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+ <title>The Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society (Vol. I, No. 4), December, 1900 | Project Gutenberg</title>
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+ <body>
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78187 ***</div>
+
+<div class='tnotes covernote'>
+
+<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p>
+
+<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='titlepage'>
+
+<div>
+ <h1 class='c001'><span class='xlarge'>THE QUARTERLY</span><br> <span class='xsmall'>OF THE</span><br> <span class='sc'>Oregon Historical Society</span>.<br> <span class='small'><span class='sc'>Volume 1</span> <br>&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; DECEMBER, 1900&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; <br> <span class='sc'>Number 4</span></span><br> <span class='large'>OREGON TRAIL NUMBER.</span></h1>
+</div>
+
+<div class='c002 figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/r_cover.jpg' alt='Seal of the Oregon Historical Society showing crossed tools and a handshake, with the words &#39;Peace and Friendship&#39; and &#39;Incorporated December 17, 1898.&#39;' class='ig001'>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <h2 class='c003'>CONTENTS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<table class='table0'>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>F. G. Young</i>—<span class='sc'>The Oregon Trail</span></td>
+ <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_339'>339</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Jesse Applegate</i>—<span class='sc'>A Day With The Cow Column in 1843</span></td>
+ <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_371'>371</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Col. George L. Currey’s Tribute to the Ox Whip</span></td>
+ <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_384'>384</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Sam L. Simpson</i>—<span class='sc'>The Camp Fires of the Pioneers</span></td>
+ <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_385'>385</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Joaquin Miller</i>—<span class='sc'>Pilgrims of the Plains</span></td>
+ <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_395'>395</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Joaquin Miller</i>—<span class='sc'>Pioneers of the Pacific</span></td>
+ <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_397'>397</a></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Documents</span>—The Oregon Emigrants, 1843</td>
+ <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_398'>398</a></td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+ <div>PRICE: THIRTY-FIVE CENTS PER NUMBER, ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <h2 class='c003'><span class='sc'>The Oregon Historical Society</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+ <div><span class='sc'>Organized December 17, 1898</span></div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<table class='table0'>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>H. W. SCOTT</td>
+ <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>President</span></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>C. B. BELLINGER</td>
+ <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>Vice-President</span></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>F. G. YOUNG</td>
+ <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>Secretary</span></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>CHARLES E. LADD</td>
+ <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>Treasurer</span></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>George H. Himes</span>, Assistant Secretary.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>DIRECTORS</h3>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c002'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>THE GOVERNOR OF OREGON, <i>ex officio</i>.</div>
+ <div class='line'>THE SUPERINTENDENT OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION, <i>ex officio</i>.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1901,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>F. G. YOUNG, L. B. COX.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1902,</div>
+ <div class='line'>JAMES R. ROBERTSON, JOSEPH R. WILSON.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1903,</div>
+ <div class='line'>C. B. BELLINGER, MRS. MARIA L. MYRICK.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1901,</div>
+ <div class='line'>H. W. SCOTT, MRS. HARRIET K. McARTHUR.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><cite>The Quarterly</cite> is sent free to all members of the Society. The annual dues
+are two dollars. The fee for life membership is twenty-five dollars.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Contributions to <cite>The Quarterly</cite> and correspondence relative to historical
+materials, or pertaining to the affairs of this Society, should be addressed to</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='large'>F. G. YOUNG,</span></div>
+ <div class='line in8'><i>Secretary</i>.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Eugene, Oregon.</span></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>Subscriptions for <cite>The Quarterly</cite>, or for the other publications of the
+Society, should be sent to</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>GEORGE H. HIMES,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'><i>Assistant Secretary</i>.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='sc'>City Hall, Portland, Oregon.</span></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<a href='images/i_frontis_hr.jpg'><img src='images/i_frontis.jpg' alt='Faint hand-drawn map of Oregon showing early trail routes and transportation lines across the state, with rivers and small place labels.' class='ig001'></a>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter ph1'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c010'>
+ <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Volume I</span>]&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; DECEMBER, 1900&#8196; &#8196; &#8196; [<span class='sc'>Number 4</span></span></div>
+ <div class='c002'><span class='xlarge'>THE QUARTERLY</span></div>
+ <div class='c002'><span class='xsmall'>OF THE</span></div>
+ <div class='c002'><span class='sc'>Oregon Historical Society</span>.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_339'>339</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>THE OREGON TRAIL.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c011'>The early Oregon pioneers not only gained the first
+secure foothold for the American people on the Pacific
+Coast, but their movement opened the way to American
+occupation and in itself counted as an occupation of that
+realm for American civilization. They moved across the
+continent at an auspicious time, and so were able to
+influence, if not to shape, the course of great events
+touching the widening of the American dominion on the
+Pacific. It was all done so quietly, so efficiently, at so
+comparatively small cost and without any shock of harrowing
+disaster, that the world has yet to connect the
+momentous results with a cause seemingly so inadequate.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>As the American people come to realize that their
+distinctively national achievement so far, next to that of
+maintaining a national integrity, has been that of preempting
+and subduing an adequate dominion and home
+for a civilization they will revere the services of those
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_340'>340</span>who made the transcontinental migrations in the thirties,
+forties and fifties. The glory that belongs to the participants
+in those migrations is the peculiar birthright of
+the patriotic Oregonian. The passage from the Atlantic
+slope to the Pacific of these first American households
+bearing the best embers of western civilization must ever
+stand as a momentous event in the annals of time.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>For twenty-eight years, now, surviving participants
+in this world event have annually assembled to recount
+the incidents of their coming to Oregon, to live over that
+trying but hallowed time, to rekindle old flames of friendship
+and form new ties on the basis of their common
+experiences. At these meetings of the Oregon pioneers
+there was always an “occasional address” in which the
+reminiscences of the immigration of some particular year
+were given. As the journal of the association puts it,
+the object of the association “should be to collect reminiscences
+relating to pioneers and the early history of
+the territory; to promote social intercourse, and cultivate
+the life-enduring friendships that in many instances had
+been formed while making the long, perilous journey of
+the wide, wild plains, which separated the western boundary
+of civilization thirty years ago from the land which
+they had resolved to reclaim.” The biographical notices
+contained in the transactions of their association all mark
+this coming to Oregon as a dividing event in the lives of
+their subjects. That generation of Oregonians suffered
+something like a transfiguration through this movement,
+which also widened the nation’s outlook—in making
+it face a greater sea. These transforming influences
+wrought their effects during the summer season that
+each successive immigration spent on the Oregon trail,
+while journeying in canvas-topped oxen-drawn wagons
+from the banks of the Missouri to those of the Willamette.
+The greatest epochal expansion of the nation was insured
+through these migrations at the same time that the participants
+were translating their lives to a new sphere.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_340a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>1.—Near the site of Fort Kearney on the Platte. (Part of pontoon bridge is used as road fence.)</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_341'>341</span>For engaging and vivid detail of experiences in this
+movement, recourse must be had to the transactions of
+the Oregon Pioneer Association, and to journals kept on
+the way across the plains. These will ever have an interest
+for the heart of man as they show life under heroic
+impulse and in trying conditions long sustained. The
+whole movement Oregonward has an epic unity, and when
+its significance has become fully manifest will challenge
+the powers of the national poet.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>But the movement has not yet, even in its outward
+aspects, been viewed as a whole. To mark off its limits
+in time, in routes taken, in numbers and population elements
+involved; to note the main motives, the forms of
+characteristic experiences; in a word to make, as it were,
+a composite view with relation to national history as a
+background,—would seem to be the first step for realizing
+the due appreciation of the significance of the work of
+the Oregon pioneers. A sketch of the outlines of the
+movement in its more salient features, then, is what is
+attempted here, with the hope that such setting forth of
+the movement as a whole, with outlines more or less
+closely defined, will lead to its being brought fully into
+relation with the general course of events of American
+history. Until the story of the Oregon movement is thus
+set forth, the historians of our national life cannot weave
+it into its proper conspicuous relations in their narratives.
+It has no doubt been largely due to this lack if
+the story of this pioneer achievement in available form
+that a somewhat undue estimate of Doctor Whitman’s
+services and the acceptance of mythical accretions to them
+have come about. The Whitman story was early available
+and was made to do service in accounting for a larger
+outcome than facts warranted.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_342'>342</span>The Oregon migrations effected at one sweep a two
+thousand mile extension of the Aryan movement westward
+in the occupation of the north temperate zone—“a
+far-flung” outpost of occupation and settlement. To
+appreciate the boldness, intrepidity and consummate
+effectiveness of such pioneering we have but to note that
+no previous extension had compassed one-fourth this distance.
+Nor were the conditions in this instance easy.
+One continuous stretch of Indian country infested with
+most formidable predatory tribes had to be passed
+through. Conditions approximating those of a desert
+had to be faced during a large part of the migration.
+There were swift rivers to ford or ferry, and three mountain
+ranges to scale. Only one form of the usual difficulties
+of pioneer road-making did not appear. There
+were no extensive forests to penetrate except on the
+ridges of the Blue and the Cascade Mountains.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The settlements of the blue grass region of Kentucky,
+and the Nashville district, in Western Tennessee, were,
+when first made, the most isolated from the main body
+of the American people. Yet, these had less than a four-hundred
+mile stretch between them and the settled region
+of the Atlantic slope. No other outward movement of
+Aryan people ever covered anything like the distance
+made by the Oregon pioneers on the Oregon trail. Measured
+by the sea voyage, the Oregon settlements were a
+leap of seventeen thousand miles.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_342a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>2.—“LONE OR COURT HOUSE ROCK.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>Though the Oregon pioneers traced the first trail
+across the continent, adapting for sections of it the lines
+of travel of fur trading expeditions; yet, were it not for
+the title of Francis Parkman’s narrative (which, however,
+has only the slightest references to anything pertaining
+to its title), I am not sure but that the very name
+would have been lost to all except Oregonians. The
+meagerness of Parkman’s presentation of the transcontinental
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_343'>343</span>movement is easily accounted for. He did not
+take his trip of roughing it to Fort Laramie and the
+Black Hills, in 1846, to see the Oregon pioneers. His
+plans to write the history of the new France in America
+tended to narrow his interest strictly to aspects of Indian
+life as they were with the Indian in his original state.
+He was concerned solely during his life on the plains to
+get that insight into Indian character and customs that he
+might interpret the records of the relations of the French
+with them, and give his narrative in his great life work
+truth, life, and color. Had he been inclined to associate
+himself with the westward moving trains, and to enter
+into their life and thought, his “Oregon Trail” would
+naturally have been a final characterization of the migrations
+up to the stage they had assumed at that time.
+There are, however, indications in some of his references
+to the pioneers that their necessarily <i>deshabille</i> condition
+while en route, and the astounding and almost reckless
+character of their undertaking were by him set in contrast
+with the steady comfortable ways of the New England
+folk from which he hailed and the Oregonians correspondingly
+disparaged. In this he would be bringing a
+pioneer phase of civilization into comparison with a more
+finished form. The wayfaring pioneers were still marking
+out wider and more natural limits for the national
+home, while the New Englanders were advancing the
+arts of life on the original nucleus of national territory.
+But who can say to which the nation in its destiny owes
+the more?</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Two years ago there appeared a book of five hundred
+and twenty-nine pages written by Colonels Henry Inman
+and William F. Cody, bearing the title, “The Great Salt
+Lake Trail.” In its preface there is to be found the following
+comment on its title: “Over this historical highway
+the Mormons made their lonely hegira.&#160;*&#160;*&#160;*
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_344'>344</span>Over this route, also, were made those world renowned
+expeditions by Fremont, Stansbury, Lander, and others
+of lesser fame, to the heart of the Rocky Mountains,
+and beyond, to the blue shores of the Pacific Ocean.
+Over the same trackless waste the pony express executed
+those marvelous feats in annihilating distance, and
+the once famous overland stage lumbered along through
+the seemingly interminable desert of sage brush and
+alkali dust—<i>avant-courieres</i> of the telegraph and the
+railroad.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The body of the book touches upon topics ranging in
+time from Jonathan Carver’s explorations in 1766-’68 to
+the building of the Union Pacific Railroad. Its map
+lays “The Old Salt Lake Trail” exactly on the route of
+the Oregon trail as far as Fort Bridger, in Southwestern
+Wyoming. But the Oregon migrations are not hinted
+at by a single word in the body of the book. The authors’
+account of them could not have been crowded out
+by more weighty matters, as all the disjointed fragments
+of Indian hunting and fighting and drunken carousal,
+whether happening on the line of the trail or not, are
+crowded in. Either the story of the Oregon movement
+during the thirties, forties and fifties was absolutely
+unknown to Colonels Inman and Cody, or, if known,
+thought worthy of relegation to oblivion by them.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>In interviews last summer with people living along
+the line of the trail, only those whose experiences extended
+back to the time of the Oregon migrations recognized
+the trail as the Oregon trail. It was always the
+“California trail” or the “Mormon trail.”</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_344a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>3.—The North Fork of Platte—its sandy bottom exposed.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>It is, of course, to be conceded that more people
+traveled this road to California than to Oregon. But
+the Oregon movement was first in time. By it the feasibility
+of the route was demonstrated, and people susceptible
+to the western fever were accustomed to think of
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_345'>345</span>the trip across the plains in a way that brought them
+when the cry of California gold was raised, or when as
+Mormon converts they were longing for a refuge from
+molestation. Then, too, the Oregon pioneers not only
+led the way; they decided our destiny Pacificward. It
+is time that history was conferring its award of justice
+to them. The highway they opened to the greater sea,
+and which their march made glorious, should take its
+name from them and thus help to commemorate unto
+coming generations the momentous import of their
+achievement for all the future of mankind.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The transcontinental movement as a march of civilization
+to the west shore of the continent was in its
+incipiency a missionary enterprise. There is hardly any
+doubt, however, but that the home-seeking pioneer
+would have been on the way just as soon without the
+initiative of the missionary heroes and heroines. It is,
+nevertheless, the lasting glory of the Presbyterian and
+Congregational denominations that under the auspices
+of their missionary board the first American families
+successfully made the passage that was to sweep such a
+marvelous movement into its train. The Methodist
+Episcopal missionary enterprise antedated all others
+and played a conspicuous role in the political organization
+of the Oregon community, but it was not first in
+setting up the American home. So long as it lacked
+that it could not bear an American civilization, which
+was the crucial matter. It was Whitman who demonstrated
+the possibility of taking households across the
+plains, and this achievement, too, was a decisive initiative.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>But how did the impulse to make this dangerous
+and arduous journey to the then far-off wilderness of
+Oregon originate with the missionary and the home-seeking
+pioneers? The inception of the Oregon movement
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_346'>346</span>in both its missionary and its pioneering aspects
+is best understood when viewed as outbursts of missionary
+zeal and energy and pioneer daring and restlessness
+from vast stores of potential missionary and pioneer
+spirit existing in this country in the thirties. Missionary
+activity in the direction of Oregon was liberated
+by something like a spark, or, to change the metaphor,
+by a “long-distance” “Macedonian cry.” A delegation
+of four Nez Perces Indians from the upper waters of the
+Columbia arrived in St. Louis in 1832 in search of “the
+white man’s Book of Heaven.” An account of this
+singularly unique mission was published in the newspapers
+of the time. The story was made all the more
+effective and thrilling, with those of deep religious sensibilities,
+through its including what purported to be a
+verbatim report of a most pathetic farewell address
+made in General Clark’s office by one of the two surviving
+members of this mission.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The closing passage of the speech, as it has been
+handed down, is as follows:</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>“We are going back the long, sad trail to our people.
+When we tell them, after one more snow, in the big
+council that we did not bring the Book, no word will be
+spoken by our old men, nor by our young braves. One
+by one they will rise up and go out in silence. Our people
+will die in darkness, and they will go on the long
+path to other hunting grounds. No white man will go
+with them, and no Book of Heaven to make the way
+plain. We have no more words.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The missionary boards of several Protestant denominations
+were already establishing foreign missions in
+Africa, India, and among the western North American
+Indians. Hall J. Kelley had been agitating the cause of
+the Oregon Indians for half-a-generation. An appeal for
+missionary help so pathetic, so unheard of, and withal
+shedding such luster on those from whom it came, as
+was that of the Nez Perces delegation to St. Louis, could
+not fail to bring forth a missionary movement towards
+Oregon.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_346a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>4.—“CHIMNEY ROCK.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_347'>347</span>The spirit that materialized in the Oregon pioneer
+movement was not kindled by any special spark like that
+which called forth the missionary enterprises. Nor was
+it aroused by anything like the cry of gold that brought
+on the mad rush to California in ’49 and the early fifties.
+The Oregon migrations were the outcome of cool, calm,
+reasoned determination. This characterized the movement
+collectively as well as individually.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>In a sense, the Oregon movement was in preparation
+from the time when in 1636 Puritan congregations were
+led by Hooker and others from the vicinity of Boston
+westward through the forests to the banks of the Connecticut.
+This initial western movement was communicated
+along the Atlantic coast settlements by the Scotch-Irish
+crossing the Blue Ridge Mountains in Pennsylvania,
+and by the Virginians penetrating to the Shenandoah
+Valley. Some would say that an instinct to move
+west has been growing in strength among civilized peoples
+since about 1000 B. C., when the Phœnicians moved
+west on the Mediterranean to found Carthage, and the
+Greeks to plant colonies in southern Italy and at Marseilles.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>So largely had pioneering been the mode of life of
+those who were living in the western zone of settlement
+in the United States in 1840 that it was almost a cult
+with them. The traditions of each family led through
+the Cumberland Gap or west to Pittsburg and down the
+Ohio, or along the line of the Great Lakes. Hon.
+W. Lair Hill, in his “Annual Address” before the Pioneer
+Association in 1883, fitly characterizes the people
+among whom the Oregon movement took its rise. “The
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_348'>348</span>greater number of them were pioneers by nature and
+occupation, as their fathers had been before them. In
+childhood the story of their ancestors’ migrations from
+the east to the west, and then to the newer west was
+their handbook of history. Homer or Virgil, of whom
+few of them had ever heard, could have rehearsed no
+epic half so thrilling to their ears as the narratives of
+daring adventure and hairbreadth escapes, which, half
+true and half false, ever form the thread of frontier history.
+They knew nothing of Hector and Achilles, but
+they knew of Daniel Boone, who, Lord Byron said, ‘was
+happiest among mortals anywhere,’ whom civilization
+drove out of Pennsylvania by destroying the red deer
+and black bear, and who, after some years of solid comfort
+in his log cabin amid the wilds of Kentucky, was
+again pursued and overtaken by the same relentless
+enemy and compelled to retire into the Missouri wilderness,
+beyond the Mississippi; and who, even in that
+distant retreat, was soon forced to say to his friend and
+companion, according to current anecdote, ‘I was compelled
+to leave Kentucky because people came and settled
+so close around me I had no room to breathe. I thought
+when I came out here I should be allowed to live in
+peace; but this is all over now. A man has taken up a
+farm right over there, within twenty-five miles of my
+door.’ Of Boone, and such as Boone, most of them who
+founded the commonwealth of Oregon, knew much more
+than of the great names of literature, statesmanship, or
+arms, and their minds dwelt fondly on the exploits of the
+frontiersman, whether in the contests with the savages or
+the chase. More familiar with the log cabin than with
+the palace, with the rifle than with the spindle and loom,
+with saddle than with the railway, they felt cramped
+when the progress of empire in its westward way put
+restraint upon those habits of life to which they were
+accustomed.”</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_348a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>5.—“CASTLE AND STEAMBOAT ROCKS.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_349'>349</span>Knowledge of a “new country” was sure to create in
+them an almost irrepressible longing to move on. Such
+natures as these furnished the best culture conditions in
+which to develop an Oregon movement with the reports
+explorers and travelers brought from the far Pacific Coast
+region. Such Oregon material had early been disseminated
+among these susceptible people. The journal of
+the Lewis and Clark expedition was published in 1814
+and distributed far and wide as a government document.
+Pioneers speak of reading it as boys and of becoming
+permanently interested in the Oregon Country. The
+journal of Patrick Gass, a sergeant in the company of
+Lewis and Clark, fell into the hands of others and stirred
+their imaginations. From 1817 on until 1832 Hall J.
+Kelley, a Boston schoolmaster, was compiling and distributing
+information designed to awaken a desire to join
+in a movement to establish a civilized community in Oregon.
+His society is said to have had thirty-seven agents
+scattered through the union. An Oregon question became
+a subject of negotiation between Great Britain and
+the United States in 1818. These negotiations were renewed
+in 1824, 1827 and 1842. The occupation of Oregon
+was proposed in congress in 1821. The subject was kept
+before congress almost continuously until 1827, and again
+from 1837 on. The proposed legislation elicited exhaustive
+reports and warm discussions, which were published
+in the newspapers of the land. The bill of Dr. Lewis F.
+Linn, senator from Missouri, introduced in 1842, with its
+provision for a grant of six hundred and forty acres of
+land to every actual male settler, was naturally a most
+potent cause of resolutions to go to Oregon. The fact
+that during all these years Great Britain disputed our
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_350'>350</span>right to claim the whole of the Oregon Country only
+added to the ardor of some who thought of going thither.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Soon sources of fresh information brought direct
+from Oregon became available. St. Louis was the
+winter rendezvous of representatives of fur companies
+and independent trappers who were operating in the
+Rocky Mountains. These came in contact with officers
+and employees of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and
+from them secured much information about Oregon.
+Nathaniel J. Wyeth conducted two expeditions overland
+to the Lower Columbia between 1832 and 1836. Mr.
+William N. Slacum, who had been commissioned by
+President Jackson to visit the North Pacific Coast to conduct
+explorations and investigations among the inhabitants
+of that region, reported in 1837. Irving’s Astoria
+was brought out in 1836, and his Adventures of Captain
+Bonneville in 1837. In 1838 Jason Lee, the Methodist missionary,
+returned to the States, and talked Oregon wherever
+he went. His lecture on Oregon in Peoria, Illinois,
+that year netted an expedition of thirteen or fourteen
+persons for Oregon the next. The leader of this party,
+Thomas J. Farnham, returned to the East, and in 1841
+published a book of travels, which had a wide circulation.
+Dr. Elijah White, for several years associated with the
+Methodist mission enterprise, but who had returned to
+his home in New York, received an appointment in 1842
+as sub-Indian agent for Oregon. He immediately began
+a canvass for immigrants to Oregon. His party, made up
+mainly of those found on the Missouri border ready to
+start, added one hundred and twenty-seven to the American
+population in Oregon. During this same year
+Commodore Wilkes’ naval exploring expedition to
+Oregon returned and reported. Early in this year, too,
+Fremont’s overland party was organized, and was on
+the trail a short distance in the rear of Doctor White’s
+pioneer party. On February 1, 1843, the Linn bill
+passed the senate. All the missionaries were sending
+back letters giving glowing accounts of the attractions
+of Oregon. The famous winter ride of Doctor Whitman
+from Oregon to Missouri was made in the winter of
+1842–3. He did go to Washington and he urged the
+importance of American interests in Oregon upon President
+Tyler and some of the members of his cabinet.
+Returning west in the spring of 1843, he was at the
+Shawnee mission school, near Westport, Missouri, while
+the great migration of 1843 was forming and filing by.
+The sight reassured him that Oregon was to be occupied
+by American citizens. His thought seemed no longer
+mainly concerned with the pioneers getting to Oregon.
+There would be no trouble about that. His plans
+reached forward to include the conditions of a stable and
+progressive civilization there. His letters at this time,
+after mentioning the number of emigrants, turn to
+matters that would determine their condition as proposed
+settlers. He says: “A great many cattle are
+going, but no sheep, from a mistake of what I said in
+passing.” And again: “Sheep and cattle, but especially
+sheep, are indispensable for Oregon.&#160;*&#160;*&#160;* I
+mean to impress the Secretary of War that sheep are
+more to Oregon’s interests than soldiers.” Doctor
+Whitman’s influence had probably not been decisive
+with many of the pioneers, possibly not with any, in
+getting them started, but all the leaders of that great
+immigration testify that his services as pilot and counsellor
+were most valuable in getting them through.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_350a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>6.—“SCOTT’S BLUFF.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_351'>351</span>The facts so far marshalled on the origin of the pioneer
+movement to Oregon disclose the existence of a
+people in the Mississippi Valley competent for the undertaking,
+and on general principles not disinclined towards
+it, whose thought, moreover, had been arrested by some
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_352'>352</span>unique advantages claimed for the Oregon country. But
+the Oregon movement, like most migrations, has most
+light thrown on its origin and motive by an inquiry into
+the conditions that made the old home undesirable, and
+in some cases even unbearable.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Not a few came from Missouri, Kentucky and other
+border slave states because they were not in sympathy
+with the institution of slavery. Their aversion to slave
+owning placed them at a great disadvantage in those
+states. Their families were not recognized as socially
+the equals of the more influential portion of society.
+They were accustomed to labor, and slavery brought a
+stigma upon labor. In the cultivation of tobacco and
+hemp, the main articles of export, the owner of slave
+labor had a decided advantage. The employer of free
+labor found it exceedingly difficult to make ends meet.
+Snubbed in a social way, worsted in industrial competition,
+in individual cases they were even mobbed when
+they tried to express their anti-slavery sentiments at the
+polls. Some of the more nervous of the slave-owning
+population, too, were impelled to seek relief in the same
+movement from the constant dread of a negro insurrection.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The “fever and ague” was a dread visitant to very
+many engaged in turning over the virgin soil of the Mississippi
+Valley. In Oregon they would be free from this
+curse, so the “fever and ague,” with not a few, brought
+on the “Oregon fever.” The frequent recurrence of the
+awful scourge of the cholera in the towns of the middle
+west in the late forties and early fifties made many, in
+the hope of safety, more than willing to brave the dangers
+and hardships of the journey to Oregon. The
+warning signals of approaching old age no doubt were
+the deciding influence with some who set out as modern
+Ponce de Leons in search of fountains of renewed youth
+in Oregon.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_352a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>7.—“OLD BEDLAM”—SITE OF FORT LARAMIE.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_353'>353</span>Monetary disturbances had made business stagnant
+all over the country from 1837 to 1841. Many had gone
+to the wall, and had been compelled to see their homes
+turned over to others. The hard times were felt keenest
+in the then farthest west. They were so far inland that
+commercial intercourse with the rest of the world was
+almost totally cut off. What traffic they had was carried
+on by slow, laborious and expensive processes. Railroad
+building had not progressed so as to give a hope, hardly
+even an intimation, of its wonderful solution of the
+problem of maintaining a high civilization far inland.
+By going to Oregon they would, as they thought of it,
+again be on the open shores of the greater sea, within
+easy reach of the highway of the civilizations of the world.
+Not often, perhaps, were their motives formulated. These
+were allowed to rest in their minds in the most naive
+form of impulse. Col. Geo. B. Currey, in his “Occasional
+Address” before the Pioneer Association, in 1887, endorses
+the following as the best reason he ever got. It
+was, as he says, “from a genuine westerner,” who said
+he came “because the thing wasn’t fenced in, and nobody
+dared to keep him out.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The western border of Missouri was the natural jumping
+off place for the plunge into the wilderness. The
+settlements there had extended out like a plank beyond
+the line of the border elsewhere. The Ohio and the Missouri,
+with a short stretch of the Mississippi, had furnished
+the line of least resistance to the westward movement.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Each recurring spring tide from 1842 on witnessed the
+gathering of hosts at points on the Missouri, from Independence,
+near the confluence of the Kansas with the
+Missouri, north to what is now Council Bluffs. They
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_354'>354</span>were enamored with one idea, that of making homes in
+far away Oregon. This part of the border was also the
+starting line for the California and the Mormon migrations.
+The California movement was only sporadic until
+1849. This was seven years after the Oregon movement
+had become regular. The Mormons first struck across
+the continent in 1847.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Independence and Westport, just south of the Missouri’s
+great bend to the east, were the gateway of the
+earliest regular travel and traffic across the plains.
+These towns are now the suburbs of Kansas City. The
+Oregon migrations of 1842 and 1843 were formed exclusively
+in this vicinity. The old Santa Fe trail led by these
+settlements. From these points, too, the fur trading
+companies conducted expeditions annually to the upper
+waters of the Green River beyond the Rocky Mountains.
+The route was up the south side of the Kansas River
+some fifty miles, then turning to the right, the river was
+forded or ferried and a general northwest course adhered
+to, more direct for Oregon.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Beginning in 1844 Saint Joseph, then a thriving border
+town, situated on the river some fifty miles to the north
+of the first jumping off places, became an important fitting
+out place. Those who took steamboat passage to
+the border would naturally wish to make as much of the
+distance to Oregon in that way as possible. The vicinity
+of Saint Joseph seemed to furnish excellent facilities
+for securing the necessary ox teams and other needs for
+the trip. The Saint Joseph route, too, was a more direct
+one for those coming across the country from Iowa,
+Illinois and Indiana. After 1850 the Council Bluffs’
+route had the largest transcontinental travel. Weston
+and old Fort Kearney, the present Nebraska City, both
+on the Missouri, the former between Independence and
+Saint Joseph and the latter between Saint Joseph and
+Council Bluffs were minor points of departure. Smaller
+companies would cross the river wherever there was a
+ferry.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_354a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>8.—The Trail leading down to bottom lands of the Sweetwater.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_355'>355</span>Steamboating on the treacherous Missouri during
+those spring seasons while the tide of emigration was
+strongly westward set is given a lurid hue in the journals
+of the emigrants. The river route was the natural
+one for all coming from Ohio and the states to the east,
+also for many coming from Indiana.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>One entry made during this part of the trip in 1852
+reads as follows: “We have a bar on our boat, too, and
+that is visited about as often as any other place I know of.
+A son of temperance is a strange animal on this river, I
+can assure you. I think there are three or four sons on
+the boat, and the rest, about five hundred people, like a
+dram as often as I would like to drink a little water.&#160;*&#160;*&#160;* We get a little scared sometimes, for we hear
+of so many boats blowing up. There was another boat
+blown up at Lexington last Saturday and killed one hundred
+and fifty persons, the most of which were emigrants
+for California and Oregon. These things make us feel
+pretty squally, I can assure you, but it is not the way to
+be scared beforehand. So we boost our spirits up and
+push on.&#160;*&#160;*&#160;* Got to Lexington at 12 o’clock.
+There we found the wrecks of the boat that blew up five
+days ago. There were about two hundred people aboard,
+and the nearest we could learn about forty persons escaped
+unhurt, about forty were wounded and the balance
+were killed.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The man who kept this journal fitted out with a company
+at Saint Joseph. The company planned to drive
+up the east side of the Missouri and cross at old Fort
+Kearney. But, finding the roads too bad on that route,
+they made for a ferry ten miles north of Saint Joseph.
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_356'>356</span>I quote from his account of their experiences in getting
+across the river: “Went up to the ferry. Mr. H—‘s and
+Mr. S—’s wagons went over safe. Then Mr. S—’s family
+wagon and five yoke of cattle and all of Mr. S—’s family
+except two boys went on the ferry boat, and when they
+were about one-half way across the boat began to sink.
+They tried to drive the cattle off, but could not in time
+to save the boat from sinking. My family are still on
+the east side and I—S— with his teams. We witnessed
+the scene and could do nothing. Mrs. S— and the baby
+and next youngest were all under water, but the men of
+the boat got into the river and took them out, and the rest
+of the family got upon the wagon cover and saved themselves
+from drowning. A Mr. R— jumped overboard
+and thought he could swim to shore, but was drowned.
+He was one of Mr. S—’s hired hands. By the assistance
+of one of the other boats the rest were saved, but we
+thought from where we were that it was impossible that
+they could all be saved. Well, I paid a man fifteen cents
+for taking my wife and little children across in a skiff.
+They have no skiff at the ferry, but they have three good
+ferryboats that they work by hand. But the people here
+are as near heathens as they can be, and they go for shaving
+the emigrants, and then they spend it for whiskey
+and get drunk and roll in it. But we are all over on the
+west shore of the Missouri and in Indian territory.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>For those congregated hosts, encamped each early
+spring at different points along the banks of the Missouri,
+and intent as soon as grass had grown to be sufficient for
+their stock to sally forth on a two thousand mile passage
+to the Valley of the Willamette, the natural features of
+the continent pointed out just one general route to travel.
+This road, so clearly marked out by the configuration of
+the country for all using their mode of conveyance, lay
+up the Valley of the Platte; its tributary, the Sweetwater;
+through South Pass; across to the Valley of the
+Snake, the tributary of the Columbia; following down
+the course of the Snake to its great bend to the north;
+across to the Columbia; down the Columbia to their
+destination.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_356a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>9.—“INDEPENDENCE ROCK.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_357'>357</span>Those sections of the trail which constitute connecting
+links, as it were, to the grander portions, can be
+accounted for almost as clearly as the main sections can.
+Forage and water must be regularly available to those
+traveling with horses, mules or oxen. These must be
+found in great abundance by those who are driving considerable
+droves over long stretches of arid wastes. In
+summer months, on the unsettled parched plains, these
+resources were insured only along river or creek bottoms.
+So in striking out from Independence or Saint Joseph for
+the Valley of the Platte to the north, to economize in the
+distance traveled to the Oregon goal, and insure supplies
+of the prime requisites—good water and grass—their
+course would be such as to bring them to nightly camps
+on the banks of one of the numerous streams flowing
+into the Kansas. Passing one they would make for a
+higher point on the next to the west so as to keep in a
+more direct line for Oregon. Fuel, so necessary for preparing
+their meals, was in that region found only on the
+banks of these streams. Along the Platte, the North
+Fork, and the Sweetwater “buffalo chips” sufficed fairly
+well the need of fuel, except the night was wet. In
+moving from the South Pass to the basin of the Columbia,
+mountainous country made a direct route impracticable.
+In the detour to the southwest the valleys of
+the tributaries of the Upper Green were utilized, and
+particularly the most convenient northwest course of the
+Bear River. The details of the course in this detour
+were determined by the stepping stones, as it were, of
+water, grass and wood. These were found in that desert
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_358'>358</span>region, too, only in the river and creek bottoms. On
+issuing from the South Pass, then, the valleys of the
+Little Sandy, Big Sandy, and the Green itself, had to be
+followed, with such crossings from one to the other as
+were feasible, and were in the interests of economy in
+distance, until they struck a tributary coming in from
+the west, up which a passage could be made and the
+divide crossed, bringing them into the Valley of the
+Bear, a part of the Great Salt Lake Basin. The Valley
+of the Bear has a general northwest direction of some
+seventy-five miles from where they usually entered it.
+It was in every way a natural road to them to the point
+where it makes its bend to the south. At this bend was
+the first fork made in early times by the California trail’s
+turning off to the south. The divide at this point between
+the Basin of the Great Salt Lake and the Valley of
+the Snake was comparatively easy. The Snake River
+Valley, with its barren wastes, deep precipitous canyons,
+sharp lava rocks, made a trying portion of the route.
+There were several optional routes. None so acceptable
+as the Platte Valley had furnished. To follow the
+Snake in its long bend to the north would have led them
+far out of their way, so they took the available valleys
+of the Burnt and Powder rivers that led them farthest
+on their way towards the westerly flowing Umatilla, a
+tributary of the Columbia. They thus not only kept on
+in a comparatively direct line towards the Valley of the
+Willamette, but were also afforded water, grass and
+wood so necessary for further endurance of the now well
+fagged transcontinental wayfarers. But the Blue Mountains
+lay across this short cut and gave them their first
+real experience in climbing steep mountain sides. From
+the crest of these mountains the way to their goal lay
+down hill, except they chose a road across the Cascade
+Mountains. But whether they took the Barlow Road or
+dared the dangers of the gorge of the Columbia, the
+darkest, sternest trials were yet to be faced by the now
+weak and famished pioneers. They were, however,
+veterans now, and if succored with fresh supplies from
+settlers in the Willamette Valley and the strength of
+their cattle sufficed, no difficulties, however stupendous,
+could daunt them.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_358a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>10.—WEST END OF INDEPENDENCE ROCK.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_359'>359</span>On the whole, those home-seeking pioneers, as they
+lay encamped on the banks of the Missouri, could congratulate
+themselves that no specially stupendous natural
+obstacles had been interposed in that immense
+stretch that lay between them and their destination.
+There was only the interminableness of it, and the facts
+that it was to be entered upon while the fierce pelting
+spring storms of wind, rain and hail were liable to be of
+daily and nightly occurrence; that muddy sloughs would
+cause breakdowns, and freshet-swollen streams would be
+fraught with danger; that there would then be four
+months in which the fierce burning, blistering sun would
+have them at its mercy, and a dense, stifling dust would
+enhance their misery during the midday hours to the
+point of wretchedness, and no bathroom in the evening
+in which to find relief; that in the later and almost final
+days of the journey they would probably be exposed in
+approximate nakedness to the searching blasts of the
+oncoming winter, fortunate if they were not caught and
+held fast in mountain snows. Withal, they knew it would
+be a lumbering trudge with ox teams that would take
+them all summer and far into the autumn.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Each recurring spring season family or neighborhood
+groups who had determined to try their fortunes in Oregon
+would move out to one of the points of departure on
+the Missouri border. They would soon find themselves
+a part of a larger aggregation. Generally there was no
+more prearrangement for this meeting than there is
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_360'>360</span>among birds that flock for a migration. All who constituted
+the company from any one point had simply selected
+the same jumping off place.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>When the grass had grown abundant enough to furnish
+subsistence for their stock and draft animals, those
+who were ready with their outfit would begin to file out
+on the prairie trails converging upon the main Oregon
+road. After having traveled a day or two a halt was
+called by those in advance to await the coming up of
+others who proposed to undertake the same trip with
+themselves. The American instinct for organization
+would then assert itself, and there was occasion for its
+activity. They were in an Indian country. It was not
+wise to tempt the predatory propensities of the savages
+by too much straggling in their traveling or by too much
+unwariness in guarding their cattle and horses. In
+order to avoid molestation by prowling bands of Pawnees,
+Otoes, Cheyennes and Sioux, through whose ranges
+the trail east of the Rockies passed, it was necessary to
+travel in companies of some size and with such discipline
+as to be able to establish an effective guard at night and
+to make some demonstration of force when encountering
+considerable bands of Indian warriors.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>There was much economy, too, in bunching their
+several droves of loose stock into a single herd, in having
+a single lookout for selecting camping places, in the help
+that each would receive in case of accidents that all were
+liable to. Very essential, too, were organization and
+discipline when they came to a bank of a large stream
+across which their trail led. With the earlier migrations
+before printed guide books were available, organization
+was necessary to secure the services of a pilot.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_360a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>11.—“DEVIL’S GATE,”<br> <br> Showing dam for leading out an irrigating ditch.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>The first large migrations—those of 1843 and 1844,
+and even of 1845—erred in attempting to go as one
+compact body. The difficulty of securing adequate
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_361'>361</span>grazing was much enhanced as the company increased
+in size. From this fact and the further fact that in case
+of a hitch or accident of any kind in a large company,
+many would be delayed who could be of no service in
+getting things fixed up for a fresh start, it resulted that
+twenty or thirty wagons were the maximum limit to the
+size of companies that did not chafe under their organization.
+In later years six or eight wagons were a
+normal number for a company. Even in the earlier
+migrations, when the Upper Sweetwater was reached
+and the danger from the Indians was measurably past,
+the large companies would divide up into sections. The
+earlier migrations, too, took precautions that no person
+attached himself to the train unless he was furnished
+with such resources as to rations and transportation that
+he would not likely become a common burden.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The records of the migrations give ample corroboration
+to the truth of the adage, “Uneasy lies the head,
+etc.,” and yet these privately penned diaries disclose
+comparatively little bickering or unwholesome feeling,
+notwithstanding the severe strain human nature was
+under in the conditions of this four, five, and sometimes
+six months’ passage. Whenever conditions developed
+making advisable a division of the body into two or
+more, the division was made, and all was smooth again.
+The documentary material printed in this number of the
+Quarterly throws light on this phase of their experience
+and depicts the unique proceedings of the pioneers of
+1843 in effecting an organization.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The type of the transcontinental pioneer changed
+materially after the gold-seeker was in the majority.
+From 1849 on the diarist’s account is not devoid of the
+tragical. “These plains try and tell all the dark spots
+in men,” says Rev. Jesse Moreland in his journal of the
+trip from Tennessee to Oregon in 1852. He describes
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_362'>362</span>evidence of three executions for murder by hanging.
+He says: “As they had nothing to make a gallows out
+of, they took two wagon tongues, put them point to
+point and set a chair in the middle, and the man stood
+on the chair till the rope was tied, and then the chair
+was taken from under him. This is the third we have
+heard of being hanged.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Before 1849, while the Oregon movement still constituted
+the great part of the transcontinental travel, and
+a fierce commercial spirit was not yet dominant, the
+humanity of the pioneers seemed to stand remarkably
+well the strain incident to the experiences on the plains.
+Their journals do not reveal half the irritation and
+demoralization that the accounts of Parkman and of
+Coke do in companies that had vastly better outfits and
+were passing over the same routes.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The average company of immigrants in pulling through
+the miry sloughs of the Missouri bottom lands in early
+spring, with only partly broken ox teams, would break a
+wagon tongue, an axle tree, or a wheel, and suffer more
+or less exasperating delay. The fierce spring storms of
+rain and hail would play havoc with their tent coverings,
+and drench and pelt all who must stand outside to prevent
+the teams and stock from stampeding. These freshets
+would make impassable, for the time being, the numerous
+streams of the Kansas and Nebraska prairies. With
+the feeling that they must not over-exert their teams mere
+trifles even were allowed to delay them during the first
+four or five hundred miles of the journey.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Except they had some one like a Doctor Whitman
+with them to persistently urge them to “travel, travel,”
+as the only condition of getting through, there would be
+too much loitering in the early stages of the journey.
+Those who entered upon the trip in later years had more
+nearly an adequate sense of the vastness of the distance
+they must cover, and wasted no time in the initial stages.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_362a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>12.—Gap just south of Devil’s Gate—used for the Trail.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_363'>363</span>Especially the migration of 1849, and to some degree
+those of 1850 and 1852, were in deepest dismay over the
+presence among them of the dreadful scourge of cholera.
+The trail was lined in places along the south side of the
+Platte through the width of rods with mounds of freshly
+made graves after these migrations had passed.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The Hon. F. A. Chenoweth, in his “Occasional Address”
+before the Oregon Pioneer Association, in 1882,
+gives the following account of the ravages of the cholera
+among the trains of 1849:</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>“But the incidents of hardship which I have noticed
+were the merest trifles compared to the terrible calamity
+that marked with sadness and trailed in deep desolation
+over that ill-fated emigration. Very soon after the assembled
+throng took up its march over the plains the
+terrible wave of cholera struck them in a way to carry
+utmost terror and dismay into all parts of the moving
+mass.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The number of fatally stricken, after the smoke and
+dust were cleared away, was not numerically so frightful
+as appeared to those who were in the midst of it. But
+the name “cholera” in a multitude unorganized and
+unnumbered is like a leak in the bottom of a ship whose
+decks are thronged with passengers. The disturbed
+waters of the ocean, the angry elements of nature, when
+aroused to fury, are but faint illustrations of the terror-stricken
+mass of humanity, when in their midst are falling
+with great rapidity their comrades—the strong, the
+young and the old—the strength and vigor of youth
+melting away before an unseen foe. All this filled our
+ranks with the utmost terror and gloom. This terrible
+malady seemed to spend its most deadly force on the
+flat prairie east of and about Fort Laramie.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>One of the appalling effects of this disease was to
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_364'>364</span>cause the most devoted friends to desert, in case of
+attack, the fallen one. Many a stout and powerful man
+fought the last battle alone on the prairie. When the
+rough hand of the cholera was laid upon families they
+rarely had either the assistance or the sympathy of their
+neighbors or traveling companions.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>There was one feature mixed with all this terror that
+afforded some degree of relief, and that was that there
+was no case of lingering suffering. When attacked, a
+single day ordinarily ended the strife in death or recovery.
+A vast amount of wagons, with beds and blankets,
+were left by the roadside, which no man, not even an
+Indian, would approach or touch through fear of the
+unknown, unseen destroyer.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>While there were sad instances of comrades deserting
+comrades in this hour of extreme trial, I can not pass
+this point of my story without stating that there were
+many instances of heroic devotion to the sick, when such
+attention was regarded as almost equivalent to the offering
+up of the well and healthy for the mere hope of
+saving the sick and dying.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Not a few who had purposed to go to California that
+year turned off on the Oregon road to escape the contagion
+which the dense crowd seemed to afford this
+disease. Excepting in these cholera years and in 1847
+there were only infrequent cases of mountain fever and
+forms of dysentery that were developed in the alkali
+regions of the mountains.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_364a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>13.—“DEVIL’S GATE,” AS SEEN FROM ABOVE.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>A train of pioneers with sensible outfit emerging into
+the valley of the Platte in a season free from the cholera
+affliction could almost make it for a time a grand pleasure
+excursion. The heat was not yet oppressive, the roads
+good, the air exhilarating, the boundless expanse of green
+undulating prairie under crystal skies filled them with a
+sense of freedom. The exciting buffalo hunt was soon
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_365'>365</span>on and afforded them a welcome addition to a diet exceedingly
+unvaried at best. After the usual trudge during
+the day amid a panorama not yet monotonous the
+wagons would be driven to form approximately a circle—the
+end of the tongue or the front wheel of one lapping
+the hind wheel of the wagon in front, according as a more
+or less spacious corral was desired. The oxen would be
+unyoked and taken to water and then to the selected
+grazing spot. Fires would be kindled alongside each
+wagon outside of the corral for preparing the evening
+meal. After it was partaken of there would be an hour or
+two before darkness settled down upon them. Then the
+cattle would be brought within the corral, if there was
+the least apprehension of danger, and all except the
+guards for the first watch and possibly the matrons with
+multitudinous family cares would quickly surrender themselves
+to sleep. But congenial groups of young people
+would generally have a social hour or two. A blanket
+or extra wagon covering was thrown on the ground beside
+the wagon, and, when rain threatened, spread under the
+wagon. (Most were probably without tents other than
+the canvas tops of their wagons.) This with something
+for a covering sufficed for the beds of the young men and
+boys. In the morning at a given signal all were astir—and,
+if the cattle had not strayed during the night or
+been stampeded by Indians, breakfast over, everything
+was soon in readiness for falling in, each in his appointed
+place, and taking up the march that should bring them
+a day nearer to their Oregon home. But this idyllic succession
+of days very soon developed a very seamy side.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The sun’s rays became more and more scorching in
+their fierceness, the plains assumed a dull, leaden grayish
+aspect. The sagebrush and cactus took the place of
+the waving grass. The burning sand and stifling dust
+became deeper. These the west wind would raise into
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_366'>366</span>a cloud continuous from morning until night. This
+cloud of sand and dust particles beating against them at
+a terrific velocity they had to face all day. Soon eyes
+and lips were sore. To relieve the uncomfortable feeling
+that the parching air gave the lips they would unwisely
+be moistened and the soreness thus extended and
+deepened. Soon everything was obdurately begrimed.
+Rags then were in evidence. Shoes worn so as to no
+longer protect the feet. In the dry, scorching air the
+wagons would develop loose joints and lose their tires.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The monotony was relieved by lying by a day now
+and then during which the women would wash and mend
+the clothes and the men repair wagons and hunt buffalo,
+the meat of which would be jerked to furnish a supply
+after they had passed beyond the limits of the buffalo
+country. The buffalo did not commonly range west of
+the Lower Sweetwater.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The experiences which the buffalo gave them were
+not limited to the fine sport of hunting him and the
+delicious feasts his steaks afforded. His presence seemed
+to kindle into life the old ancestral wildness of the ox
+and the horse. Without the least warning some sedate
+member of a team would raise his head and give the old
+racial snort of freedom. This would kindle the same
+spark in every animal of the train, and away they
+would stampede with wagons, inmates and all, and not
+to be stopped until utterly exhausted. In these stampedes
+people would be run over, bones would be broken,
+oxen dehorned, their legs broken, and things demolished
+generally. The simple-minded pioneer with any tendency
+to personify could not help but believe that the
+devil had gotten into his hitherto always tractable
+animals. I quote a pioneer’s account of a stampede,
+though he does not ascribe it to the presence or influence
+of the buffalo, as is almost always done: “After passing
+Devil’s Gate, a beautiful stretch of road lay before us.
+All at once the teams broke into a run—something
+started them, no one seemed to know what. It was a
+regular stampede as to our team. Father and mother
+were walking; I was walking also, and some of the
+children were in the wagon. Away the team went, the
+hardest and the wildest running I ever saw. When
+they stopped and we caught up with them, we found the
+children were not hurt, but the two wheelers were down
+and one of them dead. It took our team a long time to
+get over the scare.”</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id001'>
+<img src='images/i_366a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>14.—“DEVIL’S GATE,” FROM SOME DISTANCE ABOVE.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_367'>367</span>There was still another condition in which the spirit
+of the buffalo made the pioneer show deference to it.
+This happened when a great horde of buffalo was on a
+stampede bearing down upon an emigrant train that
+happened to be passing across its trail. The moment
+was almost enough to bring dismay to the pioneer.
+Either the teams of the train were urged into something
+of a stampede to get out of line of the horde’s advance,
+or a corral was formed and volleys fired into the impending
+mass to divide it so as to leave the corral a safe
+island between a destructive flood rolling by on either
+hand.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Distressing accidents must almost of necessity befall
+them from their carrying their loaded guns commingled
+with household goods on their wagons. It is not
+strange that at least half of the journals should have
+records of fatalities thus caused. Under the law of
+mathematical probabilities, with the frequent occasion
+there was to remove gun or blanket thus intermixed,
+while the members of the family were standing around
+the wagon, accidents must occur. The small boy of the
+family during this four or five months’ trip had very
+many occasions to clamber out of and into the wagon
+while it was in motion. He, too, would come to grief
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_368'>368</span>with a broken leg. Any ordinary fracture, however,
+even though there were no surgeon at hand, would be
+attended to, so that no deformity resulted. If the case
+was one seeming to require an amputation “a butcher
+knife and an old dull hand saw” were improvised as
+surgical instruments. But I have not found that a
+patient survived such an operation and got well. The
+other great epochal events of family life, marriages and
+births, were not infrequent on the trail, and seemed to
+cause little distraction.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The experiences of the pioneers in crossing the rivers
+in the line of the trail were very diverse. It is reported
+of one of the migrations that they were not compelled
+to ferry until they reached the Des Chutes in Oregon.
+But the migration of 1844 had a serious time even with
+the Black Vermillion and Big Blue, tributaries of the
+Kansas. Where logs were available they were hollowed
+out and catamaran rafts made so as to fit the wheels of a
+wagon. Sometimes the best wagon boxes would be
+selected and caulked and used as flatboats. Where buffalo
+skins were plentiful they would be stretched around
+the wagon box to make it water-tight. In later stages
+of the journey, after their teams were more reliable, it
+was a common practice to raise the wagon beds several
+inches above the bolsters, if the depth of the stream
+required it, couple several teams into a train with the
+most reliable in front on a lead-rope, and drivers along
+the down-stream side of the other teams. They would
+then ford as trains. After the rush in 1849 ferries were
+established at the more important crossings, whose owners
+reaped rich harvests.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_368a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>15.—The deeply worn Trail along the Sweetwater.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>Their route had no rich diversity of scenic grandeur.
+There are most impressive natural features along the
+line of it, but with their slow mode of travel one phase
+became exceedingly monotonous before another was
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_369'>369</span>reached. There were the vastness and solitude of the
+prairies and plains, the transparency of the atmosphere
+that gave magnificent sweep of view. Along the North
+Fork of the Platte stood great sentinel rocks with interesting
+sculptured proportions. Among these are the
+Lone or Court House Rock, Chimney Rock, Castle Rock,
+Steamboat Rock, and Scott’s Bluff. Farther along on
+their journey they come to Independence Rock and
+Devil’s Gate on the Sweetwater, one a huge basaltic
+mound upon which with tar or with iron chisels they
+would register their names; the other a most unique
+breach in a granitic range with sides two hundred feet
+high, through which the Sweetwater flows. A week or
+two later they would have the exhilarating sense of standing
+on the backbone of the continent in South Pass, with
+the towering Wind River Mountains to their right and
+the Oregon buttes to their left. A few miles on they
+would drink from the Pacific springs and know they
+were in what was then called Oregon. Scenery most
+unique was still before them on their way. Some of it,
+like the panorama from the divide between the Green
+and the Bear rivers and the Soda Springs, they would
+enjoy. But their march from the South Pass on was a
+retreat. Oxen would fall helpless in their yokes, wagons
+would become rickety beyond repair. The trail was
+strewn with wreckage, and the stench from the dead
+cattle was appalling. The watering places along the
+Snake were contaminated by the stock that had perished.
+As soon as they reached the Blue Mountains their stock
+was safe from starvation, but the exertion required of
+their way-worn and weak oxen on the steep grades now
+before them was the last straw often that these creatures
+now could not bear. They could not let them recruit;
+the season was far advanced towards winter; they must
+press on.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_370'>370</span>Data for determining the numbers that came across
+the plains to Oregon during the successive years are as
+yet very unsatisfactory. The estimates given below for
+1842 and 1843 are well founded, but the others, especially
+from 1847 on, are from no very tangible basis.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>At the close of 1841 the Americans in Oregon numbered
+possibly four hundred.</p>
+
+<table class='table1'>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1842 estimated from</td>
+ <td class='c012'>105 to</td>
+ <td class='c005'>137</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1843 estimated from</td>
+ <td class='c012'>875 to</td>
+ <td class='c005'>1,000</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1844 estimated about</td>
+ <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c005'>700</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1845 estimated about</td>
+ <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c005'>3,000</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1846 estimated about</td>
+ <td class='c012'>&#160;</td>
+ <td class='c005'>1,350</td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class='c009'>The above figures are taken quite closely from those
+given by Elwood Evans in his address before the Pioneer
+Association in 1877. I make the immigration of 1844,
+however, seven hundred, instead of four hundred and
+seventy-five, as he gives it.</p>
+
+<table class='table1'>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1847 between</td>
+ <td class='c005'>4,000 and 5,000</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1848 about</td>
+ <td class='c005'>700</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1849 about</td>
+ <td class='c005'>400</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1850 about</td>
+ <td class='c005'>2,000</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1851 about</td>
+ <td class='c005'>1,500</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1852 about</td>
+ <td class='c005'>2,500</td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class='c009'>No doubt this one summer on the plains was an ordeal
+under which some sensitive natures were strained
+and weakened for life. It may be, too, that living for five
+or six months, as families, on the simplest, barest necessities
+of life, fixed standards of living lower than they otherwise
+would have been. The effect, however, on strong,
+resourceful natures of these months on the plains could
+not have been other than salutary. The pioneers, when
+they started, were most distinctively American in their
+characteristics. As such they needed to be socialized.
+No better school could have been devised than the organization
+and regimen of the trip across the plains for socializing
+their natures.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>F. G. YOUNG.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_370a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>16.—The “Three Crossings” of the Sweetwater.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_371'>371</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>A DAY WITH THE COW COLUMN IN 1843.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+ <div>By JESSE APPLEGATE.</div>
+ <div class='c002'>(Read before the Oregon Pioneer Association in 1876; reprinted from transactions of that society.)</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c011'>The migration of a large body of men, women and
+children across the continent to Oregon was, in the year
+1843, strictly an experiment; not only in respect to the
+members, but to the outfit of the migrating party. Before
+that date, two or three missionaries had performed the
+journey on horseback, driving a few cows with them,
+three or four wagons drawn by oxen had reached Fort
+Hall, on Snake River, but it was the honest opinion of
+the most of those who had traveled the route down
+Snake River, that no large number of cattle could be
+subsisted on its scanty pasturage, or wagons taken over
+a country so rugged and mountainous.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The emigrants were also assured that the Sioux would
+be much opposed to the passage of so large a body through
+their country, and would probably resist it on account of
+the emigrants’ destroying and frightening away the buffaloes,
+which were then diminishing in numbers.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The migrating body numbered over one thousand
+souls, with about one hundred and twenty wagons,
+drawn by six-ox teams, averaging about six yokes to the
+team, and several thousand loose horses and cattle.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The emigrants first organized and attempted to travel
+in one body, but it was soon found that no progress
+could be made with a body so cumbrous, and as yet so
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_372'>372</span>averse to all discipline. And at the crossing of the “Big
+Blue” it divided into two columns, which traveled in
+supporting distance of each other as far as Independence
+Rock on the Sweetwater.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>From this point, all danger from Indians being over,
+the emigrants separated into small parties better suited
+to the narrow mountain paths and small pastures in
+their front.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Before the division on the Blue River there was some
+just cause for discontent in respect to loose cattle. Some
+of the emigrants had only their teams, while others had
+large herds in addition, which must share the pasture
+and be guarded and driven by the whole body. This
+discontent had its effect in the division on the Blue.
+Those not encumbered with or having but few loose
+cattle attached themselves to the light column; those
+having more than four or five cows had of necessity to
+join the heavy or cow column. Hence the cow column,
+being much larger than the other and much encumbered
+with its large herds, had to use greater exertion and observe
+a more rigid discipline to keep pace with the more
+agile consort. It is with the cow column that I propose
+to journey with the reader for a single day.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>It is four o’clock A. M.; the sentinels on duty have
+discharged their rifles—the signal that the hours of sleep
+are over—and every wagon and tent is pouring forth its
+night tenants, and slow-kindling smokes begin largely
+to rise and float away in the morning air. Sixty men
+start from the corral, spreading as they make through
+the vast herd of cattle and horses that make a semicircle
+around the encampment, the most distant perhaps two
+miles away.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_372a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>17.—“Oregon Buttes,”—taken from South Pass.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>The herders pass to the extreme verge and carefully
+examine for trails beyond, to see that none of the animals
+have strayed or been stolen during the night. This
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_373'>373</span>morning no trails led beyond the outside animals in
+sight, and by 5 o’clock the herders begin to contract the
+great, moving circle, and the well-trained animals move
+slowly towards camp, clipping here and there a thistle or
+a tempting bunch of grass on the way. In about an
+hour five thousand animals are close up to the encampment,
+and the teamsters are busy selecting their teams
+and driving them inside the corral to be yoked. The corral
+is a circle one hundred yards deep, formed with
+wagons connected strongly with each other; the wagon
+in the rear being connected with the wagon in front by
+its tongue and ox chains. It is a strong barrier that the
+most vicious ox cannot break, and in case of an attack of
+the Sioux would be no contemptible intrenchment.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>From 6 to 7 o’clock is a busy time; breakfast is to be
+eaten, the tents struck, the wagons loaded and the teams
+yoked and brought up in readiness to be attached to their
+respective wagons. All know when, at 7 o’clock, the
+signal to march sounds, that those not ready to take
+their proper places in the line of march must fall into
+the dusty rear for the day.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>There are sixty wagons. They have been divided
+into fifteen divisions or platoons of four wagons each,
+and each platoon is entitled to lead in its turn. The
+leading platoon today will be the rear one tomorrow,
+and will bring up the rear unless some teamster, through
+indolence or negligence, has lost his place in the line, and
+is condemned to that uncomfortable post. It is within
+ten minutes of seven; the corral but now a strong barricade
+is everywhere broken, the teams being attached to
+the wagons. The women and children have taken their
+places in them. The pilot (a borderer who has passed
+his life on the verge of civilization and has been chosen
+to the post of leader from his knowledge of the savage
+and his experience in travel through roadless wastes),
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_374'>374</span>stands ready, in the midst of his pioneers and aids, to
+mount and lead the way. Ten or fifteen young men, not
+today on duty, form another cluster. They are ready to
+start on a buffalo hunt, are well mounted and well armed,
+as they need be, for the unfriendly Sioux have driven the
+buffalo out of the Platte, and the hunters must ride fifteen
+or twenty miles to reach them. The cow drivers are
+hastening, as they get ready, to the rear of their charge,
+to collect and prepare them for the day’s march.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>It is on the stroke of seven; the rush to and fro, the
+cracking of whips, the loud command to oxen, and what
+seemed to be the inextricable confusion of the last ten
+minutes has ceased. Fortunately every one has been
+found and every teamster is at his post. The clear notes
+of a trumpet sound in the front; the pilot and his guards
+mount their horses; the leading divisions of the wagons
+move out of the encampment, and take up the line of
+march; the rest fall into their places with the precision
+of clock work, until the spot so lately full of life sinks
+back into that solitude that seems to reign over the broad
+plain and rushing river as the caravan draws its lazy
+length towards the distant El Dorado. It is with the
+hunters we shall briskly canter towards the bold but
+smooth and grassy bluffs that bound the broad valley,
+for we are not yet in sight of the grander but less beautiful
+scenery (of Chimney Rock, Court House and other
+bluffs, so nearly resembling giant castles and palaces),
+made by the passage of the Platte through the highlands
+near Laramie. We have been traveling briskly for more
+than an hour. We have reached the top of the bluff, and
+now have turned to view the wonderful panorama spread
+before us. To those who have not been on the Platte,
+my powers of description are wholly inadequate to convey
+an idea of the vast extent and grandeur of the picture,
+and the rare beauty and distinctness of the detail. No
+haze or fog obscures objects in the pure and transparent
+atmosphere of this lofty region. To those accustomed
+only to the murky air of the seaboard, no correct judgment
+of distance can be formed by sight, and objects
+which they think they can reach in a two hours’ walk
+may be a day’s travel away; and though the evening
+air is a better conductor of sound, on the high plain during
+the day the report of the loudest rifle sounds little
+louder than the bursting of a cap; and while the report
+can be heard but a few hundred yards, the smoke of the
+discharge may be seen for miles. So extended is the
+view from the bluff on which the hunters stand, that
+the broad river glowing under the morning sun like a
+sheet of silver, and the broader emerald valley that
+borders it, stretch away in the distance until they narrow
+at almost two points in the horizon, and when first
+seen, the vast pile of the Wind River Mountains though
+hundreds of miles away, looks clear and distinct as a
+white cottage on the plain.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_374a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>18.—“STEAMBOAT SPRING” ON THE BANKS OF THE BEAR RIVER.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_375'>375</span>We are full six miles away from the line of march;
+though everything is dwarfed by distance, it is seen distinctly.
+The caravan has been about two hours in motion
+and is now as widely extended as a prudent regard
+for safety will permit. First, near the bank of the shining
+river is a company of horsemen; they seem to have
+found an obstruction, for the main body has halted while
+three or four ride rapidly along the bank of the creek or
+slough. They are hunting a favorable crossing for the
+wagons; while we look they have succeeded; it has
+apparently required no work to make it passable, for all
+but one of the party have passed on, and he has raised
+a flag, no doubt a signal to the wagons to steer their
+course to where he stands. The leading teamster sees
+him, though he is yet two miles off, and steers his course
+directly towards him, all the wagons following in his
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_376'>376</span>track. They (the wagons) form a line three-quarters of
+a mile in length; some of the teamsters ride upon the
+front of their wagons, some march beside their teams;
+scattered along the line companies of women are taking
+exercise on foot; they gather bouquets of rare and
+beautiful flowers that line the way; near them stalks a
+stately greyhound, or an Irish wolf dog, apparently
+proud of keeping watch and ward over his master’s wife
+and children. Next comes a band of horses; two or
+three men or boys follow them, the docile and sagacious
+animals scarce needing this attention, for they have
+learned to follow in the rear of the wagons, and know
+that at noon they will be allowed to graze and rest.
+Their knowledge of time seems as accurate as of the
+place they are to occupy in the line, and even a full-blown
+thistle will scarce tempt them to straggle or halt
+until the dinner hour has arrived. Not so with the
+large herd of horned beasts that bring up the rear;
+lazy, selfish and unsocial, it has been a task to get them
+in motion, the strong always ready to domineer over the
+weak, halt in the front and forbid the weak to pass
+them. They seem to move only in the fear of the
+driver’s whip; though in the morning, full to repletion,
+they have not been driven an hour before their hunger
+and thirst seem to indicate a fast of days’ duration.
+Through all the long day their greed is never satisfied,
+nor their thirst quenched, nor is there a moment of
+relaxation of the tedious and vexatious labors of their
+drivers, although to all others the march furnishes some
+season of relaxation or enjoyment. For the cow drivers
+there is none.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>But from the standpoint of the hunters, the vexations
+are not apparent; the crack of whips and loud objurgation
+are lost in the distance. Nothing of the moving
+panorama, smooth and orderly as it appears, has more
+attractions for the eye than that vast square column in
+which all colors are mingled, moving here slowly and
+there briskly, as impelled by horsemen riding furiously
+in front and rear.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_376a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>19.—“AMERICAN FALLS.”<br> <br> Railroad bridge of the “Oregon Short Line.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_377'>377</span>But the picture in its grandeur, its wonderful mingling
+of colors and distinctness of detail, is forgotten in
+contemplation of the singular people who give it life and
+animation. No other race of men with the means at
+their command would undertake so great a journey, none
+save these could successfully perform it, with no previous
+preparation, relying only on the fertility of their own invention
+to devise the means to overcome each danger and
+difficulty as it arose. They have undertaken to perform
+with slow-moving oxen a journey of two thousand miles.
+The way lies over trackless wastes, wide and deep rivers,
+ragged and lofty mountains, and is beset with hostile
+savages. Yet, whether it were a deep river with no tree
+upon its banks, a rugged defile where even a loose horse
+could not pass, a hill too steep for him to climb, or a
+threatened attack of an enemy, they are always found
+ready and equal to the occasion, and always conquerors.
+May we not call them men of destiny? They are people
+changed in no essential particulars from their ancestors,
+who have followed closely on the footsteps of the receding
+savage, from the Atlantic seaboard to the great Valley
+of the Mississippi.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>But while we have been gazing at the picture in the
+valley, the hunters have been examining the high plain
+in the other direction. Some dark moving objects have
+been discovered in the distance, and all are closely watching
+them to discover what they are, for in the atmosphere
+of the plains a flock of crows marching miles away, or a
+band of buffaloes or Indians at ten times the distance
+look alike, and many ludicrous mistakes occur. But
+these are buffaloes, for two have struck their heads together
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_378'>378</span>and are, alternately, pushing each other back.
+The hunters mount and away in pursuit, and I, a poor
+cow-driver, must hurry back to my daily toil, and take
+a scolding from my fellow herders for so long playing
+truant.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>The pilot, by measuring the ground and timing the
+speed of the wagons and the walk of his horses, has determined
+the rate of each, so as to enable him to select
+the nooning place, as nearly as the requisite grass and
+water can be had at the end of five hours’ travel of the
+wagons. Today, the ground being favorable, little time
+has been lost in preparing the road, so that he and his
+pioneers are at the nooning place an hour in advance of
+the wagons, which time is spent in preparing convenient
+watering places for the animals, and digging little wells
+near the bank of the Platte, as the teams are not unyoked,
+but simply turned loose from the wagons, a corral is not
+formed at noon, but the wagons are drawn up in columns,
+four abreast, the leading wagon of each platoon on the
+left, the platoons being formed with that in view. This
+brings friends together at noon as well as at night.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_378a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>20.—Near summit of Blue Mountains—Meacham Station of O. R. &#38; N. R. R. on the Trail, and site of “Lee Encampment.”</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>Today an extra session of the council is being held,
+to settle a dispute that does not admit of delay, between
+a proprietor and a young man who has undertaken to do
+a man’s service on the journey for bed and board. Many
+such engagements exist, and much interest is taken in
+the manner in which this high court, from which there
+is no appeal, will define the rights of each party in such
+engagements. The council was a high court in the most
+exalted sense. It was a senate composed of the ablest
+and most respected fathers of the emigration. It exercised
+both legislative and judicial powers, and its laws
+and decisions proved it equal and worthy of the high
+trust reposed in it. Its sessions were usually held on
+days when the caravan was not moving. It first took the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_379'>379</span>state of the little commonwealth into consideration; revised
+or repealed rules defective or obsolete, and enacted
+such others as the exigencies seemed to require. The
+common weal being cared for, it next resolved itself into
+a court to hear and settle private disputes and grievances.
+The offender and the aggrieved appeared before
+it; witnesses were examined, and the parties were heard
+by themselves and sometimes by counsel. The judges
+being thus made fully acquainted with the case, and being
+in no way influenced or cramped by technicalities,
+decided all cases according to their merits. There was
+but little use for lawyers before this court, for no plea
+was entertained which was calculated to hinder or defeat
+the ends of justice. Many of these judges have since
+won honors in higher spheres. They have aided to establish
+on the broad basis of right and universal liberty two
+pillars of our great Republic in the Occident. Some of
+the young men who appeared before them as advocates
+have themselves sat upon the highest judicial tribunals,
+commanded armies, been governors of states and taken
+high position in the senate of the nation.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>It is now one o’clock; the bugle has sounded and the
+caravan has resumed its westward journey. It is in the
+same order, but the evening is far less animated than
+the morning march; a drowsiness has fallen apparently
+on man and beast; teamsters drop asleep on their
+perches and even when walking by their teams, and the
+words of command are now addressed to the slowly
+creeping oxen in the soft tenor of women or the piping
+treble of children, while the snores of the teamsters
+make a droning accompaniment. But a little incident
+breaks the monotony of the march. An emigrant’s wife,
+whose state of health has caused Doctor Whitman to
+travel near the wagon for the day, is now taken with
+violent illness. The Doctor has had the wagon driven
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_380'>380</span>out of the line, a tent pitched and a fire kindled. Many
+conjectures are hazarded in regard to this mysterious
+proceeding, and as to why this lone wagon is to be left
+behind. And we too must leave it, hasten to the front
+and note the proceedings, for the sun is now getting low
+in the west and at length the painstaking pilot is standing
+ready to conduct the train in the circle which he has
+previously measured and marked out, which is to form
+the invariable fortification for the night. The leading
+wagons follow him so nearly around the circle that but
+a wagon length separates them. Each wagon follows
+in its track, the rear closing on the front, until its tongue
+and ox chains will perfectly reach from one to the other,
+and so accurate the measure and perfect the practice,
+that the hindmost wagon of the train always precisely
+closes the gateway, as each wagon is brought into position.
+It is dropped from its team (the teams being inside
+the circle), the team unyoked and the yokes and
+chains are used to connect the wagon strongly with that
+in its front. Within ten minutes from the time the leading
+wagon halted, the barricade is formed, the teams
+unyoked and driven out to pasture. Every one is busy
+preparing fires of buffalo chips to cook the evening
+meal, pitching tents and otherwise preparing for the
+night. There are anxious watchers for the absent wagon,
+for there are many matrons who may be afflicted
+like its inmate before the journey is over; and they fear
+the strange and startling practice of this Oregon doctor
+will be dangerous. But as the sun goes down the absent
+wagon rolls into camp, the bright, speaking face
+and cheery look of the doctor, who rides in advance, declare
+without words that all is well, and both mother
+and child are comfortable. I would fain now and here
+pay a passing tribute to that noble and devoted man,
+Doctor Whitman. I will obtrude no other name upon
+the reader, nor would I his were he of our party or even
+living, but his stay with us was transient, though the
+good he did was permanent, and he has long since died
+at his post.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_380a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>21.—Falls of the Willamette—the objective point of the pioneers.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_381'>381</span>From the time he joined us on the Platte until he
+left us at Fort Hall, his great experience and indomitable
+energy were of priceless value to the migrating
+column. His constant advice, which we knew was based
+upon a knowledge of the road before us, was, “Travel,
+<i>travel</i>, <span class='fss'>TRAVEL</span>; nothing else will take you to the end of
+your journey; nothing is wise that does not help you
+along; nothing is good for you that causes a moment’s
+delay.” His great authority as a physician and complete
+success in the case above referred to, saved us
+many prolonged and perhaps ruinous delays from similar
+causes, and it is no disparagement to others to say
+that to no other individual are the emigrants of 1843 so
+much indebted for the successful conclusion of their
+journey as to Dr. Marcus Whitman.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>All able to bear arms in the party have been formed
+into three companies, and each of these into four watches;
+every third night it is the duty of one of these companies
+to keep watch and ward over the camp, and it is so arranged
+that each watch takes its turn of guard duty
+through the different watches of the night. Those forming
+the first watch tonight will be second on duty, then
+third and fourth, which brings them through all the
+watches of the night. They begin at 8 o’clock P. M.,
+and end at 4 o’clock A. M.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>It is not yet 8 o’clock when the first watch is to be
+set; the evening meal is just over, and the corral now
+free from the intrusion of cattle or horses, groups of
+children are scattered over it. The larger are taking a
+game of romps; “the wee toddling things” are being
+taught that great achievement that distinguishes man
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_382'>382</span>from the lower animals. Before a tent near the river a
+violin makes lively music, and some youths and maidens
+have improvised a dance upon the green; in another
+quarter a flute gives its mellow and melancholy notes to
+the still night air, which, as they float away over the
+quiet river, seem a lament for the past rather than a
+hope for the future. It has been a prosperous day;
+more than twenty miles have been accomplished of the
+great journey. The encampment is a good one; one of
+the causes that threatened much future delay has just
+been removed by the skill and energy of that “good
+angel” of the emigrants, Doctor Whitman, and it has
+lifted a load from the hearts of the elders. Many of
+these are assembled around the good doctor at the tent
+of the pilot (which is his home for the time being), and
+are giving grave attention to his wise and energetic
+counsel. The care-worn pilot sits aloof, quietly smoking
+his pipe, for he knows the brave doctor is “strengthening
+his hands.”</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_382a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>22.—The Union Pacific Building, Omaha,—site of one of the “jumping off” points for Oregon.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>But time passes; the watch is set for the night; the
+council of old men has been broken up, and each has returned
+to his own quarter; the flute has whispered its
+last lament to the deepening night; the violin is silent,
+and the dancers have dispersed; enamored youth have
+whispered a tender “good night” in the ear of blushing
+maidens, or stolen a kiss from the lips of some future
+bride—for Cupid here, as elsewhere, has been busy bringing
+together congenial hearts, and among these simple
+people he alone is consulted in forming the marriage tie.
+Even the doctor and the pilot have finished their confidential
+interview and have separated for the night. All
+is hushed and repose from the fatigues of the day, save
+the vigilant guard and the wakeful leader, who still has
+cares upon his mind that forbid sleep. He hears the 10
+o’clock relief taking post and the “all well” report of the
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_383'>383</span>returned guard; the night deepens, yet he seeks not the
+needed repose. At length a sentinel hurries to him with
+the welcome report that a party is approaching—as yet
+too far away for its character to be determined, and he
+instantly hurries out in the direction in which it was
+seen. This he does both from inclination and duty, for
+in times past the camp had been unnecessarily alarmed
+by timid or inexperienced sentinels, causing much confusion
+and fright amongst women and children, and it
+had been a rule that all extraordinary incidents of the
+night should be reported directly to the pilot, who alone
+had the authority to call out the military strength of the
+column, or of so much of it as was in his judgment necessary
+to prevent a stampede or repel an enemy. Tonight
+he is at no loss to determine that the approaching party
+are our missing hunters, and that they have met with
+success, and he only waits until by some further signal
+he can know that no ill has happened to them. This is
+not long wanting. He does not even await their arrival,
+but the last care of the day being removed, and the last
+duty performed, he too seeks the rest that will enable
+him to go through the same routine tomorrow. But here
+I leave him, for my task is also done, and unlike his, it
+is to be repeated no more.</p>
+
+<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Note—A Correction</span>—Col. George B. Currey was the author of
+“The Tribute to the Ox Whip,” not Col. George L. Curry, as printed
+in this number.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_384'>384</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>COL. GEORGE L. CURRY’S TRIBUTE TO THE OX WHIP.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+ <div>(Reprinted from Transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Association.)</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c011'>My task is to call from dust and dark forgetfulness
+that advance banner of Americanism and progress—the
+ox whip. Its crack was the command “Forward to the
+nation.” Its sharp, keen accent proclaimed that obstacles
+to prayers must be overcome. It waved aloft on the
+prairies of the “Old West,” and pointing to the new, a
+vast throng took up the westward march, which, keeping
+step to the music of destiny, dashed across the broad
+Missouri, rolled a living tide up the grassy slope of the
+Platte, scaled the imperial heights of the Rocky Mountains,
+and with “the tread of a giant and shout of a conquerer”
+defied the heat, dust, thirst and hunger, the
+desert heart of the continent, leaped the Blue Mountains,
+paused but quailed not on the banks of the deep,
+wide Columbia, where again the potential crack is heard
+and the mighty, “rock-ribbed” walls of the Cascades are
+stormed, and as the line rolls bravely over the giddy summit
+the exultant driver gives a grand triumphant crack
+into the stolid face of grand old Hood, the storm-clad
+sentinel of the mountain fastness. The people have
+reached their goal. The spell is broken. The errand has
+lost its magic, its mission has been accomplished. A
+state, with freedom’s diadem effulgent on its brow salutes
+the eye, and dipping its young hand in the Pacific completes
+the baptism of human liberty and proclaims an
+“ocean-bound republic.” All hail and honor to the ox
+whip, the symbol of the grand, achieving force of its
+age.</p>
+
+<div class='figcenter id002'>
+<img src='images/i_384a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'>
+<div class='ic003'>
+<p>23.—Street, Oregon City,—about where the pioneers broke ranks.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_385'>385</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>THE CAMP FIRES OF THE PIONEERS.</h2>
+</div>
+<h3 class='c013'><i>VINCERE EST VIVERE!</i></h3>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+ <div>By SAM L. SIMPSON.</div>
+ <div class='c002'>[Reprinted from Transactions of Pioneer Association.]</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c014'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Striking at ease his epic lyre,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The laureled Mantuan has sung</div>
+ <div class='line'>Beleagured Troy’s illustrious pyre—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The daring sail Æneas flung</div>
+ <div class='line'>To wayward gales, the voyage long</div>
+ <div class='line'>That tracks the silver wave of song;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Until the worn and weary oar</div>
+ <div class='line'>Has kissed the far Lavinian shore;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The Argo’s classic pennon streams</div>
+ <div class='line'>Along sweet horizons of dreams,—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The Mayflower has furled her wings,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And restfully at anchor swings—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Columbia chants to columned seas</div>
+ <div class='line'>The triumph of the Genoese,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And yet, stout hearts, no fitting meed</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of panegyric crowns your deed</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>From which a stately empire springs.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>The minions of a perfumed age</div>
+ <div class='line'>Already crowd upon the stage,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The massive manhood of the past</div>
+ <div class='line'>In many a graceful mould is cast;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And yet with calm and kindly eyes</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>You view the feast for others spread,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And hail the blue benignant skies</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Resigned and grandly comforted.</div>
+ <div class='line'>It was for this you broke the way</div>
+ <div class='line'>Before the sunset gates of day—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>For this, with godlike faith endued,</div>
+ <div class='line'>You scaled the misty crags of fate,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And, with resounding labors, hewed</div>
+ <div class='line'>The Doric pillars of the state.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>There is no task for you to do—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Your tents are furled, the bugle blown—</div>
+ <div class='line'>But yet another day, and you</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Will live in clustered fame alone.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The fir will chant a song of rue,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The pine will drop a wreath, may be,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And o’er the dim Cascades the stars</div>
+ <div class='line'>Will nightly roll the gleaming cars</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>You followed well from sea to sea.</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Before your scarred battalion’s wheel</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Into the mystic realm of shade,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>And on your grizzled brows the seal</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of mystery is softly laid,</div>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_386'>386</span>Once more around your old campfires,</div>
+ <div class='line'>That smoulder like fulfilled desires,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Rehearse the story of your toils</div>
+ <div class='line'>Display the hero crowned with spoils—</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>The glimmer of triumphant steel,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Beneath the garland and the braid.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>O, further than the legions bore</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The eagles of Imperial Rome—</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Three thousand miles, a weary march,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>You followed Hesper’s golden torch,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Until it stooped on this green shore,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And lit the rosy fires of home.</div>
+ <div class='line'>It was a solemn morn you turned</div>
+ <div class='line'>And quenched the sacred flames that burned</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>On hearths endeared for years and years;</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>It seemed your very souls grew dark</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>With those sweet fires—the latest spark</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Was drowned in bitter, bitter tears.</div>
+ <div class='line'>A softer, sweeter sunlight wrapt</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The forms of all familiar things,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And as each cord of feeling snapt</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Another angel furled its wings:</div>
+ <div class='line'>The lights and shadows in the lane,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The oak beside the foot-worn stile</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Whose wheeling shades a weary while</div>
+ <div class='line'>Had told the hours of joy and pain—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The vine that clambered o’er the door</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And many a purple cluster bore—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The vestal flowers of household love—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The sloping roof that wore the stain</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of summer sun and winter rain,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And smoky chimney tops above—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The beauty of the orchard trees,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Bedecked with blossoms, glad with bees—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The brook that all the livelong day</div>
+ <div class='line'>Had many things to sing and say—</div>
+ <div class='line'>All these upon your vision dwell</div>
+ <div class='line'>And weave the sorrow of farewell.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>And now the last good-bye is said—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Good-bye! the living and the dead</div>
+ <div class='line'>In those sad words together speak,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And all your chosen ways are bleak!</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Forward! The cracking lashes send</div>
+ <div class='line'>A thrill of action down the train,—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Their brawny necks the oxen bend</div>
+ <div class='line'>With creaking yoke and clanking chain;</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The horsemen gallop down the line,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And swerve around the lowing kine</div>
+ <div class='line'>That straggle loosely on the plain—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And lift glad hands to babes that laugh</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And dash the buttercups like chaff.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Hurrah! the skies are jewel blue—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In tasseled green and braided gold</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The robes of April are enrolled,</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_387'>387</span>And hopes are high and hearts are true!</div>
+ <div class='line'>Hurrah! hurrah! the bold, the free—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The sudden sweep of ecstacy</div>
+ <div class='line'>That lifts the soul on wings of fire,</div>
+ <div class='line'>When fears consume and doubts expire,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And life, in one red torrent, leaps</div>
+ <div class='line'>To join the march of boundless deeps!</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>And now the sun is dropping down</div>
+ <div class='line'>And lights and shadows, red and brown</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Are weaving sunset’s purple spell:</div>
+ <div class='line'>The teams are freed, the fires are made,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like scarlet night flow’rs in the shade,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And pleasant groups before, between,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Are thronging in the fitful sheen—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The day is done, and “all is well.”</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>So pass the days, so fall the nights;</div>
+ <div class='line'>A banquet of renewed delights;</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The old horizons lift and pass</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>In magic changes like a dream,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And in the heavens’ azure glass</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Tomorrow’s jasper arches gleam—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>With many a vale and mountain mass,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>And many a singing, shining stream.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The post is dead and daisied now—</div>
+ <div class='line'>In shadow fades from heart and brow—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The air is incense, and the breeze</div>
+ <div class='line'>Is sweet with siren melodies,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And all the castled hills before</div>
+ <div class='line'>In blooming vistas sweep and soar</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like silver lace, the clouds are strewn</div>
+ <div class='line'>Along the distant, dreamy zone;</div>
+ <div class='line'>It is a happy, happy time,</div>
+ <div class='line'>As wayward as a poet’s rhyme,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And ever as the sun goes down</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>The west is shut with rosy bars,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And Night puts on her golden crown</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>And fills the vases of the stars.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>A hundred nights, a hundred days,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Nor folded cloud nor silken haze</div>
+ <div class='line'>Mellow the sun’s midsummer blaze.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Along a brown and barren plain</div>
+ <div class='line'>In silence drags the wasted train;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The dust starts up beneath your tread,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like angry ashes of the dead,</div>
+ <div class='line'>To blind you with a choking cloud</div>
+ <div class='line'>And wrap you in a yellow shroud.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>There are no birds to sing your joy,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>You have no joy for birds to sing,—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>A hundred fangs your hearts destroy—</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>A thousand troubles fret and sting.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The desert mocks you all the while</div>
+ <div class='line'>With that dry shimmer of a smile</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That dazzles on a bleaching skull,—</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_388'>388</span>The bloom is withered on your cheek</div>
+ <div class='line'>You slowly move and lowly speak,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And every eye is dim and dull.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Alas, it is a lonesome land</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of bitter sage and barren sand</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Under a bitter, barren sky</div>
+ <div class='line'>That never heard the robin sing,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Nor kissed the larks’s exultant wing,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Nor breathed a rose’s fragrant sigh!</div>
+ <div class='line'>A weary land—alas! alas!</div>
+ <div class='line'>The shadows of the vultures pass—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>A spectral sign across your path;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The gaunt, gray wolf, with head askance</div>
+ <div class='line'>Throws back at you a scowlling glance</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of cringing hate and coward wrath.</div>
+ <div class='line'>And like a wraith accursed and banned</div>
+ <div class='line'>Fades out before your lifted hand;</div>
+ <div class='line'>A dim, sad land, forgot, forsworn</div>
+ <div class='line'>By all bright life that may not mourn—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Acrazed with glist’ning ghosts of seas</div>
+ <div class='line'>In broideries of flower and trees,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And rivers, blue and cool, that seem</div>
+ <div class='line'>To ripple as in fevered dream—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Only to taunt the thirst, and fly</div>
+ <div class='line'>From withered lips and lurid eye.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>A hundred days, a hundred nights—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The goal is farther than before,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And all the changing shades and lights</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Are wrought in fancy’s woof no more.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The sun is weary overhead,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And pallid deserts round you spread</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>A sorrowful eternity;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And if some grisly mountain here</div>
+ <div class='line'>Confront your march with forms of fear,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>You turn aside and pass them by.</div>
+ <div class='line'>And all are overworn—the flesh</div>
+ <div class='line'>Is now a frayed and faded mesh</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That will not mask the inward flame;</div>
+ <div class='line'>There is no longer any care</div>
+ <div class='line'>To round the speech, or speak men fair,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Or any gentle sense of shame;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The hearts of all are shifted through—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The grain drops through the windy husks</div>
+ <div class='line'>And false lights flick’ring round the true</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Are quenched at last in dews and dusk.</div>
+ <div class='line'>And some are silent, some are loud</div>
+ <div class='line'>And rage like beasts among the crowd,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>And some are mild, and some are sharp</div>
+ <div class='line'>In word and deed, and snarl and carp,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And fret the camp with petty broils;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And some of temper, sweet and bland,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Do seem to bear a magic wand</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That wins the secret of their toils—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Rare souls that waste like sandal-wood</div>
+ <div class='line'>In many a fragrant deed and mood;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And some invoke the wrath of God,</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_389'>389</span>Or feign to kiss the burning rod,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>And some, may be, with better prayers,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Stand up in all their griefs and cares</div>
+ <div class='line'>And clinch their teeth, and do and die</div>
+ <div class='line'>Without a whine, a curse or cry.</div>
+ <div class='line'>And so the dust and grit and stain</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of travel wears into the grain;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And so the hearts and souls of men</div>
+ <div class='line'>Were darkly tried and tested then</div>
+ <div class='line'>That, in the happy after years,</div>
+ <div class='line'>When rainbows gild remembered tears,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Should any friend inquire of you</div>
+ <div class='line'>If such or such an one you knew—</div>
+ <div class='line'>I hear the answer, terse and grim,</div>
+ <div class='line'>“Ah, yes; I crossed the plains with him!”</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>And, lo! a moaning phantom stands,</div>
+ <div class='line'>To greet you in the lonely lands,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Among all lesser shadows, dight</div>
+ <div class='line'>With spoils of death; his meager hands</div>
+ <div class='line'>Salute you as you pass, and claim</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The sacrifice that feeds his flame.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The march has broken into flight,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And wreck and ruin strew the road</div>
+ <div class='line'>The flaming phantom has bestrode;</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The ox lies gasping in his yoke</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Beside the wagon that he drew—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where the forsaken campfires smoke</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>To hopeless skies of tawny blue;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And here are straight, still mounds that mark</div>
+ <div class='line'>The flight of life’s delusive spark—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The somber points of pause that lie</div>
+ <div class='line'>So thick in human destiny.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And oh, so dark on this bleak page</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of drifting sand and dreary sage!</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>The sultry levels of the day,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The night with weird enchantment fills,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>And frowning forests stretch away</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Along the slopes of shadow hills;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And in the solemn stillness breaks</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The wild-wolf music of the plain,</div>
+ <div class='line'>As if a deeper sorrow wakes</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The dreary dead in that refrain</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>That swells and gathers like a wail</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Of woe from Pluto’s ebon pale,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And sinks in pulseless calm again.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>A change at last!—an opal mist</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Along the faint horizon’s rim</div>
+ <div class='line'>Is banked against the amethyst</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of summer sky—so far, so dim,</div>
+ <div class='line'>You shade your eyes, and gaze and gaze,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Until there wavers into sight</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>A swinging, swaying strand of white,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And then the sapphire walls and towns</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That breaks the light in quiv’ring showers</div>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_390'>390</span>And float and fade in diamond haze;—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>It is the mountains!—grand and calm</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>As God upon his awful throne;</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>They build you strength and breathe you balm,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>For all their templed might of stone</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Is our eternal sculptured psalm!</div>
+ <div class='line'>And now your western course is led</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where grassy pampas spread and spread</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The pastures of the buffalo;</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>And like the sudden lash of foam</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>When tropic tempest smite the sea</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And masts are stript to ward the blow—</div>
+ <div class='line'>A ragged whirl of dust described</div>
+ <div class='line'>Upon the prairie’s sloping side</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Portends a storm as swift and free,—</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>And lo, the herds—they come! they come!</div>
+ <div class='line'>A sweeping thunder cloud of life</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Loud as Niagara, and grand</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>As they who rode with plume and brand</div>
+ <div class='line'>On Waterloo’s red slope of strife;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Wild as the rush of tidal waves,</div>
+ <div class='line'>That roar among the crags and caves,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The trampling besom hurls along—</div>
+ <div class='line'>A black and bounding, fiery mass</div>
+ <div class='line'>That withers, as with flame, the grass—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>O! terrible—ten thousand strong!</div>
+ <div class='line'>Meanwhile, the dusty teams are stopt,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The wagon tongues are deftly dropt,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And drivers by their oxen stand</div>
+ <div class='line'>And soothe them with soft speech and hand.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And yet, with horns tossed free, and eyes</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Ablaze with purple depths of ire,</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>A thousand servile years expire</div>
+ <div class='line in2'>And flashes of old nature rise,</div>
+ <div class='line'>As if a sudden spirit woke</div>
+ <div class='line'>That would not brook the chain and yoke,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>And then, the stormy pageant past,</div>
+ <div class='line'>They bow their callous necks at last,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And with a heavy stride and slow,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The dreams of liberty forego.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Alas! it is a land of shades.</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And mystic visions, swift alarms;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The fretted spirit flames and fades</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>With clanging calls to prayers or arms.</div>
+ <div class='line'>* * * The day is dying, and the sun</div>
+ <div class='line'>Hangs like a jewel rich with fire</div>
+ <div class='line'>In the deep west of your desire.</div>
+ <div class='line'>And o’er the wide plateau is rolled</div>
+ <div class='line'>A surge of crinkled sunset gold,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Bordered with shadows gray and dun.</div>
+ <div class='line'>A horseman with loose, waving hair,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Black as the blackest of despair,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Wheels into sight and gives you heed,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And on its haunches reins his steed,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>All quivering like a river reed,</div>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_391'>391</span>And sits him like a statue there,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Transfigured in the sunset sea—</div>
+ <div class='line'>A bronze, bare sphynx of mystery!</div>
+ <div class='line'>A moment thus, in wonder lost,</div>
+ <div class='line'>His eagle plumes all backward tossed,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Then wheels again, as swift as wind,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The wild hair floating free behind.</div>
+ <div class='line'>And sunset’s crinkled surges pour</div>
+ <div class='line'>Along an empty waste once more!</div>
+ <div class='line'>But you, since that fantastic shade</div>
+ <div class='line'>Across your desert path has played,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Distrust the very ground you tread,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And shiver with a nameless dread</div>
+ <div class='line'>Till stars drop crimson, and the sky</div>
+ <div class='line'>Is wan with heartless treachery.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>For many days a form of white</div>
+ <div class='line'>Has flashed and faded in your sight</div>
+ <div class='line'>In fleeting glimpses, as of wings,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Our God’s bright palm in beckonings.</div>
+ <div class='line'>It is a secret nursed of each—</div>
+ <div class='line'>You dare not give the thought in speech,</div>
+ <div class='line'>So wierdly solemn is the sign—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>As if, upon the western stairs,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The angels of a thousand prayers</div>
+ <div class='line'>Were come with sacred bread and wine.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Again, the still, enchanted hour</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of sunset burns in crimson flower,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And purple-hearted shadows sleep</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like clustered pansies, warm and deep,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Eastward of wreathen crag and wall.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The road that wound and wound all day</div>
+ <div class='line'>In many a dark and devious way</div>
+ <div class='line'>At last with one swift curve ascends</div>
+ <div class='line'>A rolling plain that breaks and bends</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Westward, till rosy curtains fall</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>O’er mountains massed and magical.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Resplendent as a pearly tent</div>
+ <div class='line'>Upon the fir-fringed battlement—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Serene in sunset gold and rose,</div>
+ <div class='line'>A pyramid of splendor glows,</div>
+ <div class='line'>So vast and calm and bright your dream</div>
+ <div class='line'>Is dust and ashes in its gleam.</div>
+ <div class='line'>A maiden speaks—“He led us far—</div>
+ <div class='line'>It is the golden western star!”</div>
+ <div class='line'>And then a youth—“Our goal is won—</div>
+ <div class='line'>’Tis the pavilion of the sun.”</div>
+ <div class='line'>A gray sage, then, in undertone—</div>
+ <div class='line'>“It must be Hood, so grand and lone—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The shining citadel and throne</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of Terminus, that Roman god</div>
+ <div class='line'>Who marked the line that legions trod,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And set the limits of the world</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where Cæsar’s battle flags were furled!</div>
+ <div class='line'>Oh, for the days of dark-eyed prophetess</div>
+ <div class='line'>Who sang in Syrian wilderness</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The gilded chariots’ overthrow,</div>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_392'>392</span>To lead us for the cymbaled song</div>
+ <div class='line'>To him, the beautiful and strong,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Who dashed the brimming cup of woe</div>
+ <div class='line'>And was our cloud and flame so long!”</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Forward! the crested mountains kneel</div>
+ <div class='line'>To patient tolls of fire and steel—</div>
+ <div class='line'>A way is hewn and you emerge</div>
+ <div class='line'>Upon the Cascades’ battled verge;—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And far beneath you and away</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>To ocean’s shining fringe of foam</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And summer vail of floating spray,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Behold the land of your emprise,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Serene as tender twilight skies</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>When day is swooning into gloam!</div>
+ <div class='line'>It is the morning twilight now</div>
+ <div class='line'>That wraps the valley’s misted brow;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The bourgeoning and blooming dawn—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The reveille of Oregon.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>How brightly on your vision, first</div>
+ <div class='line'>The pictured vales and woodlands burst,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>The lakelets set like twinkling gems</div>
+ <div class='line'>Along the prairies’ pleated hems,—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The silver crooks and rippled sweeps</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>Of happy rivers here and there,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And many a waterfall that leaps</div>
+ <div class='line in8'>In rainbow garlands through the air,—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The skirted maples and the groves</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of oak the mild home-spirit loves—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Enameled plains and crenelled hills</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And tangled skeins of brooks and rills,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Imperial forests of the fir,</div>
+ <div class='line'>All redolent of musk and myrrh,</div>
+ <div class='line'>That fling and furl their banners old,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And still their gloomy secret hold</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>As Time his cloudy censer fills.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Where the foothills are wedded to the meadow</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In the dimples that dally and pass</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the oak swings an indolent shadow</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>On the daisies that dial the grass.—</div>
+ <div class='line'>In the crescents of rivers; in hollows</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Red-lipped in the strawberry time,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the slope where the forests half follows,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>A brooklet’s melodious rhyme,—</div>
+ <div class='line'>On the sun-rippled knolls, and the prairies,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Beloved of the wandering kine—</div>
+ <div class='line'>In the skirts of the woodland the fairies</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Embroidered with rose and with vine—</div>
+ <div class='line'>There’s a tent, and a smoke that is curling</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Above in the beautiful dome,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like a guardian spirit unfurling</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Soft wings o’er the temple of home.</div>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_393'>393</span>And the ax of the woodman is ringing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>All day in sylvestrian halls,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where the chipmunk is playfully springing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And the blue-jay discordantly calls;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the red chips are fitfully flying</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>On the asters that sprinkle the moss;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where the beauty of summer is dying,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And the sun lances glimmer across;</div>
+ <div class='line'>There’s a bird that is spectrally knocking,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>On a pine that is withered and bare,</div>
+ <div class='line'>For the fir-top is trembling and rocking,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In the blue of the clear upper air—</div>
+ <div class='line'>There’s a crackling of fiber—the crashing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of a century crushed at a blow,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the fir-trees are wringing and lashing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Their hands in a frenzy of woe!</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>A pheasant whirs up from the thicket</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In the hush that comes after the fall,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the squirrel retires to his wicket,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And the bluebird renounces his call;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the panther lies crouched by the bowlder</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In the gloom of the canyon anear,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the brown bear looks over his shoulder,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And the buck blows a signal of fear;</div>
+ <div class='line'>But there’s never a pause in your duty,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And the echoing ax is not still</div>
+ <div class='line'>As you waste with the green temples of beauty</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>For the puncheon and rafter and sill</div>
+ <div class='line'>That are wrought in a cabin so lowly</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The trees will clasp hands over head,</div>
+ <div class='line'>But the heart calls it home, and the holy</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Love-lights on its hearthstone are shed.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>It is staunch and rough-hewn, and the ceiling</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of the fragrant red cedar is made,</div>
+ <div class='line'>With an edging of silver revealing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>A picture of sunlight and shade.</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the Word has its place, not a trifle</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Obscured in a pageant of books,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And above the broad mantle your rifle</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Is hung on accessible hooks.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Oh, the freshness of hope and of fancy</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That illumines the home and the heart,</div>
+ <div class='line'>With the grace of a bright necromancy</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That excels the adorning of art!</div>
+ <div class='line'>And you rise and look forth and the glory</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of Hood is before you again,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the sun weaves a gold-threaded story</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In the purple of mountain and glen.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Stand up, and look out from the mansion</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That adorns the old scene of the past</div>
+ <div class='line'>On the fruitage of hope—the expansion</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of the fruits of your vigils forecast!</div>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_394'>394</span>While the shadows of Hood have been wheeling</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Away from the face of the sun,</div>
+ <div class='line'>What a glamour of change has been stealing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>On the fields that you painfully won!</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like the castles that fade at cock-crowing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The enchantments arise and advance</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where the cities of commerce are glowing</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Like pearls in the braids of romance;</div>
+ <div class='line'>For a state, in the shimmering armor</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of the Pallas Athena has come,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And her ægis is fringed with the warmer</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Refulgence that circles our home.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>As for you, you are gray, and the thunder</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Of the battle has smitten each brow</div>
+ <div class='line'>Where the freshness of youth was turned under</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>By Time’s immemorial plow;</div>
+ <div class='line'>But the pictures of memory linger,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Like the shadows that turn to the East,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And will point with a tremulous finger</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>To the things that are perished and ceased;</div>
+ <div class='line'>For the trail and the foot-log have vanished,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The canoe is a song and a tale,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And flickering church spire has banished</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>The uncanny red man from the vale;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The cayuse is no longer in fashion—</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>He is gone—with a flutter of heels,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the old wars are dead, and their passions</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In the crystal of culture congeals;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And the wavering flare of the pitch light</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>That illumines your banquets no more,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Will return like a wandering witch-light</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And uncrimson the fancies of yore—</div>
+ <div class='line'>When you dance the “Old Arkansaw” gaily</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In brogans that had followed the bear,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And quaffed the delight of Castaly</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>From the fiddle that wailed like despair;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And so lightly you wrought with the hammer,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>And so truly with ax and with plow—</div>
+ <div class='line'>And you blazed your own trails through the grammar,</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>As the record must fairly allow;</div>
+ <div class='line'>But you builded a state in whose arches</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>Shall be carven the deed and the name,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And posterity lengthens its marches</div>
+ <div class='line in4'>In the golden starlight of your fame!</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_395'>395</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>PILGRIMS OF THE PLAINS.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+ <div>By <span class='sc'>Joaquin Miller</span>.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c015'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>A tale half told and hardly understood;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The talk of bearded men that chanced to meet,</div>
+ <div class='line'>That lean’d on long quaint rifles in the wood,</div>
+ <div class='line'>That look’d in fellow faces, spoke discreet</div>
+ <div class='line'>And low, as half in doubt and in defeat</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of hope; a tale it was of lands of gold</div>
+ <div class='line'>That lay toward the sun. Wild wing’d and fleet</div>
+ <div class='line'>It spread among the swift Missouri’s bold</div>
+ <div class='line'>Unbridled men, and reach’d to where Ohio roll’d.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Then long chain’d lines of yoked and patient steers;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Then long white trains that pointed to the west;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Beyond the savage west; the hopes and fears</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of blunt, untutor’d men, who hardly guess’d</div>
+ <div class='line'>Their course; the brave and silent women, dress’d</div>
+ <div class='line'>In homely spun attire, the boys in bands,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The cheery babes that laughed at all and bless’d</div>
+ <div class='line'>The doubting hearts with laughing lifted hands—</div>
+ <div class='line'>What exodus for far untraversed lands!</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>The Plains! The shouting drivers at the wheel;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The crash of leather whips; the crush and roll</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of wheels; the groan of yokes and grinding steel</div>
+ <div class='line'>And iron chain, and lo! at last the whole</div>
+ <div class='line'>Vast line, that reached as if to touch the goal,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Began to stretch and stream away and wind</div>
+ <div class='line'>Toward the west, as if with one control:</div>
+ <div class='line'>Then hope loom’d fair, and home lay far behind;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Before, the boundless plain, and fiercest of their kind.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>At first the way lay green and fresh as seas,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And far away as any reach of wave;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The sunny streams went by in belt of trees;</div>
+ <div class='line'>And here and there the tassell’d tawny brave</div>
+ <div class='line'>Swept by on horse, looked back, stretched forth and gave</div>
+ <div class='line'>A yell of hell, and then did wheel and rein</div>
+ <div class='line'>Awhile and point away, dark-brow’d and grave,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Into the far and dim and distant plain</div>
+ <div class='line'>With signs and prophecies, and then plunged on again.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Some hills at last began to lift and break;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Some streams began to fail of wood and tide,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The somber plain began betime to take</div>
+ <div class='line'>A hue of weary brown, and wild and wide</div>
+ <div class='line'>It stretch’d its naked breast on every side.</div>
+ <div class='line'>A babe was heard at last to cry for bread</div>
+ <div class='line'>Amid the deserts; cattle low’d and died,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And dying men went by with broken tread,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And left a long black serpent line of wreck and dead.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_396'>396</span>Strange hunger’d birds, black-wing’d and still as death,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And crown’d of red and hooked beaks, flew low</div>
+ <div class='line'>And close about till we could touch their breath—</div>
+ <div class='line'>Strange unnamed birds, that seem’d to come and go</div>
+ <div class='line'>In circles now, and now direct and slow,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Continual, yet never touch the earth;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Slim foxes shied and shuttled to and fro</div>
+ <div class='line'>At times across the dusty weary dearth</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of life, looked back, then sank like crickets in a hearth.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Then dust arose, a long dim line like smoke</div>
+ <div class='line'>From out of riven earth. The wheels went groaning by,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The thousand feet in harness, and in yoke,</div>
+ <div class='line'>They tore the ways of ashen alkali,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And desert winds blew sudden, swift, and dry.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The dust! It sat upon and fill’d the train.</div>
+ <div class='line'>It seem’d to fret and fill the very sky.</div>
+ <div class='line'>Lo! dust upon the beasts, the tent, the plain,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And dust, alas! on breasts that rose not up again.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>They sat in desolation and in dust</div>
+ <div class='line'>By dried-up desert streams; the mother’s hands</div>
+ <div class='line'>Hid all her bended face; the cattle thrust</div>
+ <div class='line'>Their tongues and faintly called across the lands.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The babes that knew not what the way through sands</div>
+ <div class='line'>Could mean, did ask if it would end today.</div>
+ <div class='line'>The panting wolves slid by, red-eyed, in bands</div>
+ <div class='line'>To pools beyond. The men look’d far away,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And silent deemed that all a boundless desert lay.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>They rose by night, they struggl’d on and on</div>
+ <div class='line'>As thin and still as ghosts; then here and there</div>
+ <div class='line'>Beside the dusty way before the dawn,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Men silent laid them down in their despair,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And died. But woman! Woman, frail as fair!</div>
+ <div class='line'>May man have strength to give to you your due;</div>
+ <div class='line'>You falter’d not nor murmur’d anywhere,</div>
+ <div class='line'>You held your babes, held to your course, and you</div>
+ <div class='line'>Bore on through burning hell your double burdens through.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>Men stood at last, the decimated few,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Above a land of running streams, and they?</div>
+ <div class='line'>They pushed aside the boughs, and peering through</div>
+ <div class='line'>Beheld afar the cool refreshing bay;</div>
+ <div class='line'>Then some did curse, and some bend hands to pray;</div>
+ <div class='line'>But some looked back upon the desert wide</div>
+ <div class='line'>And desolate with death, then all the day</div>
+ <div class='line'>They mourned. But one, with nothing left beside</div>
+ <div class='line'>His dog to love, crept down among the ferns and died.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_397'>397</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>PIONEERS OF THE PACIFIC</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+ <div>BY JOAQUIN MILLER.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c015'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>The wild man’s yell, the groaning wheel,</div>
+ <div class='line'>The train moved like drifting barge;</div>
+ <div class='line'>The dust rose up like a cloud,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Like smoke of distant battle loud! Loud</div>
+ <div class='line'>The great whips rang like shot, and steel</div>
+ <div class='line'>Flashed back as in some battle charge.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>They sought, yea, they did find their rest</div>
+ <div class='line'>Along that long and lonesome way,</div>
+ <div class='line'>Those brave men buffeting the West</div>
+ <div class='line'>With lifted faces. Full they were</div>
+ <div class='line'>Of great endeavor.</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>       ·       ·       ·       ·       ·</div>
+ </div>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line in24'>When</div>
+ <div class='line'>Adown the shining iron track</div>
+ <div class='line'>We sweep, and fields of corn flash back,</div>
+ <div class='line'>And herds of lowing steers move by,</div>
+ <div class='line'>I turn to other days, to men</div>
+ <div class='line'>Who made a pathway with their dust.</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_398'>398</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>DOCUMENT.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c011'>The following is one of a set of documents giving
+contemporary evidence on a most important epoch of
+Oregon history. It was secured by Principal J. R.
+Wilson.</p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-b c014'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'>(From the New Orleans Picayune, November 21, 1848.)</div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c013'>PRAIRIE AND MOUNTAIN LIFE—THE OREGON EMIGRANTS.</h3>
+
+<p class='c016'>During our detention among the upper settlements,
+before starting out, a constant source of interest to us
+was the gathering of people bound to Oregon. One
+Sunday morning, about the usual church hour in a
+larger place, five or six wagons passed through the town
+of Westport, and one old man with silver hair was with
+the party. Women and children were walking, fathers
+and brothers were driving loose cattle or managing the
+heavy teams, and keen-eyed youngsters, with their chins
+yet smooth and rifles on their shoulders, kept in advance
+of the wagons with long strides, looking as if they were
+already watching around the corners of the streets for
+game. There was one striking feature about the party
+which leads us to name it more particularly. Though
+traveling on the Sabbath and through the little town
+that was all quiet and resting from business in reverence
+of the day, there was that in the appearance of the people
+that banished at once even the remotest idea of profanation.
+They were all clean, and evidently appareled
+in their best Sunday gear. Their countenances were
+sedate, and the women wore that mild composure of
+visage—so pleasantly resigned, so eloquent of a calm
+spirit, so ready to kindle up into smiles—that is seen
+more often among churchgoers, perhaps, than in ballroom
+or boudoir. Some of the women carried books,
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_399'>399</span>and the prettiest girl carried hers open before her as she
+stepped a little coquettishly through the dust of the road.
+Whether she was reading, or trying, or pretending to
+read, was hard to tell, but the action had a naive effect,
+and as she passed she was, no doubt, much astonished
+at a strange young gentleman who audibly addressed
+her with, “Nymph, in thy orisons, be all my sins remembered.”</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>Many other small bodies of these adventurous travelers
+crossed our notice at Independence, Westport, and at
+encampments made in the vicinity of these and other
+towns, but in their largest force we saw them just after
+crossing the Kansas River about the first of June. The
+Oregonians were assembled here to the number of six or
+eight hundred, and when we passed their encampment
+they were engaged in the business of electing officers to
+regulate and conduct their proceedings. It was a curious
+and unaccountable spectacle to us as we approached.
+We saw a large body of men wheeling and marching
+about the prairie, describing evolutions neither recognizable
+as savage, civic or military. We soon knew they
+were not Indians, and were not long in setting them
+down for the emigrants, but what in the name of mystery
+they were about our best guessing could not reduce
+to anything in the shape of a mathematical probability.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>On arriving among them, however, we found they
+were only going on with their elections in a manner perhaps
+old enough, but very new and quizzical to us.
+The candidates stood up in a row behind the constituents,
+and at a given signal they wheeled about and
+marched off, while the general mass broke after them
+“lick-a-ty-split”, each man forming in behind his favorite
+so that every candidate flourished a sort of a tail of his
+own, and the man with the longest tail was elected! These
+proceedings were continued until a captain and a council
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_400'>400</span>of ten were elected; and, indeed, if the scene can be
+conceived, it must appear as a curious mingling of the
+whimsical with the wild. Here was a congregation of
+rough, bold, and adventurous men, gathered from distant
+and opposite points of the Union, just forming an
+acquaintance with each other, to last, in all probability,
+through good or ill fortune, through the rest of their
+days. Few of them expected, or thought, of ever returning
+to the states again. They had with them their
+wives and children, and aged, depending relatives. They
+were going with stout and determined hearts to traverse
+a wild and desolate region, and take possession of a
+far corner of their country destined to prove a new and
+strong arm of a mighty nation. These men were running
+about the prairie, in long strings; the leaders,—in
+sport and for the purpose of puzzling the judges, doubling
+and winding in the drollest fashion; so that, the
+all-important business of forming a government seemed
+very much like the merry schoolboy game of “snapping
+the whip.” It was really very funny to see the candidates
+for the solemn council of ten, run several hundred
+yards away, to show off the length of their tails, and
+then cut a half circle, so as to turn and admire their
+longitudinal popularity <i>in extenso</i> themselves. “Running
+for office” is certainly performed in more literal
+fashion on the prairie than we see the same sort of business
+performed in town. To change the order of a town
+election, though for once, it might prove an edifying
+exhibition to see a mayor and aldermen start from the
+town pump and run around the court house square, the
+voters falling in behind and the rival ticket running the
+other way, while a band in the middle might tune up
+for both parties, playing “O, What a Long Tail Our Cat’s
+Got;” which we surmise some popular composer may
+have arranged for such an occasion.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_401'>401</span>After passing them here, we never saw the Oregonians
+again. They elected a young lawyer of some
+eminence as we were told, named Burnett, as their captain,
+and engaged an old mountaineer, known as Captain
+Gant, as their guide through the mountains to Fort Hall.
+Several enactments were made and agreed to, one of
+which was called up to be rescinded, and something of
+an excitement arose in regard to it. The law made was
+that no family should drive along more than three head
+of loose stock for each member composing it, and this
+bore hard on families that had brought with them cattle
+in large numbers. The dispute resulted in a split of
+the large body into two or three divisions; and so they
+moved on, making distinct encampments all the way.
+Captain Gant was to receive $1.00 a head from the company,
+numbering about a thousand souls, for his services
+as guide. But a few more such expeditions following in
+the same trail will soon imprint such a highway through
+the wilderness to Oregon that emigrants may hereafter
+travel without such assistance.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>We left them here about the last of May and encountered
+no sign of them again until returning in September,
+when we struck their trail on the Sweetwater,
+near the south pass of the mountains. They had followed
+in our own trail as far as this point and had
+here turned off, our course lying in another direction.
+From here, all the way to Fort Laramie, we found the
+now deeply worn road strewn with indications of their
+recent presence. Scaffolds for drying meat, broken utensils
+thrown away, chips showing where wagons had been
+repaired, and remnants of children’s shoes, frocks, etc.,
+met our notice at every deserted encampment.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>But one death seemed to have occurred among them,
+and this was far out under the mountains. Here the
+loose riders of our moving camp gathered one morning
+<span class='pageno' id='Page_402'>402</span>to examine a rude pyramid of stones by the roadside.
+The stones had been planted firmly in the earth, and
+those on top were substantially placed, so that the wolves,
+whose marks were evident about the pile, had not been
+able to disinter the dead. On one stone, larger than the
+rest, and with a flat side, was rudely engraved:</p>
+
+<div class='border'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+ <div class='nf-center'>
+ <div>J. HEMBREE.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+<p class='c017'>And we place it here as perhaps the only memento those
+who knew him in the States may ever receive of him.
+How he died, we of course cannot surmise, but there he
+sleeps among the rocks of the West as soundly as if
+chiseled marble was built above his bones.</p>
+
+<p class='c009'>On returning to Rock Independence, a point about
+nine hundred miles from the settlements, we were astonished
+at finding that the Oregonians had reached and
+passed it only four days behind us. We had confidently
+supposed them four weeks in our rear, and their rapid
+progress augurs well for the success of their enterprise.
+On the rock we found printed:</p>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+ <div class='nf-center'>
+ <div>“THE OREGON CO.</div>
+ <div>arrived</div>
+ <div>July 26, 1843.”</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'>At Fort Laramie we were told that they were still
+well provisioned when passing there, and could even
+afford to trade away flour, coffee, etc., for necessaries of
+other kinds. But it was droll to hear how the Sioux
+stared at the great caravans. Some of them on seeing
+the great number of wagons, and particularly white
+women and children, for the first time, began to think
+of coming down here, having seen, as they supposed,
+“the whole white village” move up the mountains.</p>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_403'>403</span>
+ <h2 class='c003'>INDEX.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<div>
+ <span class='pageno' id='Page_405'>405</span>
+ <h3 class='c001'>TOPICAL INDEX.</h3>
+</div>
+
+<ul class='index c002'>
+ <li class='c018'>ADAMS—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Proposals on the Oregon Question, 220</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>ASTORIA—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Settlement of, 10</li>
+ <li>Restitution of, to U. S., 214</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>BAYLIES—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Speeches of, on Oregon, 21</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>BENTON—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Oregon policy of, 13, 16, 50, 52</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>CALHOUN—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Opposition of, to Oregon bill, 235</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>CALIFORNIA—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Contract labor in mines of, 281</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>CARVER—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Use of word Oregon by, 112, 166</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>CHAMPOEG—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Origin of name, 88</li>
+ <li>Early life in, 88, 89</li>
+ <li>Early settlement near, 173</li>
+ <li>Early manners of, 172, 176</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>CHOLERA—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Ravages of, among immigrants to Oregon, 363</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>CLAY—
+ <ul>
+ <li>On the Oregon Question, 221</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>COLUMBIA RIVER—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Discovery of, 113</li>
+ <li>Proposed as boundary, 215</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>DOUGLAS—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Interest in Oregon Question, 40</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>ENGLAND—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Rivalry of, in Oregon Country, 6</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>EDUCATION—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Appropriation of public land for in Oregon, 148</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>FLOYD—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Oregon policy of, 13–17, 218</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>FREMONT—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Work of, in Oregon, 330</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>GOVERNMENT—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Lack of in early Oregon, 9, 10</li>
+ <li>First exercise of, 10, 11</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'><span class='pageno' id='Page_406'>406</span>GOLD—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Effect of early discoveries of, 103</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>GRAY—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Explorations of, 113</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>INDIANS—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Customs of, 77</li>
+ <li>Behavior toward white women, 82</li>
+ <li>Matthieu’s recollections of, 99</li>
+ <li>Religious customs of, 179</li>
+ <li>Legends of the, 183</li>
+ <li>Request of, for missionaries, 225, 346</li>
+ <li>First estimate of, in Oregon Country, 296</li>
+ <li>Position of women among the Oregon, 296</li>
+ <li>Funeral customs of, 300</li>
+ <li>Poor food supply of, 302</li>
+ <li>Estimate and census of Oregon Indians, 314</li>
+ <li>Language, peculiarities of, 317</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>JACKSON—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Effort of, to acquire San Francisco Bay, 228</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>KELLEY, HALL J.—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Visit to Oregon in 1834, 195</li>
+ <li>Work in Oregon, 224</li>
+ <li>Work of, 349</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>LEE—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Petition of, to Congress, 28, 29</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>LINN—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Oregon policy of, 26, 230, 235</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>LANDS—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Cession of state claims to western, 136</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>LANE—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Arrival in Oregon, 52</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>LEDYARD—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Plan of, for exploring Oregon, 115</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>LEWIS AND CLARK—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Plan for the expedition of, 120</li>
+ <li>Grant of land to, 144</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>LOUISIANA—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Purchase of, by U. S., 147</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>McLOUGHLIN—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Influence of, 11, 12</li>
+ <li>Notes on, 95, 96</li>
+ <li>Treatment of American settlers, 105</li>
+ <li>Domestic life of, 158</li>
+ <li>Trouble with American immigrants, 201</li>
+ <li>Hospital work of, 308</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>MISSIONARIES—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Early settlements of, in Oregon, 194, 196, 225</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>MONEY IN EARLY OREGON, 102</li>
+ <li class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_407'>407</span>NOOTKA—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Convention of, 125</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>OREGON—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Original extent of, 4, 111</li>
+ <li>Primitive isolation of, 6</li>
+ <li>Territorial admission of, 52</li>
+ <li>Motives for statehood in, 53</li>
+ <li>Opposition to statehood in, 54</li>
+ <li>Constitutional Convention of, 55</li>
+ <li>Admission of, as a state, 58</li>
+ <li>Dangers of pioneer travel to, 61, 62</li>
+ <li>Characters of pioneers in, 63, 64</li>
+ <li>First use of the name, 112, 166</li>
+ <li>Spanish claims to, 122</li>
+ <li>Southern boundary of, fixed, 127</li>
+ <li>Russian claims to, 128</li>
+ <li>Northern boundary of, fixed, 127</li>
+ <li>School lands of, 154</li>
+ <li>Early American visitors to, 193</li>
+ <li>Early immigration to, 198</li>
+ <li>Dispute over northern boundary of, 215</li>
+ <li>Discussion over occupation of, 218</li>
+ <li>Character of early settlement in, 224</li>
+ <li>Fifty-four deg. 40 min. boundary of, 243</li>
+ <li>Settlement of northern boundary of, 251</li>
+ <li>Estimate and census of Indians in, 314</li>
+ <li>Condition of, in 1842, 327</li>
+ <li>Fur trade in, 329, 335</li>
+ <li>Motives for movement to, 352</li>
+ <li>Summary of negotiations for, 349</li>
+ <li>Difficulties of route to, 359</li>
+ <li>Estimate of immigrations to, 370</li>
+ <li>Character of immigrants to, 398</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>PARKMAN—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Estimate of work of, on Oregon Trail, 342</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>POLK—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Inaugural address on Oregon, 46</li>
+ <li>Message of, 1845 on Oregon, 47</li>
+ <li>Message of, 1847, 49</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>POPULATION MOVEMENT—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Effect on Oregon, 8</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Notices for, 32, 33</li>
+ <li>First steps toward, 33</li>
+ <li>Objections to, 34, 35</li>
+ <li>Plan of, 36</li>
+ <li>Changes in, 37, 38</li>
+ <li>Effectiveness of, 39</li>
+ <li>Indian attitude toward, 40</li>
+ <li>Lane’s verdict on, 52</li>
+ <li>Notes on organization of, 91</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>SAUVIE’S ISLAND—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Indian population of, 310</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'><span class='pageno' id='Page_408'>408</span>SLACUM—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Visit of, to Oregon Country, 228</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>SLAVERY—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Influence of, on admission of Oregon Territory, 48, 50, 51, 147</li>
+ <li>In Constitutional Convention, 56</li>
+ <li>In early Oregon, 101</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>SOVEREIGNTY—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Occupation the test of, 123</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>TEXAS—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Influence of, on Oregon Question, 288</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>TYLER—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Message of, 1842 on Oregon, 41, 234</li>
+ <li>Message of, 1843, 44</li>
+ <li>Message of, 1844, 45</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c006'>WASHINGTON—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Territorial formation of, 53</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>WEBSTER—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Opinion of, on Oregon Question, 239</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>WHITE—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Appointment of, as sub-Indian agent, 31</li>
+ <li>Settlement of, in Oregon, 241</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>WHITMAN—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Character and aims of, 41, 42</li>
+ <li>Work of, 42, 241</li>
+ <li>Character of, 61</li>
+ <li>Matthieu’s estimate of, 85</li>
+ <li>Views of, on Oregon’s needs, 351</li>
+ <li>Influence of, 381</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>WILKES—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Work of, in Oregon, 333</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+ <li class='c018'>WYETH—
+ <ul>
+ <li>Visits of, to Oregon, 194</li>
+ <li>Settlement in Oregon, 223</li>
+ </ul>
+ </li>
+</ul>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <h2 class='c003'><span class='large'>PUBLICATIONS</span><br> <span class='small'>OF THE</span><br> <span class='sc'>Oregon Historical Society</span></h2>
+</div>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>SOURCES OF THE HISTORY OF OREGON</h3>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c002'>
+ <div><span class='sc'>Volume I</span></div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>Number 1.—Journal of Medorem Crawford—An Account of His
+Trip Across the Plains in 1842. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>Number 2.—The Indian Council at Walla Walla, May and June,
+1855, by Col. Lawrence Kip—A Journal. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>Numbers 3 to 6 Inclusive.—The Correspondence and Journals of
+Captain Nathaniel J. Wyeth, 1831–6.—A Record of Two Expeditions,
+for the Occupation of the Oregon Country, with Maps, Introduction
+and Index. Price, $1.10.</span></p>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>The Proceedings of the Oregon Historical Society for 1898–9,
+Including Paper by Silas B. Smith, on “Beginnings in Oregon,”
+97 Pages. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p>
+
+<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>The Proceedings of the Oregon Historical Society for 1899–1900.
+Including Two Historical Papers, 120 Pages. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p>
+
+<h3 class='c008'>QUARTERLY OF THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY.</h3>
+
+<table class='table2'>
+ <tr><th class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>No. 2, Vol. I, June, 1900.</span></th></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Joseph R. Wilson</i>—<span class='sc'>The Oregon Question</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>111</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Frances F. Victor</i>—<span class='sc'>Our Public Land System and its Relation to Education in the United States</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>132</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Mrs. William Markland Molson</i>—<span class='sc'>Glimpses of Life in Early Oregon</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>158</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>H. W. Scott</i>—<span class='sc'>Not Marjoram.—The Spanish Word “Oregano” not the Original of Oregon</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>165</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Reminiscences of Louis Labonte</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>169</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Frances F. Victor</i>—<span class='sc'>Dr. Elliott Coues</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>189</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Document.</span>—A Narrative of Events In Early Oregon ascribed to Dr. John McLoughlin</td>
+ <td class='c019'>193</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Reviews of Books.</span>—<i>Eva Emery Dye’s</i> “McLoughlin and Old Oregon”</td>
+ <td class='c019'>207</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>H. K. Hines’</i> “Missionary History of the Pacific Northwest”</td>
+ <td class='c019'>210</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='bbt c004'><span class='sc'>Note.</span>—A Correction</td>
+ <td class='bbt c019'>212</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr><th class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>No. 3, Vol. I, September, 1900.</span></th></tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>Joseph R. Wilson</i>—<span class='sc'>The Oregon Question II.</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>213</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Reminiscences of Hugh Cosgrove</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>253</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Reminiscences of Wm. M. Case</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>269</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>John Minto</i>—<span class='sc'>The Number and Condition of the Native Race in Oregon When First Seen by White Men</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>296</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Indian Names</span></td>
+ <td class='c019'>316</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Documents</span>—Oregon articles reprinted from a file of the N. Y. <cite>Tribune</cite>, 1842.</td>
+ <td class='c019'>327</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class='c004'>Letter by William Plumer, Senator from N. H.</td>
+ <td class='c019'>336</td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c0'>
+<div class='nf-center c006'>
+ <div>PRICE: THIRTY-FIVE CENTS PER NUMBER, ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR.</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='chapter'>
+ <h2 class='c003'>UNIVERSITY OF OREGON.</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class='c011'><i>THE GRADUATE SCHOOL confers the degrees of
+Master of Arts, (and in prospect, of Doctor of Philosophy,)
+Civil and Sanitary Engineer (C. E.), Electrical
+Engineer (E. E.), Chemical Engineer (Ch.E.),
+and Mining Engineer (Min. E.)</i></p>
+
+<p class='c009'><i>THE COLLEGE OF LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND THE
+ARTS confers the degree of Bachelor of Arts on
+graduates from the following groups: (1) General
+Classical; (2) General Literary; (3) General Scientific;
+(4) Civic-Historical. It offers Collegiate Courses
+not leading to a degree as follows: (1) Preparatory
+to Law or Journalism; (2) Course for Teachers.</i></p>
+
+<p class='c009'><i>THE COLLEGE OF SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING.</i>—</p>
+
+<p class='c020'><i>A.—The School of Applied Science confers the degree
+of Bachelor of Science on graduates from
+the following groups; (1) General Science; (2)
+Chemistry; (3) Physics; (4) Biology; (5) Geology
+and Mineralogy. It offers a Course Preparatory
+to Medicine.</i></p>
+
+<p class='c020'><i>B.—The School of Engineering: (1) Civil and Sanitary;
+(2) Electrical; (3) Chemical.</i></p>
+
+<div class='lg-container-l c021'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF MINES AND MINING.</i></div>
+ <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF MEDICINE at Portland.</i></div>
+ <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF LAW at Portland.</i></div>
+ <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF MUSIC.</i></div>
+ <div class='line'><i>THE UNIVERSITY ACADEMY.</i></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='lg-container-r c021'>
+ <div class='linegroup'>
+ <div class='group'>
+ <div class='line'><i>Address</i></div>
+ <div class='line in20'><span class='sc'><span class='large'>The President,</span></span></div>
+ <div class='line in24'><span class='sc'>Eugene, Oregon.</span></div>
+ </div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+<div class='pbb'>
+ <hr class='pb c002'>
+</div>
+<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'>
+
+<div class='chapter ph2'>
+
+<div class='nf-center-c1'>
+<div class='nf-center c022'>
+ <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+
+</div>
+
+ <ul class='ul_1 c006'>
+ <li>Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
+ </li>
+ </ul>
+
+</div>
+
+<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78187 ***</div>
+ </body>
+ <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57i (with regex) on 2026-02-13 01:06:57 GMT -->
+</html>