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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/78187-0.txt b/78187-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c3702b8 --- /dev/null +++ b/78187-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2788 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78187 *** + + + + + THE QUARTERLY + OF THE + OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY. + VOLUME 1 + DECEMBER, 1900 + NUMBER 4 + OREGON TRAIL NUMBER. + +[Illustration: Seal of the Oregon Historical Society showing crossed +tools and a handshake, with the words 'Peace and Friendship' and +'Incorporated December 17, 1898.'] + + + + + CONTENTS. + + + _F. G. Young_—THE OREGON TRAIL 339 + _Jesse Applegate_—A DAY WITH THE COW COLUMN IN 1843 371 + COL. GEORGE L. CURREY’S TRIBUTE TO THE OX WHIP 384 + _Sam L. Simpson_—THE CAMP FIRES OF THE PIONEERS 385 + _Joaquin Miller_—PILGRIMS OF THE PLAINS 395 + _Joaquin Miller_—PIONEERS OF THE PACIFIC 397 + DOCUMENTS—The Oregon Emigrants, 1843 398 + + + PRICE: THIRTY-FIVE CENTS PER NUMBER, ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR + + + + + THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY + + ORGANIZED DECEMBER 17, 1898 + + + H. W. SCOTT PRESIDENT + C. B. BELLINGER VICE-PRESIDENT + F. G. YOUNG SECRETARY + CHARLES E. LADD TREASURER + GEORGE H. HIMES, Assistant + Secretary. + + + DIRECTORS + + THE GOVERNOR OF OREGON, _ex officio_. + THE SUPERINTENDENT OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION, _ex officio_. + + Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1901, + F. G. YOUNG, L. B. COX. + + Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1902, + JAMES R. ROBERTSON, JOSEPH R. WILSON. + + Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1903, + C. B. BELLINGER, MRS. MARIA L. MYRICK. + + Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1901, + H. W. SCOTT, MRS. HARRIET K. McARTHUR. + +_The Quarterly_ is sent free to all members of the Society. The annual +dues are two dollars. The fee for life membership is twenty-five +dollars. + +Contributions to _The Quarterly_ and correspondence relative to +historical materials, or pertaining to the affairs of this Society, +should be addressed to + + F. G. YOUNG, + _Secretary_. + + EUGENE, OREGON. + +Subscriptions for _The Quarterly_, or for the other publications of the +Society, should be sent to + + GEORGE H. HIMES, + _Assistant Secretary_. + + CITY HALL, PORTLAND, OREGON. + +[Illustration: Faint hand-drawn map of Oregon showing early trail routes +and transportation lines across the state, with rivers and small place +labels.] + + + + + VOLUME I] DECEMBER, 1900 [NUMBER 4 + + THE QUARTERLY + + OF THE + + OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY. + + + + + THE OREGON TRAIL. + + +The early Oregon pioneers not only gained the first secure foothold for +the American people on the Pacific Coast, but their movement opened the +way to American occupation and in itself counted as an occupation of +that realm for American civilization. They moved across the continent at +an auspicious time, and so were able to influence, if not to shape, the +course of great events touching the widening of the American dominion on +the Pacific. It was all done so quietly, so efficiently, at so +comparatively small cost and without any shock of harrowing disaster, +that the world has yet to connect the momentous results with a cause +seemingly so inadequate. + +As the American people come to realize that their distinctively national +achievement so far, next to that of maintaining a national integrity, +has been that of preempting and subduing an adequate dominion and home +for a civilization they will revere the services of those who made the +transcontinental migrations in the thirties, forties and fifties. The +glory that belongs to the participants in those migrations is the +peculiar birthright of the patriotic Oregonian. The passage from the +Atlantic slope to the Pacific of these first American households bearing +the best embers of western civilization must ever stand as a momentous +event in the annals of time. + +For twenty-eight years, now, surviving participants in this world event +have annually assembled to recount the incidents of their coming to +Oregon, to live over that trying but hallowed time, to rekindle old +flames of friendship and form new ties on the basis of their common +experiences. At these meetings of the Oregon pioneers there was always +an “occasional address” in which the reminiscences of the immigration of +some particular year were given. As the journal of the association puts +it, the object of the association “should be to collect reminiscences +relating to pioneers and the early history of the territory; to promote +social intercourse, and cultivate the life-enduring friendships that in +many instances had been formed while making the long, perilous journey +of the wide, wild plains, which separated the western boundary of +civilization thirty years ago from the land which they had resolved to +reclaim.” The biographical notices contained in the transactions of +their association all mark this coming to Oregon as a dividing event in +the lives of their subjects. That generation of Oregonians suffered +something like a transfiguration through this movement, which also +widened the nation’s outlook—in making it face a greater sea. These +transforming influences wrought their effects during the summer season +that each successive immigration spent on the Oregon trail, while +journeying in canvas-topped oxen-drawn wagons from the banks of the +Missouri to those of the Willamette. The greatest epochal expansion of +the nation was insured through these migrations at the same time that +the participants were translating their lives to a new sphere. + +[Illustration: + + 1.—Near the site of Fort Kearney on the Platte. (Part of pontoon + bridge is used as road fence.) +] + +For engaging and vivid detail of experiences in this movement, recourse +must be had to the transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Association, and +to journals kept on the way across the plains. These will ever have an +interest for the heart of man as they show life under heroic impulse and +in trying conditions long sustained. The whole movement Oregonward has +an epic unity, and when its significance has become fully manifest will +challenge the powers of the national poet. + +But the movement has not yet, even in its outward aspects, been viewed +as a whole. To mark off its limits in time, in routes taken, in numbers +and population elements involved; to note the main motives, the forms of +characteristic experiences; in a word to make, as it were, a composite +view with relation to national history as a background,—would seem to be +the first step for realizing the due appreciation of the significance of +the work of the Oregon pioneers. A sketch of the outlines of the +movement in its more salient features, then, is what is attempted here, +with the hope that such setting forth of the movement as a whole, with +outlines more or less closely defined, will lead to its being brought +fully into relation with the general course of events of American +history. Until the story of the Oregon movement is thus set forth, the +historians of our national life cannot weave it into its proper +conspicuous relations in their narratives. It has no doubt been largely +due to this lack if the story of this pioneer achievement in available +form that a somewhat undue estimate of Doctor Whitman’s services and the +acceptance of mythical accretions to them have come about. The Whitman +story was early available and was made to do service in accounting for a +larger outcome than facts warranted. + +The Oregon migrations effected at one sweep a two thousand mile +extension of the Aryan movement westward in the occupation of the north +temperate zone—“a far-flung” outpost of occupation and settlement. To +appreciate the boldness, intrepidity and consummate effectiveness of +such pioneering we have but to note that no previous extension had +compassed one-fourth this distance. Nor were the conditions in this +instance easy. One continuous stretch of Indian country infested with +most formidable predatory tribes had to be passed through. Conditions +approximating those of a desert had to be faced during a large part of +the migration. There were swift rivers to ford or ferry, and three +mountain ranges to scale. Only one form of the usual difficulties of +pioneer road-making did not appear. There were no extensive forests to +penetrate except on the ridges of the Blue and the Cascade Mountains. + +The settlements of the blue grass region of Kentucky, and the Nashville +district, in Western Tennessee, were, when first made, the most isolated +from the main body of the American people. Yet, these had less than a +four-hundred mile stretch between them and the settled region of the +Atlantic slope. No other outward movement of Aryan people ever covered +anything like the distance made by the Oregon pioneers on the Oregon +trail. Measured by the sea voyage, the Oregon settlements were a leap of +seventeen thousand miles. + +[Illustration: + + 2.—“LONE OR COURT HOUSE ROCK.” +] + +Though the Oregon pioneers traced the first trail across the continent, +adapting for sections of it the lines of travel of fur trading +expeditions; yet, were it not for the title of Francis Parkman’s +narrative (which, however, has only the slightest references to anything +pertaining to its title), I am not sure but that the very name would +have been lost to all except Oregonians. The meagerness of Parkman’s +presentation of the transcontinental movement is easily accounted for. +He did not take his trip of roughing it to Fort Laramie and the Black +Hills, in 1846, to see the Oregon pioneers. His plans to write the +history of the new France in America tended to narrow his interest +strictly to aspects of Indian life as they were with the Indian in his +original state. He was concerned solely during his life on the plains to +get that insight into Indian character and customs that he might +interpret the records of the relations of the French with them, and give +his narrative in his great life work truth, life, and color. Had he been +inclined to associate himself with the westward moving trains, and to +enter into their life and thought, his “Oregon Trail” would naturally +have been a final characterization of the migrations up to the stage +they had assumed at that time. There are, however, indications in some +of his references to the pioneers that their necessarily _deshabille_ +condition while en route, and the astounding and almost reckless +character of their undertaking were by him set in contrast with the +steady comfortable ways of the New England folk from which he hailed and +the Oregonians correspondingly disparaged. In this he would be bringing +a pioneer phase of civilization into comparison with a more finished +form. The wayfaring pioneers were still marking out wider and more +natural limits for the national home, while the New Englanders were +advancing the arts of life on the original nucleus of national +territory. But who can say to which the nation in its destiny owes the +more? + +Two years ago there appeared a book of five hundred and twenty-nine +pages written by Colonels Henry Inman and William F. Cody, bearing the +title, “The Great Salt Lake Trail.” In its preface there is to be +found the following comment on its title: “Over this historical +highway the Mormons made their lonely hegira. * * * Over this route, +also, were made those world renowned expeditions by Fremont, +Stansbury, Lander, and others of lesser fame, to the heart of the +Rocky Mountains, and beyond, to the blue shores of the Pacific Ocean. +Over the same trackless waste the pony express executed those +marvelous feats in annihilating distance, and the once famous overland +stage lumbered along through the seemingly interminable desert of sage +brush and alkali dust—_avant-courieres_ of the telegraph and the +railroad.” + +The body of the book touches upon topics ranging in time from Jonathan +Carver’s explorations in 1766-’68 to the building of the Union Pacific +Railroad. Its map lays “The Old Salt Lake Trail” exactly on the route of +the Oregon trail as far as Fort Bridger, in Southwestern Wyoming. But +the Oregon migrations are not hinted at by a single word in the body of +the book. The authors’ account of them could not have been crowded out +by more weighty matters, as all the disjointed fragments of Indian +hunting and fighting and drunken carousal, whether happening on the line +of the trail or not, are crowded in. Either the story of the Oregon +movement during the thirties, forties and fifties was absolutely unknown +to Colonels Inman and Cody, or, if known, thought worthy of relegation +to oblivion by them. + +In interviews last summer with people living along the line of the +trail, only those whose experiences extended back to the time of the +Oregon migrations recognized the trail as the Oregon trail. It was +always the “California trail” or the “Mormon trail.” + +[Illustration: + + 3.—The North Fork of Platte—its sandy bottom exposed. +] + +It is, of course, to be conceded that more people traveled this road to +California than to Oregon. But the Oregon movement was first in time. By +it the feasibility of the route was demonstrated, and people susceptible +to the western fever were accustomed to think of the trip across the +plains in a way that brought them when the cry of California gold was +raised, or when as Mormon converts they were longing for a refuge from +molestation. Then, too, the Oregon pioneers not only led the way; they +decided our destiny Pacificward. It is time that history was conferring +its award of justice to them. The highway they opened to the greater +sea, and which their march made glorious, should take its name from them +and thus help to commemorate unto coming generations the momentous +import of their achievement for all the future of mankind. + +The transcontinental movement as a march of civilization to the west +shore of the continent was in its incipiency a missionary enterprise. +There is hardly any doubt, however, but that the home-seeking pioneer +would have been on the way just as soon without the initiative of the +missionary heroes and heroines. It is, nevertheless, the lasting glory +of the Presbyterian and Congregational denominations that under the +auspices of their missionary board the first American families +successfully made the passage that was to sweep such a marvelous +movement into its train. The Methodist Episcopal missionary enterprise +antedated all others and played a conspicuous role in the political +organization of the Oregon community, but it was not first in setting up +the American home. So long as it lacked that it could not bear an +American civilization, which was the crucial matter. It was Whitman who +demonstrated the possibility of taking households across the plains, and +this achievement, too, was a decisive initiative. + +But how did the impulse to make this dangerous and arduous journey to +the then far-off wilderness of Oregon originate with the missionary and +the home-seeking pioneers? The inception of the Oregon movement in both +its missionary and its pioneering aspects is best understood when viewed +as outbursts of missionary zeal and energy and pioneer daring and +restlessness from vast stores of potential missionary and pioneer spirit +existing in this country in the thirties. Missionary activity in the +direction of Oregon was liberated by something like a spark, or, to +change the metaphor, by a “long-distance” “Macedonian cry.” A delegation +of four Nez Perces Indians from the upper waters of the Columbia arrived +in St. Louis in 1832 in search of “the white man’s Book of Heaven.” An +account of this singularly unique mission was published in the +newspapers of the time. The story was made all the more effective and +thrilling, with those of deep religious sensibilities, through its +including what purported to be a verbatim report of a most pathetic +farewell address made in General Clark’s office by one of the two +surviving members of this mission. + +The closing passage of the speech, as it has been handed down, is as +follows: + +“We are going back the long, sad trail to our people. When we tell them, +after one more snow, in the big council that we did not bring the Book, +no word will be spoken by our old men, nor by our young braves. One by +one they will rise up and go out in silence. Our people will die in +darkness, and they will go on the long path to other hunting grounds. No +white man will go with them, and no Book of Heaven to make the way +plain. We have no more words.” + +The missionary boards of several Protestant denominations were already +establishing foreign missions in Africa, India, and among the western +North American Indians. Hall J. Kelley had been agitating the cause of +the Oregon Indians for half-a-generation. An appeal for missionary help +so pathetic, so unheard of, and withal shedding such luster on those +from whom it came, as was that of the Nez Perces delegation to St. +Louis, could not fail to bring forth a missionary movement towards +Oregon. + +[Illustration: + + 4.—“CHIMNEY ROCK.” +] + +The spirit that materialized in the Oregon pioneer movement was not +kindled by any special spark like that which called forth the missionary +enterprises. Nor was it aroused by anything like the cry of gold that +brought on the mad rush to California in ’49 and the early fifties. The +Oregon migrations were the outcome of cool, calm, reasoned +determination. This characterized the movement collectively as well as +individually. + +In a sense, the Oregon movement was in preparation from the time when in +1636 Puritan congregations were led by Hooker and others from the +vicinity of Boston westward through the forests to the banks of the +Connecticut. This initial western movement was communicated along the +Atlantic coast settlements by the Scotch-Irish crossing the Blue Ridge +Mountains in Pennsylvania, and by the Virginians penetrating to the +Shenandoah Valley. Some would say that an instinct to move west has been +growing in strength among civilized peoples since about 1000 B. C., when +the Phœnicians moved west on the Mediterranean to found Carthage, and +the Greeks to plant colonies in southern Italy and at Marseilles. + +So largely had pioneering been the mode of life of those who were living +in the western zone of settlement in the United States in 1840 that it +was almost a cult with them. The traditions of each family led through +the Cumberland Gap or west to Pittsburg and down the Ohio, or along the +line of the Great Lakes. Hon. W. Lair Hill, in his “Annual Address” +before the Pioneer Association in 1883, fitly characterizes the people +among whom the Oregon movement took its rise. “The greater number of +them were pioneers by nature and occupation, as their fathers had been +before them. In childhood the story of their ancestors’ migrations from +the east to the west, and then to the newer west was their handbook of +history. Homer or Virgil, of whom few of them had ever heard, could have +rehearsed no epic half so thrilling to their ears as the narratives of +daring adventure and hairbreadth escapes, which, half true and half +false, ever form the thread of frontier history. They knew nothing of +Hector and Achilles, but they knew of Daniel Boone, who, Lord Byron +said, ‘was happiest among mortals anywhere,’ whom civilization drove out +of Pennsylvania by destroying the red deer and black bear, and who, +after some years of solid comfort in his log cabin amid the wilds of +Kentucky, was again pursued and overtaken by the same relentless enemy +and compelled to retire into the Missouri wilderness, beyond the +Mississippi; and who, even in that distant retreat, was soon forced to +say to his friend and companion, according to current anecdote, ‘I was +compelled to leave Kentucky because people came and settled so close +around me I had no room to breathe. I thought when I came out here I +should be allowed to live in peace; but this is all over now. A man has +taken up a farm right over there, within twenty-five miles of my door.’ +Of Boone, and such as Boone, most of them who founded the commonwealth +of Oregon, knew much more than of the great names of literature, +statesmanship, or arms, and their minds dwelt fondly on the exploits of +the frontiersman, whether in the contests with the savages or the chase. +More familiar with the log cabin than with the palace, with the rifle +than with the spindle and loom, with saddle than with the railway, they +felt cramped when the progress of empire in its westward way put +restraint upon those habits of life to which they were accustomed.” + +[Illustration: + + 5.—“CASTLE AND STEAMBOAT ROCKS.” +] + +Knowledge of a “new country” was sure to create in them an almost +irrepressible longing to move on. Such natures as these furnished the +best culture conditions in which to develop an Oregon movement with the +reports explorers and travelers brought from the far Pacific Coast +region. Such Oregon material had early been disseminated among these +susceptible people. The journal of the Lewis and Clark expedition was +published in 1814 and distributed far and wide as a government document. +Pioneers speak of reading it as boys and of becoming permanently +interested in the Oregon Country. The journal of Patrick Gass, a +sergeant in the company of Lewis and Clark, fell into the hands of +others and stirred their imaginations. From 1817 on until 1832 Hall J. +Kelley, a Boston schoolmaster, was compiling and distributing +information designed to awaken a desire to join in a movement to +establish a civilized community in Oregon. His society is said to have +had thirty-seven agents scattered through the union. An Oregon question +became a subject of negotiation between Great Britain and the United +States in 1818. These negotiations were renewed in 1824, 1827 and 1842. +The occupation of Oregon was proposed in congress in 1821. The subject +was kept before congress almost continuously until 1827, and again from +1837 on. The proposed legislation elicited exhaustive reports and warm +discussions, which were published in the newspapers of the land. The +bill of Dr. Lewis F. Linn, senator from Missouri, introduced in 1842, +with its provision for a grant of six hundred and forty acres of land to +every actual male settler, was naturally a most potent cause of +resolutions to go to Oregon. The fact that during all these years Great +Britain disputed our right to claim the whole of the Oregon Country only +added to the ardor of some who thought of going thither. + +Soon sources of fresh information brought direct from Oregon became +available. St. Louis was the winter rendezvous of representatives of fur +companies and independent trappers who were operating in the Rocky +Mountains. These came in contact with officers and employees of the +Hudson’s Bay Company, and from them secured much information about +Oregon. Nathaniel J. Wyeth conducted two expeditions overland to the +Lower Columbia between 1832 and 1836. Mr. William N. Slacum, who had +been commissioned by President Jackson to visit the North Pacific Coast +to conduct explorations and investigations among the inhabitants of that +region, reported in 1837. Irving’s Astoria was brought out in 1836, and +his Adventures of Captain Bonneville in 1837. In 1838 Jason Lee, the +Methodist missionary, returned to the States, and talked Oregon wherever +he went. His lecture on Oregon in Peoria, Illinois, that year netted an +expedition of thirteen or fourteen persons for Oregon the next. The +leader of this party, Thomas J. Farnham, returned to the East, and in +1841 published a book of travels, which had a wide circulation. Dr. +Elijah White, for several years associated with the Methodist mission +enterprise, but who had returned to his home in New York, received an +appointment in 1842 as sub-Indian agent for Oregon. He immediately began +a canvass for immigrants to Oregon. His party, made up mainly of those +found on the Missouri border ready to start, added one hundred and +twenty-seven to the American population in Oregon. During this same year +Commodore Wilkes’ naval exploring expedition to Oregon returned and +reported. Early in this year, too, Fremont’s overland party was +organized, and was on the trail a short distance in the rear of Doctor +White’s pioneer party. On February 1, 1843, the Linn bill passed the +senate. All the missionaries were sending back letters giving glowing +accounts of the attractions of Oregon. The famous winter ride of Doctor +Whitman from Oregon to Missouri was made in the winter of 1842–3. He did +go to Washington and he urged the importance of American interests in +Oregon upon President Tyler and some of the members of his cabinet. +Returning west in the spring of 1843, he was at the Shawnee mission +school, near Westport, Missouri, while the great migration of 1843 was +forming and filing by. The sight reassured him that Oregon was to be +occupied by American citizens. His thought seemed no longer mainly +concerned with the pioneers getting to Oregon. There would be no trouble +about that. His plans reached forward to include the conditions of a +stable and progressive civilization there. His letters at this time, +after mentioning the number of emigrants, turn to matters that would +determine their condition as proposed settlers. He says: “A great many +cattle are going, but no sheep, from a mistake of what I said in +passing.” And again: “Sheep and cattle, but especially sheep, are +indispensable for Oregon. * * * I mean to impress the Secretary of War +that sheep are more to Oregon’s interests than soldiers.” Doctor +Whitman’s influence had probably not been decisive with many of the +pioneers, possibly not with any, in getting them started, but all the +leaders of that great immigration testify that his services as pilot and +counsellor were most valuable in getting them through. + +[Illustration: + + 6.—“SCOTT’S BLUFF.” +] + +The facts so far marshalled on the origin of the pioneer movement to +Oregon disclose the existence of a people in the Mississippi Valley +competent for the undertaking, and on general principles not disinclined +towards it, whose thought, moreover, had been arrested by some unique +advantages claimed for the Oregon country. But the Oregon movement, like +most migrations, has most light thrown on its origin and motive by an +inquiry into the conditions that made the old home undesirable, and in +some cases even unbearable. + +Not a few came from Missouri, Kentucky and other border slave states +because they were not in sympathy with the institution of slavery. Their +aversion to slave owning placed them at a great disadvantage in those +states. Their families were not recognized as socially the equals of the +more influential portion of society. They were accustomed to labor, and +slavery brought a stigma upon labor. In the cultivation of tobacco and +hemp, the main articles of export, the owner of slave labor had a +decided advantage. The employer of free labor found it exceedingly +difficult to make ends meet. Snubbed in a social way, worsted in +industrial competition, in individual cases they were even mobbed when +they tried to express their anti-slavery sentiments at the polls. Some +of the more nervous of the slave-owning population, too, were impelled +to seek relief in the same movement from the constant dread of a negro +insurrection. + +The “fever and ague” was a dread visitant to very many engaged in +turning over the virgin soil of the Mississippi Valley. In Oregon they +would be free from this curse, so the “fever and ague,” with not a few, +brought on the “Oregon fever.” The frequent recurrence of the awful +scourge of the cholera in the towns of the middle west in the late +forties and early fifties made many, in the hope of safety, more than +willing to brave the dangers and hardships of the journey to Oregon. The +warning signals of approaching old age no doubt were the deciding +influence with some who set out as modern Ponce de Leons in search of +fountains of renewed youth in Oregon. + +[Illustration: + + 7.—“OLD BEDLAM”—SITE OF FORT LARAMIE. +] + +Monetary disturbances had made business stagnant all over the country +from 1837 to 1841. Many had gone to the wall, and had been compelled to +see their homes turned over to others. The hard times were felt keenest +in the then farthest west. They were so far inland that commercial +intercourse with the rest of the world was almost totally cut off. What +traffic they had was carried on by slow, laborious and expensive +processes. Railroad building had not progressed so as to give a hope, +hardly even an intimation, of its wonderful solution of the problem of +maintaining a high civilization far inland. By going to Oregon they +would, as they thought of it, again be on the open shores of the greater +sea, within easy reach of the highway of the civilizations of the world. +Not often, perhaps, were their motives formulated. These were allowed to +rest in their minds in the most naive form of impulse. Col. Geo. B. +Currey, in his “Occasional Address” before the Pioneer Association, in +1887, endorses the following as the best reason he ever got. It was, as +he says, “from a genuine westerner,” who said he came “because the thing +wasn’t fenced in, and nobody dared to keep him out.” + +The western border of Missouri was the natural jumping off place for the +plunge into the wilderness. The settlements there had extended out like +a plank beyond the line of the border elsewhere. The Ohio and the +Missouri, with a short stretch of the Mississippi, had furnished the +line of least resistance to the westward movement. + +Each recurring spring tide from 1842 on witnessed the gathering of hosts +at points on the Missouri, from Independence, near the confluence of the +Kansas with the Missouri, north to what is now Council Bluffs. They were +enamored with one idea, that of making homes in far away Oregon. This +part of the border was also the starting line for the California and the +Mormon migrations. The California movement was only sporadic until 1849. +This was seven years after the Oregon movement had become regular. The +Mormons first struck across the continent in 1847. + +Independence and Westport, just south of the Missouri’s great bend to +the east, were the gateway of the earliest regular travel and traffic +across the plains. These towns are now the suburbs of Kansas City. The +Oregon migrations of 1842 and 1843 were formed exclusively in this +vicinity. The old Santa Fe trail led by these settlements. From these +points, too, the fur trading companies conducted expeditions annually to +the upper waters of the Green River beyond the Rocky Mountains. The +route was up the south side of the Kansas River some fifty miles, then +turning to the right, the river was forded or ferried and a general +northwest course adhered to, more direct for Oregon. + +Beginning in 1844 Saint Joseph, then a thriving border town, situated on +the river some fifty miles to the north of the first jumping off places, +became an important fitting out place. Those who took steamboat passage +to the border would naturally wish to make as much of the distance to +Oregon in that way as possible. The vicinity of Saint Joseph seemed to +furnish excellent facilities for securing the necessary ox teams and +other needs for the trip. The Saint Joseph route, too, was a more direct +one for those coming across the country from Iowa, Illinois and Indiana. +After 1850 the Council Bluffs’ route had the largest transcontinental +travel. Weston and old Fort Kearney, the present Nebraska City, both on +the Missouri, the former between Independence and Saint Joseph and the +latter between Saint Joseph and Council Bluffs were minor points of +departure. Smaller companies would cross the river wherever there was a +ferry. + +[Illustration: + + 8.—The Trail leading down to bottom lands of the Sweetwater. +] + +Steamboating on the treacherous Missouri during those spring seasons +while the tide of emigration was strongly westward set is given a lurid +hue in the journals of the emigrants. The river route was the natural +one for all coming from Ohio and the states to the east, also for many +coming from Indiana. + +One entry made during this part of the trip in 1852 reads as follows: +“We have a bar on our boat, too, and that is visited about as often as +any other place I know of. A son of temperance is a strange animal on +this river, I can assure you. I think there are three or four sons on +the boat, and the rest, about five hundred people, like a dram as often +as I would like to drink a little water. * * * We get a little scared +sometimes, for we hear of so many boats blowing up. There was another +boat blown up at Lexington last Saturday and killed one hundred and +fifty persons, the most of which were emigrants for California and +Oregon. These things make us feel pretty squally, I can assure you, but +it is not the way to be scared beforehand. So we boost our spirits up +and push on. * * * Got to Lexington at 12 o’clock. There we found the +wrecks of the boat that blew up five days ago. There were about two +hundred people aboard, and the nearest we could learn about forty +persons escaped unhurt, about forty were wounded and the balance were +killed.” + +The man who kept this journal fitted out with a company at Saint Joseph. +The company planned to drive up the east side of the Missouri and cross +at old Fort Kearney. But, finding the roads too bad on that route, they +made for a ferry ten miles north of Saint Joseph. I quote from his +account of their experiences in getting across the river: “Went up to +the ferry. Mr. H—‘s and Mr. S—’s wagons went over safe. Then Mr. S—’s +family wagon and five yoke of cattle and all of Mr. S—’s family except +two boys went on the ferry boat, and when they were about one-half way +across the boat began to sink. They tried to drive the cattle off, but +could not in time to save the boat from sinking. My family are still on +the east side and I—S— with his teams. We witnessed the scene and could +do nothing. Mrs. S— and the baby and next youngest were all under water, +but the men of the boat got into the river and took them out, and the +rest of the family got upon the wagon cover and saved themselves from +drowning. A Mr. R— jumped overboard and thought he could swim to shore, +but was drowned. He was one of Mr. S—’s hired hands. By the assistance +of one of the other boats the rest were saved, but we thought from where +we were that it was impossible that they could all be saved. Well, I +paid a man fifteen cents for taking my wife and little children across +in a skiff. They have no skiff at the ferry, but they have three good +ferryboats that they work by hand. But the people here are as near +heathens as they can be, and they go for shaving the emigrants, and then +they spend it for whiskey and get drunk and roll in it. But we are all +over on the west shore of the Missouri and in Indian territory.” + +For those congregated hosts, encamped each early spring at different +points along the banks of the Missouri, and intent as soon as grass had +grown to be sufficient for their stock to sally forth on a two thousand +mile passage to the Valley of the Willamette, the natural features of +the continent pointed out just one general route to travel. This road, +so clearly marked out by the configuration of the country for all using +their mode of conveyance, lay up the Valley of the Platte; its +tributary, the Sweetwater; through South Pass; across to the Valley of +the Snake, the tributary of the Columbia; following down the course of +the Snake to its great bend to the north; across to the Columbia; down +the Columbia to their destination. + +[Illustration: + + 9.—“INDEPENDENCE ROCK.” +] + +Those sections of the trail which constitute connecting links, as it +were, to the grander portions, can be accounted for almost as clearly as +the main sections can. Forage and water must be regularly available to +those traveling with horses, mules or oxen. These must be found in great +abundance by those who are driving considerable droves over long +stretches of arid wastes. In summer months, on the unsettled parched +plains, these resources were insured only along river or creek bottoms. +So in striking out from Independence or Saint Joseph for the Valley of +the Platte to the north, to economize in the distance traveled to the +Oregon goal, and insure supplies of the prime requisites—good water and +grass—their course would be such as to bring them to nightly camps on +the banks of one of the numerous streams flowing into the Kansas. +Passing one they would make for a higher point on the next to the west +so as to keep in a more direct line for Oregon. Fuel, so necessary for +preparing their meals, was in that region found only on the banks of +these streams. Along the Platte, the North Fork, and the Sweetwater +“buffalo chips” sufficed fairly well the need of fuel, except the night +was wet. In moving from the South Pass to the basin of the Columbia, +mountainous country made a direct route impracticable. In the detour to +the southwest the valleys of the tributaries of the Upper Green were +utilized, and particularly the most convenient northwest course of the +Bear River. The details of the course in this detour were determined by +the stepping stones, as it were, of water, grass and wood. These were +found in that desert region, too, only in the river and creek bottoms. +On issuing from the South Pass, then, the valleys of the Little Sandy, +Big Sandy, and the Green itself, had to be followed, with such crossings +from one to the other as were feasible, and were in the interests of +economy in distance, until they struck a tributary coming in from the +west, up which a passage could be made and the divide crossed, bringing +them into the Valley of the Bear, a part of the Great Salt Lake Basin. +The Valley of the Bear has a general northwest direction of some +seventy-five miles from where they usually entered it. It was in every +way a natural road to them to the point where it makes its bend to the +south. At this bend was the first fork made in early times by the +California trail’s turning off to the south. The divide at this point +between the Basin of the Great Salt Lake and the Valley of the Snake was +comparatively easy. The Snake River Valley, with its barren wastes, deep +precipitous canyons, sharp lava rocks, made a trying portion of the +route. There were several optional routes. None so acceptable as the +Platte Valley had furnished. To follow the Snake in its long bend to the +north would have led them far out of their way, so they took the +available valleys of the Burnt and Powder rivers that led them farthest +on their way towards the westerly flowing Umatilla, a tributary of the +Columbia. They thus not only kept on in a comparatively direct line +towards the Valley of the Willamette, but were also afforded water, +grass and wood so necessary for further endurance of the now well fagged +transcontinental wayfarers. But the Blue Mountains lay across this short +cut and gave them their first real experience in climbing steep mountain +sides. From the crest of these mountains the way to their goal lay down +hill, except they chose a road across the Cascade Mountains. But whether +they took the Barlow Road or dared the dangers of the gorge of the +Columbia, the darkest, sternest trials were yet to be faced by the now +weak and famished pioneers. They were, however, veterans now, and if +succored with fresh supplies from settlers in the Willamette Valley and +the strength of their cattle sufficed, no difficulties, however +stupendous, could daunt them. + +[Illustration: + + 10.—WEST END OF INDEPENDENCE ROCK. +] + +On the whole, those home-seeking pioneers, as they lay encamped on the +banks of the Missouri, could congratulate themselves that no specially +stupendous natural obstacles had been interposed in that immense stretch +that lay between them and their destination. There was only the +interminableness of it, and the facts that it was to be entered upon +while the fierce pelting spring storms of wind, rain and hail were +liable to be of daily and nightly occurrence; that muddy sloughs would +cause breakdowns, and freshet-swollen streams would be fraught with +danger; that there would then be four months in which the fierce +burning, blistering sun would have them at its mercy, and a dense, +stifling dust would enhance their misery during the midday hours to the +point of wretchedness, and no bathroom in the evening in which to find +relief; that in the later and almost final days of the journey they +would probably be exposed in approximate nakedness to the searching +blasts of the oncoming winter, fortunate if they were not caught and +held fast in mountain snows. Withal, they knew it would be a lumbering +trudge with ox teams that would take them all summer and far into the +autumn. + +Each recurring spring season family or neighborhood groups who had +determined to try their fortunes in Oregon would move out to one of the +points of departure on the Missouri border. They would soon find +themselves a part of a larger aggregation. Generally there was no more +prearrangement for this meeting than there is among birds that flock for +a migration. All who constituted the company from any one point had +simply selected the same jumping off place. + +When the grass had grown abundant enough to furnish subsistence for +their stock and draft animals, those who were ready with their outfit +would begin to file out on the prairie trails converging upon the main +Oregon road. After having traveled a day or two a halt was called by +those in advance to await the coming up of others who proposed to +undertake the same trip with themselves. The American instinct for +organization would then assert itself, and there was occasion for its +activity. They were in an Indian country. It was not wise to tempt the +predatory propensities of the savages by too much straggling in their +traveling or by too much unwariness in guarding their cattle and horses. +In order to avoid molestation by prowling bands of Pawnees, Otoes, +Cheyennes and Sioux, through whose ranges the trail east of the Rockies +passed, it was necessary to travel in companies of some size and with +such discipline as to be able to establish an effective guard at night +and to make some demonstration of force when encountering considerable +bands of Indian warriors. + +There was much economy, too, in bunching their several droves of loose +stock into a single herd, in having a single lookout for selecting +camping places, in the help that each would receive in case of accidents +that all were liable to. Very essential, too, were organization and +discipline when they came to a bank of a large stream across which their +trail led. With the earlier migrations before printed guide books were +available, organization was necessary to secure the services of a pilot. + +[Illustration: + + 11.—“DEVIL’S GATE,” + + Showing dam for leading out an irrigating ditch. +] + +The first large migrations—those of 1843 and 1844, and even of +1845—erred in attempting to go as one compact body. The difficulty of +securing adequate grazing was much enhanced as the company increased in +size. From this fact and the further fact that in case of a hitch or +accident of any kind in a large company, many would be delayed who could +be of no service in getting things fixed up for a fresh start, it +resulted that twenty or thirty wagons were the maximum limit to the size +of companies that did not chafe under their organization. In later years +six or eight wagons were a normal number for a company. Even in the +earlier migrations, when the Upper Sweetwater was reached and the danger +from the Indians was measurably past, the large companies would divide +up into sections. The earlier migrations, too, took precautions that no +person attached himself to the train unless he was furnished with such +resources as to rations and transportation that he would not likely +become a common burden. + +The records of the migrations give ample corroboration to the truth of +the adage, “Uneasy lies the head, etc.,” and yet these privately penned +diaries disclose comparatively little bickering or unwholesome feeling, +notwithstanding the severe strain human nature was under in the +conditions of this four, five, and sometimes six months’ passage. +Whenever conditions developed making advisable a division of the body +into two or more, the division was made, and all was smooth again. The +documentary material printed in this number of the Quarterly throws +light on this phase of their experience and depicts the unique +proceedings of the pioneers of 1843 in effecting an organization. + +The type of the transcontinental pioneer changed materially after the +gold-seeker was in the majority. From 1849 on the diarist’s account is +not devoid of the tragical. “These plains try and tell all the dark +spots in men,” says Rev. Jesse Moreland in his journal of the trip from +Tennessee to Oregon in 1852. He describes evidence of three executions +for murder by hanging. He says: “As they had nothing to make a gallows +out of, they took two wagon tongues, put them point to point and set a +chair in the middle, and the man stood on the chair till the rope was +tied, and then the chair was taken from under him. This is the third we +have heard of being hanged.” + +Before 1849, while the Oregon movement still constituted the great part +of the transcontinental travel, and a fierce commercial spirit was not +yet dominant, the humanity of the pioneers seemed to stand remarkably +well the strain incident to the experiences on the plains. Their +journals do not reveal half the irritation and demoralization that the +accounts of Parkman and of Coke do in companies that had vastly better +outfits and were passing over the same routes. + +The average company of immigrants in pulling through the miry sloughs of +the Missouri bottom lands in early spring, with only partly broken ox +teams, would break a wagon tongue, an axle tree, or a wheel, and suffer +more or less exasperating delay. The fierce spring storms of rain and +hail would play havoc with their tent coverings, and drench and pelt all +who must stand outside to prevent the teams and stock from stampeding. +These freshets would make impassable, for the time being, the numerous +streams of the Kansas and Nebraska prairies. With the feeling that they +must not over-exert their teams mere trifles even were allowed to delay +them during the first four or five hundred miles of the journey. + +Except they had some one like a Doctor Whitman with them to persistently +urge them to “travel, travel,” as the only condition of getting through, +there would be too much loitering in the early stages of the journey. +Those who entered upon the trip in later years had more nearly an +adequate sense of the vastness of the distance they must cover, and +wasted no time in the initial stages. + +[Illustration: + + 12.—Gap just south of Devil’s Gate—used for the Trail. +] + +Especially the migration of 1849, and to some degree those of 1850 and +1852, were in deepest dismay over the presence among them of the +dreadful scourge of cholera. The trail was lined in places along the +south side of the Platte through the width of rods with mounds of +freshly made graves after these migrations had passed. + +The Hon. F. A. Chenoweth, in his “Occasional Address” before the Oregon +Pioneer Association, in 1882, gives the following account of the ravages +of the cholera among the trains of 1849: + +“But the incidents of hardship which I have noticed were the merest +trifles compared to the terrible calamity that marked with sadness and +trailed in deep desolation over that ill-fated emigration. Very soon +after the assembled throng took up its march over the plains the +terrible wave of cholera struck them in a way to carry utmost terror and +dismay into all parts of the moving mass. + +The number of fatally stricken, after the smoke and dust were cleared +away, was not numerically so frightful as appeared to those who were in +the midst of it. But the name “cholera” in a multitude unorganized and +unnumbered is like a leak in the bottom of a ship whose decks are +thronged with passengers. The disturbed waters of the ocean, the angry +elements of nature, when aroused to fury, are but faint illustrations of +the terror-stricken mass of humanity, when in their midst are falling +with great rapidity their comrades—the strong, the young and the old—the +strength and vigor of youth melting away before an unseen foe. All this +filled our ranks with the utmost terror and gloom. This terrible malady +seemed to spend its most deadly force on the flat prairie east of and +about Fort Laramie. + +One of the appalling effects of this disease was to cause the most +devoted friends to desert, in case of attack, the fallen one. Many a +stout and powerful man fought the last battle alone on the prairie. When +the rough hand of the cholera was laid upon families they rarely had +either the assistance or the sympathy of their neighbors or traveling +companions. + +There was one feature mixed with all this terror that afforded some +degree of relief, and that was that there was no case of lingering +suffering. When attacked, a single day ordinarily ended the strife in +death or recovery. A vast amount of wagons, with beds and blankets, were +left by the roadside, which no man, not even an Indian, would approach +or touch through fear of the unknown, unseen destroyer. + +While there were sad instances of comrades deserting comrades in this +hour of extreme trial, I can not pass this point of my story without +stating that there were many instances of heroic devotion to the sick, +when such attention was regarded as almost equivalent to the offering up +of the well and healthy for the mere hope of saving the sick and dying.” + +Not a few who had purposed to go to California that year turned off on +the Oregon road to escape the contagion which the dense crowd seemed to +afford this disease. Excepting in these cholera years and in 1847 there +were only infrequent cases of mountain fever and forms of dysentery that +were developed in the alkali regions of the mountains. + +[Illustration: + + 13.—“DEVIL’S GATE,” AS SEEN FROM ABOVE. +] + +A train of pioneers with sensible outfit emerging into the valley of the +Platte in a season free from the cholera affliction could almost make it +for a time a grand pleasure excursion. The heat was not yet oppressive, +the roads good, the air exhilarating, the boundless expanse of green +undulating prairie under crystal skies filled them with a sense of +freedom. The exciting buffalo hunt was soon on and afforded them a +welcome addition to a diet exceedingly unvaried at best. After the usual +trudge during the day amid a panorama not yet monotonous the wagons +would be driven to form approximately a circle—the end of the tongue or +the front wheel of one lapping the hind wheel of the wagon in front, +according as a more or less spacious corral was desired. The oxen would +be unyoked and taken to water and then to the selected grazing spot. +Fires would be kindled alongside each wagon outside of the corral for +preparing the evening meal. After it was partaken of there would be an +hour or two before darkness settled down upon them. Then the cattle +would be brought within the corral, if there was the least apprehension +of danger, and all except the guards for the first watch and possibly +the matrons with multitudinous family cares would quickly surrender +themselves to sleep. But congenial groups of young people would +generally have a social hour or two. A blanket or extra wagon covering +was thrown on the ground beside the wagon, and, when rain threatened, +spread under the wagon. (Most were probably without tents other than the +canvas tops of their wagons.) This with something for a covering +sufficed for the beds of the young men and boys. In the morning at a +given signal all were astir—and, if the cattle had not strayed during +the night or been stampeded by Indians, breakfast over, everything was +soon in readiness for falling in, each in his appointed place, and +taking up the march that should bring them a day nearer to their Oregon +home. But this idyllic succession of days very soon developed a very +seamy side. + +The sun’s rays became more and more scorching in their fierceness, the +plains assumed a dull, leaden grayish aspect. The sagebrush and cactus +took the place of the waving grass. The burning sand and stifling dust +became deeper. These the west wind would raise into a cloud continuous +from morning until night. This cloud of sand and dust particles beating +against them at a terrific velocity they had to face all day. Soon eyes +and lips were sore. To relieve the uncomfortable feeling that the +parching air gave the lips they would unwisely be moistened and the +soreness thus extended and deepened. Soon everything was obdurately +begrimed. Rags then were in evidence. Shoes worn so as to no longer +protect the feet. In the dry, scorching air the wagons would develop +loose joints and lose their tires. + +The monotony was relieved by lying by a day now and then during which +the women would wash and mend the clothes and the men repair wagons and +hunt buffalo, the meat of which would be jerked to furnish a supply +after they had passed beyond the limits of the buffalo country. The +buffalo did not commonly range west of the Lower Sweetwater. + +The experiences which the buffalo gave them were not limited to the fine +sport of hunting him and the delicious feasts his steaks afforded. His +presence seemed to kindle into life the old ancestral wildness of the ox +and the horse. Without the least warning some sedate member of a team +would raise his head and give the old racial snort of freedom. This +would kindle the same spark in every animal of the train, and away they +would stampede with wagons, inmates and all, and not to be stopped until +utterly exhausted. In these stampedes people would be run over, bones +would be broken, oxen dehorned, their legs broken, and things demolished +generally. The simple-minded pioneer with any tendency to personify +could not help but believe that the devil had gotten into his hitherto +always tractable animals. I quote a pioneer’s account of a stampede, +though he does not ascribe it to the presence or influence of the +buffalo, as is almost always done: “After passing Devil’s Gate, a +beautiful stretch of road lay before us. All at once the teams broke +into a run—something started them, no one seemed to know what. It was a +regular stampede as to our team. Father and mother were walking; I was +walking also, and some of the children were in the wagon. Away the team +went, the hardest and the wildest running I ever saw. When they stopped +and we caught up with them, we found the children were not hurt, but the +two wheelers were down and one of them dead. It took our team a long +time to get over the scare.” + +[Illustration: + + 14.—“DEVIL’S GATE,” FROM SOME DISTANCE ABOVE. +] + +There was still another condition in which the spirit of the buffalo +made the pioneer show deference to it. This happened when a great horde +of buffalo was on a stampede bearing down upon an emigrant train that +happened to be passing across its trail. The moment was almost enough to +bring dismay to the pioneer. Either the teams of the train were urged +into something of a stampede to get out of line of the horde’s advance, +or a corral was formed and volleys fired into the impending mass to +divide it so as to leave the corral a safe island between a destructive +flood rolling by on either hand. + +Distressing accidents must almost of necessity befall them from their +carrying their loaded guns commingled with household goods on their +wagons. It is not strange that at least half of the journals should have +records of fatalities thus caused. Under the law of mathematical +probabilities, with the frequent occasion there was to remove gun or +blanket thus intermixed, while the members of the family were standing +around the wagon, accidents must occur. The small boy of the family +during this four or five months’ trip had very many occasions to clamber +out of and into the wagon while it was in motion. He, too, would come to +grief with a broken leg. Any ordinary fracture, however, even though +there were no surgeon at hand, would be attended to, so that no +deformity resulted. If the case was one seeming to require an amputation +“a butcher knife and an old dull hand saw” were improvised as surgical +instruments. But I have not found that a patient survived such an +operation and got well. The other great epochal events of family life, +marriages and births, were not infrequent on the trail, and seemed to +cause little distraction. + +The experiences of the pioneers in crossing the rivers in the line of +the trail were very diverse. It is reported of one of the migrations +that they were not compelled to ferry until they reached the Des Chutes +in Oregon. But the migration of 1844 had a serious time even with the +Black Vermillion and Big Blue, tributaries of the Kansas. Where logs +were available they were hollowed out and catamaran rafts made so as to +fit the wheels of a wagon. Sometimes the best wagon boxes would be +selected and caulked and used as flatboats. Where buffalo skins were +plentiful they would be stretched around the wagon box to make it +water-tight. In later stages of the journey, after their teams were more +reliable, it was a common practice to raise the wagon beds several +inches above the bolsters, if the depth of the stream required it, +couple several teams into a train with the most reliable in front on a +lead-rope, and drivers along the down-stream side of the other teams. +They would then ford as trains. After the rush in 1849 ferries were +established at the more important crossings, whose owners reaped rich +harvests. + +[Illustration: + + 15.—The deeply worn Trail along the Sweetwater. +] + +Their route had no rich diversity of scenic grandeur. There are most +impressive natural features along the line of it, but with their slow +mode of travel one phase became exceedingly monotonous before another +was reached. There were the vastness and solitude of the prairies and +plains, the transparency of the atmosphere that gave magnificent sweep +of view. Along the North Fork of the Platte stood great sentinel rocks +with interesting sculptured proportions. Among these are the Lone or +Court House Rock, Chimney Rock, Castle Rock, Steamboat Rock, and Scott’s +Bluff. Farther along on their journey they come to Independence Rock and +Devil’s Gate on the Sweetwater, one a huge basaltic mound upon which +with tar or with iron chisels they would register their names; the other +a most unique breach in a granitic range with sides two hundred feet +high, through which the Sweetwater flows. A week or two later they would +have the exhilarating sense of standing on the backbone of the continent +in South Pass, with the towering Wind River Mountains to their right and +the Oregon buttes to their left. A few miles on they would drink from +the Pacific springs and know they were in what was then called Oregon. +Scenery most unique was still before them on their way. Some of it, like +the panorama from the divide between the Green and the Bear rivers and +the Soda Springs, they would enjoy. But their march from the South Pass +on was a retreat. Oxen would fall helpless in their yokes, wagons would +become rickety beyond repair. The trail was strewn with wreckage, and +the stench from the dead cattle was appalling. The watering places along +the Snake were contaminated by the stock that had perished. As soon as +they reached the Blue Mountains their stock was safe from starvation, +but the exertion required of their way-worn and weak oxen on the steep +grades now before them was the last straw often that these creatures now +could not bear. They could not let them recruit; the season was far +advanced towards winter; they must press on. + +Data for determining the numbers that came across the plains to Oregon +during the successive years are as yet very unsatisfactory. The +estimates given below for 1842 and 1843 are well founded, but the +others, especially from 1847 on, are from no very tangible basis. + +At the close of 1841 the Americans in Oregon numbered possibly four +hundred. + + The immigration of 1842 estimated from 105 to 137 + The immigration of 1843 estimated from 875 to 1,000 + The immigration of 1844 estimated about 700 + The immigration of 1845 estimated about 3,000 + The immigration of 1846 estimated about 1,350 + +The above figures are taken quite closely from those given by Elwood +Evans in his address before the Pioneer Association in 1877. I make the +immigration of 1844, however, seven hundred, instead of four hundred and +seventy-five, as he gives it. + + The immigration of 1847 between 4,000 and 5,000 + The immigration of 1848 about 700 + The immigration of 1849 about 400 + The immigration of 1850 about 2,000 + The immigration of 1851 about 1,500 + The immigration of 1852 about 2,500 + +No doubt this one summer on the plains was an ordeal under which some +sensitive natures were strained and weakened for life. It may be, too, +that living for five or six months, as families, on the simplest, barest +necessities of life, fixed standards of living lower than they otherwise +would have been. The effect, however, on strong, resourceful natures of +these months on the plains could not have been other than salutary. The +pioneers, when they started, were most distinctively American in their +characteristics. As such they needed to be socialized. No better school +could have been devised than the organization and regimen of the trip +across the plains for socializing their natures. + + F. G. YOUNG. + +[Illustration: + + 16.—The “Three Crossings” of the Sweetwater. +] + + + + + A DAY WITH THE COW COLUMN IN 1843. + + By JESSE APPLEGATE. + + (Read before the Oregon Pioneer Association in 1876; reprinted from + transactions of that society.) + + +The migration of a large body of men, women and children across the +continent to Oregon was, in the year 1843, strictly an experiment; not +only in respect to the members, but to the outfit of the migrating +party. Before that date, two or three missionaries had performed the +journey on horseback, driving a few cows with them, three or four wagons +drawn by oxen had reached Fort Hall, on Snake River, but it was the +honest opinion of the most of those who had traveled the route down +Snake River, that no large number of cattle could be subsisted on its +scanty pasturage, or wagons taken over a country so rugged and +mountainous. + +The emigrants were also assured that the Sioux would be much opposed to +the passage of so large a body through their country, and would probably +resist it on account of the emigrants’ destroying and frightening away +the buffaloes, which were then diminishing in numbers. + +The migrating body numbered over one thousand souls, with about one +hundred and twenty wagons, drawn by six-ox teams, averaging about six +yokes to the team, and several thousand loose horses and cattle. + +The emigrants first organized and attempted to travel in one body, but +it was soon found that no progress could be made with a body so +cumbrous, and as yet so averse to all discipline. And at the crossing of +the “Big Blue” it divided into two columns, which traveled in supporting +distance of each other as far as Independence Rock on the Sweetwater. + +From this point, all danger from Indians being over, the emigrants +separated into small parties better suited to the narrow mountain paths +and small pastures in their front. + +Before the division on the Blue River there was some just cause for +discontent in respect to loose cattle. Some of the emigrants had only +their teams, while others had large herds in addition, which must share +the pasture and be guarded and driven by the whole body. This discontent +had its effect in the division on the Blue. Those not encumbered with or +having but few loose cattle attached themselves to the light column; +those having more than four or five cows had of necessity to join the +heavy or cow column. Hence the cow column, being much larger than the +other and much encumbered with its large herds, had to use greater +exertion and observe a more rigid discipline to keep pace with the more +agile consort. It is with the cow column that I propose to journey with +the reader for a single day. + +It is four o’clock A. M.; the sentinels on duty have discharged their +rifles—the signal that the hours of sleep are over—and every wagon and +tent is pouring forth its night tenants, and slow-kindling smokes begin +largely to rise and float away in the morning air. Sixty men start from +the corral, spreading as they make through the vast herd of cattle and +horses that make a semicircle around the encampment, the most distant +perhaps two miles away. + +[Illustration: + + 17.—“Oregon Buttes,”—taken from South Pass. +] + +The herders pass to the extreme verge and carefully examine for trails +beyond, to see that none of the animals have strayed or been stolen +during the night. This morning no trails led beyond the outside animals +in sight, and by 5 o’clock the herders begin to contract the great, +moving circle, and the well-trained animals move slowly towards camp, +clipping here and there a thistle or a tempting bunch of grass on the +way. In about an hour five thousand animals are close up to the +encampment, and the teamsters are busy selecting their teams and driving +them inside the corral to be yoked. The corral is a circle one hundred +yards deep, formed with wagons connected strongly with each other; the +wagon in the rear being connected with the wagon in front by its tongue +and ox chains. It is a strong barrier that the most vicious ox cannot +break, and in case of an attack of the Sioux would be no contemptible +intrenchment. + +From 6 to 7 o’clock is a busy time; breakfast is to be eaten, the tents +struck, the wagons loaded and the teams yoked and brought up in +readiness to be attached to their respective wagons. All know when, at 7 +o’clock, the signal to march sounds, that those not ready to take their +proper places in the line of march must fall into the dusty rear for the +day. + +There are sixty wagons. They have been divided into fifteen divisions or +platoons of four wagons each, and each platoon is entitled to lead in +its turn. The leading platoon today will be the rear one tomorrow, and +will bring up the rear unless some teamster, through indolence or +negligence, has lost his place in the line, and is condemned to that +uncomfortable post. It is within ten minutes of seven; the corral but +now a strong barricade is everywhere broken, the teams being attached to +the wagons. The women and children have taken their places in them. The +pilot (a borderer who has passed his life on the verge of civilization +and has been chosen to the post of leader from his knowledge of the +savage and his experience in travel through roadless wastes), stands +ready, in the midst of his pioneers and aids, to mount and lead the way. +Ten or fifteen young men, not today on duty, form another cluster. They +are ready to start on a buffalo hunt, are well mounted and well armed, +as they need be, for the unfriendly Sioux have driven the buffalo out of +the Platte, and the hunters must ride fifteen or twenty miles to reach +them. The cow drivers are hastening, as they get ready, to the rear of +their charge, to collect and prepare them for the day’s march. + +It is on the stroke of seven; the rush to and fro, the cracking of +whips, the loud command to oxen, and what seemed to be the inextricable +confusion of the last ten minutes has ceased. Fortunately every one has +been found and every teamster is at his post. The clear notes of a +trumpet sound in the front; the pilot and his guards mount their horses; +the leading divisions of the wagons move out of the encampment, and take +up the line of march; the rest fall into their places with the precision +of clock work, until the spot so lately full of life sinks back into +that solitude that seems to reign over the broad plain and rushing river +as the caravan draws its lazy length towards the distant El Dorado. It +is with the hunters we shall briskly canter towards the bold but smooth +and grassy bluffs that bound the broad valley, for we are not yet in +sight of the grander but less beautiful scenery (of Chimney Rock, Court +House and other bluffs, so nearly resembling giant castles and palaces), +made by the passage of the Platte through the highlands near Laramie. We +have been traveling briskly for more than an hour. We have reached the +top of the bluff, and now have turned to view the wonderful panorama +spread before us. To those who have not been on the Platte, my powers of +description are wholly inadequate to convey an idea of the vast extent +and grandeur of the picture, and the rare beauty and distinctness of the +detail. No haze or fog obscures objects in the pure and transparent +atmosphere of this lofty region. To those accustomed only to the murky +air of the seaboard, no correct judgment of distance can be formed by +sight, and objects which they think they can reach in a two hours’ walk +may be a day’s travel away; and though the evening air is a better +conductor of sound, on the high plain during the day the report of the +loudest rifle sounds little louder than the bursting of a cap; and while +the report can be heard but a few hundred yards, the smoke of the +discharge may be seen for miles. So extended is the view from the bluff +on which the hunters stand, that the broad river glowing under the +morning sun like a sheet of silver, and the broader emerald valley that +borders it, stretch away in the distance until they narrow at almost two +points in the horizon, and when first seen, the vast pile of the Wind +River Mountains though hundreds of miles away, looks clear and distinct +as a white cottage on the plain. + +[Illustration: + + 18.—“STEAMBOAT SPRING” ON THE BANKS OF THE BEAR RIVER. +] + +We are full six miles away from the line of march; though everything is +dwarfed by distance, it is seen distinctly. The caravan has been about +two hours in motion and is now as widely extended as a prudent regard +for safety will permit. First, near the bank of the shining river is a +company of horsemen; they seem to have found an obstruction, for the +main body has halted while three or four ride rapidly along the bank of +the creek or slough. They are hunting a favorable crossing for the +wagons; while we look they have succeeded; it has apparently required no +work to make it passable, for all but one of the party have passed on, +and he has raised a flag, no doubt a signal to the wagons to steer their +course to where he stands. The leading teamster sees him, though he is +yet two miles off, and steers his course directly towards him, all the +wagons following in his track. They (the wagons) form a line +three-quarters of a mile in length; some of the teamsters ride upon the +front of their wagons, some march beside their teams; scattered along +the line companies of women are taking exercise on foot; they gather +bouquets of rare and beautiful flowers that line the way; near them +stalks a stately greyhound, or an Irish wolf dog, apparently proud of +keeping watch and ward over his master’s wife and children. Next comes a +band of horses; two or three men or boys follow them, the docile and +sagacious animals scarce needing this attention, for they have learned +to follow in the rear of the wagons, and know that at noon they will be +allowed to graze and rest. Their knowledge of time seems as accurate as +of the place they are to occupy in the line, and even a full-blown +thistle will scarce tempt them to straggle or halt until the dinner hour +has arrived. Not so with the large herd of horned beasts that bring up +the rear; lazy, selfish and unsocial, it has been a task to get them in +motion, the strong always ready to domineer over the weak, halt in the +front and forbid the weak to pass them. They seem to move only in the +fear of the driver’s whip; though in the morning, full to repletion, +they have not been driven an hour before their hunger and thirst seem to +indicate a fast of days’ duration. Through all the long day their greed +is never satisfied, nor their thirst quenched, nor is there a moment of +relaxation of the tedious and vexatious labors of their drivers, +although to all others the march furnishes some season of relaxation or +enjoyment. For the cow drivers there is none. + +But from the standpoint of the hunters, the vexations are not apparent; +the crack of whips and loud objurgation are lost in the distance. +Nothing of the moving panorama, smooth and orderly as it appears, has +more attractions for the eye than that vast square column in which all +colors are mingled, moving here slowly and there briskly, as impelled by +horsemen riding furiously in front and rear. + +[Illustration: + + 19.—“AMERICAN FALLS.” + + Railroad bridge of the “Oregon Short Line.” +] + +But the picture in its grandeur, its wonderful mingling of colors and +distinctness of detail, is forgotten in contemplation of the singular +people who give it life and animation. No other race of men with the +means at their command would undertake so great a journey, none save +these could successfully perform it, with no previous preparation, +relying only on the fertility of their own invention to devise the means +to overcome each danger and difficulty as it arose. They have undertaken +to perform with slow-moving oxen a journey of two thousand miles. The +way lies over trackless wastes, wide and deep rivers, ragged and lofty +mountains, and is beset with hostile savages. Yet, whether it were a +deep river with no tree upon its banks, a rugged defile where even a +loose horse could not pass, a hill too steep for him to climb, or a +threatened attack of an enemy, they are always found ready and equal to +the occasion, and always conquerors. May we not call them men of +destiny? They are people changed in no essential particulars from their +ancestors, who have followed closely on the footsteps of the receding +savage, from the Atlantic seaboard to the great Valley of the +Mississippi. + +But while we have been gazing at the picture in the valley, the hunters +have been examining the high plain in the other direction. Some dark +moving objects have been discovered in the distance, and all are closely +watching them to discover what they are, for in the atmosphere of the +plains a flock of crows marching miles away, or a band of buffaloes or +Indians at ten times the distance look alike, and many ludicrous +mistakes occur. But these are buffaloes, for two have struck their heads +together and are, alternately, pushing each other back. The hunters +mount and away in pursuit, and I, a poor cow-driver, must hurry back to +my daily toil, and take a scolding from my fellow herders for so long +playing truant. + +The pilot, by measuring the ground and timing the speed of the wagons +and the walk of his horses, has determined the rate of each, so as to +enable him to select the nooning place, as nearly as the requisite grass +and water can be had at the end of five hours’ travel of the wagons. +Today, the ground being favorable, little time has been lost in +preparing the road, so that he and his pioneers are at the nooning place +an hour in advance of the wagons, which time is spent in preparing +convenient watering places for the animals, and digging little wells +near the bank of the Platte, as the teams are not unyoked, but simply +turned loose from the wagons, a corral is not formed at noon, but the +wagons are drawn up in columns, four abreast, the leading wagon of each +platoon on the left, the platoons being formed with that in view. This +brings friends together at noon as well as at night. + +[Illustration: + + 20.—Near summit of Blue Mountains—Meacham Station of O. R. & N. R. R. + on the Trail, and site of “Lee Encampment.” +] + +Today an extra session of the council is being held, to settle a dispute +that does not admit of delay, between a proprietor and a young man who +has undertaken to do a man’s service on the journey for bed and board. +Many such engagements exist, and much interest is taken in the manner in +which this high court, from which there is no appeal, will define the +rights of each party in such engagements. The council was a high court +in the most exalted sense. It was a senate composed of the ablest and +most respected fathers of the emigration. It exercised both legislative +and judicial powers, and its laws and decisions proved it equal and +worthy of the high trust reposed in it. Its sessions were usually held +on days when the caravan was not moving. It first took the state of the +little commonwealth into consideration; revised or repealed rules +defective or obsolete, and enacted such others as the exigencies seemed +to require. The common weal being cared for, it next resolved itself +into a court to hear and settle private disputes and grievances. The +offender and the aggrieved appeared before it; witnesses were examined, +and the parties were heard by themselves and sometimes by counsel. The +judges being thus made fully acquainted with the case, and being in no +way influenced or cramped by technicalities, decided all cases according +to their merits. There was but little use for lawyers before this court, +for no plea was entertained which was calculated to hinder or defeat the +ends of justice. Many of these judges have since won honors in higher +spheres. They have aided to establish on the broad basis of right and +universal liberty two pillars of our great Republic in the Occident. +Some of the young men who appeared before them as advocates have +themselves sat upon the highest judicial tribunals, commanded armies, +been governors of states and taken high position in the senate of the +nation. + +It is now one o’clock; the bugle has sounded and the caravan has resumed +its westward journey. It is in the same order, but the evening is far +less animated than the morning march; a drowsiness has fallen apparently +on man and beast; teamsters drop asleep on their perches and even when +walking by their teams, and the words of command are now addressed to +the slowly creeping oxen in the soft tenor of women or the piping treble +of children, while the snores of the teamsters make a droning +accompaniment. But a little incident breaks the monotony of the march. +An emigrant’s wife, whose state of health has caused Doctor Whitman to +travel near the wagon for the day, is now taken with violent illness. +The Doctor has had the wagon driven out of the line, a tent pitched and +a fire kindled. Many conjectures are hazarded in regard to this +mysterious proceeding, and as to why this lone wagon is to be left +behind. And we too must leave it, hasten to the front and note the +proceedings, for the sun is now getting low in the west and at length +the painstaking pilot is standing ready to conduct the train in the +circle which he has previously measured and marked out, which is to form +the invariable fortification for the night. The leading wagons follow +him so nearly around the circle that but a wagon length separates them. +Each wagon follows in its track, the rear closing on the front, until +its tongue and ox chains will perfectly reach from one to the other, and +so accurate the measure and perfect the practice, that the hindmost +wagon of the train always precisely closes the gateway, as each wagon is +brought into position. It is dropped from its team (the teams being +inside the circle), the team unyoked and the yokes and chains are used +to connect the wagon strongly with that in its front. Within ten minutes +from the time the leading wagon halted, the barricade is formed, the +teams unyoked and driven out to pasture. Every one is busy preparing +fires of buffalo chips to cook the evening meal, pitching tents and +otherwise preparing for the night. There are anxious watchers for the +absent wagon, for there are many matrons who may be afflicted like its +inmate before the journey is over; and they fear the strange and +startling practice of this Oregon doctor will be dangerous. But as the +sun goes down the absent wagon rolls into camp, the bright, speaking +face and cheery look of the doctor, who rides in advance, declare +without words that all is well, and both mother and child are +comfortable. I would fain now and here pay a passing tribute to that +noble and devoted man, Doctor Whitman. I will obtrude no other name upon +the reader, nor would I his were he of our party or even living, but his +stay with us was transient, though the good he did was permanent, and he +has long since died at his post. + +[Illustration: + + 21.—Falls of the Willamette—the objective point of the pioneers. +] + +From the time he joined us on the Platte until he left us at Fort Hall, +his great experience and indomitable energy were of priceless value to +the migrating column. His constant advice, which we knew was based upon +a knowledge of the road before us, was, “Travel, _travel_, TRAVEL; +nothing else will take you to the end of your journey; nothing is wise +that does not help you along; nothing is good for you that causes a +moment’s delay.” His great authority as a physician and complete success +in the case above referred to, saved us many prolonged and perhaps +ruinous delays from similar causes, and it is no disparagement to others +to say that to no other individual are the emigrants of 1843 so much +indebted for the successful conclusion of their journey as to Dr. Marcus +Whitman. + +All able to bear arms in the party have been formed into three +companies, and each of these into four watches; every third night it is +the duty of one of these companies to keep watch and ward over the camp, +and it is so arranged that each watch takes its turn of guard duty +through the different watches of the night. Those forming the first +watch tonight will be second on duty, then third and fourth, which +brings them through all the watches of the night. They begin at 8 +o’clock P. M., and end at 4 o’clock A. M. + +It is not yet 8 o’clock when the first watch is to be set; the evening +meal is just over, and the corral now free from the intrusion of cattle +or horses, groups of children are scattered over it. The larger are +taking a game of romps; “the wee toddling things” are being taught that +great achievement that distinguishes man from the lower animals. Before +a tent near the river a violin makes lively music, and some youths and +maidens have improvised a dance upon the green; in another quarter a +flute gives its mellow and melancholy notes to the still night air, +which, as they float away over the quiet river, seem a lament for the +past rather than a hope for the future. It has been a prosperous day; +more than twenty miles have been accomplished of the great journey. The +encampment is a good one; one of the causes that threatened much future +delay has just been removed by the skill and energy of that “good angel” +of the emigrants, Doctor Whitman, and it has lifted a load from the +hearts of the elders. Many of these are assembled around the good doctor +at the tent of the pilot (which is his home for the time being), and are +giving grave attention to his wise and energetic counsel. The care-worn +pilot sits aloof, quietly smoking his pipe, for he knows the brave +doctor is “strengthening his hands.” + +[Illustration: + + 22.—The Union Pacific Building, Omaha,—site of one of the “jumping + off” points for Oregon. +] + +But time passes; the watch is set for the night; the council of old men +has been broken up, and each has returned to his own quarter; the flute +has whispered its last lament to the deepening night; the violin is +silent, and the dancers have dispersed; enamored youth have whispered a +tender “good night” in the ear of blushing maidens, or stolen a kiss +from the lips of some future bride—for Cupid here, as elsewhere, has +been busy bringing together congenial hearts, and among these simple +people he alone is consulted in forming the marriage tie. Even the +doctor and the pilot have finished their confidential interview and have +separated for the night. All is hushed and repose from the fatigues of +the day, save the vigilant guard and the wakeful leader, who still has +cares upon his mind that forbid sleep. He hears the 10 o’clock relief +taking post and the “all well” report of the returned guard; the night +deepens, yet he seeks not the needed repose. At length a sentinel +hurries to him with the welcome report that a party is approaching—as +yet too far away for its character to be determined, and he instantly +hurries out in the direction in which it was seen. This he does both +from inclination and duty, for in times past the camp had been +unnecessarily alarmed by timid or inexperienced sentinels, causing much +confusion and fright amongst women and children, and it had been a rule +that all extraordinary incidents of the night should be reported +directly to the pilot, who alone had the authority to call out the +military strength of the column, or of so much of it as was in his +judgment necessary to prevent a stampede or repel an enemy. Tonight he +is at no loss to determine that the approaching party are our missing +hunters, and that they have met with success, and he only waits until by +some further signal he can know that no ill has happened to them. This +is not long wanting. He does not even await their arrival, but the last +care of the day being removed, and the last duty performed, he too seeks +the rest that will enable him to go through the same routine tomorrow. +But here I leave him, for my task is also done, and unlike his, it is to +be repeated no more. + + +NOTE—A CORRECTION—Col. George B. Currey was the author of “The Tribute +to the Ox Whip,” not Col. George L. Curry, as printed in this number. + + + + + COL. GEORGE L. CURRY’S TRIBUTE TO THE OX WHIP. + + (Reprinted from Transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Association.) + + +My task is to call from dust and dark forgetfulness that advance banner +of Americanism and progress—the ox whip. Its crack was the command +“Forward to the nation.” Its sharp, keen accent proclaimed that +obstacles to prayers must be overcome. It waved aloft on the prairies of +the “Old West,” and pointing to the new, a vast throng took up the +westward march, which, keeping step to the music of destiny, dashed +across the broad Missouri, rolled a living tide up the grassy slope of +the Platte, scaled the imperial heights of the Rocky Mountains, and with +“the tread of a giant and shout of a conquerer” defied the heat, dust, +thirst and hunger, the desert heart of the continent, leaped the Blue +Mountains, paused but quailed not on the banks of the deep, wide +Columbia, where again the potential crack is heard and the mighty, +“rock-ribbed” walls of the Cascades are stormed, and as the line rolls +bravely over the giddy summit the exultant driver gives a grand +triumphant crack into the stolid face of grand old Hood, the storm-clad +sentinel of the mountain fastness. The people have reached their goal. +The spell is broken. The errand has lost its magic, its mission has been +accomplished. A state, with freedom’s diadem effulgent on its brow +salutes the eye, and dipping its young hand in the Pacific completes the +baptism of human liberty and proclaims an “ocean-bound republic.” All +hail and honor to the ox whip, the symbol of the grand, achieving force +of its age. + +[Illustration: + + 23.—Street, Oregon City,—about where the pioneers broke ranks. +] + + + + + THE CAMP FIRES OF THE PIONEERS. + + + _VINCERE EST VIVERE!_ + + By SAM L. SIMPSON. + + [Reprinted from Transactions of Pioneer Association.] + + Striking at ease his epic lyre, + The laureled Mantuan has sung + Beleagured Troy’s illustrious pyre— + The daring sail Æneas flung + To wayward gales, the voyage long + That tracks the silver wave of song; + Until the worn and weary oar + Has kissed the far Lavinian shore; + The Argo’s classic pennon streams + Along sweet horizons of dreams,— + The Mayflower has furled her wings, + And restfully at anchor swings— + Columbia chants to columned seas + The triumph of the Genoese, + And yet, stout hearts, no fitting meed + Of panegyric crowns your deed + From which a stately empire springs. + + The minions of a perfumed age + Already crowd upon the stage,— + The massive manhood of the past + In many a graceful mould is cast; + And yet with calm and kindly eyes + You view the feast for others spread, + And hail the blue benignant skies + Resigned and grandly comforted. + It was for this you broke the way + Before the sunset gates of day— + For this, with godlike faith endued, + You scaled the misty crags of fate, + And, with resounding labors, hewed + The Doric pillars of the state. + + There is no task for you to do— + Your tents are furled, the bugle blown— + But yet another day, and you + Will live in clustered fame alone. + The fir will chant a song of rue, + The pine will drop a wreath, may be, + And o’er the dim Cascades the stars + Will nightly roll the gleaming cars + You followed well from sea to sea. + Before your scarred battalion’s wheel + Into the mystic realm of shade, + And on your grizzled brows the seal + Of mystery is softly laid, + Once more around your old campfires, + That smoulder like fulfilled desires, + Rehearse the story of your toils + Display the hero crowned with spoils— + The glimmer of triumphant steel, + Beneath the garland and the braid. + + O, further than the legions bore + The eagles of Imperial Rome— + Three thousand miles, a weary march, + You followed Hesper’s golden torch, + Until it stooped on this green shore, + And lit the rosy fires of home. + It was a solemn morn you turned + And quenched the sacred flames that burned + On hearths endeared for years and years; + It seemed your very souls grew dark + With those sweet fires—the latest spark + Was drowned in bitter, bitter tears. + A softer, sweeter sunlight wrapt + The forms of all familiar things, + And as each cord of feeling snapt + Another angel furled its wings: + The lights and shadows in the lane, + The oak beside the foot-worn stile + Whose wheeling shades a weary while + Had told the hours of joy and pain— + The vine that clambered o’er the door + And many a purple cluster bore— + The vestal flowers of household love— + The sloping roof that wore the stain + Of summer sun and winter rain, + And smoky chimney tops above— + The beauty of the orchard trees, + Bedecked with blossoms, glad with bees— + The brook that all the livelong day + Had many things to sing and say— + All these upon your vision dwell + And weave the sorrow of farewell. + + And now the last good-bye is said— + Good-bye! the living and the dead + In those sad words together speak, + And all your chosen ways are bleak! + Forward! The cracking lashes send + A thrill of action down the train,— + Their brawny necks the oxen bend + With creaking yoke and clanking chain; + The horsemen gallop down the line, + And swerve around the lowing kine + That straggle loosely on the plain— + And lift glad hands to babes that laugh + And dash the buttercups like chaff. + Hurrah! the skies are jewel blue— + In tasseled green and braided gold + The robes of April are enrolled, + + And hopes are high and hearts are true! + Hurrah! hurrah! the bold, the free— + The sudden sweep of ecstacy + That lifts the soul on wings of fire, + When fears consume and doubts expire, + And life, in one red torrent, leaps + To join the march of boundless deeps! + + And now the sun is dropping down + And lights and shadows, red and brown + Are weaving sunset’s purple spell: + The teams are freed, the fires are made, + Like scarlet night flow’rs in the shade, + And pleasant groups before, between, + Are thronging in the fitful sheen— + The day is done, and “all is well.” + + So pass the days, so fall the nights; + A banquet of renewed delights; + The old horizons lift and pass + In magic changes like a dream, + And in the heavens’ azure glass + Tomorrow’s jasper arches gleam— + With many a vale and mountain mass, + And many a singing, shining stream. + The post is dead and daisied now— + In shadow fades from heart and brow— + The air is incense, and the breeze + Is sweet with siren melodies, + And all the castled hills before + In blooming vistas sweep and soar + Like silver lace, the clouds are strewn + Along the distant, dreamy zone; + It is a happy, happy time, + As wayward as a poet’s rhyme, + And ever as the sun goes down + The west is shut with rosy bars, + And Night puts on her golden crown + And fills the vases of the stars. + + · · · · · + + A hundred nights, a hundred days, + Nor folded cloud nor silken haze + Mellow the sun’s midsummer blaze. + Along a brown and barren plain + In silence drags the wasted train; + The dust starts up beneath your tread, + Like angry ashes of the dead, + To blind you with a choking cloud + And wrap you in a yellow shroud. + There are no birds to sing your joy, + You have no joy for birds to sing,— + A hundred fangs your hearts destroy— + A thousand troubles fret and sting. + The desert mocks you all the while + With that dry shimmer of a smile + That dazzles on a bleaching skull,— + + The bloom is withered on your cheek + You slowly move and lowly speak, + And every eye is dim and dull. + Alas, it is a lonesome land + Of bitter sage and barren sand + Under a bitter, barren sky + That never heard the robin sing, + Nor kissed the larks’s exultant wing, + Nor breathed a rose’s fragrant sigh! + A weary land—alas! alas! + The shadows of the vultures pass— + A spectral sign across your path; + The gaunt, gray wolf, with head askance + Throws back at you a scowlling glance + Of cringing hate and coward wrath. + And like a wraith accursed and banned + Fades out before your lifted hand; + A dim, sad land, forgot, forsworn + By all bright life that may not mourn— + Acrazed with glist’ning ghosts of seas + In broideries of flower and trees, + And rivers, blue and cool, that seem + To ripple as in fevered dream— + Only to taunt the thirst, and fly + From withered lips and lurid eye. + + A hundred days, a hundred nights— + The goal is farther than before, + And all the changing shades and lights + Are wrought in fancy’s woof no more. + The sun is weary overhead, + And pallid deserts round you spread + A sorrowful eternity; + And if some grisly mountain here + Confront your march with forms of fear, + You turn aside and pass them by. + And all are overworn—the flesh + Is now a frayed and faded mesh + That will not mask the inward flame; + There is no longer any care + To round the speech, or speak men fair, + Or any gentle sense of shame; + The hearts of all are shifted through— + The grain drops through the windy husks + And false lights flick’ring round the true + Are quenched at last in dews and dusk. + And some are silent, some are loud + And rage like beasts among the crowd,— + And some are mild, and some are sharp + In word and deed, and snarl and carp, + And fret the camp with petty broils; + And some of temper, sweet and bland, + Do seem to bear a magic wand + That wins the secret of their toils— + Rare souls that waste like sandal-wood + In many a fragrant deed and mood; + And some invoke the wrath of God, + + Or feign to kiss the burning rod,— + And some, may be, with better prayers, + Stand up in all their griefs and cares + And clinch their teeth, and do and die + Without a whine, a curse or cry. + And so the dust and grit and stain + Of travel wears into the grain; + And so the hearts and souls of men + Were darkly tried and tested then + That, in the happy after years, + When rainbows gild remembered tears, + Should any friend inquire of you + If such or such an one you knew— + I hear the answer, terse and grim, + “Ah, yes; I crossed the plains with him!” + + And, lo! a moaning phantom stands, + To greet you in the lonely lands, + Among all lesser shadows, dight + With spoils of death; his meager hands + Salute you as you pass, and claim + The sacrifice that feeds his flame. + The march has broken into flight, + And wreck and ruin strew the road + The flaming phantom has bestrode; + The ox lies gasping in his yoke + Beside the wagon that he drew— + Where the forsaken campfires smoke + To hopeless skies of tawny blue; + And here are straight, still mounds that mark + The flight of life’s delusive spark— + The somber points of pause that lie + So thick in human destiny. + And oh, so dark on this bleak page + Of drifting sand and dreary sage! + The sultry levels of the day, + The night with weird enchantment fills, + And frowning forests stretch away + Along the slopes of shadow hills; + And in the solemn stillness breaks + The wild-wolf music of the plain, + As if a deeper sorrow wakes + The dreary dead in that refrain + That swells and gathers like a wail + Of woe from Pluto’s ebon pale, + And sinks in pulseless calm again. + + A change at last!—an opal mist + Along the faint horizon’s rim + Is banked against the amethyst + Of summer sky—so far, so dim, + You shade your eyes, and gaze and gaze, + Until there wavers into sight + A swinging, swaying strand of white, + And then the sapphire walls and towns + That breaks the light in quiv’ring showers + And float and fade in diamond haze;— + It is the mountains!—grand and calm + As God upon his awful throne; + They build you strength and breathe you balm, + For all their templed might of stone + Is our eternal sculptured psalm! + And now your western course is led + Where grassy pampas spread and spread + The pastures of the buffalo; + And like the sudden lash of foam + When tropic tempest smite the sea + And masts are stript to ward the blow— + A ragged whirl of dust described + Upon the prairie’s sloping side + Portends a storm as swift and free,— + And lo, the herds—they come! they come! + A sweeping thunder cloud of life + Loud as Niagara, and grand + As they who rode with plume and brand + On Waterloo’s red slope of strife; + Wild as the rush of tidal waves, + That roar among the crags and caves, + The trampling besom hurls along— + A black and bounding, fiery mass + That withers, as with flame, the grass— + O! terrible—ten thousand strong! + Meanwhile, the dusty teams are stopt, + The wagon tongues are deftly dropt, + And drivers by their oxen stand + And soothe them with soft speech and hand. + And yet, with horns tossed free, and eyes + Ablaze with purple depths of ire, + A thousand servile years expire + And flashes of old nature rise, + As if a sudden spirit woke + That would not brook the chain and yoke,— + And then, the stormy pageant past, + They bow their callous necks at last, + And with a heavy stride and slow, + The dreams of liberty forego. + + Alas! it is a land of shades. + And mystic visions, swift alarms; + The fretted spirit flames and fades + With clanging calls to prayers or arms. + * * * The day is dying, and the sun + Hangs like a jewel rich with fire + In the deep west of your desire. + And o’er the wide plateau is rolled + A surge of crinkled sunset gold, + Bordered with shadows gray and dun. + A horseman with loose, waving hair, + Black as the blackest of despair, + Wheels into sight and gives you heed, + And on its haunches reins his steed, + All quivering like a river reed, + And sits him like a statue there,— + Transfigured in the sunset sea— + A bronze, bare sphynx of mystery! + A moment thus, in wonder lost, + His eagle plumes all backward tossed, + Then wheels again, as swift as wind, + The wild hair floating free behind. + And sunset’s crinkled surges pour + Along an empty waste once more! + But you, since that fantastic shade + Across your desert path has played, + Distrust the very ground you tread, + And shiver with a nameless dread + Till stars drop crimson, and the sky + Is wan with heartless treachery. + + · · · · · + + For many days a form of white + Has flashed and faded in your sight + In fleeting glimpses, as of wings, + Our God’s bright palm in beckonings. + It is a secret nursed of each— + You dare not give the thought in speech, + So wierdly solemn is the sign— + As if, upon the western stairs, + The angels of a thousand prayers + Were come with sacred bread and wine. + Again, the still, enchanted hour + Of sunset burns in crimson flower, + And purple-hearted shadows sleep + Like clustered pansies, warm and deep, + Eastward of wreathen crag and wall. + The road that wound and wound all day + In many a dark and devious way + At last with one swift curve ascends + A rolling plain that breaks and bends + Westward, till rosy curtains fall + O’er mountains massed and magical. + Resplendent as a pearly tent + Upon the fir-fringed battlement— + Serene in sunset gold and rose, + A pyramid of splendor glows, + So vast and calm and bright your dream + Is dust and ashes in its gleam. + A maiden speaks—“He led us far— + It is the golden western star!” + And then a youth—“Our goal is won— + ’Tis the pavilion of the sun.” + A gray sage, then, in undertone— + “It must be Hood, so grand and lone— + The shining citadel and throne + Of Terminus, that Roman god + Who marked the line that legions trod, + And set the limits of the world + Where Cæsar’s battle flags were furled! + Oh, for the days of dark-eyed prophetess + Who sang in Syrian wilderness + The gilded chariots’ overthrow, + To lead us for the cymbaled song + To him, the beautiful and strong, + Who dashed the brimming cup of woe + And was our cloud and flame so long!” + + Forward! the crested mountains kneel + To patient tolls of fire and steel— + A way is hewn and you emerge + Upon the Cascades’ battled verge;— + And far beneath you and away + To ocean’s shining fringe of foam + And summer vail of floating spray, + Behold the land of your emprise, + Serene as tender twilight skies + When day is swooning into gloam! + It is the morning twilight now + That wraps the valley’s misted brow; + The bourgeoning and blooming dawn— + The reveille of Oregon. + + How brightly on your vision, first + The pictured vales and woodlands burst,— + The lakelets set like twinkling gems + Along the prairies’ pleated hems,— + The silver crooks and rippled sweeps + Of happy rivers here and there, + And many a waterfall that leaps + In rainbow garlands through the air,— + The skirted maples and the groves + Of oak the mild home-spirit loves— + Enameled plains and crenelled hills + And tangled skeins of brooks and rills,— + Imperial forests of the fir, + All redolent of musk and myrrh, + That fling and furl their banners old, + And still their gloomy secret hold + As Time his cloudy censer fills. + + · · · · · + + Where the foothills are wedded to the meadow + In the dimples that dally and pass + And the oak swings an indolent shadow + On the daisies that dial the grass.— + In the crescents of rivers; in hollows + Red-lipped in the strawberry time, + And the slope where the forests half follows, + A brooklet’s melodious rhyme,— + On the sun-rippled knolls, and the prairies, + Beloved of the wandering kine— + In the skirts of the woodland the fairies + Embroidered with rose and with vine— + There’s a tent, and a smoke that is curling + Above in the beautiful dome, + Like a guardian spirit unfurling + Soft wings o’er the temple of home. + And the ax of the woodman is ringing + All day in sylvestrian halls, + Where the chipmunk is playfully springing + And the blue-jay discordantly calls; + And the red chips are fitfully flying + On the asters that sprinkle the moss; + Where the beauty of summer is dying, + And the sun lances glimmer across; + There’s a bird that is spectrally knocking, + On a pine that is withered and bare, + For the fir-top is trembling and rocking, + In the blue of the clear upper air— + There’s a crackling of fiber—the crashing + Of a century crushed at a blow, + And the fir-trees are wringing and lashing + Their hands in a frenzy of woe! + + A pheasant whirs up from the thicket + In the hush that comes after the fall, + And the squirrel retires to his wicket, + And the bluebird renounces his call; + And the panther lies crouched by the bowlder + In the gloom of the canyon anear, + And the brown bear looks over his shoulder, + And the buck blows a signal of fear; + But there’s never a pause in your duty, + And the echoing ax is not still + As you waste with the green temples of beauty + For the puncheon and rafter and sill + That are wrought in a cabin so lowly + The trees will clasp hands over head, + But the heart calls it home, and the holy + Love-lights on its hearthstone are shed. + + It is staunch and rough-hewn, and the ceiling + Of the fragrant red cedar is made, + With an edging of silver revealing + A picture of sunlight and shade. + And the Word has its place, not a trifle + Obscured in a pageant of books, + And above the broad mantle your rifle + Is hung on accessible hooks. + Oh, the freshness of hope and of fancy + That illumines the home and the heart, + With the grace of a bright necromancy + That excels the adorning of art! + And you rise and look forth and the glory + Of Hood is before you again, + And the sun weaves a gold-threaded story + In the purple of mountain and glen. + + · · · · · + + Stand up, and look out from the mansion + That adorns the old scene of the past + On the fruitage of hope—the expansion + Of the fruits of your vigils forecast! + While the shadows of Hood have been wheeling + Away from the face of the sun, + What a glamour of change has been stealing + On the fields that you painfully won! + Like the castles that fade at cock-crowing + The enchantments arise and advance + Where the cities of commerce are glowing + Like pearls in the braids of romance; + For a state, in the shimmering armor + Of the Pallas Athena has come, + And her ægis is fringed with the warmer + Refulgence that circles our home. + + As for you, you are gray, and the thunder + Of the battle has smitten each brow + Where the freshness of youth was turned under + By Time’s immemorial plow; + But the pictures of memory linger, + Like the shadows that turn to the East, + And will point with a tremulous finger + To the things that are perished and ceased; + For the trail and the foot-log have vanished, + The canoe is a song and a tale, + And flickering church spire has banished + The uncanny red man from the vale; + The cayuse is no longer in fashion— + He is gone—with a flutter of heels, + And the old wars are dead, and their passions + In the crystal of culture congeals; + And the wavering flare of the pitch light + That illumines your banquets no more, + Will return like a wandering witch-light + And uncrimson the fancies of yore— + When you dance the “Old Arkansaw” gaily + In brogans that had followed the bear, + And quaffed the delight of Castaly + From the fiddle that wailed like despair; + And so lightly you wrought with the hammer, + And so truly with ax and with plow— + And you blazed your own trails through the grammar, + As the record must fairly allow; + But you builded a state in whose arches + Shall be carven the deed and the name, + And posterity lengthens its marches + In the golden starlight of your fame! + + + + + PILGRIMS OF THE PLAINS. + + By JOAQUIN MILLER. + + + A tale half told and hardly understood; + The talk of bearded men that chanced to meet, + That lean’d on long quaint rifles in the wood, + That look’d in fellow faces, spoke discreet + And low, as half in doubt and in defeat + Of hope; a tale it was of lands of gold + That lay toward the sun. Wild wing’d and fleet + It spread among the swift Missouri’s bold + Unbridled men, and reach’d to where Ohio roll’d. + + Then long chain’d lines of yoked and patient steers; + Then long white trains that pointed to the west; + Beyond the savage west; the hopes and fears + Of blunt, untutor’d men, who hardly guess’d + Their course; the brave and silent women, dress’d + In homely spun attire, the boys in bands, + The cheery babes that laughed at all and bless’d + The doubting hearts with laughing lifted hands— + What exodus for far untraversed lands! + + The Plains! The shouting drivers at the wheel; + The crash of leather whips; the crush and roll + Of wheels; the groan of yokes and grinding steel + And iron chain, and lo! at last the whole + Vast line, that reached as if to touch the goal, + Began to stretch and stream away and wind + Toward the west, as if with one control: + Then hope loom’d fair, and home lay far behind; + Before, the boundless plain, and fiercest of their kind. + + At first the way lay green and fresh as seas, + And far away as any reach of wave; + The sunny streams went by in belt of trees; + And here and there the tassell’d tawny brave + Swept by on horse, looked back, stretched forth and gave + A yell of hell, and then did wheel and rein + Awhile and point away, dark-brow’d and grave, + Into the far and dim and distant plain + With signs and prophecies, and then plunged on again. + + Some hills at last began to lift and break; + Some streams began to fail of wood and tide, + The somber plain began betime to take + A hue of weary brown, and wild and wide + It stretch’d its naked breast on every side. + A babe was heard at last to cry for bread + Amid the deserts; cattle low’d and died, + And dying men went by with broken tread, + And left a long black serpent line of wreck and dead. + + Strange hunger’d birds, black-wing’d and still as death, + And crown’d of red and hooked beaks, flew low + And close about till we could touch their breath— + Strange unnamed birds, that seem’d to come and go + In circles now, and now direct and slow, + Continual, yet never touch the earth; + Slim foxes shied and shuttled to and fro + At times across the dusty weary dearth + Of life, looked back, then sank like crickets in a hearth. + + Then dust arose, a long dim line like smoke + From out of riven earth. The wheels went groaning by, + The thousand feet in harness, and in yoke, + They tore the ways of ashen alkali, + And desert winds blew sudden, swift, and dry. + The dust! It sat upon and fill’d the train. + It seem’d to fret and fill the very sky. + Lo! dust upon the beasts, the tent, the plain, + And dust, alas! on breasts that rose not up again. + + They sat in desolation and in dust + By dried-up desert streams; the mother’s hands + Hid all her bended face; the cattle thrust + Their tongues and faintly called across the lands. + The babes that knew not what the way through sands + Could mean, did ask if it would end today. + The panting wolves slid by, red-eyed, in bands + To pools beyond. The men look’d far away, + And silent deemed that all a boundless desert lay. + + They rose by night, they struggl’d on and on + As thin and still as ghosts; then here and there + Beside the dusty way before the dawn, + Men silent laid them down in their despair, + And died. But woman! Woman, frail as fair! + May man have strength to give to you your due; + You falter’d not nor murmur’d anywhere, + You held your babes, held to your course, and you + Bore on through burning hell your double burdens through. + + Men stood at last, the decimated few, + Above a land of running streams, and they? + They pushed aside the boughs, and peering through + Beheld afar the cool refreshing bay; + Then some did curse, and some bend hands to pray; + But some looked back upon the desert wide + And desolate with death, then all the day + They mourned. But one, with nothing left beside + His dog to love, crept down among the ferns and died. + + + + + PIONEERS OF THE PACIFIC + + BY JOAQUIN MILLER. + + + · · · · · + + The wild man’s yell, the groaning wheel, + The train moved like drifting barge; + The dust rose up like a cloud, + Like smoke of distant battle loud! Loud + The great whips rang like shot, and steel + Flashed back as in some battle charge. + + They sought, yea, they did find their rest + Along that long and lonesome way, + Those brave men buffeting the West + With lifted faces. Full they were + Of great endeavor. + + · · · · · + + When + Adown the shining iron track + We sweep, and fields of corn flash back, + And herds of lowing steers move by, + I turn to other days, to men + Who made a pathway with their dust. + + + + + DOCUMENT. + + +The following is one of a set of documents giving contemporary evidence +on a most important epoch of Oregon history. It was secured by Principal +J. R. Wilson. + + (From the New Orleans Picayune, November 21, 1848.) + + + PRAIRIE AND MOUNTAIN LIFE—THE OREGON EMIGRANTS. + +During our detention among the upper settlements, before starting out, a +constant source of interest to us was the gathering of people bound to +Oregon. One Sunday morning, about the usual church hour in a larger +place, five or six wagons passed through the town of Westport, and one +old man with silver hair was with the party. Women and children were +walking, fathers and brothers were driving loose cattle or managing the +heavy teams, and keen-eyed youngsters, with their chins yet smooth and +rifles on their shoulders, kept in advance of the wagons with long +strides, looking as if they were already watching around the corners of +the streets for game. There was one striking feature about the party +which leads us to name it more particularly. Though traveling on the +Sabbath and through the little town that was all quiet and resting from +business in reverence of the day, there was that in the appearance of +the people that banished at once even the remotest idea of profanation. +They were all clean, and evidently appareled in their best Sunday gear. +Their countenances were sedate, and the women wore that mild composure +of visage—so pleasantly resigned, so eloquent of a calm spirit, so ready +to kindle up into smiles—that is seen more often among churchgoers, +perhaps, than in ballroom or boudoir. Some of the women carried books, +and the prettiest girl carried hers open before her as she stepped a +little coquettishly through the dust of the road. Whether she was +reading, or trying, or pretending to read, was hard to tell, but the +action had a naive effect, and as she passed she was, no doubt, much +astonished at a strange young gentleman who audibly addressed her with, +“Nymph, in thy orisons, be all my sins remembered.” + +Many other small bodies of these adventurous travelers crossed our +notice at Independence, Westport, and at encampments made in the +vicinity of these and other towns, but in their largest force we saw +them just after crossing the Kansas River about the first of June. The +Oregonians were assembled here to the number of six or eight hundred, +and when we passed their encampment they were engaged in the business of +electing officers to regulate and conduct their proceedings. It was a +curious and unaccountable spectacle to us as we approached. We saw a +large body of men wheeling and marching about the prairie, describing +evolutions neither recognizable as savage, civic or military. We soon +knew they were not Indians, and were not long in setting them down for +the emigrants, but what in the name of mystery they were about our best +guessing could not reduce to anything in the shape of a mathematical +probability. + +On arriving among them, however, we found they were only going on with +their elections in a manner perhaps old enough, but very new and +quizzical to us. The candidates stood up in a row behind the +constituents, and at a given signal they wheeled about and marched off, +while the general mass broke after them “lick-a-ty-split”, each man +forming in behind his favorite so that every candidate flourished a sort +of a tail of his own, and the man with the longest tail was elected! +These proceedings were continued until a captain and a council of ten +were elected; and, indeed, if the scene can be conceived, it must appear +as a curious mingling of the whimsical with the wild. Here was a +congregation of rough, bold, and adventurous men, gathered from distant +and opposite points of the Union, just forming an acquaintance with each +other, to last, in all probability, through good or ill fortune, through +the rest of their days. Few of them expected, or thought, of ever +returning to the states again. They had with them their wives and +children, and aged, depending relatives. They were going with stout and +determined hearts to traverse a wild and desolate region, and take +possession of a far corner of their country destined to prove a new and +strong arm of a mighty nation. These men were running about the prairie, +in long strings; the leaders,—in sport and for the purpose of puzzling +the judges, doubling and winding in the drollest fashion; so that, the +all-important business of forming a government seemed very much like the +merry schoolboy game of “snapping the whip.” It was really very funny to +see the candidates for the solemn council of ten, run several hundred +yards away, to show off the length of their tails, and then cut a half +circle, so as to turn and admire their longitudinal popularity _in +extenso_ themselves. “Running for office” is certainly performed in more +literal fashion on the prairie than we see the same sort of business +performed in town. To change the order of a town election, though for +once, it might prove an edifying exhibition to see a mayor and aldermen +start from the town pump and run around the court house square, the +voters falling in behind and the rival ticket running the other way, +while a band in the middle might tune up for both parties, playing “O, +What a Long Tail Our Cat’s Got;” which we surmise some popular composer +may have arranged for such an occasion. + +After passing them here, we never saw the Oregonians again. They elected +a young lawyer of some eminence as we were told, named Burnett, as their +captain, and engaged an old mountaineer, known as Captain Gant, as their +guide through the mountains to Fort Hall. Several enactments were made +and agreed to, one of which was called up to be rescinded, and something +of an excitement arose in regard to it. The law made was that no family +should drive along more than three head of loose stock for each member +composing it, and this bore hard on families that had brought with them +cattle in large numbers. The dispute resulted in a split of the large +body into two or three divisions; and so they moved on, making distinct +encampments all the way. Captain Gant was to receive $1.00 a head from +the company, numbering about a thousand souls, for his services as +guide. But a few more such expeditions following in the same trail will +soon imprint such a highway through the wilderness to Oregon that +emigrants may hereafter travel without such assistance. + +We left them here about the last of May and encountered no sign of them +again until returning in September, when we struck their trail on the +Sweetwater, near the south pass of the mountains. They had followed in +our own trail as far as this point and had here turned off, our course +lying in another direction. From here, all the way to Fort Laramie, we +found the now deeply worn road strewn with indications of their recent +presence. Scaffolds for drying meat, broken utensils thrown away, chips +showing where wagons had been repaired, and remnants of children’s +shoes, frocks, etc., met our notice at every deserted encampment. + +But one death seemed to have occurred among them, and this was far out +under the mountains. Here the loose riders of our moving camp gathered +one morning to examine a rude pyramid of stones by the roadside. The +stones had been planted firmly in the earth, and those on top were +substantially placed, so that the wolves, whose marks were evident about +the pile, had not been able to disinter the dead. On one stone, larger +than the rest, and with a flat side, was rudely engraved: + + J. HEMBREE. + +And we place it here as perhaps the only memento those who knew him in +the States may ever receive of him. How he died, we of course cannot +surmise, but there he sleeps among the rocks of the West as soundly as +if chiseled marble was built above his bones. + +On returning to Rock Independence, a point about nine hundred miles from +the settlements, we were astonished at finding that the Oregonians had +reached and passed it only four days behind us. We had confidently +supposed them four weeks in our rear, and their rapid progress augurs +well for the success of their enterprise. On the rock we found printed: + + “THE OREGON CO. + arrived + July 26, 1843.” + +At Fort Laramie we were told that they were still well provisioned when +passing there, and could even afford to trade away flour, coffee, etc., +for necessaries of other kinds. But it was droll to hear how the Sioux +stared at the great caravans. Some of them on seeing the great number of +wagons, and particularly white women and children, for the first time, +began to think of coming down here, having seen, as they supposed, “the +whole white village” move up the mountains. + + + + + INDEX. + + + + + TOPICAL INDEX. + + ADAMS— + Proposals on the Oregon Question, 220 + + ASTORIA— + Settlement of, 10 + Restitution of, to U. S., 214 + + + BAYLIES— + Speeches of, on Oregon, 21 + + BENTON— + Oregon policy of, 13, 16, 50, 52 + + + CALHOUN— + Opposition of, to Oregon bill, 235 + + CALIFORNIA— + Contract labor in mines of, 281 + + CARVER— + Use of word Oregon by, 112, 166 + + CHAMPOEG— + Origin of name, 88 + Early life in, 88, 89 + Early settlement near, 173 + Early manners of, 172, 176 + + CHOLERA— + Ravages of, among immigrants to Oregon, 363 + + CLAY— + On the Oregon Question, 221 + + COLUMBIA RIVER— + Discovery of, 113 + Proposed as boundary, 215 + + + DOUGLAS— + Interest in Oregon Question, 40 + + + ENGLAND— + Rivalry of, in Oregon Country, 6 + + EDUCATION— + Appropriation of public land for in Oregon, 148 + + + FLOYD— + Oregon policy of, 13–17, 218 + + FREMONT— + Work of, in Oregon, 330 + + + GOVERNMENT— + Lack of in early Oregon, 9, 10 + First exercise of, 10, 11 + + GOLD— + Effect of early discoveries of, 103 + + GRAY— + Explorations of, 113 + + + INDIANS— + Customs of, 77 + Behavior toward white women, 82 + Matthieu’s recollections of, 99 + Religious customs of, 179 + Legends of the, 183 + Request of, for missionaries, 225, 346 + First estimate of, in Oregon Country, 296 + Position of women among the Oregon, 296 + Funeral customs of, 300 + Poor food supply of, 302 + Estimate and census of Oregon Indians, 314 + Language, peculiarities of, 317 + + + JACKSON— + Effort of, to acquire San Francisco Bay, 228 + + + KELLEY, HALL J.— + Visit to Oregon in 1834, 195 + Work in Oregon, 224 + Work of, 349 + + + LEE— + Petition of, to Congress, 28, 29 + + LINN— + Oregon policy of, 26, 230, 235 + + LANDS— + Cession of state claims to western, 136 + + LANE— + Arrival in Oregon, 52 + + LEDYARD— + Plan of, for exploring Oregon, 115 + + LEWIS AND CLARK— + Plan for the expedition of, 120 + Grant of land to, 144 + + LOUISIANA— + Purchase of, by U. S., 147 + + + McLOUGHLIN— + Influence of, 11, 12 + Notes on, 95, 96 + Treatment of American settlers, 105 + Domestic life of, 158 + Trouble with American immigrants, 201 + Hospital work of, 308 + + MISSIONARIES— + Early settlements of, in Oregon, 194, 196, 225 + + MONEY IN EARLY OREGON, 102 + + + NOOTKA— + Convention of, 125 + + + OREGON— + Original extent of, 4, 111 + Primitive isolation of, 6 + Territorial admission of, 52 + Motives for statehood in, 53 + Opposition to statehood in, 54 + Constitutional Convention of, 55 + Admission of, as a state, 58 + Dangers of pioneer travel to, 61, 62 + Characters of pioneers in, 63, 64 + First use of the name, 112, 166 + Spanish claims to, 122 + Southern boundary of, fixed, 127 + Russian claims to, 128 + Northern boundary of, fixed, 127 + School lands of, 154 + Early American visitors to, 193 + Early immigration to, 198 + Dispute over northern boundary of, 215 + Discussion over occupation of, 218 + Character of early settlement in, 224 + Fifty-four deg. 40 min. boundary of, 243 + Settlement of northern boundary of, 251 + Estimate and census of Indians in, 314 + Condition of, in 1842, 327 + Fur trade in, 329, 335 + Motives for movement to, 352 + Summary of negotiations for, 349 + Difficulties of route to, 359 + Estimate of immigrations to, 370 + Character of immigrants to, 398 + + + PARKMAN— + Estimate of work of, on Oregon Trail, 342 + + POLK— + Inaugural address on Oregon, 46 + Message of, 1845 on Oregon, 47 + Message of, 1847, 49 + + POPULATION MOVEMENT— + Effect on Oregon, 8 + + PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT— + Notices for, 32, 33 + First steps toward, 33 + Objections to, 34, 35 + Plan of, 36 + Changes in, 37, 38 + Effectiveness of, 39 + Indian attitude toward, 40 + Lane’s verdict on, 52 + Notes on organization of, 91 + + + SAUVIE’S ISLAND— + Indian population of, 310 + + SLACUM— + Visit of, to Oregon Country, 228 + + SLAVERY— + Influence of, on admission of Oregon Territory, 48, 50, 51, 147 + In Constitutional Convention, 56 + In early Oregon, 101 + + SOVEREIGNTY— + Occupation the test of, 123 + + + TEXAS— + Influence of, on Oregon Question, 288 + + TYLER— + Message of, 1842 on Oregon, 41, 234 + Message of, 1843, 44 + Message of, 1844, 45 + + + WASHINGTON— + Territorial formation of, 53 + + WEBSTER— + Opinion of, on Oregon Question, 239 + + WHITE— + Appointment of, as sub-Indian agent, 31 + Settlement of, in Oregon, 241 + + WHITMAN— + Character and aims of, 41, 42 + Work of, 42, 241 + Character of, 61 + Matthieu’s estimate of, 85 + Views of, on Oregon’s needs, 351 + Influence of, 381 + + WILKES— + Work of, in Oregon, 333 + + WYETH— + Visits of, to Oregon, 194 + Settlement in Oregon, 223 + + + + + PUBLICATIONS + OF THE + OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY + + + SOURCES OF THE HISTORY OF OREGON + + VOLUME I + +NUMBER 1.—JOURNAL OF MEDOREM CRAWFORD—AN ACCOUNT OF HIS TRIP ACROSS THE +PLAINS IN 1842. PRICE, 25 CENTS. + +NUMBER 2.—THE INDIAN COUNCIL AT WALLA WALLA, MAY AND JUNE, 1855, BY COL. +LAWRENCE KIP—A JOURNAL. PRICE, 25 CENTS. + +NUMBERS 3 TO 6 INCLUSIVE.—THE CORRESPONDENCE AND JOURNALS OF CAPTAIN +NATHANIEL J. WYETH, 1831–6.—A RECORD OF TWO EXPEDITIONS, FOR THE +OCCUPATION OF THE OREGON COUNTRY, WITH MAPS, INTRODUCTION AND INDEX. +PRICE, $1.10. + +THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY FOR 1898–9, INCLUDING +PAPER BY SILAS B. SMITH, ON “BEGINNINGS IN OREGON,” 97 PAGES. PRICE, 25 +CENTS. + +THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY FOR 1899–1900. +INCLUDING TWO HISTORICAL PAPERS, 120 PAGES. PRICE, 25 CENTS. + + + QUARTERLY OF THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY. + + NO. 2, VOL. I, JUNE, 1900. + _Joseph R. Wilson_—THE OREGON QUESTION 111 + _Frances F. Victor_—OUR PUBLIC LAND SYSTEM AND ITS RELATION TO + EDUCATION IN THE UNITED STATES 132 + _Mrs. William Markland Molson_—GLIMPSES OF LIFE IN EARLY OREGON 158 + _H. W. Scott_—NOT MARJORAM.—THE SPANISH WORD “OREGANO” NOT THE + ORIGINAL OF OREGON 165 + _H. S. Lyman_—REMINISCENCES OF LOUIS LABONTE 169 + _Frances F. Victor_—DR. ELLIOTT COUES 189 + DOCUMENT.—A Narrative of Events In Early Oregon ascribed to Dr. + John McLoughlin 193 + REVIEWS OF BOOKS.—_Eva Emery Dye’s_ “McLoughlin and Old Oregon” 207 + _H. K. Hines’_ “Missionary History of the Pacific Northwest” 210 + NOTE.—A Correction 212 + ─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── + NO. 3, VOL. I, SEPTEMBER, 1900. + _Joseph R. Wilson_—THE OREGON QUESTION II. 213 + _H. S. Lyman_—REMINISCENCES OF HUGH COSGROVE 253 + _H. S. Lyman_—REMINISCENCES OF WM. M. CASE 269 + _John Minto_—THE NUMBER AND CONDITION OF THE NATIVE RACE IN OREGON + WHEN FIRST SEEN BY WHITE MEN 296 + _H. S. Lyman_—INDIAN NAMES 316 + DOCUMENTS—Oregon articles reprinted from a file of the N. Y. + _Tribune_, 1842. 327 + Letter by William Plumer, Senator from N. H. 336 + + + PRICE: THIRTY-FIVE CENTS PER NUMBER, ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR. + + + + + UNIVERSITY OF OREGON. + + +_THE GRADUATE SCHOOL confers the degrees of Master of Arts, (and in +prospect, of Doctor of Philosophy,) Civil and Sanitary Engineer (C. E.), +Electrical Engineer (E. E.), Chemical Engineer (Ch.E.), and Mining +Engineer (Min. E.)_ + +_THE COLLEGE OF LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND THE ARTS confers the degree of +Bachelor of Arts on graduates from the following groups: (1) General +Classical; (2) General Literary; (3) General Scientific; (4) +Civic-Historical. It offers Collegiate Courses not leading to a degree +as follows: (1) Preparatory to Law or Journalism; (2) Course for +Teachers._ + +_THE COLLEGE OF SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING._— + + _A.—The School of Applied Science confers the degree of Bachelor of + Science on graduates from the following groups; (1) General + Science; (2) Chemistry; (3) Physics; (4) Biology; (5) Geology and + Mineralogy. It offers a Course Preparatory to Medicine._ + + _B.—The School of Engineering: (1) Civil and Sanitary; (2) Electrical; + (3) Chemical._ + + _THE SCHOOL OF MINES AND MINING._ + _THE SCHOOL OF MEDICINE at Portland._ + _THE SCHOOL OF LAW at Portland._ + _THE SCHOOL OF MUSIC._ + _THE UNIVERSITY ACADEMY._ + + _Address_ + THE PRESIDENT, + EUGENE, OREGON. + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES + + + ● Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. + ● Enclosed bold or blackletter font in =equals=. + ● Images without captions use HTML alt text. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78187 *** diff --git a/78187-h/78187-h.htm b/78187-h/78187-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b15310b --- /dev/null +++ b/78187-h/78187-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3680 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html> +<html lang="en"> + <head> + <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1"> + <meta charset="UTF-8"> + <title>The Quarterly of the Oregon Historical Society (Vol. I, No. 4), December, 1900 | Project Gutenberg</title> + <link rel="icon" href="images/cover.jpg" type="image/x-cover"> + <style> + body { margin-left: 8%; 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G. Young</i>—<span class='sc'>The Oregon Trail</span></td> + <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_339'>339</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Jesse Applegate</i>—<span class='sc'>A Day With The Cow Column in 1843</span></td> + <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_371'>371</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Col. George L. Currey’s Tribute to the Ox Whip</span></td> + <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_384'>384</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Sam L. Simpson</i>—<span class='sc'>The Camp Fires of the Pioneers</span></td> + <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_385'>385</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Joaquin Miller</i>—<span class='sc'>Pilgrims of the Plains</span></td> + <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_395'>395</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Joaquin Miller</i>—<span class='sc'>Pioneers of the Pacific</span></td> + <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_397'>397</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Documents</span>—The Oregon Emigrants, 1843</td> + <td class='c005'><a href='#Page_398'>398</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c006'> + <div>PRICE: THIRTY-FIVE CENTS PER NUMBER, ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c003'><span class='sc'>The Oregon Historical Society</span></h2> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c006'> + <div><span class='sc'>Organized December 17, 1898</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>H. W. SCOTT</td> + <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>President</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>C. B. BELLINGER</td> + <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>Vice-President</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>F. G. YOUNG</td> + <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>Secretary</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>CHARLES E. LADD</td> + <td class='c005'><span class='sc'>Treasurer</span></td> + </tr> + <tr><td class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>George H. Himes</span>, Assistant Secretary.</td></tr> +</table> + +<h3 class='c008'>DIRECTORS</h3> + +<div class='lg-container-b c002'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>THE GOVERNOR OF OREGON, <i>ex officio</i>.</div> + <div class='line'>THE SUPERINTENDENT OF PUBLIC INSTRUCTION, <i>ex officio</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1901,</div> + <div class='line in8'>F. G. YOUNG, L. B. COX.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1902,</div> + <div class='line'>JAMES R. ROBERTSON, JOSEPH R. WILSON.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1903,</div> + <div class='line'>C. B. BELLINGER, MRS. MARIA L. MYRICK.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Term Expires at Annual Meeting in December, 1901,</div> + <div class='line'>H. W. SCOTT, MRS. HARRIET K. McARTHUR.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><cite>The Quarterly</cite> is sent free to all members of the Society. The annual dues +are two dollars. The fee for life membership is twenty-five dollars.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Contributions to <cite>The Quarterly</cite> and correspondence relative to historical +materials, or pertaining to the affairs of this Society, should be addressed to</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='large'>F. G. YOUNG,</span></div> + <div class='line in8'><i>Secretary</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Eugene, Oregon.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>Subscriptions for <cite>The Quarterly</cite>, or for the other publications of the +Society, should be sent to</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>GEORGE H. HIMES,</div> + <div class='line in8'><i>Assistant Secretary</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>City Hall, Portland, Oregon.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<a href='images/i_frontis_hr.jpg'><img src='images/i_frontis.jpg' alt='Faint hand-drawn map of Oregon showing early trail routes and transportation lines across the state, with rivers and small place labels.' class='ig001'></a> +</div> + +<div class='chapter ph1'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c010'> + <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>Volume I</span>]      DECEMBER, 1900      [<span class='sc'>Number 4</span></span></div> + <div class='c002'><span class='xlarge'>THE QUARTERLY</span></div> + <div class='c002'><span class='xsmall'>OF THE</span></div> + <div class='c002'><span class='sc'>Oregon Historical Society</span>.</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_339'>339</span> + <h2 class='c003'>THE OREGON TRAIL.</h2> +</div> + +<p class='c011'>The early Oregon pioneers not only gained the first +secure foothold for the American people on the Pacific +Coast, but their movement opened the way to American +occupation and in itself counted as an occupation of that +realm for American civilization. They moved across the +continent at an auspicious time, and so were able to +influence, if not to shape, the course of great events +touching the widening of the American dominion on the +Pacific. It was all done so quietly, so efficiently, at so +comparatively small cost and without any shock of harrowing +disaster, that the world has yet to connect the +momentous results with a cause seemingly so inadequate.</p> + +<p class='c009'>As the American people come to realize that their +distinctively national achievement so far, next to that of +maintaining a national integrity, has been that of preempting +and subduing an adequate dominion and home +for a civilization they will revere the services of those +<span class='pageno' id='Page_340'>340</span>who made the transcontinental migrations in the thirties, +forties and fifties. The glory that belongs to the participants +in those migrations is the peculiar birthright of +the patriotic Oregonian. The passage from the Atlantic +slope to the Pacific of these first American households +bearing the best embers of western civilization must ever +stand as a momentous event in the annals of time.</p> + +<p class='c009'>For twenty-eight years, now, surviving participants +in this world event have annually assembled to recount +the incidents of their coming to Oregon, to live over that +trying but hallowed time, to rekindle old flames of friendship +and form new ties on the basis of their common +experiences. At these meetings of the Oregon pioneers +there was always an “occasional address” in which the +reminiscences of the immigration of some particular year +were given. As the journal of the association puts it, +the object of the association “should be to collect reminiscences +relating to pioneers and the early history of +the territory; to promote social intercourse, and cultivate +the life-enduring friendships that in many instances had +been formed while making the long, perilous journey of +the wide, wild plains, which separated the western boundary +of civilization thirty years ago from the land which +they had resolved to reclaim.” The biographical notices +contained in the transactions of their association all mark +this coming to Oregon as a dividing event in the lives of +their subjects. That generation of Oregonians suffered +something like a transfiguration through this movement, +which also widened the nation’s outlook—in making +it face a greater sea. These transforming influences +wrought their effects during the summer season that +each successive immigration spent on the Oregon trail, +while journeying in canvas-topped oxen-drawn wagons +from the banks of the Missouri to those of the Willamette. +The greatest epochal expansion of the nation was insured +through these migrations at the same time that the participants +were translating their lives to a new sphere.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_340a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>1.—Near the site of Fort Kearney on the Platte. (Part of pontoon bridge is used as road fence.)</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_341'>341</span>For engaging and vivid detail of experiences in this +movement, recourse must be had to the transactions of +the Oregon Pioneer Association, and to journals kept on +the way across the plains. These will ever have an interest +for the heart of man as they show life under heroic +impulse and in trying conditions long sustained. The +whole movement Oregonward has an epic unity, and when +its significance has become fully manifest will challenge +the powers of the national poet.</p> + +<p class='c009'>But the movement has not yet, even in its outward +aspects, been viewed as a whole. To mark off its limits +in time, in routes taken, in numbers and population elements +involved; to note the main motives, the forms of +characteristic experiences; in a word to make, as it were, +a composite view with relation to national history as a +background,—would seem to be the first step for realizing +the due appreciation of the significance of the work of +the Oregon pioneers. A sketch of the outlines of the +movement in its more salient features, then, is what is +attempted here, with the hope that such setting forth of +the movement as a whole, with outlines more or less +closely defined, will lead to its being brought fully into +relation with the general course of events of American +history. Until the story of the Oregon movement is thus +set forth, the historians of our national life cannot weave +it into its proper conspicuous relations in their narratives. +It has no doubt been largely due to this lack if +the story of this pioneer achievement in available form +that a somewhat undue estimate of Doctor Whitman’s +services and the acceptance of mythical accretions to them +have come about. The Whitman story was early available +and was made to do service in accounting for a larger +outcome than facts warranted.</p> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_342'>342</span>The Oregon migrations effected at one sweep a two +thousand mile extension of the Aryan movement westward +in the occupation of the north temperate zone—“a +far-flung” outpost of occupation and settlement. To +appreciate the boldness, intrepidity and consummate +effectiveness of such pioneering we have but to note that +no previous extension had compassed one-fourth this distance. +Nor were the conditions in this instance easy. +One continuous stretch of Indian country infested with +most formidable predatory tribes had to be passed +through. Conditions approximating those of a desert +had to be faced during a large part of the migration. +There were swift rivers to ford or ferry, and three mountain +ranges to scale. Only one form of the usual difficulties +of pioneer road-making did not appear. There +were no extensive forests to penetrate except on the +ridges of the Blue and the Cascade Mountains.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The settlements of the blue grass region of Kentucky, +and the Nashville district, in Western Tennessee, were, +when first made, the most isolated from the main body +of the American people. Yet, these had less than a four-hundred +mile stretch between them and the settled region +of the Atlantic slope. No other outward movement of +Aryan people ever covered anything like the distance +made by the Oregon pioneers on the Oregon trail. Measured +by the sea voyage, the Oregon settlements were a +leap of seventeen thousand miles.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_342a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>2.—“LONE OR COURT HOUSE ROCK.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>Though the Oregon pioneers traced the first trail +across the continent, adapting for sections of it the lines +of travel of fur trading expeditions; yet, were it not for +the title of Francis Parkman’s narrative (which, however, +has only the slightest references to anything pertaining +to its title), I am not sure but that the very name +would have been lost to all except Oregonians. The +meagerness of Parkman’s presentation of the transcontinental +<span class='pageno' id='Page_343'>343</span>movement is easily accounted for. He did not +take his trip of roughing it to Fort Laramie and the +Black Hills, in 1846, to see the Oregon pioneers. His +plans to write the history of the new France in America +tended to narrow his interest strictly to aspects of Indian +life as they were with the Indian in his original state. +He was concerned solely during his life on the plains to +get that insight into Indian character and customs that he +might interpret the records of the relations of the French +with them, and give his narrative in his great life work +truth, life, and color. Had he been inclined to associate +himself with the westward moving trains, and to enter +into their life and thought, his “Oregon Trail” would +naturally have been a final characterization of the migrations +up to the stage they had assumed at that time. +There are, however, indications in some of his references +to the pioneers that their necessarily <i>deshabille</i> condition +while en route, and the astounding and almost reckless +character of their undertaking were by him set in contrast +with the steady comfortable ways of the New England +folk from which he hailed and the Oregonians correspondingly +disparaged. In this he would be bringing a +pioneer phase of civilization into comparison with a more +finished form. The wayfaring pioneers were still marking +out wider and more natural limits for the national +home, while the New Englanders were advancing the +arts of life on the original nucleus of national territory. +But who can say to which the nation in its destiny owes +the more?</p> + +<p class='c009'>Two years ago there appeared a book of five hundred +and twenty-nine pages written by Colonels Henry Inman +and William F. Cody, bearing the title, “The Great Salt +Lake Trail.” In its preface there is to be found the following +comment on its title: “Over this historical highway +the Mormons made their lonely hegira. * * * +<span class='pageno' id='Page_344'>344</span>Over this route, also, were made those world renowned +expeditions by Fremont, Stansbury, Lander, and others +of lesser fame, to the heart of the Rocky Mountains, +and beyond, to the blue shores of the Pacific Ocean. +Over the same trackless waste the pony express executed +those marvelous feats in annihilating distance, and +the once famous overland stage lumbered along through +the seemingly interminable desert of sage brush and +alkali dust—<i>avant-courieres</i> of the telegraph and the +railroad.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>The body of the book touches upon topics ranging in +time from Jonathan Carver’s explorations in 1766-’68 to +the building of the Union Pacific Railroad. Its map +lays “The Old Salt Lake Trail” exactly on the route of +the Oregon trail as far as Fort Bridger, in Southwestern +Wyoming. But the Oregon migrations are not hinted +at by a single word in the body of the book. The authors’ +account of them could not have been crowded out +by more weighty matters, as all the disjointed fragments +of Indian hunting and fighting and drunken carousal, +whether happening on the line of the trail or not, are +crowded in. Either the story of the Oregon movement +during the thirties, forties and fifties was absolutely +unknown to Colonels Inman and Cody, or, if known, +thought worthy of relegation to oblivion by them.</p> + +<p class='c009'>In interviews last summer with people living along +the line of the trail, only those whose experiences extended +back to the time of the Oregon migrations recognized +the trail as the Oregon trail. It was always the +“California trail” or the “Mormon trail.”</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_344a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>3.—The North Fork of Platte—its sandy bottom exposed.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>It is, of course, to be conceded that more people +traveled this road to California than to Oregon. But +the Oregon movement was first in time. By it the feasibility +of the route was demonstrated, and people susceptible +to the western fever were accustomed to think of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_345'>345</span>the trip across the plains in a way that brought them +when the cry of California gold was raised, or when as +Mormon converts they were longing for a refuge from +molestation. Then, too, the Oregon pioneers not only +led the way; they decided our destiny Pacificward. It +is time that history was conferring its award of justice +to them. The highway they opened to the greater sea, +and which their march made glorious, should take its +name from them and thus help to commemorate unto +coming generations the momentous import of their +achievement for all the future of mankind.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The transcontinental movement as a march of civilization +to the west shore of the continent was in its +incipiency a missionary enterprise. There is hardly any +doubt, however, but that the home-seeking pioneer +would have been on the way just as soon without the +initiative of the missionary heroes and heroines. It is, +nevertheless, the lasting glory of the Presbyterian and +Congregational denominations that under the auspices +of their missionary board the first American families +successfully made the passage that was to sweep such a +marvelous movement into its train. The Methodist +Episcopal missionary enterprise antedated all others +and played a conspicuous role in the political organization +of the Oregon community, but it was not first in +setting up the American home. So long as it lacked +that it could not bear an American civilization, which +was the crucial matter. It was Whitman who demonstrated +the possibility of taking households across the +plains, and this achievement, too, was a decisive initiative.</p> + +<p class='c009'>But how did the impulse to make this dangerous +and arduous journey to the then far-off wilderness of +Oregon originate with the missionary and the home-seeking +pioneers? The inception of the Oregon movement +<span class='pageno' id='Page_346'>346</span>in both its missionary and its pioneering aspects +is best understood when viewed as outbursts of missionary +zeal and energy and pioneer daring and restlessness +from vast stores of potential missionary and pioneer +spirit existing in this country in the thirties. Missionary +activity in the direction of Oregon was liberated +by something like a spark, or, to change the metaphor, +by a “long-distance” “Macedonian cry.” A delegation +of four Nez Perces Indians from the upper waters of the +Columbia arrived in St. Louis in 1832 in search of “the +white man’s Book of Heaven.” An account of this +singularly unique mission was published in the newspapers +of the time. The story was made all the more +effective and thrilling, with those of deep religious sensibilities, +through its including what purported to be a +verbatim report of a most pathetic farewell address +made in General Clark’s office by one of the two surviving +members of this mission.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The closing passage of the speech, as it has been +handed down, is as follows:</p> + +<p class='c009'>“We are going back the long, sad trail to our people. +When we tell them, after one more snow, in the big +council that we did not bring the Book, no word will be +spoken by our old men, nor by our young braves. One +by one they will rise up and go out in silence. Our people +will die in darkness, and they will go on the long +path to other hunting grounds. No white man will go +with them, and no Book of Heaven to make the way +plain. We have no more words.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>The missionary boards of several Protestant denominations +were already establishing foreign missions in +Africa, India, and among the western North American +Indians. Hall J. Kelley had been agitating the cause of +the Oregon Indians for half-a-generation. An appeal for +missionary help so pathetic, so unheard of, and withal +shedding such luster on those from whom it came, as +was that of the Nez Perces delegation to St. Louis, could +not fail to bring forth a missionary movement towards +Oregon.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_346a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>4.—“CHIMNEY ROCK.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_347'>347</span>The spirit that materialized in the Oregon pioneer +movement was not kindled by any special spark like that +which called forth the missionary enterprises. Nor was +it aroused by anything like the cry of gold that brought +on the mad rush to California in ’49 and the early fifties. +The Oregon migrations were the outcome of cool, calm, +reasoned determination. This characterized the movement +collectively as well as individually.</p> + +<p class='c009'>In a sense, the Oregon movement was in preparation +from the time when in 1636 Puritan congregations were +led by Hooker and others from the vicinity of Boston +westward through the forests to the banks of the Connecticut. +This initial western movement was communicated +along the Atlantic coast settlements by the Scotch-Irish +crossing the Blue Ridge Mountains in Pennsylvania, +and by the Virginians penetrating to the Shenandoah +Valley. Some would say that an instinct to move +west has been growing in strength among civilized peoples +since about 1000 B. C., when the Phœnicians moved +west on the Mediterranean to found Carthage, and the +Greeks to plant colonies in southern Italy and at Marseilles.</p> + +<p class='c009'>So largely had pioneering been the mode of life of +those who were living in the western zone of settlement +in the United States in 1840 that it was almost a cult +with them. The traditions of each family led through +the Cumberland Gap or west to Pittsburg and down the +Ohio, or along the line of the Great Lakes. Hon. +W. Lair Hill, in his “Annual Address” before the Pioneer +Association in 1883, fitly characterizes the people +among whom the Oregon movement took its rise. “The +<span class='pageno' id='Page_348'>348</span>greater number of them were pioneers by nature and +occupation, as their fathers had been before them. In +childhood the story of their ancestors’ migrations from +the east to the west, and then to the newer west was +their handbook of history. Homer or Virgil, of whom +few of them had ever heard, could have rehearsed no +epic half so thrilling to their ears as the narratives of +daring adventure and hairbreadth escapes, which, half +true and half false, ever form the thread of frontier history. +They knew nothing of Hector and Achilles, but +they knew of Daniel Boone, who, Lord Byron said, ‘was +happiest among mortals anywhere,’ whom civilization +drove out of Pennsylvania by destroying the red deer +and black bear, and who, after some years of solid comfort +in his log cabin amid the wilds of Kentucky, was +again pursued and overtaken by the same relentless +enemy and compelled to retire into the Missouri wilderness, +beyond the Mississippi; and who, even in that +distant retreat, was soon forced to say to his friend and +companion, according to current anecdote, ‘I was compelled +to leave Kentucky because people came and settled +so close around me I had no room to breathe. I thought +when I came out here I should be allowed to live in +peace; but this is all over now. A man has taken up a +farm right over there, within twenty-five miles of my +door.’ Of Boone, and such as Boone, most of them who +founded the commonwealth of Oregon, knew much more +than of the great names of literature, statesmanship, or +arms, and their minds dwelt fondly on the exploits of the +frontiersman, whether in the contests with the savages or +the chase. More familiar with the log cabin than with +the palace, with the rifle than with the spindle and loom, +with saddle than with the railway, they felt cramped +when the progress of empire in its westward way put +restraint upon those habits of life to which they were +accustomed.”</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_348a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>5.—“CASTLE AND STEAMBOAT ROCKS.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_349'>349</span>Knowledge of a “new country” was sure to create in +them an almost irrepressible longing to move on. Such +natures as these furnished the best culture conditions in +which to develop an Oregon movement with the reports +explorers and travelers brought from the far Pacific Coast +region. Such Oregon material had early been disseminated +among these susceptible people. The journal of +the Lewis and Clark expedition was published in 1814 +and distributed far and wide as a government document. +Pioneers speak of reading it as boys and of becoming +permanently interested in the Oregon Country. The +journal of Patrick Gass, a sergeant in the company of +Lewis and Clark, fell into the hands of others and stirred +their imaginations. From 1817 on until 1832 Hall J. +Kelley, a Boston schoolmaster, was compiling and distributing +information designed to awaken a desire to join +in a movement to establish a civilized community in Oregon. +His society is said to have had thirty-seven agents +scattered through the union. An Oregon question became +a subject of negotiation between Great Britain and +the United States in 1818. These negotiations were renewed +in 1824, 1827 and 1842. The occupation of Oregon +was proposed in congress in 1821. The subject was kept +before congress almost continuously until 1827, and again +from 1837 on. The proposed legislation elicited exhaustive +reports and warm discussions, which were published +in the newspapers of the land. The bill of Dr. Lewis F. +Linn, senator from Missouri, introduced in 1842, with its +provision for a grant of six hundred and forty acres of +land to every actual male settler, was naturally a most +potent cause of resolutions to go to Oregon. The fact +that during all these years Great Britain disputed our +<span class='pageno' id='Page_350'>350</span>right to claim the whole of the Oregon Country only +added to the ardor of some who thought of going thither.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Soon sources of fresh information brought direct +from Oregon became available. St. Louis was the +winter rendezvous of representatives of fur companies +and independent trappers who were operating in the +Rocky Mountains. These came in contact with officers +and employees of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and +from them secured much information about Oregon. +Nathaniel J. Wyeth conducted two expeditions overland +to the Lower Columbia between 1832 and 1836. Mr. +William N. Slacum, who had been commissioned by +President Jackson to visit the North Pacific Coast to conduct +explorations and investigations among the inhabitants +of that region, reported in 1837. Irving’s Astoria +was brought out in 1836, and his Adventures of Captain +Bonneville in 1837. In 1838 Jason Lee, the Methodist missionary, +returned to the States, and talked Oregon wherever +he went. His lecture on Oregon in Peoria, Illinois, +that year netted an expedition of thirteen or fourteen +persons for Oregon the next. The leader of this party, +Thomas J. Farnham, returned to the East, and in 1841 +published a book of travels, which had a wide circulation. +Dr. Elijah White, for several years associated with the +Methodist mission enterprise, but who had returned to +his home in New York, received an appointment in 1842 +as sub-Indian agent for Oregon. He immediately began +a canvass for immigrants to Oregon. His party, made up +mainly of those found on the Missouri border ready to +start, added one hundred and twenty-seven to the American +population in Oregon. During this same year +Commodore Wilkes’ naval exploring expedition to +Oregon returned and reported. Early in this year, too, +Fremont’s overland party was organized, and was on +the trail a short distance in the rear of Doctor White’s +pioneer party. On February 1, 1843, the Linn bill +passed the senate. All the missionaries were sending +back letters giving glowing accounts of the attractions +of Oregon. The famous winter ride of Doctor Whitman +from Oregon to Missouri was made in the winter of +1842–3. He did go to Washington and he urged the +importance of American interests in Oregon upon President +Tyler and some of the members of his cabinet. +Returning west in the spring of 1843, he was at the +Shawnee mission school, near Westport, Missouri, while +the great migration of 1843 was forming and filing by. +The sight reassured him that Oregon was to be occupied +by American citizens. His thought seemed no longer +mainly concerned with the pioneers getting to Oregon. +There would be no trouble about that. His plans +reached forward to include the conditions of a stable and +progressive civilization there. His letters at this time, +after mentioning the number of emigrants, turn to +matters that would determine their condition as proposed +settlers. He says: “A great many cattle are +going, but no sheep, from a mistake of what I said in +passing.” And again: “Sheep and cattle, but especially +sheep, are indispensable for Oregon. * * * I +mean to impress the Secretary of War that sheep are +more to Oregon’s interests than soldiers.” Doctor +Whitman’s influence had probably not been decisive +with many of the pioneers, possibly not with any, in +getting them started, but all the leaders of that great +immigration testify that his services as pilot and counsellor +were most valuable in getting them through.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_350a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>6.—“SCOTT’S BLUFF.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_351'>351</span>The facts so far marshalled on the origin of the pioneer +movement to Oregon disclose the existence of a +people in the Mississippi Valley competent for the undertaking, +and on general principles not disinclined towards +it, whose thought, moreover, had been arrested by some +<span class='pageno' id='Page_352'>352</span>unique advantages claimed for the Oregon country. But +the Oregon movement, like most migrations, has most +light thrown on its origin and motive by an inquiry into +the conditions that made the old home undesirable, and +in some cases even unbearable.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Not a few came from Missouri, Kentucky and other +border slave states because they were not in sympathy +with the institution of slavery. Their aversion to slave +owning placed them at a great disadvantage in those +states. Their families were not recognized as socially +the equals of the more influential portion of society. +They were accustomed to labor, and slavery brought a +stigma upon labor. In the cultivation of tobacco and +hemp, the main articles of export, the owner of slave +labor had a decided advantage. The employer of free +labor found it exceedingly difficult to make ends meet. +Snubbed in a social way, worsted in industrial competition, +in individual cases they were even mobbed when +they tried to express their anti-slavery sentiments at the +polls. Some of the more nervous of the slave-owning +population, too, were impelled to seek relief in the same +movement from the constant dread of a negro insurrection.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The “fever and ague” was a dread visitant to very +many engaged in turning over the virgin soil of the Mississippi +Valley. In Oregon they would be free from this +curse, so the “fever and ague,” with not a few, brought +on the “Oregon fever.” The frequent recurrence of the +awful scourge of the cholera in the towns of the middle +west in the late forties and early fifties made many, in +the hope of safety, more than willing to brave the dangers +and hardships of the journey to Oregon. The +warning signals of approaching old age no doubt were +the deciding influence with some who set out as modern +Ponce de Leons in search of fountains of renewed youth +in Oregon.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_352a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>7.—“OLD BEDLAM”—SITE OF FORT LARAMIE.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_353'>353</span>Monetary disturbances had made business stagnant +all over the country from 1837 to 1841. Many had gone +to the wall, and had been compelled to see their homes +turned over to others. The hard times were felt keenest +in the then farthest west. They were so far inland that +commercial intercourse with the rest of the world was +almost totally cut off. What traffic they had was carried +on by slow, laborious and expensive processes. Railroad +building had not progressed so as to give a hope, hardly +even an intimation, of its wonderful solution of the +problem of maintaining a high civilization far inland. +By going to Oregon they would, as they thought of it, +again be on the open shores of the greater sea, within +easy reach of the highway of the civilizations of the world. +Not often, perhaps, were their motives formulated. These +were allowed to rest in their minds in the most naive +form of impulse. Col. Geo. B. Currey, in his “Occasional +Address” before the Pioneer Association, in 1887, endorses +the following as the best reason he ever got. It +was, as he says, “from a genuine westerner,” who said +he came “because the thing wasn’t fenced in, and nobody +dared to keep him out.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>The western border of Missouri was the natural jumping +off place for the plunge into the wilderness. The +settlements there had extended out like a plank beyond +the line of the border elsewhere. The Ohio and the Missouri, +with a short stretch of the Mississippi, had furnished +the line of least resistance to the westward movement.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Each recurring spring tide from 1842 on witnessed the +gathering of hosts at points on the Missouri, from Independence, +near the confluence of the Kansas with the +Missouri, north to what is now Council Bluffs. They +<span class='pageno' id='Page_354'>354</span>were enamored with one idea, that of making homes in +far away Oregon. This part of the border was also the +starting line for the California and the Mormon migrations. +The California movement was only sporadic until +1849. This was seven years after the Oregon movement +had become regular. The Mormons first struck across +the continent in 1847.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Independence and Westport, just south of the Missouri’s +great bend to the east, were the gateway of the +earliest regular travel and traffic across the plains. +These towns are now the suburbs of Kansas City. The +Oregon migrations of 1842 and 1843 were formed exclusively +in this vicinity. The old Santa Fe trail led by these +settlements. From these points, too, the fur trading +companies conducted expeditions annually to the upper +waters of the Green River beyond the Rocky Mountains. +The route was up the south side of the Kansas River +some fifty miles, then turning to the right, the river was +forded or ferried and a general northwest course adhered +to, more direct for Oregon.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Beginning in 1844 Saint Joseph, then a thriving border +town, situated on the river some fifty miles to the north +of the first jumping off places, became an important fitting +out place. Those who took steamboat passage to +the border would naturally wish to make as much of the +distance to Oregon in that way as possible. The vicinity +of Saint Joseph seemed to furnish excellent facilities +for securing the necessary ox teams and other needs for +the trip. The Saint Joseph route, too, was a more direct +one for those coming across the country from Iowa, +Illinois and Indiana. After 1850 the Council Bluffs’ +route had the largest transcontinental travel. Weston +and old Fort Kearney, the present Nebraska City, both +on the Missouri, the former between Independence and +Saint Joseph and the latter between Saint Joseph and +Council Bluffs were minor points of departure. Smaller +companies would cross the river wherever there was a +ferry.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_354a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>8.—The Trail leading down to bottom lands of the Sweetwater.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_355'>355</span>Steamboating on the treacherous Missouri during +those spring seasons while the tide of emigration was +strongly westward set is given a lurid hue in the journals +of the emigrants. The river route was the natural +one for all coming from Ohio and the states to the east, +also for many coming from Indiana.</p> + +<p class='c009'>One entry made during this part of the trip in 1852 +reads as follows: “We have a bar on our boat, too, and +that is visited about as often as any other place I know of. +A son of temperance is a strange animal on this river, I +can assure you. I think there are three or four sons on +the boat, and the rest, about five hundred people, like a +dram as often as I would like to drink a little water. * * * We get a little scared sometimes, for we hear +of so many boats blowing up. There was another boat +blown up at Lexington last Saturday and killed one hundred +and fifty persons, the most of which were emigrants +for California and Oregon. These things make us feel +pretty squally, I can assure you, but it is not the way to +be scared beforehand. So we boost our spirits up and +push on. * * * Got to Lexington at 12 o’clock. +There we found the wrecks of the boat that blew up five +days ago. There were about two hundred people aboard, +and the nearest we could learn about forty persons escaped +unhurt, about forty were wounded and the balance +were killed.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>The man who kept this journal fitted out with a company +at Saint Joseph. The company planned to drive +up the east side of the Missouri and cross at old Fort +Kearney. But, finding the roads too bad on that route, +they made for a ferry ten miles north of Saint Joseph. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_356'>356</span>I quote from his account of their experiences in getting +across the river: “Went up to the ferry. Mr. H—‘s and +Mr. S—’s wagons went over safe. Then Mr. S—’s family +wagon and five yoke of cattle and all of Mr. S—’s family +except two boys went on the ferry boat, and when they +were about one-half way across the boat began to sink. +They tried to drive the cattle off, but could not in time +to save the boat from sinking. My family are still on +the east side and I—S— with his teams. We witnessed +the scene and could do nothing. Mrs. S— and the baby +and next youngest were all under water, but the men of +the boat got into the river and took them out, and the rest +of the family got upon the wagon cover and saved themselves +from drowning. A Mr. R— jumped overboard +and thought he could swim to shore, but was drowned. +He was one of Mr. S—’s hired hands. By the assistance +of one of the other boats the rest were saved, but we +thought from where we were that it was impossible that +they could all be saved. Well, I paid a man fifteen cents +for taking my wife and little children across in a skiff. +They have no skiff at the ferry, but they have three good +ferryboats that they work by hand. But the people here +are as near heathens as they can be, and they go for shaving +the emigrants, and then they spend it for whiskey +and get drunk and roll in it. But we are all over on the +west shore of the Missouri and in Indian territory.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>For those congregated hosts, encamped each early +spring at different points along the banks of the Missouri, +and intent as soon as grass had grown to be sufficient for +their stock to sally forth on a two thousand mile passage +to the Valley of the Willamette, the natural features of +the continent pointed out just one general route to travel. +This road, so clearly marked out by the configuration of +the country for all using their mode of conveyance, lay +up the Valley of the Platte; its tributary, the Sweetwater; +through South Pass; across to the Valley of the +Snake, the tributary of the Columbia; following down +the course of the Snake to its great bend to the north; +across to the Columbia; down the Columbia to their +destination.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_356a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>9.—“INDEPENDENCE ROCK.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_357'>357</span>Those sections of the trail which constitute connecting +links, as it were, to the grander portions, can be +accounted for almost as clearly as the main sections can. +Forage and water must be regularly available to those +traveling with horses, mules or oxen. These must be +found in great abundance by those who are driving considerable +droves over long stretches of arid wastes. In +summer months, on the unsettled parched plains, these +resources were insured only along river or creek bottoms. +So in striking out from Independence or Saint Joseph for +the Valley of the Platte to the north, to economize in the +distance traveled to the Oregon goal, and insure supplies +of the prime requisites—good water and grass—their +course would be such as to bring them to nightly camps +on the banks of one of the numerous streams flowing +into the Kansas. Passing one they would make for a +higher point on the next to the west so as to keep in a +more direct line for Oregon. Fuel, so necessary for preparing +their meals, was in that region found only on the +banks of these streams. Along the Platte, the North +Fork, and the Sweetwater “buffalo chips” sufficed fairly +well the need of fuel, except the night was wet. In +moving from the South Pass to the basin of the Columbia, +mountainous country made a direct route impracticable. +In the detour to the southwest the valleys of +the tributaries of the Upper Green were utilized, and +particularly the most convenient northwest course of the +Bear River. The details of the course in this detour +were determined by the stepping stones, as it were, of +water, grass and wood. These were found in that desert +<span class='pageno' id='Page_358'>358</span>region, too, only in the river and creek bottoms. On +issuing from the South Pass, then, the valleys of the +Little Sandy, Big Sandy, and the Green itself, had to be +followed, with such crossings from one to the other as +were feasible, and were in the interests of economy in +distance, until they struck a tributary coming in from +the west, up which a passage could be made and the +divide crossed, bringing them into the Valley of the +Bear, a part of the Great Salt Lake Basin. The Valley +of the Bear has a general northwest direction of some +seventy-five miles from where they usually entered it. +It was in every way a natural road to them to the point +where it makes its bend to the south. At this bend was +the first fork made in early times by the California trail’s +turning off to the south. The divide at this point between +the Basin of the Great Salt Lake and the Valley of +the Snake was comparatively easy. The Snake River +Valley, with its barren wastes, deep precipitous canyons, +sharp lava rocks, made a trying portion of the route. +There were several optional routes. None so acceptable +as the Platte Valley had furnished. To follow the +Snake in its long bend to the north would have led them +far out of their way, so they took the available valleys +of the Burnt and Powder rivers that led them farthest +on their way towards the westerly flowing Umatilla, a +tributary of the Columbia. They thus not only kept on +in a comparatively direct line towards the Valley of the +Willamette, but were also afforded water, grass and +wood so necessary for further endurance of the now well +fagged transcontinental wayfarers. But the Blue Mountains +lay across this short cut and gave them their first +real experience in climbing steep mountain sides. From +the crest of these mountains the way to their goal lay +down hill, except they chose a road across the Cascade +Mountains. But whether they took the Barlow Road or +dared the dangers of the gorge of the Columbia, the +darkest, sternest trials were yet to be faced by the now +weak and famished pioneers. They were, however, +veterans now, and if succored with fresh supplies from +settlers in the Willamette Valley and the strength of +their cattle sufficed, no difficulties, however stupendous, +could daunt them.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_358a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>10.—WEST END OF INDEPENDENCE ROCK.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_359'>359</span>On the whole, those home-seeking pioneers, as they +lay encamped on the banks of the Missouri, could congratulate +themselves that no specially stupendous natural +obstacles had been interposed in that immense +stretch that lay between them and their destination. +There was only the interminableness of it, and the facts +that it was to be entered upon while the fierce pelting +spring storms of wind, rain and hail were liable to be of +daily and nightly occurrence; that muddy sloughs would +cause breakdowns, and freshet-swollen streams would be +fraught with danger; that there would then be four +months in which the fierce burning, blistering sun would +have them at its mercy, and a dense, stifling dust would +enhance their misery during the midday hours to the +point of wretchedness, and no bathroom in the evening +in which to find relief; that in the later and almost final +days of the journey they would probably be exposed in +approximate nakedness to the searching blasts of the +oncoming winter, fortunate if they were not caught and +held fast in mountain snows. Withal, they knew it would +be a lumbering trudge with ox teams that would take +them all summer and far into the autumn.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Each recurring spring season family or neighborhood +groups who had determined to try their fortunes in Oregon +would move out to one of the points of departure on +the Missouri border. They would soon find themselves +a part of a larger aggregation. Generally there was no +more prearrangement for this meeting than there is +<span class='pageno' id='Page_360'>360</span>among birds that flock for a migration. All who constituted +the company from any one point had simply selected +the same jumping off place.</p> + +<p class='c009'>When the grass had grown abundant enough to furnish +subsistence for their stock and draft animals, those +who were ready with their outfit would begin to file out +on the prairie trails converging upon the main Oregon +road. After having traveled a day or two a halt was +called by those in advance to await the coming up of +others who proposed to undertake the same trip with +themselves. The American instinct for organization +would then assert itself, and there was occasion for its +activity. They were in an Indian country. It was not +wise to tempt the predatory propensities of the savages +by too much straggling in their traveling or by too much +unwariness in guarding their cattle and horses. In +order to avoid molestation by prowling bands of Pawnees, +Otoes, Cheyennes and Sioux, through whose ranges +the trail east of the Rockies passed, it was necessary to +travel in companies of some size and with such discipline +as to be able to establish an effective guard at night and +to make some demonstration of force when encountering +considerable bands of Indian warriors.</p> + +<p class='c009'>There was much economy, too, in bunching their +several droves of loose stock into a single herd, in having +a single lookout for selecting camping places, in the help +that each would receive in case of accidents that all were +liable to. Very essential, too, were organization and +discipline when they came to a bank of a large stream +across which their trail led. With the earlier migrations +before printed guide books were available, organization +was necessary to secure the services of a pilot.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_360a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>11.—“DEVIL’S GATE,”<br> <br> Showing dam for leading out an irrigating ditch.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>The first large migrations—those of 1843 and 1844, +and even of 1845—erred in attempting to go as one +compact body. The difficulty of securing adequate +<span class='pageno' id='Page_361'>361</span>grazing was much enhanced as the company increased +in size. From this fact and the further fact that in case +of a hitch or accident of any kind in a large company, +many would be delayed who could be of no service in +getting things fixed up for a fresh start, it resulted that +twenty or thirty wagons were the maximum limit to the +size of companies that did not chafe under their organization. +In later years six or eight wagons were a +normal number for a company. Even in the earlier +migrations, when the Upper Sweetwater was reached +and the danger from the Indians was measurably past, +the large companies would divide up into sections. The +earlier migrations, too, took precautions that no person +attached himself to the train unless he was furnished +with such resources as to rations and transportation that +he would not likely become a common burden.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The records of the migrations give ample corroboration +to the truth of the adage, “Uneasy lies the head, +etc.,” and yet these privately penned diaries disclose +comparatively little bickering or unwholesome feeling, +notwithstanding the severe strain human nature was +under in the conditions of this four, five, and sometimes +six months’ passage. Whenever conditions developed +making advisable a division of the body into two or +more, the division was made, and all was smooth again. +The documentary material printed in this number of the +Quarterly throws light on this phase of their experience +and depicts the unique proceedings of the pioneers of +1843 in effecting an organization.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The type of the transcontinental pioneer changed +materially after the gold-seeker was in the majority. +From 1849 on the diarist’s account is not devoid of the +tragical. “These plains try and tell all the dark spots +in men,” says Rev. Jesse Moreland in his journal of the +trip from Tennessee to Oregon in 1852. He describes +<span class='pageno' id='Page_362'>362</span>evidence of three executions for murder by hanging. +He says: “As they had nothing to make a gallows out +of, they took two wagon tongues, put them point to +point and set a chair in the middle, and the man stood +on the chair till the rope was tied, and then the chair +was taken from under him. This is the third we have +heard of being hanged.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>Before 1849, while the Oregon movement still constituted +the great part of the transcontinental travel, and +a fierce commercial spirit was not yet dominant, the +humanity of the pioneers seemed to stand remarkably +well the strain incident to the experiences on the plains. +Their journals do not reveal half the irritation and +demoralization that the accounts of Parkman and of +Coke do in companies that had vastly better outfits and +were passing over the same routes.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The average company of immigrants in pulling through +the miry sloughs of the Missouri bottom lands in early +spring, with only partly broken ox teams, would break a +wagon tongue, an axle tree, or a wheel, and suffer more +or less exasperating delay. The fierce spring storms of +rain and hail would play havoc with their tent coverings, +and drench and pelt all who must stand outside to prevent +the teams and stock from stampeding. These freshets +would make impassable, for the time being, the numerous +streams of the Kansas and Nebraska prairies. With +the feeling that they must not over-exert their teams mere +trifles even were allowed to delay them during the first +four or five hundred miles of the journey.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Except they had some one like a Doctor Whitman +with them to persistently urge them to “travel, travel,” +as the only condition of getting through, there would be +too much loitering in the early stages of the journey. +Those who entered upon the trip in later years had more +nearly an adequate sense of the vastness of the distance +they must cover, and wasted no time in the initial stages.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_362a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>12.—Gap just south of Devil’s Gate—used for the Trail.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_363'>363</span>Especially the migration of 1849, and to some degree +those of 1850 and 1852, were in deepest dismay over the +presence among them of the dreadful scourge of cholera. +The trail was lined in places along the south side of the +Platte through the width of rods with mounds of freshly +made graves after these migrations had passed.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The Hon. F. A. Chenoweth, in his “Occasional Address” +before the Oregon Pioneer Association, in 1882, +gives the following account of the ravages of the cholera +among the trains of 1849:</p> + +<p class='c009'>“But the incidents of hardship which I have noticed +were the merest trifles compared to the terrible calamity +that marked with sadness and trailed in deep desolation +over that ill-fated emigration. Very soon after the assembled +throng took up its march over the plains the +terrible wave of cholera struck them in a way to carry +utmost terror and dismay into all parts of the moving +mass.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The number of fatally stricken, after the smoke and +dust were cleared away, was not numerically so frightful +as appeared to those who were in the midst of it. But +the name “cholera” in a multitude unorganized and +unnumbered is like a leak in the bottom of a ship whose +decks are thronged with passengers. The disturbed +waters of the ocean, the angry elements of nature, when +aroused to fury, are but faint illustrations of the terror-stricken +mass of humanity, when in their midst are falling +with great rapidity their comrades—the strong, the +young and the old—the strength and vigor of youth +melting away before an unseen foe. All this filled our +ranks with the utmost terror and gloom. This terrible +malady seemed to spend its most deadly force on the +flat prairie east of and about Fort Laramie.</p> + +<p class='c009'>One of the appalling effects of this disease was to +<span class='pageno' id='Page_364'>364</span>cause the most devoted friends to desert, in case of +attack, the fallen one. Many a stout and powerful man +fought the last battle alone on the prairie. When the +rough hand of the cholera was laid upon families they +rarely had either the assistance or the sympathy of their +neighbors or traveling companions.</p> + +<p class='c009'>There was one feature mixed with all this terror that +afforded some degree of relief, and that was that there +was no case of lingering suffering. When attacked, a +single day ordinarily ended the strife in death or recovery. +A vast amount of wagons, with beds and blankets, +were left by the roadside, which no man, not even an +Indian, would approach or touch through fear of the +unknown, unseen destroyer.</p> + +<p class='c009'>While there were sad instances of comrades deserting +comrades in this hour of extreme trial, I can not pass +this point of my story without stating that there were +many instances of heroic devotion to the sick, when such +attention was regarded as almost equivalent to the offering +up of the well and healthy for the mere hope of +saving the sick and dying.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>Not a few who had purposed to go to California that +year turned off on the Oregon road to escape the contagion +which the dense crowd seemed to afford this +disease. Excepting in these cholera years and in 1847 +there were only infrequent cases of mountain fever and +forms of dysentery that were developed in the alkali +regions of the mountains.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_364a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>13.—“DEVIL’S GATE,” AS SEEN FROM ABOVE.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>A train of pioneers with sensible outfit emerging into +the valley of the Platte in a season free from the cholera +affliction could almost make it for a time a grand pleasure +excursion. The heat was not yet oppressive, the roads +good, the air exhilarating, the boundless expanse of green +undulating prairie under crystal skies filled them with a +sense of freedom. The exciting buffalo hunt was soon +<span class='pageno' id='Page_365'>365</span>on and afforded them a welcome addition to a diet exceedingly +unvaried at best. After the usual trudge during +the day amid a panorama not yet monotonous the +wagons would be driven to form approximately a circle—the +end of the tongue or the front wheel of one lapping +the hind wheel of the wagon in front, according as a more +or less spacious corral was desired. The oxen would be +unyoked and taken to water and then to the selected +grazing spot. Fires would be kindled alongside each +wagon outside of the corral for preparing the evening +meal. After it was partaken of there would be an hour or +two before darkness settled down upon them. Then the +cattle would be brought within the corral, if there was +the least apprehension of danger, and all except the +guards for the first watch and possibly the matrons with +multitudinous family cares would quickly surrender themselves +to sleep. But congenial groups of young people +would generally have a social hour or two. A blanket +or extra wagon covering was thrown on the ground beside +the wagon, and, when rain threatened, spread under the +wagon. (Most were probably without tents other than +the canvas tops of their wagons.) This with something +for a covering sufficed for the beds of the young men and +boys. In the morning at a given signal all were astir—and, +if the cattle had not strayed during the night or +been stampeded by Indians, breakfast over, everything +was soon in readiness for falling in, each in his appointed +place, and taking up the march that should bring them +a day nearer to their Oregon home. But this idyllic succession +of days very soon developed a very seamy side.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The sun’s rays became more and more scorching in +their fierceness, the plains assumed a dull, leaden grayish +aspect. The sagebrush and cactus took the place of +the waving grass. The burning sand and stifling dust +became deeper. These the west wind would raise into +<span class='pageno' id='Page_366'>366</span>a cloud continuous from morning until night. This +cloud of sand and dust particles beating against them at +a terrific velocity they had to face all day. Soon eyes +and lips were sore. To relieve the uncomfortable feeling +that the parching air gave the lips they would unwisely +be moistened and the soreness thus extended and +deepened. Soon everything was obdurately begrimed. +Rags then were in evidence. Shoes worn so as to no +longer protect the feet. In the dry, scorching air the +wagons would develop loose joints and lose their tires.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The monotony was relieved by lying by a day now +and then during which the women would wash and mend +the clothes and the men repair wagons and hunt buffalo, +the meat of which would be jerked to furnish a supply +after they had passed beyond the limits of the buffalo +country. The buffalo did not commonly range west of +the Lower Sweetwater.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The experiences which the buffalo gave them were +not limited to the fine sport of hunting him and the +delicious feasts his steaks afforded. His presence seemed +to kindle into life the old ancestral wildness of the ox +and the horse. Without the least warning some sedate +member of a team would raise his head and give the old +racial snort of freedom. This would kindle the same +spark in every animal of the train, and away they +would stampede with wagons, inmates and all, and not +to be stopped until utterly exhausted. In these stampedes +people would be run over, bones would be broken, +oxen dehorned, their legs broken, and things demolished +generally. The simple-minded pioneer with any tendency +to personify could not help but believe that the +devil had gotten into his hitherto always tractable +animals. I quote a pioneer’s account of a stampede, +though he does not ascribe it to the presence or influence +of the buffalo, as is almost always done: “After passing +Devil’s Gate, a beautiful stretch of road lay before us. +All at once the teams broke into a run—something +started them, no one seemed to know what. It was a +regular stampede as to our team. Father and mother +were walking; I was walking also, and some of the +children were in the wagon. Away the team went, the +hardest and the wildest running I ever saw. When +they stopped and we caught up with them, we found the +children were not hurt, but the two wheelers were down +and one of them dead. It took our team a long time to +get over the scare.”</p> + +<div class='figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/i_366a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>14.—“DEVIL’S GATE,” FROM SOME DISTANCE ABOVE.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_367'>367</span>There was still another condition in which the spirit +of the buffalo made the pioneer show deference to it. +This happened when a great horde of buffalo was on a +stampede bearing down upon an emigrant train that +happened to be passing across its trail. The moment +was almost enough to bring dismay to the pioneer. +Either the teams of the train were urged into something +of a stampede to get out of line of the horde’s advance, +or a corral was formed and volleys fired into the impending +mass to divide it so as to leave the corral a safe +island between a destructive flood rolling by on either +hand.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Distressing accidents must almost of necessity befall +them from their carrying their loaded guns commingled +with household goods on their wagons. It is not +strange that at least half of the journals should have +records of fatalities thus caused. Under the law of +mathematical probabilities, with the frequent occasion +there was to remove gun or blanket thus intermixed, +while the members of the family were standing around +the wagon, accidents must occur. The small boy of the +family during this four or five months’ trip had very +many occasions to clamber out of and into the wagon +while it was in motion. He, too, would come to grief +<span class='pageno' id='Page_368'>368</span>with a broken leg. Any ordinary fracture, however, +even though there were no surgeon at hand, would be +attended to, so that no deformity resulted. If the case +was one seeming to require an amputation “a butcher +knife and an old dull hand saw” were improvised as +surgical instruments. But I have not found that a +patient survived such an operation and got well. The +other great epochal events of family life, marriages and +births, were not infrequent on the trail, and seemed to +cause little distraction.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The experiences of the pioneers in crossing the rivers +in the line of the trail were very diverse. It is reported +of one of the migrations that they were not compelled +to ferry until they reached the Des Chutes in Oregon. +But the migration of 1844 had a serious time even with +the Black Vermillion and Big Blue, tributaries of the +Kansas. Where logs were available they were hollowed +out and catamaran rafts made so as to fit the wheels of a +wagon. Sometimes the best wagon boxes would be +selected and caulked and used as flatboats. Where buffalo +skins were plentiful they would be stretched around +the wagon box to make it water-tight. In later stages +of the journey, after their teams were more reliable, it +was a common practice to raise the wagon beds several +inches above the bolsters, if the depth of the stream +required it, couple several teams into a train with the +most reliable in front on a lead-rope, and drivers along +the down-stream side of the other teams. They would +then ford as trains. After the rush in 1849 ferries were +established at the more important crossings, whose owners +reaped rich harvests.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_368a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>15.—The deeply worn Trail along the Sweetwater.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>Their route had no rich diversity of scenic grandeur. +There are most impressive natural features along the +line of it, but with their slow mode of travel one phase +became exceedingly monotonous before another was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_369'>369</span>reached. There were the vastness and solitude of the +prairies and plains, the transparency of the atmosphere +that gave magnificent sweep of view. Along the North +Fork of the Platte stood great sentinel rocks with interesting +sculptured proportions. Among these are the +Lone or Court House Rock, Chimney Rock, Castle Rock, +Steamboat Rock, and Scott’s Bluff. Farther along on +their journey they come to Independence Rock and +Devil’s Gate on the Sweetwater, one a huge basaltic +mound upon which with tar or with iron chisels they +would register their names; the other a most unique +breach in a granitic range with sides two hundred feet +high, through which the Sweetwater flows. A week or +two later they would have the exhilarating sense of standing +on the backbone of the continent in South Pass, with +the towering Wind River Mountains to their right and +the Oregon buttes to their left. A few miles on they +would drink from the Pacific springs and know they +were in what was then called Oregon. Scenery most +unique was still before them on their way. Some of it, +like the panorama from the divide between the Green +and the Bear rivers and the Soda Springs, they would +enjoy. But their march from the South Pass on was a +retreat. Oxen would fall helpless in their yokes, wagons +would become rickety beyond repair. The trail was +strewn with wreckage, and the stench from the dead +cattle was appalling. The watering places along the +Snake were contaminated by the stock that had perished. +As soon as they reached the Blue Mountains their stock +was safe from starvation, but the exertion required of +their way-worn and weak oxen on the steep grades now +before them was the last straw often that these creatures +now could not bear. They could not let them recruit; +the season was far advanced towards winter; they must +press on.</p> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_370'>370</span>Data for determining the numbers that came across +the plains to Oregon during the successive years are as +yet very unsatisfactory. The estimates given below for +1842 and 1843 are well founded, but the others, especially +from 1847 on, are from no very tangible basis.</p> + +<p class='c009'>At the close of 1841 the Americans in Oregon numbered +possibly four hundred.</p> + +<table class='table1'> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1842 estimated from</td> + <td class='c012'>105 to</td> + <td class='c005'>137</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1843 estimated from</td> + <td class='c012'>875 to</td> + <td class='c005'>1,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1844 estimated about</td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + <td class='c005'>700</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1845 estimated about</td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + <td class='c005'>3,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1846 estimated about</td> + <td class='c012'> </td> + <td class='c005'>1,350</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class='c009'>The above figures are taken quite closely from those +given by Elwood Evans in his address before the Pioneer +Association in 1877. I make the immigration of 1844, +however, seven hundred, instead of four hundred and +seventy-five, as he gives it.</p> + +<table class='table1'> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1847 between</td> + <td class='c005'>4,000 and 5,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1848 about</td> + <td class='c005'>700</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1849 about</td> + <td class='c005'>400</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1850 about</td> + <td class='c005'>2,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1851 about</td> + <td class='c005'>1,500</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>The immigration of 1852 about</td> + <td class='c005'>2,500</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class='c009'>No doubt this one summer on the plains was an ordeal +under which some sensitive natures were strained +and weakened for life. It may be, too, that living for five +or six months, as families, on the simplest, barest necessities +of life, fixed standards of living lower than they otherwise +would have been. The effect, however, on strong, +resourceful natures of these months on the plains could +not have been other than salutary. The pioneers, when +they started, were most distinctively American in their +characteristics. As such they needed to be socialized. +No better school could have been devised than the organization +and regimen of the trip across the plains for socializing +their natures.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>F. G. YOUNG.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_370a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>16.—The “Three Crossings” of the Sweetwater.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_371'>371</span> + <h2 class='c003'>A DAY WITH THE COW COLUMN IN 1843.</h2> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c006'> + <div>By JESSE APPLEGATE.</div> + <div class='c002'>(Read before the Oregon Pioneer Association in 1876; reprinted from transactions of that society.)</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c011'>The migration of a large body of men, women and +children across the continent to Oregon was, in the year +1843, strictly an experiment; not only in respect to the +members, but to the outfit of the migrating party. Before +that date, two or three missionaries had performed the +journey on horseback, driving a few cows with them, +three or four wagons drawn by oxen had reached Fort +Hall, on Snake River, but it was the honest opinion of +the most of those who had traveled the route down +Snake River, that no large number of cattle could be +subsisted on its scanty pasturage, or wagons taken over +a country so rugged and mountainous.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The emigrants were also assured that the Sioux would +be much opposed to the passage of so large a body through +their country, and would probably resist it on account of +the emigrants’ destroying and frightening away the buffaloes, +which were then diminishing in numbers.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The migrating body numbered over one thousand +souls, with about one hundred and twenty wagons, +drawn by six-ox teams, averaging about six yokes to the +team, and several thousand loose horses and cattle.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The emigrants first organized and attempted to travel +in one body, but it was soon found that no progress +could be made with a body so cumbrous, and as yet so +<span class='pageno' id='Page_372'>372</span>averse to all discipline. And at the crossing of the “Big +Blue” it divided into two columns, which traveled in +supporting distance of each other as far as Independence +Rock on the Sweetwater.</p> + +<p class='c009'>From this point, all danger from Indians being over, +the emigrants separated into small parties better suited +to the narrow mountain paths and small pastures in +their front.</p> + +<p class='c009'>Before the division on the Blue River there was some +just cause for discontent in respect to loose cattle. Some +of the emigrants had only their teams, while others had +large herds in addition, which must share the pasture +and be guarded and driven by the whole body. This +discontent had its effect in the division on the Blue. +Those not encumbered with or having but few loose +cattle attached themselves to the light column; those +having more than four or five cows had of necessity to +join the heavy or cow column. Hence the cow column, +being much larger than the other and much encumbered +with its large herds, had to use greater exertion and observe +a more rigid discipline to keep pace with the more +agile consort. It is with the cow column that I propose +to journey with the reader for a single day.</p> + +<p class='c009'>It is four o’clock A. M.; the sentinels on duty have +discharged their rifles—the signal that the hours of sleep +are over—and every wagon and tent is pouring forth its +night tenants, and slow-kindling smokes begin largely +to rise and float away in the morning air. Sixty men +start from the corral, spreading as they make through +the vast herd of cattle and horses that make a semicircle +around the encampment, the most distant perhaps two +miles away.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_372a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>17.—“Oregon Buttes,”—taken from South Pass.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>The herders pass to the extreme verge and carefully +examine for trails beyond, to see that none of the animals +have strayed or been stolen during the night. This +<span class='pageno' id='Page_373'>373</span>morning no trails led beyond the outside animals in +sight, and by 5 o’clock the herders begin to contract the +great, moving circle, and the well-trained animals move +slowly towards camp, clipping here and there a thistle or +a tempting bunch of grass on the way. In about an +hour five thousand animals are close up to the encampment, +and the teamsters are busy selecting their teams +and driving them inside the corral to be yoked. The corral +is a circle one hundred yards deep, formed with +wagons connected strongly with each other; the wagon +in the rear being connected with the wagon in front by +its tongue and ox chains. It is a strong barrier that the +most vicious ox cannot break, and in case of an attack of +the Sioux would be no contemptible intrenchment.</p> + +<p class='c009'>From 6 to 7 o’clock is a busy time; breakfast is to be +eaten, the tents struck, the wagons loaded and the teams +yoked and brought up in readiness to be attached to their +respective wagons. All know when, at 7 o’clock, the +signal to march sounds, that those not ready to take +their proper places in the line of march must fall into +the dusty rear for the day.</p> + +<p class='c009'>There are sixty wagons. They have been divided +into fifteen divisions or platoons of four wagons each, +and each platoon is entitled to lead in its turn. The +leading platoon today will be the rear one tomorrow, +and will bring up the rear unless some teamster, through +indolence or negligence, has lost his place in the line, and +is condemned to that uncomfortable post. It is within +ten minutes of seven; the corral but now a strong barricade +is everywhere broken, the teams being attached to +the wagons. The women and children have taken their +places in them. The pilot (a borderer who has passed +his life on the verge of civilization and has been chosen +to the post of leader from his knowledge of the savage +and his experience in travel through roadless wastes), +<span class='pageno' id='Page_374'>374</span>stands ready, in the midst of his pioneers and aids, to +mount and lead the way. Ten or fifteen young men, not +today on duty, form another cluster. They are ready to +start on a buffalo hunt, are well mounted and well armed, +as they need be, for the unfriendly Sioux have driven the +buffalo out of the Platte, and the hunters must ride fifteen +or twenty miles to reach them. The cow drivers are +hastening, as they get ready, to the rear of their charge, +to collect and prepare them for the day’s march.</p> + +<p class='c009'>It is on the stroke of seven; the rush to and fro, the +cracking of whips, the loud command to oxen, and what +seemed to be the inextricable confusion of the last ten +minutes has ceased. Fortunately every one has been +found and every teamster is at his post. The clear notes +of a trumpet sound in the front; the pilot and his guards +mount their horses; the leading divisions of the wagons +move out of the encampment, and take up the line of +march; the rest fall into their places with the precision +of clock work, until the spot so lately full of life sinks +back into that solitude that seems to reign over the broad +plain and rushing river as the caravan draws its lazy +length towards the distant El Dorado. It is with the +hunters we shall briskly canter towards the bold but +smooth and grassy bluffs that bound the broad valley, +for we are not yet in sight of the grander but less beautiful +scenery (of Chimney Rock, Court House and other +bluffs, so nearly resembling giant castles and palaces), +made by the passage of the Platte through the highlands +near Laramie. We have been traveling briskly for more +than an hour. We have reached the top of the bluff, and +now have turned to view the wonderful panorama spread +before us. To those who have not been on the Platte, +my powers of description are wholly inadequate to convey +an idea of the vast extent and grandeur of the picture, +and the rare beauty and distinctness of the detail. No +haze or fog obscures objects in the pure and transparent +atmosphere of this lofty region. To those accustomed +only to the murky air of the seaboard, no correct judgment +of distance can be formed by sight, and objects +which they think they can reach in a two hours’ walk +may be a day’s travel away; and though the evening +air is a better conductor of sound, on the high plain during +the day the report of the loudest rifle sounds little +louder than the bursting of a cap; and while the report +can be heard but a few hundred yards, the smoke of the +discharge may be seen for miles. So extended is the +view from the bluff on which the hunters stand, that +the broad river glowing under the morning sun like a +sheet of silver, and the broader emerald valley that +borders it, stretch away in the distance until they narrow +at almost two points in the horizon, and when first +seen, the vast pile of the Wind River Mountains though +hundreds of miles away, looks clear and distinct as a +white cottage on the plain.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_374a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>18.—“STEAMBOAT SPRING” ON THE BANKS OF THE BEAR RIVER.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_375'>375</span>We are full six miles away from the line of march; +though everything is dwarfed by distance, it is seen distinctly. +The caravan has been about two hours in motion +and is now as widely extended as a prudent regard +for safety will permit. First, near the bank of the shining +river is a company of horsemen; they seem to have +found an obstruction, for the main body has halted while +three or four ride rapidly along the bank of the creek or +slough. They are hunting a favorable crossing for the +wagons; while we look they have succeeded; it has +apparently required no work to make it passable, for all +but one of the party have passed on, and he has raised +a flag, no doubt a signal to the wagons to steer their +course to where he stands. The leading teamster sees +him, though he is yet two miles off, and steers his course +directly towards him, all the wagons following in his +<span class='pageno' id='Page_376'>376</span>track. They (the wagons) form a line three-quarters of +a mile in length; some of the teamsters ride upon the +front of their wagons, some march beside their teams; +scattered along the line companies of women are taking +exercise on foot; they gather bouquets of rare and +beautiful flowers that line the way; near them stalks a +stately greyhound, or an Irish wolf dog, apparently +proud of keeping watch and ward over his master’s wife +and children. Next comes a band of horses; two or +three men or boys follow them, the docile and sagacious +animals scarce needing this attention, for they have +learned to follow in the rear of the wagons, and know +that at noon they will be allowed to graze and rest. +Their knowledge of time seems as accurate as of the +place they are to occupy in the line, and even a full-blown +thistle will scarce tempt them to straggle or halt +until the dinner hour has arrived. Not so with the +large herd of horned beasts that bring up the rear; +lazy, selfish and unsocial, it has been a task to get them +in motion, the strong always ready to domineer over the +weak, halt in the front and forbid the weak to pass +them. They seem to move only in the fear of the +driver’s whip; though in the morning, full to repletion, +they have not been driven an hour before their hunger +and thirst seem to indicate a fast of days’ duration. +Through all the long day their greed is never satisfied, +nor their thirst quenched, nor is there a moment of +relaxation of the tedious and vexatious labors of their +drivers, although to all others the march furnishes some +season of relaxation or enjoyment. For the cow drivers +there is none.</p> + +<p class='c009'>But from the standpoint of the hunters, the vexations +are not apparent; the crack of whips and loud objurgation +are lost in the distance. Nothing of the moving +panorama, smooth and orderly as it appears, has more +attractions for the eye than that vast square column in +which all colors are mingled, moving here slowly and +there briskly, as impelled by horsemen riding furiously +in front and rear.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_376a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>19.—“AMERICAN FALLS.”<br> <br> Railroad bridge of the “Oregon Short Line.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_377'>377</span>But the picture in its grandeur, its wonderful mingling +of colors and distinctness of detail, is forgotten in +contemplation of the singular people who give it life and +animation. No other race of men with the means at +their command would undertake so great a journey, none +save these could successfully perform it, with no previous +preparation, relying only on the fertility of their own invention +to devise the means to overcome each danger and +difficulty as it arose. They have undertaken to perform +with slow-moving oxen a journey of two thousand miles. +The way lies over trackless wastes, wide and deep rivers, +ragged and lofty mountains, and is beset with hostile +savages. Yet, whether it were a deep river with no tree +upon its banks, a rugged defile where even a loose horse +could not pass, a hill too steep for him to climb, or a +threatened attack of an enemy, they are always found +ready and equal to the occasion, and always conquerors. +May we not call them men of destiny? They are people +changed in no essential particulars from their ancestors, +who have followed closely on the footsteps of the receding +savage, from the Atlantic seaboard to the great Valley +of the Mississippi.</p> + +<p class='c009'>But while we have been gazing at the picture in the +valley, the hunters have been examining the high plain +in the other direction. Some dark moving objects have +been discovered in the distance, and all are closely watching +them to discover what they are, for in the atmosphere +of the plains a flock of crows marching miles away, or a +band of buffaloes or Indians at ten times the distance +look alike, and many ludicrous mistakes occur. But +these are buffaloes, for two have struck their heads together +<span class='pageno' id='Page_378'>378</span>and are, alternately, pushing each other back. +The hunters mount and away in pursuit, and I, a poor +cow-driver, must hurry back to my daily toil, and take +a scolding from my fellow herders for so long playing +truant.</p> + +<p class='c009'>The pilot, by measuring the ground and timing the +speed of the wagons and the walk of his horses, has determined +the rate of each, so as to enable him to select +the nooning place, as nearly as the requisite grass and +water can be had at the end of five hours’ travel of the +wagons. Today, the ground being favorable, little time +has been lost in preparing the road, so that he and his +pioneers are at the nooning place an hour in advance of +the wagons, which time is spent in preparing convenient +watering places for the animals, and digging little wells +near the bank of the Platte, as the teams are not unyoked, +but simply turned loose from the wagons, a corral is not +formed at noon, but the wagons are drawn up in columns, +four abreast, the leading wagon of each platoon on the +left, the platoons being formed with that in view. This +brings friends together at noon as well as at night.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_378a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>20.—Near summit of Blue Mountains—Meacham Station of O. R. & N. R. R. on the Trail, and site of “Lee Encampment.”</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>Today an extra session of the council is being held, +to settle a dispute that does not admit of delay, between +a proprietor and a young man who has undertaken to do +a man’s service on the journey for bed and board. Many +such engagements exist, and much interest is taken in +the manner in which this high court, from which there +is no appeal, will define the rights of each party in such +engagements. The council was a high court in the most +exalted sense. It was a senate composed of the ablest +and most respected fathers of the emigration. It exercised +both legislative and judicial powers, and its laws +and decisions proved it equal and worthy of the high +trust reposed in it. Its sessions were usually held on +days when the caravan was not moving. It first took the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_379'>379</span>state of the little commonwealth into consideration; revised +or repealed rules defective or obsolete, and enacted +such others as the exigencies seemed to require. The +common weal being cared for, it next resolved itself into +a court to hear and settle private disputes and grievances. +The offender and the aggrieved appeared before +it; witnesses were examined, and the parties were heard +by themselves and sometimes by counsel. The judges +being thus made fully acquainted with the case, and being +in no way influenced or cramped by technicalities, +decided all cases according to their merits. There was +but little use for lawyers before this court, for no plea +was entertained which was calculated to hinder or defeat +the ends of justice. Many of these judges have since +won honors in higher spheres. They have aided to establish +on the broad basis of right and universal liberty two +pillars of our great Republic in the Occident. Some of +the young men who appeared before them as advocates +have themselves sat upon the highest judicial tribunals, +commanded armies, been governors of states and taken +high position in the senate of the nation.</p> + +<p class='c009'>It is now one o’clock; the bugle has sounded and the +caravan has resumed its westward journey. It is in the +same order, but the evening is far less animated than +the morning march; a drowsiness has fallen apparently +on man and beast; teamsters drop asleep on their +perches and even when walking by their teams, and the +words of command are now addressed to the slowly +creeping oxen in the soft tenor of women or the piping +treble of children, while the snores of the teamsters +make a droning accompaniment. But a little incident +breaks the monotony of the march. An emigrant’s wife, +whose state of health has caused Doctor Whitman to +travel near the wagon for the day, is now taken with +violent illness. The Doctor has had the wagon driven +<span class='pageno' id='Page_380'>380</span>out of the line, a tent pitched and a fire kindled. Many +conjectures are hazarded in regard to this mysterious +proceeding, and as to why this lone wagon is to be left +behind. And we too must leave it, hasten to the front +and note the proceedings, for the sun is now getting low +in the west and at length the painstaking pilot is standing +ready to conduct the train in the circle which he has +previously measured and marked out, which is to form +the invariable fortification for the night. The leading +wagons follow him so nearly around the circle that but +a wagon length separates them. Each wagon follows +in its track, the rear closing on the front, until its tongue +and ox chains will perfectly reach from one to the other, +and so accurate the measure and perfect the practice, +that the hindmost wagon of the train always precisely +closes the gateway, as each wagon is brought into position. +It is dropped from its team (the teams being inside +the circle), the team unyoked and the yokes and +chains are used to connect the wagon strongly with that +in its front. Within ten minutes from the time the leading +wagon halted, the barricade is formed, the teams +unyoked and driven out to pasture. Every one is busy +preparing fires of buffalo chips to cook the evening +meal, pitching tents and otherwise preparing for the +night. There are anxious watchers for the absent wagon, +for there are many matrons who may be afflicted +like its inmate before the journey is over; and they fear +the strange and startling practice of this Oregon doctor +will be dangerous. But as the sun goes down the absent +wagon rolls into camp, the bright, speaking face +and cheery look of the doctor, who rides in advance, declare +without words that all is well, and both mother +and child are comfortable. I would fain now and here +pay a passing tribute to that noble and devoted man, +Doctor Whitman. I will obtrude no other name upon +the reader, nor would I his were he of our party or even +living, but his stay with us was transient, though the +good he did was permanent, and he has long since died +at his post.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_380a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>21.—Falls of the Willamette—the objective point of the pioneers.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_381'>381</span>From the time he joined us on the Platte until he +left us at Fort Hall, his great experience and indomitable +energy were of priceless value to the migrating +column. His constant advice, which we knew was based +upon a knowledge of the road before us, was, “Travel, +<i>travel</i>, <span class='fss'>TRAVEL</span>; nothing else will take you to the end of +your journey; nothing is wise that does not help you +along; nothing is good for you that causes a moment’s +delay.” His great authority as a physician and complete +success in the case above referred to, saved us +many prolonged and perhaps ruinous delays from similar +causes, and it is no disparagement to others to say +that to no other individual are the emigrants of 1843 so +much indebted for the successful conclusion of their +journey as to Dr. Marcus Whitman.</p> + +<p class='c009'>All able to bear arms in the party have been formed +into three companies, and each of these into four watches; +every third night it is the duty of one of these companies +to keep watch and ward over the camp, and it is so arranged +that each watch takes its turn of guard duty +through the different watches of the night. Those forming +the first watch tonight will be second on duty, then +third and fourth, which brings them through all the +watches of the night. They begin at 8 o’clock P. M., +and end at 4 o’clock A. M.</p> + +<p class='c009'>It is not yet 8 o’clock when the first watch is to be +set; the evening meal is just over, and the corral now +free from the intrusion of cattle or horses, groups of +children are scattered over it. The larger are taking a +game of romps; “the wee toddling things” are being +taught that great achievement that distinguishes man +<span class='pageno' id='Page_382'>382</span>from the lower animals. Before a tent near the river a +violin makes lively music, and some youths and maidens +have improvised a dance upon the green; in another +quarter a flute gives its mellow and melancholy notes to +the still night air, which, as they float away over the +quiet river, seem a lament for the past rather than a +hope for the future. It has been a prosperous day; +more than twenty miles have been accomplished of the +great journey. The encampment is a good one; one of +the causes that threatened much future delay has just +been removed by the skill and energy of that “good +angel” of the emigrants, Doctor Whitman, and it has +lifted a load from the hearts of the elders. Many of +these are assembled around the good doctor at the tent +of the pilot (which is his home for the time being), and +are giving grave attention to his wise and energetic +counsel. The care-worn pilot sits aloof, quietly smoking +his pipe, for he knows the brave doctor is “strengthening +his hands.”</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_382a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>22.—The Union Pacific Building, Omaha,—site of one of the “jumping off” points for Oregon.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>But time passes; the watch is set for the night; the +council of old men has been broken up, and each has returned +to his own quarter; the flute has whispered its +last lament to the deepening night; the violin is silent, +and the dancers have dispersed; enamored youth have +whispered a tender “good night” in the ear of blushing +maidens, or stolen a kiss from the lips of some future +bride—for Cupid here, as elsewhere, has been busy bringing +together congenial hearts, and among these simple +people he alone is consulted in forming the marriage tie. +Even the doctor and the pilot have finished their confidential +interview and have separated for the night. All +is hushed and repose from the fatigues of the day, save +the vigilant guard and the wakeful leader, who still has +cares upon his mind that forbid sleep. He hears the 10 +o’clock relief taking post and the “all well” report of the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_383'>383</span>returned guard; the night deepens, yet he seeks not the +needed repose. At length a sentinel hurries to him with +the welcome report that a party is approaching—as yet +too far away for its character to be determined, and he +instantly hurries out in the direction in which it was +seen. This he does both from inclination and duty, for +in times past the camp had been unnecessarily alarmed +by timid or inexperienced sentinels, causing much confusion +and fright amongst women and children, and it +had been a rule that all extraordinary incidents of the +night should be reported directly to the pilot, who alone +had the authority to call out the military strength of the +column, or of so much of it as was in his judgment necessary +to prevent a stampede or repel an enemy. Tonight +he is at no loss to determine that the approaching party +are our missing hunters, and that they have met with +success, and he only waits until by some further signal +he can know that no ill has happened to them. This is +not long wanting. He does not even await their arrival, +but the last care of the day being removed, and the last +duty performed, he too seeks the rest that will enable +him to go through the same routine tomorrow. But here +I leave him, for my task is also done, and unlike his, it +is to be repeated no more.</p> + +<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Note—A Correction</span>—Col. George B. Currey was the author of +“The Tribute to the Ox Whip,” not Col. George L. Curry, as printed +in this number.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_384'>384</span> + <h2 class='c003'>COL. GEORGE L. CURRY’S TRIBUTE TO THE OX WHIP.</h2> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c006'> + <div>(Reprinted from Transactions of the Oregon Pioneer Association.)</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c011'>My task is to call from dust and dark forgetfulness +that advance banner of Americanism and progress—the +ox whip. Its crack was the command “Forward to the +nation.” Its sharp, keen accent proclaimed that obstacles +to prayers must be overcome. It waved aloft on the +prairies of the “Old West,” and pointing to the new, a +vast throng took up the westward march, which, keeping +step to the music of destiny, dashed across the broad +Missouri, rolled a living tide up the grassy slope of the +Platte, scaled the imperial heights of the Rocky Mountains, +and with “the tread of a giant and shout of a conquerer” +defied the heat, dust, thirst and hunger, the +desert heart of the continent, leaped the Blue Mountains, +paused but quailed not on the banks of the deep, +wide Columbia, where again the potential crack is heard +and the mighty, “rock-ribbed” walls of the Cascades are +stormed, and as the line rolls bravely over the giddy summit +the exultant driver gives a grand triumphant crack +into the stolid face of grand old Hood, the storm-clad +sentinel of the mountain fastness. The people have +reached their goal. The spell is broken. The errand has +lost its magic, its mission has been accomplished. A +state, with freedom’s diadem effulgent on its brow salutes +the eye, and dipping its young hand in the Pacific completes +the baptism of human liberty and proclaims an +“ocean-bound republic.” All hail and honor to the ox +whip, the symbol of the grand, achieving force of its +age.</p> + +<div class='figcenter id002'> +<img src='images/i_384a.jpg' alt='' class='ig001'> +<div class='ic003'> +<p>23.—Street, Oregon City,—about where the pioneers broke ranks.</p> +</div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_385'>385</span> + <h2 class='c003'>THE CAMP FIRES OF THE PIONEERS.</h2> +</div> +<h3 class='c013'><i>VINCERE EST VIVERE!</i></h3> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c002'> + <div>By SAM L. SIMPSON.</div> + <div class='c002'>[Reprinted from Transactions of Pioneer Association.]</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c014'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Striking at ease his epic lyre,</div> + <div class='line in4'>The laureled Mantuan has sung</div> + <div class='line'>Beleagured Troy’s illustrious pyre—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The daring sail Æneas flung</div> + <div class='line'>To wayward gales, the voyage long</div> + <div class='line'>That tracks the silver wave of song;</div> + <div class='line'>Until the worn and weary oar</div> + <div class='line'>Has kissed the far Lavinian shore;</div> + <div class='line'>The Argo’s classic pennon streams</div> + <div class='line'>Along sweet horizons of dreams,—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The Mayflower has furled her wings,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And restfully at anchor swings—</div> + <div class='line'>Columbia chants to columned seas</div> + <div class='line'>The triumph of the Genoese,</div> + <div class='line'>And yet, stout hearts, no fitting meed</div> + <div class='line'>Of panegyric crowns your deed</div> + <div class='line in4'>From which a stately empire springs.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>The minions of a perfumed age</div> + <div class='line'>Already crowd upon the stage,—</div> + <div class='line'>The massive manhood of the past</div> + <div class='line'>In many a graceful mould is cast;</div> + <div class='line'>And yet with calm and kindly eyes</div> + <div class='line in4'>You view the feast for others spread,</div> + <div class='line'>And hail the blue benignant skies</div> + <div class='line in4'>Resigned and grandly comforted.</div> + <div class='line'>It was for this you broke the way</div> + <div class='line'>Before the sunset gates of day—</div> + <div class='line in4'>For this, with godlike faith endued,</div> + <div class='line'>You scaled the misty crags of fate,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And, with resounding labors, hewed</div> + <div class='line'>The Doric pillars of the state.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>There is no task for you to do—</div> + <div class='line in4'>Your tents are furled, the bugle blown—</div> + <div class='line'>But yet another day, and you</div> + <div class='line in4'>Will live in clustered fame alone.</div> + <div class='line'>The fir will chant a song of rue,</div> + <div class='line in4'>The pine will drop a wreath, may be,</div> + <div class='line'>And o’er the dim Cascades the stars</div> + <div class='line'>Will nightly roll the gleaming cars</div> + <div class='line in4'>You followed well from sea to sea.</div> + <div class='line in8'>Before your scarred battalion’s wheel</div> + <div class='line in4'>Into the mystic realm of shade,</div> + <div class='line in8'>And on your grizzled brows the seal</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of mystery is softly laid,</div> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_386'>386</span>Once more around your old campfires,</div> + <div class='line'>That smoulder like fulfilled desires,</div> + <div class='line'>Rehearse the story of your toils</div> + <div class='line'>Display the hero crowned with spoils—</div> + <div class='line in8'>The glimmer of triumphant steel,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Beneath the garland and the braid.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>O, further than the legions bore</div> + <div class='line in4'>The eagles of Imperial Rome—</div> + <div class='line in8'>Three thousand miles, a weary march,</div> + <div class='line in8'>You followed Hesper’s golden torch,</div> + <div class='line'>Until it stooped on this green shore,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And lit the rosy fires of home.</div> + <div class='line'>It was a solemn morn you turned</div> + <div class='line'>And quenched the sacred flames that burned</div> + <div class='line in4'>On hearths endeared for years and years;</div> + <div class='line in8'>It seemed your very souls grew dark</div> + <div class='line in8'>With those sweet fires—the latest spark</div> + <div class='line in4'>Was drowned in bitter, bitter tears.</div> + <div class='line'>A softer, sweeter sunlight wrapt</div> + <div class='line in4'>The forms of all familiar things,</div> + <div class='line'>And as each cord of feeling snapt</div> + <div class='line in4'>Another angel furled its wings:</div> + <div class='line'>The lights and shadows in the lane,</div> + <div class='line in4'>The oak beside the foot-worn stile</div> + <div class='line in4'>Whose wheeling shades a weary while</div> + <div class='line'>Had told the hours of joy and pain—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The vine that clambered o’er the door</div> + <div class='line in4'>And many a purple cluster bore—</div> + <div class='line'>The vestal flowers of household love—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The sloping roof that wore the stain</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of summer sun and winter rain,</div> + <div class='line'>And smoky chimney tops above—</div> + <div class='line'>The beauty of the orchard trees,</div> + <div class='line'>Bedecked with blossoms, glad with bees—</div> + <div class='line'>The brook that all the livelong day</div> + <div class='line'>Had many things to sing and say—</div> + <div class='line'>All these upon your vision dwell</div> + <div class='line'>And weave the sorrow of farewell.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>And now the last good-bye is said—</div> + <div class='line'>Good-bye! the living and the dead</div> + <div class='line'>In those sad words together speak,</div> + <div class='line'>And all your chosen ways are bleak!</div> + <div class='line in4'>Forward! The cracking lashes send</div> + <div class='line'>A thrill of action down the train,—</div> + <div class='line in4'>Their brawny necks the oxen bend</div> + <div class='line'>With creaking yoke and clanking chain;</div> + <div class='line in4'>The horsemen gallop down the line,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And swerve around the lowing kine</div> + <div class='line'>That straggle loosely on the plain—</div> + <div class='line in4'>And lift glad hands to babes that laugh</div> + <div class='line in4'>And dash the buttercups like chaff.</div> + <div class='line'>Hurrah! the skies are jewel blue—</div> + <div class='line in4'>In tasseled green and braided gold</div> + <div class='line in4'>The robes of April are enrolled,</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_387'>387</span>And hopes are high and hearts are true!</div> + <div class='line'>Hurrah! hurrah! the bold, the free—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The sudden sweep of ecstacy</div> + <div class='line'>That lifts the soul on wings of fire,</div> + <div class='line'>When fears consume and doubts expire,</div> + <div class='line'>And life, in one red torrent, leaps</div> + <div class='line'>To join the march of boundless deeps!</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>And now the sun is dropping down</div> + <div class='line'>And lights and shadows, red and brown</div> + <div class='line in4'>Are weaving sunset’s purple spell:</div> + <div class='line'>The teams are freed, the fires are made,</div> + <div class='line'>Like scarlet night flow’rs in the shade,</div> + <div class='line'>And pleasant groups before, between,</div> + <div class='line'>Are thronging in the fitful sheen—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The day is done, and “all is well.”</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>So pass the days, so fall the nights;</div> + <div class='line'>A banquet of renewed delights;</div> + <div class='line in4'>The old horizons lift and pass</div> + <div class='line in8'>In magic changes like a dream,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And in the heavens’ azure glass</div> + <div class='line in8'>Tomorrow’s jasper arches gleam—</div> + <div class='line in4'>With many a vale and mountain mass,</div> + <div class='line in8'>And many a singing, shining stream.</div> + <div class='line'>The post is dead and daisied now—</div> + <div class='line'>In shadow fades from heart and brow—</div> + <div class='line'>The air is incense, and the breeze</div> + <div class='line'>Is sweet with siren melodies,</div> + <div class='line'>And all the castled hills before</div> + <div class='line'>In blooming vistas sweep and soar</div> + <div class='line'>Like silver lace, the clouds are strewn</div> + <div class='line'>Along the distant, dreamy zone;</div> + <div class='line'>It is a happy, happy time,</div> + <div class='line'>As wayward as a poet’s rhyme,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And ever as the sun goes down</div> + <div class='line in8'>The west is shut with rosy bars,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And Night puts on her golden crown</div> + <div class='line in8'>And fills the vases of the stars.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>A hundred nights, a hundred days,</div> + <div class='line'>Nor folded cloud nor silken haze</div> + <div class='line'>Mellow the sun’s midsummer blaze.</div> + <div class='line'>Along a brown and barren plain</div> + <div class='line'>In silence drags the wasted train;</div> + <div class='line'>The dust starts up beneath your tread,</div> + <div class='line'>Like angry ashes of the dead,</div> + <div class='line'>To blind you with a choking cloud</div> + <div class='line'>And wrap you in a yellow shroud.</div> + <div class='line in4'>There are no birds to sing your joy,</div> + <div class='line in8'>You have no joy for birds to sing,—</div> + <div class='line in4'>A hundred fangs your hearts destroy—</div> + <div class='line in8'>A thousand troubles fret and sting.</div> + <div class='line'>The desert mocks you all the while</div> + <div class='line'>With that dry shimmer of a smile</div> + <div class='line in4'>That dazzles on a bleaching skull,—</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_388'>388</span>The bloom is withered on your cheek</div> + <div class='line'>You slowly move and lowly speak,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And every eye is dim and dull.</div> + <div class='line'>Alas, it is a lonesome land</div> + <div class='line'>Of bitter sage and barren sand</div> + <div class='line in4'>Under a bitter, barren sky</div> + <div class='line'>That never heard the robin sing,</div> + <div class='line'>Nor kissed the larks’s exultant wing,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Nor breathed a rose’s fragrant sigh!</div> + <div class='line'>A weary land—alas! alas!</div> + <div class='line'>The shadows of the vultures pass—</div> + <div class='line in4'>A spectral sign across your path;</div> + <div class='line'>The gaunt, gray wolf, with head askance</div> + <div class='line'>Throws back at you a scowlling glance</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of cringing hate and coward wrath.</div> + <div class='line'>And like a wraith accursed and banned</div> + <div class='line'>Fades out before your lifted hand;</div> + <div class='line'>A dim, sad land, forgot, forsworn</div> + <div class='line'>By all bright life that may not mourn—</div> + <div class='line'>Acrazed with glist’ning ghosts of seas</div> + <div class='line'>In broideries of flower and trees,</div> + <div class='line'>And rivers, blue and cool, that seem</div> + <div class='line'>To ripple as in fevered dream—</div> + <div class='line'>Only to taunt the thirst, and fly</div> + <div class='line'>From withered lips and lurid eye.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>A hundred days, a hundred nights—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The goal is farther than before,</div> + <div class='line'>And all the changing shades and lights</div> + <div class='line in4'>Are wrought in fancy’s woof no more.</div> + <div class='line'>The sun is weary overhead,</div> + <div class='line'>And pallid deserts round you spread</div> + <div class='line in4'>A sorrowful eternity;</div> + <div class='line'>And if some grisly mountain here</div> + <div class='line'>Confront your march with forms of fear,</div> + <div class='line in4'>You turn aside and pass them by.</div> + <div class='line'>And all are overworn—the flesh</div> + <div class='line'>Is now a frayed and faded mesh</div> + <div class='line in4'>That will not mask the inward flame;</div> + <div class='line'>There is no longer any care</div> + <div class='line'>To round the speech, or speak men fair,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Or any gentle sense of shame;</div> + <div class='line'>The hearts of all are shifted through—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The grain drops through the windy husks</div> + <div class='line'>And false lights flick’ring round the true</div> + <div class='line in4'>Are quenched at last in dews and dusk.</div> + <div class='line'>And some are silent, some are loud</div> + <div class='line'>And rage like beasts among the crowd,—</div> + <div class='line'>And some are mild, and some are sharp</div> + <div class='line'>In word and deed, and snarl and carp,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And fret the camp with petty broils;</div> + <div class='line'>And some of temper, sweet and bland,</div> + <div class='line'>Do seem to bear a magic wand</div> + <div class='line in4'>That wins the secret of their toils—</div> + <div class='line'>Rare souls that waste like sandal-wood</div> + <div class='line'>In many a fragrant deed and mood;</div> + <div class='line'>And some invoke the wrath of God,</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_389'>389</span>Or feign to kiss the burning rod,—</div> + <div class='line'>And some, may be, with better prayers,</div> + <div class='line'>Stand up in all their griefs and cares</div> + <div class='line'>And clinch their teeth, and do and die</div> + <div class='line'>Without a whine, a curse or cry.</div> + <div class='line'>And so the dust and grit and stain</div> + <div class='line'>Of travel wears into the grain;</div> + <div class='line'>And so the hearts and souls of men</div> + <div class='line'>Were darkly tried and tested then</div> + <div class='line'>That, in the happy after years,</div> + <div class='line'>When rainbows gild remembered tears,</div> + <div class='line'>Should any friend inquire of you</div> + <div class='line'>If such or such an one you knew—</div> + <div class='line'>I hear the answer, terse and grim,</div> + <div class='line'>“Ah, yes; I crossed the plains with him!”</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>And, lo! a moaning phantom stands,</div> + <div class='line'>To greet you in the lonely lands,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Among all lesser shadows, dight</div> + <div class='line'>With spoils of death; his meager hands</div> + <div class='line'>Salute you as you pass, and claim</div> + <div class='line in4'>The sacrifice that feeds his flame.</div> + <div class='line'>The march has broken into flight,</div> + <div class='line'>And wreck and ruin strew the road</div> + <div class='line'>The flaming phantom has bestrode;</div> + <div class='line in4'>The ox lies gasping in his yoke</div> + <div class='line in8'>Beside the wagon that he drew—</div> + <div class='line'>Where the forsaken campfires smoke</div> + <div class='line in8'>To hopeless skies of tawny blue;</div> + <div class='line'>And here are straight, still mounds that mark</div> + <div class='line'>The flight of life’s delusive spark—</div> + <div class='line'>The somber points of pause that lie</div> + <div class='line'>So thick in human destiny.</div> + <div class='line in4'>And oh, so dark on this bleak page</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of drifting sand and dreary sage!</div> + <div class='line in8'>The sultry levels of the day,</div> + <div class='line in4'>The night with weird enchantment fills,</div> + <div class='line in8'>And frowning forests stretch away</div> + <div class='line in4'>Along the slopes of shadow hills;</div> + <div class='line'>And in the solemn stillness breaks</div> + <div class='line in4'>The wild-wolf music of the plain,</div> + <div class='line'>As if a deeper sorrow wakes</div> + <div class='line in4'>The dreary dead in that refrain</div> + <div class='line in8'>That swells and gathers like a wail</div> + <div class='line in8'>Of woe from Pluto’s ebon pale,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And sinks in pulseless calm again.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>A change at last!—an opal mist</div> + <div class='line in4'>Along the faint horizon’s rim</div> + <div class='line'>Is banked against the amethyst</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of summer sky—so far, so dim,</div> + <div class='line'>You shade your eyes, and gaze and gaze,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Until there wavers into sight</div> + <div class='line in4'>A swinging, swaying strand of white,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And then the sapphire walls and towns</div> + <div class='line in4'>That breaks the light in quiv’ring showers</div> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_390'>390</span>And float and fade in diamond haze;—</div> + <div class='line in4'>It is the mountains!—grand and calm</div> + <div class='line in8'>As God upon his awful throne;</div> + <div class='line in4'>They build you strength and breathe you balm,</div> + <div class='line in8'>For all their templed might of stone</div> + <div class='line in4'>Is our eternal sculptured psalm!</div> + <div class='line'>And now your western course is led</div> + <div class='line'>Where grassy pampas spread and spread</div> + <div class='line in4'>The pastures of the buffalo;</div> + <div class='line in8'>And like the sudden lash of foam</div> + <div class='line in8'>When tropic tempest smite the sea</div> + <div class='line in4'>And masts are stript to ward the blow—</div> + <div class='line'>A ragged whirl of dust described</div> + <div class='line'>Upon the prairie’s sloping side</div> + <div class='line in8'>Portends a storm as swift and free,—</div> + <div class='line in8'>And lo, the herds—they come! they come!</div> + <div class='line'>A sweeping thunder cloud of life</div> + <div class='line in4'>Loud as Niagara, and grand</div> + <div class='line in4'>As they who rode with plume and brand</div> + <div class='line'>On Waterloo’s red slope of strife;</div> + <div class='line'>Wild as the rush of tidal waves,</div> + <div class='line'>That roar among the crags and caves,</div> + <div class='line in4'>The trampling besom hurls along—</div> + <div class='line'>A black and bounding, fiery mass</div> + <div class='line'>That withers, as with flame, the grass—</div> + <div class='line in4'>O! terrible—ten thousand strong!</div> + <div class='line'>Meanwhile, the dusty teams are stopt,</div> + <div class='line'>The wagon tongues are deftly dropt,</div> + <div class='line'>And drivers by their oxen stand</div> + <div class='line'>And soothe them with soft speech and hand.</div> + <div class='line in4'>And yet, with horns tossed free, and eyes</div> + <div class='line in8'>Ablaze with purple depths of ire,</div> + <div class='line in8'>A thousand servile years expire</div> + <div class='line in2'>And flashes of old nature rise,</div> + <div class='line'>As if a sudden spirit woke</div> + <div class='line'>That would not brook the chain and yoke,—</div> + <div class='line'>And then, the stormy pageant past,</div> + <div class='line'>They bow their callous necks at last,</div> + <div class='line'>And with a heavy stride and slow,</div> + <div class='line'>The dreams of liberty forego.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Alas! it is a land of shades.</div> + <div class='line in4'>And mystic visions, swift alarms;</div> + <div class='line'>The fretted spirit flames and fades</div> + <div class='line in4'>With clanging calls to prayers or arms.</div> + <div class='line'>* * * The day is dying, and the sun</div> + <div class='line'>Hangs like a jewel rich with fire</div> + <div class='line'>In the deep west of your desire.</div> + <div class='line'>And o’er the wide plateau is rolled</div> + <div class='line'>A surge of crinkled sunset gold,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Bordered with shadows gray and dun.</div> + <div class='line'>A horseman with loose, waving hair,</div> + <div class='line'>Black as the blackest of despair,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Wheels into sight and gives you heed,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And on its haunches reins his steed,</div> + <div class='line in4'>All quivering like a river reed,</div> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_391'>391</span>And sits him like a statue there,—</div> + <div class='line'>Transfigured in the sunset sea—</div> + <div class='line'>A bronze, bare sphynx of mystery!</div> + <div class='line'>A moment thus, in wonder lost,</div> + <div class='line'>His eagle plumes all backward tossed,</div> + <div class='line'>Then wheels again, as swift as wind,</div> + <div class='line'>The wild hair floating free behind.</div> + <div class='line'>And sunset’s crinkled surges pour</div> + <div class='line'>Along an empty waste once more!</div> + <div class='line'>But you, since that fantastic shade</div> + <div class='line'>Across your desert path has played,</div> + <div class='line'>Distrust the very ground you tread,</div> + <div class='line'>And shiver with a nameless dread</div> + <div class='line'>Till stars drop crimson, and the sky</div> + <div class='line'>Is wan with heartless treachery.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>For many days a form of white</div> + <div class='line'>Has flashed and faded in your sight</div> + <div class='line'>In fleeting glimpses, as of wings,</div> + <div class='line'>Our God’s bright palm in beckonings.</div> + <div class='line'>It is a secret nursed of each—</div> + <div class='line'>You dare not give the thought in speech,</div> + <div class='line'>So wierdly solemn is the sign—</div> + <div class='line in4'>As if, upon the western stairs,</div> + <div class='line in4'>The angels of a thousand prayers</div> + <div class='line'>Were come with sacred bread and wine.</div> + <div class='line'>Again, the still, enchanted hour</div> + <div class='line'>Of sunset burns in crimson flower,</div> + <div class='line'>And purple-hearted shadows sleep</div> + <div class='line'>Like clustered pansies, warm and deep,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Eastward of wreathen crag and wall.</div> + <div class='line'>The road that wound and wound all day</div> + <div class='line'>In many a dark and devious way</div> + <div class='line'>At last with one swift curve ascends</div> + <div class='line'>A rolling plain that breaks and bends</div> + <div class='line in4'>Westward, till rosy curtains fall</div> + <div class='line in4'>O’er mountains massed and magical.</div> + <div class='line'>Resplendent as a pearly tent</div> + <div class='line'>Upon the fir-fringed battlement—</div> + <div class='line'>Serene in sunset gold and rose,</div> + <div class='line'>A pyramid of splendor glows,</div> + <div class='line'>So vast and calm and bright your dream</div> + <div class='line'>Is dust and ashes in its gleam.</div> + <div class='line'>A maiden speaks—“He led us far—</div> + <div class='line'>It is the golden western star!”</div> + <div class='line'>And then a youth—“Our goal is won—</div> + <div class='line'>’Tis the pavilion of the sun.”</div> + <div class='line'>A gray sage, then, in undertone—</div> + <div class='line'>“It must be Hood, so grand and lone—</div> + <div class='line'>The shining citadel and throne</div> + <div class='line'>Of Terminus, that Roman god</div> + <div class='line'>Who marked the line that legions trod,</div> + <div class='line'>And set the limits of the world</div> + <div class='line'>Where Cæsar’s battle flags were furled!</div> + <div class='line'>Oh, for the days of dark-eyed prophetess</div> + <div class='line'>Who sang in Syrian wilderness</div> + <div class='line in4'>The gilded chariots’ overthrow,</div> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_392'>392</span>To lead us for the cymbaled song</div> + <div class='line'>To him, the beautiful and strong,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Who dashed the brimming cup of woe</div> + <div class='line'>And was our cloud and flame so long!”</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Forward! the crested mountains kneel</div> + <div class='line'>To patient tolls of fire and steel—</div> + <div class='line'>A way is hewn and you emerge</div> + <div class='line'>Upon the Cascades’ battled verge;—</div> + <div class='line in4'>And far beneath you and away</div> + <div class='line in8'>To ocean’s shining fringe of foam</div> + <div class='line in4'>And summer vail of floating spray,</div> + <div class='line'>Behold the land of your emprise,</div> + <div class='line'>Serene as tender twilight skies</div> + <div class='line in8'>When day is swooning into gloam!</div> + <div class='line'>It is the morning twilight now</div> + <div class='line'>That wraps the valley’s misted brow;</div> + <div class='line'>The bourgeoning and blooming dawn—</div> + <div class='line'>The reveille of Oregon.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>How brightly on your vision, first</div> + <div class='line'>The pictured vales and woodlands burst,—</div> + <div class='line'>The lakelets set like twinkling gems</div> + <div class='line'>Along the prairies’ pleated hems,—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The silver crooks and rippled sweeps</div> + <div class='line in8'>Of happy rivers here and there,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And many a waterfall that leaps</div> + <div class='line in8'>In rainbow garlands through the air,—</div> + <div class='line in4'>The skirted maples and the groves</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of oak the mild home-spirit loves—</div> + <div class='line in4'>Enameled plains and crenelled hills</div> + <div class='line in4'>And tangled skeins of brooks and rills,—</div> + <div class='line'>Imperial forests of the fir,</div> + <div class='line'>All redolent of musk and myrrh,</div> + <div class='line'>That fling and furl their banners old,</div> + <div class='line'>And still their gloomy secret hold</div> + <div class='line in4'>As Time his cloudy censer fills.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Where the foothills are wedded to the meadow</div> + <div class='line in4'>In the dimples that dally and pass</div> + <div class='line'>And the oak swings an indolent shadow</div> + <div class='line in4'>On the daisies that dial the grass.—</div> + <div class='line'>In the crescents of rivers; in hollows</div> + <div class='line in4'>Red-lipped in the strawberry time,</div> + <div class='line'>And the slope where the forests half follows,</div> + <div class='line in4'>A brooklet’s melodious rhyme,—</div> + <div class='line'>On the sun-rippled knolls, and the prairies,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Beloved of the wandering kine—</div> + <div class='line'>In the skirts of the woodland the fairies</div> + <div class='line in4'>Embroidered with rose and with vine—</div> + <div class='line'>There’s a tent, and a smoke that is curling</div> + <div class='line in4'>Above in the beautiful dome,</div> + <div class='line'>Like a guardian spirit unfurling</div> + <div class='line in4'>Soft wings o’er the temple of home.</div> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_393'>393</span>And the ax of the woodman is ringing</div> + <div class='line in4'>All day in sylvestrian halls,</div> + <div class='line'>Where the chipmunk is playfully springing</div> + <div class='line in4'>And the blue-jay discordantly calls;</div> + <div class='line'>And the red chips are fitfully flying</div> + <div class='line in4'>On the asters that sprinkle the moss;</div> + <div class='line'>Where the beauty of summer is dying,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And the sun lances glimmer across;</div> + <div class='line'>There’s a bird that is spectrally knocking,</div> + <div class='line in4'>On a pine that is withered and bare,</div> + <div class='line'>For the fir-top is trembling and rocking,</div> + <div class='line in4'>In the blue of the clear upper air—</div> + <div class='line'>There’s a crackling of fiber—the crashing</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of a century crushed at a blow,</div> + <div class='line'>And the fir-trees are wringing and lashing</div> + <div class='line in4'>Their hands in a frenzy of woe!</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>A pheasant whirs up from the thicket</div> + <div class='line in4'>In the hush that comes after the fall,</div> + <div class='line'>And the squirrel retires to his wicket,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And the bluebird renounces his call;</div> + <div class='line'>And the panther lies crouched by the bowlder</div> + <div class='line in4'>In the gloom of the canyon anear,</div> + <div class='line'>And the brown bear looks over his shoulder,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And the buck blows a signal of fear;</div> + <div class='line'>But there’s never a pause in your duty,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And the echoing ax is not still</div> + <div class='line'>As you waste with the green temples of beauty</div> + <div class='line in4'>For the puncheon and rafter and sill</div> + <div class='line'>That are wrought in a cabin so lowly</div> + <div class='line in4'>The trees will clasp hands over head,</div> + <div class='line'>But the heart calls it home, and the holy</div> + <div class='line in4'>Love-lights on its hearthstone are shed.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>It is staunch and rough-hewn, and the ceiling</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of the fragrant red cedar is made,</div> + <div class='line'>With an edging of silver revealing</div> + <div class='line in4'>A picture of sunlight and shade.</div> + <div class='line'>And the Word has its place, not a trifle</div> + <div class='line in4'>Obscured in a pageant of books,</div> + <div class='line'>And above the broad mantle your rifle</div> + <div class='line in4'>Is hung on accessible hooks.</div> + <div class='line'>Oh, the freshness of hope and of fancy</div> + <div class='line in4'>That illumines the home and the heart,</div> + <div class='line'>With the grace of a bright necromancy</div> + <div class='line in4'>That excels the adorning of art!</div> + <div class='line'>And you rise and look forth and the glory</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of Hood is before you again,</div> + <div class='line'>And the sun weaves a gold-threaded story</div> + <div class='line in4'>In the purple of mountain and glen.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Stand up, and look out from the mansion</div> + <div class='line in4'>That adorns the old scene of the past</div> + <div class='line'>On the fruitage of hope—the expansion</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of the fruits of your vigils forecast!</div> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_394'>394</span>While the shadows of Hood have been wheeling</div> + <div class='line in4'>Away from the face of the sun,</div> + <div class='line'>What a glamour of change has been stealing</div> + <div class='line in4'>On the fields that you painfully won!</div> + <div class='line'>Like the castles that fade at cock-crowing</div> + <div class='line in4'>The enchantments arise and advance</div> + <div class='line'>Where the cities of commerce are glowing</div> + <div class='line in4'>Like pearls in the braids of romance;</div> + <div class='line'>For a state, in the shimmering armor</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of the Pallas Athena has come,</div> + <div class='line'>And her ægis is fringed with the warmer</div> + <div class='line in4'>Refulgence that circles our home.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>As for you, you are gray, and the thunder</div> + <div class='line in4'>Of the battle has smitten each brow</div> + <div class='line'>Where the freshness of youth was turned under</div> + <div class='line in4'>By Time’s immemorial plow;</div> + <div class='line'>But the pictures of memory linger,</div> + <div class='line in4'>Like the shadows that turn to the East,</div> + <div class='line'>And will point with a tremulous finger</div> + <div class='line in4'>To the things that are perished and ceased;</div> + <div class='line'>For the trail and the foot-log have vanished,</div> + <div class='line in4'>The canoe is a song and a tale,</div> + <div class='line'>And flickering church spire has banished</div> + <div class='line in4'>The uncanny red man from the vale;</div> + <div class='line'>The cayuse is no longer in fashion—</div> + <div class='line in4'>He is gone—with a flutter of heels,</div> + <div class='line'>And the old wars are dead, and their passions</div> + <div class='line in4'>In the crystal of culture congeals;</div> + <div class='line'>And the wavering flare of the pitch light</div> + <div class='line in4'>That illumines your banquets no more,</div> + <div class='line'>Will return like a wandering witch-light</div> + <div class='line in4'>And uncrimson the fancies of yore—</div> + <div class='line'>When you dance the “Old Arkansaw” gaily</div> + <div class='line in4'>In brogans that had followed the bear,</div> + <div class='line'>And quaffed the delight of Castaly</div> + <div class='line in4'>From the fiddle that wailed like despair;</div> + <div class='line'>And so lightly you wrought with the hammer,</div> + <div class='line in4'>And so truly with ax and with plow—</div> + <div class='line'>And you blazed your own trails through the grammar,</div> + <div class='line in4'>As the record must fairly allow;</div> + <div class='line'>But you builded a state in whose arches</div> + <div class='line in4'>Shall be carven the deed and the name,</div> + <div class='line'>And posterity lengthens its marches</div> + <div class='line in4'>In the golden starlight of your fame!</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_395'>395</span> + <h2 class='c003'>PILGRIMS OF THE PLAINS.</h2> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c006'> + <div>By <span class='sc'>Joaquin Miller</span>.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c015'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>A tale half told and hardly understood;</div> + <div class='line'>The talk of bearded men that chanced to meet,</div> + <div class='line'>That lean’d on long quaint rifles in the wood,</div> + <div class='line'>That look’d in fellow faces, spoke discreet</div> + <div class='line'>And low, as half in doubt and in defeat</div> + <div class='line'>Of hope; a tale it was of lands of gold</div> + <div class='line'>That lay toward the sun. Wild wing’d and fleet</div> + <div class='line'>It spread among the swift Missouri’s bold</div> + <div class='line'>Unbridled men, and reach’d to where Ohio roll’d.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Then long chain’d lines of yoked and patient steers;</div> + <div class='line'>Then long white trains that pointed to the west;</div> + <div class='line'>Beyond the savage west; the hopes and fears</div> + <div class='line'>Of blunt, untutor’d men, who hardly guess’d</div> + <div class='line'>Their course; the brave and silent women, dress’d</div> + <div class='line'>In homely spun attire, the boys in bands,</div> + <div class='line'>The cheery babes that laughed at all and bless’d</div> + <div class='line'>The doubting hearts with laughing lifted hands—</div> + <div class='line'>What exodus for far untraversed lands!</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>The Plains! The shouting drivers at the wheel;</div> + <div class='line'>The crash of leather whips; the crush and roll</div> + <div class='line'>Of wheels; the groan of yokes and grinding steel</div> + <div class='line'>And iron chain, and lo! at last the whole</div> + <div class='line'>Vast line, that reached as if to touch the goal,</div> + <div class='line'>Began to stretch and stream away and wind</div> + <div class='line'>Toward the west, as if with one control:</div> + <div class='line'>Then hope loom’d fair, and home lay far behind;</div> + <div class='line'>Before, the boundless plain, and fiercest of their kind.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>At first the way lay green and fresh as seas,</div> + <div class='line'>And far away as any reach of wave;</div> + <div class='line'>The sunny streams went by in belt of trees;</div> + <div class='line'>And here and there the tassell’d tawny brave</div> + <div class='line'>Swept by on horse, looked back, stretched forth and gave</div> + <div class='line'>A yell of hell, and then did wheel and rein</div> + <div class='line'>Awhile and point away, dark-brow’d and grave,</div> + <div class='line'>Into the far and dim and distant plain</div> + <div class='line'>With signs and prophecies, and then plunged on again.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Some hills at last began to lift and break;</div> + <div class='line'>Some streams began to fail of wood and tide,</div> + <div class='line'>The somber plain began betime to take</div> + <div class='line'>A hue of weary brown, and wild and wide</div> + <div class='line'>It stretch’d its naked breast on every side.</div> + <div class='line'>A babe was heard at last to cry for bread</div> + <div class='line'>Amid the deserts; cattle low’d and died,</div> + <div class='line'>And dying men went by with broken tread,</div> + <div class='line'>And left a long black serpent line of wreck and dead.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='pageno' id='Page_396'>396</span>Strange hunger’d birds, black-wing’d and still as death,</div> + <div class='line'>And crown’d of red and hooked beaks, flew low</div> + <div class='line'>And close about till we could touch their breath—</div> + <div class='line'>Strange unnamed birds, that seem’d to come and go</div> + <div class='line'>In circles now, and now direct and slow,</div> + <div class='line'>Continual, yet never touch the earth;</div> + <div class='line'>Slim foxes shied and shuttled to and fro</div> + <div class='line'>At times across the dusty weary dearth</div> + <div class='line'>Of life, looked back, then sank like crickets in a hearth.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Then dust arose, a long dim line like smoke</div> + <div class='line'>From out of riven earth. The wheels went groaning by,</div> + <div class='line'>The thousand feet in harness, and in yoke,</div> + <div class='line'>They tore the ways of ashen alkali,</div> + <div class='line'>And desert winds blew sudden, swift, and dry.</div> + <div class='line'>The dust! It sat upon and fill’d the train.</div> + <div class='line'>It seem’d to fret and fill the very sky.</div> + <div class='line'>Lo! dust upon the beasts, the tent, the plain,</div> + <div class='line'>And dust, alas! on breasts that rose not up again.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>They sat in desolation and in dust</div> + <div class='line'>By dried-up desert streams; the mother’s hands</div> + <div class='line'>Hid all her bended face; the cattle thrust</div> + <div class='line'>Their tongues and faintly called across the lands.</div> + <div class='line'>The babes that knew not what the way through sands</div> + <div class='line'>Could mean, did ask if it would end today.</div> + <div class='line'>The panting wolves slid by, red-eyed, in bands</div> + <div class='line'>To pools beyond. The men look’d far away,</div> + <div class='line'>And silent deemed that all a boundless desert lay.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>They rose by night, they struggl’d on and on</div> + <div class='line'>As thin and still as ghosts; then here and there</div> + <div class='line'>Beside the dusty way before the dawn,</div> + <div class='line'>Men silent laid them down in their despair,</div> + <div class='line'>And died. But woman! Woman, frail as fair!</div> + <div class='line'>May man have strength to give to you your due;</div> + <div class='line'>You falter’d not nor murmur’d anywhere,</div> + <div class='line'>You held your babes, held to your course, and you</div> + <div class='line'>Bore on through burning hell your double burdens through.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>Men stood at last, the decimated few,</div> + <div class='line'>Above a land of running streams, and they?</div> + <div class='line'>They pushed aside the boughs, and peering through</div> + <div class='line'>Beheld afar the cool refreshing bay;</div> + <div class='line'>Then some did curse, and some bend hands to pray;</div> + <div class='line'>But some looked back upon the desert wide</div> + <div class='line'>And desolate with death, then all the day</div> + <div class='line'>They mourned. But one, with nothing left beside</div> + <div class='line'>His dog to love, crept down among the ferns and died.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_397'>397</span> + <h2 class='c003'>PIONEERS OF THE PACIFIC</h2> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c006'> + <div>BY JOAQUIN MILLER.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b c015'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>The wild man’s yell, the groaning wheel,</div> + <div class='line'>The train moved like drifting barge;</div> + <div class='line'>The dust rose up like a cloud,</div> + <div class='line'>Like smoke of distant battle loud! Loud</div> + <div class='line'>The great whips rang like shot, and steel</div> + <div class='line'>Flashed back as in some battle charge.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>They sought, yea, they did find their rest</div> + <div class='line'>Along that long and lonesome way,</div> + <div class='line'>Those brave men buffeting the West</div> + <div class='line'>With lifted faces. Full they were</div> + <div class='line'>Of great endeavor.</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'> · · · · ·</div> + </div> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in24'>When</div> + <div class='line'>Adown the shining iron track</div> + <div class='line'>We sweep, and fields of corn flash back,</div> + <div class='line'>And herds of lowing steers move by,</div> + <div class='line'>I turn to other days, to men</div> + <div class='line'>Who made a pathway with their dust.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_398'>398</span> + <h2 class='c003'>DOCUMENT.</h2> +</div> + +<p class='c011'>The following is one of a set of documents giving +contemporary evidence on a most important epoch of +Oregon history. It was secured by Principal J. R. +Wilson.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c014'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>(From the New Orleans Picayune, November 21, 1848.)</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<h3 class='c013'>PRAIRIE AND MOUNTAIN LIFE—THE OREGON EMIGRANTS.</h3> + +<p class='c016'>During our detention among the upper settlements, +before starting out, a constant source of interest to us +was the gathering of people bound to Oregon. One +Sunday morning, about the usual church hour in a +larger place, five or six wagons passed through the town +of Westport, and one old man with silver hair was with +the party. Women and children were walking, fathers +and brothers were driving loose cattle or managing the +heavy teams, and keen-eyed youngsters, with their chins +yet smooth and rifles on their shoulders, kept in advance +of the wagons with long strides, looking as if they were +already watching around the corners of the streets for +game. There was one striking feature about the party +which leads us to name it more particularly. Though +traveling on the Sabbath and through the little town +that was all quiet and resting from business in reverence +of the day, there was that in the appearance of the people +that banished at once even the remotest idea of profanation. +They were all clean, and evidently appareled +in their best Sunday gear. Their countenances were +sedate, and the women wore that mild composure of +visage—so pleasantly resigned, so eloquent of a calm +spirit, so ready to kindle up into smiles—that is seen +more often among churchgoers, perhaps, than in ballroom +or boudoir. Some of the women carried books, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_399'>399</span>and the prettiest girl carried hers open before her as she +stepped a little coquettishly through the dust of the road. +Whether she was reading, or trying, or pretending to +read, was hard to tell, but the action had a naive effect, +and as she passed she was, no doubt, much astonished +at a strange young gentleman who audibly addressed +her with, “Nymph, in thy orisons, be all my sins remembered.”</p> + +<p class='c009'>Many other small bodies of these adventurous travelers +crossed our notice at Independence, Westport, and at +encampments made in the vicinity of these and other +towns, but in their largest force we saw them just after +crossing the Kansas River about the first of June. The +Oregonians were assembled here to the number of six or +eight hundred, and when we passed their encampment +they were engaged in the business of electing officers to +regulate and conduct their proceedings. It was a curious +and unaccountable spectacle to us as we approached. +We saw a large body of men wheeling and marching +about the prairie, describing evolutions neither recognizable +as savage, civic or military. We soon knew they +were not Indians, and were not long in setting them +down for the emigrants, but what in the name of mystery +they were about our best guessing could not reduce +to anything in the shape of a mathematical probability.</p> + +<p class='c009'>On arriving among them, however, we found they +were only going on with their elections in a manner perhaps +old enough, but very new and quizzical to us. +The candidates stood up in a row behind the constituents, +and at a given signal they wheeled about and +marched off, while the general mass broke after them +“lick-a-ty-split”, each man forming in behind his favorite +so that every candidate flourished a sort of a tail of his +own, and the man with the longest tail was elected! These +proceedings were continued until a captain and a council +<span class='pageno' id='Page_400'>400</span>of ten were elected; and, indeed, if the scene can be +conceived, it must appear as a curious mingling of the +whimsical with the wild. Here was a congregation of +rough, bold, and adventurous men, gathered from distant +and opposite points of the Union, just forming an +acquaintance with each other, to last, in all probability, +through good or ill fortune, through the rest of their +days. Few of them expected, or thought, of ever returning +to the states again. They had with them their +wives and children, and aged, depending relatives. They +were going with stout and determined hearts to traverse +a wild and desolate region, and take possession of a +far corner of their country destined to prove a new and +strong arm of a mighty nation. These men were running +about the prairie, in long strings; the leaders,—in +sport and for the purpose of puzzling the judges, doubling +and winding in the drollest fashion; so that, the +all-important business of forming a government seemed +very much like the merry schoolboy game of “snapping +the whip.” It was really very funny to see the candidates +for the solemn council of ten, run several hundred +yards away, to show off the length of their tails, and +then cut a half circle, so as to turn and admire their +longitudinal popularity <i>in extenso</i> themselves. “Running +for office” is certainly performed in more literal +fashion on the prairie than we see the same sort of business +performed in town. To change the order of a town +election, though for once, it might prove an edifying +exhibition to see a mayor and aldermen start from the +town pump and run around the court house square, the +voters falling in behind and the rival ticket running the +other way, while a band in the middle might tune up +for both parties, playing “O, What a Long Tail Our Cat’s +Got;” which we surmise some popular composer may +have arranged for such an occasion.</p> + +<p class='c009'><span class='pageno' id='Page_401'>401</span>After passing them here, we never saw the Oregonians +again. They elected a young lawyer of some +eminence as we were told, named Burnett, as their captain, +and engaged an old mountaineer, known as Captain +Gant, as their guide through the mountains to Fort Hall. +Several enactments were made and agreed to, one of +which was called up to be rescinded, and something of +an excitement arose in regard to it. The law made was +that no family should drive along more than three head +of loose stock for each member composing it, and this +bore hard on families that had brought with them cattle +in large numbers. The dispute resulted in a split of +the large body into two or three divisions; and so they +moved on, making distinct encampments all the way. +Captain Gant was to receive $1.00 a head from the company, +numbering about a thousand souls, for his services +as guide. But a few more such expeditions following in +the same trail will soon imprint such a highway through +the wilderness to Oregon that emigrants may hereafter +travel without such assistance.</p> + +<p class='c009'>We left them here about the last of May and encountered +no sign of them again until returning in September, +when we struck their trail on the Sweetwater, +near the south pass of the mountains. They had followed +in our own trail as far as this point and had +here turned off, our course lying in another direction. +From here, all the way to Fort Laramie, we found the +now deeply worn road strewn with indications of their +recent presence. Scaffolds for drying meat, broken utensils +thrown away, chips showing where wagons had been +repaired, and remnants of children’s shoes, frocks, etc., +met our notice at every deserted encampment.</p> + +<p class='c009'>But one death seemed to have occurred among them, +and this was far out under the mountains. Here the +loose riders of our moving camp gathered one morning +<span class='pageno' id='Page_402'>402</span>to examine a rude pyramid of stones by the roadside. +The stones had been planted firmly in the earth, and +those on top were substantially placed, so that the wolves, +whose marks were evident about the pile, had not been +able to disinter the dead. On one stone, larger than the +rest, and with a flat side, was rudely engraved:</p> + +<div class='border'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>J. HEMBREE.</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<p class='c017'>And we place it here as perhaps the only memento those +who knew him in the States may ever receive of him. +How he died, we of course cannot surmise, but there he +sleeps among the rocks of the West as soundly as if +chiseled marble was built above his bones.</p> + +<p class='c009'>On returning to Rock Independence, a point about +nine hundred miles from the settlements, we were astonished +at finding that the Oregonians had reached and +passed it only four days behind us. We had confidently +supposed them four weeks in our rear, and their rapid +progress augurs well for the success of their enterprise. +On the rock we found printed:</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>“THE OREGON CO.</div> + <div>arrived</div> + <div>July 26, 1843.”</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'>At Fort Laramie we were told that they were still +well provisioned when passing there, and could even +afford to trade away flour, coffee, etc., for necessaries of +other kinds. But it was droll to hear how the Sioux +stared at the great caravans. Some of them on seeing +the great number of wagons, and particularly white +women and children, for the first time, began to think +of coming down here, having seen, as they supposed, +“the whole white village” move up the mountains.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_403'>403</span> + <h2 class='c003'>INDEX.</h2> +</div> + +<div> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_405'>405</span> + <h3 class='c001'>TOPICAL INDEX.</h3> +</div> + +<ul class='index c002'> + <li class='c018'>ADAMS— + <ul> + <li>Proposals on the Oregon Question, 220</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>ASTORIA— + <ul> + <li>Settlement of, 10</li> + <li>Restitution of, to U. S., 214</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>BAYLIES— + <ul> + <li>Speeches of, on Oregon, 21</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>BENTON— + <ul> + <li>Oregon policy of, 13, 16, 50, 52</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>CALHOUN— + <ul> + <li>Opposition of, to Oregon bill, 235</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>CALIFORNIA— + <ul> + <li>Contract labor in mines of, 281</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>CARVER— + <ul> + <li>Use of word Oregon by, 112, 166</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>CHAMPOEG— + <ul> + <li>Origin of name, 88</li> + <li>Early life in, 88, 89</li> + <li>Early settlement near, 173</li> + <li>Early manners of, 172, 176</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>CHOLERA— + <ul> + <li>Ravages of, among immigrants to Oregon, 363</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>CLAY— + <ul> + <li>On the Oregon Question, 221</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>COLUMBIA RIVER— + <ul> + <li>Discovery of, 113</li> + <li>Proposed as boundary, 215</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>DOUGLAS— + <ul> + <li>Interest in Oregon Question, 40</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>ENGLAND— + <ul> + <li>Rivalry of, in Oregon Country, 6</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>EDUCATION— + <ul> + <li>Appropriation of public land for in Oregon, 148</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>FLOYD— + <ul> + <li>Oregon policy of, 13–17, 218</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>FREMONT— + <ul> + <li>Work of, in Oregon, 330</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>GOVERNMENT— + <ul> + <li>Lack of in early Oregon, 9, 10</li> + <li>First exercise of, 10, 11</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'><span class='pageno' id='Page_406'>406</span>GOLD— + <ul> + <li>Effect of early discoveries of, 103</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>GRAY— + <ul> + <li>Explorations of, 113</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>INDIANS— + <ul> + <li>Customs of, 77</li> + <li>Behavior toward white women, 82</li> + <li>Matthieu’s recollections of, 99</li> + <li>Religious customs of, 179</li> + <li>Legends of the, 183</li> + <li>Request of, for missionaries, 225, 346</li> + <li>First estimate of, in Oregon Country, 296</li> + <li>Position of women among the Oregon, 296</li> + <li>Funeral customs of, 300</li> + <li>Poor food supply of, 302</li> + <li>Estimate and census of Oregon Indians, 314</li> + <li>Language, peculiarities of, 317</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>JACKSON— + <ul> + <li>Effort of, to acquire San Francisco Bay, 228</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>KELLEY, HALL J.— + <ul> + <li>Visit to Oregon in 1834, 195</li> + <li>Work in Oregon, 224</li> + <li>Work of, 349</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>LEE— + <ul> + <li>Petition of, to Congress, 28, 29</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>LINN— + <ul> + <li>Oregon policy of, 26, 230, 235</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>LANDS— + <ul> + <li>Cession of state claims to western, 136</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>LANE— + <ul> + <li>Arrival in Oregon, 52</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>LEDYARD— + <ul> + <li>Plan of, for exploring Oregon, 115</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>LEWIS AND CLARK— + <ul> + <li>Plan for the expedition of, 120</li> + <li>Grant of land to, 144</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>LOUISIANA— + <ul> + <li>Purchase of, by U. S., 147</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>McLOUGHLIN— + <ul> + <li>Influence of, 11, 12</li> + <li>Notes on, 95, 96</li> + <li>Treatment of American settlers, 105</li> + <li>Domestic life of, 158</li> + <li>Trouble with American immigrants, 201</li> + <li>Hospital work of, 308</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>MISSIONARIES— + <ul> + <li>Early settlements of, in Oregon, 194, 196, 225</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>MONEY IN EARLY OREGON, 102</li> + <li class='c006'><span class='pageno' id='Page_407'>407</span>NOOTKA— + <ul> + <li>Convention of, 125</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>OREGON— + <ul> + <li>Original extent of, 4, 111</li> + <li>Primitive isolation of, 6</li> + <li>Territorial admission of, 52</li> + <li>Motives for statehood in, 53</li> + <li>Opposition to statehood in, 54</li> + <li>Constitutional Convention of, 55</li> + <li>Admission of, as a state, 58</li> + <li>Dangers of pioneer travel to, 61, 62</li> + <li>Characters of pioneers in, 63, 64</li> + <li>First use of the name, 112, 166</li> + <li>Spanish claims to, 122</li> + <li>Southern boundary of, fixed, 127</li> + <li>Russian claims to, 128</li> + <li>Northern boundary of, fixed, 127</li> + <li>School lands of, 154</li> + <li>Early American visitors to, 193</li> + <li>Early immigration to, 198</li> + <li>Dispute over northern boundary of, 215</li> + <li>Discussion over occupation of, 218</li> + <li>Character of early settlement in, 224</li> + <li>Fifty-four deg. 40 min. boundary of, 243</li> + <li>Settlement of northern boundary of, 251</li> + <li>Estimate and census of Indians in, 314</li> + <li>Condition of, in 1842, 327</li> + <li>Fur trade in, 329, 335</li> + <li>Motives for movement to, 352</li> + <li>Summary of negotiations for, 349</li> + <li>Difficulties of route to, 359</li> + <li>Estimate of immigrations to, 370</li> + <li>Character of immigrants to, 398</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>PARKMAN— + <ul> + <li>Estimate of work of, on Oregon Trail, 342</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>POLK— + <ul> + <li>Inaugural address on Oregon, 46</li> + <li>Message of, 1845 on Oregon, 47</li> + <li>Message of, 1847, 49</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>POPULATION MOVEMENT— + <ul> + <li>Effect on Oregon, 8</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>PROVISIONAL GOVERNMENT— + <ul> + <li>Notices for, 32, 33</li> + <li>First steps toward, 33</li> + <li>Objections to, 34, 35</li> + <li>Plan of, 36</li> + <li>Changes in, 37, 38</li> + <li>Effectiveness of, 39</li> + <li>Indian attitude toward, 40</li> + <li>Lane’s verdict on, 52</li> + <li>Notes on organization of, 91</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>SAUVIE’S ISLAND— + <ul> + <li>Indian population of, 310</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'><span class='pageno' id='Page_408'>408</span>SLACUM— + <ul> + <li>Visit of, to Oregon Country, 228</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>SLAVERY— + <ul> + <li>Influence of, on admission of Oregon Territory, 48, 50, 51, 147</li> + <li>In Constitutional Convention, 56</li> + <li>In early Oregon, 101</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>SOVEREIGNTY— + <ul> + <li>Occupation the test of, 123</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>TEXAS— + <ul> + <li>Influence of, on Oregon Question, 288</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>TYLER— + <ul> + <li>Message of, 1842 on Oregon, 41, 234</li> + <li>Message of, 1843, 44</li> + <li>Message of, 1844, 45</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c006'>WASHINGTON— + <ul> + <li>Territorial formation of, 53</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>WEBSTER— + <ul> + <li>Opinion of, on Oregon Question, 239</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>WHITE— + <ul> + <li>Appointment of, as sub-Indian agent, 31</li> + <li>Settlement of, in Oregon, 241</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>WHITMAN— + <ul> + <li>Character and aims of, 41, 42</li> + <li>Work of, 42, 241</li> + <li>Character of, 61</li> + <li>Matthieu’s estimate of, 85</li> + <li>Views of, on Oregon’s needs, 351</li> + <li>Influence of, 381</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>WILKES— + <ul> + <li>Work of, in Oregon, 333</li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c018'>WYETH— + <ul> + <li>Visits of, to Oregon, 194</li> + <li>Settlement in Oregon, 223</li> + </ul> + </li> +</ul> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c003'><span class='large'>PUBLICATIONS</span><br> <span class='small'>OF THE</span><br> <span class='sc'>Oregon Historical Society</span></h2> +</div> + +<h3 class='c008'>SOURCES OF THE HISTORY OF OREGON</h3> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c002'> + <div><span class='sc'>Volume I</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>Number 1.—Journal of Medorem Crawford—An Account of His +Trip Across the Plains in 1842. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p> + +<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>Number 2.—The Indian Council at Walla Walla, May and June, +1855, by Col. Lawrence Kip—A Journal. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p> + +<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>Numbers 3 to 6 Inclusive.—The Correspondence and Journals of +Captain Nathaniel J. Wyeth, 1831–6.—A Record of Two Expeditions, +for the Occupation of the Oregon Country, with Maps, Introduction +and Index. Price, $1.10.</span></p> + +<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>The Proceedings of the Oregon Historical Society for 1898–9, +Including Paper by Silas B. Smith, on “Beginnings in Oregon,” +97 Pages. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p> + +<p class='c009'><span class='sc'>The Proceedings of the Oregon Historical Society for 1899–1900. +Including Two Historical Papers, 120 Pages. Price, 25 Cents.</span></p> + +<h3 class='c008'>QUARTERLY OF THE OREGON HISTORICAL SOCIETY.</h3> + +<table class='table2'> + <tr><th class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>No. 2, Vol. I, June, 1900.</span></th></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Joseph R. Wilson</i>—<span class='sc'>The Oregon Question</span></td> + <td class='c019'>111</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Frances F. Victor</i>—<span class='sc'>Our Public Land System and its Relation to Education in the United States</span></td> + <td class='c019'>132</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Mrs. William Markland Molson</i>—<span class='sc'>Glimpses of Life in Early Oregon</span></td> + <td class='c019'>158</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>H. W. Scott</i>—<span class='sc'>Not Marjoram.—The Spanish Word “Oregano” not the Original of Oregon</span></td> + <td class='c019'>165</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Reminiscences of Louis Labonte</span></td> + <td class='c019'>169</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Frances F. Victor</i>—<span class='sc'>Dr. Elliott Coues</span></td> + <td class='c019'>189</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Document.</span>—A Narrative of Events In Early Oregon ascribed to Dr. John McLoughlin</td> + <td class='c019'>193</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Reviews of Books.</span>—<i>Eva Emery Dye’s</i> “McLoughlin and Old Oregon”</td> + <td class='c019'>207</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>H. K. Hines’</i> “Missionary History of the Pacific Northwest”</td> + <td class='c019'>210</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='bbt c004'><span class='sc'>Note.</span>—A Correction</td> + <td class='bbt c019'>212</td> + </tr> + <tr><th class='c007' colspan='2'><span class='sc'>No. 3, Vol. I, September, 1900.</span></th></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>Joseph R. Wilson</i>—<span class='sc'>The Oregon Question II.</span></td> + <td class='c019'>213</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Reminiscences of Hugh Cosgrove</span></td> + <td class='c019'>253</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Reminiscences of Wm. M. Case</span></td> + <td class='c019'>269</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>John Minto</i>—<span class='sc'>The Number and Condition of the Native Race in Oregon When First Seen by White Men</span></td> + <td class='c019'>296</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><i>H. S. Lyman</i>—<span class='sc'>Indian Names</span></td> + <td class='c019'>316</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'><span class='sc'>Documents</span>—Oregon articles reprinted from a file of the N. Y. <cite>Tribune</cite>, 1842.</td> + <td class='c019'>327</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c004'>Letter by William Plumer, Senator from N. H.</td> + <td class='c019'>336</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c006'> + <div>PRICE: THIRTY-FIVE CENTS PER NUMBER, ONE DOLLAR PER YEAR.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 class='c003'>UNIVERSITY OF OREGON.</h2> +</div> + +<p class='c011'><i>THE GRADUATE SCHOOL confers the degrees of +Master of Arts, (and in prospect, of Doctor of Philosophy,) +Civil and Sanitary Engineer (C. E.), Electrical +Engineer (E. E.), Chemical Engineer (Ch.E.), +and Mining Engineer (Min. E.)</i></p> + +<p class='c009'><i>THE COLLEGE OF LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND THE +ARTS confers the degree of Bachelor of Arts on +graduates from the following groups: (1) General +Classical; (2) General Literary; (3) General Scientific; +(4) Civic-Historical. It offers Collegiate Courses +not leading to a degree as follows: (1) Preparatory +to Law or Journalism; (2) Course for Teachers.</i></p> + +<p class='c009'><i>THE COLLEGE OF SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING.</i>—</p> + +<p class='c020'><i>A.—The School of Applied Science confers the degree +of Bachelor of Science on graduates from +the following groups; (1) General Science; (2) +Chemistry; (3) Physics; (4) Biology; (5) Geology +and Mineralogy. It offers a Course Preparatory +to Medicine.</i></p> + +<p class='c020'><i>B.—The School of Engineering: (1) Civil and Sanitary; +(2) Electrical; (3) Chemical.</i></p> + +<div class='lg-container-l c021'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF MINES AND MINING.</i></div> + <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF MEDICINE at Portland.</i></div> + <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF LAW at Portland.</i></div> + <div class='line'><i>THE SCHOOL OF MUSIC.</i></div> + <div class='line'><i>THE UNIVERSITY ACADEMY.</i></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-r c021'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Address</i></div> + <div class='line in20'><span class='sc'><span class='large'>The President,</span></span></div> + <div class='line in24'><span class='sc'>Eugene, Oregon.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='pbb'> + <hr class='pb c002'> +</div> +<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'> + +<div class='chapter ph2'> + +<div class='nf-center-c1'> +<div class='nf-center c022'> + <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + + <ul class='ul_1 c006'> + <li>Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + </li> + </ul> + +</div> + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78187 ***</div> + </body> + <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57i (with regex) on 2026-02-13 01:06:57 GMT --> +</html> diff --git a/78187-h/images/cover.jpg b/78187-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e650d85 --- /dev/null +++ b/78187-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/78187-h/images/i_340a.jpg b/78187-h/images/i_340a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6bed988 --- /dev/null +++ b/78187-h/images/i_340a.jpg diff --git a/78187-h/images/i_342a.jpg b/78187-h/images/i_342a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cf90065 --- /dev/null +++ b/78187-h/images/i_342a.jpg diff --git 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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5274985 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for eBook #78187 +(https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/78187) |
