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} + .chapter { clear: both; page-break-before: always; } + body {font-family: Garamond, Georgia, serif; text-align: justify; } + table {font-size: .9em; padding: 1.5em .5em 1em; page-break-inside: avoid; + clear: both; } + div.titlepage {text-align: center; page-break-before: always; + page-break-after: always; } + div.titlepage p {text-align: center; text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; + line-height: 1.5; margin-top: 3em; } + .ph1 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: xx-large; + margin: .67em auto; page-break-before: always; } + .ph2 { text-indent: 0em; font-weight: bold; font-size: x-large; margin: .75em auto; + page-break-before: always; } + .x-ebookmaker p.dropcap:first-letter { float: left; } + </style> + </head> + <body> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77612 ***</div> + +<div class='tnotes covernote'> + +<p class='c000'><strong>Transcriber’s Note:</strong></p> + +<p class='c000'>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.</p> + +</div> + +<div class='c001 figcenter id001'> +<img src='images/frontispiece.jpg' alt='Victorian-style illustration on the cover of Valuable Cooking Receipts. A Black woman in an apron mixes ingredients at a small kitchen table while a white woman in a fitted dress stands beside her, reading from a book and pointing at the bowl. In the background, a small child holding an object stands near a doorway. The scene is framed by an ornate bamboo-like border with the title at the top and the publisher’s imprint, 'George W. Harlan, New York, 19 Park Place,' at the bottom.' class='ig001'> +</div> + +<div class='titlepage'> + +<div> + <h1 class='c002'><span class='xlarge'>VALUABLE</span><br> COOKING RECEIPTS.</h1> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><span class='small'>BY</span></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='large'>THOMAS J. MURREY,</span></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='small'><i>Late Caterer of Astor House and Rossmore Hotel of New York, and Continental Hotel of Philadelphia.</i></span></div> + <div class='c004'>NEW YORK:</div> + <div>GEORGE W. HARLAN,</div> + <div><span class='small'><span class='sc'>19 Park Place</span>.</span></div> + <div><span class='small'>1880.</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><span class='small'>Copyright, 1880, by</span></div> + <div><span class='small'>GEORGE W. HARLAN.</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l c003'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line in4'><span class='small'><span class='sc'>J. Campbell</span>,</span></div> + <div class='line in8'><span class='small'>PRINTER,</span></div> + <div class='line'><span class='small'>15 Vandewater St., N. Y.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_3'>3</span> + <h2 id='PREFACE' class='c005'>PREFACE.</h2> +</div> + +<p class='drop-capa0_0_8 c006'>In issuing this little volume the publisher is aware that +the market is already deluged with “cook-books,” both +good and bad; but the aim in this instance is to utilize the +experience of a caterer, who has spent twenty-five years of +his life in the service of leading hotels and restaurants all +over the country, besides catering to the appetites of thousands +of private families. The well-known and unsurpassed +cuisine of the hotels where he has been employed would of +itself form testimony conclusive of his culinary ability, but +he possesses besides numerous flattering letters from private +parties, many of high standing in the community. +As a salad-maker his reputation is wide-spread, and his +receipts under this head are numbered among the hundreds, +any one of which is a masterpiece of epicurean art and +taste. It is my intention shortly to issue a book containing +these receipts.</p> + +<p class='c007'>In writing receipts for this volume Mr. Murrey has kept +economy constantly in mind, and has endeavored to present +some of the most appetizing formulas in such a shape as to +be within the reach of all families of moderate means. +Each and every receipt has been personally tested and can +be implicitly relied upon. The arrangement is that of a +regular bill of fare or <i>ménu</i>. It will be understood, of +course, that the contents of this book do not pretend to +cover the field of cookery. Some idea of the magnitude of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_4'>4</span>such a task can be had when you are informed that Mr. +Murrey possesses probably the largest library on gastronomic +art in this country, numbering many thousand volumes. +Like all men who have made this art a study, he has aimed to +so construct his formulas as to ward off indigestion and dyspepsia. +Apropos at this point is a story illustrating the philanthropy +of that prince of French <i>chefs</i>, Carême. Meeting +one day a woman bitterly weeping at the door of a wine-shop, +his commiserating question was answered by saying +her husband was within; all his earnings were spent there +and his family left to starve. Close questioning revealed +the fact that the culprit liked good living, and that the wife +condemned him to boiled beef every day. “No man cares +to go abroad,” said Carême reproachfully, “for a bad meal, +if his wife can cook him a good one, particularly if a silversmith +and earning money.” Carême visited the house the +next morning, and ordered a silver cup to be repaired, and, +while waiting for its completion, offered to cook his own +breakfast, which the man and wife shared. It was woodcock +cooked in a way to electrify an Apicius. Carême +called again for his cup with some wild duck. Meantime, +the wife made rapid progress in the <i>chef’s</i> art. The husband +ceased wasting his money. The delicate fare improved his +intellect; he became an artist in his trade, and finally one +day Carême received a box containing a silver woodcock exquisitely +carved, carrying in its beak a tiny silver cup, with +the inscription, “To Carême, from a friend who was saved +by good cooking.”</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>The Publisher.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='CONTENTS' class='c005'>CONTENTS</h2> +</div> +<div class='lg-container-b c003'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><a href='#PREFACE'>PREFACE.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#OYSTERS'>OYSTERS.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#SOUPS'>SOUPS.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#FISH'>FISH.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#BOILING'>BOILING.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#ENTREES'>ENTREES.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#VEGETABLE'>VEGETABLE ENTREES.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#ROASTING'>ROASTING.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#SALADS'>SALADS.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#CAKES'>CAKES.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#VEGETABLES'>VEGETABLES.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#TABLE'>TABLE ETIQUETTE.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#BANQUET'>BANQUET SERVICE.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#MIXED'>MIXED DRINKS.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#PRESERVING'>PRESERVING, ETC.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#MENUS'>MENUS.</a></div> + <div class='line'><a href='#INDEX'>INDEX.</a></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div><span class='pageno' id='Page_5'>5</span></div> +<div class='chapter ph1'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>VALUABLE COOKING RECEIPTS.</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<div> + <h2 id='OYSTERS' class='c005'><i>OYSTERS.</i></h2> +</div> +<p class='c008'><strong>Raw Oysters.</strong>—Eat raw oysters as plain and as free from +condiments as possible, and always on the deep shell in their +own liquor. The average American orders a dozen on the +half-shell and then drowns his pets in vinegar, pepper, salt, +horse radish, etc., washing them down with some malt beverage, +pays his check, and disappears. The next day he goes +through the same performance, and the not over-conscientious +oyster-man, knowing his weakness for condiments, can +easily palm off on him a “Rockaway Cull” for a Blue Point +or a Green Point, or he may give him a “deep-water native” +for almost any particular kind or brand he may want, +and he cannot detect the difference in their flavor, owing to +his excessive use of condiments. A little lemon-juice is +all that is necessary, if you will not eat your saline dainties +natural.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The heartless oyster-fiend who opens your oysters by <i>smashing</i> +the shell should be avoided, for it is cruelty, to say the +least. We can forgive him for spattering our clothing with +shells, mud, and dirty water, but filling our mouths with +these things is pure ugliness. Order a quart of the bivalves +to be sent home, and this oyster-butcher endangers the +health of your family should any of them swallow a particle +of the shell. The true lover of an oyster should have +some feeling for his little favorite, and patronize establishments +only where they contrive to open them (Boston fashion) +so dexterously that the mollusk is hardly conscious he +has been removed from his lodging “till he feels the teeth +of the piscivorous gourmet tickling him to death.”</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_6'>6</span><strong>Roast Oysters on half-shell.</strong>—Open a dozen large oysters on +deep shell; add a walnut of butter, with a little salt and mixed +pepper (red and black) and a pinch of cracker-dust to each. +Place them on a broiler over a sharp, clear fire until done, +and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Families not having all the conveniences for roasting oysters +“restaurant fashion” will find the above receipt acceptable; +though I must confess it is quite a treat to our Western +cousins to ask them down into the kitchen of an evening, and +serve up a peck of oysters roasted in the shell direct from +the fire, with no other tool to pick them out of the coals +than the old tongs the moment they pop open. You may +possibly burn a finger or two, but what of that so long as +the young folks have had a good time?</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oysters escalloped.</strong>—In a deep yellow dish place a layer +of oysters and cover them with cracker-dust (add an ounce +of butter to each layer of cracker-dust); pepper and salt to +taste; another layer of oysters, another of cracker-dust, and +so on until the dish is full. Moisten the dish with the juice +of the oysters or hot water to prevent its burning, and +bake a nice brown.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oyster Patties.</strong>—Roll out some very light puff paste half +an inch thick; stamp it in rounds with a cutter three inches +in diameter; press a small cutter two inches in diameter on +the middle of each to the depth of a quarter of an inch. +Place the rounds on a buttered tin, baste them lightly with +egg, and bake in a quick oven. When done take them out, +remove the centre-piece, scoop out a little of the inside, and +fill the shells with the prepared oysters.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Parboil twenty-five oysters in their own liquor; remove +the oysters and season the liquid with lemon-peel, nutmeg, +and pepper; strain, and thicken with a heaping tablespoonful +of flour, one and a half ounces of butter, a wineglassful +of rich cream; mix, and then add the oysters. Simmer all +together a few minutes, fill the shells, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Scallops and clams cut up fine, with a sauce made on the +same principle, make a very nice patty.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_7'>7</span><strong>Oyster toast.</strong>—Select fifteen plump oysters; mince them, +and season with mixed pepper and a pinch of nutmeg; beat +the yolks of four eggs and mix them with half a pint of +cream. Put the whole into a saucepan and set it over the +fire to simmer till thick; stir it well, and do not let it boil lest +it should curdle. Toast five pieces of bread and butter them; +when your dish is near boiling-point remove it from the fire +and pour it over the toast.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fried oysters.</strong>—Beat up the yolks of four eggs with three tablespoonfuls +of sweet oil, and season them with a teaspoonful +of salt and a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thoroughly. +Dry twelve fat oysters on a napkin; dip them in +the egg-batter, then in cracker-dust; shake off the loose +cracker-dust, dip them again in the egg-batter, and lastly +roll them in fine <i>bread-crumbs</i>. Fry in very hot fat, using +fat enough to cover them. The oil gives them a nice flavor. +(Private receipt of a prominent Philadelphia caterer.)</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Broiled oysters.</strong>—Rub the bars of a wire broiler with a little +sweet butter. Dry twelve large, fat oysters and place them +upon the broiler <i>plain</i>. Broil them over a clear fire, and +when done on both sides send to table on a piece of buttered +toast, with a little melted butter in a separate dish. Should +you <i>hanker</i> after a delightful case of dyspepsia cover them +with egg-batter and roll them in crumbs before broiling.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oysters a la Poulette.</strong>—Blanch a dozen oysters in their own +liquor; salt and remove the oysters; add a tablespoonful of +butter, the juice of half a lemon, a gill of cream, and a teaspoonful +of flour. Beat up the yolk of one egg while the +sauce is simmering; add the egg, and simmer the whole +until it thickens. Place the oysters on a hot dish, pour the +sauce over them, sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top, +and send to table. (This is a favorite dish of Hotel Brunswick +<i>habitués</i> in New York.)</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_8'>8</span> + <h2 id='SOUPS' class='c005'><i>SOUPS.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Sir Henry Thompson says “that soups, whether +clear or thick, are far too lightly esteemed by most classes. +They are too often regarded as the mere prelude to a meal, to +be swallowed hastily or disregarded altogether.” And the +<i>Almanach des Gourmands</i> tells us that ten folio volumes +would not contain the receipts of all the soups that have been +invented in the Parisian kitchen alone.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Soup Stock.</strong>—In making soups from raw meats break the +bones apart, place them in a pot, cover them with <i>cold water</i>, +and boil slowly for five or six hours; add salt to quicken the +rising of the scum, which should be thoroughly removed. Cut +up three carrots, three turnips, two heads of celery, and two +onions; add to the stock, together with six or eight cloves, +a bouquet of herbs, and a teaspoonful of whole peppers; strain +into a deep saucepan, and clarify with the white of egg. It +will then be ready for an indefinite variety of soups.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Veal Stock.</strong>—Chop up three slices of bacon and two +pounds of the neck of veal; place in a stew-pan with a pint +of water or beef stock, and simmer half an hour; then add +two quarts of stock, one onion, a carrot, a bouquet of herbs, +four stalks of celery, half a teaspoonful of bruised whole +peppers, and a pinch of nutmeg with a teaspoonful of salt; +boil gently for two hours, removing the scum in the meantime. +Strain into an earthen crock, and when cold remove +the fat. A few bones of poultry added, with an additional +quantity of water or stock, will improve it.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Veal Broth.</strong>—Stew a knuckle of veal in about three quarts +of water; add two ounces of rice, a little salt, and a blade of +mace; boil until the liquor is reduced one-half.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Gumbo Soup.</strong>—Cut up two chickens, two slices of ham, and +two onions into dice; flour them, and fry the whole to a +light brown; then fill the frying-pan with boiling water, stir +it a few minutes, and turn the whole into a saucepan containing +three quarts of boiling water; let it boil forty minutes, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_9'>9</span>removing the scum. In the meantime soak three pints +of ochra in cold water twenty minutes; cut them into thin +slices, and add to the other ingredients; let it boil one hour +and a half. Add a quart of canned tomatoes and a cupful of +boiled rice half an hour before serving.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Southern housekeepers use the leaves of the sassafras-tree +as a substitute for ochra when the latter is scarce and dear. +They gather the young leaves and spread them in the shade +for a few days; then they dry them in the sun. When they +are thoroughly dried they put them in a bag and hang them +up for two or three months; they are then pulverized and +bottled.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mock Turtle Soup.</strong>—Take half a calf’s head with the skin +on; remove the brains. Wash the head in several waters, and +let it soak in cold water for an hour. Put it in a saucepan +with five quarts of beef stock; let it simmer gently for an +hour; remove the scum carefully, take up the head, let it get +cold, and cut the meat from the bones into pieces an inch +square and set them in the ice-box. Dissolve two ounces of +butter in a frying-pan; mince a large onion and fry it in the +butter until nicely browned, and add to the stock in which +the head was cooked. Return the bones to the stock; simmer +the soup, removing the scum until no more rises. Put in a +carrot, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, a bouquet of herbs, a +dozen outer stalks of celery, two blades of mace, and the rind +of one lemon, grated; salt and pepper to taste. Boil gently for +two hours, and strain the soup through a flannel cloth. Mix +three ounces of Barlow’s prepared browned flour with a pint +of the soup, and simmer until it thickens; then add it to the +soup. Take the pieces of head out of the ice-box and add +to the soup; let them simmer until quite tender. Before +serving add a little Worcestershire sauce, a tablespoonful of +anchovy paste, a gobletful of port or sherry, and two lemons +sliced, each slice cut into quarters with the rind trimmed off. +Warm the wine a very little before adding it to the soup. +Keep in ice-box three or four days before using. Serve the +brains as a side-dish.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_10'>10</span><strong>Pea Soup.</strong>—Cut two large slices of ham into dice with a +sliced onion, and fry them in a little bacon fat until they are +lightly browned. Cut up one turnip, one large carrot, four +outer stalks of celery, and one leek into small pieces; add +these last ingredients to the ham and onion, and let them +simmer for fifteen minutes; then pour over them three +quarts of corned-beef water or hot water, and add a pint of +split peas which have been soaked in cold water all night; +boil gently until the peas are quite tender, stirring constantly +to prevent burning; then add salt and pepper to taste, +with a teaspoonful of brown sugar. Remove the soup from +the fire and rub through a sieve; if it is not thick enough +to suit your taste or fancy add a few ounces of flour mixed +smoothly in a little cold milk; return the soup to the fire, +and simmer for half an hour. Cut up four slices of American +bread into small dice, and fry the pieces in very hot fat +until nicely browned; place them on a napkin or towel, +and add a few of them to each plate or tureen of soup just +before it goes to table.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Economical Pea Soup.</strong>—Boil two quarts of green-pea hulls +in four quarts of water, in which beef, mutton, or fowl has +been boiled, four hours; then add a bunch or bouquet of +herbs, salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of butter, and a quart +of milk. Rub through a hair sieve, thicken with a little +flour, and serve with croutons, as in the foregoing receipt.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Tomato Soup.</strong>—Cut four ounces of ham into dice; slice +two onions and fry with ham in two ounces of butter; when +browned turn them into a saucepan containing three quarts +of stock or corned-beef water, and add three carrots, two +turnips, one red pepper (lady-finger), and a dozen outer +stalks of celery; simmer gently for one hour, then add a +quart of canned tomatoes; boil gently for another hour, rub +the whole through a sieve, and simmer again with the liquor +a few minutes; add salt and serve with croutons.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oxtail Soup.</strong>—Take two oxtails; cut them into joints, and +cut up each joint into four pieces; put them into a pan with +<span class='pageno' id='Page_11'>11</span>two ounces of butter, and fry them ten minutes. Slice two +onions, one turnip, two carrots, a dozen outer stalks of +celery, and fry in the same butter, with three slices of bacon +cut up fine; fry to a light brown. Turn the ingredients into +a saucepan with a quart of stock or ham-water, and boil +quickly for half an hour; then add two more quarts of stock, +a bouquet of herbs, two bay-leaves, a dozen whole peppers +crushed, a few cloves, and salt to taste.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Simmer until the meat is quite tender; then take it out, +strain the soup, skim off the fat, and thicken with two +ounces of Barlow’s prepared flour; return the meat to the +soup, add a tablespoonful of Worcestershire, a cupful of +sherry, and serve with grated rusks.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Soup.</strong>—Take three young male chickens; cut them +up, put them in a saucepan with three quarts of veal stock; +a sliced carrot, one turnip, and one head of celery may be +put with them and removed before the soup is thickened. +Let them simmer for an hour. Remove all the white flesh; +return the rest of the birds to the soup, and boil gently for +two hours. Pour a little of the liquid over a quarter of a +pound of the crumbs of bread, and when they are well soaked +put it in a mortar with the white flesh of the birds, and +pound the whole to a smooth paste; add a pinch of ground +mace, salt, and a little cayenne pepper, press the mixture +through a sieve, and boil once more, adding a pint of boiling +cream; thicken with a very little flour mixed in cold milk, +remove the bones, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Soup, No. 2.</strong>—Cut up one chicken; put into a +stew-pan two quarts of cold water, a teaspoonful of salt, and +one pod of red pepper (lady-finger); when half done add +two dessert-spoonfuls of well-washed rice. When thoroughly +cooked remove the bird from the soup, tear a part of the +breast into shreds (saving the balance of the fowl for a +salad), and add it to the soup with a wineglassful of cream.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Beef Tea.</strong>—Take half a pound of lean beef; cut it +up into small bits; let it soak in a pint of water three-quarters +<span class='pageno' id='Page_12'>12</span>of an hour, then put both into a quart champagne +bottle with just a suspicion of salt; cork tightly, and wire +the cork, so as to prevent its popping out. Set the bottle +into a saucepanful of warm water, boil gently an hour and a +half, and strain through a napkin.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Beef tea administered often to a patient without the fibrine +of the meat will tend to weaken instead of strengthening +the invalid. I always add about a teaspoonful of finely-chopped +raw meat to a goblet of the tea, and let it stand in +the tea about five minutes before serving.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='FISH' class='c005'><i>FISH.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Codfish is about the best fish that comes to our market, +but it is so cheap and plentiful that we do not appreciate it +quite as much as we would if the price was twenty-five cents +a pound and its <i>season</i> to last not over two months. Trout +and all delicate fish lose their flavor long before they reach +New York, and they should be eaten within half an hour +after they are caught; while the cod improves in flavor if +kept for a day or two with the addition of a little salt to +give it firmness.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The “shoulder part” pleases <i>my</i> palate the most. Have +you ever tried a codfish steak for breakfast, dredged in corn meal +and fried in salt pork-fat? It is splendid. A rasher +of bacon served with it does no harm.</p> + +<p class='c007'>In broiling cod, haddock, bass, etc., always tie them up +in a bag or towel, and lay the fish in the fish-pan, adding a +little salt, a pint of Rhine wine, or cupful of vinegar, and +cover the fish with <i>cold water</i>, allowing it to boil gently till +done. Drawn-butter sauce with boiled fish is easy to +make and pleases almost everybody.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Baked Cod.</strong>—When purchasing a four-pound cod ask your +fish-dealer to send you three or four “codfish-heads,” and +as soon as the basket comes into the house rub a little salt +<span class='pageno' id='Page_13'>13</span>on the fish, chop the heads into six pieces each, and sprinkle +a little salt over them. Place them in the centre of the baking-pan +(to be used as supports for the fish), with two ounces +of butter, one carrot, a turnip, a potato, and one onion cut +into slices, two blades of mace, a teaspoonful white pepper, +one tablespoonful celery-seed, six cloves, and a cupful of red +wine. Set the pan in the oven while you prepare the cod.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill +the fish; drain off the water and pound the bread to a paste; +mix with it two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two raw +eggs, a tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce, with salt and +pepper to taste. Put this stuffing inside the fish and sew it +up; place the cod in the pan with two or three pieces of butter +on the upper side of the fish, and baste it frequently; +when it is cooked lay the fish on a hot platter, and garnish +with fried oysters, if convenient. Add two tablespoonfuls of +Barlow’s prepared flour to the pan, a wineglass of sherry; +mix, and strain the gravy into a sauce-boat.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Salt Codfish with Cream.</strong>—Soak one pound and a half of +salt codfish over-night. Next morning set the fish to simmer +for about two hours; drain off the water and strip the +fish into shreds; place it in a saucepan with a quart of milk +and two ounces of butter; mix a tablespoonful of flour with +two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and add to the fish. Let the +whole come to a boil, remove the dish from the fire, beat up +one egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve immediately.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Salt Mackerel Broiled.</strong>—Soak a No. 2 chicken mackerel in +cold water over-night; pour off the water and let the fish +stand in milk enough to cover it for one hour before broiling; +baste the fish with butter, and broil. When done +plunge the fish into hot water for one minute, and send to +table with a dish of melted butter, the juice of one lemon, +and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley mixed together.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Broiled Lobster (for breakfast).</strong>—Cut the tail part of a lobster +in two, rub a little sweet oil over the meat, and broil. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_14'>14</span>When done brush a little butter over it, with the juice of half +a lemon and just the suspicion of cayenne. Place the meat +back into the shell, and send to table with a dish of broiled +tomatoes and a fresh-baked potato.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lobster en Brochette.</strong>—Cut up the tail of a lobster into +square pieces; take a few thin slices of bacon and cut into +lengths to match the pieces of lobster; place them on a +skewer alternately, and broil; baste as in “broiled lobster,” +and send to table on a bed of water-cress.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Baked Shad.</strong>—Make a dressing of bread-crumbs, butter, +pepper, and salt worked to a paste; fill the shad with the mixture, +sew it up, and place it lengthwise in a baking-pan with +a little water and an ounce of butter. Fill the space between +the fish and the sides of the pan with slices of raw +potatoes one-fourth of an inch thick, and serve fish and +potatoes together. Add a spoonful of Barlow’s prepared +flour to the gravy, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>“Tenderloin” Trout.</strong>—Take a large catfish and cut it up +into pieces two inches in length and one inch in thickness. +Beat up three eggs with a little salt and pepper and a teaspoonful +of Worcestershire; dip the fish in the egg-batter, +and roll in corn meal or bread-crumbs. Fry a deep brown, +garnish with lemon, parsley, or celery-tops, and send to table +with a cucumber salad.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fricasseed Eels.</strong>—Cut up three pounds of eels into pieces +of three inches in length; put them into a stew-pan, and +cover them with Rhine wine (or two-thirds water and one-third +vinegar); add fifteen oysters, two pieces of lemon, a +bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered, six cloves, three +stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne, pepper and salt to taste. +Stew the eels one hour; remove them from the dish; strain +the liquor. Put it back into the stew-pan with a gill of +cream and an ounce of butter rolled in flour; simmer gently +a few minutes, pour over the fish, and serve with a toasted +milk cracker.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_15'>15</span><strong>Soyer’s Boiled Salmon.</strong>—I always prefer dressing this fish +in slices from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it in +plenty of salt and water twenty minutes. The whole fish +may be boiled, but it requires longer boiling. Salmon eats +firmer by not putting it into water until it is boiling. Dress +the fish upon a napkin and serve with lobster sauce, or plain +melted butter with a few sprigs of parsley boiled a few +minutes in it.</p> + +<p class='c007'>I generally boil a salmon whole, or head and shoulders in +one piece, with salt, and cover the fish with equal parts of +warm water and Rhine wine, two or three bay-leaves, a few +cloves, etc. When done I use the water in making sauce by +reducing one-half, adding butter rolled in flour to thicken, +pinch of cayenne, and the juice of one lemon.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Eel Patties.</strong>—Take three medium-sized eels and cut them +up into inch pieces. Put them in a stew-pan, add salt, and +cover them with cold water. When the water comes to a +boil take them off the fire, wash them in cold water, scrape +off any fat that may adhere, return them to the stew-pan with +just enough hot water to cover them, and add a blade of mace, +a bay-leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley, and +one lemon cut into slices. Stew gently until the fish will +separate from the bone; remove the fish from the broth, pick +it into small pieces, and set them aside; reduce the broth a +little, strain, and thicken with flour and butter. Return the +fish to the broth, simmer a moment, fill your patties and +serve; make patty-shells as directed for oyster patties.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Drawn-Butter Sauce.</strong>—Season a cupful of flour with salt, +pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg, mix it with some water into +a paste, and work in a piece of butter about the size of an +egg; put the pan over the fire and boil for twenty minutes; +then take it off, add some fresh butter in small portions at a +time, stirring continually to prevent the butter from rising to +the top. Add the juice of half a lemon before serving.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Maitre d’Hotel Butter.</strong>—Mix four ounces of butter with a +heaping tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, +and the juice of three lemons; serve with boiled fish, etc.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_16'>16</span><strong>Anchovy Sauce.</strong>—An easy way of making anchovy sauce is +to stir two or three teaspoonfuls of prepared essence or paste +of anchovy (which may be bought at your grocer’s) into a +pint of melted butter; let the sauce boil a few minutes, and +flavor with lemon-juice.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lobster Sauce.</strong>—Break the shell of the lobster into small +pieces. Pour over them one pint of water or veal stock and +a pinch of salt; simmer gently until the liquid is reduced +one-half. Mix two ounces of butter with an ounce of flour, +strain the liquid upon it, and stir all over the fire until the +mixture thickens; do not let it boil. Add two tablespoonfuls +of the lobster meat, the juice of half a lemon, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The spawn and coral mixed with double the quantity of +butter, a little cayenne, and pounded in a mortar to a paste, +then pressed through a hair sieve, is called lobster-butter; a +spoonful of it added to the sauce will improve it; the rest of +the butter may be used in garnishing and decorating cold +salmon, etc.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Caper Sauce.</strong>—Chop up two tablespoonfuls of capers and +add them to half a pint of melted butter, with the piece of +one lemon, a teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce, and a pinch +of cayenne; put on the fire and simmer a few minutes; mix a +teaspoonful of flour with a very little cold water, and add to +the sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Celery Sauce.</strong>—Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, +melt it, and add two heads of celery cut up into inch pieces; +stir the celery in the pan until it is quite tender; add salt +and pepper, with a little mace. Mix a tablespoonful of flour +in a cupful of stock and simmer half an hour. A cupful of +cream may be used instead of the stock.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oyster Sauce.</strong>—Blanch one dozen oysters in their own +liquor; then take the oysters out and add two blades of mace, +an ounce of melted butter, and a cupful of thickened cream; +return the oysters to the sauce, let them come to a boil, and +serve; salt to taste.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_17'>17</span><strong>Oyster Sauce, No. 2.</strong>—Take a dozen large oysters and boil +them in their own liquor two minutes; remove them from +the liquid, and quarter them. Mix an ounce of butter and an +ounce of flour in a stew-pan, add the oyster liquor, a pinch +of cayenne or two drops tobasco pepper-sauce, with a little +nutmeg and half a pint of cream. Stir the whole gently +over the fire until the sauce is smooth and thick. Add the +pieces of oysters, simmer a moment longer, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Egg Sauce.</strong>—Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan +with a dessert-spoonful of flour and a very little water; simmer +gently. When ready to boil take the saucepan from +the fire and stir in two ounces more of butter and three cold +hard-boiled eggs cut up small; sprinkle a little salt on the +egg.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Dutch Sauce.</strong>—Blend together two ounces of butter and a +teaspoonful of flour; put it into a stew-pan with equal quantities +of stock and vinegar (from the bottle containing imported +mixed pickles), say a wineglassful of each; stir for +two minutes, and add the beaten yolks of two eggs, keeping up +the stirring till the mixture thickens; if you let it boil it +will curdle. Add the juice of half a lemon before serving.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Gravy for Baked Fish.</strong>—Brown a sliced onion in a little +butter and add gradually a pint of stock; thicken with a tablespoonful +of Barlow’s prepared flour, and let the mixture +simmer with a bunch of parsley nearly half an hour; strain +the gravy and add salt and a teaspoonful walnut-catsup.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='BOILING' class='c005'><i>BOILING.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Before boiling joints of meat the cook should think for a moment +whether she desires the juices to go into the water, as +in soup, gravies, etc., or to be retained in the meat itself. +If they are to be retained put the meat into fast-boiling +water, and let it boil for ten minutes to make the outside +hard and thus prevent the juice escaping; then add cold +<span class='pageno' id='Page_18'>18</span>water equal in quantity to about one-half of the boiling water; +this will reduce the temperature to about 160° (Liebig), at +which point the meat (raw) should be kept until thoroughly +done, which, however, takes a much longer time than the +ordinary mode. Care must be taken to remove the scum +when the water is on the point of boiling, or it will quickly +sink and spoil the appearance of the meat.</p> + +<p class='c007'>If it is desired to extract the juice from raw meat, cover +it with cold water and simmer slowly as before.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh meat.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Dried and smoked meat should be soaked for some hours +before it is put into the water. Place your meat in a saucepan +sufficiently large to contain the joint easily and cover +with water, and no more.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Leg of Mutton.</strong>—Cut off the shank-bone, trim the +knuckle, and wash the mutton; put it into a pot with salt and +cover with boiling water. Allow it to boil a few minutes; +skim the surface clean, draw your pot to the side of the fire, +and simmer until done. Time, from two to two hours and +a half.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Do not <i>try</i> the leg with a fork to determine whether it +is done or not. You will lose all the juices of the meat by so +doing.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Serve with caper sauce, or melted butter with a few small +capers added.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The liquor from the boiling may be converted into soup +with the addition of a ham-bone and a few vegetables boiled +together.</p> + +<p class='c007'>English housekeepers hang up a leg of mutton from two +days to at least a week before using, weather allowing.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Corned Beef.</strong>—Put your corned beef in a saucepan or pot +and cover with cold water; boil gently until done. Allow +half an hour to the pound after it has come to a boil.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The ingredients used in making a pickle for corned beef +harden the fibres of the meat, so that to plunge it into hot +water would not only make it tough and hard but indigestible.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_19'>19</span><strong>Boiled Tongue.</strong>—Soak a smoked or dry tongue over-night. +Next morning set it in a pot of water and simmer slowly for +five or six hours. Remove the pot from the fire, and when +the water has cooled take out the tongue, tear off the skin, +and trim off the ragged end.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Ham.</strong>—Soak the ham over-night; scrape off the +rusty spots, put into a pot, and cover with plenty of cold +water; add a bouquet of herbs and a few cloves to the water, +and boil very slowly until done; remove the pot from the +fire, and when cold take out the ham, take off the skin, trim +the fat off around the edge. Take half a cupful of brown +sugar, a teaspoonful of prepared browned flour, and moisten +with port wine; cover this paste over the fat of the ham, and +set it in a very hot oven until the mixture froths.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Chicken.</strong>—Wash a chicken in lukewarm water; truss +it, put it into hot water, let it come to a boil, then draw it +to one side of the fire and let it simmer gently until ready; +remove the scum as it rises. The more slowly it boils the +whiter and tenderer it will be. Add a very little salt, and +half a lemon cut into small pieces, to the water before boiling. +Serve with any white or cream sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Turkey.</strong>—Cassell’s work on cookery tells us that +“there is an old proverb which says that a turkey boiled is a +turkey spoiled, but in this couplet there is more rhyme than +reason, as a boiled turkey forms a dainty dish, most acceptable +to persons with delicate stomachs, who fear the richness +of the roasted bird.” Take a plump hen-turkey, singe, draw +it, and truss as you would to roast; make a stuffing of herbs, +salt, pepper, bread-crumbs, a little mace and grated lemon-peel, +with a few oysters chopped up, a spoonful of butter, and +a raw egg; mix your dressing well together, fill the bird, and +sew it up; tie up the turkey in a flowered cloth to make it +white, and simmer until tender. Time, about two hours and +a half.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Serve with oyster sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_20'>20</span><strong>Boiled Capon.</strong>—Boil a capon as you would a large chicken, +add a bouquet of herbs to the water, and serve with egg +sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'>When a boiled fowl has been so far used that meat slices +cannot be carved from it, the remains may be cut up for +hash, seasoned with salt and pepper, moistened with hot +water (or the water in which the fowl has been boiled); stir +the dish while it is simmering to prevent burning; serve on +a piece of buttered toast, and place two poached eggs on top +of the hash for each person. Or mince the remains of fowl +very fine with an equal quantity of calf’s brains or sweet-breads; +season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg; add a little +cracker-dust, two raw eggs; moisten with Rhine wine or +cream, mix well together, roll into balls the size of an egg, dip +into egg-batter, then into crumbs, and fry in very hot fat.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='ENTREES' class='c005'><i>ENTREES.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><strong>Fillet of Beef.</strong>—Cut the fillet (tenderloin) out of a sirloin of +beef; trim off the fat and the sack or skin, and lard it with +fat pork cut into narrow strips two inches long. Put each +strip of pork (or bacon) into a larding-needle, and with the +point of your needle take up as much flesh as will hold the +strip of pork, allowing about half an inch of each end exposed +after removing the needle; repeat this process as +neatly and as evenly as possible and at equal distances until +finished. Rub a little sweet oil and salt over the fillet; set +it one side a few minutes while you prepare the roasting +(baking) pan for it.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Chop up into small pieces a few beef or veal bones, and +cover the bottom of your pan with them. Add three slices +of bacon, two carrots, two onions, and one turnip sliced, +with a pint of stock. Season with salt, bruised whole peppers, +a bay-leaf, a few cloves, and a blade of mace. Place +the fillet in the pan with the larded side up. Moisten it with +<span class='pageno' id='Page_21'>21</span>a wineglassful of vinegar, and bake. When done remove +the fillet, add a tablespoonful of Barlow’s prepared flour and +a glass of sherry or port to the pan, mix, and strain the sauce +on to the fillet. Chop up half a dozen button-mushrooms, +sprinkle over the meat, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Beef a la Mode.</strong>—Take three pounds of fresh rump of beef; +remove the fat and sinews. Cut fat bacon into long strips and +lard the meat with it through and through. Mix together +a few cloves, mace, allspice, whole peppers, salt-spoonful of +cayenne, a tablespoonful of powdered herbs, and a clove of +garlic, with half a pint of vinegar. Put the meat into an +earthen crock or deep stew-pan, with a thin piece of bacon +under it; add the vinegar and seasoning and a pint of stock, +with a walnut of butter rolled in flour. Cover the crock and +simmer gently until done. When preferred vegetables may +be added and served with the beef, allowing plenty of stock +or water for them to boil nicely.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Beef Stew.</strong>—Take a three pound piece of rump of beef; remove +the bone, bind it up tight, and put it in a pot or stew-pan +that will just hold it. Season with ground spices. Fry +two large onions sliced, and add them to it, with two carrots, +two turnips, a few cloves, a blade of mace, a head of celery, +and a potato quartered; add stock enough to cover the +meat. Simmer as gently as possible until quite tender. +Remove the fat, take out the meat, and add half a pint of +port, a wineglassful of vinegar, a tablespoonful Worcestershire +sauce to the gravy; strain over the meat, and serve +with a garnish of assorted vegetables arranged neatly around +the dish.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Beefsteak Pie.</strong>—Cover the sides of a raised pie-mould with +butter, and put a lining of paste made in the following manner +neatly into it: Chop a quarter of a pound of suet; put +it into a stew-pan with the same quantity of butter and a +pint of water. When boiling pass them through a sieve into +two pounds of flour, and stir it with a spoon until cold. +When the paste is quite smooth roll it out and it is ready +<span class='pageno' id='Page_22'>22</span>for the lining. Cut up two pounds of round or rump steak +into pieces about two inches square; dust them with flour; +season with parsley, salt, and pepper; lay them round the +mould; fill it with alternate layers of potatoes cut into quarters, +and meat. Make a lid for the mould with some of the +paste, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake three hours. +Put an ornamental centre to the cover, that it may be more +easily raised to throw in some gravy as soon as it is baked.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Calf’s Head.</strong>—The first thing to do on receiving a calf’s +head is to remove the brains, throw them into cold water for +an hour, drain, then boil them in salt and water for twenty +minutes, and set them aside.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Put the head into cold water and wash it well, and leave +it there to draw out the blood for an hour; then take it out +and dry it well with a towel.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Bone a calf’s head in the following manner: Place the +calf’s head on the table with the front part of the head facing +you; draw the sharp point of a knife from the back part +of the head right down to the nose, making an incision down +to the bone of the skull; then with the knife clear the scalp +and cheeks from the bones right and left, always keeping the +point of the knife close to the bone. If you have not previously +removed the brains, chop the head in two and remove +them as carefully as possible.</p> + +<p class='c007'>When the head has been boned wash it well, wipe it with +a clean cloth, season the inside with salt and pepper, roll it +up with the tongue, tie it up, and blanch it in hot water for +ten minutes; then put it into cold water a few minutes, wipe +it dry, and set it aside until wanted.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fried Calf’s Head.</strong>—Cut the prepared calf’s head into +pieces two inches wide; lay them for three hours in a pickle +made of two tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a wineglassful of +Rhine wine, salt and pepper, and a pinch of mace. Take +them out, drain them, and dip each piece in egg-batter; +roll in cracker-dust, fry in hot fat, and send to table with +sauce tartare.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_23'>23</span><strong>Sauce Tartare.</strong>—Mince two small English pickles, one-fourth +of an onion, and a few sprigs of parsley together. +Add them to three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, and +the juice of half a lemon. Mix and serve (see mayonnaise +sauce). A few tarragon leaves will improve the sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Calf’s Head, Maitre d’Hotel.</strong>—Cut up your prepared calf’s +head into neat slices, and simmer gently for two hours; take +out the pieces of meat, place on a hot dish, and cover them +with Maitre d’Hotel sauce; garnish with parsley.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Calf’s Head Broiled.</strong>—Cut up a prepared calf’s head into +pieces quite three inches wide; place them in a saucepan, +cover with water. Add a wineglassful of vinegar, and simmer +half an hour; then place them in cold water a few +minutes, dry them on a towel, rub a little sweet oil over each +piece, and broil. When done brush melted butter over +them with the juice of half a lemon.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Calf’s Head Collared.</strong>—Bone a calf’s head carefully, wash it +well, and wipe it dry; lay the head on the table, and spread on it +a force-meat made of the brain and tongue, and a very little +ham mixed with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful +of thyme, a teaspoonful of marjoram, the minced +yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, a wineglassful brandy, and a +little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the head as tightly as possible, +and tie it in a cloth, binding it with tape. Put it into +a saucepan with stock enough to cover it, and add a carrot, +a parsnip, one onion, a sliced lemon, a few bay-leaves, salt, +and a dozen bruised peppers.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Let it boil gently three hours; then take it out of the cloth +and pour round it a sauce made of a pint of the liquid in +which it was boiled, with a little lemon-juice, two small +pickles, and four button-mushrooms chopped fine.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Calf’s Brains en Matelotte.</strong>—Wash the brains in several +waters, remove the skin, and boil them in salt and water with +a little vinegar in it for ten minutes. Take them out and +lay them in cold water until wanted. Melt a tablespoonful +of butter in a saucepan, and mix with it a teaspoonful of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_24'>24</span>flour. Add three button-onions sliced, a teaspoonful Worcestershire, +a clove, a bay-leaf, half a pint of stock, and a +wineglassful of Rhine wine. When these are mixed thoroughly +together put the brains with them and let them +stew twenty minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Calf’s Brains Fried.</strong>—Prepare the brains as in the foregoing +receipt. Cut them into slices, dip them in egg-batter, +roll in crumbs, and fry in hot fat or butter; garnish with +fried parsley.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Calf’s Brains and Tongue.</strong>—Prepare the brains as heretofore +recommended, and chop them. Put them in a saucepan +with two tablespoonfuls of butter, a little chopped +parsley, the juice of half a lemon, salt, and cayenne pepper. +Skin and trim the boiled tongue, place it in the middle of +the dish and pour the sauce and brains round it, and send +to table.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Stewed Sweet-Breads.</strong>—Soak two sweet-breads in cold +water for one hour; change the water twice; put them in +boiling water ten minutes till they are firm, then take them +out and place them in cold water until wanted.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Place them in a stew-pan, cover them with stock, and +simmer nearly an hour; take them out, place them on a hot +dish, remove the gravy from the fire a minute, and add to it +gradually the yolk of an egg and four tablespoonfuls of +cream; put this over a fire till the sauce thickens, but do not +let it boil. Before serving add the juice of a lemon, pour the +sauce around the sweet-breads, and send to table with a dish +of green peas.</p> + +<p class='c007'>They may be cut up and fried after dipping in egg and +rolled in crumbs.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Sweet-breads are very nice broiled and served with Maitre +d’Hotel butter; garnish with parsley.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Pork Chops, Tomato Sauce.</strong>—Broil three nice pork chops, +and when well done sprinkle them with pepper and salt, +place on a hot dish, and serve with tomato sauce poured +around them.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_25'>25</span><strong>Tomato Sauce.</strong>—Stew half a dozen tomatoes in a pint of +stock, with a slice of ham cut into dice, a bay-leaf, a blade +of mace, three drops of tabasco pepper-sauce, and three +small pickled onions; stir the whole over a gentle fire until +done, then press them through a sieve, add salt, and put the +sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Pork tenderloin baked or broiled is acceptable with sauce +Robert.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Sauce Robert.</strong>—Slice two onions, and fry them in butter +until they begin to turn yellow; pour over them as much +brown gravy as will cover them; add a tablespoonful of +French or German mustard (do not use English mustard), +a teaspoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper. Simmer +very gently, adding more gravy, if necessary, till the onions +are tender. Rub them through a fine sieve. Mix with the +pulp a very little more stock or gravy, and boil once. This is +a simple recipe, and one that any housekeeper can easily +make.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Pork Sausages.</strong>—The most wholesome way to cook sausages +is to bake them. Place them in a baking-pan in a single +layer, and bake in a moderate oven; turn them over when +they are half done, that they may be equally browned all +over. Send to table with pieces of toast between each sausage. +Cut the toast about the same size as the sausage, and +moisten it with a very little of the sausage-fat.</p> + +<p class='c007'>They make a nice entrée by placing them on a mound of +mashed potatoes and served with apple-sauce, or small apple-fritters +neatly arranged round them.</p> + +<p class='c007'>About the best sausages that come to the New York market +are the Deerfoot Farm sausages; fancy grocers retail them +for about twenty cents a pound. Split them in two and +broil them, and send to table with Boston brown bread toast, +buttered. Use your sausage-fat for frying hash, etc.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Breast of Mutton with Peas.</strong>—Cut up two pounds of the +breast of mutton into square pieces; put them into a stew-pan +with an ounce of butter, and brown them nicely; then cover +<span class='pageno' id='Page_26'>26</span>with hot water and stew for an hour. Take the meat from +the pan and skim all the fat from the gravy; place the meat +in a clean saucepan with one onion sliced, a bouquet of herbs, +pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, and stew for one hour; add +a quart of young peas, remove the herbs, simmer fifteen minutes, +and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>String beans cut into dice, or boiled macaroni, may be substituted +for the peas.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Curry of Mutton.</strong>—Put six button-onions, cut fine, and an +ounce of butter into a saucepan with an ounce of curry-powder, +a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of flour, and half a +pint of cream; stir until smooth. Remove the bones from +two pounds of mutton, cut it into neat pieces, and fry a light +brown; put the meat into a saucepan, pour the sauce over it, +and boil gently one hour and a half. Place the meat on a +hot dish and arrange a border of broiled rice neatly round it.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Cold boiled mutton cut into slices may be used instead of +the raw meat.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Veal may be used instead of mutton.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mutton Hash with Poached Eggs.</strong>—Take a pound and a +half of the remains of roast mutton, chop it up fine, and put +it in a stew-pan with a cupful of mutton gravy or stock; +season with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; add a +tablespoonful of Barlow’s prepared flour, and let the meat heat +gradually until hot. Do not let it boil. Simmer twenty minutes, +and serve with poached eggs placed neatly round the dish.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A spoonful of Worcestershire sauce may be added to the +dish, if desired.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Ragout of Mutton.</strong>—Slice two turnips, two carrots, and +two onions; put them in a saucepan with two ounces of +butter, and brown them. Dust in a little flour and stir the +whole to prevent browning too quickly, and turn them out +upon a hot dish until wanted.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Cut up cold roast mutton into square pieces, and brown +them on each side in the same pan in which you browned +your vegetables; then add half a pint of hot water, salt and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_27'>27</span>pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, and the sliced vegetables. +Stew gently until the vegetables are tender; arrange the +vegetables in the centre of the dish, with the meat as a border; +pour the sauce over all, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mutton Pie.</strong>—Cut into square pieces about two pounds of +cold roast or boiled mutton; trim off a portion of the fat; quarter +three kidneys; put the meat into a pie-dish, season with +two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of +powdered herbs, salt and pepper, and half an onion minced; +add half a pint of light stock or water, a wineglassful of port +wine; cover the dish with puff paste, brush an egg over it, and +bake an hour and a half.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Cold lamb makes a very nice pie.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Veal Croquettes.</strong>—Remove the gristle, skin, and sinews +from a pound of cold veal; mince it finely with four ounces of +cold boiled beef or calf’s tongue; season with salt, pepper, +and nutmeg. Put into a saucepan an ounce of butter rolled +in flour, a wineglassful of cream; add the minced meat, and +stir for twenty minutes over a slow fire. (If too dry moisten +with stock.) Turn the preparation upon a round pie-board; +spread it to a smooth layer about an inch thick, and set it in +the ice-box to get cold and stiff. It must then be divided +into about two dozen pieces, each piece rolled into the form +of a cork or round ball over bread-crumbs, then dipped in +beaten egg and again rolled in crumbs. Handle carefully so +as not to break them. Fry in boiling fat.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fricassee of Veal.</strong>—Take two pounds of lean veal free from +skin and bone, and cut it into pieces convenient for serving; +fry them in melted butter until the flesh is firm without +having acquired any color; dredge a tablespoonful of flour +upon them, add a little grated lemon-peel, and gradually as +much boiling veal stock as will cover the meat; simmer +until tender. Take out the meat and add to the gravy a gill +of boiling cream, salt, cayenne, and a pinch of powdered mace. +Beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl; add gradually a little +of the sauce (after it has cooled a few minutes), then add it +<span class='pageno' id='Page_28'>28</span>carefully to the remainder. Return the meat to the sauce, +and let the saucepan remain near the fire until the eggs are +set. Add the juice of half a lemon and serve immediately.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fricassee of Lamb.</strong>—Take a breast of lamb and cut it into +pieces about an inch and a half square; season with salt and +pepper. Put them into a saucepan, with a quartered onion, +three cloves, a bay-leaf, and three ounces of butter. Cover +the saucepan closely, and let it steam gently for half an hour, +shaking it occasionally to prevent sticking. Add a pint of +boiling water; cover closely once more and boil gently for +one hour; then strain the sauce and thicken with a tablespoonful +of flour (mix the flour smoothly with a little cold +water before adding it to the sauce), boil a moment longer, +and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A tablespoonful of very small A. G. capers may be added +before serving.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Breast of Lamb with Asparagus Tops.</strong>—Remove the skin +and part of the fat from a breast of lamb, and cut it into neat +pieces; dredge a little flour over them, and place them in a +stew-pan with an ounce of butter; let them remain until +nicely browned; cover the meat with warm water, add a +bunch of parsley, two button-onions; simmer until the meat +is cooked; skim off the fat, take out the onions and parsley, +and mince the latter finely; return it to the gravy with a +pint of the tops of boiled asparagus, add salt and pepper, +simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. Canned asparagus +may be used when the fresh vegetable is out of season.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fricassee of Chicken.</strong>—Take the remains of a cold chicken, +cut it into joints, make a gravy by simmering the trimmings +in stock enough to cover them, with one onion, stock with +three cloves, a bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper. Simmer +the gravy for one hour; strain and thicken a cupful of it +with a teaspoonful of flour; let this boil, then put in the +chicken. Draw the saucepan from the fire a few minutes, +mix a little of the sauce with the beaten yolks of two eggs +and a cupful of cream. Add this last mixture to the saucepan, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_29'>29</span>let it get hot, but on no account allow it to boil, or the +eggs will curdle. Serve with the sauce poured over the +chicken, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fried Chicken.</strong>—Take the remains of a cold chicken, place +it in a pan, and simmer with an ounce of butter, a finely-chopped +onion, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper; let +them simmer nearly half an hour; take the pieces out and +dredge them in flour, and fry in boiling fat; turn the pieces +over while cooking, and fry a deep brown.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Make a dressing of flour, mixed smoothly in a cupful of +cold milk and a little chopped parsley. Add to the pan that +the chicken simmered in, boil gently, strain over the chicken +and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken with Rice a la Maryland.</strong>—Cut up a chicken into +joints, and put it into a stew-pan with the heart, gizzard, and +liver, and a slice or two of bacon; cover with warm water, and +boil gently until the chicken is quite tender; then take the +meat out of the stew-pan, and set it where it will be kept +warm; wash half a pint of rice, add it to the gravy, season +highly with salt and pepper. When done place the rice +upon a dish, lay the chicken on top, and if too dry brush a +little melted butter over it.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Croquettes.</strong>—Pound the white meat of a cold +chicken with a cold boiled sweetbread in a mortar; add a +little salt, beat up an egg with a teaspoonful of flour and a +wineglassful of cream; mix the pounded meat with the +batter, put it in a saucepan, and simmer long enough to absorb +the moisture, <i>stirring all the time</i>; then turn it into a +flat dish, and set it in the ice-box to get cold and stiff, roll it +into balls or cones, dip in egg-batter, then roll them in +crumbs or cracker-dust and fry in boiling fat.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken a l’Italienne.</strong>—Take half a pound of La Favorita +macaroni, and boil it in water with a lump of butter. When +it has boiled a quarter of an hour, drain off the water and +cover the macaroni with milk; add salt and pepper and a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_30'>30</span>whole onion, stock with a few cloves; boil until the macaroni +is tender but unbroken.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Boil a chicken in the usual manner, cut it up and lay it +on a hot dish, pour the macaroni over it (remove the onion), +grate a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese over the dish, +and brown it in the oven or with a salamander.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Patties.</strong>—Pick the meat from a cold chicken, and +cut it up into small dice; place it in a saucepan with a cupful +of chicken stock, a cupful of cream, a piece of butter +the size of an egg, rolled in flour, salt and pepper, and a +little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel; simmer gently until it +begins to thicken, remove the dish from the fire a few +minutes to cool; beat up the yolks of two eggs with a half +teaspoonful flour, moistened in milk or cream, and add to the +saucepan, mix thoroughly, and draw towards the fire (but +do not let it boil) until it thickens; before serving add the +juice of half a lemon.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Fill your patty-shells with the mixture, one for each person, +and serve (see Oyster Patties for patty-shells).</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Pie.</strong>—Line the sides of a pie-dish with a good puff +paste. Have your chicken cooked as for a fricassee, seasoned +with salt and pepper and a little chopped parsley. When they +are nearly cooked lay them in a pie-dish with half a pound +of salt pork cut into inch squares, and some of the paste cut +into inch and a half pieces; pour in a part of the chicken +gravy, thicken with a little flour, and cover the dish with the +paste cover. Cut a hole the size of a dollar in the cover, and +cover it with a piece of dough twice the size of the hole +(when baked remove this piece occasionally and examine the +interior), brush egg over the pie, and bake in a quick oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Should the pie become dry pour in more of the gravy. +Pigeon Pie may be made by the above recipe.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Panada</strong> (Invalid cookery).—Take a fresh young +chicken and boil it until quite tender, in sufficient water to +cover it. Strip the meat from the bones and pound in a +mortar until quite smooth, with a little of the liquor it was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_31'>31</span>boiled in; add salt, nutmeg, and a very little grated +lemon-peel. Boil this gently for a few minutes, with sufficient +liquid to make it the consistency of custard.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken with Dumplings.</strong>—Disjoint one chicken, and put +to boil in cold water until done. Make dumplings with +one pint of flour, one teaspoonful of yeast-powder, and +same quantity of salt. Wet this mixture with milk and put +with chicken until boiled. Take them out and fry in hot +fat until brown; do same with chicken afterwards. Use +water in which chicken was boiled to make gravy.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Toast.</strong>—Take the remains of a cold chicken and +chop up fine, put in a saucepan, season with salt and pepper +and just a little onion, with a lump of butter; break over +the meat two or three raw eggs; stir all together, pour it +upon nicely-buttered toast, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Liver en Brochette.</strong>—Wash the livers in cold +water, dry them on a towel, and cut them in two; cut slices +of bacon into pieces about the same size, and put them on a +skewer alternately, and broil. When done brush over them +a sauce of melted butter, lemon-juice, pepper and salt.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Braise of Duck with Turnips.</strong>—Prepare a domestic duck as +for roasting. Line a small pan, just large enough for the +duck, with slices of bacon; strew over the bottom a little parsley, +powdered herbs, and lemon-peel; lay in the duck, and +add a carrot cut into strips, an onion <a id='t31'></a>stuck with a few cloves, +and a dozen whole peppers; cover with stock and add a table +spoonful of strong vinegar; baste frequently and simmer until +done. Fry some slices of turnip in butter to a light brown, +drain and add them to the stew-pan after removing the duck, +which should be kept hot. When the turnips are tender remove +them, strain the gravy, thickening if necessary with a +little flour or arrowroot; put the duck on a dish, throw +the hot gravy over it, and garnish with the turnips.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Braise of Duck with Peas.</strong>—Prepare and cook a duck as in +the above receipt, using green peas instead of carrots and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_32'>32</span>onion, and fry two onions in butter till they are of a pale +brown; boil them to a thick sauce with some of the duck +gravy; season with salt and pepper, and serve with the peas +around the duck and the gravy thrown over.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Salmi of Wild Duck.</strong>—Cut up the remains of two roast, underdone +wild ducks into neat pieces and set them aside. Take +the bones, giblets, and ragged pieces, and put them in a +stew-pan with a minced onion or shallot, a salt-spoonful salt; +and a very little cayenne; add a pint of stock and a glass +of port wine, boil gently half an hour, strain and thicken +the sauce with a teaspoonful of prepared brown flour. Put +the pieces of duck in a stew-pan, pour the sauce over them, +and simmer until quite hot. Add the juice of a sour orange +to the dish and serve. A garnish of olives is considered an +improvement by some. Soak the olives in cold water one +hour; remove the stones with a small vegetable-cutter and +add them to the sauce, before taking the dish from the +fire.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Salmi of Partridge, Hunter’s Style.</strong>—Take two cold roast +partridges, cut them into joints, and lay them in a saucepan +with two ounces of butter, a gill of Bordeaux or port, the +grated rind and juice of a large lemon, salt, and a little cayenne; +thicken with a little flour if desired; simmer gently +until very hot and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Venison Epicurean.</strong>—Cut a steak from the leg or a chop +from the loin of venison, about an inch and a half thick. +Put a walnut of butter, salt and pepper, into a chafing-dish; +light the spirit-lamp under it, and when the butter melts +put in the chop or steak; let it cook on one side a few minutes, +then turn it over, and add a wineglassful of sherry or +port and a tablespoonful of currant-jelly. Simmer gently +about seven minutes if it is to be eaten rare, and allow twelve +minutes cooking if required well done.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Hot plates and a glass of Mr. Clair’s old East India Madeira +are all that is requisite to make the feast Apician in character.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Venison Chops</strong>, broiled and served with currant-jelly, are +<span class='pageno' id='Page_33'>33</span>not to be despised. Trim the ends as you would a French +lamb-chop.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Breast of Venison</strong> may be dressed according to the receipt +given for breast of mutton.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Venison Patties.</strong>—Make a nicely-flavored mince of the remains +of cold roast venison; moisten it with a little sherry +or gravy, and warm it in a saucepan; fill the patty-shells with +the meat and serve. (See oyster patty for patty-shells.)</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Broiled Tripe.</strong>—Cut up honeycomb tripe into pieces of three +to four inches wide; rub a little oil or melted butter over +them, dredge them in flour, and broil over a charcoal fire; +squeeze a little lemon-juice over each piece, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Never broil tripe over a hard-coal fire; the gases arising +from the coal spoil the flavor of the tripe, making it indigestible +and unpalatable.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Tripe Lyonnaise.</strong>—Take a pound of cold boiled tripe and +cut it into pieces an inch square. Dissolve two ounces of butter +in a frying-pan, add a sliced onion to it, and fry until it +is tender. Put the pieces of tripe with the onion, a tablespoonful +of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of vinegar, salt, +and a little cayenne; heat all gently together. Cover the +bottom of a platter with tomato sauce, add the tripe and +serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Tripe Fricassee.</strong>—Cut up the tripe into square pieces; put +them into a stew-pan with a blade of mace, a bouquet of herbs, +an onion quartered, salt, and cayenne. Cover the tripe with +Rhine wine or water and a little vinegar; stew for one hour. +Strain the sauce; put the tripe and sauce in a clean saucepan, +with a walnut of butter rolled in flour, a gill of cream, +a tablespoonful chopped parsley. Simmer ten minutes, +squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Pork and Beans.</strong>—Wash a quart of beans thoroughly; cover +them with cold water and let them soak over-night. Change +the water in the morning once or twice. Then put them in +<span class='pageno' id='Page_34'>34</span>a pot and simmer slowly for three hours until they begin to +crack open; pour them into a colander to drain off all the +water. Heat an earthen bean-pot with hot water, and wipe +it dry; place a small piece of pork on the bottom of the pot +and pour in the beans. Cut the rind of another piece of +pork into strips, and sink it into the beans, leaving only +the rind of the pork exposed at the top. Dissolve a tablespoonful +of New Orleans molasses, with a teaspoonful of +salt, in a pint of warm water, and add it to the pot; set it +in the oven and bake slowly for three or four hours, or place +the pot in a baker’s oven over-night, instructing the baker to +add a little water to the pot should the beans become dry.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Serve with Boston brown bread.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Baked Macaroni.</strong>—For a small dish one-half pound macaroni, +boiled until soft, with a little salt in the water. Drain +through a colander; then put in the baking-dish, with one +pint and a half of milk, a lump of butter, pepper and salt, +and grated cheese (enough to suit taste), and distribute +over top. Bake in a hot oven until brown.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Rice Croquettes.</strong>—Put a quarter of a pound of Carolina +“head” rice, one pint of milk, three tablespoonfuls of powdered +sugar, a walnut of butter, and a teaspoonful of <i>best</i> extract +of vanilla into a saucepan; simmer gently until the +rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be boiled until +thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould it into croquettes. +Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes; turn it out on +a flat tin, and when cold and stiff form it into balls or cones; +dip these in beaten egg, roll lightly in crumbs, and fry in +hot fat or butter.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='VEGETABLE' class='c005'><i>VEGETABLE ENTREES.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><strong>Stuffed Tomatoes.</strong>—Take six ripe tomatoes of equal size; +cut off the tops and scoop out the insides; press the pulp +through a sieve and mix with it a little salt and cayenne, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_35'>35</span>two ounces of butter broken into little pieces, and two heaping +tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; fill the tomatoes with +the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Before serving +them brown the stuffing by holding a salamander or a small +shovel containing hot coals over them.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Any good force-meat may be used to stuff tomatoes; the +remains of game or poultry minced, and mixed with herbs +and bread-crumbs, seasoned and bound together with yolk +of egg, will suit the most fastidious.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Stuffed Egg-Plant.</strong>—Cut the egg-plant in two; scrape out all +the inside and put it in a saucepan with a little minced ham; +cover with water and boil until soft; drain off the water; +add two tablespoonfuls grated crumbs, tablespoonful butter, +half a minced onion, salt, and pepper; stuff each half of the +hull with the mixture; add a small lump of butter to each +and bake fifteen minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Stuffed Egg-Plant, No. 2.</strong>—Pare off the purple rind of the +egg-plant and quarter it; round off the edges as neatly as possible, +then place them in salt and water for an hour. Take +them out of the water, scrape out the centre, and mix it with +a force-meat of veal, bread-crumbs, seasoning, and yolk of +egg; put the mixture in the hollow egg-plant, with a lump +of butter upon the top of each, and bake a light brown.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Stuffed Potatoes.</strong>—Take a number of firm-skin potatoes of +equal size; clean them well and bake them. When done +cut off a piece of the end of each potato and scoop out as +much of the inside as can be obtained without injury to the +skin; mash it with cream and butter; add a little salt; set +the dish on the range to keep hot. Take the whites of three +eggs, whip them to a froth, and add to the potatoes; mix all +together; simmer until quite hot; fill up the skins with the +potato paste; fasten the covers with white of egg, and bake +fifteen minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Potato Balls.</strong>—Boil a small potful of potatoes; wash them +well, and mix with them butter, salt, chopped parsley or +chives, grated nutmeg, and two raw eggs; work the paste into +<span class='pageno' id='Page_36'>36</span>small balls, dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker-dust or flour, +and fry.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Potato Cake.</strong>—Take half a pound of dry mealy potatoes, +either baked or boiled; mash them until they are free from +lumps; mix with them three ounces of flour, salt and pepper, +and as much lukewarm milk and butter as will make a +smooth, firm dough; add one egg and half a teaspoonful of +Royal Baking Powder. Roll the paste out with a rolling-pin +till it is nearly two inches thick; dredge a little flour +over it, and cut it out the exact size of the frying-pan. +Rub the pan over with butter; lay the cake carefully into +it; cover with a plate; shake it every now and then to prevent +it burning; when it is half done on one side turn it over +carefully on the other. Serve on a hot dish with plenty of +good fresh butter.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Cold potatoes, if dry and mealy, may be warmed up in this +manner.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Sweet potatoes make very good potato cake.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Potato Fritters.</strong>—Burst open four nicely-baked potatoes; +scoop out the insides with a spoon, and mix with them a +wineglassful of cream, a tablespoonful of brandy, two tablespoonfuls +of powdered sugar, the juice of one lemon, half a +teaspoonful of Thurber’s best extract vanilla, and the well-beaten +yolks of four and the whites of three eggs; beat the +batter for several minutes until it is quite smooth, and drop +large tablespoonfuls of the mixture into boiling fat, and fry a +light brown; dust powdered sugar over them, and send to +table.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Parsnip Fritters.</strong>—Boil four good-sized parsnips in salted +water until tender; drain them, beat them to a pulp, and +squeeze the water from them as much as possible; bind them +together with a beaten egg and a little flour. Shape them +into cakes, and fry in hot fat.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oyster-Plant Croquettes.</strong>—Wash, scrape, and boil the oyster-plant +till tender; rub it through a colander, and mix with +the pulp a little butter, cream, salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_37'>37</span>mix the ingredients thoroughly together to a smooth +paste, and set the dish in the ice-box to get cold; then shape +it into small cones, dip them in beaten egg and roll in crumbs, +and fry crisp and brown.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fritters.</strong>—The following receipt will serve for many kinds +of fruit or vegetable fritters: Make a batter of ten ounces of +flour, half a pint of milk, and two ounces of butter; sweeten +and flavor to taste; add a glass of brandy, rum, or sherry; +stir in the whites of two eggs well beaten; dip the fruit in the +batter, and fry. Small fruit and vegetables should be mixed +with the batter.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Arrowroot for Batters and Sauces.</strong>—Arrowroot may be used +to thicken batters, sauces, etc., for those who object to butter, +as invalids very often do. Mix a tablespoonful of Beatty’s +Bermuda Arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, and +stir it into a pint of the batter or sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Omelettes.</strong>—Numerous kinds of omelettes may be served as +the last entrée, and, if properly made, they generally give satisfaction. +As a rule an omelette is a wholesome, inexpensive +dish, but yet one in the preparation of which cooks frequently +fail owing to ignorance of detail. The flavoring and the +ingredients used may be varied indefinitely, but the process +is always the same. In making an omelette care should be +taken that the frying-pan is hot and dry. The best way to +ensure this is to put a small quantity of fat into the pan, let +it simmer a few minutes, then pour it out; wipe the pan dry +with a towel and put in a little fresh fat, in which the omelette +should be fried; care should be taken that the fat does +not burn, thereby spoiling the color of the omelette.</p> + +<p class='c007'>It is better to make two or three small omelettes than one +large one. The eggs should be but slightly beaten, just long +enough to mix them, and no more; a tablespoonful of cream to +every two eggs will be found an improvement. Salt <i>mixed</i> with +the eggs prevents them from rising and gives the omelette a +flabby appearance; without salt your omelette will taste +<span class='pageno' id='Page_38'>38</span>insipid; sprinkle a little salt on the omelette just before turning +out on the dish.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oyster Omelette.</strong>—Stew six oysters in their own liquor; remove +the oysters and thicken the liquid with butter rolled in +flour; season with salt, cayenne, and mix with it a teaspoonful +chopped parsley. Chop up the oysters and add them to +the sauce; simmer gently until the sauce thickens. Beat +three eggs lightly with a tablespoonful and a half of cream, +and fry until they are delicately set; before folding over put +a few spoonfuls of the mixture in the centre; turn it out +carefully on a hot dish, with the balance of the sauce round +it, and serve immediately.</p> + +<p class='c007'>If small oysters are used put them in the centre of the +omelette, whole, fold and serve with sauce round it.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Rum Omelette.</strong>—Fry an omelette in the usual way; fold it +with a little salt, and turn it out on a hot dish; dust sugar +over it, and singe the sugar into stripes with a hot iron rod; +pour a wineglassful of warm rum round the omelette, set a +light to it, and send to table flaming.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Omelette Souffle.</strong>—Break six eggs into separate cups; beat +four of the yolks, and mix with them a teaspoonful of flour, +three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, very little salt, and +any flavoring extract that may be preferred. Whisk the white +of the six eggs to a firm froth; mix them lightly with the +yolks; pour the mixture into a greased pan or dish, and bake +in a quick oven. When it is well risen and lightly browned +on the top it is done; take it out of the oven, dust a little +powdered sugar over it carefully, and send to table immediately. +It must be served in the same dish in which it is +baked.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Welsh Rarebit.</strong>—Select the richest and best American factory +cheese—the milder it is the better, as the melting brings +out the strength. To make five rarebits take one pound of +cheese, grate it, and put it in a tin or porcelain-lined saucepan; +add ale enough to thin the cheese sufficiently, say about a +wineglassful to each rarebit; stir until all is melted. Have a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_39'>39</span>slice of toast ready for each rarebit (crusts trimmed); put a +slice on each plate, and pour cheese enough over each piece to +cover it. Eat while hot.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>To make a “Golden Buck.”</strong>—A “Golden Buck” is merely +the addition of a poached egg, which is put carefully on the +top of the rarebit.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“<strong>Yorkshire Rarebit.</strong>”—This is the same as a “Golden +Buck,” only it has two thin slices of broiled bacon on the top.—<i>George +Browne, in Thurber’s Epicure.</i></p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='small'>[See Vegetables, page <a href='#Page_90'>90</a>.]</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='ROASTING' class='c005'><i>ROASTING.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>Roasting is an excellent method of rendering food wholesome +and nourishing. Without making any great change in +the chemical properties of meat it renders it more tender and +highly flavored, while there is not so much waste of its nutritive +juices as in baking. But where can the average American +get a slice of <i>roast</i> beef? Our homes are not provided with +spits, bottle-jacks, Dutch ovens, and the like; and as a very +sensible writer in the New York <i>Times</i> stated, “ninety-nine +<i>roasts</i> in the United States are baked in ovens, and +there is no help for it.” I can see no possible way out of the +dilemma but to submit gracefully to baked meats for ever. +The leading hotels and restaurants overcome the difficulty +by purchasing the very best of beef, and keeping it from +eight to fifteen days in their ice-houses. Thus the excellent +quality of the beef overcomes, in a measure, the bad effects +created by the superheated volatile portions that escape from +the beef during the process of baking.</p> + +<p class='c007'>No finer, better, or sweeter piece of meat was ever tasted, +either in England or America, than the Astor House roast +beef; and the secret is in securing the best quality, and taking +proper care of it before submitting it to the oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Beef.</strong>—The best roasting-pieces are the fore and middle +ribs and the sirloin. The chuck-ribs, although cheaper, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_40'>40</span>are not as profitable to families, there being too much waste +in the carving of them. The ends of the ribs should be removed +from the flank, and the latter folded under the beef +and securely fastened with skewers. Rub a little salt into +the fat part; place the meat in the dripping-pan with a pint +of stock or water; baste freely, and dredge with flour half +an hour before taking the joint from the oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Should the oven be very hot place a buttered paper over +the meat to prevent it scorching while yet raw, in which case +it will need very little basting; or turn the rib side up towards +the fire for the first twenty minutes. The time it will +take in cooking depends entirely upon the thickness of the +joint and the length of time it has been killed. Skim +the fat from the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared +brown flour and a glass of sherry to the remainder.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Loin of Veal.</strong>—Make an incision in the flank or skirt +of the loin of veal, and into the cavity thus made, just over +the end of the bone, put a well-flavored veal force-meat. Roll +in the flank to cover the kidney-fat, and bind it firmly with +string or tape. Place a few small veal bones with a few assorted +vegetables, cut up, in a dripping-pan; put the loin +upon this bed, add half a pint of stock or water, and set it in +the oven for twenty minutes; in the meantime work together +a tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of melted +butter; draw the joint from the oven, baste it with the flour +and butter, return it to the oven again, and baste occasionally +until done.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Veal should be thoroughly done. When it is underdone +it is decidedly indigestible and should be avoided.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The breast of veal boned, with a layer of force-meat spread +over the inside and rolled and tightly bound, may be substituted +for loin of veal.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mutton.</strong>—The choicest mutton in the United States comes +from the mountainous regions of Pennsylvania. The animals +are semi-domestic and almost as shy and as timid as a +deer. In 1878 Col. Duffy, one of Pennsylvania’s fish commissioners, +dined a party of English gentlemen on mountain-mutton, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_41'>41</span>and they pronounced it the finest-flavored morsel of +<i>venison</i> they had ever eaten.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Leg of Mutton.</strong>—Take a leg of well-kept mutton, +rub it lightly with salt, and put it in a dripping-pan with a +very little water; cut a potato in two lengthwise, and set +it under the leg; baste with a little good dripping at first, +and when within twenty minutes of being done, dredge it +with flour to get it frothed. Turn the joint two or three +times while cooking. Time, about a quarter of an hour to +the pound.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Loin of Mutton.</strong>—Follow the directions given for roast leg +of mutton, but trim off all unnecessary fat, cover the joint +with paper until within twenty minutes of its being done, +then remove, baste, and flour slightly; serve with currant-jelly. +If properly cooked and served <i>hot</i> it is a royal dish, but +if the fat is not turned to account, a very expensive one.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lamb.</strong>—Put a four or five pound joint of lamb in a dripping-pan +with a gill of stock or water; salt and pepper; +roll two ounces of butter in a very little flour, divide it +into small pieces, and add it here and there upon the +meat; set the pan in a moderate oven, and baste frequently +until done.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Skim the fat from the gravy, and serve with the lamb; or +serve mint sauce with the joint.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mint Sauce.</strong>—Wash the sprigs of mint, let them dry on a +towel, strip off the leaves, and chop them very fine; put in +a sauce-boat with a cupful of vinegar and four lumps of +sugar; let it stand an hour, and before serving stir all together. +Mint sauce, if bottled, will keep for some time, and be +just as good, if not better, than it was the first day.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Saddle of Lamb.</strong>—A saddle of lamb is a dainty joint for a +small party. Sprinkle a little salt over it, and set it in +the dripping-pan, with a few small pieces of butter on the +meat; baste it occasionally with tried-out lamb-fat; dredge +<span class='pageno' id='Page_42'>42</span>a little flour over it a few minutes before taking from the +oven. Serve with the very best of currant-jelly, and send to +table with it a few choice early vegetables. Mint sauce may +be served with the joint, but in a very mild form.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Pork.</strong>—Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be +chosen with the greatest care. The pig, from its gluttonous +habits, is particularly liable to disease; and if killed and +eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who partake of +it will probably pay dearly for their indulgence. Dairy-fed +pork is the best; and knowing this fact, a number of our +first-class hotels raise their own pork on farms connected +with their country residences. Among them may be mentioned +the Continental Hotel, Philadelphia; the Astor, Union +Square, Sturtevant, Hoffman, Fifth Avenue, Windsor, and +several other leading hotels in New York City. We are indebted +to Chas. Lamb for the history of roast pig. In his +essays he says: “The art of roasting, or rather broiling (which +I take to be the elder brother), was accidentally discovered in +the manner following: The swineherd Ho-ti, having gone +out into the woods one morning, as his manner was, to collect +mast for his hogs, left his cottage in the care of his eldest +son, Bo-bo, a great, lubberly boy, who, being fond of playing +with fire, let some sparks escape into a bundle of straw, +which, kindling quickly, spread the conflagration over every +part of their poor mansion till it was reduced to ashes. +Together with the cottage, what was of much more importance, +a fine litter of new farrowed pigs, no less than +nine in number, perished. Bo-bo was in the utmost consternation, +as you may think, not so much for the sake of +the tenement—which his father and he could easily build up +again with a few dry branches, and the labor of an hour or +two, at any time—as for the loss of the pigs. While he was +thinking what he should say to his father, and wringing his +hands, an odor assailed his nostrils unlike any scent which +he had before experienced. What could it proceed from? +Not from the burnt cottage; he had smelt that before. Indeed, +this was by no means the first accident which had occurred +<span class='pageno' id='Page_43'>43</span>through the negligence of this unlucky firebrand. +A premonitory moistening at the same time overflowed his +nether lip. He knew not what to think. He next stooped down +to feel the pig, if there were any signs of life in it. He burnt +his fingers, and to cool them he applied them in his booby +fashion to his mouth. Some of the crumbs of the scorched +skin had come away with his fingers, and for the first time +in his life (in the world’s, indeed, for before him no man +had known it) he tasted—<i>crackling</i>! Again he felt and +fumbled at the pig. It did not burn him so much now; +still, he licked his fingers from a sort of habit. The truth +at length broke into his slow understanding that it was the +pig that smelt so and the pig that tasted so delicious; and +surrendering himself up to the new-born pleasure, he fell to +tearing up whole handfuls of the scorched skin, with the +flesh next it, and was cramming it down his throat in his +beastly fashion when his sire entered amid the smoking +rafters, and, finding how affairs stood, began to rain blows +upon the young rogue’s shoulders as thick as hailstones, +which Bo-bo heeded not any more than if they had been +flies. The tickling pleasure which he experienced in his lower +regions had rendered him quite callous to any inconveniences +he might feel in those remote quarters. Bo-bo’s scent, being +wonderfully sharpened since morning, soon raked out +another pig, and, fairly rending it asunder, thrust the +lesser half by main force into the fists of Ho-ti, still shouting +out, ‘Eat, eat! Eat the burnt pig, father! Only taste!’ +It is needless to state that both father and son despatched +the remainder of the litter. Bo-bo was strictly enjoined not +to let the secret escape. Nevertheless strange stories got +about; it was observed that Ho-ti’s cottage was burnt down +now more frequently than ever. As often as the sow farrowed, +so soon was the house of Ho-ti seen to be in a blaze. +At length they were watched, the terrible mystery discovered, +and father and son summoned to take their trial at Peking, +then an inconsiderable assize town. Evidence was given, +the obnoxious food itself produced in court, and verdict +about to be pronounced, when the foreman of the jury +<span class='pageno' id='Page_44'>44</span>begged that some of the burnt pig of which the culprit +stood accused might be handed into the box. He handled +it, and they all handled it; and burning their fingers as +Bo-bo and his father had done before them, and nature +prompting to each of them the same remedy, against the face +of all the facts and the clearest charge which judge had ever +given, to the surprise of the whole court, townsfolk, strangers, +reporters (they had Howards and Raymonds in those days), +and all present, without leaving the box, or any manner of +consultation whatever, they brought in a simultaneous +verdict of not guilty.”</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Dr. Kitchiner on Pork.</strong>—“Take particular care it be done +enough. Other meats underdone are unpleasant, but pork is +absolutely uneatable; the sight of it is enough to appall the +sharpest appetite, if its gravy has the least tint of redness. +Be careful of the crackling; if this be not crisp, or if it be +burned, you will be scolded.”</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>The Turkey.</strong>—The turkey, says Brillat-Savarin, “is the +largest, and, if not the most delicate, at least the most +savory of domestic poultry. It enjoys the singular advantage +of assembling around it every class of society. When +our farmers and wine-growers regale themselves on a winter’s +evening, what do we see roasting before the kitchen fire, +close to which the white-clothed table is set? A turkey! +When the useful tradesman or the hard-worked artist invites +a few friends to an occasional treat, what dish is he +expected to set before them? A nice roast turkey stuffed +with sausage-meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our highest +gastronomical society, when politics are obliged to give +way to dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, +what is awaited, what is looked out for at the second +course? A truffled turkey. In my ‘Secret Memoirs’ I +find sundry notes recording that on many occasions its restorative +juice has illumined diplomatic faces of the highest +eminence.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>Now, the average American could not be induced to eat a +turkey stuffed with sausage-meat; he would naturally say +<span class='pageno' id='Page_45'>45</span>that if the useful tradesman “or the hard-working artist” +experienced any pleasure over such a compound, he was welcome +to it; to him sausage-meat was too suggestive of pork +and—mystery. But the Lyons chestnuts—ah! yes, that will +do, for he has tasted chestnut stuffing and has learned to +like it. A dissertation on truffles, while waiting for the +“truffled turkey” to be served, is all that is necessary to +make him say he is passionately fond of them in any form, +otherwise he would be apt to ask the waiter to remove the +dressing from his plate, “as it was full of small pieces of +charcoal” (an actual occurrence).</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Turkey.</strong>—Singe the bird, and in drawing it preserve +the heart, gizzard, and liver; remove the gall-bag from the +liver, and be very careful not to break it, as if any of the +liquid touches the bird no amount of washing will remove +the bitter taste. Cut off the neck close to the body, and before +doing so push back the skin of the neck so that sufficient +may be left on to turn over the back; remove a part of +the fat adhering to the skin; split the breast-bone from the +inside, or place several folds of cloth on the high breast-bone +and break and flatten it a little with a rolling-pin to make +the bird look plump. Fill the breast and body with stuffing; +sew up the opening with coarse thread; turn the neck-skin +over the back and fasten it; truss the legs close to the breast, +the wings turn over the back, using skewers or twine to hold +them in proper position. Put the turkey in the dripping-pan +with a little hot water, dredge it with flour, and lay a few +small pieces of butter upon it, and the feet, scalded and +scraped, under it. Baste frequently. Time, from two to three +hours, according to the size of the bird.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Should he prove to be of doubtful age and rich in spurs +and scaly feet, parboil him. Put him in a saucepan or pot, +cover with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and when +the water comes to a boil take out the bird and dry it well +before stuffing it.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chestnut Stuffing.</strong>—Roast a pint of chestnuts and peel off +the outer and inner skin; weigh them, and simmer half a pound +<span class='pageno' id='Page_46'>46</span>of them for twenty minutes in as much veal gravy as will +cover them; drain and let them cool; then pound them in a +mortar with four ounces of butter, three ounces of bread-crumbs, +a trifle of grated lemon-peel and powdered mace, +salt, and a pinch of cayenne; bind the mixture with the yolks +of three eggs.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Chestnuts roasted or boiled may be added to almost any +stuffing for fowl, etc., and give general satisfaction. I once +made a stuffing of chestnuts, apple-sauce, bread-crumbs, and +the proper seasoning for a ’possum, and all who tasted of it +pronounced it a dainty dish. One of the party, Dr. H——, +never tires of talking about “that ’possum with the chestnuts.”</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oyster Stuffing.</strong>—Remove the heart (or what some call the +eye) from two dozen oysters, mince them finely, pound them +to a paste, and mix with them five ounces of bread-crumbs, an +ounce of butter, the grated rind of half a lemon, a tablespoonful +of chopped parsley, a pinch of cayenne, an even teaspoonful +of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. When well +mixed bind the mixture with the yolk of an egg and a small +quantity of the oyster liquid added gradually.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Bread Stuffing.</strong>—Grate sufficient bread to fill the bird; moisten +it with milk, and season with salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, +and the grated rind of one lemon. Add a tablespoonful +of butter, and bind the mixture with yolk of egg. Add a +few raw whole oysters, if desired.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Capon.</strong>—They should be managed in the same way +as turkeys, and served with the same sauces. I cannot quite +come to the conclusion that a roast capon is equal in flavor to +one boiled and served with egg sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Chicken.</strong>—Singe your chickens and truss them carefully. +Broilers, as they are called, are better without stuffing, +unless they are very large. Season with salt, put small +bits of butter over the meat, and place them in the pan with +a little water or veal stock; baste occasionally and dredge +<span class='pageno' id='Page_47'>47</span>with flour before taking from the oven. A few tarragon +leaves with the sauce are acceptable.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A spring chicken cooked in any style is not to be despised +by any means, but I quite agree with that appreciative epicure, +Mr. Sam Ward, when he said:</p> + +<div class='lg-container-b c009'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“To roast spring chickens is to spoil ’em;</div> + <div class='line'>Just split ’em down the back and broil ’em.”</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Pigeon.</strong>—Raise the skin from the breast-bones of the +pigeons with your finger; make a small quantity of finely-flavored +stuffing, and stuff it between the skin and flesh, using +care not to break the skin. Fasten a long, thin slice of +bacon over the breasts of the birds with toothpicks; put them +in a dripping-pan with a little water, and dredge with flour. +When done remove the bacon, set them neatly around the +edge of a dish, fill the centre with new green peas or Godillot +French peas, and serve. (A favorite dish of the members +of the Club of Lindenthorpe, on the Delaware.)</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Domestic Duck.</strong>—Americans, as a rule, do not take +kindly to domestic duck, owing to its peculiar flavor and +richness, and also to the fact of the bird being usually accompanied +with a very highly-seasoned onion stuffing. Nevertheless, +a young domestic duck stuffed with a bread stuffing +seasoned with salt, pepper, sage, and a <i>suspicion</i> of onion, is +a dish that should often appear upon the tables of our +American families. A pair of ducklings with no other stuffing +than an onion placed inside the birds while roasting, and +removed before serving, will make a splendid dinner for a +family of five or six. Serve with apple-fritters or apple-sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Goose.</strong>—Singe, draw, and truss the goose, and, if an +old one, parboil it. The best stuffing for a goose is a sage-and-onion +stuffing. The way in which this is made must depend +upon the taste of those who have to eat it. If a strong +flavor of onions is liked the onion should be chopped raw. +If this is not the case they should be boiled in one or two +waters, and mixed with bread-crumbs, powdered sage, salt +<span class='pageno' id='Page_48'>48</span>and pepper, nutmeg, and two small apples chopped fine; fill +the bird with the stuffing, sew it up with coarse thread, +sprinkle salt over it, and set it in a pan with a little warm +water; baste frequently, and do not take it from the oven +until thoroughly cooked.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Ham a la Russe.</strong>—If the ham be hard and salty soak it for +several hours. If a fresh-cured Ferris ham it will not need +soaking. Trim and cut away all the rusty parts, and cover +it with a coarse paste of flour and water half an inch +thick, and fasten it securely to prevent the juice escaping. +Time, from three to four hours, according to size of the ham. +Remove the paste and skin while the ham is hot, cover the +fat with a sugar paste (see boiled ham) moistened with port, +and return it to the oven a few minutes to brown.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The Continental Hotel, Philadelphia, makes a specialty of +<i>Ham à la Russe</i>, and it is a splendid dish served with +champagne sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Canvas-Back Duck.</strong>—Pluck, draw, and singe the duck; wipe +out the blood from the inside with a clean towel; cut off the +head and neck, and put them in the body of the duck, allowing +the head to protrude. Sprinkle a little celery-salt over +the breast, with a bit of butter; put it on a small buttered +pan, and set it in the oven for seventeen minutes. Serve +with currant-jelly.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A few outer stalks of celery placed inside the duck will +improve its flavor.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A red-head duck stuffed with grated bread, chopped celery, +seasoning, and mixed with yolk of egg, will taste very much +like a canvas-back.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A blue-winged teal duck is very nice broiled. Cut it down +the back, brush a little melted butter over it, and broil, keeping +the inner part of the duck to the fire most of the +time. To roast a teal place a strip of bacon over the breast +and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Venison.</strong>—Take a leg of well-kept venison, wipe it +thoroughly, rub a little salt over it, and dredge with flour. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_49'>49</span>Place it in a dripping-pan with the ragged pieces you have +trimmed off of it, and a little water or wine. Put small bits +of butter here and there over the meat, set it in the oven, and +baste frequently till done. If the leg is not very fat it is a +good plan to lard it with strips of bacon or pork. Serve +with currant-jelly, and don’t forget the hot plates.</p> + +<p class='c007'>I am not a lover of venison à l’Anglaise, for I do not fancy +the flour paste daubed over the meat as most English cooks +prepare it, though the buttered paper is an advantage when +cooking large joints of game.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Prairie Chicken.</strong>—The bird being a little strong, +and its flesh when cooked a little dry, it should be either +larded or wide strips of bacon or pork placed over its breast. +A mild seasoned stuffing will improve the flavor of old +birds. Dust a little flour over them, baste occasionally, +and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Pheasants may be managed in the same manner.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Quail.</strong>—Pluck and draw the birds, rub a little butter +over them, tie a strip of bacon over the breasts, and set +them in the oven for twenty to twenty-five minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Woodcock.</strong>—Pluck the bird carefully, do not cut +off the head or draw the trail; punch a few holes in the +back of the bird with a fork, and lay it in the pan on a piece +of buttered toast. A little salt is all the seasoning required. +Time, twenty minutes. A woodcock is the only gamebird +I send to table without currant-jelly; its own fine +flavor needs no bush.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roast Snipe.</strong>—Pluck and draw the snipe, preserving the +trail and head; tie a thin strip of bacon over the breast; +chop up the trail and spread it on buttered toast (one slice +for each bird); lay the birds in the pan with the toast between +them, and roast twenty minutes. Remove the bacon, +place the birds on the toast, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Rail-Birds.</strong>—Rail-birds are decidedly inferior to either +snipe or woodcock. They should be skinned, as much of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_50'>50</span>their rankness lies in the skin. The trail is a trifle too +strong for the average American palate. They make a very +good pie; manage them as you would snipe for roasting, +broiling, etc.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Reed-Birds.</strong>—These delicious “lumps of sweetness,” as +they are appropriately called, are always acceptable, but to +thoroughly appreciate a reed-bird dinner one must mingle +with the gunners on the Delaware River as guest or member +of one of the many clubs whose houses are situated +within a few hundred yards from the hunting-grounds.</p> + +<p class='c007'>After the judge’s decision as to who has <i>high boat</i>, the +birds are plucked (and, at some of the club-houses, drawn), +arranged neatly in a dripping-pan with bits of fresh country +butter between them. They are allowed to cook on +one side a few minutes, and with a long-handled spoon are +turned over to brown the other side. A little salt is added, +and they are then placed upon a hot platter <i>en pyramide</i> and +the gravy poured over them; they are then sent to table +with fried chip potatoes. The scene that follows baffles description. +Not a voice is heard, “at least as long as the birds +last.” The painful silence is only broken by the sounds of +crumbling bones between the teeth of the assemblage, and +an occasional <i>More birds, Mr. Caterer!</i> from that prince of +gourmets, Mayor S——.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Reed-Birds a la Lindenthorpe.</strong>—On “Ladies’ Day” the +members of this club are more particular than on “members’ +day.” They prepare the birds by drawing the trail +and removing the heads; they then take large sweet +or Irish potatoes, cut them in two, scoop out the insides, +and put an oyster or a small piece of bacon inside of each +bird, and put the birds inside the potato, tie them up with +twine, and bake until the potatoes are done. The common +twine is then removed and the potatoes are tied with a narrow +piece of white or colored tape, in a neat bow-knot, and sent +to table on a napkin.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_51'>51</span> + <h2 id='SALADS' class='c005'><i>SALADS.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>There is not a dish in the gastronomic vocabulary that +varies in composition more than a salad. And the reasons +for it are many. Among them may be mentioned climatic +influences and the personal habits of individuals. The individual +who lives well, and who considers a meal imperfect +without a wine or malt beverage, will sooner or later learn +to use condiments to such an extent as to alarm the more +temperate at table. A salad prepared for the majority, he +will tell you, cloys on his palate; and, after the first mouthful +he resorts to cayenne and vinegar to “tone up” the +salad to suit his taste. After this ungenerous act the close +observer will notice confusion upon the face of the salad-composer, +who felt confident that he had prepared a salad to +suit the taste of the most fastidious. But my friend the +salad-mixer should not get offended; he should keep in +view one fact—that a palate abused by the constant use of +tobacco and other stimulants requires more sharp and pungent +seasoning than one accustomed to these things only in +moderation, and that a strictly temperate person requires +less of condiments than either of them.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The dyspeptic’s case is entirely different. He will complain +of a salad in any form, accusing the oil of causing all +his trouble. But he is wrong. Let him stop flooding his +food with liquids that only dilute and weaken the gastric +juices of the stomach and he will soon be rid of dyspepsia +and learn to love salads as much as other people. The +habit of washing down each mouthful of food with liquids +is a deplorable one, and the person that does it invites dyspepsia +by so doing. Persons who are in the habit of eating +salads late at night, and who complain of indigestion next +morning, will find it to their advantage to add half a teaspoonful +of chicken pepsin to each pint of Mayonnaise; by +so doing digestion is assisted, and everyone will feel very +much better next day.</p> + +<p class='c007'>In catering for families I invariably add pepsin to the +dressing, but until now have kept it a secret, not liking the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_52'>52</span>idea of being accused of mixing medicine with the food. +Nevertheless I have been amply rewarded by receiving more +orders than I could personally attend to.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The following letter will explain itself:</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r c010'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Sharpless & Sons</span>, 801 to 807 Chestnut St.,</div> + <div class='line in16'><span class='sc'>Philadelphia</span>, March 7, 1879.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l c010'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Mr. Murrey, Continental Hotel</i>:</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c011'><span class='sc'>Dear Sir</span>: Please send two quarts of chicken salad +manipulated by <i>yourself</i>; the last we had prepared by you +left a pleasant recollection. Send up promptly at five +o’clock, and oblige,</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r c010'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>C. H. Hamrick</span>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lettuce Salad.</strong>—Take a good-sized head of lettuce and pull +the leaves apart. Wash them a moment in a little water, +then shake off the water and dry the leaves in a napkin by +taking hold of the four corners and shaking it. Examine +them carefully, wipe off all grit, and reject all bruised leaves; +place them in a salad-bowl large enough to dress them +in nicely without scattering a part of them over the table. +Mix one salt-spoonful of salt, one salt-spoonful of fresh +ground pepper, and a dust of cayenne with a tablespoonful +of oil in a salad spoon; pour this over the lettuce, and add +two more tablespoonfuls of oil; next toss the salad lightly +with a salad spoon and fork, and, lastly, add a tablespoonful +of vinegar; toss it gently once or twice and send to table. +<i>To be eaten at once.</i> Never cut lettuce. Should you wish to +divide the leaves tear them apart gently. But it is not +always necessary to tear the leaves, should they appear +too large to eat gracefully. With the assistance of your +knife you can wrap the leaf round the end of your fork so +as to make a small ball of it, and eat it with a little more +elegance than your neighbor, who is trying his level best +to get the leaf into his mouth edgeways.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Plain French Dressing.</strong>—A plain French dressing is made +of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and nothing else. Three +tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar, salt-spoon heaping +full of salt, an even salt-spoonful of pepper mixed with a +little cayenne.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_53'>53</span><strong>Plain English Dressing.</strong>—Same as plain French dressing, +with a teaspoonful of made English mustard added.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Bacon Dressing.</strong>—Cut half a pound of bacon fat into slices, +then into very small pieces, and fry them until the oil extracted +is a light brown; remove the pan from the fire +and add the juice of a lemon, one wineglassful of strong vinegar, +a salt-spoonful of pepper, and pour it over the salad with +the pieces of bacon. A very nice dressing when you cannot +get oil, etc.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Summer Mayonnaise.</strong>—Chop up the yolk and white of a +hard-boiled egg very fine, and sprinkle it over a salad. Mix +a plain French dressing in a cold soup-plate, and pour over +the egg and salad, and mix all together.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Sauce Vinaigrette.</strong>—Mix a plain French dressing, and add +to it a quarter of an onion chopped fine, a teaspoonful of +chopped parsley or pickle.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Don’t like the onion? Then add a few Godillot capers.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mayonnaise Sauce.</strong>—Work the yolks of two raw eggs to a +smooth paste, and add two salt-spoonfuls of Royal Table Salt, +half a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a salt-spoonful of dry mustard, +and a teaspoonful of oil; mix these ingredients thoroughly +and add the strained juice of half a lemon. Take the remainder +of half a pint of Virgin olive-oil and add it gradually, +a teaspoonful at a time, and every fifth teaspoonful +add a few drops of lemon-juice until you have used two +lemons and the half-pint of oil.</p> + +<p class='c007'>There are almost as many ways of making a Mayonnaise +sauce as there are of cooking eggs.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mayonnaise Sauce, No. 2.</strong>—Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled +eggs with the yolk of one raw egg to a smooth paste; +add a heaping teaspoonful of salt, two salt-spoonfuls of white +pepper, and two salt-spoonfuls of made mustard; mix thoroughly +and work a gill of oil gradually into the mixture, alternated +with a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar until you +have used three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Should the sauce +appear too thick add a wineglassful of cream gradually.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_54'>54</span><strong>Lobster Salad.</strong>—Tear the meat of the lobster into shreds with +two forks; remove the eggs (<i>if a hen lobster</i>) from the fins; +scrape out all the green fat from the shell and set it aside. +Prepare for making a Mayonnaise by working a tablespoonful +of the fat into a smooth paste; let this green fat, with the yolk +of one raw egg and one hard-boiled egg, be the basis of your Mayonnaise; +in all other particulars follow instruction for Mayonnaise +sauce. When complete mix the lobster meat with +three tablespoonfuls of the sauce. Cover the bottom of a +dish or compot with lettuce (the large leaves tear in two), +put a layer of lobster upon it; next add a layer of celery cut +into narrow-inch strips, and another layer of lobster; arrange +it neatly on the dish; sprinkle the eggs or the chopped +coral on the lettuce round the edges; pour the sauce +over the meat, garnish with lobster-legs, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Somebody sent to the Washington <i>Republic’s</i> correspondent, +“G. H. B.,” while he was laid up in Providence hospital +with the gout, a very fine lobster, and this is what he did +with it: “Now, I’ll tell you about that lobster. I had him +laid away tenderly in the ice-chest, and directed him to appear +at dinner with some leaves of lettuce and a raw egg. +The yolk of that egg I mingled, with slow, deliberate revolutions +of a fork, with mustard, red pepper, salt, and oil. +When the paste was thick enough to take up on the end of +the fork like dough I thinned it—‘cut it’ is technical—with +vinegar, and there was my dressing. I planted a table facing +the snow-storm, at which I mocked and jeered in a temperature +of seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Then did I disrobe +the ‘Cardinal of the Seas’ (you remember the Frenchman +who applied that to lobsters, thinking they came from the +ocean red?) of his vestments, and by the aid of a long pickle-spoon +placed all that was in him on the plate. His legs I +chewed up. Then I ate him, and watched the many industrious, +hard-working fathers of families trudging by in the snow, +who had no lobster, and couldn’t have dressed him if they +had. Then I finished up on some sponge-cake and custard, +ate two apples with a sprinkle of salt, lit my pipe, and in its +smoke framed beautiful porcelain figures engraven with +<span class='pageno' id='Page_55'>55</span>Chinese characters and Hindoo idols. That’s what I did +with that lobster. He was a prime one and very much interested +the Sisters.”</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chicken Salad.</strong>—Cut up a cold boiled chicken into neat +strips or pieces, and mix with it an equal quantity of celery. +Cut the celery-stalks into inch pieces, and cut each piece +into long strips; mix them together with a few spoonfuls of +Mayonnaise; arrange neatly upon a dish garnished with lettuce, +parsley, or hard-boiled egg, pour the remainder of the sauce +over the meat, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Veal Salad.</strong>—Boil a nice lean piece of veal with a chicken +or turkey, saving the water in which they were boiled to +make a soup, and serving the fowl for dinner with egg or +oyster sauce. When cold cut it up into neat strips, mix it +with celery or lettuce, pour Mayonnaise over it, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The custom of pickling the pieces, etc., of fowl before mixing +them in a salad does not take well with Americans.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Herring Salad.</strong>—Soak four Holland herrings in water or +milk for three hours; then cut them up into neat, square pieces +and set them aside; cut up into slices nearly three quarts of +boiled potatoes while they are hot, and pour over them Rhine +wine enough to moisten them; cover close, and when cold add +the herrings and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs chopped +fine; crush a dozen whole peppers in a napkin, add to the +salad, and mix. If milt herrings are used pound the milt +to a paste, moisten it with vinegar, and pour over the salad.</p> + +<p class='c007'>If roe herring are used, separate the eggs neatly and +sprinkle them over the salad, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'>I know a number of my German friends who will say, +“Ah! that is not a herring salad.” Where are the apples, the +capers, beets, pickles, etc.? But the only answer I can make +them is that the majority of our German brethren make an +Italian or a Russian salad and call it a herring salad.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Potato Salad.</strong>—Cut up three quarts of boiled potatoes, +<i>while hot</i>, into neat pieces, and add to them a tablespoonful +of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a teaspoonful +<span class='pageno' id='Page_56'>56</span>of pepper, and one of salt; add a cupful of oil, +and mix; then add a cupful of warm stock, a wineglassful of +vinegar (from the mixed-pickle bottle), mix the ingredients +together carefully, and do not break the potato any more than +is absolutely necessary; set it in the ice-box, and when cold +serve by placing a leaf of lettuce on a side-dish, and put two +spoonfuls of the salad upon the lettuce. The onion and parsley +may be omitted, and boiled root celery added, or a little +stalk celery chopped fine. You cannot make a perfect potato +salad with cold boiled potatoes. Most cook-books recommend +them, but that soggy, peculiar taste cannot be removed +or destroyed by all the condiments in the cruet-stand. A +salad prepared while the potatoes are hot will look more appetizing +and will keep three or four days, while cold boiled +potatoes will turn a black, uninviting color, and turn sour +the second day.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Turnip Tops.</strong>—When turnips placed in the cellar begin to +sprout they are usually thrown away, but the housekeeper +of experience will tell you that a bushel of turnips will furnish +her family with a salad all winter, and a very good one if +properly prepared.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Place the bushel of turnips in a dark, warm cellar to sprout, +and when the sprouts are three or four inches long cut them +off; pick the leaves from the stems, and pour hot water over +them; let them remain in the hot water a moment, then +plunge them into cold water; place the sprouts in the colander +to drain off all the water, and send to table with a +plain dressing or bacon dressing poured over them.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Asparagus Salad.</strong>—Boil the asparagus, and take it from the +hot water and plunge it into cold water to give it firmness; +drain off the water, and send to table with sauce Vinaigrette +or plain French dressing.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Hop Sprouts.</strong>—The hop-growers pull up all but two or three +sprouts from a hill of hops, and throw them away; the few +that remain in the hill are supposed to do duty as pole-climbers. +Gather a small basketful of the rejected sprouts; take +<span class='pageno' id='Page_57'>57</span>them home; boil them in salted water a few minutes, then +plunge them into cold water; drain off all the water, and +serve with a plain French dressing, bacon dressing, or sauce +Vinaigrette.</p> + +<p class='c007'>If you eat asparagus you will like hop sprouts.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cucumber Salad.</strong>—Peel and slice the cucumbers as thin as +possible; put the slices in salted water five minutes, then +draw off the water; cover them with vinegar, half a teaspoonful +of pepper, and salt if necessary.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cucumber and Tomato Salad.</strong>—Peel and slice a five-inch +cucumber into very thin slices; put them in a bowl with half +a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; set +it aside and mix a plain English dressing.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Take one large or two small-sized tomatoes, scald them a +moment, remove the skin and put them in cold water a few +minutes to cool; line the salad-bowl with lettuce, drain the +cucumbers from the pickle and put them in the bowl; wipe +the tomatoes and cut them into slices; put them on top of +the cucumber, pour the dressing over it, and serve.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r c010'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Office Western Union Telegraph Company</span>, }</div> + <div class='line in4'><span class='sc'>Harrisburg, Penn.</span>, April 16, 1879. }</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l c010'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><i>Mr. Murrey, Caterer Continental Hotel, Philadelphia</i>:</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c011'>Send by express, to-morrow, one hundred Murrey salad +sandwiches.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r c010'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>Henry M. Hoyt</span>, <i>Governor</i>.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Murrey’s Salad Sandwich.</strong>—Cut up four ounces of breast of +boiled chicken and four ounces of tongue, place them in a +mortar, and pound them to a paste; add two salt-spoonfuls +of celery-salt, a pinch of cayenne, a teaspoonful of anchovy +paste, and four tablespoonfuls of Mayonnaise; put the mixture +on a cold dish, and set it aside.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Take a few neat leaves of lettuce, dip each leaf in a little +tarragon vinegar, shake it, and place it on a slice of bread; +spread a layer of the prepared meat over the lettuce, then +another leaf of lettuce over the meat, and the other slice of +<span class='pageno' id='Page_58'>58</span>bread, and your sandwich is made. Trim off the crust, cut +each sandwich in two, and fold each piece neatly in confectionery +(oiled) paper.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Ham and veal make a nice salad sandwich. The meat may +be spread on the bread and the lettuce in the centre, if preferred.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Muskmelon Salad.</strong>—Should you be so unfortunate as to +receive an insipid, over-ripe melon, do not send it from the +table, but scoop it out on your plate with a spoon, pour a +French dressing over it, and you will thank me for the suggestion.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Alligator-Pear Salad.</strong>—This tropical fruit, that tastes +something like our chestnuts, is beginning to find favor +among us, but care should be used in selecting the fruit. The +green colored fruit is the best; the black, over-ripe fruit is +useless. Cut the pear in two, remove the large seed, cut +away the outer rind, then cut the fruit into strips and season +with a salt-spoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls best Virgin +olive-oil, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar—nothing else.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Salt.</strong>—Of all the condiments now in use salt is the most +essential. The health of every individual depends upon it, +and it is as much required as food or drink; therefore the +salt question is an important one to families. Do not buy +salt so fine as to cake in the salt-cellar, for it is almost +useless; nor use a very coarse salt; a happy medium is +the thing. What is known to the trade as Royal Table Salt +is the proper fineness and best adapted for hotels and family +use.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mushrooms.</strong>—I have purposely avoided introducing mushrooms +into my receipts on account of the expense attached, +but where the expense is only a secondary consideration they +may be used indiscriminately. Of the French canned mushrooms +the A. Godillot’s brand gives the best satisfaction, being +put up and sealed at the source of supply, and, therefore, +their natural flavors are preserved. Our field mushrooms are +very nice when fresh, cooked in any form. To distinguish +<span class='pageno' id='Page_59'>59</span>them from the poisonous fungi, “A Constant Reader,” writing +to the London <i>Times</i>, says: “I venture to send you a +simple test of the mushroom, which I have practised for many +years, and for which I am indebted to an old herbalist. Before +peeling the mushroom pass a gold ring backwards and +forwards on the skin of the mushroom; should the bruise +thus caused turn yellow or orange color the mushroom is +poisonous, but otherwise it is quite safe. I have tried repeated +baskets of mushrooms in this way, some turning yellow +and others retaining the usual color, though in all +other respects to all appearance the same.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>Forney’s <i>Progress</i> on mushrooms:</p> + +<p class='c007'>He saw a fellow gathering mushrooms, and he knew they +were the poisonous kind.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Take care,” he said, “those mushrooms are poisonous.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Oh! that makes no difference,” replied the man. “I am +not going to eat them; I’m gathering them for market.”</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>The Mystery of making Loaf Bread—A Trustworthy +Receipt.</strong>—“Loaf bread,” once said an experienced housekeeper +to us, “interferes with the salvation of more housekeepers +than any other one thing in the world.” This was +probably an extravagant statement, yet to the country housewife +who cannot turn to a convenient bakery the duty of +breadmaking is too often a heavy cross—a sort of hit-or-miss +experiment. Heavy, sour bread is far more general than the +opposite, and this is trying to both the digestions and to the +tempers of the family who eat it. Yet there is no reason +for this; there is a philosophy of breadmaking as of everything +else, and certain causes accomplish certain results. +Therefore we are glad to be able to give a receipt from a +practical housekeeper whose bread <i>never</i> fails: To make two +quarts of bread or rolls take four or five nice, large Irish +potatoes, peel and cut them up, and put them to boil in just +enough water to cover them. When done mash smooth in +the same water, and when <i>cool</i>, not <i>cold</i>, add a half-teacupful +of yeast—or, if you use compressed yeast, the sixth part of +a cake dissolved in tepid water—a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a +<span class='pageno' id='Page_60'>60</span>little salt, a tablespoonful of lard, and a pint of flour. Mix +together lightly. This should be very soft and quite sticky. +Set by in a covered vessel in a warm place to rise. In two +or three hours it will be risen, and should look almost like +yeast, full of bubbles. Now work in the rest of your two +quarts of flour, and, if necessary, add a little cold water. +The dough should be rather soft and need not be kneaded +more than half an hour. Set to rest in a moderately warm +place for four hours or thereabouts. It can be baked now +if wanted at once, but, if not, take a spoon and push the +dough down from the top and sides of the vessel containing +it, and let it rise again. The oftener the bread rises the +lighter it will be—three times is, however, sufficient. After +it rises the last time take it out of the vessel and knead it +with your hands until it is smooth. If too soft add a little +more flour. For rolls, roll out and cut as if for biscuit. If +you prefer doubled rolls give each a touch with the rolling-pin +to make it oblong, and then double it over. The baking-pan +must be greased and the rolls must not touch each other. +Set down to rise; this will take half or three-quarters of an +hour. Then put in the oven and bake as you would biscuit. +Unless the oven is <i>hot</i> the rolls will spread and the crust be +hard.—<i>Col. McClure’s Philadelphia Times.</i></p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Wheat Bread.</strong>—Put seven pounds of flour into a bread-pan, +hollow out the centre, and add a quart of lukewarm +water, a teaspoonful of salt, and a wineglassful of yeast. Have +ready more warm water, and add gradually as much as will +make a smooth, soft dough. Knead it well; dust a little flour +over it, cover it with a cloth, and set it in a warm place for +four hours; then knead it again for fifteen minutes and let it +rise again. Divide it into loaves and bake in a quick oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Corn Bread.</strong>—Sift three quarts of corn meal, add a tablespoonful +of salt, and mix sufficient water with it to make a +very thin batter. Cover it with a bread-cloth and set it to +rise. When ready to bake stir it well, pour it into a baking-pan, +and bake slowly. Use cold water in summer and hot +water in winter.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_61'>61</span><strong>Continental Hotel Corn Bread.</strong>—Sift together a pound and +a half wheat flour, one pound Indian meal, two ounces Royal +Baking Powder, and a tablespoonful salt. Beat together three +ounces of sugar, three ounces of butter, and four eggs; add +the mixture to the flour, and make a stiff batter by adding +warm milk if in winter, cold milk in summer. Bake in +small square moulds.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Continental Hotel Muffins.</strong>—Mix two and a half pounds +flour, three ounces Royal Baking Powder, and tablespoonful +salt. Beat up three ounces of sugar, three ounces butter, +and four eggs together; add to the flour, make a batter with +milk, half fill the muffin-rings, and bake in a quick oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boston Brown Bread.</strong>—Sift together thoroughly half a pint +of flour, one pint corn meal, half a pint rye flour, one teaspoonful +salt, one tablespoonful brown sugar, and two teaspoonfuls +baking powder. Peel, wash, and boil two mealy +potatoes; rub them through the sieve, diluting with half a +pint of water. When this is quite cold use it to make a +batter and pour it into a well-greased mould having a cover. +Place it in a saucepan of boiling water. Simmer one hour +without the water getting into it; take it out of the water, +remove the cover, and finish cooking by baking about thirty +minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Steamed Brown Bread.</strong>—One quart each of milk and Indian +meal, one pint of rye meal, one cup of molasses, two teaspoonfuls +of soda. Add a little salt and steam four hours.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Milk Biscuit.</strong>—Take one-fourth of a pound butter, one +quart lukewarm milk, two wineglassfuls yeast, salt to taste, +and as much flour as will form the dough. Stir flour into +the milk to make a thick batter, and add the yeast. This +should be done in the evening. Next morning melt the +butter and pour it into the sponge; add flour enough to make +a stiff dough; knead it well and set it aside to rise. When +perfectly light roll it out an inch thick and cut the biscuits, +set them in shallow baking-pans, and set them in a moderately +<span class='pageno' id='Page_62'>62</span>warm place to rise. When they are light brush beaten +egg over them and bake in a quick oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Corn Cakes.</strong>—Scrape twelve ears of corn, use two eggs, one +and one-half cups of milk, salt and pepper to taste, and flour +enough to hold all together. Fry in hot fat.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fried Bread Cakes.</strong>—Add half a cupful of melted butter, +three of “A” sugar, four eggs, teaspoonful of salt, and a +little grated nutmeg to five cupfuls of dough. Knead these +well together with flour, and set it before the fire to rise +until very light. Knead the dough again after it rises, and +cut it into diamond or crescent shaped cakes; let them rise, +and fry them in boiling fat.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Pies.</strong>—Pie, and the extent to which it is consumed in this +country, have long been a subject upon which Europeans travelling +here have exercised their descriptive and imaginative +powers. It seems to be a cardinal belief on the other side +that no meal is furnished here without a superabundance of +pie; that, even at the best inns and restaurants in New +York, Boston, and Philadelphia, pie is devoured at breakfast, +luncheon, dinner, and supper; that no American would sit +down to a table where he could not see plenty of pie; that +all the States are closely connected and bound together by a +prejudice in favor of pie; that it was love of pie rather than +force of patriotism which, in the civil war, preserved the +Union. Sala is one of the latest Englishmen to descant on +the omnipresence and national omnivorousness of pie. He +devotes ample space to it in one of his recent letters to the +London <i>Telegraph</i>; admits that he has eaten it, and that it +is so very toothsome that it is difficult to resist its temptations. +He has done what a great many of our own people +never do. Hundreds of families in this and in other cities +do not see a pie from beginning to end of the year. Thousands +of natives have never tasted pie. In the large towns +of the Middle States it is but seldom put on the table. +New England, indeed, is the region to which pie is indigenous, +though even there it is confined mainly to the rural +<span class='pageno' id='Page_63'>63</span>districts. It appears odd, however, that Englishmen should +so animadvert on our pies, as if they had never tasted or +heard of such things. They have any quantity of pies at +home, but these are meat pies, commonly of pork and mutton, +and as hostile to gastric conditions as bad pastry and +poor baking can conveniently make them. They have, too, +any number of fruit pies, giving them the name of tarts, not +to be compared with our pies. The gooseberry tart, almost +as much a British dish as plum-pudding, is eaten from +Cornwall to Northumberland, and that its eaters survive it +proves the strength and elasticity of the national stomach. +It is usually as heavy as lead and a guarantee of indigestion. +The French also have numberless pies under the disguise +of <i>tartes</i>, but no better than, often not so good as, +ours. In truth, the American pie is widely prevalent in the +Old World, where, as a rule, it is inferior to the native +article.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>NEW YORK TIMES.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Puff Paste.</strong>—Good sweet, salt butter, which has been washed +in cold water, squeezed between the hands to free it from +the salt, and afterwards wrung in a cloth to take away all +the moisture, is the best material that can be used. The +consistency of the butter is of much importance. If it is too +hard it will not easily mix with the flour, but if it is too +soft the paste will be entirely spoilt in consequence of the +butter breaking through the edges while it is being rolled. +As the difficulty experienced is generally to get the butter +sufficiently cool, it is a good plan to place it upon ice before +using it for the pastry. In hot weather the paste should be +placed in a cool place a few minutes between each turn. If +very flaky pastry is required, the paste may be brushed +lightly over each time it is rolled with white of egg. Sift +one pound of flour; put it on the pastry-board. Make a +hole in the centre; add half a teaspoonsful salt and little +less than half a pint of ice-water. The exact quantity of +water cannot be given, owing to the difference in flour, but +experience will soon enable you to determine when the paste +is sufficiently stiff. Mix it in gradually with a knife, then +<span class='pageno' id='Page_64'>64</span>work it lightly with the hands to form a smooth paste. +Have ready three-quarters of a pound of butter. Flatten the +paste till it is an inch thick; lay the butter in the centre, +and fold over the four sides of the paste so as to form a +square and completely hide the butter. Leave this to cool a +few minutes, then dredge the board and the paste with +flour, and roll the paste out very thin, and be especially careful +that the butter does not break through the flour. Fold +over a third of the length from one end, and lay the other +third upon it. This folding into three is called giving one +turn. Let the paste rest for a few minutes, then give it two +more turns; rest again, and give it two more. This will be +in all five turns, and these will generally be found sufficient. +If, however, the pastry is to be used for patties, etc., six or +seven turns will be required. Gather the paste together, +and it is ready for use, and should be baked as soon as possible; +and remember to dredge a little flour over it, the +board, and rolling-pin every time it is rolled, to keep it from +sticking. French cooks mix the yolks of two eggs with +flour and water in the first instance. If a very rich paste is +required a pound of butter to a pound of flour may be used.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>CASSELL.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Paste.</strong>—One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half a +pound of lard. With a little water make a dough of the +flour and lard; then roll it; spread a portion of the butter +over it; fold and roll again; add more butter, and so on until +you have used the half pound all up.</p> + +<p class='c007'>You cannot make good paste out of poor flour. The +“Perfection New Process Flour” will give you entire satisfaction.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Currant-Jelly.</strong>—Make a good crust and cover your plates with +it. Pare, core, and cut up the apples in small pieces; put +them on to stew in just water enough to cover them; quarter +a lemon and stew with the apples. When soft mash the apples, +remove the seeds if any, sweeten to taste, and flavor +with nutmeg or ground cinnamon.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Sliced Apple Pie.</strong>—Make a good, light crust; wet the edge +<span class='pageno' id='Page_65'>65</span>of the pie-plate and lay a thin strip all round. Pare, core, +and slice the apples; lay them on the paste with a little sugar, +the juice of half a lemon; flavor with nutmeg. Lay a top +crust over the fruit, and bake nearly three-quarters of an +hour.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Apple Meringue Pie.</strong>—Prepare the pie as in the foregoing +receipt, omitting the upper crust, and while the pie is baking +prepare a méringue by beating up the whites of three eggs +with three ounces of powdered sugar to a stiff broth; spread +two-thirds of the mixture over the fire, and put the other third +into a paper funnel or cornucopia, and by squeezing it decorate +the pie according to fancy; dust sugar over it. Return +it to the oven to set the méringue.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Apple-Custard Pie.</strong>—Beat up six eggs with a cupful of sugar; +add them to three cupfuls of stewed apples (cold), and +add gradually a quart of milk to the mixture; season with +nutmeg; cover the pie-plate with a good crust, with the +edge neatly arranged; fill the pie with the custard, and bake.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Mince-meat for Pie.</strong>—Shred and chop very fine two pounds +of beef suet; by dredging the suet occasionally with flour it +chops more easily and does not clog; boil slowly, but +thoroughly, two pounds of lean round of beef and chop fine +(mix all the ingredients as they are prepared); stone and cut +fine two pounds of raisins; wash and pick two pounds of currants; +cut fine half a pound of citron; chop two pounds of +apples, weighing them after they have been peeled and cored; +a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a +grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful of allspice, half as much +cloves, half an ounce of essence of almonds, a pint of brandy, +and a pint of cider. This may be kept in a cool place all +winter. If too dry add more cider.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Manufacturers are competing with each other in the preparation +of mince-meat to such an extent that it is no longer +economy to prepare your mince-meat at home. Most of +our first-class hotels use the “Thanksgiving Brand,” a genuine +<span class='pageno' id='Page_66'>66</span>New England preparation. It is put up in five or ten +pound buckets, and I consider it a great saving to families, +both in time and materials, to secure their meat all ready +prepared, when they know they can get a reliable article.</p> + +<p class='c007'>When you are about to make mince-pies moisten the meat +with cider, port, brandy, or water.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Pumpkin Pie.</strong>—Cut the pumpkin into strips, and stew +them in water enough to cover them nicely; when done +pour off the water and press the pumpkin through a sieve; +add to the pulp two quarts of milk, and nine eggs to every +quart of pulp; sweeten with sugar (beat the sugar and eggs +together), and season liberally with ginger and nutmeg; +prepare the pie-plates with a crust as for custard pies; fill +the plate with the mixture, and bake in a hot oven. +Serve the pies when cold. After drawing off the water from +the pumpkin cover the pot with a towel and let it stand half an +hour on the back part of the range to dry out the moisture.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Fruit Pies.</strong>—The under-paste for fruit pies may be made of +flour and lard, but the top is generally made of good puff paste; +it may cover the pie entirely or only in strips, according +to fancy. Should the fruit require longer cooking +than the paste, prepare it by stewing or simmering before +filling the pies with it.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Custard Pies.</strong>—Line a well-buttered pie-plate with a good +paste; arrange a thick pie rim round the edge of the plate; +beat up four eggs with one cupful of sugar, and gradually add +a pint and a half of milk; fill the pies while in the oven; +grate a little nutmeg over them and bake about twenty +minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lemon Cream Pie.</strong>—Boil a pint and a half of milk, and add +three tablespoonfuls corn-starch dissolved in a little cold milk. +Return the milk to the fire; take the juice of two lemons, +four eggs, one cupful sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of butter. +Beat these ingredients together, and add to the milk; flavor +with a teaspoonful of extract of lemon and grated nutmeg; +pour the mixture into the pies (prepared as for custard pies) +<span class='pageno' id='Page_67'>67</span>and bake. When done remove from the oven and set it +aside. Whip up the whites of four eggs to a froth, and gradually +add a cupful of powdered sugar; spread two-thirds of +the mixture on the pie, and put the other one-third into a +cornucopia, and by squeezing it decorate the pie according +to fancy. Return it to the oven a few minutes to set the +méringue.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lemon Cream Pie, No. 2.</strong>—One tablespoonful of corn-starch +dissolved in cold water, one cupful of boiling hot water, one +tablespoonful of butter, one egg, juice and rind of one lemon. +Sweeten to taste, and set aside to get cold. Fill crust with +this cream, and bake in a hot oven.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Orange Pie.</strong>—Work a teacupful of powdered sugar and a +tablespoonful of butter to a cream. Mix a tablespoonful of +corn-starch with a little cold water, and add a teacupful of +boiling water; let it cook long enough to thicken, stirring +constantly; then pour the mixture on to the butter and sugar. +Grate the peel from half an orange, and chop the other half +fine—first removing all the inner white skin. Add this to +the former ingredients, also a beaten egg and the juice of an +orange. Peel another orange, and slice it in little thin bits, +being careful to remove all the seeds and the tough white +skin. Line a pie-plate with nice paste and bake it until just +done; then fill with the custard and orange slices, and bake +long enough to cook the egg. A méringue made with the +whites of two eggs, a pinch of salt, and two tablespoonfuls +of powdered sugar, beaten to a stiff froth, will be an improvement. +Spread it over the pie; sift powdered sugar on +the top, and set it again in the oven until slightly colored.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>English Plum Pudding.</strong>—Take six ounces of finely grated +bread, and mix with them a pound of flour, a pound of beef +suet floured and chopped fine, a teaspoonful salt, half a pound +of granulated sugar, three-fourths of a pound of raisins +stoned and chopped, three-fourths of a pound of washed +currants, two ounces each of candied lemon and orange +<span class='pageno' id='Page_68'>68</span>peel, two ounces of citron shredded, a quarter of a pound +apple chopped fine, half an ounce of mixed spice, consisting +of ground cloves, cinnamon, and grated nutmeg, +and half a teaspoonful of fresh grated lemon-peel. Mix +these ingredients thoroughly, and work the mixture into a +stiff batter by adding to it five eggs beaten up with half a +pint of rich milk and a gill of brandy; turn the mixture +into a floured towel; shape it nicely; tie it up not too tightly, +but leave room enough for it to swell. Put it into a saucepan +of boiling water, and keep it boiling for five hours uninterruptedly. +Have a kettle of boiling water ready to add to +your saucepan as fast as the water evaporates. When done +sift powdered sugar over it; pour a little brandy or Jamaica +rum round it; set a match to the liquor, and send it to the +table with a hard or brandy sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Plum-Pudding Sauce.</strong>—Four ounces sugar and two ounces +butter, well creamed together; then beat an egg well into it, +with two ounces of brandy.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>New England Plum Pudding.</strong>—Two pounds bread, four +quarts milk, three pounds raisins, two grated nutmegs, three +teaspoonfuls each of cinnamon and allspice, eight eggs, +one cup sugar, and one cup molasses. Bake three hours.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Plain Plum Pudding.</strong>—Flour six ounces of suet, and chop +it fine; add a quarter of a pound of currants, the same +quantity of raisins, half a teaspoonful salt, and a teaspoonful +Royal Baking Powder; sift a pound of flour into the mixture; +mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them +nearly a pint of milk with three tablespoonfuls of molasses; +add a little mixed spice; shape the pudding nicely; tie it up +in a floured towel, allowing room for it to swell, and boil +three hours.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Pudding.</strong>—Take a cupful of chopped suet, a cupful +of grated bread, and a cupful of washed currants; mix with +two tablespoonfuls sugar, a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_69'>69</span>a salt-spoonful salt, and grated nutmeg; beat up two +eggs with half a cupful of milk, and work the mixture to a +light paste; wring some small cloths out of boiling water, +flour them, and tie in each a small portion of the mixture; +plunge them into boiling water, let them boil quickly half +an hour, turn them out on a hot dish, dash sugar over them, +and serve with a sauce made of sweetened melted butter, +with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, nutmeg to taste; a +few spoonfuls of brandy will improve it.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Batter Pudding.</strong>—Beat the yolks and whites of four eggs +separately, and mix them with six or eight ounces of flour +and a salt-spoonful of salt. Make the batter of the proper +consistency by adding a little more than a pint of milk; mix +carefully; butter a baking-tin, pour the mixture into it, and +bake three-quarters of an hour. Serve with vanilla sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Vanilla Sauce.</strong>—Put half a pint of milk in a small saucepan +over the fire; when scalding hot add the yolks of three +eggs, and stir until it is as thick as boiled custard; remove +the saucepan from the fire, and when cool add a tablespoonful +of Thurber’s double extract of vanilla and the beaten +whites of two eggs.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chocolate Pudding.</strong>—One quart of milk boiled with one +ounce of grated chocolate; sweeten to taste, and flavor with +vanilla. Boil thoroughly, and stand aside to cool fifteen +minutes; then stir in the yolks of six eggs, well beaten; +bake in a pudding-dish until it stiffens like custard. Beat +the whites of six eggs, with six tablespoonfuls of powdered +sugar, to a stiff froth, and spread over top of pudding; put +in oven and brown quickly.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Crullers.</strong>—Half a pint of buttermilk, one cupful of butter, +two cupfuls sugar, and three eggs; beat up the eggs and add +the sugar and milk. Dissolve half a teaspoonful of saleratus +in a little hot water; add to the mixture, with a teaspoonful +salt, half a nutmeg grated, and half a teaspoonful of fresh +ground cinnamon. Work in as much sifted flour as will +make a smooth dough; mix thoroughly; dredge the board, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_70'>70</span>rolling-pin, and dough with flour; roll it out and cut it in +rings or fingers, and fry in hot fat.</p> + +<p class='c007'>I have recommended buttermilk in the above receipt, +knowing its excellent qualities; but the majority of housekeepers +consider it utterly useless. The following from the +<i>British Mail</i> is appropriate here: “As the butter which is +taken from the milk is only the carbonaceous or heat-producing +element, there are still left in it all the nourishing +properties which make it so valuable as food. As a drink +for men at work in the hot sun buttermilk is far preferable +to cider, metheglin, switchel, or any preparation of beer +whatever, as it is not only cooling and refreshing, but also +strength-giving. Of course there are plenty of people, who +are constantly dosing themselves with blood-searchers, liver-purifiers, +and stomach-invigorators, who would laugh at the +mention of buttermilk as a medicine, and yet if they could +be once persuaded to try drinking a glass of that fresh beverage +every day they would soon find a corrective of their poor +appetites and ‘clogged-up’ livers. In a little book of +‘Plain Directions for the Care of the Sick,’ written by an +intelligent physician of Philadelphia, who has under his +medical supervision several charitable institutions, we find +buttermilk mentioned as being very useful, especially in +fevers, as an article of diet for the sick.”</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Baking Powder.</strong>—I have endeavored to recommend to my +many readers a few articles used in cooking that my long +experience as a caterer has taught me are the best. A good +baking powder is a very important article to have in every +household, but it is difficult to get a powder without the +presence of alum.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The Brooklyn Board of Health, on motion of President +Crane, the Sanitary Superintendent, was directed to procure +samples of the various kinds of baking powders sold in +Brooklyn, have them analyzed, and make a report thereon +to the Board. Without going in detail into the constitution +of baking powders, it will only be necessary to say that they +are made with bicarbonate of soda, or carbonate of ammonia, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_71'>71</span>and cream of tartar, chemically known as the bitartrate of +potassa. But the lack of skill, resulting in lumps of soda in +the product, led manufacturers to ascertain the proper proportion +of these salts and to mix them, selling the compound +as a baking powder. Some of the manufacturers, on account +of the cheapness of alum, have introduced it as an ingredient +into baking powder, and the report of the Brooklyn Board +concludes as follows: “From a careful examination we are +satisfied that the weight of evidence is against the use of alum +in baking powders, and that the risks incurred in its use are +too great to be incurred for the sake of cheapness alone. +The mucous membrane of the stomach and the intestinal +canal is a delicate structure, and materials which would produce +no effect on the outside skin might irritate and inflame +these organs.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>Dr. Mott, the Government Chemist, in his review of the +subject, makes special mention of having analyzed the Royal +Baking Powder and found it composed of pure and wholesome +materials. He also advises the public to avoid purchasing +baking powders as sold loose or in bulk, as he has found by +analyses of many samples that the worst adulterations are +practised in this form. And I may cheerfully add that our +first-class hotels use only the best of everything, not only in +baking powders but in every article that enters their storerooms, +and that Royal Baking Powder is the only baking +powder they allow used in their bakeries, it being free from +alum and other unwholesome ingredients.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roly-Poly Pudding.</strong>—One quart of flour, one-half pound +of suet chopped fine; rub in a little salt with flour, wet with +water, and then roll it out and spread any kind of fruit over +it. Roll up, put in cloth, and boil one hour.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Roly-Poly Lemon Pudding.</strong>—Take the pulp from three +lemons; remove the pith and add to it an equal weight of +sugar; boil twenty minutes; then set the mixture to cool. +Chop up seven ounces of suet, and mix it with one pound +of flour, a salt-spoonful of salt, and water enough to make a +paste; roll it out nearly an inch in thickness; spread the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_72'>72</span>lemon mixture upon it, and roll it into a long pudding; +pinch the ends together, tie it in a floured cloth, put it into +boiling water, and boil constantly for two hours. Serve +with wine-sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Marlborough Pudding.</strong>—Grate apples enough to make eight +ounces; add to this eight ounces of fine white sugar which +has been well rubbed on the rind of a large lemon, six well-beaten +eggs, three tablespoonfuls of cream, the strained juice +of three lemons, eight ounces of butter; add quantity at +pleasure of orange-flower water, and the grated peel of an +orange and a lemon; line the pie-dish with rich puff paste, +put in the mixture, and let it bake in a quick oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Macaroni Pudding.</strong>—Butter a pie-dish, and cover the bottom +with two and one-half ounces uncooked macaroni; pour +over it one quart of cold milk, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, +stir in two well-beaten eggs, and flavor with one teaspoonful +of vanilla (double extract) or any flavoring desired. +Put bits of butter over top, dust a little grated nutmeg over +top, and bake slowly two hours and a half.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Steamed Arrowroot Pudding.</strong>—Mix two tablespoonfuls of +Beatty’s Bermuda arrowroot with one cupful of milk; flavor +one pint and a half of milk with any desired flavoring, put +it on the fire, and when it boils pour it upon the arrowroot; +stir well, and when it is cool add three well-beaten +eggs, one tablespoonful each of sugar and brandy; put it into +a well-buttered mould, cover, and steam it one hour and a +half; then turn it out on a dish, and arrange some preserves +or jam neatly around it, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Almond Pudding.</strong>—Blanch and pound, with a little water, +three ounces of sweet and four ounces of bitter almonds; add +one pint of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little grated +nutmeg, one tablespoonful of flour mixed smoothly in a +little cold milk, one tablespoonful of grated bread, two eggs +well beaten, and the whites of two eggs whisked to a froth; +pour the mixture into a buttered mould, cover, and boil quickly +<span class='pageno' id='Page_73'>73</span>three-quarters of an hour; let it stand a few minutes before +turning out of mould. Serve with vanilla sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Bachelor’s Pudding.</strong>—Beat up three eggs, flavor with essence +of lemon and grated nutmeg, and add them to four +ounces each of finely-minced apples, currants, grated bread-crumbs, +and two ounces of sugar; mix thoroughly and boil +in a buttered mould nearly three hours. Serve with following +sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Wine-Sauce.</strong>—Boil the thin rind of half a lemon in one +wineglassful of water till the flavor is extracted; then take +it out and thicken the sauce by stirring into it one salt-spoonful +of rice, flour, or arrowroot which has been mixed +in water or milk, a walnut of butter; boil a moment, then +add half a tumblerful of good wine; let the sauce get quite +hot without boiling, sweeten a little, and serve with the pudding.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Bird’s-Nest Pudding.</strong>—Make the foundation of nest of blanc-mange +or corn-starch; grate the rinds of three lemons, and +arrange around the blanc-mange to represent straw; extract +the contents of four eggs through a small hole and fill the +egg-shells with hot blanc-mange or corn-starch; when cold +break off the shells and lay the moulded eggs in nest. Serve +with jam or preserves.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Harlan’s Pudding.</strong>—Take three ounces each of butter, +sugar, and flour; whisk two eggs thoroughly, and gradually +mix with them the loaf-sugar, which must be rubbed well on +the rind of a lemon before it is pounded; then add the +flour and the butter partially melted, a salt-spoonful of salt, +and a little grated nutmeg. Butter insides of several cups; +put a little jam at the bottom of each, and fill them nearly +full with the mixture; bake half an hour; turn them out +and serve with wine-sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cocoanut Pudding.</strong>—Beat two eggs with one cupful of new +milk; add one-quarter of a pound of grated cocoanut; mix +with it three tablespoonfuls each of grated bread and powdered +<span class='pageno' id='Page_74'>74</span>sugar, two ounces of melted butter, five ounces of raisins, +and one teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel; beat the +whole well together; pour the mixture into a buttered dish, +and bake in a slow oven; then turn it out, dust sugar over +it, and serve. This pudding may be either boiled or baked.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Citron Pudding.</strong>—Sift two tablespoonfuls of flour and +mix with the beaten yolks of six eggs; add gradually one +pint of sweet cream, a quarter of a pound of citron cut in +small strips, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar; mix thoroughly, +pour the batter into buttered tins, and bake twenty-five +minutes. Serve with wine or vanilla sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Eve’s Pudding.</strong>—Beat six ounces of butter to a cream; add +six ounces of sifted flour and six of sugar; separate the +yolks from the whites of four eggs; beat them till they are +light, then add the beaten yolks and afterwards the whites to +the batter; mix, and add half a dozen pounded almonds and +the grated rind of one lemon. Fill small tins about half full; +set them before the fire for a few minutes, and when they +have risen place them in the oven and bake for half an +hour. Serve with a sweet fruit sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Sliced Apple Pudding.</strong>—Mix two tablespoonfuls of arrowroot +with one pint of cream; add two tablespoonfuls of +sugar; put in stew-pan and place over fire until it boils. +Slice thinly apples enough to fill a large-sized dish, laying them +in a dish with alternate layers of apples and sugar and small +walnuts of butter; pour on a tumblerful of jam as next layer, +and over all pour mixture of arrowroot. Bake in moderate +oven twenty-five minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Astor House Pudding.</strong>—Mix one tablespoonful of flour with +two of milk; pour over it one cupful of boiling milk flavored +with one teaspoonful extract of vanilla; add one tablespoonful +of sugar, a walnut of butter, and the yolk of an egg, beaten. +Line the edge of pudding-dish with a rich puff paste, and +fill the dish two-thirds full with slices of sponge-cake over +which a good jam has been spread; pour the custard over +them and bake in a moderate oven; when done take out. Beat +<span class='pageno' id='Page_75'>75</span>up the whites of two eggs with nearly one cupful of powdered +sugar; spread the méringue over the pudding, and sprinkle +a little sugar over it; return it to the oven a few minutes until +the méringue is fawn-colored, and serve in dish with clean, +white napkin neatly bound around the sides.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A good wine-sauce may be served with it if desired.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Manhattan Pudding.</strong>—Dissolve a walnut of saleratus in one +tablespoonful of hot water; mix one cupful of milk, three +well-beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of flour (mixed with cold +milk), one pinch of salt, and four ounces of chopped citron; +add saleratus, and mix all thoroughly; pour the mixture into +a buttered mould, tie mould in a floured cloth, boil one +hour and a half, turn out, and serve with a fruit sauce.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Manioca Pudding.</strong>—Three tablespoonfuls of manioca, one +quart of milk, a little salt, one tablespoonful of butter, and +two well-beaten eggs; sugar, spice, or flavoring to the taste. +Mix manioca in half the milk cold, and, with the butter, stir +on the fire until it thickens or boils; pour it quickly into a +dish, stir in the sugar and the remaining milk, and when +quite cool add the eggs, spice, and wine or other flavoring. +This pudding may be varied by omitting the eggs and substituting +currants, chopped raisins or candied lemon, orange +or citron sliced. Bake half an hour in a moderate oven.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='CAKES' class='c005'><i>CAKES.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><strong>English Christmas Cake.</strong>—Sift five pounds of flour; mix +with it one tablespoonful of salt, one pound and a half of +butter, and half a pint of fresh brewer’s yeast or five teaspoonfuls +of baking powder; if yeast is used allow dough to +rise before adding other ingredients; mix in three pounds +of washed currants, one pound and a half of “A” sugar, a +whole nutmeg grated, one-quarter of a pound of chopped +candied lemon-peel, one wineglassful of brandy, and four +<span class='pageno' id='Page_76'>76</span>well-beaten eggs; butter the tins and line them with buttered +paper; bake in a moderate oven for two hours. The +quantity of brandy recommended will serve to keep these +cakes fresh for an indefinite time.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Apple Snow.</strong>—Reduce half a dozen apples to a pulp; press +them through a sieve; add half a cupful powdered sugar +and a teaspoonful of extract of lemon; take the whites +of six eggs, whip them for several minutes, and sprinkle two +tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar over them; beat the apple +pulp to a froth, and add the beaten egg; whip the mixture +until it looks like stiff snow; then pile it high in rough portions +on a glass dish, garnish with small spoonfuls of currant-jelly, +and stick a sprig of green on top.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Almond Cake.</strong>—Blanch and pound in a mortar thoroughly +eight ounces of sweet and one of bitter almonds; add a few +drops of rosewater or white of egg every few minutes to +prevent oiling; add six tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar and +eight beaten eggs; sift in six tablespoonfuls of flour and work +it thoroughly with the mixture, gradually add a quarter +of a pound of creamed butter; beat the mixture constantly +while preparing the cake, or it will be heavy; pour the mixture +into a buttered tin (place a buttered paper between the +tin and the cake), allowing room for it to rise, and bake in a +quick oven. Should the oven prove too hot for it, and the +cake be in danger of burning, cover it with paper for a few +minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Almond Sponge-Cake.</strong>—Take half a pound of loaf-sugar, +rub the rind of lemon on a few of the lumps, and crush the +whole to a powder; separate the whites from the yolks of +five eggs, beat the yolks, and add the sugar gradually; +then beat the whites to a stiff froth; add it to the dish, and +sift in flour enough to make a batter; add a tablespoonful of +essence of almonds; butter and paper a tin, pour in the mixture +until the tin is two-thirds full, and bake one hour in a +moderate oven. The bottom of the tin may be studded with +small pieces of almonds.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_77'>77</span><strong>Zephyr Cakes.</strong>—Excellent tea-cakes. Wash the salt out of +nearly a quarter of a pound of butter; add to it a quarter of +a pound of powdered sugar and three well-beaten eggs, a +teaspoonful of rosewater, and sifted flour enough to make a +thin batter; stir it with a wooden spoon till the batter is +perfectly smooth and so light that it will break when it falls +against the sides of the mixing-bowl; fill well-buttered +muffin-moulds (small) nearly half full with the mixture, and +bake in a quick oven; serve hot with newly-made butter.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Columbia Cake.</strong>—Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter +to a cream; add gradually a pound of sugar, four well-beaten +eggs, a cupful of milk, half a grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful +cinnamon, a wineglassful of brandy, nearly two pounds of +flour, and half a pound of washed currants; beat these ingredients +together twenty minutes. Dissolve a teaspoonful +of saleratus in a few spoonfuls of hot water, and stir it into +the mixture; butter the pan and line it with buttered paper, +pour in the cake, and bake in a moderate oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Knickerbocker Cakes.</strong>—Beat half a pound of fresh butter +to a cream; add half a pound of powdered sugar, three-quarters +of a pound of sifted flour, a tablespoonful of orange-flower +water and one of brandy, and four ounces of washed +currants; add five well-beaten eggs, and beat the mixture +until very light. Line some shallow cake-tins with buttered +paper, pour in the mixture until they are half full, and bake +in a quick oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cocoanut Cake.</strong>—One and a half cups of sugar, half a cup +each of butter and milk, one cup of cocoanut grated fine, +two cups flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake +in pans with dry cocoanut sprinkled over the top (three +cakes).</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Olive Gingerbread.</strong>—Five and one-half cups of flour, two +cups of molasses, one cup of sour cream, half a cup of butter, +and two teaspoonfuls each of soda and ginger. M. G. H.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chocolate Cake.</strong>—<i>Outside</i>: Half a cup of butter, two cups +<span class='pageno' id='Page_78'>78</span>of sugar, one cup of cold water, three cups of flour, four +eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, and three teaspoonfuls +of baking powder. <i>Inside</i>: Five tablespoonfuls of grated +chocolate with enough cream or milk to wet it, one cupful of +brown sugar, and one egg well beaten. Let it come to a boil, +and then flavor with vanilla. Cake is made in layers like +jelly cake.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chocolate Macaroons.</strong>—Put three ounces of plain chocolate +in a pan, and melt on a slow fire; then work it to a +thick paste with one pound of powdered sugar and the +whites of three eggs; roll the mixture down to the thickness +of about one-quarter of an inch; cut it in small, round +pieces with a paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped; butter a +pan slightly, and dust it with flour and sugar in equal quantities; +place in it the pieces of paste or mixture, and bake in +a hot but not quick oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Whortleberry Cake.</strong>—One quart of flour, one cupful of +sugar, one pint of berries, a little salt, and three teaspoonfuls +of baking powder. Mix stiff with milk like biscuit.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Whortleberry Cake, No. 2.</strong>—One cupful of sugar, two eggs, +one and a half cupfuls of milk with half a teaspoonful of +soda dissolved in it; butter size of an egg, one quart of berries, +one teaspoonful of cream-tartar, and flour enough to make +a stiff batter. Bake in muffin-rings or tins.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cocoanut Pound Cake.</strong>—Beat half a pound of butter to a +cream; add gradually a pound of sifted flour, one pound +of powdered sugar, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a +pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, quarter of +a pound of prepared cocoanut, four well-beaten eggs, and a +cupful of milk; mix thoroughly; butter the tins, and line +them with buttered paper; pour the mixture in to the depth +of an inch and a half, and bake in a good oven. When +baked take out, spread icing over them, and return the cake +to the oven a moment to dry the icing.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_79'>79</span><strong>Icing.</strong>—One cupful white sugar, enough water to dissolve +it; set on the stove and let it boil until it will “hair”; beat +the white of one egg to a stiff froth, pour the heated sugar +on the egg, and stir briskly until cool enough to stay on the +cake. The icing should not be applied until the cake is +nearly or quite cold. This will frost the tops of two common-sized +cakes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cream Cake.</strong>—Sift half a pound of flour into three ounces +of creamed butter; add an even teaspoonful of baking powder, +two tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, half a +teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, a cupful of cream that has +turned a little, and beaten egg. Mix the batter, pour it +into a buttered and papered tin, and bake in a moderate oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Windsor Cake.</strong>—Beat the yolks and whites of six eggs separately. +Have ready the crumbs of three Vienna rolls soaked +in milk, and squeeze dry; mix the crumbs with four ounces +of melted butter, add the beaten yolks and two ounces +crushed sugar, with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel; +work the mixture, and add gradually two ounces each of +raisins, almond paste, and candied orange-peel. Next add +the frothed whites of eggs; butter and paper a shallow tin, +and bake in a moderate oven. When done sprinkle powdered +sugar over it. If preferred, chopped almonds may be +sprinkled over the bottom of the cake-tin before adding the +cake.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Ginger Cup Cake.</strong>—Mix two cupfuls of powdered sugar +with two cupfuls of warmed butter; add three well-beaten +eggs, a cupful of molasses, four heaping cupfuls of flour, a +tablespoonful of fresh ground ginger, and a tablespoonful of +dissolved saleratus; mix thoroughly, and pour into buttered +moulds or patty pans. Bake in moderate oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Macaroons.</strong>—Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet almonds; +add one pound of powdered sugar, the beaten whites +of six eggs, two ounces of rice flour, and one tablespoonful +of brandy; mix all well together, and drop the mixture in +small quantities through a cornucopia on a sheet of confectionery +<span class='pageno' id='Page_80'>80</span>paper, leaving a small distance between each, and +bake in a moderate oven. It is best to bake one little cake +at first, and if it is at all heavy add a little more beaten +white of egg. A strip of blanched almond in the middle of +each will be an improvement. They should be baked a fawn +color.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Neapolitan Cake.</strong>—Blanch and pound to a smooth paste +six ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds; add a +few drops of orange-flower water while pounding to prevent +oiling; add a pinch of salt, the grated rind of one +lemon, four ounces of butter from which the salt has been +extracted, half a pound of crushed loaf-sugar, ten ounces of +flour; mix thoroughly, and add the well-beaten yolks of six +eggs after the eggs have cooled a little. Roll the paste out +to the thickness of about one-quarter of an inch, and stamp +out into small forms with a cake-cutter; lay them upon a +floured tin, and bake in a good oven. When they are done +take them out, and when cold cover the tops with a little +icing. Return them to the oven one moment to dry the +icing.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Marbled Cake.</strong>—One cupful of butter, two of sugar, three +of flour, four well-beaten eggs, and one cupful of milk; +two teaspoonfuls of baking powder; dissolve a large spoonful +of chocolate with a little cream, and mix with a cupful +of the batter; cover the bottom of your pan with the batter, +and drop upon it in two or three places a spoonful of the +chocolate, forming rings, then another layer of the batter, +and so on until all is used. Bake in a moderate oven.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Pound Cake without Soda.</strong>—One pound powdered sugar, +half pound butter, eight eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately +and well; ten ounces flour, one nutmeg; bake one +hour or longer. Never fails, and will keep one week.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lady Fingers, No. 1.</strong>—Beat the whites and yolks of four eggs +separately; mix with the yolks three ounces of flour and +three of powdered sugar; add the beaten whites, and afterwards +<span class='pageno' id='Page_81'>81</span>a gill of rosewater; beat all together a few minutes; +put the mixture in a paper funnel, and squeeze it out into +the shape of fingers on paper which has had a little powdered +sugar dusted over it; dust a little sugar over the fingers; +let them stand five minutes, then bake to a fawn color in a +moderate oven; fasten together after they have been baked +with a little white of egg. Keep them in close-covered tin +till wanted.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lady Fingers, No. 2.</strong>—Rub half a pound of butter into a +pound of flour; add half a pound of sugar; grate in the +rinds of two lemons, and squeeze in the juice of one; then +add three eggs; make into a roll the size of the middle +finger; it will spread in the oven to a thin cake; dip in +chocolate icing.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Crescents.</strong>—Mix three ounces of rice flour with three +ounces of powdered sugar; add three well-beaten eggs; +mix all thoroughly, then spread the mixture thinly on paper +and bake for twenty minutes. Take it out, and stamp into +the shape of crescents; cover each crescent with icing, and +return them to the oven for a minute or two to dry; add to +a portion of the icing a little cochineal, to make some of the +cakes pink-colored.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Maids of Honor.</strong>—One cup <i>each</i> of sour and sweet milk, +one small cup of white pounded sugar-candy, one tablespoonful +of melted butter, the yolks of four eggs, and the juice and +rind of one lemon. Put both kinds of milk together in a +vessel, which is set in another, and let it become sufficiently +heated to set the curd; then strain off the milk, rub the +curd through a strainer, add butter to the curd, also sugar-candy, +well-beaten eggs, and lemon. Line the little pans +with the richest of paste, and fill with the mixture; bake +until firm in the centre—from ten to fifteen minutes.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Charlotte Russe.</strong>—Take one-fifth of a package of gelatine +and half a cupful cold milk; place in a farina boiler, and +stir gently over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved; pour +into a dish, and place in a cool room; take one pint of rich +<span class='pageno' id='Page_82'>82</span>cream and whisk it with a tin egg-beater until it is thick; +flavor the cream with either vanilla or wine, and sweeten to +taste; when the gelatine is cool strain carefully into the +prepared cream; line a mould with ladyfingers; then pour +the cream in carefully until it is filled; cover with ladyfingers.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Manioca Cream.</strong>—Three tablespoonfuls of manioca, one +pint of milk, three eggs, vanilla and sugar to taste; soak +the manioca in water till soft; boil the milk; while +boiling stir in the manioca and the yolks of the eggs, beaten +with the sugar; when cooked sufficiently, pour into a dish +to cool; when cold, add the vanilla; beat the whites of the +eggs till stiff, sweeten and flavor them, and stir part into +the pudding, putting the rest on top.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Blanc-Mange.</strong>—Blanch ten bitter almonds with two ounces +of sweet almonds, and pound them to a paste; add by degrees +a third of a pint of cold water; let it stand till settled, +and strain off the almond milk. Put into a pint of +milk five ounces of loaf-sugar, three inches of stick vanilla, +and pour it into an enamelled saucepan; boil slowly till the +sugar is dissolved, then stir in an ounce of well-soaked isinglass; +strain into a basin; add the milk of almonds with a +gill of cream; remove the sticks of vanilla, and when cold +pour the mixture into individual moulds and place in ice-box +till wanted.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Meringues.</strong>—Take one pound of powdered sugar, and add +it to the beaten whites of eight eggs (slowly), until it forms +a stiff froth; fill a tablespoon with the paste, and smooth it +with another spoon to the desired shape; sift a little sugar +over a sheet of paper, drop the meringues about two inches +apart; dust a little sugar over them, and bake in a quick +oven with door left open, so they can be watched constantly; +when fawn-colored, take them out; remove them from the +paper with a thin knife; scrape out of each a little of the +soft part. They may be neatly arranged around a dish of +whipped cream, or filled with ice-cream. If whipped cream +<span class='pageno' id='Page_83'>83</span>is used, they would be improved by the addition of a little +bright jelly inside each méringue.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Macaroon Basket.</strong>—This is a pretty and unconventional +way of serving up macaroons with whipped cream, etc. +Make a cement of sugar boiled to crackling, into which dip +the edges of macaroons. Line a two-quart (deep) cakepan +with them, bottom and sides, taking care that the edges +of macaroons touch each other firmly; also have a care not +to pack them so tightly in the pan as to prevent easy removal. +Set aside to dry, and when wanted fill with the desired +cream, and serve on a glass dish.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Italian Cream.</strong>—Put one ounce of soaked isinglass, six +ounces of loaf-sugar, half a stick of vanilla, and one pint of +milk into a saucepan; boil slowly, and stir all the time +until the isinglass is dissolved; strain the mixture, and +when a little cool mix it with a pint of thick cream. Beat +thoroughly until it thickens. Pour into a large or individual +moulds, and put in ice-box until wanted.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Whipped Coffee Cream.</strong>—Sweeten one pint of rich cream +rather liberally; roast two ounces of coffee beans; when they +are lightly browned throw them into the cream at once and +let the dish stand one hour before using; strain and whip +the cream to a firm froth. A teaspoonful of powdered gum-arabic, +dissolved in a little orange-flower water, may be added +to give the cream more firmness, if desired.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Whipped Cream with Liqueurs.</strong>—Proceed as with coffee +cream, flavoring the cream before whipping with Curaçoa, Maraschino, +or any other cordial that may be desired. Other +creams can be made on the same principle with chocolate extracts +or highly-flavored wines.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Bavarian Cream.</strong>—Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth +and set in a colander one minute, to allow unwhipped portion +to drip away; boil one pint of milk with a stick of vanilla +and half a cupful of sugar until flavor is extracted; then +take out stick of vanilla, and remove saucepan from fire; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_84'>84</span>add half a box of Cox’s gelatine that has been soaked in +water; add the well-beaten whites of four eggs, and when the +mixture has become quite cold add the whipped cream gradually +until it is well mixed; put into individual moulds a +teaspoonful of some bright jelly or jam, then pour in the +mixture and place in ice-box until wanted. This cream may +be flavored in any way desired.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Ice-Cream.</strong>—Use only the best materials for making and +flavoring. Avoid using milk thickened with arrowroot, corn-starch, +or any farinaceous substance. Pure cream, ripe natural +fruits, or the extracts of same, and sugar of the purest +quality, combine to make a perfect ice-cream. In the first +place secure a good ice-cream freezer. Of these several are +made. Without recommending any particular make, we +would suggest that one be secured working with a crank and +revolving dashers. Next secure an ice-tub, not less than +eight inches greater in diameter than the freezer. See that +it has a hole in the side near the bottom, with a plug, which +can be drawn at pleasure, to let off water accumulated from +melting ice. Get a spatula of hard wood—not metal—with +a blade about twelve inches long and four or five inches wide, +and oval-shaped at end. This is used to scrape off cream +which may adhere to the sides of freezer in process of freezing, +also for working flavorings and fruits into cream. A +smaller spade is also necessary for mixing salt and ice together +and for depositing this mixture in the intervening space between +can and ice-tub. Ice must be pounded fine in a coarse, +strong bag. To freeze the cream, assuming it to be already +flavored, first pound up ice and mix with it a quantity of coarse +salt, in the proportion of one-third the quantity of salt to +amount of ice used. Put freezing-can in centre of tub, taking +care that lid is securely fastened down, and pile the mixed ice +and salt around it on inside of tub to within three inches of +top. First turn crank slowly, and as cream hardens increase the +speed until mixture is thoroughly congealed, and revolving +dashers are “frozen in.” Remove the lid, take out dashers, +cut away the cream which has adhered to the sides, and proceed +<span class='pageno' id='Page_85'>85</span>to work the mixture with the spatula until it is smooth +and soft to the tongue. Reinsert the dashers, cover can +again, and work crank until entire contents are hard and +well set. It is now ready to be served.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Vanilla Cream.</strong>—Four quarts of very rich cream, containing +no milk; split two good-sized vanilla beans and cut up +into small pieces; two pounds of powdered sugar and four +fresh eggs; beat the eggs thoroughly in a porcelain-lined +dish; add the sugar, and stir both well together; add the +cream and throw in vanilla; place on fire, stirring constantly +until boiling commences, but do not retain it there +an instant after that time; strain through a hair sieve, and +when cool pour it into the freezer and freeze.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lemon Ice-Cream.</strong>—Grate off the yellow rind of two large +fresh lemons, with half a pound of loaf-sugar, using care not +to grate a particle of the white, leathery pith beneath; +crush the sugar to a powder, strain over it the juice of one +lemon; add a pint of rich cream; stir until sugar is dissolved +and freeze.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Peach Ice-Cream.</strong>—Pound to a pulp twelve whole canned +peaches; strain through a hair sieve and add six ounces of +loaf-sugar which has been setting on fire to dissolve a few +minutes; add one pint and a half of cream and a few drops +of cochineal to give it a nice peach-color; freeze. Fruit +creams of any kind can be made in same manner.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Water Ices.</strong>—<i>Lemon Ice</i>: Rub the rinds of six lemons upon +twelve square lumps of sugar; squeeze over them the strained +juice, half a pint of water, and a pint of syrup made by boiling +three-quarters of a pound of sugar in nearly a pint of +water; put in an earthen crock for one hour and a half, +then mix, strain, and freeze. The ice will be improved by +adding the whites of three eggs beaten to a froth with six +ounces of powdered sugar. Serve in glasses.</p> + +<p class='c007'><i>Apricot Ice</i>: Skin, divide, and stone six large ripe apricots; +blanch, pound, and add the kernels to the fruit, +with the juice of two lemons, half a pint of water and two +<span class='pageno' id='Page_86'>86</span>ounces of clarified sugar; put in an earthen crock for one +hour and a half, then strain and mix the whites of three +eggs beaten to a firm froth with four ounces of powdered +sugar; add this to the prepared water, mix thoroughly, and +freeze.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Orange Basket.</strong>—Remove the fruit from interior of the +orange carefully by making a small incision on one side of +the orange, then cut the skin into shape of a basket, leaving +about one-half an inch of the stalk end for a handle. Fill +the basket with ices, ice creams, frozen punches, whipped +creams, jellies, etc. They look very pretty on a table. The +fruit portion of orange can be utilized by removing the pith +and seeds and sending to table sweetened with sugar, or used +to make orange ice-cream or ices.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Good Coffee.</strong>—The following remarks addressed to the +trade by Messrs. H. K. & F. B. Thurber & Co. are so true +and brief, yet so comprehensive, that I introduce them here:</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Nothing is more generally desired or appreciated, nothing +harder to find, than a uniformly good cup of coffee. Its +production is generally considered an easy matter, but it involves +the observance of a considerable number of conditions +by a considerable number of persons, and a volume might be +written about these and still leave much to be said. We will, +however, briefly state the most important requisites.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“The wholesale dealer must exercise care and judgment +in his selections, as there is almost as much difference in the +flavor of coffee as there is of tea; this is especially true of +Mocha, Java, Maracaibo, and other fancy coffees, of which +frequently the brightest and handsomest looking lots are +greatly lacking in the flavor and aroma which constitute the +chief value of coffee, and which can be ascertained only by +testing carefully each invoice purchased. It should be +roasted by a professional roaster, as this is a very important +part of the programme, and requires skill, experience, and +constant practice. Expert roasters are usually experienced +men and command high salaries. A bad coffee-roaster is +dear at any price, as the coffee may be ruined or its value +<span class='pageno' id='Page_87'>87</span>greatly injured by an error in judgment or an instant’s inattention. +Owing to these circumstances, in addition to the +fact that in order to do good work it is necessary to roast a +considerable quantity at a time, none of the small hand-machines +produce uniformly good results, and they are only +to be tolerated where distance makes it impossible for the retail +merchant to obtain regular and (when not in air-tight +packages) frequent supplies of the roasted article. <i>How +much</i> it should be roasted is also an important part of the +question; for making “BLACK” or “French” coffee, it +should be roasted higher than usual (the French also often +add a little chiccory), and some sections are accustomed to a +higher roast than others, but as a whole the customary New +York standard will best suit the average American palate.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Retail dealers should buy their roasted coffee of a reliable +house that has a reputation to sustain, and that cannot +be induced to cut down prices below what they can afford to +furnish an article that will do them credit; do not buy much +at a time (unless in air-tight packages), a week or ten days’ +supply is enough, and if you are situated so you can buy it +twice a week so much the better. Keep it in a dry place, +and, if possible, in a tin can which shuts tightly, never in a +pine box or bin, for the smell of the wood is quickly absorbed +by the coffee. Get your customers in the habit of buying it +in the berry, or, if they have no mill at home and want you +to grind it for them (every grocer should have a mill), grind +it pretty fine, so that when used the strength is readily extracted, +but do not sell them much at a time, as it is a <i>necessity</i> +to have coffee <i>freshly ground</i>.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Consumers should adopt the above suggestions to retail +dealers—buy of a reliable dealer who will not represent an inferior +article as ‘Java’; buy in small quantities, and buy +often; keep it dry and in a tightly-closed tin can, or in a +glass or earthen jar. Have a small ‘hand coffee-mill,’ and +grind only when ready to use it; and if during rainy weather +the kernels become damp and tough, warm them up in a +<i>clean</i> pot or skillet, but do not scorch them; this drives off +the moisture, restores the flavor, and makes it grind better. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_88'>88</span>The grinding is an important feature; if ground too coarse, +you lose much of the strength and aroma of the coffee; if too +fine, it is hard to make it clear, but of the two the latter is +least objectionable; both the strength and flavor of the coffee, +however, is a necessity, and if a little of the finely-powdered +coffee flows out with the liquid extract, it is clean and will +hurt nobody. It is better, however, to grind it <i>just right</i>, +which is so that the largest pieces will be no larger than pinheads.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“We now come to the important part of making coffee. +For this there are many receipts and formulas, including a +large number of new and so-called improved coffee-pots, but +we have never seen any of the new methods which in the longrun +gave as satisfactory results as the following old-fashioned +receipt:</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Grind moderately fine a large cup of coffee; break into it +one egg with shell; mix well, adding just enough cold water +to thoroughly wet the grounds; upon this pour one pint of +boiling water; let it boil slowly for ten to fifteen minutes, +and then stand three minutes to settle; pour through a fine +wire sieve into coffee-pot, which should be first rinsed with +hot water; this will make enough for four persons. <i>Coffee +should be served as soon as made.</i> At table first rinse the cup +with hot water, put in the sugar, then fill half full of <i>hot</i> +milk, add your coffee, and you have a delicious beverage that +will be a revelation to many poor mortals who have an indistinct +remembrance of and an intense longing for <i>an ideal cup +of coffee</i>. If you have cream, so much the better; and in +that case boiling water can be added either in the pot or cup +to make up for the space occupied by the milk, as above; or +condensed milk will be found a good substitute for cream.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“<i>General remarks.</i>—We have thus briefly indicated the points +necessary to be observed in obtaining uniformly good coffee, +whether made from Rio, or Java, and other mild-flavored +coffees. In the Eastern and Middle States Mocha, Java, +Maracaibo, Ceylon, etc., are most highly esteemed and generally +used; but at the West and in the South more Rio coffee +is consumed. The coffee <i>par excellence</i>, however, is a mixture +<span class='pageno' id='Page_89'>89</span>of Mocha and Java roasted together, and thus thoroughly +blended. Mocha alone is too rough and acrid to suit many +palates, but blended as above it is certainly delicious. In all +varieties, however, there is a considerable range as to quality +and flavor, and, as before stated, the best guide for the consumer +is to buy of a reliable dealer, and throw upon his +shoulders the responsibility of furnishing a satisfactory article.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Hotels and restaurants that desire good coffee should +make it in <i>small quantities</i> and <i>more frequently</i>. It is impossible +for coffee to be good when it is kept simmering for +hours after it is made.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“<strong>A Cup of Coffee.</strong>”—The author of “Salad for the Solitary,” +etc., has so well covered all the facts concerning the origin +and history of this domestic beverage that little remains to +be said; but as the establishment of the first coffee-house in +London is connected with a curious anecdote, perhaps my +readers will like to hear it.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Mr. D. Edwards, a Turkish merchant, on his return from +Smyrna to London, brought with him a Greek of Ragusa, +named Pasquet Rossee, who used to prepare coffee every +morning for his master. Edwards’s neighbors, beginning to +appreciate the good qualities of this beverage, became so +numerous as visitors at breakfast-time that in order to get +rid of them he ordered Rossee to open a coffee-house, which +the latter did in St. Michael’s Alley, Cornhill. This was the +first coffee-house in the city.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Now, taking its popularity as a basis, let us laugh at the +doctors who maintain the theory that hot coffee irritates the +stomach and injures the nerves. Let us tell them that Voltaire, +Fontenelle, and Fourcroy, who were great coffee-drinkers, +lived to a good old age. Let us laugh, too, at Madame +Sévigné, who predicted that coffee and Racine would be forgotten +together.—<i>Exchange.</i></p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_90'>90</span> + <h2 id='VEGETABLES' class='c005'><i>VEGETABLES.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'><strong>Potatoes.</strong>—To boil a potato properly is very naturally supposed +to be a very easy matter, but how seldom do we meet +with one boiled to a proper turn? In 1873, while out hunting +in northwestern Minnesota, I stopped at an old log-cabin for +dinner. The proprietor of the hostelry was an old down-East +Yankee, who, suffering from a lung complaint, had taken +his family out West, and had pre-empted one hundred and +sixty acres, there to remain the rest of his days. I had the +good fortune of having a well-filled pocket-pistol of brandy +with me (to be used for medicinal purposes only), which I +soon converted into Apple-Sauce while his wife was preparing +dinner. He was delighted with it, and told me that it was +the first drop of spirits he had seen or tasted for several +years (and I believed him, from the manner in which that +punch disappeared). This set him to telling me what a +splendid cook his wife was, and that she could beat “all +tarnation a’ biling taters.” I left him immediately and offered +my services to madam as second cook, my object being to +learn her <i>trick</i> of boiling potatoes. At last dinner was ready, +the cloth spread, and while the judge (as he was called) set +the table I looked for a garden (?) to get a salad. Not finding +the cultivated article, I had to resort to the field, and obtained +a few edible weeds, washed and dried them, and prepared +them for dinner.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='sc'>Our Bill of Fare.</span></div> + <div class='c004'>Vegetable Soup.</div> + <div>Smoked Shad with drawn Butter.</div> + <div>Roast Rump of Salted Beef.</div> + <div>Boiled Potatoes.</div> + <div>Parsnip Fritters.</div> + <div>Weed Salad.</div> + <div>Home-made Cheese. Cold Johnny-cake.</div> + <div>Acorn Coffee.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>My long tramp over the prairie hunting prairie-chickens +may possibly have had something to do with my ferocious +appetite, but I do not remember an occasion when I enjoyed +myself so much at table or ate so heartily. The dinner was +<span class='pageno' id='Page_91'>91</span>a success, and the potatoes surpassed all expectations. I am +not much of a potato-eater, but on this occasion I surprised +myself by asking for a potato the third time.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Her receipt for boiling potatoes was very simple. She +washed them well and peeled off a strip about a quarter of an +inch wide lengthwise round each potato, placed them in an +old iron pot, covered them with fresh rain-water (cold), and +added a teaspoonful of salt. She allowed them to boil fifteen +minutes, and then poured out a quart of the hot water and +added a quart dipperful of cold water. When the edge of +the peel began to curl up, she pronounced them done, and +removed them from the pot, covered the bottom of a baking-tin +with them, placed them in the oven with a towel over +them for fifteen minutes, with the oven-door open. They were +splendid.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The roast rump of salt beef was a new dish to me, but it +was very good. It had stood in water twenty-four hours to +extract the salt from it. It was a little dry and a trifle too +well done.</p> + +<p class='c007'>My salad was composed of a few dandelions that had grown +in a shady spot, a few inch dock-leaves, the tip-ends of the +milk-weed, and a few wild chives, with bacon dressing; but +I had no vinegar. As a substitute I gathered a handful of +sheep sorrel, chopped it up fine, and sprinkled it over the +salad.</p> + +<p class='c007'>On my departure the <i>judge</i> addressed me as Mr. Weedeater, +and requested me to make his cabin my home whenever +I was in Minnesota.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cabbage.</strong>—Never buy overgrown cabbages. They may +appear very pleasing to the eye, but they are apt to be too +coarse and too full of fibres to make a palatable dish. Do +not trim off the outer leaves until the day they are wanted. +It is a good plan to purchase a few dozen heads of cabbage +with the stalks on, and hang them up in the cellar, heads +down; then cut them down when wanted. Cut the heads +into quarters; trim off all wilted leaves; cover them with cold +water; add a handful of salt, and let them stand an hour +<span class='pageno' id='Page_92'>92</span>before boiling. This process thoroughly cleanses them from +insects, etc., that may be concealed between the leaves. When +ready to boil cover them with boiling water; add a pea of +soda, a little salt, and boil till tender. The old-fashioned +way of boiling cabbage and other vegetables for a boiled dinner +with the joint is not to be recommended for families outside +of the farm, as it makes altogether too hearty a meal for +those taking but little exercise.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Asparagus.</strong>—If the cut end of asparagus is brown and +dry and the heads bent on one side, the asparagus is stale. +It may be kept a day or two with the stalks in cold water, +but it is much better fresh. Scrape off the white skin from +the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal length; let them +lie in cold water until it is time to cook them; tie the +asparagus in small bundles, put them into a pot with plenty +of water, and a handful of salt. When the asparagus is +sufficiently cooked serve it on toast with drawn butter or +with cream dressing, sauce vinaigrette, etc.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Artichokes.</strong>—Soak the artichokes and wash them in +several waters; cut the stalks even; trim away the lower +leaves, and the ends of the others; boil in salted water with +the tops downwards, and let them remain until the leaves can +be easily drawn out. Before serving remove the choke and +send to table with melted butter.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Jerusalem Artichokes.</strong>—Peel the artichokes and throw +each root into cold water and vinegar immediately, to preserve +the color. Put them into boiling water, with a little salt, +until sufficiently tender for a fork to pass through them +easily; then pile them on a dish, and serve as hot as possible +with melted butter or white sauce poured over. Soyer shaped +them like a pear, then stewed them gently in three pints of +water with two or three onions thinly sliced, one ounce of +salt, and one ounce of butter. He then placed a border of +mashed potatoes round a dish, stuck the artichokes in it points +upwards, poured over them either white sauce or melted +butter, and put a fine Brussels sprout between each. It made +<span class='pageno' id='Page_93'>93</span>a pretty, inviting dish. Time to boil, about twenty minutes. +They should be tried with a fork frequently after a quarter +of an hour, as they will become black and tasteless if allowed +to remain on the fire longer than necessary.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Brussels Sprouts.</strong>—Pick, trim, and wash a number of +sprouts; put them into plenty of fast-boiling water. The +sudden immersion of the vegetables will check the boiling +for some little time, but they must be brought to a boil as +quickly as possible, that they may not lose their green color. +Add a tablespoonful of salt and a pea of soda, and boil +very fast for fifteen minutes. Lose no time in draining +them when sufficiently done; and serve plain, or with a little +white sauce over the top.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Green Peas.</strong>—To have green peas in perfection, care should +be taken to obtain them young, freshly-gathered, and freshly-shelled. +The condition of the peas may be known from the +appearance of the shells. When the peas are young the +shells are green, when newly-gathered they are crisp, when +old they look yellow, and when plump the peas are fine and +large. If peas are shelled some hours before they are cooked +they lose greatly in flavor.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Bottled Green Peas.</strong>—Shell the peas; put them into dry, +wide-mouthed bottles, and shake them together so that they +may lie in as little space as possible; cork the bottles closely, +and seal the corks; bury the bottles in dry earth in the +cellar, and take them up as they are wanted. They will keep +three or four months.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Turnips.</strong>—Turnips should only be served whole when +they are very young, and then they should be covered with +white sauce. When they have reached any size they should +be mashed. Pare the turnips, and wash them; if very young +a little of the green top may be left on; if very large they +should be divided into halves or even quarters; throw them +into slightly-salted water, and let them boil gently till tender; +drain and serve them.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_94'>94</span><strong>Carrots.</strong>—This vegetable is almost invariably sent to table +with boiled beef. When the carrots are young they should +be washed and brushed, not scraped, before cooking—and +old carrots also are better prepared in this way—then rubbed +with a clean coarse cloth after boiling. Young carrots require +an hour for cooking, and fully-grown ones from one hour and +a half to two hours. The red is the best part. In order to +ascertain if the root is sufficiently cooked, stick a fork into +it. When they feel soft they are ready for serving.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Celery.</strong>—Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, +with a little salt in it. Wash the celery carefully; cut off +the outer leaves, make the stalks even, and lay them in small +bunches; throw these into the water, and let them boil +gently until tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. When +done, drain, and place them on a piece of toast which has +been dipped in the liquid; pour over them a little good +melted butter, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Spinach.</strong>—Take two pailfuls of spinach, young and +freshly-gathered. Pick away the stalks, wash the leaves in +several waters, lift them out with the hands that the sand +or grit may remain at the bottom, and drain them on a sieve. +Put them into a saucepan with as much boiling water slightly +salted as will keep them from burning, and let them boil +until tender. Take the spinach up, drain it, and press it +well; chop it small, and put it into a clean saucepan with a +little pepper and salt and a slice of fresh butter; stir it well +for five minutes. Serve with the yolk of hard-boiled egg.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Onion.</strong>—This vegetable may be regarded either as a condiment +or as an article of real nourishment. By boiling it is +deprived of much of its pungent volatile oil, and becomes +agreeable, mild, and nutritious. There is no vegetable about +which there is so much diversity of opinion as there is about +the onion, some persons liking a little of it in every dish, +and others objecting to it entirely. Generally speaking, however, +a slight flavoring of onion is an improvement to the +majority of made dishes, but it should not be too strong. +<span class='pageno' id='Page_95'>95</span>The smell which arises from the esculent during cooking and +the unpleasant odor it imparts to the breath of those who +partake of it are the principal objections which are urged +against it. The latter may be partially remedied by eating +a little raw parsley before and after it. When onions are +used for stuffing, the unpleasant properties belonging to them +would be considerably lessened if a lemon, freed from the +outer rind but covered as thickly as possible with the white +skin, were put in the midst of them, and thrown away when +the dish is ready for the table. Onions may be rendered much +milder if two or three waters are used in boiling them. +Spanish onions are not so strong as the English, and are +generally considered superior in flavor. The largest are +the best.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Beets.</strong>—Wash, but do not cut them, as it would destroy +their sweetness; put them on to boil in a sufficiency +of water, and let them boil from two to three hours, or until +they are perfectly tender; then take them up, peel and +slice them, and pour vinegar or melted butter over them. +The root is excellent as a salad, and as a garnish for other +salads it is desirable on account of the brightness of its color.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Corn.</strong>—Strip the ears, pick off the silk, and put them +in a pot of water with a little salt; boil half an hour. +When done, cut off the corn from the cob and season it +with butter, pepper, and more salt if necessary, or serve on +the ear.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Oyster-Plant.</strong>—Scrape the roots lightly; either cut them +into three-inch lengths, or leave them whole, and throw them +into water with a little lemon till wanted; put them into +boiling salt and water, and keep them boiling quickly till +tender; drain them, arrange on toast upon a hot dish, and +pour over them good melted butter, white sauce, or sauce +maître d’hôtel.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Cauliflower.</strong>—Cut the stalk close to the bottom, and +pare away the tops of the leaves, leaving a circle of shortened +leafstalks all round. Put the cauliflower head downwards +<span class='pageno' id='Page_96'>96</span>into a little vinegar and water for a quarter of an hour. +Put it into a pan of boiling water, with a tablespoonful of +salt in it. Some persons prefer milk and water. Remove +the scum carefully as it rises or the cauliflower will be discolored. +Boil till tender. This may be ascertained by taking +a little piece of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and +if it yields easily to pressure it is ready. Drain, and serve. +Put a lump of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan with +a cupful of cold water; add gradually a teaspoonful of flour, +mix smoothly, boil, and strain over the vegetable.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Boiled Horse Radish.</strong>—Cut each root into pieces two inches +in length, and each piece into quarters; boil in water containing +a little salt and one tablespoonful of vinegar. When +tender drain, place the strips on a napkin, and send to table +with drawn butter. This vegetable is seldom used except as +a condiment or sauce ingredient. Although ignored in any +other form, it is one of the most nutritious and healthful of +all vegetables. It makes an excellent dish when used in equal +portions with any vegetables handled in making fritters.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Stewed Cucumber.</strong>—Peel and quarter two cucumbers lengthwise; +put them in a saucepan, add one teaspoonful of salt and +one dozen whole peppers. When tender take them out; +place them on toast, the edges of which have been dipped in +water used in stewing. Pour drawn butter over them, well +seasoned with cayenne pepper, and serve.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Stewed Dandelion.</strong>—The first mention of this dish will perhaps +inspire most American people with aversion, but I can +honestly advise them to try it. It is an inexpensive dish, +and easily obtained; for fresh growths after showery weather +may be had throughout the year. Gather a quantity of fresh +dandelion; pick off all the withered tips and hard parts; +shred them into strips, and wash them free from grit; put +the dandelion into a stew-pan with a strip of bacon, and add +one tablespoonful of vinegar; cover it with a small quantity +of boiling water, and stew until tender. Mash with a wooden +spoon; stir in a lump of butter; flavor with pepper and salt, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_97'>97</span>and serve like spinach. The dish may be garnished in a +variety of ways, either with hard-boiled eggs, sippets of fried +bread, or slices of boiled carrot cut into shapes. It is usually +served with white meats, as veal, sweet-breads, etc., but it is +excellent as a garnish for poached eggs.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>The following weeds</strong> are all good greens if properly treated: +the milk-weed, the different docks, fat hen, ox-tongue, +jack-by-the-hedge, sea-holly (a substitute for asparagus), sea +beet, shepherd’s purse, sow thistle, hawk-weed, stinging +nettle, willow herb, pile-wort, Solomon’s seal, lamb’s quarter, +and a number of other weeds common to this country, and +known only to a few. Once known they would be much +sought after.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='TABLE' class='c005'><i>TABLE ETIQUETTE.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The following article from <i>Harper’s Bazaar</i> is so appropriate +under this head that we take the liberty of inserting it +entire:</p> + +<p class='c007'>“<span class='sc'>Table Etiquette.</span>—There are a few points of table etiquette +not directly connected with the giving and receiving of +dinners and teas, but which are of the first importance, as they +concern individual behavior. We would be inclined to think +every one acquainted with them, and allusion to them a matter +of supererogation on our part, if it were not that we see +them so frequently violated. Those of our readers who are, +or who have always been, familiar with them will perhaps +pardon our speaking of them for the sake of those who are +not.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“We do not expect to see these gaucheries in the best society; +but there are many people perfectly well fitted for the best +society but for ignorance concerning these things, which, although +trifles in themselves, are of such infinite importance +on the whole. For instance, where all the requirements are +not fully known, if a general cessation of conversation should +suddenly supervene upon the serving of the soup, would there +be silence in the place? Not at all; the gap would be filled +<span class='pageno' id='Page_98'>98</span>with a continuous bubbling sound from the mouth of some +one or other unlucky wight whose mother never taught him +to take soup properly, and who is possibly disturbing and +disgusting all those that do better, and who know how easily +the trouble might be avoided. Soup is to be taken from the +side of the spoon, not from the tip, and it is not to be sucked +in, but the spoon being slightly tilted, it is rather poured +into the mouth than otherwise, the slightest silent inhalation +being sufficient for the rest.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Another generally neglected obligation is that of spreading +butter on one’s bread as it lies in one’s plate, or but slightly +lifted at one end from the plate; it is very frequently buttered +in the air, bitten in gouges, and still held in the face +and eyes of the table with the marks of the teeth on it. This +is certainly not altogether pleasant, and it is better to cut it +a bit at a time, after buttering it, and put piece by piece in +the mouth with one’s finger and thumb.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Let us mention a few things concerning the eating of which +there is sometimes doubt. A cream cake, and anything of +similar nature, should be eaten with knife and fork—never +bitten. Asparagus—which should always be served on bread +or toast, so as to absorb superfluous moisture—may be taken +from the finger and thumb; if it is fit to be set before you, +the whole of it may be eaten. Peas and beans, as we all +know, require the fork only. Potatoes, if mashed, should +be eaten with the fork. Green corn should be eaten from +the cob; but it must be held with a single hand, and not +after the fashion of the alderman’s wife at the lord mayor’s +dinner. French artichokes are to be eaten with the fingers, +slightly pulled apart at the top and one of the leaves pulled +out with finger and thumb; the fleshy end of this leaf is then +dipped in the salad dressing served with it, and only that +atom of a paler color at the bottom of the leaf is taken as it +peels off between the lips, when the dry portion is to be laid +back in the plate. It is always served as a separate course +by itself; a pretty hand looks very pretty indeed when fingering +a French artichoke. Celery, cresses, radishes, and all +that sort of thing are, of course, to be eaten from the fingers; +<span class='pageno' id='Page_99'>99</span>the salt should be laid upon one’s plate, not upon the cloth. +Fish is to be eaten with the fork, without the assistance of +the knife; a bit of bread in the left hand sometimes helps +one to master a refractory morsel.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“It is best to be very moderate in the beginning of a dinner, +as one does not know what is to follow, and all the rest may +be spoiled for one by an opposite course. We remember the +case of a lady in Mexico, who, dining with the governor of +the province, was served for the first course with a hash. +She was somewhat surprised; but it was a very good hash, +and she really made her dinner upon it. But the next course +was also hash—there were seventeen courses of hash before +the main dinner, of every delicious delicacy under the sun, +made its appearance! Of course, a tiny morsel of each hash, +for the sake of the flavoring, was all she should have taken; +as it was, she sat afterwards like Tantalus.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Berries, of course, are to be eaten with a spoon. In England +they are served with their hulls on, and three or four +are considered an ample quantity. But, then, in England +they are many times the size of ours; there they take the +big berry by the stem, dip it into powdered sugar, and eat it +as we do the turnip-radish. It is not proper to drink with a +spoon in the cup, nor should one, by the way, ever quite +drain cup or glass. Spoons are sometimes used with puddings, +but forks are the better style. A spoon should never +be turned over in the mouth. Ladies have frequently an +affected way of holding the knife half-way down its length, +as if it were too big for their little hands, but this is as awkward +a way as it is weak; the knife should be grasped freely +by the handle only, the forefinger being the only one to touch +the blade, and that only along the back of the blade at its +root, and no further down. In sending one’s plate to be +helped a second time, one should retain one’s knife and fork, +for the convenience of waiter and carver. At the conclusion +of a course where they have been used, knife and fork should +be laid side by side on the plate—never crossed; the old custom +of crossing them was in obedience to an ancient religious +formula. The servant should offer everything at the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_100'>100</span>left of the guest, that the guest may be at liberty to use the +right hand. If one has been given a napkin ring, it is necessary +to fold one’s napkin and use the ring; otherwise the +napkin should be left unfolded. One’s teeth are not to be +picked at table; but if it is impossible to hinder it, it should +be done behind the napkin. One may pick a bone at the table, +but, as with corn, only one hand is allowed to touch it; +yet one can usually get enough from it with knife and fork, +which is certainly the more elegant way of doing; and to +take her teeth to it gives a lady the look of caring a little too +much for the pleasures of the table; one is, however, on no +account to suck one’s fingers after it.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Wherever there is any doubt as to the best way to do a +thing, it is wise to follow that which is the most rational, and +that will almost invariably be found to be the proper etiquette. +There is a reason for everything in polite usage; thus, +the reason why one does not blow a thing to cool it is not +only that it is an inelegant and vulgar action intrinsically, +but because it may be offensive to others—cannot help being +so, indeed; and it, moreover, implies haste, which, whether +resulting from greediness or from a desire to get away, is +equally rude and objectionable. Everything else may be as +easily traced to its origin in the fit and becoming.</p> + +<p class='c007'>“If, to conclude, one seats one’s self properly at table, +and takes reason into account, one will do tolerably well. +One must not pull one’s chair too closely to the table, for the +natural result of that is the inability to use one’s knife and +fork without inconveniencing one’s neighbors; the elbows +are to be held well in and close to one’s side, which cannot +be done if the chair is too near the board. One must not lie +or lean along the table, nor rest one’s arms upon it. Nor is +one to touch any of the dishes; if a member of the family, +one can exercise all the duties of hospitality through servants, +and wherever there are servants, neither family nor guests +are to pass or help from any dish.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>I would here disclaim against the disgusting habit of +mouth-rinsing so prevalent at many dinner-parties. The +bad taste of such a procedure seems to me so evident that +<span class='pageno' id='Page_101'>101</span>everybody of refinement would avoid it. Yet I have repeatedly +seen it resorted to in fashionable society.</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='BANQUET' class='c005'><i>BANQUET SERVICE.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>The correct or proper manner of taking care of a number +of guests that have assembled before the hour of dinner or +supper has always been a puzzling problem to the novice in +this line of business; but a first-class caterer will always be +willing to help the host out of the dilemma, provided the +host does not pretend to know more about the business than +the caterer. It is a very good plan to have a colored servant +at the door, another to receive the coat, hat, and cane, and +give a paper check therefor, and still another to usher the +guests to the reception-room, where they will find the host +holding court over a bowl of lemonade or a light punch. The +guests are eventually summoned to the banquet-room, but just +before they enter it is “in good form” to serve them with a +glass of plain Vermouth, or a Vermouth cocktail, as an appetizer. +White servants are particularly to be recommended +for the dining-room.</p> + +<p class='c007'>They then sit down to a repast, served in the following +order (assuming of course that the table is set for a banquet):</p> + +<p class='c007'>No less than three, or more than five, oysters on the plate +of each guest (with celery on table if in season). The oyster +plates and forks are removed. Next serve the soups, with +a grated rusk, plain roll, or French bread. <i>Hors-d’œuvres</i>, +or whets, are now in order. Next serve the boiled releve; +then the heavy entrée; after which serve the light entrée. +Your guests will now expect the punch Roumaine, after +which serve a good Russian cigarette (if gentlemen only). +Then the roast joint; after which serve the game. Then +the light salad, with a plain French dressing. Next the +sweet entremet. The table should now be cleared; cheese +and hard cracker offered; then the ices, with cake, etc., +confectionery, dessert, coffee, liquors and cigars. The appropriate +<span class='pageno' id='Page_102'>102</span>vegetables to be passed round with each joint or +dish where they <i>naturally</i> belong.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The proper wines for above banquet are: with oysters, +white Burgundies, Sauternes, and, if no other wine is at +hand, a bottle of still Moselle may be served; with the soup, +Sherry and Madeira; with the releves of fish, Hock wines; +with the boiled joints, light Bordeaux (claret) and Burgundy +wines; with the entrées, champagnes (though champagne +may be served from the beginning to the end of dinner +if asked for), after the last entrée serve the punch Roumaine, +cardinal, etc., with cigarette if desired. A Rhenish +wine may be on table to prepare the palate for the roast, +and to counteract the sweetness of the punch. With the +roasts and game heavy Burgundy and Bordeaux. At many +English banquets port wine is sprinkled over the lettuce, +and cheese and crackers are served at the same time, but it is +not a modern custom. With the sweets, sherry and Madeira. +A spoonful of brandy added to the coffee will aid +digestion.</p> + +<p class='c007'>A <i>pony</i> of half green Chartreuse and S. O. P. brandy is +excellent at the end of a dinner.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Serve the punch Roumaine after the last entrée, and not +after the <i>roast</i>, as I have occasionally seen it on bills of +fare.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Remember that venison cools rapidly. Iced or cold wines +should not be served with it. Hot plates should not be forgotten.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Rhine wine takes kindly to boiled or roast ham.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Have you tried blanched almonds sautéed with a little +butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper, and served after +the cheese?</p> + +<p class='c007'>But one might suggest in this way indefinitely. The subject +is inexhaustible.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Remarks on Wines.</strong>—A guest should not be censured “by +looks” from the host if he refuses to drink any other wine +than that served with the first course, provided it is of a +good vintage and pleases his palate. Good, honest wines +<span class='pageno' id='Page_103'>103</span>should be served at all large entertainments, but “private +stock” and “rare vintages” should be reserved for the more +private affairs, where the guests are personal friends of the +host, and, though not recognized as wine-drinkers, they are +good judges of and appreciate thoroughly a good glass of +wine. The promiscuous gathering (with few exceptions) seldom +appreciates a rare bottle of still wine. Their ideal +wine is the champagne. I have often seen a bottle of splendid +Chateau Yquem and Johannesberger pushed aside as +“stuff” the moment the champagne appeared, and by gentlemen +whom I had previously considered <i>bon vivants</i>. They +will tell you that a wine with a deposit or crust cannot be +pure, and it is only a waste of time to attempt to explain that +old wines without a deposit are more or less <i>doctored</i>.</p> + +<p class='c007'>The host should be censured for sending his cellar curiosities +to table when the majority of the guests are strangers to +him.</p> + +<p class='c007'>On decanting wines, Denman has observed: “To fully develop +the flavor and bouquet of any wine a little gentle warmth +is necessary, and it is therefore advisable that the wines intended +for immediate use should be placed in a warmer temperature +than that of the cellar”; and Fin-Bee adds “that +the dining-room is the proper place,” which is the custom +among first-class caterers. The heavy wines should remain +in the dining-room uncorked a few hours under the supervision +of a trusty person, for the average waiter is partial +to good wine, and can remove a bottle as dexterously as a +king of legerdemain.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Francatelli insists that the different kinds of sherries, ports, +Madeira, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines are improved +by being decanted several hours before dinner.</p> + +<p class='c007'>His advice and suggestions are proper; but does it not +please the eye—is there not an unwritten history in all the +dark cobwebs, etc., that cling with a brotherly affection to +the original bottle?</p> + +<p class='c007'>The favorite Hocks with Americans are P. A. Mumm’s Johannesberg, +Barton & Guestier’s, Henkell & Co.’s wines, and a +few other well-known reliable firms. Prince Metternich, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_104'>104</span>Schloss Johannesberg wines are very good, but “Blue Seal” is +held at too high a figure ($150 per case) to ever become popular.</p> + +<p class='c007'>P. A. Mumm’s Hock wines are favorites, and justly so, for +they are entirely free from adulteration.</p> + +<p class='c007'>At an American banquet recently given in London, the favorite +wine was Heidsieck, on the ground that it was one of +the first wines to find popular favor in America. This information +will, no doubt, surprise wine-drinking Americans, +for if our custom-house reports of importation are reliable, +we have discovered several Rheims wines that are decidedly superior +to Heidsieck. The importation in 1879 of G. H. +Mumm’s champagne alone was twenty-two thousand five +hundred and twenty-six cases more than of any other brand.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Pommery and Cliquot (the two widows), Roederer dry, +Moët & Chandon, Imperial, and a few others are all good +dinner wines.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Sparkling Hock, if properly handled, is a wine that should +find favor in this country, but the demand is so limited that +it is very apt to spoil before the case is used up. That made +from the Riesling grape is the best.</p> + +<p class='c007'>American champagnes (and it grieves me to say it) are not +the proper wines to serve at a banquet or dinner. Their peculiar +acrid taste does not suit a palate that has been educated +on foreign wines. They may be served at a banquet given +in a foreign country where every dish and every wine is +purely American, or sent to the cook for his champagne(?) +sauce, etc. A bottle of “Cook’s Imperial” may be served +at lunch, and it is proper enough at the end of the bar where +the crackers and cheese hold court. It finds favor with the +youth “seeing the sights” of a great city, but not elsewhere.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Pierre Blot, in the <i>Galaxy</i>, observed “that American wines +are just as good as foreign wines for the table and for cooking +purposes. Bogus wines,” he said, “are sold to native Americans +almost entirely.” Friend Blot evidently got in with the +<i>wrong crowd</i> when he visited us.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>The First Champagne.</strong>—It happened that about the year 1668 +the office of cellarer was conferred upon a worthy monk +<span class='pageno' id='Page_105'>105</span>named Perignon. Poets and roasters, we know, are born, and +not made; and this precursor of the Moëts and Cliquots, the +Heidsiecks and the Mumms of our days, seems to have been +a heaven-born cellarman, with a strong head and a discriminating +palate. The wine exacted from the neighboring cultivators +was of all qualities, good, bad, and indifferent; and +with the spirit of a true Benedictine, Dom Perignon hit +upon the idea of “marrying” the produce of one vineyard +with that of another. He had noted that one kind of soil +imparted fragrance and another generosity, and discovered +that a white wine could be made from the blackest grapes, +which would keep good, instead of turning yellow and degenerating +like the wine obtained from white ones. Moreover, +the happy thought occurred to him that a piece of cork +was a much more suitable stopper for a bottle than the flax +dipped in oil which had heretofore served that purpose. +The white, or, as it was sometimes styled, the gray wine of +Champagne grew famous, and the manufacture spread +throughout the province, but that of Hautvillers held the +predominance. The cellarer, ever busy among his vats and +presses, barrels and bottles, alighted upon a discovery destined +to be far more important in its results. He found +out the way of making an effervescent wine, a wine that +burst out of the bottle and overflowed the glass, that was +twice as dainty to the taste, and twice as exhilarating in its +effects. It was at the close of the seventeenth century that +this discovery was made, when the glory of the Roi Soleil +was on the wane, and with it the splendor of the court of +Versailles. The king for whose especial benefit liquors had +been invented found a gleam of his youthful energy as he +sipped the creamy, foaming vintage that enlivened his dreary +tête-à-tête with the widow of Scarron. It found its chief +patrons, however, among the bands of gay young roysterers, +the future <i>roués</i> of the Regency, whom the Duc d’Orléans +and the Duc de Vendôme had gathered round them at the +Palais Royal and at Anet. It was at one of the famous +<i>soupers</i> d’Anet that the Marquis de Sillery, who had turned +his sword into a pruning-knife and applied himself to the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_106'>106</span>cultivation of his paternal vineyards on the principles inculcated +by the cellarer of St. Peter’s, first introduced the wine +bearing his name. The flower-wreathed bottles which, at a +given signal, a dozen of blooming young damsels scantily +draped in the guise of Bacchanals placed upon the table +were hailed with rapture, and thenceforth sparkling wine +was an indispensable adjunct at all the <i>petits soupers</i> of the +period. In the highest circles the popping of champagne-corks +seemed to ring the knell of sadness, and the victories +of Marlborough were in a measure compensated for by this +grand discovery.—<i>London Society.</i></p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='MIXED' class='c005'><i>MIXED DRINKS.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>My receipts under this head are inserted for the benefit of +<i>the gentlemen</i>, many of whom in the course of my experience +have bewailed their lack of knowledge on this point when +wishing to entertain their male friends at home.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Lemonade.</strong>—Take half a pound of loaf-sugar and reduce it +to a syrup with one pint of water; add the rind of five +lemons and let stand an hour; remove the rinds and add +the strained juice of the lemons; add one bottle of “Apollinaris” +water, and a block of ice in centre of bowl. Peel one +lemon and cut it up into thin slices, divide each slice in two, +and put in lemonade. Claret or fine cordials may be added +if desired. Serve with a piece of lemon in each glass.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Milk Punch.</strong>—For a small party: Dissolve half a pound +of sugar in a little hot water which has been flavored slightly +with a little lemon-peel; add the syrup to two quarts of +rich milk (cream is preferable); pour in one pint of brandy +and one gill of Jamaica rum; mix thoroughly, dust a little +grated nutmeg over it, and set it in a cool place. Beat the +whites of four eggs to a stiff froth with a little sugar and +float on top of punch same as with egg-nogg. Sprinkle a +little confectionery sugar over froth. Place a small piece of +ice in each tumbler when serving.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Egg-nogg.</strong>—For a small party: Separate the yolks and +<span class='pageno' id='Page_107'>107</span>whites of twelve eggs; beat the yolks thoroughly, add two +heaping cupfuls of sugar and half a grated nutmeg; beat +the whole together thoroughly; add half a pint of brandy, +half that quantity of Jamaica or Santa Cruz rum, and +two quarts of rich milk. Beat up the whites of six of the +eggs to a stiff froth, float it on top of mixture, and dust with +a little confectioner’s sugar. Place a piece of ice in each +tumbler when serving.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Hot Tom and Jerry.</strong>—Separate the yolks and whites of ten +eggs. Beat the yolks up thoroughly and add gradually four +pounds of sugar. Beat up whites of eggs to a stiff froth and +add gradually to above mixture. Flavor this batter with one +wineglassful of Maraschino and a little nutmeg. Put one +tablespoonful of this mixture into a china mug with a wineglassful +of brandy and one tablespoonful of rum, and fill up +the mug with hot water, stir well and dust a little more +grated nutmeg over it if desired. Sherry may be used +instead of brandy if preferred.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Hot Apple Toddy.</strong>—Heat a tumbler with hot water; throw +out the water; put in one teaspoonful of sugar and one wineglassful +of apple brandy; fill glass two-thirds full with hot +water, add one-quarter of a warm baked apple, a trifle of +grated nutmeg, and send to table with spoon in the glass and +some hard water crackers.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Hot Spiced Rum.</strong>—Heat a glass with a little hot water; +throw out the water; put in one teaspoonful of sugar, one +wineglassful of rum, a walnut of butter, three whole allspice, +one clove, and fill up with hot water. Dust a little +grated nutmeg over top if desired. Substitute Scotch whiskey +for rum if preferred.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Santa Cruz Punch.</strong>—Place the juice of two lemons, one +heaping tablespoonful of sugar, and a little water in a tumbler; +stir a few minutes to dissolve the sugar; add a wineglassful +of Santa Cruz rum; fill up the goblet with fine ice; +add a slice each of orange, lemon, and pineapple. Stir well +and serve with straws.</p> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_108'>108</span>The favorite brands of whiskies are the famous “Old +Crow” Bourbon, “Hermitage” and “Monongahela Monogram” +rye.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Orange Co., N. Y., apple-jack is superior to that made +in New Jersey.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Have you tried the sherries from the oldest house in Spain—Juan +Gmo. Burdon? They are excellent. Served with +our favorite dish, terrapin, the epicure exclaims: “The +eternal fitness of things!”</p> + +<div class='chapter'> + <h2 id='PRESERVING' class='c005'><i>PRESERVING, ETC.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>It is not many years since every good housewife felt +called upon at least once a year to take a great deal of +trouble in preserving a supply of fruit for use during the +winter months. The purchase of fruit-jars, the picking, or +purchase, and sorting of fruit, the purchase of sugar, the +boiling and preparation of the syrup, oftentimes in the hottest +weather, was a task which many a good housewife looked +forward to with some trepidation, while the uncertainties +attending the keeping qualities of the preserves, after they +were manufactured, made this a rather undesirable feature +in housekeeping.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Within a few years, however, all this has become unnecessary; +the manufacture of preserves on a large scale, with +skilled labor and improved appliances, has proven, as in +many other branches of manufacture, a great success; and +while there are some thrifty housewives who still think +their “home-made” preserves are better than the “store” +article, it is undoubtedly true that the high-class preserves, +such as are sold by Thurber, Park & Tilford, Acker, Merrall +& Condit, and other first-class grocers, are decidedly +fine, and in a number of cases far more appetizing and +delicate than the home-made article. I say this with all +due respect for the skill shown by many careful, conscientious +housewives throughout the land, but in this case the +doctrine “survival of the fittest,” I think, is quite applicable. +Too many people are apt to sit down, fold their +<span class='pageno' id='Page_109'>109</span>hands, and disclaim against anything not made at home, at +least as far as preserves and candied fruits are concerned. +The sword, I must admit, cuts both ways. While I have +wrestled carefully and conscientiously at many houses with +<i>alleged</i> preserves made at home, I have suffered the “pangs +of Tantalus” from atrocious compounds put on the market +by conscienceless manufacturers. For the benefit of those +who desire to “do up” their own fruits I append a few +trustworthy receipts. For preserving, the “Almy jar” is +particularly to be recommended.</p> + +<p class='c007'>In using this jar, fill it with the desired fruit while cold. +Make a syrup of sugar (quantity as given below) by boiling +well to prevent fermentation, or it can be put on fruit dry. +Fill jar with fruit, pour sugar over it until jar is full half-way +up the neck; screw on covers of jars without rubber +rings; put a board indented with holes in bottom of wash-boiler +and stand jars on it; fill boiler with cold water up +to neck of jars; boil (time necessary for different fruits is +given below), then remove jars one by one, take off covers, +fill with boiling water, put on rubber rings and screw covers +on tightly as possible. The same process is used in preserving +all kinds of fruits.</p> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr><th class='c012' colspan='4'>PREPARING FRUITS FOR PRESERVING.</th></tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>Boil</td> + <td class='c014'>Cherries moderately</td> + <td class='c015'>5</td> + <td class='c016'>minutes.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Raspberries „</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Blackberries „</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Plums „</td> + <td class='c015'>10</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Strawberries „</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Whortleberries</td> + <td class='c015'>5</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Pie-Plant sliced</td> + <td class='c015'>10</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Small Sour Pears, whole</td> + <td class='c015'>30</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Bartlett Pears, in halves</td> + <td class='c015'>20</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Peaches „</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Peaches, whole</td> + <td class='c015'>15</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Pineapple, sliced ½ inch thick</td> + <td class='c015'>15</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Siberian or Crab Apple, whole</td> + <td class='c015'>25</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Sour Apples, quartered</td> + <td class='c015'>10</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Ripe Currants</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Wild Grapes</td> + <td class='c015'>10</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Tomatoes</td> + <td class='c015'>90</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>Pour</td> + <td class='c014'>into warm jars.</td> + <td class='c015'> </td> + <td class='c016'> </td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class='c007'><span class='pageno' id='Page_110'>110</span>The amount of sugar to a quart jar should be:</p> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>For</td> + <td class='c014'>Cherries</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>ounces.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Raspberries</td> + <td class='c015'>4</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Lawton Blackberries</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Field „</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Strawberries</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Whortleberries</td> + <td class='c015'>4</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Quince</td> + <td class='c015'>10</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Small Sour Pears, whole</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Wild Grapes</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Peaches</td> + <td class='c015'>4</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Bartlett Pears</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Pineapples</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Siberian or Crab Apples</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Plums</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Pie-Plant</td> + <td class='c015'>10</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Sour Apples, quartered</td> + <td class='c015'>6</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c013'>„</td> + <td class='c014'>Ripe Currants</td> + <td class='c015'>8</td> + <td class='c016'>„</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Cider</strong> may be kept fresh and sweet by simply heating it +until it throws off steam, then putting into hot jars and +sealing immediately.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Apple-Sauce</strong> ready for table use or pies may be preserved by +putting in hot jars and sealing at once. Remember cold +fruit requires cold jars, hot fruit requires hot jars.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>To open the Jar.</strong>—Take the blade of a penknife, or any +other thin instrument, and push the rubber in towards the +neck at the O on the shoulder of the jar. The air will enter +and the lid will easily unscrew.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Currant-Jelly.</strong>—One pound of granulated sugar to each +pint of juice. Squeeze the currants and boil juice twenty +minutes, then add sugar, which should be heating while the +juice boils; stir well together until sugar is well dissolved.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Wine Jelly.</strong>—One box of Cox’s gelatine, dissolved in one +pint of cold water, one pint of wine, one quart of boiling +water, one quart of granulated sugar, and three lemons.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>In making Jam</strong>, the first thing to be looked after is the +fruit. As a general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, +<span class='pageno' id='Page_111'>111</span>sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It should be gathered +in the morning of a sunny day, as it will then possess its +finest flavor. The best sugar is the cheapest; indeed, there +is no economy in stinting the sugar, either as to quality or +necessary quantity, for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and +the jam will not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar +is boiled with the fruit. At the same time too large a proportion +of sugar will destroy the natural flavor of the fruit, +and in all probability make the jam candy. The sugar +should be dried and broken up into small pieces before it is +mixed with the fruit. If it is left in large lumps it will be +a long time in dissolving, and if it is crushed to powder it +will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. +The quantity to be used must depend in every instance on +the nature of the fruit. Fruit is generally boiled in a brass +or copper pan uncovered, and this should be kept perfectly +bright and clean. Great care should be taken not to place +the pan flat upon the fire, as this will be likely to make the +jam burn to the bottom of the pan. If it cannot be placed +upon a stove plate, set it upon a slab of soap-stone or marble +over the fire. Glass jars are much the best for jam, as +through them the condition of the fruit can be observed. +Whatever jars are used, however, the jam should be examined +every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are +any signs of either mould or fermentation it should be +boiled over again. If you do not want to use the patent +glass jar, the best way to cover jam is to lay a piece of paper +the size of the jar upon the jam, to stretch over the top a +piece of writing-paper or tissue-paper which has been dipped +in white of egg, and to press the sides closely down. When +dry, this paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. The +strict economist may use gum dissolved in water instead of +white of egg. The object aimed at is to exclude the air entirely. +Jam should be stored in a cool, dry place, but not in +one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has a tendency +to make the fruit go mouldy and heat to make it ferment. +Some cooks cover the jam as soon as possible after it +is poured out, but the generally-approved plan is to let the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_112'>112</span>fruit grow cold before covering it. In making jam, continual +watchfulness is required, as the result of five minutes’ +inattention may be loss and disappointment.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Canning Tomatoes.</strong>—Scald your tomatoes; remove the skins, +cut in small pieces, put in a porcelain kettle, salt to taste, +and boil fifteen minutes; have tin cans filled with hot water; +pour the water out and fill with tomatoes; solder tops on immediately +with shellac and rosin melted together.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>In canning, it is customary at hotels to follow the same +process as in preserving, with the exception that not nearly +so much sugar is used.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>To Can Quinces.</strong>—Cut the quinces into thin slices like apples +for pies. To one quart jarful of quince take a coffee-saucer +and a half of sugar and a coffee-cup of water; put +the sugar and water on the fire, and when boiling put in the +quinces; have ready the jars with their fastenings, stand the +jars in a pan of boiling water on the stove, and when the +quince is clear and tender put rapidly into the jars, fruit and +syrup together. The jars must be filled so that the syrup +overflows, and fastened up tight as quickly as possible.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Green Tomato Pickle.</strong>—One peck green tomatoes sliced, six +large onions sliced, one tea-cup of salt over both; mix thoroughly +and let remain over-night; pour off liquor in the +morning and throw it away; mix two quarts of water and one +of vinegar, and boil twenty minutes; drain and throw liquor +away; take three quarts of vinegar, two pounds of sugar, two +tablespoonfuls each of allspice, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and +mustard, and twelve green peppers chopped fine; boil from +one to two hours. Put away in a stone crock.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Chili Sauce.</strong>—Eight quarts tomatoes, three cups of peppers, +two cups of onions, three cups of sugar, one cup of salt, one +and one-half quarts of vinegar, three teaspoonfuls of cloves, +same quantity of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls each of ginger +and nutmeg; boil three hours; chop tomatoes, peppers, +and onions very fine; bottle up and seal.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Hot Sauce.</strong>—Six tablespoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls +<span class='pageno' id='Page_113'>113</span>of butter, one egg; beat butter, sugar, and yolks together, +the white, beaten to a stiff froth; add a teacupful of boiling +water and one teaspoonful of vanilla.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>M. G. H.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'><strong>The best way</strong> to prepare a new iron kettle for use is to fill +it with clean potato parings; boil them for an hour or more, +then wash the kettle with hot water, wipe it dry, and rub it +with a little lard; repeat the rubbing for half a dozen times +after using. In this way you will prevent rust and all the +annoyances liable to occur in the use of a new kettle.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>A new antiseptic</strong> is described by the <i>Journal of Chemistry</i>. +It is a double salt of borate of potassium and sodium; and is +made by dissolving in water equal portions of chloride of potassium, +nitrate of sodium, and boracic acid, filtering and +evaporating to dryness. It does not give a bad taste to food. +Butter may be kept sweet by it at ordinary temperatures for +a week. Meat, game, etc., dipped in a weak solution remain +pure for a long time. A piece of meat well rubbed with the +salt and laid away two years ago is now in perfectly good +condition. Eggs dipped in a solution of this antiseptic remain +good for a long period.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Morning Tonic.</strong>—An agreeable and effective tonic for the +correction of any discomfort arising from a too heavy supper +the night before may be taken in the morning before breakfast, +as follows: One wineglassful of “Hunyadi Water,” fifteen +minutes afterward a goblet of “Apollinaris Water”; wait +half an hour before breakfasting. The use of any alcoholic +beverages before breakfast, such as cocktails, etc., is to be +deprecated, as, aside from any moral point, it tends to promote +indigestion, creates a false appetite, and is in every +way injurious to the system. The man who resorts to it for +“toning up,” or as an “appetizer,” deceives himself.</p> + +<p class='c007'><strong>Dyspepsia Cure.</strong>—One-half an ounce each of pepsin and +bismuth, one-quarter of an ounce cubebs, and two and a half +grains lime; mix well and take a pinch of the powder fifteen +minutes after each meal. I have never known this remedy +to fail when tried.</p> + +<div class='lg-container-r'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='fss'>T. J. M.</span></div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_114'>114</span> + <h2 id='MENUS' class='c005'><i>MENUS.</i></h2> +</div> + +<p class='c008'>My object in introducing the following menus is to serve +a double purpose: first, to show progress made in the art of +constructing menus in the past thirty years—for it is an art, +and a very important one, too—among leading caterers; and +second, to furnish hints to all who may wish to give dinners +or suppers more or less elaborate. It has often happened in +my experience that customers would submit to me bills of +fare constructed by another caterer in the event of a prospective +“spread,” and say there was something about it +they did not like, some dish they would like to substitute, +etc. In this small space I have only attempted to give a few +of the many thousand varieties in my collection, but I now +have in preparation a volume embodying bills of fare, estimates +for cost of different bills based on number of guests to +be seated, together with a glossary or dictionary of French +idioms and words used in menus and the reason of their +adoption. The use of any but our own language on bills of +fare ought to be avoided, but there are cases where it is impossible, +and it is with the view of enlightening those who +cannot understand the meaning of French terms used, and +yet shrink from displaying their lack of knowledge, that I +have devoted my time to the construction of a glossary.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><i>DINNER ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF DANIEL WEBSTER.</i></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='sc'>At the Revere House, Boston, Friday, Jan. 18, 1856.</span></div> + <div class='c003'>Oysters on Shell.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Soup.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Mock Turtle.</div> + <div>Tomato.</div> + <div>Fish Chowder.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Fish.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Boiled Cod’s Head and Oysters.</div> + <div>Fried Sea Trout with Rashers of Pork.</div> + <div>Baked Striped Bass, Stuffed, Claret Sauce.</div> + <div class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_115'>115</span><i>Removes.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Roast Turkey.</div> + <div>Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce.</div> + <div>Roast Sirloin of Beef.</div> + <div>Boiled Capons and Pork, Celery Sauce.</div> + <div>Roast Mongrel Geese from Marshfield.</div> + <div>Boiled Leg English Mutton, Caper Sauce.</div> + <div>Roast Westphalia Ham, Champagne Sauce.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Cold Ornamental Dishes.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Boar’s Head on a Soclé, Decorated.</div> + <div>Lobster Salad, Garnished, in Jelly.</div> + <div>Galatine of Turkey with Truffles.</div> + <div>Quail with Plumage, on Form.</div> + <div>Boned Chicken with Truffles.</div> + <div>Pate of Liver in Jelly.</div> + <div>Aspic of Oysters, a la Royale.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Entrees.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Macaroni a la Anizine.</div> + <div>Mutton Cutlets, Breaded.</div> + <div>Venison Steak, Jelly Sauce.</div> + <div>Vol au Vent, a la Financiere.</div> + <div>Arcade of Partridge with Olives.</div> + <div>Terrapin, Stewed, Port Wine-Sauce.</div> + <div>Fillets of Black Grouse with Truffles.</div> + <div>Sweet-breads, Larded, with Green Peas.</div> + <div>Veal Cutlets, Larded, Tomato Sauce.</div> + <div>Mutton Kidneys, Champagne Sauce.</div> + <div>Fillet of Beef with Mushrooms.</div> + <div>Turban of Fillets of Chicken.</div> + <div>Calf’s Head, Turtle Sauce.</div> + <div>Oysters Fried in Crumbs.</div> + <div>Tripe, Webster Style.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Game.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Gray Ducks.</div> + <div>Canvas-Back Ducks.</div> + <div>Black Ducks.</div> + <div>Widgeons.</div> + <div>Partridge.</div> + <div>Red Heads.</div> + <div>Prairie Grouse.</div> + <div>Quail.</div> + <div>English Pheasants.</div> + <div>Teal.</div> + <div>Brant.</div> + <div>Meringue Baskets.</div> + <div>Omelet Soufflee.</div> + <div>Blanc-Mange.</div> + <div>Pastry.</div> + <div>Creams.</div> + <div>Confectionery.</div> + <div>Wine Jelly.</div> + <div>Charlotte Russe.</div> + <div class='c004'>ORNAMENTS.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Dessert.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Lemon Ice-Cream.</div> + <div>Fruit.</div> + <div>Frozen Plum-Pudding.</div> + <div>Roman Punch.</div> + <div>Bon-Bon Glace.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Coffee and Liqueurs.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_116'>116</span><i>BANQUET AT THE TENTH ANNUAL REUNION OF THE SOCIETY OF THE ARMY OF THE CUMBERLAND.</i></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='sc'>Friday, July 7, 1876, St. George’s Hall, Philadelphia.</span></div> + <div class='c004'><i>President.—Lieut.-Gen. Philip H. Sheridan.</i></div> + <div class='c004'><i>Soup.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Green Turtle, Sherry Wine.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Fish.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Salmon—Lobster Sauce, Iced Cucumbers, Haut Bareac.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Roast.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce.</div> + <div>Fillet de Bœuf, with Mushrooms.</div> + <div>Geisler Blue Seal Champagne.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Vegetables.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Potatoes.</div> + <div>Peas.</div> + <div>Tomatoes.</div> + <div>Cauliflower.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Entrees.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Sweet-breads and Peas.</div> + <div>Chicken Croquettes.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Salad.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Lobster.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Dessert.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Ices.</div> + <div>Meringues.</div> + <div>Fruit.</div> + <div>Claret Wine.</div> + <div>Coffee.</div> + <div>Brandy.</div> + <div>Whiskey.</div> + <div>Cigars.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Toasts.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<table class='table0'> + <tr> + <td class='c017'>The President of the U. S.,</td> + <td class='c018'>Gen. J. S. Fullerton.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c017'>George H. Thomas,</td> + <td class='c018'>Gen. J. A. Garfield.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c017'>The Army and Navy,</td> + <td class='c018'>Gen. W. T. Sherman.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c017'>The Volunteers,</td> + <td class='c018'>Gen. J. P. Bankson.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c017'>The Army of the Cumberland,</td> + <td class='c018'>Gen. C. H. Grosvenor.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c017'>Sherman’s Army,</td> + <td class='c018'>Major W. H. Lambert.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c017'>Our Departed Comrades,</td> + <td class='c018'>Gen. Wm. Cogswell.</td> + </tr> +</table> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><i>BANQUET AND RECEPTION TO HON. MATTHEW S. QUAY.</i></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='sc'>November 23, 1878.</span></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>Second only to the entertainment given to Grand Duke Alexis, in +1869, was the reception and banquet tendered to Hon. Matthew S. +Quay, late chairman of the Republican State Committee, by the +<span class='pageno' id='Page_117'>117</span>Union Republican Club, yesterday afternoon and evening, at the club-rooms +and banqueting-room of the Continental Hotel. The reception +ceremonies commenced promptly at the hour of five o’clock, at +the club-rooms, President Addicks officiating, and continued until seven +o’clock, when the members of the club to the number of 112, accompanied +by twenty-five invited guests, and the grandest display of fireworks +ever witnessed in this city, repaired to the banqueting-room of +the Continental Hotel.</p> + +<p class='c007'>At precisely eight o’clock the party assembled sat down to the most +sumptuous banquet ever prepared in this city, and it was not until 10 +o’clock that the lengthy bill of fare was disposed of. At the latter +hour Mr. Rufus E. Shapley, the toastmaster of the evening, announced +the first toast, to which the honored guest of the occasion, +Hon. M. S. Quay, fittingly responded. He was followed by Hon. +Morton McMichael, and ex-Governor Thomas L. Young, of Ohio, +responded to the toast of “the President of the United States.” Governor +Hartranft followed, and succeeding him came Governor-elect +Hoyt, who, after an excellent speech, introduced General Adam E. +King, of Baltimore, who made one of the best speeches of the evening. +Hon. Galusha A. Grow followed in a lengthy speech, and he +was followed by General Palmer, of Wilkesbarre. Speeches were +also made by Colonel Norris and others, until the hour of twelve +o’clock arrived, when the party dispersed.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Carl Sentz’s band furnished the music for the occasion, while Mr. +Murrey superintended the banquet. One of the chief features of the +banquet was the bill of fare, which was certainly the handsomest and +most costly of any ever gotten up in this city, and, as a souvenir, will +long be treasured by all who participated on the occasion.</p> + +<p class='c007'>Prominent among those present were Governor Hartranft, Governor-elect +Hoyt, ex-Governor Young, of Ohio, Hon. Galusha A. Grow, +Mayor Stokley, ex-Mayor McMichael, Judges Yerkes, Thayer, Briggs, +and Ashman, Gen. McCartney, Gen. Palmer, Gen. Owen, Hon. B. +H. Brewster, Attorney-General Lear, Hon. Butterworth, First Congressional +district of Ohio, Gen. Bingham, James McManes, Esq., +United States District-Attorney Valentine, Lieutenant-Governor-elect +C. W. Stone, Messrs. Leeds, Hill, Thomas J. Smith, Henry +Bumm, and Colonel Norris.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><span class='sc'>Menu.</span></div> + <div class='c004'>Blue Point Oysters.</div> + <div>Chablis.</div> + <div>Green Turtle.</div> + <div>Colbert.</div> + <div>Sherry.</div> + <div>Pates a la Reine.</div> + <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_118'>118</span>Salmon Sauce, Hollandaise.</div> + <div>Filet of English Sole, a l’Allemande.</div> + <div>Potato Croquette.</div> + <div>Marcobrunner.</div> + <div>Sweet-Bread, a la Morland.</div> + <div>Breast of Capon, a la Marengo.</div> + <div>Terrapin.</div> + <div>La Rose.</div> + <div>Asparagus, French Peas.</div> + <div>Mumm’s Extra Dry.</div> + <div>Punch a la Romaine, in Orange Baskets.</div> + <div>Cigarettes.</div> + <div>Canvas-back Duck.</div> + <div>Saddle of Venison.</div> + <div>Potatoes Parisienne.</div> + <div>Chambertin.</div> + <div>Celery, en Mayonnaise, Lettuce.</div> + <div>Old English and Roquefort Cheese.</div> + <div>Osbourne’s Old Port.</div> + <div>Charlotte Russe, Jellies.</div> + <div>Gateaux Assortis Bisquit, Glace.</div> + <div>Ice-Cream, Fruits, French Coffee, Liquors.</div> + <div class='c004'>—<i>Judge Bunn’s Transcript.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><i>DINNER A LA MARYLAND.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>A patriotic son of Maryland has suggested as a perfect dinner, the +choice of the amphitryon being restricted to the productions of the +State, the following:</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Four small Lynhaven Bay oysters.</div> + <div>Terrapin, a la Maryland.</div> + <div>Canvas-back Duck.</div> + <div>Salad of Crab and Lettuce.</div> + <div>Baked Irish Potatoes.</div> + <div>Fried Hominy Cakes.</div> + <div>Plain Celery.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>A royal feast, I assure you; but as I have not been invited, and as +the affair may not come off, I feel at liberty to criticise. I consider a +salad of crab and lettuce “too heavy” for such a menu as our “patriotic +son of Maryland” has suggested; and as for the fried hominy +cakes, why, it is like feeding swine on truffles—out of place, I assure +you! It is too suggestive of the hog and hominy of the Sunny South. +My gastronomic friend, where is your elegant Burgundy, or a bottle +of the Leland Brothers’ private stock Madeira?</p> + +<p class='c007'>Now I will give you my idea of a loyal dinner:</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><span class='sc'>Menu.</span></div> + <div class='c004'>Four Blue Point Oysters.</div> + <div>Consomme with Egg.</div> + <div>Celery.</div> + <div>Grated Rusk.</div> + <div>“Petites Bouchees” of Quail.</div> + <div>Terrapin, Philadelphia style.</div> + <div>Saratoga Chips.</div> + <div class='c004'><span class='pageno' id='Page_119'>119</span>Canvas-back Duck.</div> + <div>Currant-Jelly.</div> + <div>Lettuce Salad, plain Dressing.</div> + <div>Roquefort Cheese, with Hard Water-Cracker.</div> + <div>Coffee Demi-tasse.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>The coffee is to be made at table by an expert; and the wines—well, +say a bottle of sparkling Hock made from the Riesling grape +served after the soup-plates have been removed, and a choice bottle +of good old Burgundy or rare Madeira.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><i>BANQUET TO THE HON. GEORGE LEAR, EX-ATTORNEY-GENERAL, TENDERED BY THE SENATE OF PENNSYLVANIA.</i></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='sc'>Lochiel Hotel, Harrisburg, Pa., Thursday, March 27, 1879.</span></div> + <div class='c004'>Served by Thomas J. Murrey, of Continental Hotel, Phila.</div> + <div class='c004'><span class='sc'>Menu.</span></div> + <div class='c004'>Oysters.</div> + <div>Celery.</div> + <div>Chablis.</div> + <div>Chicken a la Reine.</div> + <div>Amontillado Sherry.</div> + <div>Petites Bouchees a l’Imperial.</div> + <div>Boiled Striped Bass, Hollandaise.</div> + <div>Broiled Shad, Sauce Tartare.</div> + <div>Cucumber Salad.</div> + <div>P. A. Mumm’s Johannesberg.</div> + <div>Fillet of Beef, with Mushrooms.</div> + <div>Loin of Lamb, Epicurean.</div> + <div>Godillot’s French Peas.</div> + <div>Potatoes Duchesse.</div> + <div>Chateau La Rose.</div> + <div>Supreme of Fowl, Sauce Bearnaise.</div> + <div>Cutlet of Sweet-breads a la Perigord.</div> + <div>Tomatoes Stuffed au Gratin.</div> + <div>G. H. Mumm’s Extra Dry.</div> + <div>Punch Cardinal.</div> + <div>Cigarettes a la Russe.</div> + <div>Squabs Stuffed a la Murrey.</div> + <div>Chambertin.</div> + <div>Lettuce Salad.</div> + <div>Omelette Souffle.</div> + <div>Assorted Jelly.</div> + <div>Glace Napolitaine.</div> + <div>Assorted Cake.</div> + <div>Fruit.</div> + <div>Roquefort Cheese.</div> + <div>Boston Water-Crackers.</div> + <div>Coffee.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_120'>120</span><i>A DICKENS CHRISTMAS DINNER.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>(From Dickens’ Story of “A Christmas Carol.”)</div> + <div class='c004'>COMPOSED BY T. J. MURREY.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Preparatory.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“What’s to-day, my fine fellow?” “To-day? why, Christmas +day.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>The flickering of the blaze showed preparations for a cozy dinner, +with hot plates baking through and through before the fire.</p> + +<p class='c007'>She laid the cloth, assisted by Belinda. And everything was good +to eat, and in its Christmas dress.</p> + +<p class='c007'>At last the dishes were set on and grace was said.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Dinner.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Oysters.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Self-contained and solitary as an oyster.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Barrels of Oysters.</div> + <div>Chateau Sauterne.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“A glass of wine ready to our hand.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Light Wine.</div> + <div class='c003'><i>Hors-d’œuvre.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Tiny Tim Pickles.</div> + <div class='c003'><i>Soup.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Creme of Cauliflower—Fin-Bec.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“The compound was considered perfect.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“It had a remarkable quality, and Scrooge observed it.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>Sherry (private stock, 1836).</p> + +<p class='c007'>“From a cask in the merchants’ wine-cellars below.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Here he produced a decanter of wine.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Fish.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Filet of Sole—Sam Ward.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“The very fish in a bowl, though members of a dull and stagnant-blooded +race, appeared to know that there was something going on. +Scrooge’s ‘two fish-baskets’ never held anything like them.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Boiled Potatoes.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“He blew the fire until the slow potatoes, bubbling up, knocked +loudly at the saucepan-lid to be let out and peeled.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Nackenheimer Auslese.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Satisfactory, too. Oh! perfectly satisfactory.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_121'>121</span><i>Entree.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Tenderloin of Pork—Chas. Lamb.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“An animal that grunted sometimes.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Seasonable at Christmas time.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Spanish Onions Stuffed and Baked.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Shining in the fatness of their growth like Spanish friars.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Pommery Sec.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Never out of season.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“He iced his.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Punch a la Bishop.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“We will discuss your affairs over the punch.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Roast.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Turkey.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“It is not a fictitious one, glued on a wooden platter.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Not unlike the big prize turkey that Scrooge sent to the Cratchit +family.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Cranberry Sauce.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Modest tartness.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Goose, Apple-Sauce.</div> + <div>Mashed Potato.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Bob said he didn’t believe there ever was such a goose cooked; +its tenderness and flavor were the themes of universal satisfaction.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Eked out by apple-sauce and mashed potato, it was a sufficient +dinner for the whole family.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Romanee Conti.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Came after the roast.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“A noble adjustment of things.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Plain Salad.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Like lettuce.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“It was made plain enough by the dressing. The ‘aromatic +vinegar’ improved it.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Dessert.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“With the dessert upon the table.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Plum-Pudding, Brandy Sauce.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Hallo! a great steam! the pudding was out of the copper.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“Mrs. Cratchit entered with a pudding blazing in half a quartern +of ignited brandy.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“And a wonderful pudding it was.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_122'>122</span>Mince-Pies.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“They had mince-pies.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Confections.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“The candied fruits, so caked and spotted with molten sugar as +to make the coldest lookers-on feel faint—and subsequently bilious.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Fruit.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Cherry-cheeked apples and oranges, beseeching to be carried +home in paper bags and eaten after dinner.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“There were bunches of grapes, and figs, and raisins, and almonds.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Cheese.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“A crumb of cheese.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Tea and Coffee.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“The blended scents of tea and coffee were so grateful to the +nose.”</p> + +<p class='c007'>“At last dinner was all done, the cloth was cleared, the ‘hot stuff’ +in the jug was tasted, and Bob proposed—‘A Merry Christmas to us +all.’”</p> + +<hr class='c019'> + +<p class='c007'>On Easter day (1880) there was a private banquet at the Rossmore +Hotel in this city, prepared, devised, and superintended by Mr. T. J. +Murrey. The service was for twenty, and the menu was as follows:</p> + +<p class='c007'>Who can help loving the land that has taught us six hundred and +eighty-five ways to dress eggs.—Moore.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Oysters.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>Wm. Travers once observed that the oyster was a most intelligent +creature, since it “shuts up sometimes.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Soup.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Consomme Colbert.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“On holydays, with an egg or two at most.”—Chaucer.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Fish.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Shad Roe—Bechamel.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“He was as thin as a lath, and lank as a June shad.”—W. H. +Smith, in the novel of “The Minister’s Wife.”</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Fresh Cucumbers.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“For this, be sure to-night thou shalt have cramps.”—Shakspere.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_123'>123</span><i>Releve.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“It gives true epicures the vapors</div> + <div class='line'>To see boiled mutton minus capers.”</div> + <div class='line in32'>—Sam Ward.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Entree.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Puree of Guinea-Hen with Poached Eggs.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“The vulgar boil, the learned poach an egg.”—Pope.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Omelette au Rum.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Made fair in the form of a maiden,</div> + <div class='line'>A medley of music and flame.”</div> + <div class='line in28'>—Justin McCarthy.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div>Egg-Nogg, Frappe a l’Alexandria.</div> + <div class='c003'><i>Roast.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Squab, stuffed a la Lindenthorpe.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Like a fat squab upon a Chinese fan.”—Cowper.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Green Peas.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“Of the sort that cost some four or five guineas a quart.”—Hood.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Baked Potatoes.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Ireland’s native esculent in a baked condition.”</div> + <div class='line in44'>—Lord Beaconsfield.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<p class='c007'>“The principal kind of ‘taters’ raised by Ireland last year was +agitators.”—New York <i>World</i>, Jan. 18, 1880.</p> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Salad.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Lettuce Francaise.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Back to the world he’d turn his fleeting soul</div> + <div class='line'>And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl.”</div> + <div class='line in40'>—Sydney’ Smith.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Dessert.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Assorted.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“I crack my brains to find out tempting sauces,</div> + <div class='line'>And raise fortifications in the pastry.”</div> + <div class='line in32'>—Lady Allworth’s Cook.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><span class='pageno' id='Page_124'>124</span><i>Coffee.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Mocha’s berry from Arabia pure,</div> + <div class='line'>In small, fine China cups, came in at last.”</div> + <div class='line in40'>—Byron.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> + <div class='nf-center'> + <div><i>Cigars.</i></div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-b'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'>“Ah! social friend, I love thee well,</div> + <div class='line'>In learned doctors’ spite. Thy clouds all other</div> + <div class='line'>Clouds dispel, and lap me in delight.”</div> + <div class='line in36'>—Charles Sprague.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c003'> + <div><i>SALAD COLLATION TO GEO. M. TOTTEN, U. S. N.</i></div> + <div class='c004'><span class='sc'>Continental Hotel, Philadelphia.</span></div> + <div class='c004'>Huitres.</div> + <div>Chablis.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Potages.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Colbert.</div> + <div>Cabinet Amontillado.</div> + <div>Pain a Caviar.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Poisson.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Filet de Sole, a la Godard.</div> + <div>Marcobrunner.</div> + <div class='c004'><i>Service Froid.</i></div> + <div class='c004'>Filet de Bœuf Pique, au Salade Printaniere.</div> + <div>Romanee Conti.</div> + <div>Cotelette de Volaille en Bellevue.</div> + <div>Salade Crabes Dur, a la Gourmand.</div> + <div>Œufs Farci, a la Totten.</div> + <div>Tartelette de Pigeon, a la Vienna.</div> + <div>Cordon Rouge.</div> + <div>Salad Escarole, a la Murrey.</div> + <div>Celeri.</div> + <div>Laitue.</div> + <div>Fromage de Roquefort.</div> + <div>Old Port (private stock).</div> + <div>Fruit.</div> + <div>Cafe noir.</div> + <div>Liqueurs.</div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='lg-container-l'> + <div class='linegroup'> + <div class='group'> + <div class='line'><span class='sc'>T. J. Murrey</span>, Caterer.</div> + <div class='line in4'>October 2, 1878.</div> + </div> + </div> +</div> + +<div class='chapter'> + <span class='pageno' id='Page_125'>125</span> + <h2 id='INDEX' class='c005'>INDEX.</h2> +</div> + +<ul class='index c003'> + <li class='c020'>Antiseptic, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Apple-Sauce, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a> + <ul> + <li>Snow, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> + <li>Toddy, Hot, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Arrowroot for Batters and Sauces, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Artichokes, Boiled, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a> + <ul> + <li>Jerusalem, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Asparagus, Boiled, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Banquet Service, <a href='#Page_101'>101</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Beef a la Mode, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a> + <ul> + <li>Corned, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> + <li>Fillet of, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a></li> + <li>Roast, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Beets, Boiled, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Biscuit, Milk, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Blanc-Mange, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Boiling, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Bread, How to make, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a> + <ul> + <li>Boston Brown, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> + <li>Steamed „, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> + <li>Corn, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a></li> + <li>Continental Hotel Corn, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> + <li>Wheat, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a></li> + <li>Stuffing, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c003'>Cabbage, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Cake, Corn, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a> + <ul> + <li>Fried Bread, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a></li> + <li>Almond, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> + <li>Almond Sponge, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a></li> + <li>Chocolate, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> + <li>Chocolate Macaroons, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> + <li>Cocoanut, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> + <li>Cocoanut Pound, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> + <li>Columbia, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> + <li>Cream, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> + <li>Crescents, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> + <li>Ginger Cup, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> + <li>Icing, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> + <li>English Christmas, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> + <li>Knickerbocker, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> + <li>Lady Fingers, No. 1, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> + <li>„ „ No. 2, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> + <li>Macaroons, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> + <li>Maids of Honor, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> + <li>Marbled, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> + <li>Neapolitan, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> + <li>Pound, without Soda, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a></li> + <li>Olive Gingerbread, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> + <li>Whortleberry, No. 1, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> + <li>„ „ No. 2, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> + <li>Windsor, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> + <li>Zephyr, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Calf’s Brains en Matelotte, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a> + <ul> + <li>„  Fried, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> + <li>„  and Tongue, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> + <li>Head, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a> + <ul> + <li>„  Broiled, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> + <li>„  Collared, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> + <li>„  Fried, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a></li> + <li>„  Maitre d’Hotel, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Capon, Boiled, <a href='#Page_20'>20</a> + <ul> + <li>Roast, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Carrots, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Cauliflower, Boiled, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Celery, Boiled, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Champagne, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Charlotte Russe, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Chestnut Stuffing, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Chickens a l’Italienne, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a> + <ul> + <li>Boiled, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> + <li>Croquettes, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> + <li>Fricassee, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> + <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_126'>126</span>Fried, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> + <li>Liver en Brochette, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> + <li>Patties, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> + <li>Panada, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> + <li>Pie, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a></li> + <li>Roast, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + <li>Roast Prairie, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> + <li>Toast, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> + <li>With Dumplings, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> + <li>With Rice, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Cider, How to keep fresh, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Codfish, Baked, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a> + <ul> + <li>Salt, with Cream, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Coffee, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Corn, Boiled, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Cream, Bavarian, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a> + <ul> + <li>Ice, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> + <li>Italian, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> + <li>Lemon Ice, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> + <li>Manioca, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> + <li>Peach Ice, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> + <li>Vanilla Ice, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> + <li>Whipped Coffee, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> + <li>Whipped with Liqueurs, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Crullers, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Cucumber, Stewed, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Dandelion, Stewed, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Dressing, Plain French, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a> + <ul> + <li>Plain English, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> + <li>Bacon, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Duck, Braise of, with Turnips, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a> + <ul> + <li>Braise of, with Peas, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a></li> + <li>Roast Canvas-Back, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> + <li>Roast Domestic, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> + <li>Wild, Salmi of, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Drinks, Mixed, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Dyspepsia Cure, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Eels, Fricasseed, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a> + <ul> + <li>Patties, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Egg-Nogg, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Egg-Plant, Stuffed, No. 1, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a> + <ul> + <li>Stuffed, No. 2, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Etiquette, Table, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Fritters, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Golden Buck, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Goose, Roast, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Ham a la Russe, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a> + <ul> + <li>Boiled, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Horse Radish, Boiled, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Hot Apple Toddy, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a> + <ul> + <li>Spiced Rum, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> + <li>Tom and Jerry, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c003'>Ice-Cream, How to make, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Ice-Cream, Lemon, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a> + <ul> + <li>Peach, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> + <li>Vanilla, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Ices, Water, Apricot, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a> + <ul> + <li>„  Lemon, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Icing for Cake, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Jam, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Jelly, Currant, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a> + <ul> + <li>Wine, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c003'>Kettles, Preparing for use, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Lamb, Breast of, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a> + <ul> + <li>Fricassee, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a></li> + <li>Roast, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> + <li>Roast Saddle of, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Lemonade, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Lobster, Broiled, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a> + <ul> + <li>En Brochette, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c003'>Macaroni, Baked, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Macaroons, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a> + <ul> + <li>Basket, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a></li> + <li>Chocolate, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Mackerel, Salt, Broiled, <a href='#Page_13'>13</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Meringues, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Milk Punch, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Mince-Meat for Pies, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Mixed Drinks, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Muffins, Continental Hotel, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Mushrooms, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Mutton, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a> + <ul> + <li>Boiled Leg of, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a></li> + <li>Breast of, with Peas, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + <li>Curry of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> + <li>Hash with Poached Eggs, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> + <li>Pie, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> + <li>Ragout of, <a href='#Page_26'>26</a></li> + <li>Roast Leg of, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> + <li>Roast Loin of, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c003'>Omelettes, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a> + <ul> + <li>Oyster, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> + <li>Rum, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> + <li>Souffle, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Onions, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Orange Basket, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Oyster-Plant, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a> + <ul> + <li>Croquettes, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> + <li>Stuffing, <a href='#Page_46'>46</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Oysters, a la Poulette, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a> + <ul> + <li>Broiled, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> + <li>Escalloped, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> + <li>Fried, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> + <li>Patties, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> + <li>Raw, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a></li> + <li>Roast on half-shell, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a></li> + <li><span class='pageno' id='Page_127'>127</span>Toast, <a href='#Page_7'>7</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c003'>Parsnip Fritters, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Partridge, Salmi of, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Paste, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Peas, Green, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a> + <ul> + <li>„  Bottled, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Pickle, Green Tomato, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Pies, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a> + <ul> + <li>Apple, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> + <li>„  Meringue, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> + <li>„  Sliced, <a href='#Page_64'>64</a></li> + <li>„  Custard, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a></li> + <li>Beefsteak, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> + <li>Custard, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> + <li>Fruit, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> + <li>Lemon Cream, No. 1, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> + <li>„ „ No. 2, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> + <li>Orange, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> + <li>Pumpkin, <a href='#Page_66'>66</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Pigeon, Roast, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Pork, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_42'>42</a> + <ul> + <li>and Beans, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> + <li>Chops, Tomato Sauce, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> + <li>Sausages, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Potatoes, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_90'>90</a> + <ul> + <li>Balls, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> + <li>Cakes, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> + <li>Fritters, <a href='#Page_36'>36</a></li> + <li>Stuffed, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Powder, Baking, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Puff Paste, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Pudding, Almond, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a> + <ul> + <li>Astor House, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> + <li>Bachelor’s, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> + <li>Batter, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> + <li>Bird’s-Nest, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> + <li>Boiled, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> + <li>Citron, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> + <li>Chocolate, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> + <li>Cocoanut, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> + <li>Eve’s, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> + <li>Harlan’s, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> + <li>Manhattan, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> + <li>Manioca, <a href='#Page_75'>75</a></li> + <li>Macaroni, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> + <li>Marlborough, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> + <li>Plum, English, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a></li> + <li>„  Plain, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> + <li>„  New England, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> + <li>Roly-Poly, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a> + <ul> + <li>Lemon, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li>Sliced Apple, <a href='#Page_74'>74</a></li> + <li>Steamed Arrowroot, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Punch, Santa Cruz, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Preserving, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Quail, Roast, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Quinces, Canning, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Rail-Birds, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Rarebit, Welsh, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a> + <ul> + <li>Yorkshire, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Reed-Birds, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Rice Croquettes, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Roasting, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Salads, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a> + <ul> + <li>Alligator-Pear, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> + <li>Asparagus, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> + <li>Chicken, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + <li>Cucumber and Tomato, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> + <li>Cucumber, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> + <li>Herring, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + <li>Hop Sprouts, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> + <li>Lettuce, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a></li> + <li>Lobster, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a></li> + <li>Muskmelon, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> + <li>Potato, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + <li>Sandwich, <a href='#Page_57'>57</a></li> + <li>Turnip Tops, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a></li> + <li>Veal, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Salmon, Soyer’s Boiled, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Salt, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_58'>58</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Santa Cruz Punch, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Sauces, Anchovy, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a> + <ul> + <li>Celery, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> + <li>Caper, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> + <li>Chili, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> + <li>Drawn-Butter, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> + <li>Dutch, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> + <li>Egg, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> + <li>Hot, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a></li> + <li>Lobster, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> + <li>Maitre d’Hotel, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a></li> + <li>Mint, <a href='#Page_41'>41</a></li> + <li>Mayonnaise, No. 1, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> + <li>„  No. 2, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> + <li>Oyster, No. 1, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a></li> + <li>„  No. 2, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> + <li>Robert, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + <li>Summer Mayonnaise, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> + <li>Tartare, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a></li> + <li>Tomato, <a href='#Page_25'>25</a></li> + <li>Vanilla, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a></li> + <li>Vinaigrette, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a></li> + <li>Wine, <a href='#Page_73'>73</a></li> + <li>Gravy for baked Fish, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a></li> + <li>For Plum-Pudding, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Shad, Baked, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> + <li class='c020'><span class='pageno' id='Page_128'>128</span>Sherries, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Snipe, Roast, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Soup, Beef Tea, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a> + <ul> + <li>Chicken, No. 1, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> + <li>„  No. 2, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a></li> + <li>Gumbo, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + <li>Mock Turtle, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a></li> + <li>Ox Tail, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> + <li>Pea, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> + <li>„  Economical, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> + <li>Stock, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + <li>Tomato, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a></li> + <li>Veal Stock, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + <li>„  Broth, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Spiced Rum, Hot, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Spinach, Boiled, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Sprouts, Brussels, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Stew, Beef, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Sweet-breads, Stewed, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Table Etiquette, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Tomatoes, Canning, <a href='#Page_112'>112</a> + <ul> + <li>Stuffed, <a href='#Page_34'>34</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Tom and Jerry, Hot, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Tonic, Morning, <a href='#Page_113'>113</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Tongue, Boiled, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Tripe, Broiled, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a> + <ul> + <li>Fricassee, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> + <li>Lyonnaise, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Trout Tenderloin, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Turkey, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_14'>14</a> + <ul> + <li>Boiled, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a></li> + <li>Roast, <a href='#Page_45'>45</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Turnips, Boiled, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a></li> + <li class='c003'>Veal Croquettes, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a> + <ul> + <li>Fricassee of, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a></li> + <li>Roast Loin of, <a href='#Page_40'>40</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c020'>Venison, Breast of, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a> + <ul> + <li>Chops, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> + <li>Epicurean, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a></li> + <li>Patties, <a href='#Page_33'>33</a></li> + <li>Roast, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a></li> + </ul> + </li> + <li class='c003'>Weeds, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Whiskies, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Wines, Remarks on, <a href='#Page_102'>102</a></li> + <li class='c020'>Woodcock, Roast, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a></li> +</ul> +<div class='pbb'> + <hr class='pb c004'> +</div> +<div class='tnotes x-ebookmaker'> + +<div class='chapter ph2'> + +<div class='nf-center-c0'> +<div class='nf-center c001'> + <div>TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES</div> + </div> +</div> + +</div> + +<table class='table1'> + <tr> + <th class='c013'>Page</th> + <th class='c013'>Changed from</th> + <th class='c016'>Changed to</th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class='c015'><a href='#t31'>31</a></td> + <td class='c014'>add a carrot cut into strips, an onion stock with a few cloves</td> + <td class='c021'>add a carrot cut into strips, an onion stuck with a few cloves</td> + </tr> +</table> + + <ul class='ul_1'> + <li>Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + + </li> + <li>Added table of <a href='#CONTENTS'>Contents</a>. + </li> + </ul> + +</div> + +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77612 ***</div> + </body> + <!-- created with ppgen.py 3.57i (with regex) on 2026-01-03 18:27:24 GMT --> +</html> |