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diff --git a/7777-8.txt b/7777-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b077a0 --- /dev/null +++ b/7777-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,15413 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Voyages Round the World, +Performed by Captain James Cook: with an Account of His Life During the Previous and Intervening Periods, by Andrew Kippis + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Narrative of the Voyages Round the World, Performed by Captain James Cook: with an Account of His Life During the Previous and Intervening Periods + +Author: Andrew Kippis + +Posting Date: January 10, 2011 [EBook #7777] +Release Date: March, 2005 +First Posted: May 16, 2003 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES PERFORMED BY JAMES COOK *** + + + + +Produced by Stan Goodman, Cam Venezuela and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team + + + + + + + + + + +NARRATIVE +OF THE +VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD, +PERFORMED BY +CAPTAIN JAMES COOK. + +WITH AN +ACCOUNT OF HIS LIFE +DURING THE PREVIOUS AND INTERVENING PERIODS. + +BY + +A. KIPPIS, D.D., F.R.S., & S.A. + + + + +TO THE KING. + + +SIR, + +I esteem myself highly honoured in being permitted to dedicate and +present my Narrative of the Life and Actions of Captain James Cook to +your Majesty. It was owing to your Majesty's royal patronage and +bounty, that this illustrious navigator was enabled to execute those +vast undertakings, and to make those extraordinary discoveries, which +have contributed so much to the reputation of the British empire, and +have reflected such peculiar glory on your Majesty's reign. Without +your Majesty's munificence and encouragement, the world would have +remained destitute of that immense light which has been thrown on +geography, navigation, and the most important sciences. To your +Majesty, therefore, a work like the present is with particular +propriety addressed. + +It is impossible, on this occasion, to avoid extending my thoughts to +the other noble instances in which your Majesty's liberal protection +of science and literature has been displayed. Your Majesty began your +reign in a career so glorious to princes: and wonderful has been the +increase of knowledge and taste in this country. The improvements in +philosophical science, and particularly in astronomy; the exertions of +experimental and chemical inquiry, the advancement of natural history, +the progress and perfection of the polite arts, and the valuable +compositions that have been produced in every department of learning, +have corresponded with your Majesty's gracious wishes and +encouragement, and have rendered the name of Britain famous in every +quarter of the globe. If there be any persons who, in these respects, +would depreciate the present times, in comparison with those which +have preceded them, it may safely be asserted, that such persons have +not duly attended to the history of literature. The course of my +studies has enabled me to speak with some confidence on the subject; +and to say, that your majesty's reign is eminently distinguished by +one of the greatest glories that can belong to a monarch. + +Knowledge and virtue constitute the chief happiness of a nation: and +it is devoutly to be wished that the virtue of this country were equal +to its knowledge. If it be not so, this does not arise from the want +of an illustrious example in the person of your Majesty, and that of +your royal Consort. The pattern which is set by the King and Queen of +Great Britain, of those qualities which are the truest ornaments and +felicities of life, affords a strong incitement to the imitation of +the same excellencies; and cannot fail of contributing to the more +extensive prevalence of that moral conduct on which the welfare of +society so greatly depends. + +That your Majesty may possess every felicity in your royal Person and +Family, and enjoy a long and prosperous reign, over an enlightened, a +free, and a happy people, is the sincere and ardent prayer of, + +SIR, +Your Majesty's most faithful, +and most obedient, +subject and servant, + +ANDREW KIPPIS. +London, _June_ 31, 1788. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Although I have often appeared before the public as a writer, I never +did it with so much diffidence and anxiety as on the present occasion. +This arises from the peculiar nature of the work in which I have now +engaged. A Narrative of the Life and Actions of Captain Cook must +principally consist of the voyages and discoveries he made, and the +difficulties and dangers to which he was exposed. The private +incidents concerning him, though collected with the utmost diligence, +can never compare, either in number or importance, with his public +transactions. His public transactions are the things that mark the +man, that display his mind and his character; and, therefore they are +the grand objects to which the attention of his biographer must be +directed. However, the right conduct of this business is a point of no +small difficulty and embarrassment. The question will frequently +arise, How far the detail should be extended? There is a danger, on +the one hand, of being carried to an undue length, and of enlarging, +more than is needful, on facts which may be thought already +sufficiently known; and, on the other hand, of giving such a jejune +account, and such a slight enumeration of important events, as shall +disappoint the wishes and expectations of the reader. Of the two +extremes, the last seems to be that which should most be avoided; for, +unless what Captain Cook performed, and what he encountered, be +related somewhat at large, his Life and Actions would be imperfectly +represented to the world. The proper medium appears to be, to bring +forward the things in which he was personally concerned, and to pass +slightly over other matters. Even here it is scarcely possible, nor +would it be desirable, to avoid the introduction of some of the most +striking circumstances which relate to the new countries and +inhabitants that were visited by our great navigator, since these +constitute a part of the knowledge and benefit derived from his +undertakings. Whether I have been so happy as to preserve the due +medium, I presume not to determine. I have been anxious to do it, +without always being able fully to satisfy my own mind that I have +succeeded; on which account I shall not be surprised if different +opinions should be formed on the subject. In that case, all that I can +offer in my own defence will be, that I have acted to the best of my +judgment. At any rate I flatter myself with the hope of having +presented to the public a work not wholly uninteresting or +unentertaining. Those who are best acquainted with Captain Cook's +expeditions, may be pleased with reviewing them in a more compendious +form, and with having his actions placed in a closer point of view, in +consequence of their being divested of the minute nautical, and other +details, which were essentially necessary in the voyages at large. As +to those persons, if there be any, who have hitherto obtained but an +imperfect knowledge of what was done and discovered by this +illustrious man, they will not be offended with the length of the +following narrative. + +In various respects, new information will be found in the present +performance; and other things, which were less perfectly known before, +are set in a clearer and fuller light. This, I trust, will appear in +the first, third, fifth, and seventh chapters. It may be observed, +likewise, that the fresh matter now communicated is of the most +authentic kind, and derived from the most respectable sources. My +obligations of this nature are, indeed, very great, and call for my +warmest gratitude. The dates and facts relative to Captain Cook's +different promotions are taken from the books of the Admiralty, by the +directions of the noble lord who is at the head of that Board, and the +favour of Mr. Stephens. I embrace with pleasure this opportunity of +mentioning, that, in the course of my life, I have experienced, in +several instances, Lord Howe's condescending and favourable attention. +To Mr. Stephens I am indebted for other communications besides those +which concern the times of Captain Cook's preferments, and for his +general readiness in forwarding the design of the present work. The +Earl of Sandwich, the great patron of our navigator, and the principal +mover in his mighty undertakings, has honoured me with some important +information concerning him, especially with regard to the +circumstances which preceded his last voyage. To Sir Hugh Palliser's +zeal for the memory of his friend I stand particularly obliged. From a +large communication, with which he was so good as to favour me, I have +derived very material intelligence, as will appear in the course of +the narrative, and especially in the first chapter. In the same +chapter are some facts which I received from Admiral Graves, through +the hands of the Rev. Dr. Douglas, now Bishop of Carlisle (whose +admirable Introduction to the Voyage to the Pacific Ocean must be of +the most essential service to every writer of the Life of Captain +Cook). The Captain's amiable and worthy Widow, who is held in just +esteem by all his friends, has given me an account of several domestic +circumstances. I should be deficient in gratitude, were I here to omit +the name of Mr. Samwell: for though what is inserted from him in this +work has already been laid before the public, it should be remembered, +that through the interposition of our common friend, the Rev. Mr. +Gregory, it was originally written for my use, and freely consigned to +my disposal; and that it was at my particular instance and request +that it was separately printed. My obligations to other gentlemen will +be mentioned in their proper places. + +But my acknowledgments are, above all, due to Sir Joseph Banks, +President of the Royal Society, for the interest he has taken in the +present publication. It was in consequence of his advice, that it was +given to the world in the form which it now bears; and his assistance +has been invariable through every part of the undertaking. To him the +inspection of the whole has been submitted and to him it is owing, +that the work is, in many respects, far more complete than it would +otherwise have been. The exertions of zeal and friendship, I have been +so happy as to experience from him in writing the account of Captain +Cook, have corresponded with that ardour which Sir Joseph Banks is +always ready to display in promoting whatever he judges to be +subservient to the cause of science and literature. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAP. I. Account of Captain Cook previous to his first Voyage round +the World + +CHAP. II. Narrative of Captain Cook's first Voyage round the World in +the years 1768, 1769, 1770, and 1771 + +CHAP. III. Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his first +and second Voyage + +CHAP. IV. Narrative of Captain Cook's second Voyage round the World in +the years 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775 + +CHAP. V. Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his second +and third Voyage + +CHAP. VI. Narrative of Captain Cook's third Voyage in the years 1776, +1777, 1778, and 1779, to the Period of his Death + +CHAP. VII. Character of Captain Cook.--Effects of his +Voyages.--Testimonies of Applause.--Commemorations of his +Services.--Regard paid to his Family.--Conclusion + +APPENDIX + + + + +COOK'S VOYAGES. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Account of Captain Cook, previous to his first Voyage round the World. + + +Captain James Cook had no claim to distinction on account of the +lustre of his birth, or the dignity of his ancestors. His father, +James Cook, who from his dialect is supposed to have been a +Northumbrian, was in the humble station of a servant in husbandry, and +married a woman of the same rank with himself, whose Christian name +was Grace. Both of them were noted in their neighbourhood for their +honesty, sobriety, and diligence. They first lived at a village called +Morton, and then removed to Marton, another village in the +North-riding of Yorkshire, situated in the high road from Gisborough, +in Cleveland, to Stockton upon Tees, in the county of Durham, at the +distance of six miles from each of these towns. At Morton, Captain +Cook was born, on the 27th of October, 1728;[1] and, agreeably to the +custom of the vicar of the parish, whose practice it was to baptize +infants soon after their birth, he was baptized on the 3rd of November +following. He was one of nine children, all of whom are now dead, +excepting a daughter, who married a fisherman at Redcar. The first +rudiments of young Cook's education were received by him at Marton, +where he was taught to read by dame Walker, the schoolmistress of the +village. When he was eight years of age, his father, in consequence of +the character he had obtained for industry, frugality, and skill in +husbandry, had a little promotion bestowed upon him, which was that of +being appointed head-servant, or hind,[2] to a farm belonging to the +late Thomas Skottow, Esq. called Airy Holme, near Great Ayton. To this +place, therefore, he removed with his family;[3] and his son James, at +Mr. Skottow's expense, was put to a day-school in Ayton, where he was +instructed in writing, and in a few of the first rules of arithmetic. + + [Footnote 1: The mud house in which Captain Cook drew his first + breath is pulled down, and no vestiges of it are now remaining.] + + [Footnote 2: This is the name which, in that part of the country, + is given to the head-servant, or bailiff, of a farm.] + + [Footnote 3: Mr. Cook, senior, spent the close of his life with + his daughter, at Redcar, and is supposed to have been about + eighty-five years of age when he died.] + +Before he was thirteen years of age, he was bound an apprentice to Mr. +William Sanderson, a haberdasher, or shopkeeper, at Straiths, a +considerable fishing town, about ten miles north of Whitby. This +employment, however, was very unsuitable to young Cook's disposition. +The sea was the object of his inclination; and his passion for it +could not avoid being strengthened by the situation of the town in +which he was placed, and the manner of life of the persons with whom +he must frequently converse. Some disagreement having happened between +him and his master, he obtained his discharge, and soon after bound +himself for seven years to Messrs. John and Henry Walker, of Whitby, +Quakers by religious profession, and principal owners of the ship +Freelove, and of another vessel, both of which were constantly +employed in the coal trade. The greatest part of his apprenticeship +was spent on board the Freelove. After he was out of his time, he +continued to serve in the coal and other branches of trade (though +chiefly in the former) in the capacity of a common sailor; till, at +length, he was raised to be mate of one of Mr. John Walker's ships. +During this period it is not recollected that he exhibited anything +very peculiar, either in his abilities or his conduct; though there +can be no doubt but that he had gained a considerable degree of +knowledge in the practical part of navigation, and that his attentive +and sagacious mind was laying up a store of observations, which would +be useful to him in future life. + +In the spring of the year 1755, when hostilities broke out between +England and France, and there was a hot press for seamen, Mr. Cook +happened to be in the river Thames with the ship to which he belonged. +At first he concealed himself, to avoid being pressed; but reflecting, +that it might be difficult, notwithstanding all his vigilance, to +elude discovery or escape pursuit, he determined, upon farther +consideration, to enter voluntarily into his majesty's service, and to +take his future fortune in the royal navy. Perhaps he had some presage +in his own mind, that by his activity and exertions he might rise +considerably above his present situation. Accordingly, he went to a +rendezvous at Wapping, and entered with an officer of the Eagle man of +war, a ship of sixty guns, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer. To +this ship Captain (afterward Sir Hugh) Palliser was appointed, in the +month of October, 1755; and when he took the command, found in her +James Cook, whom he soon distinguished to be an able, active, and +diligent seaman. All the officers spoke highly in his favour, and the +Captain was so well pleased with his behaviour, that he gave him every +encouragement which lay in his power. + +In the course of some time, Captain Palliser received a letter from +Mr. Osbaldeston, then member of Parliament for Scarborough, +acquainting him that several neighbours of his had solicited him to +write in favour of one Cook, on board the captain's ship. They had +heard that Captain Palliser had taken notice of him, and they +requested, if he thought Cook deserving of it, that he would point out +in what manner Mr. Osbaldeston might best contribute his assistance +towards forwarding the young man's promotion. The captain, in his +reply, did justice to Cook's merit; but, as he had been only a short +time in the navy, informed Mr. Osbaldeston that he could not be +promoted as a commission officer. A master's warrant, Captain Palliser +added, might perhaps be procured for Mr. Cook, by which he would be +raised to a station that he was well qualified to discharge with +ability and credit. + +Such a warrant he obtained on the 10th of May, 1759, for the Grampus +sloop; but the proper master having unexpectedly returned to her, the +appointment did not take place. Four days after he was made master of +the Garland; when, upon inquiry, it was found, that he could not join +her, as the ship had already sailed. On the next day, the 15th of May, +he was appointed to the Mercury. These quick and successive +appointments shew that his interest was strong, and that the intention +to serve him was real and effectual. + +The destination of the Mercury was to North America, where she joined +the fleet under the command of Sir Charles Saunders, which, in +conjunction with the land forces under General Wolfe, was engaged in +the famous siege of Quebec. During that siege, a difficult and +dangerous service was necessary to be performed. This was to take the +soundings in the channel of the river St. Lawrence, between the island +of Orleans and the north shore, directly in the front of the French +fortified camp at Montmorency and Beauport, in order to enable the +admiral to place ships against the enemy's batteries, and to cover our +army on a general attack, which the heroic Wolfe intended to make on +the camp. Captain Palliser, in consequence of his acquaintance with +Mr. Cook's sagacity and resolution, recommended him to the service; +and he performed it in the most complete manner. In this business he +was employed during the night-time, for several nights together. At +length he was discovered by the enemy, who collected a great number of +Indians and canoes, in a wood near the waterside, which were launched +in the night, for the purpose of surrounding him, and cutting him off. +On this occasion, he had a very narrow escape. He was obliged to run +for it, and pushed on shore on the island of Orleans, near the guard +of the English hospital. Some of the Indians entered at the stern of +the boat, as Mr. Cook leaped out at the bow; and the boat, which was a +barge belonging to one of the ships of war, was carried away in +triumph. However, he furnished the admiral with as correct and +complete a draught of the channel and soundings as could have been +made after our countrymen were in possession of Quebec. Sir Hugh +Palliser had good reason to believe, that before this time Mr. Cook +had scarcely ever used a pencil, and that he knew nothing of drawing. +But such was his capacity, that he speedily made himself master of +every object to which he applied his attention. + +Another important service was performed by Mr. Cook while the fleet +continued in the river of St. Lawrence. The navigation of that river +is exceedingly difficult and hazardous. It was particularly so to the +English, who were then in a great measure strangers to this part of +North America, and who had no chart, on the correctness of which they +could depend. It was therefore ordered by the admiral, that Mr. Cook +should be employed to survey those parts of the river, below Quebec, +which navigators had experienced to be attended with peculiar +difficulty and danger; and he executed the business with the same +diligence and skill of which he had already afforded so happy a +specimen. When he had finished the undertaking, his chart of the river +St. Lawrence was published, with soundings, and directions for sailing +in that river. Of the accuracy and utility of this chart, it is +sufficient to say, that it hath never since been found necessary to +publish any other. One, which has appeared in France, is only a copy +of our author's, on a reduced scale. + +After the expedition at Quebec, Mr. Cook, by warrant from Lord +Colvill, was appointed, on the 22d of September, 1759, master of the +Northumberland man of war, the ship in which his lordship staid, in +the following winter, as commodore, with the command of a squadron at +Halifax. In this station, Mr. Cook's behaviour did not fail to gain +him the esteem and friendship of his commander. During the leisure, +which the season of winter afforded him, he employed his time in the +acquisition of such knowledge as eminently qualified him for future +service. It was at Halifax that he first read Euclid, and applied +himself to the study of astronomy and other branches of science. The +books of which he had the assistance were few in number: but his +industry enabled him to supply many defects, and to make a progress +far superior to what could be expected from the advantages he enjoyed. + +While Mr. Cook was master of the Northumberland under Lord Colvill, +that ship came to Newfoundland in September, 1762, to assist in the +recapture of the island from the French, by the forces under the +command of Lieutenant-colonel Amherst. When the island was recovered, +the English fleet staid some days at Placentia, in order to put it in +a more complete state of defence. During this time Mr. Cook manifested +a diligence in surveying the harbour and heights of the place, which +arrested the notice of Captain (now Admiral) Graves, commander of the +Antelope, and governor of Newfoundland. The governor was hence induced +to ask Cook a variety of questions, from the answers to which he was +led to entertain a very favourable opinion of his abilities. This +opinion was increased, the more he saw of Mr. Cook's conduct; who, +wherever they went, continued to display the most unremitting +attention to every object that related to the knowledge of the coast, +and was calculated to facilitate the practice of navigation. The +esteem which Captain Graves had conceived for him was confirmed by the +testimonies to his character, that were given by all the officers +under whom he served. + +In the latter end of 1762, Mr. Cook returned to England; and, on the +21st of December, in the same year married, at Barking in Essex, Miss +Elizabeth Batts, an amiable and deserving woman, who was justly +entitled to and enjoyed his tenderest regard and affection. But his +station in life, and the high duties to which he was called, did not +permit him to partake of matrimonial felicity, without many and very +long interruptions. + +Early in the year 1763, after the peace with France and Spain was +concluded, it was determined that Captain Graves should go out again, +as governor of Newfoundland As the country was very valuable in a +commercial view, and had been an object of great contention between +the English and the French, the captain obtained an establishment for +the survey of its coasts; which, however, he procured with some +difficulty, because the matter was not sufficiently understood by +government at home. In considering the execution of the plan, Mr. Cook +appeared to Captain Graves to be a proper person for the purpose; and +proposals were made to him, to which, notwithstanding his recent +marriage, he readily and prudently acceded. Accordingly, he went out +with the Captain as surveyor; and was first employed to survey +Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded by the treaty to the +French, who, by order of administration, were to take possession of +them at a certain period, even though the English commander should not +happen to be arrived in the country. When Captain Graves had reached +that part of the world, he found there the governor who had been sent +from France (Mons. D'Anjac), with all the settlers and his own family, +on board a frigate and some transports. It was contrived, however, to +keep them in that disagreeable situation for a whole month, which was +the time taken by Mr. Cook to complete his survey. When the business +was finished, the French were put into possession of the two islands, +and left in the quiet enjoyment of them, with every profession of +civility. + +At the end of the season, Mr. Cook returned to England, but did not +long continue at home. In the beginning of the year 1764, his old and +constant friend and patron, Sir Hugh Palliser, was appointed governor +and commodore of Newfoundland and Labradore; upon which occasion he +was glad to take Mr. Cook with him, in the same capacity that he had +sustained under Captain Graves. Indeed, no man could have been found +who was better qualified for finishing the design which had been begun +in the preceding year. The charts of the coasts, in that part of North +America were very erroneous; and it was highly necessary to the trade +and navigation of his majesty's subjects, that new ones should be +formed, which would be more correct and useful. Accordingly, under the +orders of Commodore Palliser, Mr. Cook was appointed on the 18th of +April, 1764, marine surveyor of Newfoundland and Labradore; and he had +a vessel, the Grenville schooner, to attend him for that purpose. How +well he executed his commission is known to every man acquainted with +navigation. The charts which he afterward published of the different +surveys he had made, reflected great credit on his abilities and +character, and the utility of them is universally acknowledged. It is +understood, that, so far as Newfoundland is concerned they were of +considerable service to the king's ministers, in settling the terms of +the last peace. Mr. Cook explored the inland parts of this island in a +much completer manner than had ever been done before. By penetrating +further into the middle of the country than any man had hitherto +attempted, he discovered several large lakes, which are indicated upon +the general chart. In these services Mr. Cook appears to have been +employed, with the intervals of occasionally returning to England for +the winter season, till the year 1767, which was the last time that he +went out upon his station of marine surveyor of Newfoundland. It must +not be omitted, that, while he occupied this post, he had an +opportunity of exhibiting to the Royal Society a proof of his progress +in the study of astronomy. A short paper was written by him, and +inserted in the fifty-seventh volume of the Philosophical +Transactions, entitled, 'An Observation of an Eclipse of the Sun at +the Island of Newfoundland, August 5, 1766, with the Longitude of the +place of Observation deduced from it.' The observation was made at one +of the Burgeo islands, near Cape Ray, in latitude 47° 36' 19", on the +south-west extremity of Newfoundland. Mr. Cook's paper having been +communicated by Dr. Bevis to Mr. Witchell, the latter gentleman +compared it with an observation at Oxford, by the Rev. Mr. Hornsby, on +the same eclipse, and thence computed the difference of longitude +respecting the places of observation, making due allowance for the +effect of parallax, and the prolate spheroidal figure of the earth. It +appears from the Transactions that our navigator had already obtained +the character of being an able mathematician. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Narrative of Captain Cook's first voyage round the world. + + +There is scarcely any thing from which the natural curiosity of man +receives a higher gratification, than from the accounts of distant +countries and nations. Nor is it curiosity only that is gratified by +such accounts; for the sphere of human knowledge is hereby enlarged, +and various objects are brought into view, an acquaintance with which +greatly contributes to the improvement of life and the benefit of the +world. With regard to information of this kind, the moderns have +eminently the advantage over the ancients. The ancients could neither +pursue their enquiries with the same accuracy, nor carry them on to +the same extent. Travelling by land was much more inconvenient and +dangerous than it hath been in later times; and, as navigation was +principally confined to coasting, it must necessarily have been +circumscribed within very narrow limits. + +The invention of the compass, seconded by the ardent and enterprising +spirit of several able men, was followed by wonderful discoveries. +Vasco di Gama doubled the Cape of Good Hope; and a new way being thus +found out to the East Indies, the countries to that part of the earth +became more accurately and extensively known. Another world was +discovered by Columbus; and, at length, Magalhaens accomplished the +arduous and hitherto unattempted task of sailing round the globe. At +different periods he was succeeded by other circumnavigators, of whom +it is no part of the present narrative to give an account. + +The spirit of discovery, which was so vigorous during the latter end +of the fifteenth and through the whole of the sixteenth century, +began, soon after the commencement of the seventeenth century, to +decline. Great navigations were only occasionally undertaken, and more +from the immediate views of avarice or war, than from any noble and +generous principles. But of late years they have been revived, with +the enlarged and benevolent design of promoting the happiness of the +human species. + +A beginning of this kind was made in the reign of George the Second, +during which two voyages were performed; the first under the command +of Captain Middleton, and the next under the direction of Captains +Smith and More, in order to discover a northwest passage through +Hudson's Bay. It was reserved, however, for the glory of the present +reign to carry the spirit of discovery to its height, and to conduct +it on the noblest principles; not for the purposes of covetuousness or +ambition; not to plunder or destroy the inhabitants of newly-explored +countries; but to improve their condition, to instruct them in the +arts of life, and to extend the boundaries of science. + +No sooner was peace restored, in 1763, than these laudable designs +engaged his majesty's patronage; and two voyages round the world had +been undertaken before Mr. Cook set out on his first command. The +conductors of these voyages were the Captains Byron, Wallis, and +Carteret,[4] by whom several discoveries were made, which contributed, +in no small degree, to increase the knowledge of geography and +navigation. Nevertheless, as the purpose for which they were sent out +appears to have had a principal reference to a particular object in +the South Atlantic, the direct track they were obliged to hold, on +their way homeward by the East Indies, prevented them from doing so +much as might otherwise have been expected towards giving the world a +complete view of that immense expanse of ocean, which the South +Pacific comprehends. + + [Footnote 4: The Captains Wallis and Carteret went out together + upon the same expedition; but the vessels they commanded having + accidentally parted company, they proceeded and returned by a + different route. Hence their voyages are distinctly related by Dr. + Hawkesworth.] + +Before Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret had returned to Great +Britain, another voyage was resolved upon, for which the improvement +of astronomical science afforded the immediate occasion. It having +been calculated by astronomers, that a transit of Venus over the Sun's +disk would happen in 1769, it was judged that the best place for +observing it would be in some part of the South Sea, either at the +Marquesas, or at one of those islands which Tasman had called +Amsterdam; Rotterdam, and Middleburg, and which are now better known +under the appellation of the Friendly Islands. This being a matter of +eminent consequence in astronomy, and which excited the attention of +foreign nations as well as of our own, the affair was taken up by the +Royal Society, with the zeal which has always been displayed by that +learned body for the advancement of every branch of philosophical +science. Accordingly, a long memorial was addressed to his majesty, +dated February the 15th, 1768, representing the great importance of +the object, together with the regard which had been paid to it by the +principal courts of Europe; and entreating, among other things that a +vessel might be ordered, at the expense of government, for the +conveyance of suitable persons, to make the observation of the transit +of Venus, at one of the places before mentioned. This memorial having +been laid before the king by the Earl of Shelburne (now the Marquess +of Lansdown), one of the principal secretaries of state; his majesty +graciously signified his pleasure to the lords commissioners of the +Admiralty, that they should provide a ship for carrying over such +observers as the Royal Society should judge proper to send to the +South Seas; and, on the 3rd of April, Mr. Stephens informed the +society that a bark had been taken up for tire purpose. + +The gentlemen who had originally been fixed upon to take the direction +of the expedition, was Alexander Dalrymple, Esq. an eminent member of +the Royal Society, and who, besides possessing an accurate knowledge +of astronomy, had distinguished himself by his inquiries into the +geography of the Southern Oceans, and by the collection he had +published of several voyages to those parts of the world. Mr. +Dalrymple being sensible of the difficulty, or rather of the +impossibility, of carrying a ship through unknown seas, the crew of +which were not subject to the military discipline of his majesty's +navy, he made it the condition of his going, that he should have a +brevet commission, as captain of the vessel, in the same manner as +such a commission had been granted to Dr. Halley, in his voyage of +discovery. To this demand Sir Edward Hawke, who was then at the head +of the Admiralty, and who possessed more of the spirit of his +profession than either of education or science, absolutely refused to +accede. He said, at the board, that his conscience would not allow him +to trust any ship of his majesty's to a person who had not regularly +been bred a seaman. On being further pressed upon the subject, Sir +Edward declared, that he would suffer his right hand to be cut off +before he would sign any such commission. In this he was, in some +degree, justified by the mutinous behaviour of Halley's crew, who +refused to acknowledge the legal authority of their commander, and +involved him in a dispute which was attended with pernicious +consequences. Mr. Dalrymple, on the other hand, was equally steady in +requiring a compliance with the terms he had proposed. Such was the +state of things, when Mr. Stephens, secretary to the Admiralty, whose +discrimination of the numerous characters, with which by his station +he is conversant, reflects as much credit on his understanding, as his +upright and able conduct does on the office he has filled for so many +years, and under so many administrations, with honour to himself and +advantage to the public, observed to the board, that since Sir Edward +Hawke and Mr. Dalrymple were equally inflexible, no method remained +but that of finding out another person capable of the service. He +knew, he said, a Mr. Cook, who had been employed as marine surveyor of +Newfoundland, who had been regularly educated in the navy, in which he +was a master, and whom he judged to be fully qualified for the +direction of the present undertaking. Mr. Stephens, at the same time, +recommended it to the board, to take the opinion of Sir Hugh Palliser, +who had lately been governor of Newfoundland, and was intimately +acquainted with Cook's character. Sir Hugh rejoiced in the opportunity +of serving his friend. He strengthened Mr. Stephen's recommendation to +the utmost of his power; and added many things in Mr. Cook's favour, +arising from the particular knowledge which he had of his abilities +and merit. Accordingly, Mr. Cook was appointed to the command of the +expedition by the lords of the Admiralty; and, on this occasion, he +was promoted to the rank of a lieutenant in the royal navy, his +commission bearing date on the 25th of May, 1768. + +When the appointment had taken place, the first object was to provide +a vessel adapted to the purposes of the voyage. This business was +committed to Sir Hugh Palliser; who took Lieutenant Cook to his +assistance, and they examined together a great number of the ships +which then lay in the river Thames. At length they fixed upon one, of +three hundred and seventy tons, to which was given the name of the +Endeavour. + +While preparations were making for Lieutenant Cook's expedition, +Captain Wallis returned from his voyage round the world. The Earl of +Morton, president of the Royal Society, had recommended it to this +gentleman, on his going out, to fix upon a proper place for observing +the transit of Venus. He kept, accordingly, the object in view: and +having discovered, in the course of his enterprise, an island called +by him George's Island, but which has since been found to bear the +name of Otaheite, he judged that Port Royal harbour in this island +would afford an eligible situation for the purpose. Having, +immediately on his return to England, signified his opinion to the +Earl of Morton, the captain's idea was adopted by the society, and an +answer conformable to it was sent to the commissioners of the +Admiralty, who had applied for directions to what place the observers, +should be sent. + +Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had long been assistant to Dr. +Bradley at the royal observatory at Greenwich, was united by +Lieutenant Cook in conducting the astronomical part of the voyage; +and, soon after their appointment, they received ample instructions, +from the council of the Royal Society, with regard to the method of +carrying on their inquiries. The lieutenant was also accompanied by +Joseph Banks, Esq. (now Sir Joseph Banks, Bart.) and Dr. Solander, +who, in the prime of life, and the first of them at great expense to +himself, quitted all the gratifications of polished society, and +engaged in a very tedious, fatiguing, and hazardous navigation, with +the laudable views of acquiring knowledge in general, of promoting +natural knowledge in particular, and of contributing something to the +improvement and the happiness of the rude inhabitants of the earth. + +Though it was the principal, it was not the sole object of Lieutenant +Cook's voyage to observe the transit of Venus. A more accurate +examination of the Pacific Ocean was committed to him, although in +subserviency to his main design; and, when his chief business was +accomplished, he was directed to proceed in making farther discoveries +in the great Southern Seas. + +The complement of Lieutenant Cook's ship consisted of eighty-four +persons besides the commander. Her victualling was for eighteen +months; and there was put on board of her ten carriage and ten swivel +guns, together with an ample store of ammunition and other +necessaries. + +On the 25th of May, 1768, Lieutenant Cook was appointed, by the lords +of the Admiralty, to the command of the Endeavour, in consequence of +which he went on board on the 27th, and took charge of the ship. She +then lay in the bason in Deptford-yard, where she continued to lie +till she was completely fitted for sea. On the 30th of July she sailed +down the river, and on the 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound. +The wind becoming fair on the 26th of that month, our navigators got +under sail, and on the 13th of September anchored in Funchiale Road, +in the island of Madeira. + +While Lieutenant Cook and his company were in this island, they were +treated with the utmost kindness and liberality by Mr. Cheap, the +English consul there, and one of the most considerable merchants in +the town of Funchiale. He insisted upon their taking possession of his +house, and furnished them with every possible accommodation during +their stay at Madeira. They received, likewise, great marks of +attention and civility from Dr. Thomas Heberden, the principal +physician of the island, and brother to the excellent and learned Dr. +William Heberden of London. Dr. Thomas Heberden afforded all the +assistance in his power to Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander in their +botanical inquiries. + +It was not solely from the English that the lieutenant and his friends +experienced a kind reception. The fathers of the Franciscan convent +displayed a liberality of sentiment towards them, which might not have +been expected from Portuguese friars; and, in a visit which they paid +to a convent of nuns, the ladies expressed a particular pleasure at +seeing them. At this visit the good nuns gave an amusing proof of the +progress they had made to the cultivation of their understandings. +Having heard that there were great philosophers among the English +gentlemen, they asked them a variety of questions; one of which was, +when it would thunder; and another, whether a spring of fresh water, +which was much wanted, was any where to be found within the walls of +the convent. Eminent as our philosophers were, they were puzzled by +these questions. + +Lieutenant Cook, having laid in a fresh stock of beef, water, and +wine, set sail from the island of Madeira, in the night of the 18th of +September, and proceeded on his voyage. By the 7th of November several +articles of the ship's provisions began to fall short; for which +reason, the lieutenant determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. This +place he preferred to any other port in Brazil or to Falkland's +Islands, because he could there be better supplied with what he +wanted, and had no doubt of meeting with a friendly reception. + +During the run between Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook and +the gentlemen in the Endeavour had an opportunity of determining a +philosophical question. On the evening of the 29th of October, they +observed that luminous appearance of the sea which has so often been +mentioned by navigators, and which has been ascribed to such a variety +of causes. Flashes of light appeared to be emitted, exactly resembling +those of lightning, though without being so considerable; and such was +the frequency of them, that sometimes eight or ten were visible almost +at the same moment. It was the opinion of Mr. Cook and the other +gentlemen, that these flashes proceeded from some luminous animal; and +their opinion was confirmed by experiment. + +At Rio de Janeiro, in the port of which Lieutenant Cook came to an +anchor on the 13th of November, he did not meet with the polite +reception that, perhaps, he had too sanguinely expected. His stay was +spent in continual altercations, with the viceroy, who appeared not a +little jealous of the designs of the English: nor were all the +attempts of the lieutenant to set the matter right, capable of +producing any effect. The viceroy was by no means distinguished either +by his knowledge or his love of science; and the grand object of Mr. +Cook's expedition was quite beyond his comprehension. When he was told +that the English were bound to the southward, by the order of his +Britannic majesty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the +Sun, an astronomical phenomenon of great importance to navigation, he +could form no other conception of the matter, than that it was the +passing of the North star through the South Pole. + +During the whole of the contest with the viceroy, Lieutenant Cook +behaved with equal spirit and discretion. A supply of water and other +necessaries could not be refused him, and those were gotten on board +by the 1st of December. On that day the lieutenant sent to the viceroy +for a pilot to carry the Endeavour to sea; but the wind preventing the +ship from getting out, she was obliged to continue some time longer in +the harbour. A Spanish packet having arrived at Rio de Janeiro on the +2d of December, with dispatches from Buenos Ayres for Spain, the +commander, Don Antonio de Monte Negro y Velasco, offered, with great +politeness, to convey the letters of the English to Europe. This +favour Lieutenant Cook accepted, and gave Don Antonio a packet for the +secretary of the Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers that +had passed between himself and the Viceroy. He left, also, duplicates +with the viceroy, that he might forward them, if he thought proper, to +Lisbon. + +On the 5th of December, it being a dead calm, our navigators weighed +anchor, and towed down the Bay; but, to their great astonishment, two +shots were fired at them; when they had gotten abreast of Santa Cruz, +the principal fortification of the harbour. Lieutenant Cook +immediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to demand, the reason of +this conduct; the answer to which was, that the commandant had +received no order from the viceroy to let the ship pass; and that, +without such an order, no vessel was ever suffered to go below the +fort. It now became necessary to send to the viceroy, to inquire why +the order had not been given; and his behaviour appeared the more +extraordinary, as notice had been transmitted to him of the departure +of the English, and he had thought proper to write a polite letter to +Mr. Cook, wishing him a good voyage. The lieutenant's messenger soon +returned, with the information that the order had been written several +days, and that its not having been sent had arisen from some +unaccountable negligence. It was not till the 7th of December that the +Endeavour got under sail. + +In the account which Lieutenant Cook has given of Rio de Janeiro, and +the country round it, one circumstance is recorded, which cannot be +otherwise than very painful to humanity. It is the horrid expense of +life at which the gold mines are wrought. No less than forty thousand +Negroes are annually imported for this purpose, on the king of +Portugal's account; and the English were credibly informed, that, in +the year 1766, this number fell so short, that twenty thousand more +were drafted from the town of Rio. + +From Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook pursued his voyage, and, on the +14th of January, 1769, entered the Strait of Le Maire, at which time +the tide drove the ship out with so much violence, and raised such a +sea off Cape St. Diego, that she frequently pitched, so that the +bowsprit was under water. On the next day, the lieutenant anchored, +first before a small cove, which was understood to be Port Maurice, +and afterward in the Bay of Good Success. While the Endeavour was in +this station, happened the memorable adventure of Mr. Banks, Dr. +Solander, Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Green the astronomer, +together with their attendants and servants, and two seamen, in +ascending a mountain to search for plants. In this expedition they +were all of them exposed to the utmost extremity of danger and of +cold; Dr. Solander was seized with a torpor which had nearly proved +fatal to his life; and two black servants actually died. When the +gentlemen had, at length, on the second day of their adventure, gotten +back to the ship, they congratulated each other on their safety, with +a joy that can only be felt by those who have experienced equal +perils; and Mr. Cook was relieved from a very painful anxiety. It was +a dreadful testimony of the severity of the climate, that this event +took place when it was the midst of summer in that part of the world, +and at the close of a day, the beginning of which was as mild and +warm, as the month of May usually is in England. + +In the passage through the Strait of Le Maire, Lieutenant Cook and his +ingenious associates had an opportunity of gaining a considerable +degree of acquaintance with the inhabitants of the adjoining country. +Here it was that they saw human nature to its lowest form. The natives +appeared to be the most destitute and forlorn, as well as the most +stupid, of the children of men. Their lives are spent in wandering +about the dreary wastes that surround them; and their dwellings are no +other than wretched hovels of sticks and grass, which not only admit +the wind, but the snow and the rain. They are almost naked, and so +devoid are they of every convenience which is furnished by the rudest +art, that they have not so much as an implement to dress their food. +Nevertheless, they seemed to have no wish for acquiring more than they +possessed; nor did any thing that was offered them by the English +appear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. A +conclusion is hence drawn by Dr. Hawkesworth, that these people may be +upon a level with ourselves, in respect to the happiness they enjoy. +This, however, is a position which ought not hastily to be admitted. +It is, indeed, a beautiful circumstance, in the order of Divine +Providence, that the rudest inhabitants of the earth, and those who +are situated in the most unfavourable climates, should not be sensible +of their disadvantages. But still it must be allowed, that their +happiness is greatly inferior, both in kind and degree, to that +intellectual, social, and moral felicity, which is capable of being +attained in a highly cultivated state of society. + +In voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, the determination of the best +passage from the Atlantic is a point of peculiar importance. It is +well known what prodigious difficulties were experienced in this +respect by former navigators. The doubling of Cape Horn, in +particular, was so much dreaded, that, to the general opinion, it was +far more eligible to pass through the Strait of Magalhaens. Lieutenant +Cook hath fully ascertained the erroneousness of this opinion. He was +but three-and-thirty days in coming round the land of Terra del Fuego, +from the east entrance of the Strait of Le Maire, till he had advanced +about twelve degrees to the westward, and three and a half to the +northward of the Strait of Magalhaens; and, during this time, the ship +scarcely received any damage. Whereas, if he had come into the Pacific +Ocean by that passage, he would not have been able to accomplish it in +less than three months; besides which, his people would have been +fatigued, and the anchors, cables, sails, and rigging of the vessel +much injured. By the course he pursued, none of these inconveniences +were suffered. In short, Lieutenant Cook, by his own example in +doubling Cape Horn, by his accurate ascertainment of the latitude and +longitude of the places he came to, and by his instructions to future +voyagers, performed the most essential services to this part of +navigation. It was on the 26th of January that the Endeavour took her +departure from Cape Horn; and it appeared; that, from that time to the +1st of March, during a run of six hundred and sixty leagues, there was +no current which affected the ship. Hence it was highly probable that +our navigators had been near no land of any considerable extent, +currents being always found when land is not remote. + +In the prosecution of Lieutenant Cook's voyage from Cape Horn to +Otaheite, several islands were discovered, to which the names were +given of Lagoon Island, Thrump-cap, Bow Island, The Groups, Bird +Island, and Chain Island. It appeared that most of these islands were +inhabited; and the verdure, and groves of palm-trees, which were +visible upon some of them, gave them the aspect of a terrestrial +paradise to men who, excepting the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, +had seen nothing for a long time but sky and water. + +On the 11th of April, the Endeavour arrived in sight of Otaheite, and +on the 13th she came to an anchor in Port Royal Bay, which is called +MATAVIA by the natives. As the stay of the English in the island was +not likely to be very short, and much depended on the manner in which +traffic should be carried on with the inhabitants, Lieutenant Cook, +with great good sense and humanity, drew up a set of regulations for +the behaviour of his people, and gave it in command that they should +punctually be observed.[5] + + [Footnote 5: The rules were as follow: '1. To endeavour, by every + fair means, to cultivate a friendship with the natives: and to + treat them with all imaginable humanity. 2. A proper person or + persons will be appointed to trade with the natives for all manner + of provisions, fruit, and other productions of the earth; and no + officer or seaman, or other person belonging to, the ship + excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade, or offer to + trade, for any sort of provision, fruit, or other productions of + the earth, unless they have leave so to do. 3. Every person + employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend + to the same; and if by any neglect he loseth any of his arms, or + working tools or suffers them to be stolen, the full value + therefore will be charged against his pay, according to the custom + of the navy in such cases, and he shall receive such further + punishment as the nature of the offence may deserve. 4. The same + penalty will be inflicted on every person who is found to + embezzle, trade, or offer to trade, with any part of the ship's + stores of what nature soever. 5. No sort of iron, or any thing + that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful or + necessary articles, are to be given in exchange for any thing but + provision. J. COOK.'] + +One of the first things that occupied the lieutenant's attention, +after his arrival at Otaheite, was to prepare for the execution of his +grand commission. For this purpose, as, in an excursion to the +westward, he had not found any more convenient harbour than that in +which the Endeavour lay, he determined to go on shore and fix upon +some spot, commanded by the guns of the ship, where he might throw up +a small fort for defence, and get every thing ready for making the +astronomical observations. Accordingly, he took a party of men, and +landed, being accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Green. +They soon fixed upon a place very proper for their design, and which +was at a considerable distance from any habitation of the natives. +While the gentlemen were marking out the ground which they intended to +occupy, and seeing a small tent erected, that belonged to Mr. Banks, a +great number of the people of the country gathered gradually around +them, but with no hostile appearance, as there was not among the +Indians a single weapon of any kind. Mr. Cook, however, intimated that +none of them were to come within the line he had drawn excepting one, +who appeared to be a chief, and Owhaw, a native who had attached +himself to the English, both in Captain Wallis's expedition and in the +present voyage. The lieutenant endeavoured to make these two persons +understand, that the ground, which had been marked out, was only +wanted to sleep upon for a certain number of nights, and that then it +would be quitted. Whether his meaning was comprehended or not, he +could not certainly determine; but the people behaved with a deference +and respect that could scarcely have been expected, and which were +highly pleasing. They sat down without the circle, peaceably and +uninterruptedly attending to the progress of the business, which was +upwards of two hours in completing. + +This matter being finished, and Mr. Cook having appointed thirteen +marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, he and the gentlemen +with him set out upon a little excursion into the woods of the +country. They had not, however, gone far, before they were brought +back by a very disagreeable event. One of the Indians, who remained +about the tent after the lieutenant and his friends had left it, +watched an opportunity of taking the sentry at unawares, and snatched +away his musket. Upon this, the petty officer who commanded the party, +and who was a midshipman, ordered the marines to fire. With equal want +of consideration, and, perhaps with equal inhumanity, the men +immediately discharged their pieces among the thickest of the flying +crowd, who consisted of more than a hundred. It being observed, that +the thief did not fall, he was pursued, and shot dead. From subsequent +information it happily appeared, that none of the natives besides were +either killed or wounded. + +Lieutenant Cook, who was highly displeased with the conduct of the +petty officer, used every method in his power to dispel the terrors +and apprehensions of the Indians, but not immediately with effect. The +next morning but few of the inhabitants were seen upon the beach, and +not one of them came off to the shill. What added particularly to the +regret of the English was, that even Owhaw, who had hitherto been so +constant in his attachment, and who the day before had been remarkably +active in endeavouring to renew the peace which had been broken, did +not now make his appearance. In the evening, however, when the +lieutenant went on shore with only a boat's crew and some of the +gentlemen, between thirty and forty of the natives gathered around +them, and trafficked with them, in a friendly manner, for cocoa nuts +and other fruit. + +On the 17th, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green set up a tent onshore, and spent +the night there, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satellite +of Jupiter; but they met with a disappointment, in consequence of the +weather's becoming cloudy. The next day, the lieutenant, with as many +of his people as could possibly be spared from the ship, began to +erect the fort. While the English were employed in this business, many +of the Indians were so far from hindering, that they voluntarily +assisted them, and with great alacrity brought the pickets and facines +from the wood where they had been cut. Indeed, so scrupulous had Mr. +Cook been of invading their property, that every stake which was used +was purchased, and not a tree was cut down till their consent had +first been obtained. + +On the 26th, the lieutenant mounted six swivel guns upon the fort; on +which occasion he saw, with concern, that the natives were alarmed and +terrified. Some fishermen, who lived upon the point, removed to a +greater distance; and Owhaw informed the English by signs, of his +expectation that in four days they would fire their great guns. + +The lieutenant, on the succeeding day, gave a striking proof of his +regard to justice, and of his care to preserve the inhabitants from +injury and violence, by the punishment he inflicted on the butcher of +the Endeavour, who was accused of having threatened, or attempted the +life of a woman, that was the wife of Tubourai Tamaide, a chief, +remarkable for his attachment to our navigators. The butcher wanted to +purchase of her a stone hatchet for a nail. To this bargain she +absolutely refused to accede; upon which the fellow catched up the +hatchet, and threw down the nail; threatening, at the same time, that +if she made any resistance, he would cut her throat with a +reaping-hook which he had in his hand. The charge was so fully proved +in the presence of Mr. Banks, and the butcher had so little to say in +exculpation of himself, that not the least doubt remained of his +guilt. The affair being reported by Mr. Banks to Lieutenant Cook, he +took an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with others of the +natives, were on board the ship, to call up the offender, and, after +recapitulating the accusation and the proof of it, to give orders for +his immediate punishment. While the butcher was stripped, and tied up +to the rigging, the Indians preserved a fixed attention, and waited +for the event in silent suspense. But as soon as the first stroke was +inflicted, such was the humanity of these people, that they interfered +with great agitation, and earnestly entreated that the rest of the +punishment might be remitted. To this, however, the lieutenant, for +various reasons, could not grant his consent; and when they found that +their intercessions were ineffectual, they manifested their compassion +by tears. + +On the 1st of May, the observatory was set up, and the astronomical +quadrant, together with some other instruments, was taken on shore. +When, on the next morning, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green landed for the +purpose of fixing the quadrant in a situation for use, to their +inexpressible surprise and concern it was not to be found. It had been +deposited in a tent reserved for the lieutenant's use, where no one +had slept; it had never been taken out of the packing case, and the +whole was of considerable weight: none of the other instruments were +missing; and a sentinel had been posted the whole night within five +yards of the tent. These circumstances induced a suspicion that the +robbery might have been committed by some of our own people, who +having seen a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might imagine +that it contained nails, or other articles for traffic with the +natives. The most diligent search, therefore, was made, and a large +reward was offered for the finding of the quadrant, but with no degree +of success. In this exigency, Mr. Banks was of eminent service. As +this gentleman had more influence over the Indians than any other +person on board the Endeavour, and as there could be little doubt of +the quadrant's having been conveyed away by some of the natives, he +determined to go in search of it into the woods; and it was recovered +in consequence of his judicious and spirited exertions. The pleasure +with which it was brought back was equal to the importance of the +event; for the grand object of the voyage could not otherwise have +been accomplished. + +Another embarrassment, though not of so serious a nature, was +occasioned, on the very same day, by one of our officers having +inadvertently taken into custody Tootahah, a chief, who had connected +himself in the most friendly manner with the English. Lieutenant Cook, +who had given express orders that none of the Indians should be +confined, and who, therefore, was equally surprised and concerned at +this transaction; instantly set Tootahah at liberty. So strongly had +this Indian been possessed with the notion that it was intended to put +him to death, that he could not be persuaded to the contrary till he +was led out of the fort. His joy at his deliverance was so great, that +it displayed itself in a liberality which our people were very +unwilling to partake of, from a consciousness that on this occasion +they had no claim to the reception of favours. The impression, +however, of the confinement of the chief operated with such force upon +the minds of the natives, that few of them appeared; and the market +was so ill supplied that the English were in want of necessaries. At +length, by the prudent exertions of Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, and +Dr. Solander, the friendship of Tootahah was completely recovered, and +the reconciliation worked upon the Indians like a charm; for it was no +sooner known that he had gone voluntarily on board the Endeavour, than +bread-fruit, cocoa nuts, and other provisions, were brought to the +fort in great plenty. + +The lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen had hitherto, with a +laudable discretion, bartered only beads for the articles of food now +mentioned. But the market becoming slack, they were obliged for the +first time, on the 8th of May, to bring out their nails; and such was +the effect of this new commodity, that one of the smallest size, which +was about four inches long, procured twenty cocoa nuts, and +bread-fruit in proportion. + +It was not till the 10th of the month that our voyagers learned that +the Indian name of the island was OTAHEITE, by which name it hath +since been always distinguished. + +On Sunday the 14th, an instance was exhibited of the inattention of +the natives to our modes of religion. The lieutenant had directed, +that divine service should be performed at the fort; and he was +desirous that some of the principal Indians should be present. Mr. +Banks secured the attendance of Tuobourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio, +hoping that it would give occasion to some inquiries on their part, +and to some instruction in return. During the whole service, they very +attentively observed Mr. Banks's behaviour, and stood, sat, or +kneeled, as they saw him do; and they appeared to be sensible, that it +was a serious and important employment in which the English were +engaged. But when the worship was ended, neither of them asked any +questions, nor would they attend to any explanations which were +attempted to be given of what had been performed. + +As the day approached for executing the grand purpose of the voyage, +Lieutenant Cook determined, in consequence of some hints which he had +received from the Earl of Morton, to send out two parties, to observe +the transit of Venus from other situations. By this means he hoped, +that the success of the observation would be secured, if there should +happen to be any failure at Otaheite. Accordingly, on Thursday the 1st +of June, he dispatched Mr. Gore in the long boat to Eimeo, a +neighbouring island, together with Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing, a +gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks. They were furnished by Mr. Green +with proper instruments. Mr. Banks himself chose to go upon this +expedition, in which he was accompanied by Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio, +and by others of the natives. Early the next morning, the lieutenant +sent Mr. Hicks, in the pinnace, with Mr. Clerk and Mr. Pickersgill, +and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, ordering them to fix upon +some convenient spot to the eastward, at a distance from the principal +observatory, where they also might employ the instruments they were +provided with for observing the transit. + +The anxiety for such weather as would be favourable to the success of +the experiment, was powerfully felt by all the parties concerned. They +could not sleep in peace the preceding night: but their apprehensions +were happily removed by the sun's rising, on the morning of the 3d of +June, without a cloud. The weather continued with equal clearness +through the whole of the day; so that the observation was successively +made in every quarter. At the fort where Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Green, +and Dr. Solander were stationed, the whole passage of the planet Venus +over the sun's disk was observed with great advantage. The magnifying +power of Dr. Solander's telescope was superior to that of those which +belonged to the lieutenant and to Mr. Green. They all saw an +atmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet; which much +disturbed the times of the contact, and especially of the internal +ones; and, in their accounts of these times, they differed from each +other in a greater degree than might have been expected. According to +Mr. Green, + + _Morning._ + The first external contact, or first appearance h. min. sec. + of Venus on the sun, was . . . . . . . . . . . 9 25 42 + The first internal contact, or total immersion, + was . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 44 4 + + _Afternoon._ + The second internal contact, or beginning + of the emersion, was . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 14 8 + The second external contact, or total + emersion, was . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 32 10 + The latitude of the observatory was found to be + 17° 29' 15"; and the longitude 149° 32' 30" west + of Greenwich. + +A more particular account of this great astronomical event, the +providing for the accurate observation of which reflects so much +honour on his majesty's munificent patronage of science, may be seen +in the sixty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions. + +The pleasure which Lieutenant Cook and his friends derived, from +having thus successfully accomplished the first grand object of the +voyage, was not a little abated by the conduct of some of the ship's +company, who, while the attention of the officers was engrossed by the +transit of Venus, broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a +quantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than a hundred weight. +This was an evil of a public and serious nature; for these nails, if +injudiciously circulated among the Indians, would be productive of +irreparable injury to the English, by reducing the value of iron, +their staple commodity. One of the thieves, from whom only seven nails +were recovered, was detected; but though the punishment of two dozen +lashes was inflicted upon him, he would not impeach any of his +accomplices. + +Upon account of the absence of the two parties who had been sent out +to observe the transit, the king's birthday was celebrated on the 5th, +instead of the 4th of June; and the festivity of the day must have +been greatly heightened by the happy success with which his majesty's +liberality had been crowned. + +On the 12th, Lieutenant Cook was again reduced to the necessity of +exercising the severity of discipline. Complaint having been made to +him, by certain of the natives, that two of the seamen had taken from +them several bows and arrows, and some strings of platted hair, and +the charge being fully supported, he punished each of the criminals +with two dozen of lashes. + +On the same day it was discovered, that Otaheite, like other countries +in a certain period of society, has its bards and its minstrels. Mr. +Banks, in his morning's walk, had met with a number of natives, who +appeared, upon inquiry, to be travelling musicians; and, having, +learned where they were to be at night, all the gentlemen of the +Endeavour repaired to the place. The band consisted of two flutes and +three drums; and the drummers accompanied the music with their voices. +To the surprise of the English gentlemen, they found that themselves +were generally the subject of the song, which was unpremeditated. +These minstrels were continually going about from place to place; and +they were rewarded, by the master of the house and the audience, with +such things as they wanted. + +The repeated thefts which were committed by the inhabitants of +Otaheite brought our voyagers into frequent difficulties, and it +required all the wisdom of Lieutenant Cook to conduct himself in a +proper manner. His sentiments on the subject displayed the liberality +of his mind. He thought it of consequence to put an end, if possible +to thievish practices at once, by doing something that should engage +the natives in general to prevent them, from a regard to their common +interest. Strict orders had been given by him, that they should not +be fired upon, even when they were detected in attempting to steal any +of the English property. For this the lieutenant had many reasons. The +common sentinels were in no degree fit to be entrusted with a power of +life and death; neither did Mr. Cook think that the thefts committed +by the Otaheitans deserved so severe a punishment. They were not born +under the law of England; nor was it one of the conditions under which +they claimed the benefits of civil society, that their lives should be +forfeited, unless they abstained from theft. As the lieutenant was not +willing that the natives should be exposed to fire-arms loaded with +shot, neither did he approve of firing only with powder, which, if +repeatedly found to be harmless, would at length be despised. At a +time when a considerable robbery had been committed, an accident +furnished him with what he hoped would be a happy expedient for +preventing future attempts of the same kind. Above twenty of the +sailing canoes of the inhabitants came in with a supply of fish. Upon +these Lieutenant Cook immediately seized, and, having brought them +into the river behind the fort, gave notice, that unless the things +which had been stolen were returned, the canoes should be burnt. This +menace, without designing to put it into execution, he ventured to +publish, from a full conviction that, as restitution was thus made a +common cause, the stolen goods would all of them speedily be brought +back. In this, however, he was mistaken. An iron coal-rake, indeed, +was restored; upon which, great solicitation was made for the release +of the canoes; but he still insisted on his original condition. When +the next day came, he was much surprised to find that nothing further +had been returned; and, as the people were in the utmost distress for +the fish, which would in a short time be spoiled, he was reduced to +the disagreeable alternative, either of releasing the canoes contrary +to what he had solemnly and publicly declared, or of detaining them, +to the great damage of those who were innocent. As a temporary +expedient, he permitted the natives to take the fish, but still +detained the canoes. So far was this measure from being attended with +advantage, that it was productive of new confusion and injury; for as +it was not easy at once to distinguish to what particular persons the +several lots of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered by those who +had no right to any part of their cargo. At length, most pressing +instances being still made for the restoration of the canoes, and +Lieutenant Cook having reason to believe, either that the things for +which he detained them were not in the island, or that those who +suffered by their detention were absolutely incapable of prevailing +upon the thieves to relinquish their booty, he determined, though not +immediately, to comply with the solicitations of the natives. Our +commander was, however, not a little mortified at the ill success of +his project. + +About the same time, another accident occurred, which, notwithstanding +all the caution of our principal voyagers, was very near embroiling +them with the Indians. The lieutenant having sent a boat on shore to +get ballast for the ship, the officer, not immediately finding stones +suitable to the purpose, began to pull down some part of an enclosure +in which the inhabitants had deposited the bones of their dead. This +action a number of the natives violently opposed; and a messenger came +down to the tents, to acquaint the gentlemen that no such thing would +be suffered. Mr. Banks directly repaired to the place, and soon put an +amicable end to the contest, by sending the boat's crew to the river, +where a sufficient quantity of stones might be gathered without a +possibility of giving offence. These Indians appeared to be much more +alarmed at any injury which they apprehended to be done to the dead +than to the living. This was the only measure in which they ventured +to oppose the English: and the only insult that was ever offered to +any individual belonging to the Endeavour was upon a similar occasion. +It should undoubtedly be the concern of all voyagers, to abstain from +wantonly offending the religious prejudices of the people among whom +they come. + +To extend the knowledge of navigation and the sphere of discovery, +objects which we need not say that Lieutenant Cook kept always +steadily in view, he set out, in the pinnace, on the 26th of June, +accompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the island; during +which the lieutenant and his companions were thrown into great alarm, +by the apprehended loss of the boat. By this expedition Mr. Cook +obtained an acquaintance with the several districts of Otaheite, the +chiefs who presided over them, and a variety of curious circumstances +respecting the manners and customs of the inhabitants. On the 1st of +July, he got back to the fort at Matavai, having found the circuit of +the island, including the two peninsulas of which it consisted, to be +about thirty leagues. + +The circumnavigation of Otaheite was followed by an expedition of Mr. +Banks's to trace the river up the valley from which it issues, and +examine how far its banks were inhabited. During this excursion he +discerned many traces of subterraneous fire. The stones, like those of +Madeira, displayed evident tokens of having been burnt; and the very +clay upon the hills had the same appearance. + +Another valuable employment of Mr. Banks was the planting of a great +quantity of the seeds of watermelons, oranges, lemons, limes, and +other plants and trees, which he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. For +these he prepared ground on each side of the fort, and selected as +many varieties of soil as could be found. He gave, also, liberally of +these seeds to the natives, and planted many of them in the woods. + +Lieutenant Cook now began to prepare for his departure. On the 7th of +July, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates and +palisadoes of the fortification; and it was continued to be dismantled +during the two following days. Our commander and the rest of the +gentlemen were in hopes that they should quit Otaheite without giving +or receiving any further offence; but in this respect they were +unfortunately disappointed. The lieutenant had prudently overlooked a +dispute of a smaller nature between a couple of foreign seamen and +some of the Indians, when he was immediately involved in a quarrel, +which lie greatly regretted, and which yet it was totally out of his +power to avoid. In the middle of the night, between the 8th and the +9th, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibson, two of the marines, went +privately from the fort. As they were not to be found in the morning, +Mr. Cook was apprehensive that they intended to stay behind; but, +being unwilling to endanger the harmony and goodwill which at present +subsisted between our people, and the natives, he determined to wait a +day for the chance of the men's return. As, to the great concern of +the lieutenant, the marines were not come back on the morning of the +tenth, inquiry was made after them of the Indians, who acknowledged +that each of them had taken a wife, and had resolved to become +inhabitants of the country. After some deliberation, two of the +natives undertook to conduct such persons to, the place of the +deserters' retreat, as Mr. Cook should think proper to send; and, +accordingly, he dispatched with the guides a petty officer and the +corporal of the marines. As it was of the utmost importance to recover +the men, and to do it speedily, it was intimated to several of the +chiefs who were in the fort with the women, among whom were Tubourai +Targaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be to leave it till +the fugitives were returned; and the lieutenant had the pleasure of +observing, that they received the intimation with very little +indications of alarm, and with assurances, that his people should be +secured and sent back as soon as possible. While this transaction took +place at the fort, our commander sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to +fetch Tootahah on board the ship. Mr. Cook had reason to expect, if +the Indian guides proved faithful, that the deserters, and those who +went in search of them, would return before the evening. Being +disappointed, his suspicions increased, and thinking it not safe, when +the night approached, to let the persons whom he had detained as +hostages continue at the fort, he ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea, +and some others, to be taken on board the Endeavour; a circumstance +which excited so general an alarm, that several of them, and +especially the women, expressed their apprehensions with great emotion +and many tears. Webb, about nine o'clock, was brought back by some of +the natives, who declared that Gibson, and the petty officer and +corporal, would not be restored till Tootahah should be set at +liberty. Lieutenant Cook now found that the tables were turned upon +him: but, having proceeded too far to retreat, he immediately +dispatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, to +rescue the prisoners. Tootahah was, at the same time, informed, that +it behoved him to send some of his people with them, for the purpose +of affording them effectual assistance. With this injunction he +readily complied, and the prisoners were restored without the least +opposition. On the next day they were brought back to the ship, upon +which the chiefs were released from their confinement. Thus ended an +affair which had given the lieutenant a great deal of trouble and +concern. It appears, however, that the measure which he pursued was +the result of an absolute necessity; since it was only by the seizure +of the chiefs that he could have recovered his men. Love was the +seducer of the two marines. So strong was the attachment which they +had formed to a couple of girls, that it was their design to conceal +themselves till the ship had sailed, and to take up their residence in +the island. + +Tupia was one of the natives who had so particularly devoted himself +to the English, that he had scarcely ever been absent from them during +the whole of their stay at Otaheite. He had been Oberea's first +minister, while she was in the height of her power; and he was also +chief priest of the country. To his knowledge of the religious +principles and ceremonies of the Indians, he added great experience in +navigation, and a particular acquaintance with the number and +situation of the neighbouring islands. This man had often expressed a +desire to go with our navigators, and when they were ready to depart, +he came on board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, and +entreated that he might be permitted to proceed with them on their +voyage. To have such a person in the Endeavour, was desirable on many +accounts; and therefore, Lieutenant Cook gladly acceded to his +proposal. + +On the 13th of July, the English weighed anchor: and as soon as the +ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept +with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something very +striking and tender. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a +truly admirable firmness and resolution; for, though he wept, the +effort he made to conceal his tears concurred, with them, to do him +honour. + +The stay of our voyagers at Otaheite was three months, the greater +part of which time was spent in the most cordial friendship with the +inhabitants, and a perpetual reciprocation of good offices. That any +differences should happen was greatly regretted on the part of +Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who were studious to avoid them as +much as possible. The principal causes of them resulted from the +peculiar situation and circumstances of the English and the Indians, +and especially from the disposition of the latter to theft. The +effects of this disposition could not always be submitted to or +prevented. It was happy, however, that there was only a single +instance in which the differences that arose were attended with any +fatal consequence; and by that accident the lieutenant was instructed +to take the most effectual measures for the future prevention of +similar events. He had nothing so much at heart, as that in no case +the intercourse of his people with the natives should be productive of +bloodshed. + +The traffic with the inhabitants for provisions and refreshments, +which was chiefly under the management of Mr. Banks, was carried on +with as much order as in any well regulated market in Europe. Axes, +hatchets, spikes, large nails, looking-glasses, knives, and beads, +were found to be the best articles to deal in; and for some of these, +every thing which the inhabitants possessed might be procured. They +were, indeed, fond of fine linen cloth, whether white or printed; but +an axe worth half-a-crown would fetch more than a piece of cloth of +the value of twenty shillings. + +It would deviate from the plan of this narrative, to enter into a +minute account of the nature, productions, inhabitants, customs, and +manners of the countries which were discovered or visited by Mr. Cook; +or to give a particular detail of every nautical, geographical, and +astronomical observation. It will be sufficient here to take notice, +that our commander did not depart from Otaheite without accumulating a +store of information and instruction for the enlargement of knowledge +and the benefit of navigation. + +While the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage under an easy sail, Tupia +informed Lieutenant Cook, that, at four of the neighbouring islands, +which he distinguished by the names of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and +Bolabola, hogs, fowls and other refreshments, which had latterly been +sparingly supplied at Otaheite, might be procured in great plenty. The +lieutenant, however, was desirous of first examining an island that +lay to the northward, and was called Tethuroa. Accordingly, he came +near it; but having found it to be only a small low island and being +told, at the same time, that it had no settled inhabitants, he +determined to drop any further examination of it, and to go in search +of Huaheine and Ulietea, which were described to be well peopled, and +as large as Otaheite. + +On the 15th of July, the weather being hazy, with light breezes and +calms succeeding each other, so that no land could be seen, and little +way was made, Tupia afforded an amusing proof, that, in the exercise +of his priestly character, he knew how to unite some degree of art +with his superstition. He often prayed for a wind to his god Tane, and +as often boasted of his success. This, indeed, he took a most +effectual method to secure; for he never began his address to his +divinity, till he perceived the breeze to be so near, that he knew it +must approach the ship before his supplication could well be brought +to a conclusion. + +The Endeavour, on the 16th, being close in with the north-west part of +Huaheine, some canoes soon came off, in one of which was the king of +the island and his wife. At first the people seemed afraid; but, upon +seeing Tupia, their apprehensions were in part dispersed, and, at +length, in consequence of frequent and earnestly repeated assurances +of friendship, their majesties, and several others, ventured on board +the ship. Their astonishment at every thing which was shewn them was +very great; and yet their curiosity did not extend to any objects but +what were particularly pointed out to their notice. When they had +become more familiar, Mr. Cook was given to understand, that the king +was called Oree, and that he proposed as a mark of amity, their making +an exchange of their names. To this our commander readily consented; +and, during the remainder of their being together, the lieutenant was +Oree, and his majesty was Cookee. In the afternoon, the Endeavour +having come to an anchor, in a small but excellent harbour on the west +side of the island, the name of which was Owharre, Mr. Cook, +accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse, Tupia, and the +natives who had been on board ever since the morning, immediately went +on shore. The English gentlemen repeated their excursions on the two +following days; in the course of which they found that the people of +Huaheine had a very near resemblance to those of Otaheite, in person, +dress language, and every other circumstance; and that the productions +of the country were exactly similar. + +In trafficking with our people, the inhabitants of Huaheine displayed +a caution and hesitation which rendered the dealing with them slow and +tedious. On the 19th, therefore, the English were obliged to bring out +some hatchets, which it was at first hoped there would be no occasion +for, in an island that had never before been visited by any European. +These procured three very large hogs; and as it was proposed to sail +in the afternoon, Oree and several others came on board to take their +leave. To the king Mr. Cook gave a small pewter plate, on which was +stamped this inscription; 'His Britannic Majesty's ship Endeavour, +Lieutenant James Cook, commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine.' Among +other presents made to Oree, were some medals or counters, resembling +the coin of England, and struck in the year 1761; all of which, and +particularly the plate he promised carefully and inviolably to +preserve. This the lieutenant thought to be as lasting a testimony as +any he could well provide, that the English had first discovered the +island; and having dismissed his visitors, who were highly pleased +with the treatment they had met with, he sailed for Ulietea, in a good +harbour of which he anchored the next day. + +Tupia had expressed his apprehension, that our navigators, if they +landed upon the island, would be exposed to the attacks of the men of +Bolabola, whom he represented as having lately conquered it, and of +whom he entertained a very formidable idea. This, however, did not +deter Mr. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and the other gentlemen, from +going immediately on shore. Tupia, who was of the party, introduced +them by performing some ceremonies which he had practised before at +Huaheine. After this the lieutenant hoisted an English jack, and in +the name of his Britannic majesty, took possession of Ulietea, and the +three neighbouring islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola all of which +were in sight. + +On the 21st, the master was despatched in the longboat, to examine the +coast of the south part of the island; and one of the mates was sent +in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay. At the same +time Lieutenant Cook went himself in the pinnace, to survey that part +of Ulietea which lies to the north. Mr. Banks likewise, and the +gentlemen again went on shore, and employed themselves in trading with +the natives, and in examining the productions and curiosities of the +country; but they saw nothing worthy of notice, excepting some human +jaw-bones, which, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were +trophies of war, and had probably been hung up, by the warriors of +Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest. + +The weather being hazy on the 22d and 23d, with strong gales, the +lieutenant did not venture to put to sea; but, on the 24th, though the +wind continued to be variable, he got under sail, and plied to the +northward within the reef, purposing to get out at a wider opening +than that by which he had entered the harbour. However, in doing this, +he was in imminent danger of striking on the rock. The master, who by +his order had kept continually sounding in the chains, suddenly called +out, 'two fathom.' Though our commander knew that the ship drew at +least fourteen feet, and consequently that the shoal could not +possibly be under her keel, he was, nevertheless, justly alarmed. +Happily, the master was either mistaken, or the Endeavour went along +the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these +islands, are as steep as a wall. + +After a tedious navigation of some days, during which several small +islands were seen, and the longboat landed at Otaha, Lieutenant Cook +returned to Ulietea, but to a different part of it from that which he +had visited before. In a harbour, belonging to the west side of the +island, he came to an anchor on the 1st of August. This measure was +necessary, in order to stop a leak which the ship had sprung in the +powder-room, and to take in more ballast, as she was found too light +to carry sail upon a wind. The place where the Endeavour was secured +was conveniently situated for the lieutenant's purpose of obtaining +ballast and water. + +Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and the gentlemen who went on shore this day, +spent their time much to their satisfaction. The reception they met +was respectful in the highest degree, and the behaviour of the Indians +to the English indicated a fear of them, mixed with a confidence that +they had no propensity to commit any kind of injury. In an intercourse +which the lieutenant and his friends carried on, for several days, +with the inhabitants of this part of the island, it appeared that the +terrors which Tupia had expressed of the Bolabola conquerors were +wholly groundless. Even Opoony, the formidable king of Bolabola, +treated our navigators with respect. Being at Ulietea on the 5th of +August, he sent Mr. Cook a present of three hogs, some fowls, and +several pieces of cloth, of uncommon length, together with a +considerable quantity of plaintains, cocoa-nuts, and other +refreshments. This present was accompanied with a message, that, on +the next day, he intended to pay our commander a visit. Accordingly, +on the 6th, the lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen all staid at +home, in expectation of this important visitor; who did not, however, +make his appearance, but sent three very pretty girls as his +messengers, to demand something in return for his present. In the +afternoon, as the great king would not go to the English, the English +determined to go to the great king. From the account which had been +given of him, as lord of the Bolabola men, who were the conquerors of +Ulietea, and the terror of all the other islands, Lieutenant Cook and +his companions expected to see a young and vigorous chief, with an +intelligent countenance, and the marks of an enterprising spirit; +instead of which they found a feeble wretch, withered and decrepit, +half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid, that he scarcely +appeared to be possessed even of a common degree of understanding. +Otaha being the principal place of Opoony's residence, he went with +our navigators to that island on the next day; and they were in hopes +of deriving some advantage from his influence, in obtaining such +provision as they wanted. In this respect, however, they were +disappointed; for, though they had presented him with an axe, as an +inducement to him to encourage his subjects in dealing with them they +were obliged to leave him without having procured a single article. + +The time which the carpenters had taken up in stopping the leak of the +ship having detained our voyagers longer at Ulietea than they would +otherwise have staid, Lieutenant Cook determined to give up the design +of going on shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to be +difficult of access. The principal islands, about which the English +had now spent somewhat more than three weeks, were six in number; +Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and Maurua. As they lie +contigious to each other, the lieutenant gave them the general +appellation of the Society Islands; but did not think proper to +distinguish them separately by any other names than those by which +they were called by the natives. + +On the 9th of August, the leak of the vessel having been stopped, and +the fresh stock that had been purchased being brought on board, our +commander took the opportunity of a breeze which sprang up at east, +and sailed out of the harbour. As he was sailing away, Tupia strongly +urged him to fire a shot towards Bolabola; and, though that island was +at seven leagues distance, the lieutenant obliged him by complying +with his request. Tupia's views probably were, to display a mark of +his resentment, and to shew the power of his new allies. + +Our voyagers pursued their course, without meeting with any event +worthy of notice, till the 13th, when land was discovered, bearing +south-east, and which Tupia informed them to be an island called +Oheteroa. On the next day, Mr. Cook sent Mr. Gore, one of his +lieutenants, in the pinnace, with orders, that he should endeavour to +get onshore, and learn from the natives, whether there was anchorage +in a bay then in sight, and what land lay further to the southward. +Mr. Gore was accompanied in this expedition by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander +and Tupia, who used every method, but in vain, to conciliate the minds +of the inhabitants, and to engage them in a friendly intercourse. As, +upon making the circuit of the island, neither harbour nor anchorage +could be found upon it, and at the same time, the disposition of the +people was so hostile, that landing would be rendered impracticable +without bloodshed, Mr. Cook determined, with equal wisdom and +humanity, not to attempt it, having no motive that could justify the +risk of life. + +From Tupia our navigators learned, that there were various islands +lying at different distances and in different directions from +Oheteroa, between the south and the north-west; and that to the +north-east there was an island called Manua, Bird Island. This he +represented as being at the distance of three days' sail; but he +seemed most desirous that Lieutenant Cook should proceed to the +westward, and described several islands in that situation, which he +said he had visited. It appeared from his description of them, that +these were probably Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, which were +discovered by Captain Wallis. The furthest island that Tupia knew of +to the southward, lay, he said, at the distance of about two days' +sail from Oheteroa, and was called Moutou. But he added, that his +father had informed him of there being islands still more to the +south. Upon the whole, our commander determined to stand southward in +search of a continent, and to lose no time in attempting to discover +any other islands, than such as he might happen to fall in with during +his course. + +On the 15th of August, our voyagers sailed from Oheteroa; and, on the +25th of the same month was celebrated the anniversary of their +departure from England. The comet was seen on the 30th. It was a +little above the horizon, in the eastern part of the heavens, at one +in the morning; and at about half an hour after four it passed the +meridian, and its tail subtended an angle of forty-two degrees. Tupia, +who was among others that observed the comet, instantly cried out, +that as soon as it should be seen by the people of Bolabola, they +would attack the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would be obliged to +endeavour to preserve their lives by fleeing with the utmost +precipitation to the mountains. + +On the 6th of October land was discovered, which appeared to be large. +When, on the next day, it was more distinctly visible, it assumed a +still larger appearance, and displayed four or five ranges of hills, +rising one over the other, above all which was a chain of mountains of +an enormous height. This land naturally became the subject of much +eager conversation; and the general opinion of the gentlemen on board +the Endeavour was, that they had found the _Terra australis +incognita_. In fact, it was a part of New Zealand, where the first +adventures the English met with were very unpleasant, on account of +the hostile disposition of the inhabitants. + +Lieutenant Cook having anchored, on the 8th, in a bay, at the entrance +of a small river, went on shore in the evening, with the pinnace and +yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and attended with a +party of men. Being desirous of conversing with some natives, whom he +had observed on the opposite side of the river from that on which he +had landed, he ordered the yawl in, to carry himself and his +companions over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When they came +near the place where the Indians were assembled, the latter all ran +away; and the gentlemen having left four boys to take care of the +yawl, walked up to several huts, which were about two or three hundred +yards from the water-side. They had not gone very far, when four men, +armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and, running up to +attack the boat, would certainly have cut her off, if they had not +been discovered by the people in the pinnace, who called to the boys +to drop down the stream. The boys instantly obeyed; but being closely +pursued by the natives, the cockswain of the pinnace, to whom the +charge of the boats was committed, fired a musket over their heads. At +this they stopped and looked around them; but their alarm speedily +subsiding, they brandished their lances in a threatening manner, and +in a few minutes renewed the pursuit. The firing of a second musket +over their heads did not draw from them any kind of notice. At last +one of them having lifted up his spear to dart it at the boat, another +piece was fired, by which he was shot dead. At the fall of their +associate, the three remaining Indians stood for awhile motionless, +and seemed petrified with astonishment. No sooner had they recovered +themselves, than they went back, dragging after them the dead body, +which, however, they were obliged to leave, that it might not retard +their flight. Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who had straggled to a +little distance from each other, were drawn together upon the report +of the first musket, and returned speedily to the boat, in which +having crossed the river, they soon beheld the Indian lying dead upon +the ground. After their return to the ship, they could hear the people +on shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone of +voice. + +Notwithstanding this disaster, the lieutenant being desirous of +establishing an intercourse with the natives, ordered, on the +following day, three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and +proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, +the other gentlemen, and Tupia. About fifty of the inhabitants seemed +to wait for their landing, having seated themselves upon the ground, +on the opposite side of the river. This being regarded as a sign of +fear, Mr. Cook, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, advanced +towards them; but they had not gone many paces before all the Indians +started up, and every man produced either a long pike, or a small +weapon of green talk. Though Tupia called to them in the language of +Otaheite, they only answered by flourishing their weapons, and making +signs for the gentlemen to depart. On a musket being fired wide of +them, they desisted from their threats; and our commander, who had +prudently retreated till the marines could be landed, again advanced +towards them, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, to whom were +now added Mr. Green and Mr. Monkhouse. Tupia was a second time +directed to speak to them, and it was perceived with great pleasure +that he was perfectly understood, his and their language being the +same, excepting only in a diversity of dialect. He informed them that +our voyagers only wanted provision and water, in exchange for iron, +the properties of which he explained as far as he was able. Though the +natives seemed willing to trade, Tupia was sensible, during the course +of his conversation with them, that their intentions were unfriendly; +and of this he repeatedly warned the English gentlemen. At length, +twenty or thirty of the Indians were induced to cross the river, upon +which presents were made them of iron and beads. On these they +appeared to set little value and particularly on the iron, not having +the least conception of its use, so that nothing was obtained in +return excepting a few feathers. Their arms, indeed, they offered to +exchange for those of our voyagers, and this being refused, they made +various attempts to snatch them out of their hands. Tupia was now +instructed to acquaint the Indians, that our gentlemen would be +obliged to kill them, if they proceeded to any further violence; +notwithstanding which, one of them, while Mr. Green happened to turn +about, seized his hanger, and retired to a little distance, with a +shout of exultation. The others, at the same time, began to be +extremely insolent, and more of the natives were seen coming to join +them from the opposite side of the river. It being, therefore, +necessary to repress them, Mr. Banks fired, with small shot, at the +distance of about fifteen yards, upon the man who had taken the +hanger. Though he was struck, he did not return the hanger, but +continued to wave it round his head, while he slowly made his retreat. +Mr. Monkhouse then fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped. +So far, however, were the Indians from being sufficiently terrified, +that the main body of them, who, upon the first discharge, had retired +to a rock in the middle of the river, began to return, and it was with +no small difficulty that Mr. Monkhouse secured the hanger. The whole +number of them continuing to advance, three of the English party +discharged their pieces at them, loaded only with small shot, upon +which they swam back for the shore, and it appeared, upon their +landing, that two or three of them were wounded. While they retired +slowly up the country, Lieutenant Cook and his companions re-embarked +in their boats. + +As the lieutenant had unhappily experienced that nothing, at this +place, could be done with these people and found that the water in the +river was salt, he proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay in +search of fresh water. Beside this, he had formed a design of +surprising some of the natives, and taking them on board, that, by +kind treatment and presents he might obtain their friendship, and +render them the instruments of establishing for him an amicable +intercourse with their countrymen. While, upon account of a dangerous +surf which every where beat upon the shore, the boats were prevented +from landing, our commander saw two canoes coming in from the sea, one +under sail, and the other worked with paddles. This he thought to be a +favourable opportunity for executing his purpose. Accordingly, the +boats were disposed in such a manner as appeared most likely to be +successful in intercepting the canoes. Notwithstanding this, the +Indians in the canoe which was paddled exerted themselves with so much +vigour, at the first apprehension of danger, that they escaped to the +nearest land. The other canoe sailed on without discerning the +English, till she was in the midst of them; but no sooner had she +discovered them, than the people on board struck their sail, and plied +their paddles so briskly, as to outrun the boat by which they were +pursued. Being within hearing, Tupia called to them to come alongside, +with assurances that they should not in any degree be hurt or injured. +They trusted, however, more to their own paddles than to Tupia's +promises, and continued to flee from our navigators with all their +power. Mr. Cook, as the least exceptionable expedient of accomplishing +his design, ordered a musket to be fired over their heads. This, he +hoped, would either make them surrender or leap into the water, but it +produced a contrary effect. The Indians, who were seven in number, +immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight. When, +therefore, the boat came up, they began to attack with their paddles, +and with stones and other offensive weapons; and they carried it on +with so much vigour and violence, that the English thought themselves +obliged to fire upon them in their own defence; the consequence of +which was, that four were unhappily killed. The other three, who were +boys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, +instantly leaped into the water, and endeavoured to make their escape; +but being with some difficulty overpowered by our people, they were +brought into the boat. + +It is impossible to reflect upon this part of Lieutenant Cook's +conduct with any degree of satisfaction. He, himself, upon a calm +review, did not approve of it; and he was sensible that it would be +censured by the feelings of every reader of humanity. It is probable +that his mind was so far irritated by the disagreeable preceding +events of this unfortunate day, and by the unexpected violence of the +Indians in the canoe, as to lose somewhat of that self-possession, by +which his character in general was eminently distinguished. Candour, +however, requires, that I should relate what he hath offered in +extenuation, not in defence, of the transaction; and this shall be +done in his own words. "These people certainly did not deserve death +for not choosing to confide in my promises, or not consenting to come +on board my boat, even if they had apprehended no danger. But the +nature of my service required me to obtain a knowledge of their +country, which I could no otherwise effect, than by forcing my way +into it in a hostile manner, or gaining admission through the +confidence and goodwill of the people. I had already tried the power +of presents without effect; and I was now prompted, by my desire to +avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as the only +method left of convincing them, that we intended them no harm, and had +it in our power to contribute to their gratification and convenience. +Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal; and though in the +contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our victory might +have been complete without so great an expense of life; yet in such +situations, when the command to fire has been given, no man can +restrain its excess, or prescribe its effect." + +Our voyagers were successful in conciliating the minds of the three +boys, to which Tupia particularly contributed. When their fears were +allayed, and their cheerfulness returned, they sang a song with a +degree of taste, that surprised the English gentlemen. The tune, like +those of our psalms, was solemn and slow, containing many notes and +semitones. + +Some further attempts were made to establish an intercourse with the +natives, and Mr. Cook and his friends, on the 10th, went on shore for +that purpose; but being unsuccessful in their endeavours, they +resolved to re-embark lest their stay should embroil them in another +quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. On the next day the +lieutenant weighed anchor, and stood away from this unfortunate and +inhospitable place. As it had not afforded a single article that was +wanted excepting wood, he gave it the name of Poverty Bay. By the +inhabitants it is called Taoneroa, or Long Sand. I shall not regularly +pursue the course of our commander round New Zealand. In this course +he spent nearly six months, and made large additions to the knowledge +of navigation and geography. By making almost the whole circuit of New +Zealand, he ascertained it to be two islands, with a strength of +evidence which no prejudice could gainsay or resist. He obtained +likewise a full acquaintance with the inhabitants of the different +parts of the country, with regard to whom it was clearly proved, that +they are eaters of human flesh. Omitting a number of minute +circumstances, I shall only select a few things which mark Mr. Cook's +personal conduct, and relate to his intercourse with the natives. + +The good usage the three boys had met with, and the friendly and +generous manner in which they were dismissed to their own homes, had +some effect in softening the dispositions of the neighbouring Indians. +Several of them, who had come on board while the ship lay becalmed in +the afternoon, manifested every sign of friendship, and cordially +invited the English to go back to their old bay, or to a cove which +was not quite so far off. But Lieutenant Cook chose rather to +prosecute his discoveries, having reason to hope that he should find a +better harbour than any he had yet seen. + +While the ship was, hauling round to the south end of a small island, +which the lieutenant had named Portland, from its very great +resemblance to Portland in the British Channel, she suddenly fell into +shoal water and broken ground. The soundings were never twice the +same, jumping at once from seven fathom to eleven. However, they were +always seven fathom or more; and in a short time the Endeavour got +clear of danger, and again sailed in deep water. While the ship was in +apparent distress, the inhabitants of the islands, who in vast numbers +sat on its white cliffs, and could not avoid perceiving some +appearance of confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working +of the vessel, were desirous of taking advantage of her critical +situation. Accordingly, five canoes full of men, and well armed, were +put off with the utmost expedition; and they came so near, and shewed +so hostile a disposition by shouting, brandishing their lances, and +using threatening gestures, that the lieutenant was in pain for his +small boat, which was still employed in sounding. By a musket which he +ordered to be fired over them, they were rather provoked than +intimidated. The firing of a four pounder loaded with grape shot, +though purposely discharged wide of them, produced a better effect. +Upon the report of the piece the Indians all rose up and shouted; but +instead of continuing the chase, they collected themselves together, +and, after a short consultation, went quietly away. + +On the 14th of October, Lieutenant Cook having hoisted out his pinnace +and long boat to search for water, just as they were about to set off, +several boats full of the New Zealand people were seen coming from the +shore. After some time five of these boats, having on board between +eighty and ninety men, made towards the ship; and four more followed +at no great distance, as if to sustain the attack. When the first five +had gotten within about a hundred yards of the Endeavour, they began +to sing their war song, and brandishing their pikes, prepared for an +engagement. As the lieutenant was extremely desirous of avoiding the +unhappy necessity of using fire-arms against the natives, Tupia was +ordered to acquaint them that our voyagers had weapons which, like +thunder, would destroy them in a moment; that they would immediately +convince them of their power by directing their effect so that they +should not be hurt; but that if they persisted in any hostile attempt, +they would be exposed to the direct attack of these formidable +weapons. A four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was then fired wide +of them; and this expedient was fortunately attended with success. The +report, the flash, and above all the shot, which spread very far in +the water, terrified the Indians to such a degree, that they began to +paddle away with all their might. At the instance, however, of Tupia, +the people of one of the boats were induced to lay aside their arms, +and to come under the stern of the Endeavour; in consequence of which +they received a variety of presents. + +On the next day a circumstance occurred, which shewed how ready one of +the inhabitants of New Zealand was to take an advantage of our +navigators. In a large armed canoe, which came boldly alongside of the +ship, was a man who had a black skin thrown over him, somewhat like +that of a bear. Mr. Cook being desirous of knowing to what animal it +originally belonged, offered the Indian for it a piece of red baize. +With this bargain he seemed to be greatly pleased, immediately pulling +off the skin, and holding it up in the boat. He would not, however, +part with it till he had the cloth in his possesssion; and as their +could be no transfer of property if equal caution should be exercised +on both sides, the lieutenant ordered the baize to be delivered into +his hands. Upon this, instead of sending up the skin, he began with +amazing coolness to pack up both that and the cloth, which he had +received as the purchase of it, in a basket: nor did he pay the least +regard to Mr. Cook's demand or remonstrances, but soon after put off +from the English vessel. Our commander was too generous to revenge +this insult by any act of severity. + +During the course of a traffic which was carrying on for some fish, +little Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was placed among others over the ship's +side; to hand up what was purchased. While he was thus employed, one +of the New Zealanders, watching his opportunity, suddenly seized him +and dragged him into a canoe. Two of the natives then held him down in +the fore part of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled her +off with all possible celerity. An action so violent rendered it +indispensably necessary that the marines, who were in arms upon the +deck, should be ordered to fire. Though the shot was directed to that +part of the canoe which was furthest from the boy, and somewhat wide +of her, it being thought favourable rather to miss the rowers than to +run the hazard of hurting Tayeto, it happened that one man dropped. +This occasioned the Indians to quit their hold of the youth, who +instantly leaped into the water, and swam towards the ship. In the +meanwhile, the largest of the canoes pulled round and followed him; +and till some muskets and a great gun were fired at her, did not +desist from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat was +lowered, and the poor boy was taken up unhurt. Some of the gentlemen, +who with their glasses traced the canoes to shore, agreed in asserting +that they saw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to be +either dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds. + +While, on the 18th, the Endeavour lay abreast of a peninsula within +Portland Island, called Terakako, two of the natives, who were judged +to be chiefs, placed an extraordinary degree of confidence in Mr. +Cook. They were so well pleased with the kindness which had been shown +them in a visit to the ship, that they determined not to go on shore +till the next morning. This was a circumstance by no means agreeable +to the lieutenant, and he remonstrated against it; but as they +persisted in their resolution, he agreed to comply with it, provided +their servants were also taken on board, and their canoe hoisted into +the ship. The countenance of one of these two chiefs was the most open +and ingenuous that our commander had ever seen, so that he soon gave +up every suspicion of his entertaining any sinister design. When the +guests were put on shore the next morning, they expressed some +surprise at seeing themselves so far from their habitations. + +On Monday the 23rd, while the ship was in Tagadoo Bay, Lieutenant Cook +went on shore to examine the watering-place, and found every thing +agreeable to his wishes. The boat landed in the cove, without the +least serf; the water was excellent, and conveniently situated: there +was plenty of wood close to the high water mark, and the disposition +of the people was as favourable in all respects as could be desired. +Early the next morning, our commander sent Lieutenant Gore to +superintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with a +sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the marines as a +guard. Soon after he went on shore himself, and continued there during +the whole day. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had landed on the same +day, found in their walks several things worthy of notice. As they +were advancing in some of the valleys, the hills on each side of which +were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight of an +extraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock perforated through its +whole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or cavern, +opening directly to the sea. This aperture was seventy-five feet long, +twenty-seven broad, and five and forty feet high, commanding a view of +the bay and the hills on the other side, which were seen through it; +and opening at once upon the view, produced an effect far superior to +any of the contrivances of art. + +When on the 28th the gentlemen of the Endeavour went on shore upon an +island which lies to the left hand of the entrance of Tolaga Bay, they +saw there the largest canoe they had yet met with; her length being +sixty-eight feet and a half, her breadth five feet, and her height +three feet six inches. In the same island was a larger house than any +they had hitherto seen; but it was in an unfinished state, and full of +chips. + +While the ship was in Hicks's Bay, the inhabitants of the adjoining +coast were found to be very hostile. This gave much uneasiness to our +navigators, and was indeed contrary to their expectation; for they had +hoped that the report of their power and clemency had spread to a +greater extent. At day-break, on the 1st of November, they counted no +less than five and forty canoes that were coming from the shore +towards the Endeavour; and these were followed by several more from +another place. Some of the Indians traded fairly; but others of them +took what was handed down to them without making any return, and added +derision to fraud. The insolence of one of them was very remarkable. +Some linen hanging over the ship's side to dry, this man without any +ceremony untied it, and put it up in his bundle. Being immediately +called to, and required to return it, instead of doing so, he let his +canoe drop astern, and laughed at the English. A musket which was +fired over his head, did not put a stop to his mirth. From a second +musket, which was loaded with small shot, he shrunk a little, when the +shot struck him upon his back; but he regarded it no more than one of +our men would have done the stroke of a rattan, and continued with +great composure to pack up the linen which he hard stolen. All the +canoes now dropped astern, and set up their song of defiance, which +lasted till they were at about four hundred yards' distance from the +ship. As they did not appear to have a design of attacking our +voyagers, Lieutenant Cook was unwilling to do them any hurt; and yet +he thought that their going off in a bravado might have a bad effect +when it should be reported on shore. To convince them therefore, that +they were still in his power, though far beyond the reach of any +missile weapon with which they were acquainted, he ordered a four +pounder to be fired in such a manner as to pass near them. As the shot +happened to strike the water, and to rise several times at a great +distance beyond the canoes, the Indians were so much terrified, that +without once looking behind them, they paddled away as fast as they +were able. + +In standing westward from a small island called Mowtohora, the +Endeavour suddenly shoaled her water front seventeen to ten fathom. As +the lieutenant knew that she was not far off from some small islands +and rocks, which lead been seen before it was dark, and which he had +intended to have passed that evening, he thought it more prudent to +tack, and to spend the night under Mowtohora, where he was certain +that there was no danger. It was happy for himself, and for all our +voyagers, that he formed this resolution. In the morning they +discovered ahead of them several rocks, some of which were level with +the surface of the water, and some below it; and the striking against +which could not in the hour of darkness, have been avoided. In passing +between these rocks and the main, the ship had only from ten to seven +fathom water. + +While Mr. Cook was near an island which he called the Mayor, the +inhabitants of the neighbouring coast displayed many instances of +hostility, and, in their traffic with our navigators, committed +various acts of fraud and robbery. As the lieutenant intended to +continue in the place five or six days, in order to make an +observation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary for +the prevention of future mischief, to convince these people that the +English were not to be ill treated with impunity. Accordingly, some +small shot were fired at a thief of uncommon insolence, and a musket +ball was discharged through the bottom of his boat. Upon this it was +paddled to about a hundred yards' distance; and to the surprise of Mr. +Cook and his friends, the Indians in the other canoes took not the +least notice of their wounded companion, though he bled very much, but +returned to the ship, and continued to trade with the most perfect +indifference and unconcern. For a considerable time they dealt fairly. +At last, however, one of them thought fit to move off with two +different pieces of cloth which had been given for the same weapon. +When he had gotten to such a distance, that he thought himself secure +of his prizes, a musket was fired after him, which fortunately struck +the boat just at the water's edge, and made two holes in her side. +This excited such an alarm, that not only the people who were shot at, +but all the rest of the canoes, made off with the utmost expedition. +As the last proof of superiority, our commander ordered a round shot +to be fired over them, and not a boat stopped till they got to land. + +After an early breakfast on the 9th of November, Lieutenant Cook went +on shore, with Mr. Green, and proper instruments, to observe the +transit of Mercury. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were of the party. The +weather had for some time been very thick, with much rain; but this +day proved so favourable, that not a cloud intervened during the whole +transit. The observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, +Mr. Cook being employed in taking the Sun's altitude to ascertain the +time. + +While the gentlemen were thus engaged on shore, they were alarmed by +the firing of a great gun from the ship: and on their return received +the following account of the transaction from Mr. Gore, the second +lieutenant, who had been left commanding officer on board. During the +carrying on of a trade with some small canoes, two very large ones +came up full of men. In one of the canoes were forty-seven persons, +all of whom were armed with pikes, stones, and darts, and assumed the +appearance of a hostile intention. However, after a little time they +began to traffic, some of them offering their arms, and one of them a +square piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called +_haabow_. Mr. Gore having agreed for it, sent down the price, +which was a piece of British cloth, and expected his purchase. But as +soon as the Indian had gotten Mr. Gore's cloth in his possession, he +refused to part with his own, and put off his canoe. Upon being +threatened for his fraud, he and his companions began to sing their +war song in defiance, and shook their paddles. Though their insolence +did not proceed to an attack, and only defied Mr. Gore to take any +remedy in his power, he was so provoked, that he levelled a musket, +loaded with ball, at the offender, while he was holding the cloth in +his hand, and shot him dead. When the Indian fell, all the canoes put +off to some distance, but continued to keep together in such a manner +that it was apprehended they might still meditate an attack. To secure +therefore a safe passage for the boat of the Endeavour, which was +wanted on shore, a round shot was fired with so much effect over +their heads, as to make them all flee with the utmost precipitation. +It was matter of regret to Lieutenant Cook that Mr. Gore had not, in +the case of the offending Indian, tried the experiment of a few small +shot, which had been successful in former instances of robbery. + +On Friday, the 10th, our commander, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the +other gentlemen, went with two boats, to examine a large river that +empties itself into the head of Mercury Bay. As the situation they +were now in abounded with conveniences, the lieutenant has taken care +to point them out, for the benefit of future navigators. If any +occasion should ever render it necessary for a ship either to winter +here, or to stay for a considerable length of time, tents might be +built on a high point or peninsula in this place, upon ground +sufficiently spacious for the purpose; and they might easily be made +impregnable to the whole force of the country. Indeed the most skilful +engineer in Europe could not choose a situation better adapted to +enable a small number to defend themselves against a greater. Among +other accommodations which the Endeavour's company met with in Mercury +Bay, they derived an agreeable refreshment from some oyster beds, +which they had fortunately discovered. The oysters, which were as good +as ever came from Colchester, and about the same size, were so +plentiful, that not the boat only, but the ship itself, might have +been loaded in one tide. + +On Wednesday, the 15th, Lieutenant Cook sailed out of Mercury Bay. +This name has been given to it, on account of the observation which +had there been made of the transit of that planet over the sun. The +river where oysters had been so plentifully found, he called Oyster +River. There is another river, at the head of the Bay, which is the +best and safest place for a ship that wants to stay any length of +time. From the number of mangroves about it, the lieutenant named it +Mangrove River. In several parts of Mercury Bay, our voyagers saw, +thrown upon the shore, great quantities of iron sand, which is brought +down by every little rivulet of freshwater that finds its way from the +country. This is a demonstration, that there is ore of that metal not +far inland; and yet none of the inhabitants of New Zealand, who had +yet been seen, knew the use of iron, or set upon it the least degree +of value. They had all of them preferred the most worthless and +useless trifle not only to a nail, but to any tool of that metal. +Before the Endeavour left the bay, the ship's name and that of the +commander were cut upon one of the trees near the watering place, +together with the date of the year and month when our navigators were +there. Besides this, Mr. Cook, after displaying the English colours +took formal possession of the place in the name of his Britannic +Majesty, King George the Third. + +In the range from Mercury Bay, several canoes, on the 18th, put off +from different places, and advanced towards the Endeavour. When two of +them, in which there might be about sixty men, came within the reach +of the human voice, the Indians sung their war song, but seeing that +little notice was taken of them, they threw a few stones at the +English, and then rowed off towards the shore. In a short time, +however, they returned, as if with a fixed resolution to provoke our +voyagers to a battle, animating themselves by their song as they had +done before. Tupia, without any directions from the gentlemen of the +Endeavour, began to expostulate with the natives, and told them that +our people had weapons which could destroy them in a moment. Their +answer to this expostulation was, in their own language, 'Come on +shore, and we will kill you all.'--'Well,' replied Tupia, 'but why +should you molest us while we are at sea? As we do not wish to fight, +we shall not accept your challenge to come on shore; and here there is +no pretence for a quarrel, the sea being no more your property than +the ship.' This eloquence, which greatly surprised Lieutenant Cook and +his friends, as they had not suggested to Tupia any of the arguments +he made use of, produced no effect upon the minds of the Indians, who +soon renewed their attack. The oratory of a musket, which was fired +through one of their boats, quelled their courage, and sent them +instantly away. + +While our commander was in the Bay of Islands, he had a favourable +opportunity of examining the interior part of the country and its +produce. At daybreak, therefore on the 30th of the month, he set out +in the pinnace and long-boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, +and Tupia, and found the inlet, at which they entered, end in a river, +about nine miles above the ship. Up this river, to which was given the +name of the Thames, they proceeded till near noon, when they were +fourteen miles within its entrance. As the gentlemen then found the +face of the country to continue nearly the same, without any +alteration in the course of the stream, and had no hope of tracing it +to its source, they landed on the west side, to take a view of the +lofty trees which every where adorned its banks. The trees were of a +kind which they had seen before, both in Poverty Bay, and Hawke's Bay, +though only at a distance. They had not walked a hundred yards into +the woods, when they met with one of the trees, which, at the height +of six feet above the ground, was nineteen feet eight inches in the +girt. Lieutenant Cook, having a quadrant with him, measured its height +from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-nine +feet. It was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in +proportion to its height; so that, in the lieutenant's judgment, there +must have been three hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it +exclusive of the branches. As the party advanced, they saw many other +trees, which were still larger. A young one they cut down, the wood of +which was heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make +the finest plank in the world. The carpenter of the ship, who was with +the party, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch-pine, +which is lightened by tapping. If it should appear, that some such +method would be successful in lightening these trees, they would then +furnish masts superior to those of any country in Europe. As the wood +was swampy, the gentlemen could not range far; but they found many +stout trees of other kinds, with which they were totally unacquainted, +and specimens of which they brought away. + +On the 22d, another instance occurred in which the commanding officer +left on board did not know how to exercise his power with the good +sense and moderation of Mr. Cook. While some of the natives were in +the ship below with Mr. Banks, a young man, who was upon the deck, +stole a half minute glass, and was detected just as he was carrying it +off. Mr. Hicks, in his indignation against the offender, was pleased +to order that he should be punished, by giving him twelve lashes with +a cat o' nine tails. When the other Indians, who were on board, saw +him seized for the purpose, they attempted to rescue him; and being +resisted, they called for their arms, which were handed from the +canoes. At the same time, the people of one of the canoes attempted to +come up the side of the Endeavour. The tumult having called up Mr. +Banks and Tupia, the natives ran to the latter, and solicited his +interposition. All, however, which he could do, as Mr. hicks continued +inexorable, was to assure them, that nothing was intended against the +life of their companion, and that it was necessary that he should +suffer some punishment for his offence. With this explanation they +appeared to be satisfied; and when the punishment had been inflicted, +an old man among the spectators, who was supposed to be the criminal's +father, gave him a severe beating, and sent him down into his canoe. +Notwithstanding this, the Indians were far from being reconciled to +the treatment which their countryman had received. Their cheerful +confidence was gone; and though they promised, at their departure, to +return with some fish, the English saw them no more. + +On the 29th of November, Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and +others with them, were in a situation somewhat critical and alarming. +Having landed upon an island in the neighbourhood of Cape Bret, they +were in a few minutes surrounded by two or three hundred people. +Though the Indians were all armed, they came on in so confused and +straggling a manner, that it did not appear that any injury was +intended by them; and the English gentlemen were determined that +hostilities should not begin on their part. At first the natives +continued quiet; but their weapons were held ready to strike, and they +seemed to be rather irresolute than peaceable. While the lieutenant +and his friends remained in a state of suspense, another party of +Indians came up; and the boldness of the whole body being increased by +the augmentation of their numbers, they began the dance and song, +which are their preludes to a battle. An attempt, that was made by a +number of them, to seize the two boats which had brought our voyagers +to land, appeared to be the signal for a general attack. It now became +necessary for Mr. Cook to exert himself with vigour Accordingly, he +discharged his musket, which was loaded with small shot, at one of the +forwardest of the assailants, and Mr. Banks, and two of our men, fired +immediately afterwards. Though this made the natives fall back in some +confusion, nevertheless, one of the chiefs, who was at the distance of +about twenty yards, had the courage to rally them, and, calling loudly +to his companions, led them on to the charge. Dr. Solander instantly +discharged his piece at this champion, who, upon feeling the shot, +stopped short, and then ran away with the rest of his countrymen. +Still, however, they did not disperse, but got upon rising ground, and +seemed only to want some leader of resolution to renew their assault. +As they were now gotten beyond the reach of small shot, the English +fired with ball, none of which taking place, the Indians continued +together in a body. While our people were in this doubtful situation, +which lasted about a quarter of an hour, the ship, from which a much +greater number of natives were seen than could be discovered on shore, +brought her broad side to bear, and entirely dispersed them, by firing +a few shot over their heads. In this skirmish, only two of them were +hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost; a case which +would not have happened if Lieutenant Cook had not restrained his men, +who either from fear or the love of mischief, shewed as much +impatience to destroy the Indians, as a sportsman to kill his game. +Such was the difference between the disposition of the common seamen +and marines, and that of their humane and judicious commander. + +On the same day Mr. Cook displayed a very exemplary act of discipline. +Some of the ship's people, who when the natives were to be punished +for a fraud, assumed the inexorable justice of a Lycurgus, thought fit +to break into one of their plantations, and to dig up a quantity of +potatoes. For this the lieutenant ordered each of them to receive +twelve lashes, after which two of them were discharged. But the third, +in a singular strain of morality, insisted upon it, that it was no +crime in an Englishman to plunder an Indian plantation. The method +taken by our commander to refute his casuistry, was to send him back +to his confinement, and not, permit him to be released, till he had +been punished with six lashes more. + +The Endeavour, on the 5th of December, was in the most imminent hazard +of being wrecked. At four o'clock in the morning of that day our +voyagers weighed, with a light breeze; but it being variable with +frequent calms, they made little way. From that time till the +afternoon they kept turning out of the bay, and about ten at night +were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship could neither wear nor +exactly keep her station. The tide or current setting strong, she +drove toward land so fast; that before any measures could be taken for +her security, she was within a cable's length of the breakers. Though +our people had thirteen fathom water, the ground was so foul, that +they did not dare to drop their anchor. In this crisis the pinnace +being immediately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, and the men +sensible of their danger, exerted themselves to the utmost, a faint +breeze sprang up off the land, and our navigators perceived, with +unspeakable joy, that the vessel made headway. So near was she to the +shore, that Tupia, who was ignorant of the hair's breadth escape the +company had experienced, was at this very time conversing with the +Indians upon the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, +notwithstanding the roar of the breakers. Mr. Cook and his friends now +thought that all danger was over; but about an hour afterwards, just +as the man in the chains had cried 'seventeen fathom,' the ship +struck. The shock threw them into the utmost consternation: and almost +instantly the man in the chains cried out 'five fathom.' By this time, +the rock on which the ship had struck being to the windward, she went +off without having received the least damage; and the water very soon +deepening to twenty fathoms, she again sailed in security. + +The inhabitants in the Bay of Islands were found to be far more +numerous than in any other part of New Zealand which Lieutenant Cook +had hitherto visited. It did not appear that they were united under +one head; and, though their towns were fortified, they seemed to live +together in perfect amity. + +The Endeavour on the 9th of December, lying becalmed in Doubtless Bay, +an opportunity was taken to inquire of the natives concerning their +country; and our navigators learned from them, by the help of Tupia, +that at the distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, at a place +called Moore-Whennua, the land would take a short turn to the +southward, and thence extend no more to the west. This place the +English gentlemen concluded to be the land discovered by Tasman, and +which had been named by him Cape Maria van Diemen. The lieutenant, +finding the inhabitants so intelligent, inquired further, if they knew +of any country besides their own. To this they answered, that they had +never visited any other; but that their ancestors had told them, that +there was a country of great extent, to the north-west by north, or +north-north west, called Ulimaroa, to which some people had sailed in +a very large canoe; and that only a part of them had returned, who +reported, that, after a passage of a month, they had seen a country +where the people eat hogs. + +On the 30th of December, our navigators saw the land, which they +judged to be Cape Maria van Diemen, and which corresponded with the +account that had been given of it by the Indians. The next day, from +the appearance of Mount Camel, they had a demonstration that, where +they now were, the breadth of New Zealand could not be more than two +or three miles from sea to sea. During this part of the navigation, +two particulars occurred which are very remarkable. In latitude 35° S. +and in the midst of summer, Lieutenant Cook met with a gale of wind, +which, from its strength and continuance, was such as he had scarcely +ever been in before: and he was three weeks in getting ten leagues to +the westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues; for at this +time being the 1st of January, 1770, it was so long since he had +passed Cape Bret. While the gale lasted, our voyagers ware happily at +a considerable distance from the land; since, otherwise, it was highly +probable that they would never have returned to relate their +adventures. + +The shore at Queen Charlotte's Sound, where the English had arrived on +the 14th of January, seemed to form several bays, into one of which +the lieutenant proposed to carry the ship, which was now become very +foul, in order to careen her, to repair some defects, and to obtain a +recruit of wood and water. At day-break, the next morning, he stood in +for an inlet, and at eight got within the entrance. At nine o'clock, +there being little wind, and what there was being variable, the +Endeavour was carried by the tide or current within two cables' length +of the north-west shore where she had fifty-four fathom water. By the +help, of the boats she was gotten clear; and about two, our people +anchored in a very safe and convenient cove. Soon after, Mr. Cook, +with most of the gentlemen, landed upon the coast, where they found a +fine stream of excellent water, and wood in the greatest plenty. +Indeed the land, in this part of the country, was one forest, of vast +extent. As the gentlemen had brought the seine with them, it was +hauled once or twice; and with such success, that different sorts of +fish were caught amounting nearly to three hundred weight. The equal +distribution of these among the ship's company, furnished them with a +very agreeable refreshment. + +When Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and some others, +landed on the 16th, they met with an Indian family, among whom they +found horrid and indisputable proofs of the custom of eating human +flesh. Not to resume so disagreeable a subject, it may here be +observed once for all, that evidences of the same custom appeared on +various occasions. + +On the next day a delightful object engaged the attention of our +voyagers. The ship lying at the distance of somewhat less than a +quarter of a mile from the shore, they were awakened by the singing of +an incredible number of birds, who seemed to strain their throats in +emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely superior to +any they had ever heard of the same kind, and seemed to be like small +bells, most exquisitely tuned. It is probable, that the distance, and +the water between, might be of no small advantage to the sound. Upon +inquiry, the gentlemen were informed, that the birds here always began +to sing about two hours after midnight; and that, continuing their +music till sunrise, they were silent the rest of the day. In this last +respect they resembled the nightingales of our own country. + +On the 18th, Lieutenant Cook went out in the pinnace to take a view of +the bay in which the ship was now at anchor; and found it to be of +great extent, consisting of numberless small harbours and coves, in +every direction. The lieutenant confined his excursion to the western +side, and the coast where he landed being an impenetrable forest, +nothing could be seen worthy of notice. As our commander and his +friends were returning, they saw a single man in a canoe fishing: +rowing up to him, to their great surprise, he took not the least +notice of them; and even when they were alongside of him, continued to +follow his occupation, without adverting to them any more than if they +had been invisible. This behaviour was not, however the result either +of sullenness or stupidity; for upon being requested to draw up his +net, that it might be examined, he readily complied. He shewed +likewise to our people his mode of fishing, which was simple and +ingenious. + +When, on the 19th, the armourer's forge was set up, and all hands on +board were busy in careening, and in other necessary operations about +the vessel, some Indians, who had brought plenty of fish, exchanged +them for nails, of which they had now begun to perceive the use and +value. This may be considered as one instance in which they were +enlightened and benefited by their intercourse with our navigators. + +While, on the 22d, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander employed themselves in +botanizing near the beach, our commander, taking a seaman with him, +ascended one of the hills of the country. Upon reaching its summit, he +found the view of the inlet, the head of which he had a little before +in vain attempted to discover in the pinnace, intercepted by hills +still higher than that on which he stood, and which were rendered +inaccessible by impenetrable woods. He was, however, amply rewarded +for his labour; for he saw the sea on the eastern side of the country, +and a passage leading from it to that on the west, a little to the +eastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship lay. The main +land, which was on the south-east side of this inlet, appeared to be a +narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the south-west +side of the strait. On the opposite side, the land trended away east +as far as the eye could reach; and to the south-east there was +discerned an opening to the sea, which washes the eastern coast. The +lieutenant saw also, on the east side of the inlet, some islands which +he had before taken to be part of the main land. In returning to the +ship, he examined the harbours and coves that lie behind the islands +which he had seen from the hills. The next day was employed by him in +further surveys and discoveries. + +During a visit to the Indians, on the 24th, Tupia being of the party, +they were observed to be continually talking of guns and shooting +people. For this subject of their conversation, the English gentlemen +could not at all account. But, after perplexing themselves with +various conjectures, they at length learned, that, on the 21st, one of +our officers, under the pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up to +a hippah, or village, on the coast. When he had done so, two or three +canoes coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested that an attack +was intended, in consequence of which three muskets were fired, one +with small shot, and two with ball, at the Indians, who retired with +the utmost precipitation. It is highly probable, that they had come +out with friendly intentions, for such intentions were expressed by +their behaviour, both before and afterwards. This action of the +officer exhibited a fresh instance, how little some of the people +under Lieutenant Cook had imbibed of the wise, discreet, and humane +spirit of their commander. + +On the morning of the 26th, the lieutenant went again out in the boat, +with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and entered one of the bays, which +lie on the east side of the inlet, in order to obtain another sight of +the strait which passed between the eastern and western seas. Having +landed, for this purpose, at a convenient place, they climbed a hill +of very considerable height, from which they had a full view of the +strait, with the land on the opposite shore, which they judged to be +about four leagues distant. As it was hazy in the horizon, they could +not see far to the south-east; but Mr. Cook saw enough to determine +him to search the passage with the ship as soon as he should put to +sea. The gentlemen found, on the top of the hill, a parcel of loose +stones, with which they erected a pyramid, and left in it some musket +balls, small shot, beads, and such other things, which they happened +to have about them, as were likely to stand the test of time. These, +not being of Indian workmanship, would convince any European, who +should come to the place and pull it down, that natives of Europe had +been there before. After this, the lieutenant and his friends went to +a town of which the Indians had informed them, and which, like one +they had already seen, was built upon a small island or rock, so +difficult of access, that they gratified their curiosity at the risk +of their lives. Here, as had been the case in former visits to the +inhabitants of that part of the country near which the ship now lay, +they were received with open arms, carried through the whole of the +place, and shown all that it contained. The town consisted of between +eighty and a hundred houses, and had only one fighting stage. Mr. +Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, happened to have with them a few +nails and ribands, and some paper, with which the people were so +highly gratified, that when the gentlemen went away, they filled the +English boat with dried fish, of which it appeared that they had laid +up large quantities. + +A report was spread, that one of the men, that had been so rashly +fired upon by the officer who had visited the hippah, under the +pretence of fishing, was dead of his wounds. But, on the 29th, the +lieutenant had the great consolation of discovering that this report +was groundless. On the same day he went again on shore, upon the +western point of the inlet, and, from a hill of considerable height, +had a view of the coast to the north-west. The furthest land he could +see, in that quarter, was an island at the distance of about ten +leagues, lying not far from the main. Between this island and the +place were he stood, he discovered, close under the shore, several +other islands, forming many bays, in which there appeared to be good +anchorage for shipping. After he had set off the different points for +his survey, he erected another pile of stones, in which he left a +piece of silver coin, with some musket balls and beads, and a fragment +of an old pendant flying at the top. + +On the 30th of January, the ceremony was performed of giving name to +the inlet where our voyagers now lay, and of erecting a memorial of +the visit which they had made to this place. The carpenter having +prepared two posts for the purpose, our commander ordered them to be +inscribed with the ship's name, and the dates of the year and the +month. One of these he set up at the watering place, hoisting the +union-flag upon the top of it; and the other he carried over to the +island that lies nearest the sea, and which is called by the natives +Motuara. He went first, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and Tupia, to the +neighbouring village, or hippah, where he met with an old man, who had +maintained a friendly intercourse with the English. To this old man, +and several Indians besides, the lieutenant, by means of Tupia, +explained his design, which, he informed them, was to erect a mark +upon the island, in order to shew to any other ship, which should +happen to come thither, that our navigators had been there before. To +this the inhabitants readily consented, and promised that they would +never pull it down. He then gave something to every one present, and +to the old man a silver threepence, and some spike-nails, with the +king's broad arrow cut deep upon them. These were things which Mr. +Cook thought were the most likely to be long preserved. After this, he +conveyed the post to the highest part of the island; and, having fixed +it firmly in the ground, hoisted upon it the union flag, and honoured +the inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound. At the same time, +he took formal possession of this and the adjacent country, in the +name and for the use of his Majesty King George the Third. The +ceremony was concluded by the gentlemen's drinking a bottle of wine to +her majesty's health; and the bottle being given to the old man, who +had attended them up the hill, he was highly delighted with his +present. + +A philosopher, perhaps might inquire on what ground Lieutenant Cook +could take formal possession of this part of New Zealand, in the name +and _for the use_ of the King of Great Britain, when the country +was already inhabited, and of course belonged to those by whom it was +occupied, and whose ancestors might have resided in it for many +preceding ages. To this the best answer seems to be, that the +lieutenant, in the ceremony performed by him, had no reference to the +original inhabitants, or any intention to deprive them of their +natural rights, but only to preclude the claims of future European +navigators, who, under the auspices and for the benefit of their +respective states or kingdoms, might form pretensions, to which they +were not entitled by prior discovery. + +On the 31st, our voyagers having completed their wooding, and filled +their water casks, Mr. Cook sent out two parties, one to cut and make +brooms, and another to catch fish. In the evening there was a strong +gale from the north-west, with such a heavy rain, that the little wild +musicians on shore suspended their song, which till now had been +constantly heard during the night with a pleasure that it was +impossible to lose without regret. The gale, on the 1st of February, +increased to a storm, with heavy gusts from the high land, one of +which broke the hawser, that had been fastened to the shore, and +induced the necessity of letting go another anchor. Though, towards +midnight, the gale became more moderate, the rain continued with so +much violence, that the brook, which supplied the ship with water, +overflowed its banks; in consequence of which ten small casks, that +had been filled the day before, were carried away, and, +notwithstanding the most diligent search for them, could not be +recovered. + +The Endeavour, on Monday the 5th, got under sail; but the wind soon +failing, our commander was obliged again to come to anchor, a little +above Motuara. As he was desirous of making still further inquiries, +whether any memory of Tasman had been preserved in New Zealand, he +directed Tupia to ask of the old man before mentioned, who had come on +board to take his leave of the English gentlemen, whether he had ever +heard that such a vessel as theirs had before visited the country. To +this he replied in the negative; but said, that his ancestors had told +him, that there once had arrived a small vessel from a distant land, +called Ulimaroa, in which were four men, who upon their reaching the +shore were all killed. On being asked where this country lay, he +pointed to the northward. Of Ulimaroa, Lieutenant Cook had heard +something before, from the people about the Bay of Islands, who said, +that it had been visited by their ancestors. Tupia had also some +confused traditionary notions concerning it; but no certain conclusion +could be drawn either from his account or that of the old Indian. + +Soon after the ship came to anchor the second time, Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander, who had gone on shore to see if any gleanings of natural +knowledge remained, fell in, by accident, with the most agreeable +Indian family they had yet seen, and which afforded them a better +opportunity of remarking the personal subordination among the natives, +than had before offered. The whole behaviour of this family was +affable, obliging, and unsuspicious. It was matter of sincere regret +to the two gentlemen, that they had not sooner met with these people, +as a better acquaintance with the manners and disposition of the +inhabitants of the country might hence have been obtained in a day, +than had been acquired during the whole stay of the English upon the +coast. + +When, on the 6th of February, Lieutenant Cook had gotten out of the +sound, he stood over to the eastward, in order to get the strait well +open before the tide of ebb approached. At seven in the evening, two +small islands, which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the south-east head of +Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore east, at the distance of about four +miles. It was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out, the +Endeavour, in a very short time, was carried by the rapidity of the +stream close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising almost +perpendicularly out of the sea. The danger increased every moment, and +there was but one expedient to prevent the ship's being dashed to +pieces, the success of which a few moments would determine. She was +now within little more than a cable's length of the rock, and had +above seventy-five fathom water. But, upon dropping an anchor, and +veering above one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, she was happily +brought up. This, however would not have saved our navigators, if the +tide, which set south by east, had not, upon meeting with the island, +changed its direction to the south-east, and carried them beyond the +first point. In this situation they were not above two cables' length +from the rocks; and here they remained in the strength of the tide, +which set to the south-east, after the rate of at least five miles an +hour from a little after seven till midnight, when the tide abated, +and the vessel began to heave. By three in the morning, a light breeze +at north-west having sprung up, our voyagers sailed for the eastern +shore; though they made but little way, in consequence of the tide +being against them. The wind, however, having afterwards freshened, +and come to north and north-east, with this, and the tide of ebb, they +were in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the strait, +and then stood away for the southernmost land they had in prospect. +There appeared, over this land, a mountain of stupendous height, which +was covered with snow. The narrowest part of the strait, through which +the Endeavour had been driven with such rapidity, lies between Cape +Tierawitte, on the coast of Eaheinomauwe, and Cape Koamaroo; the +distance between which our commander judged to be four or five +leagues. Notwithstanding the difficulties arising from this tide, now +its strength is known, the strait may be passed without danger. + +Some of the officers started a notion, that Eaheinomauwe was not an +island, and that the land might stretch away to the south-east, from +between Cape Turnagain and Cape Palliser, there being a space of +between twelve and fifteen leagues which had not yet been seen. Though +Lieutenant Cook, from what he had observed the first time he +discovered the strait, and from many other concurrent circumstances, +had the strongest conviction that they were mistaken, he, +nevertheless, resolved to leave no possibility of doubt with respect +to an object of so much importance. For this purpose he gave such a +direction to the navigation of the ship, as would most effectually +tend to determine the matter. After a course of two days he called the +officers upon deck, and asked them, whether they were not now +satisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. To this question they +readily answered in the affirmative; and all doubts being removed, the +lieutenant proceeded to farther researches. + +During Mr. Cook's long and minute examination of the coast of New +Zealand, he gave names to the bays, capes, promontories, islands, and +rivers, and other places which were seen or visited by him; excepting +in those cases where their original appellations were learned from the +natives. The names he fixed upon were either derived from certain +characteristic or adventitious circumstances, or were conferred in +honour of his friends and acquaintance, chiefly those of the naval +line. Such of the readers of the present work as desire to be +particularly informed concerning them, will naturally have recourse to +the indications of them in the several maps on which they are +described. + +The ascertaining of New Zealand to be an island did not conclude +Lieutenant Cook's examination of the nature, situation, and extent of +the country. After this, he completed his circumnavigation, by ranging +from Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern coast of Poenammoo, +round Cape South, and back to the western entrance of the strait be +had passed, and which was very properly named Cook's Strait. This +range, which commenced on the 9th of February, I shall not minutely +and regularly pursue; but content myself, as in the former course, +with mentioning such circumstances as are more directly adapted to my +immediate design. + +In the afternoon of the 14th, when Mr. Banks was out in the boat a +shooting, our voyagers saw, with their glasses, four double canoes put +off from the shore towards him, having on board fifty-seven men. The +lieutenant, being alarmed for the safety of his friend, immediately +ordered signals to be made for his return; but he was prevented from +seeing them by the situation of the gun with regard to the ship. +However, it was soon with pleasure observed, that his boat was in +motion; and he was taken on board before the Indians, who perhaps had +not discerned him, came up. Their attention seemed to be wholly fixed +upon the ship. They came within about a stone's cast of her, and then +stopped, gazing at the English with a look of vacant astonishment. +Tupia in vain exerted his eloquence to prevail upon them to make a +nearer approach. After surveying our navigators some time, they left +them, and made towards the shore. The gentlemen could not help +remarking, on this occasion, the different dispositions and behaviour +of the different inhabitants of the country, at the first sight of the +Endeavour. The people now seen kept aloof with a mixture of timidity +and wonder; others had immediately commenced hostilities; the man who +was found fishing alone in his canoe appeared to regard our voyagers +as totally unworthy of notice; and some had come on board almost +without invitation, and with an air of perfect confidence and good +will. From the conduct of the last visitors, Lieutenant Cook gave the +land from which they had put off, and which had the appearance of an +island, the name of Lookers-on. + +When an island, which lies about five leagues from the coast of +Tovy-Poenammoo, and which was named Banks's Island, was first +discovered in the direction of south by west, some persons on board +were of opinion, that they saw land bearing south-south-east, and +south-east by east. Our commander, who was himself upon the deck at +the time, told them that in his judgment it was no more than a cloud, +which, as the sun rose, would dissipate and vanish. Being, however +determined to leave no subject for disputation which experiment could +remove, he ordered the ship to steer in the direction which the +supposed country was said to bear. Having gone in this direction eight +and twenty miles, without discovering any signs of land, the Endeavour +resumed her intended course to the southward, it being the particular +view of the lieutenant to ascertain whether Poenammoo was an island or +a continent. + +In passing some rocks on the 9th of March, in the night, it appeared +in the morning that the ship had been in the most imminent danger. Her +escape was indeed critical in the highest degree. To these rocks, +therefore, which, from their situation, are so well adapted to catch +unwary strangers, Mr. Cook gave the name of the Traps. On the same day +he reached a point of land which he called the South Cape, and which +he supposed, as proved in fact to be the case, the southern extremity +of the country. + +In sailing, on Wednesday the 14th, the Endeavour passed a small narrow +opening in the land, where there seemed to be a very safe and +convenient harbour, formed by an island which lay eastward in the +middle of the opening. On the land, behind the opening, are mountains, +the summits of which were covered with snow, that appeared to have +recently fallen. Indeed our voyagers for two days past, had found the +weather extremely cold. On each side the entrance of the opening, the +land rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a stupendous height. +For this reason Lieutenant Cook did not choose to carry the ship into +the harbour. He was sensible that no wind could blow there but right +in or right out: and he did not think it by any means advisable to put +into a place whence he could not have gotten out, but with a wind, +which, experience had taught him did not blow more than one day in a +month. Sagacious as this determination of our commander was, it did +not give universal satisfaction. He acted in it contrary to the +opinion of some persons on board, who expressed in strong terms their +desire of coming to harbour; not sufficiently considering, that +present convenience ought not to be purchased at the expense of +incurring great future disadvantages. + +By the 27th of March, Mr. Cook had circumnavigated the whole country +of Tovy-Poenammoo, and arrived within sight of the island formerly +mentioned, which lies at the distance of nine leagues from the +entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having at this time thirty tons +of empty water-casks on board, it was necessary to fill them before he +finally proceeded on his voyage. For this purpose he hauled round the +island, and entered a bay, situated between that and Queen Charlotte's +Sound, and to which the name was given of Admiralty Bay. + +The business of wooding and watering having been completed on the +30th, and the ship being ready for the sea, the point now to be +determined was, what rout should be pursued in returning home, that +would be of most advantage to the public service. Upon this subject +the lieutenant thought proper to take the opinion of his officers. He +had himself a strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that would +have enabled him to determine, whether there is or is not a southern +continent. But against this scheme it was a sufficient objection, that +our navigators must have kept in a high southern latitude, in the very +depth of winter, and in a vessel which was not thought to be in a +condition fit for the undertaking. The same reason was urged with +still greater force, against their proceeding directly for the Cape of +Good Hope, because no discovery of moment could be expected in that +rout. It was therefore resolved that they should return by the East +Indies; and that, with this view, they should steer westward, till +they should fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then +follow the direction of that coast to the northward, till they should +arrive at its northern extremity. If that should be found +impracticable, it was further resolved, that they should endeavour to +fall in with the land, or islands, said to have been discovered by +Quiros. + +In the six months which Lieutenant Cook had spent in the examination +of New Zealand, he made very large additions to the knowledge of +geography and navigation. That country was first discovered in the +year 1642, by Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutch navigator. He traversed the +eastern coast from latitude 34° 43', and entered the strait now called +Cook's Strait; but being attacked by the natives soon after he came to +an anchor, in the place which he named Murderer's Bay, he never went +on shore. Nevertheless, he assumed a kind of claim of the country, by +calling it Staaten Land, or the Land of the States, in honour of the +States General. It is now usually distinguished in maps and charts by +the name of New Zealand. The whole of the country, excepting that part +of the coast which was seen by Tasman from on board his ship, +continued from his time, to the voyage of the Endeavour, altogether +unknown. By many persons it has been supposed to constitute a part of +a southern continent; but it was now ascertained by Mr. Cook to +consist of two large islands, divided from each other by a strait or +passage, which is about four or five leagues broad. These islands are +situated between the latitudes of 34° and 48° south, and between the +longitudes of 181° and 194° west; a matter which Mr. Green determined +with uncommon exactness, from innumerable observations of the sun and +moon, and one of the transits of Mercury. The northernmost of these +islands is called by the natives Eaheinomauwe, and the southernmost +Tovy, or Tavai Poenammoo. It is not, however, certain, whether the +whole southern island, or only part of it, is comprehended under the +latter name. + +Tovy Poenammoo is principally a mountainous, and to all appearance a +barren country. The only inhabitants and signs of inhabitants that +were discovered upon all the islands, were the people whom our +voyagers saw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, some that came off to them +under the snowy mountains, and several fires which were discerned to +the west of Cape Saunders. Eaheinomauwe has a much better appearance. +Though it is not only hilly but mountainous, even the hills and +mountains are covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet of +water. The soil in these valleys and in the plains, many of which are +not overgrown with wood, is in general light, but fertile. It was the +opinion of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, as well as of the other +gentlemen on board, that all kinds of European grain, plants, and +fruit would flourish here in the utmost luxuriance. There is reason to +conclude, from the vegetables which our navigators found in +Eaheinomauwe, that the winters are milder than those in England; and +the summer was experienced not to be hotter, though it was more +equally warm. If this country, therefore, should be settled by people +from Europe, they might, with a little industry, very soon be supplied +in great abundance, not merely with the necessaries, but even with the +luxuries of life. + +In Eaheinomauwe there are no quadrupeds but dogs and rats. At least, +no other were seen by our voyagers; and the rats are so scarce that +they wholly escaped the notice of many on board. Of birds the species +are not numerous; and of these no one kind, excepting perhaps the +gannet, is exactly the same with those of Europe. Insects are not in +greater plenty than birds. The sea makes abundant recompense for this +scarcity of animals upon the land. Every creek swarms with fish, which +are not only wholesome, but equally delicious with those in our part +of the world. The Endeavour seldom anchored in any station, or with a +light gale passed any place, that did not afford enough, with hook and +line, to serve the whole ship's company. If the seine were made use of +it seldom failed of producing a still more ample supply. The highest +luxury of this kind, with which the English were gratified was the +lobster, or sea cray-fish. Among the vegetable productions of the +country, the trees claim a principal place; there being forests of +vast extent full of the straightest, the cleanest, and the largest +timber Mr. Cook and his friends had ever seen. Mr. Banks and Dr. +Solander were gratified by the novelty, if not by the variety of the +plants. Out of about four hundred species, there were not many which +had hitherto been described by botanists. There is one plant that +serves the natives instead of hemp and flax, and which excels all that +are applied to the same purposes in other countries. + +If the settling of New Zealand should ever be deemed an object +deserving the attention of Great Britain, our commander thought that +the best place for establishing a colony would either be on the banks +of the Thames, or in the territory adjoining to the Bay of Islands. +Each of these places possess the advantage of an excellent harbour. By +means of the river, settlements might be extended, and a communication +established with the inland parts of the country. Vessels might +likewise be built of the fine timber which is every where to be met +with, at very little trouble and expense. + +But I am in danger of forgetting myself, and of running into a detail +which may be thought rather to exceed the intentions of the present +narrative. It is difficult to restrain the pen, when such a variety of +curious and entertaining matter lies before it; and I must entreat the +indulgence of my readers while I mention two or three further +particulars. One circumstance peculiarly worthy of notice, is the +perfect and uninterrupted health of the inhabitants of New Zealand. In +all the visits made to their towns, where old and young, men and +women, crowded about our voyagers, they never observed a single person +who appeared to have any bodily complaint; nor among the numbers that +were seen naked, was once perceived the slightest eruption upon the +skin, or the least mark which indicated that such an eruption had, +formerly existed. Another proof of the health of these people is the +facility with which the wounds they at any time receive are healed. In +the man who had been shot with a musket ball through the fleshy part +of his arm, the wound seemed to be so well digested, and in so fair a +way of being perfectly healed, that if Mr. Cook had not known that no +application had been made to it, he declared that he certainly should +have inquired, with a very interested curiosity, after the vulnerary +herbs and surgical art of the country. An additional evidence of human +nature's being untainted with disease in New Zealand, is the great +number of old men with whom it abounds. Many of them, by the loss of +their hair and teeth, appeared to be very ancient and yet none of them +were decrepid. Although they were not equal to the young in muscular +strength, they did not come in the least behind them with regard to +cheerfulness and vivacity. Water, as far as our navigators could +discover, is the universal and only liquor of the New Zealanders. It +is greatly to be wished, that their happiness in this respect may +never be destroyed by such a connexion with the European nations, as +shall introduce that fondness for spirituous liquors, which hath been +so fatal to the Indians of North America. + +From the observations which Lieutenant Cook and his friends made on +the people of New Zealand, and from the similitude which was discerned +between them and the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, a strong +proof arose, that both of them had one common origin; and this proof +was rendered indubitable by the conformity of their language. When +Tupia addressed himself to the natives of Eaheinomauwe and Poenammoo, +he was perfectly understood. Indeed it did not appear that the +language of Otaheite differed more from that of New Zealand, than the +language of the two islands into which it is divided, did from each +other. + +Hitherto the navigation of Lieutenant Cook had been unfavourable to +the notion of a southern continent; having swept away at least +three-fourths of the positions upon which that notion had been +founded. The track of the Endeavour had demonstrated, that the land +seen by Tasman, Juan Fernandes, Hermite, the commander of a Dutch +squadron, Quiros, and Roggewein, was not, as they had supposed, part +of such a continent. It had also totally destroyed the theoretical +arguments in favour of a southern continent, which had been drawn from +the necessity of it to preserve an equilibrium between the two +hemispheres. As, however, Mr. Cook's discoveries, so far as he had +already proceeded, extended only to the northward of forty degrees, +south latitude, he could not therefore give an opinion concerning what +land might lie farther to the southward. This was a matter, therefore, +which he earnestly wished to be examined; and to him at length was +reserved the honour, as we shall hereafter see, of putting a final end +to the question. + +On Saturday the 31st of March, our commander sailed from Cape Farewell +in New Zealand, and pursued his voyage to the westward. New Holland, +or as it is now called, New South Wales, came in sight on the 19th of +April; and on the 28th of that month the ship anchored in Botany Bay. +On the preceding day, in consequence of its falling calm when the +vessel was not more than a mile and a half from the shore and within +some breakers, our navigators had been in a very disagreeable +situation; but happily a light breeze had sprung from the land, and +carried them out of danger. + +In the afternoon the boats were manned; and Lieutenant Cook and his +friends, having Tupia of their party, set out from the Endeavour. They +intended to land where they had seen some Indians, and began to hope, +that as these Indians had paid no regard to the ship when she came +into the bay, they would be as inattentive to the advances of the +English towards the shore. In this, however, the gentlemen were +disappointed: for as soon as they approached the rocks, two of the men +came down upon them to dispute their landing, and the rest ran away. +These champions, who were armed with lances about ten feet long, +called to our navigators in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonant +language, of which even Tupia did not understand a single word. At the +same time, they brandished their weapons, and seemed resolved to +defend their coast to the utmost, though they were but two to forty. +The lieutenant, who could not but admire their courage, and who was +unwilling that hostilities should commence with such inequality of +force on their side, ordered his boat to lie upon her oars. He and the +other gentlemen then parlied with them by signs; and to obtain their +good-will, he threw them nails, beads, and several trifles besides, +with which they appeared to be well pleased. After this our commander +endeavoured to make them understand that he wanted water, and +attempted to convince them by all the methods in his power, that he +had no injurious designs against them. Being willing to interpret the +waving of their hands as an invitation to proceed, the boat put in to +the shore; but no sooner was this perceived, than it was opposed by +the two Indians, one of whom seemed to be a youth about nineteen or +twenty years old, and the other a man of middle age. The only measure +now left for Mr. Cook was to fire a musket between them which being +done, the youngest of them brought a bundle of lances on the rock, but +recollecting himself in an instant he snatched them up again in great +haste. A stone was then thrown at the English, upon which the +lieutenant ordered a musket to be fired with small shot. This struck +the eldest upon the legs, and he immediately ran to one of the houses, +which was at about a hundred yards distance. Mr. Cook, who now hoped +that the contest was over, instantly landed with his party; but they +had scarcely quitted the boat when the Indian returned, having only +left the rocks to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon as +he came up, he and his comrade threw each of them a lance in the midst +of our people, but happily without hurting a single person. At the +firing of a third musket, one of the two men darted another lance, and +then both of them ran away. After this the gentlemen repaired to the +huts, and threw into the house where the children were, some beads, +ribbons, pieces of cloth, and other presents. These they hoped would +procure them the good will of the inhabitants. When, however, the +lieutenant and his companions returned the next day, they had the +mortification of finding that the beads and ribbons, which they had +left the night before, had not been removed from their places, and +that not an Indian was to be seen. + +Several of the natives of the country came in sight on the 30th, but +they could not be engaged to begin an intercourse with our people. +They approached within a certain distance of them, and, after shouting +several times, went back into the woods. Having done this once more, +Mr. Cook followed them himself, alone and unarmed, a considerable way +along the shore, but without prevailing upon them to stop. + +On the 1st of May, he resolved to make an excursion into the country. +Accordingly, our commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and seven others, +all of them properly accoutred for the expedition, set out, and +repaired first to the huts near the watering-place, whither some of +the Indians continued every day to resort. Though the little presents +which had been left there before had not yet been taken away, our +gentlemen added others of still greater value, consisting of cloth, +beads, combs, and looking-glasses. After this they went up into the +country, the face of which is finely diversified by wood and lawn. The +soil they found to be either swamp or light sand.[6] + + [Footnote 6: In a part of the country that was afterwards + examined, the soil was found to be much richer; being a deep black + mould, which the lieutenant thought very fit for the production of + grain of any kind.] + +In cultivating the ground, there would be no obstruction from the +trees, which are tall, straight, and without underwood, and stand at a +sufficient distance from each other. Between the trees, the land is +abundantly covered with grass. Our voyagers saw many houses of the +inhabitants, but met with only one of the people, who ran away as soon +as he discovered the English. At every place where they went they left +presents, hoping that at length they might procure the confidence and +good will of the Indians. They perceived some traces of animals; and +the trees over their heads abounded with birds of various kinds, among +which were many of exquisite beauty. Loriquets and cockatoos, in +particular, were so numerous, that they flew in flocks of several +scores together. + +While the lieutenant and his friends were upon this excursion, Mr. +Gore, who had been sent out in the morning to dredge for oysters, +having performed that service, dismissed his boat, and taking a +midshipman with him, set out to join the waterers by land. In his way, +he fell in with a body of two and twenty Indians, who followed him, +and were often at no greater distance than that of twenty yards. When +he perceived them so near, he stopped, and faced about, upon which +they likewise stopped; and when he went on again, they continued their +pursuit. But though they were all armed with lances, they did not +attack Mr. Gore; so that he and the midshipman got in safety to the +watering-place. When the natives came in sight of the main body of the +English, they halted at about the distance of a quarter of a mile, and +stood still. By this Mr. Monkhouse and two or three of the waterers +were encouraged to march up to them; but seeing the Indians keep their +ground, they were seized with a sudden fear which is not uncommon to +the rash and foolhardy, and made a hasty retreat. This step increased +the danger which it was intended to avoid. Four of the Indians +immediately ran forwards, and discharged their lances at the +fugitives, with such force that they went beyond them. Our people +recovering their spirits, stopped to collect the lances, upon which +the natives, in their turn, began to retire. At this time Mr. Cook +came up, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia; and being desirous +of convincing the Indians that they were neither afraid of them, nor +designed to do them any injury, they advanced towards them, +endeavouring, by signs of expostulation and entreaty, to engage them +to an intercourse but without effect. + +From the boldness which the natives discovered on the first landing of +our voyagers, and the terror that afterward seized them at the sight +of the English, it appears that they were sufficiently intimidated by +our fire-arms. There was not indeed, the least reason to believe that +any of them had been much hurt by the small shot which had been fired +at them when they attacked our people on their coming out of the boat. +Nevertheless, they had probably seen from their lurking places, the +effects which the muskets had upon birds. Tupia, who was become a good +marksman, frequently strayed abroad to shoot parrots; and while he was +thus employed, he once met with nine Indians, who, as soon as they +perceived that he saw them, ran from him, in great alarm and +confusion. + +While on the 3rd of May, Mr. Banks was gathering plants near the +watering-place, Lieutenant Cook went with Dr. Solander and Mr. +Monkhouse, to the head of the bay, for the purpose of examining that +part of the country, and of making further attempts to form some +connexions with the natives. In this excursion they acquired +additional knowledge concerning the nature of the soil, and its +capacities for cultivation, but had no success in their endeavours to +engage the inhabitants in coming to a friendly intercourse. Several +parties, that were sent into the country, on the next day, with the +same view, were equally unsuccessful. In the afternoon our commander +himself, with a number of attendants, made an excursion to the north +shore, which he found to be without wood, and to resemble in some +degree, our moors in England. The surface of the ground was, however, +covered with a thin brush of plants, rising to about the height of the +knee. Near the coast, the hills are low, but there are others behind +them, which gradually ascend to a considerable distance, and are +intersected with marshes and morasses. Among the articles of fish +which, at different times were caught, were large stingrays. One of +them, when his entrails were taken out, weighed three hundred and +thirty-six pounds. + +It was upon account of the great quantity of plants which Mr. Banks +and Dr. Solander collected in this place, that Lieutenant Cook was +induced to give it the name of Botany Bay. It is situated in the +latitude of 34° south, and in the longitude of 208° 37' west; and +affords a capacious, safe, and convenient shelter for shipping. The +Endeavour anchored near the south shore, about a mile within the +entrance, for the convenience of sailing with a southerly wind, and +because the lieutenant thought it the best situation for watering. But +afterward he found a very fine stream on the north shore, where was a +sandy cove, in which a ship might lie almost land-locked, and procure +wood and water to the greatest abundance. Though wood is every where +plentiful our commander saw only two species of it that could be +considered as timber. Not only the inhabitants who were first +discovered, but all who afterward came in sight, were entirely naked. +Of their mode of life, our voyagers could know but little, as not the +least connexion could be formed with them; but it did not appear that +they were numerous, or that they lived in societies. They seemed, like +other animals, to be scattered about along the coast, and in the +woods. Not a single article was touched by them of all that were left +at their huts, or at the places which they frequented; so little sense +had they of those small conveniences and ornaments, which are +generally very alluring to the uncivilized tribes of the globe. During +Mr. Cook's stay at this place, he caused the English colours to be +displayed every day on shore, and took care that the ship's name, and +the date of the year, should be inscribed upon one of the trees near +the watering-place. + +At day-break, on Sunday the 6th of May, our navigators sailed from +Botany Bay; and as they proceeded on their voyage, the lieutenant gave +the names that are indicated upon the map to the bays, capes, points, +and remarkable hills which successively appeared in sight. On the +14th, as the Endeavour advanced to the northward, being then in +latitude 30° 22' south, and longitude 206° 39' west, the land +gradually increased in height, so that it may be called a hilly +country. Between this latitude and Botany Bay, it exhibits a pleasing +variety of ridges, hills, valleys and plains, all clothed with wood, +of the same appearance with that which has been mentioned before. The +land near the shore is in general low and sandy, excepting the points, +which are rocky, and over many of which are high hills, that, at their +first rising out of the water, have the semblance of islands. On the +next day, the vessel being about a league from the shore, our voyagers +discovered smoke in many places, and having recourse to their glasses, +they saw about twenty of the natives, who had each of them a large +bundle upon his back. The bundles our people conjectured to be palm +leaves for covering the houses of the Indians, and continued to +observe them above an hour, during which they walked upon the beach, +and up a path that led over a hill of gentle ascent. It was +remarkable, that not one of them was seen to stop and look towards the +Endeavour. They marched along without the least apparent emotion +either of curiosity or surprise, though it was impossible that they +should not have discerned the ship, by some casual glance, as they +went along the shore, and though she must have been the most +stupendous and unaccountable object they had ever beheld. + +While on the 17th, our navigators were in a bay, to which Lieutenant +Cook had given the name of Moreton's Bay, and at a place were the land +was not at that time visible, some on board, having observed that the +sea looked paler than usual, were of opinion that the bottom of the +bay opened into a river. The lieutenant was sensible that there was no +real ground for this supposition. As the Endeavour had here +thirty-four fathom water, and a fine sandy bottom, these circumstances +alone were sufficient to produce the change which had been noticed in +the colour of the sea. Nor was it by any means necessary, to suppose a +river, in order to account for the land at the bottom of the bay not +being visible. If the land there was as low as it had been experienced +to be in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would be impossible to +see it from the station of the ship. Our commander would, however, +have brought the matter to the test of experiments, if the wind had +been favourable to such a purpose. Should any future navigator be +disposed to determine the question, whether there is or is not a river +in this place, Mr. Cook has taken care to leave the best directions +for finding its situation. + +On the 22nd, as our voyagers were pursuing their course from Harvey's +Bay, they discovered with their glasses that the land was covered with +palm-nut trees, which they had not seen from the time of their leaving +the islands within the tropic. They saw also two men walking along the +shore, who paid them as little attention, as they had met with on +former occasions. At eight o'clock in the evening of this day, the +ship came to an anchor in five fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. Early +in the morning of the next day, the lieutenant, accompanied by Mr. +Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, Tupia, and a party of men, +went on shore in order to examine the country. The wind blew fresh, +and the weather was so cold, that being at a considerable distance +from land, they took their cloaks as a necessary equipment for the +voyage. When they landed, they found a channel leading into a large +lagoon. Both the channel and the lagoon were examined by our commander +with his usual accuracy. There is in the place a small river of fresh +water, and room for a few ships to lie in great security. Near the +lagoon grows the true mangrove, such as exists in the West India +islands, and the first of the kind that had been yet met with by our +navigators. Among the shoals and sand banks of the coast, they saw +many large birds, and some in particular of the same kind which they +had seen in Botany Bay. These they judged to be pelicans, but they +were so shy as never to come within reach of a musket. On the shore +was found a species of the bustard, one of which was shot that was +equal in size to a turkey, weighing seventeen pounds and a half. All +the gentlemen agreed that this was the best bird they had eaten since +they left England; and in honour of it they called the inlet Bustard +Bay. Upon the mud banks, and under the mangroves, were innumerable +oysters of various kinds, and among others the hammer oyster, with a +large proportion of small pearl oysters. If in deeper water there +should be equal plenty of such oysters at their full growth, Mr. Cook +was of opinion that a pearl fishery might be established here to very +great advantage. + +The people who were left on board the ship asserted, that, while the +gentlemen were in the woods, about twenty of the natives came down to +the beach, abreast of the Endeavour, and, after having looked at her +for some time, went away. Not a single Indian was seen by the +gentlemen themselves, though they found various proofs, in smoke, +fires, and the fragments of recent meals, that the country was +inhabited. The place seemed to be much trodden, and yet not a house, +or the remains of a house, could be discerned. Hence the lieutenant +and his friends were disposed to believe, that the people were +destitute of dwellings, as well as of clothes; and that like the other +commoner of nature, they spent their nights in the open air. Tupia +himself was struck with their apparently unhappy condition; and +shaking his head, with an air of superiority and compassion, said that +they were taata enos, 'poor wretches.' + +On the 25th, our voyagers, at the distance of one mile from the land, +were abreast of a point, which Mr. Cook found to lie directly under +the tropic of Capricorn; and for this reason he called it Cape +Capricorn. In the night of the next day, when the ship had anchored at +a place which was distant four leagues from Cape Capricorn, the tide +rose and fell near seven feet; and the flood set to the westward, and +the ebb to the eastward. This circumstance was just the reverse of +what had been experienced when the Endeavour was at anchor to the +eastward of Bustard Bay. + +While our people were under sail, on the 26th, and were surrounded +with islands, which lay at different distance from the main land, they +suddenly fell into three fathom of water. Upon this the lieutenant +anchored, and sent away the master to sound a channel, which lay +between the northernmost island and the main. Though the channel +appeared to have a considerable breadth, our commander suspected it to +be shallow, and such was in fact the case. The master reported, at his +return, that he had only two fathom and a half in many places; and +where the vessel lay at anchor, she had only sixteen feet, which was +not two feet more than she drew. Mr. Banks who, while the master was +sounding the channel, tried to fish from the cabin window with hook +and line, was successful in catching two sort of crabs, both of them +such as our navigators had not seen before. One of them was adorned +with a most beautiful blue, in every respect equal to the ultramarine. +With this blue all his claws and joints are deeply tinged; while the +under part of him was white, and so exquisitely polished, that to +colour and brightness it bore an exact resemblance to the white of old +china. The other crab was also marked, though somewhat more sparingly, +with the ultramarine on his joints and his toes; and on his back were +three brown spots of a singular appearance. + +Early the next morning, Lieutenant Cook, having found the passage +between the Islands, sailed to the northward, and, on the evening of +the succeeding day, anchored at about two miles distance from the +main. At this time a great number of islands, lying a long way without +the ship, were in sight. On the 29th, the lieutenant sent away the +master with two boats to sound the entrance of an inlet, which lay to +the west, and into which he intended to go with the vessel, that he +might wait a few days for the moon's increase, and have an opportunity +of examining the country. As the tide was observed to ebb and flow +considerably, when the Endeavour had anchored within the inlet, our +commander judged it to be a river, that might run pretty far up into +land. Thinking that this might afford a commodious situation for +laying the ship ashore, and cleaning her bottom, he landed with the +master, in search of a proper place for the purpose. He was +accompanied in the excursion by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and they +found walking exceedingly troublesome, in consequence of the ground's +being covered with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very sharp +and bearded. Whenever these seeds stuck into their clothes, which +happened at every step, they worked forward by means of the beard, +till they got at the flesh. Another disagreeable circumstance was, +that the gentlemen were incessantly tormented with the stings of a +cloud of musquitos. They soon met with several places where the ship +might conveniently be laid ashore; but were much disappointed in not +being able to find any fresh water. In proceeding up the country they +found gum trees, the gum upon which existed only to very small +quantities. Gum trees of a similar kind and as little productive, had +occurred in other parts of the coast of New South Wales. Upon the +branches of the trees were ants' nests, made of clay as big as a +bushel. The ants themselves, by which the nests were inhabited, were +small, and their bodies white. Upon another species of the gum trees, +was found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and, +having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe in which it had been +contained. Notwithstanding this, the parts in which these insects, to +an amazing number, had formed a lodgment, bore leaves and flowers, and +appeared to be entirely in a flourishing state. Butterflies were found +in such multitudes, that the account of them seems almost to be +incredible. The air was so crowded with them, for the space of three +or four acres, that millions might be seen in every direction; and the +branches and twigs of the trees were at the same time covered with +others that were not upon the wing. A small fish a of singular kind +was likewise met with in this place. Its size was about that of a +minnow, and it had two very strong breast-fins. It was found in places +which were quite dry, and where it might be supposed that it had been +left by the tide; and yet it did not appear to have become languid +from that circumstance: for when it was approached, it leaped away as +nimbly as a frog. Indeed it did not seem to prefer water to land. + +Though the curiosity of Mr. Cook and his friends was gratified by the +sight of these various objects, they were disappointed in the +attainment of their main purpose, the discovery of fresh water; and a +second excursion, which was made by them on the afternoon of the same +day, was equally unsuccessful. The failure of the lieutenant's hopes +determined him to make but a short stay in the place. Having, however, +observed from an eminence, that the inlet penetrated a considerable +way into the country, he formed a resolution of tracing it in the +morning. Accordingly, at sunrise, on Wednesday the 30th of May, he +went on shore, and took a view of the coast and the islands that lie +off it with their bearings. For this purpose he had with him an +azimuth compass; but he found, that the needle differed very +considerably in its position, even to thirty degrees; the variation +being in some places more, in others less. Once the needle varied from +itself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. Mr. +Cook having taken up some of the loose stones which lay upon the +ground, applied them to the needle, but they produced no effect; +whence he concluded that in the hills there was iron ore, traces of +which he had remarked both here and in the neighbouring parts. After +he had made his observations upon the hill, he proceeded with Dr. +Solander up the inlet. He set out with the first of the flood, and had +advanced above eight leagues, long before it was high-water. The +breadth of the inlet, thus far, was from two to five miles, upon a +direction south-west by south; but here it opened every way, and +formed a large lake, which to the north-west communicated with the +sea. Our commander not only saw the sea in this direction, but found +the tide of flood coming strongly in from that point. He observed, +also, an arm of this lake extending to the eastward. Hence he thought +it not improbable, that it might communicate with the sea in the +bottom of the bay, which lies to the westward of the Cape, that on the +chart is designated by the name of Cape Townshend. On the south side +of the lake is a ridge of hills which the lieutenant was desirous of +climbing. As, however, it was high water, and the day was far spent; +and as the weather, in particular, was dark and rainy, he was afraid +of being bewildered among the shoals in the night, and therefore was +obliged to give up his inclination, and to make the best of his way to +the ship. Two people only were seen by him, who followed the boat +along the shore a good way at some distance; but he could not +prudently wait for them, as the tide ran strongly in his favour. +Several fires in one direction, and smoke in another, exhibited +farther proofs of the country's being in a certain degree inhabited. + +While Mr. Cook, with Dr. Solander, was tracing the inlet, Mr. Banks +and a party with him engaged in a separate excursion, in which they +had not proceeded far within land, before their course was obstructed +by a swamp, covered with mangroves. This, however, they determined to +pass; and having done it with great difficulty, they came up to a +place where there had been four small fires, near to which lay some +shells and bones of fish, that had been roasted. Heaps of grass were +also found lying together, on which four or five people appeared to +have slept. Mr. Gore, in another place, observed the track of a large +animal. Some bustards were likewise seen, but not any other bird, +excepting a few beautiful loriquets, of the same kind with those which +had been noticed in Botany Bay. The country in general, in this part +of New South Wales, appeared sandy and barren, and destitute of the +accommodations which could fit it for being possessed by settled +inhabitants. From the ill success that attended the searching for +fresh water, Lieutenant Cook called the inlet in which the ship lay +Thirsty Sound. No refreshment of any other sort was here procured by +our voyagers. + +Our commander, not having a single inducement to stay longer in this +place, weighed anchor in the morning of the 31st and put to sea. In +the prosecution of the voyage, when the Endeavour was close under Cape +Upstart, the variation of the needle, at sunset, on the 4th of June, +was 9° east, and at sunrise the next day, it was no more that 5° 35'. +Hence the lieutenant concluded, that it had been influenced by iron +ore, or by some other magnetical matter contained under the surface of +the earth. In the afternoon of the 7th our navigators saw upon one of +the islands what had the appearance of cocoa-nut trees; and as few +nuts would at this time have been very acceptable, Mr. Cook sent +Lieutenant Hicks ashore, to see if he could procure any refreshment. +He was accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and in the evening +the gentlemen returned, with an account that what had been taken for +cocoa-nut trees were a small kind of cabbage-palm, and that, excepting +about fourteen or fifteen plants, nothing could be obtained which was +worth bringing away. On the 8th, when the Endeavour was in the midst +of a cluster of small islands, our voyagers discerned with their +glasses, upon one of the nearest of these islands, about thirty of the +natives, men, women, and children, all standing together, and looking +with great attention at the ship. This was the first instance of +curiosity that had been observed among the people of the country. The +present Indian spectators were entirely naked. Their hair was short, +and their complexion the same with that of such of the inhabitants as +had been seen before. + +In navigating the coast of New South Wales, where the sea in all parts +conceals shoals, which suddenly project from the shore, and rocks, +that rise abruptly like a pyramid from the bottom, our commander had +hitherto conducted his vessel in safety, for an extent of two and +twenty degrees of latitude, being more than one thousand three hundred +miles. But, on the 10th of June, as he was pursuing his course from a +bay to which he had given the name of Trinity Bay, the Endeavour fell +into a situation, as critical and dangerous, as any that is recorded in +the history of navigation; a history which abounds with perilous +adventures, and almost miraculous escapes. Our voyagers were now near +the latitude assigned to the islands that were discovered by Quiros, +and which, without sufficient reason, some geographers have thought +proper to join to this land. The ship had the advantage of a fine +breeze, and a clear moonlight night; and in standing off from six till +near nine o'clock, she had deepened her water from fourteen to +twenty-one fathom. But while our navigators were at supper, it +suddenly shoaled, and they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, +within the compass of a few minutes. Mr. Cook immediately ordered +every man to his station, and all was ready to put about and come to +an anchor, when deep water being met with again at the next cast of +the lead, it was concluded that the vessel had gone over the tail of +the shoals which had been seen at sun-set, and that the danger was now +over. The idea of security was confirmed by the water's continuing to +deepen to twenty and twenty-one fathom, so that the gentlemen left the +deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed. However, a little before +eleven, the water shoaled at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and +before the lead could be cast again, the ship struck, and remained +immoveable, excepting so far as she was influenced by the heaving of +the surge, that beat her against the crags of the rock upon which she +lay. A few moments brought every person upon deck, with countenances +suited to the horrors of the situation. As our people knew, from the +breeze which they had in the evening, that they could not be very near +the shore, there was too much reason to conclude, that they were on a +rock of coral, which, on account of the sharpness of its points, and +the roughness of its surface, is more fatal than any other. On +examining the depth of water round the ship, it was speedily +discovered that the misfortune of our voyagers was equal to their +apprehensions. The vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock, +and lay in a hollow within it, in some places of which hollow there +were from three to four fathom, and in others not so many feet of +water. To complete the scene of distress, it appeared from the light +of the moon, that the sheathing boards from the bottom of the ship +were floating away all around her, and at last her false keel; so that +every moment was making way for the whole company's being swallowed up +by the rushing in of the sea. There was now no chance but to lighten +her, and the opportunity had unhappily been lost of doing it to the +best advantage; for, as the Endeavour had gone ashore just at high +water, and by this time it had considerably fallen, she would, when +lightened, be but in the same situation as at first. The only +alleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed, the +vessel settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with so +much violence. Our people had, indeed, some hope from the next tide, +though it was doubtful whether the ship would hold together so long, +especially as the rock kept grating part of her bottom with such force +as to be heard in the fore store-room. No effort, however, was +remitted from despair of success. That no time might be lost, the +water was immediately started in the hold, and pumped up; six guns, +being all that were upon the deck, a quantity of iron and stone +ballast, casks, hoop-staves, oil jars, decayed stores, and a variety, +of things besides, were thrown overboard with the utmost expedition. +Every one exerted himself not only without murmuring and discontent, +but even with an alacrity which almost approached to cheerfulness. So +sensible, at the same time, were the men of the awfulness of their +situation, that not an oath was heard among them, the detestable habit +of profane swearing being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring +guilt when a speedy death was in view. + +When Lieutenant Cook and all the people about him were thus employed, +the opening of the morning of the 11th of June presented them with a +fuller prospect of their danger. The land was seen by them at about +eight leagues distance, without any island in the intermediate space +upon which, if the ship had gong to pieces, they might have been set +ashore by the boats, and carried thence by different turns to the +main. Gradually, however, the wind died away, and, early in the +forenoon, it became a dead calm; a circumstance this, peculiarly happy +in the order of Divine Providence; for if it had blown hard, the +vessel must inevitably have been destroyed. High water being expected +at eleven in the morning, and every thing being made ready to heave +her off if she should float; to the inexpressible surprise and concern +of our navigators, so much did the day tide fall short of that of the +night, that though they had lightened the ship nearly fifty ton, she +did not float by a foot and a half. Hence it became necessary to +lighten her still more, and every thing was thrown overboard that +could possibly be spared. Hitherto the Endeavour had not admitted much +water; but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast, that she could +scarcely be kept free, though two pumps were incessantly worked. There +were now no hopes but from the tide at midnight; to prepare for taking +the advantage of which the most vigorous efforts were exerted. About +five o'clock in the afternoon the tide began to rise, but, at the same +time, the leak increased to a most alarming degree. Two more pumps, +therefore, were manned, one of which unhappily would not work. Three +pumps, however, were kept going, and at nine o'clock the ship righted. +Nevertheless, the leak had gained so considerably upon her, that it +was imagined that she must go to the bottom, as soon as she ceased to +be supported by the rock. It was, indeed, a dreadful circumstance to +our commander and his people, that they were obliged to anticipate the +floating of the vessel, not as an earnest of their deliverance, but as +an event which probably would precipitate their destruction. They knew +that their boats were not capable of carrying the whole of them on +shore, and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, all command +and subordination being at an end, a contest for preference might be +expected, which would increase even the horrors of shipwreck, and turn +their rage against each other. Some of them were sensible that if they +should escape to the main land, they were likely to suffer more upon +the whole, than those who would be left on board to perish in the +waves. The latter would only be exposed to instant death; whereas the +former, when they got on shore, would have no lasting or effectual +defence against the natives, in a part of the country where even nets +and fire-arms could scarcely furnish them with food. But supposing +that they should find the means of subsistence; how horrible must be +their state, to be condemned to languish out the remainder of their +lives in a desolate wilderness without the possession or hope of +domestic comfort; and to be cut off from all commerce with mankind, +excepting that of the naked savages, who prowl the desert, and who +perhaps are some of the most rude and uncivilized inhabitants of the +earth. + +The dreadful moment which was to determine the fate of our voyagers +now drew on; and every one saw, in the countenances of his companions, +the picture of his own sensations. Not, however, giving way to +despair, the lieutenant ordered the capstan and windlass to be manned +with as many hands as could be spared from the pumps, and the ship +having floated about twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the grand +effort was made, and she was heaved into deep water. It was no small +consolation to find, that she did not now admit of more water than she +had done when upon the rock. By the gaining, indeed, of the leak upon +the pumps, three feet and nine inches of water were in the hold; +notwithstanding which, the men did not relinquish their labour. Thus +they held the water as it were at bay: but having endured excessive +fatigue of body, and agitation of mind, for more than twenty-four +hours, and all this being attended with little hope of final success, +they began, at length, to flag. None of them could work at the pump +above five or six minutes together, after which, being totally +exhausted they threw themselves down upon the deck, though a stream of +water, between three or four inches deep, was running over it from the +pumps. When those who succeeded them had worked their time, and in +their turn were exhausted, they threw themselves down in the same +manner and the others started up again, to renew their labour. While +thus they were employed in relieving each other, an accident was very +nearly putting an immediate end to all their efforts. The planking +which lines the ship's bottom is called the ceiling, between which and +the outside planking there is a space of about eighteen inches. From +this ceiling only, the man who had hitherto attended the well had +taken the depth of the water, and had given the measure accordingly. +But, upon his being relieved, the person who came in his room reckoned +the depth to the outside planking which had the appearance of the +leak's having gained upon the pumps eighteen inches in a few minutes. +The mistake, however, was soon detected; and the accident, which in +its commencement was very formidable to them, became, in fact, highly +advantageous. Such was the joy which every man felt at finding his +situation better than his fears had suggested, that it operated with +wonderful energy, and seemed to possess him with a strong persuasion +that scarcely any real danger remained. New confidence and new hope +inspired fresh vigour; and the efforts of the men were exerted with so +much alacrity and spirit, that before eight o'clock in the morning the +pumps had gained considerably upon the leak. All the conversation now +turned upon carrying the ship into some harbour, as a thing not to be +doubted; and as hands could be spared from the pumps, they were +employed in getting up the anchors. It being found impossible to save +the little bower anchor, it was cut away at a whole cable, and the +cable of the stream anchor was lost among the rocks; but in the +situation of our people, these were trifles which scarcely attracted +their notice. The fore topmast and fore yard were next erected, and +there being a breeze from the sea, the Endeavour, at eleven o'clock, +got once more under sail, and stood for the land. + +Notwithstanding these favourable circumstances, our voyagers were +still very far from being in a state of safety. It was not possible +long to continue the labour by which the pumps had been made to gain +upon the leak; and as the exact place of it could not be discovered, +there was no hope of stopping it within. At this crisis, Mr. +Monkhouse, one of the midshipmen, came to Lieutenant Cook, and +proposed an expedient he had once seen used on board a merchant ship, +which had sprung a leak that admitted more than four feet water in an +hour, and which by this means had been safely brought from Virginia to +London. To Mr. Monkhouse, therefore, the care of the expedient, which +is called forthering the ship, was, with proper assistance, committed; +and his method of proceeding was as follows. He took a lower studding +sail, and having mixed together a large quantity of oakum and wool, he +stitched it down as lightly as possible, in handfuls upon the sail, +and spread over it the dung of the sheep of the vessel, and ether +filth. The sail being thus prepared, it was hauled under the ship's +bottom by ropes, which kept it extended. When it came under the leak, +the suction that carried in the water, carried in with it the oakum +and wool from the surface of the sail. In other parts the water was +not sufficiently agitated to wash off the oakum and the wool. The +success of the expedient was answerable to the warmest expectations; +for hereby the leak was so far reduced, that, instead of gaining upon +three pumps, it was easily kept under with one. Here was such a new +source of confidence and comfort, that our people could scarcely have +expressed more joy, if they had been already in port. It had lately +been the utmost object of their hope, to run the ship ashore in some +harbour, either of an island or the main, and to build a vessel out of +her materials, to carry them to the East Indies. Nothing, however, was +now thought of but to range along the coast in search of a convenient +place to repair the damage the Endeavour had sustained, and then to +prosecute the voyage upon the same plan as if no impediment had +happened. In justice and gratitude to the ship's company, and the +gentlemen on board, Mr. Cook has recorded, that although in the midst +of their distress all of them seemed to have a just sense of their +danger, no man gave way to passionate exclamations, or frantic +gestures. 'Every one appeared to have the perfect possession of his +mind, and every one exerted himself to the utmost, with a quiet and +patient perseverance, equally distant from the tumultuous violence of +terror, and the gloomy inactivity of despair.' Though the lieutenant +hath said nothing of himself, it is well known that his own composure, +fortitude, and activity, were equal to the greatness of the occasion. + +To complete the history of this wonderful preservation, it is +necessary to bring forward a circumstance, which could not be +discovered till the ship was laid down to be repaired. It was then +found, that one of her holes, which was large enough to have sunk our +navigators, if they had had eight pumps instead of four, and had been +able to keep them incessantly going, was in a great measure filled up +by a fragment of the rock, upon which the Endeavour had struck. To +this singular event, therefore, it was owing, that the water did not +pour in with a violence, which must speedily have involved the +Endeavour and all her company in inevitable destruction. + +Hitherto none of the names, by which our commander had distinguished +the several parts of the country seen by him, were memorials of +distress. But the anxiety and danger, which he and his people had now +experienced, induced him to call the point in sight, which lay to the +northward, Cape Tribulation. + +The next object, after this event, was to look out for a harbour, +where the defects of the ship might be repaired, and the vessel put +into proper order for future navigation. On the 14th, a small harbour +was happily discovered, which was excellently adapted to the purpose. +It was, indeed, remarkable, that, during the whole course of the +voyage, our people had seen no place which, in their present +circumstances, could have afforded them the same relief. They could +not, however, immediately get into it; and in the midst of all their +joy for their unexpected deliverance, they had not forgotten that +there was nothing but a lock of wool between them and destruction. + +At this time, the scurvy, with many formidable symptoms, began to make +its appearance among our navigators. Tupia, in particular, was so +grievously affected with the disease, that all the remedies prescribed +by the surgeon could not retard its progress. Mr. Green, the +astronomer, was also upon the decline. These and other circumstances +embittered the delay which prevented our commander and his companions +from getting on shore. In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was +still fresh, the lieutenant ventured to weigh, and to put in for the +harbour, the entrance into which was by a very narrow channel. In +making the attempt, the ship was twice run aground. At the first time +she went off without any trouble, but the second time, she stuck fast. +Nevertheless, by proper exertions, in conjunction with the rising of +the tide, she floated about one o'clock in the afternoon, and was soon +warped into the harbour. The succeeding day was employed in erecting +two tents, in landing the provisions and stores, and in making every +preparation for repairing the damages which the Endeavour had +sustained. In the meanwhile, Mr. Cook, who had ascended one of the +highest hills that overlooked the harbour was by no means entertained +with a comfortable prospect; the low land near the river being wholly +overrun with mangroves, among which the salt water flows at every +tide, and the high land appearing to be altogether stony and barren. +Mr. Banks also took a walk up the country, and met with the frames of +several old Indian houses, and places where the natives, though not +recently, had dressed shell fish. The boat, which had this day been +dispatched to haul the seine, with a view of procuring some fish for +the refreshment of the sick, returned without success. Tupia was more +fortunate. Having employed himself in angling, and lived entirely upon +what he caught, he recovered in a surprising degree. Mr. Green, to the +regret of his friends, exhibited no symptoms of returning health. + +On the 19th, Mr. Banks crossed the river, to take a farther view of +the country; which he found to consist principally of sand hills. Some +Indian houses were seen by him, that appeared to have been very lately +inhabited; and in his walk be met with large flocks of pigeons and +crows. The pigeons were exceedingly beautiful. Of these he shot +several; but the crows, which were exactly like those in England, were +so shy, that they never came within the reach of his gun. + +It was not till the 22nd, that the tide so far left the Endeavour, as +to give our people an opportunity of examining her leak. In the place +where it was found, the rocks had made their way through four planks, +and even into the timbers. Three more planks were greatly damaged, and +there was something very extraordinary in the appearance of the +breaches. Not a splinter was to be seen, but all was as smooth as if +the whole had been cut away by an instrument. It was a peculiarly +happy circumstance, that the timbers were here very close, since +otherwise the ship could not possibly have been saved. Now also it was +that the fragment of rock was discovered, which, by sticking in the +leak of the vessel had been such a providential instrument of her +preservation. + +On the same day, some of the people who had been sent to shoot pigeons +for the sick, and who had discovered many Indian houses, and a fine +stream of fresh water reported at their return, that they had seen an +animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make, of a mouse colour, +and extremely swift. As the lieutenant was walking, on the morning of +the 24th, at a little distance from the ship, he had an opportunity of +seeing an animal of the same kind. From the description he gave of it, +and from an imperfect view which occurred to Mr. Banks, the latter +gentleman was of opinion that its species was hitherto unknown. + +The position of the vessel, while she was refitting for sea, was very +near depriving the world of that botanical knowledge, which Mr. Banks +had procured at the expense of so much labour, and such various +perils. For the greater security of the curious collection of plants +which he had made during the whole voyage, he had removed them into +the bread room. This room is in the after part of the ship, the head +of which, for the purpose of repairing her, was laid much higher than +the stern. No one having thought of the danger to which this +circumstance might expose the plants, they were found to be under +water. However, by the exercise of unremitting care and attention, the +larger part of them were restored to a state of preservation. + +On the 29th of June, at two o'clock in the morning Mr. Cook, in +conjunction with Mr. Green, observed an emersion of Jupiter's first +satellite. The time here was 2h 18' 53", which gave the longitude of +the place at 214° 42' 30" west: its latitude is 15° 26' south. The +next morning the lieutenant sent some of the young gentlemen to take a +plan of the harbour, whilst he himself ascended a hill, that he might +gain a full prospect of the sea: and it was a prospect which presented +him with a lively view of the difficulties of his situation. To his +great concern he saw innumerable sand-banks and shoals, lying in every +direction of the coast. Some of them extended as far as he could +discern with his glass, and many of them did but just rise above +water. To the northward there was an appearance of a passage, and this +was the only direction to which our commander could hope to get clear, +in the prosecution of his voyage; for, as the wind blew constantly +from the south-east, to return by the southward would have been +extremely difficult, if not absolutely impossible. On this, and the +preceding day, our people had been very successful in hauling the +seine. The supply of fish was so great, that the lieutenant was now +able to distribute two pounds and a half to each man. A quantity of +greens having likewise been gathered, he ordered them to be boiled +with peas. Hence an excellent mess was produced, which, in conjunction +with the fish, afforded an unspeakable refreshment to the whole of the +ship's company. + +Early in the morning of the 2d of July, Lieutenant Cook sent the +master out of the harbour, in the pinnace, to sound about the shoals, +and to search for a channel to the northward. A second attempt, which +was made this day, to heave off the ship, was as unsuccessful as a +former one had been. The next day the master returned, and reported +that he had found a passage out to sea, between the shoals. On one of +these shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were dry +at low water, he had landed, and found there cockles, of so enormous a +size, that a single cockle was more than two men could eat. At the +same place he met with a great variety of other shell fish, and +brought back with him a plentiful supply for the use of his fellow +voyagers. At high water, this day, another effort was made to float +the ship, which happily succeeded; but it being found, that she had +sprung a plank between decks, it became necessary to lay her ashore a +second time. The lieutenant, being anxious to attain a perfect +knowledge of the state of the vessel, got one of the carpenters crew, +a man in whom he could confide, to dive on the fifth to her bottom, +that he might examine the place where the sheathing had been rubbed +off. His report, which was, that three streaks of the sheathing, about +eight feet long, were wanting, and that the main plank had been a +little rubbed, was perfectly agreeable to the account that had been +given before by the master and others, who had made the same +examination; and our commander had the consolation of finding, that, +in the opinion of the carpenter, this matter would be of little +consequence. The other damage, therefore, being repaired, the ship was +again floated at high water, and all hands were employed in taking the +stores on board, and in putting her into a condition for proceeding on +her voyage. To the harbour in which she was refitted for the sea, Mr. +Cook gave the name of the Endeavour River. + +On the morning of the 6th, Mr. Banks accompanied by Lieutenant Gore, +and three men, set out in a small boat up the river, with a view of +spending a few days in examining the country. In this expedition +nothing escaped his notice, which related either to the natural +history or the inhabitants of the places he visited. Though he met +with undoubted proofs, that several of the natives were at no great +distance, none of them came within sight. Having found, upon the +whole, that the country did not promise much advantage from a farther +search, he and his party re-embarked in their boat, and returned, on +the 8th, to the ship. During their excursion, they had slept upon the +ground in perfect security, and without once reflecting upon the +danger they would have incurred, if, in that situation, they had been +discovered by the Indians. + +Lieutenant cook had not been satisfied with the account which the +master had given of his having traced a passage between the shoals, +into the sea. He sent him out, therefore, a second time, upon the same +business; and, on his return, he made a different report. Having been +seven leagues out at sea, the master was now of opinion, that there +was no such passage as he had before imagined. His expedition, +however, though in this respect unsuccessful, was not wholly without +its advantage. On the very rock where he had seen the large cockles, +he met with a great number of turtle; and though he had no better an +instrument than a boat hook, three of them were caught, which together +weighed seven hundred and ninety-one pounds. An attempt, which, by +order of the lieutenant, was made the next morning to obtain some more +turtle, failed, through the misconduct of the same officer, who had +been so fortunate on the preceding day. + +Hitherto the natives of this part of the country had eagerly avoided +holding any intercourse with our people: but at length their minds, +through the good management of Mr. Cook, became more favourably +disposed. Four of them having appeared, on the 10th, in a small canoe, +and seeming to be busily employed in striking fish, some of the ships +company were for going over to them in a boat. This, however, the +lieutenant would not permit, repeated experience having convinced him +that it was more likely to prevent than to procure an interview. He +determined to pursue a contrary method, and to try what could be done +by letting them alone, and not appearing to make them, in the least +degree, the objects of his notice. So successful was this plan, that +after some preparatory intercourse, they came alongside the ship, +without expressing any fear or distrust. The conference was carried +on, by signs, with the utmost cordiality till dinner time, when, being +invited by our people to go with them and partake of their provision, +they declined it, and went away in their canoe. One of these Indians +was somewhat above the middle age; the three others were young. Their +statue was of the common size, but their limbs were remarkably small. +The colour of their skin was a dark chocolate. Their hair was black, +but not woolly; and their features were far from being disagreeable. +They had lively eyes, and their teeth were even and white. The tones +of their voices were soft and musical, and there was a flexibility in +their organs of speech, which enabled them to repeat with great +facility many of the words pronounced by the English. + +On the next morning, our voyagers had another visit from four of the +natives. Three of them were the same who had appeared the day before, +but the fourth was a stranger, to whom his companions gave the name of +Yaparico. He was distinguished by a very peculiar ornament. This was +the bone of a bird nearly as thick as a man's finger, and five or six +inches long, which he had thrust into a hole, made in the gristle that +divides the nostrils. An instance of the like kind, and only one, had +been seen in New Zealand. It was found, however, that among all these +people the same part of the nose was perforated; that they had holes +in their ears; and that they had bracelets, made of plaited hair, upon +the upper part of their arms. Thus the love of ornament takes place +among them though they are absolutely destitute of apparel. + +Three Indians, on the 12th, ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were so +well pleased with their reception, that one of them went with his +canoe to fetch two others, who had never been seen by the English. On +his return, he introduced the strangers by name, a ceremony which was +never omitted upon such occasions. From a father acquaintance with the +natives, it was found, that the colour of their skins was not so dark +as had at first been apprehended, and that all of them were remarkably +clean-limbed, and extremely active and nimble. Their language appeared +to be more harsh than that of the islanders to the South Sea. + +On the 14th, Mr. Gore had the good fortune to kill one of the animals +before mentioned, and which had been the subject of much speculation. +It is called by the natives Kanguroo; and when dressed proved most +excellent meat. Indeed, our navigators might now be said to fare +sumptuously every day; for they had turtle in great plenty, and it was +agreed that these were far superior to any which our people had ever +tasted in England. This the gentlemen justly imputed to their being +eaten fresh from the sea, before their natural fat had been wasted, or +their juices changed, by the situation and diet they are exposed to +when kept in tubs. Most of the turtle here caught were of the kind +called green turtle, and their weight was from two to three hundred +pounds. + +In the morning of the 16th, while the men were engaged in their usual +employment of getting the ship ready for the sea, our commander +climbed one of the heights on the north side of the river, and +obtained from it an extensive view of the inland country, which he +found agreeably diversified by hills, valleys, and large plains, that +in many places were richly covered with wood. This evening, the +lieutenant and Mr. Green observed an emersion of the first satellite +of Jupiter, which gave 214° 53' 45" of longitude. The observation +taken on the 29th of June had given 214° 48' 30"; and the mean was +214° 48' 7-1/2", being the longitude of the place west of Greenwich. + +On the 17th, Mr. Cook sent the master and one of the mates in the +pinnace, to search for a channel northward; after which, accompanied +by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, he went into the woods on the other +side of the water. In this excursion, the gentlemen had a farther +opportunity of improving that acquaintance with the Indians, who by +degrees became so familiar, that several of them the next day ventured +on board the ship. There the lieutenant left them, apparently much +entertained, that he might go with Mr. Banks to take a farther survey +of the country, and especially to indulge an anxious curiosity they +had of looking round about them upon the sea; of which they earnestly +wished, but scarcely dared to hope, that they might obtain a +favourable and encouraging prospect. When, after having walked along +the shore seven or eight miles to the northward, they ascended a very +high hill, the view which presented itself to them inspired nothing +but melancholy apprehensions. In every direction they saw rocks and +shoals without number; and there appeared to be no passage out to sea, +but through the winding channels between them, the navigation of which +could not be accomplished without the utmost degree of difficulty and +danger. The spirits of the two gentlemen were not raised by this +excursion. + +On the 19th, our voyagers were visited by ten of the natives: and six +or seven more were seen at a distance, chiefly women, who were as +naked as the male inhabitants of the country. There being at that time +a number of turtles on the deck of the ship, the Indians who came on +board were determined to get one of them; and expressed great +disappointment and anger, when our people refused to comply with their +wishes. Several attempts were made by them to secure what they wanted +by force; but all their efforts proving unsuccessful, they suddenly +leaped into their canoe in a transport of rage, and paddled towards +the shore. The lieutenant, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of the +ship's crew, immediately went into the boat, and got ashore, where +many of the English were engaged in various employments. As soon as +the natives reached the land, they seized their arms, which had been +laid up in a tree, and having snatched a brand from under a +pitch-kettle that was boiling, made a circuit to the windward of the +few things our people had on shore, and with surprising quickness and +dexterity set on fire to the grass in that way. The grass, which was +as dry as stubble, and five or six feet high, burned with surprising +fury; and a tent of Mr. Banks's would have been destroyed if that +gentleman had not immediately got some of the men to save it, by +hauling it down upon the beach. Every part of the smith's forge that +would burn was consumed. This transaction was followed by another of +the same nature. In spite of threats and entreaties, the Indians went +to a different place, where several of the Endeavour's crew were +washing, and where the seine, the other nets, and a large quantity of +linen were laid out to dry, and again set fire to the grass. The +audacity of this fresh attack rendered it necessary that a musket, +loaded with small shot, should be discharged at one of them; who being +wounded at the distance of about forty yards they all betook +themselves to flight. In the last instance the fire was extinguished +before it had made any considerable progress; but where it had first +began, it spread far into the woods. The natives being still in sight, +Mr. Cook, to convince them that they had not yet gotten out of his +reach, fired a musket, charged with ball, abreast of them among the +mangroves, upon which they quickened their pace, and were soon out of +view. It was now expected that they would have given our navigators no +farther trouble; but in a little time their voices were heard in the +woods, and it was perceived that they came nearer and nearer. The +lieutenant, therefore, together with Mr. Banks, and three or four more +persons, set out to meet them; and the result of the interview, in +consequence of the prudent and lenient conduct of our commander and +his friends, was a complete reconciliation. Soon after the Indians +went away, the woods were seen to be on fire at the distance of about +two miles. This accident, if it had happened a little sooner, might +have produced dreadful effects; for the powder had been but a few days +on board, and it was not many hours that the store tents, with all the +valuable things contained in it had been removed. From the fury with +which the grass would burn in this hot climate, and the difficulty of +extinguishing the fire, our voyagers determined never to expose +themselves to the like danger, but to clear the ground around them, if +ever again they should be under the necessity of pitching their tents +in such a situation. + +In the evening of this day, when every thing was gotten on board the +ship, and she was nearly ready for sailing, the master returned with +the disagreeable account that there was no passage for her to the +northward. The next morning, the lieutenant himself sounded and buoyed +the bar. At this time, all the hills for many miles round were on +fire, and the appearance they assumed at night was eminently striking +and splendid. + +In an excursion which was made by Mr. Banks, on the 23rd, to gather +plants, he found the greatest part of the cloth that had been given to +the Indians lying in a heap together. This, as well as the trinkets +which had been bestowed upon them, they probably regarded as useless +lumber. Indeed, they seemed to set little value on any thing possessed +by our people, excepting their turtle, and that was a commodity which +could not be spared. + +As Lieutenant Cook was prevented by blowing weather from attempting to +get out to sea, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander seized another opportunity, +on the 24th, of pursuing their botanical researches. Having traversed +the woods the greater part of the day, without success, as they were +returning through a deep valley they discovered lying upon the ground +several marking nuts, anacardiam orientale. Animated with the hope of +meeting the tree that bore them, a tree which perhaps no European +botanist had ever seen, they sought for it with great diligence and +labour, but to no purpose. While Mr. Banks was again gleaning the +country, on the 26th, to enlarge his treasure of natural history, he +had the good fortune to take an animal of the oppossum tribe, together +with two young ones. It was a female, and though not exactly of the +same species, much resembled the remarkable animal which Mons. de +Buffon hath described by the name of phalanger. + +On the morning of the 29th, the weather becoming calm, and a light +breeze having sprung up by land, Lieutenant Cook sent a boat to see +what water was upon the bar, and all things were made ready for +putting to sea. But, on the return of the boat, the officer reported, +that there were only thirteen feet of water on the bar. As the ship +drew thirteen feet six inches, and the sea-breeze set in again in the +evening, all hope of sailing on that day was given up. The weather +being more moderate on the 31st, the lieutenant had thoughts of trying +to warp the vessel out of the harbour; but upon going out himself to +the boat, he found, that the wind still blew so fresh, that it would +not be proper to make the attempt. A disagreeable piece of +intelligence occured on the succeeding day. The carpenter, who had +examined the pumps, reported, that they were all of them in a state of +decay. One of them was so rotten, that, when hoisted up, it dropped to +pieces, and the rest were not in a much better condition. The chief +confidence, therefore, of our navigators was now in the soundness of +the ship; and it was a happy circumstance, that she did not admit more +than one inch of water in an hour. + +Early on the 3rd of August, another unsuccessful attempt was made to +warp the vessel out of the harbour but in the morning of the next day +the efforts of our voyagers were more prosperous, and the Endeavour +got once more under sail with a light air from the land, which soon +died away, and was followed by sea-breezes from south-east by south. +With these breezes the ship stood off to sea, east by north, having +the pinnace ahead, which was ordered to keep sounding without +intermission. A little before noon the lieutenant anchored in fifteen +fathom water, with a sandy bottom, the reason of which was, that he +did not think it safe to run in among the shoals, till, by taking a +view of them from the mast-head at low water, he might be able to form +some judgment which way it would be proper for him to steer. This was +a matter of nice and arduous determination. As yet Mr. Cook was in +doubt, whether he should beat back to the southward, round all the +shoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or the northward: nor was it +possible to say, whether each of these courses might not be attended +with equal difficulty and danger. + +The impartiality and humanity of Lieutenant Cook's conduct in the +distribution of provisions ought not to pass unnoticed. Whatever +turtle or other fish were caught, they were always equally divided +among the whole ship's crew, the meanest person on board having the +same share with the lieutenant himself. He hath justly observed, that +this is a rule which every commander will find it his interest to +follow, in a voyage of a similiar nature. + +Great difficulties occured in the navigation from the Endeavour river. +On the 5th of August, the lieutenant had not kept his course long, +before shoals were discovered in every quarter, which obliged him, as +night approached, to come to an anchor. In the morning of the 6th +there was so strong a gale, that our voyagers were prevented from +weighing. When it was low water, Mr. Cook, with several of his +officers, kept a look-out at the mast head, to see if any passage +could be discovered between the shoals. Nothing, however, was in view, +excepting breakers, which extended from the south round by the east as +far as to the north-west, and reached out to sea, beyond the sight of +any of the gentlemen. It did not appear that these breakers were +caused by one continued shoal, but by several, which lay detached from +each other. On that which was farthest to the eastward, the sea broke +very high, so that the lieutenant was induced to think, that it was +the outermost shoal. He was now convinced, that there was no passage +to sea, but through the labyrinth formed by these shoals; and, at the +same time, he was wholly at a loss what course to steer, when the +weather should permit the vessel to sail. The master's opinion was, +that our navigators should beat back the way they came; but as the +wind blew strongly, and almost without intermission, from that +quarter, this would have been an endless labour: and yet, if a passage +could not be found to the northward, there was no other alternative. +Amidst these anxious deliberations, the gale increased, and continued, +with little remission, till the morning of the 10th, when the weather +becoming more moderate, our commander weighed, and stood in for the +land. He had now come to a final determination of seeking a passage +along the shore to the northward. + +In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour proceeded in her +course, and at noon came between the farthermost headland that lay in +sight, and three islands which were four or five leagues to the north +of it, out at sea. Here our navigators thought they saw a clear +opening before them, and began to hope that they were once more out of +danger. Of this hope, however, they were soon deprived; on which +account, the lieutenant gave to the headland the name of Cape +Flattery. After he had steered some time along the shore, for what was +believed to be the open channel, the petty officer at the mast-head +cried aloud, that he saw land ahead, which extended quite round to the +three islands, and that between the ship and them there was a large +reef. Mr. Cook, upon this, ran up the mast-head himself, and plainly +discerned the reef, which was so far to the windward, that it could +not be weathered. As to the land which the petty officer had supposed +to be the main, our commander was of opinion, that it was only a +cluster of small islands. The master, and some others, who went up the +mast-head after the lieutenant, were entirely of a different opinion. +All of them were positive that the land in sight did not consist of +islands, but that it was a part of the main: and they rendered their +report still more alarming, by adding, that they saw breakers around +them on every side. In a situation so critical and doubtful, Mr. Cook +thought proper to come to an anchor, under a high point which he +immediately ascended, that he might have a farther view of the sea and +the country. The prospect he had from this place, which he called +Point Look-out, clearly confirmed him in his former opinion; the +justness of which displayed one of the numerous instances, wherein it +was manifest, how much he exceeded the people about him in sagacity of +his judgment concerning matters of navigation. + +The lieutenant, being anxious to discover more distinctly the +situation of the shoals, and the channel between them, determined to +visit the northernmost and largest of the three islands before +mentioned; which, from its height and its lying five leagues out to +sea, was peculiarly adapted to his purpose. Accordingly, in company +with Mr. Banks, whose fortitude and curiosity stimulated him to take a +share in every undertaking, he set out in the pinnace, on the morning +of the 11th, upon this expedition. He sent, at the same time, the +master in the yawl, to sound between the low islands and the mainland. +About one o'clock, the gentlemen reached the place of their +destination, and immediately, with a mixture of hope and fear, +proportioned to the importance of the business, and the uncertainty of +the event, ascended the highest hill they could find. When the +lieutenant took a survey of the prospect around him, he discovered, on +the outside of the islands, and at the distance of two or three +leagues from them, a reef of rocks, upon which the sea broke in a +dreadful surf, and which extended farther than his sight could reach. +Hence, however, he collected, that there was no shoals beyond them; +and, as he perceived several breaks or openings in the reef, and deep +water between that and the islands, he entertained hopes of getting +without the rocks. But though he saw reason to indulge, in some +degree, this expectation, the haziness of the weather prevented him +from obtaining that satisfactory intelligence which he ardently +desired. He determined, therefore, by staying all night upon the +island, to try whether the next day would not afford him a more +distinct and comprehensive prospect. Accordingly, the gentlemen took +up their lodging under the shelter of a bush, which grew upon the +beach. Not many hours were devoted by them to sleep; for, at three in +the morning, Mr. Cook mounted the hill a second time, but had the +mortification of finding the weather much more hazy than it had been +on the preceding day. He had early sent the pinnace, with one of the +mates, to sound between the island and the reefs, and to examine what +appeared to be a channel through them. The mate, in consequence of its +blowing hard, did not dare to venture into the channel, which he +reported to be very narrow. Nevertheless, our commander, who judged, +from the description of the place, that it had been seen to +disadvantage, was not discouraged by this account. + +While the lieutenant was engaged in his survey, Mr. Banks, always +attentive to the great object of natural history, collected some +plants which he had never met with before. No animals were perceived +upon the place, excepting lizards, for which reason the gentlemen gave +it the name of Lizard Island. In their return to the ship, they landed +on a low sandy island that had trees upon it, and which abounded with +an incredible number of birds, principally sea-fowl. Here they found +the nest of an eagle, and the nest of some other bird, of what species +they could not distinguish; but it must certainly be one of the +largest kinds that exist. This was apparent from the enormous size of +the nest, which was built with sticks upon the ground, and was no less +than six and twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches +in height. The spot which the gentlemen were now upon they called +Eagle Island. + +When Lieutenant Cook got on board he entered into a very serious +deliberation concerning the course he should pursue. After considering +what he had seen himself and the master's report, he was of opinion, +that by keeping in with the main land, he should run the risk of being +locked in by the great reef, and of being compelled at last to return +back in search of another passage. By the delay that would hence be +occasioned, our navigators would almost certainly be prevented from +getting in time to the East Indies, which was a matter of the utmost +importance, and indeed of absolute necessity; for they had now not +much more than three months' provision on board, at short allowance. +The judgment the lieutenant had formed together with the facts and +appearances on which it was grounded, he stated to his officers, by +whom it was unanimously agreed, that the best thing they could do +would be to quit the coast entirely, till they could approach it again +with less danger. + +In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour, early in the morning +of the 13th, got under sail, and successfully passed through one of +the channels or openings in the outer reef, which Mr. Cook had seen +from the island. When the ship had gotten without the breakers, there +was no ground within one hundred and fifty fathom, and our people +found a large sea rolling in upon them from the south-east. This was a +certain sign that neither land nor shoals were near them in that +direction. + +So happy a change in the situation of our voyagers was sensibly felt +in every breast, and was visible in every countenance. They had been +little less than three months in a state that perpetually threatened +them with destruction. Frequently had they passed their nights at +anchor within hearing of the surge, that broke over the shoals and +rocks; and they knew, that, if by any accident the anchors should not +hold against an almost continual tempest, they must in a few minutes +inevitably perish. They had sailed three hundred and sixty leagues, +without once, even for a moment, having a man out of the chains +heaving the lead. This was a circumstance which perhaps never had +happened to any other vessel. But now our navigators found themselves +in an open sea with deep water; and the joy they experienced was +proportioned to their late danger, and their present security. +Nevertheless, the very waves, which proved by their swell that our +people had no rocks or shoals to fear, convinced them, at the same +time, that they could not put a confidence in the ship equal to what +they had done before she struck. So far were the leaks widened by the +blows she received from the waves, that she admitted no less than nine +inches of water in an hour. If the company had not been lately in so +much more imminent danger, this fact, considering the state of the +pumps, and the navigation which was still in view, would have been a +matter of very serious concern. + +The passage or channel, through which the Endeavour passed into the +open sea beyond the reef, lies in latitude 14° 32' south. It may +always be known by the three high islands within it, to which, on +account of the use they may be of in guiding the way of future +voyagers, our commander gave the appellation of the islands of +Direction. + +It was not a long time that our navigators enjoyed the satisfaction of +being free from the alarm of danger. As they were pursuing their +course in the night of the 15th, they sounded frequently, but had no +bottom with one hundred and forty fathom, nor any ground with the same +length of line. Nevertheless, at four in the morning of the 16th, they +plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it +foaming to a vast height, at not more than the distance of mile. The +waves, which rolled in upon the reef, carried the vessel towards it +with great rapidity; and, at the same time, our people could reach no +ground with an anchor, and had not a breath of wind for the sail. In a +situation so dreadful, there was no resource but in the boats; and +most unhappily, the pinnace was under repair. By the help, however, of +the long-boat and the yawl, which were sent ahead to tow, the ship's +head was got round to the northward, a circumstance which might delay, +if it could not prevent destruction. This was not effected till six +o'clock, and our voyagers were not then a hundred yards from the rock, +upon which the same billow had washed the side of the vessel broke to +a tremendous height, the very next time it rose. There was only, +therefore, a dreary valley between the English and destruction; a +valley no wider than the base of one wave, while the sea under them +was unfathomable. The carpenter, in the meanwhile, having hastily +patched up the pinnace, she was hoisted out, and sent ahead to tow in +aid of the other boats. But all these efforts would have been +ineffectual, if a light air of wind had not sprung up, just at the +crisis of our people's fate. It was so light an air, that at any other +time it would not have been observed: but it was sufficient to turn +the scale in favour of our navigators; and in conjunction with the +assistance which was afforded by the boats, it gave the ship a +perceptible motion obliquely from the reef. The hopes of the company +now revived: but in less than ten minutes a dead calm succeeded, and +the vessel was again driven towards the breakers, which were not at +the distance of two hundred yards. However, before the ground was lost +which had already been gained, the same light breeze returned, and +lasted ten minutes more. During this time a small opening about a +quarter of a mile distant, was discovered in the reef; upon which Mr. +Cook immediately sent one of the mates to examine it, who reported +that its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but that +within it there was smooth water. This discovery presented the +prospect of a possibility of escape, by pushing the vessel through the +opening. Accordingly, the attempt was made, but it failed of success; +for when our people, by the joint assistance of their boats and the +breeze, had reached the opening, they found that it had become high +water; and, to their great surprise, they met the tide of ebb running +out like a mill-stream. In direct contrariety to their expectations, +some advantage was gained by this event. Though it was impossible to +go through the opening, the stream, which prevented the Endeavour from +doing it, carried her out about a quarter of a mile; and the boats +were so much assisted in towing her by the tide of ebb, that at noon +she had gained the distance of nearly two miles. However, there was +yet too much reason to despair of deliverance. For even if the breeze, +which had now died away, had revived, our navigators were still +embayed in the reef: and the tide of ebb being spent, the tide of +flood, notwithstanding their utmost efforts, drove the ship back again +into her former perilous situation. Happily, about this time, another +opening was perceived, nearly a mile to the westward. Our commander +immediately sent Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, to examine it; and +in the meanwhile the Endeavour struggled hard with the flood, +sometimes gaining, and sometimes losing ground. During this severe +service, every man did his duty with as much calmness and regularity +as if no danger had been near. At length Mr. Hicks returned with the +intelligence, that the opening, though narrow and hazardous, was +capable of being passed. The bare possibility of passing it was +encouragement sufficient to make the attempt; and indeed all danger +was less to be dreaded by our people, than that of continuing in their +present situation. A light breeze having fortunately sprung up, this, +in conjunction with the aid of the boats, and the very tide of flood +that would otherwise have been their destruction, enabled them to +enter the opening, through which they were hurried with amazing +rapidity. Such was the force of the torrent by which they were carried +along, that they were kept from driving against either side of the +channel, which in breadth was not more than a quarter of a mile. While +they were shooting this gulf, their soundings were remarkably +irregular, varying from thirty to seven fathom, and the ground at +bottom was foul. + +As soon as our navigators had gotten within the reef, they came to an +anchor; and their joy was exceedingly great, at having regained a +situation, which, three days before, they had quitted with the utmost +pleasure and transport. Rocks and shoals, which are always dangerous +to the mariner, even when they are previously known and marked, are +peculiarly dangerous in seas which have never been navigated before; +and in this part of the globe they are more perilous than in any +other. Here they consist of reefs of coral rock, which rise like a +wall almost perpendicularly out of the deep, and are always overflowed +at high water. Here, too, the enormous waves of the vast southern +ocean, meeting with so abrupt a resistance, break, with inconceivable +violence, in a surf which cannot be produced by any rocks or storms in +the northern hemisphere. A crazy ship, shortness of provision, and a +want of every necessary, greatly increased the danger to our present +voyagers of navigating in this ocean. Nevertheless, such is the ardour +of the human mind, and so flattering is the distinction of a first +discoverer, that Lieutenant Cook and his companions cheerfully +encountered every peril, and submitted to every inconvenience. They +chose rather to incur the charge of imprudence and temerity, than to +leave a country unexplored which they had discovered, or to afford the +least colour for its being said, that they were deficient in +perseverance and fortitude. It scarcely needs to be added, that it was +the high and magnanimous spirit of our commander, in particular, which +inspired his people with so much resolution and vigour. + +The lieutenant, having now gotten within the reef, determined, +whatever might be the consequence, to keep the main land on board, in +his future route to the northward. His reason for this determination +was, that, if he had gone without the reef again, he might have been +carried by it so far from the coast, as to prevent his being able to +ascertain whether this country did, or did not, join to New Guinea; a +question which he had fixed upon resolving, from the first moment that +he had come within sight of land. To the opening through which the +Endeavour had passed, our commander, with a proper sense of gratitude +to the Supreme Being, gave the name of Providential Channel. In the +morning of the 17th, the boats had been sent out, to see what +refreshments could be procured; and returned in the afternoon with two +hundred and forty pounds of the meat of shell fish, chiefly of +cockles. Some of the cockles were as much as two men could move, and +contained twenty pounds of good meat. Mr. Banks, who had gone out in +his little boat, accompanied by Dr. Solander, brought back a variety +of curious shells, and many species of corals. + +In the prosecution of the voyage, our people, on the 19th, were +encompassed on every side with rocks and shoals: but, as they had +lately been exposed to much greater danger, and these objects were now +become familiar, they began to regard them comparatively with little +concern. On the 21st, there being two points in view, between which +our navigators could see no land, they conceived hopes of having at +last found a passage into the Indian Sea. Mr. Cook, however, that he +might be able to determine the matter with greater certainty, resolved +to land upon an island, which lies at the south-east point of the +passage. Accordingly, he went into the boat, with a party of men, +accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. As they were getting to +shore, some of the natives seemed inclined to oppose their landing, +but soon walked leisurely away. The gentlemen immediately climbed the +highest hill, from which no land could be seen between the south-west +and west-south-west; so that the lieutenant had not the least doubt of +finding a channel, through which he could pass to New Guinea. As he +was now about to quit the coast of New Holland, which he had traced +from latitude thirty-eight to this place, and which he was certain no +European had ever seen before, he once more hoisted English colours. +He had, indeed, already taken possession of several particular parts +of the country. But he now took possession of the whole eastern coast, +with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and islands situated upon it, +from latitude 38° to latitude 10°-1/2' south, in right of His Majesty +King George the Third, and by the name of New South Wales. The party +then fired three volleys of small arms, which were answered by the +same number from the ship. When the gentlemen had performed this +ceremony upon the island, which they called Possession Island, they +re-embarked in their boat, and, in consequence of a rapid ebb tide, +had a very difficult and tedious return to the vessel. + +On the 23rd, the wind had come round the south-west; and though it was +but a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied by a swell from the same +quarter, which, in conjunction with other circumstances, confirmed Mr. +Cook in his opinion, that he had arrived to the northern extremity of +New Holland, and that he had now an open sea to the westward. These +circumstances afforded him peculiar satisfaction, not only because the +dangers and fatigues of the voyage were drawing to a conclusion, but +because it could no longer be doubted whether New Holland and New +Guinea were two separate islands. The north-east entrance of the +strait lies in the latitude of 10° 39' south, and in the longitude of +218° 36' west; and the passage is formed by the main land, and by a +congeries of islands, the north-west, called by the lieutenant the +Prince of Wales's Islands, and which may probably extend as far as to +New Guinea. Their difference is very great, both in height and +circuit, and many seemed to be well covered with herbage and wood: nor +was there any doubt of their being inhabited. Our commander was +persuaded, that among these islands as good passages might be found, +as that through which the vessel came, and the access to which might +be less perilous. The determination of this matter he would not have +left to future navigators, if he had been less harassed by danger and +fatigue and had possessed a ship in better condition for the purpose. +To the channel through which he passed, he gave the name of Endeavour +Straits. + +New Holland, or, as the eastern part of it was called by Lieutenant +Cook, New South Wales, is the largest country in the known world, +which does not bear the name of a continent. The length of coast along +which our people sailed, when reduced to a strait line, was no less +than twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amounting nearly to two +thousand miles. In fact the square surface of the island is much more +than equal to the whole of Europe. We may observe, with regard to the +natives, that their number bears no proportion to the extent of their +territory. So many as thirty of them had never been seen together but +once, and that was at Botany Bay. Even when they appeared determined +to engage the English, they could not muster above fourteen or fifteen +fighting men: and it was manifest, that their sheds and houses did not +lie so close together, as to be capable of accommodating a larger +party. Indeed our navigators saw only the sea-coast on the eastern +side; between which and the western shore there is an immense track of +land, that is wholly unexplored. But it is evident, from the totally +uncultivated state of the country which was seen by our people, that +this immense tract must either be altogether desolate, or at least +more thinly inhabited than the parts which were visited. Of traffic, +the natives had no idea, nor could any be communicated to them. The +things which were given them they received, but did not appear to +understand the signs of the English requiring a return. There was no +reason to believe that they eat animal food raw. As they have no +vessel in which water can be boiled, they either broil their meat upon +the coals, or bake in a hole by the help of hot stones, agreeably to +the custom of the inhabitants of the South Sea islands. Fire is +produced by them with great facility, and they spread it in a +surprising manner. For producing it, they take two pieces of soft +wood, one of which is a stick about eight or nine inches long, while +the other piece is flat. The stick they shape into an obtuse point at +one end, and pressing it upon the flat wood, turn it nimbly by holding +it between both their hands. In doing this, they often shift their +hands up, and then move them down, with a view of increasing the +pressure as much as possible. By this process they obtain fire in less +than two minutes, and from the smallest spark they carry it to any +height or extent with great speed and dexterity. + +It was not possible, considering the limited intercourse which our +navigators had with the natives of New South Wales that much could be +learned with regard to their language. Nevertheless, as this is an +object of no small curiosity to the learned, and is indeed of peculiar +importance in searching into the origin of the various nations that +have been discovered, Mr. Cook and his friends took some pains to +collect such a specimen of it as might, in a certain degree, answer +the purpose. Our commander did not quit the country without making +such observations, relative to the currents and tides upon the coast, +as, while they increase the general knowledge of navigation, may be of +service to future voyagers. The irregularity of the tides is an object +worthy of notice. + +From the coast of New South Wales, the lieutenant steered on the 23rd +of August, for the coast of New Guinea, and on the 25th, fell upon a +dangerous shoal. The ship was in six fathom, but scarcely two were +found, upon sounding round her, at the distance of half a cable's +length. This shoal was of such an extent, reaching from the east round +by the north and west to the south-west, that there was no method for +the vessel to get clear of it, but by her going back the way in which +she came. Here was another hair's breadth escape; for it was nearly +high water, and there ran a short cockling sea, which if the ship had +struck, must very soon have bulged her. So dangerous was her +situation, that, if her direction had been half a cable's length more, +either to the right or left, she must have struck before the signal +for the shoal could have been made. + +It had been Lieutenant Cook's intention to steer north-west till he +had made the south coast of New Guinea, and it was his purpose to +touch upon it, if that could be found practicable. But in consequence +of the shoals he met with, he altered his course, in the hope of +finding a clearer channel, and deeper water. His hope was agreeably +verified; for by noon, on the 26th, the depth of water was gradually +increased to seventeen fathom. On the 28th, our voyagers found the sea +to be in many places covered with a brown scum, such as the sailors +usually called spawn. When the lieutenant first saw it he was alarmed, +fearing, that the ship was again among shoals; but the depth of water, +upon sounding, was discovered to be equal to what it was in other +places. The same appearance had been observed upon the coasts of +Brazil and New Holland, in which cases it was at no great distance +from the shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the scum, but +could not determine what it was, any farther then as they saw reason +to suppose that it belonged to the vegetable kingdom. The sailors, +upon meeting with more of it, gave up the notion of its being spawn, +and finding a new name for it, called it sea sawdust. + +At day break, on the 3rd of September, our navigators came in sight of +New Guinea, and stood in for it, with a fresh gale, till nine o'clock, +when they brought to, being in three fathom water and within about +three or four miles of land. Upon this the pinnace was hoisted, and +the lieutenant set off from the ship with the boat's crew, accompanied +by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks's servants, being in all +twelve persons, well armed. As soon as they came ashore, they +discovered the prints of human feet, which could not long have been +impressed upon the sand. Concluding, therefore, that the natives were +at no great distance, and there being a thick wood which reached to +within a hundred yards of the water, the gentlemen thought it +necessary to proceed with caution, lest their retreat to the boat +should be cut off. When they had walked some way along the skirts of +the wood, they came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, at the fruit of +which they looked very wishfully; but not thinking it safe to climb, +they were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. After they +had advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians +rushed out of the wood with a hideous shout, and, as they ran towards +the English, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flew +on one side of him, and burned exactly like gunpowder though without +making any report. The two other natives having at the same instant +discharged their arrows, the lieutenant and his party were under the +necessity of firing, first with small shot, and a second time with +ball. Upon this, the three Indians ran away with great agility. As Mr. +Cook had no disposition forcibly to invade this country, either to +gratify the appetites or the curiosity of his people, and was +convinced that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, he and his +companions returned with all expedition towards their boat. When they +were aboard, they rowed abreast of the natives, who had come down to +the shore in aid of their countrymen and whose number now amounted to +between sixty and a hundred. Their appearance was much the same as +that of the New Hollanders; they nearly resembled them in stature, and +in having their hair short and cropped. Like them, also, they were +absolutely naked but the colour of their skin did not seem quite so +dark, which, however, might be owing to their being less dirty. While +the English gentlemen were viewing them, they were shouting defiance, +and letting off their fires by four or five at a time. Our people +could not imagine what these fires were, or what purposes they were +intended to answer. Those who discharged them had in their hands a +short piece of stick, which they swung sideways from them, and +immediately there issued fire and smoke, exactly resembling those of a +musket, and of as short a duration. The men on board the ship, who +observed this surprising phenomenon, were so far deceived by it, as to +believe that the Indians had fire-arms. To the persons in the boat, it +had the appearance of the firing of volleys without a report. + +The place where this transaction happened lies in the latitude of 6° +15' south, and is about sixty-five leagues to the north-east of Port +Saint Augustine, or Walche Caep, and is near what is called in the +charts C. de la Colta de St. Bonaventura. In every part of the coast, +the land is covered with a vast luxuriance of wood and herbage. The +cocoa-nut, the bread-fruit, and the plantain-tree, flourish here in +the highest perfection; besides which, the country abounds with most +of the trees, shrubs, and plants, that are common to the South Sea +islands, New Zealand, and New Holland. + +Soon after Mr. Cook and his party had returned to the ship, our +voyagers made sail to the westward, the lieutenant having resolved to +spend no more time upon this coast; a resolution which was greatly to +the satisfaction of a very considerable majority of his people. Some +of the officers indeed were particularly urgent that a number of men +might be sent ashore, to cut down cocoa-nut trees for the sake of +their fruit. This, however, our commander absolutely refused, as +equally unjust and cruel. It was morally certain, from the preceding +behaviour of the natives, that if their property had been invaded, +they would have made a vigorous effort to defend it; in which case, +the lives of many of them must have been sacrificed; and perhaps, too, +several of the English would have fallen in the contest. The necessity +of a quarrel with the Indians would have been regretted by the +lieutenant, even if he had been impelled to it by a want of the +necessaries of life; but to engage in it for the transient +gratification that would arise from obtaining two or three hundred +green cocoa-nuts, appeared in his view highly criminal. The same +calamity, at least with regard to the natives, would probably have +occurred, if he had sought for any other place on the coast, to the +northward and westward, where the ship might have lain so near the +shore, as to cover his people with the guns when they had landed. +Besides, there was cause to believe, that before such a place could +have been found, our navigators would have been carried so far to the +westward, as to be obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side of +Java. This, in Mr. Cook's opinion, would not have been so safe a +passage, as that to the south of Java, through the strait of Sunda, +Another reason for his making the best of his way to Batavia, was the +leakiness of the vessel, which rendered it doubtful, whether it would +not be necessary to heave her down when she arrived at that port. Our +commander's resolution was farther confirmed by the consideration, +that no discovery could be expected in seas which had already been +navigated, and where the coasts had been sufficiently described both +by Spanish and Dutch geographers, and especially by the latter. The +only merit claimed by the lieutenant, in this part of his voyage, was +the having established it as a fact beyond all controversy, that New +Holland and New Guinea are two distinct countries. + +Without staying, therefore, on the coast of New Guinea, the Endeavour, +on the same day, directed her course to the westward, in pursuing +which, Mr. Cook had an opportunity of rectifying the errors of former +navigators. Very early in the morning of the 6th of September, our +voyagers passed a small island, which lay to the north-north-west; and +at day-break they discovered another low island, extending from that +quarter to north-north-east. Upon the last island, which appeared to +be of considerable extent, the lieutenant would have landed to examine +its produce, if the wind had not blown so fresh, as to render his +design impracticable. Unless these two islands belong to the Arrou +islands, they have no place in the charts; and if they do belong to +the Arrou islands, they are laid down at too great a distance from New +Guinea. Some other land which was seen this day ought, by its distance +from New Guinea, to have been part of the Arrou islands; but if any +dependance can be placed on former charts, it lies a degree farther to +the south. + +On the 7th, when the ship was in latitude 9° 30' south, and longitude +229° 34' west, our people ought to have been in sight of the Weasel +Isles, which, in the charts, are laid down at the distance of twenty +or twenty-five leagues from the coast of New Holland. But as our +commander saw nothing of them, he concluded that they must have been +placed erroneously. Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it is +considered, that not only these islands, but the coast which bounds +this sea, have been explored at different times, and by different +persons, who had not all the requisites for keeping accurate journals +which are now possessed; and whose various discoveries have been +delineated upon charts by others, perhaps at the distance of more than +a century after such discoveries had been made. + +In pursuing their course, our navigators passed the islands of Timor, +Timor-lavet, Rotte, and Seman. While they were near the two latter +islands, they observed, about ten o'clock at night, on the 16th of the +month, a phenomenon in the heavens, which in many particulars +resembled the Aurora Borealis, though in others it was very different. +It consisted of a dull reddish light, which reached about twenty +degrees above the horizon; and though its extent, at times, varied +much, it never comprehended less than eight or ten points of the +compass. Through, and out of the general appearance, there passed rays +of light of a brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed, +nearly in the same manner as those of the Aurora Borealis, but +entirely without the tremulous or vibratory motion which is seen in +that phenomenon. The body of this light bore south-south-east from the +ship, and continued, without any diminution of its brightness, till +twelve o'clock, and probably a longer time, as the gentlemen were +prevented from observing it farther, by their retiring to sleep. + +By the 16th, Lieutenant Cook had gotten clear of all the islands which +had then been laid down in the maps as situated between Timor and +Java, and did not expect to meet with any other in that quarter. But +the next morning an island was seen bearing west-south-west, and at +first he believed that he had made a new discovery. As soon as our +voyagers had come close in with the north side of it, they had the +pleasing prospect of houses and cocoa-nut trees, and of what still +more agreeably surprised them, numerous flocks of sheep. Many of the +people on board were at this time in a bad state of health, and no +small number of them had been dissatisfied with the lieutenant for not +having touched at Timor. He readily embraced, therefore, the +opportunity of landing at a place which appeared so well calculated to +supply the necessities of the company, and to remove both the sickness +and the discontent which had spread among them. This place proved to +be the island of Savu, where a settlement had lately been made by the +Dutch. + +The great design of our commander was to obtain provisions, which, +after some difficulty, and some jealousy on the part of Mr. Lange, the +Dutch resident, were procured. These provisions were nine buffaloes, +six sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, many dozens of eggs, +some cocoa-nuts, a few limes, a little garlic, and several hundred +gallons of palm syrup. In obtaining these refreshments at a reasonable +price, the English were not a little assisted by an old Indian, who +appeared to be a person of considerable authority under the king of +the country. The lieutenant and his friends were one day very +hospitably entertained by the king himself, though the royal etiquette +did not permit his majesty to partake of the banquet. + +So little in general, had the island of Savu been known, that Mr. Cook +had never seen a map or chart in which it is clearly or accurately +laid down. The middle of it lies in about the latitude of 10° 35' +south, and longitude 237° 30' west; and from the ship it presented a +prospect, than which nothing can be more beautiful. This prospect, +from the verdure and culture of the country, from the hills, richly +clothed, which rise in a gentle and regular ascent, and from the +stateliness and beauty of the trees, is delightful to a degree that +can scarcely be conceived by the most lively imagination. With regard +to the productions and natives of the island, the account which our +navigators were enabled to give of them, and which is copious and +entertaining, was, in a great measure, derived from the information of +Mr. Lange. + +An extraordinary relation is given of the morals of the people of this +island, and which if true, must fill every virtuous mind with +pleasure. Their characters and conduct are represented as +irreproachable, even upon the principles of Christianity. Though no +man is permitted to have more than one wife, an illicit commerce +between the sexes is scarcely known among them. Instances of theft are +very rare; and so far are they from revenging a supposed injury by +murder, that when any difference arises between them they immediately, +and implicitly refer it to the determination of their king. They will +not so much as make it the subject of private debate, lest they should +hence be provoked to resentment and ill will. Their delicacy and +cleanliness are suited to the purity of their morals. From the +specimen which is given of the language of Savu, it appears to have +some affinity with that of the South Sea islands. Many of the words +are exactly the same, and the terms of numbers are derived from the +same origin. + +On the 21st of September, our navigators got under sail, and having +pursued their voyage till the 1st of October, on that day they came +within sight of the island of Java. During their course from Savu, +Lieutenant Cook allowed twenty minutes a-day for the westerly current, +which he concluded must run strong at this time, especially on the +coast of Java; and accordingly, he found that this allowance was +exactly equivalent to the effect of the current upon the ship. Such +was the sagacity of our commander's judgment in whatever related to +navigation. + +On the 2nd, two Dutch ships being seen to lie off Anger Point, the +lieutenant sent Mr. Hicks on board one of them to inquire news +concerning England, from which our people had so long been absent. Mr. +Hicks brought back the agreeable intelligence, that the Swallow, +commanded by Captain Cateret, had been at Batavia two years before. In +the morning of the 5th, a prow came alongside of the Endeavour, with a +Dutch officer, who sent down to Mr. Cook a printed paper in English, +duplicates of which he had in other languages. This paper was +regularly signed, in the name of the governor and council of the +Indies, by their secretary, and contained nine questions, very ill +expressed, two of which only the lieutenant thought proper to answer. +These were what regarded the nation and name of his vessel, and +whither she was bound. On the 9th, our voyagers stood in for Batavia +road, where they found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two English +private traders, and a number of Dutch ships. Immediately a boat came +on board the Endeavour, and the officer who commanded having inquired +who our people were, and whence they came, instantly returned with +such answers as were given him. In the mean time Mr. Cook sent a +lieutenant ashore, to acquaint the governor of his arrival, and to +make an apology for not having saluted; a ceremony he had judged +better to omit; as he could only make use of three guns, excepting the +swivels, which he was of opinion would not be heard. + +It being universally agreed, that the ship could not safely proceed to +Europe without an examination of her bottom, our commander determined +to apply for leave to heave her down at Batavia; and for this purpose +he drew up a request in writing, which, after he had waited first upon +the governor-general, and then upon the council, was readily complied +with, and he was told, that he should have every thing he wanted. + +In the evening of the 10th, there was a dreadful storm of thunder, +lightning, and rain, during which the mainmast of one of the Dutch +East Indiamen was split, and carried away by the deck; and the +maintop-mast and topgallant-mast were shivered to pieces. The stroke +was probably directed by an iron spindle, which was at the maintop +gallantmast head. As this ship lay very near the Endeavour, she could +scarcely have avoided sharing the same fate, had it not been for the +conducting chain, which fortunately had been just gotten up, and which +conveyed the lightning over the side of the vessel. But though she +escaped the lightning, the explosion shook her like an earthquake; and +the chain at the same time appeared like a line of fire. Mr. Cook has +embraced this occasion of earnestly recommending similar chains to +every ship; and hath expressed his hope that all who read his +narrative will be warned against having an iron spindle at the +mast-head. + +The English gentlemen had taken up their lodging and boarding at an +hotel, or kind of inn, kept by the order of government. Here they met +with those impositions, in point of expense and treatment, which are +too common to admit of much surprise. It was not long, however, that +they submitted to ill usage. By a farther acquaintance with the manner +of dealing with their host, and by spirited remonstrances, they +procured a better furnished table. Mr. Banks, in a few days, hired a +small house for himself and his party; and as soon as he was settled +in his new habitation, sent for Tupia, who bad hitherto continued on +board on account of sickness. When he quitted the ship, and after he +came into the boat, he was exceedingly lifeless and dejected; but no +sooner did he enter the town, than he appeared to be inspired with +another soul. A scene so entirely new and extraordinary filled him +with amazement. The houses, carriages, streets, people, and a +multiplicity of other objects, rushing upon him at once, produced an +effect similar to what is ascribed to enchantment. His boy, Tayeto, +expressed his wonder and delight in a still more rapturous manner. He +danced along the streets in a kind of extacy, examining every object +with a restless and eager curiosity, which was excited and gratified +every moment. Tupia's attention was particularly excited by the +various dresses of the passing multitude; and when he was informed, +that at Batavia every one wore the dress of his own country, he +expressed his desire of appearing in the garb of Otabeite. +Accordingly, South Sea cloth being sent for from the ship, he equipped +himself with great expedition and dexterity. + +Lieutenant Cook imagined that at Batavia he should find it easy to +take up what money he might want for repairing and refitting, the +Endeavour; but in this he was mistaken. No private person could be +found who had ability and inclination to furnish the sum which was +necessary. In this exigency, the lieutenant had recourse by a written +request, to the governor, from whom he obtained an order for being +supplied out of the Dutch company's treasury. + +When our voyagers had been only nine days at Batavia, they began to +feel the fatal effects of the climate and situation. Tupia, after his +first flow of spirits had subsided, grew every day worse and worse; +and Tayeto was seized with an inflamation upon his lungs. Mr. Banks +and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and in a little time almost +every person both on board and on shore, was sick. The distress of our +people was indeed very great and the prospect before them discouraging +in the highest degree. Tupia, being desirous of breathing a freer air +than among the numerous houses that obstructed it ashore, had a tent +erected for him on Cooper's island, to which he was accompanied by Mr. +Banks, who attended this poor Indian with the greatest humanity, till +he was rendered incapable of doing it, by the violent increase of his +own disorder. On the 5th of November. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon of +the ship, a sensible, skilful man, whose loss was not a little +aggravated by the situation of the English, fell the first sacrifice +to this fatal country. Tayeto died on the 9th, and Tupia, who loved +him with the tenderness of a parent, sunk at once after the loss of +the boy, and survived him only a few days. The disorders of Mr. Banks +and Dr. Solander grew to such a height, that the physician declared +they had no chance of preserving their lives but by removing into the +country. Accordingly, a house was hired for them at the distance of +about two miles from the town; where, in consequence of enjoying a +purer air, and being better nursed by two Malayan women, whom they had +bought, they recovered by slow degrees. At length, Lieutenant Cook was +himself taken ill; and out of the whole ship's company, not more than +ten were able to do duty. + +In the midst of these distresses, our commander was diligently and +vigorously attentive to the repair of his vessel. When her bottom came +to be examined, she was found to be in a worse condition than had been +apprehended. Her false keel and main keel were both of them greatly +injured; a large quantity of the sheathing was torn off; and among +several planks which were much damaged, two of them, and the half of a +third, were so worn for the length of six feet, that they were not +above the eighth part of an inch in thickness; and here the worms had +made way quite into the timbers. In this state the Endeavour had +sailed many hundred leagues, in a quarter of the globe where +navigation is dangerous in the highest degree. It was happy for our +voyagers, that they were ignorant of their perilous situation; for it +must have deeply affected them, to have known, that a considerable +part of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe, +and that all their lives depended upon so slight and fragile a barrier +between them and the unfathomable ocean. + +The repair of the Endeavour was carried on very much to Mr. Cook's +satisfaction. In justice to the Dutch officers and workmen, he hath +declared, that in his opinion, there is not a marine yard in the +world, where a ship can be laid with more convenience, safety, and +dispatch, or repaired with greater diligence and skill. He was +particularly pleased with the manner of heaving down by two masts, and +gives it a decided preference to the method which had hitherto been +practised by the English. The lieutenant was not one of those on whom +the bigotry could be charged of adhering to old customs, in opposition +to the dictates of reason and experience. + +By the 8th of December, the Endeavour was perfectly refitted. From +that time to the 24th, our people were employed in completing her +stock of water, provisions, and stores, in erecting some new pumps, +and in various other necessary operations. All this business would +have been effected much sooner, if it had not been retarded by the +general sickness of the men. + +In the afternoon of the 24th, our commander took leave of the governor +of Batavia, and of several other gentlemen belonging to the place, +with whom he had formed connexions, and to whom he had been greatly +obliged for their civilities and assistance. In the meanwhile, an +accident intervened, which might have been attended with disagreable +effects. A seaman, who had run away from one of the Dutch ships in the +road, entered on board the Endeavour. Upon his being reclaimed, as a +subject of Holland, Mr. Cook, who was on shore, declared, that if the +man appeared to be a Dutchman, he should certainly be delivered up. +When however, the order was carried to Mr. Hicks, who commanded on +board, he refused to surrender the seaman, alleging, that he was a +subject of great Britain, born in Ireland. In this conduct, Mr. Hicks +acted in perfect conformity to the lieutenant's intention and +directions. The captain of the Dutch vessel, in the next place, by a +message from the governor-general, demanded the man as a subject of +Denmark. To this Mr. Cook replied, that there must be some mistake in +the general's message, since he would never demand of him a Danish +seaman, whose only crime was that of preferring the English to the +Dutch service. At the same time the lieutenant added, that to strew +the sincerity of his desire to avoid disputes, if the man was a Dane, +he should be delivered up as a courtesy; but that, if he appeared to +be an English subject, he should be kept at all events. Soon after, a +letter was brought from Mr. Hicks, containing indubitable proofs that +the seaman in question was a subject of his Britannic majesty. This +letter Mr. Cook sent to the governor, with an assurance to his +excellency, that he would not part with the man on any terms. A +conduct so firm and decisive produced the desired effect, no more +being heard of the affair. + +In the evening of the 25th, our commander went on board, together with +Mr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen who had resided constantly on +shore. The gentlemen, though considerably better, were far from being +perfectly recovered. As this time, the sick persons in the ship +amounted to forty, and the rest of the company were in a very feeble +condition. It was remarkable, that every individual had been ill +excepting the sailmaker, who was an old man between seventy and eighty +years of age, and who was drunk every day during the residence of our +people at Batavia. Three seamen and Mr. Green's servant died, besides +the surgeon, Tupia, and Tayeto. Tupia did not entirely fall a +sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, and putrid air of the country. +As he had been accustomed from his birth, to subsist chiefly upon +vegetable food, and particularly on ripe fruit, he soon contracted the +disorders which are incident to a sea life, and would probably have +sunk under them before the voyage of the English could have been +completed, even if they had not been obliged to go to Batavia to refit +their vessel. + +Our navigators did not stay at this place without gaining an extensive +acquaintance with the productions of the country, and the manners and +customs of the inhabitants. The information which was obtained on +these heads, will be found to constitute a very valuable addition to +what was heretofore known upon the subject. + +On Thursday the 27th of December, the Endeavour stood out to sea; and +on the 5th of January, 1771, she came to an anchor, under the +south-east side of Prince's Island. The design of this was to obtain a +recruit of wood and water, and to procure some refreshments for the +sick, many of whom had become much worse than they were when they left +Batavia. As soon as the vessel was secured, the lieutenant, Mr. Banks, +and Dr. Solander went on shore, and were conducted by some Indians +they met with to a person who was represented to be the king of the +country. After exchanging a few compliments with his majesty, the +gentlemen proceeded to business, but could not immediately come to a +settlement with him in respect to the price of turtle. They were more +successful in their search of a watering-place, having found water +conveniently situated, and which they had reason to believe would +prove good. As they were going off, some of the natives sold them +three turtle, under a promise that the king should not be informed of +the transaction. + +On the next day a traffic was established with the Indians, upon such +terms as were offered by the English; so that by night our people had +plenty of turtle. The three which had been purchased the evening +before were in the mean time dressed for the ship's company, who, +excepting on the preceding day, had not, for nearly the space of four +months, been once served with salt provisions. Mr. Banks, in the +evening, paid his respects to the king at his palace, which was +situated in the middle of a rice field. His majesty was busily +employed in dressing his own supper; but this did not prevent him from +receiving his visitant in a very gracious manner. During the following +days the commerce with the natives for provisions was continued; in +the course of which they brought down to the trading place, not only a +quantity of turtle, but fowls, fish, monkeys, small deer, and some +vegetables. + +On the evening of the 11th, when Mr. Cook went on shore to see how +those of his people conducted their business, who were employed in +wooding and watering, he was informed that an axe had been stolen. As +it was a matter of consequence to prevent others from being encouraged +to commit thefts of the like kind, he resolved not to pass over the +offence, but to insist upon redress from the king. Accordingly, after +some altercation, his majesty promised that the axe should be restored +in the morning, and the promise was faithfully performed. + +On the 15th, our commander weighed, and stood out for sea. Prince's +Island, where he lay about ten days, was formerly much frequented by +the India ships of many nations, and especially those of England, but +it had lately been forsaken, on account of the supposed badness of its +water. This supposition, however, arose from a want of duly examining +the brook by which the water is supplied. It is, indeed, brackish at +the lower part of the brook, but higher up it will be found excellent. +The lieutenant, therefore, was clearly of opinion, that Prince's +Island is a more eligible place for ships to touch at, than either at +North Island or New Bay; from neither of which places any considerable +quantity, of other refreshments can be procured. + +As the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, the +seeds of disease, which had been received at Batavia, appeared with +the most threatening symptoms, and reduced our navigators to a very +melancholy situation. The ship was, in fact, nothing better than an +hospital, in which those who could go about were not sufficient for a +due attendance upon those who were sick. Lest the water which had been +taken in at Prince's island should have had any share in adding to the +disorder of the men, the lieutenant ordered it to be purified with +lime; and, as a farther remedy against infection, he directed all the +parts of the vessel between the decks to be washed with vinegar. The +malady had taken too deep root to be speedily eradicated. Mr. Banks +was reduced so low by it, that for some time there was no hope of his +life; and so fatal was the disease to many others, that almost every +night a dead body was committed to the sea. There were buried, in the +course of about six weeks, Mr. Sporing, a gentleman who was one of Mr. +Banks's assistants; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter, Mr. +Green, the astronomer; the boatswain, the carpenter, and his mate; Mr. +Monkhouse the midshipman, another midshipman, the old jolly sailmaker +and his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two +of the carpenter's crew, and nine seamen. In all, the loss amounted to +three and twenty persons, besides the seven who died at Batavia. It is +probable that these calamitous events, which could not fail of making +a powerful impression on the mind of Lieutenant Cook, might give +occasion to his turning his thoughts more zealously to those methods +of preserving the health of seamen, which he afterwards pursued with +such remarkable success. + +On Friday the 15th of March, the Endeavour arrived off the Cape of +Good Hope; and as soon as she was brought to an anchor, our commander +waited upon the governor, from whom he received assurances that he +should be furnished with every supply which the country could afford. +His first care was to provide a proper place for the sick, whose +number was not small; and a house was speedily found, where it was +agreed that they should be lodged and boarded at the rate of two +shillings a day for each person. + +The run from Java Head to the Cape of Good Hope did not furnish many +subjects of remark, that could be of any great use to future voyagers. +Such observations, however, as occurred to him, the lieutenant has +been careful to record, not being willing to omit the least +circumstance that may contribute to the safety and facility of +navigation. + +The lieutenant, having lain at the Cape to recover the sick, to +procure stores, and to refit his vessel, till the 14th of April, then +stood out of the bay, and proceeded on his voyage homeward. In the +morning of the 29th, he crossed his first meridian, having +circumnavigated the globe in the direction from east to west. The +consequence of which was, that he lost a day, an allowance for which +had been made at Batavia. On the 1st of May be arrived at St Helena, +where he staid till the 4th to refresh; during which time Mr. Banks +employed himself in making the complete circuit of the island, and in +visiting the places most worthy of observation. + +The manner in which slaves are described as being treated in this +island, must be mentioned with indignation. According to our +commander's representation, while every kind of labour is performed by +them, they are not furnished either with horses or with any of the +various machines which art has invented to facilitate their task. +Carts might conveniently be used in some parts, and where the ground +is too steep for them, wheelbarrows might be employed to great +advantage; and yet there is not a wheelbarrow in the whole island. +Though every thing which is conveyed from place to place is done by +slaves alone, they have not the simple convenience of a porter's knot, +but carry their burden upon their heads. They appeared to be a +miserable race, worn out by the united operation of excessive labour +and ill usage; and Mr. Cook was sorry to observe, and to say, that +instances of wanton cruelty were much more frequent among his +countrymen at St. Helena, than among the Dutch, who are generally +reproached with want of humanity, both at Batavia and the Cape of Good +Hope. It is impossible for a feeling mind to avoid being concerned +that such an account should be given of the conduct of any who are +entitled to the name of Britons. The lieutenant's reproof, if just, +hath, it may be hoped, long before this reached the place, and +produced some good effect.[7] If slavery, that disgrace to religion, +to humanity, and, I will add, to sound policy, must still be +continued, every thing ought to be done which can tend to soften its +horrors. + + [Footnote 7: Near the conclusion of Captain Cook's second voyage, + there is the following short note. 'In the account given of St. + Helena, in the narrative of my former voyage, I find some + mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton cruelty + over their slaves; and they have had wheel carriages and porters' + knots for many years.' This note I insert with pleasure. + Nevertheless, I cannot think that the lieutenant could have given + so strong a representation of things, if, at the time in which it + was written, it had been wholly without foundation.] + +When our commander departed from St. Helena, on the 4th, it was in +company with the Portland man-of-war, and twelve Indiamen. With this +fleet he continued to sail till the 10th, when, perceiving that the +Endeavour proceeded much more heavily than any of the other vessels, +and that she was not likely to get home so soon as the rest, he made a +signal to speak with the Portland. Upon this captain Elliot himself +came on board, and Mr. Cook delivered to him the common log-books of +his ship, and the journals of some of the officers. The Endeavour, +however, kept in company with the fleet till the morning of the 23rd, +at which time there was not a single vessel in sight. On that day died +Mr. Hicks, and in the evening his body was committed to the sea, with +the usual ceremonies. Mr. Charles Clerke, a young man extremely well +qualified for the station, and whose name will hereafter frequently +occur, received an order from Mr. Cook to act as lieutenant in Mr. +Hicks's room. + +The rigging and sails of the ship were now become so bad, that +something was continually giving way. Nevertheless, our commander +pursued his course in safety; and on the 10th of June, land, which +proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the boy who +had first seen New Zealand. On the 11th, the lieutenant ran up the +channel. At six the next morning he passed Beachy Head; and in the +afternoon of the same day, he came to an anchor in the Downs, and went +on shore at Deal. + +Thus ended Mr. Cook's first voyage round the world, in which he had +gone through so many dangers, explored so many countries, and +exhibited the strongest proofs of his possessing an eminently +sagacious and active mind; a mind that was equal to every perilous +enterprise, and to the boldest and most successful efforts of +navigation and discovery. + + + +CHAPTER. III. + +Account of Captain Cook during the period between his first and second +Voyage. + + +The manner in which Lieutenant Cook had performed his circumnavigation +of the globe justly entitled him to the protection of government and +the favour of his sovereign. Accordingly, he was promoted to be a +commander in his majesty's navy, by commission bearing date on the +29th of August, 1771. Mr. Cook, on this occasion, from a certain +consciousness of his own merit, wished to have been appointed a post +captain. But the Earl of Sandwich, who was now at the head of the +Admiralty board, though he had the greatest regard for our navigator, +could not concede to his request, because a compliance with it would +have been inconsistent with the order of the naval service. The +difference was in point of rank only, and not of advantage. A +commander has the same pay as a post captain, and his authority is the +same when he is in actual employment. The distinction is a necessary +step in the progress to the higher honours of the profession. + +It cannot be doubted, but that the president and council of the Royal +Society were highly satisfied with the manner in which the transit of +Venus had been observed. The papers of Mr. Cook and Mr. Green relative +to this subject, were put into the hands of the astronomer royal, to +be by him digested, and that he might deduce from them the important +consequences to science which resulted from the observation. This was +done by him with an accuracy and ability becoming his high knowledge +and character. On the 21st of May, 1772, Captain Cook communicated to +the Royal Society, in a letter addressed to Dr. Maskelyne, an 'Account +of the flowing of the tides in the South Sea, as observed on board his +Majesty's Bark, the Endeavour.' + +The reputation our navigator had acquired by his late voyage was +deservedly great; and the desire of the public, to be acquainted with +the new scenes and new objects which were now brought to light, was +ardently excited. It is not surprising, therefore, that different +attempts were made to satisfy the general curiosity. There soon +appeared a publication, entitled, 'A Journal of a voyage round the +World.' This was the production of some person who had been upon the +expedition; and though his account was dry and imperfect, it served, +in a certain degree, to relieve the eagerness of inquiry. The journal +of Sidney Parkinson, draftsman to Sir Joseph Banks, to whom it +belonged by ample purchase, was likewise printed, from a copy +surreptitiously obtained; but an injunction from the Court of Chancery +for some time prevented its appearance. This work, though dishonestly +given to the world, was recommended by plates. But it was Dr. +Hawkesworth's account of Lieutenant Cook's voyage which completely +gratified the public curiosity. This account, which was written by +authority, was drawn up from the journal of the lieutenant, and the +papers of Sir Joseph Banks; and, besides the merit of the composition, +derived an extraordinary advantage from the number and excellence of +its charts and engravings, which were furnished at the expense of +government. The large price given by the booksellers for this work, +and the avidity with which it was read, displayed, in the strongest +light, the anxiety of the nation to be fully informed in every thing +that belonged to the late navigation and discoveries. + +Captain Cook, during his voyage, had sailed over the Pacific Ocean in +many of those latitudes, in which a southern continent had been +expected to lie. He had ascertained, that neither New Zealand nor New +Holland were parts of such a continent. But the general question +concerning its existence had not been determined by him, nor did he go +out for that purpose, though some of the reasons on which the notion +of it had been adopted were dispelled in the course of his navigation. +It is well known how fondly the idea of a _Terra Australis +incognita_ had for nearly two centuries been entertained. Many +plausible philosophical arguments have been urged in its support, and +many facts alleged in its favour. The writer of this narrative fully +remembers how much his imagination was captivated, in the more early +part of his life, with the hypothesis of a southern continent. He has +often dwelt upon it with rapture, and been highly delighted with the +authors who contended for its existence, and displayed the mighty +consequences which would result from its being discovered. Though his +knowledge was infinitely exceeded by that of some able men who paid a +particular attention to the subject, he did not come behind them in +the sanguineness of his hopes and expectation. Every thing, however, +which relates to science must be separated from fancy, and brought to +the test of experiment: and here was an experiment richly deserving to +be tried. The object, indeed, was of peculiar magnitude, and worthy to +be pursued by a great prince, and a great nation. + +Happily, the period was arrived in Britain for the execution of the +most important scientific designs. A regard to matters of this kind, +though so honourable to crowned heads, had heretofore been too much +neglected even by some of the best of our princes. Our present +sovereign had already distinguished his reign by his patronage of +science and literature, but the beginnings which had hitherto been +made were only the pledges of future munificence. With respect to the +object now in view, the gracious dispositions of his majesty were +ardently seconded by the noble lord who had been placed at the head of +the board of admiralty. The Earl of Sandwich was possessed of a mind, +which was capable of comprehending and encouraging the most enlarged +views and schemes with regard to navigation and discovery. +Accordingly, it was by his particular recommendation that a resolution +was formed for the appointment of an expedition, finally to determine +the question concerning the existence of a southern continent. Quiros +seems to have been the first person, who had any idea that such a +continent existed, and he was the first that was sent out for the sole +purpose of ascertaining the fact. He did not succeed in the attempt; +and the attempts of various navigators down to the present century, +were equally unsuccessful. + +When the design of accomplishing this great object was resolved upon, +it did not admit of any hesitation by whom it was to be carried into +execution. No person was esteemed equally qualified with Captain Cook, +for conducting an enterprise, the view of which was to give the utmost +possible extent to the geography of the globe, and the knowledge of +navigation. For the greater advantage of the undertaking, it was +determined that two ship should be employed; and much attention was +paid to the choice of them, and to their equipment for the service. +After mature deliberation by the navy board, during which particular +regard was had to the captain's wisdom and experience, it was agreed, +that no vessels were so proper for discoveries in distant unknown +parts, as those which were constructed like the Endeavour. This +opinion concurring with that of the Earl of Sandwich, the admiralty +came to a resolution that two ships should be provided of a similar +construction. Accordingly, two vessels, both of which had been built +at Whitby, by the same person who built the Endeavour, were purchased +of Captain William Hammond, of Hull. They were about fourteen or +sixteen months old at the time when they were bought, and in Captain +Cook's judgment, were as well adapted to the intended service as if +they had been expressly constructed for that purpose. The largest of +the two, which consisted of four hundred and sixty-two tons burden, +was named the Resolution. To the other, which was three hundred and +thirty-six tons burden, was given the name of the Adventure. On the +28th of November, 1771, Captain Cook was appointed to the command of +the former; and, about the same time, Mr. Tobias Furneaux was promoted +to the command of the latter. The complement of the Resolution, +including officers and men, was fixed at a hundred and twelve persons; +and that of the Adventure, at eighty one. In the equipment of these +ships, every circumstance was attended to that could contribute to the +comfort and success of the voyage. They were fitted in the most +complete manner, and supplied with every extraordinary article which +was suggested to be necessary or useful. Lord Sandwich, whose zeal was +indefatigable upon this occasion, visited the vessels from time to +time, to be assured that the whole equipment was agreeable to his +wishes, and to the satisfaction of those who were to engage in the +expedition. Nor were the navy and victualling boards wanting in +procuring for the ships the very best of stores and provisions, with +some alterations in the species of them, that were adapted to the +nature of the enterprise; besides which, there was an ample supply of +antiscorbutic articles, such as malt, sour krout, salted cabbage, +portable broth saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and inspissated +juice of wort and beer. + +No less attention was paid to the cause of science in general, the +admiralty engaged Mr. William Hodges, an excellent landscape painter, +to embark in the voyage, in order to make drawings and paintings of +such objects, as could not so well be comprehended from written +description. Mr. John Reinhold Forster and his son were fixed upon to +explore and collect the natural history of the countries which might +be visited, and an ample sum was granted by parliament for the +purpose. That nothing might be wanting to accomplish the scientific +views of the expedition, the board of longitude agreed with Mr. +William Wales and Mr. William Bayley, to make astronomical +observations. Mr. Wales was stationed in the Resolution, and Mr. +Bayley in the Adventure. By the same board they were furnished with +the best of instruments, and particularly with four time-pieces, three +constructed by Arnold, and one by Mr. Kendal, on Mr. Harrison's +principles. + +Though Captain Cook had been appointed to the command of the +Resolution on the 28th of November 1771, such were the preparations +necessary for so long and important a voyage, and the impediments +which occasionally and unavoidably occurred, that the ship did not +sail from Deptford till the 9th of April following, nor did she leave +Long Reach till the 10th of May. In plying down the river, it was +found necessary to put into Sheerness, in order to make some +alterations in her upper works. These the officers of the yard were +directed immediately to take in hand; and Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh +Palliser came down to see them executed in the most effectual manner. +The ship being again completed for sea by the 22d of June, Captain +Cook on that day sailed from Sheerness, and, on the 3d of July, joined +the Adventures in Plymouth Sound. Lord Sandwich, in his return from a +visit to the dock-yards, having met the Resolution on the preceding +evening, his lordship and Sir Hugh Palliser gave the last mark of +their great attention to the object of the voyage, by coming on board, +to assure themselves, that every thing was done which was agreeable to +our commander's wishes, and that his vessel was equipped entirely to +his satisfaction. + +At Plymouth, Captain Cook received his instructions; with regard to +which, without entering into a minute detail of them, it is sufficient +to say, that he was sent out upon the most enlarged plan of discovery, +that is known in the history of navigation. He was instructed not only +to circumnavigate the whole globe, but to circumnavigate it in high +southern latitudes, making such traverses, from time to time, into +every corner of the Pacific Ocean not before examined, as might +finally and effectually resolve the much agitated question about the +existence of a southern continent, in any part of the southern +hemisphere, to which access could be had by the efforts of the boldest +and most skilful navigators. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Narrative of Captain Cook's second Voyage round the World. + + +On the 13th of July, Captain Cook sailed from Plymouth, and on the +29th of the same month anchored in Funchiale Road, in the island of +Madeira. Having obtained a supply of water, wine, and other +necessaries at that island, he left it on the 1st of August, and +sailed to the southward. As he proceeded in his voyage, he made three +puncheons of beer of the inspissated juice of malt; and the liquor +produced was very brisk and drinkable. The heat of the weather, and +the agitation of the ship, had hitherto withstood all the endeavours +of our people to prevent this juice from being in a high state of +fermentation. If it could be kept from fermenting, it would be a most +valuable article at sea. + +The captain, having found that his stock of water would not last to +the Cape of Good Hope, without putting his men to a scanty allowance, +resolved to stop at St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verd islands, for a +supply. At Port Praya, in this island, he anchored on the 10th of +August, and by the 14th had completed his water, and procured some +other refreshments; upon which he set sail and prosecuted his course. +He embraced the occasion, which his touching at St. Jago afforded him, +of giving such a delineation and description of Port Praya, and of the +supplies there to be obtained, as might be of service to future +navigators. + +On the 20th of the month, the rain poured down upon our voyagers, not +in drops but in streams; and the wind at the same time being variable +and rough, the people were obliged to attend so constantly upon the +decks, that few of them escaped being completely soaked. This +circumstance is mentioned, to show the method that was taken by +Captain Cook to preserve his men from the evil consequences of the wet +to which they had been exposed. He had every thing to fear from the +rain, which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. But to +guard against this effect, he pursued some hints that had been +suggested to him by Sir Hugh Palliser and Captain Campbell, and took +care that the ship should be aired and dried with fires made between +the decks, and that the damp places of the vessel should be smoked; +beside which the people were ordered to air their bedding and to wash +and dry their clothes, whenever there was an opportunity. The result +of these precautions was, that there was not one sick person on board +the Resolution. + +Captain Cook, on the 8th of September, crossed the line in the +longitude of 8° west, and proceeded, without meeting anything +remarkable, till the 11th of October. When at 6h. 24m. 12s. by Mr. +Kendal's watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed; soon after +which the gentlemen prepared to observe the end of the eclipse. The +observers were, the captain himself, and Mr. Forster, Mr. Wales, Mr. +Pickersgill, Mr. Gilbert, and Mr. Harvey. + +Our commander had been informed, before he left England, that he +sailed at an improper season of the year, and that he should meet with +much calm weather, near and under the line. But though such weather +may happen in some years, it is not always, or even generally to be +expected. So far was it from being the case with Captain Cook, that he +had a brisk south-west wind in those very latitudes where the calms +had been predicted: nor was he exposed to any of the tornadoes, which +are so much spoken of by other navigators. On the 29th of the month, +between eight and nine o'clock at night, when our voyagers were near +the Cape of Good Hope, the whole sea, within the compass of their +sight, became at once, as it were, illuminated. The captain had been +formerly convinced, by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, that such +appearances in the ocean were occasioned by insects. Mr. Forster, +however, seemed disposed to adopt a different opinion. To determine +the question, our commander ordered some buckets of water to be drawn +up from alongside the ship, which were found full of an innumerable +quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin's +head, and quite transparent. Though no life was perceived in them, +there could be no doubt of their being living animals, when in their +own proper element: and Mr. Forster became now well satisfied that +they were the cause of the sea's illumination. + +On the 30th, the Resolution and Adventure anchored in Table Bay; soon +after which Captain Cook went on shore, and, accompanied by Captain +Furneaux, and the two Mr. Forsters, waited on Baron Plettenberg, the +governor of the Cape of Good Hope, who received the gentlemen with +great politeness, and promised them every assistance the place could +afford. From him our commander learned, that two French ships from the +Mauritius, about eight months before, had discovered land in the +latitude of 48° south, along which they sailed forty miles, till they +came to a bay, into which they were upon the point of entering, when +they were driven off, and separated in a hard gale of wind. Previously +to this misfortune, they had lost some of their boats and people, that +had been sent to sound the bay. Captain Cook was also informed by +Baron Plettenberg, that in the month of March, two other ships from +the island of Mauritius, had touched at the Cape in their way to the +South Pacific Ocean; where they were going to make discoveries, under +the command of M. Marion. + +From the healthy condition of the crews, both of the Resolution and +Adventure, it was imagined by the captain that his stay at the Cape +would be very short. But the necessity of waiting till the requisite +provisions could be prepared and collected, kept him more than three +weeks at this place; which time was improved by him in ordering both +the ships to be caulked and painted, and in taking care that, in every +respect, their condition should be as good as when they left England. + +On the 22d of November, our commander sailed from the Cape of Good +Hope, and proceeded on his voyage, in search of a southern continent. +Having gotten clear of the land, he directed his course for Cape +Circumcision; and, judging that cold weather would soon approach, he +ordered slops to be served to such of the people as were in want of +them, and gave to each man the fear-nought jacket and trowsers allowed +by the admiralty. On the 29th, the wind, which was west-north-west, +increased to a storm, that continued, with some few intervals of +moderate weather, till the 6th of December. By this gale, which was +attended with hail and rain, and which blew at times with such +violence that the ships could carry no sails, our voyagers were driven +far to the eastward of their intended course, and no hopes were left +to the captain of reaching Cape Circumcision. A still greater +misfortune was the loss of the principal part of the live stock on +board, consisting of sheep, hogs, and geese. At the same time, the +sudden transition from warm mild weather, to weather which was +extremely cold and wet, was so severely felt by our people, that it +was necessary to make some addition to their allowance of spirits, by +giving each of them a dram on particular occasions. + +Our navigators, on the 10th of December, began to meet with islands of +ice. One of these islands was so much concealed from them by the +haziness of the weather, accompanied with snow and sleet, that they +were steering directly towards it, and did not see it till it was at a +less distance than that of a mile. Captain Cook judged it to be about +fifty feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It was flat at the top, +and its sides rose in a perpendicular direction, against which the sea +broke to a great height. The weather continuing to be hazy, the +captain, on account of the ice islands, was obliged to proceed with +the utmost caution. Six of them were passed on the 12th, some of which +were nearly two miles in circuit, and sixty feet high; nevertheless, +such were the force and height of the waves, that the sea broke quite +over them. Hence was exhibited a view, that for a few moments was +pleasing to the eye; but the pleasure was soon swallowed up in the +horror which seized upon the mind, from the prospect of danger. For if +a ship should be so unfortunate as to get on the weather side of one +of these islands, she would be dashed to pieces in a moment. + +The vessels, on the 14th, were stopped by an immense field of low ice, +to which no end could be seen, either to the east, west, or south. In +different parts of this field were islands or hills of ice, like those +which our voyagers had found floating in the sea, and twenty of which +had presented themselves to view the day before. Some of the people on +board imagined that they saw land over the ice, and Captain Cook +himself at first entertained the same sentiment. But upon more +narrowly examining these ice hills, and the various appearances they +made when seen through the haze, he was induced to change his opinion. +On the 18th, though in the morning our navigators had been quite +imbayed, they were, notwithstanding, at length enabled to get clear of +the field of ice. They were, however, at the same time, carried in +among the ice islands, which perpetually succeeded one another; which +were almost equally dangerous; and the avoiding of which was a matter +of the greatest difficulty. But perilous as it is to sail in a thick +fog, among these floating rocks, as our commander properly called +them; this is preferable to the being entangled with immense fields of +ice under the same circumstances. In this latter case the great danger +to be apprehended, is the getting fast in the ice; a situation which +would be alarming in the highest degree. + +It had been a generally received opinion, that such ice as hath now +been described, is formed in bays and rivers. Agreeably to this +supposition, our voyagers were led to believe that land was not far +distant, and that it lay to the southward behind the ice. As, +therefore, they had sailed above thirty leagues along the edge of the +ice, without finding a passage to the south, Captain Cook determined +to run thirty or forty leagues to the east, and afterward to endeavour +to get to the southward. If, in this attempt, he met with no land or +other impediment, his design was to stretch behind the ice, and thus +to bring the matter to a decision. The weather, at this time, affected +the senses with a feeling of cold much greater than that which was +pointed out by the thermometer, so that the whole crew complained. In +order the better to enable them to sustain the severity of the cold, +the Captain directed the sleeves of their jackets to be lengthened +with baize; and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, +strengthened with canvass. These precautions greatly contributed to +their comfort and advantage. It is worthy of observation, that +although the weather was as sharp, on the 25th of December, as might +have been expected, in the same month of the year, in any part of +England, this was the middle of summer with our navigators. Some of +the people now appearing to have symptoms of the scurvy, fresh wort +was given them every day, prepared under the direction of the +surgeons, from the malt which had been provided for the purpose. + +By the 29th, it became sufficiently ascertained, from the course our +commander had pursued, that the field of ice, along which the ships +had sailed, did not join to any land as had been conjectured. At this +time, Captain Cook came to a resolution, provided he met with no +impediment, to run as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumcision. +While he was prosecuting this design, a gale arose, on the 31st, which +brought with it such a sea, as rendered it very dangerous for the +vessels to remain among the ice; and the danger was increased by +discovering an immense field to the north, which extended farther than +the eye could reach. As our voyagers were not above two or three miles +from this field, and were surrounded by loose ice, there was no time +to deliberate. They hauled to the South; and though they happily got +clear, it was not till the ships had received several hard knocks from +the loose pieces, which were of the largest kind. On Friday, the 1st +of January, 1773, the gale abated; and on the next day, in the +afternoon, our people had the felicity of enjoying the sight of the +moon, the face of which had not been seen by them but once since they +had departed from the Cape of Good Hope. Hence a judgment may be +formed of the sort of weather they had been exposed to, from the time +of their leaving that place. The present opportunity was eagerly +seized, for making several observations of the sun and moon. + +Captain Cook was now nearly in the same longitude which is assigned to +Cape Circumcision, and about ninety-five leagues to the south of the +latitude in which it is said to lie. At the same time the weather was +so clear, that land might have been seen at the distance of fourteen +or fifteen leagues. He concluded it, therefore, to be very probable, +that what Bouvet took for land was nothing but mountains of ice, +surrounded by loose or field ice. Our present navigators had naturally +been led into a similar mistake. The conjecture, that such ice as had +lately been seen was joined to land, was a very plausible one, though +not founded on fact. Upon the whole, there was good reason to believe, +that no land was to be met with, under this meridian, between the +latitude of fifty-five and fifty-nine, where some had been supposed to +exist. + +Amidst the obstructions Captain Cook was exposed to, from the ice +islands which perpetually succeeded each other, he derived one +advantage from them, and that was, a supply of fresh water. Though the +melting and stowing away of the ice takes up some time, and is, +indeed, rather tedious, this method of watering is otherwise the most +expeditious our commander had ever known. The water produced was +perfectly sweet and well tasted. Upon the ice islands, penguins, +albatrosses, and other birds were frequently seen. It had hitherto +been the received opinion, that such birds never go far from land, and +that the sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. That this +opinion is not well founded, at least where ice islands exist, was now +evinced by multiplied experience. + +By Sunday the 17th of January, Captain Cook reached the latitude of +67° 15' south, when he could advance no farther. At this time the ice +was entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent from east to +west-south-west, without the least appearance of any opening. The +captain, therefore, thought it no longer prudent to persevere in +sailing southward; especially as the summer was already half spent, +and there was little reason to hope that it would be found practicable +get round the ice. Having taken this resolution, he determined to +proceed directly in search of the land which had lately been +discovered by the French; and as, in pursuing his purpose, the weather +was clear at intervals, he spread the ships abreast four miles from +each other, in order the better to investigate any thing that might +lie in their way. On the 1st of February our voyagers were in the +latitude of 48° 30' south, and in longitude 58° 7' east, nearly in the +meridian of the island of St. Mauritius. This was the situation in +which the land said to have been discovered by the French was to be +expected; but as no signs of it had appeared, our commander bore away +to the east. Captain Furneaux, on the same day, informed Captain Cook, +that he had just seen a large float of sea, or rock weed, and about it +several of the birds called divers. These were certain signs of the +vicinity of land, though whether it lay to the east or west could not +possibly be known. Our commander, therefore, formed the design of +proceeding in his present latitude four or five degrees of longitude +to the west of the meridian he was now in, and then to pursue his +researches eastward. The west and north-west winds, which had +continued for some days, prevented him from carrying this purpose into +execution. However, he was convinced from the perpetual high sea he +had lately met with, that there could be no great extent of land to +the west. + +While Captain Cook, on the next day, was steering eastward, Captain +Furneaux told him that he thought the land was to the north-west of +them; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth, when the +wind blew in that direction. This observation was by no means +conformable to the remarks which had been made by our commander +himself. Nevertheless, such was his readiness to attend to every +suggestion, that he resolved to clear up the point, if the wind would +admit of his getting to the west in any reasonable time. The wind, by +veering to the north, did admit of his pursuing the search; and the +result of it was, his conviction that if any land was near, it could +only be an island of no considerable extent. + +Captain Cook and his philosophical friends, while they were traversing +this part, of the southern ocean, paid particular attention to the +variation of the compass, which they found to be from 27° 50' to 30° +26' west. Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29° 4', was the +nearest the truth, as it coincided with the variation observed on +board the Adventure. One unaccountable circumstance is worthy of +notice, though it did not now occur for the first time. It is, that +when the sun was on the starboard of the ship, the variation was the +least; and when on the larboard side, the greatest. + +On the 8th, our commander, in consequence of no signals having been +answered by the Adventure, had reason to apprehend that a separation +had taken place. After waiting two days, during which guns were kept +discharging, and false fires were burned in the night, the fact was +confirmed; so that the Resolution was obliged to proceed alone in her +voyage. As she pursued her course, penguins and other birds, from time +to time, appeared in great numbers; the meeting with which gave our +navigators some hopes of finding land, and occasioned various +speculations with regard to its situation. Experience, however, +convinced them, that no stress was to be laid on such hopes. They were +so often deceived, that they could no longer look upon any of the +oceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of the +vicinity of land. + +In the morning of the 17th, between midnight and three o'clock, lights +were seen in the heavens, similar to those which are known in the +northern hemisphere, by the name of the Aurora Borealis. Captain Cook +had never heard that an Aurora Australis had been seen before. The +officer of the watch observed, that it sometimes broke out in spiral +rays, and in a circular form; at which time, its light was very +strong, and its appearance beautiful. It was not perceived to have any +particular direction. On the contrary, at various times, it was +conspicuous in different parts of the heavens, and diffused its light +throughout the whole atmosphere. + +On the 20th, our navigators imagined that they saw land to the +south-west. Their conviction of its real existence was so strong, that +they had no doubt of the matter; and accordingly they endeavoured to +work up to it, in doing which the weather was favourable to their +purpose. However what had been taken for land proved only to be +clouds, that in the evening entirely disappeared, and left a clear +horizon, in which nothing could be discerned but ice islands. At night +the Aurora Australis was again seen, and the appearance it assumed was +very brilliant and luminous. It first discovered itself in the east, +and in a short time spread over the whole heavens. + +In the night of the 23rd, when the ship was in latitude 61° 52' south, +and longitude 95° 2' east, the weather being exceedingly stormy, +thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, our voyagers were on every side +surrounded with danger. In such a situation it was natural for them to +wish for daylight: but daylight, when it came, served only to increase +their apprehensions, by exhibiting those huge mountains of ice to +their view, which the darkness had prevented them from seeing. These +unfavourable circumstances, at so advanced a season of the year, +discouraged Captain Cook from putting into execution a resolution he +had formed, of once more crossing the antarctic circle. Accordingly, +early in the morning of the 24th, he stood to the north, with a very +hard gale, and a very high sea, which made great destruction among the +ice islands. But so far was this incident from being of any advantage +to our navigators, that it greatly increased the number of pieces they +had to avoid. The large pieces, which broke from the ice islands, were +found to be much more dangerous than the islands themselves. While the +latter rose so high out of the water, that they could generally be +seen, unless the weather was very thick and hazy, before our people +nearly approached them, the others could not be discerned, in the +night, till they were under the ship's bows. These dangers, however, +were now become so familiar to the captain and his company, that the +apprehensions they caused were never of long duration; and a +compensation was, in some degree, made for them, by the seasonable +supplies of fresh water, which the ice islands afforded, and by their +very romantic appearance. The foaming and dashing of the waves into +the curious holes and caverns which were formed in many of them +greatly heightened the scene; and the whole exhibited a view, that at +once filled the mind with admiration and horror, and could only be +described by the hand of an able painter. + +In sailing from the 25th to the 28th, the wind was accompanied with a +large hollow sea, which rendered Captain Cook certain, that no land, +of any considerable extent, could lie within a hundred or a hundred +and fifty leagues from east to south-west. Though this was still the +summer season in that part of the world, and the weather was become +somewhat warmer than it had been before, yet such were the effects of +the cold, that a sow having farrowed nine pigs in the morning, all of +them, notwithstanding the utmost care to prevent it, were killed +before four o'clock in the afternoon. From the same cause, the captain +himself and several of his people had their fingers and toes +chilblained. For some days afterward, the cold considerably abated; +but still it could not be said that there was summer weather, +according to our commander's ideas of summer in the northern +hemisphere, as far as sixty degrees of latitude, which was nearly as +far as he had then been. + +As he proceeded on his voyage, from the 28th of February to the 11th +of March, he had ample reason to conclude, from the swell of the sea +and other circumstances, that there could be no land to the south, but +what must lie at a great distance. + +The weather having been clear on the 13th and 14th, Mr. Wales had an +opportunity of getting some observations of the sun and moon; the +results of which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58° 22' +south, gave 136° 22' east longitude. Mr. Kendal's and Mr. Arnold's +watches gave each of them 134° 42'; and this was the first and only +time in which they had pointed out the same longitude, since the ships +had departed from England. The greatest difference, however, between +them, since our voyagers had left the Cape, had not much exceeded two +degrees. + +From the moderate, and what might almost be called pleasant weather, +which had occurred for two or three days, Captain Cook began to wish +that he had been a few degrees of latitude farther south; and he was +even tempted to incline his course that way. But he soon met with +weather which convinced him that he had proceeded full far enough; and +that the time was approaching when these seas could not be navigated +without enduring intense cold. As he advanced in his course, he became +perfectly assured, from repeated proofs, that he had left no land +behind him in the direction of west-south-west; and that no land lay +to the south on this side sixty degrees of latitude. He came, +therefore, to a resolution, on the 17th, to quit the high southern +latitudes, and to proceed to New Zealand, with a view of looking for +the Adventure, and of refreshing his people. He had, also, some +thoughts, and even a desire, of visiting the east coast of Van +Dieman's Land, in order to satisfy himself whether it joined the coast +of New South Wales. The wind however, not permitting him to execute +this part of his design, he shaped his course for New Zealand, in +sight of which he arrived on the 25th, and where he came to anchor on +the day following, in Dusky Bay. He had now been a hundred and +seventeen days at sea, during which time he had sailed three thousand +six hundred and sixty-leagues without having once come within sight of +land. + +After so long a voyage, in a high southern latitude, it might +reasonably have been expected, that many of Captain Cook's people +would be ill of the scurvy. This, however, was not the case. So +salutary were the effects of the sweet wort, and several articles of +provision, and especially of the frequent airing and sweetening of the +ship, that there was only one man on board who could be said to be +much afflicted with the disease; and even in that man, it was chiefly +occasioned by a bad habit of body, and a complication of other +disorders. + +As our commander did not like the place in which he had anchored, he +sent Lieutenant Pickersgill over to the south-east side of the bay, in +search of a better; and the lieutenant succeeded in finding a harbour +that was in every respect desirable. In the meanwhile, the +fishing-boat was very successful; returning with fish sufficient for +the whole crew's supper and in the morning of the next day, as many +were caught as served for dinner. Hence were derived certain hopes of +being plentifully supplied with this article. Nor did the shores and +woods appear more destitute of wild fowl; so that our people had the +prospect of enjoying, with ease, what, in their situation, might be +called the luxuries of life. These agreeable circumstances determined +Captain Cook to stay some time in the bay, in order to examine it +thoroughly; as no one had ever landed before on any of the southern +parts of New Zealand. + +On the 27th, the ship entered Pickersgill Harbour; for so it was +called, from the name of the gentleman by whom it had first been +discovered. Here wood, for fuel and other purposes, was immediately at +hand; and a fine stream of fresh water was not above a hundred yards +from the stern of the vessel. Our voyagers, being thus advantageously +situated, began vigorously to prepare for their necessary occupations +by clearing places in the woods, in order to set up the astronomer's +observatory, and the forge for the iron work, and to erect tents for +the sailmakers and coopers. They applied themselves, also, to the +brewing of beer from the branches or leaves of a tree, which greatly +resembled the American black spruce. Captain Cook was persuaded, from +the knowledge which he had of this tree, and from the similarity it +bore to the spruce, that, with the addition of inspissated juice of +wort and molasses, it would make a very wholesome liquor, and supply +the want of vegetables, of which the country was destitute. It +appeared, by the event, that he was not mistaken in his judgment. + +Several of the natives were seen on the 28th, who took little notice +of the English, and were very shy of access; and the captain did not +choose to force an intercourse with them, as he had been instructed, +by former experience, that the best method of obtaining was to leave +time and place to themselves. While our commander continued in his +present situation, he took every opportunity of examining the bay. As +he was prosecuting his survey of it, on the 6th of April, his +attention was directed to the north side, where he discovered a fine +capacious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh-water river. On the +west side are several beautiful cascades; and the shores are so steep +that water might directly be conveyed from them into the ship. +Fourteen ducks, besides, other birds, having been shot in this place, +he gave it the name of Duck Cove. When he was returning in the +evening, he met with three of the natives, one man and two women, +whose fears he soon dissipated, and whom he engaged in a conversation, +that was little understood on either side. The youngest of the women +had a volubility of tongue that could not be exceeded; and she +entertained Captain Cook, and the gentlemen who accompanied him with a +dance. + +By degrees, our commander obtained the good will and confidence of the +Indians. His presents, however, were at first received with much +indifference, hatchets and spike-nails excepted. At a visit, on the +12th, from a family of the natives, the captain, perceiving they +approached the ship with great caution, met them in a boat, which he +quitted when he came near them, and went into their canoe. After all, +he could not prevail upon them to go on board the Resolution; but at +length they put on shore in a little creek, and seating themselves +abreast the English vessel, entered into familiar conversation with +several of the officers and seamen; in which they paid a much greater +regard to some, whom they probably mistook for females, than to +others. So well indeed, were they now reconciled to our voyagers, that +they took up their quarters nearly within the distance of a hundred +yards from the ship's watering place. Captain Cook, in his interview +with them, had caused the bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum to +beat. The two former they heard with apparent insensibility; but the +latter excited in them a certain degree of attention. + +On the 18th, a chief, with whom some connexions had already been +formed, was induced, together with his daughter, to come on board the +Resolution. Previously to his doing it, he presented the captain with +a piece of cloth and a green talk hatchet. He gave also a piece of +cloth to Mr. Forster; and the girl gave another to Mr. Hodges. Though +this custom of making presents, before any are received, is common +with the natives of the South Sea isles, our commander had never till +now seen it practised in New Zealand. Another thing performed by the +chief before he went on board was the taking of a small green branch +in his hand, with which he struck the ship's side several times, +repeating a speech or prayer. This manner, as it were, of making peace +is likewise prevalent among all the nations of the South Seas. When +the chief was carried into the cabin, he viewed every part of it with +some degree of surprise; but it was not possible to fix his attention +to any one object for a single moment. The works of art appeared to +him in the same light as those of nature, and were equally distant +from his powers of comprehension. He and his daughter seemed to be the +most struck with the number of the decks, and other parts of the ship. + +As Captain Cook proceeded in examining Dusky Bay, he occasionally met +with some few more of the natives, with regard to whom he used every +mode of conciliation. On the 20th the chief and his family, who had +been more intimate with our navigators than any of the rest of the +Indians, went away, and never returned again. This was the more +extraordinary, as in all his visits he had been gratified with +presents. From different persons, he had gotten nine or ten hatchets, +and three or four times that number of large spike nails, besides a +variety of other articles. So far as these things might be deemed +riches in New Zealand, he was undoubtedly become by far the most +wealthy man in the whole country. + +One employment of our voyagers, while in Dusky Bay, consisted in seal +hunting, an animal which was found serviceable for three purposes. The +skins were made use of for rigging, the fat afforded oil for the +lamps, and the flesh was eaten. On the 24th, the captain, having five +geese remaining of those he had brought with him from the Cape of Good +Hope, went and left them at a place to which he gave the name of Goose +Cove. This place he fixed upon for two reasons; first, because there +were no inhabitants to disturb them; and, secondly, because here was +the greatest supply of proper food; so that he had no doubt of their +breeding, hoped that in time they might spread over the whole country, +to its eminent advantage. Some days afterward, when everything +belonging to the ship had been removed from the shore, he set fire to +the top-wood in order to dry a piece of ground, which he dug up, and +sowed with several sorts of garden seeds. The soil, indeed, was not +such as to promise much success to the planter; but it was the best +that could be discovered. + +The 25th of April was the eighth fair day our people had successively +enjoyed; and there was reason to believe that such a circumstance was +very uncommon in the place where they now lay, and at that season of +the year. This favourable weather afforded them the opportunity of +more speedily completing their wood and water, and of putting the ship +into a condition for sea. On the evening of the 25th, it began to +rain; and the weather was afterwards extremely variable, being, at +times, in a high degree wet, cold, and stormy. Nothing, however, +prevented Captain Cook from prosecuting, with his usual sagacity and +diligence, his search into every part of Dusky Bay; and, as there are +few places in New Zealand where necessary refreshments may be so +plentifully obtained, as in this bay, he hath taken care to give such +a description of it, and of the adjacent country, as may be of service +to succeeding navigators. Although this country lies far remote from +what is now the trading part of the world, yet, as he justly observes, +we can by no means tell what use future ages may derive from the +discoveries made in the present. + +The various anchoring places are delineated on our commander's chart, +and the most convenient of them he has particularly described. Not +only about Dusky Bay, but through all the southern part of the western +coast of Tavai-poenammo, the country is exceedingly mountainous. A +prospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with; for, inland, +there are only to be seen the summits of mountains of a tremendous +height, and consisting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, +excepting where they are covered with snow. But the land which borders +on the sea-coast is thickly clothed with wood almost down to the +water's edge; and this is the case with regard to all the adjoining +islands. The trees are of various kinds, and are fit for almost every +possible use. Excepting in the river Thames, Captain Cook had not +found finer timber in all New Zealand; the most considerable species +of which is the spruce tree; for that name he had given it, from the +similarity of its foliage to the American spruce, though the wood is +more ponderous, and bears a greater resemblance to the pitch pine. +Many of these trees are so large, that they would be able to furnish +mainmasts for fifty-gun ships. Amidst the variety of aromatic trees +and shrubs which this part of New Zealand produced, there was none +which bore fruit fit to be eaten. The country was not found so +destitute of quadrupeds as was formerly imagined. + +As Dusky Bay presented many advantages to our navigators, so it was +attended with some disagreeable circumstances. There were great +numbers of small black sandflies, which were troublesome to a degree +that our commander had never experienced before. Another evil arose +from the continual quantity of rain that occurred in the bay. This +might, indeed, in part proceed from the season of the year: but it is +probable that the country must at all times be subject to much wet +weather, in consequence of the vast height and vicinity of the +mountains. It was remarkable that the rain, though our people were +perpetually exposed to it, was not productive of any evil +consequences. On the contrary, such of the men as were sick and +complaining when they entered the bay, recovered daily, and the whole +crew soon became strong and vigorous. So happy a circumstance could +only be attributed to the healthiness of the place, and the fresh +provisions it afforded; among which the beer was a very material +article. + +The inhabitants of Dusky Bay are of the same race with the other +natives of New Zealand, speak the same language, and adhere nearly to +the same customs. Their mode of life appears to be a wandering one; +and though they are few in number, no traces were remarked of their +families being connected together In any close bonds of union or +friendship. + +While the Resolution lay in the bay, Mr. Wales made a variety of +scientific observations relative to latitude and longitude, the +variation of the compass, and the diversity of the tides. + +When Captain Cook left Dusky Bay, he directed his course for Queen +Charlotte's Sound, where he expected to find the Adventure. This was +on the 11th of May, and nothing remarkable occurred till the 17th, +when the wind at once flattened to a calm, the sky became suddenly +obscured by dark dense clouds, and there was every prognostication of +a tempest. Soon after, six waterspouts were seen, four of which rose +and spent themselves between the ship and the land; the fifth was at a +considerable distance, on the other side of the vessel; and the sixth, +the progressive motion of which was not in a straight, but in a +crooked line, passed within fifty yards of the stern of the +Resolution, without producing any evil effect. As the captain had been +informed that the firing of a gun would dissipate waterspouts, he was +sorry that he had not tried the experiment. But, though he was near +enough, and had a gun ready for the purpose, his mind was so deeply +engaged in viewing these extraordinary meteors, that he forgot to give +the necessary directions. + +On the next day, the Resolution came within sight of Queen Charlotte's +Sound, where Captain Cook had the satisfaction of discovering the +Adventure; and both ships felt uncommon joy at thus meeting again +after an absence of fourteen weeks. As the events which happened to +Captain Furneaux, during the separation of the two vessels, do not +fall within the immediate design of the present narrative, it may be +sufficient to observe, that he had an opportunity of examining, with +somewhat more accuracy than had hitherto been done, Van Dieman's Land, +and his opinion was, that there are no straits between this land and +New Holland, but a very deep bay. He met, likewise, with farther +proofs, that the natives of New Zealand are eaters of human flesh. + +The morning after Captain Cook's arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, +he went himself, at daybreak, to look for scurvy-grass, celery, and +other vegetables; and he had the good fortune to return with a +boatload, in a very short space of time. Having found, that a +sufficient quantity of these articles might be obtained for the crews +of both the ships, he gave orders that they should be boiled with +wheat and portable broth, every day for breakfast; and with pease and +broth for dinner. Experience had taught him, that the vegetables now +mentioned, when thus dressed, are extremely beneficial to seamen, in +removing the various scorbutic complaints to which they are subject. + +Our commander had entertained a desire of visiting Van Dieman's Land, +in order to inform himself whether it made a part of New Holland. But +as this point had been, in a great measure, cleared up by Captain +Furneaux, he came to a resolution to continue his researches to the +east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46°; and he directed +accordingly, that the ships should be gotten ready for putting to sea +as soon as possible. On the 20th, he sent on shore the only ewe and +ram that remained of those which, with the intention of leaving them +in this country, he had brought from the Cape of Good Hope. Soon after +he visited several gardens, that by order of captain Furneaux had been +made and planted with various articles; all of which were in such a +flourishing state, that, if duly attended to, they promised to be of +great utility to the natives. The next day, Captain Cook himself set +some men to work to form a garden on Long Island, which he stocked +with different seeds, and particularly with the roots of turnips, +carrots, parsnips, and potatoes. These were the vegetables that would +be of the most real use to the Indians, and of these it was easy to +give them an idea, by comparing them with such roots as they +themselves knew. On the 22nd, Captain Cook received the unpleasant +intelligence, that the ewe and ram, which with so much care and +trouble he had brought to this place, were both of them found dead. It +was supposed that they had eaten some poisonous plant; and by this +accident all the captain's hopes of stocking New Zealand with a breed +of sheep were instantly blasted. + +The intercourse which our great navigator had with the inhabitants of +the country, during this his second visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, +was of a friendly nature. Two or three families took up their abode +near the ships, and employed themselves daily in fishing, and in +supplying the English with the fruits of their labour. No small +advantage hence accrued to our people, who were by no means such +expert fishers as the natives, nor were any of our methods of fishing +equal to theirs. Thus, in almost every state of society, particular +arts of life are carried to perfection; and there is something which +the most polished nations may learn from the most barbarous. + +On the 2nd of June, when the Resolution and Adventure were almost +ready to put to sea, Captain Cook sent on shore, on the east side of +the sound, two goats, a male and female; and Captain Furneaux left, +near Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows. The gentlemen had +little doubt but that the country would, in time, be stocked with +these animals, provided they were not destroyed by the Indians before +they became wild. Afterwards there would be no danger; and as the +natives knew nothing of their being left behind, it was hoped that it +might be some time before they would be discovered. + +It is remarkable that, during Captain Cook's second visit to Charlotte +Sound, he was not able to recollect the face of any one person whom he +had seen there three years before. Nor did it once appear, that even a +single Indian had the least knowledge of our commander, or of any of +our people who had been with him in his last voyage. Hence he thought +it highly probable, that the greatest part of the natives who +inhabited this sound to the beginning of the year 1770, had either +since been driven out of it, or had removed, of their own accord, to +some other situation. Not one-third of the inhabitants were there now, +that had been seen at that time. Their strong hold on the point of +Motuara was deserted, and in every part of the sound many forsaken +habitations were discovered. In the captain's opinion, there was not +any reason to believe, that the place had ever been very populous. +From comparing the two voyages together, it may be collected that the +Indians of Eahei-nomauwe are in somewhat of a more improved state of +society than those of Tavai-poenammo. + +Part of the 4th of June was employed by Captain Cook in visiting a +chief and a whole tribe of the natives, consisting of between ninety +and a hundred persons, including men, women and children. After the +captain had distributed some presents among these people, and shewn to +the chief the gardens which had been made, he returned on board, and +spent the remainder of the day in the celebration of his royal +master's nativity. Captain Furneaux and all his officers were invited +upon the occasion; and the seamen were enabled, by a double allowance, +to partake of the general joy. + +As some might think it an extraordinary step in our commander, to +proceed in discoveries so far south as forty-six degrees of latitude +in the very depth of winter, he has recorded his motives for this part +of his conduct. Winter, he acknowledges, is by no means favourable for +discoveries. Nevertheless, it appeared to him to be necessary that +something should be done in that season, in order to lessen the work +in which he was engaged; and lest he should not be able to finish the +discovery of the southern part of the south Pacific Ocean in the +ensuing summer. Besides, if he should discover any land in his route +to the east, he would be ready to begin to explore it, as soon as ever +the season should be favourable. Independently of all these +considerations, he had little to fear; having two good ships well +provided, and both the crews being healthy. Where then could he better +employ his time? If he did nothing more, he was at least in hopes of +being enabled to point out to posterity, that these seas may be +navigated, and that it is practicable to pursue discoveries even in +the depth of winter. Such was the ardour of our navigator for +prosecuting the ends of his voyage, in circumstances which would have +induced most men to act a more cautious part! + +During Captain Cook's stay in the sound, he had observed, that the +second visit to this country had not mended the morals of the natives +of either sex. He had always looked upon the females of New Zealand as +more chaste than the generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a +few of them might have granted to the people in the Endeavour, such +intercourse usually took place in a private manner, and did not appear +to be encouraged by the men. But now the captain was told, that the +male Indians were the chief promoters of this shameful traffic, and +that, for a spikenail, or any other thing they valued, they would +oblige the women to prostitute themselves, whether it were agreeable +or contrary to their inclinations. At the same time no regard was paid +to the privacy which decency required. The account of this fact must +be read with concern by every wellwisher to the good order and +happiness of society, even without adverting to considerations of a +higher nature. + +On the 7th of June, Captain Cook put to sea from Queen Charlotte's +Sound, with the Adventure in company. I shall omit the nautical part +of the route from New Zealand to Otaheite, which continued till the +15th of August; and shall only select such circumstances as are more +immediately suitable to the design of the present narrative. It was +found, on the 29th of July, that the crew of the Adventure were in a +sickly state. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were +rendered incapable of duty by the scurvy and flux. At this time, no +more than three men were on the sick list on board the Resolution; and +only one of these was attacked with the scurvy. Some others, however, +began to discover the symptoms of it; and, accordingly, recourse was +had to wort, marmalade of carrots, and the rob of lemons and oranges, +with the usual success. + +Captain Cook could not account for the prevalence of the scurvy being +so much greater in the Adventure than in the Resolution, unless it was +owing to the crew of the former being more scorbutic when they arrived +in New Zealand than the crew of the latter, and to their eating few or +no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. This arose +partly from their want of knowing the right sorts, and partly from the +dislike which seamen have to the introduction of a new diet. Their +aversion to any unusual change of food is so great, that it can only +be overcome by the steady and persevering example and authority of a +commander. Many of Captain Cook's people, officers as well as common +sailors, disliked the boiling of celery, scurvy-grass, and other +greens with pease and wheat; and by some the provision, thus prepared, +was refused to be eaten. But, as this had no effect on the captain's +conduct, their prejudice gradually subsided: they began to like their +diet as much as the rest of their companions; and, at length, there +was hardly a man in the ship who did not attribute the freedom of the +crew from the scurvy, to the beer and vegetables which had been made +use of at New Zealand. Henceforward, whenever the seamen came to a +place where vegetables could be obtained, our commander seldom found +it necessary to order them to be gathered; and, if they were scarce, +happy was the person who could lay hold on them first. + +On the 1st of August, when the ships were in the latitude of 25° 1', +and the longitude of 130° 6' west, they were nearly in the same +situation with that which is assigned by Captain Carteret for +Pitcairn's Island, discovered by him in 1767. For this island, +therefore, our voyagers diligently looked; but saw nothing. According +to the longitude in which he had placed it, Captain Cook must have +passed it fifteen leagues to the west. But as this was uncertain, he +did not think it prudent to lose any time in searching for it, as the +sickly state of the Adventure's people required as speedy an arrival +as possible at a place of refreshment. A sight of it, however, would +have been of use in verifying or correcting, not only the longitude of +Pitcairn's Island, but of the others discovered by Captain Carteret in +that neighbourhood. It is a diminution of the value of that +gentleman's voyage, that his longitude was not confirmed by +astronomical observations, and that hence it was liable to errors, the +correction of which was out of his power. + +As Captain Cook had now gotten to the northward of Captain Carteret's +tracks, he no longer entertained any hopes of discovering a continent. +Islands were all that he could expect to find, until he returned again +to the south. In this and his former voyage, he had crossed the ocean +in the latitude of 40° and upwards, without meeting any thing which +could, in the least, induce him to believe that he should attain the +great object of his pursuit. Every circumstance concurred to convince +him, that, between the meridian of America and New Zealand, there is +no southern continent; and that there is no continent farther to the +south, unless in a very high latitude. This, however; was a point too +important to be left to opinions and conjectures. It was to be +determined by facts; and the ascertainment of it was appointed, by our +commander, for the employment of the ensuing summer. + +It was the 6th of August before the ships had the advantage of the +trade wind. This they got at southeast, being at that time in the +latitude of 19° 36' south, and the longitude of 131° 32' west. As +Captain Cook had obtained the south east trade wind, he directed his +course to the west-north-west; not only with a view of keeping in with +the strength of the wind, but also to get to the north of the islands +discovered in his former voyage, that he might have a chance of +meeting with any other islands which might lie in the way. It was in +the track which had been pursued by M. de Bougainville that our +commander now proceeded. He was sorry that he could not spare time to +sail to the north of this track; but at present, on account of the +sickly state of the Adventure's crew, the arriving at a place where +refreshments could be procured was an object superior to that of +discovery. To four of the islands which were passed by Captain Cook, +he gave the names of Resolution Island, Doubtful Island, Furneaux +Island, and Adventure Island. They are supposed to be the same that +were seen by M. de Bougainville; and these with several others, which +constitute a cluster of low and half-drowned isles, that gentleman +distinguished by the appellation of the Dangerous Archipelago. The +smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced our navigators, that they +were surrounded by them, and that it was highly necessary to proceed +with the utmost caution, especially in the night. + +Early in the morning, on the 15th of August, the ships came within +sight of Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, which had been discovered by +Captain Wallis. Soon after, Captain Cook acquainted Captain Furneaux, +that it was his intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near the +south-east end of Otaheite, for the purpose of procuring what +refreshments he could from that part of the island, before he went +down to Matavai. At six to the evening the island was seen bearing +west; and our people continued to advance towards it till midnight, +when they brought to, till four o'clock in the morning; after which, +they sailed in for the land with a fine breeze at east. At day-break, +they found themselves within the distance of half a league from the +reef; and, at the same time, the breeze began to fail them, and was at +last succeeded by a calm. It now became necessary for the boats to be +hoisted out, in order to tow off the ships; but all the efforts of our +voyagers, to keep them from being carried near the reef, were +insufficient for the purpose. As the calm continued, the situation of +the vessels became still more dangerous. Captain Cook, however, +entertained hopes of getting round the western point of the reef and +into the bay. But, about two o'clock in the afternoon, when he came +before an opening or break of the reef, through which he had flattered +himself that he might get with the ships, he found, on sending to +examine it, that there was not a sufficient depth of water. +Nevertheless, this opening caused such an indraught of the tide of +flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to the Resolution; +for as soon as the vessels got into the stream, they were carried +towards the reef with great impetuosity. The moment the captain +perceived this, he ordered one of the warping machines, which was held +in readiness, to be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of +rope; but it did not produce the least effect: and our navigators had +now in prospect the horrors of shipwreck. They were not more than two +cables' length from the breakers; and, though it was the only probable +method which was left of saving the ships, they could find no bottom +to anchor. An anchor, however, they did drop; but before it took hold, +and brought them up, the Resolution was in less than three fathom +water and struck at every fall of the sea, which broke close under her +stern in a dreadful surf, and threatened her crew every moment with +destruction. Happily the Adventure brought up without striking. +Presently, the Resolution's people carried out two kedge-anchors, with +hawsers to each; and these found ground a little without the bower. By +heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower anchor, the ship was +gotten afloat, where Captain Cook and his men lay for some time in the +greatest anxiety, expecting every minute that either the kedges would +come home, or the hawsers be cut in two by the rocks. At length, the +tide ceased to act in the same direction: upon which the captain +ordered all the boats to try to tow off the vessel. Having found this +to be practicable, the two kedges were hove up; and at that moment a +light air came off from the land, by which the boats were so much +assisted, that the Resolution soon got clear of all danger. Our +commander then ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure; but +before they reached her, she was under sail with the land breeze, and +in a little time joined her companion, leaving behind her three +anchors, her coasting cable, and two hawsers, which were never +recovered. Thus were our voyagers once more safe at sea, after +narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island, at which, but a +few days before, they had most ardently wished to arrive. It was a +peculiarly happy circumstance, that the calm continued, after bringing +the ships into so dangerous a state; for if the sea breeze, as is +usually the ease, had set, in, the Resolution must inevitably have +been lost, and probably the Adventure likewise. During the time in +which the English were in this critical situation, a number of the +natives were either on board or near the vessel in their canoes. +Nevertheless, they seemed to be insensible of our people's danger, +shewing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when the ships were +striking; and they went away a little before sunset, quite +unconcerned. Though most of them knew Captain Cook again, and many +inquired for Mr. Banks and others who had been with the captain +before, it was remarkable that not one of them asked for Tupia. + +On the 17th the Resolution and Adventure anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, +immediately upon which they were crowded with the inhabitants of the +country, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananas, apples, +yams, and other roots, which were exchanged for nails and beads. To +some, who called themselves chiefs, our commander made presents of +shirts, axes, and several articles besides, in return for which they +promised to bring him hogs and fowls; a promise which they did not +perform, and which, as might be judged from their conduct, they had +never had the least intention of performing. In the afternoon of the +same day, Captain Cook landed in company with Captain Furneaux, for +the purpose of viewing the watering-place, and of sounding the +disposition of the natives. The article of water, which was now much +wanted on board, he found might conveniently he obtained, and the +inhabitants behaved with great civility. Notwithstanding this +civility, nothing was brought to market, the next day, but fruit and +roots, though it was said that many hogs were seen about the houses in +the neighbourhood. The cry was, that they belonged to Waheatoua, the +earee de hi, or king; who had not yet appeared, nor indeed, any other +chief of note. Among the Indians that came on board the Resolution, +and no small number of whom did not scruple to call themselves earees, +there was one of this sort, who had been entertained in the cabin most +of the day, and to all of whose friends Captain Cook had made +presents, as well as liberally to himself. At length, however, he was +caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out +of the quarter gallery. Various complaints of the like nature being, +at the same time, made against the natives who were on deck, our +commander turned them all out of the ship. His cabin guest was very +rapid in his retreat; and the captain was so exasperated at his +behaviour, that after the earee had gotten to some distance from the +Resolution, he fired two muskets over his head, by which he was so +terrified that he quitted his canoe and took to the water. Captain +Cook then sent a boat to take the canoe; but when the boat approached +the shore, the people on land began to pelt her with stones. The +captain, therefore, being in some pain for her safety, as she was +unarmed, went himself in another boat to protect her, and ordered a +great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coast, which made +all the Indians retire from the shore, and he was suffered to bring +away two canoes without the least show of opposition. In a few hours +peace was restored, and the canoes were returned to the first person +who came for them. + +It was not till the evening of this day, that any one inquired after +Tupia, and then the inquiry was made by only two or three of the +natives. When they learned the cause of his death, they were perfectly +satisfied; nor did it appear to our commander that they would have +felt a moment's uneasiness, if Tupia's decease had proceeded from any +other cause than sickness. They were as little concerned about +Aotourou, the man who had gone away with M. de Bougainville. But they +were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and for several others who had +accompanied Captain Cook in his former voyage. + +Since that voyage, very considerable changes had happened in the +country. Toutaha, the regent of the great peninsula of Otaheite, had +been killed, in a battle which was fought between the two kingdoms +about five months before the Resolution's arrival; and Otto was now +the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of the +principal friends to the English, had fallen in this battle, together +with a large number of the common people. A peace subsisted, at +present, between the two grand divisions of the island. + +On the 20th, one of the natives carried off a musket belonging to the +guard onshore. Captain Cook, who was himself a witness of the +transaction, sent out some of his people after him; but this would +have been to very little purpose, if the thief had not been +intercepted by several of his own countrymen, who pursued him +voluntarily, knocked him down, and returned the musket to the English. +This act of justice prevented our commander from being placed in a +disagreeable situation. If the natives had not given their immediate +assistance, it would scarcely have been in his power to have recovered +the musket, by any gentle means whatever; and if he had been obliged +to have recourse to other methods, he was sure of loosing more than +ten times its value. + +The fraud of one, who appeared as a chief, is, perhaps, not unworthy +of notice. This man, in a visit to Captain Cook, presented him with a +quantity of fruit; among which were a number of cocoa-nuts, that had +already been exhausted of their liquor by our people, and afterwards +thrown overboard. These the chief had picked up, and tied so artfully +in bundles, that at first the deception was not perceived. When he was +informed of it, without betraying the least emotion, and affecting a +total ignorance of the matter, he opened two or three of the nuts +himself, signified that he was satisfied of the fact, and then went on +shore and sent off a quantity of plantains and bananas. The ingenuity +and the impudence of fraud are not solely the production of polished +society. + +Captain Cook, on the 23rd, had an interview with Waheatoua, the result +of which was that our navigators obtained this day as much pork as +furnished a meal to the crews of both the vessels. In the captain's +last voyage, Waheatoua, who was then little more than a boy, was +called Tearee; but having succeeded to his father's authority, he had +assumed his father's name. + +The fruits that were procured at Oaiti-piha Bay contributed greatly to +the recovery of the sick people belonging to the Adventure. Many of +them, who had been so ill as to be incapable of moving without +assistance, were, in the compass of a few days, so far recovered that +they were able to walk about of themselves. When the Resolution +entered the bay, she had but one scorbutic man on board. A marine, who +had long been sick; and who died the second day after her arrival, of +a complication of disorders, had not the least mixture of the scurvy. + +On the 24th, the ships put to sea, and arrived the next evening in +Matavia Bay. Before they could come to an anchor, the decks were +crowded with the natives, many of whom Captain Cook knew, and by most +of whom he was well remembered. Among a large multitude of people, who +were collected together upon the shore, was Otoo, the king of the +island. Our commander paid him a visit on the following day, at +Oparree, the place of his residence; and found him to be a fine, +personable, well-made man, six feet high, and about thirty years of +age. The qualities of his mind were not correspondent to his external +appearance: for when Captain Cook endeavoured to obtain from him the +promise of a visit on board, he acknowledged that he was afraid of the +guns, and, indeed, manifested in all his actions that he was a prince +of a timorous disposition. + +Upon the captain's return from Oparree, he found the tents, and the +astronomer's observatories, set up, on the same spot from which the +transit of Venus had been observed in 1769. The sick, being twenty in +number from the Adventure, and one from the Resolution, all of whom +were ill of the scurvy, he ordered to be landed; and he appointed a +guard of marines on shore, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. + +On the 27th, Otoo was prevailed upon, with some degree of reluctance, +to pay our commander a visit. He came attended with a numerous train, +and brought with him fruits, a hog, two large fish, and a quantity of +cloth: for which he and all his retinue were gratified with suitable +presents. When Captain Cook conveyed his guests to land, he was met by +a venerable lady, the mother of the late Toutaha, who seized him by +both hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha tiyo +no toutee matty Toutaha_; that is, 'Toutaha, your friend, or the +friend of Cook, is dead.' He was so much affected with her behaviour, +that it would have been impossible for him to have refrained from +mingling his tears with hers, had not Otoo, who was displeased with +the interview, taken him from her. It was with difficulty that the +captain could obtain permission to see her again, when he gave her an +axe and some other articles. Captain Furneaux, at this time presented +the king with two fine goats, which, if no accident befell them, might +be expected to multiply. + +Several days had passed in a friendly intercourse with the natives, +and in the procuring provisions, when, in the evening of the 30th, the +gentlemen on board the Resolution were alarmed with the cry of murder, +and with a great noise on shore, near the bottom of the bay, and at a +distance from the English encampment. Upon this, Captain Cook, who +suspected that some of his own men were concerned in the affair, +immediately dispatched an armed boat, to know the cause of the +disturbance, and to bring off such of his people as should be found in +the place. He sent also, to the Adventure, and to the post on shore, +to learn who were missing: for none but those who were upon duty were +absent from the Resolution. The boats speedily returned with three +marines and a seaman. Some others, likewise, were taken, belonging to +the Adventure; and all of them being put under confinement, our +commander, the next morning, ordered them to be punished according to +their deserts. He did not find that any mischief had been done, and +the men would confess nothing. Some liberties which they had taken +with the women had probably given occasion to the disturbance. To +whatever cause it was owing, the natives were so much alarmed, that +they fled from their habitations in the dead of night, and the alarm +was spread many miles along the coast. In the morning, when Captain +Cook went to visit Otoo, by appointment, he found he had removed, or +rather fled, to a great distance from the usual place of his abode. +After arriving where he was, it was some hours before the captain +could be admitted to the sight of him; and then he complained of the +riot of the preceding evening. + +The sick being nearly recovered, the water completed, and the +necessary repairs of the ships finished, Captain Cook determined to +put to sea without delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, he +ordered every thing to be removed from the shore, and the vessels to +be unmoored, in which employment his people were engaged the greater +part of the day. In the afternoon of the same day, Lieutenant +Pickersgill returned from Attahourou, to which place he had been sent +by the captain, for the purpose of procuring some hogs that had been +promised. In this expedition, the lieutenant had seen the celebrated +Oberea, who has been so much the object of poetical fancy. Her +situation was very humble compared with what it had formerly been. She +was not only altered much for the worse in her person, but appeared to +be poor, and of little or no consequence or authority in the island. +In the evening, a favourable wind having sprung up, our commander put +to sea; on which occasion he was obliged to dismiss his Otaheite +friends sooner than they wished to depart; but well satisfied with his +kind and liberal treatment. + +From Matavai Bay, Captain Cook directed his course for the island of +Huaheine, where he intended to touch. This island he reached the next +day, and, early in the morning of the 3rd of September, made sail for +the harbour of Owharre, in which he soon came to an anchor. The +Adventure, not happening to turn into the harbour with equal facility, +got ashore on the north side of the channel; but, by the timely +assistance which Captain Cook had previously provided, in case such an +accident should occur, she was gotten off again, without receiving any +damage. As soon as both the ships were in safety, our commander; +together with Captain Furneaux, landed upon the island, and was +received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. A trade +immediately commenced; so that our navigators had a fair prospect of +being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and fowls, which, to people +in their situation, was a very desirable circumstance. On, the 4th, +Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a trading party, +toward the south end of the isle. Another trading party was also sent +on shore near the ships, which party Captain Cook attended himself, to +see that the business was properly conducted at the first setting out, +this being a point of no small importance. Every thing being settled +to his mind, he went, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and Mr. +Forster, to pay a visit to his old friend Oree, the chief of the +island. This visit was preceded by many preparatory ceremonies. Among +other things the chief sent to our commander the inscription engraved +on a small piece of pewter, which he had left with him in July, 1761. +It was in the bag that Captain Cook had made for it, together with a +piece of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, which had been put +in at the same time; whence it was evident what particular care had +been taken of the whole. After the previous ceremonies had been +discharged, the captain wanted to go to the king, but he was informed +that the king would come to him. Accordingly, Oree went up to our +commander, and fell on his neck, and embraced him; nor was it a +ceremonious embrace, for the tears which trickled down the venerable +old man's cheeks sufficiently bespoke the language of his heart. The +presents, which Captain Cook made to the chief on this occasion, +consisted of the most valuable articles he had; for he regarded him as +a father. Oree, in return, gave the captain a hog, and a quantity of +cloth, promising that all the wants of the English should be supplied; +and it was a promise to which he faithfully adhered. Indeed, he +carried his kindness to Captain Cook so far, as not to fail sending +him every day, for his table, a plentiful supply of the very best of +ready-dressed fruits and roots. + +Hitherto, all things had gone on in the most agreeable manner; but on +Monday, the 6th, several circumstances occurred, which rendered it an +unpleasant and troublesome day. When our commander went to the +trading-place, he was informed that one of the inhabitants had behaved +with remarkable insolence. The man was completely equipped in the war +habit, had a club in each hand, and seemed bent upon mischief. Captain +Cook took, therefore, the clubs from him, broke them before his eyes, +and with some difficulty compelled him to retire. About the same time, +Mr. Sparrman, who had imprudently gone out alone to botanize, was +assaulted by two men, who stripped him of every thing which he had +about him, excepting his trowsers, and struck him again and again with +his own hanger, though happily without doing him any harm. When they +had accomplished their purpose, they made off; after which another of +the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him +to the trading place, where the inhabitants, in a large number, were +assembled. The instant that Mr. Sparrman appeared in the condition now +described, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. Captain Cook, +having recalled a few of the Indians, and convinced them that he +should take no step to injure those who were innocent, went to Oree to +complain of the outrage. When the chief had heard the whole affair +related, he wept aloud, and many other of the inhabitants did the +same. After the first transports of his grief had subsided, he began +to expostulate with his people, telling them (for so his language was +understood by the English) how well Captain Cook had treated them both +in this and his former voyage, and how base it was in them to commit +such actions. He then took a minute account of the things of which Mr. +Sparrman had been robbed, and, after having promised to use his utmost +endeavours for the recovery of them, desired to go into the captain's +boat. At this, the natives, apprehensive doubtless for the safety of +their prince, expressed the utmost alarm, and used every argument to +dissuade him from so rash a measure. All their remonstrances, however, +were in vain. He hastened into the boat; and as soon as they saw that +their beloved chief was wholly in our commander's power, they set up a +great outcry. Indeed, their grief was inexpressible; they prayed, +entreated nay, attempted to pull him out of the boat; and every face +was bedewed with tears. Even Captain Cook himself was so moved by +their distress, that he united his entreaties with theirs, but all to +no purpose. Oree insisted upon the captain's coming into the boat, +which was no sooner done, than he ordered it to be put off. His sister +was the only person among the Indians who behaved with a becoming +magnanimity on this occasion; for, with a spirit equal to that of her +royal brother, she alone did not oppose his going. It was his design, +in coming into the boat of the English, to proceed with them in search +of the robbers. Accordingly, he went with Captain Cook, as far as it +was convenient, by water, when they landed, entered the country, and +travelled same miles inland; in doing which the chief led the way, and +inquired after the criminals of every person whom he saw. In this +search he would have gone to the very extremity of the island, if our +commander, who did not think the object worthy of so laborious a +pursuit, had not refused to proceed any farther. Besides, as he +intended to sail the next morning, and all manner of trade was stopped +in consequence of the alarm of the natives, it became the more +necessary for him to return, that he might restore things to their +former state. It was with great reluctance that Ores was prevailed +upon to discontinue the search, and to content himself with sending, +at Captain Cook's request, some of his people for the things which had +been carried off. When he and the captain had gotten back to the boat, +they found there the chief's sister, and several other persons, who +had travelled by land to the place. The English gentlemen immediately +stepped into their boat, in order to return on board, without so much +as asking Oree to accompany them; notwithstanding which, he insisted +upon doing it; nor could the opposition and entreaties of those who +were about him induce him to desist from his purpose. His sister +followed his example, uninfluenced, on this occasion, by the +supplications and tears of her daughter. Captain Cook amply rewarded +the chief and his sister for the confidence they had placed in him; +and, after dinner, conveyed them both on shore, where some hundreds of +people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced Oree with tears +of joy. All was now peace and gladness: the inhabitants crowded in +from every part, with such a plentiful supply of hogs, fowls, and +vegetable productions, that the English presently filled two boats; +and the chief himself presented the captain with a large hog, and a +quantity of fruit. Mr. Sparrman's hanger the only thing of value which +he had lost, was brought back, together with part of his coat; and our +navigators were told, that the remaining articles should be restored +the next day. Some things which had been stolen from a party of +officers, who had gone out a shooting, were returned in like manner. + +The transactions of this day have been the more particularly related, +as they shew the high opinion which the chief had formed of our +commander, and the unreserved confidence that he placed in his +integrity and honour. Oree had entered into a solemn friendship with +Captain Cook, according to all the forms which were customary in the +country; and he seemed to think, that this friendship could not be +broken by the act of any other persons. It is justly observed by the +captain, that another chief may never be found, who, under similar +circumstances, will act in the same manner. Oree, indeed, had nothing +to fear: for it was not our commander's intention to hurt a hair of +his head, or to detain him a moment longer than was agreeable to his +own desire. But of this how could he and his people be assured? They +were not ignorant, that when he was once in Captain Cook's power, the +whole force of the island would not be sufficient to recover him, and +that they must have complied with any demands, however great, for his +ransom. The apprehensions, therefore, of the inhabitants, for their +chief's and their own safety, had a reasonable foundation. + +Early on the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, the captain went to +pay his farewell visit to Oree, and took with him such presents as had +not only a fancied value, but a real utility. He left, also, with the +chief the inscription plate, that had been before in his possession, +and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved these words: +'Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's ships, Resolution and +Adventure, September, 1773.' These plates, together with some medals, +were put up in a bag; of which Oree promised to take care, and to +produce them to the first ship or ships that should arrive at the +island. Having, in return, given a hog to Captain Cook, and loaded his +boat with fruit, they took leave of each other, when the good old +chief embraced our commander with tears in his eyes. Nothing was +mentioned, at this interview, concerning the remainder of Mr. +Sparrman's property. As it was early in the morning, the captain +judged that it had not been brought in, and he was not willing to +speak of it to Oree, lest he should give him pain about things which +there had not been time to recover. The robbers having soon afterward +been taken, Oree came on board again, to request that our commander +would go on shore, either to punish them, or to be present at their +punishment; but this not being convenient to him, he left them to the +correction of their own chief. It was from the island of Huaheine that +Captain Furneaux received into his ship a young man named Omai, a +native of Ulietea, of whom so much hath since been known and written. +This choice Captain Cook at first disapproved; as thinking that the +youth was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of the Society +Islands; being inferior to many of them in birth and acquired rank, +and not having any peculiar advantage in point of shape, figure, or +complexion. The captain afterward found reason to be better satisfied +with Omai's having accompanied our navigators, to England. + +During the short stay of the vessels at Huaheine, our people were very +successful in obtaining supplies of provisions. No less than three +hundred hogs, besides fowls and fruit, were procured; and had the +ships continued longer at the place, the quantity might have been +greatly increased. Such was the fertility of this small island, that +none of these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but +appeared to be as plentiful as ever. + +From Huaheine our navigators sailed for Ulietea; where, trade was +carried on in the usual manner, and a most friendly intercourse +renewed between Captain Cook and Oree, the chief of the island. Here +Tupia was inquired after with particular eagerness, and the inquirers +were perfectly satisfied with the account which was given of the +occasion of that Indian's decease. + +On the morning of the 15th, the English were surprised at finding that +none of the inhabitants of Ulietea came off to the ships, as had +hitherto been customary. As two men belonging to the Adventure had +stayed on shore all night, contrary to orders, Captain Cook's first +conjectures were, that the natives had stripped them, and were afraid +of the revenge which would be taken of the insult. This, however, was +not the case. The men had been treated with great civility, and could +assign no cause for the precipitate flight of the Indians. All that +the captain could learn was, that several were killed and others +wounded, by the guns of the English This information alarmed him for +the safety of some of our people, who had been sent out in two boats +to the island of Otaha. He determined, therefore, it possible, to see +the chief himself. When he came up to him, Oree threw his arms around +our commander's neck, and burst into tears; in which he was +accompanied by all the women, and some of the men; so that the +lamentations became general. Astonishment alone kept Captain Cook from +joining in their grief. At last, the whole which he could collect from +his inquiries was, that the natives had been alarmed on account of the +absence of the English boats, and imagined that the captain, upon the +supposition of the desertion of his men, would use violent means for +the recovery of his loss. When the matter was explained, it was +acknowledged that not a single inhabitant, or a single Englishman, had +been hurt. This groundless consternation displayed in a strong light +the timorous disposition of the people of the Society islands. + +Our navigators were as successful in procuring provisions at Ulietea +as they had been at Huaheine. Captain Cook judged that the number of +hogs obtained amounted to four hundred or upwards: many of them, +indeed, were only roasters, while others exceeded a hundred pounds in +weight; but the general run was from forty to sixty. A larger quantity +was offered than the ships could contain; so that our countrymen were +enabled to proceed on their voyage with no small degree of comfort and +advantage. + +Our commander, by his second visit to the Society islands, gained a +farther knowledge of their general state, and of the customs of the +inhabitants. It appeared, that a Spanish ship had been lately at +Otaheite, and the natives complained, that a disease had been +communicated to them by the people of this vessel which according to +their account affected the head, the throat, and the stomach, and at +length ended in death. With regard to a certain disorder, the effects +of which have so fatally been felt in the latter ages of the world, +Captain Cook's inquiries could not absolutely determine whether it was +known to the islanders before they were visited by the Europeans. If +it was of recent origin, the introduction of it was, without a +dissentient voice, ascribed to the voyage of M. de Bougainville. + +One thing which our commander was solicitous to ascertain, was, +whether human sacrifices constituted a part of the religious customs +of these people, The man of whom he had made his inquiries, and +several other natives took some pains to explain the matter; but, from +our people's ignorance of the language of the country, their +explication could not be understood. Captain Cook afterwards learned +from Omai that the inhabitants of the Society islands offer human +sacrifices to the Supreme Being. What relates to funeral ceremonies +excepted, all the knowledge he could obtain concerning their religion +was very imperfect and defective. + +The captain had an opportunity, in this voyage of rectifying the great +injustice which had been done to the women of Otaheite and the +neighbouring isles. They had been represented as ready, without +exception to grant the last favour to any man who would come up to +their price: but our commander found that this was by no means the +case. The favours both of the married women and of the unmarried, of +the better sort, were as difficult to be obtained in the Society +islands as in any other country whatever. Even with respect to the +unmarried females of the lower class, the charge was not +indiscriminately true. There were many of these who would not admit of +indecent familiarities. The setting this subject in a proper light +must be considered as one of the agreeable effects of Captain Cook's +second voyage. Every enlightened mind will rejoice at what conduces to +the honour of human nature in general, and of the female sex in +particular. Chastity is so eminently the glory of that sex, and, +indeed, is so essentially connected with the good order of society, +that it must be a satisfaction to reflect, that there is no country, +however ignorant or barbarous, in which this virtue is not regarded as +an object of moral obligation. + +This voyage enabled our commander to gain some farther knowledge +concerning the geography of the Society isles; and he found it highly +probable, that Otaheite is of greater extent than he had computed it +in his former estimation. The astronomers did not neglect to set up +their observatories, and to make observations suited to their purpose. + +On the 17th of September, Captain Cook sailed from Ulietea, directing +his course to the west, with an inclination to the south. Land was +discovered on the 23rd of the month, to which he gave the name of +Harvey's Island. On the 1st of October, he reached the island of +Middleburg. While he was looking about for a landing place, two +canoes, each of them conducted by two or three men, came boldly +alongside the ship, and some of the people entered it without +hesitation. This mark of confidence inspired our commander with so +good an opinion of the inhabitants, that he determined, if possible, +to pay them a visit, which he did the next day. Scarcely had the +vessels gotten to an anchor, before they were surrounded by a great +number of canoes, full of the natives, who brought with them cloth, +and various curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, and such +other articles as were adapted to their fancy. Among those who came on +board, was a chief, named Tioony, whose friendship Captain Cook +immediately gained by proper presents, consisting principally of a +hatchet and some spike-nails. A party of our navigators, with the +captain at the head of them having embarked in two boats, proceeded to +the shore, where they found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed +them to the island with loud acclamations. There was not so much as a +stick, or any other weapon, in the hands of a single native, so +pacific were their dispositions and intentions. They seemed to be more +desirous of giving than receiving; and many of them, who could not +approach near to the boats, threw into them, over the heads of others, +whole bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking or +waiting for anything in return. The whole day was spent by our +navigators in the most agreeable manner. When they returned on board +in the evening, every one expressed how much he was delighted with the +country, and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who +seemed to vie with each other in their endeavours to give pleasure to +our people. All this conduct appeared to be the result of the most +pure good nature, perhaps without being accompanied with much +sentiment or feeling; for when Captain Cook signified to the chief his +intention of quitting the island, he did not seem to be in the least +moved. Among other articles presented by the captain to Tioony, he +left him an assortment of garden seeds, which, if properly used, might +be of great future benefit to the country. + +From Middleburg, the ships sailed down to Amsterdam, the natives of +which island were equally ready with those of the former place to +maintain a friendly intercourse with the English. Like the people of +Middleburg, they brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, and +such other articles as could be of little service; and for these our +seamen were so simple as to barter away their clothes. To put a stop, +therefore to so injurious a traffic, and to obtain the necessary +refreshments, the captain gave orders, that no sort of curiosities +should be purchased by any person whatever. This injunction produced +the desired effect. When the inhabitants saw that the English would +deal with them for nothing but eatables, they brought off bananas and +cocoa-nuts in abundance, together with some fowls and pigs; all of +which they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth. Even a few +old rags were sufficient for the purchase of a pig or a fowl. + +The method of carrying on trade being settled, and proper officers +having been appointed to prevent disputes, our commander's next object +was to obtain as complete a knowledge as possible of the island of +Amsterdam. In this he was much facilitated by a friendship which he +had formed with Attago, one of the chiefs of the country. Captain Cook +was struck with admiration, when he surveyed the beauty and +cultivation of the island. He thought himself transported into the +most fertile plains of Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground. +The roads occupied no larger a space than was absolutely necessary, +and the fences did not take up above four inches each. Even such a +small portion of ground was not wholly lost; for many of the fences +themselves contained useful trees or plants. The scene was every where +the same; and nature, assisted by a little art, no where assumes a +more splendid appearance than in this island. + +Friendly as were the natives of Amsterdam, they were not entirely free +from the thievish disposition which had so often been remarked in the +islanders of the Southern Ocean. The instances, however, of this kind, +which occurred, were not of such a nature as to produce any +extraordinary degree of trouble, or to involve our people in a quarrel +with the inhabitants. + +Captain Cook's introduction to the king of the island afforded a scene +somewhat remarkable. His majesty was seated with so much sullen and +stupid gravity, that the captain took him for an idiot, whom the +Indians, from some superstitious reasons, were ready to worship. When +our commander saluted and spoke to him, he neither answered, nor took +the least notice of him; nor did he alter a single feature of his +countenance. Even the presents which were made to him could not induce +him to resign a bit of his gravity, or to speak one word, or to turn +his head either to the right hand or to the left. As he was in the +prime of life, it was possible that a false sense of dignity might +engage him to assume so solemn a stupidity of appearance. In the +history of mankind, instances might probably be found which would +confirm this supposition. + +It is observable, that the two islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam are +guarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks, which extend out from +the shore about one hundred fathoms. On this reef the force of the sea +is spent before it reaches the land. The same, indeed, is, to a great +measure, the situation of all the tropical isles which our commander +had seen in that part of the globe; and hence arises an evidence of +the wisdom and goodness of Providence; as by such a provision, nature +has effectually secured them from the encroachments of the sea, though +many of them are mere points, when compared with the vast ocean by +which they are surrounded. + +In Amsterdam, Mr. Forster not only found the same plants that are at +Otaheite and the neighbouring islands, but several others, which are +not to be met with in those places. Captain Cook took care, by a +proper assortment of garden-seeds and pulse, to increase the vegetable +stock of the inhabitants. + +Hogs and fowls were the only domestic animals that were seen in these +islands. The former are of the same sort with those which have been +met with in other parts of the Southern Ocean; but the latter are far +superior, being as large as any in Europe, and equal, if not +preferable, with respect to the goodness of their flesh. + +Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans. Their colour +is that of a lightish copper, and with a greater uniformity than +occurs among the natives of Otaheite and the Society Isles. Some of +the English gentlemen were of opinion, that the inhabitants of +Middleburg and Amsterdam were a much handsomer race; while others with +whom Captain Cook concurred, maintained a contrary sentiment. However +this may be, their shape is good, their features regular, and they are +active, brisk, and lively. The women, in particular, are the merriest +creatures our commander had ever met with: and, provided any person +seemed pleased with them, they would keep chattering by his side +without the least invitation, or considering whether they were +understood. They appeared in general to be modest, though there were +several amongst them of a different character. As there were yet on +board some complaints of a certain disorder, the captain took all +possible care to prevent its communication. Our navigators were +frequently entertained by the women with songs, and this in a manner +which was by no means disagreeable. They had a method of keeping time +by snapping their fingers. Their music was harmonious as well as their +voices, and there was a considerable degree of compass in their notes. + +A singular custom was found to prevail in these islands. The greater +part of the people were observed to have lost one or both of their +little fingers; and this was not peculiar to rank, age, or sex; nor +was the amputation restricted to any specific period of life. Our +navigators endeavoured in vain to discover the reason of so +extraordinary a practice. + +A very extensive knowledge of the language of Middleburg and Amsterdam +could not be obtained during the short stay which was made there by +the English. However, the more they inquired into it, the more they +found that it was, in general, the same with that which is spoken at +Otaheite and the Society isles. The difference is not greater than +what frequently occurs betwixt the most northern and western parts of +England. + +On the 7th of October, Captain Cook proceeded on his voyage. His +intention was to sail directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New +Zealand, for the purpose of taking in wood and water, after which he +was to pursue his discoveries to the south and the east. The day after +he quitted Amsterdam, he passed the island of Pilstart; an island +which had been discovered by Tasman. + +On the 21st, he made the land of New Zealand, at the distance of eight +or ten leagues from Table Cape. As our commander was very desirous of +leaving in the country such an assortment of animals and vegetables as +might greatly contribute to the future benefit of the inhabitants, one +of the first things which he did was to give to a chief, who had come +off in a canoe, two boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks, +together with a quantity of seeds, The seeds were of the most useful +kind; such as wheat, french and kidney beans, pease, cabbage, turnips, +onions, carrots, parsnips, and yams. The man to whom these several +articles were presented, though he was much more enraptured with a +spike-nail half the length of his arm, promised, however, to take care +of them, and in particular, not to kill any of the animals. If he +adhered to his promise, they would be sufficient, in a due course of +time, to stock the whole island. + +It was the 3rd of November before Captain Cook brought the Resolution +into Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. He had been beating about +the island from the 21st of October, during which time his vessel was +exposed to a variety of tempestuous weather. In one instance he had +been driven off the land by a furious storm, which lasted two days, +and which would have been dangerous in the highest degree, had it not +fortunately happened that it was fair overhead, and that there was no +reason to be apprehensive of a lee-shore. In the course of the bad +weather which succeeded this storm, the Adventure was separated from +the Resolution, and was never seen or heard of through the whole +remainder of the voyage. + +The first object of our commander's attention, after his arrival in +Queen Charlotte's Sound, was to provide for the repair of his ship, +which had suffered in various respects, and especially in her sails +and rigging. Another matter which called for his notice was the state +of the bread belonging to the vessel, and he had the mortification of +finding, that a large quantity of it was damaged. To repair this loss +in the best manner he was able, he ordered all the casks to be opened, +the bread to be picked, and such parcels of it to be baked, in the +copper oven, as could by that means be recovered. Notwithstanding this +care, four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds were found +totally unfit for use; and about three thousand pounds more could only +be eaten by people in the situation of our navigators. + +Captain Cook was early in his inquiries concerning the animals which +had been left at New Zealand, in the former part of his voyage. He saw +the youngest of the two sows that Captain Furneaux had put on shore in +Cannibal Cove. She was in good condition, and very tame. The boar and +other sow, if our commander was rightly informed, were taken away and +separated, but not killed. He was told that the two goats, which he +had landed up the Sound, had been destroyed by a rascally native of +the name of Goubiah; so that the captain had the grief of discovering +that all his benevolent endeavours to stock the country with useful +animals were likely to be frustrated by the very people whom he was +anxious to serve. The gardens had met with a better fate. Every thing +in them, excepting potatoes, the inhabitants had left entirely to +nature, who had so well performed her part, that most of the articles +were in a flourishing condition. + +Notwithstanding the inattention and folly of the New Zealanders, +Captain Cook still continued his zeal for their benefit. To the +inhabitants who resided at the Cove, he gave a boar, a young sow, two +cocks, and two hens, which had been brought from the Society islands. +At the bottom of the West Bay, he ordered to be landed without the +knowledge of the Indians, four hogs, being three sows and one boar, +together with cocks and two hens. They were carried a little way into +the woods, and as much food was left them as would serve them for ten +or twelve days; which was done to prevent their coming down to the +shore in search of sustenance, and by that means being discovered by +the natives. The captain was desirous of replacing the two goats which +Goubiah was understood to have killed, by leaving behind him the only +two that yet remained in his possession. But he had the misfortune, +soon after his arrival at Queen Charlotte's Sound to lose the ram; and +this in a manner for which it was not easy to assign the cause. +Whether it was owing to any thing he had eaten, or to his being stung +with nettles, which were very plentiful in the place, he was seized +with fits that bordered upon madness. In one of these fits, he was +supposed to have run into the sea, and to have been drowned: and thus +every method, which our commander had taken to stock the country with +sheep and goats, proved ineffectual. He hoped to be more successful +with respect to the boars and sows and the cocks and hens, which he +left in the island. + +While the boatswain, one day, and a party of men, were employed in +cutting broom, some of them stole several things from a private hut of +the natives, in which was deposited most of the treasures they had +received from the English as well as property of their own. Complaint +being made by the Indians to Captain Cook, and a particular man of the +boatswain's party having been pointed out to the captain, as the +person who had committed the theft, he ordered him to be punished in +their presence. With this they went away seemingly satisfied, although +they did not recover any of the articles which they had lost. It was +always a maxim with our commander, to punish the least crimes which +any of his people were guilty of with regard to uncivilized nations. +Their robbing us with impunity he by no means considered as a reason +for our treating them in the same manner. Addicted as the New +Zealanders were, in a certain degree, to stealing, a disposition which +must have been very much increased by the novelty and allurement of +the objects presented to their view; they had, nevertheless, when +injured themselves, such a sense of justice as to apply to Captain +Cook for redress. The best method, in his opinion, of preserving a +good understanding with the inhabitants of countries in this state of +society, is, first, to convince them of the superiority we have over +them in consequence of our fire arms, and then to be always upon our +guard. Such a conduct, united with strict honesty and gentle +treatment, will convince them, that it is their interest not to +disturb us, and prevent them from forming any general plan of attack. + +In this second visit of our navigators to New Zealand, they met with +indubitable evidence that the natives were eaters of human flesh. The +proofs of this fact had a most powerful influence on the mind of +Oedidee, a youth of Bolabola, whom Captain Cook had brought in the +Resolution from Ulietea. He was so affected, that he became perfectly +motionless, and exhibited such a picture of horror, that it would have +been impossible for art to describe that passion with half the force +with which it appeared in his countenance. When he was roused from +this state by some of the English, he burst into tears; continued to +weep and scold by turns; told the New Zealanders that they were vile +men; and assured them, that he would not be any longer their friend. +He would not so much as permit them to come near him; and he refused +to accept or even to touch, the knife by which some human flesh had +been cut off. Such was Oedidee's indignation against the abominable +custom; and our commander has justly remarked, that it was an +indignation worthy to be imitated by every rational being. The conduct +of this young man, upon the present occasion, strongly points out the +difference which had taken place, in the progress of civilization, +between the inhabitants of the Society islands and those of New +Zealand. It was our commander's firm opinion, that the only human +flesh which was eaten by these people was that of their enemies, who +had been slain in battle. + +During the stay of our voyagers in Queen Charlotte's Sound, they were +plentifully supplied with fish, procured from the natives at a very +easy rate; and, besides the vegetables afforded by their own gardens, +they every where found plenty of scurvy-grass and celery. These +Captain Cook ordered to be dressed every day for all his hands. By the +attention which he paid to his men in the article of provisions, they +had for three months lived principally on a fresh diet, and, at this +time, there was not a sick or corbutic person on board. + +The morning before the captain sailed, he wrote a memorandum, +containing such information as he thought necessary for Captain +Furneaux, in case he should put into the sound. This memorandum was +buried in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden; and in such +a manner, that it could not avoid being discovered, if either Captain +Furneaux, or any other European, should chance to arrive at the cove. + +Our commander did not leave New Zealand without making such remarks on +the coast between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser as may be of +service to future navigators. It being now the unanimous opinion that +the Adventure was no where upon the island, Captain Cook gave up all +expectations of seeing her any more during the voyage. This +circumstance, however, did not discourage him from fully exploring the +southern parts of the Pacific ocean, in the doing of which he intended +to employ the whole of the ensuing season. When he quitted the coast, +he had the satisfaction to find that not a man of the crew was +dejected, or thought that the dangers, they had yet to go through, +were to the least augmented by their being alone. Such was the +confidence they placed in their commander, that they were as ready to +proceed cheerfully to the south, or wherever he might lead them, as if +the Adventure, or even a larger number of ships had been in company. + +On the 26th of November, Captain Cook sailed from New Zealand in +search of a continent, and steered to the south, inclining to the +east. Some days after this, our navigators reckoned themselves to be +antipodes to their friends in London, and consequently were at as +great a distance from them as possible. The first ice island was seen +on the 12th of December, farther south than the first ice which had +been met with after leaving the Cape of Good Hope in the preceding +year. In the progress of the voyage, ice islands continually occurred, +and the navigation became more and more difficult and dangerous. When +our people were in the latitude of 67° 5' south, they all at once got +within such a cluster of these islands, together with a large quantity +of loose pieces, that to keep clear of them was a matter of the utmost +difficulty. On the 22nd of the month, the Resolution was in the +highest latitude she had yet reached; and circumstances now became so +unfavourable, that our commander thought of returning more to the +north. Here there was no probability of finding any land, or a +possibility of getting farther south. To have proceeded, therefore, to +the east in this latitude, must have been improper, not only on +account of the ice, but because a vast space of sea to the north must +have been left unexplored, in which there might lie a large tract of +country. It was only by visiting those parts, that it could be +determined whether such a supposition was well founded. As our +navigators advanced to the north-east on the 24th, the ice islands +increased so fast upon them, that, at noon, they could see nearly a +hundred around them, besides an immense number of small pieces. In +this situation they spent Christmas-day, much in the same manner as +they had done in the former year. Happily our people had continual +day-light, and clear weather for had it been as foggy as it was on +some preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could have saved them +from being dashed to pieces. + +While the Resolution was in the high latitudes many of her company +were attacked with a slight fever, occasioned by colds. The disorder, +however, yielded to the simplest remedies, and was generally removed +in a few days. On the 5th of January, 1774, the ship not being then in +much more than fifty degrees of latitude, there were only one or two +persons on the sick list. + +After Captain Cook, agreeably to his late resolution, had traversed a +large extent of ocean, without discovering land, he again directed his +course to the southward. By the 30th of the month, through +obstructions and difficulties, which, from their similar nature to +those already mentioned, it would be tedious to repeat, he reached to +the seventy-first degree of latitude. Thus far had he gone: but to +have proceeded farther would have been the height of folly and +madness. It would have been exposing himself, his men, and his ship to +the utmost danger, and perhaps to destruction, without the least +prospect of advantage. The captain was of opinion, as indeed were most +of the gentlemen on board, that the ice now in sight extended quite to +the pole, or might join to some land, to which it might be fixed from +the earliest time. If, however, there be such land, it can afford no +better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, +with which it must be wholly covered. Though our commander had not +only the ambition of going farther than any one had done before, but +of proceeding as far as it was possible for man to go, he was the less +dissatisfied with the interruption he now met with, as it shortened +the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the +southern polar regions. In fact he was impelled by inevitable +necessity to tack, and stand back to the north. + +The determination which Captain Cook now formed was to spend the +ensuing winter within the tropic, if he met with no employment before +he came there. He was well satisfied, that no continent was to be +found in this ocean, but what must lie so far to the south, as to be +wholly inaccessible on account of ice. If there existed a continent in +the southern Atlantic Ocean, he was sensible that he could not explore +it, without having the whole summer before them. Upon a supposition, +on the other hand, that there is no land there he might undoubtedly +have reached the Cape of Good Hope by April. In that case, he would +have put an end to the finding of a continent; which was indeed the +first object of the voyage. But this could not satisfy the extensive +and magnanimous mind of our commander. He had a good ship, expressly +sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and was not in want either of +stores or of provisions. In such circumstances, to have quitted this +Southern Pacific Ocean, would, he thought, have been betraying not +only a want of perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing it to have +been so well explored, that nothing farther could be done. Although he +had proved that there was no continent but what must lie far to the +south, there remained, nevertheless, room for very large islands in +places wholly unexamined. Many, likewise, of those which had formerly +been discovered had been but imperfectly explored, and their +situations were as imperfectly known. He was also pursuaded, that his +continuing some time longer in this sea would be productive of +improvements in navigation and geography, as well as in other +sciences. + +In consequence of these views, it was Captain Cook's intention first +to go in search of the land said to have been discovered by Juan +Fernandez, in the last century. If he should fail in finding this +land, he proposed to direct his course in quest of Easter Island or +Davis's Land, the situation of which was known with so little +certainty, that none of the attempts lately made for its discovery had +been successful. He next intended to get within the tropic, and then +to proceed to the west, touching at, and settling the situations of +such islands, as he might meet with till he arrived at Otaheite, where +it was necessary for him to stop, to look for the Adventure. It was +also in his contemplation to run as far west as the Tierra Austral del +Espiritu Santo, which was discovered by Quiros, and to which M. de +Bougainville has given the name of the Great Cyclades. From this land, +it was the captain's plan to steer to the south, and so back to the +east, between the latitudes of fifty and sixty. In the execution of +this plan, it was his purpose, if possible, to attain the length of +Cape Horn in the ensuing November, when he should have the best part +of the summer before him, to explore the southern part of the Atlantic +Ocean. Great as was this design, our commander thought it capable of +being carried into execution; and when he communicated it to his +officers, he had the satisfaction of finding that it received their +zealous and cheerful concurrence. They displayed the utmost readiness +for executing, in the most effectual manner, every measure he thought +proper to adopt. With such good examples to direct them, the seamen +were always obedient and alert; and on the present occasion, so far +were they from wishing the voyage to be concluded, that they rejoiced +at the prospect of its being prolonged another year, and of soon +enjoying the benefits of a milder climate. + +In pursuing his course to the north, Captain Cook became well assured, +that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any such was ever made, could +be nothing more than a small island. At this time, the captain was +attacked by a bilious colic, the violence of which confined him to his +bed. The management of the ship, upon this occasion, was left to Mr. +Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her entirely to his +commander's satisfaction. It was several days before the most +dangerous symptoms of Captain Cook's disorder were removed; during +which time, Mr. Patten the surgeon, in attending upon him, manifested +not only the skilfulness of a physician, but the tenderness of a +nurse. When the captain began to recover, a favourite dog, belonging +to Mr. Forster, fell a sacrifice to his tender stomach. There was no +other fresh meat whatever on board, and he could eat not only of the +broth which was made of it, but of the flesh itself, when there was +nothing else that he was capable of tasting. Thus did he derive +nourishment and strength from food, which to most people in Europe, +would have been in the highest degree disgusting, and productive of +sickness. The necessity of the case overcame every feeling of dislike. + +On the 11th of March, our navigators came within sight of Easter +Island, or Davis's Land; their transactions at which place were of too +little moment to deserve a particular recital. The inhabitants are, in +general, a slender race. In colour, features, and language, they bear +such an affinity to the people of the more western isles, that there +can be no doubt of their having been descended from one common +original. It is indeed extraordinary, that the same nation should have +spread themselves to so wide an extent, as to take in almost a fourth +part of the circumference of the globe. With regard to the disposition +of the natives of Easter Island, it is friendly and hospitable; but +they are as much addicted to stealing, as any of their neighbours. The +island itself hath so little to recommend it, that no nation need to +contend for the honour of its discovery. So sparing has nature been of +her favours to this spot, that there is in it no safe anchorage, no +wood for fuel, no fresh water worth taking on board. The most +remarkable objects in the country are some surprising gigantic +statues, which were first seen by Roggewein. + +It was with pleasure that our commander quitted a place, which could +afford such slender accommodations to voyagers, and directed his +course for the Marquesas Islands. He had not been long at sea, before +he was again attacked by his bilious disorder. The attack, however, +was not so violent as the former one had been. He had reason to +believe, that the return of his disease was owing to his having +exposed and fatigued himself too much at Easter Island. + +On the 6th and 7th of April, our navigators came within sight of four +islands, which they knew to be the Marquesas. To one of them, which +was a new discovery, Captain Cook gave the name of Hood's Island, +after that of the young gentleman by whom it was first seen. As soon +as the ship was brought to an anchor in Madre de Dios, or Resolution +Bay, in the Island of St. Christina, a traffic commenced, in the +course of which the natives would frequently keep our goods, without +making any return. At last the captain was obliged to fire a +musket-ball over one man, who had several times treated the English in +this manner. This produced only a temporary effect. Too many of the +Indians having come on board, our commander, who was going into a boat +to find a convenient place for mooring the ship, said to the officers, +"You must look well after these people or they will certainly carry +off something or other." Scarcely had he gotten into the boat, when he +was informed, that they had stolen an iron stanchion from the opposite +gangway, and were carrying it off. Upon this he ordered his men to +fire over the canoe, till he could get round in the boat, but not to +kill any one. Such, however, was the noise made by the natives, that +the order was not heard; and the unhappy thief was killed at the first +shot. All the Indians having retired with precipitation, in +consequence of this unfortunate accident, Captain Cook followed them +into the bay, prevailed upon some of them to come alongside his boat, +and, by suitable presents, so far conciliated their minds, that their +fears seemed to be in a great measure allayed. The death of their +countryman did not cure them of their thievish disposition; but, at +length, it was somewhat restrained by their conviction, that no +distance secured them from the reach of our muskets. Several smaller +instances of their talent at stealing, the captain thought proper to +overlook. + +The provisions obtained at St. Christina were yams, plantains, +breadfruit, a few cocoa-nuts, fowls, and small pigs. For a time, the +trade was carried on upon reasonable terms: but the market was at last +ruined by the indiscretion of some young gentlemen, who gave away in +exchange various articles which the inhabitants had not seen before, +and which captivated their fancy above nails, or more useful iron +tools. One of the gentleman had given for a pig a very large quantity +of red feathers, which he had gotten at Amsterdam. The effect of this +was particularly fatal. It was not possible to support the trade, in +the manner in which it was now begun, even for a single day. When, +therefore, our commander found that he was not likely to be supplied, +on any conditions, with sufficient refreshments, and that the island +was neither very convenient for taking in wood and water, nor for +affording the necessary repairs of the ship, he determined to proceed +immediately to some other place, where the wants of his people could +be effectually relieved. After having been nineteen weeks at sea, and +having lived all that time upon salt diet, a change in their food +could not avoid being peculiarly desirable: and yet, on their arrival +at St. Christina, it could scarcely be asserted that a single man was +sick; and there were but a few who had the least complaint of any +kind. 'This,' says Captain Cook, 'was undoubtedly owing to the many +antiscorbutic articles we had on board, and to the great attention of +the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply them in time.' It may +justly be added, that this was likewise owing to the singular care of +the captain himself, and to the exertions of his authority, in +enforcing the excellent regulations which his wisdom and humanity had +adopted. + +The chief reason for our commander's touching at the Marquesas +Islands, was to fix their situation; that being the only circumstance +in which the nautical account of them, given in Mr. Dalrymple's +collection, is deficient. It was farther desirable to settle this +point, as it would lead to a more accurate knowledge of Mendana's +other discoveries. Accordingly, Captain Cook has marked the situation +of the Marquesas with his usual correctness. He has also taken care to +describe the particular cove in Resolution Bay, in the island of St. +Christina, which is most convenient for obtaining wood and water. + +It is remarkable, with respect to the inhabitants of the Marquesas +Islands, that collectively taken, they are, without exception the +finest race of people in this sea. Perhaps they surpass all other +nations in symmetry of form, and regularity of features. It is plain, +however, from the affinity of their language to that of Otaheite and +the Society Isles, that they are of the same origin. Of this affinity +the English were fully sensible, though they could not converse with +them; but Oedidee was capable of doing it tolerably well. + +From the Marquesas, Captain Cook steered for Otaheite, with a view of +falling in with some of the islands discovered by former navigators, +and especially by the Dutch, the situation of which had not been +accurately determined. In the course of the voyage, he passed a number +of low islots, connected together by reefs of coral rocks. One of the +islands, on which Lieutenant Cooper went on shore, with two boats well +armed, was called by the natives Tiookea. It had been discovered and +visited by Captain Byron. The inhabitants of Tiookea are of a much +darker colour than those of the higher islands, and appeared to be +more fierce in their dispositions. This may be owing to their manner +of gaining their subsistence, which is chiefly from the sea, and to +their being much exposed to the sun and the weather. Our voyagers +observed, that they were stout well-made men, and that they had marked +on their bodies the figure of a fish, which was a good emblem of their +profession. + +Besides passing by St. George's Islands, which had been so named by +Captain Byron, our commander made the discovery of four others. These +he called Palliser's Isles, in honour of his particular friend, Sir +Hugh Palliser. The inhabitants seemed to be the same sort of people as +those of Tiookea, and, like them, were armed with long pikes. Captain +Cook could not determine with any degree of certainty, whether the +group of isles he had lately seen, were, or were not, any of those +that had been discovered by the Dutch navigators. This was owing to +the neglect of recording, with sufficient accuracy, the situation of +their discoveries. Our commander, hath, in general, observed with +regard to this part of the ocean, that, from the latitude of twenty +down to fourteen or twelve, and from the meridian of a hundred and +thirty-eight to a hundred and forty-eight or a hundred and fifty west, +it is so strewed with low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with +too much caution. + +On the 22nd of April, Captain Cook reached the Island of Otaheite, and +anchored in Matavia Bay. As his chief reason for putting in at this +place was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity of ascertaining the error +Of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rate of +going, the first object was to land the instruments, and to erect +tents for the reception of a guard, and such other people, as it was +necessary to have on shore. Sick there were none; for the refreshments +which had been obtained at the Marquesas had removed every complaint +of that kind. + +From the quantity of provisions, which, contrary to expectation, our +commander now found at Otaheite, he determined to make a longer stay +in the island than he had at first intended. Accordingly, he took +measures for the repairs of the ship, which the high southern +latitudes had rendered indispensably necessary. + +During Captain Cook's stay at Otaheite, he maintained a most friendly +connexion with the inhabitants; and a continual interchange of visits +was preserved between him and Otoo, Towha, and other chiefs of the +country. His traffic with them was greatly facilitated by his having +fortunately brought with him some red parrot feathers from the island +of Amsterdam. These were jewels of high value in the eyes of the +Otaheitans. The captain's stock in trade was by this time greatly +exhausted; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, he would have +found it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessary +refreshments. + +Among other entertainments which our commander and the rest of the +English gentlemen met with at Otaheite, one was a grand naval review. +The vessels of war consisted of a hundred and sixty large double +canoes, well equipped, manned, and armed. They were decorated with +flags and streamers; and the chiefs, together with all those who were +on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits. The whole +fleet made a noble appearance; such as our voyagers had never seen +before in this sea, or could ever have expected. Besides the vessels +of war, there were a hundred and seventy sail of smaller double +canoes, which seemed to be designed for transports and victuallers. +Upon each of them was a little house; and they were rigged with mast +and sail, which was not the case with the war canoes. Captain Cook +guessed, that there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and +sixty men in the whole fleet. He was not able to obtain full +information concerning the design of this armament. + +Notwithstanding the agreeable intercourse that was, in general, +maintained between our commander and the people of Otaheite, +circumstances occasionally happened, which called for peculiar +exertions of his prudence and resolution. One of the natives, who had +attempted to steal a water-cask from the watering-place, was caught in +the fact, sent on board, and put in irons. In this situation, he was +seen by King Otoo, and other chiefs. Captain Cook having made known to +them the crime of their countryman, Otoo entreated that he might be +set at liberty. This the captain however refused, alleging, that since +he punished his own people, when they committed the least offence +against Otoo's, it was but just that this man should also be punished. +As Captain Cook knew that Otoo would not punish him, he resolved to do +it himself. Accordingly, he directed the criminal to be carried on +shore to the tents, and having himself followed, with the chiefs and +other Otaheitans, he ordered the guard out, under arms, and commanded +the man to be tied up to a post. Otoo again solicited the culprit's +release, and in this he was seconded by his sister, but in vain. The +captain expostulated with him on the conduct of the man, and of the +Indians in general; telling him, that neither he nor any of the ship's +company, took the smallest matter of property from them without first +paying for it; enumerating the articles which the English had given in +exchange for such and such things; and urging, that it was wrong in +them to steal from those who were their friends. He added, that the +punishing of the guilty person would be the means of saving the lives +of several of Otoo's people, by deterring them from committing crimes +of the like nature, and thus preventing them from the danger of being +shot to death, which would certainly happen, at one time or other, if +they persisted in their robberies. With these arguments the king +appeared to be satisfied, and only desired that the man might not be +killed. Captain Cook then directed, that the crowd, which was very +great, should be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of +them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes with a +cat-o'-nine-tails. This punishment the man sustained with great +firmness, after which he was set at liberty. When the natives were +going away, Towha called them back, and, with much gracefulness of +action, addressed them in a speech of nearly half an hour in length, +the design of which was to condemn their present conduct, and to +recommend a different one for the future. To make a farther impression +upon the minds of the inhabitants, our commander ordered his marines +to go through their exercises, and to load and fire in volleys with +ball. As they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is more easy to +conceive than to describe the amazement which possessed the Indians +during the whole time, and especially those of them who had not seen +any thing of the kind before. + +The judicious will discern, with regard to this narrative, that it +throws peculiar light on Captain Cook's character. Nor is it an +uncurious circumstance in the history of human society, that a +stranger should thus exercise jurisdiction over the natives of a +country, in the presence of the prince of that country, without his +authority, and even contrary to his solicitations. + +Another disagreeable altercation with the inhabitants of Otaheite +arose from the negligence of one of the English sentinels on shore. +Having either slept or quitted his post, an Indian seized the +opportunity of carrying off his musket. When any extraordinary theft +was committed, it immediately excited such an alarm among the natives +in general, from their fear of Captain Cook's resentment, that they +fled from their habitations, and a stop was put to the traffic for +provisions. On the present occasion, the captain had no small degree +of trouble; but, by his prudent conduct, the musket was recovered, +peace restored, and commerce again opened. In the differences which +happened with the several people he met with in his voyages, it was a +rule with him, never to touch the least article of their property, any +farther than to detain their canoes for a while, when it became +absolutely necessary. He always chose the most mild and equitable +methods of bringing them to reason; and in this he not only succeeded, +but frequently put things upon a better footing than if no contention +had taken place. + +During this visit to Otaheite, fruit and other refreshments were +obtained in great plenty. The relief arising from them was the more +agreeable and salutary, as the bread of the ship was in a bad +condition. Though the biscuit had been aired and picked at New +Zealand, it was now in such a state of decay, that it was necessary +for it to undergo another airing and cleaning, in which much of it was +found wholly rotten, and unfit to be eaten. This decay was judged to +be owing to the ice our navigators had frequently taken in, when to +the southward, which made the hold of the vessel cold and damp, and to +the great heat that succeeded when they came to the north. Whatever +was the cause, the loss was so considerable, that the men were put to +a scanty allowance in this article, with the additional mortification, +of the bread's being bad as could be used. + +Two goats, that had been given by Captain Furneaux to Otoo, in the +former part of the voyage, seemed to promise fair for answering the +purposes for which they were left upon the island. The ewe, soon +after, had two female kids, which were now so far grown as to be +almost ready to propagate. At the same time, the old ewe was again +with kid. The people were very fond of them, and they were in +excellent condition. From these circumstances, Captain cook +entertained a hope, that, in a course of years they would multiply so +much, as to be extended over all the isles of the Southern Ocean. The +like success did not attend the sheep which had been left in the +country. These speedily died, one excepted, which was said to be yet +alive. Our navigators also furnished the natives with cats, having +given away no less than twenty at Otaheite, besides some which had +been made presents of at Ulietea and Huaheine. + +With regard to the number of the inhabitants of Otaheite, our +commander collected, from comparing several facts together, that, +including women and children, there could not be less, in the whole +island, than two hundred and four thousand. This number, at first +sight, exceeded his belief. But when he came to reflect on the vast +swarms of people that appeared whereever he went, he was convinced, +that the estimate was agreeable to truth. + +Such was the friendly treatment which our voyagers met with at +Otaheite, that one of the gunner's mates was induced to form a plan +for remaining in the country. As he knew that he could not execute his +scheme with success, while the Resolution continued in Matavai Bay, he +took the opportunity, when she was ready to quit it, and the sails +were set for the purpose, to slip overboard. Being a good swimmer, he +had no doubt of getting safe to a canoe, which was at some distance +ready to receive him; for his design was concerted with the natives, +and had even been encouraged by Otoo. However, he was discovered +before he had gotten clear of the ship, and a boat being presently +hoisted out, he was taken up, and brought back to the vessel. When our +commander reflected on this man's situation, he did not think him very +culpable, or his desire of staying in the island so extraordinary, as +might at first view be imagined. He was a native of Ireland, and had +sailed in the Dutch service. Captain Cook, on his return from his +former voyage, had picked him up at Batavia, and had kept him in his +employment ever since. It did not appear, that he had either friends +or connexions, which could bind him to any particular part of the +world. All nations being alike to him, where could he be more happy +than at Otaheite? Here, in one of the finest climates of the globe, he +could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in +ease and plenty. The captain seems to think, that if the man had +applied to him in time, he might have given his consent to his +remaining in the country. + +On the 15th of May, Captain Cook anchored in O'Wharre Harbour, in the +island of Huaheine. He was immediately visited by his friend Oree, and +the same agreeable intercourse subsisted between the captain and this +good old chief, which had formerly taken place. Red feathers were not +here in such estimation as they had been at Otaheite; the natives of +Huaheine having the good sense to give a preference to the more useful +articles of nails and axes. During the stay of our voyagers in the +island, some alarms were occasioned by the thievish disposition of +several of the inhabitants; but matters subsided without any material +consequences. A solemn march, which our commander made through part of +the country, at the head of forty-eight men, tended to impress the +Indians with a sense of his power and authority. In fact, their +attempts at stealing had been too much invited by the indiscretion of +some of the English, who unguardedly separated themselves in the +woods, for the purpose of killing birds; and who managed their muskets +so unskillfully, as to render them less formidable in the eyes of the +natives. + +I cannot persuade myself to omit a dramatic entertainment, at which +several of the gentlemen belonging to the Resolution attended one +evening. The piece represented a girl as running away with our +navigators from Otaheite; and the story was partly founded in truth; +for a young woman had taken a passage in the ship, down to Ulietea. +She happened to be present at the representation of her own +adventures; which had such an effect upon her, that it was with great +difficulty that she could be prevailed upon by the English gentlemen +to see the play out, or to refrain from tears while it was acting. The +piece concluded with the reception which she was supposed to meet with +from her friends at her return; and it was a reception that was by no +means favourable. As these people, when they see occasion, can add +little extempore pieces to their entertainments, it is reasonable to +imagine, that the representation now described was intended as a +satire against the girl, and to discourage others from following her +steps. Such is the sense which they entertain of the propriety of +female decorum. + +During Captain Cook's stay at Huaheine, breadfruit, cocoa-nuts, and +other vegetable productions, were procured in abundance, but not a +sufficiency of hogs to supply the daily expense of the ship. This was +partly owing to a want of proper articles for traffic. The captain was +obliged, therefore, to set the smiths at work to make different sorts +of nails, iron tools, and instruments, in order to enable him to +obtain refreshments at the islands he was yet to visit, and to support +his credit and influence among the natives. + +When our commander was ready to sail from Huaheine, Oree was the last +man that went out of the vessel. At parting, Captain Cook told him, +that they should meet each other no more; at which he wept and said, +'Let your sons come, we will treat them well.' + +At Ulietea, to which the captain next directed his course, the events +that occurred were nearly similar to those which have already been +related. He had always been received by the people of this island in +the most hospitable manner, and they were justly entitled to every +thing which it was in his power to grant. They expressed the deepest +concern at his departure, and were continually importuning him to +return. Oree the chief, and his wife and daughter, but especially the +two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. Their grief was so +excessive, that it might, perhaps, be doubted whether it was entirely +sincere and unaffected; but our commander was of opinion that it was +real. At length, when he was ready to sail, they took a most +affectionate leave. Oree's last request to Captain Cook was, that he +would return; and when he could not obtain a promise to that effect, +he asked the name of his burying-place. To this strange question the +captain answered, without hesitation, that it was Stepney; that being +the parish in which he lived when in London. Mr. Forster, to whom the +same question was proposed, replied with greater wisdom and +recollection, that no man, who used the sea, could say where he should +be buried. + +As our commander could not promise, or even then suppose, that more +English ships would be sent to the southern isles, Oedidee, who for so +many months had been the faithful companion of our navigators, chose +to remain in his native country. But he left them with a regret fully +demonstrative of his esteem and affection, nor could any thing have +torn him from them, but the fear of never returning. When Oree pressed +so ardently Captain Cook's return, he sometimes gave such answers, as +left room for hope. At these answers Oedidee would eagerly catch, take +him on one side, and ask him over again. The captain declares, that he +had not words to describe the anguish which appeared in this young +man's breast, when he went away. He looked up at the ship, burst into +tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. Oedidee was a youth of good +parts, and of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition; but as he was +almost wholly ignorant of the religion, government, manners, customs, +and traditions of his countrymen, and the neighbouring islands, no +material knowledge could have been collected from him, had our +commander brought him away. He would, however, in every respect, have +been a better specimen of the nation than Omai. + +When Captain Cook first came to these islands, he had some thoughts of +visiting Tupia's famous Bolabola. But having obtained a plentiful +supply of refreshments, and the route he had in view allowing him no +time to spare, he laid this design aside, and directed his course to +the west. Thus did he take his leave, as he then thought, for ever, of +these happy isles, on which benevolent nature has spread her luxuriant +sweets with a lavish hand; and in which the natives, copying the +bounty of Providence, are equally liberal; being ready to contribute +plentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators.[8] + + [Footnote 8: From Mr. Wales's observations it appeared, that + during five mouths, in which the watch had passed through the + extremes of heat and cold, it went better in the cold than in the + hot climates.] + +On the 6th of June, the day after our voyagers left Ulietea, they saw +land, which they found to be a low reef island, about four leagues in +compass, and of a circular form. This was Howe Island, which had been +discovered by Captain Wallis. Nothing remarkable occurred from tills +day to the 16th, when land was again seen. It was another reef island; +and being a new discovery, Captain Cook gave it the name of Palmerston +Island, in honour to Lord Palmerston. On the 20th, fresh land +appeared, which was perceived to be inhabited. This induced our +commander to go on shore with a party of gentlemen; but the natives +were found to be fierce and untractable. All endeavours to bring them +to a parley were to no purpose; for they came on with the ferocity of +wild boars, and instantly threw their darts. Two or three muskets +discharged in the air, did not prevent one of them from advancing +still farther, and throwing another dart, or rather a spear, which +passed close over Captain Cook's shoulder. The courage of this man had +nearly cost him his life. When he threw his spear, he was not five +paces from the captain, who had resolved to shoot him for his own +preservation. It happened, however, that his musket missed fire; a +circumstance on which he afterward reflected with pleasure. When he +joined his party, and tried his musket in the air, it went off +perfectly well. This island, from the disposition and behaviour of the +natives, with whom no intercourse could be established, and from whom +no benefit could be received, was called by our commander Savage +Island. It is about eleven leagues in circuit; is of a round form and +good height: and has deep waters close to its shores. Among its other +disadvantages, it is not furnished with a harbour. + +In pursuing his course to the west-south-west, Captain Cook passed by +a number of small islands, and, on the 26th, anchored on the north +side of Anamocka, or Rotterdam. A traffic immediately commenced with +the natives, who brought what provisions they had, being chiefly yams +and shaddocks, which they exchanged for nails, beads, and other small +articles. Here, as in many former cases, the captain was put to some +trouble, on account of the thievish disposition of the inhabitants. As +they had gotten possession of an adze and two muskets, he found it +necessary to exert himself with peculiar vigour, in order to oblige +them to make a restitution. For this purpose, he commanded all the +marines to be armed, and sent on shore; and the result of this measure +was, that the things which had been stolen were restored. In the +contest, Captain Cook was under the necessity of firing some small +shot at a native, who had distinguished himself by his resistance. His +countrymen afterward reported that he was dead; but he was only +wounded, and that not in a dangerous manner. Though his sufferings +were the effects of his own misbehaviour the captain endeavoured to +soften them by making him a present, and directing his wounds to be +dressed by the surgeon of the ship. + +The first time that our commander landed at Anamocka, an old lady +presented him with a girl, and gave him to understand that she was at +his service. Miss, who had previously been instructed, wanted a +spikenail or a shirt, neither of which he had to give her; and he +flattered himself, that by making the two women sensible of his +poverty, he should easily get clear of their importunities. In this, +however, he was mistaken. The favours of the young lady were offered +upon credit; and on his declining the proposal, the old woman began to +argue with him, and then to abuse him. As far as he could collect from +her countenance and her actions, the design of her speech was both to +ridicule and reproach him, for refusing to entertain so fine a young +woman. Indeed the girl was by no means destitute of beauty; but +Captain Cook found it more easy to withstand her allurements than the +abuses of the ancient matron, and therefore hastened into his boat. + +While the captain was on shore at Anamocka, he got the names of twenty +islands, which lie between the north-west and north-east. Some of them +were in sight; and two of them, which are most to the west, are +remarkable on account of their great height. These are Amattafoa and +Oghao. From a continual column of smoke which was seen daily ascending +from the middle of Amattafoa, it was judged that there was a volcano +in that island. + +Anamocka was first discovered by Tasman, and by him was named +Rotterdam. It is of a triangular form, and each side extends about +three and a half or four miles. From the north-west to the south of +the island, round by the east and north, it is encompassed by a number +of small isles, sand-banks, and breakers. An end could not be seen to +their extent to the north, and they may possibly reach as far to the +south as Amsterdam or Tongataboo. Together with Middleburg, or Eaoowe, +and Pilsart, these form a group, containing about three degrees of +latitude, and two of longitude. To this group Captain Cook had given +the name of the Friendly Isles, or Archipelago, from the firm alliance +and friendship which seemed to subsist among their inhabitants, and +from their courteous behaviour to strangers. The same group may +perhaps be extended much farther, even down to Boscawen and Keppel's +Isles, which were discovered by Captain Wallis, and lie nearly in the +same meridian. + +Whilst our commander was at Anamocka, he was particularly assiduous to +prevent the introduction of a certain disorder. As some of his people +brought with them the remains of this disease from the Society Isles, +he prohibited them from having any female intercourse, and he had +reason to believe that his endeavours were successful. + +The productions of Rotterdam, and the persons, manners, and customs of +its inhabitants, are similar to those of Amsterdam. It is not, however +equally plentiful in its fruits, nor is every part of it in so high a +state of cultivation. Neither hath it arisen to the same degree of +wealth, with regard to cloth, matting, ornaments, and other articles +which constitute the chief riches of the islanders of the Southern +Ocean. + +Pursuing their course to the west, our navigators discovered land on +the 1st of July; and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be a small +island, to which, on account of the number of turtle that were seen +upon the coast, Captain Cook gave the name of Turtle Isle. On the +16th, high land was seen bearing south-west, which no one doubted to +be the Australis del Espirito Santo of Quiros, and which is called by +M. de Bougainville the Great Cyclades. After exploring the coast for +some days, the captain came to an anchor, in a harbour in the island +of Mallicollo. One of his first objects was to commence a friendly +intercourse with the natives; but, while he was thus employed, an +accident occurred, which threw all into confusion, though in the end +it was rather advantageous than hurtful to the English. A fellow in a +canoe, having been refused admittance into one of our boats, bent his +bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boatkeeper. Some of his +countrymen having prevented his doing it that instant, time was given +to acquaint our commander with the transaction, who immediately ran +upon deck. At this minute, the Indian had directed his bow to the +boatkeeper; but upon being called to by Captain Cook, he pointed it at +him. Happily, the captain had a musket in his hand loaded with small +shot, and gave him the contents. By this however, he was only +staggered for a moment; for he still held his bow in the attitude of +shooting. A second discharge of the same nature made him drop it, and +obliged him, together with the other natives who were in the canoe, to +paddle off with all possible celerity. At this time, some of the +inhabitants began to shoot arrows from another quarter. A musket +discharged in the air had no effect upon them, but no sooner was a +four-pound ball shot over their heads than they fled in the utmost +confusion. + +A few hours after these transactions, the English put off in two +boats, and landed in the face of four or five hundred people, who were +assembled on the shore and who, though they were all armed with bows +and arrows, clubs, and spears, made not the least opposition. On the +contrary, when they saw Captain Cook advance with nothing but a green +branch in his hand, one of them, who appeared to be a chief, giving +his bow and arrows to another, met the captain in the water, bearing +also a green branch. These being mutually exchanged in token of +friendship, the chief led our commander to the crowd, to whom he +immediately distributed presents. The marines, in the mean time, were +drawn up on the beach. Captain Cook then acquainted the Indians, by +signs, that he wanted wood; and in the same manner permission was +granted him to cut down the trees. + +Much traffic could not be carried on with these people, because they +set no value on nails, or iron tools, or, indeed, on any articles +which our navigators could furnish. In such exchanges as they did +make, and which were principally of arrows for pieces of cloth, they +distinguished themselves by their honesty. When the ship had begun to +sail from the island, and they might easily, in consequence of their +canoes dropping astern, have avoided delivering the things they had +been paid for, they used their utmost efforts to get up with her, that +they might discharge their obligations. One man, in particular, +followed the Resolution, a considerable time, and did not reach her +till the object which brought him was forgotten. As soon as he came +alongside the vessel, he held up the thing which had been purchased; +and, though several of the crew offered to buy it, he insisted upon +delivering it to the person to whom it had been sold. That person, not +knowing him again, would have given something in return; but this he +refused, and shewed him what he had before received. There was only a +single instance in which the natives took, or even attempted to take, +any thing from our voyagers, by any means whatever; and in that case +restitution was immediately made, without trouble and without +altercation. + +The inhabitants of Mallicollo, in general, are the most ugly and ill +proportioned people that Captain Cook had ever seen, and are in every +respect different from all the nations which had been met with in the +Southern Ocean. They are a very dark-coloured, and rather a diminutive +race, with long heads, flat faces, and countenances, which have some +resemblance to that of the monkey. Their hair, which is mostly +black or brown, is short and curly; but not altogether so soft and +woolly as that of a negro. The difference of this people from any whom +our commander had yet visited, appeared not only in their persons but +their language. Of about eighty words, which were collected by Mr. +Forster, scarcely one was found to bear any affinity to the language +spoken in any country or island hitherto described. It was observed by +Captain Cook, that the natives could pronounce most of the English +words with great ease. They had not so much as a name for a dog, and +knew nothing of that animal; for which reason the captain left them a +dog and a bitch; and as they were very fond of them, it was highly +probable that the breed would be fostered and increased. + +To the harbour, in which our commander anchored, while he lay at +Mallicollo, he gave the name of Port Sandwich. It has many advantages, +with regard to depth of water, shelter from winds, and lying so near +the shore as to be a cover to those of a ship's company who may be +carrying on any necessary operations at land. + +Soon after our navigators had gotten to sea, which was on the 23rd of +July, they discovered three or four small islands, that before had +appeared to be connected. At this time the Resolution was not far from +the Isle of Ambrym, the Isle of Paoom, and the Isle of Apee. On the +next morning, several more islands were discovered, lying off the +south-east point of Apee, and constituting a group, which Captain Cook +called Shepherd's isles, in honour of his learned and valuable friend, +Dr. Shepherd, Plumian professor of Astronomy at Cambridge. The ship +was this day in some danger. It suddenly fell calm, and our voyagers +were left to the mercy of the current, close by the isles, where no +sounding could be found with a line of a hundred and eighty fathoms. +The lands or islands, which lay around the vessel in every direction, +were so numerous, that they could not be counted. At this crisis a +breeze sprung up, which happily relieved the captain and his company +from the anxiety the calm had occasioned. + +Amidst the number of islands, that were continually seen by our +navigators, there was only one on which no inhabitants were discerned. +This consisted chiefly of a remarkable peaked rock, which was only +accessible to birds, and which obtained the name of the Monument. + +In the farther course of the ship to the southward, our navigators +drew near to certain lands, which they found to consist of one large +island, the southern and western extremities of which extended beyond +their sight. Three or four smaller ones lay off its north side. To the +two principal of these Captain Cook gave the name of Montagu and +Hinchinbrook; and the large island he named Sandwich, in honour of his +noble patron, the Earl of Sandwich. This island, which was spotted +with woods and lawns, agreeably diversified over the whole surface, +and which had a gentle slope from the hills down to the sea-coast +exhibited a most beautiful and delightful prospect. The examination of +it was not, however, so much an object with our commander as to +proceed to the south, in order to find the southern extremity of the +Archipelago. + +Pursuing his discoveries, Captain Cook came in sight of an island, +which was afterwards known to be called by the natives Erromango. +After coasting it for three days, he brought his vessel to anchor in a +bay there, on the 3rd of August. The next day, he went with two boats +to examine the coast, and to look for a proper landing-place, that he +might obtain a supply of wood and water. At this time, the inhabitants +began to assemble on the shore, and by signs to invite our people to +land. Their behaviour was apparently so friendly, that the captain was +charmed with it; and the only thing which could give him the least +suspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears, darts, +and bows and arrows. He did not, therefore, remit his vigilance; but +kept his eye continually upon the chief, watching his looks, as well +as his actions. It soon was evident that the intentions of the Indians +were totally hostile. They made a violent attempt to sieze upon one of +the boats; and though, on our commander's pointing a musket at them, +they in some measure desisted, yet they returned in an instant, +seemingly determined to carry their design into execution. At the head +of the party was the chief; while others, who could not come at the +boat, stood behind with darts, stones, and bows and arrows in hand, +ready to support their countrymen. As signs and threats had no effect, +the safety of Captain Cook and his people became the only object of +consideration; and yet he was unwilling to fire on the multitude. He +resolved, therefore, to make the chief alone the victim of his own +treachery, and accordingly aimed his musket at him; but at this +critical moment it missed fire. This circumstance encouraged the +natives to despise our weapons, and to shew the superiority of their +own, by throwing stones and darts and by shooting arrows. Hence it +became absolutely necessary for the captain to give orders to his men +to fire upon the assailants. The first discharge threw them into +confusion; but a second was scarcely sufficient to drive them off the +beach. In consequence of this skirmish, four of the Indians lay, to +all appearance, dead on the shore. However, two of them were afterward +perceived to crawl into the bushes; and it was happy for these people +that not half of the muskets of the English would go off, since +otherwise many more must have fallen. The inhabitants were, at length, +so terrified as to make no farther appearance; and two oars which had +been lost in the conflict, were left standing up against the bushes. + +It was observed of these islanders, that they seemed of a different +race from those of Mallicollo, and that they spoke a different +language. They are of a middle size, with a good shape and tolerable +features. Their colour is very dark; and their aspect is not mended by +a custom they have of painting their faces, some with black, and +others with red pigment. As to their hair, it is curly and crisp, and +somewhat woolly. The few women who were seen, and who appeared to be +ugly, wore a kind of petticoat, made either of palm leaves, or a plant +similar in its nature; but the men, like those of Mallicollo, were +almost entirely naked. On account of the treacherous behaviour of the +inhabitants of Erromango, Captain Cook called a promontory, or +peninsula, near which the skirmish happened, _Traitor's Head_. + +From this place the captain sailed for an island which had been +discovered before, at a distance, and at which, on account of his +wanting a large quantity of wood and water, he was resolved to make +some stay. At first the natives were disposed to be very hostile but +our commander, with equal wisdom and humanity contrived to terrify +them, without danger to their lives. This was principally effected by +firing a few great guns, at which they were so much alarmed, as +afterwards to be brought to tolerable order. Among these islanders, +many were inclined to be on friendly terms with our navigators, and +especially the old people; whilst most of the younger were daring and +insolent, and obliged the English to keep to their arms. It was +natural enough, that age should be prudent and cautious, and youth +bold and impetuous; and yet this distinction, with regard to the +behaviour of the various nations which had been visited by Captain +Cook, had not occurred before. + +The island, where the captain now stayed, was found upon inquiry to be +called, by the inhabitants, Tanna; and three others in its +neighbourhood, and which could be seen from it, were distinguished by +the names of Immer, Erronan or Footoona and Annatom. + +From such information of the natives, as our commander could see no +reason to doubt, it appeared, that circumcision was practised among +them, and that they were eaters of human flesh. Concerning the latter +subject, he should never have thought of asking them a single +question, if they had not introduced it themselves, by inquiring +whether the English had the same custom. It hath been argued, that +necessity alone could be the origin of this horrid practice. But as +the people of Tanna are possessed of fine pork and fowls, together +with an abundance of roots and fruits, the plea of necessity cannot be +urged in their behalf. In fact, no instance was seen of their eating +human flesh; and, therefore, there might, perhaps, be some reason to +hesitate, in pronouncing them to be cannibals. + +By degrees the inhabitants grew so courteous and civil, as to permit +the English gentlemen to ramble about in the skirts of the woods, and +to shoot in them, without affording them the least molestation, or +shewing any dislike. One day, some boys of the island having gotten +behind thickets, and thrown two or three stones at our people, who +were cutting wood, they were fired at by the petty officers on duty. +Captain Cook, who was then on shore, was alarmed at the report of the +muskets; and, when he was informed of the cause, was much displeased +that so wanton a use should be made of our fire-arms. Proper measures +were taken by him to prevent such conduct for the future. + +In the island of Tanna was a volcano, which sometimes made a dreadful +noise, and, at each explosion, which happened every three or four +minutes, threw up fire and smoke in prodigious columns. At one time, +great stones were seen high in the air. At the foot of the hill were +several hot springs; and on the side of it Mr. Forster found some +places whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, through cracks or +fissures of the earth. A thermometer that was placed in a little hole +made in one of them, and which in the open air stood only at eighty, +rose to a hundred and seventy. In another instance, the mercury rose +to a hundred and ninety-one. Our commander, being desirous of getting +a nearer and good view of the volcano, set out with a party for that +purpose. But the gentlemen met with so many obstructions from the +inhabitants, who were jealous of their penetrating far into the +country, that they thought proper to return. + +It is observable, with respect to the volcano of Tanna, that it is not +on the ridge of the hill to which it belongs, but on its side. Nor is +that hill the highest in the country, for there are others near it of +more than double its height. It was in moist and wet weather that the +volcano was most violent. + +When our commander was ready to sail from Tanna, an event happened, +which gave him much concern. Just as our people were getting some logs +into the boat, four or five of the natives stepped forward to see what +they were doing. In consequence of the Indians not being allowed to +come within certain limits, the sentinel ordered them back, upon which +they readily complied. At this time, Captain Cook, who had his eyes +fixed upon them, observed the sentry present his piece to the men. The +captain was going to reprove him for his action, when, to his +inexpressible astonishment, the sentry fired. An attack, so causeless +and extraordinary, naturally threw the natives into great confusion. +Most of them fled, and it was with difficulty that our commander could +prevail upon a few of them to remain. As they ran off, he perceived +one of them to fall, who was immediately lifted up by two others, who +took him into the water, washed his wound, and then led him off. The +wounded person not being carried far, Captain Cook sent for the +surgeon of the ship, and accompanied him to the man, whom they found +expiring. The rascal that had fired pretended that an Indian had laid +an arrow across his bow, and was going to shoot at him: so that he +apprehended himself to be in danger. This, however, was no more than +what the islanders had always done, to shew that they were armed as +well as our voyagers. What rendered, the present incident the more +unfortunate was, that it was not the man who bent the bow, but one who +stood near him, that was shot by the sentry. + +The harbour where the captain anchored, during his stay at Tanna, was +called by him Port Resolution, after the name of the ship, she being +the first vessel by which it was ever entered. It is no more than a +little creek, three quarters of a mile in length, and about half that +space in breadth. No place can exceed it in its convenience for taking +in wood and water, which are both close to the shore. The inhabitant +of the island, with whom our commander had the most frequent and +friendly connexions, was named Paowang. + +Very little trade could be carried on with the people of Tanna. They +had not the least knowledge of iron; and consequently nails, tools, +and other articles made of that metal, and which are so greedily +sought for in the more eastern isles, were here of no consideration. +Cloth could be of no service to persons who go naked. + +Among the productions of the island, there is reason to believe that +the nutmeg-tree might be mentioned. This is collected from the +circumstance of Mr. Forster's having shot a pigeon, in the craw of +which a wild nut-meg was discovered. However, though he took some +pains to find the tree, his endeavours were not attended with success. + +It was at first thought by our navigators, that the inhabitants of +Tanna were a race between the natives of the Friendly Islands and +those of Mallicollo; but by a short acquaintance with them they were +convinced, that they had little or no affinity to either, excepting in +their hair. Some few men, women, and children, were seen, whose hair +resembled that of the English. With regard, however, to these persons, +it was obvious, that they were of another nation; and it was +understood that they came from Erronan. Two languages were found to be +spoken in Tanna. One of them, which appeared to have been introduced +from Erronan, is nearly, if not exactly, the same with that of the +Friendly islands. The other, which is the proper language of the +country, and which is judged to be peculiar to Tanna, Erromango, and +Annatom, is different from any that had hitherto been met with by our +voyagers. + +The people of Tanna, are of the middle size, and for the most part +slender. There are few tall or stout men among them. In general, they +have good feature and agreeable countenances. Like all the tropical +race, they are active and nimble; and seem to excel in the use of +arms, but not to be fond of labour. With respect to the management of +their weapons, Mr. Wales hath made an observation so honourable to +Homer, that were I to omit it, I should not be forgiven by my +classical readers. 'I must confess,' says Mr. Wales. 'I have often +been led to think the feats which Homer represents his heroes as +performing with their spears, a little too much of the marvellous to +be admitted into an heroic poem; I mean when confined within the +strait stays of Aristotle. Nay, even so great an advocate for him as +Mr. Pope, acknowledges them to be surprising. But since I have seen +what these people can do with their wooden spears, and them badly +pointed, and not of a hard nature, I have not the least exception to +any one passage in that great poet on this account. But if I see fewer +exceptions, I can find infinitely more beauties in him; as he has. I +think, scarcely an action, circumstance, or description of any kind +whatever, relating to a spear, which I have not seen and recognized +among these people; as their whirling motion, and whistling noise, as +they fly; their quivering motion, as they stick in the ground when +they fall; their meditating their aim, when they are going to throw; +and their shaking them in their hand, as they go along.' + +On the 20th of August, Captain Cook sailed from Tanna, and employed +all the remainder of the month in a farther examination of the islands +around him. He had now finished his survey of the whole Archipelago, +and had gained a knowledge of it, infinitely superior to what had ever +been attained before. The northern islands of this Archipelago were +first discovered in 1606, by that eminent navigator Quiros, who +considered them as part of the Southern continent, which, at that +time, and till very lately, was supposed to exist. M. de Bougainville +was the next person by whom they were visited, in 1768. This +gentleman, however, besides landing in the Isle of Lepers, only made +the discovery, that the country was not connected, but composed of +islands, which he called the Great Cyclades. Captain Cook, besides +ascertaining the situation and extent of these islands, added to them +several new ones, which had hitherto been unknown, and explored the +whole. He thought, therefore, that he had obtained a right to name +them; and accordingly he bestowed upon them the appellation of the +_New Hebrides_. His title to this honour will not be disputed in +any part of Europe, and certainly not by so enlightened and liberal a +people as the French nation. + +The season of the year now rendered it necessary for our commander to +return to the south, while he had yet some time to explore any land he +might meet with between the New Hebrides and New Zealand; at which +last place he intended to touch, that he might refresh his people, and +renew his stock of wood and water for another southern course. With +this view, he sailed on the 1st of September, and on the 4th land was +discovered; in a harbour belonging to which the Resolution came to an +anchor the next day. The design of Captain Cook was not only to visit +the country, but to have an opportunity of observing an eclipse of the +sun, which was soon to happen. An intercourse immediately commenced +with the inhabitants, who, during the whole of the captain's stay, +behaved in a very civil and friendly manner. In return, he was +solicitous to render them every service in his power. To Teabooma the +chief, he sent among other articles, a dog and a bitch, both young, +but nearly full grown. It was some time before Teabooma could believe +that the two animals were intended for him; but when he was convinced +of it, he was lost in an excess of joy. Another, and still more +valuable present, was that of a young boar and sow; which, on account +of the absence of the chief when they were brought to land, were +received with great hesitation and ceremony. + +The last time that our commander went on shore at this place, he +ordered an inscription to be cut on a large tree, setting forth the +name of the ship, the date of the year, and other circumstances, which +testified that the English were the first discoverers of the country. +This he had before done, wherever such a ceremony seemed necessary. +How the island was called by the natives, our voyagers could never +learn: and therefore, Captain Cook gave it the name of New Caledonia. +The inhabitants are strong, robust, active, and well made. With regard +to the origin of the nation, the captain judged them to be a race +between the people of Tanna and the Friendly Isles; or between those +of Tanna and the New Zealanders; or all three. Their language is in +some respects a mixture of them all. In their disposition they are +courteous and obliging; and they are not in the least addicted to +pilfering, which is more than can be asserted concerning any other +nation in this sea. + +The women of New Caledonia, and those likewise of Tanna, were found to +be much chaster than the females of the more eastern islands. Our +commander never heard that the least favour was obtained from them by +any one of his company. Sometimes, indeed, the women would exercise a +little coquetry, but they went no farther. + +The botanists of the ship did not here complain for want of +employment. They were diligent in their researches, and their labours +were amply rewarded. Every day brought some new accession to botanical +knowledge, or that of other branches of natural history. + +Every thing being ready to put to sea, Captain Cook weighed anchor on +the 13th of September, with the purpose of examining the coast of New +Caledonia. In pursuing this object, by which he was enabled to add +greatly to nautical and geographical knowledge, the Resolution was +more than once in danger of being lost, and particularly, in the night +of the 28th of the month, she had a narrow escape. Our navigators, on +this occasion, were much alarmed; and daylight shewed that their fears +had not been ill founded. Indeed, breakers had been continually under +their lee, and at a small distance from them; so that they were in the +most imminent danger. 'We owed our safety,' says the captain, 'to the +interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk +manner in which the ship was managed.' + +Our commander now began to be tired of a coast which he could no +longer explore but at the risk of losing the vessel, and ruining the +whole voyage. He determined, however, not to leave it, till he knew of +what kind some groves of trees were, which, by their uncommon +appearance, had occasioned much speculation, and had been mistaken, by +several of the gentlemen, for bisaltes. Captain Cook was the more +solicitous to ascertain the point, as these trees appeared to be of a +sort, which might be useful to shipping, and had not been seen any +where, but in the southern parts of New Caledonia. They proved to be a +species of spruce pine, very proper for spars, which were then wanted. +The discovery was valuable, as, excepting New Zealand, there was not +an island known, in the South Pacific Ocean, where the ship could +supply herself with a mast or yard, to whatever distress she might be +reduced. It was the opinion of the carpenter of the Resolution, who +was a mastmaker as well as a shipwright, that very good masts might be +made from the trees in question. The wood of them, which is white, +close-grained, tough, and light, is well adapted to that purpose. One +of the small islands where the trees were found, was called by the +captain the Isle of Pines. To another, on account of its affording +sufficient employment to the botanists, during the little time they +stayed upon it, he gave the name of Botany Isle. + +Captain Cook now took into serious consideration what was farther to +be done. He had pretty well determined the extent of the south-west +coast of New Caledonia, and would gladly have proceeded to a more +accurate survey of the whole, had he not been deterred, not only by +the dangers he must encounter, but by the time required for the +undertaking, and which he could not possibly spare. Indeed, when he +considered the vast ocean he had to explore to the south; the state +and condition of the ship; the near approach of summer; and that any +material accident might detain him in this sea even for another year, +he did not think it advisable to make New Caledonia any longer the +object of his attention. But though he was thus obliged, by necessity, +for the first time, to leave a coast which he had discovered, before +it was fully surveyed, he did not quit it till he had ascertained the +extent of the country, and proved, that, excepting New Zealand, it was +perhaps the largest island in the Southern Pacific Ocean. + +As the Resolution pursued her course from New Caledonia, land was +discovered, which on a nearer approach, was found to be an island, of +good height, and five leagues in circuit. Captain Cook named it +Norfolk Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It was +uninhabited; and the first persons that ever set foot on it were +unquestionably our English navigators. Various trees and plants were +observed that are common at New Zealand; and, in particular, the flax +plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any part of that +country. The chief produce of the island is a kind of spruce pine, +exceedingly straight and tall, which grows in great abundance. Such is +the size of many of the trees, that, breast high, they are as thick as +two men can fathom. Among the vegetables of the place, the +palm-cabbage afforded both a wholesome and palatable refreshment; and, +indeed, proved the most agreeable repast that our people had for a +considerable time enjoyed. In addition to this gratification, they had +the pleasure of procuring some excellent fish. + +From Norfolk Isle, our commander steered for New Zealand, it being his +intention to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, that he might refresh +his crew, and put the ship in a condition to encounter the southern +latitudes. On the 18th of October, he anchored before Ship Cove in +that sound; and the first thing he did, after landing, was to look for +the bottle he had left on the shore, in which was a memorandum. It was +taken away; and it soon appeared, from indubitable circumstances, that +the Adventure had been in the cove after it was quitted by the +Resolution. + +Upon visiting the gardens which had been formed at Motuara, they were +found almost in a state of nature, having been wholly neglected by the +inhabitants. Many, however, of the articles were in a flourishing +condition and shewed how well they liked the soil in which they were +planted. It was several days before any of the natives made their +appearance; but when they did so, and recognised Captain Cook and his +friends, joy succeeded to fear. They hurried in numbers out of the +woods, and embraced the English over and over again, leaping and +skipping about like madmen. Amidst all this extravagance of joy, they +were careful to preserve the honour of their females; for they would +not permit some women, who were seen at a distance, to cone near our +people. The captain's whole intercourse with the New Zealanders, +during this his third visit to Queen Charlotte's Sound, was peaceable +and friendly; and one of them, a man apparently of consequence, whose +name was Pedro, presented him with a staff of honour, such as the +chiefs generally carry. In return, our commander dressed Pedro, who +had a fine person, and a good presence, in a suit of old clothes, of +which he was not a little proud. + +Captain Cook still continued his solicitude to stock the island with +useful animals; and accordingly, in addition to what he had formerly +done, he ordered two pigs a boar and sow, to be put on shore. There +was reason to believe, that some of the cocks and hens which had +formerly been left here still existed. None of them, indeed, were +seen; but a hen's egg was found, which had not been long laid. + +Mr. Wales had now an opportunity of completing his observations with +regard to Queen Charlotte's Sound, so as to ascertain its latitude and +longitude with the utmost accuracy. In the captain's former voyage +there had been an error in this respect. Such were Mr. Wales's +abilities and assiduity, that the same correctness was maintained by +him, in determining the situation of all the other places which were +visited by our navigators. + +On the 10th of November, Captain Cook took his departure from New +Zealand, in farther pursuit of his great object, the determination of +the question concerning the existence of a southern continent. Having +sailed till the 27th, in different degrees of latitude, extending from +43 to 55° 48' south, he gave up all hopes of finding any more land in +this ocean. He came, therefore, to the resolution of steering directly +for the west entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, with a view of +coasting the south side of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the +Strait Le Maire. As the world had hitherto obtained but a very +imperfect knowledge of this shore, the captain thought that the full +survey of it would be more advantageous, both to navigation and +geography, than any thing he could expect to find in a higher +latitude. + +In the prosecution of his voyage, our commander, on the 17th of +December, reached the west coast of Terra del Fuego; and having +continued to range it till the 20th, he came to an anchor in a place +to which he afterwards gave the name of Christmas Sound. Through the +whole course of his various navigations, he had never seen so desolate +a coast. It seems to be entirely composed of rocky mountains, without +the least appearance of vegetation. These mountains terminate to +horrible precipices, the craggy summits of which spire up to a vast +height; so that scarcely any thing in nature can appear with a more +barren and savage aspect, than the whole of the country. + +The run which Captain Cook had made directly across the ocean in a +high southern latitude, was believed by him to be the first of the +kind that had ever been carried into execution. He was, therefore, +somewhat particular in remarking every circumstance which seemed to be +in the least material. However, he could not but observe, that he had +never made a passage any where, of such length, or even of a much +shorter extent, in which so few things occurred, that were of an +interesting nature. Excepting the variation of the compass, he knew of +nothing else that was worthy of notice. The captain had now done with +the Southern Pacific Ocean; and he had explored it in such a manner, +that it would be impossible for any one to think that more could be +performed in a single voyage, towards obtaining that end, than had +actually been accomplished. + +Barren and dreary as the land is about Christmas Sound, it was not +wholly destitute of some accomodations, which could not fail of being +agreeable to our navigators. Near every harbour they found fresh water +and wood for fuel. The country abounds like-wise with wild fowl, and +particularly with geese; which afforded a refreshment to the whole +crew, that was the more acceptable on account of the approaching +festival. Had not Providence thus happily provided for them, their +Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork. Some Madeira wine, +the only article of provision that was mended by keeping, was still +left. This in conjunction with the geese, which were cooked in every +variety of method, enabled our people to celebrate Christmas as +cheerfully as perhaps was done by their friends in England. + +The inhabitants of Terra del Fuego, Captain Cook found to be of the +same nation that he had formerly seen in Success Bay; and the same +whom M. de Bougainville has distinguished by the name of Pecharas. +They are a little ugly, half-starved, beardless race, and go almost +naked. It is their own fault that they are no better clothed, nature +having furnished them with ample materials for that purpose. By lining +their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds; +by making the cloaks themselves larger; and by applying the same +materials to different parts of clothing, they might render their +dress much more warm and comfortable. But while they are doomed to +exist in one of the most inhospitable climates in the globe, they have +not sagacity enough to avail themselves of those means of adding to +the conveniences of life, which Providence has put into their power. +In short, the captain, after having been a witness to so many +varieties of the human race, hath pronounced, that, of all the nations +he had seen, the Pecharas are _the most wretched_. + +Notwithstanding the barrenness of the country, it abounds with a +variety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient employment to the +botanists of the Resolution. 'Almost every plant,' says Mr. Forster, +'which we gathered on the rocks, was new to us, and some species were +remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or their smell. + +On the 28th of December, our commander sailed from Christmas Sound, +and proceeded on his voyage, round Cape Horn, through Strait le Maire, +to Staten Land. This famous Cape was passed by him on the next day, +when he entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. In some charts Cape Horn +is laid down as belonging to a small island; but this was neither +confirmed, nor could it be contradicted by our navigators; for several +breakers appeared in the coast, both to the east and west of it, and +the hazy weather rendered every object very indistinct. Though the +summits of some of the hills were rocky, the sides and valleys seemed +covered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts. + +In ranging Staten Island, a good port was found, situated three +leagues to the westward of St. John, and in a northern direction. Upon +account of the day on which the discovery of this port was made (being +the 1st of January), Captain Cook gave it the name of New Year's +Harbour. The knowledge of it may be of service to future navigators. +Indeed, it would be more convenient for ships bound to the west, or +round Cape Horn, if its situation would permit them to put to sea with +an easterly and northerly wind. But this inconvenience is not of great +consequence, since these winds are seldom known to be of long +duration. The captain, however, has declared that if he were on a +voyage round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of wood or water, +or any thing which might make it necessary to put into port, he would +not approach the land at all. By keeping out at sea the currents would +be avoided, which, he was satisfied, would lose their force at ten or +twelve leagues from land, and be totally without influence at a +greater distance. + +The extent of Terra del Fuego, and consequently that of the Straits of +Magalhaens, our commander ascertained to be less than has been laid +down by the generality of navigators. Nor was the coast, upon the +whole, found to be so dangerous as has often been represented. The +weather, at the same time, was remarkably temperate. + +In one of the little isles near Staten Land, and which had been called +by Captain Cook, New Year's Isles, there was observed a harmony +between the different animals of the place, which is too curious to be +omitted. It seemed as if they had entered into a league not to disturb +each other's tranquillity. The greater part of the sea-coast is +occupied by the sea-lions; the sea-bears take up their abode in the +isle; the shags are posted in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix +their quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from +the sea; and the rest of the birds choose more retired places. All +these animals were occasionally seen to mix together, like domestic +cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molest +the other. Nay, the captain had often observed the eagles and vultures +sitting on the hills among the shags, while none of the latter, +whether old or young, appeared to be in the least disturbed at their +presence. It may be asked, then, how do these birds of prey live? This +question our commander hath answered, by supposing that they feed on +the carcasses of seals and birds which die by various causes. It is +probable, from the immense quantity of animals with which this isle +abounds, that such carcasses exist in great numbers. + +From Staten island, Captain Cook sailed, on the 4th of January, with a +view, in the first place, of discovering that extensive coast, laid +down by Mr. Dalrymple in his chart, in which is the gulf of St. +Sebastian: In order to have all other parts before him, the captain +designed to make the western point of that gulf. As he had some doubt +of the existence of such a coast, this appeared to him the best route +for determining the matter, and for exploring the southern part of +this ocean. When he came to the situations assigned to the different +points of the gulf of St. Sebastian, neither land nor any unequivocal +signs of land were discovered. On the contrary, it was evident, that +there could not be any extensive tract of country in the direction +which had been supposed. + +Proceeding in his voyage, land was seen on the 14th, which was at +first mistaken for an island of ice. It was in a manner wholly covered +with snow. From the person by whom it was first discovered, it +obtained the name of Wallis's Island. It is a high rock, of no great +extent, near to which are some rocky islets. Another island, of a +larger compass, on account of the vast number of birds which were upon +it, was called Bird Isle. A more extensive range of country had been +seen for some time which Captain Cook reached on the 17th, and where +he landed, on the same day, in three different places. The head of the +bay, in which he came to shore, was terminated by particular ice +cliffs, of considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off, +and floating out to sea; and while our navigators were in the bay, a +great fall happened, which made a noise like a cannon. No less savage +and horrible were the inner parts of the country. The wild rocks +raised their summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the +valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. There was not a tree to be +seen, or a shrub found, that was even big enough to make a tooth-pick. +The only vegetation, that was met with, was a coarse strong-bladed +grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, which +sprang from the rocks. + +When our commander landed in the bay, he displayed the English +colours; and, under a discharge of small arms, took possession of the +country in his majesty's name. It was not, however, a discovery which +was ever likely to be productive of any considerable benefit. In his +return to the ship, Captain Cook brought with him a quantity of seals +and penguins, which were an acceptable present to the crew; not from +the want of provisions, which were plentiful in every kind, but from a +change of diet. Any sort of fresh meat was preferred by most on board +to salt. The captain himself was now, for the first time, tired of the +salted meats of the ship; and though the flesh of the penguins could +scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its freshness was sufficient to +render it comparatively agreeable to the palate. To the bay in which +he had been, he gave, the name of Possession Bay. + +The land in which this bay lies, was at first judged by our navigators +to be part of a great continent. But, upon coasting round the whole +country, it was proved to a demonstration that it was only an island +of seventy leagues in circuit. In honour of his majesty, Captain Cook +called it the Isle of Georgia. It could scarcely have been thought, +that an island of no greater extent than this, situated between the +latitude of fifty-four and fifty-five, should, in a manner, be wholly +covered, many fathoms deep, with frozen snow, in the height of summer. +The sides and summits of the lofty mountains were cased with snow and +ice; and an incredible quantity lay in the valleys. So immense was the +quantity that our commander did not think that it could be the produce +of the island. Some land, therefore, which he had seen at a distance, +induced him to believe, that it might belong to an extensive tract, +and gave him hopes of discovering a continent. In this respect, +however, he was disappointed; but the disappointment did not sit heavy +upon him; since, to judge of the bulk by the apprehended sample, it +would not have been worth the discovery. It was remarkable, that our +voyagers did not see a river, or a stream of fresh water, on the whole +coast of the Isle of Georgia. Captain Cook judged it to be highly +probable, that there are no perennial springs in the country; and that +the interior parts, in consequence of their being much elevated, never +enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in sufficient quantities to produce +a river or stream of water. In sailing round the island, our +navigators were almost continually involved in a thick mist; so that, +for any thing they knew to the contrary, they might be surrounded with +dangerous rocks. + +The captain on the 25th of the month, steered from the Isle of +Georgia, and, on the 27th, computed that he was in latitude sixty, +south. Farther than this he did not intend to go, unless some certain +signs of soon meeting with land should be discovered. There was now a +long hollow swell from the west, which was a strong indication that no +land was to be met with in that direction; and hence arose an +additional proof of what has already been remarked, that the extensive +coast laid down in Mr. Dalrymple's chart of the ocean between Africa +and America and the Gulf of St. Sebastian, doth not exist. Not to +mention the various islands which were seen in the prosecution of the +voyage, and the names that were given to them, I shall only advert to +a few of the more material circumstances. On an elevated coast, which +appeared in sight upon the 31st; our commander bestowed the +appellation of the Southern Thule. The reason of his giving it this +name was, that it is the most southern land that had ever yet been +discovered. It is everywhere covered with snow; and displays a surface +of vast height. On this day our voyagers were in no small danger from +a great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore, and threatened +to carry them on the most horrible coast in the world. Happily, the +discovery of a point to the north, beyond which no land could be seen, +relieved them from their apprehensions. To the more distinguished +tracts of country, which were discovered from the 31st of January to +the 6th of February, Captain Cook gave the names of Cape Bristol, Cape +Montagu, Saunder's Isle, Candlemas Isles, and Sandwich's Land. The +last is either a group of islands, or else a point of the continent. +For that there is a tract of land near the pole, which is the source +of most of the ice that is spread over this vast Southern Ocean, was +the captain's firm opinion. He also thought it probable, that this +land must extend farthest to the north, where it is opposite to the +Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Ice had always been found by him +farther to the north in these oceans, than any where else, and this he +judged could not be the case, if there were not land of considerable +extent to the south. However, the greatest part of this southern +continent, if it actually exists, must lie within the polar circle, +where the sea is so encumbered with ice, that the land is rendered +inaccessible. So great is the risk which is run, in examining a coast +in these unknown and icy seas, that our commander, with a modest and +well grounded boldness, could assert, that no man would ever venture +farther than he had done; and that the lands which may lie to the +south will never be explored. Thick fogs, snow storms, intense cold, +and every thing besides, that can render navigation dangerous, must be +encountered; all which difficulties are greatly heightened by the +inexpressibly horrid aspect of the country. It is a country doomed by +nature never once to feet the warmth of the sun's rays, but to lie +buried in everlasting snow and ice. Whatever ports there may be on the +coast, they are almost entirely covered with frozen snow of a vast +thickness. If however, any one of them should be so far open as to +invite a ship into it, she would run the risk of being fixed there for +ever, or of coming out in an ice island. To this it may be added, that +the islands and floats on the coast, the great falls from the ice +cliffs in the port, or a heavy snow storm, attended with a sharp +frost, might be equally fatal. + +Nothing could exceed the inclination of Captain Cook, if it had been +practicable, to penetrate farther to the south: but difficulties like +these were not to be surmounted. If he had risked all that had been +done during the voyage, for the sake of discovering and exploring a +coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end +whatever, or have been of the least use either to navigation or +geography, or indeed to any other science, he would justly have been +charged with inexcusable temerity. He determined, therefore, to alter +his course to the east, and to sail in quest of Bouvet's Land, the +existence of which was yet to be settled. Accordingly, this was the +principal object of his pursuit, from the 6th to the 22nd of the +month. By that day he had run down thirteen degrees of longitude, in +the very latitude assigned for Bouvet's Land. No such land, however, +was discovered; nor did any proofs occur of the existence of Cape +Circumcision. Our commander was at this time no more than two degrees +of longitude from the route he had taken to the south, when he left +the Cape of Good Hope. It would, therefore, have been to no purpose to +proceed any farther to the east in this parallel. But being desirous +of determining the question concerning some land that was supposed to +have been seen more to the south, he directed his course for the +situation in which the discovery of it might be expected. Two days +were spent by him in this pursuit, to no effectual purpose. After +having run over the place where the land was imagined to lie, without +meeting with the least signs of any, it became certain that the ice +islands had deceived our navigators, as well as Mr. Bouvet. + +Captain Cook had row made the circuit of the southern ocean in a high +latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least +room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the +pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the +tropical sea, he had not only settled the situation of some old +discoveries, but made many new ones; and, indeed, even in that part, +had left little more to be accomplished. The intention of the voyage +had, in every respect, been fully answered, and the southern +hemisphere sufficiently explored. A final end was hereby put to the +searching after a southern continent, which, for nearly two centuries +past had occasionally engrossed the attention of some of the maritime +powers, and had been urged with great ardour by philosophers and +geographers in different ages. + +The great purpose of his navigation round the globe being thus +completed, the captain began to direct his views towards England. He +had, indeed, some thoughts of protracting his course a little longer, +for the sake of revisiting the place where the French discovery is +said to be situated. But, upon mature deliberation, he determined to +lay aside his intention. He considered, that if this discovery had +really been made, the end would be as fully answered, as if it had +been done by himself. It could only be an island; and, if a judgment +might be formed from the degree of cold which our voyagers had +experienced in that latitude, it could not be a fertile one. Besides, +our commander would hereby have been kept two months longer at sea, +and that in a tempestuous latitude, with which the ship was not in a +condition to struggle. Her sails and rigging were so much worn, that +something was giving way every hour; and there was nothing left, +either to repair or to replace them. The provisions of the vessel were +in such a state of decay, that they afforded little nourishment, and +the company had been long without refreshments. Indeed, the crew were +yet healthy, and would cheerfully have gone wherever the captain had +judged it proper to lead them; but he was fearful, lest the scurvy +should lay hold of them, at a time, when none of the remedies were +left by which it could be removed. He thought, likewise, that it would +have been cruel in him to have continued the fatigues and hardships +they were perpetually exposed to, longer than was absolutely +necessary. Throughout the whole voyage, they had merited by their +behaviour every indulgence which it was in his power to bestow. +Animated by the conduct of the officers, they had shewn that no +difficulties or dangers which came in their way were incapable of +being surmounted; nor had their activity, courage, and cheerfulness +been in the least abated by the separation from them of their consort +the Adventure. + +From all these considerations, which were evidently the dictates of +wisdom and humanity, Captain Cook was induced to spend no longer time +in searching for the French discoveries, but to steer for the Cape of +Good Hope. He determined, however, to direct his course in such a +manner, as to look for the Isles of Denia and Marseveen, which are +laid down in Dr. Halley's variation chart. After sailing in the proper +latitudes from the 25th of February to the 13th of March, no such +islands were discovered. Nothing, indeed, had been seen that could +encourage our voyagers to persevere in a search after them; and much +time could not now be spared, either for the purpose of finding them, +or of proving their non-existence. Every one on board was for good +reasons impatient to get into port. The captain, therefore, could no +longer avoid yielding to the general wishes, and resolving to proceed +to the Cape without further delay. + +Soon after our commander had come to this determination, he demanded +of the officers and petty officers, in pursuance of his instructions, +the log books and journals they had kept; which were delivered to him +accordingly, and sealed up for the inspection of the Admiralty. He +enjoined them also, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they had +been, till they were permitted to do so by their lordships; an +injunction, a compliance with which might probably be rendered +somewhat difficult, from the natural tendency there is in men, to +relate the extraordinary enterprises and adventures wherein they have +been concerned. + +As the Resolution approached towards the Cape of Good Hope, she fell +in first with a Dutch East Indiaman from Bengal, commanded by Captain +Bosch; and next with an English Indiaman, being the True Briton, from +China, of which Captain Broadly was the commander. Mr. Bosch very +obligingly offered to our navigators sugar, arrack, and whatever he +had to spare; and Captain Broadly, with the most ready generosity, +sent them fresh provisions, tea, and various articles which could not +fail of being peculiarly acceptable to people in their situation. Even +a parcel of old news-papers furnished no slight gratification to +persons who had so long been deprived of obtaining any intelligence +concerning their country and the state of Europe. From these vessels +Captain Cook received some information with regard to what had +happened to the Adventure after her separation from the Resolution. + +On Wednesday, the 22nd of March,[9] he anchored in Table Bay; where he +found several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, an English East +Indiaman, bound directly for England, under the command of Captain +Newte. By this gentleman he sent a copy of the preceding part of his +journal, some charts, and other drawings, to the Admiralty. + + [Footnote 9: With our navigators who had sailed round the world, + it was Wednesday, the 22nd of March; but at the Cape of Good Hope + it was Tuesday the 21st.] + +During the circumnavigation of the globe, from the period of our +commander's leaving the Cape of Good Hope to his return to it again, +he had sailed no less than twenty thousand leagues. This was an extent +of voyage nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference of +the earth, and which had never been accomplished before, by any ship, +in the same compass of duration. In such a case, it could not be a +matter of surprise, that the rigging and sails of the Resolution +should be essentially damaged, and even worn out, and yet, in all this +great run, which had been made in every latitude between nine and +seventy-one, she did not spring either lowmast, topmast, lower or +topsail yard; nor did she so much as break a lower or topmast shroud. +These happy circumstances were owing to the good properties of the +vessel, and the singular care and abilities of her officers. + +On the remainder of the voyage it is not necessary to enlarge. Though +it was conducted with the same attention to navigation and geography, +and with the same sagacity in marking whatever was worthy of +observation, nevertheless, as it was not employed in traversing +unknown seas, or in discovering countries that had not been heard of +before, it may be sufficient briefly to mention the places at which +Captain Cook touched before his arrival in England. The repairs of the +ship having been completed, and the necessary stores gotten on board, +together with a fresh supply of provisions and water, he left the Cape +of Good Hope on the 27th of April, and reached the Island of St. +Helena on the 15th of May. Here he staid till the 21st, when he sailed +for the Island of Ascension, where he anchored on the 28th. From this +place he directed his course, on the 31st, for the Island of Fernando +de Noronha, at which he arrived on the 9th of June. + +In the progress of the voyage, our commander made an experiment upon +the still for procuring fresh water; and the result of the trial was, +that the invention is useful upon the whole, but that to trust +entirely to it would by no means be advisable. Indeed, provided there +is not a scarcity of fuel, and the coppers are good, as much water may +be obtained as will support life; but no efforts will be able to +procure a quantity sufficient for the preservation of health, +especially in hot climates. Captain Cook was convinced by experience, +that nothing contributes more to the health of seamen, than having +plenty of water. + +On the 14th of July, the captain came to anchor in the Bay of Fayal, +one of the Azores islands. His sole design in stopping here was to +give Mr. Wales an opportunity of finding the rate of the watch, that +hereby he might be enabled to fix the longitude of these island with +the greater degree of certainty. No sooner, therefore, had our +commander anchored, than he sent an officer to wait on the English +consul, and to acquaint the governor with the arrival of our +navigators, requesting his permission for Mr. Wales to make +observations on shore, for the purpose now mentioned. Mr. Dent, who +then acted as consul, not only obtained this permission, but +accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient place in his garden, to set +up his instruments. + +This object being accomplished, Captain Cook proceeded on the 19th, +with all expedition for England. On the 30th of the same month, he +anchored at Spithead, and landed at Portsmouth; having been absent +from Great Britain three years and eighteen days, in which time, and +under all changes of climate, he had lost but four men, and only one +of them by sickness. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Account of Captain Cook during the Period between his Second Voyage +and his Voyage to the Pacific Ocean. + + +The able manner in which Captain Cook had conducted the preceding +voyage, the discoveries he had made, and his complete determination of +the grand point he had been sent to ascertain, justly and powerfully +recommended him to the protection and encouragement of all those who +had patronized the undertaking. No alterations had occurred, during +his absence, in the presidency of the admiralty department. The noble +lord, whose extensive views had taken such a lead in the plans of +navigation and discovery, still continued at the head of that board; +and it could not be otherwise than a high satisfaction to him, that so +extraordinary a degree of success had attended his designs for the +enlargement of science. His lordship lust no time in representing +Captain Cook's merits to the king; nor did his majesty stand in need +of solicitations to shew favour to a man, who had so eminently +fulfilled his royal and munificent intentions. Accordingly our +navigator, on the 9th of August, was raised to the rank of a post +captain. Three days afterwards, he received a more distinguished and +substantial mark of the approbation of government: for he was then +appointed a captain in Greenwich Hospital; a situation which was +intended to afford him a pleasing and honourable reward for his +illustrious labours and services. + +It will easily be supposed, that the lovers of science would, in +general, be peculiarly attentive to the effects resulting from Captain +Cook's discoveries. The additions he had made to the knowledge of +geography, navigation, and astronomy, and the new views he had opened +of the diversified state of human life and manners, could not avoid +commanding their esteem, and exciting their admiration. With many +persons of philosophic literature he was in the habits of intimacy and +friendship; he was particularly acquainted with Sir John Pringle, at +that time president of the Royal Society. It was natural, therefore, +that his scientific friends should wish him to become a member of this +learned body; the consequence of which was, that, in the latter end of +the year 1775, he was proposed as a candidate for election. On the +29th of February, 1776, he was unanimously chosen; and he was admitted +on the 7th of March. That same evening, a paper was read, which he had +addressed to Sir John Pringle, containing an account of the method he +had taken to preserve the health of the crew of his majesty's ship the +Resolution, during her voyage round the world. Another paper, at the +request of the president, was communicated by him on the 18th of +April. relative to the tides in the South Seas. The tides particularly +considered were those in the Endeavour River, on the east coast of New +Holland. + +A still greater honour was in reserve for Captain Cook, than the +election of him to be a common member of the Royal Society. It was +resolved by Sir John Pringle and the council of the society, to bestow +upon him the estimable prize of the gold medal, for the best +experimental paper, of the year; and no determination could be founded +to greater wisdom and justice. If Captain Cook had made no important +discoveries, if he had not determined the question concerning a +southern continent, his name would have been entitled to immortality, +on account of his humane attention to, and his unparalleled success in +preserving the lives and health of his seamen. + +He had good reason, upon this head, to assume the pleasurable, but +modest language, with which he has concluded his narrative of his +second navigation round the globe: 'Whatever,' says he, 'may be the +public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and +without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I +can, conclude this account with an observation, which facts enable us +to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving +health among a numerous ship's company, for such a length of time, in +such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and +fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable, in the opinion of every +benevolent person, when the disputes about the southern continent +shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment +of philosophers.' + +It was the custom, of Sir John Pringle, at the delivery of Sir Godfrey +Copley's annual medal, to give an elaborate discourse, containing the +history of that part of science for the improvement of which the medal +was conferred. Upon the present occasion, the president had a subject +to enlarge upon, which was perfectly congenial to his disposition and +studies. His own life had been much employed in pointing out the means +which tended not only to cure, but to prevent, the diseases of +mankind; and, therefore, it was with peculiar pleasure and affection +that he celebrated the conduct of his friend, who, by precautions +equally wise and simple, had rendered the circumnavigation of the +globe, so far as health is concerned, quite a harmless undertaking. +Towards the beginning of his discourse, Sir John justly asks, 'What +inquiry can be so useful as that which hath for its object the saving +the lives of men? and when shall we find one more successful than that +before us? Here,' adds the president, 'are no vain boastings of the +empiric, nor ingenious and delusive theories of the dogmatist; but a +concise and artless, and an incontested relation of the means by +which, under divine favour, Captain Cook, with a company of a hundred +and eighteen men, performed a voyage of three years and eighteen days, +throughout all the climates, from fifty-two degrees north to +seventy-one degrees south, with the loss of only one man by sickness. +I would now inquire.' proceeds Sir John Pringle, 'of the most +conversant to the study of bills of mortality, whether, in the most +healthful climate, and in the best condition of life, they have ever +found so small a number of deaths within that space of time? How great +and agreeable then must our surprise be, after perusing the histories +of long navigations in former days, when so many perished by marine +diseases, to find the air of the sea acquitted of all malignity; and, +in fine, that a voyage round the world may be undertaken with less +danger, perhaps, to health, than a common tour in Europe!' + +In the progress of his discourse; the president recounted the dreadful +calamities and destruction the scurvy had heretofore brought upon +mariners in voyages of great length; after which he pointed out at +large, and illustrated with his own observations, the methods pursued +by Captain Cook for preserving the health of his men. In conclusion, +Sir John remarked, that the Royal Society never more cordially or more +meritoriously bestowed the gold medal, that faithful symbol of their +esteem and affection. 'For if,' says he, 'Rome decreed the civic crown +to him who saved the life of a single citizen, what wreaths are due to +that man, who, having himself saved many, perpetuates in your +transactions the means by which Britain may now, on the most distant +voyages, preserve numbers of her intrepid sons, her _mariners_; +who, braving every danger, have so liberally contributed to the fame, +to the opulence, and to the maritime empire of their country!'[10] + + [Footnote 10: Sir John Pringle's Six Discourses, p. 145-147, + 199.--It cannot but be acceptable to insert here Captain Cook's + enumeration of the several causes to which, under the care of + Providence, the uncommon good state of health, experienced by his + people, was owing. I shall not trespass upon the reader's time in + mentioning them all, but confine myself to such as were found the + most useful. + + 'We were furnished with a quantity of malt, of which was made + _sweet wort_. To such of the men as shewed the least symptoms + of the scurvy, and also to such as were thought to be threatened + with that disorder, this was given, from one to two or three pints + a day each man; or in such proportion as the surgeon found + necessary, which sometimes amounted to three quarts. This is, + without doubt, one of the best antiscorbutic sea medicines yet + discovered; and if used in time, will, with proper attention to + other things, I am persuaded, prevent the scurvy from making any + great progress for a considerable while. But I am not altogether + of opinion that it will cure it at sea. + + '_Sour krout_, of which we had a large quantity; is not only + a wholesome vegetable food, but in my judgment, highly + antiscorbutic; and it spoils not by keeping. A pound of this was + served to each man, when at sea, twice a week, or oftener, as was + thought necessary. + + '_Portable broth_ was another great article of which we had a + large supply. An ounce of this to each man, or such other + proportion as circumstances pointed out, was boiled in their + pease, three days in the week; and when we were in places where + vegetables were to be got, it was boiled with them, and wheat or + oatmeal, ever morning for breakfast; and also with pease and + vegetables for dinner. It enabled us to make several nourishing + and wholesome messes, and was the means of making the people eat a + greater quantity of vegetables than they would otherwise have + done. + + '_Rob of lemon and orange_ is an antiscorbutic we were not + without. The surgeon made use of it in many cases with great + success. + + 'Amongst the articles of victualling, we were supplied with + _sugar_ in the room of _oil_, and with _wheat_ for + a part of our _oatmeal_; and were certainly gainers by the + exchange. Sugar, I apprehend, is a very good antiscorbutic; + whereas oil (such as the navy is usually supplied with), I am of + opinion, has the contrary effect. + + 'But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either as + provisions or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful, unless + supported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years' + experience, together with some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser, + Captains Campbell, Wallis, and other intelligent officers, enabled + me to lay a plan whereby all was to be governed. + + 'The crew were at three watches, except upon some extraordinary + occasions. By this means they were not so much exposed to the + weather, as if they had been at watch and watch; and had generally + dry clothes to shift themselves, when they happened to get wet. + Care was also taken to expose them as little to wet weather as + possible. + + 'Proper methods were used to keep their persons, hammocks, + bedding, clothes, &c. constantly clean and dry. Equal care was + taken to keep the ship clean and dry betwixt decks. Once or twice + a week she was aired with fires; and when this could not be done, + she was smoked with gunpowder, mixed with vinegar and water. I had + also, frequently, a fire made in an iron pot at the bottom of the + well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower + parts of the ship. To this, and to cleanliness, as well in the + ship as amongst the people, too great attention cannot be paid; + the least neglect occasions a putrid and disagreeable smell below, + which nothing but fires will remove. + + 'Proper attention was paid to the ships coppers, so that they were + kept constantly clean. + + 'The fat, which boiled out of the salt beef and pork, I never + suffered to be given to the people; being of opinion that it + promotes the scurvy. + + 'I was careful to take in water wherever it was to be got, even + though we did not want it. Because I look upon fresh water from + the shore to be more wholesome than that which has been kept some + time on board a ship. Of this essential article we were never at + an allowance, but had always plenty for every necessary purpose. + Navigators in general cannot, indeed, expect, nor would they wish + to meet with such advantages in this respect, as fell to my lot. + The nature of our voyage carried us into very high latitudes. But + the hardships and dangers, inseparable from that situation, were + in some degree compensated by the singular felicity we enjoyed, of + extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an ocean + strewed with ice. + + 'We came to few places, where either the art of man, or the bounty + of nature, had not provided some sort of refreshment or other, + either in the animal or vegetable way. It was my first care to + procure whatever of any kind could be met with, by every means in + my power; and to oblige our people to make use thereof, both by my + example and authority; but the benefits arising from refreshments + of any kind soon became so obvious, that I had little occasion to + recommend the one to exert the other.' + + In a letter which Captain Cook wrote to Sir John Pringle, just + before he embarked on his last voyage, dated Plymouth Sound, July + 7, 1776, he expressed himself as follows: 'I entirely agree with + you, that the dearness of the rob of lemons and of oranges will + hinder them from being furnished in large quantities. But I do not + think this so necessary; for, though they may assist other things, + I have no great opinion of them alone. Nor have I a higher opinion + of vinegar. My people had it very sparingly during the late + voyage, and, towards the latter part none at all; and yet we + experienced no ill effect from the want of it. The custom of + washing the inside of the ship with vinegar, I seldom observed; + thinking that fire and smoke answered the purpose much better.'] + +One circumstance alone was wanting to complete the pleasure and +celebrity arising from the assignment of Sir Godfrey Copley's medal. +Captain Cook was not himself present, to hear the discourse of the +president, and to receive the honour conferred upon him. Some months +before the anniversary of St. Andrew's day, he had sailed on his last +expedition. The medal, therefore, was delivered into the hands of Mrs. +Cook, whose satisfaction at being intrusted with so valuable a pledge +of her husband's reputation cannot be questioned. Neither can it be +doubted, but that the captain, before his departure from England, was +fully apprized of the mark of distinction which was intended for him +by the Royal Society. + +Captain Cook, after the conclusion of his second voyage, was called +upon to appear in the world in the character of an author. In the +account that was published, by authority, of his former +circumnavigation of the globe, as well as of those which had been +performed by the Captains Byron, Cateret, and Wallis, it was thought +requisite to procure the assistance of a professed literary man, whose +business it should be to draw up a narrative from the several journals +of these commanders. Accordingly, Dr. Hawkesworth, as is universally +known, was employed for the purpose. In the present case, it was not +esteemed necessary to have recourse to such an expedient. Captain Cook +was justly regarded as sufficiently qualified to relate his own story. +His journal only required to be divided into chapters, and perhaps to +be amended by a few verbal corrections. It is not speaking +extravagantly to say, that in point of composition, his history of his +voyage reflects upon him no small degree of credit. His style is +natural, clear, and manly; being well adapted to the subject and to +his own character: and it is possible that a pen of more studied +elegance would not have given any additional advantage to the +narration. It was not till some time after Captain Cook's leaving +England that the work was published; but, in the meanwhile, the +superintendence of it was undertaken by his learned and valuable +friend, Dr. Douglas, whose late promotion to the mitre hath afforded +pleasure to every literary man, of every denomination. When the Voyage +appeared it came recommended by the accuracy and excellence of its +charts, and by a great variety of engravings, from the curious and +beautiful drawings of Mr. Hodges. This work was followed by the +publication of the original astronomical observations, which had been +made by Mr. Wales in the Resolution, and by Mr. Bayley in the +Adventure. It was at the expense of the commissioners of longitude +that these observations were made, and it was by their order that they +were printed. The book of Mr. Wales and Mr. Bayley displays, in the +strongest light, the scientific use and value of Captain Cook's +voyage. + +Some of the circumstances which have now been mentioned have +designedly been brought forward more early in point of time than +should otherwise have been done, in order to prevent any interruption +in the course of the subsequent narrative. + +Though Captain Cook was expected to, sit down in repose, after his +toils and labours, the design of farther discoveries was not laid +aside. The illusion, indeed of a _Terra Australis incognita_, to +any purposes of commerce, colonization, and utility, had been +dispelled: but there was another grand question which remained to be +determined; and that was the practicability of a northern passage to +the Pacific Ocean. + +It had long been a favourite object with navigators, and particularly +with the English, to discover a shorter, a more commodious, and a more +profitable course of sailing to Japan and China, and, indeed, to the +East Indies in general, than by making the tedious circuit of the Cape +of Good Hope. To find a western passage round North America had been +attempted by several bold adventurers, from Frobisher's first voyage, +in 1576, to those of James and of Fox, in 1631. By these expeditions a +large addition was made to the knowledge of the northern extent of +America, and Hudson's and Baffin's Bays were discovered. But the +wished-for passage, on that side, into the Pacific Ocean, was still +unattained. Nor were the various attempts of our countrymen, and of +the Dutch, to find such a passage, by sailing round the north of Asia, +in an eastern direction, attended with better success. Wood's failure +in 1676, appears to have concluded the long list of unfortunate +expeditions in that century. The discovery, if not absolutely +despaired of, had been unsuccessful in such a number of instances, +that it ceased for many years, to be an object of pursuit. + +The question was again revived in the present century. Mr. Dobbs, a +warm advocate for the probability of a north-west passage through +Hudson's Bay, once more recalled the attention of this country to that +undertaking. In consequence of the spirit by him excited, Captain +Middleton was sent out by government, in 1741, and Captains Smith and +More, in 1746. But though an act of Parliament had been passed, which +secured a reward of twenty thousand pounds to the discovery of a +passage, the accomplishment of this favourite object continued at as +great a distance as ever. + +To ascertain a matter of such importance and magnitude in navigation, +was reserved to be another glory of his present majesty's reign. The +idea was peculiarly suited to the enlightened mind of the noble lord +at the head of the admiralty, and he adopted it with ardour. +Preparatory to the execution of the design, Lord Mulgrave sailed with +two ships, to determine how far navigation was practicable towards the +north pole. In this expedition, his lordship met with the same +insuperable difficulties which had been experienced by former +voyagers. Nevertheless, the expectation of opening a communication +between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, by a northerly course, was +not abandoned; and it was resolved that a voyage should be undertaken +for that purpose. + +For the conduct of an enterprise, the operations of which were +intended to be so new, so extensive, and so various, it was evident +that great ability, skill, and experience were indispensably +necessary. That Captain Cook was of all men the best qualified for +carrying it into execution was a matter that could not be called in +question. But, however ardently it might be wished that he would take +upon him the command of the service, no one (not even his friend and +patron Lord Sandwich himself) presumed to solicit him upon the +subject. The benefits he had already conferred on science and +navigation, and the labours and dangers he had gone through were so +many and great, that it was not deemed reasonable to ask him to engage +in fresh perils. At the same time, nothing could be more natural, than +to consult him upon every thing relative to the business; and his +advice was particularly requested with regard to the properest person +for conducting the voyage. To determine this point, the captain, Sir +Hugh Palliser, and Mr. Stephens, were invited to Lord Sandwich's to +dinner. Here, besides taking into consideration what officer should be +recommended to his majesty for accomplishing the purposes in view, +many things were said concerning the nature of the design. Its +grandeur and dignity, the consequences of it to navigation and +science, and the completion it would give to the whole system of +discoveries, were enlarged upon in the course of the conversation. +Captain Cook was so fired with the contemplation and representation of +the object, that he started up, and declared, that he himself would +undertake the direction of the enterprise. It is easy to suppose, with +what pleasure the noble lord, and the other gentlemen, received a +proposal, which was so agreeable to their secret wishes, and which +they thought of the highest importance towards attaining the ends of +the voyage. No time was lost by the Earl of Sandwich, in laying the +matter before the king; and Captain Cook was appointed to the command +of the expedition, on the 10th of February, 1776. At the same time, it +was agreed that on his return to England, he should be restored to his +situation at Greenwich; and, if no vacancy occurred during the +interval, the officer who succeeded him was to resign in his favour. + +The command and the direction of the enterprise being thus happily +settled, it became an object of great importance to determine what +might be the best course that could be given to the voyage. All former +navigators round the globe had returned to Europe by the Cape of Good +Hope. But to Captain Cook the arduous task was now assigned, of +attempting it by reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia and +America; and the adoption of this resolution was, I believe, the +result of his own reflections upon the subject. The usual plan, +therefore, of discovery was reversed; so that instead of a passage +from the Atlantic to the Pacific, one from the latter into the former +was to be tried. Whatever openings or inlets there might be on the +east side of America, that lie in a direction which could afford any +hopes of a passage, it was wisely foreseen, that the ultimate success +of the expedition would depend upon there being an open sea between +the west side of that continent and the extremities of Asia. +Accordingly Captain Cook was ordered to proceed into the Pacific +Ocean, through the chain of the new islands which had been visited by +him in the southern tropic. After having crossed the equator into the +northern parts of that ocean, he was then to hold such a course as +might probably fix many interesting points in geography, and produce +intermediate discoveries, in his progress northward to the principal +scene of his operations. With regard to his grand object, it was +determined, for the wisest reasons, and after the most mature +deliberation and inquiry, that upon his arrival on the coast of New +Albion, he should proceed northward as far as the latitude of 65°, and +not lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other +account, until he had gotten into that latitude. + +To give every possible encouragement to the prosecution of the great +design in view, the motives of interest were added to the obligations +of duty. In the act of parliament which passed in 1745, the reward of +twenty thousand pounds had been only held out to the ships +_belonging to any of his majesty's subjects_, while his majesty's +own ships were excluded. Another, and more capital defect in this act +was, that it confined the reward to such ships alone as should +discover a passage though Hudson's Bay. By a new law, which passed in +1776, both these deficiencies were effectually remedied. It was now +enacted,--'That if any ship, belonging to any of his majesty's +subjects, or _to his majesty_, shall find out, and sail through +any passage by sea, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans; in _any +direction_, or parallel of the northern hemisphere, to the +northward of the 52° of northern latitude, the owners of such ships, +if belonging to any of his majesty's subject, or _the commander, +officers, and seamen of such ship belonging to his majesty_, shall +receive, as a reward for such discovery, the sum of twenty thousand +pounds.' + +That every thing might be done which could facilitate the success of +the grand expedition, Lieutenant Pickersgill was sent out, in 1776, +with directions to explore the coast of Baffin's Bay; and in the next +year, Lieutenant Young was commissioned not only to examine the +western parts of that bay, but to endeavour to find a passage on that +side, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Nothing was performed by +either of these gentlemen that promoted the purposes of Captain Cook's +voyage. + +Two vessels were fixed upon by government for the intended service; +the Resolution and the Discovery. The command of the former was given +to Captain Cook, and of the other to Captain Clerke. To the Resolution +was assigned the same complement of officers and men which she had +during her preceding voyage; and the only difference in the +establishment of the Discovery from that of the Adventure, was in the +single instance of her having no marine officer on board. + +From the time of the two ships being put into commission, the greatest +degree of attention and zeal, was exerted by the Earl of Sandwich and +the rest of the board of admiralty, to have them equipped in the most +complete manner. Both the vessels were supplied with as much of every +necessary article as could conveniently be stowed, and with the best +of each kind that could be procured. Whatever, likewise, the +experience of the former voyages had shewn to be of any utility in +preserving the health of seamen, was provided in large abundance. That +some permanent benefit might be conveyed to the inhabitants of +Otaheite, and of the other islands of the Pacific Ocean, whom our +navigators might happen to visit, it was graciously commanded by his +majesty, that an assortment of useful animals should be carried out to +those countries. Accordingly, a bull, two cows with their calves, and +several sheep, with hay and corn for their subsistence, were taken on +board; and it was intended to add other serviceable animals to these, +when Captain Cook should arrive at the Cape of Good Hope. With the +same benevolent purposes, the captain was furnished with a sufficient +quantity, of such of our European garden seeds, as could not fail of +being a valuable present to the newly discovered islands, by adding +fresh supplies of food to their own vegetable productions. By order of +the board of admiralty, many articles besides were delivered to our +commander, which were calculated, in various ways, to improve the +condition of the natives of the other hemisphere. Still farther to +promote a friendly intercourse with them, and to carry on a traffic +that might be profitable on both sides, an ample assortment was +provided of iron tools and trinkets. An attention no less humane was +extended to the wants of our own people. Some additional clothing, +adapted to a cold climate, was ordered for the crews of the two ships; +and nothing was denied to our navigators that could be supposed to be +in the least conducive to their health, or even to their convenience. + +It was not to these things only, that the extraordinary care of Lord +Sandwich, and of the other gentlemen at the head of the naval +department, was confined. They were equally solicitous to afford every +assistance that was calculated to render the expedition of public +utility. Several astronomical and nautical instruments were entrusted, +by the board of longitude, to Captain Cook, and Mr. King his second +lieutenant; who had undertaken to make the necessary observations, +during the voyage, for the improvement of astronomy and navigation. It +was originally intended that a professed observator should be sent out +in the Resolution; but the scientific abilities of the captain and his +lieutenant rendered the appointment of such a person absolutely +unnecessary. The case was somewhat different with regard to the +Discovery. Mr. William Bayley, who had already given satisfactory +proofs of his skill and diligence as an observator, while he was +employed in Captain Furneaux's ship, during the late voyage was +engaged a second time in that capacity, and appointed to sail on board +Captain Clerke's vessel. The department of natural history was +assigned to Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who was as +willing, as he was well qualified, to describe every thing in that +branch of science which should occur worthy of notice. From the +remarks of this gentleman, Captain Cook had derived considerable +assistance in his last navigation; especially with regard to the very +copious vocabulary of the language of Otaheite, and the comparative +specimen of the languages of the other islands which had then been +visited. There were several young men among our commander's sea +officers, who, under his direction, could be usefully employed in +constructing charts, in taking views of the coasts and headlands near +which our voyagers might pass, and in drawing plans of the bays and +harbours in which they should anchor. Without a constant attention to +this object the captain was sensible, that his discoveries could not +be rendered profitable to future navigators. That he might go out with +every help, which could serve to make the result of the voyage +entertaining to the generality of readers, as well as instructive to +the sailor and the scholar. Mr. Webber was fixed upon, and engaged to +embark in the Resolution, for the express purpose of supplying the +unavoidable imperfections of written accounts, by enabling our people +to preserve and to bring home, such drawings of the most memorable +scenes of their transactions, as could only be executed by a professed +and skilful artist. + +As the last mark of the extraordinary attention which the Earl of +Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the board of admiralty had +uniformly shewn to the preparations for the expedition, they went down +to Long Reach, and paid a visit to the ships, on the 8th of June, to +examine whether everything was completed conformably to their +intentions and orders, and to the satisfaction of all who were to +embark in the voyage. His lordship and the rest of the admiralty +board, together with several noblemen and gentlemen of their +acquaintance, honoured Captain Cook, on that day, with their company +at dinner. Both upon their coming on board, and their going ashore, +they were saluted with seventeen guns, and with three cheers. + +As the ships were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands, it had +been determined not to omit the only opportunity which might ever +offer of carrying Omai back to his native country. Accordingly, he +left London, on the 24th of June, in company with Captain Cook; and it +was with a mixture of regret and satisfaction that he took his +departure. When England, and those who during the stay, had honoured +him with their protection or friendship, were spoken of, his spirits +were sensibly affected, and it was with difficulty that he could +refrain from tears. But his eyes began to sparkle with joy, as soon as +ever the conversation was turned to his own islands. The good +treatment he received in England had made a deep impression upon his +mind; and he entertained the highest ideas of the country and of the +people. Nevertheless, the pleasing prospect he had before him of +returning home, loaded with what, he well knew, would there be +esteemed invaluable treasures, and the flattering hope, which the +possession of these afforded him, of attaining a distinguished +superiority among his countrymen, were considerations which operated, +by degrees, to suppress every uneasy sensation. By the time he had +gotten on board the ship, he appeared to be quite happy. + +His majesty had furnished Omai with an ample provision of every +article which our English navigators, during their former intercourse +with Otaheite and the Society Islands, had observed to be in any +estimation there, either as useful or ornamental. Many presents, +likewise, of the same nature, had been made him by Lord Sandwich, Sir +Joseph Banks, and several other gentlemen and ladies of his +acquaintance. In short, both during his residence in England, and at +his departure from it, no method had been neglected, which could be +calculated to render him the instrument of conveying to the +inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean, the most exalted +ideas of the greatness and generosity of the British nation. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Narrative of Captain Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, to the Period +of his Death. + + +Every preparation for the voyage being completed, Captain Cook +received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take the Discovery +under his command. Having, accordingly, given the proper directions to +Captain Clerke, he sailed from the Nore to the Downs, on the 25th of +June. On the 30th of the same month, he anchored in Plymouth Sound, +where the Discovery was already arrived. It was the 8th day of July +before our commander received his instructions for the voyage; and at +the same time, he was ordered to proceed with the Resolution, to the +Cape of Good Hope. Captain Clerke, who was detained in London, by some +unavoidable circumstances, was to follow as soon as he should join his +ship. + +In the evening of the 12th, Captain Cook stood out of Plymouth Sound, +and pursued his course down the Channel. It was very early that he +began his judicious operations for preserving the health of his crew: +for, on the 17th, the ship was smoked between the decks with +gunpowder, and the spare sails were well aired. On the 30th, the moon +being totally eclipsed, the captain observed it with a night +telescope. He had not, on this occasion, an opportunity of making many +observations. The reason was, that the moon was hidden behind the +clouds the greater part of the time; and this was particularly the +case, when the beginning and the end of total darkness, and the end of +the eclipse, happened. + +It being found, that there was not hay and corn sufficient for the +subsistence of the stock of animals on board, till the arrival of our +people at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Cook determined to touch at +Teneriffe. This island he thought better adapted to the purposes of +procuring these articles, and other refreshments, than Madeira. On the +1st of August, he anchored in the road of Santa Cruz, and immediately +dispatched an officer to the governor, who, with the utmost +politeness, granted everything which our commander requested. + +Were a judgment to be formed from the appearance of the country in the +neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, it might be concluded that Teneriffe is +so barren a spot, as to be insufficient for the maintenance even of +its own inhabitants. It was proved, however, by the ample supplies +which our navigators received, that the islanders had enough to spare +for visitors. The necessary articles of refreshment were procured at +such moderate prices, as to confirm Captain Cook in his opinion, that +Teneriffe is a more eligible place than Madeira, for ships to touch +at, which are bound on long voyages. Indeed, the wine of the latter +island is far superior to that of the former; but then it can only be +purchased by a sum of money proportionably larger. + +During the short stay which the captain made at Teneriffe, he +continued with great assiduity his astronomical observations; and Mr. +Anderson has not a little contributed to the farther knowledge of the +country, by his remarks on its general state, its natural appearances, +its productions, and its inhabitants. He learned, from a sensible and +well informed gentleman, who resided in the island, that a shrub is +common there, which agrees exactly with the description given by +Tournefort and Linnaeus, of the _tea shrub_, as growing in China +and Japan. It is reckoned a weed, and every year is rooted out in +large quantities from the vineyards. The Spaniards, however, sometimes +use it as tea, and ascribe to it all the qualities of that which is +imported from China. They give it also the name of tea, and say that +it was found in the country when the islands were first discovered. +Another botanical curiosity is called the _impregnated lemon_; +which is a perfect and distinct lemon enclosed within another, and +differing from the outer one only in being a little more globular. + +The air and climate of Teneriffe are, in general, remarkably +healthful, and particularly adapted to give relief in pulmonary +complaints. This the gentleman before mentioned endeavoured to account +for, from its being always in a person's power to procure a different +temperature of the air, by residing at different heights in the +island. He expressed, therefore, his surprise that the physicians of +England should never have thought of sending their consumptive +patients to Teneriffe, instead of Nice or Lisbon. + +Although it is not understood that there is any great similarity +between the manners of the English and those of the Spaniards, it was +observable, that the difference between them was very little perceived +by Omai. He only said, that the Spaniards did not appear to be so +friendly as the English; and that, in their persons, they approached +to some resemblance of his own countrymen. + +On the 4th, Captain Cook sailed from Teneriffe, and proceeded on his +voyage. Such was his attention, both to the discipline and the health +of his company, that twice in the space of five days, he exercised +them at great guns and small arms, and cleared and smoked the ship +below decks. On the evening of the 10th, when the Resolution was at a +small distance from the island of Bonavista, she ran so close upon a +number of sunken rocks, that she did but just weather the breakers. +The situation of our voyagers, for a few minutes, was very alarming. +In this situation the captain, with the intrepid coolness which +distinguished his character, did not choose to sound, as that, without +any possibility of lessening, might have heightened the danger. + +While our commander was near the Cape de Verde Islands, he had an +opportunity of correcting an assertion of Mr. Nicholson with regard to +the manner of sailing by those islands, which, if implicitly trusted +to, might prove of dangerous consequence. On the 13th, our navigators +arrived before Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago; but as the +Discovery was not there, and little water had been expended in the +passage from Teneriffe, Captain Cook did not think proper to go in; +but stood to the southward. + +In the course of the voyage, between the latitudes of 12° and 7° +north, the weather was generally dark and gloomy. The rains were +frequent, and accompanied with that close and sultry weather, which +too often brings on sickness in this passage. At such a time, the +worst consequences are to be apprehended: and commanders of ships +cannot be too much upon their guard. It is necessary for them to +purify the air between decks with fire and smoke, and to oblige their +people to dry their clothes at every opportunity. The constant +observance of these precautions on board the Resolution was attended +with such success, that the captain had now fewer sick men than on +either of his former voyages. This was the more remarkable, as, in +consequence of the seams of the vessel having opened so wide, as to +admit the rain when it fell, there was scarcely a man who could lie +dry in his bed; and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out +of their cabins by the water that came through the sides. When settled +weather returned, the caulkers were employed in repairing these +defects, by caulking the decks and inside weather-works of the ship; +for the humanity of our commander would not trust the workmen over the +sides, while the Resolution was at sea. + +On the 1st of September, our navigators crossed the equator. While, on +the 8th, Captain Cook was near the eastern coast of Brazil, he was at +considerable pains to settle its longitude, which, till some better +astronomical observations are made on shore in that country, he +concluded to be thirty-five degrees and a half, or thirty-six degrees +west, at most. + +As our people proceeded on their voyage, they frequently saw, in the +night, those luminous marine animals, which have formerly been +mentioned and described. Some of them appeared to be considerably +larger than any which the captain had met with before; and sometimes +they were so numerous, that hundreds of them were visible at the same +moment. + +On the 18th of October, the Resolution came to an anchor in Table Bay, +at the Cape of Good Hope; and the usual compliments having been paid +to Baron Plettenberg the governor, Captain Cook immediately applied +himself to his customary operations. Nothing remarkable occurred till +the evening of the 31st, when a tempest arose from the south-east, +which lasted three days, and which was so violent that the Resolution +was the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging +her anchors. The effects of the storm were sensibly felt by our people +on shore; for their tents and observatory were torn to pieces, and +their astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On +the 3rd of November, the tempest ceased, and the next day the English +were enabled to resume their different employments. + +It was not till the 10th of the month, that Captain Cook had the +satisfaction of seeing the Discovery arrive in the bay, and effect her +junction with the Resolution. She had sailed from England on the 1st +of August, and would have reached the Cape of Good Hope a week sooner, +if she had not been driven from the coast by the late storm. Every +assistance was immediately given to put her into a proper condition +for proceeding on the voyage. + +While the necessary preparations for the future navigation was +completing, a disaster happened with regard to the cattle which had +been carried out in the Resolution. They had been conveyed on shore +for the purpose of grazing. The bull, and two cows, with their calves, +had been sent to graze along with some other cattle: but Captain Cook +was advised to keep the sheep, which were sixteen in number, close to +the tents, where they were penned up every evening. During the night +preceding the 14th, some dogs having gotten in among them, forced them +out of the pen, killed four, and dispersed the rest. Six of them were +recovered the next day; but the two rams and two of the finest ewes in +the whole flock, were amongst those which were missing. Baron +Plettenberg being at this time in the country, our commander applied +to Mr. Hemmy, the lieutenant-governor, and to the fiscal, for redress; +and both these gentlemen promised to use their endeavours for the +recovery of the lost sheep. It is the boast of the Dutch, that the +police at the Cape is so carefully executed, that it is scarcely +possible for a slave, with all his cunning and knowledge of the +country, to effectuate his escape. Nevertheless, Captain Cook's sheep +evaded all the vigilance of the fiscal's officers and people. At +length, after much trouble and expense, by employing some of the +meanest and lowest scoundrels in the place, he recovered all but the +two ewes, of which he never could hear the least tidings. The +character given of the fellows to whom the captain was obliged to have +recourse, by the person who recommended their being applied to, was, +that for a ducatoon they would cut their master's throat, burn the +house over his head, and bury him and the whole family in the ashes. + +During the stay of our voyagers at the Cape, some of the officers, +accompanied by Mr. Anderson, made a short excursion into the +neighbouring country. This gentleman, as usual, was very diligent in +recording every thing which appeared to him worthy of observation. His +remarks, however, in the present case, will be deemed of little +consequence, compared with the full, accurate, and curious account of +the Cape of Good Hope, with which Dr. Sparrman hath lately favoured +the literary world. + +With respect to Captain Cook, besides the unavoidable care which lay +upon him, in providing his ships with whatever was requisite for the +commodious and successful prosecution of the voyage, his attention was +eminently directed to scientific objects. He was anxious to ascertain +the currents, the variations of the compass, and the latitude and +longitude of the places to which he came. The observations which he +collected, and recorded in his journal, while he was at the Cape of +Good Hope, will be esteemed of the greatest importance by judicious +navigators. + +After the disaster which had happened to the sheep, it may well be +supposed that our commander did not long trust on shore those which +remained. Accordingly, he gave orders to have them, and the other +cattle, conveyed on board as fast as possible. He made an addition, +also, to the original stock, by the purchase of two young bulls, two +heifers, two young stallions, two mares, two rams, several ewes and +goats, and some rabbits and poultry. All these animals were intended +for New Zealand. Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands; and, indeed, +for any other places in the course of the voyage, where the leaving of +any of them might be of service to posterity. + +In the supplies which were provided at the Cape, Captain Cook paid a +particular regard to the nature and extent of his undertaking. As it +was impossible to tell when or where he might meet with a place, which +could so amply contribute to his necessities, he thought proper to lay +in such a store of provisions for both ships, as would be sufficient +to last them for two years and upwards. + +Our commander having given a copy of his instructions to Captain +Clerke, and an order directing him how to proceed in case of a +separation, weighed from Table Bay on the 30th of November, though it +was not till the 3rd of December that he got clear of the land. On the +6th the ships passed through several spots of water, nearly of a red +colour. When some of this was taken up, it was found to contain a +large quantity of small animals, of a reddish hue, and which the +microscope discovered to resemble a cray-fish. As our navigators +pursued their course to the south-east, a very strong gale, which they +had from the westward, was followed by a mountainous sea, in +consequence of which the Resolution rolled and tumbled so much, that +the cattle on board were preserved with the utmost difficulty. Soon +after, several of the goats, especially the males, together with some +sheep, died, notwithstanding, all the care to prevent it, that was +exercised by our people. This misfortune was chiefly owing to the +coldness of the weather, which now began to be felt in the most +sensible manner. + +On the 12th, land was seen, which, upon a nearer approach, was found +to consist of two islands. That which lies most to the south, and is +the largest, was judged by Captain Cook to be about fifteen leagues in +circuit. The northerly one is about nine leagues in circuit; and the +two islands are at the distance of five leagues from each other. As +the ships passed through the channel between them, our voyagers could +not discover with the assistance of their best glasses, either tree or +shrub on either of them. They seemed to have a rocky and bold shore, +and their surface is for the most part composed of barren mountains, +the summits and sides of which were covered with snow. These two +islands, together with four others which lie from nine to twelve +degrees of longitude more to the east, and nearly in the same +latitude, had been discovered by Captains Marion du Fresne and Crozet, +French navigators, in January, 1772, on their passage, in two ships +from the Cape of Good Hope to the Philippine Islands. As no names had +been assigned to them in a chart of the Southern Ocean, which Captain +Crozet communicated to Captain Cook in 1775, our commander +distinguished the two larger ones by calling them Prince Edward's +Islands, after his majesty's fourth son. To the other four, with a +view of commemorating the discoverers, he gave the name of Marion's +and Crozet's Islands. + +Though it was now the middle of summer in this hemisphere, the weather +was not less severe than what is generally met with in England in the +very depth of winter. Instead however, of being discouraged by this +circumstance, the captain shaped his course in such a manner, as to +pass to the southward of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, that he might +get into the latitude of land which had been discovered by M. de +Kerguelen, another French navigator. It was part of our commander's +instructions to examine whether a good harbour might not here be +found. + +As our voyagers, on the 24th, were steering to the eastward, a fog +clearing up a little, which had involved them for some time, and which +had rendered their navigation both tedious and dangerous, land was +seen, bearing south-south-east. Upon a nearer approach, it was found +to be an island of considerable height, and about three leagues in +circuit. Another island, of the same magnitude, was soon after +discovered, and in a short space a third, besides some smaller ones. +At times, as the fog broke away, there was the appearance of land over +the small islands, and Captain Cook entertained thoughts of steering +for it, by running in between them. But, on drawing nearer, he found +that, so long as the weather continued foggy this would be a perilous +attempt. For if there should be no passage, or if our people should +meet with any sudden danger, there was such a prodigious sea, breaking +on all the shores in a frightful surf, that it would have been +impossible for the vessels to be gotten off. At the same time, the +captain saw another island; and as he did not know how many more might +succeed, he judged it prudent, in order to avoid getting entangled +among unknown lands in a thick fog, to wait for clearer weather. + +The island last mentioned is a high round rock, which was named +Bligh's Cap. Our commander had received some very slight information +concerning it at Teneriffe, and his sagacity in tracing it was such, +as immediately led him to determine, that it was the same that M. de +Kerguelen had called the Isle of Rendezvous. His reason for giving it +that name is not very apparent; for nothing can rendezvous upon it but +fowls of the air, it being certainly inaccessible to every other +animal. The weather beginning to clear up, Captain Cook steered in for +the land, of which a faint view had been obtained in the morning. This +was Kerguelen's land. No sooner had our navigators gotten off Cape +François, then they observed the coast to the southward, to be much +indented by projecting points and bays; from which circumstance they +were sure of finding a good harbour. Accordingly, such a harbour was +speedily discovered, in which the ships came to an anchor on the 25th, +being Christmas-day. Upon landing, our commander found the shore +almost entirely covered with penguins and other birds, and with seals. +The latter, which were not numerous, having been unaccustomed to +visitors, were so insensible of fear, that as many as were wanted for +the purpose of making use of their fat or blubber, were killed without +difficulty. Fresh water was so plentiful, that every gully afforded a +large stream; but not a single tree or shrub, or the least sign of it, +could be met with, and but very little herbage of any sort. Before +Captain Cook returned to his ship, he ascended the first ridge of +rocks, that rise in a kind of amphitheatre, above one another, in +hopes of obtaining a view of the country; in which, however, he was +disappointed: for, previously to his reaching the top, there came on +so thick a fog, that he could scarcely find his way down again. In the +evening, the seine was hauled at the head of the harbour, but only +half a dozen small fish were caught. As no better success attended a +trial which was made the next day with hook and line, the only +resource for fresh provision was in birds, the store of which was +inexhaustible. + +The people having wrought hard for two days, and nearly completed +their water the captain allowed them the 27th, as a day of rest, to +celebrate Christmas. Many of them, in consequence of this indulgence, +went on shore, and made excursions, in different directions, into the +country which they found barren and desolate in the highest degree. +One of them in his ramble, discovered, and brought to our commander, +in the evening, a quart bottle, fastened with some wire to a +projecting rock on the north side of the harbour. This bottle +contained a piece of parchment, on which was written the following +inscription: + + _Ludovico XV. Galliarum + rege et d. de Boynes + regi a Secretis ad Res + maritimas annis 1772 et + 1773._ + +It was clear, from this inscription, that our English navigators were +not the first who had been in the place. As a memorial of our people's +having touched at the same harbour, Captain Cook wrote, as follows, on +the other side of the parchment: + + _Naves Resolution + et Discovery + de Rege Magnae Britanniae, + Decembris, 1776._ + +He then put it again into the bottle, together with a silver twopenny +piece of 1772. Having covered the mouth of the bottle with a leaden +cap, he placed it, the next morning in a pile of stones, erected for +the purpose, upon a little eminence on the north shore of the harbour, +and near to the place where it was first found. In this position it +cannot escape the notice of any European, whom accident or design may +bring into the port. Here the captain displayed the British flag, and +named the place Christmas Harbour, from our voyagers having arrived in +it on that festival. + +After our commander had finished the business of the inscription, he +went in his boat round the harbour, to examine what the shore +afforded. His more particular object was to look for drift-wood; but +he did not find a single piece throughout the whole extent of the +place. On the same day, accompanied by Mr. King, his second +lieutenant, he went upon Cape François, with the hope, that, from this +elevation, he might obtain a view of the sea-coast, and of the +adjoining islands. But when he had gotten up, he found, that every +distant object below him was obscured in a thick fog. The land on the +same plain, or of a greater height, was sufficiently visible, and +appeared naked and desolate in the highest degree; some hills to the +southward excepted, which were covered with snow. + +On the 29th, Captain Cook departed from Christmas Harbour, and +proceeded to range along the coast, with a view of discovering its +position and extent. In pursuing his course he met with several +promontories and bays, together with a peninsula, all of which he has +described and named, chiefly in honour of his various friends. Such +was the danger of the navigation, that the ships had more than once a +very narrow escape. On the same day, another harbour was discovered, +in which the vessels came to an anchor for one night. Here the +captain, Mr. Gore, and Mr. Bayley went on shore to examine the +country, which they found, if possible, more barren and desolate than +the land that lies about Christmas Harbour: and yet, if the least +fertility were any where to be expected, it ought to have existed in +this place, which is completely sheltered from the bleak and +predominating southerly and westerly winds. Our commander observed, +with regret, that there was neither food nor covering for cattle of +any sort; and that, if he left any, they must inevitably perish. +Finding no encouragement to continue his researches, he weighed anchor +and put to sea on the 30th, having given to the harbour the name of +Port Palliser. On the same day, he came to a point, which proved to be +the very eastern extremity of Kerguelen's Land. In a large bay, near +this point, there was a prodigious quantity of sea-weed, some of which +is of a most extraordinary length. It seemed to be the same kind of +vegetable production that Sir Joseph Banks had formerly distinguished +by the appellation of _fucus giganteus_. Although the stem is not +much thicker than a man's hand, Captain Cook thought himself well +warranted to say, that part of it grows to the length of sixty fathoms +and upward. + +The result of the examination of Kerguelen's Land was, that the +quantity of latitude which it occupies doth not much exceed one degree +and a quarter. Its extent, from east to west, still remains undecided. +At its first discovery, it was probably supposed to belong to a +southern continent; but, in fact, it is an island, and that of no +great extent. If our commander had not been unwilling to deprive M. +Kerguelen of the honour of its bearing his name, he would have been +disposed, from its sterility, to call it the Island of Desolation. + +It should here be mentioned, that M. de Kerguelen made two visits to +the coast of this country; one in 1772 and another in 1773. With the +first of these voyages Captain Cook had only a very slight +acquaintance; and to the second he was totally a stranger; so that he +scarcely had any opportunity of comparing his own discoveries with +those of the French navigator. M. de Kerguelen was peculiarly +unfortunate, in having done but little to complete what he had begun; +for though he discovered a new land, he could not, in two expeditions +to it, once bring his ships to an anchor upon any part of its coasts. +Captain Cook had either fewer difficulties to struggle with, or was +more successful in surmounting them. + +During the short time in which our voyagers lay in Christmas Harbour, +Mr. Anderson lost no opportunity of searching the country in every +direction. Perhaps no place, hitherto discovered, under the same +parellel of latitude, affords so scanty a field for a natural +historian. All that could be known in the space of time allotted him, +and probably all that will ever be worthy to be known, was collected +by this gentleman. A verdure, which had been seen at a little distance +from the shore, gave our people the flattering expectation of meeting +with a variety of herbage: but in this they were greatly deceived. On +landing, it was perceived, that the lively colour which had imposed +upon them, was occasioned only by one small plant, not unlike some +sorts of _saxifrage_. It grows in large spreading tufts a +considerable way up the hills. The whole catalogue of plants does not +exceed sixteen or eighteen, including several kinds of moss, and a +beautiful species of lichen, which rises higher up from the rocks than +the rest of the vegetable productions. There is not the appearance of +a shrub in the whole country. Nature has been somewhat more bountiful +in furnishing it with animals; though, strictly speaking, they are not +inhabitants of the place, being all of the marine kind. In general, +the land is only used by them for breeding, and as a resting place. Of +these animals the most considerable are seals; being of that sort +which is called the ursine seal. The birds, which have already been +mentioned as very numerous, chiefly consist of penguins, ducks, +petrels, albatrosses, shags, gulls, and sea swallows. Penguins, which +are far superior in number to the rest are of three kinds, one of +which had never been seen by any of our voyagers before. The rocks, or +foundations of the hills are principally composed of that dark blue +and very hard stone, which seems to be one of the most universal +productions of nature. Nothing was discovered that had the least +appearance of ore or metal. + +From this desolate coast Captain Cook took his departure on the 31st, +intending, agreeably to his instructions, to touch next at New +Zealand; that he might obtain a recruit of water, take in wood, and +make hay for the cattle. Their number was now considerably diminished; +for two young bulls, one of the heifers, two rams, and several of the +goats, had died while our navigators where employed in exploring +Kerguelen's Land. For some time they had fresh gales, and tolerably +clear weather. But on the 3rd of January, 1777, the wind veered to the +north, where it continued eight days, and was attended with so thick a +fog, that the ships ran above three hundred leagues in the dark. +Occasionally the weather would clear up, and give our people a sight +of the sun; but this happened very seldom, and was always of short +continuance. However, amidst all the darkness produced by the fog, the +vessels, though they seldom saw each other, were so fortunate, in +consequence of frequently firing guns as signals, that they did not +lose company. On the 12th, the northerly winds ended in a calm. This +was succeeded, in a little time, by a wind from the southward, which +brought on a rain that continued for twenty-four hours. At the end of +the rain, the wind freshened, and veering to the west and north-west, +was followed by fair and clear weather. + +Nothing very remarkable occurred to our voyagers till the 24th, when +they discovered the coast of Van Dieman's Land; and, on the 26th, the +ships came to an anchor in Adventure Bay. Captain Cook, as soon as he +had anchored, ordered the boats to be hoisted out; in one of which he +went himself, to look for the most commodious place for obtaining the +necessary supplies. Wood and water were found in abundance, and in +places sufficiently convenient; but grass, which was most wanted, was +scarce, and, at the same time, very coarse. Necessity, however, +obliged our people to take up with such as could be procured. + +On the 28th, the English who were employed in cutting wood, were +agreeably surprised with a visit from some of the natives. They +consisted of eight men and a boy, who approached our voyagers not only +without fear, but with the most perfect confidence and freedom. There +was only a single person among them who had any thing which bore the +least appearance of a weapon, and that was no more than a stick about +two feet long, and pointed at one end. These people were quite naked, +and wore no kind of ornaments; unless some large punctures, or ridges, +raised in different parts of their bodies, either in straight or +curved lines, may be considered in that light. Most of them had their +hair and beards smeared with a red ointment: and the faces of some of +them were painted with the same composition. Every present which +Captain Cook made them they received without the least appearance of +satisfaction. Of bread and elephant fish, which were offered them, +they refused to taste, but shewed that they were fond of birds, as an +article of food. Two pigs, which the captain had brought on shore, +having come within their reach, they seized them by the ears, as a dog +would have done, and would have carried them off immediately, +apparently with no other intention than to kill them. Our commander +being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of the +Indians had in his hands, he signified, by signs, his wishes to that +purpose. His intimations so far succeeded, that one of them set up a +piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it at the distance of about +twenty yards. There was but little reason to commend his dexterity; +for, after repeated trials, he was still very wide from his object. +Omai, to convince the natives how much our weapons were superior to +theirs, then fired his musket at the mark by which they were so +greatly terrified, that, notwithstanding all the endeavours of the +English to quiet their minds, they ran instantly into the woods. + +After the retreat of the Indians, Captain Cook, judging that their +fears would prevent their remaining near enough to observe what +passed, ordered the two pigs, being a boar and sow, to be carried +about a mile within the head of the bay, and saw them left there, by +the side of a fresh water brook. It was, at first, his benevolent +intention to make an additional present to Van Dieman's Land, of a +young bull and cow, together with some sheep and goats. But, upon +reflection, he laid aside this design; being persuaded that the +natives would destroy them, from, their incapacity of entering into +his views with regard to the improvement of their country. As pigs are +animals which soon become wild, and are fond of the thickest cover of +the woods, there was the greater probability of their being preserved. +For the accommodation of the other cattle, an open place must have +been chosen; in which situation they could not possibly have been +concealed many days. + +On the 29th, about twenty of the inhabitants, men and boys, joined +Captain Cook and such of his people as had landed with him, without +manifesting the least sign of fear or distrust. It was remarkable, +that one of the Indians was conspicuously deformed; nor was he more +distinguished by the hump upon his back, than by the drollery of his +gestures, and the humour of his speeches, which had the appearance of +being intended for the entertainment of our voyagers. Unfortunately, +the language in which he spake to them was wholly unintelligible. To +each of the present group the captain gave a string of beads and a +medal, which they seemed to receive with some satisfaction. On iron, +and iron tools, they appeared to set no value. There was reason to +believe, that they were even ignorant of fish-hooks; and yet it is +difficult to suppose, that a people who inhabit a sea-coast, and who +were not observed to derive any part of their sustenance from the +productions of the ground, should be unacquainted with some mode of +catching fish. However, they were never seen to be thus employed; nor +was any canoe or vessel discovered by which they could go upon the +water. Though they had rejected the kind of fish which had been +offered them, it was evident that shell fish made a part of their +food. + +After Captain Cook had left the shore, several women and children made +their appearance, and were introduced to Lieutenant King by some of +the men that attended them. These females (a kanguroo skin excepted, +which was tied over their shoulders, and seemed to be intended to +support their infants) were as naked and as black as the men, and had +their bodies marked with scars in the same manner. Many of the +children had fine features, and were thought to be pretty; but a less +favourable report was made of the women, and especially of those who +were advanced in years. Some of the gentlemen, however, belonging to +the Discovery, as our commander was informed, paid their addresses and +made liberal offers of presents, which were rejected with great +disdain. It is certain that this gallantry was not very agreeable to +the men: for an elderly man, as soon as he observed it, ordered the +women to retire. The order was obeyed; but, on the part of some of the +females, with the appearance of a little reluctance. + +On the present occasion, Captain Cook made some proper and pertinent +reflections, which I shall deliver in his own words. 'This conduct,' +says he, 'of Europeans among savages, to their women, is highly +blamable; as it creates a jealousy in their men, that may be attended +with consequences fatal to the success of the common enterprise, and +to the whole body of adventures, without advancing the private purpose +of the individual, or enabling him to gain the object of his wishes. I +believe it has generally been found, amongst uncivilized people, that +where the women are easy of access, the men are the first to offer +them to strangers; and that, where this is not the case, neither the +allurements of presents, nor the opportunity of privacy will be likely +to have the desired effect. This observation, I am sure, will hold +good throughout all the parts of the South Sea where I have been. Why +then should men act so absurd a part, as to risk their own safety, and +that of all their companions, in pursuit of a gratification, which +they have no probability of obtaining?' + +While our navigators were at Van Dieman's Land, they were successful +in obtaining a plentiful crop of grass for their cattle, and such as +was far more excellent than what they had met with at their first +going on shore. The quantity collected was judged by the captain to be +sufficient to last till his arrival in New-Zealand. + +Van Dieman's Land had been visited twice before. That name had been +given it by Tasman, who discovered it in 1642; from which time it had +escaped all notice of European navigators, till Captain Furneaux +touched at it, in 1773. It is well known that it is the southern point +of New Holland, which is by far the largest island in the world; +indeed, so large an island, as almost to deserve the appellation of a +continent. + +While Captain Cook was at this country, he neglected nothing which +could promote the knowledge of science and navigation. Here, as every +where else, he settled the latitude and longitude of places; marked +the variations of the compass, and recorded the nature of the tides. +He corrected, likewise, an error of Captain Furneaux, with respect to +the situation of Maria's Islands; on which subject he hath candidly +remarked, that his own idea is not the result of a more faithful, but +merely of a second, examination. + +Mr. Anderson, during the few days in which the ships remained in +Adventure Bay, exerted his usual diligence in collecting as full an +account as could be obtained, in so short a period of time, of the +natural productions and the inhabitants of the country. Little can be +said concerning either the personal activity or genius of the natives. +The first, they do not seem to possess in any remarkable degree; and, +to all appearance, they have less of the last, than even the +half-animated inhabitants of Terra del Fuego. Their not expressing +that surprise which might have been expected, from their seeing men so +much unlike themselves, and things to which they had hitherto been +utter strangers; their indifference for the presents of our people, +and their general inattention, were sufficient testimonies that they +were not endued with any acuteness of understanding. What the ancient +poets tell us of Fauns and Satyrs living in hollow trees is realized +at Van Dieman's Land. Some wretched constructions of sticks, covered +with bark, and which did not deserve the name of huts, were indeed +found near the shore; but these seemed only to have been erected for +temporary purposes. The most comfortable habitations of the natives +were afforded by the largest trees. These had their trunks hollowed +out by fire, to the height of six or seven feet; and there was room +enough in them for three or four persons to sit round a hearth, made +of clay. At the same time, these places of shelter are durable; for +the people take care to leave one side of the tree sound, which is +sufficient to keep it in luxuriant growth. The inhabitants of Van +Dieman's Land are undoubtedly from the same stock with those of the +northern parts of New Holland. Their language, indeed, appeared to be +different; but how far the difference extended, our voyagers could not +have an opportunity of determining. With regard to the New Hollanders +in general, there is reason to suppose that they originally came from +the same place with all the Indians of the South Sea. + +On the 30th of January, 1777, Captain Cook sailed from Adventure Bay, +and on the 12th of February came to an anchor at his old station of +Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand. Being unwilling to lose any +time, he commenced his operations that very afternoon. By his order, +several of the empty water casks were immediately landed, and a place +was begun to be cleared for setting up the two observatories, and the +erection of tents, to accommodate a guard, and the rest of the +company, whose business might require them to remain on shore. Our +navigators had not long been at anchor, before a number of canoes, +filled with natives, came alongside of the ships. However, very few of +them would venture on board; which appeared the more extraordinary, as +the captain was well known to them all, and they could not be +insensible how liberally he had behaved to them on former occasions. +There was one man in particular, whom he had treated with remarkable +kindness, during the whole of his last stay in this place; and yet, +neither professions of friendship, nor presents, could prevail upon +him to enter the Resolution. + +There was a real cause for this shyness on the part of the New +Zealanders. A dreadful event had happened to some of Captain +Furneaux's crew, while he lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, after he had +finally separated from Captain Cook, in the former voyage. Ten men, +who had been sent out in the large cutter to gather wild greens, for +the ship's company, were killed in a skirmish with the natives. What +was the cause of the quarrel could not be ascertained, as not one of +the company survived to relate the story. Lieutenant Burney, who was +ordered to go in search of them, found only some fragments of their +bodies, from which it appeared that they had been converted into the +food of the inhabitants. It was the remembrance of this event, and the +fear of its being revenged, which now rendered the New Zealanders so +fearful of entering the English vessels. From the conversation of +Omai, who was on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair +happened, they knew that it could not be unknown to Captain Cook. The +captain, therefore, judged it necessary to use every endeavour to +assure them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should +not disturb them on account of the catastrophe. It was most probably +in consequence of this assurance, that they soon laid aside all manner +of restraint and distrust. + +In the meanwhile, the operations for refitting the ships, and for +obtaining provisions were carried on with great vigour, for the +protection of the party on shore, our commander appointed a guard of +ten marines, and ordered arms for all the workmen; with whom Mr. King, +and two or three petty officers, constantly remained. A boat was never +sent to a considerable distance without being armed, or without being +under the direction of such officers as might be depended upon, and +who were well acquainted with the natives. In Captain Cook's former +visits to this country, he had never made use of such precautions; nor +was he now convinced of their absolute necessity. But, after the +tragical fate of the crew of the Adventure's boat in this sound, and +of Captain Marion du Fresne, and some of his people, in the Bay of +Islands (in 1772), it was impossible to free our navigators from all +apprehensions of experiencing a similar calamity. + +Whatever suspicions the inhabitants might at first entertain, that +their acts of barbarity would be revenged, they very speedily became +so perfectly easy upon the subject, as to take up their residence +close to our voyagers; and the advantage of their coming to live with +the English was not inconsiderable. Every day, when the weather would +permit, some of them went out to catch fish, and our people generally +obtained, by exchanges, a good share of the produce of their labours, +in addition to the supply which was afforded by our own nets and +lines. Nor was there a deficiency of vegetable refreshments; to which +was united sprucebeer for drink; so that if the seeds of the scurvy +had been contracted by any of the crew, they would speedily have been +removed by such a regimen. The fact, however, was, that there was only +two invalids upon the sick lists in both ships. + +Curiosities, fish, and women, were the articles of commerce supplied +by the New Zealanders. The two first always came to a good market; but +the latter did not happen, at this time, to be an acceptable +commodity. Our seamen had conceived a dislike to these people, and +were either unwilling or afraid to associate with them; the good +effect of which was, that our commander knew no instance of a man's +quitting his station, to go to the habitations of the Indians. A +connexion with women it was out of Captain Cook's power to prevent; +but he never encouraged it, and always was fearful of its +consequences. Many, indeed, are of opinion, that such an intercourse +is a great security among savages. But if this should ever be the case +with those who remain and settle among them, it is generally otherwise +with respect to travellers and transient visitors. In such a situation +as was that of our navigators, a connexion with the women of the +natives, betrays more men than it saves. 'What else,' says the +captain, 'can reasonably be expected, since all their views are +selfish without the least mixture of regard or attachment? My own +experience, at least, which hath been pretty extensive, hath not +pointed out to me one instance to the contrary.' + +Amongst the persons who occasionally visited the English, was a chief +of the name of Kahoora, who, as Captain Cook was informed, had headed +the party that cutoff Captain Furneaux's people, and had himself +killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who commanded. This man our commander was +strongly solicited to put to death, even by some of the natives; and +Omai was perfectly eager and violent upon the subject. To these +solicitations the captain paid not the least degree of attention. He +even admired Kahoora's courage, and was not a little pleased with the +confidence with which he had put himself into his power. Kahoora had +placed his whole safety in the declarations that Captain Cook had +uniformly made to the New Zealanders; which were that he had always +been a friend to them all, and would continue to be so, unless they +gave him cause to act otherwise; that as to their inhuman treatment of +our people, he should think no more of it, the transaction having +happened long ago, and when he was not present; but that, if ever they +made a second attempt of the same kind, they might rest assured of +feeling the weight of his resentment. + +While our commander on the 16th, was making an excursion for the +purposes of collecting food for his cattle, he embraced the +opportunity to inquire, as accurately as possible, into the +circumstances which had attended the melancholy fate of our +countrymen. Omai was his interpreter on this occasion. The result of +the inquiry was, that the quarrel first took its rise from some +thefts, in the commission of which the natives were detected; that +there was no premeditated plan of bloodshed; and that if these thefts +had not, unfortunately, been too hastily resented, no mischief would +have happened. Kahoora's greatest enemies, and even the very men that +had most earnestly solicited his destruction, confessed, at the same +time, that he had no intention of quarrelling with Captain Furneaux's +people, and much less of killing any of them, till the fray had +actually commenced. + +Captain Cook continued in this his last visit to New Zealand, the +solicitude he had formerly shewn to be of some essential future +service to the country. To one chief he gave two goats, a male and +female, with a kid; and to another two pigs, a boar and a sow. +Although he had obtained a promise from both these chiefs, that they +would not kill the animals which had been presented to them, he could +not venture to place any great reliance upon their assurances. It was +his full intention, on his present arrival in Queen Charlotte's Sound, +to have left not only goats and hogs, but sheep, together with a young +bull and two heifers. The accomplishment, however, of this resolution +depended either upon his finding a chief, who was powerful enough to +protect and keep the cattle, or upon his meeting with a place where +there might be a probability of their being concealed from those who +would ignorantly attempt to destroy them. Neither of these +circumstances happened to be conformable to his wishes. At different +times he had left to New Zealand ten or a dozen hogs, besides those +which had been put on shore by Captain Furneaux. It will, therefore, +be a little extraordinary, if this race of animals should not increase +and be preserved, either in a wild or a domestic state, or in both. +Our commander was informed, that Tiratou, a popular chief among the +natives, had a number of cocks and hens, and one sow, in his separate +possession. With regard to the gardens which had formerly been planted +though they had almost entirely been neglected, and some of them +destroyed, they were not wholly unproductive. They were found to +contain cabbages, onions, leeks, purslain, radishes, mustard, and a +few potatoes. The potatoes, which had first been brought from the Cape +of Good Hope, were greatly meliorated by change of soil; and, with +proper cultivation, would be superior to those produced in most other +countries. + +A great addition of knowledge was obtained, during this voyage, with +respect to the productions of New Zealand, and the manners and the +customs of its inhabitants. The zeal of Captain Cook upon the subject +was admirably seconded by the sedulous diligence of Mr. Anderson, who +omitted no opportunity of collecting every kind and degree of +information. I shall only so far trespass on the patience of my +readers, as to mention a few circumstances tending to delineate the +character of the natives. They seemed to be a people perfectly +satisfied with the little they already possess; nor are they +remarkably curious either in their observations or their inquiries. +New objects are so far from striking them with such a degree of +surprise as might naturally be expected, that they scarcely fix their +attention even for a moment. In the arts with which they are +acquainted, they shew as much ingenuity, both in invention and +execution, as any uncivilized nations under similar circumstances. +Without the least use of those tools which are formed of metal, they +make every thing that is necessary to procure their subsistence, +clothing, and military weapons; and all this is done by them with a +neatness, a strength, and a convenience, that are well adapted to the +accomplishment of the several purposes they have in view. No people +can have a quicker sense of an injury done to them than the New +Zealanders, or be more ready to resent it; and yet they want one +characteristic of true bravery; for they will take an opportunity of +being insolent, when they think that there is no danger of their being +punished. From the number of their weapons, and their dexterity in +using them, it appears, that war is their principal profession. +Indeed, their public contentions are so frequent, or rather so +perpetual, that they must live under continual apprehensions of being +destroyed by each other. From their horrid custom of eating the flesh +of their enemies, not only without reluctance, but with peculiar +satisfaction, it would be natural to suppose that they must be +destitute of every humane feeling, even with regard to their own +party. This, however, is not the case; for they lament the loss of +their friends with a violence of expression which argues the most +tender remembrance of them. At a very early age the children are +initiated into all the practices, whether good or bad, of their +fathers; so that a boy or girl, when only nine or ten years old, can +perform the motions, and imitate the frightful gestures, by which the +more aged are accustomed to inspire their enemies with terror. They +can keep likewise the strictest time in their song; and it is with +some degree of melody that they sing the traditions of their +forefathers, their actions in war, and other subjects. The military +achievements of their ancestors, the New Zealanders celebrate with the +highest pleasure, and spend much of their time in diversions of this +sort, and in playing upon a musical instrument, which partakes of the +nature of a flute. With respect to their language, it is far from +being harsh or disagreeable, though the pronunciation of it is +frequently guttural; nor, if we may judge from the melody of some +kinds of their songs, is it destitute of those qualities, which fit it +to be associated with music. Of its identity with the languages of the +other islands throughout the South Sea, fresh proofs were exhibited +during the present voyage. + +At the request of Omai, Captain Cook consented to take with him two +youths from New Zealand. That they might not quit their native country +under any deluding ideas of visiting it again, the captain took care +to inform their parents, in the strongest terms, that they would never +return. This declaration seemed, however, to make no kind of +impression. The father of the youngest had resigned him with an +indifference, which he would scarcely have shewn at parting with his +dog, and even stripped the boy of the little clothing he possessed, +delivering him quite naked into the hands of our voyagers. This was +not the case with the mother of the other youth. She took her leave of +him with all the marks of tender affection that might be expected +between a parent and a child on such an occasion; but she soon resumed +her cheerfulness, and went away wholly unconcerned. + +On the 25th of the month, Captain Cook stood out of Queen Charlotte's +Sound, and by the 27th got clear of New Zealand. No sooner had the +ships lost sight of the land, than the two young adventurers from that +country, one of whom was nearly eighteen years of age, and the other +about ten, began deeply to repent of the step they had taken. It was +the experience of the sea-sickness, which gave this turn to their +reflections; and all the soothing encouragement the English could +think of, was but of a little avail. They wept, both in public and in +private, and made their lamentation in a kind of song, that seemed to +be expressive of the praises of their country and people, from which +they were to be separated for ever. In this disposition they continued +for many days: but as their sea-sickness wore off, and the tumult of +their minds subsided, the fits of lamentation became less and less +frequent, and at length entirely ceased. By degrees, their native +country and their friends were forgotten, and they appeared to be as +firmly attached to our navigators, as if they had been born in +England. + +In the prosecution of the voyage, Captain Cook met with unfavourable +winds; and it was not till the 29th of March that land was discovered. +It was found to be an inhabited island, the name of which, as was +learned from two of the natives, who came off in a canoe, is Mangeea. +Our commander examined the coast with his boats, and had a short +intercourse with some of the inhabitants. Not being able to find a +proper harbour for bringing the ships to an anchorage, he was obliged, +to leave the country unvisited, though it seemed capable of supplying +all the wants of our voyagers. The island of Mangeea is full five +leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height. It has, +upon the whole, a pleasing aspect, and might be made a beautiful spot +by cultivation. The inhabitants, who appeared to be both numerous and +well fed, seemed to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas in +the beauty of their persons; and the resemblance, as far as could be +judged in so short a compass of time, takes place, with respect to +their general disposition and character. + +From the coast of Mangeea our commander sailed in the afternoon of the +30th, and on the next day land was again seen, within four leagues of +which the ships arrived on the 1st of April. Our people could then +pronounce it to be an island, nearly of the same appearance and extent +with that which had so lately been left. Some of the natives speedily +put off in their canoes, and three of them were pursuaded to come on +board the Resolution; on which occasion, their whole behaviour marked +that they were quite at their ease, and felt no kind of apprehension +that they should be detained, or ill used. In a visit from several +others of the inhabitants, they manifested a dread of approaching near +the cows and horses: nor could they form the least conception of their +nature. But the sheep and goats did not, in their opinion, surpass the +limits of their ideas; for they gave our navigators to understand that +they knew them to be birds. As there is not the most distant +resemblance between a sheep or goat, and any winged animal, this may +be thought to be almost an incredible example of human ignorance. But +it should be remembered, that, excepting hogs, dogs, and birds, these +people were strangers to the existence of any other land animals. + +In a farther intercourse with the natives, who had brought a hog, +together with some plantains and cocoanuts, they demanded a dog from +our voyagers, and refused every thing besides which was offered in +exchange. One of the gentlemen on board happened to have a dog and a +bitch which were great nuisances in the ship; and these he might now +have disposed of in a manner that would have been of real future +utility to the island. But he had no such views in making them the +companions of his voyage. Omai, however, with a goodnature that +reflects honour upon him, parted with a favourite dog which he had +brought from England; and with this acquisition the people departed +highly satisfied. + +On the 3rd of April, Captain Cook dispatched Mr. Gore, with three +boats, to endeavour to get upon the island. Mr. Gore himself, Omai, +Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Burney were the only persons that landed. The +transactions of the day, of which Mr. Anderson, drew up an ingenious +and entertaining account, added to the stock of knowledge gained by +our navigators, but did not accomplish Captain Cook's principal +object. Nothing was procured by the gentlemen, from the island, that +supplied the wants of the ships. In this expedition, Omai displayed +that turn of exaggeration, with which travellers have so frequently +been charged. Being asked by the natives concerning the English, their +ships, their country, and the arms they made use of, his answers were +not a little marvellous. He told these people, that our country had +ships as large as their islands; on board which were instruments of +war (describing our guns) of such dimensions, that several persons +might sit within them. At the same time, he assured the inhabitants, +that one of these guns was sufficient to crush their whole island at a +single shot. Though he was obliged to acknowledge that the guns on +board the vessels upon their coast were but small, he contrived by an +explosion of gunpowder, to inspire them with a formidable idea of +their nature and effect. It is probable, that this representation of, +things contributed to the preservation of the gentlemen, in their +enterprise on shore; for a strong disposition to retain them had been +shewn by the natives. + +It seemed destined that this day should give Omai more occasions than +one of bearing a principal part in its transactions. The island, +though never visited by Europeans before, happened to have other +strangers residing in it; and it was entirely owing to Omai's having +attended on the expedition, that a circumstance so curious came to the +knowledge of the English. Scarcely had he been landed upon the beach, +when he found, among the crowd which had assembled there, three of his +own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. That, at the distance +of about two hundred leagues from those islands, an immense unknown +ocean intervening, with the wretched boats their inhabitants are known +to make use of, and fit only for a passage where sight of land is +scarcely ever lost, such a meeting, at such a place, so accidentally +visited, should occur, may well be regarded as one of those unexpected +situations with which the writers of feigned adventures love to +surprise their readers. When events of this kind really happen in +common life, they deserve to be recorded for their singularity. It may +easily be supposed with what mutual surprise and satisfaction this +interview of Omai with his countrymen was attended. Twelve years +before, about twenty persons in number, of both sexes, had embarked on +board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbouring island of +Ulietea. A violent storm having arisen, which drove them out of their +course, and their provisions being very scanty, they suffered +incredible hardships, and the greatest part of them perished by famine +and fatigue. Four men only survived when the boat overset, and then +the destruction of this small remnant appeared to be inevitable. +However, they kept hanging by the side of the vessel, which they +continued to do for some days, when they were providentially brought +within sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out +canoes and brought them on shore. The three men who now survived, +expressed a strong sense of the kind treatment they had received; and +so well satisfied were they with their present situation, that they +refused an offer which was made them of being conveyed to their native +country. A very important instruction may be derived from the +preceding narrative. It will serve to explain, better than a thousand +conjectures of speculative reasoners, how the detached parts of the +earth, and, in particular, how the islands of the South Sea, though +lying remote from any inhabited continent, or from each other, may +have originally been peopled. Similar adventures have occurred in the +history of navigation and shipwrecks. + +The island on which Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderson, Mr. Burney, and Omai, had +landed is called Wateeoo by the natives, and is a beautiful spot, +having a surface composed of hills and plains, which are covered with +a verdure rendered extremely pleasant by the diversity of its hues. +Its inhabitants are very numerous; and many of the young men were +perfect models in shape; besides which, they had complexions as +delicate as those of the women, and appeared to be equally amiable in +their dispositions. In their manners, their general habits of life, +and their religious ceremonies and opinions, these islanders have a +near resemblance to the people of Otaheite and its neighbouring isles; +and their language was well understood, both by Omai and the two New +Zealanders. + +The next place visited by Captain Cook was a small island, called +Wennooa-ette, or Otakootaia, to which Mr. Gore was sent, at the head +of a party who procured about a hundred cocoa-nuts for each ship, and +some grass, together with a quantity of the leaves and branches of +young trees, for the cattle. Though, at this time, no inhabitants were +found in Wennooa-ette, yet, as there remained indubitable marks of its +being, at least, occasionally frequented, Mr. Gore left a hatchet, and +several nails, to the full value of what had been taken away. + +On the 5th, our commander directed his course for Harvey's Island, +which was only at the distance of fifteen leagues, and where he hoped +to procure some refreshments. This island had been discovered by him, +in 1773, during his last voyage, when no traces were discerned of its +having any inhabitants. It was now experienced to be well peopled, and +by a race of men who appeared to differ much, both in person and +disposition, from the natives of Wateeoo. Their behaviour was +disorderly and clamorous; their colour was of a deeper cast; and +several of them had a fierce and rugged aspect. It was remarkable, +that not one of them had adopted the practice, so generally prevalent +among the people of the southern Ocean, of puncturing or +_tatooing_ their bodies. But notwithstanding this singularity, +the most unequivocal proofs were exhibited of their having the same +common origin; and their language, in particular, approached still +nearer to the dialect of Otaheite, than that of Wateeoo, or Mangea. No +anchorage for the ships being found in Harvey's island, Captain Cook +quitted it without delay. + +The captain being thus disappointed at all the islands he had met +with, since his leaving New Zealand, and his progress having +unavoidably been retarded by unfavourable winds, and other unforeseen +circumstances, it became impossible to think of doing any thing this +year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, from which he +was still at so great a distance, though the season for his operations +there was already begun. In this situation, it was absolutely +necessary, in the first place, to pursue such measures as were most +likely to preserve the cattle that were on board. A still more capital +object was to save the stores and provisions of the ships, that he +might the better be enabled to prosecute his discoveries to the north, +which could not now be commenced till a year later than was originally +intended. If he had been so fortunate as to have procured a supply of +water, and of grass, at any of the islands he had lately visited, it +was his purpose to have stood back to the south, till he had met with +a westerly wind. But the certain consequence of doing this, without +such a supply, would have been the loss of all the cattle; while at +the same time, not a single advantage would have been gained, with +regard to the grand ends of the voyage. He determined, therefore, to +beat away for the Friendly Islands, where he was sure of being +abundantly provided. + +In pursuing his course, agreeably to this resolution, our commander, +on the 14th, reached Palmerston Island, where, and at a neighbouring +islet, both of which were uninhabited, some little relief was +obtained. The boats soon procured a load of scurvy-grass and young +cocoa-nut trees, which was a feast for the cattle; and the same feast, +with the addition of palm cabbage, and the tender branches of the +_wharra_ tree, was continued for several days. On the 16th, Omai, +being on shore with the captain, caught with a scoop-net, in a very +short time, as much fish as served the whole party for dinner, besides +sending a quantity to both the ships. Birds, too, and particularly +men-of-war and tropic birds, were plentifully obtained; so that our +navigators had sumptuous entertainment. Omai acted as cook upon the +occasion. The fish and the birds he dressed with heated stones, after +the manner of his country; and performed the operation with a +dexterity and good humour which were greatly to his credit. From the +islet before mentioned, twelve hundred cocoa-nuts were procured, which +being equally divided among the crew, were of great use to them, both +on account of the juice and the kernel. There is no water in the +islets which are comprehended under the name of Palmerston Island. If +that article could be obtained, and good anchorage could be +accomplished within the reef, Captain Cook would prefer this island to +any of the uninhabited ones, for the mere purpose of refreshment. The +quantity of fish that might be caught would be sufficient; and a +ship's company could roam about unmolested by the petulance of the +inhabitants. + +Different opinions have been entertained concerning the formation of +the low islands in the great ocean. From the observations which our +commander now made, he was convinced, that such islands are formed +from shoals, or coral banks, and, consequently, that they are always +increasing. + +After leaving Palmerston's Island, Captain Cook steered to the west, +with a view of making the best of his way to Annamooka. During his +course, the showers were so copious, that our navigators saved a +considerable quantity of water. Finding that a greater supply could be +obtained by the rain in one hour, than could be gotten by distillation +in a month, the captain laid aside the still as a thing which was +attended with more trouble than profit. At this time, the united heat +and moisture of the weather, in addition to the impossibility of +keeping the ships dry, threatened to be noxious to the health of our +people. It was however, remarkable, that neither the constant use of +salt food, nor the vicissitudes of climate, were productive of any +evil effects. Though the only material refreshment our voyagers had +received, since their leaving the Cape of Good Hope, was that which +they had procured at New Zealand, there was not, as yet, a single sick +person on board. This happy situation of things was undoubtedly owing +to the unremitting attention of our commander, in seeing that no +circumstance was neglected, which could contribute to the preservation +of the health of his company. + +On the 28th of April, Captain Cook touched at the Island of Komango; +and, on the 1st of May, he arrived at Annamooka. The station he took +was the very same which he had occupied when he visited the country +three years before; and it was probably almost in the same place where +Tasman, the first discoverer of this and some of the neighbouring +islands, anchored in 1643. A friendly intercourse was immediately +opened with the natives, and every thing was settled to the captain's +satisfaction. He received the greatest civilities from Toobou, the +chief of Annamooka; and Taipa, a chief from the Island of Komango, +attached himself to the English in so extraordinary a manner, that, in +order to be near them in the night, as well as in the day, he had a +house brought on men's shoulders, a full quarter of a mile, and placed +close to the shed, which was occupied by our party on shore. On the +6th our commander was visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose +name was Feenou, and who was falsely represented, by Taipa, to be the +king of all the Friendly Isles. The only interruption to the harmony +which subsisted between our people and the natives of Annamooka arose +from the thievish disposition of many of the inhabitants. They +afforded frequent opportunities of remarking, how expert they were in +the business of stealing. Even some of the chiefs did not think the +profession unbecoming their dignity. One of them was detected in +carrying a bolt out of the ship, concealed under his clothes; for +which Captain Cook sentenced him to have a dozen lashes, and kept him +confined till he had paid a hog for his liberty. After this act of +justice, our navigators were no longer troubled with thieves of rank: +but their servants, or slaves, were still employed in the dirty work; +and upon them a flogging seemed to make no greater impression that it +would have done upon the mainmast. When any of them happened to be +caught in the act, so far were their masters from interceding in their +favour, that they often advised our gentlemen to kill them. This, +however, being a punishment too severe to be inflicted, they generally +escaped without being punished at all; for of the shame, as well as of +the pain of corporal chastisement, they appeared to be equally +insensible. At length, Captain Clerke invented a mode of treatment, +which was thought to be productive of some good effect. He put the +thieves into the hands of the barber, and completely shaved their +heads. In consequence of this operation, they became objects of +ridicule to their own countrymen; and our people, by keeping them at a +distance, were enabled to deprive them of future opportunities for a +repetition of their rogueries. + +The island of Annamooka being exhausted of its articles of food, +Captain Cook proposed, on the 11th, to proceed directly for +Tongataboo. From this resolution, however, he was diverted, at the +instance of Feenou, who warmly recommended in preference to it, an +island, or rather a group of islands, called Hapaee, lying to the +north-east. There, he assured our voyagers, they could be plentifully +supplied with every refreshment, in the easiest manner; and he +enforced his advice by engaging to attend them thither in person. +Accordingly, Hapaee was made choice of for the next station; and the +examination of it became an object with the captain, as it had never +been visited by any European ships. + +On the 17th, our commander arrived at Hapaee, where he met with a most +friendly reception from the inhabitants, and from Earoupa, the chief +of the island. During the whole stay of our navigators, the time was +spent in a reciprocation of presents, civilities, and solemnities. On +the part of the natives were displayed single combats with clubs, +wrestling and boxing-matches, female combatants, dances performed by +men, and night entertainments of singing and dancing. The English, on +the other hand, gave pleasure to the Indians by exercising the +marines, and excited their astonishment by the exhibition of +fireworks. After curiosity had, on both sides, been sufficiently +gratified, Captain Cook applied himself to the examination of Hapaee, +Lefooga, and other neighbouring islands. As the ships were returning, +on the 31st, from these islands to Annamooka, the Resolution was very +near running full upon a low sandy isle, called Pootoo Pootooa, +surrounded with breakers. It fortunately happened, that the men had +just been ordered upon deck to put the vessel about, and were most of +them at their stations; so that the necessary movements were executed +not only with judgment, but also with alertness. This alone saved the +ship and her company from destruction. 'Such hazardous situations,' +says the captain, 'are the unavoidable companions of the man who goes +upon a voyage of discovery.' + +During our commander's expedition to Hapaee, he was introduced to +Poulaho, the real king of the Friendly Isles; in whose presence it +instantly appeared how groundless had been Feenou's pretensions to +that character. Feenou, however, was a chief of great note and +influence. By Poulaho Captain Cook was invited to pass over to +Tongataboo, which request he complied with after he had touched, for +two or three days, at Annamooka. In the passage, the Resolution was +insensibly drawn upon a large flat, on which lay innumerable coral +rocks of different depths below the surface of the water. +Notwithstanding all the care and attention of our people to keep her +clear of them, they could not prevent her from striking on one of +these rocks. The same event happened to the Discovery; but fortunately +neither of the ships stuck fast or received any damage. + +On the 10th of June, Captain Cook arrived at Tongataboo, where the +king was waiting for him upon the beach, and immediately conducted him +to a small, but neat house, which, he was told, was at his service, +during his stay in the island. The house was situated a little within +the skirts of the woods, and had a fine large area before it; so that +a more agreeable spot could not have been provided. Our commander's +arrival at Tongataboo was followed by a succession of entertainments +similar to those which had occurred at Hapaee, though somewhat +diversified in circumstances, and exhibited with additional splendour. +The pleasure, however, of the visit was occasionally interrupted by +the thieveries of many of the inhabitants. Nothing could prevent their +plundering our voyagers, in every quarter; and they did it in the most +daring and insolent manner. There was scarcely any thing which they +did not attempt to steal; and yet, as the crowd was always great, the +captain would not permit the sentinels to fire, lest the innocent +should suffer with the guilty. + +Captain Cook, on the 19th, made a distribution of the animals which he +had selected as presents for the principal men of the island. To +Poulaho, the king, he gave a young English bull and cow, together with +three goats; to Mareewagee, a chief of consequence, a Cape ram and two +ewes; and to Feenou a horse and a mare. He likewise left in the island +a young boar and three young sows of the English breed; and two +rabbits, a buck and a doe. Omai, at the same time, was instructed to +represent the importance of these animals, and to explain, as far as +he was capable of doing it, the manner in which they should be +preserved and treated. Even the generosity of the captain was not +without its inconveniences. It soon appeared that some were +dissatisfied with the allotment of the animals; for, next morning, two +kids and two Turkey-cocks were missing. As our commander could not +suppose, that this was an accidental loss, he determined to have them +again. The first step he took was to seize on three canoes that +happened to be alongside the ships; after which he went on shore, and +having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, he +immediately put a guard over them, and gave them to understand, that +they must remain under restraint, till not only the kid and the +turkeys, but the rest of the things which, at different times, had +been stolen from our voyagers, should be restored. This bold step of +Captain Cook was attended with a very good effect. Some of the +articles which had been lost were instantly brought back, and such +good assurances were given with regard to the remainder, that, in the +afternoon, the chiefs were released. It was a happy circumstance, with +respect to this transaction, that it did not abate the future +confidence of Poulaho and his friends in the captain's kind and +generous treatment. + +On the 5th of July was an eclipse of the sun, which, however, in +consequence of unfavourable weather, was very imperfectly observed. +Happily, the disappointment was of little consequence, as the +longitude was more than sufficiently determined by lunar observations. + +Captain Cook sailed from Tongataboo on the 10th, and, two days after, +came to anchor at the island of Middleburg, or Eooa, as it is called +by the inhabitants. Here he was immediately visited by Taoofa, the +chief, with whom he had formerly been acquainted. The intercourse now +renewed was friendly in the highest degree, both with Taoofa and the +rest of the natives; and our commander endeavoured to meliorate their +condition by planting a pineapple and sowing the seeds of melons, and +other vegetables, in the chief's plantation. To this he was encouraged +by a proof that his past endeavours had not been wholly unsuccessful. +He had, one day, served up to him at his dinner, a dish of turnips, +being the produce of the seeds which he had left at Eooa in his last +voyage. + +The stay which Captain Cook made at the Friendly Islands was between +two and three months; during which time, some accidental difference +excepted, there subsisted the utmost cordiality between the English +and the natives. These differences were never attended with any fatal +consequences; which happy circumstance was principally owing to the +unremitting attention of the captain, who directed all his measures +with a view to the prevention of such quarrels, as would be injurious +either to the inhabitants or to his own people. So long as our +navigators staid at the islands, they expended very little of their +sea provisions, subsisting, in general, upon the produce of the +country, and carrying away with them a quantity of refreshments, +sufficient to last till their arrival at another station, where they +could depend upon a fresh supply. It was a singular pleasure to our +commander, that he possessed an opportunity of adding to the happiness +of these good Indians, by the useful animals which he left among them. +Upon the whole, the advantages of having landed at the Friendly +Islands were very great; and Captain Cook reflected upon it with +peculiar satisfaction, that these advantages were obtained without +retarding, for a single moment, the prosecution of the great object of +his voyage; the season for proceeding to the north having been +previously lost. + +Besides the immediate benefits which both the natives and the English +derived from their mutual intercourse on the present occasion, such a +large addition was now made to the geographical knowledge of this part +of the Pacific Ocean, as may render no small service to future +navigators. Under the denomination of the Friendly Islands must be +included not only the group of Hapaee, but all those islands that have +been discovered nearly under the same meridian, to the north, as well +as some others, which, though they have never hitherto been seen by +any European voyagers, are under the dominion of Tongataboo. From the +information which our commander received, it appears, that this +archipelago is very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islands +were reckoned up by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to +ascertain their number; and Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, +procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or +hilly, and thirty-five of them large. Concerning the size of the +thirty-two which were unexplored, it can only be mentioned, that they +must be larger than Annamooka, which was ranked amongst the smaller +isles. Several, indeed, of those which belong to this latter +denomination, are mere spots, without inhabitants. Captain Cook had +not the least doubt but that Prince William's Islands, discovered and +so named by Tasman, were comprehended in the list furnished by the +natives. He had also good authority for believing that Keppel's and +Boscawen's Islands, two of Captain Wallis's discoveries to 1765, were +included in the same list; and that they were under the sovereign of +Tongataboo, which is the grand seat of government. It must be left to +future navigators to extend the geography of this part of the South +Pacific Ocean, by ascertaining the exact situation and size of nearly +a hundred islands, in the neighbourhood, which our commander had no +opportunity of exploring. + +During the present visit to the Friendly Islands, large additions were +made to the knowledge which was obtained, in the last voyage, of the +natural history and productions of the country, and the manners and +customs of its inhabitants. Though it does not fall within the plan of +this narrative to enter into a detail of the particulars recorded, I +cannot help taking notice of the explanation which Captain Cook has +given of the thievish disposition of the natives. It is an explanation +which reflects honour upon his sagacity, humanity, and candour and +therefore I shall relate it in his own words: 'The only defect,' says +he, 'sullying their character, that we know of, is a propensity to +thieving; to which we found those of all ages, and both sexes, +addicted, and to an uncommon degree. It should, however, be +considered, that this exceptionable part of their conduct seemed to +exist merely with respect to us; for, in their general intercourse +with one another, I had reason to be of opinion, that thefts do not +happen more frequently (perhaps less so) than in other countries, the +dishonest practices of whose worthless individuals are not supposed to +authorize any indiscriminate censure on the whole body of the people. +Great allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor natives +of the Pacific Ocean, whose minds were overpowered with the glare of +objects, equally new to them as they were captivating. Stealing, among +the civilized nations of the world, may well be considered as denoting +a character deeply stained with moral turpitude: with avarice, +unrestrained by the known rules of right; and with profligacy, +producing extreme indigence, and neglecting the means of relieving it. +But at the Friendly and other islands which we visited, the thefts, so +frequently committed by the natives, of what we had brought along with +us, may be fairly traced to less culpable motives. They seemed to +arise solely from an intense curiosity or desire to possess something +which they had not been accustomed to before, and belonging to a sort +of people so different from themselves. And, perhaps, if it were +possible, that a set of beings, seemingly, as superior in our +judgment, as we are in theirs, should appear amongst us, it might be +doubted, whether our natural regard to justice would be able to +restrain many from falling into the same error. That I have assigned +the true motive for their propensity to this practice, appears from +their stealing every thing indiscriminately at first sight, before +they could have the least conception of converting their prize to any +one useful purpose. But, I believe, with us, no person would forfeit +his reputation, or expose himself to punishment, without knowing, +beforehand, how to employ the stolen goods. Upon the whole, the +pilfering disposition of these islanders, though certainly +disagreeable and troublesome to strangers, was the means of affording +us some information as to the quickness of their intellects.' + +With respect to the religion of these Indians, Mr. Anderson maintains, +that they have very proper sentiments concerning the immateriality and +immortality of the soul; and thinks himself sufficiently authorized to +assert, that they do not worship any thing which is the work of their +own hands, or any visible part of the creation. The language of the +Friendly Islands has the greatest imaginable conformity with that of +New Zealand, of Wateeoo, and Mangeea. Several hundreds of the words of +it were collected by Mr. Anderson; and amongst these, are terms that +express numbers reaching to a hundred thousand. Beyond this limit they +never went, and probably were not able to go farther; for it was +observed, that when they had gotten thus far, they commonly used a +word which expresses an indefinite number. + +On the 17th of July, our commander took his final leave of the +Friendly Islands, and resumed his voyage. An eclipse was observed in +the night between the 20th and the 21st; and on the 8th of August land +was discovered. Some of the inhabitants, who came off in canoes, +seemed earnestly to invite our people to go on shore; but Captain Cook +did not think proper to run the risk of losing the advantage of a fair +wind, for the sake of examining an island which appeared to be of +little consequence. Its name, as was learned from the natives, who +spake the Otaheite language, is Toobonai. + +Pursuing his course, the captain reached Otaheite on the 12th, and +steered for Oheitepeha Bay, with an intention to anchor there, in +order to draw what refreshments he could from the south-east part of +the island, before he went down to Matavai. Omai's first reception +amongst his countrymen was not entirely of a flattering nature. Though +several persons came on board who knew him, and one of them was his +brother-in-law, there was nothing remarkably tender or striking in +their meeting. An interview which Omai had, on the 13th, with his +sister, was agreeable to the feelings of nature; for their meeting was +marked with expressions of tender affection, more easy to be conceived +than described. In a visit, likewise, which he received from an aunt, +the old lady threw herself at his feet, and plentifully bedewed them +with tears of joy. + +Captain Cook was informed by the natives, that, since he was last at +the island, in 1774, two ships had been twice in Oheitepeha Bay, and +had left animals in the country. These, on farther inquiry, were found +to be hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and a ram. That the vessels which +had visited Otaheite were Spanish, was plain from an inscription that +was cut upon a wooden cross, standing at some distance from the front +of a house which had been occupied by the strangers. On the transverse +part of the cross was inscribed, + + _Christus vincit._ + +And on the perpendicular part, + + _Carolus III. imperat. 1774._ + +Our commander took this occasion to preserve the memory of the prior +visits of the English, by inscribing, on the other side of the post, + + _Georgius tertius Rex. + Annis 1767, + 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777._ + +Whatever might be the intentions of the Spaniards in their visit to +the island, it ought to be remembered to their honour, that they +behaved so well to the inhabitants, as always to be spoken of in the +strongest expressions of esteem and veneration. + +Captain Cook had at this time an important affair to settle. As he +knew that he could now be furnished with a plentiful supply of +cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an excellent and wholesome +beverage, he was desirous of prevailing upon his people to consent to +their being abridged, during their stay at Otaheite and the +neighbouring islands, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix with +water. But as this stoppage of a favourite article, without assigning +some reason for it, might occasion a general murmur, he thought it +most prudent to assemble the ship's company, and to make known to them +the design of the voyage, and the extent of the future operations. To +animate them in undertaking with cheerfulness and perseverance what +lay before them he took notice of the rewards offered by parliament, +to such of his majesty's subjects as should first discover a +communication between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, in any +direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and also to such as +should first penetrate beyond the eighty-ninth degree of northern +latitude. The captain made no doubt, he told them, that he should find +them willing to co-operate with him in attempting as far as might be +possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that, +to give the best chance of success, it would be necessary to observe +the utmost economy in the expenditure of the stores and provisions, +particularly the latter, as there was no probability of getting a +supply any where, after leaving these islands. He strengthened his +argument by reminding them, that, in consequence of the opportunity's +having been lost of getting to the north this summer, the voyage must +last at least a year longer than had originally been supposed. He +entreated them to consider the various obstructions and difficulties +they might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships they would +endure, if it should be found necessary to put them to short +allowance, of any species of provisions, in a cold climate. For these +very substantial reasons, he submitted to them, whether it would not +be better to be prudent in time, and, rather than to incur the hazard +of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would most be wanted, +to consent to give up their grog now, when so excellent a liquor as +that of cocoa-nuts could be substituted in its place. In conclusion, +our commander left the determination of the matter entirely to their +own choice. + +This speech which certainly partook much of the nature of true +eloquence, if a discourse admirably calculated for persuasion be +entitled to that character, produced its full effect on the generous +minds of English seamen. Captain Cook had the satisfaction of finding +that his proposal did not remain a single moment under consideration; +being unanimously and immediately approved of, without the least +objection. By our commander's order, Captain Clerke made the same +proposal to his people, to which they, likewise, agreed. Accordingly, +grog was no longer served, excepting on Saturday nights; when the +companies of both ships had a full allowance of it, that they might +drink the healths of their friends in England. + +On the 24th, Captain Cook quitted the south-east part of Otaheite, and +resumed his old station in Matavia Bay. Immediately upon his arrival, +he was visited by Otoo, the king of the whole island, and their former +friendship was renewed; a friendship which was continued without +interruption, and cemented by a perpetual succession of civilities, +good offices, and entertainments. One of our commander's first objects +was to dispose of all the European animals which were in the ships. +Accordingly, he conveyed to Oparre, Otoo's place of residence, a +peacock and hen; a turkey cock and hen, one gander and three geese, a +drake and four ducks. The geese and ducks began to breed before our +navigators left their present station. There were already, at Otoo's, +several goats, and the Spanish bull; which was one of the finest +animals of the kind that was ever seen. To the bull Captain Cook sent +the three cows he had on board, together with a bull of his own; to +all which were added the horse and mare, and the sheep that had still +remained in the vessels. + +The captain found himself lightened of a very heavy burden, in having +disposed of these passengers. It is not easy to conceive the trouble +and vexation, which had attended the conveyance of this living cargo, +through such various hazards, and to so immense a distance. But the +satisfaction which our commander felt, in having been so fortunate as +to fulfil his majesty's humane designs, in sending such valuable +animals, to supply the wants of the two worthy nations, afforded him +an ample recompense for the many anxious hours he had passed, before +this subordinate object of his voyage could be carried into execution. + +At this time a war was on the point of breaking out, between the +inhabitants of Eimeo and those of Otaheite; and by the latter Captain +Cook was requested to take a part in their favour. With this request, +however, though enforced by frequent and urgent solicitations, the +captain, according to his usual wisdom, refused to comply. He alleged, +that, as he was not thoroughly acquainted with the dispute, and the +people of Eimeo had never offended him, he could not think himself at +liberty to engage in hostilities against them. With these reasons Otoo +and most of the chiefs appeared to be satisfied; but one of them, +Towha, was so highly displeased, that our commander never afterward +recovered his friendship. + +Upon the present occasion, Captain Cook had full and undeniable proof, +that the offering of human sacrifices forms a part of the religious +institutions of Otaheite. Indeed, he was a witness to a solemnity of +this kind; the process of which he has particularly described, and has +related it with the just sentiments of indignation and abhorrence. The +unhappy victim, who was now offered to the object of worship, seemed +to be a middle-aged man, and was said to be one of the lowest class of +the people. But the captain could not learn, after all his inquiries, +whether the wretch had been fixed upon on account of his having +committed any crime which was supposed to be deserving of death. It is +certain, that a choice is generally, made either of such guilty +persons for the sacrifices, or of common low fellows, who stroll about +from place to place, without any visible methods of obtaining an +honest subsistence. Those who are devoted to suffer, are never +apprised of their fate, till the blow is given, that puts an end to +their being. Whenever, upon any particular emergency, one of the great +chiefs considers a human sacrifice to be necessary, he pitches upon +the victim, and then orders him to be suddenly fallen upon and killed, +either with clubs or stones. Although it should be supposed, that no +more than one person is ever devoted to destruction on any single +occasion, at Otaheite, it will still be found that these occurrences +are so frequent, as to cause a shocking waste of the human race; for +our commander counted no less than forty-nine skulls of former +victims, lying before the Morai, where he had seen another added to +the number. It was apparent, from the freshness of these skulls, that +no great length of time had elapsed since the wretches to whom they +belonged had been offered upon the altar of blood. + +There is reason to fear, that this custom is as extensive as it is +horrid. It is highly probable that it prevails throughout the widely +diffused islands of the Pacific Ocean; and Captain Cook had particular +evidence of its subsisting at the Friendly Islands. To what an extent +the practice of human sacrifices was carried in the ancient world, is +not unknown to the learned. Scarcely any nation was free from it in a +certain state of society; and, as religious reformation is one of the +last efforts of the human mind, the practice may be continued, even +when the manners are otherwise far removed from savage life. It may +have been a long time before civilization has made such a progress as +to deprive superstition of its cruelty, and to divert it from +barbarous rites to ceremonies which, though foolish enough, are +comparatively mild, gentle and innocent. + +On the 5th of September, an accident happened, which, though slight in +itself, was of some consequence from the situation of things. A young +ram of the Cape breed, which had been lambed and brought up with great +care on board the ship, as killed by a dog. Desirous as Captain Cook +was of propagating so useful a race among the Society Islands, the +loss of a ram was a serious misfortune. It was the only one he had of +that breed; and of the English breed a single ram was all that +remained. + +Captain Cook and Captain Clerke, on the 14th, mounted on horseback, +and took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the great surprise of a +large number of the natives, who attended upon the occasion, and gazed +upon the gentlemen with as much astonishment as if they had been +Centaurs. What the two captains had begun was afterward repeated every +day, by one and another of our people; notwithstanding which, the +curiosity of the Otaheitans still continued unabated. They were +exceedingly delighted with these animals, after they had seen the use +which was made of them. Not all the novelties put together, which +European visitors had carried amongst the inhabitants, inspired them +with so high an idea of the greatness of distant nations. + +Though Captain Cook would not take a part in the quarrels between the +islands, he was ready to protect his particular friends, when in +danger of being injured. Towha, who commanded the expedition against +Eimeo, had been obliged to submit to a disgraceful accommodation. +Being full of resentment, on account of his not having been properly +supported, he was said to have threatened, that, as soon as the +captain should leave the island, he would join his forces to those of +Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo, at Matavai or Oparre. This induced our +commander to declare, in the most public manner, that he was +determined to espouse the interest of his friend, against any such +combination; and that, whoever presumed to assault him, should feel +the weight of his heavy displeasure, when he returned again to +Otaheite. Captain Cook's declaration had probably the desired effect; +for, if Towha had formed hostile intentions, no more was heard of the +matter. + +The manner in which our commander was freed from a rheumatic +complaint, that consisted of a pain extending from the hip to the +foot, deserves to be recorded. Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and +eight other women went on board, for the express purpose of +undertaking the cure of his disorder. He accepted of their friendly +offer, had a bed spread for them on the cabin floor, and submitted +himself to their directions. Being desired to lay himself down amongst +them, then, as many of them as could get round him began to squeeze +him with both hands, from head to foot, but more particularly in the +part where the pain was lodged till they made his bones crack, and his +flesh became a perfect mummy. After undergoing this discipline about a +quarter of an hour, he was glad to be released from the women. The +operation, however gave him immediate relief; so that he was +encouraged to submit to another rubbing down before he went to bed; +the consequence of which was, that he was tolerably easy all the +succeeding night. His female physicians repeated their prescription +the next morning, and again in the evening; after which his pains were +entirely removed, and the cure was perfected. This operation, which is +called _romee_, is universally practised among these islanders; +being sometimes, performed by the men, but more generally by the +women. + +Captain Cook, who now had come to the resolution of departing soon +from Otaheite, accompanied, on the 27th, Otoo to Oparre, and examined +the cattle and poultry, which he had consigned to his friend's care at +that place. Everything was in a promising way, and properly attended. +The captain procured from Otoo four goats; two of which he designed to +leave at Ulietea, where none had as yet been introduced; and the other +two he proposed to reserve for the use of any islands he might chance +to meet with in his passage to the north. On the next day, Oleo came +on board, and informed our commander that he had gotten a canoe, which +he desired him to carry home, as a present to the Earee rahie no +Pretane. This, he said, was the only thing he could send which was +worthy of his majesty's, acceptance. Captain Cook was not a little +pleased with Otoo, for this mark of his gratitude; and the more, as +the thought was entirely his own. Not one of our people had given him +the least hint concerning it; and it shewed, that he was fully +sensible to whom he stood indebted for the most valueable presents +that he had received. As the canoe was too large to be taken on board, +the captain could only thank him for his good intentions; but it would +have given him a much greater satisfaction, if his present could have +been accepted. + +During this visit of our voyagers to Otaheite, such a cordial +friendship and confidence subsisted between them and the natives, as +never once to be interrupted by any untoward accident. Our commander +had made the chiefs fully sensible, that it was their interest to +treat with him on fair and equitable terms, and to keep their people +from plundering or stealing. So great was Otoo's attachment to the +English, that he seemed pleased with the idea of their having a +permanent settlement at Matavai; not considering, that from that time +he would be deprived of his kingdom, and the inhabitants of their +liberties. Captain Cook had too much gratitude and regard for these +islanders, to wish that such an event should ever take place. Though +our occasional visits may, in some respects, have been of advantage to +the natives, he was afraid that a durable establishment among them, +conducted as most European establishments amongst Indian nations have +unfortunately been, would give them just cause to lament that they had +been discovered by our navigators. It is not, indeed, likely that a +measure of this kind should at any time seriously be adopted, because +it cannot serve either the purposes of public ambition, or private +avarice; and, without such inducements, the captain has ventured to +pronounce that it will never be undertaken. + +From Otaheite our voyagers sailed, on the 30th, to Eimeo, where they +came to an anchor on the same day. At this island the transactions +which happened were, for the most part, very unpleasant. A goat, which +was stolen, was recovered without any extraordinary difficulty, and +one of the thieves was, at the same time, surrendered; being the first +instance of the kind that our commander had met with in his connexions +with the Society Islands. The stealing of another goat was attended +with an uncommon degree of perplexity and trouble. As the recovery of +it was a matter of no small importance, Captain Cook was determined to +effect this at any rate; and accordingly he made an expedition across +the island, in the course of which he set fire to six or eight houses, +and burned a number of war canoes. At last, in consequence of a +peremptory message to Maheine, the chief of Eimeo, that not a single +canoe should be left in the country, or an end be put to the contest, +unless the animal in his possession should be restored, the goat was +brought back. This quarrel was as much regretted on the part of the +captain, as it could be on that of the natives. It grieved him to +reflect, that, after refusing the pressing solicitations of his +friends at Otaheite to favour their invasion of this island, he should +find himself so speedily reduced to the necessity of engaging, in +hostilities against its inhabitants; and in such hostilities as, +perhaps, had been more injurious to them than Towha's expedition. + +On the 11th of October, the ships departed from Eimeo, and the next +day arrived at Owharre harbour, on the west side of Huaheine. The +grand business of our commander at this island was the settlement of +Omai. In order to obtain the consent of the chiefs of the island, the +affair was conducted with great solemnity. Omai dressed himself very +properly on the occasion; brought with him a suitable assortment of +presents; went through a variety of religious ceremonies; and made a +speech, the topics of which had been dictated to him by our commander. +The result of the negotiation was, that a spot of ground was assigned +him, the extent of which, along the shore of the harbour was about two +hundred yards; and its depth to the foot of the hill somewhat more. A +proportionable part of the hill was included in the grant. This +business having been adjusted in a satisfactory manner, the carpenters +of both ships were employed in building a small house for Omai, in +which he might secure his European commodities. At the same time, some +of the English made a garden for his use, in which they planted +shaddocks, vines, pineapples, melons, and the seeds of several other +vegetable articles. All of these Captain Cook bad the satisfaction of +seeing in a flourishing state before he left the island. + +At Huaheine, Omai found a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law, by +whom he was received with great regard and tenderness. But though +these people were faithful and affectionate in their attachment to +him, the captain discovered, with concern, that they were of too +little consequence in the island to be capable of rendering him any +positive service. They had not either authority or influence to +protect his person or property; and, in such a situation, there was +reason to apprehend, that he might be in danger of being stripped of +all his possessions, as soon as he should cease to be supported by the +power of the English. To prevent this evil, if possible, our commander +advised him to conciliate the favour and engage the patronage and +protection of two or three of the principal chiefs, by a proper +distribution of some of his moveables; with which advice he prudently +complied. Captain Cook, however, did not entirely trust to the +operations of gratitude, but had recourse to the more forcible motive +of intimidation. With this view, he took every opportunity of +signifying to the inhabitants, that it was his intention to return to +the island again, after being absent the usual time; and that, if he +did not find Omai in the same state of security in which he left him, +all those whom he should then discover to have been his enemies should +feel the weight of his resentment. As the natives had now formed an +opinion that their country would be visited by the ships of England at +stated periods, there was ground to hope, that this threatening +declaration would produce no inconsiderable effect. + +When Omai's house was nearly finished, and many of his moveables were +carried ashore, a box of toys excited the admiration of the multitude +in a much higher degree than articles of a more useful nature. With +regard to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking mugs, glasses, +and the whole train of domestic accommodations, which in our +estimation are so necessary and important, scarcely any one of his +countrymen would condescend to look upon them. Omai himself, being +sensible that these pieces of English furniture would be of no great +consequence in his present situation, wisely sold a number of them, +among the people of the ships, for hatchets, and other iron tools, +which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and would +give him a more distinguished superiority over those with whom he was +to pass the remainder of his days. + +Omai's family, when he settled at Huaheine, consisted of eight or ten +persons, if that can be called a family to which a single female did +not as yet belong, nor was likely to belong, unless its master should +become less volatile. There was nothing in his present temper which +seemed likely to dispose him to look out for a wife; and, perhaps, it +is to be apprehended, that his residence in England had not +contributed to improve his taste for the sober felicity of a domestic +union with some woman of his own country. + +The European weapons of Omai consisted of a musket, bayonet, and +carteuch box; a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three +swords or cutlasses. With the possession of these warlike implements, +he was highly delighted; and it was only to gratify his eager desire +for them that Captain Cook was induced to make him such presents. The +captain would otherwise have thought it happier for him to be without +fire-arms, or any European weapons, lest an imprudent use of them (and +prudence was not his most distinguished talent) should rather increase +his dangers than establish his superiority. Though it was no small +satisfaction to our commander to reflect, that he had brought Omai +safe back to the very spot from which he had been taken, this +satisfaction was, nevertheless, somewhat diminished by the +consideration, that his situation might now be less desirable than it +was before his connexion with the English. It was to be feared, that +the advantages which he had derived from his visit to England would +place him in a more hazardous state, with respect to his personal +safety. + +Whatever faults belonged to Omai's character, they were overbalanced +by his good nature and his gratitude. He had a tolerable share of +understanding, but it was not accompanied with application and +perseverance; so that his knowledge of things was very general, and in +most instances imperfect: nor was he a man of much observation. He +would not, therefore, be able to introduce many of the arts and +customs of England among his countrymen, or greatly to improve those +to which they have long been habituated. Captain Cook, however, was +confident, that he would endeavour to bring to perfection the fruits +and vegetables which had been planted in his garden. This of itself +would be no small acquisition to the natives. But the greatest benefit +which these islands are likely to receive from Omai's travels, will be +in the animals that are left upon them; and which, had it not been for +his coming to England, they might probably never have obtained. When +these multiply, of which Captain Cook thought there was little reason +to doubt, Otaheite and the Society Islands will equal, if not exceed, +any country in the known world, for plenty of provisions. + +Before our commander sailed from Huaheine, he had the following +inscription cut on the outside of Omai's house: + + _Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777. + { Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. + Naves { + { Discovery, Car. Clerk, Pr._ + +On the same day, Omai took his final leave of our navigators, in doing +which, he bade farewell to all the officers in a very affectionate +manner. He sustained himself with a manly resolution, till he came to +Captain Cook, when his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed; and +he continued to weep all the time that the boat was conveying him to +shore. Not again to resume the subject I shall here mention, that when +the captain was at Ulietea, a fortnight after this event, Omai sent +two men with the satisfactory intelligence, that he remained +undisturbed by the people of Huaheine, and that every thing succeeded +well with him, excepting in the loss of his goat, which had died in +kidding. This intelligence was accompanied with a request, that +another goat might be given him, together with two axes. Our +commander, esteeming himself happy in having an additional opportunity +of serving him, dispatched the messengers back with the axes and a +couple of kids, male and female, which were spared for him out of the +Discovery. + +The fate of the two youths, who had been brought from New Zealand, +must not be forgotten. As they were extremely desirous of continuing +with our people, Captain Cook would have carried them to England with +him, if there had appeared the most distant probability of their ever +being restored to their own country. Tiarooa, the eldest of them, was +a very well disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and a +capacity of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be fully convinced +of the inferiority of New Zealand to these islands, and resigned +himself, though not without some degree of reluctance, to end his +days, in ease and plenty, in Huaheine. The other had formed so strong +an attachment to our navigators, that it was necessary to take him out +of the ship, and carry him ashore by force. This necessity was the +more painful as he was a witty, smart boy: and, on that account, a +great favourite on board. Both these youths became a part of Omai's +family. + +Whilst our voyagers were at Huaheine, the atrocious conduct of one +particular thief occasioned so much trouble, that the captain punished +him more severely than he had ever done any culprit before. Besides +having his head and beard shaved, he ordered both his ears to be cut +off, and then dismissed him. It can scarcely be reflected upon without +regret, that our commander should have been compelled to such an act +of severity. + +On the 3rd of November, the ships came to an anchor in the harbour of +Ohamaneno, in the island of Ulietea. The observatories being set up on +the 6th, and the necessary instruments having been carried on shore, +the two following days were employed in making astronomical +observations. In the night between the 12th and 13th, John Harrison, a +marine, who was sentinel at the observatory, deserted, taking with him +his arms and accoutrements. Captain Cook exerted himself on this +occasion, with his usual vigour. He went himself in pursuit of the +deserter, who, after some evasion on the part of the inhabitants, was +surrendered. He was found sitting between two women, with the musket +lying before him; and all the defence he was able to make was, that he +had been enticed away by the natives. As this account was probably the +truth, and as it appeared besides, that he had remained upon his post +till within ten minutes of the time when he was to have been relieved, +the punishment which the captain inflicted upon him was not very +severe. + +Some days after, a still more troublesome affair happened, of the same +nature. On the morning of the 24th, the captain was informed that a +midshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were +missing; and it soon appeared, that they had gone away in a canoe in +the preceding evening, and had now reached the other end of the +island. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire of +remaining at these islands, it was evident, that he and his companion +had gone off with that intention. Though Captain Clerke immediately +set out in quest of them with two armed boats, and a party of marines, +his expedition proved fruitless, the natives having amused him the +whole day with false intelligence. The next morning an account was +brought that the deserters were at Otaha. As they were not the only +persons in the ships who wished to spend their days at these favourite +islands, it became necessary for the purpose of preventing any farther +desertion, to recover them at all events. Captain Cook, therefore, in +order to convince the inhabitants that he was in earnest, resolved to +go after the fugitives himself; to which measure he was determined, +from having observed, in repeated instances, that the natives had +seldom offered to deceive him with false information. + +Agreeably to this resolution, the captain set out, the next morning, +with two armed boats, being accompanied by Oree, the chief of Ulietea, +and proceeded immediately to Otaha. But when he had gotten to the +place where the deserters were expected to be found, he was acquainted +that they were gone over to Bolabola. Thither our commander did not +think proper to follow them having determined to pursue another +measure, which he judged would more effectually answer his purpose. +This measure was to put the chief's son, daughter, and son-in-law, +into confinement, and to detain them till the fugitives should be +restored. As to Oree, he was informed, that he was at liberty to leave +the ship whenever he pleased, and to take such methods as he esteemed +best calculated to get our two men back; that, if he succeeded, his +friends should be released; if not, that Captain Cook was resolved to +carry them away with him. The captain added, that the chief's own +conduct, as well as that of many of his people, in assisting the +runaways to escape, and in enticing others to follow them, would +justify any step that could be taken to put a stop to such +proceedings. In consequence of this explanation of our commander's +views and intentions, Oree zealously exerted himself to recover the +deserters, for which purpose he dispatched a canoe to Bolabola, with a +message to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, acquainting him with +what had happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives and +send them back. The messenger, who was no less a person than the +father of Pootoe, Oree's son-in-law, came, before he set out, to +Captain Cook, to receive his commands; which were, not to return +without the runaways, and to inform Opoony, that, if they had left +Bolabola, he must dispatch canoes in pursuit of them, till they should +finally be restored. These vigorous measures were, at length, +successful. On the 28th the deserters were brought back; and, as soon +as they were on board, the three prisoners were released. Our +commander would not have acted so resolutely on the present occasion, +had he not been peculiarly solicitous to save the son of a brother +officer from being lost to his country. + +While this affair was in suspense, some of the natives, from their +anxiety on account of the confinement of the chief's relations, had +formed a design of a very serious nature; which was no less than to +seize upon the persons of Captain Clerke and Captain Cook. With regard +to Captain Clerke, they made no secret of speaking of their scheme, +the day after it was discovered. But their first and grand plan of +operations was to lay hold of Captain Cook. It was his custom to +bathe, every evening, in fresh water; in doing which he frequently +went alone, and always without arms. As the inhabitants expected him +to go, as usual, on the evening of the 26th, they had determined at +that time to make him a prisoner. But he had thought it prudent, after +confining Oree's family, to avoid putting himself in their power; and +had cautioned Captain Clerke, and the officers, not to venture +themselves far from the ships. In the course of the afternoon, the +chief asked Captain Cook, three several times, if he would not go to +the bathing-place; and when he found, at last, that the captain could +not be prevailed upon, he went off, with all his people. He was +apprehensive, without doubt, that the design was discovered; though no +suspicion of it was then entertained by our commander, who imagined, +that the natives were seized with some sudden fright, from which, as +usual, they would quickly recover. On one occasion, Captain Clerke and +Mr. Gore were in particular danger. A party of the inhabitants, armed +with clubs, advanced against them; and their safety was principally +owing to Captain Clerke's walking with a pistol in his hand, which he +once fired. The discovery of the conspiracy, especially so far as +respected Captain Clerke and Mr. Gore, was made by a girl, whom one of +the officers had brought from Huaheine. On this account, those who +were charged with the execution of the design were so greatly offended +with her, that they threatened to take away her life, as soon as our +navigators should leave the island: but proper methods were pursued +for her security. It was a happy circumstance that the affair was +brought to light; since such a scheme could not have been carried into +effect, without being, in its consequences, productive of much +distress and calamity to the natives. + +Whilst Captain Cook was at Ulietea, he was visited by his old friend +Oree, who, in the former voyages, was chief, or rather regent, of +Huaheine. Notwithstanding his now being, in some degree, reduced to +the rank of a private person he still preserved his consequence; never +appeared without a numerous body of attendants; and was always +provided with such presents, as indicated his wealth, and were highly +acceptable. + +The last of the Society Islands to which our commander sailed was +Bolabola, where he arrived on the 8th of December. His chief view in +passing over to this island was to procure from its monarch, Opoony, +an anchor which Monsieur de Bougainville had lost at Otaheite, and +which had been conveyed to Bolabola. It was not from a want of anchors +that Captain Cook was desirous of making the purchase, but to convert +the iron of which it consisted into a fresh assortment of trading +articles, these being now very much exhausted. The captain succeeded +in his negotiation, and amply rewarded Opoony for giving up the +anchor. + +Whilst our commander was at Bolabola, he received an account of those +military expeditions of the people of this country, which he had heard +much of in each of his three voyages, and which had ended in the +complete conquest of Ulietea and Otaha. The Bolabola men, in +consequence of these enterprises, where in the highest reputation for +their valour; and, indeed, were deemed so invincible, as to be the +objects of terror to all the neighbouring islands. It was an addition +to their fame, that their country was of such small extent, being not +more than eight leagues in compass, and not half so large as Ulietea. + +Captain Cook continued to the last his zeal for furnishing the natives +of the South Sea with useful animals. At Bolabola, where there was +already a ram, which had originally been left by the Spaniards at +Otaheite, he carried ashore an ewe, that had been brought from the +Cape of Good Hope; and he rejoiced in the prospect of laying a +foundation, by this present, for a breed of sheep in the island. He +left also at Ulietea, under the care of Oree, an English boar and sow, +and two goats. It may, therefore, be regarded as certain, that not +only Otaheite, but all the neighbouring islands, will, in a few years, +have their race of hogs considerably improved; and it is probable, +that they will be stocked with all the valuable animals, which have +been transported thither by their European visitors. When this shall +be accomplished, no part of the world will equal these islands, in the +variety and abundance of the refreshments which they will be able to +afford to navigators; nor did the captain know any place that excelled +them, even in their present state. + +It is an observation of great importance, that the future felicity of +the inhabitants of Otaheite, and the Society Islands, will not a +little depend on their continuing to be visited from Europe. Our +commander could not avoid expressing it as his real opinion, that it +would have been far better for these poor people, never to have known +our superiority in the accommodations and arts which render life +comfortable, than after once knowing it, to be again left and +abandoned to their original incapacity of improvement. If the +intercourse between them and us should wholly be discontinued, they +cannot be restored to that happy mediocrity, in which they lived +before they were first discovered. It seemed to Captain Cook, that it +was become, in a manner, incumbent upon the Europeans to visit these +islands once in three or four years, in order to supply the natives +with those conveniences which we have introduced among them, and for +which we have given them a predilection. Perhaps they may heavily feel +the want of such occasional supplies, when it may be too late to go +back to their old and less perfect contrivances; contrivances which +they now despise, and which they have discontinued since the +introduction of ours. It is, indeed, to be apprehended, that by the +time that the iron tools, of which they had become possessed, are worn +out, they will have almost lost the knowledge of their own. In this +last voyage of our commander, a stone hatchet was as rare a thing +among the inhabitants as an iron one was eight years before; and a +chisel of bone or stone was not to be seen. Spike nails had succeeded +in their place; and of spike nails the natives were weak enough to +imagine that they had gotten an inexhaustible store. Of all our +commodities, axes, and hatchets remained the most unrivalled; and they +must ever be held in the highest estimation through the whole of the +islands. Iron tools are so strikingly useful, and are now become so +necessary to the comfortable existence of the inhabitants, that, +should they cease to receive supplies of them, their situation, in +consequence of their neither possessing the materials, nor being +trained up to the art of fabricating them, would be rendered +completely miserable. It is impossible to reflect upon this +representation of things without strong feelings of sympathy and +concern. Sincerely is it to be wished, that such may be the order of +events, and such the intercourse carried on with the southern +islanders, that, instead of finally suffering by their acquaintance +with us, they may rise to a higher state of civilization, and +permanently enjoy blessings far superior to what they had heretofore +known. + +Amidst the various subordinate employments which engaged the attention +of Captain Cook and his associates, the great objects of their duty +were never forgotten. No opportunity was lost of making astronomical +and nautical observations; the consequence of which was, that the +latitude and longitude of the places where the ships anchored, the +variations of the compass, the dips of the needle, and the state of +the tides, were ascertained with an accuracy that forms a valuable +addition to philosophical science, and will be of eminent service to +future navigators. + +Our commander was now going to take his final departure from Otaheite +and the Society Islands. Frequently as they had been visited, it might +have been imagined, that their religious, political, and domestic +regulations, manners and customs, must, by this time, be thoroughly +understood. A great accession of knowledge was undoubtedly gained in +the present voyage; and yet it was confessed, both by Captain Cook and +Mr. Anderson, that their accounts of things were still imperfect in +various respects; and that they continued strangers to many of the +most important institutions which prevail among the natives. There was +one part of the character of several of these people, on which the +well regulated mind of the captain would not permit him to enlarge. +'Too much,' says he, 'seems to have been already known, and published +in our former relations, about some of the modes of life, that made +Otaheite, so agreeable an abode to many on board our ships; and if I +could now add any finishing strokes to a picture, the outlines of +which have been already drawn with sufficient accuracy, I should still +have hesitated to make this journal the place for exhibiting a view of +licentious manners, which could only serve to disgust those for whose +information I write. + +From Mr. Anderson's account of the Otaheitans, it appears, that their +religious system is extensive, and, in various instances, singular. +They do not seem to pay respect to one God as possessing pre-eminence, +but believe in a plurality of divinities, all of whom are supposed to +be very powerful. In different parts of the island, and in the +neighbouring islands, the inhabitants choose those deities for the +objects of their worship, who, they think, are most likely to protect +them, and to supply all their wants. If, however, they are +disappointed in their expectations, they deem it no impiety to change +their divinity, by having recourse to another, whom they hope to find +more propitious and successful. In general, their notions concerning +Deity are extravagantly absurd. With regard to the soul, they believe +it, according to Mr. Anderson, to be both immaterial and immortal; but +he acknowledges, that they are far from entertaining those sublime +expectations of future happiness which the Christian revelation +affords, and which even reason alone, duly exercised might teach us to +expect. + +Although seventeen months had elapsed since Captain Cook's departure +from England, during which time he had not, upon the whole, been +unprofitably employed, he was sensible that, with respect to the +principal object of his instructions, it was now only the commencement +of his voyage and that, therefore, his attention was to be called anew +to every circumstance which might contribute towards the safety of his +people, and the ultimate success of the expedition. Accordingly, he +had examined into the state of the provisions, whilst he was at the +Society Islands, and, as soon as he had left them, and had gotten +beyond the extent of his former discoveries, he ordered a survey to be +taken of all the boatswain's and carpenters stores which were in the +ships, that he might be fully informed of their quantity and +condition; and, by that means, know how to use them to the greatest +advantage. + +It was on the 8th of December, the very day on which he had touched +there, that our commander sailed from Bolabola. In the night between +the 22nd and 23rd, he crossed the line, in the longitude of 203° 15' +east; and on the 24th land was discovered, which was found to be one +of those low uninhabited islands, that are so frequent in this ocean. +Here our voyagers were successful in catching a large quantity of +turtle, which supplied them with an agreeable refreshment; and here, +on the 28th, an eclipse of the sun was observed by Mr. Bayley, Mr. +King, and Captain Cook. On account of the season of the year, the +captain called the land where he now was, and which he judged to be +about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference, Christmas Island. By +his order, several cocoa-nuts and yams were planted, and some melon +seeds sown in proper places; and a bottle was left, containing this +inscription: + + _Georgius Tertius, Rex. 31 Decembris, 1777. + { Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. + Naves { + { Discovery. Car. Clerke, Pr._ + +On the 2nd of January, 1778, the ships resumed their course to the +northward, and though several evidences occurred of the vicinity of +land, none was discovered till the 18th, when an island made its +appearance, bearing north-east by east. Soon after, more land was +seen, lying towards the north, and entirely detached from the former. +The succeeding day was distinguished by the discovery of a third +island in the direction of west-north-west, and as far distant as the +eye could reach. In steering towards the second island, our voyagers +had some doubt whether the land before them was inhabited; but this +matter was speedily cleared up, by the putting off of some canoes from +the shore, containing from three to six men each. Upon their approach, +the English were agreeably surprised to find, that they spoke the +language of Otaheite, and of the other countries which had lately been +visited. These people were at first fearful of going on board; but +when, on the 20th, some of them took courage, and ventured to do it, +they expressed an astonishment, on entering the ship, which Captain +Cook had never experienced in the natives of any place during the +whole course of his several voyages. Their eyes continually flew from +object to object; and, by the wildness of their looks and gestures, +they fully manifested their entire ignorance with relation to every +thing they saw, and strongly marked to our navigators, that, till this +time, they had never been visited by Europeans, or been acquainted +with any of our commodities, excepting iron. Even with respect to +iron, it was evident that they had only heard of it, or at most, had +known it in some small quantity, brought to them at a distant period; +for all they understood concerning it was, that it was a substance +much better adapted to the purpose of cutting, or boring of holes, +than any thing their own country produced. Their ceremonies on +entering the ship, their gestures and motions, and their manner of +singing, were similar to those which our voyagers had been accustomed +to see in the places lately visited. There was, likewise, a farther +circumstance in which these people perfectly resembled the other +islanders: and that was, in their endeavouring to steal whatever came +within their reach; or rather to take it openly, as what would either +not be resented or not hindered. The English soon convinced them of +their mistake, by keeping such a watchful eye over them that they +afterwards were obliged to be less active in appropriating to +themselves every object that struck upon their fancy and excited the +desire of possession. + +One order given by Captain Cook at this island was that none of the +boats' crews should be permitted to go on shore; the reason of which +was, that he might do every thing in his power to prevent the +importation of a fatal disease, which unhappily had already been +communicated in other places. With the same view, he directed that all +female visitors should be excluded from the ships. Another necessary +precaution, taken by the captain, was a strict injunction, that no +person known to be capable of propagating disorder should be sent upon +duty out of the vessels. Thus zealous was the humanity of our +commander, to prevent an irreparable injury from being done to the +natives. There are men who glory in their shame, and who do not care +how much evil they communicate. Of this there was an instance at +Tongataboo, in the gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on +shore to manage the trade for that ship; and who, though he was well +acquainted with his own situation, continued to have connexions with +different women. His companions expostulated with him without effect, +till Captain Clerke, hearing of the dangerous irregularity of his +conduct ordered him on board. If I knew the rascal's name, I would +hang it up, as far as lies in my power, to everlasting infamy. + +Mr. Williamson being sent with the boats to search for water, and +attempting to land, the inhabitants came down in such numbers, and +were so violent in their endeavours to seize upon the oars, muskets, +and, in short, every thing they could lay hold of, that he was obliged +to fire, by which one man was killed. This unhappy circumstance was +not known to Captain Cook till after he had left the island; so that +all his measures were directed as if nothing of the kind had happened. + +When the ships were brought to an anchor, our commander went on shore; +and, at the very instant of his doing it, the collected body of the +natives all fell flat upon their faces, and continued in that humble +posture, till, by expressive signs, he prevailed upon them to rise. +Other ceremonies followed; and the next day a trade was set on foot +for hogs and potatoes, which the people of the island gave in exchange +for nails and pieces of iron, formed into something like chisels. So +far was any obstruction from being met with in watering, that, on the +contrary, the inhabitants assisted our men in rolling the casks to and +from the pool; and readily performed whatever was required. + +Affairs thus going on to the captain's satisfaction, he made an +excursion into the country, accompanied by Mr. Anderson and Mr. +Webber, the former of whom was as well qualified to describe with the +pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, whatever might +occur worthy of observation. In this excursion, the gentlemen, among +other objects that called for their attention, found a _Morai_. +On the return of our commander, he had the pleasure of finding that a +brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and roots was carrying on with the +greatest good order, and without any attempt to cheat, or steal, on +the part of the natives. The rapacious disposition they at first +displayed was entirely corrected by their conviction that it could not +be exercised with impunity. Among the articles which they brought to +barter, the most remarkable was a particular sort of cloak and cap, +that might be reckoned elegant, even in countries where dress is +eminently the object of attention. The cloak was richly adorned with +red and yellow feathers, which in themselves were highly beautiful, +and the newness and freshness of which added not a little to their +beauty. + +On the 22nd, a circumstance occurred, which gave the English room to +suspect that the people of the island are eaters of human flesh. Not, +however, to rest the belief of the existence of so horrid a practice +on the foundation of suspicion only, Captain Cook was anxious to +inquire into the truth of the fact, the result of which was its being +fully confirmed. An old man, in particular, who was asked upon the +subject, answered in the affirmative, and seemed to laugh at the +simplicity of such a question. His answer was equally affirmative on a +repetition of the inquiry; and he added, that the flesh of men was +excellent food, or, as he expressed it, "savoury eating". It is +understood that enemies slain in battle are the sole objects of this +abominable custom. + +The island, at which our voyagers had now touched, was called Atooi by +the natives. Near it was another island, named Oneeheow, where our +commander came to an anchor on the 29th of the month. The inhabitants +were found to resemble those of Atooi in their dispositions, manners, +and customs; and proofs, too convincing, appeared that the horrid +banquet of human flesh is here as much relished, amidst plenty, as it +is in New Zealand. From a desire of benefiting these people by +furnishing them with additional articles of food, the captain left +them a ram goat and two ewes, a boar and sow pig of the English breed, +and the seeds of melons, pumpkins and onions. These benevolent +presents would have been made to Atooi, the larger island, had not our +navigators been unexpectedly driven from it by stress of weather. +Though the soil of Oneeheow seemed in general poor it was observable, +that the ground was covered with shrubs and plants, some of which +perfumed the air with a more delicious fragrancy than what Captain +Cook had met with at any other of the countries that had been visited +by him in this part of the world. + +It is a curious circumstance, with regard to the islands in the +Pacific Ocean which the late European voyages have added to the +geography of the globe, that they have generally been found to lie in +groups, or clusters. The single intermediate islands, which have as +yet been discovered, are few in proportion to the others; though there +are probably many more of them that are still unknown, and may serve +as steps, by which the several clusters are to some degree connected +together. Of the archipelago now first visited, there were five only +with which our commander became at this time acquainted. The names of +these, as given by the natives, were Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, +Oreehoua, and Tahoora. To the whole group Captain Cook gave the +appellation of Sandwich Islands, in honour of his great friend and +patron, the Earl of Sandwich. + +Concerning the island of Atooi, which is the largest of the five, and +which was the principal scene of the captain's operations, he +collected, in conjunction with Mr. Anderson, a considerable degree of +information. The land, as to its general appearance, does not in the +least resemble any of the islands that our voyagers had hitherto +visited within the tropic, on the south side of the equator; excepting +so far as regards its hills near the centre, which slope gently +towards the sea. Hogs, dogs, and fowls, were the only tame or domestic +animals that were to be found; and these were of the same kind with +those which exist in the countries of the South Pacific Ocean. Among +the inhabitants (who are of a middle stature, and firmly made), there +is a more remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of both +sexes, than our commander had observed in most other places. They +appeared to be blessed with a frank and cheerful disposition; and, in +Captain Cook's opinion, they are equally free from the fickle levity +which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the sedate cast +discernable amongst many of those at Tongataboo. It is a very pleasing +circumstance in their character, that they pay a particular attention +to their women, and readily lend assistance to their wives in the +tender offices of maternal duty. On all occasions, they seemed to be +deeply impressed with a consciousness of their own inferiority; being +alike strangers to the preposterous pride of the more polished +Japanese, and of the ruder Greenlander. Contrary to the general +practice of the countries that had hitherto been discovered in the +Pacific Ocean, the people of the Sandwich Islands have not their ears +perforated; nor have they the least idea of wearing ornaments in them, +though, in other respects, they are sufficiently fond of adorning +their persons. In every thing manufactured by them, there is an +uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity; and the elegant form and +polish of some of their fishing-hooks could not be exceeded by any +European artist, even if he should add all his knowledge in design to +the number and convenience of his tools. From what was seen of their +agriculture, sufficient proofs were afforded, that they are not +novices in that art; and that the quantity and goodness of their +vegetable productions may as much be attributed to skilful culture, as +to natural fertility of soil. Amidst all the resemblances between the +natives of Atooi, and those of Otaheite, the coincidence of their +languages was the most striking; being almost word for word the same. +Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered by the Spaniards at an early +period, they would undoubtedly have taken advantage of so excellent a +situation, and have made use of them as refreshing places, for their +ships, which sail annually from Acapulca for Manilla. Happy, too, +would it have been for Lord Anson, if he had known that there existed +a group of islands, half way between America and Tinian, where all his +wants could effectually have been supplied, and the different +hardships to which he was exposed have been avoided. + +On the second of February, our navigators pursued their course to the +northward, in doing which the incidents they met with were almost +entirely of a nautical kind. The long looked-for coast of New Albion +was seen on the 7th of March, the ships being then in the latitude of +44° 33' north, and in the longitude of 235° 20' east. As the vessels +ranged along the west side of America, Captain Cook gave names to +several capes and headlands which appeared in sight. At length, on the +29th, the captain came to an anchor at an inlet, where the appearance +of the country differed much from what had been seen before; being +full of mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow; while +the valleys between them, and the grounds on the sea-coast, high as +well as low, were covered, to a considerable breadth, was high, +straight trees, which formed a beautiful prospect, as of one vast +forest. It was immediately found, that the coast was inhabited; and +there soon came off to the Resolution three canoes, containing +eighteen of the natives; who could not, however, be prevailed upon to +venture themselves on board. Notwithstanding this, they displayed a +peaceable disposition; shewed great readiness to part with any thing +they had, in exchange for what was offered them; and expressed a +stronger desire for iron than for any other of our commercial +articles, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that +metal. From these favourable circumstances, our voyagers had reason to +hope, that they should find this a comfortable station to supply all +their wants, and to make them forget the hardships and delays which +they had experienced during a constant succession of adverse winds, +and boisterous weather, almost ever since their arrival upon the coast +of America. + +The ships having happily found an excellent inlet, the coasts of which +appeared to be inhabited by a race of people who were disposed to +maintain a friendly intercourse with strangers, Captain Cook's first +object was to search for a commodious harbour; and he had little +trouble in discovering what he wanted. A trade having immediately +commenced, the articles which the inhabitants offered for sale were +the skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, +racoons, polecats, martins; and, in particular, of the sea-otters. To +these were added, besides the skins in their native shape, garments +made of them; another sort of clothing, formed from the bark of a +tree; and various different pieces of workmanship. But of all the +articles brought to market, the most extraordinary were human skulls, +and hands not yet quite stripped of their flesh; some of which had +evident marks of their having been upon the fire. The things, which +the natives took in exchange for their commodities, were knives, +chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or +any kind of metal. Glass beads did not strike their imaginations; and +cloth of every sort they rejected. Though commerce, in general, was +carried on with mutual honesty, there were some among these people who +were as much inclined to thievery as the islanders in the Southern +Ocean. They were, at the same time, far more dangerous thieves; for, +possessing sharp iron instruments, they could cut a hook from a +tackle, or any other piece of iron from a rope, the moment that the +backs of the English were turned. The dexterity with which they +conducted their operations of this nature, frequently eluded the most +cautious vigilance. Some slighter instances of deception, in the way +of traffic, Captain Cook thought it better to bear with, than to make +them the foundation of a quarrel; and to this he was the rather +determined, as the English articles were now reduced to objects of a +trifling nature. In the progress of the commerce, the natives would +deal for nothing but metal; and, at length, brass was so eagerly +sought for, in preference to iron, that, before our navigators quitted +the place, scarcely a bit of it was left in the ships, excepting what +belonged to the necessary instruments. Whole suits of clothes were +stripped of every button: bureaus were deprived of their furniture; +copper kettles, tin canisters, candlesticks, and whatever of the like +kind could be found, all went to wreck; so that these Americans became +possessors of a greater medley and variety of things from our people, +than any other nation that had been visited in the course of the +voyage. + +Of all the uncivilized tribes which our commander had met with in his +several navigations, he never found any who had such strict notions of +their having a right to the exclusive property of everything which +their country produces, as the inhabitants of the sound where he was +now stationed. At first, they wanted to be paid for the wood and water +that were carried on board; and had the captain been upon the spot, +when these demands were made, he would certainly have complied with +them; but the workmen, in his absence, maintained a different opinion, +and refused to submit to any such claims. When some grass, which +appeared to be of no use to the natives, was wanted to be cut, as food +for the few goats and sheep which still remained on board, they +insisted that it should be purchased, and were very unreasonable in +their terms; notwithstanding which Captain Cook consented to gratify +them, as far as he was able. It was always a sacred rule with him, +never to take any of the property of the people whom he visited, +without making them an ample compensation. + +The grand operation of our navigators, to their present station, was +to put the ships into a complete repair for the prosecution of the +expedition. While this business was carrying on, our commander took +the opportunity of examining every part of the sound; in the course of +which he gained a farther knowledge of the inhabitants, who in +general, received him with great civility. In one instance he met with +a surly chief, who could not be softened with presents, though he +condesended to accept of them. The females of the place over which he +presided shewed a more agreeable disposition; for some of the young +women expeditiously dressed themselves in their best apparel, and, +assembling in a body, welcomed the English to their village, by +joining in a song, which was far from being harsh or dissagreeable. On +another occasion, the captain was entertained with singing. Being +visited by a number of strangers, on the 22nd of April, as they +advanced towards the ships, they all stood up in their canoes, and +began to sing. Some of their songs, in which the whole body joined, +were in a slow, and others in a quicker time; and their notes were +accompanied with the most regular motions of their hands; or with +beating in concert, with their paddles, on the sides of their canoes; +to which were added other very expressive gestures. At the end of each +song, they continued silent for a few moments, and then began again, +sometimes pronouncing the word _Hooee!_ forcibly as a chorus. + +Among the natives of the country, there was one chief who attached +himself to our commander in a particular manner. Captain Cook having, +at parting, bestowed upon him a small present, received, in return, a +beaver skin, of much greater value. This called upon the captain to +make some addition to his present, with which the chief was so much +pleased, that he insisted on our commander's acceptance of the +beaver-skin cloak which he then wore; and of which he was particularly +fond. Admiring this instance of generosity, and desirous that he +should not suffer by his friendship, the captain gave him a new +broad-sword, with a brass hilt; the possession of which rendered him +completely happy. + +On Captain Cook's first arrival in this inlet, he had honoured it with +the name of King George's Sound; but he afterward found that it is +called Nootka by the natives. During his stay in the place, he +displayed his usual sagacity and diligence, in conjunction with Mr. +Anderson, in collecting every thing that could be learned concerning +the neighbouring country and its inhabitants; and the account is +interesting, as it exhibits a picture of productions, people, and +manners very different from what had occurred in the Southern Ocean. I +can only, as on former occasions, slightly advert to a few of the more +leading circumstances. The climate, so far as our navigators had +experience of it, was found to be in an eminent degree milder than +that on the east coast of America, in the same parallel of latitude: +and it was remarkable, that the thermometer, even in the night, never +fell lower than 42°; while in the day it frequently rose to 60°. With +regard to trees, those of which the woods are chiefly composed, are +the Canadian pine, the white cypress and the wild pine, with two or +three different sorts of pine that are less common. In the other +vegetable productions there appeared but little variety: but it is to +be considered, that, at so early a season, several might not yet have +sprung up; and that many more might be concealed from our voyagers, in +consequence of the narrow sphere of their researches. Of the land +animals, the most common were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. The sea +animals, which were seen off the coast, were whales, porpoises, and +seals. Birds, in general, are not only rare as to the different +species, but very scarce as to numbers; and the few which are to be +met with are so shy, that, in all probability, they are continually +harassed by the natives; either to eat them as food, or to get +possession of their feathers, which are used as ornaments. Fish are +more plentiful in quantity than birds, but were not found in any great +variety; and yet, from several circumstances, there was reason to +believe, that the variety is considerably increased at certain +seasons. The only animals that were observed of the reptile kind were +snakes and water-lizards; but the insect tribe seemed to be more +numerous. + +With respect to the inhabitants of the country, their persons are +generally under the common stature; but not slender in proportion, +being usually pretty full or plump, though without being muscular. +From their bringing to sale human skulls and bones, it may justly be +inferred, that they treat their enemies with a degree of brutal +cruelty; notwithstanding which, it does not follow, that they are to +be reproached with any charge of peculiar inhumanity: for the +circumstance now mentioned only marks a general agreement of character +with that of almost every tribe of uncivilized men, in every age, and +in every part of the globe. Our navigators had no reason to complain +of the disposition of the natives, who appeared to be a docile +courteous, good-natured people; rather phlegmatic in the usual cast of +their tempers, but quick in resenting what they apprehend to be an +injury, and easily permitting their anger to subside. Their other +passions, and especially their curiosity, seemed to lie in some +measure dormant; one cause of which may be found in the indolence +that, for the most part, is prevalent amongst them. The chief +employments of the men are those of fishing, and of killing land or +sea animals, for the sustenance of their families; while the women are +occupied in manufacturing their flaxen or woollen garments, or in +other domestic offices. It must be mentioned to their honour, that +they were always properly clothed, and behaved with the utmost +decorum; justly deserving all commendation, for a bashfulness and +modesty becoming their sex: and this was the more meritorious in them, +as the male inhabitants discovered no sense of shame. In their +manufactures and mechanic arts, these people have arrived to a greater +degree of extent and ingenuity, both with regard to the design and the +execution, than could have been expected from their natural +disposition, and the little progress to which they have arrived in +general civilization. Their dexterity, in particular, with respect to +works of wood, must principally be ascribe to the assistance they +receive from iron tools, which are in universal use amongst them, and +in the application of which they are very dexterous. Whence they have +derived their knowledge of iron was a matter of speculation with +Captain Cook. The most probable opinion is, that this and other metals +may have been introduced by way of Hudson's Bay and Canada, and thus +successively have been conveyed across the continent, from tribe to +tribe. Nor is it unreasonable to suppose, that those metals may +sometimes be brought, in the same manner, from the north-western parts +of Mexico.[11] The language of Nootka is by no means harsh or +disagreeable; for it abounds, upon the whole, rather with what may be +called labial and dental, than with guttural sounds. A large +vocabulary of it was collected by Mr. Anderson. + + [Footnote 11: Two silver spoons of a construction similar to what + may sometimes be seen in Flemish pictures of still life, were + procured here by Mr. Gore, who bought them from a native, who wore + them, tied together with a leather thong, as an ornament round his + neck. Mr. Gore gave the spoons to Sir Joseph Banks.] + +Whilst Captain Cook was at Nootka Sound, great attention was paid by +him, as usual, to astronomical and nautical subjects. The observations +which he had an opportunity of making were, indeed, so numerous, as to +form a very considerable addition to geographical and philosophical +science. + +On the 26th, the repairs of the ships having been completed, every +thing was ready for the captain's departure. When, in the afternoon of +that day, the vessels were upon the point of sailing, the mercury in +the barometer fell unusually low; and there was every other presage of +an approaching storm, which might reasonably be expected to come from +the southward. This circumstance induced our commander in some degree +to hesitate, and especially as night was at hand, whether he should +venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But his anxious +impatience to proceed upon the voyage, and the fear of losing the +present opportunity of getting out of the sound, made a greater +impression upon his mind, than any apprehension of immediate danger. +He determined, therefore, to put to sea at all events; and accordingly +carried his design into execution that evening. He was not deceived in +his expectations of a storm. Scarcely were the vessels out of the +sound before the wind increased to a strong gale, with squalls and +rain, accompanied by so dark a sky, that the length of the ships could +not be seen. Happily the wind took a direction that blew our +navigators from the coast; and though, on the 27th, the tempest rose +to a perfect hurricane, and the Resolution sprang a leak, no material +damage ensued. + +In the prosecution of the voyage to the north, and back again to the +Sandwich Islands, the facts that occurred were chiefly of a nautical +kind. Minutely to record these is not the purpose of the present work, +and indeed would extend it to an unreasonable length. + +From this long and important navigation, I can only select some few +incidents, that may be accommodated to the taste and expectations of +the generality of readers. + +One thing it is not improper here to observe; which is, that the +captain, in his passage along the coast of America, kept at a distance +from that coast, whenever the wind blew strongly upon it, and sailed +on till he could approach it again with safety. Hence several great +gaps were left unexplored, and particularly between the latitudes of +50° and 55°. The exact situation, for instance, of the supposed +Straits of Anian was not ascertained. Every one who is acquainted with +the character of our commander will be sensible, that if he had lived +to return again to the north in 1779. he would have endeavoured to +explore the parts which had been left unexamined. + +The first place at which Captain Cook landed, after his departure from +Nootka Sound, was at an island, of eleven or twelve leagues in length, +the south-west point of which lies in the latitude of 59° 49' north, +and the longitude of 216° 58' east. Here, on the 11th of May, at the +foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, he left a +bottle, with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of the +ships, and the date of the discovery. Together with the bottle, he +enclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his majesty's coin, which had +been struck in 1772. These, with many others, had been given him by +the Reverend Dr. Kaye, the present Dean of Lincoln; and our commander, +as a mark of his esteem and regard for that learned and respectable +gentleman, named the island, after him, Kaye's island. + +At an inlet, where the ships came to an anchor, on the 12th, and to +which Captain Cook gave the appellation of Prince William's Sound, he +had an opportunity not only of stopping the leak which the Resolution +had sprung in the late storm, and of prosecuting his nautical and +geographical discoveries, but of making considerable additions to his +knowledge of the inhabitants of the American coast. From every +observation which was made concerning the persons of the natives of +this part of the coast, it appeared, that they had a striking +resemblance to those of the Esquimaux and Greenlanders. Their canoes, +their weapons, and their instruments for fishing and hunting, are +likewise exactly the same, in point of materials and construction, +that are used in Greenland. The animals in the neighbourhood of Prince +William's Sound are, in general, similar to those which are found at +Nootka. One of the most beautiful skins here offered for sale, was, +however, that of a small animal, which seemed to be peculiar to the +place. Mr. Anderson was inclined to think that it is the animal which +is described by Mr. Pennant, under the name of the _casan_ +marmot. Among the birds seen in this country, were the white-headed +eagle; the shag; and the _alcedo_, or great king-fisher, the +colours of which were very fine and bright. The humming-bird, also, +came frequently and flew about the ship, while at anchor; but it can +scarcely be supposed, that it can be able to subsist here during the +severity of winter. Waterfowl, upon the whole, are in considerable +plenty; and there is a species of diver, about the size of a +partridge, which seems peculiar to the place. Torsk and halibut were +almost the only kinds of fish that were obtained by our voyagers. +Vegetables, of any sort, were few in number; and the trees were +chiefly the Canadian and spruce pine, some of which were of a +considerable height and thickness. The beads and iron, that were found +among the people of the coast, must undoubtedly have been derived from +some civilized nation; and yet there was ample reason to believe that +our English navigators were the first Europeans with whom the natives +had ever held a direct communication. From what quarter, then, had +they gotten our manufactures? Most probably, through the intervention +of the more inland tribes, from Hudson's Bay, or the settlements on +the Canadian lakes. This, indeed, must certainly have been the case, +if iron was known, amongst the inhabitants of this part of the +American coast, prior to the discovery of it by the Russians, and +before there was any traffic with them carried on from Kamtschatka. +From what was seen of Prince William's Sound, Captain Cook judged that +it occupied, at least, a degree and a half of latitude, and two of +longitude, exclusively of the arms or branches, the extent of which is +not known. + +Some days after leaving this sound our navigators came to an inlet, +from which great things were expected. Hopes were strongly +entertained, that it would be found to communicate either with the sea +to the north, or with Baffin's or Hudson's Bay to the east; and +accordingly it became the object of very accurate and serious +examination. The captain was soon persuaded that the expectations +formed from it were groundless; notwithstanding which, he persisted in +the search of a passage, more, indeed, to satisfy other people, than +to confirm his own opinion. In consequence of a complete investigation +of the inlet, indubitable marks occurred of its being a river. This +river, without seeing the least appearance of its source, was traced +by our voyagers, as high as the latitude of 61° 34', and the longitude +of 210°, being seventy leagues from its entrance. During the course of +the navigation, on the first of June, Lieutenant King was ordered on +shore, to display the royal flag, and to take possession of the +country in his majesty's name. The lieutenant, at the same time, +buried in the ground a bottle, containing some pieces of English coin, +of the year 1772, and a paper, on which the names of the ships were +inscribed, and the date of the present discovery. The great river now +discovered, promises to vie with the most considerable ones already +known; and, by itself and its branches, lies open to a very extensive +inland communication. If, therefore, the knowledge of it should be of +future service, the time which was spent in exploring it ought the +less to be regretted. But to Captain Cook, who had a much greater +object in view, the delay that was hence occasioned was a real loss, +because the season was advancing apace. It was, however, a +satisfaction to him to reflect, that if he had not examined this very +considerable inlet, it would have been assumed, by speculative +fabricators of geography, as a fact, that there was a passage through +it to the North Sea, or to Baffin's or Hudson's Bay. Perhaps, too, it +would have been marked, on future maps of the world, with greater +precision, and more, certain signs of reality, than the invisible, +because imaginary, Straits of de Fuca and de Fonte. In describing the +inlet, our commander had left a blank which was not filled up with any +particular name; and, therefore, the Earl of Sandwich directed, with +the greatest propriety, that it should be called Cook's River. + +All the natives who were met with, during the examination of this +river, appeared, from every mark of resemblance, to be of the same +nation with the inhabitants of Prince Willam's Sound; but from the +people of Nootka, or King George's Sound, they essentially differed, +both in their persons and their language. The only things which were +seen among them, that were not of their own manufacture, were a few +glass beads, the iron points of their spears, and knives of the same +metal. Whencesoever these articles might be derived, it was evident, +that they had never had any immediate intercourse with the Russians; +since, if that had been the case, our voyagers would scarcely have +found them clothed in such valuable skins as those of the sea-otter. A +very beneficial fur-trade might undoubtedly be carried on with the +inhabitants of this vast coast. But without a practicable northern +passage, the situation is too remote to render it probable, that Great +Britain should hence ever derive any material advantage; though it is +impossible to say with certainty, how far the spirit of commerce, for +which the English nation is so eminently distinguished, may extend. +The most valuable, or rather the only valuable skins, which Captain +Cook saw on the west side of America, were those of the sea-otter; for +as to the skins of all the other animals of the country, and +especially of the foxes and martins, they seemed to be of an inferior +quality. + +It was on the 6th of June that our navigators got clear of Cook's +River. Proceeding in the course of their discoveries, when they were +sailing, on the 19th, amidst the group of islands, which were called, +by Beering, Schumagin's Islands, Captain Clerke fired three guns, and +brought to, expressing by the proper signals, that he wished to speak +with Captain Cook. At this our commander was not a little alarmed; and +as no apparent danger had been remarked in the passage through the +channel where the vessels now were, it was apprehended, that some +accident, such as springing a leak, must have happened. On Captain +Clerke's coming on board the Resolution, he related that several of +the natives had followed his ship; that one of them had made many +signs, taking off his cap, and bowing after the manner of Europeans; +and that, at length, he had fastened to a rope, which was handed down +to him, a small thin wooden case or box. Having delivered his parcel +safe, and spoken something, accompanied with more signs, the canoes +dropped astern, and left the Discovery. On opening the box, a piece of +paper was found, folded up carefully, upon which something was +written, that was reasonably supposed to be in the Russian language. +To the paper was prefixed the date 1778, and in the body of the note +there was a reference to the year 1776. Although no person on board +was learned enough to decipher the alphabet of the writer, his +numerals sufficiently marked, that others had preceded our voyagers in +visiting this dreary part of the globe; and the prospect of soon +meeting with men, who were united to them in ties somewhat closer than +those of our common nature, and who were not strangers to the arts and +commerce of civilized life, could not but afford a sensible +satisfaction to people who, for such a length of time, had been +conversant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, and of the North +American continent. Captain Clerke was, at first, of opinion that some +Russians had been shipwrecked; but no such idea occurred to Captain +Cook. He rather thought, that the paper contained a note of +information, left by some Russian traders, to be delivered to the next +of their countrymen who should arrive; and that the natives, seeing +the English pass, and supposing them to be Russians, had resolved to +bring off the note. Accordingly, our commander pursued his voyage, +without inquiring farther into the matter. + +On the 21st, amongst some hills, on the main land, that towered above +the clouds to a most amazing height, one was discovered to have a +volcano, which continually threw up vast columns of black smoke. It +doth not stand far from the coast; and it lies in the latitude of 54° +48', and the longitude of 195° 45'. The mountain was rendered +remarkable by its figure, which is a complete cone, and the volcano is +at the very summit. While, in the afternoon of the same day, during a +calm of three hours the English were fishing with great success for +halibuts, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came to them from an +island in the neighbourhood. On approaching the ship, he took off his +cap, and bowed, as the native had done, who had visited the Discovery +a day or two before. From the acquired politeness of these people, as +well as from the note already mentioned, it was evident that the +Russians must have a communication and traffic with them; and of this +a fresh proof occurred in the present visitor; for he wore a pair of +green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth, or stuff, under the +gut-shirt or frock of his own country. + +In the prosecution of the voyage, on the 26th, there was so thick a +fog, that our navigators could not see a hundred yards before them; +notwithstanding which, as the weather was moderate, the captain did +not intermit his course. At length, however, being alarmed at the +sound of breakers on one side of the ship, he immediately brought her +to, and came to anchor; and the Discovery, by his order, did the same. +A few hours after, the fog having in some degree cleared away, it +appeared, that both the vessels had escaped a very imminent danger. +Providence, in the dark, had conducted them between rocks which our +commander would not have ventured to pass through in a clear day, and +had conveyed them to an anchoring place, as good as he could possibly +have fixed upon, had the choice been entirely at his option. + +On the 27th, our voyagers reached an island, that is known by the name +of Oonalashka; the inhabitants of which behaved with a degree of +politeness uncommon to savage tribes. A young man, who had overset his +canoe, being obliged by this accident to come on board the ship, went +down into Captain Cook's cabin, upon the first invitation, without +expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His own clothes being +wet, the captain gave him others, in which he dressed himself with as +much ease as any Englishman could have done. From the behaviour of +this youth, and that of some of the rest of the natives, it was +evident, that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to +several of their customs. There was something, however, in the English +ships, that greatly excited their attention; for such as could not +come off in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at +them. In one instance it was apparent, that the inhabitants were so +far from having made any progress in politeness, that they were still +immersed in the most savage manners. For as our commander was walking +along the shore, on the 29th, he met with a group of them, of both +sexes, who were seated on the grass, at a repast, consisting of raw +fish, which they seemed to eat with as much relish, as persons in +civilized life would experience from a turbot, served up in the +richest sauce. Soon after the vessels had come to an anchor at +Oonalashka, a native of the island brought on board such another note +as had been given to Captain Clerke. He presented it to Captain Cook; +but, as it was written in the Russian language, and could be of no use +to the English, though it might be of consequence to others, the +captain returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few +presents; for which he expressed his thanks by making several low bows +as he retired. + +On the 2nd of July, our voyagers put to sea from Oonalashka; and, +pursuing their course of navigation and discovery, came, on the 16th, +within sight of a promontory, near which our commander ordered +Lieutenant Williamson to land, that he might see what direction the +coast took beyond it, and what the country produced. Accordingly, Mr. +Williamson went on shore, and reported, on his return, that, having +landed on the point, and climbed the highest hill, he found that the +farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. At the same +time, he took possession of the country in his majesty's name, and +left a bottle, in which was enclosed a piece of paper, containing an +inscription of the names of the ships, together with the date of the +discovery. To the promontory he gave the name of Cape Newenham. The +land, as far as Mr. Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor +shrub; but the lower grounds were not destitute of grass, and of some +other plants, very few of which were in flower. + +When our navigators, on the 3rd of August, had advanced to the +latitude of 62° 34', a great loss was sustained by them in the death +of Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who had been lingering +under a consumption for more than twelve months. He was a young man of +a cultivated understanding and agreeable manners, and was well skilled +in his own profession; besides which, he had acquired a considerable +degree of knowledge in other branches of science. How useful an +assistant he was to Captain Cook, hath often appeared in the present +narrative. Had his life been spared, the public would undoubtedly have +received from him such communications, on various parts of the natural +history of the several places that had been visited, as would justly +have entitled him to very high commendation. The proofs of his +abilities that now remain, will hand down the name of Anderson, in +conjunction with that of Cook, to posterity. Soon after he had +breathed his last, land having been seen at a distance, which was +supposed to be an island, our commander honoured it with the +appellation of Anderson's Island. The next day he removed Mr. Law, the +surgeon of the Discovery, into the Resolution, and appointed Mr. +Samwell, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be surgeon of +the Discovery. + +On the 9th, Captain Cook came to an anchor under a point of land, to +which he gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales, and which is +remarkable by being the most western extremity of America hitherto +explored. This extremity is distant from the eastern Cape of Siberia +only thirteen leagues: and thus our commander had the glory of +ascertaining the vicinity of the two continents, which had only been +conjectured from the reports of the neighbouring Asiatic inhabitants, +and the imperfect observations of the Russian navigators. + +Resuming his course on the 10th, Captain Cook anchored in a bay, the +land of which was at first supposed to be part of the island of +Alaschka, which is laid down in Mr. Staehlin's map. But, from the +figure of the coast, from the situation of the opposite shore of +America, and from the longitude, the captain soon began to think, that +it was more probably the country of the Tschutski, on the eastern +extremity of Asia, which had been explored by Beering in 1728. In the +result it appeared, that this was in fact the case. Our commander +became fully satisfied in the farther progress of his voyage, that Mr. +Staehlin's map must be erroneous; and he had the honour of restoring +the American continent to that space which the geographer now +mentioned had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka. + +From the Bay of St. Lawrence, belonging to the country of the +Tschutski, our navigators steered, on the 11th, to the east, in order +to get nearer to the coast of America. After that, proceeding to the +north, they reached, on the 17th, the latitude of 70° 33'. On this +day, a brightness was perceived in the northern horizon, like that +which is reflected from ice, and is commonly called the _blink_. +This was at first but little noticed, from a supposition that there +was no probability of meeting with ice so soon: and yet the sharpness +of the air, and the gloominess of the weather, had, for two or three +days past, seemed to indicate a sudden change. In about an hour's +time, the sight of a large field of ice left Captain Cook no longer in +doubt with regard to the cause of the brightness of the horizon. The +ships, in the same afternoon, being then in the latitude of 70° 41', +were close to the edge of the ice, and not able to stand on any +farther. On the 18th, when the vessels were in the latitude of 70° +44', the ice on the side of them was as compact as a wall, and was +judged to be at least ten or twelve feet in height. Farther to the +north, it appeared to be much higher. Its surface was extremely +rugged, and in different places there were seen upon it pools of +water. A prodigious number of sea-horses lay upon the ice; and some of +them, on the nineteenth, were procured for food, there being at this +time a want of fresh provisions. When the animals were brought to the +vessels, it was no small disappointment to many of the seamen, who had +feasted their eyes for several days with the prospect of eating them, +to find that they were not sea-cows, as they had supposed, but +sea-horses. The disappointment would not have been occasioned, or the +difference known, had there not happened to be one or two sailors on +board who had been in Greenland, and who declared what these animals +were, and that it never was customary to eat of them. Such, however, +was the anxiety for a change of diet, as to overcome this prejudice. +Our voyagers lived upon the sea-horses as long as they lasted; and +there were few who did not prefer them to the salt meat. + +Captain Cook continued, to the 29th, to traverse the Icy Sea beyond +Beering's Strait, in various directions, and through numberless +obstructions and difficulties. Every day the ice increased, so as to +preclude all hopes of attaining, at least during the present year the +grand object of the voyage. Indeed, the season was now so far +advanced, and the time in which the frost was expected to set in was +so near at hand, that it would have been totally inconsistent with +prudence, to have made any farther attempts, till the next summer, at +finding a passage into the Atlantic. The attention, therefore, of our +commander was now directed to other important and necessary concerns. +It was of great consequence to meet with a place where our navigators +might be supplied with wood and water. But the point which principally +occupied the captain's thoughts was, how he should spend the winter, +so as to make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, at +the same time, to be in a condition to return to the north, in farther +search of a passage, in the ensuing summer. + +Before Captain Cook proceeded far to the south, he employed a +considerable time in examining the sea and coasts in the neighbourhood +of Beering's Strait, both on the side of Asia and America. In this +examination, he ascertained the accuracy of Beering, so far as he +went; demonstrated the errors with which Staehlin's map of the New +Northern Archipelago abounds; and made large additions to the +geographical knowledge of this part of the world. 'It reflects,' as +Mr. Coxe justly observes, 'the highest honour even on the British +name, that our great navigator extended his discoveries much farther +in one expedition, and at so great a distance from the point of his +departure, than the Russians accomplished in a long series of years, +and in parts belonging or contiguous to their own empire.' + +On the 2nd of October, our voyagers came within sight of the island of +Oonalashka, and anchored the next day in Samganoodha harbour. Here the +first concern was to put the ships under the necessary repair; and, +while the carpenters were employed in this business, one third of the +people had permission, by turns, to go and collect the berries with +which the island abounds, and, which, though now beginning to be in a +state of decay, did not a little contribute, in conjunction with +spruce-beer, effectually to eradicate every seed of the scurvy, that +might exist in either of the vessels. Such a supply of fish was +likewise procured, as not only served for present consumption, but +afforded a quantity to be carried out to sea; so that hence a +considerable saving was made of the provisions of the ships, which was +at this time an object of no small importance. + +Captain Cook, on the 8th, received by the hands of an Oonalashka man, +named Derramoushk, a very singular present, which was that of a rye +loaf, or rather a pie in the form of a loaf, for it enclosed some +salmon, highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like present for +Captain Clerke, and a note for each of the two captains, written in a +character which none on board could understand. It was natural to +suppose, that the presents came from some Russians in the +neighbourhood; and therefore a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter, +were sent to these unknown friends in return; it being rightly judged, +that such articles would be more acceptable than any thing besides +which it was in the power of our navigators to bestow. Corporal +Lediard of the marines,[12] an intelligent man, was, at the same time, +directed to accompany Derramoushk, for the purpose of gaining farther +information; and with orders, if he met with any Russians, that he +should endeavour to make them understand that our voyagers were +Englishmen, and the friends and allies of their nation. On the 10th +the corporal returned with three. Russian seamen, or furriers, who, +with several others, resided at Egoochshac, where they had a +dwellinghouse, some storehouses,[12] and a sloop of about thirty tons +burden. One of these men was either master or mate of this vessel; +another of them wrote a very good hand, and was acquainted with +figures: and all of them were sensible and well behaved persons, who +were ready to give Captain Cook every possible degree of information. +The great difficulty, in the reception and communication of +intelligence, arose from the want of an interpreter. On the 14th, a +Russian landed at Oonalashka, whose name was Erasim Gregorioff Sin +Ismyloff, and who was the principal person among his countrymen in +this and the neighbouring islands. Besides the intelligence which our +commander derived from his conversations with Ismyloff, and which were +carried on by signs, assisted by figures and other characters, he +obtained from him the sight of two charts, and was permitted to copy +them. Both of them were manuscripts, and bore every mark of +authenticity. The first included the Penshinskian Sea; the coast of +Tartary, down to the latitude of 41°; the Curil Islands and the +peninsula of Kamtschatka. But it was the second chart that was the +most interesting to Captain Cook; for it comprehended all the +discoveries made by the Russians to the eastward of Kamtschatka, +towards America; which, however, exclusively of the voyages of Beering +and Tscherikoff, amounted to little or nothing. Indeed, all the people +with whom the captain conversed at Oonalashka, agreed in assuring him, +over and over again, that they knew of no other islands, besides those +which were laid down upon this chart; and that no Russian had ever +seen any part of the continent of America to the northward, excepting +that which lies opposite to the country of the Tschutskis. + + [Footnote 12: This Corporal Lediard is an extraordinary man, + something of whose history cannot fail of being entertaining to my + readers. In the winter of 1768, he set out on the singular + undertaking of walking across the continent of America; for the + accomplishment of which purpose, he determined to travel by the + way of Siberia, and to procure a passage from that country to the + opposite American coast. Being an American by birth, and having; + no means of raising the money necessary for his expenses, a + subscription was raised for him by Sir Joseph Banks, and some + other gentlemen, accounting, in the whole to a little more than + fifty pounds. Vith this sum he proceeded to Hamburgh, frum which + place he went to Copenhagen, and thence to Petersburgh, where he + arrived in the beginning of March, 1787. In his journey from + Copenhagen to Petersburgh, finding that the gulf of Bothnia was + not frozen over, he was obliged to walk round the whole of it, by + Tornæo. At Petersburgh he staid till the 21st of May, when he + obtained leave to accompany a convoy of military stores, which at + that time was proceeding to Mr. Bilious, who had been his shipmate + in Captain Cook's voyage, and who was then employed by the Empress + of Russia, for the purpose of making discoveries in Siberia, and + on the north-west coast of America. With this convoy Mr. Lediard + set out, and in August reached the city of Irkutsk in Siberia. + After that, he proceeded to the town of Yakutsk, where he met with + Captain Billings. From this place he went back to Irkutsh, to + spend a part of the winter; proposing, in the spring, to return to + Yakutsk, in order to proceed in the summer to Okotsk. + + Hitherto, Mr. Lediard had gone on prosperously, and flattered + himself with the hopes of succeeding in his undertaking. But, in + January last (1788), in consequence of an express from the + empress, he was arrested, and, to half an hour's time, carried + away, under the guard of two soldiers and an officer, in a post + sledge, for Moscow, without his clothes, money, and papers. From + Moscow he was conveyed to the city of Moialoff in White Russia, + and thence to the town of Tolochin in Poland. There he was + informed, that her majesty's orders were, that he was never to + enter her dominions again without her express permission. During + all this time, he suffered the greatest hardships, from sickness, + fatigue, and want of rest; so that he was almost reduced to a + skeleton. From Tolochin he made his way to Konigsberg; having had, + as he says, a miserable journey, in a miserable country, in a + miserable season, in miserable health, and a miserable purse; and + disappointed of his darling enterprise. Mr. Lediard informs Sir + Joseph Banks, to whom he sent, from time to time, a full account + of his transactions, that, though he had been retarded in his + pursuits by malice, he had not travelled totally in vain; his + observations to Asia being, perhaps, as complete as a longer visit + would have rendered them. From his last letter it appears, that he + proposed to return, as speedily as possible, from Konigsberg to + England.] + +When, on the 21st, Mr. Ismyloff took his final leave of the English +navigators, our commander intrusted to his care a letter to the lords +commissioners of the admiralty, in which was enclosed a chart of all +the northern coasts the captain had visited. It was expected, that +there would be an opportunity of sending this letter, in the ensuing +spring, to Kamtschatka or Okotsk, and that it would reach Petersburgh +during the following winter. Mr. Ismyloff, who faithfully and +successfully discharged the trust our commander had reposed in him, +seemed to possess abilities, that might entitle him to a higher +station in life than that which he occupied. He had a considerable +knowledge of astronomy, and was acquainted with the most useful +branches of the mathematics. Captain Cook made him a present of an +Hadley's octant; and, though it was probably the first he had ever +seen, he understood, in a very short time, the various uses to which +that instrument can be applied. + +While the ships lay at Oonalashka, our voyagers did not neglect to +make a diligent inquiry into the productions of the island, and the +general manners of the inhabitants. On these, as being in a great +measure similar to objects which have already been noticed, it is not +necessary to enlarge. There is one circumstance, however, so +honourable to the natives, that it must not be omitted. They are, to +all appearance, the most peaceable and inoffensive people our +commander had ever met with; and, with respect to honesty, they might +serve as a pattern to countries that are in the highest state of +civilization. A doubt is suggested, whether this disposition may not +have been the consequence of their present subjection to the Russians. +From the affinity which was found to subsist between the dialects of +the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of the inhabitants of +Norton's Sound and Oonalashka, there is strong reason to believe, that +all these nations are of the same extraction; and, if that be the +case, the existence of a northern communication of some kind, by sea, +between the west of America and the east side, through Baffin's Bay, +can scarcely be doubted; which communication, nevertheless, may +effectually be shut up against ships, by ice and other impediments. + +While the vessels lay in Samganoodha harbour, Captain Cook exerted his +usual diligence in making nautical and astronomical observations. All +things, on the 26th, having been gotten ready for his departure, he +put to sea on that day, and sailed for the Sandwich Islands; it being +his intention to spend a few months there, and then to direct his +course to Kamtschatka, so as to endeavour to reach that country by the +middle of May, in the ensuing summer. + +On the 26th of November, when the ships had proceeded southward till +they came to the latitude of 20° 55', land was discovered, which +proved to be an island of the name of Mowee, that had not hitherto +been visited. It is one of the group of the Sandwich Islands. As it +was of the last importance to procure a supply of provisions at these +islands, and experience had taught our commander, that he could have +had no chance of succeeding in his object, if it were left to every +man's discretion to traffic for what he pleased, and in what manner he +pleased; the captain published an order, prohibiting all persons from +trading, excepting such as should be appointed by himself and Captain +Clerke. Even these persons were enjoined to trade only for provisions +and refreshments. While our navigators lay off Mowee, which was for +some days, a friendly intercourse was maintained with the inhabitants. + +Another island was discovered on the 30th, which is called by the +natives Owhyhee. As it appeared to be of greater extent and importance +than any of the islands which had yet been visited in this part of the +world, Captain Cook spent nearly seven weeks in sailing round, and +examining its coast. Whilst he was thus employed, the inhabitants came +off, from time to time, in their canoes, and readily engaged in +traffic with our voyagers. In the conduct of this business, the +behaviour of the islanders was more entirely free from suspicion and +reserve than our commander had ever yet experienced. Noteven the +people of Otaheite itself, with whom he had been so intimately and +repeatedly connected, had displayed such a full confidence in the +integrity and good treatment of the English. + +Among the articles procured from the natives, was a quantity of +sugarcane. Upon a trial, Captain Cook found that a strong decoction of +it produced a very palatable beer; on which account, he ordered some +more to be brewed, for general use. When, however, the barrel was +broached, not one of the crew would taste of the liquor. As the +captain had no motive in preparing this beverage, but that of sparing +the rum and other spirits for a colder climate, he did not exert +either authority or persuasion to prevail upon the men to change their +resolution; for he knew, that there was no danger of the scurvy, so +long as a plentiful supply could be obtained of different vegetables. +Nevertheless, that he might not be disappointed in his views, he gave +orders that no grog should be served in the ships; and he himself, +together with the officers, continued to make use of the sugarcane +beer, which was much improved by the addition of a few hops, that +chanced to be still on board. There could be no reasonable doubt of +its being a very wholesome liquor; and yet the inconsiderate crew +alleged that it would be injurious to their health. No people are more +averse to every kind of innovation than seamen, and their prejudices +are extremely difficult to be conquered. It was, however, by acting +contrary to these prejudices, and by various deviations from +established practice, that Captain Cook had been enabled to preserve +his men from that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which, perhaps, has +destroyed more of our sailors, in their peaceful voyages, than have +fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. + +As the captain was pursuing his examination of the coast of Owhyhee, +it having fallen calm at one o'clock in the morning of the 19th of +December, the Resolution was left to the mercy of a north-easterly +swell, which impelled her fast towards the land; so that, long before +daybreak, lights were seen from the land, which was not more than a +league distant. The night, at the same time, was dark, with thunder, +lightning and rain. As soon as it was light, a dreadful surf, within +half a league of the vessel, appeared breaking from the shore; and it +was evident, that our navigators had been in the most perilous +situation: nor was the danger yet over; for to consequence of the +veering of the wind, they were but just able to keep their distance +from the coast. What rendered their situation more alarming was, that +a rope of the main topsail having given way, this occasioned the sail +to be rent in two. In the same manner, the two topgallant sails gave +way, though they were not half worn out. However, a favourable +opportunity was seized of getting others to the yards; and the +Resolution again proceeded in safety. + +On the 16th of January, 1779, canoes arrived in such numbers from all +parts, that there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, +most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs, and other +productions of the islands. It was a satisfactory proof of their +friendly intentions, that there was not a single person amongst them +who had with him a weapon of any kind; trade and curiosity alone +appearing to be the motives which actuated their conduct. Among such +multitudes, however, as, at times, were on board, it will not be +deemed surprising, that some should betray a thievish disposition. One +of them took out of the Resolution a boat's rudder; and made off with +it so speedily, that it could not be recovered. Captain Cook judged +this to be a favourable opportunity of shewing to these people the use +of fire-arms; and accordingly he ordered two or three muskets, and as +many four-pounders, to be fired over the canoe, which carried off the +rudder. It not being intended that any of the shot should take effect, +the surrounding multitude of the natives seemed to be more surprised +than terrified. + +Mr. Bligh, having been sent to examine a neighbouring bay, reported, +on his return, that it had good anchorage and fresh water, and that it +was in an accessible situation. Into this bay, therefore the captain +resolved to carry the ships, in order to refit, and to obtain every +refreshment which the place could afford. As night approached, the +greater part of the Indians retired on shore; but numbers of them +requested permission to sleep on board; in which request, curiosity +(at least with regard to several of them) was not their sole motive; +for it was found, the next morning, that various things were missing; +on which account our commander determined not to entertain so many +persons on board another night. + +On the 17th, the ships came to an anchor in the bay which had been +examined by Mr. Bligh, and which is called Karakakooa by the +inhabitants. At this time, the vessels continued to be much crowded +with natives and were surrounded with a multitude of canoes. Captain +Cook, in the whole course of his voyages, had never seen so numerous a +body of people assembled in one place. For besides those who had come +off to the English in their canoes, all the shore of the bay was +covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the +ships like shoals of fish. Our navigators could not avoid being +greatly impressed with the singularity of this scene; and perhaps +there were few on board that now lamented the want of success which +had attended the endeavours of getting homeward, the last summer, by a +northern passage. 'To this disappointment,' says the captain, 'we owed +our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to +enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though the last, seemed, in +many respects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by +Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean.' + +Such is the sentence that concludes our commander's journal: and the +satisfaction with which this sentence appears to have been written, +cannot fail of striking the mind of every reader. Little did Captain +Cook then imagine, that a discovery which promised to add no small +honour to his name, and to be productive of very agreeable +consequences, should be so fatal in the result. Little did he think, +that the island of Owhyhee was destined to be the last scene of his +exploits, and the cause of his destruction. + +The reception which the captain met with from the natives, on his +proceeding to anchor in Karakakooa Bay, was flattering in the highest +degree. They came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and +expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and by exhibiting a +variety of wild and extravagant gestures. Pareea, a young man of great +authority, and Kaneena, another chief, had already attached themselves +to our commander, and were very useful in keeping their countrymen +from being troublesome. + +During the long cruise of our navigators off the island of Owhyhee, +the inhabitants had almost universally behaved with great fairness and +honesty in their dealings, and had not shewn the slightest propensity +to theft: and this was a fact the more extraordinary, as those with +whom our people had hitherto maintained any intercourse, were of the +lowest rank, being either servants or fishermen. But, after the +arrival of the Resolution and Discovery in Karakakooa Bay, the case +was greatly altered. The immense crowd of islanders that blocked up +every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunities of +pilfering without risk of detection; but held out, even if they should +be detected, a prospect of escaping with impunity, from the +superiority of their numbers to that of the English. Another +circumstance, to which the alteration in the conduct of the natives +might be ascribed, arose from the presence and encouragement of their +chiefs, into whose possession the booty might be traced, and whom +there was reason to suspect of being the instigators of the +depredations that were committed. + +Soon after the Resolution had gotten into her station, Pareea and +Kaneena brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who was +represented as being a priest, and as having, in his early youth, been +a distinguished warrior. In the evening, Captain Cook attended by Mr. +Bayley and Mr. King, accompanied Koah on shore. Upon this occasion, +the captain was received with very peculiar and extraordinary +ceremonies; with ceremonies that indicated the highest respect on the +part of the natives, and which, indeed, seemed to fall little short of +adoration. + +One of the principal objects that engaged our commander's attention at +Owhyhee, was the salting of hogs for sea-store; in which his success +was far more complete than had been attained in any former attempt of +the same kind. It doth not appear, that experiments relative to this +subject had been made by the navigators of any nation before Captain +Cook. His first trials were in 1774, during his second voyage round +the world; when his success, though very imperfect, was nevertheless, +sufficient to encourage his farther efforts, in a matter of so much +importance. As the present voyage was likely to be protracted a year +beyond the time for which the ships were victualled, he was under a +necessity of providing, by some such method, for the subsistence of +the crews, or of relinquishing the prosecution of his discoveries. +Accordingly, he lost no opportunity of renewing his attempts; and the +event answered his most sanguine expectations. Captain King brought +home with him some of the pork, which was pickled at Owhyhee in +January, 1779; and, upon its being tasted by several persons in +England about Christmas, 1780, it was found to be perfectly sound and +wholesome. It seemed to be destined, that in every instance Captain +Cook should excel all who had gone before him, in promoting the +purposes of navigation. + +On the 26th, the captain had his first interview with Terreeoboo, the +king of the island. The meeting was conducted with a variety of +ceremonies, among which, the custom of making an exchange of names, +which, amongst all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean is the strongest +pledge of friendship, was observed. When the formalities of the +interview were over, our commander carried Terreeoboo, and as many +chiefs as the pinnace could hold, on board the Resolution. They were +received, on this occasion, with every mark of respect that could be +shown them; and, in return for a beautiful and splendid feathered +cloak which the king had bestowed on Captain Cook, the captain put a +linen shirt on his majesty, and girt his own hanger round him. + +In the progress of the intercourse which was maintained between our +voyagers and the natives, the quiet and inoffensive behaviour of the +latter took away every apprehension of danger; so that the English +trusted themselves among them at all times, and in all situations. The +instances of kindness and civility which our people experienced from +them were so numerous, that they could not easily be recounted. A +society of priests, in particular, displayed a generosity and +munificence, of which no equal example had hitherto been given: for +they furnished a constant supply of hogs and vegetables to our +navigators, without ever demanding a return, or even hinting at it in +the most distant manner. All this was said to be done at the expense +of a great man among them, who was at the head of their body, whose +name was Kaoo, and who on other occasions manifested his attachment to +the English. There was not always so much reason to be satisfied with +the conduct of the warrior chiefs, or earees, as with that of the +priests. Indeed, the satisfaction that was derived from the usual +gentleness and hospitality of the inhabitants, was frequently +interrupted by the propensity of many of them to stealing; and this +circumstance was the more distressing, as it sometimes obliged our +commander and the other officers to have recourse to acts of severity, +which they would willingly have avoided, if the necessity of the case +had not absolutely called for them. + +Though the kind and liberal behaviour of the natives continued without +remission, Terreeoboo, and his chiefs, began at length to be very +inquisitive about the time in which our voyagers were to take their +departure. Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it is considered, +that, during sixteen days in which the English had been in the bay of +Karakakooa, they had made an enormous consumption of hogs and +vegetables. It did not appear, however, that Terreeoboo had any other +in view in his inquiries, than a desire of making sufficient +preparation for dismissing our navigators with presents, suitable to +the respect and kindness towards them which he had always displayed. +For, on his being informed, that they were to leave the island in a +day or two, it was observed, that a kind of proclamation was +immediately made through the villages, inquiring the people to bring +in their hogs and vegetables, for the king to present to the +orono,[13] on his quitting the country. Accordingly, on the 3rd of +February, being the day preceding the time which had been fixed for +the sailing of the ships, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and Mr. King +to attend him to the place where Kaoo resided. On their arrival, they +found the ground covered with parcels of cloth, at a small distance +from which lay an immense quantity of vegetables; and near them was a +large herd of hogs. At the close of the visit, the greater part of the +cloth, and the whole of the hogs and vegetables, were given by +Terreeoboo to the captain and Mr. King; who were astonished at the +value and magnificence of the present; for it far exceeded every thing +of the kind which they had seen either at the Friendly or Society +Islands. Mr. King had in so high a degree conciliated the affections, +and gained the esteem, of the inhabitants of Owhyhee, that, with +offers of the most flattering nature, he was strongly solicited to +remain in the country. Terreeoboo and Kaoo waited upon Captain Cook, +whose son they supposed Mr. King to be, with a formal request, that he +might be left behind. To avoid giving a positive refusal to an offer +which was so kindly intended, the captain told them that he could not +part with Mr. King at that time, but that, on his return to the island +in the next year, he would endeavour to settle the matter to their +satisfaction. + + [Footnote 13: Orono was a title of high honour, which had been + bestowed on Captain Cook] + +Early on the 4th, the ships sailed out of Karakakooa Bay, being +followed by a large number of canoes. It was our commander's design, +before he visited the other islands, to finish the survey of Owhyhee, +in hopes of meeting with a road better sheltered than the bay he had +just left. In case of not succeeding in this respect, he purposed to +take a view of the south-east part of Mowee, where he was informed +that he should find an excellent harbour. + +The circumstances which brought Captain Cook back to Karakakooa Bay, +and the unhappy consequences that followed, I shall give from Mr. +Samwell's narrative of his death. This narrative was, in the most +obliging manner, communicated to me in manuscript, by Mr. Samwell, +with entire liberty to make such use of it as I should judge proper. +Upon a perusal of it, its importance struck me in so strong a light, +that I wished to have it separately laid before the world. +Accordingly, with Mr. Samwell's concurrence, I procured its +publication, that, if any objections should be made to it, I might be +able to notice them in my own work. As the narrative hath continued +for more than two years unimpeached and uncontradicted, I esteem +myself fully authorized to insert it in this place, as containing the +most complete and authentic account of the melancholy catastrophe, +which, at Owhyhee, befell our illustrious navigator and commander. + +'On the 6th, we were overtaken by a gale of wind; and the next night, +the Resolution had the misfortune of springing the head of her +foremast, in such a dangerous manner, that Captain Cook was obliged to +return to Keragegooah,[14] in order to have it repaired; for we could +find no other convenient harbour on the island. The same gale had +occasioned much distress among some canoes, that had paid us a visit +from the shore. One of them, with two men and a child on board, was +picked up by the Resolution, and rescued from destruction; the men, +having toiled hard all night, in attempting to reach the land, were so +much exhausted, that they could hardly mount the ship's side. When +they got upon the quarter-deck, they burst into tears, and seemed much +affected with the dangerous situation from which they had escaped; but +the little child appeared lively and cheerful. One of the Resolution's +boats was also so fortunate as to save a man and two women, whose +canoe had been upset by the violence of the waves. They were brought +on board, and, with the others, partook of the kindness and humanity +of Captain Cook. + + [Footnote 14: It is proper to take notice, that Mr. Samwell spells + the names of several persons and places differently from what is + dune in the history of the voyage. + For instance, Karakakooa + he calls Ke, rag, e, goo, all, + Terreeoboo Kariopoo, + Kowrowa Kavaroah, + Kaneecab areea Kaneekapo, herei, + Maiha maiha Ka, mea, mea.] + +'On the morning of Wednesday, the 10th, we were within a few miles of +the harbour; and were soon joined by several canoes, in which appeared +many of our old acquaintances, who seemed to have come to welcome us +back. Among them was Coo, aha, a priest: he had brought a small pig, +and some cocoa-nuts in his hand, which, after having chanted a few +sentences, he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us, and +hastened on board the Resolution, to perform the same friendly +ceremonies before Captain Cook. Having but light winds all that day, +we could not gain the harbour. In the afternoon, a chief of the first +rank, and nearly related to Kariopoo, paid us a visit on board the +Discovery. His name was Ka, mea, mea: he was dressed in a very rich +feathered cloak, which he seemed to have brought for sale, but would +part with it for nothing except iron daggers. These the chiefs, some +time before our departure, had preferred to every other article; for, +having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and other tools, they +began to collect a store of warlike instruments. Kameamea procured +nine daggers for his cloak; and, being pleased with his reception, he +and his attendants slept on board that night. + +'In the morning of the 11th of February, the ships anchored again in +Keragegooah Bay, and preparation was immediately made for landing the +Resolution's foremast. We were visited but by few of the Indians, +because there were but few in the bay. On our departure, those +belonging to other parts had repaired to their several habitations, +and were again to collect from various quarters, before we could +expect to be surrounded by such multitudes as we had once seen in that +harbour. In the afternoon, I walked about a mile into the country, to +visit an Indian friend, who had, a few days before, come near twenty +miles, in a small canoe, to see me, while the ship lay becalmed. As +the canoe had not left us long before a gale of wind came on. I was +alarmed for the consequence: however, I had the pleasure to find, that +my friend had escaped unhurt, though not without some difficulties. I +take notice of this short excursion, merely because it afforded me an +opportunity of observing, that there appeared no change in the +disposition or behaviour of the inhabitants. I saw nothing that could +induce me to think, that they were displeased with our return, or +jealous of the intention of our second visit. On the contrary, that +abundant good nature, which had always characterized them, seemed +still to glow in every bosom, and to animate every countenance. + +'The next day, February the 12th, the ships were put under a taboo, by +the chiefs: a solemnity, it seems, that was requisite to be observed, +before Kariopoo, the king, paid his first visit to Captain Cook, after +his return. He waited upon him the same day, on board the Resolution, +attended by a large train, some of which bore the presents designed +for Captain Cook; who received him in his usual friendly manner, and +gave him several articles in return. This amicable ceremony being +settled, the taboo was disolved; matters went on in the usual train; +and the next day, February the 13th we were visited by the natives in +great numbers: the Resolution's mast was landed, and the astronomical +observatories erected on their former situation. I landed, with +another gentleman, at the town of Kavaroah, where we found a great +number of canoes, just arrived from different parts of the island, and +the Indians busy in constructing temporary huts on the beach, for +their residence during the stay of the ships. On our return on board +the Discovery, we learned, that an Indian had been detected in +stealing the armourer's tongs from the forge, for which he received a +pretty severe flogging, and was sent out of the ship. Notwithstanding +the example made of this man, in the afternoon another had the +audacity to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same place, with +which he jumped overboard and swam for the shore. The master and a +midshipman were instantly dispatched after him, in the small cutter. +The Indian, seeing himself pursued, made for a canoe; his countrymen +took him on board, and paddled as swift as they could towards the +shore; we fired several muskets at them, but to no effect, for they +soon got out of the reach of our shot. Pareah, one of the chiefs, who +was at that time on board the Discovery, understanding what had +happened, immediately went ashore, promising to bring back the stolen +goods. Our boat was so far distanced, in chasing the canoe which had +taken the thief on board, that he had time to make his escape into the +country. Captain Cook, who was then ashore, endeavoured to intercept +his landing; but it seems, that he was led out of the way by some of +the natives, who had officiously intruded themselves as guides. As the +master was approaching near the landing place, he was met by some of +the Indians in a canoe: they had brought back the tongs and chisel, +together with another article, that we had not missed, which happened +to be the lid of the water cask. Having recovered these things, he was +returning on board, when he was met by the Resolution's pinnace, with +five men in her, who, without any orders, had come from the +observatories to his assistance. Being thus unexpectedly reinforced he +thought himself strong enough to insist upon having the thief, or the +canoe which took him in, delivered up as reprisals. With that view he +turned back; and having found the canoe on the beach, he was preparing +to launch it into the water, when Pareah made his appearance, and +insisted upon his not taking it away, as it was his property. The +officer not regarding him, the chief seized upon him, pinioned his +arms behind, and held him by the hair of his head; on which one of the +sailors struck him with an oar; Pareah instantly quitted the officer, +snatched the oar out of the man's hand, and snapped it in two across +his knee. At length the multitude began to attack our people with +stones. They made some resistance, but were soon overpowered, and +obliged to swim for safety to the small cutter, which lay farther out +than the pinnace. The officers, not being expert swimmers, retreated +to a small rock in the water, where they were closely pursued by the +Indians. One man darted a broken oar at the master; but his foot +slipping at the time, he missed him, which fortunately saved that +officer's life. At last, Pareah interfered, and put an end to their +violence. The gentlemen, knowing that his presence was their only +defence against the fury of the natives, entreated him to stay with +them, till they could get off in the boats; but that he refused, and +left them. The master went to seek assistance from the party at the +observatories; but the midshipman chose to remain in the pinnace. He +was very rudely treated by the mob, who plundered the boat of every +thing that was loose on board, and then began to knock her to pieces, +for the sake of the iron work; but Pareah fortunately returned in time +to prevent her destruction. He had met the other gentleman on his way +to the observatories, and suspecting his errand, had forced him to +return. He dispersed the crowd again, and desired the gentlemen to +return on board; they represented, that all the oars had been taken +out of the boat on which he brought some of them back, and the +gentlemen were glad to get off without farther molestation. They had +not proceeded far, before they were overtaken by Pareah, in a canoe: +he delivered the midshipman's cap, which had been taken from him in +the scuffle, joined noses with them, in token of reconciliation, and +was anxious to know, if Captain Cook would kill him for what had +happened. They assured him of the contrary, and made signs of +friendship to him in return. He then left them, and paddled over to +the town of Kavaroah, and that was the last time we ever saw him. +Captain Cook returned on board soon after, much displeased with the +whole of this disagreeable business; and the same night sent a +lieutenant on board the Discovery to learn the particulars of it, as +it had originated in that ship. + +'It was remarkable, that in the midst of the hurry and confusion +attending this affair, Kanynah (a chief who had always been on terms +particularly friendly with us) came from the spot where it happened, +with a hog to sell on board the Discovery: it was of an extraordinary +large size, and he demanded for it a pahowa, or dagger of an unusual +length. He pointed to us, that it must be as long as his arm. Captain +Clerke not having one of that length, told him he would get, one made +for him by the morning; with which being satisfied, he left the hog, +and went ashore without making any stay with us. It will not be +altogether foreign to the subject, to mention a circumstance, that +happened to-day on board the Resolution. An Indian chief asked Captain +Cook, at his table, if he was a Tata Toa; which means a fighting man, +or a soldier. Being answered in the affirmative, he desired to see his +wounds. Captain Cook held out his right hand, which had a scar upon +it, dividing the thumb from the finger, the whole length of the +metacarpal bones. The Indian, being thus convinced of his being a Toa, +put the same question to another gentleman present, but he happened to +have none of those distinguishing marks; the chief then said, that he +himself was a Toa, and shewed the scars of some wounds he had received +in battle. Those who were on duty at the observatories, were +disturbed, during the night, with shrill and melancholy sounds, +issuing from the adjacent villages, which they took to be the +lamentations of the women. Perhaps the quarrel between us might have +filled their minds with apprehension for the safety of their husbands; +but, be that as it may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with +unusual awe and terror. + +'To widen the breach between us, some of the Indians, in the night, +took away the Discovery's large cutter, which lay swamped at the buoy +of one of her anchors: they had carried her off so quietly that we did +not miss her till the morning, Sunday, February the 14th. Captain +Clerke lost no time in waiting upon Captain Cook to acquaint him with +the accident: he returned on board, with orders for the launch and +small cutter, to go, under the command of the second lieutenant, and +lie off the east point of the bay, in order to intercept all canoes +that might attempt to get out; and, if he found it necessary, to fire +upon them. At the same time, the third lieutenant of the Resolution, +with the launch and small cutter, was sent on the same service, to the +opposite point of the bay; and the master was dispatched in the large +cutter, in pursuit of a double canoe, already under sail, making the +best of her way out of the harbour. He soon came up with her, and by +firing a few muskets, drove her on shore, and the Indians left her: +this happened to be the canoe of Omea, a man who bore the title of +Orono. He was on board himself, and it would have been fortunate, if +our people had secured him, for his person was held as sacred as that +of the king. During this time, Captain Cook was preparing to go ashore +himself, at the town of Kavaroah, in order to secure the person of +Kariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw himself to another +part of the island, out of our reach. This appeared the most effectual +step that could be taken, on the present occasion, for the recovery of +the boat. It was the measure he had invariably pursued, in similar +cases, at other islands in these seas, and it had always been attended +with the desired success: in fact, it would be difficult to point out +any other mode of proceeding on these emergencies, likely to attain +the object in view; we had reason to suppose, that the king and his +attendants had fled when the alarm was first given: in that case, it +was Captain Cook's intention to secure the large canoes which were +hauled upon the beach. He left the ship about seven o'clock, attended +by the lieutenant of marines, a serjeant, corporal, and seven private +men: the pinnace's crew were also armed, and under the command of Mr. +Roberts. As they rowed towards the shore, Captain Cook ordered the +launch to leave her station at the west point of the bay, in order to +assist his own boat. This is a circumstance worthy of notice; for it +clearly shews, that he was not unapprehensive of meeting with +resistance from the natives, or unmindful of the necessary preparation +for the safety of himself and his people. I will venture to say, that, +from the appearance of things just at that time, there was not one, +beside himself, who judged that such precaution was absolutely +requisite: so little did his conduct, on the occasion, bear the marks +of rashness, or a precipitate self-confidence! He landed, with the +marines, at the upper end of the town of Kavaroah: the Indians +immediately flocked round, as usual, and shewed him the customary +marks of respect, by prostrating themselves before him.--There were no +signs of hostilities, or much alarm among them. Captain Cook, however, +did not seem willing to trust to appearances; but was particularly +attentive to the disposition of the marines, and to have them kept +clear of the crowd. He first inquired for the king's sons, two youths +who were much attached to him, and generally his companions on board. +Messengers being sent for them, they soon came to him, and informing +him, that their father was asleep, at a house not far from them, he +accompanied them thither, and took the marines along with them. As he +passed along, the natives every where prostrated themselves before +him, and seemed to have lost no part of that respect they had always +shown to his person. He was joined by several chiefs, among whom was +Kanynah, and his brother Koohowrooah. They kept the crowd in order, +according to their usual custom; and, being ignorant of his intention +in coming on shore, frequently asked him, if he wanted any hogs, or +other provisions: he told them that he did not, and that his business +was to see the king. When he arrived at the house, he ordered some of +the Indians to go in, and inform Kariopoo, that he waited without to +speak with him. They came out two or three times, and instead of +returning any answer from the king, presented some pieces of red cloth +to him, which made Captain Cook suspect that he was not in the house; +he therefore desired the lieutenant of marines to go in. The +lieutenant found the old man just awaked from sleep and seemingly +alarmed at the message; but he came out without hesitation. Captain +Cook took him by the hand, and in a friendly manner asked him to go on +board, to which he very readily consented. Thus far matters appeared +in a favourable train, and the natives did not seem much alarmed or +apprehensive of hostility on our side; at which Captain Cook expressed +himself a little surprised, saying, that as the inhabitants of that +town appeared innocent of stealing the cutter, he should not molest +them, but that he must get the king on board. Kariopoo sat down before +his door, and was surrounded by a great crowd: Kanynah and his brother +were both very active in keeping order among them. In a little time, +however, the Indians were observed arming themselves with long spears, +clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick mats, which they use as +armour. This hostile appearance increased, and became more alarming, +on the arrival of two men in a canoe from the opposite side of the +bay, with the news of a chief, called Kareemoo, having been killed by +one of the Discovery's boats. In their passage across, they had also +delivered this account to each of the ships. Upon that information, +the women, who were sitting upon the beach at their breakfasts, and +conversing familiarly with our people in the boats, retired, and a +confused murmur spread through the crowd. An old priest came to +Captain Cook, with a cocoa-nut in his hand, which he held out to him +as a present, at the same time singing very loud. He was often desired +to be silent, but in vain: he continued importunate and troublesome, +and there was no such thing as getting rid of him or his noise: it +seemed as if he meant to divert their attention from his countrymen, +who were growing more tumultuous, and arming themselves in every +quarter. Captain Cook, being at the same time surrounded by a great +crowd, thought his situation rather hazardous: he therefore ordered +the lieutenant of marines to march his small party to the waterside, +where the boats lay within a few yards of the shore: the Indians +readily made a lane for them to pass, and did not offer to interrupt +them. The distance they had to go might be about fifty or sixty yards; +Captain Cook followed, having hold of Kariopoo's hand, who accompanied +him very willingly: he was attended by his wife, two sons, and several +chiefs. The troublesome old priest followed, making the same savage +noise. Keowa, the youngest son, went directly into the pinnace, +expecting his father to follow: but just as he arrived at the +waterside, his wife threw her arms about his neck, and, with the +assistance of two chiefs, forced him to sit down by the side of a +double canoe. Captain Cook expostulated with them, but to no purpose: +they would not suffer the king to proceed, telling him, that he would +be put to death if he went on board the ship. Kariopoo, whose conduct +seemed entirely resigned to the will of others, hung down his head, +and appeared much distressed. + +'While the king was in this situation, a chief, well known to us, of +the name of Coho, was observed lurking near, with an iron dagger, +partly concealed under his cloak, seemingly with the intention of +stabbing Captain Cook, or the lieutenant of marines. The latter +proposed to fire at him, but Captain Cook would not permit it. Coho +closing upon them, obliged the officer to strike him with his piece, +which made him retire. Another Indian laid hold of the sergeant's +musket, and endeavoured to wrench it from him, but was prevented by +the lieutenant's making a blow at him. Captain Cook, seeing the tumult +increase, and the Indians growing more daring and resolute, observed, +that if he were to take the king off by force, he could not do it +without sacrificing the lives of many of his people. He then paused a +little, and was on the point of giving his orders to re-embark, when a +man threw a stone at him; which he returned with a discharge of small +shot (with which one barrel of his double piece was loaded). The man, +having a thick mat before him, received little or no hurt: he +brandished his spear, and threatened to dart it at Captain Cook, who +being still unwilling to take away his life, instead of firing with +ball, knocked him down with his musket. He expostulated strongly with +the most forward of the crowd, upon their turbulent behaviour. He had +given up all thoughts of getting the king on board, as it appeared +impracticable; and his care was then only to act on the defensive, and +to secure a safe embarkation for his small party, which was closely +pressed by a body of several thousand people. Keowa, the king's son, +who was in the pinnace, being alarmed on hearing the first firing, +was, at his own entreaty, put on shore again; for even at that time +Mr. Roberts, who commanded her, did not apprehend that Captain Cook's +person was in any danger: otherwise he would have detained the prince, +which, no doubt, would have been a great check on the Indians. One man +was observed, behind a double canoe, in the action of darting his +spear at Captain Cook, who was forced to fire at him in his own +defence, but happened to kill another close to him, equally forward in +the tumult: the serjeant observing that he had missed the man he aimed +at, received orders to fire at him, which he did, and killed him. By +this time, the impetuosity of the Indians was somewhat repressed; they +fell back in a body, and seemed staggered; but being pushed on by +those behind, they returned to the charge, and poured a volley of +stones among the marines, who, without waiting for orders, returned it +with a general discharge of musketry, which was instantly followed by +a fire from the boats. At this Captain Cook was heard to express his +astonishment: he waved his hand to the boats, called to them to cease +firing, and to come nearer in to receive the marines. Mr. Roberts +immediately brought the pinnace as close to the shore as he could, +without grounding, notwithstanding the showers of stones that fell +among the people: but ---- the lieutenant, who commanded in the +launch, instead of pulling in to the assistance of Captain Cook, +withdrew his boat farther off, at the moment that every thing seems to +have depended upon the timely exertions of those in the boats. By his +own account, he mistook the signal, but be that as it may, this +circumstance appears to me, to have decided the fatal turn of the +affair, and to have removed every chance which remained with Captain +Cook, of escaping with his life. The business of saving the marines +out of the water, in consequence of that, fell altogether upon the +pinnace; which thereby became so much crowded, that the crew were, in +a great measure, prevented from using their fire-arms, or giving what +assistance they otherwise might have done, to Captain Cook; so that he +seems, at the most critical point of time, to have wanted the +assistance of both boats, owing to the removal of the launch. For, +notwithstanding that they kept up a fire on the crowd, from the +situation to which they removed in that boat, the fatal confusion +which ensued on her being withdrawn, to say the least of it, must have +prevented the full effect that the prompt co-operation of the two +boats, according to Captain Cook's orders, must have had, towards the +preservation of himself and his people.[15] At that time, it was to +the boats alone that Captain Cook had to look for his safety; for, +when the marines had fired, the Indians rushed among them, and forced +them into the water, where four of them were killed: their lieutenant +was wounded, but fortunately escaped, and was taken up by the pinnace. +Captain Cook was then the only one remaining on the rock: as observed +making for the pinnace, holding his left hand against the back of his +head, to guard it from the stones, and carrying his musket under the +other arm. An Indian was seen following him, but with caution and +timidity; for he stopped once or twice, as if undetermined to proceed. +At last he advanced upon him unawares, and with a large club, or +common stake, gave him a blow on the back of the head, and then +precipitately retreated. The stroke seemed to have stunned Captain +Cook: he staggered a few paces, then fell on his hand and one knee, +and dropped his musket. As he was rising, and before he could recover +his feet, another Indian stabbed him in the back of the neck with an +iron dagger. He then fell into a bit of water about knee deep, where +others crowded upon him, and endeavoured to keep him under: but +struggling very strongly with them, he got his head up, and casting +his look towards the pinnace, seemed to solicit assistance. Though the +boat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet from the +crowded and confused state of the crew, it seems, it was not in their +power to save him. The Indians got him under again, but in deeper +water: he was, however, able to get his head up once more, and being +almost spent in the struggle, he naturally turned to the rock, and was +endeavouring to support himself by it, when a savage gave him a blow +with a club, and he was seen alive no more. They hauled him up +lifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to take a savage pleasure in +using every barbarity to his dead body, snatching the daggers out of +each other's hands, to have the horrid satisfaction of piercing the +fallen victim of their barbarous rage. + + [Footnote 15: I have been informed on the best authority, that in + the opinion of Captain Philips, who commanded the marines, and + whose judgment must be of the greatest weight, it is extremely + doubtful whether any thing could successfully have been done to + preserve the life of Captain Cook, even if no mistake had been + committed on the part of the launch.] + +'I need make no reflection on the great loss we suffered on this +occasion, or attempt to describe what we felt. It is enough, to say, +that no man was ever more beloved or admired: and it is truly painful +to reflect that he seems to have fallen a sacrifice merely for want of +being properly supported; a fate, singularly to be lamented, as having +fallen to his lot, who had ever been conspicuous for his care of those +under his command, and who seemed, to the last, to pay as much +attention to their preservation, as to that of his own life. + +'If any thing could have added to the shame and indignation +universally felt on this occasion, it was to find, that his remains +had been deserted, and left exposed on the beach, although they might +have been brought off. It appears, from the information of four or +five midshipmen, who arrived on the spot at the conclusion of the +fatal business, that the beach was then almost entirely deserted by +the Indians, who at length had given way to the fire of the boats, and +dispersed through the town: so that there seemed no great obstacle to +prevent the recovery of Captain Cook's body; but the lieutenant +returned on board without making the attempt. It is unnecessary to +dwell longer on this painful subject, and to relate the complaints and +censures that fell on the conduct of the lieutenant. It will be +sufficient to observe that they were so loud as to oblige Captain +Clerke publicly to notice them, and to take the depositions of his +accusers down in writing. The captains bad state of health and +approaching dissolution, it is supposed, induced him to destroy these +papers a short time before his death. + +'It is a painful task to be obliged to notice circumstances which seem +to reflect upon the character of any man. A strict regard to truth, +however, compelled me to the insertion of these facts, which I have +offered merely as facts, without presuming to connect with them any +comment of my own: esteeming it the part of a faithful historian, "to +extenuate nothing, nor set down aught in malice." + +'The fatal accident happened at eight o'clock in the morning, about an +hour after Captain Cook landed. It did not seem that the king, or his +sons, were witnesses to it: but it is supposed, that they withdrew in +the midst of the tumult. The principal actors were the other chiefs, +many of them the king's relations and attendants; the man who stabbed +him with the dagger was called Nooah. I happened to be the only one +who recollected his person, from having on a former occasion mentioned +his name in the journal I kept. I was induced to take particular +notice of him, more from his personal appearance than any other +consideration, though he was of high rank, and a near relation of the +king: he was stout and tall, with a fierce look and demeanour, and one +who united in his figure the two qualities of strength and agility, in +a greater degree than ever I remembered to have seen before in any +other man. His age might be about thirty, and by the white scurf on +his skin, and his sore eyes, he appeared to be a hard drinker of kava. +He was a constant companion of the king, with whom I first saw him, +when he paid a visit to Captain Clerke. The chief who first struck +Captain Cook with the club, was called Karimano, craha, but I did not +know him by his name. These circumstances I learned of honest +Kaireekea, the priest; who added, that they were both held in great +esteem on account of that action: neither of them came near us +afterward. When the boats left the shore, the Indians carried away the +dead body of Captain Cook and those of the marines, to the rising +ground, at the back of the town, where we could plainly see them with +our glasses from the ships. + +'This most melancholy accident appears to have been altogether +unexpected and unforeseen, as well on the part of the natives as +ourselves. I never saw sufficient reason to induce me to believe, that +there was any thing of design, or a preconcerted plan on their side, +or that they purposely sought to quarrel with us: thieving, which gave +rise to the whole, they were equally guilty of in our first and second +visits. It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happened +between us: their petty thefts were generally overlooked, but +sometimes slightly punished: the boat, which they at last ventured to +take away, was an object of no small magnitude to people in our +situation, who could not possibly replace her, and therefore not +slightly to be given up. We had no other chance of recovering her, but +by getting the person of the king into our possession: on our +attempting to do that, the natives became alarmed for his safety, and +naturally opposed those whom they deemed his enemies. In the sudden +conflict that ensued, we had the unspeakable misfortune of losing our +excellent commander, in the manner already related. It is in this +light the affair has always appeared to me, as entirely accidental, +and not in the least, owing to any previous offence received, or +jealousy of our second visit entertained by the natives. + +'Pareah seems to have been the principal instrument in bringing about +this fatal disaster. We learned afterward, that it was he who had +employed some people to steal the boat: the king did not seem to be +privy to it, or even apprized of what had happened, till Captain Cook +landed. + +'It was generally remarked, that, at first, the Indians shewed great +resolution in facing our fire-arms; but it was entirely owing to +ignorance of their effect. They thought that their thick mats would +defend them from a ball as well as from a stone; but being soon +convinced of their error, yet still at a loss to account how such +execution was done among them, they had recourse to a stratagem, +which, though it answered no other purpose, served to shew their +ingenuity and quickness of invention. Observing the flashes of the +muskets, they naturally concluded, that water would counteract their +effect, and therefore, very sagaciously dipped their mats, or armour, +in the sea, just as they came on to face our people: but finding this +last resource to fail them, they soon dispersed, and left the beach +entirely clear. It was an object they never neglected, even at the +greatest hazard, to carry off their slain; a custom, probably owing to +the barbarity with which they treat the dead body of an enemy, and the +trophies they make of his bones.' + +In consequence of this barbarity of disposition, the whole remains of +Captain Cook could not be recovered. For, though every exertion was +made for that purpose; though negotiations and threatenings were +alternately employed, little more than the principal part of his bones +(and that with great difficulty) could be procured. By the possession +of them, our navigators were enabled to perform the last offices to +their eminent and unfortunate commander. The bones, having been put +into a coffin, and the service being read over them, were committed to +the deep, on the 21st, with the usual military honours. What were the +feelings of the companies of both the ships, on this occasion, must be +left to the world to conceive; for those who were present, know, that +it is not in the power of any pen to express them. + +A promotion of officers followed the decease of Captain Cook. Captain +Clerke having succeeded of course to the command of the expedition, +removed on board the Resolution. By him Mr. Gore was appointed captain +of the Discovery, and the rest of the lieutenants obtained an addition +of rank, in their proper order. Mr. Harvey, a midshipman, who had been +in the last as well as the present voyage, was promoted to the vacant +lieutenancy. + +Not long after Captain Cook's death, an event occurred in Europe, +which had a particular relation to the voyage of our navigator, and +which was so honourable to himself, and to the great nation from whom +it proceeded, that it is no small pleasure to me to be able to lay the +transaction somewhat at large before my readers. What I refer to is, +the letter which was issued, on the 19th of March, 1779, by Mr. +Sartine secretary of the marine department at Paris, and sent to all +the commanders of French ships. The rescript was as follows: 'Captain +Cook, who sailed from Plymouth in July, 1776, on board the Resolution, +in company with the Discovery, Captain Clerke, in order to make some +discoveries on the coasts, islands, and seas of Japan and California, +being on the point of returning to Europe; and such discoveries being +of general utility to all nations, it is the king's pleasure, that +Captain Cook shall be treated as a commander of a neutral and allied +power, and, that all captains of armed vessels, &c. who may meet that +famous navigator, shall make him acquainted with the king's orders on +this behalf, but, at the same time, let him know, that on his part he +must refrain from hostilities.' By the Marquis of Condorcet we are +informed, that this measure originated in the liberal and enlightened +mind of that excellent citizen and statesman, M. Turgot. 'When war,' +says the marquis, 'was declared between France and England, M. Turgot +saw how honourable it would be to the French nation, that the vessel +of Captain Cook should be treated with respect at sea. He composed a +memorial, in which he proved, that honour, reason, and even interest, +dictated this act of respect for humanity; and it was in consequence +of this memorial, the author of which was unknown during his life, +that an order was given not to treat as an enemy the common benefactor +of every European nation.' + +Whilst great praise is due to M. Turgot, for having suggested the +adoption of a measure which hath contributed so much to the reputation +of the French government, it must not be forgotten, that the first +thought of such a plan of conduct was probably owing to Dr. Benjamin +Franklin. Thus much, at least, is certain, that this eminent +philosopher, when ambassador at Paris from the United States of +America, preceded the court of France in issuing a similar +requisition; a copy Of which cannot fail of being acceptable to the +reader. + +'To all Captains and Commanders of armed Ships acting by Commission +from the Congress of the United States of America, now in war with +Great Britain. + +'Gentlemen, + +'A ship having been fitted out from England before the commencement of +this war, to make discoveries of new countries in unknown seas, under +the conduct of that most celebrated navigator and discoverer, Captain +Cook; an undertaking truly laudable in itself, as the increase of +geographical knowledge facilitates the communication between distant +nations, in the exchange of useful products and manufactures, and the +extension of arts, whereby the common enjoyments of human life are +multiplied and augmented, and science of other kinds increased, to the +benefit of mankind in general--This is therefore most earnestly to +recommend to every one of you, that in case the said ship, which is +now expected to be soon in the European seas on her return, should +happen to fall into your hands, you would not consider her as an +enemy, nor suffer any plunder to be made of the effects contained in +her, nor obstruct her immediate return to England, by detaining her, +or sending her into any other part of Europe, or to America; but that +you would treat the said Captain Cook and his people with all civility +and kindness, affording them, as common friends to mankind, all the +assistance in your power, which they may happen to stand in need of. +In so doing you will not only gratify the generosity of your own +dispositions, but there is no doubt of your obtaining the approbation +of the Congress, and your other American owners. + +'I have the honour to be, Gentlemen, + +'Your most obedient, humble servant, + +B. FRANKLIN, + +'Minister Plenipotentiary from the Congress of the United States, at +the Court of France. + +At Passy, near Paris, the 10th day of March, 1779.' + +It is observable that, as Dr. Franklin acted on his own authority, he +could only _earnestly recommend_ to the commanders of American +armed vessels not to consider Captain Cook as an enemy; and it is +somewhat remarkable, that he mentions no more than one ship; Captain +Clerke not being noticed in the requisition. In the confidence which +the doctor expressed, with respect to the approbation of Congress, he +happened to be mistaken. As the members of that assembly, at least +with regard to the greater part of them, were, not possessed of minds +equally enlightened with that of their ambassador, he was not +supported by his masters in this noble act of humanity, of love to +science, and of liberal policy. The orders he had given were instantly +reversed; and it was directed by Congress, that especial care should +be taken to seize Captain Cook, if an opportunity of doing it +occurred. All this preceeded from a false notion, that it would be +injurious to the United States for the English to obtain a knowledge +of the opposite coast of America. + +The conduct of the court of Spain was regulated by similar principles +of jealousy. It was apprehended by that court, that there was reason +to be cautious of granting, too easily, an indulgence to Captain Cook; +since it was not certain what mischiefs might ensue to the Spaniards +from a northern passage to their American dominions. M. de Belluga, a +Spanish gentleman and officer, of a liberal and philosophical turn of +mind, and who was a member of the Royal Society of London, endeavoured +to prevail upon the Count of Florida Blanca, and M. d'Almodaver, to +grant an order of protection to the Resolution and Discovery; and he +flattered himself, that the ministers of the King of Spain would be +prevailed upon to prefer the cause of science to the partial views of +interest: but the Spanish government was not capable of rising to so +enlarged and magnanimous a plan of policy. To the French nation alone, +therefore, was reserved the honour of setting an example of wisdom and +humanity, which, I trust, will not hereafter be so uncommon to the +history of mankind. + +The progress of the voyage, after the decease of Captain Cook, doth +not fall within the design of the present narrative.[16] + + [Footnote 16: The particulars of the voyage, after the death of + Captain Cook, of which it did not fall under Dr. Kippis's plan to + give a narrative, will be found in the Appendix.] + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Character of Captain Cook.--Effects of his Voyages.--Testimonies of +Applause.--Commemorations of his Services--Regard paid to his +Family.--Conclusion. + + +From the relation that has been given of Captain Cook's course of +life, and of the important events in which he was engaged, my readers +cannot be strangers to his general character. This, therefore, might +be left to be collected from his actions, which are the best +exhibitions of the great qualities of his mind. But, perhaps, were I +not to endeavour to afford a summary view of him in these respects, I +might be thought to fail in that duty which I owe to the public on the +present occasion. + +It cannot, I think, be denied, that genius belonged to Captain Cook in +an eminent degree. By genius, I do not here understand imagination +merely, or that power of culling the flowers of fancy which poetry, +delights in; but an inventive mind; a mind full of resources; and, +which, by its own native vigour, can suggest noble objects of pursuit +and the most effectual methods of attaining them. This faculty was +possessed by our navigator in its full energy, as is evident from the +uncommon sagacity and penetration which he discovered in a vast +variety of critical and difficult situations. + +To genius Captain Cook added application, without which nothing very +valuable or permanent can be accomplished, even by the brightest +capacity. For an unremitting attention to whatever related to his +profession, he was distinguished in early life. In every affair that +was undertaken by him, his assiduity was without interruption, and +without abatement. Whereever he came, he suffered nothing, which was +fit for a seaman to know or to practise, to pass unnoticed, or to +escape his diligence. + +The genius and application of Captain Cook were followed by a large +extent of knowledge; a knowledge which, besides a consummate +acquaintance with navigation, comprehended a number of other sciences. +In this respect the ardour of his mind rose above the disadvantages of +a very confined education. His progress in the different branches of +the mathematics, and particularly in astronomy, became so eminent, +that, at length, he was able to take the lead in making the necessary +observations of this kind, in the course of his voyages. He attained +likewise to such a degree of proficiency in general learning, and the +art of composition, as to be able to express himself with a manly +clearness and propriety, and to become respectable as the narrator, as +well as the performer, of great actions. + +Another thing, strikingly conspicuous in Captain Cook, was the +perseverance with which he pursued the noble objects to which his life +was devoted. This, indeed, was a most distinguished feature in his +character: in this he scarcely ever had an equal, and never a +superior. Nothing could divert him from the points he aimed at; and he +persisted in the prosecution of them, through difficulties and +obstructions, which would have deterred minds of very considerable +strength and firmness. + +What enabled him to persevere in all his mighty undertakings was the +invincible fortitude of his spirits. Of this, instances without number +occur in the accounts of his expeditions; two of which I shall take +the liberty of retailing to the attention of my readers. The first is, +the undaunted magnanimity with which he prosecuted his discoveries +along the whole southeast coast of New Holland. Surrounded as he was +with the greatest possible dangers, arising from the perpetual +succession of rocks, shoals, and breakers, and having a ship that was +almost shaken to pieces by repeated perils, his vigorous mind had a +regard to nothing but what he thought was required of him by his duty +to the public. It will not be easy to find, in the history of +navigation, a parallel example of courageous exertion. The other +circumstance I would refer to, is the boldness with which, in his +second voyage after he left the Cape of Good Hope, he pushed forward +into unknown seas, and penetrated through innumerable mountains and +islands of ice, in the search of a southern continent. It was like +launching into chaos: all was obscurity, all was darkness before him; +and no event can be compared with it, excepting the sailing of +Magelhaens, from the straits which bear his name into the Pacific +Ocean. + +The fortitude of Captain Cook, being founded upon reason, and not upon +instinct, was not an impetuous valour, but accompanied with complete +self-possession. He was master of himself on every trying occasion, +and seemed to be the more calm and collected, the greater was the +exigence of the case. In the most perilous situations, when our +commander had given the proper directions concerning what was to be +done while he went to rest, he could sleep, during the hours he had +allotted to himself, with perfect composure and soundness. Nothing +could be a surer indication of an elevated mind; of a mind that was +entirely satisfied with itself, and the measures it had taken. + +To all these great qualities Captain Cook added the most amiable +virtues. That it was impossible for any one to excel him in humanity, +is apparent from his treatment of his men through all his voyages, and +from his behaviour to the natives of the countries which were +discovered by him. The health, the convenience, and, as far as it +could be admitted, the enjoyment of the seamen, were the constant +objects of his attention; and he was anxiously solicitous to +ameliorate the condition of the inhabitants of the several islands and +places which he visited. With regard to their thieveries, he candidly +apologized for, and overlooked many offences which others would have +sharply punished; and when he was laid under an indispensable +necessity of proceeding to any acts of severity, he never exerted +them without feeling much reluctance and concern. + +In the private relations of life, Captain Cook was entitled to high +commendation. He was excellent as a husband and a father, and sincere +and steady in his friendships: and to this it may be added, that he +possessed that general sobriety and virtue of character, which will +always be found to constitute the best security and ornament of every +other moral qualification. + +With the greatest benevolence and humanity of disposition, Captain +Cook was occasionally subject to a hastiness of temper. This, which +has been exaggerated by the few (and they are indeed few) who are +unfavourable to his memory, is acknowledged by his friends. It is +mentioned both by Captain King and Mr. Samwell, in their delineations +of his character. Mr. Hayley, in one of his poems, calls him the +_mild Cook_; but, perhaps, that is not the happiest epithet which +could have been applied to him. Mere mildness can scarcely be +considered as the most prominent and distinctive feature in the mind +of a man, whose powers of understanding and of action were so strong +and elevated, who had such immense difficulties to struggle with, and +who must frequently have been called to the firmest exertions of +authority and command. + +Lastly, Captain Cook was distinguished by a property which is almost +universally the concomitant of truly great men, and that is, a +simplicity of manners. In conversation he was unaffected and +unassuming; rather backward in pushing discourse; but obliging and +communicative in his answers to those who addressed him for the +purposes of information. It was not possible that, in a mind +constituted like his, such a paltry quality as vanity could find an +existence. + +In this imperfect delineation of Captain Cook's character, I have +spoken of him in a manner which is fully justified by the whole course +of his life and actions, and which is perfectly agreeable to the +sentiments of those who were the most nearly connected with him in the +habits of intimacy and friendship. The pictures which some of them +have drawn of him, though they have already been presented to the +public, cannot here with propriety be omitted. Captain King has +expressed himself concerning him in the following terms: 'The +constitution of his body was robust, inured to labour, and capable of +undergoing the severest hardships. His stomach bore, without +difficulty, the coarsest and most ungrateful food:--Great was the +indifference with which he submitted to every kind of self-denial. The +qualities of his mind were of the same hardy vigorous kind with those +of his body. His understanding was strong and perspicacious. His +judgment, in whatever related to the services he was engaged in, quick +and sure. His designs were bold and manly; and both in the conception, +and in the mode of execution, bore evident marks of a great original +genius. His courage was cool and determined, and accompanied with an +admirable presence of mind in the moment of danger. His temper might +perhaps have been justly blamed, as subject to hastiness and passion, +had not these been disarmed by a disposition the most benevolent and +humane. + +'Such were the outlines of Captain Cook's character; but its most +distinguishing feature was that unremitting perseverance in the +pursuit of his object, which was not only superior to the opposition +of dangers, and the pressure of hardships, but even exempt from the +want of ordinary relaxation. During the long and tedious voyages in +which he was engaged, his eagerness and activity were never in the +least abated. No incidental temptation could detain him for a moment: +even those intervals of recreation, which sometimes unavoidably +occurred, and were looked for by us with a longing, that persons who +have experienced the fatigues of service will readily excuse, were +submitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could not +be employed in making a farther provision for the more effectual +prosecution of his designs.' + +'The character of Captain Cook,' says Mr. Samwell, 'will be best +exemplified by the services he has performed, which are universally +known, and have ranked his name above that of any navigator of ancient +or of modern times. Nature had endowed him with a mind vigorous and +comprehensive, which in his riper years he had cultivated with care +and industry. His general knowledge was extensive and various: in that +of his own profession he was unequalled. With a clear judgment, strong +masculine sense, and the most determined resolution; with a genius +peculiarly turned for enterprise, he pursued his object with unshaken +perseverance:--vigilant and active in an eminent degree:--cool and +intrepid among dangers; patient and firm under difficulties and +distress; fertile in expedients; great and original in all his +designs; active and resolved in carrying them into execution. These +qualities rendered him the animating spirit of the expedition: in +every situation he stood unrivalled and alone; on him all eyes were +turned; he was our leading star, which, at its setting, left us +involved in darkness and despair. + +'His constitution was strong, his mode of living temperate.--He was a +modest man, and rather bashful; of an agreeable lively conversation, +sensible and intelligent. In his temper he was somewhat hasty, but of +a disposition the most friendly, benevolent, and humane. His person +was about six feet high, and, though a good looking man, he was plain +both in address and appearance. His head was small; his hair, which +was a dark brown, he wore tied behind. His face was full of +expression; his nose exceedingly well shaped; his eyes, which were +small and of a brown cast, were quick and piercing; his eyebrows +prominent, which gave his countenance altogether an air of austerity. + +'He was beloved by his people, who looked up to him as to a father, +and obeyed his commands with alacrity. The confidence we placed in him +was unremitting; our admiration of his great talents, unbounded; our +esteem for his good qualities, affectionate and sincere.---- + +'He was remarkably distinguished for the activity of his mind: it was +that which enabled him to pay an unwearied attention to every object +of the service. The strict economy he observed in the expenditure of +the ship's stores, and the unremitting care he employed for the +preservation of the health of his people, were the causes that enabled +him to prosecute discoveries in remote parts of the globe, for such a +length of time, as had been deemed impracticable by former navigators. +The method he discovered for preserving the health of seamen in long +voyages will transmit his name to posterity as the friend and +benefactor of mankind: the success which attended it afforded this +truly great man more satisfaction than the distinguished fame that +attended his discoveries. + +'England has been unanimous in her tribute of applause to his virtues, +and all Europe has borne testimony to his merit. There is hardly a +corner of the earth, however remote and savage, that will not long +remember his benevolence and humanity. The grateful Indian, in time to +come, pointing to the herds grazing his fertile plains, will relate to +his children how the first stock of them was introduced into the +country; and the name of Cook will be remembered among those benign +spirits, whom they worship as the source of every good, and the +fountain of every blessing.' + +At the conclusion of the Introduction to the Voyage to the Pacific +Ocean is an eulogium on Captain Cook, drawn up by one of his own +profession, of whom it is said, that he is not more distinguished by +the elevation of rank, than by the dignity of private virtues. Though +this excellent eulogium must be known to many, and perhaps to most of +my readers, they will not be displeased at having the greater part of +it brought to their recollection. + +'Captain James Cook possessed,' says the writer, 'in an eminent +degree, all the qualifications requisite for his profession and great +undertakings; together with the amiable and worthy qualities of the +best men. + +'Cool and deliberate in judging: sagacious in determining: active in +executing: steady and persevering in enterprising, from vigilance and +unremitting caution: unsubdued by labour, difficulties, and +disappointments: fertile in expedients: never wanting presence of +mind; always possessing himself, and the full use of a sound +understanding. + +'Mild, just, but exact in discipline: he was a father to his people, +who were attached to him from affection, and obedient from confidence. + +'His knowledge, his experience, his sagacity, rendered him so entirely +master of his subject, that the greatest obstacles were surmounted, +and the most dangerous navigations became easy, and almost safe, under +his direction. + +'By his benevolent and unabating attention to the welfare of his +ship's company, he discovered and introduced a system for the +preservation of the health of seamen in long voyages, which has proved +wonderfully efficacious. + +'The death of this eminent and valuable man was a loss to mankind in +general; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that respects +useful accomplishments, that honours science, and loves the benevolent +and amiable affections of the heart. It is still more to be deplored +by this country, which may justly boast of having produced a man +hitherto unequalled for nautical talents; and that sorrow is farther +aggravated by the reflection, that his country was deprived of this +ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have +been dreaded, but from whom it was not deserved. For, actuated always +by the most attentive care and tender compassion for the savages in +general, this excellent man was ever assiduously endeavouring, by kind +treatment, to dissipate their fears, and court their friendship; +overlooking their thefts and treacheries, and frequently interposing, +at the hazard of his life, to protect them from the sudden resentment +of his own injured people.---- + +'Traveller! contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate this great master +in his profession; whose skill and labours have enlarged natural +philosophy; have extended nautical science; and have disclosed the +long concealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty to the +formation of this globe, and, at the same time, the arrogance of +mortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, for the laws +by which he was pleased to create it. It is now discovered, beyond all +doubt, that the same great Being who created the universe by his +_fiat_, by the same ordained our earth to keep a just poise, +without a corresponding southern continent, and it does so. _He +stretches out the north over the empty place, and hangeth the earth +upon nothing,_ Job XXVI. 7. + +'If the arduous but exact researches of this extraordinary man have +not discovered a new world, they have discovered seas unnavigated and +unknown before. They have made us acquainted with islands, people, and +productions of which we had, no conception. And if he has not been so +fortunate as Americus, to give his name to a continent, his +pretensions to such a distinction remain unrivalled; and he will be +revered while there remains a page of his own modest account of his +voyages, and as long as mariners and geographers shall be instructed, +by his new map of the southern hemisphere, to trace the various +courses and discoveries he has made. + +'If public services merit public acknowledgments, if the man, who +adorned and raised the fame of his country, is deserving of honours, +then Captain Cook deserves to have a monument raised to his memory by +a generous and grateful nation. + + "Virtutis uberrimum alimentum est honos." + Val. Maximus, lib. ii. cap. 6.' + +The last character I shall here insert of Captain Cook comes from a +learned writer, who, in consequence of some disagreements which are +understood to have subsisted between him and our great navigator, +cannot be suspected of intending to celebrate him in the language of +flattery. Dr. Reinhold Forster, having given a short account of the +captain's death, adds as follows: 'Thus fell this truly glorious and +justly admired navigator. If we consider his extreme abilities both +natural and acquired, the firmness and constancy of his mind, his +truly paternal care for the crew intrusted to him, the amiable manner +with which he knew how to gain the friendship of all the savage and +uncultivated nations, and even his conduct towards his friends and +acquaintance, we must acknowledge him to have been one of the greatest +men of his age, and that reason justifies the tear which friendship +pays to his memory.' After such an encomium on Captain Cook, less +regard may justly be paid to the deductions from it, which are added +by Dr. Forster. What he hath said concerning the captain's temper +seems to have received a tincture of exaggeration, from prejudice and +personal animosity; and the Doctor's insinuation, that our navigator +obstructed Lieutenant Pickersgill's promotion, is, I have good reason +to believe, wholly groundless. There is another error which must not +pass unnoticed. Dr. Forster puts in his caveat against giving the name +of Cook's Straits to the Straits between Asia and America, discovered +by Beering. But if the Doctor had read the Voyage to the Pacific +Ocean, published by authority, he would have seen, that there was no +design of robbing Beering of the honour to which he was entitled. + +From a survey of Captain Cook's character, it is natural to extend our +reflections to the effects of the several expeditions in which he was +engaged. These, indeed, must have largely appeared in the general +history of his Life; and they have finely been displayed by Dr. +Douglas, in his admirable Introduction to the Voyage to the Pacific +Ocean. Under the conduct of so able a guide, I shall subjoin a short +view of the subject. + +It must, however, be observed, that, with regard to the three +principal consequences of our great navigator's transactions, I have +nothing further to offer. These are, his having dispelled the illusion +of a _Terra Australis Incognita_; his demonstration of the +impracticability of a northern passage from the Pacific to the +Atlantic Ocean; and his having established a sure method of preserving +the health of seamen in the longest voyages, and through every variety +of latitude and climate. Concerning each of these capital objects, I +have already so fully spoken, that it is not in my power to add to the +impression of their importance, and of Captain Cook's merits in +relation to them, which, I trust, is firmly fixed on the mind of every +reader. + +It is justly remarked, by Dr. Douglas, that one great advantage +accruing to the world from our late surveys of the globe, is, that +they have confuted fanciful theories, too likely to give birth to +impracticable undertakings. The ingenious reveries of speculative +philosophers, which have so long amused the learned, and raised the +most sanguine expectations, are now obliged to submit, perhaps with +reluctance, to the sober dictates of truth and experience. Nor will it +be only by discouraging future unprofitable searches, that the late +voyages will be of service to mankind, but also by lessening the +dangers and distresses formerly experienced in those seas which are +within the actual line of commerce and navigation. From the British +discoveries many commercial improvements may be expected to arise in +our own times: but, in future ages, such improvements may be extended +to a degree, of which, at present, we have no conception. In the long +chain of causes and effects, no one can tell how widely and +beneficially the mutual intercourse of the various inhabitants of the +earth may hereafter be carried on, in consequence of the means of +facilitating it, which have been explored and pointed out by Captain +Cook. + +The interests of science, as well as of commerce, stand highly +indebted to this illustrious navigator. That a knowledge of the globe +on which we live is a very desirable object, no one can call in +question. This is an object which, while it is ardently pursued by the +most enlightened philosophers, is sought for with avidity, even by +those whose studies do not carry them beyond the lowest rudiments of +learning. It need not be said what gratification Captain Cook hath +provided for the world in this respect. Before the voyages of the +present reign took place, nearly half the surface of the earth was +hidden in obscurity and confusion. From the discoveries of our +navigator, geography has assumed a new face, and become, in a great +measure, a new science; having attained to such a completion, as to +leave only some less important parts of the globe to be explored by +future voyagers.[17] + + [Footnote 17: Lieutenant Roberts's admirable chart will set this + matter in the strongest light.] + +Happily for the advancement of knowledge, acquisitions cannot be +obtained in any one branch, without leading to acquisitions in other +branches, of equal, and perhaps of superior consequence. New oceans +cannot be traversed, or new countries visited, without presenting +fresh objects of speculation and inquiry, and carrying the practice, +as well as the theory, of philosophy to a higher degree of perfection. +_Nautical astronomy_, in particular, was in its infancy, when the +late voyages were first undertaken; but, during the prosecution of +them, and especially in Captain Cook's last expedition, even many of +the petty officers could observe the distance of the moon from the +sun, or a star, the most delicate of all observations, with sufficient +accuracy. As for the officers of superior rank, they would have felt +themselves ashamed to have it thought that they did not know how to +observe for, and compute the time at sea; though such a thing had, a +little before, scarcely been heard of among seamen. Nay, first-rate +philosophers had doubted the possibility of doing it with the +exactness that could be wished. It must, however, be remembered, that +a large share of praise is due to the Board of Longitude, for the +proficiency of the gentlemen of the navy in taking observations at +sea. In consequence of the attention of that board to this important +object, liberal rewards have been given to mathematicians for +perfecting the lunar tables, and facilitating calculations; and +artists have been amply encouraged in the construction of instruments +and watches, much more accurately and completely adapted to the +purposes of navigation than formerly existed. + +It is needless to mention what a quantity of additional information +has been gained with respect to the rise and times of the flowing of +the tides; the direction and force of currents at sea; and the cause +and nature of the polarity of the needle, and the theory of its +variations. Natural knowledge has been increased by experiments on the +effects of gravity in different and very distant places; and from +Captain Cook's having penetrated so far into the Southern Ocean, it is +now ascertained, that the phenomenon, usually called the _Aurora +Borealis_, is not peculiar to high northern latitudes, but belongs +equally to all cold climates, whether they be north or south. + +Amidst the different branches of science that have been promoted by +the late expeditions, there is none, perhaps, that stands so highly +indebted to them as the science of botany. At least twelve hundred new +plants have been added to the known system; and large accessions of +intelligence have accrued with regard to every other part of natural +history. This point has already been evinced by the writings of Dr. +Sparrman, of the two Forsters, father and son, and of Mr. Pennant; and +this point will illustriously be manifested, when the great work of +Sir Joseph Banks shall be accomplished, and given to the world. + +It is not to the enlargement of natural knowledge only, that the +effects arising from Captain Cook's voyages are to be confined. +Another important object of study has been opened by them; and that +is, the study of human nature, in situations various, interesting, and +uncommon. The islands visited in the centre of the south Pacific +Ocean, and the principal scenes of the operations of our discoverers, +were untrodden ground. As the inhabitants, so far as could be +observed, had continued, from their original settlement unmixed with +any different tribe; as they had been left entirely to their own +powers for every art of life, and to their own remote traditions for +every political or religious custom or institution; as they were +uninformed by science, and unimproved by education, they could not but +afford many subjects of speculation to an inquisitive and +philosophical mind. Hence may be collected a variety of important +facts with respect to the state of man; with respect to his +attainments and deficiences, his virtue and vices, his employments and +diversions, his feelings, manners, and customs, in a certain period of +society. Even the curiosities which have been brought from the +discovered islands, and which enrich the British Museum, and the late +Sir Ashton Lever's repository, may be considered as a valuable +acquisition to this country; as supplying no small fund of information +and entertainment. + +Few inquiries are more interesting than those which relate to the +migrations of the various families or tribes that have peopled the +earth. It was known in general, that the Asiatic nation, called +Malayans, possessed, in former times, much the greatest trade in the +Indies; and that they frequented, with their merchant ships, not only +all the coasts of Asia, but ventured over even to the coasts of +Africa, and particularly to the great island of Madagascar. But that, +from Madagascar to the Marquesas and Easter Island, that is, nearly +from the east side of Africa, till we approach towards the west side +of America, a space including above half the circumference of the +globe, the same nation of the oriental world should have made their +settlements, and founded colonies throughout almost every intermediate +stage of this immense tract, in islands at amazing distances from the +mother continent, and the natives of which were ignorant of each +other's existence--is an historical fact, that, before Captain Cook's +voyages, could be but very imperfectly known. He it is who hath +discovered a vast number of new spots of land lurking in the bosom of +the South Pacific Ocean, all the inhabitants of which display striking +evidences of their having derived their descent from one common +Asiatic original. Nor is this apparent solely from a similarity of +customs and institutions, but is established by a proof which conveys +irresistible conviction to the mind, and that is, the affinity of +language. The collections that have been made of the words which are +used in the widely diffused islands and countries that have lately +been visited cannot fail, in the hands of such men as a Bryant and a +Marsden, to throw much light on the origin of nations, and the +peopling of the globe.--From Mr. Marsden, in particular, who has +devoted his attention, time, and study to this curious subject, the +literary world may hereafter expect to be highly instructed and +entertained. + +There is another family of the earth, concerning which new information +has been derived from the voyages of our British navigators. That the +Esquimaux, who had hitherto only been found seated on the coasts of +Labradore and Hudson's Bay, agreed with the Greenlanders in every +circumstance of customs, manners, and language, which could +demonstrate an original identity of nation, had already been +ascertained. But that the same tribe now actually inhabit the islands +and coasts on the west side of North America, opposite Kamtschatka, +was a discovery, the completion of which was reserved for Captain +Cook. From his account it appears that these people have extended +their migrations to Norton Sound, Oonalashka, and Prince William's +Sound; that is, to nearly the distance of fifteen hundred leagues from +their stations in Greenland, and the coast of Labradore. Nor does this +curious fact rest merely on the evidence arising from similitude of +manners: for it stands confirmed by a table of words, exhibiting such +an affinity of language as will remove every doubt from the mind of +the most scrupulous inquirer. + +Other questions there are, of a very important nature, the solution of +which will now be rendered more easy than hath heretofore been +apprehended. From the full confirmation of the vicinity of the two +continents of Asia and America, it can no longer be represented as +ridiculous to believe, that the former furnished inhabitants to the +latter. By the facts recently discovered, a credibility is added to +the Mosaic account of the peopling of the earth. That account will, I +doubt not, stand the test of the most learned and rigorous +investigation. Indeed, I have long been convinced, after the closest +meditation of which I am capable, that sound philosophy and genuine +revelation never militate against each other. The rational friends of +religion are so far from dreading the spirit of inquiry, that they +wish for nothing more than a candid, calm, and impartial examination +of the subject according to all the lights which the improved reason +and the enlarged science of man can afford. + +One great effect of the voyages made under the conduct of Captain Cook +is their having excited a zeal for similar undertakings. Other princes +and other nations are engaged in expeditions of navigation and +discovery. By order of the French government, Mess. de la Perouse and +de Langle sailed from Brest, in August, 1785, in the frigates Boussole +and Astroloobe, on an enterprise, the express purpose of which was the +improvement of geography, astronomy, natural history, and philosophy, +and to collect accounts of customs and manners. For the more effectual +prosecution of the design, several gentlemen were appointed to go out +upon the voyage, who were known to excel in different departments of +science and literature. Mr. Dagelet went as astronomer; M. de la +Martinière, P. Recevour, and M. de la Fresne, as naturalists; and the +Chevalier de Lamanon and M. Monges, junior, as natural philosophers. +The officers of the Boussole were men of the best information, and the +firmest resolution: and the crew contained a number of artificers in +various kinds of mechanic employments. Marine watches, and other +instruments, were provided; and M. Dagelet was particularly directed +to make observations with M. Condamine's invariable pendulum, to +determine the differences in gravity, and to ascertain the true +proportion of the equatorial to the polar diameter of the earth. From +some accounts which have already been received of these voyages, it +appears, that they have explored the coast of California; have +adjusted the situation of more than fifty places, almost wholly +unknown; and have visited Owhyhee, and the rest of the Sandwich +Islands. When the expedition shall be completed, the whole result of +it will doubtless be laid before the public.[18] + + [Footnote 18: An account of this voyage during the years 1785, + 1786, 1787, and 1788, has been published in France, from papers + transmitted at different times by La Perouse; but nothing since + the year 1788 has been received relative to the progress of the + voyage, or the fate of the voyagers, who are all supposed to have + perished by shipwreck.] + +Although Captain Cook has made such vast discoveries in the Northern +Ocean, on and between the east of Asia and the west coast of America, +Mr. Coxe has well shewn that there is still room for a farther +investigation of that part of the world. Accordingly, the object has +been taken up by the Empress of Russia, who has committed the conduct +of the enterprise to Captain Billings, an Englishman in her majesty's +service. As Captain Billings was with Captain Cook in his last voyage, +he may reasonably be supposed to be properly qualified for the +business he has undertaken. The design, with the execution of which he +is entrusted, appears to be very extensive and important; and, if it +should be crowned with success, cannot fail of making considerable +additions to the knowledge of geography and navigation. + +There is one event at home, which has evidently resulted from Captain +Cook's discoveries, and which, therefore, must not be omitted. What I +refer to is the settlement at Botany Bay. With the general policy of +this measure the present narrative has not any concern. The plan, I +doubt not, has been adopted with the best intentions, after the +maturest deliberation, and perhaps with consummate wisdom. One evident +advantage arising from it is, that it will effectually prevent a +number of unhappy wretches from returning to their former scenes of +temptations and guilt, and may open to them the means of industrious +subsistence and moral reformation. If it be wisely and prudently begun +and conducted, who can tell what beneficial consequences may spring +from it, in future ages? Immortal Rome is said to have risen from the +refuse of mankind. + +While we are considering the advantages the _discoverers_ have +derived from the late navigations, a question naturally occurs, which +is, What benefits have hence accrued to the _discovered_? It +would be a source of the highest pleasure to be able to answer the +question to complete satisfaction. But it must be acknowledged, that +the subject is not wholly free from doubts and difficulties; and these +doubts and difficulties might be enlarged upon, and exaggerated, by an +imagination which is rather disposed to contemplate and represent the +dark than the luminous aspect of human affairs. In one respect, Mr. +Samwell has endeavoured to shew, that the natives of the lately +explored parts of the world, and especially so far as relates to the +Sandwich Islands, were not injured by our people; and it was the +constant solicitude and care of Captain Cook, that evil might not be +communicated in any one place to which he came. If he was universally +successful, the good which, in various cases, he was instrumental in +producing, will be reflected upon with the more peculiar satisfaction. + +There is an essential difference between the voyages that have lately +been undertaken, and many which have been carried on in former times. +None of my readers can be ignorant of the horrid cruelties that were +exercised by the conquerors of Mexico and Peru; cruelties which can +never be remembered, without blushing for religion and human nature. +But to undertake expeditions with a design of civilizing the world, +and meliorating its condition, is a noble object. The recesses of the +globe were investigated by Captain Cook, not to enlarge private +dominion, but to promote general knowledge; the new tribes of the +earth were visited as friends; and an acquaintance with their +existence was sought for, in order to bring them within the pale of +the offices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfect +state of society. Such were the benevolent views which our navigator +was commissioned by his majesty to carry into execution; and there is +reason to hope that they will not be wholly unsuccessful. From the +long continued intercourse with the natives of the Friendly, Society, +and Sandwich Islands, some rays of light must have darted on their +infant minds. The uncommon objects which have been presented to their +observation, and excited their surprise, will naturally tend to +enlarge their stock of ideas, and to furnish new materials for the +exercise of their reasonable faculties. It is no small addition to +their comforts of life, and their immediate enjoyments, that will be +derived from the introduction of our useful animals and vegetables; +and if the only benefit they should ever receive from the visits of +the English should be the having obtained fresh means of subsistence, +that must be considered as a great acquisition. + +But may not our hopes be extended to still nobler objects? The +connexion which has been opened with these remote inhabitants of the +world is the first step toward their improvement; and consequences may +flow from it, which are far beyond our present conceptions. Perhaps, +our late voyages may be the means appointed by Providence, of +spreading, in due time, the blessings of civilization among the +numerous tribes of the South Pacific Ocean, and preparing them for +holding an honourable rank among the nations of the earth. There +cannot be a more laudable attempt, than that of endeavouring to rescue +millions of our fellow-creatures from that state of humiliation in +which they now exist. Nothing can more essentially contribute to the +attainment of this great end, than a wise and rational introduction of +the Christian religion; an introduction of it in its genuine +simplicity; as holding out the worship of one God, inculcating the +purest morality, and promising eternal life as the reward of +obedience. These are views of things which are adapted to general +comprehension, and calculated to produce the noblest effects. + +Considering the eminent abilities displayed by Captain Cook, and the +mighty actions performed by him, it is not surprising that his memory +should be held in the highest estimation, both at home and abroad. +Perhaps, indeed, greater honour is paid to his name abroad than at +home. Foreigners, I am informed, look up to him with an admiration +which is not equalled in this country. A remarkable proof of it +occurs, in the eulogy of our navigator, by Michael Angelo Gianetti, +which was read at the royal Florentine academy, on the 9th of June, +1785, and published at Florence, in the same year. Not having seen it, +I am deprived of the power of doing justice to its merit. If I am not +mistaken in my recollection, one of the French literary academies has +proposed a prize for the best eulogium on Captain Cook; and there can +be no doubt but that several candidates will appear upon the occasion, +and exert the whole force of their eloquence on so interesting a +subject. + +To the applauses of our navigator, which have already been inserted, I +cannot avoid adding some poetical testimonies concerning him. The +first I shall produce is from a foreign poet, M. l'Abbé Lisle. This +gentleman has concluded his 'Les Jardins' with an encomium on Captain +Cook, of which the following lines are a translation: + + "Give, give me flowers: with garlands of renown + Those glorious exiles' brows my hands shall crown, + Who nobly sought on distant coasts to find, + Or thither bore those arts that bless mankind: + Thee chief, brave Cook, o'er whom, to nature dear, + With Britain, Gallia drops the pitying tear. + To foreign climes and rude, where nought before + Announced our vessels but their cannons' roar, + Far other gifts thy better mind decreed, + The sheep, the heifer, and the stately steed; + The plough, and all thy country's arts; the crimes + Atoning thus of earlier savage times. + With peace each land thy bark was wont to hail, + And tears and blessings fill'd thy parting sail. + Receive a stranger's praise; nor, Britain, thou + Forbid these wreaths to grace thy Hero's brow, + Nor scorn the tribute of a foreign song, + For Virtue's sons to every land belong: + And shall the Gallic Muse disdain to pay + The meed of worth, when Louis leads the way? + But what avail'd, that twice thou daredst to try + The frost-bound sea, and twice the burning sky, + That by winds, waves, and every realm revered, + Safe, only safe, thy sacred vessel steer'd; + That war for thee forgot its dire commands + The world's great friend, ah! bleeds by savage hands." + +There have not been wanting elegant writers of our own country, who +have embraced with pleasure the opportunities that have offered of +paying a tribute of praise to Captain Cook. The ingenious and amiable +Miss Hannah More has lately seized an occasion of celebrating the +humane intentions of the captain's discoveries. + + "Had those advent'rous spirits, who explore + Through ocean's trackless wastes, the far-sought shore + Whether of wealth insatiate, or of power, + Conquerors who waste, or ruffians who devour: + Had these possess'd, O Cook! thy gentle mind, + Thy love of arts, thy love of humankind; + Had these pursu'd thy mild and lib'ral plan, + _Discoverers_ had not been a curse to man! + Then, bless'd Philanthropy! thy social hands + Had link'd dissever'd worlds in brothers' bands; + Careless, if colour, or if clime divide; + Then lov'd and loving, man had liv'd, and died." + +Soon after the account arrived in England of Captain Cook's decease, +two poems were published in celebration of his memory; one of which +was an Ode, by a Mr. Fitzgerald, of Gray's Inn. But the first, both in +order of time and of merit, was an Elegy, by Miss Seward, whose +poetical talents have been displayed in many beautiful instances to +the public. This lady, in the beginning of her poem, has admirably +represented the principal of humanity by which the captain was +actuated in his undertakings. + + "Ye, who ere while for Cook's illustrious brow + Pluck'd the green laurel and the oaken bough, + Hung the gay garlands on the trophied oars, + And pour'd his fame along a thousand shores. + Strike the slow death-bell!--weave the sacred verse, + And strew the cypress o'er his honour'd hearse; + In sad procession wander round the shrine, + And weep him mortal, whom ye sung divine! + + "Say first, what Pow'r inspir'd his dauntless breast + With scorn of danger, and inglorious rest, + To quit imperial London's gorgeous plains, + Where, rob'd in thousand tints, bright Pleasure reigns! + What Pow'r inspir'd his dauntless breast to brave + The scorch'd Equator, and th' Antarctic wave? + Climes, where fierce suns in cloudless ardours shine, + And pour the dazzling deluge round the Line; + The realms of frost, where icy mountains rise, + 'Mid the pale summer of the polar skies?-- + _It was Humanity!_--on coasts unknown, + The shiv'ring natives of the frozen zone, + And the swart Indian, as he faintly strays + 'Where Cancer reddens in the solar blaze,' + She bade him seek;--on each inclement shore + Plant the rich seeds of her exhaustless store; + Unite the savage hearts, and hostile hands, + In the firm compact of her gentle bands; + Strew her soft comforts o'er the barren plain, + Sing her sweet lays, and consecrate her fane. + + "_It was Humanity!_--O Nymph divine! + I see thy light step print the burning Line! + There thy bright eye the dubious pilot guides, + The faint oar struggling with the scalding tides-- + On as thou lead'st the bold, the glorious prow, + Mild, and more mild, the sloping sunbeams glow; + Now weak and pale the lessen'd lustres play, + As round th' horizon rolls the timid day; + Barb'd with the sleeted snow, the driving hail, + Rush the fierce arrows of the polar gale; + And through the dim, unvaried, ling'ring hours, + Wide o'er the waves incumbent horror lours." + +Captain Cook's endeavours to serve the inhabitants of New Zealand, by +the vegetables and animals he left among them, are thus described: + + "To these the hero leads his living store, + And pours new wonders on th' uncultur'd shore; + The silky fleece, fair fruit, and golden grain; + And future herds and harvests bless the plain, + O'er the green soil his kids exulting play, + And sounds his clarion loud the bird of day; + The downy goose her ruffled bosom laves, + Trims her white wing, and wantons in the waves; + Stern moves the bull along th' affrighted shores, + And countless nations tremble as he roars." + +I shall only add the pathetic and animated conclusion of this fine +poem: + + "But ah!--aloft on Albion's rocky steep, + That frowns incumbent o'er the boiling deep, + Solicitous, and sad, a softer form + Eyes the lone flood, and deprecates the storm.-- + Ill fated matron!--for, alas! in vain + Thy eager glances wander o'er the main! + Tis the vex'd billows, that insurgent rave, + Their white foam silvers yonder distant wave, + Tis not his sails! thy husband comes no more! + His bones now whiten an accursed shore!-- + Retire,--for hark! the seagull shrieking soars, + The lurid atmosphere portentous lours; + Night's sullen spirit groans in every gale, + And o'er the waters draws the darkling veil, + Sighs in thy hair, and chills thy throbbing breast-- + Go wretched mourner!--weep thy griefs to rest! + "Yet, though through life is lost each fond delight, + Though set thy earthly sun in dreary night, + Oh! raise thy thoughts to yonder starry plain, + And own thy sorrow selfish, weak, and vain: + Since, while Britannia, to his virtues just, + Twines the bright wreath, and rears th' immortal bust; + While on each wind of heaven his fame shall rise, + In endless incense to the smiling skies; + _The attendant Power_, that bade his sails expand, + And waft her blessings to each barren land, + Now raptur'd bears him to th' immortal plains, + Where Mercy hails him with congenial strains; + Where soars, on Joy's white plume, his spirit free, + And angels choir him, while he waits for _Thee_." + +Captain Cook's discoveries, among other effects, have opened new +scenes for a poetical fancy to range in, and presented new images to +the selection of genius and taste. The morals, in particular, of the +inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, afford a fine subject for the +exercise of a plaintive Muse. Such a Muse hath seized upon the +subject; and, at the same time, has added another wreath to the memory +of our navigator. I refer to a lady, who hath already, in many +passages of her 'Peru,' in her 'Ode on the Peace.' and, above all, in +her 'Irregular Fragment,' amply proved to the world, that she +possesses not only the talent of elegant and harmonious versification, +but the spirit of true poetry. The poem, which I have now the pleasure +of giving for the first time to the public, and which was written at +my request, will be found in the Appendix. It is some what remarkable, +that female poets have hitherto been the chief celebrators of Captain +Cook in this country. Perhaps a subject which would furnish materials +for as rich a production as Camoen's Lusiad, and which would adorn the +pen of a Hayley or a Cowper, may hereafter call forth the genius of +some poet of the stronger sex. + +The Royal Society of London could not lose such a member of their body +as Captain Cook, without being anxious to honour his name and memory +by a particular mark of respect. Accordingly, it was resolved to do +this by a medal; and a voluntary subscription was opened for the +purpose. To such of the fellows of the society as subscribed twenty +guineas, a gold medal was appropriated: silver medals were assigned to +those who contributed a smaller sum; and to each of the other members +one in bronze was given. The subscribers of twenty guineas were, Sir +Joseph Banks, president; the Prince of Anspach, the Duke of Montague, +Lord Mulgrave and Mr. Cavendish, Mr. Peachy, Mr. Perrin, Mr. Poli, and +Mr. Shuttleworth. Many designs, as might be expected, were proposed on +the occasion. The medal which was actually struck contains, on one +side, the head of Captain Cook in profile, and round it, JAC. COOK +OCEANI INVESTIGATOR ACERRIMUS; and on the exergue, REG. SOC. LOND. +SOCIO SUO. On the reverse is a representation of Britannia holding a +globe. Round her is inscribed NIL INTENTATUM NOSTRI LIQUERE: and on +the exergue, AUSPICIIS GEORGII III. + +Of the gold medals which were struck on this occasion, one was +presented to His Majesty, another to the Queen, and a third to the +Prince of Wales. Two were sent abroad: the first to the French king on +account of the protection he had granted to the ships under the +command of Captain Cook; and a second to the Empress of Russia, in +whose dominions the same ships had been received and treated with +every degree of friendship and kindness. Both these presents were +highly acceptable to the great personages to whom they were +transmitted. The French king expressed his satisfaction in a very +handsome letter to the Royal Society, signed by himself, and +undersigned by the Marquis de Vergennes; and the Empress of Russia +commissioned Count Osterman to signify to Mr. Fitzherbert the sense +she entertained of the value of the present, and that she had caused +it to be forthwith deposited in the Museum of the Imperial Academy of +Sciences. As a farther testimony of the pleasure she derived from it, +the Empress presented to the Royal Society a large and beautiful gold +medal, containing on one side the effigies of herself, and on the +reverse a representation of the statue of Peter the Great. + +After the general assignment of the medals (which took place in the +spring of the year 1784), there being a surplus of money still +remaining, the president and council resolved, that an additional +number should be struck off in gold, to be disposed of as presents to +Mrs. Cook, the Earl of Sandwich, Dr. Benjamin Franklin, Dr. Cooke, +provost of King's College, Cambridge, and Mr. Planta. About the same +time it was agreed, that Mr. Aubert should be allowed to have a gold +medal of Captain Cook, on his paying for the gold, and the expense of +striking it: in consideration of his intention to present it to the +King of Poland. + +During the two visits of the Resolution and Discovery at Kamtschatka, +it was from Colonel Behm, the commandant of that province, that the +ships, and the officers and men belonging to them, had received every +kind of assistance which it was in his power to bestow. His liberal +and hospitable behaviour to the English navigators is related at large +in Captain King's Voyage. Such was the sense entertained of it by the +Lords of the Admiralty, that they determined to make a present to the +colonel, of a magnificent piece of plate, with an inscription +expressive of his humane and generous disposition and conduct. The +elegant pen of Dr. Cooke was employed in drawing up the inscription, +which, after it had been subjected to the opinion and correction of +some gentlemen of the first eminence in classical taste, was as +follows: + +'VIRO EGREGIO MANGO DE BEHM; qui Imperatricis Augustissimae Catherinæ +auspiciis, summaque animi benignitate, saeva, quibus praeerat, +Kamtschatkae littora, navibus nautisque Britannicis, hospita praebuit; +eosque, in terminis, si qui essent Imperio Russico frustra, +explorandis, mala multa perpessos, iterata, vice excepit, refecit, +recreavit, et commeatu omni cumulate auctos dimisit; REI NAVALIS +BRITANNICAE SEPTEMVIRI in aliquam benevolentiae tam insignis memoriam, +amicissimo, gratissimoque animo, suo, patriaeque nomine, D. D. D. M. +DCC. LXXXI.' + +Sir Hugh Palliser, who through life manifested an invariable regard +and friendship for Captain Cook, has displayed a signal instance, +since the Captain's decease, of the affection and esteem in which he +holds his memory. At his estate in Buckinghamshire Sir Hugh hath +constructed a small building, on which he has erected a pillar, +containing the fine character of our great navigator that is given at +the end of the Introduction to the last Voyage, and the principal part +of which has been inserted in the present work. This character was +drawn up by a most respectable gentleman, who has long been at the +head of the naval profession, the honourable Admiral Forbes, admiral +of the fleet, and general of marines; to whom Captain Cook was only +known by his eminent merit and his extraordinary actions. + +Amidst the numerous testimonies of regard that have been paid to +Captain Cook's merits and memory, the important object of providing +for his family hath not been forgotten. Soon after the intelligence +arrived of his unfortunate decease, this matter was taken up by the +lords of the Admiralty, with a zeal and an effect, which the following +authentic document will fully display: + +'At the Court at St. James's, the 2nd of February, 1780; + +'(L. S.) 'Present, + +'The KING's Most Excellent Majesty in Council. + +'Whereas there was this day read, at the Board, a memorial from the +Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated the +27th of last month, in the words following: viz. + +'Having received an authentic account of the death of that great + Navigator, Captain James Cook, who has had the honour of being + employed by Your Majesty, in three different voyages, for the + discovery of unknown countries in the most distant parts of the globe; + we think it our duty humbly to represent to Your Majesty, that this + meritorious officer, after having received from Your Majesty's + gracious benevolence, as a reward for his public services in two + successful circumnavigations, a comfortable and honourable retreat, + where he might have lived many years to benefit his family, he + voluntarily relinquished that ease and emolument to undertake another + of these voyages of discovery, in which the life of a commander, who + does his duty, must always be particularly exposed, and in which, in + the execution of that duty, he fell, leaving his family, whom his + public spirit had led him to abandon, as a legacy to his country. We + do therefore humbly propose, that Your Majesty will be graciously + pleased to order a pension of two hundred pounds a year to be settled + on the widow, and twenty-five pounds a year upon each of the three + sons of the said Captain James Cook, and that the same be placed on + the ordinary estimate of the navy. + +'His Majesty, taking the said memorial into his Royal consideration, +was pleased, with the advice of His Privy Council, to order, as it is +hereby ordered, that a pension of two hundred pounds a year be settled +on the widow, and twenty-five pounds a year upon each of the three +sons of the said Captain James Cook, and that the same be placed on +the ordinary estimate of His Majesty's navy; and the Lords +Commissioners of the Admiralty are to give the necessary directions +herein accordingly. + +W. FAWKENER.' + +The preceding memorial to the king was signed by the Earl of Sandwich. +Mr. Buller, the Earl of Lisburne, Mr. Penton, Lord Mulgrave, and Mr. +Mann; and the several officers of the Board of Admiralty seconded the +ardour of their superiors, by the speed and generosity with which his +majesty's royal grant to Captain Cook's widow and children passed +through the usual forms. + +Another occasion was afterwards seized of conferring a substantial +benefit on the captain's family. The charts and plates belonging to +the Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, were provided at the expense of +government; the consequence of which was, that a large profit accrued +from the sale of the publication. Of this profit, half was consigned, +in trust, to Sir Hugh Palliser and Mr. Stephens, to be applied to the +use of Mrs. Cook, during her natural life, and afterwards to be +divided between her children. + +Honour as well as emolument, hath graciously been conferred by his +majesty upon the descendants of Captain Cook. On the 3rd of September, +1785, a coat of arms was granted to the family, of which a description +will be given below.[19] + + [Footnote 19: Azure, between the two polar stars Or, a sphere on + the plane of the meridian, north pole elevated, circles of + latitude for every ten degrees, and of longitude for every + fifteen, shewing the Pacific Ocean between sixty and two hundred + and forty west, bounded on one side by America, on the other by + Asia and New Holland, in memory of the discoveries made by him in + that ocean, so very far beyond all former navigators. His track + thereon is marked with red lines. And for crest, on a wreath of + the colours, is an arm imbowed, vested in the uniform of a captain + of the royal navy. In the hand is the union jack, on a staff + Proper. The arm is encircled by a wreath of palm and laurel.] + +Our navigator had six children; James, Nathaniel, Elizabeth, Joseph, +George, and Hugh. Of these, Joseph and George died soon after their +birth, and Elizabeth in the fifth year of her age. James, the eldest +son, who was born at St. Paul's, Shadwell, on the 13th of October, +1763. is now a lieutenant in his majesty's navy. In a letter, written +by Admiral Sir Richard Hughes, in 1785, from Grenada, to Mrs. Cook, he +is spoken of in terms of high approbation. Nathaniel, who was born on +the 14th of December, 1764, at Mile-End Old Town, was brought up +likewise in the naval service, and was unfortunately lost on board his +majesty's ship Thunderer, Commodore Walsingham, in the hurricane which +happened at Jamaica, on the 3rd of October, 1730. He is said to have +been a most promising youth. Hugh, the youngest, was born on the 22nd +of May, 1776; and was so called after the name of his father's great +friend, Sir Hugh Palliser. + +It hath often been mentioned, in terms of no small regret, that a +monument hath not yet been erected to the memory of Captain Cook, in +Westminster Abbey. + +The wish and the hope of such a monument are hinted at in the close of +Dr. Douglas's Introduction to the government edition of the last +voyage; and the same sentiment is expressed by the author of the +Eulogium, at the end of that Introduction. Sir Hugh Palliser has also +spoken to the like purpose, in a communication I received from him. It +would certainly redound to the honour of the nation, to order a +magnificent memorial of the abilities and services of our illustrious +navigator; on which account, a tribute of that kind may be regarded as +a desirable thing. But a monument in Westminster Abbey would be of +little consequence to the reputation of Captain Cook. His fame stands +upon a wider base, and will survive the comparatively perishing +materials of brass, or stone, or marble. The name of Cook will be held +in honour, and recited with applause, so long as the records of human +events shall continue in the earth; nor is it possible to say, what +may be the influence and rewards, which, in other worlds, shall be +found to attend upon eminent examples of wisdom and of virtue. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +After the death of Captain Cook, and the events immediately succeeding +it, Captain Clerke, upon whom the command of the expedition had +devolved, proceeded from Owhyhee, and coasted several of the other +islands of the group. The ships anchored at Atooi to procure water; in +doing this our voyagers experienced some interruption from the +natives, and a slight conflict took place, in which one of the +islanders was wounded by a musket-shot. They were here told, that, at +their preceding visit, they had left a disorder amongst the women, of +which several persons of both sexes had died; and as there was not the +slightest appearance of the disorder amongst the natives, at the first +arrival of the vessels, there is too much reason to believe that some +of the crew were the authors of that irreparable mischief. Atooi was +in a state of internal warfare; the quarrel had arisen about the goats +Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow the year before, the property of +which was contested by two different chiefs. The goats, which had +increased to the number of six, and would probably in a few years have +stocked all these islands, were destroyed in the contest. + +Our voyagers left the Sandwich Islands finally on the 15th of March: +and stood to the south-west, in hopes of falling in with the island of +Modoopapappa, which they were told by the natives lay in that +direction, about five hours' sail from Taohora; but though the two +vessels stretched asunder several miles, they did not discover it. It +is possible it might have been passed in the night, as the islanders +described it to be small, sandy, and almost even with the surface of +the sea. + +The harbour of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in Awatska Bay, was +appointed for the next rendezvous of the two vessels, in case of +separation. In the course of their navigation towards Kamtschatka, +they traversed that part of the Northern Pacific, in which some +islands and lands were laid down in the charts, such as the island of +Reia de Plata in De l'Isle's chart, and the land said to have been +seen by John de Gama, in a voyage from China to New Spain, first +delineated in a chart published by Texeira, a Portuguese geographer, +in 1649; but though at sundry times they had various indications of +land, they discovered none, and those islands and lands must therefore +either be of trifling extent, or wholly imaginary. + +A leak, under the larboard bow of the Resolution, which had kept the +people almost constantly at the pumps, ever since their leaving the +Sandwich Islands, occasioned a great alarm on the 13th of April. The +water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not finding a sufficient +vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over it, and in a +moment deluged the whole space between decks. The coals would very +soon choke up a pump, and the number of bulky materials that were +washed out of the gunner's store room, and which, by the ship's +motion, were tossed violently from side to side, rendered it +impracticable to bale the water out. No other method was therefore +left, than to cut a hole through the bulk-head, that separated the +coal-hole from the fore-hold. As soon as the passage was made, the +greatest part of the water was emptied into the well: but the leak was +now so much increased, that it was necessary to keep one half of the +people constantly pumping and baling, till the noon of the 15th. + +On the 23rd, at six in the morning, on the fog clearing away, the land +of Kamtschatka appeared, in mountains covered with snow. The weather +was most severe: the ship appeared to be a complete mass of ice, and +the shrouds were so incrusted with it, as to measure in circumference +more than double their usual size. The crews suffered very severely +from the cold, particularly from having lately left the tropical +climates; and, but for the foresight and care of their officers, would +indeed have been in a deplorable state. It was natural to expect, that +their experience, during their voyage to the north the year before, +would have made them sensible of the necessity of paying some +attention to their clothing; as it was generally known in both ships, +that they were to make another voyage towards the pole; but, with the +thoughtlessness of infants, upon their return to a warm climate, their +fur jackets and the rest of their cold-country clothes, were kicked +about the decks, as things of no value. They were of course picked up +by the officers, and being put into casks, were, in due season, +restored to their owners. + +On the 25th, when off the entrance of Awatska Bay, the Resolution lost +sight of the Discovery, and on the 28th entered the Bay. The officers +of the Resolution examined every corner of it, with their glasses, in +search of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, which they had conceived +to be a place of some strength and consideration. At length they +discovered, on a narrow point of land a few miserable loghouses, and +some conical huts raised on poles, amounting in all to about thirty, +which, from the situation, they were under the necessity of concluding +to be Petropaulowska. 'However,' says Captain King, 'in justice to the +generous and hospitable treatment we found here, I shall beg leave to +anticipate the reader's curiosity, by assuring him that our +disappointment proved to be more of a laughable than a serious nature; +for, in this wretched extremity of the earth, situated beyond every +thing that we conceived to be most barbarous and inhospitable, and, as +it were, out of the very reach of civilization, barricadoed with ice, +and covered with summer snow, in a poor miserable port, far inferior +to the meanest of our fishing-towns, we met with feelings of humanity, +joined to a greatness of mind, an elevation of sentiment, which would +have done honour to any nation or climate.' + +In the morning of the 29th, Captain, then Lieutenant King was sent on +shore; and after experiencing much difficulty from the broken ice that +extended nearly half a mile, across which he was obliged to make the +best of his way on foot, was received by the commander of the garrison +at the head of his men consisting of about thirty soldiers. They had +not seen the ship the preceding day, nor indeed that morning, till the +boats were pretty near the ice. Much panic ensued; the garrison was +put under arms, and two field piece placed at the entrance of the +commander's house. All, however, soon wore a friendly aspect, and +nothing could exceed the kindness and hospitality of the officer, a +serjeant, who commanded in the ostrog, and at whose house they were +entertained. He furnished Lieutenant King, who bad fallen in between +the disjointed ice, with a complete suit of clothes of his own; the +dinner that was served up consisted of four courses; but the +conversation, from the want of an interpreter, no other language being +understood there but Russian and Kamtschatdale, was confined to a few +bows and other signs of mutual respect. The serjeant sent of an +express to Bolcheretsk, where the governor of the province usually +resided, and whence he had to look for orders what to do, as to the +procurement of the supplies of provisions, and naval stores, which our +people wanted. + +On their return, a sledge drawn by five dogs, with a driver, was +provided for each of the party. The sailors were highly delighted with +this mode of conveyance, and, what diverted them most was, that the +two boat-hooks which they had brought, had also a sledge to +themselves. + +On the 1st of May, the Discovery entered the bay. On the day after, +early in the morning, an answer was received from Bolcheretsk. The +dispatches had been sent off on the 29th, about noon, by a sledge +drawn by dogs, so that they were only a little more than three days +and a half in performing a journey of two hundred and seventy miles; +Bolcheretsk being about one hundred and thirty-five rules from St. +Peter and St. Paul. + +As the whole stock of live cattle which the country about the bay +could afford, amounted only to two heifers, Captain Clerke found it +necessary to send to Bolcheretsk, and Captain Gore and Lieutenant King +were fixed on for the excursion. They proceeded by boats up the +Awatska river, then across part of the country in sledges, and then +down the Bolchoireka in canoes. + +Major Behm, the governor of Kamtschatka, received them, not only with +the utmost politeness, but with the most engaging cordiality; and all +the principal people of the town vied with each other who should shew +the most civility to strangers from the other extremity of the globe. +A list of the naval stores, the number of cattle, and the quantity of +flour wanted by the navigators, was given to Major Behm, who insisted +upon supplying all their wants; and when they desired to be made +acquainted with the price of the articles, with which they were to be +supplied, and proposed, that Captain Clerke should give bills to the +amount on the Victualling-office in London, the major positively +refused, and whenever it was afterward urged, stopped them short by +saying, he was certain he could not oblige his mistress, the empress, +more than in giving every assistance in his power to her good friends +and allies, the English; and that it would be a particular +satisfaction to her, to hear, that, in so remote a part of the world, +her dominions had afforded any relief to ships engaged in such +services; that he could not therefore act so contrary to the character +of his empress, as to accept of any bills; but that, to accommodate +the matter, he would take a bare attestatation of the particulars with +which we might be furnished, and that this he would transmit to his +court, as a certificate of having performed his duty. + +The town of Bolcheretsk consists of several rows of low buildings, +barracks for the Russian soldiers and Cossacks, a good looking church, +and a court-room, with a great number of balagans (summer habitations) +belonging to the Kamtschatdales, at the end of the town. The +inhabitants amount to between five and six hundred. + +It would exceed the bounds to which this sketch must necessarily be +confined, to enumerate one half of the instances of civility and +attention which Major Behm, his lady, the officers of the garrison, +and the inhabitants of the town bestowed upon the English travellers. +One generous present cannot, however, be passed over in silence, both +because it consisted of the greatest part of their small store of the +article, and because it called forth from the British seamen a +corresponding generosity. Being informed of the privations the sailors +had suffered from the want of tobacco, Major Behm sent four bags of +it, weighing upwards of one hundred pounds each, which he begged might +be presented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his +command, to our sailors. When the seamen were told of it, the crews of +both ships desired, entirely of their own accord, that their grog +might be stopped, and their allowance of spirits, presented, on their +part, to the garrison of Bolcheretsk, as they had reason to conclude, +that brandy was scarce in the country and would be very acceptable, +since the soldiers on shore had offered four roubles a bottle for it. +When it is considered how much the sailors would feel from the +stoppage of their allowance of grog, and that this offer would deprive +them of it during the inclement season they had to expect on their +ensuing expedition to the north, the sacrifice must be looked upon as +generous and extraordinary; and, that they might not suffer by it, +Captain Clerke substituted, in the room of the very small quantity the +major could be prevailed on to accept, the same quantity of rum. + +When the party returned to Petropaulowska, Major Behm accompanied +them, and visited the ships. He had resigned the command of +Kamtschatka, and was in a short time to return to St. Petersburgh; our +navigators therefore committed to his care dispatches for England, +with the journals and charts of the voyage so far. + +They got about twenty head of cattle, about nine thousand weight of +rye flour, and a variety of other provisions and refreshments here, +especially fish, with which they were absolutely overpowered from +every quarter; and, having completed their water, they weighed anchor +on the 13th of June, and on the 16th cleared the bay. The volcano, +situated to the north of the harbour, was in a state of eruption at +the time. + +On the 5th of July, our navigators passed through Beering's Straits, +having run along the Asiatic coast; they then stretched over to that +of America, with a view of exploring it between the latitudes of 68° +and 69°. But in this attempt they were disappointed, being stopped, on +the 7th, by a large and compact field of ice connected with the land. +On the 9th, they had sailed nearly forty leagues to the westward, +along the edge of the ice, without seeing any opening, and had +therefore no prospect of advancing farther north.--Until the 27th, +however, they continued to seek a passage, first on the American, and +then on the Asiatic side; but were never able to penetrate farther +north than 70° 33', which was five leagues short of the point to which +they had advanced the season before. + +At one time, in attempting to penetrate to the northwestward, the +Discovery was in a very dangerous situation. She became so entangled +by several large pieces of ice, that her way was stopped, and +immediately dropping bodily to leeward, she fell broadside foremost on +the edge of a considerable body of ice, and having at the same time an +open sea to windward the surf caused her to strike violently upon it. +This mass at length either so far moved or broke, as to set them at +liberty to make another trial to escape; but, before the ship gathered +way enough to be under command, she again fell to leeward on +another fragment; and the swell making it unsafe to lie to windward, +and finding no chance of getting clear, they pushed into a small +opening, furled their sails, and made fast with ice-hooks. A change of +wind, however, taking place in the afternoon, the ice began to +separate, and, setting all their sails, they forced a passage through +it. The vessel had rubbed off a great deal of the sheathing from her +bows, and became very leaky from the strokes she received when she +fell on the edge of the ice. + +In these high latitudes, our navigators killed several sea-horses, and +also two white bears; the flesh of the latter afforded a few excellent +meals of fresh meat. It had indeed a strong fishy taste, but was in +every respect superior to that of the sea-horse, which nevertheless, +the sailors were again persuaded, without much difficulty, to prefer +to their salted provisions. + +Finding a farther advance to the northward, as well as a nearer +approach to either continent, obstructed by a sea blocked up with ice, +Captain Clerke at length determined to lose no more time in the +pursuit of what seemed utterly unattainable, and to sail for Awatska +Bay, to repair their damages, and before the winter should set in, to +explore the coast of Japan on their way towards Europe. To the great +joy, therefore, of every individual on board both ships, they turned +their faces towards home; and the delight and satisfaction they +experienced on the occasion, notwithstanding the tedious voyage they +had to make, and the immense distance they had to run, were as freely +entertained, and perhaps as fully enjoyed, as if they had been already +in sight of the land's End. + +On the 31st, they repassed Beering's Straits. With respect to the +practicability of a north-east or north-west passage into the Pacific +Ocean, through those straits, from the result of their attempts it +appears, that the north of the straits is clearer of ice in August +than in July, and perhaps in a part of September it may be still more +free. But, after the equinox, the days shorten so fast, that no +farther thaw can be expected, and so great an effect cannot rationally +be allowed to the warm weather in the first half of September as to +imagine it capable of dispersing the ice from the most northern parts +of the American coast. But admitting this to be possible, it would be +madness to attempt to run from the Icy Cape to the known parts of +Baffin's Bay (a distance of four hundred and twenty leagues) in so +short a time as that passage can be supposed to remain open. Upon the +Asiatic side, there appears still less probability of success; for, +though Deshneff, a Russian navigator, about a century and a half ago, +passed round the north-east point of Asia, no voyager has yet been +able to double Cape Taimura beyond the mouth of the Lena, which +stretches to the 78° of latitude. + +Captain Clerke's health now rapidly declined, and, on the 17th of +August he was no longer able to get out of his bed. On the 21st, they +made the coast of Kamtschatka; and on the following day, at nine in +the morning. Captain Clerke died.[19] His disease was a consumption, +which had evidently commenced before he left England, and of which he +had lingered during the whole voyage. + +[Footnote 19: Captain Clerke departed this life in the thirty-eighth +year of his age. He was brought up to the navy from his earliest +youth, and had been in several actions during the war which began in +1756. In the action between the Bellona and the Courageux, being +stationed in the mizen-top, he was carried over-board with the mast; +but was taken up without having received any hurt. He was a midshipman +in the Dolphin, commanded by Captain Byron, in her voyage round the +world: after which he served on the American station. In 1768, he made +his second voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, as master's mate: +and, in consequence of the death of Mr. Hicks, which happened on the +23rd of May, 1771, he returned home a lieutenant. His third +circumnavigation of the globe was in the Resolution, of which he was +appointed the second lieutenant; and he continued in that situation +till his return in 1775; soon after which he was promoted to the rank +of master and commander. In what capacity he sailed with Captain Cook +in this last expedition, need not be added. The consumption, of which +Captain Clerke died, had evidently commenced before he left England, +and he lingered under it during the whole voyage. Though his very +gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to his friends, +nevertheless, they derived some consolation from the equanimity with +which he bore his disorder, from the constant flow of good spirits +maintained by him to his latest hour, and from his submitting to his +fate with cheerful resignation. 'It was, however, impossible,' says +Mr. King, 'not to feel a more than common degree of compassion for a +person, whose life had been a continued scene of those difficulties +and hardships, to which a seaman's occupation is subject, and under +which he at last sunk.' + +_King's Voyage_, p. 280, 281.] + +On the 24th, the vessels anchored in the harbour of St Peter, and St. +Paul, where the gentlemen on board were received by their Russian +friends, with the same cordiality as before. Captain Gore, upon whom +the command of the expedition now devolved, removed himself to the +Resolution, and appointed Mr. King to the command of the Discovery. He +sent off an express to the commander at Bolcheretsk, in which he +requested to have sixteen head of black cattle. The eruption of the +volcano, which had taken place at the time of the late departure of +the vessels from Awatska, had done no damage, notwithstanding stones +had fallen at the ostrog of the size of a goose's egg. + +Attempts were now made to repair, as far as was practicable, the +damage the Discovery had sustained in the ice, and in removing the +sheathing, eight feet of a plank in the wale were found to be so very +rotten as to make it necessary to shift it. The carpenters were sent +on shore in search of a tree large enough for the purpose: luckily +they found a birch, which was the only one of sufficient size in the +whole neighbourhood of the bay. The crews were employed in various +necessary occupations: amongst which, four men were set apart to haul +the seine for salmon, which were caught in great abundance, and of +excellent quality. After supplying the immediate wants of both ships, +they salted down near a hogshead a day. The seahorse blubber, with +which they had stored themselves, during their expedition to the +north, was boiled down for oil, now become a necessary article, their +candles having been long since all used. + +The body of Captain Clerke was interred on Sunday the 29th, with all +the solemnity and honours they could bestow, under a tree, in the +valley on the north side of the harbour; a spot, which the priest of +Paratounea said, would be, as near as he could guess, in the centre of +the new church intended to be erected. + +On the 3rd of September, arrived an ensign from Bolcheretsk, with a +letter from Captain Shmalelf, the present commander, who promised the +cattle required and that he would himself pay them a visit immediately +on the arrival of a sloop, which was daily expected from Okotzk. + +On the morning of the 10th, a Russian galliot, from Okotzk, was towed +into the harbour. She had been thirty-five days on her passage, and +had been seen from the lighthouse a fortnight before, beating up +towards the mouth of the bay. There were fifty soldiers in her, with +their wives and children, and several other passengers; a +sub-lieutenant, who came in her, now took the command of the garrison, +and from some cause or other, which the English could not learn, their +old friend, the serjeant, the late commander of the place, fell into +disgrace, and was no longer suffered to sit down in the company of his +own officers. + +From the galliot, our navigators got a small quantity of pitch, tar, +cordage, and twine, and a hundred and forty skins of flour, containing +13,782 lbs. English. + +The Hospodin Ivaskin from Verchnei had been desired by Mayor Behm to +attend the English officers on their return to the harbour, in order +to be their interpreter. He now came. He was an exile; and was of a +considerable family in Russia; his father was a general, and he +himself, after having received his education partly in France and +partly in Germany, had been page to the Empress Elizabeth, and ensign +in her guards. At the age of sixteen, he was _knowted_, had his +nose slit, and was banished, first to Siberia, end afterward to +Kamtschatka, where he had lived thirty-one years. He bore in his whole +figure the strongest marks of old age, though he had scarcely reached +his fifty-fourth year. No one there knew the cause of his banishment, +but they took it for granted, that it must have been for something +very atrocious, as two or three of the commanders of Kamtschatka, had +in vain endeavoured to get him recalled since the present empress's +reign. For the first twenty years he had not tasted bread, nor been +allowed subsistence of any kind, but had lived during that period +among the Kamtschatdales, on what his own activity and toil in the +chase could procure him. Afterward, he had a small pension granted +him. This Major Behm by his intercession had caused to be increased to +one hundred roubles a year, which is the common pay of an ensign in +all parts of the empress's dominions, except in this province, where +the pay of all the officers is double. + +This gentleman joined Captains Gore and King on a bear-hunting party +on the 17th, for two days; in which, first from the party being too +large, and the unavoidable noise that was the consequence of it, and +next, from the unfavourable weather after they separated, they were +wholly unsuccessful. + +On the 22nd, the anniversary of his majesty's coronation, and when +they were sitting down to as handsome a feast as their situation would +admit of, in honour of the day, the arrival of Captain Shmalelf from +Bolcheretsk was announced. He partook of their festivities, and set +off on his return on the 25th. Before his departure, he reinstated the +serjeant in the command of the place, and took with him the +sub-lieutenant who had superseded him. Captain King accompanied +Captain Shmalelf to the entrance of Awatska river, and on Sunday, the +26th, attended him to church at Paratounea. The church is of wood, and +by far the best building in the country round about the bay. It is +ornamented by many paintings, particularly with two pictures of St. +Peter and St. Paul, presented by Beering, and which, in the real +richness of their drapery, would carry off the prize from the first of +European performances; for all the principal parts of it are made of +thick plates of solid silver, fastened to the canvass, and fashioned +into the various foldings of the robes. + +The next day another hunting party was set on foot, under the +direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated +bear-hunter. The produce was a female bear, beyond the common size, +which they shot in the water, and found dead the next morning in the +place to which she had been watched. The mode of hunting these animals +by the natives is as follows: When they come to the ground frequented +by the bears, their first step is to look for their tracks: these are +found in the greatest numbers leading from the woods down to the +lakes, and among the long sedgy grass and brakes by the edge of the +water. The place of ambuscade being determined on, the hunters next +fix in the ground the crutches upon which their firelocks are made to +rest, pointing them in the direction they mean to shoot. This done, +they kneel, or lie down, and, with their bear-spears by their side, +wait for the game. These precautions, which are chiefly taken in order +to make sure of their mark, are, on several accounts, highly +expedient. For, in the first place, ammunition is so dear in +Kamtschatka, that the price of a bear will not purchase more of it +than is sufficient to load a musket four or five times; and, what is +more material, if the bear be not rendered incapable of pursuit by the +first shot, the consequences are often fatal. He immediately makes +towards the place whence the noise and smoke issue, and attacks his +adversaries with great fury. It is impossible for them to reload, as +the animal is seldom at more than twelve or fifteen yards' distance +when he is fired at: so that, if he does not fall, they immediately +put themselves in a posture to receive him upon their spears, and +their safety greatly depends on their giving him a mortal stab as he +first comes upon them. If he parries the thrust (which bears, by the +extraordinary strength and agility of their paws, are often enabled to +do) and thereby breaks in upon his adversaries, the conflict becomes +very unequal, and it is well if the life of one of the party alone +suffice to pay the forfeit. + +On the 1st of October, the cattle arrived from Verchnei, and the 3rd, +being the nameday of the empress, Captain Gore invited the priest of +Paratounea, Ivaskin, and the serjeant, to dinner, and an entertainment +was also provided for the inferior officers of the garrison, for the +_toions_ of Paratounea and Petropaulowska, and for the better +sort of the Kamtschatdale inhabitants. The rest of the natives of +every description were invited to partake with the ships' companies, +who had a pound of good fat beef served up to each man, and what +remained of their spirits was made into grog, and divided amongst +them. + +On the 5th, our navigators received from Bolcheretsk a fresh present +of tea, sugar, and tobacco. They were ready for sea, but the weather +prevented them from leaving the bay till the 9th. Just before they +weighed anchor, the drummer of the marines belonging to the Discovery +deserted, having been last seen with a Kamtschatdale woman, to whom +his messmates knew he had been much attached, and who had often been +observed persuading him to stay behind. This man had been long useless +to them, from a swelling in his knee, which rendered him lame, but +this made them the more unwilling to leave him behind, to become a +burden both to the Russians and himself. Some of the sailors were +therefore sent to a well-known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, +where they found him and his woman. On the return of the party with +the deserter, the vessels weighed, and came out of the bay. + +Awatska Bay has within its mouth a noble basin of twenty-five miles in +circuit, with the capacious harbours of Tareinska to the west, +Rakoweena to the east, and the small one of St. Peter and St. Paul to +the north. The last mentioned is a most convenient little harbour. It +will hold with ease half-a-dozen ships moored head and stern, and is +fit for giving them any kind of repairs. The south side is formed by a +low sandy neck, exceedingly narrow, on which the ostrog is built. The +deepest water within is seven fathoms, and in every part over a muddy +bottom. There is a watering-place at the head of the harbour. + +The commerce of this country, as far as regards the exports, is +entirely confined to furs and carried on by a company of merchants +instituted by the empress. Besides these, there are many inferior +traders (particularly Cossacks) scattered through the country. +Formerly this commerce was altogether carried on by barter, but lately +every article is bought and sold for ready money only. Our sailors +brought a great number of furs with them from the coast of America, +and were both astonished and delighted with the quantity of silver the +merchants paid down for them; but on finding neither ginshops to +resort to, nor tobacco, nor any thing else that they cared for, to be +had for money, the roubles soon became troublesome companions, and +often to be seen kicked about the decks. + +The articles of importation are principally European, several likewise +come from Siberia, Bucharea, the Calmucks, and China. They consist of +course woollen and linen cloths, yarn stockings, bonnets and gloves, +thin Persian silks, cottons and nankeens, handkerchiefs, brass and +copper pans, iron stoves, files, guns, powder and shot, hardware, +looking-glasses, flour, sugar, tanned hides, &c. Though the merchants +have a large profit upon these important goods, they have still a +larger upon the furs of Kiachta, upon the frontiers of China, which is +the great market for them. The best sea-otter skins sell generally in +Kamtschatka for about thirty roubles each. The Chinese merchant at +Kiachta purchases them at more than double that price, and sells them +again at Pekin at a great advance, whence a farther profitable trade +is made with some of them to Japan. If, therefore, a skin is worth +thirty roubles in Kamtchatka, to be transported first to Okotzk, +thence by land to Kiachta, a distance of 1364 miles; thence to Pekin, +760 miles more; and after that to be conveyed to Japan, what a +prodigiously advantageous trade might be carried on direct to Japan, +which is about a fortnight or three weeks' sail from Kamtschatka! + +It was now resolved, in consequence of the latitude given by the +instructions of the Board of Admiralty, to run along the Kuriles, and +to survey the eastern coasts of the Japanese islands, previous to +returning homewards; and Captain Gore gave orders for Macao to be the +place of rendezvous in case of separation. + +They coasted along the peninsula of Kamtschatka with variable weather, +and on the 12th, at six in the afternoon, they saw, from the mast +head, Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of the peninsula. This +point of land, which is a low flat cape, formed a marked object in the +geography of the eastern coast of Asia, and by an accurate observation +and several good angles, they determined its precise situation to be +in latitude 51° 0', and longitude 156° 45'. At the same time they saw +too the first of the Kurile islands, called Shoomsha, and on the next +day they saw the second, Paramousir; the latter is the largest of the +Kuriles subject to Russia; but the gale increasing from the west, they +were never able to approach it nearer than to observe its general +aspect, which was very high land, almost entirely covered with snow; +and to ascertain its situation; which was found to be 10' west +longitude from Lopatka, and its latitude 50° 46' at the north, and 49° +58' at the south end. + +On the 14th and 15th, the wind blowing steadily from the westward, +they were obliged to stand to the southward, and were consequently +hindered from seeing any more of the Kurile islands. In the situation +they then found themselves, they were almost surrounded by the +supposed discoveries of former navigators. To the southward and +south-west were placed, in the French charts, a group of five islands, +called the three Sisters, Zellany, and Zunasher. They were about ten +leagues, according to the same maps, to the westward of the land of De +Gama; and as the Company's Land, Staten Island, and the famous land of +Jesso, were also supposed to lie nearly in the same direction, this +course was deemed to deserve the preference, and they hauled round to +the westward, the wind having shifted to the north. A succession of +gales, however, and now and then a storm, that reduced them to their +courses, drove them too much to the southward, prevented them from +falling in even with the southernmost of the Kurile islands, and +obliged them at last to give up all further thoughts of discovery to +the north of Japan. + +On the 22nd, the gale having abated, they let out the reefs of the +topsails and made more sail. At noon they were in latitude 40° 58', +and longitude 148° 17', and two small land birds being taken on board, +plainly indicated they could not be any great distance from the land; +they therefore hauled up to the west-north-west, in which direction +the southernmost islands seen by Spanberg, and said to be inhabited by +hairy men, lay at the distance of about fifty leagues. They saw +several other signs of land; but, on the 24th, the wind shifted to the +north, and blew a fresh gale, so that they finally gave up all further +search for islands to the north of Japan, and shaped their course +west-south-west, for the north part of that island. + +On the 26th, at daybreak, they descried high land to the westward, +which proved to be Japan. The country consisted of a double range of +mountains; it abounded with wood, and had a pleasing variety of hills +and dales. They saw the smoke of several towns, and many houses near +the shore, in pleasant and cultivated situations. They stood off and +on, according as the weather permitted them, till the 28th in the +afternoon, when they lost sight of the land, and from its breaking off +so suddenly, they conjectured that what they had before seen was a +cluster of islands, lying off the main land of Japan. The next day +they saw land again, eleven leagues to the southward. The coast +appeared straight and unbroken; towards the sea it was low, but rose +gradually into hills of a moderate height, whose tops were tolerably +even, and covered with wood. + +At nine o'clock, the wind shifting to the southward, they tacked and +stood off to the east, and soon after they saw a vessel close in with +the land, standing along shore to the northward, and another in the +offing, coming down before the wind. Objects of any kind, belonging to +a country so famous and yet so little known, excited a general +curiosity, and every soul on board was upon deck in an instant, to +gaze at them. The vessel to windward passed ahead of them at the +distance of about half a mile. It would have been easy to have spoken +with her; but perceiving, by her manoeuvres, that she was much +frightened, Captain Gore was not willing to augment her terrors, and +thinking that they should have many better opportunities of +communicating with the Japanese, suffered her to go off without +interruption. There appeared to be about six men on board, and, +according to the best conjectures that could be formed, the vessel was +about forty tons burden. She had but one mast, on which was hoisted a +square sail, extended by a yard aloft, the braces of which worked +forward. Halfway down the sail came three pieces of black cloth, at +equal distances from each other. The vessel was higher at each end +than in the midship, and from her appearance and form she did not +appear to be able to sail otherwise than large. + +Soon after the wind increased so much, that our navigators were +reduced to their courses; and the sea ran as high as any one on board +ever remembered to have seen it. If the Japenese vessels are, as +Kaempfer describes them, open in the stern, it would not have been +possible for those they saw to have survived the fury of the storm; +but as the appearance of the weather, all the preceding part of the +day, foretold its coming, and one of the sloops had, notwithstanding, +stood far out to sea, it was concluded they were perfectly capable of +bearing a gale of wind. + +Our navigators were blown off the land by this gale, but on the 30th +they saw it again, at the distance of about fifteen leagues, appearing +in detached parts, but it could not be determined whether they were +small islands, or parts of Japan. + +On the 1st of November, they saw a number of Japanese vessels close in +with the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and others +standing along shore. They discovered to the westward a remarkably +high mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. As this was the +most remarkable hill on the coast, they wished to have settled its +situation exactly; but only having had a single view, they were +obliged to be contented with such accuracy as their circumstances +would allow. + +Its latitude was reckoned to be 35° 20', and its longitude 140° 26'. + +As the Dutch charts made the coast of Japan extend about ten leagues +to the south-west of White Paint (supposed to be the southernmost land +then in sight) our navigators stood off to the eastward, to weather +the point. At midnight they again tacked, expecting to fall in with +the land to the southward, but were surprised to find, in the morning, +that during eight hours, in which they supposed they had made a course +of nine leagues to the south-west, they had in reality been carried +eight leagues in a direction diametrically opposite. Whence they +calculated that the current had set to the north-east by north, at the +rate of at least five miles an hour. + +On the 3rd of November, they were again blown off the land by a heavy +gale, and found themselves upwards of fifty leagues off, which +circumstances, together with the extraordinary effect of the currents +they had experienced, the late season of the year, the unsettled state +of the weather, and the little likelihood of any change for the +better, made Captain Gore resolve to leave Japan altogether, and +proceed in the voyage for China. + +On the 4th and 5th, our navigators, continuing their course to the +south-east, passed great quantities of pumice-stone. These stones +appeared to have been thrown into the sea by eruptions of various +dates, as many of them were covered with barnacles, and others quite +bare. + +On the 13th, they had a most violent gale from the northward. In the +morning of the 13th, the wind, shifting to the north-west, brought +with it fair weather; but, though they were, at that time, nearly in +the situation given to the island of San Juan, they saw no appearance +of land. They continued to pass much pumice-stone; indeed the +prodigious quantities of that substance which floated in the sea, +between Japan and the Bashee Islands, seemed to indicate that some +great volcanic convulsion must have happened in that part of the +Pacific Ocean. + +On the 14th, they discovered two islands, and on the next day a third; +but Captain Gore, finding that a boat could not land without some +danger, from the great surf that broke on the shore, kept on his +course to the westward. The middle island is about five miles long; +the south point is a high barren hill, presenting an evident volcanic +crater. The earth, rock, or sand, for it was not easy to distinguish +of which its surface was composed, exhibited various colours, and a +considerable part was conjectured to be sulphur, and some of the +officers on board the Resolution thought they saw steams rising from +the top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain Gore gave it +the name of _Sulphur Island_. A long narrow neck of land connects +the hill with the south end of the island, which spreads out into a +circumference of three or four leagues, and is of moderate height. The +north and south islands appeared to be single mountains of a +considerable height. Sulphur Island is in the latitude 24° 48', +longitude 141° 12'. The north island in latitude 25° 14', longitude +141° 10', and the south island in latitude 24° 22', and longitude 141° +20'. + +Hence our navigators proceeded for the Bashee Islands, hoping to +procure at them such a supply of refreshment as would help to shorten +their stay at Macao; but Captain Gore, being guided by the opinions of +Commodore and Captain Wallis, as to the situation of these islands, +which differ materially from Dampier's, they were foiled in their +endeavours to find them, although, in the day time, the ships spread +two or three leagues from each other, and in the night, when under an +easy sail. + +On the 27th, being in longitude 118° 30', and having got to the +westward of the Bashees, according to Mr. Byron's account, our +navigators hauled their wind to the north west, hoping to weather the +Prata shoals but at four in the morning of the 28th, the breakers were +close under their lee; at daylight they saw the island of Prata, and +finding they could not weather the shoal, ran to leeward of it. As +they passed the south side, they saw two remarkable patches on the +edge of the breakers, that looked like wrecks. On the south-west side +of the reef, and near the south end of the island, they thought they +saw openings in the reefs which promised safe anchorage. + +In the forenoon of the 29th, they passed several Chinese fishing +boats; and the sea was covered with wrecks of boats that had been +lost, as they conjectured, in the late boisterous weather. They were +in latitude 22° 1', having run 110 miles since the preceding noon. + +On the 30th, they ran along the Lema Islands, and got a Chinese pilot +on board. In obedience to the instruction given to Captain Cook by the +Admiralty, the captains now required of the officers and men of both +ships to give up their journals, and what other papers they had to +their possession relative to the voyage, which was cheerfully complied +with; and at nine o'clock in the evening of the following day, they +anchored three leagues from Macao. + +Here, upon sending on shore to negotiate for supplies of provisions, +&c. they first received intelligence of the occurrences in Europe, +during the protracted period of their absence. On the 4th of December, +they stood into the Typa, and moored with the stream-anchor and cable +to the westward. + +Captain King was sent up to Canton to expedite the supplies that were +wanted, and experienced every possible assistance from the +supercargoes and gentlemen of the Company's factory there. The +purchase of the provisions and store wanted was completed on the 26th, +and the whole stock was sent down on the following day by a vessel +which Captain Gore had engaged for the purpose. Twenty sea-otter skins +were sold at Canton, by Captain King, for eight hundred dollars. At +the ships a brisk trade was carried on in the same article, by both +officers and seamen. The sea-otter skins every day rose in value, and +a few prime skins, which were clean and well preserved, were sold for +one hundred and twenty dollars each. The whole amount of the value, in +specie and goods, that was got for the furs in both ships, did not +fall short of two thousand pounds sterling, and it was generally +supposed, that at least two-thirds of the quantity originally obtained +from the Americans were spoiled or worn out, or had been given away or +sold at Kamtschatka. In consequence hereof, the rage with which the +seamen were possessed to return to Cook' River, and by another cargo +of skins to make their fortunes, was, at one time, not far short of +mutiny. The numerous voyages that have since been undertaken for the +prosecution of the trade here suggested, have rendered it familiar to +the merchants both of Britain and of America; and, though it has not +latterly been productive of advantages equal to those which were +realized by the first adventurers, is still a branch of commerce that +is successfully pursued. + +The barter which had been carrying on with the Chinese for their +sea-otter skins, produced a very whimsical change in the dress of the +crews. On their arrival in the Typa, nothing could exceed the ragged +appearance both of the younger officers and seamen; almost the whole +of their original stock of European clothes having been long worn out, +or patched up with skins, or the various manufactures they had met +with in the course of their discoveries. These were now again mixed +and eked out with the gaudiest silks and cottons of China. + +On the 11th of January, two seamen belonging to the Resolution ran off +with a six oared cutter, and were never after heard of. It was +supposed that they had been seduced by the prevailing notion of making +a fortune by returning to the fur islands. + +On account of the war between England and America, with France and +Spain as her allies, of which they received intelligence at Canton, +they put themselves in the best posture of defence, the Resolution +mounting sixteen guns, and the Discovery ten. They had reason, +however, to believe, from the generosity of their enemies, that these +precautions were superfluous: being informed that instructions had +been found on board all the French ships of war captured in Europe, +directing their commanders, in case of falling in with the ships that +sailed under the command of Captain Cook, to suffer them to proceed +without molestation; and the same orders were also said to have been +given by the American Congress to the vessels employed in their +service. In return for these liberal concessions, Captain Gore +resolved to refrain from availing himself of any opportunities of +capture, and to preserve throughout the remainder of the voyage, the +strictest neutrality. + +On the 12th of January, 1780, our navigators got under sail from +Macao; on the 19th, they saw Pulo Sapata, and on the 20th, descried +Pulo Condore, and anchored in the harbour at the south-west end of the +island. The town is situated at the east end, and here they procured +eight buffaloes, with other refreshments. From the untractableness and +prodigious strength of the buffaloes, it was both a tedious and +difficult operation to get them on board. The method of conducting +them was by passing ropes through their nostrils and round their +horns; but, having been once enraged at the sight of our men, they +became so furious that they sometimes broke the trees to which they +were often under the necessity of being tied; sometimes they tore +asunder the cartilage of the nostril through which the ropes ran, and +got loose. On these occasions, all the exertions of the men to recover +them would have been ineffectual, without the assistance of some young +boys, whom these animals would permit to approach them, and by whose +little management their rage was soon appeased. A circumstance +respecting these animals, which was thought no less singular than +their gentleness toward, and, as it should seem, affection for, little +children, was, that they had not been twenty-four hours on board, +before they became the tamest of all creatures. Captain King kept two +of them, a male and a female, for a considerable time, which became +great favourites with the sailors; and thinking that a breed of +animals of such strength and size, some of them weighing when dressed, +seven hundred pounds, would be a valuable acquisition, intended to +have brought them with him to England, but his intention was +frustrated by an incurable hurt which one of them received at sea. + +Our navigators remained here till the 28th of January, when they +unmoored and proceeded on their homeward voyage, passing through the +Straits of Banea, and of Sunda, without any occurrence worthy of +particular remark. They saw two or three Dutch ships in the Straits of +Sunda. They watered at Prince's Island at the entrance of the Straits, +and got a supply of fowls and turtle there. + +From the time of their entering the Straits of Banea, they began to +experience the powerful effects of the pestilential climate, and +malignant putrid fevers, with obstinate coughs and dysenteries, +prevailed amongst the crews, happily, however, without one fatal +termination. + +On the 18th of February they left the Straits of Sunda; in the night +between the 25th and 26th, they experienced a most violent storm, +during which almost every sail they had bent was split to rags, and +the next day they were obliged to bend their last suit of sails, and +to knot and splice the rigging, their cordage being all expended. + +On the 7th of April they saw the land of Africa, and on the 9th, they +fell in with an English East India packet, that had left Table Bay +three days before. On the evening of the 12th, they dropped anchor in +False Bay, and the next morning stood into Simon's Bay. + +Having completed their victualling, and furnished themselves with the +necessary supply of naval stores, our navigators sailed out of the bay +on the 9th of May. On the 12th of June, they passed the equator for +the fourth time during the voyage. On the 12th of August they made the +western coast of Ireland, and, after a fruitless attempt to put into +Port Galway, they were obliged, by strong southerly winds, to steer to +the northward; and, on the 26th of August, both ships came to an +anchor in Stromness, in the Orkneys, whence Captain King was +dispatched by Captain Gore, to acquaint the board of Admiralty with +their arrival. On the first of October, the ships arrived safe at the +Nore, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty-two days. + + + + +THE MORAI. + +AN ODE. + +BY MISS HELEN MARIA WILLIAMS. + + + Fair Otaheite, fondly bless'd + By him, who long was doom'd to brave + The fury of the polar wave, + That fiercely mounts the frozen rock + Where the harsh sea bird rears her nest, + And learns the raging surge to mock-- + There, Night, that loves eternal storm. + Deep and lengthen'd darkness throws, + And untried Danger's doubtful form + Its half seen horror shews! + While Nature, with a look so wild, + Leans on the cliffs in chaos piled; + That here, the awed, astonish'd mind + Forgets, in that o'erwhelming hour, + When her rude hands the storms unbind, + In all the madness of her power; + That she who spreads the savage gloom, + That _she_ can dress in melting grace, + In sportive Summer's lavish bloom, + The awful terrors of her face; + And wear the sweet perennial smile + That charms in Otaheite's isle. + + Yet, amid her fragrant bowers. + Where Spring, whose dewy fingers strew + O'er other lands some fleeting flowers, + Lives, in blossoms ever new; + Whence arose that shriek of pain? + Whence the tear that flows in vain?-- + Death! thy unrelenting hand + Tears some transient human band-- + Eternity! rich plant that blows + Beneath a brighter, happier sky. + Time is a fading branch, that grows + On thy pure stem, and blooms to die. + + What art thou, Death?--terrific shade. + In unpierced gloom array'd! + Oft will daring Fancy stray + Far in the central wastes, where Night + Divides no cheering hour with Day, + And unnamed horrors meet her sight; + There thy form she dimly sees, + And round the shape unfinish'd throws + All her frantic vision shews + When numbing fears her spirit freeze-- + But can mortal voice declare + If Fancy paints thee as thou art? + Thy aspect may a terror wear + Her pencil never shall impart; + The eye that once on thee shall gaze, + No more its stiffen'd orb can raise; + The lips that could thy power reveal, + Shall lasting silence instant seal-- + In vain the icy hand we fold, + In vain the breast with tears we steep, + The heart, that shared each pang, is cold, + The vacant eye no more can weep. + + Yet from the shore where Ganges rolls + His wave beneath the torrid ray, + To Earth's chill verge, where o'er the poles + Fall the last beams of lingering day. + For ever sacred are the dead? + Sweet Fancy comes in Sorrow's aid, + And bids the mourner lightly tread + Where the insensate clay is laid: + Bids partial gloom the sod invest + By the mouldering relics press'd; + Then lavish strews, with sad delight, + What'er her consecrating power + Reveres of herb, or fruit, or flower, + And fondly weaves the various rite. + + See! o'er Otaheite's plain + Moves the long, funereal train; + Slow the pallid corse they bear, + Oft they breathe the solemn prayer: + Where the ocean bathes the land, + Thrice, and thrice, with pious hand, + The priest, when high the billow springs, + From the wave unsullied, flings + Waters pure, that, sprinkled near, + Sanctify the hallow'd bier: + But never may one drop profane + The relics with forbidden stain! + Now around the funeral shrine, + Led in mystic mazes, twine + Garlands, where the plantain weaves + With the palm's luxuriant leaves; + And o'er each sacred knot is spread + The plant devoted to the dead. + + Five pale moons with trembling light + Shall gaze upon the lengthen'd rite; + Shall see distracted Beauty tear + The tresses of her flowing hair: + Those shining locks, no longer dear, + She wildly scatters o'er the bier; + And careless gives the frequent wound + That bathes in precious blood the ground. + + When along the western sky, + Day's reflected colours die, + And Twilight rules the doubtful hour + Ere slow-paced Night resumes her power; + Mark the cloud that lingers still + Darkly on the hanging hill! + There the disembodied mind + Hears, upon the hollow wind, + In unequal cadence thrown, + Sorrow's oft repeated moan:-- + Still some human passions sway + The spirit late immersed in clay; + Still the faithful sigh is dear, + Still beloved the fruitless tear! + + Five waning moons, with wandering light, + Have pass'd the shadowy bound of night, + And mingled their departing ray + With the soft fires of early day: + Let the last sad rite be paid + Grateful to the conscious shade: + Let the priest, with pious care. + Now the wasted relics bear + Where the Morai's awful gloom + Shrouds the venerable tomb; + Let the plantain lift its head, + Cherish'd emblem of the dead; + Slow and solemn, o'er the grave, + Let the twisted plumage wave, + Symbol hallow'd, and divine, + Of the god who guards the shrine. + Hark!--that shriek of strange despair + Never shall disturb the air. + Never, never shall it rise + But for Nature's broken ties!-- + Bright crescent! that with lucid smiles + Gild'st the Morai's lofty pile, + Whose broad lines of shadow throw + A gloomy horror far below; + Witness, O recording Moon! + All the rites are duly done; + Be the faithful tribute o'er, + The hovering spirit asks no more! + Mortals, cease the pile to tread, + Leave, to silence, leave the dead. + + But where may she who loves to stray + Mid shadows of funereal gloom, + And courts the sadness of the tomb, + Where may she seek the proud Morai, + Whose dear memorial points the place + Where fell the friend of human race? + + Ye lonely isles! on ocean's bound + Ye bloom'd through time's long flight unknown, + Till Cook the untract'd billow pass'd, + Till he along the surges cast + Philanthropy's connecting zone, + And spread her lovliest blessings round. + Not like that murderous band he came, + Who stain'd with blood the new found West + Nor as, with unrelenting breast, + From Britain's free enlighten'd land, + Her sons now seek Angola's strand, + Each tie most sacred to unbind, + To load with chains a brother's frame, + And plunge a dagger in the mind; + Mock the sharp anguish bleeding there + Of Nature in her last despair! + + Great Cook! Ambition's lofty flame, + So oft directed to destroy, + Led _thee_ to circle with thy name, + The smile of Love, and Hope, and Joy! + Those fires, that lend the dangerous blaze + The devious comet trails afar, + Might form the pure benignant rays + That gild the morning's gentle star-- + Sure, where the Hero's ashes rest, + The nations late emerg'd from night + Still base--with love's unwearied care + That spot in lavish flowers is dress'd, + And fancy's dear inventive rite + Still paid with fond observance there! + + Ah no!--around his fatal grave, + No lavish flowers were ever strew'd + No votive gifts were ever laid-- + His blood a savage shore bedew'd! + His mangled limbs, one hasty prayer, + One pious tear by friendship, paid, + Were cast upon the raging wave; + Deep in the wild abyss he lies. + Far from the cherish'd scene of home; + Far, far from Her whose faithful sighs + A husband's trackless course pursue; + Whose tender fancy loves to roam + With _him_ o'er lands and oceans new; + And gilds with Hope's deluding form + The gloomy pathway of the storm. + + Yet, Cook! immortal wreaths are thine! + While Albion's grateful toil shall raise + The marble tomb, the trophied bust, + For ages faithful to its trust; + While, eager to record thy praise, + She bids the Muse of History twine + The chaplet of undying fame, + And tell each polish'd land thy worth: + The ruder natives of the earth + Shall oft repeat thy honour'd name; + While infants catch the frequent sound, + And learn to lisp the oral tale; + Whose fond remembrance shall prevail + Till Time has reach'd his destin'd bound. + +THE END. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of the Voyages Round the +World, Performed by Captain James Cook: with an Account of His Life During the Previous and Intervening Periods, by Andrew Kippis + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES PERFORMED BY JAMES COOK *** + +***** This file should be named 7777-8.txt or 7777-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/7/7/7/7777/ + +Produced by Stan Goodman, Cam Venezuela and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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