_. The ends of a fringed veil hang down
+on her shoulders; wants head. Fair sculpture. Height, 1 ft. 9 in. (84).
+
+71. Lower part of seated male statuette, of which the left leg and
+thigh, part of the right thigh, and the base of the lyre alone remain.
+At left side, gryphon. The proportions seem rather those of Hercules
+than of Apollo; but as the sculpture is of a late period, this deviation
+from the usual type may be only the result of ignorance in the artist.
+Height, 7 in. (101).
+
+72. Relief representing the oracular shrine of Apollo. On right, Apollo
+seated, with right foot on _omphalos_, the lower part of his body
+draped; by his side a tripod. On left, gryphon seated, and bearded
+ithyphallic term, probably of Dionysos. On the plinth, the inscription
+No. 34. Sculpture very rude and in bad condition. Height, 10 in. by 8½
+in. (77).
+
+73. Pilaster in form of Pan: on his head a bracket. Round the body a
+mantle, in which his right hand and arm are muffled; in left hand,
+syrinx. The bracket is ornamented with palm-branches. Red colour is
+quite distinct on the drapery and bracket. Height, 3 ft. 6 in. (28).
+
+74. Aristæus (?) Round the lower half of his body a mantle, falling over
+his left shoulder, his right hand on his hip; under left arm a staff,
+round which a snake is coiled. His hair is long; his head bound with a
+diadem, above which has been some kind of crown or upright head-dress;
+the crown of the head has been worked flat; his left hand, which has
+rested on his staff, is wanting. At the side of left foot, a conical
+object, which may be either a rude representation of the _omphalos_, or
+a mere support. In this figure, the features and attributes resemble
+those of Apollo, but the general type is rather heroic than divine. It
+may, therefore, be considered with probability a statue of Aristæus, the
+mythic founder of Cyrene, who, as the son of Apollo by the nymph Cyrene,
+was said to resemble him in features. Height, 4 ft. 6 in. (158).
+
+75. Head of Athene in Corinthian helmet. Well preserved. Height, 10 in.
+(60).
+
+76. Head of bearded Bacchus, from term. The hair falls in long tresses,
+and is clustered behind each temple in the archaic fashion. On the crown
+of the head a hole for the insertion of an ornament. Height, 8½ in.
+(81).
+
+77. Torso of youthful satyr, naked; head, arms, and both legs wanting.
+Well sculptured, in Greek marble. Height, 8 in. (82).
+
+78. Seated female figure, wearing a _chiton_ girt at the waist, over
+which is a _peplos_; on each side of the chair, a _sphinx_. Head, both
+hands, and head of sphinx on right wanting. Height, 11½ in. (76).
+
+79. Youthful male figure, wearing helmet, _chiton exomis_ girt up above
+the knee and fastened over left shoulder; shoulder-belt and high
+boots,—_endromides_, as if attired for the chase. Both arms wanting; the
+back is unfinished, as if this statue had stood in a niche. The right
+arm has been raised and the head turned that way. At right side, trunk
+of tree. Sculpture very rude and coarse. Height, 6 ft. 4 in. (68).
+
+80. Similar figure. Wants head; sculpture very rude and coarse. Height,
+4 ft. 11 in. (149).
+
+81. Fragment, probably of a group of a hunter and goat, of which all
+that remains is the goat standing on his hind legs, the hand which holds
+it, and one leg of the man, wearing a hunting-boot. Sculpture coarse and
+late. Height, 1 ft. ½ in. (116).
+
+82. Fragment of relief; legs clad in _endromides_; from standing male
+figure, broken off at knees. Height, 10½ in. (99).
+
+83. Draped term. Wanting head; the left hand placed across the breast,
+under the drapery, in an attitude similar to that of a female term in
+the Græco-Roman gallery at the British Museum, thought to be the Venus
+Architis. (See _Museum Marbles_, vol. ii. Pl. 37.) Height, 1 ft. 4½ in.
+(161).
+
+84. Torso of male figure, wearing cuirass and _chlamys_ girt by a belt.
+Broken off at knees and neck; much worn. Height, 10½ in. (79).
+
+85. Female figure, clad in talaric _chiton_ and _diploidion_ fastened on
+right shoulder. Wants head and arms. Height, 1 ft. 10 in. (120).
+
+86. Youthful male torso; a _peplos_ wound round his waist and over left
+forearm; right arm advanced across body. Height, 1 ft. (106).
+
+87. Fragment of relief. Female figure seated, clad in a talaric _chiton_
+and _peplos_. This is probably a fragment of a votive tablet, as the
+figure seems looking round to the right. Height, 8½ in. by 4 in. (96).
+
+88. Part of votive tablet in relief; a male and a female figure,
+standing side by side. The male figure wears a mantle round the lower
+part of his body; the female, a talaric _chiton_. Heads wanting. Height,
+1 ft. by 10½ in. (78).
+
+89. Female head, with conical head-dress; similar to that given Pl.
+74.—The apex of the cone is pierced as if for suspension. It is
+possible, therefore, that this head was used as a weight, as the bronze
+weights of Roman steelyards were sometimes fashioned in the form of
+heads. This head, like that engraved Pl. 74, is evidently a portrait.
+Height, 11 in. (40).
+
+90. Female head, bound with a _sphendone_ and wreath of ears of corn.
+Height, 6 in. (140).
+
+91. Female head; hair tied in a knot over the crown; face in bad
+condition. Height, 4 in. (130).
+
+92. Female head, bound with _stephane_. Height, 5½ in. (133).
+
+93. Heroic (?) head, bound with diadem; hair unfinished. Height, 4 in.
+(135).
+
+94. Youthful heroic head, looking to right; hair in short curls. Height,
+10 in. (56).
+
+95. Head of boy; at back of head, drapery. Height, 9 in. (57).
+
+96. Aged male head; portrait. Broken off at neck; nose slightly injured.
+Height, 7 in. (58).
+
+97. Youthful male head, in conical cap. Atys (?). Hair long. Height, 9½
+in. (59).
+
+98. Female head, bound with diadem; the crown cut off. Traces of red
+colour in the hair. Height, 6 in. (144).
+
+99. Vine branch round trunk from statue. Height, 6 in. (123).
+
+100. Fragment of group representing lion on back of bull. Rude and late.
+Height, 8 in. (112).
+
+101. Head of bull. Rude. Height, 5 in. (113).
+
+102. Legs of standing figure, clad in talaric _chiton_ and sandals; has
+been coloured red. Height, 9 in. (100).
+
+103. Dog standing on hind legs, from group. Height, 9½ in. (121).
+
+104. Head of Venus.—Hair covered with coif and bound with diadem. Badly
+preserved. Height, 4¼ in. (141).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                               AUGUSTEUM.
+
+105. Bust of Antoninus Pius.—Pl. 69.
+
+106. Bust of Marcus Aurelius.—Pl. 70.
+
+107. Head of Lucius Verus, broken at the neck.—Nose broken off;
+sculpture good, but condition indifferent. Height, 1 ft. (16).
+
+108. Torso of a Roman emperor in a cuirass.—This is the torso which was
+seen by Beechey lying on the ground, and which he supposes to have
+belonged to the statue of a Ptolemy. The building near which it was
+found (marked “Palace” on the plan of Cyrene,—see _ante_, p. 76) was,
+probably, an Augusteum, or temple dedicated to one or more Roman
+emperors, as several imperial busts and statues were discovered here.
+This cuirass is very richly ornamented with reliefs. On the breastplate
+is a female figure, draped to the feet, representing Rome. On either
+side a Victory flies towards her to crown her; the Victory on the right
+carries a cornucopia and a sash, the one on the left a trumpet. The feet
+of Rome rest on the back of the wolf suckling the twins Romulus and
+Remus, whose figures have been broken away. On the lower part of the
+cuirass are, in the centre, the head of Jupiter Ammon, and on either
+side a winged youthful head, probably Perseus, between which and the
+head of Ammon is, on either side, an eagle with spreading wings. Under
+the cuirass is a jerkin, on which are two helmets and two swords in
+sheaths, arranged alternately with the reliefs already described. On
+either flank of the cuirass is an elephant’s head. This torso evidently
+belongs to the figure of a Roman emperor. As the reliefs are finely
+executed, it is probably a work of the Augustan age. Height, 4 ft. 6 in.
+(35).
+
+109. A female figure, clad in a talaric _chiton_ girt at the waist and
+looped on the sleeves, over which falls a _peplos_, gathered over left
+arm; on the feet, shoes. The head and forearms wanting. Art coarse and
+late. Height, 5 ft. 9½ in. (33).
+
+110. Bust, perhaps intended to represent the Empress Faustina the
+Younger, as the hair is waved and gathered up behind like hers. The nose
+is broken away, which makes it very difficult to identify the person
+represented. The shoulders are covered with a _peplos_, under which is a
+tunic. Fair Roman art. Height, 1 ft. 10 in. (18).
+
+111. A block tapering upwards, which has perhaps been fitted into a
+niche. On one face is represented in low relief a youthful male figure
+wearing the Phrygian cap (Atys); his body is naked: on either side is a
+sword pointed downwards. Two holes are drilled in the plane of the
+relief, one on each side of the figure, apparently for the attachment of
+some ornament. Height, 8 in. (102).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+          LARGE TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM. (See _ante_, p. 71.)
+
+112. Part of a male head, rather larger than life; much injured by fire;
+the nose is destroyed, and the head broken in two pieces. This head is
+finely executed; the lips are painted red, the beard black. Height, 1
+ft. 2½ in. (162).
+
+113. Lower half of seated female figure, wearing a talaric _chiton_ and
+_peplos_. Demeter (?). Coarsely sculptured in stone of the country.
+Height, 6 in. (98).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+          SMALL TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM. (See _ante_, p. 75.)
+
+114. Female torso, perhaps the nymph Cyrene.—Pl. 67.
+
+115. Aphrodite.—Pl. 67.
+
+116. Fragment of face from colossal head; coarsely sculptured in blue
+marble. The nose, right cheek, and part of left eye, have been broken
+away; in the hair are traces of red colour. Height, 1 ft. 6 in. (54).
+
+117. Fragment of a group representing a bull attacked by a lion. The
+bull is crouching; of the lion, who has sprung on him from behind, the
+fore paws only remain; the head of the bull is wanting. Height, 5¼ in.
+(115).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+                           TEMPLE OF BACCHUS.
+
+118. Statue of Bacchus.—Pl. 61.
+
+119. Panther, half couching; head to left; left paw raised; round neck
+wreath of ivy; right leg and lower jaw broken away. In the stone of the
+country. Height, 1 ft. 11 in. (156).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+             FROM NEAR COLONNADE WEST OF TEMPLE OF BACCHUS.
+
+120. Female figure, draped in talaric _chiton_ and _diploidion_, over
+which is a _peplos_ wound round the body and left arm. The right hand
+rests on the hip; the head and left hand are wanting. The drapery is
+well composed, and from the goodness of the sculpture, this statue is,
+probably, of the Augustan age, and may represent some member of the
+imperial family. Height, 5 ft. 7 in. (39).
+
+121. Pallas Athene, clad in a talaric _chiton_, over which a _peplos_ is
+wound round the body. The ægis is shown on the bosom, apparently
+attached to the edge of the _peplos_, where it is doubled back between
+the breasts. The head and forearms are wanting. The drapery of this
+figure is well composed; the execution probably Roman. Height, 4 ft. 9½
+in. (31).
+
+122. Female figure, wearing a talaric _chiton_ and a _peplos_ drawn over
+the back of her head. The hair is waved in front, and bound with a
+_stephane_? Underneath the veil the hair is plaited, and twisted round
+the head, forming a sort of crown at the back. Red colour is very
+distinct on the _chiton_, over the left thigh. This figure is evidently
+a portrait, perhaps of a priestess. The execution is late and bad. The
+head-dress seems to be that of the time of Faustina the Elder. Height, 3
+ft. 11 in. (24).
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+     SCULPTURES OF WHICH THE PLACE OF DISCOVERY HAS NOT BEEN NOTED.
+
+123. Torso of male figure wearing a _chiton_ girt at the waist, over
+which is a _chlamys_ fastened on the breast and falling over the left
+arm and side; on the neck traces of red colour. The drapery is well
+composed and delicately sculptured. This torso belongs to the finest
+period of Greek art. Head, right arm, and shoulder, left hand and legs,
+wanting. Height, 12 in. (163).
+
+124. Naked male torso; the head, right leg and thigh, left leg, left
+arm, and nearly all the right arm, wanting. The figure is youthful, the
+right shoulder and arm advanced, as if he was bending a bow; at back of
+right shoulder a deep circular hole, and on the same shoulder a
+depression, showing that a quiver has been attached behind. The type of
+this figure suggests an Eros; but as there are no wings, it is probably
+an Apollo bending his bow. The marble has been much injured by fire; but
+the sculpture is superior to that of most of the Cyrene sculptures.
+Height, 1 ft. 1 in. (118).
+
+125. Group of Aphrodite and Eros. The goddess wears a _peplos_, which
+falls from her left shoulder, covering the left arm and side, and is
+wound round the right leg and thigh, partially concealing the left
+thigh; the left arm is bent, and near the shoulder is a projection where
+the hand has probably been attached; the action of the right arm, now
+wanting, cannot be ascertained; the left knee is bent; the head is
+wanting. At her right side has stood an Eros, of whom all that remains
+is the right leg and left foot. The Aphrodite is fairly modelled. This
+group probably came from the Temple of Venus. (See _ante_, No. 51.)
+Height, 1 ft. 10½ in. (69).
+
+126. Relief. Lower half of Aphrodite, holding a slight fold of drapery
+across the hips; at her left side a dolphin, head downwards. Sculpture
+very late and coarse, in stone of the country. Probably from Temple of
+Venus, like No. 69. Height, 7½ in. (70).
+
+127. Aristæus (?) Round the body a mantle which leaves the right arm and
+side bare to the waist, and is gathered up under left arm, being
+supported by the end of a long knotted staff on which this figure is
+leaning, and round which a serpent is twisted; at left side the
+_omphalos_ of Apollo: the head and left hand are wanting. The attitude,
+arrangement of the drapery, and staff with serpent, suggest an
+Æsculapius; but the form is too youthful, and the _omphalos_ connects
+the figure with Apollo. The name Aristæus seems, therefore, a probable
+attribution, as in the case of Nos. 158 and 65. Sculpture late and bad.
+Height, 2 ft. (85).
+
+128. Male head, bearded; the nose wanting; probably a Roman emperor. It
+bears some resemblance to Pertinax. Art late and coarse. Height, 1 ft.
+⁵⁄₁₀ in. (9).
+
+129. Female figure seated in a chair, clad in a talaric _chiton_, girt
+at the waist, and a _peplos_ thrown over her lower limbs; her feet on a
+footstool; right arm thrown back over rail of chair, left arm bent;
+head, part of left foot, and both hands, wanting. Composition good.
+Height, 11½ in. (94).
+
+130. Dionysos; in his right hand, now broken away, he has held an
+_amphora_; by his left foot is a jar; his hair is bound with ivy; he
+wears a mantle which leaves the right shoulder and chest, as far as the
+waist, bare. Sculpture very coarse and late, in stone of the country.
+Height, 1 ft. 3½ in. (80).
+
+131. Head of Ariadne (?) bound with an ivy wreath, and a diadem over the
+forehead; the hair hangs down the neck; the teeth are shown as the lips
+were smiling; broken off at neck. Fair sculpture. This head seems too
+feminine in type for Bacchus, and may therefore be called with
+probability Ariadne (_cf._ No. 127). Height, 8½ in. (125).
+
+132. Cybele seated in a chair, clad in a talaric _chiton_ and _peplos_;
+in right hand _phiale_, in lap a lion; on either side of chair, lion
+seated on his haunches. Height, 11½ in. (44).
+
+133. Hermaphroditos; the body draped from the feet to below the hips;
+the left hand holds up drapery on the thigh; head and both arms wanting;
+hair has flowed down the back; the ends of a diadem hang down on each
+shoulder. Rudely sculptured. Height, 3 ft. 3½ in. (45).
+
+134. Male head wearing pointed helmet, which appears to be covered with
+linen; the hair in thick and wavy masses over the forehead; the lower
+jaw broken away; the front teeth of the upper jaw are seen. Perhaps this
+head represents Atys; broken off at neck from statuette. Height, 4¼ in.
+(142).
+
+135. Part of draped female statuette: with her right hand she is
+throwing a mantle over her shoulder, advancing left leg at the same
+time; head, left arm from shoulder, and both feet, wanting. Height, 1
+ft. 8 in. (16).
+
+136. Female bust, shoulders draped; hair waved and falling down on
+either side neck; inscribed on base with the name Nemesis, daughter of
+Orion, and the date 16. (See Inscription No. 35.) Obtained from the
+Arabs. Height, 9½ in. (91).
+
+137. Female torso, wearing _chiton_ and _peplos_; head, legs, right
+forearm, and left hand, wanting: the left hand has held a cornucopia.
+This figure may therefore represent the goddess Fortune. Height, 7¼ in.
+(152).
+
+138. Fragment from high relief, probably votive. Upper portion of male
+and female figure bearing offerings, probably to a divinity; the male
+figure stoops forward, holding in right hand some object, perhaps a
+flower; he is naked and bearded; the female figure who follows him holds
+up in right hand a fruit, perhaps a pomegranate; she wears a _chiton_
+and _peplos_; her hair is gathered into a knot behind. Obtained from the
+Arabs. Height, 6 in. by 10 in. (95).
+
+139. Male figure, right hand on hip; a mantle is wound round left
+shoulder and over right hip; head, right arm from shoulder to wrist, and
+left hand, wanting. Height, 9½ in. (63).
+
+140. Male figure, wearing a mantle, which passes over left arm and
+across the chest, being gathered up under the right arm. This figure
+stands on the left leg, the right knee being bent; the left arm is
+placed behind the back. From the attitude, and arrangement of the
+drapery, it is probable that the right side leant on a staff, as in No.
+158. In that case, we may suppose this figure to be Aristæus. (See
+_ante_, No. 85.) The head and nearly all the right arm are wanting.
+Height, 1 ft. 2 in. (65).
+
+141. Torso of female figure, wearing talaric _chiton_, girt at the
+waist, and _peplos_ passing across the body and gathered over left arm;
+long hair falls over the shoulders behind. Coarsely sculptured in stone
+of the country. Height, 10 in. (108).
+
+142. Female head, crowned with turreted _stephanos_, in front of which
+is a circular flower; hair in short curls. Broken off from statuette at
+neck. Height, 4½ in. (134).
+
+143. Female head; hair gathered into a knot behind, and drawn back from
+the face; over the forehead a diadem; on the right-hand side of the head
+a projection, perhaps representing a mass of hair fastened over the
+diadem. Height, 4½ in. (138).
+
+144. Upper portion of youthful male head; hair growing away from the
+face; broken off at the eyes; much damaged by fire; unfinished at the
+back. Probably from an heroic figure. Height, 3½ in. (147).
+
+145. Iconic female bust; the hair drawn back from the face and gathered
+into a knot at the back of the head; a ringlet falls down each side of
+neck; shoulders draped. Sculpture late and bad. Height, 11 in. (148).
+
+146. Lioness seated on hind legs. Very coarse and late. Height, 1 ft. 2
+in. (155).
+
+147. Bull’s head broken off at neck. Rudely sculptured in stone of the
+country. Height, 8¼ in. (114).
+
+148. Relief, representing a votive ear. Coarse and late sculpture.
+Length, 10 in. by 6¾ in. (21).
+
+
+
+
+                                 No. IV.
+
+              INSCRIPTIONS DISCOVERED OR FOUND AT CYRENE.
+
+                               * * * * *
+
+
+Most of the inscriptions which have been discovered at Cyrene are of the
+Roman period. In the following series those which are certainly of a
+date antecedent to the Roman annexation of Cyrene are indicated as
+belonging to “a good period.” In most of these inscriptions the Doric
+dialect is used, and appears to have prevailed at Cyrene till the Roman
+period, when the κοινή was gradually introduced.
+
+          No. 1.—Pl. 77.
+
+  Γ]νάϊον Κορνήλον Λέντολον
+
+  Ποπλίω υἱὸν Μαρκελλῖνον, πρεσ-
+
+  βευτὰν ἀντιστράταγον, τὸν
+
+  πάτρωνα καὶ σωτῆρα, Κυραναῖοι.
+
+A dedication by the people of Cyrene to Cnæus Cornelius Lentulus
+Marcellinus, son of Publius, here styled Ambassador, Proprætor, Patron,
+and Saviour. This inscription is engraved on a marble base found in the
+temple of Apollo, together with a pedestal, and a head representing the
+person to whom the dedication is made. (See _ante_, p. 42 and 93.) In
+the British Museum.
+
+          No. 2.
+
+  . . . . . . . . Ἱπποκλεῦς
+
+  Ἀγασικλῆς Φιλοκλεῦς
+
+  Ἀπόλλωνι δεκάταν.
+
+A dedication of a tenth to Apollo, by Agasikles, son of Philokles, and
+some one, son of Hippokles. On a slab of marble found in some ruins to
+the north of the temple of Apollo. The upper part of this slab has been
+broken away. The letters are of a good period.
+
+          No. 3.
+
+  Πολιάνθης Ἀνάξιος
+
+  τὸμ πατέρα Ἄναξιν
+
+  Ξευξιμάχω τῷ Ἀπόλλωνι
+
+  δεκάταν ἀνέθηκε.
+
+A dedication of a statue of Anaxis, son of Xeuximachos, by his son
+Polianthes, as a tenth to Apollo. On a slab of marble found on the site
+of the temple of Apollo, before excavations were commenced there. The
+letters are of a good period. Published, Böckh, Corpus Inscriptionum,
+III. 5133, but incorrectly. See _ibid._ p. 1240.
+
+          No. 4.
+
+  Τείσων Ἰάσονος
+
+On a marble base found in some ruins on the north of the temple of
+Apollo. The letters are of the best period of Greek art.
+
+          No. 5.
+
+  ατη . . . . . . . .
+
+  το] ὺς ἑαυτοῦ
+
+  Ἀπόλλωνι.
+
+On a small slab of marble, 1 foot 7 inches by 6 inches by 4 inches,
+found under the mosaic pavement in the temple of Apollo. It is evidently
+part of a dedication to Apollo. In the British Museum.
+
+               No. 6.—Pl. 78, 79.
+
+          . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+
+          λ]οχαγοὶ τεθ[ρίππ]ων
+
+          Μναστοκλῆς Βαθυκλεῦς
+
+          Πίθακος Ἀριστωνύμω
+
+          Ἀρισταγόρας Φιλοκώμω
+
+   (5)    Ἀριστοφάνης Κλευγένευς
+
+          Δαμασίστρατος Καλλίππω
+
+          Ἀριστόπολις Εὐρυπτολέμω.
+          --
+          λοχαγοὶ μονίππων
+
+          Αριστοκλῆς Στεφάνω
+
+  (10)    Υξαν (_sic_) Εὐπτολέμω
+
+          Στράτων Κάρνιος
+
+          Πρᾶξις θευχρήστω
+
+          Πρατομήδης Φιλίππω.
+          --
+          Τριακατιάρχαι
+
+  (15)    Πολυκλῆς Μελανίππω τῶ Ἀριστάνδρω
+
+          Ἀριστοφάνης Παρα[ι]βάτα
+
+          Καλλίμαχος Ἀνν[ικ]έριος
+
+          Βαθυκλῆς Νικοστράτω
+
+          Ἰάσων Δαιμένευς
+
+  (20)    Πρῶρος Κύκνω
+
+          Θαλίαρχος Εὐρυπτολέμω
+
+          Κλέων Χάρωνος
+
+          Λύσις Ἐπικλεῦς
+
+          Φίλων Ἀννικέριος
+
+  (25)    Ἡρίλοχος Ἐ[πι]βάτα
+
+          Καλλίστρατος Χριστωνύμω
+
+          Νίκανδρος Ἀλεσάνδρω
+
+          Χάρων Ἰάσονος
+
+          Νικόδαμος Θα . . . .
+
+  (30)    Ὀνυμοκλῆς Πολυκλεῦς
+
+          Ἱππόδαμος Φιλο[δάμ]ω.
+          --
+          λοχαγοὶ πεζῶν
+
+          Πολυάρατος Παρατ . . ος
+
+          Φιλοκλῆς Θεν . . . .
+
+  (35)    Ἀντίπατρος Πολ . . . . . . ος
+
+          Πασίας Ἱπποδ[άμω
+
+          Χαιρεσίλας Ἀν[αξ]αγόρας
+
+          Ψάφων Ἀγλωμάχω
+
+          Εὐκλῆς Θευχρήστω
+
+  (40)    Σίφυρος Πιθάκω
+
+          Φίλων Θευχρήστω
+
+          Τιμῶχος Πολυτίμω
+
+          Περίανδρος Θρασυλλίωνος
+
+          Θεύδωρος Καλλιμάχω
+
+  (45)    Φρασσάμενος Ἀριστοτέλε[υς
+
+          Ἄναξις Δαμώνακτος
+
+          Πράταρχος Ὀνυμάρχω
+
+          Τιμόλας Πιθάκω
+
+          Θεύμανδρος Λυσίππω
+
+  (50)    Δαϊλέων Θευχρήστω.
+          --
+          λοχαγοὶ πελταστᾶν συμμ . . . .
+
+          τοῖς τριακατίοις
+
+          Ἀνδροκλῆς Κα[λλιμ]άχω
+
+          Ἀριστομένης Α . . . . . . . .
+
+  (55)    Πρῶρος Σωσία . .
+
+          Ἀριστοφ[ῶν . . . . . . . .
+
+          Τελεσα . . . . . .
+
+          Ευκ . . . . . .
+
+On a marble block, 4 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 1 inch by 1 foot, found in
+the Pronaos of the large temple near the Stadium. (See _ante_, p. 71.)
+This inscription gives a list of λοχαγοί, captains, of charioteers,
+τέθριπποι; of cavalry, μόνιπποι; of πεζοί, infantry; of πελτασταί, or
+light-armed infantry; and τριακατίαρχαι, or commanders of τριακάδες,
+which latter appear to have been divisions of the Ephebi in a tribe. L.
+51, συμμ. This word appears to govern τοῖς τριακατίοις. After the second
+Μ has been Ν (see the fac-simile). For τριακάτιοι see Ahrens, Dial. Dor.
+p. 280; Müller, Dor. II. p. 304, ed. Germ. The letters are of a good
+period.
+
+                          No. 7.—Pl. 79.
+
+                                    Μελά]νιππος Λυσισβάτω
+
+                                    Πολύαρχος Παυσανία
+
+         . . . . Δα]μοκρίτω         Χάρων Φαυστίω
+
+         . . . . Μελανίππω          Ξεῦξις Αἰταχίννω (_sic_)
+
+   (5)   . . . . Ἐρυσίππω           Καλλίστρατος Νικαίω
+
+         . . . . αχος Ἀρτύλα        Ἑλικὰν Λεντίχω
+
+         . . . . ατης Ὑπερόχω       Λύκος Εὐρυμάχω
+
+         . . . . ρχος Ποδώκευς      Νίκιππος Εὐφρονίω
+
+         . . . . καρτης Θράσωνο[ς   Ἀρίστων Λύκων [ος
+
+  (10)   . . . . ος Φράσωνος        Φιλόξηνος Μελανίππω
+
+         . . νιππος Ἁγήμονος        Τελέσαρχος Κρησίλα
+
+         . . Θάλωνος                Ἀντίμαχος Φιλοκώμω
+
+         . . αν Πρώρω               Ἀντίφιλος Αὔσαν [ος
+
+         . . λας Εὐκλείδα           Ἀλεξίβιος Σμυρναίω
+
+  (15)   . . αμος Μνάσιος           Ἀμμώνιος Ξήνιος
+
+         . . της Ἀκέσωνος           Ἐπήρατος Πολυδώρω
+
+         Ἀριστ]οτέλης Πράτιος       Ἄλεξις Λύγαντος
+
+         . . αρχος Παυσανία         Ἀρίστ[α]ρχος Θράσυος
+
+         . . οίδας Λυσάνορος        Ἀνάξανδρος Σχίδα
+
+  (20)   . . . Ἀριστοβώλω           Βάραιβις Μοιρισθένευς
+
+         . . ενης Χαιριείδευς       Ἐξακέστας Ἀριστίππω
+
+         . . . . . Πείσιος          Ἀλεξίμαχος Ἄλκιος
+
+         . . . . ος Νέωνος          Προκλῆς Ἰάσονος
+
+         . . . . . . άμιος          Εὐρυφῶν Ἀρίστιος.
+
+         . . . . . . λύκω
+
+On a marble slab, 16 inches by 15 inches by 3 inches, found in the
+_Pronaos_ of the large temple near the Stadium. (See _ante_, p. 71.)
+This inscription gives a list of names, probably _Ephebi_. (Compare No.
+6, _ante_.) L. 10, col. 2, φιλόξηνος, _Doricè_ for φιλόξενος. In L. 18,
+col. 2, ΑΡΙΣΤΡΟΧΣ is by mistake written for ΑΡΙΣΤΑΡΧΟΣ. The letters are
+of a good period. In the British Museum.
+
+           No. 8.—Pl. 80.                            Νο. 9.
+
+         [Ὑπὲρ τῆς τοῦ Αὐτο-                 κας . . . . . . . . . .
+
+         κράτορος Τρα-                       χεριων . . . . . . . .
+
+         ϊανοῦ Γερ]μ[α-                      μοιηα . . . . . . . .
+
+         νικοῦ] Δακικο[ῦ                     τῇ (?) ἐκ το[ῦ. . . .
+
+   (5)   νίκης] καὶ δια-               (5)   νος ετο . . . . . . . .
+
+         μο]νῆς καὶ τοῦ                      καὶ αὐ . . . . . . . .
+
+         σύμ] παντος [αὐ-                    νε . . . . . . . . . . . .
+
+         τοῦ] οἴκου καὶ                      . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+
+         τῆς ἱερᾶς συν-
+
+  (10)   κλ]ήτου καὶ δήμ-
+
+         ου Ῥωμαίων
+
+         Ἀντωνία Μεγώ
+
+         Μ. Ἀντωνίο[υ ἱερατ-
+
+         εύ]σαντος [τοῦ δεῖνα
+
+  (15)   κ]αὶ . . . . . . . .
+
+         νίου Σω . . . . . .
+
+         καὶ Ἡγισαν . . . .
+
+         τοῦ Βωλακλέος Ἱ-
+
+         έρεια Ἀρτέμιδος
+
+  (20)   ἀριστιει τὰς τὴν
+
+         πόλιν καὶ τὴν χώρ-
+
+         αν κα]τοικούσας παρ-
+
+         [θένους . . . . . . . . . .
+
+On two fragments of a narrow slab of marble found in ruins to the north
+of the temple of Apollo. (See _ante_, p. 75.) No. 8 measures 1 foot 10
+inches by 9½ inches; No. 9, 11 inches by 7½ inches. The first part of
+this inscription is probably a dedication in honour of the Emperor
+Trajan, identified here by the epithet ΔΑΚΙΚΟ[Υ. In the latter lines a
+priestess of Artemis is mentioned, who promises to give a breakfast,
+ἀριστιει, to all the virgins dwelling in the city and territory of
+Cyrene. The name Μεγώ, l. 12, occurs in a list of priestesses of Cyrene
+(Corpus Inscript. No. 5143). ἀριστιει would appear to be an error of the
+lapidary for ἀριστίζει, as there is no such form as ἀριστίω. The
+fragment No. 9 is too mutilated to admit of any conjectural restoration,
+but it belongs to the same slab. In the British Museum.
+
+                No. 10.—Pl. 80.
+
+          . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+
+          Ἀγκάρηνος . . . .
+
+          Τι. Κλαύδιος Τορκο . . . .
+
+          ἡ πόλις
+
+          Τ. Φλάβιος Βαρκα[ῖος (?)
+
+    (5)   ἡ πόλις
+
+          Τ. Φλάβιος Ἀγχιοτ . . . .
+
+          Μ. Οὔλπιος Ἀριο . . . . . .
+
+          δεγμος Κασκέλλ[ιος
+
+          Τ]ι. Κλαύδιος Βατ . . . .
+
+   (10)   Φιλιππο . . . . . .
+
+On a block of marble lying on the mosaic pavement in the temple of
+Apollo. This inscription contains a list of names, but it is too
+mutilated to admit of the purport being ascertained.
+
+  No. 11.—Pl. 80.
+
+  Διὸς Σωτῆρος.
+
+On a column of sandstone, 1 foot 5 inches in diameter, broken at the
+top, but present height 3 feet; found in ruins to the north of the
+temple of Apollo. (See _ante_, p. 75.) The inscription shows that the
+altar was dedicated to Zeus Soter.
+
+          No. 12.—Pl. 81.
+
+  ὑπὲρ τῆς Νέρωνος Κλαυδίου
+
+  Καίσαρος νίκης καὶ σωτηρίας
+
+  καὶ τοῦ οἴκου αὐτοῦ παντὸς
+
+  Ἀπόλλωνι Ἀποβατηρίῳ
+
+  Μ. Ἀντώνιος Γέμελλος ἐκ τῶν τοῦ
+
+      Ἀπόλλωνος.
+
+On a block of blue marble, 2 feet 3½ inches by 2 feet 9½ inches by 12½
+inches, found in some ruins north of the temple of Apollo. (See _ante_,
+p. 75.) This is a dedication to the Apollo Apobaterios, “the protector
+of persons landing,” offered by M. Antonius Gemellus, from the funds of
+the temple of Apollo, as a vow for the success and safety of the Emperor
+Nero and all his family. From the epithet ἀποβατήριος applied to Apollo
+in this inscription, it may be inferred that the emperor was then
+engaged in some voyage. The name ΝΕΡΩΝΟΣ, in l. 1, is nearly erased. In
+the British Museum.
+
+          No. 13.—Pl. 81.
+
+  ὑπὲρ τῆς Νέρωνος Κλαυδίου
+
+  Καίσαρος νίκης καὶ σωτηρίας
+
+  καὶ τοῦ οἴκου αὐτοῦ παντὸς
+
+  Ἀπόλλωνι Μυρτώῳ Μ. Ἀντώνιος
+
+  Γέμελλος ἐκ τῶν τοῦ Ἀπόλλωνος.
+
+On a block of blue limestone found in some ruins to the north of the
+temple of Apollo. (See _ante_, p. 75.) This is a dedication to the
+Myrtoan Apollo, offered by M. Antonius Gemellus, from the funds of the
+temple of Apollo, as a vow for the success and safety of the Emperor
+Nero and all his family. Published, Böckh, Corpus Inscript., III. No.
+5138.
+
+    No. 14.—Pl. 81.
+
+  Φι] λῖνος Φιλίνου
+
+  ἱαριτεύων
+
+    ἀνέθηκε.
+
+On a circular marble pedestal or altar, 2 feet 1 inch by 1 foot 10
+inches, found near the north-east angle of the temple of Apollo. (See
+_ante_, p. 75.) A dedication by Philinos, son of Philinos, priest,
+probably, of Apollo.
+
+          No. 15.—Pl. 82.
+
+    . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+
+    . . . . . . επισ. . . .
+
+  δημαρχι]κῆς ἐξ[ουσίας
+
+      τὸ γ′ ὑπ[άτῳ
+
+  τὸ γ′ πατρὶ πατρἰ-
+
+  δος ἡ Κυρηναίω[ν
+
+  πόλις, ἀφιερώσα[ν-
+
+  τος Α. Μινικίου
+
+  Ῥούφου ἀνθυπάτου.
+
+On a block of sandstone found in the temple of Apollo. (See _ante_, p.
+43.) This appears to be the dedication, by the Proconsul of Cyrene, A.
+Minicius Rufus, to some emperor, in his third consulship and third
+tribuneship; but these dates do not serve to identify him. The
+dedication is made in the name of the people of Cyrene. The name A.
+Minicius Rufus does not occur in Gruter’s Corpus Inscript. Latin.
+
+          No. 16.—Pl. 82.
+
+  . . . . . . Πτο]λεμαῖον Σωτήρων
+
+  . . . . . . ιστων Λυσιφάνευς
+
+      ἀνέθηκε.
+
+On a slab of marble built into the corner of a wall, in the restored
+part of the temple of Apollo, on the second story. As the inscribed face
+was turned inwards, this marble must have been taken from some earlier
+edifice. This is a dedication by some one, son of Lysiphanes. The
+letters are of a good period.
+
+          No. 17.—Pl. 82.
+
+  . . . . χως Ἡσυχίῳ τῷ κτίστῃ.
+
+On a pedestal, 2 feet 9 inches by 1 foot 7½ inches by 1 foot 7 inches,
+ornamented with enriched mouldings, found between the temple of Venus
+and the building marked “Palace” on the Plan, but which is probably an
+Augusteum.
+
+             No. 18.—Pl. 83.
+
+  Εὐβάτας Ἀκεσάνδρω     Ἀλεξίμαχος Αἰγα . . . .
+
+  Ἡρίλοχος Στράτητος    Ἐτυμοκλῆς Ἀρις . .
+
+  Ἁγήσαρχος Κλέωνος     δαμοκοσμοθε . . . .
+
+  Τελεσφορέντες             τὰν θ[εόν (?)
+
+On a slab of marble found in a building near the temple of Bacchus,
+marked “Palace” on the Plan, but which is probably an Augusteum. (See
+_ante_, p. 76.) Ll. 3, 4 cannot be read satisfactorily. The Ο at the end
+of δαμο is quite clear in the rubbing, otherwise we might read
+Ἀρισ[τοδάμω κοσμοθ[έται]. Τελεσφορέντες is also perfectly clear, but how
+it can be formed from τελεσφορέω is not so clear. It may be either
+miswritten for τελεσφορεῦντες? or formed from τελεσφόρημι. In Hom. we
+have φορῆναι, φορήμεναι, &c.
+
+          No. 19.—Pl. 82.
+
+  Κυρήνην πολίων μητρόπτολιν, ἣν στέφει αὐτὴ
+
+     ἠπείρων Λιβύη τρισσὸν ἔχουσα κλέος,
+
+  Ἐνθάδ’ ὑπὲρ μελάθροιο λεοντοφόνον θέτο Κάρπος,
+
+     Εὐξάμενος μεγάλης σῆμα φιλοξενίης.
+
+At the foot of a bas-relief found on the site of the temple of Venus.
+(See _ante_, p. 77 and p. 97.) The inscription records the dedication of
+the relief, in token of great hospitality, by one Karpos, who, it may be
+presumed, had as a stranger been hospitably received by the people of
+Cyrene. The subject of the relief is stated to be the crowning of the
+lion-slaying nymph Cyrene by Libya, who has the triple glory of
+continents—ἠπείρων τρισσὸν ἔχουσα κλέος. This seems to refer to the
+threefold population of Libya, native Africans, and European and Asiatic
+colonists. The relief is to be placed ὑπὲρ μελάθροιο, which must be
+translated “above the architrave,” for the relief is evidently a metope.
+
+          No. 20.—Pl. 83.
+
+  Γ]άϊος Νώνιο[ς . . . . εινος
+
+    τῇ θεῷ
+
+  Μιλήσιος ὁ καὶ Κυρηνε . . . . . . ενος
+
+On a marble pedestal found in the _cella_ of the temple of Venus. (See
+_ante_, p. 77.) A statue must have stood on this pedestal, as part of
+the feet remained.
+
+                No. 21.—Pl. 83.
+
+     . . . . . .            . . . . . . . .
+
+  . . . . . . σαγόρα φ      Ἀννικέρ[ιος
+
+  . . . . . . Ξούθω φ       Λυσι . . . .
+
+  . . . . Ἀ]λέξιος φ        Φιλοκώ[μω
+
+  . . . . Θευχρήστω φ         Σωσικράτευς
+
+          Βιάνδρω φ         Λυ . . . .
+
+              Ἀναξ. . . .
+
+Fragment of a slab of marble found in the Augusteum. (See _ante_, p.
+76.) This inscription seems to be part of a list of subscribers to some
+public contribution.
+
+          No. 22.—Pl. 83.
+
+  Ἀστυκράτης
+
+   Εὐκλείδα
+
+On a marble pedestal, 4 feet by 1 foot 6 inches by 1 foot, found in the
+_pronaos_ of the temple of Venus. (See _ante_, p. 77.) The letters are
+of a good period.
+
+          No. 23.—Pl. 83.
+
+  Αὐτοκράτορα Καίσαρα Τεῖτον Αἴ]λιον Ἀδριανὸν
+
+  Ἀντωνεῖνον Σεβαστὸν θεῶ Ἀδριανοῦ] υἱὸν, θεῶ
+
+  Τραϊανοῦ Παρθικοῦ] υἱωνὸν, θεῶ
+
+  Νερούα ἔγγονον, σωτῆρα κ]αὶ εὐεργέταν
+
+  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ὑπὸ Τείτου
+
+Fragment of a slab of marble found in the Augusteum. (See _ante_, p.
+76.) This appears to be part of a dedication to the Emperor Antoninus
+Pius, whose bust was found in the same building.
+
+          No. 24.—Pl. 84.
+
+  Μ. Ἀντώνιος Κερέαδις
+
+  Πτολεμαίου Ι.Ι.Ι.Ι. υἱός
+
+      Αἰγλάνωρ
+
+  Μητρόδωρος Ι. τοῦ
+
+  Μητροδώρου
+
+  L{ρη}. Τι. Κλαύδιος Ἀρχίππου
+
+   υἱὸς Ἄρχιππος
+
+  L{pθ} Μ. Ἀντώνιος Μ. Ἀντωνίου
+
+    Φλάμμα υἱὸς Κασκέλλιος.
+
+On a large marble slab, measuring 3 feet 1 inch by 2 feet 7 inches by 1
+foot 1 inch, built into a partition wall in the temple of Apollo, the
+writing turned inwards. It contains a list of names of priests of
+Apollo. This is shown by the inscription from Cyrene (Corpus Inscript.,
+III. No. 5144), where the name M. Antonius Kaskellios occurs with the
+same date. Λ is Λυκάβαντι, _in the year_ . . . The two dates {ρη} and
+{pθ} refer to the era of Actium. (See Franz, Corpus Inscript., _loc.
+cit._ &c., p. 1241.) The four vertical strokes which precede the word
+υἱός, l. 2, probably indicate that the ancestors of M. Antonios Kereadis
+for four generations had been called Ptolemaios. The use of vertical
+strokes is peculiar here. The usual way of marking the successive
+generations is either by letters, α′ β′ γ′, or by the words δίς, τρίς,
+κ.τ.λ. (_See_ Franz, Elementa Epigraphices Græcæ, p. 304.) So Μητρόδωρος
+Ι. τοῦ Μητροδώρου is Metrodoros, grandson of Metrodoros. The M. Antonius
+Flamma mentioned in this inscription is probably the same as the
+Antonius Flamma mentioned by Tacitus, Hist. IV. 45.
+
+          No. 25.—Pl. 84.
+
+  Ἀσκλαπὸν Ἀσκλαπῶ ἱερατεύον-
+
+  τα τῶ Ἀπόλλωνος ἀρετᾶς ἕ[νε-
+
+  κα καὶ εὐνοίας ἅς ἔχων δια[τε-
+
+  λεῖ ἔς τε τὸς κοινὸς εὐεργ[έτας
+
+  Ῥωμαίος καὶ ἐς τὰν πόλιν κα[ὶ
+
+  τὸς ἱαρὲς καὶ τᾶς ποτὶ τὸ[ς θεὸς
+
+  χάριν εὐ]σεβείας οἱ ἱαρὲς τ[ῶ
+
+   Ἀπ]όλλωνος ἀνέθ[ηκαν.
+
+On a slab of marble built into a rough modern wall about 20 yards to the
+westward of the temple of Apollo. Published, Böckh, Corpus Inscript.,
+III. No. 5131, from a copy taken before the marble was broken at the
+edges, and which is therefore more complete; and Letronne, Journal des
+Savans, 1848, p. 372.
+
+On the reverse of the same slab—
+
+          No. 26.—Pl. 84.
+
+  Τ. Κλαύδιος Ἀριστομέ-
+
+  νης Μάγνος, ὁ καὶ
+
+  Περικλῆς, ἱαρειτεύων
+
+  ἕκταν τᾶν τῶ Ἀπόλλω-
+
+  νος προσόδων.
+
+This is a dedication of a statue in honour of Asclapos, priest of
+Apollo, on account of his services to the city, the Romans, and the
+priests, and his piety to the gods. The dedication is made by the
+priests of Apollo. This records a dedication made out of a sixth part of
+the revenues of the temple of Apollo by T. Claudius Aristomenes Magnus,
+priest of Apollo. Published by Franz, Corpus Inscript., III. No. 5137,
+who reads ἐκ τᾶν τῶ Ἀπόλλωνος, and rejects the second ΤΑΝ as an
+erroneous repetition; but the reading is certain. (_See_ Letronne,
+Journal des Savans, 1848, p. 371.)
+
+          No. 27.—Pl. 85.
+
+  Ἀριστοτέλης
+
+  Σώσιος, ἱαρεὺς
+
+  Ἀπόλλωνος, μηθέ-
+
+  να ἐντίθη . .
+
+In large letters over one of the recesses in a large tomb on the south-
+east side of the city, adjoining the path leading to Sassaf and
+Gheigheb. L. 4, ἐντίθη for ἐντίθει. Published, Böckh, Corpus Inscript.,
+III. No. 5154.
+
+         No. 28.—Pl. 85.
+
+  Γάϊος Ἀπείσιος       Διονύσω
+
+  Νίγερ πρεσβύτερος    ἱερεὺς
+
+      σν
+
+Over a compartment in the interior of a small tomb in the Eastern
+Necropolis. This inscription contains the name of Caius Apeisios Niger,
+a priest of Dionysos, a temple of which Deity was discovered in the
+course of the excavations.
+
+          No. 29.—Pl. 86.
+
+  Βαρκλῆος
+
+  Ἀστυκλεῦς
+
+  Μνάστα
+
+  Κρίνιος.
+
+Over a recess in the same tomb whence No. 27 is taken. Published, Corpus
+Inscript., III. No. 5166; and Pacho, tab. LXV. 10, where the first name
+is incorrectly read Χ]αρ[ι]κλῆος.
+
+  No. 30.—Pl. 86.               No. 31.—Pl. 86.
+
+  Σίμων Σι . . . . . . . .         Στράτω-
+
+  Πευσάν-                          ν Εὐπό-
+
+  δρου L δ′.                        λιδος
+
+                                     L λ′.
+
+          No. 32.—Pl. 86.
+
+  Ποπελίας Πευσά-
+
+  νδρου ΘLλθ′.
+
+Nos. 30, 31, 32 are round the entrance of a small tomb in the Eastern
+Necropolis. The four last letters of l. 2 seem to be ΘΛ[υκάβαντι] λθ′,
+the year 38, recording probably the age at which Popelias died. The
+significance of the Θ which precedes the L must be left to conjecture;
+perhaps it stands for θεοῖς.
+
+          No. 33.
+
+  . . . . ΡΑΙΑΝΩΙΑΔΡΙΑΝΩ. . . .
+
+  . . . . ΟΝΣΥΝΤΩΙΠΡΟΝ . . . .
+
+     ΤΩ . . . . ΦΛ . . . . ΦΛ . . . .
+
+          Τ]ραϊανῷ Ἀδριανῷ
+
+         τὸν να]ὸν σὺν τῷ πρόν[αῳ
+
+         τω φλ φλ
+
+On a piece of architrave of sandstone, found in ruins to the north of
+the temple of Apollo. This appears to be part of the dedication of a
+temple to the Emperor Trajan.
+
+
+                                THE END.
+
+
+[Illustration: PL. 77.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 78.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 79.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 80.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 81.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 82.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 83.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 84.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 85.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+[Illustration: PL. 86.
+
+CYRENE.
+
+Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen
+
+INSCRIPTIONS]
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[Footnote 1: Thrige, p. 48.]
+
+[Footnote 2: We were informed by some Arabs that these paintings were
+quarried out by M. Bourville.]
+
+[Footnote 3: The plans of the Temples of Apollo and Bacchus, have
+unfortunately been lost.]
+
+[Footnote 4: In the foreground, Plate 46, is shown a circular tomb,
+protected by an outer wall, with a passage left between. We did not meet
+with this type of tomb at Cyrene.]
+
+[Footnote 5: Another place he had intended to make a stand and dispute
+our passage was at a range of tombs called by the Arabs the
+“Kenissieh.”]
+
+[Footnote 6: The view opposite will show more clearly this locality, as
+well as the exterior of the tombs we lived in during our stay.]
+
+[Footnote 7: Ueber eine in der Gegend der ehemaligen Kyrene gesammelte
+Wurzelrinde, und über das Silphium der alten Griechen.
+
+Dr. Schroff gives the following references to modern literature of
+_Silphium_:—
+
+  _Link_, Ueber das Kyrenäische Silphium. Akad. Berlin, 19 März, 1829.
+
+  _Böttiger_, Ueber das Silphium oder Laser von Kyrene. Oken’s Osis.
+  1829, p. 317.
+
+  _Sprengel_, Beiträge zur Geschichte der Medicin, i. pt. i. 1794;
+  Geschichte der Botanik, i. 1817.
+
+  _Thrige_, Res Cyrenensium, &c. Hafniæ, 1828.
+
+  _Eckhel_, Doctrina Numorum veterum conscripta. Pt. i. vol. iv. Vindob.
+  1794.
+
+  _Müller_, Numismatique de l’ancienne Afrique. Vol. i. Les Monnaies de
+  la Cyrénaïque. Copenh. 1860.
+
+  _Macé_, Rev. Archéologique, xiv. 1857.
+
+  _Beechey_, Expedition, chap. xv.
+
+  _Pacho_, Voy. dans la Cyrénaïque en 1825, ch. xviii.
+
+  _Cella_, Viaggio da Tripoli, &c., Geneva, 1819, p. 127.
+
+  _Barth_, Wanderungen, &c. Bd. i. 1849.]
+
+[Footnote 8: “Es gibt nicht gar so viele Medicinalpflanzen der alten
+Welt, von denen man mit einer solchen Sicherheit behaupten kann, dass
+sie mit uns genau bekannten Pflanzen zusammen fallen, wie dies hier mit
+der Thapsia der Alten und mit _Thapsia Silphium_, und _Th. garganica_
+unserer Botaniker der Fall ist.”—(_Thapsia Silphium_, of Viviani, is a
+mere variety of _T. Garganica_.)]
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78462 ***
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+</head>
+<body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78462 ***</div>
+<div class="margins">
+<div class="transnote x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<p class="center">Large-size versions of illustrations are
+available by clicking on them.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="x-ebookmaker-drop space-above2">
+</p>
+
+<div class="x-ebookmaker-drop figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="cover"><a href="images/cover.jpg"><img src=
+'images/cover_thumb.jpg' alt='[Cover]'></a>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center spaced2"><span class="xlarge">HISTORY</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">OF</span><br>
+<span class="xlarge">RECENT DISCOVERIES AT CYRENE.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i00">
+<p class="platelabel">FRONTISPIECE</p>
+<a href="images/i00_large.jpg"><img src='images/i00.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del., T. Picken, lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">EASTERN END OF THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="titlepage">
+<h1><span class="xxlarge letter-spaced02">HISTORY</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="xxlarge letter-spaced">RECENT DISCOVERIES AT
+CYRENE,</span><br>
+<span class="vsmall">MADE DURING AN</span><br>
+<span class="large">EXPEDITION TO THE CYRENAICA IN
+1860-61,</span><br>
+<span class="small">UNDER THE AUSPICES OF HER MAJESTY’S
+GOVERNMENT.</span>
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center spaced17 space-above15"><span class=
+"vsmall">BY</span><br>
+<span class="sc letter-spaced01">Captain</span> R. <span class=
+"letter-spaced01">MURDOCH SMIT</span>H, R.E.<br>
+<span class="tiny">AND</span><br>
+<span class="sc">Commander</span> E. A. PORCHER. R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="publisher"><span class="less90 letter-spaced01">DAY &
+SON,</span><br>
+<span class="small"><span class="letter-spaced01">LITHOGRAPHERS TO
+THE QUEEN AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES,</span><br>
+6, GATE STREET, LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS, LONDON, W.C.<br>
+1864.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center small">[<em>All rights of Translation and
+Reproduction are reserved.</em>]</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center spaced2"><span class="vsmall">TO</span><br>
+<span class="large">HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF SOMERSET, K.G.</span><br>
+<span class="small"><span class="sserif">FIRST LORD OF THE
+ADMIRALTY,</span><br>
+IN ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF THE PROMPT AND VALUABLE ASSISTANCE<br>
+AFFORDED TO THE AUTHORS,<br>
+DURING THE PROSECUTION OF THEIR LABOURS,</span><br>
+<span class="letter-spaced02">THIS VOLUME</span><br>
+<span class="small">IS RESPECTFULLY AND GRATEFULLY
+DEDICATED.</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_vii">[vii]</span><a id="pref"></a><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">PREFAC</span>E.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<p class="dcap">THE Cyrenaica, although bordering on the shores of
+the Mediterranean, and very little removed from the most civilized
+nations in Europe, has been rarely visited by travellers, either
+for pleasure or antiquarian research, owing perhaps to the supposed
+difficulty presented by the country itself, and by the character of
+the people inhabiting it.</p>
+
+<p>The former, however, is not only beautiful, but fruitful. The
+number of olive-trees, now entirely neglected, to be seen
+everywhere, shows that at one time the inhabitants cultivated this
+plant to a considerable extent, and enjoyed the advantages of
+superior husbandry; but this is no longer the case, and the ground
+now only yields scanty crops of wheat and barley, and indifferent
+pasture for the rearing of cattle, sheep, and goats. Were the
+character of the people different and any authority acknowledged
+amongst them, the present desolation would give place to a
+different state of things; but this change can hardly at present be
+expected; and so long as the sentence, passed ages ago, “his hand
+shall be against every man, and every man’s hand against him,”
+remains unrevoked, the same restlessness under control and
+indifference to all social comfort, which now exist, will still
+characterize the inhabitants. The natural beauty of the country,
+however, is still unaltered, and plains and hills, well wooded in
+many parts, meet the eye in every direction, and render it one of
+the finest provinces in Northern Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Another reason perhaps why Cyrene has not been explored so much
+as other localities, is that there are few remains of its former
+grandeur visible above the ground. Were the vast piles of
+magnificent architecture now gathered in confused heaps on the
+sand-banks at Thebes and Luxor to be seen at Cyrene, travellers, no
+doubt, would have made it a greater object of attention than they
+have done. But all the splendour of the ancient Cyrenaica, with few
+exceptions, lies buried below the surface of the earth; and here,
+over the palaces of kings and the remains of former magnificence,
+the Arabs pitch their tents and the camels browse.</p>
+
+<p>Before commencing the narrative recorded in the following pages,
+it will be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[viii]</span>
+interesting to mention the principal travellers who have visited
+the country for scientific purposes during the last two
+centuries.</p>
+
+<p>The first we hear of was Lemaire, who, during the time he was
+the French Consul at Tripoli, explored the country in 1706, by
+direction of Louis XIV. He was followed by Paul Lucas, who visited
+it twice, in 1710 and 1723. After him Doctor Thomas Shaw travelled,
+in 1738, over those parts, as well as a considerable portion of
+North Africa, and left an interesting account of his discoveries,
+and of the manners and customs of the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>A French gentleman, Monsieur Granger, a physician by profession,
+accomplished the overland journey from Egypt to Cyrene in 1760, in
+company with a robber chief, to whom he promised a high reward on
+his return. Under this dangerous protection he copied several of
+the inscriptions that were found there; but these, with his
+journal, were unfortunately lost before his return to Europe. Our
+celebrated Abyssinian traveller James Bruce also visited parts of
+the country 1768-72.</p>
+
+<p>In the present century the first person who visited Cyrene was
+an Italian, Doctor Cervelli. In 1812, the Pacha of Tripoli, wishing
+to punish the revolt of his son, the Governor of Derna, sent an
+armed force into the province, and Doctor Cervelli accompanied the
+expedition, and collected during his journey some interesting
+information, which was published by the French Geographical
+Society. A few years after, in 1817, the same Pacha despatched a
+second expedition against some turbulent Arabs at Merdj (Barca),
+and this party was accompanied by another Italian, Della Cella, who
+travelled as Physician attendant on the Bey, and published an
+account of his travels, which was translated into English in 1822;
+but his hurried visit did not allow him sufficient time to collect
+much valuable information. Cyrene was also visited by P. Pacifique,
+a missionary from Tripoli, who added some fresh information to that
+given by Della Cella.</p>
+
+<p>In 1820, a Prussian, General Minutoli, formed a project of
+making a complete tour of the Cyrenaica, and was accompanied by
+savants and artists to make his journey of greater importance. As
+soon as he had arrived at the foot of Mount Catabathmus, which is
+situated above half-way from Egypt, he lost three of his Europeans,
+and this misfortune and the obstacles the Arabs opposed to his
+party so disheartened him that he returned to Alexandria without
+accomplishing his object.</p>
+
+<p>The ill-success of the Prussian general left the country still
+insufficiently explored for scientific purposes, and this induced
+two travellers, Captain Beechey and M. Pacho, to undertake the
+task.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Beechey and his brother started from Tripoli by land,
+making the circuit of the Syrtis Major, and explored the whole of
+the country in 1821-2, drew very correct plans, and fixed the
+astronomical positions of all the principal towns, and<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_ix">[ix]</span> wrote a detailed account of
+their travels. A surveying vessel at the same time examined and
+laid down the coast-line.</p>
+
+<p>This party had hardly returned when Pacho, a French artist,
+visited the country, in 1824-6, and his travels were published in
+Paris by M. Didot in 1827, in a quarto volume of text, and another
+containing 100 well-executed plates in folio. He was not aware,
+when he started, what discoveries Captain Beechey and his brother
+had made, as their work was not published for some years
+afterwards; and therefore it was a matter of great regret to him to
+find on his return that many of his own researches, which had cost
+him so much labour and trouble, had been anticipated by his
+predecessors.</p>
+
+<p>Since these two principal works of Captain Beechey and M. Pacho
+were published, M. Delaporte, the French Consul at Tangier, has
+contributed to the Geographical Society of Paris the result of his
+exploration, and M. Vattier de Bourville, during the time he was
+French Consular Agent at Benghazi, in 1848-9, collected a large
+number of vases and terra-cotta ornaments from the tombs at that
+place, which are now deposited in the Louvre, and also made a short
+visit to Cyrene.</p>
+
+<p>The intrepid traveller Dr. Barth passed over this country before
+he commenced his more hazardous expedition to Timbuctoo and the
+central regions of Africa; and lastly Mr. James Hamilton, in
+1855-6, who afterwards proceeded inland from Benghazi, across part
+of the Sahara, to the oases of Augila and Siwah, on his way to
+Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>Few of the travellers just mentioned remained any time in the
+country, and it was quite evident that no attempt at excavation to
+any extent had ever been made before our arrival, as sculpture in
+excellent preservation was found a few feet under the surface, on
+the most promising sites, where people would naturally be led to
+commence their researches.</p>
+
+<p>The valuable works of Beechey and Pacho before mentioned have
+left but little for future visitors to record, and as all the
+principal monuments left standing have been accurately drawn and
+described, it would be superfluous for us to go over the same
+ground again. The following pages will therefore be principally
+devoted to an account of the excavations that were carried on by my
+companion and myself and will also contain a description of the
+site of Cyrene, its Necropolis, and the surrounding country,
+together with a brief notice of the sculptures discovered.</p>
+
+<p>The ten plates of unedited Greek inscriptions have been
+lithographed in fac-simile from impressions of the originals
+reduced by photography, and a selection from the sculpture has been
+photographed by Mr. Francis Bedford.</p>
+
+<p>In the absence of Captain Smith, who is at present
+professionally employed in Persia, I take this opportunity of
+thanking the Government authorities and the Trustees<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span> of the British Museum for their
+assistance from the commencement of the undertaking until its
+close, and also to the officers and crews of the <em>Assurance</em>
+and <em>Melpomene</em>, who cheerfully and efficiently carried out
+the orders of the Admiralty in the removal of the sculpture from
+Cyrene to the place of embarkation.</p>
+
+<p>Also to Mr. C. T. Newton for his useful advice during the time
+we were in the country, and for his valuable assistance whilst
+these pages were going through the press; and to Mr. W. S. W. Vaux,
+of the British Museum.</p>
+
+<p class="right pad-right2">E. A. PORCHER.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xi">[xi]</span><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">CONTENT</span>S.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c01">CHAPTER
+I.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">HISTORY OF CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Derivation of the names Cyrenaica and Pentapolis —
+Causes which led to the country being colonized by a body of
+Dorians from Thera — Battus, the leader of this band, first takes
+possession of the island of Platea, and afterwards removes to
+Cyrene — Coalescence of the settlers with the Libyans — The dynasty
+of the Battiadæ — Constitution drawn up by Demonax, and granted by
+Battus III. — Attempt to overthrow it by his successor, Arcesilaus
+III., aided by his mother Pheretime, which is unsuccessful, and
+ends by his being murdered at Barca — The town is besieged by
+Aryandes, Satrap of Egypt, and taken by treachery — Brutal revenge
+of Pheretime on the inhabitants — Extinction of the dynasty —
+Condition of the new republic, and alliance with Alexander the
+Great — Becomes subject to Egypt — The names of the towns are
+changed — The last king of the Egyptian dynasty, Apion, leaves the
+country to the Romans by his testament, which is afterwards reduced
+by them to a province — Insurrection of the Jews, and a great
+massacre of the Romans and Cyrenæans — Sufferings of the population
+from the attacks of the Libyan barbarians, and by the ravages of
+locusts, plagues, and earthquakes — The Persian Chosroes overthrows
+the remains of the Greek colonies, which are finally overrun by the
+Arabs — Peculiar manner in which the boundary-line was fixed
+between Carthage and Cyrene — Eminent philosophers who lived at
+Cyrene — Description of the country and its former products —
+Recent history of the country. — <em>Page</em> 1.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c02">CHAPTER
+II.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Reasons which led to the expedition being
+undertaken — Peculiar difficulties from the nature of the country —
+Equipment, with assistance of the Foreign Office and other
+authorities in England to carry it out — List of the outfit. —
+<em>Page</em> 7.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c03">CHAPTER
+III.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">TRIPOLI.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Leave Malta in the gunboat <em>Boxer</em>, and
+arrive at Tripoli — The Meshia — Position of the Castle and the
+Pacha’s harem — Visit to the artillery and cavalry barracks —
+Unsuccessful attempt to overthrow the Turkish government by Ghomer
+during the late Russian war — Notice of Tripoli, by John Ogilby. —
+<em>Page</em> 10.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c04">CHAPTER
+IV.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">BENGHAZI.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Leave Tripoli, and arrive at Benghazi — Adopt it as
+our base of operations — The wretched state of the town, and the
+plague of flies — The Castle and the principal buildings — Make
+friends with the Arab shiekhs, and engage an Arab of Cyrene as an
+attendant — Buy two horses and other necessaries for the journey —
+Manner in which auctions are conducted — Camels procured, with the
+assistance of the Kaimacam — Visit the ancient Necropolis and the
+river Lethe — The unsafe state of the harbour — The loss of a brig
+off the entrance of it — The distance where fresh water is
+procured. — <em>Page</em> 13.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xii">[xii]</span><a href="#c05">CHAPTER V.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">JOURNEY BETWEEN BENGHAZI AND
+CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Leave Benghazi — Rainy and stormy weather — Arrive
+at Gŭsr Merdj, and hospitality of the Mudir — Description of the
+Plain and Castle — Resume our journey through a beautiful country,
+abounding in game — Encamp at Gŭsr Biligadem — Arrive at Cyrene,
+and select a tomb near the Fountain of Apollo for our residence —
+Our workmen try to desert at Merdj. — <em>Page</em> 18.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c06">CHAPTER
+VI.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">The native name of Cyrene — The position of the
+ruins, with the configuration of the country — The Fountain of
+Apollo — General description of the Necropolis — A detailed account
+of the different kinds of tombs — The present aspect of the city —
+The ancient roads to Apollonia and along the Wady Bil Ghadir —
+Picturesque grandeur of the Wady Mûchgûn. — <em>Page</em> 25.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c07">CHAPTER
+VII.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXCAVATIONS.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Visit from Mohammed El Adouly — Commence the
+excavations at two tombs in the Wady Bil Ghadir — These not proving
+successful, remove the men to a temple near the southern gate of
+the city — Discover the statue of Bacchus — The novel mode of
+removing it — Subsequent excavations in a building adjoining a
+theatre, and afterwards in the Temple of Apollo — Discover the
+colossal statue of Apollo; supposed statue of Hadrian; head of
+Minerva; the portrait-head of Cnæus Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus,
+with its pedestal and inscription; a bronze portrait-head; Jupiter
+Ammon; a group representing the nymph Cyrene strangling a lion;
+Diana Venatrix — Description of the temple. — <em>Page</em> 38.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c08">CHAPTER
+VIII.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">EMBARKATION OF THE STATUES ON BOARD
+THE <em>ASSURANCE</em>.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Examination of the country between Cyrene and the
+coast — Arrival of H.M.S. <em>Assurance</em> — Obliged to anchor
+off Ras El Hilal, on account of the weather — The next day steams
+to Marsa Sousah, and disembarks the waggons and stores — Several
+camels collected to take the stores up to Cyrene — Trouble with the
+Arabs before they start — The waggons are obliged to be taken to
+pieces, and carried up the Augubah on men’s shoulders —
+Difficulties of taking the waggons across the country and the
+descent of the Augubah — They are successively taken to the beach,
+embarked on board the <em>Assurance</em>, and the vessel leaves for
+Malta. — <em>Page</em> 44.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c09">CHAPTER
+IX.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">DEALINGS WITH THE ARABS.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">The position of the Zauyah — Threatening messages
+sent from the Achwani and their shiekh, “Sidi Mustapha” — The Arabs
+attempt to prevent our passing, and a number of our stores stolen
+by them — Appeal to the Mudir of Ghegheb for assistance, and the
+way it was given — The two culprits are apprehended with great
+formality, and quietly allowed to escape a few days afterwards —
+The Mudir is dismissed for his conduct — Osman Aga, the
+Bash-Cavass, is sent to our assistance — Our reputation as doctors,
+and the curious application of the fair sex for keteebus — The
+wandering habits and mode of life of the Bedouins — Forms of
+salutation — Habit of swearing — Universal use of firearms. —
+<em>Page</em> 48.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xiii">[xiii]</span><a href="#c10">CHAPTER X.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">VISIT TO THE OTHER TOWNS OF THE
+PENTAPOLIS.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">The ruins of Apollonia and its harbour — Visit
+Imghurnis, and on our second visit badly received by the Arabs —
+Excursion to Derna — Pass the ruins of Gabiout Younes, Tirt,
+Lamloudeh, and Beit Thamr on our way — Reside with M. de Fremeaux,
+the Vice-Consul — Visited on our arrival by the Mudir and
+Kologhassi — The beauty of the little town of Derna — Its luxurious
+gardens and abundance of water — The anchorage of Sousah Hamema —
+Longer journey to Teuchira and Ptolemais — Pass by Gŭsr Biligadem,
+Libiar Il Gharib, and Merdj — The present state of Teuchira —
+Arrival at Ptolemais — The great gateway in the western wall still
+standing, and a number of enormous reservoirs in the centre of the
+city — Large tomb to the westward of it — Miss the road on our
+return to Merdj — Hospitably received there again by the Mudir —
+Return to Cyrene — Serious disturbance between the Arabs of the
+Haasa tribe and the Mudir of Ghegheb — The castle attacked during
+the night, the shiekhs liberated, and a number of men killed — They
+appeal to us for assistance — The waterworks at Safsaf. —
+<em>Page</em> 57.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c11">CHAPTER
+XI.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">CONTINUATION OF THE EXCAVATIONS.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">The large temple near the Stadium — A few
+inscriptions found in it, but all the sculpture wantonly destroyed
+— Visit of H.M.S. <em>Scourge</em>, bringing Mr. W. Denison, a
+carpenter sent by the British Museum — Celebration of the festival
+of the Melood — Proceed to Derna in the <em>Scourge</em>, and
+return by land — Smith visits Benghazi to obtain workmen and money
+— One of the negroes stolen by the Arabs — The smaller temple near
+the Stadium — Statue of Minerva — The immediate neighbourhood of
+the Temple of Apollo — Several inscriptions, statues, and heads of
+different sizes discovered here — A seated Egyptian figure,
+colossal female statue, nude statue of Bacchus, &amp;c. — A palace,
+in which were found the torso of a Roman emperor in armour, a large
+female draped statue, busts of Antoninus Pius, Marcus Aurelius, a
+female bust, three heads, and three inscriptions — Make a road down
+the Augubah, and improve the road between Cyrene and the coast —
+The Temple of Venus — Large quantity of sculpture found in it:
+Venus Euploia, and another Venus with Cupid by her side seated on a
+dolphin, Pan, Aristæus, three female busts with curious
+head-dresses, heads of Minerva and Perseus, and a slab of marble in
+relief of Cyrene strangling a lion. — <em>Page</em> 71.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href="#c12">CHAPTER
+XII.</a>
+</p>
+
+<p class="center less sect2">FINAL EMBARKATION.</p>
+
+<p class="csum">Arrival of H.M.S. <em>Melpomene</em> — A large
+party of men are landed from the ship, and start for Cyrene with
+three waggons — Serious disturbance with the Arabs — The means
+taken to preserve peace — All the sculptures are successively
+embarked — We finally leave Cyrene, and arrive at Malta. —
+<em>Page</em> 78.</p>
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1"><a href=
+"#c13">CONCLUSION.</a>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<p class="center letter-spaced01 sect1">APPENDICES.</p>
+
+<p class="csum"><a href="#app1">No. I.</a> (contributed by Dr. C.
+<span class="sc">Schroff</span>). — The Thapsia Garganica —
+Difference between the properties of this plant and the Silphium of
+the Ancients. — <em>Page</em> 87.</p>
+
+<p class="csum"><a href="#app2">No. II.</a> — Description of the
+Sculptures found at Cyrene. — <em>Page</em> 91.</p>
+
+<p class="csum"><a href="#app3">No. III.</a> — List of Sculptures
+found on various sites at Cyrene. — <em>Page</em> 99.</p>
+
+<p class="csum"><a href="#app4">No. IV.</a> — Inscriptions
+discovered or found at Cyrene. — <em>Page</em> 109.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xv">[xv]</span><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">ILLUSTRATION</span>S.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width10">
+
+<table class="toi">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="3" class="tdl hang1"><a href=
+"#i00">FRONTISPIECE.</a>—EASTERN END OF THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF
+CYRENE.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr med">PLATE.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i01">1.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">GENERAL MAP OF THE CYRENAICA</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">6</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i02">2.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TRIPOLI</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i03">3.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">BENGHAZI</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">14</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i04">4.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">AMOR BON ABDI SEYAT AND SHEIKH
+BOCHLEGA</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">14</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i05">5.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">SUPPOSED ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER LETHE</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">16</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i06">6.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">CASTLE AND VILLAGE OF MERDJ (BARCA)</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i07">7.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">MUDIR’S ROOM IN THE CASTLE OF MERDJ</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">21</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i08">8.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">ENCAMPMENT NEAR A ROMAN FORTRESS (GUSR
+BILIGADEM)</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">22</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i09">9.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INTERIOR OF OUR TOMB OF RESIDENCE</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">23</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i10">10.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">OUR WORKMEN—SALEH, MOHAMMED, AND
+ABDULLAH</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">24</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i11">11.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">WESTERN HILL OF CYRENE, WITH ENTRANCE TO
+THE FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">25</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i12">12.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">26</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i13">13.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">GENERAL VIEW OF ONE OF THE HILLS IN THE
+NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">27</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i14">14.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">LARGE TOMB AT THE EASTERN END OF THE
+NORTHERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">27</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i15">15.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">23</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i16">16.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">RANGE OF TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">28</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i17">17.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INTERIOR OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">29</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i18">18.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TOMBS TO THE WESTWARD OF WADY BIL
+GHADIR</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">29</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i19">19.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">A TOMB EMBELLISHED WITH FIGURES IN THE
+NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">30</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i20">20.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TOMB FOR 105 SARCOPHAGI IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">30</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i21">21.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INTERIOR OF A PAINTED TOMB IN THE
+NORTHERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">31</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i22">22.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INTERIOR OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">31</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i23">23.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INTERIOR OF A TOMB CUT IN THE SIDE OF A
+QUARRY IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">32</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i24">24.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INTERIOR OF A LARGE TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">32</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i25">25.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">33</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i26">26.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TOMBS (CALLED BY THE ARABS “KINISSIEH”)
+IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">33</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i27">27.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">LARGE TOMB ON THE FACE OF THE WESTERN
+HILL OF CYRENE</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">34</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i28">28.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">BUILT TOMB ON THE SOUTH-WEST SIDE OF
+CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">34</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i29">29.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">RUINS OF THE CHRISTIAN CITY OF
+CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">35</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i30">30.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">WADY MUCHGUN, TWO MILES TO THE WESTWARD
+OF CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i31">31.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF AN ORNAMENTED AND PAINTED TOMB IN
+THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i32">32.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF A TOMB FOR 105 SARCOPHAGI IN THE
+NORTHERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i33">33.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i34">34.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i35">35.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF A LARGE TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i36">36.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF A BUILT TOMB ON THE SOUTH-WEST
+SIDE OF CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i37">37.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">ELEVATION OF THE INTERNAL FAÇADE OF A
+TOMB IN THE WESTERN NECROPOLIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">36</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i38">38.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TOMBS ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF WADY BIL
+GHADIR</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">37</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i39">39.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">MOHAMMED EL ADOULY</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">38</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i40">40.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF THE CITY OF CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">38</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_xvi">[xvi]</span><a href="#i41">41.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF THE CITY OF CYRENE, TO SHOW THE
+POSITIONS FROM WHICH THE PLANS AND SKETCHES WERE MADE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">40</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i42">42.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INTERIOR OF MOHAMMED EL ADOULY’S
+TENT</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">54</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i43">43.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">ARAB ARMS OF THE CYRENAICA</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">55</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i44">44.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">WADY LEBAIATH, BETWEEN CYRENE AND
+APOLLONIA</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">57</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i45">45.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">EASTERN CITY WALL AND RUINS OF
+APOLLONIA</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">57</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i46">46.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">RUINS OF IMGHERNIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">58</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i47">47.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">DERNA</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">60</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i48">48.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">CASTLE OF DERNA</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">61</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i49">49.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">ARAB CAMP NEAR TEUCHIRA</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">64</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i50">50.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">RUINS OF PTOLEMAIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">64</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i51">51.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">GATEWAY IN THE WESTERN WALL OF
+PTOLEMAIS</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">66</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i52">52.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">TOMBS TO THE WESTWARD OF PTOLEMAIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">66</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i53">53.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF A CONSPICUOUS BUILT TOMB TO THE
+WESTWARD OF PTOLEMAIS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">66</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i54">54.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">INSCRIPTIONS OVER THE ENTRANCES TO THE
+TOMBS AT PTOLEMAIS</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">67</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i55">55.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF THE LARGE TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM
+AT CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">71</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i56">56.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF THE SMALLER TEMPLE NEAR THE
+STADIUM AT CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">74</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i57">57.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">PLAN OF THE TEMPLE OF VENUS SITUATED TO
+THE SOUTH-WEST OF THE TEMPLE OF BACCHUS</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>Ditto</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">76</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i58">58.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">ENCAMPMENT OF THE PARTY FROM H.M.S.
+MELPOMENE, NEAR THE HEAD OF THE AUGUBAH</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">81</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i59">59.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">CENTRAL WADY AND SLOPE OF THE EASTERN
+HILL OF CYRENE</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot"><em>To face page</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">82</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i60">60.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">THAPSIA GARGANICA</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">87</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="decor width6">
+
+<p class="center"><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">PHOTOGRAPH</span>S.</p>
+
+<table class="toi">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr med">PLATE.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i61">61.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">BACCHUS.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i62">62.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">APOLLO CITHARŒDUS.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i63">63.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">THE EMPEROR HADRIAN.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i64">64.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">MINERVA AND A MALE HEAD.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i65">65.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">CNÆUS CORNELIUS LENTULUS MARCELLINUS
+(PROPRÆTOR OF CYRENE).</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i66">66.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">BRONZE ICONIC HEAD.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i67">67.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">APHRODITE AND FEMALE TORSO.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i68">68.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">ICONIC FEMALE STATUE.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i69">69.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">BUST OF THE EMPEROR ANTONINUS PIUS.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i70">70.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">BUST OF THE EMPEROR MARCUS AURELIUS.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i71">71.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">APHRODITE EUPLOIA.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i72">72.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">APHRODITE AND EROS.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i73">73.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">ICONIC FEMALE FIGURE.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i74">74.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">FEMALE BUST OF ROMAN PERIOD.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i75">75.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">HEAD OF PERSEUS.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i76">76.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">THE NYMPH CYRENE OVERCOMING A LION, AND
+BEING CROWNED BY LIBYA.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="decor width6">
+
+<p class="center"><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">INSCRIPTION</span>S.</p>
+
+<table class="toi">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr med">PLATE.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i77">77.</a>
+</td>
+<td>Containing numbers</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">1 to 5</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i78">78.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">6</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i79">79.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">6 „ 7</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i80">80.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">8 „ 11</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i81">81.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">12 „ 14</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i82">82.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">15 „ 17</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i83">83.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">18 „ 23</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i84">84.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">24 „ 26</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i85">85.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">27 „ 28</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr-top"><a href="#i86">86.</a>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 word-spaced10">Ditto ditto</td>
+<td class="tdc-bot">29 „ 32</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><a id="err"></a>ERRATA</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor width2">
+
+<table class="tless" id="terr">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4">In General Map of the Cyrenaica, facing page 6,
+place a line under Apollonia for the ancient name.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="width8"><a href="#Page_10">Page 10,</a> line</td>
+<td class="tdr width1">8</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Caimakam,</td>
+<td><em>read</em> Kaimakam.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Page_25">Page 25,</a> line</td>
+<td class="tdr">3</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Grenuah,</td>
+<td><em>read</em> Grennah.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Page_37">Page 37,</a> line</td>
+<td class="tdr">5</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Mûchqûn,</td>
+<td><em>read</em> Mûchgûn.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Page_54">Page 54,</a> line</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td><em>for</em> El Douly’s,</td>
+<td><em>read</em> El Adouly’s (<em>under the woodcut</em>).</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Page_71">Page 71,</a> line</td>
+<td class="tdr">39</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Plate 6,</td>
+<td><em>read</em> Plates 78, 79, No. 6.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Page_71">Page 71,</a> line</td>
+<td class="tdr">40</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Plate 8,</td>
+<td><em>read</em> Plate 79, No 7.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<p class="center pb space-above xlarge"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_1">[1]</span><span class="letter-spaced02">DISCOVERIES AT
+CYREN</span>E.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width12">
+
+<h2 class="nopb letter-spaced01"><a id="c01"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">BEFORE beginning the narrative of our expedition to
+the Cyrenaica, we shall recall, for the convenience of the reader,
+a few of the leading facts connected with the history of that
+country.</p>
+
+<p>Accounts, more or less detailed, of the origin and progress of
+the Greek colony, of which Cyrene was the capital, are given by
+Herodotus, Strabo, Sallust, &amp;c. In modern times these
+fragmentary and often contradictory accounts have been carefully
+collated and examined by the learned Dane, Thrige, in his work
+entitled “Historia Cyrenes, Havniæ, 1819.” The subsequent great
+work of Mr. Grote, and the several articles relating to Cyrene in
+Dr. William Smith’s Classical Dictionaries, contain everything of
+importance that the learned criticism of those distinguished
+scholars has been able to authenticate regarding the history of the
+Pentapolis. We have, therefore, with Dr. Smith’s kind permission,
+compiled the following compendium from the articles
+<em>Cyrene</em>, <em>Cyrenaica</em>, <em>Thera</em>,
+<em>Battus</em>, &amp;c., in the Dictionaries of Classical
+Geography and Biography.</p>
+
+<p>The Cyrenaica or Pentapolis was the name of an extensive tract
+of country in the North of Africa, bounded on the east and west by
+the respective territories of Egypt and Carthage, and on the north
+and south by the Mediterranean and the Desert. The name
+<em>Cyrenaica</em> was derived from the capital city, Cyrene, and
+properly denoted the country as a whole; while <em>Pentapolis</em>
+was a collective name given to the five great cities of Cyrene,
+Barca, Teuchira, Hesperides, and Apollonia, with their several
+territories and dependencies. The Romans, therefore, who looked
+upon the country as a single province of the empire, called it
+Cyrenaica; whereas, in the time of the Ptolemies, when the country
+was practically a confederacy of separate colonies, it was
+generally known by the federal name of Pentapolis.</p>
+
+<p>Cyrene, the capital of this country, and the most important
+Hellenic colony in Africa, was founded in B.C. 631, by a body of
+Dorian colonists from Thera (Santorin), an island in the Ægean Sea
+belonging to Sparta. Battus, the leader of this band of colonists,
+was the son of Polymnestus, a Theræan noble, his mother, according
+to some accounts, being a Cretan princess. Considerable doubt
+exists regarding the origin of his name: Herodotus believes that it
+was the Libyan word for “king,” while others suppose it to have
+been derived from βατταρίζω, and to have been expressive of an
+alleged impediment in his speech. No less doubt is there as to the
+cause which led to the colonization of Cyrene. According to the
+account of the Cyrenæans, as given by Herodotus, Battus, having
+gone to consult the Delphic oracle about the removal of the
+physical defect above mentioned, was enjoined to lead a colony into
+Libya; while the story of the Theræans, as recorded in the same
+author, was, that this injunction was laid on their king, Grinus,
+and that he pointed to Battus as a younger and fitter man for the
+purpose. According, again, to a fragment from the
+historian<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> Menecles,
+preserved by Tzetzes, and the scholiast to Pindar,<a id=
+"FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>
+Battus was driven forth from Thera by civil war, and was ordered by
+Apollo not to return to his country, but to betake himself to the
+continent. Justin gives a strange mixture of the two stories in
+Herodotus with the fable of Apollo’s love for the nymph Cyrene.
+Amidst these conflicting statements, the one certain is, that
+Battus led forth his colonists in obedience to the Delphic oracle,
+and under a belief in the protection of Apollo.</p>
+
+<p>Sailing to the then almost unknown shores of Libya, Battus and
+his followers took possession of the island of Platea, in the Gulf
+of Bomba, which they seem to have mistaken for the mainland. Hence,
+after two years of suffering, and after again consulting the
+oracle, they removed to the opposite shore, and resided in the
+well-wooded district of Aziris for six years, at the end of which
+time some of the native Libyans persuaded them to leave it for a
+better locality, and conducted them through the region of Irasa to
+the actual site of Cyrene. Though Irasa was deemed so delectable a
+region that the Libyan guides were said to have led the Greeks
+through it in the night lest they should settle there, the spot at
+which their journey ended was scarcely inferior for beauty and
+fertility to any on the surface of the globe.</p>
+
+<p>The site of Cyrene was in the territory of the Libyan tribe
+named Asbystæ, and with them the Greek settlers seem from the first
+to have been on terms of friendship very similar to those which
+subsisted between the Carthaginians and their Libyan neighbours.
+The Greeks had the immense advantage of commanding the abundant
+springs and fertile meadows, to which the Libyans were compelled to
+resort when the supplies of the less-favoured regions further
+inland began to fail. A close connection soon grew up between the
+natives and the Greek settlers; and not only did the former imitate
+the customs of the latter, but the two races coalesced to a much
+greater extent than was usual in such cases. It is very important
+to bear in mind that the population of Cyrene had a very large
+admixture of Libyan blood by the marriages of the early settlers
+with Libyan wives. The native Libyans, however, were altogether
+excluded from political power, which was in the hands exclusively
+of the descendants from the original settlers, or rather of those
+of them who had already been among the ruling class in the mother
+state of Thera.</p>
+
+<p>The dynasty of the Battiadæ lasted during the greater part of
+two centuries, from B.C. 630 to somewhere between 460 and 430; and
+comprised eight kings, bearing the names of Battus and Arcesilaus
+alternately. After the foundation of Cyrene, little is known of
+Battus I. He appears to have been vigorous and successful in
+surmounting the difficulties which beset the infant colony, in
+making most of the natural advantages of the country, and in
+subjugating the native tribes. He governed with mildness and
+moderation, and executed various public works, of which the most
+celebrated was the road which he made for the sacred procession to
+the temple of Apollo. His subjects worshipped him as a hero, and
+dedicated a statue of him at Delphi, representing him in a chariot,
+driven by the nymph Cyrene, with Libya in the act of crowning
+him.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing of importance is recorded in the reign of his son,
+Arcesilaus I., about B.C. 590-574; but that of his successor,
+Battus II., marks the most important period of the monarchy. In
+this reign, Cyrene received a great accession of strength by the
+influx of a large number of colonists from various parts of Greece,
+principally, perhaps, from Peloponnesus, and from Crete and the
+other islands, whom the State invited over under the promise of a
+new division of lands (probably to enable herself to make head
+against the neighbouring Libyans), and who were further urged to
+the migration by the Delphic oracle. This influx apparently giving
+rise to further encroachments on the Libyan tribes, the latter,
+under Adicran, their king, surrendered themselves to Apries, king
+of Egypt, and claimed his protection. A battle ensued in the region
+of Irasa, B.C. 570, in which the Egyptians were defeated—this being
+the first time, according to Herodotus, that they had ever come
+into hostile collision with Greeks. This battle seems to have
+finished the war with Egypt;<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_3">[3]</span> for we read that Amasis, the successor of
+Apries, married Ladice, a Cyrenæan woman of the house of Battus. By
+the same victory, too, the sovereignty of Cyrene over the Libyans
+was confirmed. It was also most probably in this reign that Cyrene
+began to occupy the neighbouring region with her colonies.</p>
+
+<p>The misfortunes of the monarchy began in the reign of Arcesilaus
+II., surnamed the “Oppressive,” about B.C. 554-544. By attempting
+to subvert the constitution and establish a despotism, he caused a
+revolt of the Libyan Periœci. His brothers, Perseus, Zacynthus,
+Aristomedon, and Lycus, who instigated this rebellion, withdrew
+from Cyrene, and founded the city of Barca. In his attempt to quell
+the insurrection, Arcesilaus was signally defeated in a battle
+fought at Leucon or Leucoë, in Marmarica, in which 7,000 of his
+soldiers were slain. He was afterwards treacherously killed by his
+own brother Learchus. The intestine troubles of Cyrene during the
+latter part of his reign, gave the inhabitants of the new city of
+Barca an opportunity of extending their power over the whole of the
+west part of the Cyrenaica, including the district on the coast (as
+far as Hesperides), where we find the important post of Teuchira
+belonging to them. According to Servius, they carried their arms on
+land far west over the region of the Syrtes, towards Carthage, and
+acquired such a maritime power as to defeat the Phœnicians in a
+naval battle.</p>
+
+<p>Battus III., or the “Lame,” son of Arcesilaus II., reigned from
+about B.C. 544 to 529. During his reign, the Cyrenæans, under the
+advice of the Delphic oracle, called in the aid of Demonax, a
+Mantineian, who drew up for them a new constitution, by which the
+encroachments of the royal house on the people were more than
+recovered, and the king was reduced to political insignificance,
+retaining, however, the landed domain as his private property, and
+also his sacerdotal functions. The political power, in which it
+would seem none but the descendants of the original colonists had
+any share, was now extended to the whole Greek population, who were
+divided by Demonax into three tribes: (1) the Theræans, who still
+retained the native Periœci; (2) Greeks from Peloponnesus and
+Crete; (3) Greeks from the other islands of the Ægean. A senate was
+also constituted, of which the king appears to have been president.
+In other respects, the constitution seems to have resembled that of
+Sparta, which was, through Thera, the original metropolis of
+Cyrene.</p>
+
+<p>Pheretime, the widow of Battus III., and mother of his
+successor, Arcesilaus III., joined with her son in an attempt to
+overturn the new constitution of Demonax. Their first efforts were
+unsuccessful, and they were driven from Cyrene; but Arcesilaus, who
+had taken refuge in Samos, returned with a fresh band of colonists,
+chiefly from Ionia, took Cyrene, and executed cruel vengeance on
+his opponents. He endeavoured to strengthen his position by making
+submission to Cambyses, king of Persia. From a superstitious fear
+of the woe denounced against him by an oracle for his cruelty in
+the hour of success, or, perhaps, driven out of the city by his
+subjects, he fled to his father-in-law, Alazir, king of Barca.
+There, certain exiles from Cyrene, uniting with the Barcæans,
+attacked both kings in the market-place, and killed them. His
+mother, Pheretime, thereupon applied for aid to Aryandes, who had
+been appointed Satrap of Egypt by Cambyses. Aryandes, who welcomed
+this opportunity of effecting the conquest of Libya, collected a
+powerful army and fleet; but, before commencing hostilities, he
+sent a herald to Barca, demanding to know who had slain Arcesilaus.
+The Barcæans, having collectively taken the act upon themselves,
+the desired pretext was gained, and Aryandes despatched the
+expedition. After a siege of nine months, the city was at last
+taken by treachery, and given over to the brutal revenge of
+Pheretime. Those of the citizens who were supposed to have had most
+share in her son’s death she impaled all round the circuit of the
+walls, on which she fixed as bosses the breasts of their wives.
+Those who were clearly guiltless of the murder were allowed to
+remain in the city, but the rest of the inhabitants were sent to
+Persia, where Darius settled them in a village of Bactria, still
+called Barca in the time of Herodotus. After the siege of Barca,
+Pheretime<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> retired with
+the Persian army to Egypt, where, according to Herodotus, she died
+of a loathsome disease, for having “provoked the jealousy of the
+gods by the excessive indulgence of revenge.” Regarding her
+history, the following remark is made by Grote:—“It will be
+recollected that in the veins of this savage woman the Libyan blood
+was mixed with the Grecian. Political enmity in Greece proper
+kills, but seldom, if ever, mutilates or sheds the blood of
+women.”</p>
+
+<p>The Persians ravaged great part of the country, and extended
+their conquests as far as Hesperides; and though they were even
+inclined to attack Cyrene on their way back to Egypt, they left the
+city unmolested. The result of the victory of Arcesilaus and
+Pheretime was the overthrow of the equitable constitution
+established by Demonax.</p>
+
+<p>Of Battus IV., the successor of Arcesilaus III., nothing is
+known, except that he was surnamed the “Handsome.”</p>
+
+<p>Arcesilaus IV., the last of the kings of Cyrene, is the prince
+whose victory in the Pythian Games, B.C. 466, is celebrated by
+Pindar. From his odes, it also appears that Arcesilaus IV.
+endeavoured to make himself despotic, by getting rid of the nobles
+of the state. It is probable that the city Hesperides was founded
+by him, with the view of securing a retreat for himself in the
+event of a successful rebellion of his subjects. It is not known
+whether he died by violence or not; but after his death royalty was
+abolished, and his son, Battus, who had fled to Hesperides, was
+there murdered, and his head was thrown into the sea,—a significant
+symbol of the utter extinction of the dynasty. This was probably
+about B.C. 450.</p>
+
+<p>Of the condition of the new republic we have very little
+information. As to its basis, we are only told that the number of
+tribes and phratriæ was increased; and as to its working, that the
+constant increase of the democratic element led to violent party
+contests, in the course of which, various tyrants obtained power in
+the state; among whom are named Ariston and Nicocrates. When
+Alexander the Great invaded Egypt, the Cyrenæans made an alliance
+with him, and after his death their whole territory was made
+subject to Egypt by Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, B.C. 321. The
+country appears to have flourished under the Ptolemies, who pursued
+their usual policy of raising new cities at the expense of the
+ancient ones, or restoring the latter under new names. Thus
+Hesperides became Berenice; Teuchira was called Arsinöe; Barca was
+entirely eclipsed by its port, which was raised into a city under
+the name of Ptolemais; and Cyrene herself began to decay in
+consequence of the favours bestowed upon its port Apollonia. After
+these changes, <em>Pentapolis</em> became the common name of the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>The last king of the Egyptian dynasty, Apion, an illegitimate
+son of Ptolemy Physcon (on whose death, in B.C. 117, he had
+obtained the government), left the country to the Romans by his
+testament in the year B.C. 95. At first, the Romans granted the
+cities their freedom, and bestowed upon them their former royal
+domain, only exacting a tribute; but quarrels soon broke out
+between the different states, and after Lucullus had made, by order
+of Sylla, a vain attempt to reconcile them, the Romans applied
+their usual last remedy, and reduced the country to a province,
+under the name of Cyrenaica (probably in B.C. 75), which was united
+with Crete on the conquest of that island in B.C. 67. In the
+division of the provinces under Augustus, the united province,
+under the name of Creta-Cyrene, Creta et Cyrene, or Creta simply,
+was constituted a senatorial province under the government of a
+proprætor, with the title of proconsul, who had a legatus and one,
+if not two, quæstors. Under Constantine, Crete and Cyrenaica were
+made separate provinces, the latter being called Libya Superior,
+and placed under the government of a Præses. It should be observed,
+that under the Romans the eastern boundary of the province, which
+divided it from Marmarica, was formed by an imaginary line drawn
+southwards from Axylis, a town somewhat to the west of the
+Chersonesus Magna.</p>
+
+<p>The decline of the country in prosperity may be dated chiefly
+from the reign of Trajan, when the Jews, large numbers of whom had
+settled there under the Ptolemies, rose in
+insurrection,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> massacred
+220,000 Romans and Cyrenæans, and were put down with great
+difficulty and much slaughter. The loss of population during these
+bloody conflicts, and the increasing weakness of the whole empire,
+left the province an easy prey to the Libyan barbarians, whose
+attacks were aided by the ravages of locusts, plagues, and
+earthquakes. The sufferings of the Pentapolis from these causes, in
+the beginning of the fifth century, are pathetically described by
+Synesius, the bishop of Ptolemais, in an extant oration and in
+various passages of his letters; and at a later period by
+Procopius. In A.D. 616, the Persian Chosroes overthrew the remains
+of the Greek colonies so utterly, as to leave only the gleanings of
+the harvest of destruction to the Arab conquerors, who finally
+overran the country A.D. 647.—(Gibbon, <span class=
+"sc2">VIII</span>. 227, and <span class="sc2">IX</span>. 444.)</p>
+
+<p>At the height of its prosperity, Cyrene possessed an extensive
+commerce with Greece and Egypt, especially in the medical drug
+called Silphium: with Carthage its relations were always on a
+footing of great distrust, and its commerce on the west frontier
+was conducted entirely by smuggling. At what period its dominion
+over the Libyan tribes was extended so far as to meet that of
+Carthage at the bottom of the Greater Syrtis is disputed, some
+authorities referring it to the republican age, others to the
+period of the Ptolemies. Regarding the manner in which this
+boundary was settled, the following romantic story is told by
+Sallust:—</p>
+
+<p>“The indefinite nature of the boundary between the territories
+of Carthage and Cyrene was the cause of many wars between them.
+After various alternate successes and defeats, they entered into
+the following agreement,—that certain persons deputed by each state
+should leave their home on an appointed day, and that the place
+where the parties might meet should be considered as the boundary
+of the kingdoms.</p>
+
+<p>“Two brothers, named Philæni, were appointed on the part of
+Carthage, who contrived to travel faster than the deputies from
+Cyrene; but whether this was occasioned by accident or the
+indolence of the Cyrenæans, I have not been able to ascertain.
+Stormy weather might undoubtedly occasion delays in such a country,
+as well as it is known to do at sea; for when violent winds prevail
+in level and barren tracts, the sand which is raised by them is
+driven so forcibly into the faces and eyes of those who cross them,
+that their progress is considerably impeded. So soon as the people
+of Cyrene were aware of the ground which they had lost, and
+reflected on the punishment which would await them in consequence
+on their return, they began to accuse the Carthaginians of having
+set out before the appointed time; and when a dispute arose on the
+subject, they determined to brave everything rather than return
+home defeated. In this state of affairs, the Carthaginians desired
+the Greeks to name some conditions of accommodation; and when the
+latter proposed that the deputies from Carthage should either be
+buried on the spot which they claimed as the boundary, or allow
+them to advance as far as they chose on the same conditions, the
+Philæni immediately accepted the terms, and, giving themselves up
+to the service of their country, were buried alive on the spot
+where the dispute had occurred. On the same spot, two altars (Aræ
+Philænorum) were consecrated to their memory by the people of
+Carthage, and other honours were also decreed to them at home.”</p>
+
+<p>By a comparison of the accounts of Ptolemy, Strabo, Pliny, and
+Mela, the Aræ Philænorum appear to have been situated near the
+bottom of the Greater Syrtis. At the time of Hannibal’s expedition
+to Italy, B.C. 217, they formed the eastern boundary of the
+Carthaginian territory.—(See Beechey, p. 220.)</p>
+
+<p>Cyrene held a distinguished place in the records of Hellenic
+science. As early as the time of Herodotus, it was celebrated for
+its physicians: it gave its name to a philosophic sect founded by
+one of its sons, Aristippus; another, Carneades, was the founder of
+the Third or New Academy at Athens; and it was also the birthplace
+of Eratosthenes, who may be called the founder of astronomy, and
+who raised geography to the rank of a science; of the poet
+Callimachus, who boasted a descent from the royal house of Battus;
+and of the eloquent rhetorician Synesius, who afterwards became
+Bishop of Ptolemais.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>The portion of the
+Cyrenaica actually occupied by the Greek colonists—viz., from the
+Boreum Promontorium on the west to the Chersonesus Magna on the
+east—was, in respect of position, formation, climate, and soil, one
+of the most delightful regions on the surface of the globe. Its
+centre is occupied by a moderately elevated table-land, whose edge
+runs parallel to the coast, to which it sinks down in a succession
+of terraces, clothed with verdure, intersected by mountain streams
+running through ravines filled with the richest vegetation, well
+watered by the frequent rains in winter, and sheltered by the mass
+of the mountain from the sands and hot winds of the Sahara. The
+various terraces enjoyed a great diversity of climates, and
+produced a corresponding variety of flowers, vegetables, and
+fruits; and the successive harvests, at the different elevations,
+lasted for eight months out of the twelve. The table-land extends
+some seventy or eighty miles in breadth between the Sahara and the
+coast, but it is only on its N. and N.W. slopes that it enjoys the
+physical advantages now described.</p>
+
+<p>Among its products were corn, oil, wine; all kinds of fruit,
+especially dates, figs, and almonds; cucumbers, truffles, cabbage,
+box, and saffron; flowers, especially roses, from which exquisite
+perfumes were extracted; and, above all, the plant for which the
+country was especially celebrated,—viz., silphium or
+laserpitium,—which produced the valuable article of commerce
+already referred to. The district was also famous for its honey,
+its ostriches, and its horses, large studs of which were kept at
+Cyrene and at Barca.</p>
+
+<p>Of the more recent history of the Cyrenaica there is little to
+be related. In consequence of the Arab occupation, the whole
+country relapsed into a state of barbarism, from which it has never
+emerged, the only important event in its history being its conquest
+by the Turks under Solyman the Magnificent, who took its modern
+capital, Tripoli, in 1551. Since that date, as part of Tripoli, it
+has formed a nominal portion of the Ottoman empire, owning a
+greater or less degree of subjection to the authority of the
+Sultan. Soon after its conquest by Solyman, it gradually fell, like
+Egypt, Tunis, and Algiers, into the power of an hereditary dynasty
+of Beys, who were all but independent of the Turkish government. In
+1808, when this dynasty was expelled by Sultan Mahmoud, the state
+of Tripoli became a mere province or Pachalik, which has ever since
+been regarded as an integral portion of the Sultan’s dominions.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i01">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENAICA.<br>
+CORRECTED FROM THE SURVEYS OF<br>
+CAP<sup>TS</sup>. SMYTH BEECHEY & SPRATT R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 1.</p>
+<a href="images/i01_large.jpg"><img src='images/i01.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_7">[7]</span><a id="c02"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">FROM the short sketch of the ancient history of
+Cyrene given in the last chapter, the reader will be at no loss to
+discover the reasons which led us to undertake an expedition, for
+the purpose of examining the ruins of that distinguished city. The
+simple fact of its having been the capital of a flourishing Greek
+colony, afforded presumptive evidence of the existence of
+interesting and valuable remains; and the absence of any stationary
+population on its site, after the date of the Arab conquest,
+favoured the hope that such remains would be found in a
+comparatively perfect condition.</p>
+
+<p>In many places, such as Athens, Rome, Halicarnassus, Rhodes,
+&amp;c., the great obstacle to the recovery of the objects of
+ancient art, that lie buried among the ruins, is the occupation of
+the sites by modern towns. Where such occupation has been
+uninterrupted, the probability of the existence of extensive
+remains is, moreover, greatly diminished; inasmuch as the
+successive generations of inhabitants have not unfrequently made
+use of the materials of the ancient city in the construction of
+their own buildings, and wantonly destroyed the statues and other
+sculptures, as relics of Pagan idolatry.</p>
+
+<p>In the case of Cyrene, however, it was almost certain that the
+site of the city had been unoccupied for upwards of 1,000 years; so
+that it was highly probable that whatever sculptures and other
+remains had escaped destruction at the hands of the early
+Christians and first Arab conquerors, must soon have been hid from
+view by a luxuriant vegetation, and, except in the most elevated
+situations, become gradually buried beneath the surface of the
+soil. From such considerations it was to be concluded, <em>à
+priori</em>, that many remains of the ancient Cyrene were still in
+existence,—a conclusion confirmed by the testimony of all the
+travellers who had visited the actual site.</p>
+
+<p>Although there were thus sufficient grounds for regarding Cyrene
+as a good field for excavation, there were circumstances peculiar
+to its position and the present condition of the country, which
+made it very doubtful whether such excavations could be carried on
+successfully. One great obstacle lay in the fact of its inland
+position in a mountainous country, from which it was to be feared
+that heavy and fragile objects, such as marble statues, could not
+be conveyed to the coast for embarkation, except at excessive cost
+of time, labour, and money. Another no less important consideration
+was the character of the present inhabitants of the country, the
+Bedouins, a fanatical race of wandering Arabs, proverbial for their
+rapacity and violence. Moreover, Cyrene could only be reached by a
+long land journey from Benghazi, or Derna, the only places on the
+coast at which the caravan required for such a journey could be
+procured; and also the only places in the country where the
+authority of the Turkish Government was more than a name.</p>
+
+<p>Before fitting out a regular expedition for the purpose of
+excavating, it was therefore advisable to gain sufficient
+information to form a proximate estimate of the cost and chances of
+success of such an undertaking; and this could only be obtained by
+an actual visit to Cyrene, and a careful examination of the country
+between the city and the coast. It struck me, when stationed at
+Malta, after the close of the expedition to Halicarnassus and
+Cnidus, in which I had been associated with Mr. C. T. Newton, that
+a reconnoitring excursion might be made to the Cyrenaica at little
+or no expense to the Government; the only absolute necessaries for
+its accomplishment being the use of a small vessel for, at most,
+two or three months, the sanction of the Foreign Office, and leave
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> absence from
+military duty. At that time (the spring of 1860) there was a small
+sailing schooner lying in Malta harbour, called the
+<em>Kertch</em>, which, I thought, would answer the purpose
+admirably. A few men from H.M.S. <em>Hibernia</em>, to which she
+was a tender, would be a large enough crew; and being only a
+sailing vessel, she would cost nothing in fuel. I talked over the
+project with Commander Porcher, then Lieutenant of the
+<em>Hibernia</em>, who at once expressed his willingness to join me
+in the undertaking.</p>
+
+<p>Our proposal was to visit the Cyrenaica at our own expense, for
+the purpose of examining the country with a view to a subsequent
+<em>working</em> expedition, provided the Foreign Office sanctioned
+the proceeding, and the Admiralty allowed the <em>Kertch</em> to be
+placed for a short time at our disposal. We thought it desirable to
+have some such vessel, not only to take us to the coast of Barbary,
+but to remain there while we made our journeys inland. She would
+thereby serve as a “base of operations,” and would be of special
+use in the event, which was not unlikely, of our being obliged, by
+the hostility of the Arabs, to beat a hasty retreat.</p>
+
+<p>This proposal I submitted to Sir John Burgoyne,
+Inspector-General of Engineers, and to Mr. Newton, by both of whom
+it was cordially approved of. On their joint recommendation, Lord
+Russell kindly sanctioned the project, applied to the Admiralty for
+the means of carrying it into execution, and furnished us with
+letters of recommendation to her Majesty’s agents in Barbary, and a
+Firman which he had obtained in our favour from the Turkish
+Government. In reply to Lord Russell’s application, the Admiralty
+stated, that as the <em>Kertch</em> was urgently required for other
+services, she could not be given in the way we had suggested; but,
+if his Lordship wished it, that orders would be given to provide us
+with a passage as soon as possible to the coast of the Cyrenaica.
+This offer being accepted, orders were immediately sent to Admiral
+Sir William Martin, Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean fleet,
+to send us to Benghazi, or such other place as we preferred, as
+soon as there was a vessel available for that purpose. We were at
+the same time informed that H.R.H. the Duke of Cambridge, and the
+Duke of Somerset, First Lord of the Admiralty, had been pleased to
+grant us leave of absence for an indefinite period.</p>
+
+<p>The want of a vessel like the <em>Kertch</em>, to remain with us
+during our excursion, caused, of course, a considerable
+modification of our plans. Instead of having our supplies and the
+means of retreat more or less at our own disposal, we should be
+obliged, by the new arrangement, simply to take our chance among
+the Arabs, and get on in the best way we could, the expense at the
+same time being greatly increased. We were thankful, however, for
+what we had got, and began at once to make the necessary
+preparations for the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>On account of the want of harbours on the coast of the
+Cyrenaica, our original intention was to have started in July, and
+to have returned to Malta before the winter. Considerable delay,
+however, took place before a vessel could be had, and it was
+already winter when everything was ready for our departure.</p>
+
+<p>It is always difficult to know what to take on a long journey in
+an uncivilized country. One is apt to forget a number of things
+that are really useful and even indispensable, and perhaps still
+more so, to take a great many that are afterwards only in the way.
+For the benefit of future travellers, therefore, we give the
+following list of our outfit, in which, fortunately, we found
+little that was either superfluous or deficient.</p>
+
+<p><em>Materials, &amp;c.</em>—Two double circular tents complete
+with storm guys and pegs; two small portable wooden trestle
+bedsteads, made to roll up and be carried in waterproof bags; two
+field-hospital cork mattresses (rolling up), two pillows, four
+blankets, and two rugs, all carried in two waterproof bags; two
+iron folding chairs; cooking apparatus, consisting of a large
+saucepan, a kettle, a gridiron, and tea and coffee pots; a few
+knives, forks, and spoons, and some tin dishes, plates, and cups; a
+lantern (talc), and a large supply of candles and lucifer matches;
+a few simple medicines,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span>
+some lint, sticking plaster, an axe, two small hatchets, two saws,
+six spades and pickaxes, a crowbar, a coil of 1½-inch rope, a ball
+of whipcord, a hammer, and some nails.</p>
+
+<p><em>Provisions.</em>—Two bags of ship’s biscuit, a bag of rice,
+a large supply of tea, coffee, sugar, and salt, packed in tin
+boxes; two dozen tins of preserved meats to be used on emergencies
+only; two small cheeses; some spices, such as mustard, pepper, and
+curry-powder; two dozen of brandy.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the above,—guns and revolvers, and a good stock of
+ammunition; English saddles, bridles, &amp;c.; personal luggage,
+such as clothes, books, instruments, &amp;c., as little as
+possible.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_10">[10]</span><a id="c03"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">ALL our preparations being completed, we embarked,
+with our two Maltese servants, on board H.M.’s Gunboat
+<em>Boxer</em>, 2nd Master Gulliver commanding, and left Malta for
+Tripoli, Nov. 19, 1860. Our object in going there was to have our
+Firman presented to the Pacha or Governor-general of Barbary, who
+resides at Tripoli, and has subordinate Kaimakams, or
+Lieutenant-governors at Mourzouk and Benghazi. After a stormy
+passage, we reached Tripoli on the evening of the 21st, where we
+were most kindly welcomed by Colonel Herman, H.M.’s Consul-general,
+whose liberal hospitality we enjoyed during our stay. He had
+already presented the Firman, and seen that the most favourable
+orders regarding us had been forwarded to the Kaimakam of Benghazi.
+The evening before our departure, he entertained the Pacha at
+dinner, on which occasion we had the opportunity of becoming
+personally acquainted with His Excellency, who knew a little
+French, took his wine freely, played a fair game of billiards, and
+in every respect was quite unlike the ideal Osmanli.</p>
+
+<p>Eastern towns bear such a resemblance to each other that it is
+difficult to give a distinctive description of one in particular.
+The houses, streets, and bazaars of Tripoli might be part of
+Constantinople or Smyrna. The inhabitants, however, are very
+different; instead of the slow gait and placid expression of the
+Turks, they have an unpleasantly wild and active appearance not at
+all reassuring to the traveller. Besides the Arabs, who form the
+great bulk of the population, there are a considerable number of
+Jews and Maltese.</p>
+
+<p>The most prominent feature of Tripoli is the Meshiah or
+date-gardens, which occupy some six or eight square miles along the
+shore to the eastward of the town. Throughout their extent, they
+are so thickly planted, that the ground is almost completely shaded
+by the dense foliage of the date-palms. After traversing the
+Meshiah, one is much struck with its abrupt termination. From a
+luxuriant garden, the visitor, without warning, suddenly finds
+himself in the desert,—a bare undulating expanse of sand,
+stretching away to a range of distant hills.</p>
+
+<p>The most conspicuous building in the city is the Pacha’s harem,
+close to the Eastern gate. By a strange freak of a former Pacha,
+part of it has been painted a bright red, which gives it an odd
+appearance in the midst of the surrounding mass of whitewashed
+walls. This building was the residence of the Karamanli Beys before
+Barbary was taken possession of by the Turks; and shortly before
+the fall of that dynasty, it was the scene of the murder of his
+brother by Yusuf Bey, in the presence of their mother—one of those
+domestic tragedies so common in the houses of Eastern rulers.</p>
+
+<p>The government of Barbary and Fezzan is now similar to that of
+other Turkish provinces, being administered by a Pacha appointed by
+the Porte. As is the case with most Turkish governors, his tenure
+of office is usually very short, seldom, in fact, exceeding a
+year.</p>
+
+<p>In the western part of the town, near the shore, stands the
+Castle, an irregular old building very much in need of repair. It
+contains the Medjlis or council chamber and the other public rooms
+of the Pacha, and is garrisoned by two or three battalions of
+regular infantry. A few years ago, the town was thrown into a state
+of consternation by the mutiny of the troops composing the
+garrison, who besieged the Castle, and threatened the town with
+destruction, if their arrears of pay were not settled and some
+other demands complied with. The firmness of the Pacha, and a few
+timely concessions, with difficulty restored subordination.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i02">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 2.</p>
+<a href="images/i02_large.jpg"><img src='images/i02.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">TRIPOLI</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span>Besides the
+Infantry in the Castle, there is a considerable force of Artillery
+and Cavalry quartered in the Meshiah. When we told the General that
+we should like to see their barracks, he sent one of his
+aides-de-camp to show us over them. The two barracks (Artillery and
+Cavalry) are very pleasantly situated near each other, about a mile
+and a half from the town. We found them remarkably clean and well
+kept, and the stores of arms, clothing, &amp;c., in perfect
+order.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the regular troops, many of the native Arabs are
+retained by the Government as irregular cavalry, called Koralié.
+They are similar to the Bashi Bozouks of other parts of Turkey, and
+are employed principally in the collection of the tribute.</p>
+
+<p>During the late Russian war, an attempt was made to overthrow
+the Turkish government, and restore the rule of the Karamanlis. The
+head of the rebellion was a descendant of one of the last Beys, a
+chief named Ghomer, who had been kept a prisoner for some years at
+Constantinople, but had either escaped or been released. So many of
+the native tribes were in his favour, that for some time he was
+powerful enough to set the government at defiance. He seems,
+besides, to have been a man eminently well fitted for carrying on
+irregular warfare. Several expeditions sent against him ended in
+failure and disaster; but his army was at last completely defeated
+by a force under the immediate command of the Pacha, who on that
+occasion was accompanied by Colonel Herman, to whose judicious
+counsel he was much indebted for its fortunate result. After his
+defeat, Ghomer wandered as a fugitive, with a price set on his
+head, until, at last, he fell into the hands of some of the Pacha’s
+followers, by whom he was slain. One of his most active partisans
+was an Englishman, who, on the suppression of the rebellion, was
+taken prisoner and sent for trial to Constantinople; but on
+reaching the Dardanelles, he was quietly released by order of the
+Sultan.</p>
+
+<p>The following quaint sketch of the history of Tripoli is given
+in a work published in 1670, entitled “Africa; being an Accurate
+Description of the Regions of Egypt, Barbary, Libya, and
+Billedulgerid, the Land of Negroes, Guinee, Æthiopia, and the
+Abyssines, &amp;c. &amp;c., by John Ogilby, Esquire, Master of His
+Majesty’s Revels in the Kingdom of Ireland.”</p>
+
+<p>“This city and State (Tripoli) hath from the beginning had Lords
+of greatest eminency; as first the Romans, to whom it did Homage
+and Fealty, when they were Masters of Africa; but as their strength
+and glory declined, shrouded themselves under the protection of the
+Kings of Morocco, Fez, and Tunis, which have possessed it by right
+of Birth: but when the Inhabitants saw themselves oppressed by the
+Tyranny of Mukamur, Son of Hesen, King of Tunis, they threw the
+yoke off their Necks, first by a general Revolt, then expelling the
+King’s Lieutenant, and all other his officers, and at last electing
+from among themselves one whom they made their Ruler or Magistrate,
+putting all the Revenue and Support of the State into his hands. In
+the beginning this new Lord ruled with all gentleness; but
+afterwards degenerating into all sorts of Tyranny, his brother in
+law revenged the cause of the City by killing him. Freed from this
+Viper of their own breeding, they impowered a courtier of Prince
+Abubacer, who had been a Recluse or Hermit who held the command a
+few months, till Ferdinand, King of Arragon and Castile, sent Don
+Pedro de Navarre thither with an Army, who surprized the city, made
+all the Inhabitants Slaves, and brought them away; together with
+their Governour and his Son, whom he sent first to Messina, from
+thence to Palermo, where the Emperor Charles V. set him at liberty,
+dismissing him home to Tripoli, which the Christians, as we said,
+had dismantled and made untenable in all parts except the castle,
+which they furnished with a brave wall, whereon they planted divers
+great Cannon.</p>
+
+<p>“The young Prince being come to Tripoli, repeopled it, in the
+name and on the behalf of the Emperor Charles; but in the year
+1533, together with Tunis, Byserta, Susa, Monaster, and the Island
+of Zerby, was regained by Barberossa, who was scarcely warm in it
+before the Emperor Charles reassaulted and took it, forthwith
+making a Present of it to the Knights of Malta, who possessed it
+till the year 1551, when, under the reign of Solyman the
+Magnificent, Sinan Bashaw came and besieged Tripoli; to whom after
+a short time it was delivered upon honourable articles;<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> among which one was, That the
+garrison should march out with Bag and Baggage, and be provided of
+convenient shipping to Malta by Sinan; but, contrary to the
+conditions, most of them were plundered of their Goods: two hundred
+of the Moors, who had served the Maltese, were put to the Sword,
+and most of the Knights of Malta sent to the galleys, and the rest
+the Bashaw took and made slaves.</p>
+
+<p>“After this victory Sinan appointed Morat Aga to be Viceroy, and
+ever since the Grand Seignior sends from Constantinople every three
+years a Beglerbeg or Bashaw thither to support his Conquests.</p>
+
+<p>“About the year 1598, Sidi Haga, a Marabout, or Priest,
+designing to make himself a Master of the city and kingdom, with
+the assistance of the meaner sort, began a notable Rebellion; upon
+the first intelligence whereof, Assam Bassa, Admiral at Sea, sailed
+thither with sixty galleys and some soldiers, from Tunis and
+Algier, on a sudden fell into the Marabout’s Quarters, whose own
+men, finding their error, in some measure to mitigate the fury
+against themselves, set an end to their mutiny by presenting their
+Captain’s head to Sinan, who sent it to the Grand Seignior.</p>
+
+<p>“In this condition Tripoli continued until about the year 1600,
+when the authority of the Bashaw was diminished by the soldiers and
+their commanders, in the same manner as Kara Osman did at Tunis,
+since which time Mahomet Bey, a Grecian Renegado, of the ancient
+house of the Justinians, hath so laid his business, that having got
+the Banner of Tripolis from the Grand Seignior, after he became
+Master of the Castle, would not endure the Bashaw any longer, but
+began to rule with full authority, yet still pretending a
+subjection to the Turk; and to preserve his favour, as an
+acknowledgement and homage, he frequently sends over many costly
+presents, and slaves: But at length this Bey became so powerful,
+that nothing was done but by his peculiar command. For he took
+soldiers at his pleasure, without the knowledge of the Divan, or
+Militia, and placed them in the Castle, for the security of his own
+person, that he might not be trepanned into his Ruin by the
+Policies of the Great Turk: and in this posture of Government it
+remained and doth still; only in 1667, the Moors made a dangerous
+Insurrection; but it proved only to the loss of their own
+heads.”</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_13">[13]</span><a id="c04"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">AFTER spending four days very pleasantly at
+Tripoli, we reluctantly took leave of Colonel and Mrs. Herman, and
+started for Benghazi, in the <em>Boxer</em>, on the 25th. There
+being little coal to spare, we went under sail, and as the winds
+were light and variable, we did not reach Benghazi till noon of the
+30th.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after we had anchored, the late Mr. Frederick Crowe,
+H.M.’s Vice-Consul, came on board, and most kindly invited us to
+take up our quarters at his house. Our original intention was to
+have gone on to Derna, and made it the starting-point of our
+journey to Cyrene, as the distance from that place was much less
+than from Benghazi. By Mr. Crowe’s advice, however, we gave up this
+idea, and resolved to adopt Benghazi as our “base of operations.”
+He told us that as there was not at that time a single European at
+Derna to assist us, we should have great difficulty in forming a
+caravan, and making the necessary arrangements for our journey. We
+were therefore easily induced to accept his kind offers of
+hospitality and assistance.</p>
+
+<p>At the landing-place we were received by some officers sent by
+the Kaimakam, who informed us that rooms had been prepared for our
+accommodation at the Castle. Saddle-horses also were in waiting,
+out of compliment rather than for use, the distance to the Castle
+being only some fifty yards. After the exchange of the usual
+salutations and fine speeches, the ceremonial reception came to an
+end, and the officers retired. Immediately afterwards we were happy
+to find ourselves under the hospitable roof of Mr. Crowe. The
+following day the <em>Boxer</em> left to return to Malta.</p>
+
+<p>Benghazi, built on the site of the ancient Hesperides or
+Berenice, occupies the point of a narrow strip of land between the
+sea and a shallow salt lake or lagoon. A belt of palm-trees behind
+the town, and the solitary minaret of a mosque, are the only
+objects that rise above the monotonous level of the surrounding
+country, and give any distinctive character to the scene. We must,
+however, except some half-dozen bent and melancholy-looking palms
+on Juliana Point, on the opposite side of the entrance to the
+harbour. For upwards of twenty miles inland from Benghazi, the
+country is an unvaried undulating plain, with hardly a single
+feature to mark one part of it from another. A few juniper and
+baturne shrubs grow here and there. The sketch we have given is
+taken from the northward of the town near the meat-market, and a
+few yards in front of the only windmill in the country.</p>
+
+<p>The streets and houses in the town are wretched in the extreme.
+The houses, if such they may be called, are all built of small
+stones plastered and held together with mud. The consequence is,
+that the town is half laid in ruins every winter by the rain, and
+as but few of the fallen houses are ever rebuilt, the miserable
+appearance of the streets may easily be imagined. Whitewash, so
+liberally used by the Turks, and which gives such an air of comfort
+and cleanliness to many of their villages, is here unknown. The
+streets, encumbered with the ruins of fallen houses, are, moreover,
+filthy to a degree unknown in the worst of European cities.</p>
+
+<p>No account of Benghazi would be complete without mentioning the
+plague of flies, to which it is at nearly all seasons subject.
+During meals, a partial escape from their persecution may be
+effected by darkening the room, and thereby inducing them to settle
+on the ceiling. Even then, however, they are perpetually crawling
+into the cups and plates, notwithstanding the efforts of a servant
+“told off” for the very purpose of driving them away. It is almost
+unnecessary to add that fleas abound, as in other Eastern
+places.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i03">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 3.</p>
+<a href="images/i03_large.jpg"><img src='images/i03.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">BENGHAZI</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span>The following
+graphic and accurate description of the Benghazi flies is given by
+Beechey:—“On account of the filth and rubbish and the stagnant
+pools in the town, Benghazi is proverbial for flies, and every part
+of the town, both within and without the houses, may truly be said
+to swarm with them. Among the various annoyances with which the
+place abounds these are perhaps the most serious of any, or, at all
+events, they are those from which it is least possible to escape;
+there is, in fact, no chance of avoiding them. They follow you
+everywhere from place to place, settle on every part of the arms,
+legs, and body, which the heat of the weather obliges you to leave
+uncovered; creep obstinately into the corners of the eyes and up
+the nostrils, into the hollows of the ears and the corners of the
+mouth when it is closed; and often fly down the throat, nearly
+choking you, when it is open. At meals, every part of the dishes
+and their contents are covered as soon as they are produced, and
+every fluid becomes a trap for as many of these insects as can
+crowd over its surface. In short, there is literally no riding or
+walking, no reading or writing, no eating or resting one’s self in
+any part of Benghazi in comfort for them; and if at night they take
+up their accustomed position on the ceiling, and give place to the
+fleas and mosquitoes, the first dawn of morning finds them on the
+wing, and all alive to recommence their operations.”</p>
+
+<p>The Castle, which stands on one side of the entrance to the
+harbour, consists of a number of houses enclosed by a quadrangular
+wall with round flanking towers at the corners. The masonry is very
+little superior to that of the rest of the town; in fact, the walls
+are so badly built that they would soon collapse under the
+concussion of the fire of their own guns. One range of houses is
+used as a barrack for the wing of an infantry regiment, another as
+the prison, and the remaining buildings as the residence and
+council-chamber of the Kaimakam.</p>
+
+<p>The English Consulate, and a few two-storied houses lately built
+close by it, give a respectable appearance to the part of the town
+near the Castle. When we were at Benghazi, some missionaries from
+the Propaganda at Rome were building in this quarter a good
+substantial house and chapel, which promised to become by far the
+finest structure in the town. The object of this mission is not so
+much to attempt the conversion of the native Arabs, as to attend to
+the spiritual wants of the Christians of the place, who are almost
+all Maltese. The mission consists of one priest and two or three
+lay brethren, all of the Capuchin order of friars.</p>
+
+<div class="box-float-left">
+<div class="figfloat iw4">
+<figure id="i04"><a href="images/i04.jpg"><img src='images/i04.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 4.—Amor Bon Abdi Seyat and Sheikh
+Bochlega.</p>
+
+<p class="cp3"><em>From a Photograph.</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of the first things we had to attend to at Benghazi was the
+question of escort. By order of the Pacha, the Kaimakam was
+required to furnish us with an adequate one; but Mr. Crowe advised
+us to go as independently of the Turkish authorities as possible;
+as he thought rightly, that all the soldiers the Kaimakam could
+send with us could afford little assistance if the Arabs actually
+turned against us, and would, probably, by their very presence,
+only provoke hostility. We therefore declined the Kaimakam’s offers
+of protection in this respect, and contented ourselves with a
+circular letter addressed to his subordinates, the Mudirs of Merdj,
+Ghegheb, and Derna. Meantime, Mr. Crowe sent for some of the
+principal sheikhs of the tribes on our proposed route, in order, if
+possible, to enlist them in our favour. Some of them fortunately
+happened to come to Benghazi a few days afterwards, when Mr. Crowe
+asked them to pay him a visit at the Consulate. When they came, he
+told them of our intended journey to Cyrene, and said that we
+should prefer their protection to that of the military escort
+offered by the Kaimakam. They replied that they were very happy to
+be able to do anything in return for the benefits he had conferred
+on them, and especially for the restraint which his
+presence<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> exercised
+upon the unlawful and oppressive conduct of the Pachas. They then
+gave us letters to the sheikhs of the principal tribes on our
+route, and ordered an Arab from the neighbourhood of Cyrene to
+accompany us on our journey, and remain with us afterwards. This
+man, Amor Bon Abdi Seyat, proved in the end of the greatest
+service. He is shown on the left of the <a href="#i04">annexed
+sketch,</a> and the other was one of our friends at Cyrene, Sheikh
+Bochlega.</p>
+
+<p>The question of escort settled, the next thing to be attended to
+was our equipment for the journey. In this, as in all our
+arrangements, we were greatly assisted by Mr. Crowe. We were also
+much indebted to Mr. Cesareo, a merchant of Benghazi, who
+afterwards accompanied us to Cyrene, at Mr. Crowe’s request. The
+Kaimakam undertook to procure as many camels for hire as we
+required. Our horses we bought at an auction, which is worthy of
+some notice, as it was conducted on rather a curious principle. The
+auctioneer walks about the bazaar, showing whatever is for sale,
+and calling out the last bid for it. When no one will bid more, the
+article is “knocked down” to the highest bidder, not at the sum
+offered by himself, but at the next highest. In bidding, therefore,
+against other people, the best plan is to allow them to run the
+price up till it has nearly reached the sum one is willing to pay,
+and then to offer a much larger price. This, of course, deters them
+from offering more; and the article is obtained at the smaller sum
+which they had bid for it. Our two horses bought in this way cost
+£14.</p>
+
+<p>A great many necessaries for the journey had to be got, which,
+had we been left entirely to ourselves, we might have forgotten.
+Among the most important of these were skins for carrying water,
+called “girbehs,” and a leather bucket for drawing it. The
+<em>girbeh</em> is a whole goat-skin tanned inside, with the hair
+left on outside. To our stock of provisions we added another bag of
+biscuit and a large bag of onions. We also bought a dozen Barbary
+mats, which added greatly to our comfort, both on the journey, and
+afterwards during our stay at Cyrene. They make an excellent
+covering for the floor of a tent, for which purpose they are much
+to be preferred to rugs or carpets. Being made of thin strips of
+reed, they are not injured by the rain, and can be dried at once by
+simply rubbing them with a cloth. Their special excellence,
+however, is that they afford very little harbour for fleas.</p>
+
+<p>We laid in a good stock of coarse-grained powder to be used as
+“bakshish,” or presents. As the importation and sale of gunpowder
+are prohibited, it is smuggled on shore by the traders of Benghazi,
+who charge the Arabs a price proportionate to the risk they run in
+procuring it, or the sum they expend in bribing the officers of the
+Custom-house. For this reason, powder is often more useful to the
+traveller than money itself. By Mr. Crowe’s advice, we also took
+for “bakshish” some printed cotton handkerchiefs, and some leaf
+tobacco for chewing. Somewhat to our surprise, we found smoking
+almost unknown, and the habit of chewing tobacco very prevalent
+among the Arabs. They use with it a kind of saltpetre, called
+“natron,” obtained, as we were told, from the salt lakes of
+Fezzan.</p>
+
+<p>Of the ancient city very few remains are now visible. At the
+back of the Castle, where the ground rises a little, the sea has
+washed away the soil, and thereby formed a steep face or escarp, in
+which some foundations may be seen cropping out; but,
+unfortunately, the tomb of a Marābut or saint, and the surrounding
+public burial-ground, prevent any excavation being made.</p>
+
+<p>During the twelve days that we remained at Benghazi, we made
+several excursions with Mr. Crowe in the neighbourhood. The most
+interesting locality is at the head of the shallow lagoon about two
+miles from the town. Here a succession of mounds and other
+irregularities in the surface of the ground mark the position of
+the ancient cemetery. About eleven years ago, some rather extensive
+excavations were made here by M. de Bourville, French Vice-Consul
+at Benghazi. His labours were rewarded by finding a number of
+valuable vases, and some sculptures of later date, all of which are
+now deposited in the Louvre. Judging from the appearance of a tomb
+which Mr. Crowe had recently opened, the necropolis seems to have
+consisted of tombs built<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_16">[16]</span> underground. His attention was attracted to
+the spot in which this tomb was afterwards discovered by noticing
+the hollow sound of his horse’s footsteps when riding over it.
+After digging two or three days, his workmen found the entrance in
+the end wall, only a few feet below the surface. The interior
+resembled, in plan, many of the rock sepulchres at Cyrene and
+elsewhere, consisting of an oblong centre chamber with lateral
+recesses for the sarcophagi. It was built throughout of isodomous
+masonry, without mortar. Besides a large plain marble sarcophagus,
+it contained two small ones, also of marble, and highly ornamented
+with figures in bas-relief. These were afterwards sent by Mr. Crowe
+to the British Museum, where they may be seen among the sculptures
+from Cyrene.</p>
+
+<p>There is an old Arab at Benghazi, formerly employed by M. de
+Bourville both there and at Teuchira, who now spends his time in
+digging in the cemetery. His operations are, of course, on a very
+limited scale; but by digging small holes at random all over the
+place, he has found a great many vases, terra-cotta figures,
+&amp;c., which he sells to the Maltese merchants in the town. We
+were inclined to engage him to go with us to Cyrene; but as he
+considered himself entitled to about as much pay as a dozen
+workmen, we had to dispense with his services.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i05"><a href="images/i05.jpg"><img src='images/i05.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 5.—Supposed Entrance to the River Lethe.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Beyond the cemetery, in the extensive plain of Benghazi, there
+are numerous natural hollows or chasms, with steep rocky sides,
+some of which still bear the marks of having been used as quarries.
+Moistened by the drainage of the surrounding ground, the soil at
+the bottom of many of them is covered with a luxuriant vegetation.
+One of them, about four miles from Benghazi, known as the “Garden
+of Osman,” is pretty fairly cultivated, and contains a well of
+excellent water. The verdure of these spots, resembling, as they
+do, oases in a desert, has given rise to the conjecture that they
+are the gardens of the Hesperides.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span>We also visited a
+remarkable place, supposed, with a greater degree of probability,
+to be an entrance to the subterranean river Lathon, which has
+usually been identified with the Lethe. About a mile from the
+Garden of Osman we were conducted to the edge of an abrupt ravine,
+about 100 feet deep, with a dark-looking cavern at the bottom.
+Leaving our horses above, we descended the ravine, and entered the
+cave. At the entrance it was low and narrow; but after descending a
+few yards, it suddenly expanded to a height of fifteen and a width
+of about forty feet. Some thirty yards from the entrance we came to
+the margin of a sheet of water, which extended as far as the eye
+could reach. One of our Arab attendants waded in with a lighted
+torch, but was obliged to return on account of the depth of water,
+after going about fifty yards. Whether the water is really a river,
+or only a large subterranean pool, it is difficult to say. We
+wished to explore it further, but could not get a boat at Benghazi
+small enough to be portable. Some years ago, it was determined to
+sink a shaft to the cavern some distance from the mouth, for the
+purpose, probably, of making the large supply of water available;
+but through an error in the bearings taken by the superintending
+officer, the shaft was sunk in the wrong place, and consequently
+the water was never reached. The good work was then abandoned as
+unlucky, and has not since been resumed.</p>
+
+<p>The harbour of Benghazi is very unsafe, and cannot be entered by
+vessels drawing more than six feet of water. The channel at the
+entrance is narrow, with a reef of rocks on each side. The outside
+anchorage is quite open and unsheltered, so that vessels lying
+there have to put to sea when it blows hard from seaward. Instead
+of doing anything towards improving the harbour, the authorities do
+not even prevent vessels from discharging their ballast into it,
+and thereby making it gradually worse. The day before we left, we
+saw a brig belonging to Benghazi wrecked on the rocks off the
+Castle. She had come from Leghorn with a general cargo, and
+anchored off the harbour during a stiff breeze from the S.W., the
+pilot thinking it unsafe to attempt to enter until the wind
+moderated. Her anchors, however, soon gave way, and she drove on
+the rocks, where she soon became a total wreck. Had the crew and
+the people on shore exerted themselves, they might have saved the
+greater part of the cargo; but, with true Mahomedan indifference,
+they looked on until it was too late to save more than one or two
+boat-loads.</p>
+
+<p>The water in the wells at Benghazi is very brackish; so much so,
+that the inhabitants are obliged to bring water from sweet wells at
+some distance from the town. Some of these are about two miles off,
+near the end of the belt of palm-trees; but the best water comes
+from the wells on the opposite side of the lagoon. It is carried in
+skins, or small breakers, on the backs of camels and donkeys, whose
+drivers appear to be the only industrious class of the whole
+community.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_18">[18]</span><a id="c05"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">ON the morning of the 12th December, our other
+preparations being completed, we commenced loading the camels. The
+distribution of the baggage was a very tedious operation, owing
+chiefly to the quarrelling of the drivers with each other, every
+man trying to get as light a load as possible for his own camel.
+The baggage required on the journey had to be kept separate from
+the rest, and each load had to be divided so as to balance on the
+camel’s back,—a complicated arrangement, which led to endless
+wrangling on the part of the drivers. It was only after summoning
+to our aid the Kaimakam, who threatened them with imprisonment and
+bastinado, that we at last got the caravan under weigh. It
+consisted of ten camels, on two of which our Maltese servants were
+mounted, four camel-drivers and four blacks on foot, and Mr.
+Cesareo, two guides, and ourselves on horseback. We left late in
+the afternoon, and were accompanied some distance by Mr. Crowe, and
+his interpreter Mr. Levi. It was with great regret that we bade him
+adieu, although little thinking that we should never see him again.
+We had spent twelve days with him most pleasantly, and his kind
+hospitality had made even Benghazi a second home to us.</p>
+
+<p>We halted for the night at the “Garden of Osman” mentioned
+above. This is a favourite resting-place for caravans starting from
+Benghazi, as it has a well of excellent water, with which the Arabs
+fill their “girbehs” before proceeding on their journeys. Here we
+pitched our two tents, one for our servants and baggage, and the
+other for Mr. Cesareo and ourselves. The following morning, after
+filling our water-skins and loading the camels, we started at
+half-past eight, and rode straight across the plain in the
+direction of the hills. Before we had reached them, however, the
+rain, which had been threatening all the morning, began to pour in
+torrents. Further progress was impossible, as the camels could
+hardly keep their feet on the soft slippery ground; and we were
+consequently obliged to halt about the middle of the day at the
+foot of the range of hills known as the Augŭbah of Benghazi. We
+chose the best site for encamping we could find, but had great
+difficulty in pitching our tents, on account of the high wind and
+the softness of the ground, which by this time was saturated with
+water. We had to make use of our storm guys, as the ordinary ones
+were much too short to keep the tents up by themselves. It was
+nearly evening before we had everything snug for the night. Our
+efforts to light a fire, after innumerable failures, were finally
+successful, and soon after dark we had a splendid bonfire, which
+had a most cheering effect. The appearance of our little camp was
+very striking,—camels kneeling round the tents, horses picketed
+here and there, and groups of wild-looking Arabs crouching near the
+fire, while all around was perfect darkness. Our Barbary mats
+proved a great luxury, as the ground had become a perfect puddle
+with the trampling of men and animals. Before we got under the
+shelter of the tents, we had ample opportunity of testing the
+utility of the Arab burnouses we had bought in Benghazi. The
+burnous—the origin of the graceful one worn by ladies in Europe—is
+a long grey and white striped woollen cloak with a hood, made
+throughout in one piece, without seams, and woven thick and close
+enough to be waterproof. It is specially adapted for riding, as it
+forms a sort of <em>tente d’abri</em> for both horse and horseman.
+In fine weather it may be rolled up and strapped to the Ds of the
+saddle like a cavalry cloak.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, the 14th, the weather was fine; but we were
+unable to start, as the ground was still too slippery for the soft
+flat feet of the camels. Meantime, two Arabs arrived, who
+were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> sent by the
+Kaimakam to act as guides or escort; thus increasing our total
+number to seventeen. We would willingly have dispensed with their
+presence, as they only added to the number dependent on our rather
+slender stock of provisions; but as the Kaimakam insisted on their
+accompanying us, we thought it ungracious to send them back, and
+allowed them to remain. We spent the day pleasantly enough, walking
+about the neighbouring hills and ravines, and shooting partridges.
+We found neither golden plovers nor sand-grouse, although they had
+been very plentiful near Benghazi.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, as the weather continued fine, we struck our
+tents, packed up, and started about half-past nine. We ascended the
+Augŭbah by a rugged path winding through a ravine, until we emerged
+on an extensive plateau. For some miles the surface was undulating,
+with here and there patches of trees and brushwood. In many places
+the landscape was very pleasing, and somewhat resembled an English
+park on a large scale. During summer the aspect is very different,
+as the verdure entirely disappears under the scorching rays of the
+sun. As we proceeded, the scene became less and less diversified,
+until we found ourselves traversing what appeared a boundless
+plain, with neither tree nor shrub to be seen. Some two or three
+miles to our left, the ground rose slightly, forming a range of low
+hills parallel to our route. We saw very little game, and were only
+able to add one partridge to our stock. Shortly before sunset, we
+turned off our track to the low hills on the left, where we pitched
+our tents in a very pretty spot among shrubs and small trees, about
+a hundred yards from a Bedouin encampment. A good fire soon cooked
+our dinner, which, on this occasion, was improved by the addition
+of some mushrooms gathered during the day.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, the 16th, we started about nine, and
+continued our route across the plain nearly in a due easterly
+direction. There was a strong southerly wind all day, which was so
+bitterly cold, that we were glad to wrap ourselves in our
+comforters and burnouses for protection. We were rather astonished
+at the time to find the cold so piercing; but we afterwards
+observed that the south wind, proverbially a hot one in summer, is
+invariably the coldest in winter; a fact which may be accounted for
+by the effect of the great tract of elevated land which extends far
+to the southward, compared with the moderating influence of the
+Mediterranean on the north. After riding about eighteen miles, our
+path, for four or five miles, lay through a thick wood of juniper
+and cedar trees, which for a time sheltered us from the biting
+wind. When we had passed the wood, we saw the castle of Merdj about
+three miles distant, near the south-western end of the plain of the
+same name. Shortly after four o’clock we arrived at the Castle,
+where we were warmly welcomed by the Mudir, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l
+Agha, who had just arrived from Barca, a district under his rule,
+to the southward of Benghazi. Our camels did not arrive till after
+dark.</p>
+
+<p>Hadji Achmet made us as comfortable as possible in his only
+room, and gave us the most sumptuous dinner that could be
+provided.</p>
+
+<p>During the night the rain began again, and continued at
+intervals all next day, so that we were obliged to remain two days
+until the ground dried. The delay, however, was not unpleasant, as
+Hadji Achmet did everything in his power to make our stay
+agreeable. He was particularly jovial and good-humoured; so much
+so, that it was impossible to be out of spirits in his company. He
+enjoyed hearing amusing stories, and had a fund of them of his own,
+which he told with great glee. He was descended from an old and
+powerful family in Mesurata, near Tripoli, and as commander of the
+Koralié, had rendered good service to the Sultan’s Government
+during the rebellion of Ghomer. It was by him that Ghomer was at
+last taken and slain.</p>
+
+<p>The castles of Merdj and Ghegheb were built about fifteen years
+ago by the Turks, and are always occupied by one or two companies
+of regular Turkish troops. They were intended as a means of
+overawing the Arabs, and assisting the Mudirs in collecting the
+tribute. They have utterly failed in attaining the former object;
+but, inasmuch as they afford a comparatively safe residence for the
+Mudir and his money-chest, they may be said, in some degree, to
+have accomplished<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> the
+latter. The Castle or Gŭsr (Arabicè) of Merdj is a quadrangular
+casemated building with round flanking towers at the angles, in
+each of which an old 9-pounder carronade is mounted on a
+superannuated carriage. The garrison at this time consisted of
+ninety cavalry, fifty infantry, and three officers. The room to the
+left of the entrance is the Mudir’s, that on the right the prison,
+and the remainder barracks and stables. The four marble pillars
+shown in the <a href="#i07">Plate</a> were found near the spot, and
+placed here to ornament the Mudir’s room. Two of the capitals, of a
+mixed Corinthian order, stand near them at the end of the room; the
+other two are imitated in stucco. The Castle, although very
+dilapidated in appearance, is strong in reality, being built for
+the most part of squared blocks of stone found on the spot. It
+stands a little elevated above the surrounding plain, on a small
+plateau formerly the site of Barca, an offshoot of Cyrene, which
+attained to considerable size and importance, and was one of the
+five cities which constituted the Pentapolis. Remains of the
+ancient city may be seen in the materials of which the Castle is
+built, and in the walls of the few wretched houses which have
+sprung up near it; but none of them are worthy of any note. Near
+the gate of the Castle, however, there is a deep well lined with
+masonry, evidently of ancient date, which was discovered during the
+building of the Castle by some workmen, who were digging for blocks
+of stone. It yields an abundant supply of water, which, although
+very brackish, is a great boon to the surrounding country during
+summer.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i06"><a href="images/i06.jpg"><img src='images/i06.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 6.—Castle and Village of Merdj (Barca).</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The plain of Merdj is of great extent, measuring upwards of
+twenty miles in length, and from six to eight in breadth. It is
+perfectly level, and is surrounded by ranges of hills, of which
+those on the east rise to a height of about 500 feet above the
+plain. As seen from the hills, it appears to have been at one time
+the bed of a lake. Its elevation above the sea is probably about
+1,000 feet. The soil is a deep rich loam, about one third of which
+is under cultivation, and yields abundant crops of wheat and
+barley. The rest of the plain is good grazing land, and is much
+frequented by Arab encampments with their flocks during the early
+part of summer, before the pools which have formed in winter are
+dried up.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span>The weather having
+cleared up, we again got the caravan together, and started on the
+morning of the 19th. The ground was still rather soft, so that the
+camels could only walk at a slow and cautious pace. Our kind host
+had loaded us with as many provisions as we could carry; among
+other things, a sheep, bread, butter, and dates, and barley for the
+horses. We shall always have a pleasant recollection of Gŭsr Merdj
+and its hospitable Governor, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha (Pilgrim
+Achmet the Son of the Ruler).</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i07"><a href="images/i07.jpg"><img src='images/i07.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 7.—Mudir’s Room in the Castle of Merdj.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>After crossing the plain in a north-easterly direction, we
+reached the hills about mid-day. As we approached the verge of the
+plain, the country became well wooded, the hills at the base being
+covered with olives, and higher up with pines and junipers. A large
+quantity of oil might be made every year from the olives; but the
+Arabs are either ignorant of its value or too careless to take the
+trouble of collecting the berries, which are left to be eaten by
+the goats. The remainder of the day’s journey was chiefly through
+thick woods, in which we saw, for the first time, the arbutus,
+which was then in full bloom, being covered with both flower and
+fruit. The berries are of a bright red colour, somewhat resembling
+strawberries in appearance, and, although not luscious, are by no
+means disagreeable when quite ripe, notwithstanding Pliny’s remark
+that they are called <em>unedo</em>, because he who has eaten one
+will never wish to eat another. The bark is useful for tanning
+purposes, and good charcoal has been made from the wood.</p>
+
+<p>After travelling eight hours, we encamped for the night by some
+wells in an open cultivated plain. The camels, as usual, were late
+in coming up, and it was quite dark before we got the tents
+pitched. While waiting for their arrival, we shot a good many
+golden plover.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, we continued our journey through a very
+beautiful country, the track passing<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_22">[22]</span> over a succession of hills, from the summits
+of which we had many extensive views. The valleys, enclosed by the
+well-wooded sides of the hills, were frequently quite picturesque.
+To relieve the monotony of the march, we used to ride on some miles
+ahead of the caravan with one or two of the guides, until we
+reached a likely place for game, where, leaving our horses in
+charge of the guides, we walked about the covers shooting what we
+could find till the caravan came up. In this way, we kept up our
+supplies without being obliged to encroach on our small stock of
+preserved meat. This day we got a couple of hares, seven
+partridges, and twenty-five golden plovers. We encamped at night in
+the bottom of a ravine, where we found some water in the hollows of
+the rock.</p>
+
+<p>Next day, the 21st, we passed over a similar tract of country,
+the features of which, however, became more strongly marked as we
+advanced, the hills becoming higher and steeper, and more
+frequently intersected by rugged ravines. Towards evening, we
+encamped by the side of an ancient hill-fortress, doubtless of
+Roman construction, called by the Arabs Gŭsr Biligadem, which
+occupies a most commanding position on the top of a hill. The
+scenery in the immediate neighbourhood is very beautiful, and the
+view from the Castle is one of the finest and most extensive in the
+Cyrenaica. The Castle is an oblong building, measuring 160 feet by
+80, with a square flanking tower in the centre of each of the
+longer sides. It is still wonderfully perfect, the walls in some
+parts still standing to a height of 40 feet. Traces of a ditch and
+counterscarp may also be seen on two of its sides. It is built
+throughout of large squared blocks without mortar, and each wall is
+double, consisting, in fact, of two walls built close to each
+other, but without any connecting bond. Over the entrance, there is
+a double arch, the inner one of which is built on the radiating,
+and the outer on the more ancient horizontal principle. Near the
+Castle, there is a large well, now choked up, and a number of tombs
+cut in the sides of the rock.</p>
+
+<p>Forts in similar positions occur in different parts of the
+Cyrenaica, none of which, however, are nearly so perfect as
+Biligadem. They were most probably built by the Romans soon after
+they acquired possession of the country, and were placed so as to
+protect the communications between the different cities.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, the 22nd, we started as early as possible, in
+the hope of reaching Cyrene before sunset; but, owing to an error
+on the part of the guide, night overtook us about four hours’
+distance from our destination. Immediately after leaving Biligadem,
+we descended into a deep narrow ravine with rocky sides, called the
+Wady Il Aggur, the bottom of which was covered with pines of
+immense size. Under the pines, there was a perfect thicket of
+smaller trees and shrubs, such as the carub or locust-tree, the
+juniper, oleander, &amp;c. After winding along this Wady for five
+hours without seeing any possible means of exit, we turned up a
+smaller ravine to our left, and managed to climb to the top. Soon
+afterwards, we passed the Zauyah El Beidah, the only modern
+building we had seen after leaving Benghazi, except the Castle of
+Merdj. A <em>Zauyah</em> in Barbary is a sort of Mahomedan
+monastery and mosque combined. The resident devotees, called
+<em>Achwan</em>, who, except in the matter of celibacy, somewhat
+resemble monks, are under a chief, called the <em>Sheikh El
+Zauyah</em>, a man of immense influence, as we afterwards learned
+by most unpleasant experience. They belong to the sect of El
+Senoussy, so called from the name of the founder, who died not many
+years ago. Their chief object appears to be the revival of the
+fanaticism and intolerance of the good old times of the true
+faith.</p>
+
+<p>As it began to get dark soon after we had passed the Zauyah El
+Beidah, we were obliged to halt and encamp for the night.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i08">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 8.</p>
+<a href="images/i08_large.jpg"><img src='images/i08.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">ENCAMPMENT NEAR A ROMAN FORTRESS (GŬSR
+BILIGADEM)</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next morning, the 23rd, we started at nine, and after a three
+hours’ ride, arrived at Cyrene soon after midday. It was a cold
+gusty day, and before we had reached our destination, the rain was
+falling in torrents. The mist prevented our seeing to any distance;
+but the country immediately around us, being perfectly destitute of
+trees and even shrubs, looked desolate in the extreme. Meantime, we
+sought temporary shelter from the storm in some rock tombs near the
+Fountain of Apollo. When<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_23">[23]</span> the rain had somewhat abated, we selected the
+cleanest and most convenient of them for our future residence, and
+immediately set to work to clear out the earth and rubbish with
+which it was nearly filled. When the caravan arrived, some three
+hours afterwards, the drivers were so impatient to be off, that
+they would not even stay to assist us in getting the baggage under
+shelter. Our first night in our new quarters was certainly rather
+cheerless. Bags and boxes soaked with the rain lay in confusion on
+the muddy floor of the tomb, and no dinner could be had for want of
+a fire to cook it.</p>
+
+<p>We spent the whole of the next day in making our quarters as
+comfortable as possible. The tomb we ourselves occupied was at the
+bottom of a steep hill about 250 yards from the Fountain, and
+almost overhead there was a long range of larger chambers also cut
+in the rock, which we used as servants’ quarters, kitchen, stable,
+&amp;c. Our room had two doors or openings, one of which we built
+half-way up with stones and mud, leaving the upper part open to
+serve as a window. The mats which we had bought at Benghazi made an
+excellent carpet, and one of them suspended over the entrance was a
+good substitute for a door. In the course of time, we gradually
+improved our quarters by paving the entrance with tiles, making
+steps up to the kitchen, &amp;c. We contrived to build quite a
+respectable door with rough planks cut from the trunks of
+trees.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i09"><a href="images/i09.jpg"><img src='images/i09.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 9.—Interior of our Tomb of Residence.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Having found on our arrival at Tripoli that our firman gave us
+authority to dig for sculptures, and remove such as we found, we
+were anxious before leaving Benghazi, to engage a few workmen to
+accompany us. Mr. Crowe accordingly got us four negroes, whose
+liberation from slavery he had recently obtained from the Kaimakam.
+Three of them having only just been brought from the interior,
+could hardly speak a word of Arabic. They seemed very glad to go
+with us, and all went<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span>
+well till we reached Merdj, where we were told one morning, to our
+astonishment, that they had enlisted as soldiers. Our friend, the
+Mudir, immediately ordered them to be brought before him, but the
+only explanation he could get from them was, that they preferred
+becoming soldiers to being killed. They appeared to be highly
+indignant about something, and determined not to go on with us.
+Some soldiers were also interrogated, but no explanation could be
+elicited. It afterwards came out, however, that some of the black
+soldiers had assured them that we were taking them into the desert
+to cut their throats, and look for treasure with their blood. The
+Mudir, with great difficulty, induced them to remain with us, but
+it was some days before they were quite convinced of the innocence
+of our intentions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw3">
+<figure id="i10"><a href="images/i10.jpg"><img src='images/i10.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 10.—Our Workmen—Saleh, Mohammed and
+Abdullah.</p>
+
+<p class="cp3"><em>From a Photograph.</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i11">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 11.</p>
+<a href="images/i11_large.jpg"><img src='images/i11.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">WESTERN HILL OF CYRENE, WITH ENTRANCE TO THE
+FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_25">[25]</span><a id="c06"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">THE site of the ancient city of Cyrene is called by
+the Arabs, <em>Shahat</em>—a name which is rather indefinite, as it
+includes, besides the city, the adjoining district to the east,
+north, and west, that to the southward being called
+<em>Grennah</em>, a corruption evidently of the original Greek
+name. As the Fountain of Apollo is well known throughout the
+Cyrenaica, the traveller desirous of visiting Cyrene should ask for
+<em>’Ain Shahat</em>, the Fountain of Shahat.</p>
+
+<p>To understand the position of Cyrene, it is necessary to
+consider the general configuration of the country. From near
+Benghazi on the west to beyond Derna on the east, a range of hills
+about 1,000 feet high runs nearly parallel to the shore, at a
+distance from it varying from one to three miles. This range in the
+neighbourhood of Cyrene forms the northern or seaward boundary of a
+belt of table-land about eight miles in breadth, the southern or
+inland boundary of which is a second range of hills parallel to the
+first, and rising about 1,000 feet above the table-land. An upper
+plateau extends many miles inland from the summit of this interior
+range, at an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet above the level of the
+sea.</p>
+
+<p>The lower range is exceedingly steep, and in many parts
+precipitous; so that, except at particular places, it is quite
+impassable. The upper range, on the other hand, although steep, is
+not precipitous, and is intersected by numerous ravines or
+<em>wadys</em> leading from the plateau above. Thus the face of
+this range presents to the eye a succession of rounded ridges, with
+intermediate furrows of various depths. Cyrene stands on the edge
+of the upper plateau, and occupies the summits of two of the ridges
+and the upper part of the intervening furrow.</p>
+
+<p>One of the principal features of this site is this furrow or
+ravine between the two hills on which the city is built. It begins
+near the eastern wall of the city, and widens as it descends
+towards the face of the hills, where it is bridged across, so to
+speak, by a massive retaining wall, behind which it is partially
+filled up and levelled, so as to form an artificial platform. The
+Fountain of Apollo here issues from a passage in the rock on the
+western side, and the water, after traversing the platform, falls
+over the retaining wall into the ravine below.</p>
+
+<p>This copious fountain of delicious water doubtless led the
+original Greek colonists to settle at Cyrene. The excavated channel
+from which it flows is in many respects so remarkable, that it
+deserves more than a cursory notice. The following description,
+which was verified by Captain Porcher, is given by Beechey:—</p>
+
+<p>“The channel is formed entirely in the rock from which the
+stream issues, and runs in an irregular course for nearly a quarter
+of a mile into the bowels of the mountain. The sides and roof of
+the passage are flat, where time and the action of the current
+(which is very strong) have not worn them away; but the bottom is
+encumbered with stones, bedded fast in a quantity of clay which has
+accumulated about it and against the sides. The general height of
+this subterranean channel is scarcely five feet, an elevation which
+we found rather inconvenient, for it obliged us to stoop a good
+deal in advancing; and as it would not have been possible to
+examine the place properly, or, indeed, to have preserved the
+light, without keeping the head and body in an upright position, we
+usually found the water making higher encroaches than its chilling
+cold rendered agreeable.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span>“In some places,
+however, where there appear to have been originally flaws or
+fissures in the rock, the roof was irregular, and there was room to
+stand upright, an occurrence of which we very gladly availed
+ourselves, to the great relief of our knees. We found the average
+width from three to four feet, although in the places just
+mentioned it was occasionally as much as six feet; and were it not
+for the clay which has been collected against the sides, we should
+often have suffered from their roughness. From the irregularity of
+the course of the passage we were obliged to take bearings very
+often, and at each time we stopped for this purpose we took down
+the distance, measured with our chain, between the point we stopped
+at and the last; so that, after much trouble, we succeeded in
+obtaining a tolerably correct plan of the whole. The length and
+course of the channel will be seen in the plan of Cyrene. Within
+forty feet of the end of the channel (that is to say, about 1,300
+feet from its beginning at the foot of the cliff) it becomes so low
+that a man cannot advance further without creeping upon his hands
+and knees, and then finishes in a small aperture scarcely a foot in
+diameter, beyond which, of course, it is impossible to
+penetrate.</p>
+
+<p>“We observed, after continuing our route for some time, that the
+clay which we have already mentioned had been washed down in
+considerable quantities by the current, was occasionally plastered
+against the sides of the passage, and smoothed very carefully with
+the palm of the hand; in this we thought we perceived that
+something like letters had been scratched, which we should scarcely
+have thought it worth while to examine, had we not been curious to
+know what Europeans had visited the place before us. Our first
+conclusion was that some of our own party had taken this method of
+writing their names on the wall; and it never for a moment occurred
+to us, that the characters, whatever they were, which might be
+traced on so perishable a surface, were of more than very recent
+formation. Our surprise may, in consequence, be readily imagined,
+when we found, on a closer examination, that the walls of the place
+were covered with Greek inscriptions; some of which, from their
+dates, must have remained on the wet clay for more than fifteen
+hundred years. They consist, of course, chiefly in a collection of
+names; many of which are Roman, and the earliest of the most
+conspicuous dates, which we remarked and copied, were those of the
+reign of Diocletian. They are, in general, very rudely scratched,
+with a point of any kind (a sword, or a knife, perhaps, or the
+stone of a ring) and often with the point of the fingers.</p>
+
+<p>“Several hours had elapsed from the time of our entering the
+channel to that of our reappearance at its mouth; and we really
+believe that the Arabs of the place, who had collected themselves
+round the fountain to see us come out, were extremely disappointed
+to find that no accident had befallen any of our party, in spite of
+the demons so confidently believed to haunt its dark and mysterious
+recesses. For our own parts, we could not help laughing very
+heartily at the ridiculous appearance which each of us exhibited on
+first coming to the light, covered as we were from head to foot
+with the brown clay accumulated in the channel of the fountain,
+which had adhered too closely to be washed away by the stream,
+although its current, as we have mentioned, was extremely
+rapid.”</p>
+
+<p>The mouth of the channel is in an open chamber cut in the face
+of the cliff, the bottom of which is about five feet lower than the
+bed of the stream, which falls over in a little cascade.
+Immediately above the fall the bottom of the channel is deepened
+and widened so as to form a cavity about six feet long and two feet
+deep. Filled, as it always was, with the clear, cool water of the
+fountain, a more delicious bath could hardly be imagined. It was,
+in fact, a perfect luxury during the long summer of our residence
+at Cyrene. The water was of the uniform temperature of 55°
+Fahrenheit, fresh and cool in summer, and not too cold in
+winter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i12">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 12.</p>
+<a href="images/i12_large.jpg"><img src='images/i12.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The face of the cliff over the entrance to the chambers is
+marked by a channel cut in the rock, into which the pediment of a
+portico appears to have been inserted, as shown in the
+sketch<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> <a href=
+"#i11">Plate 11.</a> On a part of the cliff, at right angles to
+this face, and immediately over the entrance to the fountain is the
+following inscription:—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">LΙΓΔΙΟΝΥΣΙΟΣΣΩΤΑ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ΙΕΡΕΙΤΕΥΩΝΤΑΝΚΡΑΝΑΝ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ΕΠΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ</div>
+
+<div class="line right vsmall"><a href="images/insc1.jpg">[JPG]</a>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">Λιγ Διονύσιος Σώτα ἱερειτεύων τὰν κράναν
+ἐπεσκεύασε. This inscription is published, Böckh, Corpus
+Inscriptionum, III. No. 5134.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i13">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 13.</p>
+<a href="images/i13_large.jpg"><img src='images/i13.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">GENERAL VIEW OF ONE OF THE HILLS IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nearly parallel to the centre ravine, is another bounding the
+city on the south, called the <em>Wady Bil Ghadir</em>, or Valley
+of Verdure, which extends across the lower plateau to the sea.
+Several fountains pour their waters into it at Cyrene, so that even
+in the height of summer it quite justifies the name it bears. Its
+western side, which is very steep and rugged, is clad with fine old
+cypresses, and lower down, the myrtle and oleander grow in
+luxuriant abundance. The form of the city is nearly that of a
+right-angled isosceles triangle, the hypothenuse of which, facing
+the N.W., is formed by the general line of the face of the hills
+overlooking the lower plateau. Of the two sides containing the
+right angle, the southern is formed by the Wady Bil Ghadir, and the
+eastern, by an artificial line on the upper plateau, between the
+Wady Bil Ghadir and the face of the Cyrene range.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i14"><a href="images/i14.jpg"><img src='images/i14.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 14.—Large Tomb at the Eastern End of the
+Northern Necropolis.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>From this description, it will be seen that the city is
+naturally defended on two of its three sides, by a deep rugged
+ravine and the steep faces of a high range of hills. The remaining
+side, the east, is defended by a wall still distinctly traceable,
+the continuation of which is so carried along the edge of the Wady
+Bil Ghadir, and over the brows of the hills into the central
+ravine, where it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span>
+joins the massive retaining wall already mentioned. The
+<em>enceinte</em> being thus completed, the summit of the western
+hill was chosen with great judgment for the citadel. On its
+exterior sides are the Wady Bil Ghadir, several hundred feet deep,
+and the steep face of the hill itself cut into a succession of
+escarps and terraces of rock. Quite unassailable on two of its
+sides, and nearly so on a third, the citadel is cut off from the
+rest of the city by an inner wall of defence, well provided with
+flanking towers, which is carried along the edge of the centre
+ravine and across the hill to the Wady Bil Ghadir, where its
+junction with the main wall of the city is marked by the
+conspicuous ruins of a lofty tower.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i15"><a href="images/i15.jpg"><img src='images/i15.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 15.—Tomb in the Northern Necropolis.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>By far the most striking remains of the former grandeur of the
+city are the cemeteries, which consist, for the most part, of tombs
+hewn out of the solid rock, many of which are still, in very
+perfect condition. They extend for miles in every direction outside
+the walls of the city, but the most remarkable are in the steep
+face of the range of hills overlooking the lower plateau, and in
+the sides of the ravines by which this range is intersected. The
+cemetery in the Wady Bil Ghadir, and on the face of the hill beyond
+it, is the most picturesque, and probably the most ancient, while
+that immediately below the city, to the N. and N.E., is the most
+extensive. The tombs on the upper plateau, to the southward of the
+city, are generally built above ground, except in the sides of
+small ravines, where sepulchres are excavated in the scarped face
+of the rock.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i16">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 16.</p>
+<a href="images/i16_large.jpg"><img src='images/i16.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">RANGE OF TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF
+CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The tombs on the faces of the hills are generally arranged in
+long terraces, the rock being cut or stepped into a series of
+perpendicular escarps in which the tombs are excavated. The roads
+which follow the terraces in front of the escarps, are consequently
+flanked on one side by tombs for a considerable distance from the
+city. Besides these rows or streets of tombs, others occur
+irregularly, where the formation of the rock happens to be adapted
+for their excavation. There<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_29">[29]</span> are some, also, wholly or partially built,
+and on the slopes between the terraces the rock is frequently cut
+into groups of single sarcophagi. The excavated tombs are of almost
+endless variety. In some, the façade is cut out like the front of a
+small temple, with columns, architraves, pediments, &amp;c., nearly
+all of which are of the Doric order. The columns, with the recess
+behind, form a portico over the entrance to the tomb, which
+generally consists of a rectangular chamber, with recesses round
+the sides for the reception of the sarcophagi.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i17">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 17.</p>
+<a href="images/i17_large.jpg"><img src='images/i17.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">INTERIOR OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF
+CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw2">
+<figure id="i18"><a href="images/i18.jpg"><img src='images/i18.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 18.—Tombs to the Westward of Wady Bil
+Ghadir.</p>
+
+<p class="cp3"><em>From a Photograph.</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>In tombs of this description, but without porticoes, the
+entrance is simply a doorway cut in the face of the rock, in some
+instances perfectly plain, in others embellished with lintels and
+pilasters, or with busts, as in <a href="#i19">Plate 19.</a> The
+interior of this one is shown in <a href="#i33">Plate 33,</a> and
+shows that the peculiar form of the chamber depended on the
+soundness of the rock. The chamber itself is usually without
+ornament of any kind, but in many tombs its walls are adorned with
+fresco-painting or carving. The sarcophagi are frequently arranged
+in tiers, in long narrow recesses, with three or four placed
+lengthways in each tier, as shown in Plates <a href="#i20">20</a>
+and <a href="#i32">32.</a> In some cases, the sarcophagus is simply
+a trough, like a horse’s manger, cut longitudinally in a niche in
+the side of the chamber, as shown in the section (Plates <a href=
+"#i17">17</a> and <a href="#i31">31</a>); in others, where the tomb
+consists of a single chamber, or a succession of chambers, without
+recesses or niches, the sarcophagi are either placed on the floor
+or dug out of the rock beneath it, like shallow graves.</p>
+
+<p>The above are the principal varieties of the construction of
+what may be called the <em>chamber</em> tombs.</p>
+
+<p>Among the painted tombs, the only one that remains to exhibit
+the skill of the artist is situated on the side of a ravine, in the
+middle of the Northern Necropolis, and immediately under a range of
+tombs shown in <a href="#i16">Plate 16.</a> The exterior is
+perfectly plain, and contains only a small chamber with a
+sepulchral vault in the centre. All the walls were originally
+covered with paintings; and by the appearance of the colours that
+are still left, and come out, when wetted, as bright as the day
+they were put on, show that the former inhabitants must have
+understood the art to perfection, as the damp of so many centuries
+has not yet obliterated them.</p>
+
+<p>On one side is a procession, composed of thirty-six figures,
+performing a solemn march; some<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_30">[30]</span> having on rich dresses, whilst others are
+covered with very little drapery, giving the idea of the lower
+classes of the people of Cyrene taking their subordinate part in
+the festival. At the head of the painting is a piece of furniture,
+near which are some young people employed in cooking,—no doubt,
+showing what followed their popular festivals. Near the end are
+three mitred people standing near a pedestal, and a table covered
+with crowns and palm-leaves. A number of Greek names are scratched
+over the picture, denoting, probably, the people shown in the
+drawing.</p>
+
+<p>The paintings on the opposite side to this have nearly
+disappeared, and the other two are occupied with hunting scenes,
+and a variety of games.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i19"><a href="images/i19.jpg"><img src='images/i19.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 19.—A Tomb embellished with Figures in the
+Northern Necropolis.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>In one part a deer and hares are seen escaping from dogs, and a
+hunter in the act of letting loose another. Near this there is a
+group of wilder animals, such as a bull attacked by a lion, a
+leopard and gazelle chased by dogs, and spears flying about in all
+directions. These seem to allude to the worship of Diana, one of
+the principal divinities of the Cyrenians.</p>
+
+<p>On the remaining side are gladiators attacking each other with
+short swords, and defended by shields,—boxing, wrestling, and
+chariot-races.</p>
+
+<p>These last may be particularly noticed, as the Cyrenians were
+extremely eminent for their equestrian talents, and especially for
+their skill in charioteering; and seem to have excelled all the
+neighbouring nations so much in this sport, that they sought to
+perpetuate their fame by having their coins struck with them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i20">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 20.</p>
+<a href="images/i20_large.jpg"><img src='images/i20.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">TOMB FOR 105 SARCOPHAGI IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS
+OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>All these paintings were published by Pacho, as well as others
+that have now disappeared; and, to give the reader some idea of how
+these tombs were formerly ornamented, and the expense the
+inhabitants must have incurred to embellish this city of their
+dead, we will give a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>
+short account of one that was seen both by Pacho and Beechey. A
+series of paintings were found on the metopes of the frieze in the
+interior, and the walls were coloured light green, making the
+chamber appear as though it was intended more for a habitation for
+the living than a receptacle for the dead. These appear to have
+been the different occupations of a black slave. First, a friendly
+conversation; then the education of a young girl; the pride of
+dress; the relaxation of the swing; the bath, so necessary in this
+warm climate; and, lastly, the death-bed on which the negress is
+laid, with her eyes closed, and the white Cyrenian standing by her
+side in the attitude of grief, lamenting her decease.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i21">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 21.</p>
+<a href="images/i21_large.jpg"><img src='images/i21.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">INTERIOR OF A PAINTED TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>By the description of these two tombs the reader can easily
+understand what a magnificent necropolis this must formerly have
+been; and when the exteriors, as well as the interiors, were
+ornamented with sculpture, combined with the beautiful scenery
+around, the traveller would have been well repaid by a visit to
+it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i22"><a href="images/i22.jpg"><img src='images/i22.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 22.—Interior of a Tomb in the Northern
+Necropolis.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>In <a href="#i21">Plate 21</a> is shown the interior of a tomb
+in the Northern Necropolis, where the painting is still very
+perfect and the colours bright.</p>
+
+<p>In <a href="#i17">Plate 17</a> is a highly ornamented tomb
+adjoining the Kenissieh, with the height of eleven feet. The shells
+over three of the sarcophagi are cut out of the solid rock, and are
+in as good a state of preservation as when they were first
+sculptured. The niche on the right and the nearest to the entrance
+was ornamented round the arch with a band of bright vermilion, and
+the centre filled up with garlands, birds, and three figures, the
+centre and largest one with wings.</p>
+
+<p>In <a href="#i22">Plate 22</a> is seen a smaller tomb, also with
+shells more gracefully shaped, and equally in as good a state of
+preservation.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span>Quarries were met
+with in many places, and these, after the buildings in the vicinity
+had been erected, and when no longer required, were also converted
+into tombs, according to the general practice of the Greeks.
+<a href="#i23">Plate 23</a> shows the interior of one that has been
+used for this purpose, situated on the upper part of the hill in
+the Northern Necropolis. It had a large chamber measuring 27½ feet
+in length, and 13 feet in breadth.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i23"><a href="images/i23.jpg"><img src='images/i23.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 23.—Interior of a Tomb cut in the Side of a
+Quarry in the Northern Necropolis.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>A class, perhaps not less numerous, consists of tombs without
+chambers, the sarcophagus recesses being cut directly into the face
+of the rock. These recesses, which contain several tiers of
+sarcophagi, like those already described (Plates <a href=
+"#i20">20</a> and <a href="#i32">32</a>), run into the rock
+perpendicular to the line of the escarp, or nearly so. Each tomb
+consists of from one to ten or twelve such recesses, separated from
+each other by thin partitions. Their fronts are quite as varied as
+those of the chamber ones, some being perfectly plain, while others
+have the ends of the partitions made to represent columns or
+pilasters, surmounted by architrave, frieze, and cornice. In some
+tombs of this description, where the rock fails, the <em>Order</em>
+is completed with masonry. In the western cemetery, many of these
+<em>recess</em> tombs, if we may so call them, are provided with
+porticoes like those already mentioned, and consequently have an
+outer façade with columns, and an inner one with pilasters, like
+the front of a Greek temple. The inner façades, not being exposed
+to the action of the weather, are still in an almost perfect state
+of preservation. Even in the minutest detail of the architecture
+they are finished with the greatest care and nicety, the fluting of
+the pilasters, the moulding of the cornice, &amp;c., having that
+peculiarly delicate sharpness for which the buildings of the Greeks
+are so remarkable. <a href="#i37">Plate 37</a> represents one of
+these internal façades, showing the colours as they still
+exist.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i24">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 24.</p>
+<a href="images/i24_large.jpg"><img src='images/i24.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">INTERIOR OF A LARGE TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS
+OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i25">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 25.</p>
+<a href="images/i25_large.jpg"><img src='images/i25.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">TOMBS IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span>In tombs of all
+kinds the entrances to the chambers, and the openings of the
+recesses, have been closed by single slabs of stone, either quite
+plain or panelled like a door.</p>
+
+<p>The tombs are as various in size as in design. In some, the
+chamber is not more than six feet square, and hardly high enough to
+stand upright in, while others may be found with a total length of
+seventy, and a height of from ten to fifteen feet.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i26"><a href="images/i26.jpg"><img src='images/i26.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 26.—Tombs in the Northern Necropolis (called
+by the Arabs “Kenissieh”).</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of this length is shown in Plates <a href="#i24">24</a> and
+<a href="#i35">35,</a> which was the longest we saw for a single
+tomb. A short distance from this one, higher up the hill, and
+flanking the path that led to Marsa Sousah, was a much more
+extensive range of tombs, which were called by the Arabs the
+Kenissieh, and seems from the great number of sarcophagi to have
+been used as a public cemetery. A plan of the interior has been
+given by Pacho, and the exterior is shown in <a href="#i26">Plate
+26,</a> and extended to a much greater depth into the side of the
+hill, as it measured 128 feet by 68 feet in breadth. In the
+interior we found a large marble sarcophagus, and two marble
+pedestals with the following inscriptions:—</p>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t033">
+<tr>
+<td>ΑΡΓΕΙΟΣ</td>
+<td>ΑΓΑΘΟΚΛΕ</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>ΕΝΙΟΣ</td>
+<td>LΚ</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>ΑΡΓΕΙΟΣ</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>ΔΕΙΝ</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="vsmall tdr"><a href="images/insc2.jpg">[JPG]</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The <em>built</em> tombs are constructed on the same principles
+as the excavated ones. The greater number of them contain two
+compartments, similar to the recesses, with four sarcophagi in two
+tiers in each compartment (Plates <a href="#i28">28</a> and
+<a href="#i36">36</a>); but many other kinds occur, some of which
+are of great size. Unlike the rock tombs, which from their nature
+are almost indestructible, most of these are now in ruins.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span>Fewer inscriptions
+exist in the tombs than might have been expected. Those which we
+found were generally only a list of names.</p>
+
+<p>The sites of the cemeteries seem to have been chosen with great
+care, as they occupy many of the finest positions around the city.
+Those on the faces of the hills command a magnificent view of the
+lower plateau, bounded in the distance by the sea. One of these is
+shown in <a href="#i27">Plate 27.</a> It is situated to the
+westward of the Temple of Apollo, and immediately below the theatre
+in that quarter, and had the finest external façade. It was
+originally ornamented by a colonnade of six pillars, 75 feet in
+length, and by its size and finish was doubtless intended for some
+family of importance. The principal room measured 41 feet by 37
+feet, with a height of 15 feet, and in it were found fragments of
+marble sarcophagi, with elaborate bas-reliefs. It is now used by
+the Arabs as a large granary for their corn, and has lost some of
+its beauty in consequence of the falling away of the middle part of
+the colonnade from the rock to which it was joined. The ravines,
+also, which have been selected are remarkable for their picturesque
+beauty. On the upper plateau, to the southward and eastward of the
+city, where most of the built tombs are to be found, every
+undulation of the surface is taken advantage of. In addition to the
+large cemeteries in the more immediate neighbourhood of the city,
+the roads in all directions are flanked by tombs for several miles,
+like the Via Appia, at Rome.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i27"><a href="images/i27.jpg"><img src='images/i27.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 27.—Large Tomb on the Face of the Western Hill
+of Cyrene.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The various plans and sketches we have given will, it is hoped,
+enable the reader to form a pretty accurate idea of the appearance
+of these truly wonderful cemeteries. In regard to extent, variety,
+and wonderful preservation, the Necropolis of Cyrene, as a whole,
+is probably quite unrivalled.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i28">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 28.</p>
+<a href="images/i28_large.jpg"><img src='images/i28.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">BUILT TOMB ON THE SOUTH-WEST SIDE OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Of the city itself very little remains to be seen. A few walls
+cropping a foot or two above the surface of the ground, and some
+broken columns, mutilated statues, and blocks of stone
+strewn<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> about in
+different places, are almost the only objects that attract the
+attention of the traveller on first walking over the site of the
+city; but many traces of former buildings are discovered on a more
+minute examination of the ground. As already stated, a central
+valley traverses the city from south-east to north-west, dividing
+it into two portions, the Eastern and Western. Of the two, although
+nearly equal in extent, the Western contains by far the greater
+number of remains of ancient buildings; but the part of the city
+most thickly covered with ruins is the artificial platform at the
+mouth of the ravine, in front of the Fountain of Apollo. On the
+south-eastern side of the city, around the head of the valley, the
+ground is covered with ruins of a much later period. Their general
+style and appearance leave little doubt of their being the remains
+of the Christian city of Cyrene, in the time of the Byzantine
+empire.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i29">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 29.</p>
+<a href="images/i29_large.jpg"><img src='images/i29.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">RUINS OF THE CHRISTIAN CITY OF CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>We shall presently have occasion to describe the remains of the
+principal buildings, in giving an account of our excavations.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the ancient roads can be easily traced for several miles
+from the city. The one to Apollonia, the seaport of Cyrene, is
+quite distinct the whole way, a distance of about twelve miles.
+Passing the city wall on the side of the eastern hill, opposite the
+Fountain of Apollo, it descends to the lower plateau by a uniform
+incline about two miles in length, through the north-eastern
+cemetery, on the face of the range. For the greater part of the
+descent it is made by cutting into the side of the hill, the escarp
+thus formed being taken advantage of for the excavation of tombs,
+as already explained. Where a sufficient width is not obtained by
+simply cutting into the rock, the road is widened by embanking and
+revetting the lower side. In the descent of the lower range, the
+road is similarly constructed. Great skill is shown by the way in
+which it is laid out, so as to reduce the steepness of the gradient
+as much as possible. Another road, similar in every respect to this
+one, leaves the city at the large retaining wall at the mouth of
+the centre Wady, and descends to the lower plateau along the face
+of the western hill. Many roads also exist on the comparatively
+level ground of the upper plateau. Of these, the most important is
+the one by which we first approached the city, and which, without
+doubt, was the great highway of the west leading to Barca,
+Ptolemais, Teuchira, and Berenice. It enters the city by a gateway
+in the southern wall, near the head of the Wady Bil Ghadir. But
+perhaps the most remarkable road, if we consider the care and
+labour shown in its construction, is the one leading down the Wady
+Bil Ghadir, and along the face of the hills to the westward of the
+city. It leaves the city by the gate of the western road; whence,
+after making a sudden bend to the north, it follows the bottom of
+the Wady to near its mouth. In one place, where the bottom of the
+ravine is very narrow, the rock is cut away like a wall on each
+side to make room for the road. At this point, and at intervals
+lower down, may be seen the remains of an aqueduct cut in the rock
+to convey the water of the various fountains in the valley round
+the face of the citadel hill. It could not possibly have led to the
+city itself, and was therefore most probably made for the
+irrigation of gardens on a lower level. The greater part of it is
+an open conduit cut in the face of the rock; but at some points it
+is cut like a small tunnel.</p>
+
+<p>On the south of the citadel, where the ravine approaches the
+face of the range, its bed falls abruptly to the level of the lower
+plateau, causing the stream from the fountains above to pour over
+the rocks in a succession of waterfalls. The road, which to this
+point had followed the bottom of the Wady, had consequently to be
+turned to the left along the face of the hill, which at this corner
+becomes a sheer precipice both above and below. The road is carried
+round it by means of a huge retaining wall built up to the proper
+level from the bottom of the cliff. It is still nearly perfect
+throughout its entire length, except at the end in the ravine,
+where a few of the stones have been displaced. About the middle of
+the wall, the cliff recedes some 30 or 40 feet, and as the wall is
+carried straight across, a platform of considerable size is thereby
+formed. Here a copious fountain of delicious water issues from a
+cavity in the face of the cliff,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_36">[36]</span> from which a small aqueduct cut in the rock
+runs along the side of the road for several miles. Close to the
+fountain it was formerly hollowed out into a series of troughs, so
+arranged that, by the overflow of each passing to the next, they
+were always full,—a slight indication of the attention paid by the
+Cyrenians to the wants of the horses, for which their country was
+so celebrated. One can easily fancy the citizens of Cyrene halting
+in their evening drives at this beautiful spot to water their
+horses and enjoy the extensive view of the magnificent scenery
+around. On one hand is the high and rugged face of the cliff
+overhanging the ravine below; on the other the steep hill of Cyrene
+rising from the beautiful valley of verdure at its base; while far
+below lies the varied surface of the lower plateau, stretching away
+for miles to the dark blue line of sea beyond.</p>
+
+<p>The following graphic description of this scene is given by
+Beechey:—</p>
+
+<p>“The steep sides of the descent are thickly overgrown with the
+most beautiful flowering shrubs and creepers, and tall trees are
+growing in the wildest forms and positions above and below the
+roads. The Duke of Clarence (when the choice of his death was
+proposed to him) had a fancy to be drowned in a butt of Malmsey:
+and we think, if we found ourselves in a similar dilemma, that we
+should pitch upon some part of this charming ravine, as the spot
+from which we could hurl ourselves through myrtles and oleanders
+into the pure stream which dashes below, with more pleasure than
+one could leap with from life into death in most other places that
+we know of. We must, however, confess that, in passing along the
+dangerous parts of the galleries here alluded to, no such fancy
+ever entered our heads; and we took especial care, notwithstanding
+the beauty of the descent, to keep closer to the high rock on one
+side of the road than to the edge of the charming precipice on the
+other.”</p>
+
+<p>From this point the road winds along the face of the hill
+towards the westward, gradually descending to the level of the
+plain. Near the platform it is flanked on the left by a most
+picturesque row of excavated tombs, the interior façade of one is
+given in <a href="#i37">Plate 37.</a> Before reaching the plain,
+the road crosses a small ravine, which contains a larger number of
+highly finished tombs than any other part of the Necropolis. One of
+them, published by Beechey, had a suite of allegorical figures
+painted on the metopes of the inner façade; but on visiting it we
+were much disappointed to find the beautiful front completely
+destroyed, the whole of the entablature being roughly cut away,
+evidently for the purpose of obtaining the paintings.<a id=
+"FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It
+is to be hoped that they at least were safely removed, and that
+this beautiful tomb was not destroyed altogether in vain. It is,
+doubtless, right and proper that the remains of ancient art brought
+to light by excavation, or which, from their position, are liable
+at any moment to destruction, should be removed to a place of
+safety, where they may be studied and admired; but it is certainly
+carrying out this practice to an unwarrantable extent to destroy a
+beautiful structure that has survived the ravages of two thousand
+years, for the sake of what by itself is of comparatively little
+value.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i30">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 30.</p>
+<a href="images/i30_large.jpg"><img src='images/i30.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">WADY MŬCHGŬN, TWO MILES TO THE WESTWARD OF
+CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i31">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF AN ORNAMENTED AND PAINTED TOMB IN THE NORTHERN
+NECROPOLIS.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 31.</p>
+<a href="images/i31_large.jpg"><img src='images/i31.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i32">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS, CAPABLE OF HOLDING 105
+SARCOPHAGI.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 32.</p>
+<a href="images/i32_large.jpg"><img src='images/i32.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i33">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 33.</p>
+<a href="images/i33_large.jpg"><img src='images/i33.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr"><em>Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i34">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 34.</p>
+<a href="images/i34_large.jpg"><img src='images/i34.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i35">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF A TOMB IN THE NORTHERN NECROPOLIS.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 35.</p>
+<a href="images/i35_large.jpg"><img src='images/i35.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubr"><em>Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i36">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF A BUILT TOMB ON THE S.W. SIDE OF THE CITY.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 36.</p>
+<a href="images/i36_large.jpg"><img src='images/i36.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw2">
+<figure id="i37">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 37.</p>
+<a href="images/i37_large.jpg"><img src='images/i37.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by Day
+& Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street Lincoln’s
+Inn Fields.</p>
+
+<p class="cp1">ELEVATION OF THE INTERNAL FACADE OF A TOMB IN THE
+WESTERN NECROPOLIS OF CYRENE.<br>
+Shewing the Colours as they now exist, by Commander E. A. Porcher
+R.N.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>About a mile from the face of the range, the Wady Bil Ghadir is
+joined in the lower plateau by the continuation of the central
+ravine of the city. The space thereby enclosed is an almost
+perfectly level plain, about a mile in length and three-quarters of
+a mile in breadth. The soil is exceedingly rich, and yields at the
+present day the finest crops of grain in the country. Spread like a
+map at the base of the hills, directly in front of the city, it
+seems specially suited for a large ornamental garden, and was most
+probably laid out as such by the inhabitants of Cyrene. It lies
+immediately below the Fountain of Apollo, and an aqueduct, as we
+have already mentioned, conveyed to it the stream from the
+fountains of the Wady Bil Ghadir; so that there was a sufficient
+supply of water available for its irrigation even during the
+droughts of summer. It is, moreover, protected by the high hills of
+Cyrene from the scorching blast of the <em>Gibli</em>—a wind from
+the desert<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span> that not
+unfrequently destroys all the vegetation exposed to it. With its
+trees and flowers thus perpetually refreshed and protected, it must
+have formed one of the most pleasing features in the beautiful
+landscape seen from the city and terraces above.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the Wady Bil Ghadir, two other ravines in the immediate
+neighbourhood of Cyrene are remarkable for the picturesque grandeur
+of their scenery, the Wady Mûchgûn to the west, and the Wady
+Leboaitha to the east of the city. The former, the widest and
+deepest Wady in the range, is filled with fine old olive-trees,
+many of which are covered in summer with clusters of
+honeysuckle.</p>
+
+<p>The upper plateau around Cyrene is destitute of trees. Hardly a
+shrub is to be seen in this direction within three or four miles of
+the city. Grass, however, grows luxuriantly, so that the surface of
+the ground, except during the heat of summer, quite resembles the
+green sward of old pasture-land in England.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i38"><a href="images/i38.jpg"><img src='images/i38.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 38.—Tombs on the Western Side of Wady Bil
+Ghadir.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The comparatively limited scope of the present work not
+admitting of further illustration, the reader is referred to the
+archives of the British Museum for other interesting details of
+this Necropolis.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_38">[38]</span><a id="c07"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">HAVING fairly established ourselves in our
+sepulchral residence, and made every arrangement for our future
+comfort that the means at our disposal rendered possible, we began
+to examine the remains of the city. Our attention was at first
+specially directed to the tombs, in which we hoped to discover
+small ornaments, vases, terra-cotta figures, and other
+<em>portable</em> objects. We were greatly assisted during our
+first rambles over the ruins by an Arab of considerable influence
+in the Cyrenaica, Mohammed El Adouly. He was a native of Benghazi,
+but having married the daughter of one of the Sheikhs of the Haasa
+tribe, who occupy the country in the neighbourhood of Cyrene, he
+kept his flocks, and spent the greater part of the year, in that
+district. One of the letters given us by the Sheikhs assembled at
+the Consulate was addressed to him, and Mr. Crowe, with whom he was
+well acquainted, had also sent him a special message regarding us.
+The day after our arrival at Cyrene he paid us a long visit,
+bringing with him the welcome present of a camel-load of milk and
+butter. He proved our constant friend during the whole time of our
+residence in the country, and on many occasions was of great
+service to us. Not being entangled in the perpetual feuds of the
+rival tribes around us, he was equally respected by all, so that we
+could hardly have had a safer friend. He was, besides, a man of
+much shrewdness and intelligence, and had profited greatly by his
+travels in early life. He had more than once been engaged in slave
+expeditions to Mourzook and Soudan, and had visited Constantinople,
+Alexandria, and Malta. He was withal a good Mussulman, although he
+confessed to having in his younger days been latitudinarian in his
+conduct, if not in his creed. In person he was a man of immense
+size, and had altogether a most imposing appearance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw2">
+<figure id="i39"><a href="images/i39.jpg"><img src='images/i39.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 39.—Mohammed El Adouly.</p>
+
+<p class="cp3"><em>From a Photograph.</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The day immediately after his first visit he returned to show us
+the “lions” of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span>
+place. After we had seen a few of the tombs in the north-eastern
+cemetery, he took us to the hill beyond the Wady Bil Ghadir, where
+he showed us an excavated tomb in which a number of objects had
+been discovered by M. Bourville. It was a large square chamber cut
+in the rock, with the ruins of some kind of building in front: two
+marble statues without heads were lying near it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i40">
+<p class="cp1">PLAN OF CYRENE</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 40.</p>
+<a href="images/i40_large.jpg"><img src='images/i40.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>As every <em>open</em> tomb had doubtless been rifled long ago,
+we were anxious, if possible, to discover some under the surface of
+the soil, in the hope that they might still remain intact. In many
+of those cut in the scarped sides of the hills we found the fronts
+partially covered by the earth washed down from above, and
+therefore thought it probable that others existed which had been
+wholly covered. We accordingly looked for a place where such tombs
+were likely to be found, and at last chose, as the most promising
+spot, a heap of ruins lying against an artificial escarp near the
+tomb opened by M. Bourville.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, the 27th of December, we commenced our
+excavations at this place. At first the work went on but slowly,
+owing to the inexperience of the blacks, who were quite ignorant of
+the use of the tools, which they now handled for the first time in
+their lives. For some time, therefore, we had to do the most of the
+digging ourselves. Although it may seem a very simple matter to
+teach an able-bodied man to use a pickaxe and a shovel, it is a
+much more tedious process than may be supposed. As every railway
+contractor knows, a “navvy” has to serve a good long apprenticeship
+before he is fit to take his place in a regular gang of
+excavators.</p>
+
+<p>Our great difficulty, however, with the blacks was to make them
+understand the use of a crowbar. When a stone was too heavy to
+lift, or was so placed that it could not be rolled, their only
+resource was to try to break it. It was long before we could get
+them to see the power of the lever, and still longer before they
+could apply it themselves. After five days’ hard work, in clearing
+away the ruins of the building from the face of the escarp, we
+reached the rock at the bottom, about twelve feet below the
+original surface, but without finding an entrance as we had
+expected. As it was evident that nothing was to be discovered here,
+we left this place on the 1st of January, 1861, and removed to a
+rock-tomb in the Wady Bil Ghadir, where the absence of any remains
+of buildings made the work much easier. After a day and a half’s
+digging we came to a doorway, five or six feet below the surface,
+closed by a single slab of stone, of which one of the upper corners
+was broken away sufficiently to allow a man to enter. Inside we
+found a plain square chamber with recesses, partially filled with
+the earth that had been washed in through the doorway. It was
+impossible to enter the chamber without breaking the long, thin
+stalactites which covered the roof and almost touched the floor.
+Nothing, however, remained either in the chamber or the recesses—a
+result fatal to our hopes of discoveries in the tombs, as it proved
+that this one, at least, had been rifled, not recently, but before
+it became buried, a sufficient period having afterwards elapsed to
+allow the formation of the stalactites. This being the case, we
+concluded that other tombs, even if now covered with earth, had
+probably shared the same fate.</p>
+
+<p>For this reason we abandoned the tombs, and turned our attention
+to the remains of buildings within the walls of the city. After a
+careful examination of several places, we chose a prominent site
+near the southern gate, marked in the plan “Temple of Bacchus.” In
+the centre of a large oblong platform, enclosed by a massive
+colonnade and a well-built <em>peribolus</em> wall, the position of
+the temple itself was marked by a low mound of earth, with a few
+blocks of stone and marble showing here and there above the
+surface. The exterior of the two side-walls of the temple had been
+partially laid bare by a former excavator, M. Bourville, as the
+Arabs informed us. Part of the gateway in the southern
+<em>peribolus</em> wall is still standing, and is one of the most
+conspicuous objects in Cyrene. The ruins of the colonnade, which is
+of the Doric order, are nearly all above ground.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span>We began work at
+this temple on the afternoon of the 2nd, by digging along the
+outside of the western wall. The earth was filled with fragments of
+pottery and blocks of stone belonging to the building. Among the
+latter were portions of a frieze with triglyphs, a proof that the
+temple was of the Doric order. The stone was the same as in almost
+all the buildings in Cyrene,—a friable yellow sandstone, containing
+a great many fossil shells.</p>
+
+<p>After finishing a trench along the western side, we began to dig
+inside the temple at the western end, going gradually eastward. We
+were soon rewarded for our labour by the discovery of a very
+perfect marble statue of life size. The head and both hands were
+gone, but otherwise the figure was uninjured, the surface being
+almost without a scratch. It was lying on the floor of the temple
+near the north-western corner, about four or five feet underground.
+Two days afterwards the figure was all but completed by the
+discovery of the head and left hand, near the same place. The head,
+that of a youth, wreathed with grapes and vine-leaves, and the hand
+holding a cluster of grapes, at once identified the statue, as one
+of Bacchus. The drapery falling from the left shoulder across the
+right knee left the greater part of the figure nude. This statue is
+given in <a href="#i61">Plate 61.</a> The first thing to be thought
+of was its immediate removal to a place of safety, as the Arabs, in
+their hatred of images, would have considered its destruction a
+very meritorious act. But how to transport it without tackle or
+other mechanical appliances was rather puzzling. Meantime we
+pitched a tent close by, in which the blacks were stationed to act
+as a guard, while we made preparations for the work of removal.
+Carrying it was out of the question, owing to its great size and
+weight; and no vehicle, however rude, existed in the country.
+Having finally fixed on a sledge as the only means available, we
+went to a wood on the side of the hill beyond the north-eastern
+cemetery to look for a tree that would answer the purpose. We
+selected a good large cedar, which we felled, after a hard day’s
+work, with small hatchets, our only felling-axe having been lost or
+stolen during the journey from Benghazi. We then trimmed the trunk
+and lower branches into a very serviceable sort of sledge, the
+under side being cut as smooth as possible, and grooves made in it
+for the lashings. We also cut some spars to use as levers. With
+these and the coil of small rope we had brought from Malta we set
+to work the following day. By placing slings under the shoulders of
+the statue, and heaving on them with the spars, we got the figure
+into an upright position. The sledge, well covered with mats, was
+then lashed firmly to its back, care being taken to have the
+lashings well padded, to prevent their chafing the surface of the
+marble. The sledge, with the statue attached, was then gradually
+lowered by means of the spars, and a drag-rope made fast to it. By
+dint of hauling and shouting we got about halfway to our tomb
+before dark, when we again pitched the tent and set the guard for
+the night. Next day we tried the experiment of yoking in a camel,
+which proved quite successful. In the course of the forenoon the
+statue was safely deposited in our kitchen, where it was afterwards
+covered with a tent and walled up. We were not sorry when our
+labour was over, as, notwithstanding every contrivance for saving
+our hands, they had got sadly torn and blistered.</p>
+
+<p>We completed the excavation of the temple in nineteen days.
+Besides the Bacchus, we found two small marble statuettes, and a
+leopard in stone, rather smaller than life, with a collar of
+vine-leaves, but saw no inscriptions. The temple, very small in
+size, had no <em>pteron</em>, and consisted only of a
+<em>cella</em> and <em>pronaos</em>, or <em>portico</em>. The
+front, which was towards the east, contained four columns, the two
+outer of which were engaged in the lateral walls. At the western
+end of the <em>cella</em> there was a built pedestal, about two
+feet in height, on which without doubt the statue stood. The whole
+of the interior bore traces of having been faced and paved with
+thin slabs of marble.</p>
+
+<p>On the 21st of January we removed to the place marked on the
+plan of the city immediately above the theatre, on the side of the
+road leading up the centre ravine. There were several broken
+statues lying on the surface, and another was uncovered in the
+course of our<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span>
+excavations, but as they were all of late date and inferior style,
+we did not think them worth the trouble of removal. We also came on
+the bases of some unfluted marble columns <em>in situ</em>, but
+were unable to follow up the line thus pointed out, owing to the
+surrounding ground being sown with barley. While digging at this
+place, we turned up a great many thick, square, flat tiles, with
+which we paved part of the floor of our tomb.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i41">
+<p class="cp1">PLAN OF<br>
+CYRENE<br>
+To shew the positions from which the plans<br>
+and Sketches were made</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 41.</p>
+<a href="images/i41_large.jpg"><img src='images/i41.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the 31st of the month we commenced the excavation of the
+building in front of the fountain, marked on the plan “Temple of
+Apollo.” Although the form of the building could be easily traced,
+very little of it remained above ground. We began by clearing out,
+down to the level of the pavement, the space between the columns
+and the wall of the <em>cella</em> along the western and northern
+sides, on both of which we found parts of the columns <em>in
+situ</em> and fragments of the entablature, all of the Doric order.
+The stone was the same as that of the Temple of Bacchus. The
+building is particularly mentioned by Beechey, who supposed it to
+be the Temple of Diana. We were inclined, however, from the first
+to consider it the Temple of Apollo, on account of its commanding
+position immediately in front of the fountain; and our opinion was
+confirmed before we commenced its excavation, by finding two
+inscriptions among the ruins, both of which referred to that
+deity.</p>
+
+<p>Our space for digging was very limited, all the surrounding
+ground, and even the eastern half of the temple itself, being
+covered with crops of grain. We would, willingly have bought them
+up, but found it impossible to do so, owing to the strong religious
+feeling of the Arabs, who regard the fruits of the soil as the
+immediate gift of God, and would resent their destruction as an act
+of sacrilege. The soil, once it has received the seed, becomes
+sacred, and can no more be desecrated by the excavator than a Greek
+church or a Turkish burial-ground.</p>
+
+<p>After digging along the west and north sides as far as we could
+for the crops, we commenced inside the <em>cella</em>, at the
+north-west corner. Cramped as we were for want of space, we were
+obliged to throw the <em>deblai</em>, as we proceeded, into the
+trench we had already excavated outside. The first object we found
+was a small draped female statue, unbroken, about 3 feet 6 inches
+in height. A few days afterwards we discovered a colossal statue of
+Apollo himself, lying on the floor of the temple, about ten feet
+below the surface of the ground. The head was broken off, and the
+body in three pieces; but as the fractures were clean and sharp,
+and their edges unchipped, we hoped that the whole figure might
+afterwards be put together without difficulty. When this was
+actually done, after the arrival of the sculptures in England, the
+parts were all found to fit each other so accurately that the
+fractures were barely perceptible. The trunk of the tree, the lyre,
+the serpent, the bow and quiver, and some of the folds of the
+drapery, were found piecemeal, in a great many fragments, which we
+collected carefully. The statue, as it now stands, without the
+slightest restoration, in the British Museum, is built up of no
+less than 121 separate pieces. A Photograph of it is given in
+<a href="#i62">Plate 62.</a> Near it was a large square pedestal on
+which it had once stood.</p>
+
+<p>Its removal to our tomb proved a most tedious and difficult
+operation, on account not only of the great weight of each of the
+three parts, and the depth at which they were discovered, but also
+of the very tender way in which they had to be handled to prevent
+the thin sharp edges of the fractures from being chipped and
+bruised. Our troubles were increased by the conduct of the blacks,
+who thought this a favourable opportunity for advancing the most
+extravagant claims for remuneration. Some ridiculous notions had
+been put into their heads by the Arabs, during our absence for a
+few days at Derna. All our appeals and offers of a compromise were
+rejected; and as we would not yield to their absurd pretensions,
+they went off, and left us to get the Apollo to our tomb without
+them. As this was impossible, we were reduced to the necessity of
+reburying the statue to protect it from the Arabs. Our good
+fortune, however, had not deserted us. Two days afterwards, three
+negroes, sent by Mr. Crowe, arrived from Benghazi, and we were
+enabled<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> to resume
+work. With their assistance and that of some of our Arab friends,
+we deposited the Apollo in safety in our tomb, after several days’
+very hard work. The sledge was used as before, and a camel yoked in
+to help us to drag it. On the former occasion, when the road was
+pretty smooth, and for the most part down-hill, the camel did very
+well; now, however, the road was rough and all up-hill, and as the
+camel, although an excellent beast of burden, was quite
+unaccustomed to pulling, he would do nothing when he found he could
+not walk away with the load easily. We had, consequently, to unyoke
+him, and drag the sledge, foot by foot, ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>Our new labourers, with whom the work of instruction had, of
+course, to be recommenced, remained till the 20th of April, when
+they had to leave us for harvest-work at Benghazi. We then tried
+some Arabs, but were soon glad to get rid of them, as they gave us
+a great deal of trouble and did very little work. By this time,
+however, we had completed the excavation of the temple, nearly as
+far as our space allowed. We accordingly proposed to spend a few
+weeks in making excursions to different parts of the country, and
+to resume operations at Cyrene after the end of the harvest.</p>
+
+<p>It was evident from the first that many of the ruins at the
+Temple of Apollo were of much later date than the building itself.
+The <em>Cella</em> was full of rubble walls and arches, roughly
+built of the materials of the more ancient building; and the
+eastern half was paved with coarse mosaic, about nine feet above
+the original floor of the temple, and, consequently, only two or
+three below the surface of the ground. Under this pavement there
+was a horizontal layer of broken columns resting on others which
+stood in rows on the floor of the temple.</p>
+
+<p>Near the middle of the <em>Cella</em>, a draped male statue,
+about seven feet in height, but broken in two, was found lying on
+the tesselated pavement (<a href="#i63">Plate 63</a>). The head,
+which was of a separate piece from the body, from which it could be
+removed at pleasure, fitted into a socket,—a somewhat barbarous
+expedient for making the statue of a deceased emperor do duty as
+his living successor’s, after the simple change of the head and the
+name. Close to the statue we found a broken marble pedestal, on
+which the following fragment of an inscription could be
+deciphered.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">αὐτ]οκράτορα [Καίσ]αρ[α</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">Τρ]αϊανὸν Ἀ[δριαν]ὸν</div>
+
+<div class="line indent2">Σε]βασ[τόν.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>It may be presumed from this inscription that the statue
+represents the Emperor Hadrian. We also found on this spot a large
+marble slab, on which was the inscription, <a href="#i84">No.
+26.</a> We removed it to our tomb, like the others, by means of the
+sledge. Imbedded in the earth, between the feet of the statue, we
+found a head of Minerva, rather smaller than life, quite uninjured,
+with the single exception of the point of the helmet, which was a
+little broken. (<em>See</em> <a href="#i64">Plate 64.</a>)</p>
+
+<p>In the same part of the temple as the Apollo, that is, in the
+western half of the <em>Cella</em>, we found a head life-size,
+identified by an inscription as the portrait of Cnæus Cornelius
+Lentulus Marcellinus, the first Roman proprætor of Cyrene.
+(<em>See</em> <a href="#i65">Plate 65.</a>) The inscription
+(<a href="#i77">No. 1</a>) was cut on the face of a square block of
+marble, on which stood a square pedestal, 10 inches broad and 5
+feet high, having at the top a deep socket, into which the head was
+fitted. The back of the head was cut flat, as if it had rested
+against a wall.</p>
+
+<p>As our workmen had all left, we were unable at this time to
+complete the excavation of the interior of the <em>Cella</em>. The
+whole of the eastern half, between the mosaic pavement and the
+floor, we had to leave untouched, until the month of August. One of
+the most remarkable things which we then discovered was a bronze
+portrait head, in an excellent state of preservation (<a href=
+"#i66">Plate 66</a>), lying on the original floor of the temple, 11
+feet beneath the mosaic pavement. Near it were some small bronze
+fragments of horses, &amp;c., very much injured, as if by fire;
+several terra-cotta<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span>
+lamps, and a quantity of fragments of gold-leaf mixed up with the
+earth. We also discovered several marble heads of different sizes,
+a number of inscriptions, eight small statues, varying from 2½ to 4
+feet in height, and part of a leg of a colossal statue of very fine
+style. Of the small statues the most remarkable were a figure of
+Jupiter Ammon, a group representing the nymph Cyrene strangling a
+lion, and a huntress, probably Diana Venatrix, accompanied by a
+dog.</p>
+
+<p>The temple was of the usual form and construction, although it
+might be remarked that its length was somewhat great in proportion
+to its breadth, and that the entrance was not in the west but in
+the east front. In these two respects, however, we found all the
+temples of Cyrene which we examined, alike. The entrance being in
+this position, the statue of the deity must have been placed at the
+west end facing the east, contrary to the following recommendation
+of Vitruvius: “The temples of the gods should be so placed that the
+statue, which has its station in the <em>Cella</em>, should, if
+there be nothing to interfere with such a disposition, face the
+west, in order that those who come to make oblations and offer
+sacrifices, may face the east when their view is directed toward
+the statue; and those who come to impose upon themselves the
+performance of vows, may have the temple and the east immediately
+before them. Thus the statue they regard will appear as if rising
+from the east and looking down on the suppliants.”<a id=
+"FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_44">[44]</span><a id="c08"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">WHEN our workmen left us, and the excavations were
+stopped in the end of April, we had a considerable collection of
+valuable sculptures in our tomb, but were still uncertain whether
+we should be furnished by the Government with the means of sending
+them home. To determine the best method of conveying them to the
+shore, should the means of doing so be granted, we had carefully
+examined the country between Cyrene and the coast. The greatest
+difficulty to be overcome was the descent of the Augubah, or lower
+range of precipitous hills near the sea, to which our attention
+was, therefore, specially directed. We soon found, however, that
+little or no choice was left us, the only practicable pass near
+Cyrene being on the track of the ancient road to Apollonia, now
+called Marsa Sousah. It was evident that the transport of the
+statues over such a road would be a work of great labour and
+considerable difficulty; but, at the same time, we thought it quite
+a feasible undertaking. We accordingly sent a report of our
+proceedings to Lord Russell as early as the month of February, soon
+after the discovery of the Bacchus, and enclosed a detail of the
+means we considered best adapted for the carriage of that statue
+and such others as might afterwards be found. His lordship readily
+granted the required means, and, at his request, a man-of-war, with
+all the stores and appliances we had suggested, was ordered to
+proceed to Marsa Sousah to embark the sculptures. Owing, however,
+to the want of communication with Europe, we did not receive the
+reply to our report until after the actual arrival of the vessel in
+the month of May. About the same time a letter reached us from Mr.
+Panizzi, principal Librarian of the British Museum, informing us
+that the Trustees had voted us a subsidy of £100 towards defraying
+the expenses of the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>H.M.S. <em>Assurance</em>, Commander C. M. Aynsley, arrived off
+Marsa Sousah on the 10th of May, but finding a strong breeze
+blowing towards the shore from the north-west, she steamed on about
+fifteen miles to the eastward, and anchored in a more sheltered
+position behind Ras El Hilal. As the fact of our being at Cyrene
+was by this time well known throughout the country, the officers of
+the <em>Assurance</em> had no difficulty in finding an Arab to whom
+they could make themselves understood, and who was forthwith
+despatched with a letter to inform us of their arrival. After
+walking all night he reached our quarters early in the morning. As
+we had hitherto received no letters from England, we were most
+agreeably surprised by the good news he brought us, and gave him an
+unusually liberal backshish in consequence. Independently of the
+encouragement and assistance given us by the arrival of the vessel,
+we were, of course, delighted with the prospect of seeing some of
+our own friends and countrymen after our solitary residence of five
+months among negroes and Bedouins. We immediately saddled our
+horses and started for Ras El Hilal without delay, accompanied by
+the Arab who brought the letter, and by our friend Amor Bon Abdi
+Seyat and his brother. Great part of the road along the shore from
+Marsa Sousah was over sharp rocks and across deep rugged wadys, so
+that it was with difficulty that we reached Ras El Hilal after an
+eight hours’ ride. We there found some of the officers on shore
+shooting, with whom we went on board for the night, leaving our
+horses in charge of Amor and his brother.</p>
+
+<p>Ras El Hilal, behind which the <em>Assurance</em> was anchored,
+is the site of the ancient Naustathmus, of which almost no remains
+are now to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning, May 12th, the wind having moderated, the
+vessel steamed round to<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_45">[45]</span> Marsa Sousah, and anchored about half a mile
+from the shore. A party of thirty blue jackets and marines, who
+were all that could be spared from the ship, were immediately
+landed, under the command of Lieutenant Luard, R.N., and encamped
+on the beach. The waggons and stores of all sorts were then
+disembarked, and two ship’s carpenters sent to Cyrene to make
+packing-cases for the marbles. Amor and his friends meanwhile
+scoured the country in all directions to get camels to carry the
+plank and stores up to Cyrene, but had considerable difficulty in
+finding a sufficient number, as the Arabs were all at work getting
+in their harvest. After two days’ delay we at last got about a
+dozen collected at the camp on the beach. Besides those required
+for the carriage of the planks and stores to Cyrene, a number of
+camels were wanted to accompany the working party with the waggons
+to carry the sailors’ tents and baggage, and keep them supplied
+with water. An arrangement was accordingly made with the drivers,
+by which we agreed to pay a certain sum <em>per trip</em> for each
+camel carrying a load to Cyrene, and a certain sum <em>per
+diem</em> for each camel that remained with the waggon party. The
+tents and baggage were consequently placed in one heap, and the
+stores for Cyrene in another, the drivers being allowed to
+distribute the work among themselves as they pleased. The usual
+tiresome wrangling over the division of the loads ensued, as a
+matter of course, and on this occasion it lasted all day. Towards
+evening the different burdens were at last adjusted, and the camels
+loaded. We congratulated ourselves that we were now on the point of
+effecting a start, when the owners of the camels that were loaded
+with the sailors’ baggage changed their minds, and said they would
+either go up to Cyrene or not go at all. Argument and expostulation
+were in vain; they coolly unloaded the camels and took their
+departure. We were accordingly obliged to pitch our tents again for
+the night, and remain where we were as patiently as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we fortunately met our friend Mohammed El Adouly, who
+undertook to supply us with a sufficient number of camels, and to
+superintend the drivers himself. We were thus saved a great deal of
+trouble and delay, as he carried out his contract to our entire
+satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p>We started from Marsa Sousah with the two waggons on the 14th,
+and reached the foot of the Augubah the same night. Next morning we
+dragged the waggons one at a time up the slope of the hill, until
+further progress became impossible. The only way of getting them to
+the top was by unscrewing all the connecting bolts, and carrying
+the separate pieces on the men’s shoulders. Owing to the steepness
+of the narrow rocky path, and the weight of the wheels and many of
+the other pieces, this was a work of great labour; but the sailors
+had made up their minds that it must be done, and they did it
+accordingly. It was only after three days’ incessant toil that they
+got everything to the top, when the waggons were again put
+together, and the journey resumed in the usual way. Our progress,
+however, was slow; as, throughout a great part of the way, a road
+had to be cleared and made before it was possible to get the
+waggons dragged along. Except at one or two places, the party was
+barely strong enough to drag one waggon at a time, although our
+numbers were by this time increased by the arrival of seven blacks
+from Benghazi.</p>
+
+<p>Our usual method of proceeding was as follows:—We got up at
+daybreak, had breakfast, and started with the waggons before
+sunrise. We remained at work till eight or nine o’clock, when the
+party returned to the camp and rested till about three in the
+afternoon, when the tents were struck and packed with the baggage
+on the camels. From the distance traversed in the morning, it was
+easy to foresee what point would be reached before night. A
+convenient place for encampment was therefore chosen after the
+morning’s work, and two or three men were sent on with the baggage
+in the afternoon, to pitch the tents and cook the men’s supper,
+before their arrival with the waggons at sunset. The men worked
+most cheerfully, and seemed quite to enjoy the change from
+shipboard. After supper, their great amusement was to build large
+bonfires all round the camp,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_46">[46]</span> for the purpose, as they said, of keeping off
+the wild beasts. Even after their hard day’s work, they used to sit
+round the fires telling stories and singing songs till far into the
+night, much to the wonder of the Arabs and negroes who were in the
+camp.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime the carpenters had packed the statues, so that on our
+arrival at Cyrene on the 24th, the loads for the waggons were
+ready. On one waggon we placed the Bacchus and the largest of the
+small statues, and on the other the Apollo in three cases. The
+smaller objects, such as heads, statuettes, &amp;c., were packed in
+small boxes to be carried by camels. We were obliged to leave three
+of the largest of the small figures, and also the statue of
+Hadrian, as there was no room for them in the waggons, and they
+were too heavy for the camels.</p>
+
+<p>We started from Cyrene on the morning of the 29th, and, taking
+only one waggon at a time, reached the plain at the base of the
+hills the same night. The five following days were spent in
+crossing the lower plateau to the top of the Augubah, where we
+arrived on the 3rd of June. The wheels of the waggons were by this
+time considerably shaken by the heavy jolting over rocks and
+stones, but still remained unbroken.</p>
+
+<p>We had now to face our chief difficulty, the descent of the
+Augubah. After considering every possible way in which it could be
+done, we decided on lowering the waggons straight down the face of
+the hill by means of tackle. The least rugged part of the hill
+being selected, our first care was to provide the means of making
+fast the lowering tackle, which was done by placing heavy boat’s
+anchors in holes cut for the purpose in the rock. The front axle of
+the waggon was then lashed to the body of the carriage to prevent
+the fore wheels from getting locked against the sides of the
+waggon, and thereby upsetting it. A tackle, consisting of a 3½-inch
+rope, rove through two double blocks, was then made fast to the
+anchors, and to the centre of the fore axle, and the waggon lowered
+slowly, hind wheels foremost. About one-third of the way down,
+there was a nearly level ledge or terrace, forming part of the
+ancient road to Apollonia, which served as a convenient
+halting-place from which to make a fresh start. To reach this
+point, however, the waggons, as they were being lowered, had to be
+guided in a slanting direction across the face of the hill, which
+was safely done with the first waggon by means of handspikes. Not
+content to “let well alone,” we unfortunately thought to improve
+upon this simple method in the lowering of the other one. In
+addition to the anchors already in position, another was placed
+some distance to the right, and directly above the part of the
+terrace to which the waggons had to be taken. After the waggon had
+been lowered to a convenient place, the standing part of the tackle
+was to be transferred from the first anchor to the second one,
+thereby causing the waggon, when the lowering was continued, to
+slant across to the right until it was directly under the second
+anchor, to which the whole tackle was then to be transferred, and
+the waggon lowered straight down to the halting-place on the
+terrace. It was, in fact, an application of the principle of the
+<em>whip</em> used for taking weights over a ship’s side.
+Unfortunately, the second anchor was not properly placed in the
+hole made for it. The petty officer sent to look after it, instead
+of letting it remain as we had left it, thought he had improved its
+hold by placing it horizontally in a cleft of the rock, so as to
+act not as an <em>anchor</em>, but as what is called a
+<em>toggle</em>. The result was, that whenever it felt the indirect
+strain of the slanting motion of the waggon, it at once tilted up
+and lost its hold. To our horror, away went the waggon at a
+tremendous pace, and the anchor after it almost flying. For a
+second or two the destruction of the waggon and the Apollo seemed
+inevitable, as it was heading straight for a precipice two or three
+hundred feet in height, when, to our relief, it gave a great bound,
+and landed itself in a large cavity in the rock. Strange to say,
+not even a spoke of a wheel was broken. With considerable
+difficulty we got it out of its lodgment, and along the terrace to
+the part selected as the starting-point for the further lowering to
+the bottom of the hill. Here the face of the hill presented a
+continuous slope, about<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_47">[47]</span> 400 yards in length, and so steep that it was
+impossible to climb it at some parts, except on hands and feet. All
+the ropes the ship could afford were spliced to make a tackle of
+sufficient length. The anchors were again placed in holes cut in
+the rock, and the fore axles of the waggons lashed as before. The
+great danger to be avoided was the <em>serging</em> of the waggon,
+caused by the elasticity of such a length of tackle. To prevent
+this, a few men with handspikes went with the waggon to keep it
+moving as uniformly as the nature of the ground would admit. Both
+waggons reached the bottom without accident, and were saluted on
+their arrival there by three hearty cheers from the whole
+party.</p>
+
+<p>The following day the <em>Assurance</em> anchored abreast of the
+Augubah, and the waggons were dragged to the beach, where a
+triangle was set up in water deep enough for a loaded boat. The
+waggons were then run under it, and the cases, one by one, weighed
+and lowered into the ship’s boats. On the same day, Mohammed El
+Adouly’s camels brought down the last of the smaller cases; so that
+before night everything was on board.</p>
+
+<p>For the success of all the operations connected with the
+transport and embarkation of the statues we were greatly indebted
+to Captain Aynsley, the officers, and crew of the
+<em>Assurance</em>, and particularly to Lieutenant Luard and the
+working party under his command. He was himself indefatigable in
+his exertions to get the work carried on, and his orders were most
+cheerfully obeyed by the men, whose “pluck” and determination
+overcame every obstacle.</p>
+
+<p>Early the following morning, the 8th of June, the
+<em>Assurance</em> left for Malta, and we returned to our solitary
+residence at Cyrene.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_48">[48]</span><a id="c09"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">BEFORE resuming the narrative of our excavations,
+we may here give some account of our dealings with the Arabs, and
+of the excursions which we made to different parts of the Cyrenaica
+before the arrival of the <em>Assurance</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Not long after our arrival at Cyrene we had a specimen of the
+kind of difficulties we were likely to meet with not unfrequently.
+Walking one day round the face of the hill opposite the fountain,
+we were met by an Arab who, in very expressive language, ordered us
+to turn and leave the place at once. For some time we could not
+exactly make out what had so stirred up his indignation, but
+afterwards found that it was our presence within the limits of the
+<em>Zauyah</em>. Thinking the Zauyah was probably one of the tombs
+converted into a mosque, we told him we had no wish to desecrate
+it, and asked him to show us where it was, that we might avoid it
+in future. To our astonishment, the boundary he pointed out
+included the whole side of a hill, which formed one of the most
+interesting parts of the north-eastern cemetery. To give up the
+right of visiting so large a portion of the necropolis was out of
+the question, especially as submission on our part would only
+encourage the <em>Achwan</em>, or devotees of the Zauyah, to
+further acts of aggression. We therefore determined to contest the
+point, which we did by walking within the proscribed boundary
+nearly every day. Several threatening messages reached us from the
+Sheikh of the Zauyah, who, professing himself our friend, said he
+could not control the rage of the Arabs if we continued to pollute
+the sacred enclosure by our presence. This Sheikh, Mustapha by
+name, was considered one of the greatest saints in the country, and
+was respected and feared accordingly. He was always called
+<em>Sidi</em> Mustapha, a title bestowed upon Marabouts, or holy
+men, and equivalent to <em>Rabbi</em>—my lord or master. Originally
+one of the greatest thieves in Mesurata, he had suddenly become
+intensely religious, and joined the fanatical sect of <em>El
+Senoussy</em> during the late revival of Mussulman bigotry. He,
+with others, had left Mesurata, and travelled about the country
+trying to stir up a crusade against the Christians. He was now
+settled down as the Sheikh of the Zauyah of Shahat.</p>
+
+<p>Matters continued in this unsatisfactory state for nearly a
+month, till one day, when we were walking along the forbidden path,
+an Arab sallied forth from a tomb above us and began pelting us
+with stones. He was immediately joined by others from different
+directions, all in the highest state of excitement. Some of the
+more indignant were for shooting us at once, and one man had
+actually levelled his gun, but was prevented from firing by some of
+his cooler friends. Meantime such a number of Arabs had assembled
+that it would have been foolishness for us to attempt going
+farther. Sidi Mustapha, by whom the whole thing had evidently been
+planned, now appeared on the scene, and pretended to try and pacify
+the enraged crowd. After several unsuccessful efforts, turning to
+us, he said, “You see it is just as I told you; and if this goes
+on, I shall not be able to prevent their shooting you, if you
+remain at Cyrene at all.” We had, of course, to retire, but told
+his lordship that we had come to Cyrene for a special purpose, and
+had no intention of leaving until that was accomplished. Moreover,
+that we would see that the two men who had thrown stones and
+threatened to shoot us were duly punished for their offence.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly before this time a tent and some other articles had been
+stolen from our tomb,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span>
+and although the Arabs must have known well enough who the thieves
+were, we could find no trace of our lost property. We therefore
+determined to test the value of our firman, by requesting the Mudir
+of Ghegheb to punish the two Achwani of the Zauyah, and to compel
+the tribe near Cyrene to deliver up the thief, our object in doing
+so being, if possible, to show the Arabs that we were not to be
+offended with impunity. Porcher and Cesareo accordingly went the
+day after the disturbance to the castle of Ghegheb, were they saw
+the Mudir, Lemin Ben Sitewi, an old Arab, who had been Mudir under
+the Karamanlis before the occupation of the country by the Turks.
+When he saw the firman, and was informed of the object of the
+visit, he promised that everything should be done at once to our
+satisfaction. The two Achwani should be apprehended and kept in
+prison at Ghegheb until he had communicated with the Pacha at
+Benghazi, and our lost property should either be immediately
+restored, or the tribe mulcted of its value, which was estimated at
+3,000 piastres (£24). He said he had no doubt that the thief, and
+probably one of the principal intriguers against us, was a
+neighbour of our own, Mabrook Jerébi, who was, therefore, to be
+immediately apprehended.</p>
+
+<p>So far as promises went, all this was satisfactory enough; but
+performance, as usual, was quite the reverse. In conducting
+business of any kind with officials in Turkey, there is never the
+slightest difficulty in making the preliminary arrangements and
+stipulations. During an interview everything is settled exactly as
+you wish, and you come away impressed with the idea that you have
+managed your business very cleverly, and that the authorities in
+Turkey are, after all, not half so bad as they are called. You soon
+discover, however, that here your real difficulties begin. If what
+is promised is ever actually performed, it is only after the most
+vexatious shuffling and delay, for which plausible excuses are
+never wanting. A Turkish official seems to reason with himself
+somewhat in this way:—“I do not wish to disturb my peace of mind by
+arguing with this man; I must, therefore, promise everything he
+wishes, reserving the question of performance for private
+consideration afterwards. Should he afterwards be so exacting as to
+insist on the fulfilment of my promises, I am quite unfit for my
+post if I cannot coin sufficient excuses to satisfy him. A
+judicious repetition of the promises, and the partial performance
+now and then of some of them, will keep matters all right for a
+time, and, meanwhile, ‘something may turn up.’ Should the worst
+come to the worst, I shall, after all, have to do no more than I
+promised at the first.”</p>
+
+<p>Such is the almost invariable method of conducting business; so
+that, in proportion as a man becomes an adept in the art of delay,
+his reputation as a clever administrator increases. The Turks, and
+I believe Easterns in general, pride themselves on their
+superiority to Europeans in this kind of sharpness. Hence a common
+saying among them, “Frangestan marafat, lakin Arabestan akl,”
+“Europe for talent, <em>but</em> the East for cleverness,” the
+force of the word <em>lakin</em> showing the higher esteem in which
+the <em>akl</em> is held. We are, perhaps, too apt in this country
+to sacrifice the <em>suaviter in modo</em> to the <em>fortiter in
+re</em>, but in Turkey the tendency is quite the reverse.</p>
+
+<p>The above was thoroughly exemplified in our dealings with Lemin
+Ben Sitewi. The day after Porcher’s interview, Lemin’s Kiayah, or
+Secretary, with a number of mounted Koralié, came to Cyrene for the
+ostensible purpose of carrying out the orders for the apprehension
+of the offenders. They took Mabrook Jerébi, whom we had never
+accused, but said they could not get the two Achwani as they did
+not know their names. When we gave them the names, they went again
+to the Zauyah, but returned immediately, saying the men were gone
+away and could not be found. On our saying that this was not the
+case, as we had seen them only a few hours before, they said that
+the fact was that both the men were the servants of Sidi Mustapha
+and could not be taken without his consent, which it was impossible
+to obtain that day, as he was from home. On his return, however,
+which was expected the following day, they would come again to
+Shahat and apprehend the men without fail. Seeing the way in which
+the matter was likely to end if left<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_50">[50]</span> in the hands of the Mudir, we told the Kiayah
+to inform his master that if the men were not taken within three
+days, we would communicate the whole of the affair through the
+Consul to the Pacha at Benghazi.</p>
+
+<p>After waiting some days, and hearing no further tidings of the
+actions of the Mudir, we sent a courier to Benghazi with a letter
+to Mr. Crowe, in which we gave a full account of the matters as
+they stood, and requested him to take whatever steps he thought
+advisable. He at once called on the Kaimacam and insisted on his
+sending the most stringent orders to the Mudir to have the men
+apprehended and sent to Benghazi. A messenger was accordingly sent
+to Ghegheb with orders to the Mudir to go himself to Cyrene without
+delay and seize the men. After bringing them before us for
+identification, he was to send them to Benghazi to be dealt with by
+the Kaimacam himself. He was also to pay us the 3,000 piastres and
+levy the amount on the tribe guilty of the theft.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of these orders, Lemin made his appearance at our
+quarters one morning accompanied by a large retinue of Sheiks,
+Chavasses, and Koralié. After informing us of the object of his
+visit, he handed over to us 1,500 piastres, alleging the emptiness
+of the public chest as his reason for not bringing the whole sum.
+He also said that the two men had been sent for and would be
+brought before us in the course of an hour or two. Expecting
+further difficulties and excuses, we were certainly somewhat
+surprised by the actual arrival of the prisoners, who, however,
+seemed unaccountably cool and unconcerned. This the Mudir explained
+by whispering to us that they were not aware of the object for
+which he had called them, but had come with the idea that they were
+only to make an apology for their conduct and depart in peace. He
+even received them with a gracious “Salaam Aleikoum,” and bade them
+be seated. After a short pause he turned to us and asked if these
+were the men of whom we complained. When we said that they were, he
+called out “Bring the ropes.” The Chavasses immediately ran in and
+with a great pretence of activity and violence disarmed and
+pinioned the prisoners. They were then led off ignominiously by the
+mounted attendants, who, to make escape impossible, held them by
+long ropes attached to their pinions. They were followed by the
+Mudir and his retinue, the whole cavalcade moving off in the
+presence of a large concourse of Arabs who had meantime assembled
+round our tomb. The whole scene was quite dramatic.</p>
+
+<p>We soon discovered that the drama had been rehearsed with a view
+to its effect, not on the assembled Arabs, but on ourselves. Within
+a week we heard that the prisoners were again at liberty, having,
+according to the Mudir, slipped their shackles in a miraculous
+manner, and escaped during the night when on their way to Benghazi.
+This feat, however, lost all its supernatural character in our
+eyes, when looked upon in connection with the purse of dollars
+previously subscribed by the Arabs and given to the Mudir. His
+superior cleverness on this occasion cost him dear, for on our
+again applying to Mr. Crowe, he was deprived of office and sent as
+a prisoner to Tripoli, whence he was not allowed to return to
+Benghazi until all his money had found its way into the coffers of
+the Pacha. Thus after two months’ delay, our dignity was finally
+and publicly vindicated.</p>
+
+<p>About the same time the Kaimacam sent his Bash-Chavass, or head
+policeman, Osman Aga, to Cyrene, to remain with us as long as we
+thought his presence desirable, and to keep a good look-out on the
+doings of the Achwani of the Zauyah. Long before his arrival,
+however, Sidi Mustapha, seeing the turn affairs were taking, went
+off to Augila, and did not return until he heard of the coming of
+the <em>Assurance</em>, in which he thought we would take our
+departure. Although the Achwani committed no open act of hostility
+towards us, they caused us a great deal of trouble indirectly, by
+interfering with our servants. Our principal servant, Amor Bon Abdi
+Seyat, was bound to us by too secure a tenure to be much affected
+by their opinions, as he not only received liberal and frequent
+bakshish, but was, with his whole family, exempted<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> from the payment of the
+<em>miri</em>, or tribute, so long as he remained in our
+employment. Some of the other servants, however, the Achwani
+threatened with their vengeance if they remained longer in our
+service. They were particularly bitter against an old woman,
+Fatima, who ground the corn and made the bread of the
+establishment. Her services were absolutely indispensable, inasmuch
+as an Arab, or even a negro, would rather eat raw corn or starve
+than grind the wheat or barley himself. Of all employments, this of
+grinding corn is peculiarly a woman’s, and is never done even by
+boys. On the other hand, the sewing and washing of both men’s and
+women’s clothes are done by the men. Fatima’s office of Nufaga
+being, therefore one of the most important in our household, the
+Achwani made special efforts to deprive us of her services, telling
+her that they would cut her hands off after we were gone if she
+remained another day with us. They even went beyond threats, for
+one day when she was at the Zauyah for something or other, they got
+hold of her and gave her a beating. As this was a more tangible
+offence than mere threats, we put in force against them a law of
+retaliation recognized by the Arabs, by which they were compelled
+to pay old Fatima the sum of twenty-five dollars.</p>
+
+<p>With these exceptions our intercourse with the Arabs was usually
+of a friendly nature. During the first two months of our stay at
+Cyrene, we were greatly indebted to Mr. Cesareo, whose knowledge of
+the language and acquaintance with the habits of the people were of
+the greatest service. He left us to return to Benghazi, in the
+beginning of March, after which time we had to transact our
+business with the Arabs in the best way we could without
+assistance. Our transactions consisted chiefly in making bargains
+for barley, wheat, butter, sheep, and bullocks. Concluding a
+bargain was always a very tedious affair, and seeing it properly
+carried out afterwards was much more so. One great cause of this
+was the absence of any definite standard of measurement; the only
+measure of capacity for both solids and liquids being the
+<em>wugga</em>, or oke, which, however, was little more than a
+name, the wugga of one Arab being sometimes half as much again as
+that of another. This, of course, caused endless disputes; and as
+we found the oke daily becoming “small by degrees and beautifully
+less,” we were obliged at last to adopt an arbitrary wugga of our
+own. When this, after long opposition, was fairly established, we
+were saved a great part of the previous trouble and annoyance.</p>
+
+<p>The public disgrace of the Mudir had a very salutary effect on
+the Arabs, and was, no doubt, one of the principal causes of their
+general good behaviour toward us afterwards. Another was that they
+had gradually become accustomed to our presence, and were less
+hostile in proportion as we became better acquainted with each
+other. The tribes we met in other parts of the country, and those
+from the southward, who came to the neighbourhood of Cyrene late in
+the summer, took no pains to hide their great hatred of the
+Nazarenes. The following is an instance of this feeling. Some Arabs
+who were assembled in our tomb, were talking about a report that
+had reached us of a violent earthquake in Malta and Sicily, by
+which many thousand people had perished. One of the Arabs present,
+on being told, in answer to a question, that all these people were
+Christians, muttered in a low, expressive tone: “<em>El Hamdu
+’lillah!</em>” (Praise be to God!)</p>
+
+<p>We gained considerable influence by our reputed skill as
+doctors, although we disclaimed any pretensions to a knowledge of
+the healing art. People came with diseases of every kind, in the
+expectation that they were at once to be cured. Knowing nothing of
+the nature or causes of disease, they look upon it as a
+supernatural visitation, and therefore conclude that it is only to
+be abated or cured by supernatural means, of which medicine and
+written charms (<em>kiteeba</em>) are the most effectual. The
+latter, being altogether mysterious, are held in the highest
+esteem. Owing to the ignorance of the people, the few among them
+who can read and write are looked upon with a respect somewhat
+allied to fear; and if, in addition to the accomplishments of
+reading and writing, a man has the reputation of being a marabut,
+or saint, he is treated with the greatest reverence.<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> Such men are called
+<em>fikkis</em>, and not unusually turn their reputation to good
+account by selling written charms to their credulous clients. As we
+were often seen reading and writing, the Arabs became fully
+convinced that we must be great fikkis, although, as Christians, we
+could not have derived our power from the proper quarter.
+Applications for kiteebas were, therefore, very frequent, not only
+in cases of sickness, but also for the remedy of all sorts of
+domestic troubles and grievances. A woman, for instance, came for a
+kiteeba to enable her to retain the undivided affections of her
+husband, and thereby restrain him from taking another wife. A man
+whose hopes of marrying the object of his affections had been
+frustrated by the enmity of her relations, wanted one to overcome
+their opposition and secure the success of his suit. One young lady
+begged for a kiteeba that would get her a husband, and another
+asked for one to prevent her being married to a man she disliked.
+In vain we tried to persuade the people that charms were valueless,
+and that the idea of their efficacy was kept up by the fikkis
+solely for their own advantage. The belief in their power was too
+deeply rooted to be shaken by anything we could say, and our
+unwillingness to write them was attributed to mere churlishness.
+This being the case, we were often obliged to act as sorcerers to
+get rid of importunate applicants. In giving a kiteeba, we took
+care at the same time to recommend the use of such natural means as
+we thought most conducive to the desired result, and enforced our
+advice by saying, that the kiteeba was so written that it could
+have no effect if the means recommended were not adopted. If the
+desired result was obtained, the success was, of course, ascribed
+to the virtue of the charm; and if not, the failure was attributed
+to a final cause,—it was <em>mektub</em>, written as the will of
+God in the Book of Fate.</p>
+
+<p>The wandering habits of the Bedouins are a necessary result of
+the form of their property and of the physical condition of the
+country in which they live. As the various tribes are in a
+perpetual state of feud or open war among themselves, agriculture
+is but little attended to, and property consists almost entirely of
+flocks and herds, which, being moveable, are better adapted than
+crops to a lawless state of society. For mutual protection, a
+number of families belonging to the same clan or subdivision of a
+tribe live together and form an encampment, which consists
+generally of from six to twelve tents, with one family in each. The
+flocks belonging to the camp graze on the surrounding pastures,
+and, during summer, drink the water that remains in the pools which
+form during the rains in winter. In a short time the grass and
+water within a convenient distance of the camp are consumed, and it
+becomes necessary to move to another place. The tents are then
+struck, and, with the smaller children and the few rude articles
+that belong to the household, are carried by camels and oxen; the
+men mount their horses, and the women follow on foot to drive the
+flocks.</p>
+
+<p>In fixing on a spot for a camp, two points have to be attended
+to; good grazing-ground for the animals, and a sheltered and
+secluded position for the tents. On this account a thicket of
+brushwood is frequently selected, in the centre of which a space is
+cleared for the camp, and enclosed by a rough fence of shrubs and
+branches, which keeps in the cattle during the night, and serves to
+a great extent as a line of defence, as it is impossible to pass it
+without attracting the attention of the numerous watch-dogs on duty
+inside.</p>
+
+<p>These dogs bark all night without intermission, and give warning
+of the approach of a stranger by a special howl of peculiar
+fierceness. One would naturally imagine that a dog given to
+perpetual barking, and in this respect like the boy in the fable
+who cried “wolf,” would be of comparatively little value as a
+watch. The Arabs, however, think otherwise. They say truly that if
+a dog barks all night he cannot possibly fall asleep, and that the
+change in his bark on the approach of an intruder is quite
+sufficient to arouse the soundest sleeper. His usual bark is a
+warning to the enemy that the sentries within the camp are awake,
+and to his master it is a perpetual report of “all’s well.” The
+hoarse voices of the dogs, the plaintive grumbling of
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span> camels, and the
+bleating of scores of lambs and kids, joining with the shrill cries
+of the surrounding jackals, form a midnight chorus the reverse of
+musical.</p>
+
+<p>The flocks are generally tended by the young men and the
+children, while the women are chiefly employed in grinding the
+barley for the use of the family, churning butter, and weaving
+haircloth for tents and camel-bags. In good years, that is, when
+there has been plenty of rain in winter and spring, there is a
+considerable surplus of wheat and barley, which the Arabs take for
+sale to Benghazi and Derna. Such, however, is their improvidence,
+that little or no provision is made against a season of drought, so
+that they are not unfrequently reduced to poverty and starvation by
+the death of their cattle and the failure of the crops. In ordinary
+years, a large quantity of butter is made. The only churn in use is
+simply a goat-skin, which the women fill with milk and rock
+backwards and forwards on their knees until the butter forms. The
+buttermilk, called <em>Leben</em>, is one of the principal articles
+of food. The butter (<em>Zibda</em>) when made, is melted in a pot,
+and salt added in certain proportion. The curd part of the butter
+having sunk to the bottom, the oily part is poured off into
+goat-skins prepared for the purpose. This clarified butter, called
+<em>Semen</em>, is the only form in which it is eaten by the Arabs,
+the <em>Zibda</em> being considered unclean. It is exported in
+large quantities to different parts of Turkey.</p>
+
+<p>The dish in most general use among the Arabs is a thick kind of
+barley porridge called <em>Bazeen</em>, seasoned with whatever they
+happen to have at the time. The favourite condiment, however, is
+red pepper of capsicums, which they consume in astonishing
+quantities when they have an opportunity. When they wish to be
+luxurious, or to do honour to a stranger, some melted
+<em>Semen</em> is poured into the middle of the dish, and in this
+each guest dips the <em>bolus</em> of bazeen which he has kneaded
+with his fingers into convenient size and shape for swallowing.
+When the dish, or rather trough, is cleared, copious draughts of
+<em>leben</em> finish the repast.</p>
+
+<p>A kind of unleavened bread is sometimes eaten, but as its
+preparation is not so simple as the Bazeen, it is considered rather
+a luxury. It is made in the following manner:—A large fire is
+kindled, and into it are thrown a number of stones about the size
+of the fist; when they are thoroughly heated, some of them are laid
+on the embers so as to form a flat surface, on which the dough is
+placed and beaten out with the hand to an average thickness of
+about an inch and a half. This cake is then covered with the rest
+of the stones, and the red embers of the fire are raked over the
+whole. In a few minutes the bread is cooked, and is eaten at once
+before it cools. It is usually torn into small pieces, and served
+up in a bazeen-dish with melted semen, in which form it is called
+<em>Hobsa Mitruda</em>.</p>
+
+<p>Wheaten bread is very rarely eaten; but the mode of baking it
+deserves notice. A large wide-mouthed earthen pot, called
+<em>Taboona</em>, is placed on the ground, and a fire kindled
+inside and around it. The dough is kneaded in the usual manner in a
+wooden dish, and formed into flat round loaves about three-quarters
+of an inch in thickness, and six or eight inches in diameter. The
+<em>Nufaga</em> taking one of these in her hand, sticks it against
+the inside of the taboona, to which it adheres until it is baked.
+Bread made in this way is called <em>Hobsa Taboona</em>, and if
+carefully baked and quite fresh is very palatable.</p>
+
+<p>Meat is never eaten except on such great occasions as a marriage
+feast, or when it can be got for nothing. On such occasions it is
+devoured alone without either salt or bread. Tea, coffee, and
+sugar, are all but unknown.</p>
+
+<p>The tents are of very simple construction, consisting simply of
+a broad piece of haircloth stretched over two upright poles. The
+two ends and the back are usually pegged down pretty close to the
+ground, and the front left open. The cloth is generally made up of
+alternate strips of black and white or black and brown. The cords,
+as well as the cloth, are made of hair. The tents contain nothing
+but the most indispensable articles; such as water-skins,
+butter-skins, camel-bags,<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_54">[54]</span> a hand mill, wooden bazeen-dishes, &amp;c.
+The beds, if there are any, are simply bits of haircloth or matting
+spread on the floor, and the barracans, or <em>Jered</em>, worn by
+day are the only bedclothes during the night. When the weather is
+very cold, the Arabs have rather an ingenious way of keeping
+themselves warm. They dig a space under their beds about six inches
+in depth, and fill it up with stones that have been heated in the
+fire, over which they spread some twigs and leaves, and the mat on
+which they sleep. By this arrangement the beds are kept warm for
+several hours.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i42"><a href="images/i42.jpg"><img src='images/i42.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 42.—Interior of Mohammed El Adouly’s Tent.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The affairs of state of a tribe are settled by a
+<em>Medjlis</em> or general assembly of all the men belonging to
+it. These assemblies are called on even the most trivial occasions,
+and sometimes last for several days. The speeches are generally
+confined to the sheikhs; but any one is at liberty to give his
+opinion. There is no particular method in the way in which they
+arrive at a conclusion. After a great deal of talking, the general
+mind of the meeting seems to become understood, and action is taken
+accordingly. With a few exceptions, the sheikhs do not seem to
+possess the power or influence usually attributed to them. The
+original signification of “<em>sheikh</em>” (pronounced
+<em>shaich</em>, <em>ch</em> guttural), is simply “<em>old
+man</em>.”</p>
+
+<p>The form of salutation among the Arabs is very peculiar. When
+two people meet, they strike the palms of their hands against each
+other and kiss them. Then commences a perfect torrent of questions
+on both sides regarding each other’s welfare, but to which answers
+are never given: such as, “Peace!” “Peace be with thee!” “How are
+you?” “How are you?” “Peace!” “How are you?” “Peace be with thee!”
+“Are you very well?” “Thanks be to God!” “How are you?” “Are you
+very well?” “What is your colour?” “What is your
+colour?”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span> “Peace be
+with thee!” and so on for several minutes. After a pause, if they
+have nothing else to say, they begin again <em>da capo</em>, “How
+are you?” &amp;c., &amp;c. One subject they are never tired of
+asking about, viz., the price of grain, butter, and other
+commodities at Benghazi and Derna. A man returning from either of
+these places is therefore subjected by all the people he meets to a
+most tedious cross examination on this interesting topic. Although
+they may have asked the same questions immediately before, they
+receive the answers with some such exclamation of surprise as
+Wallah! Mashallah! &amp;c. If you happen to be travelling from
+Benghazi, you get dreadfully “bored” by the perpetual series of
+questions: “How much is barley?” “Ha, Mashallah!” “How much is
+wheat?” “By God!” “How much is barley?” “God is great!” “How much
+are bullocks?” “By God, it is good!” and so on until you move off.
+Even then, however, so long as you are within earshot, the same
+questions are shouted after you, so that just before you are
+released by the distance from further interrogation, you may detect
+the faint reply, “God is great!” and some such forgotten inquiry,
+as, “How much are donkeys?”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i43"><a href="images/i43.jpg"><img src='images/i43.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 43.—Arab Arms of the Cyrenaica.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The habit of swearing is very prevalent, the most trivial
+statements being accompanied by the oath “<em>Wallah!</em>” or
+“<em>Wallahi!</em>” (By God!) If the truth of the statement is
+doubted, this oath is repeated thrice in succession with great
+emphasis: “Wallahi, Wallahi, Wallahi!” Its impressiveness being
+much weakened by continual use, other forms of asseveration are
+frequently added, such as: “Hakh El Senoussy!” (The truth of
+Senoussy!), and even “Hakh Sidi Mustapha!” (The truth of Sidi
+Mustapha!”), both of which expressions are considered much more
+solemn by the Cyrene Arabs than the usual “Wallahi!”</p>
+
+<p>The universal use of firearms is caused in a great measure by
+the prevalence of the law of retaliation, or <em>Vendetta</em>. If
+a man of one tribe or camp is killed by a man of another, his
+friends endeavour to avenge his death by killing the manslayer, or,
+failing him, any one belonging to his camp. A man is, consequently,
+quite uncertain whether every thicket he passes may not conceal an
+enemy lying in wait to take his life, and he is therefore
+constantly armed for the purpose of acting in self-defence. The
+wearing of arms has thus become almost a necessity. The prohibition
+by the Government of the sale and use of firearms and gunpowder is
+of no effect, owing to the want<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_56">[56]</span> of power to enforce it. For the same reason
+the Government takes no cognizance of any crimes but such as
+directly interfere with the collection of the tribute; so that the
+Arabs are left at perfect liberty to indulge their propensities for
+murder, robbery, and theft as much as they please. Let the reader
+imagine a country some miles in length, inhabited by a proud,
+passionate race of barbarians, who are divided into innumerable
+tribes and families, mutually jealous of each other, with no fixed
+dwelling-places, and under no restraint from the force of public
+law,—and he will have a fair idea of the state of Barbary at the
+present day.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i44">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 44.</p>
+<a href="images/i44_large.jpg"><img src='images/i44.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">WADY LEBAIATH, BETWEEN CYRENE AND APOLLONIA</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_57">[57]</span><a id="c10"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">PREVIOUSLY to the arrival of the
+<em>Assurance</em>, we made several excursions to different places
+in the Cyrenaica, the first of which was to Marsa Sousah, for the
+purpose of examining the road, with a view to the future transport
+of the Bacchus and other statues. Accompanied by Cesareo and Amor,
+we started from Cyrene on the 14th of January, and reached Marsa
+Sousah in four hours. The present Arab path follows the ancient
+road, which is distinctly marked by the deep tracks of the
+chariot-wheels. After crossing the lower plateau, the road
+approaches the head of the Augubah, through a dense wood of
+juniper, carub, and olive trees; on emerging from which it is
+carried across a sort of saddleback between two exceedingly
+picturesque wadys, about 1,000 feet in depth. A sketch of one of
+which is given in <a href="#i44">Plate 44.</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i45"><a href="images/i45.jpg"><img src='images/i45.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 45.—Eastern City Wall and Ruins of
+Apollonia.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The remains of the ancient city of Apollonia are not of great
+interest, and seem generally to belong to a comparatively late
+period. The city wall can be easily traced throughout its circuit,
+some parts of it still standing to a considerable height. Just
+outside the wall, on the eastern side of the city, is a theatre in
+a very perfect state of preservation, and within the wall the
+ground is almost covered with the ruins of ancient buildings. Among
+these are the remains of two temples, distinguishable by the heaps
+of fallen columns, capitals, and architraves. Of the two, one is of
+white marble, and the other of a coarse Cipollino marble streaked
+with green, which has probably<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_58">[58]</span> given rise to the erroneous report that large
+columns of <em>verde antico</em> are to be found among the ruins of
+Apollonia. In the immediate vicinity of the city are a number of
+plain tombs cut in the rock, now used as grain-stores by the few
+Greek traders who occasionally visit this place for the purchase of
+the produce of the country. In a mass of ruins within the city we
+found two Latin crosses engraved on blocks of marble, almost the
+only decided relics of Christianity we met with in the Cyrenaica.
+On the northern side of the city there were some ancient tanks, and
+traces of an aqueduct could also be made out. The harbour, which is
+too small and shallow for even the coasting vessels of the present
+day, is protected from seaward by some rocky islets at its
+entrance.</p>
+
+<p>As we had no tent with us, we took up our quarters for the night
+in the outer chamber of an ancient tomb, where we were visited in
+the evening by a neighbour troglodyte, a skipper from Candia. He
+spoke the inarticulate Turkish patois common to all Candiotes, and,
+although he looked more like a Greek than a Turk, called himself a
+Mussulman. He was buying up all the grain and butter he could get
+from the Arabs, while waiting for his vessel, which was gradually
+collecting a cargo at different places along the coast. Some of his
+sailors were with him to assist in keeping guard at night, as the
+Arabs were continually on the look-out for an opportunity of
+robbing him. He told us he had established himself in a tomb with a
+single narrow entrance, so that he could defend himself against
+considerable odds. We gave him some powder and bullets, for which
+he was very thankful, as his stock was by this time nearly
+expended.</p>
+
+<p>During the night we were aroused by a creeping, rustling sound
+close to us, which made us instinctively seize our guns and
+revolvers. While straining our eyes to detect an Arab assassin in
+the surrounding darkness, the cause of alarm, in the form of a huge
+porcupine, suddenly emerged from an inner chamber of the tomb,
+rushed through the smouldering fire that was burning in front, and
+made his escape amid a cloud of sparks and flame.</p>
+
+<p>Our friend the Candiote told us there was a much better
+anchorage than Marsa Sousah at a place called Sousa Hamema, about
+fifteen miles to the westward. On further inquiry regarding it, he
+said that its excellence consisted in the fact that a vessel could
+<em>get away</em> from it if a storm came on from seaward, whereas
+it was almost impossible to beat out of Marsa Sousah in the teeth
+of a northerly wind. We resolved to visit it on the first
+favourable opportunity.</p>
+
+<p>We returned to Cyrene the following day in a perfect torrent of
+rain, from which, however, we were well protected by our burnouses,
+which had been equally serviceable as beds the night before.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after this, we visited a place called Imghernis, spoken
+of by the Arabs as full of ancient ruins. It is situated near the
+edge of the upper plateau, about eight miles from Cyrene. A number
+of walls and buildings are still standing, some of them to the
+height of about thirty feet. They seem, however, to be of a late
+period, and almost no traces of marble are to be seen. In the
+neighbourhood are a good many tombs, both built and excavated, some
+of which are of evidently much earlier date than the ruins of the
+town.<a id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class=
+"fnanchor">[4]</a> There were also several large reservoirs cut in
+the rock, and roofed over with long flags of stone.</p>
+
+<p>On the occasion of a second visit which we paid to Imghernis
+some time afterwards, we were greatly annoyed by a tribe of Arabs,
+who surrounded us, and in the most dictatorial manner ordered us to
+leave the place. They threatened to shoot us, and for some time
+seemed on the point of actually trying to do so. Amor, however,
+meanwhile advised them for their own sakes not to attempt violence,
+telling them quietly that all who had in any way thwarted us at
+Cyrene, including the Mudir and Sidi Mustapha himself, had suffered
+in consequence; and that they might rest assured that the Consul at
+Benghazi would have ample vengeance for any injury we might
+receive. After<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> some
+time, they showed their faith in the soundness of his advice by
+moving off; and although we remained at Imghernis all night and
+part of next day, we saw no more of them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i46">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 46.</p>
+<a href="images/i46_large.jpg"><img src='images/i46.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">RUINS OF IMGHERNIS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our next excursion was to Derna; one object of our trip, among
+others, being to pay a visit to Mr. De Fremeaux, the British
+vice-consul, who had very kindly sent us from time to time such
+supplies as we required which Derna could afford. We started with
+Cesareo from Cyrene on the 26th of February, taking with us Amor’s
+brother, Abderrahim, and a camel to carry a tent and baggage. Two
+hours and a half after starting, we passed a few indefinite ruins
+at a place called Labrak, the scene, some thirty years ago, of the
+great battle between the tribes of Birasa and Haasa, the former
+under their redoubtable Sheikh Bou Bakr Ben Hadood. The Haasa were
+completely defeated, and 700 of them are said to have been buried
+on the battle-field.</p>
+
+<p>An hour and a quarter further on, and a little to the left of
+the road, are a few ruins called by the Arabs Gabiout Younes, where
+there is an arched gateway of recent date still standing nearly
+perfect. About a mile beyond, are the ruins of what seems to have
+been a place of some importance, now called by the Arabs Tirt,
+where we found a small Zauyah, containing a rude building used as a
+mosque. The Arabs who were loitering about the place gave us a
+malicious scowl as we passed, but did not interfere with us. No
+traces of architectural buildings were to be seen.</p>
+
+<p>From Tirt we rode about seven miles through a wood of arbutus
+and juniper, over a rough stony road, to Lamloudeh (Lebdis), where
+there are the remains of a town of considerable extent. Among the
+ruins are a number of very perfect arches and tombs, and also some
+large reservoirs at which we watered the horses and filled our
+water-skins. From Lamloudeh we continued our journey till sunset,
+when we halted for the night, encamping on the side of a hill
+called Kubbeh, where we found two fountains of good water, and some
+tombs excavated in the rock.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we started early, and rode about ten miles
+over a monotonous undulating country containing neither shrub nor
+tree. In this plain we passed some ruins on a slight eminence,
+close to the road called Beit Thamr, and a little further on, some
+tombs cut in the rock. We then entered a wood of arbutus, juniper,
+and olive, which, with a few breaks, extended to the head of the
+Augubah, where we first came within view of the seashore, and in
+the distance, away to the eastward, the town of Derna. The
+neighbouring hills are perfectly bare, so that the town, with its
+luxuriant date-gardens, forms quite an oasis in the stony desert
+around. The Augubah is similar to that of Marsa Sousah, being in
+fact part of the same range of mountains. The descent is very
+steep, and in some places where the surface of the rock has been
+worn smooth, it is very difficult for the horses to keep their
+feet. We got to the plain at the bottom in half an hour, after
+which we had a two hours’ ride over loose stones and shingle before
+we reached the town. The whole distance from Cyrene is sixteen
+hours, or about fifty miles.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival we were most hospitably received by Mr. De
+Fremeaux, who kindly furnished us with quarters at his house. He
+had himself arrived only a month before to succeed Mr. Aquilina,
+who had occupied the post of unpaid consular agent at Derna for
+upwards of a quarter of a century, during which time he was
+generally the only European in the place. In the course of the
+evening we were visited by the Kolaghassi (Major) commanding the
+troops, and the recently appointed Mudir, to whom we had given a
+passage in the <em>Boxer</em> from Tripoli to Benghazi. The
+Kolaghassi, who indulged in an amount of snuff perfectly
+astonishing, seemed, from the compound effect of tobacco and raki,
+to be in an incipient state of <em>delirium tremens</em>. The
+Mudir, an Albanian by birth, had spent the last twenty years in
+Barbary and Fezzan. Both were profuse in their offers of
+friendship, and the Mudir, on returning to the castle, sent us as a
+present a Roman silver coin and a small silver sphinx which had
+been found in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Derna, with its gardens, covers a small triangular
+plain, formed by a projection of the seashore from the base of the
+range of hills already so frequently referred to. The shingly bed
+of a deep wady, which recedes several miles into the range, divides
+the small plain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> and
+the town into two distinct portions. On the eastern side are the
+two villages of Upper and Lower Bou Mansour; and on the western, a
+village on a spur of the hills called Il Maghar, Derna proper lying
+immediately below, and a small detached village, called Gebéli,
+near the projecting headland. The whole assemblage of villages
+constitutes the town of Derna, which is supposed to occupy the site
+of the ancient Darnis. The remains of a few ancient walls may be
+traced in different parts of the town; and the name of the village
+on the spur, Il Maghar (the cave or rock-tomb), denotes the
+existence there of ancient sepulchres.</p>
+
+<p>The beauty and fertility of the little plain of Derna are owing
+to the copious stream of fresh water which flows down the bed of
+the wady. Some two or three miles above the town the water is
+collected into an artificial aqueduct, by which it is led into the
+town, and thence distributed over the surrounding fields and
+gardens by means of small lateral branches. To insure the regular
+supply to every man’s property, a “Chief of the Water” is
+appointed, whose duty it is to see that a supply is sent to every
+district in succession, and to prevent any one from diverting for
+his own use the stream that for the time belongs to his neighbour.
+Water-stealing is very properly considered a serious crime, and is
+punished accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>The houses are built with lime, and are altogether much superior
+to those of Benghazi. Most of them, too, are whitewashed, which
+gives the town a clean, wholesome appearance. Derna proper is
+surrounded on all sides by luxuriant gardens, and appeared to us a
+perfect Paradise after the wild and uncultivated country we had
+been accustomed to; but whether a stranger, coming direct from
+Malta or Candia, would be equally struck with its beauty it is
+difficult to say. Fruits and vegetables of all kinds grow in
+abundance, particularly dates, melons, figs, grapes, pomegranates,
+and bananas. The thick groves of tall palm-trees form a conspicuous
+and beautiful feature in the scene.</p>
+
+<p>The town contains a large mosque, a bath, a market-place, a
+small bazaar, and a castle built at the same time as those of Merdj
+and Ghegheb. There is a considerable export trade in grain, butter,
+and wool, chiefly to Canea, in Crete. In the bazaar are shops or
+stalls of different kinds, most of which belong to Jews. The town
+Arabs being to some extent civilized, look down on their brethren,
+the Bedouins of the country, and think them fair game for any
+amount of deception and practical joking. An instance of this
+occurred in the case of our camel-driver. While lounging about the
+bazaar, an auctioneer showed him a pair of pistols he was selling
+at the time, and asked him what he thought of them. “Wallah! zain”
+(By God! good), was the reply. In a short time the auctioneer
+returned, bawling out a large price as the last bid, and handing
+the pistols to the camel-driver, again asked his opinion of their
+quality. “Wallah! zain!” repeated the camel-driver. “Well, no one
+has bid higher than you, so here they are, and give me the money.”
+“But I never bid for them at all! I have no money to buy such
+pistols as these!” “No money! Never bid! Did you not say ‘Wallah!
+zain!’ when I bid a price for you? Wallahi! if you do not pay you
+go to prison.” The other Arabs in the bazaar took up the chorus,
+“Wallahi! you shall go to prison. We’ll have none of your Bedouin
+tricks here!” and to the castle prison he was hauled off
+accordingly. He was, of course, released when his companion,
+Abderrahim, came and told us of his misfortune.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i47">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 47.</p>
+<a href="images/i47_large.jpg"><img src='images/i47.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">DERNA</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>We returned the visit of the Mudir, and also called on the
+Kolaghassi, who told us that if we would come to the castle the
+next day he would have the troops turned out and put through their
+drill in our presence. He considered himself a great tactician, and
+showed us a Turkish book on military movements, illustrated with
+diagrams, by the study of which he said he had acquired his
+proficiency. When we went to the castle on the following morning,
+after the usual pipes and coffee, he showed us the barrack-rooms,
+&amp;c., which were all in very good order. He pointed out with
+great pride some fantastic arabesques in red and black with which
+the white-washed walls were covered, informing us that they were
+all designed by himself. They<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_61">[61]</span> forcibly reminded us of the way in which a
+small boy delights to ornament a blank wall with a piece of chalk.
+The two companies of infantry were by this time drawn up for
+inspection. Their clothing was certainly not of the best quality,
+but their arms were good and in excellent condition. Some manœuvres
+were then executed in an open space in front of the castle. The men
+drilled very steadily, although impeded in their movements by the
+clumsy formation of three ranks, and the interference of the
+supernumeraries, whose chief occupation seemed to consist in
+kicking the shins of the men in the rear rank.</p>
+
+<p>On the last day of our stay we rode about five miles up the
+wady, accompanied by Mr. de Fremeaux. The sides are very steep, and
+in many places quite perpendicular; and the stream which flows
+along the bed causes a luxuriant growth of reeds and oleanders,
+which give the ravine a most picturesque appearance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i48"><a href="images/i48.jpg"><img src='images/i48.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 48.—Castle of Derna.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Before leaving Derna we examined the shops in the bazaar and
+bought everything useful we could find. On the fourth day after our
+arrival we left for Cyrene, which we reached without incident the
+following day. It was during our absence that our workmen made the
+first discoveries of sculpture at the Temple of Apollo.</p>
+
+<p>On the 3rd of April we visited Sousah Hamema (Phycus), the
+anchorage spoken of by the Candiote skipper. It is confounded by
+Beechey with Apollonia, which he calls Marsa Sousah Hamema. The one
+place is Marsa Sousah and the other Sousah Hamema, so named from
+the number of rock-pigeons (hamem) which frequent its
+neighbourhood. The distance from Cyrene, seven hours or twenty-one
+miles, was greater than we had been led to believe. From the foot
+of the Cyrene range we crossed the lower plateau in a north-western
+direction, and descended the Augubah to the plain on the shore by a
+steep rocky tract exactly similar to those on the roads to Marsa
+Sousah and Derna. About two hours to the westward of this point, we
+reached Sousah Hamema, which occupies the point called Ras Sem, a
+name which seems to have become<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_62">[62]</span> obsolete, as none of the Arabs we spoke to
+were acquainted with it. The harbour is simply a small bay not half
+a mile wide, and perfectly open to the north. We found a small
+schooner from Canea at anchor outside. Remains of buildings were to
+be seen on both sides of the bay, and also a considerable number of
+rock tombs. The eastern side, however, which contained the greater
+number of these, was occupied by one of those pests of Barbary, a
+Zauyah, which prevented our making an examination of it. As there
+was nothing of interest to detain us, we left in the evening to
+return to Cyrene. Night overtook us in the plain at the foot of the
+Augubah; but after dark we saw at some distance the light of a
+fire, which guided us to an Arab camp, where we passed the night.
+The following day we returned to Cyrene by a path some five or six
+miles to the eastward of the one by which we had gone to Sousah
+Hamema the day before. In traversing the lower plateau, both going
+and coming, we very often passed the traces of ancient roads, and
+the remains of tombs and other buildings, which clearly showed that
+the whole plain had at a former period been thickly inhabited.</p>
+
+<p>Having now examined the sites of all the cities of the
+Pentapolis except Teuchira and Ptolemais, we proposed to visit
+those places before the hot weather set in for the summer. The
+month of April is by far the most agreeable season for travelling
+in this part of Africa. The water which has collected here and
+there during the winter is not yet dried up by the heat of the sun,
+so that a sufficient quantity for replenishing the water-skins can
+always be obtained without much trouble. The heavy rains which make
+a winter journey so unpleasant, are by this time past, the weather
+is cool and bright, and the country is covered with a varied
+vegetation which adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery. Later
+in the year, the traveller would fail to recognize many a lovely
+valley which he had admired only a month or two before.</p>
+
+<p>We left Cyrene on the 13th of April, accompanied by Amor and
+three of his friends in the capacity of guides and escort, with a
+camel to carry our tent, bedding, and provisions. Taking the road
+to Merdj and Benghazi, we passed close to the Zauyah El Beidah and
+along the beautiful Wady Il Aggur to Gusr Biligadem, where we
+encamped for the night. Many parts of the road, and particularly
+the eight or nine miles through the Wady Il Aggur, were rich and
+beautiful beyond description. Trees and shrubs were in full bloom,
+and flowers of endless variety hung in clusters from the branches
+of the trees, twined up the faces of the cliffs, and covered the
+fresh greensward at our feet, filling the air with the most
+delicious perfume. Roses, honeysuckle, myrtle, and oleander grew in
+great profusion. The country sometimes appeared a literal bed of
+roses.</p>
+
+<p>While riding along the wady, we noticed that the partridges,
+when disturbed, had the peculiar habit of alighting on trees, in
+which position we shot three or four of them.</p>
+
+<p>Our next day’s journey was also through a very fine country, the
+road passing over a succession of hills and valleys. The hills were
+generally overgrown with juniper, arbutus, and brushwood, with
+occasionally trees of larger growth, such as the oak, the carub or
+locust-tree, and the olive; and the valleys were either sown with
+grain or left fallow for pasture. After travelling eight hours and
+a half, we pitched our tent in a gully near an Arab camp, where we
+were soon joined by a large party of Arabs on their way to
+Benghazi. They were all very civil, and the women in the camp
+prepared a huge dish of bazeen for our supper, besides supplying us
+liberally with water and leben. We shared with the company the
+partridges we had shot, and gave them what they had never seen
+before,—a cup of tea. The partridges were cooked <em>au
+naturel</em> in a very primitive manner, being simply thrown into
+the fire as they were, feathers and all.</p>
+
+<p>It may be mentioned here that the Arabs are much more scrupulous
+than the Turks regarding the sin of eating unclean animals, or such
+as have not been killed by a Mahommedan according to the
+requirements of the Koran. When an animal is to be killed, the
+operator,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> before
+cutting its throat, turns its head in the direction of Mecca, and
+invokes a blessing. The short prayer, the look towards the Gibli,
+and the letting of blood afterwards, are the three essential forms
+which must in all cases be complied with. The attention paid to
+this law was of great convenience to us when shooting in the
+company of our Arab attendants, as it saved us the trouble of
+picking up the game we killed. Whenever a bird fell, one of the
+Arabs was sure to rush after it, knife in hand, to take its life in
+an orthodox manner before it had given its final kick. They could
+thus partake with a clear conscience of what we had shot during the
+day; otherwise they had to content themselves with a piece of dry
+bread or biscuit for dinner. The Arabs themselves hardly ever
+shoot, powder and lead being much too valuable to throw away on any
+game less noble than man.</p>
+
+<p>About half an hour after starting on the following morning, the
+15th, we came to a group of ancient wells, some four or five in
+number, called the “Libiar Il Gharib.” They were carefully lined
+with masonry, and contained a good supply of excellent water. Many
+such wells and cisterns still exist as the monuments of a former
+age; but, with a few rare exceptions, they are now choked up and
+dilapidated. We halted here for about an hour to draw water for the
+camel and the horses, and to let the Arabs have their breakfast.
+From Il Gharib the same hilly country continued for about three
+hours, after which the road emerged on the large plain of Bograta,
+which is surrounded by hills, and contains a few half-ruined wells.
+We halted a few minutes at a camp near the end of the plain, where
+we drank camel’s milk for the first time. It is considered
+wholesome, but is certainly not very palatable, as it tastes
+somewhat like cow’s milk mixed with salt. Leaving Bograta, the road
+led through a gorge in the mountains, from the mouth of which we
+looked down upon the great plain of Merdj, stretching away to the
+south and west as far as the eye could reach.</p>
+
+<p>We had heard from Benghazi that our old friend Hadji Achmet Bin
+’l Agha had resigned his governorship, and was at Benghazi on his
+way home; so that, on our arrival at the castle in the afternoon,
+we were most agreeably surprised to find him back again as hearty
+and hospitable as ever. He gave us a most cordial welcome, and
+seemed truly delighted to see us. He had none of the ceremonial
+politeness so common in the East, but was really a downright
+honest, good-hearted fellow, a perfect John Bull, both in
+appearance and disposition.</p>
+
+<p>As it was past noon when we arrived, we stayed all night at the
+castle, where, besides Hadji Achmet himself, we found the
+newly-appointed Mudirs of Ghegheb and Derna and a military
+kaimacam, who had been sent from Tripoli as receiver-general of the
+miri, or tribute, from the country east of Benghazi. They were
+accompanied by Suliman Captan, one of the most remarkable men in
+the country. He was the grandson of a Scotch captain, who had
+turned Mahommedan, and settled in Tripoli, where he became a sort
+of admiral under the Beys of the Karamanli dynasty. Suliman Captan
+was Mudir of Ghegheb immediately before Lemin Ben Sitewi, and
+during his tenure of office acquired a great reputation for the
+courageous manner in which he kept the Arabs under his control. The
+tribes about Cyrene still retained a lively recollection of his own
+rule. On one occasion, however, his boldness nearly cost him his
+life. A tribe of Arabs having refused to pay their miri, he went to
+their camps, attended by only eight soldiers, to insist upon
+payment. Thinking this a favourable opportunity for paying off many
+an old score, the tribe surrounded him in overpowering numbers,
+determined to take his life. Nothing daunted, he cut his way
+through the whole mob, and succeeded in gaining the castle,
+although with no less than four bullets in his body. A broad scar
+right across his forehead marks the track of a ball from which he
+can have escaped with his life only by a hair’s breadth.</p>
+
+<p>The new Mudir of Ghegheb, as we were informed by a letter from
+Mr. Crowe, had received the most stringent orders from the Kaimacam
+to attend to our requisitions, and afford us every assistance in
+his power. He seemed a weak, mild individual, not at all fitted for
+the difficult task of extracting<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_64">[64]</span> the due amount of tribute from the unruly
+tribes he had to deal with, and still less to be of much use to us,
+should we ever have occasion to require his intervention on our
+behalf. We were told by Hadji Achmet that the Pacha of Tripoli,
+aware of his weakness, had appointed as his official adviser the
+famous Bou Bakr Ben Hadood, the head of the large tribe of Birasa,
+who had been governor of the Ghegheb district for many years, both
+under the Karamanlis and the Turks. On our return to Cyrene, we
+found that this appointment had stirred up the wrath of our
+neighbours, the Haasa, who had never forgiven Bou Bakr for their
+signal defeat by him at Labrak. Their mutual hatred and fear gave
+rise, as we shall presently see, to serious disturbances.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i49"><a href="images/i49.jpg"><img src='images/i49.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 49.—Arab Camp near Teuchira.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>We remained at Merdj till the middle of the following day, when
+we started for Teuchira. The road led, in a north-western
+direction, from the castle over a level grassy plain, which
+gradually sloped up to the brink of the Augubah, near which we
+pitched our tent for the night, close to an Arab encampment. The
+country was better cultivated and more thickly inhabited than any
+part of the Cyrenaica we had yet seen. Early next morning, the
+17th, we descended the Augubah by a much better road than those at
+Marsa Sousah and Derna, and reached the ruins of Teuchira in about
+two hours, the distance from Merdj being altogether about eight. We
+encamped in one of the large quarries, to the eastward of the
+city.</p>
+
+<p>Teuchira, named by the Ptolemies, Arsinoë, is now called Tocra,
+an Arabic corruption of its original name. It stands on the
+sea-shore, about two miles from the foot of the Augubah, and about
+38 miles from Benghazi (Hesperis). The remains of the ancient city
+are of comparatively little interest, and consist for the most part
+of indefinite heaps of ruined buildings belonging to the period of
+the Roman occupation of the country. The city wall, rebuilt by the
+Emperor Justinian, is in good preservation, and in many places
+still stands to its original<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_65">[65]</span> height. In its circuit of nearly a mile and a
+half, there are altogether twenty-six quadrangular towers, which
+project from the general line of the wall, for the purpose of flank
+defence. Within the walls, we could distinguish the sites of
+several temples and churches, in one of which we observed a Greek
+cross deeply engraved on a stone; but not a vestige of marble was
+anywhere to be seen. Outside the city are a number of quarries, in
+the sides of which there are many excavated tombs. These are
+generally plain chambers, devoid of ornament of any kind; a few,
+however, are painted, and some of them contain inscriptions cut on
+small faces sunk in the face of the rock, which have a remarkable
+resemblance to mural tablets in churches at the present day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i50">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 50.</p>
+<a href="images/i50_large.jpg"><img src='images/i50.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">RUINS OF PTOLEMAIS</p>
+
+<p class="ipubr"><a href="images/i50_large_alt.jpg">[ALT JPG]</a>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The country in the vicinity abounded with partridges, quail,
+snipe, pigeons, and doves. The weather on the day of our arrival
+was very disagreeable, squalls and heavy showers coming on at
+frequent intervals. Next day, the 18th, was little better; but as
+we had passed a most comfortless and sleepless night amid swarms of
+fleas, and as nothing of interest remained to be seen, we started
+about mid-day for Tolmeitah (Ptolemais).</p>
+
+<p>There was a very fair road following the line of the shore the
+whole way. We saw no remarkable ruins, although we occasionally
+passed the remains of ancient buildings. Towards evening we came
+within view of a high building that marks from a great distance the
+situation of Tolmeitah. As we approached, we found that it was a
+large tomb of excellent construction, about half a mile to the
+westward of the city. It was now getting dark, and we pitched our
+tent in an ancient quarry between the large tomb and the western
+gate of the city, choosing this spot, as at Tocra, on account of
+the shelter it afforded from the wind. The distance from Tocra was
+altogether seven hours and a half, or about twenty-five miles. Some
+Arabs, who had halted for the night in the next quarry to ours,
+were very anxious to sell us part of a dead camel, and seemed quite
+astonished when we told them we would not have it if they offered
+it for nothing. The animal they said had broken down, and they had
+cut its throat “to save its life,” so that the flesh was perfectly
+good for food.</p>
+
+<p>The two following days were spent in examining the ruins under
+the guidance of the Arabs of a small encampment we found near the
+foot of the hills. We were sorry to hear from them that we had just
+missed meeting an English man-of-war, which had anchored off
+Tolmeitah the day before our arrival. From their description we
+conjectured rightly that it was the <em>Medina</em>, Captain
+Spratt, then surveying the coast, preparatory to the laying of the
+Malta and Alexandria telegraph cable. Three of the officers,
+accompanied by an interpreter, had landed and remained on shore
+half the day.</p>
+
+<p>The position of Ptolemais is very similar to that of Teuchira
+and Apollonia, the only difference being that at Ptolemais the
+ground rises more rapidly from the shore to the foot of the hills,
+which at this point come to within a mile and a quarter from the
+coast. The city, which is nearly square in form, occupies the whole
+breadth of the slope between the hills and the sea, and is inclosed
+by walls which can still be distinctly traced. The great gateway in
+the western wall is still standing, and is remarkable for the
+excellence of its masonry. It is built of massive ashlar-work
+without mortar, the stones of which are laid in alternate courses
+of “headers” and “stretchers,” like English bond brickwork. The
+faces of the stones are roughly dressed, and the joints deeply sunk
+like the “rustic” work of the present day. The otherwise unbroken
+surface of the walls is thereby relieved, and the general
+appearance of the building greatly improved.</p>
+
+<p>The eastern wall of the city follows the side of a small ravine
+leading to the sea from one of the Wadys in the range of hills
+above. At a point nearly opposite the centre of the wall, this
+ravine is spanned by the arch of a bridge still standing, which
+appears to have been built for an aqueduct, which we could trace
+distinctly for some distance from the city. Within the walls the
+aqueduct led in the direction of a series of enormous reservoirs
+near the centre of the city, which were pointed out to us by one of
+the Arabs. Guided by him, we crept underground through
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> small opening into
+a chamber, about one hundred feet long and twenty feet broad,
+completely arched over, from which we passed through a series of
+about half a dozen similar vaults, all of apparently the same size,
+and connected with each other by doorways in the walls below the
+springing of the semicircular arches of the roofs. They were
+beautifully built of ashlar-work, and lined with cement, but were
+so filled up with rubbish that we could not make out either their
+exact length or their number, as only parts of them were clear
+enough to allow a passage. In one or two of them there was a little
+water, to which some goats had found their way by a larger opening
+than that by which we entered. They were, doubtless, built by the
+Romans, and must have been of the greatest benefit to the city, as
+the country along the shore is much more liable to droughts than
+the high land beyond the Augubah. “We are informed,” says Beechey,
+“that the town of Ptolemeta suffered at one time so severely from
+want of water, that the inhabitants were obliged to relinquish
+their houses and disperse themselves about the country in different
+directions. The reparation of the aqueducts and cisterns of the
+town, which, it seems, had fallen into decay, restored Ptolemeta to
+its former flourishing state; and this act is recorded among many
+others of a similar nature performed at the command of Justinian in
+the eulogy of that emperor by Procopius. As Ptolemeta is unprovided
+with springs, the care of its reservoirs and aqueducts must have
+been at all times peculiarly essential; and we find that its
+buildings of this class are among the most perfect of its existing
+remains.”</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i51"><a href="images/i51.jpg"><img src='images/i51.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 51.—Gateway in the Western Wall of
+Ptolemais.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Close by the entrance to the reservoirs stand three Ionic
+columns, the most conspicuous objects among the ruins of the city.
+They seem to have formed part of a colonnade which surrounded a
+space paved with mosaic immediately over the reservoirs. There are
+some Corinthian and Doric columns lying on the ground, which also
+appear to have formed part of the same colonnade. There is no trace
+of building within the inclosure.</p>
+
+<p>Between the reservoirs and the sea are the remains of a very
+large building, the walls of<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_67">[67]</span> which are still standing to a considerable
+height, although there is nothing left to denote with certainty
+what the nature of the building was. It may, very probably, have
+been a Roman bath.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i52">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 52.</p>
+<a href="images/i52_large.jpg"><img src='images/i52.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">TOMBS TO THE WESTWARD OF PTOLEMAIS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i53">
+<p class="cp1">PTOLEMAIS.<br>
+PLAN OF A CONSPICUOUS TOMB ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE CITY.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 53.</p>
+<a href="images/i53_large.jpg"><img src='images/i53.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Close to where the western wall touches the shore, there is a
+small harbour protected by a projecting point of land, and a small
+rocky island, which were at one time connected by an artificial
+pier. The space thus inclosed is so shallow, and so limited in
+extent, that it can only have been available for a few light
+vessels.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the remains of Ptolemais, the most prominent is the large
+tomb to the westward of the city, which we passed on the evening of
+our arrival (Plates <a href="#i52">52</a> and <a href=
+"#i53">53</a>). It is 55 feet in height, and is still in very
+perfect condition. It is built on a square platform of rock with
+scarped sides, about five or six feet above the surrounding ground,
+and contains a central chamber which occupies the whole length of
+the tomb, with lateral recesses for the reception of the
+sarcophagi. Close to the entrance is a staircase, which we found
+sufficiently perfect to enable us to climb to the top. In the
+neighbourhood are a number of quarries containing excavated tombs
+similar to those at Teuchira, many of which have the names of the
+occupants inscribed on the face of the rock.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i54"><a href="images/i54.jpg"><img src='images/i54.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 54.—Inscriptions over the Entrances to the
+Tombs at Ptolemais.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our last night at Ptolemais was a very uncomfortable one, on
+account of a very strong gibli, or southerly wind, which nearly
+choked us with clouds of dust and sand, and necessitated our
+turning out every half-hour to hammer in the pegs of the tent. We
+packed up at daybreak, and after paying a last visit to the ruins,
+started for Merdj about the middle of the day on the 21st. After
+riding about two miles to the westward of the city, we turned up
+one of the wadys to our left, and commenced the ascent of the
+Augubah. The strong gibli was still blowing, so that although we
+were greatly sheltered by the range of hills, it made our journey
+very fatiguing and unpleasant. When about half-way up, we found
+that our guides had mistaken the path, and brought us to a regular
+<em>cul de sac</em>, from which there was no exit but by returning
+as we came, or climbing what appeared the insurmountable hill in
+front. We chose the latter alternative, and after nearly an hour’s
+exertions, reached the top with our horses, where we lay down under
+some bushes to wait for the camel. We soon found, however, that it
+was impossible to get him up, so we left the drivers to seek the
+proper pass, while we rode on in the direction of Merdj. It was
+difficult to find a way across country among the almost impassable
+wadys by which we were surrounded; but after a two hours’ ride we
+had the satisfaction of seeing before us the great<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> plain of Merdj, dotted over with
+Arab camps. Thoroughly parched by the exertion of climbing, and the
+burning heat of the gibli, we hurried to the nearest tents for
+something to quench our thirst. The cool fresh leben, which was
+readily offered us by the women, was peculiarly refreshing.</p>
+
+<p>A little after sunset we reached the castle, where we were
+greeted by the cheery welcome of our kind friend Hadji Achmet. A
+really sumptuous dinner of bread, rice, mutton, and eggs, was soon
+prepared and most heartily partaken of. Fatigued as we were with a
+hard day’s work after a sleepless night, we thoroughly enjoyed the
+luxury of sleeping on the soft bed-quilts so mindfully provided by
+our host.</p>
+
+<p>The camel with our baggage arrived the following day at 11
+o’clock; and about the same time Amor, whom we had sent with
+letters from Teuchira to Benghazi, made his appearance. As there
+was now nothing to detain us, we started at three in the afternoon
+for Cyrene, after taking leave of Hadji Achmet, who, as usual,
+loaded us with presents of corn and provisions. The hot gibli was
+now blowing more fiercely than ever, and felt as if it came from
+the mouth of a furnace. The air was so thick with impalpably fine
+sand that even the sun was invisible. Several square miles of the
+plain around us were covered with magnificent crops of nearly
+full-grown wheat, which I found, on a subsequent visit, were
+utterly destroyed by this day’s gibli. Between nine and ten o’clock
+we reached the Libiar Il Gharib, near which we passed the night in
+a hollow of the rock, which was preferable to the tent during the
+hot wind. Wrapped up in our burnouses, we slept soundly,
+notwithstanding the rain which came on in the night, and from which
+the overhanging rock only partially sheltered us. The following day
+we continued our journey, and encamped at night at our old
+halting-place, Gusr Biligadem. The gibli had by this time given way
+to a fresh cool breeze from the north, which completely transformed
+the aspect of the country. Next day (the 24th) we reached our
+quarters at Cyrene, glad to find ourselves again at home. During
+our absence of twelve days, we had travelled over about 250 miles,
+the distance in hours being as follows:—</p>
+
+<table id="t068">
+<tr>
+<td>From Cyrene to Zauyah El Beidah</td>
+<td class="tdc">3½</td>
+<td>hours.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Gusr Biligadem</td>
+<td class="tdc">9</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Gusr Merdj</td>
+<td class="tdc">25</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Merdj to
+Teuchira</td>
+<td class="tdc">7¾</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Teuchira to
+Ptolemais</td>
+<td class="tdc">7½</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Ptolemais to
+Merdj</td>
+<td class="tdc">5½</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Merdj to Libiar
+Il Gharib</td>
+<td class="tdc">7</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="word-spaced4">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> <span class=
+"word-spaced8">&nbsp;„&nbsp;</span> Gusr Biligadem</td>
+<td class="tdc">16</td>
+<td class="tdc">„</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>During the fortnight that elapsed between our return to Cyrene
+and the arrival of the <em>Assurance</em>, a serious disturbance
+arose in the country, caused, as already mentioned, by the
+appointment of Bou Bakr Ben Hadood as the official adviser and
+associate of the new Mudir of Ghegheb. According to custom, the
+sheikhs of the different tribes, and among others the ten sheikhs
+of the Haasa, among whom we lived, went to the castle to pay their
+respects to the newly-appointed governor. Before this time,
+however, Bou Bakr had told the Mudir that the Haasa sheikhs were a
+rebellious, turbulent set, whom he should seize and imprison on the
+first favourable opportunity. Their coming to the castle on a
+peaceful errand was accordingly taken advantage of for carrying
+this sage advice into execution. The men of the tribe, on learning
+that their sheikhs had fallen into the power of their old enemy,
+appealed to us for assistance, and requested us to write to the
+consul at Benghazi, to obtain the liberation of their chiefs. We
+told them that, as the matter in no way concerned ourselves or any
+one in our service, it was impossible for us to interfere. They
+thereupon called a medjlis, or assembly of the whole tribe,
+in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> which it was
+determined to release the sheikhs by force before further evil
+should befall them. They accordingly assembled, to the number of
+about 1,000, in the neighbourhood of the castle, and attacked it at
+midnight. The gate soon yielded to their blows, and the garrison
+was at their mercy. Some firing had meantime taken place, in which
+six Arabs and two soldiers were killed or wounded. The prisoners
+were immediately released; but the castle was searched in vain for
+Bou Bakr, who had wisely retired the day before to the camps of his
+own tribe of Birasa.</p>
+
+<p>The sheikhs, however, were no sooner at liberty than they began
+to reflect on the unpleasant position they were placed in by the
+rash zeal of their followers. The Sultan’s castle had been
+attacked, and the Sultan’s soldiers killed; and although they
+themselves had been prisoners at the time, they knew that it would
+be vain to disavow their complicity in the act of their tribe. Such
+an open and violent insult to the Government must, they feared, be
+in some way avenged by the Pacha, who might possibly send hosts of
+soldiers to exterminate the tribe. At all events, they would suffer
+severely by being excluded from their only markets, Benghazi and
+Derna, by the fear of their falling into the hands of the Pacha. A
+Medjlis was called to deliberate on their difficulties, at which it
+was determined to make a second application to us for assistance.
+The sheikhs accordingly came to our quarters, and in the name of
+the whole tribe begged us to intercede in their behalf. They urged
+that they had been imprisoned simply to gratify Bou Bakr, and for
+no offence of their own; nevertheless, that, to preserve the peace,
+they had represented to the Mudir that they could not answer for
+the consequences if at least one of their number were not allowed
+out of prison to control the passions of the Arabs, while the
+remaining nine were retained as hostages. As this was refused, and
+they were all kept in close confinement, they knew nothing of what
+was going on until they heard the firing and battering at the gate
+of the Castle during the assault. It would, therefore, be unjust to
+punish them for a crime of which they were perfectly innocent, and
+it would even be hard to hold the tribe responsible for its actions
+when suddenly and treacherously deprived of the advice and guidance
+of their only chiefs. It was certainly wrong to attack the Castle;
+but what was to be expected in the circumstances; and had they not
+warned the Mudir of the consequences of his own act? Besides, by
+appealing to us in the first instance, the tribe had taken the only
+peaceable means they had of obtaining the release of their
+sheikhs.</p>
+
+<p>We asked them why they did not tell or write all this to the
+Pacha, who was the proper judge of their conduct. Their answer was,
+“You know yourselves well enough what the result would be; our
+remonstrances would never be listened to, and we or our messengers
+would only be seized and imprisoned with irons: our only hope in a
+case like this is in the Consul.” We said that if the Consul
+interfered, the Pacha had a perfect right to say, “Are the Haasa
+Arabs Englishmen? This is none of your business.” “There is no
+chance,” replied they, “of his saying anything of the kind; when
+the Consul speaks, the Pacha must obey.”</p>
+
+<p>As we knew very well that the Pacha had not the power to punish
+the tribe, we thought it probable that he would be glad of any
+excuse for saving his dignity by pardoning the offence. We
+therefore believed that our intercession would be as welcome on the
+one side as on the other; and, if successful, that it would be most
+useful to ourselves, by establishing our influence over the tribe
+in whose country we resided.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Crowe having left for England, we wrote to the above effect
+to Mr. Aquilina, then acting as vice-consul at Benghazi, and
+requested him to use his own discretion in bringing the matter
+before the Kaimacam. He immediately called at the Castle, and read
+a translation of our letter to the Kaimacam, who, as we had
+conjectured, readily promised to pardon the tribe. We soon after
+received a letter from the Kaimacam himself, informing us that, in
+consequence of our intercession, he had been pleased to forgive the
+Haasa the very serious crime of which they had been guilty, on
+condition of their good behaviour and prompt payment of the Miri in
+future.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span>This letter
+reached us soon after the arrival of the <em>Assurance</em>, when
+Mr. De Fremeaux was with us on a visit from Derna. Immediately
+after its receipt, we summoned the sheikhs to a meeting, at which
+Mr. De Fremeaux read and explained the letter of the Kaimacam.
+Highly delighted with the happy termination of their difficulties,
+they were profuse in their expressions of thanks, and said that
+they and their tribe were now our servants for ever.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after our return from Ptolemais, and before the
+above disturbances took place, we went to pay a visit to the Mudir
+at Ghegheb, where we also found Bou Bakr and some of his sons.
+Although nearly seventy years of age, he seemed as strong and
+active as a man of thirty. It is said that although Cyrene was the
+site selected for the existing castle, Bou Bakr, who was Mudir at
+the time of its erection, had it built, for obvious reasons, in the
+territory of his own tribe at Ghegheb. It is exactly similar in
+construction to the Castle of Merdj, and stands on a slight
+eminence in a sheltered position surrounded by hills. The country
+in the neighbourhood is bare and desolate; the only recommendation
+of the site being an abundant spring of excellent water, which
+issues from the rock under the southern wall of the Castle. About
+seven miles and a half from Cyrene, we passed a most remarkable
+place, called by the Arabs Safsaf, where there are a number of
+reservoirs similar to those at Ptolemais, but on a much larger
+scale. One of them, which is cut in the rock and lined with cement,
+is about sixty yards in length, and is still in very perfect
+condition. It is covered with a continuous semicircular arch, which
+springs from near the ground-line. Although in a great measure
+filled up, it contained a large quantity of water when we saw it.
+These cisterns appear to have been built by the Romans for the
+supply of Cyrene, as an aqueduct may be traced a great part of the
+way to the large reservoirs, also Roman, at the south-east corner
+of the city. Safsaf was evidently chosen as the site of the
+waterworks of Cyrene on account of its position, which is rather
+above the level of the city, and is surrounded by higher ground,
+which could be easily drained into the reservoirs. The distance is
+considerable; but there is no other point nearer Cyrene so well
+adapted for the purpose.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i55">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF THE LARGE TEMPLE AT THE N.E. END OF THE CITY NEAR THE
+STADIUM.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 55.</p>
+<a href="images/i55_large.jpg"><img src='images/i55.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr"><em>Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_71">[71]</span><a id="c11"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">IT will be remembered that while the
+<em>Assurance</em> was with us, seven blacks, sent by Mr. Aquilina,
+arrived from Benghazi, and assisted in the transport of the
+statues. With these men we recommenced work on the 9th of June, by
+beginning the excavation of the large temple in the eastern part of
+the city, near the Stadium. The site seemed very promising, both on
+account of the extent and the apparently undisturbed state of the
+remains of the building. In fact, we had been prevented solely by
+want of workmen from digging here long before, as the temple was by
+far the largest, if not the most important, in Cyrene. We began as
+usual at the western end of the building, where we soon came to a
+large pedestal, 20 feet square, and 10 feet in height above the
+pavement. The total length of the temple, which consisted of
+<em>Pronaos</em>, <em>Cella</em>, and <em>Posticum</em>, was 169½
+feet, by 58 feet in breadth. The interior of the <em>Cella</em>,
+108 feet in length, was ornamented on each side with a marble
+colonnade of the Corinthian order. The bases of most of the columns
+were found <em>in situ</em> on square pedestals, projecting from
+the lateral walls. They were two feet in diameter, with an
+intercolumniation of seven feet. The wall of the <em>Cella</em> was
+built of stones of immense size, the surface of some of them
+measuring upwards of 40 square feet. Enough of the wall was left to
+show the manner in which it was built. The courses were alternately
+of long blocks of stone, about a foot deep, and equal in breadth to
+the thickness of the wall, and of large slabs laid on edge, back to
+back; care being taken to have the work well bonded. The marble
+<em>peribolus</em> wall of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus was built
+in an exactly similar manner, strength being, in both cases,
+sacrificed to appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The exterior colonnade consisted altogether of forty-six
+columns; viz. seventeen on the sides and eight on the ends or
+fronts of the building. As in all the temples of Cyrene, the
+entrance was in the eastern front. The order was Doric, and the
+stone was the same as that of the temples of Bacchus and Apollo. As
+nearly as we could make out, the columns, which were fluted, were
+six feet in diameter at the base; but as they were much worn away,
+it was impossible to measure them very exactly. They had all fallen
+outwards, and many of the capitals, measuring nine feet in
+diameter, were to be seen cropping out above the surface of the
+ground. The architraves and beams must have been of great size, as
+the columns were 14 feet apart centre from centre, and 18 feet from
+the face of the wall of the <em>Cella</em>. The building stood
+within two degrees of due east and west.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of our excavations we came upon innumerable
+fragments of sculpture, evidently of excellent style; but nothing
+was found in the least degree perfect. Amongst them we found, in
+the middle of the <em>Cella</em>, between the pillars, a male head
+in white marble, much mutilated, being nearly cracked in two and
+the nose broken off. It had been well executed, and the lips still
+retained a bright light-red colour. This head is rather larger than
+life. Even the marble columns of the interior of the <em>Cella</em>
+were broken in small pieces, which could not have been the result
+of natural causes. Although the appearance of the remains clearly
+showed that the temple had been wantonly destroyed by the hand of
+man, the discovery of fragments of good style induced us to
+continue the excavation of the building.</p>
+
+<p>In the <em>Pronaos</em>, and close to the entrance, we found a
+block of marble measuring 4′ 6″ × 2′ 1″ × 1′, with the inscription
+given in Plates <a href="#i78">78,</a> <a href="#i79">79,</a> No.
+6, and on the opposite side of the <em>Pronaos</em>, a smaller
+slab, measuring 1′ 4″ × 1′ 3″ × 3″, with the inscription in two
+columns given in <a href="#i79">Plate 79,</a> No 7. Both these
+contain lists of names, probably of persons contributing to some
+public subscription.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span>We also found
+fragments of an inscribed architrave of sandstone, and some pieces
+of copper and iron; among which may be mentioned a circular piece
+of iron, half an inch in thickness, with two handles like a small
+tub without a bottom. It was 8½ inches in diameter, and 6½ inches
+in height.</p>
+
+<p>As there was no hope of finding anything undestroyed, we
+abandoned the building, after spending seven weeks in its
+excavation, the only part left unfinished being the centre of the
+<em>Cella</em>, which was covered with enormous blocks from the
+side walls. Outside the <em>Cella</em>, we only dug sufficiently
+far to discover the exact positions of the columns of the
+peristyle.</p>
+
+<p>On the 17th of June, only nine days after the departure of the
+<em>Assurance</em>, we were most agreeably surprised by the
+unexpected appearance at our tomb of a large party of naval
+officers, consisting of Captain Jones and some of the officers of
+H.M.S. <em>Scourge</em>. They were the bearers of a telegram and a
+letter from Mr. Panizzi, by which we were informed that the
+trustees of the British Museum had voted us a further sum of £500,
+and had sent out a carpenter, Mr. Wm. Dennison, to assist in
+packing the statues, &amp;c. He arrived in the <em>Scourge</em>,
+and remained with us till our departure from the country. Although
+there was little carpenter’s work to be done till near the close of
+the expedition, he was of great service in superintending the
+workmen.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>Scourge</em> had anchored off Marsa Sousah early in the
+morning, when Captain Jones and the rest of the party immediately
+started for Cyrene, guided by the directions given them by the
+officers of the <em>Assurance</em>. They lost their way, however,
+in climbing the Augubah, and did not reach Cyrene till nearly
+sunset, much fatigued by their long day’s wandering under a burning
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>The following day, the 18th of June, being the anniversary of
+the birth of the Prophet, there was a great gathering of the Arabs
+on the upper plateau near Cyrene to celebrate the festival of the
+<em>Melood</em>, which we attended as spectators by the invitation
+of the sheikhs. When the men were all assembled, they dismounted
+and ranged themselves in a line of two ranks, with their horses
+picketed in the rear. A long prayer was then repeated aloud by the
+whole line, who made the usual prostrations together, like a
+regiment at drill. Prayers over, they remounted their horses, and
+the tournament began. An open level space being chosen, those about
+to engage in the games placed themselves in two irregular lines,
+facing each other, about 150 yards apart, the mere spectators like
+ourselves remaining at the sides. The object of the game, or rather
+exercise, is to show the skill of the rider in handling his weapons
+and directing his horse when at full gallop. A man, for instance,
+breaks out from one of the lines, and canters carelessly toward the
+other. Presently another horseman dashes after him in pursuit, and
+they tear along, <em>ventre à terre</em>, till they come close up
+to the opposite line, when they unsling their guns, aim, and fire
+at each other, at the same moment wheeling sharply to the
+right-about to avoid running into the line in front. At other times
+a number of men gallop straight up to the opposite line, deliver
+their fire, and wheel when at full speed, within a yard or two of
+the stationary line. Sometimes two horsemen engage in a sort of
+running duel, each man riding at full speed, and using pistols,
+blunderbuss, gun, and bayonet. Collisions at the wheeling-point
+were not unfrequent; and as the horses were always going at a great
+pace, it was wonderful that no one was killed. Some of the men were
+bruised and their horses lamed, and one man had several ribs
+broken. In consequence of the general introduction of firearms,
+this kind of amusement has taken the place of the older lance
+exercise and the throwing of the jereed.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>Scourge</em> being about to proceed to Alexandria to
+assist in laying the Malta telegraph cable, Captain Jones kindly
+offered to give us a passage to Derna if we wished to revisit that
+place. As we were in want of a number of things, we were glad to
+avail ourselves of the opportunity of going. We accordingly left
+Cyrene with Captain Jones and the other officers<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span> on the afternoon of the 18th,
+and got on board the same night. We started the following morning
+at daybreak, and anchored off Derna late in the afternoon, when we
+went ashore, and occupied our old quarters at Mr. De Fremeaux’s
+house, the <em>Scourge</em> leaving soon after for Alexandria.
+Captain Jones had previously most kindly allowed us to take from
+the ship everything likely to prove useful to us. We remained at
+Derna two days, buying articles in the bazaar, and waiting for our
+horses and camels, which we had sent by land from Cyrene. When
+these had been somewhat rested after their arrival, we started on
+our return journey, and by travelling all night, with only an hour
+or two’s halt, reached Cyrene within twenty hours. Among other
+things which we brought from Derna were some thin deals, with which
+we furnished our tomb with a table, shelves, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>By this time our money was beginning to run short, and we hardly
+knew how we were to get a fresh supply. The trustees of the British
+Museum having given us authority to draw bills on them to the
+amount of £500, we were anxious, if possible, to get more workmen,
+and carry on our excavations on a larger scale during the remaining
+months of summer. As writing was apt to cause delay, I determined
+to go to Benghazi myself for the purpose of getting both money and
+men. I started on the afternoon of the 6th of July, accompanied by
+a single mounted Arab; and as time was now an object of great
+importance, I took no camels, and consequently had neither water
+nor baggage of any kind. By halting only a few hours each night, I
+reached Merdj at mid-day on the 8th, and left the same evening for
+Benghazi. Travelling all night and all next day, we arrived at
+Benghazi shortly after sunset on the 9th; thus accomplishing the
+whole journey of 160 miles in three days, and without water after
+leaving Merdj on the evening of the 8th. It was, of course, most
+fatiguing work both for man and horse, especially during the day,
+when the heat of the sun and the want of water were together almost
+intolerable.</p>
+
+<p>As it would have been unsafe to carry a sum of money with me,
+Mr. Aquilina gave me two orders, one on Mr. De Fremeaux, at Derna,
+and the other on our friend Mohammed El Adouly, from both of whom
+we were to draw the amount in instalments as we required it. This
+proved, as was to be expected, a most convenient arrangement,
+although a Bedouin camp seemed an odd place for negotiating bills
+and keeping a banker’s account.</p>
+
+<p>I had no difficulty in getting as many workmen as I wanted. The
+morning after my arrival Mr. Aquilina sent for the Sheikh Il Abid,
+or chief of the negroes, and told him that I wanted twenty good
+strong blacks to go to Cyrene, on the terms of five Turkish
+piastres (10<em>d.</em>) a day and food for each man. These wages
+were very high for the country; but we had found it impossible to
+keep men at Cyrene, at such a distance from their wives and
+families, except by paying them so highly that they did not like to
+give up the work; and it was always difficult to get workmen to
+supply the places of those who left, as the blacks were afraid to
+come to Cyrene by themselves, on account of the danger of being
+seized and re-enslaved by the Arabs on the way. It was therefore
+advisable to pay such wages as would not only induce the workmen to
+remain with us after they came, but, by making dismissal from our
+service a severe punishment, would give us the means of enforcing
+obedience.</p>
+
+<p>At an appointed hour, the Sheikh appeared at the Consulate with
+fifty or sixty men, all eager to be engaged; but as it would have
+been difficult to feed such a number, and as we had only a very
+limited supply of tools, I at first selected only twenty. Before
+leaving Benghazi, however, I was induced to take eight more, which,
+with the seven we already had at Cyrene, made up our number to
+thirty-five.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after my arrival at Benghazi, I was visited by the Kaimacam
+in state, attended by the “heads of departments;” viz. the Colonel
+commanding the troops, the Cadi or Judge, the Collector of customs,
+and the Sheikh El Beléd, or chief of the town. Suliman Captan and
+some of the principal Arab inhabitants also called; so that I was
+obliged to devote an entire day to returning<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_74">[74]</span> the visits. I found that the arrival and
+stay of the <em>Assurance</em> had become magnified by report into
+a much more formidable affair than it was. The Kaimacam told me
+that he had been officially informed that an English fleet had come
+to Marsa Sousah and disembarked several thousand soldiers, who were
+to be employed in occupying the country; and that the laying of the
+telegraph was only a part of a general scheme of conquest. I had
+some difficulty in disabusing his mind of the impression that we
+had some ulterior object in view in the works we were carrying on
+at Cyrene. Our statues and waggons, according to the general
+belief, were artillery; our road to the coast, a military one for
+the use of the army of occupation; and our excavations, forts and
+batteries.</p>
+
+<p>There was, of course, considerable delay in getting fairly
+started on the journey from Benghazi with such a number of blacks.
+By Mr. Aquilina’s advice I gave every man a small advance of pay,
+to enable him to get his own provisions for the journey; thereby
+saving me the trouble of providing for such a number. As there were
+no water-skins for sale in the bazaar, I had to send all over the
+town to get a sufficient number, and the endless debates with
+camel-drivers had to be undergone as usual.</p>
+
+<p>At last, everything being ready and the men collected, we
+started on the afternoon of the 12th, and after filling the
+water-skins at the Garden of Osman, halted for the night near the
+foot of the Augubah, about six hours’ distance from Benghazi.
+Although the blacks knew there was no more water to be got till we
+reached Merdj, it required the greatest vigilance to keep them from
+drinking the whole of the contents of the girbehs before the
+morning. About mid-day on the 14th we arrived at Merdj, where I was
+very sorry to find our good friend Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha
+suffering from a violent attack of fever. Long before our arrival,
+the blacks, with their usual improvidence, had eaten all the food
+they had provided for the whole journey, and I was obliged to look
+out for a fresh supply. There was no bread to be had; but I
+fortunately got a sufficient quantity of dates to serve for the
+remainder of the distance.</p>
+
+<p>After halting a day at Merdj, we resumed our journey at daybreak
+on the 16th. Shortly after passing the Libiar Il Gharib in the
+afternoon, I happened to be riding by myself through a wood about a
+mile ahead of the caravan, when my attention was attracted by about
+a dozen Arabs seated under a tree near the path, with their horses
+standing beside them. They looked rather suspicious, and commenced
+talking rapidly to each other as I came up; but as this was nothing
+unusual, I rode on, thinking that they were probably a travelling
+party halted for a rest. In a few minutes, however, I heard a loud
+shouting and screaming in the rear, and on hastening back to see
+what was the matter, I saw the negroes running in all directions,
+and in such a state of terror that it was some time before I could
+make out what had happened. I finally learned that the Arabs whom I
+had passed in the wood, had charged into the straggling caravan,
+and seized one of the negroes. While some of them were binding him
+on the back of a horse, the others formed a circle round him with
+their bayonets at the “charge,” and threatened to shoot any one
+that interfered. When their prisoner was secured, they rode off
+with him into the wood, and before I came up they had all
+disappeared. In the course of the evening I found out with some
+difficulty who the perpetrators of the outrage were; but although I
+at once wrote to Benghazi, nothing was ever done in the matter, the
+Kaimacam being unwilling, or more probably unable, to apprehend the
+offenders.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we passed Gusr Biligadem, and leaving the caravan,
+halted near the Zauyah El Beidah: I rode on the same night to
+Cyrene. The blacks arrived the following day, and told me that the
+Achwani of the Zauyah had refused to give them even a drop of
+water, because they were in the service of “Christian dogs.”</p>
+
+<p>By the time I reached Cyrene, the excavation of the large temple
+near the Stadium was almost finished, and the smaller temple near
+it had just been commenced. Before we had dug<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_75">[75]</span> far, we found unmistakeable proofs that
+the latter building, like the former, had been purposely destroyed.
+It was built on a small rocky eminence which commands one of the
+finest views to be had within the walls of the city. The
+<em>Ædes</em>, consisting of <em>Cella</em> and <em>Pronaos</em>,
+occupied the summit, the surrounding rock being cut in terraces, so
+that the peristyle was on a lower level than the <em>Ædes</em>.
+Like other temples, it stood nearly east and west. In the western
+end of the <em>Cella</em> were two courses of a pedestal measuring
+26 feet by 15, a little to the east of which the floor of the
+<em>Cella</em> sank two feet. The eastern front had so entirely
+disappeared, that a satisfactory plan of the entrance could not be
+made, and the positions of the columns marked on the <a href=
+"#i56">Plan</a> are partly conjectural. The columns themselves,
+many fragments of which were lying around the temple, were deeply
+fluted, and of the Doric order, and measured 4 feet 5 inches in
+diameter. In the eastern or lower part of the <em>Cella</em> we
+discovered a few fragments of sculpture of very fine style, but so
+small and so few in number, as to make us only sorry that there
+were no more. The most perfect of these fragments were two small
+marble statuettes, probably of Venus and the nymph Cyrene, which
+have been photographed together (<a href="#i67">Plate 67</a>); and
+perhaps the most remarkable were three or four parts of a colossal
+male head now put together in the British Museum. As it measures 1
+foot 8 inches in height, the statue to which it belonged must have
+been 11 or 12 feet high; but not another fragment of it was to be
+seen.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i56">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF THE SMALLER TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 56.</p>
+<a href="images/i56_large.jpg"><img src='images/i56.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr"><em>Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</em>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Shortly before this time, we had discovered a statue of Minerva,
+and another female dressed statue, rather larger than life, at the
+place marked on the Plan “Statue of Minerva.” Both statues were but
+little injured, so that we hoped, by digging some distance round
+the place, to find the heads. We therefore employed more than half
+our force in excavating at this place and at the other points near
+it marked on the Plan; but we discovered nothing. The removal of
+the two statues to our tomb was the first occasion on which we made
+use of the stone-trucks brought by the <em>Assurance</em>. In the
+course of the excavations, we found several <em>frusta</em> of
+fluted marble columns, which no doubt formed part of the building
+to which the statues belonged. The small building between the
+statue of Minerva and the wall of the citadel was probably a
+monument.</p>
+
+<p>On the 31st of July we returned with our whole force to the
+Temple of Apollo and its immediate neighbourhood. As already
+mentioned, it was only now that we were able to complete the
+excavation of that building. Besides the sculptures found in the
+Temple itself, we discovered on its northern and eastern sides
+altogether four statues, four statuettes, fourteen heads of
+different sizes, and seven inscriptions. A seated figure, rather
+larger than life, which was lying on the surface, was noticed by
+Beechey, who thought it was Diana; but which we made out to be
+Archippe, of the family of the Ptolemaic dynasty, from the
+following inscription on the base:—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">ΑΡΧΙΠΠΑΝΠΤΟΛΕΜΑΙΟΥ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ΕΥΙΝΙΕΡΙΤΕΥΟΥΣΑΝΠΤΟΛΕ.</div>
+
+<div class="line right vsmall"><a href="images/insc3.jpg">[JPG]</a>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">It was in a very imperfect state of preservation,
+owing to its long exposure on the surface of the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Near it we found what appeared to be a copy of itself on a small
+scale, so much alike in every respect were the two figures. The
+girdle encircling the waist was distinctly striped on both edges
+with bright vermilion. The most remarkable of the large statues
+found at this place was a colossal female figure, seven feet in
+height, in very good condition; most probably a portrait of one of
+the queens of Egypt (Photograph <a href="#i68">Plate 68</a>). The
+head was separate, and the body broken in two, the lower half of
+which was found in an upright position, and the upper half lying
+across it, with the head on the top. Another statue, life-size,
+discovered here, was a draped figure, the portrait of an old man;
+and among the smaller statues may be mentioned a nude figure of
+Bacchus, 3 feet 7 inches in height.</p>
+
+<p>At the western end of the platform, near the large theatre, we
+excavated the small building<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_76">[76]</span> marked on the Plan, in which we found a
+statuette and some small marble heads. We also examined the ruins
+toward the eastern end of the platform, but found no traces of
+sculpture in any of them.</p>
+
+<p>We finished the above excavations near the Temple of Apollo on
+the 14th of August, after which we tried nine separate buildings in
+different parts of the city without success. On the 23rd we
+commenced the excavation of the building to the westward of the
+Temple of Bacchus, marked “Palace” on the <a href="#i40">Map.</a>
+Our attention was attracted to this place by the torso of a Roman
+emperor in armour, which had been seen forty years before by
+Beechey, who was of opinion that it was the statue of one of the
+Ptolemies. Considering the number of years it must have lain
+exposed on the surface of the ground, the marble was in a
+wonderfully good state of preservation. After removing it to our
+tomb, we commenced digging in the immediate neighbourhood of the
+spot in which it was found. In the course of our excavations we
+found traces of a large building consisting of several rooms, some
+of which had their walls and floors veneered with thin slabs of
+marble. The division of the building into separate rooms, its
+central and prominent position in the city, and the nature of the
+sculpture we discovered in it, led us to believe that it had most
+probably been the palace of the Roman governor. Lying on the floor
+about four feet below the surface, we found a large female draped
+statue in very good condition, measuring 5 feet 11 inches in
+height, but without the head, which we failed to discover. We also
+found busts, life-size, of Antoninus Pius and another Roman
+emperor, quite uninjured (Photograph Plates <a href="#i69">69</a>
+and <a href="#i70">70</a>); a female bust well preserved, three
+heads, and three inscriptions. These sculptures, as they were
+found, were all thickly coated with an incrustation of sand and
+lime, which has been most successfully removed in the British
+Museum by frequently steeping them in warm water.</p>
+
+<p>From the 3rd of September little excavation was done for a
+fortnight, most of our workmen being employed in improving and
+repairing the road to Marsa Sousah, preparatory to the removal of
+the statues when a vessel should arrive. The point that
+particularly required our attention was the Augubah, near the
+shore, which had caused so much trouble and delay when the
+<em>Assurance</em> was with us. On that occasion, we had discovered
+the track of the ancient road winding round the faces of the hills
+at a comparatively easy slope; and we now resolved to make it, if
+possible, practicable for the waggons. In many parts it was almost
+quite hidden with brushwood, and in others it had totally
+disappeared, owing to the slip of its embankment or retaining-wall,
+caused by the rush of water down the steep face of the hill during
+the heavy rains in winter. By clearing away the brushwood,
+restoring cuttings and embankments, and in some places making an
+entirely new section, we succeeded in forming a road by which it
+was possible to take the waggons up and down the mountain without
+resorting to the laborious and tedious expedients which we had
+formerly been obliged to adopt. We also cleared and improved our
+old road the whole way from Cyrene.</p>
+
+<p>Meantime, a few men had been employed digging at the site marked
+“Temple of Venus,” a little to the south-west of the Temple of
+Bacchus. When the road to Marsa Sousah was finished, we employed
+all the workmen at this building, the excavation of which we had
+barely finished when H.M.S. <em>Melpomene</em> arrived on the 26th
+of September. Of the temple itself nothing but the foundations
+remained, although it yielded a large amount of sculpture.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>Ædes</em>, which consisted of <em>Cella</em> and
+<em>Pronaos</em>, was 84 feet in length by 35 feet in breadth. No
+trace of a peristyle could be found. The floor of the western half
+of the <em>Cella</em> was on a higher level than that of the rest
+of the building, access being had to it by flights of steps in
+front and at the sides, as shown in the <a href="#i57">Plan and
+Section</a>. At the corners of the steps were two circular
+pedestals, on the northern of which faint traces of an inscription
+could be seen, although it was too much worn away to be deciphered.
+In the eastern part of the <em>Cella</em> were six large pedestals
+of sandstone <em>in situ</em>, on which, in all probability, stood
+the statues which we found<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_77">[77]</span> near them. As the floor of the Temple was
+covered with only three or four feet of soil, we completed the
+excavation of the whole building in little more than a week. We
+found statues and other pieces of sculpture in every part of it,
+but did not discover either the principal statue or any inscription
+by which the Temple could certainly be identified. Our reason for
+calling it the “Temple of Venus,” was that we found in it
+altogether statues or statuettes of that goddess. One of these, a
+small nude figure of Venus Euploia, is remarkably graceful
+(Photograph <a href="#i71">Plate 71</a>). In some of the other
+figures she is represented half-draped, with Cupid by her side,
+seated on a dolphin (Photograph <a href="#i72">Plate 72</a>). Three
+of the statues discovered in this temple were life-size, or rather
+larger. One of them is the figure of a female, perhaps a queen,
+with a very peculiar head-dress (Photograph <a href="#i73">Plate
+73</a>), and the two others, which may be called a <em>pair</em> of
+statues, represent hunters equipped for the chase. The smaller
+statues, besides those of Venus, were, one of Pan, 3 feet 11 inches
+in height, and a draped one, 4 feet 8 inches in height, of Apollo
+or Aristæus resting on a rod encircled by the coils of a serpent.
+Both of these figures were all but perfect, and that of Pan still
+retained much of its original colouring. We also discovered three
+female busts in very perfect condition, two of which, of life-size,
+had curious high head-dresses, somewhat Elizabethan in appearance
+(Photograph <a href="#i74">Plate 74</a>). The other, which is
+considerably smaller, is of a peculiarly transparent marble
+resembling alabaster. Some heads were also found besides those
+belonging to the statues and statuettes; among which may be
+mentioned a perfect one of Minerva, smaller than the similar head
+found in the Temple of Apollo, and a small marble head of Perseus
+(Photograph <a href="#i75">Plate 75</a>). A slab of marble was also
+found, containing in relief a representation of Libya crowning with
+laurel the nymph Cyrene, who is in the act of strangling a lion
+(Photograph <a href="#i76">Plate 76</a>). Beneath the group, and on
+the same slab, are four lines of inscription which explain the
+allegorical myth which forms the subject of the sculpture.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i57">
+<p class="cp1">CYRENE.<br>
+PLAN OF A TEMPLE TO THE S.W. OF THE TEMPLE OF BACCHUS.<br>
+BY COMMANDER E. A. PORCHER R.N.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 57.</p>
+<a href="images/i57_large.jpg"><img src='images/i57.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="ipubr">Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the Temple of Venus we discovered altogether six statues of
+various sizes, twenty-nine small statuettes, three busts,
+twenty-six separate heads, including those which belonged to the
+statues and statuettes, one bas-relief, and three inscriptions.
+About ten yards to the eastward of the Temple we saw the two
+pedestals containing the inscriptions copied by Beechey.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="letter-spaced01"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_78">[78]</span><a id="c12"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">OWING to the want of means of communication with
+England, we had not yet (September) received answers to our letters
+sent home by the <em>Assurance</em> in June, so that we were quite
+uncertain about the arrival of a ship. In writing to Lord Russell
+and Mr. Panizzi, we had recommended that a much larger vessel than
+the <em>Assurance</em> should be sent, as it was of importance to
+save time by having a working party on shore large enough to take
+three waggons at a time. In the case of the <em>Assurance</em> we
+had found that thirty men, which was the largest number that could
+be spared, were about the proper force for a single waggon. Three
+waggons would therefore require ninety men, a number as large as we
+could safely undertake to supply with the necessary water, camels,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>We had also recommended that the vessel sent should arrive at
+Marsa Sousah before the middle of September, to insure our having
+time enough for the transport and embarkation of whatever statues
+we might find, before the fine summer weather should break up. As
+the very lightest wind from the north caused a heavy surf all along
+the beach, it was impossible to carry on boat operations except in
+perfectly calm weather. Day after day, however, passed without any
+word of the arrival of the vessel, and we began to contemplate our
+continued stay in the country for another winter, and to consider
+how we might best occupy the time. As we had already dug every
+promising spot at Cyrene not occupied by the crops of the Arabs, we
+purposed going to Benghazi to dig in the ancient cemetery there,
+previously burying all the marbles we could not carry with us, to
+protect them from being destroyed by the Bedouins. If the vessel
+came in the following year, they could be exhumed with little
+difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>Since the end of August I had been confined to the tomb, and
+most of the time to bed, by a severe attack of fever, caused, most
+probably, by fatigue and exposure at night during the journey to
+Benghazi in July. With one of our party thus laid up on the “sick
+list,” and with a prospect every day more certain of a further
+residence of eight months in the country, we looked with some
+anxiety for the expected ship. As usual on such occasions, the
+number of false alarms was so great that we at last paid little
+attention to them. Our Maltese servants, quite beside themselves
+with excitement at the chance of soon returning to Malta—their
+“Fiore del mondo,”—stood gazing at the sea from morning to night,
+and raised a shout of joy whenever they detected the slightest
+speck on the distant horizon.</p>
+
+<p>Their hopes were at last realized on the 26th of September, by
+the appearance of a large frigate standing in towards Marsa Sousah,
+which proved to be H.M.S. <em>Melpomene</em>, Captain Ewart, from
+whom we soon after received a note announcing his arrival. As I was
+still unable to leave the tomb, Porcher went down to the ship by
+himself early next morning, to make the necessary arrangements with
+Captain Ewart, and to accompany the working party, while I remained
+to look after the packing and other affairs at Cyrene. Our friend
+Mohammed El Adouly had, unfortunately for us, gone to Benghazi; so
+that we had not the benefit of his assistance, as on the former
+occasion. The chances of difficulties and misunderstandings were,
+moreover, much increased by the presence of a large number of Arabs
+from the southward, who had lately come to water their flocks till
+winter at the springs in the neighbourhood of Cyrene. Having no
+occupation at this season of the year, they wandered about
+perfectly idle, and therefore in readiness for any<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> mischief. Even before the
+arrival of the <em>Melpomene</em>, they had subjected us to
+considerable annoyance, and were becoming daily more and more
+unfriendly in their general demeanour; and there was little doubt
+that the large addition to our numbers brought by the
+<em>Melpomene</em> would proportionately add to their hatred of the
+“dogs of Nazarenes,” as we were not too courteously called. There
+were, consequently, more than the usual difficulties with the
+numerous camel-drivers we required, who adopted a peculiarly
+insolent tone in dealing with us. In the course of the subsequent
+operations, they frequently refused to take any loads but such as
+they themselves selected, and sometimes struck work altogether,
+thereby causing us a vast amount of unnecessary trouble.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the excellent arrangements made by Captain Ewart while
+on the passage from Malta, everything was ready for beginning the
+work immediately after the arrival of the ship. The working party
+had already been told off and thoroughly equipped and organized.
+The shafts of the waggons had been taken off and long capstan bars
+substituted, by which the guiding or steering was greatly
+facilitated—a point of some importance, as it was only by means of
+such powerful levers that the heavy waggons could be guided with
+ease and safety over the rough and stony roads. The drag-ropes,
+too, were fitted with canvas straps to pass over the men’s
+shoulders, by means of which the dragging was done much more easily
+than by hand.</p>
+
+<p>All the plank and other stores required for packing the statues
+were landed immediately after the arrival of the ship, and sent up
+to Cyrene as rapidly as we could get camels to carry them. Ten
+carpenters and a guard of ten marines under the command of
+Lieutenant Saunders, R.M., came up to Cyrene the same day, and the
+work of making cases and packing was begun at once under the
+superintendence of Mr. Dennison. A working party of ninety men,
+fully equipped with tents, water-breakers, provisions, &amp;c., was
+then disembarked under the command of Lieutenant Carter, R.N., ten
+camels with their drivers being told off to attend to their wants.
+The waggons, three in number, were the artillery platform waggons
+of the service, the same as those used by us on the former
+occasion. Each waggon had its own “crew” of thirty men, under the
+immediate command of one of the three midshipmen attached to the
+party,—Messrs. Jackson, Cane, and Wade.</p>
+
+<p>The ship was anchored about two miles to the westward of Marsa
+Sousah, directly opposite our new road over the Augubah, in nearly
+the same position as the <em>Assurance</em> had taken up for the
+embarkation of the statues in June. As communication with the shore
+was very liable to be interrupted by the heavy surf on the beach,
+Captain Ewart caused a depôt of provisions and fresh water to be
+established on land under the protection of a guard. From this
+depôt, which was replenished from time to time as the state of the
+weather permitted, the working party could at all times draw its
+supplies, and the cases of sculpture brought down from Cyrene could
+be safely left in charge of the guard, until a favourable
+opportunity occurred for taking them on board. This arrangement was
+the more necessary as we knew that the transport of the objects too
+heavy to be carried by camels would require three if not four trips
+of the waggons. Moreover, at so late a season of the year, a
+continuance of fine weather could not be reckoned upon, and the
+ship herself might not improbably be obliged by an equinoctial gale
+to put out to sea.</p>
+
+<p>Every precaution being thus taken to insure the success of the
+operations, the working party started from the depôt with the
+waggons on the morning of the 28th. Our new road proved quite
+practicable, and the party reached the summit of the Augubah and
+encamped there the same night. They arrived at Cyrene the following
+day, by which time the carpenters had a sufficient number of
+statues packed to load all the waggons. The 30th was occupied in
+securing the cases on the waggons, and on the 1st of October the
+party started for the shore. The descent of the Augubah was
+accomplished without accident, and the cases were safely deposited
+at the depôt on the evening of the 2nd. Two other trips were
+afterwards made with equal success, although not without serious
+apprehension on our part of a violent interruption by a tribe of
+hostile Bedouins.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span>Ever since the
+arrival of the marines and carpenters at Cyrene, scores of
+“ugly-looking” Arabs kept prowling about our tomb with the evident
+design of picking a quarrel with us. Occasion for doing so was
+likely to occur at any moment, and especially when we absolutely
+refused to comply with some extravagant demands on the part of the
+camel-drivers. An open quarrel, however, was fortunately avoided
+until the first arrival of the large waggon party.</p>
+
+<p>The sailors, who were then encamped on the hill opposite our
+tomb, were in the habit of washing and bathing at the Fountain of
+Apollo, a practice at which the Arabs became greatly enraged. One
+evening, a little before sunset, as we were sitting down to dinner,
+we suddenly heard a few shots fired, and immediately afterwards,
+the loud screeching by which the Arabs were wont to call each other
+to an armed gathering. Numbers soon answered to the cry, and came
+pouring into the Wady from all directions. On inquiring into the
+cause of the disturbance, we learned that some sailors and marines
+had been bathing as usual at the fountain, when a number of Arabs,
+annoyed at what they thought their indecency, began pelting them
+with stones. A marine had thereupon loaded his rifle with blank
+cartridge, and fired in the direction of the Arabs, thinking
+thereby to frighten them away. His foolish act had, as might have
+been expected, a totally different result. In less than an hour,
+the Wady in front of our tomb was swarming with armed men. As we
+had in this instance been the aggressors, we at once sent Amor for
+the sheikhs of the collected force, and explained to them that we
+quite disclaimed the act of the marine, whose rashness, however,
+was somewhat excused by the previous conduct of the Arabs. The
+sheikhs, who seemed peaceably disposed, replied that the whole
+disturbance had been caused by our men occupying the fountain all
+day, and preventing the Arab women from coming to fill their
+waterskins. As there was some truth in this, we promised that in
+future the men should be allowed to use the fountain only at
+particular times; and we requested the sheikhs to come to us, if at
+any time they had cause of complaint, and not to speak to our men,
+who knew nothing of their language. The Arabs, only partly pacified
+by our assurances, remained where they were all night, and spent
+great part of the following morning in firing at marks close to our
+tomb, for the purpose of making an imposing show of their power to
+treat us as they pleased.</p>
+
+<p>This disturbance was hardly settled when a certain Sheikh Said
+’M Rubbut made his appearance at the head of his tribe, and
+demanded a large sum of money, under the pretence of harbour dues,
+or something of the sort. On our refusing to pay it, he went off in
+great wrath, vowing vengeance on our whole party. The following
+day, he returned with a similar demand, but this time for the much
+smaller sum of 200 piastres (18<em>s.</em>). On our again refusing
+to acknowledge his right to any sum, however small, he lowered his
+tone considerably, and said that, having no wish to quarrel with
+us, he would forego his claim, but begged two or three
+bullock-skins which were of little or no value to us. To a request
+in this form we willingly acceded, as we were anxious at all
+hazards to keep the peace until the marbles were safely taken to
+the beach. By this time the waggons were on their way to the depôt
+on the shore, after their second trip to Cyrene.</p>
+
+<p>The day after the departure of the waggon party, Sheikh Said
+again paid a visit to our tomb, and told me that he was not
+satisfied with the skins, and that he would not allow the waggons
+to pass, unless I paid him a large <em>bakshish</em> besides.
+Seeing that his object was simply to levy “black mail,” and that
+yielding in any way to his demands would only encourage him to make
+further exactions, I refused to give him anything, and ordered him
+to leave the tomb. With the threat that none of us should leave the
+country alive, he went away, and encamped in the lower plateau,
+near a steep ravine which the waggons had to cross. He there
+barricaded the road with trunks and branches of trees, and for two
+days prevented any communication between Cyrene and the working
+party or the ship.<a id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5"
+class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Some of our camels on their way from the
+depôt, laden with planks, were seized and<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_81">[81]</span> detained. Our retreat from Cyrene was
+effectually cut off, and we were altogether in rather a helpless
+state.</p>
+
+<p>In this dilemma, I thought of the sheikhs of the Haasa, whom we
+had befriended after the attack of the Castle of Ghegheb, and who
+had then expressed their desire to repay us in any way in their
+power. I accordingly sent for Husseim and Hadji Hassan, the two
+head sheikhs of the tribe, and after reminding them of our
+interference with the Pacha on their behalf, told them that they
+could never have a better opportunity of proving the sincerity of
+their gratitude than now, by ridding us of the presence of Sheikh
+Said and his followers. I also assured them, that as we were living
+in the territory of the Haasa, of which Sheikh Said’s tribe was a
+subdivision, they themselves would be held responsible by the
+Consul for our safety. They at once promised to request Sheikh Said
+to depart peaceably, and if he refused to do so, to drive him away
+by force. With some of their subordinate sheikhs, they immediately
+went to carry their promise into effect, and returned after two or
+three hours with the intelligence that Sheikh Said had gone when
+they ordered him, and that the road was therefore quite clear.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i58"><a href="images/i58.jpg"><img src='images/i58.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 58.—Encampment of the Party from H.M.S.
+“Melpomene” near the head of the Augubah.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although he had thus apparently obeyed the order of the sheikhs,
+he had by no means given up the game. Foiled at Cyrene, he merely
+shifted his ground, and lay in wait for the waggon party in a wood
+at the top of the Augubah, hoping, no doubt, to extract something
+from them by his threats. The waggons soon afterwards came up from
+the shore, and halted for the night. The tents were no sooner
+pitched than Sheikh Said and some of his followers entered the
+camp, and threatened Porcher and the whole party with utter
+destruction if he did not agree to give him a bakshish. Porcher had
+not yet heard of our two days’ siege at Cyrene, but gave him the
+same answer I had done; viz., a point blank refusal. The sheikh
+thereupon left the camp, and collecting all the<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span> men of his tribe, placed them in
+a large open space at the foot of the Cyrene range, while he
+himself came up to our tomb to offer me, as he said, a last chance.
+I told him I had already given him an answer, and that if he wanted
+to attack us we were quite ready to receive him. On his departure,
+I again called upon the head sheikhs for assistance, and they again
+obliged him to move off; so that the waggon party reached Cyrene
+for the third time without an actual encounter.</p>
+
+<p>The friendly interference of the principal sheikhs of the Haasa
+had thus been of great service to us hitherto, by preventing a
+collision which must have led to very serious consequences. Had it
+come to blows or bloodshed, even the Arabs who were most friendly
+to us would have been compelled to take side with their brethren
+against the Christians. With thirteen miles of bad road and close
+cover between Cyrene and the coast, we must have suffered great
+loss in fighting our way to the shore against overwhelming numbers.
+Such a result had fortunately been avoided; but we now began to
+have doubts of the good faith of the friendly sheikhs, and to
+suspect that, after all, they might be in secret league with our
+enemies. We were led to fear that this was the case by the
+pertinacity and confidence shown by Sheikh Said, and by the fact
+that Hussein and Hadji Hassan acted in concert with our old foe
+Sidi Mustapha, who was loud in his denunciation of Sheikh Said’s
+acts. We naturally thought that if the heads of the Haasa and the
+chief of the Zauyah were sincere in their professions of
+friendship, Sheikh Said would not presume to threaten and annoy
+us.</p>
+
+<p>Affairs being in this state, we thought it advisable to apply to
+the Mudir of Ghegheb for protection, although we had little hope of
+his rendering us any really efficient assistance. Our object was
+rather to put ourselves in the right, by being able to say that we
+had appealed to the only representative of the Government in the
+country. I was still too weak to ride as far as Ghegheb, or I
+should have gone to see the Mudir before now; but Porcher went
+immediately after his arrival at Cyrene with the waggons. The Mudir
+himself, he found, was absent, and the Kolaghassi or Major who was
+acting in his place said that all he could do was to send two
+Koralié with letters to Sidi Mustapha and the sheikhs Hussein and
+Hadji Hassan.</p>
+
+<p>Finding that no assistance was to be expected from the Mudir,
+and that we must rely solely on our own resources for protection,
+we were anxious to get everything on board as soon as possible,
+especially as every day’s delay seemed only to add to the
+difficulties of our position. We therefore determined to make the
+third trip of the waggons the final one, although, by doing so, we
+were obliged to leave behind us the large statue of Archippe and
+some of the inscriptions. Future visitors to the ruins of Cyrene
+will probably find the statue where we left it, at the western end
+of our upper range of tombs, and the inscriptions in a subterranean
+chamber almost immediately beneath the same spot.<a id=
+"FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p>
+
+<p>The 10th and 11th were spent in loading the waggons, packing up
+our personal effects, and collecting the necessary number of
+camels. We made our preparations as quietly and secretly as
+possible, in the hope of giving the slip to Sheikh Said and his
+friends, by reaching the shore before he should hear of our
+departure from Cyrene. Meantime, the road to the coast was clear,
+and everything promised a peaceful termination to our long sojourn
+among the Bedouins. On the night of the 11th, however, one of our
+Arab servants brought us word that Sheikh Said, having heard of our
+intended movement, was again in position on the road with a larger
+force than ever, determined to fight us if we did not satisfy his
+demands.</p>
+
+<p>Early next morning, the marines were paraded under arms, and
+told off in two parties to act as advanced and rear guards to the
+main body with the waggons and camels. It was some time, however,
+before everything was ready for a start. Crowds of Arabs collected
+round our tomb, clamouring and struggling with each other for the
+empty bottles and other articles which we were<span class="pagenum"
+id="Page_83">[83]</span> to leave behind. At last the camels were
+loaded, and we were on the point of beginning our march, when,
+somewhat to our astonishment, we saw a number of Arabs coming up
+the Wady, among whom we recognized Sheikh Said and our former
+friends Sheikhs Hussein and Hadji Hassan. It seemed as if our
+suspicions of these Haasa sheikhs were, after all, but too well
+founded, and that they were now openly associated with our enemy,
+in order to share with him the expected booty.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i59">
+<p class="platelabel">Pl. 59.</p>
+<a href="images/i59_large.jpg"><img src='images/i59.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<table class="width-full">
+<tr>
+<td class="ipub tdl">E. A. Porcher, del<sup>t</sup>., T. Picken,
+lith.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdc">London. Published July 1<sup>st</sup>. 1864 by
+Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &amp;c., Gate Street
+Lincoln’s Inn Fields.</td>
+<td class="ipub tdr">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the
+Queen</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="cp1">CENTRAL WADY AND SLOPE OF THE EASTERN HILL OF
+CYRENE</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Such, however, was not the case. Leaving the other Arabs who
+were with them, the two sheikhs came up to our tomb and told us
+that, having accidentally heard that Sheikh Said was again in arms
+against us, they had hurried off during the night to the position
+taken up by him in the lower plateau, and, by threatening himself
+and all his followers with instant death, had compelled him to come
+to make his submission to us. As no blood had actually been shed,
+they had given him their word that we should not injure him. On
+being assured that we would respect the safe-conduct they had
+given, they brought up their prisoner, who forthwith, in the most
+abject terms, expressed sorrow for his past offences, and begged to
+be forgiven. Thus, fortunately, ended an affair which, but for the
+gratitude of the powerful tribe we had formerly befriended, would,
+in all probability, have resulted in a great loss of life.</p>
+
+<p>To insure us from further molestation, Sheikhs Hussein and Hadji
+Hassan accompanied us to the beach, where we induced them with some
+difficulty to intrust themselves to leave <em>terra firma</em>, and
+pay a visit to the ship. When they came on board, Captain Ewart
+made them a liberal and most welcome present of powder, and at
+their own earnest request I gave each of them a certificate of good
+conduct addressed to the English vice-consuls at Benghazi and
+Derna.</p>
+
+<p>The waggon party reached the head of the Augubah the same night,
+and on the following morning descended to the plain, where they
+were met by the ship’s band, who escorted them to the beach. Before
+evening everything was safely embarked.</p>
+
+<p>The narrative of the excavations would be incomplete without
+mentioning a small dressed statue of a girl found near the central
+theatre of Cyrene, by some of the sailors, who spent the two days
+before our departure in digging for “images” on their own account.
+For want of a more appropriate name, her discoverers gave her that
+of the ship: “Melpomene.”</p>
+
+<p>While getting the last of the cases on board, on the afternoon
+of the 13th, we observed a steamer coming along the shore from the
+westward, which was soon made out to be H.M.S. <em>Medina</em>,
+commanded by Captain Spratt, C.B., who was then engaged in testing
+and correcting the charts of the coast between Tripoli and
+Alexandria. He had previously written to inform us of his intended
+visit to Cyrene; but his letter did not reach us until after the
+arrival of the <em>Medina</em> herself. Unfortunately it was now
+too late to think of going, as Sheikh Said and his followers were
+doubtless eager to have revenge for their late humiliation.
+Immediately before coming to Marsa Sousah, the <em>Medina</em> had
+anchored for a few hours at Sousah Hamema, for the purpose of
+taking some observations on shore with the artificial horizon. The
+party that landed for this purpose, having crossed by chance the
+limits of the Zauyah, were indignantly ordered off by the saintly
+Achwani, who would not have hesitated to enforce obedience by
+firing on the intruders.</p>
+
+<p>The last duty we had to perform before our departure was the
+distribution of bakshish among our friends and attendants. Of
+these, Amor Bon Abdi Seyat, who had stood by us well during the
+whole of our residence in the country, had the greatest claim on
+our gratitude. Honesty, in our sense of the word, was a quality of
+which, in common with his countrymen, he could form no conception,
+and to which he, consequently, had no pretension. But he refrained
+from actual theft, and had discernment enough to see that in
+honesty, that is, in <em>limited</em> peculation, lay his best
+policy; inasmuch as the periodical bakshish which he received
+varied inversely as the amount he gained by illicit means. In every
+respect he was probably the best man we could have got in the
+country. Naturally quick-witted, active, and courageous, he had
+acquired considerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span>
+influence over the men of his tribe, which, on more than one
+occasion, he exerted with success in our behalf. As a farewell
+gift, we gave him our two horses and a large supply of powder.</p>
+
+<p>It was not without regret that we finally left our temporary
+home at Cyrene. The beauty of the scenery and the interesting
+nature of our occupations had combined to render our residence in
+the country a most agreeable one. We had occasionally suffered
+considerable annoyance and anxiety; but, on the whole, our
+relations with the Arabs had been much more satisfactory than might
+have been anticipated. Several considerations, however, now induced
+us to return to Malta in the <em>Melpomene</em>. As a ship could
+not approach the coast with safety during winter, we should have
+had to remain at Cyrene at least six or seven months, before
+another vessel could be sent to visit us; and this period we were
+afraid we should not be able to employ to much advantage in the way
+of excavation. Immediately after the first rains, the Arabs begin
+to sow their crops, which, at Cyrene, cover nearly the whole site
+of the ancient city. During the previous winter, we had examined
+nearly every promising spot that was left unoccupied. Very little
+digging, therefore, could be done until the ground was again clear
+after the harvest in May, as the Arabs would on no account allow
+their crops to be interfered with. We should, consequently, have
+been obliged to remain in the country a whole year, for the chance
+of finding more sculptures during the five or six months of the
+following summer. There was no doubt that many statues were still
+to be found; but as we had already excavated all the prominent
+sites in the city, in many of which we discovered nothing, further
+operations must have been carried on almost at random. For these
+and other reasons, we made up our minds to leave Cyrene, and return
+to Malta in the <em>Melpomene</em>.</p>
+
+<p>At daylight on the morning of the 14th we weighed anchor, and
+sailed for Malta. It was well that we had got all the cases of
+sculpture on board the day before; for we had hardly left the coast
+when a breeze sprang up and rapidly freshened to a gale, which
+would have made it quite impossible to communicate with the shore,
+and would have obliged the ship herself to put to sea for safety.
+After a stormy passage of three days, we reached Malta on the 17th,
+just in time to correct a report sent from Benghazi by the new
+submarine telegraph, to the effect that, in an attack made upon us
+by the Arabs of Cyrene, one of us had been killed and the other
+wounded.</p>
+
+<p>At Malta the sculptures were transferred to H.M.S.
+<em>Supply</em>, Master Commander Balliston, in which vessel they
+were soon afterwards safely conveyed to England.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span><a id=
+"c13"></a><span class="letter-spaced01">CONCLUSIO</span>N.</h2>
+
+<p class="dcap">BEFORE taking leave of the subject of the
+Cyrenaica, it will not be out of place to offer a few remarks upon
+the future prospects of this beautiful country.</p>
+
+<p>It may, I think, be safely premised that, so long as it remains
+in the hands of its present rulers and occupants, no great change
+in its condition is likely to take place, either for the better or
+the worse. From what has been already stated in a former chapter,
+it will be seen that the present state of the country, and the
+character and peculiar habits of its inhabitants are, to a great
+extent, mutually dependent on each other. That is to say, the
+physical condition of the country, owing to the absence of rivers
+or any large artificial reservoirs for water, is not adapted to the
+requirements of a settled sedentary population, and therefore tends
+to confirm the Bedouins in their wandering, and consequently wild
+and lawless, habits; while, on the other hand, it is hardly to be
+expected that a race of people like the Arabs would exert
+themselves in achieving public works for the purpose of making the
+country suited for a manner of life which they have been taught
+from infancy to hate and despise. As an illustration of this, I may
+mention that the road which we made from Cyrene to Marsa Sousah,
+instead of being regarded as a benefit to that part of the country,
+was looked upon with considerable suspicion as a means of
+facilitating the movements of troops sent by the Government.</p>
+
+<p>Nor is this indisposition on the part of the inhabitants likely
+to be compensated for by the energy of a government which exists in
+little more than the name. Justice is not administered, crime is
+not punished, and life and property are wholly unprotected. The
+collection of tribute is, in fact, the only function of government
+performed by the representatives of the Sultan.</p>
+
+<p>The expediency of forming a colony of Maltese in the Cyrenaica
+has, we believe, been sometimes contemplated; but it is evident
+that, in such a state of affairs, successful colonization by
+Europeans would be impossible. In the first place, a general system
+of irrigation by means of reservoirs and cisterns for the
+collection of the rains in winter, would have to be created; roads
+and harbours would also be required to make the resources of the
+country available for the purposes of commerce; works which could
+only be carried out under the protection of a powerful government.
+There is little hope of Turkey ever acquiring the enlightened
+energy necessary for such a task, and the example of Algeria as a
+French <em>colony</em> is probably not such as to induce any other
+European nation to attempt it. It is a remarkable fact that a
+region once so prosperous, and even now blessed with a salubrious
+climate, a fertile soil, and an excellent geographical position,
+should have remained for centuries on the very borders of Europe,
+not only undeveloped, but almost unknown. And from the combination
+of causes which we have indicated, it seems not improbable that it
+may remain in the same condition for many years to come.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2 class="large"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_87">[87]</span><span class=
+"letter-spaced01">APPENDICE</span>S.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width4">
+
+<h3 class="nopb"><a id="app1"></a>I.—<span class=
+"letter-spaced01">ON THE SILPHIU</span>M.</h3>
+
+<p class="dcap">IN the foregoing chapters reference has
+occasionally been made to the Silphium of Cyrene, the
+identification of which has given rise to considerable discussion
+among modern travellers and botanists.</p>
+
+<p>Della Cella, Beechey, and Pacho agree in the opinion that the
+Silphium of the Greeks is identical with a plant growing in
+abundance at the present day in the neighbourhood of Cyrene, partly
+from the description of it given by Pliny, and the general
+resemblance of the drawing on the coins of Cyrene.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure id="i60"><a href="images/i60.jpg"><img src='images/i60.jpg'
+alt=''></a>
+<p class="cp2">Plate 60.—Thapsia Garganica.</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Dr. Schroff has lately published an article on the subject,
+which seems to be the most important hitherto written, and having
+gone minutely into the accounts given by Hippocrates and
+Dioscorides of the properties of the ancient Silphium, and the
+experiments made from the plant now growing there, it is quite
+evident that they are not the same.</p>
+
+<p>From the following account it will be seen that the present
+plant, of which a drawing is<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_88">[88]</span> shown in <a href="#i60">Plate 60,</a> is
+proved to be the <i>Thapsia Garganica</i>, and agrees with the
+plant well known to the ancients under the name of <i>Thapsia</i>,
+but has none of the properties of the true Silphium.</p>
+
+<p>It is called <em>Drias</em> by the Arabs, and abounds at Cyrene
+and the immediate vicinity, disappearing altogether about thirty
+miles to the westward of it; and we observed it occasionally as far
+as Derna in the opposite direction. This plant appears above the
+ground in the month of October, when the autumnal rains commence,
+and is in flower in May, when it attains the height of 4 feet on
+the average, occasionally measuring 4¾ feet, and dying down to the
+ground again in July and August.</p>
+
+<p>The following description of the plant has been kindly
+translated by Professor Oliver from the German article of Dr.
+Schroff.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">The question as to the identity or
+otherwise of <i>Thapsia Garganica</i>, now so abundant about the
+site of the ancient Cyrene, as well as elsewhere on Mediterranean
+shores, with the <em>Silphium</em> of the Greeks, has been recently
+very carefully investigated by Dr. C. Schroff.</p>
+
+<p>The results of his inquiry appeared in the “Zeitschrift der K.
+K. Gesellschaft der Aerzte” of Vienna, Part I., 1862.<a id=
+"FNanchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>
+They are briefly these: he finds that the properties, &amp;c., of
+<i>Thapsia Garganica</i> do not accord with those attributed by
+classical writers to their <em>Silphium</em>; on the other hand,
+they do accord with the properties ascribed by Theophrastus,
+Dioscorides, and others to a plant called by them <em>Thapsia</em>.
+Dr. Schroff therefore rejects the prevalent notion that the ancient
+<em>Silphium</em> of Cyrene is represented by <i>Thapsia
+Garganica</i>, now growing wild on its site, and confidently
+identifies the latter with the <em>Thapsia</em> of the Greeks and
+Romans.<a id="FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class=
+"fnanchor">[8]</a> He does not attempt to indicate the present
+representative of the true <em>Silphium</em>.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the properties of <i>Thapsia Garganica</i>, it is
+stated by Von Heinzmann (by whom specimens of the drug—the rind of
+the root—now in use at Tripoli, obtained from <i>T. Garganica</i>,
+were sent to Europe) that the fruit is very poisonous to camels, a
+single fruit (so-called seed) sufficing to kill a large and
+powerful camel. The Arabs in travelling through districts where the
+<i>Thapsia</i> abounds, at the time when the fruit is ripe, are
+accustomed to muzzle their camels to prevent their feeding upon the
+plant. The green herbage of the <i>Thapsia</i>, however, is eaten
+by them without ill effect.</p>
+
+<p>A very high value is ascribed to the rind of the root as an
+application to foul wounds or ulcers, whether of man or beast. A
+portion of the rind is laid upon or into the sore and it heals
+forthwith. M. Heinzmann experimented with the tincture upon bad
+wounds of different kinds with “die wunderbarsten Resultate.” When
+the tincture is applied to the sound skin, it occasions almost
+unendurable itching, and gives rise at length to blisters or
+pustules, without causing much<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_89">[89]</span> inflammation. Neither itching nor burning is
+felt when the drug is applied to a wound. Six to eight grains of
+the powdered rind of the root taken internally are stated to
+occasion the following symptoms: giddiness, buzzing in the ears,
+confusion of ideas, great feeling of weakness, with tendency to
+vomit, and actual vomiting and purging. The most striking symptom,
+however, is a long-continued, heavy perspiration. Experiments
+repeated in Europe lead to the <i>Thapsia Garganica</i> being
+classed as a drastic cathartic, and, to a certain extent, confirm
+its usefulness as an external application.</p>
+
+<p>The properties of the plant <em>Thapsia</em>, described by
+Theophrastus, Dioscorides, and Pliny, agree with those just cited
+as characteristic of <i>Thapsia Garganica</i>. Dr. Schroff says a
+comparison of the description given by the above writers of their
+<em>Thapsia</em> with the character, both as to structure and
+properties, of <i>T. Garganica</i>, leaves no doubt as to their
+identity.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to the ancient <em>Silphium</em>. Our most precise
+information respecting it is derived from the Cyrenian coins and
+the writings of Theophrastus and Dioscorides. It is referred to by
+Pliny (with admixture of error), as well as by many of the more
+ancient classical writers. The fresh root, prepared with vinegar,
+was eaten, and the stem was highly prized as a delicacy.—(See
+<em>Knights</em> of Aristophanes.) It was also used as a spice and
+condiment. Its application in medicine (the inspissated juice) is
+fully detailed by Dioscorides. It was in great repute as an
+antidote to poisons and the bite of venomous reptiles, scorpions,
+mad dogs, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The older Cyrenian coins bear a representation (according to Dr.
+Schroff) of the fruit of the <em>Silphium</em>. It is represented
+as <em>obcordate</em>, with a narrow wing. This does not agree at
+all with the form of the fruit of <i>T. Garganica</i>, nor can the
+account given of the use of the <em>Silphium</em> as a table
+delicacy and condiment be reconciled with the active properties of
+that species.</p>
+
+<p>In conclusion Dr. Schroff says: “If, then, our researches
+establish beyond all doubt that the plant now known as <i>Thapsia
+Garganica</i>, L., and <i>Thapsia Silphium</i>, Viv., is not, as so
+many travellers and botanists have asserted, the original Cyrenaic
+<em>Silphium</em>, on the other hand, the result of this inquiry is
+not purely negative in reference to the Flora of the ancients, for
+we have proved that the plant in question may be certainly
+identified with another plant used in ancient medicine, the
+<em>Thapsia</em> of the Greeks and Romans.”</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">This extract clearly establishes the fact
+that the <em>Drias</em> of the Arabs is the <i>Thapsia
+Garganica</i>. At the time the Romans took possession of the
+country, the Silphium seems to have been grown in large quantities,
+and was considered an excellent medicine, and sold for its weight
+in silver. The medicinal properties of the gum are described as
+having the smell of myrrh, but more mild and agreeable.</p>
+
+<p>It was said by Pliny to have grown not far from the Gardens of
+the Hesperides and the Great Syrtis; but, in his time, it had so
+entirely disappeared that a single plant was sent as a rare and
+valuable gift to the Emperor Nero. This scarcity had been caused by
+the barbaric races that overran the country, as well as by the
+Cyrenians themselves, who aided in its extirpation in order to free
+themselves of the enormous tax which the Romans had laid upon
+it.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width12">
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span><a id=
+"app2"></a>No. II.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE SCULPTURES FOUND AT
+CYRENE.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i61"><span class="sc">Plate</span>
+61.</a>—BACCHUS.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 5 feet 9 inches; found in
+a temple of Bacchus. (See ante, <a href="#Page_40">p. 40.</a>)</em>
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">The</span> god is represented under his
+youthful type, holding a bunch of grapes in his left hand, and with
+his head encircled with a vine-wreath and diadem. The right arm,
+now wanting, appears to have hung down by his side, as a little
+below the hip is a projection for the attachment of the hand. A
+mantle passes round the lower half of his body and over his left
+arm and shoulder. This statue is remarkable for the admirable
+preservation of the face. The form has a certain effeminate beauty,
+though the style is somewhat mannered and meretricious. The drapery
+is carelessly executed, especially at the back. When it was first
+found, red colour was very visible in the eyes and wreath round the
+head.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i62"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 62.</a>—APOLLO
+CITHARŒDUS.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height, inclusive of the plinth,
+7 feet 6 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This statue was found, as has been already stated
+(<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_41">p. 41</a>), in the Temple of
+Apollo, and originally stood on a lofty base within the cella. The
+god is represented in a musing attitude, as if pausing between the
+strains of his music. His left hand, now broken off, must have
+played over the strings of his lyre; his right arm has been raised;
+the right hand, resting on the crown of his head, has held the
+<em>plectrum</em>, with which he is about to strike the lyre. On
+the hair may be seen a projection where this hand has been
+attached. The lyre rests on the trunk of a tree, round which a
+serpent is twined. A bow and quiver hang from the tree. The head of
+the serpent is upturned, as if he were listening to the music of
+the god. Red colour may be seen on the tree and quiver.</p>
+
+<p>This statue is probably a copy from some celebrated original, as
+two other nearly similar figures exist, one in the Capitoline
+Museum at Rome, the other in the Museo Borbonico at Naples.
+(<em>See</em> Clarac, <em>Musée de Sculpture</em>, iii. pl. 479,
+fig. 921<span class="sc2">B</span>; and <em>ibid.</em>, pl. 489,
+fig. 954.)</p>
+
+<p>The countenance has a suave and beautiful expression, and the
+general attitude is very harmoniously composed. The body is finely
+modelled, but the drapery very inferior to the nude part; the lower
+limbs seem rather short and clumsy, but perhaps, if this statue
+were placed on a higher base, this want of proportion would be less
+apparent. This statue when found was broken into 123 pieces, all of
+which have been rejoined since its arrival at the British
+Museum.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i63"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 63.</a>—THE
+EMPEROR HADRIAN (?).</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 6 feet 7 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This Plate represents a male personage clad in a mantle thrown
+over his left shoulder, under which the folds of a <em>chiton</em>
+are seen on the breast; on his feet are sandals; the right arm is
+crossed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> over the
+breast under the mantle, the left hand holds a sprig of laurel; the
+head is bound with a pine wreath, and has been inserted into a
+socket at the base of the neck. This head is evidently a portrait,
+and appears to be intended for the Emperor Hadrian, though the
+likeness is not a very strong one. As, however, the statue was
+found in the Temple of Apollo, close to a base inscribed with a
+dedication to Hadrian (see <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_42">p.
+42</a>), it may be presumed that it represents that emperor. It is
+possible that the head may have been substituted for that which
+originally belonged to this statue, as the general character of the
+drapery would be rather suitable to a poet or a philosopher than to
+a Roman emperor. Both hands have been joined on at the wrist, and
+were found detached. The left hand seems not to be made of the same
+marble as the rest of the statue, and it is very doubtful whether
+it belongs to the figure.</p>
+
+<p>The pine-wreath on the head would indicate a victory either in
+the Great Isthmia, or in some smaller festival bearing the same
+name. There does not, however, seem to be evidence to show the
+connection of the Emperor Hadrian with such contests.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i64"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 64.</a>—HEAD OF
+PALLAS ATHENE.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 1 foot 2 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This head was found near the middle of the <em>Cella</em> in the
+Temple of Apollo, near the preceding statue, supposed to represent
+the Emperor Hadrian.—(See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_42">p.
+42.</a>) It is in unusually fine preservation, and from the purity
+and whiteness of the marble is an attractive object to the
+uncritical eye. It is, however, rather coarse and heavy in
+execution, and belongs, therefore, probably, to the Roman
+period.</p>
+
+<p>The helmet, which is of the kind called Corinthian, has had the
+point of the nasal broken off. In other respects this head is
+uninjured.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>UNKNOWN MALE HEAD WITH INLAID EYES.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Life Size.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>On <a href="#i64">Plate 64</a> is also represented a male head,
+which is especially interesting, as an example of polychrome or
+inlaid sculpture. The crown of the head is cut away, so as to form
+a joint, and it is evident that a helmet or other head-dress has
+been fitted on to it, doubtless, of a different coloured marble.
+The eyes are inserted in hollow sockets. The whites of the eyes,
+formed of marble, still remain in these sockets. The pupils, which
+have, probably, been made of coloured vitreous pastes, have fallen
+out. All round the marble eyes the edge of a thin bronze plate
+intervenes between the eye and the upper and lower eyelids; this
+edge has probably been serrated so as to indicate by its projection
+the upper and lower eyelashes, as is the case with the bronze head,
+<a href="#i66">Plate 66.</a></p>
+
+<p>This head is greatly disfigured by the mutilation of the nose,
+and by the want of the eyes and the part above the forehead. What
+remains is, however, finely modelled, and is, probably, the work of
+a Greek artist of a good period.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span><a href=
+"#i65"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 65.</a>—HEAD OF CNÆUS
+CORNELIUS LENTULUS MARCELLINUS,<br>
+PROPRÆTOR OF CYRENE.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Life Size.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This head was found in the Temple of Apollo, in the western half
+of the <em>Cella</em>. With it was found a marble base, on which
+was graven the inscription <a href="#Page_109">No. 1,</a> recording
+the dedication of a statue, by the people of Cyrene, to Cnæus
+Lentulus Marcellinus, styled here Proprætor, Patron, and Saviour of
+Cyrene. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_42">p. 42.</a>)</p>
+
+<p>With this base was found a square pedestal, 10 inches broad and
+5 feet high, which fitted into a square socket in the base, and
+which had at the top a deep socket into which the head fitted. This
+pedestal, which establishes the connection between the base and the
+head, was unfortunately left behind, on the final embarkation of
+the marbles, on account of the insufficient means of transport at
+the command of the expedition. It has been already noticed that the
+back of this head is cut flat, as if to enable it to be placed like
+a pilaster.</p>
+
+<p>As a specimen of provincial sculpture in the Roman period, this
+head is very well worthy of study. It seems singular that a work of
+art possessing so much merit should have been united to its
+pedestal in so rude and unsightly a manner. It is, however,
+possible that the head originally belonged to a statue, and that,
+after this statue was broken by an earthquake or other accident,
+the head was remounted in this clumsy fashion.</p>
+
+<p>The Cnæus Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus whose portrait we have
+here was the son of P. Cornelius Lentulus Marcellinus, of the
+illustrious family of Marcelli, and a man of some note in the
+latter years of the Republic. While yet a young man he supported
+the cause of the Sicilians against Verres, B.C. 70. He held the
+office of Prætor, B.C. 59, and presided over the trial of C.
+Antonius, the colleague of Cicero. The following year he went to
+Syria, and administered that province for two years. He was Consul
+B.C. 56, and took a prominent part in resisting the factious
+violence of Clodius; and Cicero, whose cause he greatly favoured,
+declared him to be one of the best Consuls he had ever known. We
+hear very little of him after the expiration of his Consulship, and
+the period of his death is wholly unknown.</p>
+
+<p>Ancient writers are not agreed as to the precise date when
+Cyrene was first made a Roman province. The conflicting authorities
+are examined by Thrige (Res Cyren. pp. 274-277), who adopts for
+this event the date B.C. 75. Borghesi, who reconsiders the question
+very fully in his Œuvres Complètes, Paris, 1864, II. pp. 396-407,
+prefers the later date, B.C. 65, in which he is followed by Falbe
+and Lindberg (Numismatique de l’Ancienne Afrique, I. p. 7).
+According to these two latter authorities, Lollius, whose name
+appears on the coins of Cyrene, was its first Proprætor; but it is
+not unlikely that he was preceded by Cn. Lentulus Marcellinus,
+whether we take the earlier or the later of the above-mentioned
+dates for the establishment of the Roman province there. He may be
+the same as a Cnæus Lentulus whose name appears on a Roman family
+coin (Cohen, Description Générale, p. 104, No. 25) as Quæstor, and
+who was probably Quæstor in Spain with Metellus, about B.C.
+79-75.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span><a href=
+"#i66"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 66.</a>—BRONZE ICONIC
+HEAD.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Life Size.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This head is in very fine condition, and a most interesting
+example of ancient portraiture in bronze.</p>
+
+<p>The person whom it represents has not yet been identified; the
+type of the features seems rather African than Greek or Roman, and
+it is possible, therefore, that this head may represent some king
+of Numidia or Mauritania. The eyes have been inlaid in vitreous
+pastes, portions of which still remain in the sockets. The
+eyelashes are indicated by notched lines. The under lip is formed
+of a separate piece of bronze, the junction of which may be traced
+along the edge of the lip.</p>
+
+<p>It is probable that the lips were covered with a thin plate of
+silver or some artificial substance which served to represent their
+difference of colour. The hair and beard are finished with great
+care and refinement of treatment. Throughout there is a scrupulous
+adherence to nature, and this head may be considered as an
+interesting example of that realistic school of portraiture which
+seems to have originated in the time of Lysippus.</p>
+
+<p>It was found in the Temple of Apollo, on the original floor of
+the eastern part of the <em>cella</em>, 11 feet beneath a mosaic
+pavement superadded in Roman times. Near it were some small
+fragments of bronze horses, very much injured, as if by fire, some
+bits of gold leaf, and several terra-cotta lamps. (See
+<em>ante</em>, pp. <a href="#Page_42">42,</a> <a href=
+"#Page_43">43.</a>)</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i67"><span class="sc">Plate</span>
+67.</a>—APHRODITE.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 2 feet 4 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This statuette is broken off below the knees. The figure is
+draped in a tunic, reaching probably to the feet, and girt at the
+waist; a <em>peplos</em> passes round the right hip. The arms are
+wanting. The head is bound with a diadem.</p>
+
+<p>This figure has been so mutilated that it is difficult to judge
+of it as a composition. The marble is of an exquisite quality, and
+is wrought with a refined skill, which shows that this statuette
+belongs to the best period of Greek art. The countenance is one of
+great beauty. The long eyes and general type of the features are
+characteristic of Aphrodite.</p>
+
+<p>Though Praxiteles is said to have first made nude statues of
+this goddess, draped representations of her are comparatively rare,
+except those executed in the archaic period.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>CYRENE.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 1 foot 3 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>On this <a href="#i67">Plate</a> is also represented a female
+torso, attired in a tunic reaching only to the knees. The head,
+arms, and legs of this figure are wanting. Above the girdle the
+fashion of the tunic is peculiar. The sides are left open, so as to
+expose the breasts, between which the folds are gathered together
+in a broad band. On this band and on the folds near it traces of
+red colour may yet be seen.</p>
+
+<p>The composition of the drapery in this statuette is remarkable
+for severe and simple beauty.<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_95">[95]</span> It is probably executed by a Greek sculptor
+of the best period. The type and costume are those of a young girl
+trained to the chase or athletic exercises. These characteristics
+make it probable that in this statuette we have the nymph Cyrene
+herself, of whom there are two other representations in this
+collection of sculptures. (See <a href="#i76">Pl. 76,</a> and No.
+6, <em>post.</em>) Both these statuettes were found in a large
+temple near the Stadium, with some other fragments of sculpture of
+a very fine character. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_75">p.
+75.</a>)</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i68"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 68.</a>—ICONIC
+FEMALE FIGURE.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 6 feet 6½ inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This figure is clad in a tunic reaching to the feet, over which
+is an ample mantle or <em>peplos</em> wound round the body. Her
+head is bound with a diadem, and covered at the back with a veil.
+From the character of the features, it may be inferred that this
+statue is a portrait rather than the representation of any ideal
+personage. If such is the case, it is probably the portrait of some
+queen, perhaps of the family of the Egyptian Ptolemies, as several
+of the queens of this dynasty are represented on their coins
+wearing the diadem and veil. Though this figure has rather an
+imposing effect at a distance, near inspection shows that it is
+very coarsely executed. The proportions are very clumsy. It was
+found in some ruins on the north side of the Temple of Apollo.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i69"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 69.</a>—BUST OF
+THE EMPEROR ANTONINUS PIUS.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 2 feet 4½ inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This bust is well sculptured and in very fine condition. The
+features are intact. The Emperor is represented clad in the
+<em>paludamentum</em>, or military cloak, which is fastened by a
+circular <em>fibula</em> on the right shoulder over a tunic and
+cuirass. This bust was found on the site of a building marked
+“Palace” on the <a href="#i40">Plan,</a> but which, from the number
+of Imperial busts discovered in it, was probably an Augusteum. (See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_76">p. 76.</a>)</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i70"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 70.</a>—BUST OF
+THE EMPEROR MARCUS AURELIUS.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 2 feet 4¼ inches,
+inclusive of plinth.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This bust is in very fine condition, having sustained no injury
+except the fracture of the neck. The Emperor wears on his shoulders
+the <em>paludamentum</em>, fastened on the right shoulder by a
+<em>fibula</em>. The hair is skilfully disposed in clustering
+masses, and the general treatment of the head is simple and
+dignified, though as a work of art this bust is inferior to the
+Antoninus already described. It was found in the building marked
+“Palace” on the <a href="#i40">Plan,</a> which, as has been already
+remarked, was, probably, an Augusteum.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i71"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 71.</a>—APHRODITE
+EUPLOIA.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 1 foot 9 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>A small statuette representing Venus in the act of adjusting the
+sandal of her left foot. She leans forward standing on her right
+leg, and resting her left thigh against a pillar. The<span class=
+"pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> toes of her raised foot, now
+broken away, have been supported by a dolphin. Her left arm, which
+is also wanting, is drawn back, and probably rested on the pillar;
+as the head is broken away at the base of the neck, it is uncertain
+in which direction it turned. Drapery hangs from the column,
+against which a rudder is leaning. Many varieties and repetitions
+of this figure are extant, in marble and bronze, among which the
+following may be cited:—</p>
+
+<p>1. A small bronze figure in the British Museum. (Millingen, in
+the Transactions of the Royal Society of Literature, 2nd series, i.
+p. 62.)</p>
+
+<p>2. A small bronze figure found at Herculaneum. (Antichità di
+Ercol., vi. 14; Müller, Denkmäler d.a. Kunst, ii. Taf. xxxvi., fig.
+283.)</p>
+
+<p>3. A small bronze torso in the British Museum. (Clarac, Musée de
+Sculpture, i. pl. 628, fig. 1354.)</p>
+
+<p>4. A small bronze figure. (Galeotti, Mus. Odeschalc., ii. pl.
+35.)</p>
+
+<p>5. A small marble torso in the British Museum. (Museum Marbles,
+x. pl. 20, p. 43.)</p>
+
+<p>6. A similar figure occurs on the bronze coins of Aphrodisias
+during the Roman period. (Mionnet, Recueil, iii. p. 323, No.
+109.)</p>
+
+<p>Several small torsos in marble, which represent the same
+subject, have been found in Crete, Rhodes, Cos, and Calymnos. It is
+evident, front the number of repetitions of this figure, that they
+are all derived from some celebrated original. The name of
+Aphrodite Euploia has been given to this figure because, in two
+instances, the statuette now under consideration and the bronze
+figure in the British Museum, published by Millingen (No. 1,
+<em>supra</em>), the goddess leans on a rudder. The veil held over
+her head in the latter bronze seems to represent the sail filled by
+a favourable wind. These nautical emblems would accord well with
+the epithet Euploia, “the giver of a favourable voyage,” which was
+given to Aphrodite. In this character she was an object of special
+worship at Cnidus. The number of small statuettes with this type
+which have been found in cities of the Archipelago suggests the
+notion that they may have been dedicated by seafaring men after a
+voyage.</p>
+
+<p>This statuette was found with several other statues of Venus in
+a small temple, marked on the <a href="#i40">Plan</a> “Temple of
+Venus.” (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_77">p. 77.</a>) The
+composition is very graceful, but the forms rather coarse and
+clumsy. It is, probably, of the Roman period.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i72"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 72.</a>—GROUP OF
+APHRODITE AND EROS.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 3 feet 2½ inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>The hands and head of the Venus being wanting, the motive of the
+figure is uncertain, but it is probable that the goddess was
+represented engaged in her toilette: her drapery is gathered round
+her lower limbs; on her feet are sandals. The Cupid bestrides a
+dolphin, in which attitude he is frequently represented at the side
+of statues of Venus. In Clarac’s Musée de Sculpture are two groups
+of Aphrodite and Eros, in which the drapery is similarly
+disposed,—Pl. 607, fig. 1339, and Pl. 615, fig. 1366. This group,
+though rather coarse in execution, is copied from a good original.
+It was found in the Temple of Venus.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span><a href=
+"#i73"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 73.</a>—UNKNOWN FEMALE FIGURE
+OF THE ROMAN PERIOD.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 5 feet 9½ inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This figure is clad in a tunic reaching to the feet, and a
+mantle, the end of which she is casting over her left shoulder, and
+in the folds of which her left hand is partially muffled. Her hair
+is plaited and wound round her head, after a fashion prevalent in
+the time of the Empress Sabina, the period to which this figure may
+therefore be assigned with probability. It is evidently a portrait,
+but has not as yet been identified. The countenance is very
+expressive, and the whole figure, though not finely executed, is
+interesting from the simplicity of the conception and the
+impression it conveys of a faithful rendering from nature. The
+right forearm, which was a separate piece of marble, has been
+broken away. It was found in the Temple of Venus. (See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_77">p. 77.</a>)</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i74"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 74.</a>—ICONIC
+FEMALE BUST.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 1 foot 10½ inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This bust is remarkable for the singular headdress, composed of
+plaits coiled round in a conical mass.</p>
+
+<p>This headdress seems a caricature of that which prevailed in the
+time of the Empress Faustina the Elder; and as the bust is
+evidently a portrait, it may represent some lady of the period of
+that Empress. The sculpture is very inferior to that of the busts
+of Antoninus and Aurelius already described. This bust, with
+another nearly identical, was found on the site of the supposed
+“Temple of Venus.” (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_77">p.
+77.</a>)</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><a href="#i75"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 75.</a>—HEAD OF
+PERSEUS.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Height 4 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This head has wings, which are characteristic either of Mercury
+or of Perseus. The countenance, however, has an intense expression,
+which seems more suitable to the hero than the god. This head is
+probably broken off from a statuette representing Perseus holding
+in his hand the head of the slain Medusa. A very similar head
+occurs among the reliefs which ornament the cuirass of a Roman
+emperor on the torso described <em>post</em>, No. 107, <a href=
+"#Page_104">p. 104.</a></p>
+
+<p>The features are very forcibly modelled. This head is probably a
+work of the Macedonian period. It was found in the Temple of Venus.
+(See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_77">p. 77.</a>)</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span><a href=
+"#i76"><span class="sc">Plate</span> 76.</a>—CYRENE CROWNED BY
+LIBYA.</h4>
+
+<p class="center space-below1"><em>Group in Relief, 3 feet 4 inches
+by 2 feet 3 inches.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>This relief represents the nymph Cyrene in the act of strangling
+a lion, while, to commemorate this triumph, a crown is held over
+her head by Libya. Below is the inscription engraved <a href=
+"#i82">Pl. 82,</a> No. 19, which may be thus translated:—</p>
+
+<p>“Here over the architrave, Carpos, making this dedication in
+token of great hospitality, has placed the lion-slaying Cyrene,
+whom Libya, having the glory of three continents, herself
+crowns.”</p>
+
+<p>In this group the nymph Cyrene is represented in attire very
+like that of Diana Venatrix. She wears a succinct <em>chiton</em>
+reaching to the knees, over which is a mantle, and buskins; her
+hair is drawn back from her face.</p>
+
+<p>Libya wears a talaric <em>chiton</em> girt at the waist, and a
+mantle fastened at the breast and falling down behind; her hair,
+bound with a diadem, is arranged over her forehead in long regular
+curls, and falls down her neck; at her side is an animal
+<em>couchant</em>, of which the head is broken off, and which is
+probably a gazelle.</p>
+
+<p>According to one legend, Cyrene was the daughter of Hypseus,
+king of the Lapithæ, in Thessaly, whose flocks she guarded against
+wild beasts. Apollo seeing her slay a lion in the valley of Pelion,
+became enamoured of her, and carried her off to the parts of Libya
+which afterwards bore her name. According to another legend,
+Eurypylus, king of Libya, having promised a portion of his kingdom
+to the person who would slay a lion then dreaded for his ravages,
+Cyrene performed this exploit, and received in reward the promised
+district. It is probably in connection with this latter legend that
+Libya is introduced crowning Cyrene in this relief. Aristæus, the
+mythic founder of Cyrene according to some, was the son of Apollo
+and Cyrene. The composition of this relief suggests the idea that
+it may have been a metope. Hence the words ὑπὲρ μελάθροιο in the
+inscription have been translated “above the architrave.” It was
+found in the Temple of Venus.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width12">
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i61">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i61_large.jpg"><img src='images/i61.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">BACCHUS,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 61.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i62">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i62_large.jpg"><img src='images/i62.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">APOLLO CITHARŒDES,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 62.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i63">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i63_large.jpg"><img src='images/i63.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">THE EMPEROR HADRIAN?<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 63.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1f">
+<figure id="i64">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i64_large.jpg"><img src='images/i64.jpg' alt=''
+class="iw1"></a>
+<p class="cp1">MINERVA & A MALE HEAD,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 64.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i65">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i65_large.jpg"><img src='images/i65.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">CNÆUS CORNELIUS LENTULUS MARCELLINUS,<br>
+<span class="less">(PROPRÆTOR OF CYRENE.)<br>
+N<sup>o</sup>. 65.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i66">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i66_large.jpg"><img src='images/i66.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">BRONZE ICONIC HEAD,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 66.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i67">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i67_large.jpg"><img src='images/i67.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">APHRODITE & FEMALE TORSO,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 67.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i68">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i68_large.jpg"><img src='images/i68.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">ICONIC FEMALE STATUE,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 68.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i69">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i69_large.jpg"><img src='images/i69.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">THE EMPEROR ANTONINUS PIUS,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 69.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i70">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i70_large.jpg"><img src='images/i70.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">BUST OF A ROMAN EMPEROR,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 70.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i71">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i71_large.jpg"><img src='images/i71.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">APHRODITE EUPLOIA,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 71.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i72">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i72_large.jpg"><img src='images/i72.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">APHRODITE AND EROS,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 72.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i73">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i73_large.jpg"><img src='images/i73.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">ICONIC FEMALE FIGURE,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 73.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i74">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i74_large.jpg"><img src='images/i74.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">FEMALE BUST OF ROMAN PERIOD,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 74.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw4">
+<figure id="i75">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i75_large.jpg"><img src='images/i75.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">HEAD OF PERSEUS,<br>
+<span class="less">N<sup>o</sup>. 75.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i76">
+<p class="platelabel">
+</p>
+<a href="images/i76_large.jpg"><img src='images/i76.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="cp1">THE NYMPH CYRENE OVERCOMING A LION<br>
+<span class="less">& BEING CROWNED BY LYBYA,<br>
+N<sup>o</sup>. 76.</span></p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span><a id=
+"app3"></a>No. III.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">LIST OF SCULPTURES FOUND ON VARIOUS SITES AT
+CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="less"><span class="sc">Note</span>.—<em>The Nos.
+subjoined to each object are those now affixed to them in the
+British Museum.</em></p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>TEMPLE OF APOLLO.</h4>
+
+<p>1. Apollo Citharœdus.—<a href="#i62">Pl. 62.</a></p>
+
+<p>2. The Emperor Hadrian.—<a href="#i63">Pl. 63.</a></p>
+
+<p>3. Bronze iconic head.—<a href="#i66">Pl. 66.</a></p>
+
+<p>4. Head of Pallas Athene.—<a href="#i64">Pl. 64.</a></p>
+
+<p>5. Head of Cnæus Lentulus Marcellinus.—<a href="#i65">Pl.
+65.</a></p>
+
+<p>6. Group of the nymph Cyrene overcoming a lion by strangling
+him. The nymph is attired like Diana for the chase. Her hair is
+bound with a diadem, and gathered into a club behind. Height, 2 ft.
+10½ in. (3).</p>
+
+<p>7. Jupiter Ammon; round his lower limbs a mantle; right hand
+broken away, left hand placed behind his back. On the face are
+traces of red colour.—Representations of Jupiter Ammon are rare in
+sculpture. The head of this deity is one of the principal types on
+the coins of Cyrene, and other towns in the Cyrenaica, and occurs
+on the cuirass of the Roman emperor. (See <em>post</em>, No. 107.)
+Height, 2 ft. 10 in. (7).</p>
+
+<p>8. Youthful male figure, wearing a mantle, gathered round his
+waist and leaving the right side of his chest bare; his head bound
+with a twisted diadem. His left hand is placed behind his back; his
+right hand has been extended in front of him. The head, which is
+inserted in a socket, and may not belong to this figure, bears some
+resemblance to that of Alexander the Great. The right arm is
+wanting. At his feet, on the left, is a conical object, possibly
+intended to represent the Delphic <em>omphalos</em>: unfinished at
+the back. Height, 3 ft. 9 in. (26).</p>
+
+<p>9. A beardless figure, wearing a <em>chiton</em>, a mantle, and
+sandals; his head laurelled; his right hand held across his breast;
+in his left hand a laurel-branch; at left side, some object,
+perhaps a case for rolls of MS. This figure looks up, and may
+represent either a priest or a poet taking part in the worship of
+the temple. Style very late and coarse. Height, 3 ft. (4).</p>
+
+<p>10. A figure precisely similar. Height, 2 ft. 10½ in. (5).</p>
+
+<p>11. Female figure, wearing talaric <em>chiton</em> and
+<em>diploidion</em>; over forehead, <em>sphendone</em>: head looks
+up. Arms wanting from the elbow; head and lower arms have been
+inserted in sockets. This figure may possibly be a Juno. Art late
+and bad. Height, 4 ft. 5 in. (6).</p>
+
+<p>12. Female figure, probably Hygieia, clad in a talaric
+<em>chiton</em> and <em>diploidion</em>, over which is a
+<em>peplos</em> wound round the body. Round right arm a serpent
+twisted; the right hand wanting; the action of the left arm
+suggests that she has held a <em>patera</em> to feed the snake.
+Over the forehead is a radiated <em>sphendone</em>, in the centre
+of which a flower. Unfinished at the back. The head has been fitted
+to a socket on the neck, but it is doubtful whether that now
+adjusted belong to this figure. Art very late and coarse. Height, 3
+ft. 8 in. (25).</p>
+
+<p>13. Artemis moving rapidly forward: she wears a talaric
+<em>chiton</em>, a <em>peplos</em>, and sandals; her
+hair<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> is gathered up
+over her forehead like that of Apollo; her arms, which are wanting,
+and her feet, have been fitted on at a joint; her neck is let into
+a socket. Height, 3 ft. 3½ in. (8).</p>
+
+<p>14. Female figure, wearing low <em>sphendone</em>, talaric
+<em>chiton</em>, girt at the waist, <em>peplos</em>, and shoes.
+Height, 2 ft. 8 in. (52).</p>
+
+<p>15. Small winged figure in relief, broken off at hips, which
+probably represents Somnus reclining. Height, 8 in. (107).</p>
+
+<p>16. Torso of small figure of Eros (?). Height, 5½ in. (109).</p>
+
+<p>17. Right leg, broken off halfway up the thigh, from statue of
+youthful Bacchus. At side, trunk of tree, encircled with
+vine-bearing branches. Height, 1 ft. 6 in. (103).</p>
+
+<p>18. Right leg from a colossal statue. This leg is broken off
+above the ancle, and terminates just above the knee, in a joint
+which has probably been concealed by drapery falling over it; it
+may, therefore, have belonged to an acrolithic statue. It is in a
+very fine style, and may have been executed in the Macedonian
+period. Height, 2 ft. 1 in. (15).</p>
+
+<p>19. Archaic head of Apollo. The back hair long, and wound round
+the crown in a braid; in front short curls. The chin broken away.
+This head is copied from the same original as the Apollo of the
+Phygalian room. (<em>Marbles in British Museum</em>, vol. xi. Pl.
+32.) In the Theseium at Athens is a similar figure. Height, 11 in.
+(53).</p>
+
+<p>20. Youthful heroic head, looking to the right; the top of the
+head cut off flat. Roman art. Height, 10 in. (55).</p>
+
+<p>21. Female head bound with diadem; broken away at back of head.
+Blue marble. Height, 5¼ in. (64).</p>
+
+<p>22. Head of Ariadne (?); hair bound with ivy; crown cut off.
+Height, 6½ in. (127).</p>
+
+<p>23. Head of Diana; hair gathered into a high topknot, and bound
+with diadem; eyes have been made of vitreous paste, which remains
+in one eye. Height, 7 in. (128).</p>
+
+<p>24. Head of Diana; hair gathered into a high topknot, and bound
+with diadem. Height, 5½ in. (129).</p>
+
+<p>25. Head of Diana; hair gathered into a high topknot, and bound
+with diadem. Late art. Height, 7 in. (131).</p>
+
+<p>26. Youthful heroic head (Theseus?); hair bound with twisted
+diadem; back of head broken off flat. A fine type. Height, 5¼ in.
+(124).</p>
+
+<p>27. Two fragments of a female head bound with a diadem. Blue
+marble; diadem painted black; eyes and hair red. Injured by fire.
+Height, 8½ in. (145).</p>
+
+<p>28. Left side of a female head wearing a <em>stephane</em> and
+veil. Height, 5½ in. (143).</p>
+
+<p>29. Female head, bound with low <em>stephane</em>. Much defaced.
+Height, 6 in. (137).</p>
+
+<p>30. Female head looking up; hair slightly waved, a single
+ringlet falls on each side of neck; back of head and neck cut flat.
+Style mean and late. Height, 1 ft. 2½ in. (86).</p>
+
+<p>31. Panther or lioness sitting on its haunches; hind-quarter
+broken away. Very rude. Height, 7½ in. (122).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>RUINS NORTH OF TEMPLE OF APOLLO.</h4>
+
+<p>32. Female figure.—<a href="#i68">Pl. 68.</a></p>
+
+<p>33. Diana Venatrix, wearing a succinct <em>chiton</em>, a
+<em>chlamys</em> hanging over left arm, and <em>endromides</em>; at
+her side a hound; her left hand is advanced, and probably held a
+bow; a quiver rests against her right leg. Art very late and bad.
+Height, 3 ft. 11 in. (159).</p>
+
+<p>34. Male figure, clad in a <em>chiton</em> and mantle; broken
+away below the knees; hands and nose wanting; his right arm,
+muffled in his mantle, is passed across his breast. The countenance
+is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span> that of an aged
+person. The head being bound with a fillet, perhaps this figure may
+represent a poet. He is beardless. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href=
+"#Page_75">p. 75.</a>) Present height, 5 ft. 2 in. (37).</p>
+
+<p>35. Seated female figure, clad in a talaric <em>chiton</em>, and
+a <em>peplos</em> covering the back of her head; her feet and
+forearms are wanting; she wears a girdle tied in a singular knot
+under her bosom, with ornamented ends hanging down; her
+<em>peplos</em> has a deep fringe at the edge. The edges of her
+girdle are painted in vermilion, which is still very fresh, and the
+same colour appears at the joints where the forearms are broken
+off. She is seated on an oblong seat with a cushion; her feet have
+rested on a footstool. This figure was found close to another
+female seated figure of colossal size, but in other respects
+resembling it very closely, which was inscribed with the name of
+Archippe, daughter of Ptolemaios, a priestess. It is therefore
+probable that the smaller seated figure may also be a priestess.
+(See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_75">p. 75,</a> where it is
+erroneously stated that Archippe is one of the Ptolemaic dynasty.)
+This statue is unfinished at the back, and the crown of the head
+has been cut away. It probably stood in a niche. Height, 4 ft. 2
+in. (36).</p>
+
+<p>36. Youthful Bacchus crowned with vine-leaves. The feet remain,
+but the legs are wanting from the knees. The right forearm and the
+nose are broken away; the left elbow rests on the trunk of a tree,
+round which is twined a vine. The right hand has hung down by the
+side, and has held some object, to support which two square
+projections are left on right hip and thigh. The proportions of
+this figure are good, and it is fairly modelled. Height, 3 ft. 2
+in. (27).</p>
+
+<p>37. Female figure, clad in a <em>chiton</em> and
+<em>peplos</em>; in right hand <em>oinochoe</em>. Head broken off
+at neck, which is let into a socket. Poor art. Height, 2 ft. 6 in.
+(41).</p>
+
+<p>38. Legs from a male figure, life size, wearing hunting-boots;
+at the side a <em>nebris</em>, or fawn-skin, flung over the trunk
+of a tree. Height, 2 ft. 1 in. (150).</p>
+
+<p>39. Head of Venus (?) bound with diadem; hair in deep waves, cut
+away at the back. Broken off, probably, from a statue. Height, 1
+ft. 1½ in. (61).</p>
+
+<p>40. Female head; hair gathered into a knot on the crown;
+probably meant for Artemis. Art late and bad. Height, 6 in.
+(132).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>SMALL BUILDING TO THE WEST OF TEMPLE OF APOLLO.</h4>
+
+<p>41. Torso of seated female figure, wearing <em>peplos</em> and
+talaric <em>chiton</em> bound with girdle. Height, 1 ft. 4½ in.
+(93).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TEMPLE OF APOLLO.</h4>
+
+<p>42. Female head, cut off flat above the forehead, to receive the
+hair, which must have been sculptured on a different piece of
+marble. Height, 11½ in. (88).</p>
+
+<p>43. Youthful male (?) head; traces of red colour in the eyes.
+The top of the head cut off flat to receive the hair, which must
+have been fitted on, as in the case of the head last described.
+Height, 8 in. (89).</p>
+
+<p>44. Female head; hair waved. Style late and bad. Height, 8 in.
+(90).</p>
+
+<p>45. Head of Bacchus wearing a diadem and a crown of vine-leaves,
+with bunches of grapes hanging down on each side of the cheek.
+Height, 7½ in. (92).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span>TEMPLE OF
+VENUS.</h4>
+
+<p>46. Female bust.—<a href="#i74">Pl. 74.</a></p>
+
+<p>47. Statue, probably of an empress.—<a href="#i73">Pl.
+73.</a></p>
+
+<p>48. Group of nymph Cyrene crowned by Libya.—<a href="#i76">Pl.
+76.</a></p>
+
+<p>49. Female bust.—The head-dress is similar to that of Faustina
+the Elder, whom this bust may therefore represent, though the
+features have little likeness to that empress. The shoulders are
+draped. The sculpture is mean, and deficient in style. The end of
+the nose is slightly injured, but in other respects this head is in
+good condition. Height, 1 ft. 11 in. (117).</p>
+
+<p>50. Aphrodite Euploia.—<a href="#i71">Pl. 71.</a></p>
+
+<p>51. Group of Venus, with Cupid on a dolphin.—<a href="#i72">Pl.
+72.</a></p>
+
+<p>52. Similar group.—The Venus wants arms and head. Her drapery
+falls over a <em>stelé</em> on left, in front of which is the
+Cupid. Sculpture late and coarse. Height, 1 ft. 1½ in. (75).</p>
+
+<p>53. Fragment from similar group. Eros on dolphin, holding up
+part of the drapery with right hand; at his left hand part of left
+leg of Venus. Height, 8½ in. (71).</p>
+
+<p>54. Fragment from similar group. No remains of the Venus.
+Height, 7 in. (72).</p>
+
+<p>55. Venus; lower half draped; at left side dolphin. Head and
+right arm wanting. Height, 11 in. (66).</p>
+
+<p>56. Draped statuette of Venus, from waist downwards. This
+fragment appears to be Greek marble, and the sculpture is of a fine
+period. Height, 1 ft. 2½ in. (22).</p>
+
+<p>57. Torso of nude Venus. Headless; right leg broken off halfway
+up thigh, left leg below knee; right arm broken off above wrist,
+left below shoulder; on each arm, armlet. Right arm advanced, as if
+to cover pubes. Fair Roman sculpture. Height, 1 ft. 2 in.
+(104).</p>
+
+<p>58. Head of Venus bound with <em>opisthosphendone</em>. Height,
+6 in. (139).</p>
+
+<p>59. Upper part of reclining figure of Somnus, in relief; in
+right hand two poppy-heads. Left hand supports head. Length, 6½ in.
+(74).</p>
+
+<p>60. Dolphin from a group, placed head downwards; a female hand
+rests on his tail. Height, 1 ft. 1 in. (153).</p>
+
+<p>61. Torso of Eros, with ringlets falling on either side of neck.
+Sculpture of a good period. Height, 6 in. (105).</p>
+
+<p>62. Youthful male head, in conical cap, with flowing hair,—Atys
+(?). Height, 9½ in. (59).</p>
+
+<p>63. Torso from knees to neck of statuette of Diana Polymammia.
+Wants arms; round neck two archaic bracelets. Height, 6 in.
+(20).</p>
+
+<p>64. Torso of triple Hekate. Heads broken away; at the feet of
+one of the figures, a hound looking up. All these figures have
+their arms hanging down. One of them holds in her right hand an
+<em>oinochoe</em>; the others hold in the right hand some uncertain
+object. Height, 7½ in. (73).</p>
+
+<p>65. Torso of female statuette, wearing short <em>chiton</em> and
+nebris. Artemis (?). Fair sculpture. Height, 1 ft. 1½ in.
+(111).</p>
+
+<p>66. Within a fold of pendent drapery, perhaps broken off from a
+statue, a female term, clad in a panther’s skin, and placed on a
+base. Artemis (?). Broken off at neck. Height, 6 in. (154).</p>
+
+<p>67. Demeter Dadophoros. Rudely sculptured in stone of the
+country. She wears a talaric <em>chiton</em> and a <em>peplos</em>
+thrown over the head; in her right hand she holds ears of corn, in
+her left a torch. Height, 1 ft. 11 in. (50).</p>
+
+<p>68. Seated male figure, Jupiter (?), holding in right hand some
+twisted object, perhaps a distaff; lower half draped. Sculptured in
+freestone. Height, 1 ft. 8 in. (97).</p>
+
+<p>69. Isis; bust in alabaster. Broken away below breasts. The bust
+clad in a <em>chiton</em> and fringed <em>peplos</em>, which is
+fastened by the <em>nodus Isiacus</em>. On the crown of the head is
+a hole for the attachment<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_103">[103]</span> of some ornament; the hair bound with a
+<em>sphendone</em>, and falling on the neck in long ringlets; at
+the back of the head a cluster either of curls or of fruit. Height,
+11 in. (83).</p>
+
+<p>70. Isis, clad in a talaric <em>chiton</em> and a mantle, which
+is fastened on the breast in the <em>nodus Isiacus</em>. The ends
+of a fringed veil hang down on her shoulders; wants head. Fair
+sculpture. Height, 1 ft. 9 in. (84).</p>
+
+<p>71. Lower part of seated male statuette, of which the left leg
+and thigh, part of the right thigh, and the base of the lyre alone
+remain. At left side, gryphon. The proportions seem rather those of
+Hercules than of Apollo; but as the sculpture is of a late period,
+this deviation from the usual type may be only the result of
+ignorance in the artist. Height, 7 in. (101).</p>
+
+<p>72. Relief representing the oracular shrine of Apollo. On right,
+Apollo seated, with right foot on <em>omphalos</em>, the lower part
+of his body draped; by his side a tripod. On left, gryphon seated,
+and bearded ithyphallic term, probably of Dionysos. On the plinth,
+the inscription No. 34. Sculpture very rude and in bad condition.
+Height, 10 in. by 8½ in. (77).</p>
+
+<p>73. Pilaster in form of Pan: on his head a bracket. Round the
+body a mantle, in which his right hand and arm are muffled; in left
+hand, syrinx. The bracket is ornamented with palm-branches. Red
+colour is quite distinct on the drapery and bracket. Height, 3 ft.
+6 in. (28).</p>
+
+<p>74. Aristæus (?) Round the lower half of his body a mantle,
+falling over his left shoulder, his right hand on his hip; under
+left arm a staff, round which a snake is coiled. His hair is long;
+his head bound with a diadem, above which has been some kind of
+crown or upright head-dress; the crown of the head has been worked
+flat; his left hand, which has rested on his staff, is wanting. At
+the side of left foot, a conical object, which may be either a rude
+representation of the <em>omphalos</em>, or a mere support. In this
+figure, the features and attributes resemble those of Apollo, but
+the general type is rather heroic than divine. It may, therefore,
+be considered with probability a statue of Aristæus, the mythic
+founder of Cyrene, who, as the son of Apollo by the nymph Cyrene,
+was said to resemble him in features. Height, 4 ft. 6 in.
+(158).</p>
+
+<p>75. Head of Athene in Corinthian helmet. Well preserved. Height,
+10 in. (60).</p>
+
+<p>76. Head of bearded Bacchus, from term. The hair falls in long
+tresses, and is clustered behind each temple in the archaic
+fashion. On the crown of the head a hole for the insertion of an
+ornament. Height, 8½ in. (81).</p>
+
+<p>77. Torso of youthful satyr, naked; head, arms, and both legs
+wanting. Well sculptured, in Greek marble. Height, 8 in. (82).</p>
+
+<p>78. Seated female figure, wearing a <em>chiton</em> girt at the
+waist, over which is a <em>peplos</em>; on each side of the chair,
+a <em>sphinx</em>. Head, both hands, and head of sphinx on right
+wanting. Height, 11½ in. (76).</p>
+
+<p>79. Youthful male figure, wearing helmet, <em>chiton exomis</em>
+girt up above the knee and fastened over left shoulder;
+shoulder-belt and high boots,—<em>endromides</em>, as if attired
+for the chase. Both arms wanting; the back is unfinished, as if
+this statue had stood in a niche. The right arm has been raised and
+the head turned that way. At right side, trunk of tree. Sculpture
+very rude and coarse. Height, 6 ft. 4 in. (68).</p>
+
+<p>80. Similar figure. Wants head; sculpture very rude and coarse.
+Height, 4 ft. 11 in. (149).</p>
+
+<p>81. Fragment, probably of a group of a hunter and goat, of which
+all that remains is the goat standing on his hind legs, the hand
+which holds it, and one leg of the man, wearing a hunting-boot.
+Sculpture coarse and late. Height, 1 ft. ½ in. (116).</p>
+
+<p>82. Fragment of relief; legs clad in <em>endromides</em>; from
+standing male figure, broken off at knees. Height, 10½ in.
+(99).</p>
+
+<p>83. Draped term. Wanting head; the left hand placed across the
+breast, under the drapery, in an attitude similar to that of a
+female term in the Græco-Roman gallery at the British Museum,
+thought to be the Venus Architis. (See <em>Museum Marbles</em>,
+vol. ii. Pl. 37.) Height, 1 ft. 4½ in. (161).</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span>84. Torso of
+male figure, wearing cuirass and <em>chlamys</em> girt by a belt.
+Broken off at knees and neck; much worn. Height, 10½ in. (79).</p>
+
+<p>85. Female figure, clad in talaric <em>chiton</em> and
+<em>diploidion</em> fastened on right shoulder. Wants head and
+arms. Height, 1 ft. 10 in. (120).</p>
+
+<p>86. Youthful male torso; a <em>peplos</em> wound round his waist
+and over left forearm; right arm advanced across body. Height, 1
+ft. (106).</p>
+
+<p>87. Fragment of relief. Female figure seated, clad in a talaric
+<em>chiton</em> and <em>peplos</em>. This is probably a fragment of
+a votive tablet, as the figure seems looking round to the right.
+Height, 8½ in. by 4 in. (96).</p>
+
+<p>88. Part of votive tablet in relief; a male and a female figure,
+standing side by side. The male figure wears a mantle round the
+lower part of his body; the female, a talaric <em>chiton</em>.
+Heads wanting. Height, 1 ft. by 10½ in. (78).</p>
+
+<p>89. Female head, with conical head-dress; similar to that given
+<a href="#i74">Pl. 74.</a>—The apex of the cone is pierced as if
+for suspension. It is possible, therefore, that this head was used
+as a weight, as the bronze weights of Roman steelyards were
+sometimes fashioned in the form of heads. This head, like that
+engraved Pl. 74, is evidently a portrait. Height, 11 in. (40).</p>
+
+<p>90. Female head, bound with a <em>sphendone</em> and wreath of
+ears of corn. Height, 6 in. (140).</p>
+
+<p>91. Female head; hair tied in a knot over the crown; face in bad
+condition. Height, 4 in. (130).</p>
+
+<p>92. Female head, bound with <em>stephane</em>. Height, 5½ in.
+(133).</p>
+
+<p>93. Heroic (?) head, bound with diadem; hair unfinished. Height,
+4 in. (135).</p>
+
+<p>94. Youthful heroic head, looking to right; hair in short curls.
+Height, 10 in. (56).</p>
+
+<p>95. Head of boy; at back of head, drapery. Height, 9 in.
+(57).</p>
+
+<p>96. Aged male head; portrait. Broken off at neck; nose slightly
+injured. Height, 7 in. (58).</p>
+
+<p>97. Youthful male head, in conical cap. Atys (?). Hair long.
+Height, 9½ in. (59).</p>
+
+<p>98. Female head, bound with diadem; the crown cut off. Traces of
+red colour in the hair. Height, 6 in. (144).</p>
+
+<p>99. Vine branch round trunk from statue. Height, 6 in.
+(123).</p>
+
+<p>100. Fragment of group representing lion on back of bull. Rude
+and late. Height, 8 in. (112).</p>
+
+<p>101. Head of bull. Rude. Height, 5 in. (113).</p>
+
+<p>102. Legs of standing figure, clad in talaric <em>chiton</em>
+and sandals; has been coloured red. Height, 9 in. (100).</p>
+
+<p>103. Dog standing on hind legs, from group. Height, 9½ in.
+(121).</p>
+
+<p>104. Head of Venus.—Hair covered with coif and bound with
+diadem. Badly preserved. Height, 4¼ in. (141).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>AUGUSTEUM.</h4>
+
+<p>105. Bust of Antoninus Pius.—<a href="#i69">Pl. 69.</a></p>
+
+<p>106. Bust of Marcus Aurelius.—<a href="#i70">Pl. 70.</a></p>
+
+<p>107. Head of Lucius Verus, broken at the neck.—Nose broken off;
+sculpture good, but condition indifferent. Height, 1 ft. (16).</p>
+
+<p>108. Torso of a Roman emperor in a cuirass.—This is the torso
+which was seen by Beechey lying on the ground, and which he
+supposes to have belonged to the statue of a Ptolemy. The building
+near which it was found (marked “Palace” on the <a href=
+"#i40">plan</a> of Cyrene,—see <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_76">p.
+76</a>) was, probably, an Augusteum, or temple dedicated to one or
+more Roman emperors, as several imperial<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_105">[105]</span> busts and statues were discovered here.
+This cuirass is very richly ornamented with reliefs. On the
+breastplate is a female figure, draped to the feet, representing
+Rome. On either side a Victory flies towards her to crown her; the
+Victory on the right carries a cornucopia and a sash, the one on
+the left a trumpet. The feet of Rome rest on the back of the wolf
+suckling the twins Romulus and Remus, whose figures have been
+broken away. On the lower part of the cuirass are, in the centre,
+the head of Jupiter Ammon, and on either side a winged youthful
+head, probably Perseus, between which and the head of Ammon is, on
+either side, an eagle with spreading wings. Under the cuirass is a
+jerkin, on which are two helmets and two swords in sheaths,
+arranged alternately with the reliefs already described. On either
+flank of the cuirass is an elephant’s head. This torso evidently
+belongs to the figure of a Roman emperor. As the reliefs are finely
+executed, it is probably a work of the Augustan age. Height, 4 ft.
+6 in. (35).</p>
+
+<p>109. A female figure, clad in a talaric <em>chiton</em> girt at
+the waist and looped on the sleeves, over which falls a
+<em>peplos</em>, gathered over left arm; on the feet, shoes. The
+head and forearms wanting. Art coarse and late. Height, 5 ft. 9½
+in. (33).</p>
+
+<p>110. Bust, perhaps intended to represent the Empress Faustina
+the Younger, as the hair is waved and gathered up behind like hers.
+The nose is broken away, which makes it very difficult to identify
+the person represented. The shoulders are covered with a
+<em>peplos</em>, under which is a tunic. Fair Roman art. Height, 1
+ft. 10 in. (18).</p>
+
+<p>111. A block tapering upwards, which has perhaps been fitted
+into a niche. On one face is represented in low relief a youthful
+male figure wearing the Phrygian cap (Atys); his body is naked: on
+either side is a sword pointed downwards. Two holes are drilled in
+the plane of the relief, one on each side of the figure, apparently
+for the attachment of some ornament. Height, 8 in. (102).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>LARGE TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM. <span class="less">(See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_71">p. 71.</a>)</span></h4>
+
+<p>112. Part of a male head, rather larger than life; much injured
+by fire; the nose is destroyed, and the head broken in two pieces.
+This head is finely executed; the lips are painted red, the beard
+black. Height, 1 ft. 2½ in. (162).</p>
+
+<p>113. Lower half of seated female figure, wearing a talaric
+<em>chiton</em> and <em>peplos</em>. Demeter (?). Coarsely
+sculptured in stone of the country. Height, 6 in. (98).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>SMALL TEMPLE NEAR THE STADIUM. <span class="less">(See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_75">p. 75.</a>)</span></h4>
+
+<p>114. Female torso, perhaps the nymph Cyrene.—<a href="#i67">Pl.
+67.</a></p>
+
+<p>115. Aphrodite.—<a href="#i67">Pl. 67.</a></p>
+
+<p>116. Fragment of face from colossal head; coarsely sculptured in
+blue marble. The nose, right cheek, and part of left eye, have been
+broken away; in the hair are traces of red colour. Height, 1 ft. 6
+in. (54).</p>
+
+<p>117. Fragment of a group representing a bull attacked by a lion.
+The bull is crouching; of the lion, who has sprung on him from
+behind, the fore paws only remain; the head of the bull is wanting.
+Height, 5¼ in. (115).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4><span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span>TEMPLE OF
+BACCHUS.</h4>
+
+<p>118. Statue of Bacchus.—<a href="#i61">Pl. 61.</a></p>
+
+<p>119. Panther, half couching; head to left; left paw raised;
+round neck wreath of ivy; right leg and lower jaw broken away. In
+the stone of the country. Height, 1 ft. 11 in. (156).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>FROM NEAR COLONNADE WEST OF TEMPLE OF BACCHUS.</h4>
+
+<p>120. Female figure, draped in talaric <em>chiton</em> and
+<em>diploidion</em>, over which is a <em>peplos</em> wound round
+the body and left arm. The right hand rests on the hip; the head
+and left hand are wanting. The drapery is well composed, and from
+the goodness of the sculpture, this statue is, probably, of the
+Augustan age, and may represent some member of the imperial family.
+Height, 5 ft. 7 in. (39).</p>
+
+<p>121. Pallas Athene, clad in a talaric <em>chiton</em>, over
+which a <em>peplos</em> is wound round the body. The ægis is shown
+on the bosom, apparently attached to the edge of the
+<em>peplos</em>, where it is doubled back between the breasts. The
+head and forearms are wanting. The drapery of this figure is well
+composed; the execution probably Roman. Height, 4 ft. 9½ in.
+(31).</p>
+
+<p>122. Female figure, wearing a talaric <em>chiton</em> and a
+<em>peplos</em> drawn over the back of her head. The hair is waved
+in front, and bound with a <em>stephane</em>? Underneath the veil
+the hair is plaited, and twisted round the head, forming a sort of
+crown at the back. Red colour is very distinct on the
+<em>chiton</em>, over the left thigh. This figure is evidently a
+portrait, perhaps of a priestess. The execution is late and bad.
+The head-dress seems to be that of the time of Faustina the Elder.
+Height, 3 ft. 11 in. (24).</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<h4>SCULPTURES OF WHICH THE PLACE OF DISCOVERY HAS NOT BEEN
+NOTED.</h4>
+
+<p>123. Torso of male figure wearing a <em>chiton</em> girt at the
+waist, over which is a <em>chlamys</em> fastened on the breast and
+falling over the left arm and side; on the neck traces of red
+colour. The drapery is well composed and delicately sculptured.
+This torso belongs to the finest period of Greek art. Head, right
+arm, and shoulder, left hand and legs, wanting. Height, 12 in.
+(163).</p>
+
+<p>124. Naked male torso; the head, right leg and thigh, left leg,
+left arm, and nearly all the right arm, wanting. The figure is
+youthful, the right shoulder and arm advanced, as if he was bending
+a bow; at back of right shoulder a deep circular hole, and on the
+same shoulder a depression, showing that a quiver has been attached
+behind. The type of this figure suggests an Eros; but as there are
+no wings, it is probably an Apollo bending his bow. The marble has
+been much injured by fire; but the sculpture is superior to that of
+most of the Cyrene sculptures. Height, 1 ft. 1 in. (118).</p>
+
+<p>125. Group of Aphrodite and Eros. The goddess wears a
+<em>peplos</em>, which falls from her left shoulder, covering the
+left arm and side, and is wound round the right leg and thigh,
+partially concealing the left thigh; the left arm is bent, and near
+the shoulder is a projection where the hand has probably been
+attached; the action of the right arm, now wanting, cannot be
+ascertained; the left knee is bent; the head is wanting. At her
+right side has stood an Eros, of whom all that remains is the right
+leg and left foot. The Aphrodite is fairly modelled. This group
+probably came from the Temple of Venus. (See <em>ante</em>, No.
+51.) Height, 1 ft. 10½ in. (69).</p>
+
+<p>126. Relief. Lower half of Aphrodite, holding a slight fold of
+drapery across the hips; at her<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_107">[107]</span> left side a dolphin, head downwards.
+Sculpture very late and coarse, in stone of the country. Probably
+from Temple of Venus, like No. 69. Height, 7½ in. (70).</p>
+
+<p>127. Aristæus (?) Round the body a mantle which leaves the right
+arm and side bare to the waist, and is gathered up under left arm,
+being supported by the end of a long knotted staff on which this
+figure is leaning, and round which a serpent is twisted; at left
+side the <em>omphalos</em> of Apollo: the head and left hand are
+wanting. The attitude, arrangement of the drapery, and staff with
+serpent, suggest an Æsculapius; but the form is too youthful, and
+the <em>omphalos</em> connects the figure with Apollo. The name
+Aristæus seems, therefore, a probable attribution, as in the case
+of Nos. 158 and 65. Sculpture late and bad. Height, 2 ft. (85).</p>
+
+<p>128. Male head, bearded; the nose wanting; probably a Roman
+emperor. It bears some resemblance to Pertinax. Art late and
+coarse. Height, 1 ft. ⁵⁄₁₀ in. (9).</p>
+
+<p>129. Female figure seated in a chair, clad in a talaric
+<em>chiton</em>, girt at the waist, and a <em>peplos</em> thrown
+over her lower limbs; her feet on a footstool; right arm thrown
+back over rail of chair, left arm bent; head, part of left foot,
+and both hands, wanting. Composition good. Height, 11½ in.
+(94).</p>
+
+<p>130. Dionysos; in his right hand, now broken away, he has held
+an <em>amphora</em>; by his left foot is a jar; his hair is bound
+with ivy; he wears a mantle which leaves the right shoulder and
+chest, as far as the waist, bare. Sculpture very coarse and late,
+in stone of the country. Height, 1 ft. 3½ in. (80).</p>
+
+<p>131. Head of Ariadne (?) bound with an ivy wreath, and a diadem
+over the forehead; the hair hangs down the neck; the teeth are
+shown as the lips were smiling; broken off at neck. Fair sculpture.
+This head seems too feminine in type for Bacchus, and may therefore
+be called with probability Ariadne (<em>cf.</em> No. 127). Height,
+8½ in. (125).</p>
+
+<p>132. Cybele seated in a chair, clad in a talaric <em>chiton</em>
+and <em>peplos</em>; in right hand <em>phiale</em>, in lap a lion;
+on either side of chair, lion seated on his haunches. Height, 11½
+in. (44).</p>
+
+<p>133. Hermaphroditos; the body draped from the feet to below the
+hips; the left hand holds up drapery on the thigh; head and both
+arms wanting; hair has flowed down the back; the ends of a diadem
+hang down on each shoulder. Rudely sculptured. Height, 3 ft. 3½ in.
+(45).</p>
+
+<p>134. Male head wearing pointed helmet, which appears to be
+covered with linen; the hair in thick and wavy masses over the
+forehead; the lower jaw broken away; the front teeth of the upper
+jaw are seen. Perhaps this head represents Atys; broken off at neck
+from statuette. Height, 4¼ in. (142).</p>
+
+<p>135. Part of draped female statuette: with her right hand she is
+throwing a mantle over her shoulder, advancing left leg at the same
+time; head, left arm from shoulder, and both feet, wanting. Height,
+1 ft. 8 in. (16).</p>
+
+<p>136. Female bust, shoulders draped; hair waved and falling down
+on either side neck; inscribed on base with the name Nemesis,
+daughter of Orion, and the date 16. (See Inscription No. 35.)
+Obtained from the Arabs. Height, 9½ in. (91).</p>
+
+<p>137. Female torso, wearing <em>chiton</em> and <em>peplos</em>;
+head, legs, right forearm, and left hand, wanting: the left hand
+has held a cornucopia. This figure may therefore represent the
+goddess Fortune. Height, 7¼ in. (152).</p>
+
+<p>138. Fragment from high relief, probably votive. Upper portion
+of male and female figure bearing offerings, probably to a
+divinity; the male figure stoops forward, holding in right hand
+some object, perhaps a flower; he is naked and bearded; the female
+figure who follows him holds up in right hand a fruit, perhaps a
+pomegranate; she wears a <em>chiton</em> and <em>peplos</em>; her
+hair is gathered into a knot behind. Obtained from the Arabs.
+Height, 6 in. by 10 in. (95).</p>
+
+<p>139. Male figure, right hand on hip; a mantle is wound round
+left shoulder and over right hip; head, right arm from shoulder to
+wrist, and left hand, wanting. Height, 9½ in. (63).</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span>140. Male
+figure, wearing a mantle, which passes over left arm and across the
+chest, being gathered up under the right arm. This figure stands on
+the left leg, the right knee being bent; the left arm is placed
+behind the back. From the attitude, and arrangement of the drapery,
+it is probable that the right side leant on a staff, as in No. 158.
+In that case, we may suppose this figure to be Aristæus. (See
+<em>ante</em>, No. 85.) The head and nearly all the right arm are
+wanting. Height, 1 ft. 2 in. (65).</p>
+
+<p>141. Torso of female figure, wearing talaric <em>chiton</em>,
+girt at the waist, and <em>peplos</em> passing across the body and
+gathered over left arm; long hair falls over the shoulders behind.
+Coarsely sculptured in stone of the country. Height, 10 in.
+(108).</p>
+
+<p>142. Female head, crowned with turreted <em>stephanos</em>, in
+front of which is a circular flower; hair in short curls. Broken
+off from statuette at neck. Height, 4½ in. (134).</p>
+
+<p>143. Female head; hair gathered into a knot behind, and drawn
+back from the face; over the forehead a diadem; on the right-hand
+side of the head a projection, perhaps representing a mass of hair
+fastened over the diadem. Height, 4½ in. (138).</p>
+
+<p>144. Upper portion of youthful male head; hair growing away from
+the face; broken off at the eyes; much damaged by fire; unfinished
+at the back. Probably from an heroic figure. Height, 3½ in.
+(147).</p>
+
+<p>145. Iconic female bust; the hair drawn back from the face and
+gathered into a knot at the back of the head; a ringlet falls down
+each side of neck; shoulders draped. Sculpture late and bad.
+Height, 11 in. (148).</p>
+
+<p>146. Lioness seated on hind legs. Very coarse and late. Height,
+1 ft. 2 in. (155).</p>
+
+<p>147. Bull’s head broken off at neck. Rudely sculptured in stone
+of the country. Height, 8¼ in. (114).</p>
+
+<p>148. Relief, representing a votive ear. Coarse and late
+sculpture. Length, 10 in. by 6¾ in. (21).</p>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span><a id=
+"app4"></a>No. IV.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">INSCRIPTIONS DISCOVERED OR FOUND AT CYRENE.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor spaced2 width6">
+
+<p><span class="sc">Most</span> of the inscriptions which have been
+discovered at Cyrene are of the Roman period. In the following
+series those which are certainly of a date antecedent to the Roman
+annexation of Cyrene are indicated as belonging to “a good period.”
+In most of these inscriptions the Doric dialect is used, and
+appears to have prevailed at Cyrene till the Roman period, when the
+κοινή was gradually introduced.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 1.—<a href="#i77">Pl.
+77.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Γ]νάϊον Κορνήλον Λέντολον</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ποπλίω υἱὸν Μαρκελλῖνον, πρεσ-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">βευτὰν ἀντιστράταγον, τὸν</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">πάτρωνα καὶ σωτῆρα, Κυραναῖοι.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A dedication by the people of Cyrene to Cnæus Cornelius Lentulus
+Marcellinus, son of Publius, here styled Ambassador, Proprætor,
+Patron, and Saviour. This inscription is engraved on a marble base
+found in the temple of Apollo, together with a pedestal, and a head
+representing the person to whom the dedication is made. (See
+<em>ante</em>, p. <a href="#Page_42">42</a> and <a href=
+"#Page_83">93.</a>) In the British Museum.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 2.</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">. . . . . . . . Ἱπποκλεῦς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀγασικλῆς Φιλοκλεῦς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀπόλλωνι δεκάταν.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A dedication of a tenth to Apollo, by Agasikles, son of
+Philokles, and some one, son of Hippokles. On a slab of marble
+found in some ruins to the north of the temple of Apollo. The upper
+part of this slab has been broken away. The letters are of a good
+period.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 3.</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Πολιάνθης Ἀνάξιος</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">τὸμ πατέρα Ἄναξιν</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ξευξιμάχω τῷ Ἀπόλλωνι</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">δεκάταν ἀνέθηκε.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A dedication of a statue of Anaxis, son of Xeuximachos, by his
+son Polianthes, as a tenth to Apollo. On a slab of marble found on
+the site of the temple of Apollo, before excavations were commenced
+there. The letters are of a good period. Published, Böckh, Corpus
+Inscriptionum, III. 5133, but incorrectly. See <em>ibid.</em> p.
+1240.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 4.</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Τείσων Ἰάσονος</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a marble base found in some ruins on the north of the temple
+of Apollo. The letters are of the best period of Greek art.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_110">[110]</span>No. 5.</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ατη . . . . . . . .</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">το] ὺς ἑαυτοῦ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀπόλλωνι.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a small slab of marble, 1 foot 7 inches by 6 inches by 4
+inches, found under the mosaic pavement in the temple of Apollo. It
+is evidently part of a dedication to Apollo. In the British
+Museum.</p>
+
+<table id="t110">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad2 sect05bot">No. 6.—Pl. <a href="#i78">78,</a>
+<a href="#i79">79.</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>λ]οχαγοὶ τεθ[ρίππ]ων</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Μναστοκλῆς Βαθυκλεῦς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Πίθακος Ἀριστωνύμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀρισταγόρας Φιλοκώμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(5)</td>
+<td>Ἀριστοφάνης Κλευγένευς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Δαμασίστρατος Καλλίππω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀριστόπολις Εὐρυπτολέμω.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="overline">λο</span>χαγοὶ μονίππων</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Αριστοκλῆς Στεφάνω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(10)</td>
+<td>Υξαν (<em>sic</em>) Εὐπτολέμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Στράτων Κάρνιος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Πρᾶξις θευχρήστω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Πρατομήδης Φιλίππω.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="overline">Τρ</span>ιακατιάρχαι</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(15)</td>
+<td>Πολυκλῆς Μελανίππω τῶ Ἀριστάνδρω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀριστοφάνης Παρα[ι]βάτα</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Καλλίμαχος Ἀνν[ικ]έριος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Βαθυκλῆς Νικοστράτω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἰάσων Δαιμένευς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(20)</td>
+<td>Πρῶρος Κύκνω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Θαλίαρχος Εὐρυπτολέμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Κλέων Χάρωνος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Λύσις Ἐπικλεῦς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Φίλων Ἀννικέριος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(25)</td>
+<td>Ἡρίλοχος Ἐ[πι]βάτα</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Καλλίστρατος Χριστωνύμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Νίκανδρος Ἀλεσάνδρω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Χάρων Ἰάσονος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Νικόδαμος Θα . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(30)</td>
+<td>Ὀνυμοκλῆς Πολυκλεῦς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἱππόδαμος Φιλο[δάμ]ω.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="overline">λο</span>χαγοὶ πεζῶν</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Πολυάρατος Παρατ . . ος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Φιλοκλῆς Θεν . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(35)</td>
+<td>Ἀντίπατρος Πολ . . . . . . ος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Πασίας Ἱπποδ[άμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Χαιρεσίλας Ἀν[αξ]αγόρας</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ψάφων Ἀγλωμάχω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Εὐκλῆς Θευχρήστω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(40)</td>
+<td>Σίφυρος Πιθάκω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Φίλων Θευχρήστω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Τιμῶχος Πολυτίμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Περίανδρος Θρασυλλίωνος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Θεύδωρος Καλλιμάχω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_111">[111]</span>(45)</td>
+<td>Φρασσάμενος Ἀριστοτέλε[υς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἄναξις Δαμώνακτος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Πράταρχος Ὀνυμάρχω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Τιμόλας Πιθάκω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Θεύμανδρος Λυσίππω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(50)</td>
+<td>Δαϊλέων Θευχρήστω.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td><span class="overline">λο</span>χαγοὶ πελταστᾶν συμμ . . .
+.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>τοῖς τριακατίοις</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀνδροκλῆς Κα[λλιμ]άχω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀριστομένης Α . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(55)</td>
+<td>Πρῶρος Σωσία . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀριστοφ[ῶν . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Τελεσα . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ευκ . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>On a marble block, 4 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 1 inch by 1 foot,
+found in the Pronaos of the large temple near the Stadium. (See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_71">p. 71.</a>) This inscription
+gives a list of λοχαγοί, captains, of charioteers, τέθριπποι; of
+cavalry, μόνιπποι; of πεζοί, infantry; of πελτασταί, or light-armed
+infantry; and τριακατίαρχαι, or commanders of τριακάδες, which
+latter appear to have been divisions of the Ephebi in a tribe. L.
+51, συμμ. This word appears to govern τοῖς τριακατίοις. After the
+second Μ has been Ν (see the <a href="#i79">fac-simile</a>). For
+τριακάτιοι see Ahrens, Dial. Dor. p. 280; Müller, Dor. II. p. 304,
+ed. Germ. The letters are of a good period.</p>
+
+<table class="padded2" id="t111">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect05bot">No. 7.—<a href="#i79">Pl.
+79.</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Μελά]νιππος Λυσισβάτω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Πολύαρχος Παυσανία</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . Δα]μοκρίτω</td>
+<td>Χάρων Φαυστίω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . Μελανίππω</td>
+<td>Ξεῦξις Αἰταχίννω (<em>sic</em>)</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(5)</td>
+<td>. . . . Ἐρυσίππω</td>
+<td>Καλλίστρατος Νικαίω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . αχος Ἀρτύλα</td>
+<td>Ἑλικὰν Λεντίχω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . ατης Ὑπερόχω</td>
+<td>Λύκος Εὐρυμάχω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . ρχος Ποδώκευς</td>
+<td>Νίκιππος Εὐφρονίω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . καρτης Θράσωνο[ς</td>
+<td>Ἀρίστων Λύκων [ος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(10)</td>
+<td>. . . . ος Φράσωνος</td>
+<td>Φιλόξηνος Μελανίππω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . νιππος Ἁγήμονος</td>
+<td>Τελέσαρχος Κρησίλα</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . Θάλωνος</td>
+<td>Ἀντίμαχος Φιλοκώμω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . αν Πρώρω</td>
+<td>Ἀντίφιλος Αὔσαν [ος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . λας Εὐκλείδα</td>
+<td>Ἀλεξίβιος Σμυρναίω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(15)</td>
+<td>. . αμος Μνάσιος</td>
+<td>Ἀμμώνιος Ξήνιος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . της Ἀκέσωνος</td>
+<td>Ἐπήρατος Πολυδώρω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀριστ]οτέλης Πράτιος</td>
+<td>Ἄλεξις Λύγαντος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . αρχος Παυσανία</td>
+<td>Ἀρίστ[α]ρχος Θράσυος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . οίδας Λυσάνορος</td>
+<td>Ἀνάξανδρος Σχίδα</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(20)</td>
+<td>. . . Ἀριστοβώλω</td>
+<td>Βάραιβις Μοιρισθένευς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . ενης Χαιριείδευς</td>
+<td>Ἐξακέστας Ἀριστίππω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . . Πείσιος</td>
+<td>Ἀλεξίμαχος Ἄλκιος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . ος Νέωνος</td>
+<td>Προκλῆς Ἰάσονος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . . . άμιος</td>
+<td>Εὐρυφῶν Ἀρίστιος.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . . . λύκω</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>On a marble slab, 16 inches by 15 inches by 3 inches, found in
+the <em>Pronaos</em> of the large temple near the Stadium. (See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_71">p. 71.</a>) This inscription
+gives a list of names, probably <em>Ephebi</em>. (Compare No. 6,
+<em>ante</em>.) L. 10, col. 2, φιλόξηνος, <em>Doricè</em> for
+φιλόξενος. In L. 18, col. 2, ΑΡΙΣΤΡΟΧΣ is by mistake written for
+ΑΡΙΣΤΑΡΧΟΣ. The letters are of a good period. In the British
+Museum.</p>
+
+<table id="t112a">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc sect05bot"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_112">[112]</span>No. 8.—<a href="#i80">Pl. 80.</a></td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc sect05bot">Νο. 9.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>[Ὑπὲρ τῆς τοῦ Αὐτο-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>κας . . . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>κράτορος Τρα-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>χεριων . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>ϊανοῦ Γερ]μ[α-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>μοιηα . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>νικοῦ] Δακικο[ῦ</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>τῇ (?) ἐκ το[ῦ. . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(5)</td>
+<td>νίκης] καὶ δια-</td>
+<td class="pad2 pad-right05">(5)</td>
+<td>νος ετο . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>μο]νῆς καὶ τοῦ</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>καὶ αὐ . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>σύμ] παντος [αὐ-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>νε . . . . . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>τοῦ] οἴκου καὶ</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . . . . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>τῆς ἱερᾶς συν-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(10)</td>
+<td>κλ]ήτου καὶ δήμ-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>ου Ῥωμαίων</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀντωνία Μεγώ</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Μ. Ἀντωνίο[υ ἱερατ-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>εύ]σαντος [τοῦ δεῖνα</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(15)</td>
+<td>κ]αὶ . . . . . . . .</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>νίου Σω . . . . . .</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>καὶ Ἡγισαν . . . .</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>τοῦ Βωλακλέος Ἱ-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>έρεια Ἀρτέμιδος</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(20)</td>
+<td>ἀριστιει τὰς τὴν</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>πόλιν καὶ τὴν χώρ-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>αν κα]τοικούσας παρ-</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>[θένους . . . . . . . . . .</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>On two fragments of a narrow slab of marble found in ruins to
+the north of the temple of Apollo. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href=
+"#Page_75">p. 75.</a>) No. 8 measures 1 foot 10 inches by 9½
+inches; No. 9, 11 inches by 7½ inches. The first part of this
+inscription is probably a dedication in honour of the Emperor
+Trajan, identified here by the epithet ΔΑΚΙΚΟ[Υ. In the latter
+lines a priestess of Artemis is mentioned, who promises to give a
+breakfast, ἀριστιει, to all the virgins dwelling in the city and
+territory of Cyrene. The name Μεγώ, l. 12, occurs in a list of
+priestesses of Cyrene (Corpus Inscript. No. 5143). ἀριστιει would
+appear to be an error of the lapidary for ἀριστίζει, as there is no
+such form as ἀριστίω. The fragment No. 9 is too mutilated to admit
+of any conjectural restoration, but it belongs to the same slab. In
+the British Museum.</p>
+
+<table id="t112b">
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad1 sect05bot">No. 10.—<a href="#i80">Pl. 80.</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ἀγκάρηνος . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Τι. Κλαύδιος Τορκο . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad3">ἡ πόλις</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Τ. Φλάβιος Βαρκα[ῖος (?)</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(5)</td>
+<td class="pad3">ἡ πόλις</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Τ. Φλάβιος Ἀγχιοτ . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Μ. Οὔλπιος Ἀριο . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>δεγμος Κασκέλλ[ιος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Τ]ι. Κλαύδιος Βατ . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdr pad-right05">(10)</td>
+<td class="pad2">Φιλιππο . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>On a block of marble lying on the mosaic pavement in the temple
+of Apollo. This inscription contains a list of names, but it is too
+mutilated to admit of the purport being ascertained.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_113">[113]</span>No. 11.—<a href="#i80">Pl. 80.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Διὸς Σωτῆρος.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a column of sandstone, 1 foot 5 inches in diameter, broken at
+the top, but present height 3 feet; found in ruins to the north of
+the temple of Apollo. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_75">p.
+75.</a>) The inscription shows that the altar was dedicated to Zeus
+Soter.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 12.—<a href="#i81">Pl.
+81.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ὑπὲρ τῆς Νέρωνος Κλαυδίου</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Καίσαρος νίκης καὶ σωτηρίας</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">καὶ τοῦ οἴκου αὐτοῦ παντὸς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀπόλλωνι Ἀποβατηρίῳ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Μ. Ἀντώνιος Γέμελλος ἐκ τῶν τοῦ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent2">Ἀπόλλωνος.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a block of blue marble, 2 feet 3½ inches by 2 feet 9½ inches
+by 12½ inches, found in some ruins north of the temple of Apollo.
+(See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_75">p. 75.</a>) This is a
+dedication to the Apollo Apobaterios, “the protector of persons
+landing,” offered by M. Antonius Gemellus, from the funds of the
+temple of Apollo, as a vow for the success and safety of the
+Emperor Nero and all his family. From the epithet ἀποβατήριος
+applied to Apollo in this inscription, it may be inferred that the
+emperor was then engaged in some voyage. The name ΝΕΡΩΝΟΣ, in l. 1,
+is nearly erased. In the British Museum.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 13.—<a href="#i81">Pl.
+81.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ὑπὲρ τῆς Νέρωνος Κλαυδίου</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Καίσαρος νίκης καὶ σωτηρίας</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">καὶ τοῦ οἴκου αὐτοῦ παντὸς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀπόλλωνι Μυρτώῳ Μ. Ἀντώνιος</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Γέμελλος ἐκ τῶν τοῦ Ἀπόλλωνος.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a block of blue limestone found in some ruins to the north of
+the temple of Apollo. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_75">p.
+75.</a>) This is a dedication to the Myrtoan Apollo, offered by M.
+Antonius Gemellus, from the funds of the temple of Apollo, as a vow
+for the success and safety of the Emperor Nero and all his family.
+Published, Böckh, Corpus Inscript., III. No. 5138.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 14.—<a href="#i81">Pl.
+81.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Φι] λῖνος Φιλίνου</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ἱαριτεύων</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">ἀνέθηκε.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a circular marble pedestal or altar, 2 feet 1 inch by 1 foot
+10 inches, found near the north-east angle of the temple of Apollo.
+(See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_75">p. 75.</a>) A dedication by
+Philinos, son of Philinos, priest, probably, of Apollo.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 15.—<a href="#i82">Pl.
+82.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">. . . . . . . . . . . . . .</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">. . . . . . επισ. . . .</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">δημαρχι]κῆς ἐξ[ουσίας</div>
+
+<div class="line indent3">τὸ γ′ ὑπ[άτῳ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">τὸ γ′ πατρὶ πατρἰ-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">δος ἡ Κυρηναίω[ν</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">πόλις, ἀφιερώσα[ν-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">τος Α. Μινικίου</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ῥούφου ἀνθυπάτου.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a block of sandstone found in the temple of Apollo. (See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_43">p. 43.</a>) This appears to
+be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> the dedication,
+by the Proconsul of Cyrene, A. Minicius Rufus, to some emperor, in
+his third consulship and third tribuneship; but these dates do not
+serve to identify him. The dedication is made in the name of the
+people of Cyrene. The name A. Minicius Rufus does not occur in
+Gruter’s Corpus Inscript. Latin.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 16.—<a href="#i82">Pl.
+82.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">. . . . . . Πτο]λεμαῖον Σωτήρων</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">. . . . . . ιστων Λυσιφάνευς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent3">ἀνέθηκε.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a slab of marble built into the corner of a wall, in the
+restored part of the temple of Apollo, on the second story. As the
+inscribed face was turned inwards, this marble must have been taken
+from some earlier edifice. This is a dedication by some one, son of
+Lysiphanes. The letters are of a good period.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 17.—<a href="#i82">Pl.
+82.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">. . . . χως Ἡσυχίῳ τῷ κτίστῃ.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a pedestal, 2 feet 9 inches by 1 foot 7½ inches by 1 foot 7
+inches, ornamented with enriched mouldings, found between the
+temple of Venus and the building marked “Palace” on the <a href=
+"#i40">Plan,</a> but which is probably an Augusteum.</p>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t114">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect05bot">No. 18.—<a href="#i83">Pl.
+83.</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Εὐβάτας Ἀκεσάνδρω</td>
+<td>Ἀλεξίμαχος Αἰγα . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ἡρίλοχος Στράτητος</td>
+<td>Ἐτυμοκλῆς Ἀρις . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ἁγήσαρχος Κλέωνος</td>
+<td>δαμοκοσμοθε . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Τελεσφορέντες</td>
+<td class="pad2">τὰν θ[εόν (?)</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>On a slab of marble found in a building near the temple of
+Bacchus, marked “Palace” on the <a href="#i40">Plan,</a> but which
+is probably an Augusteum. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_76">p.
+76.</a>) Ll. 3, 4 cannot be read satisfactorily. The Ο at the end
+of δαμο is quite clear in the rubbing, otherwise we might read
+Ἀρισ[τοδάμω κοσμοθ[έται]. Τελεσφορέντες is also perfectly clear,
+but how it can be formed from τελεσφορέω is not so clear. It may be
+either miswritten for τελεσφορεῦντες? or formed from τελεσφόρημι.
+In Hom. we have φορῆναι, φορήμεναι, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 19.—<a href="#i82">Pl.
+82.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Κυρήνην πολίων μητρόπτολιν, ἣν στέφει
+αὐτὴ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent3">ἠπείρων Λιβύη τρισσὸν ἔχουσα κλέος,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἐνθάδ’ ὑπὲρ μελάθροιο λεοντοφόνον θέτο
+Κάρπος,</div>
+
+<div class="line indent3">Εὐξάμενος μεγάλης σῆμα φιλοξενίης.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the foot of a bas-relief found on the site of the temple of
+Venus. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_77">p. 77</a> and
+<a href="#Page_97">p. 97.</a>) The inscription records the
+dedication of the relief, in token of great hospitality, by one
+Karpos, who, it may be presumed, had as a stranger been hospitably
+received by the people of Cyrene. The subject of the relief is
+stated to be the crowning of the lion-slaying nymph Cyrene by
+Libya, who has the triple glory of continents—ἠπείρων τρισσὸν
+ἔχουσα κλέος. This seems to refer to the threefold population of
+Libya, native Africans, and European and Asiatic colonists. The
+relief is to be placed ὑπὲρ μελάθροιο, which must be translated
+“above the architrave,” for the relief is evidently a metope.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 20.—<a href="#i83">Pl.
+83.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Γ]άϊος Νώνιο[ς . . . . εινος</div>
+
+<div class="line indent2">τῇ θεῷ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Μιλήσιος ὁ καὶ Κυρηνε . . . . . .
+ενος</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a marble pedestal found in the <em>cella</em> of the temple
+of Venus. (See <em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_77">p. 77.</a>) A
+statue must have stood on this pedestal, as part of the feet
+remained.</p>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t115">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect05bot"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_115">[115]</span>No. 21.—<a href="#i83">Pl. 83.</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc">. . . . . .</td>
+<td>. . . . . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>. . . . . . σαγόρα φ</td>
+<td>Ἀννικέρ[ιος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>. . . . . . Ξούθω φ</td>
+<td>Λυσι . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>. . . . Ἀ]λέξιος φ</td>
+<td>Φιλοκώ[μω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>. . . . Θευχρήστω φ</td>
+<td class="pad1">Σωσικράτευς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad2">Βιάνδρω φ</td>
+<td>Λυ . . . .</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad4">Ἀναξ. . . .</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Fragment of a slab of marble found in the Augusteum. (See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_76">p. 76.</a>) This inscription
+seems to be part of a list of subscribers to some public
+contribution.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 22.—<a href="#i83">Pl.
+83.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀστυκράτης</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">Εὐκλείδα</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a marble pedestal, 4 feet by 1 foot 6 inches by 1 foot, found
+in the <em>pronaos</em> of the temple of Venus. (See <em>ante</em>,
+<a href="#Page_77">p. 77.</a>) The letters are of a good
+period.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 23.—<a href="#i83">Pl.
+83.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Αὐτοκράτορα Καίσαρα Τεῖτον Αἴ]λιον
+Ἀδριανὸν</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀντωνεῖνον Σεβαστὸν θεῶ Ἀδριανοῦ] υἱὸν,
+θεῶ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Τραϊανοῦ Παρθικοῦ] υἱωνὸν, θεῶ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Νερούα ἔγγονον, σωτῆρα κ]αὶ
+εὐεργέταν</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+. ὑπὸ Τείτου</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Fragment of a slab of marble found in the Augusteum. (See
+<em>ante</em>, <a href="#Page_76">p. 76.</a>) This appears to be
+part of a dedication to the Emperor Antoninus Pius, whose bust was
+found in the same building.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 24.—<a href="#i84">Pl.
+84.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Μ. Ἀντώνιος Κερέαδις</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Πτολεμαίου Ι.Ι.Ι.Ι. υἱός</div>
+
+<div class="line indent4">Αἰγλάνωρ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Μητρόδωρος Ι. τοῦ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Μητροδώρου</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">L<span class="overline">ρη</span>. Τι.
+Κλαύδιος Ἀρχίππου</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">υἱὸς Ἄρχιππος</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">L<span class="overline">pθ</span> Μ.
+Ἀντώνιος Μ. Ἀντωνίου</div>
+
+<div class="line indent2">Φλάμμα υἱὸς Κασκέλλιος.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a large marble slab, measuring 3 feet 1 inch by 2 feet 7
+inches by 1 foot 1 inch, built into a partition wall in the temple
+of Apollo, the writing turned inwards. It contains a list of names
+of priests of Apollo. This is shown by the inscription from Cyrene
+(Corpus Inscript., III. No. 5144), where the name M. Antonius
+Kaskellios occurs with the same date. Λ is Λυκάβαντι, <em>in the
+year</em> . . . The two dates <span class="overline">ρη</span> and
+<span class="overline">pθ</span> refer to the era of Actium. (See
+Franz, Corpus Inscript., <em>loc. cit.</em> &amp;c., p. 1241.) The
+four vertical strokes which precede the word υἱός, l. 2, probably
+indicate that the ancestors of M. Antonios Kereadis for four
+generations had been called Ptolemaios. The use of vertical strokes
+is peculiar here. The usual way of marking the successive
+generations is either by letters, α′ β′ γ′, or by the words δίς,
+τρίς, κ.τ.λ. (<em>See</em> Franz, Elementa Epigraphices Græcæ, p.
+304.) So Μητρόδωρος Ι. τοῦ Μητροδώρου is Metrodoros, grandson of
+Metrodoros. The M. Antonius<span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_116">[116]</span> Flamma mentioned in this inscription is
+probably the same as the Antonius Flamma mentioned by Tacitus,
+Hist. IV. 45.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 25.—<a href="#i84">Pl.
+84.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀσκλαπὸν Ἀσκλαπῶ ἱερατεύον-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">τα τῶ Ἀπόλλωνος ἀρετᾶς ἕ[νε-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">κα καὶ εὐνοίας ἅς ἔχων δια[τε-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">λεῖ ἔς τε τὸς κοινὸς εὐεργ[έτας</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ῥωμαίος καὶ ἐς τὰν πόλιν κα[ὶ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">τὸς ἱαρὲς καὶ τᾶς ποτὶ τὸ[ς θεὸς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">χάριν εὐ]σεβείας οἱ ἱαρὲς τ[ῶ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent1">Ἀπ]όλλωνος ἀνέθ[ηκαν.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a slab of marble built into a rough modern wall about 20
+yards to the westward of the temple of Apollo. Published, Böckh,
+Corpus Inscript., III. No. 5131, from a copy taken before the
+marble was broken at the edges, and which is therefore more
+complete; and Letronne, Journal des Savans, 1848, p. 372.</p>
+
+<p>On the reverse of the same slab—</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 26.—<a href="#i84">Pl.
+84.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Τ. Κλαύδιος Ἀριστομέ-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">νης Μάγνος, ὁ καὶ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Περικλῆς, ἱαρειτεύων</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">ἕκταν τᾶν τῶ Ἀπόλλω-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">νος προσόδων.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>This is a dedication of a statue in honour of Asclapos, priest
+of Apollo, on account of his services to the city, the Romans, and
+the priests, and his piety to the gods. The dedication is made by
+the priests of Apollo. This records a dedication made out of a
+sixth part of the revenues of the temple of Apollo by T. Claudius
+Aristomenes Magnus, priest of Apollo. Published by Franz, Corpus
+Inscript., III. No. 5137, who reads ἐκ τᾶν τῶ Ἀπόλλωνος, and
+rejects the second ΤΑΝ as an erroneous repetition; but the reading
+is certain. (<em>See</em> Letronne, Journal des Savans, 1848, p.
+371.)</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 27.—<a href="#i85">Pl.
+85.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀριστοτέλης</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Σώσιος, ἱαρεὺς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀπόλλωνος, μηθέ-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">να ἐντίθη . .</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>In large letters over one of the recesses in a large tomb on the
+south-east side of the city, adjoining the path leading to Sassaf
+and Gheigheb. L. 4, ἐντίθη for ἐντίθει. Published, Böckh, Corpus
+Inscript., III. No. 5154.</p>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t116">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc sect05bot">No. 28.—<a href="#i85">Pl.
+85.</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Γάϊος Ἀπείσιος</td>
+<td>Διονύσω</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Νίγερ πρεσβύτερος</td>
+<td>ἱερεὺς</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="pad2">σν</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Over a compartment in the interior of a small tomb in the
+Eastern Necropolis. This inscription contains the name of Caius
+Apeisios Niger, a priest of Dionysos, a temple of which Deity was
+discovered in the course of the excavations.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center"><span class="pagenum" id=
+"Page_117">[117]</span>No. 29.—<a href="#i86">Pl. 86.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Βαρκλῆος</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ἀστυκλεῦς</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Μνάστα</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Κρίνιος.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Over a recess in the same tomb whence No. 27 is taken.
+Published, Corpus Inscript., III. No. 5166; and Pacho, tab. LXV.
+10, where the first name is incorrectly read Χ]αρ[ι]κλῆος.</p>
+
+<table class="padded1" id="t117">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc sect05bot">No. 30.—<a href="#i86">Pl. 86.</a></td>
+<td class="tdc sect05bot">No. 31.—<a href="#i86">Pl. 86.</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Σίμων Σι . . . . . . . .</td>
+<td>Στράτω-</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Πευσάν-</td>
+<td>ν Εὐπό-</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>δρου L δ′.</td>
+<td class="pad1">λιδος</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad2">L λ′.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 32.—<a href="#i86">Pl.
+86.</a></div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">Ποπελίας Πευσά-</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">νδρου ΘLλθ′.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nos. 30, 31, 32 are round the entrance of a small tomb in the
+Eastern Necropolis. The four last letters of l. 2 seem to be
+ΘΛ[υκάβαντι] λθ′, the year 38, recording probably the age at which
+Popelias died. The significance of the Θ which precedes the L must
+be left to conjecture; perhaps it stands for θεοῖς.</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center">No. 33.</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">. . . . ΡΑΙΑΝΩΙΑΔΡΙΑΝΩ. . . .</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">. . . . ΟΝΣΥΝΤΩΙΠΡΟΝ . . . .</div>
+
+<div class="line indent3">ΤΩ . . . . ΦΛ . . . . ΦΛ . . . .</div>
+
+<div class="line indent8">Τ]ραϊανῷ Ἀδριανῷ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent7">τὸν να]ὸν σὺν τῷ πρόν[αῳ</div>
+
+<div class="line indent7 word-spaced10">τω φλ φλ</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On a piece of architrave of sandstone, found in ruins to the
+north of the temple of Apollo. This appears to be part of the
+dedication of a temple to the Emperor Trajan.</p>
+
+<p class="center med space-above2 space-below2">THE END.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i77">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 77.</p>
+<a href="images/i77_large.jpg"><img src='images/i77.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i78">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 78.</p>
+<a href="images/i78_large.jpg"><img src='images/i78.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i79">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 79.</p>
+<a href="images/i79_large.jpg"><img src='images/i79.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i80">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 80.</p>
+<a href="images/i80_large.jpg"><img src='images/i80.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i81">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 81.</p>
+<a href="images/i81_large.jpg"><img src='images/i81.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i82">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 82.</p>
+<a href="images/i82_large.jpg"><img src='images/i82.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="i83">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 83.</p>
+<a href="images/i83_large.jpg"><img src='images/i83.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw3">
+<figure id="i84">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 84.</p>
+<a href="images/i84_large.jpg"><img src='images/i84.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="i85">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 85.</p>
+<a href="images/i85_large.jpg"><img src='images/i85.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenterplate iw1">
+<figure id="i86">
+<p class="cp5">CYRENE.</p>
+
+<p class="platelabel">PL. 86.</p>
+<a href="images/i86_large.jpg"><img src='images/i86.jpg' alt=
+''></a>
+<p class="ipubc">Day & Son, Lith<sup>rs</sup>. to the Queen</p>
+
+<p class="cp4">INSCRIPTIONS</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class=
+"label">[1]</span></a>Thrige, p. 48.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class=
+"label">[2]</span></a>We were informed by some Arabs that these
+paintings were quarried out by M. Bourville.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class=
+"label">[3]</span></a>The plans of the Temples of Apollo and
+Bacchus, have unfortunately been lost.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class=
+"label">[4]</span></a>In the foreground, <a href="#i46">Plate
+46,</a> is shown a circular tomb, protected by an outer wall, with
+a passage left between. We did not meet with this type of tomb at
+Cyrene.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class=
+"label">[5]</span></a>Another place he had intended to make a stand
+and dispute our passage was at a range of tombs called by the Arabs
+the “Kenissieh.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class=
+"label">[6]</span></a>The <a href="#i59">view opposite</a> will
+show more clearly this locality, as well as the exterior of the
+tombs we lived in during our stay.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class=
+"label">[7]</span></a>Ueber eine in der Gegend der ehemaligen
+Kyrene gesammelte Wurzelrinde, und über das Silphium der alten
+Griechen.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Schroff gives the following references to modern literature
+of <i>Silphium</i>:—</p>
+
+<ul class="simple1">
+<li><em>Link</em>, Ueber das Kyrenäische Silphium. Akad. Berlin, 19
+März, 1829.</li>
+
+<li><em>Böttiger</em>, Ueber das Silphium oder Laser von Kyrene.
+Oken’s Osis. 1829, p. 317.</li>
+
+<li><em>Sprengel</em>, Beiträge zur Geschichte der Medicin, i. pt.
+i. 1794; Geschichte der Botanik, i. 1817.</li>
+
+<li><em>Thrige</em>, Res Cyrenensium, &amp;c. Hafniæ, 1828.</li>
+
+<li><em>Eckhel</em>, Doctrina Numorum veterum conscripta. Pt. i.
+vol. iv. Vindob. 1794.</li>
+
+<li><em>Müller</em>, Numismatique de l’ancienne Afrique. Vol. i.
+Les Monnaies de la Cyrénaïque. Copenh. 1860.</li>
+
+<li><em>Macé</em>, Rev. Archéologique, xiv. 1857.</li>
+
+<li><em>Beechey</em>, Expedition, chap. xv.</li>
+
+<li><em>Pacho</em>, Voy. dans la Cyrénaïque en 1825, ch.
+xviii.</li>
+
+<li><em>Cella</em>, Viaggio da Tripoli, &amp;c., Geneva, 1819, p.
+127.</li>
+
+<li><em>Barth</em>, Wanderungen, &amp;c. Bd. i. 1849.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class=
+"label">[8]</span></a>“Es gibt nicht gar so viele Medicinalpflanzen
+der alten Welt, von denen man mit einer solchen Sicherheit
+behaupten kann, dass sie mit uns genau bekannten Pflanzen zusammen
+fallen, wie dies hier mit der Thapsia der Alten und mit <i>Thapsia
+Silphium</i>, und <i>Th. garganica</i> unserer Botaniker der Fall
+ist.”—(<i>Thapsia Silphium</i>, of Viviani, is a mere variety of
+<i>T. Garganica</i>.)</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="space-above2 x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<div class="transnote">
+<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Changes in the <a href="#err">ERRATA</a> have been done.</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a> Changed: "led to the expediton
+being" to: "expedition"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_xii">xii</a> Changed: "suppposed statue of
+Hadrian" to: "supposed"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_14">14</a> <a href="#i04">plate 4</a>
+Changed: "Amor Bon Adbi Seyat" to: "Abdi"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_71">71</a> Changed: "were two feet in
+diamter" to: "diameter"</li>
+
+<li>caption <a href="#i65">plate 65</a> Changed: "CNŒUS CORNELIUS
+LENTULUS MARCELLINUS" to: "CNÆUS"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_88">88</a> <a href="#Footnote_8">footnote
+8</a> Changed: "<i>Thapsia Silphium</i>, of Vicrani" to:
+"Viviani"</li>
+
+<li>pg <a href="#Page_89">89</a> Changed: "<i>Thapsia Silphium</i>,
+Vir." to: "Viv."</li>
+
+<li>Other spelling inconsistencies left unchanged.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78462 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
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+This book, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78462
+(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78462)