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diff --git a/78133-0.txt b/78133-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0a63de --- /dev/null +++ b/78133-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7336 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78133 *** + + + + + A + + STEAM VOYAGE + + DOWN + + THE DANUBE. + + WITH SKETCHES OF + HUNGARY, WALLACHIA, SERVIA, AND + TURKEY, &c. + + BY MICHAEL J. QUIN, + AUTHOR OF “A VISIT TO SPAIN.” + + SECOND EDITION. + REVISED AND CORRECTED. + + IN TWO VOLUMES. + VOL. I. + + LONDON: + RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. + + 1835. + + + + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + PEST.] + + + + + C. WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE, STRAND. + + + + +TO MRS. MICHAEL J. QUIN. + +To you I dedicate these volumes, trusting that you may find in them some +compensation for my late absence from a Home, where, as you well know, +all my happiness resides. When our dear children shall be able to read +this work, you will tell them that _their_ interests only could have +detained me from that home, during the five months necessarily occupied +in my journey. + + Always most affectionately yours, + + MICHAEL J. QUIN. + +Haverstock Hill, Hampstead, + 20th July, 1835. + + + + + PREFACE + + TO THE + + SECOND EDITION. + + +Since the first edition of this work was published several gentlemen +have called upon me, to inquire whether the navigation by steam has +been yet completed from Presburg to Constantinople. It may be useful, +therefore, here to state that the steam-boats do not yet regularly +proceed further down the Danube than Galacz. The vessel intended to +carry on the intercourse from that place to the Bosphorus, had been +fitted out, and despatched from Trieste last autumn. But in the mean +time, the object which the Danube company had in view, was frustrated by +some means that have not yet been explained; and the vessel in question +is now employed as a packet between Constantinople and Smyrna. + +My own opinion is, that the Russian government has refused permission +for the steam-boats of the Danube company to pass through any of the +embouchures of that river into the Black Sea. The whole delta of the +river became exclusively Russian, under the treaty of Adrianople; and I +am informed that military pontons have been recently established across +the navigable mouths of the Danube, with a view to prevent vessels of +any description from entering the Black Sea in that quarter, without a +passport from the Russian authorities. + +The traveller, however, who wishes to become acquainted with the most +interesting parts of the Danube, navigable by the steam-boats, will have +no cause to regret this strange proceeding on the part of the Russian +government. The banks of that magnificent river are wholly devoid of +interest below Vidin. Its beauties commence at Belgrade; and from +Moldava to Gladova, those wild and sublime scenes occur, which I have +attempted to describe in the following pages. + +I trust, at the same time, that before many months elapse, the Austrian +and Russian sovereigns will come to an understanding in favour of +the free navigation of the Danube and the Black Sea, as originally +contemplated by the company. + + M. J. Q. + +_September 10, 1835._ + + + + + CONTENTS TO VOL. I + + + PAGE +CHAPTER I. + + Arrival at Pesth--Embarkation on board the steam-boat--Congress + of Hungarian ladies--General appearance of Pesth--Buda--Mills on + the Danube--Fruit-boats--Wool-waggons--Wicker carriages--Captain + Cozier--Scene on board--Tyrolese emigrants--Tyrolese + amusements--Countess N—— —Moldavian adventurer--Servian + Jew--Depression of the Danube 1 + + +CHAPTER II. + + Dinner--Languages of the party--English groom--State of the + neighbourhood of Tolna--System of landowners--English farmers + in requisition--Arrival at Tolna--Battle with dogs--Search for + a bed--Billiards--Cottage delights--Night scene--Hungarian + politics--Group of peasants--Wood-boats--Village of Mohacs--Costume + of the natives--Appearance of the streets--Industry of + women--Hungarian ladies and their maids 22 + + +CHAPTER III. + + Steam-boat aground--Tyrolese melodies--Night scene--“Hanger + on”--Auction at cards--Knave of clubs game--How to float a + steamer--Military valet--Kamenitz--Odescalchi convent--Parting + game--Kissing--Neusatz--Carlovitz--Semlin--Greek church--Plague + at Constantinople--Belgrade--Semendria--Magnificent expanse of + the Danube--Islands of enchantment--Sunset--Spirits of the Danube 43 + + +CHAPTER IV. + + Windings of the Danube--Civility of the Moldavian--Arrival + at Moldava--Arrangements for voyage to Orsova--A Wallachian + beauty--Flock of geese--Ditto of children--Woodmen--Commencement + of mountain chain--Rustic sounds--Peasantry--Removal to + fishing-boat--Our equipment--Accusation of robbery--Haunt of + Wallachian brigands--Romantic gorge--Caverns 67 + + +CHAPTER V. + + Pastoral scene--Echoes--Picture of laziness--Rapids of the + Danube--Miller and his men--Pedestrian excursion--Wallachian + shepherdesses--Dancing boors--Scene at Swinich--Priest of the + parish--The governor--George Dewar--Contest between the priest + and the poet--Supper--Musical treat--The Moldavian--Sketch of + the inn room--Hospitable invitation--Triple-bedded room--Latin + harangue 85 + + +CHAPTER VI. + + Domestic arrangements--Count Szechenyi--Milanosch--Works on + the Danube--Picture of industry--Auberge--Vedran’s cave--Rocky + scenery--Arrival at Orsova--My chamber and its ornaments--Bedroom + utensils--Hungarian civilization--Quarantine adventure--Dinner at + Count Szechenyi’s--Plans for the navigation of the Danube--Origin + of the enterprise 107 + + +CHAPTER VII. + + Hungarian reforms--Security of property--Orders of nobility-- + Advantages of steam navigation--Reformers--Auxiliary improvements-- + Club-house--Newspaper--System of Entails--Censorship--Sybaritism-- + The Count’s pursuits--Hungarian language--Verses on the vintage 130 + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + First appearance of Wallachia--The Iron Door--Trajan’s road--Reform + of the Hungarian representation--Corporations--Finances--Education-- + Justice--Wallachian Gladova--Servian Gladova--Trajan’s bridge-- + Navigable stations on the Danube--Wonders of steam--Speech of Prince + Milosch--Neighbourhood of Gladova--Wallachian hut--Matrimonial + speculation--Tea-drinking--Music--Charms of procrastination-- + Departure from Gladova--Bends in the Danube--Approach to Vidin-- + Magnate’s costume--Visit to Hussein Pacha--The pacha’s deputy--An + interpreter--Explanations--Pleasures of disguise 142 + + +CHAPTER IX. + + Hussein Pacha--Hussein’s son--Group at the interview--Commencement + of conversation--Conversation prolonged--Steam expedition--Cool + reception--Pacha’s harem--Wallachia and Moldavia--Treaty of + Adrianople--Silistria--Boat aground--New delays--Zantiote boat-- + Adventurous changes--Separation--Ionian luxuries--A grave mistake 177 + + +CHAPTER X. + + Zitara Palanka--Turkish hospitality--Interior of a caffiné-- + Mahometan devotee--Orisons--Race of Tartars--Social variety-- + Turkish khan--The nargillé--Supper--Woman--Seclusion of the sex-- + Eating in the dark--Visiters astonished--A general invasion-- + Return to the boat--New acquaintances--Nicopoli--Night scene 196 + + +CHAPTER XI. + + Sistow--A delusion--New friends--Good fortune--Greek civility-- + Wallachian merchants--Supper--Amicable discussion--Gil Blas-- + Wallachian ambition--Chief of the Tartars--Striking a bargain-- + Equestrian preparations--Greek _v._ Greek--Shops of Rutschuk-- + Valley of Repose--Bulgarian peasants--Gipsies--Going astray-- + Cogitations--Resolutions--Bulgarian girls--An alarm 219 + + +CHAPTER XII. + + A boorish group--Night quarters of a caravan--Shumla--An + intrusion--An angry Turk--Balkan roads--Difficulties of the way-- + Forests of Hæmus--Banditti--Terrors--Descent of the Balkans-- + Dinner--Karnabat--Gipsies--Catching a Tartar--A fiery bedroom-- + A decent khan--Supper 244 + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + My companions--Kind attentions--Famine--Annihilation of a Fowl-- + Living upon nothing--Disturbance--Still life--Consternation--A + desolate town--Turks at prayers--Dinner--Alarming rumours--Chorlu-- + The sea of Marmora--Silivria--Street scene--A factotum--News of + the day--Tartar generosity--Negotiations 264 + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + A white cock--Russian agency--Specimen of cookery--Dining in + state--Departure from Silivria--Mahometan causeway--Perilous + roads--Knowing horses--First view of Constantinople--Advantages of + its position--Extent of its capabilities--An abstracted goose-- + Entrance of the capital--Pera--Vitali’s hotel--The plague-- + Character of the malady--Armenian funeral--Associations--Funeral + of a Greek 285 + + +APPENDIX A. + + Treaty of Alliance concluded between Russia and Turkey on the 8th + of July, 1833 303 + + +APPENDIX B. + + Treaty between Russia and Turkey, concluded at St. Petersburg, by + Achmet Pacha, on the 29th of January, 1834 308 + + + + + LIST OF PLATES. + + + PAGE + FRONTISPIECE, Vol. I. PESTH + + BUDA AND PESTH 6 + + KAMENITZ 52 + + PETERWARDEIN 54 + + NEUSATZ 56 + + SEMLIN 58 + + BELGRADE 61 + + THE AUTHOR’S ROUTE FROM PESTH TO RUTSCHUK 220 + + FRONTISPIECE, Vol. II. TOWING BOATS ON THE DANUBE + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + Arrival at Pesth--Embarkation on board the steam-boat--Congress + of Hungarian ladies--General appearance of Pesth--Buda--Mills on + the Danube--Fruit-boats--Wool-waggons--Wicker carriages--Captain + Cozier--Scene on board--Tyrolese emigrants--Tyrolese amusements-- + Countess N---- Moldavian adventurer--Servian Jew--Depression of + the Danube. + + +♦ ARRIVAL AT PESTH ♦ + +While I was preparing at Paris, towards the close of last summer, for +a journey to Constantinople by the ordinary and very fatiguing course +overland through Vienna, Semlin, and Belgrade, I was informed that +steam-boats had been recently established on the Danube, which would +enable me to descend that river to the Black sea, and thence to the +Bosphorus. The hope of accomplishing my object by a route so novel, +so attractive in itself, and so convenient in every respect, was too +tempting to be resisted. I therefore lost no time in repairing to +Vienna; and as the scenery of the Danube possesses but little interest +between Presburg, where the steam navigation begins, and Pesth, the +modern capital of Hungary, I preferred embarking at the latter place. +I accordingly arrived there by the light of a brilliant moon, an hour +or two after midnight, on the 24th of September, 1834; and as a variety +of rumours had met me on the road, some stating that the steam-boat, +or Dampshiffe, as it is called in that country, had been destroyed by +its own engines, others that it had bulged on the rocks, or remained +fixed fast in the sandy bed of the river from the want of water, it was +with no small pleasure that I discovered the vessel of which I came in +pursuit anchored quietly within the shade of the bridge of boats, that +still forms the communication between Pesth and Buda. + +♦ EMBARKATION ♦ + +The inns having been all shut up for the night, I was obliged to proceed +without ceremony on board through a crowd of carriages, packages, and +cases of all descriptions, which were huddled together on the bank, +with a view to transportation by the steamer to different towns on +the Danube. The guardians of the vessel were all wrapped in sleep so +imperturbable, that I could find nobody to marshal me the way to a +berth in the cabin. Having been without sleep myself for thirty-four +hours, I was not at all indisposed to follow the example of these worthy +sentinels, the more especially when, on penetrating to the cabin, +I found it almost entirely preoccupied by passengers stretched on +benches, in full enjoyment of the same “sweet oblivion,” amidst piles of +boxes, trunks, cloaks, shawls, baskets, hat-cases, stools, and tables, +congregated in “most admired confusion.” By the glimmering light of a +lamp which was suspended from the roof, I at length discerned a vacant +corner, and having doubled up a seat-cushion, by way of pillow, and +arranged another as no mean apology for a bed, I threw myself upon it, +wrapped in my cloak, resolved to subside at once into profound repose. + + +♦ HUNGARIAN LADIES ♦ + +But scarcely had I forgotten that I was slumbering on the Danube, +when there arose, all of a sudden, such a storm of tongues, and +such an uproar of laughter around me, that I felt for a moment +as if, in punishment for my sins, I had been imprisoned in some +enchanted chamber, where sleep was especially prohibited. At +first the voices sounded as though they were distant from the +cabin; but before I could exactly settle with myself the question, +whether I was waking or dreaming, in they rushed, chattering away +as if they had all the world to themselves. Morning was still far +below the horizon, and I, of course, concluded that our invaders +would soon be tired of their rather premature entertainment. But +vain were all calculations of that description; anecdote followed +anecdote; interrogatory--answer--reply--rejoinder--sur-reply and +sur-rejoinder--slight titter--partial laughter--general shouts--coursed +each other with indefatigable speed round the circle of this noisy +congress, until the broad daylight streamed through the windows, and +dissipated every hope of peace. I was shocked at my ungallant thoughts, +when I surveyed my fair enemies, and found that there were amongst them +two or three really pretty Hungarian ladies. I confess, God forgive +me!--that I had more than once wished them all at the antipodes. + +♦ PESTH--BUDA ♦ + +Pesth looks extremely well from the Danube. It is for the most part +built in a modern style of architecture; several of the public edifices, +and even of the private mansions are splendid. The national casino, or +club-house, forms a distinguished feature of the city, which has been +wonderfully improved during the last ten or fifteen years. Presburg +is the nominal capital of Hungary; but it has, in the estimation of a +Hungarian, one fault which nothing can redeem,--it is near Vienna. It +has been, therefore, long superseded by Pesth, as to all matters which +concern the sciences and arts, as well as the assemblages and amusements +of the higher classes. Here they spend their fashionable season, give +their balls, carry on their flirtations, and plan both their private +and public intrigues. Buda, on the opposite bank of the river, is not +without its share in these good things. Gaiety also sometimes holds her +court in that quarter. The bridge of boats between the two towns has +indeed occasionally operated as an obstacle to social enjoyment. But +that obstacle is soon to be removed. A stone bridge has been proposed, +the expenses to be defrayed by a toll, from which no person shall be +exempt. Never was such an innovation as this heard of in Hungary since +the Danube began its course! A Hungarian nobleman is privileged by his +rank from the payment of taxes of any kind. But the ladies would not +be debarred from the winter enjoyments of Buda; they worried their +fathers, husbands, brothers, until at length the vote was carried in the +diet,--and so a stone bridge they will have. Slight as this incident +may seem to an Englishman, it will probably lead the way to many useful +reforms in that country, on account of the principle of equal taxation +which it involves. + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + BUDA & PEST. + _London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._] + +♦ MILLS ON THE DANUBE ♦ + +Our cargo of carriages, dry goods and passengers having been at length +all duly arranged, our paddles began to circulate at seven o’clock, +instead of four, which was the hour appointed, and we proceeded on +our voyage. The morning was splendid. As we moved along we passed by +several of those curious flour-mills with which the Danube is crowded. +These floating machines are very simple in their construction. A wooden +house is erected in a large clumsy boat, moored near the spot where the +river is most rapid. At the distance of a few paces from this edifice +another smaller boat is made fast parallel to the first, the heads +of both being directed down the stream. In the interval between, the +water-wheel is suspended, and impelled by the natural velocity of the +current. These mills, of which ten or twenty are sometimes found in +immediate succession, are rather picturesque in their appearance, and +give animation to the scenery around them. But, however convenient they +may be to the population on either bank of the Danube, where there +are no heights for windmills, it is certain that they afford serious +impediments to navigation. They uniformly occupy the best parts of the +river, and tend to the formation or increase of sandbanks in their +neighbourhood, which, when the water is low, become, as we subsequently +experienced, nuisances of a formidable description. + +♦ FRUIT-BOATS ♦ + +I believe there is no river in Europe which winds so much as the Danube. +It may, with more than the usual truth of poetry, be emphatically +designated as a “wandering stream.” It consequently abounds with +what are called “reaches,” portions of the bank which at a distance +look like promontories, and add not a little to the difficulties of +the navigators, who have to work their way against the course of the +current. It is amusing to observe a boat of the country labouring +round one of these obstacles. It is generally a huge unwieldly bark, +constructed of oak, covered with a high roof, and laden to the very top +with what here universally passes under the name of fruit--that is +wine, timber, wool, wheat, hay, and produce of every degree. The vessel +is dragged up the river by a force which is not at first very apparent. +You behold the vessel tied to the end of a rope, which is pulled by +something or somebody somewhere, and if your eye can discern the “reach” +at the distance perhaps of a mile, you may discover there a dozen +brawny Hungarian peasants half-naked, trudging along in rope harness, +exerting all their strength to draw the enormous mass behind them. The +more opulent adventurers, however, frequently employ horses for this +purpose, and then the scene is infinitely more bustling. Twenty and +sometimes thirty half-wild horses are required to supply a sufficient +moving power, where the force of the current offers more than ordinary +resistance. Almost every pair of horses belongs to a different peasant, +and he will allow nobody to lash them but himself. He is most probably +a nobleman, and it is a part of his privilege to drive his own horses +after his own fashion. When, therefore, the whole of the team arrives +at a difficult reach, it becomes the signal for a general mutiny; the +leaders are perhaps prancing in the air, while the horses immediately +behind are endeavouring with all their might to bolt off into the +adjacent country. Here a horse and his companion stand quite still, as +if they were in doubt whether they ought not, before going further, to +take a pleasant draught of the element at their feet. Half a dozen of +the animals in the rear have dragged each other into the river, through +which they are wading up to the girth, while the sound of a dozen whips, +the altercations of the drivers, the angry exclamations of the boatmen +shouting on the roofs of their vessels, the neighing of the alarmed +horses, and the barking of dogs, combine to form a most ludicrous +concert, which may be heard far down the river. Although in a broiling +sun these drivers keep on their large cloaks, which are as essential +to the dignity of a Hungarian peasant-noble, as the wide-brimmed hat +slouching over his swarthy countenance. + +♦ WOOL-WAGGONS ♦ +♦ WICKER CARRIAGES ♦ + +The high road, that is to say the track over the verdant turf, or the +sandy track most frequently trodden, now and then ran along the side +of the Danube, and exhibited occasionally specimens of the interior +commerce of the country. Now a rude car laden with woolpacks, on the +top of which was perched a lazy fellow smoking, drawn by eight or ten +miserable horses, moved at a snail’s pace, the wooden axle of the +wheels yielding the while a species of music, compared with which the +hoarsest sounds of a hurdygurdy would be enchanting. Now a better +sort of vehicle, a kind of waggon, filled perhaps with water-melons, +Indian corn, or vegetables, for some neighbouring market, appeared on +the scene, drawn by a much better class of horses, whose trappings +were quite brilliant. The drivers of these waggons were generally the +cultivators of the land, which furnished the burden, and they displayed +their prosperity in a smart underdress, of which a waistcoat with +gold or silver plated buttons, and a profusion of silk lace formed +the principal ornament. These were succeeded perhaps by a troop of +travellers galloping on spirited and beautiful animals, or by a family +whisked along in a kind of wicker carriage, which may be found in all +parts of Hungary. I travelled a considerable portion of the way from +Vienna in one of these simple post-chaises, and I found it not at all +disagreeable. It is on springs, and peculiarly light, and as from the +irregularities of the road I was often knocked from one side of the +vehicle to the other without even the civility of a notice, I deemed +it a convenience to come in contact rather with a yielding material +such as wicker, than with a solid board from Long Acre. And then if the +balance were in danger of being more than usually disturbed, if one of +the wheels aspired to figure in the sky, while the other was buried in a +sandy rut, I had no great difficulty in jumping out over the sides of my +carriage. + +♦ CAPTAIN COZIER ♦ + +The captain of our steamer was an Englishman, of the name of Cozier, +who, being little conversant with any branch of nautical science, +was about equally skilled in the topography of the Danube. Though he +had gone up and down several times, he knew no more of the caprices +of the sandbanks than he did of the bed of the yellow sea. He had a +bitter dislike to his office. Why he was permitted to undertake it, I +never could understand. To me, I must say, he was communicative and +extremely civil; but my fellow-voyagers he treated with a degree of +superciliousness which was very amusing. It seemed to be his settled +opinion, that nobody except an Englishman was worthy of breathing the +same air with himself. To be sure we had a motley crowd on board, such +perhaps as never met together on the deck of a steam-boat before. +Behold us all as in a mirror. + +♦ SCENE ON BOARD ♦ + +I am sitting (time, half-past eleven, morning) on a stool near the man +at the wheel. A little before me, on my right-hand, are two Tyrolese +sleeping. One of these has on his head a green hat, with a wide band +of green ribbon around it, in which are stuck some white and black +feathers, selected from a cock’s tail, intermixed with the bristles +of a wild boar. The ribbon, where it joins, is edged with gold lace. +Like most of his countrymen, this man rejoices in a thick gray frieze +jacket, a striped cotton waistcoat, black leather breeches, here and +there rather whitened by the hoar of antiquity, ribbed worsted gray +stockings, and short stout laced boots. He wears his hair long behind, +somewhat _négligée_. Another Tyrolese is sleeping near him, whose hat +was some ages ago green, but now partakes of the colour of night. His +hatband seems also to have enjoyed two shades of existence--it was +formerly green, now it is a dingy yellow. It is tied in front with a bow +of pink ribbon, which, in its early days, must have looked seducing, +especially as it appears to have been accompanied by an artificial +rose and other flowers, the ruins of which are still discernible. One +of these picturesque objects is stretched on a mat; the other has his +head resting on a coil of rope, his feet on a similar cushion: the +intervening departments of his frame repose on the naked deck. + +♦ TYROLESE EMIGRANTS ♦ + +While I was admiring the felicity in which these sleepers appeared to be +immersed, a woman with a child, the wife I presume of one of them, came +and awoke him. He rose, and she took his place. Throwing a handkerchief +over her otherwise bare head, she settles herself to sleep. The sun is +blazing on her ladyship. The child, a round chubby little urchin, has no +fancy at present for following her example. He would very much prefer a +game at romps. Trying what he can do in that way, he, slily laughing, +pulls the handkerchief off her face. Half angry, she gives him a tap, +but he returns to the charge, and succeeds for a while in attracting her +attention by his artless tricks, until at length he falls asleep on her +bosom. She then gladly resumes her interrupted slumber. She is arrayed +in a short blue cloth spencer, edged with black velvet, beneath which +she wears a green thick velveteen pelisse sort of dress. Thick worsted +stockings (I _believe_!) and laced rough boots complete her apparel. +Of the former, however, I am not very confident, as I only saw the most +tiny bit of one of them just beneath the edge of her petticoat. + +♦ TYROLESE AMUSEMENTS ♦ + +At the feet of this happy matron a Tyrolese boy is fast asleep. One +would think that noon had been changed into midnight. Near him a woman +of the same nation is sitting upon a roll of cordage, doing nothing. +A little Tyrolese lad, with a cockade of white cock’s feathers, and a +bunch of artificial flowers in his hat, is helping her! That must be +his father who is sitting near him, smoking, and occasionally talking +with one of his countrymen standing against the springs of one of the +carriages, with which, by the way, our deck is most inconveniently +crowded. Near the mast a group of men, all Tyrolese, are engaged in +the several offices of talking, listening, smoking, musing, whistling, +singing, and gazing at the dense cloud that rushes into the firmament +from our black chimney. They are all rather better dressed than my +immediate neighbours; one of them, a fine-looking fellow, whom I take +to be the captain of the gang, has his hat cocked in a dandyish style, +considerably out of the circular shape. His plume of feathers, too, is +larger and of a finer quality than those of the others. This party +would make a capital study for a band of brigands, could they but assume +a fiercer expression of countenance. As it is, they look too amiable for +a Salvator Rosa. At the top of the boat several knots of women, still +Tyrolese, are sitting in various directions, executing for each other, +alternately, without the slightest consciousness of the external effect +of the operation, the agreeable task of disburdening their hair of its +multitudinous inhabitants. No wonder that Captain Cozier was enraged! + +♦ COUNTESS N---- ♦ + +Descending into the cabin I found a party of Hungarian nobles--men +of genteel appearance and manners--seated at a round table, playing +cards. They had been thus engaged all the morning. The stakes were not +inconsiderable, and seemed to be taken up occasionally by the winners +with infinite delight. Near them, sanctioning their amusement by her +bland looks and smiles, is an elderly lady knitting on a bench, and +occasionally conversing with an exceedingly elegant figure, somewhat +_petite_, whom, upon further acquaintance, I found to be the Countess +N----, on her way from Pesth to Peterwardein. She had married, at the +age of eighteen, a hotheaded nobleman of her own country, who became +attached to her suddenly on account of her beauty. He took her to +Pesth, entered into all the amusements of the place, gambling included, +which is carried on in that capital to a formidable extent. The result +was, that after a short experiment of two years, they were obliged to +give up their establishment, and the young countess was now returning to +her mother, attended by a French _femme de chambre_, the only remaining +fragment of her transient splendour, except her harp, which she saved +also from the ruins. She was reading a book of common Hungarian ballads, +which seemed to afford her amusement. In a corner, two little girls +were tittering away most merrily--I could not make out at what. Within +the ladies’ cabin I heard some of the laughing voices, which recalled +the sense of my “murdered sleep” of the morning. Upon the whole, I was +pleased with the appearance of my companions, and flattered myself with +the hope of a pleasant voyage, in which I was not disappointed. + +♦ MOLDAVIAN ADVENTURER ♦ + +In the course of the day a variety of new characters emerged from the +second cabin, and other hiding places, the greater part of whom soon +ceased to attract my notice, as they were of that class that seems born +for the mere purpose of transforming animal and vegetable substances +into human flesh and blood for the ordinary number of years. Among these +specimens of creation, however, there was one little man, whom I shall +not speedily forget. He was from Moldavia. He had been in the Russian +service during the late war with Turkey, but in what capacity I could +never satisfactorily discover. I suspect he was a spy. He spoke German, +French, and Italian fluently. He wore a blue frock-coat, which probably +had served him during the said war, as it could boast of only a part of +one button, and two very unequal skirts, remaining in any thing like +decent condition. The rest of the garment was covered with grease. +A pair of old black stuff trousers patched at the knees in a most +unworkmanlike manner, rent and not patched in other parts indescribable, +and vilely tattered at the extremities, together with a ghost of a +black waistcoat, a cast-off military cap, and wretched boots, offered +an apology for a better suit, which he said he had at home. His shirt +was also in the list of absentees! He had lost the half of one of his +thumbs, the other was wrapped in a bandage. He had not shaved for three +weeks--he certainly could not have washed either his hands or his face +for three months, and a comb had probably not passed through his hair +for three years. To crown his personal peculiarities, he had a very red +nose, on the top of which was perched a pair of spectacles. + +Nevertheless, with all these strong objections against him--so +strong, that I wonder my friend Captain Cozier had not thrown him +overboard--there was something about this man which seemed to have +actually fascinated a rather genteel youth, who was constantly at his +side, and to have already secured him the devotion of a miscellaneous +group of Austrian soldiers and their wives, pedlers, and artisans, who +occupied mats and sheepskins on deck. With the sailors he was quite a +favourite. He whistled well, he sung well, and passed off every thing in +a “devil-may-care” kind of way, which gained him admirers. A charlatan +at a French fair--a romance reader at the mole of Naples--could not +possess more power over his audience, than was exercised over these +simpletons by this Moldavian adventurer. He had a common-place-book in +his bosom--for his pockets had all vanished--from which he occasionally +read to his followers scraps of poetry of his own composition, or +selected from the works of celebrated German writers. These readings +he interspersed with comments often so droll, that he set the whole +deck in a roar. Then he would relate some of his accidents by flood and +field, or describe his travels, in the course of which he mentioned the +most extraordinary scenes in the world, which had occurred to him at +Constantinople, Bucharest, Prague, Vienna, Petersburg, Paris, Berlin, +Madrid, Gibraltar, Venice, every where but London, where he had the +modesty to confess he had never yet been. His eye, when lighted up by +the excitement of the moment, was singularly brilliant, the flush of +fine intelligence was on his swarthy weather-beaten cheek, his voice was +melody itself, and his diction eloquence. + +♦ SERVIAN JEW ♦ + +Retired from the crowd appeared now and then an extremely well-looking +Jew and his daughter, a pale, slight, interesting girl, who seemed to +have much to converse about on their own affairs. They were dressed in +the Turkish costume. As I passed them the father saluted me in Spanish, +at which I was not a little surprised. Upon further acquaintance, I +learned that he was descended from one of the Jewish families, which +having been expelled in the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella from Spain, +were permitted to take up their abode in Servia, where their posterity +still continue to reside. The Spanish language is spoken by all these +Jews, in preference even to the tongue of their fatherland, so great +is their traditional affection for the once Moorish kingdoms of the +peninsula. This man was returning to Vidin from Vienna, where he had +been upon a mercantile speculation, which he did not explain. We became +great friends. The daughter had a mandolin, upon which she sometimes +favoured me with Moorish and Servian airs. + +♦ DEPRESSION OF THE DANUBE ♦ + +Our boat rubbed upon the natural bed of the river two or three times, +very much to the captain’s astonishment and perplexity. Men were +consequently stationed at the prow to sound the bottom, when we found, +that even where it was deepest, we had not more than six or seven feet +of water. I fully expected that we should run aground, an embarrassment +which was about the last I should have thought of in the Danube. I had +rather imagined that our difficulties would have chiefly consisted +in evading the dangerous rapidity of the flood, for I could not have +fancied the Danube any thing less than a magnificent inundation, +hurrying for ever towards the Euxine. Very much to my surprise, +however, I found it considerably shrunk beneath its banks, and often +so lethargic in its course, that it seemed more like a lake than the +principal river of Europe. But from my cogitations on this subject, I +was most agreeably summoned at one o’clock to dinner. + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + Dinner--Languages of the party--English groom--State of the + neighbourhood of Tolna--System of landowners--English farmers + in requisition--Arrival at Tolna--Battle with dogs--Search for + a bed--Billiards--Cottage delights--Night scene--Hungarian + politics--Wood-boats--Village of Mohacs--Costume of the + natives--Appearance of the streets--Industry of women--Hungarian + ladies and their maids. + + +We sat down a large and merry party to the table. I must honestly +confess that I enjoy a good dinner at all times, and in all places, +but I fancy that I entertain a particular relish for the performance +of my duties in that way on board a steam-boat. The air, the exercise, +the novelty of the scene, the emulation kindled amongst a number of +candidates for a participation in the spoil, and, perhaps, above all, +the savoury odours of soups and stews, which mingle beforehand with the +atmosphere of the deck, conspire to whet the appetite to a degree of +keenness altogether unknown on _terra firma_. + +♦ DINNER ♦ + +We commenced operations with rice soup, which was followed of course by +_bouilli_; next came sundry dishes of roast fowl, and of fowl cooked as +giblets, and well cooked too. By way of relaxation, we were then invited +to admit a layer of bread pudding upon the said fowls, with a view to +prevent them from finding fault with what was to come after--a prudent +measure; the dinner was closed by capon, served up with plums in their +own syrup for sauce. Upon the whole, notwithstanding the monotony of the +entertainment, it went off, as the theatrical critics say, with _éclat_. +We were not, however, fortunate in our wine: it was pale and sour, a +degree or two beneath small beer. Hungary produces some of the most +exquisite wines in Europe, but I must say that I never had the felicity +to meet with them. Those which are found in ordinary use are truly +detestable. + +As soon as the edge of appetite was a little blunted, we became not +only a merry but a noisy party. The Hungarian language prevailed by a +considerable majority, but I happened to sit between a merchant from +Trieste, who spoke a little English, and a medical gentleman from the +Tyrol, who spoke French tolerably. The latter informed me that he had +charge of the Tyrolese families on board, numbering in all nearly a +hundred individuals, who were proceeding on their way to Transylvania, +where they intended to settle, and work mines belonging to the Austrian +government. + +♦ LANGUAGES OF THE PARTY ♦ + +My mercantile neighbour was bound to Peterwardein, whence he was to +journey into the interior, for the purpose of purchasing corn, to be +shipped for Trieste. I was the only Englishman in a party of about forty +persons, and I soon found that I was an object of general attention. All +wondered whither I was going--what were my pursuits--what had brought +me so far from home; and when it became pretty well whispered about +that I was on my way to Constantinople, where the plague was raging +at that moment, according to a thousand reports, in a most formidable +manner, I became not only an object of attention but of sympathy. As +I was altogether unacquainted with the Hungarian language, and my +Hungarian friends knew no other except Latin, I was obliged to turn +out from the recesses of my memory, all that still remained there of +Lilly and Erasmus, in order to answer the questions that were put to me. +We were consequently all speedily arranged upon a footing of agreeable +intercourse, the ladies and myself only excepted, for very much to my +chagrin, they spoke no dialect save their own Hungarian. Even the little +elegant countess was ignorant of French and Italian; but I afterwards +found that the education of the fair sex in Hungary, had been hitherto, +at least, wholly neglected. + +I was much pleased with my new companions. They exhibited towards each +other, and towards myself, so much good nature, they were so frank in +their discourse, so cheerful, so full of anecdote, so easily provoked to +laughter, in which they indulged with all the heartiness of children, +that I felt the greatest interest in poring over this new page of the +volume of society. Even when I did not understand the language in +which their conversation was carried on, I could collect its general +meaning from the tone, the look, the animated gestures by which it was +accompanied. After coffee our “house” adjourned. + +♦ ENGLISH GROOM ♦ + +The engineer of the boat, a skilful, active, goodhumoured young man, +from Birmingham, named Pearce, made my acquaintance in the course of the +evening, and pointed out to me, among the crowd before the mast, another +Englishman, near whom was sitting a very pretty German young woman, whom +he had just brought from Vienna as his wife. I went forward and spoke to +this man, whom I found remarkably intelligent for his station. He was +on his way home, his home for the present being the village of Tolna, +where we were likely to arrive about sunset. He had lived for some time +with the Count Tedische, a Hungarian nobleman of extensive possessions +in that part of the country, who, like most of his “order,” made a point +of having an English groom to take care of his stud. From this post, +however, the newly-married exile was about to be elevated to the rank +of the count’s bailiff, or steward. The account which he gave me of the +state of the district in which he lived, was not much calculated to +encourage emigration thither from England. + +♦ STATE OF TOLNA ♦ + +“In former times,” said he, and I give very nearly his own words, “it +was the custom for the emperor to give a title of nobility to every +person who in battle killed his man. These titles unfortunately became +hereditary; the consequence of which is, that almost every second man +you meet in Hungary either is really noble or affects to be so. The +great mass of this kind of aristocracy are wretchedly poor. They are too +proud to work, and having no property they live by plunder. They go, +sir--you coming fresh from England will hardly believe it--these fellows +go in the noonday to a field of Indian corn, the best they can find in +the neighbourhood, with horses and waggons, which they have begged or +seized for their purpose; they cut down as much of the corn as they +please, and then carry it away openly, as if it had been the regular +produce of their own industry; the poor farmer looking on all the time, +perhaps, from a distance, afraid even to be seen, for it would be as +much as his life is worth to offer the slightest resistance to their +proceedings! For this robbery there is no redress. This is not all. +These marauders choose to fall out with a man--they do so easily enough +for they are dreadfully quarrelsome--they attack him, and kill him. +For such a crime there is no punishment; whereas, if one of themselves +happen to be killed in the fray, they obtain redress immediately. They +give themselves the name of Aidelmen, which seems to be a passport of +impunity for every species of wickedness.” + +♦ SYSTEM OF LANDOWNERS ♦ + +“These Aidelmen are in some degree imitated by a still more desperate +set of vagabonds, who prowl in bands all over the country. Six or seven +of these ruffians come into your house of a night, and live upon you +as long as it may suit their convenience. If you do not receive them +hospitably as guests, give them abundance to eat, drink with them, talk +with them, and make them welcome in every way, they will most probably, +after consuming all your store of provisions, beat you to a mummy before +they go. They then elude pursuit by hiding in the woods.” + +♦ ENGLISH FARMERS ♦ + +“I must admit, at the same time, that the Hungarians who do not belong +to either of these two classes of plunderers, are in general a very +good sort of people, as the world goes. To be sure, they will cheat +in bargaining if they can; but in other respects they are friendly, +goodnatured, and trustworthy. They are for the most part engaged +in agriculture. The system of the landowner is this: He sends round +the neighbourhood, by beat of drum, to proclaim that he has a certain +portion of land to let. The peasants who are willing to take this land +in shares, enter into an agreement to that effect; they cultivate their +tenements, and deposit the produce in the landlord’s granary: each +tenant is entitled to half the produce of his labour. Upon the same plan +all agricultural work is done. Those who thresh or tread out the corn, +for instance, receive a fifth in kind. The clergy have for the most part +portions of land settled on themselves, but tithes are still payable in +some places to the landlord.” + +♦ ARRIVAL AT TOLNA ♦ + +“This simple custom works generally very well--indeed I do not know how +it could be altered, seeing that there is so little money current in any +part of Hungary. At the same time, I believe the landowners in general, +and the count in particular, would be extremely glad to get over some +English farmers here, if such a thing was possible, which I think it +is not, for few of my countrymen would long endure the Aidelmen. As +for myself, I have at present very little land, though I hope to have +more. I am now getting used to the thing, and begin to bear it with some +degree of indifference; but I assure you, sir, if I had a livelihood in +old England, I should be very glad to be back there again. To be sure, I +am looked up to at Tolna by my neighbours, and respected by the count’s +friends, on account of the great success which his horses generally meet +with at our races--for we have, I assure you, very fair meetings of that +kind, which have tended very much to improve the breed throughout the +country.” + +My intelligent informant’s discourse was here broken off, as we had +just arrived (half-past six o’clock) at Tolna, where we cast anchor +for the night. The idea of stopping here until the morning was to me +incomprehensible, as the moon, though on the wane, would soon in this +climate turn the night almost into day. But the sandbanks!--at that +awful sound the captain shook his head, and so we had no alternative. +No chart of the river had yet been engraved; but it was understood that +one was in progress, of which future passengers might profit perhaps. +Our fate was sealed against the slightest chance of any thing like a +nocturnal expedition. + +♦ BATTLE WITH DOGS ♦ + +“Well, at all events,” thought I, “I shall go into the village, and +find a bed, if such a thing there be;” for I would have gladly avoided, +if I could, the necessity of “roughing it” on a bench in the cabin. +Accordingly, after all the passengers who were bound for Tolna had +landed, together with nearly the whole of our Tyrolese, men, women, and +children, I stepped on shore, having been recommended by the “bailiff” +to put up at the “Black Eagle.” As he was necessarily engaged himself +in debarking some furniture for his new house, he called a sprightly +lad of his acquaintance from amidst a group on the bank, and directed +him to marshal me the way to the inn. This lad not only came himself, +but brought with him a whole “tail” of his companions, some of whom ran +before, some beside, others behind me, along the sandy pathway leading +to the village, which was nearly a mile distant. It was rather fortunate +that I had this _posse comitatus_ in my service, as, upon approaching +the “Black Eagle,” we were met by such a numerous troop of fierce dogs, +which seemed to have assembled from all parts of Tolna, as if to dispute +our entrance, that we were obliged to come to a regular engagement. +Victory having declared on our side, we proceeded onward until we +arrived at the inn gate, where my escort disappeared in an instant, +scampering off in all directions, as the dogs were rapidly rallying once +more for action, barking as if they meant to assail even the “Black +Eagle” itself. I took good care to close the gate after me, and directed +my steps at once to the kitchen, where a prodigal fire was blazing, and +the landlady, as well as her whole household, were running about in an +indescribable hurry. + +♦ SEARCH FOR A BED ♦ + +Upon presenting myself to the presidentess of the “Black Eagle,” I +signified to her, as well as I could, that I wanted a bed; but she was +so entirely preoccupied in cutting up a quarter of a calf for a variety +of parties who were clamouring for supper, she had so many orders to +give her maids, and had so many pots and pans stewing on the hearth, +that, after repeated exertions, I gave up the toil of soliciting her +attention. I stepped forth, therefore, upon an expedition of discovery +for myself, resolved, if I could find a chamber disengaged, to establish +my proper person therein, without further ceremony. My first attempt was +rather unfortunate; for, on opening a door, I happened to light upon a +woman just stepping into bed, her husband being about halfway towards +the same enviable destination. My second effort was not more successful; +for the room I opened was apparently a receptacle for stores of every +description--grapes, flour, oats, onions, casks of wine, hay, and broken +chairs. Courageously persevering in my tour of the house, I next found +myself in the presence of a nurse and three or four children, all of +whom were strenuously engaged in the duty of squalling as loud as they +could. Finding, upon a further examination, that I had no chance of +attaining my object, I resolved to wait awhile until the business of +supper was over, when I thought madame might be able to think of me for +a moment; but, on entering the public room, I had the gratification to +observe that it was full of the Tyrolese families, who, having procured +some milk, were distributing it with paternal and maternal assiduity +among their infant generations. Some of the men were drinking wine, some +were eating supper, others were trying to sleep on a table, or on the +floor, amidst the cries of children, the scolding of mothers, songs, +shouting, dancing, and other peaceable amusements. + +♦ BILLIARDS ♦ +♦ COTTAGE DELIGHTS ♦ + +Not yet despairing of fortune, I proceeded to a neighbouring apartment, +which turned out to be a billiard-room crowded with Austrian officers, +who were playing at billiards, or standing round the table enveloped +in an atmosphere of vapour arising from Hungarian tobacco--the most +potent, and to a non-smoker the most offensive, I believe, that has yet +been manufactured. Not being in a mood for suffocation, I speedily +effected my escape, and had the consolation to behold myself once more +in the yard of the Black Eagle, in one corner of which a butcher was +engaged in skinning a newly killed sheep by the light of a lamp which a +swarthy peasant, in an immense hat and a blanket cloak, was holding up +for him. Having at length very reluctantly resolved that my expedition +was an entire failure, hearing no more of the dogs, and presuming that +they were by this time all asleep, I set out upon my return to the +steam-boat. As I passed along through the village, I could not help +looking in at a window where a light was glimmering: the room within +was decently furnished, and a pretty young mother was playing with a +baby in its nightclothes, before putting it to bed. The smiles of the +little angel, and the exuberant joy of the parent, afforded a spectacle +of perfect happiness, which made me forget my late disappointment, and I +resumed my way in good humour with all the world. + +♦ NIGHT SCENE ♦ + +The stars were shining in the blue ocean of the sky like so many islands +of fire. The moon had just risen above the margin of the horizon +between two of those beauteous worlds, and, though divested of half +her light, flung a long pathway of silver on the surface of the Danube. +The Lyre was peculiarly brilliant, a constellation which I had many an +hour admired and endeavoured to explore from my own garden at home, +accompanied by her who shares in all my thoughts and feelings. Though +wandering alone in a foreign land, I thus found familiar friends every +where in nature around me. The silence of the scene, disturbed only now +and then by the bark of a village cur; the low soothing murmur of the +broad river, the recollections which its celebrated name kindled in my +memory, detained me loitering on the shore until a chorus, sung by a +group of Tyrolese, who were returning to our vessel, reminded me that +it was time to follow their example. + +♦ HUNGARIAN POLITICS ♦ + +Finding my companions at supper I was very glad to join them. They +were in the midst of Hungarian politics, two of them being deputies on +their way home from the diet. I have seldom met a more engaging person +than the Count P----, who appeared to have taken an active part in the +business of the legislature. He was inexhaustible in anecdotes about +his fellow-deputies, and the mode in which the national affairs were +carried on. Eloquent, cheerful, offhand, and thoroughly conversant with +human nature, he often placed the most serious things in a ridiculous +point of view, which kept the table in roars of laughter. His features +beamed with benevolence, and I was not surprised afterwards to learn, +that in his own county of Presburg, where he has ample possessions, he +is universally beloved. He had frequently the goodness to explain to +me in Latin the political parts of his conversation. He said that the +diet was the mere image of what it ought to be according to the ancient +constitution of the country. Many of the deputies were determined on +eventually effecting a reform, but from motives of personal respect for +the then reigning emperor, they would take no steps during his lifetime. +Under a new sovereign, however, they would certainly insist upon the +restoration of the Hungarian constitution. I had more than once occasion +to remark, that politics were by no means forbidden topics in this +country: they are in fact as freely spoken of as in France or England. +No notice is ever taken by the authorities of this liberty of speech; +I have heard even the authorities themselves discuss public questions +without the slightest reserve. The freedom thus generally enjoyed must +be founded not only on custom, which cannot be changed, but upon a sense +of inherent strength with which it might be dangerous to tamper. + +♦ WOOD-BOATS ♦ + +We set off the next morning from Tolna at half-past four o’clock, and +again passed by a number of those picturesque-looking mills already +mentioned. The bank on our right ran along the edge of a vast forest. +I should have liked to sketch some peasants, who were waiting by the +river-side for a boat to convey to one of the mills several sacks of +wheat, which they had brought to be ground. The morning being rather +cold they were wrapped up in their great cloaks, their large hats +pressed low over their brows. They were accompanied by two or three +women, and near them were several wicker cars, which appear to be +generally used in Hungary. A wood-boat, as it is called, was making its +way down the river. It consists, in fact, of four boats which are lashed +together for the purpose of carrying the long timber, that is found in +great abundance and of pretty good quality in the neighbouring forest. +Its cabin is a very frugal affair, being composed only of half-a-dozen +boards raised near the prow in a slanting direction from side to side. +Beneath this shade the operations of cooking and sleeping went on. + +♦ MOHACS ♦ + +We passed in the course of the day by several long straggling villages, +near which I observed some apparently fine vineyards. Certainly the +grapes with which our table was served were among the most delicious +I had ever tasted, and I cannot but think that the inferiority of the +Hungarian wine, in general is to be attributed to the mode in which +it is manufactured. If the process were improved, and more attention +bestowed upon the quality than upon the quantity produced, I have no +doubt that the wines of Hungary would rival even those of Spain, which I +take to be the best in Europe. + +At noon we stopped at Mohacs to take in wood and coals. This latter +valuable article is found at a short distance in the interior of the +country: the coals are small and stony, but they form a strong fire when +mingled with wood. The operation of getting them on board being a very +tedious one, we all went on shore to take a stroll through the town. A +large and highly respectable-looking family were waiting in a handsome +phaeton on the bank for the Count P----, who met them in the most +affectionate manner. They were attended by a troop of “followers,” as +an Irishman would say, who kissed the count’s hand, and seemed delighted +to have him once more among them. A decent elderly woman, who must have +been his nurse, wept for joy. She, and one or two fine youths who seemed +to be entitled to higher privileges, kissed not his hand but his arm! +I looked on at this meeting with great interest, and when the carriage +drove away with the count, I felt, under the impression that he was not +to return, as if I had lost a friend whom I had long known. + +♦ NATIVE COSTUME ♦ + +The bank was soon crowded with groups of peasantry, men and women, +extremely well-looking, who had assembled chiefly to gaze on the +wonders of the steam-boat. The former were loosely clothed in shirts, +waistcoats, and loose trousers, all made of coarse canvass. The trousers +were so wide that at a distance they looked like petticoats. Their hats +were of the usual Hungarian dimensions, and they generally wore sandals +without stockings. The head-dress of the women consisted for the most +part simply of a blue handkerchief, which was tied under the chin. They +wore neither stockings nor sandals. Their gowns were of ordinary calico, +blue, red, green, plainly printed, I presume of German manufacture. +Some twenty of these women, the younger of whom were decorated with a +profusion of different coloured necklaces of glass or coral beads, were +seated in a semicircle selling fruit. Their baskets were heaped with +walnuts, magnificent grapes, and apples. A wicker car was also speedily +in attendance, laden with some of the finest melons and plums I ever +saw. The latter were of a deep red colour, and of the most tempting +ripeness. When the Tyrolese began to market with these fruit-venders, an +artist might have found in the scene a picturesque variety of character +and costume. + +♦ APPEARANCE OF THE STREETS ♦ + +Though the Hungarians call Mohacs a town I should rather say that it +is a large village, built with the most rustic simplicity. The houses +generally consist of mud walls, roofed with long reeds, each being +surrounded by a high wicker fence, which encloses a considerable space +of ground, including a farm-yard, a well, with the primitive lever for +raising the bucket, and sometimes a garden. Rows of these detached +houses form several irregular streets, which are planted with shady +trees, on each side. Cocks were crowing in all directions, otherwise one +would scarcely have thought that the place had been inhabited, such was +the silence that prevailed. Even the dogs were mute, sleeping, perhaps, +through the noonday heat. The gable ends of the cottages generally faced +the street, the roof being carried a foot or two beyond the walls, on +which, or upon the window-sills, were strung in the sun, quantities of +a rich-looking green and ruby fruit, here called the golden apple, and +resembling our girkin in form. It is preserved for pickling, is full of +seeds, and even before being pickled is not disagreeable to the taste. I +tried to get into the two churches which belong to the village, but they +were locked. Their external appearance was decent. + +♦ INDUSTRY OF WOMEN ♦ + +The coals and wood were carried to our boat in wheelbarrows by a number +of muscular, active, hardworking girls; hundreds of men were loitering +on the bank, not one of whom could be prevailed upon to assist in the +labour, through sheer laziness. We were consequently detained more +than three hours by an operation, which ought to have been completed +within less than half the time, as the depôt was within twenty yards of +the river. For their industry on this occasion these poor girls, who +went through the work with indefatigable cheerfulness, received only +portions of flax, respectively equivalent to about two or three pence of +our money. + +♦ HUNGARIAN LADIES ♦ + +While these girls were engaged in their task, the first crowd of +spectators gradually dispersed, and left the scene open to some more +respectable groups, who came to gratify their curiosity. Several +young ladies appeared in their hair, which was tastefully arranged, +protected from the sun by parasols, and in other respects attired in the +English style. They were attended by their maids, who also displayed +their ringlets, and but for the smart white aprons by which they were +distinguished, might have been mistaken for their mistresses. These +attractions had the usual effect of summoning also to the general +rendezvous, the beaux of the neighbourhood who were for the most part +apparelled in black velvet vests, and white trousers: a short white +cloak decorated at the collar with red worsted lace, and conspicuously +exhibiting a red cross in front, being carelessly thrown over the left +shoulder. + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + Steam-boat aground--Tyrolese melodies--Night scene--“Hanger + on”--Auction at cards--Knave of clubs game--How to float a + steamer--Military valet--Kamenitz--Odescalchi convent--Parting + game--Kissing--Neusatz--Carlovitz--Semlin--Greek church--Plague at + Constantinople--Belgrade--Semendria--Magnificent expanse of the + Danube--Islands of enchantment--Sunset--Spirits of the Danube. + + +♦ STEAM-BOAT AGROUND ♦ + +We took our departure from Mohacs soon after three o’clock in the +afternoon, having in the mean while dined on vermicelli soup, bouilli +served up with beetroot, roast fowl presented on a couch of stewed +cabbage, beef steaks, boiled rice sweetened and browned before the fire, +together with roast capon, accompanied as usual by plum sauce. I was +glad to see Count P---- once more in his place at the table. From the +appearance of some fishing-boats which I saw for the first time on the +Danube, about two hours after we left Mohacs, I flattered myself with +the hope that we began to enter the deepest part of the river, which as +it was now full a mile in width, was well entitled to be described as an +inland sea. The banks indeed were still low and sandy, which detracted +from its beauty. In the distance on the right, a sugar-loafed mountain, +rising above the summit of a range of hills, indicated an approaching +change of scenery; while we perceived the commencement of a forest on +our left, lower down the river: but in other respects the country around +us was altogether uninteresting. While I was indulging in a day-dream +upon the novelties I was about to encounter, a sudden shock, of no great +violence, however, warned us all that we were absolutely aground. The +captain treated the accident with entire indifference, and it was not +until he found that we were literally imbedded in the sand that he even +thought of despatching a man in the small boat to sound the river on +either side. We had the mortification to observe that in every part of +the river at the distance of a few feet from the steamer, there was an +over-abundance of water, and that had we industriously sought for a +sandbank on which to run the vessel, by no effort of skill could we have +found it any where except on the very spot where we were now detained. +Instead of making any immediate exertions to extricate the boat from +this disagreeable situation, our captain walked up and down the deck for +a while, looking vacantly around him, scarcely knowing what to do. An +anchor was at length borne out to a distance and thrown into the river, +with a slight rope attached to it, which was carried round the axle of +the windlass. The men were then set to work with a view, by pulling at +the anchor, to shift the boat from its unfortunate position; but the +rope was no sooner strained than it broke; it was tied and broke again +and again, until every body saw that the cord was much too slender for +the purpose. It was at length suggested that the only course which +remained was to lighten the vessel of its cargo, when it would probably +float of itself; but as this was an operation that would occupy some +hours, and the day had now nearly reached its close, we were obliged to +content ourselves with remaining motionless for the night. + +♦ TYROLESE MELODIES ♦ + +The Tyrolese considerately resolved to console us all under our +misfortune, by singing in concert some of their choicest national +melodies. They had amongst them an admirable base, and two or three +excellent treble voices, which gave with great effect the leading +stanzas; the whole, men and women, joined in the chorus. It was a +singular musical entertainment on the bosom of the broad Danube: and +ought to have had the Alps to re-echo the songs of the hunter, and the +wild tones of the shepherd, which lost some portion of their cheering +influence by being flung along these quiet waters. We could not but +perceive that the simple people mingled with the song, feelings of +remembrance that they were already far from their native mountains, to +which they were never to return. + +♦ NIGHT SCENE ♦ + +The evening was beautiful. A warm golden tinge illumined the atmosphere +all round the horizon; while, in the transparent azure of the concave +above, myriads of worlds were exulting in their light, visited now and +then by meteors which passed like seraphic messengers from one region +of the heavens to another. The waning moon rose late, and so low in the +firmament that it seemed an apparition evoked by some enchantress from +the waters around us. While I was contemplating this scene my attention +was disturbed by a tremendous fire which broke out at some distance +beyond the forest on our left. A column of dense smoke ascended in +the sky, which reflecting the blaze below seemed itself an unearthly +conflagration. In a little time the whole of the horizon in that +direction appeared to be in flames; we concluded that the fire which had +probably begun in some village, as is often the case in this country, +had reached the forest. The flames were reflected also in the Danube, +and appeared to have threatened more than common dangers in their +course, as we heard in the far distance the sound of horns spreading the +alarm. + +♦ “HANGER ON.” ♦ + +In the cabin, however, we all assembled in our usual spirits. The +Countess N---- was the object of marked attention on the part of the +gentlemen, amongst whom, I must confess, she distributed her smiles +with laudable impartiality. Her sparkling black eyes evinced no want +of self-possession, nor could I perceive that she was much distressed +by her separation from her husband. The Count P---- was accompanied on +his return from Mohacs by a kind of “hanger on,” a military man, poor +but merry, and though to the count habitually obsequious, a goodnatured +fellow. He spoke French fluently. In the course of several conversations +which I had with this decayed gentleman, who seemed to know something +of the world, he fully confirmed all I had hitherto heard of the spirit +of liberty which prevails generally amongst the Hungarians, and of their +fixed determination to convert their diet into a real representation of +the kingdom. The example of England, he said, was not unknown to his +countrymen, who greatly admired her institutions. + +♦ AUCTION AT CARDS ♦ + +After supper we played at a round game called the “auction.” The dealer +held up a certain number of cards, taken indiscriminately from the +pack, and sold them to the highest bidders. When the auction, which was +conducted by Count P---- with infinite drollery, came to a conclusion, +the produce was collected and divided into four or five prizes, the +first being the highest, and the others lessening in proportion. The +remainder of the pack was distributed amongst the players. A second +pack was then given to the dealer, who drew from it at hazard, without +permitting any body to see them, as many cards as there were prizes to +be contended for. These cards so drawn were placed separately on the +table, and on the back of each a prize was deposited. He next proceeded +to turn up successively the remainder of the second pack, comparing +each card as it appeared with those held by the players, who laid down +a corresponding card until the second pack was exhausted. Consequently +there would at that period remain in their possession only the cards +which corresponded with those under the prizes: these latter cards were +finally displayed with due solemnity, and those who were the fortunate +holders of similar ones won the prizes placed upon each. I have never +seen a round game so productive as this was of interest, curiosity, and +merriment. + +♦ KNAVE OF CLUBS GAME ♦ + +Another laughter-stirring game was this: All the knaves, except the +knave of clubs are discharged from the pack. The cards are then dealt +out to the party in hands of five each. If the party be not numerous +enough to exhaust the pack at the first deal, then the hands are +increased to eight or ten, in order to accomplish that purpose. The +player who holds two cards of the same class--for instance, two aces, or +two queens--puts them away, but he is not entitled to get rid of more +than two at a time. The leading hand, on the left of the dealer, if he +hold two such cards, turns them up, and places them in the middle of +the table; if he do not hold a pair then the lead passes on to him who +does. After losing these two cards he then places the cards remaining +in his hand on the table, back upwards. His neighbour next takes one +card out of the hand so laid down, makes a pair if he can in order to +reduce his hand in the same manner, and puts down the remainder. The +third player follows the same course, and it is obvious that as the +company hold amongst them two pairs of all the cards except the knaves, +the knave of clubs must ultimately fall to the lot of some unfortunate +wight. He or she, for this game knows no distinction of sex, is then +decorated with a black eye, or a pair of moustaches, by means of a burnt +cork. This is a game not merely of fun but of absolute riot; for the +operation of painting being usually resisted, the available force of the +company is called out to carry the law into execution. + +♦ FLOATING A STEAMER ♦ + +At an early hour the following morning (26th) a large flat-bottomed boat +was rowed alongside our steamer, and the crew with the assistance of +our Tyrolese in a few hours transferred the greater part of the cargo +from one vessel to the other. The steamer having been thus materially +frightened, rose from its bed in the sand and floated into deeper water, +where it was reloaded and about one o’clock in the afternoon we resumed +our voyage. While the removals of the cargo were going on I observed +that the cases in which it was contained were usually directed in the +Latin language, in a style of which the following is a specimen: + + “Spectabili ac Perillustri Domino Francisco Najmay.” + +♦ MILITARY VALET ♦ + +The scenery on either side of the river continued, during the whole +of the day, as uninteresting as that which we had already passed. The +country on the left was still occupied by forests. On the right I +observed the ruins of an old fortification, of which a round tower and +the principal castle remain. Here and there on the same bank we noticed +villages built after the fashion of Mohacs. Immense flights of wild +ducks appeared from time to time, but we found it impossible to get +a shot at any of them, very much to the disappointment of a military +aspirant, who was valet to the Tyrolese doctor. This man was always +dressed in a hussar jacket and tight pantaloons, over which he wore +Hessian boots, with enormous spurs attached to them. It was amusing to +see him wait upon his master of a morning in this attire, with towel and +basin in his hand, or perhaps a clean shirt, or perhaps a pestle and +mortar to mix up some drugs. I have no doubt, such was the ludicrous +military vanity of this fellow, that of the two he would much rather +lose his place than his spurs, which, by the by, were perpetually +tripping him up. He disdained to mingle with the colonists, unless when +he was commissioned to administer a dose, a duty which he performed with +very visible reluctance. + +During the evening, the deck before the mast seemed to have been turned +into a barber’s shop, the operator being one of the Tyrolese _women_, +who went through her labours with such admirable skill and expedition, +that even the gentlemen availed themselves of her services. When this +necessary office was over, prayers were said by the Tyrolese, who all +assembled together for that purpose, after which an elderly matron +sprinkled holy water amongst them. + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + KAMENITZ. + _London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._] + +♦ KAMENITZ ♦ + +The towns of Vuckovar and Kamenitz, which we passed by without visiting +the following day (27th), appeared, at a distance on our right, to be +of some importance. The former boasts of a fine convent for monks, +and several churches, which to us, at least, seemed more than usually +handsome. Trees shaded the streets as usual. Several boats laden with +black earthenware were in its little port, and groups of girls were +engaged at the river-side in procuring supplies of water, which they +took away in pitchers, suspended at the extremities of an elastic pole, +which was balanced on the right shoulder. Wicker cars were busily +driving in and out of the town, and in a field near it a troop of +cavalry were exercising their horses. + +♦ ODESCALCHI CONVENT ♦ + +Not far from Vuckovar, on an abrupt hill, which immediately overlooks +the Danube, there is another monastery, said to have been erected by +a prince of the house of Odescalchi, an Italian family, whose wealth +was at one period of their career supposed to be inexhaustible. The +establishment belongs to the Franciscans, and appeared to be almost a +town in itself. + +The country as we approached Peterwardein improved rapidly upon us. +On our right undulating hills, wooded with shrubs, villages prettily +situated on the heights, their church spires rising above the trees, +which no village is without, announced a more fertile, a more populous, +and a more cultivated part of Hungary than we had seen since our +departure from Pesth. I remained generally on deck, watching the +variations of scenery which presented themselves, as in a moving +panorama. I did not fail, however, to mingle with my fellow-passengers +occasionally, for whom the aspect of the country had not the same +attractions of novelty. I found the gentlemen whenever I went down +almost constantly engaged at cards--and the ladies knitting, or telling +each other’s fortunes on cards, or arranging them on the table in a +diversity of figures, which required no little ingenuity, the result of +many a long idle hour’s experience. + +♦ PARTING GAME ♦ + +I have no objection myself to a merry round game for an hour or so at +night, or to a determined rubber or two of whist at the same genial +season; but I have an invincible distaste for any such amusement, under +any circumstances whatever, in the light of day. This my new friends +soon found out, and they could not account for it, though I explained it +as an affair of habit. However one auction game, they said, we must have +before we separated, in which the whole cabin must be interested, and +the first prize was to be accompanied by a licence to the winner, if a +gentleman, to kiss every lady on board. My gallantry was touched by this +proposal, and, of course, I sat down at the table, upon which there was +a general shout of triumph. + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + PETERWARDEIN. + _London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._] + +The ladies joined in the game, as they said, for their own protection; +but it was plain enough that none of them wished to win the first prize, +though it was equally clear, that they were anxious it should not fall +to the lot of a huge Hungarian sergeant, whom Count P----, for the +drollery of the contrast between this man and the delicate countess, had +purposely invited from before the mast, to participate in our contest. I +need not say that great was the rivalry at the auction, over which the +count, as usual, presided, so that the prices at which the cards were +knocked down, went far beyond all former example. + +♦ KISSING ♦ + +In due course the cards were drawn for the prizes and placed under +them--the ladies were already preparing, by coquettish smiles and +transient blushes, and gentle palpitations, for the visitation they were +about to undergo. At length the ominous card was called out, when lo! to +the mortification, most especially of the young Tyrolese doctor, and to +the consternation of the pretty countess, the sergeant proved to be the +happy man! Her ladyship with inimitable grace allowed the cyclop to kiss +her hand, with which he had the good taste to be contented; but he had +ample revenge, amidst peals of laughter, on a dry old maid, whom nobody +would have kissed but himself. + +♦ NEUSATZ ♦ + +We arrived at Neusatz, opposite Peterwardein, at two o’clock; and after +dinner, at which we drank to each other’s health and happiness with +feelings of kindness, if not of friendship, whose evident sincerity and +warmth showed that the moment of separation was not without pain on all +sides, I found myself almost alone in the cabin. My fellow-passengers +took leave of me in the most warmhearted terms, and I think I never felt +so desolate as I did during the remainder of that evening. + +The boat having been detained for an hour at Neusatz I strolled through +the town, which consists of long straggling streets recently built, +and full of shops, in which were sold toys, grocery, clothes, censers, +ironmongery, tinware, earthenware, wooden bowls, dishes, and trenchers, +all of very rude fashion, and jewellery of an ordinary description. I +saw several Greek priests here, in long cloth cassocks, shovel hats, and +long beards. They were remarkably neat in their persons, and humble in +their demeanour. The principal church of the town had not much to boast +of, except a series of ensigns which were taken during the Austrian wars +with Turkey. + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + NEUSATZ. + _London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._] + +♦ CARLOVITZ ♦ + +Neusatz is connected by a bridge of boats with the more ancient town +of Peterwardein, on the opposite bank of the Danube, which is defended +by one of the strongest fortresses on the river. The works are erected +on a lofty rock, naturally very difficult of access from the river, +and protected on the land side by extensive bastions and towers, which +exhibit a formidable appearance. The place was well garrisoned. + +Five of the boats which contributed to sustain the bridge having been +disconnected at one end from the line, and suffered to yield to the +force of the current, they gradually swung round together with that +portion of the bridge upon them, so as to afford an opening through +which we passed on our way down the river. Our cabin passengers were now +reduced to four; a little humdrum widow, who never ceased to chatter, +the Tyrolese doctor, a young surgeon who joined him from Neusatz, and +myself. Carlovitz, a town prettily situated on the side of a hill, and +celebrated for its wines, soon attracted observation on our right. The +hills gradually increased in boldness as we proceeded, until night +veiled them from our view, when we cast anchor in the middle of the +stream. The sky was overcast with clouds, threatening a disagreeable +change of weather. I took refuge from an oppressive sense of loneliness +in some books which I had fortunately brought with me. + +♦ SEMLIN ♦ + +About nine o’clock on the following morning (28th), the spires of Semlin +appeared in view, and a little further down the river the cupolas and +minarets of Belgrade. The steamer having cast anchor before the former +place, I immediately went ashore, and explored its curiosities. It +being Sunday the church bells were ringing in all directions, and the +market, which was well supplied with vegetables and fruit, including a +peculiarly fine species of green water-melon, was thronged with people +decked out in several varieties of holiday costume, Hungarian, Greek, +Turkish, and Armenian. + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + SEMLIN. + _London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._] + +♦ GREEK CHURCH ♦ + +After hearing mass in one of the Roman catholic churches, which was +attended by a respectable and, apparently, a very devout congregation, +I went to the church belonging to the Greek catholic form of worship. +As usual in these edifices it had no pews or seats of any description +in the body of the church; near the screen, behind which the altar +was secluded, a few stalls were arranged on each side, not, however, +for sitting but for standing, and a round platform was raised in the +middle, I presume for the lecturer or preacher. The screen, a curious +specimen of the arts of the middle ages, was elaborately carved and +gilt, and ornamented with portraits of the saints, which were painted in +the old Venetian style. In the centre there was a doorway veiled by a +curtain. Very few persons were present at the service, the greater part +of which, according to the rites of the Greek church, was performed with +mysterious secrecy behind the screen: at certain parts of the mass the +curtain was drawn aside, and the ceremonies were then witnessed by those +in attendance. There was no organ, but a small and very indifferent +choir sung, in the ancient Gregorian chant, those portions of the mass +which are commonly set to music. + +♦ PLAGUE AT CONSTANTINOPLE ♦ + +Semlin being the frontier town of the Austrian dominions in that +quarter, where travellers proceeding from Servia, or the interior of +Turkey, are obliged to submit to a quarantine of fourteen days, I was +anxious to hear the latest intelligence concerning the plague, which, I +was informed at Vienna, prevailed in Constantinople to a serious extent. +With the assistance of our engineer, I soon found out a French agent, +who acts as the interpreter of the government; and from him I learned, +with no small pain, that the plague continued to increase, that from +eight hundred to a thousand persons were swept away by it daily; and +that among the most recent victims was Mr. Wood, an Englishman, who was +dragoman to the British embassy. This fact excited some alarm in my +mind, as I had been hitherto taught to believe that the Franks usually +escaped the pestilence, either from their more cleanly habits, their +more substantial diet, or from their residing in a more airy quarter of +the capital. Before we left Semlin, however, an Austrian courier came on +board, who stated that a gentleman in the service of his government had +passed through, from the quarantine station, only the day before, on his +way from Constantinople, and that his report was more favourable. The +plague had undoubtedly been very violent; but it had latterly been on +the decline. The post from Semlin to Constantinople usually takes nine +days; and I was assured that the latest letters fully confirmed this +intelligence. + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + BELGRAD. + _London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._] + +♦ BELGRADE ♦ + +We quitted Semlin at noon, and passed by Belgrade, keeping, however, as +close as possible to the Hungarian bank of the Danube, in obedience to +the quarantine laws, which are enforced here with the utmost rigour. +The city, which is associated with so many interesting recollections +of the wars between Austria and the Ottoman empire, looks a splendid +collection of mosques, with their white tall minarets, palaces with +their domes, gardens, cypresses, and shady groves. The citadel, which +is strongly fortified, occupies a lofty hill that overlooks every part +of the town, and is well calculated for its defence. The palace and +seraglio of the pacha were pointed out to me by our captain; they cover +a considerable space of ground, and exhibit an imposing appearance. A +considerable river, the Theiss, by which it is supposed the cholera +a few years ago found its way into Hungary from Russia, flows into +the Danube a little above Semlin. I expected therefore, to have found +the Danube here exhibiting some signs of grandeur and of commercial +activity: it does, indeed, present a most magnificent sheet of water, +upon which the whole British navy might ride with safety;--but, with the +exception of a few small wherries in which some dirty Turks were fishing +lazily in the sun, there was scarcely a symptom of animation around us. +Belgrade itself looked at a distance like a city of the dead. + +♦ SEMENDRIA ♦ + +The Hungarian side of the river was flat and desolate; the erection +of mud cottages here and there on piles, three or four feet from the +ground, indicated the height to which the river was raised occasionally +by inundations. The cottages which we perceived sometimes on the Servian +shore, were equally miserable, though the country was much higher, +crowned at some distance by finely-wooded hills. By four o’clock in the +afternoon Semendria came in sight. This was once an important naval +station and powerful fortress in the hands of the Turks; but it has for +many years fallen into decay. I saw in its port two brigs of war, of +eight guns each, which had been recently built for the Prince of Servia, +Milosch, by a company of carpenters from the island of Zante. They were +both aground, and appeared to have no chance of being extricated from +their position until the winter. Semendria is prettily situated at the +foot of a hill, which almost approaches to the dignity of a mountain. It +is defended on the side of the Danube by walls and castles in the old +style of fortification, which look picturesque at a distance, but could +afford no protection against the artillery of modern times. The castles +seemed to be the habitation of a numerous tribe of birds. Near the town +I observed a pretty villa, in the grounds belonging to which two ladies +veiled like nuns were promenading. + +♦ EXPANSE OF THE DANUBE ♦ + +The Danube seemed, near Belgrade, an expanse of waters which would have +afforded ample space for the whole of the British navy. We had scarcely +left Semendria behind us when the river became still wider, resembling +indeed a vast lake, sufficient to contain all the navies of the world. +It was here in every respect a truly magnificent object. The more I +became acquainted with this noble river, the greater was my astonishment +that it was so little known to Europe, and hitherto so rarely made use +of for the purposes of commerce. Just as the sun was on the decline, +flinging his last rays on the tranquil mirror beneath us, the Tyrolese +crowded on deck, and favoured us with several of their national songs, +which they performed with infinite spirit. It was the last time I was to +hear them, as we expected to arrive at night at Vipalanka, where they +were to debark on their way to Transylvania. + +♦ ISLANDS OF ENCHANTMENT ♦ + +After passing Kubin, we perceived the commencement of several groups of +islands, which, however beautiful in themselves, diminish the majestic +character the Danube would otherwise have maintained the whole way from +Semendria to Moldava. They occasionally divide the waters into two or +three rivers in appearance; none of which, however, can be considered +as insignificant. The main current which runs by the Hungarian bank +retains uniformly much of the general grandeur of the parent flood. +These islands are densely wooded with osiers and evergreen shrubs, which +afford a safe refuge for waterfowl of every description. Wild ducks, and +geese, frequently rose in clouds one above another in the sky, winging +their way towards their island homes. Now and then a solitary eagle +sailed through the firmament, directing his course to the mountains, +which appeared like pure azure far away on the horizon. + +As we proceeded among the islands, we could not avoid admiring the +picturesque order in which they were disposed, the vernal verdure +which every tree and every leaf and every blade of grass exhibited, +while the brown tints of the woods and fields in all other quarters +proclaimed the season of the year. This contrast of decay on one side, +with the blooming freshness of the islands on the other, the variety of +their forms, their shady inlets, their clusters of magnificent shrubs +hung with flowers that sometimes rivalled the rose, sometimes the +strawberry, the snowdrop, the lily, or the blue convolvulus, the wild +beauty of their woods, the deep solitude in which they seemed to be +secluded from all the world, interrupted only by the screams or rushing +sounds of countless birds hastening to their shores, gave them a most +romantic appearance, especially in the golden light of evening which +still lingered around them. + +♦ SUNSET ♦ + +The unruffled surface of the Danube reflected the whole canopy of the +sky, and gave back in softened tones the saffron, ruby, and purple lines +of fire which still glowed in the west. The image of the departing sun +was lengthened in the waters, where it appeared like a perpendicular +column of light. This optical delusion was the more striking, as the +part of the Danube in which we had now arrived was, in fact, little +better than a series of shallows, through which we were steering our +course with the utmost difficulty. + +♦ SPIRITS OF THE DANUBE ♦ + +As soon as the sun went down, the night became rapidly so dark, that I +know not how we should have contrived to pursue our way, had not some +fields of stubble on the left bank been accidentally set on fire. The +flame threw its light far along the river, and materially assisted the +helmsman to keep his track. Here and there, among the inlets of the +islands on the opposite shore, lights also were visible, proceeding from +fires kindled for the purposes of cooking, by fishermen or fowlers, +whose little boats were moored in the neighbourhood. Vast pillars of +smoke moved now and then over the blazing stubbles, assuming the most +fantastic shapes; sometimes, as they apparently flitted along the bank, +they might have been painted by an imaginative spectator as the spirits +of the Danube. + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + Windings of the Danube--Civility of the Moldavian--Arrival at + Moldava--Arrangements for voyage to Orsova--A Wallachian beauty-- + Flock of geese--Ditto of children--Woodmen--Commencement of mountain + chain--Rustic sounds--Peasantry--Removal to fishing-boat--Our + equipment--Accusation of robbery--Haunt of Wallachian brigands-- + Romantic gorge--Caverns. + + +I was awoke during the night by a violent storm of thunder and +lightning, which I attempted to witness from the deck. The sky was an +entire field of fire, and the thunder pealed incessantly, until at +length the rain fell in warm showers which soon became a deluge. I +was glad to take refuge in my berth again, and slept soundly until a +late hour of the morning (29th), when I found our Tyrolese and their +officers all busily engaged in landing their effects at Vipalanka. The +bank was converted into a marsh by the rain; but, by the assistance of +planks, they succeeded in effecting their object. The village was at a +distance, and its mean appearance did not induce me to pay it a visit. +Nearly opposite to Vipalanka are situated the village and fortress of +Rama, on the brow of a bold and lofty promontory. The fortress still +looks respectable, though partly in ruins; it commands the Danube at +a point where begin those amazing serpentine undulations which form, +perhaps, its most striking characteristic. + +♦ WINDINGS OF THE DANUBE ♦ + +The map will show, that, if a canal were cut in a straight line from +Rama to Vidin, it would be the cord of a vast irregular arch, full +of windings, which indicate the various struggles made by this river +in the early ages of the globe, before and after it forced its way +through the heart of the mountains below Moldava, in its efforts to +reach the Black Sea. Such a canal would save the navigator a period +of full three days, which the mere deviations of the river in that +quarter at present consume. Such a canal would, moreover, avoid some of +the most serious difficulties now impeding the passage of the Danube, +especially in seasons of drought, which are peculiarly felt in the +whole of that interval. I despair of such a work being undertaken for +the next half-century; but I am apprehensive that, until it shall be +accomplished, the steam navigation of the Danube, at least by vessels +of any considerable burden, will be liable to frequent interruptions. +In the river, cranes were wading without any difficulty, so low was the +water in almost every direction. + +♦ CIVILITY OF THE MOLDAVIAN ♦ + +When we departed from Vipalanka for Moldava our passengers were reduced +to the Servian Jew and his pale daughter, the Moldavian adventurer, and +myself. The latter contrived throughout the voyage to amuse himself and +his associates by his inexhaustible stores of poetry and anecdote, but +he had not hitherto addressed himself with any thing like determination +to my attention, or to that of the Jew. Finding, however, that we were +bound further down the river, he gradually mingled in our conversation +by volunteering the information which he possessed concerning the +portion of the voyage we had still to achieve, and conducted himself +with so much civility, that, notwithstanding his objectionable +appearance I began to like the fellow. + +♦ ARRIVAL AT MOLDAVA ♦ + +Although the rain had ceased, the morning continued cloudy; but we were +compensated in some degree for the interruption of the fine weather, +which we lately enjoyed, by the agreeable change of scenery that now +broke upon our view. We glided along, sounding vigilantly however, all +the way, between two ranges of hill, wooded to the top, and opening +now and then into valleys and ravines, in which neat white cottages +were scattered, and shepherds were seen driving their flocks afield. +The bendings of the river were so abrupt that sometimes we could have +imagined ourselves to have entered upon an extensive lake, whence there +was no outlet apparent until we reached the headland round which the +current preserved its course. As soon as we turned that point the scene +behind us was as completely concealed from the eye as if a curtain of +cloud had been dropped upon it. + +Fields of Indian corn, hills deeply indented by the rains, and +exhibiting sometimes the appearance of artificial fortresses, sometimes +retiring to a distance, and leaving in front abrupt mounds of the most +fantastic shapes; villages with their churches and steeples on one side, +and churches and minarets on the other; Servians on our right fishing in +little cockle-shells of boats; Hungarians on the left tending herds of +swine; mountains towering in the distance--in turn engaged our attention +until we arrived at Moldava, where we cast anchor at noon. + +♦ ARRANGEMENTS ♦ + +Had the plan of the directors of the enterprise been duly carried into +execution, we should have immediately quitted Moldava in a light boat +owed by four stout Wallachians, and drawing little more than six inches +of water. A neat wherry destined for that purpose was in fact lying +near the village, but to our dismay we were informed that in many parts +of the Danube between Moldava and Orsova, a distance of about seven +leagues, there were not six inches of water, nor even three. The cargo +was intended to be sent on by land, but there was no mode of conveyance +for the passengers except a rough flat-bottomed boat belonging to a +fisherman, who would not permit us to have the use of it, unless it was +committed to his own guidance and rowed by his own comrades. We were +informed by the agent of the company, an Italian, who assumed an air of +great importance, that we should easily reach Orsova in eight hours at +the utmost. Having no choice, therefore, save the flat-bottomed boat, or +a pedestrian tour of twice the distance, over horrible mountain roads, +we submitted to our fate, and it was arranged that the fisherman should +take charge of us at daybreak the next morning. + +♦ WALLACHIAN BEAUTY ♦ + +Moldava is an emporium of some commerce in its way. Several boats were +moored near the bank, laden with hay, which groups of peasants were +engaged in transferring to strong rude cars constructed in the form of a +V. Some fifty or sixty oxen, by which these cars were to be drawn, were +lying on the shore ruminating, or wandering about by way of relaxation. +The cars proceeded to the waterside in succession; in one of these, +which was waiting for its turn, I observed a remarkably fine Wallachian +woman, spinning wool from a distaff in the primeval fashion. She was +attired in a short woollen white mantle, under which was a robe of +printed calico, which, without appearing in front, came down below the +mantle behind. A neat linen chemise was folded in plaits upon her bosom, +beneath which she sported a gay dimity apron, and a canvass petticoat. +Her raven-black hair was carefully divided in front, braided over her +ears, and detained in a knot behind by a tortoiseshell comb, from which +was suspended a snow-white linen veil, that fell on her back gracefully. +Neither shoe nor sandal served to hide her feet, which might have been +chosen by Phidias for the statue of Minerva. This noble-looking woman, +whose features were all of the Grecian mould, was the mother of three +very fine young men, who were standing by her, accompanied by a huge +mastiff, as if their purpose had been to exhibit a living _tableau_ from +the pastoral age and country of Agamemnon. + +♦ FLOCK OF GEESE ♦ + +Amongst the busy group, a young Greek priest recognised some friends. +He seemed a man of authority, in his peaked Shylock-looking hat, black +sutan, cincture of wide blue ribbon, comely beard, and silver-headed +cane. I pitied a little boy who was employed in urging a numerous colony +of geese through the crowd. They seemed very much disposed to prefer +making the journey by water, while he was equally determined in favour +of the dry land. Now a wild dog put them all into confusion, when off +they half-waddled, half-flew, to the edge of the river. Now they were +fairly on the march again, when the leader desirous of cooling his bill, +suddenly gave the word of command. A general mutiny ensued,--the boy ran +breathless after them, throwing sticks and stones, sand and cowdung at +the fugitives, until he succeeded once more in restoring discipline. His +patience was, after many severe trials, eventually rewarded by success. +On another part of the shore some Servians were squatted in a line, with +sacks of onions before them, which they had brought across the river for +sale. A plank was placed between them and their Hungarian customers, who +stood at a little distance, neither being allowed to pass over the plank +which represented the quarantine. The bargains were conducted on the +part of the Servians by a single spokesman, who appeared an extremely +knowing sort of personage. + +♦ FLOCK OF CHILDREN ♦ + +I walked into the village, or rather, I should say, the lower part of +the “town,” which is chiefly inhabited by fishermen. It is inferior in +every respect to Mohacs, the cottages having all roofs of wood, wicker +walls plastered with mud, and even wicker chimneys. As I was strolling +quietly along a troop of almost naked little urchins gathered, shouting, +around me, and grasping my right hand kissed it with tokens of fervour, +which I confess I should have excused under the circumstances, not +knowing exactly what might be the practical recollections impressed on +the said hand of the honours which they thought fit to bestow. A few +small pieces of silver had the effect of dispersing this group, but +also of diffusing information through the whole village of the arrival +of a stranger. Accordingly, as I proceeded, my steps were literally +beset by armies of ragged figures, who claimed my hand. I gave them +to understand, in the course of a regular parley, that I had no more +silver, upon which I was suffered to make a retreat, without being +enabled to visit the upper part of the “town,” where, as I afterwards +learned, much better houses, and a respectable class of inhabitants are +to be found. + +♦ WOODMEN ♦ + +The mountainous scenery of the Danube commences a little below Moldava. +I set out to climb one of the eminences, from which I might command a +view of the country. I had no gun, no arms of any description; nothing +except an umbrella, which I might use in self-defence.--I never, by the +way, encountered an Englishman travelling abroad or at home without an +umbrella: it seems a national distinction.--I do not know that I acted +with much prudence in thus wandering alone and unarmed in a strange, and +I may add, a more than semibarbarous region; the more especially, as in +the course of my excursion among these mountains, I met now and then +savage-looking woodmen returning home from the neighbouring thickets, +driving before them donkies almost hidden beneath their burdens of +brambly firewood, and bearing on their shoulders heavy axes, with which, +if they were so disposed, they might have annihilated me without the +slightest danger of discovery. But in all such cases I was circumspect, +and being nearly as tall and as strong as the ordinary run of men, I had +few apprehensions about encountering at least a single foe, if not taken +unawares. + +♦ MOUNTAIN CHAIN ♦ + +As I ascended I found that the mountains which I trod were but steps +to higher and higher ranges, which rose dimly in the distance, and +appeared to occupy a considerable portion of the country on both +sides of the Danube. By what process the river forced its way among +them--whether they were violently separated from each other by repeated +volcanic operations, or whether the flood created its own channel by +loosening masses of rock and driving them before it--I had no means of +conjecturing. The chain commences here almost like a wall at either side +of the current; but the undulations of the hills which I had observed +on our approach to Moldava, as well as of the lower mountains at some +distance from the banks, strongly favour the supposition that a vast +inundation had accumulated in all that region before an opening was +found for it to the Euxine. + +♦ RUSTIC SOUNDS ♦ + +A few white cottages were sprinkled on the declivities, and swineherds +were seen here and there driving their undisciplined companions +homeward. A train of waggons laden with woolpacks, and drawn by oxen, +whose bells tinkled in the air, was descending from the northern +heights; but on the Servian side of the river all was silence and +desolation. I thought the evening was about to close in abruptly, as +after a slight shower of rain the mountains and hills around me suddenly +put on their mantles of mist. The sun setting with great splendour soon, +however, changed the scene, arraying their prominent slopes in robes of +light, and dispersing the vapours which were fast gathering all round +the horizon. + +♦ PEASANTRY ♦ + +As I returned to my temporary home I loitered, not unpleased, to listen +to the variety of rustic noises which the close of the day brought +with it--the barking of dogs, the still tinkling bells of the oxen +already arrived at the river-side, the crack of the swineherd’s whip, +the distant calls of voices echoing in the mountains, the rare and +sleepy twitter of the birds, the shouts of children in the village, +and the merry sounds of a violin. A few old men and their grown-up +hardy daughters were dredging for minnows in the river, apparently +with little success. The woolpacks were all discharged on the bank, +in order to be loaded the next morning on board the steam-boat, which +was to depart without delay on its return to Pesth. The peasants who +had arrived with the waggons exhibited, to me at least, a singular +appearance. Some were in canvass shirts, trousers, and round woolly +caps, without any other protection against cold or rain; others added +to this attire a goatskin in its natural condition, without being even +trimmed of its superfluities. I could not have distinguished the women +from the men, had not the hair of the former been platted and fastened +under a small linen cap, which was fitted closely on the top of the +head. I soon lost sight of the whole of this motley assemblage in the +dusk of night, when I resumed my old station in the cabin, there being +no such thing as an inn at Moldava. + +The Servian Jew found an opportunity of sending his daughter, with some +friends, across the river: he intended to proceed to Vidin. The poet +also was fated to be my companion, as his object was to get back to +Jassy. I own that with all my respect for his talents, and with all the +philosophic patience which I have acquired from some little experience +in travelling, I could not enter into discussion with him, as to the +arrangements necessary to be made for the following morning, without +considerable twinges of reluctance. I had no thought of preparing stores +for the expedition, as I presumed that we should reach Orsova early in +the afternoon. He advised me, however, to provide myself with a cold +chicken or two, and a bottle of rum, a suggestion which I took care +to adopt, though it left me to suspect that my period of inevitable +companionship with himself would be rather longer than I had already +apprehended. + +♦ FISHING-BOAT ♦ + +The morning came in all the breathing brightness of summer, though we +were just on the eve of October. It had been arranged that the fisherman +and his associates should be with us at five o’clock, but they failed to +make their appearance until seven. They excused themselves by asking, +whether any body could have expected that they should commence their +labours before they had breakfasted? Our luggage having been removed +into the flat-bottomed barge, the poet, the Jew, and I assumed our +places, after taking a friendly leave of the captain and the engineer, +from both of whom I experienced every kind of civility which they could +possibly show to a countryman. + +♦ EQUIPMENT ♦ + +The master, or patron of the boat as he is more usually called, was a +short weatherbeaten old man, who had already counted more than seventy +winters. The pupil of one eye was completely dimmed, and of the other +scarcely sufficient remained sound to admit more than a single ray of +light. Yet through that small aperture he issued glances of authority, +which enforced by an imprecation or two, sometimes made the fellows at +the oars wince. His helm was a long oar, which he moved to either side +of the stern as occasion required. The rest of our equipage was in a +very simple, or rather in a very unworkmanlike style. The oars which +were just like our fireshovels, with short handles, were passed through +a noose of thong or rope, tied to a peg in the edge of the vessel, which +noose, or which peg, or which said thong or rope gave way about every +quarter of an hour, another quarter being required for its restoration. +We had three rowers, the excess of velocity at one side being corrected +by the long oar of the patron at the stern. + +♦ ACCUSATION OF ROBBERY ♦ + +We had not gone above two hundred yards from the place of embarkation +when a man came running and shouting after us. We took no notice of +him for a while, thinking that he must have been out of his senses, +so furious were his gesticulations. At length, however, he made us +understand that we had stolen one of his oars, and we were obliged to +put in to shore to answer this charge. After a long controversy, if +controversy that can be called in which our patron and his men, and +their accuser were all talking, scolding, and shouting together, we gave +him up an old oar which he took very discontentedly. About eight o’clock +we were once more fairly on our way. + +There being no sort of accommodation for passengers in our bark, I sat +on my portmanteau; the Jew disposed of himself on a piece of carpet +beside me, and in front of him the poet on the bare plank. A space +near the prow was occupied by a woman and her two children. Much to my +surprise, when we arrived in the middle of the river, and I began to +hope our men were resolved to regain the time we had already lost, they +deliberately took in their oars, and opening a wallet of bread, garlic, +and cold fried fish, they proceeded to breakfast. The poet asked whether +they had not performed that operation already, to which they replied +that they had been disturbed at their morning meal, and that they must +now finish it. Our precious bark was therefore left to make its own way +down the river, a mode of travelling at all events possessed of the +advantages of enabling us to observe at our leisure the scenery amidst +which we entered. + +♦ WALLACHIAN BRIGANDS ♦ + +At the entrance of the mountain gorge through which the Danube here +finds its course, stand the ruins of Kolubatz, a pile of castles built +on an almost inaccessible rock, which about a century ago, were occupied +by a band of Wallachian brigands, under the command of Borichour, a +name still repeated with a traditional sort of terror in all that +neighbourhood. His depredations were carried on upon a princely scale, +as he affected to consider himself the legitimate sovereign of the +country around him, as far as he could reach without endangering the +safety of retreat to his own fortress, which he deemed impregnable. The +fishermen tell numberless stories of this celebrated robber and of his +banditti, who are said to have often fought against disciplined troops, +five times their number, with invariable success. When once shut up +within their drawbridge, they defied their enemies, however numerous +these might be, for even if their castles had been all demolished, +they had secret passages through the interior of their rock leading to +caverns in the adjacent mountains, where they had always ample store of +provisions, and feared no pursuit. The ruins are highly picturesque, and +by their formidable position give probability to the wildest tales that +are related of Borichour and his Wallachians. + +♦ ROMANTIC GORGE ♦ + +The Austrian guardhouse on the opposite bank exhibited a miserable +appearance, when compared with these remains of chivalry. It was built +loosely of uncemented stones, with a wooden roof and even a wooden +chimney. A sentinel was looking out lazily at the door, in front of +which was a stand for arms. Near the house an angle of an old castle +attests, that that side of the river also had its fortress in former +days, though not so extensive as Kolubatz. + +As we proceeded through this romantic gorge, within which the Danube +was pressed by mountains rising on each side to a considerable height, +we heard repeated explosions, which we might easily have mistaken for +discharges of artillery besieging a citadel. We soon observed, however, +a number of men at work on the Hungarian bank, engaged in widening +the carriage-road, and were informed that further down the river it +was necessary to blow up the rocks for that purpose. The echoes of +these detonations resounding among the mountains and along the waters, +gave peculiar interest to the scene; they spoke of enterprise and +industry well applied, and were the harbingers of national prosperity, +civilization and happiness. + +♦ CAVERNS ♦ + +I observed several caverns in our mountain banks as we went along, and +was informed that some of the boldest rocks which shot up in the most +fantastic peaks were all hollow inside, and occasionally inhabited +by fishermen. In the days of brigandage they served as retreats for +pirates, and all sorts of marauders, who rendered the passage of this +part of the Danube an affair of no slight danger. Occasionally masses of +rock appeared above our heads, depending for support on rude pillars, +in which capitals wrought by the hand of nature might be descried. One +immense buttress rose in the shape of a round tower, near the top of +which a large cavern was visible, accessible by a gateway naturally +arched in the Gothic style. + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + Pastoral scene--Echoes--Picture of laziness--Rapids of the + Danube--Miller and his men--Pedestrian excursion--Wallachian + shepherdesses--Dancing boors--Priest of the parish--The governor-- + George Dewar--Contest between the priest and the poet--Supper-- + Musical treat--The Moldavian--Sketch of the inn room--Hospitable + invitation--Triple-bedded room--Latin harangue. + + +♦ PASTORAL SCENE ♦ + +Still falling down with the stream, as our rowers had not yet finished +their matin meal, we stole quietly along amid tremendous piles of rock, +which rose higher and higher as we proceeded, sometimes barren of the +slightest traces of vegetation, sometimes covered with brambles the +whole appearing as if they had been made the sport of more than one +volcanic convulsion. A grassy glen opening on our right, exhibiting a +clustre of elms, beneath which a Servian boy was tending his swine, and +amusing himself by playing a simple pastoral air on a reed, offered an +agreeable contrast to the frowning horrors around us. The eye ranged +beyond the glen over a richly-wooded valley, opening far among the +rocks, where a group of women seemed engaged in cooking by a fire, whose +smoke curled upwards among the trees. + +The pipe of the swineherd seemed to awaken the musical faculties of +our boatmen, one of whom, a short thickbodied Wallachian, wearing on +his head a woolly sheepskin cap, might have been sketched as the very +personification of indolence. His oar was as short as himself, and +when he did permit it to come in contact with the water, his whole +object seemed to be to move it against the least possible quantum of +resistance. When he sated his appetite for garlic and fish, and washed +down those materials by a draught of some thin wine, which he drank from +a small wooden keg, instead of resuming his appointed labour he began to +sing a Wallachian ballad, of which, the following notes may, perhaps, +afford the musical reader some faint idea. + + [Illustration: A musical score.] + +♦ ECHOES ♦ + +It was a wild and melancholy strain, sung with a strong nasal accent; +and in the intervals between the verses, one of our Wallachians, a +lathy, hardy, bareheaded youth, who seemed to have been just brought in +from the woods, set up a shrill abrupt shout, which, from the effect of +the echo, seemed in a little while after to be answered by some voice +far away over the mountains. + +When the process of eating had no longer any charms, and the +attractions, even of song, ceased to captivate our boatmen, they +deliberately went to sleep. As the morning was thus wearing fast away, +while we made little progress, the poet and I took the oars, and rowed +until he could hold out no longer. The narrow rocky gorge, through +which we had been stealing our course for upwards of two hours, at +length gradually opened into a wider channel, hemmed in by irregular +hills, thickly wooded with brambles. As the boat was still wandering +down the current, our fellows all fast asleep, it landed somewhat +roughly on a bed of rocks in the middle of the river. The patron awoke +from his dreams in a violent rage, the fire glancing from his diminutive +eyeball, as if we were all about to be lost in an inch or two of water! + +♦ PICTURE OF LAZINESS ♦ + +The boatmen, when they were roused from slumber, seemed scarcely to +know where they were, or what they were to do: oars and poles were +in immediate requisition, and amid shouts of imprecations, commands, +interrogations, replies, rejoinders, and expressions of indignation +and wonder, how such a thing could happen, they endeavoured in vain to +move the vessel from its place of rest. At length the patron compelled +them to get out upon the rocks and shift the boat along, which they did +without much difficulty, restoring us once more to the deeper current. +The completion of this operation was the signal for another hour of +recreation, which our Wallachians devoted to smoking, keeping the while +under their legs the oars high out of the water. I never beheld such a +picture of laziness as that which these men presented. Our patron seemed +to have the faculty of guiding the boat, though wrapped in profound +sleep; and his companions, when they were not eating or drinking, were +either sleeping, smoking, singing, or lounging, any thing save working, +which they continued as much as they possibly could, to avoid. + +♦ RAPIDS OF THE DANUBE ♦ + +So abrupt and frequent were the windings of the Danube, amid the +beauteous hills which form its banks below the narrow gorge of rocks +above described, that often, on looking back, we saw no trace of the +direction by which we had come; nor, on looking before us, could we +discern by what course we were to proceed. We seemed to be shut in on +all sides, as within a mountain lake, from which there was no apparent +egress, until, by turning a little cape, we found ourselves in another +and another lake, in succession. We left this charming scenery behind +us, on approaching the rapids of the Danube, where its bed is wholly +composed of rough rocks, sometimes starting up in masses nearly to the +surface of the river, sometimes forming a wall, running across from +bank to bank, and producing a perceptible fall in the current. We +were warned of the danger to be encountered on passing these rapids, +by the hoarse murmur of the waters which we had heard at a distance. +The obstacles which the river met in its course produced considerable +undulations on its surface, amounting now and then to waves, on which +our bark was hurried away, notwithstanding all the efforts of our +rowers, and dashed against the rocks. Had our boat not been a very +strong one, or had the impulse been somewhat stronger, we should +probably have been wrecked among these rapids, owing chiefly to the +unskilfulness of our people, as well as the ludicrous state of alarm in +which their ignorance involved them. + +♦ RAPIDS OF THE DANUBE ♦ +♦ MILLER AND HIS MEN ♦ + +The banks again assumed a wild rocky character, and approached so near +each other, that, when the river is full, the volume of waters which +rush through that space must be terrific. As it was, we were constantly +rubbing on the bottom, and might have walked almost dry-footed on +ledges which extended quite across the stream. The boat was literally +carried over these ledges, as there was not water enough to float it. +Our patron repeatedly told us that he, though seventy-three years old, +had never known the Danube so low as it was upon that occasion. In the +almost perpendicular wall which rose on our right, there was a singular +_lusus naturæ_ on a gigantic scale--it was the complete figure of a +water-mill and mill-house petrified, and slightly crushed by an enormous +rock which had fallen upon it from the higher precipices. The face of +the superincumbent mass presented the figure of a monk preaching from +a pulpit; and it only required the existence of a legend, to induce a +superstitious mind to believe, that the “miller and his men” had been +notorious criminals--that the monk had come to reprove them--and that, +while he was still vainly exhorting them to repentance, the whole living +scene was suddenly transformed into stone. + +The whole of this narrow passage amongst the rocks was curious, and +highly romantic. A little beyond the petrified mill, on the opposite +side, we beheld a perfect outline of an immense lion, couching; the +head, the eyes, the mouth, and the paws, were as correctly delineated +on the naked stone, as if they had been drawn by the hand of an artist. +A cluster of rocks, somewhat further on, assumed all the appearance of +the ruins of a cathedral, with its towers and ivied walls, and Gothic +windows and gates. The effect of this pile was remarkably picturesque, +as it rose on an eminence above a mass of green foliage, which seemed to +conceal the lower parts of the cathedral. + +♦ PEDESTRIAN EXCURSION ♦ + +The day was now far advanced, and as we lost all hope of reaching Orsova +that evening, and the further navigation of the rapids became tedious +and disagreeable, I proposed that we should put into what is here +generally considered the Wallachian shore; though, on the maps, it is +all Hungarian as far as Orsova. The inhabitants differ in no respect +from those of Wallachia; they speak the Wallachian language, wear the +Wallachian costume, and, though under the dominion of Austria, look upon +the people of the neighbouring province as of their own kindred. The +Jew and the poet readily complied with my suggestion, and the country +becoming quite level as soon as we emerged from the last rocky gorge, we +directed our helmsman to steer for the left bank, where we landed, with +a view of walking on to the village of Swinich, at a distance of about +ten miles, where we were to stop for the night. + +♦ WALLACHIAN SHEPHERDESSES ♦ + +As we proceeded on our pedestrian journey, we met occasionally +Wallachian shepherdesses, driving before them goats and sheep. They +had uniformly distaffs in their hands, from which they actively +spun the wool round the spindle as they walked along. They were all +barefooted; and, over a canvass petticoat and chemise, usually wore a +stripe of plaid in front and another at the back, with long worsted +tassels hanging beneath. The hair was carefully braided round the +head, and sometimes fell in long plats on the shoulders. Those of the +shepherdesses who were mothers, carried their infants in small cradles +made of hoops, which were suspended by a cord round the neck. When the +baby was to be nursed, the cradle was borne in front; when the little +innocent was asleep, the cot was placed at the mother’s back, who then +resumed her distaff and spindle. + +I was amused by the vigilance with which the shepherdesses, who were +generally fine strong-looking young women, with a bland expression of +countenance, avoided touching even with the hem of their garments any +of our party. Seeing the Jew in the Servian turban and pelisse, they +assumed that we had unlawfully crossed the river from the opposite +shore, and that they would catch the plague if by any misfortune they +had come in contact with us. + +♦ DANCING BOORS ♦ + +Whenever we approached them, therefore, on the narrow paths, they +scampered off into the adjacent fields until we passed, as if we had +been objects of terror. I once unwittingly lifted up the coverlet of a +little crib, which I found on the ground, to peep at the cherub that was +nestled beneath it, when the mother ran up breathless, and hurried away +with her burden, as if she imagined that I had intended to make a victim +of her offspring. + +In the midst of this pastoral scene the sounds of a violin reached our +ears, accompanied by shouts of people dancing. On reaching a clump of +trees we found a rude hut, occupied by a number of the labourers who +were engaged in the works going on upon that bank of the Danube. A large +fire was blazing before the hut at which some of the men were engaged +in roasting kid and frying fish, and stewing vegetables, while others +were dancing to the notes of a fiddle, played by a savage-looking fellow +who was elevated on a chair. They seemed to have abundance of wine, and +they invited us to partake of their fare as well as of their amusement, +with a rough hospitality. The Jew, however, as well as the poet, urged +me with certain shrugs and looks to hasten on; as much as to say, that +our new acquaintances were no better than they should be. I must say, +that when we walked off, some of them did gaze after us with a peculiar +expression of countenance, indicating something like regret that they +had not inquired into the state of our finances. + +♦ PARISH PRIEST ♦ + +Having walked above three hours, we arrived about seven o’clock in the +evening at Swinich, a wretched-looking village, composed of a dozen +or two of huts built in the most primitive style. A flight of ruinous +stone steps led to, what I must call for want of a more appropriate +name, the _auberge_ of the village, where I found several motley groups +of people assembled. In the principal apartment were two large beds, a +few rush-bottomed chairs and wooden stools, a stone stove, and a table +placed near the wall, over which were suspended wax images and little +gaudy daubs of the virgin, the crucifixion, and some of the saints. The +governor of the village, dressed in his blue uniform, was seated at one +end of the table drinking wine, which from its colour as well as its +taste, I should have called cider. + +♦ THE GOVERNOR ♦ + +The Greek priest of the parish, Gregory Georgovitch by name, was +stationed at the other end drinking from a small bottle, without the +interposition of a glass, a weak, pale spirit, called in that country +sleigovitch. The former was a short decent-looking kind of a person, +a picture of good nature, degenerating almost into simplicity, with a +spice of vanity not altogether unbecoming in the “great man” of the +village. The priest had the advantage of the governor in stature, +rivalled him in good humour, and seemed excessively anxious to show +himself greatly superior to his companion, in intelligence. For the +usual sacerdotal hat he substituted a small cloth cap, his beard was of +the ordinary dignified dimensions, and his dress consisted of a large +white figured waistcoat, loose nankeen trousers, over which his boots +were drawn, and a short mantle. His shirt collar was open, _à la Byron_. + +The remainder of the company in this “double-bedded” room consisted +of the overseer of the works going on upon the Danube, the captain of +the patrol which formed the police of the country, an officer of the +quarantine, an officer of the customs, a nondescript with silly face, +a little girl and two or three urchins with whom she was playing. The +priest seemed to have all the talk to himself. No subject was started +in which he did not take the lead, and with which sooner or later he +did not contrive to mix up a quotation in bad Latin from a favourite +theological author, probably the only author in that way with whose +works he had ever made himself acquainted. He spoke fluently, with an +air of self-complacency, but at the same time in a tone of kindness and +hilarity quite patriarchal. Nothing in this world seemed to afford the +governor so much delight as either to put down the priest in argument, +or to witness that operation executed by another; all, however, for +the sake of amusement. He would sometimes in the course of an attack +upon the clergyman’s positions work himself up into a simulated passion +until the latter was provoked into a real one; and then, to the great +entertainment of his _official_ friends, he would suddenly resume +his goodhumoured smile, disconcerting all the angry eloquence of his +antagonist. + +♦ GEORGE DEWAR ♦ + +I was initiated in the characters and habits of these “village +politicians” by an Englishman named George Dewar, who had made his +appearance in the room after I entered it: he had been already apprized +at the other extremity of Swinich that a countryman of his had arrived +at the auberge, and it was so long, he said, since he had heard his own +language spoken, that he came instantly to see me. Dewar was a very +intelligent though humble adventurer in the engineering line, who had +managed the diving-bell which was employed in recovering the treasure +sunk near the Mexican coast, in consequence of the wreck of the Thetis a +few years ago. He had performed his duties so much to the satisfaction +of his employers on that occasion, that he was strongly recommended to +the Count Szechenyi Istvan, when that nobleman was in London, as a very +useful assistant, as well for superintending the construction of roads, +as for working the diving-bell in making excavations which were intended +to be executed in the rocky parts of the bed of the Danube, with a view +to remove the obstacles that at present interrupt its entire navigation +by steam-boats. Dewar was delighted to see me--the sounds of my “How do +you do?” filled his eyes with tears, it appearing that I was the first +Englishman whom he had met so far down the Danube, where he had been +employed for nearly a twelvemonth. + +♦ THE PRIEST AND POET ♦ + +The poet now joined the circle, and having ordered his bottle of wine, +made himself as much at home amongst his new acquaintances as if he had +known them a hundred years. He treated the company to a history of his +travels, which he extended on this occasion to Grand Cairo. His audience +seemed at a loss to know where Grand Cairo was, until the priest +enlightened them by declaring that it was in Asia. “In Asia!” exclaimed +the Moldavian, with indescribable disdain; “no such thing; Grand Cairo +is in Africa.” The governor was in raptures at this decided triumph +over the clergyman, who, in order to restore his character, inveigled +the poet into a theological controversy. But to my surprise, and to the +great chagrin of the priest, and the boundless joy of the governor, the +Moldavian proved himself quite as well read in theology as he was in +geography: he repeatedly convicted the priest of entire ignorance of the +works with which he had pretended to be most familiar, and so merciless +was he in following up his conquest, by challenging the divine on the +more abstruse points of doctrine, that the latter literally felt obliged +to decamp from the field. The governor shouted with excessive mirth, and +ordered another bottle, which he compelled the poet to drink in addition +to his own. + +♦ SUPPER ♦ + +While this entertainment was going on, there came into the room a pretty +young woman, who seemed to be well known to all the party present. The +nondescript above mentioned turned out to be her husband, and Dewar +being her lodger, she had come to announce to them that their supper was +ready. Both appeared unwilling to go: it having been, however, conceded +on her part that they might return after supper, if they liked, the +three took their departure; but not before the governor exacted from the +lady a promise that she also would make her appearance again, and bring +with her her guitar. In the mean time I profited of the suggestion which +the idea of supper prompted to my mind, and laid waste a dish of stewed +chicken. The wine being, to me, at least undrinkable, I was obliged to +have recourse to sleigovitch and water. + +In less than half an hour the lady, the guitar, and her friends +joined our circle, followed by the priest, who, notwithstanding his +discomfiture, could not prevail on himself to stay away, and by two or +three very fine young men, whom I had not seen before. The instrument +having been tuned, our poet asked permission to look at it, and swept +his mutilated fingers over the strings with the skill of a professor. +The priest looked amazed. After preluding in a singularly graceful +manner, which captivated the Swinicheans, the tatterdemalion, clearing +his voice with a fresh bottle of wine, which was voted to him by common +accord, treated us to “Di tanti palpiti,” not only with great taste, but +in one of the best tenor voices I ever heard. The priest exclaimed that +he knew not what to think of this fellow, unless he was the devil, for +that not only were his talents and knowledge universal, but of a degree +of excellence in every thing that left him without a rival. + +♦ MUSICAL TREAT ♦ + +The lady was quite ashamed to touch the guitar after the poet; +nevertheless she was induced to favour the company with two or three +Wallachian songs, which, after the splendid performances we had just +heard, lost all the effect they might otherwise have produced. One of +the young men, jealous of the musical character of Swinich, next took up +the guitar, but after vexing the chords with a long series of humdrum +tinklings, which he would fain persuade us were Servian melodies, he was +reluctantly compelled, by the unanimous voice of the company, to resign +the instrument to our Mephistopheles, who showed himself, still more +even than before, a perfect master of the art, and that too of the very +best school. Italian, German, Hungarian, and Moldavian airs followed +each other in rapid succession, and in the most admirable style. The +fair owner of the guitar remarked, with a charming simplicity, that she +really did not know her own instrument in the hands of this enchanter. + +♦ THE MOLDAVIAN ♦ + +By this time our apartment was crowded. The door had been thrown open, +and was besieged by a numerous group of savage-looking figures, wrapped +in their cloaks and large hats, who stood staring in upon our musician, +as if they fully participated in the priest’s opinion of his unearthly +character. And in truth, when I looked at this Moldavian--remembered +how he had amused his companions on the deck of the steamer by his +anecdotes, his poetry, and his dramatic declamations; the variety of +information which he afforded to myself during the course of the day; +his undoubted acquaintance with many countries, though he sometimes +indulged in exaggeration on that subject; the wandering life he had led; +the offices, sometimes of trust, and responsibility, and peril, which +he had fulfilled; his various acquirements in science, history, and the +fine arts; and, to crown all, his musical powers, which were of the +very first order; and his ragged, unshaven, filthy appearance--I could +not help feeling that there was a mystery about him, such as perhaps +in a former age might have procured for him the dangerous honours of a +magician. + +♦ OUR ROOM ♦ + +The scene to which I had been thus suddenly transferred from our +fishing-boat, was altogether so strange and picturesque, that I much +regretted my inability to preserve it in the form of a sketch. It would +have been a congenial study for Wilkie.--The loosely-boarded floor over +our heads, with its rude joists; the ladder for ascending to it in the +corner, on which four or five chubby wondering urchins were perched; +the whitewashed walls; the two immense beds; the waxen images, and +the daubs of sacred subjects; the cherry-tree square table, the lamp +burning upon it amidst numerous bottles and glasses; the goodhumoured, +half-simpleton governor; the pompous captain; the shrimp who ruled the +quarantine; the toad of the custom-house, who, whenever the governor +laughed, always laughed still louder; the patriarchal-looking priest; +the gentle proprietress of the guitar, her English lodger, and her +unmeaning husband, who looked upon her as the paragon of perfection; the +three stars of Swinich, as those young men were called, because they +knew Latin; and then our Moldavian sorcerer, who, while he held the +guitar, presented in his own person so inexplicable a combination of +intellectual affluence with the most sordid external poverty; together +with the bandit-looking group locking in at the door--furnished a +picture of rustic life on the Danube, to which the pencil of Wilkie +alone could have done justice. + +♦ HOSPITABLE INVITATION ♦ + +I had engaged one of the two beds for the night, but as Dewar’s landlady +was the “lady patroness” of the village, and I for the moment a person +of no small distinction, an Englishman being looked upon as a kind of +god throughout all that country, she would not hear of my remaining +at the inn: she had in fact already prepared her own bed for me, as +Dewar laughingly said, and as a point of honour I could not refuse her +hospitality. As soon as our circle broke up, therefore, I proceeded with +my hostess and her husband, my countryman, and one of the three “stars,” +who happened to be her nephew, to her mansion. Ascending a large wooden +portico by a ladder, we all entered the bedchamber together, without any +ceremony: it was in fact the only room in the house, and served equally +as kitchen, dining-room, drawing-room, lumber-room, and dormitory. It +had the invaluable recommendation of cleanliness, notwithstanding the +variety of uses to which it was convertible; and the bed, moreover, to +which I was most graciously conducted, exhibited a variegated quilt, the +work of the lady’s own hands, and a pair of sheets fragrant as thyme, +and white as the falling snow. + +♦ TRIPLE-BEDDED ROOM ♦ + +As the night was cold I spread my cloak on the bed, but my hostess, +after seeking an explanation from Dewar of this precaution on my part, +which she felt as a kind of reflection on her household propriety, went +to a handsome wardrobe, which stood at one end of the room, from whose +ample stores she drew forth a new blanket, the produce, also, of her +own industry, and substituted it for my cloak, which she folded up and +put by on a chair. In addition to the bed assigned to me there were +two others in the apartment, one large enough to accommodate at least +half-a-dozen men, and a small temporary pallet, which the presiding +genius of the place had arranged on chairs for her own use. + +♦ LATIN HARANGUE ♦ + +I was very well inclined to form a more intimate acquaintance with my +neat nocturnal repository, the more especially as I had not enjoyed such +a luxury for a whole week; but unfortunately my landlady’s learned +nephew conceived, that it was his duty to entertain me with a long +harangue in Latin upon the various branches of knowledge of which he +was master, interspersing the more abstruse parts of his oration with +Hungarian songs, accompanied by himself on the guitar. I of course +listened to his address with all the gravity I could command, until +taking advantage of a momentary absence of our hostess, I slipped +quietly into bed. My friend had by that time arrived at the botanical +department of his lecture, which completely closed the curtains of my +memory for the night. + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + Domestic arrangements--Count Szechenyi--Milanosch--Works on + the Danube--Picture of industry--Auberge--Vedran’s cave--Rocky + scenery--Arrival at Orsova--My chamber and its ornaments--Bedroom + utensils--Hungarian civilization--Quarantine adventure--Dinner at + Count Szechenyi’s--Plans for the navigation of the Danube--Origin + of the enterprise. + + +By seven o’clock on the following morning (October 1), I beheld the +three male members of the family emerging from their spacious couch, +while our hostess was busily engaged in preparing coffee for breakfast. +My toilet was speedily despatched, and a loaf of capital brown bread, +a brace of new-laid eggs, and a bowl of coffee, pretty well prepared +me for the toils of the coming day. Dewar had taught his kind landlady +English. + +♦ DOMESTIC ARRANGEMENTS ♦ + +She was already as far advanced as “Good morning;” but, by some fatality +or another, she constantly metamorphosed “Mr. Dewar,” into “My Dear;” +which had a droll effect, especially in the presence of her goodnatured +husband, who was as ignorant of the meaning of the expression as +herself. The reader must not draw any scandalous conclusion from this +habitual mistake, for Dewar, a very honest and honourable fellow, in +his way, assured me that his pupil was, in every sense of the word, a +pattern of domestic virtue. He added, that it was the general custom +throughout that part of the country, to have only one sleeping-room for +all the family, as well as their guests; and that this apparent laxity +of discipline, caused by the necessity of the case, produced a sort of +chivalrous feeling, which condemned to the deepest infamy any person +guilty of the slightest disrespect towards the conjugal relations. +He seemed strongly attached, not only to the family with which he +resided, but to the people in general, amongst whom he was pursuing his +avocations; he had never experienced so much friendship, he said, in +any part of the world, as they showed him on every possible occasion; +and nothing, he added, but the pleasure which he derived from that +circumstance, could have induced him to remain where he was. + +♦ COUNT SZECHENYI ♦ + +Dewar spoke also of the Count Szechenyi, in the most enthusiastic terms, +describing him as a Hungarian magnate of ample fortune, who devoted +himself exclusively to the regeneration of his country. It was with the +sole view of collecting information, which he might afterwards apply +to her benefit, that he had frequently visited England, France, and +other parts of Europe. He was in the bloom of life; had served in the +army; was a leading member of the diet, over which his talents, his +superior acquirements, and his disinterested patriotism, gave him great +influence; was constantly occupied in designing plans for the welfare of +Hungary; remained a batchelor, in order that he might be more at liberty +to travel about for the purpose of carrying those plans into execution; +and was now actively engaged in superintending the works going on upon +the Danube, which were entirely the result of his public spirit, and +his indefatigable perseverance. I was delighted to hear that I should +probably meet the Count at Orsova, where he possessed a temporary +residence. + +♦ MILANOSCH ♦ + +The boat, which had arrived in due time at Swinich, having been +announced as ready for departure, I walked down towards the river-side, +after making, through “My Dear,” a small present to our amiable hostess. +But I had not proceeded many steps, when I was joined by her ladyship, +dressed out in her holiday costume, including a gay silk cloak, after +the London fashion, accompanied by her husband and her nephews, also +in their best attire. They could not think, Dewar said, of allowing +me to embark without accompanying me to the latest moment; and so we +all proceeded together through the village. I was touched by their +kind attentions, and felt that if I were a little longer among this +simple-hearted, affectionate people, like Dewar, I should have cordially +esteemed them. Our boat put away amidst their repeated adieus; Dewar +looked quite downcast: nor did they quit the river-side as long as they +could see my bark, which a bend in the river at length shut out from +their view. + +♦ WORKS ON THE DANUBE ♦ + +It was a lowering morning: but the neighbouring hills lifting their +green heads above the surrounding vapours, seemed to promise a fine +day. The new Servian village of Milanosch, on the right bank, nearly +opposite to Swinich, looked picturesque through the veil of clouds in +which it was arrayed. A rock on our left, that jutted boldly into the +river, was crowned by the ruins of three massive round towers, which +presented a striking resemblance to as many enormous sacks of corn. The +Danube still preserved its course between ranges of lofty hills, wooded, +and piled behind each other; some hooded in mist; while the summits and +slopes of the higher ridges shone out in the beams of the morning sun. +As we advanced, the green hills yielded to lofty and precipitous rocks, +which rose from the waterside in a perpendicular direction, sometimes +like ramparts, sometimes like huge columns of Cyclopean construction. +Labourers were busily employed in blowing up these masses, whose +detonations resounded far and wide, among the mountains. + +♦ PICTURE OF INDUSTRY ♦ + +Being desirous of witnessing more closely the mode in which the men +carried on their operations, I directed our patron to put me ashore, +where all seemed animation and industry. The noise of the mallet and +punch, the pickaxe and chisel, was heard in all directions. Where the +rock was perpendicular to the river, a roadway was excavated through +it only to the height of eighteen or twenty feet, leaving the upper +strata undisturbed. I confess I did not enter some of these causeways, +magnificent though they were, without feeling that if any of the +tremendous piles, which rose in most irregular array above my head, had +been loosened by the explosions going on on all sides, and had obeyed a +locomotive fancy, I might have been reduced to powder with the greatest +possible expedition. Where the face of the rock slanted rapidly from +the river, the labour of excavation was comparatively limited. In those +occasional ravines which sunk beneath the general level of the road, +bridges or terraces were erected in a solid and, at the same time, an +ornamental style, which reminded me of old Roman enterprise. + +A whole village of wooden huts occupied a glen, in which the families +of the artisans and workmen, and the officers superintending the +operations on the part of the Austrian government were located. Every +body seemed employed--washing, drying linen, spinning wool, weaving, +preparing meat, fowls, vegetables for dinner, baking bread, scouring +furniture, or building additional habitations. I was delighted by this +lively picture of industry, so little resembling any thing I had seen +since my departure from Vienna. An immense eagle, which had been shot +the day before, was displayed upon a post, with his wings extended; +measuring, from tip to tip, full seven feet. Two other eagles were on +a perch, to which they were chained. One of these expanding his noble +wings, looked up wistfully and proudly at the mountains above him, as if +to say, “There is my native and proper home--behold, I have the means of +ascending thither, but am without any crime detained here a prisoner.” +They were truly regal birds. I should have very much preferred to have +seen them soaring in the clouds; never, I think, having felt before with +so much acuteness the extent of that injustice of which men are guilty, +when they destroy or fetter, without any useful purpose, the most +beautiful specimens of creation. + +♦ AUBERGE ♦ + +One of the Austrian officers, who spoke French, very civilly conducted +me over the works, and introduced me to the auberge of the colony, which +occupied a large natural cavern in the rock. The roof of the cave was +curiously composed of several slabs which met in the centre, springing, +like the parts of an artificial arch, from the circumference. This solid +construction seemed absolutely necessary to sustain the pile of rocks, +which, above the cavern, towered into the heavens, tossed into all sorts +of fantastic shapes, and threatening every moment to overwhelm the busy +people at their feet, who, as compared with them, looked like so many +insects. + +♦ VEDRAN’S CAVE ♦ + +The masses on the opposite side of the river seemed to have been thrown +into similar confusion, some shooting upwards as straight as an arrow, +some in a sloping, others in a horizontal position. Wherever I looked +around me, it appeared as if I had found a mystic portion of the globe, +which, like the face of Satan, “deep scars of thunder had intrenched;” +where Chaos still held her reign, and none save the Titans of elder +time could hope to dwell in security. But my terrors were reproved by +some young saplings which burst forth from amidst the rocks, spreading +their graceful branches in the air. Here and there a wild flower, too, +displayed its blue or coral bell; the bee murmured quietly along, the +sparrow twittered, the yellow butterfly wandered about, and the spider +floated by in his gossamer balloon. + +♦ ROCKY SCENERY ♦ + +By this time my Moldavian and Servian friends had joined me, and pointed +out a path by the river-side leading to a very remarkable cave, which +had been converted into an impregnable fortification by the Austrian +General Vedran, during the last war of the emperor against the Turks. +He greatly enlarged the original cavern, which was a natural one, by +burning the stone and then throwing water upon it, when it easily came +away as lime. The cavity was divided into several apartments, one of +which was the general’s room, another the powder-magazine, a third was +for provisions, and a fourth ample enough to afford accommodation to +at least a thousand men. The ruins still remain of the redoubts which +had been thrown up in front of this cavern during the war. We found +several names of the brave soldiers who had occupied this singular +garrison cut in the walls of the cavern inside; among them that of the +chivalrous Vedran himself, who is said to have sustained his position in +the presence of a whole host of artillery brought to bear against him +from the opposite bank of the Danube. While we were within the cavern, +a series of explosions followed each other in rapid and regular order, +so strongly resembling the fire of contending armies, that one might +without any difficulty have imagined that the war between the crescent +and the cross had not yet concluded. + +♦ ORSOVA ♦ + +Returning to our bark we still moved on amidst scenery of the most +magnificent character, formed by gigantic rocks disposed in the most +irregular manner, exhibiting an infinite variety of shapes, strange and +sometimes terrific in their appearance, such as might meetly combine for +the creation of a region of enchantment. On the summit of one of these +craggy mountains an immense isolated pile, bleached by the winds and +rains of many a winter, looked precisely like a Druidical chapel. The +dry bed of a torrent led from the river-side along the heights towards +the temple, and groups of hooded pilgrims were seen winding their way +upwards at each side of the channel in regular procession, while here +and there scattered figures were emerging from among green shrubs, bound +for the same destination. But temple, penitents and all seemed as if +they had been miraculously petrified in the midst of the solemnities in +which they were engaged. + +♦ ORSOVA ♦ + +About three o’clock in the afternoon we reluctantly bade adieu to these +magical regions of the Danube, and came in sight of Orsova, which, with +its neat white houses, its church and spire, looked extremely well at a +distance. Several Servian fishing-boats were moored near the opposite +bank. On landing at Orsova we were met by Mr. Popovicz, the agent of +the Steam Navigation Company, and four or five gentlemen, amongst whom +I soon distinguished, from the respect that was paid to him, the Count +Szechenyi. He very kindly inquired of me, in excellent English, what +sort of a voyage we had had; adding, that he feared it must have been an +unpleasant one in many respects. I frankly answered that I had not found +it at all so. Although we had certainly been detained beyond our time, +nevertheless I had been prepared, in truth, considering the novelty and +difficulties of the enterprise, for much greater inconvenience than I +had actually met with. The Count seemed much gratified that I had made +allowance for the incompleteness of the undertaking, and engaged me +to dine with him on the following day at two o’clock, after which, he +said, he would take me in his carriage to Gladova, where the steam-boat +was waiting. He added that it was his intention to proceed as far as +Rutchstuk, and that he would be happy to have my company on the voyage. +As the Count, with his friends, was stepping into a boat to cross the +river, in order to pay his respects to Prince Milosch, the Prince of +Servia, who was expected to arrive in the course of the evening at the +opposite village (also called Orsova), he directed his groom, who spoke +English, to see me to the inn, and to take care that I should be well +attended to in every respect. + +♦ MY CHAMBER ♦ + +It will be easily believed that these very friendly attentions on the +part of an individual, whom I had never seen before, made a strong +impression on my feelings; the more especially, as the sincere and +cordial tone in which the Count expressed himself, was rendered still +more engaging by that perfect simplicity of manner which bespeaks at +once the man of the world. The hotel to which his servant conducted +me was a very decent one. I dined satisfactorily on stewed fowl, +a favourite dish, it seems, in that country, and although my room +was quite primeval in its appearance and furniture, my bed was +unobjectionable. + +♦ BEDROOM UTENSILS ♦ + +Early the next morning (October 2), the Count sent to inform me, that +as the carriages and other portions of the steam-boat cargo destined +for the lower towns on the Danube had not yet arrived from Moldava, +we should not quit Orsova till the following day. I had, therefore, +ample time to survey my new “domain.” My chamber consisted of four very +plain whitewashed walls, on the ground-floor, looking through a window +which could boast neither of curtain, blind, or shutter, into a large +courtyard, at the back of the inn. The floor was of deal plank, loosely +put together, and unhonoured by rug, mat, or carpet, of any description. +A looking-glass, hoary with age, and cobwebbed, was suspended in the +oldfashioned slanting position, between two coloured old Jack Tar prints +of Juno in her car, drawn by swans, with a rainbow in the distance, and +of Cybele in her chariot, to which a lion and a panther were yoked. +Beneath the wheels a rabbit, a rat, and a mouse, were gambolling; and +behind her a great camel was star-gazing. Her ladyship was about to +drive over a pyramid. An oldfashioned German stove, a large, deal, +square table, three leather-cushioned chairs, the backs and seats of +which were bound together by great bands of iron, a rough, square +washhand-stand, in which there was a baking-dish for a basin, completed +the decorations. The door was large enough, in every way, to admit a +horse, and the planks of which it was composed appeared so hostile to +any thing like coalition, that the daylight played through every part of +it. + +I asked for some warm water to shave with. The waiter brought it to me +_in a dinner-plate_! I could not help laughing at this extraordinary +novelty, and he then brought me the kettle. + +♦ HUNGARIAN CIVILIZATION ♦ + +I compromised the matter at last for a tumbler, which was rather an +improvement on the steam-boat, where I never could succeed in getting +hot water except in a tea-pot! Another un-nameable utensil seems rather +scarce in those parts. The only one of which the steam-boat could boast +was used for keeping pickles! + +This reminds me of an anecdote which the Count tells with the most +ludicrous effect, as a proof of the barbarism in which his country is +yet enveloped. An old lady, a friend of his, received a present of +porcelain from England, including cups, saucers, plates, dishes, and +basins of every kind, among the rest a bidet. When the latter article +was examined nobody belonging to her household could at all make out +for what purpose it was destined; but as it was a handsome piece of +manufacture they were resolved that it should not be thrown by in a +corner. One day the good dame invited, as the custom is in Hungary, a +very large party to dinner, at which the Count and some other noblemen +who had visited foreign countries were present. To the ordinary luxuries +of the table was added a roast pig, which, to the great amusement of the +civilized part of the company, was served up in the bidet! + +♦ QUARANTINE ADVENTURE ♦ + +After breakfasting on coffee and some remarkably fine grapes, I walked +out to explore the beauties of Orsova, and as fate would have it, my +steps were in the first instance directed to the mart, where, under +a shed divided by a partition breast high, the business of traffic +was carried on between the Hungarians and the Servians, neither being +allowed by the laws of quarantine to come in contact with the other. +Even the money which passed from the Servian side was taken in a pair +of tongs, and steeped in a cup of vinegar before it reached a Hungarian +pocket. From the mart I passed on, apparently without having attracted +the attention of the guard, but when I had gone to a distance of about +five hundred yards, walking along the bank of the Danube, a soldier +armed with his firelock, with fixed bayonet, was despatched after me. +Assuming, for what reason I know not, that I had belonged to the Servian +party, he ordered me back, keeping however as wide as possible of his +game. I went up to inquire the reason of his interference with my +perambulations, but he pointed his bayonet in a way not to be mistaken, +which only augmented my surprise. Upon returning to the guardhouse, +my friend, assisted by his officer, endeavoured to make me understand +that I must take my place among the Servians, whereupon the Jew who +happened to come into the mart, explained their error, and I acquired my +liberty. Had they succeeded, by their blundering, in compelling me to +pass the quarantine boundary, I should have had to spend ten days in the +Lazaretto at Orsova before I could proceed further on my journey. + +♦ DINNER AT COUNT SZECHENYI’S ♦ + +At two o’clock I went to dine with the Count. A rude sort of a gate +opened to a courtyard through which I passed to a staircase, or rather +a wide step-ladder, and so on to a gallery leading to a suite of rooms +genteelly furnished. On the table in the Count’s sitting apartment I +recognised as old friends the _Edinburgh_ and _Quarterly Reviews_, +several of our “Annuals,” and other English and French periodical +publications. Besides the Count, a Hungarian magnate of considerable +property, was present, who coincides in most of the prudent views which +the Count entertains with reference to the civilization of Hungary. Mr. +Popovicz was also of the party, as well as a sensible young barrister +from Pesth, named Tasner, who accompanied the Count as his secretary. +We had an excellent dinner of vermicelli soup, bouilli, haricot mutton, +beef ragout, roast fowl, and pudding, followed by a dessert of sweet +cake and grapes. The wines were champagne and the ordinary white vintage +of the country, the best I had yet tasted in Hungary. Our conversation +at dinner turned chiefly on the enterprise in which the Count was +engaged, and in which all his faculties seemed to have been absorbed. + +♦ NAVIGATION OF THE DANUBE ♦ + +I collected from what was said that it was intended to construct a +road wide enough for carriages, along the whole of the left bank of +the Danube, and that canals were to be formed in the rapids and other +rocky passages, where the river was liable to be reduced much below its +ordinary level during the summer and autumn. These works necessarily +required a large expenditure, which the returns of the Steam Navigation +Company were not expected to repay. The Austrian government, therefore, +actuated by an impulse of public spirit which it too rarely acknowledges +on other subjects, has taken upon itself the entire outlay which these +undertakings will require, and has, moreover, with peculiar propriety, +intrusted to Count Szechenyi the superintendence of the whole, as well +as an unlimited supply of funds, for which he accounts directly to +the emperor. It is especially understood that a certain per centage +is secured by the Austrian government to the navigation company upon +its capital, provided the returns should fall below a stated amount: +in point of fact the returns have for some time exceeded the amount +agreed upon, so that the government is not likely to have any further +responsibility in that respect. + +♦ ORIGIN OF THE ENTERPRISE ♦ + +The enterprise was originated by the Count, who, at an early period +of his life (he is at present about forty-four years of age), plainly +perceived the great advantages that would accrue to Hungary, if it +were rendered navigable for steam-boats to the Black Sea. Adopting the +English system for procuring a large capital in small shares, he formed +a list of subscribers at Presburg, consisting of magnates, members of +the lower chamber of the diet, bankers, and merchants, which he brought +over to this country. Here, also, he obtained a few distinguished +names, and made himself master of all the details of steam navigation. +Having ordered the engines for three boats to be sent from Birmingham +to Trieste, he had the vessels built in that port, and then a petition +was presented to the diet, on behalf of the subscribers, praying its +sanction to the undertaking. This was the first instance in which the +diet was called upon to take into its consideration a measure peculiar +to Hungary in its national character, and involving, therefore, +consequences of vast political as well as commercial tendency. If the +diet took this enterprise under its auspices, the popularity and the +sense of independence which the assembly would thus acquire, might +lead to other measures still more conducive to the re-establishment +of the Hungarian nation. Prince Metternich immediately sent for Count +Szechenyi, whose brother is married to a sister of the prince’s wife, +and sought explanations of this treasonable proceeding! The Count’s +answer was very simple and unequivocal.--“If you have no wish that the +diet should adopt the petition and act upon it, do the thing yourselves, +for the Danube at all events cannot be long without steam-boats.” The +hint was taken, the petition was cushioned, the plans of the Count were +not only accepted but improved upon a most magnificent scale, and given +back to himself for execution. The Count is the most distinguished +leader of the opposition party in the diet, but he took care to have +it thoroughly understood, that though, for the benefit of Hungary, he +charged himself with the commission offered to him by Prince Metternich, +he was still free to follow up his political principles in every way +that he thought advantageous to his country. + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + Hungarian reforms--Security of property--Orders of nobility--Advantages + of steam navigation--Reformers--Auxiliary improvements--Club-house-- + Newspaper--System of Entails--Censorship--Sybaritism--The Count’s + pursuits--Hungarian language--Verses on the vintage. + + +♦ HUNGARIAN REFORMS ♦ + +After coffee we rose from the table, and the Count and I walked to the +Lazaretto, a clean, airy building, about a mile from Orsova. As he +was about to go to Bucharest, and on his return from Wallachia would +be obliged to perform quarantine in that edifice, he was desirous of +examining the apartments which he was destined to occupy. We found the +establishment in excellent order, clean, healthy, and very pleasantly +situated. The wife of its medical superintendent was one of the most +beautiful women I had ever beheld. She was sitting alone at a window, +melancholy as if she were a captive, and indeed, as she observed to the +Count, how could she be otherwise, exiled as she was in this solitude +from every chance of society? She was pale and downcast; her voice came +in touching tones from her heart; and though she brightened up for a +while, while we were speaking to her at the casement, the too bright +lustre of her black eyes indicated that her health was deeply undermined +by consumption. She spoke French very well, and the Count informed +me that she was an intelligent and accomplished woman, but that the +solitude of the place had broken down her spirits. + +♦ SECURITY OF PROPERTY ♦ + +In the course of my stay at Orsova I had an opportunity of hearing from +three or four Hungarian noblemen, who were passing through on their way +to Pesth, that opinions differ very much with respect to the propriety +of giving education at present to the people, because, as the country is +still and must be for some years under the feudal system, if the people +were educated, they would see too plainly the position in which they +are placed, and would most probably seek to attain their liberties by +means of a sudden and sanguinary revolution. There is no objection to +their being properly educated as soon as they are fit for that stage +of improvement, and other things are brought up to its level. But it +would be necessary first to give knowledge to the nobles, with a view to +liberalize their minds, and through their instrumentality to bring about +gradually and safely the changes which may be deemed essential to the +welfare of the whole community. + +In the next place, the reformers are anxious to see security given to +the titles of those who acquire property by purchase. As the law now +stands, or rather in the absence of all law, if an individual buy an +estate, he may possess it for twenty years, and then somebody comes +with an old piece of parchment in his hand, who says that he has a +better right to the estate than the purchaser. Litigation immediately +commences--the suit goes on in the courts for years--and both parties +probably spend twice the value of the property in law proceedings before +the right of ownership is decided. Again, when an estate is announced +for sale, the next neighbour has a privilege of pre-emption. If the +property be purchased by another person, and it be discovered after +a lapse of thirty or even forty years that the slightest formality +was omitted in giving the next neighbour notice of the intended sale, +the privilege of pre-emption again accrues, and he may buy the land, +together with all the improvements bestowed upon it in the mean time, +for the price which the occupant had paid. This uncertainty about titles +to property is one of the greatest grievances of which Hungary has to +complain. + +♦ ORDERS OF NOBILITY ♦ + +The orders of the nobility also require limitation. At present the +classes of nobles are too numerous, and are becoming more so every day; +for, if a nobleman have fifty sons, they are all as noble as himself. In +some few of the higher families distinguished as magnates, _majorats_ +are established by prescription. Some families have as many as three +or four estates entailed upon each of the sons, and by this system +their paramount rank and influence has been sustained. But, generally +speaking, the estate of a nobleman of the second and inferior classes +is divided, upon his death, amongst all his sons; the result of which +division is to produce a swarm of pauper nobles, by whom the country is +literally infested. This indiscriminate descent of title and perpetual +subdivision of property, if not corrected in time, must eventually throw +the whole fabric of society into confusion; or rather, they must prevent +that fabric from ever being settled upon a safe foundation. These two +evils cry aloud for amendment. + +♦ ADVANTAGES OF STEAM NAVIGATION ♦ + +Another very serious grievance is, that the laws and law proceedings +are all framed in the Latin language, which prevents the language of +Hungary, in itself a copious and most expressive dialect, from acquiring +all the perfection of which it is susceptible. Some years ago the +members of the diet all spoke in Latin. Count Szechenyi was the first +to address the assembly in Hungarian, and most of the better informed +magnates have since followed his example. + +Hungary will undoubtedly derive great commercial advantages from the +steam navigation of the Danube: but, although enlightened men are +not indifferent to that result, yet they look upon the enterprise +rather with the hope of seeing their country derive from it a European +position. When the people come more in contact with foreign nations, +their emulation will be naturally excited; they will be induced to +improve their roads, to build bridges, to excavate canals, to improve +their towns, to give a style to their houses and public edifices, and to +civilize their manners. + +♦ REFORMERS ♦ + +These are the views of prudent and thorough reformers, who, avoiding the +ordinary clash of interests and prejudices, work upon a comprehensive +plan, more for the future than the present, and addressed to the +improving intelligence, not to the passions, of the people. To check +every impulse that would lead to precipitate changes, which could only +be brought about by the effusion of blood, and to prepare the minds of +men by a slow but indefeasible process for the blessings of rational +freedom, are the leading principles of their policy. The Austrian +government perceives this clearly, and although Prince Metternich fears +the reformers, there are no men in the imperial dominions for whom +he entertains a higher respect. Such men indeed are amenable to no +government jealousies--each in his own sphere is a _fate_ that overrules +them. + +♦ AUXILIARY IMPROVEMENTS ♦ + +While from their familiar acquaintance with the institutions of most of +the countries of Europe, especially with those of England, which they +admire almost to idolatry, the reformers plainly see, and lament, the +numerous deficiencies by which Hungary is still detained in the back +ground of civilization; nevertheless, they are thoroughly convinced that +fundamental changes must be the work of time, if they are to be useful +and permanent. They are perfectly conversant with the character of their +countrymen: allow for their ignorance and their prejudices; which, +however, they never lose an opportunity of rebuking, when they can do so +with effect, and without giving personal offence. They listen calmly to +objections, from whatever quarter they proceed; weigh them patiently; +admit them for what they are worth; and profit by them, if they can, in +their further proceedings. If an obstacle cannot be conquered this year, +they are contented to wait until the principle makes further progress, +and a more favourable opportunity may arrive for further consideration. +Several influential magnates in the diet are disposed to coincide +in these opinions: they are, certainly, resolved on some important +alterations; but they will not attempt to carry them into effect until +Hungary shall be better prepared for them than it is at this moment. + +♦ CLUB-HOUSE ♦ + +In the mean time, all practicable measures of an _auxiliary_ nature are +in progress. For instance, a club has been established at Pesth, upon +the London system; of which all the magnates, most of the deputies, +and of those whom we would call the principal gentry, are members. They +assemble frequently in groups, and freely discuss political topics +at their club-house, which they call the National Casino. The very +epithet, “national,” is not without its spell upon these conversations. +The English, German, and French reviews, magazines, and newspapers, +and popular publications of every description, are found in their +reading-room: they have also lectures on the sciences and fine arts; +and are thus beginning to Europeanize their minds. Some time after +this club had been established, Prince Metternich of course turned his +attention to it, and felt no small alarm, when he perceived its natural +tendency. He required an explanation of its purposes from the Count +Szechenyi; and upon hearing him, decided that it required control. “If +you wish to control it,” rejoined the Count, “the only way to accomplish +your object, is to give us a good subscription, and become one of our +members. You will then have a vote, and your personal influence will, no +doubt, have its due effect.” The prince took the hint, and joined the +club, which is now in a flourishing condition. + +♦ NEWSPAPERS ♦ + +Another of the _auxiliary_ measures of the reformers so characteristic +of their admirable sagacity and forecast, as well as of the prejudices +of the Hungarian nobility, which they have to contend against, is the +proposed bridge across the Danube, to connect Pesth with Buda, which I +have already mentioned. The steam navigation of the Danube will also be +a most powerful instrument of civilization; for it is quite true that +steam and civilization are daily becoming almost convertible terms. +Wherever one of these is found, the other cannot be far distant. A +newspaper also is published at Pesth, and that, too, in the Hungarian +language--a prodigious innovation, and one that promises important +consequences; for there is no _law_ of censorship in Hungary; and it +is not very likely that the diet will sanction any proposition of the +kind. There is, besides, an academy at Pesth, somewhat on the plan of +the French Institute, which publishes its transactions and papers in a +quarterly journal. To that journal, as well as to the newspaper, the +reformers frequently contribute articles, written generally for the +purpose of correcting some national prejudice, or inculcating some +wholesome principle of legislation. These articles they sign with +their names, as they are determined to carry on all their plans of +improvement in the face of day, and upon the system, of keeping “within +the law,” which they perfectly well understand. + +♦ SYSTEM OF ENTAILS ♦ + +Count Szechenyi has written two very elaborate and able works, one on +credit, with the view of doing away altogether the system of entails, +in those cases where the life-owner of an estate chooses to borrow +sums of money upon its security. In such cases, the writer contends, +that if the loan be not repaid before the death of the mortgagor, +the mortgagee should be at liberty to sell so much of the estate as +may be sufficient to meet the debt. The evils which grow out of the +present system in Hungary are enormous, as the nobles retain so much of +the old feudal influence that they borrow money in the most reckless +manner; and having no more than a life interest to pledge for the +funds so acquired, the creditor is often defrauded of his just demand. +If the whole estate were liable to it, the younger children would be +interested in checking the wild extravagance which now prevails in most +of the higher noble families of Hungary; and they would themselves +learn betimes the value of economy, without which they never can be +truly independent. The Count’s second work is of a more miscellaneous +character--it discusses the various reforms of which Hungary stands +in need, with a view to the amelioration of its institutions, the +construction of roads, bridges, and canals. He shows, from a careful +survey, that the interior of the country super-abounds in natural +wealth, which only requires practicable communications with the +frontiers, in order to convert it into gold. + +♦ CENSORSHIP ♦ + +The manner in which one of these books found its way to the light is +worth mentioning. The Count, by way of precaution, although he was +aware of there being no _legal_ censorship in Hungary, submitted his +work to the censor appointed by the Austrian government. The censor in +the first instance licensed the publication; but while it was going +through the press, the eleventh sheet having been already printed, an +order was issued putting a stop to its further progress. By some means +or other the sheets which were printed, together with the remainder of +the manuscript, found their way to Leipsic, and back again to Pesth in +the shape of a neatly printed volume, of which a thousand copies were +sold before the government knew of its arrival! Previously to that event +the Count sought in vain for an explanation of the reasons upon which +the licence had been withdrawn; but when the book could no longer be +suppressed, apology after apology was made for the stupid blunder of +some of the authorities, which alone had been the cause of the delay! +Inquiry was made as to the particular officer who had issued the order, +but no such officer could be found, no such order was in existence, +and the mystery attending the prohibition of the work became just as +difficult to be solved as that of its publication. + +Another Hungarian magnate had written and printed at Pesth a very strong +tract indeed in favour of reform. But it could only be purchased at +Bucharest, whence it returned, as if upon the “viewless winds,” whenever +it was ordered. These transactions led to the settlement of the fact, +that there was no _law_ authorizing a censorship in Hungary, and the +first offspring of this advance in knowledge was the establishment of a +newspaper. Other newspapers doubtless will follow, and as there are an +English manufacturer of paper at Pesth, and a type-foundry upon the most +improved system, the press will, in due time, accomplish its wonders in +that region. + +♦ SYBARITISM ♦ + +If the diet could be induced to take upon itself the whole of the +expenses required for improving the navigation of the Danube, such an +act would be a virtual declaration of independence. I have no doubt +that this measure will be soon adopted, and that the day is not distant +when the crowns of Austria and Hungary must be separated. There is at +present no indisposition in Hungary to accept a king from the imperial +family--but he must fix his residence at Pesth, and be contented to rule +under the control of the ancient constitution of the country, which +requires very few alterations in order to accommodate its provisions to +the modern condition of society. + +♦ THE COUNT’S PURSUITS ♦ + +Count Szechenyi was so good as to translate for me one or two of his +articles in the Pesth newspaper, the principal object of which was to +reprove and correct the very general disposition of his countrymen to +Sybaritism. They are in general, like the Germans, fond of the pleasures +of the table, and extremely indolent. His style of writing is piquant +and goodhumoured, wholly free from pedantry, and his admonitions, which +are pregnant with good sense, are conveyed in a friendly and even +parental tone, which shows how deeply this excellent man has the welfare +of his native land at heart. Personal ambition appeared to me to have +no share in his motives of action; they seem to spring exclusively from +a fervent, I might almost say, a romantic affection for his country. He +loves Hungary as a youth loves the first mistress of his heart; indeed +he familiarly calls his country his “wife,” and he looks upon all its +inhabitants as his children. He is perfectly aware that nations never +profit by historical experience, that they must purchase it by a series +of trials for themselves; at the same time he labours incessantly by +his writings to diffuse amongst his countrymen the ample treasures of +information which he has collected during his travels and a regular +course of study directed entirely towards that object. + +The Count, as I have said, is now in the bloom of life, yet I regret +to add that his health is occasionally interrupted, I sincerely trust +not yet undermined, by some inexplicable derangement of the digestive +organs. When not affected particularly by this malady, which is of a +periodical character, he appears to be a vigorous, strongbodied, active, +indefatigable, country gentleman; fond of rural sports in the season; a +capital shot, and an excellent horseman. He is of the middle stature, of +a good military figure, and a most intelligent and engaging countenance. + + +His manners are those of a perfectly well-bred gentleman: indeed if he +had not spoken English with somewhat of a foreign accent, I should have +easily mistaken him for one of my own countrymen, of that class who, +from talent and information, combined with high birth, possess influence +in the House of Commons. + +♦ HUNGARIAN LANGUAGE ♦ + +Speaking of the Hungarian language he observed, that in his opinion, +its roots were Turkish. It was an extremely difficult language for a +foreigner to learn; but at the same time, peculiarly calculated for the +expression of noble thoughts, as well as for the familiar purposes of +society. By his writings, which are all in Hungarian, he has given the +tone on that subject, in consequence of the eminent station which he +holds from birth and property--and from being also the most popular man +in the kingdom. He showed me an “Annual,” with very good embellishments, +and one or two other books, which were printed at Pesth, in a style of +typography not excelled in any other country. + +♦ VERSES ON THE VINTAGE ♦ + +The remarks of the Count upon the Sybaritism of his countrymen, induced +me to copy, upon returning to my hotel, the following Latin verses, +on the vintage, which I found in the Pesth newspaper of the 28th of +September, entitled “Gemeinnubige Blatter.” + + + _Dithyrambus in Vindemia horna._ + + Gaudeamus igitur, + Hungari dum sumus! + Nam dant vinum copiosum + Jam in uvis gloriosum + Almus sol et humus. + + Cælitus vindemia + Tollit vinitores: + “Vinum vetus ebibemus; + Horno locum præparemus” + Clamant potatores. + + Semiusti clausimus + Spatium æstatis; + Sed autumnus restaurabit + Debiles et Bacchus dabit + Novam vim prostratis. + + Gaudeamus igitur, + Hungari dum sumus, + Vino patrio et more, + Jubilantes uno ore, + Cætera sunt fumus. + + _Fr. Hanak, Dr._ + + + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + First appearance of Wallachia--The Iron Door--Reform of the Hungarian + representation--Corporations--Finances--Education--Justice--Wallachian + Gladova--Servian Gladova--Trajan’s bridge--Navigable stations on the + Danube--Wonders of steam--Speech of Prince Milosch--Neighbourhood of + Gladova--Wallachian hut--Matrimonial speculation--Tea-drinking--Music-- + Charms of procrastination--Departure from Gladova--Bends in the + Danube--Approach to Vidin--Magnate’s costume--Visit to Hussein + Pacha--The pacha’s deputy--An interpreter--Explanations--Pleasures of + disguise. + +♦ APPEARANCE OF WALLACHIA ♦ + +Count Szechenyi had already apprized me of his intention to go down +the Danube as far as Rutschuk. As we were preparing, on the following +morning (October 3), to set out from Orsova, he added, that his object +was to land at Giurgeva, a Wallachian town, nearly opposite Rutschuk, +and thence to proceed to Bucharest, in order to obtain the sanction of +the hospodar, for the improvements which were meditated in the bed and +on the banks of the river within his principality. I took my seat with +the Count in his phaeton, and we were followed by another carriage, +occupied by his secretary, Mr. Tasner. Our road by the side of the river +was scarcely practicable for such vehicles, as frequently we had to +be drawn over narrow abrupt rocks, which, sloping towards the Danube, +afforded the agreeable prospect of a cold bath, as well as of fractured +limbs, in case of a break down. In an hour after quitting Orsova we +passed the frontier of Wallachia, where, if we were to Judge from first +appearances, misery seemed to have taken up her favourite abode. The +cabins of the poor people were constructed of hurdles, not defended, +even by the addition of mud on the inside, from wind and rain. Crowds of +children appeared at the doors, literally naked, in company with pigs +and goats, dogs, cocks and hens, and ducks, as if all were of the same +order of existence. Some of these wretched habitations were altogether +underground. + +♦ THE IRON DOOR ♦ + +We soon arrived at the commencement of the celebrated “Iron Door” +of the Danube. It is a series of rapids so called from the extreme +difficulty of passing them, and also probably from the almost +impenetrable nature and ferruginous colour of the rocks, which form the +entire bed of the river to the distance of nearly three miles. These +rocks, though so long washed by the torrent are still as rough as when +the river first found or forced its way amongst them. They are in large +masses, tumbled about in every sort of shape and position, and now that +they were completely exposed to view, in consequence of the depression +of the river, they looked terrific; the gaping jaws, as it were, of some +infernal monster. When the Danube is at its ordinary height, replenished +by its usual tributaries, the roar of its waters in hurrying through the +“Iron Door,” is borne on the winds for many miles around, like the sound +of continued peals of thunder. + +The present state of the river was taken advantage of by the engineers, +for the purpose of making an accurate survey of the channel. This is +another of the passages in which it will be necessary either to excavate +a canal in the bosom of the rocks, or to erect one upon them which +might be fed from the springs of the neighbouring heights. + +♦ HUNGARIAN REPRESENTATION ♦ + +I had noticed on the Servian bank, opposite Vedran’s Cave, a tablet cut +in the face of the rock, with an inscription upon it which seemed to +be in good preservation, though we were not near enough to read it. It +records, as the Count informed me, the completion of a line of road on +that side of the river, cut through the solid rock by order of Trajan, +of which a considerable portion still remains visible as far as the Iron +Door. + +Though reminded occasionally by jolts which threatened the entire +dissolution of our carriage, that we were traversing no Roman road, +I had every reason to hope that a few years would bring about great +changes in Hungary, in that respect. As to the other reforms in +contemplation, I believe there is no objection to the nomination by the +sovereign of the high sheriffs for the fifty counties, of which Hungary, +including Croatia, is composed, the more especially as in each of the +counties two under-sheriffs are selected by the nobles. But the state +of the representation stands greatly in need of amendment. At present +each of the counties sends to the diet two deputies, who are chosen by +the nobles, comprehending under that title all persons who are descended +from noble families. There are besides, eighteen chapters of cathedrals +which return two deputies for each, and fifty free towns, each of which +returns also its two members. But the representatives of the chapters +and the free towns have no vote in the lower chamber of the diet, they +have only the privilege of delivering their opinions upon any measure +under discussion. It is obvious that this difference between the powers +of the several classes of deputies must be speedily done away. + +Again, if a magnate, who is called to the diet by the king’s letter, +cannot attend, he sends an individual as his proxy; but this substitute +does not sit in his principal’s place in the upper house; he sits in the +lower one, where, however, he has no vote. This is a useless privilege +which ought to be abolished. + +♦ CORPORATIONS ♦ + +In the free towns the deputies are chosen by the burghers, who form +close corporations. Now, as was formerly the case in England, some +free towns which have greatly declined in population continue to elect +deputies, while other towns which have much augmented their population +are altogether without the elective franchise. Schedules A and B are +much wanted in those parts of Hungary; the right of election requires +to be more extensively diffused, and thus the work of reform would be +conducted without any great difficulty to a successful conclusion, +inasmuch as a strong spirit of freedom exists throughout the country, +which is sustained by the custom long established, of holding public +meetings, and also assembling at public dinners, at which speeches are +made in every respect after our English fashion. Indeed, as I have +before observed, political topics are as openly discussed in Hungary as +they are with us; and though it can scarcely be said that a press exists +as yet in that country, nevertheless it possesses a certain current of +public opinion, against which the emperor has no means of contending, +however disagreeable it may be. + +♦ FINANCES ♦ + +It is understood that the finances of Hungary are in a most disordered +condition; so much so, that before long a crisis must arrive, dangerous +to the union of the two crowns, unless measures for averting that peril +be adopted in time. It will be impossible to mature any such measures, +still less to carry them into execution without the concurrence of +the diet, which will then assuredly take advantage of its power to +incorporate a complete political reform with that of the exchequer. + +♦ EDUCATION--JUSTICE ♦ + +The imposition of a toll upon all persons, without exception, who will +pass over the new bridge about to be constructed between Pesth and Buda, +is but the commencement of the abolition of those unjust privileges +which exempt the nobility in general from contributing to the taxes. +The clergy have at present a monopoly of all the means of education. It +is intended to put an end to that system, to establish public schools +upon the Lancasterian plan, in every parish of Hungary, which shall be +supplied with masters educated especially for their duties at Pesth. The +administration of justice requires also a complete revision, and the +wealth of the church is supposed very considerably to exceed the real +wants of a Christian establishment. The magnates are disposed to assume +a decided part in favour of all these reforms, but it cannot be doubted +that they will take care not to make the people too strong by widening +beyond what they deem to be strictly inevitable, the democratic basis of +the constitution. + +♦ SERVIAN GLADOVA ♦ + +We arrived about noon at Gladova, where we found the Argo steamer +waiting for us. But as the carriages and general articles of +merchandise which had been forwarded from Moldava to Orsova had not yet +made their appearance at the Wallachian station, I was obliged once +more to draw somewhat liberally on my stock of patience. Here were five +days already spent in making a journey, for which two ought to have +been amply sufficient. An excellent dinner, however, which had been +previously ordered by the Count, and a bottle of Champagne from a case +provided by him for our voyage, consoled us for our disappointment. + +The mornings began to be rather sharp. Nevertheless we breakfasted on +deck (Oct. 4) on dry toast and coffee; after which, taking with us a +quarantine inspector, we crossed the river in a small boat to Servian +Gladova, which is a fortified town of some pretensions. We walked +through the environs; our inspector not permitting us to enter the +interior of the town, unless we were disposed on our return to take +up our abode in the lazaretto. The country around seemed remarkably +fertile, but it was almost wholly uncultivated. Such of the inhabitants +as we saw were pictures of indolence--they were mostly dressed in the +Turkish costume, though many were apparelled in the European fashion. +We saw only one woman, in the course of our peregrinations, and she was +closely veiled. + +♦ TRAJAN’S BRIDGE ♦ + +On our return to the steamer, some discussion arose as to the exact +site of Trajan’s bridge across the Danube, which, though recorded in +history, had hitherto puzzled all the commentators; as, in fact, no +trace of that once magnificent edifice had been discovered for many +ages. The Count suggested that, as the river was now so low, there +was a chance of our settling the question by a personal examination. +Accordingly, we proceeded on foot along the Wallachian shore, until we +arrived at the ruins of an ancient tower, built on an eminence, which +had been evidently raised by artificial means. The tower was of Roman +construction, and, as we conjectured that it might have been intended as +a guard-station for the defence of the bridge, we ascended the eminence +with no slight feelings of curiosity. + +♦ TRAJAN’S BRIDGE ♦ + +Looking down the river, which is here of no very great width, and +divided by a sandbank, which, however, cannot be perceptible in the +ordinary state of the Danube, we distinctly observed the water curling +over a series of impediments extending in a right line from bank to +bank. At both extremities of this line we perceived on the land the +remains of square pillars; and, on approaching the ruin on our side, +we found it constructed of blocks of stone, faced towards the river +with Roman tiles, evidently forming the buttress of the first arch +of the bridge. In the river itself we counted the remains of six or +seven pillars, which had manifestly served to sustain as many arches, +connecting the bank on which we stood with the opposite one. No doubt +therefore could remain that here was the site of Trajan’s celebrated +bridge, a marvellous work for the times in which he lived, considering +that it had been constructed on one of the most remote confines of the +Roman empire. I calculated that these interesting ruins were about three +English miles from Gladova. I brought away a fragment of a tile, as a +rude memorial of our discovery. + +♦ STATIONS ON THE DANUBE ♦ + +The Count, who was seldom idle, sat down, upon our return to our cabin, +and wrote for me, in English, a memorandum of the distances of the +navigable stations on the Danube, which I here copy. + + German Miles. + Part. | Total. + From Eschingen to Regensburg 50 | 50 + ---- Regensburg to Vienna 50 | 100 + ---- Vienna to Pesth 40 | 140 + ---- Pesth to Peterwardein 60 | 200 + ---- Peterwardein to Orsova 40 | 240 + ---- Orsova to Galacz 100 | 340 + ---- Galacz to the Black Sea 25 | 365 + | + If we add to these items the distance from | + the mouth of the Danube to Constantinople, | + by the Black Sea, which is seventy German 70 | + miles then the total distance from Eschingen to | + Constantinople will be four hundred and | + thirty-five German miles or about one thousand | + nine hundred and fifty-eight miles of English | + admeasurement. | 435 + +As the voyage by steam, however, can only be made from Presburg to +Constantinople, the distance is reduced to about fourteen hundred and +forty English miles; which, when the steam-boat establishment and works +on the Danube are completed, might be easily traversed in eight days and +nights. At present, the journey overland from Vienna to Constantinople +cannot be made in the ordinary mode of travelling within less than +three weeks. The new route by the Danube will exhibit, therefore, one +of the most important triumphs over time which the steam-engine has yet +accomplished. + +♦ WONDERS OF STEAM ♦ + +The advantages destined to arise out of this great enterprise to +Hungary, to Servia, Wallachia, and Bulgaria, and, indeed, to all +Turkey, are incalculable. Those countries, which have hitherto seemed +scarcely to belong to Europe, will be rapidly brought within the +pale of civilization; their natural riches, which are inexhaustible, +will be multiplied; their productions will be vastly improved; their +institutions and laws will be assimilated to those of the most advanced +nations; and new combinations, not only of physical but also of moral +strength, will be created, which may give birth to important changes +in the distribution of political power on the continent. Indeed, while +I am writing this page from my notes, I learn from an authentic source +that the people have demanded and obtained a representative constitution +from Prince Milosch in Servia, and that the first assembly of the +states has been already held at Karagozovatz, where, on the 28th of +February last, he delivered a speech, of which I have procured from +the same quarter an accurate translation. As this speech exhibits an +interesting and characteristic picture of the patriarchal condition of +that principality, and as no copy of it has yet been published, I need +not apologize for placing it before my readers. + +♦ SPEECH OF PRINCE MILOSCH ♦ + +“_Speech pronounced by Prince Milosch, before the General Assembly held +on the 16th (28th n. s.) of February, 1835, at Karagozovatz in Servia._” + +“A year has gone by since we met in greater numbers, and on a more +important occasion. It was our intention when we separated to assemble +in greater numbers on St. George’s Day, but owing to want of forage +we were under the necessity of holding only a small reunion some +time after that epoch. During the summer, as well as the autumn, it +became impossible to convoke a national assembly; first, because in +consequence of the extraordinary drought, neither water nor hay could be +procured; and secondly, because we had not been able to terminate the +various reports to be laid before the general assembly. Even up to the +present moment it has not been possible to complete the census of our +population, and ascertain the amount of the income drawn from tithes and +other sources of revenue. It has not been in my power either, within so +short a space of time, to establish many of the institutions of which +I yet perceive the urgent necessity. It is but a year since Servia +has become a state. In laying down the foundation of a new one, it is +necessary to go slowly to work, to take care not to utter even a single +syllable which to-morrow, perhaps, we shall have to retract; much to +the detriment of the public interest, and greatly to our own dishonour. +Centuries have gone by before the different states in the world could +attain the position in which we at present see them. Yet every day their +institutions require some alteration. Such must also be Servia’s fate; +Servia cannot in one year become a state so perfectly administered +as to be faultless. Many are the peculiarities which yet distinguish +the Servian nation. These must be sacrificed to the civilization and +enlightenment characterizing the nations of Europe, before we can aspire +to be ranked among them. First of all, we do not possess yet amongst us +the sufficient number of men capable of directing the administration of +the country, as is the case in Europe. This has been the great drawback +to the foundation of those institutions which it is my wish to establish +in our country.” + +“On so solemn an occasion as the present, surrounded by the dearest +members of my family, our metropolitan and bishops, the members of +the Servian legislative body, those of the provincial tribunals, the +captains from the different districts, the elders of the principal +commonalities, and the high clergy, I appear before you, beloved +brethren, to recal to your memory the speech I delivered last year on +St. Tryphon’s day, before the general assembly, and which I caused to be +printed and distributed among the people. In that speech I acquainted +you with the desire I had of forming a regular administration; secondly, +of assessing taxation in a manner both equitable and simple, and at the +same time convenient for the treasury; thirdly, of paying the debts of +our former bishops, which were a great burden on the provinces lately +incorporated with Servia. I have uninterruptedly during a year devoted +my attention, both in the council and when consulting the legislature +of our country, to ascertain the administrative system best adapted +and most advantageous to our country, and have come to the firm +determination, first, to promulgate a statute for Servia, accurately +defining the rights and duties of the Prince of Servia,--the rights +and duties of Servian magistrates,--as well as those of every Servian. +This statute shall be read in your presence. You will then see that +the general national nights are the rights which every Servian is to +enjoy,--are such as humanity demands; that the person of every Servian +is free;--that every Servian is master of his property. Obedience to +this statute we must swear,--not only we who are now here assembled, +but also every one of our brethren who happens to be absent. We must +swear one to the other;--the prince to the magistrates and people, the +magistrates to the prince and people, the people to the prince and +magistrates,--that we consider this statute sacred and inviolable as we +hold the gospel to be inviolable and sacred,--that we shall not depart +an inch from it, or alter a single syllable of it, without previously +obtaining the approval and consent of the whole nation.” + +“Secondly, I have resolved to form a council of state, constituting the +first and highest magistrature in the country after me, the prince. +It will consist of six ministers, each of whom will preside over a +department of the administration, and of various privy councillors. The +ministers are to draw up reports on affairs, the councillors are to +examine them,--then authorize acts to be laid before me for my approval. +Ministers, as well as the councillors, are responsible to the prince +and people for their acts, and especially for every abuse they may be +guilty of in the exercise of their power.” + +“Thirdly, I have caused our civil and criminal code, to the digestion +of which four years have been consecrated, once more to be revised, +improved, and rendered more intelligible. These will be laid before +our judges, that they may, according to their contents, protect the +innocent and punish the guilty. Henceforth, every Servian will meet +with protection and justice, not as formerly, in the opinions of the +judge, but under the ægis of the law. Through similar institutions, +the internal administration, will, I trust, become strengthened and +connected as by a chain. The people will be placed under the elders, the +captains, and judges; the judges under the council of state; the council +under the prince, and in contact with the prince; the prince himself +under the law, and in constant relation with the council. A similar +institution will, I hope, act as a curb on the arbitrary will of us all +in general, and of each of us in particular. It is possible, that even +in these institutions, imperfections may be detected; they will, in the +course of time, come to light, and be remedied. Neither my judgment, nor +the information I am possessed of, nor the time I have at my disposal, +have sufficed to bring to perfection so important a task, that is, so as +to enable me to say, ‘No one will be able to find fault with my work,’ +or ‘It is the most perfect work upon earth.’” + +“Having thus fulfilled the promise I made, to introduce order in the +internal administration, I shall beg your attention to the other +important question, mentioned in my speech of last year,--namely, how +should contributions be levied on the people?” + +“The Servian nation is placed under the necessity of meeting annually +the following expenses: The tribute to the sultan; the salary of the +prince and his family; the salaries of persons holding situations under +government; the salary of bishops; expenditure for the maintenance of a +military force at home for the police, and also for the troops on the +frontiers; for post establishments; for the quarantine establishment; +for the mission at Constantinople; for the agents at different places; +and lastly, expenses for unforeseen circumstances.” + +“Hitherto, revenues drawn from different sources, have enabled us to +defray the above indispensable expenses; in future, the Servian nation +must, as for the past, furnish us with the necessary supplies. I have, +in concert with the legislative body, endeavoured to find out the means +of satisfying the imperious claims of necessity in the lightest and +most equitable manner for the people, and, at the same time, the most +convenient for our government. We had, during the course of last year, +several discussions on the subject; some entertaining one opinion, +others a different one. I perceived, at last, that it was preferable to +draw up an estimate of the expenditure of Servia, and to collect the +amount directly, and in one sum, from the people. The collection of this +tax shall be made at two different epochs of the year, one half being +paid at the feast of St. George, 23d April, the other at that of St. +Demetrius, 9th November, thus to afford the people time enough in the +interval to collect the sum requisite before the appointed day.” + +“To prevent the people from being hourly teased by small indirect +contributions, I have established but one tax, one of three dollars +every six months, from every one; let every one, I say, pay three +dollars half-yearly, and thus be exempt from paying any thing; whether +for poll-tax, church taxes, matrimony tax, mill and distillery tax, a +corn tax, and also the tenth on Indian corn, wheat, barley, and oats; +the tenth on bee-hives and wine; and lastly, let the people be exempted +from all kinds of obligatory service to men in office, except in those +cases where government requires labourers for works of public utility; +but even in this case, government shall pay wages to every man who +shall work a whole day. Roads and bridges alone shall be constructed +at the expense of the different villages. Forests and pasture-grounds +shall, in future, be a national property; the whole nation paying +contributions for them, it is but fair that the whole nation should +enjoy the privilege of making use of them. Now if the people will duly +weigh the numerous advantages that will arise from this new mode of +taxation, I trust every one will allow that no nation in Europe is more +lightly taxed than the Servians.” + +“It remains to be seen, whether the produce of this tax is sufficient +for the annual expenses. Our administration must now ascertain whether +it be so or not. It will be the duty of the minister of finances at the +expiration of the year to lay the accounts before me, the council and +the national assembly, exhibiting the income as well as the expenses of +government.” + +“In order, however, that the assessment of this tax may be made in such +a manner, that the richest as well as the poorest Servian may remain +satisfied, I lay before you the census of the population, in which the +number of married, as well as unmarried individuals is marked: the +property of every Servian is also noted down, and of course the elders +of every village are aware of the amount of each man’s tithes. It is +according to this list, and to each man’s income, that the assessment +of this tax is to take place. To decide what portion of this tax each +individual has to pay is neither my business nor government’s; this +is to be determined by the elders of each municipality. They should +examine this list, compare the amount of the tithes paid by each person, +and in concert with the captains and judges of the district, make the +assessment of this tax in such a manner as not to give to the poor +motives for accusing them of partiality.” + +“These words I address to you, Brethren and Gentlemen, and request +you will let me hear, or communicate in writing, your undisguised and +unanimous opinion on the subject, in order to enable me to ascertain +whether you approve of the institutions I have alluded to,--whether +you agree with me on the amount of taxation as well as on the mode of +levying it. Let me hear your opinion, now that you are assembled, and +after having sworn to-day the statutes, choose amongst you the most +capable individuals, and invest them with full powers to act as your +representatives here so as to enable me to act in concert with them and +the Council of State. These persons will afterwards return to their +homes and acquaint you with the result of our combined labours. Chosen +by yourselves, these persons will be your deputies; and those whose +representatives they are must provide for their entertainment;--they +will assist at every meeting in order to examine the accounts, and +communicate information to the people on the subject.” + +“So considerable a reunion of men as the present one, cannot, owing +to the expense it occasions, take place annually; but Deputies of the +People, such as I propose to you, exist in other countries and are +equally necessary in our own.” + +Private letters further state that the death of the Emperor Francis has +been followed by very serious agitations in Hungary and Transylvania; +that the sultan is proceeding rapidly and boldly with his plans of +reform at Constantinople; and I observe that a company has been +established in London for the purpose of connecting Marseilles +with Constantinople by a line of steam-packets. Thus preparations +are in progress throughout all that region for great changes; and +communications between Vienna by the Danube, the Black Sea, the +Mediterranean, and London, may be said to be on the eve of completion, +which will afford the merchant, the politician, or the summer traveller +the opportunity of visiting most of the principal cities of Europe, +within the brief period of a month or six weeks--a tour upon which +hitherto no person could think of entering who had not at least a full +year at his disposal. Such are some of the miracles of the age of steam! + +♦ NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GLADOVA ♦ + +The country around Gladova presents a picturesque succession of hills, +which sloping gradually towards the Danube, open their bosoms to the +southern sun. At present they are scarcely cultivated, but it can hardly +be doubted that in a few years they will be converted into vineyards, +for which the soil is well adapted. The Count looked forward with +singular pleasure to the improvements which his efforts were calculated +to produce in all the countries washed by his native river. + +♦ WALLACHIAN HUT ♦ + +We were invited in the evening to take tea with the military, or rather +the quarantine, commandant of the place. As we quitted our boat the day +had just closed. There was a golden hue along the verge of the horizon +towards the east, and the new moon appeared in the transparent sky of +Servia a delicate crescent of silver. I had never before beheld our +satellite at so early a period of its monthly course. It seemed to have +but that moment received on its mountain tops the first rays of the sun. +I no longer wondered that it should have been adopted as a national +ensign in that country: seen, as I then saw it, suspended like the bow +of an angel in the heavens, it was an object almost for adoration. + +Our host, a Wallachian officer in blue uniform, was a well-looking +young man, full of good nature. His house, or rather his hut, was +constructed of hurdle, plastered on both sides with mud, and on the +inside whitewashed, the walls betraying all the irregularities of the +wicker-work. The flat roof was in the same style. His bed, a mattress, +which lay in one corner, raised a few feet from the ground, was the +common sofa. His chamber boasted of two tables, on one of which his +museum and toilet were established, consisting of heads and amber +mouthpieces of Turkish pipes, a silver bell, a pair of scissors, a +snuffbox, a musical box, a dressing-case, a huge silver watch, a +penknife, a smelling-bottle, and a pot of pomatum; all enshrined beneath +a brown gauze veil. On the wall a gay rug, exhibiting in the middle a +Mameluke holding a hound in the leash, was suspended, and within this +compartment were tastefully displayed his sword, gun, cartouche-box, +powder-horn, ataghan, belt, and epaulets. + +♦ MATRIMONIAL SPECULATION ♦ + +Our party was soon increased by one of our friend’s brother officers, +an ill-looking guest with one eye, who was accompanied by a great, fat, +ugly woman, without a tooth in her head, dressed out in all her finery +of “tinsel and brocade.” Though not young it was apparent that she had +won the heart of her attendant, who having found for her a chair, placed +himself on a stool at her feet, holding her brawny hand in his, which +he frequently kissed. I learned afterwards that she was very rich, and +that hearing of the establishment of the steam-boat she removed from +the interior of the country to Gladova, with a view to look out for a +husband. She appeared to be on the highway to success. + +♦ CHARMS OF PROCRASTINATION ♦ + +We had tea in tumbler glasses, mixed with milk and rum, which, as the +evening was cold, we unanimously pronounced excellent. The musical box +in the mean time was wound up, and afforded the _lovers_ a treat. +The Count entered into the spirit of the scene with the most playful +goodhumour, exhibiting that unaffected condescension, that happy power +of placing himself upon an equality with those around him, without at +the same time impairing the natural dignity of his manner, which have +procured for him unrivalled influence amongst his own countrymen. We +finished the night in our cabin with a rubber of whist, the count taking +“dumby” against Mr. Tasner and myself. + +Morning came again (October 5), but still no sign of the carriages or +merchandise, for which we were waiting. We were all really provoked by +this protracted delay, which seemed unaccountable, as we had received +intelligence of their arrival at Orsova. The Count, having procured +a horse, said he would ride on as far as the “Iron Door,” hoping to +meet the caravan on the way. He hoped in vain, and rode on to Orsova, +where he found the oxen and men engaged for the purpose, all asleep! He +set about putting the oxen to the cars himself, and remained until he +saw the whole team on the road. The laziness of these Wallachians is +indomitable. They would have remained at Orsova for a week, without +thinking of moving, if the Count had not luckily paid them a visit. + +♦ DEPARTURE FROM GLADOVA ♦ + +Our cargo having been once more arranged on board, we most willingly +took our departure from Gladova at noon the next day. The Danube being +extremely low, we were obliged to proceed at a cautious pace until after +we passed Trajan’s bridge, where the water became deeper. The Count +pointed out to me the tops of the higher range of the Balkan mountains, +which appeared at a great distance, like a blue vapour in the sky. The +country on each side of the river seemed wholly uncultivated; it was +composed of gently-swelling hills, which, when subjected to the plough, +will, doubtless, abundantly repay the toil of the husbandman. The grass +was parched by the long-continued drought, which had scarcely been +interrupted by more than partial showers during the preceding seven +or eight months. In spring those hills clothed in fresh verdure must +look beautiful. Naked and desolate even as they then appeared, every +bend of the Danube, and the bends were innumerable, opened a new and +ever-varying prospect. + +♦ BENDS IN THE DANUBE ♦ + +The Wallachian bank, exposed to all the fervour of the noonday sun, +appeared peculiarly destined for the vintage. But the whole of that +country had been so long distracted by anarchy, that the people, who +had fled to Hungary are only now beginning to return. Their cottages +are still constructed in the most simple and temporary style, because +they do not feel assured of the continuance of that domestic peace, +which happily they now enjoy. When the population increase--when their +habitations are improved--when their industry is encouraged by the +influence of order and the laws, and they feel themselves protected +from the spoliation of marauding armies--they will be enabled, with the +assistance of a few years, to convert the whole of that region into a +Paradise. The Servian territory also, on our right, seemed capable of +great things. The soil looked rich and crumbling; nor was beauty of +scenery wanting to its other attractions. + +Some hours after leaving Orsova, such is the extraordinary manner in +which the Danube winds in its course, that it actually retrogrades +towards Moldava, and I came again in sight of the mountains through +which I had passed in the fishing-boat. These mountains stretch across +the north-east angle of Servia, where they form a cluster like the +Apennines, and partly divide that principality from Bulgaria. We +stopped for the night at Vervo. + +♦ APPROACH TO VIDIN ♦ + +Having resumed our voyage at the dawn (October 7), we arrived early +at Kalefat, where we took on board three Wallachian officers of the +quarantine, as the Count intended to pay a visit to the Pacha of Vidin. +The redoubts still remain here which were thrown up by the Turks +during the late war with Russia, and in the neighbourhood of which a +severe engagement took place. The Russians are supposed to have lost +eight thousand men on that occasion, although in their report of the +battle they took no note of the slain. The important city of Vidin, in +Bulgaria, exhibited at this point a very imposing aspect. I counted +twenty minarets shooting up their whitened spires above the domes of +the mosques, and amidst the tall cypresses, which are found in almost +every Turkish town. Several troops of infantry were encamped on a plain +in the neighbourhood; the activity which prevailed about their tents, +and the marching and countermarching of divisions in order of battle, +informed us that they were under review at that moment by the Pacha. The +regiments seemed well accoutred, and thoroughly conversant with the +evolutions which they had to perform. + +♦ MAGNATE’S COSTUME ♦ + +As we approached Vidin, the scene became extremely animated and +picturesque. Numerous boats were gliding up and down the river, between +the town and the camp, or stationed near the bank, where crowds of the +inhabitants, including a large proportion of females, were collected in +order to see the steam-boat. Two or three groups of ladies, who appeared +to be persons of distinction, as I concluded, from the respect which was +paid to them, as well as from their snow-white lawn veils and their long +green and scarlet cloth pelisses, were seated apart from the multitude. +They had no male attendant with them, and they occasionally rose and +walked about, as if to show that they were under no sort of restraint. + +The Count having obtained permission from the Turkish authorities +to go ashore, exchanged his ordinary dress for the court costume of +a Hungarian magnate, which is peculiarly splendid and becoming. It +resembles the uniform of an officer of the hussars, with the exception +that the jacket, as well as the short mantle, are of purple velvet. +The Count’s sword and sword-belt, with its large gold clasp, were +magnificent. He wore, moreover, the gold key as chamberlain to the +emperor, and three or four Austrian collars and orders. He had the +goodness to invite Mr. Tasner and myself to accompany him on his visit; +the former had already a character as his secretary, and as it was +necessary for me to comply so far with Turkish customs as to appear also +a member of the Count’s travelling suite, I became for the hour his +_physician_! + +♦ VISIT TO HUSSEIN PACHA ♦ + +The pacha to whom we were about to pay our respects was the celebrated +Hussein, who had so bravely defended Shumla against the Russian army in +the last war. He is known to be the best soldier, and one of the most +able men in the Ottoman empire; but having failed in the expedition +to Syria, where he was twice beaten by Ibrahim, he was recalled in +disgrace. His enemies at the Porte strenuously exerted themselves to +have him introduced to the acquaintance of the eunuch who has possession +of the bowstring; but the sultan respected the talents of Hussein, +and never doubted his fidelity. Had he remained at Constantinople, +he would have probably regained his former ascendancy in the state: +he was therefore _exiled_ with the extraordinary rank, however, of +Field-marshal to the Pachalic of Vidin, where he endeavours to forget +his reverse of fortune in his exertions to form a few regiments who are +intended to be models of discipline to the whole army. Hussein is a +sincere patriot--a thorough hater of Russia; and there is no doubt that, +if a revolution were to occur at the capital, threatening a change of +dynasty, he would be found a formidable champion of the Mahometan cause. + +♦ THE PACHA’S DEPUTY ♦ + +Upon landing with our quarantine attendants, we were conducted through +an immense crowd of the people on shore, who received us with every +possible degree of civility, to the pacha’s palace, which is just at +the entrance to the town. Ascending an open staircase we were shown, +in the first instance, to a large balcony which commanded a fine view +of the river. Here we found the pacha’s chief officer sitting in state +in the usual Turkish fashion, on a wooden sofa, which was covered with +a carpet. He had two or three pillows to support his back, was smoking +a long pipe with an ordinary amber mouthpiece, and was surrounded by +eight or ten domestics, some of whom were most wretchedly attired in the +Greek or European dress, barefooted, and wearing on their heads the red +Greek cap, which, in fact, is like a red cloth nightcap with a blue silk +tassel at the top, and to my mind peculiarly unbecoming. + +♦ AN INTERPRETER ♦ + +The Count had forgotten to provide an interpreter. The embarrassment, +therefore, may be easily conceived, which was felt by both parties, when +the vice-governor could not ask us what we wanted; and if he did ask any +such question, we could make no reply. We examined each other, so far as +looks could serve, with unfeigned curiosity, and resolved that we were +mutually in a very ludicrous situation; from which, however, we were, +after half an hour’s delay, fortunately released by the entrance of +Hussein’s physician. + +This man was a Florentine by birth; but he had been sent to Turkey at a +very early age to seek his fortune, and had now almost wholly forgotten +his native language. He affected to speak French, and was looked up +to by the vice-regal court of Vidin as a linguist of the first order. +He was dressed in the Greek cap, blue round jacket and trousers, gray +worsted stockings, and yellow slippers. There was a sinister expression +in his eye, and a consciousness of guilt upon his flushed forehead, as +well as in his nervous utterance, which warned us at once that we were +in the presence of an adventurer, who for an adequate consideration +would never refuse the secret exercise of his skill against the enemy of +his employer. We felt as if we could read in his countenance a volume of +crime, and we afterwards learned from our quarantime companions that our +suspicions were by no means unfounded. + +♦ EXPLANATIONS ♦ + +The Count explained in French, that he had come to pay his respects +to the pacha, upon which we were informed that the pacha was not at +home; that he had gone out with his favourite son to review the troops +encamped near the town, but that he was expected back every moment, as +his carriage had been sent for him, and a messenger would be despatched +to hasten his arrival. The physician stood at the end of the sofa, +covered, as in fact we also were, in compliance with the manners of +Turkey; whenever he had occasion to speak to the vice-governor he put +his hand to his forehead, then to his lips and breast, the established +mode of giving the salaam, which by the way constantly reminded me of a +Roman Catholic making the sign of the cross. Our carpet stools meanwhile +were brought from the steam-boat, in order that we should strictly +observe the quarantine laws, by not touching any thing capable of +communicating the plague. We then sat down, looking at each other, as +before, for nearly an hour, the silence being now and then interrupted +by a question addressed to the physician by the vice-governor, then +interpreted to the Count, who gave his answer, which was again +interpreted to the vice-governor, who nodded his head, looked surprised, +and again puffed a more than ordinary cloud of smoke from his distended +cheeks. + +♦ PLEASURES OF DISGUISE ♦ + +I own I did not feel quite at ease in my medical character. I was +apprehensive that the physician would have interrogated me on +professional matters, and would have discovered my entire ignorance +of the subject, for in truth I had never opened a medical book in my +life. Luckily he avoided every topic of the kind as much as I did, and +most probably for the very same reason. Pipes and coffee were brought, +which varied the scene for a moment, the attendants taking scrupulous +care while they handed us the little china cups on a tray, and the long +pipes, to keep themselves from touching any part of our dress with their +own habiliments. + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + Hussein Pacha--Hussein’s son--Group at the interview--Commencement + of conversation--Conversation prolonged--Steam expedition--Cool + reception--Pacha’s harem--Wallachia and Moldavia--Treaty of + Adrianople--Silistria--Boat aground--New delays--Zantiote boat-- + Adventurous changes--Separation--Ionian luxuries--A grave mistake. + + +The vice-governor was a fat, sickly-looking man, about fifty years of +age, and grave even to stupidity. He could not hold out his curiosity +beyond the ordinary question, whence we had come, what we wanted, and +whither we were going. Having exhausted these topics he sunk again into +a sort of Sybarite dreamy torpor, as if the odour of his tobacco were +the perfume of Paradise. It was certainly very fragrant, and his coffee +was the best I ever tasted. The physician was still a young man, but he +looked also pale, haggard and nervous. He complained much of the air of +Vidin, as peculiarly unwholesome; it was, he said, extremely cold, as +compared with that of Stamboul, where he had lived for thirteen years. +The town, and especially the palace, were exposed on one side to the +vapours of the Danube, which here presents an extensive surface to the +rays of the sun, and on the other to the freezing blasts which rush +down from the Balkan mountains, He was assuredly much discontented with +his lot, and confessed with an involuntary pang, which flung a strong +expression of remorse athwart his forehead, that he had adopted the +Mahometan faith. + +♦ HUSSEIN PACHA ♦ + +At length the rattle of a carriage was heard driving into the courtyard +below: it was immediately announced that the pacha had returned, and +in a few minutes we were summoned to his presence. Passing through a +line of twenty or thirty shabby officers, some of whom were dressed in +turbans and flowered silk pelisses, we entered a large plain saloon, +covered with a blue carpet, and containing no other furniture, except a +divan, or bench, hung with yellow damask, which extended all round the +room close to the walls. In a dark corner, seated in the usual Turkish +attitude, was Hussein, apparently about fifty-five years old, his face +deeply marked by the smallpox, swarthy and tremulous, as if he had not +been unaccustomed to opium. His eye beamed with the light of superior +intelligence experienced in the exercise of authority. He wore a dark +olive cloth pelisse, edged with sable fur, and the red Greek cap with +its blue silk tassel. He was smoking when we entered, and continued to +smoke while we remained. + +♦ HUSSEIN’S SON ♦ + +On his right-hand was seated, also in the Turkish fashion, his son by +his favourite consort, about ten years old, dressed precisely like his +father, beyond all comparison the most beautiful boy I ever beheld. A +high forehead, dark well defined eyebrows, long black lashes, brilliant +hazel eyes, downy oval cheeks glowing with the blush of health, lips red +as the rose and pregnant with the consciousness of high station, but at +the same time pensive, combined with other features of more than Italian +perfection to exhibit a model for one of Raphael’s angels. The contrast +between this boy and his father will be understood by those who have +seen the statues of Prudence and Justice in St. Peter’s at Rome, or who +can imagine Winter furrowed by storm and mantled in cloud, coming back +to look at the joyous Spring. + +♦ GROUP AT THE INTERVIEW ♦ + +The tone of Hussein’s voice, naturally rough, was evidently softened by +the influence which the presence of this lovely youth exercised over +him. He desired us, in a very kind manner through the physician, to +be seated, our own stools having been brought in for that purpose. We +formed a strange group altogether--the pacha smoking on the divan, his +son near him with a small riding-whip in his hand headed by a silver +whistle; the Count in his Hungarian costume seated in front of the +pacha; Mr. Tasner and myself in black, our hats on, seated on the left +of the Count; the three quarantine officers standing in a line with +us; immediately behind the Count his groom in rich livery, and his +gamekeeper dressed in “Lincoln green,” cocked hat and green feathers, +each with a double-barrelled fowlingpiece in his hand, mounted in +silver; and at the back of these a train of officers and domestics +without either slippers or shoes, their toes peeping through their +stockings, arrayed in every variety of European and Eastern habiliments, +extending from the angle occupied by the pacha to the door. + +♦ COMMENCEMENT OF CONVERSATION ♦ + +The preliminaries of presentation having been gone through, the Count +stated, through the Florentine, that as he was passing by Vidin on his +way to Bucharest, he felt it incumbent on him to pay his respects to the +pacha: that he was a nobleman of Hungary appointed by the Emperor of +Austria to direct the improvements which were necessary to facilitate +the navigation of the Danube by steam-boats from Presburg to the Black +Sea, whence they might then proceed to Stamboul. The enterprise, when +completed, would be equally advantageous to Turkey as to Hungary, and +he availed himself of that opportunity to recommend it to the pacha’s +protection. Hussein bade the Count welcome, and said that he was very +glad to see him, but made no allusion to the enterprise, which he did +not appear to comprehend. A pause of nearly a quarter of an hour then +ensued, during which we seemed all conscious of being employed in +conjecturing how this oppressive silence was next to be broken. + +♦ CONVERSATION PROLONGED ♦ + +At length, the pacha having exhausted his pipe, inquired if the emperor +was much beloved in Hungary. The Count answered in the affirmative, +adding that it was impossible for any man to know the emperor without +esteeming him for his great personal virtues. An effort was then made +to prolong the conversation by an allusion to the relations of peace +which were now happily established between the Turks and the Hungarians, +who had been so long engaged in hostilities; but Hussein cut it short +by the maxim, that it was always better for men to be at peace with +each other than at war. This truism having been pronounced with great +self-complacency, and admitted on all hands, a second quarter of an hour +elapsed in solemn taciturnity, which was really very embarrassing. + +The assigned period for the generation of another idea having been +fully accomplished, the pacha delivered himself of an observation, +that the emperor had several officers of distinguished talent in his +service. The Count confirmed the justness of this remark. Silence again +resumed her wand, and we were all spellbound. In the mean while, pipes +with splendid amber mouthpieces, were brought by the attendants, and +presented to us; after which, another set of domestics came round with +a japanned tray, on which sweetmeats were served in glasses. But as it +would be necessary for us to use silver spoons, which were on the tray, +and silver is supposed to be a conductor of the plague, our quarantine +friends interposed and prohibited the luxury, much to my annoyance, as +beside the sweetmeats were arranged glasses of sherbet. Hussein smiled, +not pleased however, at the scrupulousness of our guards, which he must +have felt as a sort of imputation upon his country. + +♦ STEAM EXPEDITION ♦ + +Small china coffee-cups were then brought in upon a gold tray; they +were turned down, with silver filagree cups placed over each. Coffee +was next produced in a japanned pot, and the tray and coffee-pot having +been placed on the floor by the attendants, one of them presented a +cup to our chief officer, who removing it from its silver case, filled +it with the fragrant beverage, and placed it in the Count’s hand. In +this way Mr. Tasner and I were also served. The pacha and his son took +some sherbet. This ceremony being concluded, the pacha inquired whether +the steam-boat was going to Stamboul. The Count replied that the steam +navigation so far was not yet completed, but that when another boat, +which was daily expected from Trieste, should arrive at Galacz, it would +be possible to make the voyage from Presburg to Stamboul in eight days. +This intelligence produced an exclamation of surprise from Hussein. His +officers and domestics held up their hands in amazement. But it was +clear that Hussein was no friend to this sort of expedition, which he +evidently thought predicted no good for Turkey. + +♦ COOL RECEPTION ♦ + +The Count finding that the interview had already lasted long enough, +rose, and we took our departure. As we came out he gave one of the +servants ten gold ducats to be distributed amongst them, according to +the Turkish custom, which permits no person of rank to visit another +without levying this kind of tax for the benefit of the domestics. In +most cases it forms the only wages they receive. The Count had intended +to present the two fowling pieces to the pacha, but he came away without +effecting his purpose, as the medical adventurer’s interpretation was +really so loose and blundering, that it would have been impossible to +have performed the ceremony with that degree of gracefulness, which +would alone have given value to the gift. Perhaps, too, the Count felt +that his reception was cool. + +♦ PACHA’S HAREM ♦ + +It was our wish to have walked through Vidin, and made ourselves +acquainted with the features of that important town, but our quarantine +officers would not hear of such a thing. We were even directed to get +rid of the dust of Vidin on the soles of our boots by dipping them in +the river. Upon returning to our boat we were therefore obliged to +content ourselves with all that we could see through a telescope of its +fortifications and mosques, bounded in the distance by the Balkans. +The pacha’s harem formed a striking object in the scene, but we could +discern no bright eyes peeping through the lattices by which every +window was guarded. We were told, indeed, that two ladies, dressed in +black long cloth pelisses, and closely veiled, who stood on the bank of +the Danube under the harem, were its principal inmates. But beyond this +supposition our curiosity was destined to meet no gratification. + +The Wallachian officers dined with us. In the course of conversation I +learned that the quarantine establishment, which gave full employment to +the only troops the hospodar possessed, was entirely under the control +of the Russian consul at Bucharest. I took the liberty, therefore, +to remark that our guests were in fact Russian officers much more +than Wallachian, inasmuch as the regulation of the quarantine in any +country is the peculiar attribute of sovereign authority. This remark, +far from being contested, was on the contrary immediately acceded to: +the gentlemen appeared rather pleased at being recognised as imperial +servants, in which character they also considered the hospodar. Indeed, +they added, how could any doubt exist upon the subject, seeing that the +prince, when he was invested with the office of hospodar by the sultan +at Constantinople, was arrayed in the Russian uniform? + +♦ WALLACHIA AND MOLDAVIA ♦ + +The political condition of the two provinces, Wallachia and Moldavia, +is very little known in England. They are occupied chiefly by a +Sclavonian population, to which the Greeks also belong, professing +the Greek Catholic religion, actuated by an indelible hatred to the +Turks, and intimately connected with Russia by religious as well as +national sympathies. Though compelled by conquest to acknowledge the +sovereignty of the Porte, the provinces which are separated from the +Russian empire by the Pruth and mere geographical lines, were governed +for many years by two hospodars, native princes, selected by the Porte, +and continued in authority during the sultan’s pleasure. Vexatious +imposts, and great irregularities in the administration of justice, +produced incessant discontent among the people, who demanded the +protection of the emperor against the exactions and abuses of Turkish +authority. The emperor listened willingly to their complaints, and under +the pretext of securing them the free exercise of their religion, which +was in truth never disturbed, interposed in their favour. The treaty of +Bucharest, which was concluded in 1812, gave a direct sanction to that +interposition so far as the interests of religion were concerned. The +treaty of 1829, concluded at Adrianople, at the end of the late war, may +be considered as handing over the provinces to Russia altogether. + +♦ TREATY OF ADRIANOPLE ♦ + +By that treaty, or the articles subsequently added to it, it is +stipulated that the hospodar shall be appointed by the sultan for life, +and not for a term as before, from a list of native princes elected by +persons possessing a certain amount of property in the provinces. A +small annual tribute is to be paid to the sultan, who retains, under +the title of _suzeraineté_, the nominal supremacy of those districts. A +rigid quarantine, under the control of Russia, whose extensive empire +would be most endangered by the introduction of the plague from Turkey, +is to be observed along the whole of the Wallachian bank of the Danube, +thus establishing, in fact, an armed line of separation between the +Ottoman empire and its northern _dependencies_! + +♦ SILISTRIA ♦ + +On the opposite bank of the Danube, Silistria, the strongest fortified +town in Turkey, which commands all Bulgaria, and opens the road to +Constantinople, is given up for ever to Russia. I say “for ever,” +because Turkey engaged to pay an enormous sum by way of indemnity +for the expenses of the late war to Russia, and it was arranged that +until the whole of that indemnity was discharged Silistria should be +garrisoned by Russian troops. But all the various stipulations upon this +subject are so framed, as to leave the _time_ of payment entirely at +the discretion of the emperor, who will probably adjourn his demand for +the last instalments _sine die_. By this truly Russian diplomacy he may +retain Silistria as long as he pleases, which places in his hands the +moral sovereignty of Turkey. + +In order to complete his encroachments in that quarter, it has been +further provided in the treaty of Adrianople, that besides the +Bessarabian embouchure of the Danube, which he had already gained by the +treaty of Bucharest, the whole of the Delta of that river should be +ceded to him, and that with a view to prevent his sovereignty over that +part of the Danube from being disturbed, the Bulgarian side of the Delta +should remain for ever uninhabited, to the distance inland of six miles. +By these arrangements, the navigation of the Danube, so far, at least, +as intercourse with the Euxine is concerned, is subjected exclusively +to Russian control; and Wallachia and Moldavia, really separated from +Turkey, are as really added to the Russian empire. The _suzeraineté_ +of the sultan, and the nomination of the hospodars are mere diplomatic +contrivances for “throwing dust” in the eyes of Europe. + +♦ BOAT AGROUND ♦ + +After dinner we proceeded on our voyage; but found the river so shallow, +that we stopped for a while, and sent out men to sound for a deeper +channel. Under their guidance, and rubbing occasionally over sandbanks, +we kept on until the evening, and stopped for the night at Argugrad. +On the following morning we again proceeded on our way; but about nine +o’clock the boat penetrated a sandbank, where it remained as firmly +fixed as if it had grown up from the bottom of the river. Anticipating +an accident of this kind, we had brought with us from Argugrad a +flat-bottomed vessel, for the purpose of lightening the steamer of its +cargo: but upon sounding the river from bank to bank, it was discovered, +to our dismay, that even if the cargo, boiler, engine and all, were +removed, we had not the slightest chance of moving beyond the spot, +where we were fixed as by the spell of an enchanter. Indeed, we had the +agreeable prospect, about a mile before us, of three country boats, +laden with “fruit,” planted also like so many rocks, in the bed of the +Danube. + +♦ NEW DELAYS ♦ + +The paddles of the engine were backed, with the view at all events of +getting the steamer afloat, but they revolved in vain. The boiler was +then emptied of its contents: still she remained imperturbable. Anchors +were thrown out to shift her from her ground; but after breaking all +our ropes, and exhausting every contrivance, we were obliged to give up +the task in despair. The Count made up his mind to remain on board the +rest of the day, and if no chance of liberation should offer itself, +to send for horses to Kalefat, and to proceed by land to Giurgeva, and +Bucharest. He obligingly proposed to take me with him in his carriage, +saying, that I could have no difficulty in crossing from Giurgeva to +Rutschuk, where I could procure horses for a journey over the Balkans +to Constantinople. I calculated that it would take a day to go to +Kalefat for the horses; a second day, probably, to find them; a third +to return, and get the carriages ashore, and that after all it was +not certain that a carriage road could be found practicable as far +as Giurgeva, without first going to Bucharest. I looked forward with +no very pleasant feelings to this delay, seeing that the season for +travelling was rapidly drawing to a close. + +♦ ZANTIOTE BOAT ♦ + +Towards evening, while I was walking alone on deck, impatient of the +obstruction which my voyage had encountered, an Italian ship carpenter, +whom we had taken on board at Gladova, came to announce to me that a +boat was in sight, which he knew to belong to some Zantiotes, with whom +he had been employed in constructing the two frigates we had seen at +Semendria. The boat, he added, was certainly on its way to the Black +Sea, where they would coast it down to the Bosphorus, and so on by the +Hellespont and the Archipelago, to Zante. + +♦ ZANTIOTE BOAT ♦ + +I had already learned from the captain that beyond Rutschuk, the banks +of the Danube were low, marshy, and wholly destitute of interest, +especially for one who had passed through the splendid scenery between +Moldava and the Iron Door. I was informed, moreover, that if I went as +far as Silistria, I should have very little chance of finding horses +there, and would run the risk of being even inhospitably treated by the +Russians, who might suppose that I had some political purpose in view, +in paying their garrison a visit. I therefore resolved to take a passage +in the Zantiote boat to Rutschuk. The Italian informed me that the men +to whom it belonged were perfectly trustworthy and civil, and that as +I was an Englishman, and in some degree a fellow-subject of theirs, I +might depend upon the best accommodation they could afford me. + +♦ ADVENTUROUS CHANGES ♦ + +It was no very welcome change to pass from the comparative luxuries +of the steamer--from a good mattress, excellent dinners, champagne, +and the fascinating society of the Count, to an open boat, manned by +Greek carpenters, with whose conversational language I was wholly +unacquainted. But my anxiety to “go on,” superseded all other +considerations; and there was, moreover, an adventurous character about +the transition, which was not without its influence upon a mind fond of +examining the phases of human character in every shade of society. The +Servian Jew we had left at Vidin; the Moldavian poet had been for some +days laid up with a nervous fever. But when he heard of my resolution, +he crept up on deck to take leave of me. + +♦ SEPARATION ♦ + +As the Zantiote boat, which to me, at first, appeared like a little +black speck in the distance, approached, I desired the Italian to +hail it, and inquire whither they were bound. His former companions +immediately recognised him, and they pulled up, within quarantine +distance, of the steamer. They said that they were on their way home; +that they had two Turkish passengers; one for Nicopolis, the other +for Rutschuk; that they would be very happy to afford me a passage, +if I would accept it, as far as I pleased, and that I might depend +upon their utmost attention. The goodhumoured look of these Ionian +islanders confirmed me in my determination, and I much surprised the +Count, who with Mr. Tasner, was busily engaged in writing, when I went +to communicate to him my plans, and to bid him farewell. Though not +prepared for so sudden a separation, he saw at once that the opportunity +of so soon pursuing my voyage to Rutschuk ought not to be thrown away, +as he confessed that he was not very certain of being able to go +overland to Bucharest or Giurgeva. Having already made the journey to +Constantinople from Semlin, he gave me some useful instructions as to +the mode in which I should proceed, and directed the captain, who was +acquainted with the Wallachian language, to furnish me with a letter to +the agent of the Steam Navigation Company at Rutschuk. + +♦ IONIAN LUXURIES ♦ + +Having taken leave of my friends, I descended into the Ionian boat, and +was instantly separated from them by the bar of quarantine. The crew of +the steamer assembled, and cheered us as we departed, and the Count, +whose kindness to me I shall never forget, waved his handkerchief until +we were veiled from his view by the increasing dusk of the evening. +The vessel in which I found myself seated was a large, strong, open +boat, in which there was a company of seven hardy well-looking men, who +occasionally relieved each other at the oars and the helm. Three hoops +were stretched over the centre of the vessel, and over these was spread +a thick mat formed of dried reeds, which served as an awning. Beneath +this canopy my Turkish fellow-passengers were seated on carpets. They +received me with the utmost civility, and made room for my portmanteau +and carpet-bag, which I converted into a sofa. Near me was a sack of +walnuts, which offered no mean apology for a pillow. + +♦ A GRAVE MISTAKE ♦ + +My new friends immediately offered me some grapes and bread, which I +declined, but which reminded me that I had committed a grave mistake +in not having provided myself for the remainder of the voyage from +the larder of the steam-boat. One of the crew, who seemed to be their +captain, opened his chest, and took out of it a large thick blanket, +which he wrapped carefully around me. The night was cold, and the +moon in its first quarter gleamed on the swarthy faces of my Turkish +companions; one of whom, a military officer, was an extremely handsome +man. The stars were all out, and we had so much light that we pursued +our way until ten o’clock, when we stopped for the night near a Turkish +village. + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + Zitara Palanka--Turkish hospitality--Interior of a caffiné--Mahometan + devotee--Orisons--Race of Tartars--Social variety--Turkish khan--The + nargillé--Supper--Woman--Seclusion of the sex--Eating in the dark-- + Visiters astonished--A general invasion--Return to the boat--New + acquaintances--Nicopoli--Night scene. + + +Soon after daybreak (October 9) our men were at their oars, which +they plied with a degree of vigour and determination very different +indeed from the annoying and invincible indolence of my Wallachian +acquaintances. The morning was sunny and cheerful; but the banks of the +Danube no longer presented any scenery worth observation. The Balkans +had altogether vanished from our view, and there was not a hill, or +even an eminence of any kind to be seen. + +My breakfast consisted of a piece of excellent brown bread, and some +dried curds, which I afterwards often found in Turkey and Greece, as a +substitute for cheese. The captain, perceiving that I had brought no +provisions with me, seemed pleased to perform for me all the duties of +a host; placing near me a wooden bowl, filled with curds, a brown loaf, +and a wooden canteen replenished with wine. I preferred, however, the +pure element below, whenever I had occasion for it. To be sure, this +frugal fare was a change from the well-served board of the steamer; but +I consoled myself by thinking, that good living was not always conducive +to health, and that a fast now and then is among the best prescriptions +which a doctor can furnish. + +♦ ZITARA PALANKA ♦ + +Towards noon we put in to a Turkish village, which the crew called +Zitara Palanka. We went ashore to get a supply of provisions; the +Turkish officer who wore the red Greek cap, his pistols and ataghan +stuck in the silk scarf with which his loins were belted, and his long +pipe in his hand, took me under his protection. The village was a small +straggling place, consisting of wooden houses, most of which were shops +for bread, curds, butchers’ meat, soft goods, groceries, fruit, rock +salt, dried skins, shoes, boots, and slippers. We went to the caffiné, +or coffee-house, before which we found three or four Turks sitting on a +mat, in a rude sort of balcony, the floor of which was slightly elevated +above the level of the street. They were well-looking men, and they +received my friend and myself with a salam full of good nature, and, at +the same time, not without dignity. + +♦ TURKISH HOSPITALITY ♦ + +The pipes were all immediately put into requisition, and coffee was +brought to us in china cups, my only objection to which was their +minuteness. The beverage was served without sugar, the latter being a +luxury in which Turkish villagers seldom indulge. My friend observed, +at once, that I did not much relish my coffee in this way, and ordered +sugar to be brought. But there was none to be found in the caffiné, +until “mine host” procured some from a neighbouring shop. With that +addition the coffee was very good, and I found three or four cups no +unwelcome illustration of my philosophy of fasting. A considerable store +of curds, bread, and grapes, was purchased by my military companion, +who would not suffer me or any other person to contribute to the sum +which he paid for it, though he intended it for the common use of the +passengers and crew. The grapes were large and well flavoured, but they +would have been much better if they had been kept a little longer in the +sun. I rather pressed a few piastres on my friend, as my share of the +day’s expenses, but he would allow me to pay for nothing, and looked as +much as to say, “you will offend me if you insist.” + +♦ INTERIOR OF A CAFFINÉ ♦ + +The interior of the caffiné consisted of one large room, divided by a +low railing into three boxes, if I may so call them, within which mats +were spread. At the side of the room, opposite to the door, was the +fireplace, arched at top, not level with the floor, but raised nearly +breast high, for the greater convenience of making coffee. The fire was +of wood, and on one side a large tin pot held water constantly boiling. +On the other side was an earthen pot, containing roasted coffee reduced +to a fine powder by the aid of a pestle and mortar. Whenever a cup of +coffee was ordered, it was prepared in two or three minutes, uniformly +by itself, in a small saucepan. + +♦ MAHOMETAN DEVOTEE ♦ + +A beggar-woman, who shifted herself along the street upon a pair of +low crutches, exhibiting a picture of the most squalid misery; three +or four ragged boys, and a wild-eyed dwarf, came to gaze at me with +astonishment, hearing that I was an Englishman. The village has a +mosque, with the usual accompaniment of a white minaret, crowned by +a tin spire. It was a wretched building. The road through the street +was the natural sod, trod into dust and hardened by use. With all +these symptoms of poverty there appeared every where an abundance of +all the necessaries of life, and a degree of personal ease, or rather +indifference, about the inhabitants, who, by the way, were mostly armed +in the Turkish fashion, which induced me to conclude, that, though so +remote from the haunts of civilization, even Zitara Palanka was not +without its share of the general happiness bestowed by a benignant +Providence on mankind. + +We returned to our boat, and there being a light breeze in our favour, +we hoisted a sail. I had a favourable opportunity of observing the +practical influence of the Mahometan faith, in the demeanour of one +of my fellow-passengers, named Noureddin, who wore a green turban, +long gray beard and moustaches, a tattered brown cloth pelisse, and +wide blue trousers, patched all over. I understood that he was on his +way to Constantinople, intending to ride on a donkey from Rutschuk to +Varna, whence he would proceed by sea to the Bosphorus. After visiting +the principal mosques at Stamboul, he was resolved to join one of the +parties of pilgrims who usually sailed at this season of the year for +Alexandria, thence to proceed on foot to the shrine of the prophet at +Mecca. He was therefore a “devotee;” and I must confess that I have +never seen any Christian so constantly so fervently animated as this +Mussulman was, by the all-absorbing consciousness that he lived and +moved in the presence and under the immediate protection of the great +Creator of the universe. + +♦ ORISONS ♦ + +Noureddin watched for the rising sun having previously spread his carpet +(about the size of one of our hearth-rugs) on the floor of the boat. +Turning his face towards the east, he stood wrapped in pious meditation. +The moment the sun appeared above the horizon he knelt down, prostrated +himself three times, kissed his carpet, and then remaining on his knees, +said some prayers which were manifestly poured out from the fulness of +his heart. When these orisons were concluded he again thrice prostrated +himself, kissing his carpet each time. He next rose and repeated a few +prayers standing. Then folding up his carpet, he sat down and told his +beads. + +♦ RACE OF TARTARS ♦ + +On the contrary, my military friend seemed to have no thought whatever +of religion. Though dressed in the scarlet uniform of an officer of +rank, and that splendidly too, his pistols, sword, and ataghan being +richly mounted in gold, and his highly ornamented cartouche-box being +suspended by a cord of gold twist, nevertheless he sometimes smiled at +the ardour displayed by Noureddin. I afterwards learned that he was in +fact a Tartar, a race of men who are met with every where in Turkey, +are usually employed in the most confidential subordinate offices of +the state, and are identified with the Turks in manners as well as in +religion. But in the practices of the prevailing faith they are cold and +negligent from habit, or rather perhaps from their general intelligence +which has elevated them above the koran. He displayed in his cincture +the oldfashioned brass case for ink, and pens formed of reeds, which +he civilly requested me to use instead of my pencil, when he saw me +writing notes in my journal. He examined my silver tube on the new plan, +containing lead alone regulated by a screw, with great curiosity. He +also looked over my journal, apparently wondering how I could make any +use of the characters, to him wholly unintelligible, with which my pages +were crowded. + +♦ SOCIAL VARIETY ♦ + +The scenery of the Danube continued desolate on both sides. Occasionally +we saw amongst the islands immense flocks of wild ducks and geese, the +latter of an extraordinary size. Our boat proceeded down the current +at a very fair rate. I dined on bread, curds, and grapes, read for some +hours, and wrote with my friend’s reed and ink the paragraph which is +now under the eye of my “gentle” critic. In the course of the afternoon, +Noureddin twice repeated his orisons and ablutions, always with the same +unaffected sincerity of devotion. The captain of the crew, who though +their acknowledged master in all things requiring regulation, seemed in +every other respect upon an entire equality with his companions, read +to them while the distended sail permitted them to lay up their oars, +popular fables from a small octavo Romaic Greek book, which appeared to +attract their general attention. Now and then he interpolated between +the sentences a short commentary of his own, which uttered with a +roguish smile made them all laugh. The day continued to its close +warm and beautiful, and though I devoted some thoughts to the esteemed +Hungarian friends whom I had so lately left, as well as to the case +of champagne which they had not yet exhausted, yet I must acknowledge +that I shared, without a murmur, in the simple fare, as well as in the +contented, I might say the happy feelings of the people around me. + +♦ TURKISH KHAN ♦ + +At half-past six we stopped for the night, and landed, by the light +of the moon, near a small village, where my Tartar friend gave us to +understand we should meet with excellent accommodations. The path led +us by an old fortress, near which the khan was situated, we found the +owner standing outside, and he showed us a ladder by which we ascended +to an open balcony covered with mats. He then took a key out of his +pocket and opened a door through which we entered a large room, divided +as usual by low railings into several compartments, one of which, +however, was considerably elevated above the rest, and was covered with +a finer mat. The embers were still alive in the fireplace, which exactly +resembled the hearth already described, except that it had a reservoir +beneath for the ashes. I sat down upon the edge of the elevated box. My +fellow-passengers, and most of the crew who came with us, took off their +shoes in the middle of the room, and then seated themselves in the usual +attitude of Turks, in one of the lower compartments. + +♦ THE NARGILLÉ ♦ + +Coffee was served without sugar, but my friend, more provident than +myself, produced from beneath his cincture a little paper of sugar, +which he gave me. Noureddin smoked the hooka, or nargillé (_i. e._ fire +and water), the bubbling noise of which was peculiarly disagreeable +to my ear. This instrument resembles a large carved glass decanter, +in the neck of which two small tubes are inserted. One of these tubes +communicates with an elastic pipe which reaches the mouth of the smoker; +the other tube terminates at the top of the decanter in a small cup, +called the _loulé_, in which the dried leaves are placed, whose essence +is to be extracted. These leaves usually come from Shiraz; they are a +species of tobacco much relished by Turks, but when ignited, the smoke +is so rancid that they are obliged to purify and mitigate it by passing +it through water. The two tubes inserted in the neck of the decanter +descend halfway down the vessel, and the remaining half is _nearly_ +filled with water. Thus the suction through the elastic pipe and one +of the small tubes draws down the smoke from the loulé, which, after +depositing all its impurities in the water, passes into the mouth of the +operator. + +♦ SUPPER ♦ + +In the course of an hour supper was brought in, which consisted of +chicken stewed and served in a savoury sauce, hot bread, hot buttered +cakes, and boiled rice, which I found by no means unpalatable, +notwithstanding my recent conversion to the Pythagorean system. These +dishes were cooked by the female branches of the family, in the lower +apartments of the house, which to us of course were inaccessible. Even +in the most obscure villages of Turkey the custom of secluding the +women from every place frequented by man is most rigidly observed. +I began already to feel the sombre colour, which this national law +imparts to the external appearance of every Turkish community I visited. +Men--constantly men, and nothing but men, were to be seen every +where--so much so that I got quite tired of looking at them. + +♦ WOMAN ♦ + +I am one of those who think that without Eve there could have been no +Paradise. Indeed, I sincerely consider woman as a creation standing in +the scale of existence between us and the celestial spirits. She excels +us greatly in purity and ardour of feeling, in tenderness of heart, in +absolute unchangeable devotion to every object of her affections. As +parent, wife, or daughter, there is a sacred intensity of soul in the +performance of all her duties, that prevents her from bestowing even +a thought upon the exertion or the difficulties with which they are +attended. If there were no female in the world there could have been +no genuine religion. She has received from her Creator a temperament +for the belief in mysteries, and for the conversion of the most sublime +doctrine into practice, which man will never rival. Equally fitted for +society or solitude, the ornament of the cottage as well as the palace, +guided by the impulses of good sense, which are better for the routine +of every day than our most elaborate reflections, the calm and secure +harbour of every good and noble thought amid the storms of life, woman +was given to us that she might constantly point the way to a better +world. + +♦ SECLUSION OF THE SEX ♦ + +The systematic absence, therefore, of that portion of the inhabitants +from the group which were to be met with in the bazaars and shops +and coffee-houses, often cast a cloud upon the enjoyment which I +might otherwise have derived from the novelty of the scene. It is +not, however, as some travellers have represented, a custom peculiar +to Mahometan manners. It existed in ancient Greece, and continues +there still. It prevails very much in Wallachia, where the religion +of the prophet never acquired any influence. In fact, all over the +East, as I am informed, it is deemed a violation of traditional and +well-established notions of delicacy, rather than of any rule of the +koran, for a female, especially before marriage, to appear in public +without an imperative necessity, and then not without being closely +veiled. + +Before we dipped our fingers in the dish, we washed them, our host +pouring out water on them from a jar with one hand, while the other +supplied us with a towel. This operation tended in some degree--a very, +very small degree I must confess, to reconcile me to the further process +of dividing the members of our prey with my greasy friend Noureddin, and +two or three of our crew. I could also have excused the attentions of +the Tartar, who really meant to be most friendly, when he selected from +the middle of the stew a couple of legs for my approbation. However, +cautiously avoiding the part which he touched, I found the remainder +very pleasant. + +♦ EATING IN THE DARK ♦ + +From circumstances which afterwards took place, I inferred that perhaps +it was as well that while we sat upon the mat to supper, I could not see +all the contents of our dish very plainly. The light, a solitary candle, +was stuck in a sconce by the side of the elevated fireplace, and lent to +us but a feeble ray. Nor can I even now think without horror upon the +courage with which, adopting the manners of my companions, I immersed +my bread in the sauce after the more solid materials had vanished. The +bread was unleavened, and hot, having been just baked for us on the +hearth in the harem below. It was prepared in large cakes, which were +broken into pieces, and arranged round the dish. The buttered cakes +formed the second course, but I did not touch them, as they appeared not +to have been cleanly made. I supped chiefly on the boiled rice, which +I ate with a wooden spoon, and finished off with grapes and coffee. +When the pipes and hooka were again resorted to, some Turks came in +who seemed to be acquaintances of the Tartar. They appeared glad to +see him, and after conversing with him at some length, one of them who +spoke a little Italian, asked me if I were an Englishman. I answered of +course in the affirmative. He then asked me how long it was since I left +England. I told him that after my departure from London I spent some +time in Paris, which I had quitted exactly a month ago. My interrogator +and his friends looked quite astonished at the expedition with which I +had so far accomplished my journey. But when I added that I lost nearly +the half of that month in delays of one kind or another, and that when +the steam navigation of the Danube should be completed, I might hope to +make the whole journey from London to Constantinople in fourteen days, +they gave up any further inquiry into the matter; it was altogether +beyond their comprehension. + +♦ VISITERS ASTONISHED ♦ + +Preparations were made for our stay at the khan during the remainder +of the night. A flock bed was brought up from below and spread for +me in the elevated compartment. It was covered with a wadded silk +counterpane, to which a foul sheet was sown on the inside. A large +greasy-looking pillow was placed at the head. I felt an instinctive +reluctance to commit myself for some hours of unconsciousness to the +keeping of this concern; but as all my companions were either preparing +for repose on the mats which they occupied, or were already wrapped +in sleep, I took off my coat, hung up my cloak over my head, and got +under the counterpane. But I was not long in my position before I was +apprized of the presence of numerous intruders. The reader may imagine +my uneasiness, although they did me the honour of simply marching in +multitudes over my face and hands, for I happen to be one of the human +race whose blood, for some unaccountable cause, they are uniformly +compelled to spare. An immense cat came also to share my couch; but to +her company I objected at once without the least ceremony. + +♦ A GENERAL INVASION ♦ + +Matters being in this situation, and new colonies swarming around me +every moment, I started up and performed a series of pirouettes on my +bed, until I disencumbered myself of some at least of my too curious +acquaintances. Noureddin meanwhile awoke, and having succeeded in +lighting the candle by blowing into a flame an almost extinguished +ember, which reflected a Rembrandt brightness on his gray beard and +swarthy cheek, proceeded to smoke his hooka, whose bubbling sounds were +by no means music to my ear. I hid myself in my cloak, applying to my +soul the flattering unction that I might thus avoid all my enemies, +and laid down outside the counterpane. Happily the dogs of the village +had held an aggregate meeting, wherein they agreed that the Englishman +should have no sleep that night, and straightway they despatched a +radical deputation to present to me their impertinent address. I say +“happily,” because I had scarcely remained half an hour listening +to their clamour, when, peeping out from my place of concealment, I +beheld the walls at my head and at my left hand literally black with +many armies, bent on fresh hostilities. I was struck with horror. Even +Noureddin was astonished. There was no alternative but to return to +the boat, and I cannot soon forget the obliging manner in which my +proposition to that effect was immediately adopted by all parties, but +not before my cloak had undergone a thorough cleansing. + +♦ RETURN TO THE BOAT ♦ +♦ NEW ACQUAINTANCES ♦ + +It was midnight when we found ourselves once more beneath our matted +canopy. The pure atmosphere, and my couch formed of my portmanteau, +carpet-bag, and pillow of walnuts, were delicious after the close and +populous prison from which we had just effected our escape. I fell +into a profound sleep, from which I never awoke until six o’clock +in the morning. I then washed my face and hands in the Danube, and +felt as joyous as the day itself, which was splendid. As the men had +resumed their oars soon after our return to the boat, we had made +good way during the night. The banks of the river continued flat and +wholly devoid of interest. We did not meet even a single wherry on the +water to interrupt the dulness of the scene. Now and then, indeed, we +encountered large dark green water-snakes, swimming against the current, +by the undulating motion of their tails, holding their heads carefully +out of the element. If we attempted to strike them with an oar, they +dived instantly, and reappeared a few minutes after at a considerable +distance. Large flocks of wild ducks also passed, high over our heads, +which sometimes produced a singular effect by their wings glistening in +the distant hazy air. + +♦ NICOPOLI ♦ + +About five o’clock in the afternoon we came in sight of Nicopoli, a +considerable Turkish town, remarkably well situated upon a range of +hills rising above a bay in the river. The Wallachian shore looked +marshy and desolate; but on our right the hills were abrupt, and so +chalky in appearance as to remind me of the cliffs at Dover. The whole +range forms a semicircle, at the foot of which are the waters of the +bay. At a distance these hills looked like a series of fortresses, each +cluster of cliffs resembling redoubts and towers admirably adapted for +defence. The town is surrounded by strong ramparts in good repair, and +well mounted with cannon. We landed. My Tartar friend, having procured +a donkey, rode away after consigning me to the care of Noureddin, and +wishing me farewell in his best manner. The crew laid in a fresh stock +of bread and grapes. Noureddin led the way to a caffiné where the +nargillé seemed all the rage. It was crowded with Turks. This (Friday) +being their sabbath, all the shops with the exception of those of +the butchers, bakers, and fruiterers, were shut in the market-place. +Noureddin ordered coffee and a sausage. When the latter was produced, +half heated through, I did not much relish its appearance; it found +still less favour in my eyes when I saw that Noureddin had no other +means of dividing it than by pulling it asunder. The coffee I could not +take, as it was without sugar, and, the grocers’ shops being closed, +none was to be had. + +I was proceeding alone to take a view of the interior of the town, +when I met a Moldavian, who addressed me in French. He advised me not +to go into the town, as the Turks were extremely jealous of strangers. +He told me that he had come from Galacz, on his way to Giurgeva, where +he had business, but that the boat in which he performed the voyage +was prevented from going further than Nicopoli by the want of water +in the Danube. He added that it would be quite impossible for us to +proceed further down the river, as a little below Nicopoli there was +hardly any water at all. While we were talking, a Servian, dressed in +the European fashion came up, who also spoke French. I inquired of him +whether it would be possible for me to procure any thing in the shape +of a good dinner in the town; he answered with a smile that the thing +was quite impossible. I expressed my regret that I could not even get a +cup of coffee, as there was no sugar to be found any where; upon which +he pulled a piece of dirty blue paper out of his pocket, in which was +carefully wrapped a small lump of sugar. He very kindly offered it to +me, but as the article was so scarce, and in his sample of it not very +inviting, I declined his civility. The Moldavian hung about me for some +time, for what purpose I could not guess, until at length he produced +what he called a coin of the Byzantine empire, which he offered me for a +Napoleon. I was too well prepared for this species of dealing, to afford +his bargaining propensity the slightest encouragement. + +The captain of our vessel came to me to state that as the river was so +extremely low, he could not think of departing from Nicopoli until next +morning. But as I did not choose to put up with this delay, I insisted +on our resuming our voyage without further loss of time. As to the +deficiency of water, we did not require more than two or three inches +to keep our boat afloat: if we could not find that depth we must drag +the boat along until we passed the shallow, which had been described to +me as extending to no great distance. The moon would soon be up, and +therefore we could make the experiment by night as well as by day, and +at all events it would be attended by no danger. He pointed out to me +eight or ten vessels in the little bay, which it was found impossible to +move: nevertheless he yielded to my wishes, and we set off at half-past +seven in the evening. + +♦ NIGHT SCENE ♦ + +For about an hour after our departure the bottom of our bark was +perpetually in contact with the rocky bed of the Danube; so much so +that we were pushed rather than rowed along We then found ourselves in +deep water, and as there was no further difficulty to be encountered, +I consigned myself to repose. I awoke, however, about eleven, when I +perceived that the helm was abandoned, the crew were all fast asleep, +and the vessel was left to take its own course down the current. The +moon exhibited but half its orb, and veiled behind a thin haze was +lingering on the edge of the horizon. I took the helm for a while, +but every thing in nature looked so sleepy, that I returned to my +couch, and gathering my cloak and blanket around me submitted to the +general destiny. I opened my eyes again about two o’clock, when I +beheld Noureddin standing near the helm, praying in an audible voice, +his hands stretched towards the stars which were glowing in all their +splendour above his head. The boat was still gadding slowly wherever +the stream directed it: so turning away from the starlight, I again +courted, and not in vain, the charms of forgetfulness. + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + Sistow--A delusion--New friends--Good fortune--Greek civility-- + Wallachian merchants--Supper--Amicable discussion--Gil Blas--Wallachian + ambition--Chief of the Tartars--Striking a bargain--Equestrian + preparations--Greek v. Greek--Shops of Rutschuk--Valley of repose-- + Bulgarian peasants--Gipsies--Going astray--Cogitations--Resolutions-- + Bulgarian girls--An alarm. + + +♦ SISTOW ♦ + +The labours of our crew were recommenced at daybreak (Oct. 11), and +at nine o’clock we came in sight of Sistow, which was still mantled +in gossamer vapours. Here and there the sunbeams pierced through the +mist, and shone upon the spires of the minarets. Sistow is beautifully +situated. A range of magnificent hills commences a league or two west of +it, and extends a considerable way along the right bank of the Danube. +The town, rising at the water’s edge, winds its way up the undulations +of the eminences, which seem destined by nature for the reception of +clusters of human habitations. After ascending for a while the houses +are then lost, then they appear again higher up, the whole protected by +a citadel, which crowns the summit. These hills are all well wooded, and +extremely picturesque. + +The Danube here presents a fine sheet of water; so deep, too, that four +or five Russian merchant-ships were proceeding, without difficulty, +towards Sistow. We met again several water-snakes swimming up against +the current. At half-past three we came in sight of Rutschuk, to my +infinite satisfaction, and in two hours after our boat was moored amidst +a number of Russian, Turkish, and Greek merchant and fishing vessels of +every size, which presented an appearance of considerable commercial +activity. + + [Illustration: + _Printed by C. Hullmandel._ + Pest to Roustchuk. + _London, Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, 1835._] + +My captain volunteered to accompany me to find out the agent to whose +care the commander of the steam-boat had recommended me by letter. We +walked for some time through the town without meeting any person who +could give us information as to the agent’s residence. When first I +beheld Rutschuk at a distance with its numerous mosques and minarets +shining in the sun, rising on a bold promontory from the edge of the +vast expanse of waters formed by the Danube, I felt confident that it +was a wealthy, populous, active, cleanly, and handsome city, which +I should experience great gratification in examining. Never was my +imagination more deceived. A more poverty-stricken, deserted, idle, +filthy, ill-contrived town does not exist, I believe, even in Turkey. +All the habitations, with the exception of the greater part of the +shops, are literally turned outside in. That is to say, the streets on +each side present only lines of dead walls, without even a window to +relieve their desolate appearance. The “fronts” of the houses are all, +as an Irishman might say, “backwards,” opening to a courtyard, which is +entered by a gate. + +♦ A DELUSION ♦ + +In Spain the private residences are built in the form of a square, with +an open space in the middle, but still fronting to the street. The +streets of Rutschuk look like the ways through a fortress, nothing but +wall on each side, except where the gates here and there interrupt the +dull uniformity of the stone and mortar. I now, for the first time, +understood the truth of the phrase, that the Turks were only “encamped” +in Europe. This is literally the fact. Almost all the towns which I +afterwards visited in Bulgaria, as well as in Romania, were constructed +on the same plan, evidently with a view to self-defence, for every house +was in itself a fortress. + +♦ NEW FRIENDS ♦ + +At length we chanced to meet a Greek, whom my guide saluted in his own +language. Upon the superscription of the letter being shown him, he +said that he was very well acquainted with the person to whom it was +addressed, but the agent’s residence was at some distance from where +we stood, and he refused to conduct us to it until the morrow. This +specimen of indolence was too ridiculous not to betray its real motive. +Of course I immediately produced a piastre, which without any further +negotiation gave motion to his feet, and he led us through one or two +streets to a gate, which he opened without any ceremony. We entered a +large square, on each side of which were houses belonging to different +families, including a public inn, in the balcony of which several Turks +and Greeks were smoking and sipping coffee. One of the latter, a short, +thick, cunning-looking fellow, dressed in my own way, saluted me at +once in excellent French, and offered me his best services. I gave him +the letter, and sad he would oblige me very much if he could tell me +where the individual lived for whom it was intended. He answered me by +pointing out another Greek who, also dressed as a European, was sitting +on the mat opposite to him. The letter was immediately read by the +agent, who promised to show me every civility in his power. I felt quite +relieved from the difficulty in which I had been placed, and adding one +to the party enjoyed an excellent cup of coffee. + +♦ GOOD FORTUNE ♦ + +The Greek who first addressed me was the only person present who +spoke French. He said that he had only arrived two days ago from +Constantinople, and that if I were bound for that capital he would be +happy to do every thing necessary to facilitate my progress. Here, +thought I, is another striking instance of the good fortune which has +attended me throughout my journey. I was wholly unacquainted with the +Turkish and modern Greek languages; I travelled without a companion +or a servant who might compensate for my deficiency in that respect; +and yet, though my ignorance might have been followed by the greatest +embarrassment, in a town where I was an utter stranger in every sense +of the word, I had the good luck to meet with this man, who in a moment +dispelled from my mind every apprehension of delay or inconvenience. + +♦ GREEK CIVILITY ♦ + +I had seen enough of the world to be able to perceive that my Greek was +already calculating, within the interior of his own breast, how much he +was likely to gain from an English traveller by this adventure. But I +cheerfully accepted the offer of his services, well knowing that I must +pay for them, and that perhaps I was destined to submit even to some +degree of imposition. But civilities and attentions, rendered especially +under such circumstances, are well worth their price. I explained to him +that I was most anxious to continue my journey with the least possible +delay; that it was necessary for me to engage a Tartar and the usual +number of horses, and that if it were at all practicable I should wish +to proceed that evening on the road to Constantinople. This, he said, +was altogether out of the question, as no Tartar could supply me with +horses without a firman from the pacha, who was already shut up for the +night in his harem with his family, and would not be accessible until +eight o’clock the next morning. + +♦ WALLACHIAN MERCHANTS ♦ + +Meanwhile the agent had my luggage brought to the khan, and having +desired my Greek to thank the Ionians for their hospitality and kindness +during my late voyage, I presented them with a gold ducat, with which +they seemed perfectly satisfied, observing that they much regretted I +was not to accompany them any further. I felt a little depressed on +bidding farewell to these kindhearted islanders, whom I looked upon as +my fellow-countrymen. The agent then conducted me to his own house, +my Greek having promised to be with me at seven o’clock the following +morning, in order to make all the requisite preparations for my journey. + +I met at the agent’s house four or five Wallachian merchants from +Bucharest, who, under a cunning aspect, that seemed to inquire, “Can we +gain a ducat or two out of this Englishman?” appeared, nevertheless, +very agreeable men, and disposed to pay me every kind of attention. They +all spoke a little French; seemed respectable in their way; and guests +in the house, which I assumed to be a private sort of hotel for Franks. +The room in which we sat was a large one, containing a divan, extending +along two of its sides, which was spread with cushions, covered by +white cotton cloth. Two rickety tables were brought in, upon which, +after a little delay, supper was served for the Wallachians and myself, +our host, and three or four brothers, or other relatives, who lived with +him. + +♦ SUPPER ♦ + +Our first course was stewed mutton and cabbage, which, after three days’ +Lenten fare, I found very acceptable. Next came some fried fish, which +was not bad either; then a piece of roast-beef, so tough that it defied +even Wallachian powers of mastication; and finally, a dish of boiled +rice, mixed up with some curdled milk, which was not at all to my taste. +These viands were exhibited in pewter dishes, and we had each a pewter +plate, a pewter spoon, and a steel knife and fork, which I considered as +a decided improvement upon my late mode of living. We had for dessert +some large flavourless grapes. The wine was, to me, undrinkable; but a +bottle of white rum was produced, which, mixed with water, compensated +for the want of a better beverage. + +♦ AMICABLE DISCUSSION ♦ + +While we were taking our coffee, my intended movements were discussed. +My new friends had, as they said, lately arrived from Constantinople; +and they assured me that I should find my ride over the Balkans a +much more serious affair than I appeared to imagine. They had no doubt +that by this time the mountains were covered with snow and ice, and as +in addition to these refrigerators, I should most probably encounter +piercing winds, that would freeze the blood in my veins, they agreed, +in the first place, in condemning my cloak as wholly inadequate for +my protection against the inclemency of the weather. They further +unanimously recommended that I should purchase a cloth pelisse, lined +throughout with fur, a fur cap, boots lined with fur, and a fur +waistcoat. If, in addition to these articles, I provided myself with a +_muff_, a mattress, a warm rug, a strong blanket, and a store of rum, +I might, perhaps hope to effect the passage in safety, provided I wore +arms. When I confessed that I had neither sword, stiletto, nor pistol, +they all held up their hands in astonishment, and exclaimed, that I +should by no means omit to purchase a carbine, and a pair of pistols +at the least, before I set out, otherwise I should have no chance of +escaping the savage banditti who infested the forests of Mount Hæmus! + +♦ GIL BLAS ♦ + +The favourite book of my youth was Gil Blas; and I could not but feel a +secret delight in recalling the philosophy of that unrivalled production +to my assistance on the present occasion. I was, in fact, much amused +by the combination in which they were all engaged, in order to practice +on my simplicity; but I listened with great attention to every thing +they had to say; though I could hardly refrain from laughter, when, as +I fully expected would be the case, one produced a threadbare Russian +pelisse, which he had _never_ worn; another a pair of old jack-boots, +lined with fur; another offered to dispose of the fur cap, which he had +at the moment on his head; another brought forth an assortment of sabres +and firearms, pressing me on the spot to offer a round sum, about fifty +ducats, for the whole! I observed that I must take time to consider +their very obliging propositions; being inclined, at all events, to +negotiate for a pelisse, as I had reason to suppose that so much of the +autumn could not have passed over without leaving its usual snows on the +Balkans. + +After supper, the tottering tables were removed, and the night being +brilliantly fine, mine host and his friends and guests amused themselves +in walking up and down the courtyard; some talking, some singing Greek +songs, one playing on a flute, and another strumming a guitar. It being +Saturday evening, they all appeared in a festive mood. I sat in the +balcony, gazing upon the scene before me and on the domes and minarets +around shining in the moonlight, with a sort of feeling which, I might +say, induced me for the moment to doubt my own identity, transferred as +I was thus suddenly from people to people. + +♦ WALLACHIAN AMBITION ♦ + +Before we retired to rest there was a general muster of all the people +in the house in the principal room; when the conversation happened to +turn on the actual state of Turkey. The Greeks maintained that their +nation was rapidly rising once more to the ascendancy which they +formerly possessed in that part of Europe, and that as they were certain +of the assistance of Russia, they had no doubt that they would be soon +again masters of the whole of the old Greek empire. They said all this +with a degree of confidence, which plainly showed that the subject had +long formed a general topic of conversation in Wallachia, and that it +was a theme by no means unacceptable to the ear of the autocrat. There +is a Greek church at Rutschuk, which they told me was usually well +attended. The hour of repose was at length announced when the Wallachian +merchants and I proceeded to occupy the places assigned to us on the +divan. + +♦ CHIEF OF THE TARTARS ♦ + +I rose betimes in the morning (October 12), when I found my Greek friend +already waiting to receive my orders. It was necessary for me to pay my +respects to the chief of the Tartars, in order to arrange with him for +a guide and for horses to take me to Constantinople. I was told that I +might, with a little exertion, accomplish the journey in three days, +and that, allowing a horse for myself, one for my Tartar guide, one +for my luggage, one for the postilion, and one for relief, that is to +say five horses in all, I might easily obtain the whole for the sum of +fifteen hundred piastres. I proceeded to a caravanserai wholly occupied +by Tartars, attended by my Greek, who pointed out to me their chieftain +seated in a balcony smoking his pipe. He was seated at a table, and +on the opposite side I discovered a countenance not unfamiliar to me, +which turned out to be that of my late Tartar fellow-passenger, who had +arrived here overland the evening before. Doubtless he had prepared his +tribe for the approach of an Englishman, and accordingly, the first +principles of the negotiation were laid down upon a basis of three +thousand piastres. Nothing less could be taken. + +♦ STRIKING A BARGAIN ♦ + +My Greek, who doubtless had also his slice out of the bargain, and who +had instructed me the evening before that I ought to pay no more than +the sum I have first stated, now suddenly went round to the other side, +and declared that considering all things, especially that if I could +procure no horses, it would be impossible for me to quit Rutschuk, +advised me, if I wished to conclude the matter speedily, to make an +offer at once of the highest sum I meant to give. I then proposed two +thousand piastres; but ultimately the sum agreed upon was two thousand +five hundred, about £25 sterling, which was to include all expenses +whatever. Half was to be paid down; the other half at Constantinople. +When it is considered that the distance from Rutschuk to the capital +is about three hundred and fifty English miles, that I was to be +attended the whole of the way by a respectable Tartar guide who was +to be responsible with his head for my safety, that we were to have +several relays of five horses on the road, each relay accompanied of +course by a postilion, that the Tartar was to defray all charges, and +that after seeing me lodged at a hotel in Pera, he was to return to +Rutschuk with a certificate of my arrival, and of his own good conduct +on the journey, it must be admitted after all that the bargain was +not unreasonable. When it was concluded, the chief undertook all the +necessary arrangements about my passport, or firman, and promised that +my horses should be ready in two hours. + +♦ EQUESTRIAN PREPARATIONS ♦ + +In the mean time, I had to equip myself with a saddle, bridle, whip, +straps and cords, and a pair of strong boots, all of which the Greek +procured for me. It so _happened_ that there was not a saddle or bridle +ready mounted to be had in the town, except those which my Greek had +himself used on his late journey from Constantinople, for which he +had the modesty to demand four ducats. I was obliged to submit to his +imposition, but I must do him the justice to say, that though very well +inclined to extract as much as he possibly could out of my purse, he +would not suffer any body to rob me in the ordinary way but himself. +When I consulted him about the pelisse and pistol affair, he laughed +outright. He had crossed the Balkans only a few days before, there was +not a particle of snow upon them. As to the banditti, it was probable +enough there might be some Bulgarian marauders in the forests, but they +would never dare to attack my Tartar. + +♦ GREEK _v._ GREEK ♦ + +He then took me to the apartments which he occupied, where with the +assistance of an imp, whom he called his servant, he manufactured a +couple of tumblers of egg-coffee, and enabled me to make a tolerably +good breakfast in what he denominated the European style. He took my +luggage under his care, saw it carefully packed on one of my horses, +and besides assisting me to get rid of my Wallachian friends--who, +contrary, I must add, to the expressed wishes of my very worthy host, +again pressed upon me a whole wardrobe of fur, old pelisses, sabres and +guns--exerted himself in every possible way to expedite my departure. +With reference to the plague, he said that certainly some “accidents” +had occurred at Pera; but that the contagion was principally confined to +Constantinople. + +Though fleeced a little by this fellow I could not help being pleased by +his superior intelligence, his activity, and his useful attentions. Nor +did I think the less of him when, with a manly tear stealing down his +weather-stained cheek he entreated me to call upon his wife and little +girl at Pera, to assure them of his safety, and to say that after +performing his mission at Bucharest, he would speedily return home. He +wrote down her address in my journal as follows:--“Madame Catherine +Marcello à Arnout kioy a coté du l’Apothecaire sur la mer dans la maison +du Nicolaki Afesso. S’appelle demoiselle Effrdani.” + +♦ RUTSCHUK ♦ + +The horses having been saddled and all things prepared, about ten +o’clock I and my Tartar and postilion mounted, and rode quietly through +the town. The shops were all open, and exhibited a rich display +of military saddles and bridles, belts and cartouche-boxes, gaily +ornamented; of Persian carpets, Broussa silks, sashes, ataghans, pistols +beautifully mounted in ivory and silver, pipes with every variety of +amber mouthpieces, umbrellas, Greek caps, scarlet jackets, yellow +pointed slippers, gold-headed canes, fine cloths, woollen and cotton +stockings, and every article of grocery, fruits, vegetables, meat, fowl, +bread, fish, hardware and jewellery. The floors of these shops were +usually elevated above the level of the street, and the owners and their +assistants sat inside upon the floors, some working as tailors, some +as saddlers, and artisans of the ordinary trades. In several of these +shops, which were well stored, I saw nobody attending. They were quite +open to the street, as when the shutters are taken down there is no +glass window to prevent any person who chooses from entering. + +♦ VALLEY OF REPOSE ♦ + +I had already noticed this peculiarity to my Greek friend, who said that +it was observable throughout Turkey, where those petty larcenies so +common in other countries were never heard of. He added, moreover, that +perhaps the forests of Mount Hæmus excepted, I might travel alone all +over Turkey, my portmanteau filled with gold, and unlocked, and that I +should not lose so much as a ducat by robbery. His information on this +point was perfectly correct. The Turks will gain as much as they can in +making a bargain with foreigners, or with each other, but they never +think of stealing money, or indeed property of any description. + +As soon as we passed out of the town we put our horses to their speed, +alternately trotting quickly, or galloping almost without interruption +until one o’clock in the afternoon, when we reposed from the heat +of the day in a valley admirably suited for that purpose. It was of +considerable extent, surrounded on all sides by craggy precipices. A +brook rushed rapidly through the middle of the valley from one of the +neighbouring heights. A caravan consisting of twenty or thirty waggons, +laden with wattles, mats, fruits, and merchandise of every sort, had +already stopped here to take advantage of the coolness of the shade, and +the freshness of the torrent, whose waters were delicious. Their oxen +were drinking from the stream, or ruminating upon its banks. Groups of +families belonging to the caravan were formed here and there; the men +smoking, the women preparing their dinner round a fire, or washing linen +in the brook, the children playing about and shouting. Other travellers +who had rested their appointed time, amongst them some Turkish troopers, +leading beautiful black Arabian horses, were preparing to resume their +journey. My Tartar and I sat down behind a waggon, which protected us +from the rays of the sun, until our horses were sufficiently refreshed. +We then galloped on as before. + +♦ BULGARIAN PEASANTS ♦ + +Our road, which was only marked through the open country by the tracks +of wheels and of the hoofs of oxen and of horses, passed over low hills +and valleys, occasionally patched with brushwood. About three o’clock +we stopped at a solitary Bulgarian khan, where we found a number of +ragged peasants, with their families, drinking white rum and water under +a shed. They all came forth, upon our riding into the yard, and in a +fawning servile manner welcomed the Tartar. A mat was spread for us in +a rude balcony, which was protected by a roof of reeds from the sun. +While we were resting here, one of the peasants who was intoxicated, +though he had scarcely a fragment of shirt to cover his nakedness, his +long hair matted by filth upon his forehead, and a long staff in his +hand, approached as well as he could, to make our acquaintance. The +Tartar took up his whip and lashed his feet soundly, until some of his +companions came and took him away. + +♦ GIPSIES ♦ + +Two female gipsies, dressed in the usual costume of that mystic race, +next appeared standing by our balcony. I could not discover whence they +so suddenly came. They were not deficient in the browned ruby cheek, the +black eye, and swelling bosom which distinguish the tribe. They bore +also long staffs[1] in their hands, and evinced a desire to disclose +to us our future destinies. But they spoke laughingly, as if they +were convinced that they had very little chance of imposing upon our +credulity. Upon the Tartar’s returning their invitation with a shake of +his head they went away, disappearing through the hedge which separated +the yard from the neighbouring field. + + [1] The peasant sometimes places his staff upon the back of his + shoulders grasping it tightly at the same time with each hand lifted + as he walks. In this manner it affords relief to his back and chest, + and also supports his arms. + +♦ GOING ASTRAY ♦ + +A waggon was standing in the yard, which was hurdled in all round, and +filled with a noisy multitude of cocks and hens on their way to the +market. I had a most refreshing drink of spring water flavoured with +rum, from a clean wooden bowl, after which our dinner was served to us +in the balcony, consisting of black bread, hard eggs, very fine onions, +and the best salt I had tasted since I quitted England. I asked for +some grapes, but none were in the house, which seemed well stored with +Indian corn hanging in bunches from the roof. I dined heartily, and with +renovated energies galloped away as soon as our frugal meal was over. + +The afternoon was delightfully fine, neither hot nor cold, but of that +medium temperature which makes the blood tingle in its circulation +through the channels of the frame. Having been so long confined to +vehicles of various descriptions, I enjoyed the free air and the +boundless greensward, over which I was riding. My horse too, though a +poor miserable-looking hack, refreshed by a good feed, and an hour’s +rest, cantered along in a spirited style. On starting I rode on before +my Tartar and postilion, firmly persuaded that my horse knew the road +to Shumla as well as either of them. For a while I heard them galloping +behind me, but the sound ceasing to reach my ear, I looked back, and +to my consternation beheld not a creature within the whole range of my +horizon. I waited for a while, and then rode back two or three miles +without meeting any body. I concluded that I had lost my road, and +entered another beaten track, to which my horse, however, manifested +several very intelligible objections. I took counsel with him, leaving +the bridle on his neck, when he deliberately turned round, and followed +his own course. + +♦ COGITATIONS ♦ + +My mood of mind at that moment was by no means enviable. I had no means +of ascertaining whether I was in the right way to Shumla, or whether, as +I almost apprehended, from the alacrity of my horse, we were returning +to Rutschuk. As I had missed my Tartar and postilion, whither had they +gone? Would they ride forward to Shumla to inquire for me, or would +they return to Rutschuk, satisfied with the sum already paid, in order +to justify themselves by stating what was the truth, that my parting +from them was my own act? They had all my luggage, and even my cloak; +how was I to cross the Balkans without any protection against the +reputed inclemency of these mountains? They had, moreover, some little +remembrances of my journey, which I had bought for my wife and children, +the loss of which I believe I should have regretted more than any thing +else. I possessed, indeed, enough of gold in my pocket to defray my +expenses to Constantinople, but I knew not a syllable of the language +spoken by the Turks, and was equally ignorant of that in use amongst +the Bulgarians. How was I to inquire my way? How was I to make any body +understand what I wanted, when it would be necessary to procure fresh +horses, and even the scanty meals with which I must be contented on the +journey? Was it quite safe for me to travel alone, and if not, how and +where was I to meet with a new guide? + +♦ RESOLUTIONS ♦ + +These questions passed rapidly through my mind, but I came to the +conclusion that at all events, I would go on. The country rose gradually +into hills, which indicated that I should soon be in sight of the +Balkans. I met some shepherds tending their goats, to whom I shouted +the word “Shumla,” and then pointing along the track in which I was +riding, inquired by this gesticulation, if I were in the right road; to +which they seemed to answer in the affirmative, by pointing the same +way. This information removed a heavy burden of doubt and anxiety from +my mind. The sun had already set, and twilight was fast fading away; +but I allowed my horse to get on after his own fashion, trusting to +a benignant Providence for protection, and consoling myself with the +thought that I was engaged in an adventure which seemed pregnant with +interesting incidents. + +♦ BULGARIAN GIRLS ♦ + +My romantic anticipations were by no means dispersed, when, descending +into a valley, I arrived at a fountain, round which several Bulgarian +girls were assembled with pitchers. They seemed to wonder very much +“what manner of man” I was, and I could not help admiring their +beauteous large black eyes and dark hair, which fell in plats on their +shoulders, ornamented with pieces of silver coin. Some wore similar +ornaments in their ears, connected together by beads of coral. They were +dressed in linen or flannel tunics, marked with a red cross on the left +breast, to show, I presume, that they were Christians, and therefore +not obliged to wear the veil. They seemed, however, extremely shy; +though curiosity, which characterizes the sex in every climate, now and +then tempted them to take a peep at the solitary stranger. I prevailed +on one of these damsels to allow me to drink out of her pitcher; but as +soon as they filled their vessels, which they did in a great hurry, they +commenced a general flight. + +♦ AN ALARM ♦ + +I felt very much inclined to follow them, satisfied that they lived +in some neighbouring hamlet, where I might spend the night, when I +was alarmed by the sound of two shots, which rapidly followed each +other, at some distance. Looking round towards the eminence from +which I had myself just descended, I saw in the increasing dusk, a +horseman, galloping wildly as if he were pursued by a whole troop +of banditti. Holding his pistol in his hand, he directed his course +towards the fountain, when, looking at me with a frightened aspect, his +lips trembling, his forehead bathed in perspiration, he threw himself +down from his horse upon the ground, where he sat for a few minutes +perfectly motionless. It was my Tartar! I hardly knew him, so changed +was the expression of his countenance, so disordered was his turban, +and his whole dress, as if he had just fled from a field of battle. My +postilion appeared soon after, leading the baggage horse, but the fifth +was missing. It was soon explained, that the horse which he had ridden +all the day fell on the road soon after our departure from the place +where we had dined; that every effort was made to get him on his legs +again, but that after losing a great deal of time in the experiment they +were obliged to abandon the animal; the more so, as from my imprudence +in hastening on they found it necessary to come in pursuit of me. The +Tartar’s head was at stake, which he would probably have lost had he +not fortunately overtaken me. I blamed myself for causing the man so +much tribulation, though the occurrence was one of those mere chapters +of accidents which now and then are to be found in the history of every +man’s life, be he ever so circumspect. + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + A boorish group--Night quarters of a caravan--Shumla--An intrusion--An + angry Turk--Balkan roads--Difficulties of the way--Forests of Hæmus-- + Banditti--Terrors--Descent of the Balkans--Dinner--Karnabat--Gipsies-- + Catching a Tartar--A fiery bedroom--A decent khan--Supper. + + +♦ BOORISH GROUP ♦ + +Having all refreshed ourselves and our horses at the fountain, we +remounted in the bright light of the moon, which almost renewed the +day. There was a balmy softness in the air which was quite luxurious; +and as we galloped along I experienced a confirmed confidence in the +goodness of that Providence to whose parental vigilance we are all so +constantly indebted. We arrived at Rasgrad about eight o’clock at night, +and stopped at an inn; where, as usual, we were shown to the open +gallery, which communicates with all the upper apartments; the lower +being entirely secluded from observation, and occupied by the family. +A room was assigned to our use, but it was fastened on the outside by +a padlock, the key of which could nowhere be found. A foolish-looking +clown, with thick lips and staring eyes attempted to open the lock with +an immense knife, but without effect. The master at length came, and +forced the hasp out of the door, which then permitted us to enter a +tolerably good apartment. We sat upon the floor, and took coffee, while +a fresh set of horses were prepared for our journey. + +At midnight, having galloped for nearly four hours without cessation, +we arrived at a solitary hut, in which we espied a light. My Tartar +generally contrived to have a rest and a pipe, at least, at that +interval, and we accordingly dismounted. The door was upon the latch, +and going in, we found a great log of wood burning in the middle of the +floor, round which five peasants were sleeping. A boy was awake, to +take care of the fire. We sat down without any ceremony, and enjoyed +the warmth of the chamber, as the night was cold. My Tartar, who was +a fine-looking man, though somewhat bulky for a courier, had bound a +silk handkerchief round his turban, to preserve it from the dust. Over +the usual military dress he wore a large blue cloak, which he wrapped +round his shoulders in the Spanish fashion. His pipe was a plain rod of +cherry wood, with a red earthen head. Taking out his pistols and sabre, +which were fastened within his cincture, he laid them on the floor, and +proceeded to smoke, as if he felt himself quite at home. + +♦ NIGHT QUARTERS ♦ + +One of the peasants, disturbed by the voice of the Tartar, who directed +the boy to go and fetch a fresh pitcher of water from the well outside +the hut, opened his eyes and looked at us with ludicrous astonishment. +An expression of terror kindled gradually over his countenance when +he beheld the pistols and sabre glistening in the light of the fire. +He shrunk into a corner, where he sat upon his haunches, apparently +incapable of comprehending where he was, or how he could best make his +escape. He then awoke his companions fearfully, who one after another +gazed upon their unexpected visiters with a sort of awe, as if they were +persuaded that it was all over with them, and we were come to sacrifice +them without further inquiry. They must have been marauders, for their +own consciences were evidently the most immediate sources of their +alarm. Having rested a while and slaked our thirst from the pitcher of +cool spring water, we pursued our road, to the great delight of these +boors, who were quite happy to get rid of us. + +♦ OF A CARAVAN ♦ + +We rode for about two hours, when the night became so dark that we could +hardly see each other as we galloped along. Perceiving some fires among +brushwood, at a distance, we directed our horses towards them, and found +several men and women sleeping near burning piles under the shelter +of the shrubs and brambles. In the dark ground behind was a large +caravan of waggons and numerous oxen resting for the night. We were +most hospitably welcomed by these people, who were immediately awoke by +the salute of the Tartar. He seemed to be well known to them, and they +placed mats for us by the side of their fire. We dismounted and sat +down, when some cakes of excellent brown bread were brought. A whole one +was put into my hands, and then a wooden keg was presented to me, from +which I took a draught of the most delicious water I ever tasted. + +♦ SHUMLA ♦ + +We waited here until the dark clouds with which the sky was overcast +travelled away, and the stars shone out. The Tartar had much to say +to his friends. He did not forget to relate to them the story of our +accidental separation, which induced them to look at me earnestly, as +much as to ask, though in a kind manner, “How could you have done so?” + +We were now at the foot of the Balkans, which, after mounting our +horses, we began to ascend by the light of a few stars that twinkled +dimly in the heavens. The road was rough and winding, but the horses +seemed well acquainted with it, and the distant lights of Shumla, +now glimmering on the heights like a single taper, now scattered in +various directions, cheered us through the difficulties of the way. We +arrived at that celebrated town at four o’clock in the morning, amidst +the barking of some hundred dogs, and rode to an inn, where we were +immediately accommodated with coffee and apartments, the people being +already up and stirring about the business of the day. + +I had my rug brought up, and laid on the floor. Having then satisfied +myself by examining the panelled partitions of my chamber, that it +had no communication with any other room, I locked my door, having +previously entreated that the labours of a lad, who was pounding coffee +in a mortar below, should be suspended. Placing my portmanteau at my +head I lay down much fatigued, hoping that I might have a few hours +of refreshing sleep. I had scarcely slept an hour, however, when just +as the light of day was coming in at my window, a door which I had +not perceived at the head of my couch, opened, and a great Turk, half +dressed, stepped over me. I presumed that seeing me there he would not +think of remaining in my room to disturb my repose. But I was very much +mistaken; for, approaching the window, he sat himself down near it in +an armchair, having ejected from the said chair very unceremoniously my +coat, waistcoat and suspenders, of which I had disencumbered myself. +Then calling through the window to his servant, he ordered his hooka +to be brought, and crowned his impertinence by giving way to a violent +cough with which he was afflicted. + +♦ AN INTRUSION ♦ +♦ AN ANGRY TURK ♦ + +When the servant came, he could not, of course, open the door, as it was +locked inside. The Turk was obliged to get up to open it, an exertion +which annoyed him excessively. I had, moreover, the misfortune, on +shutting the window before I lay down, to break a pane of the glass in +endeavouring to close the frame that opened on a hinge, of which all the +nails were loose. Here was another theme for his anger, which became +violent. Every person belonging to the house was summoned to account for +this occurrence, which was the more deeply resented, inasmuch as it was +calculated, the morning being raw and misty, to increase the invalid’s +malady. I, at length, gave them to understand that I was the offender; +upon which the Turk threw himself back in his chair, took the end of his +hooka in his mouth, and bubbled away as loud as he could, determined +to revenge himself by rendering it impossible for me to sleep. In this +object he effectually succeeded. I continued prostrate, however, until +seven o’clock, when I rose and breakfasted capitally on brown bread +and a bowl of boiled milk. There was a waggon in the yard, filled with +grapes, which a Turk was preparing to tread out. A tub was placed +beneath to receive the liquor, in which state, before the process of +fermentation begins, it is a favourite beverage all over the country at +this season of the year. I went to the waggon, and selecting a cluster +of the grapes, helped myself, looking at the same time round for +some person to whom I might pay the price of them. The owner made his +appearance with a very surly frown on his face; but when I tendered him +some pieces of silver, he, with a very different expression of feature, +not only refused them, but picking out two or three of the best clusters +he could find, substituted them for the inferior one which I had chosen +for myself. + +♦ BALKANS ♦ + +We set out at eight o’clock in the morning, (Oct. 13) slowly ascending +the mountains. I had no opportunity of examining the fortifications +which Hussein Pacha was said to have erected at the side of the town by +which we had entered. On the side towards the Balkans I perceived no +symptoms whatever of warlike preparation, though the abrupt precipices +beneath which we rode for a while afforded the most favourable +positions for defences that might, I should suppose, be rendered almost +impregnable; as, from the nature of the ground, it would be difficult +to bring artillery to bear upon them. Passing into the more open +country, we found it pretty well cultivated; the people were gathering +the vintage every where, so that, during the whole day, we obtained +abundance of fine grapes merely by asking for them. My limbs were a +little jaded from riding so many hours at the rate we had hitherto +travelled; but, as we were now constantly ascending, we were obliged +to slacken our pace. I was therefore by no means so much knocked up as +I had expected. My Tartar gave me reason to hope that we should arrive +at Stamboul on the evening of the following day, provided we could meet +with good horses. + +♦ DIFFICULTIES OF THE WAY ♦ + +The road through the mountains would certainly not have been deemed +practicable for an English saddle-horse. It was simply marked over +the natural rock by frequent use, no care whatever having been for +one moment expended upon it, even for the purpose of removing the +loose stones, or breaking down the more prominent masses. Sometimes we +rode over a track polished like ice by the winter torrents, on which, +when ascending, we were obliged diligently to take a zigzag course, +when descending, to allow the animal now and then to slide at his own +discretion. On other occasions, the near foot might be seen on a pointed +rock, while the off leg was about to pounce into a hole, the hinder +hoofs making the best of their way through boulder-stones, as if playing +with them at marbles. + +♦ FORESTS OF HÆMUS ♦ + +It seemed to me, at first, an improper hazard of life to attempt to +ride over such a road as this, where the horse and rider, even going +at the most stealthy pace, were every moment in peril of being dashed +to the ground. But the animals, though in England the whole five would +not be deemed worth as many pounds, were so well accustomed to the +business which they had to perform, that, be the disposition of the +track what it might, they never by any chance made a false step. Their +intelligence, prudence, courage, and extreme watchfulness for their own +safety, as well as for that of the lives intrusted to their keeping, +were wonderful. No human being could have executed their office with the +uniform success which attended all their movements. So rapidly did they +gain upon my confidence, that, on levels or even on declivities, I did +not hesitate to follow my Tartar’s example, when, with a view to recover +the time lost in ascending, or to escape quickly from a pass through +a dense part of the woods, whence banditti sometimes fire upon the +traveller, he absolutely galloped over these smooth or broken masses, +both equally dangerous, as if he were flying for his life. + +♦ BANDITTI ♦ + +Nothing in nature can be more beautiful than the variety, especially +towards the close of the autumn, of the hues that distinguish the +shrubs and trees which compose the forests of Mount Hæmus. On one side, +as if for the purpose of ornament, an eminence rising gradually from +the torrent bed over which we rode, and extending towards the heavens, +was clothed to its summit with the most magnificent shrubs, tinted with +all shades of colour, light gold, russet brown, silver ash, pale green, +scarlet red, orange, and the incomparable blue of the iris. Amidst these +shrubs the convolvulus and other flowering creepers suspended their +festoons of bells, rivalling the delicate white of the lily, or the +transparent pink of the wild rose. + +On the other side the thick forests sometimes below us, sometimes +threatening to march down upon us from their tremendous heights, rank +long grass, ferns, and brambles, branches interlacing with each other, +old trees fallen in all directions and scathed by the lightning, +rendering them impenetrable, seemed, indeed, peculiarly fitted to be +the haunts of robbers. The assassin has only to place himself behind +the trunk of a tree, wait until the wayfarer appears in view, then +deliberately take his aim, and he can hardly fail to bring down his +victim. Pursuit is altogether out of the question. Retaliation would be +equally impracticable, as the murderer could not be seen. The traveller +who is best armed, as in this case my Tartar was, is usually selected +for the first experiment. The discharge is the signal to the whole band, +who are stationed at their posts along the edge of the forest to be +ready to fire at the remaining fugitives; and then, when all danger of a +contest is over, the work of plunder commences. + +♦ TERRORS ♦ + +My Tartar and postilion were in a perfect fever during the whole +time we were riding through these passes. We galloped the whole way, +whether up or down the declivities. Sometimes the road was occupied +by caravans, and we were obliged to mount narrow and broken pathways, +which we found or made upon its edge. But even over these tracks, where +there was scarcely room for the horse’s hoof, we flew with a speed +which must have betrayed their terror. I do not affect to say that I +was myself altogether free from alarm; but I confess that I thought a +great deal less of perils from banditti than from the rocks over which +I was obliged to pursue my companions. It was emphatically one of those +instances of which I have occasionally seen other examples in the course +of my life, where in order to escape visionary dangers, real dangers +were incurred of a much more serious description. + +♦ DESCENT OF THE BALKANS ♦ + +Heated and fatigued with our steeple chase, we at length rested on the +summit of the lofty range on which we had been travelling all day, +in a hut formed of planks inserted perpendicularly in the earth, and +roofed with tiles, inhabited by a solitary old man who supplied us with +coffee. In the evening we descended towards the lower ranges of the +Balkans, which succeed each other like so many undulations, varying +in height, but almost all destitute of trees, here and there speckled +with brambles, sometimes covered with heath, but wholly unfit for any +purpose of cultivation. My Tartar, therefore, had no longer any fears +of banditti. We occasionally saw in the sheltered valleys considerable +encampments of gipsies, but these wanderers excited no apprehension in +his mind. Indeed they appeared every where much more intent on enjoying +the pleasures of music and dancing, or preparing their meals at the +fires which were lighted near their tents, than in meditating attacks +upon travellers. At the same time we prudently avoided making their +acquaintance, being quite satisfied with the distant view of their tents +and fires, and the groups moving around them--objects which in every +climate are so picturesque--and with the sound of their pipes, violins, +hurdygurdies and tambourines, intermingled with the regular stamping of +the dancers, and the shouts of men and children, which echoed in joyful +tones through the otherwise desolate mountains. + +♦ DINNER ♦ + +Our horses having behaved so well in conducting us without accident, +and with such fearful expedition over the first and highest ridge of +the Balkans, I urged the Tartar to stop and allow them to be fed at one +or two hamlets through which we rode. But my entreaties were in vain. +He seemed to have no feeling whatever with respect to the unfortunate +animals, except to urge them on as far as he could within the shortest +possible space of time. I insisted, however, upon justice being done to +them, and dismounting at the first house, looking like an inn, which I +met on the road, I refused to go further until the horses were provided +with corn. He observed, that if the horses were to dine there so also +must I, a proceeding, however, to which I objected, as we were not then +more than two or three leagues distant from Karnabat, a town of some +importance in Romania. However, he gave orders for dinner. An unhappy +hen who was amusing herself sauntering about the farm-yard, was laid +hold of by our landlady, who having gashed the jugular vein with skill, +dipped the body into boiling water, plucked off the feathers, and in +about an hour presented the victim to me boiled to rags, in a wooden +bowl, which looked so filthy that nothing could induce me to touch +its contents. A wooden tray was also brought with coarse dirty salt, +half-baked black bread, and a rusty knife. I resolutely deferred dining +until we should stop for the night at the town already mentioned. The +Tartar took his usual meal of bread, hard eggs, and onions; and when he +saw that I would scarcely even look at the fowl, he deliberately wrapped +it up in some paper, and put it into the haversack, which dangled from +his saddle--“a very useless precaution,” thought I, “for if you do not +eat it yourself, I am quite sure that nobody else will!” + +♦ KARNABAT ♦ + +We remounted about seven o’clock in the evening. Our horses at first +got on very well but after exerting themselves for an hour or two, it +became evident that the toils of the morning among the rough roads of +the mountain had literally knocked them up. Even at a moderate pace we +ought to have reached Karnabat at nine, but it was past eleven before +we entered its gates, though we had seen the lights of the town the +whole evening. I was a good deal fatigued, less from riding, which never +affects me, than from the labour which it cost me to push my miserable +horse forward. His limbs seemed to have lost all their vital supply of +lubricity. Every step was a stoppage. I should have greatly preferred +walking, if that had not been rendered impracticable by my Turkish +jack-boots, with pointed toes, which, as well as the heels, were turned +up, so as to give the sole the complete form of the segment of a circle. + +♦ GIPSIES ♦ + +However I looked forward to the hope of finding good quarters at +Karnabat, as most of the towns of Romania, being inhabited principally +by Turks, are of a better description than those in Bulgaria, which I +had hitherto visited. The proportion of Mussulmen in the latter province +is not considerable, and is dispersed through Vidin, Nicopoli, Rutschuk, +and Shumla. The great mass of its population consists of the Sclavonian +race, who profess to be Christians, but who appear to have scarcely any +houses of worship. + +♦ CATCHING A TARTAR ♦ + +The southern valleys of the Balkans seem to be favourite abodes of +the gipsies, who occupy them without any fear of disturbance. How +these people, who neither spin nor weave, nor cultivate the earth, +clothe themselves so well, and accumulate the abundance of vegetables, +flesh-meat, fowls, and rum, with which they are always provided, is to +me as great a mystery as the origin of their tribes, and the purpose for +which they are endowed with migratory dispositions, apparently destined +to defy all the powers of civilization. + +The conduct of my guide during the day did not tend to raise him very +much in my esteem. Upon alighting for the night, I was not long in +finding out that I had indeed “caught a Tartar.” We stopped near a +mean-looking house; upon the door being opened, I saw that it consisted +of only one room, in which eight or ten persons were already sleeping, +and an immense fire was blazing in an oven, in which bread was about to +be placed. Had the information of my Wallachian friends, of fur boot and +pelisse memory, been at all correct with reference to the inclemency of +the Balkans, I should probably not have very strongly objected to the +neighbourhood of the oven. But as the fact was, that in crossing these +mountains, I not only saw neither ice nor snow, but found it impossible +even to wear my cloak, on account of the intense heat, which even at +this hour of the night was but little mitigated, I refused at once to +expose myself to the danger of being baked on one hand, and poisoned by +the atmosphere of so many companions on the other. Besides, I perceived +there no chance whatever of a good dinner, of which I really stood very +much in need. + +♦ A FIERY BEDROOM ♦ + +The moon was shining brightly in a cloudless sky, and after parleying +for a while with my Tartar, who understood, or seemed to understand, +very little of my Italian, I said that if he did not conduct me to a +respectable inn, I should endeavour to find one for myself, and that +moreover I should report him to his chief for his behaviour. He declared +that there was no other inn open in the town at that hour of the night, +and that he would not go in search of one. Kindling his pipe, he sat +down outside the door, and said that from that house he would not +depart. In the mean time the owner went out and borrowed a feather-bed, +which he displayed before me with great triumph; and he added that if +that would not do, he had even a magnificent hooka at my service, which +he had also borrowed for the occasion. I could not help being pleased +with the kindness of this poor Turk, but no temptation whatever could +induce me to enter the furnace which he called his house. + +♦ A DECENT KHAN ♦ + +I walked up the street as well as I could in my boots, my whip in my +hand, to see what I could do for myself. Some six or eight fellows +followed me chattering, and one or two going before me, seemed resolved +to prevent me from proceeding further. I calmly applied my whip to their +legs, and dispersed the whole group in an instant. After I had searched +about in vain for a while, the Tartar at length came to find me, and +seeing that I was inflexible in my purpose, he conducted me to a khan +of the first class, where I was delighted to find some appearance of +decency. + +♦ SUPPER ♦ + +We knocked for a while before we were admitted, and we had some +difficulty in finding vacant places on the divan, as the inn was +crowded. But two Turks, in the most civil manner, yielded us their +stations in the principal chamber, and adjourned for the remainder +of the night into another room. My supper was served about half-past +twelve. Poached eggs floating in oil were first brought, which I +could not reconcile by any effort to my taste. A dish of boiled rice +next made its appearance, together with a bowl of milk, which I found +excellent. Pickles were appended to the rice, but I had no fancy for +them; and then some hard eggs made their appearance, which constituted +the principal part of my meal. I closed this operation with a glass +of hot rum-and-water, after which, wrapping myself up in my cloak, I +lay down on the cushion of the divan, and slept profoundly till seven +o’clock the following morning. + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + My companions--Kind attentions--Famine--Annihilation of a fowl--Living + upon nothing--Disturbance--Still life--Consternation--A desolate + town--Turks at prayers--Dinner--Alarming Rumours--Chorlu--The sea of + Marmora--Silivria--Street scene--A factotum--News of the day--Tartar + generosity--Negotiations. + + +My companions were all Turks, apparently of a very respectable class +in society. Besides the divan which afforded couches to six or seven +persons, two others had mattresses on the floor. + +♦ MY COMPANIONS ♦ + +There was no want of fresh air in the room, as several panes of glass +were broken in the windows. Indeed one whole frame which was papered all +over fell in during the night, and had the temperature of the external +atmosphere not been peculiarly mild, one of my new acquaintances, over +whose face the morning breezes were playing, might have suffered from +the accident. + +As soon as I emerged from the folds of my cloak, I became an object of +general attention to these gentlemen. One presented me immediately with +his pipe, and looked very much astonished to find that the first thing I +did on opening my eyes was not an act of conformity with the universal +custom of smoking. Instead of a chibouke, however, I ordered a napkin +and some water, which was brought to me in a pewter dish, and after +making my toilet in the best manner I could, I proceeded to write my +journal. My memory being full of the incidents of the preceding day, I +of course wrote with great rapidity, being much more anxious to set down +all the matter, than to impart to it any form of style. They followed +my movements with surprise, the more especially as my mode of writing +the characters from left to right was the reverse of their own, and they +could not conceive how it was possible for me to create any character +at all with the silver instrument which I held in my hand, and which +borrowed no assistance from the ink-bottle. They smiled at each other +as much as to say, “These Englishmen are the strangest beings in the +world, they have ways of their own for every thing.” + +♦ KIND ATTENTIONS ♦ + +I unscrewed my pencil and showed them the mode in which it was +constructed. Simple as it was they could scarcely be made to comprehend +it. I very much regretted that I had not brought a few of these +instruments with me for the purpose of presenting them to such persons +as these, whose civility and good nature deserved every return I could +make. While I was performing my ablutions one would hold the dish, +another the napkin. A third ordered coffee for me. Then the pipe was +again and again offered. My objection to this grand luxury of Turkish +life seemed to them unaccountable. Then my suspenders became objects +of examination, as well as my moveable shirt collar, and my black silk +cravat. When I finished dressing by putting on my blue cloth cap, they +seemed to look upon my _tout ensemble_ as a complete puzzle. + +♦ FAMINE ♦ + +After breakfasting on a bowl of boiled milk, three or four eggs, and +very good brown bread, I proceeded on my journey through the lower +ranges of the Balkans. These mountains and valleys are almost wholly +unpeopled. The few huts which we passed in the course of the day were +of the most miserable description. The country is every where so barren +that the human beings who are scattered over it, few though they be, +have scarcely any thing to live upon. We rode on until the afternoon +without being able to find any accommodation either for man or horse. +The fountains were all dried up, so that we could not obtain even a +draught of water, which would have been the more acceptable, inasmuch as +the day was inconveniently warm. At length we came to a little brook, by +the side of which we were delighted to sit down. The Tartar, though much +heated, stooped down and drank copiously from the spring with impunity. +I did not dare to follow his example until I had rested a while, when he +produced a bottle of rum. I prevailed on him and the postilion to empty +it of a portion of its contents, after which I filled it with water from +the brook. The mixture then was not only safe but truly delicious. It +renovated my appetite, which had been sickened by long fasting and hard +riding, but what was there to eat? + +♦ ANNIHILATION OF A FOWL ♦ + +My cunning Tartar then brought forth from his haversack the +much-despised, the abhorred fowl of the previous evening, together with +a loaf of bread and a paper of salt! After a little reflection upon the +vanity of all human resolutions, I was prevailed upon to sever a wing +from the breast, and to taste the inside meat, to which I could discover +no just objection. I tried a similar experiment with the other wing, +which I was forced to admit to be equally free from any fair ground of +impeachment. Both these members being pretty well dealt with, I thought +there could be no harm in extending my acquaintance to the breast, +which disappeared in due time. The legs next became objects of curious +inquiry, and fully answered my new-born expectations. The side-bones +and “merrythought” pleasantly reminded me of the “soul,” which soon +established to my entire satisfaction the truth of the Pythagorean +doctrine, by migrating under my own superintendence into a different +body. Finally the back yielded up its treasures, and though I was in +the land of Mahomet, I could not help being Catholic enough to pay my +compliments to the “pope’s nose.” When I thought of my late cackling +friend, who sauntered about with so fine an air of self-complacency, +now reduced to such a wonderful state of disorganization, I convinced +myself that her ladyship must have been guilty of some dreadful deed +in this world or some other, which caused her to be thus decapitated, +drawn and quartered, I may say annihilated with a degree of expedition +unprecedented in the “annals of crime.” + +♦ LIVING UPON NOTHING ♦ + +My guide, as usual, contented himself with hard eggs. How the postilion +fared it was no business of mine to inquire. I saw him at a distance, +chewing something. He had plenty of water, at all events, and so had our +horses; who, moreover, feasted on some brambles. I began to think that +Turkish horses have the peculiar faculty of living upon nothing; and as +they made no objection to going on, I thought it would be words thrown +away to attempt to persuade them of their folly in resolving to gallop +over these boundless wastes without so much as a straw in their inside. +A fresh relay at nine o’clock, which we procured at a wretched hamlet, +enabled us to pursue our journey rapidly the whole night; the moon +lighted our way until the morning came, and disclosed Adrianople in the +distance. + +From the various descriptions which I had read of this city, second +only to Stamboul itself, I had expected to find it characterized by +a considerable degree of splendour. The cupolas and minarets of its +numerous mosques undoubtedly do afford to the traveller, for some time +before he enters it, ample grounds for believing that he is about to +visit an important, well-inhabited, and flourishing town. But though not +wholly disappointed, this expectation is much attenuated by the time he +reaches his khan, after riding through the principal streets, which, +beyond the usual variety of shops, supply no materials for admiration. + +♦ DISTURBANCE ♦ + +I was feverish after my long uninterrupted ride, and mingled cold +water copiously with my coffee. The Tartar seemed to have no intention +of resting; but I insisted on being shown to a chamber, where I was +determined on remaining for five or six hours, even if I could not +sleep. By way of precaution I discarded all the pillows and cushions +which I found in the room, as they were by no means inviting; and +spreading my rug on the floor, with my carpet-bag for a pillow, I +enjoyed, for about two hours, a most delicious slumber. + +A rascally boy then came to knock at my door, which I had contrived, +very much to his astonishment, to fasten on the inside. I pretended +not to hear him for a while, suspecting he was a messenger from my +more villanous Tartar. But he knocked and pushed and kicked at my +barricades, until he succeeded in forcing the door a sufficient +distance from the jamb to enable him to take a view of my person. This +was impertinent. I therefore got up and let him in. Whereupon I laid +my whip upon his shoulders until he was very glad to make his escape +by jumping down a whole flight of stairs. The chatter of customers +in a butcher’s shop immediately under my window, the noise of people +walking and talking in the street, each group of gossips seeming to +have a particular fancy for stopping in my neighbourhood, the sound of +ungreased waggon-wheels, creaking over the rough roads below, the bellow +of oxen, and the occasional shouts of children, all conspired to assure +me that further forgetfulness was, for that day, out of the question. + +♦ STILL LIFE ♦ + +However, I continued in the attitude of repose, and as I could not keep +my eyes shut I amused myself in observing the still life of a tailor’s +shop opposite, which appeared to be the favourite lounge of all the +idlers of the town. The master and three journeymen were seated in the +Turkish fashion, which tailors have adopted in every age and clime. +Three visiters took their seats also on the board, smoking their long +pipes, and looking on with profound gravity at the perpetual passing +and repassing of the needles and threads through the cloth, which was +destined in due season to become a waistcoat or a pair of trousers. +Not a word escaped any of the party. A voluptuous, well-dressed, +fine-looking man, with a long gold-headed cane balanced in one hand, and +his immense pipe in the other, next made his appearance. He could not go +by the shop without “looking in.” Kindling his pipe, he also took his +station on the board, and while his charge of tobacco lasted, seemed the +happiest of mortals. When the last puff expired he quitted his seat, +walked down the street, paid a visit to a tinman, smoked another pipe, +came back, sat down again in the tailor’s shop, where he found the +whole party undisturbed, filled his pipe again, exhausted it, and then +seemed fairly at a loss to know what he was next to do. He looked up the +street, down the street, went out, came back, stood a few minutes at the +door in a state of listlessness, within a degree of petrification, and, +at length, resolutely disappeared. + +♦ CONSTERNATION ♦ + +Being somewhat refreshed, I proceeded to what I should call the kitchen, +but which the Turks treat as a coffee-room, where several Adrianopolites +were assembled, sipping their universal beverage, amidst clouds of +their fragrant tobacco. Here I learned, very much to my consternation, +that the Russians were in the Bosphorus, preparing to take possession +of Constantinople. I inquired by what means this intelligence had +arrived, as when I left Vienna nothing of that kind had transpired. The +answer was, that a courier from the English embassy had just passed +through on his way to Semlin, and that it was expected that England +would immediately declare war against the emperor. As all this was +conveyed to me in broken French and Italian, I concluded at first that +I misunderstood what was said, and that they were speaking of the +events of 1833, not of the present year. But I was positively assured +that the Russian fleet and troops had arrived a few days ago in the +Bosphorus, and that unless England should in time prevent them, they +would soon be the masters, not only of the capital, but of all Turkey. +While this conversation was going on they gathered gradually around me, +and expressed themselves quite anxious to know whether I thought that +my countrymen would really come to their protection. They appeared to +despair of being able to do anything in their own defence, and even +accustomed to the idea of resigning themselves to Russian supremacy, +unless England interposed in their behalf. I expressed my confident hope +that the intelligence was at least premature; but if it were true, I +conceived that not only England but France also could hardly contemplate +such proceedings with indifference. + +♦ A DESOLATE TOWN ♦ + +Our horses having been announced, we took our departure at noon, and +arrived at Burgas at four o’clock. This town has more of a European +aspect at a distance than any I had yet seen in Turkey. It boasts of +several mosques, and other public buildings of great extent, which give +it an appearance of grandeur. But on strolling through the streets I +found them almost a wilderness. The edifices which I had expected to see +inhabited as palaces, or used as public institutions, were abandoned +to the winds and rain. The fountains, which in a former age had been +beautifully decorated with marble, were thrown down and neglected. The +cloisters of the mosques, which in one or two instances were upon a most +magnificent scale, had become the safe abode of wild cats and dogs, +owls and ravens, whose croaking added not a little to the desolation of +the scene. The mosques were all out of repair. + +♦ TURKS AT PRAYERS ♦ + +A boy proclaimed, from the top of a minaret, in the usual terms,[2] the +hour of evening service while I happened to be at the gate of one of +these temples. It was immediately opened. Eight or ten wretched-looking +devotees emerged from different quarters of the cloisters, washed their +feet at the ruinous fountain, and leaving their slippers outside the +door, entered the mosque. I did not deem it prudent to follow their +example, as I was alone. + +But I stood unmolested at the door, which remained open. Lamps, like +those we use in illuminations, were lighted, suspended from the roof, +almost low enough to touch the head of a man standing. The thin +congregation were arranged in a semicircle, and all joined aloud in +prayers, in tones not unlike those in use among the Jews, but without +being quite so boisterous, and with every external appearance, at least, +of profound devotion to the great Father of the universe, towards whose +abode in heaven, their eyes were constantly directed. + + [2] _La Allah ila Allah, Muhammed Resoul Allah_ (No God but God, + Mahomet Prophet of God). + +♦ DINNER ♦ + +I dined on rice and haricot mutton, which, by the way, I had great +difficulty in compelling my Tartar to order, as he would have preferred +limiting my fare to eggs, which cost less money. He was a most penurious +caterer, and if by inflexible firmness I had not gained an ascendancy +over him, he would have starved me through the whole journey. I mention +these things in order that future travellers in Turkey may be prepared +to adopt the same course--the only one that will satisfactorily carry +them through the difficulties attending a journey in that country. +I think it may be assumed as a general principle, that though your +personal safety is assured in the hands of a Tartar, your digestive +organs will not have much reason to thank him, if he can help it. + +While I was engaged at my humble meal, several persons, as usual, +came to witness my operations. A meat dinner appears to be in Turkey +a public exhibition; but I must do my spectators the justice to say, +that the chief attraction of the scene was the national character of +the principal performer, whom they treated with the utmost respect. I +began to feel myself somebody of distinction, and to have doubts of +my personal identity, as all my habits and tastes were formed amid the +shades of life, wherever I could find them. But here I was invested with +a character which seemed, in the opinion of the Turks, to place me at an +immeasurable distance above themselves on the scale of existence. They +saw in me--a simple, dusty-coated, jack-booted, unshaven, travel-stained +equestrian--nothing but my country, of whose power to accomplish +whatever she resolves to do in any quarter of the world, they appeared +to entertain the most entire conviction. + +♦ ALARMING RUMOURS ♦ + +The report of the Russians being at Constantinople was here repeated +by every tongue. It was added, that a conspiracy had broken out there +about a fortnight before; that there had been much fighting in the +streets; that Pera had been again laid waste by flames; that the sultan +was a prisoner in the seraglio; and that the imperial flag of Russia +was waving over the seven towers. These additional circumstances +seriously affected the obstinacy with which I had hitherto treated the +whole story as a fabrication; I even began to think whether I ought to +proceed any further, as, if the news thus thickening upon me were true, +a solitary Briton would have little chance of safety within the walls +of Constantinople. However, I resolved to go on. As I was mounting my +horse, several of my new friends pressed their hands on my shoulder in +a warm and even affectionate manner, exclaiming, in energetic terms, +“England and the Sultan at Stamboul--the Russians _in the sea_!” There +was a slight “hurra!” when we rode off; and one of the Turks accompanied +me through the streets, pressing his hand upon my knee. The excitement +of this scene rendered me extremely anxious to learn the real state +of affairs at the capital. My host had procured for me, without any +solicitation on my part, the best horse he could find at Burgas--a fine +Arabian, as gentle as a child, as fleet as the wind, and almost as +indefatigable. + +♦ CHORLU ♦ + +We rode, without cessation, through the bright night for eight hours, +and arrived about three o’clock in the morning at Chorlu, where I was +shown into a filthy room in an outhouse, as I had no fancy for sleeping +in a stable. I lay down upon a mat on the floor, and slept soundly until +seven, when, after a good breakfast on eggs, brown bread, syllabub, and +grapes, which I found here remarkably fine, we resumed our journey with +fresh horses, very much inferior to those we had during the night. + +♦ SILIVRIA ♦ + +The morning was misty, but the sun soon shone out, and my heart bounded +with delight, when, on galloping along the ridge of an eminence, I +beheld, glittering in the distance, on my right, the waters of the +sea of Marmora. They appeared through the refraction of the misty +air as if they were in the sky, but the white sails stealing over +their surface convinced me that I was under no delusion. Those waters +would soon mingle with the Mediterranean, the Mediterranean with the +Atlantic, which washed my native shores. Some of those sails were most +probably lately from England, or now returning thither. These are +the associations which make an Englishman feel every where, when he +approaches the sea, as if he were once more at home! + +Our horses being very sorry animals, we were obliged, after the first +hour or two, to ride at a snail’s pace. Silivria, with its picturesque +castle and fortifications reposing on the vast blue lake of Marmora, was +in sight all day, but we did not arrive there until two o’clock in the +afternoon. The town was filled with Turkish soldiers, dressed in the +new uniform of the country--blue round jacket, vest, and trousers, the +red Greek cap with blue silk tassel, strong square-toed shoes, and white +cotton stockings. They presented a most unmilitary appearance, and I +concluded at once, from the reports with which my mind had been filled, +that they were flying in dismay from Constantinople. + +♦ STREET SCENE ♦ + +On dismounting at a caravanserai, which was midway down the principal +street, I was conducted to an open balcony, where mats were spread. The +scene before me was not magnificent. The street was shaded by a few +large trees, planted on each side. You may imagine how it was paved, if +you have ever seen a street in London when the pavement is _taken up_. +A stream of muddy water ran through the middle, leaving in its course a +pool near a dunghill, on the top of which an old pelican was strutting, +apparently the master of that position, much to the envy of a poor hen, +who was looking up at him wistfully, and also of a cat, who seemed to +be thinking how she could best dislodge the usurper. But he was on his +guard against both his enemies, now looking down on one, now on the +other, fiercely. + +♦ A FACTOTUM ♦ + +Two little pug-dogs were busy at a game of romps, running here and +there, grappling with each other, rolling each other over, biting the +back of each other’s neck, leg, or tail, without hurting it, barking in +well-feigned passion, the fugitive turning on the pursuer, who, in his +turn, affected a retreat. Some sturdy cocks were gadding about, crowing +at intervals, to remind the world of their importance. Geese and ducks +frequented the pool, and every time a cock crew they gabbled in chorus. +The sound made the pelican tremble on his throne. + +Seated on a stone near a gateway was a genteel, well-dressed Turkish +boy, afflicted by a nervous affection in the face, which every two or +three minutes drew up the right corner of his mouth close to his ear. +His whole occupation was looking at me, an occupation which detained +him on his stone three hours without a moment’s interruption. A little +way down the street was the tomb of a saint, a circular edifice, roofed +with wood, and railed all round; upon an elevated platform within, the +holy man was laid out in the dress in which he died a century ago. He +presented as yet no visible signs of decay, which proved his title to +canonization! + +An Italian, half idiot, half knave, wretchedly attired, the factotum +of the caravanserai, introduced himself to my acquaintance, and asked +me if I were not much fatigued, offering at the same time his services +to procure me some seawater, which he strongly recommended as an +application of sovereign power to any part of my frame that might have +been affected by the saddle. Although somewhat jaded I had no occasion +to accept his advice, though I should have been extremely glad to dip in +a warm sea-bath if such a thing were to be found in Silivria. Nothing of +the sort was to be had, but there was a vapour-bath, in which I might be +shampooed if I thought fit. But the sense of suffocation with which that +operation is attended, forbade the experiment. + +♦ NEWS OF THE DAY ♦ + +I inquired the news from Constantinople. “All quiet.”--“What! no +revolution?”--“Revolution! Oh yes; that was all over.”--“And the +Russians have come to Constantinople!”--“Yes; the Russians came, and +have gone again, Signor!”--“How long is it since they went away?”--“A +year ago, Signor.”--“A year ago! what do you mean?”--“I mean two +years ago, Signor.”--“What are all these soldiers about?”--“Some are +getting shaved, Signor.”--“Poh! I mean, where are they going?”--“I saw +two of them just now going to bed, Signor.”--“But whither are they +marching?”--“Nowhere, Signor, for they are all boys and have not learned +to march yet?”--“Where have they come from?”--“Stamboul.”--“Oh! I see +you are a Turk, though you have not put on the turban.”--“Sometimes +a Turk, Signor, sometimes nothing at all.”--“What are these soldiers +about?”--“Do you see these men coming up the street, Signor, one of them +with half a sheep on his back?”--“I do.”--“Well, Signor, those men are +about to get their supper.” + +♦ TARTAR GENEROSITY ♦ + +Finding that I had no prospect of extorting any political information +from this addlepated Italian, I engaged his services in the culinary +line, desiring him to proceed forthwith to the cook’s-shop and get me +some stewed mutton for dinner. He fled, delighted with his mission, +already contemplating with such an eye as his mind possessed, the +probability of there being fragments which might fall to his share. He +returned immediately, however, rather downcast, followed by my Tartar, +who with an effrontery too ridiculous for anger, assured me that not a +morsel of mutton, or of meat of any kind was to be had in the town, the +troops having consumed the whole stock of that article in the trade. +I directed their attention to a butcher’s stall opposite, where two +men were engaged cutting up or rather cutting _down_, a sheep with a +sabre, and to another shop in the lower part of the street where similar +operations were in progress. “Those sheep,” said the Tartar, “are all +bought up for the army, which is going to Adrianople: I can get nothing +for you but some eggs.” + +♦ NEGOTIATIONS ♦ + +I rose from my mat, and bade them attend me to one of the shops which +I had noticed, where, through the medium of the Italian, no unwilling +interpreter on the occasion, a negotiation was immediately concluded +upon the subject of a leg of the said mutton, which being separated from +the other members by a sabre, was taken possession of by my accomplice, +who triumphantly posted away with it to the cook’s-shop at the further +end of the street. + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + A white cock--Russian agency--Specimen of cookery--Dining in + state--Departure from Silivria--Mahometan causeway--Perilous + roads--Knowing horses--First view of Constantinople--Advantages of its + position--Extent of its capabilities--An abstracted goose--Entrance + of the capital--Pera--Vitali’s hotel--The plague--Character of the + malady--Armenian funeral--Associations--Funeral of a Greek. + + +♦ A WHITE COCK ♦ + +I sauntered about Silivria for some time, amused by the novel and +animated scene which it presented. Several large charcoal fires were +made up in pans in the street, on which kettles containing pieces of +meat, onions, and other vegetables were boiling, surrounded by groups +of soldiers who fanned the fires occasionally with a turkey’s wing. +Here a baker was as busy as he could possibly be, serving out cakes of +bread, just taken from the oven, to soldiers who passed in single file +before his window. A beautiful white cock was a conspicuous character +all day: he seemed to think that the whole of these preparations were +going on for persons very much inferior to himself in all the requisites +of dignity. Flies swarmed in all directions. The balconies of the +caffinés were filled with Turks, who as usual sipped their nectar, +smoked and continued for hours gazing at vacancy. I was honoured by a +look from a Mussulman who was idling about like myself, one hand in his +breeches pocket, while the other wielded his pipe and a switch. A boy +walking along with a pitcher of water on his head, seemed also very +much astonished at my appearance in Silivria, a feeling in which he was +joined by a shoemaker who was taking home a pair of mended slippers to a +customer hard by. + +A fruitman seemed to be making his fortune amongst the recruits, to +whom he had already disposed of five or six large baskets of very fine +fresh grapes. He had still a few clusters remaining, which I purchased +for a small silver coin equivalent to about two pence of our money. +Even out of this he gave me some change in copper, which I presented to +a decent-looking beggar-woman who was going about from shop to shop +veiled. A string of camels laden with merchandise, and as usual led by a +donkey, entered the town from the Constantinople road, their loud bells +tinkling as they paced along. They lay down in the middle of the street, +while their drivers went in search of refreshment. Here and there the +merry tones of the xebeck were heard from latticed windows. + +♦ RUSSIAN AGENCY ♦ + +While I was thus roving about, one of a group of soldiers who were +sitting on a wall addressed me in good French. He turned out to be +a Corsican, who, by some vicissitude of fortune, was enlisted in +the Mahometan service. From him I learned that Constantinople was +perfectly tranquil--that no tumults had recently occurred there--and +that the Russians, as he expressed it, had “not yet” possession of +Constantinople, nor had they “yet” even returned to the Bosphorus. He +placed such an emphasis on his _pas encores_, that I instinctively +assumed him to be a Russian spy. There can be no doubt at all that +Russian agency is at full work in every part of Turkey; and that the +stories which I heard on the road were the inventions of men well paid +for the propagating them, under the impression that, by means of that +kind, Mussulmen will become reconciled, by so often hearing of Russian +invasion, to the ultimate result of Russian supremacy. But this will be +found a most grave mistake, if I have read the Turkish mind with any +thing like critical acumen. + +♦ SPECIMEN OF COOKERY ♦ + +By the time I returned to my balcony I fully expected that my dinner +would have been there before me, but no symptom of it was perceptible. +I called the factotum to account, who assured me that it would be ready +in a few minutes. I waited for half an hour, when I sent him to make +inquiries. He returned with a question, how I wished it to be done? +I desired it to be plainly boiled, and sent to me in its own gravy, +without any rice or oil. He came back, after the lapse of another +half-hour, with a piece of the meat in his hand, by way of a sample for +me to taste, and say whether it was boiled enough! I objected to touch +this precious fragment which he had dug out of my leg of mutton with the +dirtiest fingers I ever beheld, and directed the dish, such as it was, +to be served without further delay. + +♦ DEPARTURE FROM SILIVRIA ♦ + +At length the mutton made its appearance in a wooden dish, without any +accompaniment of any kind! There was not even a grain of salt. The +cook ran off in one direction, the Italian in another, and, in about a +quarter of an hour, the latter returned with a little coarse salt in a +bit of greasy paper. Then there was no bread. Off scampered the Italian +to a baker’s shop, whence he brought back a smoking hot roll, which he +put into my hand. Meantime my Tartar came to claim his share of the +spoil, which he by no means deserved. I cut out some slices, however, +for myself with his knife, and gave him up the remainder. My repast was +soon over; but, after all, not unsatisfactory, concluding with coffee +and grapes. I was glad to see that something continued in the wooden +dish for my faithful auxiliary, for which he waited with a keen eye, +but at the same time with exemplary patience. This dinner scene passed +in the balcony, open to all the street; and I had the felicity of being +closely observed, during the whole transaction, by a group of gaping +recruits and ragged children. + +We found some difficulty in procuring four horses at Silivria: at +length, about seven o’clock in the evening, we mounted a set of animals +of the most wretched description, already fatigued, as I afterwards +learned, by a long journey, from which they had rested only a few hours. +We set out by the light of the moon, and, in about an hour, reached a +very handsome khan, where we took coffee. We then proceeded along the +beach of Marmora, the murmur of whose gentle waves, borne on the fresh +atmosphere of the sea, fell upon my heart like a spring shower on the +parched earth. At midnight we arrived near the once magnificent series +of bridges, which, in a former age, were erected over a wide arm of the +sea, and considerably shorten the road to Constantinople. Clouds having +set in and darkened the night, a thunder-storm and violent rains came +on, which compelled us to take shelter in the gateway of an inn at the +foot of the principal bridge. We dismounted and rested here until four +o’clock, when we again proceeded on our journey. + +♦ MAHOMETAN CAUSEWAY ♦ + +From these bridges to Constantinople a causeway has been constructed +upon the plan of the ancient Roman roads. But, like the bridges across +the arms of the Marmora, it has fallen into such a state of ruin as +to become infinitely more a source of danger than of convenience to +the traveller. It is as bad as the worst parts of the track over the +Balkans. Had the sultan taken pains to render his capital inaccessible +to cavalry on the side of Silivria, no engineer could have broken up +the causeway, which in some places is the only road, with more skill, +with a view to render it perilous, than time and shameful negligence +have done throughout the whole of the line. Five hundred or a thousand +men, employed for a fortnight, would, at a trifling expense, restore +it to its pristine solidity and beauty. But the genius of decay seems +to have paralyzed, for the present, the wonted energies of the Turkish +people. + +♦ PERILOUS ROADS ♦ + +The soil through which this causeway runs, is in general a soft clay, +upon some more adhesive strata, which do not rapidly absorb the humid +atmosphere of the neighbouring waters. The consequence is that when +heavy rains have fallen, the earth becomes so slippery that it requires +the greatest care on the part of the rider to preserve his horse from +falling at every step, when he is not on the causeway, which for the +greater portion of the way is absolutely impassable. My Tartar, a bulky +man, was seated on a wretched pony, which came down three or four times. +Once the animal lost footing for both his hinder legs, and stuck so +firmly in the mud on his haunches that the Tartar tumbled backwards head +over heels. He got up in a fury and assailed the postilion in such a +storm of passion, that I thought he would have ended by shooting him. +However he was content with compelling the man to give up his own horse +and mount the pony. + +♦ KNOWING HORSES ♦ + +In a few minutes after down came the unfortunate postilion in a marsh, +whence we had great difficulty in extricating him, covered all over with +mud. I held a tight rein, and though my Rosinante stumbled at every +fourth or fifth step, I had the good fortune to escape the general +destiny. Even the baggage-horse was tripped up repeatedly, falling +sometimes on his haunches, sometimes rolling quite over on his back, +his legs dancing in the air. Whether riding on a level, ascending or +descending the numerous hills which intervene between the bridges +and the capital, the peril was the same. The horses seemed painfully +conscious of the difficulties which they had to go through, and whenever +they could get upon the causeway they preferred it, picking their steps +through the stones with marvellous ingenuity. To the less experienced +traveller, however, the change appeared to be only “from the frying-pan +into the fire.” + +♦ VIEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE ♦ + +At length we entered on a more sandy track, and rode with less toil +until the day returned: when, from the top of the highest eminence +we had yet ascended, we beheld at three leagues’ distance below the +Ottoman capital, still reposing in the twilight of early morning. The +east soon after began to redden, and the sun rose in all his Asiatic +glory over the mountains behind Scutari, which almost touched the sky. +Their tabled summits were already spread with cloth of gold, and clouds +of fiery dust were rolling around, as if raised by the march of armies +tending towards that splendid plain for encampment. The crescents and +spires of the white minarets, the tall green cypresses, the minarets of +nature, greatly excelling the others in the solemnity of their beauty, +shone out in the descending beams. The venerable watch-towers, and +the countless domes of the mosques were all illumined, and then the +castellated battlements, caravanserais, bazaars, and palaces, extending +in a long line to the waters of the Marmora, which reflected the blaze. +Seen at that moment of enchantment, Constantinople, distinguished from +all other European capitals by its oriental architecture, whose filagree +Arabesques became transparent in the light, and rising from amidst +groves and cemeteries and gardens, where the foliage and the flowers of +summer were still in bloom, looked less a reality than the vision of +some Persian tale. + +♦ EXTENT OF CAPABILITIES ♦ + +It was unnecessary for my Tartar to point downwards and say, “There +is Stamboul!” The capital of the Constantines has no rival upon this +planet of ours, in external appearance, at least, and in the peculiar +advantages of its position. Having free access to the Mediterranean +through the Hellespont, it may with every possible facility defend +itself at the Dardanelles from a maritime force, and having shut its +gates at that point, may withdraw to the Marmora, the Bosphorus, or the +Euxine, repair there its ships, build new fleets, equip and abundantly +provision them from a populous and fertile territory, and rush out again +upon its enemies, with an overwhelming force. Or if the chieftain who is +master of Stamboul choose not to run the further risk of maritime war, +he need only put the key of his gates at the Dardanelles in his pocket, +turn his men of war into merchant ships, and find employment for them +in trading along the coasts of Turkey, Asia Minor, the whole of the +borders of the Black Sea, to which the silks of Broussa, the carpets +and brocades of Persia, the rice, and fruits, and corn of all that +territory, and the riches of central and southern Russia, are brought. + +♦ ABSTRACTED GOOSE ♦ + +If not content with the field of the Euxine, he may extend his commerce +without a single convoy, along the Danube to Wallachia, Bulgaria, +Hungary, Servia, and Austria, attracting within his reach, in exchange +for the productions of the East, the spoils of all Germany. When the +Danube shall be united with the Rhine, by means of the canal now about +to be formed, the ruler of Constantinople, though at war with Syria, +the Barbary States, Egypt, Greece, France, Spain, England, and the +two Americas, may not only live in safety within the castles of his +Dardanelles, but carry his trade to the very verge of the British +channel, fearless of all the naval powers in the world! + +While I was indulging in these fine speculations, my reverie was turned +into uncontrollable laughter by a lad whom we overtook, riding behind +a stately Turk, having at his saddle-bow a bag, from which a goose was +looking out. The picture was an odd contrast to my airy dreams, and was +not a little heightened when the winged prisoner, effecting his escape, +ran off towards the home from which he had been just abstracted. The +Turk was discomposed, the lad went off in chase of the goose, which his +lordship had intended for his dinner. But though he would not wait to +witness the result of the pursuit, he cast many a “longing, lingering +look behind,” until at length the boy returned in triumph, and tied up +the goose again in his bag, allowing him, as before, to look at the +beauteous world which he was so soon to leave. + +♦ ENTRANCE OF THE CAPITAL ♦ + +As we approached the outer gate of Constantinople, we were confined +entirely to the causeway, the sands being deep and marshy. It was, +gently speaking, a most execrable road. If our animals from long +experience, and the judicious selection which marked all their steps, +had not been enabled to work miracles, I know not how we could have +got on. It was half-past ten o’clock when we passed the gate, where +my firman was exhibited. We then pursued our way through numerous +cemeteries, planted with cypresses, and crowded with gravestones, +usually small round columns, carved at the top in the figure of a +turban. As I was hastening as well as I could after my Tartar, through +these desperate defiles, a fine-looking Turk stopped me, broke a walnut +in his hand and divided it with me. It was his mode of bidding me +welcome to my destination. + +♦ VITALI’S HOTEL ♦ + +After leaving the receptacles of the dead, which were very extensive, +and afforded by their numberless fresh graves, abundant evidence of the +havoc which the plague had recently made, we entered the streets, and +were immediately in the midst of the industry and bustle of a great +city. Riding to the edge of the “Golden Horn,” as the inner harbour is +called, I gladly dismounted, and transferred my weary limbs to a boat, +where my luggage and Tartar were also speedily deposited. In a few +minutes we were landed at Galata, whence we walked on to Pera, and found +a French youth, who conducted us to Vitali’s hotel, familiarly called +Giusepino’s, in the Strada Santa Maria, and almost next door to the +church of the Holy Trinity. + +The hotel was full of Englishmen; but Vitali very civilly offered to +fit up for me in an hour or two, a chamber at the top of his house, +which presented magnificent views of Constantinople. My goods and +my person having been then fumigated--as, through ignorance, I had +taken no precautions whatever in passing through crowds amongst which +the pestilence was absolutely raging--I was admitted to intercourse; +breakfasted, reposed a while on a sofa, then with infinite delight +changed my travelling attire, and noted in my journal, that, +calculating to a moment, I had thus been exactly five days and nights on +the road from Rutschuk to the gate of the capital. This was considered +a good journey, as, although the Tartars perform it in three days and +nights, when great expedition is required, travellers seldom go over the +whole ground in less than nine. The expectation, therefore, held out to +me at the commencement of my ride, that I might accomplish it within +three days was all moonshine. + +♦ THE PLAGUE ♦ + +Vitali’s account of the plague was alarming. Within the last week it had +considerably diminished, but suddenly returned again with more violence +than ever, and in the city no fewer than fifteen hundred victims had +been numbered with the dead only the day before. At Galata and Pera +a few deaths had also occurred, and even Therapia, higher up the +Bosphorus, was said not to be exempt from the contagion. He confirmed +the reports of Mr. Wood’s death; but I afterwards learned, that, in +point of fact, that gentleman had recovered from the plague by means +of prompt, judicious, and vigorous measures; that being then in a very +weakly state, he unfortunately accepted the advice of an Ionian quack, +who promised to restore his strength rapidly by the use of a potion +which he carried about as a sovereign remedy in all cases of debility, +and that the patient died of the dose, in consequence of its having been +too powerful for his then wasted constitution. + +♦ ITS CHARACTER ♦ + +Mr. Cartwright, the British Consul-General, who lived nearly opposite to +Vitali’s, and to whom I lost no time in paying my respects, also assured +me that he had himself recovered from the plague, by the adoption of +timely applications: that the malady was, in truth, nothing more than a +violent typhus fever, which, if permitted to reach its height, seemed +to be in all cases fatal, but if met in the beginning by medical skill, +and determination on the part of the sufferer, it yielded the contest, +though the poison which it diffused through the veins was felt for a +long time after. The first symptoms of the malady are swellings under +the arms, which if not opened at once, spread in an hour over the whole +frame. The only precautions, he said, which I could adopt, were to +procure airy apartments, to live generously, to be attentive to personal +cleanliness, and when I walked out to carry in my hand a substantial +cane, by which I should prevent any body whomsoever from touching me +even with the hem of his garment. I found it awkward enough at first +to guide my way through the very narrow streets of Pera, especially +during the hours when they were most crowded, by poking people away, +now at one side, now at the other. But the same thing, I observed, was +done by every passenger: it was no rudeness, for it was the result of a +universally understood necessity; and I soon found that I was not more +anxious to avoid coming into contact with others, than they were to shun +too near an approach to me. + +♦ ARMENIAN FUNERAL ♦ + +As I was returning from the consul’s, where I had the happiness to find +letters from home, to my hotel, I met an Armenian funeral procession +passing along the street, formed of a long double file of men, preceded +by several priests and choir-boys, who were singing the Roman catholic +anthems of the dead, bearing a large silver crucifix, a vase of holy +water, a pan of incense, smoking censers, and lighted tapers; the +priests in their stoles, surplices, cassocks, and caps; the boys in +surplices and cassocks; all moving on with as much order and freedom +as I had ever observed in any part of Spain. A black velvet pall was +thrown over the coffin, which six men sustained on their shoulders. +I followed the procession to the Frank cemetery, which was at the +distance of about a mile higher up the Bosphorus: when they arrived at +the newly-made grave, the concluding psalms and prayers, closed by that +solemn and affecting series of supplications, the _De Profundis_, were +read by the officiating clergyman, and responded to by the crowd, in a +manner that made me feel at once as if I were not in a Mahometan but a +Catholic country. + +♦ ASSOCIATIONS ♦ + +Here was a remarkable result of the plan upon which that religion was +traced from the earliest ages. By its having adopted for its invariable +and universal dialect the Latin tongue, I, who am wholly ignorant of +Armenian, found myself at home amidst the orisons of that people to the +God of all men. The psalms which they repeated, the _Requiem_ which they +sung, their final adieus to the dead, as the body was lowered into the +grave, were those to which I had been accustomed from my infancy--those +in which I last took a deep share when I was separated from a mother who +had loved me above all earthly things. My tears mingled with those of +the real mourners over the departed--the associations of the scene were +not to be controlled. + +♦ FUNERAL OF A GREEK ♦ + +I was not at all prepared for this open and authorized celebration +of Christian rites in the public streets and cemeteries of the very +capital of the koran. But I had afterwards abundant opportunities of +satisfying my mind, that, in no other part of Europe is the existence +of all religions more liberally secured and even protected than within +the precincts of Constantinople. It was, I think, only the very next day +that I witnessed a similar procession of Greek catholics, whose anthems +and prayers differed in language and in other points from those of the +Armenians. The body was borne on a bier, clothed in the ordinary attire +of life; the head was crowned with a wreath of flowers, the eyes were +still open, and the spirit seemed to have departed but a few moments +before its receptacle was carried to the cemetery, where it had to wait +until its place was hollowed in the earth. On each of these occasions, +Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Franks, were seen collected round the grave, +all listening with respectful and even solemn attention to the prayers +which were uttered by the ministers in attendance. + + + + + APPENDIX A. + + TREATY OF ALLIANCE CONCLUDED BETWEEN + RUSSIA AND TURKEY ON THE 8th OF JULY, 1833. + + _In the Name of Almighty God._ + + + Translation. + +His Imperial Majesty the most high and most puissant Emperor and +Autocrat of all the Russias, and his Highness the most high and most +puissant Emperor of the Ottomans, equally animated by a sincere desire +to maintain the system of peace and good harmony happily established +between the two Empires, have resolved to extend and to strengthen the +perfect amity and confidence which reign between them by the conclusion +of a Treaty of defensive Alliance. + +In consequence, their Majesties have chosen and nominated as their +Plenipotentiaries, that is to say, his Majesty the Emperor of all the +Russias, the most excellent and the most honourable Alexis Count +Orloff, his Ambassador Extraordinary at the Sublime Ottoman Porte, &c. +&c. + +And Mr. Apollinaire Bouténeff his Extraordinary Envoy and Minister +Plenipotentiary at the Sublime Ottoman Porte, &c. &c. + +And his Highness the Sultan of the Ottomans, the most illustrious +and most excellent the oldest of his Viziers, Hosrew-Mehmet Pacha, +Seraskier Commander-in-chief of the regular Troops of the Line, and +Governor-General of Constantinople, &c. &c. the most excellent and +the most honourable Ferzi-Achmet Pacha, Mouchir and Commander of his +Highness’s Guard, &c. &c.; and Hadji-Mehmet-Akif Effendi, actual Reis +Effendi, &c. &c. + +Who after having exchanged their full powers, which have been found in +good and regular form, have agreed upon the following Articles. + + + ARTICLE I. + +There shall be for ever Peace, Amity, and Alliance between H. M. the +Emperor of all the Russias, and H. M. the Emperor of the Ottomans, +their Empires and their Subjects, as well by land as by sea. This +Alliance having solely for its object the common defence of their +States against all attack, their Majesties promise to have a mutual +and unreserved understanding as to all objects which concern their +tranquillity and safety respectively, and to lend to each other for this +purpose _materiel_ succours and the most efficacious assistance. + + + ARTICLE II. + +The Treaty of Peace concluded at Adrianople on the 2nd of September, +1829, as well as all the other Treaties comprised in it, as well as the +Convention signed at St. Petersburg on the 14th of April, 1830, and the +arrangement concluded at Constantinople on the 9th (21st) of July, 1832, +relative to Greece, are confirmed throughout all their tenour by the +present Treaty of defensive Alliance as if the said Transactions had +been inserted in it word for word. + + + ARTICLE III. + +In consequence of the principle of conservation and of mutual defence +which serves as the basis for the present Treaty of Alliance, and +by reason of the most sincere desire to assure the duration, the +maintenance, and the entire independence of the Sublime Porte, H. M. the +Emperor of all the Russias, in case that circumstances which might again +determine the Sublime Porte to claim naval and military aid from Russia, +should occur, although the case be not now foreseen, if it please God, +promises to furnish by land and sea as many troops and forces as the +contracting parties shall deem necessary. It is accordingly agreed that +in this case the forces by land and sea whose assistance the Sublime +Porte shall demand, shall be held at its disposal. + + + ARTICLE IV. + +According to what has been said above, in case one of the two Powers +shall have demanded assistance from the other, the expenses only +of provisions for the forces by land and sea which shall have been +furnished, shall fall to the charge of the Power which shall have +demanded the succour. + + + ARTICLE V. + +Although the two high contracting Powers be sincerely disposed to +maintain this engagement to the most remote period, inasmuch however as +it is possible that hereafter circumstances may require some alterations +in this Treaty, it has been agreed that its duration should be fixed +at eight years, to run from the date of the exchange of the Imperial +Ratifications. The two Parties, before the expiration of that term, +shall agree according to the state in which things shall be at that +epoch, upon the renewal of the Treaty. + + + ARTICLE VI. + +The present Treaty of defensive Alliance shall be ratified by the two +High Contracting Parties, and the ratifications shall be exchanged at +Constantinople, within the period of two months, or sooner if possible. + +The present Instrument, containing six Articles, and to which the last +hand shall be put by the exchange of the respective ratifications, +having been drawn up between us, we have signed and sealed it with our +Seals, in virtue of our full powers, and delivered, in exchange for +another of the like tenour, into the hands of the Plenipotentiaries of +the Sublime Ottoman Porte. + +Done at Constantinople, the 26th of June (8th of July), in the year one +thousand eight hundred and thirty-three (the 20th of the moon of Safer, +in the year 1249 of the Hegira). + + (Signed) + COUNT ALEXIS ORLOFF (L. S.) + + (Signed) + A. BOUTENEFF (L. S.) + + + + +_Separate Article of the Treaty of Alliance concluded between Russia and +Turkey, on the 8th of July, 1833._ + +In virtue of one of the clauses of the First Article of the Patent +Treaty of defensive Alliance concluded between the Sublime Porte and +the Imperial Court of Russia, the two High Contracting Parties have +engaged to lend mutually _materiel_ succours and the most efficacious +assistance for the safety of their respective states. Nevertheless, as +H. M. the Emperor of all the Russias wishing to save the Sublime Ottoman +Porte the expense and the inconveniences which might result to it from +lending such _materiel_ succour, will not demand this succour should +circumstances place the Sublime Porte under the obligation to furnish +it, _the Sublime Porte in lieu of the succour which it is bound to +lend in case of need according to the principle of reciprocity of the +Patent Treaty, should limit its action in favour of the Imperial Court +of Russia to shutting the strait of the Dardanelles, that is to say, +not to permit any foreign vessel of war to enter it under any pretext +whatsoever_. + +The present separate and secret Article shall have the same force and +validity as if it were inserted word for word in the Treaty of defensive +Alliance of this day. + +Done at Constantinople the 26th of June (8th of July), in the year one +thousand eight hundred and thirty-three (the 20th of the moon of Safer, +in the year 1249 of the Hegira). + + (Signed) + COUNT ALEXIS ORLOFF (L. S.) + (Signed) + A. BOUTENEFF (L. S.) + + + + + APPENDIX A. + + TREATY OF ALLIANCE CONCLUDED BETWEEN + RUSSIA AND TURKEY ON THE 8th OF JULY, 1833. + + _In the Name of Almighty God._ + + Traduction. + + +S. M. I. le très haut et très puissant Empereur et Autocrat de toutes +les Russies, et S. H. le très haut et très puissant Empereur des +Ottomans, également animés du sincère désir de maintenir le systême de +paix et de bonne harmonie heureusement établies entre les deux Empires, +ont résolu d’étendre et de fortifier la parfaite amitié et la confiance +qui règnent entre eux, par la conclusion d’un Traité d’Alliance +défensive. + +En conséquence L. L. M. M. ont choisi et nommé pour leurs +Plénipotentiaires, savoir, S. M. l’Empereur de toutes les Russies, les +très excellens et très honorables le Sieur Alexis Comte Orloff, Son +Ambassadeur Extraordinaire près la Sublime Porte Ottomane, &c. &c. + +Et le Sieur Apollinaire Bouténeff, Son Envoyé Extraordinaire et Ministre +Plénipotentiaire près la Sublime Porte Ottomane, &c. &c. + +Et S. H. le Sultan des Ottomans, les trés illustre et très excellent le +plus ancien de ses Visirs, Hosrew-Mehmet Pacha, Seraskier Commandant +en chef des Troupes de Ligne regulières et Gouverneur Général de +Constantinople, &c. &c. les très excellens et très honorables +Ferzi-Achmet Pacha, Mouchir et Commandant de la Garde de S. H. &c. &c.; +et Hadji-Mehmet-Akif Effendi, Reis Effendi Actuel, &c. + +Lesquels, après avoir échangé leurs pleins pouvoirs, trouvés en bonne et +de forme, sont convenus des Articles suivants. + + + ARTICLE I. + +Il y aura à jamais Paix, Amitié, et Alliance entre S. M. l’Empereur de +toutes les Russies et S. M. l’Empereur des Ottomans, Leurs Empires +et Leurs Sujets, tant sur Terre que sur Mer. Cette Alliance ayant +uniquement pour objet la défense commune de leurs états contre tout +empiètement, L. L. M. M. promettent de s’entendre sans réserve sur tous +les objets qui concernent Leur Tranquilité et Sûreté respectives, et de +se prêter à cet effet mutuellement des secours matériels et l’assistance +la plus efficace. + + + ARTICLE II. + +Le Traité de Paix conclu à Andrinople le 2 Septembre, 1829, ainsi que +tous les autres Traités qui y sont compris, de même aussi la Convention +signée à St. Petersbourg le 14 Avril, 1830, et l’arrangement conclu +à Constantinople le 9 (21) Juillet, 1832, rélatif à la Grèce, sont +confirmés dans toute leur teneur par le présent Traité d’Alliance +défensive comme si les dites Transactions y avaient été insérées mot +pour mot. + + + ARTICLE III. + +En conséquence du principe de conservation et de défense mutuelle qui +sert de base au présent Traité d’Alliance, et par suite du plus sincère +désir d’assurer la durée, le maintien, et l’entière indépendance de +la Sublime Porte, S. M. l’Empereur de toutes les Russies, dans le cas +où les circonstances qui pourraient déterminer de nouveau la S. Porte +à réclamer l’assistance navale et militaire de la Russie, venaient à +se présenter, quoique ce cas ne soit nullement à prévoir, s’il plait +à Dieu, promet de fournir par terre et par mer autant de Troupes et +de Forces que les deux Hautes Parties Contractantes le jugeraient +nécessaire. D’après cela, il est convenu qu’en ce cas les Forces de +terre et de mer dont la S. Porte réclamerait le secours, seront tenues à +sa disposition. + + + ARTICLE IV. + +Selon ce qui a été dit plus haut, dans le cas où l’une des deux +Puissances aura réclamé l’assistance de l’autre, les frais seuls +d’approvisionnement pour les Forces de terre et de mer qui seraient +fournies tomberont à la charge de la Puissance qui aura demandé le +secours. + + + ARTICLE V. + +Quoique les deux Hautes Parties Contractantes soient sincèrement +intentionnés de maintenir cet engagement jusqu’au terme le plus +éloigné, comme il se pourrait que dans la suite les circonstances +exigeassent qu’il fût apporté quelques changemens à ce Traité, on est +convenu de fixer sa durée à huit ans, à dater du jour de l’échange +des Ratifications Impériales. Les deux Parties, avant l’expiration de +ce terme, se concerteront suivant l’état où seront les choses à cette +époque, sur le renouvellement du dit Traité. + + + ARTICLE VI. + +Le présent Traité d’Alliance défensive sera ratifié par les deux Hautes +Parties Contractantes, et les Ratifications en seront échangées à +Constantinople, dans le terme de deux mois, ou plutôt si faire se peut. + +Le présent Instrument, contenant six Articles, et auquel il sera mis la +dernière main par l’échange des ratifications respectives, ayant été +arrêté entre nous, nous l’avons signé et scellé de nos Sceaux, en vertu +de nos pleins pouvoirs, et délivré, en échange contre un autre pareil, +entre les mains des Plénipotentiaires de la Sublime Porte Ottomane. + +Fait à Constantinople, le 26 Juin, l’an mil huit cent trente-trois (le +20 de la lune de Safer, l’an 1249 de l’Hégire). + + (Signé) + CTE. ALEXIS ORLOFF (L. S.) + + (Signé) + A. BOUTENEFF (L. S.) + + +_Separate Article of the Treaty of Alliance concluded between Russia +and Turkey, on the 8th of July, 1833._ + +En vertu d’une des clauses d’Article 1er du Traité Patent d’Alliance +défensive conclu entre la Sublime Porte et la Cour Impériale de +Russie, les deux Hautes Parties Contractantes sont tenues de se prêter +mutuellement des secours matériels et l’assistance la plus efficace pour +la sûreté de leurs états respectifs. Néanmoins, comme S. M. l’Empereur +de toutes les Russies voulant épargner à la Sublime Porte Ottomane la +charge et les embarras qui résulteraient pour elle de la prestation +d’un secours matériel, ne demandera pas ce secours si les circonstances +mettaient la S. Porte dans l’obligation de le fournir, _la Sublime +Porte Ottomane à la place du secours qu’elle doit prêter au besoin +d’après le principe de réciprocité du Traité Patent, devrait borner son +action en faveur de la Cour Impériale de Russie à fermer le détroit des +Dardanelles, c’est à dire, à ne permettre à aucun bâtiment de guerre +étranger d’y entrer sous aucun prétexte quelconque_. + +Le présent Article séparé et sécret aura la même force et valeur que +s’il était inséré mot à mot dans le Traité d’Alliance défensive de ce +jour. + +Fait à Constantinople le 26 Juin, l’an mil huit cent trente-trois (le 20 +de la lune de Safer, l’an 1249 de l’Hégire). + + (Signé) + CTE. ALEXIS ORLOFF (L. S.) + + (Signé) + A. BOUTENEFF (L. S.) + + + + + APPENDIX B. + +TREATY BETWEEN RUSSIA AND TURKEY, CONCLUDED AT ST. PETERSBURG, BY ACHMET +PACHA, ON THE 29th OF JANUARY, 1834. + + Translation. + +The most high and most puissant Ottoman Emperor, my benefactor and +master, on the one part, and the most high and most magnanimous +Emperor of all the Russias, on the other, animated by the desire with +which they are inspired by the sincere friendship, cordiality, and +confidence, that happily exist between them, to arrange definitively +certain points of the Treaty concluded between the two High Powers at +Adrianople, which have not been hitherto carried into execution, have +named for this purpose as their Plenipotentiaries, that is to say, H. +M. the Ottoman Emperor, His Excellency Mouchir Ahmed Pacha, Military +Counsellor of the Seraglio, Ambassador Extraordinary of the Sublime +Porte at the Imperial Court of Russia, &c. &c., and H. M. the Emperor +of Russia, their Excellencies the Count Nesselrode, Vice-Chancellor +of the Empire, and the Count Alexis Orloff, General of Cavalry, +Aide-de-Camp of the Emperor, &c. &c., who, after having reciprocally +shown their full powers, have agreed on the following Articles: + + + ARTICLE I. + +The two high Courts having deemed it necessary to establish, as +has been already stipulated in the Treaty of Adrianople, a line of +demarcation between the two Empires in the East, such as may henceforth +prevent every species of dispute and discussion, it has been agreed +that a line should be traced that should completely obstruct the +depredations which the neighbouring tribes have been in the habit of +committing, and which have more than once compromised the relations +of neighbourhood and friendship between the two Empires. Accordingly, +and as Commissioners on both sides have examined the localities, +and obtained the necessary information for this purpose, the two +Contracting Parties have resolved to proceed to the settlement of the +frontiers in such a way as that the object wisely laid down in the +Treaty of Adrianople should be completely fulfilled; and with that +view they have adopted, with common accord, the line which may be seen +traced in red on the map which is appended to the present treaty. + +Conformably to the fourth Article of the Treaty of Adrianople, this +line departs from Port St. Nicolo on the coast of the Black Sea, +follows the actual frontiers of Guriel, ascends as far as the frontiers +of Juira, thence traverses the Province of Akhiskha, and strikes the +point where the provinces of Akhiskha and of Cars are reunited to the +Province of Georgia. Thus the greatest part of the Province of Akhiskha +remains, together with the other countries and territories mentioned +in the said Treaty, under the dominion of the Sublime Porte, as may be +seen by the map, of which two copies have been made and collated by the +Plenipotentiaries of the two Powers, and which, considered as forming +part of the present Treaty, are to be subjoined to it, as evidence of +the manner in which the future limits of the two empires have been +settled. + +After the exchange of the ratifications of the present Treaty and +as soon as posts shall have been erected by the Commissioners named +on both sides, according to the line traced on the map, from one +end to the other, the Russian troops shall evacuate the territories +situated beyond that line, and shall retire within the limits which +it prescribes. So also the Mussulmans who inhabit the inconsiderable +territories which are comprised within the line that passes by the +Sandjack of Ghroubhan and the extremities of the Sandjacks of Ponskron +and of Djildir, and who may wish to establish themselves within the +territories of the Sublime Porte, shall be at liberty, within the term +of eighteen months, from the date of the exchange of the ratifications +of the Treaty, to arrange the affairs which attach them to the country, +and to transport themselves to the Turkish States without molestation. + + + ARTICLE II. + +By the Instrument executed separately at Adrianople relative to the +Principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia, the Sublime Porte had +undertaken to recognise formally the regulations made, while the +Russian troops occupied those Provinces, by the Principal inhabitants +with reference to their internal administration; the Sublime Porte +finding nothing in the Articles of that Constitution which can affect +its rights of Sovereignty, consents henceforth to recognise formally +the said Constitution. + +It engages to publish in this respect a Firman, accompanied by a Hatti +Sherif, two months after the exchange of ratifications, and to give a +copy of the same to the Russian Mission at Constantinople. + +After the formal recognition of the Constitution, the Hospodars of +Wallachia and Moldavia shall be named, but for this time only, and as a +case entirely peculiar, in the manner which was agreed upon some time +ago between the two Contracting Powers, and they will proceed to govern +the two Provinces conformably to the Constitution, in pursuance of the +stipulations above mentioned. + +His Majesty the Emperor of Russia wishing to afford a new proof of the +regard and consideration which he entertains towards his Highness, and +to hasten the moment when the Sublime Porte shall exercise the rights +which the Treaties secure to it over the two Provinces, will order +his troops, as soon as the Princes shall have been named, to retire +from the two Provinces. This point shall be executed two months after +the nomination of the Princes. And as a compensation is due in all +justice for the advantages which the Sublime Porte grants as a favour +to the Wallachians and Moldavians, it is agreed and ordained that the +annual tribute, which the two Provinces ought to pay according to the +Treaties, shall be fixed henceforth at six thousand purses (that is to +say, at three millions of Turkish piastres); and the Princes shall take +care that this sum be annually paid, counting from the 1st of January, +1835. + +It is agreed between the two Courts that the number of troops, which +shall be employed as garrisons in the interior of the two Provinces, +shall be fixed in an invariable manner and with the approbation of the +Porte, and that the latter is to give colours to the garrisons, and +a flag to the Valacho-Moldavian merchant vessels which navigate the +Danube. + + + ARTICLE III. + +With respect to the desire manifested by His Highness to execute +scrupulously the engagements which he has undertaken by the third +Article of the explanatory and separate Act which is appended to +the Treaty of Adrianople, and by the Treaty of Petersburg relative +thereunto, H. M. the Emperor of all the Russias is most willing to +afford to the Sublime Porte new facilities for the execution of the +engagements imposed by the Acts above mentioned, and it is accordingly +agreed: + +1º. That although it has been stipulated by the second Article of the +Treaty of St. Petersburg, that the Sublime Porte shall pay annually, +and during eight years, one million of Dutch ducats, it shall pay only +five hundred thousand ducats per annum. + +2º. That the Sublime Porte be no longer obliged, as it has hitherto +been, to pay in the month of May, each year, and at one time only, the +whole yearly sum, and that it shall henceforth pay the five hundred +thousand ducats by degrees, but the entire sum within the interval from +the month of May of one year to the month of May in the following year. + +3º. That his Imperial Majesty renounces his right to demand the +difference, which arose at the period of each payment of the portion of +the indemnities for the expenses of the war and the commercial claims, +between the price at which the Sublime Porte paid the ducat in Turkish +piastres, and the real value of the ducats. + +4º. That moreover, his Imperial Majesty, taking into consideration the +embarrassments in which the Treasury of that Empire has been lately +involved, consents to the immediate defalcation of two millions of +ducats, which is the third of the amount of the indemnities for the +expenses of the war. + +5º. That considering the defalcation above announced, and the other +arrangements already mentioned, the sum total of the indemnities +amounts to four millions of Dutch ducats, of which the first portion to +be paid in one year, as one account, consists of 500,000 ducats, and +which shall be paid from the 1st of May, 1834, to the 1st of May, 1835, +and the corresponding portions in the following years shall be paid +in the same manner until the whole debt be discharged; but upon the +condition that the assurances, guarantees, and facilities stipulated +by Articles 4, 5, 6, 7, and 9 of the Treaty of St. Petersburg shall +preserve down to that period all their force, as if they had been +inserted word for word in the present Treaty. + + + CONCLUSION. + +In virtue of the powers which have been given me, I have concluded the +present Treaty, which shall be ratified by the Contracting Parties, and +the ratification of which shall be exchanged at Constantinople, within +the term of six weeks, or sooner if possible; I have affixed to it my +seal and signature, and I have delivered it to their Excellencies the +Plenipotentiaries of the Court of Russia at Petersburg, in exchange for +the counterpart which they have delivered to me. + + Done the 18th Ramazan, + 1249. + + + + + APPENDIX B. + +TREATY BETWEEN RUSSIA AND TURKEY, CONCLUDED AT ST. PETERSBURG, BY ACHMET +PACHA, ON THE 29th OF JANUARY, 1834. + + + Traduction. + +Le très haut et très puissant Empereur Ottoman, mon bienfaiteur et +maître, d’une part, et le très haut et très magnanime Empereur de +toutes les Russies, de l’autre, animés du désir, que leur inspirent +l’amitié sincère, la securité et la confiance qui existent heureusement +entre eux, d’arranger définitivement certains points du Traité conclu +entre les deux Hautes Puissances à Andrinople, lesquels n’ont pas +été mis à exécution jusqu’à présent, ont nommé à cet effet pour +leurs Plénipotentiaires, savoir, Sa Majesté l’Empereur Ottoman, Son +Excellence Mouchir Ahmed Pacha, Conseiller Militaire du Sérail, +Ambassadeur Extraordinaire de la Sublime Porte à la Cour Impériale de +Russie, &c. &c. et Sa Majesté l’Empereur de Russie, leurs Excellences +le Comte Nesselrode, Vice-Chancelier de l’Empire, et le Comte Alexis +Orloff, Général de Cavalerie, Aide-de-Camp de l’Empereur, &c. &c. +lesquels, après avoir montré réciproquement leurs pleins pouvoirs, sont +convenus des Articles suivans: + + + ARTICLE I. + +Les deux hautes Cours ayant jugé nécessaire d’établir, ainsi qu’il +est stipulé dans le Traité d’Andrinople, une ligne de démarcation +entre les deux Empires dans l’Orient, capable de prévenir désormais +toute espèce de disputes et de discussion, il a été convenu que l’on +tracerait une linge qui peut empêcher entièrement les déprédations +que les peuplades circonvoisines commettaient, et qui ont plus d’une +fois compromis les relations de voisinage et d’amitié entre les deux +Empires. En conséquence et après que des Commissaires de part et +d’autre ont examiné les lieux, et pris des renseignemens à cet égard, +les deux Parties Contractantes ont résolu de procéder à la fixation des +frontières de manière à ce que le but qu’on s’est sagement proposé dans +le Traité d’Andrinople fût complètement rempli; et pour cela, elles +ont adopté, de commun accord, la ligne que l’on voit tracée en couleur +rouge dans la carte qui est jointe au présent Traité. + +Conformément au IVme Article du Traité d’Andrinople, cette ligne part +du Port de St. Nicolo, sur la côte de la mer noire, suit les frontières +actuelles de la Province de Guriel, monte jusqu’aux confins d’Iuira, et +de là elle traverse la Province d’Akhiskha, et elle aboutit au point +où les Provinces d’Akhiskha et de Cars se réunissent à la Province +de la Georgie. Ainsi la plus grande partie de la Province d’Akhiskha +reste, avec les autres pays et terres dont il est question dans le +dit Traite, sous la domination de la Sublime Porte, comme on voit +par la carte dont deux de copies ont été faites et collationnées par +les Plénipotentiaires des deux Puissances, et qui, considérées comme +faisant partie du présent Traité, doivent y être jointes, pour y voir +la manière dont les limites futures des deux Empires ont étés fixées. + +Après l’échange des ratifications du présent Traité, et aussitôt que +l’on aura fait planter des poteaux par des Commissaires nommés de +part et d’autre, d’après la ligne tracée dans la carte, d’un bout à +l’autre, les troupes Russes évacueront les terres situées au dehors +de cette ligne, et se retireront dans les bornes qu’elle prescrit. De +même les Mussulmans qui se trouvent dans les terres peu considérables +qui sont comprises dans la ligne qui passe devant le Sandjack de +Ghroubhan et des extrémités des Sandjacks de Ponskron et de Djildir, +lesquels voudront s’établir dans les terres de la Sublime Porte, +pourront, dans le terme de dix-huit mois, à dater du jour de l’échange +des Ratifications du Traité, finir les affaires qui les attachaient au +pays, et se transporter dans les Etats Turcs, sans que l’on y mette +obstacle. + + + ARTICLE II. + +Par l’Instrument fait séparément à Andrinople relativement au +Principautés de la Valachie et de la Moldavie, la Sublime Porte a +pris l’engagement de reconnaître formellement les règlemens faits, +pendant que les troupes Russes occupaient ces Provinces, par les +principaux habitans sur leur administration intérieure; la Sublime +Porte ne trouvant rien dans les Articles de cette Constitution, qui +puisse affecter ses droits de Souveraineté, consent dès à présent à +reconnaître formellement la dite Constitution. + +Elle s’engage à publier à cet égard un Firman, accompagné d’un Hatti +Sherif, deux mois après l’échange des ratifications, et à donner une +copie du même à la Mission Russe à Constantinople, + +Après la reconnaissance formelle de la Constitution, les Hospodars de +Valachie et de Moldavie seront nommés, mais pour cette seule fois-ci, +et comme un cas tout particulier, de la manière qui a été convenue, +il y a quelque tems, entre les deux Puissances Contractantes, et +ils commenceront à gouverner les deux Provinces conformément à la +Constitution, laquelle est une suite des stipulations dont il a été +parlé plus haut. + +Sa Majesté l’Empereur de Russie voulant donner une nouvelle preuve +des égards et de la considération qu’il a pour Sa Hautesse, et hâter +le moment ou la Sublime Porte usera des droits que les Traités lui +assurent sur les deux Provinces, ordonnera à ses troupes, une fois que +les Princes auront été nommés, de se retirer des deux Provinces. Ce +point aura son exécution deux mois après la nomination des Princes. +Et comme une compensation est dû en toute justice pour les avantages +que la Sublime Porte accorde par faveur aux Valaques et aux Moldaves, +il est convenu et arrêté que le tribut annuel, que les deux Provinces +doivent lui payer d’après les Traités, est fixé desormais à six mille +bourses (c. à d. à trois millions de piastres Turques); et les Princes +auront soin que cette somme lui soit payée annuellement à compter du 1 +Janvier, 1835. + +Il est convenu entre les deux Cours que le nombre des Troupes, qui +seront employées comme garnisons dans l’intérieur des deux Provinces, +sera fixé d’une manière invariable et au gré de la Sublime Porte, et +que celle-ci donnera les drapeaux aux garnisons, et le pavillon aux +bâtimens marchands Valaco-Moldaves qui naviguent sur le Danube. + + + ARTICLE III. + +En égard au désir témoigné par Sa Hautesse d’exécuter scrupuleusement +les engagemens qu’elle a pris par le troisième Article de l’Acte +explicatif et separé qui fait suite au Traité d’Andrinople, et par le +Traité de Pétersbourg y rélatif, Sa Majesté l’Empereur de toutes les +Russies a bien voulu offrir de nouvelles facilités dans l’exécution +des engagemens imposés par les Actes ci-dessus mentionnés à la Sublime +Porte, et par conséquent il est convenu: + +1º. Que quoiqu’il ait été stipulé par le second Article du Traité de +St. Pétersbourg, que la Sublime Porte payera annuellement, et pendant +huit ans, un million de ducats de Hollande, elle ne payera que cinq +cent mille ducats par an. + +2º. Que la Sublime Porte n’est plus obligée, comme elle l’était +jusqu’ici, de payer au mois de Mai de chaque année, et en une seule +fois, tout l’argent qui était dû pour l’année, et qu’elle paiera +desormais les cinq cent mille ducats peu à peu, mais en entier dans +l’intervalle du mois de Mai d’une année au mois de Mai de l’année +suivante. + +3º. Que Sa Majesté Impériale renonce à son droit de demander la +différénce, qu’il y avait à l’époque de chaque paiement de la portion +des indemnités pour les frais de la guerre et pour le commerce, entre +le prix auquel la Sublime Porte payait le ducat en piastres Turques, et +la véritable valeur des ducats. + +4º. Qu’en outre, Sa Majesté Impériale, prenant en considération +les embarras dans lesquels le Trésor de cet Empire s’est trouvé +dernièrement, consent à défalquer sur le champ deux millions de ducats, +ce qui est le tiers du solde des indemnités pour les frais de la guerre. + +5º. Que vu la défalcation ci-dessus énoncée et les autres dispositions +dont il a été parlé plus haut, le total des indemnités est de quatre +millions de ducats de Hollande, dont la première portion à payer dans +un an, comme une compte, consiste en 500,000 ducats, et sera payé du +1er Mai, 1834, au 1er Mai, 1835, et les portions préalables +dans les années suivantes seront payées de la même manière jusqu’à +l’acquittement de la dette; mais à condition que les assurances, les +garanties, et les facilités stipulées par les Articles 4, 5, 6, 7, et +9, du Traité de St. Pétersbourg conserveront, jusqu’alors toute leur +vigueur, comme s’ils étaient insérées mot à mot dans le présent Traité. + + + CONCLUSION. + +En vertu des pouvoirs qui m’ont été donnés, j’ai conclu le présent +Traité, qui sera ratifié par les deux Parties Contractantes, et dont +les ratifications seront échangées à Constantinople, dans le terme +de six semaines, ou plutôt si faire se pourra; j’y ai apposé mon +cachet, et mis ma signature, et je l’ai remis à leurs Excellences les +Plénipotentiaires de la Cour de Russie à Pétersbourg, en échange de la +pièce qu’ils m’ont remise. + + Fait le 18 Ramazan, 1249. + + END OF VOL. I. + + + C. WHITING, BEAUFORT HOUSE, STRAND. + + + + + TRANSCRIBERS’ NOTES + +In this version, text originally printed in italics is marked with +_underscores_ and small caps have been converted to ALL CAPITALS. + +In the original text, Appendices A and B were printed in two columns, +with the French version on the left side of each page and the English +translation on the right. In this version, the texts have been +separated: the complete English text appears first, followed by the +full French text. + +The last listing in the “List of Plates” is: Frontispiece, Vol. II. +Towing boats on the Danube. This illustration does not appear in Vol. +I, but is used as the Frontispiece for Vol. II. + +In some cases, the placement of the illustrations has been adjusted to +better align with the text. + +Page headings have been placed as sidenotes and enclosed in ‘♦’ symbols. + +Original spellings have been kept as printed with the following +exceptions: + +Page v: “no” changed to “not” in - “...the steam-boats do not yet +regularly proceed further...” + +Page v: a period was added to end of sentence - “...down the Danube +than Galacz.” + +Page vi: “poceeding” changed to “proceeding” - “...this strange +proceeding on the part of...” + +Page 45: “it-” changed to “its” - “...the day had now nearly reached +its close...” + +Page 50: a period was added to end of sentence - “...then the lead +passes on to him who does.” + +Page 50: “an” changed to “and” - “...rose from its bed in the sand and +floated into deeper water...” + +Page 62: “winte” changed to “winter” - “...have no chance of being +extricated from their position until the winter...” + +Page 71: “mmediately” changed to “immediately” - “...we should have +immediately quitted Moldava...” + +Page 85: a period was added to end of sentence - “... more than one +volcanic convulsion.” + +Page 191: an “I” added to beginning of the sentence - “I calculated +that it would take a day...” + +Page 244: “Forsets” changed to “Forests” - “...of the way—Forests of +Hæmus—...” + + + + + NEW WORKS + Just published by + RICHARD BENTLEY, 8, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, + PUBLISHER IN ORDINARY TO HIS MAJESTY. + + 1. + + In 1 vol. 8vo, price 10_s._ 6_d._, with a Portrait of Mr. Beckford, + from an Original Painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds, + AN EXCURSION TO THE MONASTERIES OF + ALCOBACA AND BATALHA + By the Author of “Vathek.” + +“Every class and order of society in Portugal is here placed vividly +before us; quite as amusingly as they could have been in a novel of +manners.”--_Quarterly Review_, July, 1835. + + ALSO BY THE SAME AUTHOR, + Third Edition, in 2 vols. 8vo, + ITALY; + WITH SKETCHES OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. + +“One of the most elegant productions of modern literature. It will keep +Mr. Beckford’s name alive for centuries.”--_Quarterly Review._ + + 2. + + In 2 vols., with Plates, + A SUMMER RAMBLE IN SYRIA, + WITH A TARTAR TRIP FROM + ALEPPO TO STAMBOUL. + By the REV. VERE MONRO. + + 3. + + In 2 vol. 8vo, with two Portraits, + MEMOIRS OF LORD BOLINGBROKE, + AND OF HIS TIMES, + By GEORGE WINGROVE COOKE, ESQ. + +“To Mr. Wingrove Cooke, of the English Bar, belongs the high praise of +having produced a biography of the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke, at once +full, exact, and impartial.”--_Times._ + + 4. + + In 3 vols., small 8vo, with a Portrait of the Author, + A PILGRIMAGE TO THE HOLY LAND, &c. + By M. DE LAMARTINE. + +“Lamartine’s European reputation will be infinitely heightened by these +delightful volumes. As a book of travels the work is valuable for its +descriptions of Syria, and the whole neighbourhood of Mount Lebanon and +Baalbec. We should have quoted largely had we been dealing with a work +less certain of popularity.”--_Quarterly Review_, July, 1835. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 78133 *** |