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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/7778-0.txt b/7778-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5d048b --- /dev/null +++ b/7778-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8159 @@ +Project Gutenberg’s History of California, by Helen Elliott Bandini + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: History of California + +Author: Helen Elliott Bandini + + +Release Date: March, 2005 [EBook #7778] +This file was first posted on May 16, 2003 +Last Updated: October 31, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan + + + + + + + + +HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA + + +By Helen Elliot Bandini + + + +Illustrated By Roy J. Warren + +B. Cal. W. P. 16 + + + + +Preface + + + +This book is an attempt to present the history of California in so +simple and interesting a way that children may read it with pleasure. +It does not confine itself to the history of one section or period, but +tells the story of all the principal events from the Indian occupancy +through the Spanish and Mission days, the excitement of the gold +discovery, the birth of the state, down to the latest events of +yesterday and to-day. Several chapters, also, are devoted to the +development of California’s great industries. The work is designed not +only for children, but also for older people interested in the story of +California, including the tourists who visit the state by the thousand +every year. + +For her information the writer has depended almost entirely upon source +material, seldom making use of a secondary work. Her connection with the +old Spanish families has opened to her unusual advantages for the study +of old manuscripts and for the gathering of recollections of historical +events which she has taken from the lips of aged Spanish residents, +always verifying a statement before using it. She has, also, from long +familiarity with the Spanish-speaking people, been able to interpret +truly the life of the Spanish and Mission period. + +The illustrator of the history, Mr. Roy J. Warren, has made a careful +study of the manuscript, chapter by chapter. He has also been a faithful +student of California and her conditions; his illustrations are, +therefore, in perfect touch with the text and are as true to facts as +the history itself. + +The thanks of the author are due not only to a host of writers from whom +she has gained valuable assistance, and some of whose names are among +those in the references at the end of the book, but to others to whom +further acknowledgment is due. First of these is Professor H. Morse +Stephens, whose suggestions from the inception of the work until its +completion have been of incalculable advantage, and whose generous +offer to read the proof sheets crowns long months of friendly +interest. Secondly, the author is indebted to the faithful and constant +supervision of her sister, Miss Agnes Elliott of the Los Angeles State +Normal School, without whose wide experience as a teacher of history +and economics the work could never have reached its present plane. The +author also offers her thanks to Mr. Charles F. Lummis, to whom not only +she but all students of California history must ever be indebted; to +Mrs. Mary M. Coman, Miss Isabel Frazee, to the officers of the various +state departments, especially Mr. Lewis E. Aubrey, State Mineralogist, +and Mr. Thomas J. Kirk and his assistant Mr. Job Wood of the educational +department; to Miss Nellie Rust, Librarian of the Pasadena City Library, +and her corps of accommodating and intelligent assistants, and to the +librarians of the Los Angeles City Library and State Normal School. + +The passages from the Century Magazine quoted in Chapters V-IX are +inserted by express permission of the publishers, the Century Company. +Acknowledgment is due, also, to the publishers of the Overland Monthly +for courtesy in permitting the use of copyright material; and to D. +Appleton & Co. for permission to insert selections from Sherman’s +Memoirs. + + + +Contents + + + +Chapter + + I. The Land and the Name + II. The Story of the Indians + III. “The Secret of the Strait” + IV. The Cross of Santa Fe + V. Pastoral Days + VI. The Footsteps of the Stranger + VII. At the Touch of King Midas + VIII. The Great Stampede + IX. The Birth of the Golden Baby + X. The Signal Gun and the Steel Trail + XI. That Which Followed After + XII. “The Groves Were God’s First Temples” + XIII. To All that Sow the Time of Harvest Should be Given + XIV. The Golden Apples of the Hesperides + XV. California’s Other Contributions to the World’s Bill of Fare + XVI. The Hidden Treasures of Mother Earth + XVII. From La Escuela of Spanish California to the Schools of the + Twentieth Century +XVIII. Statistics + +Bibliography Index + + + +History of California + + + +Chapter I. + +The Land and the Name + + + +Once upon a time, about four hundred years ago, there was published in +old Spain a novel which soon became unusually popular. The successful +story of those days was one which caught the fancy of the men, was read +by them, discussed at their gatherings, and often carried with them when +they went to the wars or in search of adventures. This particular story +would not interest readers of to-day save for this passage: “Know that +on the right hand of the Indies there is an island called California, +very near the Terrestrial Paradise, and it is peopled by black women who +live after the fashion of Amazons. This island is the strongest in the +world, with its steep rocks and great cliffs, and there is no metal in +the island but gold.” + +There is no doubt that some bold explorer, crossing over from Spain to +Mexico and enlisting under the leadership of the gallant Cortez, sailed +the unknown South Sea (the Pacific) and gave to the new land discovered +by one of Cortez’s pilots the name of the golden island in this favorite +story. + +This land, thought to be an island, is now known to us as the peninsula +of Lower California. The name first appeared in 1542 on the map of +Domingo Castillo, and was soon applied to all the land claimed by Spain +from Cape San Lucas up the coast as far north as 44¼, which was probably +a little higher than any Spanish explorer had ever sailed. + +“Sir Francis Drake,” says the old chronicle, “was the first Englishman +to sail on the back side of America,” and from that time until now +California has been considered the back door of the country. This was +natural because the first settlements in the United States were along +the Atlantic seacoast. The people who came from England kept their faces +turned eastward, looking to the Mother Country for help, and watching +Europe, and later England herself, as a quarter from which danger might +come, as indeed it did in the war of the Revolution and that of 1812. + +During the last few years, however, various events have happened to +change this attitude. Through its success in the late Spanish war the +United States gained confidence in its own powers, while the people of +the old world began to realize that the young republic of the western +hemisphere, since it did not hesitate to make war in the interests of +humanity, would not be apt to allow its own rights to be imposed upon. +The coming of the Philippine and Hawaiian Islands under the protection +of the United States, the Russo-Japanese war, which opened the eyes of +the world to the strength of Japan and the wisdom of securing its trade, +and the action of the United States in undertaking the building of +the Panama Canal, are indications that the Pacific will in the future +support a commerce the greatness of which we of to-day cannot estimate. +With danger from European interference no longer pressing closely +upon the nation, President Roosevelt in 1907 took a decided step in +recognizing the importance of the Pacific when he sent to that coast +so large a number of the most modern vessels of the navy. In fact, the +nation may now be said to have faced about, California becoming the +front door of our country. + +It is well, then, to ask ourselves what we know about the state which is +to form part of the reception room of one of the leading nations of the +world. + +It is a long strip of territory, bounded on one side by the ocean +so well named Pacific, which gives freshness and moisture to the +ever-blowing westerly winds. + +On the other side is a mountain range, one thousand miles long, with +many of its peaks covered with perpetual snow, holding in its lofty arms +hundreds of ice-cold lakes, its sides timbered with the most wonderful +forests of the world. + +Few regions of the same size have so great a range of altitude as +California, some portions of its desert lands being below sea level, +while several of its mountains are over ten thousand feet in height. In +its climate, too, there are wide differences as regards heat and +cold, although its coast lands, whether north or south, are much more +temperate than the corresponding latitudes on the Atlantic coast. The +difference in the climate of the northern and southern portions of the +state is more marked in the matter of moisture. Most of the storms of +California have their beginning out in the North Pacific Ocean. They +travel in a southeasterly direction, striking the coast far to the north +in summer, but in winter extending hundreds of miles farther south. +During November, December, January, and February they often reach as +far south as the Mexican line. Then, only, does southern California +have rain. The water necessary for use in the summer time is gained by +irrigation from the mountain streams, which are supplied largely from +the melting snows on the Sierras. + +The home lands of the state may be divided into two portions: the +beautiful border country rising from the Pacific in alternate valleys +and low rolling foothills to the edge of the Coast Range; and the great +central valley or basin, which lies like a vast pocket almost entirely +encircled by mountains the high Sierras on the east, on the west the low +Coast Range. Two large rivers with their tributaries drain this valley: +the San Joaquin, flowing from the south; and the Sacramento, flowing +from the north. Joining near the center of the state, they cut their way +through the narrow passage, the Strait of Carquinez, and casting their +waters into the beautiful Bay of San Francisco, finally reach the ocean +through the Golden Gate. + +Down from the Sierras, mighty glaciers carried the soil for this central +valley, grinding and pulverizing it as it was rolled slowly along. Many +years this process continued. The rain, washing the mountain sides, +brought its tribute in the rich soil and decayed vegetation of the +higher region, until a natural seed bed was formed, where there can +be raised in abundance a wonderful variety of plants and trees. In the +coast valleys the soil is alluvial, the fine washing of mountain rocks; +this is mixed in some places with a warmer, firmer loam and in others +with a gravelly soil, which is the best known for orange raising. + +The state owes much to her mountains, for not only have they contributed +to her fertile soil, but they hold in their rocky slopes the gold and +silver mines which have transformed the whole region from an unknown +wilderness to a land renowned for its riches and beauty. They lift their +lofty peaks high in the air like mighty strongholds, and, shutting +out the desert winds, catch the clouds as they sail in from the ocean, +making them pay heavy tribute in fertilizing rain to the favored land +below. + +The climate, which of all the precious possessions of California is the +most valuable, is best described by Bret Harte in the lines, “Half a +year of clouds and flowers; half a year of dust and sky.” Either half is +enjoyable, for in the summer, or dry season, fogs or delightful westerly +winds soon moderate a heated spell, and in nearly all parts of the state +the nights are cool; while the rainy, or winter season, changes to balmy +springtime as soon as the storm is over. + +In a large portion of the state the climate is such that the inhabitants +may spend much of their time out of doors. As a rule few duties are +attended to in the house which can possibly be performed in the open +air. It is growing to be more and more the custom to have, in connection +with a Californian home, a tent bedroom where the year round one or more +of the members of the family sleep, with only a wall of canvas between +them and nature. + +The vacation time is spent largely in summer camps, at either mountain +or seashore, or, quite often, a pleasant party of one or two families +live together, very simply, under the greenwood tree beside some spring +or stream, spending a few weeks in gypsy fashion. While the young folk +grow sturdy and beautiful, the older members of the party become filled +with strength and a joy of living which helps them through the cares +and struggles of the rest of the year. This joy in outdoor life is not, +however, a discovery of to-day. The old Spanish families spent as much +time as possible in the courtyard, the house being deserted save at +night. When upon journeys, men, women, and children slept in the +open air. Even the clothes-washing period was turned into a kind +of merrymaking. Whole families joined together to spend days in the +vicinity of some stream, where they picnicked while the linen was being +cleansed in the running water and dried on the bushes near by. + +Once before, when the world was younger, there was a land similar to +this,--sea-kissed, mountain-guarded, with such gentle climate and +soft skies. Its people, who also lived much out of doors at peace +with nature, became almost perfect in health and figure, with mental +qualities which enabled them to give to the world the best it has known +in literature and art. What the ancient Greeks were, the people +of California may become; but with an advancement in knowledge and +loving-kindness of man toward man which heathen Athens never knew. + +What will be the result of this outdoor life cannot yet be told; climate +has always had an active influence in shaping the character and type of +a people. With a climate mild and healthful, yet bracing; with a soil so +rich that the touch of irrigation makes even the sandiest places bloom +with the highest beauty of plant, tree, and vine; with an ocean warm and +gentle, and skies the kindliest in the world,--there is, if we judge by +the lesson history teaches, a promise of a future for California greater +and more noble than the world has yet known. + + + +Chapter II. + +The Story of the Indians + + + +“Run, Cleeta, run, the waves will catch you.” Cleeta scudded away, her +naked little body shining like polished mahogany. She was fleet of foot, +but the incoming breakers from the bosom of the great Pacific ran faster +still; and the little Indian girl was caught in its foaming water, +rolled over and over, and cast upon the sandy beach, half choked, yet +laughing with the fun of it. + +“Foolish Cleeta, you might have been drowned; that was a big wave. What +made you go out so far?” said Gesnip, the elder sister. + +“I found such a lot of mussels, great big ones, I wish I could go back +and get them,” said the little one, looking anxiously at the water. + +“The waves are coming in higher and higher and it is growing late,” said +Gesnip; “besides, I have more mussels already than you and I can well +carry. The boys have gone toward the river mouth for clams. They will be +sure to go home the other way.” + +Cleeta ran to the basket and looked in. + +“I should think there were too many for us to carry,” she said, as she +tried with all her strength to lift it by the carry straps. “What will +you do with them; throw some back into the water?” + +“No, I don’t like to do that,” answered her sister, frowning, “for it +has been so long since we have had any. The wind and the waves have been +too high for us to gather any. Look, Cleeta, look; what are those out on +the water? I do believe they are boats.” + +“No,” said the little girl; “I see what you mean, but boats never go out +so far as that.” + +“Not tule boats,” said Gesnip, “but big thick one made out of trees; +that is the kind they have at Santa Catalina, the island where uncle +lives. It has been a long time since he came to see us, not since you +were four years old, but mother is always looking for him.” + +The children gazed earnestly seaward at a fleet of canoes which were +making for the shore. “Do you think it is uncle?” asked Cleeta. + +“Yes,” replied her sister, uncertainly, “I think it may be.” Then, as +the sunlight struck full on the boats “Yes, yes, I am sure of it, for +one is red, and no on else has a boat of that color; all others are +brown.” + +“Mother said he would bring abalone when he came,” cried Cleeta, dancing +from one foot to the other; “and she said they are better than mussels +or anything else for soup.” + +“He will bring fish,” said Gesnip, “big shining fish with yellow tails.” + +“Mother said he would bring big blue ones with hard little seams down +their sides,” said Cleeta. + +Meantime the boats drew nearer. They were of logs hollowed out until +they were fairly light, but still seeming too clumsy for safe seagoing +craft. In each were several men. One sat in the stern and steered, the +others knelt in pairs, each man helping propel the boat by means of +a stick some four feet long, more like a pole than a paddle, which he +worked with great energy over the gunwale. + +“I am afraid of them,” said Cleeta, drawing close to her sister. “They +do not look like the people I have seen. Their faces are the color of +the kah-hoom mother weaves in her baskets. There are only three like us, +and they all have such strange clothes.” + +“Do not be afraid,” said Gesnip. “I see uncle; he is one of the dark +ones like ourselves. The island people have yellow skins.” + +The time was the year 1540, and the people, the Californians of that +day. The men in the boat were mostly from the island of Santa Catalina, +and were fairer, with more regular features, than the inhabitants of the +mainland, who in southern California were a short, thick-set race, +with thick lips, dark brown skin, coarse black hair, and eyes small and +shining like jet-black beads. They were poorly clothed in winter; in +summer a loin cloth was often all that the men wore, while the children +went naked a large part of the year. + +With wonderful skill the badly shaped boats were guided safely over the +breakers until their bows touched the sand. Then the men leaped out and, +half wading, half swimming, pulled them from the water and ran them up +on the beach. + +The little girls drew near and stood quietly by, waiting to be spoken +to. Presently the leading man, who was short, dark, and handsomely +dressed in a suit of sealskin ornamented with abalone shell, turned to +them. + +“Who are these little people?” he asked, in a kind voice. + +“We are the children of Cuchuma and Macana,” replied Gesnip, working her +toes in and out of the soft sand, too shy to look her uncle in the face. + +“Children of my sister, Sholoc is glad to see you,” said the chief, +laying his hand gently on Cleeta’s head. “Your mother, is she well?” + +“She is well and looking for you these many moons,” said Gesnip. + +The men at once began unloading the boats. The children watched the +process with great interest, Abalone in their shells, a dainty prized +then as well as now, fish, yellowtail and bonito, filled to the brim the +large baskets which the men slung to their backs, carrying them by means +of a strap over the forehead. On their heads they placed ollas, or water +jars, of serpentine from quarries which may be seen in Santa Catalina +to-day, the marks of the tools of workmen of, that time still in the +rocks. + +There were also strings of bits of abalone shell which had been +punctured and then polished, and these Sholoc hung around his neck. + +“Uncle,” exclaimed Gesnip, touching one of these strings, “how much +money! You have grown rich at Santa Catalina. What will you buy?” + +“Buy me a wife, perhaps,” was the reply. “I will give two strings for a +good wife. Do you know any worth so much?” + +“No,” said the girl, stoutly. “I don’t know any worth two whole strings +of abalone. You can get a good wife for much less.” + +The men, who had succeeded in loading the contents of the boats on their +heads and backs, now marched away, in single file, crossing the heavy +sand dunes slowly, then mounting the range of foothills beyond. The +children followed. Gesnip had her basket bound to her head by a strap +round her forehead; but, though her uncle had taken out part of the +contents, it was a heavy load for the child. + +As they neared the top of the hill, Sholoc, who was ahead, lifted his +hand and motioned them to stop. + +“Hush,” he said softly, “elk.” Swiftly the men slipped off their loads +and with bows in hand each one crept flat on his belly over the hill +crest. Gesnip and Cleeta peeped through the high grass. Below them was +a wide plain, dotted with clumps of bushes, and scattered over it they +could see a great herd of elk, whose broad, shining antlers waved above +the grass and bushes upon which they were feeding. + +“Are those elk too?” asked Cleeta, presently, pointing toward the +foothills at their left. + +“No,” replied her sister, “I think those are antelope. I like to see +them run. How funny their tails shake. But watch the men; they are going +to shoot.” + +As she spoke, four of the hunters, who had crept well up toward +the game, rose to their feet, holding their bows horizontally, not +perpendicularly. These weapons, which were made of cedar wood, were +about four feet in length, painted at the ends black or dark blue, the +middle, which was almost two inches broad, being wrapped with elk sinew. +The strings also were of sinew. The quiver which each man carried at his +side was made from the skin of a wild cat or of a coyote. A great hunter +like Sholoc might make his quiver from the tails of lions he had killed. +Projecting from the quiver were the bright-feathered ends of the arrows, +which were of reed and were two or three feet long, with points of bone, +flint, or obsidian. + +The hunters, knowing how hard it was to kill large game, had chosen +their arrows carefully, taking those that had obsidian points. Almost +at the same moment they let fly their shafts. Three elk leaped into the +air. One tumbled over in a somersault which broke one of its antlers, +and then lay dead, shot through the heart by Sholoc. Another took a few +leaps, but a second arrow brought it to its knees. Then it sank slowly +over upon its side; but it struck so fiercely at the hunter who ran up +to kill it with his horn knife that he drew back and shot it again. + +“Where is the third elk?” asked Cleeta, looking around. + +“Over there,” said Gesnip, pointing across the plain. + +“Then they have lost it,” said the child, with disappointment. + +“No, I think not. It is wounded. I saw the blood on its side,” said +the sister. “See, one of the men is following it, and it is half a mile +behind the herd. I am sure he will get it.” + +“This has been a lucky day,” said Gesnip. “So much food. Our stomachs +will not ache with hunger for a long time.” + +“That is because mother wove a game basket to Chinigchinich so he would +send food,” said Cleeta. + +By the time the party had traveled two miles, Gesnip, with her load, and +Cleeta, whose bare brown legs were growing very tired, lagged behind. + +“O dear,” said the elder sister, “we shall surely be too late to go into +camp with uncle.” Just then a whoop sounded behind them, and a boy of +thirteen, dressed in a rabbit-skin shirt, carrying a bow in his hand, +came panting up to them. + +“Payuchi,” said Gesnip, eagerly, “carry my basket for me and I will tell +you some good news.” + +“No,” replied Payuchi, shaking his head, “it is a girl’s place to carry +the basket.” + +“Just this little way, and it is such good news” urged Gesnip. “It will, +make your heart glad.” + +“Very well, then, tell it quickly,” said the boy, changing the basket of +mussels to his own broad back. + +“Sholoc has come from Santa Catalina with baskets of abalone and fish, +and with ollas all speckled, and strings of money. He is near the top of +the grade now. Upon hearing the good news the lad darted away at a great +pace, his sisters following as fast as they could. Sholoc and his party +had stopped to rearrange their loads, so the children overtook them at +the head of the trail leading to their home. + +“Below them was a valley dotted with live oaks, and along the banks of +the stream that ran through it was a thick growth of alders, sycamores, +and willows. At the foot of the trail, near the water, was a cluster +of what looked like low, round straw stacks. No straw stacks were they, +however, but houses, the only kind of homes known in southern California +at that time. + +“It was the Indian settlement where Gesnip, Cleeta, and Payuchi lived, +and of which their father, Cuchuma, was chief. The jacals, or wigwams, +were made of long willow boughs, driven into the ground closely in a +circle, the ends bent over and tied together with deer sinews. They were +covered with a thatching of grass that, when dry, made them look like +straw stacks. + +“Sholoc stepped to the-edge of the bluff and gave a long, quavering cry +which could be heard far in the still evening air. Instantly out of the +group of jacals came a crowd of men and boys, who gave answering cries.” + +“I am glad they have a fire,” said Cleeta, as she saw the big blaze in +the middle of the settlement, “I am so cold.” + +“Take my hand and let’s run,” said Gesnip, and partly running and partly +sliding, they followed the men of the party, who, notwithstanding their +heavy loads, were trotting down the steep trail. + +They were met at the foot of the grade by a crowd which surrounded them, +all chattering at once. Sholoc told of the elk, and a number of men +started off on the run to bring in the big game. As the visitors entered +camp, Macana, a kind-faced woman, better dressed than most of her +tribe, came forward. She placed her hand on Sholoc’s shoulder, her face +lighting up with love and happiness. + +“You are welcome, brother,” she said. + +“The sight of you is good to my eyes, sister,” an answered Sholoc. That +was all the greeting, although the two loved each other well. Macana +took the basket from Payuchi’s back. + +“Come,” she called to Gesnip, “and help me wash the mussels.” Then, +as she saw the younger girl shivering as she crouched over the fire, +“Cleeta, you need not be cold any longer; your rabbit skin dress is +done. Go into the jacal and put it on.” Cleeta obeyed with dancing eyes. + +Gesnip followed her mother to the stream. + +“Take this,” said Macana, handing her an openwork net or bag, “and hold +it while I empty in some of the mussels. Now lift them up and down in +the water to wash out the sand. That will do; put them into this basket, +and I will give you some more.” + +Meantime some of the women had taken a dozen or more fish from Sholoc’s +baskets, and removing their entrails with bone knives, wrapped them in +many thicknesses of damp grass and laid them in the hot ashes and coals +to bake. + +When the mussels were all cleaned, Macana emptied them into a large +basket half filled with water, and threw in a little acorn meal and a +handful of herbs. Then, using two green sticks for tongs, she drew out +from among the coals some smooth gray stones which had become very hot. +Brushing these off with a bunch of tules, she lifted them by means of +a green stick having a loop in the end which fitted round the stones, +flinging them one by one into the basket in which were the mussels and +water. Immediately the water, heated by the stones, began to boil, and +when the soup was ready, she set the basket down beside her own jacal +and called her children to her. Payuchi, Gesnip, Cleeta, and their +little four-year-old brother, Nakin, gathered about the basket, helping +themselves with abalone shells, the small holes of which their mother +had plugged with wood. + +“Isn’t father going to have some first?” asked Payuchi, before they +began the meal. + +“Not this time; he will eat with Sholoc and the men when the fish are +ready,” replied his mother. + +“This is good soup,” said Gesnip. “I am glad I worked hard before the +water came up. But, Payuchi, didn’t you and Nopal get any clams?” + +“Yes,” said her brother, making a face; he had dipped down where the +stones were hottest and the soup thickest, and had taken a mouthful that +burned him. “Yes, we got some clams, more than I could carry; but Nopal +was running races with the other boys and would not come, so I left him +to bring them. He will lose his fish dinner if he doesn’t hurry.” + +“Mother,” said Cleeta, “may we stay up to the fish bake?” + +“No,” answered her mother. “You and Nakin must go to bed, but I will +save some for your breakfast. You are tired, Cleeta.” + +“Yes, I am tired,” said the little girl, leaning her head against her +mother’s shoulder, “but I am warm in my rabbit-skin dress. We all have +warm dresses now. Please tell me a good-night story,” she begged. “We +have been good and brought in much food.” + +“Yes, tell us how the hawk and coyote made the sun,” said Gesnip. + +“Very well,” said the mother, “only you must be quite still.” + +“It was in the beginning of all things, and a bowl of darkness, blacker +than the pitch lining of our water basket, covered the earth. Man, +when he would go abroad, fell against man, against trees, against wild +animals, even against Lollah, the bear, who would, in turn, hug the +unhappy one to death. Birds flying in the air came together and fell +struggling to the earth. All was confusion.” + +“Once the hawk, by chance, flew in the face of the coyote. Instead of +fighting about it as naughty children might, they, like people of good +manners, apologized many times. Then they talked over the unhappy state +of things and determined to remedy the evil. The coyote first gathered +a great heap of dried tules, rolled them together into a ball, and gave +them to the hawk, with some pieces of flint. The hawk, taking them in +his talons, flew straight up into the sky, where he struck fire with his +flints, lit the ball of reeds, and left it there whirling along with a +bright yellow light, as it continues to whirl to-day; for it, children, +is our sun, ruler of the day.” + +“The hawk next flew back for another ball to rule the night, but the +coyote had no tule gathered, and the hawk hurried him so that some damp +stems were mixed in. The hawk flew with this ball into the sky and set +it afire but because of the green tules it burned with only a dim light; +and this, children, is our moon, ruler of the night.” + +“That is a fine story,” said Payuchi. “I am glad I did not live when +there was no light.” + +“Tell us how the coyote danced with the star,” said Gesnip. + +“No,” replied the mother, “another time we shall see. Now I shall sing +to coax sleep to tired eyes, and the little ones will go to bed.” And +this was what she sang: “Pah-high-nui-veve, veve, veve, shumeh, veve, +veve, veve, shumeh, Pah-high-nui-veve,” and so on, repeating these words +over and over until Cleeta and Nakin were sound asleep. Then she laid +them on their tule mats, which were spread on the floor of the jacal, +where baby Nahal, close wrapped in his cocoon-shaped cradle, had been a +long time sleeping. + +“Mother,” said Gesnip, coming into the jacal, “they have brought in the +elk. Don’t you want something from them?” + +“Yes,” replied Macana, “I will go and see about it. I want one of the +skins to make your father a warm hunting dress.” + +The Indians who had gone after the elk had skinned and cut them up where +they lay, as they were so large that the burden had to be distributed +among a number of carriers. Macana found Sholoc busy portioning out +parts of the elk. As he had a fine seal-skin suit himself, he gladly +gave her the skin of the deer which he had shot. + +“Isn’t that a big one?” said Payuchi. “It will make father a fine +hunting suit, it is so thick.” Gesnip was loaded down with some of the +best cuts of the meat to take to her father’s jacal. Cuchuma himself +began removing the tendons from the legs, to cure for bowstrings, and to +wrap a new bow he was going to make. + +“Here, Nopal,” said Sholoc to his oldest nephew, a lad of fifteen, “I +will give you a piece of the antler and you can grind it down and make +yourself a hunting knife. It is time you ceased to play and became a +hunter. I had killed much game when I was your age.” + +“Will you give me some of the brains that I may finish tanning a +deerskin? I have been waiting to finish it until I could get some +brains, but it has been a long time since any one has brought in big +game,” said Macana. + +“Yes,” answered Sholoc, “you shall have them. Payuchi, hand me my +elk-horn ax so that I can split open the head, and you can take the +brains to the jacal.” Soon not a piece of meat, a bit of skin, tendon, +or bone, was left. All was put to use by these people of the forest. And +now the feast was ready. The women had roasted many pieces of elk’s meat +over the coals. The fish had been taken from under the hot ashes, the +half burned grass removed from around them, and the fish broken into +pieces and put in flat baskets shaped like platters. There were also +pieces of elk meat and cakes of acorn meal baked on hot stones. + +As was the custom with the Indians, the men were served first. Payuchi +watched anxiously as his father and the other men took large helpings +from the baskets. + +“Do you think there will be enough for us to have any?” he asked Gesnip. +“I am so hungry and they are eating so much. If I were a man, I should +remember about the women and children.” + +“No; you wouldn’t if you were a man; men never do,” answered Gesnip. +“But you need not worry, there is plenty. Mother said there would be +some left for breakfast.” + +“Wait for that till I get through,” said Payuchi, laughing. After all +had eaten a hearty meal, more than for many weeks they had been able +to have at any one time, the tired women each gathered her children +together and took them to her own jacal, leaving the men sitting around +the camp fire. Payuchi, who tumbled to sleep as soon as his head touched +his sleeping mat, was wakened by some one pulling his rabbit-skin coat, +which he wore nights as well as days. + +“Payuchi,” said a voice, “wake up.” + +“I have not been asleep,” answered the boy, stoutly, as he rubbed his +eyes to get them open. “What do you want, Nopal?” for he saw his brother +speaking to him. + +“Hush, do not waken mother,” said Nopal, speaking very softly. “I know +that the men will make an offering to Chinigchinich. I am going to watch +them. We are old enough, at least I am. Do you want to come?” + +A star shone in at the top of the jacal, and Payuchi gazed up at it, +blinking, while he pulled his thoughts together. + +“They will punish us if they find us out,” said he at length. + +“But we won’t let them find us out, stupid one,” replied his brother, +impatiently. + +“What if Chinigchinich should be angry with us? He does not like to have +children in the ceremony of the offering,” said Payuchi. + +“I will give him my humming-bird skin, and you shall give him your +mountain quail head; then he will be pleased with us,” answered Nopal. + +“All right,” said the boy; “I do not like very well to part with that +quail head, but perhaps it is a good thing to do.” + +Creeping softly from the jacal, the boys crouched in the shade of a +willow bush and watched the men by the camp fire. + +“They are standing up. They are just going,” said Payuchi, “and every +one has something in his hand. Father has two bows; I wonder why.” + +“I think he is going to make an offering of the new bow to +Chinigchinich,” answered Nopal. “I thought he was going to keep it and +give me his old one,” he added, with some disappointment. + +“What are they offering for?” asked the young brother. + +“For rain,” said Nopal. “See, they are going now.” In single file the +men walked swiftly away, stepping so softly that not a twig cracked. + +After a little the boys followed, slipping from bush to bush that they +might not be discovered. They had walked about a mile, when they came +to thicker woods with bigger trees and saw a light ahead of them. Nopal +laid his hand on his brother to stop him. Peeping through a scrub-oak +bush, they looked down into a little glade arched over with great live +oaks. In the middle of the opening they saw, by the light of a low fire, +a small cone-shaped hut. Beside it stood a gigantic figure painted and +adorned with shells, feathers, rattlesnake skins, and necklaces of bone. + +“Come back,” whispered Payuchi, his teeth chattering with fear. “It is +Chinigchinich himself; he will see us, and we shall die.” + +“No,” answered Nopal, “it is only Nihie, the medicine man. He looks so +tall because of his headdress. It is made of framework of dried tules +covered with feathers and fish bladders. I saw it one day in his +jacal, and it is as tall as I am. That jacal beside him is the vanquech +[temple], and I think there is something awful there. You see if there +isn’t. Hush, now! Squat down. Here they come.” + +In a procession the men came into the opening, and, stalking solemnly +by, each cast down at the door of the temple an offering of some object +which he prized. Cuchuma gave a bone knife which he greatly valued, and +a handsome new bow. Sholoc gave a speckled green stone olla from Santa +Catalina and a small string of money; but these were chiefs’ offerings. +The other gifts were simpler--shells, acorn meal, baskets, birds’ skins, +but always something for which the owner cared. + +At last the medicine man, satisfied with the things offered which became +his own when the ceremony was over, stooped and drew forth the sacred +emblem from the temple. It was not even an idol, only a fetich composed +of a sack made from the skin of a coyote, the head carefully preserved +and stuffed, while the body was dressed smooth of hair and adorned +with hanging shells and tufts of birds’ feathers. A bundle of arrows +protruded from the open mouth, giving it a fierce appearance. While +Nihie held it up, the men circled round once again, this time more +rapidly, and as they passed the medicine man, each gave a spring into +the air, shooting an arrow upward with all his force. When the last man +had disappeared under the trees, Nihie replaced the skin in the temple, +put out the fire, and, singing a kind of chant, he led the men back +to their jacals. The boys stood up. Payuchi shivered and drew a long +breath. + +“We must get away now; Nihie will be back soon to get the offerings,” + said Nopal. + +“But first we must offer our gifts, or Chinigchinich will be angry,” + said Payuchi. + +“Come on, then,” said the brother; so, stealing softly down the +hillside, the boys cast their offerings on the pile in front of the hut +and ran away, taking a roundabout path home, that they might not meet +the medicine man returning. + +“We must hurry to get in the jacal before father,” said Nopal, suddenly. +“I didn’t think of that. Run, Payuchi, run faster.” But they were in +time after all, and were stretched out on their mats some minutes before +their father and Sholoc came in. + +Macana’s first duty in the morning was to attend to the baby, whose +wide-open black eyes gave the only sign that it was awake. She +unfastened it from the basket and unwrapped it, rubbing the little body +over with its morning bath of grease until the firm skin shone as if +varnished. When it had nursed and was comfortable, she put the little +one back in its cradle basket, which she leaned up against the side of +the hut, where the little prisoner might see all that was going on. + +Instead of the usual breakfast of acorn meal mush, the children had a +plentiful meal of fish which their mother had saved from the feast of +the night before. + +“I didn’t think any one could catch so many fish as uncle brought last +night,” said Cleeta, as she helped herself to a piece of yellowtail. + +“Yes, they do, though,” said Payuchi. “Last night, after supper, uncle +told the men some fine stories. I think he has been in places which none +of our people have ever seen. + +“He told us that once he journeyed many moons toward the land of snow +and ice until he came to the country of the Klamath tribe, where he +stayed a long time. He said that when they fish they drive posts made of +young trees into the bottom of the river and then weave willow boughs +in and out until there is a wall of posts and boughs clear across the +stream. Then the big red fish come up from the great water into the +river. They come, uncle said, so many no one can count them, and the +ones behind push against those in front until they are all crowded +against the wall, and then the Klamath men catch them with spears and +nets until there is food enough for all, and many fish to dry.” + +“I should like to see that. What else did he tell you?” asked Gesnip. + +“He said he visited one place where the great salt water comes into +the land and is so big it takes many days to journey round it. Here the +people eat fish, clams, and mussels instead of acorns and roots. On the +shore they have their feasting ground where they go to eat and dance and +tell big stories, and; sometimes to make an offering. So many people go +there, uncle said, that the shells they have left make a hill, a hill +just of shells that is many steps high. From the top of it one may look +over the water, which is so long no eye can see the end of it.” + +“What else did you hear?” asked Gesnip. + +“Nothing more, for mother called me,” replied her brother. “I should +like to hear more of those stories, though.” + +“Mother,” asked Gesnip, as she finished her breakfast, “when am I to +begin to braid mats for the new jacal?” + +“Soon,” replied Macana. “This morning you and Payuchi must gather +the tule. Have a large pile when I come home.” So saying, the mother +strapped the baby on her back and, accompanied by the younger children, +went out with other women of the tribe to gather the white acorns from +the oaks on the highlands pear the mountains. + +The December wind, from the snow-capped peaks, chilled and cut with +its icy breath their scantily clothed bodies, but for hours they worked +picking up the scattered nuts. The labors of an Indian mother ceased +only while she slept. + +“Come, Payuchi,” said Gesnip, “let us go down to the river and get +tules.” + +“All right,” replied the boy, readily. “Sholoc is going down too. He +is going to show the men how to make log canoes like his instead of the +tule canoes our people use. But I like the tule canoes, because I can +use my feet for paddles.” When they reached the river, which was really +a lagoon or arm of the sea, the children stopped to watch the men at +work. A large log, washed down from the mountains by some flood, lay +on the bank. It was good hard wood, and the children saw that it was +smoking in three places. + +“This is going to make two canoes, but neither one will be so big, as +uncle’s,” said Payuchi. + +“How can it make two canoes if they burn it up?” asked his sister. + +“You are stupid, Gesnip,” said her brother. “Don’t you see they are +burning it to separate it into two parts? Then they will burn each log +into the shape of a boat, finishing it up with axes of bone or horn. +Uncle told me how they did it.” + +“Why have they put the green bark on the top of the log?” + +“I think it is to keep it from burning along the edge; don’t you see? +And then there are wider pieces to protect it at the ends. See how they +watch the fire and beat it out in one place and then in another.” + +“Why does it burn so fast?” asked Gesnip. + +“Because they have daubed it with pitch. Can’t you smell it?” said the +boy, sniffing. + +“Yes, I can smell it,” replied his sister. “But come now and help me +gather tules. Father is going to burn down our house and build a new one +for winter, and I must make a tule rug for each one of you for beds in +the new home. It will take a great many tule stems.” + +“It is cold to wade,” said Payuchi, stepping into the water at the edge +of the river. + +“Yes,” answered Gesnip, “I don’t like to gather tules in winter.” + +The children pulled up the long rough stems one by one until they had a +large pile. + +“I think we have enough,” said Payuchi, after they had been working +about two hours. + +“Yes, I think so too,” said his sister. “My back aches, my hands are +sore, and my feet are so cold.” Payuchi brought some wild grapevine with +which he tied the tule into two bundles, fastening the larger upon his +sister’s back; for with his people the women and girls were the burden +bearers, and a grown Indian would not do any work that his wife could +possibly do for him. + +After they had traveled a little way on the homeward path, Gesnip +stopped. + +“Don’t go so fast, Payuchi,” she begged. “This bundle is so large it +nearly tumbles me over.” + +“Just hurry a little until we get to the foot of the hill yonder where +Nopal and the other big boys are playing, and you can rest while I watch +the game,” answered her brother. Gesnip struggled on, bending under the +weight and size of her awkward burden until, with a sigh of relief, she +seated herself on a stone to rest while Payuchi, throwing his bundle on +the ground, stood up to watch the boys. + +“See, Nopal is It,” he said. Nopal, coming forward, stooped low and +rolled a hoop along the ground, which the boys had pounded smooth and +hard for the game. + +As the hoop rolled another boy stepped forward and tried to throw a +stick through it, but failed. Then all the players pointed their fingers +at him and grunted in scorn. Again Nopal rolled the hoop, and this time +the boy threw through the ring, and all the boys, and Payuchi too, gave +whoops of delight. + +The children watched the game until Gesnip said that they must go on, +for their mother would be home and want them. When they returned, Macana +was warming herself by the fire where the men were sitting. + +“See our tule; is it not a great deal?” asked the children, showing +their bundles. + +“Yes, but not enough,” replied their mother. “You will have to go out +another day.” + +The women, who had been working all the morning gathering acorns, now +squatted near the fire and began grinding up the nuts which had been +already dried. + +“Gesnip,” called her mother, “bring me the grinding stones.” The girl +went to the jacal and brought two stones, one a heavy bowlder with a +hollow in its top, which had been made partly by stone axes, but more by +use; the other stone fitted into this hollow. + +“Now bring me the basket of roasted grasshoppers,” said the mother. +Taking a handful of grasshoppers, Macana put them into the hollow in the +larger stone, and with the smaller stone rubbed them to a coarse powder. +This powder she put into a small basket which Gesnip brought her. + +“I am glad we caught the grasshoppers. They taste better than acorn meal +mush,” said Payuchi. + +“How many grasshoppers there are in the fall,” said Gesnip, “and so many +rabbits, too.” + +“We had such a good time at the rabbit drive,” said Payuchi. + +“And such a big feast afterwards, nearly as good as last night,” said +Gesnip. + +“Tell me about the rabbit drive,” said Cleeta, squatting down beside the +children in front of the fire. + +“It was in the big wash up the river toward the mountains,” began +Payuchi. “You have seen the rabbits running to hide in a bunch of grass +and cactus when you go with mother to the mountains for acorns, haven’t +you?” + +Cleeta nodded. “Not this winter, though. We saw only two to-day,” she +said. + +“That is because of the drive,” said her brother. “It was in the +afternoon, with the wind blowing from the ocean, and all the men who +could shoot best with bow and arrow, or throw the spear well, stood on +the other side of the wash.” + +“Father was there,” said Cleeta. + +“Yes, and many others,” said Payuchi. “Then some of the men and all of +us boys got green branches of trees and came down on this side of the +wash. Nopal started the fire. It burned along in the grass slowly at +first, and when it came too near the jacals on one side or the woods +on the other, we would beat it out with the branches, but soon it +ran before the wind into the cactus and bunch grass. The rabbits were +frightened out and ran from the fire as fast as they could, and in a +few minutes they were right at the feet of father and the other hunters. +They killed forty before the smoke made them run too.” + +“My dress was made of their skin,” said the little girl, smoothing her +gown lovingly. “It keeps me so warm.” + +“Did the fire burn long?” asked Gesnip. + +“No, we beat it out, or it would have gone up the wash into the live +oaks; then we boys should have been well punished for our carelessness.” + +Here their mother called to them. + +“Payuchi,” she said, “put away this basket of grasshopper meal. And, +Gesnip, go to the jacal and find me the coils for basket weaving.” + +“What shall I bring?” asked Gesnip. + +“The large bundle of chippa that is soaking in a basket, and the big +coil of yellow kah-hoom and the little one of black tsuwish which are +hanging up, and bring me my needle and bone awl.” + +“Do you want the coil of millay?” + +“No, I shall need no red to-day.” + +Squatted on the ground, where she could feel the warmth of the fire on +her back, but where the heat could not dry her basket materials, Macana +began her work. Taking a dripping chippa, or willow bough, from the +basket where it had been soaking, she dried it on leaves and wound +it tightly in a close coil the size of her thumbnail, then spatted it +together until it seemed no longer a cord, but a solid piece of wood. +Thus she made the base of her basket; then, threading her needle, +which was but a horny cactus stem set in a head of hardened pitch, she +stitched in and out over the upper and under the lower layer, drawing +her thread firmly each time. The thread was the creamy, satin-like +kah-hoom. Round and round she coiled the chippa, the butt of one piece +overlapping the tip of another, while with her needle she covered all +with the smoothly drawn kah-hoom. After a time she laid the kah-hoom +aside for a stitch or two of the black root of the tule, called tsuwish. + +The children had watched the starting of the basket, then had begun +a game of match, with white and black pebbles. After a time Gesnip, +looking up from her play, exclaimed, as she saw the black diamond +pattern the weaver was making:-- + +“Mother, why are you weaving a rattlesnake basket?” + +“I am making it to please Chinigchinich that he may smile upon me and +guard you, children, and Cuchuma from the bite of the rattlesnake. There +are so many of them here this year, and I fear for you.” + +“Thank you, mother,” said Gesnip. “If Titas’s mother had made a black +diamond basket, maybe the snake would not have bitten her.” + +“I think Chinigchinich does smile upon you,” said Payuchi, “for when we +were so hungry in the month of roots [October] you wove him the hunting +basket with the pattern of deer’s antlers, trimmed with quail feathers, +and see how much food we have had: first the rabbits, then the +grasshoppers, and now the fish and elk.” + +“While you work tell us how the first baby basket was made,” begged +Cleeta. The mother nodded; and as she wound and pressed closely the +moist chippa, and the cactus needle flew in and out with the creamy +kah-hoom or the black tsuwish, she told the story. + +“When the mother of all made the basket for the first man child, she +used a rainbow for the wood of the back of the basket, with stars woven +in each side, and straight lightning down the middle in front. Sunbeams +shining on a far-away rain storm formed the fringe in front, where we +use strips of buckskin, and the carry straps were brightest sunbeams.” + +“Mother, you left out that the baby was wrapped in a soft purple cloud +from the mountains,” said Cleeta. + +“Yes, in a purple cloud of evening, wrapped so he could not move leg or +arm, but would grow straight and beautiful,” said the mother. + +For a long while the children watched in silence the patient fingers at +their work; then Gesnip asked, “Is it true, mother, that when you were +a little child your father and mother and many of your tribe died of +hunger?” + +“It is true,” replied Macana, sadly, “but who told you?” + +“Old Cotopacnic, but I thought it was one of his dreams. Why were you +all so hungry?” asked the girl. + +“Because the rain failed for three seasons. After a time there was +no grass, no acorns, the rabbits and deer died or wandered away, the +streams dried up so there were no fish, the ground became so dry that +there were no more grubs or worms of any kind, no grasshoppers. There +was nothing to eat but roots. Nearly all our tribe died, and many other +people, too.” + +“How did you live?” asked Payuchi. + +“My aunt had married a chief whose home was in a rich valley in the +mountains where it is always green. She came down to see my mother, and +when she found how hard it was to get food for us all, she took me by +the hand and tumbled Sholoc who was smaller than little Nakin, into her +great seed basket and took us off to the mountains until times should +grow better; but the rains did not come until it was too late. I stayed +with her until I married your father. Sholoc became a great hunter, then +chief of the people of Santa Catalina, where he became a great fisherman +also.” + +The children looked grave. + +“Do you think such bad seasons can ever come again?” asked Gesnip. + +“Who can tell?” replied the mother, with a sigh. “Last year was very +bad and there is little rain yet this year. That is why the men offered +gifts to Chinigchinich last night.” + +“Nobody must take me away from you to keep me from being hungry,” said +gentle Cleeta, hiding her face in her mother’s lap. + +“If I were Chinigchinich,” said Payuchi, “I would not let so many people +die, just because they needed a little more rain. I would not be that +kind of a god.” + +“Hush, my child,” said the mother, sternly. “He will hear and punish +you. If it is our fate, we must bend to it.” + + + +Chapter III + +“The Secret of the Strait” + + + +Cabrillo + +One afternoon in September, in the year 1542, two broad, clumsy ships, +each with the flag of Spain flying above her many sails, were beating +their way up the coast of southern California. All day the vessels had +been wallowing in the choppy seas, driven about by contrary winds. At +last the prow of the leading ship was turned toward shore, where there +seemed to be an opening that might lead to a good harbor. At the bow +of the ship stood the master of the expedition, the tanned, keen-faced +captain, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo. He was earnestly watching the land +before him, which was still some distance away. + +“Come hither, Juan,” he called to a sturdy lad, about sixteen, who, +with an Indian boy, brought from Mexico as interpreter, was also eagerly +looking landward. “Your eyes should be better than mine. Think you there +is a harbor beyond that point?” + +“It surely seems so to me, sir,” answered the boy; “and Pepe, whose +eyes, you know, are keener than ours, says that he can plainly see the +entrance.” + +“I trust he is right; for this thickening weather promises a storm, and +a safe harbor would be a gift of God to us weary ones this night,” said +the captain, with a sigh. + +Since the fair June day when they had sailed out of the harbor on the +west shore of Mexico, they had been following first up the coast line of +the Peninsula, then of Upper California. No maps or charts of the region +showing where lay good harbors or dangerous rocks, could be found in +Cabrillo’s cabin. Instead, there were maps of this South Sea which +pictured terrible dangers for mariners--great whirlpools which could +suck down whole fleets of vessels, and immense waterfalls, where it was +thought the whole ocean poured off the end of the land into space. A +brave man was Captain Cabrillo, for, half believing these stories, he +yet sailed steadily on, determined, no matter what happened to himself, +to do his duty to the king under whose flag he sailed, and to the +viceroy of Mexico, whose funds had furnished the expedition. + +California has ever been noted for its brave men, but none have been +more courageous than this explorer, who was probably the first white +man to set his foot upon its soil. As the ship approached land the crew +became silent, every eye being turned anxiously to the opening of the +passage which appeared before them. The vessel, driven by the stiff +breeze, rushed on, almost touching the rock at one point. Then, caught +by a favorable current, it swept into mid-channel, where it moved +rapidly forward, until at length it rode safely in the harbor now known +as San Diego Bay. + +“It is a good port and well inclosed,” said Juan Cabrillo, with great +satisfaction, gazing out upon the broad sheet of quiet water. “We +will name it for our good San Miguel, to whom our prayers for a safe +anchorage were offered this morning.” Then, when the two ships were +riding at anchor, the commander ordered out the boats. + +“We will see what kind of people these are, dodging behind the bushes +yonder,” said he. As the Spaniards drew near shore they could see many +fleeing figures. + +“What a pity they are so afraid,” said Cabrillo. “If we are to learn +anything of the country, we must teach them that we mean them no harm.” + +“Master,” said Pepe, “there are three of them hiding behind those +bushes.” + +“Is it so, lad? Then go you up to them. They will not fear you.” So the +Indian boy walked slowly forward, holding out his hands with his palms +upward, which not only let the natives see that he was unarmed, but in +the sign language meant peace and friendship. As he drew near to them an +old man and two younger ones, dressed in scanty shirts of rabbit-skins, +came from their hiding places and began to talk to Pepe, but, though +they also were Indians, they did not speak his language. Some of their +words were evidently similar to his, and by these and the help of signs +he partly understood what they said. Presently he returned to the group +on shore. + +“They say there are Spaniards back in the country a few days’ journey +from here.” + +“Spaniards? That is impossible,” returned Cabrillo. + +“They say that they are bearded, wear clothes like yours, and have white +faces,” answered the boy, simply. + +“They must be mistaken, or perhaps you did not understand them fully,” + said the master. “At another time we will question them further. Now, +give them this present of beads and hurry back, for it is late.” + +That night some of the men from the ships went on shore to fish. While +they were drawing their nets, the Indians stole up softly and discharged +their arrows, wounding three. The boy Juan had the most serious injury, +an arrow being so deeply embedded in his shoulder that it could not be +removed until they reached the ship. There the padre, who, like most +priests of that day, knew something of surgery, drew it out, and bound +up the shoulder in soothing balsams. + +On the second day of their stay in port the wind began to blow from the +southwest; the waves grew rough, and Cabrillo ordered the ships to be +made ready for the tempest, which soon became violent. Meantime, Juan +lay suffering in his hammock, which swung backward and forward with the +motion of the ship. Suddenly he heard a step beside him and felt a cool +hand on his forehead. + +“How goes it, lad?” said Cabrillo, for it was the master himself. “You +are suffering in a good cause. Have courage; you will soon be well. +Remember, you have helped to discover a harbor, the like of which is +seldom found. This storm is a severe one. I can hear the surf booming +on the farther shore, yet our ship shows no strain on the anchor. Good +harbor though it is, I am sorely disappointed, as I had hoped it was the +entrance to the strait, the strait that seems a phantom flying before +us as we go, drawing us onward to we know not what.” The sadness of the +captain’s voice troubled Juan. + +“Master,” he asked earnestly, “what is the strait? I hear of it often, +yet no one can tell me what it is, or where it lies.” + +“Because no one knows,” answered the captain, rising. “I am needed on +deck, but I will send old Tomas to tell you its strange story.” + +“The secret of the strait,” said old Tomas, as he seated himself beside +Juan, “has led many men to gallant deeds and also many a man to a +gallant death. Always, since as a lad I first went to sea, the merchants +of many lands have been seeking a safe and speedy way of reaching the +Indies, where are found such foods, spices, and jewels as one sees +nowhere else in the world. + +“My father and grandfather used to travel with caravans overland to and +from India. There are several routes, each controlled by some one of the +great Italian cities, but all have somewhere to cross the desert, where +the trains are often robbed by wild tribes. Sometimes, as they come +nearer home, they are held by the Turks for heavy tribute, with such +loss that the merchants have been forced to turn to the sea in hopes +that a better way might be found. It was while searching for this route +that Columbus discovered the new world, and when the news of his success +was brought back to Europe there was great rejoicing, because it was +thought that he had reached some part of India. Magellan’s voyage, +however, destroyed these hopes. He sailed for months down the eastern +shore of the new land, and discovered, far away to the south, a strait +through which he reached the great South Sea, but then he still sailed +on for nearly a year before he came to the Spice Islands and Asia. + +“Now every one believes that somewhere through this land to the north +of us there is a wide, deep sea passage from the North Sea [Atlantic] to +the South Sea [Pacific], by which ships may speedily reach India. This +passage is called the Strait of Anian. + +“The great captain, Hernando Cortez, the conqueror of New Spain [Mexico] +spent many years and a large fortune seeking for this water way. Four +different expeditions he sent out to explore this coast: most of them +at his own cost. In the second one his pilot, Jiminez, led a mutiny, +murdered his captain, and afterward discovered, accidentally, the +southern point of this land we are now exploring. But it was not the +good fortune of the noble Cortez to discover the strait. Our captain is +the next to take up the search, and may God send him success.” + +After a stay of nearly a week in the bay of San Diego, Cabrillo +continued his voyage up the coast, sailing by day, anchoring at night. +He touched at an island which he named San Salvador, but which we know +as Santa Catalina. Here, by his kind and generous treatment, he won +the friendship of the natives. From this beautiful spot, he sailed, one +Sunday morning, to the mainland. Entering the Bay of San Pedro, he found +it enveloped in smoke. + +“It seems a fair port,” said the commander, “but go no farther inland. +Drop anchor while we can see our way. We may well call this the Bay of +Smokes.” The fires, they found, had been started by the Indians to drive +the rabbits from shelter, so they could be the more easily killed. + +Sailing on, the ships anchored off a thickly settled valley, where the +town of Ventura now lies. Here, on October 12, 1542, Cabrillo and his +company went on shore and took solemn possession of the land in the +name of the king of Spain and the viceroy of Mexico. Here, and along +the channel, the people were better-looking, more comfortably lodged and +clothed, than those farther south. They also had good canoes, which the +natives of the lower coast did not possess. Pushing on, the explorer saw +and noted the channel islands and rounded Point Conception. From here he +was driven back by contrary winds, and toward nightfall of a stormy day +found himself near the little island now named San Miguel. + +“We will call it La Posesion and take it for our own,” said Cabrillo, +“for, if we can but make it, there seems to be a good harbor here.” The +storm, however, grew more severe. The sea rose until occasionally +the waves swept over the smaller ship, which was without a deck. Here +occurred a most unhappy accident. Something about the ship, a spar +probably, loosened by the storm, fell and struck the brave commander, +breaking his arm. Although severely injured, he would not have the +wounds dressed until, after a long period of anxiety, the two ships +entered in safety the little harbor of San Miguel. + +Here, stormbound, they remained for a week. When they ventured forth, +they again met with high winds and bad weather. Cabrillo, who in spite +of discouragements never forgot his search for the strait, pushed close +inshore and kept much of the time on deck looking for some signs of a +river or passage. One morning at daybreak, after a rough night, they +found themselves drifting in an open bay. + +“It is a fine roadstead,” said Cabrillo, coming on deck, as the sun rose +over the pine-covered hills. “Were it smaller, it would be a welcome +harbor. We will name it from those majestic trees La Bahia de Pinos, and +yonder long projection we will call the Cabo de Pinos.” That bay is +now called Monterey, but the cape still bears the name given it by this +first explorer. + +Anchoring in forty-five fathoms of water, they tried to go on shore, in +order to take possession of the land, but the sea was so rough that they +could not launch their boats. The next day they discovered and named +some mountains which they called Sierra Nevada, and, sailing on, went +as far north as about 40¼. But this winter voyage was made at a great +sacrifice. The exposure and hardships, following the wound he had +received, were too much for even the hardy sailor Juan Rodriguez +Cabrillo. After weeks of struggle with storms, the ships were forced +back to their old shelter at San Miguel. Here Christmas week was spent, +but a sad holiday it was to the explorers, for their brave leader lay +dying. Nobly had he done his duty up to the last. + +“Juan,” he said, to his young attendant, on Christmas Eve, “how gladly +the bells will be ringing in Lisbon to-night. I seem to hear them now. +They drive out all other sounds. Call Ferrelo and let no one else come +but the padre.” Very soon Juan returned with Cabrillo’s first assistant, +the pilot, Ferrelo, a brave navigator and a just man. + +“Ferrelo,” said Cabrillo, faintly, “Death calls me, and the duty I lay +down you must take up. I command you to push the expedition northward +at all hazards, and to keep such records as are necessary in order that +fitting account of our voyage shall be given to the world. Will you +promise me to do this?” + +“I will, my master,” said Ferrelo, simply. “To the best of my ability +will I take up your work.” + +“Always looking for the strait, Ferrelo?” + +“Always, senor.” + +On the 3d of January, 1543, the brave man died and was buried in the +sands of Cuyler Harbor on San Miguel Island. His men called the island +Juan Rodriguez. This name was afterwards dropped, but California should +see to it that the island is rechristened in honor of the great sailor +who sleeps there. + +Ferrelo later succeeded in sailing as far north as Cape Mendocino and +perhaps as far as 42¡, but, though he kept as close to the shore as +possible, he failed to discover the great bay whose waters, spreading +like a sheet of silver over sixty miles of country, lay hidden just +behind the Golden Gate. Near the Oregon line he was driven back by +storms, and returned to Mexico, where he published a full account of the +voyage. + + + +Drake + +In the town of Offenburg, Germany, there is a statue of a man standing +on the deck of a ship, leaning against an anchor, his right hand +grasping a map of America, his left, a cluster of bulbous roots. On +the pedestal is the inscription, “Sir Francis Drake, the introducer of +potatoes into Europe in the year of our Lord 1586.” + +While it is doubtful whether this honor really belongs to Drake, an +Englishman, seeing the statue, would be inclined to say, “Is this all +that Germany has to tell of the great captain who led our navy against +the Spanish Armada; the first Englishman to sail around the world; +the most daring explorer, clever naval commander, expert seaman, brave +soldier, loyal friend, and gallant enemy of his time?” A Spaniard, on +the contrary, might well exclaim, “Why did Germany erect a statue to +this terrible man whom our poets call Dragontea [Dragon], this greatest +of all pirates, this terror of the sea?” All this, and more, might be +said of one man, who began life as a ship’s boy. + +At the time Drake first went to sea, England and Spain were by no means +friendly. Henry the Eighth of England had ill-treated his wife, who was +a Spanish princess. In addition he had drawn the English people away +from the Church of Rome. These things were most displeasing to Spain, +but there was still another reason for disagreement. The interests +of the two countries were opposed commercially, and this was the most +important cause of contention. + +Spain claimed by right of discovery, and gift of the Pope of Rome, all +the land in the new world except Brazil (which belonged to Portugal), +and held that no explorers or tradesmen, other than her own, had any +rights on her waters or in her ports. English seamen denied much of this +claim, and so frequent were the disputes arising upon the subject that +the English sailors adopted as a maxim, “No peace beyond the line,” + meaning the line which was, by the Pope’s decree, the eastern boundary +of the Spanish claim. + +The favorite prey of the British mariners was the treasure ships +carrying to Spain the precious cargoes of gold and silver from the rich +mines of the new world. With the far richer ships of the Philippine and +Indian trade, sailing on unknown waters, they had not, up to Drake’s +time, been able to interfere. + +Drake, when a very young man, had joined a trading expedition to Mexico. +While there the English were attacked by the Spanish in what the former +considered a most treacherous manner. Drake’s brother and many of +his comrades were killed, and their goods taken. After the battle he +solemnly vowed to be revenged, and so thoroughly did he carry out his +resolution that he was for years the terror of the Spanish seamen, +and, by many of the superstitious common sailors, believed to be Satan +himself come to earth in human form. + +Shortly after this unfortunate expedition Drake engaged in a marauding +voyage to Panama, where he captured rich stores of gold and silver and +precious stones. He gained such renown for his bravery and seamanship +that upon coming home he found himself famous. + +Queen Elizabeth knew that Spain was opposed to her and her religion, and +was not in her heart displeased when her brave seamen got the better of +their Spanish rivals. She received Drake privately, and help was offered +him secretly from people who stood high in the government. With this +encouragement he resolved to embark on a most hazardous and daring +adventure. While in Panama he had seen, from a “high and goodlie tree” + on a mountain side, the great Pacific, and was immediately filled with +a desire to sail on its waters and explore its shores. He therefore +determined to cross the Atlantic, pass through the Strait of Magellan, +up the Pacific, and to plunder the Spanish towns along the coast of +South and Central America, until he should reach the region traversed by +the richly laden Spanish ships coming from India and the Philippines. It +is said that the queen herself put a thousand crowns into this venture. +One thing is certain, that he received sufficient help to fit out five +small vessels, with one hundred and sixty-four men. With these he sailed +from Falmouth, England, in December of 1577. With the exception of +perhaps one or two of the rich men who had helped him, no one, not even +his men, knew of his plans. + +After a long and interesting voyage in which one vessel was lost and the +others, though he did not know it, had deserted him, he found himself +with but one ship beating his way up the coast of Lower California. This +was his flagship Pelican, which he had rechristened the Golden Hind. +It was then so laden with rich booty, that it was like a hawk which +had stolen too heavy a chicken, driven this way and that by the winds, +scarcely able to reach its nest. + +In addition to a good store of Chile wines and foods of various kinds, +there were packed away in the hold of the Golden Hind, twenty-five +thousand pesos of gold, eight thousand pounds of English money, and a +great cross of gold with “emeralds near as large as a man’s finger.” + From one vessel Drake had taken one hundred-weight of silver; from a +messenger of the mines, who was sleeping beside a spring on the Peruvian +coast, thirteen bars of solid silver; off the backs of a train of little +gray llamas, the camels of the Andes, eight hundred pounds of silver; +and besides all these were large quantities of gold and silver that +were not recorded in the ship’s list, and stores of pearls, diamonds, +emeralds, silks, and porcelain. + +The last prize taken was the Spanish treasure ship Cacafuegos. Drake had +transferred its cargo and crew to his own vessel and, for a time, manned +it with some of his men. Its noble commander, St. John de Anton, who +had been wounded in the attack, received every possible attention on +the English vessel, and in the report which he afterwards made to +the viceroy of Mexico, he told of the perfect order and discipline +maintained on the Golden Hind, and of the luxury which surrounded its +commander, who was treated with great reverence by his men. + +Before sailing on to the northward, Drake restored St. John and his crew +to their vessel. Then, because he feared that they might fall into the +hands of his fleet (having no suspicion that the other captains had +returned home), he gave the Spaniards the following letter, which shows +the great Englishman to have been more honorable than he is oftentimes +represented:-- + +“To Master Weinter and the Masters of the Other Ships of my Fleet: + +“If it pleaseth God that you should chance to meet with this ship of +St. John de Anton, I pray you use him well according to my promise given +him. If you want to use anything that is in the ship, I pray you pay him +double value for it, which I will satisfy again. And command your men +not to do any harm and what agreement we have made, at my return unto +England, I will, by God’s help, perform, although I am in doubt that +this letter will ever come to your hand, notwithstanding I am the man I +have promised to be. + +“Beseeching God, the Saviour of the world, to have us all in his +keeping, to whom I give all honor, praise, and glory, + +“Your sorrowful captain, whose heart is heavy for you, + +“Francis Drake.” + + +How to get home was the problem which this daring man had now to solve. +There was no possibility of returning by the way he had come. He well +knew that the news of his departure had reached Spain, and that her war +ships would be waiting for him, not only at the eastern entrance of the +Strait of Magellan, but at the Isthmus and in the Caribbean Sea. + +If by sailing northward he could find the Strait of Anian, then his +homeward journey would be safe and short; but if he could not find that +illusive body of water, then there was left to him but the Pacific for +a highway. However, this did not daunt him, as he felt that what the +Portuguese Magellan had done, Drake the Englishman could do. + +Keeping well out from shore, the Golden Hind now sailed northward for +nearly two months. Drake passed just west of the Farallon Islands, never +dreaming of the great harbor which lay so short a distance on the other +side. He traveled as far north as latitude 42¡ or possibly 43¡, and +perhaps he even landed at one point, but he failed to find the strait. +According to Fletcher, the priest of the Church of England who kept a +journal of the expedition, they were finally forced by the extreme cold +to turn southward. “Here,” says Fletcher, “it pleased God on this +17th day of June, 1579, to send us, in latitude 38¡, a convenient fit +harbor.” This is now supposed to be Drakes Bay, which lies thirty miles +northwest of San Francisco, in Marin county. + +“In this bay we anchored, and the people of the country having their +houses close to the waterside showed themselves unto us and sent +presents to our general. He, in return, courteously treated them and +liberally bestowed upon them things necessary to cover their nakedness. + +“Their houses are digged around about with earth and have for the brim +of that circle, clefts of wood set upon the ground and joined closely +together at the top like the spire of a steeple, which by reason of this +closeness are very warm. The men go naked, but the women make themselves +loose garments knit about the middle, while over their shoulders they +wear the skin of a deer.” + +These people brought presents and seemed to want to offer sacrifices to +the strangers as gods, but Drake, hastily calling his men together, +held divine services, “To which, especially the prayers and music,” says +Fletcher, “they were most attentive and seemed to be greatly affected.” + The Bible used by Drake in this service is still to be seen in Nut Hall +House, Devonshire, England. + +Presently a messenger came, saying that the king wished to visit them +if they would assure him of their peaceful intentions. Drake sent him +presents, then marched his force into a kind of fort he had had made in +which to place such parts of the cargo as it was necessary to remove in +order to careen the ship for repairing. The coming of the chief is thus +described:-- + +“He came in princely majesty. In the fore-front was a man of goodly +personage who bore the scepter whereon was hung two crowns with chains +of marvelous length. The crowns were made of knit-work wrought with +feathers of divers colors, the chains being made of bony substances. + +“Next came the king with his guard, all well clothed in connie skins, +then the naked common people with faces painted, each bearing some +presents. After ceremonies consisting of speeches and dances, they +offered one of the crowns to Drake, who, accepting in the name of +Elizabeth, allowed it to be placed on his head.” + +While the men were busy cleaning and repairing the ship, the commander +and his officers made excursions into the interior, visiting many Indian +towns and passing through wide plains where vast herds of deer, often +one thousand or more, all large and fat, were feeding on the rich +grasses. They also saw great numbers of what they called connies, which, +from their description, must have been ground squirrels, or else some +variety of animal now extinct. The country Drake named New Albion, +partly from its white cliffs, which resembled those of his native land, +and partly in belief that it would be easier to lay claim to the country +if it bore one of the names applied to England. + +“When the time came for our departure,” continued Fletcher in his +journal, “our general set up a monument of our being here, so also, of +her majesty’s right and title to the land: namely a plate nailed upon +a fair great post, whereon was engraved her majesty’s name, the day and +year of our arrival, with the giving up of the province and people into +her majesty’s hands, together with her highness’ picture and arms in a +sixpence under the plate, whereunder was also written the name of our +general.” + +Fletcher seemed not to know of Cabrillo’s voyage, for he claimed that no +one had ever discovered land in this region, or for many degrees to the +south; while in fact Ferrelo with Cabrillo’s ships had sailed as far +north as latitude 42¡, although we have no reason to think that he +landed in a higher latitude than that of Point Conception and San Miguel +Island. + +Once again solemn religious services were held by the Englishmen on the +hospitable soil that had been their home for over a month. Then they +went on board the ship, accompanied to the shore by the grieving +Indians, who would not be comforted when they saw their new friends +forsaking them. It was near the last of July in 1579 that Captain Drake +with his brave men began his wonderful homeward voyage. + +It was a triumphant return they made in September, a year later. Crowds +flocked to see the famous ship and its gallant commander. + +Some of the queen’s statesmen strongly disapproved of Drake’s attack +upon Spanish towns and vessels, and felt he should be arrested and tried +for piracy; but the common people cheered him wherever he went, and as a +crowning honor, in the luxurious cabin of his good ship Golden Hind, he +was visited by the great Elizabeth herself. When the banquet was over, +at the queen’s command, he bent his knee before her, and this sovereign, +who, though a woman, dearly loved such courage and daring as he had +displayed, tapped him on the shoulder and bade him arise “Sir Francis +Drake.” + + +Galli and Carmenon + +In 1584 Francisco Galli, commanding a Philippine ship, returning to +Mexico by way of Japan, sighted the coast of California in latitude 37¡ +30’. He saw, as he reported, “a high and fair land with no snow and many +trees, and in the sea, drifts of roots, reeds, and leaves.” Some of the +latter he gathered and cooked with meat for his men, who were no doubt +suffering from scurvy. + +Galli wrote of the point where he first saw the coast as Cape Mendocino, +which would seem to imply that the point had been discovered and named +at some previous time, of which, however, there is no record. + +In 1595 Sebastian Carmenon, commanding the ship San Agustin, coming from +the Philippines, was given royal orders to make some explorations on +the coast of California, probably to find a suitable harbor for Manila +vessels. In doing so he was so unfortunate as to run his vessel ashore +behind Point Reyes, and to lighten her was obliged to leave behind a +portion of his cargo, consisting of wax and silks in boxes. There +is only the briefest record of this voyage, and no report of any +discoveries. + + +Vizcaino + +Almost sixty years after the voyage of Cabrillo, came a royal order from +the king of Spain to the viceroy of Mexico which, translated from the +Spanish, ran something like this:-- + +“Go, search the northern coast of the Californias, until you find a good +and sufficient harbor wherein my Manila galleons may anchor safe and +protected, and where may be founded a town that my scurvy-stricken +sailors may find the fresh food necessary for their relief. Furthermore, +spare no expense.” + +The destruction of Spanish shipping by Drake and other English seamen +who followed his example, had caused great anxiety to the Spaniards and +was partly the reason for this order. + +“Send for Don Sebastian,” said the viceroy. “He is a brave gentleman and +good sailor. He shall carry out the order of the king.” But it took time +to fit out such an expedition, and it was not until an afternoon in +May, 1602, that Don Sebastian Vizcaino, on his flagship, the San Diego, +sailed out of the harbor of Acapulco into the broad Pacific. Closely +following him were his other ships, the San Thomas and Tres Reyes. + +There had been solemn services at the cathedral that afternoon. Officers +and men had taken of the holy communion; and now their wives and +children stood on the island at the entrance of the harbor, watching the +white sails as they grew fainter and fainter and at last disappeared in +the haze of the coming night. + +Then the watchers returned to their lonely homes with heavy hearts, +for in those days few came back who sailed out on the great South Sea. +Storms, battles with the natives, and scurvy made sad havoc among the +sailors. + +Early in November Vizcaino entered “a famous port,” which he named San +Diego, finding it, as Padre Ascension’s journal says, “beautiful and +very grand, and all parts of it very convenient shelter from the winds.” + After leaving San Diego, the next anchoring place was the island named +by Vizcaino for Santa Catalina, on whose feast day his ships entered the +pretty little harbor of Avalon. + +The Spaniards were greatly pleased with the island and also with the +people, whom they described as being a large-figured, light-complexioned +race; all, men, women, and children, being well clothed in sealskins. +They had large dwellings, many towns, and fine canoes. What struck Padre +Ascension most strongly was their temple, of which he says: “There was +in the temple a large level court, and about this a circle surrounded +by feather work of different colors taken from various birds which I +understand had been sacrificed to their idols. Within this circle was +the figure of a demon painted in color after the manner of the Indians +of New Spain. On its sides were figures of the sun and moon. + +“It so fell out that when our soldiers came up from the ships to view +the temple, there were in the circle two immense ravens, far larger than +ordinary. When the men arrived, they flew away to some rocks that were +near by, and the soldiers seeing how large they were, raised their +arquebuses and killed them both. Then did the Indians begin to weep and +make great lamentation. I understand that the devil was accustomed +to speak to them, through these birds, for which they showed great +respect.” + +There were in the island quantities of edible roots of a variety of the +yucca called gicamas, and many little bulbs which the Spanish called +“papas pequenos” (little potatoes). These, the padre said, the Indians +took in their canoes over to the mainland, thus making their living by +barter. This certainly must have been the beginning of commerce on the +coast. + +Vizcaino entered and named the Bay of San Pedro. To the channel islands +he also gave the names which they now bear. Sailing on, he discovered +a river which he named “Carmelo,” in honor of the Carmelite friars who +accompanied him. The same day the fleet rounded the long cape called +“Point Pinos” and came to anchor in the bay formed by its projection. +From here the San Tomas was sent to Mexico to carry the sick, of whom +there were many, and to bring back fresh supplies. The men who remained +were at once set to work. Some supplied the two ships with wood and +water; others built a chapel of brush near the beach, under a large oak +at the roots of which flowed a spring of delicious water. In this chapel +mass was said and the Te Deum chanted. For over one hundred and fifty +years this oak was known, both in New Spain and at the court of the +king, as the “Oak of Vizcaino, in the Bay of Monterey.” From here +Vizcaino wrote to the king of Spain as follows:-- + +“Among the ports of greater consideration which I have discovered is +one in 30¡ north latitude which I called Monterey, as I wrote to your +majesty in December. It is all that can be desired for commodiousness +and as a station for ships making the voyage from the Philippines, +sailing whence they make a landfall on this coast. It is sheltered from +all winds and in the immediate vicinity are pines from which masts of +any desired size could be obtained, as well as live oak, white oak, and +other woods. There is a variety of game, great and small. The land has +a genial climate and the waters are good. It is thickly settled by a +people whom I find to be of gentle disposition, and whom I believe can +be brought within the fold of the Holy Gospel and subjugation to your +majesty.” + +This enthusiastic praise of the harbor of Monterey by a man who was +familiar with the port of San Diego, caused much trouble later, as will +be seen in the study of the founding of the missions. + +Not waiting for the return of the San Tomas, Vizcaino with his two ships +soon sailed northward, and reached a point in about latitude 42¡, which +was probably the northern limit reached by Cabrillo’s ships and only a +little lower than the farthest explorations of Drake. Although Vizcaino +was looking for harbors, he yet passed twice outside the Bay of San +Francisco, the finest on the coast, without discovering it. After his +return to Mexico, Vizcaino endeavored to raise an expedition to found +a settlement at Monterey, even going to Spain to press the matter; but +other schemes were demanding the king’s attention, and he would +give neither thought nor money to affairs in the new world; and so, +thoroughly disheartened Vizcaino returned to Mexico. + +From this time for over one hundred and fifty years there is no record +of explorations along this coast, either by vessels from Mexico or by +those coming from the Philippines. California seemed again forgotten. + +This is the story of the few voyages made to the coast of California +previous to its settlement. The first, under Cabrillo, was sent out by +the viceroy Mendoza, who hoped to gain fame and riches by the discovery +of the Strait of Anian, and by finding wealthy countries and cities +which were supposed to exist in the great northwest, about which much +was imagined but nothing known. + +Drake planned his voyage largely in pursuit of his revenge upon Spain, +partly for the plunder which he hoped to obtain from the Spanish towns +and vessels along the Pacific coast of America, and partly because of +his desire to explore the Pacific Ocean. + +Vizcaino also was expected to search for the strait, but he was +especially sent out to find a good harbor and place for settlement +on the California coast. This was intended in a great measure for the +benefit of the Philippine trade, but also to aid in holding the country +for Spain. + + + +Chapter IV + +The Cross of Santa Fe + + + +The kings highway which led up from Vera Cruz, the chief port of the +eastern coast of Mexico, to the capital city of New Spain had in the +eighteenth century more history connected with it than any other road in +the new world. Over it had passed Montezuma with all the splendor of +his pagan court. On it, too, had marched and counter marched his grim +conqueror, the great Cortez. Through its white dust had traveled an +almost endless procession of mules and slaves, carrying the treasures of +the mines of Mexico and the rich imports of Manila and India on toward +Spain. + +Over this road there was journeying, one winter day in the year 1749, +a traveler of more importance to the history of the state of California +than any one who had gone before. He was no great soldier or king, only +a priest in the brownish gray cloak of the order of St. Francis. He was +slight in figure, and limped painfully from a sore on his leg, caused, +it is supposed, by the bite of some poisonous reptile. The chance +companions who traveled with him begged him to stop and rest beside a +stream, but he would not. Then, as he grew more weary, they entreated +him to seek shelter in a ranch house near by and give up his journey. + +“Speak not to me thus. I am determined to continue. I seem to hear +voices of unconverted thousands calling me,” was all the answer he +gave. So on foot, with no luggage but his prayer book, he limped out of +sight--the humble Spanish priest, Junipero Serra. + +While only a schoolboy, young Serra had been more interested in the +Indian inhabitants of the new world than in boyish pleasure. As he grew +older it became his greatest desire to go to them as a missionary. At +eighteen he became a priest; but it was not until his thirty-sixth year +that he gained the opportunity of which he had so long dreamed, when, +in company with a body of missionaries, among whom were his boyhood +friends, Francisco Palou and Juan Crespi, he landed at Vera Cruz. + +He was too impatient to begin his new work, to wait for the government +escort which was coming to meet them. So he started out on foot, with +only such companions as he might pick up by the way, to make the long +journey to the city of Mexico. + +Sixteen years later, attended by a gay company of gentlemen and ladies, +there traveled over this road one of Spain’s wisest statesmen, Jose +de Galvez, whom the king had sent out to look after affairs in the new +world. Flourishing settlements were by this time scattered over a large +portion of Mexico, and even in the peninsula of Lower California there +were a number of missions. It was almost a hundred years before this +time that two Catholic priests of the Society of Jesus had asked +permission to found mission settlements among the Indians of this +peninsula. + +“You may found the missions if you like, but do not look to us for money +to help you,” was the answer returned by the officers of the government. +So the two Jesuit priests set about collecting funds for the work. + +They were eloquent men, and the people who heard them preach became so +interested in the Indians that they were glad to give. And so, little by +little, this fund grew. As the good work went on, greater gifts poured +in. Whole fortunes were left them, and finally they had a very large +sum carefully invested in the city of Mexico. This was known as the Pius +Fund. From it was taken all the money needed for the founding of the +missions of Lower California; and, many years later, the expenses of +founding the twenty-one missions of Upper California came from the same +source. This fund became the subject of a long dispute between Mexico +and the United States, of which an account is given in Chapter XI. + +In 1767 all the Jesuit priests in New Spain were called back to Europe, +and a large portion of their wealth and missions on the peninsula were +given over to the order of St. Francis, with Junipero Serra at their +head. It was Galvez’s duty to superintend this change, and while he +was on his way to the peninsula for that purpose he was overtaken by +an order from the king of Spain to occupy and fortify the ports of San +Diego and Monterey. The Spanish government had the description of these +ports furnished by Vizcaino in his account of his explorations in Upper +and Lower California over one hundred and sixty years before. + +The articles of the king’s order were: first, to establish the Catholic +faith; second, to extend Spanish dominion; third, to check the ambitious +schemes of a foreign power; and lastly, to carry out a plan formed by +Philip the Third, as long ago as 1603, for the establishment of a town +on the California coast where there was a harbor suitable for ships of +the Manila trade. + +Galvez at once proceeded to organize four expeditions for the settlement +of Upper California, two by land, two by sea. Captain Portola, governor +of the peninsula, was put in command, with good leaders under him. +Still, Galvez was not satisfied. + +“This is all very well,” he said; “these men will obey my orders, +but they do not care much whether this land is settled or not, and if +discouragements arise, back they will come, and I shall have the whole +thing to do over again. I must find some one who is interested in the +work, some one who will not find anything impossible. I think I shall +send for that lame, pale-faced priest, with the beautiful eyes, who has +taken up the work of these missions so eagerly.” + +“So you think we can make the venture a success?” asked Galvez, after he +had talked over his plans with Junipero. + +“Surely,” said Padre Serra, his eyes shining, his whole face glowing +with enthusiasm. “It is God’s work to carry the cross of the holy faith +[Santa Fe] into the wilderness, and He will go with us; can you not hear +the heathen calling us to bring them the blessed Gospel? I can see that +I have lived all my life for this glorious day.” + +Then they went to work, the priest and the king’s counselor--down on the +wharf, even working with their own hands, packing away the cargo. + +“Hurry! Hurry!” said Galvez. The word was passed along, and in a short +time the four expeditions were ready. + +Many were the trials and discouragements of the various parties. Scurvy +was so severe among the sailors that one ship lost all its crew save two +men, and there were a number of deaths on another ship; while a third +vessel which started later was never heard from. Padre Junipero, who +accompanied the second land party, under the charge of Governor Portola, +became so ill from the wound on his leg that the commander urged him +to return; but he would not. Calling a muleteer who was busy after the +day’s march, doctoring the sores on his animals, he said:-- + +“Come, my son, and cure my sores also.” + +“Padre,” exclaimed the man, shocked at the idea, “I am no surgeon; I +doctor only my beasts.” + +“Think then that I am a beast, my child,” said the padre, “and treat me +accordingly.” + +The man obeyed. Gathering some leaves of the malva, or cheese plant, he +bruised them a little, heated them on the stones of the camp fire, and +spreading them with warm tallow, applied them to the wound. The next +morning the leg was so much better that the cure was thought to be a +miracle. Still the padre was very weak; and there was great rejoicing in +the party when at last they looked down from a height on San Diego +Bay, with the two ships--the San Carlos and the San Antonio--riding at +anchor, white tents on the beach, and soldiers grouped about. Salutes +were fired by the newcomers and returned by the soldiers and ships, and +very soon the four expeditions were reunited. + +On the next day, Sunday, solemn thanksgiving services were held. Then +for fourteen days all were busy attending to the sick, making ready for +the departure of the ship San Antonio, which was to be sent back for +supplies, and packing up food and other necessities for the journey to +Monterey. The San Antonio sailed on the 9th of July, 1769, and five days +later Governor Portola and two thirds of the well portion of the company +started overland to Monterey. + +Meantime Padre Junipero had been impatiently awaiting an opportunity to +begin his great work--the conversion of the heathen. He had written +back in his own peculiar way to his friend Padre Palou, whom he left in +charge of the missions of Lower California. + +“Long Live Jesus, Joseph, and Mary, This to Fray Francisco Palou. + +“My dear friend and Sir:-- + +“I, thanks be to God, arrived day before yesterday at this, in truth, +beautiful, and with reason famous, port of San Diego. We find Gentiles +[the name given to the wild Indians] here in great numbers. They seem to +lead temperate lives on various seeds and on fish which they catch from +their rafts of tule which are formed like a canoe.” + +The second day after the departure of Portola and his party, Sunday, +July 16, Padre Serra felt that the glorious moment for which he had so +long prayed had at length arrived. The mission bells were unpacked and +hung on a tree, and a neophyte, or converted Indian, whom he had brought +with him from the peninsula, was appointed to ring them. As the sweet +tones sounded on the clear air, all the party who were able gathered +about the padre, who stood lifting the cross of Christ on high. All +joined in solemnly chanting a hymn, and a sermon was preached. Then with +more chanting, the tolling of, the bells, and the firing of muskets, was +concluded the ceremony of the founding of the first of the California +missions, that of San Diego. + +Portola and his men, in spite of many discouragements, traveled steadily +northward for nearly two months until at last, one October morning, they +saw what they thought to be Point Pinos, the name given by Cabrillo to +the pine-covered cape to the south of Monterey Bay. They were right in +thinking this Point Pinos, but the sad part is that when they climbed +a hill and looked down on the bay they had come so far to find, they +failed to recognize it. + +They tramped wearily over the sun-dried hills that bordered it, +and walked on its sandy beach, but could not believe the wide, open +roadstead, encircled by bare brown heights, could be the well-inclosed +port lying at the foot of hills richly green, so warmly described by +Vizcaino in his winter voyage. It was a great disappointment, for this +was the latitude in which they had expected to find Monterey. After +talking it over, they decided they must be still too far south, so they +tramped on for many days. + +On the last day of October, those of the party who were well enough, +climbed a high hill--(Point San Pedro on the west coast of the +peninsula)--and were rewarded by a glorious view. On their left the +great ocean stretched away to the horizon line, its waves breaking in +high-tossed foam on the rocky shore beneath them. Before them they saw +an open bay, or roadstead, lying between the point on which they stood, +and one extending into the sea far to the northwest. Upon looking at +their map of Vizcaino’s voyage, they rightly decided that this farther +projection was Point Reyes; the little bay sheltered by the curve of its +arm was the one named on the map St. Francis, and now known as Drakes +Bay. Well out to sea they discovered a group of rocky islands which they +called Farallones; but not a man who stood on the height dreamed that +only a short distance to the right up the rocky coast there lay a bay +so immense and so perfectly inclosed that it would ever be one of the +wonders of the land they were exploring. + +On account of the sick of the party, among whom were the commander and +his lieutenant, it was decided to travel no further, but to camp here +while Sergeant Ortega was dispatched to follow the coast line to Point +Reyes and explore the little bay it inclosed. + +With a few men and three days’ provisions consisting of small cakes made +of bran and water, which was the only food they had left, this brave +Spanish officer marched away, little imagining the honor which was +soon to be his. Leading this expedition, he was the first white man to +explore the peninsula where now stands the guardian city of the western +coast, and we must wonder what were his thoughts when, pushing his way +up some brush-covered heights, he came out suddenly upon the great bay +we call San Francisco. + +What a mighty surprise was that sixty miles of peaceful water that had +so long remained hidden from European explorers, baffling the anxious +gaze of Cabrillo, the faithful explorations of Ferrelo, the eagle eyes +of Drake, and the earnest search of Vizcaino! + +Pushing steadily on toward Point Reyes, Ortega encountered a second +surprise, when from the Presidio hills he looked down on beautiful +Golden Gate, whose rumpled waters seemed to say:-- + +“No farther can you come. We keep guard here.” + +Seeing that it was quite impossible for him to reach Point Reyes, Ortega +decided to return to Portola. He found the commander and his party so +weakened by sickness and the lack of food that it had been decided to +explore no farther, but to return at once to the southern mission. After +a painful march of sixty days the party reached San Diego. + +Bitter was the disappointment of Padre Junipero Serra at the failure to +found the mission of Monterey. He did not believe, as many of the party +reported, that the bay was filled up with sand. Keener still was his +grief when Portola, after looking over the supply of food, announced +that unless the ship San Antonio or the sloop San Jose arrived by +a certain date with provisions, they would have to abandon Upper +California and return to the peninsula. + +The padre at once called the people together for a nine days’ session of +prayer and other church services at which to pray for the coming of the +relief boat. Portola, though he attended the services, went steadily on +with his preparations for departure. On the morning of the day before +the one set for the beginning of the march toward Lower California, +the padres went to the heights overlooking the bay, where they remained +watching and praying. At sea a heavy fog hung over the water. Hour after +hour passed as they gazed out on the lovely bay. Noon came, but they +would not return to the mission to rest or eat. The afternoon wore away, +the sun sank in the clouds above the horizon, then, as all hope seemed +gone, the fog was lifted by a sunset breeze, and there, far out at sea, +they saw a white sail. The good men fell on their knees in thanksgiving, +while their Indian servants ran to carry the news to camp. + +This vessel, the San Antonio, brought not only abundant provisions but +fresh orders from Galvez to hurry the work at Monterey. The settlement +of Upper California was now made certain. + +An expedition by land and the San Antonio by sea immediately started +northward. A few weeks later Padre Junipero wrote to Padre Palou: “By +the favor of God, after a month and a half of painful navigation, +the San Antonio found anchor in this port of Monterey, which we find +unvarying in circumstances and substance as described by Don Sebastian +Vizcaino.” + +They even found Vizcaino’s oak. Indeed, it is said on good authority, +that the oak remained standing until 1838, when the high tides washed +the earth from its roots so that it fell. + +Soon the land expedition arrived, and one June morning in 1770 the +members of the two parties, all in their best attire, were gathered on +the beach for the purpose of founding the second mission. It must have +been a pretty scene,--the stanch little vessel San Antonio, gay with +bunting, swinging at anchor a short distance out, while on shore were +grouped the sailors in the bright dress of seamen of those times, the +soldiers in leather uniform, the governor and his staff in the handsome +costumes of Spanish officials, and the padres in their gray robes. Close +beside the oak a brush house had been built, bells hung, and an altar +erected. While the bells tolled, the solemn service of dedication was +held by Padre Junipero, and so was founded the Mission San Carlos de +Borromeo at Monterey. + +Near each of the earlier coast missions there was also founded a +military station called a presidio, a name borrowed from the Roman +presidium. The word meant a fort or fortified town. These presidios were +intended to guard the safety of the missions from the wild Indians, and +to defend the coast from ships of other countries. + +After the religious services Governor Portola proceeded to found the +presidio and take formal possession in the name of the king of Spain by +hoisting and saluting the royal banner, pulling up bunches of grass, and +casting stones, which was an ancient manner of taking possession of a +piece of land or country. The presidio of Monterey was for a long time +the site of the capital of Upper California and therefore most important +in the history of the state. + +For the sake of better land and water the mission site was soon removed +about six miles, to the Carmelo River. Although not so wealthy as some +of the missions, it was the home of Padre Junipero Serra, president of +all the missions, and so its history is especially interesting. + +The news of the settlement of San Diego and Monterey was received in +Mexico with great joy, and it was resolved to found five more missions +above San Diego. Four of these were San Gabriel, near the present site +of Los Angeles; San Luis Obispo, farther north; San Antonio; and San +Francisco. Before leaving the peninsula, Padre Serra had asked Galvez, +“And for Father Francisco, head of our order, is there to be no mission +for him?” To which Galvez had replied, “If Saint Francis wants a +mission, let him cause his port to be found and it will be placed +there.” When the beautiful bay was discovered by Sergeant Ortega, it +was thought that this might be the harbor Saint Francis intended for +himself, but before naming it for the head of the order it was necessary +that it should be explored. Although two land expeditions were sent up +for this purpose, they were unsuccessful; and it was not until August, +1775, about four months after the eventful battle of Lexington had taken +place on the Atlantic coast, that white men first entered the Bay of San +Francisco in a ship. + +Lieutenant Ayala of the Spanish navy, with the San Carlos, had the honor +of conducting this expedition. + +He reached the entrance to the bay just as night was coming on. Not +liking to trust his vessel in a strange harbor, he sent forward a boat +to make explorations, and then, as it was a little slow in returning, +he daringly pushed on in the darkness into the unknown water. His small +craft bobbed and plunged in the rough water of the bar, darted through +Golden Gate, and came safely to anchor near North Beach. Soon after +this exploration it was settled that here Saint Francis should have his +mission. + +Padre Junipero Serra appointed his friend Francisco Palou, who had now +joined him in his work in Upper California, to make this settlement, and +on the 9th of October, 1776, there was founded in that portion of San +Francisco known as the Mission District, at the corner of Sixteenth +and Dolores streets, the mission of San Francisco. This is often called +Mission Dolores from the name of a small lake and stream beside which +it was built. To-day the name San Francisco rests not only on the old +mission building, with its white pillars, but on the beautiful city +which is the metropolis of our western coast. + +As fast as possible Padre Junipero hastened the establishment of +missions, choosing those places where there were the largest native +settlements. In the vicinity of Monterey Bay there were, besides the San +Carlos mission, Santa Cruz on the northern curve of the bay, and in the +fertile valley back of the Santa Cruz Mountains the missions of Santa +Clara, San Jose, and San Juan Bautista. Farther south on a lonely height +stood Soledad, and much farther south, San Miguel. + +The Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel, of whom there were a great +many, were more intelligent and industrious than in other portions of +the country settled by the missionaries, and here were the missions of +Santa Barbara, San Buenaventura, La Purisima, and Santa Inez. + +In the south, in the fertile valley where are now the great grain fields +of Los Angeles county, San Fernando was founded. Between San Gabriel and +San Diego were placed San Juan Capistrano, San Luis Rey, and the chapel +of Pala. San Rafael and Solano, to the north of San Francisco Bay, +complete the list of twenty-one missions of Upper California. + +It is impossible to give more than the names of most of these missions, +although about each many true and beautiful stories might be told. It +would be well if those who live near one of these noble ruins would seek +out its particular history and the stories connected with it. This would +be interesting and helpful work for the students in the schools of the +state. + +The story of the missions seems like a fairy tale, wonderful and +unreal. Into a wilderness inhabited only by savage men and wild animals, +hundreds of miles from any civilized settlement, there came these men +trained as simple priests. + +Two by two they came, bringing with them, for the starting of each +mission, a few soldiers, seven to ten, a few converted Indians from +the missions of Lower California, a little live stock, some church +furniture, and always the bells; yet in a little over forty years they +had succeeded in founding a chain of missions whose sweet-toned bells +chimed the hours and called to prayer from San Diego to the Bay of San +Francisco. + +Churches were built larger and often of a purer type of architecture +than those in the civilized well-settled portions of the +land,--buildings that have lasted for a hundred years and may last many +years longer if care is taken to preserve them. Canals of stone and +cement and dams of masonry were constructed that would do credit to our +best workmen of to-day. + +The little packages of wheat and other grains, seeds from Spanish +oranges and olives, little dried bundles of grapevines from Mexico, +developed, under their care, into the great fields of grain, groves +of oranges and olives, and the wide-spreading vineyards of the mission +ranches. All these wonders were performed with Indian workmen trained by +the padres. + +But what the missionaries cared for more than their success in building +and planting were the thousands of baptized Indians at each mission. +These they instructed daily for the good of their souls in the truths of +the Christian religion, while for their bodily needs they were taught to +plow the earth, to plant seed, to raise and care for domestic animals. +They learned also many useful trades; and music, frescoing, and art were +taught those who seemed to have an especial taste for such things. + +At the head of this great work was gentle Padre Junipero Serra, the most +interesting character in the history of the missions. He was frail and +slender and much worn by constant labor of head and hands, but his every +thought and action seemed to be for others. Back and forth from Monterey +to San Diego, from mission to mission, he traveled almost constantly, +teaching, baptizing, confirming thousands of his dusky charges. He was +president of all the missions, and besides this was bishop, doctor, +judge, and architect, as well as steward of the mission products and +money. + +Associated with him in his work were a group of noble men whose lives +were spent in caring for the native people with whom they worked and +among whom they finally died. The inhabitants of California may well +honor the mission padres for their earnest, unselfish lives, and in no +way can this be done so fully as in the preservation of the grand old +buildings they left behind, which are indeed fitting monuments to their +devotion, energy, and skill. + +Beginning with San Diego, let us, in fancy, visit the missions in the +early part of the nineteenth century. + +It is a winter day in the year 1813 when we ride up the broad, +wind-swept road which leads to the newly dedicated mission building of +San Diego. The wide plain that surrounds it is green with native grass +and the blades of young wheat. Of the two hundred cattle, one hundred +sheep, one hundred horses, and twenty asses brought up by Padre Junipero +in 1769 to be divided among the earlier missions, San Diego had only its +due share; yet under the wise management of the padres, they have now at +this mission, feeding on the green plains, thousands of cattle, horses, +and sheep, which are tended by comfortably clothed Indian herders. Near +the mission are the green and gold of orange orchards, the gray of the +olive, and the bare branches of extensive vineyards. At one side we +see a large kitchen garden where young Indians are at work planting and +hoeing. + +As we draw up in front of the church, Indian servants come out to take +our horses. We dismount, and a padre who is superintending work in +the orchard comes and welcomes us with gentle courtesy. He sends us a +servant to show us to our room, a small square apartment with a hard +earthen floor and bare, whitewashed walls with no ornament but a cross. +The beds are of rawhide stretched over a frame. The covering consists +of sheets of coarse cotton grown and woven at the southern missions, +and blankets, coarse but warm, made by the Indians from the wool of the +mission sheep. + +Dinner at the padre’s table we find most enjoyable. There is beef +and chicken, the frijole, or red bean of Spain, and other vegetables +prepared in a tasty manner peculiar to Spanish cooking, so we do not +doubt that the cook has been taught his trade by the padre himself. The +Indian boys who wait on the table also show careful training, performing +their duties quickly and quietly. Here we can find for bread the +tortilla,--still the food of the Indian and Mexican people of +California. It is a thin cake made of meal or flour and water, and baked +without grease on a hot stone or griddle. Wines made at the mission, +the favorite chocolate, thick and sweet, and some fruit from the padre’s +garden complete the meal. + +Dinner over, we visit the church and admire the striking contrast +between the red tiles of the roof and the creamy white of the walls. +All the buildings are made of bricks molded from a clay called adobe +and dried slowly in the sun. Each brick is twelve inches square by four +inches thick, and the walls are laid two or three bricks deep, those of +the church itself being nearly four feet in thickness. It seems almost +impossible that so large and well made a building could have been +constructed by untrained workmen. Next to the church are the rooms of +the padres, then the dining room and the quarters of the mission +guard, which consists apparently of but two men, the rest being at the +presidio, several miles away. Adjoining these are the storehouses and +shops of the Indian workmen, all of which open on the great courtyard. + +In the courtyard is a busy scene. Blacksmiths with hammer and anvil make +sounding blows as they work up old iron into needed farm utensils. The +soap maker’s caldron sends up a cloud of ill-smelling steam. At one side +carpenters are at work trimming and cutting square holes in logs for the +beams of new buildings which the padres wish to put up. Saddle makers, +squatted on the ground, are busy fashioning saddletrees, carving, and +sewing leather. The shoemaker is hard at work with needle and awl. These +and many other trades are all going on at once. These courts, which are +called patios, were generally several acres in extent and at the most +flourishing period of the missions each settlement often gave shelter to +over a thousand people. + +Behind the central court is the home of the unmarried women. This, and +the rooms for their work, open on a separate square where there is shade +from orange and fig trees and a bathing pond supplied by the zanja, or +water ditch. Here square-figured, heavy-featured Indian girls are busy +spinning and weaving thread into cloth. Others are cutting out and +sewing garments. Some, squatted on the ground, are grinding corn into a +coarse meal for the atole, or mush. At the zanja several are engaged in +washing clothes. Here these girls live under the care of an old Indian +woman, and unless she accompanies them they may not, until they are +married, go outside these walls. Near the mission we visit a long row +of small adobe buildings, the homes of the families of the Christian +Indians; a neat, busy settlement where the little ones, comfortably +clothed, play about attended by the older children, while the mothers +work for the padres four or five hours daily. + +Leaving San Diego and traveling northward along “El Camino Real,” the +highway which leads from mission to mission, we reach San Luis Rey, +“King of the Missions,” as it is sometimes called. Its church is the +largest of all those erected by the padres, being one hundred and sixty +feet long, fifty-eight feet wide, and sixty feet high. Its one square, +two-story tower has a chime of bells, the sweet clear tones of which +reached our ears while we were yet miles from the mission. Counting +the arches of the long corridor, we find there are two hundred and +fifty-six. This mission became very wealthy. At one time it had a +baptized Indian population of several thousand, owned twenty-four +thousand cattle, ten thousand horses, and one hundred thousand sheep, +and harvested fourteen thousand bushels of grain a year. + +Its prosperity was due in a great measure to good Padre Peyri, who had +charge of it from its beginning. Many years afterwards, as we shall +see, the padres were ordered by the Mexican government to leave their +missions, the wealth they had gathered, and the Indians they had taught +and cared for. Father Peyri, knowing how hard it would be for him to get +away from his Indian children, as he called them, slipped off by night +to San Diego. In the morning the Indians missed him. Learning what had +happened, five hundred of them mounted their ponies in hot haste and +galloped all the way to San Diego, forty-five miles, to bring him back +by force. They arrived just as the ship, with Padre Peyri on board, +was weighing anchor. Standing on deck with outstretched arms, the padre +blessed them amid their tears and loud cries. Some flung themselves into +the water and swam after the ship. Four reached it, and, climbing up +its sides, so implored to be taken on board that the padre consented and +carried them with him to Rome, where one afterwards became a priest. + +The next link in our chain, the most beautiful of all the missions, is +that of San Juan Capistrano. It was founded in 1776, the year of +our Declaration of Independence, but in 1812 it was destroyed by an +earthquake, the massive towers and noble arch falling in on the Indians, +who were assembled in the church for morning prayers. Many of them were +killed. The church has never been rebuilt. + +It is Christmas Day when we reach San Gabriel, the next station on El +Camino Real. Inside the great cactus fence which incloses the square +about the mission we see a strangely mixed company,--Indians in their +best clothes, their faces shining from a liberal use of mission soap and +water; soldiers in their leather suits freshened up for the holiday; +a few ranchmen in the gay dress of the times, riding beautiful horses; +women and girls each brilliant in a bright-colored skirt with shawl or +scarf gracefully draped over head and shoulders. + +The Christmas Day morning service, held at four o’clock and known by the +common people as the Rooster Mass, is long since over. The crowd is now +gathered for the Pastorel, which, like the miracle plays of the Middle +Ages, is a drama with characters taken from the Bible. + +First to appear on the scene is an orchestra composed of young Indians +playing violins, bass viols, reeds, flutes, and guitars. Closely +following come the actors, representing San Gabriel and attendant +angels, Satan, Blind Bartimeus, and a company of shepherds. The +entertainment is very simple. There is the announcement of the birth of +the Savior, the adoration of the babe, and the offering of gifts. The +play concludes with a protracted struggle between San Gabriel and Satan +for the possession of Blind Bartimeus, in which the saint finally comes +off victor while the orchestra plays lively music. After the Pastorel +there are games, dancing, and feasting. Every one seems happy, and it is +with regret that we leave the gay scene. + +Through the hills to the north, across the Arroyo Seco, not dry now, but +a swift stream turbulent from the winter rains, we journey on. We pass +Eagle Rock, a great bowlder high upon the green hillside, one of the +landmarks of the region, and enter the valley of the Los Angeles River. +After traveling for several hours, we come to a large plantation of +trees, vines, and grainfields, in the midst of which lies the mission +of San Fernando. Its land extends for miles on every side and is +exceedingly fertile. In front of the beautiful cloisters, under tall +and stately palm trees, a fountain sends high its sparkling water, which +falls back with pleasant tinkle into a basin of carved stone. + +When we reach San Buenaventura, the next mission on our route, we find +priests and Indians exceedingly busy, for word has come from Monterey +that a Yankee trading vessel will soon sail for the south, and cattle +must be killed and the fat rendered into tallow for the market. As hides +and tallow are about the only commodities the padres have for sale, this +is an important event. Indians tend the caldrons of bubbling grease, and +keep up the fires under the kettles. When the tallow is slightly cooled, +they pour it into sacks made from the skins of animals. These, when +filled with the hardened tallow, look as though each again held a plump +beast. + +Traveling up the coast we come one afternoon to + +A golden bay ‘neath soft blue skies Where on a hillside creamy rise The +mission towers whose patron saint Is Barbara--with legend quaint. + +Here spring is merging into summer, and we are in time to see the +ceremony which closes the wheat harvest. The workmen gather the last +four sheaves from the field, and, fastening them in the form of a cross, +carry them, followed by a long procession of dusky reapers, up the +ascent to the church. As they approach, the bells burst out in a joyous +peal, and from the mission doors the padres come forth, one bearing a +cross, another the banner of the Virgin. A choir of Indian boys follows, +chanting a hymn. All advance slowly down the avenue to meet the sheaf +bearers, then counter march to the church, where the harvest festival is +celebrated. + +Passing by other missions, we must close our journey with a visit to San +Carlos, the Monterey mission, most prominent of all in the history of +the church and state. It was from the first the special charge of Padre +Junipero Serra, and, at the time we see it, his monument as well; for in +it at last his weary body was laid to rest beside his friend Padre Juan +Crespi, to whose writings, next to those of Padre Francisco Palou, we +are most indebted for our knowledge of Junipero Serra and his great +work. In 1813, with its graceful arched front and two towers, San Carlos +was a noble-looking building, but since that time one tower has fallen. + +We are reminded, as we look, of the scene when Junipero lay dying. Ever +since morning the grief-stricken people had been waiting, listening for +the news from the sick room. When the tolling of the bell announced that +the beautiful life was ended, crowds came weeping and lamenting, anxious +to see again the beloved face. + +It was with great difficulty that the Indians could be kept from tearing +the padre’s robe from his body, so earnestly did they desire to possess +some relic of the father they had loved so long. + +Here we notice the daily life of the Indian, which (in 1813) is the same +at all the missions. At sunrise comes the sound of the bells calling +to the morning prayers, and we see the natives hurrying to the church. +After service they gather for breakfast of mush and tortillas. As the +flocks and herds have increased, meat forms part of the daily food, +sometimes from the freshly killed beeves, but generally in a dried state +called carne seco. After breakfast the workers go in groups to their +various employments. Dinner is served at eleven, and they have a resting +period until two. Then work is again taken up and continued until +an hour before sunset, when the bells call to evening prayer. Supper +follows the evening service, after which the Indians can do as they like +until bedtime. We see some engaged in a game of ball. Many are squatted +on the ground playing other games,--gambling, we suspect. In one group +there is dancing to the music of violin and guitar. There is laughter +and chattering on all sides, and to us they seem happy, at least for the +time. + +The life led by the Indians at the missions was not generally a +hard one. No doubt when they first came, or were brought, into the +settlements, from their free wild life, they found it harder to keep the +regular hours of the missions than to perform the work, which was seldom +very heavy. When disobedient or lazy, they were punished severely, +judging by the standards of to-day, but really no harder than was at +that time the custom in schools and in navies the world over. When the +soldiers came in contact with the natives, there was generally cruel +treatment for the latter. But as far as possible the padres stood +between their charges and the soldiers, always placing the mission as +far from the presidio as the safety of the former would allow. + +At San Diego, about five years after its settlement, wild Indians +surprised the mission guard, and killed the padre and several of the +converted Indians in a most cruel manner. The Spanish government gave +orders that the murderers should be taken and executed and this mission +abandoned; but Padre Junipero begged so hard for the culprits, who, he +said, knew no better, having no knowledge of God, that he was finally +allowed to have his way. Gentleness and patience won the day; not only +the Indians who made the attack were converted, but many more of their +tribe, and the mission became a flourishing settlement. There was once +a rebellion among the Santa Clara and San Jose Indians, led by a young +convert from Santa Clara, which required soldiers from Monterey to put +down. Generally, however, the mission life was peaceful, the Indians +being fond of their padres. + +When Mexico became free from Spain, no more money was sent up to pay the +soldiers or run the government in Upper California, and for a long time +the missions advanced the money for the expenses of the government. + +After a time the new priests who came up from Mexico were not generally +men of such education and noble character as the early mission padres. +They cared less for missionary work, and were not so energetic. Their +influence was not always good for the Indians, who quickly saw the +difference between them and their old padres. They had little confidence +in the newcomers, so at the few missions where such as these were in +charge the Indians were disobedient, and received harsh punishments from +the padres; and trouble followed. + +In 1833 the Mexican government decided to confirm the mandate issued by +Spain several years before in regard to the breaking up of the mission +settlements. By this law each Indian was to have his own piece of land +to own and care for. He was to be no longer under the control of the +church, but to be his own master like any other citizen. As for the +padres, they were to give up their wealth and lands, and leave for other +missionary fields. That this would create a great change in California +all realized; still it was no new idea, but the plan Spain had in mind +when the missions were first founded. The mistake was in supposing that +it was possible for a people to rise in so short a time from the +wild life of the California Indian to the position of self-supporting +citizens in a civilized country. + +When the Indians understood this order, some were pleased and, +like children when freed from restraint, ceased to work and became +troublesome. Many, however, when they found that the padres were to +leave them, became very unhappy; some, it is said, even died from +homesickness for the mission and the padre. One committed suicide. + +It was soon seen that they were not fitted to look after themselves. +Only a few years had passed since they were savages, knowing nothing of +civilized life, and they still needed some one to guide them. They not +only began to drink and gamble, but were cheated and ill-treated on all +sides, until many of them became afraid of living in towns and went back +to wild life. For this they were no longer fitted, and they suffered so +much from hunger and cold that great numbers of them died. + +Because the Indians were not capable of caring for themselves at +the time of the secularization of the missions, the padres are often +severely blamed. It is said that they tried to keep the natives without +knowledge, in fact something like slaves. But the truth is that the +padres taught them by thousands, not only to cultivate the soil, to +irrigate wisely, to raise domestic cattle, but to work at every trade +that could be of use in a new country. They were encouraged to choose +from among themselves alcaldes, or under officers of the mission. +In this way every inducement was given to the Indian showing himself +capable of self-control, to rise to a prominent position in his little +world, where he generally ruled his fellow-workmen wisely and kindly. + +Added to this, the Indians acquired, through the teaching and example of +the padres, a religion that has lasted through generations. The breaking +up of the mission settlements scattered the Indians through the country, +many of them going back to the wild life in the forest and mountains, +where they no longer had any religious instructions. Yet to-day, after +all the years that have passed, there are few Indians from San Diego to +San Francisco who do not speak the language of the padres and follow, +though it may be but feebly, the teaching of the Catholic faith, the +“Santa Fe” of the padres. + +Some of the mission buildings, many of the flocks, and much of the land +fell into the hands of men who had no possible right to them. Orchards +and vineyards were cut down, cattle killed and stolen, and there was +only ruin where a short time before there had been thousands of busy +people leading comfortable lives. Soon the churches were neglected +and began to crumble away, bats flew in and out of the broken arches, +squirrels chattered fearlessly in the padre’s dining room, and the only +human visitor was some sad-hearted Indian worshiper, slipping timidly +into the desolate building to kneel alone before the altar where once + + Sweet strains from dusky neophytes + Rose up to God in praise, + When life centered ‘round the missions + In the happy golden days. + + + +Chapter V + +Pastoral Days + + + +For hundreds of years poets have written and singers have sung of the +loveliness of a country life, where there is no gathering together of +the inhabitants in great cities, no struggle to make money, where the +people live much out of doors, are simple in their tastes, healthy and +happy. + +These dreams of an ideal life the Spanish-speaking settlers of early +California made real. In this land of balmy airs, soft skies, and gentle +seas there lived, in the old days, a people who were indifferent +to money, who carried their religion into their daily pleasures and +sorrows, were brotherly toward one another, contented, beautiful, +joyous. + +About the time that the mission of San Francisco was founded, the +Spanish government decided to lay out two towns, or pueblos, where it +was thought the fertile character of the soil would lead the settlers +to raise grain and other supplies, not only for themselves but for the +people of the presidios. Up to this time a large part of the food had +been brought, at a considerable cost, from Mexico. + +We know that the governor, Felipe de Neve, chose the town sites with +care, for in the whole state there are nowhere more beautiful and +fertile spots than San Jose, near the southern end of San Francisco Bay, +and Los Angeles, near the famous valley of the San Gabriel River. In +founding these two pueblos, and a third which was located where Santa +Cruz now stands, the plan pursued was interesting and somewhat different +from the methods of settlement on the eastern coast of our country. + +First there was chosen a spot for the plaza, or central square, care +being taken that it was not far from good grazing land suitable for +the settlers’ stock. Around the plaza, lots were set apart for the +courthouse, town hall, church, granaries, and jail. Next were the lots +for the settlers, who each had, besides his home spot, several acres of +farming land with water, and the right to use the pasture lands of the +town. To each family was given, also, two horses, two cows, two oxen, +a mule, several goats, sheep, chickens, farming implements, and a small +sum in money. + +Instead of asking tax money of the town people, some of the land was +reserved as public property to be rented out, the proceeds to be used +for the expenses of the government. Many people believe that this is the +wisest plan man has yet discovered for managing the expenses of a city, +town, or country. + +Los Angeles had for many years a large amount of this land near the +center of the town, belonging to the city government. Gradually it was +taken up by settlers or appropriated by officials until, when the place +grew large and thriving, it was found that the land had become private +property; and finally the city had to pay large sums for parks and land +for public buildings. + +Each pueblo was ruled by an alcalde, or mayor, and council, chosen by +the people. To advise with these officers, there was a commissioner who +represented the governor of the country. During the first few years the +pueblo was governed largely by the commissioner. Presidios, which were, +at first, forts with homes for the commander, officers, soldiers, and +their families, and were ruled by the commanding officer or comandante, +gradually became towns; and then they, too, had their alcalde and +council. There were four presidios--Monterey, San Francisco, San Diego, +and Santa Barbara. + +In spite of all the gifts of free land, stock, and money, it was hard +to secure a suitable class of settlers. Many of those who came up from +Mexico to live in the pueblos were idle or dissipated, and nearly all +uneducated. When, after several years, a Spanish officer was sent down +from Monterey to convey to the Los Angeles settlers full title to their +lands, he found that not one of the twenty-four heads of families +could sign his name. Later a much better class of people came into +the country--men of education, brave, hardy members of good Spanish +families, who obtained grants of land from the government, bought cattle +from the mission herds, and began the business of stock raising. + +This was the beginning of the pastoral or shepherd life. Each rancho was +miles in extent, its cattle and horses numbered by thousands. The homes +were generally built around a court into which all the rooms opened, and +were constructed of adobe bricks such as were used at the missions. In +the better class of homes several feet of the space in the courtyard +next the wall were covered with tile roofing, forming a shaded veranda, +where the family were accustomed to spend the leisure hours. Here they +received visitors, the men smoked their cigaritos, and the children made +merry. In the long summer evenings sweet strains of Spanish music from +violin and guitar filled the air, and the hard earthen floor of the +courtyard resounded to the tap-tap of high-heeled slippers, the swish of +silken skirts, and the jingle of silver spurs, as the young people took +part in the graceful Spanish dances. + +It was no small matter to rule one of these great households. La Patrona +(the mistress) was generally the first one up. “Before the sun had +risen,” said a member of one of the old families, “while the linnets and +mocking birds were sounding their first notes, my mother would appear +at our bedside. ‘Up, muchachos, up, muchachas, and kneel for your Alba!’ +The Alba was a beautiful prayer of thanksgiving for care during the +night, with a plea for help through the dangers and temptations of the +day. No excuse for lying abed was accepted; up, and on the floor we +knelt, then she passed on to where the mayordomo, or foreman, and his +men were gathering in the courtyard. Here, too, was the cook with the +Indian maids, busy making tortillas for the morning meal. ‘Your Albas, +my children,’ my mother would say in her clear, firm voice. Down would +drop mayordomo, vaqueros, cook, and Indian girls, all devoutly reciting +the morning prayer. + +“After their prayer the children might, if they chose, return to their +beds, but before sleep could again overtake them there would probably +come from a distant room the voice of their aged grandfather asking them +questions from the Spanish catechism. + +“‘Children, who made you?’ he would call in a quavering voice. + +“A chorus of small voices would sing-song in response, ‘El Dios’ [God]. + +“Again he would question, ‘Children, who died for you?’ + +“Again the reply, ‘El Dios.’ + +“By the time the questions were all answered there was no chance for +more sleep.” + +Nothing was taken with the morning coffee but the tortilla. This was a +thin cake made of meal from corn ground by Indian women who used for the +grinding either a stone mortar and pestle, or a metate. The metate was a +three-legged stone about two feet in length and one in breadth, slightly +hollowed out in the center; grain was ground in this by rubbing with a +smaller stone. It took a great number of tortillas to serve the large +household. One Indian maid, kneeling beside a large white stone which +served as table, mixed the meal, salt, and water into balls of dough. +These she handed to another girl, who spatted them flat and thin by +tossing them from one of her smooth bare arms to the other until they +were but a little thicker than a knife blade. The cook then baked them +on a hot dry stone or griddle, turning them over and over to keep them +from burning. + +El Patron (the master) usually rose early, and after his coffee, put on +his high, wide-brimmed sombrero, and, attended by his sons, if they were +old enough, and his mayordomo, rode over his estate, looking after the +Indian vaqueros and workmen. One gentleman, a member of a fine Spanish +family which lived in the southern part of the state, used to ride +out with his sixteen sons, all of whom were over six feet in height. +Generally the families were large, often comprising twelve children or +more. These made merry households for the little people. + +After breakfast it was the duty of the mistress to set the host of +Indian girls to their tasks. The padres were always glad to let the +young Indian girls from the mission go into white families where there +was a wise mistress, that they might be trained in both religious and +domestic duties. Going to the gate of the courtyard, the Patrona would +call, “To the brooms, to the brooms, muchachas,” adding, if it were +foggy, “A very fine morning for the brooms, little ones;” and out would +come running a cluster of Indian girls carrying each a broom. At the +work they would go, sweeping as clean as a floor the courtyard and +ground for a large space about the house. + +Next they flocked to the sewing room, often sixteen or eighteen of these +girls, to take up their day’s work under the mistress’s eye. Some made +garments for the ranch hands, those who were better work women attended +to the making of clothing for the family, while the girls who were the +most skillful with the needle fashioned delicate, fine lace work and +embroidery. + +The children were seldom indoors unless it rained. There were no +schools; there were few ranches where there were teachers, and the +fathers and mothers generally had their hands too full to devote +themselves to their children’s education, so in the early days it was +all playtime. Later, schools were started for boys, and dreadful places +they were. + +As General Vallejo describes them, they were generally held in a narrow, +badly lighted room, with no adornment but a large green cross or some +picture of a saint hanging beside the master’s table. The master was +often an old soldier in fantastic dress, with ill-tempered visage. The +scholar entered, walked the length of the room, knelt before the cross +or picture, recited a prayer, then tremblingly approached the master, +saying, “Your hand, Senor Maestro,” when with a grunt the hand would be +extended to him to be kissed. Little was taught besides the reading of +the primer and the catechism. + +Ranch boys early learned to ride, each having his own horse and saddle. +Every year there was a rodeo, or “round-up,” held in each neighborhood, +where cattle from all the surrounding ranches were driven to one point +for the purpose of counting the animals and branding the young. Each +stock owner had to be there with all the men from his ranch who could +ride, nor must he forget his branding irons. These brands were recorded +in the government book of the department, and any one changing the form +of his iron in any manner without the permission of the judge was guilty +of a crime. + +To the boys the rodeo was the most interesting time of the whole year. +The coming of the strange herds and vaqueros, the counting and the +separating of the animals, and the branding of the young stock made a +period of excitement and fun. Here was offered a chance for the display +of good horsemanship. Sometimes as the cattle were being gradually +herded into a circular mass, an unruly cow or bull would suddenly dart +from the drove and run away at full speed. A vaquero on horseback would +immediately dash after the animal, and, coming up with it, lean from the +saddle and seizing the runaway by the tail, spur his horse forward. Then +by a quick movement he would give a jerk and suddenly let go his hold, +when the animal would fall rolling over and over on the ground. By the +time it was up again it was tamed. Many a boy earned his first praise +for good riding at a rodeo. + +Nowhere in the world were there better and more graceful riders. Horses +used for pleasure were fine, spirited animals. The saddle and the bridle +were generally handsomely inlaid with silver or gold. A California +gentleman in fiesta costume, mounted on his favorite horse, was a +delight to the eyes. His hat, wide in the brim, high and pointed in the +crown, was made of soft gray wool and ornamented with gold or silver +lace and cord, sometimes embroidered with rubies and emeralds until it +was very heavy and exceedingly valuable. His white shirt was of thin, +embroidered muslin, and the white stock, too, was of thin stuff wrapped +several times around the neck, then tied gracefully in front. The jacket +was of cloth or velvet, in dark colors, blue, green, or black, with +buttons and lace trimmings of silver or gold, often of a very elaborate +design. About the waist was tied a wide sash of soft material and gay +color, the ends hanging down at the side. The breeches were of velvet +or heavy cloth, dark in color, save when the rider was gay in his taste, +then they might be of bright tints. They either ended at the knee, below +which were leggings of deerskin, or fitted the figure closely down to +just above the ankle, where they widened out and were slashed at the +outer seam, showing thin white drawers, which puffed prettily between +the slashes. A gentleman in Los Angeles still has the trimmings for such +suit, consisting of three hundred and fifty pieces of silver filigree +work. + +Every one seemed to live out of doors, and though the ranchos were +widely scattered, there was much visiting and social gayety. All who +could, traveled on horseback; while the mother of the family, the +children, and old people used the clumsy carreta with its squeaking +wheels. + +One of the prettiest sights was a wedding procession as it escorted +the bride from her home to the mission church. Horses were gayly +caparisoned, and the riders richly dressed. The nearest relative of the +bride carried her before him on the saddle, across which hung a loop +of gold or silver braid for her stirrup, in which rested her little +satin-shod foot. Her escort sat behind her on the bearskin saddle +blanket. Accompanying the party were musicians playing guitar and +violin, each managing horse and instrument with equal skill. + +The California woman generally wore a full skirt of silk, satin, wool, +or cotton, a loose waist of thin white goods, and, in cold weather, +a short bolero jacket of as rich material as could be obtained. A +bright-colored ribbon served for a sash, and a lace handkerchief or a +muslin scarf was folded over the shoulders and neck. In place of bonnet +and wrap a lace or silk shawl, or a narrow scarf called a rebosa, was +gracefully draped over the head and shoulders. + +Children were dressed like the older people, and very pretty were the +girls in their low-necked, short-sleeved camisas or waists, and full gay +skirts, their hair in straight braids hanging down over the shoulders. +The short breeches, pretty round jackets, and gay sashes were very +becoming to the boys. + +At night the daughters of the house, big and little, were locked into +their rooms by their mother, the father attending in the same manner +to the boys. In the morning the mother’s first duty was to unlock these +doors. + +Various games were played. Blindman’s buff was a great favorite for +moonlight nights. There was also a game called cuatrito, in which the +players threw bits of stone at a mark drawn on the ground at a certain +distance. + +“In my time,” said a prominent Californian of to-day, “we used to play +this game with golden slugs instead of stones; there was always a basket +of slugs sitting door. We liked them because they carried well, and we +thought it nothing unusual to use them as playthings. They were abundant +in most of the houses; my mother and her friends used them as soap +dishes in, the bedrooms. + +“In the spare rooms was always a little pile of money covered by a +napkin, from which the visitor was expected to help himself if he +needed. We would have considered it disgraceful to count the guest +money.” + +“Our parents were very strict with us,” said another Californian, +“much more so than is the custom to-day. Sometimes while the parents, +brothers, and sisters were eating their meal, a child who was naughty +had for punishment to kneel in one corner of the dining room before +a high stool, on which was an earthen plate, a tin cup, and a wooden +spoon. It was worse than a flogging, a thousand times. As soon as the +father went out, the mother and sisters hastened to the sorrowful one +and comforted him with the best things from the table.” + +The clothes were not laundered each week, but were saved up often for +several weeks or even a month or two, and then came a wash-day frolic. +Imagine wash day looked forward to as a delightful event! So it was, +however, to many California children. Senorita Vallejo, in the Century +Magazine (Vol. 41), thus describes one of these excursions:-- + +“It made us children happy to be waked before sunrise to prepare for +the ‘wash-day expedition.’ The night before, the Indians had soaped +the clumsy carreta’s great wheels. Lunch was placed in baskets, and the +gentle oxen were yoked to the pole. We climbed in under the green cloth +of an old Mexican flag which was used as an awning, and the white-haired +Indian driver plodded beside with his long oxgoad. The great piles of +soiled linen were fastened on the backs of horses led by other servants, +while the girls and women who were to do the washing trooped along by +the side of the carreta. Our progress was slow, and it was generally +sunrise before we reached the spring. The steps of the carreta were +so low that we could climb in or out without stopping the oxen. The +watchful mother guided the whole party, seeing that none strayed too +far after flowers, or loitered too long. Sometimes we heard the howl +of coyotes and the noise of other wild animals, and then none of the +children were allowed to leave the carreta. + +“A great dark mountain rose behind the spring, and the broad, beautiful +valley, unfenced and dotted with browsing herds, sloped down to the bay +[of San Francisco]. We watched the women unload the linen and carry it +to the spring, where they put home-made soap on the clothes, dipped them +in the spring, and rubbed them on the smooth rocks until they were white +as snow. Then they were spread out to dry on the tops of the low bushes +growing on the warm, windless southern slopes of the mountain.” After +a happy day in the woods came “the late return at twilight, when the +younger children were all asleep in the slow carreta and the Indians +were singing hymns as they drove the linen-laden horses down the dusky +ravines.” + +As at the missions, soon the ranchos, little was raised for sale save +hides and tallow from the cattle. It was not the fault of the settlers +that, living in so fertile a country, they made so little use of its +productiveness. Spain’s laws in regard to trade were made entirely +in the interests of the mother country, the settlers of New Spain, +especially of Alta California, having no encouragement to raise more +than they needed for use at home. They could not sell their produce to +ships from foreign countries, for the penalty for that was death to the +foreigner and severe punishment for the colonist. All trade had to be +carried on in Spanish vessels, and it was forbidden to ship olive +oil, wine, or anything that was raised or made in the home country. +As California and Spain were much alike in climate and soil, this law +really stopped all outside trade except that arising from cattle. + +After the territory became a Mexican province, the rules were not so +severe in regard to foreign trade, and finally the New England vessels +freely entered the ports by paying certain duties to the government. + +To the young people upon the ranchos the arrival of a trading vessel was +a great event. If the port was not far from the house, the Patrona and +the young ladies sometimes went on board to select for themselves +from the miscellaneous cargo the things they desired; but as they were +generally afraid of the water, especially of trusting themselves in the +ship’s boats, the father and boys often represented the family on such +occasions. + +When news arrived that a ship was coming down the coast, elder sisters +became very kind and attentive to younger brothers, who accepted panocha +(a coarse brown sugar cast in square or scalloped cakes) and other gifts +contentedly, knowing well they would be expected to “coax Father” to +buy the ring, sash, necklace, or fan which the good sister particularly +desired. Often a ranchero would go down to the harbor with ten or +fifteen ox carts loaded with hides, skins, and tallow, and return with +ranch implements, furniture, dishes, sugar, other food, clothes, and +ornaments of all kinds. Such laughing, chattering, and excitement as +there was when the squeaking ox carts came into the courtyard! The whole +household, from the Patrona and her guests to the Indian mothers with +their children from the kitchen precincts, gathered to watch the slow +unloading of the purchases. Slow, indeed, seemed the process to the +eager children of the family. Except on horseback for a short dash, the +Californian never hurried. For a journey the usual gait was a little jog +trot, hardly faster than a walk. + +Senorita Vallejo, in the Century Magazine, describes the loading of a +ship’s cargo: “The landing place for the mission of San Jose was at the +mouth of a salt water creek several miles away. When a trading vessel +entered San Francisco Bay, the large ship’s boat would be sent up this +creek to collect the hides and tallow; but if the season was a wet one, +the roads would be too bad for the ox carts; then each separate hide was +doubled across the middle and placed on the head of an Indian. Sometimes +long files of Indians might be seen, each carrying hides in this manner, +as they trotted across the wide, flat plains or pushed their way through +the little forest of dried mustard stalks to the creek mouth.” + +No such thing was known as a Californian breaking his word in regard to +a debt. Yankee ship owners trusted him freely. Once, when a ship was +in port, the captain left it for a little while in charge of the clerk +whose business it was to sell the goods, but who had never been in +California before and knew nothing of its customs. Down to the shore +came a ranchero attended by servants and ox carts. He came on board and +bought many things, intending to pay later with hides and tallow which +were not then ready. When he ordered the goods taken ashore with never +a word as to payment, the clerk informed him that he must either give +money or else give some writing saying that he would pay. + +Now this Californian, though rich in lands and stock, could neither read +nor write. When he understood that he was being distrusted, he gravely +drew from his beard a hair, and, handing it to the clerk, said: “Give +this to your master and tell him it is a hair from the beard of Agustin +Machado. You will find it sufficient guarantee.” The clerk saw that he +had made a mistake, and, taking the hair, placed it in the leaves of +his note book and allowed the goods to be taken away. When the captain +returned, he was mortified that there had been any distrust shown. + +While California was a Spanish province its chief ruler was appointed by +the home government and was always an educated gentleman of good family, +generally an officer of the army. The coming of a new governor was a +great event in the colony and was celebrated with all possible ceremony +and display. + +In 1810 Mexico began its revolt against Spain. In California the people +were in sympathy with the mother country and had no doubt of her final +success. For a long time they received little news of how the war was +progressing. They only knew that no more money was sent up to pay +the soldiers or the expenses of government, that the padres no longer +received any income from the Pius Fund, that even the trading vessels +from Mexico upon which they depended for their supplies had ceased to +come. + +Times became so hard that the local government turned for aid to the +missions, which had become largely self-supporting. Many of them were +indeed wealthy communities, and the padres responded generously to the +demand for help. For several years they furnished food and clothing to +the soldiers, and money for the expenses of government, for the most of +which they never received payment. + +Gradually the fine clothes of the Californians wore out, no vessels +arrived from which they could purchase more, and again it was the +missions which came to the rescue. Their cotton and woolen goods were in +great demand. Indian spinners and weavers were busy from morning until +night making clothes for the “gente de razon,” or “people of reason,” + which was the term by which the white settlers were distinguished from +the natives. + +In 1822 a vessel came up from the south, bringing to the governor +official notice that the war had been decided in favor of Mexico, and +that California was therefore a Mexican province. This was disagreeable +news to the Californians, but after consultation held by the governor, +his officers, the padre who was the president of the missions, and some +of the leading citizens, it was decided that they were too far away from +Spain to be able to resist, and that they should take the oath to be +true to the Mexican government. For the padres, who were all Spaniards +and loyal to the home government, this was a hard thing to do, and they +never became reconciled to the change. + +From this time California was not so well governed. Mexico, which was +then an empire but soon became a republic, had its hands full looking +after its own affairs, and little attention was paid its far-off +province. Its best men were needed at home, and the governors sent up +the coast were not always wise or pleasing to the people. There were +several revolutions with but little bloodshed. One governor was sent +back to Mexico. At one time the Californians declared that theirs was +a free state, and a young man named Alvarado was made governor. General +Vallejo, who was his uncle, was given command of the army. But soon +the Californians quarreled bitterly among themselves, so that this +government did not last long and the territory went back under the rule +of Mexico. That government, in order to have peace in the province, +confirmed Alvarado and Vallejo in their positions. + +During the war between Mexico and Spain a South American pirate paid a +visit to the coast of Upper California. Monterey was attacked and partly +destroyed, also the mission of San Juan Capistrano and the rancho El +Refugio, the home of Captain Ortega, the discoverer of San Francisco +Bay. In the crew of the pirate ship was a young American named Chapman, +who had found life among his rough associates not so interesting as he +had hoped it would be, so he deserted, but was taken prisoner by +the Californians and imprisoned in a canyon near the present site of +Pasadena. Later he was brought down to Los Angeles and set at liberty. +He found the people of the pueblo planning to build a church on the +plaza, and he told them that if they would let him have some Indian +workmen he would get some large timbers down from the canyon. He +accomplished this successfully, and it was considered a wonderful work. +The stumps of the trees can yet be seen far up on the mountain side, and +the timbers are still in the plaza church. + +Visiting San Gabriel, young Chapman found the padres having trouble +to keep the flour which they ground in their new stone mill from being +dampened by water from the mill wheel. Knowing something of machinery, +the American remedied the defect by means of a flutter wheel, and there +was no more trouble. + +For years the catching of otters for their fur along the lagoons and +bays about San Francisco and Monterey brought considerable money to the +northern missions. Chapman, finding that the padres of San Gabriel were +anxious to engage in this trade, built for them the first sea-going boat +ever constructed in southern California. It was a schooner, the various +parts of which he made in the workshop of the mission. They were then +carried down to San Pedro, where he put them together and successfully +launched the vessel. + +Finally, to close his history, it is recorded of Mr. Chapman that he +fell in love with the pretty daughter of Captain Ortega, whose home +he had helped his pirate associates to attack, that he married her and +lived to a good old age. The country had few more useful citizens than +this capable man, the first American to settle in the southern part of +California. + +With the secularization of the missions in 1833-34 came a change in the +peaceful pastoral life. In each section all that was of interest had +from the first centered around its mission. One of the chief pleasures +of the early Californians was the feast day, “La Fiesta,” which +celebrated a saint’s birthday. During the year there were many of these +festivals. First there were religious exercises at the mission church; +then in the great square there followed dancing, games, and feasting, +in which all classes took some part. These happy church festivals ceased +with the breaking up of the mission settlements. Some of the Indians +disturbed the community by disorderly conduct, and the ill treatment and +suffering of the rest of these simple people caused sorrow and dismay +in the hearts of the better portion of the settlers. There was a wild +scramble for the lands, stock, and other wealth which had been gathered +by the missionaries and their Indian workmen. + +Many of the beautiful churches were sold to people who cared nothing for +the faith they represented. In some, cattle were stabled. The mission +bells were silent, and many of the mission settlements, once so busy and +prosperous, were solitary and in ruins. + +Life in the great ranchos still went on much as before, but it was no +longer so simple and joyous. A change had begun, and not many years +later, with the coming of the Americans at the time of the Mexican war, +the peaceful, happy life of Spanish California was brought to an end. + + + +Chapter VI + +The Footsteps of the Stranger + + + +At no point does the early history of California come in contact with +that of the colonies of the Eastern coast of the United States. The +nearest approach to such contact was in the year 1789, when Captain +Arguello, commander of the presidio of San Francisco, received the +following orders from the governor of the province:-- + +“Should there arrive at your port a ship named Columbia, which, they +say, belongs to General Washington of the American States, you will +take measures to secure the vessel with all the people aboard with +discretion, tact, cleverness, and caution.” As the Columbia failed to +enter the Californian port, the Spanish commander had no chance to try +his wits and guns with those of the Yankee captain. + +It would seem as though the Californians lived for a time in fear of +their Eastern neighbors, since prayers were offered at some of the +missions that the people be preserved from “Los Americanos;” but after +the coming of the first two or three American ships, when trade began +to be established, there arose the kindliest feeling between the New +England traders and the Californians. The ship Otter, from Boston, which +came to the coast in 1796, was the first vessel from the United States +to anchor in a California port. + +La Perouse, in command of a French scientific expedition, was the +first foreigner of prominence to visit California. Of his visit, which +occurred in the fall of 1786, he writes in his journal: “The governor +put into the execution of his orders in regard to, us a graciousness and +air of interest that merits from us the liveliest acknowledgments, and +the padres were as kind to us as the officers. We were invited to dine +at the Mission San Carlos, two leagues from Monterey, were received upon +our arrival there like lords of a parish visiting their estates. The +president of the missions, clad in his robe, met us at the door of the +church, which was illuminated as for the grandest festival. We were led +to the foot of the altar and the Te Deum chanted in thanksgiving for the +happy issue of our voyage.” + +La Perouse’s account of the country, the people, and the missions is +of great value in giving us a picture of these times. In regard to the +Indians he said that he wished the padres might teach them, besides the +principles of the Christian religion, some facts about law and civil +government, “Although,” said he, “I admit that their progress would be +very slow, the pains which it would be necessary to take very hard and +tiresome.” + +Captain Vancouver, with two vessels of the British navy, bound on +an exploring voyage round the world, was the next stranger to visit, +California. So much did he enjoy the courtesy of the Spanish officers +that when his map of the coast came out it was found that he had honored +his hosts of San Francisco and Monterey by naming for them two leading +capes of the territory, one Point Arguello and the other Point Sal. + +As early as 1781 Russia had settlements in Sitka and adjacent islands, +for the benefit of its fur traders, and in 1805 the Czar sent a young +officer of his court to look into the condition of these trading posts. +Count Rezanof found the people suffering and saw that unless food was +brought to them promptly, they would die from starvation. San Francisco +was the nearest port, and though he knew that Spain did not allow trade +with foreign countries, the Russian determined to make the attempt to +get supplies there. Loading a vessel with goods which had been brought +out for the Indian trade of the north coast, he sailed southward. The +story of his visit is well told by Bret Harte in his beautiful poem, +“Concepcion de Arguello.” + +Rezanof was warmly welcomed and generously entertained by Commander +Arguello of the presidio of San Francisco, but in vain did he try to +trade off his cargo for food for his starving people. The governor and +his officers dared not disobey the laws of Spain in regard to foreign +trade. While they were arguing and debating, however, something happened +which changed their views. The Count fell in love with the commander’s +beautiful daughter, Concepcion. Then, as the poem has it,-- + +“. . . points of gravest import yielded slowly one by one, And by Love +was consummated what Diplomacy begun.” + +It seemed to the governor that the man who was to be son-in-law in the +powerful family of Arguello could not be considered as a foreigner, and +therefore the law need not apply in his case. Thus the Count got his +ship load of food and sailed away, promising to return as soon as +possible for his betrothed wife. One of the most interesting pictures of +early California is the poem which tells of this pathetic love story. + +Count Rezanof was so pleased with the beauty and fertility of California +that his letters interested the Czar, who decided to found a colony on +the coast. An exploring expedition was sent out, and the territory about +Russian River in Sonoma County was purchased of the Indians for three +blankets, three pairs of trousers, two axes, three hoes, and some beads. +Fort Ross was the main settlement, and was the home of the governor, +his officers and their families, all accomplished, intelligent men +and women. Besides the soldiers there were a number of mechanics and a +company of natives from the Aleutian Islands, who were employed by the +Russians to hunt the otter. Up and down the coast roamed these wild +sea hunters, even collecting their furry game in San Francisco Bay and +defying the comandante of the presidio, who had no boats with which +to pursue them, and so could do nothing but fume and write letters of +remonstrance to the governor of Fort Ross. Spain, and later Mexico, +looked with disfavor and suspicion upon the Russian settlement, but +the people of California were always ready for secret trade with their +northern neighbors. + +In 1816 Otto von Kotzebue, captain of the Russian ship Rurik, visited +San Francisco and was entertained by the comandante, Lieutenant +Luis Arguello. With Captain Kotzebue was the German poet, Albert von +Chamisso. + +The Russian captain, with brighter faith and keener insight than any +other of the early visitors to the coast, says of the country: “It +has hitherto been the fate of these regions to remain unnoticed; but +posterity will do them justice; towns and cities will flourish where +all is now desert; the waters over which scarcely a solitary boat is +yet seen to glide will reflect the flags of all nations; and a happy, +prosperous people receiving with thankfulness what prodigal nature +bestows for their use will dispense her treasures over every part of the +world.” + +In the writings of Albert von Chamisso can be found a most interesting +description of his visit. To him is due the honor of giving to our +Californian poppy its botanical name. + +In 1841, the supply of otter having become exhausted, the Russians sold +their property and claims about Fort Ross to the Swiss emigrant, +the genial John Sutter. In 1903, through the agency of the Landmarks +Society, this property and its still well-preserved buildings came into +the possession of the state of California. + +As early as 1826 there were a number of foreigners settled in +California. These were mostly men from Great Britain or the United +States who had married California women and lived and often dressed like +their Spanish-speaking neighbors. Captain John Sutter, the Swiss who +bought out the Russians of Fort Ross, came to California in 1839. He +obtained from the Mexican government an extensive grant of land about +the present site of Sacramento, and here he erected the famous Sutter’s +Fort where all newcomers, were made welcome and, if they desired, given +work under this kindest of masters. Around the fort, which was armed +with cannon bought from the Russians, he built a high stockade. He +gained the good will of the Indians and had their young men drilled +daily in military tactics by a German officer. + +Governor Alvarado, at the time of his revolution in 1837, had in his +forces, under a leader named Graham, a company of wandering Americans, +trappers and hunters of the roughest type. Although there was no real +war, and no fighting occurred, yet when Alvarado and his party were +successful, Graham and his men demanded large rewards, and because the +governor would not satisfy them they began to persecute him in every way +possible. Alvarado says: “I was insulted at every turn by the drunken +followers of Graham; when I walked in my garden they would climb on +the wall and call upon me in terms of the greatest familiarity, ‘Ho, +Bautista, come here, I want to speak to you.’ It was ‘Bautista’ here, +‘Bautista’ there.” + +To express dissatisfaction they held meetings in which they talked +loudly about their country’s getting possession of the land, until +Governor Alvarado, having good reason to believe that they were plotting +a revolution, expelled them from the territory and sent them to Mexico. + +The United States took up the defense of the exiles and insisted on +their being returned to California. It does not seem that the +better class of Americans who had been long residents of the country +sympathized with Graham and his followers, but from this time there were +less kindly relations between the Californians and the citizens of the +United States who came into the territory. + +We come now to the story of the conquest. + +At the beginning of the year 1845 the United States and Mexico were on +the verge of war over Texas, which had been formerly a Mexican province, +but through the influence of American settlers had rebelled, declaring +itself an independent state, and had applied for admission to the +American Union. Because the question of slavery was concerned in this +application, it caused intense excitement throughout the United +States. The South was determined to have the new territory come in as a +slave-holding state, while the men of the North opposed the annexation +of another acre of slave land. + +Eight Northern legislatures protested against its admission. Twelve +leading senators of the North declared that “it would result in the +dissolution of the United States and would justify it.” On the other +hand, the South resolved that “it would be better to be out of the Union +with Texas than in it without her.” The South won its point. Texas was +admitted, and at once a dispute with Mexico arose over the boundary +lines, and war at length followed, being brought on in a measure by the +entrance of United States troops into the disputed territory. During +the long discussion over Texas the United States was having trouble +with Great Britain over Oregon, which was then the whole country lying +between the Mexican province of California and the Russian possessions +on the north coast (now Alaska). Before the invention of steam cars and +the construction of railroads, the Pacific coast region had been thought +of little value. The popular idea was expressed by Webster when he said: +“What do we want of this vast, worthless area, this region of savages +and wild beasts, of deserts, of shifting sands and whirlwinds of dust, +of cactus and prairie dogs?” But now the United States was waking up, +and things looked different. Of Oregon the Americans were determined +to have at least a portion. California, so far away from Mexico and so +poorly governed, they would like to take under their protection,--at +least the region around the great Bay of San Francisco. + +As early as 1840 the United States government urged its consul at +Monterey, an American named Larkin, secretly to influence the leading +Californians to follow the example of Texas, secede from Mexico, and +join the United States, where he was to assure them they would receive a +brother’s welcome. Just as he felt he might be successful his plans were +overthrown. + +One morning in 1842 there came sailing into Monterey Bay two American +men-of-war. Suddenly, to the consternation of those watching from the +shore, one of the ships was seen to fire upon an outgoing Mexican sloop. +After making it captive the three vessels proceeded to the anchorage. +Great was the excitement in Monterey. Neither the comandante nor the +American consul could imagine the reason for such strange conduct. It +was soon explained, however, by the arrival of a ship’s boat bringing an +officer who delivered to the authorities a demand for the surrender +of the fort and place to the American commander of the Pacific fleet, +Commodore Jones, who was on board one of the newly arrived vessels. + +The Mexican officials and the officers of the army were astonished; so, +too, was the United States consul. They knew of no war between these +countries. Since he had neither men nor arms to resist this strange +demand, Alvarado, who was acting for the absent governor, gave orders +to surrender, and the next day the Mexican flag and forces gave place to +those of the United States. + +After the ceremony of taking possession, Commodore Jones had a talk +with the American consul, Mr. Larkin, and learned to his dismay that the +letters upon which he had acted and which indicated that war had been +declared were misleading, and from the latest news it was evident that +there was peace between the two countries. + +The commodore saw at once that he had made a serious mistake, “a breach +of the faith of nations,” as it was called, which was liable to involve +the United States in grave difficulties. How best to undo his rash +action was now his thought. + +He apologized to the Mexican commander and gave back possession of the +fort. Next, he had the unhappy task of taking down the American flag and +replacing it with the cactus and eagle banner of Mexico, to which the +guns of his vessels gave a salute of honor. From Monterey he sailed +away to San Pedro. There he waited while he sent a messenger to Governor +Micheltorena, who was living in Los Angeles, asking permission to +call upon him and apologize in person. This request was granted, and +Commodore Jones and his staff came up to Los Angeles, where they were +the guests of their countryman, Don Abel Stearns, who, as he had been +working with Consul Larkin to win the Californians to the United States, +was most anxious to undo the mischief of the flag raising. For the +benefit of this history, Dona Arcadia Bandini, who was the beautiful +Spanish wife of Mr. Stearns, tells the story of the visit:-- + +“We gave a dinner to the governor, the commodore, and their attendants. +Everything was very friendly; they seemed to enjoy themselves, and the +uniforms of the two countries were very handsome. On the next day but +one the governor gave a ball. It was to be at his home, which was the +only two-story house in Los Angeles. To show the Americans how patriotic +the people of California were, the governor requested in the invitations +that all the ladies wear white with a scarf of the Mexican colors,--red, +green, and white. Of course we gladly complied, though some of us had to +work hard to get our costumes ready. + +“The day of the ball came, but with it came rain, such a storm as I +never had seen. As it drew toward evening the water came down faster and +faster. The governor had the only carriage in California, and this he +was to send for the commodore, Mr. Stearns, Isadora, and myself; but +the poor young officers had to walk, and their faces were long when they +looked out at the rain and then down at their fine uniforms and shining +boots. + +“Our California horses were not trained to pull loads and would not work +in the rain, so when the carriage came for us it was drawn by a number +of the governor’s Cholo soldiers. We got in quite safely, and it was +only a short distance we had to go, but as I was getting out the wind +suddenly changed and down came a torrent of water on me. It was clear +that I could not go to the ball in that condition, but the governor +immediately ordered the soldiers to pull the carriage back to my home, +where I soon made another toilet. The ball was delightful. The governor +and the commodore vied with each other in exchanging compliments and +courtesies.” + +It was a sad fact, however, that in spite of apologies, dinners, and +balls, Consul Larkin now found it difficult to persuade his California +neighbors that the United States looked upon them as brothers, and they +began to regard with suspicion the host of American emigrants who were +coming into the territory. + +In 1842 Lieutenant Fremont, under orders from the United States +government, made the first of his wonderful journeys over deserts and +rough mountain ranges into the great unknown West. Soon he was to become +famous, not only in his own country but in Europe, as the “Pathfinder,” + the road maker of the West. Already many an Oregon emigrant had blessed +the name of Fremont for making plain the trail for himself and his loved +ones. + +In 1846 Captain Fremont, conducting an exploring and scientific +expedition, entered California with sixty men and encamped in the valley +of the San Joaquin. Later he moved down into the heart of the California +settlements and encamped on the Salinas River. Possibly, knowing that +war would soon be declared between his country and Mexico, he had +determined to see as much of the enemy’s position as possible, not +caring particularly what the Mexican authorities might think. + +As a natural result, General Castro, commander of the California forces, +objected; Fremont defied him, and there seemed a likelihood of immediate +war. There was no actual fighting, however, and in a day or two Fremont +continued his journey toward Oregon. + +He had gone but a little way when he was overtaken by a captain of the +navy named Gillespie, bringing him letters from the officers of the +government at Washington. Upon reading these, Fremont immediately turned +about and marched swiftly back to Sutter’s Fort, where he encamped. Just +what orders the messages from Washington contained, no one knows; but it +is thought that perhaps they informed Fremont that war would be declared +very soon and that the government would be pleased if he could quietly +get possession of California. + +If this was so, he had the best of reasons for his later actions. +If not, then in his eagerness to obtain for his country the valuable +territory he so well appreciated and in his desire to win for himself +the honor of gaining it, he brought on a war that caused the loss of +many lives and much property, and the growth of a feeling of bitterness +and distrust between Americans and Californians that has not yet +entirely passed away. Still it is by no means certain that California +could have been won without fighting, even had Fremont and the American +settlers been more patient. + +Soon many Americans were gathered about Fremont’s camp; but though there +were a number of rumors as to what General Castro was going to do to +them, there was no action contrary to the previous kindly treatment all +had received from the hands of the Californians. Still the emigrants +felt that as soon as war was declared an army from Mexico might come up +which would not be so considerate of them and their families as had been +their California neighbors. + +Having good reason to feel certain that Fremont would stand back of them +if they began the fight, a company of Americans attacked one of Castro’s +officers, who, with a few men, was taking a band of horses to Monterey. +Securing the horses, but letting the men who had them in charge get +away, they hurried them to Fremont’s camp, where they left them while +they went on to Sonoma. Here they made prisoner General Vallejo, +commander of that department of the territory, together with his brother +and staff. + +General Vallejo was one of the leading Californians of the north, a man +of fine character, quiet and conservative, generous toward the needy +emigrants and favorable to annexation with the United States. When he +saw the rough character of the men surrounding his house that Sunday +morning, he was at first somewhat alarmed. A man named Semple, who was +one of the attacking party, describing the event in a Monterey paper +sometime afterward, says: “Most of us were dressed in leather hunting +shirts, many were very greasy, and all were heavily armed. We were about +as rough a looking set of men as one could well imagine.” When they +assured the general that they were acting under orders from Fremont, he +seemed to feel no more anxiety, gave up his keys, and arranged for +the protection of the people of his settlement. He was first taken to +Fremont’s headquarters, then for safe keeping was sent on to Sutter’s +Fort. + +Meanwhile the party which had been left in charge of affairs at Sonoma +chose one of their number, a man named Ide, as their leader. Realizing +that they had begun a war, they felt the need of a flag, and not +daring to use that of the United States, they proceeded to make one for +themselves. For their emblem they chose the strongest and largest of the +animals of California, the grizzly bear. The flag was made of a Mexican +rebosa or scarf of unbleached muslin about a yard in width and five feet +long. To the bottom of this they sewed a strip of red flannel; in one +corner they outlined a five-pointed star, and facing it a grizzly bear. +These were filled in with red ink and under them in black letters +were the words “California Republic.” The temporary government of +the followers of the Bear Flag is generally known as the “Bear Flag +Republic.” + +As soon as it seemed probable that the Californians under General +Castro were marching to attack the Americans, Captain Fremont joined his +countrymen, and from that time the United States flag took the place of +the banner of the bear. A little later Captain Fremont took the presidio +and port of San Francisco, and to him is due the honor of naming +beautiful Golden Gate. + +About two weeks after the capture of Sonoma, Commodore Sloat, with +two vessels of the United States navy, entered the harbor of Monterey. +Although he had come for the purpose of taking the territory for his +country, and had orders to see to it that England did not get possession +of California ahead of him, yet he had been cautioned to deal kindly +with the Californians, and he hesitated to take decided steps. It took +him six days to make up his mind, and then he came to a decision +partly on account of the actions of Fremont and his men. Slowly up the +flagstaff on the fort of Monterey rose the Stars and Stripes. Unfolded +by the sea breeze, the beautiful flag of the United States waved again +over the land of the padres, and this time to stay. A few days later +Commodore Stockton reached California to take command in place of +Commodore Sloat, who returned home. Stockton appointed Fremont commander +of the American forces on land, and together they completed the conquest +of the territory. + +It was unfortunate that Commodore Stockton had so lately arrived from +the East that he did not fully understand the state of affairs. As he +believed the wild rumors which, falsely, accused the Californians of +treachery and cruelty, his proclamations were harsh and unjust to +the proud but kindly people whom he was conquering. Many of the late +historians find much to blame in the treatment given by the Americans +to the people of California. Severity was often used when kindness would +have had far better effect. + +Los Angeles and San Diego were taken by Stockton and Fremont without +any fighting, and leaving a few troops in the south, both commanders +returned to Monterey. They were soon recalled by the news that the +people of Los Angeles had risen against the harsh rule of Captain +Gillespie, who had been left in command; that the Americans had +surrendered but had been allowed to retire to San Pedro, and that all +the south was in a state of active rebellion. + +Landing at San Pedro, Stockton waited a few days, then fearing the +enemy was too strong for his forces, sailed away to San Diego. Here the +Americans received a hearty welcome, and much-needed assistance, from +the Spanish families of Bandini and Arguello. + +Mr. Bandini escorted a body of the United States troops to his home +rancho on the peninsula of Lower California, where he gave them cattle +and other food supplies. For this aid to the invaders he was forced to +remove his family from their home there, and on the journey up to San +Diego. Mrs. Bandini made what was probably the first American flag +ever constructed in California. As they neared San Diego the officer in +command discovered that he had neglected to take with him a flag. He did +not wish to enter the settlement without one, and when the matter was +explained to Mrs. Bandini, who was journeying in a carreta with her +maids and children, she offered to supply the need. + +From the handbag on her arm came needle, thimble, thread, and scissors, +and from the clothing of her little ones the necessary red, white, and +blue cloth. Under the direction of the young officer she soon had a +very fair-looking flag, and beneath its folds the party marched into +the town. That night the band of the flagship Congress serenaded Mrs. +Bandini in her San Diego home, and the next day Commodore Stockton +called to thank her in person. The flag, it is said, he sent to +Washington, where it is still to be found with other California +trophies. + +The most severe battle of the war in the state of California was fought +on the San Pasqual rancho in San Diego County. The forces engaged +were those of General Andres Pico, who commanded the Californians, and +General Stephen Kearny, who had marched overland, entered the territory +on the southwest, and was on his way to join Stockton. Hearing that the +country was conquered and the fighting over, the American officer had +sent back about two hundred of his men, but he was afterward reinforced +by Captain Gillespie and fifty men sent by Stockton to meet him. Several +American officers were killed in the battle of San Pasqual, and their +brave commander severely wounded. + +Commodore Stockton, on his march from San Diego to Los Angeles, twice +engaged the enemy, once at the crossing of the San Gabriel River and +once on the Laguna rancho just east of the city. The Californians +behaved with great bravery. All of them were poorly armed, many having +only lances and no fire-arms, and what powder they had was almost +worthless; yet three times they dashed upon the square of steadily +firing United States marines. + +This was the last battle in the territory. The Californians retreated +across the hills to the present site of Pasadena. Here, at the little +adobe house on the banks of the Arroyo Seco, they separated. General +Flores, their commander, was to ride with his staff through the stormy +night, down El Camino Real toward Mexico. General Andres Pico, upon whom +devolved the duty of surrender, was to ride with his associates to the +old Cahuenga ranch house, the first station on the highway from Los +Angeles to Santa Barbara. There he met Captain Fremont, and the treaty +was signed which closed hostilities. The terms proposed by Fremont were +favorable for the Californians and did much to make way for a peaceful +settlement of all difficulties. + + + +Chapter VII + +At the Touch of King Midas + + + +It was by chance that gold was discovered in both northern and southern +California, and by chance that many great fortunes were made. + +Juan Lopez, foreman of the little ranch of St. Francis in Los Angeles +County, one morning in March, 1842, while idly digging up a wild onion, +or brodecia, discovered what he thought lumps of gold clinging to its +roots. Taking samples of the metal, he rode down to Los Angeles to the +office of Don Abel Stearns, who recognized it as gold. + +Soon Juan and his companions were busy digging and washing the earth and +sands in the region where the little wild flowers grew. These mines +were called “placer,” from a Spanish word meaning loose or moving about, +because the metal was loosely mixed with sand and gravel, generally in +the bed of a stream or in a ravine where there had once been a flow of +water which had brought the gold down from its home in the mountains. + +From these mines Don Abel Stearns sent, in a sailing vessel round Cape +Horn, the first parcel of California gold dust ever received at the +United States mint, and it proved to be of very good quality. + +The San Fernando mines, as they were called, because they were on a +ranch that had once belonged to San Fernando mission, yielded many +thousand dollars’ worth of gold dust. It is on record that one firm in +Los Angeles, which handled most of the gold from these and other mines +of southern California, paid out in the course of twenty years over two +million dollars for southern gold. + +The true golden touch, however, was to come in a different part of the +territory among people of another race and tongue. It was to transform +California from an almost unknown land with slight and scattered +population to a community so rich as to disturb the money markets of +the world; a community sheltering a great host of people, all young, all +striving eagerly for the fortunes they had traveled thousands of miles +to find. + +After the signing of the treaty of Cahuenga between Colonel Fremont +and General Pico, the Spanish-speaking people settled down quietly and +peacefully. The only disagreements were between the American leaders, +General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and between Kearny and Fremont, +who had been appointed by Stockton military governor of the territory. +This appointment General Kearny disputed. General Vallejo tells in one +of his letters of having received on the same day communication from +Kearny, Stockton, and Fremont, each signing himself commander-in-chief. + +Whoever was right in the quarrel, Fremont was the chief sufferer, for +General Kearny, after Stockton left, ordered him to return East under +arrest and at Washington to undergo a military trial or court-martial +for mutiny and disobedience of orders. Although the court found him +guilty and sentenced him to be dismissed from the army, the President, +remembering his services in the exploration of the West, and quite +possibly thinking him not the person most to blame, pardoned and +restored him to his position. Fremont, feeling that he had done nothing +wrong, refused the pardon and resigned from the army. The next year the +new President, Taylor, showed his opinion of the matter by appointing +Fremont to conduct the important work of establishing the boundaries +between the United States and Mexico. + +General Kearny, when he departed for the East, left Colonel Mason, of +the regular army, as military governor of California. Mason chose as +his adjutant, or secretary, a young lieutenant named Sherman, who, years +later, in the Civil War, by his wonderful march through the heart of the +South, came to be considered one of the greatest generals of his time. + +Soon after the Mexican war many settlers were gathered about Sutter’s +Fort and San Francisco Bay. There were about two thousand Americans, +most of them strong, hardy men, all overjoyed that the territory was in +the hands of the United States and all eager to know what would +finally be decided in regard to it. Reports kept arriving of parties of +emigrants that were about to start overland for California. + +“They are as certain to come as that the sun will rise to-morrow,” said +genial Captain Sutter, “and as the overland trail ends at my rancho, I +must be ready to furnish them provisions. They are always hungry when +they get there, especially the tired little children, and the only thing +for me to do is to build a flour mill to grind my grain.” + +“Well and good,” said James Marshall, one of his assistants, an American +by birth, a millwright by trade; “but to build a flour mill requires +lumber, and lumber calls for a sawmill.” + +“We will build it, too,” said Sutter. “Take a man and provisions and go +up toward the mountains; there must be good places on my land. I leave +it all in your hands.” The place was found on a swift mountain stream. +Near the present site of Coloma, in the midst of pine forests, on the +water soon to be so well known as the American River, the sawmill was +located. Marshall also marked out a rough wagon road forty-five miles +long down to the fort. Captain Sutter was delighted. + +“Set to work as soon as you like, Marshall,” he exclaimed. “This is your +business.” Soon the mill was built and almost ready for use. + +“You may let the water into the mill race to-night,” said Marshall to +his men. “I want to test it and also to carry away some of the loose +dirt in the bed.” + +Down came the water with a rush, carrying off before it the loose earth; +all night it ran, leaving the race with a clean, smooth bed. The next +day, Monday, January 24, 1848,--wonderful day for California--James +Marshall went out to look at the mill race to see if everything was +ready to begin work. + +“To-morrow,” thought he, “we will commence sawing, and put things +through as fast as possible. The men are waiting, we have plenty of +trees down, there is nothing to hinder;” but at that moment as he walked +beside the bed of the tail race he saw some glittering yellow particles +among its sands. He stopped and picked one up. The golden touch had +come. + +The following is Marshall’s own description as published in the Century +Magazine (Vol. 41). “It made my heart thump, for I was certain it was +gold. Yet it did not seem to be of the right color; all the gold coin I +had seen was of a reddish tinge; this looked more like brass. I recalled +to mind all the metals I had seen or heard of, but I could find none +that resembled this. Suddenly the idea flashed across my mind that it +might be iron pyrites. I trembled to think of it.” + +Finally, to make sure, Marshall, like Juan Lopez, mounted his horse and +rode away to find some one with more knowledge than himself. That some +one was Captain Sutter, who looked in his encyclopedia, probably the +only one in the territory at that time, and by comparing the weight of +the metal with the weight of an equal bulk of water found its specific +gravity, which proved it to be gold. Still Sutter thought that he should +like better authority. General Sherman, in Memoirs, tells how the +news came to Monterey, where, he was the governor’s gay young military +secretary:-- + +“I remember one day, in the spring of 1848, that two men, Americans, +came into the office and inquired for the Governor. I asked their +business, and one answered that they had just come down from Captain +Sutter on special business and they wanted to see Governor Mason in +person. I took them in to the colonel and left them together. After some +time the colonel came to his door and called to me. I went in and my +attention was directed to a series of papers unfolded on his table, in +which lay about half an ounce of placer gold. + +“Mason said tome, ‘What is that?’ I touched it and examined one or two +of the larger pieces and asked, ‘Is it gold?’ I said that if that were +gold it could be easily tested, first by its malleability and next by +acids. I took a piece in my teeth and the metallic lustre was perfect. I +then called to the clerk, Baden, to bring in an ax and hatchet from the +backyard. When these were brought, I took the largest piece and beat +it out flat, and beyond doubt it was metal and a pure metal. Still we +attached little importance to the fact, for gold was known to exist at +San Fernando at the south and yet was not considered of much value.” + +About this time some of the business men who had settled in the little +town of Yerba Buena, finding that all ships that entered the harbor were +sent by their owners not to Yerba Buena, of which they knew nothing, but +to San Francisco, persuaded the town council to change the name of the +settlement from Yerba Buena to San Francisco, which was already the name +of the mission and presidio. + +“Gold! Gold!! Gold!!! from the American River,” cried a horseman from +the mines, riding down Market Street, waving his hat in one hand, a +bottle of gold dust in the other. + +When words like these dropped from the lips of a messenger in any of the +little communities, the result was like a powerful explosion. Everybody +scattered, not wounded and dying, however, but full of life, ready to +endure anything, risk anything, for the sake of finding the precious +metal which enables its owner to have for himself and those he loves the +comfortable and beautiful things of the world. + +The result at San Francisco is thus described in one of its newspapers +of 1848: “Stores are closed, places of business vacated, a number of +houses tenantless, mechanical labor suspended or given up entirely, +nowhere the pleasant hum of industry salutes the ear as of late; but +as if a curse had arrested our onward course of enterprise, everything +wears a desolate, sombre look. All through the Sundays the little church +on the plaza is silent. All through the week the door of the alcalde’s +office remains locked. As for the shipping, it is left at anchor; first +sailors, then officers departing for the mines.” + +And how was it at the logging camp where Marshall made his great +discovery? The new sawmill, built with such high hopes, was soon silent +and deserted. No more logs were cut, and no lumber hauled down for the +flour mill. There were no men to be found who were willing to cut and +saw logs, build mills, or put in the spring wheat when they might be +finding their fortunes at the mines. + +The newly arrived emigrants suffered no doubt from hunger; maybe the +children cried for bread; but most of the men, as soon as they had +rested a little and knew what was going on, got together money enough +to buy the simple implements of knife, pan, pick, and cradle, which were +all the tools necessary for the easy placer mining of those days, and +joined the endless procession of those who were pushing up toward the +streams and canyons round Sutter’s famous sawmill. + +As summer came on, the excitement became intense. Not only from the +region around San Francisco Bay, but from San Diego and Los Angeles, +people came flocking to the mines. Reports were current of men finding +hundreds of dollars’ worth of gold a day, gaining a fortune in a few +weeks. It was almost impossible to hire laborers either in San Francisco +or on the ranches. Even the soldiers caught the gold fever and deserted. + +In the summer, Governor Mason and Lieutenant Sherman visited the mines. +Upon their return to Monterey, having seen for themselves that many even +of the wildest rumors were true, they made arrangements to send on to +Washington official announcement of the discovery. + +How this was accomplished is interesting. A lieutenant of the army was +appointed by the governor for the important office, and a can of sample +gold was purchased. + +The only vessel on the coast ready for departure was a boat bound +for Peru. On this ship the lieutenant with his pot of gold and the +governor’s report embarked at Monterey. He reached the Peruvian port +just in time to catch the British steamer back to Panama. Crossing the +Isthmus on horseback, he took a steamer for Kingston, Jamaica. There he +found a vessel just leaving for New Orleans. Reaching that city he at +once telegraphed the news to Washington, trusting it would be in time to +form part of the President’s message. + +On December 5, 1848, the President, in his message to Congress, after +speaking of the discovery of gold in California, said, “The accounts +of the abundance of gold in that territory are of such extraordinary +character as would scarcely command belief but for the authentic reports +of officers in the public service who have visited the mineral districts +and drew the facts which they detail from personal observation.” + +The certainty that the wonderful reports of the gold country were true, +electrified not only the whole country but the whole civilized world. +Large numbers of people began immediate preparation for making the +overland journey as soon as the weather should permit; while others, too +impatient to wait, left for California by the way of the Isthmus. + +In February, 1849, there arrived at Monterey the Panama, the first +steamboat to visit the coast. The whole population turned out to see +and welcome it. The Californians as they compared it with the stately +frigates and ships they had been accustomed to see, exclaimed, “How +ugly!” Although it was not a beautiful vessel, its arrival was an event +of great importance, for it was the first of a line of steamers which +were under contract to ply monthly between San Francisco and Panama, and +with its coming began such an immigration as the world has seldom known. + +In 1849 nearly twenty-five thousand people came by land and almost as +many more by sea, from the States alone. There were between thirty and +forty thousand from other parts of the world. + +San Francisco at the time of the discovery had about seven hundred +inhabitants, and shortly after only the population of a hamlet, because +so many had gone to the gold fields. Now it suddenly found itself called +upon to give shelter to thousands of people bound for the mines, and +many also returning, some successful, others penniless and eager to get +work at the very high wages offered, sometimes as much as thirty dollars +a day. + +There were streets to be surveyed, houses and warehouses to be built, +lumber and brick to be provided. People were living in tents, in brush +houses, even in shelter made by four upright green poles over which were +spread matting and old bedding. Hundreds of ships lay helpless in the +harbor waiting for crews, often for men to unload the cargoes. No longer +could the papers complain of lack of business. The town was like a hive, +but such a disorderly one as would have driven wild any colony of bees. + +All was mud flats or water where are now the water front and some of +the leading business streets of the city. On these flats old unseaworthy +vessels were drawn up and did duty side by side with rough board +buildings as dwellings and stores. In the rainy seasons the streets were +lakes of mud where mules and drays were sometimes literally submerged. +The arrival of the mail steamer was the event of the month to this host +of people so far away from home and loved ones. Guns were fired, bells +rang to announce the approach of the vessel, then there was a wild rush +to the post office, where the long lines of men, most of them wearing +flannel shirts, wide hats, and high boots, extended far down the street. +Very high prices were sometimes paid, as high even as one hundred +dollars, by a late corner to buy from some one lucky enough to be near +the head of the line a position near the delivery window. Then if no +letter came, how great was the disappointment! + +One man thus described the mines:-- + +“I was but a lad and my party took me along only because I had a knack +at cooking and was willing to do anything in order to see the place +where such wonderful fortunes were made. It was a hot summer afternoon +when, crossing a region of low, thinly wooded hills, we looked down upon +American River; away to the east were high mountain ranges, their peaks, +although it was still August, snow-tipped. + +“From them came swiftly down the already famous river. Its volume was +evidently diminished from the heat, and along its gravelly bed men were +digging the sand and gravel into buckets. As I reached them and watched +them work I was greatly disappointed. It seemed like very ordinary dirt +they were handling; I saw no gleam of the yellow sands of which I had +heard such stories. I followed one of the men who carried the buckets +of earth to something that looked very like our family cradle with the +footboard knocked out. Where the slats might have been there was nailed +a piece of sheet iron punched full of holes. Above this was a chute in +which the dirt was emptied. The cradle was then rocked violently while +water was poured over its contents. The lighter earth and gravel were +carried away, while the gold, being heavier, rested either on the sheet +iron or between the slats on the cradle bottom. + +“Some of the men had no cradle, only a large pan made of sheet iron. +This pan, when half filled with dirt, was sunk in the water and shaken +sidewise until the dirt and gravel were washed away and only heavy +grains of gold remained. There were enough of these to make my eyes +open wide. The men who had the cradle were making pretty steadily from +eighteen to twenty dollars a day apiece. + +“After a day or two I visited the dry diggings. Here I saw things that +were more astonishing to me than anything that I had seen at the placer +mines. Some men were at work in a little canyon, and I sat on the +bowlder and watched them digging into the earth with their knives and +picking up every few minutes spoons of earth in which there were plainly +visible little lumps of gold the size of a pea. This was considered a +rich find; the men were joyful over their success. Suddenly one of the +older ones, looking up at me, sang out:-- + +“Say, Sonny, why do you sit there idle? Out with that bread knife of +yours and dig for your fortune. Across this ridge is another ravine. It +may be like this. Try your luck, anyway.’ + +“Somehow, until that moment, it had not entered my boyish mind, that I +might join this great mad race for wealth. I sprang to my feet. My heart +began to pound faster than it did on the glorious day when in my boyhood +home I had won the mile race at the county fair. There was a singing +in my ears; for the minute I could scarcely breathe. I had heard of the +gold fever, and now I had caught it. + +“I dashed up the hillside, fairly rolled down into the rocky little +valley beyond, and began to dig wildly; but I found only good honest +earth, rich noble soil so like our fertile bottom lands at home. My +spirits began to sink, my heart to resume its natural beats. I worked +half an hour or so without finding any sign, as it was called, and +began to feel discouraged. In the canyon, which was very narrow, a large +bowlder blocked my progress. I determined to dig it loose. This was the +work of some time, but finally I succeeded in dislodging it, and drawing +up my legs out of its way watched with a youngster’s delight its wild +dash down the mountain side to the stream far below. + +“Slowly I turned to resume my work, but what I saw brought me to my +feet with a yell. The socket where the stone had rested was dotted with +yellow lumps of gold as big as a pea, some even larger. Down I went upon +my knees and I fell to work with a will--the strength of a man seemed in +my arms. Off came my coat, and spreading it out I scooped the rich dirt +into it by the handful. I had happened on a pocket, as it was called; +a turn in the bed of some old mountain stream. The dirt from this when +washed yielded me about five hundred dollars, but it was all except +cook’s wages that I ever made at the mines. + +“Before I left the gold fields I saw some small attempt at hydraulic +mining which later proved so successful. From a stream up in a canyon +some enterprising men had built a log flume and connected with it a +large hose and nozzle they had brought up from the coast. Turning +the water in this on a dry hill rich in gold deposit, they easily and +rapidly washed the dirt down into a sluice or trough below. This had +bars nailed across, and water running through carried the dirt away +while the gold dropped into the crevices between the bars.” This method +of mining and also quartz mining, that is, digging gold and other metals +from rock, is described in another chapter. + +The gold-bearing earth extended along the west slope of the Sierra +Nevada and their base, from Feather River on the north to the Merced +River on the south, a territory about thirty miles wide by two hundred +and fifty long. In this district are still some of the richest mines in +the world. + + + +Chapter VIII + +The Great Stampede + + + +The rush of people to the Pacific coast after the gold discovery may +well be called a stampede. The terrible overland journey, over thousands +of miles of Indian country, across high mountains and wide stretches +of desert, was often undertaken with poor cattle, half the necessary +supplies of food, and but little knowledge of the route. On the other +hand, those who preferred going by water would embark in any vessel, +however unsafe, sailing from Atlantic ports to the Isthmus. + +In New York the excitement was especially great. Every old ship that +could be overhauled and by means of fresh paint made to look seaworthy +was gayly dressed in bunting and advertised to sail by the shortest and +safest route to California. The sea trip is thus described by an elderly +gentleman who made the journey when a boy of ten:-- + +“Together with the news of the discovery of gold came also reports of a +warm, sunny land which winter never visited, where life could be spent +in the open air,--a favorable spot where sickness was almost unknown. +It was, I think, as much on account of my mother’s health as to make his +fortune that my father decided to go to California. The water route was +chosen as being easier for her. + +“The saying good-by to our relatives had been hard; but by the time we +were three miles from home we children ceased to grieve, so interested +were we in new sights and experiences. + +“I had never seen salt water until that morning in New York, when we +boarded the gayly trimmed brig, the Jane Dawson, which was to carry us +to the Isthmus. To my sister and myself it was a real grief that our +vessel had not a more romantic name. We decided to call it the Sea +Slipper, from a favorite story, and the Sea Slipper it has always been +to us. + +“On the deck there were so many unhappy partings that we became again +downhearted, a feeling which was intensified in the choppy seas of the +outer bay to the utter misery of mind and body. We got ourselves somehow +into our berths, where, with mother for company, we remained for many +hours. Finally the sea grew calmer and we were just beginning to enjoy +ourselves when off Cape Hatteras a severe storm broke upon us. The +vessel pitched and rolled; the baggage and boxes of freight tumbled +about, threatening the lives of those who were not kept to their berths +by illness. + +“Although I was not seasick I dared not go about much. One night, +however, growing tired of the misery around me, I crawled over to the +end of the farther cabin, which seemed to be deserted. Presently the +captain and my father came down the stairs and I heard the officer say +in a hoarse whisper. ‘I will not deceive you, Mr. Hunt; the mainmast is +down, the steering gear useless, the crew is not up to its business, +and I fear we cannot weather the night!’ I almost screamed aloud in my +fright, but just then a long, lanky figure rose from the floor where it +had been lying. It was one of the passengers, a typical Yankee. + +“‘See here, captain,’ he said, ‘my chum and I are ship carpenters, +and the other man of our party is one of the best sailors of the +Newfoundland fleet; just give us a chance to help you, and maybe we +needn’t founder yet awhile.’ The chance was given, and we did not +founder. + +“Some days later we anchored in the harbor of Chagres. There were many +vessels in the bay, and a large number of people waiting to secure +passage across the Isthmus. They crowded around the landing place of the +river canoes and fought and shouted until we children were frightened +at the uproar, and taking our hands mother retired to the shade of some +trees to wait. + +“It was almost night when father called to us to come quickly, as he had +a boat engaged for us. It lay at the landing, a long canoe, in one end +of which our things were already stored. Some men who were friends of +father’s and had joined our party stood beside it with revolvers in +hand watching to see that no one claimed the canoe or coaxed the boatmen +away. Mother and Sue were quickly tucked beneath the awning, the rest +of us tumbled in where we could, and at once our six nearly naked negro +boatmen pushed out the boat and began working it up the stream by means +of long poles which they placed on the bottom of the river bed, thus +propelling us along briskly but with what seemed to me great exertion. + +“To us children the voyage was most interesting. On either side the +banks were covered with such immense trees as we had never dreamed of. +The ferns were more like trees than plants, and the colors of leaves +and flowers so gorgeous they were dazzling. The fruits were many and +delicious, but our father was very careful about our eating, and would +not allow us to indulge as we desired. + +“The night came on as suddenly as though a great bowl had been turned +over us. For an hour or more we watched with delight the brilliant +fireflies illuminating all the atmosphere except at the end of the boat, +where the red light of a torch lit the scene. After we had lain down for +the night the moon rose and I could not enough admire the beauty of the +tropical foliage, with the silvery moonlight incrusting every branch and +leaf. + +“The second day we left the boats and took mules for the rest of the +journey. To my delight I was allowed an animal all to myself. Sue rode +in a chair strapped to the back of a native, and our luggage was taken +in the same manner, the porters carrying such heavy loads that it did +not seem possible they could make the journey. + +“To my sister and me, the city of Panama was amazingly beautiful, with +its pearl oyster shells glittering on steeple and bell tower, and the +dress of the people as magnificent as the costumes described in the +‘Arabian Nights.’ In Panama we waited a long time for a steamer. The +town was crowded and many people were ill. My mother was constantly +helping some one until my father forbade her to visit any stranger, +because cholera had broken out and many were dying. + +“It was a joyful morning when we boarded the steamer California, steamed +out on the blue Pacific, and headed northward. We had more comfortable +quarters and better food than when on the Atlantic; but never on the +steamer did we feel the sense of grandeur and power that came to us on +the brig when, with white sails all set, she rushed like a bird before +the wind. + +“Toward the close of the voyage there was so much fog that our captain +did not know just whereabouts we were, and for that reason kept well out +to sea. One morning there came a rap at the stateroom door, and a loud +voice cried, ‘Wake up, we shall be in San Francisco in less than an +hour.’ What a time of bustle followed! The sea was rough. Sue and I +fell over each other and the valises in our eagerness to get dressed. I, +being a boy, was out first. The sun was shining as though it was making +up for the days it was hidden from us. The water was blue and sparkling, +the air warm and delightful after the cold, foggy weather. + +“We were steaming due east, and almost before I knew it we had passed +through Golden Gate and were in the quiet water of the bay. By the time +mother and Sue were on deck, we were nearing the wharf. I thought then +that San Francisco was rather disappointing in its looks, with its +unpainted houses of all kinds of architecture, and the streets like +washouts in the hills, but soon I learned to love it with a faithfulness +which was felt by many of the pioneers and will end only with life.” + +Such were some of the hardships and discomforts endured by those +who traveled to California by water during the period of the gold +excitement. Yet those who made the journey by land often suffered even +more. + +The first immigrant train to California started in 1841. + +It brought among its members a young man named Bidwell, afterward United +States representative from California. Describing this journey in the +Century Magazine (Vol. 41), Mr. Bidwell says:-- + +“The party consisted of sixty-nine persons. Each one furnished his own +supplies of not less than a barrel of flour, sugar, and other rations in +proportion. I doubt whether there was a hundred dollars in money in the +whole party, but all were anxious to go. + +“Our ignorance of the route was complete. We knew that California lay +west, and that was all. Some of the maps consulted and supposed to be +correct showed a lake in the vicinity of where we now know Salt Lake to +be, that was three or four hundred miles in length, with two outlets, +both running into the Pacific Ocean, either apparently larger than the +Mississippi River. We were advised to take along tools to make canoes, +so that if we found the country too rough for our wagons, we could +descend one of these rivers to the Pacific.” It was two years later that +Fremont, the pathfinder and roadmaker of the West, surveyed the great +Salt Lake and made a map of it. The Bidwell party after many hardships +reached California in safety. + +The unhappy Donner party, also home seekers, made the journey in 1848. +They lost their way and became snow-bound in the mountains. A number of +them died from cold and starvation, but the remainder were rescued by +relief parties sent out from Sutter’s Fort. Their sufferings were +too terrible to be told, and yet they started with fair hopes and as +excellent an outfit as any party that ever crossed the plains. The +following is from an account of the journey written by one of their +number for the Century Magazine (Vol. 42):-- + +“I was a child,” says Virginia Reed Murphy, “when we started for +California, yet I remember the journey well. Our wagons were all made to +order, and I can say truthfully that nothing like the Reed family wagon +ever started across the plains. The entrance was on the side, and one +stepped into a small space like a room, in the center of the wagon. On +the right and left were comfortable spring seats, and here was also a +little stove whose pipe, which ran through the top of the wagon, was +prevented by a circle of tin from setting fire to the canvas. A board +about a foot wide extended over the wheels on either side, the full +length of the wagon, thus forming the foundation of a large roomy +second story on which were placed our beds; under the spring seats were +compartments where we stored the many things useful for such a journey. +Besides this we had two wagons with provisions. + +“The family wagon was drawn by four yoke of choice oxen, the others by +three yoke. Then we had saddle horses and cows, and last of all my pony. +He was a beauty, and his name was Billy. The chief pleasure to which I +looked forward in crossing the plains was to ride on my pony every day. +But a day came when I had no pony to ride, for the poor little fellow +gave out. He could not endure the hardships of ceaseless travel. When I +was forced to part with him, I cried as I sat in the back of the wagon +watching him become smaller and smaller as we drove on until I could not +see him any more. But this grief did not come to me until I had enjoyed +many happy weeks with my pet. + +“Never can I forget the morning when we bade farewell to our kindred and +friends. My father, with tears in his eyes, tried to smile as one +friend after another grasped his hand in a last farewell. My mother +was overcome with grief. At last we were all in the wagon, the drivers +cracked their whips, the oxen moved slowly forward, the long journey had +begun. + +“The first Indians we met were the Caws, who kept the ferry and had to +take us over the Caw River. I watched them closely, hardly daring to +draw my breath, feeling sure that they would sink the boat in the middle +of the stream, and very thankful I was when I found that they were not +like the Indians in grandmamma’s stories. + +“When we reached the Blue River, Kansas, the water was so high that +the men made rafts of logs twenty-five feet in length, united by cross +timbers. Ropes were attached to both ends and by these the rafts +were pulled back and forth. The banks of the stream being steep, our +heavy-laden wagons had to be let down carefully with ropes so that the +wheels might run into the hollow between the logs. This was a dangerous +task, for in the wagons were the women and children, who could cross the +rapid stream in no other way. + +“After striking the great valley of the Platte the road was good, the +country beautiful. Stretching out before us as far as the eye could +reach was a valley as green as emerald, dotted here and there with +flowers of every imaginable color. Here flowed the grand old Platte--a +wide, shallow stream. This part of our journey was an ideal pleasure +trip. How I enjoyed riding my pony, galloping over the plain gathering +wild flowers! At night the young folks would gather about the camp +fire chattering merrily, and often a song would be heard or some clever +dancer would give us a jig on the hind door of a wagon. + +“In the evening, when we rode into camp, our wagons were placed so as +to form a circle or corral, into which, after they had been allowed to +graze, the cattle were driven to prevent the Indians from stealing them. +The camp fire and the tents were placed on the outside of this square. +There were many expert riflemen in the party, and we never lacked game. +I witnessed many a buffalo hunt and more than once was in the chase +close behind my father. For weeks buffalo and antelope steaks were the +main article on our bill of fare, and our appetites were a marvel.” The +Reed family was the only one belonging to the Donner party, it is said, +who made the terrible journey without losing a member. + +To the young people and men there was often much pleasure in crossing +the continent in a prairie schooner, as the white-covered emigrant wagon +was called; but to the women it was another matter, since they had to +ride constantly in a wagon, attend to the little children, and do the +cooking, often under great difficulties. Many of them learned to be +experts in camp cooking, requiring nothing more than a little hollow +in the hard ground for a range; or if there were plenty of stones, the +cooking place might be built up a little. Over this simple contrivance, +with the aid of a couple of iron crossbars, a kettle, a frying pan, and +coffee pot, many a delicious meal was easily and quickly prepared. + +Mrs. Hecox, in the Overland Monthly, says: “I am sure the men never +realized how hard a time the women had. Of course the men worked hard +too, but after their day’s travel was over they sat around the camp +fire, smoked, and told stories, while the women were tending the +children, mending clothes, and making ready for the next day’s meals. + +“After we crossed the Mississippi, it commenced raining, and for days we +splashed through the mud and slush. When we camped at night, we had +to wade about and make some kind of shelter for our fires, and I was +obliged to keep the children cooped up in the wagons. Here let me say +that I never heard an unkind word spoken among the women all the way +across the plain. The children were good, too, and never out of humor +either, unless some cross man scolded them. + +“At one place a drove of buffalo ran into our train and gave us a bad +scare. I was in the wagon behind ours attending a sick woman when I +saw the drove coming. I knew the children would be frightened to death +without me, so I jumped from the wagon and ran, but I was too late. +Finding that I had no time to get into the wagon, I crawled under it, +where a wounded buffalo cow tried to follow me. I kicked her in the head +as I clung to the coupling pole, and somehow broke my collar bone.” + +As soon as the grass began to get green in the spring of 1849, after +the news of the discovery of gold reached the States, the overland march +began. In white-covered emigrant wagons, in carts, on horses, mules, +even on foot, came the eager gold seekers. How poorly prepared were +many of them, it would be hard to believe. They were a brave and hardy +company of people, but they suffered much. It is estimated that at least +eight or ten thousand of the young, strong men died before the year was +over. Many of these deaths were due to overwork and exposure, to the +lack of the necessaries of life at the mines, also to the fact that +a great many of the gold seekers were clever, educated people, quite +unused to extreme poverty, and therefore lacking in the strength that +comes from self-denial. + +Those who remained formed the best material for the making of the state. +To this class belonged those who endowed the two great universities +which are now the glory of California. For many years the highest +position in public life was held by men who came to the Golden State +over the plains or by the uncomfortable ocean route in the days of ‘49. + + + +Chapter IX + +The Birth of the Golden Baby + + + +The birth of the Golden Baby, in other words, the coming of the Golden +State into the Union, was a time of struggle and uncertainty, +when feelings were deeply stirred and hope deferred caused bitter +disappointment. When the treaty of peace with Mexico was ratified by +Congress it left the Pacific coast settlements in a strange position--a +territory containing thousands of people, with more coming by hundreds, +but with no legally appointed rulers. + +As soon as Congress accepted the treaty, the military governor ceased to +have any power, for there was then no longer a state of war; yet he was +still obeyed by courtesy, until some one with a better right took his +place. The only other official was the local alcalde of each community. +This was a Mexican office, but was at that time often filled by an +American who had, perhaps, been in the territory only a few months and +knew nothing of Mexican laws, but ran things as well as he could after +the Eastern fashion. + +The Rev. Mr. Colton, chaplain of the warship Congress, was made alcalde +of Monterey, and his book on those times is most interesting. + +“My duties,” said he, “are similar to those of the mayor of an Eastern +city, but with no such aid of courts as he enjoys. I am supreme in every +breach of peace, case of crime, disputed land title, over a space of +three hundred miles. Such an absolute disposal of questions affecting +property and personal liberty never ought to be confided to one man.” + +The country owed much to Mr. Colton’s work while alcalde. He soon gained +the confidence of law-abiding residents, but was a terror to evil doers. +Those he put to work quarrying stone and building the solid structure +afterward named Colton’s Hall. Here one of the first of California’s +schools was opened, and here was held the first convention. + +Perhaps the truth that “as a man sows, so shall he reap,” that a wrong +action is apt to bring its own punishment, was never more plainly shown +than in the Mexican war. The war was brought upon the United States in +a great degree by those interested in slavery, not because they had any +just cause of quarrel with the people of Mexico, but because they wanted +more territory where slaves could be held. + +California, which was the name generally given to all the country +extending from Mexico northward to Oregon and the Louisiana Purchase, +and eastward from the Pacific Ocean to Texas, was what they really +fought for, and when they got it, it became their undoing. When a +commissioner went to Mexico to arrange for peace, he demanded California +for the United States. As is usual, the conquered had to yield to the +victor, and Mexico agreed, “provided the United States would promise not +to permit slavery in the territory thus acquired.” + +“No,” replied Mr. Trist, the American commissioner, “the bare mention +of such a thing is an impossibility. No American president would dare +present such a treaty to the Senate.” + +The Mexican authorities persisted, saying the prospect of the +introduction of slavery into a territory gained from them excited the +strongest feelings of abhorrence in the hearts of the Mexican people, +but the American commissioner made no promise. + +In the summer of 1848 the President, in a special message, called +the attention of Congress to California and asked that the laws of a +territory be granted to it. The South agreed, provided half should +be slave territory. The Northern people, who disliked slavery, had +no commercial interest in it, and felt it a disgrace to the nation, +resisted this demand. Then began a bitter struggle over California and +the question of slavery on her soil, which lasted for two years and +called forth some of the grandest speeches of those mighty leaders, +Webster, Clay, and Calhoun. + +In 1849, while this fight in Congress was still going on, an amendment +to tax California for revenue, and another which would result in making +her a slave state, were added to the regular appropriation bill which +provided for the expenses of government and without which the government +would stop. Congress was supposed to close its session on Saturday, +March 3d, at midnight. The new President, Taylor, was to take office on +Monday. + +There had been many times of excitement in that Senate chamber, but this +night, it is said by those who were present, was equal to any. Such a +war of words and a battle of great minds! Many eyes were turned to the +clock as it drew near the hour of midnight. Would the stroke of twelve +dissolve the meeting and the great government of the United States be +left without funds? + +To many of the senators this seemed a certainty, but Mr. Webster +insisted that Congress could not end while they remained in session. +So, through the long night, the struggle went on. About four o’clock +the amendment in regard to slavery was withdrawn, and the bill for the +government money was passed. + +Meantime the American settlers in California were extremely +dissatisfied. To be living without suitable laws was an unnatural and +dangerous state of affairs which could not be tolerated by men who loved +their country and their homes. The Spanish Californians, also, were +anxious to know what they had to expect from the laws of the United +States. At last it was decided by the people, and agreed to by the +military governor, Riley, who was a man of good judgment, that +delegates should be chosen to a convention which should arrange a state +constitution and government. It was determined, however, to wait for +word from Congress, which had closed in such tumult. + +News would certainly arrive by the next steamer, the Panama, which was +long overdue. It was a favorite amusement in those days for the boys of +San Francisco to go upon the hill and watch for her coming. The 4th of +June they were rewarded by the sight of her. As she came into harbor a +large part of the population hurried to the wharf, eager to learn the +action of Congress. Was California to be a state or not? + +The disappointment was great when it was found that nothing had been +done except to pass the revenue laws, which meant taxation without +representation. In the plaza and on the streets the crowds were loud in +their disapproval. The excitement was almost as great as in Boston, so +long before, when the news of the tax on tea arrived. A mass meeting was +called. + +“It is plain they expect us to settle the slavery question for +ourselves,” said one. “We can do it in short order,” said another. + +Monday, September 3, 1849, the constitutional convention met at +Monterey. + +“Recognizing the fact that there is need of more than human wisdom, in +the work of founding a state under the unprecedented condition of the +country,” says the minutes of that meeting, “the delegates voted to open +the session with prayer.” It was decided to begin each morning’s work +in this way, the Rev. S. H. Willey and Padre Ramirez officiating +alternately. + +There were present forty-eight delegates, seven of whom were Spanish +Californians. Of these Carrillo of the south and General Vallejo of +Sonoma were prominent. They were able men, who were used to governing +and who understood fairly well the needs of the times. Later, in the +United States Senate, Mr. Webster quoted Mr. Carrillo of “San Angeles,” + as he called it. Another delegate, Dr. Gwin, was a Southern man who had +recently come to California for the purpose of gaining the position of +United States senator and of so planning things that even though the +state should be admitted as free soil, it might later be divided and +part be made slave territory. + +He depended for this upon the boundaries. If the whole great section was +admitted as California, he thought division would surely follow with +the southern part for slavery. The people, however, showed themselves +opposed to slavery in their new state, and Dr. Gwin soon found that he +must either forego his hopes of becoming senator or give way on this +point. The constitution finally adopted was that of a free state with +its boundaries as they are to-day. The new legislature chose Colonel +Fremont and Dr. Gwin senators, and they left in January, 1850, for +Washington, taking the new constitution to offer it for the approval of +Congress. + +While the people of the Pacific coast had been making their +constitution, Congress was in session, and the subject of California and +slavery was still troubling the nation. The discussion grew so bitter +that in January Clay brought forward his famous Omnibus Bill, so called +because it was intended to accommodate different people and parties, and +contained many measures which he thought would be so satisfactory to +the senators that they would pass the whole bill, although part of it +provided for the admission of California as a free state. + +At once Southerners sprang forward to resist the measure. They realized +keenly that slavery could not hold its own if the majority of the +country became free soil. They must persist in their demand for more +slave territory, or give up their bondmen. Calhoun, the great advocate +of slavery, who was at that time ill and near his death, prepared a +speech, the last utterance of that brilliant mind, which was delivered +March 4th. He was too ill to read it, but sat, gaunt and haggard, +with burning eyes, while his friend spoke for him. It closed with the +declaration that the admission of California as a slave or a free state +was the test which would prove whether the Union should continue to +exist or be broken up by secession. If she came in free, then the South +could do no less than secede. + +Three days later, March 7th, Webster delivered one of the great speeches +of his life. In it he said, “The law of nature, physical geography, and +the formation of the earth settles forever that slavery cannot exist in +California.” + +Seward followed with a speech mighty in its eloquence. He said: +“California, rich and populous, is here asking admission to the Union +and finds us debating the dissolution of the Union itself. It seems to +me that the perpetual unity of the empire hangs on this day and hour. +Try not the temper and fidelity of California, nor will she abide +delay. I shall vote for the admission of California directly, without +conditions, without qualifications, and without compromise.” + +On September 9, 1850, California was at last admitted. + +From that time the country advanced steadily onward to the terrible +period of 1861, when the South put her threat into execution. The Civil +War followed, and the abolition of slavery; but from the sorrowful +struggle there arose a better and happier nation, a united North +and South. There are two things to be remembered: that into the new +territory gained from Mexico slavery never entered; and that the wealth +which came from the mines of California did much toward strengthening +the North in the conflict. + +Over half a year the Californians had been waiting for their +constitution to be adopted, and for their representatives to be received +in Congress. Sometimes it seemed as though the good news would never +come. + +One October morning word came down from the lookout on Telegraph +Hill: “The Oregon is coming in covered with bunting. All her flags are +flying.” Almost at the same moment throughout the city could be heard +the quick booming of her guns as she entered the harbor. With shouts +and clapping of hands the people rushed to the wharf. Tears were pouring +down the faces of men who did not know what it was to cry; women were +sobbing and laughing by turns. The shrill cheers of the California +boys rose high above all. There was the report of guns, the cracking of +pistols, the joyful pealing of bells. New York papers sold readily at +five dollars each. No more business that day. Joy and gayety reigned. At +night the city was ablaze with fireworks and mighty bonfires, which the +boys kept going until morning. + +Messengers started in every direction to carry the news. The way the +word came to San Jose was exciting. The new governor, Peter Burnett, was +in San Francisco on steamer day. On the very next morning he left for +San Jose on the stage coach of Crandall, one of the famous drivers of +the West. The stage of a rival line left at the same time. There was +great excitement: a race between two six-horse teams, with coaches +decorated with flags, and the governor on the box of one of them. + +They had to creep through the heavy sands to the mission, but beyond +there they struck the hard road, and away they went, horses at a gallop, +passengers shouting and singing. As they passed through a town or by a +ranch house people ran out, aroused by the hubbub. Off went the hats of +all on the coaches. + +“California has been admitted to the Union!” some one would shout in his +loudest voice, and, looking back, they would see men shaking hands and +tossing hats on high, and small boys jigging while shouts and cheers +followed them faintly as they disappeared in the distance. + +Past San Bruno, San Mateo, Mayfield, they went with a rush, then swept +through Santa Clara, then at a gallop down the beautiful Alameda to San +Jose, the governor’s coach but three minutes in advance of its rival. + +A few days later there was the grand ceremony of admission day, which +was described in the papers not only of this country but of England as +well. + +Still, after the rejoicing came a time of anxiety and sorrow. In its +treatment of the land question in California the United States made one +of the gravest mistakes ever made by a civilized nation. + +The man whom the government sent out to investigate the subject, W. C. +Jones, was an able Spanish scholar, skilled in Mexican and Spanish law, +and his carefully prepared report declared that the greater part of the +rancheros had perfect title to their lands, and all that was necessary +for the United States to do was to have them resurveyed. + +In Congress, Senator Benton and Senator Fremont in most points supported +this report as the only just plan. Against the bill that was finally +passed Senator Benton protested vigorously, saying that it amounted +to confiscation of the land instead of the protection promised by the +American government, through Larkin and Sloat. + +This law made it necessary for every Californian, no matter how long he +had lived on his land, to prove his title to it, and that, too, while +the United States attorney resisted his claim inch by inch, as if he +were a criminal. + +Thus the Spanish American, who was seldom a man of business after +the standard of the Eastern states, was forced into the distressing +necessity of fighting for what was his own, in courts, the law and +language of which he did not understand. Meantime his property was +rendered hard to sell, while taxation fell heaviest upon him because he +was a large land owner. Often, too, he would have to pay his lawyer in +notes, promising to give money when he could get it, and in the end the +lawyer often got most of the land which the United States government had +left to the unhappy Californian. + +The way in which unprincipled men got the better of the rancheros would +fill a volume. Guadalupe Vallejo, in the Century Magazine (Vol. 41), +tells how a leading American squatter came to her father and said:-- + +“There is a large piece of your land where the cattle run loose, and +your vaqueros are all gone to the mines. I will fence the field at my +own expense if you will give me half of it.” Vallejo agreed, but when +the American had inclosed it, he entered it on the record books as +government land and kept it all. + +This article also describes the losses of the ranchmen from cattle +stealing. It tells how Americans, who were afterward prosperous +citizens, were guilty of selling Spanish beef which they knew had been +stolen. + +The life of the Spanish-speaking people at the mines was made miserable. +The American miners seemed to feel that the Californian had no right +to be there. Of course there were some of the lower class, many of whom +were part Indian, who would lie, steal, or, if they had an opportunity, +murder; but often those who were persecuted were not of this type. +A woman of refinement, who under the title of “Shirley” wrote her +experiences at the mines, says:-- + +“The people of the Spanish race on Indian Bar, many of whom are highly +educated gentlemen, are disposed to bear an ill opinion of our whole +nation on account of the rough men here. They think that it is a +great characteristic of Columbia’s children to be prejudiced, selfish, +avaricious, and unjust.” + +Because in a quarrel a Mexican killed a drunken miner, the men of the +Bar determined to drive away all Californians. They captured several, +not the guilty one, banished some, and two they sentenced to be flogged. +Shirley from her cabin heard what was going on. She tells how one of +them, a gentlemanly young Spaniard, begged in vain to be killed rather +than be disgraced by whipping. When, finally, he was released, he swore +eternal vengeance against the American race. + +In San Francisco the disorderly state of affairs caused by the host +of criminals gathered there from all over the world, attracted by the +discovery of gold, became unendurable. On the city streets robbery and +murder were of frequent occurrence, no one was safe, and wrongdoers went +unpunished because, frequently, the officers of the law were in league +with them. At last the best citizens felt that for the sake of their +homes and families they must take matters into their own hands, so they +formed an association, seven thousand strong, which was known as the +“Vigilantes.” + +Those who committed crimes were taken by this organization, and, after +careful trial, punished. Several of the worst offenders were executed, +many were banished from the country, and unjust officials were removed. +When law and order were restored, the Vigilantes disbanded. + +The example of San Francisco was followed in various parts of the state, +especially in the mining camps, where there were many crimes; but not +all the Vigilantes displayed the same care and fairness as the people of +the larger city, and sometimes terrible mistakes were made, and innocent +people suffered. + +With thousands of newcomers on the Pacific coast, and the long distance +between them and their homes, it was often of the greatest importance +to get their parcels and mail to them as promptly as possible. For this +reason several express companies were started and did excellent work; +but the mail route called the Pony Express was the most interesting. It +is well described by W. F. Bailey in the Century Magazine (Vol. 56). + +One day in March, 1860, the following advertisement appeared in a St. +Louis paper:-- + +“To San Francisco in eight days. The first carrier of the Pony Express +will leave the Missouri River on Tuesday, April 3d, and will run +regularly weekly hereafter, carrying letter mail only. Telegraph mail +eight days, letters ten days to San Francisco.” + +From St. Joseph, Missouri, the first start was made. A large crowd was +present to see the rider off. The same day, the same hour, the Western +mail started on the thousand-mile ride eastward. There would be ten +riders each way, with horses changed every twenty-five miles. + +Both Sacramento and San Francisco were full of enthusiasm. It was +planned to give the first messenger a rousing reception when he should +arrive from the East. He was received by crowds as he galloped into +Sacramento, and hurried to a swift river steamboat which immediately +started for the Bay. News of his coming was telegraphed ahead, and was +announced from the stages of the San Francisco theaters so that when he +arrived at midnight a large number of people were awaiting him, bands +were playing, and bells were ringing; and a long procession escorted him +to the company’s office. + +In all, there were sixty riders of this express company, all young men, +light in weight, accomplished riders, coolheaded, and absolutely brave. +They were held in high regard by all, and with good reason. Each when he +entered the service signed this pledge:-- + +“I agree not to use profane language, not to get drunk, not to gamble, +not to treat animals cruelly, and not to do anything incompatible with +the conduct of a gentleman.” They also had to swear to be loyal to the +Union. + +The average journey of one man was seventy-five miles, this to be +accomplished in one day, but the men frequently had to double the +distance, and once, when the messenger who was waiting was killed by +Indians, “Buffalo Bill” (Mr. Cody) made the long trip of three hundred +and eighty-four miles, stopping only for meals and to change horses. + +By day and by night, through rain and storm, heat and cold, they rode, +these brave men, one facing east, the other west, alone, always alone, +often chased by Indians, though, owing to their watchfulness and the +superiority of their horses, they were seldom caught. A number were, +however, killed by immigrants, who mistook them for Indians or robbers. + +The great feat of the Pony Express was the delivering of Lincoln’s +inaugural address in 1861. + +With the Southern states claiming to be out of the Union, people were +wild to know what the President would say. To St. Joseph, Missouri, +the address was hurried. Here it was carefully wrapped in oil skin, +consigned to the saddle bags, and amid wild cheers the express was +off. Horses were waiting every ten miles. What a ride was that! “Speed, +speed! faster, faster!” was the cry. Each man tried to do a trifle +better than the last, while the thousands on the Pacific coast seemed to +be straining their ears for the sound of the galloping hoof beats which +brought nearer to them the brave message of the grand new President. And +when the last rider came in, making the final ten miles in thirty-one +minutes, what a cheer went up! + +One thousand nine hundred and fifty miles in one hundred and eighty-five +hours, the message had traveled--at an average of a little more than ten +miles an hour--straight across the continent. + +When we read of the speed-breaking special trains of to-day, let us not +forget what these brave men of the first overland express accomplished +in the days of ‘61. + + + +Chapter X + +The Signal Gun and the Steel Trail + + + +Boom! Boom! Boom! Never in history did the firing of a gun have such +a powerful effect as that which sent the first shot at the flag of the +Union, as it floated over Fort Sumter on that memorable Friday, April +12, 1861. + +Fired at a time when most people were hoping for a peaceful outcome of +the sectional troubles, it astonished the world and stirred the whole +country to its depths. + +Across the dry plains and rugged mountains of the West its echoes seemed +to roll. The startled people of the Pacific coast looked at each other +with anxious, uncertain eyes. No one felt quite sure of his neighbor, +and they were so far from the scene of action that the government could +not help them. They must settle the great question for themselves. Who +was for the Union? Who was against it? + +In Washington the President and his advisers waited with keen anxiety to +learn what wealthy California would do. Senator Gwin had often spoken in +Congress and elsewhere as though it would certainly be one of the states +to secede. He and others had talked too, in a confident way, of the +“Grand Republic of the Pacific” that might be then formed out of the +lands of the Western coast. To lose this rich territory would be a +terrible blow to the Union. + +From the time of California’s admission there had been a constant +endeavor on the part of Southern sympathizers to introduce slavery into +its territory. A large number of politicians, especially those holding +prominent positions, were Southerners, some of whom, like Dr. Gwin, had +come to the Pacific coast for the express purpose of winning either the +new state or some portion of it for the South and slavery. + +They had succeeded in giving it a fugitive slave law that was +particularly evil. Under it a colored man or woman could be seized, +brought before a magistrate, claimed as a slave, and taken back South +without being allowed to testify in his or her own behalf. Neither could +a colored person give testimony in a criminal case against one who was +white. + +Opposed to this strong Southern party one man stood almost alone as the +friend of free labor and free soil. This man was David C. Broderick. For +years he fought the slavery interests inch by inch in San Francisco, in +the state legislature, and finally in the United States Senate. + +When he went to Washington he found the same state of affairs as +in California--President Buchanan yielding to the Southern demands, +Southern members ruling and often terrifying Congress. Broderick at once +joined Stephen A. Douglas in the struggle he was then making for free +soil in Kansas and the territories, and his speeches were clear and +often fierce. + +In reply to a speech from a Carolina senator in regard to the disgrace +of belonging to the working class, Mr. Broderick said (Congressional +Globe, 1857-58), “I represent a state where labor is honorable, where +the judge has left his bench, the doctor and lawyer their offices, the +clergyman his pulpit, for the purpose of delving in the earth, where no +station is so high, no position so great, that its occupant is not proud +to boast that he has labored with his own hands. There is no state +in the Union, no place on earth, where labor is so honored, so well +rewarded, as in California.” Mr. Broderick died in the midst of his +bright career, murdered in a duel by one of the leading members of the +slavery party. + +When he died, those of his fellow-citizens who believed much as he did, +yet had let him fight secession and slavery lone-handed, recognized what +he had done for them--their “brave young senator,” as Seward called him, +who had kept the evil of slavery from their soil. His work, stopped by +the bullet of his enemy, was taken up by the people, and his name became +a rallying cry for the lovers of the Union, of honest labor, and of free +soil. + +News that the war had really begun brought forth the strongest +Union sentiments from many of those who had before been careless +or indifferent. A mass meeting of the people of San Francisco was +held--business was suspended, flags were flying everywhere, while +eager-faced people listened to earnest Union speeches. A few days later +the legislature, by an almost unanimous vote, declared in the strongest +terms for the Union, offering to give any aid the government might +require. No one could longer have any doubt of the loyalty of the state +of California. + +There were certainly many people from the South who were deeply in +sympathy with secession; but these, if honorable men who were able to +fight, hurried east to join the Confederate army, or if they chose to +remain under the protection of the flag, were generally wise enough to +keep their feelings to themselves. + +Some there were, however, who, while they enjoyed the law and order of +the peaceful state, still spoke, plotted, and schemed for secession. To +keep such as these in order it was found necessary to retain most of +the California troops in the state for home defense. Those who did reach +Eastern battlefields fought well and nobly. + +One of San Francisco’s ministers was unwise enough frequently to express +disloyal views in the pulpit, until one Sunday morning he found the +banner he would dishonor floating over his church, and hanging to a post +in front of the door a figure intended to represent himself, with his +name and the word “traitor” pinned to it. The next day he left for +Europe, where he stayed until the close of the war. + +Another minister, Thomas Starr King, was one of the most earnest +supporters of the government. He organized the California division of +the Sanitary Commission for the assistance of sick and wounded soldiers. +Chiefly through his influence California gave over a million and a +half to that cause, which was one third of the whole expenditure of the +Commission. + +In 1862 Leland Stanford became governor. He was devoted to the Union, +always striving to influence his state to give liberally of its wealth +to help the government; and its record in that line was second to none. +“A good leader, energetic and long-headed,” the governor was called; but +no one dreamed that long before he was an old man, he would give for the +cause of education in California the mightiest gift ever bestowed by any +one man for the benefit of humanity. + +During the war, California furnished 16,000 men, two regiments of which +were among the best of the Union cavalry. One regiment of infantry +was composed of trappers and mountaineers, from whom were taken many +“sharpshooters” so famous in assisting the advance of the Northern +troops. + +In the southern part of the state there was a body of volunteers known +as the California Column, also the California Lancers, who, far off +though they were, found enough to do. They drove the Southern forces out +of Arizona and New Mexico, fought the Apache Indians in several battles, +met and defeated the Texas Rangers, and took various military posts in +Texas. + +Great was the excitement in San Francisco when one morning the United +States marshall captured, just as she was leaving the wharf, a schooner +fully fitted out as a privateer. She was filled with armed men, and in +her cabin was a commission signed by Jefferson Davis in the name of the +Confederate States, also a plan for capturing the forts of the harbor, +the Panama mail steamer, then en route north, and a treasure steamer +soon to, sail for Panama. + +In Los Angeles disloyalty was more outspoken and unrebuked by public +opinion. Sometimes the surrounding ranchmen, many of whom were in +sympathy with the South, on the news of a Southern victory would come +into Los Angeles to celebrate with disloyal banners and transparencies. +Living on Main Street there was a Yankee, one of the leading citizens, +who upon such an occasion would take his rifle and, promenading the +flat roof of his wide-spreading adobe, hurl down defiance at the enemy, +calling them “rebels” and “traitors” and defying them to come up +and fight him man to man. But there must have been a feeling of good +fellowship through it all, since no stray bullet was ever sent to put a +stop to the taunts of the fiery old Unionist. + +Some Spanish soldiers of the California Column, however, grew weary of +such open disloyalty, and one night, when off duty, captured two of the +Southern ranchmen and proposed to hang them to the oaks in the pasture +near where the city of Pasadena now stands. The American officers of the +troops, hearing of the affair, hurried out from Los Angeles and begged +their men to give up so disorderly and unsoldier-like an idea. “Yes, +sirs, it is true, all that you say; but they are rebels, they talk too +much; why suffer them to cumber Union ground?” This seemed the only +reply they could obtain; but finally the captives were liberated, though +advised in the future to guard well their tongues and actions. + +The desire for war news from the Eastern states led to the completion +of a telegraph line between the Missouri River and San Francisco, and +on all sides the need of an overland railroad was also being recognized. +Plans for such a road had been frequently presented to Congress, but +straightway slavery entered into the question. The South wanted the +road, but it must be through Southern territory, while the North favored +the middle or northern route; and they could not agree. + +On one such occasion Senator Benton spoke in favor of a line that had +just been surveyed by Captain Fremont. He was told by those who had +other plans that his route was not possible, that only scientific men +could lay out a railroad and determine the most practicable ways and +easiest passes. But Senator Benton’s answer is worth remembering. + +“There is,” said he, “a class of scientific engineers older than +the schools and more unerring than mathematics. They are the wild +animals--the buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, and bear--which traverse the +forest, not by compass, but by an instinct which leads them always the +right way to the lowest passes in the mountains, the shallowest fords in +the rivers, the richest pastures in the forest, the best salt springs, +the shortest practicable route between two distant points. They are the +first engineers to lay out a road; the Indian follows. Hence the buffalo +road becomes the war path. The white hunter follows the same trail in +the pursuit of game; after that the buffalo road becomes the wagon road +of the emigrant, and, lastly, the railroad of the scientific man.” + +Through her senators and representatives California spent several years +in pushing this matter. In vain they called attention to the fact that +the distance from Washington to San Francisco by the way of Cape Horn +was 19,000 miles, or more than the entire distance round the earth in +the latitude of San Francisco; and that by Panama it was as far as from +Washington to Peking in a direct line. + +In 1859-60 there appeared in Washington a young engineer named Judah, +who had been sent by the people of the Pacific coast to urge the +immediate building of the road by the middle route that which was +finally chosen. Mr. Judah knew more about the matter than any other man, +east or west, and he failed in his mission only because the troubles +over slavery and the prospect of immediate secession took up the whole +attention of Congress. + +However, he came back in no way discouraged, and continued to urge the +matter in his cheerful, hopeful way. That he should be hopeful does not +seem strange to us who know that the road was built and that it was a +great success, but then conditions were different. + +“What, build a railroad over those mountains, with their terrible winter +snows and landslides, across the desert, where there is absolutely no +water? It is impossible, and these men know it; they only want to get +the people’s money.” Such was the type of article one might read at any +time in the papers of the day. + +Still, Mr. Judah’s talk had its results. One June day in 1861, Leland +Stanford, a young lawyer, who was at that time Sacramento’s chief +grocer, Mark Hopkins and Collis P. Huntington, hardware merchants, and +Charles Crocker, proprietor of the leading dry-goods store, met and +organized the Central Pacific Railroad Company, with Stanford as +president, Huntington as vice-president, Hopkins as treasurer, Judah as +engineer, and Crocker as one of the directors. + +This action seems sensible enough as we write of it, but it was one of +the most daring undertakings ever attempted by any body of men. None of +the four was rich, all had worked hard for the little they had; but they +felt that the country must have the railroad, that without it California +could never become a great state. But if they could only push forward, +as soon as they had themselves accomplished something, help would come +to them from the East and their success would be assured. + +Again Mr. Judah went to Washington, and this time he was successful. The +war had made the government feel the need of the railway, not only to +bind the Pacific coast closer to the eastern half of the continent, but +to transport troops to defend its western shores. There were many now +ready to vote for the road, and in July, 1862, the bill, having been +passed by both houses, was signed by Abraham Lincoln. + +It provided for the building of two roads, one from the Missouri River +westward, the Union Pacific, and one from the Pacific coast eastward, +the Central Pacific, the two to be continued till they met and formed +one long line. + +On the day that Leland Stanford was inaugurated governor of California, +he had the further satisfaction of beginning the construction of the +overland railroad by digging and casting the first shovelful of earth. +This took place in Sacramento, in the presence of a large gathering +of the leading people of the state; and from that time the work went +speedily on. It was estimated that the road would cost an average of +eighty thousand dollars a mile, though in the mountains the cost was +nearer one hundred and fifty thousand. + +Not only the right of way, but a large portion of the near-by public +lands, were granted by the government to each road, and at the +completion of each forty miles of track there was to be further aid. The +state of California, the city of San Francisco, and the counties through +which the railroad passed, each gave generously to the Central Pacific; +but all this did not bring in enough ready money. Huntington in the +East and Stanford in the West almost worked miracles in getting funds to +begin the work. + +In the death of Mr. Judah, which occurred at this time, the company +suffered a great loss. Although the enterprise went on to a successful +ending, his name dropped out of sight; but those who know, feel that to +him California owes a great debt of gratitude. Though she was sure +to have the overland sometime, it might have been years later in its +accomplishment, but for the faith, energy, and perseverance of Theodore +D. Judah. + +Charles Crocker now took charge of the building of the road; to +accomplish the work he imported Chinese, whom he found peaceable, +industrious, and quick to learn. They were arranged in companies moving +at the word of command like drilled troops--“Crocker’s battalions” they +were called. There was need of the greatest haste to get the different +portions completed in the time allowed. + +“Why,” said Crocker, “I used to go up and down that road in my car like +a mad bull, stopping along where there was anything wrong, raising Cain +with the men that were not up to time.” + +Neither Mr. Crocker nor Mr. Stanford ever recovered from the strain of +that time. It is said that it eventually caused the death of both men. + +Meantime the Union Pacific was pushing overland westward as fast as +possible. Each road was aiming for the rich plains of Utah. If the +Central stopped at the eastern base of the mountains, it would make this +road of little value except for Pacific coast traffic; but if it could +reach Ogden, the line would pay well. + +It was a mighty race all through the winter of 1868 and 1869, Crocker +and his men working like giants. What he accomplished then was scarcely +less wonderful than Napoleon’s passage of the Alps. + +All the supplies for his thousands of workmen, all the materials and +iron for the road, even the locomotives, he had to have hauled on +sledges over the mountains through the winter snows. + +Ogden was finally made the place where the two roads joined; but they +first met, and the last work was done, at Promontory, a point fifty +miles northwest of Ogden. There in May, 1869, the last tie was laid. +It was made of California laurel, handsomely polished, and on it was a +silver plate with an inscription and the names of the officers of the +two roads. + +It was an eventful meeting on that grassy plain, under the blue Western +sky, while all around rose the rugged peaks that had at last been +conquered by man’s energy. The telegraph at this spot was, for the +occasion, connected with all the offices along the line and in the +leading cities of the country, where crowds were in waiting to hear that +the great work was finished. + +Two trains were there with their engines, as Bret Harte describes them, +“facing on the single track, half a world behind each back.” Around +stood the guests and officers of the roads waiting for the final +ceremony. “Hats off,” clicked the telegraph. Prayer was offered, and +then the four gold and silver spikes, presented by California, Nevada, +Idaho, and Montana, were put in place by President Stanford of the +Central Pacific and Dr. Durant of the Union Pacific. + +As the silver hammers fell on the golden spikes, in all the telegraph +offices along the line and in the Eastern cities the hammer of the +magnet struck the bell--“tap, tap, tap.” “Done,”--flashed the message to +the eager crowds. + +All over the land the event was celebrated with great rejoicing. In +Buffalo, as the news came, hundreds of voices burst out in the singing +of “The Star-Spangled Banner.” In Boston, services were held at midday +in Trinity Church, where the popular pastor offered “thanks to God for +the completion of the greatest work ever undertaken by men.” + +To the four men who were the builders of the Central Pacific, the public +and particularly the state of California owes much. They not only built +the road, but made it a grand, complete success in all its departments. +Without it, California would still be a remote province, little known. +With it she is one of the chief states of the Union, and in the great +business world she is known and felt as a power. + +Later the corporation became very wealthy and powerful. Then it was that +it began to abuse its power, working often against the best interests of +the inhabitants of the Pacific slope. In some cases, as in the eviction +of the people who were settlers in the Mussel Slough District, it was +guilty of extreme cruelty and injustice, such as is almost certain to +bring its own punishment. But in reckoning with the Southern Pacific, +for so the company is now called, the people of California should be +careful to look on both sides of the question, remembering the terrible +struggles of those early days, when the building of the Overland, +that greatest achievement America had ever seen, was to them like +the miraculous gift of some fairy godmother, seemingly beyond the +possibility of nature. + + + +Chapter XI + +That Which Followed After + + + +About the time that the people of California were beginning to feel +the trouble arising from the unlimited wealth and power of the great +railroad corporation, they discovered what they felt was danger coming +from another quarter. This was in the large number of Chinese pouring +into the state. Already every town of importance had its quaint Chinese +quarter, bits of Asia transplanted to the western hemisphere. Yet these +sons of Asia, with their quiet, gliding motions and oriental dress, had +been of great service in the development of the new land. Many of the +most helpful improvements were rendered possible by their labor, and for +years they were almost the only servants for house or laundry work to +be obtained. Never did the housewives of the Pacific coast join in the +outcry against the Chinese. + +Although all this was true, it was also a fact that an American +workingman could not live and support his family on the wages a Chinaman +would take; and when the white man saw the Chinese given the jobs +because they could work cheaply, he became discouraged and angry. Was he +to be denied a living in his own country because of these strangers? For +this reason the working people became very bitter toward the Chinese. + +Their complaints were carried to Washington, and because of them +the government finally arranged with China for the restriction of +immigration, but not, however, before the matter caused much trouble in +California. + +During the years 1876-77 times were rightly called “hard” along the +Pacific slope. Often laboring men could not get work, and their families +suffered. The blame for all this was unjustly given to the Chinese, who +were several times badly treated by mobs. The general discontent led at +last to a demand for a new state constitution, which many people thought +would remedy the evils of which they complained. For twenty-five years +the old constitution had done good service. On the day it had been +signed, Walter Colton, alcalde of Monterey, wrote thus of it in his +diary: “It is thoroughly democratic; its basis, political and social +equality, is the creed of the thousands who run the plow, wield the +plane, the hammer, the trowel, the spade.” Still it had its faults, the +greatest of which was the power given the legislature over public moneys +and lands, as well as the chance it allowed for dishonesty in voting. + +Unfortunately many of the delegates to the convention which was to make +the new constitution were foreigners who knew very little of American +manners, customs, and laws, and few of them were among the deeper +thinkers of the state, men who had had experience in lawmaking. That the +new constitution is not much better than the old, many who helped in the +making of it will agree. It was adopted in May, 1879. Since that time it +has received a number of changes by means of amendments voted for by +the people, and in spite of whatever errors it has contained, the state +under it has gone forward to a high degree of prosperity. + +In 1875, during the administration of Governor Pacheco, the first native +state governor, an invitation was extended to native-born boys of San +Francisco to take part in the Fourth of July celebration. A fine body +of young men were thus assembled, of whom Hittell in his story of San +Francisco says, “They were unparalleled in physical development and +mental vigor, and unsurpassed in pride and enthusiasm for the land that +gave them birth.” This gathering led to the founding of the “Native Sons +of the Golden West,” an organization which now numbers many thousands +and of which the great state may well be proud. Later there was +organized a sister society of native daughters, and this also has a +large membership. As stated in their constitution, one of the main +objects of these sons and daughters of the West is “to awaken and +strengthen patriotism and keep alive and glowing the sacred love of +California.” + +An event of the utmost importance to the southern part of the state was +the completion of the railroad between San Francisco and Los Angeles, +which occurred in 1879. Its route lay through the rich valley of the San +Joaquin. Work had been carried on from each end of the line, and it was +a very happy assembly which gathered to witness the junction of the two +divisions, the event taking place at the eastern end of the San Fernando +tunnel. This road was afterward extended from Los Angeles eastward by +the way of Yuma and Tucson, and is to-day the Southern Pacific Overland. +Later the Santa Fe Company built its popular road between Los Angeles +and the Eastern states. Both these companies now have lines from Los +Angeles to San Diego, and the Southern Pacific has a coast road the +length of the state, along which the scenery is of great beauty. + +Indians + +In the history of the state the most pathetic portion is that which +relates to the Indians. Bancroft says, “The California valley cannot +grace her annals with a single Indian war bordering upon respectability. +It can boast, however, a hundred or two of as brutal butcherings on the +part of our honest miners and brave pioneers as any area of equal extent +in our republic.” Miners and settlers coming into the country would +take up the waters where the natives fished, the land where they hunted, +driving them back to rocky soil, where there was nothing but acorns and +roots to support life. As a result the poor, unhappy creatures, driven +by hunger, would steal the newcomers’ horses and cattle. It is true that +the white men depended, in a great measure, upon their animals for the +support of their families; but they thought only of their own wrongs, +and would arm in strong parties, chase the wretched natives to their +homes, and tear down their miserable villages, killing the innocent and +guilty alike. The government was the most to blame, because it did not +in the first place enact laws for the protection of the Indians in their +rights. + +About the towns, many of the natives gathered for work. In some places +the authorities had the right to arrest them as vagabonds and hire them +out as bondmen to the highest bidder, for a period often of as many as +two or three months at a time, with no regard to family ties. Little +seems to have been done to assist them to a better kind of life. In Los +Angeles, when working in the vineyards as grape pickers, they were paid +their wages each Saturday night, and immediately they were tempted +on all sides by sellers of bad whisky and were really hurried into +drunkenness. Their shrieks and howls would, for a time, make the night +hideous, when they were driven by the officers of the law into corrals, +like so many pigs or cattle, and left there till Monday morning, when +they were handed over to whoever chose to pay the officers for the right +to own them for the next week. + +Near the Oregon line lived some of the most warlike and troublesome +Indians of California. Here there were one or two severe fights, the +worst of which was with the Modocs, in the northern lava beds. It +was here that General Canby was killed. To-day the Modocs are still +suffering keenly. In the upper part of the state the Indians have no +lands of any kind, and noble men and women of California are working to +secure for them their rights from the government. In the south, whole +villages have been found living on nothing but ground acorn meal, from +which miserable diet many children die and older people cannot long +sustain life. + +The Sequoya League, an association for the betterment of the Indians of +the Southwest, has done much toward opening the eyes of the public and +of the government officials to the unhappy condition of these first +owners of the soil. Congress, in 1906, appropriated $100,000 to be used +in buying land and water for those Indian reservations or settlements +where the suffering was greatest. This was a good beginning, but as the +needy Indians are scattered all over the state, much more is required +before they can be so placed that they can earn a living by their +labors. + +Sheep Industry + +Gradually the cattle industry, which was for so long a time the leading +business of the country, gave way to sheep raising. During summer and +fall large flocks of grayish white merinos could be seen getting a rich +living on the brown grasses, the yellow stubble of old grain fields, and +the tightly rolled nuts of the bur clover; while in winter and spring, +hills and plains with their velvet-like covering of green alfileria +offered the best and juiciest of food. This was the time of the coming +of the lambs. As soon as they were old enough to be separated from their +mothers they were put during the day in companies by themselves. A band +of five or six hundred young lambs, playing and skipping over the young +green grass they were just learning to eat, was a beautiful sight to +everybody save to the man or boy who had them to herd. They led him such +a chase that by the time he had them safely corralled for the night, +every muscle in his body would be aching with fatigue. + +Shearing time was the liveliest portion of the herder’s life, which was +generally very lonely. First came the shearing crew with their captain; +next arrived the venders of hot coffee, tamales, tortillas, and other +Mexican dainties; brush booths were erected and a brisk trade began. The +herds were driven up and into a corral where several shearers could work +at a time. Snip, snip, snip, went the shears hour after hour. It was the +boast of a good shearer that he could clip a sheep in seven minutes and +not once bring blood. As fast as cut, the wool was packed in a long sack +suspended from a framework. The dust was dreadful, and the man or boy +whose duty it was, when the bag was partly full, to jump in and tramp +the wool down so that the bag might hold more, would nearly choke before +he emerged into the clear daylight. + +The passage of the no-fence law by the legislature of 1873, while it was +opposed by the sheep and cattle men, was one of the greatest aids to the +growth of agriculture, especially in the southern part of the state. +It provided that cattle and sheep should not be allowed to run loose +without a herder to keep them from trespassing. This saved the farmer +from the necessity of fencing his grain fields, a most important help in +a country where fence material was so scarce and expensive. + +Colony Days + +For some time after California’s admission to the Union most of the +events of importance in its history took place around the Bay of San +Francisco and the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin; but early +in the seventies the south land awoke from its long sleep and took part +in history making, not in such stirring incidents as those of the days +of ‘49, but in a quieter growth that was yet of importance in the making +of the state. People in the East had begun to find out that southern +California had a mild, healthful climate and that, though the sands +of her rivers and rocks of her mountains were not of gold, still her +oranges, by aid of irrigation, could be turned into a golden harvest, +and that all her soil needed was water in order to yield most bountiful +crops. + +As little land could be bought in small ranches, those wishing to +settle in the country chose the colony plan. A number of families would +contribute to a common sum, with which would be purchased a large +piece of land of several thousand acres with its water right. Each man +received from this a number of acres in proportion to the amount of +money he had invested. The first colony formed was that of Anaheim; then +followed Westminster, Riverside, Pasadena, and many others, and by that +time people began to come into southern California in large numbers. + +The overland journey was much longer, then than now, but quite as +pleasant. At twenty-two miles an hour the country could be seen and +enjoyed, acquaintance made with the plump little prairie dogs of the +Nebraska plains, and their neighbors the ground owls, which bobbed grave +salutes as the train passed by. Bands of galloping deer, groups of grave +Indian warriors sitting on their ponies watching the train from afar, +an occasional buffalo lumbering along, shaking his shaggy head, were the +things that interested the traveler who took the overland trains in ‘74 +and ‘75. + +At that time between San Francisco and Los Angeles there were two forms +of travel: a hundred miles of railroad, with the rest of the distance by +stage; and the steamship line. Families chose the ship. From San Pedro +to Los Angeles was the only railroad of the southern country. In Los +Angeles the flat-roofed adobe buildings, where people could walk about +on the tops of the houses, were a wonder to the Eastern strangers. +Beautiful homes some of them were, where glimpses could be had of +stately senoras in silks and laces, and beautiful senoritas whose dark +eyes made havoc with the hearts of the colony young men. The young +Californian, who seemed a very part of his fiery steed, was at once the +admiration and envy of the Yankee boy. + +Queer sights were to be seen at every turn. Creaking carretas, whose +squeaking wheels announced their coming a block away, filled the +streets, some loaded with grapes, others with rounded shaggy grease-wood +roots or sacks of the red Spanish bean and great branches of flaming +red peppers. The oxen, with yoke on the horns, seemed as if out of some +Bible picture. + +Life in the different colonies was much the same. The newcomers had many +things to learn, but they made the best of their mistakes, and days of +hard work, such as many of them had never known, were often ended with +social or literary meetings, where minds were brightened and hearts +warmed by friendly intercourse. + +When the rains were heavy, the swift mountain streams could not be +crossed, and often provisions gave out; then with neighborly kindness +those who had, loaned to those who had not, until fresh supplies could +be obtained. To this day the smell of new redwood lumber, the scent of +burning grease-wood brush, will bring back those times to the colonists +with a painful longing for the happy days of their new life in the new +land. Many never gained wealth, while some lost lands and savings; but +it was these earnest, intelligent men and women who developed the rich +valleys of the south land and to whom we are indebted for the bloom and +beauty found there to-day. + +The result of the land laws and the ill-treatment of the Mexican +population at the mines was a period of highway robbery by bands of +outlaws, each under the leadership of some especially daring man. The +story of some of their adventures reminds the hearer of the tales of +Robin Hood. Not so mild as Robin’s were their lives, however. Often +their passage was marked by a trail of blood, where bitter revenge was +taken because of bitter wrongs. Last of these bands was that of Vasquez, +who robbed the colony folk gently with many apologies. He was finally +captured and executed, and with him the bandits passed from the page of +state history. + +Alaska + +One night in 1867 there took place in Washington an event that was to be +of great importance to the western part of the United States. This was +the signing of the treaty for the purchase of Alaska. As early as 1860 +Mr. Seward, in a speech delivered at St. Paul, said: + +“Looking far off into the northwest I see the Russian as he occupies +himself establishing seaports, towns, and fortifications, on the verge +of this continent, and I say, ‘Go on and build up your posts all along +the coast up even to the Arctic Ocean, they will yet become the outposts +of my own country.’” So long ago did the desire for Alaska, or Russian +America as it was then called, possess the mind of the great statesman. +But it was not until seven years later that he found the chance to win +the government to his views. One evening, while the matter was under +discussion between the two countries, the Russian minister called upon +Mr. Seward at his home, to inform him that he had just received the +Czar’s sanction for the sale. + +“Good, we will sign the treaty to-night,” said the American statesman. + +“What, so late as this, and your department closed, your clerks +scattered?” remonstrated the Russian. + +“It can be done,” replied Mr. Seward; and it was. At midnight the treaty +was signed. The price paid for Alaska was less than the cost of two of +our modern battleships. Every year has proved more and more the wisdom +of the purchase. The discovery of gold in particular has immensely +increased its value and has brought to California an enlarged commerce. + +Spanish-American War + +In 1898 came the war with Spain. The tidings of the 15th of February, +1898, filled the hearts of the people of California with indignation +and grief. That the United States battleship Maine had been blown up +in Havana harbor and numbers of our seamen killed, seemed to many +sufficient cause for immediate war. Some, however, feared for the +Pacific coast settlements, with insufficient fortifications and no war +vessels of importance, except the magnificent Western-built battleship, +Oregon. This vessel was at Puget Sound when the news of the blowing up +of the Maine reached her. At the same time came orders to hurry on coal +and proceed to San Francisco. There ten days were spent in taking on as +much coal and provisions as the vessel could carry. Then, with orders to +join the Atlantic fleet as quickly as possible, on the morning of March +19 she steamed through Golden Gate and turned southward, to begin one of +the longest voyages ever made by a battleship. + +The people of California were sad at heart to part with their noble +vessel, and when, in April, war was declared, thousands followed the +loved ship and her brave men with their interest and prayers. All alone +upon the great sea she was sailing steadily onward, to meet, perhaps, a +fleet of foes, or worse still, a dart from that terror of the waters, +a torpedo boat; yet always watchful and always ready for whatever foe +might appear, she journeyed on. + +The order given by Captain Clark to his officers in case they sighted +the Spanish squadron, was to turn and run away. As the Spanish ships +followed they were almost sure to become separated, some sailing faster +than others. The Oregon having a heavy stern battery, could do effective +fighting as she sailed; and if the enemy’s ships came up one at a time, +there might be a chance of damaging one before the next arrived. + +Through two oceans and three zones, fifteen thousand miles without +mishap, the Oregon sailed in fifty-nine days. When she joined the fleet +where it lay off Cuba, she came sweeping in at fifteen knots an hour, +the winner of the mightiest race ever run, cheered at the finish by +every man of the American squadron. All honor should be given to her +wise captain and brave crew and to the Western workmen who made her so +stanch and true. + +On a fair May day, while California children were rejoicing over their +baskets of sweet May flowers, the first battle of the war was fought, +the first, and for California the most important. When Dewey destroyed +the Spanish fleet on that Sunday morning (May 1, 1898) in Manila Bay, +he not only won an important victory, but a greater result lay in the +change of attitude of the United States toward the rest of the world. + +It was a change which had begun long before; many events had led up to +it, but possession of the Philippines and other islands of the Pacific +forced our country to recognize the importance of Asia and the ocean +which washes its shores. + +Commerce has always moved westward, going from Asia to Greece, to Rome, +to western Europe, to the western hemisphere; and the race which takes +up the movement and carries it forward is the one which gains the +profits. All must realize the truth of Mr. Seward’s prophecy when he +said, “The Pacific coast will be the mover in developing a commerce +to which that of the Atlantic Ocean will be only a fraction.” “The +opportunity of the Pacific,” some one has called it. Nearly two thirds +of the people of the earth inhabit the lands washed by the waters of +this western sea, and the country which secures their trade will become +the leading nation of the world--a leadership which should be of the +best kind, supplying the needs of peaceful life, building railroads, +encouraging the things that help a people upward and onward. To the +young men of California, Hawaii and the Philippines offer every chance +for daring, energy, and invention. If to honesty and energy there be +added a speaking knowledge of the Spanish language, there lie before +the youth of the Pacific coast the finest opportunities for active, +successful lives. + +As soon as President McKinley issued his call to arms for the Spanish +war, the men of California responded with a rush. A large number of +those who had enlisted were hurried to San Francisco, where the military +authorities were quite unprepared to furnish supplies. For a day or two +there was real suffering; then the Society of the Red Cross came to the +rescue, and thousands of dollars’ worth of food and blankets were sent +to the camp. As soon as the always generous people of San Francisco +comprehended the state of affairs, there was danger that the hungry +young soldiers would be ill from overfeeding. + +The twenty-third day of May, 1898, is a day to be remembered in the +history of our country, for on that day went out the first home regiment +from the mainland of the United States, to fight a foe beyond the sea. +When the twelve companies of California Volunteers marched through the +city from the Presidio to the docks of the Pacific Mail and Steamship +Company, two hundred thousand people accompanied them. So hard was it +for our peace-loving people to understand the real meaning of war that +it was not until the brave lads and earnest men were actually marching +to the steamer which was to carry them thousands of miles to meet danger +and death, that many quite realized the sorrowful fact. Men cheered +the regiment as it passed, but the sobs of the women sometimes nearly +drowned the hurrahs. Said one officer, “It was heartrending. If we had +let ourselves go, we would have cried our way to the dock.” But in the +war the record of the California troops was one that gave new honor to +their state. + +Annexation of Hawaii + +“The Hawaiian Islands,” said Walt Whitman, in the Overland Monthly, +“are not a group. They are a string of rare and precious pearls in the +sapphire center of the great American seas. Some day we shall gather up +the pretty string of pearls and throw it merrily about the neck of the +beautiful woman who has her handsome head on the outside of the +big American Dollar, and they will be called the beautiful American +Islands.” + +In 1893 the native queen of the islands was deposed by a revolution +conducted in a great measure by Americans living in Hawaii. A +provisional government was formed and an application made for annexation +to the United States. Through two presidential terms the matter was +discussed both in Congress and by the people all over the country. +Many were against extending our possessions beyond the mainland in any +direction. Others thought it unfair to the natives of the islands to +take their lands against their will. It seemed to be pretty well proved, +however, that the native government was not for the advancement and best +interests of the country, and that in a short time these kindly, gentle +people would have to give up their valuable possessions to some stronger +power. + +Captain Mahan, writing of these conditions, said: “These islands are the +key to the Pacific. For a foreign nation to hold them would mean that +our Pacific ports and our Pacific commerce would be at the mercy of that +nation.” + +In the early part of the Spanish war (July, 1898) the resolution for the +annexation of the Hawaiian Islands was passed by Congress and approved +by President McKinley, and the string of pearls was cast about +Columbia’s fair neck. + +Pius Fund + +It seems strange that the first case to be tried in the peace court of +the nations at the Hague should have been in regard to the Pius Fund of +the Californias collected by the Jesuit padres two hundred and thirty +years before, to build missions for the Indians of California. The way +in which this money was obtained is described in Chapter IV of this +history. It grew to be a large sum, of which the Mexican government took +control, paying the interest to the Roman Catholic Church in Upper and +Lower California. After the Mexican war, Mexico refused to pay its share +to the Church of Upper California. The United States took up the matter, +claiming that according to the treaty which closed the war, the Catholic +Church of the state of California had a right to its Mexican property. + +In 1868 it was agreed by the two countries to leave the matter to the +decision of Sir Edward Thornton, English ambassador at Washington. He +decided that Mexico should pay an amount equal to one half the interest +since the war. Mexico did this, but had paid nothing during all the +years which had passed since that time. To settle the dispute finally, +it was decided to leave it to arbitration by the Hague court. The +verdict given was that Mexico should pay the Roman Catholic Church of +California $1,400,000 for the past, and one half the interest on the +fund each year from February, 1903, forever. + +Panama Canal + +The natural result of the nation’s need in the Civil War was the +overland railroad. The danger to the Oregon on its long journey, +the difficulties in getting reinforcements to Admiral Dewey, and the +possession of new lands in the Pacific led to decided action in regard +to the building of a ship canal through the Isthmus of Panama. + +For years the plan had been talked over. In General Grant’s first term +as President he saw so plainly our need of this water way, that he +arranged a canal treaty with Colombia, and it seemed as though the work +would soon begin, but the Colombian government refused to allow the +matter to go on, hoping to make better terms with the United States. +This was not possible then, so the plan was not carried out. Later, +a French company undertook to build a canal across Panama, but after +several years of work failed. + +Many of the Americans favored the route through Nicaragua, but after the +government had spent much money and time in considering carefully both +propositions, the preference was given to the Panama route. In 1902 an +act for the building of the canal was passed by Congress and approved by +President Roosevelt. It provided, however, that should the President be +unable to obtain a satisfactory title to the French company’s work and +the necessary territory from the republic of Colombia on reasonable +terms and in a reasonable time, he should seek to secure the Nicaragua +route. The matter was almost settled, when again Colombia’s greed got +the better of her judgment and she refused to ratify the compact. + +When the people of the province of Panama saw that they were likely to +lose their canal through the action of their government, they promptly +revolted and declared themselves independent of Colombia. The United +States recognized their independence, and a satisfactory treaty was at +once concluded with them. In March, 1904, the commission appointed by +the President for building the canal sailed for the Isthmus. + +Nearly one fourth of the work had already been done by the old company, +but there was yet a great deal to do. Besides the actual building of the +canal, its dams and locks, the fever district had to be made healthful +enough for workmen to live there, marshes had to be drained, pure +water brought in from the mountains, and the fever-spreading mosquitoes +killed. In addition to all this, the natives of the land and the many +bands of workmen of different races had to be brought into an orderly, +law-abiding condition. In less than a year it was found necessary to +alter the commission, the President choosing this time men particularly +noted for their energy and power to make things go. The work progressed +with great rapidity, until, in August, 1914, the canal was opened to +navigation. + +The Orient + +In the latter part of the nineteenth century the eastern portion of Asia +began to stir itself, rising up from the sleepy, shut-in life it had +led for hundreds of years. The eyes of the world watched in wonder the +progress of the war between China and Japan (1894-95). In it was fought +the first battle in which modern war vessels were engaged. It was found +that the Japanese, of whom so little was then known, could fight, and +fight well. + +As a result of the war, China ceded to Japan the territory of Manchuria +and the right to protect Korea. Russia and Germany objected, however, +and France agreed with them, so Japan had to give way. Soon Russia began +taking possession of the disputed territories, but she had constant +trouble with Japan, and early in 1904 war broke out. Before the close +of the year the civilized world stood astonished not only at the wisdom, +patriotism, and fighting qualities of the Japanese, but also at their +humanity, which would not have discredited a Christian nation. + +There took place a series of great battles, both on land and on the sea, +in which the Japanese were generally victorious. The terrible loss of +life and destruction of property led the President of the United States, +in the spring of 1905, to urge upon the two countries that fighting +cease and peace be arranged. + +Few statesmen believed that Mr. Roosevelt would be successful in his +humane endeavor, but he pushed his suggestion with patient perseverance +until, in September, 1905, Americans had the satisfaction of witnessing +upon their soil, at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, the signing of the treaty +of peace between Russia and Japan. + +Japan’s methods of conducting the war had advanced her to a standing +among nations which she had never before occupied, and all realized the +wisdom of securing commercial relations with her people, who were so +rapidly adopting the habits and customs of the rest of the civilized +world. In this competition for her commerce, California, by her position +on the western shore of the United States, has unusual advantages, a +fact which was soon proved by the amount of money invested in increasing +her facilities for production and manufacturing. Unfortunately little +has yet been done in the matter of shipbuilding, and few vessels which +enter her harbors have been built in the state. + +Some Recent Events + +“I’ll put a girdle around the earth in forty minutes,” prophesied Puck +in “Midsummer Night’s Dream.” The boastful fairy did not succeed in +accomplishing this wonder until midnight on the Fourth of July, 1903. On +that day the Pacific cable from the United States to Hawaii, to Midway +Island, to Guam, and to Manila, began operations. The men worked hard +that last day of the cable laying, and by 11 P.M. the President of the +United States sent a message to Governor Taft at Manila. Soon after was +the old prophecy fulfilled, when President Roosevelt, no doubt with Puck +at his elbow, sent a message round the world in twenty minutes, thus +bettering Puck’s idea by half. + +The saddest year in California’s records is that of 1906. On the morning +of April 18, a great and overwhelming calamity overtook the beautiful +region around San Francisco Bay. A movement of the earth’s crust which +began in the bottom of the ocean far out from land, reached the coast +in the vicinity of Tomales Bay in Marin County. Wrecking everything +that came in its direct path, it shivered its way in a southeasterly +direction to a point somewhere in the northern part of Monterey County. +The land on the two sides of the fault moved a short distance in +opposite directions. Thus in some straight fences and roads crossing the +fault, one section was found to be shifted as much as sixteen feet to +one side of the other. The severe vibrations set up by this break and +shifting extended a long distance in all directions. + +Although the earthquake was by no means so severe in San Francisco as +in the region of Tomales Bay or even in the vicinity of Stanford, Santa +Rosa, San Jose, or Agnews, it caused greater loss of life and property +on account of the crowded population. Many buildings were wrecked, +especially those poorly constructed on land reclaimed from swampy soil +or built up by filling in. + +People who had prophesied that, should an earthquake come, the high +buildings such as those of the Call and the Chronicle would surely +collapse, were astonished to see those giant structures apparently +unharmed while buildings of much less height, but without the steel +framework, were completely wrecked. + +The earthquake was a sad calamity, but had this been the sum of the +disaster the city would only have paused in its progress long enough to +clear away the wreck and to sorrow with the mourners. It was the fires +which sprang up while the water system was too damaged to be of use that +wiped out old historical San Francisco, leaving in its place a waste of +gray ashes and desolate ruins. Santa Rosa, San Jose, Stanford, Agnews, +all suffered severely from the earthquake; but in few cases did fires +arise to add to their loss. The State Insane Asylum at Agnews, which was +built on swampy ground, was a complete wreck with large loss of life. + +The marvelous bravery and cheerfulness with which the people of +San Francisco bore their cruel fate gave a lesson in courage and +unselfishness to humanity. The magnificent generosity with which not +only the people of southern and northern California, but of the whole +country, sprang to the relief of the unhappy city gave a silver lining +to the black cloud of disaster. + +Before the embers of their ruined homes had ceased to smoke the people +began the work of rebuilding, and at the time of the visit of the +Atlantic fleet of the United States navy in 1908, business had so +revived as to be almost normal, and the welcome accorded the silent +vessels in white by the gallant City of St. Francis was as hearty and +generous as any that greeted them during their progress. + +October, 1909, was marked by two events of importance to San Francisco. +One was the visit of President Taft, to whom the great state of +California had given all its electoral votes. The second was the +celebration, at the same time, of the discovery of the bay, which +occurred in the fall of 1769, the founding of the presidio and mission, +which took place in the fall of 1776, and the rebuilding of the burned +district. On this occasion the people of San Francisco and their guests +gave themselves up to a time of merrymaking--a three days’ historical +carnival called, in honor of the commander of the expedition during +which the great bay was discovered, the “Portola Festival.” + +In 1915 the Panama-Pacific International Exposition was held in San +Francisco. It contained many novel and beautiful features, and was +attended by vast multitudes of people. Another notable exposition was +held at San Diego, beginning in 1915 and continuing in 1916. + + + +Chapter XII + +“The Groves Were God’s First Temples” + + + +If the people of this century continue the destruction of trees as they +are doing at present, a hundred years from now this will be a world +without forests, a woodless, treeless waste. What a desolate picture is +this! What a grave charge will the people of the future have to bring +against us that we recklessly destroy the trees, one of God’s most +beautiful and useful gifts to man, without even an endeavor to replace +the loss by replanting! + +During the last hundred years the American lumber belt has moved +westward over a wide space. In the early days of our history nearly the +entire supply came from Maine, and what interesting stories we have +of those brave pioneer loggers and settlers! Gradually the noble woods +which furnished the tall, smooth masts for which American ships were +famous, were destroyed; and the ringing ax blows were then heard in the +forests about the Great Lakes and in the middle Southern states. This +supply is by no means exhausted, but to-day the heart of the lumber +interest is on the Pacific coast. + +Around the great central valley which is drained by the Sacramento and +the San Joaquin rivers, six hundred and forty miles long, lie mountain +ranges on whose slopes are some of the noblest forests of the world. +To the north of the central valley the trees of the east and west join, +forming a heavily wooded belt quite across the state. + +In the trade, the greatest demand is for lumber of the pine and fir +trees, and of these California has as many species as Europe and Asia +combined. She has, indeed, only a little less than one fifth of all the +lumber supply of the United States. Her most valuable tree for commerce +is the sugar pine. It attains a diameter of twelve feet or more and +is often two hundred feet high. But the most interesting trees of +California and of the world are the Sequoias, the oldest of all living +things. Very far back, in the time of which we have no written history, +in the moist days of gigantic vegetation and animals, the Sequoias +covered a large portion of the earth’s surface; then came the great ice +overflow, and when that melted away, almost the only things living of +the days of giants were the Sequoias of middle and upper California, and +those on some two thousand acres over the Oregon line. + +The Sequoia sempervirens, which is commonly called redwood, is +distributed along the Coast Range, the trees thriving only when they +are constantly swept by the sea fogs. For lumber this tree is nearly +as valuable as the sugar pine. From Eureka to San Diego, this is the +material of which most of the houses are built. Because of its rich +color and the high polish it takes, especially the curly and grained +portions, its value for cabinet work is being more and more appreciated. +On account of the presence of acid and the absence of pitch and rosin +in its composition, it resists fire and is therefore a safe wood for +building. When the Baldwin Hotel in San Francisco, a six-story building +of brick and wood, burned down, two redwood water tanks on the top of +the only brick wall that was left standing, were found to be hardly +charred and quite water-tight. + +It is the redwood which furnishes the largest boards for the lumber +trade. Not long ago a man in the lumber region built his office of six +boards taken from one of the trees. The boards were twelve by fourteen +feet, and there was one for each wall, one for the floor, and one for +the ceiling. Windows and doors were cut out where desired. + +In the heart of the redwood and pine forests there are some thirty mill +plants, and they own about half of the timber district. The methods of +lumbering are exceedingly wasteful. Scarcely half of the standing timber +of a tract is taken by the loggers and what is left is often burned or +totally neglected. Replanting is unthought of and the young trees are +treated as a nuisance. + +Three fourths of the forests of California grow upon side hills, +generally with an incline of from fifteen to thirty degrees. When the +trees are gone, therefore, the rain soon washes away the soil, leaving +the rocks bare. When the next rainy season comes, the water, not being +able to sink into the earth, and so gradually find its way to the +streams, rushes down the hillsides in torrents, flooding the smaller +water courses. Then the rivers rise and overflow, causing great damage +to property; but their waters quickly subside, and when the dry season +comes they have not sufficient depth for the passage of ships of +commerce. The total destruction of the forests would soon destroy the +navigability of the principal water highways of the state, while +another serious result would be the lessening of the water supply for +irrigation. + +The second variety of the Sequoia, the gigantea, or “big tree,” as it is +called, grows much farther inland than the redwood, being found on the +western slopes of the Sierras. There are ten separate groves of these +trees, from the little company of six in southern Placer County to +the southernmost Sequoia, two hundred and sixty miles away on the Tule +River. The whole put together would not make more than a few hundred +thousand of extra-sized trees, and of the giants themselves not more +than five hundred. These rise as high as three hundred and fifty feet, +and are from twenty to thirty feet through. Near the Yosemite the stage +road passes through the hollow center of one of those monsters. In a +grove owned by the government some cavalry men, with their horses, lined +up on a “big tree” log, and it easily held fourteen, each horse’s nose +touching the next one’s tail. + +How old these trees may be is yet unsettled, but Mr. John Muir, their +intimate friend and companion, tells of one which was felled which +showed by its rings that it was 2200 years old. Another which had blown +down was fully 4000 years old. Later investigation makes it seem not +unlikely that some have existed for even 5000 years. It seems a sin to +destroy a living thing of that age. + +The great basin of the Santa Cruz Mountains, which contains a large +collection of the Sequoia sempervirens, belongs to the United States +government. So, too, do the Mariposa grove of Sequoia gigantea, and the +General Grant park, and Tuolumne grove, each of which contains a small +number of fine specimens of the big trees. These properties will be +protected, but all other groves, in which are the giant Sequoias, are +in great danger. There has recently been a movement by the government +toward purchasing the Calaveras grove, which has the finest collection +of the big trees known, but nothing decided has been done. Meantime +there are a number of mills engaged in devouring this noble forest. + +Unless the people of California take up the matter with earnestness +and energy, the state and the United States will stand disgraced before +mankind for letting these wonders of the world, these largest and oldest +of all living things, be destroyed for the lumber they will make. They +should be purchased by the government and protected, then some movement +should be started in all lumber districts by which waste in logging may +be done away with, young trees protected and cleared, and forest land +replanted with suitable trees. The law excluding cattle and sheep from +the forests is already proving its wisdom by the new growth of young +trees. Only among the giant Sequoias of the Tule and King’s River +district are there to be found baby trees of that species. + +The lumber trade is one of the most interesting and necessary industries +of the state. Work in the camp is healthful and well paid. Many a +delicate boy or young man in the city would grow strong and healthy and +live a much longer time if he would cast his lot with the hardy choppers +and cutters of the great forest of the Pacific slope. A logging crew +consists of thirty men, including two cooks. The discipline is as rigid +as that of a military system; each man knows his own particular duties, +and must attend to them promptly and faithfully. Trees are not chopped +down, as used to be the custom; with the exception of a little chopping +on either edge, a saw run by two men does the work. Oxen are seldom +used, as in early days on the Atlantic coast, to haul out the logs, +for they have given way to “donkeys,”--not the long-eared, loud-voiced +little animals, but the powerful, compact donkey-engines. + +Lumber schooners and steamers are the chief features of our coast +traffic. Almost all the large cities of the Pacific coast owe their +foundation and prosperity to this trade. San Francisco and Eureka in +Humboldt County are the principal ports of the trade. Mendocino has a +rock-bound coast, with no harbors, but she has fine forests. Here the +lumber steamer secures its cargo by means of suspended wire chutes as +trolleys. The outer end of the trolley wire is anchored in the ocean, +the wire crosses the deck of the moored steamer, the slack being taken +up to the ship’s gaff, thus making a tight wire up and down which the +trolley car with its load is sent. + +Sometimes a great raft made of lumber is taken in tow by a steamer +loaded with the same material and they start on a voyage down the coast, +but this is a dangerous venture. If the sea becomes rough the raft may +break loose from the steamer and go plunging over the waves, no one +knows where. The brave captains of our coasting vessels fear nothing so +much as a timber raft adrift which may crash into a vessel at any moment +and against which there is no way of guarding. + + + +Chapter XIII + +To All that Sow the Time of Harvest Should be Given + + + +In all but savage countries, wheat is the most important product of the +soil, A large proportion of human beings living on the earth to-day are +so poverty-stricken as to make the question of food a matter of anxiety +for every day. The prayer for bread unites more voices than any other. + +The padres who settled California understood this well. A number of +bushels of wheat, snugly incased in leather sacks, formed a precious +part of the cargo of the San Carlos, that stout Spanish vessel which +in 1769 brought the first settlers to California. This seed-wheat +was divided among the early missions and as soon as possible was +planted--not with success at first. For a time the padres made little +progress in crop raising. They had to learn by their failures. In San +Diego the first wheat planted was sown in the river bottom and the seed +was carried entirely away by the rising of the stream in the winter; and +the next year, which proved to be a dry one, it was planted so far from +the water that it was almost all destroyed by drought. At San Gabriel +the first crop was drowned out, but the second, planted on the plain +where it could be irrigated, was a success. San Gabriel was chief +among the missions for wheat raising, and was called the “mother of +agriculture.” + +Grain planting and harvesting, in the days of the padres, differed +widely from the methods which prevail to-day. Then the ground was plowed +once or twice, but in what manner? A yoke of oxen, guided by an Indian, +dragged a plow with an iron point made by an Indian blacksmith. If iron +could not be obtained, the point was of oak. Seed, which had been +first soaked in lye, was sown by hand, broadcast, and harrowed in with +branches of trees. The grain was cut by the Indians with knives and +sickles. It was afterward placed on the hardened floor of a circular +corral made for the purpose, and into it was turned a band of horses +which were urged to a run by the shouts and whips of the Indian +vaqueros. After running one way they were frightened into turning and +going the other. In this manner the grain was trampled out of the husks. +It was freed from the chaff by being thrown high in the air by the +shovelful, when the wind was blowing hard enough to carry away the light +straw. + +Next, the grain was washed and dried, then ground, generally between +two stones bolted together. A pole for a handle was also fastened by +the bolt, and the stone was turned, sometimes by mules, sometimes by +Indians. La Perouse, the French scientist who visited the coast in 1786 +and gave to the padres of San Carlos a handmill for grinding grain, said +that it would enable four Indian women to do the work of a hundred by +the old way. Before many years the padres at San Gabriel built a water +mill of stone and adobe which ground grain in large quantities, but not +with entire success, until Chapman, the first American in that region, +gave them his assistance to perfect the machinery. This interesting +building has been restored by Mr. H. E. Huntington and is an object of +interest to those who visit San Gabriel. + +In 1815 the missions raised enough wheat to supply the whole population, +and there was even an attempt to ship grain to Mexico. This was a +failure, but a little grain was sold to the Russians at Fort Ross. At +the time of the change in the mission settlements, when the padres were +sent away, all agriculture declined. During the Mexican War and when the +crowd of gold seekers came, there was very little grain or flour to be +had. Some of the gold hunters, who had been farmers in the East, failing +to find a fortune in the river sands, and seeing the lack of food +stuffs, went back to their old occupation. They put in crops of wheat +and barley along the waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and were +amazed at the fertility of the soil and the success of their venture. + +From this time the cultivation of wheat increased rapidly. In 1899 was +harvested the largest crop recorded. After that there was a decline in +wheat raising, because many farmers planted much of their grain lands to +fruit for canning and drying. To California inventors is due the credit +of substituting steam for hand labor in planting and harvesting grain. + +Let us look at the busy scene on a grain field in the California of +to-day. It is fall or early winter, and the time for planting has +arrived. Into the field, which is several thousands of acres in extent, +comes a great engine, one that does not need a track to run upon. Over +the ground it rolls. With strength equal to fifty horses it draws behind +it sixteen ten-inch plows, four six-foot harrows, and a press drill to +match. It takes only a few men to manage it, and in a short time it has +plowed, harrowed, and sown the broad acres; nothing is left to do until +the harvest time arrives. + +When the grain is ripe, there comes another great machine. This is the +harvester, whose knives or cutters may be as much as twenty-six feet +wide. This one machine cuts off the heads of wheat, thrashes them, +cleans the grain, and sacks it, clearing seventy-five acres in a day, +leaving on the fields the piles of sacked wheat ready for market. It +is most interesting to watch one of these giants of steel and iron +traveling over the uneven ground, crossing ditches, crawling along side +hills, without any trouble or change of pace, gathering in the ripe +grain, turning it out snugly tucked away in the brown gunny-sacks +waiting for its long journey by ship or car. How the padres would wonder +if they could see it working! + +The grain of the California wheat is white and soft, and contains much +gluten. No matter what hard red or yellow varieties are brought from +other countries and planted here, in a year or two they change to the +California type. It is not certainly known what causes this peculiarity. +The grain most in favor through the state is called “club wheat” from +the form of the head, which is blockshaped, instead of long and slender. +The “club wheat” holds fast its grain so that it can be harvested +without falling to the ground, which, in so dry a climate, is a great +point in its favor. + +Wheat is raised all over the state, both on high and on low land. Some +of the largest grain ranches are along the tule lands around Stockton. +These were marshes once, but have been drained, and now are choice grain +fields. Wheat was first sent out of the state to England as ballast for +returning ships, but the trade gradually increased until there are +now over one hundred of the finest sailing vessels engaged in it. +Unfortunately, few of these vessels are American, perhaps but one +fourth. It is a pity that our countrymen should not benefit more by this +trade. During the grain season at most of the Pacific ports the flag +of nearly every nation on earth is represented. All styles of shipping, +from the largest modern steamer to the smallest ocean sailing vessel, +are then to be found in the harbors of the coast. + +Grain is carried to the docks in barges, schooners, or on cars, and is +seldom shipped except in sacks. Wheat, unless it needs to be cleaned or +graded, is kept in the sack in which it leaves the home field. To watch +the grain being loaded in the ship is a sight well worth seeing. If the +wharf, or car, or warehouse where it lies is higher than the deck of the +vessel on which it is to be shipped, the sacks are placed on an inclined +chute down which they descend to the hold of the ship. If the deck of +the vessel is the higher, sometimes an endless belt, run by electricity, +is placed in a chute, the sacks are laid on the belt, and so carried to +their resting place. + +In loading wheat for export, a number of sacks in each row are bled; +that is, a slit is made in the sack which allows a small quantity of +grain to escape and fill the spaces round the corners and sides of the +sack, thus making a compact cargo which is not liable to shift. At Port +Costa is located a grader, where, when necessary wheat can be cleaned +and graded; here also are many large warehouses. + +For a long time about two thirds of the wheat crop of the state was +sent to Ireland, but now our new lands in the Pacific take much of +it. California has an immense trade in wheat that has been ground into +flour. Over six million dollars’ worth of flour is shipped each year, +nearly three fourths of it going to China, Japan, and the islands of the +Pacific. + +It is believed by scientific agriculturists that better results will be +obtained in wheat raising as smaller ranches become the rule, where the +farmer can give more attention to the needs of the grain, adding what +is necessary to the soil. Often the alternation of crops increases the +yield--wheat doing much better if planted where beans or other legumes +were raised the year before. Where the grain fields are not so large, +irrigation can be depended upon instead of the rainfall, and crops then +are sure and more even in quantity. + +Barley is the grain next in importance to wheat in California. It can +be raised where wheat can not, as it needs less moisture for its +development; and if the rains fail, it can be cut for hay which always +brings a good price. Barley hay, with the heads on, is in California the +chief food of horses, and in many cases of cattle. A horse for ordinary +work fed on barley hay gets all the grain necessary. If on account +of heavier work, stronger food is required, rolled barley is given in +addition. A large quantity of the better graded barley grain raised in +the state is used by the brewers for malt. + +Corn does not do so well through the state in general, but in some +locations it is justly claimed that a man can ride on horseback down +the rows of corn without being seen over the tops. This, too, the padres +brought into the state. The tortilla, the common food of the Spanish +settlers, was made of coarse-ground or pounded corn. + +Alfalfa, the wonderful forage plant of dry regions of the West, is a +member of the clover family. Throughout the southern and middle portion +of California are large ranches devoted to its culture for hay. It +is also raised extensively for green feed for horses and cattle. It +produces from three to six crops a year according to location and care +given it, and is treated for the market much the same as barley hay, +except that it is generally made into smaller bales. Alfalfa is +raised by irrigation, the best method being from flumes opening into +indentations, not so deep as furrows, from which the water spreads, +flooding the whole surface. + +Many a California young man from high school gets his first taste of +work away from home in the harvest fields. Generally this is a good +experience for him. He receives some pretty hard knocks, and sees the +rough side of life, but if he has self-control and good principles, he +will be the better for the venture, returning more manly, earnest, and +self-reliant. + + + +Chapter XIV + +The Golden Apples of the Hesperides + + + +The orange, like many other of California’s most valuable products, +was brought into the country by the patient, far-seeing padres. Orange, +lemon, and citron, those three gay cousins of royal blood, traveled +together, and soon were to be found in many of the mission gardens. The +most extensive of that early planting was an orchard at San Gabriel, +set out by Padre Sanchez in 1804. In the height of its prosperity, +this mission is recorded as having two thousand three hundred and +thirty-three fruit trees, a large proportion of which were orange +trees. San Fernando had sixteen hundred trees. San Diego had its orange +orchard: how many trees is not recorded, but its olive grove numbered +five hundred and seventeen flourishing trees. Santa Inez had nearly a +thousand trees. As early as 1800 Santa Barbara and San Buenaventura also +had valuable orchards. + +Outside the missions the first orange trees in any number were planted +in 1834, the famous Wolfskill grove in 1841. By 1862 there were about +twenty-five thousand trees of this variety in the state, and two thirds +of these belonged to Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. A little later several +large orchards were planted in the region around the Mission San +Gabriel. In Riverside, often called the mother of orange culture in the +state, the first seeds were planted in 1870, the first trees from these +seeds in 1873, and from that period is dated the beginning of extensive +planting. This was largely the work of colonists. About the time the +orchards came into bearing, the Southern Pacific and the Santa Fe +Overland were completed, so that an Eastern market was gained for the +fruit, with the result that the new industry fairly bounded forward. So +much was sometimes made from an acre of trees that it seemed as though +people could not get land and plant fast enough. Occasionally an income +was reported of three thousand dollars from an acre, and eight hundred +to one thousand dollars per acre was not an uncommon crop. + +Although at this time there were a few orange trees in the middle and +northern parts of the state, for many years it was supposed that only +the southern country could raise this fruit suitable for the market, but +to-day people know better. Excellent oranges are grown as far north as +Shasta, and Butte County, which leads in the northern orange culture, +has a number of large and valuable orchards. From Tulare County and +other parts of the valley of the San Joaquin, choice fruit is being +shipped to the markets of the East. From San Diego all the way up +the state one may find trees of the citrus family flourishing; still, +whether north or south, in planting an orange orchard, the greatest care +has to be taken in the choice of location. Jack Frost is the enemy to be +avoided, and generally in any strip of country the lower lands are the +ones he visits first. So the highlands are preferred, and even here the +currents of air must be studied. A strong, uninterrupted, downward sweep +of air from the snowcovered mountains will often, at night, drive away +the needed warmth gathered during the day, so that land protected by +some mountain spur which makes an eddy in the current is the best for +this heat-loving fruit. + +There are several popular varieties of the orange. The Valencia late is +being planted by many in preference to others because, besides being a +fine fruit, it keeps well, ripening when the days begin to be long +and hot, and is therefore doubly welcome. The sweet orange from the +Mediterranean country, and the St. Michael, with its paper rind, are +also favorites, as are the delicious little Mandarin and Tangerine +varieties, with their thin skin and high flavor; but the king of them +all is the Washington navel, which has gained for the state its high +position as an orange-raising territory. This is not a new variety, +though many may believe it so. A book published in Rome over three +hundred years ago gives an interesting description and pictures of this +and other kinds of oranges and the way they should be raised. The title +of this rare old volume is “Hesperides, or about the Golden Apples, +their Culture and Use.” Among its many fine illustrations is one of +Hercules receiving the golden apples. Another shows the bringing of the +fruit to Italy by a body of nymphs and goddesses in Neptune’s car. Mr. +Charles F. Lummis has translated portions of the book in the California +magazine Out West. + +On its travels the navel orange finally reached Bahia, Brazil, and +there, sometime during the Civil War in the United States, a lady +who, it is said, was the wife of the American consul, discovered the +deliciousness of this fruit. So pleased was she that she determined to +share her enjoyment with others; so upon her return to her own country, +she described this orange to Mr. Saunders, head of the government’s +experimental farm at Washington. He became interested in the subject, +sent to Bahia, and had twelve navel trees propagated by budding. These +were shipped to Washington, where they arrived safely, and were placed +in the orangery there. They all grew, and from them a large number of +trees were budded. + +Still they had not reached California. Bringing them to the Pacific +coast was also the work of a woman. Mrs. Tibbetts, wife of a fruit +grower of Riverside, was visiting in Washington and to her Mr. Saunders +presented two navel orange trees, which she brought home with her. They +were planted beside her doorstep in Riverside. The trees grew rapidly, +and when they bore fruit it did not take the California orange growers +long to discover that here they had a treasure of more value than the +largest nugget of gold ever found in the state. + +It was at a citrus fair in Riverside in 1879 that this golden king first +appeared before the world. Then from all over southern California came +orange men to get buds from these trees. Back home they went with the +precious bits of life. Acres of seedling oranges were quickly shorn of +their green crowns. Cut, cut, went knife and shears till only the stock +was left, and then into a carefully made slit in the bark was placed the +navel bud. It soon sprouted, and everywhere one could see the stranger +growing sturdily on its adopted stem. Thousands of buds were sold from +the two parent trees until there were hundreds of thousands of their +beautiful children growing all over the state, giving golden harvests. + +If we owe to two ladies the success of orange culture in California, it +was a third who saved the industry when ruin threatened it. For a +while all went merrily with the orange grower; then in some way, +from Australia, there came into the country an insect pest called the +cushiony scale, which settled on the orange trees and seemed likely to +destroy them. “What can be done to save our trees?” was the cry from +the people of the southland. What they did was to bring from Australia +a different visitor, the dainty bug called the ladybird. She was eagerly +welcomed. No one dreamed of bidding her, in the words of the old nursery +rhyme, “fly away home.” She was carried to the diseased orchards, where +she settled on the scale, and as it was her favorite food, she soon +had the trees clean again. In time other pests came to trouble vine +and fruit growers, but it is interesting to know that scientists +nearly always succeeded in finding some insect enemy of the troublesome +visitor, which would help the horticulturist out of his difficulties. + +In the business of orange-growing, success is due in a large measure to +care in the picking, packing, and shipping of the fruit--care even +in those little things that seem almost of no consequence. The more +particular Californians are to ship only the best fruit in the best +condition and properly packed, the higher prices will the fruit bring, +the higher reputation the state gain. + +The lemon industry comes closely second to the orange. This fruit does +not need so much heat as does the orange, but neither can it stand +so much cold. It needs more water, but it bears more fruit and can be +marketed the year round. The lemons not sold as fresh fruit are made +to yield such products as citric acid, oil of lemon, from which cooking +essences are made, and candied lemon peel. In this latter branch of the +trade, however, the citron is more generally used, though it is not of +so delicate a flavor. + +The pomelo, or grape fruit, is fast gaining in favor and increasing in +value. + +To the stranger who visits California the orange is the most interesting +of trees. To pick an orange with her own hands, and to pin on her breast +a bunch of the fragrant blossoms, is to an Eastern woman one of the most +pleasant experiences of her visit to the Golden State. + +In the history of the growth of southern California, and especially of +its orange culture, the use of water on the soil plays a prominent part. +It was the discovery that the most sandy and unpromising-looking land +became a miracle of fertility when subjected to the irrigating stream, +that caused the wonderful prosperity of the dry portions of the state. + +Irrigation, which means the turning of water from a well, spring, or +stream, upon land to promote the growth of plant life, has been used by +mankind for thousands of years. In Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico, +there are remains of irrigation canals made by people who lived so long +ago that we know nothing of their history. + +The padres who settled California were adepts in this science. In +founding a mission they always chose its site near some stream, the +water of which could be turned upon the cultivated fields; and the dams, +canals, and reservoirs which the padres constructed were so well built +that many of them have lasted until the present time. + +It will seem strange to many people to learn that the highest-priced, +most fertile farm lands in the United States are not to be found in the +rich valleys of the Eastern states or the prairies of the middle West, +but in the dry region between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. +Colorado, which belongs to the land of little rain, has in proportion to +its size the richest mines of any state in the Union, yet the product of +its farms, all irrigated, equals the output of its mineral wealth. + +All the flourishing towns of southern California depend for their +wonderful prosperity upon the fertility of the irrigated country +surrounding them. + +Trees and plants require water for their growth, but they do not +all need it in like quantity, nor at the same time; therefore, the +scientific farmer on arid lands, where there is an abundance of water +for irrigation, has an immense advantage over his Eastern brother who +depends for water upon the rainfall alone. + +While the valuable raisin crop of the Californian is drying in the sun +and the slightest shower would damage, or perhaps ruin it, just beyond +lies the orange orchard, the trees of which are suffering for water. +The fruit, the size of a large walnut, is still hard and green, and must +have an abundance of the life-giving liquid if it is to develop into the +rich yellow orange, filled with delicious juice, which adorns the New +Year’s market. How would our ranchman prosper if he depended upon rain? +As it is, he furrows his orchard from its highest to its lowest level; +then into the flume which runs parallel with the highest boundary of +the grove he turns the water from pipe or reservoir, and opening the +numerous little slide-doors or sluice-gates of the flume, soon has the +satisfaction of seeing each furrow the bed of a running stream, the +water of which sinks slowly, steadily, down to the roots of the thirsty +trees. After the water has been flowing in this manner for some hours, +it is shut off, for it has done enough work. In a day or two the +ranchman runs the cultivator over the ground of the orchard, leaving the +soil fine and crumbly and the trees in perfect condition for another six +or eight weeks of growth. + +The first attempts of the American immigrant at irrigation were very +simple--just the making of a furrow turning the water of a stream upon +his land. Then, as he desired to cultivate more land and raise larger +crops, his ditches had to be longer, often having branches. Soon +neighbors came in and settled above and below him. They too used of +the stream; there was no law to control selfishness, so there were +disagreements and bitter quarrels over the water. Lawsuits followed and +sometimes even fighting and murders. The remedy for this state of things +was found to be in a company ditch, flume, or reservoir, with the use of +water controlled by fixed laws. + +There are some crops, notably grapes, which are grown without +irrigation. The grapevine, instead of being treated as a climber, is +each year trimmed back to the main stem, which thus becomes a strong +woody stalk, often a foot or more in circumference, quite capable of +withstanding the heat and dryness of the atmosphere and of drawing from +the soil all the nourishment needed for the fruit. + +Wheat, barley, and oats, both as grain and as hay, are largely raised +without irrigation. Olives, and many deciduous trees, by careful +cultivation may flourish without water other than the rainfall; yet +notwithstanding this, for a home in southern California, land without a +good water-right is of little value. + +The wealth of the region is in a great measure in its expensive water +system, which, by means of reservoirs, dams, ditches, flumes, and +pipes, gathers the water from the mountain streams and conveys it to the +thirsty land below. + + + +Chapter XV + +California’s other Contributions to the World’s Bill of Fare + + + +By 1874 people in the Eastern states had begun to talk of California +canned fruits. Apricots and the large white grape found ready sale, but +California raisins, though on the market, were not in demand. That line +from the old game “Malaga raisins are very fine raisins and figs from +Smyrna are better,” represented the idea of the public; and figs, +raisins, and prunes eaten in the United States all came from abroad. But +how is it to-day? + +Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners of our Eastern friends owe much to +California. She sends the seedless raisins, candied orange and lemon +peel, the citron and beet sugar for the mince pies and plum puddings. +Her cold-storage cars carry to the winter-bound states the delicious +white celery of the peat lands, snow-white heads of cauliflower, crisp +string beans, sweet young peas, green squash, cucumbers, and ripe +tomatoes. For the salads are her olives and fresh lettuce dressed with +the golden olive oil of the Golden State. Of ripe fruits, she sends +pears, grapes, oranges, pomegranates. For desserts, she supplies great +clusters of rich sugary raisins, creamy figs, stuffed prunes, and +soft-shelled almonds and walnuts. All these and other delicacies +California gives toward the holiday making in the East. + +But it is not only to the homes of the wealthy that she carries good +cheer; to people who have very little money to spend, and those who +are far away from civilization, as soldiers, surveyors, woodmen, and +road-builders, California’s products go to help make palatable fare. +To these her canned meats, fish, and vegetables, and canned and dried +fruits, are very welcome. + +The canneries and fruit-packing establishments of the state bring in +many millions of dollars each year and give employment to a host of +people, a large number of whom are women and young girls. + +Most of the fruits California now raises came into the country with +the padres. Captain Vancouver tells us that he found at the Santa Clara +mission, at the time of his visit in 1792, a fine orchard consisting +of apples, pears, peaches, plums, apricots; and at San Buenaventura all +these with the addition of oranges, grapes, and pomegranates. Alfred +Robinson describes the orchards and vineyards of San Gabriel mission as +very extensive. Wine and brandy were made at most of the missions, San +Fernando being especially noted for its brandy. Guadalupe Vallejo tells +of bananas plantains, sugar cane, citrons, and date palms growing at +the southern missions. Palm trees were planted “for their fruit, for the +honor of St. Francis, and for use on Palm Sunday.” + +Not only did the padres enjoy fresh fruits from their gardens, but +raisins were dried from the grapes, citron, orange, and lemon peel were +candied, and much fruit was preserved. It is not recorded that they had +pumpkin pie in those days, but a small, fine-grained pumpkin was raised +extensively for preserves. It is still a favorite dainty among the +native Californians, and no Spanish dinner is complete without this +dulce, as it is called. Spanish-American housewives excel their American +sisters in the art of preserving. Pumpkin, peach, pear, fig, are all +treated in the same manner, being first soaked in lye, then thoroughly +washed and scalded in abundance of fresh water, and then cooked in a +very heavy sirup. The result of this treatment is that the outside +of the fruit is crisp and brittle, while the inside is creamy and +delicious. + +The first of California’s dried fruits to come before the public was the +raisin. Raisins are merely the proper variety of grapes suitably dried. +Some think that they are dipped in sugar, but this is not the fact. The +only sugar is that contained in the juice of the grape, which should +be about one fourth sugar. The only raisin grape for general use is the +greenish variety called the Muscat. The rich purple or chocolate color +of the raisin of the market is caused by the action of the sun while +the raisin is being cured. If dried in the shade the fruit has a sickly +greenish hue. The seedless Sultana is a small grape, fast coming into +favor for a cooking raisin. + +The proper planting of a raisin vineyard requires a large amount of care +and labor. But the summer is one long holiday, as there is little to do +to the vines from early May until August. Then comes picking time. From +all the country round gather men and women, boys and girls, and the work +begins. + +To be a successful raisin grower and packer, one must take care in +all little things. The workman who neglects to cut from the branch the +imperfect or bad grapes, or who lays the fruit in the trays so that +it will be in heaps or overlapped, is apt to be soon discharged. After +about a week of exposure to the sun and air, the grapes are turned by +placing an empty tray over a full one, and reversing the positions. Then +after a few days longer in the sun, the fruit goes to the sweat-box, a +hundred pounds to the box, and is placed in a room in the packing house, +where it lies about ten days. The bunches go into this room unequally +dried, with still a look and taste of grape about them, but after this +sweating process they come out uniform in appearance, rich, sugary, +tempting,--the raisins of commerce, with little suggestion of the fruit +from which they came. Then they are boxed. + +There are generally three grades: very choice clusters, ordinary and +imperfect bunches, and loose raisins. Raisins of the third class are +sent to the stemmer and a large proportion of them then go to the +seeder. Seeding raisins for mother and grandmother at holiday times +used to be the duty and pleasure of the older boys and girls of the +household. But seeding is now done by machinery. A machine will seed on +an average ten tons daily. Before entering the seeder the raisins are +subjected to a thorough brushing, by which every particle of dust is +removed. They are then run through rubber rollers which flatten the +fruit and press the seeds to the surface; then through another pair +of rollers, with wire teeth which catch and hold the seeds while the +raisins pass on down a long chute to the packing room, where women and +girls box them for market. + +With all fruits the drying process is much the same, though peaches, +apples, and pears are first peeled. California figs, when dried, +sell well. This is a fruit which is growing in favor, whether fresh, +preserved, or dried. Fruit canning is an interesting process. The fruit +is not boiled in sirup and then placed in cans, as is frequently the +custom in home preserving, but when peeled it is placed directly in the +cans, in which it receives all its cooking and in which it is finally +marketed. + +The raising of beets and the converting of them into sugar form an +industry which is growing rapidly, and is of the utmost importance to +the people of the Pacific slope. + +The canning of fresh vegetables is a new industry which is bringing into +the state a steady stream of money, and in addition is proving a double +blessing to thousands of people, both those who gain from it their +living, and those who could not otherwise have vegetables for food. A +sailor said recently that if he could not be a sailor he would do the +next best thing--can vegetables for other sailors. When Galvez +received the order from the king of Spain to found settlements in +Upper California, one of the chief reasons for so doing was that fresh +vegetables might be raised for the sailors engaged in the Philippine +trade. To-day the Philippines use a large portion of California’s canned +goods. + +In the southern counties olive orchards are being extensively planted. +Near San Fernando is the largest in the world, covering thirteen hundred +acres. Doctors have said that a liberal use of California olive oil will +do much to promote the good health of mankind, and it is thought by many +that the manufacture of olive oil will be one of the greatest industries +the state has known. + +Nut raising is keeping pace with fruit in importance. To an Eastern +person it seems strange to see nut-bearing trees cultivated in orchards; +though profitable, this method does away with the pleasures of nutting +parties. + +California’s crystallized fruits are in constant demand, especially for +the Christmas trade. This crystallizing is a process in which the juice +is extracted and replaced with sugar sirup, which hardens and preserves +the fruit from decay while still keeping the shape. + +One sometimes reads the saying, “Fresno for raisins, Santa Clara for +cherries and prunes, and the northern counties and mountain-ranches for +apples.” But in fact, California’s fruit industries are well distributed +over the state, and the really excellent work which is being done in all +sections will still advance as the people learn more of the necessary +details and methods. + +In spite of mistakes and experiments the steady progress on the +California ranches is being recognized. Of one of our leading fruit +growers, Mr. Eliwood Cooper of Santa Barbara, the Marquis of Lorne +writes in the Youth’s Companion: “He has shown that California can +produce better olive oil than France, Spain, or Italy, and English +walnuts and European almonds in crops of which the old country hardly +even dreams.” + +A history of California’s products would be incomplete without a +reference to him who is called the “Wonder Worker of Santa Rosa.” + “Magician! Conjurer!” are terms frequently applied to Mr. Luther +Burbank, the man who is acknowledged by the scientists of the world to +have done more with fruits and flowers than any other man. Mr. Burbank +waves his wand, and the native poppy turns to deepest crimson, the white +of the calla lily becomes a gorgeous yellow, rose and blackberry lose +their thorns, the cactus its spines. The meat of the walnut and almond +become richer in quality, while their shells diminish to the thinness of +a knife blade. + +Yet in these seeming miracles there is nothing of “black art” or sleight +of hand. The experiments of this wonderful man, the surprising results +he gains, are obtained, first by a close study of the laws of nature, +then, where he desires change and improvement, by assisting her process, +often through years of closest application and unceasing toil. He is a +man of whom it is truthfully said, “He has led a life of hardships, +has sacrificed self at every point, that he might glorify and make more +beautiful the world around him.” Any boy or girl who knows something +of how plants grow and reproduce themselves will find great pleasure in +following Mr. Burbank’s simple methods. + +It is only recently that his countrymen have begun to appreciate the +work of this great naturalist. A short time ago a resident of Berkeley, +a student and book-lover, one who knew Mr. Burbank but had given little +attention to his productions, was in Paris. While there he had the good +fortune to be present at a lecture delivered before a gathering of the +most eminent scientists of Europe. In the course of his address the +speaker had occasion to mention the name of Luther Burbank. Instantly +every man in the audience arose and stood a moment in silence, giving to +the simple mention of Mr. Burbank’s name the respect usually paid to the +presence of royalty. It is a name now known in all the languages of the +civilized world, and numbers of the wisest of the world’s citizens cross +the ocean solely to visit the busy plant-grower of Santa Rosa. + +Luther Burbank was born in Worcester, Massachusetts, in 1849, and while +yet a lad his strongest desire was to produce new plants better than +the old ones. His first experiment was with a vegetable. For the sake +of getting seed, he planted some Early Rose potatoes in his mother’s +garden. In the whole patch only one seed-ball developed, and this he +watched with constant care. Great was his disappointment, therefore, +when one morning, just as it was ready to be picked, he found that it +had disappeared. A careful search failed to recover the missing ball, +but as he thought the matter over, while at work, it struck Luther that +perhaps a dog had knocked it off in bounding through the garden. Looking +more carefully for it, he found the ball twenty feet away from the vine +on which it had hung. In it were twenty-three small, well-developed +seeds. These he planted with great care, and from one of them came +the first Burbank potatoes. The wealth of the country was materially +increased by this discovery; the wealth of the boy only to the amount of +one hundred and twenty-five dollars, which he used in attending a better +school than he had before been able to enjoy. + +In 1875 Mr. Burbank, to secure, as he said, “a climate which should be +an ally and not an enemy to his work,” moved to Santa Rosa, California. +For ten years of poverty and severe toil he was engaged, for the sake +of a livelihood, in the nursery business, making, in the meantime, such +experiments as he had time for. During the next twenty years, +however, Mr. Burbank was able to give nearly his whole time to his +nature-studies. His energy is tireless, and his aim is to supply to +humanity something for beauty, sustenance, or commerce better than it +has possessed. + +Perhaps among all his productions the greatest good to the world will +arise from the spineless cactus. The scourge of the American desert is +the cactus, commonly known as the prickly pear, the whole surface of +which is covered with fine, needlelike spines, while its leaves are +filled with a woody fiber most hurtful to animal life. When eaten by +hunger-crazed cattle it causes death. After years of labor Mr. Burbank +has succeeded in developing from this most unpromising of plants a +perfected cactus which is truly a storehouse of food for man and beast. +Spines and woody fiber have disappeared, leaving juicy, pear-shaped +leaves, weighing often twenty-five or fifty pounds, which, when cooked +in sirup, make a delicious preserve, and in their natural state furnish +a nourishing, thirst-quenching food for domestic animals. The fruit +of this immense plant is aromatic and delicate, and its seeds are at +present worth far more than their weight in gold, since from them are +to spring thousands of plants by means of which it is believed the +uninhabitable portions of the desert may be made to support numberless +herds of cattle. + +Another of Mr. Burbank’s achievements is the evergreen crimson rhubarb, +which is not only far less acid than the old variety, but richer in +flavor and a giant in size. + +The pomato, a tomato grown on a potato plant, is most interesting. The +plant is a free bearer, having a white, succulent, delicious fruit, +admirable when cooked, used in a salad, or eaten fresh as our other +fruit. + +The experiments with prunes conducted at the Santa Rosa ranch have been +of the greatest value to the state. For forty years the prune growers of +the Pacific slope had been searching for a variety of this fruit +which would be as rich in sugar and as abundant a bearer as the little +California prune of commerce, and yet of a larger size, and earlier in +its time of ripening. Mr. Burbank with his famous sugar prune filled all +these requirements, and revolutionized the prune industry of the state. +Besides this triumph he has succeeded in obtaining a variety of this +fruit having a shell-less kernel, so that the fruit when dried much +resembles those which are artificially stuffed. + +The flowers which Mr. Burbank has evolved by his methods, and those +which he has simply enlarged and glorified, are far too numerous to be +named here. + +In 1905 a grant of ten thousand dollars a year was bestowed upon Mr. +Burbank by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, D.C., for the purpose +of assisting him in his experiments. Seldom has money been better +placed. + + + +Chapter XVI + +The Hidden Treasures of Mother Earth + + + +Thousands of years ago, before the time of which we have any history, +there were rivers in California,--rivers now dead,--whose sides were +steeper and whose channels were wider than those of the rivers in the +same part of the world to-day. Rapid streams they were, and busy, too; +washing away from the rocks along their sides the gold held there, +dropping the yellow grains down into the gravelly beds below. After +a time there came down upon these rivers a volcanic outflow; great +quantities of ashes, streams of lava and cement, burying them hundreds +of feet deep, until over them mountain ridges extended for miles and +miles. + +Other changes in the earth’s surface took place, and in the course of +time our streams of to-day were formed. As they cut their way through +the mountain ranges, some of them crossed the channels of old dead +rivers, and finding the gold hidden there, carried some of it along, +rolling it over and over, mixed with sand and gravel, down into the +lower lands under the bright sunlight. Here it was found by Marshall and +the gold hunters who followed him. These were the placer mines of which +we read in Chapter VII. + +Gradually the best placer mines were taken up and the newcomers to the +gold fields traced the precious metal up the streams into the gravel +of the hillsides. Then was begun hydraulic mining, where water did the +work. In the canons great dams were constructed to catch the flow from +the melting snows of the mountains, and miles of flumes were built +to carry the water to the mining grounds. Immense pipes were laid and +altogether millions of dollars were invested in hydraulic mining. The +water coming down under heavy pressure from the mountain reservoirs +passed through giant hose which would carry a hundred miner’s inches, +and, striking the mountain side with terrific force, washed away the +earth from the rocks. Down fell the sand and gravel into sluices or +boxes of running water where cleats and other arrangements caught and +held the gold, which was heavy, while the lighter mixture was carried +out into the canyon. + +The material thus dumped on the mountain side was called debris, and +to any one living in the mining region of the state that word means +trouble--means fighting, lawsuits, ruin. For the debris did not stay +up in the canyon, but was washed down into the rivers, overflowing farm +lands, spoiling crops and orchards, and making the streams shallow, +their waters muddy. So great was the destruction this process caused +that, in 1893, the Congress of the United States enacted a law which +provided for the creation of a Debris Commission to regulate the +business of hydraulic mining in California. The result of the +investigations of this commission was to put a stop to all hydraulic +mining in territory drained by the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers, or +any other territory where the use of this form of mining should injure +the river systems or lands adjacent. Thus, almost in a moment, the +important industry was stopped. + +It is estimated that over one hundred million dollars were invested +in hydraulic mining. Much of this was entirely lost, as the expensive +machinery rusted and the water system fell into ruins. It was very hard +for the miners, as well as for the commerce of the state, but the act of +the government was based upon the principle that one man’s business must +not damage another man’s property. Clever engineers in the pay of the +government are still trying to find some way by which the debris can +be safely disposed of in order that this valuable system may resume +operation. + +Deprived of the use of water as their agent, gold hunters next tried +mining by drifts; that is, by tunneling into the mountain’s side until +the bed of a buried river is reached. These tunnels are often five +thousand to eight thousand feet long. The gold is brought out of the +ground before it is washed clean of the gravel. Sometimes it is mixed +with cement, when it has to be crushed in rollers before it can be +cleared of other material. The counties where drift mining is most in +operation are Placer, Nevada, and Sierra. + +Quartz mining is the most expensive manner of getting out gold, and a +great deal of valuable and complicated machinery has been invented for +this branch of the business. The quartz mines of California are among +the richest in the world, and some of the greatest fortunes of modern +times have been made from them. + +In a mine of this kind there is generally a shaft, or opening, +extending straight down into the earth, from which, at different levels, +passageways branch out where the veins of gold are richest. The openings +must be timbered to prevent caving in, and there must be pumps to remove +the water as well as hoisting works to take out the material. Then +on the surface, as near as possible to the mouth of the mine, must be +located the quartz mill. When possible, a tunnel is used in this mining, +which makes the handling of ore less expensive, for then there need be +no hoisting works or pumps, since the tunnel drains itself. + +Gold in quartz rock is generally in ledges or veins, one to three feet +in width. Digging it out is not very hard, save where there is not +enough room to stand upright and use the pick, or when, in a shaft deep +in the ground, the heat makes it difficult to work. A California boy at +the mines wrote recently: “Mining is not so bad; that is, if I could get +along without the occasional whack I bestow upon my left hand. Last +week I started a little tunnel and pounded my hand so that it swelled up +considerably. Drilling is not hard, and loading is a snap, but it’s +all interesting work and there is the excitement of seeing what you are +going to find next.” + +When the ore reaches the surface it is sent to the mill, where it is +first pulverized, then mixed with a chemical which goes about catching +up the grains of gold--arresting and holding them fast. It is quite +a long process before the gold is completely separated from all other +material and ready for shipment. Often the quartz contains other +minerals of value, the separation of which requires much work. + +There is a very rich mine in Nevada called the Comstock, which some +years ago had sunk its shafts so deep into the earth that it became +almost impossible for the miners to work on account of the great heat, +the bad air, and the quantity of water which had constantly to be +pumped out. How these troubles were remedied is the story of one of +California’s greatest and best citizens. Adolph Sutro was a Prussian +by birth, and his adopted state may well be proud to claim him. He had +built a little quartz mill in Nevada, near the Comstock mine. Seeing +the suffering of the workmen in all the mines on that mountain side, he +thought of a plan for the construction of a large tunnel which was to +begin at a low level at the nearest point of the Carson River and +run deep into the mountain so that it could drain all the rich mining +section, give good ventilation for the deep underground works, and +afford a much cheaper and more convenient way of taking care of the +ore. It was to be four miles long, with branches extending from it to +different mines. Its height was to be ten feet; width, twelve, with +a drainage trench in the center to carry away the waste water to the +Carson River, and tracks on each side for the passage of mules and cars. + +At first the mine owners were pleased with the project, and Mr. Sutro +succeeded in forming a company to build the tunnel. Then he went to +Washington, where the government became so interested in his plans that +on July 25, 1866, there was passed an act of Congress granting Sutro +such privileges in regard to public lands as would safeguard his work. +About the time that the news of this action reached the West, the men +who owned the mines and had made an arrangement for the use of the +tunnel, decided that they did not want the work done; it is said, for +the reason that they found Mr. Sutro too wise and far-seeing for them +to be able to manage him. At all events, with all their wealth and power +they tried to ruin him. They said that his plans were worthless, and +any one was foolish to invest in the tunnel company. Then Mr. Sutro, +by means of lectures upon the subject, appealed to the people. In +California, Nevada, the Eastern states, and even Europe, he told what +his plans would do for the miners and the good of the country. It was +not long before he gained all the help he needed, and the great work was +begun. + +As the workmen progressed into the mountain side there were many +difficulties to overcome. Day and night without ceasing the work went +on. Laborers would faint from the combined heat and bad air, and be +carried to the outer world to be revived. Carpenters followed the +drillers, trackmen coming closely after. Loose rock, freshly blasted, +was tumbled into waiting cars and hauled away over rails laid perhaps +but half an hour before. Constantly in the front was Sutro himself, coat +flung aside, sleeves rolled up. In the midst of the flying dirt, great +heat, bad air, dripping slush, and slippery mud he worked side by side +with the grimy, half-naked miners, thus showing himself capable not +only of planning a great work, but of seeing personally that it was well +done, no matter with what sacrifice to his own ease and comfort. + +After the tunnel was completed, Mr. Sutro sold his interest in it for +several millions of dollars. How that money was expended, any visitor to +San Francisco well knows. With it were built the great Sutro baths, +with their immense tanks of pure and constantly changing, tempered ocean +water, their many dressing rooms, their grand staircases, adorned with +rare growing plants, their tiers of seats rising in rows, one above +another, with room for thousands of spectators, and their galleries of +pictures and choice works of art. Over all is a roof of steel and tinted +glass. Nowhere else in America is there so fine a bathing establishment. + +Besides this there are the lovely gardens of Sutro Heights, developed +by Mr. Sutro’s money and genius from the barren sand-hills of the San +Miguel rancho. In addition to these is the choice library of about two +hundred thousand volumes, which is of great use to the people of San +Francisco. Perhaps neither San Francisco nor California has yet quite +appreciated the value of the work of Adolph Sutro. + +Since 1848 the state of California has sent to the United States Mint +over one billion dollars in gold. Of this, little Nevada County, which +seems to be worth literally her weight in gold, has sent over two +hundred and forty million. The Empire Mine is the leading producer of +California, but there are others nearly as rich. Nevada City is in the +center of this mining country. The streets are very hilly, and after +a heavy rain people may be seen searching the city gutters and +newly-formed rivulets for gold, and they are sometimes rewarded by +finding fair-sized nuggets washed down from the hills above. + +A visitor to one of the deep mines of California says:-- + +“We descended to the seven hundred foot level, where the day before a +pile of ore had been blasted down. A little piece of the quartz, crushed +in a mortar panned out four dollars in gold. I picked out one piece +of rock, not larger than a peach, and the manager, after weighing and +testing it, announced that it contained ten dollars in free gold. The +kick of a boot would reveal ore which showed glittering specks of pure +gold.” + +In the estimate of many people all very valuable mines are supposed to +be of gold, but this is a mistake. While gold is king in California, +copper mining is rapidly becoming of great importance. A continuous +copper belt, the largest yet discovered in the world, exists under her +soil, and while a comparatively small depth has been so far attained, +the profit has been considerable. One of the largest quicksilver mines +in the world is at New Almaden. The value of the output of the borax +mines is over a million dollars a year. There were mined in California +in 1907 over fifty different materials, most of them at a value of +several thousand dollars a year, with some as high as a million and +over. + +The mineral product of California outranking gold in value is petroleum, +which has added greatly to the wealth of the state. Natural gas and +mineral waters are also valuable commercial products. + +To many, the most interesting class among minerals is the gems, of which +California yields a variety. The beautiful lilac stone, Kunzite, was +discovered near Pala, San Diego County. This county has also some fine +specimens of garnets, and beautiful tourmalines are being mined at a +profit. San Bernardino County yields a superior grade of turquoise +from which has been realized as much as eleven thousand dollars a year. +Chrysoprase is being mined in Tulare County, also the beautiful new +green gem something like clear jade, called Californite. Topaz, both +blue and white, is being found, and besides these, many diamonds of +good quality have been collected, principally from the gravels of the +hydraulic mines. In 1907 there was discovered in the mountains of San +Benito County a beautiful blue stone closely resembling sapphire, more +brilliant but less durable. It was named, by professors of mineralogy in +the state university, Benitite, from the place where it was discovered. + +Perhaps the most valuable of all the products of California is its water +supply, either visible as in springs and streams, or underground as in +artesian water. Of its use in irrigation, we have already spoken. In the +production of electricity it is coming to be of the greatest importance, +making possible the most stupendous works of modern times. Such is +the undertaking of the Edison Electric Company in bringing down to Los +Angeles, over many miles of the roughest country, power from the Kern +River, tapping the tumultuous stream far up in the Sierras. The taking +of the necessary machinery to those heights was in itself a wonderful +labor. The power thus created is a blessing to a wide region. + + + +Chapter XVII + +From La Escuela of Spanish California to the Schools of the Twentieth +Century + + + +In no line has California advanced so far beyond the days of the padres +as in her schools. In the early settlements there were no educated +people but the priests at the missions and the Spanish officers with +their families at the presidios. Later, clever men of good families +came into the territory, took up land, and made their homes on the +great ranchos, but among these there were few who would take the time +or trouble to teach the children; so life to the young people was a long +holiday. The sad result was that they grew up so ignorant as to astonish +the educated strangers who visited the coast. + +At the missions the padres had schools where they taught the young +Indians something of reading and writing, religious services and songs, +and the trades necessary for life. This, with their duties in the church +and the extensive building and planting of the mission settlements, +took all the time of the hard-working priests. Occasionally, an educated +woman would teach her own children and those of her relatives, but like +most attempts at home education, it was so interrupted as to amount to +little. + +In 1794 a new governor came from Spain who was so shocked at this state +of affairs that he at once ordered three schools opened. The first, +December, 1794, was held in a granary at San Jose and was in charge of a +retired sergeant of the Spanish army. The children had been so long free +from all restraint that they did not like to go to school, and their +parents did not always take the trouble to insist. There were some +reasons for this, as the masters did not know much about what they were +trying to teach, and the use of the ferule and scourge (the latter a +whip of cords tipped with iron) was frequent and cruel. There were no +books but primers, and these were hard to obtain. The writing, paper was +furnished by the military authorities and had to be returned when the +child was through with it, that it might be used in making cartridges. +These schools were for boys only, girls not being expected to learn +anything except cooking, sewing, and embroidery. + +Slowly the state of things improved, and in 1829 in the yearly report +to the Mexican government, it was stated that there were eleven primary +schools in the province with three hundred and thirty-nine boys and +girls. One of the best of these schools was that of Don Ignacio Coronel +of Los Angeles. + +In 1846 the first American school was opened at Santa Clara by Mrs. +Oliver Mann Isbell. It provided for children from about twenty emigrant +families and was held in a room of the Santa Clara mission on the great +patio. The floor was of earth, the seats boxes; an opening in the tiled +roof over the center of the room allowing the smoke to escape when, on +rainy days, a fire was built on a rude platform of stones set in the +middle of the floor. Wherever the Americans lived, they would have +schools, although their first buildings were bare and inconvenient, +with no grace or adornment either inside or out. In some out-of-the-way +places, whole terms of school were spent most happily under spreading +live oaks. + +In the making of the first constitution, educational matters were not +forgotten; one section providing that there should be a common school +system supported by money from the sale of public lands. On account +of the minerals the lands so allotted were supposed to contain, it was +believed that they would sell for such vast amounts that the state would +have money sufficient for the grandest public schools that ever existed. +In fact these lands brought in altogether, after a number of years, +less than a quarter of a million dollars. The act provided also that +the schools be kept open three months in the year. An effort was made to +extend this period to six months, but was defeated by Senator Gwin. + +Considering the state of the country when the public schools were begun, +and the short time in which they have been developed, the California +free schools are a credit to the state and to the men and women who have +helped to make them what they are. No community is so poor and remote +but that it may have its school if the inhabitants choose to organize +for the purpose. Hardly can the settler find a ranch from which his +children may not attend a district school over which floats the stars +and stripes. + +Money for educational purposes is now raised by state and county +taxes on property, this sum, in cities, being largely increased by the +addition of the city taxes. High schools have only recently been given +state aid, and that moderately; the larger ones still depending, in a +great measure, upon the special tax of the city, district, or county, +according to the class to which the school belongs. The state supports +one Polytechnic school, that at San Luis Obispo, where there are three +courses, agriculture, mechanics, and domestic science. + +About 1878, in the endeavor to teach the children of the worst parts of +San Francisco a right way of living, the free kindergartens were begun. +Perhaps their success cannot be better shown than in the fact that +in the first year of the work along “Barbary coast,” one of the most +turbulent districts of the city, the Italian fruit and vegetable dealers +who lived there, brought the teachers a purse of seventy-five dollars, +because the children had been taught not to steal their fruits and +vegetables or to break their windows. The first free kindergarten was +started on Silver Street in “Tar Flats” and had for its teacher a pretty +young girl, with beautiful eyes and a mass of bronze-colored hair, whom +the ragged little urchins soon learned to adore. That little school was +the beginning of one of the best kindergarten systems in the country, +and the pretty young teacher is now Kate Douglas Wiggin, one of +America’s best loved writers, the author of those delightful books, +“The Birds’ Christmas Carol,” “Timothy’s Quest” and others equally +interesting. There have been many gifts to these kindergartens. In +memory of their only son, Mr. and Mrs. Leland Stanford gave one hundred +thousand dollars, while Mrs. Phoebe Hearst supported entirely three of +the schools. Kindergartens may now form part of the primary department +in the school system of any community so desiring, and are to be found +in most of the cities. + +Nothing in the educational work of California is of more importance than +the five normal schools, which graduate each year hundreds of teachers +thoroughly prepared in all branches for the important work of training +the children of the state. + +As the crown of the free school system, stands the state university at +Berkeley. Many an interesting story might be told of the noble men, +who as early as 1849 began their long struggle to gain for the youth of +California the chance for higher education. The Reverend Samuel Willey, +the American consul Mr. Larkin, and Mr. Sherman Day were leaders in +this enterprise. There was much against them; men’s thoughts were almost +entirely given to the necessities of everyday life, and few seemed +able to see that a grand and beautiful future was coming to the new +territory. The university secured its charter in 1868, but it was not +until the adoption of the new constitution in 1879 that it was placed on +a firm basis which could not be changed by each new legislature. + +The coming of Mr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler to the presidency was one of +the best strokes of fortune the institution has ever known. Under his +management it has taken a great stride forward. In the work it does, and +the high standard it demands, it takes its place side by side with the +best universities of the older Eastern states. The work of its college +of agriculture is becoming of great service to the farmer and fruit +grower. The result of its experiments in determining the best wheat for +the soil is of very great importance to the grain industry of the state. + +Connected with the university are: the Lick Observatory on Mount +Hamilton; the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, the Hastings College +of Law, and Colleges of Medicine, Dentistry, and Pharmacy, in San +Francisco; and an admirable University Extension Course which offers its +advantages to the people of any locality throughout the state who may +desire its help. + +One of the most practical and important associations in the state is +the Farmer’s Institute, which, under direction and control of the +university, holds a three days’ meeting once a month in each locality +throughout the state. Also, once a year, an institute of a week’s +duration is held at Berkeley, where eminent scientists give their +services, and the results are most helpful. + +The university has received many gifts from distinguished citizens. Mrs. +Phoebe Hearst has devoted much of her time and a large amount of her +money to its improvement, and plans are under way to make it the most +finished and beautiful educational institution ever owned by any state +or country. + +Barely one hour’s ride from San Francisco south, lies the Leland +Stanford Junior University, which at the time of its foundation, in +1885, was the greatest gift ever bestowed upon humanity by any one +person. In this noble movement Mr. and Mrs. Stanford were as one. Their +only son died in 1884, and the university is a memorial of him, a grand +example of the way in which those who are dead may yet live, through the +good done in their names. Although entirely a private benefaction, its +doors are open to students absolutely free of all tuition charges. + +This university started with a large endowment, but after the death of +Mr. Stanford, a lawsuit with the United States, and a shrinkage in the +value of the properties it owned, ran the finances so low that for a +short time it was found necessary to charge a small entrance fee. +Even then, the college was kept open only through the economy and +self-sacrifice of Mrs. Stanford and the members of the faculty, who +stood by the institution with noble unselfishness. By the year 1906 +the financial condition had become satisfactory and the attendance had +materially increased. Two handsome new buildings, one for the library +and the other for the gymnasium, were about completed when, on April +18, an earthquake, the most destructive ever experienced on the Pacific +coast, shook all the region around San Francisco Bay. Stanford suffered +severely: the two new buildings were ruined; so, too, was the museum and +a portion of the chemistry building. Both the noble arch and the +mosaics in the front of the memorial chapel were destroyed. Beyond +this, comparatively little damage was done to the college buildings. The +graduating exercises were postponed until the fall term; otherwise the +disaster did not interfere seriously with the routine of study, neither +did it affect the attendance in 1906-7, which was unusually large. +In the fall of 1907 President Jordan stated that he was empowered +to announce that Thomas Weldon Stanford, brother of Senator Leland +Stanford, had decided to give the university his own large fortune of +several millions. + +It is generally recognized that the university owes a great part of its +present success to the splendid talents and faithfulness of President +Jordan, who has given the hardest labor of the best years of his busy +life to helping it onward and upward. Its educational work is thorough, +and its requirements are being steadily raised. It stands for the +highest education that is possible. Addition is constantly being made to +its group of noble buildings. Beautiful Stanford is the sparkling jewel +in California’s diadem. + +Not far from the University of California in the suburbs of Oakland +is situated Mills College, which for many years was the only advanced +school for girls of which the state could boast. This institution had +its beginning as a seminary in Benicia, but was moved to its present +situation in 1871. In 1885 it became a college with a state charter. In +plan of studies and high Christian aim, it resembles Mount Holyoke, from +which many of its leading instructors have been graduated. + +There is no place here to speak of all the leading private schools of +the state. Throop Polytechnic in Pasadena, the Thatcher School in the +valley of the Ojai, and Belmont Military Academy are among the best. A +word, however, must be said in tribute to Santa Clara College, without +which the California youth of from twenty to forty years ago would have +been lacking in that higher education which stands for so much in +the making of a state. Incorporated in 1851, it was opened with funds +amounting to but one hundred and fifty dollars, yet it grew steadily. +With a clever Jesuit faculty, this college has done admirable work of so +thorough a character as to win the praise of all those who have come +in contact with its results. From it have been graduated such men as +Stephen M. White, Reginaldo del Valle, and many other of our leading +professional and business men. + + + +Chapter XVIII + +Statistics + + + +The state of California lies between the parallels 32¡ and 42¡ north +latitude, extending over a space represented on the eastern coast by the +country between Edisto Inlet, South Carolina, and the northern point of +Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Its northern third lies between 120¡ and 124¡ +26’ west longitude. From Cape Mendocino, its most westerly point, the +coast trends southeastward to San Diego Bay. The total coast line on the +Pacific is 1200 miles. + +The state’s greatest width is 235 miles, which is between Point +Conception and the northern end of the Amaragosa Range on the Nevada +line. It is narrowest between Golden Gate and the southern end of Lake +Tahoe. Its area is 158,297 sq. miles, second only to Texas of all the +states. + +The population of California, according to the United States census +of 1920, is 3,426,861, which has since been greatly increased. The +following table shows the counties of the State:-- + + + + +Counties of California + + Area Population Valuation + Name Origin and Meaning of Name + Sq. Mi. 1920 1910 of Property County Seat + + Alameda Sp., Shaded promenade + 764 344,127 246,131 128,681,766 Oakland + Alpine + 710 243 309 422,063 Markleeville + Amador Sp., Sweetheart + 632 7,793 9,086 4,918,908 Jackson + Butte Fr., Rounded, detached hill + 1,660 30,030 27,301 16,057,766 Oroville + Calaveras Sp., Skul’s (from Indian battle ground) + 1,080 6,183 9,171 6,177,285 San Andreas + Colusa Ind. + 1,088 9,290 7,732 12,188,096 Colusa + Contra Costa Sp., Opposite coast + 728 53,889 31,674 21,753,956 Martinez + Del Norte Sp., Of the North + 992 2,759 2,417 2,882,445 Crescent City + Eldorado Sp., The gilded (name given to fabled land of gold) + 1,796 6,426 7,492 4,668,840 Placerville + Fresno Sp., Ash tree + 6,152 128,779 75,657 34,302,205 Fresno + Glenn + 1,270 11,853 7,172 10,645,524 Willow + Humboldt (named for Baron von Humboldt) + 3,496 37,413 33,857 24,911,492 Eureka + Imperial + 4,200 43,383 13,591 El Centro + Inyo + 10,294 7,031 6,974 2,316,319 Independence + Kern + 8,050 54,843 37,715 24,050,871 Bakersfield + Kings + 1,176 22,032 16,230 7,883,009 Hanford + Lake + 1,328 5,402 5,526 3,258,020 Lakeport + Lassen + 4,520 8,507 4,802 4,590,748 Susanville + Los Angeles Sp., The angels + 4,200 936,438 504,132 169,268,166 Los Angeles + Madera Sp., Timber + 2,062 12,203 8,368 6,732,495 Madera + Marin Ind. + 549 27,342 25,114 14,489,582 San Rafael + Mariposa Sp., Butterfly + 1,510 2,775 3,956 2,270,246 Mariposa + Mendocino Sp., (from Mendoza, viceroy of Mexico) + 3,626 24,116 23,929 13,131,995 Ukiah + Merced Sp., Mercy + 1,932 24,579 15,148 14,877,086 Merced + Modoc Ind. + 3,741 5,425 6,191 4,076,680 Alturas + Mono Sp., Monkey, or pretty + 3,020 960 2,042 1,151,109 Bridgeport + Monterey Sp., King’s forest + 3,340 27,980 24,146 18,962,554 Salinas + Napa Ind. + 780 20,678 19,800 13,840,291 Napa + Nevada Sp., Heavy fall of snow + 972 10,850 14,955 7,203,349 Nevada City + Orange (named for its chief product) + 750 61,375 34,436 13,812 Santa Ana + Placer Sp., Loose (from placer mines) + 1,365 18,584 18,237 9,677,724 Auburn + Plumas Sp., Feathers + 2,694 5,681 5,259 2,792,091 Quincy + Riverside + 7,323 50,297 34,696 16,373,296 Riverside + Sacramento Sp., The Sacrament + 1,000 90,978 67,806 41,333,337 Sacramento + San Benito Sp., St. Benedict + 1,388 8,995 8,041 6,499,068 Hollister + San Bernardino Sp., St. Bernard + 19,947 73,401 56,706 21,392,228 San Bernardino + San Diego Sp., St. James + 4,278 112,248 61,665 20,807,594 San Diego + San Francisco Sp., St. Francis (of Assisi) + 47 506,676 416,912 564,070,301 San Francisco + San Joaquin Sp., name of a saint + 1,396 79,905 50,732 34,740,353 Stockton + San Luis Obispo Sp., St. Louis the Bishop + 3,310 21,893 19,383 13,680,235 San Luis Obispo + San Mateo Sp., St. Matthew + 434 36,781 26,585 18,999,564 Redwood City + Santa Barbara Sp., St. Barbara + 2,632 41,097 27,738 18,849,976 Santa Barbara + Santa Clara Sp., name of a saint + 1,286 100,588 83,539 61,390,817 San Jose + Santa Cruz Sp., Holy Cross + 424 26,269 26,240 12,560,071 Santa Cruz + Shasta Fr., Chaste, pure + 3,876 13,311 18,920 10,902,036 Redding + Sierra Sp., Sawtoothed Ridge + 960 1,783 4,098 1,844,560 Downieville + Siskiyou + 5,991 13,545 18,801 10,560,650 Treks + Solano Sp., name of a mission + 900 40,602 27,559 20,195,481 Fairfield + Sonoma Ind., Valley of the Moon + 1,620 51,990 48,394 30,380,419 Santa Rosa + Stanislaus + 1,456 43,557 22,522 12,834,108 Modesto + Sutter (named for J. A. Sutter) + 622 10,115 6,328 6,621,047 Yuba City + Tehama + 3,008 12,882 11,401 11,674,562 Red Bluff + Trinity + 3,282 2,552 3,301 1,651,362 Weaverville + Tulare Sp., Reed-covered + 4,952 59,032 35,440 17,447,042 Visalia + Tuolumne Ind., Stone wigwams + 2,208 7,768 9,979 7,089,725 Sonora + Ventura Sp. + 1,722 28,724 18,347 11,171,219 Ventura + Yolo Ind., Rushes + 996 17,105 13,926 17,640,436 Woodland + Yuba Sp., Uba, wild grapes + 636 10,375 10,042 5,898,350 Marysville + + + +List of Governors + + + + Gaspar de Portola, April, 1769 + Pedro Fages, July, 1770 + Fernando Rivera y Moncada, May 25, 1774 + Felipe de Neve, Feb. 3, 1777 + Pedro Fages, Sept. 1O, 1782 + Jose Romeu, April 16, 1791 + Jose Arrillaga, April 9, 1792 + Diego de Borica, May 14, 1794 + Jose Arrillaga, Jan. 16, 1800 + Jose Arguello, July 24, 1814 + Pablo de Sola, March 31, 1815 + + California became province of the Mexican Empire, April 11, 1822 + + Luis Arguello, Nov. 10, 1822, First native Governor. + + March 26, 1825, California became province of Mexican Republic. + + Jose Maria Echeandia, Nov. 8, 1825 + Manuel Victoria, Jan. 31, 1831 + Jose Maria Echeandia, Dec. 6, 1831 + Jose Figueroa, Jan. 15, 1833 + Jose Castro, Sept. 29, 1835 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Jan. 2, 1836 + Mariano Chico, May 3, 1836 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Sept. 6, 1836 + Jose Castro, Nov. 5, 1836 + Juan B. Alvarado, Dec. 7, 1836 + Manuel Micheltorena, Dec. 31, 1842 + Pio Pico, Feb. 22, 1845, to Aug. 10, 1846, end of Mexican rule. + + The following were Governors under Military Rule, U.S.A. + + John D. Sloat, July 7, 1846 + Robert F. Stockton, July 29, 1846 + John C. Fremont, Military Governor, Jan. 19, 1847, for 50 days + Stephen W. Kearny, Military Governor, March to May 31, 1847 + R. B. Mason, Military Governor, May 31, 1847 + Persifer F. Smith, Military Governor, Feb. 28, 1849 + Bennet Riley, April 12, 1849 + + + + Peter H. Burnett, Dec. 20, 1849, First State Governor, Democratic, + received 6716 votes, total vote, 12,064. + John McDougall, Lieutenant Governor, became Governor Jan. 9, 1851, + Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 8, 1852, Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 7, 1854, Democrat + John Neely Johnson, Jan. 9, 1856, American Party + John B. Weller, Jan. 8, 1858, Democrat + Milton S. Latham, Jan. 9, 1860, Democrat + John G. Downey (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Jan. 14, 1860, + Democrat + Leland Stanford, Jan. 10, 1862, Republican + Frederick F. Low, Dec. 10, 1863, Union Party + Henry H. Haight, Dec. 5, 1867, Democrat + Newton Booth, Dec. 8, 1871, Republican + Romualdo Pacheco (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Feb. 27, 1875, + Republican (native state Governor) + William Irwin, Dec. 8, 1875, Democrat + Geo. C. Perkins, Jan. 8, 1880, Republican + Geo. Stoneman, Jan. 10, 1883, Democrat + Washington Bartlett, Jan. 8, 1887, Democrat + Robert W. Waterman (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Sept. 13, 1887, + Republican + H. H. Markham, Jan. 8, 1891, Republican + James H. Budd, Jan. II, 1895, Democrat + Henry T. Gage, Jan. 4, 1899, Republican + Geo. C. Pardee, Jan. 7, 1903, Republican + James N. Gillett, Jan. 9, 1907, Republican + Hiram W. Johnson, January, 1911, Republican; reelected on Progressive + ticket, 1914 + William D. Stephens (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated March 15, 1917, + Progressive + + + +Electoral Vote + + + + 1852, Democratic, 4 votes + 1856, Democratic, 4 votes + 1860, Republican, 4 votes + 1864, Republican, 5 votes + 1868, Republican, 5 votes + 1872, Republican, 6 votes + 1876, Republican, 6 votes + 1880 Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 5 votes + 1884, Republican, 8 votes + 1888, Republican, 8 votes + 1892, Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 8 votes + 1896, Republican, 8 votes + Democratic, People’s and Silver parties, 1 vote + 1900, Republican, 9 votes + 1904, Republican, 9 votes + 1908, Republican, to votes + 1912, Democratic, 2 votes + Progressive, 11 votes + 1916, Democratic, 13 votes + 1920, Republican, 13 votes + + + + +Bibliography + + Bancroft--“History of California,” vols. I, II, Ill, IV, V, VI, VII. + Bancroft--“California Pastoral.” + Bancroft--“History of North Mexican States.” + Hittell--“History of California,” vols. I, II, III, IV. + Royce--“History of California.” + Blackmar--“Spanish Institutions of the Southwest.” + Montalvo--“Sergas of Esplandian.” Translator, E. E. Hale, Atlantic + Monthly, Vol. XIII, p. 265. + Vancouver--“Voyage of Discovery to the Pacific Ocean,” vol. III. + Geronimo Boscano--“Chinigchinich,” “History of Mission Indians.” + Translator, + Alfred Robinson--“Life in California.” + Francisco Palou--“Life of Fray Junipero Serra.” + Junipero Serra--“Diary.” Translated in magazine Out West, March-July, + 1902. + Hakluyt--“Drake’s Voyages.” + Vanegas--“History of California.” + Davis--“Sixty Years in California.” + Colton--“Three Years in California.” + Fremont--“Memoirs.” + Sherman--“Memoirs.” Century Magazine, vols. 41-42. + Stoddard--“In the Footsteps of the Padres.” + Lummis--“The Right Hand of the Continent.” Series, Out West Magazine, + 1903. + Lummis--” Spanish Pioneers.” + Jackson--“A Century of Dishonor.” + Jackson--“Ramona.” + California Book of Louisiana Purchase Exposition. + + + + +Index + + + + Abalone, 22 + Acapulco, 68 + Admission to the Union, 179-182 + Adobe, 93 + Alameda, 182 + Alaska, 214 + Alba, 110 + Alcalde, 104, 108, 173, 174 + Alfalfa, 244 + Afileria, 209 + Alta, 86 + Alvarado, 125, 133, 134, 136 + American government of California, 173-179 + American River, 150 + Americans in California, 129, 134, 140-146, 149 + Anaheim, settled, 212 + Anian, Strait of, 53, 62 + Apricots, 256 + Area, 289 + Arguello, Captain Lulls, 128, 131, 132 + Arguello family, 145 + Arroyo Seco, 97, 146 + Ascension, Padre, 8, 670 + Atole, 94 + Avalon, 68 + Ayala, Lieutenant, 88 + Bahia, 249 + Bailey, W. F., quoted, 185 + Bananas, 257 + Bancroft, quoted, 206 + Bandini, aids Americans, 145 + Bandini, Dona Arcadia, quoted, 137 + Bandini, Mrs., makes flag, 146 + Barley, 255 + Bautista, 134 + Bear Flag Republic, 142 + Beets, 260 + Belmont Military Academy, 287 + Benitite, 277 + Benton, Senator, 182, 195 + Berkeley, State University at, 283 + Bidwell, quoted, 166 + Bolero, 116 + Bonito, 22 + Borax, 276 + British, visit California, 130 + Broderick, David C., 190, 191 + Buffalo Bill, 186 + Burbank, Luther, 262-266 + Burnett, Peter, 181 + Butte County, oranges in, 247 + Cable, Pacific, 225 + Cabo de Pinos, 55 + Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez, 48-56, 72 + Cacafuegos, 60 + Cactus, 265 + Cahuenga, treaty of, 146, 148 + Calaveras grove, 235 + Calhoun, 179 + California, area of, 289 + California, climate of, 13-18 + California, geography of, 13,14 + California, name, origin of, 11, 12 + California Column, 198 + California Lancers, 193 + Californite, 276 + Camisa, 116 + Canneries, 257, 260, 261 + Cape Mendocino, 67 + Capitol, 204 + Carmelo River, 71, 87 + Carmenon, Sebastin, explorations of, 67 + Carne seco, 101 + Carquinez, Strait of, 14 + Carreta, 116, 118, 213 + Carrillo, in convention, 177 + Castillo, Domingo, map of, 12 + Castro, General, 139, 140, 142 + Cattle raising, 108, 113 + Celery, 256 + Central Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + Chagres, Panama, 163 + Chamisso, Albert von, 182 + Chapman, 125, 126 + Cherries, 262 + China, war with Japan, 223 + Chinese, in California, 202, 203 + Chinese, work on railroad, 198 + Chinigchinich, 25, 33-36, 45, 47 + Chippa, 43-45 + Cholos, 138 + Cigaritos, 109 + Citron, 246, 256 + Civil War, 180, 189-194 + Clay, Henry, 178 + Cleeta, 19-29, 45-47 + Climate, 13-18 + Club wheat, 242 + Cody, Mr., 186 + Coloma, mill near, 150 + Columbia, and Panama Canal, 222 + Colony days, 211-214 + Colton, Rev. Walter, 173, 174 + Colton, quoted, 203 + Comandante, 136 + Comstock mine, 271 + Concepcion de Arguello, 130, 131 + Conquest of California, 139-146 + Constitution of 1849, 178 + Constitution of 1879, 203 + Constitutional Convention of 1849, 177 + Cooper, Ellwood, 262 + Copper mining, 276 + Corn, 244 + Coronel, Don Ignacio, school of, 280 + Cortez, Hernando, 12, 53, 74 + Cotopacnic, 46 + Counties, 290, 291 + Cradle, used in mining, 158 + Crespi, Juan, 75, 100 + Crocker, Charles, 197-199 + Cuatrito, 117 + Cuchuma, 22, 26, 32, 35, 45 + Cushiony scale, 250 + Day, Sherman, 284 + Debris, 268 + Del Valle, Reginaldo, 288 + Dewey, Commodore, in Spanish war, 217 + Dios, 110 + Dolores mission, 88 + Donner party, 167 + Dragontea, 57 + Drake, Sir Francis, 57-66, 12, 73 + Drakes Bay, 63 + Dress of early Californians, 115, 116 + Dried fruits, 260 + Drift mining, 269 + Dulce, 258. + Earthquake (1906), 225-228 + El Camino Real, 95 + El Refugio, 125 + Empire mine, 274 + England, explorations, 59-66 + Escuela, 279 + Explorations, 48-73, 81-83 + Farallones, 81 + Farmer’s Institute, 285 + Ferrelo, 56, 57, 85 + Festivals, 126 + Fiesta, 126 + Figs, 260 + Flores, General, 146 + Flour trade, 243 + Forests, 229-236 + Forty-niners, 156, 172 + Fremont, Captain, 139-143, 146 + Fremont, dispute with Kearny, 148, 149 + Fremont, elected senator, 178 + Fremont, explorations, 139, 107, 195 + Fremont, on land question, 182 + French, visit California, 129 + Frijoles, 98 + Fruit, 246-263 + Fruit, canned, 257, 260 + Fruit, crystallized, 261 + Fruit, dried, 260 + Fruit, preserved, 258 + Fugitive Slave Law, 190 + Galli, Francisco, 66 + Galvez, Jose de, 75-78, 84, 87 + Gems, 276 + Gente de razon, 124 + Gentiles, 80 + Gesnip, 19-33, 38-47 + Gicamas, 70 + Gigantea, 234 + Gillespie, 140, 143, 146 + Gold, discovered, 147, 151, 155 + Gold, early mining, 154-160 + Gold, modern mines, 267-271, 274 + Golden Hind, ship, 66 + Governors, list of, 292 + Graham, 133, 134 + Grain, 238-245 + Grape fruit, 252 + Grapes, 254, 258-260 + Guam, 225 + Gwin, in convention, 177 + Gwin, senator, 178, 189, 190, 281 + Hague, 220, 221 + Harte, Bret, 180, 200 + Harvester, 240 + Hawaii, 218-220, 225 + Hearst, Mrs. Phoebe, 283, 285 + Hecox, Mrs., quoted, 171 + Hittell, quoted, 205 + Hopkins, Mark, 197 + Huntington, Collis P., 197, 198 + Huntington, H. E., 239 + Hydraulic mining, 160, 268, 269 + Ide, 141. + Immigration after 1848, 156, 161-172 + Indian Bar, 184 + Indians, aborigines, 19-47, 54, 63, 64 + Indians, baskets, 43-45 + Indians, boats, 39 + Indians, clothing, 21, 31, 32, 33, 43, 63 + Indians, food, 28, 29, 38, 42, 45-47 + Indians, houses, 26 + Indians, hunting, 23-25, 42, 43 + Indians, myths, 80, 45 + Indians, worship, 33-36 + Indians in Santa Catalina, 70 + Indians, mission, 91-105, 127 + Indians, on ranches, 110-112 + Indians, recent history, 206-208 + Irrigation, 245, 252-255 + Isadora, 138 + Isbell, Mrs. Oliver Mann, 280 + Jacal, 26 + Japan, 223-225 + Jesuits in New Spain, 76 + Jiminez, 53 + Jones, Commodore, 136, 137 + Jones, W. C., 182 + Jordan, President, 287 + Juan, 48, 51, 52, 56 + Judah, Theodore D., 196-198. + Kahhoom, 43-45 + Kearny, General Stephen, 145, 148, 149 + Kern River, electric power from, 278 + Kindergartens, 282 + King, Thomas Starr, 192 + Klamath, 37, 38 + Korea, 223 + Kotzebue, Otto von, 132 + Kunzite, 276 + Ladybird, 250 + La Fiesta, 126 + Laguna rancho, battle of, 146 + Laguna rancho, sheep on, 210 + Land question, 182, 183 + La Perouse, 129 + La Posesion, 55 + La Purisima mission, 89 + Larkin, consul, 136, 137,139, 284 + Leland Stanford Junior University, 285-287 + Lemons, 245, 251 + Lick Observatory, 284 + Lollah, 30 + Lopez, Juan, 147 + Lorne, Marquis of, quoted, 262 + Los Angeles, beginnings of, 107, 108. + Los Angeles, captured by Americans, 143 + Los Angeles, church built by Chapman, 125 + Los Angeles, during Civil War, 194 + Los Angeles, in colony days, 213 + Los Angeles, Kern River power, 278 + Los Angeles, old palms in, 144 + Los Angeles, State Normal School, 283 + Lumber, 229-236 + Lummis. Charles F., author, 249 + Macana, 22, 27, 28, 31, 32, 37, 38, 41, 42, 44, 46 + Machado, Agustin, 122 + McKinley, President, 218, 220 + Maestro, 113 + Mahan, Captain, quoted, 220 + Malaga, 256 + Manchuria, 223 + Mandarin orange, 248 + Manila, cable to, 225 + Manila, trade, 67, 74, 77 + Manila Bay, battle, 217 + Marin County, 226 + Mariposa grove, 234 + Marshall, James, 150-153 + Mason, Colonel, 149, 154 + Mayor domo, 110 + Mendocino, Cape, 67 + Mendoza, 72 + Merced River, 160. 111 + Mexican government of California, 124 + Mexico, dispute over Plus Fund, 221 + Mexico, revolt against Spain, 122, 124 + Mexico, war with the United States, 134-135, 140, 174 + Micheltorena, Governor, 137 + Millay, 48 + Mills College, 287 + Mines, modern, 267-277 + Missions, 76-105 + Missions, aid government, 123 + Missions, irrigation, 252 + Missions, orchards, 257, 258 + Missions, schools at, 279 + Missions, secularized, 103-105, 126 + Missions, wheat raising, 237-239 + Modocs, 208 + Monterey, attacked by pirate, 125 + Monterey, captured by Jones, 186, 137 + Monterey, captured by Sloat, 143 + Monterey, mission founded at, 85 + Monterey, presidio of, 87 + Monterey Bay, discovered, 55, 71 + Monterey Bay, Portola at, 81 + Mountains, 18-16 + Muchachas, 110, 112 + Muchchos, 110 + Murphy, Virginia Reed, quoted, 168 + Muscat grape, 258 + Mussel Slough District, 201 + Nahal, 31 + Nakin, 29, 47 + Native Sons of the Golden West, 205 + Navel orange, 248-250 + Nevada City, 274 + Neve, Felipe de, 107 + New Albion, 64 + New Almaden, quicksilver mines, 276 + Nihie, 35, 36 + No-fence law, 211 + Nopal, 29, 32-36, 40, 41, 43 + Normal schools, 283 + Nuts, 257, 261, 262 + Oats, 255 + Ojai, 287 + Olives, 246, 255, 261 + Ollas, 22, 26, 85 + Oranges, 246-254 + Oregon, voyage of the, 216, 217 + Oregon Country, 135 + Ortega, discovers San Francisco bay, 82, 83 + Ortega, rancho attacked, 125 + Otter hunting, 132, 183 + Outdoor life, 17, 18 + Outlaws, 214 + Pacheco, Governor, 205 + Pacific cable, 225 + Pacific Ocean, importance of, 18, 217 + Padres, 51, See Missions + Pala, chapel, 89 + Palou, Francisco, 75, 79, 88, 100 + Panama Canal, 221 + Panocha, 120 + Papas pequenos, 70 + Pasadena, settled, 212 + Pastorel, 97 + Patio, 94 + Patron, 111 + Patrona, 110, 112 + Payuchi, 25-47 + Pepe, 49, 50 + Pesos, 60 + Petroleum, 276 + Peyri, 95, 96 + Philippine trade, 58, 71-78, 201 + Philippines, 217, 218 + Pico, General Andres, 145, 146, 148 + Pinos, Point, 55, 71, 80, 81 + Pius Fund, 76, 220 + Placer mines, 347, 158, 268 + Plaza, 107 + Pocket, in placer mining, 180 + Pomato, 265 + Pomelo, 252 + Pony express, 185-188 + Port Costa, wheat grader at, 243 + Portola, Captain, 77-80, 88-85 + Prairie schooner, 170 + Preserved fruit, 258 + Presidios, 85, 108 + Prunes, 262, 266 + Pueblos, 106-108 + Pumpkin, preserved, 258 + Quartz mining, 270 + Quicksilver, 276 + Railroad, 196-201, 205, 206 + Rainfall, 14, 16 + Raisins, 250, 258-260 + Ramirez, 177 + Ranch life, 109-127 + Rancheros, 121, 122, 183 + Ranches, modern, 262 + Ranchos, 109 + Rebosa, 118 + Reyes, Point, 67, 81-88 + Rezanof, Count, 130, 181 + Rhubarb, 205 + Riley, Governor, 176 + Riverside, founded, 212 + Riverside, oranges at, 247, 249, 250 + Robinson, Alfred, quoted, 257 + Rodeo, 113, 114 + Roosevelt, 222, 224, 225 + Ross, Fort, 131, 133 + Routes to California, 101-172 + Rurik, ship, 182 + Russia, sells Alaska, 215 + Russia, war with Japan, 224 + Russians in California, 131-133 + Sacramento, founded, 133 + Sacramento, pony express at, 186 + Sacramento, railroad begun, 198 + Sacramento valley, 239, 269 + St. John de Anton, 61 + St. Michael orange, 248 + Sal, Point, 130 + Salinas River, 189 + San Agustin, 67 + San Antonio mission, 87 + San Antonio, ship, 79, 83-85 + San Benito County, benitite in, 277 + San Bernardino County, gems in, 276 + San Bruno, 182 + San Buenaventura mission, 89, 99 + San Buenaventura mission, fruit trees, 246, 257 + San Carlos, ship, 79, 88, 287 + San Carlos de Borromeo mission, 85, 86, 100, 120 + San Diego, captured by Americans, 143-146 + San Diego Bay, discovered, 50, 68 + San Diego mission, 80, 92 + San Diego mission, fruit trees, 248 + San Diego mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Diego mission, wheat, 287 + San Diego presidio, 108 + San Diego, ship, 68 + San Fernando mines, 148 + San Fernando mission, 89,90 + San Fernando mission, brandy, 257 + San Fernando mission, fruit trees, 246 + San Francisco, city named, 153 + San Francisco, disorder in (Vigilantes), 184 + San Francisco, during Civil War, 192, 198 + San Francisco, earthquake and fire, 226-228 + San Francisco, gold excitement, 158, 154 + San Francisco, growth after 1848, 156 + San Francisco, in war of 1898, 218 + San Francisco, kindergartens, 282 + San Francisco, pony express at, 186 + San Francisco, Sutro baths, etc., 273, 274 + San Francisco Bay, discovered, 88, 87, 88 + San Francisco mission, 87, 88 + San Francisco presidio, 108 + San Gabriel mission, 87,90 + San Gabriel mission, Chapman at, 125, 120 + San Gabriel mission, mill at, 239 + San Gabriel mission, orchards, 246, 257 + San Gabriel mission, wheat, 237 + San Gabriel River, battle of, 146 + San Joaquin Valley, 239, 247, 269 + San Jose, beginnings of, 107 + San Jose, early school at, 280 + San Jose, earthquake, 226 + San Jose mission, 89, 121 + San Jose mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Jose, ship, 83 + San Juan Bautista mission, 89 + San Juan Capistrano mission, 89, 98 + San Juan Capistrano mission, attacked by pirate, 125 + San Luis Obispo mission, 87 + San Luis Obispo Polytechnic School, 282 + San Luis Rey mission, 89, 95 + San Mateo, 182 + San Miguel, Cabrillo at, 50, 55-57 + San Miguel mission, 89, 123 + San Pasqual, battle, 145, 146 + San Pedro, Bay-of, discovered, 54, 71 + San Rafael mission, 89 + San Salvador, 53 + San Tomas, ship, 68, 71, 72 + Sanchez, Padre, 246 + Sanitary Commission, 192 + Santa Barbara mission, 89 + Santa Barbara mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Barbara presidio, 108 + Santa Catalina, 22 + Santa Catalina, discovered, 53, 68 + Santa Clara College, 288 + Santa Clara mission, 89 + Santa Clara mission, Indian revolt, 102 + Santa Clara mission, orchards, 257 + Santa Clara mission, school at, 280 + Santa Cruz, town founded, 107 + Santa Cruz mission, 80 + Santa Fe, 78 + Santa Inez mission, 89 + Santa Inez mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Rosa, 226, 264, 266 + Saunders, and navel oranges, 249 + Scale, orange, 250, 251 + School taxes, 282 + Schools, early, 113, 279-281 + Schools, modern, 281-288 + Sempervirens, 230, 234 + Senor, 56, 133 + Senora, 213 + Senorita, 213 + Sequoias, 230-235 + Sequoya League, 208 + Serra, Junipero, 75-80, 83-88, 102 + Serra, Junipero, death of, 100 + Serra, Junipero, work of, 91, 92 + Seward, 179, 214, 215 + Shasta, oranges in, 247 + Shasta, Mount, 275 + Sheep Industry, 209-211 + Sherman, Wm. T., 149, 151, 164 + “Shirley,” quoted, 184 + Sholoc, 22-82, 85, 36, 89, 46, 47 + Shumeh, 31 + Sierra Nevada, 14, 16, 56, 100, 282 + Slavery struggle, 175-179, 190 + Sloat, Commodore, 142, 148 + Soil, 16, 18 + Solano mission, 89 + Soledad mission, 89 + Sombrero, 111 + Sonoma, captured, 141 + South Sea, 58 + Southern Pacific Railroad, 201,290 + Spain, colonies, 75, 77 + Spain, colonies, explorations, 48-57, 66-73, 81-83 + Spain, colonies, revolt against, 122, 124 + Spain, colonies, trade laws, 119-122 + Spanish government of California, 77, 122 + Spanish-American War, 215-219 + Stampede of 1849, 161 + Stanford, Leland, gifts for education, 283, 286 + Stanford, Leland, governor, 193 + Stanford, Leland, railroad work, 197-200 + Stanford, Mrs. Leland, 283, 286 + Stanford, Thomas Weldon, 287 + Stanford University, 285-287 + Steamboat, first in California, 155 + Stearns, Don Abel, 137, 147, 148 + Stock raising, 108, 113 + Stockton, Commodore, 143, 146, 148 + Stockton, grain center, 242 + Sugar, 260 + Sultana grape, 239 + Sutro, Adolph, 271-274 + Sutro baths, 273, 274 + Sutter, Captain John, 133, 150-152 + Sutter’s Fort, 133 + Sutter’s mill, 150, 153 + Tamales, 209 + Tangerine orange, 248 + Telegraph, 195 + Texas, 134, 135 + Thatcher School, 287 + Throop Polytechnic School, 287 + Tibbetta, Mrs., and navel oranges, 249 + Titas, 45 + Tomales, 226 + Tortilla, 93,111, 244 + Trade, early, 119-122 + Tres Re yes, ship, 68, 82, 83 + Trist, 175 + Tsuwish, 43, 45 + Tuscon, 206 + Tulare County, products, 247, 276 + Tules, 30, 31, 35, 39, 40 + Tuolumne grove, 284 + Union Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + United States, conquers California, 134-146 + University of California, 283-285 + Valencia late orange, 248 + Vallejo, General, 125 + Vallejo, General, captured, 141 + Vallejo, General, in convention, 177 + Vallejo, General, loses land, 183 + Vallejo, General, quoted, 118, 148 + Vallejo, Senorita Guadalupe, quoted 118, 121, 183, 257 + Vancouver, Captain, 130 + Vancouver, Captain, quoted, 257 + Vanquech, 35 + Vaquero, 111 + Vasques, 214 + Vegetables, 256, 257, 261 + Ventura, Cabrillo at, 54 + Vera Cruz, 74, 75 + Vigilantes, 184, 185 + Vizcaino, Don Sebastian, explorations of, 68-73 + Wash-day expedition, 118 + Webster, Daniel, 176, 179 + Westminster, settled, 212 + Wheat, 237-245, 255 + Wheeler, Benjamin Ide, 284 + White, Stephen M., 288 + Whitman, Walt, quoted, 219 + Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 282 + Willey, Rev. Samuel, 284 + Wolfskill grove, 246 + Yerba Buena, 152 + Yosemite, 238 + Zanja, 94 + + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s History of California, by Helen Elliott Bandini + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + +***** This file should be named 7778-0.txt or 7778-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/7/7/7778/ + +Produced by David A. Schwan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: History of California + +Author: Helen Elliott Bandini + + +Release Date: March, 2005 [EBook #7778] +This file was first posted on May 16, 2003 +Last Updated: May 21, 2013 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Produced by David A. Schwan + + + + + + + + +HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA + + +By Helen Elliot Bandini + + + +Illustrated By Roy J. Warren + +B. Cal. W. P. 16 + + + + +Preface + + + +This book is an attempt to present the history of California in so +simple and interesting a way that children may read it with pleasure. +It does not confine itself to the history of one section or period, but +tells the story of all the principal events from the Indian occupancy +through the Spanish and Mission days, the excitement of the gold +discovery, the birth of the state, down to the latest events of +yesterday and to-day. Several chapters, also, are devoted to the +development of California's great industries. The work is designed not +only for children, but also for older people interested in the story of +California, including the tourists who visit the state by the thousand +every year. + +For her information the writer has depended almost entirely upon source +material, seldom making use of a secondary work. Her connection with the +old Spanish families has opened to her unusual advantages for the study +of old manuscripts and for the gathering of recollections of historical +events which she has taken from the lips of aged Spanish residents, +always verifying a statement before using it. She has, also, from long +familiarity with the Spanish-speaking people, been able to interpret +truly the life of the Spanish and Mission period. + +The illustrator of the history, Mr. Roy J. Warren, has made a careful +study of the manuscript, chapter by chapter. He has also been a faithful +student of California and her conditions; his illustrations are, +therefore, in perfect touch with the text and are as true to facts as +the history itself. + +The thanks of the author are due not only to a host of writers from whom +she has gained valuable assistance, and some of whose names are among +those in the references at the end of the book, but to others to whom +further acknowledgment is due. First of these is Professor H. Morse +Stephens, whose suggestions from the inception of the work until its +completion have been of incalculable advantage, and whose generous +offer to read the proof sheets crowns long months of friendly +interest. Secondly, the author is indebted to the faithful and constant +supervision of her sister, Miss Agnes Elliott of the Los Angeles State +Normal School, without whose wide experience as a teacher of history +and economics the work could never have reached its present plane. The +author also offers her thanks to Mr. Charles F. Lummis, to whom not only +she but all students of California history must ever be indebted; to +Mrs. Mary M. Coman, Miss Isabel Frazee, to the officers of the various +state departments, especially Mr. Lewis E. Aubrey, State Mineralogist, +and Mr. Thomas J. Kirk and his assistant Mr. Job Wood of the educational +department; to Miss Nellie Rust, Librarian of the Pasadena City Library, +and her corps of accommodating and intelligent assistants, and to the +librarians of the Los Angeles City Library and State Normal School. + +The passages from the Century Magazine quoted in Chapters V-IX are +inserted by express permission of the publishers, the Century Company. +Acknowledgment is due, also, to the publishers of the Overland Monthly +for courtesy in permitting the use of copyright material; and to D. +Appleton & Co. for permission to insert selections from Sherman's +Memoirs. + + + +Contents + + + +Chapter + + I. The Land and the Name + II. The Story of the Indians + III. "The Secret of the Strait" + IV. The Cross of Santa Fe + V. Pastoral Days + VI. The Footsteps of the Stranger + VII. At the Touch of King Midas + VIII. The Great Stampede + IX. The Birth of the Golden Baby + X. The Signal Gun and the Steel Trail + XI. That Which Followed After + XII. "The Groves Were God's First Temples" + XIII. To All that Sow the Time of Harvest Should be Given + XIV. The Golden Apples of the Hesperides + XV. California's Other Contributions to the World's Bill of Fare + XVI. The Hidden Treasures of Mother Earth + XVII. From La Escuela of Spanish California to the Schools of the + Twentieth Century +XVIII. Statistics + +Bibliography Index + + + +History of California + + + +Chapter I. + +The Land and the Name + + + +Once upon a time, about four hundred years ago, there was published in +old Spain a novel which soon became unusually popular. The successful +story of those days was one which caught the fancy of the men, was read +by them, discussed at their gatherings, and often carried with them when +they went to the wars or in search of adventures. This particular story +would not interest readers of to-day save for this passage: "Know that +on the right hand of the Indies there is an island called California, +very near the Terrestrial Paradise, and it is peopled by black women who +live after the fashion of Amazons. This island is the strongest in the +world, with its steep rocks and great cliffs, and there is no metal in +the island but gold." + +There is no doubt that some bold explorer, crossing over from Spain to +Mexico and enlisting under the leadership of the gallant Cortez, sailed +the unknown South Sea (the Pacific) and gave to the new land discovered +by one of Cortez's pilots the name of the golden island in this favorite +story. + +This land, thought to be an island, is now known to us as the peninsula +of Lower California. The name first appeared in 1542 on the map of +Domingo Castillo, and was soon applied to all the land claimed by Spain +from Cape San Lucas up the coast as far north as 44, which was probably +a little higher than any Spanish explorer had ever sailed. + +"Sir Francis Drake," says the old chronicle, "was the first Englishman +to sail on the back side of America," and from that time until now +California has been considered the back door of the country. This was +natural because the first settlements in the United States were along +the Atlantic seacoast. The people who came from England kept their faces +turned eastward, looking to the Mother Country for help, and watching +Europe, and later England herself, as a quarter from which danger might +come, as indeed it did in the war of the Revolution and that of 1812. + +During the last few years, however, various events have happened to +change this attitude. Through its success in the late Spanish war the +United States gained confidence in its own powers, while the people of +the old world began to realize that the young republic of the western +hemisphere, since it did not hesitate to make war in the interests of +humanity, would not be apt to allow its own rights to be imposed upon. +The coming of the Philippine and Hawaiian Islands under the protection +of the United States, the Russo-Japanese war, which opened the eyes of +the world to the strength of Japan and the wisdom of securing its trade, +and the action of the United States in undertaking the building of +the Panama Canal, are indications that the Pacific will in the future +support a commerce the greatness of which we of to-day cannot estimate. +With danger from European interference no longer pressing closely +upon the nation, President Roosevelt in 1907 took a decided step in +recognizing the importance of the Pacific when he sent to that coast +so large a number of the most modern vessels of the navy. In fact, the +nation may now be said to have faced about, California becoming the +front door of our country. + +It is well, then, to ask ourselves what we know about the state which is +to form part of the reception room of one of the leading nations of the +world. + +It is a long strip of territory, bounded on one side by the ocean +so well named Pacific, which gives freshness and moisture to the +ever-blowing westerly winds. + +On the other side is a mountain range, one thousand miles long, with +many of its peaks covered with perpetual snow, holding in its lofty arms +hundreds of ice-cold lakes, its sides timbered with the most wonderful +forests of the world. + +Few regions of the same size have so great a range of altitude as +California, some portions of its desert lands being below sea level, +while several of its mountains are over ten thousand feet in height. In +its climate, too, there are wide differences as regards heat and +cold, although its coast lands, whether north or south, are much more +temperate than the corresponding latitudes on the Atlantic coast. The +difference in the climate of the northern and southern portions of the +state is more marked in the matter of moisture. Most of the storms of +California have their beginning out in the North Pacific Ocean. They +travel in a southeasterly direction, striking the coast far to the north +in summer, but in winter extending hundreds of miles farther south. +During November, December, January, and February they often reach as +far south as the Mexican line. Then, only, does southern California +have rain. The water necessary for use in the summer time is gained by +irrigation from the mountain streams, which are supplied largely from +the melting snows on the Sierras. + +The home lands of the state may be divided into two portions: the +beautiful border country rising from the Pacific in alternate valleys +and low rolling foothills to the edge of the Coast Range; and the great +central valley or basin, which lies like a vast pocket almost entirely +encircled by mountains the high Sierras on the east, on the west the low +Coast Range. Two large rivers with their tributaries drain this valley: +the San Joaquin, flowing from the south; and the Sacramento, flowing +from the north. Joining near the center of the state, they cut their way +through the narrow passage, the Strait of Carquinez, and casting their +waters into the beautiful Bay of San Francisco, finally reach the ocean +through the Golden Gate. + +Down from the Sierras, mighty glaciers carried the soil for this central +valley, grinding and pulverizing it as it was rolled slowly along. Many +years this process continued. The rain, washing the mountain sides, +brought its tribute in the rich soil and decayed vegetation of the +higher region, until a natural seed bed was formed, where there can +be raised in abundance a wonderful variety of plants and trees. In the +coast valleys the soil is alluvial, the fine washing of mountain rocks; +this is mixed in some places with a warmer, firmer loam and in others +with a gravelly soil, which is the best known for orange raising. + +The state owes much to her mountains, for not only have they contributed +to her fertile soil, but they hold in their rocky slopes the gold and +silver mines which have transformed the whole region from an unknown +wilderness to a land renowned for its riches and beauty. They lift their +lofty peaks high in the air like mighty strongholds, and, shutting +out the desert winds, catch the clouds as they sail in from the ocean, +making them pay heavy tribute in fertilizing rain to the favored land +below. + +The climate, which of all the precious possessions of California is the +most valuable, is best described by Bret Harte in the lines, "Half a +year of clouds and flowers; half a year of dust and sky." Either half is +enjoyable, for in the summer, or dry season, fogs or delightful westerly +winds soon moderate a heated spell, and in nearly all parts of the state +the nights are cool; while the rainy, or winter season, changes to balmy +springtime as soon as the storm is over. + +In a large portion of the state the climate is such that the inhabitants +may spend much of their time out of doors. As a rule few duties are +attended to in the house which can possibly be performed in the open +air. It is growing to be more and more the custom to have, in connection +with a Californian home, a tent bedroom where the year round one or more +of the members of the family sleep, with only a wall of canvas between +them and nature. + +The vacation time is spent largely in summer camps, at either mountain +or seashore, or, quite often, a pleasant party of one or two families +live together, very simply, under the greenwood tree beside some spring +or stream, spending a few weeks in gypsy fashion. While the young folk +grow sturdy and beautiful, the older members of the party become filled +with strength and a joy of living which helps them through the cares +and struggles of the rest of the year. This joy in outdoor life is not, +however, a discovery of to-day. The old Spanish families spent as much +time as possible in the courtyard, the house being deserted save at +night. When upon journeys, men, women, and children slept in the +open air. Even the clothes-washing period was turned into a kind +of merrymaking. Whole families joined together to spend days in the +vicinity of some stream, where they picnicked while the linen was being +cleansed in the running water and dried on the bushes near by. + +Once before, when the world was younger, there was a land similar to +this,--sea-kissed, mountain-guarded, with such gentle climate and +soft skies. Its people, who also lived much out of doors at peace +with nature, became almost perfect in health and figure, with mental +qualities which enabled them to give to the world the best it has known +in literature and art. What the ancient Greeks were, the people +of California may become; but with an advancement in knowledge and +loving-kindness of man toward man which heathen Athens never knew. + +What will be the result of this outdoor life cannot yet be told; climate +has always had an active influence in shaping the character and type of +a people. With a climate mild and healthful, yet bracing; with a soil so +rich that the touch of irrigation makes even the sandiest places bloom +with the highest beauty of plant, tree, and vine; with an ocean warm and +gentle, and skies the kindliest in the world,--there is, if we judge by +the lesson history teaches, a promise of a future for California greater +and more noble than the world has yet known. + + + +Chapter II. + +The Story of the Indians + + + +"Run, Cleeta, run, the waves will catch you." Cleeta scudded away, her +naked little body shining like polished mahogany. She was fleet of foot, +but the incoming breakers from the bosom of the great Pacific ran faster +still; and the little Indian girl was caught in its foaming water, +rolled over and over, and cast upon the sandy beach, half choked, yet +laughing with the fun of it. + +"Foolish Cleeta, you might have been drowned; that was a big wave. What +made you go out so far?" said Gesnip, the elder sister. + +"I found such a lot of mussels, great big ones, I wish I could go back +and get them," said the little one, looking anxiously at the water. + +"The waves are coming in higher and higher and it is growing late," said +Gesnip; "besides, I have more mussels already than you and I can well +carry. The boys have gone toward the river mouth for clams. They will be +sure to go home the other way." + +Cleeta ran to the basket and looked in. + +"I should think there were too many for us to carry," she said, as she +tried with all her strength to lift it by the carry straps. "What will +you do with them; throw some back into the water?" + +"No, I don't like to do that," answered her sister, frowning, "for it +has been so long since we have had any. The wind and the waves have been +too high for us to gather any. Look, Cleeta, look; what are those out on +the water? I do believe they are boats." + +"No," said the little girl; "I see what you mean, but boats never go out +so far as that." + +"Not tule boats," said Gesnip, "but big thick one made out of trees; +that is the kind they have at Santa Catalina, the island where uncle +lives. It has been a long time since he came to see us, not since you +were four years old, but mother is always looking for him." + +The children gazed earnestly seaward at a fleet of canoes which were +making for the shore. "Do you think it is uncle?" asked Cleeta. + +"Yes," replied her sister, uncertainly, "I think it may be." Then, as +the sunlight struck full on the boats "Yes, yes, I am sure of it, for +one is red, and no on else has a boat of that color; all others are +brown." + +"Mother said he would bring abalone when he came," cried Cleeta, dancing +from one foot to the other; "and she said they are better than mussels +or anything else for soup." + +"He will bring fish," said Gesnip, "big shining fish with yellow tails." + +"Mother said he would bring big blue ones with hard little seams down +their sides," said Cleeta. + +Meantime the boats drew nearer. They were of logs hollowed out until +they were fairly light, but still seeming too clumsy for safe seagoing +craft. In each were several men. One sat in the stern and steered, the +others knelt in pairs, each man helping propel the boat by means of +a stick some four feet long, more like a pole than a paddle, which he +worked with great energy over the gunwale. + +"I am afraid of them," said Cleeta, drawing close to her sister. "They +do not look like the people I have seen. Their faces are the color of +the kah-hoom mother weaves in her baskets. There are only three like us, +and they all have such strange clothes." + +"Do not be afraid," said Gesnip. "I see uncle; he is one of the dark +ones like ourselves. The island people have yellow skins." + +The time was the year 1540, and the people, the Californians of that +day. The men in the boat were mostly from the island of Santa Catalina, +and were fairer, with more regular features, than the inhabitants of the +mainland, who in southern California were a short, thick-set race, +with thick lips, dark brown skin, coarse black hair, and eyes small and +shining like jet-black beads. They were poorly clothed in winter; in +summer a loin cloth was often all that the men wore, while the children +went naked a large part of the year. + +With wonderful skill the badly shaped boats were guided safely over the +breakers until their bows touched the sand. Then the men leaped out and, +half wading, half swimming, pulled them from the water and ran them up +on the beach. + +The little girls drew near and stood quietly by, waiting to be spoken +to. Presently the leading man, who was short, dark, and handsomely +dressed in a suit of sealskin ornamented with abalone shell, turned to +them. + +"Who are these little people?" he asked, in a kind voice. + +"We are the children of Cuchuma and Macana," replied Gesnip, working her +toes in and out of the soft sand, too shy to look her uncle in the face. + +"Children of my sister, Sholoc is glad to see you," said the chief, +laying his hand gently on Cleeta's head. "Your mother, is she well?" + +"She is well and looking for you these many moons," said Gesnip. + +The men at once began unloading the boats. The children watched the +process with great interest, Abalone in their shells, a dainty prized +then as well as now, fish, yellowtail and bonito, filled to the brim the +large baskets which the men slung to their backs, carrying them by means +of a strap over the forehead. On their heads they placed ollas, or water +jars, of serpentine from quarries which may be seen in Santa Catalina +to-day, the marks of the tools of workmen of, that time still in the +rocks. + +There were also strings of bits of abalone shell which had been +punctured and then polished, and these Sholoc hung around his neck. + +"Uncle," exclaimed Gesnip, touching one of these strings, "how much +money! You have grown rich at Santa Catalina. What will you buy?" + +"Buy me a wife, perhaps," was the reply. "I will give two strings for a +good wife. Do you know any worth so much?" + +"No," said the girl, stoutly. "I don't know any worth two whole strings +of abalone. You can get a good wife for much less." + +The men, who had succeeded in loading the contents of the boats on their +heads and backs, now marched away, in single file, crossing the heavy +sand dunes slowly, then mounting the range of foothills beyond. The +children followed. Gesnip had her basket bound to her head by a strap +round her forehead; but, though her uncle had taken out part of the +contents, it was a heavy load for the child. + +As they neared the top of the hill, Sholoc, who was ahead, lifted his +hand and motioned them to stop. + +"Hush," he said softly, "elk." Swiftly the men slipped off their loads +and with bows in hand each one crept flat on his belly over the hill +crest. Gesnip and Cleeta peeped through the high grass. Below them was +a wide plain, dotted with clumps of bushes, and scattered over it they +could see a great herd of elk, whose broad, shining antlers waved above +the grass and bushes upon which they were feeding. + +"Are those elk too?" asked Cleeta, presently, pointing toward the +foothills at their left. + +"No," replied her sister, "I think those are antelope. I like to see +them run. How funny their tails shake. But watch the men; they are going +to shoot." + +As she spoke, four of the hunters, who had crept well up toward +the game, rose to their feet, holding their bows horizontally, not +perpendicularly. These weapons, which were made of cedar wood, were +about four feet in length, painted at the ends black or dark blue, the +middle, which was almost two inches broad, being wrapped with elk sinew. +The strings also were of sinew. The quiver which each man carried at his +side was made from the skin of a wild cat or of a coyote. A great hunter +like Sholoc might make his quiver from the tails of lions he had killed. +Projecting from the quiver were the bright-feathered ends of the arrows, +which were of reed and were two or three feet long, with points of bone, +flint, or obsidian. + +The hunters, knowing how hard it was to kill large game, had chosen +their arrows carefully, taking those that had obsidian points. Almost +at the same moment they let fly their shafts. Three elk leaped into the +air. One tumbled over in a somersault which broke one of its antlers, +and then lay dead, shot through the heart by Sholoc. Another took a few +leaps, but a second arrow brought it to its knees. Then it sank slowly +over upon its side; but it struck so fiercely at the hunter who ran up +to kill it with his horn knife that he drew back and shot it again. + +"Where is the third elk?" asked Cleeta, looking around. + +"Over there," said Gesnip, pointing across the plain. + +"Then they have lost it," said the child, with disappointment. + +"No, I think not. It is wounded. I saw the blood on its side," said +the sister. "See, one of the men is following it, and it is half a mile +behind the herd. I am sure he will get it." + +"This has been a lucky day," said Gesnip. "So much food. Our stomachs +will not ache with hunger for a long time." + +"That is because mother wove a game basket to Chinigchinich so he would +send food," said Cleeta. + +By the time the party had traveled two miles, Gesnip, with her load, and +Cleeta, whose bare brown legs were growing very tired, lagged behind. + +"O dear," said the elder sister, "we shall surely be too late to go into +camp with uncle." Just then a whoop sounded behind them, and a boy of +thirteen, dressed in a rabbit-skin shirt, carrying a bow in his hand, +came panting up to them. + +"Payuchi," said Gesnip, eagerly, "carry my basket for me and I will tell +you some good news." + +"No," replied Payuchi, shaking his head, "it is a girl's place to carry +the basket." + +"Just this little way, and it is such good news" urged Gesnip. "It will, +make your heart glad." + +"Very well, then, tell it quickly," said the boy, changing the basket of +mussels to his own broad back. + +"Sholoc has come from Santa Catalina with baskets of abalone and fish, +and with ollas all speckled, and strings of money. He is near the top of +the grade now. Upon hearing the good news the lad darted away at a great +pace, his sisters following as fast as they could. Sholoc and his party +had stopped to rearrange their loads, so the children overtook them at +the head of the trail leading to their home. + +"Below them was a valley dotted with live oaks, and along the banks of +the stream that ran through it was a thick growth of alders, sycamores, +and willows. At the foot of the trail, near the water, was a cluster +of what looked like low, round straw stacks. No straw stacks were they, +however, but houses, the only kind of homes known in southern California +at that time. + +"It was the Indian settlement where Gesnip, Cleeta, and Payuchi lived, +and of which their father, Cuchuma, was chief. The jacals, or wigwams, +were made of long willow boughs, driven into the ground closely in a +circle, the ends bent over and tied together with deer sinews. They were +covered with a thatching of grass that, when dry, made them look like +straw stacks. + +"Sholoc stepped to the-edge of the bluff and gave a long, quavering cry +which could be heard far in the still evening air. Instantly out of the +group of jacals came a crowd of men and boys, who gave answering cries." + +"I am glad they have a fire," said Cleeta, as she saw the big blaze in +the middle of the settlement, "I am so cold." + +"Take my hand and let's run," said Gesnip, and partly running and partly +sliding, they followed the men of the party, who, notwithstanding their +heavy loads, were trotting down the steep trail. + +They were met at the foot of the grade by a crowd which surrounded them, +all chattering at once. Sholoc told of the elk, and a number of men +started off on the run to bring in the big game. As the visitors entered +camp, Macana, a kind-faced woman, better dressed than most of her +tribe, came forward. She placed her hand on Sholoc's shoulder, her face +lighting up with love and happiness. + +"You are welcome, brother," she said. + +"The sight of you is good to my eyes, sister," an answered Sholoc. That +was all the greeting, although the two loved each other well. Macana +took the basket from Payuchi's back. + +"Come," she called to Gesnip, "and help me wash the mussels." Then, +as she saw the younger girl shivering as she crouched over the fire, +"Cleeta, you need not be cold any longer; your rabbit skin dress is +done. Go into the jacal and put it on." Cleeta obeyed with dancing eyes. + +Gesnip followed her mother to the stream. + +"Take this," said Macana, handing her an openwork net or bag, "and hold +it while I empty in some of the mussels. Now lift them up and down in +the water to wash out the sand. That will do; put them into this basket, +and I will give you some more." + +Meantime some of the women had taken a dozen or more fish from Sholoc's +baskets, and removing their entrails with bone knives, wrapped them in +many thicknesses of damp grass and laid them in the hot ashes and coals +to bake. + +When the mussels were all cleaned, Macana emptied them into a large +basket half filled with water, and threw in a little acorn meal and a +handful of herbs. Then, using two green sticks for tongs, she drew out +from among the coals some smooth gray stones which had become very hot. +Brushing these off with a bunch of tules, she lifted them by means of +a green stick having a loop in the end which fitted round the stones, +flinging them one by one into the basket in which were the mussels and +water. Immediately the water, heated by the stones, began to boil, and +when the soup was ready, she set the basket down beside her own jacal +and called her children to her. Payuchi, Gesnip, Cleeta, and their +little four-year-old brother, Nakin, gathered about the basket, helping +themselves with abalone shells, the small holes of which their mother +had plugged with wood. + +"Isn't father going to have some first?" asked Payuchi, before they +began the meal. + +"Not this time; he will eat with Sholoc and the men when the fish are +ready," replied his mother. + +"This is good soup," said Gesnip. "I am glad I worked hard before the +water came up. But, Payuchi, didn't you and Nopal get any clams?" + +"Yes," said her brother, making a face; he had dipped down where the +stones were hottest and the soup thickest, and had taken a mouthful that +burned him. "Yes, we got some clams, more than I could carry; but Nopal +was running races with the other boys and would not come, so I left him +to bring them. He will lose his fish dinner if he doesn't hurry." + +"Mother," said Cleeta, "may we stay up to the fish bake?" + +"No," answered her mother. "You and Nakin must go to bed, but I will +save some for your breakfast. You are tired, Cleeta." + +"Yes, I am tired," said the little girl, leaning her head against her +mother's shoulder, "but I am warm in my rabbit-skin dress. We all have +warm dresses now. Please tell me a good-night story," she begged. "We +have been good and brought in much food." + +"Yes, tell us how the hawk and coyote made the sun," said Gesnip. + +"Very well," said the mother, "only you must be quite still." + +"It was in the beginning of all things, and a bowl of darkness, blacker +than the pitch lining of our water basket, covered the earth. Man, +when he would go abroad, fell against man, against trees, against wild +animals, even against Lollah, the bear, who would, in turn, hug the +unhappy one to death. Birds flying in the air came together and fell +struggling to the earth. All was confusion." + +"Once the hawk, by chance, flew in the face of the coyote. Instead of +fighting about it as naughty children might, they, like people of good +manners, apologized many times. Then they talked over the unhappy state +of things and determined to remedy the evil. The coyote first gathered +a great heap of dried tules, rolled them together into a ball, and gave +them to the hawk, with some pieces of flint. The hawk, taking them in +his talons, flew straight up into the sky, where he struck fire with his +flints, lit the ball of reeds, and left it there whirling along with a +bright yellow light, as it continues to whirl to-day; for it, children, +is our sun, ruler of the day." + +"The hawk next flew back for another ball to rule the night, but the +coyote had no tule gathered, and the hawk hurried him so that some damp +stems were mixed in. The hawk flew with this ball into the sky and set +it afire but because of the green tules it burned with only a dim light; +and this, children, is our moon, ruler of the night." + +"That is a fine story," said Payuchi. "I am glad I did not live when +there was no light." + +"Tell us how the coyote danced with the star," said Gesnip. + +"No," replied the mother, "another time we shall see. Now I shall sing +to coax sleep to tired eyes, and the little ones will go to bed." And +this was what she sang: "Pah-high-nui-veve, veve, veve, shumeh, veve, +veve, veve, shumeh, Pah-high-nui-veve," and so on, repeating these words +over and over until Cleeta and Nakin were sound asleep. Then she laid +them on their tule mats, which were spread on the floor of the jacal, +where baby Nahal, close wrapped in his cocoon-shaped cradle, had been a +long time sleeping. + +"Mother," said Gesnip, coming into the jacal, "they have brought in the +elk. Don't you want something from them?" + +"Yes," replied Macana, "I will go and see about it. I want one of the +skins to make your father a warm hunting dress." + +The Indians who had gone after the elk had skinned and cut them up where +they lay, as they were so large that the burden had to be distributed +among a number of carriers. Macana found Sholoc busy portioning out +parts of the elk. As he had a fine seal-skin suit himself, he gladly +gave her the skin of the deer which he had shot. + +"Isn't that a big one?" said Payuchi. "It will make father a fine +hunting suit, it is so thick." Gesnip was loaded down with some of the +best cuts of the meat to take to her father's jacal. Cuchuma himself +began removing the tendons from the legs, to cure for bowstrings, and to +wrap a new bow he was going to make. + +"Here, Nopal," said Sholoc to his oldest nephew, a lad of fifteen, "I +will give you a piece of the antler and you can grind it down and make +yourself a hunting knife. It is time you ceased to play and became a +hunter. I had killed much game when I was your age." + +"Will you give me some of the brains that I may finish tanning a +deerskin? I have been waiting to finish it until I could get some +brains, but it has been a long time since any one has brought in big +game," said Macana. + +"Yes," answered Sholoc, "you shall have them. Payuchi, hand me my +elk-horn ax so that I can split open the head, and you can take the +brains to the jacal." Soon not a piece of meat, a bit of skin, tendon, +or bone, was left. All was put to use by these people of the forest. And +now the feast was ready. The women had roasted many pieces of elk's meat +over the coals. The fish had been taken from under the hot ashes, the +half burned grass removed from around them, and the fish broken into +pieces and put in flat baskets shaped like platters. There were also +pieces of elk meat and cakes of acorn meal baked on hot stones. + +As was the custom with the Indians, the men were served first. Payuchi +watched anxiously as his father and the other men took large helpings +from the baskets. + +"Do you think there will be enough for us to have any?" he asked Gesnip. +"I am so hungry and they are eating so much. If I were a man, I should +remember about the women and children." + +"No; you wouldn't if you were a man; men never do," answered Gesnip. +"But you need not worry, there is plenty. Mother said there would be +some left for breakfast." + +"Wait for that till I get through," said Payuchi, laughing. After all +had eaten a hearty meal, more than for many weeks they had been able +to have at any one time, the tired women each gathered her children +together and took them to her own jacal, leaving the men sitting around +the camp fire. Payuchi, who tumbled to sleep as soon as his head touched +his sleeping mat, was wakened by some one pulling his rabbit-skin coat, +which he wore nights as well as days. + +"Payuchi," said a voice, "wake up." + +"I have not been asleep," answered the boy, stoutly, as he rubbed his +eyes to get them open. "What do you want, Nopal?" for he saw his brother +speaking to him. + +"Hush, do not waken mother," said Nopal, speaking very softly. "I know +that the men will make an offering to Chinigchinich. I am going to watch +them. We are old enough, at least I am. Do you want to come?" + +A star shone in at the top of the jacal, and Payuchi gazed up at it, +blinking, while he pulled his thoughts together. + +"They will punish us if they find us out," said he at length. + +"But we won't let them find us out, stupid one," replied his brother, +impatiently. + +"What if Chinigchinich should be angry with us? He does not like to have +children in the ceremony of the offering," said Payuchi. + +"I will give him my humming-bird skin, and you shall give him your +mountain quail head; then he will be pleased with us," answered Nopal. + +"All right," said the boy; "I do not like very well to part with that +quail head, but perhaps it is a good thing to do." + +Creeping softly from the jacal, the boys crouched in the shade of a +willow bush and watched the men by the camp fire. + +"They are standing up. They are just going," said Payuchi, "and every +one has something in his hand. Father has two bows; I wonder why." + +"I think he is going to make an offering of the new bow to +Chinigchinich," answered Nopal. "I thought he was going to keep it and +give me his old one," he added, with some disappointment. + +"What are they offering for?" asked the young brother. + +"For rain," said Nopal. "See, they are going now." In single file the +men walked swiftly away, stepping so softly that not a twig cracked. + +After a little the boys followed, slipping from bush to bush that they +might not be discovered. They had walked about a mile, when they came +to thicker woods with bigger trees and saw a light ahead of them. Nopal +laid his hand on his brother to stop him. Peeping through a scrub-oak +bush, they looked down into a little glade arched over with great live +oaks. In the middle of the opening they saw, by the light of a low fire, +a small cone-shaped hut. Beside it stood a gigantic figure painted and +adorned with shells, feathers, rattlesnake skins, and necklaces of bone. + +"Come back," whispered Payuchi, his teeth chattering with fear. "It is +Chinigchinich himself; he will see us, and we shall die." + +"No," answered Nopal, "it is only Nihie, the medicine man. He looks so +tall because of his headdress. It is made of framework of dried tules +covered with feathers and fish bladders. I saw it one day in his +jacal, and it is as tall as I am. That jacal beside him is the vanquech +[temple], and I think there is something awful there. You see if there +isn't. Hush, now! Squat down. Here they come." + +In a procession the men came into the opening, and, stalking solemnly +by, each cast down at the door of the temple an offering of some object +which he prized. Cuchuma gave a bone knife which he greatly valued, and +a handsome new bow. Sholoc gave a speckled green stone olla from Santa +Catalina and a small string of money; but these were chiefs' offerings. +The other gifts were simpler--shells, acorn meal, baskets, birds' skins, +but always something for which the owner cared. + +At last the medicine man, satisfied with the things offered which became +his own when the ceremony was over, stooped and drew forth the sacred +emblem from the temple. It was not even an idol, only a fetich composed +of a sack made from the skin of a coyote, the head carefully preserved +and stuffed, while the body was dressed smooth of hair and adorned +with hanging shells and tufts of birds' feathers. A bundle of arrows +protruded from the open mouth, giving it a fierce appearance. While +Nihie held it up, the men circled round once again, this time more +rapidly, and as they passed the medicine man, each gave a spring into +the air, shooting an arrow upward with all his force. When the last man +had disappeared under the trees, Nihie replaced the skin in the temple, +put out the fire, and, singing a kind of chant, he led the men back +to their jacals. The boys stood up. Payuchi shivered and drew a long +breath. + +"We must get away now; Nihie will be back soon to get the offerings," +said Nopal. + +"But first we must offer our gifts, or Chinigchinich will be angry," +said Payuchi. + +"Come on, then," said the brother; so, stealing softly down the +hillside, the boys cast their offerings on the pile in front of the hut +and ran away, taking a roundabout path home, that they might not meet +the medicine man returning. + +"We must hurry to get in the jacal before father," said Nopal, suddenly. +"I didn't think of that. Run, Payuchi, run faster." But they were in +time after all, and were stretched out on their mats some minutes before +their father and Sholoc came in. + +Macana's first duty in the morning was to attend to the baby, whose +wide-open black eyes gave the only sign that it was awake. She +unfastened it from the basket and unwrapped it, rubbing the little body +over with its morning bath of grease until the firm skin shone as if +varnished. When it had nursed and was comfortable, she put the little +one back in its cradle basket, which she leaned up against the side of +the hut, where the little prisoner might see all that was going on. + +Instead of the usual breakfast of acorn meal mush, the children had a +plentiful meal of fish which their mother had saved from the feast of +the night before. + +"I didn't think any one could catch so many fish as uncle brought last +night," said Cleeta, as she helped herself to a piece of yellowtail. + +"Yes, they do, though," said Payuchi. "Last night, after supper, uncle +told the men some fine stories. I think he has been in places which none +of our people have ever seen. + +"He told us that once he journeyed many moons toward the land of snow +and ice until he came to the country of the Klamath tribe, where he +stayed a long time. He said that when they fish they drive posts made of +young trees into the bottom of the river and then weave willow boughs +in and out until there is a wall of posts and boughs clear across the +stream. Then the big red fish come up from the great water into the +river. They come, uncle said, so many no one can count them, and the +ones behind push against those in front until they are all crowded +against the wall, and then the Klamath men catch them with spears and +nets until there is food enough for all, and many fish to dry." + +"I should like to see that. What else did he tell you?" asked Gesnip. + +"He said he visited one place where the great salt water comes into +the land and is so big it takes many days to journey round it. Here the +people eat fish, clams, and mussels instead of acorns and roots. On the +shore they have their feasting ground where they go to eat and dance and +tell big stories, and; sometimes to make an offering. So many people go +there, uncle said, that the shells they have left make a hill, a hill +just of shells that is many steps high. From the top of it one may look +over the water, which is so long no eye can see the end of it." + +"What else did you hear?" asked Gesnip. + +"Nothing more, for mother called me," replied her brother. "I should +like to hear more of those stories, though." + +"Mother," asked Gesnip, as she finished her breakfast, "when am I to +begin to braid mats for the new jacal?" + +"Soon," replied Macana. "This morning you and Payuchi must gather +the tule. Have a large pile when I come home." So saying, the mother +strapped the baby on her back and, accompanied by the younger children, +went out with other women of the tribe to gather the white acorns from +the oaks on the highlands pear the mountains. + +The December wind, from the snow-capped peaks, chilled and cut with +its icy breath their scantily clothed bodies, but for hours they worked +picking up the scattered nuts. The labors of an Indian mother ceased +only while she slept. + +"Come, Payuchi," said Gesnip, "let us go down to the river and get +tules." + +"All right," replied the boy, readily. "Sholoc is going down too. He +is going to show the men how to make log canoes like his instead of the +tule canoes our people use. But I like the tule canoes, because I can +use my feet for paddles." When they reached the river, which was really +a lagoon or arm of the sea, the children stopped to watch the men at +work. A large log, washed down from the mountains by some flood, lay +on the bank. It was good hard wood, and the children saw that it was +smoking in three places. + +"This is going to make two canoes, but neither one will be so big, as +uncle's," said Payuchi. + +"How can it make two canoes if they burn it up?" asked his sister. + +"You are stupid, Gesnip," said her brother. "Don't you see they are +burning it to separate it into two parts? Then they will burn each log +into the shape of a boat, finishing it up with axes of bone or horn. +Uncle told me how they did it." + +"Why have they put the green bark on the top of the log?" + +"I think it is to keep it from burning along the edge; don't you see? +And then there are wider pieces to protect it at the ends. See how they +watch the fire and beat it out in one place and then in another." + +"Why does it burn so fast?" asked Gesnip. + +"Because they have daubed it with pitch. Can't you smell it?" said the +boy, sniffing. + +"Yes, I can smell it," replied his sister. "But come now and help me +gather tules. Father is going to burn down our house and build a new one +for winter, and I must make a tule rug for each one of you for beds in +the new home. It will take a great many tule stems." + +"It is cold to wade," said Payuchi, stepping into the water at the edge +of the river. + +"Yes," answered Gesnip, "I don't like to gather tules in winter." + +The children pulled up the long rough stems one by one until they had a +large pile. + +"I think we have enough," said Payuchi, after they had been working +about two hours. + +"Yes, I think so too," said his sister. "My back aches, my hands are +sore, and my feet are so cold." Payuchi brought some wild grapevine with +which he tied the tule into two bundles, fastening the larger upon his +sister's back; for with his people the women and girls were the burden +bearers, and a grown Indian would not do any work that his wife could +possibly do for him. + +After they had traveled a little way on the homeward path, Gesnip +stopped. + +"Don't go so fast, Payuchi," she begged. "This bundle is so large it +nearly tumbles me over." + +"Just hurry a little until we get to the foot of the hill yonder where +Nopal and the other big boys are playing, and you can rest while I watch +the game," answered her brother. Gesnip struggled on, bending under the +weight and size of her awkward burden until, with a sigh of relief, she +seated herself on a stone to rest while Payuchi, throwing his bundle on +the ground, stood up to watch the boys. + +"See, Nopal is It," he said. Nopal, coming forward, stooped low and +rolled a hoop along the ground, which the boys had pounded smooth and +hard for the game. + +As the hoop rolled another boy stepped forward and tried to throw a +stick through it, but failed. Then all the players pointed their fingers +at him and grunted in scorn. Again Nopal rolled the hoop, and this time +the boy threw through the ring, and all the boys, and Payuchi too, gave +whoops of delight. + +The children watched the game until Gesnip said that they must go on, +for their mother would be home and want them. When they returned, Macana +was warming herself by the fire where the men were sitting. + +"See our tule; is it not a great deal?" asked the children, showing +their bundles. + +"Yes, but not enough," replied their mother. "You will have to go out +another day." + +The women, who had been working all the morning gathering acorns, now +squatted near the fire and began grinding up the nuts which had been +already dried. + +"Gesnip," called her mother, "bring me the grinding stones." The girl +went to the jacal and brought two stones, one a heavy bowlder with a +hollow in its top, which had been made partly by stone axes, but more by +use; the other stone fitted into this hollow. + +"Now bring me the basket of roasted grasshoppers," said the mother. +Taking a handful of grasshoppers, Macana put them into the hollow in the +larger stone, and with the smaller stone rubbed them to a coarse powder. +This powder she put into a small basket which Gesnip brought her. + +"I am glad we caught the grasshoppers. They taste better than acorn meal +mush," said Payuchi. + +"How many grasshoppers there are in the fall," said Gesnip, "and so many +rabbits, too." + +"We had such a good time at the rabbit drive," said Payuchi. + +"And such a big feast afterwards, nearly as good as last night," said +Gesnip. + +"Tell me about the rabbit drive," said Cleeta, squatting down beside the +children in front of the fire. + +"It was in the big wash up the river toward the mountains," began +Payuchi. "You have seen the rabbits running to hide in a bunch of grass +and cactus when you go with mother to the mountains for acorns, haven't +you?" + +Cleeta nodded. "Not this winter, though. We saw only two to-day," she +said. + +"That is because of the drive," said her brother. "It was in the +afternoon, with the wind blowing from the ocean, and all the men who +could shoot best with bow and arrow, or throw the spear well, stood on +the other side of the wash." + +"Father was there," said Cleeta. + +"Yes, and many others," said Payuchi. "Then some of the men and all of +us boys got green branches of trees and came down on this side of the +wash. Nopal started the fire. It burned along in the grass slowly at +first, and when it came too near the jacals on one side or the woods +on the other, we would beat it out with the branches, but soon it +ran before the wind into the cactus and bunch grass. The rabbits were +frightened out and ran from the fire as fast as they could, and in a +few minutes they were right at the feet of father and the other hunters. +They killed forty before the smoke made them run too." + +"My dress was made of their skin," said the little girl, smoothing her +gown lovingly. "It keeps me so warm." + +"Did the fire burn long?" asked Gesnip. + +"No, we beat it out, or it would have gone up the wash into the live +oaks; then we boys should have been well punished for our carelessness." + +Here their mother called to them. + +"Payuchi," she said, "put away this basket of grasshopper meal. And, +Gesnip, go to the jacal and find me the coils for basket weaving." + +"What shall I bring?" asked Gesnip. + +"The large bundle of chippa that is soaking in a basket, and the big +coil of yellow kah-hoom and the little one of black tsuwish which are +hanging up, and bring me my needle and bone awl." + +"Do you want the coil of millay?" + +"No, I shall need no red to-day." + +Squatted on the ground, where she could feel the warmth of the fire on +her back, but where the heat could not dry her basket materials, Macana +began her work. Taking a dripping chippa, or willow bough, from the +basket where it had been soaking, she dried it on leaves and wound +it tightly in a close coil the size of her thumbnail, then spatted it +together until it seemed no longer a cord, but a solid piece of wood. +Thus she made the base of her basket; then, threading her needle, +which was but a horny cactus stem set in a head of hardened pitch, she +stitched in and out over the upper and under the lower layer, drawing +her thread firmly each time. The thread was the creamy, satin-like +kah-hoom. Round and round she coiled the chippa, the butt of one piece +overlapping the tip of another, while with her needle she covered all +with the smoothly drawn kah-hoom. After a time she laid the kah-hoom +aside for a stitch or two of the black root of the tule, called tsuwish. + +The children had watched the starting of the basket, then had begun +a game of match, with white and black pebbles. After a time Gesnip, +looking up from her play, exclaimed, as she saw the black diamond +pattern the weaver was making:-- + +"Mother, why are you weaving a rattlesnake basket?" + +"I am making it to please Chinigchinich that he may smile upon me and +guard you, children, and Cuchuma from the bite of the rattlesnake. There +are so many of them here this year, and I fear for you." + +"Thank you, mother," said Gesnip. "If Titas's mother had made a black +diamond basket, maybe the snake would not have bitten her." + +"I think Chinigchinich does smile upon you," said Payuchi, "for when we +were so hungry in the month of roots [October] you wove him the hunting +basket with the pattern of deer's antlers, trimmed with quail feathers, +and see how much food we have had: first the rabbits, then the +grasshoppers, and now the fish and elk." + +"While you work tell us how the first baby basket was made," begged +Cleeta. The mother nodded; and as she wound and pressed closely the +moist chippa, and the cactus needle flew in and out with the creamy +kah-hoom or the black tsuwish, she told the story. + +"When the mother of all made the basket for the first man child, she +used a rainbow for the wood of the back of the basket, with stars woven +in each side, and straight lightning down the middle in front. Sunbeams +shining on a far-away rain storm formed the fringe in front, where we +use strips of buckskin, and the carry straps were brightest sunbeams." + +"Mother, you left out that the baby was wrapped in a soft purple cloud +from the mountains," said Cleeta. + +"Yes, in a purple cloud of evening, wrapped so he could not move leg or +arm, but would grow straight and beautiful," said the mother. + +For a long while the children watched in silence the patient fingers at +their work; then Gesnip asked, "Is it true, mother, that when you were +a little child your father and mother and many of your tribe died of +hunger?" + +"It is true," replied Macana, sadly, "but who told you?" + +"Old Cotopacnic, but I thought it was one of his dreams. Why were you +all so hungry?" asked the girl. + +"Because the rain failed for three seasons. After a time there was +no grass, no acorns, the rabbits and deer died or wandered away, the +streams dried up so there were no fish, the ground became so dry that +there were no more grubs or worms of any kind, no grasshoppers. There +was nothing to eat but roots. Nearly all our tribe died, and many other +people, too." + +"How did you live?" asked Payuchi. + +"My aunt had married a chief whose home was in a rich valley in the +mountains where it is always green. She came down to see my mother, and +when she found how hard it was to get food for us all, she took me by +the hand and tumbled Sholoc who was smaller than little Nakin, into her +great seed basket and took us off to the mountains until times should +grow better; but the rains did not come until it was too late. I stayed +with her until I married your father. Sholoc became a great hunter, then +chief of the people of Santa Catalina, where he became a great fisherman +also." + +The children looked grave. + +"Do you think such bad seasons can ever come again?" asked Gesnip. + +"Who can tell?" replied the mother, with a sigh. "Last year was very +bad and there is little rain yet this year. That is why the men offered +gifts to Chinigchinich last night." + +"Nobody must take me away from you to keep me from being hungry," said +gentle Cleeta, hiding her face in her mother's lap. + +"If I were Chinigchinich," said Payuchi, "I would not let so many people +die, just because they needed a little more rain. I would not be that +kind of a god." + +"Hush, my child," said the mother, sternly. "He will hear and punish +you. If it is our fate, we must bend to it." + + + +Chapter III + +"The Secret of the Strait" + + + +Cabrillo + +One afternoon in September, in the year 1542, two broad, clumsy ships, +each with the flag of Spain flying above her many sails, were beating +their way up the coast of southern California. All day the vessels had +been wallowing in the choppy seas, driven about by contrary winds. At +last the prow of the leading ship was turned toward shore, where there +seemed to be an opening that might lead to a good harbor. At the bow +of the ship stood the master of the expedition, the tanned, keen-faced +captain, Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo. He was earnestly watching the land +before him, which was still some distance away. + +"Come hither, Juan," he called to a sturdy lad, about sixteen, who, +with an Indian boy, brought from Mexico as interpreter, was also eagerly +looking landward. "Your eyes should be better than mine. Think you there +is a harbor beyond that point?" + +"It surely seems so to me, sir," answered the boy; "and Pepe, whose +eyes, you know, are keener than ours, says that he can plainly see the +entrance." + +"I trust he is right; for this thickening weather promises a storm, and +a safe harbor would be a gift of God to us weary ones this night," said +the captain, with a sigh. + +Since the fair June day when they had sailed out of the harbor on the +west shore of Mexico, they had been following first up the coast line of +the Peninsula, then of Upper California. No maps or charts of the region +showing where lay good harbors or dangerous rocks, could be found in +Cabrillo's cabin. Instead, there were maps of this South Sea which +pictured terrible dangers for mariners--great whirlpools which could +suck down whole fleets of vessels, and immense waterfalls, where it was +thought the whole ocean poured off the end of the land into space. A +brave man was Captain Cabrillo, for, half believing these stories, he +yet sailed steadily on, determined, no matter what happened to himself, +to do his duty to the king under whose flag he sailed, and to the +viceroy of Mexico, whose funds had furnished the expedition. + +California has ever been noted for its brave men, but none have been +more courageous than this explorer, who was probably the first white +man to set his foot upon its soil. As the ship approached land the crew +became silent, every eye being turned anxiously to the opening of the +passage which appeared before them. The vessel, driven by the stiff +breeze, rushed on, almost touching the rock at one point. Then, caught +by a favorable current, it swept into mid-channel, where it moved +rapidly forward, until at length it rode safely in the harbor now known +as San Diego Bay. + +"It is a good port and well inclosed," said Juan Cabrillo, with great +satisfaction, gazing out upon the broad sheet of quiet water. "We +will name it for our good San Miguel, to whom our prayers for a safe +anchorage were offered this morning." Then, when the two ships were +riding at anchor, the commander ordered out the boats. + +"We will see what kind of people these are, dodging behind the bushes +yonder," said he. As the Spaniards drew near shore they could see many +fleeing figures. + +"What a pity they are so afraid," said Cabrillo. "If we are to learn +anything of the country, we must teach them that we mean them no harm." + +"Master," said Pepe, "there are three of them hiding behind those +bushes." + +"Is it so, lad? Then go you up to them. They will not fear you." So the +Indian boy walked slowly forward, holding out his hands with his palms +upward, which not only let the natives see that he was unarmed, but in +the sign language meant peace and friendship. As he drew near to them an +old man and two younger ones, dressed in scanty shirts of rabbit-skins, +came from their hiding places and began to talk to Pepe, but, though +they also were Indians, they did not speak his language. Some of their +words were evidently similar to his, and by these and the help of signs +he partly understood what they said. Presently he returned to the group +on shore. + +"They say there are Spaniards back in the country a few days' journey +from here." + +"Spaniards? That is impossible," returned Cabrillo. + +"They say that they are bearded, wear clothes like yours, and have white +faces," answered the boy, simply. + +"They must be mistaken, or perhaps you did not understand them fully," +said the master. "At another time we will question them further. Now, +give them this present of beads and hurry back, for it is late." + +That night some of the men from the ships went on shore to fish. While +they were drawing their nets, the Indians stole up softly and discharged +their arrows, wounding three. The boy Juan had the most serious injury, +an arrow being so deeply embedded in his shoulder that it could not be +removed until they reached the ship. There the padre, who, like most +priests of that day, knew something of surgery, drew it out, and bound +up the shoulder in soothing balsams. + +On the second day of their stay in port the wind began to blow from the +southwest; the waves grew rough, and Cabrillo ordered the ships to be +made ready for the tempest, which soon became violent. Meantime, Juan +lay suffering in his hammock, which swung backward and forward with the +motion of the ship. Suddenly he heard a step beside him and felt a cool +hand on his forehead. + +"How goes it, lad?" said Cabrillo, for it was the master himself. "You +are suffering in a good cause. Have courage; you will soon be well. +Remember, you have helped to discover a harbor, the like of which is +seldom found. This storm is a severe one. I can hear the surf booming +on the farther shore, yet our ship shows no strain on the anchor. Good +harbor though it is, I am sorely disappointed, as I had hoped it was the +entrance to the strait, the strait that seems a phantom flying before +us as we go, drawing us onward to we know not what." The sadness of the +captain's voice troubled Juan. + +"Master," he asked earnestly, "what is the strait? I hear of it often, +yet no one can tell me what it is, or where it lies." + +"Because no one knows," answered the captain, rising. "I am needed on +deck, but I will send old Tomas to tell you its strange story." + +"The secret of the strait," said old Tomas, as he seated himself beside +Juan, "has led many men to gallant deeds and also many a man to a +gallant death. Always, since as a lad I first went to sea, the merchants +of many lands have been seeking a safe and speedy way of reaching the +Indies, where are found such foods, spices, and jewels as one sees +nowhere else in the world. + +"My father and grandfather used to travel with caravans overland to and +from India. There are several routes, each controlled by some one of the +great Italian cities, but all have somewhere to cross the desert, where +the trains are often robbed by wild tribes. Sometimes, as they come +nearer home, they are held by the Turks for heavy tribute, with such +loss that the merchants have been forced to turn to the sea in hopes +that a better way might be found. It was while searching for this route +that Columbus discovered the new world, and when the news of his success +was brought back to Europe there was great rejoicing, because it was +thought that he had reached some part of India. Magellan's voyage, +however, destroyed these hopes. He sailed for months down the eastern +shore of the new land, and discovered, far away to the south, a strait +through which he reached the great South Sea, but then he still sailed +on for nearly a year before he came to the Spice Islands and Asia. + +"Now every one believes that somewhere through this land to the north +of us there is a wide, deep sea passage from the North Sea [Atlantic] to +the South Sea [Pacific], by which ships may speedily reach India. This +passage is called the Strait of Anian. + +"The great captain, Hernando Cortez, the conqueror of New Spain [Mexico] +spent many years and a large fortune seeking for this water way. Four +different expeditions he sent out to explore this coast: most of them +at his own cost. In the second one his pilot, Jiminez, led a mutiny, +murdered his captain, and afterward discovered, accidentally, the +southern point of this land we are now exploring. But it was not the +good fortune of the noble Cortez to discover the strait. Our captain is +the next to take up the search, and may God send him success." + +After a stay of nearly a week in the bay of San Diego, Cabrillo +continued his voyage up the coast, sailing by day, anchoring at night. +He touched at an island which he named San Salvador, but which we know +as Santa Catalina. Here, by his kind and generous treatment, he won +the friendship of the natives. From this beautiful spot, he sailed, one +Sunday morning, to the mainland. Entering the Bay of San Pedro, he found +it enveloped in smoke. + +"It seems a fair port," said the commander, "but go no farther inland. +Drop anchor while we can see our way. We may well call this the Bay of +Smokes." The fires, they found, had been started by the Indians to drive +the rabbits from shelter, so they could be the more easily killed. + +Sailing on, the ships anchored off a thickly settled valley, where the +town of Ventura now lies. Here, on October 12, 1542, Cabrillo and his +company went on shore and took solemn possession of the land in the +name of the king of Spain and the viceroy of Mexico. Here, and along +the channel, the people were better-looking, more comfortably lodged and +clothed, than those farther south. They also had good canoes, which the +natives of the lower coast did not possess. Pushing on, the explorer saw +and noted the channel islands and rounded Point Conception. From here he +was driven back by contrary winds, and toward nightfall of a stormy day +found himself near the little island now named San Miguel. + +"We will call it La Posesion and take it for our own," said Cabrillo, +"for, if we can but make it, there seems to be a good harbor here." The +storm, however, grew more severe. The sea rose until occasionally +the waves swept over the smaller ship, which was without a deck. Here +occurred a most unhappy accident. Something about the ship, a spar +probably, loosened by the storm, fell and struck the brave commander, +breaking his arm. Although severely injured, he would not have the +wounds dressed until, after a long period of anxiety, the two ships +entered in safety the little harbor of San Miguel. + +Here, stormbound, they remained for a week. When they ventured forth, +they again met with high winds and bad weather. Cabrillo, who in spite +of discouragements never forgot his search for the strait, pushed close +inshore and kept much of the time on deck looking for some signs of a +river or passage. One morning at daybreak, after a rough night, they +found themselves drifting in an open bay. + +"It is a fine roadstead," said Cabrillo, coming on deck, as the sun rose +over the pine-covered hills. "Were it smaller, it would be a welcome +harbor. We will name it from those majestic trees La Bahia de Pinos, and +yonder long projection we will call the Cabo de Pinos." That bay is +now called Monterey, but the cape still bears the name given it by this +first explorer. + +Anchoring in forty-five fathoms of water, they tried to go on shore, in +order to take possession of the land, but the sea was so rough that they +could not launch their boats. The next day they discovered and named +some mountains which they called Sierra Nevada, and, sailing on, went +as far north as about 40. But this winter voyage was made at a great +sacrifice. The exposure and hardships, following the wound he had +received, were too much for even the hardy sailor Juan Rodriguez +Cabrillo. After weeks of struggle with storms, the ships were forced +back to their old shelter at San Miguel. Here Christmas week was spent, +but a sad holiday it was to the explorers, for their brave leader lay +dying. Nobly had he done his duty up to the last. + +"Juan," he said, to his young attendant, on Christmas Eve, "how gladly +the bells will be ringing in Lisbon to-night. I seem to hear them now. +They drive out all other sounds. Call Ferrelo and let no one else come +but the padre." Very soon Juan returned with Cabrillo's first assistant, +the pilot, Ferrelo, a brave navigator and a just man. + +"Ferrelo," said Cabrillo, faintly, "Death calls me, and the duty I lay +down you must take up. I command you to push the expedition northward +at all hazards, and to keep such records as are necessary in order that +fitting account of our voyage shall be given to the world. Will you +promise me to do this?" + +"I will, my master," said Ferrelo, simply. "To the best of my ability +will I take up your work." + +"Always looking for the strait, Ferrelo?" + +"Always, senor." + +On the 3d of January, 1543, the brave man died and was buried in the +sands of Cuyler Harbor on San Miguel Island. His men called the island +Juan Rodriguez. This name was afterwards dropped, but California should +see to it that the island is rechristened in honor of the great sailor +who sleeps there. + +Ferrelo later succeeded in sailing as far north as Cape Mendocino and +perhaps as far as 42, but, though he kept as close to the shore as +possible, he failed to discover the great bay whose waters, spreading +like a sheet of silver over sixty miles of country, lay hidden just +behind the Golden Gate. Near the Oregon line he was driven back by +storms, and returned to Mexico, where he published a full account of the +voyage. + + + +Drake + +In the town of Offenburg, Germany, there is a statue of a man standing +on the deck of a ship, leaning against an anchor, his right hand +grasping a map of America, his left, a cluster of bulbous roots. On +the pedestal is the inscription, "Sir Francis Drake, the introducer of +potatoes into Europe in the year of our Lord 1586." + +While it is doubtful whether this honor really belongs to Drake, an +Englishman, seeing the statue, would be inclined to say, "Is this all +that Germany has to tell of the great captain who led our navy against +the Spanish Armada; the first Englishman to sail around the world; +the most daring explorer, clever naval commander, expert seaman, brave +soldier, loyal friend, and gallant enemy of his time?" A Spaniard, on +the contrary, might well exclaim, "Why did Germany erect a statue to +this terrible man whom our poets call Dragontea [Dragon], this greatest +of all pirates, this terror of the sea?" All this, and more, might be +said of one man, who began life as a ship's boy. + +At the time Drake first went to sea, England and Spain were by no means +friendly. Henry the Eighth of England had ill-treated his wife, who was +a Spanish princess. In addition he had drawn the English people away +from the Church of Rome. These things were most displeasing to Spain, +but there was still another reason for disagreement. The interests +of the two countries were opposed commercially, and this was the most +important cause of contention. + +Spain claimed by right of discovery, and gift of the Pope of Rome, all +the land in the new world except Brazil (which belonged to Portugal), +and held that no explorers or tradesmen, other than her own, had any +rights on her waters or in her ports. English seamen denied much of this +claim, and so frequent were the disputes arising upon the subject that +the English sailors adopted as a maxim, "No peace beyond the line," +meaning the line which was, by the Pope's decree, the eastern boundary +of the Spanish claim. + +The favorite prey of the British mariners was the treasure ships +carrying to Spain the precious cargoes of gold and silver from the rich +mines of the new world. With the far richer ships of the Philippine and +Indian trade, sailing on unknown waters, they had not, up to Drake's +time, been able to interfere. + +Drake, when a very young man, had joined a trading expedition to Mexico. +While there the English were attacked by the Spanish in what the former +considered a most treacherous manner. Drake's brother and many of +his comrades were killed, and their goods taken. After the battle he +solemnly vowed to be revenged, and so thoroughly did he carry out his +resolution that he was for years the terror of the Spanish seamen, +and, by many of the superstitious common sailors, believed to be Satan +himself come to earth in human form. + +Shortly after this unfortunate expedition Drake engaged in a marauding +voyage to Panama, where he captured rich stores of gold and silver and +precious stones. He gained such renown for his bravery and seamanship +that upon coming home he found himself famous. + +Queen Elizabeth knew that Spain was opposed to her and her religion, and +was not in her heart displeased when her brave seamen got the better of +their Spanish rivals. She received Drake privately, and help was offered +him secretly from people who stood high in the government. With this +encouragement he resolved to embark on a most hazardous and daring +adventure. While in Panama he had seen, from a "high and goodlie tree" +on a mountain side, the great Pacific, and was immediately filled with +a desire to sail on its waters and explore its shores. He therefore +determined to cross the Atlantic, pass through the Strait of Magellan, +up the Pacific, and to plunder the Spanish towns along the coast of +South and Central America, until he should reach the region traversed by +the richly laden Spanish ships coming from India and the Philippines. It +is said that the queen herself put a thousand crowns into this venture. +One thing is certain, that he received sufficient help to fit out five +small vessels, with one hundred and sixty-four men. With these he sailed +from Falmouth, England, in December of 1577. With the exception of +perhaps one or two of the rich men who had helped him, no one, not even +his men, knew of his plans. + +After a long and interesting voyage in which one vessel was lost and the +others, though he did not know it, had deserted him, he found himself +with but one ship beating his way up the coast of Lower California. This +was his flagship Pelican, which he had rechristened the Golden Hind. +It was then so laden with rich booty, that it was like a hawk which +had stolen too heavy a chicken, driven this way and that by the winds, +scarcely able to reach its nest. + +In addition to a good store of Chile wines and foods of various kinds, +there were packed away in the hold of the Golden Hind, twenty-five +thousand pesos of gold, eight thousand pounds of English money, and a +great cross of gold with "emeralds near as large as a man's finger." +From one vessel Drake had taken one hundred-weight of silver; from a +messenger of the mines, who was sleeping beside a spring on the Peruvian +coast, thirteen bars of solid silver; off the backs of a train of little +gray llamas, the camels of the Andes, eight hundred pounds of silver; +and besides all these were large quantities of gold and silver that +were not recorded in the ship's list, and stores of pearls, diamonds, +emeralds, silks, and porcelain. + +The last prize taken was the Spanish treasure ship Cacafuegos. Drake had +transferred its cargo and crew to his own vessel and, for a time, manned +it with some of his men. Its noble commander, St. John de Anton, who +had been wounded in the attack, received every possible attention on +the English vessel, and in the report which he afterwards made to +the viceroy of Mexico, he told of the perfect order and discipline +maintained on the Golden Hind, and of the luxury which surrounded its +commander, who was treated with great reverence by his men. + +Before sailing on to the northward, Drake restored St. John and his crew +to their vessel. Then, because he feared that they might fall into the +hands of his fleet (having no suspicion that the other captains had +returned home), he gave the Spaniards the following letter, which shows +the great Englishman to have been more honorable than he is oftentimes +represented:-- + +"To Master Weinter and the Masters of the Other Ships of my Fleet: + +"If it pleaseth God that you should chance to meet with this ship of +St. John de Anton, I pray you use him well according to my promise given +him. If you want to use anything that is in the ship, I pray you pay him +double value for it, which I will satisfy again. And command your men +not to do any harm and what agreement we have made, at my return unto +England, I will, by God's help, perform, although I am in doubt that +this letter will ever come to your hand, notwithstanding I am the man I +have promised to be. + +"Beseeching God, the Saviour of the world, to have us all in his +keeping, to whom I give all honor, praise, and glory, + +"Your sorrowful captain, whose heart is heavy for you, + +"Francis Drake." + + +How to get home was the problem which this daring man had now to solve. +There was no possibility of returning by the way he had come. He well +knew that the news of his departure had reached Spain, and that her war +ships would be waiting for him, not only at the eastern entrance of the +Strait of Magellan, but at the Isthmus and in the Caribbean Sea. + +If by sailing northward he could find the Strait of Anian, then his +homeward journey would be safe and short; but if he could not find that +illusive body of water, then there was left to him but the Pacific for +a highway. However, this did not daunt him, as he felt that what the +Portuguese Magellan had done, Drake the Englishman could do. + +Keeping well out from shore, the Golden Hind now sailed northward for +nearly two months. Drake passed just west of the Farallon Islands, never +dreaming of the great harbor which lay so short a distance on the other +side. He traveled as far north as latitude 42 or possibly 43, and +perhaps he even landed at one point, but he failed to find the strait. +According to Fletcher, the priest of the Church of England who kept a +journal of the expedition, they were finally forced by the extreme cold +to turn southward. "Here," says Fletcher, "it pleased God on this +17th day of June, 1579, to send us, in latitude 38, a convenient fit +harbor." This is now supposed to be Drakes Bay, which lies thirty miles +northwest of San Francisco, in Marin county. + +"In this bay we anchored, and the people of the country having their +houses close to the waterside showed themselves unto us and sent +presents to our general. He, in return, courteously treated them and +liberally bestowed upon them things necessary to cover their nakedness. + +"Their houses are digged around about with earth and have for the brim +of that circle, clefts of wood set upon the ground and joined closely +together at the top like the spire of a steeple, which by reason of this +closeness are very warm. The men go naked, but the women make themselves +loose garments knit about the middle, while over their shoulders they +wear the skin of a deer." + +These people brought presents and seemed to want to offer sacrifices to +the strangers as gods, but Drake, hastily calling his men together, +held divine services, "To which, especially the prayers and music," says +Fletcher, "they were most attentive and seemed to be greatly affected." +The Bible used by Drake in this service is still to be seen in Nut Hall +House, Devonshire, England. + +Presently a messenger came, saying that the king wished to visit them +if they would assure him of their peaceful intentions. Drake sent him +presents, then marched his force into a kind of fort he had had made in +which to place such parts of the cargo as it was necessary to remove in +order to careen the ship for repairing. The coming of the chief is thus +described:-- + +"He came in princely majesty. In the fore-front was a man of goodly +personage who bore the scepter whereon was hung two crowns with chains +of marvelous length. The crowns were made of knit-work wrought with +feathers of divers colors, the chains being made of bony substances. + +"Next came the king with his guard, all well clothed in connie skins, +then the naked common people with faces painted, each bearing some +presents. After ceremonies consisting of speeches and dances, they +offered one of the crowns to Drake, who, accepting in the name of +Elizabeth, allowed it to be placed on his head." + +While the men were busy cleaning and repairing the ship, the commander +and his officers made excursions into the interior, visiting many Indian +towns and passing through wide plains where vast herds of deer, often +one thousand or more, all large and fat, were feeding on the rich +grasses. They also saw great numbers of what they called connies, which, +from their description, must have been ground squirrels, or else some +variety of animal now extinct. The country Drake named New Albion, +partly from its white cliffs, which resembled those of his native land, +and partly in belief that it would be easier to lay claim to the country +if it bore one of the names applied to England. + +"When the time came for our departure," continued Fletcher in his +journal, "our general set up a monument of our being here, so also, of +her majesty's right and title to the land: namely a plate nailed upon +a fair great post, whereon was engraved her majesty's name, the day and +year of our arrival, with the giving up of the province and people into +her majesty's hands, together with her highness' picture and arms in a +sixpence under the plate, whereunder was also written the name of our +general." + +Fletcher seemed not to know of Cabrillo's voyage, for he claimed that no +one had ever discovered land in this region, or for many degrees to the +south; while in fact Ferrelo with Cabrillo's ships had sailed as far +north as latitude 42, although we have no reason to think that he +landed in a higher latitude than that of Point Conception and San Miguel +Island. + +Once again solemn religious services were held by the Englishmen on the +hospitable soil that had been their home for over a month. Then they +went on board the ship, accompanied to the shore by the grieving +Indians, who would not be comforted when they saw their new friends +forsaking them. It was near the last of July in 1579 that Captain Drake +with his brave men began his wonderful homeward voyage. + +It was a triumphant return they made in September, a year later. Crowds +flocked to see the famous ship and its gallant commander. + +Some of the queen's statesmen strongly disapproved of Drake's attack +upon Spanish towns and vessels, and felt he should be arrested and tried +for piracy; but the common people cheered him wherever he went, and as a +crowning honor, in the luxurious cabin of his good ship Golden Hind, he +was visited by the great Elizabeth herself. When the banquet was over, +at the queen's command, he bent his knee before her, and this sovereign, +who, though a woman, dearly loved such courage and daring as he had +displayed, tapped him on the shoulder and bade him arise "Sir Francis +Drake." + + +Galli and Carmenon + +In 1584 Francisco Galli, commanding a Philippine ship, returning to +Mexico by way of Japan, sighted the coast of California in latitude 37 +30'. He saw, as he reported, "a high and fair land with no snow and many +trees, and in the sea, drifts of roots, reeds, and leaves." Some of the +latter he gathered and cooked with meat for his men, who were no doubt +suffering from scurvy. + +Galli wrote of the point where he first saw the coast as Cape Mendocino, +which would seem to imply that the point had been discovered and named +at some previous time, of which, however, there is no record. + +In 1595 Sebastian Carmenon, commanding the ship San Agustin, coming from +the Philippines, was given royal orders to make some explorations on +the coast of California, probably to find a suitable harbor for Manila +vessels. In doing so he was so unfortunate as to run his vessel ashore +behind Point Reyes, and to lighten her was obliged to leave behind a +portion of his cargo, consisting of wax and silks in boxes. There +is only the briefest record of this voyage, and no report of any +discoveries. + + +Vizcaino + +Almost sixty years after the voyage of Cabrillo, came a royal order from +the king of Spain to the viceroy of Mexico which, translated from the +Spanish, ran something like this:-- + +"Go, search the northern coast of the Californias, until you find a good +and sufficient harbor wherein my Manila galleons may anchor safe and +protected, and where may be founded a town that my scurvy-stricken +sailors may find the fresh food necessary for their relief. Furthermore, +spare no expense." + +The destruction of Spanish shipping by Drake and other English seamen +who followed his example, had caused great anxiety to the Spaniards and +was partly the reason for this order. + +"Send for Don Sebastian," said the viceroy. "He is a brave gentleman and +good sailor. He shall carry out the order of the king." But it took time +to fit out such an expedition, and it was not until an afternoon in +May, 1602, that Don Sebastian Vizcaino, on his flagship, the San Diego, +sailed out of the harbor of Acapulco into the broad Pacific. Closely +following him were his other ships, the San Thomas and Tres Reyes. + +There had been solemn services at the cathedral that afternoon. Officers +and men had taken of the holy communion; and now their wives and +children stood on the island at the entrance of the harbor, watching the +white sails as they grew fainter and fainter and at last disappeared in +the haze of the coming night. + +Then the watchers returned to their lonely homes with heavy hearts, +for in those days few came back who sailed out on the great South Sea. +Storms, battles with the natives, and scurvy made sad havoc among the +sailors. + +Early in November Vizcaino entered "a famous port," which he named San +Diego, finding it, as Padre Ascension's journal says, "beautiful and +very grand, and all parts of it very convenient shelter from the winds." +After leaving San Diego, the next anchoring place was the island named +by Vizcaino for Santa Catalina, on whose feast day his ships entered the +pretty little harbor of Avalon. + +The Spaniards were greatly pleased with the island and also with the +people, whom they described as being a large-figured, light-complexioned +race; all, men, women, and children, being well clothed in sealskins. +They had large dwellings, many towns, and fine canoes. What struck Padre +Ascension most strongly was their temple, of which he says: "There was +in the temple a large level court, and about this a circle surrounded +by feather work of different colors taken from various birds which I +understand had been sacrificed to their idols. Within this circle was +the figure of a demon painted in color after the manner of the Indians +of New Spain. On its sides were figures of the sun and moon. + +"It so fell out that when our soldiers came up from the ships to view +the temple, there were in the circle two immense ravens, far larger than +ordinary. When the men arrived, they flew away to some rocks that were +near by, and the soldiers seeing how large they were, raised their +arquebuses and killed them both. Then did the Indians begin to weep and +make great lamentation. I understand that the devil was accustomed +to speak to them, through these birds, for which they showed great +respect." + +There were in the island quantities of edible roots of a variety of the +yucca called gicamas, and many little bulbs which the Spanish called +"papas pequenos" (little potatoes). These, the padre said, the Indians +took in their canoes over to the mainland, thus making their living by +barter. This certainly must have been the beginning of commerce on the +coast. + +Vizcaino entered and named the Bay of San Pedro. To the channel islands +he also gave the names which they now bear. Sailing on, he discovered +a river which he named "Carmelo," in honor of the Carmelite friars who +accompanied him. The same day the fleet rounded the long cape called +"Point Pinos" and came to anchor in the bay formed by its projection. +From here the San Tomas was sent to Mexico to carry the sick, of whom +there were many, and to bring back fresh supplies. The men who remained +were at once set to work. Some supplied the two ships with wood and +water; others built a chapel of brush near the beach, under a large oak +at the roots of which flowed a spring of delicious water. In this chapel +mass was said and the Te Deum chanted. For over one hundred and fifty +years this oak was known, both in New Spain and at the court of the +king, as the "Oak of Vizcaino, in the Bay of Monterey." From here +Vizcaino wrote to the king of Spain as follows:-- + +"Among the ports of greater consideration which I have discovered is +one in 30 north latitude which I called Monterey, as I wrote to your +majesty in December. It is all that can be desired for commodiousness +and as a station for ships making the voyage from the Philippines, +sailing whence they make a landfall on this coast. It is sheltered from +all winds and in the immediate vicinity are pines from which masts of +any desired size could be obtained, as well as live oak, white oak, and +other woods. There is a variety of game, great and small. The land has +a genial climate and the waters are good. It is thickly settled by a +people whom I find to be of gentle disposition, and whom I believe can +be brought within the fold of the Holy Gospel and subjugation to your +majesty." + +This enthusiastic praise of the harbor of Monterey by a man who was +familiar with the port of San Diego, caused much trouble later, as will +be seen in the study of the founding of the missions. + +Not waiting for the return of the San Tomas, Vizcaino with his two ships +soon sailed northward, and reached a point in about latitude 42, which +was probably the northern limit reached by Cabrillo's ships and only a +little lower than the farthest explorations of Drake. Although Vizcaino +was looking for harbors, he yet passed twice outside the Bay of San +Francisco, the finest on the coast, without discovering it. After his +return to Mexico, Vizcaino endeavored to raise an expedition to found +a settlement at Monterey, even going to Spain to press the matter; but +other schemes were demanding the king's attention, and he would +give neither thought nor money to affairs in the new world; and so, +thoroughly disheartened Vizcaino returned to Mexico. + +From this time for over one hundred and fifty years there is no record +of explorations along this coast, either by vessels from Mexico or by +those coming from the Philippines. California seemed again forgotten. + +This is the story of the few voyages made to the coast of California +previous to its settlement. The first, under Cabrillo, was sent out by +the viceroy Mendoza, who hoped to gain fame and riches by the discovery +of the Strait of Anian, and by finding wealthy countries and cities +which were supposed to exist in the great northwest, about which much +was imagined but nothing known. + +Drake planned his voyage largely in pursuit of his revenge upon Spain, +partly for the plunder which he hoped to obtain from the Spanish towns +and vessels along the Pacific coast of America, and partly because of +his desire to explore the Pacific Ocean. + +Vizcaino also was expected to search for the strait, but he was +especially sent out to find a good harbor and place for settlement +on the California coast. This was intended in a great measure for the +benefit of the Philippine trade, but also to aid in holding the country +for Spain. + + + +Chapter IV + +The Cross of Santa Fe + + + +The kings highway which led up from Vera Cruz, the chief port of the +eastern coast of Mexico, to the capital city of New Spain had in the +eighteenth century more history connected with it than any other road in +the new world. Over it had passed Montezuma with all the splendor of +his pagan court. On it, too, had marched and counter marched his grim +conqueror, the great Cortez. Through its white dust had traveled an +almost endless procession of mules and slaves, carrying the treasures of +the mines of Mexico and the rich imports of Manila and India on toward +Spain. + +Over this road there was journeying, one winter day in the year 1749, +a traveler of more importance to the history of the state of California +than any one who had gone before. He was no great soldier or king, only +a priest in the brownish gray cloak of the order of St. Francis. He was +slight in figure, and limped painfully from a sore on his leg, caused, +it is supposed, by the bite of some poisonous reptile. The chance +companions who traveled with him begged him to stop and rest beside a +stream, but he would not. Then, as he grew more weary, they entreated +him to seek shelter in a ranch house near by and give up his journey. + +"Speak not to me thus. I am determined to continue. I seem to hear +voices of unconverted thousands calling me," was all the answer he +gave. So on foot, with no luggage but his prayer book, he limped out of +sight--the humble Spanish priest, Junipero Serra. + +While only a schoolboy, young Serra had been more interested in the +Indian inhabitants of the new world than in boyish pleasure. As he grew +older it became his greatest desire to go to them as a missionary. At +eighteen he became a priest; but it was not until his thirty-sixth year +that he gained the opportunity of which he had so long dreamed, when, +in company with a body of missionaries, among whom were his boyhood +friends, Francisco Palou and Juan Crespi, he landed at Vera Cruz. + +He was too impatient to begin his new work, to wait for the government +escort which was coming to meet them. So he started out on foot, with +only such companions as he might pick up by the way, to make the long +journey to the city of Mexico. + +Sixteen years later, attended by a gay company of gentlemen and ladies, +there traveled over this road one of Spain's wisest statesmen, Jose +de Galvez, whom the king had sent out to look after affairs in the new +world. Flourishing settlements were by this time scattered over a large +portion of Mexico, and even in the peninsula of Lower California there +were a number of missions. It was almost a hundred years before this +time that two Catholic priests of the Society of Jesus had asked +permission to found mission settlements among the Indians of this +peninsula. + +"You may found the missions if you like, but do not look to us for money +to help you," was the answer returned by the officers of the government. +So the two Jesuit priests set about collecting funds for the work. + +They were eloquent men, and the people who heard them preach became so +interested in the Indians that they were glad to give. And so, little by +little, this fund grew. As the good work went on, greater gifts poured +in. Whole fortunes were left them, and finally they had a very large +sum carefully invested in the city of Mexico. This was known as the Pius +Fund. From it was taken all the money needed for the founding of the +missions of Lower California; and, many years later, the expenses of +founding the twenty-one missions of Upper California came from the same +source. This fund became the subject of a long dispute between Mexico +and the United States, of which an account is given in Chapter XI. + +In 1767 all the Jesuit priests in New Spain were called back to Europe, +and a large portion of their wealth and missions on the peninsula were +given over to the order of St. Francis, with Junipero Serra at their +head. It was Galvez's duty to superintend this change, and while he +was on his way to the peninsula for that purpose he was overtaken by +an order from the king of Spain to occupy and fortify the ports of San +Diego and Monterey. The Spanish government had the description of these +ports furnished by Vizcaino in his account of his explorations in Upper +and Lower California over one hundred and sixty years before. + +The articles of the king's order were: first, to establish the Catholic +faith; second, to extend Spanish dominion; third, to check the ambitious +schemes of a foreign power; and lastly, to carry out a plan formed by +Philip the Third, as long ago as 1603, for the establishment of a town +on the California coast where there was a harbor suitable for ships of +the Manila trade. + +Galvez at once proceeded to organize four expeditions for the settlement +of Upper California, two by land, two by sea. Captain Portola, governor +of the peninsula, was put in command, with good leaders under him. +Still, Galvez was not satisfied. + +"This is all very well," he said; "these men will obey my orders, +but they do not care much whether this land is settled or not, and if +discouragements arise, back they will come, and I shall have the whole +thing to do over again. I must find some one who is interested in the +work, some one who will not find anything impossible. I think I shall +send for that lame, pale-faced priest, with the beautiful eyes, who has +taken up the work of these missions so eagerly." + +"So you think we can make the venture a success?" asked Galvez, after he +had talked over his plans with Junipero. + +"Surely," said Padre Serra, his eyes shining, his whole face glowing +with enthusiasm. "It is God's work to carry the cross of the holy faith +[Santa Fe] into the wilderness, and He will go with us; can you not hear +the heathen calling us to bring them the blessed Gospel? I can see that +I have lived all my life for this glorious day." + +Then they went to work, the priest and the king's counselor--down on the +wharf, even working with their own hands, packing away the cargo. + +"Hurry! Hurry!" said Galvez. The word was passed along, and in a short +time the four expeditions were ready. + +Many were the trials and discouragements of the various parties. Scurvy +was so severe among the sailors that one ship lost all its crew save two +men, and there were a number of deaths on another ship; while a third +vessel which started later was never heard from. Padre Junipero, who +accompanied the second land party, under the charge of Governor Portola, +became so ill from the wound on his leg that the commander urged him +to return; but he would not. Calling a muleteer who was busy after the +day's march, doctoring the sores on his animals, he said:-- + +"Come, my son, and cure my sores also." + +"Padre," exclaimed the man, shocked at the idea, "I am no surgeon; I +doctor only my beasts." + +"Think then that I am a beast, my child," said the padre, "and treat me +accordingly." + +The man obeyed. Gathering some leaves of the malva, or cheese plant, he +bruised them a little, heated them on the stones of the camp fire, and +spreading them with warm tallow, applied them to the wound. The next +morning the leg was so much better that the cure was thought to be a +miracle. Still the padre was very weak; and there was great rejoicing in +the party when at last they looked down from a height on San Diego +Bay, with the two ships--the San Carlos and the San Antonio--riding at +anchor, white tents on the beach, and soldiers grouped about. Salutes +were fired by the newcomers and returned by the soldiers and ships, and +very soon the four expeditions were reunited. + +On the next day, Sunday, solemn thanksgiving services were held. Then +for fourteen days all were busy attending to the sick, making ready for +the departure of the ship San Antonio, which was to be sent back for +supplies, and packing up food and other necessities for the journey to +Monterey. The San Antonio sailed on the 9th of July, 1769, and five days +later Governor Portola and two thirds of the well portion of the company +started overland to Monterey. + +Meantime Padre Junipero had been impatiently awaiting an opportunity to +begin his great work--the conversion of the heathen. He had written +back in his own peculiar way to his friend Padre Palou, whom he left in +charge of the missions of Lower California. + +"Long Live Jesus, Joseph, and Mary, This to Fray Francisco Palou. + +"My dear friend and Sir:-- + +"I, thanks be to God, arrived day before yesterday at this, in truth, +beautiful, and with reason famous, port of San Diego. We find Gentiles +[the name given to the wild Indians] here in great numbers. They seem to +lead temperate lives on various seeds and on fish which they catch from +their rafts of tule which are formed like a canoe." + +The second day after the departure of Portola and his party, Sunday, +July 16, Padre Serra felt that the glorious moment for which he had so +long prayed had at length arrived. The mission bells were unpacked and +hung on a tree, and a neophyte, or converted Indian, whom he had brought +with him from the peninsula, was appointed to ring them. As the sweet +tones sounded on the clear air, all the party who were able gathered +about the padre, who stood lifting the cross of Christ on high. All +joined in solemnly chanting a hymn, and a sermon was preached. Then with +more chanting, the tolling of, the bells, and the firing of muskets, was +concluded the ceremony of the founding of the first of the California +missions, that of San Diego. + +Portola and his men, in spite of many discouragements, traveled steadily +northward for nearly two months until at last, one October morning, they +saw what they thought to be Point Pinos, the name given by Cabrillo to +the pine-covered cape to the south of Monterey Bay. They were right in +thinking this Point Pinos, but the sad part is that when they climbed +a hill and looked down on the bay they had come so far to find, they +failed to recognize it. + +They tramped wearily over the sun-dried hills that bordered it, +and walked on its sandy beach, but could not believe the wide, open +roadstead, encircled by bare brown heights, could be the well-inclosed +port lying at the foot of hills richly green, so warmly described by +Vizcaino in his winter voyage. It was a great disappointment, for this +was the latitude in which they had expected to find Monterey. After +talking it over, they decided they must be still too far south, so they +tramped on for many days. + +On the last day of October, those of the party who were well enough, +climbed a high hill--(Point San Pedro on the west coast of the +peninsula)--and were rewarded by a glorious view. On their left the +great ocean stretched away to the horizon line, its waves breaking in +high-tossed foam on the rocky shore beneath them. Before them they saw +an open bay, or roadstead, lying between the point on which they stood, +and one extending into the sea far to the northwest. Upon looking at +their map of Vizcaino's voyage, they rightly decided that this farther +projection was Point Reyes; the little bay sheltered by the curve of its +arm was the one named on the map St. Francis, and now known as Drakes +Bay. Well out to sea they discovered a group of rocky islands which they +called Farallones; but not a man who stood on the height dreamed that +only a short distance to the right up the rocky coast there lay a bay +so immense and so perfectly inclosed that it would ever be one of the +wonders of the land they were exploring. + +On account of the sick of the party, among whom were the commander and +his lieutenant, it was decided to travel no further, but to camp here +while Sergeant Ortega was dispatched to follow the coast line to Point +Reyes and explore the little bay it inclosed. + +With a few men and three days' provisions consisting of small cakes made +of bran and water, which was the only food they had left, this brave +Spanish officer marched away, little imagining the honor which was +soon to be his. Leading this expedition, he was the first white man to +explore the peninsula where now stands the guardian city of the western +coast, and we must wonder what were his thoughts when, pushing his way +up some brush-covered heights, he came out suddenly upon the great bay +we call San Francisco. + +What a mighty surprise was that sixty miles of peaceful water that had +so long remained hidden from European explorers, baffling the anxious +gaze of Cabrillo, the faithful explorations of Ferrelo, the eagle eyes +of Drake, and the earnest search of Vizcaino! + +Pushing steadily on toward Point Reyes, Ortega encountered a second +surprise, when from the Presidio hills he looked down on beautiful +Golden Gate, whose rumpled waters seemed to say:-- + +"No farther can you come. We keep guard here." + +Seeing that it was quite impossible for him to reach Point Reyes, Ortega +decided to return to Portola. He found the commander and his party so +weakened by sickness and the lack of food that it had been decided to +explore no farther, but to return at once to the southern mission. After +a painful march of sixty days the party reached San Diego. + +Bitter was the disappointment of Padre Junipero Serra at the failure to +found the mission of Monterey. He did not believe, as many of the party +reported, that the bay was filled up with sand. Keener still was his +grief when Portola, after looking over the supply of food, announced +that unless the ship San Antonio or the sloop San Jose arrived by +a certain date with provisions, they would have to abandon Upper +California and return to the peninsula. + +The padre at once called the people together for a nine days' session of +prayer and other church services at which to pray for the coming of the +relief boat. Portola, though he attended the services, went steadily on +with his preparations for departure. On the morning of the day before +the one set for the beginning of the march toward Lower California, +the padres went to the heights overlooking the bay, where they remained +watching and praying. At sea a heavy fog hung over the water. Hour after +hour passed as they gazed out on the lovely bay. Noon came, but they +would not return to the mission to rest or eat. The afternoon wore away, +the sun sank in the clouds above the horizon, then, as all hope seemed +gone, the fog was lifted by a sunset breeze, and there, far out at sea, +they saw a white sail. The good men fell on their knees in thanksgiving, +while their Indian servants ran to carry the news to camp. + +This vessel, the San Antonio, brought not only abundant provisions but +fresh orders from Galvez to hurry the work at Monterey. The settlement +of Upper California was now made certain. + +An expedition by land and the San Antonio by sea immediately started +northward. A few weeks later Padre Junipero wrote to Padre Palou: "By +the favor of God, after a month and a half of painful navigation, +the San Antonio found anchor in this port of Monterey, which we find +unvarying in circumstances and substance as described by Don Sebastian +Vizcaino." + +They even found Vizcaino's oak. Indeed, it is said on good authority, +that the oak remained standing until 1838, when the high tides washed +the earth from its roots so that it fell. + +Soon the land expedition arrived, and one June morning in 1770 the +members of the two parties, all in their best attire, were gathered on +the beach for the purpose of founding the second mission. It must have +been a pretty scene,--the stanch little vessel San Antonio, gay with +bunting, swinging at anchor a short distance out, while on shore were +grouped the sailors in the bright dress of seamen of those times, the +soldiers in leather uniform, the governor and his staff in the handsome +costumes of Spanish officials, and the padres in their gray robes. Close +beside the oak a brush house had been built, bells hung, and an altar +erected. While the bells tolled, the solemn service of dedication was +held by Padre Junipero, and so was founded the Mission San Carlos de +Borromeo at Monterey. + +Near each of the earlier coast missions there was also founded a +military station called a presidio, a name borrowed from the Roman +presidium. The word meant a fort or fortified town. These presidios were +intended to guard the safety of the missions from the wild Indians, and +to defend the coast from ships of other countries. + +After the religious services Governor Portola proceeded to found the +presidio and take formal possession in the name of the king of Spain by +hoisting and saluting the royal banner, pulling up bunches of grass, and +casting stones, which was an ancient manner of taking possession of a +piece of land or country. The presidio of Monterey was for a long time +the site of the capital of Upper California and therefore most important +in the history of the state. + +For the sake of better land and water the mission site was soon removed +about six miles, to the Carmelo River. Although not so wealthy as some +of the missions, it was the home of Padre Junipero Serra, president of +all the missions, and so its history is especially interesting. + +The news of the settlement of San Diego and Monterey was received in +Mexico with great joy, and it was resolved to found five more missions +above San Diego. Four of these were San Gabriel, near the present site +of Los Angeles; San Luis Obispo, farther north; San Antonio; and San +Francisco. Before leaving the peninsula, Padre Serra had asked Galvez, +"And for Father Francisco, head of our order, is there to be no mission +for him?" To which Galvez had replied, "If Saint Francis wants a +mission, let him cause his port to be found and it will be placed +there." When the beautiful bay was discovered by Sergeant Ortega, it +was thought that this might be the harbor Saint Francis intended for +himself, but before naming it for the head of the order it was necessary +that it should be explored. Although two land expeditions were sent up +for this purpose, they were unsuccessful; and it was not until August, +1775, about four months after the eventful battle of Lexington had taken +place on the Atlantic coast, that white men first entered the Bay of San +Francisco in a ship. + +Lieutenant Ayala of the Spanish navy, with the San Carlos, had the honor +of conducting this expedition. + +He reached the entrance to the bay just as night was coming on. Not +liking to trust his vessel in a strange harbor, he sent forward a boat +to make explorations, and then, as it was a little slow in returning, +he daringly pushed on in the darkness into the unknown water. His small +craft bobbed and plunged in the rough water of the bar, darted through +Golden Gate, and came safely to anchor near North Beach. Soon after +this exploration it was settled that here Saint Francis should have his +mission. + +Padre Junipero Serra appointed his friend Francisco Palou, who had now +joined him in his work in Upper California, to make this settlement, and +on the 9th of October, 1776, there was founded in that portion of San +Francisco known as the Mission District, at the corner of Sixteenth +and Dolores streets, the mission of San Francisco. This is often called +Mission Dolores from the name of a small lake and stream beside which +it was built. To-day the name San Francisco rests not only on the old +mission building, with its white pillars, but on the beautiful city +which is the metropolis of our western coast. + +As fast as possible Padre Junipero hastened the establishment of +missions, choosing those places where there were the largest native +settlements. In the vicinity of Monterey Bay there were, besides the San +Carlos mission, Santa Cruz on the northern curve of the bay, and in the +fertile valley back of the Santa Cruz Mountains the missions of Santa +Clara, San Jose, and San Juan Bautista. Farther south on a lonely height +stood Soledad, and much farther south, San Miguel. + +The Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel, of whom there were a great +many, were more intelligent and industrious than in other portions of +the country settled by the missionaries, and here were the missions of +Santa Barbara, San Buenaventura, La Purisima, and Santa Inez. + +In the south, in the fertile valley where are now the great grain fields +of Los Angeles county, San Fernando was founded. Between San Gabriel and +San Diego were placed San Juan Capistrano, San Luis Rey, and the chapel +of Pala. San Rafael and Solano, to the north of San Francisco Bay, +complete the list of twenty-one missions of Upper California. + +It is impossible to give more than the names of most of these missions, +although about each many true and beautiful stories might be told. It +would be well if those who live near one of these noble ruins would seek +out its particular history and the stories connected with it. This would +be interesting and helpful work for the students in the schools of the +state. + +The story of the missions seems like a fairy tale, wonderful and +unreal. Into a wilderness inhabited only by savage men and wild animals, +hundreds of miles from any civilized settlement, there came these men +trained as simple priests. + +Two by two they came, bringing with them, for the starting of each +mission, a few soldiers, seven to ten, a few converted Indians from +the missions of Lower California, a little live stock, some church +furniture, and always the bells; yet in a little over forty years they +had succeeded in founding a chain of missions whose sweet-toned bells +chimed the hours and called to prayer from San Diego to the Bay of San +Francisco. + +Churches were built larger and often of a purer type of architecture +than those in the civilized well-settled portions of the +land,--buildings that have lasted for a hundred years and may last many +years longer if care is taken to preserve them. Canals of stone and +cement and dams of masonry were constructed that would do credit to our +best workmen of to-day. + +The little packages of wheat and other grains, seeds from Spanish +oranges and olives, little dried bundles of grapevines from Mexico, +developed, under their care, into the great fields of grain, groves +of oranges and olives, and the wide-spreading vineyards of the mission +ranches. All these wonders were performed with Indian workmen trained by +the padres. + +But what the missionaries cared for more than their success in building +and planting were the thousands of baptized Indians at each mission. +These they instructed daily for the good of their souls in the truths of +the Christian religion, while for their bodily needs they were taught to +plow the earth, to plant seed, to raise and care for domestic animals. +They learned also many useful trades; and music, frescoing, and art were +taught those who seemed to have an especial taste for such things. + +At the head of this great work was gentle Padre Junipero Serra, the most +interesting character in the history of the missions. He was frail and +slender and much worn by constant labor of head and hands, but his every +thought and action seemed to be for others. Back and forth from Monterey +to San Diego, from mission to mission, he traveled almost constantly, +teaching, baptizing, confirming thousands of his dusky charges. He was +president of all the missions, and besides this was bishop, doctor, +judge, and architect, as well as steward of the mission products and +money. + +Associated with him in his work were a group of noble men whose lives +were spent in caring for the native people with whom they worked and +among whom they finally died. The inhabitants of California may well +honor the mission padres for their earnest, unselfish lives, and in no +way can this be done so fully as in the preservation of the grand old +buildings they left behind, which are indeed fitting monuments to their +devotion, energy, and skill. + +Beginning with San Diego, let us, in fancy, visit the missions in the +early part of the nineteenth century. + +It is a winter day in the year 1813 when we ride up the broad, +wind-swept road which leads to the newly dedicated mission building of +San Diego. The wide plain that surrounds it is green with native grass +and the blades of young wheat. Of the two hundred cattle, one hundred +sheep, one hundred horses, and twenty asses brought up by Padre Junipero +in 1769 to be divided among the earlier missions, San Diego had only its +due share; yet under the wise management of the padres, they have now at +this mission, feeding on the green plains, thousands of cattle, horses, +and sheep, which are tended by comfortably clothed Indian herders. Near +the mission are the green and gold of orange orchards, the gray of the +olive, and the bare branches of extensive vineyards. At one side we +see a large kitchen garden where young Indians are at work planting and +hoeing. + +As we draw up in front of the church, Indian servants come out to take +our horses. We dismount, and a padre who is superintending work in +the orchard comes and welcomes us with gentle courtesy. He sends us a +servant to show us to our room, a small square apartment with a hard +earthen floor and bare, whitewashed walls with no ornament but a cross. +The beds are of rawhide stretched over a frame. The covering consists +of sheets of coarse cotton grown and woven at the southern missions, +and blankets, coarse but warm, made by the Indians from the wool of the +mission sheep. + +Dinner at the padre's table we find most enjoyable. There is beef +and chicken, the frijole, or red bean of Spain, and other vegetables +prepared in a tasty manner peculiar to Spanish cooking, so we do not +doubt that the cook has been taught his trade by the padre himself. The +Indian boys who wait on the table also show careful training, performing +their duties quickly and quietly. Here we can find for bread the +tortilla,--still the food of the Indian and Mexican people of +California. It is a thin cake made of meal or flour and water, and baked +without grease on a hot stone or griddle. Wines made at the mission, +the favorite chocolate, thick and sweet, and some fruit from the padre's +garden complete the meal. + +Dinner over, we visit the church and admire the striking contrast +between the red tiles of the roof and the creamy white of the walls. +All the buildings are made of bricks molded from a clay called adobe +and dried slowly in the sun. Each brick is twelve inches square by four +inches thick, and the walls are laid two or three bricks deep, those of +the church itself being nearly four feet in thickness. It seems almost +impossible that so large and well made a building could have been +constructed by untrained workmen. Next to the church are the rooms of +the padres, then the dining room and the quarters of the mission +guard, which consists apparently of but two men, the rest being at the +presidio, several miles away. Adjoining these are the storehouses and +shops of the Indian workmen, all of which open on the great courtyard. + +In the courtyard is a busy scene. Blacksmiths with hammer and anvil make +sounding blows as they work up old iron into needed farm utensils. The +soap maker's caldron sends up a cloud of ill-smelling steam. At one side +carpenters are at work trimming and cutting square holes in logs for the +beams of new buildings which the padres wish to put up. Saddle makers, +squatted on the ground, are busy fashioning saddletrees, carving, and +sewing leather. The shoemaker is hard at work with needle and awl. These +and many other trades are all going on at once. These courts, which are +called patios, were generally several acres in extent and at the most +flourishing period of the missions each settlement often gave shelter to +over a thousand people. + +Behind the central court is the home of the unmarried women. This, and +the rooms for their work, open on a separate square where there is shade +from orange and fig trees and a bathing pond supplied by the zanja, or +water ditch. Here square-figured, heavy-featured Indian girls are busy +spinning and weaving thread into cloth. Others are cutting out and +sewing garments. Some, squatted on the ground, are grinding corn into a +coarse meal for the atole, or mush. At the zanja several are engaged in +washing clothes. Here these girls live under the care of an old Indian +woman, and unless she accompanies them they may not, until they are +married, go outside these walls. Near the mission we visit a long row +of small adobe buildings, the homes of the families of the Christian +Indians; a neat, busy settlement where the little ones, comfortably +clothed, play about attended by the older children, while the mothers +work for the padres four or five hours daily. + +Leaving San Diego and traveling northward along "El Camino Real," the +highway which leads from mission to mission, we reach San Luis Rey, +"King of the Missions," as it is sometimes called. Its church is the +largest of all those erected by the padres, being one hundred and sixty +feet long, fifty-eight feet wide, and sixty feet high. Its one square, +two-story tower has a chime of bells, the sweet clear tones of which +reached our ears while we were yet miles from the mission. Counting +the arches of the long corridor, we find there are two hundred and +fifty-six. This mission became very wealthy. At one time it had a +baptized Indian population of several thousand, owned twenty-four +thousand cattle, ten thousand horses, and one hundred thousand sheep, +and harvested fourteen thousand bushels of grain a year. + +Its prosperity was due in a great measure to good Padre Peyri, who had +charge of it from its beginning. Many years afterwards, as we shall +see, the padres were ordered by the Mexican government to leave their +missions, the wealth they had gathered, and the Indians they had taught +and cared for. Father Peyri, knowing how hard it would be for him to get +away from his Indian children, as he called them, slipped off by night +to San Diego. In the morning the Indians missed him. Learning what had +happened, five hundred of them mounted their ponies in hot haste and +galloped all the way to San Diego, forty-five miles, to bring him back +by force. They arrived just as the ship, with Padre Peyri on board, +was weighing anchor. Standing on deck with outstretched arms, the padre +blessed them amid their tears and loud cries. Some flung themselves into +the water and swam after the ship. Four reached it, and, climbing up +its sides, so implored to be taken on board that the padre consented and +carried them with him to Rome, where one afterwards became a priest. + +The next link in our chain, the most beautiful of all the missions, is +that of San Juan Capistrano. It was founded in 1776, the year of +our Declaration of Independence, but in 1812 it was destroyed by an +earthquake, the massive towers and noble arch falling in on the Indians, +who were assembled in the church for morning prayers. Many of them were +killed. The church has never been rebuilt. + +It is Christmas Day when we reach San Gabriel, the next station on El +Camino Real. Inside the great cactus fence which incloses the square +about the mission we see a strangely mixed company,--Indians in their +best clothes, their faces shining from a liberal use of mission soap and +water; soldiers in their leather suits freshened up for the holiday; +a few ranchmen in the gay dress of the times, riding beautiful horses; +women and girls each brilliant in a bright-colored skirt with shawl or +scarf gracefully draped over head and shoulders. + +The Christmas Day morning service, held at four o'clock and known by the +common people as the Rooster Mass, is long since over. The crowd is now +gathered for the Pastorel, which, like the miracle plays of the Middle +Ages, is a drama with characters taken from the Bible. + +First to appear on the scene is an orchestra composed of young Indians +playing violins, bass viols, reeds, flutes, and guitars. Closely +following come the actors, representing San Gabriel and attendant +angels, Satan, Blind Bartimeus, and a company of shepherds. The +entertainment is very simple. There is the announcement of the birth of +the Savior, the adoration of the babe, and the offering of gifts. The +play concludes with a protracted struggle between San Gabriel and Satan +for the possession of Blind Bartimeus, in which the saint finally comes +off victor while the orchestra plays lively music. After the Pastorel +there are games, dancing, and feasting. Every one seems happy, and it is +with regret that we leave the gay scene. + +Through the hills to the north, across the Arroyo Seco, not dry now, but +a swift stream turbulent from the winter rains, we journey on. We pass +Eagle Rock, a great bowlder high upon the green hillside, one of the +landmarks of the region, and enter the valley of the Los Angeles River. +After traveling for several hours, we come to a large plantation of +trees, vines, and grainfields, in the midst of which lies the mission +of San Fernando. Its land extends for miles on every side and is +exceedingly fertile. In front of the beautiful cloisters, under tall +and stately palm trees, a fountain sends high its sparkling water, which +falls back with pleasant tinkle into a basin of carved stone. + +When we reach San Buenaventura, the next mission on our route, we find +priests and Indians exceedingly busy, for word has come from Monterey +that a Yankee trading vessel will soon sail for the south, and cattle +must be killed and the fat rendered into tallow for the market. As hides +and tallow are about the only commodities the padres have for sale, this +is an important event. Indians tend the caldrons of bubbling grease, and +keep up the fires under the kettles. When the tallow is slightly cooled, +they pour it into sacks made from the skins of animals. These, when +filled with the hardened tallow, look as though each again held a plump +beast. + +Traveling up the coast we come one afternoon to + +A golden bay 'neath soft blue skies Where on a hillside creamy rise The +mission towers whose patron saint Is Barbara--with legend quaint. + +Here spring is merging into summer, and we are in time to see the +ceremony which closes the wheat harvest. The workmen gather the last +four sheaves from the field, and, fastening them in the form of a cross, +carry them, followed by a long procession of dusky reapers, up the +ascent to the church. As they approach, the bells burst out in a joyous +peal, and from the mission doors the padres come forth, one bearing a +cross, another the banner of the Virgin. A choir of Indian boys follows, +chanting a hymn. All advance slowly down the avenue to meet the sheaf +bearers, then counter march to the church, where the harvest festival is +celebrated. + +Passing by other missions, we must close our journey with a visit to San +Carlos, the Monterey mission, most prominent of all in the history of +the church and state. It was from the first the special charge of Padre +Junipero Serra, and, at the time we see it, his monument as well; for in +it at last his weary body was laid to rest beside his friend Padre Juan +Crespi, to whose writings, next to those of Padre Francisco Palou, we +are most indebted for our knowledge of Junipero Serra and his great +work. In 1813, with its graceful arched front and two towers, San Carlos +was a noble-looking building, but since that time one tower has fallen. + +We are reminded, as we look, of the scene when Junipero lay dying. Ever +since morning the grief-stricken people had been waiting, listening for +the news from the sick room. When the tolling of the bell announced that +the beautiful life was ended, crowds came weeping and lamenting, anxious +to see again the beloved face. + +It was with great difficulty that the Indians could be kept from tearing +the padre's robe from his body, so earnestly did they desire to possess +some relic of the father they had loved so long. + +Here we notice the daily life of the Indian, which (in 1813) is the same +at all the missions. At sunrise comes the sound of the bells calling +to the morning prayers, and we see the natives hurrying to the church. +After service they gather for breakfast of mush and tortillas. As the +flocks and herds have increased, meat forms part of the daily food, +sometimes from the freshly killed beeves, but generally in a dried state +called carne seco. After breakfast the workers go in groups to their +various employments. Dinner is served at eleven, and they have a resting +period until two. Then work is again taken up and continued until +an hour before sunset, when the bells call to evening prayer. Supper +follows the evening service, after which the Indians can do as they like +until bedtime. We see some engaged in a game of ball. Many are squatted +on the ground playing other games,--gambling, we suspect. In one group +there is dancing to the music of violin and guitar. There is laughter +and chattering on all sides, and to us they seem happy, at least for the +time. + +The life led by the Indians at the missions was not generally a +hard one. No doubt when they first came, or were brought, into the +settlements, from their free wild life, they found it harder to keep the +regular hours of the missions than to perform the work, which was seldom +very heavy. When disobedient or lazy, they were punished severely, +judging by the standards of to-day, but really no harder than was at +that time the custom in schools and in navies the world over. When the +soldiers came in contact with the natives, there was generally cruel +treatment for the latter. But as far as possible the padres stood +between their charges and the soldiers, always placing the mission as +far from the presidio as the safety of the former would allow. + +At San Diego, about five years after its settlement, wild Indians +surprised the mission guard, and killed the padre and several of the +converted Indians in a most cruel manner. The Spanish government gave +orders that the murderers should be taken and executed and this mission +abandoned; but Padre Junipero begged so hard for the culprits, who, he +said, knew no better, having no knowledge of God, that he was finally +allowed to have his way. Gentleness and patience won the day; not only +the Indians who made the attack were converted, but many more of their +tribe, and the mission became a flourishing settlement. There was once +a rebellion among the Santa Clara and San Jose Indians, led by a young +convert from Santa Clara, which required soldiers from Monterey to put +down. Generally, however, the mission life was peaceful, the Indians +being fond of their padres. + +When Mexico became free from Spain, no more money was sent up to pay the +soldiers or run the government in Upper California, and for a long time +the missions advanced the money for the expenses of the government. + +After a time the new priests who came up from Mexico were not generally +men of such education and noble character as the early mission padres. +They cared less for missionary work, and were not so energetic. Their +influence was not always good for the Indians, who quickly saw the +difference between them and their old padres. They had little confidence +in the newcomers, so at the few missions where such as these were in +charge the Indians were disobedient, and received harsh punishments from +the padres; and trouble followed. + +In 1833 the Mexican government decided to confirm the mandate issued by +Spain several years before in regard to the breaking up of the mission +settlements. By this law each Indian was to have his own piece of land +to own and care for. He was to be no longer under the control of the +church, but to be his own master like any other citizen. As for the +padres, they were to give up their wealth and lands, and leave for other +missionary fields. That this would create a great change in California +all realized; still it was no new idea, but the plan Spain had in mind +when the missions were first founded. The mistake was in supposing that +it was possible for a people to rise in so short a time from the +wild life of the California Indian to the position of self-supporting +citizens in a civilized country. + +When the Indians understood this order, some were pleased and, +like children when freed from restraint, ceased to work and became +troublesome. Many, however, when they found that the padres were to +leave them, became very unhappy; some, it is said, even died from +homesickness for the mission and the padre. One committed suicide. + +It was soon seen that they were not fitted to look after themselves. +Only a few years had passed since they were savages, knowing nothing of +civilized life, and they still needed some one to guide them. They not +only began to drink and gamble, but were cheated and ill-treated on all +sides, until many of them became afraid of living in towns and went back +to wild life. For this they were no longer fitted, and they suffered so +much from hunger and cold that great numbers of them died. + +Because the Indians were not capable of caring for themselves at +the time of the secularization of the missions, the padres are often +severely blamed. It is said that they tried to keep the natives without +knowledge, in fact something like slaves. But the truth is that the +padres taught them by thousands, not only to cultivate the soil, to +irrigate wisely, to raise domestic cattle, but to work at every trade +that could be of use in a new country. They were encouraged to choose +from among themselves alcaldes, or under officers of the mission. +In this way every inducement was given to the Indian showing himself +capable of self-control, to rise to a prominent position in his little +world, where he generally ruled his fellow-workmen wisely and kindly. + +Added to this, the Indians acquired, through the teaching and example of +the padres, a religion that has lasted through generations. The breaking +up of the mission settlements scattered the Indians through the country, +many of them going back to the wild life in the forest and mountains, +where they no longer had any religious instructions. Yet to-day, after +all the years that have passed, there are few Indians from San Diego to +San Francisco who do not speak the language of the padres and follow, +though it may be but feebly, the teaching of the Catholic faith, the +"Santa Fe" of the padres. + +Some of the mission buildings, many of the flocks, and much of the land +fell into the hands of men who had no possible right to them. Orchards +and vineyards were cut down, cattle killed and stolen, and there was +only ruin where a short time before there had been thousands of busy +people leading comfortable lives. Soon the churches were neglected +and began to crumble away, bats flew in and out of the broken arches, +squirrels chattered fearlessly in the padre's dining room, and the only +human visitor was some sad-hearted Indian worshiper, slipping timidly +into the desolate building to kneel alone before the altar where once + + Sweet strains from dusky neophytes + Rose up to God in praise, + When life centered 'round the missions + In the happy golden days. + + + +Chapter V + +Pastoral Days + + + +For hundreds of years poets have written and singers have sung of the +loveliness of a country life, where there is no gathering together of +the inhabitants in great cities, no struggle to make money, where the +people live much out of doors, are simple in their tastes, healthy and +happy. + +These dreams of an ideal life the Spanish-speaking settlers of early +California made real. In this land of balmy airs, soft skies, and gentle +seas there lived, in the old days, a people who were indifferent +to money, who carried their religion into their daily pleasures and +sorrows, were brotherly toward one another, contented, beautiful, +joyous. + +About the time that the mission of San Francisco was founded, the +Spanish government decided to lay out two towns, or pueblos, where it +was thought the fertile character of the soil would lead the settlers +to raise grain and other supplies, not only for themselves but for the +people of the presidios. Up to this time a large part of the food had +been brought, at a considerable cost, from Mexico. + +We know that the governor, Felipe de Neve, chose the town sites with +care, for in the whole state there are nowhere more beautiful and +fertile spots than San Jose, near the southern end of San Francisco Bay, +and Los Angeles, near the famous valley of the San Gabriel River. In +founding these two pueblos, and a third which was located where Santa +Cruz now stands, the plan pursued was interesting and somewhat different +from the methods of settlement on the eastern coast of our country. + +First there was chosen a spot for the plaza, or central square, care +being taken that it was not far from good grazing land suitable for +the settlers' stock. Around the plaza, lots were set apart for the +courthouse, town hall, church, granaries, and jail. Next were the lots +for the settlers, who each had, besides his home spot, several acres of +farming land with water, and the right to use the pasture lands of the +town. To each family was given, also, two horses, two cows, two oxen, +a mule, several goats, sheep, chickens, farming implements, and a small +sum in money. + +Instead of asking tax money of the town people, some of the land was +reserved as public property to be rented out, the proceeds to be used +for the expenses of the government. Many people believe that this is the +wisest plan man has yet discovered for managing the expenses of a city, +town, or country. + +Los Angeles had for many years a large amount of this land near the +center of the town, belonging to the city government. Gradually it was +taken up by settlers or appropriated by officials until, when the place +grew large and thriving, it was found that the land had become private +property; and finally the city had to pay large sums for parks and land +for public buildings. + +Each pueblo was ruled by an alcalde, or mayor, and council, chosen by +the people. To advise with these officers, there was a commissioner who +represented the governor of the country. During the first few years the +pueblo was governed largely by the commissioner. Presidios, which were, +at first, forts with homes for the commander, officers, soldiers, and +their families, and were ruled by the commanding officer or comandante, +gradually became towns; and then they, too, had their alcalde and +council. There were four presidios--Monterey, San Francisco, San Diego, +and Santa Barbara. + +In spite of all the gifts of free land, stock, and money, it was hard +to secure a suitable class of settlers. Many of those who came up from +Mexico to live in the pueblos were idle or dissipated, and nearly all +uneducated. When, after several years, a Spanish officer was sent down +from Monterey to convey to the Los Angeles settlers full title to their +lands, he found that not one of the twenty-four heads of families +could sign his name. Later a much better class of people came into +the country--men of education, brave, hardy members of good Spanish +families, who obtained grants of land from the government, bought cattle +from the mission herds, and began the business of stock raising. + +This was the beginning of the pastoral or shepherd life. Each rancho was +miles in extent, its cattle and horses numbered by thousands. The homes +were generally built around a court into which all the rooms opened, and +were constructed of adobe bricks such as were used at the missions. In +the better class of homes several feet of the space in the courtyard +next the wall were covered with tile roofing, forming a shaded veranda, +where the family were accustomed to spend the leisure hours. Here they +received visitors, the men smoked their cigaritos, and the children made +merry. In the long summer evenings sweet strains of Spanish music from +violin and guitar filled the air, and the hard earthen floor of the +courtyard resounded to the tap-tap of high-heeled slippers, the swish of +silken skirts, and the jingle of silver spurs, as the young people took +part in the graceful Spanish dances. + +It was no small matter to rule one of these great households. La Patrona +(the mistress) was generally the first one up. "Before the sun had +risen," said a member of one of the old families, "while the linnets and +mocking birds were sounding their first notes, my mother would appear +at our bedside. 'Up, muchachos, up, muchachas, and kneel for your Alba!' +The Alba was a beautiful prayer of thanksgiving for care during the +night, with a plea for help through the dangers and temptations of the +day. No excuse for lying abed was accepted; up, and on the floor we +knelt, then she passed on to where the mayordomo, or foreman, and his +men were gathering in the courtyard. Here, too, was the cook with the +Indian maids, busy making tortillas for the morning meal. 'Your Albas, +my children,' my mother would say in her clear, firm voice. Down would +drop mayordomo, vaqueros, cook, and Indian girls, all devoutly reciting +the morning prayer. + +"After their prayer the children might, if they chose, return to their +beds, but before sleep could again overtake them there would probably +come from a distant room the voice of their aged grandfather asking them +questions from the Spanish catechism. + +"'Children, who made you?' he would call in a quavering voice. + +"A chorus of small voices would sing-song in response, 'El Dios' [God]. + +"Again he would question, 'Children, who died for you?' + +"Again the reply, 'El Dios.' + +"By the time the questions were all answered there was no chance for +more sleep." + +Nothing was taken with the morning coffee but the tortilla. This was a +thin cake made of meal from corn ground by Indian women who used for the +grinding either a stone mortar and pestle, or a metate. The metate was a +three-legged stone about two feet in length and one in breadth, slightly +hollowed out in the center; grain was ground in this by rubbing with a +smaller stone. It took a great number of tortillas to serve the large +household. One Indian maid, kneeling beside a large white stone which +served as table, mixed the meal, salt, and water into balls of dough. +These she handed to another girl, who spatted them flat and thin by +tossing them from one of her smooth bare arms to the other until they +were but a little thicker than a knife blade. The cook then baked them +on a hot dry stone or griddle, turning them over and over to keep them +from burning. + +El Patron (the master) usually rose early, and after his coffee, put on +his high, wide-brimmed sombrero, and, attended by his sons, if they were +old enough, and his mayordomo, rode over his estate, looking after the +Indian vaqueros and workmen. One gentleman, a member of a fine Spanish +family which lived in the southern part of the state, used to ride +out with his sixteen sons, all of whom were over six feet in height. +Generally the families were large, often comprising twelve children or +more. These made merry households for the little people. + +After breakfast it was the duty of the mistress to set the host of +Indian girls to their tasks. The padres were always glad to let the +young Indian girls from the mission go into white families where there +was a wise mistress, that they might be trained in both religious and +domestic duties. Going to the gate of the courtyard, the Patrona would +call, "To the brooms, to the brooms, muchachas," adding, if it were +foggy, "A very fine morning for the brooms, little ones;" and out would +come running a cluster of Indian girls carrying each a broom. At the +work they would go, sweeping as clean as a floor the courtyard and +ground for a large space about the house. + +Next they flocked to the sewing room, often sixteen or eighteen of these +girls, to take up their day's work under the mistress's eye. Some made +garments for the ranch hands, those who were better work women attended +to the making of clothing for the family, while the girls who were the +most skillful with the needle fashioned delicate, fine lace work and +embroidery. + +The children were seldom indoors unless it rained. There were no +schools; there were few ranches where there were teachers, and the +fathers and mothers generally had their hands too full to devote +themselves to their children's education, so in the early days it was +all playtime. Later, schools were started for boys, and dreadful places +they were. + +As General Vallejo describes them, they were generally held in a narrow, +badly lighted room, with no adornment but a large green cross or some +picture of a saint hanging beside the master's table. The master was +often an old soldier in fantastic dress, with ill-tempered visage. The +scholar entered, walked the length of the room, knelt before the cross +or picture, recited a prayer, then tremblingly approached the master, +saying, "Your hand, Senor Maestro," when with a grunt the hand would be +extended to him to be kissed. Little was taught besides the reading of +the primer and the catechism. + +Ranch boys early learned to ride, each having his own horse and saddle. +Every year there was a rodeo, or "round-up," held in each neighborhood, +where cattle from all the surrounding ranches were driven to one point +for the purpose of counting the animals and branding the young. Each +stock owner had to be there with all the men from his ranch who could +ride, nor must he forget his branding irons. These brands were recorded +in the government book of the department, and any one changing the form +of his iron in any manner without the permission of the judge was guilty +of a crime. + +To the boys the rodeo was the most interesting time of the whole year. +The coming of the strange herds and vaqueros, the counting and the +separating of the animals, and the branding of the young stock made a +period of excitement and fun. Here was offered a chance for the display +of good horsemanship. Sometimes as the cattle were being gradually +herded into a circular mass, an unruly cow or bull would suddenly dart +from the drove and run away at full speed. A vaquero on horseback would +immediately dash after the animal, and, coming up with it, lean from the +saddle and seizing the runaway by the tail, spur his horse forward. Then +by a quick movement he would give a jerk and suddenly let go his hold, +when the animal would fall rolling over and over on the ground. By the +time it was up again it was tamed. Many a boy earned his first praise +for good riding at a rodeo. + +Nowhere in the world were there better and more graceful riders. Horses +used for pleasure were fine, spirited animals. The saddle and the bridle +were generally handsomely inlaid with silver or gold. A California +gentleman in fiesta costume, mounted on his favorite horse, was a +delight to the eyes. His hat, wide in the brim, high and pointed in the +crown, was made of soft gray wool and ornamented with gold or silver +lace and cord, sometimes embroidered with rubies and emeralds until it +was very heavy and exceedingly valuable. His white shirt was of thin, +embroidered muslin, and the white stock, too, was of thin stuff wrapped +several times around the neck, then tied gracefully in front. The jacket +was of cloth or velvet, in dark colors, blue, green, or black, with +buttons and lace trimmings of silver or gold, often of a very elaborate +design. About the waist was tied a wide sash of soft material and gay +color, the ends hanging down at the side. The breeches were of velvet +or heavy cloth, dark in color, save when the rider was gay in his taste, +then they might be of bright tints. They either ended at the knee, below +which were leggings of deerskin, or fitted the figure closely down to +just above the ankle, where they widened out and were slashed at the +outer seam, showing thin white drawers, which puffed prettily between +the slashes. A gentleman in Los Angeles still has the trimmings for such +suit, consisting of three hundred and fifty pieces of silver filigree +work. + +Every one seemed to live out of doors, and though the ranchos were +widely scattered, there was much visiting and social gayety. All who +could, traveled on horseback; while the mother of the family, the +children, and old people used the clumsy carreta with its squeaking +wheels. + +One of the prettiest sights was a wedding procession as it escorted +the bride from her home to the mission church. Horses were gayly +caparisoned, and the riders richly dressed. The nearest relative of the +bride carried her before him on the saddle, across which hung a loop +of gold or silver braid for her stirrup, in which rested her little +satin-shod foot. Her escort sat behind her on the bearskin saddle +blanket. Accompanying the party were musicians playing guitar and +violin, each managing horse and instrument with equal skill. + +The California woman generally wore a full skirt of silk, satin, wool, +or cotton, a loose waist of thin white goods, and, in cold weather, +a short bolero jacket of as rich material as could be obtained. A +bright-colored ribbon served for a sash, and a lace handkerchief or a +muslin scarf was folded over the shoulders and neck. In place of bonnet +and wrap a lace or silk shawl, or a narrow scarf called a rebosa, was +gracefully draped over the head and shoulders. + +Children were dressed like the older people, and very pretty were the +girls in their low-necked, short-sleeved camisas or waists, and full gay +skirts, their hair in straight braids hanging down over the shoulders. +The short breeches, pretty round jackets, and gay sashes were very +becoming to the boys. + +At night the daughters of the house, big and little, were locked into +their rooms by their mother, the father attending in the same manner +to the boys. In the morning the mother's first duty was to unlock these +doors. + +Various games were played. Blindman's buff was a great favorite for +moonlight nights. There was also a game called cuatrito, in which the +players threw bits of stone at a mark drawn on the ground at a certain +distance. + +"In my time," said a prominent Californian of to-day, "we used to play +this game with golden slugs instead of stones; there was always a basket +of slugs sitting door. We liked them because they carried well, and we +thought it nothing unusual to use them as playthings. They were abundant +in most of the houses; my mother and her friends used them as soap +dishes in, the bedrooms. + +"In the spare rooms was always a little pile of money covered by a +napkin, from which the visitor was expected to help himself if he +needed. We would have considered it disgraceful to count the guest +money." + +"Our parents were very strict with us," said another Californian, +"much more so than is the custom to-day. Sometimes while the parents, +brothers, and sisters were eating their meal, a child who was naughty +had for punishment to kneel in one corner of the dining room before +a high stool, on which was an earthen plate, a tin cup, and a wooden +spoon. It was worse than a flogging, a thousand times. As soon as the +father went out, the mother and sisters hastened to the sorrowful one +and comforted him with the best things from the table." + +The clothes were not laundered each week, but were saved up often for +several weeks or even a month or two, and then came a wash-day frolic. +Imagine wash day looked forward to as a delightful event! So it was, +however, to many California children. Senorita Vallejo, in the Century +Magazine (Vol. 41), thus describes one of these excursions:-- + +"It made us children happy to be waked before sunrise to prepare for +the 'wash-day expedition.' The night before, the Indians had soaped +the clumsy carreta's great wheels. Lunch was placed in baskets, and the +gentle oxen were yoked to the pole. We climbed in under the green cloth +of an old Mexican flag which was used as an awning, and the white-haired +Indian driver plodded beside with his long oxgoad. The great piles of +soiled linen were fastened on the backs of horses led by other servants, +while the girls and women who were to do the washing trooped along by +the side of the carreta. Our progress was slow, and it was generally +sunrise before we reached the spring. The steps of the carreta were +so low that we could climb in or out without stopping the oxen. The +watchful mother guided the whole party, seeing that none strayed too +far after flowers, or loitered too long. Sometimes we heard the howl +of coyotes and the noise of other wild animals, and then none of the +children were allowed to leave the carreta. + +"A great dark mountain rose behind the spring, and the broad, beautiful +valley, unfenced and dotted with browsing herds, sloped down to the bay +[of San Francisco]. We watched the women unload the linen and carry it +to the spring, where they put home-made soap on the clothes, dipped them +in the spring, and rubbed them on the smooth rocks until they were white +as snow. Then they were spread out to dry on the tops of the low bushes +growing on the warm, windless southern slopes of the mountain." After +a happy day in the woods came "the late return at twilight, when the +younger children were all asleep in the slow carreta and the Indians +were singing hymns as they drove the linen-laden horses down the dusky +ravines." + +As at the missions, soon the ranchos, little was raised for sale save +hides and tallow from the cattle. It was not the fault of the settlers +that, living in so fertile a country, they made so little use of its +productiveness. Spain's laws in regard to trade were made entirely +in the interests of the mother country, the settlers of New Spain, +especially of Alta California, having no encouragement to raise more +than they needed for use at home. They could not sell their produce to +ships from foreign countries, for the penalty for that was death to the +foreigner and severe punishment for the colonist. All trade had to be +carried on in Spanish vessels, and it was forbidden to ship olive +oil, wine, or anything that was raised or made in the home country. +As California and Spain were much alike in climate and soil, this law +really stopped all outside trade except that arising from cattle. + +After the territory became a Mexican province, the rules were not so +severe in regard to foreign trade, and finally the New England vessels +freely entered the ports by paying certain duties to the government. + +To the young people upon the ranchos the arrival of a trading vessel was +a great event. If the port was not far from the house, the Patrona and +the young ladies sometimes went on board to select for themselves +from the miscellaneous cargo the things they desired; but as they were +generally afraid of the water, especially of trusting themselves in the +ship's boats, the father and boys often represented the family on such +occasions. + +When news arrived that a ship was coming down the coast, elder sisters +became very kind and attentive to younger brothers, who accepted panocha +(a coarse brown sugar cast in square or scalloped cakes) and other gifts +contentedly, knowing well they would be expected to "coax Father" to +buy the ring, sash, necklace, or fan which the good sister particularly +desired. Often a ranchero would go down to the harbor with ten or +fifteen ox carts loaded with hides, skins, and tallow, and return with +ranch implements, furniture, dishes, sugar, other food, clothes, and +ornaments of all kinds. Such laughing, chattering, and excitement as +there was when the squeaking ox carts came into the courtyard! The whole +household, from the Patrona and her guests to the Indian mothers with +their children from the kitchen precincts, gathered to watch the slow +unloading of the purchases. Slow, indeed, seemed the process to the +eager children of the family. Except on horseback for a short dash, the +Californian never hurried. For a journey the usual gait was a little jog +trot, hardly faster than a walk. + +Senorita Vallejo, in the Century Magazine, describes the loading of a +ship's cargo: "The landing place for the mission of San Jose was at the +mouth of a salt water creek several miles away. When a trading vessel +entered San Francisco Bay, the large ship's boat would be sent up this +creek to collect the hides and tallow; but if the season was a wet one, +the roads would be too bad for the ox carts; then each separate hide was +doubled across the middle and placed on the head of an Indian. Sometimes +long files of Indians might be seen, each carrying hides in this manner, +as they trotted across the wide, flat plains or pushed their way through +the little forest of dried mustard stalks to the creek mouth." + +No such thing was known as a Californian breaking his word in regard to +a debt. Yankee ship owners trusted him freely. Once, when a ship was +in port, the captain left it for a little while in charge of the clerk +whose business it was to sell the goods, but who had never been in +California before and knew nothing of its customs. Down to the shore +came a ranchero attended by servants and ox carts. He came on board and +bought many things, intending to pay later with hides and tallow which +were not then ready. When he ordered the goods taken ashore with never +a word as to payment, the clerk informed him that he must either give +money or else give some writing saying that he would pay. + +Now this Californian, though rich in lands and stock, could neither read +nor write. When he understood that he was being distrusted, he gravely +drew from his beard a hair, and, handing it to the clerk, said: "Give +this to your master and tell him it is a hair from the beard of Agustin +Machado. You will find it sufficient guarantee." The clerk saw that he +had made a mistake, and, taking the hair, placed it in the leaves of +his note book and allowed the goods to be taken away. When the captain +returned, he was mortified that there had been any distrust shown. + +While California was a Spanish province its chief ruler was appointed by +the home government and was always an educated gentleman of good family, +generally an officer of the army. The coming of a new governor was a +great event in the colony and was celebrated with all possible ceremony +and display. + +In 1810 Mexico began its revolt against Spain. In California the people +were in sympathy with the mother country and had no doubt of her final +success. For a long time they received little news of how the war was +progressing. They only knew that no more money was sent up to pay +the soldiers or the expenses of government, that the padres no longer +received any income from the Pius Fund, that even the trading vessels +from Mexico upon which they depended for their supplies had ceased to +come. + +Times became so hard that the local government turned for aid to the +missions, which had become largely self-supporting. Many of them were +indeed wealthy communities, and the padres responded generously to the +demand for help. For several years they furnished food and clothing to +the soldiers, and money for the expenses of government, for the most of +which they never received payment. + +Gradually the fine clothes of the Californians wore out, no vessels +arrived from which they could purchase more, and again it was the +missions which came to the rescue. Their cotton and woolen goods were in +great demand. Indian spinners and weavers were busy from morning until +night making clothes for the "gente de razon," or "people of reason," +which was the term by which the white settlers were distinguished from +the natives. + +In 1822 a vessel came up from the south, bringing to the governor +official notice that the war had been decided in favor of Mexico, and +that California was therefore a Mexican province. This was disagreeable +news to the Californians, but after consultation held by the governor, +his officers, the padre who was the president of the missions, and some +of the leading citizens, it was decided that they were too far away from +Spain to be able to resist, and that they should take the oath to be +true to the Mexican government. For the padres, who were all Spaniards +and loyal to the home government, this was a hard thing to do, and they +never became reconciled to the change. + +From this time California was not so well governed. Mexico, which was +then an empire but soon became a republic, had its hands full looking +after its own affairs, and little attention was paid its far-off +province. Its best men were needed at home, and the governors sent up +the coast were not always wise or pleasing to the people. There were +several revolutions with but little bloodshed. One governor was sent +back to Mexico. At one time the Californians declared that theirs was +a free state, and a young man named Alvarado was made governor. General +Vallejo, who was his uncle, was given command of the army. But soon +the Californians quarreled bitterly among themselves, so that this +government did not last long and the territory went back under the rule +of Mexico. That government, in order to have peace in the province, +confirmed Alvarado and Vallejo in their positions. + +During the war between Mexico and Spain a South American pirate paid a +visit to the coast of Upper California. Monterey was attacked and partly +destroyed, also the mission of San Juan Capistrano and the rancho El +Refugio, the home of Captain Ortega, the discoverer of San Francisco +Bay. In the crew of the pirate ship was a young American named Chapman, +who had found life among his rough associates not so interesting as he +had hoped it would be, so he deserted, but was taken prisoner by +the Californians and imprisoned in a canyon near the present site of +Pasadena. Later he was brought down to Los Angeles and set at liberty. +He found the people of the pueblo planning to build a church on the +plaza, and he told them that if they would let him have some Indian +workmen he would get some large timbers down from the canyon. He +accomplished this successfully, and it was considered a wonderful work. +The stumps of the trees can yet be seen far up on the mountain side, and +the timbers are still in the plaza church. + +Visiting San Gabriel, young Chapman found the padres having trouble +to keep the flour which they ground in their new stone mill from being +dampened by water from the mill wheel. Knowing something of machinery, +the American remedied the defect by means of a flutter wheel, and there +was no more trouble. + +For years the catching of otters for their fur along the lagoons and +bays about San Francisco and Monterey brought considerable money to the +northern missions. Chapman, finding that the padres of San Gabriel were +anxious to engage in this trade, built for them the first sea-going boat +ever constructed in southern California. It was a schooner, the various +parts of which he made in the workshop of the mission. They were then +carried down to San Pedro, where he put them together and successfully +launched the vessel. + +Finally, to close his history, it is recorded of Mr. Chapman that he +fell in love with the pretty daughter of Captain Ortega, whose home +he had helped his pirate associates to attack, that he married her and +lived to a good old age. The country had few more useful citizens than +this capable man, the first American to settle in the southern part of +California. + +With the secularization of the missions in 1833-34 came a change in the +peaceful pastoral life. In each section all that was of interest had +from the first centered around its mission. One of the chief pleasures +of the early Californians was the feast day, "La Fiesta," which +celebrated a saint's birthday. During the year there were many of these +festivals. First there were religious exercises at the mission church; +then in the great square there followed dancing, games, and feasting, +in which all classes took some part. These happy church festivals ceased +with the breaking up of the mission settlements. Some of the Indians +disturbed the community by disorderly conduct, and the ill treatment and +suffering of the rest of these simple people caused sorrow and dismay +in the hearts of the better portion of the settlers. There was a wild +scramble for the lands, stock, and other wealth which had been gathered +by the missionaries and their Indian workmen. + +Many of the beautiful churches were sold to people who cared nothing for +the faith they represented. In some, cattle were stabled. The mission +bells were silent, and many of the mission settlements, once so busy and +prosperous, were solitary and in ruins. + +Life in the great ranchos still went on much as before, but it was no +longer so simple and joyous. A change had begun, and not many years +later, with the coming of the Americans at the time of the Mexican war, +the peaceful, happy life of Spanish California was brought to an end. + + + +Chapter VI + +The Footsteps of the Stranger + + + +At no point does the early history of California come in contact with +that of the colonies of the Eastern coast of the United States. The +nearest approach to such contact was in the year 1789, when Captain +Arguello, commander of the presidio of San Francisco, received the +following orders from the governor of the province:-- + +"Should there arrive at your port a ship named Columbia, which, they +say, belongs to General Washington of the American States, you will +take measures to secure the vessel with all the people aboard with +discretion, tact, cleverness, and caution." As the Columbia failed to +enter the Californian port, the Spanish commander had no chance to try +his wits and guns with those of the Yankee captain. + +It would seem as though the Californians lived for a time in fear of +their Eastern neighbors, since prayers were offered at some of the +missions that the people be preserved from "Los Americanos;" but after +the coming of the first two or three American ships, when trade began +to be established, there arose the kindliest feeling between the New +England traders and the Californians. The ship Otter, from Boston, which +came to the coast in 1796, was the first vessel from the United States +to anchor in a California port. + +La Perouse, in command of a French scientific expedition, was the +first foreigner of prominence to visit California. Of his visit, which +occurred in the fall of 1786, he writes in his journal: "The governor +put into the execution of his orders in regard to, us a graciousness and +air of interest that merits from us the liveliest acknowledgments, and +the padres were as kind to us as the officers. We were invited to dine +at the Mission San Carlos, two leagues from Monterey, were received upon +our arrival there like lords of a parish visiting their estates. The +president of the missions, clad in his robe, met us at the door of the +church, which was illuminated as for the grandest festival. We were led +to the foot of the altar and the Te Deum chanted in thanksgiving for the +happy issue of our voyage." + +La Perouse's account of the country, the people, and the missions is +of great value in giving us a picture of these times. In regard to the +Indians he said that he wished the padres might teach them, besides the +principles of the Christian religion, some facts about law and civil +government, "Although," said he, "I admit that their progress would be +very slow, the pains which it would be necessary to take very hard and +tiresome." + +Captain Vancouver, with two vessels of the British navy, bound on +an exploring voyage round the world, was the next stranger to visit, +California. So much did he enjoy the courtesy of the Spanish officers +that when his map of the coast came out it was found that he had honored +his hosts of San Francisco and Monterey by naming for them two leading +capes of the territory, one Point Arguello and the other Point Sal. + +As early as 1781 Russia had settlements in Sitka and adjacent islands, +for the benefit of its fur traders, and in 1805 the Czar sent a young +officer of his court to look into the condition of these trading posts. +Count Rezanof found the people suffering and saw that unless food was +brought to them promptly, they would die from starvation. San Francisco +was the nearest port, and though he knew that Spain did not allow trade +with foreign countries, the Russian determined to make the attempt to +get supplies there. Loading a vessel with goods which had been brought +out for the Indian trade of the north coast, he sailed southward. The +story of his visit is well told by Bret Harte in his beautiful poem, +"Concepcion de Arguello." + +Rezanof was warmly welcomed and generously entertained by Commander +Arguello of the presidio of San Francisco, but in vain did he try to +trade off his cargo for food for his starving people. The governor and +his officers dared not disobey the laws of Spain in regard to foreign +trade. While they were arguing and debating, however, something happened +which changed their views. The Count fell in love with the commander's +beautiful daughter, Concepcion. Then, as the poem has it,-- + +". . . points of gravest import yielded slowly one by one, And by Love +was consummated what Diplomacy begun." + +It seemed to the governor that the man who was to be son-in-law in the +powerful family of Arguello could not be considered as a foreigner, and +therefore the law need not apply in his case. Thus the Count got his +ship load of food and sailed away, promising to return as soon as +possible for his betrothed wife. One of the most interesting pictures of +early California is the poem which tells of this pathetic love story. + +Count Rezanof was so pleased with the beauty and fertility of California +that his letters interested the Czar, who decided to found a colony on +the coast. An exploring expedition was sent out, and the territory about +Russian River in Sonoma County was purchased of the Indians for three +blankets, three pairs of trousers, two axes, three hoes, and some beads. +Fort Ross was the main settlement, and was the home of the governor, +his officers and their families, all accomplished, intelligent men +and women. Besides the soldiers there were a number of mechanics and a +company of natives from the Aleutian Islands, who were employed by the +Russians to hunt the otter. Up and down the coast roamed these wild +sea hunters, even collecting their furry game in San Francisco Bay and +defying the comandante of the presidio, who had no boats with which +to pursue them, and so could do nothing but fume and write letters of +remonstrance to the governor of Fort Ross. Spain, and later Mexico, +looked with disfavor and suspicion upon the Russian settlement, but +the people of California were always ready for secret trade with their +northern neighbors. + +In 1816 Otto von Kotzebue, captain of the Russian ship Rurik, visited +San Francisco and was entertained by the comandante, Lieutenant +Luis Arguello. With Captain Kotzebue was the German poet, Albert von +Chamisso. + +The Russian captain, with brighter faith and keener insight than any +other of the early visitors to the coast, says of the country: "It +has hitherto been the fate of these regions to remain unnoticed; but +posterity will do them justice; towns and cities will flourish where +all is now desert; the waters over which scarcely a solitary boat is +yet seen to glide will reflect the flags of all nations; and a happy, +prosperous people receiving with thankfulness what prodigal nature +bestows for their use will dispense her treasures over every part of the +world." + +In the writings of Albert von Chamisso can be found a most interesting +description of his visit. To him is due the honor of giving to our +Californian poppy its botanical name. + +In 1841, the supply of otter having become exhausted, the Russians sold +their property and claims about Fort Ross to the Swiss emigrant, +the genial John Sutter. In 1903, through the agency of the Landmarks +Society, this property and its still well-preserved buildings came into +the possession of the state of California. + +As early as 1826 there were a number of foreigners settled in +California. These were mostly men from Great Britain or the United +States who had married California women and lived and often dressed like +their Spanish-speaking neighbors. Captain John Sutter, the Swiss who +bought out the Russians of Fort Ross, came to California in 1839. He +obtained from the Mexican government an extensive grant of land about +the present site of Sacramento, and here he erected the famous Sutter's +Fort where all newcomers, were made welcome and, if they desired, given +work under this kindest of masters. Around the fort, which was armed +with cannon bought from the Russians, he built a high stockade. He +gained the good will of the Indians and had their young men drilled +daily in military tactics by a German officer. + +Governor Alvarado, at the time of his revolution in 1837, had in his +forces, under a leader named Graham, a company of wandering Americans, +trappers and hunters of the roughest type. Although there was no real +war, and no fighting occurred, yet when Alvarado and his party were +successful, Graham and his men demanded large rewards, and because the +governor would not satisfy them they began to persecute him in every way +possible. Alvarado says: "I was insulted at every turn by the drunken +followers of Graham; when I walked in my garden they would climb on +the wall and call upon me in terms of the greatest familiarity, 'Ho, +Bautista, come here, I want to speak to you.' It was 'Bautista' here, +'Bautista' there." + +To express dissatisfaction they held meetings in which they talked +loudly about their country's getting possession of the land, until +Governor Alvarado, having good reason to believe that they were plotting +a revolution, expelled them from the territory and sent them to Mexico. + +The United States took up the defense of the exiles and insisted on +their being returned to California. It does not seem that the +better class of Americans who had been long residents of the country +sympathized with Graham and his followers, but from this time there were +less kindly relations between the Californians and the citizens of the +United States who came into the territory. + +We come now to the story of the conquest. + +At the beginning of the year 1845 the United States and Mexico were on +the verge of war over Texas, which had been formerly a Mexican province, +but through the influence of American settlers had rebelled, declaring +itself an independent state, and had applied for admission to the +American Union. Because the question of slavery was concerned in this +application, it caused intense excitement throughout the United +States. The South was determined to have the new territory come in as a +slave-holding state, while the men of the North opposed the annexation +of another acre of slave land. + +Eight Northern legislatures protested against its admission. Twelve +leading senators of the North declared that "it would result in the +dissolution of the United States and would justify it." On the other +hand, the South resolved that "it would be better to be out of the Union +with Texas than in it without her." The South won its point. Texas was +admitted, and at once a dispute with Mexico arose over the boundary +lines, and war at length followed, being brought on in a measure by the +entrance of United States troops into the disputed territory. During +the long discussion over Texas the United States was having trouble +with Great Britain over Oregon, which was then the whole country lying +between the Mexican province of California and the Russian possessions +on the north coast (now Alaska). Before the invention of steam cars and +the construction of railroads, the Pacific coast region had been thought +of little value. The popular idea was expressed by Webster when he said: +"What do we want of this vast, worthless area, this region of savages +and wild beasts, of deserts, of shifting sands and whirlwinds of dust, +of cactus and prairie dogs?" But now the United States was waking up, +and things looked different. Of Oregon the Americans were determined +to have at least a portion. California, so far away from Mexico and so +poorly governed, they would like to take under their protection,--at +least the region around the great Bay of San Francisco. + +As early as 1840 the United States government urged its consul at +Monterey, an American named Larkin, secretly to influence the leading +Californians to follow the example of Texas, secede from Mexico, and +join the United States, where he was to assure them they would receive a +brother's welcome. Just as he felt he might be successful his plans were +overthrown. + +One morning in 1842 there came sailing into Monterey Bay two American +men-of-war. Suddenly, to the consternation of those watching from the +shore, one of the ships was seen to fire upon an outgoing Mexican sloop. +After making it captive the three vessels proceeded to the anchorage. +Great was the excitement in Monterey. Neither the comandante nor the +American consul could imagine the reason for such strange conduct. It +was soon explained, however, by the arrival of a ship's boat bringing an +officer who delivered to the authorities a demand for the surrender +of the fort and place to the American commander of the Pacific fleet, +Commodore Jones, who was on board one of the newly arrived vessels. + +The Mexican officials and the officers of the army were astonished; so, +too, was the United States consul. They knew of no war between these +countries. Since he had neither men nor arms to resist this strange +demand, Alvarado, who was acting for the absent governor, gave orders +to surrender, and the next day the Mexican flag and forces gave place to +those of the United States. + +After the ceremony of taking possession, Commodore Jones had a talk +with the American consul, Mr. Larkin, and learned to his dismay that the +letters upon which he had acted and which indicated that war had been +declared were misleading, and from the latest news it was evident that +there was peace between the two countries. + +The commodore saw at once that he had made a serious mistake, "a breach +of the faith of nations," as it was called, which was liable to involve +the United States in grave difficulties. How best to undo his rash +action was now his thought. + +He apologized to the Mexican commander and gave back possession of the +fort. Next, he had the unhappy task of taking down the American flag and +replacing it with the cactus and eagle banner of Mexico, to which the +guns of his vessels gave a salute of honor. From Monterey he sailed +away to San Pedro. There he waited while he sent a messenger to Governor +Micheltorena, who was living in Los Angeles, asking permission to +call upon him and apologize in person. This request was granted, and +Commodore Jones and his staff came up to Los Angeles, where they were +the guests of their countryman, Don Abel Stearns, who, as he had been +working with Consul Larkin to win the Californians to the United States, +was most anxious to undo the mischief of the flag raising. For the +benefit of this history, Dona Arcadia Bandini, who was the beautiful +Spanish wife of Mr. Stearns, tells the story of the visit:-- + +"We gave a dinner to the governor, the commodore, and their attendants. +Everything was very friendly; they seemed to enjoy themselves, and the +uniforms of the two countries were very handsome. On the next day but +one the governor gave a ball. It was to be at his home, which was the +only two-story house in Los Angeles. To show the Americans how patriotic +the people of California were, the governor requested in the invitations +that all the ladies wear white with a scarf of the Mexican colors,--red, +green, and white. Of course we gladly complied, though some of us had to +work hard to get our costumes ready. + +"The day of the ball came, but with it came rain, such a storm as I +never had seen. As it drew toward evening the water came down faster and +faster. The governor had the only carriage in California, and this he +was to send for the commodore, Mr. Stearns, Isadora, and myself; but +the poor young officers had to walk, and their faces were long when they +looked out at the rain and then down at their fine uniforms and shining +boots. + +"Our California horses were not trained to pull loads and would not work +in the rain, so when the carriage came for us it was drawn by a number +of the governor's Cholo soldiers. We got in quite safely, and it was +only a short distance we had to go, but as I was getting out the wind +suddenly changed and down came a torrent of water on me. It was clear +that I could not go to the ball in that condition, but the governor +immediately ordered the soldiers to pull the carriage back to my home, +where I soon made another toilet. The ball was delightful. The governor +and the commodore vied with each other in exchanging compliments and +courtesies." + +It was a sad fact, however, that in spite of apologies, dinners, and +balls, Consul Larkin now found it difficult to persuade his California +neighbors that the United States looked upon them as brothers, and they +began to regard with suspicion the host of American emigrants who were +coming into the territory. + +In 1842 Lieutenant Fremont, under orders from the United States +government, made the first of his wonderful journeys over deserts and +rough mountain ranges into the great unknown West. Soon he was to become +famous, not only in his own country but in Europe, as the "Pathfinder," +the road maker of the West. Already many an Oregon emigrant had blessed +the name of Fremont for making plain the trail for himself and his loved +ones. + +In 1846 Captain Fremont, conducting an exploring and scientific +expedition, entered California with sixty men and encamped in the valley +of the San Joaquin. Later he moved down into the heart of the California +settlements and encamped on the Salinas River. Possibly, knowing that +war would soon be declared between his country and Mexico, he had +determined to see as much of the enemy's position as possible, not +caring particularly what the Mexican authorities might think. + +As a natural result, General Castro, commander of the California forces, +objected; Fremont defied him, and there seemed a likelihood of immediate +war. There was no actual fighting, however, and in a day or two Fremont +continued his journey toward Oregon. + +He had gone but a little way when he was overtaken by a captain of the +navy named Gillespie, bringing him letters from the officers of the +government at Washington. Upon reading these, Fremont immediately turned +about and marched swiftly back to Sutter's Fort, where he encamped. Just +what orders the messages from Washington contained, no one knows; but it +is thought that perhaps they informed Fremont that war would be declared +very soon and that the government would be pleased if he could quietly +get possession of California. + +If this was so, he had the best of reasons for his later actions. +If not, then in his eagerness to obtain for his country the valuable +territory he so well appreciated and in his desire to win for himself +the honor of gaining it, he brought on a war that caused the loss of +many lives and much property, and the growth of a feeling of bitterness +and distrust between Americans and Californians that has not yet +entirely passed away. Still it is by no means certain that California +could have been won without fighting, even had Fremont and the American +settlers been more patient. + +Soon many Americans were gathered about Fremont's camp; but though there +were a number of rumors as to what General Castro was going to do to +them, there was no action contrary to the previous kindly treatment all +had received from the hands of the Californians. Still the emigrants +felt that as soon as war was declared an army from Mexico might come up +which would not be so considerate of them and their families as had been +their California neighbors. + +Having good reason to feel certain that Fremont would stand back of them +if they began the fight, a company of Americans attacked one of Castro's +officers, who, with a few men, was taking a band of horses to Monterey. +Securing the horses, but letting the men who had them in charge get +away, they hurried them to Fremont's camp, where they left them while +they went on to Sonoma. Here they made prisoner General Vallejo, +commander of that department of the territory, together with his brother +and staff. + +General Vallejo was one of the leading Californians of the north, a man +of fine character, quiet and conservative, generous toward the needy +emigrants and favorable to annexation with the United States. When he +saw the rough character of the men surrounding his house that Sunday +morning, he was at first somewhat alarmed. A man named Semple, who was +one of the attacking party, describing the event in a Monterey paper +sometime afterward, says: "Most of us were dressed in leather hunting +shirts, many were very greasy, and all were heavily armed. We were about +as rough a looking set of men as one could well imagine." When they +assured the general that they were acting under orders from Fremont, he +seemed to feel no more anxiety, gave up his keys, and arranged for +the protection of the people of his settlement. He was first taken to +Fremont's headquarters, then for safe keeping was sent on to Sutter's +Fort. + +Meanwhile the party which had been left in charge of affairs at Sonoma +chose one of their number, a man named Ide, as their leader. Realizing +that they had begun a war, they felt the need of a flag, and not +daring to use that of the United States, they proceeded to make one for +themselves. For their emblem they chose the strongest and largest of the +animals of California, the grizzly bear. The flag was made of a Mexican +rebosa or scarf of unbleached muslin about a yard in width and five feet +long. To the bottom of this they sewed a strip of red flannel; in one +corner they outlined a five-pointed star, and facing it a grizzly bear. +These were filled in with red ink and under them in black letters +were the words "California Republic." The temporary government of +the followers of the Bear Flag is generally known as the "Bear Flag +Republic." + +As soon as it seemed probable that the Californians under General +Castro were marching to attack the Americans, Captain Fremont joined his +countrymen, and from that time the United States flag took the place of +the banner of the bear. A little later Captain Fremont took the presidio +and port of San Francisco, and to him is due the honor of naming +beautiful Golden Gate. + +About two weeks after the capture of Sonoma, Commodore Sloat, with +two vessels of the United States navy, entered the harbor of Monterey. +Although he had come for the purpose of taking the territory for his +country, and had orders to see to it that England did not get possession +of California ahead of him, yet he had been cautioned to deal kindly +with the Californians, and he hesitated to take decided steps. It took +him six days to make up his mind, and then he came to a decision +partly on account of the actions of Fremont and his men. Slowly up the +flagstaff on the fort of Monterey rose the Stars and Stripes. Unfolded +by the sea breeze, the beautiful flag of the United States waved again +over the land of the padres, and this time to stay. A few days later +Commodore Stockton reached California to take command in place of +Commodore Sloat, who returned home. Stockton appointed Fremont commander +of the American forces on land, and together they completed the conquest +of the territory. + +It was unfortunate that Commodore Stockton had so lately arrived from +the East that he did not fully understand the state of affairs. As he +believed the wild rumors which, falsely, accused the Californians of +treachery and cruelty, his proclamations were harsh and unjust to +the proud but kindly people whom he was conquering. Many of the late +historians find much to blame in the treatment given by the Americans +to the people of California. Severity was often used when kindness would +have had far better effect. + +Los Angeles and San Diego were taken by Stockton and Fremont without +any fighting, and leaving a few troops in the south, both commanders +returned to Monterey. They were soon recalled by the news that the +people of Los Angeles had risen against the harsh rule of Captain +Gillespie, who had been left in command; that the Americans had +surrendered but had been allowed to retire to San Pedro, and that all +the south was in a state of active rebellion. + +Landing at San Pedro, Stockton waited a few days, then fearing the +enemy was too strong for his forces, sailed away to San Diego. Here the +Americans received a hearty welcome, and much-needed assistance, from +the Spanish families of Bandini and Arguello. + +Mr. Bandini escorted a body of the United States troops to his home +rancho on the peninsula of Lower California, where he gave them cattle +and other food supplies. For this aid to the invaders he was forced to +remove his family from their home there, and on the journey up to San +Diego. Mrs. Bandini made what was probably the first American flag +ever constructed in California. As they neared San Diego the officer in +command discovered that he had neglected to take with him a flag. He did +not wish to enter the settlement without one, and when the matter was +explained to Mrs. Bandini, who was journeying in a carreta with her +maids and children, she offered to supply the need. + +From the handbag on her arm came needle, thimble, thread, and scissors, +and from the clothing of her little ones the necessary red, white, and +blue cloth. Under the direction of the young officer she soon had a +very fair-looking flag, and beneath its folds the party marched into +the town. That night the band of the flagship Congress serenaded Mrs. +Bandini in her San Diego home, and the next day Commodore Stockton +called to thank her in person. The flag, it is said, he sent to +Washington, where it is still to be found with other California +trophies. + +The most severe battle of the war in the state of California was fought +on the San Pasqual rancho in San Diego County. The forces engaged +were those of General Andres Pico, who commanded the Californians, and +General Stephen Kearny, who had marched overland, entered the territory +on the southwest, and was on his way to join Stockton. Hearing that the +country was conquered and the fighting over, the American officer had +sent back about two hundred of his men, but he was afterward reinforced +by Captain Gillespie and fifty men sent by Stockton to meet him. Several +American officers were killed in the battle of San Pasqual, and their +brave commander severely wounded. + +Commodore Stockton, on his march from San Diego to Los Angeles, twice +engaged the enemy, once at the crossing of the San Gabriel River and +once on the Laguna rancho just east of the city. The Californians +behaved with great bravery. All of them were poorly armed, many having +only lances and no fire-arms, and what powder they had was almost +worthless; yet three times they dashed upon the square of steadily +firing United States marines. + +This was the last battle in the territory. The Californians retreated +across the hills to the present site of Pasadena. Here, at the little +adobe house on the banks of the Arroyo Seco, they separated. General +Flores, their commander, was to ride with his staff through the stormy +night, down El Camino Real toward Mexico. General Andres Pico, upon whom +devolved the duty of surrender, was to ride with his associates to the +old Cahuenga ranch house, the first station on the highway from Los +Angeles to Santa Barbara. There he met Captain Fremont, and the treaty +was signed which closed hostilities. The terms proposed by Fremont were +favorable for the Californians and did much to make way for a peaceful +settlement of all difficulties. + + + +Chapter VII + +At the Touch of King Midas + + + +It was by chance that gold was discovered in both northern and southern +California, and by chance that many great fortunes were made. + +Juan Lopez, foreman of the little ranch of St. Francis in Los Angeles +County, one morning in March, 1842, while idly digging up a wild onion, +or brodecia, discovered what he thought lumps of gold clinging to its +roots. Taking samples of the metal, he rode down to Los Angeles to the +office of Don Abel Stearns, who recognized it as gold. + +Soon Juan and his companions were busy digging and washing the earth and +sands in the region where the little wild flowers grew. These mines +were called "placer," from a Spanish word meaning loose or moving about, +because the metal was loosely mixed with sand and gravel, generally in +the bed of a stream or in a ravine where there had once been a flow of +water which had brought the gold down from its home in the mountains. + +From these mines Don Abel Stearns sent, in a sailing vessel round Cape +Horn, the first parcel of California gold dust ever received at the +United States mint, and it proved to be of very good quality. + +The San Fernando mines, as they were called, because they were on a +ranch that had once belonged to San Fernando mission, yielded many +thousand dollars' worth of gold dust. It is on record that one firm in +Los Angeles, which handled most of the gold from these and other mines +of southern California, paid out in the course of twenty years over two +million dollars for southern gold. + +The true golden touch, however, was to come in a different part of the +territory among people of another race and tongue. It was to transform +California from an almost unknown land with slight and scattered +population to a community so rich as to disturb the money markets of +the world; a community sheltering a great host of people, all young, all +striving eagerly for the fortunes they had traveled thousands of miles +to find. + +After the signing of the treaty of Cahuenga between Colonel Fremont +and General Pico, the Spanish-speaking people settled down quietly and +peacefully. The only disagreements were between the American leaders, +General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and between Kearny and Fremont, +who had been appointed by Stockton military governor of the territory. +This appointment General Kearny disputed. General Vallejo tells in one +of his letters of having received on the same day communication from +Kearny, Stockton, and Fremont, each signing himself commander-in-chief. + +Whoever was right in the quarrel, Fremont was the chief sufferer, for +General Kearny, after Stockton left, ordered him to return East under +arrest and at Washington to undergo a military trial or court-martial +for mutiny and disobedience of orders. Although the court found him +guilty and sentenced him to be dismissed from the army, the President, +remembering his services in the exploration of the West, and quite +possibly thinking him not the person most to blame, pardoned and +restored him to his position. Fremont, feeling that he had done nothing +wrong, refused the pardon and resigned from the army. The next year the +new President, Taylor, showed his opinion of the matter by appointing +Fremont to conduct the important work of establishing the boundaries +between the United States and Mexico. + +General Kearny, when he departed for the East, left Colonel Mason, of +the regular army, as military governor of California. Mason chose as +his adjutant, or secretary, a young lieutenant named Sherman, who, years +later, in the Civil War, by his wonderful march through the heart of the +South, came to be considered one of the greatest generals of his time. + +Soon after the Mexican war many settlers were gathered about Sutter's +Fort and San Francisco Bay. There were about two thousand Americans, +most of them strong, hardy men, all overjoyed that the territory was in +the hands of the United States and all eager to know what would +finally be decided in regard to it. Reports kept arriving of parties of +emigrants that were about to start overland for California. + +"They are as certain to come as that the sun will rise to-morrow," said +genial Captain Sutter, "and as the overland trail ends at my rancho, I +must be ready to furnish them provisions. They are always hungry when +they get there, especially the tired little children, and the only thing +for me to do is to build a flour mill to grind my grain." + +"Well and good," said James Marshall, one of his assistants, an American +by birth, a millwright by trade; "but to build a flour mill requires +lumber, and lumber calls for a sawmill." + +"We will build it, too," said Sutter. "Take a man and provisions and go +up toward the mountains; there must be good places on my land. I leave +it all in your hands." The place was found on a swift mountain stream. +Near the present site of Coloma, in the midst of pine forests, on the +water soon to be so well known as the American River, the sawmill was +located. Marshall also marked out a rough wagon road forty-five miles +long down to the fort. Captain Sutter was delighted. + +"Set to work as soon as you like, Marshall," he exclaimed. "This is your +business." Soon the mill was built and almost ready for use. + +"You may let the water into the mill race to-night," said Marshall to +his men. "I want to test it and also to carry away some of the loose +dirt in the bed." + +Down came the water with a rush, carrying off before it the loose earth; +all night it ran, leaving the race with a clean, smooth bed. The next +day, Monday, January 24, 1848,--wonderful day for California--James +Marshall went out to look at the mill race to see if everything was +ready to begin work. + +"To-morrow," thought he, "we will commence sawing, and put things +through as fast as possible. The men are waiting, we have plenty of +trees down, there is nothing to hinder;" but at that moment as he walked +beside the bed of the tail race he saw some glittering yellow particles +among its sands. He stopped and picked one up. The golden touch had +come. + +The following is Marshall's own description as published in the Century +Magazine (Vol. 41). "It made my heart thump, for I was certain it was +gold. Yet it did not seem to be of the right color; all the gold coin I +had seen was of a reddish tinge; this looked more like brass. I recalled +to mind all the metals I had seen or heard of, but I could find none +that resembled this. Suddenly the idea flashed across my mind that it +might be iron pyrites. I trembled to think of it." + +Finally, to make sure, Marshall, like Juan Lopez, mounted his horse and +rode away to find some one with more knowledge than himself. That some +one was Captain Sutter, who looked in his encyclopedia, probably the +only one in the territory at that time, and by comparing the weight of +the metal with the weight of an equal bulk of water found its specific +gravity, which proved it to be gold. Still Sutter thought that he should +like better authority. General Sherman, in Memoirs, tells how the +news came to Monterey, where, he was the governor's gay young military +secretary:-- + +"I remember one day, in the spring of 1848, that two men, Americans, +came into the office and inquired for the Governor. I asked their +business, and one answered that they had just come down from Captain +Sutter on special business and they wanted to see Governor Mason in +person. I took them in to the colonel and left them together. After some +time the colonel came to his door and called to me. I went in and my +attention was directed to a series of papers unfolded on his table, in +which lay about half an ounce of placer gold. + +"Mason said tome, 'What is that?' I touched it and examined one or two +of the larger pieces and asked, 'Is it gold?' I said that if that were +gold it could be easily tested, first by its malleability and next by +acids. I took a piece in my teeth and the metallic lustre was perfect. I +then called to the clerk, Baden, to bring in an ax and hatchet from the +backyard. When these were brought, I took the largest piece and beat +it out flat, and beyond doubt it was metal and a pure metal. Still we +attached little importance to the fact, for gold was known to exist at +San Fernando at the south and yet was not considered of much value." + +About this time some of the business men who had settled in the little +town of Yerba Buena, finding that all ships that entered the harbor were +sent by their owners not to Yerba Buena, of which they knew nothing, but +to San Francisco, persuaded the town council to change the name of the +settlement from Yerba Buena to San Francisco, which was already the name +of the mission and presidio. + +"Gold! Gold!! Gold!!! from the American River," cried a horseman from +the mines, riding down Market Street, waving his hat in one hand, a +bottle of gold dust in the other. + +When words like these dropped from the lips of a messenger in any of the +little communities, the result was like a powerful explosion. Everybody +scattered, not wounded and dying, however, but full of life, ready to +endure anything, risk anything, for the sake of finding the precious +metal which enables its owner to have for himself and those he loves the +comfortable and beautiful things of the world. + +The result at San Francisco is thus described in one of its newspapers +of 1848: "Stores are closed, places of business vacated, a number of +houses tenantless, mechanical labor suspended or given up entirely, +nowhere the pleasant hum of industry salutes the ear as of late; but +as if a curse had arrested our onward course of enterprise, everything +wears a desolate, sombre look. All through the Sundays the little church +on the plaza is silent. All through the week the door of the alcalde's +office remains locked. As for the shipping, it is left at anchor; first +sailors, then officers departing for the mines." + +And how was it at the logging camp where Marshall made his great +discovery? The new sawmill, built with such high hopes, was soon silent +and deserted. No more logs were cut, and no lumber hauled down for the +flour mill. There were no men to be found who were willing to cut and +saw logs, build mills, or put in the spring wheat when they might be +finding their fortunes at the mines. + +The newly arrived emigrants suffered no doubt from hunger; maybe the +children cried for bread; but most of the men, as soon as they had +rested a little and knew what was going on, got together money enough +to buy the simple implements of knife, pan, pick, and cradle, which were +all the tools necessary for the easy placer mining of those days, and +joined the endless procession of those who were pushing up toward the +streams and canyons round Sutter's famous sawmill. + +As summer came on, the excitement became intense. Not only from the +region around San Francisco Bay, but from San Diego and Los Angeles, +people came flocking to the mines. Reports were current of men finding +hundreds of dollars' worth of gold a day, gaining a fortune in a few +weeks. It was almost impossible to hire laborers either in San Francisco +or on the ranches. Even the soldiers caught the gold fever and deserted. + +In the summer, Governor Mason and Lieutenant Sherman visited the mines. +Upon their return to Monterey, having seen for themselves that many even +of the wildest rumors were true, they made arrangements to send on to +Washington official announcement of the discovery. + +How this was accomplished is interesting. A lieutenant of the army was +appointed by the governor for the important office, and a can of sample +gold was purchased. + +The only vessel on the coast ready for departure was a boat bound +for Peru. On this ship the lieutenant with his pot of gold and the +governor's report embarked at Monterey. He reached the Peruvian port +just in time to catch the British steamer back to Panama. Crossing the +Isthmus on horseback, he took a steamer for Kingston, Jamaica. There he +found a vessel just leaving for New Orleans. Reaching that city he at +once telegraphed the news to Washington, trusting it would be in time to +form part of the President's message. + +On December 5, 1848, the President, in his message to Congress, after +speaking of the discovery of gold in California, said, "The accounts +of the abundance of gold in that territory are of such extraordinary +character as would scarcely command belief but for the authentic reports +of officers in the public service who have visited the mineral districts +and drew the facts which they detail from personal observation." + +The certainty that the wonderful reports of the gold country were true, +electrified not only the whole country but the whole civilized world. +Large numbers of people began immediate preparation for making the +overland journey as soon as the weather should permit; while others, too +impatient to wait, left for California by the way of the Isthmus. + +In February, 1849, there arrived at Monterey the Panama, the first +steamboat to visit the coast. The whole population turned out to see +and welcome it. The Californians as they compared it with the stately +frigates and ships they had been accustomed to see, exclaimed, "How +ugly!" Although it was not a beautiful vessel, its arrival was an event +of great importance, for it was the first of a line of steamers which +were under contract to ply monthly between San Francisco and Panama, and +with its coming began such an immigration as the world has seldom known. + +In 1849 nearly twenty-five thousand people came by land and almost as +many more by sea, from the States alone. There were between thirty and +forty thousand from other parts of the world. + +San Francisco at the time of the discovery had about seven hundred +inhabitants, and shortly after only the population of a hamlet, because +so many had gone to the gold fields. Now it suddenly found itself called +upon to give shelter to thousands of people bound for the mines, and +many also returning, some successful, others penniless and eager to get +work at the very high wages offered, sometimes as much as thirty dollars +a day. + +There were streets to be surveyed, houses and warehouses to be built, +lumber and brick to be provided. People were living in tents, in brush +houses, even in shelter made by four upright green poles over which were +spread matting and old bedding. Hundreds of ships lay helpless in the +harbor waiting for crews, often for men to unload the cargoes. No longer +could the papers complain of lack of business. The town was like a hive, +but such a disorderly one as would have driven wild any colony of bees. + +All was mud flats or water where are now the water front and some of +the leading business streets of the city. On these flats old unseaworthy +vessels were drawn up and did duty side by side with rough board +buildings as dwellings and stores. In the rainy seasons the streets were +lakes of mud where mules and drays were sometimes literally submerged. +The arrival of the mail steamer was the event of the month to this host +of people so far away from home and loved ones. Guns were fired, bells +rang to announce the approach of the vessel, then there was a wild rush +to the post office, where the long lines of men, most of them wearing +flannel shirts, wide hats, and high boots, extended far down the street. +Very high prices were sometimes paid, as high even as one hundred +dollars, by a late corner to buy from some one lucky enough to be near +the head of the line a position near the delivery window. Then if no +letter came, how great was the disappointment! + +One man thus described the mines:-- + +"I was but a lad and my party took me along only because I had a knack +at cooking and was willing to do anything in order to see the place +where such wonderful fortunes were made. It was a hot summer afternoon +when, crossing a region of low, thinly wooded hills, we looked down upon +American River; away to the east were high mountain ranges, their peaks, +although it was still August, snow-tipped. + +"From them came swiftly down the already famous river. Its volume was +evidently diminished from the heat, and along its gravelly bed men were +digging the sand and gravel into buckets. As I reached them and watched +them work I was greatly disappointed. It seemed like very ordinary dirt +they were handling; I saw no gleam of the yellow sands of which I had +heard such stories. I followed one of the men who carried the buckets +of earth to something that looked very like our family cradle with the +footboard knocked out. Where the slats might have been there was nailed +a piece of sheet iron punched full of holes. Above this was a chute in +which the dirt was emptied. The cradle was then rocked violently while +water was poured over its contents. The lighter earth and gravel were +carried away, while the gold, being heavier, rested either on the sheet +iron or between the slats on the cradle bottom. + +"Some of the men had no cradle, only a large pan made of sheet iron. +This pan, when half filled with dirt, was sunk in the water and shaken +sidewise until the dirt and gravel were washed away and only heavy +grains of gold remained. There were enough of these to make my eyes +open wide. The men who had the cradle were making pretty steadily from +eighteen to twenty dollars a day apiece. + +"After a day or two I visited the dry diggings. Here I saw things that +were more astonishing to me than anything that I had seen at the placer +mines. Some men were at work in a little canyon, and I sat on the +bowlder and watched them digging into the earth with their knives and +picking up every few minutes spoons of earth in which there were plainly +visible little lumps of gold the size of a pea. This was considered a +rich find; the men were joyful over their success. Suddenly one of the +older ones, looking up at me, sang out:-- + +"Say, Sonny, why do you sit there idle? Out with that bread knife of +yours and dig for your fortune. Across this ridge is another ravine. It +may be like this. Try your luck, anyway.' + +"Somehow, until that moment, it had not entered my boyish mind, that I +might join this great mad race for wealth. I sprang to my feet. My heart +began to pound faster than it did on the glorious day when in my boyhood +home I had won the mile race at the county fair. There was a singing +in my ears; for the minute I could scarcely breathe. I had heard of the +gold fever, and now I had caught it. + +"I dashed up the hillside, fairly rolled down into the rocky little +valley beyond, and began to dig wildly; but I found only good honest +earth, rich noble soil so like our fertile bottom lands at home. My +spirits began to sink, my heart to resume its natural beats. I worked +half an hour or so without finding any sign, as it was called, and +began to feel discouraged. In the canyon, which was very narrow, a large +bowlder blocked my progress. I determined to dig it loose. This was the +work of some time, but finally I succeeded in dislodging it, and drawing +up my legs out of its way watched with a youngster's delight its wild +dash down the mountain side to the stream far below. + +"Slowly I turned to resume my work, but what I saw brought me to my +feet with a yell. The socket where the stone had rested was dotted with +yellow lumps of gold as big as a pea, some even larger. Down I went upon +my knees and I fell to work with a will--the strength of a man seemed in +my arms. Off came my coat, and spreading it out I scooped the rich dirt +into it by the handful. I had happened on a pocket, as it was called; +a turn in the bed of some old mountain stream. The dirt from this when +washed yielded me about five hundred dollars, but it was all except +cook's wages that I ever made at the mines. + +"Before I left the gold fields I saw some small attempt at hydraulic +mining which later proved so successful. From a stream up in a canyon +some enterprising men had built a log flume and connected with it a +large hose and nozzle they had brought up from the coast. Turning +the water in this on a dry hill rich in gold deposit, they easily and +rapidly washed the dirt down into a sluice or trough below. This had +bars nailed across, and water running through carried the dirt away +while the gold dropped into the crevices between the bars." This method +of mining and also quartz mining, that is, digging gold and other metals +from rock, is described in another chapter. + +The gold-bearing earth extended along the west slope of the Sierra +Nevada and their base, from Feather River on the north to the Merced +River on the south, a territory about thirty miles wide by two hundred +and fifty long. In this district are still some of the richest mines in +the world. + + + +Chapter VIII + +The Great Stampede + + + +The rush of people to the Pacific coast after the gold discovery may +well be called a stampede. The terrible overland journey, over thousands +of miles of Indian country, across high mountains and wide stretches +of desert, was often undertaken with poor cattle, half the necessary +supplies of food, and but little knowledge of the route. On the other +hand, those who preferred going by water would embark in any vessel, +however unsafe, sailing from Atlantic ports to the Isthmus. + +In New York the excitement was especially great. Every old ship that +could be overhauled and by means of fresh paint made to look seaworthy +was gayly dressed in bunting and advertised to sail by the shortest and +safest route to California. The sea trip is thus described by an elderly +gentleman who made the journey when a boy of ten:-- + +"Together with the news of the discovery of gold came also reports of a +warm, sunny land which winter never visited, where life could be spent +in the open air,--a favorable spot where sickness was almost unknown. +It was, I think, as much on account of my mother's health as to make his +fortune that my father decided to go to California. The water route was +chosen as being easier for her. + +"The saying good-by to our relatives had been hard; but by the time we +were three miles from home we children ceased to grieve, so interested +were we in new sights and experiences. + +"I had never seen salt water until that morning in New York, when we +boarded the gayly trimmed brig, the Jane Dawson, which was to carry us +to the Isthmus. To my sister and myself it was a real grief that our +vessel had not a more romantic name. We decided to call it the Sea +Slipper, from a favorite story, and the Sea Slipper it has always been +to us. + +"On the deck there were so many unhappy partings that we became again +downhearted, a feeling which was intensified in the choppy seas of the +outer bay to the utter misery of mind and body. We got ourselves somehow +into our berths, where, with mother for company, we remained for many +hours. Finally the sea grew calmer and we were just beginning to enjoy +ourselves when off Cape Hatteras a severe storm broke upon us. The +vessel pitched and rolled; the baggage and boxes of freight tumbled +about, threatening the lives of those who were not kept to their berths +by illness. + +"Although I was not seasick I dared not go about much. One night, +however, growing tired of the misery around me, I crawled over to the +end of the farther cabin, which seemed to be deserted. Presently the +captain and my father came down the stairs and I heard the officer say +in a hoarse whisper. 'I will not deceive you, Mr. Hunt; the mainmast is +down, the steering gear useless, the crew is not up to its business, +and I fear we cannot weather the night!' I almost screamed aloud in my +fright, but just then a long, lanky figure rose from the floor where it +had been lying. It was one of the passengers, a typical Yankee. + +"'See here, captain,' he said, 'my chum and I are ship carpenters, +and the other man of our party is one of the best sailors of the +Newfoundland fleet; just give us a chance to help you, and maybe we +needn't founder yet awhile.' The chance was given, and we did not +founder. + +"Some days later we anchored in the harbor of Chagres. There were many +vessels in the bay, and a large number of people waiting to secure +passage across the Isthmus. They crowded around the landing place of the +river canoes and fought and shouted until we children were frightened +at the uproar, and taking our hands mother retired to the shade of some +trees to wait. + +"It was almost night when father called to us to come quickly, as he had +a boat engaged for us. It lay at the landing, a long canoe, in one end +of which our things were already stored. Some men who were friends of +father's and had joined our party stood beside it with revolvers in +hand watching to see that no one claimed the canoe or coaxed the boatmen +away. Mother and Sue were quickly tucked beneath the awning, the rest +of us tumbled in where we could, and at once our six nearly naked negro +boatmen pushed out the boat and began working it up the stream by means +of long poles which they placed on the bottom of the river bed, thus +propelling us along briskly but with what seemed to me great exertion. + +"To us children the voyage was most interesting. On either side the +banks were covered with such immense trees as we had never dreamed of. +The ferns were more like trees than plants, and the colors of leaves +and flowers so gorgeous they were dazzling. The fruits were many and +delicious, but our father was very careful about our eating, and would +not allow us to indulge as we desired. + +"The night came on as suddenly as though a great bowl had been turned +over us. For an hour or more we watched with delight the brilliant +fireflies illuminating all the atmosphere except at the end of the boat, +where the red light of a torch lit the scene. After we had lain down for +the night the moon rose and I could not enough admire the beauty of the +tropical foliage, with the silvery moonlight incrusting every branch and +leaf. + +"The second day we left the boats and took mules for the rest of the +journey. To my delight I was allowed an animal all to myself. Sue rode +in a chair strapped to the back of a native, and our luggage was taken +in the same manner, the porters carrying such heavy loads that it did +not seem possible they could make the journey. + +"To my sister and me, the city of Panama was amazingly beautiful, with +its pearl oyster shells glittering on steeple and bell tower, and the +dress of the people as magnificent as the costumes described in the +'Arabian Nights.' In Panama we waited a long time for a steamer. The +town was crowded and many people were ill. My mother was constantly +helping some one until my father forbade her to visit any stranger, +because cholera had broken out and many were dying. + +"It was a joyful morning when we boarded the steamer California, steamed +out on the blue Pacific, and headed northward. We had more comfortable +quarters and better food than when on the Atlantic; but never on the +steamer did we feel the sense of grandeur and power that came to us on +the brig when, with white sails all set, she rushed like a bird before +the wind. + +"Toward the close of the voyage there was so much fog that our captain +did not know just whereabouts we were, and for that reason kept well out +to sea. One morning there came a rap at the stateroom door, and a loud +voice cried, 'Wake up, we shall be in San Francisco in less than an +hour.' What a time of bustle followed! The sea was rough. Sue and I +fell over each other and the valises in our eagerness to get dressed. I, +being a boy, was out first. The sun was shining as though it was making +up for the days it was hidden from us. The water was blue and sparkling, +the air warm and delightful after the cold, foggy weather. + +"We were steaming due east, and almost before I knew it we had passed +through Golden Gate and were in the quiet water of the bay. By the time +mother and Sue were on deck, we were nearing the wharf. I thought then +that San Francisco was rather disappointing in its looks, with its +unpainted houses of all kinds of architecture, and the streets like +washouts in the hills, but soon I learned to love it with a faithfulness +which was felt by many of the pioneers and will end only with life." + +Such were some of the hardships and discomforts endured by those +who traveled to California by water during the period of the gold +excitement. Yet those who made the journey by land often suffered even +more. + +The first immigrant train to California started in 1841. + +It brought among its members a young man named Bidwell, afterward United +States representative from California. Describing this journey in the +Century Magazine (Vol. 41), Mr. Bidwell says:-- + +"The party consisted of sixty-nine persons. Each one furnished his own +supplies of not less than a barrel of flour, sugar, and other rations in +proportion. I doubt whether there was a hundred dollars in money in the +whole party, but all were anxious to go. + +"Our ignorance of the route was complete. We knew that California lay +west, and that was all. Some of the maps consulted and supposed to be +correct showed a lake in the vicinity of where we now know Salt Lake to +be, that was three or four hundred miles in length, with two outlets, +both running into the Pacific Ocean, either apparently larger than the +Mississippi River. We were advised to take along tools to make canoes, +so that if we found the country too rough for our wagons, we could +descend one of these rivers to the Pacific." It was two years later that +Fremont, the pathfinder and roadmaker of the West, surveyed the great +Salt Lake and made a map of it. The Bidwell party after many hardships +reached California in safety. + +The unhappy Donner party, also home seekers, made the journey in 1848. +They lost their way and became snow-bound in the mountains. A number of +them died from cold and starvation, but the remainder were rescued by +relief parties sent out from Sutter's Fort. Their sufferings were +too terrible to be told, and yet they started with fair hopes and as +excellent an outfit as any party that ever crossed the plains. The +following is from an account of the journey written by one of their +number for the Century Magazine (Vol. 42):-- + +"I was a child," says Virginia Reed Murphy, "when we started for +California, yet I remember the journey well. Our wagons were all made to +order, and I can say truthfully that nothing like the Reed family wagon +ever started across the plains. The entrance was on the side, and one +stepped into a small space like a room, in the center of the wagon. On +the right and left were comfortable spring seats, and here was also a +little stove whose pipe, which ran through the top of the wagon, was +prevented by a circle of tin from setting fire to the canvas. A board +about a foot wide extended over the wheels on either side, the full +length of the wagon, thus forming the foundation of a large roomy +second story on which were placed our beds; under the spring seats were +compartments where we stored the many things useful for such a journey. +Besides this we had two wagons with provisions. + +"The family wagon was drawn by four yoke of choice oxen, the others by +three yoke. Then we had saddle horses and cows, and last of all my pony. +He was a beauty, and his name was Billy. The chief pleasure to which I +looked forward in crossing the plains was to ride on my pony every day. +But a day came when I had no pony to ride, for the poor little fellow +gave out. He could not endure the hardships of ceaseless travel. When I +was forced to part with him, I cried as I sat in the back of the wagon +watching him become smaller and smaller as we drove on until I could not +see him any more. But this grief did not come to me until I had enjoyed +many happy weeks with my pet. + +"Never can I forget the morning when we bade farewell to our kindred and +friends. My father, with tears in his eyes, tried to smile as one +friend after another grasped his hand in a last farewell. My mother +was overcome with grief. At last we were all in the wagon, the drivers +cracked their whips, the oxen moved slowly forward, the long journey had +begun. + +"The first Indians we met were the Caws, who kept the ferry and had to +take us over the Caw River. I watched them closely, hardly daring to +draw my breath, feeling sure that they would sink the boat in the middle +of the stream, and very thankful I was when I found that they were not +like the Indians in grandmamma's stories. + +"When we reached the Blue River, Kansas, the water was so high that +the men made rafts of logs twenty-five feet in length, united by cross +timbers. Ropes were attached to both ends and by these the rafts +were pulled back and forth. The banks of the stream being steep, our +heavy-laden wagons had to be let down carefully with ropes so that the +wheels might run into the hollow between the logs. This was a dangerous +task, for in the wagons were the women and children, who could cross the +rapid stream in no other way. + +"After striking the great valley of the Platte the road was good, the +country beautiful. Stretching out before us as far as the eye could +reach was a valley as green as emerald, dotted here and there with +flowers of every imaginable color. Here flowed the grand old Platte--a +wide, shallow stream. This part of our journey was an ideal pleasure +trip. How I enjoyed riding my pony, galloping over the plain gathering +wild flowers! At night the young folks would gather about the camp +fire chattering merrily, and often a song would be heard or some clever +dancer would give us a jig on the hind door of a wagon. + +"In the evening, when we rode into camp, our wagons were placed so as +to form a circle or corral, into which, after they had been allowed to +graze, the cattle were driven to prevent the Indians from stealing them. +The camp fire and the tents were placed on the outside of this square. +There were many expert riflemen in the party, and we never lacked game. +I witnessed many a buffalo hunt and more than once was in the chase +close behind my father. For weeks buffalo and antelope steaks were the +main article on our bill of fare, and our appetites were a marvel." The +Reed family was the only one belonging to the Donner party, it is said, +who made the terrible journey without losing a member. + +To the young people and men there was often much pleasure in crossing +the continent in a prairie schooner, as the white-covered emigrant wagon +was called; but to the women it was another matter, since they had to +ride constantly in a wagon, attend to the little children, and do the +cooking, often under great difficulties. Many of them learned to be +experts in camp cooking, requiring nothing more than a little hollow +in the hard ground for a range; or if there were plenty of stones, the +cooking place might be built up a little. Over this simple contrivance, +with the aid of a couple of iron crossbars, a kettle, a frying pan, and +coffee pot, many a delicious meal was easily and quickly prepared. + +Mrs. Hecox, in the Overland Monthly, says: "I am sure the men never +realized how hard a time the women had. Of course the men worked hard +too, but after their day's travel was over they sat around the camp +fire, smoked, and told stories, while the women were tending the +children, mending clothes, and making ready for the next day's meals. + +"After we crossed the Mississippi, it commenced raining, and for days we +splashed through the mud and slush. When we camped at night, we had +to wade about and make some kind of shelter for our fires, and I was +obliged to keep the children cooped up in the wagons. Here let me say +that I never heard an unkind word spoken among the women all the way +across the plain. The children were good, too, and never out of humor +either, unless some cross man scolded them. + +"At one place a drove of buffalo ran into our train and gave us a bad +scare. I was in the wagon behind ours attending a sick woman when I +saw the drove coming. I knew the children would be frightened to death +without me, so I jumped from the wagon and ran, but I was too late. +Finding that I had no time to get into the wagon, I crawled under it, +where a wounded buffalo cow tried to follow me. I kicked her in the head +as I clung to the coupling pole, and somehow broke my collar bone." + +As soon as the grass began to get green in the spring of 1849, after +the news of the discovery of gold reached the States, the overland march +began. In white-covered emigrant wagons, in carts, on horses, mules, +even on foot, came the eager gold seekers. How poorly prepared were +many of them, it would be hard to believe. They were a brave and hardy +company of people, but they suffered much. It is estimated that at least +eight or ten thousand of the young, strong men died before the year was +over. Many of these deaths were due to overwork and exposure, to the +lack of the necessaries of life at the mines, also to the fact that +a great many of the gold seekers were clever, educated people, quite +unused to extreme poverty, and therefore lacking in the strength that +comes from self-denial. + +Those who remained formed the best material for the making of the state. +To this class belonged those who endowed the two great universities +which are now the glory of California. For many years the highest +position in public life was held by men who came to the Golden State +over the plains or by the uncomfortable ocean route in the days of '49. + + + +Chapter IX + +The Birth of the Golden Baby + + + +The birth of the Golden Baby, in other words, the coming of the Golden +State into the Union, was a time of struggle and uncertainty, +when feelings were deeply stirred and hope deferred caused bitter +disappointment. When the treaty of peace with Mexico was ratified by +Congress it left the Pacific coast settlements in a strange position--a +territory containing thousands of people, with more coming by hundreds, +but with no legally appointed rulers. + +As soon as Congress accepted the treaty, the military governor ceased to +have any power, for there was then no longer a state of war; yet he was +still obeyed by courtesy, until some one with a better right took his +place. The only other official was the local alcalde of each community. +This was a Mexican office, but was at that time often filled by an +American who had, perhaps, been in the territory only a few months and +knew nothing of Mexican laws, but ran things as well as he could after +the Eastern fashion. + +The Rev. Mr. Colton, chaplain of the warship Congress, was made alcalde +of Monterey, and his book on those times is most interesting. + +"My duties," said he, "are similar to those of the mayor of an Eastern +city, but with no such aid of courts as he enjoys. I am supreme in every +breach of peace, case of crime, disputed land title, over a space of +three hundred miles. Such an absolute disposal of questions affecting +property and personal liberty never ought to be confided to one man." + +The country owed much to Mr. Colton's work while alcalde. He soon gained +the confidence of law-abiding residents, but was a terror to evil doers. +Those he put to work quarrying stone and building the solid structure +afterward named Colton's Hall. Here one of the first of California's +schools was opened, and here was held the first convention. + +Perhaps the truth that "as a man sows, so shall he reap," that a wrong +action is apt to bring its own punishment, was never more plainly shown +than in the Mexican war. The war was brought upon the United States in +a great degree by those interested in slavery, not because they had any +just cause of quarrel with the people of Mexico, but because they wanted +more territory where slaves could be held. + +California, which was the name generally given to all the country +extending from Mexico northward to Oregon and the Louisiana Purchase, +and eastward from the Pacific Ocean to Texas, was what they really +fought for, and when they got it, it became their undoing. When a +commissioner went to Mexico to arrange for peace, he demanded California +for the United States. As is usual, the conquered had to yield to the +victor, and Mexico agreed, "provided the United States would promise not +to permit slavery in the territory thus acquired." + +"No," replied Mr. Trist, the American commissioner, "the bare mention +of such a thing is an impossibility. No American president would dare +present such a treaty to the Senate." + +The Mexican authorities persisted, saying the prospect of the +introduction of slavery into a territory gained from them excited the +strongest feelings of abhorrence in the hearts of the Mexican people, +but the American commissioner made no promise. + +In the summer of 1848 the President, in a special message, called +the attention of Congress to California and asked that the laws of a +territory be granted to it. The South agreed, provided half should +be slave territory. The Northern people, who disliked slavery, had +no commercial interest in it, and felt it a disgrace to the nation, +resisted this demand. Then began a bitter struggle over California and +the question of slavery on her soil, which lasted for two years and +called forth some of the grandest speeches of those mighty leaders, +Webster, Clay, and Calhoun. + +In 1849, while this fight in Congress was still going on, an amendment +to tax California for revenue, and another which would result in making +her a slave state, were added to the regular appropriation bill which +provided for the expenses of government and without which the government +would stop. Congress was supposed to close its session on Saturday, +March 3d, at midnight. The new President, Taylor, was to take office on +Monday. + +There had been many times of excitement in that Senate chamber, but this +night, it is said by those who were present, was equal to any. Such a +war of words and a battle of great minds! Many eyes were turned to the +clock as it drew near the hour of midnight. Would the stroke of twelve +dissolve the meeting and the great government of the United States be +left without funds? + +To many of the senators this seemed a certainty, but Mr. Webster +insisted that Congress could not end while they remained in session. +So, through the long night, the struggle went on. About four o'clock +the amendment in regard to slavery was withdrawn, and the bill for the +government money was passed. + +Meantime the American settlers in California were extremely +dissatisfied. To be living without suitable laws was an unnatural and +dangerous state of affairs which could not be tolerated by men who loved +their country and their homes. The Spanish Californians, also, were +anxious to know what they had to expect from the laws of the United +States. At last it was decided by the people, and agreed to by the +military governor, Riley, who was a man of good judgment, that +delegates should be chosen to a convention which should arrange a state +constitution and government. It was determined, however, to wait for +word from Congress, which had closed in such tumult. + +News would certainly arrive by the next steamer, the Panama, which was +long overdue. It was a favorite amusement in those days for the boys of +San Francisco to go upon the hill and watch for her coming. The 4th of +June they were rewarded by the sight of her. As she came into harbor a +large part of the population hurried to the wharf, eager to learn the +action of Congress. Was California to be a state or not? + +The disappointment was great when it was found that nothing had been +done except to pass the revenue laws, which meant taxation without +representation. In the plaza and on the streets the crowds were loud in +their disapproval. The excitement was almost as great as in Boston, so +long before, when the news of the tax on tea arrived. A mass meeting was +called. + +"It is plain they expect us to settle the slavery question for +ourselves," said one. "We can do it in short order," said another. + +Monday, September 3, 1849, the constitutional convention met at +Monterey. + +"Recognizing the fact that there is need of more than human wisdom, in +the work of founding a state under the unprecedented condition of the +country," says the minutes of that meeting, "the delegates voted to open +the session with prayer." It was decided to begin each morning's work +in this way, the Rev. S. H. Willey and Padre Ramirez officiating +alternately. + +There were present forty-eight delegates, seven of whom were Spanish +Californians. Of these Carrillo of the south and General Vallejo of +Sonoma were prominent. They were able men, who were used to governing +and who understood fairly well the needs of the times. Later, in the +United States Senate, Mr. Webster quoted Mr. Carrillo of "San Angeles," +as he called it. Another delegate, Dr. Gwin, was a Southern man who had +recently come to California for the purpose of gaining the position of +United States senator and of so planning things that even though the +state should be admitted as free soil, it might later be divided and +part be made slave territory. + +He depended for this upon the boundaries. If the whole great section was +admitted as California, he thought division would surely follow with +the southern part for slavery. The people, however, showed themselves +opposed to slavery in their new state, and Dr. Gwin soon found that he +must either forego his hopes of becoming senator or give way on this +point. The constitution finally adopted was that of a free state with +its boundaries as they are to-day. The new legislature chose Colonel +Fremont and Dr. Gwin senators, and they left in January, 1850, for +Washington, taking the new constitution to offer it for the approval of +Congress. + +While the people of the Pacific coast had been making their +constitution, Congress was in session, and the subject of California and +slavery was still troubling the nation. The discussion grew so bitter +that in January Clay brought forward his famous Omnibus Bill, so called +because it was intended to accommodate different people and parties, and +contained many measures which he thought would be so satisfactory to +the senators that they would pass the whole bill, although part of it +provided for the admission of California as a free state. + +At once Southerners sprang forward to resist the measure. They realized +keenly that slavery could not hold its own if the majority of the +country became free soil. They must persist in their demand for more +slave territory, or give up their bondmen. Calhoun, the great advocate +of slavery, who was at that time ill and near his death, prepared a +speech, the last utterance of that brilliant mind, which was delivered +March 4th. He was too ill to read it, but sat, gaunt and haggard, +with burning eyes, while his friend spoke for him. It closed with the +declaration that the admission of California as a slave or a free state +was the test which would prove whether the Union should continue to +exist or be broken up by secession. If she came in free, then the South +could do no less than secede. + +Three days later, March 7th, Webster delivered one of the great speeches +of his life. In it he said, "The law of nature, physical geography, and +the formation of the earth settles forever that slavery cannot exist in +California." + +Seward followed with a speech mighty in its eloquence. He said: +"California, rich and populous, is here asking admission to the Union +and finds us debating the dissolution of the Union itself. It seems to +me that the perpetual unity of the empire hangs on this day and hour. +Try not the temper and fidelity of California, nor will she abide +delay. I shall vote for the admission of California directly, without +conditions, without qualifications, and without compromise." + +On September 9, 1850, California was at last admitted. + +From that time the country advanced steadily onward to the terrible +period of 1861, when the South put her threat into execution. The Civil +War followed, and the abolition of slavery; but from the sorrowful +struggle there arose a better and happier nation, a united North +and South. There are two things to be remembered: that into the new +territory gained from Mexico slavery never entered; and that the wealth +which came from the mines of California did much toward strengthening +the North in the conflict. + +Over half a year the Californians had been waiting for their +constitution to be adopted, and for their representatives to be received +in Congress. Sometimes it seemed as though the good news would never +come. + +One October morning word came down from the lookout on Telegraph +Hill: "The Oregon is coming in covered with bunting. All her flags are +flying." Almost at the same moment throughout the city could be heard +the quick booming of her guns as she entered the harbor. With shouts +and clapping of hands the people rushed to the wharf. Tears were pouring +down the faces of men who did not know what it was to cry; women were +sobbing and laughing by turns. The shrill cheers of the California +boys rose high above all. There was the report of guns, the cracking of +pistols, the joyful pealing of bells. New York papers sold readily at +five dollars each. No more business that day. Joy and gayety reigned. At +night the city was ablaze with fireworks and mighty bonfires, which the +boys kept going until morning. + +Messengers started in every direction to carry the news. The way the +word came to San Jose was exciting. The new governor, Peter Burnett, was +in San Francisco on steamer day. On the very next morning he left for +San Jose on the stage coach of Crandall, one of the famous drivers of +the West. The stage of a rival line left at the same time. There was +great excitement: a race between two six-horse teams, with coaches +decorated with flags, and the governor on the box of one of them. + +They had to creep through the heavy sands to the mission, but beyond +there they struck the hard road, and away they went, horses at a gallop, +passengers shouting and singing. As they passed through a town or by a +ranch house people ran out, aroused by the hubbub. Off went the hats of +all on the coaches. + +"California has been admitted to the Union!" some one would shout in his +loudest voice, and, looking back, they would see men shaking hands and +tossing hats on high, and small boys jigging while shouts and cheers +followed them faintly as they disappeared in the distance. + +Past San Bruno, San Mateo, Mayfield, they went with a rush, then swept +through Santa Clara, then at a gallop down the beautiful Alameda to San +Jose, the governor's coach but three minutes in advance of its rival. + +A few days later there was the grand ceremony of admission day, which +was described in the papers not only of this country but of England as +well. + +Still, after the rejoicing came a time of anxiety and sorrow. In its +treatment of the land question in California the United States made one +of the gravest mistakes ever made by a civilized nation. + +The man whom the government sent out to investigate the subject, W. C. +Jones, was an able Spanish scholar, skilled in Mexican and Spanish law, +and his carefully prepared report declared that the greater part of the +rancheros had perfect title to their lands, and all that was necessary +for the United States to do was to have them resurveyed. + +In Congress, Senator Benton and Senator Fremont in most points supported +this report as the only just plan. Against the bill that was finally +passed Senator Benton protested vigorously, saying that it amounted +to confiscation of the land instead of the protection promised by the +American government, through Larkin and Sloat. + +This law made it necessary for every Californian, no matter how long he +had lived on his land, to prove his title to it, and that, too, while +the United States attorney resisted his claim inch by inch, as if he +were a criminal. + +Thus the Spanish American, who was seldom a man of business after +the standard of the Eastern states, was forced into the distressing +necessity of fighting for what was his own, in courts, the law and +language of which he did not understand. Meantime his property was +rendered hard to sell, while taxation fell heaviest upon him because he +was a large land owner. Often, too, he would have to pay his lawyer in +notes, promising to give money when he could get it, and in the end the +lawyer often got most of the land which the United States government had +left to the unhappy Californian. + +The way in which unprincipled men got the better of the rancheros would +fill a volume. Guadalupe Vallejo, in the Century Magazine (Vol. 41), +tells how a leading American squatter came to her father and said:-- + +"There is a large piece of your land where the cattle run loose, and +your vaqueros are all gone to the mines. I will fence the field at my +own expense if you will give me half of it." Vallejo agreed, but when +the American had inclosed it, he entered it on the record books as +government land and kept it all. + +This article also describes the losses of the ranchmen from cattle +stealing. It tells how Americans, who were afterward prosperous +citizens, were guilty of selling Spanish beef which they knew had been +stolen. + +The life of the Spanish-speaking people at the mines was made miserable. +The American miners seemed to feel that the Californian had no right +to be there. Of course there were some of the lower class, many of whom +were part Indian, who would lie, steal, or, if they had an opportunity, +murder; but often those who were persecuted were not of this type. +A woman of refinement, who under the title of "Shirley" wrote her +experiences at the mines, says:-- + +"The people of the Spanish race on Indian Bar, many of whom are highly +educated gentlemen, are disposed to bear an ill opinion of our whole +nation on account of the rough men here. They think that it is a +great characteristic of Columbia's children to be prejudiced, selfish, +avaricious, and unjust." + +Because in a quarrel a Mexican killed a drunken miner, the men of the +Bar determined to drive away all Californians. They captured several, +not the guilty one, banished some, and two they sentenced to be flogged. +Shirley from her cabin heard what was going on. She tells how one of +them, a gentlemanly young Spaniard, begged in vain to be killed rather +than be disgraced by whipping. When, finally, he was released, he swore +eternal vengeance against the American race. + +In San Francisco the disorderly state of affairs caused by the host +of criminals gathered there from all over the world, attracted by the +discovery of gold, became unendurable. On the city streets robbery and +murder were of frequent occurrence, no one was safe, and wrongdoers went +unpunished because, frequently, the officers of the law were in league +with them. At last the best citizens felt that for the sake of their +homes and families they must take matters into their own hands, so they +formed an association, seven thousand strong, which was known as the +"Vigilantes." + +Those who committed crimes were taken by this organization, and, after +careful trial, punished. Several of the worst offenders were executed, +many were banished from the country, and unjust officials were removed. +When law and order were restored, the Vigilantes disbanded. + +The example of San Francisco was followed in various parts of the state, +especially in the mining camps, where there were many crimes; but not +all the Vigilantes displayed the same care and fairness as the people of +the larger city, and sometimes terrible mistakes were made, and innocent +people suffered. + +With thousands of newcomers on the Pacific coast, and the long distance +between them and their homes, it was often of the greatest importance +to get their parcels and mail to them as promptly as possible. For this +reason several express companies were started and did excellent work; +but the mail route called the Pony Express was the most interesting. It +is well described by W. F. Bailey in the Century Magazine (Vol. 56). + +One day in March, 1860, the following advertisement appeared in a St. +Louis paper:-- + +"To San Francisco in eight days. The first carrier of the Pony Express +will leave the Missouri River on Tuesday, April 3d, and will run +regularly weekly hereafter, carrying letter mail only. Telegraph mail +eight days, letters ten days to San Francisco." + +From St. Joseph, Missouri, the first start was made. A large crowd was +present to see the rider off. The same day, the same hour, the Western +mail started on the thousand-mile ride eastward. There would be ten +riders each way, with horses changed every twenty-five miles. + +Both Sacramento and San Francisco were full of enthusiasm. It was +planned to give the first messenger a rousing reception when he should +arrive from the East. He was received by crowds as he galloped into +Sacramento, and hurried to a swift river steamboat which immediately +started for the Bay. News of his coming was telegraphed ahead, and was +announced from the stages of the San Francisco theaters so that when he +arrived at midnight a large number of people were awaiting him, bands +were playing, and bells were ringing; and a long procession escorted him +to the company's office. + +In all, there were sixty riders of this express company, all young men, +light in weight, accomplished riders, coolheaded, and absolutely brave. +They were held in high regard by all, and with good reason. Each when he +entered the service signed this pledge:-- + +"I agree not to use profane language, not to get drunk, not to gamble, +not to treat animals cruelly, and not to do anything incompatible with +the conduct of a gentleman." They also had to swear to be loyal to the +Union. + +The average journey of one man was seventy-five miles, this to be +accomplished in one day, but the men frequently had to double the +distance, and once, when the messenger who was waiting was killed by +Indians, "Buffalo Bill" (Mr. Cody) made the long trip of three hundred +and eighty-four miles, stopping only for meals and to change horses. + +By day and by night, through rain and storm, heat and cold, they rode, +these brave men, one facing east, the other west, alone, always alone, +often chased by Indians, though, owing to their watchfulness and the +superiority of their horses, they were seldom caught. A number were, +however, killed by immigrants, who mistook them for Indians or robbers. + +The great feat of the Pony Express was the delivering of Lincoln's +inaugural address in 1861. + +With the Southern states claiming to be out of the Union, people were +wild to know what the President would say. To St. Joseph, Missouri, +the address was hurried. Here it was carefully wrapped in oil skin, +consigned to the saddle bags, and amid wild cheers the express was +off. Horses were waiting every ten miles. What a ride was that! "Speed, +speed! faster, faster!" was the cry. Each man tried to do a trifle +better than the last, while the thousands on the Pacific coast seemed to +be straining their ears for the sound of the galloping hoof beats which +brought nearer to them the brave message of the grand new President. And +when the last rider came in, making the final ten miles in thirty-one +minutes, what a cheer went up! + +One thousand nine hundred and fifty miles in one hundred and eighty-five +hours, the message had traveled--at an average of a little more than ten +miles an hour--straight across the continent. + +When we read of the speed-breaking special trains of to-day, let us not +forget what these brave men of the first overland express accomplished +in the days of '61. + + + +Chapter X + +The Signal Gun and the Steel Trail + + + +Boom! Boom! Boom! Never in history did the firing of a gun have such +a powerful effect as that which sent the first shot at the flag of the +Union, as it floated over Fort Sumter on that memorable Friday, April +12, 1861. + +Fired at a time when most people were hoping for a peaceful outcome of +the sectional troubles, it astonished the world and stirred the whole +country to its depths. + +Across the dry plains and rugged mountains of the West its echoes seemed +to roll. The startled people of the Pacific coast looked at each other +with anxious, uncertain eyes. No one felt quite sure of his neighbor, +and they were so far from the scene of action that the government could +not help them. They must settle the great question for themselves. Who +was for the Union? Who was against it? + +In Washington the President and his advisers waited with keen anxiety to +learn what wealthy California would do. Senator Gwin had often spoken in +Congress and elsewhere as though it would certainly be one of the states +to secede. He and others had talked too, in a confident way, of the +"Grand Republic of the Pacific" that might be then formed out of the +lands of the Western coast. To lose this rich territory would be a +terrible blow to the Union. + +From the time of California's admission there had been a constant +endeavor on the part of Southern sympathizers to introduce slavery into +its territory. A large number of politicians, especially those holding +prominent positions, were Southerners, some of whom, like Dr. Gwin, had +come to the Pacific coast for the express purpose of winning either the +new state or some portion of it for the South and slavery. + +They had succeeded in giving it a fugitive slave law that was +particularly evil. Under it a colored man or woman could be seized, +brought before a magistrate, claimed as a slave, and taken back South +without being allowed to testify in his or her own behalf. Neither could +a colored person give testimony in a criminal case against one who was +white. + +Opposed to this strong Southern party one man stood almost alone as the +friend of free labor and free soil. This man was David C. Broderick. For +years he fought the slavery interests inch by inch in San Francisco, in +the state legislature, and finally in the United States Senate. + +When he went to Washington he found the same state of affairs as +in California--President Buchanan yielding to the Southern demands, +Southern members ruling and often terrifying Congress. Broderick at once +joined Stephen A. Douglas in the struggle he was then making for free +soil in Kansas and the territories, and his speeches were clear and +often fierce. + +In reply to a speech from a Carolina senator in regard to the disgrace +of belonging to the working class, Mr. Broderick said (Congressional +Globe, 1857-58), "I represent a state where labor is honorable, where +the judge has left his bench, the doctor and lawyer their offices, the +clergyman his pulpit, for the purpose of delving in the earth, where no +station is so high, no position so great, that its occupant is not proud +to boast that he has labored with his own hands. There is no state +in the Union, no place on earth, where labor is so honored, so well +rewarded, as in California." Mr. Broderick died in the midst of his +bright career, murdered in a duel by one of the leading members of the +slavery party. + +When he died, those of his fellow-citizens who believed much as he did, +yet had let him fight secession and slavery lone-handed, recognized what +he had done for them--their "brave young senator," as Seward called him, +who had kept the evil of slavery from their soil. His work, stopped by +the bullet of his enemy, was taken up by the people, and his name became +a rallying cry for the lovers of the Union, of honest labor, and of free +soil. + +News that the war had really begun brought forth the strongest +Union sentiments from many of those who had before been careless +or indifferent. A mass meeting of the people of San Francisco was +held--business was suspended, flags were flying everywhere, while +eager-faced people listened to earnest Union speeches. A few days later +the legislature, by an almost unanimous vote, declared in the strongest +terms for the Union, offering to give any aid the government might +require. No one could longer have any doubt of the loyalty of the state +of California. + +There were certainly many people from the South who were deeply in +sympathy with secession; but these, if honorable men who were able to +fight, hurried east to join the Confederate army, or if they chose to +remain under the protection of the flag, were generally wise enough to +keep their feelings to themselves. + +Some there were, however, who, while they enjoyed the law and order of +the peaceful state, still spoke, plotted, and schemed for secession. To +keep such as these in order it was found necessary to retain most of +the California troops in the state for home defense. Those who did reach +Eastern battlefields fought well and nobly. + +One of San Francisco's ministers was unwise enough frequently to express +disloyal views in the pulpit, until one Sunday morning he found the +banner he would dishonor floating over his church, and hanging to a post +in front of the door a figure intended to represent himself, with his +name and the word "traitor" pinned to it. The next day he left for +Europe, where he stayed until the close of the war. + +Another minister, Thomas Starr King, was one of the most earnest +supporters of the government. He organized the California division of +the Sanitary Commission for the assistance of sick and wounded soldiers. +Chiefly through his influence California gave over a million and a +half to that cause, which was one third of the whole expenditure of the +Commission. + +In 1862 Leland Stanford became governor. He was devoted to the Union, +always striving to influence his state to give liberally of its wealth +to help the government; and its record in that line was second to none. +"A good leader, energetic and long-headed," the governor was called; but +no one dreamed that long before he was an old man, he would give for the +cause of education in California the mightiest gift ever bestowed by any +one man for the benefit of humanity. + +During the war, California furnished 16,000 men, two regiments of which +were among the best of the Union cavalry. One regiment of infantry +was composed of trappers and mountaineers, from whom were taken many +"sharpshooters" so famous in assisting the advance of the Northern +troops. + +In the southern part of the state there was a body of volunteers known +as the California Column, also the California Lancers, who, far off +though they were, found enough to do. They drove the Southern forces out +of Arizona and New Mexico, fought the Apache Indians in several battles, +met and defeated the Texas Rangers, and took various military posts in +Texas. + +Great was the excitement in San Francisco when one morning the United +States marshall captured, just as she was leaving the wharf, a schooner +fully fitted out as a privateer. She was filled with armed men, and in +her cabin was a commission signed by Jefferson Davis in the name of the +Confederate States, also a plan for capturing the forts of the harbor, +the Panama mail steamer, then en route north, and a treasure steamer +soon to, sail for Panama. + +In Los Angeles disloyalty was more outspoken and unrebuked by public +opinion. Sometimes the surrounding ranchmen, many of whom were in +sympathy with the South, on the news of a Southern victory would come +into Los Angeles to celebrate with disloyal banners and transparencies. +Living on Main Street there was a Yankee, one of the leading citizens, +who upon such an occasion would take his rifle and, promenading the +flat roof of his wide-spreading adobe, hurl down defiance at the enemy, +calling them "rebels" and "traitors" and defying them to come up +and fight him man to man. But there must have been a feeling of good +fellowship through it all, since no stray bullet was ever sent to put a +stop to the taunts of the fiery old Unionist. + +Some Spanish soldiers of the California Column, however, grew weary of +such open disloyalty, and one night, when off duty, captured two of the +Southern ranchmen and proposed to hang them to the oaks in the pasture +near where the city of Pasadena now stands. The American officers of the +troops, hearing of the affair, hurried out from Los Angeles and begged +their men to give up so disorderly and unsoldier-like an idea. "Yes, +sirs, it is true, all that you say; but they are rebels, they talk too +much; why suffer them to cumber Union ground?" This seemed the only +reply they could obtain; but finally the captives were liberated, though +advised in the future to guard well their tongues and actions. + +The desire for war news from the Eastern states led to the completion +of a telegraph line between the Missouri River and San Francisco, and +on all sides the need of an overland railroad was also being recognized. +Plans for such a road had been frequently presented to Congress, but +straightway slavery entered into the question. The South wanted the +road, but it must be through Southern territory, while the North favored +the middle or northern route; and they could not agree. + +On one such occasion Senator Benton spoke in favor of a line that had +just been surveyed by Captain Fremont. He was told by those who had +other plans that his route was not possible, that only scientific men +could lay out a railroad and determine the most practicable ways and +easiest passes. But Senator Benton's answer is worth remembering. + +"There is," said he, "a class of scientific engineers older than +the schools and more unerring than mathematics. They are the wild +animals--the buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, and bear--which traverse the +forest, not by compass, but by an instinct which leads them always the +right way to the lowest passes in the mountains, the shallowest fords in +the rivers, the richest pastures in the forest, the best salt springs, +the shortest practicable route between two distant points. They are the +first engineers to lay out a road; the Indian follows. Hence the buffalo +road becomes the war path. The white hunter follows the same trail in +the pursuit of game; after that the buffalo road becomes the wagon road +of the emigrant, and, lastly, the railroad of the scientific man." + +Through her senators and representatives California spent several years +in pushing this matter. In vain they called attention to the fact that +the distance from Washington to San Francisco by the way of Cape Horn +was 19,000 miles, or more than the entire distance round the earth in +the latitude of San Francisco; and that by Panama it was as far as from +Washington to Peking in a direct line. + +In 1859-60 there appeared in Washington a young engineer named Judah, +who had been sent by the people of the Pacific coast to urge the +immediate building of the road by the middle route that which was +finally chosen. Mr. Judah knew more about the matter than any other man, +east or west, and he failed in his mission only because the troubles +over slavery and the prospect of immediate secession took up the whole +attention of Congress. + +However, he came back in no way discouraged, and continued to urge the +matter in his cheerful, hopeful way. That he should be hopeful does not +seem strange to us who know that the road was built and that it was a +great success, but then conditions were different. + +"What, build a railroad over those mountains, with their terrible winter +snows and landslides, across the desert, where there is absolutely no +water? It is impossible, and these men know it; they only want to get +the people's money." Such was the type of article one might read at any +time in the papers of the day. + +Still, Mr. Judah's talk had its results. One June day in 1861, Leland +Stanford, a young lawyer, who was at that time Sacramento's chief +grocer, Mark Hopkins and Collis P. Huntington, hardware merchants, and +Charles Crocker, proprietor of the leading dry-goods store, met and +organized the Central Pacific Railroad Company, with Stanford as +president, Huntington as vice-president, Hopkins as treasurer, Judah as +engineer, and Crocker as one of the directors. + +This action seems sensible enough as we write of it, but it was one of +the most daring undertakings ever attempted by any body of men. None of +the four was rich, all had worked hard for the little they had; but they +felt that the country must have the railroad, that without it California +could never become a great state. But if they could only push forward, +as soon as they had themselves accomplished something, help would come +to them from the East and their success would be assured. + +Again Mr. Judah went to Washington, and this time he was successful. The +war had made the government feel the need of the railway, not only to +bind the Pacific coast closer to the eastern half of the continent, but +to transport troops to defend its western shores. There were many now +ready to vote for the road, and in July, 1862, the bill, having been +passed by both houses, was signed by Abraham Lincoln. + +It provided for the building of two roads, one from the Missouri River +westward, the Union Pacific, and one from the Pacific coast eastward, +the Central Pacific, the two to be continued till they met and formed +one long line. + +On the day that Leland Stanford was inaugurated governor of California, +he had the further satisfaction of beginning the construction of the +overland railroad by digging and casting the first shovelful of earth. +This took place in Sacramento, in the presence of a large gathering +of the leading people of the state; and from that time the work went +speedily on. It was estimated that the road would cost an average of +eighty thousand dollars a mile, though in the mountains the cost was +nearer one hundred and fifty thousand. + +Not only the right of way, but a large portion of the near-by public +lands, were granted by the government to each road, and at the +completion of each forty miles of track there was to be further aid. The +state of California, the city of San Francisco, and the counties through +which the railroad passed, each gave generously to the Central Pacific; +but all this did not bring in enough ready money. Huntington in the +East and Stanford in the West almost worked miracles in getting funds to +begin the work. + +In the death of Mr. Judah, which occurred at this time, the company +suffered a great loss. Although the enterprise went on to a successful +ending, his name dropped out of sight; but those who know, feel that to +him California owes a great debt of gratitude. Though she was sure +to have the overland sometime, it might have been years later in its +accomplishment, but for the faith, energy, and perseverance of Theodore +D. Judah. + +Charles Crocker now took charge of the building of the road; to +accomplish the work he imported Chinese, whom he found peaceable, +industrious, and quick to learn. They were arranged in companies moving +at the word of command like drilled troops--"Crocker's battalions" they +were called. There was need of the greatest haste to get the different +portions completed in the time allowed. + +"Why," said Crocker, "I used to go up and down that road in my car like +a mad bull, stopping along where there was anything wrong, raising Cain +with the men that were not up to time." + +Neither Mr. Crocker nor Mr. Stanford ever recovered from the strain of +that time. It is said that it eventually caused the death of both men. + +Meantime the Union Pacific was pushing overland westward as fast as +possible. Each road was aiming for the rich plains of Utah. If the +Central stopped at the eastern base of the mountains, it would make this +road of little value except for Pacific coast traffic; but if it could +reach Ogden, the line would pay well. + +It was a mighty race all through the winter of 1868 and 1869, Crocker +and his men working like giants. What he accomplished then was scarcely +less wonderful than Napoleon's passage of the Alps. + +All the supplies for his thousands of workmen, all the materials and +iron for the road, even the locomotives, he had to have hauled on +sledges over the mountains through the winter snows. + +Ogden was finally made the place where the two roads joined; but they +first met, and the last work was done, at Promontory, a point fifty +miles northwest of Ogden. There in May, 1869, the last tie was laid. +It was made of California laurel, handsomely polished, and on it was a +silver plate with an inscription and the names of the officers of the +two roads. + +It was an eventful meeting on that grassy plain, under the blue Western +sky, while all around rose the rugged peaks that had at last been +conquered by man's energy. The telegraph at this spot was, for the +occasion, connected with all the offices along the line and in the +leading cities of the country, where crowds were in waiting to hear that +the great work was finished. + +Two trains were there with their engines, as Bret Harte describes them, +"facing on the single track, half a world behind each back." Around +stood the guests and officers of the roads waiting for the final +ceremony. "Hats off," clicked the telegraph. Prayer was offered, and +then the four gold and silver spikes, presented by California, Nevada, +Idaho, and Montana, were put in place by President Stanford of the +Central Pacific and Dr. Durant of the Union Pacific. + +As the silver hammers fell on the golden spikes, in all the telegraph +offices along the line and in the Eastern cities the hammer of the +magnet struck the bell--"tap, tap, tap." "Done,"--flashed the message to +the eager crowds. + +All over the land the event was celebrated with great rejoicing. In +Buffalo, as the news came, hundreds of voices burst out in the singing +of "The Star-Spangled Banner." In Boston, services were held at midday +in Trinity Church, where the popular pastor offered "thanks to God for +the completion of the greatest work ever undertaken by men." + +To the four men who were the builders of the Central Pacific, the public +and particularly the state of California owes much. They not only built +the road, but made it a grand, complete success in all its departments. +Without it, California would still be a remote province, little known. +With it she is one of the chief states of the Union, and in the great +business world she is known and felt as a power. + +Later the corporation became very wealthy and powerful. Then it was that +it began to abuse its power, working often against the best interests of +the inhabitants of the Pacific slope. In some cases, as in the eviction +of the people who were settlers in the Mussel Slough District, it was +guilty of extreme cruelty and injustice, such as is almost certain to +bring its own punishment. But in reckoning with the Southern Pacific, +for so the company is now called, the people of California should be +careful to look on both sides of the question, remembering the terrible +struggles of those early days, when the building of the Overland, +that greatest achievement America had ever seen, was to them like +the miraculous gift of some fairy godmother, seemingly beyond the +possibility of nature. + + + +Chapter XI + +That Which Followed After + + + +About the time that the people of California were beginning to feel +the trouble arising from the unlimited wealth and power of the great +railroad corporation, they discovered what they felt was danger coming +from another quarter. This was in the large number of Chinese pouring +into the state. Already every town of importance had its quaint Chinese +quarter, bits of Asia transplanted to the western hemisphere. Yet these +sons of Asia, with their quiet, gliding motions and oriental dress, had +been of great service in the development of the new land. Many of the +most helpful improvements were rendered possible by their labor, and for +years they were almost the only servants for house or laundry work to +be obtained. Never did the housewives of the Pacific coast join in the +outcry against the Chinese. + +Although all this was true, it was also a fact that an American +workingman could not live and support his family on the wages a Chinaman +would take; and when the white man saw the Chinese given the jobs +because they could work cheaply, he became discouraged and angry. Was he +to be denied a living in his own country because of these strangers? For +this reason the working people became very bitter toward the Chinese. + +Their complaints were carried to Washington, and because of them +the government finally arranged with China for the restriction of +immigration, but not, however, before the matter caused much trouble in +California. + +During the years 1876-77 times were rightly called "hard" along the +Pacific slope. Often laboring men could not get work, and their families +suffered. The blame for all this was unjustly given to the Chinese, who +were several times badly treated by mobs. The general discontent led at +last to a demand for a new state constitution, which many people thought +would remedy the evils of which they complained. For twenty-five years +the old constitution had done good service. On the day it had been +signed, Walter Colton, alcalde of Monterey, wrote thus of it in his +diary: "It is thoroughly democratic; its basis, political and social +equality, is the creed of the thousands who run the plow, wield the +plane, the hammer, the trowel, the spade." Still it had its faults, the +greatest of which was the power given the legislature over public moneys +and lands, as well as the chance it allowed for dishonesty in voting. + +Unfortunately many of the delegates to the convention which was to make +the new constitution were foreigners who knew very little of American +manners, customs, and laws, and few of them were among the deeper +thinkers of the state, men who had had experience in lawmaking. That the +new constitution is not much better than the old, many who helped in the +making of it will agree. It was adopted in May, 1879. Since that time it +has received a number of changes by means of amendments voted for by +the people, and in spite of whatever errors it has contained, the state +under it has gone forward to a high degree of prosperity. + +In 1875, during the administration of Governor Pacheco, the first native +state governor, an invitation was extended to native-born boys of San +Francisco to take part in the Fourth of July celebration. A fine body +of young men were thus assembled, of whom Hittell in his story of San +Francisco says, "They were unparalleled in physical development and +mental vigor, and unsurpassed in pride and enthusiasm for the land that +gave them birth." This gathering led to the founding of the "Native Sons +of the Golden West," an organization which now numbers many thousands +and of which the great state may well be proud. Later there was +organized a sister society of native daughters, and this also has a +large membership. As stated in their constitution, one of the main +objects of these sons and daughters of the West is "to awaken and +strengthen patriotism and keep alive and glowing the sacred love of +California." + +An event of the utmost importance to the southern part of the state was +the completion of the railroad between San Francisco and Los Angeles, +which occurred in 1879. Its route lay through the rich valley of the San +Joaquin. Work had been carried on from each end of the line, and it was +a very happy assembly which gathered to witness the junction of the two +divisions, the event taking place at the eastern end of the San Fernando +tunnel. This road was afterward extended from Los Angeles eastward by +the way of Yuma and Tucson, and is to-day the Southern Pacific Overland. +Later the Santa Fe Company built its popular road between Los Angeles +and the Eastern states. Both these companies now have lines from Los +Angeles to San Diego, and the Southern Pacific has a coast road the +length of the state, along which the scenery is of great beauty. + +Indians + +In the history of the state the most pathetic portion is that which +relates to the Indians. Bancroft says, "The California valley cannot +grace her annals with a single Indian war bordering upon respectability. +It can boast, however, a hundred or two of as brutal butcherings on the +part of our honest miners and brave pioneers as any area of equal extent +in our republic." Miners and settlers coming into the country would +take up the waters where the natives fished, the land where they hunted, +driving them back to rocky soil, where there was nothing but acorns and +roots to support life. As a result the poor, unhappy creatures, driven +by hunger, would steal the newcomers' horses and cattle. It is true that +the white men depended, in a great measure, upon their animals for the +support of their families; but they thought only of their own wrongs, +and would arm in strong parties, chase the wretched natives to their +homes, and tear down their miserable villages, killing the innocent and +guilty alike. The government was the most to blame, because it did not +in the first place enact laws for the protection of the Indians in their +rights. + +About the towns, many of the natives gathered for work. In some places +the authorities had the right to arrest them as vagabonds and hire them +out as bondmen to the highest bidder, for a period often of as many as +two or three months at a time, with no regard to family ties. Little +seems to have been done to assist them to a better kind of life. In Los +Angeles, when working in the vineyards as grape pickers, they were paid +their wages each Saturday night, and immediately they were tempted +on all sides by sellers of bad whisky and were really hurried into +drunkenness. Their shrieks and howls would, for a time, make the night +hideous, when they were driven by the officers of the law into corrals, +like so many pigs or cattle, and left there till Monday morning, when +they were handed over to whoever chose to pay the officers for the right +to own them for the next week. + +Near the Oregon line lived some of the most warlike and troublesome +Indians of California. Here there were one or two severe fights, the +worst of which was with the Modocs, in the northern lava beds. It +was here that General Canby was killed. To-day the Modocs are still +suffering keenly. In the upper part of the state the Indians have no +lands of any kind, and noble men and women of California are working to +secure for them their rights from the government. In the south, whole +villages have been found living on nothing but ground acorn meal, from +which miserable diet many children die and older people cannot long +sustain life. + +The Sequoya League, an association for the betterment of the Indians of +the Southwest, has done much toward opening the eyes of the public and +of the government officials to the unhappy condition of these first +owners of the soil. Congress, in 1906, appropriated $100,000 to be used +in buying land and water for those Indian reservations or settlements +where the suffering was greatest. This was a good beginning, but as the +needy Indians are scattered all over the state, much more is required +before they can be so placed that they can earn a living by their +labors. + +Sheep Industry + +Gradually the cattle industry, which was for so long a time the leading +business of the country, gave way to sheep raising. During summer and +fall large flocks of grayish white merinos could be seen getting a rich +living on the brown grasses, the yellow stubble of old grain fields, and +the tightly rolled nuts of the bur clover; while in winter and spring, +hills and plains with their velvet-like covering of green alfileria +offered the best and juiciest of food. This was the time of the coming +of the lambs. As soon as they were old enough to be separated from their +mothers they were put during the day in companies by themselves. A band +of five or six hundred young lambs, playing and skipping over the young +green grass they were just learning to eat, was a beautiful sight to +everybody save to the man or boy who had them to herd. They led him such +a chase that by the time he had them safely corralled for the night, +every muscle in his body would be aching with fatigue. + +Shearing time was the liveliest portion of the herder's life, which was +generally very lonely. First came the shearing crew with their captain; +next arrived the venders of hot coffee, tamales, tortillas, and other +Mexican dainties; brush booths were erected and a brisk trade began. The +herds were driven up and into a corral where several shearers could work +at a time. Snip, snip, snip, went the shears hour after hour. It was the +boast of a good shearer that he could clip a sheep in seven minutes and +not once bring blood. As fast as cut, the wool was packed in a long sack +suspended from a framework. The dust was dreadful, and the man or boy +whose duty it was, when the bag was partly full, to jump in and tramp +the wool down so that the bag might hold more, would nearly choke before +he emerged into the clear daylight. + +The passage of the no-fence law by the legislature of 1873, while it was +opposed by the sheep and cattle men, was one of the greatest aids to the +growth of agriculture, especially in the southern part of the state. +It provided that cattle and sheep should not be allowed to run loose +without a herder to keep them from trespassing. This saved the farmer +from the necessity of fencing his grain fields, a most important help in +a country where fence material was so scarce and expensive. + +Colony Days + +For some time after California's admission to the Union most of the +events of importance in its history took place around the Bay of San +Francisco and the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin; but early +in the seventies the south land awoke from its long sleep and took part +in history making, not in such stirring incidents as those of the days +of '49, but in a quieter growth that was yet of importance in the making +of the state. People in the East had begun to find out that southern +California had a mild, healthful climate and that, though the sands +of her rivers and rocks of her mountains were not of gold, still her +oranges, by aid of irrigation, could be turned into a golden harvest, +and that all her soil needed was water in order to yield most bountiful +crops. + +As little land could be bought in small ranches, those wishing to +settle in the country chose the colony plan. A number of families would +contribute to a common sum, with which would be purchased a large +piece of land of several thousand acres with its water right. Each man +received from this a number of acres in proportion to the amount of +money he had invested. The first colony formed was that of Anaheim; then +followed Westminster, Riverside, Pasadena, and many others, and by that +time people began to come into southern California in large numbers. + +The overland journey was much longer, then than now, but quite as +pleasant. At twenty-two miles an hour the country could be seen and +enjoyed, acquaintance made with the plump little prairie dogs of the +Nebraska plains, and their neighbors the ground owls, which bobbed grave +salutes as the train passed by. Bands of galloping deer, groups of grave +Indian warriors sitting on their ponies watching the train from afar, +an occasional buffalo lumbering along, shaking his shaggy head, were the +things that interested the traveler who took the overland trains in '74 +and '75. + +At that time between San Francisco and Los Angeles there were two forms +of travel: a hundred miles of railroad, with the rest of the distance by +stage; and the steamship line. Families chose the ship. From San Pedro +to Los Angeles was the only railroad of the southern country. In Los +Angeles the flat-roofed adobe buildings, where people could walk about +on the tops of the houses, were a wonder to the Eastern strangers. +Beautiful homes some of them were, where glimpses could be had of +stately senoras in silks and laces, and beautiful senoritas whose dark +eyes made havoc with the hearts of the colony young men. The young +Californian, who seemed a very part of his fiery steed, was at once the +admiration and envy of the Yankee boy. + +Queer sights were to be seen at every turn. Creaking carretas, whose +squeaking wheels announced their coming a block away, filled the +streets, some loaded with grapes, others with rounded shaggy grease-wood +roots or sacks of the red Spanish bean and great branches of flaming +red peppers. The oxen, with yoke on the horns, seemed as if out of some +Bible picture. + +Life in the different colonies was much the same. The newcomers had many +things to learn, but they made the best of their mistakes, and days of +hard work, such as many of them had never known, were often ended with +social or literary meetings, where minds were brightened and hearts +warmed by friendly intercourse. + +When the rains were heavy, the swift mountain streams could not be +crossed, and often provisions gave out; then with neighborly kindness +those who had, loaned to those who had not, until fresh supplies could +be obtained. To this day the smell of new redwood lumber, the scent of +burning grease-wood brush, will bring back those times to the colonists +with a painful longing for the happy days of their new life in the new +land. Many never gained wealth, while some lost lands and savings; but +it was these earnest, intelligent men and women who developed the rich +valleys of the south land and to whom we are indebted for the bloom and +beauty found there to-day. + +The result of the land laws and the ill-treatment of the Mexican +population at the mines was a period of highway robbery by bands of +outlaws, each under the leadership of some especially daring man. The +story of some of their adventures reminds the hearer of the tales of +Robin Hood. Not so mild as Robin's were their lives, however. Often +their passage was marked by a trail of blood, where bitter revenge was +taken because of bitter wrongs. Last of these bands was that of Vasquez, +who robbed the colony folk gently with many apologies. He was finally +captured and executed, and with him the bandits passed from the page of +state history. + +Alaska + +One night in 1867 there took place in Washington an event that was to be +of great importance to the western part of the United States. This was +the signing of the treaty for the purchase of Alaska. As early as 1860 +Mr. Seward, in a speech delivered at St. Paul, said: + +"Looking far off into the northwest I see the Russian as he occupies +himself establishing seaports, towns, and fortifications, on the verge +of this continent, and I say, 'Go on and build up your posts all along +the coast up even to the Arctic Ocean, they will yet become the outposts +of my own country.'" So long ago did the desire for Alaska, or Russian +America as it was then called, possess the mind of the great statesman. +But it was not until seven years later that he found the chance to win +the government to his views. One evening, while the matter was under +discussion between the two countries, the Russian minister called upon +Mr. Seward at his home, to inform him that he had just received the +Czar's sanction for the sale. + +"Good, we will sign the treaty to-night," said the American statesman. + +"What, so late as this, and your department closed, your clerks +scattered?" remonstrated the Russian. + +"It can be done," replied Mr. Seward; and it was. At midnight the treaty +was signed. The price paid for Alaska was less than the cost of two of +our modern battleships. Every year has proved more and more the wisdom +of the purchase. The discovery of gold in particular has immensely +increased its value and has brought to California an enlarged commerce. + +Spanish-American War + +In 1898 came the war with Spain. The tidings of the 15th of February, +1898, filled the hearts of the people of California with indignation +and grief. That the United States battleship Maine had been blown up +in Havana harbor and numbers of our seamen killed, seemed to many +sufficient cause for immediate war. Some, however, feared for the +Pacific coast settlements, with insufficient fortifications and no war +vessels of importance, except the magnificent Western-built battleship, +Oregon. This vessel was at Puget Sound when the news of the blowing up +of the Maine reached her. At the same time came orders to hurry on coal +and proceed to San Francisco. There ten days were spent in taking on as +much coal and provisions as the vessel could carry. Then, with orders to +join the Atlantic fleet as quickly as possible, on the morning of March +19 she steamed through Golden Gate and turned southward, to begin one of +the longest voyages ever made by a battleship. + +The people of California were sad at heart to part with their noble +vessel, and when, in April, war was declared, thousands followed the +loved ship and her brave men with their interest and prayers. All alone +upon the great sea she was sailing steadily onward, to meet, perhaps, a +fleet of foes, or worse still, a dart from that terror of the waters, +a torpedo boat; yet always watchful and always ready for whatever foe +might appear, she journeyed on. + +The order given by Captain Clark to his officers in case they sighted +the Spanish squadron, was to turn and run away. As the Spanish ships +followed they were almost sure to become separated, some sailing faster +than others. The Oregon having a heavy stern battery, could do effective +fighting as she sailed; and if the enemy's ships came up one at a time, +there might be a chance of damaging one before the next arrived. + +Through two oceans and three zones, fifteen thousand miles without +mishap, the Oregon sailed in fifty-nine days. When she joined the fleet +where it lay off Cuba, she came sweeping in at fifteen knots an hour, +the winner of the mightiest race ever run, cheered at the finish by +every man of the American squadron. All honor should be given to her +wise captain and brave crew and to the Western workmen who made her so +stanch and true. + +On a fair May day, while California children were rejoicing over their +baskets of sweet May flowers, the first battle of the war was fought, +the first, and for California the most important. When Dewey destroyed +the Spanish fleet on that Sunday morning (May 1, 1898) in Manila Bay, +he not only won an important victory, but a greater result lay in the +change of attitude of the United States toward the rest of the world. + +It was a change which had begun long before; many events had led up to +it, but possession of the Philippines and other islands of the Pacific +forced our country to recognize the importance of Asia and the ocean +which washes its shores. + +Commerce has always moved westward, going from Asia to Greece, to Rome, +to western Europe, to the western hemisphere; and the race which takes +up the movement and carries it forward is the one which gains the +profits. All must realize the truth of Mr. Seward's prophecy when he +said, "The Pacific coast will be the mover in developing a commerce +to which that of the Atlantic Ocean will be only a fraction." "The +opportunity of the Pacific," some one has called it. Nearly two thirds +of the people of the earth inhabit the lands washed by the waters of +this western sea, and the country which secures their trade will become +the leading nation of the world--a leadership which should be of the +best kind, supplying the needs of peaceful life, building railroads, +encouraging the things that help a people upward and onward. To the +young men of California, Hawaii and the Philippines offer every chance +for daring, energy, and invention. If to honesty and energy there be +added a speaking knowledge of the Spanish language, there lie before +the youth of the Pacific coast the finest opportunities for active, +successful lives. + +As soon as President McKinley issued his call to arms for the Spanish +war, the men of California responded with a rush. A large number of +those who had enlisted were hurried to San Francisco, where the military +authorities were quite unprepared to furnish supplies. For a day or two +there was real suffering; then the Society of the Red Cross came to the +rescue, and thousands of dollars' worth of food and blankets were sent +to the camp. As soon as the always generous people of San Francisco +comprehended the state of affairs, there was danger that the hungry +young soldiers would be ill from overfeeding. + +The twenty-third day of May, 1898, is a day to be remembered in the +history of our country, for on that day went out the first home regiment +from the mainland of the United States, to fight a foe beyond the sea. +When the twelve companies of California Volunteers marched through the +city from the Presidio to the docks of the Pacific Mail and Steamship +Company, two hundred thousand people accompanied them. So hard was it +for our peace-loving people to understand the real meaning of war that +it was not until the brave lads and earnest men were actually marching +to the steamer which was to carry them thousands of miles to meet danger +and death, that many quite realized the sorrowful fact. Men cheered +the regiment as it passed, but the sobs of the women sometimes nearly +drowned the hurrahs. Said one officer, "It was heartrending. If we had +let ourselves go, we would have cried our way to the dock." But in the +war the record of the California troops was one that gave new honor to +their state. + +Annexation of Hawaii + +"The Hawaiian Islands," said Walt Whitman, in the Overland Monthly, +"are not a group. They are a string of rare and precious pearls in the +sapphire center of the great American seas. Some day we shall gather up +the pretty string of pearls and throw it merrily about the neck of the +beautiful woman who has her handsome head on the outside of the +big American Dollar, and they will be called the beautiful American +Islands." + +In 1893 the native queen of the islands was deposed by a revolution +conducted in a great measure by Americans living in Hawaii. A +provisional government was formed and an application made for annexation +to the United States. Through two presidential terms the matter was +discussed both in Congress and by the people all over the country. +Many were against extending our possessions beyond the mainland in any +direction. Others thought it unfair to the natives of the islands to +take their lands against their will. It seemed to be pretty well proved, +however, that the native government was not for the advancement and best +interests of the country, and that in a short time these kindly, gentle +people would have to give up their valuable possessions to some stronger +power. + +Captain Mahan, writing of these conditions, said: "These islands are the +key to the Pacific. For a foreign nation to hold them would mean that +our Pacific ports and our Pacific commerce would be at the mercy of that +nation." + +In the early part of the Spanish war (July, 1898) the resolution for the +annexation of the Hawaiian Islands was passed by Congress and approved +by President McKinley, and the string of pearls was cast about +Columbia's fair neck. + +Pius Fund + +It seems strange that the first case to be tried in the peace court of +the nations at the Hague should have been in regard to the Pius Fund of +the Californias collected by the Jesuit padres two hundred and thirty +years before, to build missions for the Indians of California. The way +in which this money was obtained is described in Chapter IV of this +history. It grew to be a large sum, of which the Mexican government took +control, paying the interest to the Roman Catholic Church in Upper and +Lower California. After the Mexican war, Mexico refused to pay its share +to the Church of Upper California. The United States took up the matter, +claiming that according to the treaty which closed the war, the Catholic +Church of the state of California had a right to its Mexican property. + +In 1868 it was agreed by the two countries to leave the matter to the +decision of Sir Edward Thornton, English ambassador at Washington. He +decided that Mexico should pay an amount equal to one half the interest +since the war. Mexico did this, but had paid nothing during all the +years which had passed since that time. To settle the dispute finally, +it was decided to leave it to arbitration by the Hague court. The +verdict given was that Mexico should pay the Roman Catholic Church of +California $1,400,000 for the past, and one half the interest on the +fund each year from February, 1903, forever. + +Panama Canal + +The natural result of the nation's need in the Civil War was the +overland railroad. The danger to the Oregon on its long journey, +the difficulties in getting reinforcements to Admiral Dewey, and the +possession of new lands in the Pacific led to decided action in regard +to the building of a ship canal through the Isthmus of Panama. + +For years the plan had been talked over. In General Grant's first term +as President he saw so plainly our need of this water way, that he +arranged a canal treaty with Colombia, and it seemed as though the work +would soon begin, but the Colombian government refused to allow the +matter to go on, hoping to make better terms with the United States. +This was not possible then, so the plan was not carried out. Later, +a French company undertook to build a canal across Panama, but after +several years of work failed. + +Many of the Americans favored the route through Nicaragua, but after the +government had spent much money and time in considering carefully both +propositions, the preference was given to the Panama route. In 1902 an +act for the building of the canal was passed by Congress and approved by +President Roosevelt. It provided, however, that should the President be +unable to obtain a satisfactory title to the French company's work and +the necessary territory from the republic of Colombia on reasonable +terms and in a reasonable time, he should seek to secure the Nicaragua +route. The matter was almost settled, when again Colombia's greed got +the better of her judgment and she refused to ratify the compact. + +When the people of the province of Panama saw that they were likely to +lose their canal through the action of their government, they promptly +revolted and declared themselves independent of Colombia. The United +States recognized their independence, and a satisfactory treaty was at +once concluded with them. In March, 1904, the commission appointed by +the President for building the canal sailed for the Isthmus. + +Nearly one fourth of the work had already been done by the old company, +but there was yet a great deal to do. Besides the actual building of the +canal, its dams and locks, the fever district had to be made healthful +enough for workmen to live there, marshes had to be drained, pure +water brought in from the mountains, and the fever-spreading mosquitoes +killed. In addition to all this, the natives of the land and the many +bands of workmen of different races had to be brought into an orderly, +law-abiding condition. In less than a year it was found necessary to +alter the commission, the President choosing this time men particularly +noted for their energy and power to make things go. The work progressed +with great rapidity, until, in August, 1914, the canal was opened to +navigation. + +The Orient + +In the latter part of the nineteenth century the eastern portion of Asia +began to stir itself, rising up from the sleepy, shut-in life it had +led for hundreds of years. The eyes of the world watched in wonder the +progress of the war between China and Japan (1894-95). In it was fought +the first battle in which modern war vessels were engaged. It was found +that the Japanese, of whom so little was then known, could fight, and +fight well. + +As a result of the war, China ceded to Japan the territory of Manchuria +and the right to protect Korea. Russia and Germany objected, however, +and France agreed with them, so Japan had to give way. Soon Russia began +taking possession of the disputed territories, but she had constant +trouble with Japan, and early in 1904 war broke out. Before the close +of the year the civilized world stood astonished not only at the wisdom, +patriotism, and fighting qualities of the Japanese, but also at their +humanity, which would not have discredited a Christian nation. + +There took place a series of great battles, both on land and on the sea, +in which the Japanese were generally victorious. The terrible loss of +life and destruction of property led the President of the United States, +in the spring of 1905, to urge upon the two countries that fighting +cease and peace be arranged. + +Few statesmen believed that Mr. Roosevelt would be successful in his +humane endeavor, but he pushed his suggestion with patient perseverance +until, in September, 1905, Americans had the satisfaction of witnessing +upon their soil, at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, the signing of the treaty +of peace between Russia and Japan. + +Japan's methods of conducting the war had advanced her to a standing +among nations which she had never before occupied, and all realized the +wisdom of securing commercial relations with her people, who were so +rapidly adopting the habits and customs of the rest of the civilized +world. In this competition for her commerce, California, by her position +on the western shore of the United States, has unusual advantages, a +fact which was soon proved by the amount of money invested in increasing +her facilities for production and manufacturing. Unfortunately little +has yet been done in the matter of shipbuilding, and few vessels which +enter her harbors have been built in the state. + +Some Recent Events + +"I'll put a girdle around the earth in forty minutes," prophesied Puck +in "Midsummer Night's Dream." The boastful fairy did not succeed in +accomplishing this wonder until midnight on the Fourth of July, 1903. On +that day the Pacific cable from the United States to Hawaii, to Midway +Island, to Guam, and to Manila, began operations. The men worked hard +that last day of the cable laying, and by 11 P.M. the President of the +United States sent a message to Governor Taft at Manila. Soon after was +the old prophecy fulfilled, when President Roosevelt, no doubt with Puck +at his elbow, sent a message round the world in twenty minutes, thus +bettering Puck's idea by half. + +The saddest year in California's records is that of 1906. On the morning +of April 18, a great and overwhelming calamity overtook the beautiful +region around San Francisco Bay. A movement of the earth's crust which +began in the bottom of the ocean far out from land, reached the coast +in the vicinity of Tomales Bay in Marin County. Wrecking everything +that came in its direct path, it shivered its way in a southeasterly +direction to a point somewhere in the northern part of Monterey County. +The land on the two sides of the fault moved a short distance in +opposite directions. Thus in some straight fences and roads crossing the +fault, one section was found to be shifted as much as sixteen feet to +one side of the other. The severe vibrations set up by this break and +shifting extended a long distance in all directions. + +Although the earthquake was by no means so severe in San Francisco as +in the region of Tomales Bay or even in the vicinity of Stanford, Santa +Rosa, San Jose, or Agnews, it caused greater loss of life and property +on account of the crowded population. Many buildings were wrecked, +especially those poorly constructed on land reclaimed from swampy soil +or built up by filling in. + +People who had prophesied that, should an earthquake come, the high +buildings such as those of the Call and the Chronicle would surely +collapse, were astonished to see those giant structures apparently +unharmed while buildings of much less height, but without the steel +framework, were completely wrecked. + +The earthquake was a sad calamity, but had this been the sum of the +disaster the city would only have paused in its progress long enough to +clear away the wreck and to sorrow with the mourners. It was the fires +which sprang up while the water system was too damaged to be of use that +wiped out old historical San Francisco, leaving in its place a waste of +gray ashes and desolate ruins. Santa Rosa, San Jose, Stanford, Agnews, +all suffered severely from the earthquake; but in few cases did fires +arise to add to their loss. The State Insane Asylum at Agnews, which was +built on swampy ground, was a complete wreck with large loss of life. + +The marvelous bravery and cheerfulness with which the people of +San Francisco bore their cruel fate gave a lesson in courage and +unselfishness to humanity. The magnificent generosity with which not +only the people of southern and northern California, but of the whole +country, sprang to the relief of the unhappy city gave a silver lining +to the black cloud of disaster. + +Before the embers of their ruined homes had ceased to smoke the people +began the work of rebuilding, and at the time of the visit of the +Atlantic fleet of the United States navy in 1908, business had so +revived as to be almost normal, and the welcome accorded the silent +vessels in white by the gallant City of St. Francis was as hearty and +generous as any that greeted them during their progress. + +October, 1909, was marked by two events of importance to San Francisco. +One was the visit of President Taft, to whom the great state of +California had given all its electoral votes. The second was the +celebration, at the same time, of the discovery of the bay, which +occurred in the fall of 1769, the founding of the presidio and mission, +which took place in the fall of 1776, and the rebuilding of the burned +district. On this occasion the people of San Francisco and their guests +gave themselves up to a time of merrymaking--a three days' historical +carnival called, in honor of the commander of the expedition during +which the great bay was discovered, the "Portola Festival." + +In 1915 the Panama-Pacific International Exposition was held in San +Francisco. It contained many novel and beautiful features, and was +attended by vast multitudes of people. Another notable exposition was +held at San Diego, beginning in 1915 and continuing in 1916. + + + +Chapter XII + +"The Groves Were God's First Temples" + + + +If the people of this century continue the destruction of trees as they +are doing at present, a hundred years from now this will be a world +without forests, a woodless, treeless waste. What a desolate picture is +this! What a grave charge will the people of the future have to bring +against us that we recklessly destroy the trees, one of God's most +beautiful and useful gifts to man, without even an endeavor to replace +the loss by replanting! + +During the last hundred years the American lumber belt has moved +westward over a wide space. In the early days of our history nearly the +entire supply came from Maine, and what interesting stories we have +of those brave pioneer loggers and settlers! Gradually the noble woods +which furnished the tall, smooth masts for which American ships were +famous, were destroyed; and the ringing ax blows were then heard in the +forests about the Great Lakes and in the middle Southern states. This +supply is by no means exhausted, but to-day the heart of the lumber +interest is on the Pacific coast. + +Around the great central valley which is drained by the Sacramento and +the San Joaquin rivers, six hundred and forty miles long, lie mountain +ranges on whose slopes are some of the noblest forests of the world. +To the north of the central valley the trees of the east and west join, +forming a heavily wooded belt quite across the state. + +In the trade, the greatest demand is for lumber of the pine and fir +trees, and of these California has as many species as Europe and Asia +combined. She has, indeed, only a little less than one fifth of all the +lumber supply of the United States. Her most valuable tree for commerce +is the sugar pine. It attains a diameter of twelve feet or more and +is often two hundred feet high. But the most interesting trees of +California and of the world are the Sequoias, the oldest of all living +things. Very far back, in the time of which we have no written history, +in the moist days of gigantic vegetation and animals, the Sequoias +covered a large portion of the earth's surface; then came the great ice +overflow, and when that melted away, almost the only things living of +the days of giants were the Sequoias of middle and upper California, and +those on some two thousand acres over the Oregon line. + +The Sequoia sempervirens, which is commonly called redwood, is +distributed along the Coast Range, the trees thriving only when they +are constantly swept by the sea fogs. For lumber this tree is nearly +as valuable as the sugar pine. From Eureka to San Diego, this is the +material of which most of the houses are built. Because of its rich +color and the high polish it takes, especially the curly and grained +portions, its value for cabinet work is being more and more appreciated. +On account of the presence of acid and the absence of pitch and rosin +in its composition, it resists fire and is therefore a safe wood for +building. When the Baldwin Hotel in San Francisco, a six-story building +of brick and wood, burned down, two redwood water tanks on the top of +the only brick wall that was left standing, were found to be hardly +charred and quite water-tight. + +It is the redwood which furnishes the largest boards for the lumber +trade. Not long ago a man in the lumber region built his office of six +boards taken from one of the trees. The boards were twelve by fourteen +feet, and there was one for each wall, one for the floor, and one for +the ceiling. Windows and doors were cut out where desired. + +In the heart of the redwood and pine forests there are some thirty mill +plants, and they own about half of the timber district. The methods of +lumbering are exceedingly wasteful. Scarcely half of the standing timber +of a tract is taken by the loggers and what is left is often burned or +totally neglected. Replanting is unthought of and the young trees are +treated as a nuisance. + +Three fourths of the forests of California grow upon side hills, +generally with an incline of from fifteen to thirty degrees. When the +trees are gone, therefore, the rain soon washes away the soil, leaving +the rocks bare. When the next rainy season comes, the water, not being +able to sink into the earth, and so gradually find its way to the +streams, rushes down the hillsides in torrents, flooding the smaller +water courses. Then the rivers rise and overflow, causing great damage +to property; but their waters quickly subside, and when the dry season +comes they have not sufficient depth for the passage of ships of +commerce. The total destruction of the forests would soon destroy the +navigability of the principal water highways of the state, while +another serious result would be the lessening of the water supply for +irrigation. + +The second variety of the Sequoia, the gigantea, or "big tree," as it is +called, grows much farther inland than the redwood, being found on the +western slopes of the Sierras. There are ten separate groves of these +trees, from the little company of six in southern Placer County to +the southernmost Sequoia, two hundred and sixty miles away on the Tule +River. The whole put together would not make more than a few hundred +thousand of extra-sized trees, and of the giants themselves not more +than five hundred. These rise as high as three hundred and fifty feet, +and are from twenty to thirty feet through. Near the Yosemite the stage +road passes through the hollow center of one of those monsters. In a +grove owned by the government some cavalry men, with their horses, lined +up on a "big tree" log, and it easily held fourteen, each horse's nose +touching the next one's tail. + +How old these trees may be is yet unsettled, but Mr. John Muir, their +intimate friend and companion, tells of one which was felled which +showed by its rings that it was 2200 years old. Another which had blown +down was fully 4000 years old. Later investigation makes it seem not +unlikely that some have existed for even 5000 years. It seems a sin to +destroy a living thing of that age. + +The great basin of the Santa Cruz Mountains, which contains a large +collection of the Sequoia sempervirens, belongs to the United States +government. So, too, do the Mariposa grove of Sequoia gigantea, and the +General Grant park, and Tuolumne grove, each of which contains a small +number of fine specimens of the big trees. These properties will be +protected, but all other groves, in which are the giant Sequoias, are +in great danger. There has recently been a movement by the government +toward purchasing the Calaveras grove, which has the finest collection +of the big trees known, but nothing decided has been done. Meantime +there are a number of mills engaged in devouring this noble forest. + +Unless the people of California take up the matter with earnestness +and energy, the state and the United States will stand disgraced before +mankind for letting these wonders of the world, these largest and oldest +of all living things, be destroyed for the lumber they will make. They +should be purchased by the government and protected, then some movement +should be started in all lumber districts by which waste in logging may +be done away with, young trees protected and cleared, and forest land +replanted with suitable trees. The law excluding cattle and sheep from +the forests is already proving its wisdom by the new growth of young +trees. Only among the giant Sequoias of the Tule and King's River +district are there to be found baby trees of that species. + +The lumber trade is one of the most interesting and necessary industries +of the state. Work in the camp is healthful and well paid. Many a +delicate boy or young man in the city would grow strong and healthy and +live a much longer time if he would cast his lot with the hardy choppers +and cutters of the great forest of the Pacific slope. A logging crew +consists of thirty men, including two cooks. The discipline is as rigid +as that of a military system; each man knows his own particular duties, +and must attend to them promptly and faithfully. Trees are not chopped +down, as used to be the custom; with the exception of a little chopping +on either edge, a saw run by two men does the work. Oxen are seldom +used, as in early days on the Atlantic coast, to haul out the logs, +for they have given way to "donkeys,"--not the long-eared, loud-voiced +little animals, but the powerful, compact donkey-engines. + +Lumber schooners and steamers are the chief features of our coast +traffic. Almost all the large cities of the Pacific coast owe their +foundation and prosperity to this trade. San Francisco and Eureka in +Humboldt County are the principal ports of the trade. Mendocino has a +rock-bound coast, with no harbors, but she has fine forests. Here the +lumber steamer secures its cargo by means of suspended wire chutes as +trolleys. The outer end of the trolley wire is anchored in the ocean, +the wire crosses the deck of the moored steamer, the slack being taken +up to the ship's gaff, thus making a tight wire up and down which the +trolley car with its load is sent. + +Sometimes a great raft made of lumber is taken in tow by a steamer +loaded with the same material and they start on a voyage down the coast, +but this is a dangerous venture. If the sea becomes rough the raft may +break loose from the steamer and go plunging over the waves, no one +knows where. The brave captains of our coasting vessels fear nothing so +much as a timber raft adrift which may crash into a vessel at any moment +and against which there is no way of guarding. + + + +Chapter XIII + +To All that Sow the Time of Harvest Should be Given + + + +In all but savage countries, wheat is the most important product of the +soil, A large proportion of human beings living on the earth to-day are +so poverty-stricken as to make the question of food a matter of anxiety +for every day. The prayer for bread unites more voices than any other. + +The padres who settled California understood this well. A number of +bushels of wheat, snugly incased in leather sacks, formed a precious +part of the cargo of the San Carlos, that stout Spanish vessel which +in 1769 brought the first settlers to California. This seed-wheat +was divided among the early missions and as soon as possible was +planted--not with success at first. For a time the padres made little +progress in crop raising. They had to learn by their failures. In San +Diego the first wheat planted was sown in the river bottom and the seed +was carried entirely away by the rising of the stream in the winter; and +the next year, which proved to be a dry one, it was planted so far from +the water that it was almost all destroyed by drought. At San Gabriel +the first crop was drowned out, but the second, planted on the plain +where it could be irrigated, was a success. San Gabriel was chief +among the missions for wheat raising, and was called the "mother of +agriculture." + +Grain planting and harvesting, in the days of the padres, differed +widely from the methods which prevail to-day. Then the ground was plowed +once or twice, but in what manner? A yoke of oxen, guided by an Indian, +dragged a plow with an iron point made by an Indian blacksmith. If iron +could not be obtained, the point was of oak. Seed, which had been +first soaked in lye, was sown by hand, broadcast, and harrowed in with +branches of trees. The grain was cut by the Indians with knives and +sickles. It was afterward placed on the hardened floor of a circular +corral made for the purpose, and into it was turned a band of horses +which were urged to a run by the shouts and whips of the Indian +vaqueros. After running one way they were frightened into turning and +going the other. In this manner the grain was trampled out of the husks. +It was freed from the chaff by being thrown high in the air by the +shovelful, when the wind was blowing hard enough to carry away the light +straw. + +Next, the grain was washed and dried, then ground, generally between +two stones bolted together. A pole for a handle was also fastened by +the bolt, and the stone was turned, sometimes by mules, sometimes by +Indians. La Perouse, the French scientist who visited the coast in 1786 +and gave to the padres of San Carlos a handmill for grinding grain, said +that it would enable four Indian women to do the work of a hundred by +the old way. Before many years the padres at San Gabriel built a water +mill of stone and adobe which ground grain in large quantities, but not +with entire success, until Chapman, the first American in that region, +gave them his assistance to perfect the machinery. This interesting +building has been restored by Mr. H. E. Huntington and is an object of +interest to those who visit San Gabriel. + +In 1815 the missions raised enough wheat to supply the whole population, +and there was even an attempt to ship grain to Mexico. This was a +failure, but a little grain was sold to the Russians at Fort Ross. At +the time of the change in the mission settlements, when the padres were +sent away, all agriculture declined. During the Mexican War and when the +crowd of gold seekers came, there was very little grain or flour to be +had. Some of the gold hunters, who had been farmers in the East, failing +to find a fortune in the river sands, and seeing the lack of food +stuffs, went back to their old occupation. They put in crops of wheat +and barley along the waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and were +amazed at the fertility of the soil and the success of their venture. + +From this time the cultivation of wheat increased rapidly. In 1899 was +harvested the largest crop recorded. After that there was a decline in +wheat raising, because many farmers planted much of their grain lands to +fruit for canning and drying. To California inventors is due the credit +of substituting steam for hand labor in planting and harvesting grain. + +Let us look at the busy scene on a grain field in the California of +to-day. It is fall or early winter, and the time for planting has +arrived. Into the field, which is several thousands of acres in extent, +comes a great engine, one that does not need a track to run upon. Over +the ground it rolls. With strength equal to fifty horses it draws behind +it sixteen ten-inch plows, four six-foot harrows, and a press drill to +match. It takes only a few men to manage it, and in a short time it has +plowed, harrowed, and sown the broad acres; nothing is left to do until +the harvest time arrives. + +When the grain is ripe, there comes another great machine. This is the +harvester, whose knives or cutters may be as much as twenty-six feet +wide. This one machine cuts off the heads of wheat, thrashes them, +cleans the grain, and sacks it, clearing seventy-five acres in a day, +leaving on the fields the piles of sacked wheat ready for market. It +is most interesting to watch one of these giants of steel and iron +traveling over the uneven ground, crossing ditches, crawling along side +hills, without any trouble or change of pace, gathering in the ripe +grain, turning it out snugly tucked away in the brown gunny-sacks +waiting for its long journey by ship or car. How the padres would wonder +if they could see it working! + +The grain of the California wheat is white and soft, and contains much +gluten. No matter what hard red or yellow varieties are brought from +other countries and planted here, in a year or two they change to the +California type. It is not certainly known what causes this peculiarity. +The grain most in favor through the state is called "club wheat" from +the form of the head, which is blockshaped, instead of long and slender. +The "club wheat" holds fast its grain so that it can be harvested +without falling to the ground, which, in so dry a climate, is a great +point in its favor. + +Wheat is raised all over the state, both on high and on low land. Some +of the largest grain ranches are along the tule lands around Stockton. +These were marshes once, but have been drained, and now are choice grain +fields. Wheat was first sent out of the state to England as ballast for +returning ships, but the trade gradually increased until there are +now over one hundred of the finest sailing vessels engaged in it. +Unfortunately, few of these vessels are American, perhaps but one +fourth. It is a pity that our countrymen should not benefit more by this +trade. During the grain season at most of the Pacific ports the flag +of nearly every nation on earth is represented. All styles of shipping, +from the largest modern steamer to the smallest ocean sailing vessel, +are then to be found in the harbors of the coast. + +Grain is carried to the docks in barges, schooners, or on cars, and is +seldom shipped except in sacks. Wheat, unless it needs to be cleaned or +graded, is kept in the sack in which it leaves the home field. To watch +the grain being loaded in the ship is a sight well worth seeing. If the +wharf, or car, or warehouse where it lies is higher than the deck of the +vessel on which it is to be shipped, the sacks are placed on an inclined +chute down which they descend to the hold of the ship. If the deck of +the vessel is the higher, sometimes an endless belt, run by electricity, +is placed in a chute, the sacks are laid on the belt, and so carried to +their resting place. + +In loading wheat for export, a number of sacks in each row are bled; +that is, a slit is made in the sack which allows a small quantity of +grain to escape and fill the spaces round the corners and sides of the +sack, thus making a compact cargo which is not liable to shift. At Port +Costa is located a grader, where, when necessary wheat can be cleaned +and graded; here also are many large warehouses. + +For a long time about two thirds of the wheat crop of the state was +sent to Ireland, but now our new lands in the Pacific take much of +it. California has an immense trade in wheat that has been ground into +flour. Over six million dollars' worth of flour is shipped each year, +nearly three fourths of it going to China, Japan, and the islands of the +Pacific. + +It is believed by scientific agriculturists that better results will be +obtained in wheat raising as smaller ranches become the rule, where the +farmer can give more attention to the needs of the grain, adding what +is necessary to the soil. Often the alternation of crops increases the +yield--wheat doing much better if planted where beans or other legumes +were raised the year before. Where the grain fields are not so large, +irrigation can be depended upon instead of the rainfall, and crops then +are sure and more even in quantity. + +Barley is the grain next in importance to wheat in California. It can +be raised where wheat can not, as it needs less moisture for its +development; and if the rains fail, it can be cut for hay which always +brings a good price. Barley hay, with the heads on, is in California the +chief food of horses, and in many cases of cattle. A horse for ordinary +work fed on barley hay gets all the grain necessary. If on account +of heavier work, stronger food is required, rolled barley is given in +addition. A large quantity of the better graded barley grain raised in +the state is used by the brewers for malt. + +Corn does not do so well through the state in general, but in some +locations it is justly claimed that a man can ride on horseback down +the rows of corn without being seen over the tops. This, too, the padres +brought into the state. The tortilla, the common food of the Spanish +settlers, was made of coarse-ground or pounded corn. + +Alfalfa, the wonderful forage plant of dry regions of the West, is a +member of the clover family. Throughout the southern and middle portion +of California are large ranches devoted to its culture for hay. It +is also raised extensively for green feed for horses and cattle. It +produces from three to six crops a year according to location and care +given it, and is treated for the market much the same as barley hay, +except that it is generally made into smaller bales. Alfalfa is +raised by irrigation, the best method being from flumes opening into +indentations, not so deep as furrows, from which the water spreads, +flooding the whole surface. + +Many a California young man from high school gets his first taste of +work away from home in the harvest fields. Generally this is a good +experience for him. He receives some pretty hard knocks, and sees the +rough side of life, but if he has self-control and good principles, he +will be the better for the venture, returning more manly, earnest, and +self-reliant. + + + +Chapter XIV + +The Golden Apples of the Hesperides + + + +The orange, like many other of California's most valuable products, +was brought into the country by the patient, far-seeing padres. Orange, +lemon, and citron, those three gay cousins of royal blood, traveled +together, and soon were to be found in many of the mission gardens. The +most extensive of that early planting was an orchard at San Gabriel, +set out by Padre Sanchez in 1804. In the height of its prosperity, +this mission is recorded as having two thousand three hundred and +thirty-three fruit trees, a large proportion of which were orange +trees. San Fernando had sixteen hundred trees. San Diego had its orange +orchard: how many trees is not recorded, but its olive grove numbered +five hundred and seventeen flourishing trees. Santa Inez had nearly a +thousand trees. As early as 1800 Santa Barbara and San Buenaventura also +had valuable orchards. + +Outside the missions the first orange trees in any number were planted +in 1834, the famous Wolfskill grove in 1841. By 1862 there were about +twenty-five thousand trees of this variety in the state, and two thirds +of these belonged to Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. A little later several +large orchards were planted in the region around the Mission San +Gabriel. In Riverside, often called the mother of orange culture in the +state, the first seeds were planted in 1870, the first trees from these +seeds in 1873, and from that period is dated the beginning of extensive +planting. This was largely the work of colonists. About the time the +orchards came into bearing, the Southern Pacific and the Santa Fe +Overland were completed, so that an Eastern market was gained for the +fruit, with the result that the new industry fairly bounded forward. So +much was sometimes made from an acre of trees that it seemed as though +people could not get land and plant fast enough. Occasionally an income +was reported of three thousand dollars from an acre, and eight hundred +to one thousand dollars per acre was not an uncommon crop. + +Although at this time there were a few orange trees in the middle and +northern parts of the state, for many years it was supposed that only +the southern country could raise this fruit suitable for the market, but +to-day people know better. Excellent oranges are grown as far north as +Shasta, and Butte County, which leads in the northern orange culture, +has a number of large and valuable orchards. From Tulare County and +other parts of the valley of the San Joaquin, choice fruit is being +shipped to the markets of the East. From San Diego all the way up +the state one may find trees of the citrus family flourishing; still, +whether north or south, in planting an orange orchard, the greatest care +has to be taken in the choice of location. Jack Frost is the enemy to be +avoided, and generally in any strip of country the lower lands are the +ones he visits first. So the highlands are preferred, and even here the +currents of air must be studied. A strong, uninterrupted, downward sweep +of air from the snowcovered mountains will often, at night, drive away +the needed warmth gathered during the day, so that land protected by +some mountain spur which makes an eddy in the current is the best for +this heat-loving fruit. + +There are several popular varieties of the orange. The Valencia late is +being planted by many in preference to others because, besides being a +fine fruit, it keeps well, ripening when the days begin to be long +and hot, and is therefore doubly welcome. The sweet orange from the +Mediterranean country, and the St. Michael, with its paper rind, are +also favorites, as are the delicious little Mandarin and Tangerine +varieties, with their thin skin and high flavor; but the king of them +all is the Washington navel, which has gained for the state its high +position as an orange-raising territory. This is not a new variety, +though many may believe it so. A book published in Rome over three +hundred years ago gives an interesting description and pictures of this +and other kinds of oranges and the way they should be raised. The title +of this rare old volume is "Hesperides, or about the Golden Apples, +their Culture and Use." Among its many fine illustrations is one of +Hercules receiving the golden apples. Another shows the bringing of the +fruit to Italy by a body of nymphs and goddesses in Neptune's car. Mr. +Charles F. Lummis has translated portions of the book in the California +magazine Out West. + +On its travels the navel orange finally reached Bahia, Brazil, and +there, sometime during the Civil War in the United States, a lady +who, it is said, was the wife of the American consul, discovered the +deliciousness of this fruit. So pleased was she that she determined to +share her enjoyment with others; so upon her return to her own country, +she described this orange to Mr. Saunders, head of the government's +experimental farm at Washington. He became interested in the subject, +sent to Bahia, and had twelve navel trees propagated by budding. These +were shipped to Washington, where they arrived safely, and were placed +in the orangery there. They all grew, and from them a large number of +trees were budded. + +Still they had not reached California. Bringing them to the Pacific +coast was also the work of a woman. Mrs. Tibbetts, wife of a fruit +grower of Riverside, was visiting in Washington and to her Mr. Saunders +presented two navel orange trees, which she brought home with her. They +were planted beside her doorstep in Riverside. The trees grew rapidly, +and when they bore fruit it did not take the California orange growers +long to discover that here they had a treasure of more value than the +largest nugget of gold ever found in the state. + +It was at a citrus fair in Riverside in 1879 that this golden king first +appeared before the world. Then from all over southern California came +orange men to get buds from these trees. Back home they went with the +precious bits of life. Acres of seedling oranges were quickly shorn of +their green crowns. Cut, cut, went knife and shears till only the stock +was left, and then into a carefully made slit in the bark was placed the +navel bud. It soon sprouted, and everywhere one could see the stranger +growing sturdily on its adopted stem. Thousands of buds were sold from +the two parent trees until there were hundreds of thousands of their +beautiful children growing all over the state, giving golden harvests. + +If we owe to two ladies the success of orange culture in California, it +was a third who saved the industry when ruin threatened it. For a +while all went merrily with the orange grower; then in some way, +from Australia, there came into the country an insect pest called the +cushiony scale, which settled on the orange trees and seemed likely to +destroy them. "What can be done to save our trees?" was the cry from +the people of the southland. What they did was to bring from Australia +a different visitor, the dainty bug called the ladybird. She was eagerly +welcomed. No one dreamed of bidding her, in the words of the old nursery +rhyme, "fly away home." She was carried to the diseased orchards, where +she settled on the scale, and as it was her favorite food, she soon +had the trees clean again. In time other pests came to trouble vine +and fruit growers, but it is interesting to know that scientists +nearly always succeeded in finding some insect enemy of the troublesome +visitor, which would help the horticulturist out of his difficulties. + +In the business of orange-growing, success is due in a large measure to +care in the picking, packing, and shipping of the fruit--care even +in those little things that seem almost of no consequence. The more +particular Californians are to ship only the best fruit in the best +condition and properly packed, the higher prices will the fruit bring, +the higher reputation the state gain. + +The lemon industry comes closely second to the orange. This fruit does +not need so much heat as does the orange, but neither can it stand +so much cold. It needs more water, but it bears more fruit and can be +marketed the year round. The lemons not sold as fresh fruit are made +to yield such products as citric acid, oil of lemon, from which cooking +essences are made, and candied lemon peel. In this latter branch of the +trade, however, the citron is more generally used, though it is not of +so delicate a flavor. + +The pomelo, or grape fruit, is fast gaining in favor and increasing in +value. + +To the stranger who visits California the orange is the most interesting +of trees. To pick an orange with her own hands, and to pin on her breast +a bunch of the fragrant blossoms, is to an Eastern woman one of the most +pleasant experiences of her visit to the Golden State. + +In the history of the growth of southern California, and especially of +its orange culture, the use of water on the soil plays a prominent part. +It was the discovery that the most sandy and unpromising-looking land +became a miracle of fertility when subjected to the irrigating stream, +that caused the wonderful prosperity of the dry portions of the state. + +Irrigation, which means the turning of water from a well, spring, or +stream, upon land to promote the growth of plant life, has been used by +mankind for thousands of years. In Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico, +there are remains of irrigation canals made by people who lived so long +ago that we know nothing of their history. + +The padres who settled California were adepts in this science. In +founding a mission they always chose its site near some stream, the +water of which could be turned upon the cultivated fields; and the dams, +canals, and reservoirs which the padres constructed were so well built +that many of them have lasted until the present time. + +It will seem strange to many people to learn that the highest-priced, +most fertile farm lands in the United States are not to be found in the +rich valleys of the Eastern states or the prairies of the middle West, +but in the dry region between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. +Colorado, which belongs to the land of little rain, has in proportion to +its size the richest mines of any state in the Union, yet the product of +its farms, all irrigated, equals the output of its mineral wealth. + +All the flourishing towns of southern California depend for their +wonderful prosperity upon the fertility of the irrigated country +surrounding them. + +Trees and plants require water for their growth, but they do not +all need it in like quantity, nor at the same time; therefore, the +scientific farmer on arid lands, where there is an abundance of water +for irrigation, has an immense advantage over his Eastern brother who +depends for water upon the rainfall alone. + +While the valuable raisin crop of the Californian is drying in the sun +and the slightest shower would damage, or perhaps ruin it, just beyond +lies the orange orchard, the trees of which are suffering for water. +The fruit, the size of a large walnut, is still hard and green, and must +have an abundance of the life-giving liquid if it is to develop into the +rich yellow orange, filled with delicious juice, which adorns the New +Year's market. How would our ranchman prosper if he depended upon rain? +As it is, he furrows his orchard from its highest to its lowest level; +then into the flume which runs parallel with the highest boundary of +the grove he turns the water from pipe or reservoir, and opening the +numerous little slide-doors or sluice-gates of the flume, soon has the +satisfaction of seeing each furrow the bed of a running stream, the +water of which sinks slowly, steadily, down to the roots of the thirsty +trees. After the water has been flowing in this manner for some hours, +it is shut off, for it has done enough work. In a day or two the +ranchman runs the cultivator over the ground of the orchard, leaving the +soil fine and crumbly and the trees in perfect condition for another six +or eight weeks of growth. + +The first attempts of the American immigrant at irrigation were very +simple--just the making of a furrow turning the water of a stream upon +his land. Then, as he desired to cultivate more land and raise larger +crops, his ditches had to be longer, often having branches. Soon +neighbors came in and settled above and below him. They too used of +the stream; there was no law to control selfishness, so there were +disagreements and bitter quarrels over the water. Lawsuits followed and +sometimes even fighting and murders. The remedy for this state of things +was found to be in a company ditch, flume, or reservoir, with the use of +water controlled by fixed laws. + +There are some crops, notably grapes, which are grown without +irrigation. The grapevine, instead of being treated as a climber, is +each year trimmed back to the main stem, which thus becomes a strong +woody stalk, often a foot or more in circumference, quite capable of +withstanding the heat and dryness of the atmosphere and of drawing from +the soil all the nourishment needed for the fruit. + +Wheat, barley, and oats, both as grain and as hay, are largely raised +without irrigation. Olives, and many deciduous trees, by careful +cultivation may flourish without water other than the rainfall; yet +notwithstanding this, for a home in southern California, land without a +good water-right is of little value. + +The wealth of the region is in a great measure in its expensive water +system, which, by means of reservoirs, dams, ditches, flumes, and +pipes, gathers the water from the mountain streams and conveys it to the +thirsty land below. + + + +Chapter XV + +California's other Contributions to the World's Bill of Fare + + + +By 1874 people in the Eastern states had begun to talk of California +canned fruits. Apricots and the large white grape found ready sale, but +California raisins, though on the market, were not in demand. That line +from the old game "Malaga raisins are very fine raisins and figs from +Smyrna are better," represented the idea of the public; and figs, +raisins, and prunes eaten in the United States all came from abroad. But +how is it to-day? + +Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners of our Eastern friends owe much to +California. She sends the seedless raisins, candied orange and lemon +peel, the citron and beet sugar for the mince pies and plum puddings. +Her cold-storage cars carry to the winter-bound states the delicious +white celery of the peat lands, snow-white heads of cauliflower, crisp +string beans, sweet young peas, green squash, cucumbers, and ripe +tomatoes. For the salads are her olives and fresh lettuce dressed with +the golden olive oil of the Golden State. Of ripe fruits, she sends +pears, grapes, oranges, pomegranates. For desserts, she supplies great +clusters of rich sugary raisins, creamy figs, stuffed prunes, and +soft-shelled almonds and walnuts. All these and other delicacies +California gives toward the holiday making in the East. + +But it is not only to the homes of the wealthy that she carries good +cheer; to people who have very little money to spend, and those who +are far away from civilization, as soldiers, surveyors, woodmen, and +road-builders, California's products go to help make palatable fare. +To these her canned meats, fish, and vegetables, and canned and dried +fruits, are very welcome. + +The canneries and fruit-packing establishments of the state bring in +many millions of dollars each year and give employment to a host of +people, a large number of whom are women and young girls. + +Most of the fruits California now raises came into the country with +the padres. Captain Vancouver tells us that he found at the Santa Clara +mission, at the time of his visit in 1792, a fine orchard consisting +of apples, pears, peaches, plums, apricots; and at San Buenaventura all +these with the addition of oranges, grapes, and pomegranates. Alfred +Robinson describes the orchards and vineyards of San Gabriel mission as +very extensive. Wine and brandy were made at most of the missions, San +Fernando being especially noted for its brandy. Guadalupe Vallejo tells +of bananas plantains, sugar cane, citrons, and date palms growing at +the southern missions. Palm trees were planted "for their fruit, for the +honor of St. Francis, and for use on Palm Sunday." + +Not only did the padres enjoy fresh fruits from their gardens, but +raisins were dried from the grapes, citron, orange, and lemon peel were +candied, and much fruit was preserved. It is not recorded that they had +pumpkin pie in those days, but a small, fine-grained pumpkin was raised +extensively for preserves. It is still a favorite dainty among the +native Californians, and no Spanish dinner is complete without this +dulce, as it is called. Spanish-American housewives excel their American +sisters in the art of preserving. Pumpkin, peach, pear, fig, are all +treated in the same manner, being first soaked in lye, then thoroughly +washed and scalded in abundance of fresh water, and then cooked in a +very heavy sirup. The result of this treatment is that the outside +of the fruit is crisp and brittle, while the inside is creamy and +delicious. + +The first of California's dried fruits to come before the public was the +raisin. Raisins are merely the proper variety of grapes suitably dried. +Some think that they are dipped in sugar, but this is not the fact. The +only sugar is that contained in the juice of the grape, which should +be about one fourth sugar. The only raisin grape for general use is the +greenish variety called the Muscat. The rich purple or chocolate color +of the raisin of the market is caused by the action of the sun while +the raisin is being cured. If dried in the shade the fruit has a sickly +greenish hue. The seedless Sultana is a small grape, fast coming into +favor for a cooking raisin. + +The proper planting of a raisin vineyard requires a large amount of care +and labor. But the summer is one long holiday, as there is little to do +to the vines from early May until August. Then comes picking time. From +all the country round gather men and women, boys and girls, and the work +begins. + +To be a successful raisin grower and packer, one must take care in +all little things. The workman who neglects to cut from the branch the +imperfect or bad grapes, or who lays the fruit in the trays so that +it will be in heaps or overlapped, is apt to be soon discharged. After +about a week of exposure to the sun and air, the grapes are turned by +placing an empty tray over a full one, and reversing the positions. Then +after a few days longer in the sun, the fruit goes to the sweat-box, a +hundred pounds to the box, and is placed in a room in the packing house, +where it lies about ten days. The bunches go into this room unequally +dried, with still a look and taste of grape about them, but after this +sweating process they come out uniform in appearance, rich, sugary, +tempting,--the raisins of commerce, with little suggestion of the fruit +from which they came. Then they are boxed. + +There are generally three grades: very choice clusters, ordinary and +imperfect bunches, and loose raisins. Raisins of the third class are +sent to the stemmer and a large proportion of them then go to the +seeder. Seeding raisins for mother and grandmother at holiday times +used to be the duty and pleasure of the older boys and girls of the +household. But seeding is now done by machinery. A machine will seed on +an average ten tons daily. Before entering the seeder the raisins are +subjected to a thorough brushing, by which every particle of dust is +removed. They are then run through rubber rollers which flatten the +fruit and press the seeds to the surface; then through another pair +of rollers, with wire teeth which catch and hold the seeds while the +raisins pass on down a long chute to the packing room, where women and +girls box them for market. + +With all fruits the drying process is much the same, though peaches, +apples, and pears are first peeled. California figs, when dried, +sell well. This is a fruit which is growing in favor, whether fresh, +preserved, or dried. Fruit canning is an interesting process. The fruit +is not boiled in sirup and then placed in cans, as is frequently the +custom in home preserving, but when peeled it is placed directly in the +cans, in which it receives all its cooking and in which it is finally +marketed. + +The raising of beets and the converting of them into sugar form an +industry which is growing rapidly, and is of the utmost importance to +the people of the Pacific slope. + +The canning of fresh vegetables is a new industry which is bringing into +the state a steady stream of money, and in addition is proving a double +blessing to thousands of people, both those who gain from it their +living, and those who could not otherwise have vegetables for food. A +sailor said recently that if he could not be a sailor he would do the +next best thing--can vegetables for other sailors. When Galvez +received the order from the king of Spain to found settlements in +Upper California, one of the chief reasons for so doing was that fresh +vegetables might be raised for the sailors engaged in the Philippine +trade. To-day the Philippines use a large portion of California's canned +goods. + +In the southern counties olive orchards are being extensively planted. +Near San Fernando is the largest in the world, covering thirteen hundred +acres. Doctors have said that a liberal use of California olive oil will +do much to promote the good health of mankind, and it is thought by many +that the manufacture of olive oil will be one of the greatest industries +the state has known. + +Nut raising is keeping pace with fruit in importance. To an Eastern +person it seems strange to see nut-bearing trees cultivated in orchards; +though profitable, this method does away with the pleasures of nutting +parties. + +California's crystallized fruits are in constant demand, especially for +the Christmas trade. This crystallizing is a process in which the juice +is extracted and replaced with sugar sirup, which hardens and preserves +the fruit from decay while still keeping the shape. + +One sometimes reads the saying, "Fresno for raisins, Santa Clara for +cherries and prunes, and the northern counties and mountain-ranches for +apples." But in fact, California's fruit industries are well distributed +over the state, and the really excellent work which is being done in all +sections will still advance as the people learn more of the necessary +details and methods. + +In spite of mistakes and experiments the steady progress on the +California ranches is being recognized. Of one of our leading fruit +growers, Mr. Eliwood Cooper of Santa Barbara, the Marquis of Lorne +writes in the Youth's Companion: "He has shown that California can +produce better olive oil than France, Spain, or Italy, and English +walnuts and European almonds in crops of which the old country hardly +even dreams." + +A history of California's products would be incomplete without a +reference to him who is called the "Wonder Worker of Santa Rosa." +"Magician! Conjurer!" are terms frequently applied to Mr. Luther +Burbank, the man who is acknowledged by the scientists of the world to +have done more with fruits and flowers than any other man. Mr. Burbank +waves his wand, and the native poppy turns to deepest crimson, the white +of the calla lily becomes a gorgeous yellow, rose and blackberry lose +their thorns, the cactus its spines. The meat of the walnut and almond +become richer in quality, while their shells diminish to the thinness of +a knife blade. + +Yet in these seeming miracles there is nothing of "black art" or sleight +of hand. The experiments of this wonderful man, the surprising results +he gains, are obtained, first by a close study of the laws of nature, +then, where he desires change and improvement, by assisting her process, +often through years of closest application and unceasing toil. He is a +man of whom it is truthfully said, "He has led a life of hardships, +has sacrificed self at every point, that he might glorify and make more +beautiful the world around him." Any boy or girl who knows something +of how plants grow and reproduce themselves will find great pleasure in +following Mr. Burbank's simple methods. + +It is only recently that his countrymen have begun to appreciate the +work of this great naturalist. A short time ago a resident of Berkeley, +a student and book-lover, one who knew Mr. Burbank but had given little +attention to his productions, was in Paris. While there he had the good +fortune to be present at a lecture delivered before a gathering of the +most eminent scientists of Europe. In the course of his address the +speaker had occasion to mention the name of Luther Burbank. Instantly +every man in the audience arose and stood a moment in silence, giving to +the simple mention of Mr. Burbank's name the respect usually paid to the +presence of royalty. It is a name now known in all the languages of the +civilized world, and numbers of the wisest of the world's citizens cross +the ocean solely to visit the busy plant-grower of Santa Rosa. + +Luther Burbank was born in Worcester, Massachusetts, in 1849, and while +yet a lad his strongest desire was to produce new plants better than +the old ones. His first experiment was with a vegetable. For the sake +of getting seed, he planted some Early Rose potatoes in his mother's +garden. In the whole patch only one seed-ball developed, and this he +watched with constant care. Great was his disappointment, therefore, +when one morning, just as it was ready to be picked, he found that it +had disappeared. A careful search failed to recover the missing ball, +but as he thought the matter over, while at work, it struck Luther that +perhaps a dog had knocked it off in bounding through the garden. Looking +more carefully for it, he found the ball twenty feet away from the vine +on which it had hung. In it were twenty-three small, well-developed +seeds. These he planted with great care, and from one of them came +the first Burbank potatoes. The wealth of the country was materially +increased by this discovery; the wealth of the boy only to the amount of +one hundred and twenty-five dollars, which he used in attending a better +school than he had before been able to enjoy. + +In 1875 Mr. Burbank, to secure, as he said, "a climate which should be +an ally and not an enemy to his work," moved to Santa Rosa, California. +For ten years of poverty and severe toil he was engaged, for the sake +of a livelihood, in the nursery business, making, in the meantime, such +experiments as he had time for. During the next twenty years, +however, Mr. Burbank was able to give nearly his whole time to his +nature-studies. His energy is tireless, and his aim is to supply to +humanity something for beauty, sustenance, or commerce better than it +has possessed. + +Perhaps among all his productions the greatest good to the world will +arise from the spineless cactus. The scourge of the American desert is +the cactus, commonly known as the prickly pear, the whole surface of +which is covered with fine, needlelike spines, while its leaves are +filled with a woody fiber most hurtful to animal life. When eaten by +hunger-crazed cattle it causes death. After years of labor Mr. Burbank +has succeeded in developing from this most unpromising of plants a +perfected cactus which is truly a storehouse of food for man and beast. +Spines and woody fiber have disappeared, leaving juicy, pear-shaped +leaves, weighing often twenty-five or fifty pounds, which, when cooked +in sirup, make a delicious preserve, and in their natural state furnish +a nourishing, thirst-quenching food for domestic animals. The fruit +of this immense plant is aromatic and delicate, and its seeds are at +present worth far more than their weight in gold, since from them are +to spring thousands of plants by means of which it is believed the +uninhabitable portions of the desert may be made to support numberless +herds of cattle. + +Another of Mr. Burbank's achievements is the evergreen crimson rhubarb, +which is not only far less acid than the old variety, but richer in +flavor and a giant in size. + +The pomato, a tomato grown on a potato plant, is most interesting. The +plant is a free bearer, having a white, succulent, delicious fruit, +admirable when cooked, used in a salad, or eaten fresh as our other +fruit. + +The experiments with prunes conducted at the Santa Rosa ranch have been +of the greatest value to the state. For forty years the prune growers of +the Pacific slope had been searching for a variety of this fruit +which would be as rich in sugar and as abundant a bearer as the little +California prune of commerce, and yet of a larger size, and earlier in +its time of ripening. Mr. Burbank with his famous sugar prune filled all +these requirements, and revolutionized the prune industry of the state. +Besides this triumph he has succeeded in obtaining a variety of this +fruit having a shell-less kernel, so that the fruit when dried much +resembles those which are artificially stuffed. + +The flowers which Mr. Burbank has evolved by his methods, and those +which he has simply enlarged and glorified, are far too numerous to be +named here. + +In 1905 a grant of ten thousand dollars a year was bestowed upon Mr. +Burbank by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, D.C., for the purpose +of assisting him in his experiments. Seldom has money been better +placed. + + + +Chapter XVI + +The Hidden Treasures of Mother Earth + + + +Thousands of years ago, before the time of which we have any history, +there were rivers in California,--rivers now dead,--whose sides were +steeper and whose channels were wider than those of the rivers in the +same part of the world to-day. Rapid streams they were, and busy, too; +washing away from the rocks along their sides the gold held there, +dropping the yellow grains down into the gravelly beds below. After +a time there came down upon these rivers a volcanic outflow; great +quantities of ashes, streams of lava and cement, burying them hundreds +of feet deep, until over them mountain ridges extended for miles and +miles. + +Other changes in the earth's surface took place, and in the course of +time our streams of to-day were formed. As they cut their way through +the mountain ranges, some of them crossed the channels of old dead +rivers, and finding the gold hidden there, carried some of it along, +rolling it over and over, mixed with sand and gravel, down into the +lower lands under the bright sunlight. Here it was found by Marshall and +the gold hunters who followed him. These were the placer mines of which +we read in Chapter VII. + +Gradually the best placer mines were taken up and the newcomers to the +gold fields traced the precious metal up the streams into the gravel +of the hillsides. Then was begun hydraulic mining, where water did the +work. In the canons great dams were constructed to catch the flow from +the melting snows of the mountains, and miles of flumes were built +to carry the water to the mining grounds. Immense pipes were laid and +altogether millions of dollars were invested in hydraulic mining. The +water coming down under heavy pressure from the mountain reservoirs +passed through giant hose which would carry a hundred miner's inches, +and, striking the mountain side with terrific force, washed away the +earth from the rocks. Down fell the sand and gravel into sluices or +boxes of running water where cleats and other arrangements caught and +held the gold, which was heavy, while the lighter mixture was carried +out into the canyon. + +The material thus dumped on the mountain side was called debris, and +to any one living in the mining region of the state that word means +trouble--means fighting, lawsuits, ruin. For the debris did not stay +up in the canyon, but was washed down into the rivers, overflowing farm +lands, spoiling crops and orchards, and making the streams shallow, +their waters muddy. So great was the destruction this process caused +that, in 1893, the Congress of the United States enacted a law which +provided for the creation of a Debris Commission to regulate the +business of hydraulic mining in California. The result of the +investigations of this commission was to put a stop to all hydraulic +mining in territory drained by the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers, or +any other territory where the use of this form of mining should injure +the river systems or lands adjacent. Thus, almost in a moment, the +important industry was stopped. + +It is estimated that over one hundred million dollars were invested +in hydraulic mining. Much of this was entirely lost, as the expensive +machinery rusted and the water system fell into ruins. It was very hard +for the miners, as well as for the commerce of the state, but the act of +the government was based upon the principle that one man's business must +not damage another man's property. Clever engineers in the pay of the +government are still trying to find some way by which the debris can +be safely disposed of in order that this valuable system may resume +operation. + +Deprived of the use of water as their agent, gold hunters next tried +mining by drifts; that is, by tunneling into the mountain's side until +the bed of a buried river is reached. These tunnels are often five +thousand to eight thousand feet long. The gold is brought out of the +ground before it is washed clean of the gravel. Sometimes it is mixed +with cement, when it has to be crushed in rollers before it can be +cleared of other material. The counties where drift mining is most in +operation are Placer, Nevada, and Sierra. + +Quartz mining is the most expensive manner of getting out gold, and a +great deal of valuable and complicated machinery has been invented for +this branch of the business. The quartz mines of California are among +the richest in the world, and some of the greatest fortunes of modern +times have been made from them. + +In a mine of this kind there is generally a shaft, or opening, +extending straight down into the earth, from which, at different levels, +passageways branch out where the veins of gold are richest. The openings +must be timbered to prevent caving in, and there must be pumps to remove +the water as well as hoisting works to take out the material. Then +on the surface, as near as possible to the mouth of the mine, must be +located the quartz mill. When possible, a tunnel is used in this mining, +which makes the handling of ore less expensive, for then there need be +no hoisting works or pumps, since the tunnel drains itself. + +Gold in quartz rock is generally in ledges or veins, one to three feet +in width. Digging it out is not very hard, save where there is not +enough room to stand upright and use the pick, or when, in a shaft deep +in the ground, the heat makes it difficult to work. A California boy at +the mines wrote recently: "Mining is not so bad; that is, if I could get +along without the occasional whack I bestow upon my left hand. Last +week I started a little tunnel and pounded my hand so that it swelled up +considerably. Drilling is not hard, and loading is a snap, but it's +all interesting work and there is the excitement of seeing what you are +going to find next." + +When the ore reaches the surface it is sent to the mill, where it is +first pulverized, then mixed with a chemical which goes about catching +up the grains of gold--arresting and holding them fast. It is quite +a long process before the gold is completely separated from all other +material and ready for shipment. Often the quartz contains other +minerals of value, the separation of which requires much work. + +There is a very rich mine in Nevada called the Comstock, which some +years ago had sunk its shafts so deep into the earth that it became +almost impossible for the miners to work on account of the great heat, +the bad air, and the quantity of water which had constantly to be +pumped out. How these troubles were remedied is the story of one of +California's greatest and best citizens. Adolph Sutro was a Prussian +by birth, and his adopted state may well be proud to claim him. He had +built a little quartz mill in Nevada, near the Comstock mine. Seeing +the suffering of the workmen in all the mines on that mountain side, he +thought of a plan for the construction of a large tunnel which was to +begin at a low level at the nearest point of the Carson River and +run deep into the mountain so that it could drain all the rich mining +section, give good ventilation for the deep underground works, and +afford a much cheaper and more convenient way of taking care of the +ore. It was to be four miles long, with branches extending from it to +different mines. Its height was to be ten feet; width, twelve, with +a drainage trench in the center to carry away the waste water to the +Carson River, and tracks on each side for the passage of mules and cars. + +At first the mine owners were pleased with the project, and Mr. Sutro +succeeded in forming a company to build the tunnel. Then he went to +Washington, where the government became so interested in his plans that +on July 25, 1866, there was passed an act of Congress granting Sutro +such privileges in regard to public lands as would safeguard his work. +About the time that the news of this action reached the West, the men +who owned the mines and had made an arrangement for the use of the +tunnel, decided that they did not want the work done; it is said, for +the reason that they found Mr. Sutro too wise and far-seeing for them +to be able to manage him. At all events, with all their wealth and power +they tried to ruin him. They said that his plans were worthless, and +any one was foolish to invest in the tunnel company. Then Mr. Sutro, +by means of lectures upon the subject, appealed to the people. In +California, Nevada, the Eastern states, and even Europe, he told what +his plans would do for the miners and the good of the country. It was +not long before he gained all the help he needed, and the great work was +begun. + +As the workmen progressed into the mountain side there were many +difficulties to overcome. Day and night without ceasing the work went +on. Laborers would faint from the combined heat and bad air, and be +carried to the outer world to be revived. Carpenters followed the +drillers, trackmen coming closely after. Loose rock, freshly blasted, +was tumbled into waiting cars and hauled away over rails laid perhaps +but half an hour before. Constantly in the front was Sutro himself, coat +flung aside, sleeves rolled up. In the midst of the flying dirt, great +heat, bad air, dripping slush, and slippery mud he worked side by side +with the grimy, half-naked miners, thus showing himself capable not +only of planning a great work, but of seeing personally that it was well +done, no matter with what sacrifice to his own ease and comfort. + +After the tunnel was completed, Mr. Sutro sold his interest in it for +several millions of dollars. How that money was expended, any visitor to +San Francisco well knows. With it were built the great Sutro baths, +with their immense tanks of pure and constantly changing, tempered ocean +water, their many dressing rooms, their grand staircases, adorned with +rare growing plants, their tiers of seats rising in rows, one above +another, with room for thousands of spectators, and their galleries of +pictures and choice works of art. Over all is a roof of steel and tinted +glass. Nowhere else in America is there so fine a bathing establishment. + +Besides this there are the lovely gardens of Sutro Heights, developed +by Mr. Sutro's money and genius from the barren sand-hills of the San +Miguel rancho. In addition to these is the choice library of about two +hundred thousand volumes, which is of great use to the people of San +Francisco. Perhaps neither San Francisco nor California has yet quite +appreciated the value of the work of Adolph Sutro. + +Since 1848 the state of California has sent to the United States Mint +over one billion dollars in gold. Of this, little Nevada County, which +seems to be worth literally her weight in gold, has sent over two +hundred and forty million. The Empire Mine is the leading producer of +California, but there are others nearly as rich. Nevada City is in the +center of this mining country. The streets are very hilly, and after +a heavy rain people may be seen searching the city gutters and +newly-formed rivulets for gold, and they are sometimes rewarded by +finding fair-sized nuggets washed down from the hills above. + +A visitor to one of the deep mines of California says:-- + +"We descended to the seven hundred foot level, where the day before a +pile of ore had been blasted down. A little piece of the quartz, crushed +in a mortar panned out four dollars in gold. I picked out one piece +of rock, not larger than a peach, and the manager, after weighing and +testing it, announced that it contained ten dollars in free gold. The +kick of a boot would reveal ore which showed glittering specks of pure +gold." + +In the estimate of many people all very valuable mines are supposed to +be of gold, but this is a mistake. While gold is king in California, +copper mining is rapidly becoming of great importance. A continuous +copper belt, the largest yet discovered in the world, exists under her +soil, and while a comparatively small depth has been so far attained, +the profit has been considerable. One of the largest quicksilver mines +in the world is at New Almaden. The value of the output of the borax +mines is over a million dollars a year. There were mined in California +in 1907 over fifty different materials, most of them at a value of +several thousand dollars a year, with some as high as a million and +over. + +The mineral product of California outranking gold in value is petroleum, +which has added greatly to the wealth of the state. Natural gas and +mineral waters are also valuable commercial products. + +To many, the most interesting class among minerals is the gems, of which +California yields a variety. The beautiful lilac stone, Kunzite, was +discovered near Pala, San Diego County. This county has also some fine +specimens of garnets, and beautiful tourmalines are being mined at a +profit. San Bernardino County yields a superior grade of turquoise +from which has been realized as much as eleven thousand dollars a year. +Chrysoprase is being mined in Tulare County, also the beautiful new +green gem something like clear jade, called Californite. Topaz, both +blue and white, is being found, and besides these, many diamonds of +good quality have been collected, principally from the gravels of the +hydraulic mines. In 1907 there was discovered in the mountains of San +Benito County a beautiful blue stone closely resembling sapphire, more +brilliant but less durable. It was named, by professors of mineralogy in +the state university, Benitite, from the place where it was discovered. + +Perhaps the most valuable of all the products of California is its water +supply, either visible as in springs and streams, or underground as in +artesian water. Of its use in irrigation, we have already spoken. In the +production of electricity it is coming to be of the greatest importance, +making possible the most stupendous works of modern times. Such is +the undertaking of the Edison Electric Company in bringing down to Los +Angeles, over many miles of the roughest country, power from the Kern +River, tapping the tumultuous stream far up in the Sierras. The taking +of the necessary machinery to those heights was in itself a wonderful +labor. The power thus created is a blessing to a wide region. + + + +Chapter XVII + +From La Escuela of Spanish California to the Schools of the Twentieth +Century + + + +In no line has California advanced so far beyond the days of the padres +as in her schools. In the early settlements there were no educated +people but the priests at the missions and the Spanish officers with +their families at the presidios. Later, clever men of good families +came into the territory, took up land, and made their homes on the +great ranchos, but among these there were few who would take the time +or trouble to teach the children; so life to the young people was a long +holiday. The sad result was that they grew up so ignorant as to astonish +the educated strangers who visited the coast. + +At the missions the padres had schools where they taught the young +Indians something of reading and writing, religious services and songs, +and the trades necessary for life. This, with their duties in the church +and the extensive building and planting of the mission settlements, +took all the time of the hard-working priests. Occasionally, an educated +woman would teach her own children and those of her relatives, but like +most attempts at home education, it was so interrupted as to amount to +little. + +In 1794 a new governor came from Spain who was so shocked at this state +of affairs that he at once ordered three schools opened. The first, +December, 1794, was held in a granary at San Jose and was in charge of a +retired sergeant of the Spanish army. The children had been so long free +from all restraint that they did not like to go to school, and their +parents did not always take the trouble to insist. There were some +reasons for this, as the masters did not know much about what they were +trying to teach, and the use of the ferule and scourge (the latter a +whip of cords tipped with iron) was frequent and cruel. There were no +books but primers, and these were hard to obtain. The writing, paper was +furnished by the military authorities and had to be returned when the +child was through with it, that it might be used in making cartridges. +These schools were for boys only, girls not being expected to learn +anything except cooking, sewing, and embroidery. + +Slowly the state of things improved, and in 1829 in the yearly report +to the Mexican government, it was stated that there were eleven primary +schools in the province with three hundred and thirty-nine boys and +girls. One of the best of these schools was that of Don Ignacio Coronel +of Los Angeles. + +In 1846 the first American school was opened at Santa Clara by Mrs. +Oliver Mann Isbell. It provided for children from about twenty emigrant +families and was held in a room of the Santa Clara mission on the great +patio. The floor was of earth, the seats boxes; an opening in the tiled +roof over the center of the room allowing the smoke to escape when, on +rainy days, a fire was built on a rude platform of stones set in the +middle of the floor. Wherever the Americans lived, they would have +schools, although their first buildings were bare and inconvenient, +with no grace or adornment either inside or out. In some out-of-the-way +places, whole terms of school were spent most happily under spreading +live oaks. + +In the making of the first constitution, educational matters were not +forgotten; one section providing that there should be a common school +system supported by money from the sale of public lands. On account +of the minerals the lands so allotted were supposed to contain, it was +believed that they would sell for such vast amounts that the state would +have money sufficient for the grandest public schools that ever existed. +In fact these lands brought in altogether, after a number of years, +less than a quarter of a million dollars. The act provided also that +the schools be kept open three months in the year. An effort was made to +extend this period to six months, but was defeated by Senator Gwin. + +Considering the state of the country when the public schools were begun, +and the short time in which they have been developed, the California +free schools are a credit to the state and to the men and women who have +helped to make them what they are. No community is so poor and remote +but that it may have its school if the inhabitants choose to organize +for the purpose. Hardly can the settler find a ranch from which his +children may not attend a district school over which floats the stars +and stripes. + +Money for educational purposes is now raised by state and county +taxes on property, this sum, in cities, being largely increased by the +addition of the city taxes. High schools have only recently been given +state aid, and that moderately; the larger ones still depending, in a +great measure, upon the special tax of the city, district, or county, +according to the class to which the school belongs. The state supports +one Polytechnic school, that at San Luis Obispo, where there are three +courses, agriculture, mechanics, and domestic science. + +About 1878, in the endeavor to teach the children of the worst parts of +San Francisco a right way of living, the free kindergartens were begun. +Perhaps their success cannot be better shown than in the fact that +in the first year of the work along "Barbary coast," one of the most +turbulent districts of the city, the Italian fruit and vegetable dealers +who lived there, brought the teachers a purse of seventy-five dollars, +because the children had been taught not to steal their fruits and +vegetables or to break their windows. The first free kindergarten was +started on Silver Street in "Tar Flats" and had for its teacher a pretty +young girl, with beautiful eyes and a mass of bronze-colored hair, whom +the ragged little urchins soon learned to adore. That little school was +the beginning of one of the best kindergarten systems in the country, +and the pretty young teacher is now Kate Douglas Wiggin, one of +America's best loved writers, the author of those delightful books, +"The Birds' Christmas Carol," "Timothy's Quest" and others equally +interesting. There have been many gifts to these kindergartens. In +memory of their only son, Mr. and Mrs. Leland Stanford gave one hundred +thousand dollars, while Mrs. Phoebe Hearst supported entirely three of +the schools. Kindergartens may now form part of the primary department +in the school system of any community so desiring, and are to be found +in most of the cities. + +Nothing in the educational work of California is of more importance than +the five normal schools, which graduate each year hundreds of teachers +thoroughly prepared in all branches for the important work of training +the children of the state. + +As the crown of the free school system, stands the state university at +Berkeley. Many an interesting story might be told of the noble men, +who as early as 1849 began their long struggle to gain for the youth of +California the chance for higher education. The Reverend Samuel Willey, +the American consul Mr. Larkin, and Mr. Sherman Day were leaders in +this enterprise. There was much against them; men's thoughts were almost +entirely given to the necessities of everyday life, and few seemed +able to see that a grand and beautiful future was coming to the new +territory. The university secured its charter in 1868, but it was not +until the adoption of the new constitution in 1879 that it was placed on +a firm basis which could not be changed by each new legislature. + +The coming of Mr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler to the presidency was one of +the best strokes of fortune the institution has ever known. Under his +management it has taken a great stride forward. In the work it does, and +the high standard it demands, it takes its place side by side with the +best universities of the older Eastern states. The work of its college +of agriculture is becoming of great service to the farmer and fruit +grower. The result of its experiments in determining the best wheat for +the soil is of very great importance to the grain industry of the state. + +Connected with the university are: the Lick Observatory on Mount +Hamilton; the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, the Hastings College +of Law, and Colleges of Medicine, Dentistry, and Pharmacy, in San +Francisco; and an admirable University Extension Course which offers its +advantages to the people of any locality throughout the state who may +desire its help. + +One of the most practical and important associations in the state is +the Farmer's Institute, which, under direction and control of the +university, holds a three days' meeting once a month in each locality +throughout the state. Also, once a year, an institute of a week's +duration is held at Berkeley, where eminent scientists give their +services, and the results are most helpful. + +The university has received many gifts from distinguished citizens. Mrs. +Phoebe Hearst has devoted much of her time and a large amount of her +money to its improvement, and plans are under way to make it the most +finished and beautiful educational institution ever owned by any state +or country. + +Barely one hour's ride from San Francisco south, lies the Leland +Stanford Junior University, which at the time of its foundation, in +1885, was the greatest gift ever bestowed upon humanity by any one +person. In this noble movement Mr. and Mrs. Stanford were as one. Their +only son died in 1884, and the university is a memorial of him, a grand +example of the way in which those who are dead may yet live, through the +good done in their names. Although entirely a private benefaction, its +doors are open to students absolutely free of all tuition charges. + +This university started with a large endowment, but after the death of +Mr. Stanford, a lawsuit with the United States, and a shrinkage in the +value of the properties it owned, ran the finances so low that for a +short time it was found necessary to charge a small entrance fee. +Even then, the college was kept open only through the economy and +self-sacrifice of Mrs. Stanford and the members of the faculty, who +stood by the institution with noble unselfishness. By the year 1906 +the financial condition had become satisfactory and the attendance had +materially increased. Two handsome new buildings, one for the library +and the other for the gymnasium, were about completed when, on April +18, an earthquake, the most destructive ever experienced on the Pacific +coast, shook all the region around San Francisco Bay. Stanford suffered +severely: the two new buildings were ruined; so, too, was the museum and +a portion of the chemistry building. Both the noble arch and the +mosaics in the front of the memorial chapel were destroyed. Beyond +this, comparatively little damage was done to the college buildings. The +graduating exercises were postponed until the fall term; otherwise the +disaster did not interfere seriously with the routine of study, neither +did it affect the attendance in 1906-7, which was unusually large. +In the fall of 1907 President Jordan stated that he was empowered +to announce that Thomas Weldon Stanford, brother of Senator Leland +Stanford, had decided to give the university his own large fortune of +several millions. + +It is generally recognized that the university owes a great part of its +present success to the splendid talents and faithfulness of President +Jordan, who has given the hardest labor of the best years of his busy +life to helping it onward and upward. Its educational work is thorough, +and its requirements are being steadily raised. It stands for the +highest education that is possible. Addition is constantly being made to +its group of noble buildings. Beautiful Stanford is the sparkling jewel +in California's diadem. + +Not far from the University of California in the suburbs of Oakland +is situated Mills College, which for many years was the only advanced +school for girls of which the state could boast. This institution had +its beginning as a seminary in Benicia, but was moved to its present +situation in 1871. In 1885 it became a college with a state charter. In +plan of studies and high Christian aim, it resembles Mount Holyoke, from +which many of its leading instructors have been graduated. + +There is no place here to speak of all the leading private schools of +the state. Throop Polytechnic in Pasadena, the Thatcher School in the +valley of the Ojai, and Belmont Military Academy are among the best. A +word, however, must be said in tribute to Santa Clara College, without +which the California youth of from twenty to forty years ago would have +been lacking in that higher education which stands for so much in +the making of a state. Incorporated in 1851, it was opened with funds +amounting to but one hundred and fifty dollars, yet it grew steadily. +With a clever Jesuit faculty, this college has done admirable work of so +thorough a character as to win the praise of all those who have come +in contact with its results. From it have been graduated such men as +Stephen M. White, Reginaldo del Valle, and many other of our leading +professional and business men. + + + +Chapter XVIII + +Statistics + + + +The state of California lies between the parallels 32 and 42 north +latitude, extending over a space represented on the eastern coast by the +country between Edisto Inlet, South Carolina, and the northern point of +Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Its northern third lies between 120 and 124 +26' west longitude. From Cape Mendocino, its most westerly point, the +coast trends southeastward to San Diego Bay. The total coast line on the +Pacific is 1200 miles. + +The state's greatest width is 235 miles, which is between Point +Conception and the northern end of the Amaragosa Range on the Nevada +line. It is narrowest between Golden Gate and the southern end of Lake +Tahoe. Its area is 158,297 sq. miles, second only to Texas of all the +states. + +The population of California, according to the United States census +of 1920, is 3,426,861, which has since been greatly increased. The +following table shows the counties of the State:-- + + + + +Counties of California + + Area Population Valuation + Name Origin and Meaning of Name + Sq. Mi. 1920 1910 of Property County Seat + + Alameda Sp., Shaded promenade + 764 344,127 246,131 128,681,766 Oakland + Alpine + 710 243 309 422,063 Markleeville + Amador Sp., Sweetheart + 632 7,793 9,086 4,918,908 Jackson + Butte Fr., Rounded, detached hill + 1,660 30,030 27,301 16,057,766 Oroville + Calaveras Sp., Skul's (from Indian battle ground) + 1,080 6,183 9,171 6,177,285 San Andreas + Colusa Ind. + 1,088 9,290 7,732 12,188,096 Colusa + Contra Costa Sp., Opposite coast + 728 53,889 31,674 21,753,956 Martinez + Del Norte Sp., Of the North + 992 2,759 2,417 2,882,445 Crescent City + Eldorado Sp., The gilded (name given to fabled land of gold) + 1,796 6,426 7,492 4,668,840 Placerville + Fresno Sp., Ash tree + 6,152 128,779 75,657 34,302,205 Fresno + Glenn + 1,270 11,853 7,172 10,645,524 Willow + Humboldt (named for Baron von Humboldt) + 3,496 37,413 33,857 24,911,492 Eureka + Imperial + 4,200 43,383 13,591 El Centro + Inyo + 10,294 7,031 6,974 2,316,319 Independence + Kern + 8,050 54,843 37,715 24,050,871 Bakersfield + Kings + 1,176 22,032 16,230 7,883,009 Hanford + Lake + 1,328 5,402 5,526 3,258,020 Lakeport + Lassen + 4,520 8,507 4,802 4,590,748 Susanville + Los Angeles Sp., The angels + 4,200 936,438 504,132 169,268,166 Los Angeles + Madera Sp., Timber + 2,062 12,203 8,368 6,732,495 Madera + Marin Ind. + 549 27,342 25,114 14,489,582 San Rafael + Mariposa Sp., Butterfly + 1,510 2,775 3,956 2,270,246 Mariposa + Mendocino Sp., (from Mendoza, viceroy of Mexico) + 3,626 24,116 23,929 13,131,995 Ukiah + Merced Sp., Mercy + 1,932 24,579 15,148 14,877,086 Merced + Modoc Ind. + 3,741 5,425 6,191 4,076,680 Alturas + Mono Sp., Monkey, or pretty + 3,020 960 2,042 1,151,109 Bridgeport + Monterey Sp., King's forest + 3,340 27,980 24,146 18,962,554 Salinas + Napa Ind. + 780 20,678 19,800 13,840,291 Napa + Nevada Sp., Heavy fall of snow + 972 10,850 14,955 7,203,349 Nevada City + Orange (named for its chief product) + 750 61,375 34,436 13,812 Santa Ana + Placer Sp., Loose (from placer mines) + 1,365 18,584 18,237 9,677,724 Auburn + Plumas Sp., Feathers + 2,694 5,681 5,259 2,792,091 Quincy + Riverside + 7,323 50,297 34,696 16,373,296 Riverside + Sacramento Sp., The Sacrament + 1,000 90,978 67,806 41,333,337 Sacramento + San Benito Sp., St. Benedict + 1,388 8,995 8,041 6,499,068 Hollister + San Bernardino Sp., St. Bernard + 19,947 73,401 56,706 21,392,228 San Bernardino + San Diego Sp., St. James + 4,278 112,248 61,665 20,807,594 San Diego + San Francisco Sp., St. Francis (of Assisi) + 47 506,676 416,912 564,070,301 San Francisco + San Joaquin Sp., name of a saint + 1,396 79,905 50,732 34,740,353 Stockton + San Luis Obispo Sp., St. Louis the Bishop + 3,310 21,893 19,383 13,680,235 San Luis Obispo + San Mateo Sp., St. Matthew + 434 36,781 26,585 18,999,564 Redwood City + Santa Barbara Sp., St. Barbara + 2,632 41,097 27,738 18,849,976 Santa Barbara + Santa Clara Sp., name of a saint + 1,286 100,588 83,539 61,390,817 San Jose + Santa Cruz Sp., Holy Cross + 424 26,269 26,240 12,560,071 Santa Cruz + Shasta Fr., Chaste, pure + 3,876 13,311 18,920 10,902,036 Redding + Sierra Sp., Sawtoothed Ridge + 960 1,783 4,098 1,844,560 Downieville + Siskiyou + 5,991 13,545 18,801 10,560,650 Treks + Solano Sp., name of a mission + 900 40,602 27,559 20,195,481 Fairfield + Sonoma Ind., Valley of the Moon + 1,620 51,990 48,394 30,380,419 Santa Rosa + Stanislaus + 1,456 43,557 22,522 12,834,108 Modesto + Sutter (named for J. A. Sutter) + 622 10,115 6,328 6,621,047 Yuba City + Tehama + 3,008 12,882 11,401 11,674,562 Red Bluff + Trinity + 3,282 2,552 3,301 1,651,362 Weaverville + Tulare Sp., Reed-covered + 4,952 59,032 35,440 17,447,042 Visalia + Tuolumne Ind., Stone wigwams + 2,208 7,768 9,979 7,089,725 Sonora + Ventura Sp. + 1,722 28,724 18,347 11,171,219 Ventura + Yolo Ind., Rushes + 996 17,105 13,926 17,640,436 Woodland + Yuba Sp., Uba, wild grapes + 636 10,375 10,042 5,898,350 Marysville + + + +List of Governors + + + + Gaspar de Portola, April, 1769 + Pedro Fages, July, 1770 + Fernando Rivera y Moncada, May 25, 1774 + Felipe de Neve, Feb. 3, 1777 + Pedro Fages, Sept. 1O, 1782 + Jose Romeu, April 16, 1791 + Jose Arrillaga, April 9, 1792 + Diego de Borica, May 14, 1794 + Jose Arrillaga, Jan. 16, 1800 + Jose Arguello, July 24, 1814 + Pablo de Sola, March 31, 1815 + + California became province of the Mexican Empire, April 11, 1822 + + Luis Arguello, Nov. 10, 1822, First native Governor. + + March 26, 1825, California became province of Mexican Republic. + + Jose Maria Echeandia, Nov. 8, 1825 + Manuel Victoria, Jan. 31, 1831 + Jose Maria Echeandia, Dec. 6, 1831 + Jose Figueroa, Jan. 15, 1833 + Jose Castro, Sept. 29, 1835 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Jan. 2, 1836 + Mariano Chico, May 3, 1836 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Sept. 6, 1836 + Jose Castro, Nov. 5, 1836 + Juan B. Alvarado, Dec. 7, 1836 + Manuel Micheltorena, Dec. 31, 1842 + Pio Pico, Feb. 22, 1845, to Aug. 10, 1846, end of Mexican rule. + + The following were Governors under Military Rule, U.S.A. + + John D. Sloat, July 7, 1846 + Robert F. Stockton, July 29, 1846 + John C. Fremont, Military Governor, Jan. 19, 1847, for 50 days + Stephen W. Kearny, Military Governor, March to May 31, 1847 + R. B. Mason, Military Governor, May 31, 1847 + Persifer F. Smith, Military Governor, Feb. 28, 1849 + Bennet Riley, April 12, 1849 + + + + Peter H. Burnett, Dec. 20, 1849, First State Governor, Democratic, + received 6716 votes, total vote, 12,064. + John McDougall, Lieutenant Governor, became Governor Jan. 9, 1851, + Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 8, 1852, Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 7, 1854, Democrat + John Neely Johnson, Jan. 9, 1856, American Party + John B. Weller, Jan. 8, 1858, Democrat + Milton S. Latham, Jan. 9, 1860, Democrat + John G. Downey (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Jan. 14, 1860, + Democrat + Leland Stanford, Jan. 10, 1862, Republican + Frederick F. Low, Dec. 10, 1863, Union Party + Henry H. Haight, Dec. 5, 1867, Democrat + Newton Booth, Dec. 8, 1871, Republican + Romualdo Pacheco (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Feb. 27, 1875, + Republican (native state Governor) + William Irwin, Dec. 8, 1875, Democrat + Geo. C. Perkins, Jan. 8, 1880, Republican + Geo. Stoneman, Jan. 10, 1883, Democrat + Washington Bartlett, Jan. 8, 1887, Democrat + Robert W. Waterman (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Sept. 13, 1887, + Republican + H. H. Markham, Jan. 8, 1891, Republican + James H. Budd, Jan. II, 1895, Democrat + Henry T. Gage, Jan. 4, 1899, Republican + Geo. C. Pardee, Jan. 7, 1903, Republican + James N. Gillett, Jan. 9, 1907, Republican + Hiram W. Johnson, January, 1911, Republican; reelected on Progressive + ticket, 1914 + William D. Stephens (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated March 15, 1917, + Progressive + + + +Electoral Vote + + + + 1852, Democratic, 4 votes + 1856, Democratic, 4 votes + 1860, Republican, 4 votes + 1864, Republican, 5 votes + 1868, Republican, 5 votes + 1872, Republican, 6 votes + 1876, Republican, 6 votes + 1880 Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 5 votes + 1884, Republican, 8 votes + 1888, Republican, 8 votes + 1892, Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 8 votes + 1896, Republican, 8 votes + Democratic, People's and Silver parties, 1 vote + 1900, Republican, 9 votes + 1904, Republican, 9 votes + 1908, Republican, to votes + 1912, Democratic, 2 votes + Progressive, 11 votes + 1916, Democratic, 13 votes + 1920, Republican, 13 votes + + + + +Bibliography + + Bancroft--"History of California," vols. I, II, Ill, IV, V, VI, VII. + Bancroft--"California Pastoral." + Bancroft--"History of North Mexican States." + Hittell--"History of California," vols. I, II, III, IV. + Royce--"History of California." + Blackmar--"Spanish Institutions of the Southwest." + Montalvo--"Sergas of Esplandian." Translator, E. E. Hale, Atlantic + Monthly, Vol. XIII, p. 265. + Vancouver--"Voyage of Discovery to the Pacific Ocean," vol. III. + Geronimo Boscano--"Chinigchinich," "History of Mission Indians." + Translator, + Alfred Robinson--"Life in California." + Francisco Palou--"Life of Fray Junipero Serra." + Junipero Serra--"Diary." Translated in magazine Out West, March-July, + 1902. + Hakluyt--"Drake's Voyages." + Vanegas--"History of California." + Davis--"Sixty Years in California." + Colton--"Three Years in California." + Fremont--"Memoirs." + Sherman--"Memoirs." Century Magazine, vols. 41-42. + Stoddard--"In the Footsteps of the Padres." + Lummis--"The Right Hand of the Continent." Series, Out West Magazine, + 1903. + Lummis--" Spanish Pioneers." + Jackson--"A Century of Dishonor." + Jackson--"Ramona." + California Book of Louisiana Purchase Exposition. + + + + +Index + + + + Abalone, 22 + Acapulco, 68 + Admission to the Union, 179-182 + Adobe, 93 + Alameda, 182 + Alaska, 214 + Alba, 110 + Alcalde, 104, 108, 173, 174 + Alfalfa, 244 + Afileria, 209 + Alta, 86 + Alvarado, 125, 133, 134, 136 + American government of California, 173-179 + American River, 150 + Americans in California, 129, 134, 140-146, 149 + Anaheim, settled, 212 + Anian, Strait of, 53, 62 + Apricots, 256 + Area, 289 + Arguello, Captain Lulls, 128, 131, 132 + Arguello family, 145 + Arroyo Seco, 97, 146 + Ascension, Padre, 8, 670 + Atole, 94 + Avalon, 68 + Ayala, Lieutenant, 88 + Bahia, 249 + Bailey, W. F., quoted, 185 + Bananas, 257 + Bancroft, quoted, 206 + Bandini, aids Americans, 145 + Bandini, Dona Arcadia, quoted, 137 + Bandini, Mrs., makes flag, 146 + Barley, 255 + Bautista, 134 + Bear Flag Republic, 142 + Beets, 260 + Belmont Military Academy, 287 + Benitite, 277 + Benton, Senator, 182, 195 + Berkeley, State University at, 283 + Bidwell, quoted, 166 + Bolero, 116 + Bonito, 22 + Borax, 276 + British, visit California, 130 + Broderick, David C., 190, 191 + Buffalo Bill, 186 + Burbank, Luther, 262-266 + Burnett, Peter, 181 + Butte County, oranges in, 247 + Cable, Pacific, 225 + Cabo de Pinos, 55 + Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez, 48-56, 72 + Cacafuegos, 60 + Cactus, 265 + Cahuenga, treaty of, 146, 148 + Calaveras grove, 235 + Calhoun, 179 + California, area of, 289 + California, climate of, 13-18 + California, geography of, 13,14 + California, name, origin of, 11, 12 + California Column, 198 + California Lancers, 193 + Californite, 276 + Camisa, 116 + Canneries, 257, 260, 261 + Cape Mendocino, 67 + Capitol, 204 + Carmelo River, 71, 87 + Carmenon, Sebastin, explorations of, 67 + Carne seco, 101 + Carquinez, Strait of, 14 + Carreta, 116, 118, 213 + Carrillo, in convention, 177 + Castillo, Domingo, map of, 12 + Castro, General, 139, 140, 142 + Cattle raising, 108, 113 + Celery, 256 + Central Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + Chagres, Panama, 163 + Chamisso, Albert von, 182 + Chapman, 125, 126 + Cherries, 262 + China, war with Japan, 223 + Chinese, in California, 202, 203 + Chinese, work on railroad, 198 + Chinigchinich, 25, 33-36, 45, 47 + Chippa, 43-45 + Cholos, 138 + Cigaritos, 109 + Citron, 246, 256 + Civil War, 180, 189-194 + Clay, Henry, 178 + Cleeta, 19-29, 45-47 + Climate, 13-18 + Club wheat, 242 + Cody, Mr., 186 + Coloma, mill near, 150 + Columbia, and Panama Canal, 222 + Colony days, 211-214 + Colton, Rev. Walter, 173, 174 + Colton, quoted, 203 + Comandante, 136 + Comstock mine, 271 + Concepcion de Arguello, 130, 131 + Conquest of California, 139-146 + Constitution of 1849, 178 + Constitution of 1879, 203 + Constitutional Convention of 1849, 177 + Cooper, Ellwood, 262 + Copper mining, 276 + Corn, 244 + Coronel, Don Ignacio, school of, 280 + Cortez, Hernando, 12, 53, 74 + Cotopacnic, 46 + Counties, 290, 291 + Cradle, used in mining, 158 + Crespi, Juan, 75, 100 + Crocker, Charles, 197-199 + Cuatrito, 117 + Cuchuma, 22, 26, 32, 35, 45 + Cushiony scale, 250 + Day, Sherman, 284 + Debris, 268 + Del Valle, Reginaldo, 288 + Dewey, Commodore, in Spanish war, 217 + Dios, 110 + Dolores mission, 88 + Donner party, 167 + Dragontea, 57 + Drake, Sir Francis, 57-66, 12, 73 + Drakes Bay, 63 + Dress of early Californians, 115, 116 + Dried fruits, 260 + Drift mining, 269 + Dulce, 258. + Earthquake (1906), 225-228 + El Camino Real, 95 + El Refugio, 125 + Empire mine, 274 + England, explorations, 59-66 + Escuela, 279 + Explorations, 48-73, 81-83 + Farallones, 81 + Farmer's Institute, 285 + Ferrelo, 56, 57, 85 + Festivals, 126 + Fiesta, 126 + Figs, 260 + Flores, General, 146 + Flour trade, 243 + Forests, 229-236 + Forty-niners, 156, 172 + Fremont, Captain, 139-143, 146 + Fremont, dispute with Kearny, 148, 149 + Fremont, elected senator, 178 + Fremont, explorations, 139, 107, 195 + Fremont, on land question, 182 + French, visit California, 129 + Frijoles, 98 + Fruit, 246-263 + Fruit, canned, 257, 260 + Fruit, crystallized, 261 + Fruit, dried, 260 + Fruit, preserved, 258 + Fugitive Slave Law, 190 + Galli, Francisco, 66 + Galvez, Jose de, 75-78, 84, 87 + Gems, 276 + Gente de razon, 124 + Gentiles, 80 + Gesnip, 19-33, 38-47 + Gicamas, 70 + Gigantea, 234 + Gillespie, 140, 143, 146 + Gold, discovered, 147, 151, 155 + Gold, early mining, 154-160 + Gold, modern mines, 267-271, 274 + Golden Hind, ship, 66 + Governors, list of, 292 + Graham, 133, 134 + Grain, 238-245 + Grape fruit, 252 + Grapes, 254, 258-260 + Guam, 225 + Gwin, in convention, 177 + Gwin, senator, 178, 189, 190, 281 + Hague, 220, 221 + Harte, Bret, 180, 200 + Harvester, 240 + Hawaii, 218-220, 225 + Hearst, Mrs. Phoebe, 283, 285 + Hecox, Mrs., quoted, 171 + Hittell, quoted, 205 + Hopkins, Mark, 197 + Huntington, Collis P., 197, 198 + Huntington, H. E., 239 + Hydraulic mining, 160, 268, 269 + Ide, 141. + Immigration after 1848, 156, 161-172 + Indian Bar, 184 + Indians, aborigines, 19-47, 54, 63, 64 + Indians, baskets, 43-45 + Indians, boats, 39 + Indians, clothing, 21, 31, 32, 33, 43, 63 + Indians, food, 28, 29, 38, 42, 45-47 + Indians, houses, 26 + Indians, hunting, 23-25, 42, 43 + Indians, myths, 80, 45 + Indians, worship, 33-36 + Indians in Santa Catalina, 70 + Indians, mission, 91-105, 127 + Indians, on ranches, 110-112 + Indians, recent history, 206-208 + Irrigation, 245, 252-255 + Isadora, 138 + Isbell, Mrs. Oliver Mann, 280 + Jacal, 26 + Japan, 223-225 + Jesuits in New Spain, 76 + Jiminez, 53 + Jones, Commodore, 136, 137 + Jones, W. C., 182 + Jordan, President, 287 + Juan, 48, 51, 52, 56 + Judah, Theodore D., 196-198. + Kahhoom, 43-45 + Kearny, General Stephen, 145, 148, 149 + Kern River, electric power from, 278 + Kindergartens, 282 + King, Thomas Starr, 192 + Klamath, 37, 38 + Korea, 223 + Kotzebue, Otto von, 132 + Kunzite, 276 + Ladybird, 250 + La Fiesta, 126 + Laguna rancho, battle of, 146 + Laguna rancho, sheep on, 210 + Land question, 182, 183 + La Perouse, 129 + La Posesion, 55 + La Purisima mission, 89 + Larkin, consul, 136, 137,139, 284 + Leland Stanford Junior University, 285-287 + Lemons, 245, 251 + Lick Observatory, 284 + Lollah, 30 + Lopez, Juan, 147 + Lorne, Marquis of, quoted, 262 + Los Angeles, beginnings of, 107, 108. + Los Angeles, captured by Americans, 143 + Los Angeles, church built by Chapman, 125 + Los Angeles, during Civil War, 194 + Los Angeles, in colony days, 213 + Los Angeles, Kern River power, 278 + Los Angeles, old palms in, 144 + Los Angeles, State Normal School, 283 + Lumber, 229-236 + Lummis. Charles F., author, 249 + Macana, 22, 27, 28, 31, 32, 37, 38, 41, 42, 44, 46 + Machado, Agustin, 122 + McKinley, President, 218, 220 + Maestro, 113 + Mahan, Captain, quoted, 220 + Malaga, 256 + Manchuria, 223 + Mandarin orange, 248 + Manila, cable to, 225 + Manila, trade, 67, 74, 77 + Manila Bay, battle, 217 + Marin County, 226 + Mariposa grove, 234 + Marshall, James, 150-153 + Mason, Colonel, 149, 154 + Mayor domo, 110 + Mendocino, Cape, 67 + Mendoza, 72 + Merced River, 160. 111 + Mexican government of California, 124 + Mexico, dispute over Plus Fund, 221 + Mexico, revolt against Spain, 122, 124 + Mexico, war with the United States, 134-135, 140, 174 + Micheltorena, Governor, 137 + Millay, 48 + Mills College, 287 + Mines, modern, 267-277 + Missions, 76-105 + Missions, aid government, 123 + Missions, irrigation, 252 + Missions, orchards, 257, 258 + Missions, schools at, 279 + Missions, secularized, 103-105, 126 + Missions, wheat raising, 237-239 + Modocs, 208 + Monterey, attacked by pirate, 125 + Monterey, captured by Jones, 186, 137 + Monterey, captured by Sloat, 143 + Monterey, mission founded at, 85 + Monterey, presidio of, 87 + Monterey Bay, discovered, 55, 71 + Monterey Bay, Portola at, 81 + Mountains, 18-16 + Muchachas, 110, 112 + Muchchos, 110 + Murphy, Virginia Reed, quoted, 168 + Muscat grape, 258 + Mussel Slough District, 201 + Nahal, 31 + Nakin, 29, 47 + Native Sons of the Golden West, 205 + Navel orange, 248-250 + Nevada City, 274 + Neve, Felipe de, 107 + New Albion, 64 + New Almaden, quicksilver mines, 276 + Nihie, 35, 36 + No-fence law, 211 + Nopal, 29, 32-36, 40, 41, 43 + Normal schools, 283 + Nuts, 257, 261, 262 + Oats, 255 + Ojai, 287 + Olives, 246, 255, 261 + Ollas, 22, 26, 85 + Oranges, 246-254 + Oregon, voyage of the, 216, 217 + Oregon Country, 135 + Ortega, discovers San Francisco bay, 82, 83 + Ortega, rancho attacked, 125 + Otter hunting, 132, 183 + Outdoor life, 17, 18 + Outlaws, 214 + Pacheco, Governor, 205 + Pacific cable, 225 + Pacific Ocean, importance of, 18, 217 + Padres, 51, See Missions + Pala, chapel, 89 + Palou, Francisco, 75, 79, 88, 100 + Panama Canal, 221 + Panocha, 120 + Papas pequenos, 70 + Pasadena, settled, 212 + Pastorel, 97 + Patio, 94 + Patron, 111 + Patrona, 110, 112 + Payuchi, 25-47 + Pepe, 49, 50 + Pesos, 60 + Petroleum, 276 + Peyri, 95, 96 + Philippine trade, 58, 71-78, 201 + Philippines, 217, 218 + Pico, General Andres, 145, 146, 148 + Pinos, Point, 55, 71, 80, 81 + Pius Fund, 76, 220 + Placer mines, 347, 158, 268 + Plaza, 107 + Pocket, in placer mining, 180 + Pomato, 265 + Pomelo, 252 + Pony express, 185-188 + Port Costa, wheat grader at, 243 + Portola, Captain, 77-80, 88-85 + Prairie schooner, 170 + Preserved fruit, 258 + Presidios, 85, 108 + Prunes, 262, 266 + Pueblos, 106-108 + Pumpkin, preserved, 258 + Quartz mining, 270 + Quicksilver, 276 + Railroad, 196-201, 205, 206 + Rainfall, 14, 16 + Raisins, 250, 258-260 + Ramirez, 177 + Ranch life, 109-127 + Rancheros, 121, 122, 183 + Ranches, modern, 262 + Ranchos, 109 + Rebosa, 118 + Reyes, Point, 67, 81-88 + Rezanof, Count, 130, 181 + Rhubarb, 205 + Riley, Governor, 176 + Riverside, founded, 212 + Riverside, oranges at, 247, 249, 250 + Robinson, Alfred, quoted, 257 + Rodeo, 113, 114 + Roosevelt, 222, 224, 225 + Ross, Fort, 131, 133 + Routes to California, 101-172 + Rurik, ship, 182 + Russia, sells Alaska, 215 + Russia, war with Japan, 224 + Russians in California, 131-133 + Sacramento, founded, 133 + Sacramento, pony express at, 186 + Sacramento, railroad begun, 198 + Sacramento valley, 239, 269 + St. John de Anton, 61 + St. Michael orange, 248 + Sal, Point, 130 + Salinas River, 189 + San Agustin, 67 + San Antonio mission, 87 + San Antonio, ship, 79, 83-85 + San Benito County, benitite in, 277 + San Bernardino County, gems in, 276 + San Bruno, 182 + San Buenaventura mission, 89, 99 + San Buenaventura mission, fruit trees, 246, 257 + San Carlos, ship, 79, 88, 287 + San Carlos de Borromeo mission, 85, 86, 100, 120 + San Diego, captured by Americans, 143-146 + San Diego Bay, discovered, 50, 68 + San Diego mission, 80, 92 + San Diego mission, fruit trees, 248 + San Diego mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Diego mission, wheat, 287 + San Diego presidio, 108 + San Diego, ship, 68 + San Fernando mines, 148 + San Fernando mission, 89,90 + San Fernando mission, brandy, 257 + San Fernando mission, fruit trees, 246 + San Francisco, city named, 153 + San Francisco, disorder in (Vigilantes), 184 + San Francisco, during Civil War, 192, 198 + San Francisco, earthquake and fire, 226-228 + San Francisco, gold excitement, 158, 154 + San Francisco, growth after 1848, 156 + San Francisco, in war of 1898, 218 + San Francisco, kindergartens, 282 + San Francisco, pony express at, 186 + San Francisco, Sutro baths, etc., 273, 274 + San Francisco Bay, discovered, 88, 87, 88 + San Francisco mission, 87, 88 + San Francisco presidio, 108 + San Gabriel mission, 87,90 + San Gabriel mission, Chapman at, 125, 120 + San Gabriel mission, mill at, 239 + San Gabriel mission, orchards, 246, 257 + San Gabriel mission, wheat, 237 + San Gabriel River, battle of, 146 + San Joaquin Valley, 239, 247, 269 + San Jose, beginnings of, 107 + San Jose, early school at, 280 + San Jose, earthquake, 226 + San Jose mission, 89, 121 + San Jose mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Jose, ship, 83 + San Juan Bautista mission, 89 + San Juan Capistrano mission, 89, 98 + San Juan Capistrano mission, attacked by pirate, 125 + San Luis Obispo mission, 87 + San Luis Obispo Polytechnic School, 282 + San Luis Rey mission, 89, 95 + San Mateo, 182 + San Miguel, Cabrillo at, 50, 55-57 + San Miguel mission, 89, 123 + San Pasqual, battle, 145, 146 + San Pedro, Bay-of, discovered, 54, 71 + San Rafael mission, 89 + San Salvador, 53 + San Tomas, ship, 68, 71, 72 + Sanchez, Padre, 246 + Sanitary Commission, 192 + Santa Barbara mission, 89 + Santa Barbara mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Barbara presidio, 108 + Santa Catalina, 22 + Santa Catalina, discovered, 53, 68 + Santa Clara College, 288 + Santa Clara mission, 89 + Santa Clara mission, Indian revolt, 102 + Santa Clara mission, orchards, 257 + Santa Clara mission, school at, 280 + Santa Cruz, town founded, 107 + Santa Cruz mission, 80 + Santa Fe, 78 + Santa Inez mission, 89 + Santa Inez mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Rosa, 226, 264, 266 + Saunders, and navel oranges, 249 + Scale, orange, 250, 251 + School taxes, 282 + Schools, early, 113, 279-281 + Schools, modern, 281-288 + Sempervirens, 230, 234 + Senor, 56, 133 + Senora, 213 + Senorita, 213 + Sequoias, 230-235 + Sequoya League, 208 + Serra, Junipero, 75-80, 83-88, 102 + Serra, Junipero, death of, 100 + Serra, Junipero, work of, 91, 92 + Seward, 179, 214, 215 + Shasta, oranges in, 247 + Shasta, Mount, 275 + Sheep Industry, 209-211 + Sherman, Wm. T., 149, 151, 164 + "Shirley," quoted, 184 + Sholoc, 22-82, 85, 36, 89, 46, 47 + Shumeh, 31 + Sierra Nevada, 14, 16, 56, 100, 282 + Slavery struggle, 175-179, 190 + Sloat, Commodore, 142, 148 + Soil, 16, 18 + Solano mission, 89 + Soledad mission, 89 + Sombrero, 111 + Sonoma, captured, 141 + South Sea, 58 + Southern Pacific Railroad, 201,290 + Spain, colonies, 75, 77 + Spain, colonies, explorations, 48-57, 66-73, 81-83 + Spain, colonies, revolt against, 122, 124 + Spain, colonies, trade laws, 119-122 + Spanish government of California, 77, 122 + Spanish-American War, 215-219 + Stampede of 1849, 161 + Stanford, Leland, gifts for education, 283, 286 + Stanford, Leland, governor, 193 + Stanford, Leland, railroad work, 197-200 + Stanford, Mrs. Leland, 283, 286 + Stanford, Thomas Weldon, 287 + Stanford University, 285-287 + Steamboat, first in California, 155 + Stearns, Don Abel, 137, 147, 148 + Stock raising, 108, 113 + Stockton, Commodore, 143, 146, 148 + Stockton, grain center, 242 + Sugar, 260 + Sultana grape, 239 + Sutro, Adolph, 271-274 + Sutro baths, 273, 274 + Sutter, Captain John, 133, 150-152 + Sutter's Fort, 133 + Sutter's mill, 150, 153 + Tamales, 209 + Tangerine orange, 248 + Telegraph, 195 + Texas, 134, 135 + Thatcher School, 287 + Throop Polytechnic School, 287 + Tibbetta, Mrs., and navel oranges, 249 + Titas, 45 + Tomales, 226 + Tortilla, 93,111, 244 + Trade, early, 119-122 + Tres Re yes, ship, 68, 82, 83 + Trist, 175 + Tsuwish, 43, 45 + Tuscon, 206 + Tulare County, products, 247, 276 + Tules, 30, 31, 35, 39, 40 + Tuolumne grove, 284 + Union Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + United States, conquers California, 134-146 + University of California, 283-285 + Valencia late orange, 248 + Vallejo, General, 125 + Vallejo, General, captured, 141 + Vallejo, General, in convention, 177 + Vallejo, General, loses land, 183 + Vallejo, General, quoted, 118, 148 + Vallejo, Senorita Guadalupe, quoted 118, 121, 183, 257 + Vancouver, Captain, 130 + Vancouver, Captain, quoted, 257 + Vanquech, 35 + Vaquero, 111 + Vasques, 214 + Vegetables, 256, 257, 261 + Ventura, Cabrillo at, 54 + Vera Cruz, 74, 75 + Vigilantes, 184, 185 + Vizcaino, Don Sebastian, explorations of, 68-73 + Wash-day expedition, 118 + Webster, Daniel, 176, 179 + Westminster, settled, 212 + Wheat, 237-245, 255 + Wheeler, Benjamin Ide, 284 + White, Stephen M., 288 + Whitman, Walt, quoted, 219 + Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 282 + Willey, Rev. Samuel, 284 + Wolfskill grove, 246 + Yerba Buena, 152 + Yosemite, 238 + Zanja, 94 + + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's History of California, by Helen Elliott Bandini + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + +***** This file should be named 7778-8.txt or 7778-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/7/7/7778/ + +Produced by David A. Schwan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: History of California + +Author: Helen Elliott Bandini + + +Release Date: March, 2005 [EBook #7778] +This file was first posted on May 16, 2003 +Last Updated: October 31, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Text file produced by David A. Schwan + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + + +</pre> + + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA + </h1> + <h2> + By Helen Elliot Bandini + </h2> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h4> + Illustrated By Roy J. Warren <br /> <br /> B. Cal. W. P. 16 + </h4> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> Preface </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> History of California </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I. — The Land and the Name </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. — The Story of the Indians </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. — “The Secret of the Strait” + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. — The Cross of Santa Fe </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V. — Pastoral Days </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI. — The Footsteps of the Stranger + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII. — At the Touch of King Midas + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter VIII. — The Great Stampede </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX. — The Birth of the Golden Baby + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter X. — The Signal Gun and the Steel + Trail </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI. — That Which Followed After + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII. — “The Groves Were God’s First + Temples” </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter XIII. — To All that Sow the Time of + Harvest Should be Given </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV. — The Golden Apples of the + Hesperides </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV. — California’s other + Contributions to the World’s Bill of Fare </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter XVI. — The Hidden Treasures of + Mother Earth </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter XVII. — From La Escuela of Spanish + California to the Schools of the Twentieth </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter XVIII. — Statistics </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> Counties of California </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_LIST"> List of Governors </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_BIBL"> Bibliography </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> Index </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Preface + </h2> + <p> + This book is an attempt to present the history of California in so simple + and interesting a way that children may read it with pleasure. It does not + confine itself to the history of one section or period, but tells the + story of all the principal events from the Indian occupancy through the + Spanish and Mission days, the excitement of the gold discovery, the birth + of the state, down to the latest events of yesterday and to-day. Several + chapters, also, are devoted to the development of California’s great + industries. The work is designed not only for children, but also for older + people interested in the story of California, including the tourists who + visit the state by the thousand every year. + </p> + <p> + For her information the writer has depended almost entirely upon source + material, seldom making use of a secondary work. Her connection with the + old Spanish families has opened to her unusual advantages for the study of + old manuscripts and for the gathering of recollections of historical + events which she has taken from the lips of aged Spanish residents, always + verifying a statement before using it. She has, also, from long + familiarity with the Spanish-speaking people, been able to interpret truly + the life of the Spanish and Mission period. + </p> + <p> + The illustrator of the history, Mr. Roy J. Warren, has made a careful + study of the manuscript, chapter by chapter. He has also been a faithful + student of California and her conditions; his illustrations are, + therefore, in perfect touch with the text and are as true to facts as the + history itself. + </p> + <p> + The thanks of the author are due not only to a host of writers from whom + she has gained valuable assistance, and some of whose names are among + those in the references at the end of the book, but to others to whom + further acknowledgment is due. First of these is Professor H. Morse + Stephens, whose suggestions from the inception of the work until its + completion have been of incalculable advantage, and whose generous offer + to read the proof sheets crowns long months of friendly interest. + Secondly, the author is indebted to the faithful and constant supervision + of her sister, Miss Agnes Elliott of the Los Angeles State Normal School, + without whose wide experience as a teacher of history and economics the + work could never have reached its present plane. The author also offers + her thanks to Mr. Charles F. Lummis, to whom not only she but all students + of California history must ever be indebted; to Mrs. Mary M. Coman, Miss + Isabel Frazee, to the officers of the various state departments, + especially Mr. Lewis E. Aubrey, State Mineralogist, and Mr. Thomas J. Kirk + and his assistant Mr. Job Wood of the educational department; to Miss + Nellie Rust, Librarian of the Pasadena City Library, and her corps of + accommodating and intelligent assistants, and to the librarians of the Los + Angeles City Library and State Normal School. + </p> + <p> + The passages from the Century Magazine quoted in Chapters V-IX are + inserted by express permission of the publishers, the Century Company. + Acknowledgment is due, also, to the publishers of the Overland Monthly for + courtesy in permitting the use of copyright material; and to D. Appleton + & Co. for permission to insert selections from Sherman’s Memoirs. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + History of California + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter I. — The Land and the Name + </h2> + <p> + Once upon a time, about four hundred years ago, there was published in old + Spain a novel which soon became unusually popular. The successful story of + those days was one which caught the fancy of the men, was read by them, + discussed at their gatherings, and often carried with them when they went + to the wars or in search of adventures. This particular story would not + interest readers of to-day save for this passage: “Know that on the right + hand of the Indies there is an island called California, very near the + Terrestrial Paradise, and it is peopled by black women who live after the + fashion of Amazons. This island is the strongest in the world, with its + steep rocks and great cliffs, and there is no metal in the island but + gold.” + </p> + <p> + There is no doubt that some bold explorer, crossing over from Spain to + Mexico and enlisting under the leadership of the gallant Cortez, sailed + the unknown South Sea (the Pacific) and gave to the new land discovered by + one of Cortez’s pilots the name of the golden island in this favorite + story. + </p> + <p> + This land, thought to be an island, is now known to us as the peninsula of + Lower California. The name first appeared in 1542 on the map of Domingo + Castillo, and was soon applied to all the land claimed by Spain from Cape + San Lucas up the coast as far north as 44¼, which was probably a little + higher than any Spanish explorer had ever sailed. + </p> + <p> + “Sir Francis Drake,” says the old chronicle, “was the first Englishman to + sail on the back side of America,” and from that time until now California + has been considered the back door of the country. This was natural because + the first settlements in the United States were along the Atlantic + seacoast. The people who came from England kept their faces turned + eastward, looking to the Mother Country for help, and watching Europe, and + later England herself, as a quarter from which danger might come, as + indeed it did in the war of the Revolution and that of 1812. + </p> + <p> + During the last few years, however, various events have happened to change + this attitude. Through its success in the late Spanish war the United + States gained confidence in its own powers, while the people of the old + world began to realize that the young republic of the western hemisphere, + since it did not hesitate to make war in the interests of humanity, would + not be apt to allow its own rights to be imposed upon. The coming of the + Philippine and Hawaiian Islands under the protection of the United States, + the Russo-Japanese war, which opened the eyes of the world to the strength + of Japan and the wisdom of securing its trade, and the action of the + United States in undertaking the building of the Panama Canal, are + indications that the Pacific will in the future support a commerce the + greatness of which we of to-day cannot estimate. With danger from European + interference no longer pressing closely upon the nation, President + Roosevelt in 1907 took a decided step in recognizing the importance of the + Pacific when he sent to that coast so large a number of the most modern + vessels of the navy. In fact, the nation may now be said to have faced + about, California becoming the front door of our country. + </p> + <p> + It is well, then, to ask ourselves what we know about the state which is + to form part of the reception room of one of the leading nations of the + world. + </p> + <p> + It is a long strip of territory, bounded on one side by the ocean so well + named Pacific, which gives freshness and moisture to the ever-blowing + westerly winds. + </p> + <p> + On the other side is a mountain range, one thousand miles long, with many + of its peaks covered with perpetual snow, holding in its lofty arms + hundreds of ice-cold lakes, its sides timbered with the most wonderful + forests of the world. + </p> + <p> + Few regions of the same size have so great a range of altitude as + California, some portions of its desert lands being below sea level, while + several of its mountains are over ten thousand feet in height. In its + climate, too, there are wide differences as regards heat and cold, + although its coast lands, whether north or south, are much more temperate + than the corresponding latitudes on the Atlantic coast. The difference in + the climate of the northern and southern portions of the state is more + marked in the matter of moisture. Most of the storms of California have + their beginning out in the North Pacific Ocean. They travel in a + southeasterly direction, striking the coast far to the north in summer, + but in winter extending hundreds of miles farther south. During November, + December, January, and February they often reach as far south as the + Mexican line. Then, only, does southern California have rain. The water + necessary for use in the summer time is gained by irrigation from the + mountain streams, which are supplied largely from the melting snows on the + Sierras. + </p> + <p> + The home lands of the state may be divided into two portions: the + beautiful border country rising from the Pacific in alternate valleys and + low rolling foothills to the edge of the Coast Range; and the great + central valley or basin, which lies like a vast pocket almost entirely + encircled by mountains the high Sierras on the east, on the west the low + Coast Range. Two large rivers with their tributaries drain this valley: + the San Joaquin, flowing from the south; and the Sacramento, flowing from + the north. Joining near the center of the state, they cut their way + through the narrow passage, the Strait of Carquinez, and casting their + waters into the beautiful Bay of San Francisco, finally reach the ocean + through the Golden Gate. + </p> + <p> + Down from the Sierras, mighty glaciers carried the soil for this central + valley, grinding and pulverizing it as it was rolled slowly along. Many + years this process continued. The rain, washing the mountain sides, + brought its tribute in the rich soil and decayed vegetation of the higher + region, until a natural seed bed was formed, where there can be raised in + abundance a wonderful variety of plants and trees. In the coast valleys + the soil is alluvial, the fine washing of mountain rocks; this is mixed in + some places with a warmer, firmer loam and in others with a gravelly soil, + which is the best known for orange raising. + </p> + <p> + The state owes much to her mountains, for not only have they contributed + to her fertile soil, but they hold in their rocky slopes the gold and + silver mines which have transformed the whole region from an unknown + wilderness to a land renowned for its riches and beauty. They lift their + lofty peaks high in the air like mighty strongholds, and, shutting out the + desert winds, catch the clouds as they sail in from the ocean, making them + pay heavy tribute in fertilizing rain to the favored land below. + </p> + <p> + The climate, which of all the precious possessions of California is the + most valuable, is best described by Bret Harte in the lines, “Half a year + of clouds and flowers; half a year of dust and sky.” Either half is + enjoyable, for in the summer, or dry season, fogs or delightful westerly + winds soon moderate a heated spell, and in nearly all parts of the state + the nights are cool; while the rainy, or winter season, changes to balmy + springtime as soon as the storm is over. + </p> + <p> + In a large portion of the state the climate is such that the inhabitants + may spend much of their time out of doors. As a rule few duties are + attended to in the house which can possibly be performed in the open air. + It is growing to be more and more the custom to have, in connection with a + Californian home, a tent bedroom where the year round one or more of the + members of the family sleep, with only a wall of canvas between them and + nature. + </p> + <p> + The vacation time is spent largely in summer camps, at either mountain or + seashore, or, quite often, a pleasant party of one or two families live + together, very simply, under the greenwood tree beside some spring or + stream, spending a few weeks in gypsy fashion. While the young folk grow + sturdy and beautiful, the older members of the party become filled with + strength and a joy of living which helps them through the cares and + struggles of the rest of the year. This joy in outdoor life is not, + however, a discovery of to-day. The old Spanish families spent as much + time as possible in the courtyard, the house being deserted save at night. + When upon journeys, men, women, and children slept in the open air. Even + the clothes-washing period was turned into a kind of merrymaking. Whole + families joined together to spend days in the vicinity of some stream, + where they picnicked while the linen was being cleansed in the running + water and dried on the bushes near by. + </p> + <p> + Once before, when the world was younger, there was a land similar to this,—sea-kissed, + mountain-guarded, with such gentle climate and soft skies. Its people, who + also lived much out of doors at peace with nature, became almost perfect + in health and figure, with mental qualities which enabled them to give to + the world the best it has known in literature and art. What the ancient + Greeks were, the people of California may become; but with an advancement + in knowledge and loving-kindness of man toward man which heathen Athens + never knew. + </p> + <p> + What will be the result of this outdoor life cannot yet be told; climate + has always had an active influence in shaping the character and type of a + people. With a climate mild and healthful, yet bracing; with a soil so + rich that the touch of irrigation makes even the sandiest places bloom + with the highest beauty of plant, tree, and vine; with an ocean warm and + gentle, and skies the kindliest in the world,—there is, if we judge + by the lesson history teaches, a promise of a future for California + greater and more noble than the world has yet known. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter II. — The Story of the Indians + </h2> + <p> + “Run, Cleeta, run, the waves will catch you.” Cleeta scudded away, her + naked little body shining like polished mahogany. She was fleet of foot, + but the incoming breakers from the bosom of the great Pacific ran faster + still; and the little Indian girl was caught in its foaming water, rolled + over and over, and cast upon the sandy beach, half choked, yet laughing + with the fun of it. + </p> + <p> + “Foolish Cleeta, you might have been drowned; that was a big wave. What + made you go out so far?” said Gesnip, the elder sister. + </p> + <p> + “I found such a lot of mussels, great big ones, I wish I could go back and + get them,” said the little one, looking anxiously at the water. + </p> + <p> + “The waves are coming in higher and higher and it is growing late,” said + Gesnip; “besides, I have more mussels already than you and I can well + carry. The boys have gone toward the river mouth for clams. They will be + sure to go home the other way.” + </p> + <p> + Cleeta ran to the basket and looked in. + </p> + <p> + “I should think there were too many for us to carry,” she said, as she + tried with all her strength to lift it by the carry straps. “What will you + do with them; throw some back into the water?” + </p> + <p> + “No, I don’t like to do that,” answered her sister, frowning, “for it has + been so long since we have had any. The wind and the waves have been too + high for us to gather any. Look, Cleeta, look; what are those out on the + water? I do believe they are boats.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” said the little girl; “I see what you mean, but boats never go out + so far as that.” + </p> + <p> + “Not tule boats,” said Gesnip, “but big thick one made out of trees; that + is the kind they have at Santa Catalina, the island where uncle lives. It + has been a long time since he came to see us, not since you were four + years old, but mother is always looking for him.” + </p> + <p> + The children gazed earnestly seaward at a fleet of canoes which were + making for the shore. “Do you think it is uncle?” asked Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” replied her sister, uncertainly, “I think it may be.” Then, as the + sunlight struck full on the boats “Yes, yes, I am sure of it, for one is + red, and no on else has a boat of that color; all others are brown.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother said he would bring abalone when he came,” cried Cleeta, dancing + from one foot to the other; “and she said they are better than mussels or + anything else for soup.” + </p> + <p> + “He will bring fish,” said Gesnip, “big shining fish with yellow tails.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother said he would bring big blue ones with hard little seams down + their sides,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + Meantime the boats drew nearer. They were of logs hollowed out until they + were fairly light, but still seeming too clumsy for safe seagoing craft. + In each were several men. One sat in the stern and steered, the others + knelt in pairs, each man helping propel the boat by means of a stick some + four feet long, more like a pole than a paddle, which he worked with great + energy over the gunwale. + </p> + <p> + “I am afraid of them,” said Cleeta, drawing close to her sister. “They do + not look like the people I have seen. Their faces are the color of the + kah-hoom mother weaves in her baskets. There are only three like us, and + they all have such strange clothes.” + </p> + <p> + “Do not be afraid,” said Gesnip. “I see uncle; he is one of the dark ones + like ourselves. The island people have yellow skins.” + </p> + <p> + The time was the year 1540, and the people, the Californians of that day. + The men in the boat were mostly from the island of Santa Catalina, and + were fairer, with more regular features, than the inhabitants of the + mainland, who in southern California were a short, thick-set race, with + thick lips, dark brown skin, coarse black hair, and eyes small and shining + like jet-black beads. They were poorly clothed in winter; in summer a loin + cloth was often all that the men wore, while the children went naked a + large part of the year. + </p> + <p> + With wonderful skill the badly shaped boats were guided safely over the + breakers until their bows touched the sand. Then the men leaped out and, + half wading, half swimming, pulled them from the water and ran them up on + the beach. + </p> + <p> + The little girls drew near and stood quietly by, waiting to be spoken to. + Presently the leading man, who was short, dark, and handsomely dressed in + a suit of sealskin ornamented with abalone shell, turned to them. + </p> + <p> + “Who are these little people?” he asked, in a kind voice. + </p> + <p> + “We are the children of Cuchuma and Macana,” replied Gesnip, working her + toes in and out of the soft sand, too shy to look her uncle in the face. + </p> + <p> + “Children of my sister, Sholoc is glad to see you,” said the chief, laying + his hand gently on Cleeta’s head. “Your mother, is she well?” + </p> + <p> + “She is well and looking for you these many moons,” said Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + The men at once began unloading the boats. The children watched the + process with great interest, Abalone in their shells, a dainty prized then + as well as now, fish, yellowtail and bonito, filled to the brim the large + baskets which the men slung to their backs, carrying them by means of a + strap over the forehead. On their heads they placed ollas, or water jars, + of serpentine from quarries which may be seen in Santa Catalina to-day, + the marks of the tools of workmen of, that time still in the rocks. + </p> + <p> + There were also strings of bits of abalone shell which had been punctured + and then polished, and these Sholoc hung around his neck. + </p> + <p> + “Uncle,” exclaimed Gesnip, touching one of these strings, “how much money! + You have grown rich at Santa Catalina. What will you buy?” + </p> + <p> + “Buy me a wife, perhaps,” was the reply. “I will give two strings for a + good wife. Do you know any worth so much?” + </p> + <p> + “No,” said the girl, stoutly. “I don’t know any worth two whole strings of + abalone. You can get a good wife for much less.” + </p> + <p> + The men, who had succeeded in loading the contents of the boats on their + heads and backs, now marched away, in single file, crossing the heavy sand + dunes slowly, then mounting the range of foothills beyond. The children + followed. Gesnip had her basket bound to her head by a strap round her + forehead; but, though her uncle had taken out part of the contents, it was + a heavy load for the child. + </p> + <p> + As they neared the top of the hill, Sholoc, who was ahead, lifted his hand + and motioned them to stop. + </p> + <p> + “Hush,” he said softly, “elk.” Swiftly the men slipped off their loads and + with bows in hand each one crept flat on his belly over the hill crest. + Gesnip and Cleeta peeped through the high grass. Below them was a wide + plain, dotted with clumps of bushes, and scattered over it they could see + a great herd of elk, whose broad, shining antlers waved above the grass + and bushes upon which they were feeding. + </p> + <p> + “Are those elk too?” asked Cleeta, presently, pointing toward the + foothills at their left. + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied her sister, “I think those are antelope. I like to see them + run. How funny their tails shake. But watch the men; they are going to + shoot.” + </p> + <p> + As she spoke, four of the hunters, who had crept well up toward the game, + rose to their feet, holding their bows horizontally, not perpendicularly. + These weapons, which were made of cedar wood, were about four feet in + length, painted at the ends black or dark blue, the middle, which was + almost two inches broad, being wrapped with elk sinew. The strings also + were of sinew. The quiver which each man carried at his side was made from + the skin of a wild cat or of a coyote. A great hunter like Sholoc might + make his quiver from the tails of lions he had killed. Projecting from the + quiver were the bright-feathered ends of the arrows, which were of reed + and were two or three feet long, with points of bone, flint, or obsidian. + </p> + <p> + The hunters, knowing how hard it was to kill large game, had chosen their + arrows carefully, taking those that had obsidian points. Almost at the + same moment they let fly their shafts. Three elk leaped into the air. One + tumbled over in a somersault which broke one of its antlers, and then lay + dead, shot through the heart by Sholoc. Another took a few leaps, but a + second arrow brought it to its knees. Then it sank slowly over upon its + side; but it struck so fiercely at the hunter who ran up to kill it with + his horn knife that he drew back and shot it again. + </p> + <p> + “Where is the third elk?” asked Cleeta, looking around. + </p> + <p> + “Over there,” said Gesnip, pointing across the plain. + </p> + <p> + “Then they have lost it,” said the child, with disappointment. + </p> + <p> + “No, I think not. It is wounded. I saw the blood on its side,” said the + sister. “See, one of the men is following it, and it is half a mile behind + the herd. I am sure he will get it.” + </p> + <p> + “This has been a lucky day,” said Gesnip. “So much food. Our stomachs will + not ache with hunger for a long time.” + </p> + <p> + “That is because mother wove a game basket to Chinigchinich so he would + send food,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + By the time the party had traveled two miles, Gesnip, with her load, and + Cleeta, whose bare brown legs were growing very tired, lagged behind. + </p> + <p> + “O dear,” said the elder sister, “we shall surely be too late to go into + camp with uncle.” Just then a whoop sounded behind them, and a boy of + thirteen, dressed in a rabbit-skin shirt, carrying a bow in his hand, came + panting up to them. + </p> + <p> + “Payuchi,” said Gesnip, eagerly, “carry my basket for me and I will tell + you some good news.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied Payuchi, shaking his head, “it is a girl’s place to carry + the basket.” + </p> + <p> + “Just this little way, and it is such good news” urged Gesnip. “It will, + make your heart glad.” + </p> + <p> + “Very well, then, tell it quickly,” said the boy, changing the basket of + mussels to his own broad back. + </p> + <p> + “Sholoc has come from Santa Catalina with baskets of abalone and fish, and + with ollas all speckled, and strings of money. He is near the top of the + grade now. Upon hearing the good news the lad darted away at a great pace, + his sisters following as fast as they could. Sholoc and his party had + stopped to rearrange their loads, so the children overtook them at the + head of the trail leading to their home. + </p> + <p> + “Below them was a valley dotted with live oaks, and along the banks of the + stream that ran through it was a thick growth of alders, sycamores, and + willows. At the foot of the trail, near the water, was a cluster of what + looked like low, round straw stacks. No straw stacks were they, however, + but houses, the only kind of homes known in southern California at that + time. + </p> + <p> + “It was the Indian settlement where Gesnip, Cleeta, and Payuchi lived, and + of which their father, Cuchuma, was chief. The jacals, or wigwams, were + made of long willow boughs, driven into the ground closely in a circle, + the ends bent over and tied together with deer sinews. They were covered + with a thatching of grass that, when dry, made them look like straw + stacks. + </p> + <p> + “Sholoc stepped to the-edge of the bluff and gave a long, quavering cry + which could be heard far in the still evening air. Instantly out of the + group of jacals came a crowd of men and boys, who gave answering cries.” + </p> + <p> + “I am glad they have a fire,” said Cleeta, as she saw the big blaze in the + middle of the settlement, “I am so cold.” + </p> + <p> + “Take my hand and let’s run,” said Gesnip, and partly running and partly + sliding, they followed the men of the party, who, notwithstanding their + heavy loads, were trotting down the steep trail. + </p> + <p> + They were met at the foot of the grade by a crowd which surrounded them, + all chattering at once. Sholoc told of the elk, and a number of men + started off on the run to bring in the big game. As the visitors entered + camp, Macana, a kind-faced woman, better dressed than most of her tribe, + came forward. She placed her hand on Sholoc’s shoulder, her face lighting + up with love and happiness. + </p> + <p> + “You are welcome, brother,” she said. + </p> + <p> + “The sight of you is good to my eyes, sister,” an answered Sholoc. That + was all the greeting, although the two loved each other well. Macana took + the basket from Payuchi’s back. + </p> + <p> + “Come,” she called to Gesnip, “and help me wash the mussels.” Then, as she + saw the younger girl shivering as she crouched over the fire, “Cleeta, you + need not be cold any longer; your rabbit skin dress is done. Go into the + jacal and put it on.” Cleeta obeyed with dancing eyes. + </p> + <p> + Gesnip followed her mother to the stream. + </p> + <p> + “Take this,” said Macana, handing her an openwork net or bag, “and hold it + while I empty in some of the mussels. Now lift them up and down in the + water to wash out the sand. That will do; put them into this basket, and I + will give you some more.” + </p> + <p> + Meantime some of the women had taken a dozen or more fish from Sholoc’s + baskets, and removing their entrails with bone knives, wrapped them in + many thicknesses of damp grass and laid them in the hot ashes and coals to + bake. + </p> + <p> + When the mussels were all cleaned, Macana emptied them into a large basket + half filled with water, and threw in a little acorn meal and a handful of + herbs. Then, using two green sticks for tongs, she drew out from among the + coals some smooth gray stones which had become very hot. Brushing these + off with a bunch of tules, she lifted them by means of a green stick + having a loop in the end which fitted round the stones, flinging them one + by one into the basket in which were the mussels and water. Immediately + the water, heated by the stones, began to boil, and when the soup was + ready, she set the basket down beside her own jacal and called her + children to her. Payuchi, Gesnip, Cleeta, and their little four-year-old + brother, Nakin, gathered about the basket, helping themselves with abalone + shells, the small holes of which their mother had plugged with wood. + </p> + <p> + “Isn’t father going to have some first?” asked Payuchi, before they began + the meal. + </p> + <p> + “Not this time; he will eat with Sholoc and the men when the fish are + ready,” replied his mother. + </p> + <p> + “This is good soup,” said Gesnip. “I am glad I worked hard before the + water came up. But, Payuchi, didn’t you and Nopal get any clams?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” said her brother, making a face; he had dipped down where the + stones were hottest and the soup thickest, and had taken a mouthful that + burned him. “Yes, we got some clams, more than I could carry; but Nopal + was running races with the other boys and would not come, so I left him to + bring them. He will lose his fish dinner if he doesn’t hurry.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother,” said Cleeta, “may we stay up to the fish bake?” + </p> + <p> + “No,” answered her mother. “You and Nakin must go to bed, but I will save + some for your breakfast. You are tired, Cleeta.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I am tired,” said the little girl, leaning her head against her + mother’s shoulder, “but I am warm in my rabbit-skin dress. We all have + warm dresses now. Please tell me a good-night story,” she begged. “We have + been good and brought in much food.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, tell us how the hawk and coyote made the sun,” said Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Very well,” said the mother, “only you must be quite still.” + </p> + <p> + “It was in the beginning of all things, and a bowl of darkness, blacker + than the pitch lining of our water basket, covered the earth. Man, when he + would go abroad, fell against man, against trees, against wild animals, + even against Lollah, the bear, who would, in turn, hug the unhappy one to + death. Birds flying in the air came together and fell struggling to the + earth. All was confusion.” + </p> + <p> + “Once the hawk, by chance, flew in the face of the coyote. Instead of + fighting about it as naughty children might, they, like people of good + manners, apologized many times. Then they talked over the unhappy state of + things and determined to remedy the evil. The coyote first gathered a + great heap of dried tules, rolled them together into a ball, and gave them + to the hawk, with some pieces of flint. The hawk, taking them in his + talons, flew straight up into the sky, where he struck fire with his + flints, lit the ball of reeds, and left it there whirling along with a + bright yellow light, as it continues to whirl to-day; for it, children, is + our sun, ruler of the day.” + </p> + <p> + “The hawk next flew back for another ball to rule the night, but the + coyote had no tule gathered, and the hawk hurried him so that some damp + stems were mixed in. The hawk flew with this ball into the sky and set it + afire but because of the green tules it burned with only a dim light; and + this, children, is our moon, ruler of the night.” + </p> + <p> + “That is a fine story,” said Payuchi. “I am glad I did not live when there + was no light.” + </p> + <p> + “Tell us how the coyote danced with the star,” said Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied the mother, “another time we shall see. Now I shall sing to + coax sleep to tired eyes, and the little ones will go to bed.” And this + was what she sang: “Pah-high-nui-veve, veve, veve, shumeh, veve, veve, + veve, shumeh, Pah-high-nui-veve,” and so on, repeating these words over + and over until Cleeta and Nakin were sound asleep. Then she laid them on + their tule mats, which were spread on the floor of the jacal, where baby + Nahal, close wrapped in his cocoon-shaped cradle, had been a long time + sleeping. + </p> + <p> + “Mother,” said Gesnip, coming into the jacal, “they have brought in the + elk. Don’t you want something from them?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” replied Macana, “I will go and see about it. I want one of the + skins to make your father a warm hunting dress.” + </p> + <p> + The Indians who had gone after the elk had skinned and cut them up where + they lay, as they were so large that the burden had to be distributed + among a number of carriers. Macana found Sholoc busy portioning out parts + of the elk. As he had a fine seal-skin suit himself, he gladly gave her + the skin of the deer which he had shot. + </p> + <p> + “Isn’t that a big one?” said Payuchi. “It will make father a fine hunting + suit, it is so thick.” Gesnip was loaded down with some of the best cuts + of the meat to take to her father’s jacal. Cuchuma himself began removing + the tendons from the legs, to cure for bowstrings, and to wrap a new bow + he was going to make. + </p> + <p> + “Here, Nopal,” said Sholoc to his oldest nephew, a lad of fifteen, “I will + give you a piece of the antler and you can grind it down and make yourself + a hunting knife. It is time you ceased to play and became a hunter. I had + killed much game when I was your age.” + </p> + <p> + “Will you give me some of the brains that I may finish tanning a deerskin? + I have been waiting to finish it until I could get some brains, but it has + been a long time since any one has brought in big game,” said Macana. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” answered Sholoc, “you shall have them. Payuchi, hand me my elk-horn + ax so that I can split open the head, and you can take the brains to the + jacal.” Soon not a piece of meat, a bit of skin, tendon, or bone, was + left. All was put to use by these people of the forest. And now the feast + was ready. The women had roasted many pieces of elk’s meat over the coals. + The fish had been taken from under the hot ashes, the half burned grass + removed from around them, and the fish broken into pieces and put in flat + baskets shaped like platters. There were also pieces of elk meat and cakes + of acorn meal baked on hot stones. + </p> + <p> + As was the custom with the Indians, the men were served first. Payuchi + watched anxiously as his father and the other men took large helpings from + the baskets. + </p> + <p> + “Do you think there will be enough for us to have any?” he asked Gesnip. + “I am so hungry and they are eating so much. If I were a man, I should + remember about the women and children.” + </p> + <p> + “No; you wouldn’t if you were a man; men never do,” answered Gesnip. “But + you need not worry, there is plenty. Mother said there would be some left + for breakfast.” + </p> + <p> + “Wait for that till I get through,” said Payuchi, laughing. After all had + eaten a hearty meal, more than for many weeks they had been able to have + at any one time, the tired women each gathered her children together and + took them to her own jacal, leaving the men sitting around the camp fire. + Payuchi, who tumbled to sleep as soon as his head touched his sleeping + mat, was wakened by some one pulling his rabbit-skin coat, which he wore + nights as well as days. + </p> + <p> + “Payuchi,” said a voice, “wake up.” + </p> + <p> + “I have not been asleep,” answered the boy, stoutly, as he rubbed his eyes + to get them open. “What do you want, Nopal?” for he saw his brother + speaking to him. + </p> + <p> + “Hush, do not waken mother,” said Nopal, speaking very softly. “I know + that the men will make an offering to Chinigchinich. I am going to watch + them. We are old enough, at least I am. Do you want to come?” + </p> + <p> + A star shone in at the top of the jacal, and Payuchi gazed up at it, + blinking, while he pulled his thoughts together. + </p> + <p> + “They will punish us if they find us out,” said he at length. + </p> + <p> + “But we won’t let them find us out, stupid one,” replied his brother, + impatiently. + </p> + <p> + “What if Chinigchinich should be angry with us? He does not like to have + children in the ceremony of the offering,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “I will give him my humming-bird skin, and you shall give him your + mountain quail head; then he will be pleased with us,” answered Nopal. + </p> + <p> + “All right,” said the boy; “I do not like very well to part with that + quail head, but perhaps it is a good thing to do.” + </p> + <p> + Creeping softly from the jacal, the boys crouched in the shade of a willow + bush and watched the men by the camp fire. + </p> + <p> + “They are standing up. They are just going,” said Payuchi, “and every one + has something in his hand. Father has two bows; I wonder why.” + </p> + <p> + “I think he is going to make an offering of the new bow to Chinigchinich,” + answered Nopal. “I thought he was going to keep it and give me his old + one,” he added, with some disappointment. + </p> + <p> + “What are they offering for?” asked the young brother. + </p> + <p> + “For rain,” said Nopal. “See, they are going now.” In single file the men + walked swiftly away, stepping so softly that not a twig cracked. + </p> + <p> + After a little the boys followed, slipping from bush to bush that they + might not be discovered. They had walked about a mile, when they came to + thicker woods with bigger trees and saw a light ahead of them. Nopal laid + his hand on his brother to stop him. Peeping through a scrub-oak bush, + they looked down into a little glade arched over with great live oaks. In + the middle of the opening they saw, by the light of a low fire, a small + cone-shaped hut. Beside it stood a gigantic figure painted and adorned + with shells, feathers, rattlesnake skins, and necklaces of bone. + </p> + <p> + “Come back,” whispered Payuchi, his teeth chattering with fear. “It is + Chinigchinich himself; he will see us, and we shall die.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” answered Nopal, “it is only Nihie, the medicine man. He looks so + tall because of his headdress. It is made of framework of dried tules + covered with feathers and fish bladders. I saw it one day in his jacal, + and it is as tall as I am. That jacal beside him is the vanquech [temple], + and I think there is something awful there. You see if there isn’t. Hush, + now! Squat down. Here they come.” + </p> + <p> + In a procession the men came into the opening, and, stalking solemnly by, + each cast down at the door of the temple an offering of some object which + he prized. Cuchuma gave a bone knife which he greatly valued, and a + handsome new bow. Sholoc gave a speckled green stone olla from Santa + Catalina and a small string of money; but these were chiefs’ offerings. + The other gifts were simpler—shells, acorn meal, baskets, birds’ + skins, but always something for which the owner cared. + </p> + <p> + At last the medicine man, satisfied with the things offered which became + his own when the ceremony was over, stooped and drew forth the sacred + emblem from the temple. It was not even an idol, only a fetich composed of + a sack made from the skin of a coyote, the head carefully preserved and + stuffed, while the body was dressed smooth of hair and adorned with + hanging shells and tufts of birds’ feathers. A bundle of arrows protruded + from the open mouth, giving it a fierce appearance. While Nihie held it + up, the men circled round once again, this time more rapidly, and as they + passed the medicine man, each gave a spring into the air, shooting an + arrow upward with all his force. When the last man had disappeared under + the trees, Nihie replaced the skin in the temple, put out the fire, and, + singing a kind of chant, he led the men back to their jacals. The boys + stood up. Payuchi shivered and drew a long breath. + </p> + <p> + “We must get away now; Nihie will be back soon to get the offerings,” said + Nopal. + </p> + <p> + “But first we must offer our gifts, or Chinigchinich will be angry,” said + Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “Come on, then,” said the brother; so, stealing softly down the hillside, + the boys cast their offerings on the pile in front of the hut and ran + away, taking a roundabout path home, that they might not meet the medicine + man returning. + </p> + <p> + “We must hurry to get in the jacal before father,” said Nopal, suddenly. + “I didn’t think of that. Run, Payuchi, run faster.” But they were in time + after all, and were stretched out on their mats some minutes before their + father and Sholoc came in. + </p> + <p> + Macana’s first duty in the morning was to attend to the baby, whose + wide-open black eyes gave the only sign that it was awake. She unfastened + it from the basket and unwrapped it, rubbing the little body over with its + morning bath of grease until the firm skin shone as if varnished. When it + had nursed and was comfortable, she put the little one back in its cradle + basket, which she leaned up against the side of the hut, where the little + prisoner might see all that was going on. + </p> + <p> + Instead of the usual breakfast of acorn meal mush, the children had a + plentiful meal of fish which their mother had saved from the feast of the + night before. + </p> + <p> + “I didn’t think any one could catch so many fish as uncle brought last + night,” said Cleeta, as she helped herself to a piece of yellowtail. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, they do, though,” said Payuchi. “Last night, after supper, uncle + told the men some fine stories. I think he has been in places which none + of our people have ever seen. + </p> + <p> + “He told us that once he journeyed many moons toward the land of snow and + ice until he came to the country of the Klamath tribe, where he stayed a + long time. He said that when they fish they drive posts made of young + trees into the bottom of the river and then weave willow boughs in and out + until there is a wall of posts and boughs clear across the stream. Then + the big red fish come up from the great water into the river. They come, + uncle said, so many no one can count them, and the ones behind push + against those in front until they are all crowded against the wall, and + then the Klamath men catch them with spears and nets until there is food + enough for all, and many fish to dry.” + </p> + <p> + “I should like to see that. What else did he tell you?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “He said he visited one place where the great salt water comes into the + land and is so big it takes many days to journey round it. Here the people + eat fish, clams, and mussels instead of acorns and roots. On the shore + they have their feasting ground where they go to eat and dance and tell + big stories, and; sometimes to make an offering. So many people go there, + uncle said, that the shells they have left make a hill, a hill just of + shells that is many steps high. From the top of it one may look over the + water, which is so long no eye can see the end of it.” + </p> + <p> + “What else did you hear?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing more, for mother called me,” replied her brother. “I should like + to hear more of those stories, though.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother,” asked Gesnip, as she finished her breakfast, “when am I to begin + to braid mats for the new jacal?” + </p> + <p> + “Soon,” replied Macana. “This morning you and Payuchi must gather the + tule. Have a large pile when I come home.” So saying, the mother strapped + the baby on her back and, accompanied by the younger children, went out + with other women of the tribe to gather the white acorns from the oaks on + the highlands pear the mountains. + </p> + <p> + The December wind, from the snow-capped peaks, chilled and cut with its + icy breath their scantily clothed bodies, but for hours they worked + picking up the scattered nuts. The labors of an Indian mother ceased only + while she slept. + </p> + <p> + “Come, Payuchi,” said Gesnip, “let us go down to the river and get tules.” + </p> + <p> + “All right,” replied the boy, readily. “Sholoc is going down too. He is + going to show the men how to make log canoes like his instead of the tule + canoes our people use. But I like the tule canoes, because I can use my + feet for paddles.” When they reached the river, which was really a lagoon + or arm of the sea, the children stopped to watch the men at work. A large + log, washed down from the mountains by some flood, lay on the bank. It was + good hard wood, and the children saw that it was smoking in three places. + </p> + <p> + “This is going to make two canoes, but neither one will be so big, as + uncle’s,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “How can it make two canoes if they burn it up?” asked his sister. + </p> + <p> + “You are stupid, Gesnip,” said her brother. “Don’t you see they are + burning it to separate it into two parts? Then they will burn each log + into the shape of a boat, finishing it up with axes of bone or horn. Uncle + told me how they did it.” + </p> + <p> + “Why have they put the green bark on the top of the log?” + </p> + <p> + “I think it is to keep it from burning along the edge; don’t you see? And + then there are wider pieces to protect it at the ends. See how they watch + the fire and beat it out in one place and then in another.” + </p> + <p> + “Why does it burn so fast?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Because they have daubed it with pitch. Can’t you smell it?” said the + boy, sniffing. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I can smell it,” replied his sister. “But come now and help me + gather tules. Father is going to burn down our house and build a new one + for winter, and I must make a tule rug for each one of you for beds in the + new home. It will take a great many tule stems.” + </p> + <p> + “It is cold to wade,” said Payuchi, stepping into the water at the edge of + the river. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” answered Gesnip, “I don’t like to gather tules in winter.” + </p> + <p> + The children pulled up the long rough stems one by one until they had a + large pile. + </p> + <p> + “I think we have enough,” said Payuchi, after they had been working about + two hours. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I think so too,” said his sister. “My back aches, my hands are sore, + and my feet are so cold.” Payuchi brought some wild grapevine with which + he tied the tule into two bundles, fastening the larger upon his sister’s + back; for with his people the women and girls were the burden bearers, and + a grown Indian would not do any work that his wife could possibly do for + him. + </p> + <p> + After they had traveled a little way on the homeward path, Gesnip stopped. + </p> + <p> + “Don’t go so fast, Payuchi,” she begged. “This bundle is so large it + nearly tumbles me over.” + </p> + <p> + “Just hurry a little until we get to the foot of the hill yonder where + Nopal and the other big boys are playing, and you can rest while I watch + the game,” answered her brother. Gesnip struggled on, bending under the + weight and size of her awkward burden until, with a sigh of relief, she + seated herself on a stone to rest while Payuchi, throwing his bundle on + the ground, stood up to watch the boys. + </p> + <p> + “See, Nopal is It,” he said. Nopal, coming forward, stooped low and rolled + a hoop along the ground, which the boys had pounded smooth and hard for + the game. + </p> + <p> + As the hoop rolled another boy stepped forward and tried to throw a stick + through it, but failed. Then all the players pointed their fingers at him + and grunted in scorn. Again Nopal rolled the hoop, and this time the boy + threw through the ring, and all the boys, and Payuchi too, gave whoops of + delight. + </p> + <p> + The children watched the game until Gesnip said that they must go on, for + their mother would be home and want them. When they returned, Macana was + warming herself by the fire where the men were sitting. + </p> + <p> + “See our tule; is it not a great deal?” asked the children, showing their + bundles. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, but not enough,” replied their mother. “You will have to go out + another day.” + </p> + <p> + The women, who had been working all the morning gathering acorns, now + squatted near the fire and began grinding up the nuts which had been + already dried. + </p> + <p> + “Gesnip,” called her mother, “bring me the grinding stones.” The girl went + to the jacal and brought two stones, one a heavy bowlder with a hollow in + its top, which had been made partly by stone axes, but more by use; the + other stone fitted into this hollow. + </p> + <p> + “Now bring me the basket of roasted grasshoppers,” said the mother. Taking + a handful of grasshoppers, Macana put them into the hollow in the larger + stone, and with the smaller stone rubbed them to a coarse powder. This + powder she put into a small basket which Gesnip brought her. + </p> + <p> + “I am glad we caught the grasshoppers. They taste better than acorn meal + mush,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “How many grasshoppers there are in the fall,” said Gesnip, “and so many + rabbits, too.” + </p> + <p> + “We had such a good time at the rabbit drive,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “And such a big feast afterwards, nearly as good as last night,” said + Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Tell me about the rabbit drive,” said Cleeta, squatting down beside the + children in front of the fire. + </p> + <p> + “It was in the big wash up the river toward the mountains,” began Payuchi. + “You have seen the rabbits running to hide in a bunch of grass and cactus + when you go with mother to the mountains for acorns, haven’t you?” + </p> + <p> + Cleeta nodded. “Not this winter, though. We saw only two to-day,” she + said. + </p> + <p> + “That is because of the drive,” said her brother. “It was in the + afternoon, with the wind blowing from the ocean, and all the men who could + shoot best with bow and arrow, or throw the spear well, stood on the other + side of the wash.” + </p> + <p> + “Father was there,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, and many others,” said Payuchi. “Then some of the men and all of us + boys got green branches of trees and came down on this side of the wash. + Nopal started the fire. It burned along in the grass slowly at first, and + when it came too near the jacals on one side or the woods on the other, we + would beat it out with the branches, but soon it ran before the wind into + the cactus and bunch grass. The rabbits were frightened out and ran from + the fire as fast as they could, and in a few minutes they were right at + the feet of father and the other hunters. They killed forty before the + smoke made them run too.” + </p> + <p> + “My dress was made of their skin,” said the little girl, smoothing her + gown lovingly. “It keeps me so warm.” + </p> + <p> + “Did the fire burn long?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “No, we beat it out, or it would have gone up the wash into the live oaks; + then we boys should have been well punished for our carelessness.” + </p> + <p> + Here their mother called to them. + </p> + <p> + “Payuchi,” she said, “put away this basket of grasshopper meal. And, + Gesnip, go to the jacal and find me the coils for basket weaving.” + </p> + <p> + “What shall I bring?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “The large bundle of chippa that is soaking in a basket, and the big coil + of yellow kah-hoom and the little one of black tsuwish which are hanging + up, and bring me my needle and bone awl.” + </p> + <p> + “Do you want the coil of millay?” + </p> + <p> + “No, I shall need no red to-day.” + </p> + <p> + Squatted on the ground, where she could feel the warmth of the fire on her + back, but where the heat could not dry her basket materials, Macana began + her work. Taking a dripping chippa, or willow bough, from the basket where + it had been soaking, she dried it on leaves and wound it tightly in a + close coil the size of her thumbnail, then spatted it together until it + seemed no longer a cord, but a solid piece of wood. Thus she made the base + of her basket; then, threading her needle, which was but a horny cactus + stem set in a head of hardened pitch, she stitched in and out over the + upper and under the lower layer, drawing her thread firmly each time. The + thread was the creamy, satin-like kah-hoom. Round and round she coiled the + chippa, the butt of one piece overlapping the tip of another, while with + her needle she covered all with the smoothly drawn kah-hoom. After a time + she laid the kah-hoom aside for a stitch or two of the black root of the + tule, called tsuwish. + </p> + <p> + The children had watched the starting of the basket, then had begun a game + of match, with white and black pebbles. After a time Gesnip, looking up + from her play, exclaimed, as she saw the black diamond pattern the weaver + was making:— + </p> + <p> + “Mother, why are you weaving a rattlesnake basket?” + </p> + <p> + “I am making it to please Chinigchinich that he may smile upon me and + guard you, children, and Cuchuma from the bite of the rattlesnake. There + are so many of them here this year, and I fear for you.” + </p> + <p> + “Thank you, mother,” said Gesnip. “If Titas’s mother had made a black + diamond basket, maybe the snake would not have bitten her.” + </p> + <p> + “I think Chinigchinich does smile upon you,” said Payuchi, “for when we + were so hungry in the month of roots [October] you wove him the hunting + basket with the pattern of deer’s antlers, trimmed with quail feathers, + and see how much food we have had: first the rabbits, then the + grasshoppers, and now the fish and elk.” + </p> + <p> + “While you work tell us how the first baby basket was made,” begged + Cleeta. The mother nodded; and as she wound and pressed closely the moist + chippa, and the cactus needle flew in and out with the creamy kah-hoom or + the black tsuwish, she told the story. + </p> + <p> + “When the mother of all made the basket for the first man child, she used + a rainbow for the wood of the back of the basket, with stars woven in each + side, and straight lightning down the middle in front. Sunbeams shining on + a far-away rain storm formed the fringe in front, where we use strips of + buckskin, and the carry straps were brightest sunbeams.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother, you left out that the baby was wrapped in a soft purple cloud + from the mountains,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, in a purple cloud of evening, wrapped so he could not move leg or + arm, but would grow straight and beautiful,” said the mother. + </p> + <p> + For a long while the children watched in silence the patient fingers at + their work; then Gesnip asked, “Is it true, mother, that when you were a + little child your father and mother and many of your tribe died of + hunger?” + </p> + <p> + “It is true,” replied Macana, sadly, “but who told you?” + </p> + <p> + “Old Cotopacnic, but I thought it was one of his dreams. Why were you all + so hungry?” asked the girl. + </p> + <p> + “Because the rain failed for three seasons. After a time there was no + grass, no acorns, the rabbits and deer died or wandered away, the streams + dried up so there were no fish, the ground became so dry that there were + no more grubs or worms of any kind, no grasshoppers. There was nothing to + eat but roots. Nearly all our tribe died, and many other people, too.” + </p> + <p> + “How did you live?” asked Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “My aunt had married a chief whose home was in a rich valley in the + mountains where it is always green. She came down to see my mother, and + when she found how hard it was to get food for us all, she took me by the + hand and tumbled Sholoc who was smaller than little Nakin, into her great + seed basket and took us off to the mountains until times should grow + better; but the rains did not come until it was too late. I stayed with + her until I married your father. Sholoc became a great hunter, then chief + of the people of Santa Catalina, where he became a great fisherman also.” + </p> + <p> + The children looked grave. + </p> + <p> + “Do you think such bad seasons can ever come again?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Who can tell?” replied the mother, with a sigh. “Last year was very bad + and there is little rain yet this year. That is why the men offered gifts + to Chinigchinich last night.” + </p> + <p> + “Nobody must take me away from you to keep me from being hungry,” said + gentle Cleeta, hiding her face in her mother’s lap. + </p> + <p> + “If I were Chinigchinich,” said Payuchi, “I would not let so many people + die, just because they needed a little more rain. I would not be that kind + of a god.” + </p> + <p> + “Hush, my child,” said the mother, sternly. “He will hear and punish you. + If it is our fate, we must bend to it.” + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter III. — “The Secret of the Strait” + </h2> + <p> + Cabrillo + </p> + <p> + One afternoon in September, in the year 1542, two broad, clumsy ships, + each with the flag of Spain flying above her many sails, were beating + their way up the coast of southern California. All day the vessels had + been wallowing in the choppy seas, driven about by contrary winds. At last + the prow of the leading ship was turned toward shore, where there seemed + to be an opening that might lead to a good harbor. At the bow of the ship + stood the master of the expedition, the tanned, keen-faced captain, Juan + Rodriguez Cabrillo. He was earnestly watching the land before him, which + was still some distance away. + </p> + <p> + “Come hither, Juan,” he called to a sturdy lad, about sixteen, who, with + an Indian boy, brought from Mexico as interpreter, was also eagerly + looking landward. “Your eyes should be better than mine. Think you there + is a harbor beyond that point?” + </p> + <p> + “It surely seems so to me, sir,” answered the boy; “and Pepe, whose eyes, + you know, are keener than ours, says that he can plainly see the + entrance.” + </p> + <p> + “I trust he is right; for this thickening weather promises a storm, and a + safe harbor would be a gift of God to us weary ones this night,” said the + captain, with a sigh. + </p> + <p> + Since the fair June day when they had sailed out of the harbor on the west + shore of Mexico, they had been following first up the coast line of the + Peninsula, then of Upper California. No maps or charts of the region + showing where lay good harbors or dangerous rocks, could be found in + Cabrillo’s cabin. Instead, there were maps of this South Sea which + pictured terrible dangers for mariners—great whirlpools which could + suck down whole fleets of vessels, and immense waterfalls, where it was + thought the whole ocean poured off the end of the land into space. A brave + man was Captain Cabrillo, for, half believing these stories, he yet sailed + steadily on, determined, no matter what happened to himself, to do his + duty to the king under whose flag he sailed, and to the viceroy of Mexico, + whose funds had furnished the expedition. + </p> + <p> + California has ever been noted for its brave men, but none have been more + courageous than this explorer, who was probably the first white man to set + his foot upon its soil. As the ship approached land the crew became + silent, every eye being turned anxiously to the opening of the passage + which appeared before them. The vessel, driven by the stiff breeze, rushed + on, almost touching the rock at one point. Then, caught by a favorable + current, it swept into mid-channel, where it moved rapidly forward, until + at length it rode safely in the harbor now known as San Diego Bay. + </p> + <p> + “It is a good port and well inclosed,” said Juan Cabrillo, with great + satisfaction, gazing out upon the broad sheet of quiet water. “We will + name it for our good San Miguel, to whom our prayers for a safe anchorage + were offered this morning.” Then, when the two ships were riding at + anchor, the commander ordered out the boats. + </p> + <p> + “We will see what kind of people these are, dodging behind the bushes + yonder,” said he. As the Spaniards drew near shore they could see many + fleeing figures. + </p> + <p> + “What a pity they are so afraid,” said Cabrillo. “If we are to learn + anything of the country, we must teach them that we mean them no harm.” + </p> + <p> + “Master,” said Pepe, “there are three of them hiding behind those bushes.” + </p> + <p> + “Is it so, lad? Then go you up to them. They will not fear you.” So the + Indian boy walked slowly forward, holding out his hands with his palms + upward, which not only let the natives see that he was unarmed, but in the + sign language meant peace and friendship. As he drew near to them an old + man and two younger ones, dressed in scanty shirts of rabbit-skins, came + from their hiding places and began to talk to Pepe, but, though they also + were Indians, they did not speak his language. Some of their words were + evidently similar to his, and by these and the help of signs he partly + understood what they said. Presently he returned to the group on shore. + </p> + <p> + “They say there are Spaniards back in the country a few days’ journey from + here.” + </p> + <p> + “Spaniards? That is impossible,” returned Cabrillo. + </p> + <p> + “They say that they are bearded, wear clothes like yours, and have white + faces,” answered the boy, simply. + </p> + <p> + “They must be mistaken, or perhaps you did not understand them fully,” + said the master. “At another time we will question them further. Now, give + them this present of beads and hurry back, for it is late.” + </p> + <p> + That night some of the men from the ships went on shore to fish. While + they were drawing their nets, the Indians stole up softly and discharged + their arrows, wounding three. The boy Juan had the most serious injury, an + arrow being so deeply embedded in his shoulder that it could not be + removed until they reached the ship. There the padre, who, like most + priests of that day, knew something of surgery, drew it out, and bound up + the shoulder in soothing balsams. + </p> + <p> + On the second day of their stay in port the wind began to blow from the + southwest; the waves grew rough, and Cabrillo ordered the ships to be made + ready for the tempest, which soon became violent. Meantime, Juan lay + suffering in his hammock, which swung backward and forward with the motion + of the ship. Suddenly he heard a step beside him and felt a cool hand on + his forehead. + </p> + <p> + “How goes it, lad?” said Cabrillo, for it was the master himself. “You are + suffering in a good cause. Have courage; you will soon be well. Remember, + you have helped to discover a harbor, the like of which is seldom found. + This storm is a severe one. I can hear the surf booming on the farther + shore, yet our ship shows no strain on the anchor. Good harbor though it + is, I am sorely disappointed, as I had hoped it was the entrance to the + strait, the strait that seems a phantom flying before us as we go, drawing + us onward to we know not what.” The sadness of the captain’s voice + troubled Juan. + </p> + <p> + “Master,” he asked earnestly, “what is the strait? I hear of it often, yet + no one can tell me what it is, or where it lies.” + </p> + <p> + “Because no one knows,” answered the captain, rising. “I am needed on + deck, but I will send old Tomas to tell you its strange story.” + </p> + <p> + “The secret of the strait,” said old Tomas, as he seated himself beside + Juan, “has led many men to gallant deeds and also many a man to a gallant + death. Always, since as a lad I first went to sea, the merchants of many + lands have been seeking a safe and speedy way of reaching the Indies, + where are found such foods, spices, and jewels as one sees nowhere else in + the world. + </p> + <p> + “My father and grandfather used to travel with caravans overland to and + from India. There are several routes, each controlled by some one of the + great Italian cities, but all have somewhere to cross the desert, where + the trains are often robbed by wild tribes. Sometimes, as they come nearer + home, they are held by the Turks for heavy tribute, with such loss that + the merchants have been forced to turn to the sea in hopes that a better + way might be found. It was while searching for this route that Columbus + discovered the new world, and when the news of his success was brought + back to Europe there was great rejoicing, because it was thought that he + had reached some part of India. Magellan’s voyage, however, destroyed + these hopes. He sailed for months down the eastern shore of the new land, + and discovered, far away to the south, a strait through which he reached + the great South Sea, but then he still sailed on for nearly a year before + he came to the Spice Islands and Asia. + </p> + <p> + “Now every one believes that somewhere through this land to the north of + us there is a wide, deep sea passage from the North Sea [Atlantic] to the + South Sea [Pacific], by which ships may speedily reach India. This passage + is called the Strait of Anian. + </p> + <p> + “The great captain, Hernando Cortez, the conqueror of New Spain [Mexico] + spent many years and a large fortune seeking for this water way. Four + different expeditions he sent out to explore this coast: most of them at + his own cost. In the second one his pilot, Jiminez, led a mutiny, murdered + his captain, and afterward discovered, accidentally, the southern point of + this land we are now exploring. But it was not the good fortune of the + noble Cortez to discover the strait. Our captain is the next to take up + the search, and may God send him success.” + </p> + <p> + After a stay of nearly a week in the bay of San Diego, Cabrillo continued + his voyage up the coast, sailing by day, anchoring at night. He touched at + an island which he named San Salvador, but which we know as Santa + Catalina. Here, by his kind and generous treatment, he won the friendship + of the natives. From this beautiful spot, he sailed, one Sunday morning, + to the mainland. Entering the Bay of San Pedro, he found it enveloped in + smoke. + </p> + <p> + “It seems a fair port,” said the commander, “but go no farther inland. + Drop anchor while we can see our way. We may well call this the Bay of + Smokes.” The fires, they found, had been started by the Indians to drive + the rabbits from shelter, so they could be the more easily killed. + </p> + <p> + Sailing on, the ships anchored off a thickly settled valley, where the + town of Ventura now lies. Here, on October 12, 1542, Cabrillo and his + company went on shore and took solemn possession of the land in the name + of the king of Spain and the viceroy of Mexico. Here, and along the + channel, the people were better-looking, more comfortably lodged and + clothed, than those farther south. They also had good canoes, which the + natives of the lower coast did not possess. Pushing on, the explorer saw + and noted the channel islands and rounded Point Conception. From here he + was driven back by contrary winds, and toward nightfall of a stormy day + found himself near the little island now named San Miguel. + </p> + <p> + “We will call it La Posesion and take it for our own,” said Cabrillo, + “for, if we can but make it, there seems to be a good harbor here.” The + storm, however, grew more severe. The sea rose until occasionally the + waves swept over the smaller ship, which was without a deck. Here occurred + a most unhappy accident. Something about the ship, a spar probably, + loosened by the storm, fell and struck the brave commander, breaking his + arm. Although severely injured, he would not have the wounds dressed + until, after a long period of anxiety, the two ships entered in safety the + little harbor of San Miguel. + </p> + <p> + Here, stormbound, they remained for a week. When they ventured forth, they + again met with high winds and bad weather. Cabrillo, who in spite of + discouragements never forgot his search for the strait, pushed close + inshore and kept much of the time on deck looking for some signs of a + river or passage. One morning at daybreak, after a rough night, they found + themselves drifting in an open bay. + </p> + <p> + “It is a fine roadstead,” said Cabrillo, coming on deck, as the sun rose + over the pine-covered hills. “Were it smaller, it would be a welcome + harbor. We will name it from those majestic trees La Bahia de Pinos, and + yonder long projection we will call the Cabo de Pinos.” That bay is now + called Monterey, but the cape still bears the name given it by this first + explorer. + </p> + <p> + Anchoring in forty-five fathoms of water, they tried to go on shore, in + order to take possession of the land, but the sea was so rough that they + could not launch their boats. The next day they discovered and named some + mountains which they called Sierra Nevada, and, sailing on, went as far + north as about 40¼. But this winter voyage was made at a great sacrifice. + The exposure and hardships, following the wound he had received, were too + much for even the hardy sailor Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo. After weeks of + struggle with storms, the ships were forced back to their old shelter at + San Miguel. Here Christmas week was spent, but a sad holiday it was to the + explorers, for their brave leader lay dying. Nobly had he done his duty up + to the last. + </p> + <p> + “Juan,” he said, to his young attendant, on Christmas Eve, “how gladly the + bells will be ringing in Lisbon to-night. I seem to hear them now. They + drive out all other sounds. Call Ferrelo and let no one else come but the + padre.” Very soon Juan returned with Cabrillo’s first assistant, the + pilot, Ferrelo, a brave navigator and a just man. + </p> + <p> + “Ferrelo,” said Cabrillo, faintly, “Death calls me, and the duty I lay + down you must take up. I command you to push the expedition northward at + all hazards, and to keep such records as are necessary in order that + fitting account of our voyage shall be given to the world. Will you + promise me to do this?” + </p> + <p> + “I will, my master,” said Ferrelo, simply. “To the best of my ability will + I take up your work.” + </p> + <p> + “Always looking for the strait, Ferrelo?” + </p> + <p> + “Always, senor.” + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of January, 1543, the brave man died and was buried in the sands + of Cuyler Harbor on San Miguel Island. His men called the island Juan + Rodriguez. This name was afterwards dropped, but California should see to + it that the island is rechristened in honor of the great sailor who sleeps + there. + </p> + <p> + Ferrelo later succeeded in sailing as far north as Cape Mendocino and + perhaps as far as 42¡, but, though he kept as close to the shore as + possible, he failed to discover the great bay whose waters, spreading like + a sheet of silver over sixty miles of country, lay hidden just behind the + Golden Gate. Near the Oregon line he was driven back by storms, and + returned to Mexico, where he published a full account of the voyage. + </p> + <p> + Drake + </p> + <p> + In the town of Offenburg, Germany, there is a statue of a man standing on + the deck of a ship, leaning against an anchor, his right hand grasping a + map of America, his left, a cluster of bulbous roots. On the pedestal is + the inscription, “Sir Francis Drake, the introducer of potatoes into + Europe in the year of our Lord 1586.” + </p> + <p> + While it is doubtful whether this honor really belongs to Drake, an + Englishman, seeing the statue, would be inclined to say, “Is this all that + Germany has to tell of the great captain who led our navy against the + Spanish Armada; the first Englishman to sail around the world; the most + daring explorer, clever naval commander, expert seaman, brave soldier, + loyal friend, and gallant enemy of his time?” A Spaniard, on the contrary, + might well exclaim, “Why did Germany erect a statue to this terrible man + whom our poets call Dragontea [Dragon], this greatest of all pirates, this + terror of the sea?” All this, and more, might be said of one man, who + began life as a ship’s boy. + </p> + <p> + At the time Drake first went to sea, England and Spain were by no means + friendly. Henry the Eighth of England had ill-treated his wife, who was a + Spanish princess. In addition he had drawn the English people away from + the Church of Rome. These things were most displeasing to Spain, but there + was still another reason for disagreement. The interests of the two + countries were opposed commercially, and this was the most important cause + of contention. + </p> + <p> + Spain claimed by right of discovery, and gift of the Pope of Rome, all the + land in the new world except Brazil (which belonged to Portugal), and held + that no explorers or tradesmen, other than her own, had any rights on her + waters or in her ports. English seamen denied much of this claim, and so + frequent were the disputes arising upon the subject that the English + sailors adopted as a maxim, “No peace beyond the line,” meaning the line + which was, by the Pope’s decree, the eastern boundary of the Spanish + claim. + </p> + <p> + The favorite prey of the British mariners was the treasure ships carrying + to Spain the precious cargoes of gold and silver from the rich mines of + the new world. With the far richer ships of the Philippine and Indian + trade, sailing on unknown waters, they had not, up to Drake’s time, been + able to interfere. + </p> + <p> + Drake, when a very young man, had joined a trading expedition to Mexico. + While there the English were attacked by the Spanish in what the former + considered a most treacherous manner. Drake’s brother and many of his + comrades were killed, and their goods taken. After the battle he solemnly + vowed to be revenged, and so thoroughly did he carry out his resolution + that he was for years the terror of the Spanish seamen, and, by many of + the superstitious common sailors, believed to be Satan himself come to + earth in human form. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after this unfortunate expedition Drake engaged in a marauding + voyage to Panama, where he captured rich stores of gold and silver and + precious stones. He gained such renown for his bravery and seamanship that + upon coming home he found himself famous. + </p> + <p> + Queen Elizabeth knew that Spain was opposed to her and her religion, and + was not in her heart displeased when her brave seamen got the better of + their Spanish rivals. She received Drake privately, and help was offered + him secretly from people who stood high in the government. With this + encouragement he resolved to embark on a most hazardous and daring + adventure. While in Panama he had seen, from a “high and goodlie tree” on + a mountain side, the great Pacific, and was immediately filled with a + desire to sail on its waters and explore its shores. He therefore + determined to cross the Atlantic, pass through the Strait of Magellan, up + the Pacific, and to plunder the Spanish towns along the coast of South and + Central America, until he should reach the region traversed by the richly + laden Spanish ships coming from India and the Philippines. It is said that + the queen herself put a thousand crowns into this venture. One thing is + certain, that he received sufficient help to fit out five small vessels, + with one hundred and sixty-four men. With these he sailed from Falmouth, + England, in December of 1577. With the exception of perhaps one or two of + the rich men who had helped him, no one, not even his men, knew of his + plans. + </p> + <p> + After a long and interesting voyage in which one vessel was lost and the + others, though he did not know it, had deserted him, he found himself with + but one ship beating his way up the coast of Lower California. This was + his flagship Pelican, which he had rechristened the Golden Hind. It was + then so laden with rich booty, that it was like a hawk which had stolen + too heavy a chicken, driven this way and that by the winds, scarcely able + to reach its nest. + </p> + <p> + In addition to a good store of Chile wines and foods of various kinds, + there were packed away in the hold of the Golden Hind, twenty-five + thousand pesos of gold, eight thousand pounds of English money, and a + great cross of gold with “emeralds near as large as a man’s finger.” From + one vessel Drake had taken one hundred-weight of silver; from a messenger + of the mines, who was sleeping beside a spring on the Peruvian coast, + thirteen bars of solid silver; off the backs of a train of little gray + llamas, the camels of the Andes, eight hundred pounds of silver; and + besides all these were large quantities of gold and silver that were not + recorded in the ship’s list, and stores of pearls, diamonds, emeralds, + silks, and porcelain. + </p> + <p> + The last prize taken was the Spanish treasure ship Cacafuegos. Drake had + transferred its cargo and crew to his own vessel and, for a time, manned + it with some of his men. Its noble commander, St. John de Anton, who had + been wounded in the attack, received every possible attention on the + English vessel, and in the report which he afterwards made to the viceroy + of Mexico, he told of the perfect order and discipline maintained on the + Golden Hind, and of the luxury which surrounded its commander, who was + treated with great reverence by his men. + </p> + <p> + Before sailing on to the northward, Drake restored St. John and his crew + to their vessel. Then, because he feared that they might fall into the + hands of his fleet (having no suspicion that the other captains had + returned home), he gave the Spaniards the following letter, which shows + the great Englishman to have been more honorable than he is oftentimes + represented:— + </p> + <p> + “To Master Weinter and the Masters of the Other Ships of my Fleet: + </p> + <p> + “If it pleaseth God that you should chance to meet with this ship of St. + John de Anton, I pray you use him well according to my promise given him. + If you want to use anything that is in the ship, I pray you pay him double + value for it, which I will satisfy again. And command your men not to do + any harm and what agreement we have made, at my return unto England, I + will, by God’s help, perform, although I am in doubt that this letter will + ever come to your hand, notwithstanding I am the man I have promised to + be. + </p> + <p> + “Beseeching God, the Saviour of the world, to have us all in his keeping, + to whom I give all honor, praise, and glory, + </p> + <p> + “Your sorrowful captain, whose heart is heavy for you, + </p> + <p> + “Francis Drake.” + </p> + <p> + How to get home was the problem which this daring man had now to solve. + There was no possibility of returning by the way he had come. He well knew + that the news of his departure had reached Spain, and that her war ships + would be waiting for him, not only at the eastern entrance of the Strait + of Magellan, but at the Isthmus and in the Caribbean Sea. + </p> + <p> + If by sailing northward he could find the Strait of Anian, then his + homeward journey would be safe and short; but if he could not find that + illusive body of water, then there was left to him but the Pacific for a + highway. However, this did not daunt him, as he felt that what the + Portuguese Magellan had done, Drake the Englishman could do. + </p> + <p> + Keeping well out from shore, the Golden Hind now sailed northward for + nearly two months. Drake passed just west of the Farallon Islands, never + dreaming of the great harbor which lay so short a distance on the other + side. He traveled as far north as latitude 42¡ or possibly 43¡, and + perhaps he even landed at one point, but he failed to find the strait. + According to Fletcher, the priest of the Church of England who kept a + journal of the expedition, they were finally forced by the extreme cold to + turn southward. “Here,” says Fletcher, “it pleased God on this 17th day of + June, 1579, to send us, in latitude 38¡, a convenient fit harbor.” This is + now supposed to be Drakes Bay, which lies thirty miles northwest of San + Francisco, in Marin county. + </p> + <p> + “In this bay we anchored, and the people of the country having their + houses close to the waterside showed themselves unto us and sent presents + to our general. He, in return, courteously treated them and liberally + bestowed upon them things necessary to cover their nakedness. + </p> + <p> + “Their houses are digged around about with earth and have for the brim of + that circle, clefts of wood set upon the ground and joined closely + together at the top like the spire of a steeple, which by reason of this + closeness are very warm. The men go naked, but the women make themselves + loose garments knit about the middle, while over their shoulders they wear + the skin of a deer.” + </p> + <p> + These people brought presents and seemed to want to offer sacrifices to + the strangers as gods, but Drake, hastily calling his men together, held + divine services, “To which, especially the prayers and music,” says + Fletcher, “they were most attentive and seemed to be greatly affected.” + The Bible used by Drake in this service is still to be seen in Nut Hall + House, Devonshire, England. + </p> + <p> + Presently a messenger came, saying that the king wished to visit them if + they would assure him of their peaceful intentions. Drake sent him + presents, then marched his force into a kind of fort he had had made in + which to place such parts of the cargo as it was necessary to remove in + order to careen the ship for repairing. The coming of the chief is thus + described:— + </p> + <p> + “He came in princely majesty. In the fore-front was a man of goodly + personage who bore the scepter whereon was hung two crowns with chains of + marvelous length. The crowns were made of knit-work wrought with feathers + of divers colors, the chains being made of bony substances. + </p> + <p> + “Next came the king with his guard, all well clothed in connie skins, then + the naked common people with faces painted, each bearing some presents. + After ceremonies consisting of speeches and dances, they offered one of + the crowns to Drake, who, accepting in the name of Elizabeth, allowed it + to be placed on his head.” + </p> + <p> + While the men were busy cleaning and repairing the ship, the commander and + his officers made excursions into the interior, visiting many Indian towns + and passing through wide plains where vast herds of deer, often one + thousand or more, all large and fat, were feeding on the rich grasses. + They also saw great numbers of what they called connies, which, from their + description, must have been ground squirrels, or else some variety of + animal now extinct. The country Drake named New Albion, partly from its + white cliffs, which resembled those of his native land, and partly in + belief that it would be easier to lay claim to the country if it bore one + of the names applied to England. + </p> + <p> + “When the time came for our departure,” continued Fletcher in his journal, + “our general set up a monument of our being here, so also, of her + majesty’s right and title to the land: namely a plate nailed upon a fair + great post, whereon was engraved her majesty’s name, the day and year of + our arrival, with the giving up of the province and people into her + majesty’s hands, together with her highness’ picture and arms in a + sixpence under the plate, whereunder was also written the name of our + general.” + </p> + <p> + Fletcher seemed not to know of Cabrillo’s voyage, for he claimed that no + one had ever discovered land in this region, or for many degrees to the + south; while in fact Ferrelo with Cabrillo’s ships had sailed as far north + as latitude 42¡, although we have no reason to think that he landed in a + higher latitude than that of Point Conception and San Miguel Island. + </p> + <p> + Once again solemn religious services were held by the Englishmen on the + hospitable soil that had been their home for over a month. Then they went + on board the ship, accompanied to the shore by the grieving Indians, who + would not be comforted when they saw their new friends forsaking them. It + was near the last of July in 1579 that Captain Drake with his brave men + began his wonderful homeward voyage. + </p> + <p> + It was a triumphant return they made in September, a year later. Crowds + flocked to see the famous ship and its gallant commander. + </p> + <p> + Some of the queen’s statesmen strongly disapproved of Drake’s attack upon + Spanish towns and vessels, and felt he should be arrested and tried for + piracy; but the common people cheered him wherever he went, and as a + crowning honor, in the luxurious cabin of his good ship Golden Hind, he + was visited by the great Elizabeth herself. When the banquet was over, at + the queen’s command, he bent his knee before her, and this sovereign, who, + though a woman, dearly loved such courage and daring as he had displayed, + tapped him on the shoulder and bade him arise “Sir Francis Drake.” + </p> + <p> + Galli and Carmenon + </p> + <p> + In 1584 Francisco Galli, commanding a Philippine ship, returning to Mexico + by way of Japan, sighted the coast of California in latitude 37¡ 30’. He + saw, as he reported, “a high and fair land with no snow and many trees, + and in the sea, drifts of roots, reeds, and leaves.” Some of the latter he + gathered and cooked with meat for his men, who were no doubt suffering + from scurvy. + </p> + <p> + Galli wrote of the point where he first saw the coast as Cape Mendocino, + which would seem to imply that the point had been discovered and named at + some previous time, of which, however, there is no record. + </p> + <p> + In 1595 Sebastian Carmenon, commanding the ship San Agustin, coming from + the Philippines, was given royal orders to make some explorations on the + coast of California, probably to find a suitable harbor for Manila + vessels. In doing so he was so unfortunate as to run his vessel ashore + behind Point Reyes, and to lighten her was obliged to leave behind a + portion of his cargo, consisting of wax and silks in boxes. There is only + the briefest record of this voyage, and no report of any discoveries. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino + </p> + <p> + Almost sixty years after the voyage of Cabrillo, came a royal order from + the king of Spain to the viceroy of Mexico which, translated from the + Spanish, ran something like this:— + </p> + <p> + “Go, search the northern coast of the Californias, until you find a good + and sufficient harbor wherein my Manila galleons may anchor safe and + protected, and where may be founded a town that my scurvy-stricken sailors + may find the fresh food necessary for their relief. Furthermore, spare no + expense.” + </p> + <p> + The destruction of Spanish shipping by Drake and other English seamen who + followed his example, had caused great anxiety to the Spaniards and was + partly the reason for this order. + </p> + <p> + “Send for Don Sebastian,” said the viceroy. “He is a brave gentleman and + good sailor. He shall carry out the order of the king.” But it took time + to fit out such an expedition, and it was not until an afternoon in May, + 1602, that Don Sebastian Vizcaino, on his flagship, the San Diego, sailed + out of the harbor of Acapulco into the broad Pacific. Closely following + him were his other ships, the San Thomas and Tres Reyes. + </p> + <p> + There had been solemn services at the cathedral that afternoon. Officers + and men had taken of the holy communion; and now their wives and children + stood on the island at the entrance of the harbor, watching the white + sails as they grew fainter and fainter and at last disappeared in the haze + of the coming night. + </p> + <p> + Then the watchers returned to their lonely homes with heavy hearts, for in + those days few came back who sailed out on the great South Sea. Storms, + battles with the natives, and scurvy made sad havoc among the sailors. + </p> + <p> + Early in November Vizcaino entered “a famous port,” which he named San + Diego, finding it, as Padre Ascension’s journal says, “beautiful and very + grand, and all parts of it very convenient shelter from the winds.” After + leaving San Diego, the next anchoring place was the island named by + Vizcaino for Santa Catalina, on whose feast day his ships entered the + pretty little harbor of Avalon. + </p> + <p> + The Spaniards were greatly pleased with the island and also with the + people, whom they described as being a large-figured, light-complexioned + race; all, men, women, and children, being well clothed in sealskins. They + had large dwellings, many towns, and fine canoes. What struck Padre + Ascension most strongly was their temple, of which he says: “There was in + the temple a large level court, and about this a circle surrounded by + feather work of different colors taken from various birds which I + understand had been sacrificed to their idols. Within this circle was the + figure of a demon painted in color after the manner of the Indians of New + Spain. On its sides were figures of the sun and moon. + </p> + <p> + “It so fell out that when our soldiers came up from the ships to view the + temple, there were in the circle two immense ravens, far larger than + ordinary. When the men arrived, they flew away to some rocks that were + near by, and the soldiers seeing how large they were, raised their + arquebuses and killed them both. Then did the Indians begin to weep and + make great lamentation. I understand that the devil was accustomed to + speak to them, through these birds, for which they showed great respect.” + </p> + <p> + There were in the island quantities of edible roots of a variety of the + yucca called gicamas, and many little bulbs which the Spanish called + “papas pequenos” (little potatoes). These, the padre said, the Indians + took in their canoes over to the mainland, thus making their living by + barter. This certainly must have been the beginning of commerce on the + coast. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino entered and named the Bay of San Pedro. To the channel islands he + also gave the names which they now bear. Sailing on, he discovered a river + which he named “Carmelo,” in honor of the Carmelite friars who accompanied + him. The same day the fleet rounded the long cape called “Point Pinos” and + came to anchor in the bay formed by its projection. From here the San + Tomas was sent to Mexico to carry the sick, of whom there were many, and + to bring back fresh supplies. The men who remained were at once set to + work. Some supplied the two ships with wood and water; others built a + chapel of brush near the beach, under a large oak at the roots of which + flowed a spring of delicious water. In this chapel mass was said and the + Te Deum chanted. For over one hundred and fifty years this oak was known, + both in New Spain and at the court of the king, as the “Oak of Vizcaino, + in the Bay of Monterey.” From here Vizcaino wrote to the king of Spain as + follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Among the ports of greater consideration which I have discovered is one + in 30¡ north latitude which I called Monterey, as I wrote to your majesty + in December. It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a + station for ships making the voyage from the Philippines, sailing whence + they make a landfall on this coast. It is sheltered from all winds and in + the immediate vicinity are pines from which masts of any desired size + could be obtained, as well as live oak, white oak, and other woods. There + is a variety of game, great and small. The land has a genial climate and + the waters are good. It is thickly settled by a people whom I find to be + of gentle disposition, and whom I believe can be brought within the fold + of the Holy Gospel and subjugation to your majesty.” + </p> + <p> + This enthusiastic praise of the harbor of Monterey by a man who was + familiar with the port of San Diego, caused much trouble later, as will be + seen in the study of the founding of the missions. + </p> + <p> + Not waiting for the return of the San Tomas, Vizcaino with his two ships + soon sailed northward, and reached a point in about latitude 42¡, which + was probably the northern limit reached by Cabrillo’s ships and only a + little lower than the farthest explorations of Drake. Although Vizcaino + was looking for harbors, he yet passed twice outside the Bay of San + Francisco, the finest on the coast, without discovering it. After his + return to Mexico, Vizcaino endeavored to raise an expedition to found a + settlement at Monterey, even going to Spain to press the matter; but other + schemes were demanding the king’s attention, and he would give neither + thought nor money to affairs in the new world; and so, thoroughly + disheartened Vizcaino returned to Mexico. + </p> + <p> + From this time for over one hundred and fifty years there is no record of + explorations along this coast, either by vessels from Mexico or by those + coming from the Philippines. California seemed again forgotten. + </p> + <p> + This is the story of the few voyages made to the coast of California + previous to its settlement. The first, under Cabrillo, was sent out by the + viceroy Mendoza, who hoped to gain fame and riches by the discovery of the + Strait of Anian, and by finding wealthy countries and cities which were + supposed to exist in the great northwest, about which much was imagined + but nothing known. + </p> + <p> + Drake planned his voyage largely in pursuit of his revenge upon Spain, + partly for the plunder which he hoped to obtain from the Spanish towns and + vessels along the Pacific coast of America, and partly because of his + desire to explore the Pacific Ocean. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino also was expected to search for the strait, but he was especially + sent out to find a good harbor and place for settlement on the California + coast. This was intended in a great measure for the benefit of the + Philippine trade, but also to aid in holding the country for Spain. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IV. — The Cross of Santa Fe + </h2> + <p> + The kings highway which led up from Vera Cruz, the chief port of the + eastern coast of Mexico, to the capital city of New Spain had in the + eighteenth century more history connected with it than any other road in + the new world. Over it had passed Montezuma with all the splendor of his + pagan court. On it, too, had marched and counter marched his grim + conqueror, the great Cortez. Through its white dust had traveled an almost + endless procession of mules and slaves, carrying the treasures of the + mines of Mexico and the rich imports of Manila and India on toward Spain. + </p> + <p> + Over this road there was journeying, one winter day in the year 1749, a + traveler of more importance to the history of the state of California than + any one who had gone before. He was no great soldier or king, only a + priest in the brownish gray cloak of the order of St. Francis. He was + slight in figure, and limped painfully from a sore on his leg, caused, it + is supposed, by the bite of some poisonous reptile. The chance companions + who traveled with him begged him to stop and rest beside a stream, but he + would not. Then, as he grew more weary, they entreated him to seek shelter + in a ranch house near by and give up his journey. + </p> + <p> + “Speak not to me thus. I am determined to continue. I seem to hear voices + of unconverted thousands calling me,” was all the answer he gave. So on + foot, with no luggage but his prayer book, he limped out of sight—the + humble Spanish priest, Junipero Serra. + </p> + <p> + While only a schoolboy, young Serra had been more interested in the Indian + inhabitants of the new world than in boyish pleasure. As he grew older it + became his greatest desire to go to them as a missionary. At eighteen he + became a priest; but it was not until his thirty-sixth year that he gained + the opportunity of which he had so long dreamed, when, in company with a + body of missionaries, among whom were his boyhood friends, Francisco Palou + and Juan Crespi, he landed at Vera Cruz. + </p> + <p> + He was too impatient to begin his new work, to wait for the government + escort which was coming to meet them. So he started out on foot, with only + such companions as he might pick up by the way, to make the long journey + to the city of Mexico. + </p> + <p> + Sixteen years later, attended by a gay company of gentlemen and ladies, + there traveled over this road one of Spain’s wisest statesmen, Jose de + Galvez, whom the king had sent out to look after affairs in the new world. + Flourishing settlements were by this time scattered over a large portion + of Mexico, and even in the peninsula of Lower California there were a + number of missions. It was almost a hundred years before this time that + two Catholic priests of the Society of Jesus had asked permission to found + mission settlements among the Indians of this peninsula. + </p> + <p> + “You may found the missions if you like, but do not look to us for money + to help you,” was the answer returned by the officers of the government. + So the two Jesuit priests set about collecting funds for the work. + </p> + <p> + They were eloquent men, and the people who heard them preach became so + interested in the Indians that they were glad to give. And so, little by + little, this fund grew. As the good work went on, greater gifts poured in. + Whole fortunes were left them, and finally they had a very large sum + carefully invested in the city of Mexico. This was known as the Pius Fund. + From it was taken all the money needed for the founding of the missions of + Lower California; and, many years later, the expenses of founding the + twenty-one missions of Upper California came from the same source. This + fund became the subject of a long dispute between Mexico and the United + States, of which an account is given in Chapter XI. — In 1767 all + the Jesuit priests in New Spain were called back to Europe, and a large + portion of their wealth and missions on the peninsula were given over to + the order of St. Francis, with Junipero Serra at their head. It was + Galvez’s duty to superintend this change, and while he was on his way to + the peninsula for that purpose he was overtaken by an order from the king + of Spain to occupy and fortify the ports of San Diego and Monterey. The + Spanish government had the description of these ports furnished by + Vizcaino in his account of his explorations in Upper and Lower California + over one hundred and sixty years before. + </p> + <p> + The articles of the king’s order were: first, to establish the Catholic + faith; second, to extend Spanish dominion; third, to check the ambitious + schemes of a foreign power; and lastly, to carry out a plan formed by + Philip the Third, as long ago as 1603, for the establishment of a town on + the California coast where there was a harbor suitable for ships of the + Manila trade. + </p> + <p> + Galvez at once proceeded to organize four expeditions for the settlement + of Upper California, two by land, two by sea. Captain Portola, governor of + the peninsula, was put in command, with good leaders under him. Still, + Galvez was not satisfied. + </p> + <p> + “This is all very well,” he said; “these men will obey my orders, but they + do not care much whether this land is settled or not, and if + discouragements arise, back they will come, and I shall have the whole + thing to do over again. I must find some one who is interested in the + work, some one who will not find anything impossible. I think I shall send + for that lame, pale-faced priest, with the beautiful eyes, who has taken + up the work of these missions so eagerly.” + </p> + <p> + “So you think we can make the venture a success?” asked Galvez, after he + had talked over his plans with Junipero. + </p> + <p> + “Surely,” said Padre Serra, his eyes shining, his whole face glowing with + enthusiasm. “It is God’s work to carry the cross of the holy faith [Santa + Fe] into the wilderness, and He will go with us; can you not hear the + heathen calling us to bring them the blessed Gospel? I can see that I have + lived all my life for this glorious day.” + </p> + <p> + Then they went to work, the priest and the king’s counselor—down on + the wharf, even working with their own hands, packing away the cargo. + </p> + <p> + “Hurry! Hurry!” said Galvez. The word was passed along, and in a short + time the four expeditions were ready. + </p> + <p> + Many were the trials and discouragements of the various parties. Scurvy + was so severe among the sailors that one ship lost all its crew save two + men, and there were a number of deaths on another ship; while a third + vessel which started later was never heard from. Padre Junipero, who + accompanied the second land party, under the charge of Governor Portola, + became so ill from the wound on his leg that the commander urged him to + return; but he would not. Calling a muleteer who was busy after the day’s + march, doctoring the sores on his animals, he said:— + </p> + <p> + “Come, my son, and cure my sores also.” + </p> + <p> + “Padre,” exclaimed the man, shocked at the idea, “I am no surgeon; I + doctor only my beasts.” + </p> + <p> + “Think then that I am a beast, my child,” said the padre, “and treat me + accordingly.” + </p> + <p> + The man obeyed. Gathering some leaves of the malva, or cheese plant, he + bruised them a little, heated them on the stones of the camp fire, and + spreading them with warm tallow, applied them to the wound. The next + morning the leg was so much better that the cure was thought to be a + miracle. Still the padre was very weak; and there was great rejoicing in + the party when at last they looked down from a height on San Diego Bay, + with the two ships—the San Carlos and the San Antonio—riding + at anchor, white tents on the beach, and soldiers grouped about. Salutes + were fired by the newcomers and returned by the soldiers and ships, and + very soon the four expeditions were reunited. + </p> + <p> + On the next day, Sunday, solemn thanksgiving services were held. Then for + fourteen days all were busy attending to the sick, making ready for the + departure of the ship San Antonio, which was to be sent back for supplies, + and packing up food and other necessities for the journey to Monterey. The + San Antonio sailed on the 9th of July, 1769, and five days later Governor + Portola and two thirds of the well portion of the company started overland + to Monterey. + </p> + <p> + Meantime Padre Junipero had been impatiently awaiting an opportunity to + begin his great work—the conversion of the heathen. He had written + back in his own peculiar way to his friend Padre Palou, whom he left in + charge of the missions of Lower California. + </p> + <p> + “Long Live Jesus, Joseph, and Mary, This to Fray Francisco Palou. + </p> + <p> + “My dear friend and Sir:— + </p> + <p> + “I, thanks be to God, arrived day before yesterday at this, in truth, + beautiful, and with reason famous, port of San Diego. We find Gentiles + [the name given to the wild Indians] here in great numbers. They seem to + lead temperate lives on various seeds and on fish which they catch from + their rafts of tule which are formed like a canoe.” + </p> + <p> + The second day after the departure of Portola and his party, Sunday, July + 16, Padre Serra felt that the glorious moment for which he had so long + prayed had at length arrived. The mission bells were unpacked and hung on + a tree, and a neophyte, or converted Indian, whom he had brought with him + from the peninsula, was appointed to ring them. As the sweet tones sounded + on the clear air, all the party who were able gathered about the padre, + who stood lifting the cross of Christ on high. All joined in solemnly + chanting a hymn, and a sermon was preached. Then with more chanting, the + tolling of, the bells, and the firing of muskets, was concluded the + ceremony of the founding of the first of the California missions, that of + San Diego. + </p> + <p> + Portola and his men, in spite of many discouragements, traveled steadily + northward for nearly two months until at last, one October morning, they + saw what they thought to be Point Pinos, the name given by Cabrillo to the + pine-covered cape to the south of Monterey Bay. They were right in + thinking this Point Pinos, but the sad part is that when they climbed a + hill and looked down on the bay they had come so far to find, they failed + to recognize it. + </p> + <p> + They tramped wearily over the sun-dried hills that bordered it, and walked + on its sandy beach, but could not believe the wide, open roadstead, + encircled by bare brown heights, could be the well-inclosed port lying at + the foot of hills richly green, so warmly described by Vizcaino in his + winter voyage. It was a great disappointment, for this was the latitude in + which they had expected to find Monterey. After talking it over, they + decided they must be still too far south, so they tramped on for many + days. + </p> + <p> + On the last day of October, those of the party who were well enough, + climbed a high hill—(Point San Pedro on the west coast of the + peninsula)—and were rewarded by a glorious view. On their left the + great ocean stretched away to the horizon line, its waves breaking in + high-tossed foam on the rocky shore beneath them. Before them they saw an + open bay, or roadstead, lying between the point on which they stood, and + one extending into the sea far to the northwest. Upon looking at their map + of Vizcaino’s voyage, they rightly decided that this farther projection + was Point Reyes; the little bay sheltered by the curve of its arm was the + one named on the map St. Francis, and now known as Drakes Bay. Well out to + sea they discovered a group of rocky islands which they called Farallones; + but not a man who stood on the height dreamed that only a short distance + to the right up the rocky coast there lay a bay so immense and so + perfectly inclosed that it would ever be one of the wonders of the land + they were exploring. + </p> + <p> + On account of the sick of the party, among whom were the commander and his + lieutenant, it was decided to travel no further, but to camp here while + Sergeant Ortega was dispatched to follow the coast line to Point Reyes and + explore the little bay it inclosed. + </p> + <p> + With a few men and three days’ provisions consisting of small cakes made + of bran and water, which was the only food they had left, this brave + Spanish officer marched away, little imagining the honor which was soon to + be his. Leading this expedition, he was the first white man to explore the + peninsula where now stands the guardian city of the western coast, and we + must wonder what were his thoughts when, pushing his way up some + brush-covered heights, he came out suddenly upon the great bay we call San + Francisco. + </p> + <p> + What a mighty surprise was that sixty miles of peaceful water that had so + long remained hidden from European explorers, baffling the anxious gaze of + Cabrillo, the faithful explorations of Ferrelo, the eagle eyes of Drake, + and the earnest search of Vizcaino! + </p> + <p> + Pushing steadily on toward Point Reyes, Ortega encountered a second + surprise, when from the Presidio hills he looked down on beautiful Golden + Gate, whose rumpled waters seemed to say:— + </p> + <p> + “No farther can you come. We keep guard here.” + </p> + <p> + Seeing that it was quite impossible for him to reach Point Reyes, Ortega + decided to return to Portola. He found the commander and his party so + weakened by sickness and the lack of food that it had been decided to + explore no farther, but to return at once to the southern mission. After a + painful march of sixty days the party reached San Diego. + </p> + <p> + Bitter was the disappointment of Padre Junipero Serra at the failure to + found the mission of Monterey. He did not believe, as many of the party + reported, that the bay was filled up with sand. Keener still was his grief + when Portola, after looking over the supply of food, announced that unless + the ship San Antonio or the sloop San Jose arrived by a certain date with + provisions, they would have to abandon Upper California and return to the + peninsula. + </p> + <p> + The padre at once called the people together for a nine days’ session of + prayer and other church services at which to pray for the coming of the + relief boat. Portola, though he attended the services, went steadily on + with his preparations for departure. On the morning of the day before the + one set for the beginning of the march toward Lower California, the padres + went to the heights overlooking the bay, where they remained watching and + praying. At sea a heavy fog hung over the water. Hour after hour passed as + they gazed out on the lovely bay. Noon came, but they would not return to + the mission to rest or eat. The afternoon wore away, the sun sank in the + clouds above the horizon, then, as all hope seemed gone, the fog was + lifted by a sunset breeze, and there, far out at sea, they saw a white + sail. The good men fell on their knees in thanksgiving, while their Indian + servants ran to carry the news to camp. + </p> + <p> + This vessel, the San Antonio, brought not only abundant provisions but + fresh orders from Galvez to hurry the work at Monterey. The settlement of + Upper California was now made certain. + </p> + <p> + An expedition by land and the San Antonio by sea immediately started + northward. A few weeks later Padre Junipero wrote to Padre Palou: “By the + favor of God, after a month and a half of painful navigation, the San + Antonio found anchor in this port of Monterey, which we find unvarying in + circumstances and substance as described by Don Sebastian Vizcaino.” + </p> + <p> + They even found Vizcaino’s oak. Indeed, it is said on good authority, that + the oak remained standing until 1838, when the high tides washed the earth + from its roots so that it fell. + </p> + <p> + Soon the land expedition arrived, and one June morning in 1770 the members + of the two parties, all in their best attire, were gathered on the beach + for the purpose of founding the second mission. It must have been a pretty + scene,—the stanch little vessel San Antonio, gay with bunting, + swinging at anchor a short distance out, while on shore were grouped the + sailors in the bright dress of seamen of those times, the soldiers in + leather uniform, the governor and his staff in the handsome costumes of + Spanish officials, and the padres in their gray robes. Close beside the + oak a brush house had been built, bells hung, and an altar erected. While + the bells tolled, the solemn service of dedication was held by Padre + Junipero, and so was founded the Mission San Carlos de Borromeo at + Monterey. + </p> + <p> + Near each of the earlier coast missions there was also founded a military + station called a presidio, a name borrowed from the Roman presidium. The + word meant a fort or fortified town. These presidios were intended to + guard the safety of the missions from the wild Indians, and to defend the + coast from ships of other countries. + </p> + <p> + After the religious services Governor Portola proceeded to found the + presidio and take formal possession in the name of the king of Spain by + hoisting and saluting the royal banner, pulling up bunches of grass, and + casting stones, which was an ancient manner of taking possession of a + piece of land or country. The presidio of Monterey was for a long time the + site of the capital of Upper California and therefore most important in + the history of the state. + </p> + <p> + For the sake of better land and water the mission site was soon removed + about six miles, to the Carmelo River. Although not so wealthy as some of + the missions, it was the home of Padre Junipero Serra, president of all + the missions, and so its history is especially interesting. + </p> + <p> + The news of the settlement of San Diego and Monterey was received in + Mexico with great joy, and it was resolved to found five more missions + above San Diego. Four of these were San Gabriel, near the present site of + Los Angeles; San Luis Obispo, farther north; San Antonio; and San + Francisco. Before leaving the peninsula, Padre Serra had asked Galvez, + “And for Father Francisco, head of our order, is there to be no mission + for him?” To which Galvez had replied, “If Saint Francis wants a mission, + let him cause his port to be found and it will be placed there.” When the + beautiful bay was discovered by Sergeant Ortega, it was thought that this + might be the harbor Saint Francis intended for himself, but before naming + it for the head of the order it was necessary that it should be explored. + Although two land expeditions were sent up for this purpose, they were + unsuccessful; and it was not until August, 1775, about four months after + the eventful battle of Lexington had taken place on the Atlantic coast, + that white men first entered the Bay of San Francisco in a ship. + </p> + <p> + Lieutenant Ayala of the Spanish navy, with the San Carlos, had the honor + of conducting this expedition. + </p> + <p> + He reached the entrance to the bay just as night was coming on. Not liking + to trust his vessel in a strange harbor, he sent forward a boat to make + explorations, and then, as it was a little slow in returning, he daringly + pushed on in the darkness into the unknown water. His small craft bobbed + and plunged in the rough water of the bar, darted through Golden Gate, and + came safely to anchor near North Beach. Soon after this exploration it was + settled that here Saint Francis should have his mission. + </p> + <p> + Padre Junipero Serra appointed his friend Francisco Palou, who had now + joined him in his work in Upper California, to make this settlement, and + on the 9th of October, 1776, there was founded in that portion of San + Francisco known as the Mission District, at the corner of Sixteenth and + Dolores streets, the mission of San Francisco. This is often called + Mission Dolores from the name of a small lake and stream beside which it + was built. To-day the name San Francisco rests not only on the old mission + building, with its white pillars, but on the beautiful city which is the + metropolis of our western coast. + </p> + <p> + As fast as possible Padre Junipero hastened the establishment of missions, + choosing those places where there were the largest native settlements. In + the vicinity of Monterey Bay there were, besides the San Carlos mission, + Santa Cruz on the northern curve of the bay, and in the fertile valley + back of the Santa Cruz Mountains the missions of Santa Clara, San Jose, + and San Juan Bautista. Farther south on a lonely height stood Soledad, and + much farther south, San Miguel. + </p> + <p> + The Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel, of whom there were a great + many, were more intelligent and industrious than in other portions of the + country settled by the missionaries, and here were the missions of Santa + Barbara, San Buenaventura, La Purisima, and Santa Inez. + </p> + <p> + In the south, in the fertile valley where are now the great grain fields + of Los Angeles county, San Fernando was founded. Between San Gabriel and + San Diego were placed San Juan Capistrano, San Luis Rey, and the chapel of + Pala. San Rafael and Solano, to the north of San Francisco Bay, complete + the list of twenty-one missions of Upper California. + </p> + <p> + It is impossible to give more than the names of most of these missions, + although about each many true and beautiful stories might be told. It + would be well if those who live near one of these noble ruins would seek + out its particular history and the stories connected with it. This would + be interesting and helpful work for the students in the schools of the + state. + </p> + <p> + The story of the missions seems like a fairy tale, wonderful and unreal. + Into a wilderness inhabited only by savage men and wild animals, hundreds + of miles from any civilized settlement, there came these men trained as + simple priests. + </p> + <p> + Two by two they came, bringing with them, for the starting of each + mission, a few soldiers, seven to ten, a few converted Indians from the + missions of Lower California, a little live stock, some church furniture, + and always the bells; yet in a little over forty years they had succeeded + in founding a chain of missions whose sweet-toned bells chimed the hours + and called to prayer from San Diego to the Bay of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Churches were built larger and often of a purer type of architecture than + those in the civilized well-settled portions of the land,—buildings + that have lasted for a hundred years and may last many years longer if + care is taken to preserve them. Canals of stone and cement and dams of + masonry were constructed that would do credit to our best workmen of + to-day. + </p> + <p> + The little packages of wheat and other grains, seeds from Spanish oranges + and olives, little dried bundles of grapevines from Mexico, developed, + under their care, into the great fields of grain, groves of oranges and + olives, and the wide-spreading vineyards of the mission ranches. All these + wonders were performed with Indian workmen trained by the padres. + </p> + <p> + But what the missionaries cared for more than their success in building + and planting were the thousands of baptized Indians at each mission. These + they instructed daily for the good of their souls in the truths of the + Christian religion, while for their bodily needs they were taught to plow + the earth, to plant seed, to raise and care for domestic animals. They + learned also many useful trades; and music, frescoing, and art were taught + those who seemed to have an especial taste for such things. + </p> + <p> + At the head of this great work was gentle Padre Junipero Serra, the most + interesting character in the history of the missions. He was frail and + slender and much worn by constant labor of head and hands, but his every + thought and action seemed to be for others. Back and forth from Monterey + to San Diego, from mission to mission, he traveled almost constantly, + teaching, baptizing, confirming thousands of his dusky charges. He was + president of all the missions, and besides this was bishop, doctor, judge, + and architect, as well as steward of the mission products and money. + </p> + <p> + Associated with him in his work were a group of noble men whose lives were + spent in caring for the native people with whom they worked and among whom + they finally died. The inhabitants of California may well honor the + mission padres for their earnest, unselfish lives, and in no way can this + be done so fully as in the preservation of the grand old buildings they + left behind, which are indeed fitting monuments to their devotion, energy, + and skill. + </p> + <p> + Beginning with San Diego, let us, in fancy, visit the missions in the + early part of the nineteenth century. + </p> + <p> + It is a winter day in the year 1813 when we ride up the broad, wind-swept + road which leads to the newly dedicated mission building of San Diego. The + wide plain that surrounds it is green with native grass and the blades of + young wheat. Of the two hundred cattle, one hundred sheep, one hundred + horses, and twenty asses brought up by Padre Junipero in 1769 to be + divided among the earlier missions, San Diego had only its due share; yet + under the wise management of the padres, they have now at this mission, + feeding on the green plains, thousands of cattle, horses, and sheep, which + are tended by comfortably clothed Indian herders. Near the mission are the + green and gold of orange orchards, the gray of the olive, and the bare + branches of extensive vineyards. At one side we see a large kitchen garden + where young Indians are at work planting and hoeing. + </p> + <p> + As we draw up in front of the church, Indian servants come out to take our + horses. We dismount, and a padre who is superintending work in the orchard + comes and welcomes us with gentle courtesy. He sends us a servant to show + us to our room, a small square apartment with a hard earthen floor and + bare, whitewashed walls with no ornament but a cross. The beds are of + rawhide stretched over a frame. The covering consists of sheets of coarse + cotton grown and woven at the southern missions, and blankets, coarse but + warm, made by the Indians from the wool of the mission sheep. + </p> + <p> + Dinner at the padre’s table we find most enjoyable. There is beef and + chicken, the frijole, or red bean of Spain, and other vegetables prepared + in a tasty manner peculiar to Spanish cooking, so we do not doubt that the + cook has been taught his trade by the padre himself. The Indian boys who + wait on the table also show careful training, performing their duties + quickly and quietly. Here we can find for bread the tortilla,—still + the food of the Indian and Mexican people of California. It is a thin cake + made of meal or flour and water, and baked without grease on a hot stone + or griddle. Wines made at the mission, the favorite chocolate, thick and + sweet, and some fruit from the padre’s garden complete the meal. + </p> + <p> + Dinner over, we visit the church and admire the striking contrast between + the red tiles of the roof and the creamy white of the walls. All the + buildings are made of bricks molded from a clay called adobe and dried + slowly in the sun. Each brick is twelve inches square by four inches + thick, and the walls are laid two or three bricks deep, those of the + church itself being nearly four feet in thickness. It seems almost + impossible that so large and well made a building could have been + constructed by untrained workmen. Next to the church are the rooms of the + padres, then the dining room and the quarters of the mission guard, which + consists apparently of but two men, the rest being at the presidio, + several miles away. Adjoining these are the storehouses and shops of the + Indian workmen, all of which open on the great courtyard. + </p> + <p> + In the courtyard is a busy scene. Blacksmiths with hammer and anvil make + sounding blows as they work up old iron into needed farm utensils. The + soap maker’s caldron sends up a cloud of ill-smelling steam. At one side + carpenters are at work trimming and cutting square holes in logs for the + beams of new buildings which the padres wish to put up. Saddle makers, + squatted on the ground, are busy fashioning saddletrees, carving, and + sewing leather. The shoemaker is hard at work with needle and awl. These + and many other trades are all going on at once. These courts, which are + called patios, were generally several acres in extent and at the most + flourishing period of the missions each settlement often gave shelter to + over a thousand people. + </p> + <p> + Behind the central court is the home of the unmarried women. This, and the + rooms for their work, open on a separate square where there is shade from + orange and fig trees and a bathing pond supplied by the zanja, or water + ditch. Here square-figured, heavy-featured Indian girls are busy spinning + and weaving thread into cloth. Others are cutting out and sewing garments. + Some, squatted on the ground, are grinding corn into a coarse meal for the + atole, or mush. At the zanja several are engaged in washing clothes. Here + these girls live under the care of an old Indian woman, and unless she + accompanies them they may not, until they are married, go outside these + walls. Near the mission we visit a long row of small adobe buildings, the + homes of the families of the Christian Indians; a neat, busy settlement + where the little ones, comfortably clothed, play about attended by the + older children, while the mothers work for the padres four or five hours + daily. + </p> + <p> + Leaving San Diego and traveling northward along “El Camino Real,” the + highway which leads from mission to mission, we reach San Luis Rey, “King + of the Missions,” as it is sometimes called. Its church is the largest of + all those erected by the padres, being one hundred and sixty feet long, + fifty-eight feet wide, and sixty feet high. Its one square, two-story + tower has a chime of bells, the sweet clear tones of which reached our + ears while we were yet miles from the mission. Counting the arches of the + long corridor, we find there are two hundred and fifty-six. This mission + became very wealthy. At one time it had a baptized Indian population of + several thousand, owned twenty-four thousand cattle, ten thousand horses, + and one hundred thousand sheep, and harvested fourteen thousand bushels of + grain a year. + </p> + <p> + Its prosperity was due in a great measure to good Padre Peyri, who had + charge of it from its beginning. Many years afterwards, as we shall see, + the padres were ordered by the Mexican government to leave their missions, + the wealth they had gathered, and the Indians they had taught and cared + for. Father Peyri, knowing how hard it would be for him to get away from + his Indian children, as he called them, slipped off by night to San Diego. + In the morning the Indians missed him. Learning what had happened, five + hundred of them mounted their ponies in hot haste and galloped all the way + to San Diego, forty-five miles, to bring him back by force. They arrived + just as the ship, with Padre Peyri on board, was weighing anchor. Standing + on deck with outstretched arms, the padre blessed them amid their tears + and loud cries. Some flung themselves into the water and swam after the + ship. Four reached it, and, climbing up its sides, so implored to be taken + on board that the padre consented and carried them with him to Rome, where + one afterwards became a priest. + </p> + <p> + The next link in our chain, the most beautiful of all the missions, is + that of San Juan Capistrano. It was founded in 1776, the year of our + Declaration of Independence, but in 1812 it was destroyed by an + earthquake, the massive towers and noble arch falling in on the Indians, + who were assembled in the church for morning prayers. Many of them were + killed. The church has never been rebuilt. + </p> + <p> + It is Christmas Day when we reach San Gabriel, the next station on El + Camino Real. Inside the great cactus fence which incloses the square about + the mission we see a strangely mixed company,—Indians in their best + clothes, their faces shining from a liberal use of mission soap and water; + soldiers in their leather suits freshened up for the holiday; a few + ranchmen in the gay dress of the times, riding beautiful horses; women and + girls each brilliant in a bright-colored skirt with shawl or scarf + gracefully draped over head and shoulders. + </p> + <p> + The Christmas Day morning service, held at four o’clock and known by the + common people as the Rooster Mass, is long since over. The crowd is now + gathered for the Pastorel, which, like the miracle plays of the Middle + Ages, is a drama with characters taken from the Bible. + </p> + <p> + First to appear on the scene is an orchestra composed of young Indians + playing violins, bass viols, reeds, flutes, and guitars. Closely following + come the actors, representing San Gabriel and attendant angels, Satan, + Blind Bartimeus, and a company of shepherds. The entertainment is very + simple. There is the announcement of the birth of the Savior, the + adoration of the babe, and the offering of gifts. The play concludes with + a protracted struggle between San Gabriel and Satan for the possession of + Blind Bartimeus, in which the saint finally comes off victor while the + orchestra plays lively music. After the Pastorel there are games, dancing, + and feasting. Every one seems happy, and it is with regret that we leave + the gay scene. + </p> + <p> + Through the hills to the north, across the Arroyo Seco, not dry now, but a + swift stream turbulent from the winter rains, we journey on. We pass Eagle + Rock, a great bowlder high upon the green hillside, one of the landmarks + of the region, and enter the valley of the Los Angeles River. After + traveling for several hours, we come to a large plantation of trees, + vines, and grainfields, in the midst of which lies the mission of San + Fernando. Its land extends for miles on every side and is exceedingly + fertile. In front of the beautiful cloisters, under tall and stately palm + trees, a fountain sends high its sparkling water, which falls back with + pleasant tinkle into a basin of carved stone. + </p> + <p> + When we reach San Buenaventura, the next mission on our route, we find + priests and Indians exceedingly busy, for word has come from Monterey that + a Yankee trading vessel will soon sail for the south, and cattle must be + killed and the fat rendered into tallow for the market. As hides and + tallow are about the only commodities the padres have for sale, this is an + important event. Indians tend the caldrons of bubbling grease, and keep up + the fires under the kettles. When the tallow is slightly cooled, they pour + it into sacks made from the skins of animals. These, when filled with the + hardened tallow, look as though each again held a plump beast. + </p> + <p> + Traveling up the coast we come one afternoon to + </p> + <p> + A golden bay ‘neath soft blue skies Where on a hillside creamy rise The + mission towers whose patron saint Is Barbara—with legend quaint. + </p> + <p> + Here spring is merging into summer, and we are in time to see the ceremony + which closes the wheat harvest. The workmen gather the last four sheaves + from the field, and, fastening them in the form of a cross, carry them, + followed by a long procession of dusky reapers, up the ascent to the + church. As they approach, the bells burst out in a joyous peal, and from + the mission doors the padres come forth, one bearing a cross, another the + banner of the Virgin. A choir of Indian boys follows, chanting a hymn. All + advance slowly down the avenue to meet the sheaf bearers, then counter + march to the church, where the harvest festival is celebrated. + </p> + <p> + Passing by other missions, we must close our journey with a visit to San + Carlos, the Monterey mission, most prominent of all in the history of the + church and state. It was from the first the special charge of Padre + Junipero Serra, and, at the time we see it, his monument as well; for in + it at last his weary body was laid to rest beside his friend Padre Juan + Crespi, to whose writings, next to those of Padre Francisco Palou, we are + most indebted for our knowledge of Junipero Serra and his great work. In + 1813, with its graceful arched front and two towers, San Carlos was a + noble-looking building, but since that time one tower has fallen. + </p> + <p> + We are reminded, as we look, of the scene when Junipero lay dying. Ever + since morning the grief-stricken people had been waiting, listening for + the news from the sick room. When the tolling of the bell announced that + the beautiful life was ended, crowds came weeping and lamenting, anxious + to see again the beloved face. + </p> + <p> + It was with great difficulty that the Indians could be kept from tearing + the padre’s robe from his body, so earnestly did they desire to possess + some relic of the father they had loved so long. + </p> + <p> + Here we notice the daily life of the Indian, which (in 1813) is the same + at all the missions. At sunrise comes the sound of the bells calling to + the morning prayers, and we see the natives hurrying to the church. After + service they gather for breakfast of mush and tortillas. As the flocks and + herds have increased, meat forms part of the daily food, sometimes from + the freshly killed beeves, but generally in a dried state called carne + seco. After breakfast the workers go in groups to their various + employments. Dinner is served at eleven, and they have a resting period + until two. Then work is again taken up and continued until an hour before + sunset, when the bells call to evening prayer. Supper follows the evening + service, after which the Indians can do as they like until bedtime. We see + some engaged in a game of ball. Many are squatted on the ground playing + other games,—gambling, we suspect. In one group there is dancing to + the music of violin and guitar. There is laughter and chattering on all + sides, and to us they seem happy, at least for the time. + </p> + <p> + The life led by the Indians at the missions was not generally a hard one. + No doubt when they first came, or were brought, into the settlements, from + their free wild life, they found it harder to keep the regular hours of + the missions than to perform the work, which was seldom very heavy. When + disobedient or lazy, they were punished severely, judging by the standards + of to-day, but really no harder than was at that time the custom in + schools and in navies the world over. When the soldiers came in contact + with the natives, there was generally cruel treatment for the latter. But + as far as possible the padres stood between their charges and the + soldiers, always placing the mission as far from the presidio as the + safety of the former would allow. + </p> + <p> + At San Diego, about five years after its settlement, wild Indians + surprised the mission guard, and killed the padre and several of the + converted Indians in a most cruel manner. The Spanish government gave + orders that the murderers should be taken and executed and this mission + abandoned; but Padre Junipero begged so hard for the culprits, who, he + said, knew no better, having no knowledge of God, that he was finally + allowed to have his way. Gentleness and patience won the day; not only the + Indians who made the attack were converted, but many more of their tribe, + and the mission became a flourishing settlement. There was once a + rebellion among the Santa Clara and San Jose Indians, led by a young + convert from Santa Clara, which required soldiers from Monterey to put + down. Generally, however, the mission life was peaceful, the Indians being + fond of their padres. + </p> + <p> + When Mexico became free from Spain, no more money was sent up to pay the + soldiers or run the government in Upper California, and for a long time + the missions advanced the money for the expenses of the government. + </p> + <p> + After a time the new priests who came up from Mexico were not generally + men of such education and noble character as the early mission padres. + They cared less for missionary work, and were not so energetic. Their + influence was not always good for the Indians, who quickly saw the + difference between them and their old padres. They had little confidence + in the newcomers, so at the few missions where such as these were in + charge the Indians were disobedient, and received harsh punishments from + the padres; and trouble followed. + </p> + <p> + In 1833 the Mexican government decided to confirm the mandate issued by + Spain several years before in regard to the breaking up of the mission + settlements. By this law each Indian was to have his own piece of land to + own and care for. He was to be no longer under the control of the church, + but to be his own master like any other citizen. As for the padres, they + were to give up their wealth and lands, and leave for other missionary + fields. That this would create a great change in California all realized; + still it was no new idea, but the plan Spain had in mind when the missions + were first founded. The mistake was in supposing that it was possible for + a people to rise in so short a time from the wild life of the California + Indian to the position of self-supporting citizens in a civilized country. + </p> + <p> + When the Indians understood this order, some were pleased and, like + children when freed from restraint, ceased to work and became troublesome. + Many, however, when they found that the padres were to leave them, became + very unhappy; some, it is said, even died from homesickness for the + mission and the padre. One committed suicide. + </p> + <p> + It was soon seen that they were not fitted to look after themselves. Only + a few years had passed since they were savages, knowing nothing of + civilized life, and they still needed some one to guide them. They not + only began to drink and gamble, but were cheated and ill-treated on all + sides, until many of them became afraid of living in towns and went back + to wild life. For this they were no longer fitted, and they suffered so + much from hunger and cold that great numbers of them died. + </p> + <p> + Because the Indians were not capable of caring for themselves at the time + of the secularization of the missions, the padres are often severely + blamed. It is said that they tried to keep the natives without knowledge, + in fact something like slaves. But the truth is that the padres taught + them by thousands, not only to cultivate the soil, to irrigate wisely, to + raise domestic cattle, but to work at every trade that could be of use in + a new country. They were encouraged to choose from among themselves + alcaldes, or under officers of the mission. In this way every inducement + was given to the Indian showing himself capable of self-control, to rise + to a prominent position in his little world, where he generally ruled his + fellow-workmen wisely and kindly. + </p> + <p> + Added to this, the Indians acquired, through the teaching and example of + the padres, a religion that has lasted through generations. The breaking + up of the mission settlements scattered the Indians through the country, + many of them going back to the wild life in the forest and mountains, + where they no longer had any religious instructions. Yet to-day, after all + the years that have passed, there are few Indians from San Diego to San + Francisco who do not speak the language of the padres and follow, though + it may be but feebly, the teaching of the Catholic faith, the “Santa Fe” + of the padres. + </p> + <p> + Some of the mission buildings, many of the flocks, and much of the land + fell into the hands of men who had no possible right to them. Orchards and + vineyards were cut down, cattle killed and stolen, and there was only ruin + where a short time before there had been thousands of busy people leading + comfortable lives. Soon the churches were neglected and began to crumble + away, bats flew in and out of the broken arches, squirrels chattered + fearlessly in the padre’s dining room, and the only human visitor was some + sad-hearted Indian worshiper, slipping timidly into the desolate building + to kneel alone before the altar where once + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Sweet strains from dusky neophytes + Rose up to God in praise, + When life centered ‘round the missions + In the happy golden days. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter V. — Pastoral Days + </h2> + <p> + For hundreds of years poets have written and singers have sung of the + loveliness of a country life, where there is no gathering together of the + inhabitants in great cities, no struggle to make money, where the people + live much out of doors, are simple in their tastes, healthy and happy. + </p> + <p> + These dreams of an ideal life the Spanish-speaking settlers of early + California made real. In this land of balmy airs, soft skies, and gentle + seas there lived, in the old days, a people who were indifferent to money, + who carried their religion into their daily pleasures and sorrows, were + brotherly toward one another, contented, beautiful, joyous. + </p> + <p> + About the time that the mission of San Francisco was founded, the Spanish + government decided to lay out two towns, or pueblos, where it was thought + the fertile character of the soil would lead the settlers to raise grain + and other supplies, not only for themselves but for the people of the + presidios. Up to this time a large part of the food had been brought, at a + considerable cost, from Mexico. + </p> + <p> + We know that the governor, Felipe de Neve, chose the town sites with care, + for in the whole state there are nowhere more beautiful and fertile spots + than San Jose, near the southern end of San Francisco Bay, and Los + Angeles, near the famous valley of the San Gabriel River. In founding + these two pueblos, and a third which was located where Santa Cruz now + stands, the plan pursued was interesting and somewhat different from the + methods of settlement on the eastern coast of our country. + </p> + <p> + First there was chosen a spot for the plaza, or central square, care being + taken that it was not far from good grazing land suitable for the + settlers’ stock. Around the plaza, lots were set apart for the courthouse, + town hall, church, granaries, and jail. Next were the lots for the + settlers, who each had, besides his home spot, several acres of farming + land with water, and the right to use the pasture lands of the town. To + each family was given, also, two horses, two cows, two oxen, a mule, + several goats, sheep, chickens, farming implements, and a small sum in + money. + </p> + <p> + Instead of asking tax money of the town people, some of the land was + reserved as public property to be rented out, the proceeds to be used for + the expenses of the government. Many people believe that this is the + wisest plan man has yet discovered for managing the expenses of a city, + town, or country. + </p> + <p> + Los Angeles had for many years a large amount of this land near the center + of the town, belonging to the city government. Gradually it was taken up + by settlers or appropriated by officials until, when the place grew large + and thriving, it was found that the land had become private property; and + finally the city had to pay large sums for parks and land for public + buildings. + </p> + <p> + Each pueblo was ruled by an alcalde, or mayor, and council, chosen by the + people. To advise with these officers, there was a commissioner who + represented the governor of the country. During the first few years the + pueblo was governed largely by the commissioner. Presidios, which were, at + first, forts with homes for the commander, officers, soldiers, and their + families, and were ruled by the commanding officer or comandante, + gradually became towns; and then they, too, had their alcalde and council. + There were four presidios—Monterey, San Francisco, San Diego, and + Santa Barbara. + </p> + <p> + In spite of all the gifts of free land, stock, and money, it was hard to + secure a suitable class of settlers. Many of those who came up from Mexico + to live in the pueblos were idle or dissipated, and nearly all uneducated. + When, after several years, a Spanish officer was sent down from Monterey + to convey to the Los Angeles settlers full title to their lands, he found + that not one of the twenty-four heads of families could sign his name. + Later a much better class of people came into the country—men of + education, brave, hardy members of good Spanish families, who obtained + grants of land from the government, bought cattle from the mission herds, + and began the business of stock raising. + </p> + <p> + This was the beginning of the pastoral or shepherd life. Each rancho was + miles in extent, its cattle and horses numbered by thousands. The homes + were generally built around a court into which all the rooms opened, and + were constructed of adobe bricks such as were used at the missions. In the + better class of homes several feet of the space in the courtyard next the + wall were covered with tile roofing, forming a shaded veranda, where the + family were accustomed to spend the leisure hours. Here they received + visitors, the men smoked their cigaritos, and the children made merry. In + the long summer evenings sweet strains of Spanish music from violin and + guitar filled the air, and the hard earthen floor of the courtyard + resounded to the tap-tap of high-heeled slippers, the swish of silken + skirts, and the jingle of silver spurs, as the young people took part in + the graceful Spanish dances. + </p> + <p> + It was no small matter to rule one of these great households. La Patrona + (the mistress) was generally the first one up. “Before the sun had risen,” + said a member of one of the old families, “while the linnets and mocking + birds were sounding their first notes, my mother would appear at our + bedside. ‘Up, muchachos, up, muchachas, and kneel for your Alba!’ The Alba + was a beautiful prayer of thanksgiving for care during the night, with a + plea for help through the dangers and temptations of the day. No excuse + for lying abed was accepted; up, and on the floor we knelt, then she + passed on to where the mayordomo, or foreman, and his men were gathering + in the courtyard. Here, too, was the cook with the Indian maids, busy + making tortillas for the morning meal. ‘Your Albas, my children,’ my + mother would say in her clear, firm voice. Down would drop mayordomo, + vaqueros, cook, and Indian girls, all devoutly reciting the morning + prayer. + </p> + <p> + “After their prayer the children might, if they chose, return to their + beds, but before sleep could again overtake them there would probably come + from a distant room the voice of their aged grandfather asking them + questions from the Spanish catechism. + </p> + <p> + “‘Children, who made you?’ he would call in a quavering voice. + </p> + <p> + “A chorus of small voices would sing-song in response, ‘El Dios’ [God]. + </p> + <p> + “Again he would question, ‘Children, who died for you?’ + </p> + <p> + “Again the reply, ‘El Dios.’ + </p> + <p> + “By the time the questions were all answered there was no chance for more + sleep.” + </p> + <p> + Nothing was taken with the morning coffee but the tortilla. This was a + thin cake made of meal from corn ground by Indian women who used for the + grinding either a stone mortar and pestle, or a metate. The metate was a + three-legged stone about two feet in length and one in breadth, slightly + hollowed out in the center; grain was ground in this by rubbing with a + smaller stone. It took a great number of tortillas to serve the large + household. One Indian maid, kneeling beside a large white stone which + served as table, mixed the meal, salt, and water into balls of dough. + These she handed to another girl, who spatted them flat and thin by + tossing them from one of her smooth bare arms to the other until they were + but a little thicker than a knife blade. The cook then baked them on a hot + dry stone or griddle, turning them over and over to keep them from + burning. + </p> + <p> + El Patron (the master) usually rose early, and after his coffee, put on + his high, wide-brimmed sombrero, and, attended by his sons, if they were + old enough, and his mayordomo, rode over his estate, looking after the + Indian vaqueros and workmen. One gentleman, a member of a fine Spanish + family which lived in the southern part of the state, used to ride out + with his sixteen sons, all of whom were over six feet in height. Generally + the families were large, often comprising twelve children or more. These + made merry households for the little people. + </p> + <p> + After breakfast it was the duty of the mistress to set the host of Indian + girls to their tasks. The padres were always glad to let the young Indian + girls from the mission go into white families where there was a wise + mistress, that they might be trained in both religious and domestic + duties. Going to the gate of the courtyard, the Patrona would call, “To + the brooms, to the brooms, muchachas,” adding, if it were foggy, “A very + fine morning for the brooms, little ones;” and out would come running a + cluster of Indian girls carrying each a broom. At the work they would go, + sweeping as clean as a floor the courtyard and ground for a large space + about the house. + </p> + <p> + Next they flocked to the sewing room, often sixteen or eighteen of these + girls, to take up their day’s work under the mistress’s eye. Some made + garments for the ranch hands, those who were better work women attended to + the making of clothing for the family, while the girls who were the most + skillful with the needle fashioned delicate, fine lace work and + embroidery. + </p> + <p> + The children were seldom indoors unless it rained. There were no schools; + there were few ranches where there were teachers, and the fathers and + mothers generally had their hands too full to devote themselves to their + children’s education, so in the early days it was all playtime. Later, + schools were started for boys, and dreadful places they were. + </p> + <p> + As General Vallejo describes them, they were generally held in a narrow, + badly lighted room, with no adornment but a large green cross or some + picture of a saint hanging beside the master’s table. The master was often + an old soldier in fantastic dress, with ill-tempered visage. The scholar + entered, walked the length of the room, knelt before the cross or picture, + recited a prayer, then tremblingly approached the master, saying, “Your + hand, Senor Maestro,” when with a grunt the hand would be extended to him + to be kissed. Little was taught besides the reading of the primer and the + catechism. + </p> + <p> + Ranch boys early learned to ride, each having his own horse and saddle. + Every year there was a rodeo, or “round-up,” held in each neighborhood, + where cattle from all the surrounding ranches were driven to one point for + the purpose of counting the animals and branding the young. Each stock + owner had to be there with all the men from his ranch who could ride, nor + must he forget his branding irons. These brands were recorded in the + government book of the department, and any one changing the form of his + iron in any manner without the permission of the judge was guilty of a + crime. + </p> + <p> + To the boys the rodeo was the most interesting time of the whole year. The + coming of the strange herds and vaqueros, the counting and the separating + of the animals, and the branding of the young stock made a period of + excitement and fun. Here was offered a chance for the display of good + horsemanship. Sometimes as the cattle were being gradually herded into a + circular mass, an unruly cow or bull would suddenly dart from the drove + and run away at full speed. A vaquero on horseback would immediately dash + after the animal, and, coming up with it, lean from the saddle and seizing + the runaway by the tail, spur his horse forward. Then by a quick movement + he would give a jerk and suddenly let go his hold, when the animal would + fall rolling over and over on the ground. By the time it was up again it + was tamed. Many a boy earned his first praise for good riding at a rodeo. + </p> + <p> + Nowhere in the world were there better and more graceful riders. Horses + used for pleasure were fine, spirited animals. The saddle and the bridle + were generally handsomely inlaid with silver or gold. A California + gentleman in fiesta costume, mounted on his favorite horse, was a delight + to the eyes. His hat, wide in the brim, high and pointed in the crown, was + made of soft gray wool and ornamented with gold or silver lace and cord, + sometimes embroidered with rubies and emeralds until it was very heavy and + exceedingly valuable. His white shirt was of thin, embroidered muslin, and + the white stock, too, was of thin stuff wrapped several times around the + neck, then tied gracefully in front. The jacket was of cloth or velvet, in + dark colors, blue, green, or black, with buttons and lace trimmings of + silver or gold, often of a very elaborate design. About the waist was tied + a wide sash of soft material and gay color, the ends hanging down at the + side. The breeches were of velvet or heavy cloth, dark in color, save when + the rider was gay in his taste, then they might be of bright tints. They + either ended at the knee, below which were leggings of deerskin, or fitted + the figure closely down to just above the ankle, where they widened out + and were slashed at the outer seam, showing thin white drawers, which + puffed prettily between the slashes. A gentleman in Los Angeles still has + the trimmings for such suit, consisting of three hundred and fifty pieces + of silver filigree work. + </p> + <p> + Every one seemed to live out of doors, and though the ranchos were widely + scattered, there was much visiting and social gayety. All who could, + traveled on horseback; while the mother of the family, the children, and + old people used the clumsy carreta with its squeaking wheels. + </p> + <p> + One of the prettiest sights was a wedding procession as it escorted the + bride from her home to the mission church. Horses were gayly caparisoned, + and the riders richly dressed. The nearest relative of the bride carried + her before him on the saddle, across which hung a loop of gold or silver + braid for her stirrup, in which rested her little satin-shod foot. Her + escort sat behind her on the bearskin saddle blanket. Accompanying the + party were musicians playing guitar and violin, each managing horse and + instrument with equal skill. + </p> + <p> + The California woman generally wore a full skirt of silk, satin, wool, or + cotton, a loose waist of thin white goods, and, in cold weather, a short + bolero jacket of as rich material as could be obtained. A bright-colored + ribbon served for a sash, and a lace handkerchief or a muslin scarf was + folded over the shoulders and neck. In place of bonnet and wrap a lace or + silk shawl, or a narrow scarf called a rebosa, was gracefully draped over + the head and shoulders. + </p> + <p> + Children were dressed like the older people, and very pretty were the + girls in their low-necked, short-sleeved camisas or waists, and full gay + skirts, their hair in straight braids hanging down over the shoulders. The + short breeches, pretty round jackets, and gay sashes were very becoming to + the boys. + </p> + <p> + At night the daughters of the house, big and little, were locked into + their rooms by their mother, the father attending in the same manner to + the boys. In the morning the mother’s first duty was to unlock these + doors. + </p> + <p> + Various games were played. Blindman’s buff was a great favorite for + moonlight nights. There was also a game called cuatrito, in which the + players threw bits of stone at a mark drawn on the ground at a certain + distance. + </p> + <p> + “In my time,” said a prominent Californian of to-day, “we used to play + this game with golden slugs instead of stones; there was always a basket + of slugs sitting door. We liked them because they carried well, and we + thought it nothing unusual to use them as playthings. They were abundant + in most of the houses; my mother and her friends used them as soap dishes + in, the bedrooms. + </p> + <p> + “In the spare rooms was always a little pile of money covered by a napkin, + from which the visitor was expected to help himself if he needed. We would + have considered it disgraceful to count the guest money.” + </p> + <p> + “Our parents were very strict with us,” said another Californian, “much + more so than is the custom to-day. Sometimes while the parents, brothers, + and sisters were eating their meal, a child who was naughty had for + punishment to kneel in one corner of the dining room before a high stool, + on which was an earthen plate, a tin cup, and a wooden spoon. It was worse + than a flogging, a thousand times. As soon as the father went out, the + mother and sisters hastened to the sorrowful one and comforted him with + the best things from the table.” + </p> + <p> + The clothes were not laundered each week, but were saved up often for + several weeks or even a month or two, and then came a wash-day frolic. + Imagine wash day looked forward to as a delightful event! So it was, + however, to many California children. Senorita Vallejo, in the Century + Magazine (Vol. 41), thus describes one of these excursions:— + </p> + <p> + “It made us children happy to be waked before sunrise to prepare for the + ‘wash-day expedition.’ The night before, the Indians had soaped the clumsy + carreta’s great wheels. Lunch was placed in baskets, and the gentle oxen + were yoked to the pole. We climbed in under the green cloth of an old + Mexican flag which was used as an awning, and the white-haired Indian + driver plodded beside with his long oxgoad. The great piles of soiled + linen were fastened on the backs of horses led by other servants, while + the girls and women who were to do the washing trooped along by the side + of the carreta. Our progress was slow, and it was generally sunrise before + we reached the spring. The steps of the carreta were so low that we could + climb in or out without stopping the oxen. The watchful mother guided the + whole party, seeing that none strayed too far after flowers, or loitered + too long. Sometimes we heard the howl of coyotes and the noise of other + wild animals, and then none of the children were allowed to leave the + carreta. + </p> + <p> + “A great dark mountain rose behind the spring, and the broad, beautiful + valley, unfenced and dotted with browsing herds, sloped down to the bay + [of San Francisco]. We watched the women unload the linen and carry it to + the spring, where they put home-made soap on the clothes, dipped them in + the spring, and rubbed them on the smooth rocks until they were white as + snow. Then they were spread out to dry on the tops of the low bushes + growing on the warm, windless southern slopes of the mountain.” After a + happy day in the woods came “the late return at twilight, when the younger + children were all asleep in the slow carreta and the Indians were singing + hymns as they drove the linen-laden horses down the dusky ravines.” + </p> + <p> + As at the missions, soon the ranchos, little was raised for sale save + hides and tallow from the cattle. It was not the fault of the settlers + that, living in so fertile a country, they made so little use of its + productiveness. Spain’s laws in regard to trade were made entirely in the + interests of the mother country, the settlers of New Spain, especially of + Alta California, having no encouragement to raise more than they needed + for use at home. They could not sell their produce to ships from foreign + countries, for the penalty for that was death to the foreigner and severe + punishment for the colonist. All trade had to be carried on in Spanish + vessels, and it was forbidden to ship olive oil, wine, or anything that + was raised or made in the home country. As California and Spain were much + alike in climate and soil, this law really stopped all outside trade + except that arising from cattle. + </p> + <p> + After the territory became a Mexican province, the rules were not so + severe in regard to foreign trade, and finally the New England vessels + freely entered the ports by paying certain duties to the government. + </p> + <p> + To the young people upon the ranchos the arrival of a trading vessel was a + great event. If the port was not far from the house, the Patrona and the + young ladies sometimes went on board to select for themselves from the + miscellaneous cargo the things they desired; but as they were generally + afraid of the water, especially of trusting themselves in the ship’s + boats, the father and boys often represented the family on such occasions. + </p> + <p> + When news arrived that a ship was coming down the coast, elder sisters + became very kind and attentive to younger brothers, who accepted panocha + (a coarse brown sugar cast in square or scalloped cakes) and other gifts + contentedly, knowing well they would be expected to “coax Father” to buy + the ring, sash, necklace, or fan which the good sister particularly + desired. Often a ranchero would go down to the harbor with ten or fifteen + ox carts loaded with hides, skins, and tallow, and return with ranch + implements, furniture, dishes, sugar, other food, clothes, and ornaments + of all kinds. Such laughing, chattering, and excitement as there was when + the squeaking ox carts came into the courtyard! The whole household, from + the Patrona and her guests to the Indian mothers with their children from + the kitchen precincts, gathered to watch the slow unloading of the + purchases. Slow, indeed, seemed the process to the eager children of the + family. Except on horseback for a short dash, the Californian never + hurried. For a journey the usual gait was a little jog trot, hardly faster + than a walk. + </p> + <p> + Senorita Vallejo, in the Century Magazine, describes the loading of a + ship’s cargo: “The landing place for the mission of San Jose was at the + mouth of a salt water creek several miles away. When a trading vessel + entered San Francisco Bay, the large ship’s boat would be sent up this + creek to collect the hides and tallow; but if the season was a wet one, + the roads would be too bad for the ox carts; then each separate hide was + doubled across the middle and placed on the head of an Indian. Sometimes + long files of Indians might be seen, each carrying hides in this manner, + as they trotted across the wide, flat plains or pushed their way through + the little forest of dried mustard stalks to the creek mouth.” + </p> + <p> + No such thing was known as a Californian breaking his word in regard to a + debt. Yankee ship owners trusted him freely. Once, when a ship was in + port, the captain left it for a little while in charge of the clerk whose + business it was to sell the goods, but who had never been in California + before and knew nothing of its customs. Down to the shore came a ranchero + attended by servants and ox carts. He came on board and bought many + things, intending to pay later with hides and tallow which were not then + ready. When he ordered the goods taken ashore with never a word as to + payment, the clerk informed him that he must either give money or else + give some writing saying that he would pay. + </p> + <p> + Now this Californian, though rich in lands and stock, could neither read + nor write. When he understood that he was being distrusted, he gravely + drew from his beard a hair, and, handing it to the clerk, said: “Give this + to your master and tell him it is a hair from the beard of Agustin + Machado. You will find it sufficient guarantee.” The clerk saw that he had + made a mistake, and, taking the hair, placed it in the leaves of his note + book and allowed the goods to be taken away. When the captain returned, he + was mortified that there had been any distrust shown. + </p> + <p> + While California was a Spanish province its chief ruler was appointed by + the home government and was always an educated gentleman of good family, + generally an officer of the army. The coming of a new governor was a great + event in the colony and was celebrated with all possible ceremony and + display. + </p> + <p> + In 1810 Mexico began its revolt against Spain. In California the people + were in sympathy with the mother country and had no doubt of her final + success. For a long time they received little news of how the war was + progressing. They only knew that no more money was sent up to pay the + soldiers or the expenses of government, that the padres no longer received + any income from the Pius Fund, that even the trading vessels from Mexico + upon which they depended for their supplies had ceased to come. + </p> + <p> + Times became so hard that the local government turned for aid to the + missions, which had become largely self-supporting. Many of them were + indeed wealthy communities, and the padres responded generously to the + demand for help. For several years they furnished food and clothing to the + soldiers, and money for the expenses of government, for the most of which + they never received payment. + </p> + <p> + Gradually the fine clothes of the Californians wore out, no vessels + arrived from which they could purchase more, and again it was the missions + which came to the rescue. Their cotton and woolen goods were in great + demand. Indian spinners and weavers were busy from morning until night + making clothes for the “gente de razon,” or “people of reason,” which was + the term by which the white settlers were distinguished from the natives. + </p> + <p> + In 1822 a vessel came up from the south, bringing to the governor official + notice that the war had been decided in favor of Mexico, and that + California was therefore a Mexican province. This was disagreeable news to + the Californians, but after consultation held by the governor, his + officers, the padre who was the president of the missions, and some of the + leading citizens, it was decided that they were too far away from Spain to + be able to resist, and that they should take the oath to be true to the + Mexican government. For the padres, who were all Spaniards and loyal to + the home government, this was a hard thing to do, and they never became + reconciled to the change. + </p> + <p> + From this time California was not so well governed. Mexico, which was then + an empire but soon became a republic, had its hands full looking after its + own affairs, and little attention was paid its far-off province. Its best + men were needed at home, and the governors sent up the coast were not + always wise or pleasing to the people. There were several revolutions with + but little bloodshed. One governor was sent back to Mexico. At one time + the Californians declared that theirs was a free state, and a young man + named Alvarado was made governor. General Vallejo, who was his uncle, was + given command of the army. But soon the Californians quarreled bitterly + among themselves, so that this government did not last long and the + territory went back under the rule of Mexico. That government, in order to + have peace in the province, confirmed Alvarado and Vallejo in their + positions. + </p> + <p> + During the war between Mexico and Spain a South American pirate paid a visit + to the coast of Upper California. Monterey was attacked and partly + destroyed, also the mission of San Juan Capistrano and the rancho El + Refugio, the home of Captain Ortega, the discoverer of San Francisco Bay. + In the crew of the pirate ship was a young American named Chapman, who had + found life among his rough associates not so interesting as he had hoped + it would be, so he deserted, but was taken prisoner by the Californians + and imprisoned in a canyon near the present site of Pasadena. Later he was + brought down to Los Angeles and set at liberty. He found the people of the + pueblo planning to build a church on the plaza, and he told them that if + they would let him have some Indian workmen he would get some large + timbers down from the canyon. He accomplished this successfully, and it + was considered a wonderful work. The stumps of the trees can yet be seen + far up on the mountain side, and the timbers are still in the plaza + church. + </p> + <p> + Visiting San Gabriel, young Chapman found the padres having trouble to + keep the flour which they ground in their new stone mill from being + dampened by water from the mill wheel. Knowing something of machinery, the + American remedied the defect by means of a flutter wheel, and there was no + more trouble. + </p> + <p> + For years the catching of otters for their fur along the lagoons and bays + about San Francisco and Monterey brought considerable money to the + northern missions. Chapman, finding that the padres of San Gabriel were + anxious to engage in this trade, built for them the first sea-going boat + ever constructed in southern California. It was a schooner, the various + parts of which he made in the workshop of the mission. They were then + carried down to San Pedro, where he put them together and successfully + launched the vessel. + </p> + <p> + Finally, to close his history, it is recorded of Mr. Chapman that he fell + in love with the pretty daughter of Captain Ortega, whose home he had + helped his pirate associates to attack, that he married her and lived to a + good old age. The country had few more useful citizens than this capable + man, the first American to settle in the southern part of California. + </p> + <p> + With the secularization of the missions in 1833-34 came a change in the + peaceful pastoral life. In each section all that was of interest had from + the first centered around its mission. One of the chief pleasures of the + early Californians was the feast day, “La Fiesta,” which celebrated a + saint’s birthday. During the year there were many of these festivals. + First there were religious exercises at the mission church; then in the + great square there followed dancing, games, and feasting, in which all + classes took some part. These happy church festivals ceased with the + breaking up of the mission settlements. Some of the Indians disturbed the + community by disorderly conduct, and the ill treatment and suffering of + the rest of these simple people caused sorrow and dismay in the hearts of + the better portion of the settlers. There was a wild scramble for the + lands, stock, and other wealth which had been gathered by the missionaries + and their Indian workmen. + </p> + <p> + Many of the beautiful churches were sold to people who cared nothing for + the faith they represented. In some, cattle were stabled. The mission + bells were silent, and many of the mission settlements, once so busy and + prosperous, were solitary and in ruins. + </p> + <p> + Life in the great ranchos still went on much as before, but it was no + longer so simple and joyous. A change had begun, and not many years later, + with the coming of the Americans at the time of the Mexican war, the + peaceful, happy life of Spanish California was brought to an end. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VI. — The Footsteps of the Stranger + </h2> + <p> + At no point does the early history of California come in contact with that + of the colonies of the Eastern coast of the United States. The nearest + approach to such contact was in the year 1789, when Captain Arguello, + commander of the presidio of San Francisco, received the following orders + from the governor of the province:— + </p> + <p> + “Should there arrive at your port a ship named Columbia, which, they say, + belongs to General Washington of the American States, you will take + measures to secure the vessel with all the people aboard with discretion, + tact, cleverness, and caution.” As the Columbia failed to enter the + Californian port, the Spanish commander had no chance to try his wits and + guns with those of the Yankee captain. + </p> + <p> + It would seem as though the Californians lived for a time in fear of their + Eastern neighbors, since prayers were offered at some of the missions that + the people be preserved from “Los Americanos;” but after the coming of the + first two or three American ships, when trade began to be established, + there arose the kindliest feeling between the New England traders and the + Californians. The ship Otter, from Boston, which came to the coast in + 1796, was the first vessel from the United States to anchor in a + California port. + </p> + <p> + La Perouse, in command of a French scientific expedition, was the first + foreigner of prominence to visit California. Of his visit, which occurred + in the fall of 1786, he writes in his journal: “The governor put into the + execution of his orders in regard to, us a graciousness and air of + interest that merits from us the liveliest acknowledgments, and the padres + were as kind to us as the officers. We were invited to dine at the Mission + San Carlos, two leagues from Monterey, were received upon our arrival + there like lords of a parish visiting their estates. The president of the + missions, clad in his robe, met us at the door of the church, which was + illuminated as for the grandest festival. We were led to the foot of the + altar and the Te Deum chanted in thanksgiving for the happy issue of our + voyage.” + </p> + <p> + La Perouse’s account of the country, the people, and the missions is of + great value in giving us a picture of these times. In regard to the + Indians he said that he wished the padres might teach them, besides the + principles of the Christian religion, some facts about law and civil + government, “Although,” said he, “I admit that their progress would be + very slow, the pains which it would be necessary to take very hard and + tiresome.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Vancouver, with two vessels of the British navy, bound on an + exploring voyage round the world, was the next stranger to visit, + California. So much did he enjoy the courtesy of the Spanish officers that + when his map of the coast came out it was found that he had honored his + hosts of San Francisco and Monterey by naming for them two leading capes + of the territory, one Point Arguello and the other Point Sal. + </p> + <p> + As early as 1781 Russia had settlements in Sitka and adjacent islands, for + the benefit of its fur traders, and in 1805 the Czar sent a young officer + of his court to look into the condition of these trading posts. Count + Rezanof found the people suffering and saw that unless food was brought to + them promptly, they would die from starvation. San Francisco was the + nearest port, and though he knew that Spain did not allow trade with + foreign countries, the Russian determined to make the attempt to get + supplies there. Loading a vessel with goods which had been brought out for + the Indian trade of the north coast, he sailed southward. The story of his + visit is well told by Bret Harte in his beautiful poem, “Concepcion de + Arguello.” + </p> + <p> + Rezanof was warmly welcomed and generously entertained by Commander + Arguello of the presidio of San Francisco, but in vain did he try to trade + off his cargo for food for his starving people. The governor and his + officers dared not disobey the laws of Spain in regard to foreign trade. + While they were arguing and debating, however, something happened which + changed their views. The Count fell in love with the commander’s beautiful + daughter, Concepcion. Then, as the poem has it,— + </p> + <p> + “. . . points of gravest import yielded slowly one by one, And by Love was + consummated what Diplomacy begun.” + </p> + <p> + It seemed to the governor that the man who was to be son-in-law in the + powerful family of Arguello could not be considered as a foreigner, and + therefore the law need not apply in his case. Thus the Count got his ship + load of food and sailed away, promising to return as soon as possible for + his betrothed wife. One of the most interesting pictures of early + California is the poem which tells of this pathetic love story. + </p> + <p> + Count Rezanof was so pleased with the beauty and fertility of California + that his letters interested the Czar, who decided to found a colony on the + coast. An exploring expedition was sent out, and the territory about + Russian River in Sonoma County was purchased of the Indians for three + blankets, three pairs of trousers, two axes, three hoes, and some beads. + Fort Ross was the main settlement, and was the home of the governor, his + officers and their families, all accomplished, intelligent men and women. + Besides the soldiers there were a number of mechanics and a company of + natives from the Aleutian Islands, who were employed by the Russians to + hunt the otter. Up and down the coast roamed these wild sea hunters, even + collecting their furry game in San Francisco Bay and defying the + comandante of the presidio, who had no boats with which to pursue them, + and so could do nothing but fume and write letters of remonstrance to the + governor of Fort Ross. Spain, and later Mexico, looked with disfavor and + suspicion upon the Russian settlement, but the people of California were + always ready for secret trade with their northern neighbors. + </p> + <p> + In 1816 Otto von Kotzebue, captain of the Russian ship Rurik, visited San + Francisco and was entertained by the comandante, Lieutenant Luis Arguello. + With Captain Kotzebue was the German poet, Albert von Chamisso. + </p> + <p> + The Russian captain, with brighter faith and keener insight than any other + of the early visitors to the coast, says of the country: “It has hitherto + been the fate of these regions to remain unnoticed; but posterity will do + them justice; towns and cities will flourish where all is now desert; the + waters over which scarcely a solitary boat is yet seen to glide will + reflect the flags of all nations; and a happy, prosperous people receiving + with thankfulness what prodigal nature bestows for their use will dispense + her treasures over every part of the world.” + </p> + <p> + In the writings of Albert von Chamisso can be found a most interesting + description of his visit. To him is due the honor of giving to our + Californian poppy its botanical name. + </p> + <p> + In 1841, the supply of otter having become exhausted, the Russians sold + their property and claims about Fort Ross to the Swiss emigrant, the + genial John Sutter. In 1903, through the agency of the Landmarks Society, + this property and its still well-preserved buildings came into the + possession of the state of California. + </p> + <p> + As early as 1826 there were a number of foreigners settled in California. + These were mostly men from Great Britain or the United States who had + married California women and lived and often dressed like their + Spanish-speaking neighbors. Captain John Sutter, the Swiss who bought out + the Russians of Fort Ross, came to California in 1839. He obtained from + the Mexican government an extensive grant of land about the present site + of Sacramento, and here he erected the famous Sutter’s Fort where all + newcomers, were made welcome and, if they desired, given work under this + kindest of masters. Around the fort, which was armed with cannon bought + from the Russians, he built a high stockade. He gained the good will of + the Indians and had their young men drilled daily in military tactics by a + German officer. + </p> + <p> + Governor Alvarado, at the time of his revolution in 1837, had in his + forces, under a leader named Graham, a company of wandering Americans, + trappers and hunters of the roughest type. Although there was no real war, + and no fighting occurred, yet when Alvarado and his party were successful, + Graham and his men demanded large rewards, and because the governor would + not satisfy them they began to persecute him in every way possible. + Alvarado says: “I was insulted at every turn by the drunken followers of + Graham; when I walked in my garden they would climb on the wall and call + upon me in terms of the greatest familiarity, ‘Ho, Bautista, come here, I + want to speak to you.’ It was ‘Bautista’ here, ‘Bautista’ there.” + </p> + <p> + To express dissatisfaction they held meetings in which they talked loudly + about their country’s getting possession of the land, until Governor + Alvarado, having good reason to believe that they were plotting a + revolution, expelled them from the territory and sent them to Mexico. + </p> + <p> + The United States took up the defense of the exiles and insisted on their + being returned to California. It does not seem that the better class of + Americans who had been long residents of the country sympathized with + Graham and his followers, but from this time there were less kindly + relations between the Californians and the citizens of the United States + who came into the territory. + </p> + <p> + We come now to the story of the conquest. + </p> + <p> + At the beginning of the year 1845 the United States and Mexico were on the + verge of war over Texas, which had been formerly a Mexican province, but + through the influence of American settlers had rebelled, declaring itself + an independent state, and had applied for admission to the American Union. + Because the question of slavery was concerned in this application, it + caused intense excitement throughout the United States. The South was + determined to have the new territory come in as a slave-holding state, + while the men of the North opposed the annexation of another acre of slave + land. + </p> + <p> + Eight Northern legislatures protested against its admission. Twelve + leading senators of the North declared that “it would result in the + dissolution of the United States and would justify it.” On the other hand, + the South resolved that “it would be better to be out of the Union with + Texas than in it without her.” The South won its point. Texas was + admitted, and at once a dispute with Mexico arose over the boundary lines, + and war at length followed, being brought on in a measure by the entrance + of United States troops into the disputed territory. During the long + discussion over Texas the United States was having trouble with Great + Britain over Oregon, which was then the whole country lying between the + Mexican province of California and the Russian possessions on the north + coast (now Alaska). Before the invention of steam cars and the + construction of railroads, the Pacific coast region had been thought of + little value. The popular idea was expressed by Webster when he said: + “What do we want of this vast, worthless area, this region of savages and + wild beasts, of deserts, of shifting sands and whirlwinds of dust, of + cactus and prairie dogs?” But now the United States was waking up, and + things looked different. Of Oregon the Americans were determined to have + at least a portion. California, so far away from Mexico and so poorly + governed, they would like to take under their protection,—at least + the region around the great Bay of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + As early as 1840 the United States government urged its consul at + Monterey, an American named Larkin, secretly to influence the leading + Californians to follow the example of Texas, secede from Mexico, and join + the United States, where he was to assure them they would receive a + brother’s welcome. Just as he felt he might be successful his plans were + overthrown. + </p> + <p> + One morning in 1842 there came sailing into Monterey Bay two American + men-of-war. Suddenly, to the consternation of those watching from the + shore, one of the ships was seen to fire upon an outgoing Mexican sloop. + After making it captive the three vessels proceeded to the anchorage. + Great was the excitement in Monterey. Neither the comandante nor the + American consul could imagine the reason for such strange conduct. It was + soon explained, however, by the arrival of a ship’s boat bringing an + officer who delivered to the authorities a demand for the surrender of the + fort and place to the American commander of the Pacific fleet, Commodore + Jones, who was on board one of the newly arrived vessels. + </p> + <p> + The Mexican officials and the officers of the army were astonished; so, + too, was the United States consul. They knew of no war between these + countries. Since he had neither men nor arms to resist this strange + demand, Alvarado, who was acting for the absent governor, gave orders to + surrender, and the next day the Mexican flag and forces gave place to + those of the United States. + </p> + <p> + After the ceremony of taking possession, Commodore Jones had a talk with + the American consul, Mr. Larkin, and learned to his dismay that the + letters upon which he had acted and which indicated that war had been + declared were misleading, and from the latest news it was evident that + there was peace between the two countries. + </p> + <p> + The commodore saw at once that he had made a serious mistake, “a breach of + the faith of nations,” as it was called, which was liable to involve the + United States in grave difficulties. How best to undo his rash action was + now his thought. + </p> + <p> + He apologized to the Mexican commander and gave back possession of the + fort. Next, he had the unhappy task of taking down the American flag and + replacing it with the cactus and eagle banner of Mexico, to which the guns + of his vessels gave a salute of honor. From Monterey he sailed away to San + Pedro. There he waited while he sent a messenger to Governor Micheltorena, + who was living in Los Angeles, asking permission to call upon him and + apologize in person. This request was granted, and Commodore Jones and his + staff came up to Los Angeles, where they were the guests of their + countryman, Don Abel Stearns, who, as he had been working with Consul + Larkin to win the Californians to the United States, was most anxious to + undo the mischief of the flag raising. For the benefit of this history, + Dona Arcadia Bandini, who was the beautiful Spanish wife of Mr. Stearns, + tells the story of the visit:— + </p> + <p> + “We gave a dinner to the governor, the commodore, and their attendants. + Everything was very friendly; they seemed to enjoy themselves, and the + uniforms of the two countries were very handsome. On the next day but one + the governor gave a ball. It was to be at his home, which was the only + two-story house in Los Angeles. To show the Americans how patriotic the + people of California were, the governor requested in the invitations that + all the ladies wear white with a scarf of the Mexican colors,—red, + green, and white. Of course we gladly complied, though some of us had to + work hard to get our costumes ready. + </p> + <p> + “The day of the ball came, but with it came rain, such a storm as I never + had seen. As it drew toward evening the water came down faster and faster. + The governor had the only carriage in California, and this he was to send + for the commodore, Mr. Stearns, Isadora, and myself; but the poor young + officers had to walk, and their faces were long when they looked out at + the rain and then down at their fine uniforms and shining boots. + </p> + <p> + “Our California horses were not trained to pull loads and would not work + in the rain, so when the carriage came for us it was drawn by a number of + the governor’s Cholo soldiers. We got in quite safely, and it was only a + short distance we had to go, but as I was getting out the wind suddenly + changed and down came a torrent of water on me. It was clear that I could + not go to the ball in that condition, but the governor immediately ordered + the soldiers to pull the carriage back to my home, where I soon made + another toilet. The ball was delightful. The governor and the commodore + vied with each other in exchanging compliments and courtesies.” + </p> + <p> + It was a sad fact, however, that in spite of apologies, dinners, and + balls, Consul Larkin now found it difficult to persuade his California + neighbors that the United States looked upon them as brothers, and they + began to regard with suspicion the host of American emigrants who were + coming into the territory. + </p> + <p> + In 1842 Lieutenant Fremont, under orders from the United States + government, made the first of his wonderful journeys over deserts and + rough mountain ranges into the great unknown West. Soon he was to become + famous, not only in his own country but in Europe, as the “Pathfinder,” + the road maker of the West. Already many an Oregon emigrant had blessed + the name of Fremont for making plain the trail for himself and his loved + ones. + </p> + <p> + In 1846 Captain Fremont, conducting an exploring and scientific + expedition, entered California with sixty men and encamped in the valley + of the San Joaquin. Later he moved down into the heart of the California + settlements and encamped on the Salinas River. Possibly, knowing that war + would soon be declared between his country and Mexico, he had determined + to see as much of the enemy’s position as possible, not caring + particularly what the Mexican authorities might think. + </p> + <p> + As a natural result, General Castro, commander of the California forces, + objected; Fremont defied him, and there seemed a likelihood of immediate + war. There was no actual fighting, however, and in a day or two Fremont + continued his journey toward Oregon. + </p> + <p> + He had gone but a little way when he was overtaken by a captain of the + navy named Gillespie, bringing him letters from the officers of the + government at Washington. Upon reading these, Fremont immediately turned + about and marched swiftly back to Sutter’s Fort, where he encamped. Just + what orders the messages from Washington contained, no one knows; but it + is thought that perhaps they informed Fremont that war would be declared + very soon and that the government would be pleased if he could quietly get + possession of California. + </p> + <p> + If this was so, he had the best of reasons for his later actions. If not, + then in his eagerness to obtain for his country the valuable territory he + so well appreciated and in his desire to win for himself the honor of + gaining it, he brought on a war that caused the loss of many lives and + much property, and the growth of a feeling of bitterness and distrust + between Americans and Californians that has not yet entirely passed away. + Still it is by no means certain that California could have been won + without fighting, even had Fremont and the American settlers been more + patient. + </p> + <p> + Soon many Americans were gathered about Fremont’s camp; but though there + were a number of rumors as to what General Castro was going to do to them, + there was no action contrary to the previous kindly treatment all had + received from the hands of the Californians. Still the emigrants felt that + as soon as war was declared an army from Mexico might come up which would + not be so considerate of them and their families as had been their + California neighbors. + </p> + <p> + Having good reason to feel certain that Fremont would stand back of them + if they began the fight, a company of Americans attacked one of Castro’s + officers, who, with a few men, was taking a band of horses to Monterey. + Securing the horses, but letting the men who had them in charge get away, + they hurried them to Fremont’s camp, where they left them while they went + on to Sonoma. Here they made prisoner General Vallejo, commander of that + department of the territory, together with his brother and staff. + </p> + <p> + General Vallejo was one of the leading Californians of the north, a man of + fine character, quiet and conservative, generous toward the needy + emigrants and favorable to annexation with the United States. When he saw + the rough character of the men surrounding his house that Sunday morning, + he was at first somewhat alarmed. A man named Semple, who was one of the + attacking party, describing the event in a Monterey paper sometime + afterward, says: “Most of us were dressed in leather hunting shirts, many + were very greasy, and all were heavily armed. We were about as rough a + looking set of men as one could well imagine.” When they assured the + general that they were acting under orders from Fremont, he seemed to feel + no more anxiety, gave up his keys, and arranged for the protection of the + people of his settlement. He was first taken to Fremont’s headquarters, + then for safe keeping was sent on to Sutter’s Fort. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile the party which had been left in charge of affairs at Sonoma + chose one of their number, a man named Ide, as their leader. Realizing + that they had begun a war, they felt the need of a flag, and not daring to + use that of the United States, they proceeded to make one for themselves. + For their emblem they chose the strongest and largest of the animals of + California, the grizzly bear. The flag was made of a Mexican rebosa or + scarf of unbleached muslin about a yard in width and five feet long. To + the bottom of this they sewed a strip of red flannel; in one corner they + outlined a five-pointed star, and facing it a grizzly bear. These were + filled in with red ink and under them in black letters were the words + “California Republic.” The temporary government of the followers of the + Bear Flag is generally known as the “Bear Flag Republic.” + </p> + <p> + As soon as it seemed probable that the Californians under General Castro + were marching to attack the Americans, Captain Fremont joined his + countrymen, and from that time the United States flag took the place of + the banner of the bear. A little later Captain Fremont took the presidio + and port of San Francisco, and to him is due the honor of naming beautiful + Golden Gate. + </p> + <p> + About two weeks after the capture of Sonoma, Commodore Sloat, with two + vessels of the United States navy, entered the harbor of Monterey. + Although he had come for the purpose of taking the territory for his + country, and had orders to see to it that England did not get possession + of California ahead of him, yet he had been cautioned to deal kindly with + the Californians, and he hesitated to take decided steps. It took him six + days to make up his mind, and then he came to a decision partly on account + of the actions of Fremont and his men. Slowly up the flagstaff on the fort + of Monterey rose the Stars and Stripes. Unfolded by the sea breeze, the + beautiful flag of the United States waved again over the land of the + padres, and this time to stay. A few days later Commodore Stockton reached + California to take command in place of Commodore Sloat, who returned home. + Stockton appointed Fremont commander of the American forces on land, and + together they completed the conquest of the territory. + </p> + <p> + It was unfortunate that Commodore Stockton had so lately arrived from the + East that he did not fully understand the state of affairs. As he believed + the wild rumors which, falsely, accused the Californians of treachery and + cruelty, his proclamations were harsh and unjust to the proud but kindly + people whom he was conquering. Many of the late historians find much to + blame in the treatment given by the Americans to the people of California. + Severity was often used when kindness would have had far better effect. + </p> + <p> + Los Angeles and San Diego were taken by Stockton and Fremont without any + fighting, and leaving a few troops in the south, both commanders returned + to Monterey. They were soon recalled by the news that the people of Los + Angeles had risen against the harsh rule of Captain Gillespie, who had + been left in command; that the Americans had surrendered but had been + allowed to retire to San Pedro, and that all the south was in a state of + active rebellion. + </p> + <p> + Landing at San Pedro, Stockton waited a few days, then fearing the enemy + was too strong for his forces, sailed away to San Diego. Here the + Americans received a hearty welcome, and much-needed assistance, from the + Spanish families of Bandini and Arguello. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Bandini escorted a body of the United States troops to his home rancho + on the peninsula of Lower California, where he gave them cattle and other + food supplies. For this aid to the invaders he was forced to remove his + family from their home there, and on the journey up to San Diego. Mrs. + Bandini made what was probably the first American flag ever constructed in + California. As they neared San Diego the officer in command discovered + that he had neglected to take with him a flag. He did not wish to enter + the settlement without one, and when the matter was explained to Mrs. + Bandini, who was journeying in a carreta with her maids and children, she + offered to supply the need. + </p> + <p> + From the handbag on her arm came needle, thimble, thread, and scissors, + and from the clothing of her little ones the necessary red, white, and + blue cloth. Under the direction of the young officer she soon had a very + fair-looking flag, and beneath its folds the party marched into the town. + That night the band of the flagship Congress serenaded Mrs. Bandini in her + San Diego home, and the next day Commodore Stockton called to thank her in + person. The flag, it is said, he sent to Washington, where it is still to + be found with other California trophies. + </p> + <p> + The most severe battle of the war in the state of California was fought on + the San Pasqual rancho in San Diego County. The forces engaged were those + of General Andres Pico, who commanded the Californians, and General + Stephen Kearny, who had marched overland, entered the territory on the + southwest, and was on his way to join Stockton. Hearing that the country + was conquered and the fighting over, the American officer had sent back + about two hundred of his men, but he was afterward reinforced by Captain + Gillespie and fifty men sent by Stockton to meet him. Several American + officers were killed in the battle of San Pasqual, and their brave + commander severely wounded. + </p> + <p> + Commodore Stockton, on his march from San Diego to Los Angeles, twice + engaged the enemy, once at the crossing of the San Gabriel River and once + on the Laguna rancho just east of the city. The Californians behaved with + great bravery. All of them were poorly armed, many having only lances and + no fire-arms, and what powder they had was almost worthless; yet three + times they dashed upon the square of steadily firing United States + marines. + </p> + <p> + This was the last battle in the territory. The Californians retreated + across the hills to the present site of Pasadena. Here, at the little + adobe house on the banks of the Arroyo Seco, they separated. General + Flores, their commander, was to ride with his staff through the stormy + night, down El Camino Real toward Mexico. General Andres Pico, upon whom + devolved the duty of surrender, was to ride with his associates to the old + Cahuenga ranch house, the first station on the highway from Los Angeles to + Santa Barbara. There he met Captain Fremont, and the treaty was signed + which closed hostilities. The terms proposed by Fremont were favorable for + the Californians and did much to make way for a peaceful settlement of all + difficulties. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VII. — At the Touch of King Midas + </h2> + <p> + It was by chance that gold was discovered in both northern and southern + California, and by chance that many great fortunes were made. + </p> + <p> + Juan Lopez, foreman of the little ranch of St. Francis in Los Angeles + County, one morning in March, 1842, while idly digging up a wild onion, or + brodecia, discovered what he thought lumps of gold clinging to its roots. + Taking samples of the metal, he rode down to Los Angeles to the office of + Don Abel Stearns, who recognized it as gold. + </p> + <p> + Soon Juan and his companions were busy digging and washing the earth and + sands in the region where the little wild flowers grew. These mines were + called “placer,” from a Spanish word meaning loose or moving about, + because the metal was loosely mixed with sand and gravel, generally in the + bed of a stream or in a ravine where there had once been a flow of water + which had brought the gold down from its home in the mountains. + </p> + <p> + From these mines Don Abel Stearns sent, in a sailing vessel round Cape + Horn, the first parcel of California gold dust ever received at the United + States mint, and it proved to be of very good quality. + </p> + <p> + The San Fernando mines, as they were called, because they were on a ranch + that had once belonged to San Fernando mission, yielded many thousand + dollars’ worth of gold dust. It is on record that one firm in Los Angeles, + which handled most of the gold from these and other mines of southern + California, paid out in the course of twenty years over two million + dollars for southern gold. + </p> + <p> + The true golden touch, however, was to come in a different part of the + territory among people of another race and tongue. It was to transform + California from an almost unknown land with slight and scattered + population to a community so rich as to disturb the money markets of the + world; a community sheltering a great host of people, all young, all + striving eagerly for the fortunes they had traveled thousands of miles to + find. + </p> + <p> + After the signing of the treaty of Cahuenga between Colonel Fremont and + General Pico, the Spanish-speaking people settled down quietly and + peacefully. The only disagreements were between the American leaders, + General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and between Kearny and Fremont, who + had been appointed by Stockton military governor of the territory. This + appointment General Kearny disputed. General Vallejo tells in one of his + letters of having received on the same day communication from Kearny, + Stockton, and Fremont, each signing himself commander-in-chief. + </p> + <p> + Whoever was right in the quarrel, Fremont was the chief sufferer, for + General Kearny, after Stockton left, ordered him to return East under + arrest and at Washington to undergo a military trial or court-martial for + mutiny and disobedience of orders. Although the court found him guilty and + sentenced him to be dismissed from the army, the President, remembering + his services in the exploration of the West, and quite possibly thinking + him not the person most to blame, pardoned and restored him to his + position. Fremont, feeling that he had done nothing wrong, refused the + pardon and resigned from the army. The next year the new President, + Taylor, showed his opinion of the matter by appointing Fremont to conduct + the important work of establishing the boundaries between the United + States and Mexico. + </p> + <p> + General Kearny, when he departed for the East, left Colonel Mason, of the + regular army, as military governor of California. Mason chose as his + adjutant, or secretary, a young lieutenant named Sherman, who, years + later, in the Civil War, by his wonderful march through the heart of the + South, came to be considered one of the greatest generals of his time. + </p> + <p> + Soon after the Mexican war many settlers were gathered about Sutter’s Fort + and San Francisco Bay. There were about two thousand Americans, most of + them strong, hardy men, all overjoyed that the territory was in the hands + of the United States and all eager to know what would finally be decided + in regard to it. Reports kept arriving of parties of emigrants that were + about to start overland for California. + </p> + <p> + “They are as certain to come as that the sun will rise to-morrow,” said + genial Captain Sutter, “and as the overland trail ends at my rancho, I + must be ready to furnish them provisions. They are always hungry when they + get there, especially the tired little children, and the only thing for me + to do is to build a flour mill to grind my grain.” + </p> + <p> + “Well and good,” said James Marshall, one of his assistants, an American + by birth, a millwright by trade; “but to build a flour mill requires + lumber, and lumber calls for a sawmill.” + </p> + <p> + “We will build it, too,” said Sutter. “Take a man and provisions and go up + toward the mountains; there must be good places on my land. I leave it all + in your hands.” The place was found on a swift mountain stream. Near the + present site of Coloma, in the midst of pine forests, on the water soon to + be so well known as the American River, the sawmill was located. Marshall + also marked out a rough wagon road forty-five miles long down to the fort. + Captain Sutter was delighted. + </p> + <p> + “Set to work as soon as you like, Marshall,” he exclaimed. “This is your + business.” Soon the mill was built and almost ready for use. + </p> + <p> + “You may let the water into the mill race to-night,” said Marshall to his + men. “I want to test it and also to carry away some of the loose dirt in + the bed.” + </p> + <p> + Down came the water with a rush, carrying off before it the loose earth; + all night it ran, leaving the race with a clean, smooth bed. The next day, + Monday, January 24, 1848,—wonderful day for California—James + Marshall went out to look at the mill race to see if everything was ready + to begin work. + </p> + <p> + “To-morrow,” thought he, “we will commence sawing, and put things through + as fast as possible. The men are waiting, we have plenty of trees down, + there is nothing to hinder;” but at that moment as he walked beside the + bed of the tail race he saw some glittering yellow particles among its + sands. He stopped and picked one up. The golden touch had come. + </p> + <p> + The following is Marshall’s own description as published in the Century + Magazine (Vol. 41). “It made my heart thump, for I was certain it was + gold. Yet it did not seem to be of the right color; all the gold coin I + had seen was of a reddish tinge; this looked more like brass. I recalled + to mind all the metals I had seen or heard of, but I could find none that + resembled this. Suddenly the idea flashed across my mind that it might be + iron pyrites. I trembled to think of it.” + </p> + <p> + Finally, to make sure, Marshall, like Juan Lopez, mounted his horse and + rode away to find some one with more knowledge than himself. That some one + was Captain Sutter, who looked in his encyclopedia, probably the only one + in the territory at that time, and by comparing the weight of the metal + with the weight of an equal bulk of water found its specific gravity, + which proved it to be gold. Still Sutter thought that he should like + better authority. General Sherman, in Memoirs, tells how the news came to + Monterey, where, he was the governor’s gay young military secretary:— + </p> + <p> + “I remember one day, in the spring of 1848, that two men, Americans, came + into the office and inquired for the Governor. I asked their business, and + one answered that they had just come down from Captain Sutter on special + business and they wanted to see Governor Mason in person. I took them in + to the colonel and left them together. After some time the colonel came to + his door and called to me. I went in and my attention was directed to a + series of papers unfolded on his table, in which lay about half an ounce + of placer gold. + </p> + <p> + “Mason said tome, ‘What is that?’ I touched it and examined one or two of + the larger pieces and asked, ‘Is it gold?’ I said that if that were gold + it could be easily tested, first by its malleability and next by acids. I + took a piece in my teeth and the metallic lustre was perfect. I then + called to the clerk, Baden, to bring in an ax and hatchet from the + backyard. When these were brought, I took the largest piece and beat it + out flat, and beyond doubt it was metal and a pure metal. Still we + attached little importance to the fact, for gold was known to exist at San + Fernando at the south and yet was not considered of much value.” + </p> + <p> + About this time some of the business men who had settled in the little + town of Yerba Buena, finding that all ships that entered the harbor were + sent by their owners not to Yerba Buena, of which they knew nothing, but + to San Francisco, persuaded the town council to change the name of the + settlement from Yerba Buena to San Francisco, which was already the name + of the mission and presidio. + </p> + <p> + “Gold! Gold!! Gold!!! from the American River,” cried a horseman from the + mines, riding down Market Street, waving his hat in one hand, a bottle of + gold dust in the other. + </p> + <p> + When words like these dropped from the lips of a messenger in any of the + little communities, the result was like a powerful explosion. Everybody + scattered, not wounded and dying, however, but full of life, ready to + endure anything, risk anything, for the sake of finding the precious metal + which enables its owner to have for himself and those he loves the + comfortable and beautiful things of the world. + </p> + <p> + The result at San Francisco is thus described in one of its newspapers of + 1848: “Stores are closed, places of business vacated, a number of houses + tenantless, mechanical labor suspended or given up entirely, nowhere the + pleasant hum of industry salutes the ear as of late; but as if a curse had + arrested our onward course of enterprise, everything wears a desolate, + sombre look. All through the Sundays the little church on the plaza is + silent. All through the week the door of the alcalde’s office remains + locked. As for the shipping, it is left at anchor; first sailors, then + officers departing for the mines.” + </p> + <p> + And how was it at the logging camp where Marshall made his great + discovery? The new sawmill, built with such high hopes, was soon silent + and deserted. No more logs were cut, and no lumber hauled down for the + flour mill. There were no men to be found who were willing to cut and saw + logs, build mills, or put in the spring wheat when they might be finding + their fortunes at the mines. + </p> + <p> + The newly arrived emigrants suffered no doubt from hunger; maybe the + children cried for bread; but most of the men, as soon as they had rested + a little and knew what was going on, got together money enough to buy the + simple implements of knife, pan, pick, and cradle, which were all the + tools necessary for the easy placer mining of those days, and joined the + endless procession of those who were pushing up toward the streams and + canyons round Sutter’s famous sawmill. + </p> + <p> + As summer came on, the excitement became intense. Not only from the region + around San Francisco Bay, but from San Diego and Los Angeles, people came + flocking to the mines. Reports were current of men finding hundreds of + dollars’ worth of gold a day, gaining a fortune in a few weeks. It was + almost impossible to hire laborers either in San Francisco or on the + ranches. Even the soldiers caught the gold fever and deserted. + </p> + <p> + In the summer, Governor Mason and Lieutenant Sherman visited the mines. + Upon their return to Monterey, having seen for themselves that many even + of the wildest rumors were true, they made arrangements to send on to + Washington official announcement of the discovery. + </p> + <p> + How this was accomplished is interesting. A lieutenant of the army was + appointed by the governor for the important office, and a can of sample + gold was purchased. + </p> + <p> + The only vessel on the coast ready for departure was a boat bound for + Peru. On this ship the lieutenant with his pot of gold and the governor’s + report embarked at Monterey. He reached the Peruvian port just in time to + catch the British steamer back to Panama. Crossing the Isthmus on + horseback, he took a steamer for Kingston, Jamaica. There he found a + vessel just leaving for New Orleans. Reaching that city he at once + telegraphed the news to Washington, trusting it would be in time to form + part of the President’s message. + </p> + <p> + On December 5, 1848, the President, in his message to Congress, after + speaking of the discovery of gold in California, said, “The accounts of + the abundance of gold in that territory are of such extraordinary + character as would scarcely command belief but for the authentic reports + of officers in the public service who have visited the mineral districts + and drew the facts which they detail from personal observation.” + </p> + <p> + The certainty that the wonderful reports of the gold country were true, + electrified not only the whole country but the whole civilized world. + Large numbers of people began immediate preparation for making the + overland journey as soon as the weather should permit; while others, too + impatient to wait, left for California by the way of the Isthmus. + </p> + <p> + In February, 1849, there arrived at Monterey the Panama, the first + steamboat to visit the coast. The whole population turned out to see and + welcome it. The Californians as they compared it with the stately frigates + and ships they had been accustomed to see, exclaimed, “How ugly!” Although + it was not a beautiful vessel, its arrival was an event of great + importance, for it was the first of a line of steamers which were under + contract to ply monthly between San Francisco and Panama, and with its + coming began such an immigration as the world has seldom known. + </p> + <p> + In 1849 nearly twenty-five thousand people came by land and almost as many + more by sea, from the States alone. There were between thirty and forty + thousand from other parts of the world. + </p> + <p> + San Francisco at the time of the discovery had about seven hundred + inhabitants, and shortly after only the population of a hamlet, because so + many had gone to the gold fields. Now it suddenly found itself called upon + to give shelter to thousands of people bound for the mines, and many also + returning, some successful, others penniless and eager to get work at the + very high wages offered, sometimes as much as thirty dollars a day. + </p> + <p> + There were streets to be surveyed, houses and warehouses to be built, + lumber and brick to be provided. People were living in tents, in brush + houses, even in shelter made by four upright green poles over which were + spread matting and old bedding. Hundreds of ships lay helpless in the + harbor waiting for crews, often for men to unload the cargoes. No longer + could the papers complain of lack of business. The town was like a hive, + but such a disorderly one as would have driven wild any colony of bees. + </p> + <p> + All was mud flats or water where are now the water front and some of the + leading business streets of the city. On these flats old unseaworthy + vessels were drawn up and did duty side by side with rough board buildings + as dwellings and stores. In the rainy seasons the streets were lakes of + mud where mules and drays were sometimes literally submerged. The arrival + of the mail steamer was the event of the month to this host of people so + far away from home and loved ones. Guns were fired, bells rang to announce + the approach of the vessel, then there was a wild rush to the post office, + where the long lines of men, most of them wearing flannel shirts, wide + hats, and high boots, extended far down the street. Very high prices were + sometimes paid, as high even as one hundred dollars, by a late corner to + buy from some one lucky enough to be near the head of the line a position + near the delivery window. Then if no letter came, how great was the + disappointment! + </p> + <p> + One man thus described the mines:— + </p> + <p> + “I was but a lad and my party took me along only because I had a knack at + cooking and was willing to do anything in order to see the place where + such wonderful fortunes were made. It was a hot summer afternoon when, + crossing a region of low, thinly wooded hills, we looked down upon + American River; away to the east were high mountain ranges, their peaks, + although it was still August, snow-tipped. + </p> + <p> + “From them came swiftly down the already famous river. Its volume was + evidently diminished from the heat, and along its gravelly bed men were + digging the sand and gravel into buckets. As I reached them and watched + them work I was greatly disappointed. It seemed like very ordinary dirt + they were handling; I saw no gleam of the yellow sands of which I had + heard such stories. I followed one of the men who carried the buckets of + earth to something that looked very like our family cradle with the + footboard knocked out. Where the slats might have been there was nailed a + piece of sheet iron punched full of holes. Above this was a chute in which + the dirt was emptied. The cradle was then rocked violently while water was + poured over its contents. The lighter earth and gravel were carried away, + while the gold, being heavier, rested either on the sheet iron or between + the slats on the cradle bottom. + </p> + <p> + “Some of the men had no cradle, only a large pan made of sheet iron. This + pan, when half filled with dirt, was sunk in the water and shaken sidewise + until the dirt and gravel were washed away and only heavy grains of gold + remained. There were enough of these to make my eyes open wide. The men + who had the cradle were making pretty steadily from eighteen to twenty + dollars a day apiece. + </p> + <p> + “After a day or two I visited the dry diggings. Here I saw things that + were more astonishing to me than anything that I had seen at the placer + mines. Some men were at work in a little canyon, and I sat on the bowlder + and watched them digging into the earth with their knives and picking up + every few minutes spoons of earth in which there were plainly visible + little lumps of gold the size of a pea. This was considered a rich find; + the men were joyful over their success. Suddenly one of the older ones, + looking up at me, sang out:— + </p> + <p> + “Say, Sonny, why do you sit there idle? Out with that bread knife of yours + and dig for your fortune. Across this ridge is another ravine. It may be + like this. Try your luck, anyway.’ + </p> + <p> + “Somehow, until that moment, it had not entered my boyish mind, that I + might join this great mad race for wealth. I sprang to my feet. My heart + began to pound faster than it did on the glorious day when in my boyhood + home I had won the mile race at the county fair. There was a singing in my + ears; for the minute I could scarcely breathe. I had heard of the gold + fever, and now I had caught it. + </p> + <p> + “I dashed up the hillside, fairly rolled down into the rocky little valley + beyond, and began to dig wildly; but I found only good honest earth, rich + noble soil so like our fertile bottom lands at home. My spirits began to + sink, my heart to resume its natural beats. I worked half an hour or so + without finding any sign, as it was called, and began to feel discouraged. + In the canyon, which was very narrow, a large bowlder blocked my progress. + I determined to dig it loose. This was the work of some time, but finally + I succeeded in dislodging it, and drawing up my legs out of its way + watched with a youngster’s delight its wild dash down the mountain side to + the stream far below. + </p> + <p> + “Slowly I turned to resume my work, but what I saw brought me to my feet + with a yell. The socket where the stone had rested was dotted with yellow + lumps of gold as big as a pea, some even larger. Down I went upon my knees + and I fell to work with a will—the strength of a man seemed in my + arms. Off came my coat, and spreading it out I scooped the rich dirt into + it by the handful. I had happened on a pocket, as it was called; a turn in + the bed of some old mountain stream. The dirt from this when washed + yielded me about five hundred dollars, but it was all except cook’s wages + that I ever made at the mines. + </p> + <p> + “Before I left the gold fields I saw some small attempt at hydraulic + mining which later proved so successful. From a stream up in a canyon some + enterprising men had built a log flume and connected with it a large hose + and nozzle they had brought up from the coast. Turning the water in this + on a dry hill rich in gold deposit, they easily and rapidly washed the + dirt down into a sluice or trough below. This had bars nailed across, and + water running through carried the dirt away while the gold dropped into + the crevices between the bars.” This method of mining and also quartz + mining, that is, digging gold and other metals from rock, is described in + another chapter. + </p> + <p> + The gold-bearing earth extended along the west slope of the Sierra Nevada + and their base, from Feather River on the north to the Merced River on the + south, a territory about thirty miles wide by two hundred and fifty long. + In this district are still some of the richest mines in the world. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VIII. — The Great Stampede + </h2> + <p> + The rush of people to the Pacific coast after the gold discovery may well + be called a stampede. The terrible overland journey, over thousands of + miles of Indian country, across high mountains and wide stretches of + desert, was often undertaken with poor cattle, half the necessary supplies + of food, and but little knowledge of the route. On the other hand, those + who preferred going by water would embark in any vessel, however unsafe, + sailing from Atlantic ports to the Isthmus. + </p> + <p> + In New York the excitement was especially great. Every old ship that could + be overhauled and by means of fresh paint made to look seaworthy was gayly + dressed in bunting and advertised to sail by the shortest and safest route + to California. The sea trip is thus described by an elderly gentleman who + made the journey when a boy of ten:— + </p> + <p> + “Together with the news of the discovery of gold came also reports of a + warm, sunny land which winter never visited, where life could be spent in + the open air,—a favorable spot where sickness was almost unknown. It + was, I think, as much on account of my mother’s health as to make his + fortune that my father decided to go to California. The water route was + chosen as being easier for her. + </p> + <p> + “The saying good-by to our relatives had been hard; but by the time we + were three miles from home we children ceased to grieve, so interested + were we in new sights and experiences. + </p> + <p> + “I had never seen salt water until that morning in New York, when we + boarded the gayly trimmed brig, the Jane Dawson, which was to carry us to + the Isthmus. To my sister and myself it was a real grief that our vessel + had not a more romantic name. We decided to call it the Sea Slipper, from + a favorite story, and the Sea Slipper it has always been to us. + </p> + <p> + “On the deck there were so many unhappy partings that we became again + downhearted, a feeling which was intensified in the choppy seas of the + outer bay to the utter misery of mind and body. We got ourselves somehow + into our berths, where, with mother for company, we remained for many + hours. Finally the sea grew calmer and we were just beginning to enjoy + ourselves when off Cape Hatteras a severe storm broke upon us. The vessel + pitched and rolled; the baggage and boxes of freight tumbled about, + threatening the lives of those who were not kept to their berths by + illness. + </p> + <p> + “Although I was not seasick I dared not go about much. One night, however, + growing tired of the misery around me, I crawled over to the end of the + farther cabin, which seemed to be deserted. Presently the captain and my + father came down the stairs and I heard the officer say in a hoarse + whisper. ‘I will not deceive you, Mr. Hunt; the mainmast is down, the + steering gear useless, the crew is not up to its business, and I fear we + cannot weather the night!’ I almost screamed aloud in my fright, but just + then a long, lanky figure rose from the floor where it had been lying. It + was one of the passengers, a typical Yankee. + </p> + <p> + “‘See here, captain,’ he said, ‘my chum and I are ship carpenters, and the + other man of our party is one of the best sailors of the Newfoundland + fleet; just give us a chance to help you, and maybe we needn’t founder yet + awhile.’ The chance was given, and we did not founder. + </p> + <p> + “Some days later we anchored in the harbor of Chagres. There were many + vessels in the bay, and a large number of people waiting to secure passage + across the Isthmus. They crowded around the landing place of the river + canoes and fought and shouted until we children were frightened at the + uproar, and taking our hands mother retired to the shade of some trees to + wait. + </p> + <p> + “It was almost night when father called to us to come quickly, as he had a + boat engaged for us. It lay at the landing, a long canoe, in one end of + which our things were already stored. Some men who were friends of + father’s and had joined our party stood beside it with revolvers in hand + watching to see that no one claimed the canoe or coaxed the boatmen away. + Mother and Sue were quickly tucked beneath the awning, the rest of us + tumbled in where we could, and at once our six nearly naked negro boatmen + pushed out the boat and began working it up the stream by means of long + poles which they placed on the bottom of the river bed, thus propelling us + along briskly but with what seemed to me great exertion. + </p> + <p> + “To us children the voyage was most interesting. On either side the banks + were covered with such immense trees as we had never dreamed of. The ferns + were more like trees than plants, and the colors of leaves and flowers so + gorgeous they were dazzling. The fruits were many and delicious, but our + father was very careful about our eating, and would not allow us to + indulge as we desired. + </p> + <p> + “The night came on as suddenly as though a great bowl had been turned over + us. For an hour or more we watched with delight the brilliant fireflies + illuminating all the atmosphere except at the end of the boat, where the + red light of a torch lit the scene. After we had lain down for the night + the moon rose and I could not enough admire the beauty of the tropical + foliage, with the silvery moonlight incrusting every branch and leaf. + </p> + <p> + “The second day we left the boats and took mules for the rest of the + journey. To my delight I was allowed an animal all to myself. Sue rode in + a chair strapped to the back of a native, and our luggage was taken in the + same manner, the porters carrying such heavy loads that it did not seem + possible they could make the journey. + </p> + <p> + “To my sister and me, the city of Panama was amazingly beautiful, with its + pearl oyster shells glittering on steeple and bell tower, and the dress of + the people as magnificent as the costumes described in the ‘Arabian + Nights.’ In Panama we waited a long time for a steamer. The town was + crowded and many people were ill. My mother was constantly helping some + one until my father forbade her to visit any stranger, because cholera had + broken out and many were dying. + </p> + <p> + “It was a joyful morning when we boarded the steamer California, steamed + out on the blue Pacific, and headed northward. We had more comfortable + quarters and better food than when on the Atlantic; but never on the + steamer did we feel the sense of grandeur and power that came to us on the + brig when, with white sails all set, she rushed like a bird before the + wind. + </p> + <p> + “Toward the close of the voyage there was so much fog that our captain did + not know just whereabouts we were, and for that reason kept well out to + sea. One morning there came a rap at the stateroom door, and a loud voice + cried, ‘Wake up, we shall be in San Francisco in less than an hour.’ What + a time of bustle followed! The sea was rough. Sue and I fell over each + other and the valises in our eagerness to get dressed. I, being a boy, was + out first. The sun was shining as though it was making up for the days it + was hidden from us. The water was blue and sparkling, the air warm and + delightful after the cold, foggy weather. + </p> + <p> + “We were steaming due east, and almost before I knew it we had passed + through Golden Gate and were in the quiet water of the bay. By the time + mother and Sue were on deck, we were nearing the wharf. I thought then + that San Francisco was rather disappointing in its looks, with its + unpainted houses of all kinds of architecture, and the streets like + washouts in the hills, but soon I learned to love it with a faithfulness + which was felt by many of the pioneers and will end only with life.” + </p> + <p> + Such were some of the hardships and discomforts endured by those who + traveled to California by water during the period of the gold excitement. + Yet those who made the journey by land often suffered even more. + </p> + <p> + The first immigrant train to California started in 1841. + </p> + <p> + It brought among its members a young man named Bidwell, afterward United + States representative from California. Describing this journey in the + Century Magazine (Vol. 41), Mr. Bidwell says:— + </p> + <p> + “The party consisted of sixty-nine persons. Each one furnished his own + supplies of not less than a barrel of flour, sugar, and other rations in + proportion. I doubt whether there was a hundred dollars in money in the + whole party, but all were anxious to go. + </p> + <p> + “Our ignorance of the route was complete. We knew that California lay + west, and that was all. Some of the maps consulted and supposed to be + correct showed a lake in the vicinity of where we now know Salt Lake to + be, that was three or four hundred miles in length, with two outlets, both + running into the Pacific Ocean, either apparently larger than the + Mississippi River. We were advised to take along tools to make canoes, so + that if we found the country too rough for our wagons, we could descend + one of these rivers to the Pacific.” It was two years later that Fremont, + the pathfinder and roadmaker of the West, surveyed the great Salt Lake and + made a map of it. The Bidwell party after many hardships reached + California in safety. + </p> + <p> + The unhappy Donner party, also home seekers, made the journey in 1848. + They lost their way and became snow-bound in the mountains. A number of + them died from cold and starvation, but the remainder were rescued by + relief parties sent out from Sutter’s Fort. Their sufferings were too + terrible to be told, and yet they started with fair hopes and as excellent + an outfit as any party that ever crossed the plains. The following is from + an account of the journey written by one of their number for the Century + Magazine (Vol. 42):— + </p> + <p> + “I was a child,” says Virginia Reed Murphy, “when we started for + California, yet I remember the journey well. Our wagons were all made to + order, and I can say truthfully that nothing like the Reed family wagon + ever started across the plains. The entrance was on the side, and one + stepped into a small space like a room, in the center of the wagon. On the + right and left were comfortable spring seats, and here was also a little + stove whose pipe, which ran through the top of the wagon, was prevented by + a circle of tin from setting fire to the canvas. A board about a foot wide + extended over the wheels on either side, the full length of the wagon, + thus forming the foundation of a large roomy second story on which were + placed our beds; under the spring seats were compartments where we stored + the many things useful for such a journey. Besides this we had two wagons + with provisions. + </p> + <p> + “The family wagon was drawn by four yoke of choice oxen, the others by + three yoke. Then we had saddle horses and cows, and last of all my pony. + He was a beauty, and his name was Billy. The chief pleasure to which I + looked forward in crossing the plains was to ride on my pony every day. + But a day came when I had no pony to ride, for the poor little fellow gave + out. He could not endure the hardships of ceaseless travel. When I was + forced to part with him, I cried as I sat in the back of the wagon + watching him become smaller and smaller as we drove on until I could not + see him any more. But this grief did not come to me until I had enjoyed + many happy weeks with my pet. + </p> + <p> + “Never can I forget the morning when we bade farewell to our kindred and + friends. My father, with tears in his eyes, tried to smile as one friend + after another grasped his hand in a last farewell. My mother was overcome + with grief. At last we were all in the wagon, the drivers cracked their + whips, the oxen moved slowly forward, the long journey had begun. + </p> + <p> + “The first Indians we met were the Caws, who kept the ferry and had to + take us over the Caw River. I watched them closely, hardly daring to draw + my breath, feeling sure that they would sink the boat in the middle of the + stream, and very thankful I was when I found that they were not like the + Indians in grandmamma’s stories. + </p> + <p> + “When we reached the Blue River, Kansas, the water was so high that the + men made rafts of logs twenty-five feet in length, united by cross + timbers. Ropes were attached to both ends and by these the rafts were + pulled back and forth. The banks of the stream being steep, our + heavy-laden wagons had to be let down carefully with ropes so that the + wheels might run into the hollow between the logs. This was a dangerous + task, for in the wagons were the women and children, who could cross the + rapid stream in no other way. + </p> + <p> + “After striking the great valley of the Platte the road was good, the + country beautiful. Stretching out before us as far as the eye could reach + was a valley as green as emerald, dotted here and there with flowers of + every imaginable color. Here flowed the grand old Platte—a wide, + shallow stream. This part of our journey was an ideal pleasure trip. How I + enjoyed riding my pony, galloping over the plain gathering wild flowers! + At night the young folks would gather about the camp fire chattering + merrily, and often a song would be heard or some clever dancer would give + us a jig on the hind door of a wagon. + </p> + <p> + “In the evening, when we rode into camp, our wagons were placed so as to + form a circle or corral, into which, after they had been allowed to graze, + the cattle were driven to prevent the Indians from stealing them. The camp + fire and the tents were placed on the outside of this square. There were + many expert riflemen in the party, and we never lacked game. I witnessed + many a buffalo hunt and more than once was in the chase close behind my + father. For weeks buffalo and antelope steaks were the main article on our + bill of fare, and our appetites were a marvel.” The Reed family was the + only one belonging to the Donner party, it is said, who made the terrible + journey without losing a member. + </p> + <p> + To the young people and men there was often much pleasure in crossing the + continent in a prairie schooner, as the white-covered emigrant wagon was + called; but to the women it was another matter, since they had to ride + constantly in a wagon, attend to the little children, and do the cooking, + often under great difficulties. Many of them learned to be experts in camp + cooking, requiring nothing more than a little hollow in the hard ground + for a range; or if there were plenty of stones, the cooking place might be + built up a little. Over this simple contrivance, with the aid of a couple + of iron crossbars, a kettle, a frying pan, and coffee pot, many a + delicious meal was easily and quickly prepared. + </p> + <p> + Mrs. Hecox, in the Overland Monthly, says: “I am sure the men never + realized how hard a time the women had. Of course the men worked hard too, + but after their day’s travel was over they sat around the camp fire, + smoked, and told stories, while the women were tending the children, + mending clothes, and making ready for the next day’s meals. + </p> + <p> + “After we crossed the Mississippi, it commenced raining, and for days we + splashed through the mud and slush. When we camped at night, we had to + wade about and make some kind of shelter for our fires, and I was obliged + to keep the children cooped up in the wagons. Here let me say that I never + heard an unkind word spoken among the women all the way across the plain. + The children were good, too, and never out of humor either, unless some + cross man scolded them. + </p> + <p> + “At one place a drove of buffalo ran into our train and gave us a bad + scare. I was in the wagon behind ours attending a sick woman when I saw + the drove coming. I knew the children would be frightened to death without + me, so I jumped from the wagon and ran, but I was too late. Finding that I + had no time to get into the wagon, I crawled under it, where a wounded + buffalo cow tried to follow me. I kicked her in the head as I clung to the + coupling pole, and somehow broke my collar bone.” + </p> + <p> + As soon as the grass began to get green in the spring of 1849, after the + news of the discovery of gold reached the States, the overland march + began. In white-covered emigrant wagons, in carts, on horses, mules, even + on foot, came the eager gold seekers. How poorly prepared were many of + them, it would be hard to believe. They were a brave and hardy company of + people, but they suffered much. It is estimated that at least eight or ten + thousand of the young, strong men died before the year was over. Many of + these deaths were due to overwork and exposure, to the lack of the + necessaries of life at the mines, also to the fact that a great many of + the gold seekers were clever, educated people, quite unused to extreme + poverty, and therefore lacking in the strength that comes from + self-denial. + </p> + <p> + Those who remained formed the best material for the making of the state. + To this class belonged those who endowed the two great universities which + are now the glory of California. For many years the highest position in + public life was held by men who came to the Golden State over the plains + or by the uncomfortable ocean route in the days of ‘49. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IX. — The Birth of the Golden Baby + </h2> + <p> + The birth of the Golden Baby, in other words, the coming of the Golden + State into the Union, was a time of struggle and uncertainty, when + feelings were deeply stirred and hope deferred caused bitter + disappointment. When the treaty of peace with Mexico was ratified by + Congress it left the Pacific coast settlements in a strange position—a + territory containing thousands of people, with more coming by hundreds, + but with no legally appointed rulers. + </p> + <p> + As soon as Congress accepted the treaty, the military governor ceased to + have any power, for there was then no longer a state of war; yet he was + still obeyed by courtesy, until some one with a better right took his + place. The only other official was the local alcalde of each community. + This was a Mexican office, but was at that time often filled by an + American who had, perhaps, been in the territory only a few months and + knew nothing of Mexican laws, but ran things as well as he could after the + Eastern fashion. + </p> + <p> + The Rev. Mr. Colton, chaplain of the warship Congress, was made alcalde of + Monterey, and his book on those times is most interesting. + </p> + <p> + “My duties,” said he, “are similar to those of the mayor of an Eastern + city, but with no such aid of courts as he enjoys. I am supreme in every + breach of peace, case of crime, disputed land title, over a space of three + hundred miles. Such an absolute disposal of questions affecting property + and personal liberty never ought to be confided to one man.” + </p> + <p> + The country owed much to Mr. Colton’s work while alcalde. He soon gained + the confidence of law-abiding residents, but was a terror to evil doers. + Those he put to work quarrying stone and building the solid structure + afterward named Colton’s Hall. Here one of the first of California’s + schools was opened, and here was held the first convention. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps the truth that “as a man sows, so shall he reap,” that a wrong + action is apt to bring its own punishment, was never more plainly shown + than in the Mexican war. The war was brought upon the United States in a + great degree by those interested in slavery, not because they had any just + cause of quarrel with the people of Mexico, but because they wanted more + territory where slaves could be held. + </p> + <p> + California, which was the name generally given to all the country + extending from Mexico northward to Oregon and the Louisiana Purchase, and + eastward from the Pacific Ocean to Texas, was what they really fought for, + and when they got it, it became their undoing. When a commissioner went to + Mexico to arrange for peace, he demanded California for the United States. + As is usual, the conquered had to yield to the victor, and Mexico agreed, + “provided the United States would promise not to permit slavery in the + territory thus acquired.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied Mr. Trist, the American commissioner, “the bare mention of + such a thing is an impossibility. No American president would dare present + such a treaty to the Senate.” + </p> + <p> + The Mexican authorities persisted, saying the prospect of the introduction + of slavery into a territory gained from them excited the strongest + feelings of abhorrence in the hearts of the Mexican people, but the + American commissioner made no promise. + </p> + <p> + In the summer of 1848 the President, in a special message, called the + attention of Congress to California and asked that the laws of a territory + be granted to it. The South agreed, provided half should be slave + territory. The Northern people, who disliked slavery, had no commercial + interest in it, and felt it a disgrace to the nation, resisted this + demand. Then began a bitter struggle over California and the question of + slavery on her soil, which lasted for two years and called forth some of + the grandest speeches of those mighty leaders, Webster, Clay, and Calhoun. + </p> + <p> + In 1849, while this fight in Congress was still going on, an amendment to + tax California for revenue, and another which would result in making her a + slave state, were added to the regular appropriation bill which provided + for the expenses of government and without which the government would + stop. Congress was supposed to close its session on Saturday, March 3d, at + midnight. The new President, Taylor, was to take office on Monday. + </p> + <p> + There had been many times of excitement in that Senate chamber, but this + night, it is said by those who were present, was equal to any. Such a war + of words and a battle of great minds! Many eyes were turned to the clock + as it drew near the hour of midnight. Would the stroke of twelve dissolve + the meeting and the great government of the United States be left without + funds? + </p> + <p> + To many of the senators this seemed a certainty, but Mr. Webster insisted + that Congress could not end while they remained in session. So, through + the long night, the struggle went on. About four o’clock the amendment in + regard to slavery was withdrawn, and the bill for the government money was + passed. + </p> + <p> + Meantime the American settlers in California were extremely dissatisfied. + To be living without suitable laws was an unnatural and dangerous state of + affairs which could not be tolerated by men who loved their country and + their homes. The Spanish Californians, also, were anxious to know what + they had to expect from the laws of the United States. At last it was + decided by the people, and agreed to by the military governor, Riley, who + was a man of good judgment, that delegates should be chosen to a + convention which should arrange a state constitution and government. It + was determined, however, to wait for word from Congress, which had closed + in such tumult. + </p> + <p> + News would certainly arrive by the next steamer, the Panama, which was + long overdue. It was a favorite amusement in those days for the boys of + San Francisco to go upon the hill and watch for her coming. The 4th of + June they were rewarded by the sight of her. As she came into harbor a + large part of the population hurried to the wharf, eager to learn the + action of Congress. Was California to be a state or not? + </p> + <p> + The disappointment was great when it was found that nothing had been done + except to pass the revenue laws, which meant taxation without + representation. In the plaza and on the streets the crowds were loud in + their disapproval. The excitement was almost as great as in Boston, so + long before, when the news of the tax on tea arrived. A mass meeting was + called. + </p> + <p> + “It is plain they expect us to settle the slavery question for ourselves,” + said one. “We can do it in short order,” said another. + </p> + <p> + Monday, September 3, 1849, the constitutional convention met at Monterey. + </p> + <p> + “Recognizing the fact that there is need of more than human wisdom, in the + work of founding a state under the unprecedented condition of the + country,” says the minutes of that meeting, “the delegates voted to open + the session with prayer.” It was decided to begin each morning’s work in + this way, the Rev. S. H. Willey and Padre Ramirez officiating alternately. + </p> + <p> + There were present forty-eight delegates, seven of whom were Spanish + Californians. Of these Carrillo of the south and General Vallejo of Sonoma + were prominent. They were able men, who were used to governing and who + understood fairly well the needs of the times. Later, in the United States + Senate, Mr. Webster quoted Mr. Carrillo of “San Angeles,” as he called it. + Another delegate, Dr. Gwin, was a Southern man who had recently come to + California for the purpose of gaining the position of United States + senator and of so planning things that even though the state should be + admitted as free soil, it might later be divided and part be made slave + territory. + </p> + <p> + He depended for this upon the boundaries. If the whole great section was + admitted as California, he thought division would surely follow with the + southern part for slavery. The people, however, showed themselves opposed + to slavery in their new state, and Dr. Gwin soon found that he must either + forego his hopes of becoming senator or give way on this point. The + constitution finally adopted was that of a free state with its boundaries + as they are to-day. The new legislature chose Colonel Fremont and Dr. Gwin + senators, and they left in January, 1850, for Washington, taking the new + constitution to offer it for the approval of Congress. + </p> + <p> + While the people of the Pacific coast had been making their constitution, + Congress was in session, and the subject of California and slavery was + still troubling the nation. The discussion grew so bitter that in January + Clay brought forward his famous Omnibus Bill, so called because it was + intended to accommodate different people and parties, and contained many + measures which he thought would be so satisfactory to the senators that + they would pass the whole bill, although part of it provided for the + admission of California as a free state. + </p> + <p> + At once Southerners sprang forward to resist the measure. They realized + keenly that slavery could not hold its own if the majority of the country + became free soil. They must persist in their demand for more slave + territory, or give up their bondmen. Calhoun, the great advocate of + slavery, who was at that time ill and near his death, prepared a speech, + the last utterance of that brilliant mind, which was delivered March 4th. + He was too ill to read it, but sat, gaunt and haggard, with burning eyes, + while his friend spoke for him. It closed with the declaration that the + admission of California as a slave or a free state was the test which + would prove whether the Union should continue to exist or be broken up by + secession. If she came in free, then the South could do no less than + secede. + </p> + <p> + Three days later, March 7th, Webster delivered one of the great speeches + of his life. In it he said, “The law of nature, physical geography, and + the formation of the earth settles forever that slavery cannot exist in + California.” + </p> + <p> + Seward followed with a speech mighty in its eloquence. He said: + “California, rich and populous, is here asking admission to the Union and + finds us debating the dissolution of the Union itself. It seems to me that + the perpetual unity of the empire hangs on this day and hour. Try not the + temper and fidelity of California, nor will she abide delay. I shall vote + for the admission of California directly, without conditions, without + qualifications, and without compromise.” + </p> + <p> + On September 9, 1850, California was at last admitted. + </p> + <p> + From that time the country advanced steadily onward to the terrible period + of 1861, when the South put her threat into execution. The Civil War + followed, and the abolition of slavery; but from the sorrowful struggle + there arose a better and happier nation, a united North and South. There + are two things to be remembered: that into the new territory gained from + Mexico slavery never entered; and that the wealth which came from the + mines of California did much toward strengthening the North in the + conflict. + </p> + <p> + Over half a year the Californians had been waiting for their constitution + to be adopted, and for their representatives to be received in Congress. + Sometimes it seemed as though the good news would never come. + </p> + <p> + One October morning word came down from the lookout on Telegraph Hill: + “The Oregon is coming in covered with bunting. All her flags are flying.” + Almost at the same moment throughout the city could be heard the quick + booming of her guns as she entered the harbor. With shouts and clapping of + hands the people rushed to the wharf. Tears were pouring down the faces of + men who did not know what it was to cry; women were sobbing and laughing + by turns. The shrill cheers of the California boys rose high above all. + There was the report of guns, the cracking of pistols, the joyful pealing + of bells. New York papers sold readily at five dollars each. No more + business that day. Joy and gayety reigned. At night the city was ablaze + with fireworks and mighty bonfires, which the boys kept going until + morning. + </p> + <p> + Messengers started in every direction to carry the news. The way the word + came to San Jose was exciting. The new governor, Peter Burnett, was in San + Francisco on steamer day. On the very next morning he left for San Jose on + the stage coach of Crandall, one of the famous drivers of the West. The + stage of a rival line left at the same time. There was great excitement: a + race between two six-horse teams, with coaches decorated with flags, and + the governor on the box of one of them. + </p> + <p> + They had to creep through the heavy sands to the mission, but beyond there + they struck the hard road, and away they went, horses at a gallop, + passengers shouting and singing. As they passed through a town or by a + ranch house people ran out, aroused by the hubbub. Off went the hats of + all on the coaches. + </p> + <p> + “California has been admitted to the Union!” some one would shout in his + loudest voice, and, looking back, they would see men shaking hands and + tossing hats on high, and small boys jigging while shouts and cheers + followed them faintly as they disappeared in the distance. + </p> + <p> + Past San Bruno, San Mateo, Mayfield, they went with a rush, then swept + through Santa Clara, then at a gallop down the beautiful Alameda to San + Jose, the governor’s coach but three minutes in advance of its rival. + </p> + <p> + A few days later there was the grand ceremony of admission day, which was + described in the papers not only of this country but of England as well. + </p> + <p> + Still, after the rejoicing came a time of anxiety and sorrow. In its + treatment of the land question in California the United States made one of + the gravest mistakes ever made by a civilized nation. + </p> + <p> + The man whom the government sent out to investigate the subject, W. C. + Jones, was an able Spanish scholar, skilled in Mexican and Spanish law, + and his carefully prepared report declared that the greater part of the + rancheros had perfect title to their lands, and all that was necessary for + the United States to do was to have them resurveyed. + </p> + <p> + In Congress, Senator Benton and Senator Fremont in most points supported + this report as the only just plan. Against the bill that was finally + passed Senator Benton protested vigorously, saying that it amounted to + confiscation of the land instead of the protection promised by the + American government, through Larkin and Sloat. + </p> + <p> + This law made it necessary for every Californian, no matter how long he + had lived on his land, to prove his title to it, and that, too, while the + United States attorney resisted his claim inch by inch, as if he were a + criminal. + </p> + <p> + Thus the Spanish American, who was seldom a man of business after the + standard of the Eastern states, was forced into the distressing necessity + of fighting for what was his own, in courts, the law and language of which + he did not understand. Meantime his property was rendered hard to sell, + while taxation fell heaviest upon him because he was a large land owner. + Often, too, he would have to pay his lawyer in notes, promising to give + money when he could get it, and in the end the lawyer often got most of + the land which the United States government had left to the unhappy + Californian. + </p> + <p> + The way in which unprincipled men got the better of the rancheros would + fill a volume. Guadalupe Vallejo, in the Century Magazine (Vol. 41), tells + how a leading American squatter came to her father and said:— + </p> + <p> + “There is a large piece of your land where the cattle run loose, and your + vaqueros are all gone to the mines. I will fence the field at my own + expense if you will give me half of it.” Vallejo agreed, but when the + American had inclosed it, he entered it on the record books as government + land and kept it all. + </p> + <p> + This article also describes the losses of the ranchmen from cattle + stealing. It tells how Americans, who were afterward prosperous citizens, + were guilty of selling Spanish beef which they knew had been stolen. + </p> + <p> + The life of the Spanish-speaking people at the mines was made miserable. + The American miners seemed to feel that the Californian had no right to be + there. Of course there were some of the lower class, many of whom were + part Indian, who would lie, steal, or, if they had an opportunity, murder; + but often those who were persecuted were not of this type. A woman of + refinement, who under the title of “Shirley” wrote her experiences at the + mines, says:— + </p> + <p> + “The people of the Spanish race on Indian Bar, many of whom are highly + educated gentlemen, are disposed to bear an ill opinion of our whole + nation on account of the rough men here. They think that it is a great + characteristic of Columbia’s children to be prejudiced, selfish, + avaricious, and unjust.” + </p> + <p> + Because in a quarrel a Mexican killed a drunken miner, the men of the Bar + determined to drive away all Californians. They captured several, not the + guilty one, banished some, and two they sentenced to be flogged. Shirley + from her cabin heard what was going on. She tells how one of them, a + gentlemanly young Spaniard, begged in vain to be killed rather than be + disgraced by whipping. When, finally, he was released, he swore eternal + vengeance against the American race. + </p> + <p> + In San Francisco the disorderly state of affairs caused by the host of + criminals gathered there from all over the world, attracted by the + discovery of gold, became unendurable. On the city streets robbery and + murder were of frequent occurrence, no one was safe, and wrongdoers went + unpunished because, frequently, the officers of the law were in league + with them. At last the best citizens felt that for the sake of their homes + and families they must take matters into their own hands, so they formed + an association, seven thousand strong, which was known as the + “Vigilantes.” + </p> + <p> + Those who committed crimes were taken by this organization, and, after + careful trial, punished. Several of the worst offenders were executed, + many were banished from the country, and unjust officials were removed. + When law and order were restored, the Vigilantes disbanded. + </p> + <p> + The example of San Francisco was followed in various parts of the state, + especially in the mining camps, where there were many crimes; but not all + the Vigilantes displayed the same care and fairness as the people of the + larger city, and sometimes terrible mistakes were made, and innocent + people suffered. + </p> + <p> + With thousands of newcomers on the Pacific coast, and the long distance + between them and their homes, it was often of the greatest importance to + get their parcels and mail to them as promptly as possible. For this + reason several express companies were started and did excellent work; but + the mail route called the Pony Express was the most interesting. It is + well described by W. F. Bailey in the Century Magazine (Vol. 56). + </p> + <p> + One day in March, 1860, the following advertisement appeared in a St. + Louis paper:— + </p> + <p> + “To San Francisco in eight days. The first carrier of the Pony Express + will leave the Missouri River on Tuesday, April 3d, and will run regularly + weekly hereafter, carrying letter mail only. Telegraph mail eight days, + letters ten days to San Francisco.” + </p> + <p> + From St. Joseph, Missouri, the first start was made. A large crowd was + present to see the rider off. The same day, the same hour, the Western + mail started on the thousand-mile ride eastward. There would be ten riders + each way, with horses changed every twenty-five miles. + </p> + <p> + Both Sacramento and San Francisco were full of enthusiasm. It was planned + to give the first messenger a rousing reception when he should arrive from + the East. He was received by crowds as he galloped into Sacramento, and + hurried to a swift river steamboat which immediately started for the Bay. + News of his coming was telegraphed ahead, and was announced from the + stages of the San Francisco theaters so that when he arrived at midnight a + large number of people were awaiting him, bands were playing, and bells + were ringing; and a long procession escorted him to the company’s office. + </p> + <p> + In all, there were sixty riders of this express company, all young men, + light in weight, accomplished riders, coolheaded, and absolutely brave. + They were held in high regard by all, and with good reason. Each when he + entered the service signed this pledge:— + </p> + <p> + “I agree not to use profane language, not to get drunk, not to gamble, not + to treat animals cruelly, and not to do anything incompatible with the + conduct of a gentleman.” They also had to swear to be loyal to the Union. + </p> + <p> + The average journey of one man was seventy-five miles, this to be + accomplished in one day, but the men frequently had to double the + distance, and once, when the messenger who was waiting was killed by + Indians, “Buffalo Bill” (Mr. Cody) made the long trip of three hundred and + eighty-four miles, stopping only for meals and to change horses. + </p> + <p> + By day and by night, through rain and storm, heat and cold, they rode, + these brave men, one facing east, the other west, alone, always alone, + often chased by Indians, though, owing to their watchfulness and the + superiority of their horses, they were seldom caught. A number were, + however, killed by immigrants, who mistook them for Indians or robbers. + </p> + <p> + The great feat of the Pony Express was the delivering of Lincoln’s + inaugural address in 1861. + </p> + <p> + With the Southern states claiming to be out of the Union, people were wild + to know what the President would say. To St. Joseph, Missouri, the address + was hurried. Here it was carefully wrapped in oil skin, consigned to the + saddle bags, and amid wild cheers the express was off. Horses were waiting + every ten miles. What a ride was that! “Speed, speed! faster, faster!” was + the cry. Each man tried to do a trifle better than the last, while the + thousands on the Pacific coast seemed to be straining their ears for the + sound of the galloping hoof beats which brought nearer to them the brave + message of the grand new President. And when the last rider came in, + making the final ten miles in thirty-one minutes, what a cheer went up! + </p> + <p> + One thousand nine hundred and fifty miles in one hundred and eighty-five + hours, the message had traveled—at an average of a little more than + ten miles an hour—straight across the continent. + </p> + <p> + When we read of the speed-breaking special trains of to-day, let us not + forget what these brave men of the first overland express accomplished in + the days of ‘61. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X. — The Signal Gun and the Steel Trail + </h2> + <p> + Boom! Boom! Boom! Never in history did the firing of a gun have such a + powerful effect as that which sent the first shot at the flag of the + Union, as it floated over Fort Sumter on that memorable Friday, April 12, + 1861. + </p> + <p> + Fired at a time when most people were hoping for a peaceful outcome of the + sectional troubles, it astonished the world and stirred the whole country + to its depths. + </p> + <p> + Across the dry plains and rugged mountains of the West its echoes seemed + to roll. The startled people of the Pacific coast looked at each other + with anxious, uncertain eyes. No one felt quite sure of his neighbor, and + they were so far from the scene of action that the government could not + help them. They must settle the great question for themselves. Who was for + the Union? Who was against it? + </p> + <p> + In Washington the President and his advisers waited with keen anxiety to + learn what wealthy California would do. Senator Gwin had often spoken in + Congress and elsewhere as though it would certainly be one of the states + to secede. He and others had talked too, in a confident way, of the “Grand + Republic of the Pacific” that might be then formed out of the lands of the + Western coast. To lose this rich territory would be a terrible blow to the + Union. + </p> + <p> + From the time of California’s admission there had been a constant endeavor + on the part of Southern sympathizers to introduce slavery into its + territory. A large number of politicians, especially those holding + prominent positions, were Southerners, some of whom, like Dr. Gwin, had + come to the Pacific coast for the express purpose of winning either the + new state or some portion of it for the South and slavery. + </p> + <p> + They had succeeded in giving it a fugitive slave law that was particularly + evil. Under it a colored man or woman could be seized, brought before a + magistrate, claimed as a slave, and taken back South without being allowed + to testify in his or her own behalf. Neither could a colored person give + testimony in a criminal case against one who was white. + </p> + <p> + Opposed to this strong Southern party one man stood almost alone as the + friend of free labor and free soil. This man was David C. Broderick. For + years he fought the slavery interests inch by inch in San Francisco, in + the state legislature, and finally in the United States Senate. + </p> + <p> + When he went to Washington he found the same state of affairs as in + California—President Buchanan yielding to the Southern demands, + Southern members ruling and often terrifying Congress. Broderick at once + joined Stephen A. Douglas in the struggle he was then making for free soil + in Kansas and the territories, and his speeches were clear and often + fierce. + </p> + <p> + In reply to a speech from a Carolina senator in regard to the disgrace of + belonging to the working class, Mr. Broderick said (Congressional Globe, + 1857-58), “I represent a state where labor is honorable, where the judge + has left his bench, the doctor and lawyer their offices, the clergyman his + pulpit, for the purpose of delving in the earth, where no station is so + high, no position so great, that its occupant is not proud to boast that + he has labored with his own hands. There is no state in the Union, no + place on earth, where labor is so honored, so well rewarded, as in + California.” Mr. Broderick died in the midst of his bright career, + murdered in a duel by one of the leading members of the slavery party. + </p> + <p> + When he died, those of his fellow-citizens who believed much as he did, + yet had let him fight secession and slavery lone-handed, recognized what + he had done for them—their “brave young senator,” as Seward called + him, who had kept the evil of slavery from their soil. His work, stopped + by the bullet of his enemy, was taken up by the people, and his name + became a rallying cry for the lovers of the Union, of honest labor, and of + free soil. + </p> + <p> + News that the war had really begun brought forth the strongest Union + sentiments from many of those who had before been careless or indifferent. + A mass meeting of the people of San Francisco was held—business was + suspended, flags were flying everywhere, while eager-faced people listened + to earnest Union speeches. A few days later the legislature, by an almost + unanimous vote, declared in the strongest terms for the Union, offering to + give any aid the government might require. No one could longer have any + doubt of the loyalty of the state of California. + </p> + <p> + There were certainly many people from the South who were deeply in + sympathy with secession; but these, if honorable men who were able to + fight, hurried east to join the Confederate army, or if they chose to + remain under the protection of the flag, were generally wise enough to + keep their feelings to themselves. + </p> + <p> + Some there were, however, who, while they enjoyed the law and order of the + peaceful state, still spoke, plotted, and schemed for secession. To keep + such as these in order it was found necessary to retain most of the + California troops in the state for home defense. Those who did reach + Eastern battlefields fought well and nobly. + </p> + <p> + One of San Francisco’s ministers was unwise enough frequently to express + disloyal views in the pulpit, until one Sunday morning he found the banner + he would dishonor floating over his church, and hanging to a post in front + of the door a figure intended to represent himself, with his name and the + word “traitor” pinned to it. The next day he left for Europe, where he + stayed until the close of the war. + </p> + <p> + Another minister, Thomas Starr King, was one of the most earnest + supporters of the government. He organized the California division of the + Sanitary Commission for the assistance of sick and wounded soldiers. + Chiefly through his influence California gave over a million and a half to + that cause, which was one third of the whole expenditure of the + Commission. + </p> + <p> + In 1862 Leland Stanford became governor. He was devoted to the Union, + always striving to influence his state to give liberally of its wealth to + help the government; and its record in that line was second to none. “A + good leader, energetic and long-headed,” the governor was called; but no + one dreamed that long before he was an old man, he would give for the + cause of education in California the mightiest gift ever bestowed by any + one man for the benefit of humanity. + </p> + <p> + During the war, California furnished 16,000 men, two regiments of which + were among the best of the Union cavalry. One regiment of infantry was + composed of trappers and mountaineers, from whom were taken many + “sharpshooters” so famous in assisting the advance of the Northern troops. + </p> + <p> + In the southern part of the state there was a body of volunteers known as + the California Column, also the California Lancers, who, far off though + they were, found enough to do. They drove the Southern forces out of + Arizona and New Mexico, fought the Apache Indians in several battles, met + and defeated the Texas Rangers, and took various military posts in Texas. + </p> + <p> + Great was the excitement in San Francisco when one morning the United + States marshall captured, just as she was leaving the wharf, a schooner + fully fitted out as a privateer. She was filled with armed men, and in her + cabin was a commission signed by Jefferson Davis in the name of the + Confederate States, also a plan for capturing the forts of the harbor, the + Panama mail steamer, then en route north, and a treasure steamer soon to, + sail for Panama. + </p> + <p> + In Los Angeles disloyalty was more outspoken and unrebuked by public + opinion. Sometimes the surrounding ranchmen, many of whom were in sympathy + with the South, on the news of a Southern victory would come into Los + Angeles to celebrate with disloyal banners and transparencies. Living on + Main Street there was a Yankee, one of the leading citizens, who upon such + an occasion would take his rifle and, promenading the flat roof of his + wide-spreading adobe, hurl down defiance at the enemy, calling them + “rebels” and “traitors” and defying them to come up and fight him man to + man. But there must have been a feeling of good fellowship through it all, + since no stray bullet was ever sent to put a stop to the taunts of the + fiery old Unionist. + </p> + <p> + Some Spanish soldiers of the California Column, however, grew weary of + such open disloyalty, and one night, when off duty, captured two of the + Southern ranchmen and proposed to hang them to the oaks in the pasture + near where the city of Pasadena now stands. The American officers of the + troops, hearing of the affair, hurried out from Los Angeles and begged + their men to give up so disorderly and unsoldier-like an idea. “Yes, sirs, + it is true, all that you say; but they are rebels, they talk too much; why + suffer them to cumber Union ground?” This seemed the only reply they could + obtain; but finally the captives were liberated, though advised in the + future to guard well their tongues and actions. + </p> + <p> + The desire for war news from the Eastern states led to the completion of a + telegraph line between the Missouri River and San Francisco, and on all + sides the need of an overland railroad was also being recognized. Plans + for such a road had been frequently presented to Congress, but straightway + slavery entered into the question. The South wanted the road, but it must + be through Southern territory, while the North favored the middle or + northern route; and they could not agree. + </p> + <p> + On one such occasion Senator Benton spoke in favor of a line that had just + been surveyed by Captain Fremont. He was told by those who had other plans + that his route was not possible, that only scientific men could lay out a + railroad and determine the most practicable ways and easiest passes. But + Senator Benton’s answer is worth remembering. + </p> + <p> + “There is,” said he, “a class of scientific engineers older than the + schools and more unerring than mathematics. They are the wild animals—the + buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, and bear—which traverse the forest, + not by compass, but by an instinct which leads them always the right way + to the lowest passes in the mountains, the shallowest fords in the rivers, + the richest pastures in the forest, the best salt springs, the shortest + practicable route between two distant points. They are the first engineers + to lay out a road; the Indian follows. Hence the buffalo road becomes the + war path. The white hunter follows the same trail in the pursuit of game; + after that the buffalo road becomes the wagon road of the emigrant, and, + lastly, the railroad of the scientific man.” + </p> + <p> + Through her senators and representatives California spent several years in + pushing this matter. In vain they called attention to the fact that the + distance from Washington to San Francisco by the way of Cape Horn was + 19,000 miles, or more than the entire distance round the earth in the + latitude of San Francisco; and that by Panama it was as far as from + Washington to Peking in a direct line. + </p> + <p> + In 1859-60 there appeared in Washington a young engineer named Judah, who + had been sent by the people of the Pacific coast to urge the immediate + building of the road by the middle route that which was finally chosen. + Mr. Judah knew more about the matter than any other man, east or west, and + he failed in his mission only because the troubles over slavery and the + prospect of immediate secession took up the whole attention of Congress. + </p> + <p> + However, he came back in no way discouraged, and continued to urge the + matter in his cheerful, hopeful way. That he should be hopeful does not + seem strange to us who know that the road was built and that it was a + great success, but then conditions were different. + </p> + <p> + “What, build a railroad over those mountains, with their terrible winter + snows and landslides, across the desert, where there is absolutely no + water? It is impossible, and these men know it; they only want to get the + people’s money.” Such was the type of article one might read at any time + in the papers of the day. + </p> + <p> + Still, Mr. Judah’s talk had its results. One June day in 1861, Leland + Stanford, a young lawyer, who was at that time Sacramento’s chief grocer, + Mark Hopkins and Collis P. Huntington, hardware merchants, and Charles + Crocker, proprietor of the leading dry-goods store, met and organized the + Central Pacific Railroad Company, with Stanford as president, Huntington + as vice-president, Hopkins as treasurer, Judah as engineer, and Crocker as + one of the directors. + </p> + <p> + This action seems sensible enough as we write of it, but it was one of the + most daring undertakings ever attempted by any body of men. None of the + four was rich, all had worked hard for the little they had; but they felt + that the country must have the railroad, that without it California could + never become a great state. But if they could only push forward, as soon + as they had themselves accomplished something, help would come to them + from the East and their success would be assured. + </p> + <p> + Again Mr. Judah went to Washington, and this time he was successful. The + war had made the government feel the need of the railway, not only to bind + the Pacific coast closer to the eastern half of the continent, but to + transport troops to defend its western shores. There were many now ready + to vote for the road, and in July, 1862, the bill, having been passed by + both houses, was signed by Abraham Lincoln. + </p> + <p> + It provided for the building of two roads, one from the Missouri River + westward, the Union Pacific, and one from the Pacific coast eastward, the + Central Pacific, the two to be continued till they met and formed one long + line. + </p> + <p> + On the day that Leland Stanford was inaugurated governor of California, he + had the further satisfaction of beginning the construction of the overland + railroad by digging and casting the first shovelful of earth. This took + place in Sacramento, in the presence of a large gathering of the leading + people of the state; and from that time the work went speedily on. It was + estimated that the road would cost an average of eighty thousand dollars a + mile, though in the mountains the cost was nearer one hundred and fifty + thousand. + </p> + <p> + Not only the right of way, but a large portion of the near-by public + lands, were granted by the government to each road, and at the completion + of each forty miles of track there was to be further aid. The state of + California, the city of San Francisco, and the counties through which the + railroad passed, each gave generously to the Central Pacific; but all this + did not bring in enough ready money. Huntington in the East and Stanford + in the West almost worked miracles in getting funds to begin the work. + </p> + <p> + In the death of Mr. Judah, which occurred at this time, the company + suffered a great loss. Although the enterprise went on to a successful + ending, his name dropped out of sight; but those who know, feel that to + him California owes a great debt of gratitude. Though she was sure to have + the overland sometime, it might have been years later in its + accomplishment, but for the faith, energy, and perseverance of Theodore D. + Judah. + </p> + <p> + Charles Crocker now took charge of the building of the road; to accomplish + the work he imported Chinese, whom he found peaceable, industrious, and + quick to learn. They were arranged in companies moving at the word of + command like drilled troops—“Crocker’s battalions” they were called. + There was need of the greatest haste to get the different portions + completed in the time allowed. + </p> + <p> + “Why,” said Crocker, “I used to go up and down that road in my car like a + mad bull, stopping along where there was anything wrong, raising Cain with + the men that were not up to time.” + </p> + <p> + Neither Mr. Crocker nor Mr. Stanford ever recovered from the strain of + that time. It is said that it eventually caused the death of both men. + </p> + <p> + Meantime the Union Pacific was pushing overland westward as fast as + possible. Each road was aiming for the rich plains of Utah. If the Central + stopped at the eastern base of the mountains, it would make this road of + little value except for Pacific coast traffic; but if it could reach + Ogden, the line would pay well. + </p> + <p> + It was a mighty race all through the winter of 1868 and 1869, Crocker and + his men working like giants. What he accomplished then was scarcely less + wonderful than Napoleon’s passage of the Alps. + </p> + <p> + All the supplies for his thousands of workmen, all the materials and iron + for the road, even the locomotives, he had to have hauled on sledges over + the mountains through the winter snows. + </p> + <p> + Ogden was finally made the place where the two roads joined; but they + first met, and the last work was done, at Promontory, a point fifty miles + northwest of Ogden. There in May, 1869, the last tie was laid. It was made + of California laurel, handsomely polished, and on it was a silver plate + with an inscription and the names of the officers of the two roads. + </p> + <p> + It was an eventful meeting on that grassy plain, under the blue Western + sky, while all around rose the rugged peaks that had at last been + conquered by man’s energy. The telegraph at this spot was, for the + occasion, connected with all the offices along the line and in the leading + cities of the country, where crowds were in waiting to hear that the great + work was finished. + </p> + <p> + Two trains were there with their engines, as Bret Harte describes them, + “facing on the single track, half a world behind each back.” Around stood + the guests and officers of the roads waiting for the final ceremony. “Hats + off,” clicked the telegraph. Prayer was offered, and then the four gold + and silver spikes, presented by California, Nevada, Idaho, and Montana, + were put in place by President Stanford of the Central Pacific and Dr. + Durant of the Union Pacific. + </p> + <p> + As the silver hammers fell on the golden spikes, in all the telegraph + offices along the line and in the Eastern cities the hammer of the magnet + struck the bell—“tap, tap, tap.” “Done,”—flashed the message + to the eager crowds. + </p> + <p> + All over the land the event was celebrated with great rejoicing. In + Buffalo, as the news came, hundreds of voices burst out in the singing of + “The Star-Spangled Banner.” In Boston, services were held at midday in + Trinity Church, where the popular pastor offered “thanks to God for the + completion of the greatest work ever undertaken by men.” + </p> + <p> + To the four men who were the builders of the Central Pacific, the public + and particularly the state of California owes much. They not only built + the road, but made it a grand, complete success in all its departments. + Without it, California would still be a remote province, little known. + With it she is one of the chief states of the Union, and in the great + business world she is known and felt as a power. + </p> + <p> + Later the corporation became very wealthy and powerful. Then it was that + it began to abuse its power, working often against the best interests of + the inhabitants of the Pacific slope. In some cases, as in the eviction of + the people who were settlers in the Mussel Slough District, it was guilty + of extreme cruelty and injustice, such as is almost certain to bring its + own punishment. But in reckoning with the Southern Pacific, for so the + company is now called, the people of California should be careful to look + on both sides of the question, remembering the terrible struggles of those + early days, when the building of the Overland, that greatest achievement + America had ever seen, was to them like the miraculous gift of some fairy + godmother, seemingly beyond the possibility of nature. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XI. — That Which Followed After + </h2> + <p> + About the time that the people of California were beginning to feel the + trouble arising from the unlimited wealth and power of the great railroad + corporation, they discovered what they felt was danger coming from another + quarter. This was in the large number of Chinese pouring into the state. + Already every town of importance had its quaint Chinese quarter, bits of + Asia transplanted to the western hemisphere. Yet these sons of Asia, with + their quiet, gliding motions and oriental dress, had been of great service + in the development of the new land. Many of the most helpful improvements + were rendered possible by their labor, and for years they were almost the + only servants for house or laundry work to be obtained. Never did the + housewives of the Pacific coast join in the outcry against the Chinese. + </p> + <p> + Although all this was true, it was also a fact that an American workingman + could not live and support his family on the wages a Chinaman would take; + and when the white man saw the Chinese given the jobs because they could + work cheaply, he became discouraged and angry. Was he to be denied a + living in his own country because of these strangers? For this reason the + working people became very bitter toward the Chinese. + </p> + <p> + Their complaints were carried to Washington, and because of them the + government finally arranged with China for the restriction of immigration, + but not, however, before the matter caused much trouble in California. + </p> + <p> + During the years 1876-77 times were rightly called “hard” along the + Pacific slope. Often laboring men could not get work, and their families + suffered. The blame for all this was unjustly given to the Chinese, who + were several times badly treated by mobs. The general discontent led at + last to a demand for a new state constitution, which many people thought + would remedy the evils of which they complained. For twenty-five years the + old constitution had done good service. On the day it had been signed, + Walter Colton, alcalde of Monterey, wrote thus of it in his diary: “It is + thoroughly democratic; its basis, political and social equality, is the + creed of the thousands who run the plow, wield the plane, the hammer, the + trowel, the spade.” Still it had its faults, the greatest of which was the + power given the legislature over public moneys and lands, as well as the + chance it allowed for dishonesty in voting. + </p> + <p> + Unfortunately many of the delegates to the convention which was to make + the new constitution were foreigners who knew very little of American + manners, customs, and laws, and few of them were among the deeper thinkers + of the state, men who had had experience in lawmaking. That the new + constitution is not much better than the old, many who helped in the + making of it will agree. It was adopted in May, 1879. Since that time it + has received a number of changes by means of amendments voted for by the + people, and in spite of whatever errors it has contained, the state under + it has gone forward to a high degree of prosperity. + </p> + <p> + In 1875, during the administration of Governor Pacheco, the first native + state governor, an invitation was extended to native-born boys of San + Francisco to take part in the Fourth of July celebration. A fine body of + young men were thus assembled, of whom Hittell in his story of San + Francisco says, “They were unparalleled in physical development and mental + vigor, and unsurpassed in pride and enthusiasm for the land that gave them + birth.” This gathering led to the founding of the “Native Sons of the + Golden West,” an organization which now numbers many thousands and of + which the great state may well be proud. Later there was organized a + sister society of native daughters, and this also has a large membership. + As stated in their constitution, one of the main objects of these sons and + daughters of the West is “to awaken and strengthen patriotism and keep + alive and glowing the sacred love of California.” + </p> + <p> + An event of the utmost importance to the southern part of the state was + the completion of the railroad between San Francisco and Los Angeles, + which occurred in 1879. Its route lay through the rich valley of the San + Joaquin. Work had been carried on from each end of the line, and it was a + very happy assembly which gathered to witness the junction of the two + divisions, the event taking place at the eastern end of the San Fernando + tunnel. This road was afterward extended from Los Angeles eastward by the + way of Yuma and Tucson, and is to-day the Southern Pacific Overland. Later + the Santa Fe Company built its popular road between Los Angeles and the + Eastern states. Both these companies now have lines from Los Angeles to + San Diego, and the Southern Pacific has a coast road the length of the + state, along which the scenery is of great beauty. + </p> + <p> + Indians + </p> + <p> + In the history of the state the most pathetic portion is that which + relates to the Indians. Bancroft says, “The California valley cannot grace + her annals with a single Indian war bordering upon respectability. It can + boast, however, a hundred or two of as brutal butcherings on the part of + our honest miners and brave pioneers as any area of equal extent in our + republic.” Miners and settlers coming into the country would take up the + waters where the natives fished, the land where they hunted, driving them + back to rocky soil, where there was nothing but acorns and roots to + support life. As a result the poor, unhappy creatures, driven by hunger, + would steal the newcomers’ horses and cattle. It is true that the white + men depended, in a great measure, upon their animals for the support of + their families; but they thought only of their own wrongs, and would arm + in strong parties, chase the wretched natives to their homes, and tear + down their miserable villages, killing the innocent and guilty alike. The + government was the most to blame, because it did not in the first place + enact laws for the protection of the Indians in their rights. + </p> + <p> + About the towns, many of the natives gathered for work. In some places the + authorities had the right to arrest them as vagabonds and hire them out as + bondmen to the highest bidder, for a period often of as many as two or + three months at a time, with no regard to family ties. Little seems to + have been done to assist them to a better kind of life. In Los Angeles, + when working in the vineyards as grape pickers, they were paid their wages + each Saturday night, and immediately they were tempted on all sides by + sellers of bad whisky and were really hurried into drunkenness. Their + shrieks and howls would, for a time, make the night hideous, when they + were driven by the officers of the law into corrals, like so many pigs or + cattle, and left there till Monday morning, when they were handed over to + whoever chose to pay the officers for the right to own them for the next + week. + </p> + <p> + Near the Oregon line lived some of the most warlike and troublesome + Indians of California. Here there were one or two severe fights, the worst + of which was with the Modocs, in the northern lava beds. It was here that + General Canby was killed. To-day the Modocs are still suffering keenly. In + the upper part of the state the Indians have no lands of any kind, and + noble men and women of California are working to secure for them their + rights from the government. In the south, whole villages have been found + living on nothing but ground acorn meal, from which miserable diet many + children die and older people cannot long sustain life. + </p> + <p> + The Sequoya League, an association for the betterment of the Indians of + the Southwest, has done much toward opening the eyes of the public and of + the government officials to the unhappy condition of these first owners of + the soil. Congress, in 1906, appropriated $100,000 to be used in buying + land and water for those Indian reservations or settlements where the + suffering was greatest. This was a good beginning, but as the needy + Indians are scattered all over the state, much more is required before + they can be so placed that they can earn a living by their labors. + </p> + <p> + Sheep Industry + </p> + <p> + Gradually the cattle industry, which was for so long a time the leading + business of the country, gave way to sheep raising. During summer and fall + large flocks of grayish white merinos could be seen getting a rich living + on the brown grasses, the yellow stubble of old grain fields, and the + tightly rolled nuts of the bur clover; while in winter and spring, hills + and plains with their velvet-like covering of green alfileria offered the + best and juiciest of food. This was the time of the coming of the lambs. + As soon as they were old enough to be separated from their mothers they + were put during the day in companies by themselves. A band of five or six + hundred young lambs, playing and skipping over the young green grass they + were just learning to eat, was a beautiful sight to everybody save to the + man or boy who had them to herd. They led him such a chase that by the + time he had them safely corralled for the night, every muscle in his body + would be aching with fatigue. + </p> + <p> + Shearing time was the liveliest portion of the herder’s life, which was + generally very lonely. First came the shearing crew with their captain; + next arrived the venders of hot coffee, tamales, tortillas, and other + Mexican dainties; brush booths were erected and a brisk trade began. The + herds were driven up and into a corral where several shearers could work + at a time. Snip, snip, snip, went the shears hour after hour. It was the + boast of a good shearer that he could clip a sheep in seven minutes and + not once bring blood. As fast as cut, the wool was packed in a long sack + suspended from a framework. The dust was dreadful, and the man or boy + whose duty it was, when the bag was partly full, to jump in and tramp the + wool down so that the bag might hold more, would nearly choke before he + emerged into the clear daylight. + </p> + <p> + The passage of the no-fence law by the legislature of 1873, while it was + opposed by the sheep and cattle men, was one of the greatest aids to the + growth of agriculture, especially in the southern part of the state. It + provided that cattle and sheep should not be allowed to run loose without + a herder to keep them from trespassing. This saved the farmer from the + necessity of fencing his grain fields, a most important help in a country + where fence material was so scarce and expensive. + </p> + <p> + Colony Days + </p> + <p> + For some time after California’s admission to the Union most of the events + of importance in its history took place around the Bay of San Francisco + and the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin; but early in the + seventies the south land awoke from its long sleep and took part in + history making, not in such stirring incidents as those of the days of + ‘49, but in a quieter growth that was yet of importance in the making of + the state. People in the East had begun to find out that southern + California had a mild, healthful climate and that, though the sands of her + rivers and rocks of her mountains were not of gold, still her oranges, by + aid of irrigation, could be turned into a golden harvest, and that all her + soil needed was water in order to yield most bountiful crops. + </p> + <p> + As little land could be bought in small ranches, those wishing to settle + in the country chose the colony plan. A number of families would + contribute to a common sum, with which would be purchased a large piece of + land of several thousand acres with its water right. Each man received + from this a number of acres in proportion to the amount of money he had + invested. The first colony formed was that of Anaheim; then followed + Westminster, Riverside, Pasadena, and many others, and by that time people + began to come into southern California in large numbers. + </p> + <p> + The overland journey was much longer, then than now, but quite as + pleasant. At twenty-two miles an hour the country could be seen and + enjoyed, acquaintance made with the plump little prairie dogs of the + Nebraska plains, and their neighbors the ground owls, which bobbed grave + salutes as the train passed by. Bands of galloping deer, groups of grave + Indian warriors sitting on their ponies watching the train from afar, an + occasional buffalo lumbering along, shaking his shaggy head, were the + things that interested the traveler who took the overland trains in ‘74 + and ‘75. + </p> + <p> + At that time between San Francisco and Los Angeles there were two forms of + travel: a hundred miles of railroad, with the rest of the distance by + stage; and the steamship line. Families chose the ship. From San Pedro to + Los Angeles was the only railroad of the southern country. In Los Angeles + the flat-roofed adobe buildings, where people could walk about on the tops + of the houses, were a wonder to the Eastern strangers. Beautiful homes + some of them were, where glimpses could be had of stately senoras in silks + and laces, and beautiful senoritas whose dark eyes made havoc with the + hearts of the colony young men. The young Californian, who seemed a very + part of his fiery steed, was at once the admiration and envy of the Yankee + boy. + </p> + <p> + Queer sights were to be seen at every turn. Creaking carretas, whose + squeaking wheels announced their coming a block away, filled the streets, + some loaded with grapes, others with rounded shaggy grease-wood roots or + sacks of the red Spanish bean and great branches of flaming red peppers. + The oxen, with yoke on the horns, seemed as if out of some Bible picture. + </p> + <p> + Life in the different colonies was much the same. The newcomers had many + things to learn, but they made the best of their mistakes, and days of + hard work, such as many of them had never known, were often ended with + social or literary meetings, where minds were brightened and hearts warmed + by friendly intercourse. + </p> + <p> + When the rains were heavy, the swift mountain streams could not be + crossed, and often provisions gave out; then with neighborly kindness + those who had, loaned to those who had not, until fresh supplies could be + obtained. To this day the smell of new redwood lumber, the scent of + burning grease-wood brush, will bring back those times to the colonists + with a painful longing for the happy days of their new life in the new + land. Many never gained wealth, while some lost lands and savings; but it + was these earnest, intelligent men and women who developed the rich + valleys of the south land and to whom we are indebted for the bloom and + beauty found there to-day. + </p> + <p> + The result of the land laws and the ill-treatment of the Mexican + population at the mines was a period of highway robbery by bands of + outlaws, each under the leadership of some especially daring man. The + story of some of their adventures reminds the hearer of the tales of Robin + Hood. Not so mild as Robin’s were their lives, however. Often their + passage was marked by a trail of blood, where bitter revenge was taken + because of bitter wrongs. Last of these bands was that of Vasquez, who + robbed the colony folk gently with many apologies. He was finally captured + and executed, and with him the bandits passed from the page of state + history. + </p> + <p> + Alaska + </p> + <p> + One night in 1867 there took place in Washington an event that was to be + of great importance to the western part of the United States. This was the + signing of the treaty for the purchase of Alaska. As early as 1860 Mr. + Seward, in a speech delivered at St. Paul, said: + </p> + <p> + “Looking far off into the northwest I see the Russian as he occupies + himself establishing seaports, towns, and fortifications, on the verge of + this continent, and I say, ‘Go on and build up your posts all along the + coast up even to the Arctic Ocean, they will yet become the outposts of my + own country.’” So long ago did the desire for Alaska, or Russian America + as it was then called, possess the mind of the great statesman. But it was + not until seven years later that he found the chance to win the government + to his views. One evening, while the matter was under discussion between + the two countries, the Russian minister called upon Mr. Seward at his + home, to inform him that he had just received the Czar’s sanction for the + sale. + </p> + <p> + “Good, we will sign the treaty to-night,” said the American statesman. + </p> + <p> + “What, so late as this, and your department closed, your clerks + scattered?” remonstrated the Russian. + </p> + <p> + “It can be done,” replied Mr. Seward; and it was. At midnight the treaty + was signed. The price paid for Alaska was less than the cost of two of our + modern battleships. Every year has proved more and more the wisdom of the + purchase. The discovery of gold in particular has immensely increased its + value and has brought to California an enlarged commerce. + </p> + <p> + Spanish-American War + </p> + <p> + In 1898 came the war with Spain. The tidings of the 15th of February, + 1898, filled the hearts of the people of California with indignation and + grief. That the United States battleship Maine had been blown up in Havana + harbor and numbers of our seamen killed, seemed to many sufficient cause + for immediate war. Some, however, feared for the Pacific coast + settlements, with insufficient fortifications and no war vessels of + importance, except the magnificent Western-built battleship, Oregon. This + vessel was at Puget Sound when the news of the blowing up of the Maine + reached her. At the same time came orders to hurry on coal and proceed to + San Francisco. There ten days were spent in taking on as much coal and + provisions as the vessel could carry. Then, with orders to join the + Atlantic fleet as quickly as possible, on the morning of March 19 she + steamed through Golden Gate and turned southward, to begin one of the + longest voyages ever made by a battleship. + </p> + <p> + The people of California were sad at heart to part with their noble + vessel, and when, in April, war was declared, thousands followed the loved + ship and her brave men with their interest and prayers. All alone upon the + great sea she was sailing steadily onward, to meet, perhaps, a fleet of + foes, or worse still, a dart from that terror of the waters, a torpedo + boat; yet always watchful and always ready for whatever foe might appear, + she journeyed on. + </p> + <p> + The order given by Captain Clark to his officers in case they sighted the + Spanish squadron, was to turn and run away. As the Spanish ships followed + they were almost sure to become separated, some sailing faster than + others. The Oregon having a heavy stern battery, could do effective + fighting as she sailed; and if the enemy’s ships came up one at a time, + there might be a chance of damaging one before the next arrived. + </p> + <p> + Through two oceans and three zones, fifteen thousand miles without mishap, + the Oregon sailed in fifty-nine days. When she joined the fleet where it + lay off Cuba, she came sweeping in at fifteen knots an hour, the winner of + the mightiest race ever run, cheered at the finish by every man of the + American squadron. All honor should be given to her wise captain and brave + crew and to the Western workmen who made her so stanch and true. + </p> + <p> + On a fair May day, while California children were rejoicing over their + baskets of sweet May flowers, the first battle of the war was fought, the + first, and for California the most important. When Dewey destroyed the + Spanish fleet on that Sunday morning (May 1, 1898) in Manila Bay, he not + only won an important victory, but a greater result lay in the change of + attitude of the United States toward the rest of the world. + </p> + <p> + It was a change which had begun long before; many events had led up to it, + but possession of the Philippines and other islands of the Pacific forced + our country to recognize the importance of Asia and the ocean which washes + its shores. + </p> + <p> + Commerce has always moved westward, going from Asia to Greece, to Rome, to + western Europe, to the western hemisphere; and the race which takes up the + movement and carries it forward is the one which gains the profits. All + must realize the truth of Mr. Seward’s prophecy when he said, “The Pacific + coast will be the mover in developing a commerce to which that of the + Atlantic Ocean will be only a fraction.” “The opportunity of the Pacific,” + some one has called it. Nearly two thirds of the people of the earth + inhabit the lands washed by the waters of this western sea, and the + country which secures their trade will become the leading nation of the + world—a leadership which should be of the best kind, supplying the + needs of peaceful life, building railroads, encouraging the things that + help a people upward and onward. To the young men of California, Hawaii + and the Philippines offer every chance for daring, energy, and invention. + If to honesty and energy there be added a speaking knowledge of the + Spanish language, there lie before the youth of the Pacific coast the + finest opportunities for active, successful lives. + </p> + <p> + As soon as President McKinley issued his call to arms for the Spanish war, + the men of California responded with a rush. A large number of those who + had enlisted were hurried to San Francisco, where the military authorities + were quite unprepared to furnish supplies. For a day or two there was real + suffering; then the Society of the Red Cross came to the rescue, and + thousands of dollars’ worth of food and blankets were sent to the camp. As + soon as the always generous people of San Francisco comprehended the state + of affairs, there was danger that the hungry young soldiers would be ill + from overfeeding. + </p> + <p> + The twenty-third day of May, 1898, is a day to be remembered in the + history of our country, for on that day went out the first home regiment + from the mainland of the United States, to fight a foe beyond the sea. + When the twelve companies of California Volunteers marched through the + city from the Presidio to the docks of the Pacific Mail and Steamship + Company, two hundred thousand people accompanied them. So hard was it for + our peace-loving people to understand the real meaning of war that it was + not until the brave lads and earnest men were actually marching to the + steamer which was to carry them thousands of miles to meet danger and + death, that many quite realized the sorrowful fact. Men cheered the + regiment as it passed, but the sobs of the women sometimes nearly drowned + the hurrahs. Said one officer, “It was heartrending. If we had let + ourselves go, we would have cried our way to the dock.” But in the war the + record of the California troops was one that gave new honor to their + state. + </p> + <p> + Annexation of Hawaii + </p> + <p> + “The Hawaiian Islands,” said Walt Whitman, in the Overland Monthly, “are + not a group. They are a string of rare and precious pearls in the sapphire + center of the great American seas. Some day we shall gather up the pretty + string of pearls and throw it merrily about the neck of the beautiful + woman who has her handsome head on the outside of the big American Dollar, + and they will be called the beautiful American Islands.” + </p> + <p> + In 1893 the native queen of the islands was deposed by a revolution + conducted in a great measure by Americans living in Hawaii. A provisional + government was formed and an application made for annexation to the United + States. Through two presidential terms the matter was discussed both in + Congress and by the people all over the country. Many were against + extending our possessions beyond the mainland in any direction. Others + thought it unfair to the natives of the islands to take their lands + against their will. It seemed to be pretty well proved, however, that the + native government was not for the advancement and best interests of the + country, and that in a short time these kindly, gentle people would have + to give up their valuable possessions to some stronger power. + </p> + <p> + Captain Mahan, writing of these conditions, said: “These islands are the + key to the Pacific. For a foreign nation to hold them would mean that our + Pacific ports and our Pacific commerce would be at the mercy of that + nation.” + </p> + <p> + In the early part of the Spanish war (July, 1898) the resolution for the + annexation of the Hawaiian Islands was passed by Congress and approved by + President McKinley, and the string of pearls was cast about Columbia’s + fair neck. + </p> + <p> + Pius Fund + </p> + <p> + It seems strange that the first case to be tried in the peace court of the + nations at the Hague should have been in regard to the Pius Fund of the + Californias collected by the Jesuit padres two hundred and thirty years + before, to build missions for the Indians of California. The way in which + this money was obtained is described in Chapter IV of this history. It + grew to be a large sum, of which the Mexican government took control, + paying the interest to the Roman Catholic Church in Upper and Lower + California. After the Mexican war, Mexico refused to pay its share to the + Church of Upper California. The United States took up the matter, claiming + that according to the treaty which closed the war, the Catholic Church of + the state of California had a right to its Mexican property. + </p> + <p> + In 1868 it was agreed by the two countries to leave the matter to the + decision of Sir Edward Thornton, English ambassador at Washington. He + decided that Mexico should pay an amount equal to one half the interest + since the war. Mexico did this, but had paid nothing during all the years + which had passed since that time. To settle the dispute finally, it was + decided to leave it to arbitration by the Hague court. The verdict given + was that Mexico should pay the Roman Catholic Church of California + $1,400,000 for the past, and one half the interest on the fund each year + from February, 1903, forever. + </p> + <p> + Panama Canal + </p> + <p> + The natural result of the nation’s need in the Civil War was the overland + railroad. The danger to the Oregon on its long journey, the difficulties + in getting reinforcements to Admiral Dewey, and the possession of new + lands in the Pacific led to decided action in regard to the building of a + ship canal through the Isthmus of Panama. + </p> + <p> + For years the plan had been talked over. In General Grant’s first term as + President he saw so plainly our need of this water way, that he arranged a + canal treaty with Colombia, and it seemed as though the work would soon + begin, but the Colombian government refused to allow the matter to go on, + hoping to make better terms with the United States. This was not possible + then, so the plan was not carried out. Later, a French company undertook + to build a canal across Panama, but after several years of work failed. + </p> + <p> + Many of the Americans favored the route through Nicaragua, but after the + government had spent much money and time in considering carefully both + propositions, the preference was given to the Panama route. In 1902 an act + for the building of the canal was passed by Congress and approved by + President Roosevelt. It provided, however, that should the President be + unable to obtain a satisfactory title to the French company’s work and the + necessary territory from the republic of Colombia on reasonable terms and + in a reasonable time, he should seek to secure the Nicaragua route. The + matter was almost settled, when again Colombia’s greed got the better of + her judgment and she refused to ratify the compact. + </p> + <p> + When the people of the province of Panama saw that they were likely to + lose their canal through the action of their government, they promptly + revolted and declared themselves independent of Colombia. The United + States recognized their independence, and a satisfactory treaty was at + once concluded with them. In March, 1904, the commission appointed by the + President for building the canal sailed for the Isthmus. + </p> + <p> + Nearly one fourth of the work had already been done by the old company, + but there was yet a great deal to do. Besides the actual building of the + canal, its dams and locks, the fever district had to be made healthful + enough for workmen to live there, marshes had to be drained, pure water + brought in from the mountains, and the fever-spreading mosquitoes killed. + In addition to all this, the natives of the land and the many bands of + workmen of different races had to be brought into an orderly, law-abiding + condition. In less than a year it was found necessary to alter the + commission, the President choosing this time men particularly noted for + their energy and power to make things go. The work progressed with great + rapidity, until, in August, 1914, the canal was opened to navigation. + </p> + <p> + The Orient + </p> + <p> + In the latter part of the nineteenth century the eastern portion of Asia + began to stir itself, rising up from the sleepy, shut-in life it had led + for hundreds of years. The eyes of the world watched in wonder the + progress of the war between China and Japan (1894-95). In it was fought + the first battle in which modern war vessels were engaged. It was found + that the Japanese, of whom so little was then known, could fight, and + fight well. + </p> + <p> + As a result of the war, China ceded to Japan the territory of Manchuria + and the right to protect Korea. Russia and Germany objected, however, and + France agreed with them, so Japan had to give way. Soon Russia began + taking possession of the disputed territories, but she had constant + trouble with Japan, and early in 1904 war broke out. Before the close of + the year the civilized world stood astonished not only at the wisdom, + patriotism, and fighting qualities of the Japanese, but also at their + humanity, which would not have discredited a Christian nation. + </p> + <p> + There took place a series of great battles, both on land and on the sea, + in which the Japanese were generally victorious. The terrible loss of life + and destruction of property led the President of the United States, in the + spring of 1905, to urge upon the two countries that fighting cease and + peace be arranged. + </p> + <p> + Few statesmen believed that Mr. Roosevelt would be successful in his + humane endeavor, but he pushed his suggestion with patient perseverance + until, in September, 1905, Americans had the satisfaction of witnessing + upon their soil, at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, the signing of the treaty + of peace between Russia and Japan. + </p> + <p> + Japan’s methods of conducting the war had advanced her to a standing among + nations which she had never before occupied, and all realized the wisdom + of securing commercial relations with her people, who were so rapidly + adopting the habits and customs of the rest of the civilized world. In + this competition for her commerce, California, by her position on the + western shore of the United States, has unusual advantages, a fact which + was soon proved by the amount of money invested in increasing her + facilities for production and manufacturing. Unfortunately little has yet + been done in the matter of shipbuilding, and few vessels which enter her + harbors have been built in the state. + </p> + <p> + Some Recent Events + </p> + <p> + “I’ll put a girdle around the earth in forty minutes,” prophesied Puck in + “Midsummer Night’s Dream.” The boastful fairy did not succeed in + accomplishing this wonder until midnight on the Fourth of July, 1903. On + that day the Pacific cable from the United States to Hawaii, to Midway + Island, to Guam, and to Manila, began operations. The men worked hard that + last day of the cable laying, and by 11 P.M. the President of the United + States sent a message to Governor Taft at Manila. Soon after was the old + prophecy fulfilled, when President Roosevelt, no doubt with Puck at his + elbow, sent a message round the world in twenty minutes, thus bettering + Puck’s idea by half. + </p> + <p> + The saddest year in California’s records is that of 1906. On the morning + of April 18, a great and overwhelming calamity overtook the beautiful + region around San Francisco Bay. A movement of the earth’s crust which + began in the bottom of the ocean far out from land, reached the coast in + the vicinity of Tomales Bay in Marin County. Wrecking everything that came + in its direct path, it shivered its way in a southeasterly direction to a + point somewhere in the northern part of Monterey County. The land on the + two sides of the fault moved a short distance in opposite directions. Thus + in some straight fences and roads crossing the fault, one section was + found to be shifted as much as sixteen feet to one side of the other. The + severe vibrations set up by this break and shifting extended a long + distance in all directions. + </p> + <p> + Although the earthquake was by no means so severe in San Francisco as in + the region of Tomales Bay or even in the vicinity of Stanford, Santa Rosa, + San Jose, or Agnews, it caused greater loss of life and property on + account of the crowded population. Many buildings were wrecked, especially + those poorly constructed on land reclaimed from swampy soil or built up by + filling in. + </p> + <p> + People who had prophesied that, should an earthquake come, the high + buildings such as those of the Call and the Chronicle would surely + collapse, were astonished to see those giant structures apparently + unharmed while buildings of much less height, but without the steel + framework, were completely wrecked. + </p> + <p> + The earthquake was a sad calamity, but had this been the sum of the + disaster the city would only have paused in its progress long enough to + clear away the wreck and to sorrow with the mourners. It was the fires + which sprang up while the water system was too damaged to be of use that + wiped out old historical San Francisco, leaving in its place a waste of + gray ashes and desolate ruins. Santa Rosa, San Jose, Stanford, Agnews, all + suffered severely from the earthquake; but in few cases did fires arise to + add to their loss. The State Insane Asylum at Agnews, which was built on + swampy ground, was a complete wreck with large loss of life. + </p> + <p> + The marvelous bravery and cheerfulness with which the people of San + Francisco bore their cruel fate gave a lesson in courage and unselfishness + to humanity. The magnificent generosity with which not only the people of + southern and northern California, but of the whole country, sprang to the + relief of the unhappy city gave a silver lining to the black cloud of + disaster. + </p> + <p> + Before the embers of their ruined homes had ceased to smoke the people + began the work of rebuilding, and at the time of the visit of the Atlantic + fleet of the United States navy in 1908, business had so revived as to be + almost normal, and the welcome accorded the silent vessels in white by the + gallant City of St. Francis was as hearty and generous as any that greeted + them during their progress. + </p> + <p> + October, 1909, was marked by two events of importance to San Francisco. + One was the visit of President Taft, to whom the great state of California + had given all its electoral votes. The second was the celebration, at the + same time, of the discovery of the bay, which occurred in the fall of + 1769, the founding of the presidio and mission, which took place in the + fall of 1776, and the rebuilding of the burned district. On this occasion + the people of San Francisco and their guests gave themselves up to a time + of merrymaking—a three days’ historical carnival called, in honor of + the commander of the expedition during which the great bay was discovered, + the “Portola Festival.” + </p> + <p> + In 1915 the Panama-Pacific International Exposition was held in San + Francisco. It contained many novel and beautiful features, and was + attended by vast multitudes of people. Another notable exposition was held + at San Diego, beginning in 1915 and continuing in 1916. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII. — “The Groves Were God’s First Temples” + </h2> + <p> + If the people of this century continue the destruction of trees as they + are doing at present, a hundred years from now this will be a world + without forests, a woodless, treeless waste. What a desolate picture is + this! What a grave charge will the people of the future have to bring + against us that we recklessly destroy the trees, one of God’s most + beautiful and useful gifts to man, without even an endeavor to replace the + loss by replanting! + </p> + <p> + During the last hundred years the American lumber belt has moved westward + over a wide space. In the early days of our history nearly the entire + supply came from Maine, and what interesting stories we have of those + brave pioneer loggers and settlers! Gradually the noble woods which + furnished the tall, smooth masts for which American ships were famous, + were destroyed; and the ringing ax blows were then heard in the forests + about the Great Lakes and in the middle Southern states. This supply is by + no means exhausted, but to-day the heart of the lumber interest is on the + Pacific coast. + </p> + <p> + Around the great central valley which is drained by the Sacramento and the + San Joaquin rivers, six hundred and forty miles long, lie mountain ranges + on whose slopes are some of the noblest forests of the world. To the north + of the central valley the trees of the east and west join, forming a + heavily wooded belt quite across the state. + </p> + <p> + In the trade, the greatest demand is for lumber of the pine and fir trees, + and of these California has as many species as Europe and Asia combined. + She has, indeed, only a little less than one fifth of all the lumber + supply of the United States. Her most valuable tree for commerce is the + sugar pine. It attains a diameter of twelve feet or more and is often two + hundred feet high. But the most interesting trees of California and of the + world are the Sequoias, the oldest of all living things. Very far back, in + the time of which we have no written history, in the moist days of + gigantic vegetation and animals, the Sequoias covered a large portion of + the earth’s surface; then came the great ice overflow, and when that + melted away, almost the only things living of the days of giants were the + Sequoias of middle and upper California, and those on some two thousand + acres over the Oregon line. + </p> + <p> + The Sequoia sempervirens, which is commonly called redwood, is distributed + along the Coast Range, the trees thriving only when they are constantly + swept by the sea fogs. For lumber this tree is nearly as valuable as the + sugar pine. From Eureka to San Diego, this is the material of which most + of the houses are built. Because of its rich color and the high polish it + takes, especially the curly and grained portions, its value for cabinet + work is being more and more appreciated. On account of the presence of + acid and the absence of pitch and rosin in its composition, it resists + fire and is therefore a safe wood for building. When the Baldwin Hotel in + San Francisco, a six-story building of brick and wood, burned down, two + redwood water tanks on the top of the only brick wall that was left + standing, were found to be hardly charred and quite water-tight. + </p> + <p> + It is the redwood which furnishes the largest boards for the lumber trade. + Not long ago a man in the lumber region built his office of six boards + taken from one of the trees. The boards were twelve by fourteen feet, and + there was one for each wall, one for the floor, and one for the ceiling. + Windows and doors were cut out where desired. + </p> + <p> + In the heart of the redwood and pine forests there are some thirty mill + plants, and they own about half of the timber district. The methods of + lumbering are exceedingly wasteful. Scarcely half of the standing timber + of a tract is taken by the loggers and what is left is often burned or + totally neglected. Replanting is unthought of and the young trees are + treated as a nuisance. + </p> + <p> + Three fourths of the forests of California grow upon side hills, generally + with an incline of from fifteen to thirty degrees. When the trees are + gone, therefore, the rain soon washes away the soil, leaving the rocks + bare. When the next rainy season comes, the water, not being able to sink + into the earth, and so gradually find its way to the streams, rushes down + the hillsides in torrents, flooding the smaller water courses. Then the + rivers rise and overflow, causing great damage to property; but their + waters quickly subside, and when the dry season comes they have not + sufficient depth for the passage of ships of commerce. The total + destruction of the forests would soon destroy the navigability of the + principal water highways of the state, while another serious result would + be the lessening of the water supply for irrigation. + </p> + <p> + The second variety of the Sequoia, the gigantea, or “big tree,” as it is + called, grows much farther inland than the redwood, being found on the + western slopes of the Sierras. There are ten separate groves of these + trees, from the little company of six in southern Placer County to the + southernmost Sequoia, two hundred and sixty miles away on the Tule River. + The whole put together would not make more than a few hundred thousand of + extra-sized trees, and of the giants themselves not more than five + hundred. These rise as high as three hundred and fifty feet, and are from + twenty to thirty feet through. Near the Yosemite the stage road passes + through the hollow center of one of those monsters. In a grove owned by + the government some cavalry men, with their horses, lined up on a “big + tree” log, and it easily held fourteen, each horse’s nose touching the + next one’s tail. + </p> + <p> + How old these trees may be is yet unsettled, but Mr. John Muir, their + intimate friend and companion, tells of one which was felled which showed + by its rings that it was 2200 years old. Another which had blown down was + fully 4000 years old. Later investigation makes it seem not unlikely that + some have existed for even 5000 years. It seems a sin to destroy a living + thing of that age. + </p> + <p> + The great basin of the Santa Cruz Mountains, which contains a large + collection of the Sequoia sempervirens, belongs to the United States + government. So, too, do the Mariposa grove of Sequoia gigantea, and the + General Grant park, and Tuolumne grove, each of which contains a small + number of fine specimens of the big trees. These properties will be + protected, but all other groves, in which are the giant Sequoias, are in + great danger. There has recently been a movement by the government toward + purchasing the Calaveras grove, which has the finest collection of the big + trees known, but nothing decided has been done. Meantime there are a + number of mills engaged in devouring this noble forest. + </p> + <p> + Unless the people of California take up the matter with earnestness and + energy, the state and the United States will stand disgraced before + mankind for letting these wonders of the world, these largest and oldest + of all living things, be destroyed for the lumber they will make. They + should be purchased by the government and protected, then some movement + should be started in all lumber districts by which waste in logging may be + done away with, young trees protected and cleared, and forest land + replanted with suitable trees. The law excluding cattle and sheep from the + forests is already proving its wisdom by the new growth of young trees. + Only among the giant Sequoias of the Tule and King’s River district are + there to be found baby trees of that species. + </p> + <p> + The lumber trade is one of the most interesting and necessary industries + of the state. Work in the camp is healthful and well paid. Many a delicate + boy or young man in the city would grow strong and healthy and live a much + longer time if he would cast his lot with the hardy choppers and cutters + of the great forest of the Pacific slope. A logging crew consists of + thirty men, including two cooks. The discipline is as rigid as that of a + military system; each man knows his own particular duties, and must attend + to them promptly and faithfully. Trees are not chopped down, as used to be + the custom; with the exception of a little chopping on either edge, a saw + run by two men does the work. Oxen are seldom used, as in early days on + the Atlantic coast, to haul out the logs, for they have given way to + “donkeys,”—not the long-eared, loud-voiced little animals, but the + powerful, compact donkey-engines. + </p> + <p> + Lumber schooners and steamers are the chief features of our coast traffic. + Almost all the large cities of the Pacific coast owe their foundation and + prosperity to this trade. San Francisco and Eureka in Humboldt County are + the principal ports of the trade. Mendocino has a rock-bound coast, with + no harbors, but she has fine forests. Here the lumber steamer secures its + cargo by means of suspended wire chutes as trolleys. The outer end of the + trolley wire is anchored in the ocean, the wire crosses the deck of the + moored steamer, the slack being taken up to the ship’s gaff, thus making a + tight wire up and down which the trolley car with its load is sent. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes a great raft made of lumber is taken in tow by a steamer loaded + with the same material and they start on a voyage down the coast, but this + is a dangerous venture. If the sea becomes rough the raft may break loose + from the steamer and go plunging over the waves, no one knows where. The + brave captains of our coasting vessels fear nothing so much as a timber + raft adrift which may crash into a vessel at any moment and against which + there is no way of guarding. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII. — To All that Sow the Time of Harvest Should be Given + </h2> + <p> + In all but savage countries, wheat is the most important product of the + soil, A large proportion of human beings living on the earth to-day are so + poverty-stricken as to make the question of food a matter of anxiety for + every day. The prayer for bread unites more voices than any other. + </p> + <p> + The padres who settled California understood this well. A number of + bushels of wheat, snugly incased in leather sacks, formed a precious part + of the cargo of the San Carlos, that stout Spanish vessel which in 1769 + brought the first settlers to California. This seed-wheat was divided + among the early missions and as soon as possible was planted—not + with success at first. For a time the padres made little progress in crop + raising. They had to learn by their failures. In San Diego the first wheat + planted was sown in the river bottom and the seed was carried entirely + away by the rising of the stream in the winter; and the next year, which + proved to be a dry one, it was planted so far from the water that it was + almost all destroyed by drought. At San Gabriel the first crop was drowned + out, but the second, planted on the plain where it could be irrigated, was + a success. San Gabriel was chief among the missions for wheat raising, and + was called the “mother of agriculture.” + </p> + <p> + Grain planting and harvesting, in the days of the padres, differed widely + from the methods which prevail to-day. Then the ground was plowed once or + twice, but in what manner? A yoke of oxen, guided by an Indian, dragged a + plow with an iron point made by an Indian blacksmith. If iron could not be + obtained, the point was of oak. Seed, which had been first soaked in lye, + was sown by hand, broadcast, and harrowed in with branches of trees. The + grain was cut by the Indians with knives and sickles. It was afterward + placed on the hardened floor of a circular corral made for the purpose, + and into it was turned a band of horses which were urged to a run by the + shouts and whips of the Indian vaqueros. After running one way they were + frightened into turning and going the other. In this manner the grain was + trampled out of the husks. It was freed from the chaff by being thrown + high in the air by the shovelful, when the wind was blowing hard enough to + carry away the light straw. + </p> + <p> + Next, the grain was washed and dried, then ground, generally between two + stones bolted together. A pole for a handle was also fastened by the bolt, + and the stone was turned, sometimes by mules, sometimes by Indians. La + Perouse, the French scientist who visited the coast in 1786 and gave to + the padres of San Carlos a handmill for grinding grain, said that it would + enable four Indian women to do the work of a hundred by the old way. + Before many years the padres at San Gabriel built a water mill of stone + and adobe which ground grain in large quantities, but not with entire + success, until Chapman, the first American in that region, gave them his + assistance to perfect the machinery. This interesting building has been + restored by Mr. H. E. Huntington and is an object of interest to those who + visit San Gabriel. + </p> + <p> + In 1815 the missions raised enough wheat to supply the whole population, + and there was even an attempt to ship grain to Mexico. This was a failure, + but a little grain was sold to the Russians at Fort Ross. At the time of + the change in the mission settlements, when the padres were sent away, all + agriculture declined. During the Mexican War and when the crowd of gold + seekers came, there was very little grain or flour to be had. Some of the + gold hunters, who had been farmers in the East, failing to find a fortune + in the river sands, and seeing the lack of food stuffs, went back to their + old occupation. They put in crops of wheat and barley along the waters of + the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and were amazed at the fertility of the + soil and the success of their venture. + </p> + <p> + From this time the cultivation of wheat increased rapidly. In 1899 was + harvested the largest crop recorded. After that there was a decline in + wheat raising, because many farmers planted much of their grain lands to + fruit for canning and drying. To California inventors is due the credit of + substituting steam for hand labor in planting and harvesting grain. + </p> + <p> + Let us look at the busy scene on a grain field in the California of + to-day. It is fall or early winter, and the time for planting has arrived. + Into the field, which is several thousands of acres in extent, comes a + great engine, one that does not need a track to run upon. Over the ground + it rolls. With strength equal to fifty horses it draws behind it sixteen + ten-inch plows, four six-foot harrows, and a press drill to match. It + takes only a few men to manage it, and in a short time it has plowed, + harrowed, and sown the broad acres; nothing is left to do until the + harvest time arrives. + </p> + <p> + When the grain is ripe, there comes another great machine. This is the + harvester, whose knives or cutters may be as much as twenty-six feet wide. + This one machine cuts off the heads of wheat, thrashes them, cleans the + grain, and sacks it, clearing seventy-five acres in a day, leaving on the + fields the piles of sacked wheat ready for market. It is most interesting + to watch one of these giants of steel and iron traveling over the uneven + ground, crossing ditches, crawling along side hills, without any trouble + or change of pace, gathering in the ripe grain, turning it out snugly + tucked away in the brown gunny-sacks waiting for its long journey by ship + or car. How the padres would wonder if they could see it working! + </p> + <p> + The grain of the California wheat is white and soft, and contains much + gluten. No matter what hard red or yellow varieties are brought from other + countries and planted here, in a year or two they change to the California + type. It is not certainly known what causes this peculiarity. The grain + most in favor through the state is called “club wheat” from the form of + the head, which is blockshaped, instead of long and slender. The “club + wheat” holds fast its grain so that it can be harvested without falling to + the ground, which, in so dry a climate, is a great point in its favor. + </p> + <p> + Wheat is raised all over the state, both on high and on low land. Some of + the largest grain ranches are along the tule lands around Stockton. These + were marshes once, but have been drained, and now are choice grain fields. + Wheat was first sent out of the state to England as ballast for returning + ships, but the trade gradually increased until there are now over one + hundred of the finest sailing vessels engaged in it. Unfortunately, few of + these vessels are American, perhaps but one fourth. It is a pity that our + countrymen should not benefit more by this trade. During the grain season + at most of the Pacific ports the flag of nearly every nation on earth is + represented. All styles of shipping, from the largest modern steamer to + the smallest ocean sailing vessel, are then to be found in the harbors of + the coast. + </p> + <p> + Grain is carried to the docks in barges, schooners, or on cars, and is + seldom shipped except in sacks. Wheat, unless it needs to be cleaned or + graded, is kept in the sack in which it leaves the home field. To watch + the grain being loaded in the ship is a sight well worth seeing. If the + wharf, or car, or warehouse where it lies is higher than the deck of the + vessel on which it is to be shipped, the sacks are placed on an inclined + chute down which they descend to the hold of the ship. If the deck of the + vessel is the higher, sometimes an endless belt, run by electricity, is + placed in a chute, the sacks are laid on the belt, and so carried to their + resting place. + </p> + <p> + In loading wheat for export, a number of sacks in each row are bled; that + is, a slit is made in the sack which allows a small quantity of grain to + escape and fill the spaces round the corners and sides of the sack, thus + making a compact cargo which is not liable to shift. At Port Costa is + located a grader, where, when necessary wheat can be cleaned and graded; + here also are many large warehouses. + </p> + <p> + For a long time about two thirds of the wheat crop of the state was sent + to Ireland, but now our new lands in the Pacific take much of it. + California has an immense trade in wheat that has been ground into flour. + Over six million dollars’ worth of flour is shipped each year, nearly + three fourths of it going to China, Japan, and the islands of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + It is believed by scientific agriculturists that better results will be + obtained in wheat raising as smaller ranches become the rule, where the + farmer can give more attention to the needs of the grain, adding what is + necessary to the soil. Often the alternation of crops increases the yield—wheat + doing much better if planted where beans or other legumes were raised the + year before. Where the grain fields are not so large, irrigation can be + depended upon instead of the rainfall, and crops then are sure and more + even in quantity. + </p> + <p> + Barley is the grain next in importance to wheat in California. It can be + raised where wheat can not, as it needs less moisture for its development; + and if the rains fail, it can be cut for hay which always brings a good + price. Barley hay, with the heads on, is in California the chief food of + horses, and in many cases of cattle. A horse for ordinary work fed on + barley hay gets all the grain necessary. If on account of heavier work, + stronger food is required, rolled barley is given in addition. A large + quantity of the better graded barley grain raised in the state is used by + the brewers for malt. + </p> + <p> + Corn does not do so well through the state in general, but in some + locations it is justly claimed that a man can ride on horseback down the + rows of corn without being seen over the tops. This, too, the padres + brought into the state. The tortilla, the common food of the Spanish + settlers, was made of coarse-ground or pounded corn. + </p> + <p> + Alfalfa, the wonderful forage plant of dry regions of the West, is a + member of the clover family. Throughout the southern and middle portion of + California are large ranches devoted to its culture for hay. It is also + raised extensively for green feed for horses and cattle. It produces from + three to six crops a year according to location and care given it, and is + treated for the market much the same as barley hay, except that it is + generally made into smaller bales. Alfalfa is raised by irrigation, the + best method being from flumes opening into indentations, not so deep as + furrows, from which the water spreads, flooding the whole surface. + </p> + <p> + Many a California young man from high school gets his first taste of work + away from home in the harvest fields. Generally this is a good experience + for him. He receives some pretty hard knocks, and sees the rough side of + life, but if he has self-control and good principles, he will be the + better for the venture, returning more manly, earnest, and self-reliant. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV. — The Golden Apples of the Hesperides + </h2> + <p> + The orange, like many other of California’s most valuable products, was + brought into the country by the patient, far-seeing padres. Orange, lemon, + and citron, those three gay cousins of royal blood, traveled together, and + soon were to be found in many of the mission gardens. The most extensive + of that early planting was an orchard at San Gabriel, set out by Padre + Sanchez in 1804. In the height of its prosperity, this mission is recorded + as having two thousand three hundred and thirty-three fruit trees, a large + proportion of which were orange trees. San Fernando had sixteen hundred + trees. San Diego had its orange orchard: how many trees is not recorded, + but its olive grove numbered five hundred and seventeen flourishing trees. + Santa Inez had nearly a thousand trees. As early as 1800 Santa Barbara and + San Buenaventura also had valuable orchards. + </p> + <p> + Outside the missions the first orange trees in any number were planted in + 1834, the famous Wolfskill grove in 1841. By 1862 there were about + twenty-five thousand trees of this variety in the state, and two thirds of + these belonged to Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. A little later several large + orchards were planted in the region around the Mission San Gabriel. In + Riverside, often called the mother of orange culture in the state, the + first seeds were planted in 1870, the first trees from these seeds in + 1873, and from that period is dated the beginning of extensive planting. + This was largely the work of colonists. About the time the orchards came + into bearing, the Southern Pacific and the Santa Fe Overland were + completed, so that an Eastern market was gained for the fruit, with the + result that the new industry fairly bounded forward. So much was sometimes + made from an acre of trees that it seemed as though people could not get + land and plant fast enough. Occasionally an income was reported of three + thousand dollars from an acre, and eight hundred to one thousand dollars + per acre was not an uncommon crop. + </p> + <p> + Although at this time there were a few orange trees in the middle and + northern parts of the state, for many years it was supposed that only the + southern country could raise this fruit suitable for the market, but + to-day people know better. Excellent oranges are grown as far north as + Shasta, and Butte County, which leads in the northern orange culture, has + a number of large and valuable orchards. From Tulare County and other + parts of the valley of the San Joaquin, choice fruit is being shipped to + the markets of the East. From San Diego all the way up the state one may + find trees of the citrus family flourishing; still, whether north or + south, in planting an orange orchard, the greatest care has to be taken in + the choice of location. Jack Frost is the enemy to be avoided, and + generally in any strip of country the lower lands are the ones he visits + first. So the highlands are preferred, and even here the currents of air + must be studied. A strong, uninterrupted, downward sweep of air from the + snowcovered mountains will often, at night, drive away the needed warmth + gathered during the day, so that land protected by some mountain spur + which makes an eddy in the current is the best for this heat-loving fruit. + </p> + <p> + There are several popular varieties of the orange. The Valencia late is + being planted by many in preference to others because, besides being a + fine fruit, it keeps well, ripening when the days begin to be long and + hot, and is therefore doubly welcome. The sweet orange from the + Mediterranean country, and the St. Michael, with its paper rind, are also + favorites, as are the delicious little Mandarin and Tangerine varieties, + with their thin skin and high flavor; but the king of them all is the + Washington navel, which has gained for the state its high position as an + orange-raising territory. This is not a new variety, though many may + believe it so. A book published in Rome over three hundred years ago gives + an interesting description and pictures of this and other kinds of oranges + and the way they should be raised. The title of this rare old volume is + “Hesperides, or about the Golden Apples, their Culture and Use.” Among its + many fine illustrations is one of Hercules receiving the golden apples. + Another shows the bringing of the fruit to Italy by a body of nymphs and + goddesses in Neptune’s car. Mr. Charles F. Lummis has translated portions + of the book in the California magazine Out West. + </p> + <p> + On its travels the navel orange finally reached Bahia, Brazil, and there, + sometime during the Civil War in the United States, a lady who, it is + said, was the wife of the American consul, discovered the deliciousness of + this fruit. So pleased was she that she determined to share her enjoyment + with others; so upon her return to her own country, she described this + orange to Mr. Saunders, head of the government’s experimental farm at + Washington. He became interested in the subject, sent to Bahia, and had + twelve navel trees propagated by budding. These were shipped to + Washington, where they arrived safely, and were placed in the orangery + there. They all grew, and from them a large number of trees were budded. + </p> + <p> + Still they had not reached California. Bringing them to the Pacific coast + was also the work of a woman. Mrs. Tibbetts, wife of a fruit grower of + Riverside, was visiting in Washington and to her Mr. Saunders presented + two navel orange trees, which she brought home with her. They were planted + beside her doorstep in Riverside. The trees grew rapidly, and when they + bore fruit it did not take the California orange growers long to discover + that here they had a treasure of more value than the largest nugget of + gold ever found in the state. + </p> + <p> + It was at a citrus fair in Riverside in 1879 that this golden king first + appeared before the world. Then from all over southern California came + orange men to get buds from these trees. Back home they went with the + precious bits of life. Acres of seedling oranges were quickly shorn of + their green crowns. Cut, cut, went knife and shears till only the stock + was left, and then into a carefully made slit in the bark was placed the + navel bud. It soon sprouted, and everywhere one could see the stranger + growing sturdily on its adopted stem. Thousands of buds were sold from the + two parent trees until there were hundreds of thousands of their beautiful + children growing all over the state, giving golden harvests. + </p> + <p> + If we owe to two ladies the success of orange culture in California, it + was a third who saved the industry when ruin threatened it. For a while + all went merrily with the orange grower; then in some way, from Australia, + there came into the country an insect pest called the cushiony scale, + which settled on the orange trees and seemed likely to destroy them. “What + can be done to save our trees?” was the cry from the people of the + southland. What they did was to bring from Australia a different visitor, + the dainty bug called the ladybird. She was eagerly welcomed. No one + dreamed of bidding her, in the words of the old nursery rhyme, “fly away + home.” She was carried to the diseased orchards, where she settled on the + scale, and as it was her favorite food, she soon had the trees clean + again. In time other pests came to trouble vine and fruit growers, but it + is interesting to know that scientists nearly always succeeded in finding + some insect enemy of the troublesome visitor, which would help the + horticulturist out of his difficulties. + </p> + <p> + In the business of orange-growing, success is due in a large measure to + care in the picking, packing, and shipping of the fruit—care even in + those little things that seem almost of no consequence. The more + particular Californians are to ship only the best fruit in the best + condition and properly packed, the higher prices will the fruit bring, the + higher reputation the state gain. + </p> + <p> + The lemon industry comes closely second to the orange. This fruit does not + need so much heat as does the orange, but neither can it stand so much + cold. It needs more water, but it bears more fruit and can be marketed the + year round. The lemons not sold as fresh fruit are made to yield such + products as citric acid, oil of lemon, from which cooking essences are + made, and candied lemon peel. In this latter branch of the trade, however, + the citron is more generally used, though it is not of so delicate a + flavor. + </p> + <p> + The pomelo, or grape fruit, is fast gaining in favor and increasing in + value. + </p> + <p> + To the stranger who visits California the orange is the most interesting + of trees. To pick an orange with her own hands, and to pin on her breast a + bunch of the fragrant blossoms, is to an Eastern woman one of the most + pleasant experiences of her visit to the Golden State. + </p> + <p> + In the history of the growth of southern California, and especially of its + orange culture, the use of water on the soil plays a prominent part. It + was the discovery that the most sandy and unpromising-looking land became + a miracle of fertility when subjected to the irrigating stream, that + caused the wonderful prosperity of the dry portions of the state. + </p> + <p> + Irrigation, which means the turning of water from a well, spring, or + stream, upon land to promote the growth of plant life, has been used by + mankind for thousands of years. In Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico, + there are remains of irrigation canals made by people who lived so long + ago that we know nothing of their history. + </p> + <p> + The padres who settled California were adepts in this science. In founding + a mission they always chose its site near some stream, the water of which + could be turned upon the cultivated fields; and the dams, canals, and + reservoirs which the padres constructed were so well built that many of + them have lasted until the present time. + </p> + <p> + It will seem strange to many people to learn that the highest-priced, most + fertile farm lands in the United States are not to be found in the rich + valleys of the Eastern states or the prairies of the middle West, but in + the dry region between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. + Colorado, which belongs to the land of little rain, has in proportion to + its size the richest mines of any state in the Union, yet the product of + its farms, all irrigated, equals the output of its mineral wealth. + </p> + <p> + All the flourishing towns of southern California depend for their + wonderful prosperity upon the fertility of the irrigated country + surrounding them. + </p> + <p> + Trees and plants require water for their growth, but they do not all need + it in like quantity, nor at the same time; therefore, the scientific + farmer on arid lands, where there is an abundance of water for irrigation, + has an immense advantage over his Eastern brother who depends for water + upon the rainfall alone. + </p> + <p> + While the valuable raisin crop of the Californian is drying in the sun and + the slightest shower would damage, or perhaps ruin it, just beyond lies + the orange orchard, the trees of which are suffering for water. The fruit, + the size of a large walnut, is still hard and green, and must have an + abundance of the life-giving liquid if it is to develop into the rich + yellow orange, filled with delicious juice, which adorns the New Year’s + market. How would our ranchman prosper if he depended upon rain? As it is, + he furrows his orchard from its highest to its lowest level; then into the + flume which runs parallel with the highest boundary of the grove he turns + the water from pipe or reservoir, and opening the numerous little + slide-doors or sluice-gates of the flume, soon has the satisfaction of + seeing each furrow the bed of a running stream, the water of which sinks + slowly, steadily, down to the roots of the thirsty trees. After the water + has been flowing in this manner for some hours, it is shut off, for it has + done enough work. In a day or two the ranchman runs the cultivator over + the ground of the orchard, leaving the soil fine and crumbly and the trees + in perfect condition for another six or eight weeks of growth. + </p> + <p> + The first attempts of the American immigrant at irrigation were very + simple—just the making of a furrow turning the water of a stream + upon his land. Then, as he desired to cultivate more land and raise larger + crops, his ditches had to be longer, often having branches. Soon neighbors + came in and settled above and below him. They too used of the stream; + there was no law to control selfishness, so there were disagreements and + bitter quarrels over the water. Lawsuits followed and sometimes even + fighting and murders. The remedy for this state of things was found to be + in a company ditch, flume, or reservoir, with the use of water controlled + by fixed laws. + </p> + <p> + There are some crops, notably grapes, which are grown without irrigation. + The grapevine, instead of being treated as a climber, is each year trimmed + back to the main stem, which thus becomes a strong woody stalk, often a + foot or more in circumference, quite capable of withstanding the heat and + dryness of the atmosphere and of drawing from the soil all the nourishment + needed for the fruit. + </p> + <p> + Wheat, barley, and oats, both as grain and as hay, are largely raised + without irrigation. Olives, and many deciduous trees, by careful + cultivation may flourish without water other than the rainfall; yet + notwithstanding this, for a home in southern California, land without a + good water-right is of little value. + </p> + <p> + The wealth of the region is in a great measure in its expensive water + system, which, by means of reservoirs, dams, ditches, flumes, and pipes, + gathers the water from the mountain streams and conveys it to the thirsty + land below. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV. — California’s other Contributions to the World’s Bill + of Fare + </h2> + <p> + By 1874 people in the Eastern states had begun to talk of California + canned fruits. Apricots and the large white grape found ready sale, but + California raisins, though on the market, were not in demand. That line + from the old game “Malaga raisins are very fine raisins and figs from + Smyrna are better,” represented the idea of the public; and figs, raisins, + and prunes eaten in the United States all came from abroad. But how is it + to-day? + </p> + <p> + Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners of our Eastern friends owe much to + California. She sends the seedless raisins, candied orange and lemon peel, + the citron and beet sugar for the mince pies and plum puddings. Her + cold-storage cars carry to the winter-bound states the delicious white + celery of the peat lands, snow-white heads of cauliflower, crisp string + beans, sweet young peas, green squash, cucumbers, and ripe tomatoes. For + the salads are her olives and fresh lettuce dressed with the golden olive + oil of the Golden State. Of ripe fruits, she sends pears, grapes, oranges, + pomegranates. For desserts, she supplies great clusters of rich sugary + raisins, creamy figs, stuffed prunes, and soft-shelled almonds and + walnuts. All these and other delicacies California gives toward the + holiday making in the East. + </p> + <p> + But it is not only to the homes of the wealthy that she carries good + cheer; to people who have very little money to spend, and those who are + far away from civilization, as soldiers, surveyors, woodmen, and + road-builders, California’s products go to help make palatable fare. To + these her canned meats, fish, and vegetables, and canned and dried fruits, + are very welcome. + </p> + <p> + The canneries and fruit-packing establishments of the state bring in many + millions of dollars each year and give employment to a host of people, a + large number of whom are women and young girls. + </p> + <p> + Most of the fruits California now raises came into the country with the + padres. Captain Vancouver tells us that he found at the Santa Clara + mission, at the time of his visit in 1792, a fine orchard consisting of + apples, pears, peaches, plums, apricots; and at San Buenaventura all these + with the addition of oranges, grapes, and pomegranates. Alfred Robinson + describes the orchards and vineyards of San Gabriel mission as very + extensive. Wine and brandy were made at most of the missions, San Fernando + being especially noted for its brandy. Guadalupe Vallejo tells of bananas + plantains, sugar cane, citrons, and date palms growing at the southern + missions. Palm trees were planted “for their fruit, for the honor of St. + Francis, and for use on Palm Sunday.” + </p> + <p> + Not only did the padres enjoy fresh fruits from their gardens, but raisins + were dried from the grapes, citron, orange, and lemon peel were candied, + and much fruit was preserved. It is not recorded that they had pumpkin pie + in those days, but a small, fine-grained pumpkin was raised extensively + for preserves. It is still a favorite dainty among the native + Californians, and no Spanish dinner is complete without this dulce, as it + is called. Spanish-American housewives excel their American sisters in the + art of preserving. Pumpkin, peach, pear, fig, are all treated in the same + manner, being first soaked in lye, then thoroughly washed and scalded in + abundance of fresh water, and then cooked in a very heavy sirup. The + result of this treatment is that the outside of the fruit is crisp and + brittle, while the inside is creamy and delicious. + </p> + <p> + The first of California’s dried fruits to come before the public was the + raisin. Raisins are merely the proper variety of grapes suitably dried. + Some think that they are dipped in sugar, but this is not the fact. The + only sugar is that contained in the juice of the grape, which should be + about one fourth sugar. The only raisin grape for general use is the + greenish variety called the Muscat. The rich purple or chocolate color of + the raisin of the market is caused by the action of the sun while the + raisin is being cured. If dried in the shade the fruit has a sickly + greenish hue. The seedless Sultana is a small grape, fast coming into + favor for a cooking raisin. + </p> + <p> + The proper planting of a raisin vineyard requires a large amount of care + and labor. But the summer is one long holiday, as there is little to do to + the vines from early May until August. Then comes picking time. From all + the country round gather men and women, boys and girls, and the work + begins. + </p> + <p> + To be a successful raisin grower and packer, one must take care in all + little things. The workman who neglects to cut from the branch the + imperfect or bad grapes, or who lays the fruit in the trays so that it + will be in heaps or overlapped, is apt to be soon discharged. After about + a week of exposure to the sun and air, the grapes are turned by placing an + empty tray over a full one, and reversing the positions. Then after a few + days longer in the sun, the fruit goes to the sweat-box, a hundred pounds + to the box, and is placed in a room in the packing house, where it lies + about ten days. The bunches go into this room unequally dried, with still + a look and taste of grape about them, but after this sweating process they + come out uniform in appearance, rich, sugary, tempting,—the raisins + of commerce, with little suggestion of the fruit from which they came. + Then they are boxed. + </p> + <p> + There are generally three grades: very choice clusters, ordinary and + imperfect bunches, and loose raisins. Raisins of the third class are sent + to the stemmer and a large proportion of them then go to the seeder. + Seeding raisins for mother and grandmother at holiday times used to be the + duty and pleasure of the older boys and girls of the household. But + seeding is now done by machinery. A machine will seed on an average ten + tons daily. Before entering the seeder the raisins are subjected to a + thorough brushing, by which every particle of dust is removed. They are + then run through rubber rollers which flatten the fruit and press the + seeds to the surface; then through another pair of rollers, with wire + teeth which catch and hold the seeds while the raisins pass on down a long + chute to the packing room, where women and girls box them for market. + </p> + <p> + With all fruits the drying process is much the same, though peaches, + apples, and pears are first peeled. California figs, when dried, sell + well. This is a fruit which is growing in favor, whether fresh, preserved, + or dried. Fruit canning is an interesting process. The fruit is not boiled + in sirup and then placed in cans, as is frequently the custom in home + preserving, but when peeled it is placed directly in the cans, in which it + receives all its cooking and in which it is finally marketed. + </p> + <p> + The raising of beets and the converting of them into sugar form an + industry which is growing rapidly, and is of the utmost importance to the + people of the Pacific slope. + </p> + <p> + The canning of fresh vegetables is a new industry which is bringing into + the state a steady stream of money, and in addition is proving a double + blessing to thousands of people, both those who gain from it their living, + and those who could not otherwise have vegetables for food. A sailor said + recently that if he could not be a sailor he would do the next best thing—can + vegetables for other sailors. When Galvez received the order from the king + of Spain to found settlements in Upper California, one of the chief + reasons for so doing was that fresh vegetables might be raised for the + sailors engaged in the Philippine trade. To-day the Philippines use a + large portion of California’s canned goods. + </p> + <p> + In the southern counties olive orchards are being extensively planted. + Near San Fernando is the largest in the world, covering thirteen hundred + acres. Doctors have said that a liberal use of California olive oil will + do much to promote the good health of mankind, and it is thought by many + that the manufacture of olive oil will be one of the greatest industries + the state has known. + </p> + <p> + Nut raising is keeping pace with fruit in importance. To an Eastern person + it seems strange to see nut-bearing trees cultivated in orchards; though + profitable, this method does away with the pleasures of nutting parties. + </p> + <p> + California’s crystallized fruits are in constant demand, especially for + the Christmas trade. This crystallizing is a process in which the juice is + extracted and replaced with sugar sirup, which hardens and preserves the + fruit from decay while still keeping the shape. + </p> + <p> + One sometimes reads the saying, “Fresno for raisins, Santa Clara for + cherries and prunes, and the northern counties and mountain-ranches for + apples.” But in fact, California’s fruit industries are well distributed + over the state, and the really excellent work which is being done in all + sections will still advance as the people learn more of the necessary + details and methods. + </p> + <p> + In spite of mistakes and experiments the steady progress on the California + ranches is being recognized. Of one of our leading fruit growers, Mr. + Eliwood Cooper of Santa Barbara, the Marquis of Lorne writes in the + Youth’s Companion: “He has shown that California can produce better olive + oil than France, Spain, or Italy, and English walnuts and European almonds + in crops of which the old country hardly even dreams.” + </p> + <p> + A history of California’s products would be incomplete without a reference + to him who is called the “Wonder Worker of Santa Rosa.” “Magician! + Conjurer!” are terms frequently applied to Mr. Luther Burbank, the man who + is acknowledged by the scientists of the world to have done more with + fruits and flowers than any other man. Mr. Burbank waves his wand, and the + native poppy turns to deepest crimson, the white of the calla lily becomes + a gorgeous yellow, rose and blackberry lose their thorns, the cactus its + spines. The meat of the walnut and almond become richer in quality, while + their shells diminish to the thinness of a knife blade. + </p> + <p> + Yet in these seeming miracles there is nothing of “black art” or sleight + of hand. The experiments of this wonderful man, the surprising results he + gains, are obtained, first by a close study of the laws of nature, then, + where he desires change and improvement, by assisting her process, often + through years of closest application and unceasing toil. He is a man of + whom it is truthfully said, “He has led a life of hardships, has + sacrificed self at every point, that he might glorify and make more + beautiful the world around him.” Any boy or girl who knows something of + how plants grow and reproduce themselves will find great pleasure in + following Mr. Burbank’s simple methods. + </p> + <p> + It is only recently that his countrymen have begun to appreciate the work + of this great naturalist. A short time ago a resident of Berkeley, a + student and book-lover, one who knew Mr. Burbank but had given little + attention to his productions, was in Paris. While there he had the good + fortune to be present at a lecture delivered before a gathering of the + most eminent scientists of Europe. In the course of his address the + speaker had occasion to mention the name of Luther Burbank. Instantly + every man in the audience arose and stood a moment in silence, giving to + the simple mention of Mr. Burbank’s name the respect usually paid to the + presence of royalty. It is a name now known in all the languages of the + civilized world, and numbers of the wisest of the world’s citizens cross + the ocean solely to visit the busy plant-grower of Santa Rosa. + </p> + <p> + Luther Burbank was born in Worcester, Massachusetts, in 1849, and while + yet a lad his strongest desire was to produce new plants better than the + old ones. His first experiment was with a vegetable. For the sake of + getting seed, he planted some Early Rose potatoes in his mother’s garden. + In the whole patch only one seed-ball developed, and this he watched with + constant care. Great was his disappointment, therefore, when one morning, + just as it was ready to be picked, he found that it had disappeared. A + careful search failed to recover the missing ball, but as he thought the + matter over, while at work, it struck Luther that perhaps a dog had + knocked it off in bounding through the garden. Looking more carefully for + it, he found the ball twenty feet away from the vine on which it had hung. + In it were twenty-three small, well-developed seeds. These he planted with + great care, and from one of them came the first Burbank potatoes. The + wealth of the country was materially increased by this discovery; the + wealth of the boy only to the amount of one hundred and twenty-five + dollars, which he used in attending a better school than he had before + been able to enjoy. + </p> + <p> + In 1875 Mr. Burbank, to secure, as he said, “a climate which should be an + ally and not an enemy to his work,” moved to Santa Rosa, California. For + ten years of poverty and severe toil he was engaged, for the sake of a + livelihood, in the nursery business, making, in the meantime, such + experiments as he had time for. During the next twenty years, however, Mr. + Burbank was able to give nearly his whole time to his nature-studies. His + energy is tireless, and his aim is to supply to humanity something for + beauty, sustenance, or commerce better than it has possessed. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps among all his productions the greatest good to the world will + arise from the spineless cactus. The scourge of the American desert is the + cactus, commonly known as the prickly pear, the whole surface of which is + covered with fine, needlelike spines, while its leaves are filled with a + woody fiber most hurtful to animal life. When eaten by hunger-crazed + cattle it causes death. After years of labor Mr. Burbank has succeeded in + developing from this most unpromising of plants a perfected cactus which + is truly a storehouse of food for man and beast. Spines and woody fiber + have disappeared, leaving juicy, pear-shaped leaves, weighing often + twenty-five or fifty pounds, which, when cooked in sirup, make a delicious + preserve, and in their natural state furnish a nourishing, + thirst-quenching food for domestic animals. The fruit of this immense + plant is aromatic and delicate, and its seeds are at present worth far + more than their weight in gold, since from them are to spring thousands of + plants by means of which it is believed the uninhabitable portions of the + desert may be made to support numberless herds of cattle. + </p> + <p> + Another of Mr. Burbank’s achievements is the evergreen crimson rhubarb, + which is not only far less acid than the old variety, but richer in flavor + and a giant in size. + </p> + <p> + The pomato, a tomato grown on a potato plant, is most interesting. The + plant is a free bearer, having a white, succulent, delicious fruit, + admirable when cooked, used in a salad, or eaten fresh as our other fruit. + </p> + <p> + The experiments with prunes conducted at the Santa Rosa ranch have been of + the greatest value to the state. For forty years the prune growers of the + Pacific slope had been searching for a variety of this fruit which would + be as rich in sugar and as abundant a bearer as the little California + prune of commerce, and yet of a larger size, and earlier in its time of + ripening. Mr. Burbank with his famous sugar prune filled all these + requirements, and revolutionized the prune industry of the state. Besides + this triumph he has succeeded in obtaining a variety of this fruit having + a shell-less kernel, so that the fruit when dried much resembles those + which are artificially stuffed. + </p> + <p> + The flowers which Mr. Burbank has evolved by his methods, and those which + he has simply enlarged and glorified, are far too numerous to be named + here. + </p> + <p> + In 1905 a grant of ten thousand dollars a year was bestowed upon Mr. + Burbank by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, D.C., for the purpose + of assisting him in his experiments. Seldom has money been better placed. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI. — The Hidden Treasures of Mother Earth + </h2> + <p> + Thousands of years ago, before the time of which we have any history, + there were rivers in California,—rivers now dead,—whose sides + were steeper and whose channels were wider than those of the rivers in the + same part of the world to-day. Rapid streams they were, and busy, too; + washing away from the rocks along their sides the gold held there, + dropping the yellow grains down into the gravelly beds below. After a time + there came down upon these rivers a volcanic outflow; great quantities of + ashes, streams of lava and cement, burying them hundreds of feet deep, + until over them mountain ridges extended for miles and miles. + </p> + <p> + Other changes in the earth’s surface took place, and in the course of time + our streams of to-day were formed. As they cut their way through the + mountain ranges, some of them crossed the channels of old dead rivers, and + finding the gold hidden there, carried some of it along, rolling it over + and over, mixed with sand and gravel, down into the lower lands under the + bright sunlight. Here it was found by Marshall and the gold hunters who + followed him. These were the placer mines of which we read in Chapter VII. + — Gradually the best placer mines were taken up and the newcomers to + the gold fields traced the precious metal up the streams into the gravel + of the hillsides. Then was begun hydraulic mining, where water did the + work. In the canons great dams were constructed to catch the flow from the + melting snows of the mountains, and miles of flumes were built to carry + the water to the mining grounds. Immense pipes were laid and altogether + millions of dollars were invested in hydraulic mining. The water coming + down under heavy pressure from the mountain reservoirs passed through + giant hose which would carry a hundred miner’s inches, and, striking the + mountain side with terrific force, washed away the earth from the rocks. + Down fell the sand and gravel into sluices or boxes of running water where + cleats and other arrangements caught and held the gold, which was heavy, + while the lighter mixture was carried out into the canyon. + </p> + <p> + The material thus dumped on the mountain side was called debris, and to + any one living in the mining region of the state that word means trouble—means + fighting, lawsuits, ruin. For the debris did not stay up in the canyon, + but was washed down into the rivers, overflowing farm lands, spoiling + crops and orchards, and making the streams shallow, their waters muddy. So + great was the destruction this process caused that, in 1893, the Congress + of the United States enacted a law which provided for the creation of a + Debris Commission to regulate the business of hydraulic mining in + California. The result of the investigations of this commission was to put + a stop to all hydraulic mining in territory drained by the San Joaquin and + Sacramento rivers, or any other territory where the use of this form of + mining should injure the river systems or lands adjacent. Thus, almost in + a moment, the important industry was stopped. + </p> + <p> + It is estimated that over one hundred million dollars were invested in + hydraulic mining. Much of this was entirely lost, as the expensive + machinery rusted and the water system fell into ruins. It was very hard + for the miners, as well as for the commerce of the state, but the act of + the government was based upon the principle that one man’s business must + not damage another man’s property. Clever engineers in the pay of the + government are still trying to find some way by which the debris can be + safely disposed of in order that this valuable system may resume + operation. + </p> + <p> + Deprived of the use of water as their agent, gold hunters next tried + mining by drifts; that is, by tunneling into the mountain’s side until the + bed of a buried river is reached. These tunnels are often five thousand to + eight thousand feet long. The gold is brought out of the ground before it + is washed clean of the gravel. Sometimes it is mixed with cement, when it + has to be crushed in rollers before it can be cleared of other material. + The counties where drift mining is most in operation are Placer, Nevada, + and Sierra. + </p> + <p> + Quartz mining is the most expensive manner of getting out gold, and a + great deal of valuable and complicated machinery has been invented for + this branch of the business. The quartz mines of California are among the + richest in the world, and some of the greatest fortunes of modern times + have been made from them. + </p> + <p> + In a mine of this kind there is generally a shaft, or opening, extending + straight down into the earth, from which, at different levels, passageways + branch out where the veins of gold are richest. The openings must be + timbered to prevent caving in, and there must be pumps to remove the water + as well as hoisting works to take out the material. Then on the surface, + as near as possible to the mouth of the mine, must be located the quartz + mill. When possible, a tunnel is used in this mining, which makes the + handling of ore less expensive, for then there need be no hoisting works + or pumps, since the tunnel drains itself. + </p> + <p> + Gold in quartz rock is generally in ledges or veins, one to three feet in + width. Digging it out is not very hard, save where there is not enough + room to stand upright and use the pick, or when, in a shaft deep in the + ground, the heat makes it difficult to work. A California boy at the mines + wrote recently: “Mining is not so bad; that is, if I could get along + without the occasional whack I bestow upon my left hand. Last week I + started a little tunnel and pounded my hand so that it swelled up + considerably. Drilling is not hard, and loading is a snap, but it’s all + interesting work and there is the excitement of seeing what you are going + to find next.” + </p> + <p> + When the ore reaches the surface it is sent to the mill, where it is first + pulverized, then mixed with a chemical which goes about catching up the + grains of gold—arresting and holding them fast. It is quite a long + process before the gold is completely separated from all other material + and ready for shipment. Often the quartz contains other minerals of value, + the separation of which requires much work. + </p> + <p> + There is a very rich mine in Nevada called the Comstock, which some years + ago had sunk its shafts so deep into the earth that it became almost + impossible for the miners to work on account of the great heat, the bad + air, and the quantity of water which had constantly to be pumped out. How + these troubles were remedied is the story of one of California’s greatest + and best citizens. Adolph Sutro was a Prussian by birth, and his adopted + state may well be proud to claim him. He had built a little quartz mill in + Nevada, near the Comstock mine. Seeing the suffering of the workmen in all + the mines on that mountain side, he thought of a plan for the construction + of a large tunnel which was to begin at a low level at the nearest point + of the Carson River and run deep into the mountain so that it could drain + all the rich mining section, give good ventilation for the deep + underground works, and afford a much cheaper and more convenient way of + taking care of the ore. It was to be four miles long, with branches + extending from it to different mines. Its height was to be ten feet; + width, twelve, with a drainage trench in the center to carry away the + waste water to the Carson River, and tracks on each side for the passage + of mules and cars. + </p> + <p> + At first the mine owners were pleased with the project, and Mr. Sutro + succeeded in forming a company to build the tunnel. Then he went to + Washington, where the government became so interested in his plans that on + July 25, 1866, there was passed an act of Congress granting Sutro such + privileges in regard to public lands as would safeguard his work. About + the time that the news of this action reached the West, the men who owned + the mines and had made an arrangement for the use of the tunnel, decided + that they did not want the work done; it is said, for the reason that they + found Mr. Sutro too wise and far-seeing for them to be able to manage him. + At all events, with all their wealth and power they tried to ruin him. + They said that his plans were worthless, and any one was foolish to invest + in the tunnel company. Then Mr. Sutro, by means of lectures upon the + subject, appealed to the people. In California, Nevada, the Eastern + states, and even Europe, he told what his plans would do for the miners + and the good of the country. It was not long before he gained all the help + he needed, and the great work was begun. + </p> + <p> + As the workmen progressed into the mountain side there were many + difficulties to overcome. Day and night without ceasing the work went on. + Laborers would faint from the combined heat and bad air, and be carried to + the outer world to be revived. Carpenters followed the drillers, trackmen + coming closely after. Loose rock, freshly blasted, was tumbled into + waiting cars and hauled away over rails laid perhaps but half an hour + before. Constantly in the front was Sutro himself, coat flung aside, + sleeves rolled up. In the midst of the flying dirt, great heat, bad air, + dripping slush, and slippery mud he worked side by side with the grimy, + half-naked miners, thus showing himself capable not only of planning a + great work, but of seeing personally that it was well done, no matter with + what sacrifice to his own ease and comfort. + </p> + <p> + After the tunnel was completed, Mr. Sutro sold his interest in it for + several millions of dollars. How that money was expended, any visitor to + San Francisco well knows. With it were built the great Sutro baths, with + their immense tanks of pure and constantly changing, tempered ocean water, + their many dressing rooms, their grand staircases, adorned with rare + growing plants, their tiers of seats rising in rows, one above another, + with room for thousands of spectators, and their galleries of pictures and + choice works of art. Over all is a roof of steel and tinted glass. Nowhere + else in America is there so fine a bathing establishment. + </p> + <p> + Besides this there are the lovely gardens of Sutro Heights, developed by + Mr. Sutro’s money and genius from the barren sand-hills of the San Miguel + rancho. In addition to these is the choice library of about two hundred + thousand volumes, which is of great use to the people of San Francisco. + Perhaps neither San Francisco nor California has yet quite appreciated the + value of the work of Adolph Sutro. + </p> + <p> + Since 1848 the state of California has sent to the United States Mint over + one billion dollars in gold. Of this, little Nevada County, which seems to + be worth literally her weight in gold, has sent over two hundred and forty + million. The Empire Mine is the leading producer of California, but there + are others nearly as rich. Nevada City is in the center of this mining + country. The streets are very hilly, and after a heavy rain people may be + seen searching the city gutters and newly-formed rivulets for gold, and + they are sometimes rewarded by finding fair-sized nuggets washed down from + the hills above. + </p> + <p> + A visitor to one of the deep mines of California says:— + </p> + <p> + “We descended to the seven hundred foot level, where the day before a pile + of ore had been blasted down. A little piece of the quartz, crushed in a + mortar panned out four dollars in gold. I picked out one piece of rock, + not larger than a peach, and the manager, after weighing and testing it, + announced that it contained ten dollars in free gold. The kick of a boot + would reveal ore which showed glittering specks of pure gold.” + </p> + <p> + In the estimate of many people all very valuable mines are supposed to be + of gold, but this is a mistake. While gold is king in California, copper + mining is rapidly becoming of great importance. A continuous copper belt, + the largest yet discovered in the world, exists under her soil, and while + a comparatively small depth has been so far attained, the profit has been + considerable. One of the largest quicksilver mines in the world is at New + Almaden. The value of the output of the borax mines is over a million + dollars a year. There were mined in California in 1907 over fifty + different materials, most of them at a value of several thousand dollars a + year, with some as high as a million and over. + </p> + <p> + The mineral product of California outranking gold in value is petroleum, + which has added greatly to the wealth of the state. Natural gas and + mineral waters are also valuable commercial products. + </p> + <p> + To many, the most interesting class among minerals is the gems, of which + California yields a variety. The beautiful lilac stone, Kunzite, was + discovered near Pala, San Diego County. This county has also some fine + specimens of garnets, and beautiful tourmalines are being mined at a + profit. San Bernardino County yields a superior grade of turquoise from + which has been realized as much as eleven thousand dollars a year. + Chrysoprase is being mined in Tulare County, also the beautiful new green + gem something like clear jade, called Californite. Topaz, both blue and + white, is being found, and besides these, many diamonds of good quality + have been collected, principally from the gravels of the hydraulic mines. + In 1907 there was discovered in the mountains of San Benito County a + beautiful blue stone closely resembling sapphire, more brilliant but less + durable. It was named, by professors of mineralogy in the state + university, Benitite, from the place where it was discovered. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps the most valuable of all the products of California is its water + supply, either visible as in springs and streams, or underground as in + artesian water. Of its use in irrigation, we have already spoken. In the + production of electricity it is coming to be of the greatest importance, + making possible the most stupendous works of modern times. Such is the + undertaking of the Edison Electric Company in bringing down to Los + Angeles, over many miles of the roughest country, power from the Kern + River, tapping the tumultuous stream far up in the Sierras. The taking of + the necessary machinery to those heights was in itself a wonderful labor. + The power thus created is a blessing to a wide region. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII. — From La Escuela of Spanish California to the Schools + of the Twentieth + </h2> + <p> + Century + </p> + <p> + In no line has California advanced so far beyond the days of the padres as + in her schools. In the early settlements there were no educated people but + the priests at the missions and the Spanish officers with their families + at the presidios. Later, clever men of good families came into the + territory, took up land, and made their homes on the great ranchos, but + among these there were few who would take the time or trouble to teach the + children; so life to the young people was a long holiday. The sad result + was that they grew up so ignorant as to astonish the educated strangers + who visited the coast. + </p> + <p> + At the missions the padres had schools where they taught the young Indians + something of reading and writing, religious services and songs, and the + trades necessary for life. This, with their duties in the church and the + extensive building and planting of the mission settlements, took all the + time of the hard-working priests. Occasionally, an educated woman would + teach her own children and those of her relatives, but like most attempts + at home education, it was so interrupted as to amount to little. + </p> + <p> + In 1794 a new governor came from Spain who was so shocked at this state of + affairs that he at once ordered three schools opened. The first, December, + 1794, was held in a granary at San Jose and was in charge of a retired + sergeant of the Spanish army. The children had been so long free from all + restraint that they did not like to go to school, and their parents did + not always take the trouble to insist. There were some reasons for this, + as the masters did not know much about what they were trying to teach, and + the use of the ferule and scourge (the latter a whip of cords tipped with + iron) was frequent and cruel. There were no books but primers, and these + were hard to obtain. The writing, paper was furnished by the military + authorities and had to be returned when the child was through with it, + that it might be used in making cartridges. These schools were for boys + only, girls not being expected to learn anything except cooking, sewing, + and embroidery. + </p> + <p> + Slowly the state of things improved, and in 1829 in the yearly report to + the Mexican government, it was stated that there were eleven primary + schools in the province with three hundred and thirty-nine boys and girls. + One of the best of these schools was that of Don Ignacio Coronel of Los + Angeles. + </p> + <p> + In 1846 the first American school was opened at Santa Clara by Mrs. Oliver + Mann Isbell. It provided for children from about twenty emigrant families + and was held in a room of the Santa Clara mission on the great patio. The + floor was of earth, the seats boxes; an opening in the tiled roof over the + center of the room allowing the smoke to escape when, on rainy days, a + fire was built on a rude platform of stones set in the middle of the + floor. Wherever the Americans lived, they would have schools, although + their first buildings were bare and inconvenient, with no grace or + adornment either inside or out. In some out-of-the-way places, whole terms + of school were spent most happily under spreading live oaks. + </p> + <p> + In the making of the first constitution, educational matters were not + forgotten; one section providing that there should be a common school + system supported by money from the sale of public lands. On account of the + minerals the lands so allotted were supposed to contain, it was believed + that they would sell for such vast amounts that the state would have money + sufficient for the grandest public schools that ever existed. In fact + these lands brought in altogether, after a number of years, less than a + quarter of a million dollars. The act provided also that the schools be + kept open three months in the year. An effort was made to extend this + period to six months, but was defeated by Senator Gwin. + </p> + <p> + Considering the state of the country when the public schools were begun, + and the short time in which they have been developed, the California free + schools are a credit to the state and to the men and women who have helped + to make them what they are. No community is so poor and remote but that it + may have its school if the inhabitants choose to organize for the purpose. + Hardly can the settler find a ranch from which his children may not attend + a district school over which floats the stars and stripes. + </p> + <p> + Money for educational purposes is now raised by state and county taxes on + property, this sum, in cities, being largely increased by the addition of + the city taxes. High schools have only recently been given state aid, and + that moderately; the larger ones still depending, in a great measure, upon + the special tax of the city, district, or county, according to the class + to which the school belongs. The state supports one Polytechnic school, + that at San Luis Obispo, where there are three courses, agriculture, + mechanics, and domestic science. + </p> + <p> + About 1878, in the endeavor to teach the children of the worst parts of + San Francisco a right way of living, the free kindergartens were begun. + Perhaps their success cannot be better shown than in the fact that in the + first year of the work along “Barbary coast,” one of the most turbulent + districts of the city, the Italian fruit and vegetable dealers who lived + there, brought the teachers a purse of seventy-five dollars, because the + children had been taught not to steal their fruits and vegetables or to + break their windows. The first free kindergarten was started on Silver + Street in “Tar Flats” and had for its teacher a pretty young girl, with + beautiful eyes and a mass of bronze-colored hair, whom the ragged little + urchins soon learned to adore. That little school was the beginning of one + of the best kindergarten systems in the country, and the pretty young + teacher is now Kate Douglas Wiggin, one of America’s best loved writers, + the author of those delightful books, “The Birds’ Christmas Carol,” + “Timothy’s Quest” and others equally interesting. There have been many + gifts to these kindergartens. In memory of their only son, Mr. and Mrs. + Leland Stanford gave one hundred thousand dollars, while Mrs. Phoebe + Hearst supported entirely three of the schools. Kindergartens may now form + part of the primary department in the school system of any community so + desiring, and are to be found in most of the cities. + </p> + <p> + Nothing in the educational work of California is of more importance than + the five normal schools, which graduate each year hundreds of teachers + thoroughly prepared in all branches for the important work of training the + children of the state. + </p> + <p> + As the crown of the free school system, stands the state university at + Berkeley. Many an interesting story might be told of the noble men, who as + early as 1849 began their long struggle to gain for the youth of + California the chance for higher education. The Reverend Samuel Willey, + the American consul Mr. Larkin, and Mr. Sherman Day were leaders in this + enterprise. There was much against them; men’s thoughts were almost + entirely given to the necessities of everyday life, and few seemed able to + see that a grand and beautiful future was coming to the new territory. The + university secured its charter in 1868, but it was not until the adoption + of the new constitution in 1879 that it was placed on a firm basis which + could not be changed by each new legislature. + </p> + <p> + The coming of Mr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler to the presidency was one of the + best strokes of fortune the institution has ever known. Under his + management it has taken a great stride forward. In the work it does, and + the high standard it demands, it takes its place side by side with the + best universities of the older Eastern states. The work of its college of + agriculture is becoming of great service to the farmer and fruit grower. + The result of its experiments in determining the best wheat for the soil + is of very great importance to the grain industry of the state. + </p> + <p> + Connected with the university are: the Lick Observatory on Mount Hamilton; + the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, the Hastings College of Law, and + Colleges of Medicine, Dentistry, and Pharmacy, in San Francisco; and an + admirable University Extension Course which offers its advantages to the + people of any locality throughout the state who may desire its help. + </p> + <p> + One of the most practical and important associations in the state is the + Farmer’s Institute, which, under direction and control of the university, + holds a three days’ meeting once a month in each locality throughout the + state. Also, once a year, an institute of a week’s duration is held at + Berkeley, where eminent scientists give their services, and the results + are most helpful. + </p> + <p> + The university has received many gifts from distinguished citizens. Mrs. + Phoebe Hearst has devoted much of her time and a large amount of her money + to its improvement, and plans are under way to make it the most finished + and beautiful educational institution ever owned by any state or country. + </p> + <p> + Barely one hour’s ride from San Francisco south, lies the Leland Stanford + Junior University, which at the time of its foundation, in 1885, was the + greatest gift ever bestowed upon humanity by any one person. In this noble + movement Mr. and Mrs. Stanford were as one. Their only son died in 1884, + and the university is a memorial of him, a grand example of the way in + which those who are dead may yet live, through the good done in their + names. Although entirely a private benefaction, its doors are open to + students absolutely free of all tuition charges. + </p> + <p> + This university started with a large endowment, but after the death of Mr. + Stanford, a lawsuit with the United States, and a shrinkage in the value + of the properties it owned, ran the finances so low that for a short time + it was found necessary to charge a small entrance fee. Even then, the + college was kept open only through the economy and self-sacrifice of Mrs. + Stanford and the members of the faculty, who stood by the institution with + noble unselfishness. By the year 1906 the financial condition had become + satisfactory and the attendance had materially increased. Two handsome new + buildings, one for the library and the other for the gymnasium, were about + completed when, on April 18, an earthquake, the most destructive ever + experienced on the Pacific coast, shook all the region around San + Francisco Bay. Stanford suffered severely: the two new buildings were + ruined; so, too, was the museum and a portion of the chemistry building. + Both the noble arch and the mosaics in the front of the memorial chapel + were destroyed. Beyond this, comparatively little damage was done to the + college buildings. The graduating exercises were postponed until the fall + term; otherwise the disaster did not interfere seriously with the routine + of study, neither did it affect the attendance in 1906-7, which was + unusually large. In the fall of 1907 President Jordan stated that he was + empowered to announce that Thomas Weldon Stanford, brother of Senator + Leland Stanford, had decided to give the university his own large fortune + of several millions. + </p> + <p> + It is generally recognized that the university owes a great part of its + present success to the splendid talents and faithfulness of President + Jordan, who has given the hardest labor of the best years of his busy life + to helping it onward and upward. Its educational work is thorough, and its + requirements are being steadily raised. It stands for the highest + education that is possible. Addition is constantly being made to its group + of noble buildings. Beautiful Stanford is the sparkling jewel in + California’s diadem. + </p> + <p> + Not far from the University of California in the suburbs of Oakland is + situated Mills College, which for many years was the only advanced school + for girls of which the state could boast. This institution had its + beginning as a seminary in Benicia, but was moved to its present situation + in 1871. In 1885 it became a college with a state charter. In plan of + studies and high Christian aim, it resembles Mount Holyoke, from which + many of its leading instructors have been graduated. + </p> + <p> + There is no place here to speak of all the leading private schools of the + state. Throop Polytechnic in Pasadena, the Thatcher School in the valley + of the Ojai, and Belmont Military Academy are among the best. A word, + however, must be said in tribute to Santa Clara College, without which the + California youth of from twenty to forty years ago would have been lacking + in that higher education which stands for so much in the making of a + state. Incorporated in 1851, it was opened with funds amounting to but one + hundred and fifty dollars, yet it grew steadily. With a clever Jesuit + faculty, this college has done admirable work of so thorough a character + as to win the praise of all those who have come in contact with its + results. From it have been graduated such men as Stephen M. White, + Reginaldo del Valle, and many other of our leading professional and + business men. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVIII. — Statistics + </h2> + <p> + The state of California lies between the parallels 32¡ and 42¡ north + latitude, extending over a space represented on the eastern coast by the + country between Edisto Inlet, South Carolina, and the northern point of + Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Its northern third lies between 120¡ and 124¡ 26’ + west longitude. From Cape Mendocino, its most westerly point, the coast + trends southeastward to San Diego Bay. The total coast line on the Pacific + is 1200 miles. + </p> + <p> + The state’s greatest width is 235 miles, which is between Point Conception + and the northern end of the Amaragosa Range on the Nevada line. It is + narrowest between Golden Gate and the southern end of Lake Tahoe. Its area + is 158,297 sq. miles, second only to Texas of all the states. + </p> + <p> + The population of California, according to the United States census of + 1920, is 3,426,861, which has since been greatly increased. The following + table shows the counties of the State:— + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Counties of California + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Area Population Valuation + Name Origin and Meaning of Name + Sq. Mi. 1920 1910 of Property County Seat + + Alameda Sp., Shaded promenade + 764 344,127 246,131 128,681,766 Oakland + Alpine + 710 243 309 422,063 Markleeville + Amador Sp., Sweetheart + 632 7,793 9,086 4,918,908 Jackson + Butte Fr., Rounded, detached hill + 1,660 30,030 27,301 16,057,766 Oroville + Calaveras Sp., Skul’s (from Indian battle ground) + 1,080 6,183 9,171 6,177,285 San Andreas + Colusa Ind. + 1,088 9,290 7,732 12,188,096 Colusa + Contra Costa Sp., Opposite coast + 728 53,889 31,674 21,753,956 Martinez + Del Norte Sp., Of the North + 992 2,759 2,417 2,882,445 Crescent City + Eldorado Sp., The gilded (name given to fabled land of gold) + 1,796 6,426 7,492 4,668,840 Placerville + Fresno Sp., Ash tree + 6,152 128,779 75,657 34,302,205 Fresno + Glenn + 1,270 11,853 7,172 10,645,524 Willow + Humboldt (named for Baron von Humboldt) + 3,496 37,413 33,857 24,911,492 Eureka + Imperial + 4,200 43,383 13,591 El Centro + Inyo + 10,294 7,031 6,974 2,316,319 Independence + Kern + 8,050 54,843 37,715 24,050,871 Bakersfield + Kings + 1,176 22,032 16,230 7,883,009 Hanford + Lake + 1,328 5,402 5,526 3,258,020 Lakeport + Lassen + 4,520 8,507 4,802 4,590,748 Susanville + Los Angeles Sp., The angels + 4,200 936,438 504,132 169,268,166 Los Angeles + Madera Sp., Timber + 2,062 12,203 8,368 6,732,495 Madera + Marin Ind. + 549 27,342 25,114 14,489,582 San Rafael + Mariposa Sp., Butterfly + 1,510 2,775 3,956 2,270,246 Mariposa + Mendocino Sp., (from Mendoza, viceroy of Mexico) + 3,626 24,116 23,929 13,131,995 Ukiah + Merced Sp., Mercy + 1,932 24,579 15,148 14,877,086 Merced + Modoc Ind. + 3,741 5,425 6,191 4,076,680 Alturas + Mono Sp., Monkey, or pretty + 3,020 960 2,042 1,151,109 Bridgeport + Monterey Sp., King’s forest + 3,340 27,980 24,146 18,962,554 Salinas + Napa Ind. + 780 20,678 19,800 13,840,291 Napa + Nevada Sp., Heavy fall of snow + 972 10,850 14,955 7,203,349 Nevada City + Orange (named for its chief product) + 750 61,375 34,436 13,812 Santa Ana + Placer Sp., Loose (from placer mines) + 1,365 18,584 18,237 9,677,724 Auburn + Plumas Sp., Feathers + 2,694 5,681 5,259 2,792,091 Quincy + Riverside + 7,323 50,297 34,696 16,373,296 Riverside + Sacramento Sp., The Sacrament + 1,000 90,978 67,806 41,333,337 Sacramento + San Benito Sp., St. Benedict + 1,388 8,995 8,041 6,499,068 Hollister + San Bernardino Sp., St. Bernard + 19,947 73,401 56,706 21,392,228 San Bernardino + San Diego Sp., St. James + 4,278 112,248 61,665 20,807,594 San Diego + San Francisco Sp., St. Francis (of Assisi) + 47 506,676 416,912 564,070,301 San Francisco + San Joaquin Sp., name of a saint + 1,396 79,905 50,732 34,740,353 Stockton + San Luis Obispo Sp., St. Louis the Bishop + 3,310 21,893 19,383 13,680,235 San Luis Obispo + San Mateo Sp., St. Matthew + 434 36,781 26,585 18,999,564 Redwood City + Santa Barbara Sp., St. Barbara + 2,632 41,097 27,738 18,849,976 Santa Barbara + Santa Clara Sp., name of a saint + 1,286 100,588 83,539 61,390,817 San Jose + Santa Cruz Sp., Holy Cross + 424 26,269 26,240 12,560,071 Santa Cruz + Shasta Fr., Chaste, pure + 3,876 13,311 18,920 10,902,036 Redding + Sierra Sp., Sawtoothed Ridge + 960 1,783 4,098 1,844,560 Downieville + Siskiyou + 5,991 13,545 18,801 10,560,650 Treks + Solano Sp., name of a mission + 900 40,602 27,559 20,195,481 Fairfield + Sonoma Ind., Valley of the Moon + 1,620 51,990 48,394 30,380,419 Santa Rosa + Stanislaus + 1,456 43,557 22,522 12,834,108 Modesto + Sutter (named for J. A. Sutter) + 622 10,115 6,328 6,621,047 Yuba City + Tehama + 3,008 12,882 11,401 11,674,562 Red Bluff + Trinity + 3,282 2,552 3,301 1,651,362 Weaverville + Tulare Sp., Reed-covered + 4,952 59,032 35,440 17,447,042 Visalia + Tuolumne Ind., Stone wigwams + 2,208 7,768 9,979 7,089,725 Sonora + Ventura Sp. + 1,722 28,724 18,347 11,171,219 Ventura + Yolo Ind., Rushes + 996 17,105 13,926 17,640,436 Woodland + Yuba Sp., Uba, wild grapes + 636 10,375 10,042 5,898,350 Marysville +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_LIST" id="link2H_LIST"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + List of Governors + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Gaspar de Portola, April, 1769 + Pedro Fages, July, 1770 + Fernando Rivera y Moncada, May 25, 1774 + Felipe de Neve, Feb. 3, 1777 + Pedro Fages, Sept. 1O, 1782 + Jose Romeu, April 16, 1791 + Jose Arrillaga, April 9, 1792 + Diego de Borica, May 14, 1794 + Jose Arrillaga, Jan. 16, 1800 + Jose Arguello, July 24, 1814 + Pablo de Sola, March 31, 1815 + + California became province of the Mexican Empire, April 11, 1822 + + Luis Arguello, Nov. 10, 1822, First native Governor. + + March 26, 1825, California became province of Mexican Republic. + + Jose Maria Echeandia, Nov. 8, 1825 + Manuel Victoria, Jan. 31, 1831 + Jose Maria Echeandia, Dec. 6, 1831 + Jose Figueroa, Jan. 15, 1833 + Jose Castro, Sept. 29, 1835 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Jan. 2, 1836 + Mariano Chico, May 3, 1836 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Sept. 6, 1836 + Jose Castro, Nov. 5, 1836 + Juan B. Alvarado, Dec. 7, 1836 + Manuel Micheltorena, Dec. 31, 1842 + Pio Pico, Feb. 22, 1845, to Aug. 10, 1846, end of Mexican rule. + + The following were Governors under Military Rule, U.S.A. + + John D. Sloat, July 7, 1846 + Robert F. Stockton, July 29, 1846 + John C. Fremont, Military Governor, Jan. 19, 1847, for 50 days + Stephen W. Kearny, Military Governor, March to May 31, 1847 + R. B. Mason, Military Governor, May 31, 1847 + Persifer F. Smith, Military Governor, Feb. 28, 1849 + Bennet Riley, April 12, 1849 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Peter H. Burnett, Dec. 20, 1849, First State Governor, Democratic, + received 6716 votes, total vote, 12,064. + John McDougall, Lieutenant Governor, became Governor Jan. 9, 1851, + Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 8, 1852, Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 7, 1854, Democrat + John Neely Johnson, Jan. 9, 1856, American Party + John B. Weller, Jan. 8, 1858, Democrat + Milton S. Latham, Jan. 9, 1860, Democrat + John G. Downey (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Jan. 14, 1860, + Democrat + Leland Stanford, Jan. 10, 1862, Republican + Frederick F. Low, Dec. 10, 1863, Union Party + Henry H. Haight, Dec. 5, 1867, Democrat + Newton Booth, Dec. 8, 1871, Republican + Romualdo Pacheco (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Feb. 27, 1875, + Republican (native state Governor) + William Irwin, Dec. 8, 1875, Democrat + Geo. C. Perkins, Jan. 8, 1880, Republican + Geo. Stoneman, Jan. 10, 1883, Democrat + Washington Bartlett, Jan. 8, 1887, Democrat + Robert W. Waterman (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Sept. 13, 1887, + Republican + H. H. Markham, Jan. 8, 1891, Republican + James H. Budd, Jan. II, 1895, Democrat + Henry T. Gage, Jan. 4, 1899, Republican + Geo. C. Pardee, Jan. 7, 1903, Republican + James N. Gillett, Jan. 9, 1907, Republican + Hiram W. Johnson, January, 1911, Republican; reelected on Progressive + ticket, 1914 + William D. Stephens (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated March 15, 1917, + Progressive +</pre> + <p> + Electoral Vote + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1852, Democratic, 4 votes + 1856, Democratic, 4 votes + 1860, Republican, 4 votes + 1864, Republican, 5 votes + 1868, Republican, 5 votes + 1872, Republican, 6 votes + 1876, Republican, 6 votes + 1880 Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 5 votes + 1884, Republican, 8 votes + 1888, Republican, 8 votes + 1892, Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 8 votes + 1896, Republican, 8 votes + Democratic, People’s and Silver parties, 1 vote + 1900, Republican, 9 votes + 1904, Republican, 9 votes + 1908, Republican, to votes + 1912, Democratic, 2 votes + Progressive, 11 votes + 1916, Democratic, 13 votes + 1920, Republican, 13 votes +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_BIBL" id="link2H_BIBL"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Bibliography + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Bancroft—“History of California,” vols. I, II, Ill, IV, V, VI, VII. + Bancroft—“California Pastoral.” + Bancroft—“History of North Mexican States.” + Hittell—“History of California,” vols. I, II, III, IV. + Royce—“History of California.” + Blackmar—“Spanish Institutions of the Southwest.” + Montalvo—“Sergas of Esplandian.” Translator, E. E. Hale, Atlantic + Monthly, Vol. XIII, p. 265. + Vancouver—“Voyage of Discovery to the Pacific Ocean,” vol. III. + Geronimo Boscano—“Chinigchinich,” “History of Mission Indians.” + Translator, + Alfred Robinson—“Life in California.” + Francisco Palou—“Life of Fray Junipero Serra.” + Junipero Serra—“Diary.” Translated in magazine Out West, March-July, + 1902. + Hakluyt—“Drake’s Voyages.” + Vanegas—“History of California.” + Davis—“Sixty Years in California.” + Colton—“Three Years in California.” + Fremont—“Memoirs.” + Sherman—“Memoirs.” Century Magazine, vols. 41-42. + Stoddard—“In the Footsteps of the Padres.” + Lummis—“The Right Hand of the Continent.” Series, Out West Magazine, + 1903. + Lummis—” Spanish Pioneers.” + Jackson—“A Century of Dishonor.” + Jackson—“Ramona.” + California Book of Louisiana Purchase Exposition. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Index + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Abalone, 22 + Acapulco, 68 + Admission to the Union, 179-182 + Adobe, 93 + Alameda, 182 + Alaska, 214 + Alba, 110 + Alcalde, 104, 108, 173, 174 + Alfalfa, 244 + Afileria, 209 + Alta, 86 + Alvarado, 125, 133, 134, 136 + American government of California, 173-179 + American River, 150 + Americans in California, 129, 134, 140-146, 149 + Anaheim, settled, 212 + Anian, Strait of, 53, 62 + Apricots, 256 + Area, 289 + Arguello, Captain Lulls, 128, 131, 132 + Arguello family, 145 + Arroyo Seco, 97, 146 + Ascension, Padre, 8, 670 + Atole, 94 + Avalon, 68 + Ayala, Lieutenant, 88 + Bahia, 249 + Bailey, W. F., quoted, 185 + Bananas, 257 + Bancroft, quoted, 206 + Bandini, aids Americans, 145 + Bandini, Dona Arcadia, quoted, 137 + Bandini, Mrs., makes flag, 146 + Barley, 255 + Bautista, 134 + Bear Flag Republic, 142 + Beets, 260 + Belmont Military Academy, 287 + Benitite, 277 + Benton, Senator, 182, 195 + Berkeley, State University at, 283 + Bidwell, quoted, 166 + Bolero, 116 + Bonito, 22 + Borax, 276 + British, visit California, 130 + Broderick, David C., 190, 191 + Buffalo Bill, 186 + Burbank, Luther, 262-266 + Burnett, Peter, 181 + Butte County, oranges in, 247 + Cable, Pacific, 225 + Cabo de Pinos, 55 + Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez, 48-56, 72 + Cacafuegos, 60 + Cactus, 265 + Cahuenga, treaty of, 146, 148 + Calaveras grove, 235 + Calhoun, 179 + California, area of, 289 + California, climate of, 13-18 + California, geography of, 13,14 + California, name, origin of, 11, 12 + California Column, 198 + California Lancers, 193 + Californite, 276 + Camisa, 116 + Canneries, 257, 260, 261 + Cape Mendocino, 67 + Capitol, 204 + Carmelo River, 71, 87 + Carmenon, Sebastin, explorations of, 67 + Carne seco, 101 + Carquinez, Strait of, 14 + Carreta, 116, 118, 213 + Carrillo, in convention, 177 + Castillo, Domingo, map of, 12 + Castro, General, 139, 140, 142 + Cattle raising, 108, 113 + Celery, 256 + Central Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + Chagres, Panama, 163 + Chamisso, Albert von, 182 + Chapman, 125, 126 + Cherries, 262 + China, war with Japan, 223 + Chinese, in California, 202, 203 + Chinese, work on railroad, 198 + Chinigchinich, 25, 33-36, 45, 47 + Chippa, 43-45 + Cholos, 138 + Cigaritos, 109 + Citron, 246, 256 + Civil War, 180, 189-194 + Clay, Henry, 178 + Cleeta, 19-29, 45-47 + Climate, 13-18 + Club wheat, 242 + Cody, Mr., 186 + Coloma, mill near, 150 + Columbia, and Panama Canal, 222 + Colony days, 211-214 + Colton, Rev. Walter, 173, 174 + Colton, quoted, 203 + Comandante, 136 + Comstock mine, 271 + Concepcion de Arguello, 130, 131 + Conquest of California, 139-146 + Constitution of 1849, 178 + Constitution of 1879, 203 + Constitutional Convention of 1849, 177 + Cooper, Ellwood, 262 + Copper mining, 276 + Corn, 244 + Coronel, Don Ignacio, school of, 280 + Cortez, Hernando, 12, 53, 74 + Cotopacnic, 46 + Counties, 290, 291 + Cradle, used in mining, 158 + Crespi, Juan, 75, 100 + Crocker, Charles, 197-199 + Cuatrito, 117 + Cuchuma, 22, 26, 32, 35, 45 + Cushiony scale, 250 + Day, Sherman, 284 + Debris, 268 + Del Valle, Reginaldo, 288 + Dewey, Commodore, in Spanish war, 217 + Dios, 110 + Dolores mission, 88 + Donner party, 167 + Dragontea, 57 + Drake, Sir Francis, 57-66, 12, 73 + Drakes Bay, 63 + Dress of early Californians, 115, 116 + Dried fruits, 260 + Drift mining, 269 + Dulce, 258. + Earthquake (1906), 225-228 + El Camino Real, 95 + El Refugio, 125 + Empire mine, 274 + England, explorations, 59-66 + Escuela, 279 + Explorations, 48-73, 81-83 + Farallones, 81 + Farmer’s Institute, 285 + Ferrelo, 56, 57, 85 + Festivals, 126 + Fiesta, 126 + Figs, 260 + Flores, General, 146 + Flour trade, 243 + Forests, 229-236 + Forty-niners, 156, 172 + Fremont, Captain, 139-143, 146 + Fremont, dispute with Kearny, 148, 149 + Fremont, elected senator, 178 + Fremont, explorations, 139, 107, 195 + Fremont, on land question, 182 + French, visit California, 129 + Frijoles, 98 + Fruit, 246-263 + Fruit, canned, 257, 260 + Fruit, crystallized, 261 + Fruit, dried, 260 + Fruit, preserved, 258 + Fugitive Slave Law, 190 + Galli, Francisco, 66 + Galvez, Jose de, 75-78, 84, 87 + Gems, 276 + Gente de razon, 124 + Gentiles, 80 + Gesnip, 19-33, 38-47 + Gicamas, 70 + Gigantea, 234 + Gillespie, 140, 143, 146 + Gold, discovered, 147, 151, 155 + Gold, early mining, 154-160 + Gold, modern mines, 267-271, 274 + Golden Hind, ship, 66 + Governors, list of, 292 + Graham, 133, 134 + Grain, 238-245 + Grape fruit, 252 + Grapes, 254, 258-260 + Guam, 225 + Gwin, in convention, 177 + Gwin, senator, 178, 189, 190, 281 + Hague, 220, 221 + Harte, Bret, 180, 200 + Harvester, 240 + Hawaii, 218-220, 225 + Hearst, Mrs. Phoebe, 283, 285 + Hecox, Mrs., quoted, 171 + Hittell, quoted, 205 + Hopkins, Mark, 197 + Huntington, Collis P., 197, 198 + Huntington, H. E., 239 + Hydraulic mining, 160, 268, 269 + Ide, 141. + Immigration after 1848, 156, 161-172 + Indian Bar, 184 + Indians, aborigines, 19-47, 54, 63, 64 + Indians, baskets, 43-45 + Indians, boats, 39 + Indians, clothing, 21, 31, 32, 33, 43, 63 + Indians, food, 28, 29, 38, 42, 45-47 + Indians, houses, 26 + Indians, hunting, 23-25, 42, 43 + Indians, myths, 80, 45 + Indians, worship, 33-36 + Indians in Santa Catalina, 70 + Indians, mission, 91-105, 127 + Indians, on ranches, 110-112 + Indians, recent history, 206-208 + Irrigation, 245, 252-255 + Isadora, 138 + Isbell, Mrs. Oliver Mann, 280 + Jacal, 26 + Japan, 223-225 + Jesuits in New Spain, 76 + Jiminez, 53 + Jones, Commodore, 136, 137 + Jones, W. C., 182 + Jordan, President, 287 + Juan, 48, 51, 52, 56 + Judah, Theodore D., 196-198. + Kahhoom, 43-45 + Kearny, General Stephen, 145, 148, 149 + Kern River, electric power from, 278 + Kindergartens, 282 + King, Thomas Starr, 192 + Klamath, 37, 38 + Korea, 223 + Kotzebue, Otto von, 132 + Kunzite, 276 + Ladybird, 250 + La Fiesta, 126 + Laguna rancho, battle of, 146 + Laguna rancho, sheep on, 210 + Land question, 182, 183 + La Perouse, 129 + La Posesion, 55 + La Purisima mission, 89 + Larkin, consul, 136, 137,139, 284 + Leland Stanford Junior University, 285-287 + Lemons, 245, 251 + Lick Observatory, 284 + Lollah, 30 + Lopez, Juan, 147 + Lorne, Marquis of, quoted, 262 + Los Angeles, beginnings of, 107, 108. + Los Angeles, captured by Americans, 143 + Los Angeles, church built by Chapman, 125 + Los Angeles, during Civil War, 194 + Los Angeles, in colony days, 213 + Los Angeles, Kern River power, 278 + Los Angeles, old palms in, 144 + Los Angeles, State Normal School, 283 + Lumber, 229-236 + Lummis. Charles F., author, 249 + Macana, 22, 27, 28, 31, 32, 37, 38, 41, 42, 44, 46 + Machado, Agustin, 122 + McKinley, President, 218, 220 + Maestro, 113 + Mahan, Captain, quoted, 220 + Malaga, 256 + Manchuria, 223 + Mandarin orange, 248 + Manila, cable to, 225 + Manila, trade, 67, 74, 77 + Manila Bay, battle, 217 + Marin County, 226 + Mariposa grove, 234 + Marshall, James, 150-153 + Mason, Colonel, 149, 154 + Mayor domo, 110 + Mendocino, Cape, 67 + Mendoza, 72 + Merced River, 160. 111 + Mexican government of California, 124 + Mexico, dispute over Plus Fund, 221 + Mexico, revolt against Spain, 122, 124 + Mexico, war with the United States, 134-135, 140, 174 + Micheltorena, Governor, 137 + Millay, 48 + Mills College, 287 + Mines, modern, 267-277 + Missions, 76-105 + Missions, aid government, 123 + Missions, irrigation, 252 + Missions, orchards, 257, 258 + Missions, schools at, 279 + Missions, secularized, 103-105, 126 + Missions, wheat raising, 237-239 + Modocs, 208 + Monterey, attacked by pirate, 125 + Monterey, captured by Jones, 186, 137 + Monterey, captured by Sloat, 143 + Monterey, mission founded at, 85 + Monterey, presidio of, 87 + Monterey Bay, discovered, 55, 71 + Monterey Bay, Portola at, 81 + Mountains, 18-16 + Muchachas, 110, 112 + Muchchos, 110 + Murphy, Virginia Reed, quoted, 168 + Muscat grape, 258 + Mussel Slough District, 201 + Nahal, 31 + Nakin, 29, 47 + Native Sons of the Golden West, 205 + Navel orange, 248-250 + Nevada City, 274 + Neve, Felipe de, 107 + New Albion, 64 + New Almaden, quicksilver mines, 276 + Nihie, 35, 36 + No-fence law, 211 + Nopal, 29, 32-36, 40, 41, 43 + Normal schools, 283 + Nuts, 257, 261, 262 + Oats, 255 + Ojai, 287 + Olives, 246, 255, 261 + Ollas, 22, 26, 85 + Oranges, 246-254 + Oregon, voyage of the, 216, 217 + Oregon Country, 135 + Ortega, discovers San Francisco bay, 82, 83 + Ortega, rancho attacked, 125 + Otter hunting, 132, 183 + Outdoor life, 17, 18 + Outlaws, 214 + Pacheco, Governor, 205 + Pacific cable, 225 + Pacific Ocean, importance of, 18, 217 + Padres, 51, See Missions + Pala, chapel, 89 + Palou, Francisco, 75, 79, 88, 100 + Panama Canal, 221 + Panocha, 120 + Papas pequenos, 70 + Pasadena, settled, 212 + Pastorel, 97 + Patio, 94 + Patron, 111 + Patrona, 110, 112 + Payuchi, 25-47 + Pepe, 49, 50 + Pesos, 60 + Petroleum, 276 + Peyri, 95, 96 + Philippine trade, 58, 71-78, 201 + Philippines, 217, 218 + Pico, General Andres, 145, 146, 148 + Pinos, Point, 55, 71, 80, 81 + Pius Fund, 76, 220 + Placer mines, 347, 158, 268 + Plaza, 107 + Pocket, in placer mining, 180 + Pomato, 265 + Pomelo, 252 + Pony express, 185-188 + Port Costa, wheat grader at, 243 + Portola, Captain, 77-80, 88-85 + Prairie schooner, 170 + Preserved fruit, 258 + Presidios, 85, 108 + Prunes, 262, 266 + Pueblos, 106-108 + Pumpkin, preserved, 258 + Quartz mining, 270 + Quicksilver, 276 + Railroad, 196-201, 205, 206 + Rainfall, 14, 16 + Raisins, 250, 258-260 + Ramirez, 177 + Ranch life, 109-127 + Rancheros, 121, 122, 183 + Ranches, modern, 262 + Ranchos, 109 + Rebosa, 118 + Reyes, Point, 67, 81-88 + Rezanof, Count, 130, 181 + Rhubarb, 205 + Riley, Governor, 176 + Riverside, founded, 212 + Riverside, oranges at, 247, 249, 250 + Robinson, Alfred, quoted, 257 + Rodeo, 113, 114 + Roosevelt, 222, 224, 225 + Ross, Fort, 131, 133 + Routes to California, 101-172 + Rurik, ship, 182 + Russia, sells Alaska, 215 + Russia, war with Japan, 224 + Russians in California, 131-133 + Sacramento, founded, 133 + Sacramento, pony express at, 186 + Sacramento, railroad begun, 198 + Sacramento valley, 239, 269 + St. John de Anton, 61 + St. Michael orange, 248 + Sal, Point, 130 + Salinas River, 189 + San Agustin, 67 + San Antonio mission, 87 + San Antonio, ship, 79, 83-85 + San Benito County, benitite in, 277 + San Bernardino County, gems in, 276 + San Bruno, 182 + San Buenaventura mission, 89, 99 + San Buenaventura mission, fruit trees, 246, 257 + San Carlos, ship, 79, 88, 287 + San Carlos de Borromeo mission, 85, 86, 100, 120 + San Diego, captured by Americans, 143-146 + San Diego Bay, discovered, 50, 68 + San Diego mission, 80, 92 + San Diego mission, fruit trees, 248 + San Diego mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Diego mission, wheat, 287 + San Diego presidio, 108 + San Diego, ship, 68 + San Fernando mines, 148 + San Fernando mission, 89,90 + San Fernando mission, brandy, 257 + San Fernando mission, fruit trees, 246 + San Francisco, city named, 153 + San Francisco, disorder in (Vigilantes), 184 + San Francisco, during Civil War, 192, 198 + San Francisco, earthquake and fire, 226-228 + San Francisco, gold excitement, 158, 154 + San Francisco, growth after 1848, 156 + San Francisco, in war of 1898, 218 + San Francisco, kindergartens, 282 + San Francisco, pony express at, 186 + San Francisco, Sutro baths, etc., 273, 274 + San Francisco Bay, discovered, 88, 87, 88 + San Francisco mission, 87, 88 + San Francisco presidio, 108 + San Gabriel mission, 87,90 + San Gabriel mission, Chapman at, 125, 120 + San Gabriel mission, mill at, 239 + San Gabriel mission, orchards, 246, 257 + San Gabriel mission, wheat, 237 + San Gabriel River, battle of, 146 + San Joaquin Valley, 239, 247, 269 + San Jose, beginnings of, 107 + San Jose, early school at, 280 + San Jose, earthquake, 226 + San Jose mission, 89, 121 + San Jose mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Jose, ship, 83 + San Juan Bautista mission, 89 + San Juan Capistrano mission, 89, 98 + San Juan Capistrano mission, attacked by pirate, 125 + San Luis Obispo mission, 87 + San Luis Obispo Polytechnic School, 282 + San Luis Rey mission, 89, 95 + San Mateo, 182 + San Miguel, Cabrillo at, 50, 55-57 + San Miguel mission, 89, 123 + San Pasqual, battle, 145, 146 + San Pedro, Bay-of, discovered, 54, 71 + San Rafael mission, 89 + San Salvador, 53 + San Tomas, ship, 68, 71, 72 + Sanchez, Padre, 246 + Sanitary Commission, 192 + Santa Barbara mission, 89 + Santa Barbara mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Barbara presidio, 108 + Santa Catalina, 22 + Santa Catalina, discovered, 53, 68 + Santa Clara College, 288 + Santa Clara mission, 89 + Santa Clara mission, Indian revolt, 102 + Santa Clara mission, orchards, 257 + Santa Clara mission, school at, 280 + Santa Cruz, town founded, 107 + Santa Cruz mission, 80 + Santa Fe, 78 + Santa Inez mission, 89 + Santa Inez mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Rosa, 226, 264, 266 + Saunders, and navel oranges, 249 + Scale, orange, 250, 251 + School taxes, 282 + Schools, early, 113, 279-281 + Schools, modern, 281-288 + Sempervirens, 230, 234 + Senor, 56, 133 + Senora, 213 + Senorita, 213 + Sequoias, 230-235 + Sequoya League, 208 + Serra, Junipero, 75-80, 83-88, 102 + Serra, Junipero, death of, 100 + Serra, Junipero, work of, 91, 92 + Seward, 179, 214, 215 + Shasta, oranges in, 247 + Shasta, Mount, 275 + Sheep Industry, 209-211 + Sherman, Wm. T., 149, 151, 164 + “Shirley,” quoted, 184 + Sholoc, 22-82, 85, 36, 89, 46, 47 + Shumeh, 31 + Sierra Nevada, 14, 16, 56, 100, 282 + Slavery struggle, 175-179, 190 + Sloat, Commodore, 142, 148 + Soil, 16, 18 + Solano mission, 89 + Soledad mission, 89 + Sombrero, 111 + Sonoma, captured, 141 + South Sea, 58 + Southern Pacific Railroad, 201,290 + Spain, colonies, 75, 77 + Spain, colonies, explorations, 48-57, 66-73, 81-83 + Spain, colonies, revolt against, 122, 124 + Spain, colonies, trade laws, 119-122 + Spanish government of California, 77, 122 + Spanish-American War, 215-219 + Stampede of 1849, 161 + Stanford, Leland, gifts for education, 283, 286 + Stanford, Leland, governor, 193 + Stanford, Leland, railroad work, 197-200 + Stanford, Mrs. Leland, 283, 286 + Stanford, Thomas Weldon, 287 + Stanford University, 285-287 + Steamboat, first in California, 155 + Stearns, Don Abel, 137, 147, 148 + Stock raising, 108, 113 + Stockton, Commodore, 143, 146, 148 + Stockton, grain center, 242 + Sugar, 260 + Sultana grape, 239 + Sutro, Adolph, 271-274 + Sutro baths, 273, 274 + Sutter, Captain John, 133, 150-152 + Sutter’s Fort, 133 + Sutter’s mill, 150, 153 + Tamales, 209 + Tangerine orange, 248 + Telegraph, 195 + Texas, 134, 135 + Thatcher School, 287 + Throop Polytechnic School, 287 + Tibbetta, Mrs., and navel oranges, 249 + Titas, 45 + Tomales, 226 + Tortilla, 93,111, 244 + Trade, early, 119-122 + Tres Re yes, ship, 68, 82, 83 + Trist, 175 + Tsuwish, 43, 45 + Tuscon, 206 + Tulare County, products, 247, 276 + Tules, 30, 31, 35, 39, 40 + Tuolumne grove, 284 + Union Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + United States, conquers California, 134-146 + University of California, 283-285 + Valencia late orange, 248 + Vallejo, General, 125 + Vallejo, General, captured, 141 + Vallejo, General, in convention, 177 + Vallejo, General, loses land, 183 + Vallejo, General, quoted, 118, 148 + Vallejo, Senorita Guadalupe, quoted 118, 121, 183, 257 + Vancouver, Captain, 130 + Vancouver, Captain, quoted, 257 + Vanquech, 35 + Vaquero, 111 + Vasques, 214 + Vegetables, 256, 257, 261 + Ventura, Cabrillo at, 54 + Vera Cruz, 74, 75 + Vigilantes, 184, 185 + Vizcaino, Don Sebastian, explorations of, 68-73 + Wash-day expedition, 118 + Webster, Daniel, 176, 179 + Westminster, settled, 212 + Wheat, 237-245, 255 + Wheeler, Benjamin Ide, 284 + White, Stephen M., 288 + Whitman, Walt, quoted, 219 + Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 282 + Willey, Rev. Samuel, 284 + Wolfskill grove, 246 + Yerba Buena, 152 + Yosemite, 238 + Zanja, 94 +</pre> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s History of California, by Helen Elliott Bandini + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + +***** This file should be named 7778-h.htm or 7778-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/7/7/7778/ + + +Text file produced by David A. Schwan + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: History of California + +Author: Helen Elliott Bandini + + +Release Date: March, 2005 [EBook #7778] +This file was first posted on May 16, 2003 +Last Updated: October 31, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + + + + +Text file produced by David A. Schwan + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + + +</pre> + + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA + </h1> + <h2> + By Helen Elliot Bandini + </h2> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h4> + Illustrated By Roy J. Warren <br /> <br /> B. Cal. W. P. 16 + </h4> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PREF"> Preface </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> History of California </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I. — The Land and the Name </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II. — The Story of the Indians </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III. — “The Secret of the Strait” + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter IV. — The Cross of Santa Fe </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V. — Pastoral Days </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI. — The Footsteps of the Stranger + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII. — At the Touch of King Midas + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter VIII. — The Great Stampede </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX. — The Birth of the Golden Baby + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> Chapter X. — The Signal Gun and the Steel + Trail </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI. — That Which Followed After + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII. — “The Groves Were God’s First + Temples” </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> Chapter XIII. — To All that Sow the Time of + Harvest Should be Given </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV. — The Golden Apples of the + Hesperides </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV. — California’s other + Contributions to the World’s Bill of Fare </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter XVI. — The Hidden Treasures of + Mother Earth </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> Chapter XVII. — From La Escuela of Spanish + California to the Schools of the Twentieth </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter XVIII. — Statistics </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> Counties of California </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_LIST"> List of Governors </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_BIBL"> Bibliography </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> Index </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Preface + </h2> + <p> + This book is an attempt to present the history of California in so simple + and interesting a way that children may read it with pleasure. It does not + confine itself to the history of one section or period, but tells the + story of all the principal events from the Indian occupancy through the + Spanish and Mission days, the excitement of the gold discovery, the birth + of the state, down to the latest events of yesterday and to-day. Several + chapters, also, are devoted to the development of California’s great + industries. The work is designed not only for children, but also for older + people interested in the story of California, including the tourists who + visit the state by the thousand every year. + </p> + <p> + For her information the writer has depended almost entirely upon source + material, seldom making use of a secondary work. Her connection with the + old Spanish families has opened to her unusual advantages for the study of + old manuscripts and for the gathering of recollections of historical + events which she has taken from the lips of aged Spanish residents, always + verifying a statement before using it. She has, also, from long + familiarity with the Spanish-speaking people, been able to interpret truly + the life of the Spanish and Mission period. + </p> + <p> + The illustrator of the history, Mr. Roy J. Warren, has made a careful + study of the manuscript, chapter by chapter. He has also been a faithful + student of California and her conditions; his illustrations are, + therefore, in perfect touch with the text and are as true to facts as the + history itself. + </p> + <p> + The thanks of the author are due not only to a host of writers from whom + she has gained valuable assistance, and some of whose names are among + those in the references at the end of the book, but to others to whom + further acknowledgment is due. First of these is Professor H. Morse + Stephens, whose suggestions from the inception of the work until its + completion have been of incalculable advantage, and whose generous offer + to read the proof sheets crowns long months of friendly interest. + Secondly, the author is indebted to the faithful and constant supervision + of her sister, Miss Agnes Elliott of the Los Angeles State Normal School, + without whose wide experience as a teacher of history and economics the + work could never have reached its present plane. The author also offers + her thanks to Mr. Charles F. Lummis, to whom not only she but all students + of California history must ever be indebted; to Mrs. Mary M. Coman, Miss + Isabel Frazee, to the officers of the various state departments, + especially Mr. Lewis E. Aubrey, State Mineralogist, and Mr. Thomas J. Kirk + and his assistant Mr. Job Wood of the educational department; to Miss + Nellie Rust, Librarian of the Pasadena City Library, and her corps of + accommodating and intelligent assistants, and to the librarians of the Los + Angeles City Library and State Normal School. + </p> + <p> + The passages from the Century Magazine quoted in Chapters V-IX are + inserted by express permission of the publishers, the Century Company. + Acknowledgment is due, also, to the publishers of the Overland Monthly for + courtesy in permitting the use of copyright material; and to D. Appleton + & Co. for permission to insert selections from Sherman’s Memoirs. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + History of California + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter I. — The Land and the Name + </h2> + <p> + Once upon a time, about four hundred years ago, there was published in old + Spain a novel which soon became unusually popular. The successful story of + those days was one which caught the fancy of the men, was read by them, + discussed at their gatherings, and often carried with them when they went + to the wars or in search of adventures. This particular story would not + interest readers of to-day save for this passage: “Know that on the right + hand of the Indies there is an island called California, very near the + Terrestrial Paradise, and it is peopled by black women who live after the + fashion of Amazons. This island is the strongest in the world, with its + steep rocks and great cliffs, and there is no metal in the island but + gold.” + </p> + <p> + There is no doubt that some bold explorer, crossing over from Spain to + Mexico and enlisting under the leadership of the gallant Cortez, sailed + the unknown South Sea (the Pacific) and gave to the new land discovered by + one of Cortez’s pilots the name of the golden island in this favorite + story. + </p> + <p> + This land, thought to be an island, is now known to us as the peninsula of + Lower California. The name first appeared in 1542 on the map of Domingo + Castillo, and was soon applied to all the land claimed by Spain from Cape + San Lucas up the coast as far north as 44¼, which was probably a little + higher than any Spanish explorer had ever sailed. + </p> + <p> + “Sir Francis Drake,” says the old chronicle, “was the first Englishman to + sail on the back side of America,” and from that time until now California + has been considered the back door of the country. This was natural because + the first settlements in the United States were along the Atlantic + seacoast. The people who came from England kept their faces turned + eastward, looking to the Mother Country for help, and watching Europe, and + later England herself, as a quarter from which danger might come, as + indeed it did in the war of the Revolution and that of 1812. + </p> + <p> + During the last few years, however, various events have happened to change + this attitude. Through its success in the late Spanish war the United + States gained confidence in its own powers, while the people of the old + world began to realize that the young republic of the western hemisphere, + since it did not hesitate to make war in the interests of humanity, would + not be apt to allow its own rights to be imposed upon. The coming of the + Philippine and Hawaiian Islands under the protection of the United States, + the Russo-Japanese war, which opened the eyes of the world to the strength + of Japan and the wisdom of securing its trade, and the action of the + United States in undertaking the building of the Panama Canal, are + indications that the Pacific will in the future support a commerce the + greatness of which we of to-day cannot estimate. With danger from European + interference no longer pressing closely upon the nation, President + Roosevelt in 1907 took a decided step in recognizing the importance of the + Pacific when he sent to that coast so large a number of the most modern + vessels of the navy. In fact, the nation may now be said to have faced + about, California becoming the front door of our country. + </p> + <p> + It is well, then, to ask ourselves what we know about the state which is + to form part of the reception room of one of the leading nations of the + world. + </p> + <p> + It is a long strip of territory, bounded on one side by the ocean so well + named Pacific, which gives freshness and moisture to the ever-blowing + westerly winds. + </p> + <p> + On the other side is a mountain range, one thousand miles long, with many + of its peaks covered with perpetual snow, holding in its lofty arms + hundreds of ice-cold lakes, its sides timbered with the most wonderful + forests of the world. + </p> + <p> + Few regions of the same size have so great a range of altitude as + California, some portions of its desert lands being below sea level, while + several of its mountains are over ten thousand feet in height. In its + climate, too, there are wide differences as regards heat and cold, + although its coast lands, whether north or south, are much more temperate + than the corresponding latitudes on the Atlantic coast. The difference in + the climate of the northern and southern portions of the state is more + marked in the matter of moisture. Most of the storms of California have + their beginning out in the North Pacific Ocean. They travel in a + southeasterly direction, striking the coast far to the north in summer, + but in winter extending hundreds of miles farther south. During November, + December, January, and February they often reach as far south as the + Mexican line. Then, only, does southern California have rain. The water + necessary for use in the summer time is gained by irrigation from the + mountain streams, which are supplied largely from the melting snows on the + Sierras. + </p> + <p> + The home lands of the state may be divided into two portions: the + beautiful border country rising from the Pacific in alternate valleys and + low rolling foothills to the edge of the Coast Range; and the great + central valley or basin, which lies like a vast pocket almost entirely + encircled by mountains the high Sierras on the east, on the west the low + Coast Range. Two large rivers with their tributaries drain this valley: + the San Joaquin, flowing from the south; and the Sacramento, flowing from + the north. Joining near the center of the state, they cut their way + through the narrow passage, the Strait of Carquinez, and casting their + waters into the beautiful Bay of San Francisco, finally reach the ocean + through the Golden Gate. + </p> + <p> + Down from the Sierras, mighty glaciers carried the soil for this central + valley, grinding and pulverizing it as it was rolled slowly along. Many + years this process continued. The rain, washing the mountain sides, + brought its tribute in the rich soil and decayed vegetation of the higher + region, until a natural seed bed was formed, where there can be raised in + abundance a wonderful variety of plants and trees. In the coast valleys + the soil is alluvial, the fine washing of mountain rocks; this is mixed in + some places with a warmer, firmer loam and in others with a gravelly soil, + which is the best known for orange raising. + </p> + <p> + The state owes much to her mountains, for not only have they contributed + to her fertile soil, but they hold in their rocky slopes the gold and + silver mines which have transformed the whole region from an unknown + wilderness to a land renowned for its riches and beauty. They lift their + lofty peaks high in the air like mighty strongholds, and, shutting out the + desert winds, catch the clouds as they sail in from the ocean, making them + pay heavy tribute in fertilizing rain to the favored land below. + </p> + <p> + The climate, which of all the precious possessions of California is the + most valuable, is best described by Bret Harte in the lines, “Half a year + of clouds and flowers; half a year of dust and sky.” Either half is + enjoyable, for in the summer, or dry season, fogs or delightful westerly + winds soon moderate a heated spell, and in nearly all parts of the state + the nights are cool; while the rainy, or winter season, changes to balmy + springtime as soon as the storm is over. + </p> + <p> + In a large portion of the state the climate is such that the inhabitants + may spend much of their time out of doors. As a rule few duties are + attended to in the house which can possibly be performed in the open air. + It is growing to be more and more the custom to have, in connection with a + Californian home, a tent bedroom where the year round one or more of the + members of the family sleep, with only a wall of canvas between them and + nature. + </p> + <p> + The vacation time is spent largely in summer camps, at either mountain or + seashore, or, quite often, a pleasant party of one or two families live + together, very simply, under the greenwood tree beside some spring or + stream, spending a few weeks in gypsy fashion. While the young folk grow + sturdy and beautiful, the older members of the party become filled with + strength and a joy of living which helps them through the cares and + struggles of the rest of the year. This joy in outdoor life is not, + however, a discovery of to-day. The old Spanish families spent as much + time as possible in the courtyard, the house being deserted save at night. + When upon journeys, men, women, and children slept in the open air. Even + the clothes-washing period was turned into a kind of merrymaking. Whole + families joined together to spend days in the vicinity of some stream, + where they picnicked while the linen was being cleansed in the running + water and dried on the bushes near by. + </p> + <p> + Once before, when the world was younger, there was a land similar to this,—sea-kissed, + mountain-guarded, with such gentle climate and soft skies. Its people, who + also lived much out of doors at peace with nature, became almost perfect + in health and figure, with mental qualities which enabled them to give to + the world the best it has known in literature and art. What the ancient + Greeks were, the people of California may become; but with an advancement + in knowledge and loving-kindness of man toward man which heathen Athens + never knew. + </p> + <p> + What will be the result of this outdoor life cannot yet be told; climate + has always had an active influence in shaping the character and type of a + people. With a climate mild and healthful, yet bracing; with a soil so + rich that the touch of irrigation makes even the sandiest places bloom + with the highest beauty of plant, tree, and vine; with an ocean warm and + gentle, and skies the kindliest in the world,—there is, if we judge + by the lesson history teaches, a promise of a future for California + greater and more noble than the world has yet known. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter II. — The Story of the Indians + </h2> + <p> + “Run, Cleeta, run, the waves will catch you.” Cleeta scudded away, her + naked little body shining like polished mahogany. She was fleet of foot, + but the incoming breakers from the bosom of the great Pacific ran faster + still; and the little Indian girl was caught in its foaming water, rolled + over and over, and cast upon the sandy beach, half choked, yet laughing + with the fun of it. + </p> + <p> + “Foolish Cleeta, you might have been drowned; that was a big wave. What + made you go out so far?” said Gesnip, the elder sister. + </p> + <p> + “I found such a lot of mussels, great big ones, I wish I could go back and + get them,” said the little one, looking anxiously at the water. + </p> + <p> + “The waves are coming in higher and higher and it is growing late,” said + Gesnip; “besides, I have more mussels already than you and I can well + carry. The boys have gone toward the river mouth for clams. They will be + sure to go home the other way.” + </p> + <p> + Cleeta ran to the basket and looked in. + </p> + <p> + “I should think there were too many for us to carry,” she said, as she + tried with all her strength to lift it by the carry straps. “What will you + do with them; throw some back into the water?” + </p> + <p> + “No, I don’t like to do that,” answered her sister, frowning, “for it has + been so long since we have had any. The wind and the waves have been too + high for us to gather any. Look, Cleeta, look; what are those out on the + water? I do believe they are boats.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” said the little girl; “I see what you mean, but boats never go out + so far as that.” + </p> + <p> + “Not tule boats,” said Gesnip, “but big thick one made out of trees; that + is the kind they have at Santa Catalina, the island where uncle lives. It + has been a long time since he came to see us, not since you were four + years old, but mother is always looking for him.” + </p> + <p> + The children gazed earnestly seaward at a fleet of canoes which were + making for the shore. “Do you think it is uncle?” asked Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” replied her sister, uncertainly, “I think it may be.” Then, as the + sunlight struck full on the boats “Yes, yes, I am sure of it, for one is + red, and no on else has a boat of that color; all others are brown.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother said he would bring abalone when he came,” cried Cleeta, dancing + from one foot to the other; “and she said they are better than mussels or + anything else for soup.” + </p> + <p> + “He will bring fish,” said Gesnip, “big shining fish with yellow tails.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother said he would bring big blue ones with hard little seams down + their sides,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + Meantime the boats drew nearer. They were of logs hollowed out until they + were fairly light, but still seeming too clumsy for safe seagoing craft. + In each were several men. One sat in the stern and steered, the others + knelt in pairs, each man helping propel the boat by means of a stick some + four feet long, more like a pole than a paddle, which he worked with great + energy over the gunwale. + </p> + <p> + “I am afraid of them,” said Cleeta, drawing close to her sister. “They do + not look like the people I have seen. Their faces are the color of the + kah-hoom mother weaves in her baskets. There are only three like us, and + they all have such strange clothes.” + </p> + <p> + “Do not be afraid,” said Gesnip. “I see uncle; he is one of the dark ones + like ourselves. The island people have yellow skins.” + </p> + <p> + The time was the year 1540, and the people, the Californians of that day. + The men in the boat were mostly from the island of Santa Catalina, and + were fairer, with more regular features, than the inhabitants of the + mainland, who in southern California were a short, thick-set race, with + thick lips, dark brown skin, coarse black hair, and eyes small and shining + like jet-black beads. They were poorly clothed in winter; in summer a loin + cloth was often all that the men wore, while the children went naked a + large part of the year. + </p> + <p> + With wonderful skill the badly shaped boats were guided safely over the + breakers until their bows touched the sand. Then the men leaped out and, + half wading, half swimming, pulled them from the water and ran them up on + the beach. + </p> + <p> + The little girls drew near and stood quietly by, waiting to be spoken to. + Presently the leading man, who was short, dark, and handsomely dressed in + a suit of sealskin ornamented with abalone shell, turned to them. + </p> + <p> + “Who are these little people?” he asked, in a kind voice. + </p> + <p> + “We are the children of Cuchuma and Macana,” replied Gesnip, working her + toes in and out of the soft sand, too shy to look her uncle in the face. + </p> + <p> + “Children of my sister, Sholoc is glad to see you,” said the chief, laying + his hand gently on Cleeta’s head. “Your mother, is she well?” + </p> + <p> + “She is well and looking for you these many moons,” said Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + The men at once began unloading the boats. The children watched the + process with great interest, Abalone in their shells, a dainty prized then + as well as now, fish, yellowtail and bonito, filled to the brim the large + baskets which the men slung to their backs, carrying them by means of a + strap over the forehead. On their heads they placed ollas, or water jars, + of serpentine from quarries which may be seen in Santa Catalina to-day, + the marks of the tools of workmen of, that time still in the rocks. + </p> + <p> + There were also strings of bits of abalone shell which had been punctured + and then polished, and these Sholoc hung around his neck. + </p> + <p> + “Uncle,” exclaimed Gesnip, touching one of these strings, “how much money! + You have grown rich at Santa Catalina. What will you buy?” + </p> + <p> + “Buy me a wife, perhaps,” was the reply. “I will give two strings for a + good wife. Do you know any worth so much?” + </p> + <p> + “No,” said the girl, stoutly. “I don’t know any worth two whole strings of + abalone. You can get a good wife for much less.” + </p> + <p> + The men, who had succeeded in loading the contents of the boats on their + heads and backs, now marched away, in single file, crossing the heavy sand + dunes slowly, then mounting the range of foothills beyond. The children + followed. Gesnip had her basket bound to her head by a strap round her + forehead; but, though her uncle had taken out part of the contents, it was + a heavy load for the child. + </p> + <p> + As they neared the top of the hill, Sholoc, who was ahead, lifted his hand + and motioned them to stop. + </p> + <p> + “Hush,” he said softly, “elk.” Swiftly the men slipped off their loads and + with bows in hand each one crept flat on his belly over the hill crest. + Gesnip and Cleeta peeped through the high grass. Below them was a wide + plain, dotted with clumps of bushes, and scattered over it they could see + a great herd of elk, whose broad, shining antlers waved above the grass + and bushes upon which they were feeding. + </p> + <p> + “Are those elk too?” asked Cleeta, presently, pointing toward the + foothills at their left. + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied her sister, “I think those are antelope. I like to see them + run. How funny their tails shake. But watch the men; they are going to + shoot.” + </p> + <p> + As she spoke, four of the hunters, who had crept well up toward the game, + rose to their feet, holding their bows horizontally, not perpendicularly. + These weapons, which were made of cedar wood, were about four feet in + length, painted at the ends black or dark blue, the middle, which was + almost two inches broad, being wrapped with elk sinew. The strings also + were of sinew. The quiver which each man carried at his side was made from + the skin of a wild cat or of a coyote. A great hunter like Sholoc might + make his quiver from the tails of lions he had killed. Projecting from the + quiver were the bright-feathered ends of the arrows, which were of reed + and were two or three feet long, with points of bone, flint, or obsidian. + </p> + <p> + The hunters, knowing how hard it was to kill large game, had chosen their + arrows carefully, taking those that had obsidian points. Almost at the + same moment they let fly their shafts. Three elk leaped into the air. One + tumbled over in a somersault which broke one of its antlers, and then lay + dead, shot through the heart by Sholoc. Another took a few leaps, but a + second arrow brought it to its knees. Then it sank slowly over upon its + side; but it struck so fiercely at the hunter who ran up to kill it with + his horn knife that he drew back and shot it again. + </p> + <p> + “Where is the third elk?” asked Cleeta, looking around. + </p> + <p> + “Over there,” said Gesnip, pointing across the plain. + </p> + <p> + “Then they have lost it,” said the child, with disappointment. + </p> + <p> + “No, I think not. It is wounded. I saw the blood on its side,” said the + sister. “See, one of the men is following it, and it is half a mile behind + the herd. I am sure he will get it.” + </p> + <p> + “This has been a lucky day,” said Gesnip. “So much food. Our stomachs will + not ache with hunger for a long time.” + </p> + <p> + “That is because mother wove a game basket to Chinigchinich so he would + send food,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + By the time the party had traveled two miles, Gesnip, with her load, and + Cleeta, whose bare brown legs were growing very tired, lagged behind. + </p> + <p> + “O dear,” said the elder sister, “we shall surely be too late to go into + camp with uncle.” Just then a whoop sounded behind them, and a boy of + thirteen, dressed in a rabbit-skin shirt, carrying a bow in his hand, came + panting up to them. + </p> + <p> + “Payuchi,” said Gesnip, eagerly, “carry my basket for me and I will tell + you some good news.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied Payuchi, shaking his head, “it is a girl’s place to carry + the basket.” + </p> + <p> + “Just this little way, and it is such good news” urged Gesnip. “It will, + make your heart glad.” + </p> + <p> + “Very well, then, tell it quickly,” said the boy, changing the basket of + mussels to his own broad back. + </p> + <p> + “Sholoc has come from Santa Catalina with baskets of abalone and fish, and + with ollas all speckled, and strings of money. He is near the top of the + grade now. Upon hearing the good news the lad darted away at a great pace, + his sisters following as fast as they could. Sholoc and his party had + stopped to rearrange their loads, so the children overtook them at the + head of the trail leading to their home. + </p> + <p> + “Below them was a valley dotted with live oaks, and along the banks of the + stream that ran through it was a thick growth of alders, sycamores, and + willows. At the foot of the trail, near the water, was a cluster of what + looked like low, round straw stacks. No straw stacks were they, however, + but houses, the only kind of homes known in southern California at that + time. + </p> + <p> + “It was the Indian settlement where Gesnip, Cleeta, and Payuchi lived, and + of which their father, Cuchuma, was chief. The jacals, or wigwams, were + made of long willow boughs, driven into the ground closely in a circle, + the ends bent over and tied together with deer sinews. They were covered + with a thatching of grass that, when dry, made them look like straw + stacks. + </p> + <p> + “Sholoc stepped to the-edge of the bluff and gave a long, quavering cry + which could be heard far in the still evening air. Instantly out of the + group of jacals came a crowd of men and boys, who gave answering cries.” + </p> + <p> + “I am glad they have a fire,” said Cleeta, as she saw the big blaze in the + middle of the settlement, “I am so cold.” + </p> + <p> + “Take my hand and let’s run,” said Gesnip, and partly running and partly + sliding, they followed the men of the party, who, notwithstanding their + heavy loads, were trotting down the steep trail. + </p> + <p> + They were met at the foot of the grade by a crowd which surrounded them, + all chattering at once. Sholoc told of the elk, and a number of men + started off on the run to bring in the big game. As the visitors entered + camp, Macana, a kind-faced woman, better dressed than most of her tribe, + came forward. She placed her hand on Sholoc’s shoulder, her face lighting + up with love and happiness. + </p> + <p> + “You are welcome, brother,” she said. + </p> + <p> + “The sight of you is good to my eyes, sister,” an answered Sholoc. That + was all the greeting, although the two loved each other well. Macana took + the basket from Payuchi’s back. + </p> + <p> + “Come,” she called to Gesnip, “and help me wash the mussels.” Then, as she + saw the younger girl shivering as she crouched over the fire, “Cleeta, you + need not be cold any longer; your rabbit skin dress is done. Go into the + jacal and put it on.” Cleeta obeyed with dancing eyes. + </p> + <p> + Gesnip followed her mother to the stream. + </p> + <p> + “Take this,” said Macana, handing her an openwork net or bag, “and hold it + while I empty in some of the mussels. Now lift them up and down in the + water to wash out the sand. That will do; put them into this basket, and I + will give you some more.” + </p> + <p> + Meantime some of the women had taken a dozen or more fish from Sholoc’s + baskets, and removing their entrails with bone knives, wrapped them in + many thicknesses of damp grass and laid them in the hot ashes and coals to + bake. + </p> + <p> + When the mussels were all cleaned, Macana emptied them into a large basket + half filled with water, and threw in a little acorn meal and a handful of + herbs. Then, using two green sticks for tongs, she drew out from among the + coals some smooth gray stones which had become very hot. Brushing these + off with a bunch of tules, she lifted them by means of a green stick + having a loop in the end which fitted round the stones, flinging them one + by one into the basket in which were the mussels and water. Immediately + the water, heated by the stones, began to boil, and when the soup was + ready, she set the basket down beside her own jacal and called her + children to her. Payuchi, Gesnip, Cleeta, and their little four-year-old + brother, Nakin, gathered about the basket, helping themselves with abalone + shells, the small holes of which their mother had plugged with wood. + </p> + <p> + “Isn’t father going to have some first?” asked Payuchi, before they began + the meal. + </p> + <p> + “Not this time; he will eat with Sholoc and the men when the fish are + ready,” replied his mother. + </p> + <p> + “This is good soup,” said Gesnip. “I am glad I worked hard before the + water came up. But, Payuchi, didn’t you and Nopal get any clams?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” said her brother, making a face; he had dipped down where the + stones were hottest and the soup thickest, and had taken a mouthful that + burned him. “Yes, we got some clams, more than I could carry; but Nopal + was running races with the other boys and would not come, so I left him to + bring them. He will lose his fish dinner if he doesn’t hurry.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother,” said Cleeta, “may we stay up to the fish bake?” + </p> + <p> + “No,” answered her mother. “You and Nakin must go to bed, but I will save + some for your breakfast. You are tired, Cleeta.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I am tired,” said the little girl, leaning her head against her + mother’s shoulder, “but I am warm in my rabbit-skin dress. We all have + warm dresses now. Please tell me a good-night story,” she begged. “We have + been good and brought in much food.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, tell us how the hawk and coyote made the sun,” said Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Very well,” said the mother, “only you must be quite still.” + </p> + <p> + “It was in the beginning of all things, and a bowl of darkness, blacker + than the pitch lining of our water basket, covered the earth. Man, when he + would go abroad, fell against man, against trees, against wild animals, + even against Lollah, the bear, who would, in turn, hug the unhappy one to + death. Birds flying in the air came together and fell struggling to the + earth. All was confusion.” + </p> + <p> + “Once the hawk, by chance, flew in the face of the coyote. Instead of + fighting about it as naughty children might, they, like people of good + manners, apologized many times. Then they talked over the unhappy state of + things and determined to remedy the evil. The coyote first gathered a + great heap of dried tules, rolled them together into a ball, and gave them + to the hawk, with some pieces of flint. The hawk, taking them in his + talons, flew straight up into the sky, where he struck fire with his + flints, lit the ball of reeds, and left it there whirling along with a + bright yellow light, as it continues to whirl to-day; for it, children, is + our sun, ruler of the day.” + </p> + <p> + “The hawk next flew back for another ball to rule the night, but the + coyote had no tule gathered, and the hawk hurried him so that some damp + stems were mixed in. The hawk flew with this ball into the sky and set it + afire but because of the green tules it burned with only a dim light; and + this, children, is our moon, ruler of the night.” + </p> + <p> + “That is a fine story,” said Payuchi. “I am glad I did not live when there + was no light.” + </p> + <p> + “Tell us how the coyote danced with the star,” said Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied the mother, “another time we shall see. Now I shall sing to + coax sleep to tired eyes, and the little ones will go to bed.” And this + was what she sang: “Pah-high-nui-veve, veve, veve, shumeh, veve, veve, + veve, shumeh, Pah-high-nui-veve,” and so on, repeating these words over + and over until Cleeta and Nakin were sound asleep. Then she laid them on + their tule mats, which were spread on the floor of the jacal, where baby + Nahal, close wrapped in his cocoon-shaped cradle, had been a long time + sleeping. + </p> + <p> + “Mother,” said Gesnip, coming into the jacal, “they have brought in the + elk. Don’t you want something from them?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” replied Macana, “I will go and see about it. I want one of the + skins to make your father a warm hunting dress.” + </p> + <p> + The Indians who had gone after the elk had skinned and cut them up where + they lay, as they were so large that the burden had to be distributed + among a number of carriers. Macana found Sholoc busy portioning out parts + of the elk. As he had a fine seal-skin suit himself, he gladly gave her + the skin of the deer which he had shot. + </p> + <p> + “Isn’t that a big one?” said Payuchi. “It will make father a fine hunting + suit, it is so thick.” Gesnip was loaded down with some of the best cuts + of the meat to take to her father’s jacal. Cuchuma himself began removing + the tendons from the legs, to cure for bowstrings, and to wrap a new bow + he was going to make. + </p> + <p> + “Here, Nopal,” said Sholoc to his oldest nephew, a lad of fifteen, “I will + give you a piece of the antler and you can grind it down and make yourself + a hunting knife. It is time you ceased to play and became a hunter. I had + killed much game when I was your age.” + </p> + <p> + “Will you give me some of the brains that I may finish tanning a deerskin? + I have been waiting to finish it until I could get some brains, but it has + been a long time since any one has brought in big game,” said Macana. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” answered Sholoc, “you shall have them. Payuchi, hand me my elk-horn + ax so that I can split open the head, and you can take the brains to the + jacal.” Soon not a piece of meat, a bit of skin, tendon, or bone, was + left. All was put to use by these people of the forest. And now the feast + was ready. The women had roasted many pieces of elk’s meat over the coals. + The fish had been taken from under the hot ashes, the half burned grass + removed from around them, and the fish broken into pieces and put in flat + baskets shaped like platters. There were also pieces of elk meat and cakes + of acorn meal baked on hot stones. + </p> + <p> + As was the custom with the Indians, the men were served first. Payuchi + watched anxiously as his father and the other men took large helpings from + the baskets. + </p> + <p> + “Do you think there will be enough for us to have any?” he asked Gesnip. + “I am so hungry and they are eating so much. If I were a man, I should + remember about the women and children.” + </p> + <p> + “No; you wouldn’t if you were a man; men never do,” answered Gesnip. “But + you need not worry, there is plenty. Mother said there would be some left + for breakfast.” + </p> + <p> + “Wait for that till I get through,” said Payuchi, laughing. After all had + eaten a hearty meal, more than for many weeks they had been able to have + at any one time, the tired women each gathered her children together and + took them to her own jacal, leaving the men sitting around the camp fire. + Payuchi, who tumbled to sleep as soon as his head touched his sleeping + mat, was wakened by some one pulling his rabbit-skin coat, which he wore + nights as well as days. + </p> + <p> + “Payuchi,” said a voice, “wake up.” + </p> + <p> + “I have not been asleep,” answered the boy, stoutly, as he rubbed his eyes + to get them open. “What do you want, Nopal?” for he saw his brother + speaking to him. + </p> + <p> + “Hush, do not waken mother,” said Nopal, speaking very softly. “I know + that the men will make an offering to Chinigchinich. I am going to watch + them. We are old enough, at least I am. Do you want to come?” + </p> + <p> + A star shone in at the top of the jacal, and Payuchi gazed up at it, + blinking, while he pulled his thoughts together. + </p> + <p> + “They will punish us if they find us out,” said he at length. + </p> + <p> + “But we won’t let them find us out, stupid one,” replied his brother, + impatiently. + </p> + <p> + “What if Chinigchinich should be angry with us? He does not like to have + children in the ceremony of the offering,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “I will give him my humming-bird skin, and you shall give him your + mountain quail head; then he will be pleased with us,” answered Nopal. + </p> + <p> + “All right,” said the boy; “I do not like very well to part with that + quail head, but perhaps it is a good thing to do.” + </p> + <p> + Creeping softly from the jacal, the boys crouched in the shade of a willow + bush and watched the men by the camp fire. + </p> + <p> + “They are standing up. They are just going,” said Payuchi, “and every one + has something in his hand. Father has two bows; I wonder why.” + </p> + <p> + “I think he is going to make an offering of the new bow to Chinigchinich,” + answered Nopal. “I thought he was going to keep it and give me his old + one,” he added, with some disappointment. + </p> + <p> + “What are they offering for?” asked the young brother. + </p> + <p> + “For rain,” said Nopal. “See, they are going now.” In single file the men + walked swiftly away, stepping so softly that not a twig cracked. + </p> + <p> + After a little the boys followed, slipping from bush to bush that they + might not be discovered. They had walked about a mile, when they came to + thicker woods with bigger trees and saw a light ahead of them. Nopal laid + his hand on his brother to stop him. Peeping through a scrub-oak bush, + they looked down into a little glade arched over with great live oaks. In + the middle of the opening they saw, by the light of a low fire, a small + cone-shaped hut. Beside it stood a gigantic figure painted and adorned + with shells, feathers, rattlesnake skins, and necklaces of bone. + </p> + <p> + “Come back,” whispered Payuchi, his teeth chattering with fear. “It is + Chinigchinich himself; he will see us, and we shall die.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” answered Nopal, “it is only Nihie, the medicine man. He looks so + tall because of his headdress. It is made of framework of dried tules + covered with feathers and fish bladders. I saw it one day in his jacal, + and it is as tall as I am. That jacal beside him is the vanquech [temple], + and I think there is something awful there. You see if there isn’t. Hush, + now! Squat down. Here they come.” + </p> + <p> + In a procession the men came into the opening, and, stalking solemnly by, + each cast down at the door of the temple an offering of some object which + he prized. Cuchuma gave a bone knife which he greatly valued, and a + handsome new bow. Sholoc gave a speckled green stone olla from Santa + Catalina and a small string of money; but these were chiefs’ offerings. + The other gifts were simpler—shells, acorn meal, baskets, birds’ + skins, but always something for which the owner cared. + </p> + <p> + At last the medicine man, satisfied with the things offered which became + his own when the ceremony was over, stooped and drew forth the sacred + emblem from the temple. It was not even an idol, only a fetich composed of + a sack made from the skin of a coyote, the head carefully preserved and + stuffed, while the body was dressed smooth of hair and adorned with + hanging shells and tufts of birds’ feathers. A bundle of arrows protruded + from the open mouth, giving it a fierce appearance. While Nihie held it + up, the men circled round once again, this time more rapidly, and as they + passed the medicine man, each gave a spring into the air, shooting an + arrow upward with all his force. When the last man had disappeared under + the trees, Nihie replaced the skin in the temple, put out the fire, and, + singing a kind of chant, he led the men back to their jacals. The boys + stood up. Payuchi shivered and drew a long breath. + </p> + <p> + “We must get away now; Nihie will be back soon to get the offerings,” said + Nopal. + </p> + <p> + “But first we must offer our gifts, or Chinigchinich will be angry,” said + Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “Come on, then,” said the brother; so, stealing softly down the hillside, + the boys cast their offerings on the pile in front of the hut and ran + away, taking a roundabout path home, that they might not meet the medicine + man returning. + </p> + <p> + “We must hurry to get in the jacal before father,” said Nopal, suddenly. + “I didn’t think of that. Run, Payuchi, run faster.” But they were in time + after all, and were stretched out on their mats some minutes before their + father and Sholoc came in. + </p> + <p> + Macana’s first duty in the morning was to attend to the baby, whose + wide-open black eyes gave the only sign that it was awake. She unfastened + it from the basket and unwrapped it, rubbing the little body over with its + morning bath of grease until the firm skin shone as if varnished. When it + had nursed and was comfortable, she put the little one back in its cradle + basket, which she leaned up against the side of the hut, where the little + prisoner might see all that was going on. + </p> + <p> + Instead of the usual breakfast of acorn meal mush, the children had a + plentiful meal of fish which their mother had saved from the feast of the + night before. + </p> + <p> + “I didn’t think any one could catch so many fish as uncle brought last + night,” said Cleeta, as she helped herself to a piece of yellowtail. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, they do, though,” said Payuchi. “Last night, after supper, uncle + told the men some fine stories. I think he has been in places which none + of our people have ever seen. + </p> + <p> + “He told us that once he journeyed many moons toward the land of snow and + ice until he came to the country of the Klamath tribe, where he stayed a + long time. He said that when they fish they drive posts made of young + trees into the bottom of the river and then weave willow boughs in and out + until there is a wall of posts and boughs clear across the stream. Then + the big red fish come up from the great water into the river. They come, + uncle said, so many no one can count them, and the ones behind push + against those in front until they are all crowded against the wall, and + then the Klamath men catch them with spears and nets until there is food + enough for all, and many fish to dry.” + </p> + <p> + “I should like to see that. What else did he tell you?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “He said he visited one place where the great salt water comes into the + land and is so big it takes many days to journey round it. Here the people + eat fish, clams, and mussels instead of acorns and roots. On the shore + they have their feasting ground where they go to eat and dance and tell + big stories, and; sometimes to make an offering. So many people go there, + uncle said, that the shells they have left make a hill, a hill just of + shells that is many steps high. From the top of it one may look over the + water, which is so long no eye can see the end of it.” + </p> + <p> + “What else did you hear?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing more, for mother called me,” replied her brother. “I should like + to hear more of those stories, though.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother,” asked Gesnip, as she finished her breakfast, “when am I to begin + to braid mats for the new jacal?” + </p> + <p> + “Soon,” replied Macana. “This morning you and Payuchi must gather the + tule. Have a large pile when I come home.” So saying, the mother strapped + the baby on her back and, accompanied by the younger children, went out + with other women of the tribe to gather the white acorns from the oaks on + the highlands pear the mountains. + </p> + <p> + The December wind, from the snow-capped peaks, chilled and cut with its + icy breath their scantily clothed bodies, but for hours they worked + picking up the scattered nuts. The labors of an Indian mother ceased only + while she slept. + </p> + <p> + “Come, Payuchi,” said Gesnip, “let us go down to the river and get tules.” + </p> + <p> + “All right,” replied the boy, readily. “Sholoc is going down too. He is + going to show the men how to make log canoes like his instead of the tule + canoes our people use. But I like the tule canoes, because I can use my + feet for paddles.” When they reached the river, which was really a lagoon + or arm of the sea, the children stopped to watch the men at work. A large + log, washed down from the mountains by some flood, lay on the bank. It was + good hard wood, and the children saw that it was smoking in three places. + </p> + <p> + “This is going to make two canoes, but neither one will be so big, as + uncle’s,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “How can it make two canoes if they burn it up?” asked his sister. + </p> + <p> + “You are stupid, Gesnip,” said her brother. “Don’t you see they are + burning it to separate it into two parts? Then they will burn each log + into the shape of a boat, finishing it up with axes of bone or horn. Uncle + told me how they did it.” + </p> + <p> + “Why have they put the green bark on the top of the log?” + </p> + <p> + “I think it is to keep it from burning along the edge; don’t you see? And + then there are wider pieces to protect it at the ends. See how they watch + the fire and beat it out in one place and then in another.” + </p> + <p> + “Why does it burn so fast?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Because they have daubed it with pitch. Can’t you smell it?” said the + boy, sniffing. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I can smell it,” replied his sister. “But come now and help me + gather tules. Father is going to burn down our house and build a new one + for winter, and I must make a tule rug for each one of you for beds in the + new home. It will take a great many tule stems.” + </p> + <p> + “It is cold to wade,” said Payuchi, stepping into the water at the edge of + the river. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” answered Gesnip, “I don’t like to gather tules in winter.” + </p> + <p> + The children pulled up the long rough stems one by one until they had a + large pile. + </p> + <p> + “I think we have enough,” said Payuchi, after they had been working about + two hours. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I think so too,” said his sister. “My back aches, my hands are sore, + and my feet are so cold.” Payuchi brought some wild grapevine with which + he tied the tule into two bundles, fastening the larger upon his sister’s + back; for with his people the women and girls were the burden bearers, and + a grown Indian would not do any work that his wife could possibly do for + him. + </p> + <p> + After they had traveled a little way on the homeward path, Gesnip stopped. + </p> + <p> + “Don’t go so fast, Payuchi,” she begged. “This bundle is so large it + nearly tumbles me over.” + </p> + <p> + “Just hurry a little until we get to the foot of the hill yonder where + Nopal and the other big boys are playing, and you can rest while I watch + the game,” answered her brother. Gesnip struggled on, bending under the + weight and size of her awkward burden until, with a sigh of relief, she + seated herself on a stone to rest while Payuchi, throwing his bundle on + the ground, stood up to watch the boys. + </p> + <p> + “See, Nopal is It,” he said. Nopal, coming forward, stooped low and rolled + a hoop along the ground, which the boys had pounded smooth and hard for + the game. + </p> + <p> + As the hoop rolled another boy stepped forward and tried to throw a stick + through it, but failed. Then all the players pointed their fingers at him + and grunted in scorn. Again Nopal rolled the hoop, and this time the boy + threw through the ring, and all the boys, and Payuchi too, gave whoops of + delight. + </p> + <p> + The children watched the game until Gesnip said that they must go on, for + their mother would be home and want them. When they returned, Macana was + warming herself by the fire where the men were sitting. + </p> + <p> + “See our tule; is it not a great deal?” asked the children, showing their + bundles. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, but not enough,” replied their mother. “You will have to go out + another day.” + </p> + <p> + The women, who had been working all the morning gathering acorns, now + squatted near the fire and began grinding up the nuts which had been + already dried. + </p> + <p> + “Gesnip,” called her mother, “bring me the grinding stones.” The girl went + to the jacal and brought two stones, one a heavy bowlder with a hollow in + its top, which had been made partly by stone axes, but more by use; the + other stone fitted into this hollow. + </p> + <p> + “Now bring me the basket of roasted grasshoppers,” said the mother. Taking + a handful of grasshoppers, Macana put them into the hollow in the larger + stone, and with the smaller stone rubbed them to a coarse powder. This + powder she put into a small basket which Gesnip brought her. + </p> + <p> + “I am glad we caught the grasshoppers. They taste better than acorn meal + mush,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “How many grasshoppers there are in the fall,” said Gesnip, “and so many + rabbits, too.” + </p> + <p> + “We had such a good time at the rabbit drive,” said Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “And such a big feast afterwards, nearly as good as last night,” said + Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Tell me about the rabbit drive,” said Cleeta, squatting down beside the + children in front of the fire. + </p> + <p> + “It was in the big wash up the river toward the mountains,” began Payuchi. + “You have seen the rabbits running to hide in a bunch of grass and cactus + when you go with mother to the mountains for acorns, haven’t you?” + </p> + <p> + Cleeta nodded. “Not this winter, though. We saw only two to-day,” she + said. + </p> + <p> + “That is because of the drive,” said her brother. “It was in the + afternoon, with the wind blowing from the ocean, and all the men who could + shoot best with bow and arrow, or throw the spear well, stood on the other + side of the wash.” + </p> + <p> + “Father was there,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, and many others,” said Payuchi. “Then some of the men and all of us + boys got green branches of trees and came down on this side of the wash. + Nopal started the fire. It burned along in the grass slowly at first, and + when it came too near the jacals on one side or the woods on the other, we + would beat it out with the branches, but soon it ran before the wind into + the cactus and bunch grass. The rabbits were frightened out and ran from + the fire as fast as they could, and in a few minutes they were right at + the feet of father and the other hunters. They killed forty before the + smoke made them run too.” + </p> + <p> + “My dress was made of their skin,” said the little girl, smoothing her + gown lovingly. “It keeps me so warm.” + </p> + <p> + “Did the fire burn long?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “No, we beat it out, or it would have gone up the wash into the live oaks; + then we boys should have been well punished for our carelessness.” + </p> + <p> + Here their mother called to them. + </p> + <p> + “Payuchi,” she said, “put away this basket of grasshopper meal. And, + Gesnip, go to the jacal and find me the coils for basket weaving.” + </p> + <p> + “What shall I bring?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “The large bundle of chippa that is soaking in a basket, and the big coil + of yellow kah-hoom and the little one of black tsuwish which are hanging + up, and bring me my needle and bone awl.” + </p> + <p> + “Do you want the coil of millay?” + </p> + <p> + “No, I shall need no red to-day.” + </p> + <p> + Squatted on the ground, where she could feel the warmth of the fire on her + back, but where the heat could not dry her basket materials, Macana began + her work. Taking a dripping chippa, or willow bough, from the basket where + it had been soaking, she dried it on leaves and wound it tightly in a + close coil the size of her thumbnail, then spatted it together until it + seemed no longer a cord, but a solid piece of wood. Thus she made the base + of her basket; then, threading her needle, which was but a horny cactus + stem set in a head of hardened pitch, she stitched in and out over the + upper and under the lower layer, drawing her thread firmly each time. The + thread was the creamy, satin-like kah-hoom. Round and round she coiled the + chippa, the butt of one piece overlapping the tip of another, while with + her needle she covered all with the smoothly drawn kah-hoom. After a time + she laid the kah-hoom aside for a stitch or two of the black root of the + tule, called tsuwish. + </p> + <p> + The children had watched the starting of the basket, then had begun a game + of match, with white and black pebbles. After a time Gesnip, looking up + from her play, exclaimed, as she saw the black diamond pattern the weaver + was making:— + </p> + <p> + “Mother, why are you weaving a rattlesnake basket?” + </p> + <p> + “I am making it to please Chinigchinich that he may smile upon me and + guard you, children, and Cuchuma from the bite of the rattlesnake. There + are so many of them here this year, and I fear for you.” + </p> + <p> + “Thank you, mother,” said Gesnip. “If Titas’s mother had made a black + diamond basket, maybe the snake would not have bitten her.” + </p> + <p> + “I think Chinigchinich does smile upon you,” said Payuchi, “for when we + were so hungry in the month of roots [October] you wove him the hunting + basket with the pattern of deer’s antlers, trimmed with quail feathers, + and see how much food we have had: first the rabbits, then the + grasshoppers, and now the fish and elk.” + </p> + <p> + “While you work tell us how the first baby basket was made,” begged + Cleeta. The mother nodded; and as she wound and pressed closely the moist + chippa, and the cactus needle flew in and out with the creamy kah-hoom or + the black tsuwish, she told the story. + </p> + <p> + “When the mother of all made the basket for the first man child, she used + a rainbow for the wood of the back of the basket, with stars woven in each + side, and straight lightning down the middle in front. Sunbeams shining on + a far-away rain storm formed the fringe in front, where we use strips of + buckskin, and the carry straps were brightest sunbeams.” + </p> + <p> + “Mother, you left out that the baby was wrapped in a soft purple cloud + from the mountains,” said Cleeta. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, in a purple cloud of evening, wrapped so he could not move leg or + arm, but would grow straight and beautiful,” said the mother. + </p> + <p> + For a long while the children watched in silence the patient fingers at + their work; then Gesnip asked, “Is it true, mother, that when you were a + little child your father and mother and many of your tribe died of + hunger?” + </p> + <p> + “It is true,” replied Macana, sadly, “but who told you?” + </p> + <p> + “Old Cotopacnic, but I thought it was one of his dreams. Why were you all + so hungry?” asked the girl. + </p> + <p> + “Because the rain failed for three seasons. After a time there was no + grass, no acorns, the rabbits and deer died or wandered away, the streams + dried up so there were no fish, the ground became so dry that there were + no more grubs or worms of any kind, no grasshoppers. There was nothing to + eat but roots. Nearly all our tribe died, and many other people, too.” + </p> + <p> + “How did you live?” asked Payuchi. + </p> + <p> + “My aunt had married a chief whose home was in a rich valley in the + mountains where it is always green. She came down to see my mother, and + when she found how hard it was to get food for us all, she took me by the + hand and tumbled Sholoc who was smaller than little Nakin, into her great + seed basket and took us off to the mountains until times should grow + better; but the rains did not come until it was too late. I stayed with + her until I married your father. Sholoc became a great hunter, then chief + of the people of Santa Catalina, where he became a great fisherman also.” + </p> + <p> + The children looked grave. + </p> + <p> + “Do you think such bad seasons can ever come again?” asked Gesnip. + </p> + <p> + “Who can tell?” replied the mother, with a sigh. “Last year was very bad + and there is little rain yet this year. That is why the men offered gifts + to Chinigchinich last night.” + </p> + <p> + “Nobody must take me away from you to keep me from being hungry,” said + gentle Cleeta, hiding her face in her mother’s lap. + </p> + <p> + “If I were Chinigchinich,” said Payuchi, “I would not let so many people + die, just because they needed a little more rain. I would not be that kind + of a god.” + </p> + <p> + “Hush, my child,” said the mother, sternly. “He will hear and punish you. + If it is our fate, we must bend to it.” + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter III. — “The Secret of the Strait” + </h2> + <p> + Cabrillo + </p> + <p> + One afternoon in September, in the year 1542, two broad, clumsy ships, + each with the flag of Spain flying above her many sails, were beating + their way up the coast of southern California. All day the vessels had + been wallowing in the choppy seas, driven about by contrary winds. At last + the prow of the leading ship was turned toward shore, where there seemed + to be an opening that might lead to a good harbor. At the bow of the ship + stood the master of the expedition, the tanned, keen-faced captain, Juan + Rodriguez Cabrillo. He was earnestly watching the land before him, which + was still some distance away. + </p> + <p> + “Come hither, Juan,” he called to a sturdy lad, about sixteen, who, with + an Indian boy, brought from Mexico as interpreter, was also eagerly + looking landward. “Your eyes should be better than mine. Think you there + is a harbor beyond that point?” + </p> + <p> + “It surely seems so to me, sir,” answered the boy; “and Pepe, whose eyes, + you know, are keener than ours, says that he can plainly see the + entrance.” + </p> + <p> + “I trust he is right; for this thickening weather promises a storm, and a + safe harbor would be a gift of God to us weary ones this night,” said the + captain, with a sigh. + </p> + <p> + Since the fair June day when they had sailed out of the harbor on the west + shore of Mexico, they had been following first up the coast line of the + Peninsula, then of Upper California. No maps or charts of the region + showing where lay good harbors or dangerous rocks, could be found in + Cabrillo’s cabin. Instead, there were maps of this South Sea which + pictured terrible dangers for mariners—great whirlpools which could + suck down whole fleets of vessels, and immense waterfalls, where it was + thought the whole ocean poured off the end of the land into space. A brave + man was Captain Cabrillo, for, half believing these stories, he yet sailed + steadily on, determined, no matter what happened to himself, to do his + duty to the king under whose flag he sailed, and to the viceroy of Mexico, + whose funds had furnished the expedition. + </p> + <p> + California has ever been noted for its brave men, but none have been more + courageous than this explorer, who was probably the first white man to set + his foot upon its soil. As the ship approached land the crew became + silent, every eye being turned anxiously to the opening of the passage + which appeared before them. The vessel, driven by the stiff breeze, rushed + on, almost touching the rock at one point. Then, caught by a favorable + current, it swept into mid-channel, where it moved rapidly forward, until + at length it rode safely in the harbor now known as San Diego Bay. + </p> + <p> + “It is a good port and well inclosed,” said Juan Cabrillo, with great + satisfaction, gazing out upon the broad sheet of quiet water. “We will + name it for our good San Miguel, to whom our prayers for a safe anchorage + were offered this morning.” Then, when the two ships were riding at + anchor, the commander ordered out the boats. + </p> + <p> + “We will see what kind of people these are, dodging behind the bushes + yonder,” said he. As the Spaniards drew near shore they could see many + fleeing figures. + </p> + <p> + “What a pity they are so afraid,” said Cabrillo. “If we are to learn + anything of the country, we must teach them that we mean them no harm.” + </p> + <p> + “Master,” said Pepe, “there are three of them hiding behind those bushes.” + </p> + <p> + “Is it so, lad? Then go you up to them. They will not fear you.” So the + Indian boy walked slowly forward, holding out his hands with his palms + upward, which not only let the natives see that he was unarmed, but in the + sign language meant peace and friendship. As he drew near to them an old + man and two younger ones, dressed in scanty shirts of rabbit-skins, came + from their hiding places and began to talk to Pepe, but, though they also + were Indians, they did not speak his language. Some of their words were + evidently similar to his, and by these and the help of signs he partly + understood what they said. Presently he returned to the group on shore. + </p> + <p> + “They say there are Spaniards back in the country a few days’ journey from + here.” + </p> + <p> + “Spaniards? That is impossible,” returned Cabrillo. + </p> + <p> + “They say that they are bearded, wear clothes like yours, and have white + faces,” answered the boy, simply. + </p> + <p> + “They must be mistaken, or perhaps you did not understand them fully,” + said the master. “At another time we will question them further. Now, give + them this present of beads and hurry back, for it is late.” + </p> + <p> + That night some of the men from the ships went on shore to fish. While + they were drawing their nets, the Indians stole up softly and discharged + their arrows, wounding three. The boy Juan had the most serious injury, an + arrow being so deeply embedded in his shoulder that it could not be + removed until they reached the ship. There the padre, who, like most + priests of that day, knew something of surgery, drew it out, and bound up + the shoulder in soothing balsams. + </p> + <p> + On the second day of their stay in port the wind began to blow from the + southwest; the waves grew rough, and Cabrillo ordered the ships to be made + ready for the tempest, which soon became violent. Meantime, Juan lay + suffering in his hammock, which swung backward and forward with the motion + of the ship. Suddenly he heard a step beside him and felt a cool hand on + his forehead. + </p> + <p> + “How goes it, lad?” said Cabrillo, for it was the master himself. “You are + suffering in a good cause. Have courage; you will soon be well. Remember, + you have helped to discover a harbor, the like of which is seldom found. + This storm is a severe one. I can hear the surf booming on the farther + shore, yet our ship shows no strain on the anchor. Good harbor though it + is, I am sorely disappointed, as I had hoped it was the entrance to the + strait, the strait that seems a phantom flying before us as we go, drawing + us onward to we know not what.” The sadness of the captain’s voice + troubled Juan. + </p> + <p> + “Master,” he asked earnestly, “what is the strait? I hear of it often, yet + no one can tell me what it is, or where it lies.” + </p> + <p> + “Because no one knows,” answered the captain, rising. “I am needed on + deck, but I will send old Tomas to tell you its strange story.” + </p> + <p> + “The secret of the strait,” said old Tomas, as he seated himself beside + Juan, “has led many men to gallant deeds and also many a man to a gallant + death. Always, since as a lad I first went to sea, the merchants of many + lands have been seeking a safe and speedy way of reaching the Indies, + where are found such foods, spices, and jewels as one sees nowhere else in + the world. + </p> + <p> + “My father and grandfather used to travel with caravans overland to and + from India. There are several routes, each controlled by some one of the + great Italian cities, but all have somewhere to cross the desert, where + the trains are often robbed by wild tribes. Sometimes, as they come nearer + home, they are held by the Turks for heavy tribute, with such loss that + the merchants have been forced to turn to the sea in hopes that a better + way might be found. It was while searching for this route that Columbus + discovered the new world, and when the news of his success was brought + back to Europe there was great rejoicing, because it was thought that he + had reached some part of India. Magellan’s voyage, however, destroyed + these hopes. He sailed for months down the eastern shore of the new land, + and discovered, far away to the south, a strait through which he reached + the great South Sea, but then he still sailed on for nearly a year before + he came to the Spice Islands and Asia. + </p> + <p> + “Now every one believes that somewhere through this land to the north of + us there is a wide, deep sea passage from the North Sea [Atlantic] to the + South Sea [Pacific], by which ships may speedily reach India. This passage + is called the Strait of Anian. + </p> + <p> + “The great captain, Hernando Cortez, the conqueror of New Spain [Mexico] + spent many years and a large fortune seeking for this water way. Four + different expeditions he sent out to explore this coast: most of them at + his own cost. In the second one his pilot, Jiminez, led a mutiny, murdered + his captain, and afterward discovered, accidentally, the southern point of + this land we are now exploring. But it was not the good fortune of the + noble Cortez to discover the strait. Our captain is the next to take up + the search, and may God send him success.” + </p> + <p> + After a stay of nearly a week in the bay of San Diego, Cabrillo continued + his voyage up the coast, sailing by day, anchoring at night. He touched at + an island which he named San Salvador, but which we know as Santa + Catalina. Here, by his kind and generous treatment, he won the friendship + of the natives. From this beautiful spot, he sailed, one Sunday morning, + to the mainland. Entering the Bay of San Pedro, he found it enveloped in + smoke. + </p> + <p> + “It seems a fair port,” said the commander, “but go no farther inland. + Drop anchor while we can see our way. We may well call this the Bay of + Smokes.” The fires, they found, had been started by the Indians to drive + the rabbits from shelter, so they could be the more easily killed. + </p> + <p> + Sailing on, the ships anchored off a thickly settled valley, where the + town of Ventura now lies. Here, on October 12, 1542, Cabrillo and his + company went on shore and took solemn possession of the land in the name + of the king of Spain and the viceroy of Mexico. Here, and along the + channel, the people were better-looking, more comfortably lodged and + clothed, than those farther south. They also had good canoes, which the + natives of the lower coast did not possess. Pushing on, the explorer saw + and noted the channel islands and rounded Point Conception. From here he + was driven back by contrary winds, and toward nightfall of a stormy day + found himself near the little island now named San Miguel. + </p> + <p> + “We will call it La Posesion and take it for our own,” said Cabrillo, + “for, if we can but make it, there seems to be a good harbor here.” The + storm, however, grew more severe. The sea rose until occasionally the + waves swept over the smaller ship, which was without a deck. Here occurred + a most unhappy accident. Something about the ship, a spar probably, + loosened by the storm, fell and struck the brave commander, breaking his + arm. Although severely injured, he would not have the wounds dressed + until, after a long period of anxiety, the two ships entered in safety the + little harbor of San Miguel. + </p> + <p> + Here, stormbound, they remained for a week. When they ventured forth, they + again met with high winds and bad weather. Cabrillo, who in spite of + discouragements never forgot his search for the strait, pushed close + inshore and kept much of the time on deck looking for some signs of a + river or passage. One morning at daybreak, after a rough night, they found + themselves drifting in an open bay. + </p> + <p> + “It is a fine roadstead,” said Cabrillo, coming on deck, as the sun rose + over the pine-covered hills. “Were it smaller, it would be a welcome + harbor. We will name it from those majestic trees La Bahia de Pinos, and + yonder long projection we will call the Cabo de Pinos.” That bay is now + called Monterey, but the cape still bears the name given it by this first + explorer. + </p> + <p> + Anchoring in forty-five fathoms of water, they tried to go on shore, in + order to take possession of the land, but the sea was so rough that they + could not launch their boats. The next day they discovered and named some + mountains which they called Sierra Nevada, and, sailing on, went as far + north as about 40¼. But this winter voyage was made at a great sacrifice. + The exposure and hardships, following the wound he had received, were too + much for even the hardy sailor Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo. After weeks of + struggle with storms, the ships were forced back to their old shelter at + San Miguel. Here Christmas week was spent, but a sad holiday it was to the + explorers, for their brave leader lay dying. Nobly had he done his duty up + to the last. + </p> + <p> + “Juan,” he said, to his young attendant, on Christmas Eve, “how gladly the + bells will be ringing in Lisbon to-night. I seem to hear them now. They + drive out all other sounds. Call Ferrelo and let no one else come but the + padre.” Very soon Juan returned with Cabrillo’s first assistant, the + pilot, Ferrelo, a brave navigator and a just man. + </p> + <p> + “Ferrelo,” said Cabrillo, faintly, “Death calls me, and the duty I lay + down you must take up. I command you to push the expedition northward at + all hazards, and to keep such records as are necessary in order that + fitting account of our voyage shall be given to the world. Will you + promise me to do this?” + </p> + <p> + “I will, my master,” said Ferrelo, simply. “To the best of my ability will + I take up your work.” + </p> + <p> + “Always looking for the strait, Ferrelo?” + </p> + <p> + “Always, senor.” + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of January, 1543, the brave man died and was buried in the sands + of Cuyler Harbor on San Miguel Island. His men called the island Juan + Rodriguez. This name was afterwards dropped, but California should see to + it that the island is rechristened in honor of the great sailor who sleeps + there. + </p> + <p> + Ferrelo later succeeded in sailing as far north as Cape Mendocino and + perhaps as far as 42¡, but, though he kept as close to the shore as + possible, he failed to discover the great bay whose waters, spreading like + a sheet of silver over sixty miles of country, lay hidden just behind the + Golden Gate. Near the Oregon line he was driven back by storms, and + returned to Mexico, where he published a full account of the voyage. + </p> + <p> + Drake + </p> + <p> + In the town of Offenburg, Germany, there is a statue of a man standing on + the deck of a ship, leaning against an anchor, his right hand grasping a + map of America, his left, a cluster of bulbous roots. On the pedestal is + the inscription, “Sir Francis Drake, the introducer of potatoes into + Europe in the year of our Lord 1586.” + </p> + <p> + While it is doubtful whether this honor really belongs to Drake, an + Englishman, seeing the statue, would be inclined to say, “Is this all that + Germany has to tell of the great captain who led our navy against the + Spanish Armada; the first Englishman to sail around the world; the most + daring explorer, clever naval commander, expert seaman, brave soldier, + loyal friend, and gallant enemy of his time?” A Spaniard, on the contrary, + might well exclaim, “Why did Germany erect a statue to this terrible man + whom our poets call Dragontea [Dragon], this greatest of all pirates, this + terror of the sea?” All this, and more, might be said of one man, who + began life as a ship’s boy. + </p> + <p> + At the time Drake first went to sea, England and Spain were by no means + friendly. Henry the Eighth of England had ill-treated his wife, who was a + Spanish princess. In addition he had drawn the English people away from + the Church of Rome. These things were most displeasing to Spain, but there + was still another reason for disagreement. The interests of the two + countries were opposed commercially, and this was the most important cause + of contention. + </p> + <p> + Spain claimed by right of discovery, and gift of the Pope of Rome, all the + land in the new world except Brazil (which belonged to Portugal), and held + that no explorers or tradesmen, other than her own, had any rights on her + waters or in her ports. English seamen denied much of this claim, and so + frequent were the disputes arising upon the subject that the English + sailors adopted as a maxim, “No peace beyond the line,” meaning the line + which was, by the Pope’s decree, the eastern boundary of the Spanish + claim. + </p> + <p> + The favorite prey of the British mariners was the treasure ships carrying + to Spain the precious cargoes of gold and silver from the rich mines of + the new world. With the far richer ships of the Philippine and Indian + trade, sailing on unknown waters, they had not, up to Drake’s time, been + able to interfere. + </p> + <p> + Drake, when a very young man, had joined a trading expedition to Mexico. + While there the English were attacked by the Spanish in what the former + considered a most treacherous manner. Drake’s brother and many of his + comrades were killed, and their goods taken. After the battle he solemnly + vowed to be revenged, and so thoroughly did he carry out his resolution + that he was for years the terror of the Spanish seamen, and, by many of + the superstitious common sailors, believed to be Satan himself come to + earth in human form. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after this unfortunate expedition Drake engaged in a marauding + voyage to Panama, where he captured rich stores of gold and silver and + precious stones. He gained such renown for his bravery and seamanship that + upon coming home he found himself famous. + </p> + <p> + Queen Elizabeth knew that Spain was opposed to her and her religion, and + was not in her heart displeased when her brave seamen got the better of + their Spanish rivals. She received Drake privately, and help was offered + him secretly from people who stood high in the government. With this + encouragement he resolved to embark on a most hazardous and daring + adventure. While in Panama he had seen, from a “high and goodlie tree” on + a mountain side, the great Pacific, and was immediately filled with a + desire to sail on its waters and explore its shores. He therefore + determined to cross the Atlantic, pass through the Strait of Magellan, up + the Pacific, and to plunder the Spanish towns along the coast of South and + Central America, until he should reach the region traversed by the richly + laden Spanish ships coming from India and the Philippines. It is said that + the queen herself put a thousand crowns into this venture. One thing is + certain, that he received sufficient help to fit out five small vessels, + with one hundred and sixty-four men. With these he sailed from Falmouth, + England, in December of 1577. With the exception of perhaps one or two of + the rich men who had helped him, no one, not even his men, knew of his + plans. + </p> + <p> + After a long and interesting voyage in which one vessel was lost and the + others, though he did not know it, had deserted him, he found himself with + but one ship beating his way up the coast of Lower California. This was + his flagship Pelican, which he had rechristened the Golden Hind. It was + then so laden with rich booty, that it was like a hawk which had stolen + too heavy a chicken, driven this way and that by the winds, scarcely able + to reach its nest. + </p> + <p> + In addition to a good store of Chile wines and foods of various kinds, + there were packed away in the hold of the Golden Hind, twenty-five + thousand pesos of gold, eight thousand pounds of English money, and a + great cross of gold with “emeralds near as large as a man’s finger.” From + one vessel Drake had taken one hundred-weight of silver; from a messenger + of the mines, who was sleeping beside a spring on the Peruvian coast, + thirteen bars of solid silver; off the backs of a train of little gray + llamas, the camels of the Andes, eight hundred pounds of silver; and + besides all these were large quantities of gold and silver that were not + recorded in the ship’s list, and stores of pearls, diamonds, emeralds, + silks, and porcelain. + </p> + <p> + The last prize taken was the Spanish treasure ship Cacafuegos. Drake had + transferred its cargo and crew to his own vessel and, for a time, manned + it with some of his men. Its noble commander, St. John de Anton, who had + been wounded in the attack, received every possible attention on the + English vessel, and in the report which he afterwards made to the viceroy + of Mexico, he told of the perfect order and discipline maintained on the + Golden Hind, and of the luxury which surrounded its commander, who was + treated with great reverence by his men. + </p> + <p> + Before sailing on to the northward, Drake restored St. John and his crew + to their vessel. Then, because he feared that they might fall into the + hands of his fleet (having no suspicion that the other captains had + returned home), he gave the Spaniards the following letter, which shows + the great Englishman to have been more honorable than he is oftentimes + represented:— + </p> + <p> + “To Master Weinter and the Masters of the Other Ships of my Fleet: + </p> + <p> + “If it pleaseth God that you should chance to meet with this ship of St. + John de Anton, I pray you use him well according to my promise given him. + If you want to use anything that is in the ship, I pray you pay him double + value for it, which I will satisfy again. And command your men not to do + any harm and what agreement we have made, at my return unto England, I + will, by God’s help, perform, although I am in doubt that this letter will + ever come to your hand, notwithstanding I am the man I have promised to + be. + </p> + <p> + “Beseeching God, the Saviour of the world, to have us all in his keeping, + to whom I give all honor, praise, and glory, + </p> + <p> + “Your sorrowful captain, whose heart is heavy for you, + </p> + <p> + “Francis Drake.” + </p> + <p> + How to get home was the problem which this daring man had now to solve. + There was no possibility of returning by the way he had come. He well knew + that the news of his departure had reached Spain, and that her war ships + would be waiting for him, not only at the eastern entrance of the Strait + of Magellan, but at the Isthmus and in the Caribbean Sea. + </p> + <p> + If by sailing northward he could find the Strait of Anian, then his + homeward journey would be safe and short; but if he could not find that + illusive body of water, then there was left to him but the Pacific for a + highway. However, this did not daunt him, as he felt that what the + Portuguese Magellan had done, Drake the Englishman could do. + </p> + <p> + Keeping well out from shore, the Golden Hind now sailed northward for + nearly two months. Drake passed just west of the Farallon Islands, never + dreaming of the great harbor which lay so short a distance on the other + side. He traveled as far north as latitude 42¡ or possibly 43¡, and + perhaps he even landed at one point, but he failed to find the strait. + According to Fletcher, the priest of the Church of England who kept a + journal of the expedition, they were finally forced by the extreme cold to + turn southward. “Here,” says Fletcher, “it pleased God on this 17th day of + June, 1579, to send us, in latitude 38¡, a convenient fit harbor.” This is + now supposed to be Drakes Bay, which lies thirty miles northwest of San + Francisco, in Marin county. + </p> + <p> + “In this bay we anchored, and the people of the country having their + houses close to the waterside showed themselves unto us and sent presents + to our general. He, in return, courteously treated them and liberally + bestowed upon them things necessary to cover their nakedness. + </p> + <p> + “Their houses are digged around about with earth and have for the brim of + that circle, clefts of wood set upon the ground and joined closely + together at the top like the spire of a steeple, which by reason of this + closeness are very warm. The men go naked, but the women make themselves + loose garments knit about the middle, while over their shoulders they wear + the skin of a deer.” + </p> + <p> + These people brought presents and seemed to want to offer sacrifices to + the strangers as gods, but Drake, hastily calling his men together, held + divine services, “To which, especially the prayers and music,” says + Fletcher, “they were most attentive and seemed to be greatly affected.” + The Bible used by Drake in this service is still to be seen in Nut Hall + House, Devonshire, England. + </p> + <p> + Presently a messenger came, saying that the king wished to visit them if + they would assure him of their peaceful intentions. Drake sent him + presents, then marched his force into a kind of fort he had had made in + which to place such parts of the cargo as it was necessary to remove in + order to careen the ship for repairing. The coming of the chief is thus + described:— + </p> + <p> + “He came in princely majesty. In the fore-front was a man of goodly + personage who bore the scepter whereon was hung two crowns with chains of + marvelous length. The crowns were made of knit-work wrought with feathers + of divers colors, the chains being made of bony substances. + </p> + <p> + “Next came the king with his guard, all well clothed in connie skins, then + the naked common people with faces painted, each bearing some presents. + After ceremonies consisting of speeches and dances, they offered one of + the crowns to Drake, who, accepting in the name of Elizabeth, allowed it + to be placed on his head.” + </p> + <p> + While the men were busy cleaning and repairing the ship, the commander and + his officers made excursions into the interior, visiting many Indian towns + and passing through wide plains where vast herds of deer, often one + thousand or more, all large and fat, were feeding on the rich grasses. + They also saw great numbers of what they called connies, which, from their + description, must have been ground squirrels, or else some variety of + animal now extinct. The country Drake named New Albion, partly from its + white cliffs, which resembled those of his native land, and partly in + belief that it would be easier to lay claim to the country if it bore one + of the names applied to England. + </p> + <p> + “When the time came for our departure,” continued Fletcher in his journal, + “our general set up a monument of our being here, so also, of her + majesty’s right and title to the land: namely a plate nailed upon a fair + great post, whereon was engraved her majesty’s name, the day and year of + our arrival, with the giving up of the province and people into her + majesty’s hands, together with her highness’ picture and arms in a + sixpence under the plate, whereunder was also written the name of our + general.” + </p> + <p> + Fletcher seemed not to know of Cabrillo’s voyage, for he claimed that no + one had ever discovered land in this region, or for many degrees to the + south; while in fact Ferrelo with Cabrillo’s ships had sailed as far north + as latitude 42¡, although we have no reason to think that he landed in a + higher latitude than that of Point Conception and San Miguel Island. + </p> + <p> + Once again solemn religious services were held by the Englishmen on the + hospitable soil that had been their home for over a month. Then they went + on board the ship, accompanied to the shore by the grieving Indians, who + would not be comforted when they saw their new friends forsaking them. It + was near the last of July in 1579 that Captain Drake with his brave men + began his wonderful homeward voyage. + </p> + <p> + It was a triumphant return they made in September, a year later. Crowds + flocked to see the famous ship and its gallant commander. + </p> + <p> + Some of the queen’s statesmen strongly disapproved of Drake’s attack upon + Spanish towns and vessels, and felt he should be arrested and tried for + piracy; but the common people cheered him wherever he went, and as a + crowning honor, in the luxurious cabin of his good ship Golden Hind, he + was visited by the great Elizabeth herself. When the banquet was over, at + the queen’s command, he bent his knee before her, and this sovereign, who, + though a woman, dearly loved such courage and daring as he had displayed, + tapped him on the shoulder and bade him arise “Sir Francis Drake.” + </p> + <p> + Galli and Carmenon + </p> + <p> + In 1584 Francisco Galli, commanding a Philippine ship, returning to Mexico + by way of Japan, sighted the coast of California in latitude 37¡ 30’. He + saw, as he reported, “a high and fair land with no snow and many trees, + and in the sea, drifts of roots, reeds, and leaves.” Some of the latter he + gathered and cooked with meat for his men, who were no doubt suffering + from scurvy. + </p> + <p> + Galli wrote of the point where he first saw the coast as Cape Mendocino, + which would seem to imply that the point had been discovered and named at + some previous time, of which, however, there is no record. + </p> + <p> + In 1595 Sebastian Carmenon, commanding the ship San Agustin, coming from + the Philippines, was given royal orders to make some explorations on the + coast of California, probably to find a suitable harbor for Manila + vessels. In doing so he was so unfortunate as to run his vessel ashore + behind Point Reyes, and to lighten her was obliged to leave behind a + portion of his cargo, consisting of wax and silks in boxes. There is only + the briefest record of this voyage, and no report of any discoveries. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino + </p> + <p> + Almost sixty years after the voyage of Cabrillo, came a royal order from + the king of Spain to the viceroy of Mexico which, translated from the + Spanish, ran something like this:— + </p> + <p> + “Go, search the northern coast of the Californias, until you find a good + and sufficient harbor wherein my Manila galleons may anchor safe and + protected, and where may be founded a town that my scurvy-stricken sailors + may find the fresh food necessary for their relief. Furthermore, spare no + expense.” + </p> + <p> + The destruction of Spanish shipping by Drake and other English seamen who + followed his example, had caused great anxiety to the Spaniards and was + partly the reason for this order. + </p> + <p> + “Send for Don Sebastian,” said the viceroy. “He is a brave gentleman and + good sailor. He shall carry out the order of the king.” But it took time + to fit out such an expedition, and it was not until an afternoon in May, + 1602, that Don Sebastian Vizcaino, on his flagship, the San Diego, sailed + out of the harbor of Acapulco into the broad Pacific. Closely following + him were his other ships, the San Thomas and Tres Reyes. + </p> + <p> + There had been solemn services at the cathedral that afternoon. Officers + and men had taken of the holy communion; and now their wives and children + stood on the island at the entrance of the harbor, watching the white + sails as they grew fainter and fainter and at last disappeared in the haze + of the coming night. + </p> + <p> + Then the watchers returned to their lonely homes with heavy hearts, for in + those days few came back who sailed out on the great South Sea. Storms, + battles with the natives, and scurvy made sad havoc among the sailors. + </p> + <p> + Early in November Vizcaino entered “a famous port,” which he named San + Diego, finding it, as Padre Ascension’s journal says, “beautiful and very + grand, and all parts of it very convenient shelter from the winds.” After + leaving San Diego, the next anchoring place was the island named by + Vizcaino for Santa Catalina, on whose feast day his ships entered the + pretty little harbor of Avalon. + </p> + <p> + The Spaniards were greatly pleased with the island and also with the + people, whom they described as being a large-figured, light-complexioned + race; all, men, women, and children, being well clothed in sealskins. They + had large dwellings, many towns, and fine canoes. What struck Padre + Ascension most strongly was their temple, of which he says: “There was in + the temple a large level court, and about this a circle surrounded by + feather work of different colors taken from various birds which I + understand had been sacrificed to their idols. Within this circle was the + figure of a demon painted in color after the manner of the Indians of New + Spain. On its sides were figures of the sun and moon. + </p> + <p> + “It so fell out that when our soldiers came up from the ships to view the + temple, there were in the circle two immense ravens, far larger than + ordinary. When the men arrived, they flew away to some rocks that were + near by, and the soldiers seeing how large they were, raised their + arquebuses and killed them both. Then did the Indians begin to weep and + make great lamentation. I understand that the devil was accustomed to + speak to them, through these birds, for which they showed great respect.” + </p> + <p> + There were in the island quantities of edible roots of a variety of the + yucca called gicamas, and many little bulbs which the Spanish called + “papas pequenos” (little potatoes). These, the padre said, the Indians + took in their canoes over to the mainland, thus making their living by + barter. This certainly must have been the beginning of commerce on the + coast. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino entered and named the Bay of San Pedro. To the channel islands he + also gave the names which they now bear. Sailing on, he discovered a river + which he named “Carmelo,” in honor of the Carmelite friars who accompanied + him. The same day the fleet rounded the long cape called “Point Pinos” and + came to anchor in the bay formed by its projection. From here the San + Tomas was sent to Mexico to carry the sick, of whom there were many, and + to bring back fresh supplies. The men who remained were at once set to + work. Some supplied the two ships with wood and water; others built a + chapel of brush near the beach, under a large oak at the roots of which + flowed a spring of delicious water. In this chapel mass was said and the + Te Deum chanted. For over one hundred and fifty years this oak was known, + both in New Spain and at the court of the king, as the “Oak of Vizcaino, + in the Bay of Monterey.” From here Vizcaino wrote to the king of Spain as + follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Among the ports of greater consideration which I have discovered is one + in 30¡ north latitude which I called Monterey, as I wrote to your majesty + in December. It is all that can be desired for commodiousness and as a + station for ships making the voyage from the Philippines, sailing whence + they make a landfall on this coast. It is sheltered from all winds and in + the immediate vicinity are pines from which masts of any desired size + could be obtained, as well as live oak, white oak, and other woods. There + is a variety of game, great and small. The land has a genial climate and + the waters are good. It is thickly settled by a people whom I find to be + of gentle disposition, and whom I believe can be brought within the fold + of the Holy Gospel and subjugation to your majesty.” + </p> + <p> + This enthusiastic praise of the harbor of Monterey by a man who was + familiar with the port of San Diego, caused much trouble later, as will be + seen in the study of the founding of the missions. + </p> + <p> + Not waiting for the return of the San Tomas, Vizcaino with his two ships + soon sailed northward, and reached a point in about latitude 42¡, which + was probably the northern limit reached by Cabrillo’s ships and only a + little lower than the farthest explorations of Drake. Although Vizcaino + was looking for harbors, he yet passed twice outside the Bay of San + Francisco, the finest on the coast, without discovering it. After his + return to Mexico, Vizcaino endeavored to raise an expedition to found a + settlement at Monterey, even going to Spain to press the matter; but other + schemes were demanding the king’s attention, and he would give neither + thought nor money to affairs in the new world; and so, thoroughly + disheartened Vizcaino returned to Mexico. + </p> + <p> + From this time for over one hundred and fifty years there is no record of + explorations along this coast, either by vessels from Mexico or by those + coming from the Philippines. California seemed again forgotten. + </p> + <p> + This is the story of the few voyages made to the coast of California + previous to its settlement. The first, under Cabrillo, was sent out by the + viceroy Mendoza, who hoped to gain fame and riches by the discovery of the + Strait of Anian, and by finding wealthy countries and cities which were + supposed to exist in the great northwest, about which much was imagined + but nothing known. + </p> + <p> + Drake planned his voyage largely in pursuit of his revenge upon Spain, + partly for the plunder which he hoped to obtain from the Spanish towns and + vessels along the Pacific coast of America, and partly because of his + desire to explore the Pacific Ocean. + </p> + <p> + Vizcaino also was expected to search for the strait, but he was especially + sent out to find a good harbor and place for settlement on the California + coast. This was intended in a great measure for the benefit of the + Philippine trade, but also to aid in holding the country for Spain. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IV. — The Cross of Santa Fe + </h2> + <p> + The kings highway which led up from Vera Cruz, the chief port of the + eastern coast of Mexico, to the capital city of New Spain had in the + eighteenth century more history connected with it than any other road in + the new world. Over it had passed Montezuma with all the splendor of his + pagan court. On it, too, had marched and counter marched his grim + conqueror, the great Cortez. Through its white dust had traveled an almost + endless procession of mules and slaves, carrying the treasures of the + mines of Mexico and the rich imports of Manila and India on toward Spain. + </p> + <p> + Over this road there was journeying, one winter day in the year 1749, a + traveler of more importance to the history of the state of California than + any one who had gone before. He was no great soldier or king, only a + priest in the brownish gray cloak of the order of St. Francis. He was + slight in figure, and limped painfully from a sore on his leg, caused, it + is supposed, by the bite of some poisonous reptile. The chance companions + who traveled with him begged him to stop and rest beside a stream, but he + would not. Then, as he grew more weary, they entreated him to seek shelter + in a ranch house near by and give up his journey. + </p> + <p> + “Speak not to me thus. I am determined to continue. I seem to hear voices + of unconverted thousands calling me,” was all the answer he gave. So on + foot, with no luggage but his prayer book, he limped out of sight—the + humble Spanish priest, Junipero Serra. + </p> + <p> + While only a schoolboy, young Serra had been more interested in the Indian + inhabitants of the new world than in boyish pleasure. As he grew older it + became his greatest desire to go to them as a missionary. At eighteen he + became a priest; but it was not until his thirty-sixth year that he gained + the opportunity of which he had so long dreamed, when, in company with a + body of missionaries, among whom were his boyhood friends, Francisco Palou + and Juan Crespi, he landed at Vera Cruz. + </p> + <p> + He was too impatient to begin his new work, to wait for the government + escort which was coming to meet them. So he started out on foot, with only + such companions as he might pick up by the way, to make the long journey + to the city of Mexico. + </p> + <p> + Sixteen years later, attended by a gay company of gentlemen and ladies, + there traveled over this road one of Spain’s wisest statesmen, Jose de + Galvez, whom the king had sent out to look after affairs in the new world. + Flourishing settlements were by this time scattered over a large portion + of Mexico, and even in the peninsula of Lower California there were a + number of missions. It was almost a hundred years before this time that + two Catholic priests of the Society of Jesus had asked permission to found + mission settlements among the Indians of this peninsula. + </p> + <p> + “You may found the missions if you like, but do not look to us for money + to help you,” was the answer returned by the officers of the government. + So the two Jesuit priests set about collecting funds for the work. + </p> + <p> + They were eloquent men, and the people who heard them preach became so + interested in the Indians that they were glad to give. And so, little by + little, this fund grew. As the good work went on, greater gifts poured in. + Whole fortunes were left them, and finally they had a very large sum + carefully invested in the city of Mexico. This was known as the Pius Fund. + From it was taken all the money needed for the founding of the missions of + Lower California; and, many years later, the expenses of founding the + twenty-one missions of Upper California came from the same source. This + fund became the subject of a long dispute between Mexico and the United + States, of which an account is given in Chapter XI. — In 1767 all + the Jesuit priests in New Spain were called back to Europe, and a large + portion of their wealth and missions on the peninsula were given over to + the order of St. Francis, with Junipero Serra at their head. It was + Galvez’s duty to superintend this change, and while he was on his way to + the peninsula for that purpose he was overtaken by an order from the king + of Spain to occupy and fortify the ports of San Diego and Monterey. The + Spanish government had the description of these ports furnished by + Vizcaino in his account of his explorations in Upper and Lower California + over one hundred and sixty years before. + </p> + <p> + The articles of the king’s order were: first, to establish the Catholic + faith; second, to extend Spanish dominion; third, to check the ambitious + schemes of a foreign power; and lastly, to carry out a plan formed by + Philip the Third, as long ago as 1603, for the establishment of a town on + the California coast where there was a harbor suitable for ships of the + Manila trade. + </p> + <p> + Galvez at once proceeded to organize four expeditions for the settlement + of Upper California, two by land, two by sea. Captain Portola, governor of + the peninsula, was put in command, with good leaders under him. Still, + Galvez was not satisfied. + </p> + <p> + “This is all very well,” he said; “these men will obey my orders, but they + do not care much whether this land is settled or not, and if + discouragements arise, back they will come, and I shall have the whole + thing to do over again. I must find some one who is interested in the + work, some one who will not find anything impossible. I think I shall send + for that lame, pale-faced priest, with the beautiful eyes, who has taken + up the work of these missions so eagerly.” + </p> + <p> + “So you think we can make the venture a success?” asked Galvez, after he + had talked over his plans with Junipero. + </p> + <p> + “Surely,” said Padre Serra, his eyes shining, his whole face glowing with + enthusiasm. “It is God’s work to carry the cross of the holy faith [Santa + Fe] into the wilderness, and He will go with us; can you not hear the + heathen calling us to bring them the blessed Gospel? I can see that I have + lived all my life for this glorious day.” + </p> + <p> + Then they went to work, the priest and the king’s counselor—down on + the wharf, even working with their own hands, packing away the cargo. + </p> + <p> + “Hurry! Hurry!” said Galvez. The word was passed along, and in a short + time the four expeditions were ready. + </p> + <p> + Many were the trials and discouragements of the various parties. Scurvy + was so severe among the sailors that one ship lost all its crew save two + men, and there were a number of deaths on another ship; while a third + vessel which started later was never heard from. Padre Junipero, who + accompanied the second land party, under the charge of Governor Portola, + became so ill from the wound on his leg that the commander urged him to + return; but he would not. Calling a muleteer who was busy after the day’s + march, doctoring the sores on his animals, he said:— + </p> + <p> + “Come, my son, and cure my sores also.” + </p> + <p> + “Padre,” exclaimed the man, shocked at the idea, “I am no surgeon; I + doctor only my beasts.” + </p> + <p> + “Think then that I am a beast, my child,” said the padre, “and treat me + accordingly.” + </p> + <p> + The man obeyed. Gathering some leaves of the malva, or cheese plant, he + bruised them a little, heated them on the stones of the camp fire, and + spreading them with warm tallow, applied them to the wound. The next + morning the leg was so much better that the cure was thought to be a + miracle. Still the padre was very weak; and there was great rejoicing in + the party when at last they looked down from a height on San Diego Bay, + with the two ships—the San Carlos and the San Antonio—riding + at anchor, white tents on the beach, and soldiers grouped about. Salutes + were fired by the newcomers and returned by the soldiers and ships, and + very soon the four expeditions were reunited. + </p> + <p> + On the next day, Sunday, solemn thanksgiving services were held. Then for + fourteen days all were busy attending to the sick, making ready for the + departure of the ship San Antonio, which was to be sent back for supplies, + and packing up food and other necessities for the journey to Monterey. The + San Antonio sailed on the 9th of July, 1769, and five days later Governor + Portola and two thirds of the well portion of the company started overland + to Monterey. + </p> + <p> + Meantime Padre Junipero had been impatiently awaiting an opportunity to + begin his great work—the conversion of the heathen. He had written + back in his own peculiar way to his friend Padre Palou, whom he left in + charge of the missions of Lower California. + </p> + <p> + “Long Live Jesus, Joseph, and Mary, This to Fray Francisco Palou. + </p> + <p> + “My dear friend and Sir:— + </p> + <p> + “I, thanks be to God, arrived day before yesterday at this, in truth, + beautiful, and with reason famous, port of San Diego. We find Gentiles + [the name given to the wild Indians] here in great numbers. They seem to + lead temperate lives on various seeds and on fish which they catch from + their rafts of tule which are formed like a canoe.” + </p> + <p> + The second day after the departure of Portola and his party, Sunday, July + 16, Padre Serra felt that the glorious moment for which he had so long + prayed had at length arrived. The mission bells were unpacked and hung on + a tree, and a neophyte, or converted Indian, whom he had brought with him + from the peninsula, was appointed to ring them. As the sweet tones sounded + on the clear air, all the party who were able gathered about the padre, + who stood lifting the cross of Christ on high. All joined in solemnly + chanting a hymn, and a sermon was preached. Then with more chanting, the + tolling of, the bells, and the firing of muskets, was concluded the + ceremony of the founding of the first of the California missions, that of + San Diego. + </p> + <p> + Portola and his men, in spite of many discouragements, traveled steadily + northward for nearly two months until at last, one October morning, they + saw what they thought to be Point Pinos, the name given by Cabrillo to the + pine-covered cape to the south of Monterey Bay. They were right in + thinking this Point Pinos, but the sad part is that when they climbed a + hill and looked down on the bay they had come so far to find, they failed + to recognize it. + </p> + <p> + They tramped wearily over the sun-dried hills that bordered it, and walked + on its sandy beach, but could not believe the wide, open roadstead, + encircled by bare brown heights, could be the well-inclosed port lying at + the foot of hills richly green, so warmly described by Vizcaino in his + winter voyage. It was a great disappointment, for this was the latitude in + which they had expected to find Monterey. After talking it over, they + decided they must be still too far south, so they tramped on for many + days. + </p> + <p> + On the last day of October, those of the party who were well enough, + climbed a high hill—(Point San Pedro on the west coast of the + peninsula)—and were rewarded by a glorious view. On their left the + great ocean stretched away to the horizon line, its waves breaking in + high-tossed foam on the rocky shore beneath them. Before them they saw an + open bay, or roadstead, lying between the point on which they stood, and + one extending into the sea far to the northwest. Upon looking at their map + of Vizcaino’s voyage, they rightly decided that this farther projection + was Point Reyes; the little bay sheltered by the curve of its arm was the + one named on the map St. Francis, and now known as Drakes Bay. Well out to + sea they discovered a group of rocky islands which they called Farallones; + but not a man who stood on the height dreamed that only a short distance + to the right up the rocky coast there lay a bay so immense and so + perfectly inclosed that it would ever be one of the wonders of the land + they were exploring. + </p> + <p> + On account of the sick of the party, among whom were the commander and his + lieutenant, it was decided to travel no further, but to camp here while + Sergeant Ortega was dispatched to follow the coast line to Point Reyes and + explore the little bay it inclosed. + </p> + <p> + With a few men and three days’ provisions consisting of small cakes made + of bran and water, which was the only food they had left, this brave + Spanish officer marched away, little imagining the honor which was soon to + be his. Leading this expedition, he was the first white man to explore the + peninsula where now stands the guardian city of the western coast, and we + must wonder what were his thoughts when, pushing his way up some + brush-covered heights, he came out suddenly upon the great bay we call San + Francisco. + </p> + <p> + What a mighty surprise was that sixty miles of peaceful water that had so + long remained hidden from European explorers, baffling the anxious gaze of + Cabrillo, the faithful explorations of Ferrelo, the eagle eyes of Drake, + and the earnest search of Vizcaino! + </p> + <p> + Pushing steadily on toward Point Reyes, Ortega encountered a second + surprise, when from the Presidio hills he looked down on beautiful Golden + Gate, whose rumpled waters seemed to say:— + </p> + <p> + “No farther can you come. We keep guard here.” + </p> + <p> + Seeing that it was quite impossible for him to reach Point Reyes, Ortega + decided to return to Portola. He found the commander and his party so + weakened by sickness and the lack of food that it had been decided to + explore no farther, but to return at once to the southern mission. After a + painful march of sixty days the party reached San Diego. + </p> + <p> + Bitter was the disappointment of Padre Junipero Serra at the failure to + found the mission of Monterey. He did not believe, as many of the party + reported, that the bay was filled up with sand. Keener still was his grief + when Portola, after looking over the supply of food, announced that unless + the ship San Antonio or the sloop San Jose arrived by a certain date with + provisions, they would have to abandon Upper California and return to the + peninsula. + </p> + <p> + The padre at once called the people together for a nine days’ session of + prayer and other church services at which to pray for the coming of the + relief boat. Portola, though he attended the services, went steadily on + with his preparations for departure. On the morning of the day before the + one set for the beginning of the march toward Lower California, the padres + went to the heights overlooking the bay, where they remained watching and + praying. At sea a heavy fog hung over the water. Hour after hour passed as + they gazed out on the lovely bay. Noon came, but they would not return to + the mission to rest or eat. The afternoon wore away, the sun sank in the + clouds above the horizon, then, as all hope seemed gone, the fog was + lifted by a sunset breeze, and there, far out at sea, they saw a white + sail. The good men fell on their knees in thanksgiving, while their Indian + servants ran to carry the news to camp. + </p> + <p> + This vessel, the San Antonio, brought not only abundant provisions but + fresh orders from Galvez to hurry the work at Monterey. The settlement of + Upper California was now made certain. + </p> + <p> + An expedition by land and the San Antonio by sea immediately started + northward. A few weeks later Padre Junipero wrote to Padre Palou: “By the + favor of God, after a month and a half of painful navigation, the San + Antonio found anchor in this port of Monterey, which we find unvarying in + circumstances and substance as described by Don Sebastian Vizcaino.” + </p> + <p> + They even found Vizcaino’s oak. Indeed, it is said on good authority, that + the oak remained standing until 1838, when the high tides washed the earth + from its roots so that it fell. + </p> + <p> + Soon the land expedition arrived, and one June morning in 1770 the members + of the two parties, all in their best attire, were gathered on the beach + for the purpose of founding the second mission. It must have been a pretty + scene,—the stanch little vessel San Antonio, gay with bunting, + swinging at anchor a short distance out, while on shore were grouped the + sailors in the bright dress of seamen of those times, the soldiers in + leather uniform, the governor and his staff in the handsome costumes of + Spanish officials, and the padres in their gray robes. Close beside the + oak a brush house had been built, bells hung, and an altar erected. While + the bells tolled, the solemn service of dedication was held by Padre + Junipero, and so was founded the Mission San Carlos de Borromeo at + Monterey. + </p> + <p> + Near each of the earlier coast missions there was also founded a military + station called a presidio, a name borrowed from the Roman presidium. The + word meant a fort or fortified town. These presidios were intended to + guard the safety of the missions from the wild Indians, and to defend the + coast from ships of other countries. + </p> + <p> + After the religious services Governor Portola proceeded to found the + presidio and take formal possession in the name of the king of Spain by + hoisting and saluting the royal banner, pulling up bunches of grass, and + casting stones, which was an ancient manner of taking possession of a + piece of land or country. The presidio of Monterey was for a long time the + site of the capital of Upper California and therefore most important in + the history of the state. + </p> + <p> + For the sake of better land and water the mission site was soon removed + about six miles, to the Carmelo River. Although not so wealthy as some of + the missions, it was the home of Padre Junipero Serra, president of all + the missions, and so its history is especially interesting. + </p> + <p> + The news of the settlement of San Diego and Monterey was received in + Mexico with great joy, and it was resolved to found five more missions + above San Diego. Four of these were San Gabriel, near the present site of + Los Angeles; San Luis Obispo, farther north; San Antonio; and San + Francisco. Before leaving the peninsula, Padre Serra had asked Galvez, + “And for Father Francisco, head of our order, is there to be no mission + for him?” To which Galvez had replied, “If Saint Francis wants a mission, + let him cause his port to be found and it will be placed there.” When the + beautiful bay was discovered by Sergeant Ortega, it was thought that this + might be the harbor Saint Francis intended for himself, but before naming + it for the head of the order it was necessary that it should be explored. + Although two land expeditions were sent up for this purpose, they were + unsuccessful; and it was not until August, 1775, about four months after + the eventful battle of Lexington had taken place on the Atlantic coast, + that white men first entered the Bay of San Francisco in a ship. + </p> + <p> + Lieutenant Ayala of the Spanish navy, with the San Carlos, had the honor + of conducting this expedition. + </p> + <p> + He reached the entrance to the bay just as night was coming on. Not liking + to trust his vessel in a strange harbor, he sent forward a boat to make + explorations, and then, as it was a little slow in returning, he daringly + pushed on in the darkness into the unknown water. His small craft bobbed + and plunged in the rough water of the bar, darted through Golden Gate, and + came safely to anchor near North Beach. Soon after this exploration it was + settled that here Saint Francis should have his mission. + </p> + <p> + Padre Junipero Serra appointed his friend Francisco Palou, who had now + joined him in his work in Upper California, to make this settlement, and + on the 9th of October, 1776, there was founded in that portion of San + Francisco known as the Mission District, at the corner of Sixteenth and + Dolores streets, the mission of San Francisco. This is often called + Mission Dolores from the name of a small lake and stream beside which it + was built. To-day the name San Francisco rests not only on the old mission + building, with its white pillars, but on the beautiful city which is the + metropolis of our western coast. + </p> + <p> + As fast as possible Padre Junipero hastened the establishment of missions, + choosing those places where there were the largest native settlements. In + the vicinity of Monterey Bay there were, besides the San Carlos mission, + Santa Cruz on the northern curve of the bay, and in the fertile valley + back of the Santa Cruz Mountains the missions of Santa Clara, San Jose, + and San Juan Bautista. Farther south on a lonely height stood Soledad, and + much farther south, San Miguel. + </p> + <p> + The Indians along the Santa Barbara Channel, of whom there were a great + many, were more intelligent and industrious than in other portions of the + country settled by the missionaries, and here were the missions of Santa + Barbara, San Buenaventura, La Purisima, and Santa Inez. + </p> + <p> + In the south, in the fertile valley where are now the great grain fields + of Los Angeles county, San Fernando was founded. Between San Gabriel and + San Diego were placed San Juan Capistrano, San Luis Rey, and the chapel of + Pala. San Rafael and Solano, to the north of San Francisco Bay, complete + the list of twenty-one missions of Upper California. + </p> + <p> + It is impossible to give more than the names of most of these missions, + although about each many true and beautiful stories might be told. It + would be well if those who live near one of these noble ruins would seek + out its particular history and the stories connected with it. This would + be interesting and helpful work for the students in the schools of the + state. + </p> + <p> + The story of the missions seems like a fairy tale, wonderful and unreal. + Into a wilderness inhabited only by savage men and wild animals, hundreds + of miles from any civilized settlement, there came these men trained as + simple priests. + </p> + <p> + Two by two they came, bringing with them, for the starting of each + mission, a few soldiers, seven to ten, a few converted Indians from the + missions of Lower California, a little live stock, some church furniture, + and always the bells; yet in a little over forty years they had succeeded + in founding a chain of missions whose sweet-toned bells chimed the hours + and called to prayer from San Diego to the Bay of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + Churches were built larger and often of a purer type of architecture than + those in the civilized well-settled portions of the land,—buildings + that have lasted for a hundred years and may last many years longer if + care is taken to preserve them. Canals of stone and cement and dams of + masonry were constructed that would do credit to our best workmen of + to-day. + </p> + <p> + The little packages of wheat and other grains, seeds from Spanish oranges + and olives, little dried bundles of grapevines from Mexico, developed, + under their care, into the great fields of grain, groves of oranges and + olives, and the wide-spreading vineyards of the mission ranches. All these + wonders were performed with Indian workmen trained by the padres. + </p> + <p> + But what the missionaries cared for more than their success in building + and planting were the thousands of baptized Indians at each mission. These + they instructed daily for the good of their souls in the truths of the + Christian religion, while for their bodily needs they were taught to plow + the earth, to plant seed, to raise and care for domestic animals. They + learned also many useful trades; and music, frescoing, and art were taught + those who seemed to have an especial taste for such things. + </p> + <p> + At the head of this great work was gentle Padre Junipero Serra, the most + interesting character in the history of the missions. He was frail and + slender and much worn by constant labor of head and hands, but his every + thought and action seemed to be for others. Back and forth from Monterey + to San Diego, from mission to mission, he traveled almost constantly, + teaching, baptizing, confirming thousands of his dusky charges. He was + president of all the missions, and besides this was bishop, doctor, judge, + and architect, as well as steward of the mission products and money. + </p> + <p> + Associated with him in his work were a group of noble men whose lives were + spent in caring for the native people with whom they worked and among whom + they finally died. The inhabitants of California may well honor the + mission padres for their earnest, unselfish lives, and in no way can this + be done so fully as in the preservation of the grand old buildings they + left behind, which are indeed fitting monuments to their devotion, energy, + and skill. + </p> + <p> + Beginning with San Diego, let us, in fancy, visit the missions in the + early part of the nineteenth century. + </p> + <p> + It is a winter day in the year 1813 when we ride up the broad, wind-swept + road which leads to the newly dedicated mission building of San Diego. The + wide plain that surrounds it is green with native grass and the blades of + young wheat. Of the two hundred cattle, one hundred sheep, one hundred + horses, and twenty asses brought up by Padre Junipero in 1769 to be + divided among the earlier missions, San Diego had only its due share; yet + under the wise management of the padres, they have now at this mission, + feeding on the green plains, thousands of cattle, horses, and sheep, which + are tended by comfortably clothed Indian herders. Near the mission are the + green and gold of orange orchards, the gray of the olive, and the bare + branches of extensive vineyards. At one side we see a large kitchen garden + where young Indians are at work planting and hoeing. + </p> + <p> + As we draw up in front of the church, Indian servants come out to take our + horses. We dismount, and a padre who is superintending work in the orchard + comes and welcomes us with gentle courtesy. He sends us a servant to show + us to our room, a small square apartment with a hard earthen floor and + bare, whitewashed walls with no ornament but a cross. The beds are of + rawhide stretched over a frame. The covering consists of sheets of coarse + cotton grown and woven at the southern missions, and blankets, coarse but + warm, made by the Indians from the wool of the mission sheep. + </p> + <p> + Dinner at the padre’s table we find most enjoyable. There is beef and + chicken, the frijole, or red bean of Spain, and other vegetables prepared + in a tasty manner peculiar to Spanish cooking, so we do not doubt that the + cook has been taught his trade by the padre himself. The Indian boys who + wait on the table also show careful training, performing their duties + quickly and quietly. Here we can find for bread the tortilla,—still + the food of the Indian and Mexican people of California. It is a thin cake + made of meal or flour and water, and baked without grease on a hot stone + or griddle. Wines made at the mission, the favorite chocolate, thick and + sweet, and some fruit from the padre’s garden complete the meal. + </p> + <p> + Dinner over, we visit the church and admire the striking contrast between + the red tiles of the roof and the creamy white of the walls. All the + buildings are made of bricks molded from a clay called adobe and dried + slowly in the sun. Each brick is twelve inches square by four inches + thick, and the walls are laid two or three bricks deep, those of the + church itself being nearly four feet in thickness. It seems almost + impossible that so large and well made a building could have been + constructed by untrained workmen. Next to the church are the rooms of the + padres, then the dining room and the quarters of the mission guard, which + consists apparently of but two men, the rest being at the presidio, + several miles away. Adjoining these are the storehouses and shops of the + Indian workmen, all of which open on the great courtyard. + </p> + <p> + In the courtyard is a busy scene. Blacksmiths with hammer and anvil make + sounding blows as they work up old iron into needed farm utensils. The + soap maker’s caldron sends up a cloud of ill-smelling steam. At one side + carpenters are at work trimming and cutting square holes in logs for the + beams of new buildings which the padres wish to put up. Saddle makers, + squatted on the ground, are busy fashioning saddletrees, carving, and + sewing leather. The shoemaker is hard at work with needle and awl. These + and many other trades are all going on at once. These courts, which are + called patios, were generally several acres in extent and at the most + flourishing period of the missions each settlement often gave shelter to + over a thousand people. + </p> + <p> + Behind the central court is the home of the unmarried women. This, and the + rooms for their work, open on a separate square where there is shade from + orange and fig trees and a bathing pond supplied by the zanja, or water + ditch. Here square-figured, heavy-featured Indian girls are busy spinning + and weaving thread into cloth. Others are cutting out and sewing garments. + Some, squatted on the ground, are grinding corn into a coarse meal for the + atole, or mush. At the zanja several are engaged in washing clothes. Here + these girls live under the care of an old Indian woman, and unless she + accompanies them they may not, until they are married, go outside these + walls. Near the mission we visit a long row of small adobe buildings, the + homes of the families of the Christian Indians; a neat, busy settlement + where the little ones, comfortably clothed, play about attended by the + older children, while the mothers work for the padres four or five hours + daily. + </p> + <p> + Leaving San Diego and traveling northward along “El Camino Real,” the + highway which leads from mission to mission, we reach San Luis Rey, “King + of the Missions,” as it is sometimes called. Its church is the largest of + all those erected by the padres, being one hundred and sixty feet long, + fifty-eight feet wide, and sixty feet high. Its one square, two-story + tower has a chime of bells, the sweet clear tones of which reached our + ears while we were yet miles from the mission. Counting the arches of the + long corridor, we find there are two hundred and fifty-six. This mission + became very wealthy. At one time it had a baptized Indian population of + several thousand, owned twenty-four thousand cattle, ten thousand horses, + and one hundred thousand sheep, and harvested fourteen thousand bushels of + grain a year. + </p> + <p> + Its prosperity was due in a great measure to good Padre Peyri, who had + charge of it from its beginning. Many years afterwards, as we shall see, + the padres were ordered by the Mexican government to leave their missions, + the wealth they had gathered, and the Indians they had taught and cared + for. Father Peyri, knowing how hard it would be for him to get away from + his Indian children, as he called them, slipped off by night to San Diego. + In the morning the Indians missed him. Learning what had happened, five + hundred of them mounted their ponies in hot haste and galloped all the way + to San Diego, forty-five miles, to bring him back by force. They arrived + just as the ship, with Padre Peyri on board, was weighing anchor. Standing + on deck with outstretched arms, the padre blessed them amid their tears + and loud cries. Some flung themselves into the water and swam after the + ship. Four reached it, and, climbing up its sides, so implored to be taken + on board that the padre consented and carried them with him to Rome, where + one afterwards became a priest. + </p> + <p> + The next link in our chain, the most beautiful of all the missions, is + that of San Juan Capistrano. It was founded in 1776, the year of our + Declaration of Independence, but in 1812 it was destroyed by an + earthquake, the massive towers and noble arch falling in on the Indians, + who were assembled in the church for morning prayers. Many of them were + killed. The church has never been rebuilt. + </p> + <p> + It is Christmas Day when we reach San Gabriel, the next station on El + Camino Real. Inside the great cactus fence which incloses the square about + the mission we see a strangely mixed company,—Indians in their best + clothes, their faces shining from a liberal use of mission soap and water; + soldiers in their leather suits freshened up for the holiday; a few + ranchmen in the gay dress of the times, riding beautiful horses; women and + girls each brilliant in a bright-colored skirt with shawl or scarf + gracefully draped over head and shoulders. + </p> + <p> + The Christmas Day morning service, held at four o’clock and known by the + common people as the Rooster Mass, is long since over. The crowd is now + gathered for the Pastorel, which, like the miracle plays of the Middle + Ages, is a drama with characters taken from the Bible. + </p> + <p> + First to appear on the scene is an orchestra composed of young Indians + playing violins, bass viols, reeds, flutes, and guitars. Closely following + come the actors, representing San Gabriel and attendant angels, Satan, + Blind Bartimeus, and a company of shepherds. The entertainment is very + simple. There is the announcement of the birth of the Savior, the + adoration of the babe, and the offering of gifts. The play concludes with + a protracted struggle between San Gabriel and Satan for the possession of + Blind Bartimeus, in which the saint finally comes off victor while the + orchestra plays lively music. After the Pastorel there are games, dancing, + and feasting. Every one seems happy, and it is with regret that we leave + the gay scene. + </p> + <p> + Through the hills to the north, across the Arroyo Seco, not dry now, but a + swift stream turbulent from the winter rains, we journey on. We pass Eagle + Rock, a great bowlder high upon the green hillside, one of the landmarks + of the region, and enter the valley of the Los Angeles River. After + traveling for several hours, we come to a large plantation of trees, + vines, and grainfields, in the midst of which lies the mission of San + Fernando. Its land extends for miles on every side and is exceedingly + fertile. In front of the beautiful cloisters, under tall and stately palm + trees, a fountain sends high its sparkling water, which falls back with + pleasant tinkle into a basin of carved stone. + </p> + <p> + When we reach San Buenaventura, the next mission on our route, we find + priests and Indians exceedingly busy, for word has come from Monterey that + a Yankee trading vessel will soon sail for the south, and cattle must be + killed and the fat rendered into tallow for the market. As hides and + tallow are about the only commodities the padres have for sale, this is an + important event. Indians tend the caldrons of bubbling grease, and keep up + the fires under the kettles. When the tallow is slightly cooled, they pour + it into sacks made from the skins of animals. These, when filled with the + hardened tallow, look as though each again held a plump beast. + </p> + <p> + Traveling up the coast we come one afternoon to + </p> + <p> + A golden bay ‘neath soft blue skies Where on a hillside creamy rise The + mission towers whose patron saint Is Barbara—with legend quaint. + </p> + <p> + Here spring is merging into summer, and we are in time to see the ceremony + which closes the wheat harvest. The workmen gather the last four sheaves + from the field, and, fastening them in the form of a cross, carry them, + followed by a long procession of dusky reapers, up the ascent to the + church. As they approach, the bells burst out in a joyous peal, and from + the mission doors the padres come forth, one bearing a cross, another the + banner of the Virgin. A choir of Indian boys follows, chanting a hymn. All + advance slowly down the avenue to meet the sheaf bearers, then counter + march to the church, where the harvest festival is celebrated. + </p> + <p> + Passing by other missions, we must close our journey with a visit to San + Carlos, the Monterey mission, most prominent of all in the history of the + church and state. It was from the first the special charge of Padre + Junipero Serra, and, at the time we see it, his monument as well; for in + it at last his weary body was laid to rest beside his friend Padre Juan + Crespi, to whose writings, next to those of Padre Francisco Palou, we are + most indebted for our knowledge of Junipero Serra and his great work. In + 1813, with its graceful arched front and two towers, San Carlos was a + noble-looking building, but since that time one tower has fallen. + </p> + <p> + We are reminded, as we look, of the scene when Junipero lay dying. Ever + since morning the grief-stricken people had been waiting, listening for + the news from the sick room. When the tolling of the bell announced that + the beautiful life was ended, crowds came weeping and lamenting, anxious + to see again the beloved face. + </p> + <p> + It was with great difficulty that the Indians could be kept from tearing + the padre’s robe from his body, so earnestly did they desire to possess + some relic of the father they had loved so long. + </p> + <p> + Here we notice the daily life of the Indian, which (in 1813) is the same + at all the missions. At sunrise comes the sound of the bells calling to + the morning prayers, and we see the natives hurrying to the church. After + service they gather for breakfast of mush and tortillas. As the flocks and + herds have increased, meat forms part of the daily food, sometimes from + the freshly killed beeves, but generally in a dried state called carne + seco. After breakfast the workers go in groups to their various + employments. Dinner is served at eleven, and they have a resting period + until two. Then work is again taken up and continued until an hour before + sunset, when the bells call to evening prayer. Supper follows the evening + service, after which the Indians can do as they like until bedtime. We see + some engaged in a game of ball. Many are squatted on the ground playing + other games,—gambling, we suspect. In one group there is dancing to + the music of violin and guitar. There is laughter and chattering on all + sides, and to us they seem happy, at least for the time. + </p> + <p> + The life led by the Indians at the missions was not generally a hard one. + No doubt when they first came, or were brought, into the settlements, from + their free wild life, they found it harder to keep the regular hours of + the missions than to perform the work, which was seldom very heavy. When + disobedient or lazy, they were punished severely, judging by the standards + of to-day, but really no harder than was at that time the custom in + schools and in navies the world over. When the soldiers came in contact + with the natives, there was generally cruel treatment for the latter. But + as far as possible the padres stood between their charges and the + soldiers, always placing the mission as far from the presidio as the + safety of the former would allow. + </p> + <p> + At San Diego, about five years after its settlement, wild Indians + surprised the mission guard, and killed the padre and several of the + converted Indians in a most cruel manner. The Spanish government gave + orders that the murderers should be taken and executed and this mission + abandoned; but Padre Junipero begged so hard for the culprits, who, he + said, knew no better, having no knowledge of God, that he was finally + allowed to have his way. Gentleness and patience won the day; not only the + Indians who made the attack were converted, but many more of their tribe, + and the mission became a flourishing settlement. There was once a + rebellion among the Santa Clara and San Jose Indians, led by a young + convert from Santa Clara, which required soldiers from Monterey to put + down. Generally, however, the mission life was peaceful, the Indians being + fond of their padres. + </p> + <p> + When Mexico became free from Spain, no more money was sent up to pay the + soldiers or run the government in Upper California, and for a long time + the missions advanced the money for the expenses of the government. + </p> + <p> + After a time the new priests who came up from Mexico were not generally + men of such education and noble character as the early mission padres. + They cared less for missionary work, and were not so energetic. Their + influence was not always good for the Indians, who quickly saw the + difference between them and their old padres. They had little confidence + in the newcomers, so at the few missions where such as these were in + charge the Indians were disobedient, and received harsh punishments from + the padres; and trouble followed. + </p> + <p> + In 1833 the Mexican government decided to confirm the mandate issued by + Spain several years before in regard to the breaking up of the mission + settlements. By this law each Indian was to have his own piece of land to + own and care for. He was to be no longer under the control of the church, + but to be his own master like any other citizen. As for the padres, they + were to give up their wealth and lands, and leave for other missionary + fields. That this would create a great change in California all realized; + still it was no new idea, but the plan Spain had in mind when the missions + were first founded. The mistake was in supposing that it was possible for + a people to rise in so short a time from the wild life of the California + Indian to the position of self-supporting citizens in a civilized country. + </p> + <p> + When the Indians understood this order, some were pleased and, like + children when freed from restraint, ceased to work and became troublesome. + Many, however, when they found that the padres were to leave them, became + very unhappy; some, it is said, even died from homesickness for the + mission and the padre. One committed suicide. + </p> + <p> + It was soon seen that they were not fitted to look after themselves. Only + a few years had passed since they were savages, knowing nothing of + civilized life, and they still needed some one to guide them. They not + only began to drink and gamble, but were cheated and ill-treated on all + sides, until many of them became afraid of living in towns and went back + to wild life. For this they were no longer fitted, and they suffered so + much from hunger and cold that great numbers of them died. + </p> + <p> + Because the Indians were not capable of caring for themselves at the time + of the secularization of the missions, the padres are often severely + blamed. It is said that they tried to keep the natives without knowledge, + in fact something like slaves. But the truth is that the padres taught + them by thousands, not only to cultivate the soil, to irrigate wisely, to + raise domestic cattle, but to work at every trade that could be of use in + a new country. They were encouraged to choose from among themselves + alcaldes, or under officers of the mission. In this way every inducement + was given to the Indian showing himself capable of self-control, to rise + to a prominent position in his little world, where he generally ruled his + fellow-workmen wisely and kindly. + </p> + <p> + Added to this, the Indians acquired, through the teaching and example of + the padres, a religion that has lasted through generations. The breaking + up of the mission settlements scattered the Indians through the country, + many of them going back to the wild life in the forest and mountains, + where they no longer had any religious instructions. Yet to-day, after all + the years that have passed, there are few Indians from San Diego to San + Francisco who do not speak the language of the padres and follow, though + it may be but feebly, the teaching of the Catholic faith, the “Santa Fe” + of the padres. + </p> + <p> + Some of the mission buildings, many of the flocks, and much of the land + fell into the hands of men who had no possible right to them. Orchards and + vineyards were cut down, cattle killed and stolen, and there was only ruin + where a short time before there had been thousands of busy people leading + comfortable lives. Soon the churches were neglected and began to crumble + away, bats flew in and out of the broken arches, squirrels chattered + fearlessly in the padre’s dining room, and the only human visitor was some + sad-hearted Indian worshiper, slipping timidly into the desolate building + to kneel alone before the altar where once + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Sweet strains from dusky neophytes + Rose up to God in praise, + When life centered ‘round the missions + In the happy golden days. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter V. — Pastoral Days + </h2> + <p> + For hundreds of years poets have written and singers have sung of the + loveliness of a country life, where there is no gathering together of the + inhabitants in great cities, no struggle to make money, where the people + live much out of doors, are simple in their tastes, healthy and happy. + </p> + <p> + These dreams of an ideal life the Spanish-speaking settlers of early + California made real. In this land of balmy airs, soft skies, and gentle + seas there lived, in the old days, a people who were indifferent to money, + who carried their religion into their daily pleasures and sorrows, were + brotherly toward one another, contented, beautiful, joyous. + </p> + <p> + About the time that the mission of San Francisco was founded, the Spanish + government decided to lay out two towns, or pueblos, where it was thought + the fertile character of the soil would lead the settlers to raise grain + and other supplies, not only for themselves but for the people of the + presidios. Up to this time a large part of the food had been brought, at a + considerable cost, from Mexico. + </p> + <p> + We know that the governor, Felipe de Neve, chose the town sites with care, + for in the whole state there are nowhere more beautiful and fertile spots + than San Jose, near the southern end of San Francisco Bay, and Los + Angeles, near the famous valley of the San Gabriel River. In founding + these two pueblos, and a third which was located where Santa Cruz now + stands, the plan pursued was interesting and somewhat different from the + methods of settlement on the eastern coast of our country. + </p> + <p> + First there was chosen a spot for the plaza, or central square, care being + taken that it was not far from good grazing land suitable for the + settlers’ stock. Around the plaza, lots were set apart for the courthouse, + town hall, church, granaries, and jail. Next were the lots for the + settlers, who each had, besides his home spot, several acres of farming + land with water, and the right to use the pasture lands of the town. To + each family was given, also, two horses, two cows, two oxen, a mule, + several goats, sheep, chickens, farming implements, and a small sum in + money. + </p> + <p> + Instead of asking tax money of the town people, some of the land was + reserved as public property to be rented out, the proceeds to be used for + the expenses of the government. Many people believe that this is the + wisest plan man has yet discovered for managing the expenses of a city, + town, or country. + </p> + <p> + Los Angeles had for many years a large amount of this land near the center + of the town, belonging to the city government. Gradually it was taken up + by settlers or appropriated by officials until, when the place grew large + and thriving, it was found that the land had become private property; and + finally the city had to pay large sums for parks and land for public + buildings. + </p> + <p> + Each pueblo was ruled by an alcalde, or mayor, and council, chosen by the + people. To advise with these officers, there was a commissioner who + represented the governor of the country. During the first few years the + pueblo was governed largely by the commissioner. Presidios, which were, at + first, forts with homes for the commander, officers, soldiers, and their + families, and were ruled by the commanding officer or comandante, + gradually became towns; and then they, too, had their alcalde and council. + There were four presidios—Monterey, San Francisco, San Diego, and + Santa Barbara. + </p> + <p> + In spite of all the gifts of free land, stock, and money, it was hard to + secure a suitable class of settlers. Many of those who came up from Mexico + to live in the pueblos were idle or dissipated, and nearly all uneducated. + When, after several years, a Spanish officer was sent down from Monterey + to convey to the Los Angeles settlers full title to their lands, he found + that not one of the twenty-four heads of families could sign his name. + Later a much better class of people came into the country—men of + education, brave, hardy members of good Spanish families, who obtained + grants of land from the government, bought cattle from the mission herds, + and began the business of stock raising. + </p> + <p> + This was the beginning of the pastoral or shepherd life. Each rancho was + miles in extent, its cattle and horses numbered by thousands. The homes + were generally built around a court into which all the rooms opened, and + were constructed of adobe bricks such as were used at the missions. In the + better class of homes several feet of the space in the courtyard next the + wall were covered with tile roofing, forming a shaded veranda, where the + family were accustomed to spend the leisure hours. Here they received + visitors, the men smoked their cigaritos, and the children made merry. In + the long summer evenings sweet strains of Spanish music from violin and + guitar filled the air, and the hard earthen floor of the courtyard + resounded to the tap-tap of high-heeled slippers, the swish of silken + skirts, and the jingle of silver spurs, as the young people took part in + the graceful Spanish dances. + </p> + <p> + It was no small matter to rule one of these great households. La Patrona + (the mistress) was generally the first one up. “Before the sun had risen,” + said a member of one of the old families, “while the linnets and mocking + birds were sounding their first notes, my mother would appear at our + bedside. ‘Up, muchachos, up, muchachas, and kneel for your Alba!’ The Alba + was a beautiful prayer of thanksgiving for care during the night, with a + plea for help through the dangers and temptations of the day. No excuse + for lying abed was accepted; up, and on the floor we knelt, then she + passed on to where the mayordomo, or foreman, and his men were gathering + in the courtyard. Here, too, was the cook with the Indian maids, busy + making tortillas for the morning meal. ‘Your Albas, my children,’ my + mother would say in her clear, firm voice. Down would drop mayordomo, + vaqueros, cook, and Indian girls, all devoutly reciting the morning + prayer. + </p> + <p> + “After their prayer the children might, if they chose, return to their + beds, but before sleep could again overtake them there would probably come + from a distant room the voice of their aged grandfather asking them + questions from the Spanish catechism. + </p> + <p> + “‘Children, who made you?’ he would call in a quavering voice. + </p> + <p> + “A chorus of small voices would sing-song in response, ‘El Dios’ [God]. + </p> + <p> + “Again he would question, ‘Children, who died for you?’ + </p> + <p> + “Again the reply, ‘El Dios.’ + </p> + <p> + “By the time the questions were all answered there was no chance for more + sleep.” + </p> + <p> + Nothing was taken with the morning coffee but the tortilla. This was a + thin cake made of meal from corn ground by Indian women who used for the + grinding either a stone mortar and pestle, or a metate. The metate was a + three-legged stone about two feet in length and one in breadth, slightly + hollowed out in the center; grain was ground in this by rubbing with a + smaller stone. It took a great number of tortillas to serve the large + household. One Indian maid, kneeling beside a large white stone which + served as table, mixed the meal, salt, and water into balls of dough. + These she handed to another girl, who spatted them flat and thin by + tossing them from one of her smooth bare arms to the other until they were + but a little thicker than a knife blade. The cook then baked them on a hot + dry stone or griddle, turning them over and over to keep them from + burning. + </p> + <p> + El Patron (the master) usually rose early, and after his coffee, put on + his high, wide-brimmed sombrero, and, attended by his sons, if they were + old enough, and his mayordomo, rode over his estate, looking after the + Indian vaqueros and workmen. One gentleman, a member of a fine Spanish + family which lived in the southern part of the state, used to ride out + with his sixteen sons, all of whom were over six feet in height. Generally + the families were large, often comprising twelve children or more. These + made merry households for the little people. + </p> + <p> + After breakfast it was the duty of the mistress to set the host of Indian + girls to their tasks. The padres were always glad to let the young Indian + girls from the mission go into white families where there was a wise + mistress, that they might be trained in both religious and domestic + duties. Going to the gate of the courtyard, the Patrona would call, “To + the brooms, to the brooms, muchachas,” adding, if it were foggy, “A very + fine morning for the brooms, little ones;” and out would come running a + cluster of Indian girls carrying each a broom. At the work they would go, + sweeping as clean as a floor the courtyard and ground for a large space + about the house. + </p> + <p> + Next they flocked to the sewing room, often sixteen or eighteen of these + girls, to take up their day’s work under the mistress’s eye. Some made + garments for the ranch hands, those who were better work women attended to + the making of clothing for the family, while the girls who were the most + skillful with the needle fashioned delicate, fine lace work and + embroidery. + </p> + <p> + The children were seldom indoors unless it rained. There were no schools; + there were few ranches where there were teachers, and the fathers and + mothers generally had their hands too full to devote themselves to their + children’s education, so in the early days it was all playtime. Later, + schools were started for boys, and dreadful places they were. + </p> + <p> + As General Vallejo describes them, they were generally held in a narrow, + badly lighted room, with no adornment but a large green cross or some + picture of a saint hanging beside the master’s table. The master was often + an old soldier in fantastic dress, with ill-tempered visage. The scholar + entered, walked the length of the room, knelt before the cross or picture, + recited a prayer, then tremblingly approached the master, saying, “Your + hand, Senor Maestro,” when with a grunt the hand would be extended to him + to be kissed. Little was taught besides the reading of the primer and the + catechism. + </p> + <p> + Ranch boys early learned to ride, each having his own horse and saddle. + Every year there was a rodeo, or “round-up,” held in each neighborhood, + where cattle from all the surrounding ranches were driven to one point for + the purpose of counting the animals and branding the young. Each stock + owner had to be there with all the men from his ranch who could ride, nor + must he forget his branding irons. These brands were recorded in the + government book of the department, and any one changing the form of his + iron in any manner without the permission of the judge was guilty of a + crime. + </p> + <p> + To the boys the rodeo was the most interesting time of the whole year. The + coming of the strange herds and vaqueros, the counting and the separating + of the animals, and the branding of the young stock made a period of + excitement and fun. Here was offered a chance for the display of good + horsemanship. Sometimes as the cattle were being gradually herded into a + circular mass, an unruly cow or bull would suddenly dart from the drove + and run away at full speed. A vaquero on horseback would immediately dash + after the animal, and, coming up with it, lean from the saddle and seizing + the runaway by the tail, spur his horse forward. Then by a quick movement + he would give a jerk and suddenly let go his hold, when the animal would + fall rolling over and over on the ground. By the time it was up again it + was tamed. Many a boy earned his first praise for good riding at a rodeo. + </p> + <p> + Nowhere in the world were there better and more graceful riders. Horses + used for pleasure were fine, spirited animals. The saddle and the bridle + were generally handsomely inlaid with silver or gold. A California + gentleman in fiesta costume, mounted on his favorite horse, was a delight + to the eyes. His hat, wide in the brim, high and pointed in the crown, was + made of soft gray wool and ornamented with gold or silver lace and cord, + sometimes embroidered with rubies and emeralds until it was very heavy and + exceedingly valuable. His white shirt was of thin, embroidered muslin, and + the white stock, too, was of thin stuff wrapped several times around the + neck, then tied gracefully in front. The jacket was of cloth or velvet, in + dark colors, blue, green, or black, with buttons and lace trimmings of + silver or gold, often of a very elaborate design. About the waist was tied + a wide sash of soft material and gay color, the ends hanging down at the + side. The breeches were of velvet or heavy cloth, dark in color, save when + the rider was gay in his taste, then they might be of bright tints. They + either ended at the knee, below which were leggings of deerskin, or fitted + the figure closely down to just above the ankle, where they widened out + and were slashed at the outer seam, showing thin white drawers, which + puffed prettily between the slashes. A gentleman in Los Angeles still has + the trimmings for such suit, consisting of three hundred and fifty pieces + of silver filigree work. + </p> + <p> + Every one seemed to live out of doors, and though the ranchos were widely + scattered, there was much visiting and social gayety. All who could, + traveled on horseback; while the mother of the family, the children, and + old people used the clumsy carreta with its squeaking wheels. + </p> + <p> + One of the prettiest sights was a wedding procession as it escorted the + bride from her home to the mission church. Horses were gayly caparisoned, + and the riders richly dressed. The nearest relative of the bride carried + her before him on the saddle, across which hung a loop of gold or silver + braid for her stirrup, in which rested her little satin-shod foot. Her + escort sat behind her on the bearskin saddle blanket. Accompanying the + party were musicians playing guitar and violin, each managing horse and + instrument with equal skill. + </p> + <p> + The California woman generally wore a full skirt of silk, satin, wool, or + cotton, a loose waist of thin white goods, and, in cold weather, a short + bolero jacket of as rich material as could be obtained. A bright-colored + ribbon served for a sash, and a lace handkerchief or a muslin scarf was + folded over the shoulders and neck. In place of bonnet and wrap a lace or + silk shawl, or a narrow scarf called a rebosa, was gracefully draped over + the head and shoulders. + </p> + <p> + Children were dressed like the older people, and very pretty were the + girls in their low-necked, short-sleeved camisas or waists, and full gay + skirts, their hair in straight braids hanging down over the shoulders. The + short breeches, pretty round jackets, and gay sashes were very becoming to + the boys. + </p> + <p> + At night the daughters of the house, big and little, were locked into + their rooms by their mother, the father attending in the same manner to + the boys. In the morning the mother’s first duty was to unlock these + doors. + </p> + <p> + Various games were played. Blindman’s buff was a great favorite for + moonlight nights. There was also a game called cuatrito, in which the + players threw bits of stone at a mark drawn on the ground at a certain + distance. + </p> + <p> + “In my time,” said a prominent Californian of to-day, “we used to play + this game with golden slugs instead of stones; there was always a basket + of slugs sitting door. We liked them because they carried well, and we + thought it nothing unusual to use them as playthings. They were abundant + in most of the houses; my mother and her friends used them as soap dishes + in, the bedrooms. + </p> + <p> + “In the spare rooms was always a little pile of money covered by a napkin, + from which the visitor was expected to help himself if he needed. We would + have considered it disgraceful to count the guest money.” + </p> + <p> + “Our parents were very strict with us,” said another Californian, “much + more so than is the custom to-day. Sometimes while the parents, brothers, + and sisters were eating their meal, a child who was naughty had for + punishment to kneel in one corner of the dining room before a high stool, + on which was an earthen plate, a tin cup, and a wooden spoon. It was worse + than a flogging, a thousand times. As soon as the father went out, the + mother and sisters hastened to the sorrowful one and comforted him with + the best things from the table.” + </p> + <p> + The clothes were not laundered each week, but were saved up often for + several weeks or even a month or two, and then came a wash-day frolic. + Imagine wash day looked forward to as a delightful event! So it was, + however, to many California children. Senorita Vallejo, in the Century + Magazine (Vol. 41), thus describes one of these excursions:— + </p> + <p> + “It made us children happy to be waked before sunrise to prepare for the + ‘wash-day expedition.’ The night before, the Indians had soaped the clumsy + carreta’s great wheels. Lunch was placed in baskets, and the gentle oxen + were yoked to the pole. We climbed in under the green cloth of an old + Mexican flag which was used as an awning, and the white-haired Indian + driver plodded beside with his long oxgoad. The great piles of soiled + linen were fastened on the backs of horses led by other servants, while + the girls and women who were to do the washing trooped along by the side + of the carreta. Our progress was slow, and it was generally sunrise before + we reached the spring. The steps of the carreta were so low that we could + climb in or out without stopping the oxen. The watchful mother guided the + whole party, seeing that none strayed too far after flowers, or loitered + too long. Sometimes we heard the howl of coyotes and the noise of other + wild animals, and then none of the children were allowed to leave the + carreta. + </p> + <p> + “A great dark mountain rose behind the spring, and the broad, beautiful + valley, unfenced and dotted with browsing herds, sloped down to the bay + [of San Francisco]. We watched the women unload the linen and carry it to + the spring, where they put home-made soap on the clothes, dipped them in + the spring, and rubbed them on the smooth rocks until they were white as + snow. Then they were spread out to dry on the tops of the low bushes + growing on the warm, windless southern slopes of the mountain.” After a + happy day in the woods came “the late return at twilight, when the younger + children were all asleep in the slow carreta and the Indians were singing + hymns as they drove the linen-laden horses down the dusky ravines.” + </p> + <p> + As at the missions, soon the ranchos, little was raised for sale save + hides and tallow from the cattle. It was not the fault of the settlers + that, living in so fertile a country, they made so little use of its + productiveness. Spain’s laws in regard to trade were made entirely in the + interests of the mother country, the settlers of New Spain, especially of + Alta California, having no encouragement to raise more than they needed + for use at home. They could not sell their produce to ships from foreign + countries, for the penalty for that was death to the foreigner and severe + punishment for the colonist. All trade had to be carried on in Spanish + vessels, and it was forbidden to ship olive oil, wine, or anything that + was raised or made in the home country. As California and Spain were much + alike in climate and soil, this law really stopped all outside trade + except that arising from cattle. + </p> + <p> + After the territory became a Mexican province, the rules were not so + severe in regard to foreign trade, and finally the New England vessels + freely entered the ports by paying certain duties to the government. + </p> + <p> + To the young people upon the ranchos the arrival of a trading vessel was a + great event. If the port was not far from the house, the Patrona and the + young ladies sometimes went on board to select for themselves from the + miscellaneous cargo the things they desired; but as they were generally + afraid of the water, especially of trusting themselves in the ship’s + boats, the father and boys often represented the family on such occasions. + </p> + <p> + When news arrived that a ship was coming down the coast, elder sisters + became very kind and attentive to younger brothers, who accepted panocha + (a coarse brown sugar cast in square or scalloped cakes) and other gifts + contentedly, knowing well they would be expected to “coax Father” to buy + the ring, sash, necklace, or fan which the good sister particularly + desired. Often a ranchero would go down to the harbor with ten or fifteen + ox carts loaded with hides, skins, and tallow, and return with ranch + implements, furniture, dishes, sugar, other food, clothes, and ornaments + of all kinds. Such laughing, chattering, and excitement as there was when + the squeaking ox carts came into the courtyard! The whole household, from + the Patrona and her guests to the Indian mothers with their children from + the kitchen precincts, gathered to watch the slow unloading of the + purchases. Slow, indeed, seemed the process to the eager children of the + family. Except on horseback for a short dash, the Californian never + hurried. For a journey the usual gait was a little jog trot, hardly faster + than a walk. + </p> + <p> + Senorita Vallejo, in the Century Magazine, describes the loading of a + ship’s cargo: “The landing place for the mission of San Jose was at the + mouth of a salt water creek several miles away. When a trading vessel + entered San Francisco Bay, the large ship’s boat would be sent up this + creek to collect the hides and tallow; but if the season was a wet one, + the roads would be too bad for the ox carts; then each separate hide was + doubled across the middle and placed on the head of an Indian. Sometimes + long files of Indians might be seen, each carrying hides in this manner, + as they trotted across the wide, flat plains or pushed their way through + the little forest of dried mustard stalks to the creek mouth.” + </p> + <p> + No such thing was known as a Californian breaking his word in regard to a + debt. Yankee ship owners trusted him freely. Once, when a ship was in + port, the captain left it for a little while in charge of the clerk whose + business it was to sell the goods, but who had never been in California + before and knew nothing of its customs. Down to the shore came a ranchero + attended by servants and ox carts. He came on board and bought many + things, intending to pay later with hides and tallow which were not then + ready. When he ordered the goods taken ashore with never a word as to + payment, the clerk informed him that he must either give money or else + give some writing saying that he would pay. + </p> + <p> + Now this Californian, though rich in lands and stock, could neither read + nor write. When he understood that he was being distrusted, he gravely + drew from his beard a hair, and, handing it to the clerk, said: “Give this + to your master and tell him it is a hair from the beard of Agustin + Machado. You will find it sufficient guarantee.” The clerk saw that he had + made a mistake, and, taking the hair, placed it in the leaves of his note + book and allowed the goods to be taken away. When the captain returned, he + was mortified that there had been any distrust shown. + </p> + <p> + While California was a Spanish province its chief ruler was appointed by + the home government and was always an educated gentleman of good family, + generally an officer of the army. The coming of a new governor was a great + event in the colony and was celebrated with all possible ceremony and + display. + </p> + <p> + In 1810 Mexico began its revolt against Spain. In California the people + were in sympathy with the mother country and had no doubt of her final + success. For a long time they received little news of how the war was + progressing. They only knew that no more money was sent up to pay the + soldiers or the expenses of government, that the padres no longer received + any income from the Pius Fund, that even the trading vessels from Mexico + upon which they depended for their supplies had ceased to come. + </p> + <p> + Times became so hard that the local government turned for aid to the + missions, which had become largely self-supporting. Many of them were + indeed wealthy communities, and the padres responded generously to the + demand for help. For several years they furnished food and clothing to the + soldiers, and money for the expenses of government, for the most of which + they never received payment. + </p> + <p> + Gradually the fine clothes of the Californians wore out, no vessels + arrived from which they could purchase more, and again it was the missions + which came to the rescue. Their cotton and woolen goods were in great + demand. Indian spinners and weavers were busy from morning until night + making clothes for the “gente de razon,” or “people of reason,” which was + the term by which the white settlers were distinguished from the natives. + </p> + <p> + In 1822 a vessel came up from the south, bringing to the governor official + notice that the war had been decided in favor of Mexico, and that + California was therefore a Mexican province. This was disagreeable news to + the Californians, but after consultation held by the governor, his + officers, the padre who was the president of the missions, and some of the + leading citizens, it was decided that they were too far away from Spain to + be able to resist, and that they should take the oath to be true to the + Mexican government. For the padres, who were all Spaniards and loyal to + the home government, this was a hard thing to do, and they never became + reconciled to the change. + </p> + <p> + From this time California was not so well governed. Mexico, which was then + an empire but soon became a republic, had its hands full looking after its + own affairs, and little attention was paid its far-off province. Its best + men were needed at home, and the governors sent up the coast were not + always wise or pleasing to the people. There were several revolutions with + but little bloodshed. One governor was sent back to Mexico. At one time + the Californians declared that theirs was a free state, and a young man + named Alvarado was made governor. General Vallejo, who was his uncle, was + given command of the army. But soon the Californians quarreled bitterly + among themselves, so that this government did not last long and the + territory went back under the rule of Mexico. That government, in order to + have peace in the province, confirmed Alvarado and Vallejo in their + positions. + </p> + <p> + During the war between Mexico and Spain a South American pirate paid a visit + to the coast of Upper California. Monterey was attacked and partly + destroyed, also the mission of San Juan Capistrano and the rancho El + Refugio, the home of Captain Ortega, the discoverer of San Francisco Bay. + In the crew of the pirate ship was a young American named Chapman, who had + found life among his rough associates not so interesting as he had hoped + it would be, so he deserted, but was taken prisoner by the Californians + and imprisoned in a canyon near the present site of Pasadena. Later he was + brought down to Los Angeles and set at liberty. He found the people of the + pueblo planning to build a church on the plaza, and he told them that if + they would let him have some Indian workmen he would get some large + timbers down from the canyon. He accomplished this successfully, and it + was considered a wonderful work. The stumps of the trees can yet be seen + far up on the mountain side, and the timbers are still in the plaza + church. + </p> + <p> + Visiting San Gabriel, young Chapman found the padres having trouble to + keep the flour which they ground in their new stone mill from being + dampened by water from the mill wheel. Knowing something of machinery, the + American remedied the defect by means of a flutter wheel, and there was no + more trouble. + </p> + <p> + For years the catching of otters for their fur along the lagoons and bays + about San Francisco and Monterey brought considerable money to the + northern missions. Chapman, finding that the padres of San Gabriel were + anxious to engage in this trade, built for them the first sea-going boat + ever constructed in southern California. It was a schooner, the various + parts of which he made in the workshop of the mission. They were then + carried down to San Pedro, where he put them together and successfully + launched the vessel. + </p> + <p> + Finally, to close his history, it is recorded of Mr. Chapman that he fell + in love with the pretty daughter of Captain Ortega, whose home he had + helped his pirate associates to attack, that he married her and lived to a + good old age. The country had few more useful citizens than this capable + man, the first American to settle in the southern part of California. + </p> + <p> + With the secularization of the missions in 1833-34 came a change in the + peaceful pastoral life. In each section all that was of interest had from + the first centered around its mission. One of the chief pleasures of the + early Californians was the feast day, “La Fiesta,” which celebrated a + saint’s birthday. During the year there were many of these festivals. + First there were religious exercises at the mission church; then in the + great square there followed dancing, games, and feasting, in which all + classes took some part. These happy church festivals ceased with the + breaking up of the mission settlements. Some of the Indians disturbed the + community by disorderly conduct, and the ill treatment and suffering of + the rest of these simple people caused sorrow and dismay in the hearts of + the better portion of the settlers. There was a wild scramble for the + lands, stock, and other wealth which had been gathered by the missionaries + and their Indian workmen. + </p> + <p> + Many of the beautiful churches were sold to people who cared nothing for + the faith they represented. In some, cattle were stabled. The mission + bells were silent, and many of the mission settlements, once so busy and + prosperous, were solitary and in ruins. + </p> + <p> + Life in the great ranchos still went on much as before, but it was no + longer so simple and joyous. A change had begun, and not many years later, + with the coming of the Americans at the time of the Mexican war, the + peaceful, happy life of Spanish California was brought to an end. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VI. — The Footsteps of the Stranger + </h2> + <p> + At no point does the early history of California come in contact with that + of the colonies of the Eastern coast of the United States. The nearest + approach to such contact was in the year 1789, when Captain Arguello, + commander of the presidio of San Francisco, received the following orders + from the governor of the province:— + </p> + <p> + “Should there arrive at your port a ship named Columbia, which, they say, + belongs to General Washington of the American States, you will take + measures to secure the vessel with all the people aboard with discretion, + tact, cleverness, and caution.” As the Columbia failed to enter the + Californian port, the Spanish commander had no chance to try his wits and + guns with those of the Yankee captain. + </p> + <p> + It would seem as though the Californians lived for a time in fear of their + Eastern neighbors, since prayers were offered at some of the missions that + the people be preserved from “Los Americanos;” but after the coming of the + first two or three American ships, when trade began to be established, + there arose the kindliest feeling between the New England traders and the + Californians. The ship Otter, from Boston, which came to the coast in + 1796, was the first vessel from the United States to anchor in a + California port. + </p> + <p> + La Perouse, in command of a French scientific expedition, was the first + foreigner of prominence to visit California. Of his visit, which occurred + in the fall of 1786, he writes in his journal: “The governor put into the + execution of his orders in regard to, us a graciousness and air of + interest that merits from us the liveliest acknowledgments, and the padres + were as kind to us as the officers. We were invited to dine at the Mission + San Carlos, two leagues from Monterey, were received upon our arrival + there like lords of a parish visiting their estates. The president of the + missions, clad in his robe, met us at the door of the church, which was + illuminated as for the grandest festival. We were led to the foot of the + altar and the Te Deum chanted in thanksgiving for the happy issue of our + voyage.” + </p> + <p> + La Perouse’s account of the country, the people, and the missions is of + great value in giving us a picture of these times. In regard to the + Indians he said that he wished the padres might teach them, besides the + principles of the Christian religion, some facts about law and civil + government, “Although,” said he, “I admit that their progress would be + very slow, the pains which it would be necessary to take very hard and + tiresome.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Vancouver, with two vessels of the British navy, bound on an + exploring voyage round the world, was the next stranger to visit, + California. So much did he enjoy the courtesy of the Spanish officers that + when his map of the coast came out it was found that he had honored his + hosts of San Francisco and Monterey by naming for them two leading capes + of the territory, one Point Arguello and the other Point Sal. + </p> + <p> + As early as 1781 Russia had settlements in Sitka and adjacent islands, for + the benefit of its fur traders, and in 1805 the Czar sent a young officer + of his court to look into the condition of these trading posts. Count + Rezanof found the people suffering and saw that unless food was brought to + them promptly, they would die from starvation. San Francisco was the + nearest port, and though he knew that Spain did not allow trade with + foreign countries, the Russian determined to make the attempt to get + supplies there. Loading a vessel with goods which had been brought out for + the Indian trade of the north coast, he sailed southward. The story of his + visit is well told by Bret Harte in his beautiful poem, “Concepcion de + Arguello.” + </p> + <p> + Rezanof was warmly welcomed and generously entertained by Commander + Arguello of the presidio of San Francisco, but in vain did he try to trade + off his cargo for food for his starving people. The governor and his + officers dared not disobey the laws of Spain in regard to foreign trade. + While they were arguing and debating, however, something happened which + changed their views. The Count fell in love with the commander’s beautiful + daughter, Concepcion. Then, as the poem has it,— + </p> + <p> + “. . . points of gravest import yielded slowly one by one, And by Love was + consummated what Diplomacy begun.” + </p> + <p> + It seemed to the governor that the man who was to be son-in-law in the + powerful family of Arguello could not be considered as a foreigner, and + therefore the law need not apply in his case. Thus the Count got his ship + load of food and sailed away, promising to return as soon as possible for + his betrothed wife. One of the most interesting pictures of early + California is the poem which tells of this pathetic love story. + </p> + <p> + Count Rezanof was so pleased with the beauty and fertility of California + that his letters interested the Czar, who decided to found a colony on the + coast. An exploring expedition was sent out, and the territory about + Russian River in Sonoma County was purchased of the Indians for three + blankets, three pairs of trousers, two axes, three hoes, and some beads. + Fort Ross was the main settlement, and was the home of the governor, his + officers and their families, all accomplished, intelligent men and women. + Besides the soldiers there were a number of mechanics and a company of + natives from the Aleutian Islands, who were employed by the Russians to + hunt the otter. Up and down the coast roamed these wild sea hunters, even + collecting their furry game in San Francisco Bay and defying the + comandante of the presidio, who had no boats with which to pursue them, + and so could do nothing but fume and write letters of remonstrance to the + governor of Fort Ross. Spain, and later Mexico, looked with disfavor and + suspicion upon the Russian settlement, but the people of California were + always ready for secret trade with their northern neighbors. + </p> + <p> + In 1816 Otto von Kotzebue, captain of the Russian ship Rurik, visited San + Francisco and was entertained by the comandante, Lieutenant Luis Arguello. + With Captain Kotzebue was the German poet, Albert von Chamisso. + </p> + <p> + The Russian captain, with brighter faith and keener insight than any other + of the early visitors to the coast, says of the country: “It has hitherto + been the fate of these regions to remain unnoticed; but posterity will do + them justice; towns and cities will flourish where all is now desert; the + waters over which scarcely a solitary boat is yet seen to glide will + reflect the flags of all nations; and a happy, prosperous people receiving + with thankfulness what prodigal nature bestows for their use will dispense + her treasures over every part of the world.” + </p> + <p> + In the writings of Albert von Chamisso can be found a most interesting + description of his visit. To him is due the honor of giving to our + Californian poppy its botanical name. + </p> + <p> + In 1841, the supply of otter having become exhausted, the Russians sold + their property and claims about Fort Ross to the Swiss emigrant, the + genial John Sutter. In 1903, through the agency of the Landmarks Society, + this property and its still well-preserved buildings came into the + possession of the state of California. + </p> + <p> + As early as 1826 there were a number of foreigners settled in California. + These were mostly men from Great Britain or the United States who had + married California women and lived and often dressed like their + Spanish-speaking neighbors. Captain John Sutter, the Swiss who bought out + the Russians of Fort Ross, came to California in 1839. He obtained from + the Mexican government an extensive grant of land about the present site + of Sacramento, and here he erected the famous Sutter’s Fort where all + newcomers, were made welcome and, if they desired, given work under this + kindest of masters. Around the fort, which was armed with cannon bought + from the Russians, he built a high stockade. He gained the good will of + the Indians and had their young men drilled daily in military tactics by a + German officer. + </p> + <p> + Governor Alvarado, at the time of his revolution in 1837, had in his + forces, under a leader named Graham, a company of wandering Americans, + trappers and hunters of the roughest type. Although there was no real war, + and no fighting occurred, yet when Alvarado and his party were successful, + Graham and his men demanded large rewards, and because the governor would + not satisfy them they began to persecute him in every way possible. + Alvarado says: “I was insulted at every turn by the drunken followers of + Graham; when I walked in my garden they would climb on the wall and call + upon me in terms of the greatest familiarity, ‘Ho, Bautista, come here, I + want to speak to you.’ It was ‘Bautista’ here, ‘Bautista’ there.” + </p> + <p> + To express dissatisfaction they held meetings in which they talked loudly + about their country’s getting possession of the land, until Governor + Alvarado, having good reason to believe that they were plotting a + revolution, expelled them from the territory and sent them to Mexico. + </p> + <p> + The United States took up the defense of the exiles and insisted on their + being returned to California. It does not seem that the better class of + Americans who had been long residents of the country sympathized with + Graham and his followers, but from this time there were less kindly + relations between the Californians and the citizens of the United States + who came into the territory. + </p> + <p> + We come now to the story of the conquest. + </p> + <p> + At the beginning of the year 1845 the United States and Mexico were on the + verge of war over Texas, which had been formerly a Mexican province, but + through the influence of American settlers had rebelled, declaring itself + an independent state, and had applied for admission to the American Union. + Because the question of slavery was concerned in this application, it + caused intense excitement throughout the United States. The South was + determined to have the new territory come in as a slave-holding state, + while the men of the North opposed the annexation of another acre of slave + land. + </p> + <p> + Eight Northern legislatures protested against its admission. Twelve + leading senators of the North declared that “it would result in the + dissolution of the United States and would justify it.” On the other hand, + the South resolved that “it would be better to be out of the Union with + Texas than in it without her.” The South won its point. Texas was + admitted, and at once a dispute with Mexico arose over the boundary lines, + and war at length followed, being brought on in a measure by the entrance + of United States troops into the disputed territory. During the long + discussion over Texas the United States was having trouble with Great + Britain over Oregon, which was then the whole country lying between the + Mexican province of California and the Russian possessions on the north + coast (now Alaska). Before the invention of steam cars and the + construction of railroads, the Pacific coast region had been thought of + little value. The popular idea was expressed by Webster when he said: + “What do we want of this vast, worthless area, this region of savages and + wild beasts, of deserts, of shifting sands and whirlwinds of dust, of + cactus and prairie dogs?” But now the United States was waking up, and + things looked different. Of Oregon the Americans were determined to have + at least a portion. California, so far away from Mexico and so poorly + governed, they would like to take under their protection,—at least + the region around the great Bay of San Francisco. + </p> + <p> + As early as 1840 the United States government urged its consul at + Monterey, an American named Larkin, secretly to influence the leading + Californians to follow the example of Texas, secede from Mexico, and join + the United States, where he was to assure them they would receive a + brother’s welcome. Just as he felt he might be successful his plans were + overthrown. + </p> + <p> + One morning in 1842 there came sailing into Monterey Bay two American + men-of-war. Suddenly, to the consternation of those watching from the + shore, one of the ships was seen to fire upon an outgoing Mexican sloop. + After making it captive the three vessels proceeded to the anchorage. + Great was the excitement in Monterey. Neither the comandante nor the + American consul could imagine the reason for such strange conduct. It was + soon explained, however, by the arrival of a ship’s boat bringing an + officer who delivered to the authorities a demand for the surrender of the + fort and place to the American commander of the Pacific fleet, Commodore + Jones, who was on board one of the newly arrived vessels. + </p> + <p> + The Mexican officials and the officers of the army were astonished; so, + too, was the United States consul. They knew of no war between these + countries. Since he had neither men nor arms to resist this strange + demand, Alvarado, who was acting for the absent governor, gave orders to + surrender, and the next day the Mexican flag and forces gave place to + those of the United States. + </p> + <p> + After the ceremony of taking possession, Commodore Jones had a talk with + the American consul, Mr. Larkin, and learned to his dismay that the + letters upon which he had acted and which indicated that war had been + declared were misleading, and from the latest news it was evident that + there was peace between the two countries. + </p> + <p> + The commodore saw at once that he had made a serious mistake, “a breach of + the faith of nations,” as it was called, which was liable to involve the + United States in grave difficulties. How best to undo his rash action was + now his thought. + </p> + <p> + He apologized to the Mexican commander and gave back possession of the + fort. Next, he had the unhappy task of taking down the American flag and + replacing it with the cactus and eagle banner of Mexico, to which the guns + of his vessels gave a salute of honor. From Monterey he sailed away to San + Pedro. There he waited while he sent a messenger to Governor Micheltorena, + who was living in Los Angeles, asking permission to call upon him and + apologize in person. This request was granted, and Commodore Jones and his + staff came up to Los Angeles, where they were the guests of their + countryman, Don Abel Stearns, who, as he had been working with Consul + Larkin to win the Californians to the United States, was most anxious to + undo the mischief of the flag raising. For the benefit of this history, + Dona Arcadia Bandini, who was the beautiful Spanish wife of Mr. Stearns, + tells the story of the visit:— + </p> + <p> + “We gave a dinner to the governor, the commodore, and their attendants. + Everything was very friendly; they seemed to enjoy themselves, and the + uniforms of the two countries were very handsome. On the next day but one + the governor gave a ball. It was to be at his home, which was the only + two-story house in Los Angeles. To show the Americans how patriotic the + people of California were, the governor requested in the invitations that + all the ladies wear white with a scarf of the Mexican colors,—red, + green, and white. Of course we gladly complied, though some of us had to + work hard to get our costumes ready. + </p> + <p> + “The day of the ball came, but with it came rain, such a storm as I never + had seen. As it drew toward evening the water came down faster and faster. + The governor had the only carriage in California, and this he was to send + for the commodore, Mr. Stearns, Isadora, and myself; but the poor young + officers had to walk, and their faces were long when they looked out at + the rain and then down at their fine uniforms and shining boots. + </p> + <p> + “Our California horses were not trained to pull loads and would not work + in the rain, so when the carriage came for us it was drawn by a number of + the governor’s Cholo soldiers. We got in quite safely, and it was only a + short distance we had to go, but as I was getting out the wind suddenly + changed and down came a torrent of water on me. It was clear that I could + not go to the ball in that condition, but the governor immediately ordered + the soldiers to pull the carriage back to my home, where I soon made + another toilet. The ball was delightful. The governor and the commodore + vied with each other in exchanging compliments and courtesies.” + </p> + <p> + It was a sad fact, however, that in spite of apologies, dinners, and + balls, Consul Larkin now found it difficult to persuade his California + neighbors that the United States looked upon them as brothers, and they + began to regard with suspicion the host of American emigrants who were + coming into the territory. + </p> + <p> + In 1842 Lieutenant Fremont, under orders from the United States + government, made the first of his wonderful journeys over deserts and + rough mountain ranges into the great unknown West. Soon he was to become + famous, not only in his own country but in Europe, as the “Pathfinder,” + the road maker of the West. Already many an Oregon emigrant had blessed + the name of Fremont for making plain the trail for himself and his loved + ones. + </p> + <p> + In 1846 Captain Fremont, conducting an exploring and scientific + expedition, entered California with sixty men and encamped in the valley + of the San Joaquin. Later he moved down into the heart of the California + settlements and encamped on the Salinas River. Possibly, knowing that war + would soon be declared between his country and Mexico, he had determined + to see as much of the enemy’s position as possible, not caring + particularly what the Mexican authorities might think. + </p> + <p> + As a natural result, General Castro, commander of the California forces, + objected; Fremont defied him, and there seemed a likelihood of immediate + war. There was no actual fighting, however, and in a day or two Fremont + continued his journey toward Oregon. + </p> + <p> + He had gone but a little way when he was overtaken by a captain of the + navy named Gillespie, bringing him letters from the officers of the + government at Washington. Upon reading these, Fremont immediately turned + about and marched swiftly back to Sutter’s Fort, where he encamped. Just + what orders the messages from Washington contained, no one knows; but it + is thought that perhaps they informed Fremont that war would be declared + very soon and that the government would be pleased if he could quietly get + possession of California. + </p> + <p> + If this was so, he had the best of reasons for his later actions. If not, + then in his eagerness to obtain for his country the valuable territory he + so well appreciated and in his desire to win for himself the honor of + gaining it, he brought on a war that caused the loss of many lives and + much property, and the growth of a feeling of bitterness and distrust + between Americans and Californians that has not yet entirely passed away. + Still it is by no means certain that California could have been won + without fighting, even had Fremont and the American settlers been more + patient. + </p> + <p> + Soon many Americans were gathered about Fremont’s camp; but though there + were a number of rumors as to what General Castro was going to do to them, + there was no action contrary to the previous kindly treatment all had + received from the hands of the Californians. Still the emigrants felt that + as soon as war was declared an army from Mexico might come up which would + not be so considerate of them and their families as had been their + California neighbors. + </p> + <p> + Having good reason to feel certain that Fremont would stand back of them + if they began the fight, a company of Americans attacked one of Castro’s + officers, who, with a few men, was taking a band of horses to Monterey. + Securing the horses, but letting the men who had them in charge get away, + they hurried them to Fremont’s camp, where they left them while they went + on to Sonoma. Here they made prisoner General Vallejo, commander of that + department of the territory, together with his brother and staff. + </p> + <p> + General Vallejo was one of the leading Californians of the north, a man of + fine character, quiet and conservative, generous toward the needy + emigrants and favorable to annexation with the United States. When he saw + the rough character of the men surrounding his house that Sunday morning, + he was at first somewhat alarmed. A man named Semple, who was one of the + attacking party, describing the event in a Monterey paper sometime + afterward, says: “Most of us were dressed in leather hunting shirts, many + were very greasy, and all were heavily armed. We were about as rough a + looking set of men as one could well imagine.” When they assured the + general that they were acting under orders from Fremont, he seemed to feel + no more anxiety, gave up his keys, and arranged for the protection of the + people of his settlement. He was first taken to Fremont’s headquarters, + then for safe keeping was sent on to Sutter’s Fort. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile the party which had been left in charge of affairs at Sonoma + chose one of their number, a man named Ide, as their leader. Realizing + that they had begun a war, they felt the need of a flag, and not daring to + use that of the United States, they proceeded to make one for themselves. + For their emblem they chose the strongest and largest of the animals of + California, the grizzly bear. The flag was made of a Mexican rebosa or + scarf of unbleached muslin about a yard in width and five feet long. To + the bottom of this they sewed a strip of red flannel; in one corner they + outlined a five-pointed star, and facing it a grizzly bear. These were + filled in with red ink and under them in black letters were the words + “California Republic.” The temporary government of the followers of the + Bear Flag is generally known as the “Bear Flag Republic.” + </p> + <p> + As soon as it seemed probable that the Californians under General Castro + were marching to attack the Americans, Captain Fremont joined his + countrymen, and from that time the United States flag took the place of + the banner of the bear. A little later Captain Fremont took the presidio + and port of San Francisco, and to him is due the honor of naming beautiful + Golden Gate. + </p> + <p> + About two weeks after the capture of Sonoma, Commodore Sloat, with two + vessels of the United States navy, entered the harbor of Monterey. + Although he had come for the purpose of taking the territory for his + country, and had orders to see to it that England did not get possession + of California ahead of him, yet he had been cautioned to deal kindly with + the Californians, and he hesitated to take decided steps. It took him six + days to make up his mind, and then he came to a decision partly on account + of the actions of Fremont and his men. Slowly up the flagstaff on the fort + of Monterey rose the Stars and Stripes. Unfolded by the sea breeze, the + beautiful flag of the United States waved again over the land of the + padres, and this time to stay. A few days later Commodore Stockton reached + California to take command in place of Commodore Sloat, who returned home. + Stockton appointed Fremont commander of the American forces on land, and + together they completed the conquest of the territory. + </p> + <p> + It was unfortunate that Commodore Stockton had so lately arrived from the + East that he did not fully understand the state of affairs. As he believed + the wild rumors which, falsely, accused the Californians of treachery and + cruelty, his proclamations were harsh and unjust to the proud but kindly + people whom he was conquering. Many of the late historians find much to + blame in the treatment given by the Americans to the people of California. + Severity was often used when kindness would have had far better effect. + </p> + <p> + Los Angeles and San Diego were taken by Stockton and Fremont without any + fighting, and leaving a few troops in the south, both commanders returned + to Monterey. They were soon recalled by the news that the people of Los + Angeles had risen against the harsh rule of Captain Gillespie, who had + been left in command; that the Americans had surrendered but had been + allowed to retire to San Pedro, and that all the south was in a state of + active rebellion. + </p> + <p> + Landing at San Pedro, Stockton waited a few days, then fearing the enemy + was too strong for his forces, sailed away to San Diego. Here the + Americans received a hearty welcome, and much-needed assistance, from the + Spanish families of Bandini and Arguello. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Bandini escorted a body of the United States troops to his home rancho + on the peninsula of Lower California, where he gave them cattle and other + food supplies. For this aid to the invaders he was forced to remove his + family from their home there, and on the journey up to San Diego. Mrs. + Bandini made what was probably the first American flag ever constructed in + California. As they neared San Diego the officer in command discovered + that he had neglected to take with him a flag. He did not wish to enter + the settlement without one, and when the matter was explained to Mrs. + Bandini, who was journeying in a carreta with her maids and children, she + offered to supply the need. + </p> + <p> + From the handbag on her arm came needle, thimble, thread, and scissors, + and from the clothing of her little ones the necessary red, white, and + blue cloth. Under the direction of the young officer she soon had a very + fair-looking flag, and beneath its folds the party marched into the town. + That night the band of the flagship Congress serenaded Mrs. Bandini in her + San Diego home, and the next day Commodore Stockton called to thank her in + person. The flag, it is said, he sent to Washington, where it is still to + be found with other California trophies. + </p> + <p> + The most severe battle of the war in the state of California was fought on + the San Pasqual rancho in San Diego County. The forces engaged were those + of General Andres Pico, who commanded the Californians, and General + Stephen Kearny, who had marched overland, entered the territory on the + southwest, and was on his way to join Stockton. Hearing that the country + was conquered and the fighting over, the American officer had sent back + about two hundred of his men, but he was afterward reinforced by Captain + Gillespie and fifty men sent by Stockton to meet him. Several American + officers were killed in the battle of San Pasqual, and their brave + commander severely wounded. + </p> + <p> + Commodore Stockton, on his march from San Diego to Los Angeles, twice + engaged the enemy, once at the crossing of the San Gabriel River and once + on the Laguna rancho just east of the city. The Californians behaved with + great bravery. All of them were poorly armed, many having only lances and + no fire-arms, and what powder they had was almost worthless; yet three + times they dashed upon the square of steadily firing United States + marines. + </p> + <p> + This was the last battle in the territory. The Californians retreated + across the hills to the present site of Pasadena. Here, at the little + adobe house on the banks of the Arroyo Seco, they separated. General + Flores, their commander, was to ride with his staff through the stormy + night, down El Camino Real toward Mexico. General Andres Pico, upon whom + devolved the duty of surrender, was to ride with his associates to the old + Cahuenga ranch house, the first station on the highway from Los Angeles to + Santa Barbara. There he met Captain Fremont, and the treaty was signed + which closed hostilities. The terms proposed by Fremont were favorable for + the Californians and did much to make way for a peaceful settlement of all + difficulties. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VII. — At the Touch of King Midas + </h2> + <p> + It was by chance that gold was discovered in both northern and southern + California, and by chance that many great fortunes were made. + </p> + <p> + Juan Lopez, foreman of the little ranch of St. Francis in Los Angeles + County, one morning in March, 1842, while idly digging up a wild onion, or + brodecia, discovered what he thought lumps of gold clinging to its roots. + Taking samples of the metal, he rode down to Los Angeles to the office of + Don Abel Stearns, who recognized it as gold. + </p> + <p> + Soon Juan and his companions were busy digging and washing the earth and + sands in the region where the little wild flowers grew. These mines were + called “placer,” from a Spanish word meaning loose or moving about, + because the metal was loosely mixed with sand and gravel, generally in the + bed of a stream or in a ravine where there had once been a flow of water + which had brought the gold down from its home in the mountains. + </p> + <p> + From these mines Don Abel Stearns sent, in a sailing vessel round Cape + Horn, the first parcel of California gold dust ever received at the United + States mint, and it proved to be of very good quality. + </p> + <p> + The San Fernando mines, as they were called, because they were on a ranch + that had once belonged to San Fernando mission, yielded many thousand + dollars’ worth of gold dust. It is on record that one firm in Los Angeles, + which handled most of the gold from these and other mines of southern + California, paid out in the course of twenty years over two million + dollars for southern gold. + </p> + <p> + The true golden touch, however, was to come in a different part of the + territory among people of another race and tongue. It was to transform + California from an almost unknown land with slight and scattered + population to a community so rich as to disturb the money markets of the + world; a community sheltering a great host of people, all young, all + striving eagerly for the fortunes they had traveled thousands of miles to + find. + </p> + <p> + After the signing of the treaty of Cahuenga between Colonel Fremont and + General Pico, the Spanish-speaking people settled down quietly and + peacefully. The only disagreements were between the American leaders, + General Kearny and Commodore Stockton, and between Kearny and Fremont, who + had been appointed by Stockton military governor of the territory. This + appointment General Kearny disputed. General Vallejo tells in one of his + letters of having received on the same day communication from Kearny, + Stockton, and Fremont, each signing himself commander-in-chief. + </p> + <p> + Whoever was right in the quarrel, Fremont was the chief sufferer, for + General Kearny, after Stockton left, ordered him to return East under + arrest and at Washington to undergo a military trial or court-martial for + mutiny and disobedience of orders. Although the court found him guilty and + sentenced him to be dismissed from the army, the President, remembering + his services in the exploration of the West, and quite possibly thinking + him not the person most to blame, pardoned and restored him to his + position. Fremont, feeling that he had done nothing wrong, refused the + pardon and resigned from the army. The next year the new President, + Taylor, showed his opinion of the matter by appointing Fremont to conduct + the important work of establishing the boundaries between the United + States and Mexico. + </p> + <p> + General Kearny, when he departed for the East, left Colonel Mason, of the + regular army, as military governor of California. Mason chose as his + adjutant, or secretary, a young lieutenant named Sherman, who, years + later, in the Civil War, by his wonderful march through the heart of the + South, came to be considered one of the greatest generals of his time. + </p> + <p> + Soon after the Mexican war many settlers were gathered about Sutter’s Fort + and San Francisco Bay. There were about two thousand Americans, most of + them strong, hardy men, all overjoyed that the territory was in the hands + of the United States and all eager to know what would finally be decided + in regard to it. Reports kept arriving of parties of emigrants that were + about to start overland for California. + </p> + <p> + “They are as certain to come as that the sun will rise to-morrow,” said + genial Captain Sutter, “and as the overland trail ends at my rancho, I + must be ready to furnish them provisions. They are always hungry when they + get there, especially the tired little children, and the only thing for me + to do is to build a flour mill to grind my grain.” + </p> + <p> + “Well and good,” said James Marshall, one of his assistants, an American + by birth, a millwright by trade; “but to build a flour mill requires + lumber, and lumber calls for a sawmill.” + </p> + <p> + “We will build it, too,” said Sutter. “Take a man and provisions and go up + toward the mountains; there must be good places on my land. I leave it all + in your hands.” The place was found on a swift mountain stream. Near the + present site of Coloma, in the midst of pine forests, on the water soon to + be so well known as the American River, the sawmill was located. Marshall + also marked out a rough wagon road forty-five miles long down to the fort. + Captain Sutter was delighted. + </p> + <p> + “Set to work as soon as you like, Marshall,” he exclaimed. “This is your + business.” Soon the mill was built and almost ready for use. + </p> + <p> + “You may let the water into the mill race to-night,” said Marshall to his + men. “I want to test it and also to carry away some of the loose dirt in + the bed.” + </p> + <p> + Down came the water with a rush, carrying off before it the loose earth; + all night it ran, leaving the race with a clean, smooth bed. The next day, + Monday, January 24, 1848,—wonderful day for California—James + Marshall went out to look at the mill race to see if everything was ready + to begin work. + </p> + <p> + “To-morrow,” thought he, “we will commence sawing, and put things through + as fast as possible. The men are waiting, we have plenty of trees down, + there is nothing to hinder;” but at that moment as he walked beside the + bed of the tail race he saw some glittering yellow particles among its + sands. He stopped and picked one up. The golden touch had come. + </p> + <p> + The following is Marshall’s own description as published in the Century + Magazine (Vol. 41). “It made my heart thump, for I was certain it was + gold. Yet it did not seem to be of the right color; all the gold coin I + had seen was of a reddish tinge; this looked more like brass. I recalled + to mind all the metals I had seen or heard of, but I could find none that + resembled this. Suddenly the idea flashed across my mind that it might be + iron pyrites. I trembled to think of it.” + </p> + <p> + Finally, to make sure, Marshall, like Juan Lopez, mounted his horse and + rode away to find some one with more knowledge than himself. That some one + was Captain Sutter, who looked in his encyclopedia, probably the only one + in the territory at that time, and by comparing the weight of the metal + with the weight of an equal bulk of water found its specific gravity, + which proved it to be gold. Still Sutter thought that he should like + better authority. General Sherman, in Memoirs, tells how the news came to + Monterey, where, he was the governor’s gay young military secretary:— + </p> + <p> + “I remember one day, in the spring of 1848, that two men, Americans, came + into the office and inquired for the Governor. I asked their business, and + one answered that they had just come down from Captain Sutter on special + business and they wanted to see Governor Mason in person. I took them in + to the colonel and left them together. After some time the colonel came to + his door and called to me. I went in and my attention was directed to a + series of papers unfolded on his table, in which lay about half an ounce + of placer gold. + </p> + <p> + “Mason said tome, ‘What is that?’ I touched it and examined one or two of + the larger pieces and asked, ‘Is it gold?’ I said that if that were gold + it could be easily tested, first by its malleability and next by acids. I + took a piece in my teeth and the metallic lustre was perfect. I then + called to the clerk, Baden, to bring in an ax and hatchet from the + backyard. When these were brought, I took the largest piece and beat it + out flat, and beyond doubt it was metal and a pure metal. Still we + attached little importance to the fact, for gold was known to exist at San + Fernando at the south and yet was not considered of much value.” + </p> + <p> + About this time some of the business men who had settled in the little + town of Yerba Buena, finding that all ships that entered the harbor were + sent by their owners not to Yerba Buena, of which they knew nothing, but + to San Francisco, persuaded the town council to change the name of the + settlement from Yerba Buena to San Francisco, which was already the name + of the mission and presidio. + </p> + <p> + “Gold! Gold!! Gold!!! from the American River,” cried a horseman from the + mines, riding down Market Street, waving his hat in one hand, a bottle of + gold dust in the other. + </p> + <p> + When words like these dropped from the lips of a messenger in any of the + little communities, the result was like a powerful explosion. Everybody + scattered, not wounded and dying, however, but full of life, ready to + endure anything, risk anything, for the sake of finding the precious metal + which enables its owner to have for himself and those he loves the + comfortable and beautiful things of the world. + </p> + <p> + The result at San Francisco is thus described in one of its newspapers of + 1848: “Stores are closed, places of business vacated, a number of houses + tenantless, mechanical labor suspended or given up entirely, nowhere the + pleasant hum of industry salutes the ear as of late; but as if a curse had + arrested our onward course of enterprise, everything wears a desolate, + sombre look. All through the Sundays the little church on the plaza is + silent. All through the week the door of the alcalde’s office remains + locked. As for the shipping, it is left at anchor; first sailors, then + officers departing for the mines.” + </p> + <p> + And how was it at the logging camp where Marshall made his great + discovery? The new sawmill, built with such high hopes, was soon silent + and deserted. No more logs were cut, and no lumber hauled down for the + flour mill. There were no men to be found who were willing to cut and saw + logs, build mills, or put in the spring wheat when they might be finding + their fortunes at the mines. + </p> + <p> + The newly arrived emigrants suffered no doubt from hunger; maybe the + children cried for bread; but most of the men, as soon as they had rested + a little and knew what was going on, got together money enough to buy the + simple implements of knife, pan, pick, and cradle, which were all the + tools necessary for the easy placer mining of those days, and joined the + endless procession of those who were pushing up toward the streams and + canyons round Sutter’s famous sawmill. + </p> + <p> + As summer came on, the excitement became intense. Not only from the region + around San Francisco Bay, but from San Diego and Los Angeles, people came + flocking to the mines. Reports were current of men finding hundreds of + dollars’ worth of gold a day, gaining a fortune in a few weeks. It was + almost impossible to hire laborers either in San Francisco or on the + ranches. Even the soldiers caught the gold fever and deserted. + </p> + <p> + In the summer, Governor Mason and Lieutenant Sherman visited the mines. + Upon their return to Monterey, having seen for themselves that many even + of the wildest rumors were true, they made arrangements to send on to + Washington official announcement of the discovery. + </p> + <p> + How this was accomplished is interesting. A lieutenant of the army was + appointed by the governor for the important office, and a can of sample + gold was purchased. + </p> + <p> + The only vessel on the coast ready for departure was a boat bound for + Peru. On this ship the lieutenant with his pot of gold and the governor’s + report embarked at Monterey. He reached the Peruvian port just in time to + catch the British steamer back to Panama. Crossing the Isthmus on + horseback, he took a steamer for Kingston, Jamaica. There he found a + vessel just leaving for New Orleans. Reaching that city he at once + telegraphed the news to Washington, trusting it would be in time to form + part of the President’s message. + </p> + <p> + On December 5, 1848, the President, in his message to Congress, after + speaking of the discovery of gold in California, said, “The accounts of + the abundance of gold in that territory are of such extraordinary + character as would scarcely command belief but for the authentic reports + of officers in the public service who have visited the mineral districts + and drew the facts which they detail from personal observation.” + </p> + <p> + The certainty that the wonderful reports of the gold country were true, + electrified not only the whole country but the whole civilized world. + Large numbers of people began immediate preparation for making the + overland journey as soon as the weather should permit; while others, too + impatient to wait, left for California by the way of the Isthmus. + </p> + <p> + In February, 1849, there arrived at Monterey the Panama, the first + steamboat to visit the coast. The whole population turned out to see and + welcome it. The Californians as they compared it with the stately frigates + and ships they had been accustomed to see, exclaimed, “How ugly!” Although + it was not a beautiful vessel, its arrival was an event of great + importance, for it was the first of a line of steamers which were under + contract to ply monthly between San Francisco and Panama, and with its + coming began such an immigration as the world has seldom known. + </p> + <p> + In 1849 nearly twenty-five thousand people came by land and almost as many + more by sea, from the States alone. There were between thirty and forty + thousand from other parts of the world. + </p> + <p> + San Francisco at the time of the discovery had about seven hundred + inhabitants, and shortly after only the population of a hamlet, because so + many had gone to the gold fields. Now it suddenly found itself called upon + to give shelter to thousands of people bound for the mines, and many also + returning, some successful, others penniless and eager to get work at the + very high wages offered, sometimes as much as thirty dollars a day. + </p> + <p> + There were streets to be surveyed, houses and warehouses to be built, + lumber and brick to be provided. People were living in tents, in brush + houses, even in shelter made by four upright green poles over which were + spread matting and old bedding. Hundreds of ships lay helpless in the + harbor waiting for crews, often for men to unload the cargoes. No longer + could the papers complain of lack of business. The town was like a hive, + but such a disorderly one as would have driven wild any colony of bees. + </p> + <p> + All was mud flats or water where are now the water front and some of the + leading business streets of the city. On these flats old unseaworthy + vessels were drawn up and did duty side by side with rough board buildings + as dwellings and stores. In the rainy seasons the streets were lakes of + mud where mules and drays were sometimes literally submerged. The arrival + of the mail steamer was the event of the month to this host of people so + far away from home and loved ones. Guns were fired, bells rang to announce + the approach of the vessel, then there was a wild rush to the post office, + where the long lines of men, most of them wearing flannel shirts, wide + hats, and high boots, extended far down the street. Very high prices were + sometimes paid, as high even as one hundred dollars, by a late corner to + buy from some one lucky enough to be near the head of the line a position + near the delivery window. Then if no letter came, how great was the + disappointment! + </p> + <p> + One man thus described the mines:— + </p> + <p> + “I was but a lad and my party took me along only because I had a knack at + cooking and was willing to do anything in order to see the place where + such wonderful fortunes were made. It was a hot summer afternoon when, + crossing a region of low, thinly wooded hills, we looked down upon + American River; away to the east were high mountain ranges, their peaks, + although it was still August, snow-tipped. + </p> + <p> + “From them came swiftly down the already famous river. Its volume was + evidently diminished from the heat, and along its gravelly bed men were + digging the sand and gravel into buckets. As I reached them and watched + them work I was greatly disappointed. It seemed like very ordinary dirt + they were handling; I saw no gleam of the yellow sands of which I had + heard such stories. I followed one of the men who carried the buckets of + earth to something that looked very like our family cradle with the + footboard knocked out. Where the slats might have been there was nailed a + piece of sheet iron punched full of holes. Above this was a chute in which + the dirt was emptied. The cradle was then rocked violently while water was + poured over its contents. The lighter earth and gravel were carried away, + while the gold, being heavier, rested either on the sheet iron or between + the slats on the cradle bottom. + </p> + <p> + “Some of the men had no cradle, only a large pan made of sheet iron. This + pan, when half filled with dirt, was sunk in the water and shaken sidewise + until the dirt and gravel were washed away and only heavy grains of gold + remained. There were enough of these to make my eyes open wide. The men + who had the cradle were making pretty steadily from eighteen to twenty + dollars a day apiece. + </p> + <p> + “After a day or two I visited the dry diggings. Here I saw things that + were more astonishing to me than anything that I had seen at the placer + mines. Some men were at work in a little canyon, and I sat on the bowlder + and watched them digging into the earth with their knives and picking up + every few minutes spoons of earth in which there were plainly visible + little lumps of gold the size of a pea. This was considered a rich find; + the men were joyful over their success. Suddenly one of the older ones, + looking up at me, sang out:— + </p> + <p> + “Say, Sonny, why do you sit there idle? Out with that bread knife of yours + and dig for your fortune. Across this ridge is another ravine. It may be + like this. Try your luck, anyway.’ + </p> + <p> + “Somehow, until that moment, it had not entered my boyish mind, that I + might join this great mad race for wealth. I sprang to my feet. My heart + began to pound faster than it did on the glorious day when in my boyhood + home I had won the mile race at the county fair. There was a singing in my + ears; for the minute I could scarcely breathe. I had heard of the gold + fever, and now I had caught it. + </p> + <p> + “I dashed up the hillside, fairly rolled down into the rocky little valley + beyond, and began to dig wildly; but I found only good honest earth, rich + noble soil so like our fertile bottom lands at home. My spirits began to + sink, my heart to resume its natural beats. I worked half an hour or so + without finding any sign, as it was called, and began to feel discouraged. + In the canyon, which was very narrow, a large bowlder blocked my progress. + I determined to dig it loose. This was the work of some time, but finally + I succeeded in dislodging it, and drawing up my legs out of its way + watched with a youngster’s delight its wild dash down the mountain side to + the stream far below. + </p> + <p> + “Slowly I turned to resume my work, but what I saw brought me to my feet + with a yell. The socket where the stone had rested was dotted with yellow + lumps of gold as big as a pea, some even larger. Down I went upon my knees + and I fell to work with a will—the strength of a man seemed in my + arms. Off came my coat, and spreading it out I scooped the rich dirt into + it by the handful. I had happened on a pocket, as it was called; a turn in + the bed of some old mountain stream. The dirt from this when washed + yielded me about five hundred dollars, but it was all except cook’s wages + that I ever made at the mines. + </p> + <p> + “Before I left the gold fields I saw some small attempt at hydraulic + mining which later proved so successful. From a stream up in a canyon some + enterprising men had built a log flume and connected with it a large hose + and nozzle they had brought up from the coast. Turning the water in this + on a dry hill rich in gold deposit, they easily and rapidly washed the + dirt down into a sluice or trough below. This had bars nailed across, and + water running through carried the dirt away while the gold dropped into + the crevices between the bars.” This method of mining and also quartz + mining, that is, digging gold and other metals from rock, is described in + another chapter. + </p> + <p> + The gold-bearing earth extended along the west slope of the Sierra Nevada + and their base, from Feather River on the north to the Merced River on the + south, a territory about thirty miles wide by two hundred and fifty long. + In this district are still some of the richest mines in the world. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VIII. — The Great Stampede + </h2> + <p> + The rush of people to the Pacific coast after the gold discovery may well + be called a stampede. The terrible overland journey, over thousands of + miles of Indian country, across high mountains and wide stretches of + desert, was often undertaken with poor cattle, half the necessary supplies + of food, and but little knowledge of the route. On the other hand, those + who preferred going by water would embark in any vessel, however unsafe, + sailing from Atlantic ports to the Isthmus. + </p> + <p> + In New York the excitement was especially great. Every old ship that could + be overhauled and by means of fresh paint made to look seaworthy was gayly + dressed in bunting and advertised to sail by the shortest and safest route + to California. The sea trip is thus described by an elderly gentleman who + made the journey when a boy of ten:— + </p> + <p> + “Together with the news of the discovery of gold came also reports of a + warm, sunny land which winter never visited, where life could be spent in + the open air,—a favorable spot where sickness was almost unknown. It + was, I think, as much on account of my mother’s health as to make his + fortune that my father decided to go to California. The water route was + chosen as being easier for her. + </p> + <p> + “The saying good-by to our relatives had been hard; but by the time we + were three miles from home we children ceased to grieve, so interested + were we in new sights and experiences. + </p> + <p> + “I had never seen salt water until that morning in New York, when we + boarded the gayly trimmed brig, the Jane Dawson, which was to carry us to + the Isthmus. To my sister and myself it was a real grief that our vessel + had not a more romantic name. We decided to call it the Sea Slipper, from + a favorite story, and the Sea Slipper it has always been to us. + </p> + <p> + “On the deck there were so many unhappy partings that we became again + downhearted, a feeling which was intensified in the choppy seas of the + outer bay to the utter misery of mind and body. We got ourselves somehow + into our berths, where, with mother for company, we remained for many + hours. Finally the sea grew calmer and we were just beginning to enjoy + ourselves when off Cape Hatteras a severe storm broke upon us. The vessel + pitched and rolled; the baggage and boxes of freight tumbled about, + threatening the lives of those who were not kept to their berths by + illness. + </p> + <p> + “Although I was not seasick I dared not go about much. One night, however, + growing tired of the misery around me, I crawled over to the end of the + farther cabin, which seemed to be deserted. Presently the captain and my + father came down the stairs and I heard the officer say in a hoarse + whisper. ‘I will not deceive you, Mr. Hunt; the mainmast is down, the + steering gear useless, the crew is not up to its business, and I fear we + cannot weather the night!’ I almost screamed aloud in my fright, but just + then a long, lanky figure rose from the floor where it had been lying. It + was one of the passengers, a typical Yankee. + </p> + <p> + “‘See here, captain,’ he said, ‘my chum and I are ship carpenters, and the + other man of our party is one of the best sailors of the Newfoundland + fleet; just give us a chance to help you, and maybe we needn’t founder yet + awhile.’ The chance was given, and we did not founder. + </p> + <p> + “Some days later we anchored in the harbor of Chagres. There were many + vessels in the bay, and a large number of people waiting to secure passage + across the Isthmus. They crowded around the landing place of the river + canoes and fought and shouted until we children were frightened at the + uproar, and taking our hands mother retired to the shade of some trees to + wait. + </p> + <p> + “It was almost night when father called to us to come quickly, as he had a + boat engaged for us. It lay at the landing, a long canoe, in one end of + which our things were already stored. Some men who were friends of + father’s and had joined our party stood beside it with revolvers in hand + watching to see that no one claimed the canoe or coaxed the boatmen away. + Mother and Sue were quickly tucked beneath the awning, the rest of us + tumbled in where we could, and at once our six nearly naked negro boatmen + pushed out the boat and began working it up the stream by means of long + poles which they placed on the bottom of the river bed, thus propelling us + along briskly but with what seemed to me great exertion. + </p> + <p> + “To us children the voyage was most interesting. On either side the banks + were covered with such immense trees as we had never dreamed of. The ferns + were more like trees than plants, and the colors of leaves and flowers so + gorgeous they were dazzling. The fruits were many and delicious, but our + father was very careful about our eating, and would not allow us to + indulge as we desired. + </p> + <p> + “The night came on as suddenly as though a great bowl had been turned over + us. For an hour or more we watched with delight the brilliant fireflies + illuminating all the atmosphere except at the end of the boat, where the + red light of a torch lit the scene. After we had lain down for the night + the moon rose and I could not enough admire the beauty of the tropical + foliage, with the silvery moonlight incrusting every branch and leaf. + </p> + <p> + “The second day we left the boats and took mules for the rest of the + journey. To my delight I was allowed an animal all to myself. Sue rode in + a chair strapped to the back of a native, and our luggage was taken in the + same manner, the porters carrying such heavy loads that it did not seem + possible they could make the journey. + </p> + <p> + “To my sister and me, the city of Panama was amazingly beautiful, with its + pearl oyster shells glittering on steeple and bell tower, and the dress of + the people as magnificent as the costumes described in the ‘Arabian + Nights.’ In Panama we waited a long time for a steamer. The town was + crowded and many people were ill. My mother was constantly helping some + one until my father forbade her to visit any stranger, because cholera had + broken out and many were dying. + </p> + <p> + “It was a joyful morning when we boarded the steamer California, steamed + out on the blue Pacific, and headed northward. We had more comfortable + quarters and better food than when on the Atlantic; but never on the + steamer did we feel the sense of grandeur and power that came to us on the + brig when, with white sails all set, she rushed like a bird before the + wind. + </p> + <p> + “Toward the close of the voyage there was so much fog that our captain did + not know just whereabouts we were, and for that reason kept well out to + sea. One morning there came a rap at the stateroom door, and a loud voice + cried, ‘Wake up, we shall be in San Francisco in less than an hour.’ What + a time of bustle followed! The sea was rough. Sue and I fell over each + other and the valises in our eagerness to get dressed. I, being a boy, was + out first. The sun was shining as though it was making up for the days it + was hidden from us. The water was blue and sparkling, the air warm and + delightful after the cold, foggy weather. + </p> + <p> + “We were steaming due east, and almost before I knew it we had passed + through Golden Gate and were in the quiet water of the bay. By the time + mother and Sue were on deck, we were nearing the wharf. I thought then + that San Francisco was rather disappointing in its looks, with its + unpainted houses of all kinds of architecture, and the streets like + washouts in the hills, but soon I learned to love it with a faithfulness + which was felt by many of the pioneers and will end only with life.” + </p> + <p> + Such were some of the hardships and discomforts endured by those who + traveled to California by water during the period of the gold excitement. + Yet those who made the journey by land often suffered even more. + </p> + <p> + The first immigrant train to California started in 1841. + </p> + <p> + It brought among its members a young man named Bidwell, afterward United + States representative from California. Describing this journey in the + Century Magazine (Vol. 41), Mr. Bidwell says:— + </p> + <p> + “The party consisted of sixty-nine persons. Each one furnished his own + supplies of not less than a barrel of flour, sugar, and other rations in + proportion. I doubt whether there was a hundred dollars in money in the + whole party, but all were anxious to go. + </p> + <p> + “Our ignorance of the route was complete. We knew that California lay + west, and that was all. Some of the maps consulted and supposed to be + correct showed a lake in the vicinity of where we now know Salt Lake to + be, that was three or four hundred miles in length, with two outlets, both + running into the Pacific Ocean, either apparently larger than the + Mississippi River. We were advised to take along tools to make canoes, so + that if we found the country too rough for our wagons, we could descend + one of these rivers to the Pacific.” It was two years later that Fremont, + the pathfinder and roadmaker of the West, surveyed the great Salt Lake and + made a map of it. The Bidwell party after many hardships reached + California in safety. + </p> + <p> + The unhappy Donner party, also home seekers, made the journey in 1848. + They lost their way and became snow-bound in the mountains. A number of + them died from cold and starvation, but the remainder were rescued by + relief parties sent out from Sutter’s Fort. Their sufferings were too + terrible to be told, and yet they started with fair hopes and as excellent + an outfit as any party that ever crossed the plains. The following is from + an account of the journey written by one of their number for the Century + Magazine (Vol. 42):— + </p> + <p> + “I was a child,” says Virginia Reed Murphy, “when we started for + California, yet I remember the journey well. Our wagons were all made to + order, and I can say truthfully that nothing like the Reed family wagon + ever started across the plains. The entrance was on the side, and one + stepped into a small space like a room, in the center of the wagon. On the + right and left were comfortable spring seats, and here was also a little + stove whose pipe, which ran through the top of the wagon, was prevented by + a circle of tin from setting fire to the canvas. A board about a foot wide + extended over the wheels on either side, the full length of the wagon, + thus forming the foundation of a large roomy second story on which were + placed our beds; under the spring seats were compartments where we stored + the many things useful for such a journey. Besides this we had two wagons + with provisions. + </p> + <p> + “The family wagon was drawn by four yoke of choice oxen, the others by + three yoke. Then we had saddle horses and cows, and last of all my pony. + He was a beauty, and his name was Billy. The chief pleasure to which I + looked forward in crossing the plains was to ride on my pony every day. + But a day came when I had no pony to ride, for the poor little fellow gave + out. He could not endure the hardships of ceaseless travel. When I was + forced to part with him, I cried as I sat in the back of the wagon + watching him become smaller and smaller as we drove on until I could not + see him any more. But this grief did not come to me until I had enjoyed + many happy weeks with my pet. + </p> + <p> + “Never can I forget the morning when we bade farewell to our kindred and + friends. My father, with tears in his eyes, tried to smile as one friend + after another grasped his hand in a last farewell. My mother was overcome + with grief. At last we were all in the wagon, the drivers cracked their + whips, the oxen moved slowly forward, the long journey had begun. + </p> + <p> + “The first Indians we met were the Caws, who kept the ferry and had to + take us over the Caw River. I watched them closely, hardly daring to draw + my breath, feeling sure that they would sink the boat in the middle of the + stream, and very thankful I was when I found that they were not like the + Indians in grandmamma’s stories. + </p> + <p> + “When we reached the Blue River, Kansas, the water was so high that the + men made rafts of logs twenty-five feet in length, united by cross + timbers. Ropes were attached to both ends and by these the rafts were + pulled back and forth. The banks of the stream being steep, our + heavy-laden wagons had to be let down carefully with ropes so that the + wheels might run into the hollow between the logs. This was a dangerous + task, for in the wagons were the women and children, who could cross the + rapid stream in no other way. + </p> + <p> + “After striking the great valley of the Platte the road was good, the + country beautiful. Stretching out before us as far as the eye could reach + was a valley as green as emerald, dotted here and there with flowers of + every imaginable color. Here flowed the grand old Platte—a wide, + shallow stream. This part of our journey was an ideal pleasure trip. How I + enjoyed riding my pony, galloping over the plain gathering wild flowers! + At night the young folks would gather about the camp fire chattering + merrily, and often a song would be heard or some clever dancer would give + us a jig on the hind door of a wagon. + </p> + <p> + “In the evening, when we rode into camp, our wagons were placed so as to + form a circle or corral, into which, after they had been allowed to graze, + the cattle were driven to prevent the Indians from stealing them. The camp + fire and the tents were placed on the outside of this square. There were + many expert riflemen in the party, and we never lacked game. I witnessed + many a buffalo hunt and more than once was in the chase close behind my + father. For weeks buffalo and antelope steaks were the main article on our + bill of fare, and our appetites were a marvel.” The Reed family was the + only one belonging to the Donner party, it is said, who made the terrible + journey without losing a member. + </p> + <p> + To the young people and men there was often much pleasure in crossing the + continent in a prairie schooner, as the white-covered emigrant wagon was + called; but to the women it was another matter, since they had to ride + constantly in a wagon, attend to the little children, and do the cooking, + often under great difficulties. Many of them learned to be experts in camp + cooking, requiring nothing more than a little hollow in the hard ground + for a range; or if there were plenty of stones, the cooking place might be + built up a little. Over this simple contrivance, with the aid of a couple + of iron crossbars, a kettle, a frying pan, and coffee pot, many a + delicious meal was easily and quickly prepared. + </p> + <p> + Mrs. Hecox, in the Overland Monthly, says: “I am sure the men never + realized how hard a time the women had. Of course the men worked hard too, + but after their day’s travel was over they sat around the camp fire, + smoked, and told stories, while the women were tending the children, + mending clothes, and making ready for the next day’s meals. + </p> + <p> + “After we crossed the Mississippi, it commenced raining, and for days we + splashed through the mud and slush. When we camped at night, we had to + wade about and make some kind of shelter for our fires, and I was obliged + to keep the children cooped up in the wagons. Here let me say that I never + heard an unkind word spoken among the women all the way across the plain. + The children were good, too, and never out of humor either, unless some + cross man scolded them. + </p> + <p> + “At one place a drove of buffalo ran into our train and gave us a bad + scare. I was in the wagon behind ours attending a sick woman when I saw + the drove coming. I knew the children would be frightened to death without + me, so I jumped from the wagon and ran, but I was too late. Finding that I + had no time to get into the wagon, I crawled under it, where a wounded + buffalo cow tried to follow me. I kicked her in the head as I clung to the + coupling pole, and somehow broke my collar bone.” + </p> + <p> + As soon as the grass began to get green in the spring of 1849, after the + news of the discovery of gold reached the States, the overland march + began. In white-covered emigrant wagons, in carts, on horses, mules, even + on foot, came the eager gold seekers. How poorly prepared were many of + them, it would be hard to believe. They were a brave and hardy company of + people, but they suffered much. It is estimated that at least eight or ten + thousand of the young, strong men died before the year was over. Many of + these deaths were due to overwork and exposure, to the lack of the + necessaries of life at the mines, also to the fact that a great many of + the gold seekers were clever, educated people, quite unused to extreme + poverty, and therefore lacking in the strength that comes from + self-denial. + </p> + <p> + Those who remained formed the best material for the making of the state. + To this class belonged those who endowed the two great universities which + are now the glory of California. For many years the highest position in + public life was held by men who came to the Golden State over the plains + or by the uncomfortable ocean route in the days of ‘49. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IX. — The Birth of the Golden Baby + </h2> + <p> + The birth of the Golden Baby, in other words, the coming of the Golden + State into the Union, was a time of struggle and uncertainty, when + feelings were deeply stirred and hope deferred caused bitter + disappointment. When the treaty of peace with Mexico was ratified by + Congress it left the Pacific coast settlements in a strange position—a + territory containing thousands of people, with more coming by hundreds, + but with no legally appointed rulers. + </p> + <p> + As soon as Congress accepted the treaty, the military governor ceased to + have any power, for there was then no longer a state of war; yet he was + still obeyed by courtesy, until some one with a better right took his + place. The only other official was the local alcalde of each community. + This was a Mexican office, but was at that time often filled by an + American who had, perhaps, been in the territory only a few months and + knew nothing of Mexican laws, but ran things as well as he could after the + Eastern fashion. + </p> + <p> + The Rev. Mr. Colton, chaplain of the warship Congress, was made alcalde of + Monterey, and his book on those times is most interesting. + </p> + <p> + “My duties,” said he, “are similar to those of the mayor of an Eastern + city, but with no such aid of courts as he enjoys. I am supreme in every + breach of peace, case of crime, disputed land title, over a space of three + hundred miles. Such an absolute disposal of questions affecting property + and personal liberty never ought to be confided to one man.” + </p> + <p> + The country owed much to Mr. Colton’s work while alcalde. He soon gained + the confidence of law-abiding residents, but was a terror to evil doers. + Those he put to work quarrying stone and building the solid structure + afterward named Colton’s Hall. Here one of the first of California’s + schools was opened, and here was held the first convention. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps the truth that “as a man sows, so shall he reap,” that a wrong + action is apt to bring its own punishment, was never more plainly shown + than in the Mexican war. The war was brought upon the United States in a + great degree by those interested in slavery, not because they had any just + cause of quarrel with the people of Mexico, but because they wanted more + territory where slaves could be held. + </p> + <p> + California, which was the name generally given to all the country + extending from Mexico northward to Oregon and the Louisiana Purchase, and + eastward from the Pacific Ocean to Texas, was what they really fought for, + and when they got it, it became their undoing. When a commissioner went to + Mexico to arrange for peace, he demanded California for the United States. + As is usual, the conquered had to yield to the victor, and Mexico agreed, + “provided the United States would promise not to permit slavery in the + territory thus acquired.” + </p> + <p> + “No,” replied Mr. Trist, the American commissioner, “the bare mention of + such a thing is an impossibility. No American president would dare present + such a treaty to the Senate.” + </p> + <p> + The Mexican authorities persisted, saying the prospect of the introduction + of slavery into a territory gained from them excited the strongest + feelings of abhorrence in the hearts of the Mexican people, but the + American commissioner made no promise. + </p> + <p> + In the summer of 1848 the President, in a special message, called the + attention of Congress to California and asked that the laws of a territory + be granted to it. The South agreed, provided half should be slave + territory. The Northern people, who disliked slavery, had no commercial + interest in it, and felt it a disgrace to the nation, resisted this + demand. Then began a bitter struggle over California and the question of + slavery on her soil, which lasted for two years and called forth some of + the grandest speeches of those mighty leaders, Webster, Clay, and Calhoun. + </p> + <p> + In 1849, while this fight in Congress was still going on, an amendment to + tax California for revenue, and another which would result in making her a + slave state, were added to the regular appropriation bill which provided + for the expenses of government and without which the government would + stop. Congress was supposed to close its session on Saturday, March 3d, at + midnight. The new President, Taylor, was to take office on Monday. + </p> + <p> + There had been many times of excitement in that Senate chamber, but this + night, it is said by those who were present, was equal to any. Such a war + of words and a battle of great minds! Many eyes were turned to the clock + as it drew near the hour of midnight. Would the stroke of twelve dissolve + the meeting and the great government of the United States be left without + funds? + </p> + <p> + To many of the senators this seemed a certainty, but Mr. Webster insisted + that Congress could not end while they remained in session. So, through + the long night, the struggle went on. About four o’clock the amendment in + regard to slavery was withdrawn, and the bill for the government money was + passed. + </p> + <p> + Meantime the American settlers in California were extremely dissatisfied. + To be living without suitable laws was an unnatural and dangerous state of + affairs which could not be tolerated by men who loved their country and + their homes. The Spanish Californians, also, were anxious to know what + they had to expect from the laws of the United States. At last it was + decided by the people, and agreed to by the military governor, Riley, who + was a man of good judgment, that delegates should be chosen to a + convention which should arrange a state constitution and government. It + was determined, however, to wait for word from Congress, which had closed + in such tumult. + </p> + <p> + News would certainly arrive by the next steamer, the Panama, which was + long overdue. It was a favorite amusement in those days for the boys of + San Francisco to go upon the hill and watch for her coming. The 4th of + June they were rewarded by the sight of her. As she came into harbor a + large part of the population hurried to the wharf, eager to learn the + action of Congress. Was California to be a state or not? + </p> + <p> + The disappointment was great when it was found that nothing had been done + except to pass the revenue laws, which meant taxation without + representation. In the plaza and on the streets the crowds were loud in + their disapproval. The excitement was almost as great as in Boston, so + long before, when the news of the tax on tea arrived. A mass meeting was + called. + </p> + <p> + “It is plain they expect us to settle the slavery question for ourselves,” + said one. “We can do it in short order,” said another. + </p> + <p> + Monday, September 3, 1849, the constitutional convention met at Monterey. + </p> + <p> + “Recognizing the fact that there is need of more than human wisdom, in the + work of founding a state under the unprecedented condition of the + country,” says the minutes of that meeting, “the delegates voted to open + the session with prayer.” It was decided to begin each morning’s work in + this way, the Rev. S. H. Willey and Padre Ramirez officiating alternately. + </p> + <p> + There were present forty-eight delegates, seven of whom were Spanish + Californians. Of these Carrillo of the south and General Vallejo of Sonoma + were prominent. They were able men, who were used to governing and who + understood fairly well the needs of the times. Later, in the United States + Senate, Mr. Webster quoted Mr. Carrillo of “San Angeles,” as he called it. + Another delegate, Dr. Gwin, was a Southern man who had recently come to + California for the purpose of gaining the position of United States + senator and of so planning things that even though the state should be + admitted as free soil, it might later be divided and part be made slave + territory. + </p> + <p> + He depended for this upon the boundaries. If the whole great section was + admitted as California, he thought division would surely follow with the + southern part for slavery. The people, however, showed themselves opposed + to slavery in their new state, and Dr. Gwin soon found that he must either + forego his hopes of becoming senator or give way on this point. The + constitution finally adopted was that of a free state with its boundaries + as they are to-day. The new legislature chose Colonel Fremont and Dr. Gwin + senators, and they left in January, 1850, for Washington, taking the new + constitution to offer it for the approval of Congress. + </p> + <p> + While the people of the Pacific coast had been making their constitution, + Congress was in session, and the subject of California and slavery was + still troubling the nation. The discussion grew so bitter that in January + Clay brought forward his famous Omnibus Bill, so called because it was + intended to accommodate different people and parties, and contained many + measures which he thought would be so satisfactory to the senators that + they would pass the whole bill, although part of it provided for the + admission of California as a free state. + </p> + <p> + At once Southerners sprang forward to resist the measure. They realized + keenly that slavery could not hold its own if the majority of the country + became free soil. They must persist in their demand for more slave + territory, or give up their bondmen. Calhoun, the great advocate of + slavery, who was at that time ill and near his death, prepared a speech, + the last utterance of that brilliant mind, which was delivered March 4th. + He was too ill to read it, but sat, gaunt and haggard, with burning eyes, + while his friend spoke for him. It closed with the declaration that the + admission of California as a slave or a free state was the test which + would prove whether the Union should continue to exist or be broken up by + secession. If she came in free, then the South could do no less than + secede. + </p> + <p> + Three days later, March 7th, Webster delivered one of the great speeches + of his life. In it he said, “The law of nature, physical geography, and + the formation of the earth settles forever that slavery cannot exist in + California.” + </p> + <p> + Seward followed with a speech mighty in its eloquence. He said: + “California, rich and populous, is here asking admission to the Union and + finds us debating the dissolution of the Union itself. It seems to me that + the perpetual unity of the empire hangs on this day and hour. Try not the + temper and fidelity of California, nor will she abide delay. I shall vote + for the admission of California directly, without conditions, without + qualifications, and without compromise.” + </p> + <p> + On September 9, 1850, California was at last admitted. + </p> + <p> + From that time the country advanced steadily onward to the terrible period + of 1861, when the South put her threat into execution. The Civil War + followed, and the abolition of slavery; but from the sorrowful struggle + there arose a better and happier nation, a united North and South. There + are two things to be remembered: that into the new territory gained from + Mexico slavery never entered; and that the wealth which came from the + mines of California did much toward strengthening the North in the + conflict. + </p> + <p> + Over half a year the Californians had been waiting for their constitution + to be adopted, and for their representatives to be received in Congress. + Sometimes it seemed as though the good news would never come. + </p> + <p> + One October morning word came down from the lookout on Telegraph Hill: + “The Oregon is coming in covered with bunting. All her flags are flying.” + Almost at the same moment throughout the city could be heard the quick + booming of her guns as she entered the harbor. With shouts and clapping of + hands the people rushed to the wharf. Tears were pouring down the faces of + men who did not know what it was to cry; women were sobbing and laughing + by turns. The shrill cheers of the California boys rose high above all. + There was the report of guns, the cracking of pistols, the joyful pealing + of bells. New York papers sold readily at five dollars each. No more + business that day. Joy and gayety reigned. At night the city was ablaze + with fireworks and mighty bonfires, which the boys kept going until + morning. + </p> + <p> + Messengers started in every direction to carry the news. The way the word + came to San Jose was exciting. The new governor, Peter Burnett, was in San + Francisco on steamer day. On the very next morning he left for San Jose on + the stage coach of Crandall, one of the famous drivers of the West. The + stage of a rival line left at the same time. There was great excitement: a + race between two six-horse teams, with coaches decorated with flags, and + the governor on the box of one of them. + </p> + <p> + They had to creep through the heavy sands to the mission, but beyond there + they struck the hard road, and away they went, horses at a gallop, + passengers shouting and singing. As they passed through a town or by a + ranch house people ran out, aroused by the hubbub. Off went the hats of + all on the coaches. + </p> + <p> + “California has been admitted to the Union!” some one would shout in his + loudest voice, and, looking back, they would see men shaking hands and + tossing hats on high, and small boys jigging while shouts and cheers + followed them faintly as they disappeared in the distance. + </p> + <p> + Past San Bruno, San Mateo, Mayfield, they went with a rush, then swept + through Santa Clara, then at a gallop down the beautiful Alameda to San + Jose, the governor’s coach but three minutes in advance of its rival. + </p> + <p> + A few days later there was the grand ceremony of admission day, which was + described in the papers not only of this country but of England as well. + </p> + <p> + Still, after the rejoicing came a time of anxiety and sorrow. In its + treatment of the land question in California the United States made one of + the gravest mistakes ever made by a civilized nation. + </p> + <p> + The man whom the government sent out to investigate the subject, W. C. + Jones, was an able Spanish scholar, skilled in Mexican and Spanish law, + and his carefully prepared report declared that the greater part of the + rancheros had perfect title to their lands, and all that was necessary for + the United States to do was to have them resurveyed. + </p> + <p> + In Congress, Senator Benton and Senator Fremont in most points supported + this report as the only just plan. Against the bill that was finally + passed Senator Benton protested vigorously, saying that it amounted to + confiscation of the land instead of the protection promised by the + American government, through Larkin and Sloat. + </p> + <p> + This law made it necessary for every Californian, no matter how long he + had lived on his land, to prove his title to it, and that, too, while the + United States attorney resisted his claim inch by inch, as if he were a + criminal. + </p> + <p> + Thus the Spanish American, who was seldom a man of business after the + standard of the Eastern states, was forced into the distressing necessity + of fighting for what was his own, in courts, the law and language of which + he did not understand. Meantime his property was rendered hard to sell, + while taxation fell heaviest upon him because he was a large land owner. + Often, too, he would have to pay his lawyer in notes, promising to give + money when he could get it, and in the end the lawyer often got most of + the land which the United States government had left to the unhappy + Californian. + </p> + <p> + The way in which unprincipled men got the better of the rancheros would + fill a volume. Guadalupe Vallejo, in the Century Magazine (Vol. 41), tells + how a leading American squatter came to her father and said:— + </p> + <p> + “There is a large piece of your land where the cattle run loose, and your + vaqueros are all gone to the mines. I will fence the field at my own + expense if you will give me half of it.” Vallejo agreed, but when the + American had inclosed it, he entered it on the record books as government + land and kept it all. + </p> + <p> + This article also describes the losses of the ranchmen from cattle + stealing. It tells how Americans, who were afterward prosperous citizens, + were guilty of selling Spanish beef which they knew had been stolen. + </p> + <p> + The life of the Spanish-speaking people at the mines was made miserable. + The American miners seemed to feel that the Californian had no right to be + there. Of course there were some of the lower class, many of whom were + part Indian, who would lie, steal, or, if they had an opportunity, murder; + but often those who were persecuted were not of this type. A woman of + refinement, who under the title of “Shirley” wrote her experiences at the + mines, says:— + </p> + <p> + “The people of the Spanish race on Indian Bar, many of whom are highly + educated gentlemen, are disposed to bear an ill opinion of our whole + nation on account of the rough men here. They think that it is a great + characteristic of Columbia’s children to be prejudiced, selfish, + avaricious, and unjust.” + </p> + <p> + Because in a quarrel a Mexican killed a drunken miner, the men of the Bar + determined to drive away all Californians. They captured several, not the + guilty one, banished some, and two they sentenced to be flogged. Shirley + from her cabin heard what was going on. She tells how one of them, a + gentlemanly young Spaniard, begged in vain to be killed rather than be + disgraced by whipping. When, finally, he was released, he swore eternal + vengeance against the American race. + </p> + <p> + In San Francisco the disorderly state of affairs caused by the host of + criminals gathered there from all over the world, attracted by the + discovery of gold, became unendurable. On the city streets robbery and + murder were of frequent occurrence, no one was safe, and wrongdoers went + unpunished because, frequently, the officers of the law were in league + with them. At last the best citizens felt that for the sake of their homes + and families they must take matters into their own hands, so they formed + an association, seven thousand strong, which was known as the + “Vigilantes.” + </p> + <p> + Those who committed crimes were taken by this organization, and, after + careful trial, punished. Several of the worst offenders were executed, + many were banished from the country, and unjust officials were removed. + When law and order were restored, the Vigilantes disbanded. + </p> + <p> + The example of San Francisco was followed in various parts of the state, + especially in the mining camps, where there were many crimes; but not all + the Vigilantes displayed the same care and fairness as the people of the + larger city, and sometimes terrible mistakes were made, and innocent + people suffered. + </p> + <p> + With thousands of newcomers on the Pacific coast, and the long distance + between them and their homes, it was often of the greatest importance to + get their parcels and mail to them as promptly as possible. For this + reason several express companies were started and did excellent work; but + the mail route called the Pony Express was the most interesting. It is + well described by W. F. Bailey in the Century Magazine (Vol. 56). + </p> + <p> + One day in March, 1860, the following advertisement appeared in a St. + Louis paper:— + </p> + <p> + “To San Francisco in eight days. The first carrier of the Pony Express + will leave the Missouri River on Tuesday, April 3d, and will run regularly + weekly hereafter, carrying letter mail only. Telegraph mail eight days, + letters ten days to San Francisco.” + </p> + <p> + From St. Joseph, Missouri, the first start was made. A large crowd was + present to see the rider off. The same day, the same hour, the Western + mail started on the thousand-mile ride eastward. There would be ten riders + each way, with horses changed every twenty-five miles. + </p> + <p> + Both Sacramento and San Francisco were full of enthusiasm. It was planned + to give the first messenger a rousing reception when he should arrive from + the East. He was received by crowds as he galloped into Sacramento, and + hurried to a swift river steamboat which immediately started for the Bay. + News of his coming was telegraphed ahead, and was announced from the + stages of the San Francisco theaters so that when he arrived at midnight a + large number of people were awaiting him, bands were playing, and bells + were ringing; and a long procession escorted him to the company’s office. + </p> + <p> + In all, there were sixty riders of this express company, all young men, + light in weight, accomplished riders, coolheaded, and absolutely brave. + They were held in high regard by all, and with good reason. Each when he + entered the service signed this pledge:— + </p> + <p> + “I agree not to use profane language, not to get drunk, not to gamble, not + to treat animals cruelly, and not to do anything incompatible with the + conduct of a gentleman.” They also had to swear to be loyal to the Union. + </p> + <p> + The average journey of one man was seventy-five miles, this to be + accomplished in one day, but the men frequently had to double the + distance, and once, when the messenger who was waiting was killed by + Indians, “Buffalo Bill” (Mr. Cody) made the long trip of three hundred and + eighty-four miles, stopping only for meals and to change horses. + </p> + <p> + By day and by night, through rain and storm, heat and cold, they rode, + these brave men, one facing east, the other west, alone, always alone, + often chased by Indians, though, owing to their watchfulness and the + superiority of their horses, they were seldom caught. A number were, + however, killed by immigrants, who mistook them for Indians or robbers. + </p> + <p> + The great feat of the Pony Express was the delivering of Lincoln’s + inaugural address in 1861. + </p> + <p> + With the Southern states claiming to be out of the Union, people were wild + to know what the President would say. To St. Joseph, Missouri, the address + was hurried. Here it was carefully wrapped in oil skin, consigned to the + saddle bags, and amid wild cheers the express was off. Horses were waiting + every ten miles. What a ride was that! “Speed, speed! faster, faster!” was + the cry. Each man tried to do a trifle better than the last, while the + thousands on the Pacific coast seemed to be straining their ears for the + sound of the galloping hoof beats which brought nearer to them the brave + message of the grand new President. And when the last rider came in, + making the final ten miles in thirty-one minutes, what a cheer went up! + </p> + <p> + One thousand nine hundred and fifty miles in one hundred and eighty-five + hours, the message had traveled—at an average of a little more than + ten miles an hour—straight across the continent. + </p> + <p> + When we read of the speed-breaking special trains of to-day, let us not + forget what these brave men of the first overland express accomplished in + the days of ‘61. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X. — The Signal Gun and the Steel Trail + </h2> + <p> + Boom! Boom! Boom! Never in history did the firing of a gun have such a + powerful effect as that which sent the first shot at the flag of the + Union, as it floated over Fort Sumter on that memorable Friday, April 12, + 1861. + </p> + <p> + Fired at a time when most people were hoping for a peaceful outcome of the + sectional troubles, it astonished the world and stirred the whole country + to its depths. + </p> + <p> + Across the dry plains and rugged mountains of the West its echoes seemed + to roll. The startled people of the Pacific coast looked at each other + with anxious, uncertain eyes. No one felt quite sure of his neighbor, and + they were so far from the scene of action that the government could not + help them. They must settle the great question for themselves. Who was for + the Union? Who was against it? + </p> + <p> + In Washington the President and his advisers waited with keen anxiety to + learn what wealthy California would do. Senator Gwin had often spoken in + Congress and elsewhere as though it would certainly be one of the states + to secede. He and others had talked too, in a confident way, of the “Grand + Republic of the Pacific” that might be then formed out of the lands of the + Western coast. To lose this rich territory would be a terrible blow to the + Union. + </p> + <p> + From the time of California’s admission there had been a constant endeavor + on the part of Southern sympathizers to introduce slavery into its + territory. A large number of politicians, especially those holding + prominent positions, were Southerners, some of whom, like Dr. Gwin, had + come to the Pacific coast for the express purpose of winning either the + new state or some portion of it for the South and slavery. + </p> + <p> + They had succeeded in giving it a fugitive slave law that was particularly + evil. Under it a colored man or woman could be seized, brought before a + magistrate, claimed as a slave, and taken back South without being allowed + to testify in his or her own behalf. Neither could a colored person give + testimony in a criminal case against one who was white. + </p> + <p> + Opposed to this strong Southern party one man stood almost alone as the + friend of free labor and free soil. This man was David C. Broderick. For + years he fought the slavery interests inch by inch in San Francisco, in + the state legislature, and finally in the United States Senate. + </p> + <p> + When he went to Washington he found the same state of affairs as in + California—President Buchanan yielding to the Southern demands, + Southern members ruling and often terrifying Congress. Broderick at once + joined Stephen A. Douglas in the struggle he was then making for free soil + in Kansas and the territories, and his speeches were clear and often + fierce. + </p> + <p> + In reply to a speech from a Carolina senator in regard to the disgrace of + belonging to the working class, Mr. Broderick said (Congressional Globe, + 1857-58), “I represent a state where labor is honorable, where the judge + has left his bench, the doctor and lawyer their offices, the clergyman his + pulpit, for the purpose of delving in the earth, where no station is so + high, no position so great, that its occupant is not proud to boast that + he has labored with his own hands. There is no state in the Union, no + place on earth, where labor is so honored, so well rewarded, as in + California.” Mr. Broderick died in the midst of his bright career, + murdered in a duel by one of the leading members of the slavery party. + </p> + <p> + When he died, those of his fellow-citizens who believed much as he did, + yet had let him fight secession and slavery lone-handed, recognized what + he had done for them—their “brave young senator,” as Seward called + him, who had kept the evil of slavery from their soil. His work, stopped + by the bullet of his enemy, was taken up by the people, and his name + became a rallying cry for the lovers of the Union, of honest labor, and of + free soil. + </p> + <p> + News that the war had really begun brought forth the strongest Union + sentiments from many of those who had before been careless or indifferent. + A mass meeting of the people of San Francisco was held—business was + suspended, flags were flying everywhere, while eager-faced people listened + to earnest Union speeches. A few days later the legislature, by an almost + unanimous vote, declared in the strongest terms for the Union, offering to + give any aid the government might require. No one could longer have any + doubt of the loyalty of the state of California. + </p> + <p> + There were certainly many people from the South who were deeply in + sympathy with secession; but these, if honorable men who were able to + fight, hurried east to join the Confederate army, or if they chose to + remain under the protection of the flag, were generally wise enough to + keep their feelings to themselves. + </p> + <p> + Some there were, however, who, while they enjoyed the law and order of the + peaceful state, still spoke, plotted, and schemed for secession. To keep + such as these in order it was found necessary to retain most of the + California troops in the state for home defense. Those who did reach + Eastern battlefields fought well and nobly. + </p> + <p> + One of San Francisco’s ministers was unwise enough frequently to express + disloyal views in the pulpit, until one Sunday morning he found the banner + he would dishonor floating over his church, and hanging to a post in front + of the door a figure intended to represent himself, with his name and the + word “traitor” pinned to it. The next day he left for Europe, where he + stayed until the close of the war. + </p> + <p> + Another minister, Thomas Starr King, was one of the most earnest + supporters of the government. He organized the California division of the + Sanitary Commission for the assistance of sick and wounded soldiers. + Chiefly through his influence California gave over a million and a half to + that cause, which was one third of the whole expenditure of the + Commission. + </p> + <p> + In 1862 Leland Stanford became governor. He was devoted to the Union, + always striving to influence his state to give liberally of its wealth to + help the government; and its record in that line was second to none. “A + good leader, energetic and long-headed,” the governor was called; but no + one dreamed that long before he was an old man, he would give for the + cause of education in California the mightiest gift ever bestowed by any + one man for the benefit of humanity. + </p> + <p> + During the war, California furnished 16,000 men, two regiments of which + were among the best of the Union cavalry. One regiment of infantry was + composed of trappers and mountaineers, from whom were taken many + “sharpshooters” so famous in assisting the advance of the Northern troops. + </p> + <p> + In the southern part of the state there was a body of volunteers known as + the California Column, also the California Lancers, who, far off though + they were, found enough to do. They drove the Southern forces out of + Arizona and New Mexico, fought the Apache Indians in several battles, met + and defeated the Texas Rangers, and took various military posts in Texas. + </p> + <p> + Great was the excitement in San Francisco when one morning the United + States marshall captured, just as she was leaving the wharf, a schooner + fully fitted out as a privateer. She was filled with armed men, and in her + cabin was a commission signed by Jefferson Davis in the name of the + Confederate States, also a plan for capturing the forts of the harbor, the + Panama mail steamer, then en route north, and a treasure steamer soon to, + sail for Panama. + </p> + <p> + In Los Angeles disloyalty was more outspoken and unrebuked by public + opinion. Sometimes the surrounding ranchmen, many of whom were in sympathy + with the South, on the news of a Southern victory would come into Los + Angeles to celebrate with disloyal banners and transparencies. Living on + Main Street there was a Yankee, one of the leading citizens, who upon such + an occasion would take his rifle and, promenading the flat roof of his + wide-spreading adobe, hurl down defiance at the enemy, calling them + “rebels” and “traitors” and defying them to come up and fight him man to + man. But there must have been a feeling of good fellowship through it all, + since no stray bullet was ever sent to put a stop to the taunts of the + fiery old Unionist. + </p> + <p> + Some Spanish soldiers of the California Column, however, grew weary of + such open disloyalty, and one night, when off duty, captured two of the + Southern ranchmen and proposed to hang them to the oaks in the pasture + near where the city of Pasadena now stands. The American officers of the + troops, hearing of the affair, hurried out from Los Angeles and begged + their men to give up so disorderly and unsoldier-like an idea. “Yes, sirs, + it is true, all that you say; but they are rebels, they talk too much; why + suffer them to cumber Union ground?” This seemed the only reply they could + obtain; but finally the captives were liberated, though advised in the + future to guard well their tongues and actions. + </p> + <p> + The desire for war news from the Eastern states led to the completion of a + telegraph line between the Missouri River and San Francisco, and on all + sides the need of an overland railroad was also being recognized. Plans + for such a road had been frequently presented to Congress, but straightway + slavery entered into the question. The South wanted the road, but it must + be through Southern territory, while the North favored the middle or + northern route; and they could not agree. + </p> + <p> + On one such occasion Senator Benton spoke in favor of a line that had just + been surveyed by Captain Fremont. He was told by those who had other plans + that his route was not possible, that only scientific men could lay out a + railroad and determine the most practicable ways and easiest passes. But + Senator Benton’s answer is worth remembering. + </p> + <p> + “There is,” said he, “a class of scientific engineers older than the + schools and more unerring than mathematics. They are the wild animals—the + buffalo, elk, deer, antelope, and bear—which traverse the forest, + not by compass, but by an instinct which leads them always the right way + to the lowest passes in the mountains, the shallowest fords in the rivers, + the richest pastures in the forest, the best salt springs, the shortest + practicable route between two distant points. They are the first engineers + to lay out a road; the Indian follows. Hence the buffalo road becomes the + war path. The white hunter follows the same trail in the pursuit of game; + after that the buffalo road becomes the wagon road of the emigrant, and, + lastly, the railroad of the scientific man.” + </p> + <p> + Through her senators and representatives California spent several years in + pushing this matter. In vain they called attention to the fact that the + distance from Washington to San Francisco by the way of Cape Horn was + 19,000 miles, or more than the entire distance round the earth in the + latitude of San Francisco; and that by Panama it was as far as from + Washington to Peking in a direct line. + </p> + <p> + In 1859-60 there appeared in Washington a young engineer named Judah, who + had been sent by the people of the Pacific coast to urge the immediate + building of the road by the middle route that which was finally chosen. + Mr. Judah knew more about the matter than any other man, east or west, and + he failed in his mission only because the troubles over slavery and the + prospect of immediate secession took up the whole attention of Congress. + </p> + <p> + However, he came back in no way discouraged, and continued to urge the + matter in his cheerful, hopeful way. That he should be hopeful does not + seem strange to us who know that the road was built and that it was a + great success, but then conditions were different. + </p> + <p> + “What, build a railroad over those mountains, with their terrible winter + snows and landslides, across the desert, where there is absolutely no + water? It is impossible, and these men know it; they only want to get the + people’s money.” Such was the type of article one might read at any time + in the papers of the day. + </p> + <p> + Still, Mr. Judah’s talk had its results. One June day in 1861, Leland + Stanford, a young lawyer, who was at that time Sacramento’s chief grocer, + Mark Hopkins and Collis P. Huntington, hardware merchants, and Charles + Crocker, proprietor of the leading dry-goods store, met and organized the + Central Pacific Railroad Company, with Stanford as president, Huntington + as vice-president, Hopkins as treasurer, Judah as engineer, and Crocker as + one of the directors. + </p> + <p> + This action seems sensible enough as we write of it, but it was one of the + most daring undertakings ever attempted by any body of men. None of the + four was rich, all had worked hard for the little they had; but they felt + that the country must have the railroad, that without it California could + never become a great state. But if they could only push forward, as soon + as they had themselves accomplished something, help would come to them + from the East and their success would be assured. + </p> + <p> + Again Mr. Judah went to Washington, and this time he was successful. The + war had made the government feel the need of the railway, not only to bind + the Pacific coast closer to the eastern half of the continent, but to + transport troops to defend its western shores. There were many now ready + to vote for the road, and in July, 1862, the bill, having been passed by + both houses, was signed by Abraham Lincoln. + </p> + <p> + It provided for the building of two roads, one from the Missouri River + westward, the Union Pacific, and one from the Pacific coast eastward, the + Central Pacific, the two to be continued till they met and formed one long + line. + </p> + <p> + On the day that Leland Stanford was inaugurated governor of California, he + had the further satisfaction of beginning the construction of the overland + railroad by digging and casting the first shovelful of earth. This took + place in Sacramento, in the presence of a large gathering of the leading + people of the state; and from that time the work went speedily on. It was + estimated that the road would cost an average of eighty thousand dollars a + mile, though in the mountains the cost was nearer one hundred and fifty + thousand. + </p> + <p> + Not only the right of way, but a large portion of the near-by public + lands, were granted by the government to each road, and at the completion + of each forty miles of track there was to be further aid. The state of + California, the city of San Francisco, and the counties through which the + railroad passed, each gave generously to the Central Pacific; but all this + did not bring in enough ready money. Huntington in the East and Stanford + in the West almost worked miracles in getting funds to begin the work. + </p> + <p> + In the death of Mr. Judah, which occurred at this time, the company + suffered a great loss. Although the enterprise went on to a successful + ending, his name dropped out of sight; but those who know, feel that to + him California owes a great debt of gratitude. Though she was sure to have + the overland sometime, it might have been years later in its + accomplishment, but for the faith, energy, and perseverance of Theodore D. + Judah. + </p> + <p> + Charles Crocker now took charge of the building of the road; to accomplish + the work he imported Chinese, whom he found peaceable, industrious, and + quick to learn. They were arranged in companies moving at the word of + command like drilled troops—“Crocker’s battalions” they were called. + There was need of the greatest haste to get the different portions + completed in the time allowed. + </p> + <p> + “Why,” said Crocker, “I used to go up and down that road in my car like a + mad bull, stopping along where there was anything wrong, raising Cain with + the men that were not up to time.” + </p> + <p> + Neither Mr. Crocker nor Mr. Stanford ever recovered from the strain of + that time. It is said that it eventually caused the death of both men. + </p> + <p> + Meantime the Union Pacific was pushing overland westward as fast as + possible. Each road was aiming for the rich plains of Utah. If the Central + stopped at the eastern base of the mountains, it would make this road of + little value except for Pacific coast traffic; but if it could reach + Ogden, the line would pay well. + </p> + <p> + It was a mighty race all through the winter of 1868 and 1869, Crocker and + his men working like giants. What he accomplished then was scarcely less + wonderful than Napoleon’s passage of the Alps. + </p> + <p> + All the supplies for his thousands of workmen, all the materials and iron + for the road, even the locomotives, he had to have hauled on sledges over + the mountains through the winter snows. + </p> + <p> + Ogden was finally made the place where the two roads joined; but they + first met, and the last work was done, at Promontory, a point fifty miles + northwest of Ogden. There in May, 1869, the last tie was laid. It was made + of California laurel, handsomely polished, and on it was a silver plate + with an inscription and the names of the officers of the two roads. + </p> + <p> + It was an eventful meeting on that grassy plain, under the blue Western + sky, while all around rose the rugged peaks that had at last been + conquered by man’s energy. The telegraph at this spot was, for the + occasion, connected with all the offices along the line and in the leading + cities of the country, where crowds were in waiting to hear that the great + work was finished. + </p> + <p> + Two trains were there with their engines, as Bret Harte describes them, + “facing on the single track, half a world behind each back.” Around stood + the guests and officers of the roads waiting for the final ceremony. “Hats + off,” clicked the telegraph. Prayer was offered, and then the four gold + and silver spikes, presented by California, Nevada, Idaho, and Montana, + were put in place by President Stanford of the Central Pacific and Dr. + Durant of the Union Pacific. + </p> + <p> + As the silver hammers fell on the golden spikes, in all the telegraph + offices along the line and in the Eastern cities the hammer of the magnet + struck the bell—“tap, tap, tap.” “Done,”—flashed the message + to the eager crowds. + </p> + <p> + All over the land the event was celebrated with great rejoicing. In + Buffalo, as the news came, hundreds of voices burst out in the singing of + “The Star-Spangled Banner.” In Boston, services were held at midday in + Trinity Church, where the popular pastor offered “thanks to God for the + completion of the greatest work ever undertaken by men.” + </p> + <p> + To the four men who were the builders of the Central Pacific, the public + and particularly the state of California owes much. They not only built + the road, but made it a grand, complete success in all its departments. + Without it, California would still be a remote province, little known. + With it she is one of the chief states of the Union, and in the great + business world she is known and felt as a power. + </p> + <p> + Later the corporation became very wealthy and powerful. Then it was that + it began to abuse its power, working often against the best interests of + the inhabitants of the Pacific slope. In some cases, as in the eviction of + the people who were settlers in the Mussel Slough District, it was guilty + of extreme cruelty and injustice, such as is almost certain to bring its + own punishment. But in reckoning with the Southern Pacific, for so the + company is now called, the people of California should be careful to look + on both sides of the question, remembering the terrible struggles of those + early days, when the building of the Overland, that greatest achievement + America had ever seen, was to them like the miraculous gift of some fairy + godmother, seemingly beyond the possibility of nature. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XI. — That Which Followed After + </h2> + <p> + About the time that the people of California were beginning to feel the + trouble arising from the unlimited wealth and power of the great railroad + corporation, they discovered what they felt was danger coming from another + quarter. This was in the large number of Chinese pouring into the state. + Already every town of importance had its quaint Chinese quarter, bits of + Asia transplanted to the western hemisphere. Yet these sons of Asia, with + their quiet, gliding motions and oriental dress, had been of great service + in the development of the new land. Many of the most helpful improvements + were rendered possible by their labor, and for years they were almost the + only servants for house or laundry work to be obtained. Never did the + housewives of the Pacific coast join in the outcry against the Chinese. + </p> + <p> + Although all this was true, it was also a fact that an American workingman + could not live and support his family on the wages a Chinaman would take; + and when the white man saw the Chinese given the jobs because they could + work cheaply, he became discouraged and angry. Was he to be denied a + living in his own country because of these strangers? For this reason the + working people became very bitter toward the Chinese. + </p> + <p> + Their complaints were carried to Washington, and because of them the + government finally arranged with China for the restriction of immigration, + but not, however, before the matter caused much trouble in California. + </p> + <p> + During the years 1876-77 times were rightly called “hard” along the + Pacific slope. Often laboring men could not get work, and their families + suffered. The blame for all this was unjustly given to the Chinese, who + were several times badly treated by mobs. The general discontent led at + last to a demand for a new state constitution, which many people thought + would remedy the evils of which they complained. For twenty-five years the + old constitution had done good service. On the day it had been signed, + Walter Colton, alcalde of Monterey, wrote thus of it in his diary: “It is + thoroughly democratic; its basis, political and social equality, is the + creed of the thousands who run the plow, wield the plane, the hammer, the + trowel, the spade.” Still it had its faults, the greatest of which was the + power given the legislature over public moneys and lands, as well as the + chance it allowed for dishonesty in voting. + </p> + <p> + Unfortunately many of the delegates to the convention which was to make + the new constitution were foreigners who knew very little of American + manners, customs, and laws, and few of them were among the deeper thinkers + of the state, men who had had experience in lawmaking. That the new + constitution is not much better than the old, many who helped in the + making of it will agree. It was adopted in May, 1879. Since that time it + has received a number of changes by means of amendments voted for by the + people, and in spite of whatever errors it has contained, the state under + it has gone forward to a high degree of prosperity. + </p> + <p> + In 1875, during the administration of Governor Pacheco, the first native + state governor, an invitation was extended to native-born boys of San + Francisco to take part in the Fourth of July celebration. A fine body of + young men were thus assembled, of whom Hittell in his story of San + Francisco says, “They were unparalleled in physical development and mental + vigor, and unsurpassed in pride and enthusiasm for the land that gave them + birth.” This gathering led to the founding of the “Native Sons of the + Golden West,” an organization which now numbers many thousands and of + which the great state may well be proud. Later there was organized a + sister society of native daughters, and this also has a large membership. + As stated in their constitution, one of the main objects of these sons and + daughters of the West is “to awaken and strengthen patriotism and keep + alive and glowing the sacred love of California.” + </p> + <p> + An event of the utmost importance to the southern part of the state was + the completion of the railroad between San Francisco and Los Angeles, + which occurred in 1879. Its route lay through the rich valley of the San + Joaquin. Work had been carried on from each end of the line, and it was a + very happy assembly which gathered to witness the junction of the two + divisions, the event taking place at the eastern end of the San Fernando + tunnel. This road was afterward extended from Los Angeles eastward by the + way of Yuma and Tucson, and is to-day the Southern Pacific Overland. Later + the Santa Fe Company built its popular road between Los Angeles and the + Eastern states. Both these companies now have lines from Los Angeles to + San Diego, and the Southern Pacific has a coast road the length of the + state, along which the scenery is of great beauty. + </p> + <p> + Indians + </p> + <p> + In the history of the state the most pathetic portion is that which + relates to the Indians. Bancroft says, “The California valley cannot grace + her annals with a single Indian war bordering upon respectability. It can + boast, however, a hundred or two of as brutal butcherings on the part of + our honest miners and brave pioneers as any area of equal extent in our + republic.” Miners and settlers coming into the country would take up the + waters where the natives fished, the land where they hunted, driving them + back to rocky soil, where there was nothing but acorns and roots to + support life. As a result the poor, unhappy creatures, driven by hunger, + would steal the newcomers’ horses and cattle. It is true that the white + men depended, in a great measure, upon their animals for the support of + their families; but they thought only of their own wrongs, and would arm + in strong parties, chase the wretched natives to their homes, and tear + down their miserable villages, killing the innocent and guilty alike. The + government was the most to blame, because it did not in the first place + enact laws for the protection of the Indians in their rights. + </p> + <p> + About the towns, many of the natives gathered for work. In some places the + authorities had the right to arrest them as vagabonds and hire them out as + bondmen to the highest bidder, for a period often of as many as two or + three months at a time, with no regard to family ties. Little seems to + have been done to assist them to a better kind of life. In Los Angeles, + when working in the vineyards as grape pickers, they were paid their wages + each Saturday night, and immediately they were tempted on all sides by + sellers of bad whisky and were really hurried into drunkenness. Their + shrieks and howls would, for a time, make the night hideous, when they + were driven by the officers of the law into corrals, like so many pigs or + cattle, and left there till Monday morning, when they were handed over to + whoever chose to pay the officers for the right to own them for the next + week. + </p> + <p> + Near the Oregon line lived some of the most warlike and troublesome + Indians of California. Here there were one or two severe fights, the worst + of which was with the Modocs, in the northern lava beds. It was here that + General Canby was killed. To-day the Modocs are still suffering keenly. In + the upper part of the state the Indians have no lands of any kind, and + noble men and women of California are working to secure for them their + rights from the government. In the south, whole villages have been found + living on nothing but ground acorn meal, from which miserable diet many + children die and older people cannot long sustain life. + </p> + <p> + The Sequoya League, an association for the betterment of the Indians of + the Southwest, has done much toward opening the eyes of the public and of + the government officials to the unhappy condition of these first owners of + the soil. Congress, in 1906, appropriated $100,000 to be used in buying + land and water for those Indian reservations or settlements where the + suffering was greatest. This was a good beginning, but as the needy + Indians are scattered all over the state, much more is required before + they can be so placed that they can earn a living by their labors. + </p> + <p> + Sheep Industry + </p> + <p> + Gradually the cattle industry, which was for so long a time the leading + business of the country, gave way to sheep raising. During summer and fall + large flocks of grayish white merinos could be seen getting a rich living + on the brown grasses, the yellow stubble of old grain fields, and the + tightly rolled nuts of the bur clover; while in winter and spring, hills + and plains with their velvet-like covering of green alfileria offered the + best and juiciest of food. This was the time of the coming of the lambs. + As soon as they were old enough to be separated from their mothers they + were put during the day in companies by themselves. A band of five or six + hundred young lambs, playing and skipping over the young green grass they + were just learning to eat, was a beautiful sight to everybody save to the + man or boy who had them to herd. They led him such a chase that by the + time he had them safely corralled for the night, every muscle in his body + would be aching with fatigue. + </p> + <p> + Shearing time was the liveliest portion of the herder’s life, which was + generally very lonely. First came the shearing crew with their captain; + next arrived the venders of hot coffee, tamales, tortillas, and other + Mexican dainties; brush booths were erected and a brisk trade began. The + herds were driven up and into a corral where several shearers could work + at a time. Snip, snip, snip, went the shears hour after hour. It was the + boast of a good shearer that he could clip a sheep in seven minutes and + not once bring blood. As fast as cut, the wool was packed in a long sack + suspended from a framework. The dust was dreadful, and the man or boy + whose duty it was, when the bag was partly full, to jump in and tramp the + wool down so that the bag might hold more, would nearly choke before he + emerged into the clear daylight. + </p> + <p> + The passage of the no-fence law by the legislature of 1873, while it was + opposed by the sheep and cattle men, was one of the greatest aids to the + growth of agriculture, especially in the southern part of the state. It + provided that cattle and sheep should not be allowed to run loose without + a herder to keep them from trespassing. This saved the farmer from the + necessity of fencing his grain fields, a most important help in a country + where fence material was so scarce and expensive. + </p> + <p> + Colony Days + </p> + <p> + For some time after California’s admission to the Union most of the events + of importance in its history took place around the Bay of San Francisco + and the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin; but early in the + seventies the south land awoke from its long sleep and took part in + history making, not in such stirring incidents as those of the days of + ‘49, but in a quieter growth that was yet of importance in the making of + the state. People in the East had begun to find out that southern + California had a mild, healthful climate and that, though the sands of her + rivers and rocks of her mountains were not of gold, still her oranges, by + aid of irrigation, could be turned into a golden harvest, and that all her + soil needed was water in order to yield most bountiful crops. + </p> + <p> + As little land could be bought in small ranches, those wishing to settle + in the country chose the colony plan. A number of families would + contribute to a common sum, with which would be purchased a large piece of + land of several thousand acres with its water right. Each man received + from this a number of acres in proportion to the amount of money he had + invested. The first colony formed was that of Anaheim; then followed + Westminster, Riverside, Pasadena, and many others, and by that time people + began to come into southern California in large numbers. + </p> + <p> + The overland journey was much longer, then than now, but quite as + pleasant. At twenty-two miles an hour the country could be seen and + enjoyed, acquaintance made with the plump little prairie dogs of the + Nebraska plains, and their neighbors the ground owls, which bobbed grave + salutes as the train passed by. Bands of galloping deer, groups of grave + Indian warriors sitting on their ponies watching the train from afar, an + occasional buffalo lumbering along, shaking his shaggy head, were the + things that interested the traveler who took the overland trains in ‘74 + and ‘75. + </p> + <p> + At that time between San Francisco and Los Angeles there were two forms of + travel: a hundred miles of railroad, with the rest of the distance by + stage; and the steamship line. Families chose the ship. From San Pedro to + Los Angeles was the only railroad of the southern country. In Los Angeles + the flat-roofed adobe buildings, where people could walk about on the tops + of the houses, were a wonder to the Eastern strangers. Beautiful homes + some of them were, where glimpses could be had of stately senoras in silks + and laces, and beautiful senoritas whose dark eyes made havoc with the + hearts of the colony young men. The young Californian, who seemed a very + part of his fiery steed, was at once the admiration and envy of the Yankee + boy. + </p> + <p> + Queer sights were to be seen at every turn. Creaking carretas, whose + squeaking wheels announced their coming a block away, filled the streets, + some loaded with grapes, others with rounded shaggy grease-wood roots or + sacks of the red Spanish bean and great branches of flaming red peppers. + The oxen, with yoke on the horns, seemed as if out of some Bible picture. + </p> + <p> + Life in the different colonies was much the same. The newcomers had many + things to learn, but they made the best of their mistakes, and days of + hard work, such as many of them had never known, were often ended with + social or literary meetings, where minds were brightened and hearts warmed + by friendly intercourse. + </p> + <p> + When the rains were heavy, the swift mountain streams could not be + crossed, and often provisions gave out; then with neighborly kindness + those who had, loaned to those who had not, until fresh supplies could be + obtained. To this day the smell of new redwood lumber, the scent of + burning grease-wood brush, will bring back those times to the colonists + with a painful longing for the happy days of their new life in the new + land. Many never gained wealth, while some lost lands and savings; but it + was these earnest, intelligent men and women who developed the rich + valleys of the south land and to whom we are indebted for the bloom and + beauty found there to-day. + </p> + <p> + The result of the land laws and the ill-treatment of the Mexican + population at the mines was a period of highway robbery by bands of + outlaws, each under the leadership of some especially daring man. The + story of some of their adventures reminds the hearer of the tales of Robin + Hood. Not so mild as Robin’s were their lives, however. Often their + passage was marked by a trail of blood, where bitter revenge was taken + because of bitter wrongs. Last of these bands was that of Vasquez, who + robbed the colony folk gently with many apologies. He was finally captured + and executed, and with him the bandits passed from the page of state + history. + </p> + <p> + Alaska + </p> + <p> + One night in 1867 there took place in Washington an event that was to be + of great importance to the western part of the United States. This was the + signing of the treaty for the purchase of Alaska. As early as 1860 Mr. + Seward, in a speech delivered at St. Paul, said: + </p> + <p> + “Looking far off into the northwest I see the Russian as he occupies + himself establishing seaports, towns, and fortifications, on the verge of + this continent, and I say, ‘Go on and build up your posts all along the + coast up even to the Arctic Ocean, they will yet become the outposts of my + own country.’” So long ago did the desire for Alaska, or Russian America + as it was then called, possess the mind of the great statesman. But it was + not until seven years later that he found the chance to win the government + to his views. One evening, while the matter was under discussion between + the two countries, the Russian minister called upon Mr. Seward at his + home, to inform him that he had just received the Czar’s sanction for the + sale. + </p> + <p> + “Good, we will sign the treaty to-night,” said the American statesman. + </p> + <p> + “What, so late as this, and your department closed, your clerks + scattered?” remonstrated the Russian. + </p> + <p> + “It can be done,” replied Mr. Seward; and it was. At midnight the treaty + was signed. The price paid for Alaska was less than the cost of two of our + modern battleships. Every year has proved more and more the wisdom of the + purchase. The discovery of gold in particular has immensely increased its + value and has brought to California an enlarged commerce. + </p> + <p> + Spanish-American War + </p> + <p> + In 1898 came the war with Spain. The tidings of the 15th of February, + 1898, filled the hearts of the people of California with indignation and + grief. That the United States battleship Maine had been blown up in Havana + harbor and numbers of our seamen killed, seemed to many sufficient cause + for immediate war. Some, however, feared for the Pacific coast + settlements, with insufficient fortifications and no war vessels of + importance, except the magnificent Western-built battleship, Oregon. This + vessel was at Puget Sound when the news of the blowing up of the Maine + reached her. At the same time came orders to hurry on coal and proceed to + San Francisco. There ten days were spent in taking on as much coal and + provisions as the vessel could carry. Then, with orders to join the + Atlantic fleet as quickly as possible, on the morning of March 19 she + steamed through Golden Gate and turned southward, to begin one of the + longest voyages ever made by a battleship. + </p> + <p> + The people of California were sad at heart to part with their noble + vessel, and when, in April, war was declared, thousands followed the loved + ship and her brave men with their interest and prayers. All alone upon the + great sea she was sailing steadily onward, to meet, perhaps, a fleet of + foes, or worse still, a dart from that terror of the waters, a torpedo + boat; yet always watchful and always ready for whatever foe might appear, + she journeyed on. + </p> + <p> + The order given by Captain Clark to his officers in case they sighted the + Spanish squadron, was to turn and run away. As the Spanish ships followed + they were almost sure to become separated, some sailing faster than + others. The Oregon having a heavy stern battery, could do effective + fighting as she sailed; and if the enemy’s ships came up one at a time, + there might be a chance of damaging one before the next arrived. + </p> + <p> + Through two oceans and three zones, fifteen thousand miles without mishap, + the Oregon sailed in fifty-nine days. When she joined the fleet where it + lay off Cuba, she came sweeping in at fifteen knots an hour, the winner of + the mightiest race ever run, cheered at the finish by every man of the + American squadron. All honor should be given to her wise captain and brave + crew and to the Western workmen who made her so stanch and true. + </p> + <p> + On a fair May day, while California children were rejoicing over their + baskets of sweet May flowers, the first battle of the war was fought, the + first, and for California the most important. When Dewey destroyed the + Spanish fleet on that Sunday morning (May 1, 1898) in Manila Bay, he not + only won an important victory, but a greater result lay in the change of + attitude of the United States toward the rest of the world. + </p> + <p> + It was a change which had begun long before; many events had led up to it, + but possession of the Philippines and other islands of the Pacific forced + our country to recognize the importance of Asia and the ocean which washes + its shores. + </p> + <p> + Commerce has always moved westward, going from Asia to Greece, to Rome, to + western Europe, to the western hemisphere; and the race which takes up the + movement and carries it forward is the one which gains the profits. All + must realize the truth of Mr. Seward’s prophecy when he said, “The Pacific + coast will be the mover in developing a commerce to which that of the + Atlantic Ocean will be only a fraction.” “The opportunity of the Pacific,” + some one has called it. Nearly two thirds of the people of the earth + inhabit the lands washed by the waters of this western sea, and the + country which secures their trade will become the leading nation of the + world—a leadership which should be of the best kind, supplying the + needs of peaceful life, building railroads, encouraging the things that + help a people upward and onward. To the young men of California, Hawaii + and the Philippines offer every chance for daring, energy, and invention. + If to honesty and energy there be added a speaking knowledge of the + Spanish language, there lie before the youth of the Pacific coast the + finest opportunities for active, successful lives. + </p> + <p> + As soon as President McKinley issued his call to arms for the Spanish war, + the men of California responded with a rush. A large number of those who + had enlisted were hurried to San Francisco, where the military authorities + were quite unprepared to furnish supplies. For a day or two there was real + suffering; then the Society of the Red Cross came to the rescue, and + thousands of dollars’ worth of food and blankets were sent to the camp. As + soon as the always generous people of San Francisco comprehended the state + of affairs, there was danger that the hungry young soldiers would be ill + from overfeeding. + </p> + <p> + The twenty-third day of May, 1898, is a day to be remembered in the + history of our country, for on that day went out the first home regiment + from the mainland of the United States, to fight a foe beyond the sea. + When the twelve companies of California Volunteers marched through the + city from the Presidio to the docks of the Pacific Mail and Steamship + Company, two hundred thousand people accompanied them. So hard was it for + our peace-loving people to understand the real meaning of war that it was + not until the brave lads and earnest men were actually marching to the + steamer which was to carry them thousands of miles to meet danger and + death, that many quite realized the sorrowful fact. Men cheered the + regiment as it passed, but the sobs of the women sometimes nearly drowned + the hurrahs. Said one officer, “It was heartrending. If we had let + ourselves go, we would have cried our way to the dock.” But in the war the + record of the California troops was one that gave new honor to their + state. + </p> + <p> + Annexation of Hawaii + </p> + <p> + “The Hawaiian Islands,” said Walt Whitman, in the Overland Monthly, “are + not a group. They are a string of rare and precious pearls in the sapphire + center of the great American seas. Some day we shall gather up the pretty + string of pearls and throw it merrily about the neck of the beautiful + woman who has her handsome head on the outside of the big American Dollar, + and they will be called the beautiful American Islands.” + </p> + <p> + In 1893 the native queen of the islands was deposed by a revolution + conducted in a great measure by Americans living in Hawaii. A provisional + government was formed and an application made for annexation to the United + States. Through two presidential terms the matter was discussed both in + Congress and by the people all over the country. Many were against + extending our possessions beyond the mainland in any direction. Others + thought it unfair to the natives of the islands to take their lands + against their will. It seemed to be pretty well proved, however, that the + native government was not for the advancement and best interests of the + country, and that in a short time these kindly, gentle people would have + to give up their valuable possessions to some stronger power. + </p> + <p> + Captain Mahan, writing of these conditions, said: “These islands are the + key to the Pacific. For a foreign nation to hold them would mean that our + Pacific ports and our Pacific commerce would be at the mercy of that + nation.” + </p> + <p> + In the early part of the Spanish war (July, 1898) the resolution for the + annexation of the Hawaiian Islands was passed by Congress and approved by + President McKinley, and the string of pearls was cast about Columbia’s + fair neck. + </p> + <p> + Pius Fund + </p> + <p> + It seems strange that the first case to be tried in the peace court of the + nations at the Hague should have been in regard to the Pius Fund of the + Californias collected by the Jesuit padres two hundred and thirty years + before, to build missions for the Indians of California. The way in which + this money was obtained is described in Chapter IV of this history. It + grew to be a large sum, of which the Mexican government took control, + paying the interest to the Roman Catholic Church in Upper and Lower + California. After the Mexican war, Mexico refused to pay its share to the + Church of Upper California. The United States took up the matter, claiming + that according to the treaty which closed the war, the Catholic Church of + the state of California had a right to its Mexican property. + </p> + <p> + In 1868 it was agreed by the two countries to leave the matter to the + decision of Sir Edward Thornton, English ambassador at Washington. He + decided that Mexico should pay an amount equal to one half the interest + since the war. Mexico did this, but had paid nothing during all the years + which had passed since that time. To settle the dispute finally, it was + decided to leave it to arbitration by the Hague court. The verdict given + was that Mexico should pay the Roman Catholic Church of California + $1,400,000 for the past, and one half the interest on the fund each year + from February, 1903, forever. + </p> + <p> + Panama Canal + </p> + <p> + The natural result of the nation’s need in the Civil War was the overland + railroad. The danger to the Oregon on its long journey, the difficulties + in getting reinforcements to Admiral Dewey, and the possession of new + lands in the Pacific led to decided action in regard to the building of a + ship canal through the Isthmus of Panama. + </p> + <p> + For years the plan had been talked over. In General Grant’s first term as + President he saw so plainly our need of this water way, that he arranged a + canal treaty with Colombia, and it seemed as though the work would soon + begin, but the Colombian government refused to allow the matter to go on, + hoping to make better terms with the United States. This was not possible + then, so the plan was not carried out. Later, a French company undertook + to build a canal across Panama, but after several years of work failed. + </p> + <p> + Many of the Americans favored the route through Nicaragua, but after the + government had spent much money and time in considering carefully both + propositions, the preference was given to the Panama route. In 1902 an act + for the building of the canal was passed by Congress and approved by + President Roosevelt. It provided, however, that should the President be + unable to obtain a satisfactory title to the French company’s work and the + necessary territory from the republic of Colombia on reasonable terms and + in a reasonable time, he should seek to secure the Nicaragua route. The + matter was almost settled, when again Colombia’s greed got the better of + her judgment and she refused to ratify the compact. + </p> + <p> + When the people of the province of Panama saw that they were likely to + lose their canal through the action of their government, they promptly + revolted and declared themselves independent of Colombia. The United + States recognized their independence, and a satisfactory treaty was at + once concluded with them. In March, 1904, the commission appointed by the + President for building the canal sailed for the Isthmus. + </p> + <p> + Nearly one fourth of the work had already been done by the old company, + but there was yet a great deal to do. Besides the actual building of the + canal, its dams and locks, the fever district had to be made healthful + enough for workmen to live there, marshes had to be drained, pure water + brought in from the mountains, and the fever-spreading mosquitoes killed. + In addition to all this, the natives of the land and the many bands of + workmen of different races had to be brought into an orderly, law-abiding + condition. In less than a year it was found necessary to alter the + commission, the President choosing this time men particularly noted for + their energy and power to make things go. The work progressed with great + rapidity, until, in August, 1914, the canal was opened to navigation. + </p> + <p> + The Orient + </p> + <p> + In the latter part of the nineteenth century the eastern portion of Asia + began to stir itself, rising up from the sleepy, shut-in life it had led + for hundreds of years. The eyes of the world watched in wonder the + progress of the war between China and Japan (1894-95). In it was fought + the first battle in which modern war vessels were engaged. It was found + that the Japanese, of whom so little was then known, could fight, and + fight well. + </p> + <p> + As a result of the war, China ceded to Japan the territory of Manchuria + and the right to protect Korea. Russia and Germany objected, however, and + France agreed with them, so Japan had to give way. Soon Russia began + taking possession of the disputed territories, but she had constant + trouble with Japan, and early in 1904 war broke out. Before the close of + the year the civilized world stood astonished not only at the wisdom, + patriotism, and fighting qualities of the Japanese, but also at their + humanity, which would not have discredited a Christian nation. + </p> + <p> + There took place a series of great battles, both on land and on the sea, + in which the Japanese were generally victorious. The terrible loss of life + and destruction of property led the President of the United States, in the + spring of 1905, to urge upon the two countries that fighting cease and + peace be arranged. + </p> + <p> + Few statesmen believed that Mr. Roosevelt would be successful in his + humane endeavor, but he pushed his suggestion with patient perseverance + until, in September, 1905, Americans had the satisfaction of witnessing + upon their soil, at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, the signing of the treaty + of peace between Russia and Japan. + </p> + <p> + Japan’s methods of conducting the war had advanced her to a standing among + nations which she had never before occupied, and all realized the wisdom + of securing commercial relations with her people, who were so rapidly + adopting the habits and customs of the rest of the civilized world. In + this competition for her commerce, California, by her position on the + western shore of the United States, has unusual advantages, a fact which + was soon proved by the amount of money invested in increasing her + facilities for production and manufacturing. Unfortunately little has yet + been done in the matter of shipbuilding, and few vessels which enter her + harbors have been built in the state. + </p> + <p> + Some Recent Events + </p> + <p> + “I’ll put a girdle around the earth in forty minutes,” prophesied Puck in + “Midsummer Night’s Dream.” The boastful fairy did not succeed in + accomplishing this wonder until midnight on the Fourth of July, 1903. On + that day the Pacific cable from the United States to Hawaii, to Midway + Island, to Guam, and to Manila, began operations. The men worked hard that + last day of the cable laying, and by 11 P.M. the President of the United + States sent a message to Governor Taft at Manila. Soon after was the old + prophecy fulfilled, when President Roosevelt, no doubt with Puck at his + elbow, sent a message round the world in twenty minutes, thus bettering + Puck’s idea by half. + </p> + <p> + The saddest year in California’s records is that of 1906. On the morning + of April 18, a great and overwhelming calamity overtook the beautiful + region around San Francisco Bay. A movement of the earth’s crust which + began in the bottom of the ocean far out from land, reached the coast in + the vicinity of Tomales Bay in Marin County. Wrecking everything that came + in its direct path, it shivered its way in a southeasterly direction to a + point somewhere in the northern part of Monterey County. The land on the + two sides of the fault moved a short distance in opposite directions. Thus + in some straight fences and roads crossing the fault, one section was + found to be shifted as much as sixteen feet to one side of the other. The + severe vibrations set up by this break and shifting extended a long + distance in all directions. + </p> + <p> + Although the earthquake was by no means so severe in San Francisco as in + the region of Tomales Bay or even in the vicinity of Stanford, Santa Rosa, + San Jose, or Agnews, it caused greater loss of life and property on + account of the crowded population. Many buildings were wrecked, especially + those poorly constructed on land reclaimed from swampy soil or built up by + filling in. + </p> + <p> + People who had prophesied that, should an earthquake come, the high + buildings such as those of the Call and the Chronicle would surely + collapse, were astonished to see those giant structures apparently + unharmed while buildings of much less height, but without the steel + framework, were completely wrecked. + </p> + <p> + The earthquake was a sad calamity, but had this been the sum of the + disaster the city would only have paused in its progress long enough to + clear away the wreck and to sorrow with the mourners. It was the fires + which sprang up while the water system was too damaged to be of use that + wiped out old historical San Francisco, leaving in its place a waste of + gray ashes and desolate ruins. Santa Rosa, San Jose, Stanford, Agnews, all + suffered severely from the earthquake; but in few cases did fires arise to + add to their loss. The State Insane Asylum at Agnews, which was built on + swampy ground, was a complete wreck with large loss of life. + </p> + <p> + The marvelous bravery and cheerfulness with which the people of San + Francisco bore their cruel fate gave a lesson in courage and unselfishness + to humanity. The magnificent generosity with which not only the people of + southern and northern California, but of the whole country, sprang to the + relief of the unhappy city gave a silver lining to the black cloud of + disaster. + </p> + <p> + Before the embers of their ruined homes had ceased to smoke the people + began the work of rebuilding, and at the time of the visit of the Atlantic + fleet of the United States navy in 1908, business had so revived as to be + almost normal, and the welcome accorded the silent vessels in white by the + gallant City of St. Francis was as hearty and generous as any that greeted + them during their progress. + </p> + <p> + October, 1909, was marked by two events of importance to San Francisco. + One was the visit of President Taft, to whom the great state of California + had given all its electoral votes. The second was the celebration, at the + same time, of the discovery of the bay, which occurred in the fall of + 1769, the founding of the presidio and mission, which took place in the + fall of 1776, and the rebuilding of the burned district. On this occasion + the people of San Francisco and their guests gave themselves up to a time + of merrymaking—a three days’ historical carnival called, in honor of + the commander of the expedition during which the great bay was discovered, + the “Portola Festival.” + </p> + <p> + In 1915 the Panama-Pacific International Exposition was held in San + Francisco. It contained many novel and beautiful features, and was + attended by vast multitudes of people. Another notable exposition was held + at San Diego, beginning in 1915 and continuing in 1916. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII. — “The Groves Were God’s First Temples” + </h2> + <p> + If the people of this century continue the destruction of trees as they + are doing at present, a hundred years from now this will be a world + without forests, a woodless, treeless waste. What a desolate picture is + this! What a grave charge will the people of the future have to bring + against us that we recklessly destroy the trees, one of God’s most + beautiful and useful gifts to man, without even an endeavor to replace the + loss by replanting! + </p> + <p> + During the last hundred years the American lumber belt has moved westward + over a wide space. In the early days of our history nearly the entire + supply came from Maine, and what interesting stories we have of those + brave pioneer loggers and settlers! Gradually the noble woods which + furnished the tall, smooth masts for which American ships were famous, + were destroyed; and the ringing ax blows were then heard in the forests + about the Great Lakes and in the middle Southern states. This supply is by + no means exhausted, but to-day the heart of the lumber interest is on the + Pacific coast. + </p> + <p> + Around the great central valley which is drained by the Sacramento and the + San Joaquin rivers, six hundred and forty miles long, lie mountain ranges + on whose slopes are some of the noblest forests of the world. To the north + of the central valley the trees of the east and west join, forming a + heavily wooded belt quite across the state. + </p> + <p> + In the trade, the greatest demand is for lumber of the pine and fir trees, + and of these California has as many species as Europe and Asia combined. + She has, indeed, only a little less than one fifth of all the lumber + supply of the United States. Her most valuable tree for commerce is the + sugar pine. It attains a diameter of twelve feet or more and is often two + hundred feet high. But the most interesting trees of California and of the + world are the Sequoias, the oldest of all living things. Very far back, in + the time of which we have no written history, in the moist days of + gigantic vegetation and animals, the Sequoias covered a large portion of + the earth’s surface; then came the great ice overflow, and when that + melted away, almost the only things living of the days of giants were the + Sequoias of middle and upper California, and those on some two thousand + acres over the Oregon line. + </p> + <p> + The Sequoia sempervirens, which is commonly called redwood, is distributed + along the Coast Range, the trees thriving only when they are constantly + swept by the sea fogs. For lumber this tree is nearly as valuable as the + sugar pine. From Eureka to San Diego, this is the material of which most + of the houses are built. Because of its rich color and the high polish it + takes, especially the curly and grained portions, its value for cabinet + work is being more and more appreciated. On account of the presence of + acid and the absence of pitch and rosin in its composition, it resists + fire and is therefore a safe wood for building. When the Baldwin Hotel in + San Francisco, a six-story building of brick and wood, burned down, two + redwood water tanks on the top of the only brick wall that was left + standing, were found to be hardly charred and quite water-tight. + </p> + <p> + It is the redwood which furnishes the largest boards for the lumber trade. + Not long ago a man in the lumber region built his office of six boards + taken from one of the trees. The boards were twelve by fourteen feet, and + there was one for each wall, one for the floor, and one for the ceiling. + Windows and doors were cut out where desired. + </p> + <p> + In the heart of the redwood and pine forests there are some thirty mill + plants, and they own about half of the timber district. The methods of + lumbering are exceedingly wasteful. Scarcely half of the standing timber + of a tract is taken by the loggers and what is left is often burned or + totally neglected. Replanting is unthought of and the young trees are + treated as a nuisance. + </p> + <p> + Three fourths of the forests of California grow upon side hills, generally + with an incline of from fifteen to thirty degrees. When the trees are + gone, therefore, the rain soon washes away the soil, leaving the rocks + bare. When the next rainy season comes, the water, not being able to sink + into the earth, and so gradually find its way to the streams, rushes down + the hillsides in torrents, flooding the smaller water courses. Then the + rivers rise and overflow, causing great damage to property; but their + waters quickly subside, and when the dry season comes they have not + sufficient depth for the passage of ships of commerce. The total + destruction of the forests would soon destroy the navigability of the + principal water highways of the state, while another serious result would + be the lessening of the water supply for irrigation. + </p> + <p> + The second variety of the Sequoia, the gigantea, or “big tree,” as it is + called, grows much farther inland than the redwood, being found on the + western slopes of the Sierras. There are ten separate groves of these + trees, from the little company of six in southern Placer County to the + southernmost Sequoia, two hundred and sixty miles away on the Tule River. + The whole put together would not make more than a few hundred thousand of + extra-sized trees, and of the giants themselves not more than five + hundred. These rise as high as three hundred and fifty feet, and are from + twenty to thirty feet through. Near the Yosemite the stage road passes + through the hollow center of one of those monsters. In a grove owned by + the government some cavalry men, with their horses, lined up on a “big + tree” log, and it easily held fourteen, each horse’s nose touching the + next one’s tail. + </p> + <p> + How old these trees may be is yet unsettled, but Mr. John Muir, their + intimate friend and companion, tells of one which was felled which showed + by its rings that it was 2200 years old. Another which had blown down was + fully 4000 years old. Later investigation makes it seem not unlikely that + some have existed for even 5000 years. It seems a sin to destroy a living + thing of that age. + </p> + <p> + The great basin of the Santa Cruz Mountains, which contains a large + collection of the Sequoia sempervirens, belongs to the United States + government. So, too, do the Mariposa grove of Sequoia gigantea, and the + General Grant park, and Tuolumne grove, each of which contains a small + number of fine specimens of the big trees. These properties will be + protected, but all other groves, in which are the giant Sequoias, are in + great danger. There has recently been a movement by the government toward + purchasing the Calaveras grove, which has the finest collection of the big + trees known, but nothing decided has been done. Meantime there are a + number of mills engaged in devouring this noble forest. + </p> + <p> + Unless the people of California take up the matter with earnestness and + energy, the state and the United States will stand disgraced before + mankind for letting these wonders of the world, these largest and oldest + of all living things, be destroyed for the lumber they will make. They + should be purchased by the government and protected, then some movement + should be started in all lumber districts by which waste in logging may be + done away with, young trees protected and cleared, and forest land + replanted with suitable trees. The law excluding cattle and sheep from the + forests is already proving its wisdom by the new growth of young trees. + Only among the giant Sequoias of the Tule and King’s River district are + there to be found baby trees of that species. + </p> + <p> + The lumber trade is one of the most interesting and necessary industries + of the state. Work in the camp is healthful and well paid. Many a delicate + boy or young man in the city would grow strong and healthy and live a much + longer time if he would cast his lot with the hardy choppers and cutters + of the great forest of the Pacific slope. A logging crew consists of + thirty men, including two cooks. The discipline is as rigid as that of a + military system; each man knows his own particular duties, and must attend + to them promptly and faithfully. Trees are not chopped down, as used to be + the custom; with the exception of a little chopping on either edge, a saw + run by two men does the work. Oxen are seldom used, as in early days on + the Atlantic coast, to haul out the logs, for they have given way to + “donkeys,”—not the long-eared, loud-voiced little animals, but the + powerful, compact donkey-engines. + </p> + <p> + Lumber schooners and steamers are the chief features of our coast traffic. + Almost all the large cities of the Pacific coast owe their foundation and + prosperity to this trade. San Francisco and Eureka in Humboldt County are + the principal ports of the trade. Mendocino has a rock-bound coast, with + no harbors, but she has fine forests. Here the lumber steamer secures its + cargo by means of suspended wire chutes as trolleys. The outer end of the + trolley wire is anchored in the ocean, the wire crosses the deck of the + moored steamer, the slack being taken up to the ship’s gaff, thus making a + tight wire up and down which the trolley car with its load is sent. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes a great raft made of lumber is taken in tow by a steamer loaded + with the same material and they start on a voyage down the coast, but this + is a dangerous venture. If the sea becomes rough the raft may break loose + from the steamer and go plunging over the waves, no one knows where. The + brave captains of our coasting vessels fear nothing so much as a timber + raft adrift which may crash into a vessel at any moment and against which + there is no way of guarding. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII. — To All that Sow the Time of Harvest Should be Given + </h2> + <p> + In all but savage countries, wheat is the most important product of the + soil, A large proportion of human beings living on the earth to-day are so + poverty-stricken as to make the question of food a matter of anxiety for + every day. The prayer for bread unites more voices than any other. + </p> + <p> + The padres who settled California understood this well. A number of + bushels of wheat, snugly incased in leather sacks, formed a precious part + of the cargo of the San Carlos, that stout Spanish vessel which in 1769 + brought the first settlers to California. This seed-wheat was divided + among the early missions and as soon as possible was planted—not + with success at first. For a time the padres made little progress in crop + raising. They had to learn by their failures. In San Diego the first wheat + planted was sown in the river bottom and the seed was carried entirely + away by the rising of the stream in the winter; and the next year, which + proved to be a dry one, it was planted so far from the water that it was + almost all destroyed by drought. At San Gabriel the first crop was drowned + out, but the second, planted on the plain where it could be irrigated, was + a success. San Gabriel was chief among the missions for wheat raising, and + was called the “mother of agriculture.” + </p> + <p> + Grain planting and harvesting, in the days of the padres, differed widely + from the methods which prevail to-day. Then the ground was plowed once or + twice, but in what manner? A yoke of oxen, guided by an Indian, dragged a + plow with an iron point made by an Indian blacksmith. If iron could not be + obtained, the point was of oak. Seed, which had been first soaked in lye, + was sown by hand, broadcast, and harrowed in with branches of trees. The + grain was cut by the Indians with knives and sickles. It was afterward + placed on the hardened floor of a circular corral made for the purpose, + and into it was turned a band of horses which were urged to a run by the + shouts and whips of the Indian vaqueros. After running one way they were + frightened into turning and going the other. In this manner the grain was + trampled out of the husks. It was freed from the chaff by being thrown + high in the air by the shovelful, when the wind was blowing hard enough to + carry away the light straw. + </p> + <p> + Next, the grain was washed and dried, then ground, generally between two + stones bolted together. A pole for a handle was also fastened by the bolt, + and the stone was turned, sometimes by mules, sometimes by Indians. La + Perouse, the French scientist who visited the coast in 1786 and gave to + the padres of San Carlos a handmill for grinding grain, said that it would + enable four Indian women to do the work of a hundred by the old way. + Before many years the padres at San Gabriel built a water mill of stone + and adobe which ground grain in large quantities, but not with entire + success, until Chapman, the first American in that region, gave them his + assistance to perfect the machinery. This interesting building has been + restored by Mr. H. E. Huntington and is an object of interest to those who + visit San Gabriel. + </p> + <p> + In 1815 the missions raised enough wheat to supply the whole population, + and there was even an attempt to ship grain to Mexico. This was a failure, + but a little grain was sold to the Russians at Fort Ross. At the time of + the change in the mission settlements, when the padres were sent away, all + agriculture declined. During the Mexican War and when the crowd of gold + seekers came, there was very little grain or flour to be had. Some of the + gold hunters, who had been farmers in the East, failing to find a fortune + in the river sands, and seeing the lack of food stuffs, went back to their + old occupation. They put in crops of wheat and barley along the waters of + the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and were amazed at the fertility of the + soil and the success of their venture. + </p> + <p> + From this time the cultivation of wheat increased rapidly. In 1899 was + harvested the largest crop recorded. After that there was a decline in + wheat raising, because many farmers planted much of their grain lands to + fruit for canning and drying. To California inventors is due the credit of + substituting steam for hand labor in planting and harvesting grain. + </p> + <p> + Let us look at the busy scene on a grain field in the California of + to-day. It is fall or early winter, and the time for planting has arrived. + Into the field, which is several thousands of acres in extent, comes a + great engine, one that does not need a track to run upon. Over the ground + it rolls. With strength equal to fifty horses it draws behind it sixteen + ten-inch plows, four six-foot harrows, and a press drill to match. It + takes only a few men to manage it, and in a short time it has plowed, + harrowed, and sown the broad acres; nothing is left to do until the + harvest time arrives. + </p> + <p> + When the grain is ripe, there comes another great machine. This is the + harvester, whose knives or cutters may be as much as twenty-six feet wide. + This one machine cuts off the heads of wheat, thrashes them, cleans the + grain, and sacks it, clearing seventy-five acres in a day, leaving on the + fields the piles of sacked wheat ready for market. It is most interesting + to watch one of these giants of steel and iron traveling over the uneven + ground, crossing ditches, crawling along side hills, without any trouble + or change of pace, gathering in the ripe grain, turning it out snugly + tucked away in the brown gunny-sacks waiting for its long journey by ship + or car. How the padres would wonder if they could see it working! + </p> + <p> + The grain of the California wheat is white and soft, and contains much + gluten. No matter what hard red or yellow varieties are brought from other + countries and planted here, in a year or two they change to the California + type. It is not certainly known what causes this peculiarity. The grain + most in favor through the state is called “club wheat” from the form of + the head, which is blockshaped, instead of long and slender. The “club + wheat” holds fast its grain so that it can be harvested without falling to + the ground, which, in so dry a climate, is a great point in its favor. + </p> + <p> + Wheat is raised all over the state, both on high and on low land. Some of + the largest grain ranches are along the tule lands around Stockton. These + were marshes once, but have been drained, and now are choice grain fields. + Wheat was first sent out of the state to England as ballast for returning + ships, but the trade gradually increased until there are now over one + hundred of the finest sailing vessels engaged in it. Unfortunately, few of + these vessels are American, perhaps but one fourth. It is a pity that our + countrymen should not benefit more by this trade. During the grain season + at most of the Pacific ports the flag of nearly every nation on earth is + represented. All styles of shipping, from the largest modern steamer to + the smallest ocean sailing vessel, are then to be found in the harbors of + the coast. + </p> + <p> + Grain is carried to the docks in barges, schooners, or on cars, and is + seldom shipped except in sacks. Wheat, unless it needs to be cleaned or + graded, is kept in the sack in which it leaves the home field. To watch + the grain being loaded in the ship is a sight well worth seeing. If the + wharf, or car, or warehouse where it lies is higher than the deck of the + vessel on which it is to be shipped, the sacks are placed on an inclined + chute down which they descend to the hold of the ship. If the deck of the + vessel is the higher, sometimes an endless belt, run by electricity, is + placed in a chute, the sacks are laid on the belt, and so carried to their + resting place. + </p> + <p> + In loading wheat for export, a number of sacks in each row are bled; that + is, a slit is made in the sack which allows a small quantity of grain to + escape and fill the spaces round the corners and sides of the sack, thus + making a compact cargo which is not liable to shift. At Port Costa is + located a grader, where, when necessary wheat can be cleaned and graded; + here also are many large warehouses. + </p> + <p> + For a long time about two thirds of the wheat crop of the state was sent + to Ireland, but now our new lands in the Pacific take much of it. + California has an immense trade in wheat that has been ground into flour. + Over six million dollars’ worth of flour is shipped each year, nearly + three fourths of it going to China, Japan, and the islands of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + It is believed by scientific agriculturists that better results will be + obtained in wheat raising as smaller ranches become the rule, where the + farmer can give more attention to the needs of the grain, adding what is + necessary to the soil. Often the alternation of crops increases the yield—wheat + doing much better if planted where beans or other legumes were raised the + year before. Where the grain fields are not so large, irrigation can be + depended upon instead of the rainfall, and crops then are sure and more + even in quantity. + </p> + <p> + Barley is the grain next in importance to wheat in California. It can be + raised where wheat can not, as it needs less moisture for its development; + and if the rains fail, it can be cut for hay which always brings a good + price. Barley hay, with the heads on, is in California the chief food of + horses, and in many cases of cattle. A horse for ordinary work fed on + barley hay gets all the grain necessary. If on account of heavier work, + stronger food is required, rolled barley is given in addition. A large + quantity of the better graded barley grain raised in the state is used by + the brewers for malt. + </p> + <p> + Corn does not do so well through the state in general, but in some + locations it is justly claimed that a man can ride on horseback down the + rows of corn without being seen over the tops. This, too, the padres + brought into the state. The tortilla, the common food of the Spanish + settlers, was made of coarse-ground or pounded corn. + </p> + <p> + Alfalfa, the wonderful forage plant of dry regions of the West, is a + member of the clover family. Throughout the southern and middle portion of + California are large ranches devoted to its culture for hay. It is also + raised extensively for green feed for horses and cattle. It produces from + three to six crops a year according to location and care given it, and is + treated for the market much the same as barley hay, except that it is + generally made into smaller bales. Alfalfa is raised by irrigation, the + best method being from flumes opening into indentations, not so deep as + furrows, from which the water spreads, flooding the whole surface. + </p> + <p> + Many a California young man from high school gets his first taste of work + away from home in the harvest fields. Generally this is a good experience + for him. He receives some pretty hard knocks, and sees the rough side of + life, but if he has self-control and good principles, he will be the + better for the venture, returning more manly, earnest, and self-reliant. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV. — The Golden Apples of the Hesperides + </h2> + <p> + The orange, like many other of California’s most valuable products, was + brought into the country by the patient, far-seeing padres. Orange, lemon, + and citron, those three gay cousins of royal blood, traveled together, and + soon were to be found in many of the mission gardens. The most extensive + of that early planting was an orchard at San Gabriel, set out by Padre + Sanchez in 1804. In the height of its prosperity, this mission is recorded + as having two thousand three hundred and thirty-three fruit trees, a large + proportion of which were orange trees. San Fernando had sixteen hundred + trees. San Diego had its orange orchard: how many trees is not recorded, + but its olive grove numbered five hundred and seventeen flourishing trees. + Santa Inez had nearly a thousand trees. As early as 1800 Santa Barbara and + San Buenaventura also had valuable orchards. + </p> + <p> + Outside the missions the first orange trees in any number were planted in + 1834, the famous Wolfskill grove in 1841. By 1862 there were about + twenty-five thousand trees of this variety in the state, and two thirds of + these belonged to Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. A little later several large + orchards were planted in the region around the Mission San Gabriel. In + Riverside, often called the mother of orange culture in the state, the + first seeds were planted in 1870, the first trees from these seeds in + 1873, and from that period is dated the beginning of extensive planting. + This was largely the work of colonists. About the time the orchards came + into bearing, the Southern Pacific and the Santa Fe Overland were + completed, so that an Eastern market was gained for the fruit, with the + result that the new industry fairly bounded forward. So much was sometimes + made from an acre of trees that it seemed as though people could not get + land and plant fast enough. Occasionally an income was reported of three + thousand dollars from an acre, and eight hundred to one thousand dollars + per acre was not an uncommon crop. + </p> + <p> + Although at this time there were a few orange trees in the middle and + northern parts of the state, for many years it was supposed that only the + southern country could raise this fruit suitable for the market, but + to-day people know better. Excellent oranges are grown as far north as + Shasta, and Butte County, which leads in the northern orange culture, has + a number of large and valuable orchards. From Tulare County and other + parts of the valley of the San Joaquin, choice fruit is being shipped to + the markets of the East. From San Diego all the way up the state one may + find trees of the citrus family flourishing; still, whether north or + south, in planting an orange orchard, the greatest care has to be taken in + the choice of location. Jack Frost is the enemy to be avoided, and + generally in any strip of country the lower lands are the ones he visits + first. So the highlands are preferred, and even here the currents of air + must be studied. A strong, uninterrupted, downward sweep of air from the + snowcovered mountains will often, at night, drive away the needed warmth + gathered during the day, so that land protected by some mountain spur + which makes an eddy in the current is the best for this heat-loving fruit. + </p> + <p> + There are several popular varieties of the orange. The Valencia late is + being planted by many in preference to others because, besides being a + fine fruit, it keeps well, ripening when the days begin to be long and + hot, and is therefore doubly welcome. The sweet orange from the + Mediterranean country, and the St. Michael, with its paper rind, are also + favorites, as are the delicious little Mandarin and Tangerine varieties, + with their thin skin and high flavor; but the king of them all is the + Washington navel, which has gained for the state its high position as an + orange-raising territory. This is not a new variety, though many may + believe it so. A book published in Rome over three hundred years ago gives + an interesting description and pictures of this and other kinds of oranges + and the way they should be raised. The title of this rare old volume is + “Hesperides, or about the Golden Apples, their Culture and Use.” Among its + many fine illustrations is one of Hercules receiving the golden apples. + Another shows the bringing of the fruit to Italy by a body of nymphs and + goddesses in Neptune’s car. Mr. Charles F. Lummis has translated portions + of the book in the California magazine Out West. + </p> + <p> + On its travels the navel orange finally reached Bahia, Brazil, and there, + sometime during the Civil War in the United States, a lady who, it is + said, was the wife of the American consul, discovered the deliciousness of + this fruit. So pleased was she that she determined to share her enjoyment + with others; so upon her return to her own country, she described this + orange to Mr. Saunders, head of the government’s experimental farm at + Washington. He became interested in the subject, sent to Bahia, and had + twelve navel trees propagated by budding. These were shipped to + Washington, where they arrived safely, and were placed in the orangery + there. They all grew, and from them a large number of trees were budded. + </p> + <p> + Still they had not reached California. Bringing them to the Pacific coast + was also the work of a woman. Mrs. Tibbetts, wife of a fruit grower of + Riverside, was visiting in Washington and to her Mr. Saunders presented + two navel orange trees, which she brought home with her. They were planted + beside her doorstep in Riverside. The trees grew rapidly, and when they + bore fruit it did not take the California orange growers long to discover + that here they had a treasure of more value than the largest nugget of + gold ever found in the state. + </p> + <p> + It was at a citrus fair in Riverside in 1879 that this golden king first + appeared before the world. Then from all over southern California came + orange men to get buds from these trees. Back home they went with the + precious bits of life. Acres of seedling oranges were quickly shorn of + their green crowns. Cut, cut, went knife and shears till only the stock + was left, and then into a carefully made slit in the bark was placed the + navel bud. It soon sprouted, and everywhere one could see the stranger + growing sturdily on its adopted stem. Thousands of buds were sold from the + two parent trees until there were hundreds of thousands of their beautiful + children growing all over the state, giving golden harvests. + </p> + <p> + If we owe to two ladies the success of orange culture in California, it + was a third who saved the industry when ruin threatened it. For a while + all went merrily with the orange grower; then in some way, from Australia, + there came into the country an insect pest called the cushiony scale, + which settled on the orange trees and seemed likely to destroy them. “What + can be done to save our trees?” was the cry from the people of the + southland. What they did was to bring from Australia a different visitor, + the dainty bug called the ladybird. She was eagerly welcomed. No one + dreamed of bidding her, in the words of the old nursery rhyme, “fly away + home.” She was carried to the diseased orchards, where she settled on the + scale, and as it was her favorite food, she soon had the trees clean + again. In time other pests came to trouble vine and fruit growers, but it + is interesting to know that scientists nearly always succeeded in finding + some insect enemy of the troublesome visitor, which would help the + horticulturist out of his difficulties. + </p> + <p> + In the business of orange-growing, success is due in a large measure to + care in the picking, packing, and shipping of the fruit—care even in + those little things that seem almost of no consequence. The more + particular Californians are to ship only the best fruit in the best + condition and properly packed, the higher prices will the fruit bring, the + higher reputation the state gain. + </p> + <p> + The lemon industry comes closely second to the orange. This fruit does not + need so much heat as does the orange, but neither can it stand so much + cold. It needs more water, but it bears more fruit and can be marketed the + year round. The lemons not sold as fresh fruit are made to yield such + products as citric acid, oil of lemon, from which cooking essences are + made, and candied lemon peel. In this latter branch of the trade, however, + the citron is more generally used, though it is not of so delicate a + flavor. + </p> + <p> + The pomelo, or grape fruit, is fast gaining in favor and increasing in + value. + </p> + <p> + To the stranger who visits California the orange is the most interesting + of trees. To pick an orange with her own hands, and to pin on her breast a + bunch of the fragrant blossoms, is to an Eastern woman one of the most + pleasant experiences of her visit to the Golden State. + </p> + <p> + In the history of the growth of southern California, and especially of its + orange culture, the use of water on the soil plays a prominent part. It + was the discovery that the most sandy and unpromising-looking land became + a miracle of fertility when subjected to the irrigating stream, that + caused the wonderful prosperity of the dry portions of the state. + </p> + <p> + Irrigation, which means the turning of water from a well, spring, or + stream, upon land to promote the growth of plant life, has been used by + mankind for thousands of years. In Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico, + there are remains of irrigation canals made by people who lived so long + ago that we know nothing of their history. + </p> + <p> + The padres who settled California were adepts in this science. In founding + a mission they always chose its site near some stream, the water of which + could be turned upon the cultivated fields; and the dams, canals, and + reservoirs which the padres constructed were so well built that many of + them have lasted until the present time. + </p> + <p> + It will seem strange to many people to learn that the highest-priced, most + fertile farm lands in the United States are not to be found in the rich + valleys of the Eastern states or the prairies of the middle West, but in + the dry region between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. + Colorado, which belongs to the land of little rain, has in proportion to + its size the richest mines of any state in the Union, yet the product of + its farms, all irrigated, equals the output of its mineral wealth. + </p> + <p> + All the flourishing towns of southern California depend for their + wonderful prosperity upon the fertility of the irrigated country + surrounding them. + </p> + <p> + Trees and plants require water for their growth, but they do not all need + it in like quantity, nor at the same time; therefore, the scientific + farmer on arid lands, where there is an abundance of water for irrigation, + has an immense advantage over his Eastern brother who depends for water + upon the rainfall alone. + </p> + <p> + While the valuable raisin crop of the Californian is drying in the sun and + the slightest shower would damage, or perhaps ruin it, just beyond lies + the orange orchard, the trees of which are suffering for water. The fruit, + the size of a large walnut, is still hard and green, and must have an + abundance of the life-giving liquid if it is to develop into the rich + yellow orange, filled with delicious juice, which adorns the New Year’s + market. How would our ranchman prosper if he depended upon rain? As it is, + he furrows his orchard from its highest to its lowest level; then into the + flume which runs parallel with the highest boundary of the grove he turns + the water from pipe or reservoir, and opening the numerous little + slide-doors or sluice-gates of the flume, soon has the satisfaction of + seeing each furrow the bed of a running stream, the water of which sinks + slowly, steadily, down to the roots of the thirsty trees. After the water + has been flowing in this manner for some hours, it is shut off, for it has + done enough work. In a day or two the ranchman runs the cultivator over + the ground of the orchard, leaving the soil fine and crumbly and the trees + in perfect condition for another six or eight weeks of growth. + </p> + <p> + The first attempts of the American immigrant at irrigation were very + simple—just the making of a furrow turning the water of a stream + upon his land. Then, as he desired to cultivate more land and raise larger + crops, his ditches had to be longer, often having branches. Soon neighbors + came in and settled above and below him. They too used of the stream; + there was no law to control selfishness, so there were disagreements and + bitter quarrels over the water. Lawsuits followed and sometimes even + fighting and murders. The remedy for this state of things was found to be + in a company ditch, flume, or reservoir, with the use of water controlled + by fixed laws. + </p> + <p> + There are some crops, notably grapes, which are grown without irrigation. + The grapevine, instead of being treated as a climber, is each year trimmed + back to the main stem, which thus becomes a strong woody stalk, often a + foot or more in circumference, quite capable of withstanding the heat and + dryness of the atmosphere and of drawing from the soil all the nourishment + needed for the fruit. + </p> + <p> + Wheat, barley, and oats, both as grain and as hay, are largely raised + without irrigation. Olives, and many deciduous trees, by careful + cultivation may flourish without water other than the rainfall; yet + notwithstanding this, for a home in southern California, land without a + good water-right is of little value. + </p> + <p> + The wealth of the region is in a great measure in its expensive water + system, which, by means of reservoirs, dams, ditches, flumes, and pipes, + gathers the water from the mountain streams and conveys it to the thirsty + land below. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV. — California’s other Contributions to the World’s Bill + of Fare + </h2> + <p> + By 1874 people in the Eastern states had begun to talk of California + canned fruits. Apricots and the large white grape found ready sale, but + California raisins, though on the market, were not in demand. That line + from the old game “Malaga raisins are very fine raisins and figs from + Smyrna are better,” represented the idea of the public; and figs, raisins, + and prunes eaten in the United States all came from abroad. But how is it + to-day? + </p> + <p> + Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners of our Eastern friends owe much to + California. She sends the seedless raisins, candied orange and lemon peel, + the citron and beet sugar for the mince pies and plum puddings. Her + cold-storage cars carry to the winter-bound states the delicious white + celery of the peat lands, snow-white heads of cauliflower, crisp string + beans, sweet young peas, green squash, cucumbers, and ripe tomatoes. For + the salads are her olives and fresh lettuce dressed with the golden olive + oil of the Golden State. Of ripe fruits, she sends pears, grapes, oranges, + pomegranates. For desserts, she supplies great clusters of rich sugary + raisins, creamy figs, stuffed prunes, and soft-shelled almonds and + walnuts. All these and other delicacies California gives toward the + holiday making in the East. + </p> + <p> + But it is not only to the homes of the wealthy that she carries good + cheer; to people who have very little money to spend, and those who are + far away from civilization, as soldiers, surveyors, woodmen, and + road-builders, California’s products go to help make palatable fare. To + these her canned meats, fish, and vegetables, and canned and dried fruits, + are very welcome. + </p> + <p> + The canneries and fruit-packing establishments of the state bring in many + millions of dollars each year and give employment to a host of people, a + large number of whom are women and young girls. + </p> + <p> + Most of the fruits California now raises came into the country with the + padres. Captain Vancouver tells us that he found at the Santa Clara + mission, at the time of his visit in 1792, a fine orchard consisting of + apples, pears, peaches, plums, apricots; and at San Buenaventura all these + with the addition of oranges, grapes, and pomegranates. Alfred Robinson + describes the orchards and vineyards of San Gabriel mission as very + extensive. Wine and brandy were made at most of the missions, San Fernando + being especially noted for its brandy. Guadalupe Vallejo tells of bananas + plantains, sugar cane, citrons, and date palms growing at the southern + missions. Palm trees were planted “for their fruit, for the honor of St. + Francis, and for use on Palm Sunday.” + </p> + <p> + Not only did the padres enjoy fresh fruits from their gardens, but raisins + were dried from the grapes, citron, orange, and lemon peel were candied, + and much fruit was preserved. It is not recorded that they had pumpkin pie + in those days, but a small, fine-grained pumpkin was raised extensively + for preserves. It is still a favorite dainty among the native + Californians, and no Spanish dinner is complete without this dulce, as it + is called. Spanish-American housewives excel their American sisters in the + art of preserving. Pumpkin, peach, pear, fig, are all treated in the same + manner, being first soaked in lye, then thoroughly washed and scalded in + abundance of fresh water, and then cooked in a very heavy sirup. The + result of this treatment is that the outside of the fruit is crisp and + brittle, while the inside is creamy and delicious. + </p> + <p> + The first of California’s dried fruits to come before the public was the + raisin. Raisins are merely the proper variety of grapes suitably dried. + Some think that they are dipped in sugar, but this is not the fact. The + only sugar is that contained in the juice of the grape, which should be + about one fourth sugar. The only raisin grape for general use is the + greenish variety called the Muscat. The rich purple or chocolate color of + the raisin of the market is caused by the action of the sun while the + raisin is being cured. If dried in the shade the fruit has a sickly + greenish hue. The seedless Sultana is a small grape, fast coming into + favor for a cooking raisin. + </p> + <p> + The proper planting of a raisin vineyard requires a large amount of care + and labor. But the summer is one long holiday, as there is little to do to + the vines from early May until August. Then comes picking time. From all + the country round gather men and women, boys and girls, and the work + begins. + </p> + <p> + To be a successful raisin grower and packer, one must take care in all + little things. The workman who neglects to cut from the branch the + imperfect or bad grapes, or who lays the fruit in the trays so that it + will be in heaps or overlapped, is apt to be soon discharged. After about + a week of exposure to the sun and air, the grapes are turned by placing an + empty tray over a full one, and reversing the positions. Then after a few + days longer in the sun, the fruit goes to the sweat-box, a hundred pounds + to the box, and is placed in a room in the packing house, where it lies + about ten days. The bunches go into this room unequally dried, with still + a look and taste of grape about them, but after this sweating process they + come out uniform in appearance, rich, sugary, tempting,—the raisins + of commerce, with little suggestion of the fruit from which they came. + Then they are boxed. + </p> + <p> + There are generally three grades: very choice clusters, ordinary and + imperfect bunches, and loose raisins. Raisins of the third class are sent + to the stemmer and a large proportion of them then go to the seeder. + Seeding raisins for mother and grandmother at holiday times used to be the + duty and pleasure of the older boys and girls of the household. But + seeding is now done by machinery. A machine will seed on an average ten + tons daily. Before entering the seeder the raisins are subjected to a + thorough brushing, by which every particle of dust is removed. They are + then run through rubber rollers which flatten the fruit and press the + seeds to the surface; then through another pair of rollers, with wire + teeth which catch and hold the seeds while the raisins pass on down a long + chute to the packing room, where women and girls box them for market. + </p> + <p> + With all fruits the drying process is much the same, though peaches, + apples, and pears are first peeled. California figs, when dried, sell + well. This is a fruit which is growing in favor, whether fresh, preserved, + or dried. Fruit canning is an interesting process. The fruit is not boiled + in sirup and then placed in cans, as is frequently the custom in home + preserving, but when peeled it is placed directly in the cans, in which it + receives all its cooking and in which it is finally marketed. + </p> + <p> + The raising of beets and the converting of them into sugar form an + industry which is growing rapidly, and is of the utmost importance to the + people of the Pacific slope. + </p> + <p> + The canning of fresh vegetables is a new industry which is bringing into + the state a steady stream of money, and in addition is proving a double + blessing to thousands of people, both those who gain from it their living, + and those who could not otherwise have vegetables for food. A sailor said + recently that if he could not be a sailor he would do the next best thing—can + vegetables for other sailors. When Galvez received the order from the king + of Spain to found settlements in Upper California, one of the chief + reasons for so doing was that fresh vegetables might be raised for the + sailors engaged in the Philippine trade. To-day the Philippines use a + large portion of California’s canned goods. + </p> + <p> + In the southern counties olive orchards are being extensively planted. + Near San Fernando is the largest in the world, covering thirteen hundred + acres. Doctors have said that a liberal use of California olive oil will + do much to promote the good health of mankind, and it is thought by many + that the manufacture of olive oil will be one of the greatest industries + the state has known. + </p> + <p> + Nut raising is keeping pace with fruit in importance. To an Eastern person + it seems strange to see nut-bearing trees cultivated in orchards; though + profitable, this method does away with the pleasures of nutting parties. + </p> + <p> + California’s crystallized fruits are in constant demand, especially for + the Christmas trade. This crystallizing is a process in which the juice is + extracted and replaced with sugar sirup, which hardens and preserves the + fruit from decay while still keeping the shape. + </p> + <p> + One sometimes reads the saying, “Fresno for raisins, Santa Clara for + cherries and prunes, and the northern counties and mountain-ranches for + apples.” But in fact, California’s fruit industries are well distributed + over the state, and the really excellent work which is being done in all + sections will still advance as the people learn more of the necessary + details and methods. + </p> + <p> + In spite of mistakes and experiments the steady progress on the California + ranches is being recognized. Of one of our leading fruit growers, Mr. + Eliwood Cooper of Santa Barbara, the Marquis of Lorne writes in the + Youth’s Companion: “He has shown that California can produce better olive + oil than France, Spain, or Italy, and English walnuts and European almonds + in crops of which the old country hardly even dreams.” + </p> + <p> + A history of California’s products would be incomplete without a reference + to him who is called the “Wonder Worker of Santa Rosa.” “Magician! + Conjurer!” are terms frequently applied to Mr. Luther Burbank, the man who + is acknowledged by the scientists of the world to have done more with + fruits and flowers than any other man. Mr. Burbank waves his wand, and the + native poppy turns to deepest crimson, the white of the calla lily becomes + a gorgeous yellow, rose and blackberry lose their thorns, the cactus its + spines. The meat of the walnut and almond become richer in quality, while + their shells diminish to the thinness of a knife blade. + </p> + <p> + Yet in these seeming miracles there is nothing of “black art” or sleight + of hand. The experiments of this wonderful man, the surprising results he + gains, are obtained, first by a close study of the laws of nature, then, + where he desires change and improvement, by assisting her process, often + through years of closest application and unceasing toil. He is a man of + whom it is truthfully said, “He has led a life of hardships, has + sacrificed self at every point, that he might glorify and make more + beautiful the world around him.” Any boy or girl who knows something of + how plants grow and reproduce themselves will find great pleasure in + following Mr. Burbank’s simple methods. + </p> + <p> + It is only recently that his countrymen have begun to appreciate the work + of this great naturalist. A short time ago a resident of Berkeley, a + student and book-lover, one who knew Mr. Burbank but had given little + attention to his productions, was in Paris. While there he had the good + fortune to be present at a lecture delivered before a gathering of the + most eminent scientists of Europe. In the course of his address the + speaker had occasion to mention the name of Luther Burbank. Instantly + every man in the audience arose and stood a moment in silence, giving to + the simple mention of Mr. Burbank’s name the respect usually paid to the + presence of royalty. It is a name now known in all the languages of the + civilized world, and numbers of the wisest of the world’s citizens cross + the ocean solely to visit the busy plant-grower of Santa Rosa. + </p> + <p> + Luther Burbank was born in Worcester, Massachusetts, in 1849, and while + yet a lad his strongest desire was to produce new plants better than the + old ones. His first experiment was with a vegetable. For the sake of + getting seed, he planted some Early Rose potatoes in his mother’s garden. + In the whole patch only one seed-ball developed, and this he watched with + constant care. Great was his disappointment, therefore, when one morning, + just as it was ready to be picked, he found that it had disappeared. A + careful search failed to recover the missing ball, but as he thought the + matter over, while at work, it struck Luther that perhaps a dog had + knocked it off in bounding through the garden. Looking more carefully for + it, he found the ball twenty feet away from the vine on which it had hung. + In it were twenty-three small, well-developed seeds. These he planted with + great care, and from one of them came the first Burbank potatoes. The + wealth of the country was materially increased by this discovery; the + wealth of the boy only to the amount of one hundred and twenty-five + dollars, which he used in attending a better school than he had before + been able to enjoy. + </p> + <p> + In 1875 Mr. Burbank, to secure, as he said, “a climate which should be an + ally and not an enemy to his work,” moved to Santa Rosa, California. For + ten years of poverty and severe toil he was engaged, for the sake of a + livelihood, in the nursery business, making, in the meantime, such + experiments as he had time for. During the next twenty years, however, Mr. + Burbank was able to give nearly his whole time to his nature-studies. His + energy is tireless, and his aim is to supply to humanity something for + beauty, sustenance, or commerce better than it has possessed. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps among all his productions the greatest good to the world will + arise from the spineless cactus. The scourge of the American desert is the + cactus, commonly known as the prickly pear, the whole surface of which is + covered with fine, needlelike spines, while its leaves are filled with a + woody fiber most hurtful to animal life. When eaten by hunger-crazed + cattle it causes death. After years of labor Mr. Burbank has succeeded in + developing from this most unpromising of plants a perfected cactus which + is truly a storehouse of food for man and beast. Spines and woody fiber + have disappeared, leaving juicy, pear-shaped leaves, weighing often + twenty-five or fifty pounds, which, when cooked in sirup, make a delicious + preserve, and in their natural state furnish a nourishing, + thirst-quenching food for domestic animals. The fruit of this immense + plant is aromatic and delicate, and its seeds are at present worth far + more than their weight in gold, since from them are to spring thousands of + plants by means of which it is believed the uninhabitable portions of the + desert may be made to support numberless herds of cattle. + </p> + <p> + Another of Mr. Burbank’s achievements is the evergreen crimson rhubarb, + which is not only far less acid than the old variety, but richer in flavor + and a giant in size. + </p> + <p> + The pomato, a tomato grown on a potato plant, is most interesting. The + plant is a free bearer, having a white, succulent, delicious fruit, + admirable when cooked, used in a salad, or eaten fresh as our other fruit. + </p> + <p> + The experiments with prunes conducted at the Santa Rosa ranch have been of + the greatest value to the state. For forty years the prune growers of the + Pacific slope had been searching for a variety of this fruit which would + be as rich in sugar and as abundant a bearer as the little California + prune of commerce, and yet of a larger size, and earlier in its time of + ripening. Mr. Burbank with his famous sugar prune filled all these + requirements, and revolutionized the prune industry of the state. Besides + this triumph he has succeeded in obtaining a variety of this fruit having + a shell-less kernel, so that the fruit when dried much resembles those + which are artificially stuffed. + </p> + <p> + The flowers which Mr. Burbank has evolved by his methods, and those which + he has simply enlarged and glorified, are far too numerous to be named + here. + </p> + <p> + In 1905 a grant of ten thousand dollars a year was bestowed upon Mr. + Burbank by the Carnegie Institution of Washington, D.C., for the purpose + of assisting him in his experiments. Seldom has money been better placed. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI. — The Hidden Treasures of Mother Earth + </h2> + <p> + Thousands of years ago, before the time of which we have any history, + there were rivers in California,—rivers now dead,—whose sides + were steeper and whose channels were wider than those of the rivers in the + same part of the world to-day. Rapid streams they were, and busy, too; + washing away from the rocks along their sides the gold held there, + dropping the yellow grains down into the gravelly beds below. After a time + there came down upon these rivers a volcanic outflow; great quantities of + ashes, streams of lava and cement, burying them hundreds of feet deep, + until over them mountain ridges extended for miles and miles. + </p> + <p> + Other changes in the earth’s surface took place, and in the course of time + our streams of to-day were formed. As they cut their way through the + mountain ranges, some of them crossed the channels of old dead rivers, and + finding the gold hidden there, carried some of it along, rolling it over + and over, mixed with sand and gravel, down into the lower lands under the + bright sunlight. Here it was found by Marshall and the gold hunters who + followed him. These were the placer mines of which we read in Chapter VII. + — Gradually the best placer mines were taken up and the newcomers to + the gold fields traced the precious metal up the streams into the gravel + of the hillsides. Then was begun hydraulic mining, where water did the + work. In the canons great dams were constructed to catch the flow from the + melting snows of the mountains, and miles of flumes were built to carry + the water to the mining grounds. Immense pipes were laid and altogether + millions of dollars were invested in hydraulic mining. The water coming + down under heavy pressure from the mountain reservoirs passed through + giant hose which would carry a hundred miner’s inches, and, striking the + mountain side with terrific force, washed away the earth from the rocks. + Down fell the sand and gravel into sluices or boxes of running water where + cleats and other arrangements caught and held the gold, which was heavy, + while the lighter mixture was carried out into the canyon. + </p> + <p> + The material thus dumped on the mountain side was called debris, and to + any one living in the mining region of the state that word means trouble—means + fighting, lawsuits, ruin. For the debris did not stay up in the canyon, + but was washed down into the rivers, overflowing farm lands, spoiling + crops and orchards, and making the streams shallow, their waters muddy. So + great was the destruction this process caused that, in 1893, the Congress + of the United States enacted a law which provided for the creation of a + Debris Commission to regulate the business of hydraulic mining in + California. The result of the investigations of this commission was to put + a stop to all hydraulic mining in territory drained by the San Joaquin and + Sacramento rivers, or any other territory where the use of this form of + mining should injure the river systems or lands adjacent. Thus, almost in + a moment, the important industry was stopped. + </p> + <p> + It is estimated that over one hundred million dollars were invested in + hydraulic mining. Much of this was entirely lost, as the expensive + machinery rusted and the water system fell into ruins. It was very hard + for the miners, as well as for the commerce of the state, but the act of + the government was based upon the principle that one man’s business must + not damage another man’s property. Clever engineers in the pay of the + government are still trying to find some way by which the debris can be + safely disposed of in order that this valuable system may resume + operation. + </p> + <p> + Deprived of the use of water as their agent, gold hunters next tried + mining by drifts; that is, by tunneling into the mountain’s side until the + bed of a buried river is reached. These tunnels are often five thousand to + eight thousand feet long. The gold is brought out of the ground before it + is washed clean of the gravel. Sometimes it is mixed with cement, when it + has to be crushed in rollers before it can be cleared of other material. + The counties where drift mining is most in operation are Placer, Nevada, + and Sierra. + </p> + <p> + Quartz mining is the most expensive manner of getting out gold, and a + great deal of valuable and complicated machinery has been invented for + this branch of the business. The quartz mines of California are among the + richest in the world, and some of the greatest fortunes of modern times + have been made from them. + </p> + <p> + In a mine of this kind there is generally a shaft, or opening, extending + straight down into the earth, from which, at different levels, passageways + branch out where the veins of gold are richest. The openings must be + timbered to prevent caving in, and there must be pumps to remove the water + as well as hoisting works to take out the material. Then on the surface, + as near as possible to the mouth of the mine, must be located the quartz + mill. When possible, a tunnel is used in this mining, which makes the + handling of ore less expensive, for then there need be no hoisting works + or pumps, since the tunnel drains itself. + </p> + <p> + Gold in quartz rock is generally in ledges or veins, one to three feet in + width. Digging it out is not very hard, save where there is not enough + room to stand upright and use the pick, or when, in a shaft deep in the + ground, the heat makes it difficult to work. A California boy at the mines + wrote recently: “Mining is not so bad; that is, if I could get along + without the occasional whack I bestow upon my left hand. Last week I + started a little tunnel and pounded my hand so that it swelled up + considerably. Drilling is not hard, and loading is a snap, but it’s all + interesting work and there is the excitement of seeing what you are going + to find next.” + </p> + <p> + When the ore reaches the surface it is sent to the mill, where it is first + pulverized, then mixed with a chemical which goes about catching up the + grains of gold—arresting and holding them fast. It is quite a long + process before the gold is completely separated from all other material + and ready for shipment. Often the quartz contains other minerals of value, + the separation of which requires much work. + </p> + <p> + There is a very rich mine in Nevada called the Comstock, which some years + ago had sunk its shafts so deep into the earth that it became almost + impossible for the miners to work on account of the great heat, the bad + air, and the quantity of water which had constantly to be pumped out. How + these troubles were remedied is the story of one of California’s greatest + and best citizens. Adolph Sutro was a Prussian by birth, and his adopted + state may well be proud to claim him. He had built a little quartz mill in + Nevada, near the Comstock mine. Seeing the suffering of the workmen in all + the mines on that mountain side, he thought of a plan for the construction + of a large tunnel which was to begin at a low level at the nearest point + of the Carson River and run deep into the mountain so that it could drain + all the rich mining section, give good ventilation for the deep + underground works, and afford a much cheaper and more convenient way of + taking care of the ore. It was to be four miles long, with branches + extending from it to different mines. Its height was to be ten feet; + width, twelve, with a drainage trench in the center to carry away the + waste water to the Carson River, and tracks on each side for the passage + of mules and cars. + </p> + <p> + At first the mine owners were pleased with the project, and Mr. Sutro + succeeded in forming a company to build the tunnel. Then he went to + Washington, where the government became so interested in his plans that on + July 25, 1866, there was passed an act of Congress granting Sutro such + privileges in regard to public lands as would safeguard his work. About + the time that the news of this action reached the West, the men who owned + the mines and had made an arrangement for the use of the tunnel, decided + that they did not want the work done; it is said, for the reason that they + found Mr. Sutro too wise and far-seeing for them to be able to manage him. + At all events, with all their wealth and power they tried to ruin him. + They said that his plans were worthless, and any one was foolish to invest + in the tunnel company. Then Mr. Sutro, by means of lectures upon the + subject, appealed to the people. In California, Nevada, the Eastern + states, and even Europe, he told what his plans would do for the miners + and the good of the country. It was not long before he gained all the help + he needed, and the great work was begun. + </p> + <p> + As the workmen progressed into the mountain side there were many + difficulties to overcome. Day and night without ceasing the work went on. + Laborers would faint from the combined heat and bad air, and be carried to + the outer world to be revived. Carpenters followed the drillers, trackmen + coming closely after. Loose rock, freshly blasted, was tumbled into + waiting cars and hauled away over rails laid perhaps but half an hour + before. Constantly in the front was Sutro himself, coat flung aside, + sleeves rolled up. In the midst of the flying dirt, great heat, bad air, + dripping slush, and slippery mud he worked side by side with the grimy, + half-naked miners, thus showing himself capable not only of planning a + great work, but of seeing personally that it was well done, no matter with + what sacrifice to his own ease and comfort. + </p> + <p> + After the tunnel was completed, Mr. Sutro sold his interest in it for + several millions of dollars. How that money was expended, any visitor to + San Francisco well knows. With it were built the great Sutro baths, with + their immense tanks of pure and constantly changing, tempered ocean water, + their many dressing rooms, their grand staircases, adorned with rare + growing plants, their tiers of seats rising in rows, one above another, + with room for thousands of spectators, and their galleries of pictures and + choice works of art. Over all is a roof of steel and tinted glass. Nowhere + else in America is there so fine a bathing establishment. + </p> + <p> + Besides this there are the lovely gardens of Sutro Heights, developed by + Mr. Sutro’s money and genius from the barren sand-hills of the San Miguel + rancho. In addition to these is the choice library of about two hundred + thousand volumes, which is of great use to the people of San Francisco. + Perhaps neither San Francisco nor California has yet quite appreciated the + value of the work of Adolph Sutro. + </p> + <p> + Since 1848 the state of California has sent to the United States Mint over + one billion dollars in gold. Of this, little Nevada County, which seems to + be worth literally her weight in gold, has sent over two hundred and forty + million. The Empire Mine is the leading producer of California, but there + are others nearly as rich. Nevada City is in the center of this mining + country. The streets are very hilly, and after a heavy rain people may be + seen searching the city gutters and newly-formed rivulets for gold, and + they are sometimes rewarded by finding fair-sized nuggets washed down from + the hills above. + </p> + <p> + A visitor to one of the deep mines of California says:— + </p> + <p> + “We descended to the seven hundred foot level, where the day before a pile + of ore had been blasted down. A little piece of the quartz, crushed in a + mortar panned out four dollars in gold. I picked out one piece of rock, + not larger than a peach, and the manager, after weighing and testing it, + announced that it contained ten dollars in free gold. The kick of a boot + would reveal ore which showed glittering specks of pure gold.” + </p> + <p> + In the estimate of many people all very valuable mines are supposed to be + of gold, but this is a mistake. While gold is king in California, copper + mining is rapidly becoming of great importance. A continuous copper belt, + the largest yet discovered in the world, exists under her soil, and while + a comparatively small depth has been so far attained, the profit has been + considerable. One of the largest quicksilver mines in the world is at New + Almaden. The value of the output of the borax mines is over a million + dollars a year. There were mined in California in 1907 over fifty + different materials, most of them at a value of several thousand dollars a + year, with some as high as a million and over. + </p> + <p> + The mineral product of California outranking gold in value is petroleum, + which has added greatly to the wealth of the state. Natural gas and + mineral waters are also valuable commercial products. + </p> + <p> + To many, the most interesting class among minerals is the gems, of which + California yields a variety. The beautiful lilac stone, Kunzite, was + discovered near Pala, San Diego County. This county has also some fine + specimens of garnets, and beautiful tourmalines are being mined at a + profit. San Bernardino County yields a superior grade of turquoise from + which has been realized as much as eleven thousand dollars a year. + Chrysoprase is being mined in Tulare County, also the beautiful new green + gem something like clear jade, called Californite. Topaz, both blue and + white, is being found, and besides these, many diamonds of good quality + have been collected, principally from the gravels of the hydraulic mines. + In 1907 there was discovered in the mountains of San Benito County a + beautiful blue stone closely resembling sapphire, more brilliant but less + durable. It was named, by professors of mineralogy in the state + university, Benitite, from the place where it was discovered. + </p> + <p> + Perhaps the most valuable of all the products of California is its water + supply, either visible as in springs and streams, or underground as in + artesian water. Of its use in irrigation, we have already spoken. In the + production of electricity it is coming to be of the greatest importance, + making possible the most stupendous works of modern times. Such is the + undertaking of the Edison Electric Company in bringing down to Los + Angeles, over many miles of the roughest country, power from the Kern + River, tapping the tumultuous stream far up in the Sierras. The taking of + the necessary machinery to those heights was in itself a wonderful labor. + The power thus created is a blessing to a wide region. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII. — From La Escuela of Spanish California to the Schools + of the Twentieth + </h2> + <p> + Century + </p> + <p> + In no line has California advanced so far beyond the days of the padres as + in her schools. In the early settlements there were no educated people but + the priests at the missions and the Spanish officers with their families + at the presidios. Later, clever men of good families came into the + territory, took up land, and made their homes on the great ranchos, but + among these there were few who would take the time or trouble to teach the + children; so life to the young people was a long holiday. The sad result + was that they grew up so ignorant as to astonish the educated strangers + who visited the coast. + </p> + <p> + At the missions the padres had schools where they taught the young Indians + something of reading and writing, religious services and songs, and the + trades necessary for life. This, with their duties in the church and the + extensive building and planting of the mission settlements, took all the + time of the hard-working priests. Occasionally, an educated woman would + teach her own children and those of her relatives, but like most attempts + at home education, it was so interrupted as to amount to little. + </p> + <p> + In 1794 a new governor came from Spain who was so shocked at this state of + affairs that he at once ordered three schools opened. The first, December, + 1794, was held in a granary at San Jose and was in charge of a retired + sergeant of the Spanish army. The children had been so long free from all + restraint that they did not like to go to school, and their parents did + not always take the trouble to insist. There were some reasons for this, + as the masters did not know much about what they were trying to teach, and + the use of the ferule and scourge (the latter a whip of cords tipped with + iron) was frequent and cruel. There were no books but primers, and these + were hard to obtain. The writing, paper was furnished by the military + authorities and had to be returned when the child was through with it, + that it might be used in making cartridges. These schools were for boys + only, girls not being expected to learn anything except cooking, sewing, + and embroidery. + </p> + <p> + Slowly the state of things improved, and in 1829 in the yearly report to + the Mexican government, it was stated that there were eleven primary + schools in the province with three hundred and thirty-nine boys and girls. + One of the best of these schools was that of Don Ignacio Coronel of Los + Angeles. + </p> + <p> + In 1846 the first American school was opened at Santa Clara by Mrs. Oliver + Mann Isbell. It provided for children from about twenty emigrant families + and was held in a room of the Santa Clara mission on the great patio. The + floor was of earth, the seats boxes; an opening in the tiled roof over the + center of the room allowing the smoke to escape when, on rainy days, a + fire was built on a rude platform of stones set in the middle of the + floor. Wherever the Americans lived, they would have schools, although + their first buildings were bare and inconvenient, with no grace or + adornment either inside or out. In some out-of-the-way places, whole terms + of school were spent most happily under spreading live oaks. + </p> + <p> + In the making of the first constitution, educational matters were not + forgotten; one section providing that there should be a common school + system supported by money from the sale of public lands. On account of the + minerals the lands so allotted were supposed to contain, it was believed + that they would sell for such vast amounts that the state would have money + sufficient for the grandest public schools that ever existed. In fact + these lands brought in altogether, after a number of years, less than a + quarter of a million dollars. The act provided also that the schools be + kept open three months in the year. An effort was made to extend this + period to six months, but was defeated by Senator Gwin. + </p> + <p> + Considering the state of the country when the public schools were begun, + and the short time in which they have been developed, the California free + schools are a credit to the state and to the men and women who have helped + to make them what they are. No community is so poor and remote but that it + may have its school if the inhabitants choose to organize for the purpose. + Hardly can the settler find a ranch from which his children may not attend + a district school over which floats the stars and stripes. + </p> + <p> + Money for educational purposes is now raised by state and county taxes on + property, this sum, in cities, being largely increased by the addition of + the city taxes. High schools have only recently been given state aid, and + that moderately; the larger ones still depending, in a great measure, upon + the special tax of the city, district, or county, according to the class + to which the school belongs. The state supports one Polytechnic school, + that at San Luis Obispo, where there are three courses, agriculture, + mechanics, and domestic science. + </p> + <p> + About 1878, in the endeavor to teach the children of the worst parts of + San Francisco a right way of living, the free kindergartens were begun. + Perhaps their success cannot be better shown than in the fact that in the + first year of the work along “Barbary coast,” one of the most turbulent + districts of the city, the Italian fruit and vegetable dealers who lived + there, brought the teachers a purse of seventy-five dollars, because the + children had been taught not to steal their fruits and vegetables or to + break their windows. The first free kindergarten was started on Silver + Street in “Tar Flats” and had for its teacher a pretty young girl, with + beautiful eyes and a mass of bronze-colored hair, whom the ragged little + urchins soon learned to adore. That little school was the beginning of one + of the best kindergarten systems in the country, and the pretty young + teacher is now Kate Douglas Wiggin, one of America’s best loved writers, + the author of those delightful books, “The Birds’ Christmas Carol,” + “Timothy’s Quest” and others equally interesting. There have been many + gifts to these kindergartens. In memory of their only son, Mr. and Mrs. + Leland Stanford gave one hundred thousand dollars, while Mrs. Phoebe + Hearst supported entirely three of the schools. Kindergartens may now form + part of the primary department in the school system of any community so + desiring, and are to be found in most of the cities. + </p> + <p> + Nothing in the educational work of California is of more importance than + the five normal schools, which graduate each year hundreds of teachers + thoroughly prepared in all branches for the important work of training the + children of the state. + </p> + <p> + As the crown of the free school system, stands the state university at + Berkeley. Many an interesting story might be told of the noble men, who as + early as 1849 began their long struggle to gain for the youth of + California the chance for higher education. The Reverend Samuel Willey, + the American consul Mr. Larkin, and Mr. Sherman Day were leaders in this + enterprise. There was much against them; men’s thoughts were almost + entirely given to the necessities of everyday life, and few seemed able to + see that a grand and beautiful future was coming to the new territory. The + university secured its charter in 1868, but it was not until the adoption + of the new constitution in 1879 that it was placed on a firm basis which + could not be changed by each new legislature. + </p> + <p> + The coming of Mr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler to the presidency was one of the + best strokes of fortune the institution has ever known. Under his + management it has taken a great stride forward. In the work it does, and + the high standard it demands, it takes its place side by side with the + best universities of the older Eastern states. The work of its college of + agriculture is becoming of great service to the farmer and fruit grower. + The result of its experiments in determining the best wheat for the soil + is of very great importance to the grain industry of the state. + </p> + <p> + Connected with the university are: the Lick Observatory on Mount Hamilton; + the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, the Hastings College of Law, and + Colleges of Medicine, Dentistry, and Pharmacy, in San Francisco; and an + admirable University Extension Course which offers its advantages to the + people of any locality throughout the state who may desire its help. + </p> + <p> + One of the most practical and important associations in the state is the + Farmer’s Institute, which, under direction and control of the university, + holds a three days’ meeting once a month in each locality throughout the + state. Also, once a year, an institute of a week’s duration is held at + Berkeley, where eminent scientists give their services, and the results + are most helpful. + </p> + <p> + The university has received many gifts from distinguished citizens. Mrs. + Phoebe Hearst has devoted much of her time and a large amount of her money + to its improvement, and plans are under way to make it the most finished + and beautiful educational institution ever owned by any state or country. + </p> + <p> + Barely one hour’s ride from San Francisco south, lies the Leland Stanford + Junior University, which at the time of its foundation, in 1885, was the + greatest gift ever bestowed upon humanity by any one person. In this noble + movement Mr. and Mrs. Stanford were as one. Their only son died in 1884, + and the university is a memorial of him, a grand example of the way in + which those who are dead may yet live, through the good done in their + names. Although entirely a private benefaction, its doors are open to + students absolutely free of all tuition charges. + </p> + <p> + This university started with a large endowment, but after the death of Mr. + Stanford, a lawsuit with the United States, and a shrinkage in the value + of the properties it owned, ran the finances so low that for a short time + it was found necessary to charge a small entrance fee. Even then, the + college was kept open only through the economy and self-sacrifice of Mrs. + Stanford and the members of the faculty, who stood by the institution with + noble unselfishness. By the year 1906 the financial condition had become + satisfactory and the attendance had materially increased. Two handsome new + buildings, one for the library and the other for the gymnasium, were about + completed when, on April 18, an earthquake, the most destructive ever + experienced on the Pacific coast, shook all the region around San + Francisco Bay. Stanford suffered severely: the two new buildings were + ruined; so, too, was the museum and a portion of the chemistry building. + Both the noble arch and the mosaics in the front of the memorial chapel + were destroyed. Beyond this, comparatively little damage was done to the + college buildings. The graduating exercises were postponed until the fall + term; otherwise the disaster did not interfere seriously with the routine + of study, neither did it affect the attendance in 1906-7, which was + unusually large. In the fall of 1907 President Jordan stated that he was + empowered to announce that Thomas Weldon Stanford, brother of Senator + Leland Stanford, had decided to give the university his own large fortune + of several millions. + </p> + <p> + It is generally recognized that the university owes a great part of its + present success to the splendid talents and faithfulness of President + Jordan, who has given the hardest labor of the best years of his busy life + to helping it onward and upward. Its educational work is thorough, and its + requirements are being steadily raised. It stands for the highest + education that is possible. Addition is constantly being made to its group + of noble buildings. Beautiful Stanford is the sparkling jewel in + California’s diadem. + </p> + <p> + Not far from the University of California in the suburbs of Oakland is + situated Mills College, which for many years was the only advanced school + for girls of which the state could boast. This institution had its + beginning as a seminary in Benicia, but was moved to its present situation + in 1871. In 1885 it became a college with a state charter. In plan of + studies and high Christian aim, it resembles Mount Holyoke, from which + many of its leading instructors have been graduated. + </p> + <p> + There is no place here to speak of all the leading private schools of the + state. Throop Polytechnic in Pasadena, the Thatcher School in the valley + of the Ojai, and Belmont Military Academy are among the best. A word, + however, must be said in tribute to Santa Clara College, without which the + California youth of from twenty to forty years ago would have been lacking + in that higher education which stands for so much in the making of a + state. Incorporated in 1851, it was opened with funds amounting to but one + hundred and fifty dollars, yet it grew steadily. With a clever Jesuit + faculty, this college has done admirable work of so thorough a character + as to win the praise of all those who have come in contact with its + results. From it have been graduated such men as Stephen M. White, + Reginaldo del Valle, and many other of our leading professional and + business men. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVIII. — Statistics + </h2> + <p> + The state of California lies between the parallels 32¡ and 42¡ north + latitude, extending over a space represented on the eastern coast by the + country between Edisto Inlet, South Carolina, and the northern point of + Cape Cod, Massachusetts. Its northern third lies between 120¡ and 124¡ 26’ + west longitude. From Cape Mendocino, its most westerly point, the coast + trends southeastward to San Diego Bay. The total coast line on the Pacific + is 1200 miles. + </p> + <p> + The state’s greatest width is 235 miles, which is between Point Conception + and the northern end of the Amaragosa Range on the Nevada line. It is + narrowest between Golden Gate and the southern end of Lake Tahoe. Its area + is 158,297 sq. miles, second only to Texas of all the states. + </p> + <p> + The population of California, according to the United States census of + 1920, is 3,426,861, which has since been greatly increased. The following + table shows the counties of the State:— + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Counties of California + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Area Population Valuation + Name Origin and Meaning of Name + Sq. Mi. 1920 1910 of Property County Seat + + Alameda Sp., Shaded promenade + 764 344,127 246,131 128,681,766 Oakland + Alpine + 710 243 309 422,063 Markleeville + Amador Sp., Sweetheart + 632 7,793 9,086 4,918,908 Jackson + Butte Fr., Rounded, detached hill + 1,660 30,030 27,301 16,057,766 Oroville + Calaveras Sp., Skul’s (from Indian battle ground) + 1,080 6,183 9,171 6,177,285 San Andreas + Colusa Ind. + 1,088 9,290 7,732 12,188,096 Colusa + Contra Costa Sp., Opposite coast + 728 53,889 31,674 21,753,956 Martinez + Del Norte Sp., Of the North + 992 2,759 2,417 2,882,445 Crescent City + Eldorado Sp., The gilded (name given to fabled land of gold) + 1,796 6,426 7,492 4,668,840 Placerville + Fresno Sp., Ash tree + 6,152 128,779 75,657 34,302,205 Fresno + Glenn + 1,270 11,853 7,172 10,645,524 Willow + Humboldt (named for Baron von Humboldt) + 3,496 37,413 33,857 24,911,492 Eureka + Imperial + 4,200 43,383 13,591 El Centro + Inyo + 10,294 7,031 6,974 2,316,319 Independence + Kern + 8,050 54,843 37,715 24,050,871 Bakersfield + Kings + 1,176 22,032 16,230 7,883,009 Hanford + Lake + 1,328 5,402 5,526 3,258,020 Lakeport + Lassen + 4,520 8,507 4,802 4,590,748 Susanville + Los Angeles Sp., The angels + 4,200 936,438 504,132 169,268,166 Los Angeles + Madera Sp., Timber + 2,062 12,203 8,368 6,732,495 Madera + Marin Ind. + 549 27,342 25,114 14,489,582 San Rafael + Mariposa Sp., Butterfly + 1,510 2,775 3,956 2,270,246 Mariposa + Mendocino Sp., (from Mendoza, viceroy of Mexico) + 3,626 24,116 23,929 13,131,995 Ukiah + Merced Sp., Mercy + 1,932 24,579 15,148 14,877,086 Merced + Modoc Ind. + 3,741 5,425 6,191 4,076,680 Alturas + Mono Sp., Monkey, or pretty + 3,020 960 2,042 1,151,109 Bridgeport + Monterey Sp., King’s forest + 3,340 27,980 24,146 18,962,554 Salinas + Napa Ind. + 780 20,678 19,800 13,840,291 Napa + Nevada Sp., Heavy fall of snow + 972 10,850 14,955 7,203,349 Nevada City + Orange (named for its chief product) + 750 61,375 34,436 13,812 Santa Ana + Placer Sp., Loose (from placer mines) + 1,365 18,584 18,237 9,677,724 Auburn + Plumas Sp., Feathers + 2,694 5,681 5,259 2,792,091 Quincy + Riverside + 7,323 50,297 34,696 16,373,296 Riverside + Sacramento Sp., The Sacrament + 1,000 90,978 67,806 41,333,337 Sacramento + San Benito Sp., St. Benedict + 1,388 8,995 8,041 6,499,068 Hollister + San Bernardino Sp., St. Bernard + 19,947 73,401 56,706 21,392,228 San Bernardino + San Diego Sp., St. James + 4,278 112,248 61,665 20,807,594 San Diego + San Francisco Sp., St. Francis (of Assisi) + 47 506,676 416,912 564,070,301 San Francisco + San Joaquin Sp., name of a saint + 1,396 79,905 50,732 34,740,353 Stockton + San Luis Obispo Sp., St. Louis the Bishop + 3,310 21,893 19,383 13,680,235 San Luis Obispo + San Mateo Sp., St. Matthew + 434 36,781 26,585 18,999,564 Redwood City + Santa Barbara Sp., St. Barbara + 2,632 41,097 27,738 18,849,976 Santa Barbara + Santa Clara Sp., name of a saint + 1,286 100,588 83,539 61,390,817 San Jose + Santa Cruz Sp., Holy Cross + 424 26,269 26,240 12,560,071 Santa Cruz + Shasta Fr., Chaste, pure + 3,876 13,311 18,920 10,902,036 Redding + Sierra Sp., Sawtoothed Ridge + 960 1,783 4,098 1,844,560 Downieville + Siskiyou + 5,991 13,545 18,801 10,560,650 Treks + Solano Sp., name of a mission + 900 40,602 27,559 20,195,481 Fairfield + Sonoma Ind., Valley of the Moon + 1,620 51,990 48,394 30,380,419 Santa Rosa + Stanislaus + 1,456 43,557 22,522 12,834,108 Modesto + Sutter (named for J. A. Sutter) + 622 10,115 6,328 6,621,047 Yuba City + Tehama + 3,008 12,882 11,401 11,674,562 Red Bluff + Trinity + 3,282 2,552 3,301 1,651,362 Weaverville + Tulare Sp., Reed-covered + 4,952 59,032 35,440 17,447,042 Visalia + Tuolumne Ind., Stone wigwams + 2,208 7,768 9,979 7,089,725 Sonora + Ventura Sp. + 1,722 28,724 18,347 11,171,219 Ventura + Yolo Ind., Rushes + 996 17,105 13,926 17,640,436 Woodland + Yuba Sp., Uba, wild grapes + 636 10,375 10,042 5,898,350 Marysville +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_LIST" id="link2H_LIST"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + List of Governors + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Gaspar de Portola, April, 1769 + Pedro Fages, July, 1770 + Fernando Rivera y Moncada, May 25, 1774 + Felipe de Neve, Feb. 3, 1777 + Pedro Fages, Sept. 1O, 1782 + Jose Romeu, April 16, 1791 + Jose Arrillaga, April 9, 1792 + Diego de Borica, May 14, 1794 + Jose Arrillaga, Jan. 16, 1800 + Jose Arguello, July 24, 1814 + Pablo de Sola, March 31, 1815 + + California became province of the Mexican Empire, April 11, 1822 + + Luis Arguello, Nov. 10, 1822, First native Governor. + + March 26, 1825, California became province of Mexican Republic. + + Jose Maria Echeandia, Nov. 8, 1825 + Manuel Victoria, Jan. 31, 1831 + Jose Maria Echeandia, Dec. 6, 1831 + Jose Figueroa, Jan. 15, 1833 + Jose Castro, Sept. 29, 1835 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Jan. 2, 1836 + Mariano Chico, May 3, 1836 + Nicolas Gutierrez, Sept. 6, 1836 + Jose Castro, Nov. 5, 1836 + Juan B. Alvarado, Dec. 7, 1836 + Manuel Micheltorena, Dec. 31, 1842 + Pio Pico, Feb. 22, 1845, to Aug. 10, 1846, end of Mexican rule. + + The following were Governors under Military Rule, U.S.A. + + John D. Sloat, July 7, 1846 + Robert F. Stockton, July 29, 1846 + John C. Fremont, Military Governor, Jan. 19, 1847, for 50 days + Stephen W. Kearny, Military Governor, March to May 31, 1847 + R. B. Mason, Military Governor, May 31, 1847 + Persifer F. Smith, Military Governor, Feb. 28, 1849 + Bennet Riley, April 12, 1849 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Peter H. Burnett, Dec. 20, 1849, First State Governor, Democratic, + received 6716 votes, total vote, 12,064. + John McDougall, Lieutenant Governor, became Governor Jan. 9, 1851, + Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 8, 1852, Democrat + John Bigler, Jan. 7, 1854, Democrat + John Neely Johnson, Jan. 9, 1856, American Party + John B. Weller, Jan. 8, 1858, Democrat + Milton S. Latham, Jan. 9, 1860, Democrat + John G. Downey (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Jan. 14, 1860, + Democrat + Leland Stanford, Jan. 10, 1862, Republican + Frederick F. Low, Dec. 10, 1863, Union Party + Henry H. Haight, Dec. 5, 1867, Democrat + Newton Booth, Dec. 8, 1871, Republican + Romualdo Pacheco (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Feb. 27, 1875, + Republican (native state Governor) + William Irwin, Dec. 8, 1875, Democrat + Geo. C. Perkins, Jan. 8, 1880, Republican + Geo. Stoneman, Jan. 10, 1883, Democrat + Washington Bartlett, Jan. 8, 1887, Democrat + Robert W. Waterman (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated Sept. 13, 1887, + Republican + H. H. Markham, Jan. 8, 1891, Republican + James H. Budd, Jan. II, 1895, Democrat + Henry T. Gage, Jan. 4, 1899, Republican + Geo. C. Pardee, Jan. 7, 1903, Republican + James N. Gillett, Jan. 9, 1907, Republican + Hiram W. Johnson, January, 1911, Republican; reelected on Progressive + ticket, 1914 + William D. Stephens (Lieutenant Governor), inaugurated March 15, 1917, + Progressive +</pre> + <p> + Electoral Vote + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1852, Democratic, 4 votes + 1856, Democratic, 4 votes + 1860, Republican, 4 votes + 1864, Republican, 5 votes + 1868, Republican, 5 votes + 1872, Republican, 6 votes + 1876, Republican, 6 votes + 1880 Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 5 votes + 1884, Republican, 8 votes + 1888, Republican, 8 votes + 1892, Republican, 1 vote + Democratic, 8 votes + 1896, Republican, 8 votes + Democratic, People’s and Silver parties, 1 vote + 1900, Republican, 9 votes + 1904, Republican, 9 votes + 1908, Republican, to votes + 1912, Democratic, 2 votes + Progressive, 11 votes + 1916, Democratic, 13 votes + 1920, Republican, 13 votes +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_BIBL" id="link2H_BIBL"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Bibliography + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Bancroft—“History of California,” vols. I, II, Ill, IV, V, VI, VII. + Bancroft—“California Pastoral.” + Bancroft—“History of North Mexican States.” + Hittell—“History of California,” vols. I, II, III, IV. + Royce—“History of California.” + Blackmar—“Spanish Institutions of the Southwest.” + Montalvo—“Sergas of Esplandian.” Translator, E. E. Hale, Atlantic + Monthly, Vol. XIII, p. 265. + Vancouver—“Voyage of Discovery to the Pacific Ocean,” vol. III. + Geronimo Boscano—“Chinigchinich,” “History of Mission Indians.” + Translator, + Alfred Robinson—“Life in California.” + Francisco Palou—“Life of Fray Junipero Serra.” + Junipero Serra—“Diary.” Translated in magazine Out West, March-July, + 1902. + Hakluyt—“Drake’s Voyages.” + Vanegas—“History of California.” + Davis—“Sixty Years in California.” + Colton—“Three Years in California.” + Fremont—“Memoirs.” + Sherman—“Memoirs.” Century Magazine, vols. 41-42. + Stoddard—“In the Footsteps of the Padres.” + Lummis—“The Right Hand of the Continent.” Series, Out West Magazine, + 1903. + Lummis—” Spanish Pioneers.” + Jackson—“A Century of Dishonor.” + Jackson—“Ramona.” + California Book of Louisiana Purchase Exposition. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Index + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Abalone, 22 + Acapulco, 68 + Admission to the Union, 179-182 + Adobe, 93 + Alameda, 182 + Alaska, 214 + Alba, 110 + Alcalde, 104, 108, 173, 174 + Alfalfa, 244 + Afileria, 209 + Alta, 86 + Alvarado, 125, 133, 134, 136 + American government of California, 173-179 + American River, 150 + Americans in California, 129, 134, 140-146, 149 + Anaheim, settled, 212 + Anian, Strait of, 53, 62 + Apricots, 256 + Area, 289 + Arguello, Captain Lulls, 128, 131, 132 + Arguello family, 145 + Arroyo Seco, 97, 146 + Ascension, Padre, 8, 670 + Atole, 94 + Avalon, 68 + Ayala, Lieutenant, 88 + Bahia, 249 + Bailey, W. F., quoted, 185 + Bananas, 257 + Bancroft, quoted, 206 + Bandini, aids Americans, 145 + Bandini, Dona Arcadia, quoted, 137 + Bandini, Mrs., makes flag, 146 + Barley, 255 + Bautista, 134 + Bear Flag Republic, 142 + Beets, 260 + Belmont Military Academy, 287 + Benitite, 277 + Benton, Senator, 182, 195 + Berkeley, State University at, 283 + Bidwell, quoted, 166 + Bolero, 116 + Bonito, 22 + Borax, 276 + British, visit California, 130 + Broderick, David C., 190, 191 + Buffalo Bill, 186 + Burbank, Luther, 262-266 + Burnett, Peter, 181 + Butte County, oranges in, 247 + Cable, Pacific, 225 + Cabo de Pinos, 55 + Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez, 48-56, 72 + Cacafuegos, 60 + Cactus, 265 + Cahuenga, treaty of, 146, 148 + Calaveras grove, 235 + Calhoun, 179 + California, area of, 289 + California, climate of, 13-18 + California, geography of, 13,14 + California, name, origin of, 11, 12 + California Column, 198 + California Lancers, 193 + Californite, 276 + Camisa, 116 + Canneries, 257, 260, 261 + Cape Mendocino, 67 + Capitol, 204 + Carmelo River, 71, 87 + Carmenon, Sebastin, explorations of, 67 + Carne seco, 101 + Carquinez, Strait of, 14 + Carreta, 116, 118, 213 + Carrillo, in convention, 177 + Castillo, Domingo, map of, 12 + Castro, General, 139, 140, 142 + Cattle raising, 108, 113 + Celery, 256 + Central Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + Chagres, Panama, 163 + Chamisso, Albert von, 182 + Chapman, 125, 126 + Cherries, 262 + China, war with Japan, 223 + Chinese, in California, 202, 203 + Chinese, work on railroad, 198 + Chinigchinich, 25, 33-36, 45, 47 + Chippa, 43-45 + Cholos, 138 + Cigaritos, 109 + Citron, 246, 256 + Civil War, 180, 189-194 + Clay, Henry, 178 + Cleeta, 19-29, 45-47 + Climate, 13-18 + Club wheat, 242 + Cody, Mr., 186 + Coloma, mill near, 150 + Columbia, and Panama Canal, 222 + Colony days, 211-214 + Colton, Rev. Walter, 173, 174 + Colton, quoted, 203 + Comandante, 136 + Comstock mine, 271 + Concepcion de Arguello, 130, 131 + Conquest of California, 139-146 + Constitution of 1849, 178 + Constitution of 1879, 203 + Constitutional Convention of 1849, 177 + Cooper, Ellwood, 262 + Copper mining, 276 + Corn, 244 + Coronel, Don Ignacio, school of, 280 + Cortez, Hernando, 12, 53, 74 + Cotopacnic, 46 + Counties, 290, 291 + Cradle, used in mining, 158 + Crespi, Juan, 75, 100 + Crocker, Charles, 197-199 + Cuatrito, 117 + Cuchuma, 22, 26, 32, 35, 45 + Cushiony scale, 250 + Day, Sherman, 284 + Debris, 268 + Del Valle, Reginaldo, 288 + Dewey, Commodore, in Spanish war, 217 + Dios, 110 + Dolores mission, 88 + Donner party, 167 + Dragontea, 57 + Drake, Sir Francis, 57-66, 12, 73 + Drakes Bay, 63 + Dress of early Californians, 115, 116 + Dried fruits, 260 + Drift mining, 269 + Dulce, 258. + Earthquake (1906), 225-228 + El Camino Real, 95 + El Refugio, 125 + Empire mine, 274 + England, explorations, 59-66 + Escuela, 279 + Explorations, 48-73, 81-83 + Farallones, 81 + Farmer’s Institute, 285 + Ferrelo, 56, 57, 85 + Festivals, 126 + Fiesta, 126 + Figs, 260 + Flores, General, 146 + Flour trade, 243 + Forests, 229-236 + Forty-niners, 156, 172 + Fremont, Captain, 139-143, 146 + Fremont, dispute with Kearny, 148, 149 + Fremont, elected senator, 178 + Fremont, explorations, 139, 107, 195 + Fremont, on land question, 182 + French, visit California, 129 + Frijoles, 98 + Fruit, 246-263 + Fruit, canned, 257, 260 + Fruit, crystallized, 261 + Fruit, dried, 260 + Fruit, preserved, 258 + Fugitive Slave Law, 190 + Galli, Francisco, 66 + Galvez, Jose de, 75-78, 84, 87 + Gems, 276 + Gente de razon, 124 + Gentiles, 80 + Gesnip, 19-33, 38-47 + Gicamas, 70 + Gigantea, 234 + Gillespie, 140, 143, 146 + Gold, discovered, 147, 151, 155 + Gold, early mining, 154-160 + Gold, modern mines, 267-271, 274 + Golden Hind, ship, 66 + Governors, list of, 292 + Graham, 133, 134 + Grain, 238-245 + Grape fruit, 252 + Grapes, 254, 258-260 + Guam, 225 + Gwin, in convention, 177 + Gwin, senator, 178, 189, 190, 281 + Hague, 220, 221 + Harte, Bret, 180, 200 + Harvester, 240 + Hawaii, 218-220, 225 + Hearst, Mrs. Phoebe, 283, 285 + Hecox, Mrs., quoted, 171 + Hittell, quoted, 205 + Hopkins, Mark, 197 + Huntington, Collis P., 197, 198 + Huntington, H. E., 239 + Hydraulic mining, 160, 268, 269 + Ide, 141. + Immigration after 1848, 156, 161-172 + Indian Bar, 184 + Indians, aborigines, 19-47, 54, 63, 64 + Indians, baskets, 43-45 + Indians, boats, 39 + Indians, clothing, 21, 31, 32, 33, 43, 63 + Indians, food, 28, 29, 38, 42, 45-47 + Indians, houses, 26 + Indians, hunting, 23-25, 42, 43 + Indians, myths, 80, 45 + Indians, worship, 33-36 + Indians in Santa Catalina, 70 + Indians, mission, 91-105, 127 + Indians, on ranches, 110-112 + Indians, recent history, 206-208 + Irrigation, 245, 252-255 + Isadora, 138 + Isbell, Mrs. Oliver Mann, 280 + Jacal, 26 + Japan, 223-225 + Jesuits in New Spain, 76 + Jiminez, 53 + Jones, Commodore, 136, 137 + Jones, W. C., 182 + Jordan, President, 287 + Juan, 48, 51, 52, 56 + Judah, Theodore D., 196-198. + Kahhoom, 43-45 + Kearny, General Stephen, 145, 148, 149 + Kern River, electric power from, 278 + Kindergartens, 282 + King, Thomas Starr, 192 + Klamath, 37, 38 + Korea, 223 + Kotzebue, Otto von, 132 + Kunzite, 276 + Ladybird, 250 + La Fiesta, 126 + Laguna rancho, battle of, 146 + Laguna rancho, sheep on, 210 + Land question, 182, 183 + La Perouse, 129 + La Posesion, 55 + La Purisima mission, 89 + Larkin, consul, 136, 137,139, 284 + Leland Stanford Junior University, 285-287 + Lemons, 245, 251 + Lick Observatory, 284 + Lollah, 30 + Lopez, Juan, 147 + Lorne, Marquis of, quoted, 262 + Los Angeles, beginnings of, 107, 108. + Los Angeles, captured by Americans, 143 + Los Angeles, church built by Chapman, 125 + Los Angeles, during Civil War, 194 + Los Angeles, in colony days, 213 + Los Angeles, Kern River power, 278 + Los Angeles, old palms in, 144 + Los Angeles, State Normal School, 283 + Lumber, 229-236 + Lummis. Charles F., author, 249 + Macana, 22, 27, 28, 31, 32, 37, 38, 41, 42, 44, 46 + Machado, Agustin, 122 + McKinley, President, 218, 220 + Maestro, 113 + Mahan, Captain, quoted, 220 + Malaga, 256 + Manchuria, 223 + Mandarin orange, 248 + Manila, cable to, 225 + Manila, trade, 67, 74, 77 + Manila Bay, battle, 217 + Marin County, 226 + Mariposa grove, 234 + Marshall, James, 150-153 + Mason, Colonel, 149, 154 + Mayor domo, 110 + Mendocino, Cape, 67 + Mendoza, 72 + Merced River, 160. 111 + Mexican government of California, 124 + Mexico, dispute over Plus Fund, 221 + Mexico, revolt against Spain, 122, 124 + Mexico, war with the United States, 134-135, 140, 174 + Micheltorena, Governor, 137 + Millay, 48 + Mills College, 287 + Mines, modern, 267-277 + Missions, 76-105 + Missions, aid government, 123 + Missions, irrigation, 252 + Missions, orchards, 257, 258 + Missions, schools at, 279 + Missions, secularized, 103-105, 126 + Missions, wheat raising, 237-239 + Modocs, 208 + Monterey, attacked by pirate, 125 + Monterey, captured by Jones, 186, 137 + Monterey, captured by Sloat, 143 + Monterey, mission founded at, 85 + Monterey, presidio of, 87 + Monterey Bay, discovered, 55, 71 + Monterey Bay, Portola at, 81 + Mountains, 18-16 + Muchachas, 110, 112 + Muchchos, 110 + Murphy, Virginia Reed, quoted, 168 + Muscat grape, 258 + Mussel Slough District, 201 + Nahal, 31 + Nakin, 29, 47 + Native Sons of the Golden West, 205 + Navel orange, 248-250 + Nevada City, 274 + Neve, Felipe de, 107 + New Albion, 64 + New Almaden, quicksilver mines, 276 + Nihie, 35, 36 + No-fence law, 211 + Nopal, 29, 32-36, 40, 41, 43 + Normal schools, 283 + Nuts, 257, 261, 262 + Oats, 255 + Ojai, 287 + Olives, 246, 255, 261 + Ollas, 22, 26, 85 + Oranges, 246-254 + Oregon, voyage of the, 216, 217 + Oregon Country, 135 + Ortega, discovers San Francisco bay, 82, 83 + Ortega, rancho attacked, 125 + Otter hunting, 132, 183 + Outdoor life, 17, 18 + Outlaws, 214 + Pacheco, Governor, 205 + Pacific cable, 225 + Pacific Ocean, importance of, 18, 217 + Padres, 51, See Missions + Pala, chapel, 89 + Palou, Francisco, 75, 79, 88, 100 + Panama Canal, 221 + Panocha, 120 + Papas pequenos, 70 + Pasadena, settled, 212 + Pastorel, 97 + Patio, 94 + Patron, 111 + Patrona, 110, 112 + Payuchi, 25-47 + Pepe, 49, 50 + Pesos, 60 + Petroleum, 276 + Peyri, 95, 96 + Philippine trade, 58, 71-78, 201 + Philippines, 217, 218 + Pico, General Andres, 145, 146, 148 + Pinos, Point, 55, 71, 80, 81 + Pius Fund, 76, 220 + Placer mines, 347, 158, 268 + Plaza, 107 + Pocket, in placer mining, 180 + Pomato, 265 + Pomelo, 252 + Pony express, 185-188 + Port Costa, wheat grader at, 243 + Portola, Captain, 77-80, 88-85 + Prairie schooner, 170 + Preserved fruit, 258 + Presidios, 85, 108 + Prunes, 262, 266 + Pueblos, 106-108 + Pumpkin, preserved, 258 + Quartz mining, 270 + Quicksilver, 276 + Railroad, 196-201, 205, 206 + Rainfall, 14, 16 + Raisins, 250, 258-260 + Ramirez, 177 + Ranch life, 109-127 + Rancheros, 121, 122, 183 + Ranches, modern, 262 + Ranchos, 109 + Rebosa, 118 + Reyes, Point, 67, 81-88 + Rezanof, Count, 130, 181 + Rhubarb, 205 + Riley, Governor, 176 + Riverside, founded, 212 + Riverside, oranges at, 247, 249, 250 + Robinson, Alfred, quoted, 257 + Rodeo, 113, 114 + Roosevelt, 222, 224, 225 + Ross, Fort, 131, 133 + Routes to California, 101-172 + Rurik, ship, 182 + Russia, sells Alaska, 215 + Russia, war with Japan, 224 + Russians in California, 131-133 + Sacramento, founded, 133 + Sacramento, pony express at, 186 + Sacramento, railroad begun, 198 + Sacramento valley, 239, 269 + St. John de Anton, 61 + St. Michael orange, 248 + Sal, Point, 130 + Salinas River, 189 + San Agustin, 67 + San Antonio mission, 87 + San Antonio, ship, 79, 83-85 + San Benito County, benitite in, 277 + San Bernardino County, gems in, 276 + San Bruno, 182 + San Buenaventura mission, 89, 99 + San Buenaventura mission, fruit trees, 246, 257 + San Carlos, ship, 79, 88, 287 + San Carlos de Borromeo mission, 85, 86, 100, 120 + San Diego, captured by Americans, 143-146 + San Diego Bay, discovered, 50, 68 + San Diego mission, 80, 92 + San Diego mission, fruit trees, 248 + San Diego mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Diego mission, wheat, 287 + San Diego presidio, 108 + San Diego, ship, 68 + San Fernando mines, 148 + San Fernando mission, 89,90 + San Fernando mission, brandy, 257 + San Fernando mission, fruit trees, 246 + San Francisco, city named, 153 + San Francisco, disorder in (Vigilantes), 184 + San Francisco, during Civil War, 192, 198 + San Francisco, earthquake and fire, 226-228 + San Francisco, gold excitement, 158, 154 + San Francisco, growth after 1848, 156 + San Francisco, in war of 1898, 218 + San Francisco, kindergartens, 282 + San Francisco, pony express at, 186 + San Francisco, Sutro baths, etc., 273, 274 + San Francisco Bay, discovered, 88, 87, 88 + San Francisco mission, 87, 88 + San Francisco presidio, 108 + San Gabriel mission, 87,90 + San Gabriel mission, Chapman at, 125, 120 + San Gabriel mission, mill at, 239 + San Gabriel mission, orchards, 246, 257 + San Gabriel mission, wheat, 237 + San Gabriel River, battle of, 146 + San Joaquin Valley, 239, 247, 269 + San Jose, beginnings of, 107 + San Jose, early school at, 280 + San Jose, earthquake, 226 + San Jose mission, 89, 121 + San Jose mission, Indian revolt, 102 + San Jose, ship, 83 + San Juan Bautista mission, 89 + San Juan Capistrano mission, 89, 98 + San Juan Capistrano mission, attacked by pirate, 125 + San Luis Obispo mission, 87 + San Luis Obispo Polytechnic School, 282 + San Luis Rey mission, 89, 95 + San Mateo, 182 + San Miguel, Cabrillo at, 50, 55-57 + San Miguel mission, 89, 123 + San Pasqual, battle, 145, 146 + San Pedro, Bay-of, discovered, 54, 71 + San Rafael mission, 89 + San Salvador, 53 + San Tomas, ship, 68, 71, 72 + Sanchez, Padre, 246 + Sanitary Commission, 192 + Santa Barbara mission, 89 + Santa Barbara mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Barbara presidio, 108 + Santa Catalina, 22 + Santa Catalina, discovered, 53, 68 + Santa Clara College, 288 + Santa Clara mission, 89 + Santa Clara mission, Indian revolt, 102 + Santa Clara mission, orchards, 257 + Santa Clara mission, school at, 280 + Santa Cruz, town founded, 107 + Santa Cruz mission, 80 + Santa Fe, 78 + Santa Inez mission, 89 + Santa Inez mission, fruit trees, 246 + Santa Rosa, 226, 264, 266 + Saunders, and navel oranges, 249 + Scale, orange, 250, 251 + School taxes, 282 + Schools, early, 113, 279-281 + Schools, modern, 281-288 + Sempervirens, 230, 234 + Senor, 56, 133 + Senora, 213 + Senorita, 213 + Sequoias, 230-235 + Sequoya League, 208 + Serra, Junipero, 75-80, 83-88, 102 + Serra, Junipero, death of, 100 + Serra, Junipero, work of, 91, 92 + Seward, 179, 214, 215 + Shasta, oranges in, 247 + Shasta, Mount, 275 + Sheep Industry, 209-211 + Sherman, Wm. T., 149, 151, 164 + “Shirley,” quoted, 184 + Sholoc, 22-82, 85, 36, 89, 46, 47 + Shumeh, 31 + Sierra Nevada, 14, 16, 56, 100, 282 + Slavery struggle, 175-179, 190 + Sloat, Commodore, 142, 148 + Soil, 16, 18 + Solano mission, 89 + Soledad mission, 89 + Sombrero, 111 + Sonoma, captured, 141 + South Sea, 58 + Southern Pacific Railroad, 201,290 + Spain, colonies, 75, 77 + Spain, colonies, explorations, 48-57, 66-73, 81-83 + Spain, colonies, revolt against, 122, 124 + Spain, colonies, trade laws, 119-122 + Spanish government of California, 77, 122 + Spanish-American War, 215-219 + Stampede of 1849, 161 + Stanford, Leland, gifts for education, 283, 286 + Stanford, Leland, governor, 193 + Stanford, Leland, railroad work, 197-200 + Stanford, Mrs. Leland, 283, 286 + Stanford, Thomas Weldon, 287 + Stanford University, 285-287 + Steamboat, first in California, 155 + Stearns, Don Abel, 137, 147, 148 + Stock raising, 108, 113 + Stockton, Commodore, 143, 146, 148 + Stockton, grain center, 242 + Sugar, 260 + Sultana grape, 239 + Sutro, Adolph, 271-274 + Sutro baths, 273, 274 + Sutter, Captain John, 133, 150-152 + Sutter’s Fort, 133 + Sutter’s mill, 150, 153 + Tamales, 209 + Tangerine orange, 248 + Telegraph, 195 + Texas, 134, 135 + Thatcher School, 287 + Throop Polytechnic School, 287 + Tibbetta, Mrs., and navel oranges, 249 + Titas, 45 + Tomales, 226 + Tortilla, 93,111, 244 + Trade, early, 119-122 + Tres Re yes, ship, 68, 82, 83 + Trist, 175 + Tsuwish, 43, 45 + Tuscon, 206 + Tulare County, products, 247, 276 + Tules, 30, 31, 35, 39, 40 + Tuolumne grove, 284 + Union Pacific Railroad, 197-201 + United States, conquers California, 134-146 + University of California, 283-285 + Valencia late orange, 248 + Vallejo, General, 125 + Vallejo, General, captured, 141 + Vallejo, General, in convention, 177 + Vallejo, General, loses land, 183 + Vallejo, General, quoted, 118, 148 + Vallejo, Senorita Guadalupe, quoted 118, 121, 183, 257 + Vancouver, Captain, 130 + Vancouver, Captain, quoted, 257 + Vanquech, 35 + Vaquero, 111 + Vasques, 214 + Vegetables, 256, 257, 261 + Ventura, Cabrillo at, 54 + Vera Cruz, 74, 75 + Vigilantes, 184, 185 + Vizcaino, Don Sebastian, explorations of, 68-73 + Wash-day expedition, 118 + Webster, Daniel, 176, 179 + Westminster, settled, 212 + Wheat, 237-245, 255 + Wheeler, Benjamin Ide, 284 + White, Stephen M., 288 + Whitman, Walt, quoted, 219 + Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 282 + Willey, Rev. Samuel, 284 + Wolfskill grove, 246 + Yerba Buena, 152 + Yosemite, 238 + Zanja, 94 +</pre> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s History of California, by Helen Elliott Bandini + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA *** + +***** This file should be named 7778-h.htm or 7778-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/7/7/7/7778/ + + +Text file produced by David A. Schwan + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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