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diff --git a/77612-0.txt b/77612-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e9cbe5d --- /dev/null +++ b/77612-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5199 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77612 *** + + + + +[Illustration: Victorian-style illustration on the cover of Valuable +Cooking Receipts. A Black woman in an apron mixes ingredients at a small +kitchen table while a white woman in a fitted dress stands beside her, +reading from a book and pointing at the bowl. In the background, a small +child holding an object stands near a doorway. The scene is framed by an +ornate bamboo-like border with the title at the top and the publisher’s +imprint, 'George W. Harlan, New York, 19 Park Place,' at the bottom.] + + + + + VALUABLE + COOKING RECEIPTS. + + + BY + + THOMAS J. MURREY, + + _Late Caterer of Astor House and Rossmore Hotel of New York, and + Continental Hotel of Philadelphia._ + + NEW YORK: + GEORGE W. HARLAN, + 19 PARK PLACE. + 1880. + + + Copyright, 1880, by + GEORGE W. HARLAN. + + + J. CAMPBELL, + PRINTER, + 15 Vandewater St., N. Y. + + + + + PREFACE. + + +In issuing this little volume the publisher is aware that the market is +already deluged with “cook-books,” both good and bad; but the aim in +this instance is to utilize the experience of a caterer, who has spent +twenty-five years of his life in the service of leading hotels and +restaurants all over the country, besides catering to the appetites of +thousands of private families. The well-known and unsurpassed cuisine of +the hotels where he has been employed would of itself form testimony +conclusive of his culinary ability, but he possesses besides numerous +flattering letters from private parties, many of high standing in the +community. As a salad-maker his reputation is wide-spread, and his +receipts under this head are numbered among the hundreds, any one of +which is a masterpiece of epicurean art and taste. It is my intention +shortly to issue a book containing these receipts. + +In writing receipts for this volume Mr. Murrey has kept economy +constantly in mind, and has endeavored to present some of the most +appetizing formulas in such a shape as to be within the reach of all +families of moderate means. Each and every receipt has been personally +tested and can be implicitly relied upon. The arrangement is that of a +regular bill of fare or _ménu_. It will be understood, of course, that +the contents of this book do not pretend to cover the field of cookery. +Some idea of the magnitude of such a task can be had when you are +informed that Mr. Murrey possesses probably the largest library on +gastronomic art in this country, numbering many thousand volumes. Like +all men who have made this art a study, he has aimed to so construct his +formulas as to ward off indigestion and dyspepsia. Apropos at this point +is a story illustrating the philanthropy of that prince of French +_chefs_, Carême. Meeting one day a woman bitterly weeping at the door of +a wine-shop, his commiserating question was answered by saying her +husband was within; all his earnings were spent there and his family +left to starve. Close questioning revealed the fact that the culprit +liked good living, and that the wife condemned him to boiled beef every +day. “No man cares to go abroad,” said Carême reproachfully, “for a bad +meal, if his wife can cook him a good one, particularly if a silversmith +and earning money.” Carême visited the house the next morning, and +ordered a silver cup to be repaired, and, while waiting for its +completion, offered to cook his own breakfast, which the man and wife +shared. It was woodcock cooked in a way to electrify an Apicius. Carême +called again for his cup with some wild duck. Meantime, the wife made +rapid progress in the _chef’s_ art. The husband ceased wasting his +money. The delicate fare improved his intellect; he became an artist in +his trade, and finally one day Carême received a box containing a silver +woodcock exquisitely carved, carrying in its beak a tiny silver cup, +with the inscription, “To Carême, from a friend who was saved by good +cooking.” + + THE PUBLISHER. + + + + + CONTENTS + + + PREFACE. + OYSTERS. + SOUPS. + FISH. + BOILING. + ENTREES. + VEGETABLE ENTREES. + ROASTING. + SALADS. + CAKES. + VEGETABLES. + TABLE ETIQUETTE. + BANQUET SERVICE. + MIXED DRINKS. + PRESERVING, ETC. + MENUS. + INDEX. + + + + + VALUABLE COOKING RECEIPTS. + + + + + _OYSTERS._ + + +=Raw Oysters.=—Eat raw oysters as plain and as free from condiments as +possible, and always on the deep shell in their own liquor. The average +American orders a dozen on the half-shell and then drowns his pets in +vinegar, pepper, salt, horse radish, etc., washing them down with some +malt beverage, pays his check, and disappears. The next day he goes +through the same performance, and the not over-conscientious oyster-man, +knowing his weakness for condiments, can easily palm off on him a +“Rockaway Cull” for a Blue Point or a Green Point, or he may give him a +“deep-water native” for almost any particular kind or brand he may want, +and he cannot detect the difference in their flavor, owing to his +excessive use of condiments. A little lemon-juice is all that is +necessary, if you will not eat your saline dainties natural. + +The heartless oyster-fiend who opens your oysters by _smashing_ the +shell should be avoided, for it is cruelty, to say the least. We can +forgive him for spattering our clothing with shells, mud, and dirty +water, but filling our mouths with these things is pure ugliness. Order +a quart of the bivalves to be sent home, and this oyster-butcher +endangers the health of your family should any of them swallow a +particle of the shell. The true lover of an oyster should have some +feeling for his little favorite, and patronize establishments only where +they contrive to open them (Boston fashion) so dexterously that the +mollusk is hardly conscious he has been removed from his lodging “till +he feels the teeth of the piscivorous gourmet tickling him to death.” + +=Roast Oysters on half-shell.=—Open a dozen large oysters on deep shell; +add a walnut of butter, with a little salt and mixed pepper (red and +black) and a pinch of cracker-dust to each. Place them on a broiler over +a sharp, clear fire until done, and serve. + +Families not having all the conveniences for roasting oysters +“restaurant fashion” will find the above receipt acceptable; though I +must confess it is quite a treat to our Western cousins to ask them down +into the kitchen of an evening, and serve up a peck of oysters roasted +in the shell direct from the fire, with no other tool to pick them out +of the coals than the old tongs the moment they pop open. You may +possibly burn a finger or two, but what of that so long as the young +folks have had a good time? + +=Oysters escalloped.=—In a deep yellow dish place a layer of oysters and +cover them with cracker-dust (add an ounce of butter to each layer of +cracker-dust); pepper and salt to taste; another layer of oysters, +another of cracker-dust, and so on until the dish is full. Moisten the +dish with the juice of the oysters or hot water to prevent its burning, +and bake a nice brown. + +=Oyster Patties.=—Roll out some very light puff paste half an inch +thick; stamp it in rounds with a cutter three inches in diameter; press +a small cutter two inches in diameter on the middle of each to the depth +of a quarter of an inch. Place the rounds on a buttered tin, baste them +lightly with egg, and bake in a quick oven. When done take them out, +remove the centre-piece, scoop out a little of the inside, and fill the +shells with the prepared oysters. + +Parboil twenty-five oysters in their own liquor; remove the oysters and +season the liquid with lemon-peel, nutmeg, and pepper; strain, and +thicken with a heaping tablespoonful of flour, one and a half ounces of +butter, a wineglassful of rich cream; mix, and then add the oysters. +Simmer all together a few minutes, fill the shells, and serve. + +Scallops and clams cut up fine, with a sauce made on the same principle, +make a very nice patty. + +=Oyster toast.=—Select fifteen plump oysters; mince them, and season +with mixed pepper and a pinch of nutmeg; beat the yolks of four eggs and +mix them with half a pint of cream. Put the whole into a saucepan and +set it over the fire to simmer till thick; stir it well, and do not let +it boil lest it should curdle. Toast five pieces of bread and butter +them; when your dish is near boiling-point remove it from the fire and +pour it over the toast. + +=Fried oysters.=—Beat up the yolks of four eggs with three +tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and season them with a teaspoonful of salt +and a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; beat up thoroughly. Dry twelve +fat oysters on a napkin; dip them in the egg-batter, then in +cracker-dust; shake off the loose cracker-dust, dip them again in the +egg-batter, and lastly roll them in fine _bread-crumbs_. Fry in very hot +fat, using fat enough to cover them. The oil gives them a nice flavor. +(Private receipt of a prominent Philadelphia caterer.) + +=Broiled oysters.=—Rub the bars of a wire broiler with a little sweet +butter. Dry twelve large, fat oysters and place them upon the broiler +_plain_. Broil them over a clear fire, and when done on both sides send +to table on a piece of buttered toast, with a little melted butter in a +separate dish. Should you _hanker_ after a delightful case of dyspepsia +cover them with egg-batter and roll them in crumbs before broiling. + +=Oysters a la Poulette.=—Blanch a dozen oysters in their own liquor; +salt and remove the oysters; add a tablespoonful of butter, the juice of +half a lemon, a gill of cream, and a teaspoonful of flour. Beat up the +yolk of one egg while the sauce is simmering; add the egg, and simmer +the whole until it thickens. Place the oysters on a hot dish, pour the +sauce over them, sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top, and send to +table. (This is a favorite dish of Hotel Brunswick _habitués_ in New +York.) + + + + + _SOUPS._ + + +Sir Henry Thompson says “that soups, whether clear or thick, are far too +lightly esteemed by most classes. They are too often regarded as the +mere prelude to a meal, to be swallowed hastily or disregarded +altogether.” And the _Almanach des Gourmands_ tells us that ten folio +volumes would not contain the receipts of all the soups that have been +invented in the Parisian kitchen alone. + +=Soup Stock.=—In making soups from raw meats break the bones apart, +place them in a pot, cover them with _cold water_, and boil slowly for +five or six hours; add salt to quicken the rising of the scum, which +should be thoroughly removed. Cut up three carrots, three turnips, two +heads of celery, and two onions; add to the stock, together with six or +eight cloves, a bouquet of herbs, and a teaspoonful of whole peppers; +strain into a deep saucepan, and clarify with the white of egg. It will +then be ready for an indefinite variety of soups. + +=Veal Stock.=—Chop up three slices of bacon and two pounds of the neck +of veal; place in a stew-pan with a pint of water or beef stock, and +simmer half an hour; then add two quarts of stock, one onion, a carrot, +a bouquet of herbs, four stalks of celery, half a teaspoonful of bruised +whole peppers, and a pinch of nutmeg with a teaspoonful of salt; boil +gently for two hours, removing the scum in the meantime. Strain into an +earthen crock, and when cold remove the fat. A few bones of poultry +added, with an additional quantity of water or stock, will improve it. + +=Veal Broth.=—Stew a knuckle of veal in about three quarts of water; add +two ounces of rice, a little salt, and a blade of mace; boil until the +liquor is reduced one-half. + +=Gumbo Soup.=—Cut up two chickens, two slices of ham, and two onions +into dice; flour them, and fry the whole to a light brown; then fill the +frying-pan with boiling water, stir it a few minutes, and turn the whole +into a saucepan containing three quarts of boiling water; let it boil +forty minutes, removing the scum. In the meantime soak three pints of +ochra in cold water twenty minutes; cut them into thin slices, and add +to the other ingredients; let it boil one hour and a half. Add a quart +of canned tomatoes and a cupful of boiled rice half an hour before +serving. + +Southern housekeepers use the leaves of the sassafras-tree as a +substitute for ochra when the latter is scarce and dear. They gather the +young leaves and spread them in the shade for a few days; then they dry +them in the sun. When they are thoroughly dried they put them in a bag +and hang them up for two or three months; they are then pulverized and +bottled. + +=Mock Turtle Soup.=—Take half a calf’s head with the skin on; remove the +brains. Wash the head in several waters, and let it soak in cold water +for an hour. Put it in a saucepan with five quarts of beef stock; let it +simmer gently for an hour; remove the scum carefully, take up the head, +let it get cold, and cut the meat from the bones into pieces an inch +square and set them in the ice-box. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a +frying-pan; mince a large onion and fry it in the butter until nicely +browned, and add to the stock in which the head was cooked. Return the +bones to the stock; simmer the soup, removing the scum until no more +rises. Put in a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, a bouquet of +herbs, a dozen outer stalks of celery, two blades of mace, and the rind +of one lemon, grated; salt and pepper to taste. Boil gently for two +hours, and strain the soup through a flannel cloth. Mix three ounces of +Barlow’s prepared browned flour with a pint of the soup, and simmer +until it thickens; then add it to the soup. Take the pieces of head out +of the ice-box and add to the soup; let them simmer until quite tender. +Before serving add a little Worcestershire sauce, a tablespoonful of +anchovy paste, a gobletful of port or sherry, and two lemons sliced, +each slice cut into quarters with the rind trimmed off. Warm the wine a +very little before adding it to the soup. Keep in ice-box three or four +days before using. Serve the brains as a side-dish. + +=Pea Soup.=—Cut two large slices of ham into dice with a sliced onion, +and fry them in a little bacon fat until they are lightly browned. Cut +up one turnip, one large carrot, four outer stalks of celery, and one +leek into small pieces; add these last ingredients to the ham and onion, +and let them simmer for fifteen minutes; then pour over them three +quarts of corned-beef water or hot water, and add a pint of split peas +which have been soaked in cold water all night; boil gently until the +peas are quite tender, stirring constantly to prevent burning; then add +salt and pepper to taste, with a teaspoonful of brown sugar. Remove the +soup from the fire and rub through a sieve; if it is not thick enough to +suit your taste or fancy add a few ounces of flour mixed smoothly in a +little cold milk; return the soup to the fire, and simmer for half an +hour. Cut up four slices of American bread into small dice, and fry the +pieces in very hot fat until nicely browned; place them on a napkin or +towel, and add a few of them to each plate or tureen of soup just before +it goes to table. + +=Economical Pea Soup.=—Boil two quarts of green-pea hulls in four quarts +of water, in which beef, mutton, or fowl has been boiled, four hours; +then add a bunch or bouquet of herbs, salt and pepper, a tablespoonful +of butter, and a quart of milk. Rub through a hair sieve, thicken with a +little flour, and serve with croutons, as in the foregoing receipt. + +=Tomato Soup.=—Cut four ounces of ham into dice; slice two onions and +fry with ham in two ounces of butter; when browned turn them into a +saucepan containing three quarts of stock or corned-beef water, and add +three carrots, two turnips, one red pepper (lady-finger), and a dozen +outer stalks of celery; simmer gently for one hour, then add a quart of +canned tomatoes; boil gently for another hour, rub the whole through a +sieve, and simmer again with the liquor a few minutes; add salt and +serve with croutons. + +=Oxtail Soup.=—Take two oxtails; cut them into joints, and cut up each +joint into four pieces; put them into a pan with two ounces of butter, +and fry them ten minutes. Slice two onions, one turnip, two carrots, a +dozen outer stalks of celery, and fry in the same butter, with three +slices of bacon cut up fine; fry to a light brown. Turn the ingredients +into a saucepan with a quart of stock or ham-water, and boil quickly for +half an hour; then add two more quarts of stock, a bouquet of herbs, two +bay-leaves, a dozen whole peppers crushed, a few cloves, and salt to +taste. + +Simmer until the meat is quite tender; then take it out, strain the +soup, skim off the fat, and thicken with two ounces of Barlow’s prepared +flour; return the meat to the soup, add a tablespoonful of +Worcestershire, a cupful of sherry, and serve with grated rusks. + +=Chicken Soup.=—Take three young male chickens; cut them up, put them in +a saucepan with three quarts of veal stock; a sliced carrot, one turnip, +and one head of celery may be put with them and removed before the soup +is thickened. Let them simmer for an hour. Remove all the white flesh; +return the rest of the birds to the soup, and boil gently for two hours. +Pour a little of the liquid over a quarter of a pound of the crumbs of +bread, and when they are well soaked put it in a mortar with the white +flesh of the birds, and pound the whole to a smooth paste; add a pinch +of ground mace, salt, and a little cayenne pepper, press the mixture +through a sieve, and boil once more, adding a pint of boiling cream; +thicken with a very little flour mixed in cold milk, remove the bones, +and serve. + +=Chicken Soup, No. 2.=—Cut up one chicken; put into a stew-pan two +quarts of cold water, a teaspoonful of salt, and one pod of red pepper +(lady-finger); when half done add two dessert-spoonfuls of well-washed +rice. When thoroughly cooked remove the bird from the soup, tear a part +of the breast into shreds (saving the balance of the fowl for a salad), +and add it to the soup with a wineglassful of cream. + +=Beef Tea.=—Take half a pound of lean beef; cut it up into small bits; +let it soak in a pint of water three-quarters of an hour, then put both +into a quart champagne bottle with just a suspicion of salt; cork +tightly, and wire the cork, so as to prevent its popping out. Set the +bottle into a saucepanful of warm water, boil gently an hour and a half, +and strain through a napkin. + +Beef tea administered often to a patient without the fibrine of the meat +will tend to weaken instead of strengthening the invalid. I always add +about a teaspoonful of finely-chopped raw meat to a goblet of the tea, +and let it stand in the tea about five minutes before serving. + + + + + _FISH._ + + +Codfish is about the best fish that comes to our market, but it is so +cheap and plentiful that we do not appreciate it quite as much as we +would if the price was twenty-five cents a pound and its _season_ to +last not over two months. Trout and all delicate fish lose their flavor +long before they reach New York, and they should be eaten within half an +hour after they are caught; while the cod improves in flavor if kept for +a day or two with the addition of a little salt to give it firmness. + +The “shoulder part” pleases _my_ palate the most. Have you ever tried a +codfish steak for breakfast, dredged in corn meal and fried in salt +pork-fat? It is splendid. A rasher of bacon served with it does no harm. + +In broiling cod, haddock, bass, etc., always tie them up in a bag or +towel, and lay the fish in the fish-pan, adding a little salt, a pint of +Rhine wine, or cupful of vinegar, and cover the fish with _cold water_, +allowing it to boil gently till done. Drawn-butter sauce with boiled +fish is easy to make and pleases almost everybody. + +=Baked Cod.=—When purchasing a four-pound cod ask your fish-dealer to +send you three or four “codfish-heads,” and as soon as the basket comes +into the house rub a little salt on the fish, chop the heads into six +pieces each, and sprinkle a little salt over them. Place them in the +centre of the baking-pan (to be used as supports for the fish), with two +ounces of butter, one carrot, a turnip, a potato, and one onion cut into +slices, two blades of mace, a teaspoonful white pepper, one +tablespoonful celery-seed, six cloves, and a cupful of red wine. Set the +pan in the oven while you prepare the cod. + +Soak in cold water until soft a sufficiency of bread to fill the fish; +drain off the water and pound the bread to a paste; mix with it two +tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two raw eggs, a tablespoonful +Worcestershire sauce, with salt and pepper to taste. Put this stuffing +inside the fish and sew it up; place the cod in the pan with two or +three pieces of butter on the upper side of the fish, and baste it +frequently; when it is cooked lay the fish on a hot platter, and garnish +with fried oysters, if convenient. Add two tablespoonfuls of Barlow’s +prepared flour to the pan, a wineglass of sherry; mix, and strain the +gravy into a sauce-boat. + +=Salt Codfish with Cream.=—Soak one pound and a half of salt codfish +over-night. Next morning set the fish to simmer for about two hours; +drain off the water and strip the fish into shreds; place it in a +saucepan with a quart of milk and two ounces of butter; mix a +tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and add to +the fish. Let the whole come to a boil, remove the dish from the fire, +beat up one egg to a froth, add it to the fish, stir, and serve +immediately. + +=Salt Mackerel Broiled.=—Soak a No. 2 chicken mackerel in cold water +over-night; pour off the water and let the fish stand in milk enough to +cover it for one hour before broiling; baste the fish with butter, and +broil. When done plunge the fish into hot water for one minute, and send +to table with a dish of melted butter, the juice of one lemon, and a +teaspoonful of chopped parsley mixed together. + +=Broiled Lobster (for breakfast).=—Cut the tail part of a lobster in +two, rub a little sweet oil over the meat, and broil. When done brush a +little butter over it, with the juice of half a lemon and just the +suspicion of cayenne. Place the meat back into the shell, and send to +table with a dish of broiled tomatoes and a fresh-baked potato. + +=Lobster en Brochette.=—Cut up the tail of a lobster into square pieces; +take a few thin slices of bacon and cut into lengths to match the pieces +of lobster; place them on a skewer alternately, and broil; baste as in +“broiled lobster,” and send to table on a bed of water-cress. + +=Baked Shad.=—Make a dressing of bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, and salt +worked to a paste; fill the shad with the mixture, sew it up, and place +it lengthwise in a baking-pan with a little water and an ounce of +butter. Fill the space between the fish and the sides of the pan with +slices of raw potatoes one-fourth of an inch thick, and serve fish and +potatoes together. Add a spoonful of Barlow’s prepared flour to the +gravy, and serve. + +=“Tenderloin” Trout.=—Take a large catfish and cut it up into pieces two +inches in length and one inch in thickness. Beat up three eggs with a +little salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire; dip the fish +in the egg-batter, and roll in corn meal or bread-crumbs. Fry a deep +brown, garnish with lemon, parsley, or celery-tops, and send to table +with a cucumber salad. + +=Fricasseed Eels.=—Cut up three pounds of eels into pieces of three +inches in length; put them into a stew-pan, and cover them with Rhine +wine (or two-thirds water and one-third vinegar); add fifteen oysters, +two pieces of lemon, a bouquet of herbs, one onion quartered, six +cloves, three stalks celery, a pinch of cayenne, pepper and salt to +taste. Stew the eels one hour; remove them from the dish; strain the +liquor. Put it back into the stew-pan with a gill of cream and an ounce +of butter rolled in flour; simmer gently a few minutes, pour over the +fish, and serve with a toasted milk cracker. + +=Soyer’s Boiled Salmon.=—I always prefer dressing this fish in slices +from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of salt +and water twenty minutes. The whole fish may be boiled, but it requires +longer boiling. Salmon eats firmer by not putting it into water until it +is boiling. Dress the fish upon a napkin and serve with lobster sauce, +or plain melted butter with a few sprigs of parsley boiled a few minutes +in it. + +I generally boil a salmon whole, or head and shoulders in one piece, +with salt, and cover the fish with equal parts of warm water and Rhine +wine, two or three bay-leaves, a few cloves, etc. When done I use the +water in making sauce by reducing one-half, adding butter rolled in +flour to thicken, pinch of cayenne, and the juice of one lemon. + +=Eel Patties.=—Take three medium-sized eels and cut them up into inch +pieces. Put them in a stew-pan, add salt, and cover them with cold +water. When the water comes to a boil take them off the fire, wash them +in cold water, scrape off any fat that may adhere, return them to the +stew-pan with just enough hot water to cover them, and add a blade of +mace, a bay-leaf, a few whole peppers, a few sprigs of parsley, and one +lemon cut into slices. Stew gently until the fish will separate from the +bone; remove the fish from the broth, pick it into small pieces, and set +them aside; reduce the broth a little, strain, and thicken with flour +and butter. Return the fish to the broth, simmer a moment, fill your +patties and serve; make patty-shells as directed for oyster patties. + +=Drawn-Butter Sauce.=—Season a cupful of flour with salt, pepper, and a +pinch of nutmeg, mix it with some water into a paste, and work in a +piece of butter about the size of an egg; put the pan over the fire and +boil for twenty minutes; then take it off, add some fresh butter in +small portions at a time, stirring continually to prevent the butter +from rising to the top. Add the juice of half a lemon before serving. + +=Maitre d’Hotel Butter.=—Mix four ounces of butter with a heaping +tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, and the juice of +three lemons; serve with boiled fish, etc. + +=Anchovy Sauce.=—An easy way of making anchovy sauce is to stir two or +three teaspoonfuls of prepared essence or paste of anchovy (which may be +bought at your grocer’s) into a pint of melted butter; let the sauce +boil a few minutes, and flavor with lemon-juice. + +=Lobster Sauce.=—Break the shell of the lobster into small pieces. Pour +over them one pint of water or veal stock and a pinch of salt; simmer +gently until the liquid is reduced one-half. Mix two ounces of butter +with an ounce of flour, strain the liquid upon it, and stir all over the +fire until the mixture thickens; do not let it boil. Add two +tablespoonfuls of the lobster meat, the juice of half a lemon, and +serve. + +The spawn and coral mixed with double the quantity of butter, a little +cayenne, and pounded in a mortar to a paste, then pressed through a hair +sieve, is called lobster-butter; a spoonful of it added to the sauce +will improve it; the rest of the butter may be used in garnishing and +decorating cold salmon, etc. + +=Caper Sauce.=—Chop up two tablespoonfuls of capers and add them to half +a pint of melted butter, with the piece of one lemon, a teaspoonful +Worcestershire sauce, and a pinch of cayenne; put on the fire and simmer +a few minutes; mix a teaspoonful of flour with a very little cold water, +and add to the sauce. + +=Celery Sauce.=—Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, melt it, and +add two heads of celery cut up into inch pieces; stir the celery in the +pan until it is quite tender; add salt and pepper, with a little mace. +Mix a tablespoonful of flour in a cupful of stock and simmer half an +hour. A cupful of cream may be used instead of the stock. + +=Oyster Sauce.=—Blanch one dozen oysters in their own liquor; then take +the oysters out and add two blades of mace, an ounce of melted butter, +and a cupful of thickened cream; return the oysters to the sauce, let +them come to a boil, and serve; salt to taste. + +=Oyster Sauce, No. 2.=—Take a dozen large oysters and boil them in their +own liquor two minutes; remove them from the liquid, and quarter them. +Mix an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour in a stew-pan, add the +oyster liquor, a pinch of cayenne or two drops tobasco pepper-sauce, +with a little nutmeg and half a pint of cream. Stir the whole gently +over the fire until the sauce is smooth and thick. Add the pieces of +oysters, simmer a moment longer, and serve. + +=Egg Sauce.=—Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan with a +dessert-spoonful of flour and a very little water; simmer gently. When +ready to boil take the saucepan from the fire and stir in two ounces +more of butter and three cold hard-boiled eggs cut up small; sprinkle a +little salt on the egg. + +=Dutch Sauce.=—Blend together two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of +flour; put it into a stew-pan with equal quantities of stock and vinegar +(from the bottle containing imported mixed pickles), say a wineglassful +of each; stir for two minutes, and add the beaten yolks of two eggs, +keeping up the stirring till the mixture thickens; if you let it boil it +will curdle. Add the juice of half a lemon before serving. + +=Gravy for Baked Fish.=—Brown a sliced onion in a little butter and add +gradually a pint of stock; thicken with a tablespoonful of Barlow’s +prepared flour, and let the mixture simmer with a bunch of parsley +nearly half an hour; strain the gravy and add salt and a teaspoonful +walnut-catsup. + + + + + _BOILING._ + + +Before boiling joints of meat the cook should think for a moment whether +she desires the juices to go into the water, as in soup, gravies, etc., +or to be retained in the meat itself. If they are to be retained put the +meat into fast-boiling water, and let it boil for ten minutes to make +the outside hard and thus prevent the juice escaping; then add cold +water equal in quantity to about one-half of the boiling water; this +will reduce the temperature to about 160° (Liebig), at which point the +meat (raw) should be kept until thoroughly done, which, however, takes a +much longer time than the ordinary mode. Care must be taken to remove +the scum when the water is on the point of boiling, or it will quickly +sink and spoil the appearance of the meat. + +If it is desired to extract the juice from raw meat, cover it with cold +water and simmer slowly as before. + +Salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh meat. + +Dried and smoked meat should be soaked for some hours before it is put +into the water. Place your meat in a saucepan sufficiently large to +contain the joint easily and cover with water, and no more. + +=Boiled Leg of Mutton.=—Cut off the shank-bone, trim the knuckle, and +wash the mutton; put it into a pot with salt and cover with boiling +water. Allow it to boil a few minutes; skim the surface clean, draw your +pot to the side of the fire, and simmer until done. Time, from two to +two hours and a half. + +Do not _try_ the leg with a fork to determine whether it is done or not. +You will lose all the juices of the meat by so doing. + +Serve with caper sauce, or melted butter with a few small capers added. + +The liquor from the boiling may be converted into soup with the addition +of a ham-bone and a few vegetables boiled together. + +English housekeepers hang up a leg of mutton from two days to at least a +week before using, weather allowing. + +=Corned Beef.=—Put your corned beef in a saucepan or pot and cover with +cold water; boil gently until done. Allow half an hour to the pound +after it has come to a boil. + +The ingredients used in making a pickle for corned beef harden the +fibres of the meat, so that to plunge it into hot water would not only +make it tough and hard but indigestible. + +=Boiled Tongue.=—Soak a smoked or dry tongue over-night. Next morning +set it in a pot of water and simmer slowly for five or six hours. Remove +the pot from the fire, and when the water has cooled take out the +tongue, tear off the skin, and trim off the ragged end. + +=Boiled Ham.=—Soak the ham over-night; scrape off the rusty spots, put +into a pot, and cover with plenty of cold water; add a bouquet of herbs +and a few cloves to the water, and boil very slowly until done; remove +the pot from the fire, and when cold take out the ham, take off the +skin, trim the fat off around the edge. Take half a cupful of brown +sugar, a teaspoonful of prepared browned flour, and moisten with port +wine; cover this paste over the fat of the ham, and set it in a very hot +oven until the mixture froths. + +=Boiled Chicken.=—Wash a chicken in lukewarm water; truss it, put it +into hot water, let it come to a boil, then draw it to one side of the +fire and let it simmer gently until ready; remove the scum as it rises. +The more slowly it boils the whiter and tenderer it will be. Add a very +little salt, and half a lemon cut into small pieces, to the water before +boiling. Serve with any white or cream sauce. + +=Boiled Turkey.=—Cassell’s work on cookery tells us that “there is an +old proverb which says that a turkey boiled is a turkey spoiled, but in +this couplet there is more rhyme than reason, as a boiled turkey forms a +dainty dish, most acceptable to persons with delicate stomachs, who fear +the richness of the roasted bird.” Take a plump hen-turkey, singe, draw +it, and truss as you would to roast; make a stuffing of herbs, salt, +pepper, bread-crumbs, a little mace and grated lemon-peel, with a few +oysters chopped up, a spoonful of butter, and a raw egg; mix your +dressing well together, fill the bird, and sew it up; tie up the turkey +in a flowered cloth to make it white, and simmer until tender. Time, +about two hours and a half. + +Serve with oyster sauce. + +=Boiled Capon.=—Boil a capon as you would a large chicken, add a bouquet +of herbs to the water, and serve with egg sauce. + +When a boiled fowl has been so far used that meat slices cannot be +carved from it, the remains may be cut up for hash, seasoned with salt +and pepper, moistened with hot water (or the water in which the fowl has +been boiled); stir the dish while it is simmering to prevent burning; +serve on a piece of buttered toast, and place two poached eggs on top of +the hash for each person. Or mince the remains of fowl very fine with an +equal quantity of calf’s brains or sweet-breads; season with salt, +pepper, and a little nutmeg; add a little cracker-dust, two raw eggs; +moisten with Rhine wine or cream, mix well together, roll into balls the +size of an egg, dip into egg-batter, then into crumbs, and fry in very +hot fat. + + + + + _ENTREES._ + + +=Fillet of Beef.=—Cut the fillet (tenderloin) out of a sirloin of beef; +trim off the fat and the sack or skin, and lard it with fat pork cut +into narrow strips two inches long. Put each strip of pork (or bacon) +into a larding-needle, and with the point of your needle take up as much +flesh as will hold the strip of pork, allowing about half an inch of +each end exposed after removing the needle; repeat this process as +neatly and as evenly as possible and at equal distances until finished. +Rub a little sweet oil and salt over the fillet; set it one side a few +minutes while you prepare the roasting (baking) pan for it. + +Chop up into small pieces a few beef or veal bones, and cover the bottom +of your pan with them. Add three slices of bacon, two carrots, two +onions, and one turnip sliced, with a pint of stock. Season with salt, +bruised whole peppers, a bay-leaf, a few cloves, and a blade of mace. +Place the fillet in the pan with the larded side up. Moisten it with a +wineglassful of vinegar, and bake. When done remove the fillet, add a +tablespoonful of Barlow’s prepared flour and a glass of sherry or port +to the pan, mix, and strain the sauce on to the fillet. Chop up half a +dozen button-mushrooms, sprinkle over the meat, and serve. + +=Beef a la Mode.=—Take three pounds of fresh rump of beef; remove the +fat and sinews. Cut fat bacon into long strips and lard the meat with it +through and through. Mix together a few cloves, mace, allspice, whole +peppers, salt-spoonful of cayenne, a tablespoonful of powdered herbs, +and a clove of garlic, with half a pint of vinegar. Put the meat into an +earthen crock or deep stew-pan, with a thin piece of bacon under it; add +the vinegar and seasoning and a pint of stock, with a walnut of butter +rolled in flour. Cover the crock and simmer gently until done. When +preferred vegetables may be added and served with the beef, allowing +plenty of stock or water for them to boil nicely. + +=Beef Stew.=—Take a three pound piece of rump of beef; remove the bone, +bind it up tight, and put it in a pot or stew-pan that will just hold +it. Season with ground spices. Fry two large onions sliced, and add them +to it, with two carrots, two turnips, a few cloves, a blade of mace, a +head of celery, and a potato quartered; add stock enough to cover the +meat. Simmer as gently as possible until quite tender. Remove the fat, +take out the meat, and add half a pint of port, a wineglassful of +vinegar, a tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce to the gravy; strain over +the meat, and serve with a garnish of assorted vegetables arranged +neatly around the dish. + +=Beefsteak Pie.=—Cover the sides of a raised pie-mould with butter, and +put a lining of paste made in the following manner neatly into it: Chop +a quarter of a pound of suet; put it into a stew-pan with the same +quantity of butter and a pint of water. When boiling pass them through a +sieve into two pounds of flour, and stir it with a spoon until cold. +When the paste is quite smooth roll it out and it is ready for the +lining. Cut up two pounds of round or rump steak into pieces about two +inches square; dust them with flour; season with parsley, salt, and +pepper; lay them round the mould; fill it with alternate layers of +potatoes cut into quarters, and meat. Make a lid for the mould with some +of the paste, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake three hours. Put +an ornamental centre to the cover, that it may be more easily raised to +throw in some gravy as soon as it is baked. + +=Calf’s Head.=—The first thing to do on receiving a calf’s head is to +remove the brains, throw them into cold water for an hour, drain, then +boil them in salt and water for twenty minutes, and set them aside. + +Put the head into cold water and wash it well, and leave it there to +draw out the blood for an hour; then take it out and dry it well with a +towel. + +Bone a calf’s head in the following manner: Place the calf’s head on the +table with the front part of the head facing you; draw the sharp point +of a knife from the back part of the head right down to the nose, making +an incision down to the bone of the skull; then with the knife clear the +scalp and cheeks from the bones right and left, always keeping the point +of the knife close to the bone. If you have not previously removed the +brains, chop the head in two and remove them as carefully as possible. + +When the head has been boned wash it well, wipe it with a clean cloth, +season the inside with salt and pepper, roll it up with the tongue, tie +it up, and blanch it in hot water for ten minutes; then put it into cold +water a few minutes, wipe it dry, and set it aside until wanted. + +=Fried Calf’s Head.=—Cut the prepared calf’s head into pieces two inches +wide; lay them for three hours in a pickle made of two tablespoonfuls of +lemon-juice, a wineglassful of Rhine wine, salt and pepper, and a pinch +of mace. Take them out, drain them, and dip each piece in egg-batter; +roll in cracker-dust, fry in hot fat, and send to table with sauce +tartare. + +=Sauce Tartare.=—Mince two small English pickles, one-fourth of an +onion, and a few sprigs of parsley together. Add them to three +tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, and the juice of half a lemon. Mix +and serve (see mayonnaise sauce). A few tarragon leaves will improve the +sauce. + +=Calf’s Head, Maitre d’Hotel.=—Cut up your prepared calf’s head into +neat slices, and simmer gently for two hours; take out the pieces of +meat, place on a hot dish, and cover them with Maitre d’Hotel sauce; +garnish with parsley. + +=Calf’s Head Broiled.=—Cut up a prepared calf’s head into pieces quite +three inches wide; place them in a saucepan, cover with water. Add a +wineglassful of vinegar, and simmer half an hour; then place them in +cold water a few minutes, dry them on a towel, rub a little sweet oil +over each piece, and broil. When done brush melted butter over them with +the juice of half a lemon. + +=Calf’s Head Collared.=—Bone a calf’s head carefully, wash it well, and +wipe it dry; lay the head on the table, and spread on it a force-meat +made of the brain and tongue, and a very little ham mixed with a +tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of thyme, a teaspoonful +of marjoram, the minced yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, a wineglassful +brandy, and a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the head as tightly +as possible, and tie it in a cloth, binding it with tape. Put it into a +saucepan with stock enough to cover it, and add a carrot, a parsnip, one +onion, a sliced lemon, a few bay-leaves, salt, and a dozen bruised +peppers. + +Let it boil gently three hours; then take it out of the cloth and pour +round it a sauce made of a pint of the liquid in which it was boiled, +with a little lemon-juice, two small pickles, and four button-mushrooms +chopped fine. + +=Calf’s Brains en Matelotte.=—Wash the brains in several waters, remove +the skin, and boil them in salt and water with a little vinegar in it +for ten minutes. Take them out and lay them in cold water until wanted. +Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and mix with it a +teaspoonful of flour. Add three button-onions sliced, a teaspoonful +Worcestershire, a clove, a bay-leaf, half a pint of stock, and a +wineglassful of Rhine wine. When these are mixed thoroughly together put +the brains with them and let them stew twenty minutes. + +=Calf’s Brains Fried.=—Prepare the brains as in the foregoing receipt. +Cut them into slices, dip them in egg-batter, roll in crumbs, and fry in +hot fat or butter; garnish with fried parsley. + +=Calf’s Brains and Tongue.=—Prepare the brains as heretofore +recommended, and chop them. Put them in a saucepan with two +tablespoonfuls of butter, a little chopped parsley, the juice of half a +lemon, salt, and cayenne pepper. Skin and trim the boiled tongue, place +it in the middle of the dish and pour the sauce and brains round it, and +send to table. + +=Stewed Sweet-Breads.=—Soak two sweet-breads in cold water for one hour; +change the water twice; put them in boiling water ten minutes till they +are firm, then take them out and place them in cold water until wanted. + +Place them in a stew-pan, cover them with stock, and simmer nearly an +hour; take them out, place them on a hot dish, remove the gravy from the +fire a minute, and add to it gradually the yolk of an egg and four +tablespoonfuls of cream; put this over a fire till the sauce thickens, +but do not let it boil. Before serving add the juice of a lemon, pour +the sauce around the sweet-breads, and send to table with a dish of +green peas. + +They may be cut up and fried after dipping in egg and rolled in crumbs. + +Sweet-breads are very nice broiled and served with Maitre d’Hotel +butter; garnish with parsley. + +=Pork Chops, Tomato Sauce.=—Broil three nice pork chops, and when well +done sprinkle them with pepper and salt, place on a hot dish, and serve +with tomato sauce poured around them. + +=Tomato Sauce.=—Stew half a dozen tomatoes in a pint of stock, with a +slice of ham cut into dice, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, three drops of +tabasco pepper-sauce, and three small pickled onions; stir the whole +over a gentle fire until done, then press them through a sieve, add +salt, and put the sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot. + +Pork tenderloin baked or broiled is acceptable with sauce Robert. + +=Sauce Robert.=—Slice two onions, and fry them in butter until they +begin to turn yellow; pour over them as much brown gravy as will cover +them; add a tablespoonful of French or German mustard (do not use +English mustard), a teaspoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper. +Simmer very gently, adding more gravy, if necessary, till the onions are +tender. Rub them through a fine sieve. Mix with the pulp a very little +more stock or gravy, and boil once. This is a simple recipe, and one +that any housekeeper can easily make. + +=Pork Sausages.=—The most wholesome way to cook sausages is to bake +them. Place them in a baking-pan in a single layer, and bake in a +moderate oven; turn them over when they are half done, that they may be +equally browned all over. Send to table with pieces of toast between +each sausage. Cut the toast about the same size as the sausage, and +moisten it with a very little of the sausage-fat. + +They make a nice entrée by placing them on a mound of mashed potatoes +and served with apple-sauce, or small apple-fritters neatly arranged +round them. + +About the best sausages that come to the New York market are the +Deerfoot Farm sausages; fancy grocers retail them for about twenty cents +a pound. Split them in two and broil them, and send to table with Boston +brown bread toast, buttered. Use your sausage-fat for frying hash, etc. + +=Breast of Mutton with Peas.=—Cut up two pounds of the breast of mutton +into square pieces; put them into a stew-pan with an ounce of butter, +and brown them nicely; then cover with hot water and stew for an hour. +Take the meat from the pan and skim all the fat from the gravy; place +the meat in a clean saucepan with one onion sliced, a bouquet of herbs, +pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, and stew for one hour; add a quart +of young peas, remove the herbs, simmer fifteen minutes, and serve. + +String beans cut into dice, or boiled macaroni, may be substituted for +the peas. + +=Curry of Mutton.=—Put six button-onions, cut fine, and an ounce of +butter into a saucepan with an ounce of curry-powder, a teaspoonful of +salt, a tablespoonful of flour, and half a pint of cream; stir until +smooth. Remove the bones from two pounds of mutton, cut it into neat +pieces, and fry a light brown; put the meat into a saucepan, pour the +sauce over it, and boil gently one hour and a half. Place the meat on a +hot dish and arrange a border of broiled rice neatly round it. + +Cold boiled mutton cut into slices may be used instead of the raw meat. + +Veal may be used instead of mutton. + +=Mutton Hash with Poached Eggs.=—Take a pound and a half of the remains +of roast mutton, chop it up fine, and put it in a stew-pan with a cupful +of mutton gravy or stock; season with salt, pepper, and a little grated +nutmeg; add a tablespoonful of Barlow’s prepared flour, and let the meat +heat gradually until hot. Do not let it boil. Simmer twenty minutes, and +serve with poached eggs placed neatly round the dish. + +A spoonful of Worcestershire sauce may be added to the dish, if desired. + +=Ragout of Mutton.=—Slice two turnips, two carrots, and two onions; put +them in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, and brown them. Dust in a +little flour and stir the whole to prevent browning too quickly, and +turn them out upon a hot dish until wanted. + +Cut up cold roast mutton into square pieces, and brown them on each side +in the same pan in which you browned your vegetables; then add half a +pint of hot water, salt and pepper, a few sprigs of parsley, and the +sliced vegetables. Stew gently until the vegetables are tender; arrange +the vegetables in the centre of the dish, with the meat as a border; +pour the sauce over all, and serve. + +=Mutton Pie.=—Cut into square pieces about two pounds of cold roast or +boiled mutton; trim off a portion of the fat; quarter three kidneys; put +the meat into a pie-dish, season with two tablespoonfuls of chopped +parsley, a tablespoonful of powdered herbs, salt and pepper, and half an +onion minced; add half a pint of light stock or water, a wineglassful of +port wine; cover the dish with puff paste, brush an egg over it, and +bake an hour and a half. + +Cold lamb makes a very nice pie. + +=Veal Croquettes.=—Remove the gristle, skin, and sinews from a pound of +cold veal; mince it finely with four ounces of cold boiled beef or +calf’s tongue; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put into a saucepan +an ounce of butter rolled in flour, a wineglassful of cream; add the +minced meat, and stir for twenty minutes over a slow fire. (If too dry +moisten with stock.) Turn the preparation upon a round pie-board; spread +it to a smooth layer about an inch thick, and set it in the ice-box to +get cold and stiff. It must then be divided into about two dozen pieces, +each piece rolled into the form of a cork or round ball over +bread-crumbs, then dipped in beaten egg and again rolled in crumbs. +Handle carefully so as not to break them. Fry in boiling fat. + +=Fricassee of Veal.=—Take two pounds of lean veal free from skin and +bone, and cut it into pieces convenient for serving; fry them in melted +butter until the flesh is firm without having acquired any color; dredge +a tablespoonful of flour upon them, add a little grated lemon-peel, and +gradually as much boiling veal stock as will cover the meat; simmer +until tender. Take out the meat and add to the gravy a gill of boiling +cream, salt, cayenne, and a pinch of powdered mace. Beat the yolks of +two eggs in a bowl; add gradually a little of the sauce (after it has +cooled a few minutes), then add it carefully to the remainder. Return +the meat to the sauce, and let the saucepan remain near the fire until +the eggs are set. Add the juice of half a lemon and serve immediately. + +=Fricassee of Lamb.=—Take a breast of lamb and cut it into pieces about +an inch and a half square; season with salt and pepper. Put them into a +saucepan, with a quartered onion, three cloves, a bay-leaf, and three +ounces of butter. Cover the saucepan closely, and let it steam gently +for half an hour, shaking it occasionally to prevent sticking. Add a +pint of boiling water; cover closely once more and boil gently for one +hour; then strain the sauce and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour +(mix the flour smoothly with a little cold water before adding it to the +sauce), boil a moment longer, and serve. + +A tablespoonful of very small A. G. capers may be added before serving. + +=Breast of Lamb with Asparagus Tops.=—Remove the skin and part of the +fat from a breast of lamb, and cut it into neat pieces; dredge a little +flour over them, and place them in a stew-pan with an ounce of butter; +let them remain until nicely browned; cover the meat with warm water, +add a bunch of parsley, two button-onions; simmer until the meat is +cooked; skim off the fat, take out the onions and parsley, and mince the +latter finely; return it to the gravy with a pint of the tops of boiled +asparagus, add salt and pepper, simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. +Canned asparagus may be used when the fresh vegetable is out of season. + +=Fricassee of Chicken.=—Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it into +joints, make a gravy by simmering the trimmings in stock enough to cover +them, with one onion, stock with three cloves, a bouquet of herbs, salt +and pepper. Simmer the gravy for one hour; strain and thicken a cupful +of it with a teaspoonful of flour; let this boil, then put in the +chicken. Draw the saucepan from the fire a few minutes, mix a little of +the sauce with the beaten yolks of two eggs and a cupful of cream. Add +this last mixture to the saucepan, let it get hot, but on no account +allow it to boil, or the eggs will curdle. Serve with the sauce poured +over the chicken, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top. + +=Fried Chicken.=—Take the remains of a cold chicken, place it in a pan, +and simmer with an ounce of butter, a finely-chopped onion, the juice of +a lemon, salt and pepper; let them simmer nearly half an hour; take the +pieces out and dredge them in flour, and fry in boiling fat; turn the +pieces over while cooking, and fry a deep brown. + +Make a dressing of flour, mixed smoothly in a cupful of cold milk and a +little chopped parsley. Add to the pan that the chicken simmered in, +boil gently, strain over the chicken and serve. + +=Chicken with Rice a la Maryland.=—Cut up a chicken into joints, and put +it into a stew-pan with the heart, gizzard, and liver, and a slice or +two of bacon; cover with warm water, and boil gently until the chicken +is quite tender; then take the meat out of the stew-pan, and set it +where it will be kept warm; wash half a pint of rice, add it to the +gravy, season highly with salt and pepper. When done place the rice upon +a dish, lay the chicken on top, and if too dry brush a little melted +butter over it. + +=Chicken Croquettes.=—Pound the white meat of a cold chicken with a cold +boiled sweetbread in a mortar; add a little salt, beat up an egg with a +teaspoonful of flour and a wineglassful of cream; mix the pounded meat +with the batter, put it in a saucepan, and simmer long enough to absorb +the moisture, _stirring all the time_; then turn it into a flat dish, +and set it in the ice-box to get cold and stiff, roll it into balls or +cones, dip in egg-batter, then roll them in crumbs or cracker-dust and +fry in boiling fat. + +=Chicken a l’Italienne.=—Take half a pound of La Favorita macaroni, and +boil it in water with a lump of butter. When it has boiled a quarter of +an hour, drain off the water and cover the macaroni with milk; add salt +and pepper and a whole onion, stock with a few cloves; boil until the +macaroni is tender but unbroken. + +Boil a chicken in the usual manner, cut it up and lay it on a hot dish, +pour the macaroni over it (remove the onion), grate a quarter of a pound +of Parmesan cheese over the dish, and brown it in the oven or with a +salamander. + +=Chicken Patties.=—Pick the meat from a cold chicken, and cut it up into +small dice; place it in a saucepan with a cupful of chicken stock, a +cupful of cream, a piece of butter the size of an egg, rolled in flour, +salt and pepper, and a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel; simmer +gently until it begins to thicken, remove the dish from the fire a few +minutes to cool; beat up the yolks of two eggs with a half teaspoonful +flour, moistened in milk or cream, and add to the saucepan, mix +thoroughly, and draw towards the fire (but do not let it boil) until it +thickens; before serving add the juice of half a lemon. + +Fill your patty-shells with the mixture, one for each person, and serve +(see Oyster Patties for patty-shells). + +=Chicken Pie.=—Line the sides of a pie-dish with a good puff paste. Have +your chicken cooked as for a fricassee, seasoned with salt and pepper +and a little chopped parsley. When they are nearly cooked lay them in a +pie-dish with half a pound of salt pork cut into inch squares, and some +of the paste cut into inch and a half pieces; pour in a part of the +chicken gravy, thicken with a little flour, and cover the dish with the +paste cover. Cut a hole the size of a dollar in the cover, and cover it +with a piece of dough twice the size of the hole (when baked remove this +piece occasionally and examine the interior), brush egg over the pie, +and bake in a quick oven. + +Should the pie become dry pour in more of the gravy. Pigeon Pie may be +made by the above recipe. + +=Chicken Panada= (Invalid cookery).—Take a fresh young chicken and boil +it until quite tender, in sufficient water to cover it. Strip the meat +from the bones and pound in a mortar until quite smooth, with a little +of the liquor it was boiled in; add salt, nutmeg, and a very little +grated lemon-peel. Boil this gently for a few minutes, with sufficient +liquid to make it the consistency of custard. + +=Chicken with Dumplings.=—Disjoint one chicken, and put to boil in cold +water until done. Make dumplings with one pint of flour, one teaspoonful +of yeast-powder, and same quantity of salt. Wet this mixture with milk +and put with chicken until boiled. Take them out and fry in hot fat +until brown; do same with chicken afterwards. Use water in which chicken +was boiled to make gravy. + + M. G. H. + +=Chicken Toast.=—Take the remains of a cold chicken and chop up fine, +put in a saucepan, season with salt and pepper and just a little onion, +with a lump of butter; break over the meat two or three raw eggs; stir +all together, pour it upon nicely-buttered toast, and serve. + +=Chicken Liver en Brochette.=—Wash the livers in cold water, dry them on +a towel, and cut them in two; cut slices of bacon into pieces about the +same size, and put them on a skewer alternately, and broil. When done +brush over them a sauce of melted butter, lemon-juice, pepper and salt. + +=Braise of Duck with Turnips.=—Prepare a domestic duck as for roasting. +Line a small pan, just large enough for the duck, with slices of bacon; +strew over the bottom a little parsley, powdered herbs, and lemon-peel; +lay in the duck, and add a carrot cut into strips, an onion stuck with a +few cloves, and a dozen whole peppers; cover with stock and add a table +spoonful of strong vinegar; baste frequently and simmer until done. Fry +some slices of turnip in butter to a light brown, drain and add them to +the stew-pan after removing the duck, which should be kept hot. When the +turnips are tender remove them, strain the gravy, thickening if +necessary with a little flour or arrowroot; put the duck on a dish, +throw the hot gravy over it, and garnish with the turnips. + +=Braise of Duck with Peas.=—Prepare and cook a duck as in the above +receipt, using green peas instead of carrots and onion, and fry two +onions in butter till they are of a pale brown; boil them to a thick +sauce with some of the duck gravy; season with salt and pepper, and +serve with the peas around the duck and the gravy thrown over. + +=Salmi of Wild Duck.=—Cut up the remains of two roast, underdone wild +ducks into neat pieces and set them aside. Take the bones, giblets, and +ragged pieces, and put them in a stew-pan with a minced onion or +shallot, a salt-spoonful salt; and a very little cayenne; add a pint of +stock and a glass of port wine, boil gently half an hour, strain and +thicken the sauce with a teaspoonful of prepared brown flour. Put the +pieces of duck in a stew-pan, pour the sauce over them, and simmer until +quite hot. Add the juice of a sour orange to the dish and serve. A +garnish of olives is considered an improvement by some. Soak the olives +in cold water one hour; remove the stones with a small vegetable-cutter +and add them to the sauce, before taking the dish from the fire. + +=Salmi of Partridge, Hunter’s Style.=—Take two cold roast partridges, +cut them into joints, and lay them in a saucepan with two ounces of +butter, a gill of Bordeaux or port, the grated rind and juice of a large +lemon, salt, and a little cayenne; thicken with a little flour if +desired; simmer gently until very hot and serve. + +=Venison Epicurean.=—Cut a steak from the leg or a chop from the loin of +venison, about an inch and a half thick. Put a walnut of butter, salt +and pepper, into a chafing-dish; light the spirit-lamp under it, and +when the butter melts put in the chop or steak; let it cook on one side +a few minutes, then turn it over, and add a wineglassful of sherry or +port and a tablespoonful of currant-jelly. Simmer gently about seven +minutes if it is to be eaten rare, and allow twelve minutes cooking if +required well done. + +Hot plates and a glass of Mr. Clair’s old East India Madeira are all +that is requisite to make the feast Apician in character. + +=Venison Chops=, broiled and served with currant-jelly, are not to be +despised. Trim the ends as you would a French lamb-chop. + +=Breast of Venison= may be dressed according to the receipt given for +breast of mutton. + +=Venison Patties.=—Make a nicely-flavored mince of the remains of cold +roast venison; moisten it with a little sherry or gravy, and warm it in +a saucepan; fill the patty-shells with the meat and serve. (See oyster +patty for patty-shells.) + +=Broiled Tripe.=—Cut up honeycomb tripe into pieces of three to four +inches wide; rub a little oil or melted butter over them, dredge them in +flour, and broil over a charcoal fire; squeeze a little lemon-juice over +each piece, and serve. + +Never broil tripe over a hard-coal fire; the gases arising from the coal +spoil the flavor of the tripe, making it indigestible and unpalatable. + +=Tripe Lyonnaise.=—Take a pound of cold boiled tripe and cut it into +pieces an inch square. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, +add a sliced onion to it, and fry until it is tender. Put the pieces of +tripe with the onion, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a +tablespoonful of vinegar, salt, and a little cayenne; heat all gently +together. Cover the bottom of a platter with tomato sauce, add the tripe +and serve. + +=Tripe Fricassee.=—Cut up the tripe into square pieces; put them into a +stew-pan with a blade of mace, a bouquet of herbs, an onion quartered, +salt, and cayenne. Cover the tripe with Rhine wine or water and a little +vinegar; stew for one hour. Strain the sauce; put the tripe and sauce in +a clean saucepan, with a walnut of butter rolled in flour, a gill of +cream, a tablespoonful chopped parsley. Simmer ten minutes, squeeze in +the juice of a lemon, and serve. + +=Pork and Beans.=—Wash a quart of beans thoroughly; cover them with cold +water and let them soak over-night. Change the water in the morning once +or twice. Then put them in a pot and simmer slowly for three hours until +they begin to crack open; pour them into a colander to drain off all the +water. Heat an earthen bean-pot with hot water, and wipe it dry; place a +small piece of pork on the bottom of the pot and pour in the beans. Cut +the rind of another piece of pork into strips, and sink it into the +beans, leaving only the rind of the pork exposed at the top. Dissolve a +tablespoonful of New Orleans molasses, with a teaspoonful of salt, in a +pint of warm water, and add it to the pot; set it in the oven and bake +slowly for three or four hours, or place the pot in a baker’s oven +over-night, instructing the baker to add a little water to the pot +should the beans become dry. + +Serve with Boston brown bread. + +=Baked Macaroni.=—For a small dish one-half pound macaroni, boiled until +soft, with a little salt in the water. Drain through a colander; then +put in the baking-dish, with one pint and a half of milk, a lump of +butter, pepper and salt, and grated cheese (enough to suit taste), and +distribute over top. Bake in a hot oven until brown. + + M. G. H. + +=Rice Croquettes.=—Put a quarter of a pound of Carolina “head” rice, one +pint of milk, three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, a walnut of +butter, and a teaspoonful of _best_ extract of vanilla into a saucepan; +simmer gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be +boiled until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould it into +croquettes. Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes; turn it out on +a flat tin, and when cold and stiff form it into balls or cones; dip +these in beaten egg, roll lightly in crumbs, and fry in hot fat or +butter. + + + + + _VEGETABLE ENTREES._ + + +=Stuffed Tomatoes.=—Take six ripe tomatoes of equal size; cut off the +tops and scoop out the insides; press the pulp through a sieve and mix +with it a little salt and cayenne, two ounces of butter broken into +little pieces, and two heaping tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; fill the +tomatoes with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Before serving +them brown the stuffing by holding a salamander or a small shovel +containing hot coals over them. + +Any good force-meat may be used to stuff tomatoes; the remains of game +or poultry minced, and mixed with herbs and bread-crumbs, seasoned and +bound together with yolk of egg, will suit the most fastidious. + +=Stuffed Egg-Plant.=—Cut the egg-plant in two; scrape out all the inside +and put it in a saucepan with a little minced ham; cover with water and +boil until soft; drain off the water; add two tablespoonfuls grated +crumbs, tablespoonful butter, half a minced onion, salt, and pepper; +stuff each half of the hull with the mixture; add a small lump of butter +to each and bake fifteen minutes. + +=Stuffed Egg-Plant, No. 2.=—Pare off the purple rind of the egg-plant +and quarter it; round off the edges as neatly as possible, then place +them in salt and water for an hour. Take them out of the water, scrape +out the centre, and mix it with a force-meat of veal, bread-crumbs, +seasoning, and yolk of egg; put the mixture in the hollow egg-plant, +with a lump of butter upon the top of each, and bake a light brown. + +=Stuffed Potatoes.=—Take a number of firm-skin potatoes of equal size; +clean them well and bake them. When done cut off a piece of the end of +each potato and scoop out as much of the inside as can be obtained +without injury to the skin; mash it with cream and butter; add a little +salt; set the dish on the range to keep hot. Take the whites of three +eggs, whip them to a froth, and add to the potatoes; mix all together; +simmer until quite hot; fill up the skins with the potato paste; fasten +the covers with white of egg, and bake fifteen minutes. + +=Potato Balls.=—Boil a small potful of potatoes; wash them well, and mix +with them butter, salt, chopped parsley or chives, grated nutmeg, and +two raw eggs; work the paste into small balls, dip in beaten egg, roll +in cracker-dust or flour, and fry. + +=Potato Cake.=—Take half a pound of dry mealy potatoes, either baked or +boiled; mash them until they are free from lumps; mix with them three +ounces of flour, salt and pepper, and as much lukewarm milk and butter +as will make a smooth, firm dough; add one egg and half a teaspoonful of +Royal Baking Powder. Roll the paste out with a rolling-pin till it is +nearly two inches thick; dredge a little flour over it, and cut it out +the exact size of the frying-pan. Rub the pan over with butter; lay the +cake carefully into it; cover with a plate; shake it every now and then +to prevent it burning; when it is half done on one side turn it over +carefully on the other. Serve on a hot dish with plenty of good fresh +butter. + +Cold potatoes, if dry and mealy, may be warmed up in this manner. + +Sweet potatoes make very good potato cake. + +=Potato Fritters.=—Burst open four nicely-baked potatoes; scoop out the +insides with a spoon, and mix with them a wineglassful of cream, a +tablespoonful of brandy, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the juice +of one lemon, half a teaspoonful of Thurber’s best extract vanilla, and +the well-beaten yolks of four and the whites of three eggs; beat the +batter for several minutes until it is quite smooth, and drop large +tablespoonfuls of the mixture into boiling fat, and fry a light brown; +dust powdered sugar over them, and send to table. + +=Parsnip Fritters.=—Boil four good-sized parsnips in salted water until +tender; drain them, beat them to a pulp, and squeeze the water from them +as much as possible; bind them together with a beaten egg and a little +flour. Shape them into cakes, and fry in hot fat. + +=Oyster-Plant Croquettes.=—Wash, scrape, and boil the oyster-plant till +tender; rub it through a colander, and mix with the pulp a little +butter, cream, salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice; mix the ingredients +thoroughly together to a smooth paste, and set the dish in the ice-box +to get cold; then shape it into small cones, dip them in beaten egg and +roll in crumbs, and fry crisp and brown. + +=Fritters.=—The following receipt will serve for many kinds of fruit or +vegetable fritters: Make a batter of ten ounces of flour, half a pint of +milk, and two ounces of butter; sweeten and flavor to taste; add a glass +of brandy, rum, or sherry; stir in the whites of two eggs well beaten; +dip the fruit in the batter, and fry. Small fruit and vegetables should +be mixed with the batter. + +=Arrowroot for Batters and Sauces.=—Arrowroot may be used to thicken +batters, sauces, etc., for those who object to butter, as invalids very +often do. Mix a tablespoonful of Beatty’s Bermuda Arrowroot smoothly +with a little cold water, and stir it into a pint of the batter or +sauce. + +=Omelettes.=—Numerous kinds of omelettes may be served as the last +entrée, and, if properly made, they generally give satisfaction. As a +rule an omelette is a wholesome, inexpensive dish, but yet one in the +preparation of which cooks frequently fail owing to ignorance of detail. +The flavoring and the ingredients used may be varied indefinitely, but +the process is always the same. In making an omelette care should be +taken that the frying-pan is hot and dry. The best way to ensure this is +to put a small quantity of fat into the pan, let it simmer a few +minutes, then pour it out; wipe the pan dry with a towel and put in a +little fresh fat, in which the omelette should be fried; care should be +taken that the fat does not burn, thereby spoiling the color of the +omelette. + +It is better to make two or three small omelettes than one large one. +The eggs should be but slightly beaten, just long enough to mix them, +and no more; a tablespoonful of cream to every two eggs will be found an +improvement. Salt _mixed_ with the eggs prevents them from rising and +gives the omelette a flabby appearance; without salt your omelette will +taste insipid; sprinkle a little salt on the omelette just before +turning out on the dish. + +=Oyster Omelette.=—Stew six oysters in their own liquor; remove the +oysters and thicken the liquid with butter rolled in flour; season with +salt, cayenne, and mix with it a teaspoonful chopped parsley. Chop up +the oysters and add them to the sauce; simmer gently until the sauce +thickens. Beat three eggs lightly with a tablespoonful and a half of +cream, and fry until they are delicately set; before folding over put a +few spoonfuls of the mixture in the centre; turn it out carefully on a +hot dish, with the balance of the sauce round it, and serve immediately. + +If small oysters are used put them in the centre of the omelette, whole, +fold and serve with sauce round it. + +=Rum Omelette.=—Fry an omelette in the usual way; fold it with a little +salt, and turn it out on a hot dish; dust sugar over it, and singe the +sugar into stripes with a hot iron rod; pour a wineglassful of warm rum +round the omelette, set a light to it, and send to table flaming. + +=Omelette Souffle.=—Break six eggs into separate cups; beat four of the +yolks, and mix with them a teaspoonful of flour, three tablespoonfuls of +powdered sugar, very little salt, and any flavoring extract that may be +preferred. Whisk the white of the six eggs to a firm froth; mix them +lightly with the yolks; pour the mixture into a greased pan or dish, and +bake in a quick oven. When it is well risen and lightly browned on the +top it is done; take it out of the oven, dust a little powdered sugar +over it carefully, and send to table immediately. It must be served in +the same dish in which it is baked. + +=Welsh Rarebit.=—Select the richest and best American factory cheese—the +milder it is the better, as the melting brings out the strength. To make +five rarebits take one pound of cheese, grate it, and put it in a tin or +porcelain-lined saucepan; add ale enough to thin the cheese +sufficiently, say about a wineglassful to each rarebit; stir until all +is melted. Have a slice of toast ready for each rarebit (crusts +trimmed); put a slice on each plate, and pour cheese enough over each +piece to cover it. Eat while hot. + +=To make a “Golden Buck.”=—A “Golden Buck” is merely the addition of a +poached egg, which is put carefully on the top of the rarebit. + +“=Yorkshire Rarebit.=”—This is the same as a “Golden Buck,” only it has +two thin slices of broiled bacon on the top.—_George Browne, in +Thurber’s Epicure._ + + [See Vegetables, page 90.] + + + + + _ROASTING._ + + +Roasting is an excellent method of rendering food wholesome and +nourishing. Without making any great change in the chemical properties +of meat it renders it more tender and highly flavored, while there is +not so much waste of its nutritive juices as in baking. But where can +the average American get a slice of _roast_ beef? Our homes are not +provided with spits, bottle-jacks, Dutch ovens, and the like; and as a +very sensible writer in the New York _Times_ stated, “ninety-nine +_roasts_ in the United States are baked in ovens, and there is no help +for it.” I can see no possible way out of the dilemma but to submit +gracefully to baked meats for ever. The leading hotels and restaurants +overcome the difficulty by purchasing the very best of beef, and keeping +it from eight to fifteen days in their ice-houses. Thus the excellent +quality of the beef overcomes, in a measure, the bad effects created by +the superheated volatile portions that escape from the beef during the +process of baking. + +No finer, better, or sweeter piece of meat was ever tasted, either in +England or America, than the Astor House roast beef; and the secret is +in securing the best quality, and taking proper care of it before +submitting it to the oven. + +=Roast Beef.=—The best roasting-pieces are the fore and middle ribs and +the sirloin. The chuck-ribs, although cheaper, are not as profitable to +families, there being too much waste in the carving of them. The ends of +the ribs should be removed from the flank, and the latter folded under +the beef and securely fastened with skewers. Rub a little salt into the +fat part; place the meat in the dripping-pan with a pint of stock or +water; baste freely, and dredge with flour half an hour before taking +the joint from the oven. + +Should the oven be very hot place a buttered paper over the meat to +prevent it scorching while yet raw, in which case it will need very +little basting; or turn the rib side up towards the fire for the first +twenty minutes. The time it will take in cooking depends entirely upon +the thickness of the joint and the length of time it has been killed. +Skim the fat from the gravy and add a tablespoonful of prepared brown +flour and a glass of sherry to the remainder. + +=Roast Loin of Veal.=—Make an incision in the flank or skirt of the loin +of veal, and into the cavity thus made, just over the end of the bone, +put a well-flavored veal force-meat. Roll in the flank to cover the +kidney-fat, and bind it firmly with string or tape. Place a few small +veal bones with a few assorted vegetables, cut up, in a dripping-pan; +put the loin upon this bed, add half a pint of stock or water, and set +it in the oven for twenty minutes; in the meantime work together a +tablespoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter; draw +the joint from the oven, baste it with the flour and butter, return it +to the oven again, and baste occasionally until done. + +Veal should be thoroughly done. When it is underdone it is decidedly +indigestible and should be avoided. + +The breast of veal boned, with a layer of force-meat spread over the +inside and rolled and tightly bound, may be substituted for loin of +veal. + +=Mutton.=—The choicest mutton in the United States comes from the +mountainous regions of Pennsylvania. The animals are semi-domestic and +almost as shy and as timid as a deer. In 1878 Col. Duffy, one of +Pennsylvania’s fish commissioners, dined a party of English gentlemen on +mountain-mutton, and they pronounced it the finest-flavored morsel of +_venison_ they had ever eaten. + +=Roast Leg of Mutton.=—Take a leg of well-kept mutton, rub it lightly +with salt, and put it in a dripping-pan with a very little water; cut a +potato in two lengthwise, and set it under the leg; baste with a little +good dripping at first, and when within twenty minutes of being done, +dredge it with flour to get it frothed. Turn the joint two or three +times while cooking. Time, about a quarter of an hour to the pound. + +=Loin of Mutton.=—Follow the directions given for roast leg of mutton, +but trim off all unnecessary fat, cover the joint with paper until +within twenty minutes of its being done, then remove, baste, and flour +slightly; serve with currant-jelly. If properly cooked and served _hot_ +it is a royal dish, but if the fat is not turned to account, a very +expensive one. + +=Lamb.=—Put a four or five pound joint of lamb in a dripping-pan with a +gill of stock or water; salt and pepper; roll two ounces of butter in a +very little flour, divide it into small pieces, and add it here and +there upon the meat; set the pan in a moderate oven, and baste +frequently until done. + +Skim the fat from the gravy, and serve with the lamb; or serve mint +sauce with the joint. + +=Mint Sauce.=—Wash the sprigs of mint, let them dry on a towel, strip +off the leaves, and chop them very fine; put in a sauce-boat with a +cupful of vinegar and four lumps of sugar; let it stand an hour, and +before serving stir all together. Mint sauce, if bottled, will keep for +some time, and be just as good, if not better, than it was the first +day. + +=Saddle of Lamb.=—A saddle of lamb is a dainty joint for a small party. +Sprinkle a little salt over it, and set it in the dripping-pan, with a +few small pieces of butter on the meat; baste it occasionally with +tried-out lamb-fat; dredge a little flour over it a few minutes before +taking from the oven. Serve with the very best of currant-jelly, and +send to table with it a few choice early vegetables. Mint sauce may be +served with the joint, but in a very mild form. + +=Pork.=—Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the +greatest care. The pig, from its gluttonous habits, is particularly +liable to disease; and if killed and eaten when in an unhealthy +condition, those who partake of it will probably pay dearly for their +indulgence. Dairy-fed pork is the best; and knowing this fact, a number +of our first-class hotels raise their own pork on farms connected with +their country residences. Among them may be mentioned the Continental +Hotel, Philadelphia; the Astor, Union Square, Sturtevant, Hoffman, Fifth +Avenue, Windsor, and several other leading hotels in New York City. We +are indebted to Chas. Lamb for the history of roast pig. In his essays +he says: “The art of roasting, or rather broiling (which I take to be +the elder brother), was accidentally discovered in the manner following: +The swineherd Ho-ti, having gone out into the woods one morning, as his +manner was, to collect mast for his hogs, left his cottage in the care +of his eldest son, Bo-bo, a great, lubberly boy, who, being fond of +playing with fire, let some sparks escape into a bundle of straw, which, +kindling quickly, spread the conflagration over every part of their poor +mansion till it was reduced to ashes. Together with the cottage, what +was of much more importance, a fine litter of new farrowed pigs, no less +than nine in number, perished. Bo-bo was in the utmost consternation, as +you may think, not so much for the sake of the tenement—which his father +and he could easily build up again with a few dry branches, and the +labor of an hour or two, at any time—as for the loss of the pigs. While +he was thinking what he should say to his father, and wringing his +hands, an odor assailed his nostrils unlike any scent which he had +before experienced. What could it proceed from? Not from the burnt +cottage; he had smelt that before. Indeed, this was by no means the +first accident which had occurred through the negligence of this unlucky +firebrand. A premonitory moistening at the same time overflowed his +nether lip. He knew not what to think. He next stooped down to feel the +pig, if there were any signs of life in it. He burnt his fingers, and to +cool them he applied them in his booby fashion to his mouth. Some of the +crumbs of the scorched skin had come away with his fingers, and for the +first time in his life (in the world’s, indeed, for before him no man +had known it) he tasted—_crackling_! Again he felt and fumbled at the +pig. It did not burn him so much now; still, he licked his fingers from +a sort of habit. The truth at length broke into his slow understanding +that it was the pig that smelt so and the pig that tasted so delicious; +and surrendering himself up to the new-born pleasure, he fell to tearing +up whole handfuls of the scorched skin, with the flesh next it, and was +cramming it down his throat in his beastly fashion when his sire entered +amid the smoking rafters, and, finding how affairs stood, began to rain +blows upon the young rogue’s shoulders as thick as hailstones, which +Bo-bo heeded not any more than if they had been flies. The tickling +pleasure which he experienced in his lower regions had rendered him +quite callous to any inconveniences he might feel in those remote +quarters. Bo-bo’s scent, being wonderfully sharpened since morning, soon +raked out another pig, and, fairly rending it asunder, thrust the lesser +half by main force into the fists of Ho-ti, still shouting out, ‘Eat, +eat! Eat the burnt pig, father! Only taste!’ It is needless to state +that both father and son despatched the remainder of the litter. Bo-bo +was strictly enjoined not to let the secret escape. Nevertheless strange +stories got about; it was observed that Ho-ti’s cottage was burnt down +now more frequently than ever. As often as the sow farrowed, so soon was +the house of Ho-ti seen to be in a blaze. At length they were watched, +the terrible mystery discovered, and father and son summoned to take +their trial at Peking, then an inconsiderable assize town. Evidence was +given, the obnoxious food itself produced in court, and verdict about to +be pronounced, when the foreman of the jury begged that some of the +burnt pig of which the culprit stood accused might be handed into the +box. He handled it, and they all handled it; and burning their fingers +as Bo-bo and his father had done before them, and nature prompting to +each of them the same remedy, against the face of all the facts and the +clearest charge which judge had ever given, to the surprise of the whole +court, townsfolk, strangers, reporters (they had Howards and Raymonds in +those days), and all present, without leaving the box, or any manner of +consultation whatever, they brought in a simultaneous verdict of not +guilty.” + +=Dr. Kitchiner on Pork.=—“Take particular care it be done enough. Other +meats underdone are unpleasant, but pork is absolutely uneatable; the +sight of it is enough to appall the sharpest appetite, if its gravy has +the least tint of redness. Be careful of the crackling; if this be not +crisp, or if it be burned, you will be scolded.” + +=The Turkey.=—The turkey, says Brillat-Savarin, “is the largest, and, if +not the most delicate, at least the most savory of domestic poultry. It +enjoys the singular advantage of assembling around it every class of +society. When our farmers and wine-growers regale themselves on a +winter’s evening, what do we see roasting before the kitchen fire, close +to which the white-clothed table is set? A turkey! When the useful +tradesman or the hard-worked artist invites a few friends to an +occasional treat, what dish is he expected to set before them? A nice +roast turkey stuffed with sausage-meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our +highest gastronomical society, when politics are obliged to give way to +dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, what is awaited, +what is looked out for at the second course? A truffled turkey. In my +‘Secret Memoirs’ I find sundry notes recording that on many occasions +its restorative juice has illumined diplomatic faces of the highest +eminence.” + +Now, the average American could not be induced to eat a turkey stuffed +with sausage-meat; he would naturally say that if the useful tradesman +“or the hard-working artist” experienced any pleasure over such a +compound, he was welcome to it; to him sausage-meat was too suggestive +of pork and—mystery. But the Lyons chestnuts—ah! yes, that will do, for +he has tasted chestnut stuffing and has learned to like it. A +dissertation on truffles, while waiting for the “truffled turkey” to be +served, is all that is necessary to make him say he is passionately fond +of them in any form, otherwise he would be apt to ask the waiter to +remove the dressing from his plate, “as it was full of small pieces of +charcoal” (an actual occurrence). + +=Roast Turkey.=—Singe the bird, and in drawing it preserve the heart, +gizzard, and liver; remove the gall-bag from the liver, and be very +careful not to break it, as if any of the liquid touches the bird no +amount of washing will remove the bitter taste. Cut off the neck close +to the body, and before doing so push back the skin of the neck so that +sufficient may be left on to turn over the back; remove a part of the +fat adhering to the skin; split the breast-bone from the inside, or +place several folds of cloth on the high breast-bone and break and +flatten it a little with a rolling-pin to make the bird look plump. Fill +the breast and body with stuffing; sew up the opening with coarse +thread; turn the neck-skin over the back and fasten it; truss the legs +close to the breast, the wings turn over the back, using skewers or +twine to hold them in proper position. Put the turkey in the +dripping-pan with a little hot water, dredge it with flour, and lay a +few small pieces of butter upon it, and the feet, scalded and scraped, +under it. Baste frequently. Time, from two to three hours, according to +the size of the bird. + +Should he prove to be of doubtful age and rich in spurs and scaly feet, +parboil him. Put him in a saucepan or pot, cover with cold water, add a +teaspoonful of salt, and when the water comes to a boil take out the +bird and dry it well before stuffing it. + +=Chestnut Stuffing.=—Roast a pint of chestnuts and peel off the outer +and inner skin; weigh them, and simmer half a pound of them for twenty +minutes in as much veal gravy as will cover them; drain and let them +cool; then pound them in a mortar with four ounces of butter, three +ounces of bread-crumbs, a trifle of grated lemon-peel and powdered mace, +salt, and a pinch of cayenne; bind the mixture with the yolks of three +eggs. + +Chestnuts roasted or boiled may be added to almost any stuffing for +fowl, etc., and give general satisfaction. I once made a stuffing of +chestnuts, apple-sauce, bread-crumbs, and the proper seasoning for a +’possum, and all who tasted of it pronounced it a dainty dish. One of +the party, Dr. H——, never tires of talking about “that ’possum with the +chestnuts.” + +=Oyster Stuffing.=—Remove the heart (or what some call the eye) from two +dozen oysters, mince them finely, pound them to a paste, and mix with +them five ounces of bread-crumbs, an ounce of butter, the grated rind of +half a lemon, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of cayenne, an +even teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. When well +mixed bind the mixture with the yolk of an egg and a small quantity of +the oyster liquid added gradually. + +=Bread Stuffing.=—Grate sufficient bread to fill the bird; moisten it +with milk, and season with salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, and the grated +rind of one lemon. Add a tablespoonful of butter, and bind the mixture +with yolk of egg. Add a few raw whole oysters, if desired. + +=Roast Capon.=—They should be managed in the same way as turkeys, and +served with the same sauces. I cannot quite come to the conclusion that +a roast capon is equal in flavor to one boiled and served with egg +sauce. + +=Roast Chicken.=—Singe your chickens and truss them carefully. Broilers, +as they are called, are better without stuffing, unless they are very +large. Season with salt, put small bits of butter over the meat, and +place them in the pan with a little water or veal stock; baste +occasionally and dredge with flour before taking from the oven. A few +tarragon leaves with the sauce are acceptable. + +A spring chicken cooked in any style is not to be despised by any means, +but I quite agree with that appreciative epicure, Mr. Sam Ward, when he +said: + + “To roast spring chickens is to spoil ’em; + Just split ’em down the back and broil ’em.” + +=Roast Pigeon.=—Raise the skin from the breast-bones of the pigeons with +your finger; make a small quantity of finely-flavored stuffing, and +stuff it between the skin and flesh, using care not to break the skin. +Fasten a long, thin slice of bacon over the breasts of the birds with +toothpicks; put them in a dripping-pan with a little water, and dredge +with flour. When done remove the bacon, set them neatly around the edge +of a dish, fill the centre with new green peas or Godillot French peas, +and serve. (A favorite dish of the members of the Club of Lindenthorpe, +on the Delaware.) + +=Roast Domestic Duck.=—Americans, as a rule, do not take kindly to +domestic duck, owing to its peculiar flavor and richness, and also to +the fact of the bird being usually accompanied with a very +highly-seasoned onion stuffing. Nevertheless, a young domestic duck +stuffed with a bread stuffing seasoned with salt, pepper, sage, and a +_suspicion_ of onion, is a dish that should often appear upon the tables +of our American families. A pair of ducklings with no other stuffing +than an onion placed inside the birds while roasting, and removed before +serving, will make a splendid dinner for a family of five or six. Serve +with apple-fritters or apple-sauce. + +=Roast Goose.=—Singe, draw, and truss the goose, and, if an old one, +parboil it. The best stuffing for a goose is a sage-and-onion stuffing. +The way in which this is made must depend upon the taste of those who +have to eat it. If a strong flavor of onions is liked the onion should +be chopped raw. If this is not the case they should be boiled in one or +two waters, and mixed with bread-crumbs, powdered sage, salt and pepper, +nutmeg, and two small apples chopped fine; fill the bird with the +stuffing, sew it up with coarse thread, sprinkle salt over it, and set +it in a pan with a little warm water; baste frequently, and do not take +it from the oven until thoroughly cooked. + +=Ham a la Russe.=—If the ham be hard and salty soak it for several +hours. If a fresh-cured Ferris ham it will not need soaking. Trim and +cut away all the rusty parts, and cover it with a coarse paste of flour +and water half an inch thick, and fasten it securely to prevent the +juice escaping. Time, from three to four hours, according to size of the +ham. Remove the paste and skin while the ham is hot, cover the fat with +a sugar paste (see boiled ham) moistened with port, and return it to the +oven a few minutes to brown. + +The Continental Hotel, Philadelphia, makes a specialty of _Ham à la +Russe_, and it is a splendid dish served with champagne sauce. + +=Canvas-Back Duck.=—Pluck, draw, and singe the duck; wipe out the blood +from the inside with a clean towel; cut off the head and neck, and put +them in the body of the duck, allowing the head to protrude. Sprinkle a +little celery-salt over the breast, with a bit of butter; put it on a +small buttered pan, and set it in the oven for seventeen minutes. Serve +with currant-jelly. + +A few outer stalks of celery placed inside the duck will improve its +flavor. + +A red-head duck stuffed with grated bread, chopped celery, seasoning, +and mixed with yolk of egg, will taste very much like a canvas-back. + +A blue-winged teal duck is very nice broiled. Cut it down the back, +brush a little melted butter over it, and broil, keeping the inner part +of the duck to the fire most of the time. To roast a teal place a strip +of bacon over the breast and set it in the oven for fifteen minutes. + +=Roast Venison.=—Take a leg of well-kept venison, wipe it thoroughly, +rub a little salt over it, and dredge with flour. Place it in a +dripping-pan with the ragged pieces you have trimmed off of it, and a +little water or wine. Put small bits of butter here and there over the +meat, set it in the oven, and baste frequently till done. If the leg is +not very fat it is a good plan to lard it with strips of bacon or pork. +Serve with currant-jelly, and don’t forget the hot plates. + +I am not a lover of venison à l’Anglaise, for I do not fancy the flour +paste daubed over the meat as most English cooks prepare it, though the +buttered paper is an advantage when cooking large joints of game. + +=Roast Prairie Chicken.=—The bird being a little strong, and its flesh +when cooked a little dry, it should be either larded or wide strips of +bacon or pork placed over its breast. A mild seasoned stuffing will +improve the flavor of old birds. Dust a little flour over them, baste +occasionally, and serve. + +Pheasants may be managed in the same manner. + +=Roast Quail.=—Pluck and draw the birds, rub a little butter over them, +tie a strip of bacon over the breasts, and set them in the oven for +twenty to twenty-five minutes. + +=Roast Woodcock.=—Pluck the bird carefully, do not cut off the head or +draw the trail; punch a few holes in the back of the bird with a fork, +and lay it in the pan on a piece of buttered toast. A little salt is all +the seasoning required. Time, twenty minutes. A woodcock is the only +gamebird I send to table without currant-jelly; its own fine flavor +needs no bush. + +=Roast Snipe.=—Pluck and draw the snipe, preserving the trail and head; +tie a thin strip of bacon over the breast; chop up the trail and spread +it on buttered toast (one slice for each bird); lay the birds in the pan +with the toast between them, and roast twenty minutes. Remove the bacon, +place the birds on the toast, and serve. + +=Rail-Birds.=—Rail-birds are decidedly inferior to either snipe or +woodcock. They should be skinned, as much of their rankness lies in the +skin. The trail is a trifle too strong for the average American palate. +They make a very good pie; manage them as you would snipe for roasting, +broiling, etc. + +=Reed-Birds.=—These delicious “lumps of sweetness,” as they are +appropriately called, are always acceptable, but to thoroughly +appreciate a reed-bird dinner one must mingle with the gunners on the +Delaware River as guest or member of one of the many clubs whose houses +are situated within a few hundred yards from the hunting-grounds. + +After the judge’s decision as to who has _high boat_, the birds are +plucked (and, at some of the club-houses, drawn), arranged neatly in a +dripping-pan with bits of fresh country butter between them. They are +allowed to cook on one side a few minutes, and with a long-handled spoon +are turned over to brown the other side. A little salt is added, and +they are then placed upon a hot platter _en pyramide_ and the gravy +poured over them; they are then sent to table with fried chip potatoes. +The scene that follows baffles description. Not a voice is heard, “at +least as long as the birds last.” The painful silence is only broken by +the sounds of crumbling bones between the teeth of the assemblage, and +an occasional _More birds, Mr. Caterer!_ from that prince of gourmets, +Mayor S——. + +=Reed-Birds a la Lindenthorpe.=—On “Ladies’ Day” the members of this +club are more particular than on “members’ day.” They prepare the birds +by drawing the trail and removing the heads; they then take large sweet +or Irish potatoes, cut them in two, scoop out the insides, and put an +oyster or a small piece of bacon inside of each bird, and put the birds +inside the potato, tie them up with twine, and bake until the potatoes +are done. The common twine is then removed and the potatoes are tied +with a narrow piece of white or colored tape, in a neat bow-knot, and +sent to table on a napkin. + + + + + _SALADS._ + + +There is not a dish in the gastronomic vocabulary that varies in +composition more than a salad. And the reasons for it are many. Among +them may be mentioned climatic influences and the personal habits of +individuals. The individual who lives well, and who considers a meal +imperfect without a wine or malt beverage, will sooner or later learn to +use condiments to such an extent as to alarm the more temperate at +table. A salad prepared for the majority, he will tell you, cloys on his +palate; and, after the first mouthful he resorts to cayenne and vinegar +to “tone up” the salad to suit his taste. After this ungenerous act the +close observer will notice confusion upon the face of the +salad-composer, who felt confident that he had prepared a salad to suit +the taste of the most fastidious. But my friend the salad-mixer should +not get offended; he should keep in view one fact—that a palate abused +by the constant use of tobacco and other stimulants requires more sharp +and pungent seasoning than one accustomed to these things only in +moderation, and that a strictly temperate person requires less of +condiments than either of them. + +The dyspeptic’s case is entirely different. He will complain of a salad +in any form, accusing the oil of causing all his trouble. But he is +wrong. Let him stop flooding his food with liquids that only dilute and +weaken the gastric juices of the stomach and he will soon be rid of +dyspepsia and learn to love salads as much as other people. The habit of +washing down each mouthful of food with liquids is a deplorable one, and +the person that does it invites dyspepsia by so doing. Persons who are +in the habit of eating salads late at night, and who complain of +indigestion next morning, will find it to their advantage to add half a +teaspoonful of chicken pepsin to each pint of Mayonnaise; by so doing +digestion is assisted, and everyone will feel very much better next day. + +In catering for families I invariably add pepsin to the dressing, but +until now have kept it a secret, not liking the idea of being accused of +mixing medicine with the food. Nevertheless I have been amply rewarded +by receiving more orders than I could personally attend to. + +The following letter will explain itself: + + SHARPLESS & SONS, 801 to 807 Chestnut St., + PHILADELPHIA, March 7, 1879. + + _Mr. Murrey, Continental Hotel_: + + DEAR SIR: Please send two quarts of chicken salad manipulated by + _yourself_; the last we had prepared by you left a pleasant + recollection. Send up promptly at five o’clock, and oblige, + + C. H. HAMRICK. + +=Lettuce Salad.=—Take a good-sized head of lettuce and pull the leaves +apart. Wash them a moment in a little water, then shake off the water +and dry the leaves in a napkin by taking hold of the four corners and +shaking it. Examine them carefully, wipe off all grit, and reject all +bruised leaves; place them in a salad-bowl large enough to dress them in +nicely without scattering a part of them over the table. Mix one +salt-spoonful of salt, one salt-spoonful of fresh ground pepper, and a +dust of cayenne with a tablespoonful of oil in a salad spoon; pour this +over the lettuce, and add two more tablespoonfuls of oil; next toss the +salad lightly with a salad spoon and fork, and, lastly, add a +tablespoonful of vinegar; toss it gently once or twice and send to +table. _To be eaten at once._ Never cut lettuce. Should you wish to +divide the leaves tear them apart gently. But it is not always necessary +to tear the leaves, should they appear too large to eat gracefully. With +the assistance of your knife you can wrap the leaf round the end of your +fork so as to make a small ball of it, and eat it with a little more +elegance than your neighbor, who is trying his level best to get the +leaf into his mouth edgeways. + +=Plain French Dressing.=—A plain French dressing is made of salt, +pepper, oil, and vinegar, and nothing else. Three tablespoonfuls of oil +to one of vinegar, salt-spoon heaping full of salt, an even +salt-spoonful of pepper mixed with a little cayenne. + +=Plain English Dressing.=—Same as plain French dressing, with a +teaspoonful of made English mustard added. + +=Bacon Dressing.=—Cut half a pound of bacon fat into slices, then into +very small pieces, and fry them until the oil extracted is a light +brown; remove the pan from the fire and add the juice of a lemon, one +wineglassful of strong vinegar, a salt-spoonful of pepper, and pour it +over the salad with the pieces of bacon. A very nice dressing when you +cannot get oil, etc. + +=Summer Mayonnaise.=—Chop up the yolk and white of a hard-boiled egg +very fine, and sprinkle it over a salad. Mix a plain French dressing in +a cold soup-plate, and pour over the egg and salad, and mix all +together. + +=Sauce Vinaigrette.=—Mix a plain French dressing, and add to it a +quarter of an onion chopped fine, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley or +pickle. + +Don’t like the onion? Then add a few Godillot capers. + +=Mayonnaise Sauce.=—Work the yolks of two raw eggs to a smooth paste, +and add two salt-spoonfuls of Royal Table Salt, half a salt-spoonful of +cayenne, a salt-spoonful of dry mustard, and a teaspoonful of oil; mix +these ingredients thoroughly and add the strained juice of half a lemon. +Take the remainder of half a pint of Virgin olive-oil and add it +gradually, a teaspoonful at a time, and every fifth teaspoonful add a +few drops of lemon-juice until you have used two lemons and the +half-pint of oil. + +There are almost as many ways of making a Mayonnaise sauce as there are +of cooking eggs. + +=Mayonnaise Sauce, No. 2.=—Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs with +the yolk of one raw egg to a smooth paste; add a heaping teaspoonful of +salt, two salt-spoonfuls of white pepper, and two salt-spoonfuls of made +mustard; mix thoroughly and work a gill of oil gradually into the +mixture, alternated with a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar until you +have used three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Should the sauce appear too +thick add a wineglassful of cream gradually. + +=Lobster Salad.=—Tear the meat of the lobster into shreds with two +forks; remove the eggs (_if a hen lobster_) from the fins; scrape out +all the green fat from the shell and set it aside. Prepare for making a +Mayonnaise by working a tablespoonful of the fat into a smooth paste; +let this green fat, with the yolk of one raw egg and one hard-boiled +egg, be the basis of your Mayonnaise; in all other particulars follow +instruction for Mayonnaise sauce. When complete mix the lobster meat +with three tablespoonfuls of the sauce. Cover the bottom of a dish or +compot with lettuce (the large leaves tear in two), put a layer of +lobster upon it; next add a layer of celery cut into narrow-inch strips, +and another layer of lobster; arrange it neatly on the dish; sprinkle +the eggs or the chopped coral on the lettuce round the edges; pour the +sauce over the meat, garnish with lobster-legs, and serve. + +Somebody sent to the Washington _Republic’s_ correspondent, “G. H. B.,” +while he was laid up in Providence hospital with the gout, a very fine +lobster, and this is what he did with it: “Now, I’ll tell you about that +lobster. I had him laid away tenderly in the ice-chest, and directed him +to appear at dinner with some leaves of lettuce and a raw egg. The yolk +of that egg I mingled, with slow, deliberate revolutions of a fork, with +mustard, red pepper, salt, and oil. When the paste was thick enough to +take up on the end of the fork like dough I thinned it—‘cut it’ is +technical—with vinegar, and there was my dressing. I planted a table +facing the snow-storm, at which I mocked and jeered in a temperature of +seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Then did I disrobe the ‘Cardinal of the +Seas’ (you remember the Frenchman who applied that to lobsters, thinking +they came from the ocean red?) of his vestments, and by the aid of a +long pickle-spoon placed all that was in him on the plate. His legs I +chewed up. Then I ate him, and watched the many industrious, +hard-working fathers of families trudging by in the snow, who had no +lobster, and couldn’t have dressed him if they had. Then I finished up +on some sponge-cake and custard, ate two apples with a sprinkle of salt, +lit my pipe, and in its smoke framed beautiful porcelain figures +engraven with Chinese characters and Hindoo idols. That’s what I did +with that lobster. He was a prime one and very much interested the +Sisters.” + +=Chicken Salad.=—Cut up a cold boiled chicken into neat strips or +pieces, and mix with it an equal quantity of celery. Cut the +celery-stalks into inch pieces, and cut each piece into long strips; mix +them together with a few spoonfuls of Mayonnaise; arrange neatly upon a +dish garnished with lettuce, parsley, or hard-boiled egg, pour the +remainder of the sauce over the meat, and serve. + +=Veal Salad.=—Boil a nice lean piece of veal with a chicken or turkey, +saving the water in which they were boiled to make a soup, and serving +the fowl for dinner with egg or oyster sauce. When cold cut it up into +neat strips, mix it with celery or lettuce, pour Mayonnaise over it, and +serve. + +The custom of pickling the pieces, etc., of fowl before mixing them in a +salad does not take well with Americans. + +=Herring Salad.=—Soak four Holland herrings in water or milk for three +hours; then cut them up into neat, square pieces and set them aside; cut +up into slices nearly three quarts of boiled potatoes while they are +hot, and pour over them Rhine wine enough to moisten them; cover close, +and when cold add the herrings and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs +chopped fine; crush a dozen whole peppers in a napkin, add to the salad, +and mix. If milt herrings are used pound the milt to a paste, moisten it +with vinegar, and pour over the salad. + +If roe herring are used, separate the eggs neatly and sprinkle them over +the salad, and serve. + +I know a number of my German friends who will say, “Ah! that is not a +herring salad.” Where are the apples, the capers, beets, pickles, etc.? +But the only answer I can make them is that the majority of our German +brethren make an Italian or a Russian salad and call it a herring salad. + +=Potato Salad.=—Cut up three quarts of boiled potatoes, _while hot_, +into neat pieces, and add to them a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a +tablespoonful of chopped onion, a teaspoonful of pepper, and one of +salt; add a cupful of oil, and mix; then add a cupful of warm stock, a +wineglassful of vinegar (from the mixed-pickle bottle), mix the +ingredients together carefully, and do not break the potato any more +than is absolutely necessary; set it in the ice-box, and when cold serve +by placing a leaf of lettuce on a side-dish, and put two spoonfuls of +the salad upon the lettuce. The onion and parsley may be omitted, and +boiled root celery added, or a little stalk celery chopped fine. You +cannot make a perfect potato salad with cold boiled potatoes. Most +cook-books recommend them, but that soggy, peculiar taste cannot be +removed or destroyed by all the condiments in the cruet-stand. A salad +prepared while the potatoes are hot will look more appetizing and will +keep three or four days, while cold boiled potatoes will turn a black, +uninviting color, and turn sour the second day. + +=Turnip Tops.=—When turnips placed in the cellar begin to sprout they +are usually thrown away, but the housekeeper of experience will tell you +that a bushel of turnips will furnish her family with a salad all +winter, and a very good one if properly prepared. + +Place the bushel of turnips in a dark, warm cellar to sprout, and when +the sprouts are three or four inches long cut them off; pick the leaves +from the stems, and pour hot water over them; let them remain in the hot +water a moment, then plunge them into cold water; place the sprouts in +the colander to drain off all the water, and send to table with a plain +dressing or bacon dressing poured over them. + +=Asparagus Salad.=—Boil the asparagus, and take it from the hot water +and plunge it into cold water to give it firmness; drain off the water, +and send to table with sauce Vinaigrette or plain French dressing. + +=Hop Sprouts.=—The hop-growers pull up all but two or three sprouts from +a hill of hops, and throw them away; the few that remain in the hill are +supposed to do duty as pole-climbers. Gather a small basketful of the +rejected sprouts; take them home; boil them in salted water a few +minutes, then plunge them into cold water; drain off all the water, and +serve with a plain French dressing, bacon dressing, or sauce +Vinaigrette. + +If you eat asparagus you will like hop sprouts. + +=Cucumber Salad.=—Peel and slice the cucumbers as thin as possible; put +the slices in salted water five minutes, then draw off the water; cover +them with vinegar, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and salt if necessary. + +=Cucumber and Tomato Salad.=—Peel and slice a five-inch cucumber into +very thin slices; put them in a bowl with half a teaspoonful of salt and +two tablespoonfuls of vinegar; set it aside and mix a plain English +dressing. + +Take one large or two small-sized tomatoes, scald them a moment, remove +the skin and put them in cold water a few minutes to cool; line the +salad-bowl with lettuce, drain the cucumbers from the pickle and put +them in the bowl; wipe the tomatoes and cut them into slices; put them +on top of the cucumber, pour the dressing over it, and serve. + + OFFICE WESTERN UNION TELEGRAPH COMPANY, } + HARRISBURG, PENN., April 16, 1879. } + + _Mr. Murrey, Caterer Continental Hotel, Philadelphia_: + + Send by express, to-morrow, one hundred Murrey salad sandwiches. + + HENRY M. HOYT, _Governor_. + +=Murrey’s Salad Sandwich.=—Cut up four ounces of breast of boiled +chicken and four ounces of tongue, place them in a mortar, and pound +them to a paste; add two salt-spoonfuls of celery-salt, a pinch of +cayenne, a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, and four tablespoonfuls of +Mayonnaise; put the mixture on a cold dish, and set it aside. + +Take a few neat leaves of lettuce, dip each leaf in a little tarragon +vinegar, shake it, and place it on a slice of bread; spread a layer of +the prepared meat over the lettuce, then another leaf of lettuce over +the meat, and the other slice of bread, and your sandwich is made. Trim +off the crust, cut each sandwich in two, and fold each piece neatly in +confectionery (oiled) paper. + +Ham and veal make a nice salad sandwich. The meat may be spread on the +bread and the lettuce in the centre, if preferred. + +=Muskmelon Salad.=—Should you be so unfortunate as to receive an +insipid, over-ripe melon, do not send it from the table, but scoop it +out on your plate with a spoon, pour a French dressing over it, and you +will thank me for the suggestion. + +=Alligator-Pear Salad.=—This tropical fruit, that tastes something like +our chestnuts, is beginning to find favor among us, but care should be +used in selecting the fruit. The green colored fruit is the best; the +black, over-ripe fruit is useless. Cut the pear in two, remove the large +seed, cut away the outer rind, then cut the fruit into strips and season +with a salt-spoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls best Virgin olive-oil, +a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar—nothing else. + +=Salt.=—Of all the condiments now in use salt is the most essential. The +health of every individual depends upon it, and it is as much required +as food or drink; therefore the salt question is an important one to +families. Do not buy salt so fine as to cake in the salt-cellar, for it +is almost useless; nor use a very coarse salt; a happy medium is the +thing. What is known to the trade as Royal Table Salt is the proper +fineness and best adapted for hotels and family use. + +=Mushrooms.=—I have purposely avoided introducing mushrooms into my +receipts on account of the expense attached, but where the expense is +only a secondary consideration they may be used indiscriminately. Of the +French canned mushrooms the A. Godillot’s brand gives the best +satisfaction, being put up and sealed at the source of supply, and, +therefore, their natural flavors are preserved. Our field mushrooms are +very nice when fresh, cooked in any form. To distinguish them from the +poisonous fungi, “A Constant Reader,” writing to the London _Times_, +says: “I venture to send you a simple test of the mushroom, which I have +practised for many years, and for which I am indebted to an old +herbalist. Before peeling the mushroom pass a gold ring backwards and +forwards on the skin of the mushroom; should the bruise thus caused turn +yellow or orange color the mushroom is poisonous, but otherwise it is +quite safe. I have tried repeated baskets of mushrooms in this way, some +turning yellow and others retaining the usual color, though in all other +respects to all appearance the same.” + +Forney’s _Progress_ on mushrooms: + +He saw a fellow gathering mushrooms, and he knew they were the poisonous +kind. + +“Take care,” he said, “those mushrooms are poisonous.” + +“Oh! that makes no difference,” replied the man. “I am not going to eat +them; I’m gathering them for market.” + +=The Mystery of making Loaf Bread—A Trustworthy Receipt.=—“Loaf bread,” +once said an experienced housekeeper to us, “interferes with the +salvation of more housekeepers than any other one thing in the world.” +This was probably an extravagant statement, yet to the country housewife +who cannot turn to a convenient bakery the duty of breadmaking is too +often a heavy cross—a sort of hit-or-miss experiment. Heavy, sour bread +is far more general than the opposite, and this is trying to both the +digestions and to the tempers of the family who eat it. Yet there is no +reason for this; there is a philosophy of breadmaking as of everything +else, and certain causes accomplish certain results. Therefore we are +glad to be able to give a receipt from a practical housekeeper whose +bread _never_ fails: To make two quarts of bread or rolls take four or +five nice, large Irish potatoes, peel and cut them up, and put them to +boil in just enough water to cover them. When done mash smooth in the +same water, and when _cool_, not _cold_, add a half-teacupful of +yeast—or, if you use compressed yeast, the sixth part of a cake +dissolved in tepid water—a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a little salt, a +tablespoonful of lard, and a pint of flour. Mix together lightly. This +should be very soft and quite sticky. Set by in a covered vessel in a +warm place to rise. In two or three hours it will be risen, and should +look almost like yeast, full of bubbles. Now work in the rest of your +two quarts of flour, and, if necessary, add a little cold water. The +dough should be rather soft and need not be kneaded more than half an +hour. Set to rest in a moderately warm place for four hours or +thereabouts. It can be baked now if wanted at once, but, if not, take a +spoon and push the dough down from the top and sides of the vessel +containing it, and let it rise again. The oftener the bread rises the +lighter it will be—three times is, however, sufficient. After it rises +the last time take it out of the vessel and knead it with your hands +until it is smooth. If too soft add a little more flour. For rolls, roll +out and cut as if for biscuit. If you prefer doubled rolls give each a +touch with the rolling-pin to make it oblong, and then double it over. +The baking-pan must be greased and the rolls must not touch each other. +Set down to rise; this will take half or three-quarters of an hour. Then +put in the oven and bake as you would biscuit. Unless the oven is _hot_ +the rolls will spread and the crust be hard.—_Col. McClure’s +Philadelphia Times._ + +=Wheat Bread.=—Put seven pounds of flour into a bread-pan, hollow out +the centre, and add a quart of lukewarm water, a teaspoonful of salt, +and a wineglassful of yeast. Have ready more warm water, and add +gradually as much as will make a smooth, soft dough. Knead it well; dust +a little flour over it, cover it with a cloth, and set it in a warm +place for four hours; then knead it again for fifteen minutes and let it +rise again. Divide it into loaves and bake in a quick oven. + +=Corn Bread.=—Sift three quarts of corn meal, add a tablespoonful of +salt, and mix sufficient water with it to make a very thin batter. Cover +it with a bread-cloth and set it to rise. When ready to bake stir it +well, pour it into a baking-pan, and bake slowly. Use cold water in +summer and hot water in winter. + +=Continental Hotel Corn Bread.=—Sift together a pound and a half wheat +flour, one pound Indian meal, two ounces Royal Baking Powder, and a +tablespoonful salt. Beat together three ounces of sugar, three ounces of +butter, and four eggs; add the mixture to the flour, and make a stiff +batter by adding warm milk if in winter, cold milk in summer. Bake in +small square moulds. + +=Continental Hotel Muffins.=—Mix two and a half pounds flour, three +ounces Royal Baking Powder, and tablespoonful salt. Beat up three ounces +of sugar, three ounces butter, and four eggs together; add to the flour, +make a batter with milk, half fill the muffin-rings, and bake in a quick +oven. + +=Boston Brown Bread.=—Sift together thoroughly half a pint of flour, one +pint corn meal, half a pint rye flour, one teaspoonful salt, one +tablespoonful brown sugar, and two teaspoonfuls baking powder. Peel, +wash, and boil two mealy potatoes; rub them through the sieve, diluting +with half a pint of water. When this is quite cold use it to make a +batter and pour it into a well-greased mould having a cover. Place it in +a saucepan of boiling water. Simmer one hour without the water getting +into it; take it out of the water, remove the cover, and finish cooking +by baking about thirty minutes. + +=Steamed Brown Bread.=—One quart each of milk and Indian meal, one pint +of rye meal, one cup of molasses, two teaspoonfuls of soda. Add a little +salt and steam four hours. + + M. G. H. + +=Milk Biscuit.=—Take one-fourth of a pound butter, one quart lukewarm +milk, two wineglassfuls yeast, salt to taste, and as much flour as will +form the dough. Stir flour into the milk to make a thick batter, and add +the yeast. This should be done in the evening. Next morning melt the +butter and pour it into the sponge; add flour enough to make a stiff +dough; knead it well and set it aside to rise. When perfectly light roll +it out an inch thick and cut the biscuits, set them in shallow +baking-pans, and set them in a moderately warm place to rise. When they +are light brush beaten egg over them and bake in a quick oven. + +=Corn Cakes.=—Scrape twelve ears of corn, use two eggs, one and one-half +cups of milk, salt and pepper to taste, and flour enough to hold all +together. Fry in hot fat. + + M. G. H. + +=Fried Bread Cakes.=—Add half a cupful of melted butter, three of “A” +sugar, four eggs, teaspoonful of salt, and a little grated nutmeg to +five cupfuls of dough. Knead these well together with flour, and set it +before the fire to rise until very light. Knead the dough again after it +rises, and cut it into diamond or crescent shaped cakes; let them rise, +and fry them in boiling fat. + +=Pies.=—Pie, and the extent to which it is consumed in this country, +have long been a subject upon which Europeans travelling here have +exercised their descriptive and imaginative powers. It seems to be a +cardinal belief on the other side that no meal is furnished here without +a superabundance of pie; that, even at the best inns and restaurants in +New York, Boston, and Philadelphia, pie is devoured at breakfast, +luncheon, dinner, and supper; that no American would sit down to a table +where he could not see plenty of pie; that all the States are closely +connected and bound together by a prejudice in favor of pie; that it was +love of pie rather than force of patriotism which, in the civil war, +preserved the Union. Sala is one of the latest Englishmen to descant on +the omnipresence and national omnivorousness of pie. He devotes ample +space to it in one of his recent letters to the London _Telegraph_; +admits that he has eaten it, and that it is so very toothsome that it is +difficult to resist its temptations. He has done what a great many of +our own people never do. Hundreds of families in this and in other +cities do not see a pie from beginning to end of the year. Thousands of +natives have never tasted pie. In the large towns of the Middle States +it is but seldom put on the table. New England, indeed, is the region to +which pie is indigenous, though even there it is confined mainly to the +rural districts. It appears odd, however, that Englishmen should so +animadvert on our pies, as if they had never tasted or heard of such +things. They have any quantity of pies at home, but these are meat pies, +commonly of pork and mutton, and as hostile to gastric conditions as bad +pastry and poor baking can conveniently make them. They have, too, any +number of fruit pies, giving them the name of tarts, not to be compared +with our pies. The gooseberry tart, almost as much a British dish as +plum-pudding, is eaten from Cornwall to Northumberland, and that its +eaters survive it proves the strength and elasticity of the national +stomach. It is usually as heavy as lead and a guarantee of indigestion. +The French also have numberless pies under the disguise of _tartes_, but +no better than, often not so good as, ours. In truth, the American pie +is widely prevalent in the Old World, where, as a rule, it is inferior +to the native article. + + NEW YORK TIMES. + +=Puff Paste.=—Good sweet, salt butter, which has been washed in cold +water, squeezed between the hands to free it from the salt, and +afterwards wrung in a cloth to take away all the moisture, is the best +material that can be used. The consistency of the butter is of much +importance. If it is too hard it will not easily mix with the flour, but +if it is too soft the paste will be entirely spoilt in consequence of +the butter breaking through the edges while it is being rolled. As the +difficulty experienced is generally to get the butter sufficiently cool, +it is a good plan to place it upon ice before using it for the pastry. +In hot weather the paste should be placed in a cool place a few minutes +between each turn. If very flaky pastry is required, the paste may be +brushed lightly over each time it is rolled with white of egg. Sift one +pound of flour; put it on the pastry-board. Make a hole in the centre; +add half a teaspoonsful salt and little less than half a pint of +ice-water. The exact quantity of water cannot be given, owing to the +difference in flour, but experience will soon enable you to determine +when the paste is sufficiently stiff. Mix it in gradually with a knife, +then work it lightly with the hands to form a smooth paste. Have ready +three-quarters of a pound of butter. Flatten the paste till it is an +inch thick; lay the butter in the centre, and fold over the four sides +of the paste so as to form a square and completely hide the butter. +Leave this to cool a few minutes, then dredge the board and the paste +with flour, and roll the paste out very thin, and be especially careful +that the butter does not break through the flour. Fold over a third of +the length from one end, and lay the other third upon it. This folding +into three is called giving one turn. Let the paste rest for a few +minutes, then give it two more turns; rest again, and give it two more. +This will be in all five turns, and these will generally be found +sufficient. If, however, the pastry is to be used for patties, etc., six +or seven turns will be required. Gather the paste together, and it is +ready for use, and should be baked as soon as possible; and remember to +dredge a little flour over it, the board, and rolling-pin every time it +is rolled, to keep it from sticking. French cooks mix the yolks of two +eggs with flour and water in the first instance. If a very rich paste is +required a pound of butter to a pound of flour may be used. + + CASSELL. + +=Paste.=—One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half a pound of +lard. With a little water make a dough of the flour and lard; then roll +it; spread a portion of the butter over it; fold and roll again; add +more butter, and so on until you have used the half pound all up. + +You cannot make good paste out of poor flour. The “Perfection New +Process Flour” will give you entire satisfaction. + +=Currant-Jelly.=—Make a good crust and cover your plates with it. Pare, +core, and cut up the apples in small pieces; put them on to stew in just +water enough to cover them; quarter a lemon and stew with the apples. +When soft mash the apples, remove the seeds if any, sweeten to taste, +and flavor with nutmeg or ground cinnamon. + +=Sliced Apple Pie.=—Make a good, light crust; wet the edge of the +pie-plate and lay a thin strip all round. Pare, core, and slice the +apples; lay them on the paste with a little sugar, the juice of half a +lemon; flavor with nutmeg. Lay a top crust over the fruit, and bake +nearly three-quarters of an hour. + +=Apple Meringue Pie.=—Prepare the pie as in the foregoing receipt, +omitting the upper crust, and while the pie is baking prepare a méringue +by beating up the whites of three eggs with three ounces of powdered +sugar to a stiff broth; spread two-thirds of the mixture over the fire, +and put the other third into a paper funnel or cornucopia, and by +squeezing it decorate the pie according to fancy; dust sugar over it. +Return it to the oven to set the méringue. + +=Apple-Custard Pie.=—Beat up six eggs with a cupful of sugar; add them +to three cupfuls of stewed apples (cold), and add gradually a quart of +milk to the mixture; season with nutmeg; cover the pie-plate with a good +crust, with the edge neatly arranged; fill the pie with the custard, and +bake. + +=Mince-meat for Pie.=—Shred and chop very fine two pounds of beef suet; +by dredging the suet occasionally with flour it chops more easily and +does not clog; boil slowly, but thoroughly, two pounds of lean round of +beef and chop fine (mix all the ingredients as they are prepared); stone +and cut fine two pounds of raisins; wash and pick two pounds of +currants; cut fine half a pound of citron; chop two pounds of apples, +weighing them after they have been peeled and cored; a tablespoonful of +salt, a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful +of allspice, half as much cloves, half an ounce of essence of almonds, a +pint of brandy, and a pint of cider. This may be kept in a cool place +all winter. If too dry add more cider. + +Manufacturers are competing with each other in the preparation of +mince-meat to such an extent that it is no longer economy to prepare +your mince-meat at home. Most of our first-class hotels use the +“Thanksgiving Brand,” a genuine New England preparation. It is put up in +five or ten pound buckets, and I consider it a great saving to families, +both in time and materials, to secure their meat all ready prepared, +when they know they can get a reliable article. + +When you are about to make mince-pies moisten the meat with cider, port, +brandy, or water. + +=Pumpkin Pie.=—Cut the pumpkin into strips, and stew them in water +enough to cover them nicely; when done pour off the water and press the +pumpkin through a sieve; add to the pulp two quarts of milk, and nine +eggs to every quart of pulp; sweeten with sugar (beat the sugar and eggs +together), and season liberally with ginger and nutmeg; prepare the +pie-plates with a crust as for custard pies; fill the plate with the +mixture, and bake in a hot oven. Serve the pies when cold. After drawing +off the water from the pumpkin cover the pot with a towel and let it +stand half an hour on the back part of the range to dry out the +moisture. + +=Fruit Pies.=—The under-paste for fruit pies may be made of flour and +lard, but the top is generally made of good puff paste; it may cover the +pie entirely or only in strips, according to fancy. Should the fruit +require longer cooking than the paste, prepare it by stewing or +simmering before filling the pies with it. + +=Custard Pies.=—Line a well-buttered pie-plate with a good paste; +arrange a thick pie rim round the edge of the plate; beat up four eggs +with one cupful of sugar, and gradually add a pint and a half of milk; +fill the pies while in the oven; grate a little nutmeg over them and +bake about twenty minutes. + +=Lemon Cream Pie.=—Boil a pint and a half of milk, and add three +tablespoonfuls corn-starch dissolved in a little cold milk. Return the +milk to the fire; take the juice of two lemons, four eggs, one cupful +sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Beat these ingredients +together, and add to the milk; flavor with a teaspoonful of extract of +lemon and grated nutmeg; pour the mixture into the pies (prepared as for +custard pies) and bake. When done remove from the oven and set it aside. +Whip up the whites of four eggs to a froth, and gradually add a cupful +of powdered sugar; spread two-thirds of the mixture on the pie, and put +the other one-third into a cornucopia, and by squeezing it decorate the +pie according to fancy. Return it to the oven a few minutes to set the +méringue. + +=Lemon Cream Pie, No. 2.=—One tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in +cold water, one cupful of boiling hot water, one tablespoonful of +butter, one egg, juice and rind of one lemon. Sweeten to taste, and set +aside to get cold. Fill crust with this cream, and bake in a hot oven. + + M. G. H. + +=Orange Pie.=—Work a teacupful of powdered sugar and a tablespoonful of +butter to a cream. Mix a tablespoonful of corn-starch with a little cold +water, and add a teacupful of boiling water; let it cook long enough to +thicken, stirring constantly; then pour the mixture on to the butter and +sugar. Grate the peel from half an orange, and chop the other half +fine—first removing all the inner white skin. Add this to the former +ingredients, also a beaten egg and the juice of an orange. Peel another +orange, and slice it in little thin bits, being careful to remove all +the seeds and the tough white skin. Line a pie-plate with nice paste and +bake it until just done; then fill with the custard and orange slices, +and bake long enough to cook the egg. A méringue made with the whites of +two eggs, a pinch of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, +beaten to a stiff froth, will be an improvement. Spread it over the pie; +sift powdered sugar on the top, and set it again in the oven until +slightly colored. + +=English Plum Pudding.=—Take six ounces of finely grated bread, and mix +with them a pound of flour, a pound of beef suet floured and chopped +fine, a teaspoonful salt, half a pound of granulated sugar, +three-fourths of a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, three-fourths of +a pound of washed currants, two ounces each of candied lemon and orange +peel, two ounces of citron shredded, a quarter of a pound apple chopped +fine, half an ounce of mixed spice, consisting of ground cloves, +cinnamon, and grated nutmeg, and half a teaspoonful of fresh grated +lemon-peel. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and work the mixture into +a stiff batter by adding to it five eggs beaten up with half a pint of +rich milk and a gill of brandy; turn the mixture into a floured towel; +shape it nicely; tie it up not too tightly, but leave room enough for it +to swell. Put it into a saucepan of boiling water, and keep it boiling +for five hours uninterruptedly. Have a kettle of boiling water ready to +add to your saucepan as fast as the water evaporates. When done sift +powdered sugar over it; pour a little brandy or Jamaica rum round it; +set a match to the liquor, and send it to the table with a hard or +brandy sauce. + +=Plum-Pudding Sauce.=—Four ounces sugar and two ounces butter, well +creamed together; then beat an egg well into it, with two ounces of +brandy. + +=New England Plum Pudding.=—Two pounds bread, four quarts milk, three +pounds raisins, two grated nutmegs, three teaspoonfuls each of cinnamon +and allspice, eight eggs, one cup sugar, and one cup molasses. Bake +three hours. + + M. G. H. + +=Plain Plum Pudding.=—Flour six ounces of suet, and chop it fine; add a +quarter of a pound of currants, the same quantity of raisins, half a +teaspoonful salt, and a teaspoonful Royal Baking Powder; sift a pound of +flour into the mixture; mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and stir +into them nearly a pint of milk with three tablespoonfuls of molasses; +add a little mixed spice; shape the pudding nicely; tie it up in a +floured towel, allowing room for it to swell, and boil three hours. + +=Boiled Pudding.=—Take a cupful of chopped suet, a cupful of grated +bread, and a cupful of washed currants; mix with two tablespoonfuls +sugar, a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, a salt-spoonful salt, and +grated nutmeg; beat up two eggs with half a cupful of milk, and work the +mixture to a light paste; wring some small cloths out of boiling water, +flour them, and tie in each a small portion of the mixture; plunge them +into boiling water, let them boil quickly half an hour, turn them out on +a hot dish, dash sugar over them, and serve with a sauce made of +sweetened melted butter, with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel, nutmeg +to taste; a few spoonfuls of brandy will improve it. + +=Batter Pudding.=—Beat the yolks and whites of four eggs separately, and +mix them with six or eight ounces of flour and a salt-spoonful of salt. +Make the batter of the proper consistency by adding a little more than a +pint of milk; mix carefully; butter a baking-tin, pour the mixture into +it, and bake three-quarters of an hour. Serve with vanilla sauce. + +=Vanilla Sauce.=—Put half a pint of milk in a small saucepan over the +fire; when scalding hot add the yolks of three eggs, and stir until it +is as thick as boiled custard; remove the saucepan from the fire, and +when cool add a tablespoonful of Thurber’s double extract of vanilla and +the beaten whites of two eggs. + +=Chocolate Pudding.=—One quart of milk boiled with one ounce of grated +chocolate; sweeten to taste, and flavor with vanilla. Boil thoroughly, +and stand aside to cool fifteen minutes; then stir in the yolks of six +eggs, well beaten; bake in a pudding-dish until it stiffens like +custard. Beat the whites of six eggs, with six tablespoonfuls of +powdered sugar, to a stiff froth, and spread over top of pudding; put in +oven and brown quickly. + + M. G. H. + +=Crullers.=—Half a pint of buttermilk, one cupful of butter, two cupfuls +sugar, and three eggs; beat up the eggs and add the sugar and milk. +Dissolve half a teaspoonful of saleratus in a little hot water; add to +the mixture, with a teaspoonful salt, half a nutmeg grated, and half a +teaspoonful of fresh ground cinnamon. Work in as much sifted flour as +will make a smooth dough; mix thoroughly; dredge the board, rolling-pin, +and dough with flour; roll it out and cut it in rings or fingers, and +fry in hot fat. + +I have recommended buttermilk in the above receipt, knowing its +excellent qualities; but the majority of housekeepers consider it +utterly useless. The following from the _British Mail_ is appropriate +here: “As the butter which is taken from the milk is only the +carbonaceous or heat-producing element, there are still left in it all +the nourishing properties which make it so valuable as food. As a drink +for men at work in the hot sun buttermilk is far preferable to cider, +metheglin, switchel, or any preparation of beer whatever, as it is not +only cooling and refreshing, but also strength-giving. Of course there +are plenty of people, who are constantly dosing themselves with +blood-searchers, liver-purifiers, and stomach-invigorators, who would +laugh at the mention of buttermilk as a medicine, and yet if they could +be once persuaded to try drinking a glass of that fresh beverage every +day they would soon find a corrective of their poor appetites and +‘clogged-up’ livers. In a little book of ‘Plain Directions for the Care +of the Sick,’ written by an intelligent physician of Philadelphia, who +has under his medical supervision several charitable institutions, we +find buttermilk mentioned as being very useful, especially in fevers, as +an article of diet for the sick.” + +=Baking Powder.=—I have endeavored to recommend to my many readers a few +articles used in cooking that my long experience as a caterer has taught +me are the best. A good baking powder is a very important article to +have in every household, but it is difficult to get a powder without the +presence of alum. + +The Brooklyn Board of Health, on motion of President Crane, the Sanitary +Superintendent, was directed to procure samples of the various kinds of +baking powders sold in Brooklyn, have them analyzed, and make a report +thereon to the Board. Without going in detail into the constitution of +baking powders, it will only be necessary to say that they are made with +bicarbonate of soda, or carbonate of ammonia, and cream of tartar, +chemically known as the bitartrate of potassa. But the lack of skill, +resulting in lumps of soda in the product, led manufacturers to +ascertain the proper proportion of these salts and to mix them, selling +the compound as a baking powder. Some of the manufacturers, on account +of the cheapness of alum, have introduced it as an ingredient into +baking powder, and the report of the Brooklyn Board concludes as +follows: “From a careful examination we are satisfied that the weight of +evidence is against the use of alum in baking powders, and that the +risks incurred in its use are too great to be incurred for the sake of +cheapness alone. The mucous membrane of the stomach and the intestinal +canal is a delicate structure, and materials which would produce no +effect on the outside skin might irritate and inflame these organs.” + +Dr. Mott, the Government Chemist, in his review of the subject, makes +special mention of having analyzed the Royal Baking Powder and found it +composed of pure and wholesome materials. He also advises the public to +avoid purchasing baking powders as sold loose or in bulk, as he has +found by analyses of many samples that the worst adulterations are +practised in this form. And I may cheerfully add that our first-class +hotels use only the best of everything, not only in baking powders but +in every article that enters their storerooms, and that Royal Baking +Powder is the only baking powder they allow used in their bakeries, it +being free from alum and other unwholesome ingredients. + +=Roly-Poly Pudding.=—One quart of flour, one-half pound of suet chopped +fine; rub in a little salt with flour, wet with water, and then roll it +out and spread any kind of fruit over it. Roll up, put in cloth, and +boil one hour. + + M. G. H. + +=Roly-Poly Lemon Pudding.=—Take the pulp from three lemons; remove the +pith and add to it an equal weight of sugar; boil twenty minutes; then +set the mixture to cool. Chop up seven ounces of suet, and mix it with +one pound of flour, a salt-spoonful of salt, and water enough to make a +paste; roll it out nearly an inch in thickness; spread the lemon mixture +upon it, and roll it into a long pudding; pinch the ends together, tie +it in a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil constantly +for two hours. Serve with wine-sauce. + +=Marlborough Pudding.=—Grate apples enough to make eight ounces; add to +this eight ounces of fine white sugar which has been well rubbed on the +rind of a large lemon, six well-beaten eggs, three tablespoonfuls of +cream, the strained juice of three lemons, eight ounces of butter; add +quantity at pleasure of orange-flower water, and the grated peel of an +orange and a lemon; line the pie-dish with rich puff paste, put in the +mixture, and let it bake in a quick oven. + +=Macaroni Pudding.=—Butter a pie-dish, and cover the bottom with two and +one-half ounces uncooked macaroni; pour over it one quart of cold milk, +add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, stir in two well-beaten eggs, and +flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla (double extract) or any flavoring +desired. Put bits of butter over top, dust a little grated nutmeg over +top, and bake slowly two hours and a half. + +=Steamed Arrowroot Pudding.=—Mix two tablespoonfuls of Beatty’s Bermuda +arrowroot with one cupful of milk; flavor one pint and a half of milk +with any desired flavoring, put it on the fire, and when it boils pour +it upon the arrowroot; stir well, and when it is cool add three +well-beaten eggs, one tablespoonful each of sugar and brandy; put it +into a well-buttered mould, cover, and steam it one hour and a half; +then turn it out on a dish, and arrange some preserves or jam neatly +around it, and serve. + +=Almond Pudding.=—Blanch and pound, with a little water, three ounces of +sweet and four ounces of bitter almonds; add one pint of milk, three +tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, one tablespoonful of +flour mixed smoothly in a little cold milk, one tablespoonful of grated +bread, two eggs well beaten, and the whites of two eggs whisked to a +froth; pour the mixture into a buttered mould, cover, and boil quickly +three-quarters of an hour; let it stand a few minutes before turning out +of mould. Serve with vanilla sauce. + +=Bachelor’s Pudding.=—Beat up three eggs, flavor with essence of lemon +and grated nutmeg, and add them to four ounces each of finely-minced +apples, currants, grated bread-crumbs, and two ounces of sugar; mix +thoroughly and boil in a buttered mould nearly three hours. Serve with +following sauce. + +=Wine-Sauce.=—Boil the thin rind of half a lemon in one wineglassful of +water till the flavor is extracted; then take it out and thicken the +sauce by stirring into it one salt-spoonful of rice, flour, or arrowroot +which has been mixed in water or milk, a walnut of butter; boil a +moment, then add half a tumblerful of good wine; let the sauce get quite +hot without boiling, sweeten a little, and serve with the pudding. + +=Bird’s-Nest Pudding.=—Make the foundation of nest of blanc-mange or +corn-starch; grate the rinds of three lemons, and arrange around the +blanc-mange to represent straw; extract the contents of four eggs +through a small hole and fill the egg-shells with hot blanc-mange or +corn-starch; when cold break off the shells and lay the moulded eggs in +nest. Serve with jam or preserves. + +=Harlan’s Pudding.=—Take three ounces each of butter, sugar, and flour; +whisk two eggs thoroughly, and gradually mix with them the loaf-sugar, +which must be rubbed well on the rind of a lemon before it is pounded; +then add the flour and the butter partially melted, a salt-spoonful of +salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Butter insides of several cups; put a +little jam at the bottom of each, and fill them nearly full with the +mixture; bake half an hour; turn them out and serve with wine-sauce. + +=Cocoanut Pudding.=—Beat two eggs with one cupful of new milk; add +one-quarter of a pound of grated cocoanut; mix with it three +tablespoonfuls each of grated bread and powdered sugar, two ounces of +melted butter, five ounces of raisins, and one teaspoonful of grated +lemon-peel; beat the whole well together; pour the mixture into a +buttered dish, and bake in a slow oven; then turn it out, dust sugar +over it, and serve. This pudding may be either boiled or baked. + +=Citron Pudding.=—Sift two tablespoonfuls of flour and mix with the +beaten yolks of six eggs; add gradually one pint of sweet cream, a +quarter of a pound of citron cut in small strips, and two tablespoonfuls +of sugar; mix thoroughly, pour the batter into buttered tins, and bake +twenty-five minutes. Serve with wine or vanilla sauce. + +=Eve’s Pudding.=—Beat six ounces of butter to a cream; add six ounces of +sifted flour and six of sugar; separate the yolks from the whites of +four eggs; beat them till they are light, then add the beaten yolks and +afterwards the whites to the batter; mix, and add half a dozen pounded +almonds and the grated rind of one lemon. Fill small tins about half +full; set them before the fire for a few minutes, and when they have +risen place them in the oven and bake for half an hour. Serve with a +sweet fruit sauce. + +=Sliced Apple Pudding.=—Mix two tablespoonfuls of arrowroot with one +pint of cream; add two tablespoonfuls of sugar; put in stew-pan and +place over fire until it boils. Slice thinly apples enough to fill a +large-sized dish, laying them in a dish with alternate layers of apples +and sugar and small walnuts of butter; pour on a tumblerful of jam as +next layer, and over all pour mixture of arrowroot. Bake in moderate +oven twenty-five minutes. + +=Astor House Pudding.=—Mix one tablespoonful of flour with two of milk; +pour over it one cupful of boiling milk flavored with one teaspoonful +extract of vanilla; add one tablespoonful of sugar, a walnut of butter, +and the yolk of an egg, beaten. Line the edge of pudding-dish with a +rich puff paste, and fill the dish two-thirds full with slices of +sponge-cake over which a good jam has been spread; pour the custard over +them and bake in a moderate oven; when done take out. Beat up the whites +of two eggs with nearly one cupful of powdered sugar; spread the +méringue over the pudding, and sprinkle a little sugar over it; return +it to the oven a few minutes until the méringue is fawn-colored, and +serve in dish with clean, white napkin neatly bound around the sides. + +A good wine-sauce may be served with it if desired. + +=Manhattan Pudding.=—Dissolve a walnut of saleratus in one tablespoonful +of hot water; mix one cupful of milk, three well-beaten eggs, two +tablespoonfuls of flour (mixed with cold milk), one pinch of salt, and +four ounces of chopped citron; add saleratus, and mix all thoroughly; +pour the mixture into a buttered mould, tie mould in a floured cloth, +boil one hour and a half, turn out, and serve with a fruit sauce. + +=Manioca Pudding.=—Three tablespoonfuls of manioca, one quart of milk, a +little salt, one tablespoonful of butter, and two well-beaten eggs; +sugar, spice, or flavoring to the taste. Mix manioca in half the milk +cold, and, with the butter, stir on the fire until it thickens or boils; +pour it quickly into a dish, stir in the sugar and the remaining milk, +and when quite cool add the eggs, spice, and wine or other flavoring. +This pudding may be varied by omitting the eggs and substituting +currants, chopped raisins or candied lemon, orange or citron sliced. +Bake half an hour in a moderate oven. + + + + + _CAKES._ + + +=English Christmas Cake.=—Sift five pounds of flour; mix with it one +tablespoonful of salt, one pound and a half of butter, and half a pint +of fresh brewer’s yeast or five teaspoonfuls of baking powder; if yeast +is used allow dough to rise before adding other ingredients; mix in +three pounds of washed currants, one pound and a half of “A” sugar, a +whole nutmeg grated, one-quarter of a pound of chopped candied +lemon-peel, one wineglassful of brandy, and four well-beaten eggs; +butter the tins and line them with buttered paper; bake in a moderate +oven for two hours. The quantity of brandy recommended will serve to +keep these cakes fresh for an indefinite time. + +=Apple Snow.=—Reduce half a dozen apples to a pulp; press them through a +sieve; add half a cupful powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of extract of +lemon; take the whites of six eggs, whip them for several minutes, and +sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar over them; beat the apple +pulp to a froth, and add the beaten egg; whip the mixture until it looks +like stiff snow; then pile it high in rough portions on a glass dish, +garnish with small spoonfuls of currant-jelly, and stick a sprig of +green on top. + +=Almond Cake.=—Blanch and pound in a mortar thoroughly eight ounces of +sweet and one of bitter almonds; add a few drops of rosewater or white +of egg every few minutes to prevent oiling; add six tablespoonfuls of +sifted sugar and eight beaten eggs; sift in six tablespoonfuls of flour +and work it thoroughly with the mixture, gradually add a quarter of a +pound of creamed butter; beat the mixture constantly while preparing the +cake, or it will be heavy; pour the mixture into a buttered tin (place a +buttered paper between the tin and the cake), allowing room for it to +rise, and bake in a quick oven. Should the oven prove too hot for it, +and the cake be in danger of burning, cover it with paper for a few +minutes. + +=Almond Sponge-Cake.=—Take half a pound of loaf-sugar, rub the rind of +lemon on a few of the lumps, and crush the whole to a powder; separate +the whites from the yolks of five eggs, beat the yolks, and add the +sugar gradually; then beat the whites to a stiff froth; add it to the +dish, and sift in flour enough to make a batter; add a tablespoonful of +essence of almonds; butter and paper a tin, pour in the mixture until +the tin is two-thirds full, and bake one hour in a moderate oven. The +bottom of the tin may be studded with small pieces of almonds. + +=Zephyr Cakes.=—Excellent tea-cakes. Wash the salt out of nearly a +quarter of a pound of butter; add to it a quarter of a pound of powdered +sugar and three well-beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of rosewater, and sifted +flour enough to make a thin batter; stir it with a wooden spoon till the +batter is perfectly smooth and so light that it will break when it falls +against the sides of the mixing-bowl; fill well-buttered muffin-moulds +(small) nearly half full with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven; +serve hot with newly-made butter. + +=Columbia Cake.=—Beat three-quarters of a pound of butter to a cream; +add gradually a pound of sugar, four well-beaten eggs, a cupful of milk, +half a grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful cinnamon, a wineglassful of +brandy, nearly two pounds of flour, and half a pound of washed currants; +beat these ingredients together twenty minutes. Dissolve a teaspoonful +of saleratus in a few spoonfuls of hot water, and stir it into the +mixture; butter the pan and line it with buttered paper, pour in the +cake, and bake in a moderate oven. + +=Knickerbocker Cakes.=—Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream; add +half a pound of powdered sugar, three-quarters of a pound of sifted +flour, a tablespoonful of orange-flower water and one of brandy, and +four ounces of washed currants; add five well-beaten eggs, and beat the +mixture until very light. Line some shallow cake-tins with buttered +paper, pour in the mixture until they are half full, and bake in a quick +oven. + +=Cocoanut Cake.=—One and a half cups of sugar, half a cup each of butter +and milk, one cup of cocoanut grated fine, two cups flour, three +teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in pans with dry cocoanut sprinkled +over the top (three cakes). + + M. G. H. + +=Olive Gingerbread.=—Five and one-half cups of flour, two cups of +molasses, one cup of sour cream, half a cup of butter, and two +teaspoonfuls each of soda and ginger. M. G. H. + +=Chocolate Cake.=—_Outside_: Half a cup of butter, two cups of sugar, +one cup of cold water, three cups of flour, four eggs, whites and yolks +beaten separately, and three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. _Inside_: +Five tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate with enough cream or milk to wet +it, one cupful of brown sugar, and one egg well beaten. Let it come to a +boil, and then flavor with vanilla. Cake is made in layers like jelly +cake. + + M. G. H. + +=Chocolate Macaroons.=—Put three ounces of plain chocolate in a pan, and +melt on a slow fire; then work it to a thick paste with one pound of +powdered sugar and the whites of three eggs; roll the mixture down to +the thickness of about one-quarter of an inch; cut it in small, round +pieces with a paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped; butter a pan +slightly, and dust it with flour and sugar in equal quantities; place in +it the pieces of paste or mixture, and bake in a hot but not quick oven. + +=Whortleberry Cake.=—One quart of flour, one cupful of sugar, one pint +of berries, a little salt, and three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Mix +stiff with milk like biscuit. + + M. G. H. + +=Whortleberry Cake, No. 2.=—One cupful of sugar, two eggs, one and a +half cupfuls of milk with half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it; +butter size of an egg, one quart of berries, one teaspoonful of +cream-tartar, and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Bake in +muffin-rings or tins. + +=Cocoanut Pound Cake.=—Beat half a pound of butter to a cream; add +gradually a pound of sifted flour, one pound of powdered sugar, two +teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of grated +lemon-peel, quarter of a pound of prepared cocoanut, four well-beaten +eggs, and a cupful of milk; mix thoroughly; butter the tins, and line +them with buttered paper; pour the mixture in to the depth of an inch +and a half, and bake in a good oven. When baked take out, spread icing +over them, and return the cake to the oven a moment to dry the icing. + +=Icing.=—One cupful white sugar, enough water to dissolve it; set on the +stove and let it boil until it will “hair”; beat the white of one egg to +a stiff froth, pour the heated sugar on the egg, and stir briskly until +cool enough to stay on the cake. The icing should not be applied until +the cake is nearly or quite cold. This will frost the tops of two +common-sized cakes. + +=Cream Cake.=—Sift half a pound of flour into three ounces of creamed +butter; add an even teaspoonful of baking powder, two tablespoonfuls +powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of grated +lemon-peel, a cupful of cream that has turned a little, and beaten egg. +Mix the batter, pour it into a buttered and papered tin, and bake in a +moderate oven. + +=Windsor Cake.=—Beat the yolks and whites of six eggs separately. Have +ready the crumbs of three Vienna rolls soaked in milk, and squeeze dry; +mix the crumbs with four ounces of melted butter, add the beaten yolks +and two ounces crushed sugar, with a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel; +work the mixture, and add gradually two ounces each of raisins, almond +paste, and candied orange-peel. Next add the frothed whites of eggs; +butter and paper a shallow tin, and bake in a moderate oven. When done +sprinkle powdered sugar over it. If preferred, chopped almonds may be +sprinkled over the bottom of the cake-tin before adding the cake. + +=Ginger Cup Cake.=—Mix two cupfuls of powdered sugar with two cupfuls of +warmed butter; add three well-beaten eggs, a cupful of molasses, four +heaping cupfuls of flour, a tablespoonful of fresh ground ginger, and a +tablespoonful of dissolved saleratus; mix thoroughly, and pour into +buttered moulds or patty pans. Bake in moderate oven. + +=Macaroons.=—Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet almonds; add one pound +of powdered sugar, the beaten whites of six eggs, two ounces of rice +flour, and one tablespoonful of brandy; mix all well together, and drop +the mixture in small quantities through a cornucopia on a sheet of +confectionery paper, leaving a small distance between each, and bake in +a moderate oven. It is best to bake one little cake at first, and if it +is at all heavy add a little more beaten white of egg. A strip of +blanched almond in the middle of each will be an improvement. They +should be baked a fawn color. + +=Neapolitan Cake.=—Blanch and pound to a smooth paste six ounces of +sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds; add a few drops of orange-flower +water while pounding to prevent oiling; add a pinch of salt, the grated +rind of one lemon, four ounces of butter from which the salt has been +extracted, half a pound of crushed loaf-sugar, ten ounces of flour; mix +thoroughly, and add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs after the eggs +have cooled a little. Roll the paste out to the thickness of about +one-quarter of an inch, and stamp out into small forms with a +cake-cutter; lay them upon a floured tin, and bake in a good oven. When +they are done take them out, and when cold cover the tops with a little +icing. Return them to the oven one moment to dry the icing. + +=Marbled Cake.=—One cupful of butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four +well-beaten eggs, and one cupful of milk; two teaspoonfuls of baking +powder; dissolve a large spoonful of chocolate with a little cream, and +mix with a cupful of the batter; cover the bottom of your pan with the +batter, and drop upon it in two or three places a spoonful of the +chocolate, forming rings, then another layer of the batter, and so on +until all is used. Bake in a moderate oven. + +=Pound Cake without Soda.=—One pound powdered sugar, half pound butter, +eight eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately and well; ten ounces +flour, one nutmeg; bake one hour or longer. Never fails, and will keep +one week. + +=Lady Fingers, No. 1.=—Beat the whites and yolks of four eggs +separately; mix with the yolks three ounces of flour and three of +powdered sugar; add the beaten whites, and afterwards a gill of +rosewater; beat all together a few minutes; put the mixture in a paper +funnel, and squeeze it out into the shape of fingers on paper which has +had a little powdered sugar dusted over it; dust a little sugar over the +fingers; let them stand five minutes, then bake to a fawn color in a +moderate oven; fasten together after they have been baked with a little +white of egg. Keep them in close-covered tin till wanted. + +=Lady Fingers, No. 2.=—Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of flour; +add half a pound of sugar; grate in the rinds of two lemons, and squeeze +in the juice of one; then add three eggs; make into a roll the size of +the middle finger; it will spread in the oven to a thin cake; dip in +chocolate icing. + +=Crescents.=—Mix three ounces of rice flour with three ounces of +powdered sugar; add three well-beaten eggs; mix all thoroughly, then +spread the mixture thinly on paper and bake for twenty minutes. Take it +out, and stamp into the shape of crescents; cover each crescent with +icing, and return them to the oven for a minute or two to dry; add to a +portion of the icing a little cochineal, to make some of the cakes +pink-colored. + +=Maids of Honor.=—One cup _each_ of sour and sweet milk, one small cup +of white pounded sugar-candy, one tablespoonful of melted butter, the +yolks of four eggs, and the juice and rind of one lemon. Put both kinds +of milk together in a vessel, which is set in another, and let it become +sufficiently heated to set the curd; then strain off the milk, rub the +curd through a strainer, add butter to the curd, also sugar-candy, +well-beaten eggs, and lemon. Line the little pans with the richest of +paste, and fill with the mixture; bake until firm in the centre—from ten +to fifteen minutes. + +=Charlotte Russe.=—Take one-fifth of a package of gelatine and half a +cupful cold milk; place in a farina boiler, and stir gently over the +fire until the gelatine is dissolved; pour into a dish, and place in a +cool room; take one pint of rich cream and whisk it with a tin +egg-beater until it is thick; flavor the cream with either vanilla or +wine, and sweeten to taste; when the gelatine is cool strain carefully +into the prepared cream; line a mould with ladyfingers; then pour the +cream in carefully until it is filled; cover with ladyfingers. + +=Manioca Cream.=—Three tablespoonfuls of manioca, one pint of milk, +three eggs, vanilla and sugar to taste; soak the manioca in water till +soft; boil the milk; while boiling stir in the manioca and the yolks of +the eggs, beaten with the sugar; when cooked sufficiently, pour into a +dish to cool; when cold, add the vanilla; beat the whites of the eggs +till stiff, sweeten and flavor them, and stir part into the pudding, +putting the rest on top. + +=Blanc-Mange.=—Blanch ten bitter almonds with two ounces of sweet +almonds, and pound them to a paste; add by degrees a third of a pint of +cold water; let it stand till settled, and strain off the almond milk. +Put into a pint of milk five ounces of loaf-sugar, three inches of stick +vanilla, and pour it into an enamelled saucepan; boil slowly till the +sugar is dissolved, then stir in an ounce of well-soaked isinglass; +strain into a basin; add the milk of almonds with a gill of cream; +remove the sticks of vanilla, and when cold pour the mixture into +individual moulds and place in ice-box till wanted. + +=Meringues.=—Take one pound of powdered sugar, and add it to the beaten +whites of eight eggs (slowly), until it forms a stiff froth; fill a +tablespoon with the paste, and smooth it with another spoon to the +desired shape; sift a little sugar over a sheet of paper, drop the +meringues about two inches apart; dust a little sugar over them, and +bake in a quick oven with door left open, so they can be watched +constantly; when fawn-colored, take them out; remove them from the paper +with a thin knife; scrape out of each a little of the soft part. They +may be neatly arranged around a dish of whipped cream, or filled with +ice-cream. If whipped cream is used, they would be improved by the +addition of a little bright jelly inside each méringue. + +=Macaroon Basket.=—This is a pretty and unconventional way of serving up +macaroons with whipped cream, etc. Make a cement of sugar boiled to +crackling, into which dip the edges of macaroons. Line a two-quart +(deep) cakepan with them, bottom and sides, taking care that the edges +of macaroons touch each other firmly; also have a care not to pack them +so tightly in the pan as to prevent easy removal. Set aside to dry, and +when wanted fill with the desired cream, and serve on a glass dish. + +=Italian Cream.=—Put one ounce of soaked isinglass, six ounces of +loaf-sugar, half a stick of vanilla, and one pint of milk into a +saucepan; boil slowly, and stir all the time until the isinglass is +dissolved; strain the mixture, and when a little cool mix it with a pint +of thick cream. Beat thoroughly until it thickens. Pour into a large or +individual moulds, and put in ice-box until wanted. + +=Whipped Coffee Cream.=—Sweeten one pint of rich cream rather liberally; +roast two ounces of coffee beans; when they are lightly browned throw +them into the cream at once and let the dish stand one hour before +using; strain and whip the cream to a firm froth. A teaspoonful of +powdered gum-arabic, dissolved in a little orange-flower water, may be +added to give the cream more firmness, if desired. + +=Whipped Cream with Liqueurs.=—Proceed as with coffee cream, flavoring +the cream before whipping with Curaçoa, Maraschino, or any other cordial +that may be desired. Other creams can be made on the same principle with +chocolate extracts or highly-flavored wines. + +=Bavarian Cream.=—Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth and set in a +colander one minute, to allow unwhipped portion to drip away; boil one +pint of milk with a stick of vanilla and half a cupful of sugar until +flavor is extracted; then take out stick of vanilla, and remove saucepan +from fire; add half a box of Cox’s gelatine that has been soaked in +water; add the well-beaten whites of four eggs, and when the mixture has +become quite cold add the whipped cream gradually until it is well +mixed; put into individual moulds a teaspoonful of some bright jelly or +jam, then pour in the mixture and place in ice-box until wanted. This +cream may be flavored in any way desired. + +=Ice-Cream.=—Use only the best materials for making and flavoring. Avoid +using milk thickened with arrowroot, corn-starch, or any farinaceous +substance. Pure cream, ripe natural fruits, or the extracts of same, and +sugar of the purest quality, combine to make a perfect ice-cream. In the +first place secure a good ice-cream freezer. Of these several are made. +Without recommending any particular make, we would suggest that one be +secured working with a crank and revolving dashers. Next secure an +ice-tub, not less than eight inches greater in diameter than the +freezer. See that it has a hole in the side near the bottom, with a +plug, which can be drawn at pleasure, to let off water accumulated from +melting ice. Get a spatula of hard wood—not metal—with a blade about +twelve inches long and four or five inches wide, and oval-shaped at end. +This is used to scrape off cream which may adhere to the sides of +freezer in process of freezing, also for working flavorings and fruits +into cream. A smaller spade is also necessary for mixing salt and ice +together and for depositing this mixture in the intervening space +between can and ice-tub. Ice must be pounded fine in a coarse, strong +bag. To freeze the cream, assuming it to be already flavored, first +pound up ice and mix with it a quantity of coarse salt, in the +proportion of one-third the quantity of salt to amount of ice used. Put +freezing-can in centre of tub, taking care that lid is securely fastened +down, and pile the mixed ice and salt around it on inside of tub to +within three inches of top. First turn crank slowly, and as cream +hardens increase the speed until mixture is thoroughly congealed, and +revolving dashers are “frozen in.” Remove the lid, take out dashers, cut +away the cream which has adhered to the sides, and proceed to work the +mixture with the spatula until it is smooth and soft to the tongue. +Reinsert the dashers, cover can again, and work crank until entire +contents are hard and well set. It is now ready to be served. + +=Vanilla Cream.=—Four quarts of very rich cream, containing no milk; +split two good-sized vanilla beans and cut up into small pieces; two +pounds of powdered sugar and four fresh eggs; beat the eggs thoroughly +in a porcelain-lined dish; add the sugar, and stir both well together; +add the cream and throw in vanilla; place on fire, stirring constantly +until boiling commences, but do not retain it there an instant after +that time; strain through a hair sieve, and when cool pour it into the +freezer and freeze. + +=Lemon Ice-Cream.=—Grate off the yellow rind of two large fresh lemons, +with half a pound of loaf-sugar, using care not to grate a particle of +the white, leathery pith beneath; crush the sugar to a powder, strain +over it the juice of one lemon; add a pint of rich cream; stir until +sugar is dissolved and freeze. + +=Peach Ice-Cream.=—Pound to a pulp twelve whole canned peaches; strain +through a hair sieve and add six ounces of loaf-sugar which has been +setting on fire to dissolve a few minutes; add one pint and a half of +cream and a few drops of cochineal to give it a nice peach-color; +freeze. Fruit creams of any kind can be made in same manner. + +=Water Ices.=—_Lemon Ice_: Rub the rinds of six lemons upon twelve +square lumps of sugar; squeeze over them the strained juice, half a pint +of water, and a pint of syrup made by boiling three-quarters of a pound +of sugar in nearly a pint of water; put in an earthen crock for one hour +and a half, then mix, strain, and freeze. The ice will be improved by +adding the whites of three eggs beaten to a froth with six ounces of +powdered sugar. Serve in glasses. + +_Apricot Ice_: Skin, divide, and stone six large ripe apricots; blanch, +pound, and add the kernels to the fruit, with the juice of two lemons, +half a pint of water and two ounces of clarified sugar; put in an +earthen crock for one hour and a half, then strain and mix the whites of +three eggs beaten to a firm froth with four ounces of powdered sugar; +add this to the prepared water, mix thoroughly, and freeze. + +=Orange Basket.=—Remove the fruit from interior of the orange carefully +by making a small incision on one side of the orange, then cut the skin +into shape of a basket, leaving about one-half an inch of the stalk end +for a handle. Fill the basket with ices, ice creams, frozen punches, +whipped creams, jellies, etc. They look very pretty on a table. The +fruit portion of orange can be utilized by removing the pith and seeds +and sending to table sweetened with sugar, or used to make orange +ice-cream or ices. + +=Good Coffee.=—The following remarks addressed to the trade by Messrs. +H. K. & F. B. Thurber & Co. are so true and brief, yet so comprehensive, +that I introduce them here: + +“Nothing is more generally desired or appreciated, nothing harder to +find, than a uniformly good cup of coffee. Its production is generally +considered an easy matter, but it involves the observance of a +considerable number of conditions by a considerable number of persons, +and a volume might be written about these and still leave much to be +said. We will, however, briefly state the most important requisites. + +“The wholesale dealer must exercise care and judgment in his selections, +as there is almost as much difference in the flavor of coffee as there +is of tea; this is especially true of Mocha, Java, Maracaibo, and other +fancy coffees, of which frequently the brightest and handsomest looking +lots are greatly lacking in the flavor and aroma which constitute the +chief value of coffee, and which can be ascertained only by testing +carefully each invoice purchased. It should be roasted by a professional +roaster, as this is a very important part of the programme, and requires +skill, experience, and constant practice. Expert roasters are usually +experienced men and command high salaries. A bad coffee-roaster is dear +at any price, as the coffee may be ruined or its value greatly injured +by an error in judgment or an instant’s inattention. Owing to these +circumstances, in addition to the fact that in order to do good work it +is necessary to roast a considerable quantity at a time, none of the +small hand-machines produce uniformly good results, and they are only to +be tolerated where distance makes it impossible for the retail merchant +to obtain regular and (when not in air-tight packages) frequent supplies +of the roasted article. _How much_ it should be roasted is also an +important part of the question; for making “BLACK” or “French” coffee, +it should be roasted higher than usual (the French also often add a +little chiccory), and some sections are accustomed to a higher roast +than others, but as a whole the customary New York standard will best +suit the average American palate. + +“Retail dealers should buy their roasted coffee of a reliable house that +has a reputation to sustain, and that cannot be induced to cut down +prices below what they can afford to furnish an article that will do +them credit; do not buy much at a time (unless in air-tight packages), a +week or ten days’ supply is enough, and if you are situated so you can +buy it twice a week so much the better. Keep it in a dry place, and, if +possible, in a tin can which shuts tightly, never in a pine box or bin, +for the smell of the wood is quickly absorbed by the coffee. Get your +customers in the habit of buying it in the berry, or, if they have no +mill at home and want you to grind it for them (every grocer should have +a mill), grind it pretty fine, so that when used the strength is readily +extracted, but do not sell them much at a time, as it is a _necessity_ +to have coffee _freshly ground_. + +“Consumers should adopt the above suggestions to retail dealers—buy of a +reliable dealer who will not represent an inferior article as ‘Java’; +buy in small quantities, and buy often; keep it dry and in a +tightly-closed tin can, or in a glass or earthen jar. Have a small ‘hand +coffee-mill,’ and grind only when ready to use it; and if during rainy +weather the kernels become damp and tough, warm them up in a _clean_ pot +or skillet, but do not scorch them; this drives off the moisture, +restores the flavor, and makes it grind better. The grinding is an +important feature; if ground too coarse, you lose much of the strength +and aroma of the coffee; if too fine, it is hard to make it clear, but +of the two the latter is least objectionable; both the strength and +flavor of the coffee, however, is a necessity, and if a little of the +finely-powdered coffee flows out with the liquid extract, it is clean +and will hurt nobody. It is better, however, to grind it _just right_, +which is so that the largest pieces will be no larger than pinheads. + +“We now come to the important part of making coffee. For this there are +many receipts and formulas, including a large number of new and +so-called improved coffee-pots, but we have never seen any of the new +methods which in the longrun gave as satisfactory results as the +following old-fashioned receipt: + +“Grind moderately fine a large cup of coffee; break into it one egg with +shell; mix well, adding just enough cold water to thoroughly wet the +grounds; upon this pour one pint of boiling water; let it boil slowly +for ten to fifteen minutes, and then stand three minutes to settle; pour +through a fine wire sieve into coffee-pot, which should be first rinsed +with hot water; this will make enough for four persons. _Coffee should +be served as soon as made._ At table first rinse the cup with hot water, +put in the sugar, then fill half full of _hot_ milk, add your coffee, +and you have a delicious beverage that will be a revelation to many poor +mortals who have an indistinct remembrance of and an intense longing for +_an ideal cup of coffee_. If you have cream, so much the better; and in +that case boiling water can be added either in the pot or cup to make up +for the space occupied by the milk, as above; or condensed milk will be +found a good substitute for cream. + +“_General remarks._—We have thus briefly indicated the points necessary +to be observed in obtaining uniformly good coffee, whether made from +Rio, or Java, and other mild-flavored coffees. In the Eastern and Middle +States Mocha, Java, Maracaibo, Ceylon, etc., are most highly esteemed +and generally used; but at the West and in the South more Rio coffee is +consumed. The coffee _par excellence_, however, is a mixture of Mocha +and Java roasted together, and thus thoroughly blended. Mocha alone is +too rough and acrid to suit many palates, but blended as above it is +certainly delicious. In all varieties, however, there is a considerable +range as to quality and flavor, and, as before stated, the best guide +for the consumer is to buy of a reliable dealer, and throw upon his +shoulders the responsibility of furnishing a satisfactory article. + +“Hotels and restaurants that desire good coffee should make it in _small +quantities_ and _more frequently_. It is impossible for coffee to be +good when it is kept simmering for hours after it is made.” + +“=A Cup of Coffee.=”—The author of “Salad for the Solitary,” etc., has +so well covered all the facts concerning the origin and history of this +domestic beverage that little remains to be said; but as the +establishment of the first coffee-house in London is connected with a +curious anecdote, perhaps my readers will like to hear it. + +Mr. D. Edwards, a Turkish merchant, on his return from Smyrna to London, +brought with him a Greek of Ragusa, named Pasquet Rossee, who used to +prepare coffee every morning for his master. Edwards’s neighbors, +beginning to appreciate the good qualities of this beverage, became so +numerous as visitors at breakfast-time that in order to get rid of them +he ordered Rossee to open a coffee-house, which the latter did in St. +Michael’s Alley, Cornhill. This was the first coffee-house in the city. + +Now, taking its popularity as a basis, let us laugh at the doctors who +maintain the theory that hot coffee irritates the stomach and injures +the nerves. Let us tell them that Voltaire, Fontenelle, and Fourcroy, +who were great coffee-drinkers, lived to a good old age. Let us laugh, +too, at Madame Sévigné, who predicted that coffee and Racine would be +forgotten together.—_Exchange._ + + + + + _VEGETABLES._ + + +=Potatoes.=—To boil a potato properly is very naturally supposed to be a +very easy matter, but how seldom do we meet with one boiled to a proper +turn? In 1873, while out hunting in northwestern Minnesota, I stopped at +an old log-cabin for dinner. The proprietor of the hostelry was an old +down-East Yankee, who, suffering from a lung complaint, had taken his +family out West, and had pre-empted one hundred and sixty acres, there +to remain the rest of his days. I had the good fortune of having a +well-filled pocket-pistol of brandy with me (to be used for medicinal +purposes only), which I soon converted into Apple-Sauce while his wife +was preparing dinner. He was delighted with it, and told me that it was +the first drop of spirits he had seen or tasted for several years (and I +believed him, from the manner in which that punch disappeared). This set +him to telling me what a splendid cook his wife was, and that she could +beat “all tarnation a’ biling taters.” I left him immediately and +offered my services to madam as second cook, my object being to learn +her _trick_ of boiling potatoes. At last dinner was ready, the cloth +spread, and while the judge (as he was called) set the table I looked +for a garden (?) to get a salad. Not finding the cultivated article, I +had to resort to the field, and obtained a few edible weeds, washed and +dried them, and prepared them for dinner. + + OUR BILL OF FARE. + + Vegetable Soup. + Smoked Shad with drawn Butter. + Roast Rump of Salted Beef. + Boiled Potatoes. + Parsnip Fritters. + Weed Salad. + Home-made Cheese. Cold Johnny-cake. + Acorn Coffee. + +My long tramp over the prairie hunting prairie-chickens may possibly +have had something to do with my ferocious appetite, but I do not +remember an occasion when I enjoyed myself so much at table or ate so +heartily. The dinner was a success, and the potatoes surpassed all +expectations. I am not much of a potato-eater, but on this occasion I +surprised myself by asking for a potato the third time. + +Her receipt for boiling potatoes was very simple. She washed them well +and peeled off a strip about a quarter of an inch wide lengthwise round +each potato, placed them in an old iron pot, covered them with fresh +rain-water (cold), and added a teaspoonful of salt. She allowed them to +boil fifteen minutes, and then poured out a quart of the hot water and +added a quart dipperful of cold water. When the edge of the peel began +to curl up, she pronounced them done, and removed them from the pot, +covered the bottom of a baking-tin with them, placed them in the oven +with a towel over them for fifteen minutes, with the oven-door open. +They were splendid. + +The roast rump of salt beef was a new dish to me, but it was very good. +It had stood in water twenty-four hours to extract the salt from it. It +was a little dry and a trifle too well done. + +My salad was composed of a few dandelions that had grown in a shady +spot, a few inch dock-leaves, the tip-ends of the milk-weed, and a few +wild chives, with bacon dressing; but I had no vinegar. As a substitute +I gathered a handful of sheep sorrel, chopped it up fine, and sprinkled +it over the salad. + +On my departure the _judge_ addressed me as Mr. Weedeater, and requested +me to make his cabin my home whenever I was in Minnesota. + +=Cabbage.=—Never buy overgrown cabbages. They may appear very pleasing +to the eye, but they are apt to be too coarse and too full of fibres to +make a palatable dish. Do not trim off the outer leaves until the day +they are wanted. It is a good plan to purchase a few dozen heads of +cabbage with the stalks on, and hang them up in the cellar, heads down; +then cut them down when wanted. Cut the heads into quarters; trim off +all wilted leaves; cover them with cold water; add a handful of salt, +and let them stand an hour before boiling. This process thoroughly +cleanses them from insects, etc., that may be concealed between the +leaves. When ready to boil cover them with boiling water; add a pea of +soda, a little salt, and boil till tender. The old-fashioned way of +boiling cabbage and other vegetables for a boiled dinner with the joint +is not to be recommended for families outside of the farm, as it makes +altogether too hearty a meal for those taking but little exercise. + +=Boiled Asparagus.=—If the cut end of asparagus is brown and dry and the +heads bent on one side, the asparagus is stale. It may be kept a day or +two with the stalks in cold water, but it is much better fresh. Scrape +off the white skin from the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal +length; let them lie in cold water until it is time to cook them; tie +the asparagus in small bundles, put them into a pot with plenty of +water, and a handful of salt. When the asparagus is sufficiently cooked +serve it on toast with drawn butter or with cream dressing, sauce +vinaigrette, etc. + +=Boiled Artichokes.=—Soak the artichokes and wash them in several +waters; cut the stalks even; trim away the lower leaves, and the ends of +the others; boil in salted water with the tops downwards, and let them +remain until the leaves can be easily drawn out. Before serving remove +the choke and send to table with melted butter. + +=Jerusalem Artichokes.=—Peel the artichokes and throw each root into +cold water and vinegar immediately, to preserve the color. Put them into +boiling water, with a little salt, until sufficiently tender for a fork +to pass through them easily; then pile them on a dish, and serve as hot +as possible with melted butter or white sauce poured over. Soyer shaped +them like a pear, then stewed them gently in three pints of water with +two or three onions thinly sliced, one ounce of salt, and one ounce of +butter. He then placed a border of mashed potatoes round a dish, stuck +the artichokes in it points upwards, poured over them either white sauce +or melted butter, and put a fine Brussels sprout between each. It made a +pretty, inviting dish. Time to boil, about twenty minutes. They should +be tried with a fork frequently after a quarter of an hour, as they will +become black and tasteless if allowed to remain on the fire longer than +necessary. + +=Brussels Sprouts.=—Pick, trim, and wash a number of sprouts; put them +into plenty of fast-boiling water. The sudden immersion of the +vegetables will check the boiling for some little time, but they must be +brought to a boil as quickly as possible, that they may not lose their +green color. Add a tablespoonful of salt and a pea of soda, and boil +very fast for fifteen minutes. Lose no time in draining them when +sufficiently done; and serve plain, or with a little white sauce over +the top. + +=Green Peas.=—To have green peas in perfection, care should be taken to +obtain them young, freshly-gathered, and freshly-shelled. The condition +of the peas may be known from the appearance of the shells. When the +peas are young the shells are green, when newly-gathered they are crisp, +when old they look yellow, and when plump the peas are fine and large. +If peas are shelled some hours before they are cooked they lose greatly +in flavor. + +=Bottled Green Peas.=—Shell the peas; put them into dry, wide-mouthed +bottles, and shake them together so that they may lie in as little space +as possible; cork the bottles closely, and seal the corks; bury the +bottles in dry earth in the cellar, and take them up as they are wanted. +They will keep three or four months. + +=Boiled Turnips.=—Turnips should only be served whole when they are very +young, and then they should be covered with white sauce. When they have +reached any size they should be mashed. Pare the turnips, and wash them; +if very young a little of the green top may be left on; if very large +they should be divided into halves or even quarters; throw them into +slightly-salted water, and let them boil gently till tender; drain and +serve them. + +=Carrots.=—This vegetable is almost invariably sent to table with boiled +beef. When the carrots are young they should be washed and brushed, not +scraped, before cooking—and old carrots also are better prepared in this +way—then rubbed with a clean coarse cloth after boiling. Young carrots +require an hour for cooking, and fully-grown ones from one hour and a +half to two hours. The red is the best part. In order to ascertain if +the root is sufficiently cooked, stick a fork into it. When they feel +soft they are ready for serving. + +=Boiled Celery.=—Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with a little +salt in it. Wash the celery carefully; cut off the outer leaves, make +the stalks even, and lay them in small bunches; throw these into the +water, and let them boil gently until tender, leaving the saucepan +uncovered. When done, drain, and place them on a piece of toast which +has been dipped in the liquid; pour over them a little good melted +butter, and serve. + +=Boiled Spinach.=—Take two pailfuls of spinach, young and +freshly-gathered. Pick away the stalks, wash the leaves in several +waters, lift them out with the hands that the sand or grit may remain at +the bottom, and drain them on a sieve. Put them into a saucepan with as +much boiling water slightly salted as will keep them from burning, and +let them boil until tender. Take the spinach up, drain it, and press it +well; chop it small, and put it into a clean saucepan with a little +pepper and salt and a slice of fresh butter; stir it well for five +minutes. Serve with the yolk of hard-boiled egg. + +=Onion.=—This vegetable may be regarded either as a condiment or as an +article of real nourishment. By boiling it is deprived of much of its +pungent volatile oil, and becomes agreeable, mild, and nutritious. There +is no vegetable about which there is so much diversity of opinion as +there is about the onion, some persons liking a little of it in every +dish, and others objecting to it entirely. Generally speaking, however, +a slight flavoring of onion is an improvement to the majority of made +dishes, but it should not be too strong. The smell which arises from the +esculent during cooking and the unpleasant odor it imparts to the breath +of those who partake of it are the principal objections which are urged +against it. The latter may be partially remedied by eating a little raw +parsley before and after it. When onions are used for stuffing, the +unpleasant properties belonging to them would be considerably lessened +if a lemon, freed from the outer rind but covered as thickly as possible +with the white skin, were put in the midst of them, and thrown away when +the dish is ready for the table. Onions may be rendered much milder if +two or three waters are used in boiling them. Spanish onions are not so +strong as the English, and are generally considered superior in flavor. +The largest are the best. + +=Boiled Beets.=—Wash, but do not cut them, as it would destroy their +sweetness; put them on to boil in a sufficiency of water, and let them +boil from two to three hours, or until they are perfectly tender; then +take them up, peel and slice them, and pour vinegar or melted butter +over them. The root is excellent as a salad, and as a garnish for other +salads it is desirable on account of the brightness of its color. + +=Boiled Corn.=—Strip the ears, pick off the silk, and put them in a pot +of water with a little salt; boil half an hour. When done, cut off the +corn from the cob and season it with butter, pepper, and more salt if +necessary, or serve on the ear. + +=Oyster-Plant.=—Scrape the roots lightly; either cut them into +three-inch lengths, or leave them whole, and throw them into water with +a little lemon till wanted; put them into boiling salt and water, and +keep them boiling quickly till tender; drain them, arrange on toast upon +a hot dish, and pour over them good melted butter, white sauce, or sauce +maître d’hôtel. + +=Boiled Cauliflower.=—Cut the stalk close to the bottom, and pare away +the tops of the leaves, leaving a circle of shortened leafstalks all +round. Put the cauliflower head downwards into a little vinegar and +water for a quarter of an hour. Put it into a pan of boiling water, with +a tablespoonful of salt in it. Some persons prefer milk and water. +Remove the scum carefully as it rises or the cauliflower will be +discolored. Boil till tender. This may be ascertained by taking a little +piece of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and if it yields easily +to pressure it is ready. Drain, and serve. Put a lump of butter the size +of an egg into a saucepan with a cupful of cold water; add gradually a +teaspoonful of flour, mix smoothly, boil, and strain over the vegetable. + +=Boiled Horse Radish.=—Cut each root into pieces two inches in length, +and each piece into quarters; boil in water containing a little salt and +one tablespoonful of vinegar. When tender drain, place the strips on a +napkin, and send to table with drawn butter. This vegetable is seldom +used except as a condiment or sauce ingredient. Although ignored in any +other form, it is one of the most nutritious and healthful of all +vegetables. It makes an excellent dish when used in equal portions with +any vegetables handled in making fritters. + +=Stewed Cucumber.=—Peel and quarter two cucumbers lengthwise; put them +in a saucepan, add one teaspoonful of salt and one dozen whole peppers. +When tender take them out; place them on toast, the edges of which have +been dipped in water used in stewing. Pour drawn butter over them, well +seasoned with cayenne pepper, and serve. + +=Stewed Dandelion.=—The first mention of this dish will perhaps inspire +most American people with aversion, but I can honestly advise them to +try it. It is an inexpensive dish, and easily obtained; for fresh +growths after showery weather may be had throughout the year. Gather a +quantity of fresh dandelion; pick off all the withered tips and hard +parts; shred them into strips, and wash them free from grit; put the +dandelion into a stew-pan with a strip of bacon, and add one +tablespoonful of vinegar; cover it with a small quantity of boiling +water, and stew until tender. Mash with a wooden spoon; stir in a lump +of butter; flavor with pepper and salt, and serve like spinach. The dish +may be garnished in a variety of ways, either with hard-boiled eggs, +sippets of fried bread, or slices of boiled carrot cut into shapes. It +is usually served with white meats, as veal, sweet-breads, etc., but it +is excellent as a garnish for poached eggs. + +=The following weeds= are all good greens if properly treated: the +milk-weed, the different docks, fat hen, ox-tongue, jack-by-the-hedge, +sea-holly (a substitute for asparagus), sea beet, shepherd’s purse, sow +thistle, hawk-weed, stinging nettle, willow herb, pile-wort, Solomon’s +seal, lamb’s quarter, and a number of other weeds common to this +country, and known only to a few. Once known they would be much sought +after. + + + + + _TABLE ETIQUETTE._ + + +The following article from _Harper’s Bazaar_ is so appropriate under +this head that we take the liberty of inserting it entire: + +“TABLE ETIQUETTE.—There are a few points of table etiquette not directly +connected with the giving and receiving of dinners and teas, but which +are of the first importance, as they concern individual behavior. We +would be inclined to think every one acquainted with them, and allusion +to them a matter of supererogation on our part, if it were not that we +see them so frequently violated. Those of our readers who are, or who +have always been, familiar with them will perhaps pardon our speaking of +them for the sake of those who are not. + +“We do not expect to see these gaucheries in the best society; but there +are many people perfectly well fitted for the best society but for +ignorance concerning these things, which, although trifles in +themselves, are of such infinite importance on the whole. For instance, +where all the requirements are not fully known, if a general cessation +of conversation should suddenly supervene upon the serving of the soup, +would there be silence in the place? Not at all; the gap would be filled +with a continuous bubbling sound from the mouth of some one or other +unlucky wight whose mother never taught him to take soup properly, and +who is possibly disturbing and disgusting all those that do better, and +who know how easily the trouble might be avoided. Soup is to be taken +from the side of the spoon, not from the tip, and it is not to be sucked +in, but the spoon being slightly tilted, it is rather poured into the +mouth than otherwise, the slightest silent inhalation being sufficient +for the rest. + +“Another generally neglected obligation is that of spreading butter on +one’s bread as it lies in one’s plate, or but slightly lifted at one end +from the plate; it is very frequently buttered in the air, bitten in +gouges, and still held in the face and eyes of the table with the marks +of the teeth on it. This is certainly not altogether pleasant, and it is +better to cut it a bit at a time, after buttering it, and put piece by +piece in the mouth with one’s finger and thumb. + +“Let us mention a few things concerning the eating of which there is +sometimes doubt. A cream cake, and anything of similar nature, should be +eaten with knife and fork—never bitten. Asparagus—which should always be +served on bread or toast, so as to absorb superfluous moisture—may be +taken from the finger and thumb; if it is fit to be set before you, the +whole of it may be eaten. Peas and beans, as we all know, require the +fork only. Potatoes, if mashed, should be eaten with the fork. Green +corn should be eaten from the cob; but it must be held with a single +hand, and not after the fashion of the alderman’s wife at the lord +mayor’s dinner. French artichokes are to be eaten with the fingers, +slightly pulled apart at the top and one of the leaves pulled out with +finger and thumb; the fleshy end of this leaf is then dipped in the +salad dressing served with it, and only that atom of a paler color at +the bottom of the leaf is taken as it peels off between the lips, when +the dry portion is to be laid back in the plate. It is always served as +a separate course by itself; a pretty hand looks very pretty indeed when +fingering a French artichoke. Celery, cresses, radishes, and all that +sort of thing are, of course, to be eaten from the fingers; the salt +should be laid upon one’s plate, not upon the cloth. Fish is to be eaten +with the fork, without the assistance of the knife; a bit of bread in +the left hand sometimes helps one to master a refractory morsel. + +“It is best to be very moderate in the beginning of a dinner, as one +does not know what is to follow, and all the rest may be spoiled for one +by an opposite course. We remember the case of a lady in Mexico, who, +dining with the governor of the province, was served for the first +course with a hash. She was somewhat surprised; but it was a very good +hash, and she really made her dinner upon it. But the next course was +also hash—there were seventeen courses of hash before the main dinner, +of every delicious delicacy under the sun, made its appearance! Of +course, a tiny morsel of each hash, for the sake of the flavoring, was +all she should have taken; as it was, she sat afterwards like Tantalus. + +“Berries, of course, are to be eaten with a spoon. In England they are +served with their hulls on, and three or four are considered an ample +quantity. But, then, in England they are many times the size of ours; +there they take the big berry by the stem, dip it into powdered sugar, +and eat it as we do the turnip-radish. It is not proper to drink with a +spoon in the cup, nor should one, by the way, ever quite drain cup or +glass. Spoons are sometimes used with puddings, but forks are the better +style. A spoon should never be turned over in the mouth. Ladies have +frequently an affected way of holding the knife half-way down its +length, as if it were too big for their little hands, but this is as +awkward a way as it is weak; the knife should be grasped freely by the +handle only, the forefinger being the only one to touch the blade, and +that only along the back of the blade at its root, and no further down. +In sending one’s plate to be helped a second time, one should retain +one’s knife and fork, for the convenience of waiter and carver. At the +conclusion of a course where they have been used, knife and fork should +be laid side by side on the plate—never crossed; the old custom of +crossing them was in obedience to an ancient religious formula. The +servant should offer everything at the left of the guest, that the guest +may be at liberty to use the right hand. If one has been given a napkin +ring, it is necessary to fold one’s napkin and use the ring; otherwise +the napkin should be left unfolded. One’s teeth are not to be picked at +table; but if it is impossible to hinder it, it should be done behind +the napkin. One may pick a bone at the table, but, as with corn, only +one hand is allowed to touch it; yet one can usually get enough from it +with knife and fork, which is certainly the more elegant way of doing; +and to take her teeth to it gives a lady the look of caring a little too +much for the pleasures of the table; one is, however, on no account to +suck one’s fingers after it. + +“Wherever there is any doubt as to the best way to do a thing, it is +wise to follow that which is the most rational, and that will almost +invariably be found to be the proper etiquette. There is a reason for +everything in polite usage; thus, the reason why one does not blow a +thing to cool it is not only that it is an inelegant and vulgar action +intrinsically, but because it may be offensive to others—cannot help +being so, indeed; and it, moreover, implies haste, which, whether +resulting from greediness or from a desire to get away, is equally rude +and objectionable. Everything else may be as easily traced to its origin +in the fit and becoming. + +“If, to conclude, one seats one’s self properly at table, and takes +reason into account, one will do tolerably well. One must not pull one’s +chair too closely to the table, for the natural result of that is the +inability to use one’s knife and fork without inconveniencing one’s +neighbors; the elbows are to be held well in and close to one’s side, +which cannot be done if the chair is too near the board. One must not +lie or lean along the table, nor rest one’s arms upon it. Nor is one to +touch any of the dishes; if a member of the family, one can exercise all +the duties of hospitality through servants, and wherever there are +servants, neither family nor guests are to pass or help from any dish.” + +I would here disclaim against the disgusting habit of mouth-rinsing so +prevalent at many dinner-parties. The bad taste of such a procedure +seems to me so evident that everybody of refinement would avoid it. Yet +I have repeatedly seen it resorted to in fashionable society. + + + + + _BANQUET SERVICE._ + + +The correct or proper manner of taking care of a number of guests that +have assembled before the hour of dinner or supper has always been a +puzzling problem to the novice in this line of business; but a +first-class caterer will always be willing to help the host out of the +dilemma, provided the host does not pretend to know more about the +business than the caterer. It is a very good plan to have a colored +servant at the door, another to receive the coat, hat, and cane, and +give a paper check therefor, and still another to usher the guests to +the reception-room, where they will find the host holding court over a +bowl of lemonade or a light punch. The guests are eventually summoned to +the banquet-room, but just before they enter it is “in good form” to +serve them with a glass of plain Vermouth, or a Vermouth cocktail, as an +appetizer. White servants are particularly to be recommended for the +dining-room. + +They then sit down to a repast, served in the following order (assuming +of course that the table is set for a banquet): + +No less than three, or more than five, oysters on the plate of each +guest (with celery on table if in season). The oyster plates and forks +are removed. Next serve the soups, with a grated rusk, plain roll, or +French bread. _Hors-d’œuvres_, or whets, are now in order. Next serve +the boiled releve; then the heavy entrée; after which serve the light +entrée. Your guests will now expect the punch Roumaine, after which +serve a good Russian cigarette (if gentlemen only). Then the roast +joint; after which serve the game. Then the light salad, with a plain +French dressing. Next the sweet entremet. The table should now be +cleared; cheese and hard cracker offered; then the ices, with cake, +etc., confectionery, dessert, coffee, liquors and cigars. The +appropriate vegetables to be passed round with each joint or dish where +they _naturally_ belong. + +The proper wines for above banquet are: with oysters, white Burgundies, +Sauternes, and, if no other wine is at hand, a bottle of still Moselle +may be served; with the soup, Sherry and Madeira; with the releves of +fish, Hock wines; with the boiled joints, light Bordeaux (claret) and +Burgundy wines; with the entrées, champagnes (though champagne may be +served from the beginning to the end of dinner if asked for), after the +last entrée serve the punch Roumaine, cardinal, etc., with cigarette if +desired. A Rhenish wine may be on table to prepare the palate for the +roast, and to counteract the sweetness of the punch. With the roasts and +game heavy Burgundy and Bordeaux. At many English banquets port wine is +sprinkled over the lettuce, and cheese and crackers are served at the +same time, but it is not a modern custom. With the sweets, sherry and +Madeira. A spoonful of brandy added to the coffee will aid digestion. + +A _pony_ of half green Chartreuse and S. O. P. brandy is excellent at +the end of a dinner. + +Serve the punch Roumaine after the last entrée, and not after the +_roast_, as I have occasionally seen it on bills of fare. + +Remember that venison cools rapidly. Iced or cold wines should not be +served with it. Hot plates should not be forgotten. + +Rhine wine takes kindly to boiled or roast ham. + +Have you tried blanched almonds sautéed with a little butter, and +seasoned with salt and pepper, and served after the cheese? + +But one might suggest in this way indefinitely. The subject is +inexhaustible. + +=Remarks on Wines.=—A guest should not be censured “by looks” from the +host if he refuses to drink any other wine than that served with the +first course, provided it is of a good vintage and pleases his palate. +Good, honest wines should be served at all large entertainments, but +“private stock” and “rare vintages” should be reserved for the more +private affairs, where the guests are personal friends of the host, and, +though not recognized as wine-drinkers, they are good judges of and +appreciate thoroughly a good glass of wine. The promiscuous gathering +(with few exceptions) seldom appreciates a rare bottle of still wine. +Their ideal wine is the champagne. I have often seen a bottle of +splendid Chateau Yquem and Johannesberger pushed aside as “stuff” the +moment the champagne appeared, and by gentlemen whom I had previously +considered _bon vivants_. They will tell you that a wine with a deposit +or crust cannot be pure, and it is only a waste of time to attempt to +explain that old wines without a deposit are more or less _doctored_. + +The host should be censured for sending his cellar curiosities to table +when the majority of the guests are strangers to him. + +On decanting wines, Denman has observed: “To fully develop the flavor +and bouquet of any wine a little gentle warmth is necessary, and it is +therefore advisable that the wines intended for immediate use should be +placed in a warmer temperature than that of the cellar”; and Fin-Bee +adds “that the dining-room is the proper place,” which is the custom +among first-class caterers. The heavy wines should remain in the +dining-room uncorked a few hours under the supervision of a trusty +person, for the average waiter is partial to good wine, and can remove a +bottle as dexterously as a king of legerdemain. + +Francatelli insists that the different kinds of sherries, ports, +Madeira, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines are improved by being +decanted several hours before dinner. + +His advice and suggestions are proper; but does it not please the eye—is +there not an unwritten history in all the dark cobwebs, etc., that cling +with a brotherly affection to the original bottle? + +The favorite Hocks with Americans are P. A. Mumm’s Johannesberg, Barton +& Guestier’s, Henkell & Co.’s wines, and a few other well-known reliable +firms. Prince Metternich, Schloss Johannesberg wines are very good, but +“Blue Seal” is held at too high a figure ($150 per case) to ever become +popular. + +P. A. Mumm’s Hock wines are favorites, and justly so, for they are +entirely free from adulteration. + +At an American banquet recently given in London, the favorite wine was +Heidsieck, on the ground that it was one of the first wines to find +popular favor in America. This information will, no doubt, surprise +wine-drinking Americans, for if our custom-house reports of importation +are reliable, we have discovered several Rheims wines that are decidedly +superior to Heidsieck. The importation in 1879 of G. H. Mumm’s champagne +alone was twenty-two thousand five hundred and twenty-six cases more +than of any other brand. + +Pommery and Cliquot (the two widows), Roederer dry, Moët & Chandon, +Imperial, and a few others are all good dinner wines. + +Sparkling Hock, if properly handled, is a wine that should find favor in +this country, but the demand is so limited that it is very apt to spoil +before the case is used up. That made from the Riesling grape is the +best. + +American champagnes (and it grieves me to say it) are not the proper +wines to serve at a banquet or dinner. Their peculiar acrid taste does +not suit a palate that has been educated on foreign wines. They may be +served at a banquet given in a foreign country where every dish and +every wine is purely American, or sent to the cook for his champagne(?) +sauce, etc. A bottle of “Cook’s Imperial” may be served at lunch, and it +is proper enough at the end of the bar where the crackers and cheese +hold court. It finds favor with the youth “seeing the sights” of a great +city, but not elsewhere. + +Pierre Blot, in the _Galaxy_, observed “that American wines are just as +good as foreign wines for the table and for cooking purposes. Bogus +wines,” he said, “are sold to native Americans almost entirely.” Friend +Blot evidently got in with the _wrong crowd_ when he visited us. + +=The First Champagne.=—It happened that about the year 1668 the office +of cellarer was conferred upon a worthy monk named Perignon. Poets and +roasters, we know, are born, and not made; and this precursor of the +Moëts and Cliquots, the Heidsiecks and the Mumms of our days, seems to +have been a heaven-born cellarman, with a strong head and a +discriminating palate. The wine exacted from the neighboring cultivators +was of all qualities, good, bad, and indifferent; and with the spirit of +a true Benedictine, Dom Perignon hit upon the idea of “marrying” the +produce of one vineyard with that of another. He had noted that one kind +of soil imparted fragrance and another generosity, and discovered that a +white wine could be made from the blackest grapes, which would keep +good, instead of turning yellow and degenerating like the wine obtained +from white ones. Moreover, the happy thought occurred to him that a +piece of cork was a much more suitable stopper for a bottle than the +flax dipped in oil which had heretofore served that purpose. The white, +or, as it was sometimes styled, the gray wine of Champagne grew famous, +and the manufacture spread throughout the province, but that of +Hautvillers held the predominance. The cellarer, ever busy among his +vats and presses, barrels and bottles, alighted upon a discovery +destined to be far more important in its results. He found out the way +of making an effervescent wine, a wine that burst out of the bottle and +overflowed the glass, that was twice as dainty to the taste, and twice +as exhilarating in its effects. It was at the close of the seventeenth +century that this discovery was made, when the glory of the Roi Soleil +was on the wane, and with it the splendor of the court of Versailles. +The king for whose especial benefit liquors had been invented found a +gleam of his youthful energy as he sipped the creamy, foaming vintage +that enlivened his dreary tête-à-tête with the widow of Scarron. It +found its chief patrons, however, among the bands of gay young +roysterers, the future _roués_ of the Regency, whom the Duc d’Orléans +and the Duc de Vendôme had gathered round them at the Palais Royal and +at Anet. It was at one of the famous _soupers_ d’Anet that the Marquis +de Sillery, who had turned his sword into a pruning-knife and applied +himself to the cultivation of his paternal vineyards on the principles +inculcated by the cellarer of St. Peter’s, first introduced the wine +bearing his name. The flower-wreathed bottles which, at a given signal, +a dozen of blooming young damsels scantily draped in the guise of +Bacchanals placed upon the table were hailed with rapture, and +thenceforth sparkling wine was an indispensable adjunct at all the +_petits soupers_ of the period. In the highest circles the popping of +champagne-corks seemed to ring the knell of sadness, and the victories +of Marlborough were in a measure compensated for by this grand +discovery.—_London Society._ + + + + + _MIXED DRINKS._ + + +My receipts under this head are inserted for the benefit of _the +gentlemen_, many of whom in the course of my experience have bewailed +their lack of knowledge on this point when wishing to entertain their +male friends at home. + +=Lemonade.=—Take half a pound of loaf-sugar and reduce it to a syrup +with one pint of water; add the rind of five lemons and let stand an +hour; remove the rinds and add the strained juice of the lemons; add one +bottle of “Apollinaris” water, and a block of ice in centre of bowl. +Peel one lemon and cut it up into thin slices, divide each slice in two, +and put in lemonade. Claret or fine cordials may be added if desired. +Serve with a piece of lemon in each glass. + +=Milk Punch.=—For a small party: Dissolve half a pound of sugar in a +little hot water which has been flavored slightly with a little +lemon-peel; add the syrup to two quarts of rich milk (cream is +preferable); pour in one pint of brandy and one gill of Jamaica rum; mix +thoroughly, dust a little grated nutmeg over it, and set it in a cool +place. Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth with a little sugar +and float on top of punch same as with egg-nogg. Sprinkle a little +confectionery sugar over froth. Place a small piece of ice in each +tumbler when serving. + +=Egg-nogg.=—For a small party: Separate the yolks and whites of twelve +eggs; beat the yolks thoroughly, add two heaping cupfuls of sugar and +half a grated nutmeg; beat the whole together thoroughly; add half a +pint of brandy, half that quantity of Jamaica or Santa Cruz rum, and two +quarts of rich milk. Beat up the whites of six of the eggs to a stiff +froth, float it on top of mixture, and dust with a little confectioner’s +sugar. Place a piece of ice in each tumbler when serving. + +=Hot Tom and Jerry.=—Separate the yolks and whites of ten eggs. Beat the +yolks up thoroughly and add gradually four pounds of sugar. Beat up +whites of eggs to a stiff froth and add gradually to above mixture. +Flavor this batter with one wineglassful of Maraschino and a little +nutmeg. Put one tablespoonful of this mixture into a china mug with a +wineglassful of brandy and one tablespoonful of rum, and fill up the mug +with hot water, stir well and dust a little more grated nutmeg over it +if desired. Sherry may be used instead of brandy if preferred. + +=Hot Apple Toddy.=—Heat a tumbler with hot water; throw out the water; +put in one teaspoonful of sugar and one wineglassful of apple brandy; +fill glass two-thirds full with hot water, add one-quarter of a warm +baked apple, a trifle of grated nutmeg, and send to table with spoon in +the glass and some hard water crackers. + +=Hot Spiced Rum.=—Heat a glass with a little hot water; throw out the +water; put in one teaspoonful of sugar, one wineglassful of rum, a +walnut of butter, three whole allspice, one clove, and fill up with hot +water. Dust a little grated nutmeg over top if desired. Substitute +Scotch whiskey for rum if preferred. + +=Santa Cruz Punch.=—Place the juice of two lemons, one heaping +tablespoonful of sugar, and a little water in a tumbler; stir a few +minutes to dissolve the sugar; add a wineglassful of Santa Cruz rum; +fill up the goblet with fine ice; add a slice each of orange, lemon, and +pineapple. Stir well and serve with straws. + +The favorite brands of whiskies are the famous “Old Crow” Bourbon, +“Hermitage” and “Monongahela Monogram” rye. + +Orange Co., N. Y., apple-jack is superior to that made in New Jersey. + +Have you tried the sherries from the oldest house in Spain—Juan Gmo. +Burdon? They are excellent. Served with our favorite dish, terrapin, the +epicure exclaims: “The eternal fitness of things!” + + + + + _PRESERVING, ETC._ + + +It is not many years since every good housewife felt called upon at +least once a year to take a great deal of trouble in preserving a supply +of fruit for use during the winter months. The purchase of fruit-jars, +the picking, or purchase, and sorting of fruit, the purchase of sugar, +the boiling and preparation of the syrup, oftentimes in the hottest +weather, was a task which many a good housewife looked forward to with +some trepidation, while the uncertainties attending the keeping +qualities of the preserves, after they were manufactured, made this a +rather undesirable feature in housekeeping. + +Within a few years, however, all this has become unnecessary; the +manufacture of preserves on a large scale, with skilled labor and +improved appliances, has proven, as in many other branches of +manufacture, a great success; and while there are some thrifty +housewives who still think their “home-made” preserves are better than +the “store” article, it is undoubtedly true that the high-class +preserves, such as are sold by Thurber, Park & Tilford, Acker, Merrall & +Condit, and other first-class grocers, are decidedly fine, and in a +number of cases far more appetizing and delicate than the home-made +article. I say this with all due respect for the skill shown by many +careful, conscientious housewives throughout the land, but in this case +the doctrine “survival of the fittest,” I think, is quite applicable. +Too many people are apt to sit down, fold their hands, and disclaim +against anything not made at home, at least as far as preserves and +candied fruits are concerned. The sword, I must admit, cuts both ways. +While I have wrestled carefully and conscientiously at many houses with +_alleged_ preserves made at home, I have suffered the “pangs of +Tantalus” from atrocious compounds put on the market by conscienceless +manufacturers. For the benefit of those who desire to “do up” their own +fruits I append a few trustworthy receipts. For preserving, the “Almy +jar” is particularly to be recommended. + +In using this jar, fill it with the desired fruit while cold. Make a +syrup of sugar (quantity as given below) by boiling well to prevent +fermentation, or it can be put on fruit dry. Fill jar with fruit, pour +sugar over it until jar is full half-way up the neck; screw on covers of +jars without rubber rings; put a board indented with holes in bottom of +wash-boiler and stand jars on it; fill boiler with cold water up to neck +of jars; boil (time necessary for different fruits is given below), then +remove jars one by one, take off covers, fill with boiling water, put on +rubber rings and screw covers on tightly as possible. The same process +is used in preserving all kinds of fruits. + + PREPARING FRUITS FOR PRESERVING. + Boil Cherries moderately 5 minutes. + „ Raspberries „ 6 „ + „ Blackberries „ 6 „ + „ Plums „ 10 „ + „ Strawberries „ 8 „ + „ Whortleberries 5 „ + „ Pie-Plant sliced 10 „ + „ Small Sour Pears, whole 30 „ + „ Bartlett Pears, in halves 20 „ + „ Peaches „ 8 „ + „ Peaches, whole 15 „ + „ Pineapple, sliced ½ inch thick 15 „ + „ Siberian or Crab Apple, whole 25 „ + „ Sour Apples, quartered 10 „ + „ Ripe Currants 6 „ + „ Wild Grapes 10 „ + „ Tomatoes 90 „ + Pour into warm jars. + +The amount of sugar to a quart jar should be: + + For Cherries 6 ounces. + „ Raspberries 4 „ + „ Lawton Blackberries 6 „ + „ Field „ 6 „ + „ Strawberries 8 „ + „ Whortleberries 4 „ + „ Quince 10 „ + „ Small Sour Pears, whole 8 „ + „ Wild Grapes 8 „ + „ Peaches 4 „ + „ Bartlett Pears 6 „ + „ Pineapples 6 „ + „ Siberian or Crab Apples 8 „ + „ Plums 8 „ + „ Pie-Plant 10 „ + „ Sour Apples, quartered 6 „ + „ Ripe Currants 8 „ + +=Cider= may be kept fresh and sweet by simply heating it until it throws +off steam, then putting into hot jars and sealing immediately. + +=Apple-Sauce= ready for table use or pies may be preserved by putting in +hot jars and sealing at once. Remember cold fruit requires cold jars, +hot fruit requires hot jars. + +=To open the Jar.=—Take the blade of a penknife, or any other thin +instrument, and push the rubber in towards the neck at the O on the +shoulder of the jar. The air will enter and the lid will easily unscrew. + +=Currant-Jelly.=—One pound of granulated sugar to each pint of juice. +Squeeze the currants and boil juice twenty minutes, then add sugar, +which should be heating while the juice boils; stir well together until +sugar is well dissolved. + + M. G. H. + +=Wine Jelly.=—One box of Cox’s gelatine, dissolved in one pint of cold +water, one pint of wine, one quart of boiling water, one quart of +granulated sugar, and three lemons. + + M. G. H. + +=In making Jam=, the first thing to be looked after is the fruit. As a +general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, sound, and scrupulously +clean and dry. It should be gathered in the morning of a sunny day, as +it will then possess its finest flavor. The best sugar is the cheapest; +indeed, there is no economy in stinting the sugar, either as to quality +or necessary quantity, for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and the jam +will not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar is boiled with the +fruit. At the same time too large a proportion of sugar will destroy the +natural flavor of the fruit, and in all probability make the jam candy. +The sugar should be dried and broken up into small pieces before it is +mixed with the fruit. If it is left in large lumps it will be a long +time in dissolving, and if it is crushed to powder it will make the jam +look thick instead of clear and bright. The quantity to be used must +depend in every instance on the nature of the fruit. Fruit is generally +boiled in a brass or copper pan uncovered, and this should be kept +perfectly bright and clean. Great care should be taken not to place the +pan flat upon the fire, as this will be likely to make the jam burn to +the bottom of the pan. If it cannot be placed upon a stove plate, set it +upon a slab of soap-stone or marble over the fire. Glass jars are much +the best for jam, as through them the condition of the fruit can be +observed. Whatever jars are used, however, the jam should be examined +every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are any signs +of either mould or fermentation it should be boiled over again. If you +do not want to use the patent glass jar, the best way to cover jam is to +lay a piece of paper the size of the jar upon the jam, to stretch over +the top a piece of writing-paper or tissue-paper which has been dipped +in white of egg, and to press the sides closely down. When dry, this +paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. The strict economist may use +gum dissolved in water instead of white of egg. The object aimed at is +to exclude the air entirely. Jam should be stored in a cool, dry place, +but not in one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has a tendency to +make the fruit go mouldy and heat to make it ferment. Some cooks cover +the jam as soon as possible after it is poured out, but the +generally-approved plan is to let the fruit grow cold before covering +it. In making jam, continual watchfulness is required, as the result of +five minutes’ inattention may be loss and disappointment. + +=Canning Tomatoes.=—Scald your tomatoes; remove the skins, cut in small +pieces, put in a porcelain kettle, salt to taste, and boil fifteen +minutes; have tin cans filled with hot water; pour the water out and +fill with tomatoes; solder tops on immediately with shellac and rosin +melted together. + + M. G. H. + +In canning, it is customary at hotels to follow the same process as in +preserving, with the exception that not nearly so much sugar is used. + +=To Can Quinces.=—Cut the quinces into thin slices like apples for pies. +To one quart jarful of quince take a coffee-saucer and a half of sugar +and a coffee-cup of water; put the sugar and water on the fire, and when +boiling put in the quinces; have ready the jars with their fastenings, +stand the jars in a pan of boiling water on the stove, and when the +quince is clear and tender put rapidly into the jars, fruit and syrup +together. The jars must be filled so that the syrup overflows, and +fastened up tight as quickly as possible. + +=Green Tomato Pickle.=—One peck green tomatoes sliced, six large onions +sliced, one tea-cup of salt over both; mix thoroughly and let remain +over-night; pour off liquor in the morning and throw it away; mix two +quarts of water and one of vinegar, and boil twenty minutes; drain and +throw liquor away; take three quarts of vinegar, two pounds of sugar, +two tablespoonfuls each of allspice, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and +mustard, and twelve green peppers chopped fine; boil from one to two +hours. Put away in a stone crock. + + M. G. H. + +=Chili Sauce.=—Eight quarts tomatoes, three cups of peppers, two cups of +onions, three cups of sugar, one cup of salt, one and one-half quarts of +vinegar, three teaspoonfuls of cloves, same quantity of cinnamon, two +teaspoonfuls each of ginger and nutmeg; boil three hours; chop tomatoes, +peppers, and onions very fine; bottle up and seal. + + M. G. H. + +=Hot Sauce.=—Six tablespoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, +one egg; beat butter, sugar, and yolks together, the white, beaten to a +stiff froth; add a teacupful of boiling water and one teaspoonful of +vanilla. + + M. G. H. + +=The best way= to prepare a new iron kettle for use is to fill it with +clean potato parings; boil them for an hour or more, then wash the +kettle with hot water, wipe it dry, and rub it with a little lard; +repeat the rubbing for half a dozen times after using. In this way you +will prevent rust and all the annoyances liable to occur in the use of a +new kettle. + +=A new antiseptic= is described by the _Journal of Chemistry_. It is a +double salt of borate of potassium and sodium; and is made by dissolving +in water equal portions of chloride of potassium, nitrate of sodium, and +boracic acid, filtering and evaporating to dryness. It does not give a +bad taste to food. Butter may be kept sweet by it at ordinary +temperatures for a week. Meat, game, etc., dipped in a weak solution +remain pure for a long time. A piece of meat well rubbed with the salt +and laid away two years ago is now in perfectly good condition. Eggs +dipped in a solution of this antiseptic remain good for a long period. + +=Morning Tonic.=—An agreeable and effective tonic for the correction of +any discomfort arising from a too heavy supper the night before may be +taken in the morning before breakfast, as follows: One wineglassful of +“Hunyadi Water,” fifteen minutes afterward a goblet of “Apollinaris +Water”; wait half an hour before breakfasting. The use of any alcoholic +beverages before breakfast, such as cocktails, etc., is to be +deprecated, as, aside from any moral point, it tends to promote +indigestion, creates a false appetite, and is in every way injurious to +the system. The man who resorts to it for “toning up,” or as an +“appetizer,” deceives himself. + +=Dyspepsia Cure.=—One-half an ounce each of pepsin and bismuth, +one-quarter of an ounce cubebs, and two and a half grains lime; mix well +and take a pinch of the powder fifteen minutes after each meal. I have +never known this remedy to fail when tried. + + T. J. M. + + + + + _MENUS._ + + +My object in introducing the following menus is to serve a double +purpose: first, to show progress made in the art of constructing menus +in the past thirty years—for it is an art, and a very important one, +too—among leading caterers; and second, to furnish hints to all who may +wish to give dinners or suppers more or less elaborate. It has often +happened in my experience that customers would submit to me bills of +fare constructed by another caterer in the event of a prospective +“spread,” and say there was something about it they did not like, some +dish they would like to substitute, etc. In this small space I have only +attempted to give a few of the many thousand varieties in my collection, +but I now have in preparation a volume embodying bills of fare, +estimates for cost of different bills based on number of guests to be +seated, together with a glossary or dictionary of French idioms and +words used in menus and the reason of their adoption. The use of any but +our own language on bills of fare ought to be avoided, but there are +cases where it is impossible, and it is with the view of enlightening +those who cannot understand the meaning of French terms used, and yet +shrink from displaying their lack of knowledge, that I have devoted my +time to the construction of a glossary. + + + _DINNER ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF DANIEL WEBSTER._ + + AT THE REVERE HOUSE, BOSTON, FRIDAY, JAN. 18, 1856. + + + Oysters on Shell. + + _Soup._ + + Mock Turtle. + Tomato. + Fish Chowder. + + _Fish._ + + Boiled Cod’s Head and Oysters. + Fried Sea Trout with Rashers of Pork. + Baked Striped Bass, Stuffed, Claret Sauce. + + _Removes._ + + Roast Turkey. + Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce. + Roast Sirloin of Beef. + Boiled Capons and Pork, Celery Sauce. + Roast Mongrel Geese from Marshfield. + Boiled Leg English Mutton, Caper Sauce. + Roast Westphalia Ham, Champagne Sauce. + + _Cold Ornamental Dishes._ + + Boar’s Head on a Soclé, Decorated. + Lobster Salad, Garnished, in Jelly. + Galatine of Turkey with Truffles. + Quail with Plumage, on Form. + Boned Chicken with Truffles. + Pate of Liver in Jelly. + Aspic of Oysters, a la Royale. + + _Entrees._ + + Macaroni a la Anizine. + Mutton Cutlets, Breaded. + Venison Steak, Jelly Sauce. + Vol au Vent, a la Financiere. + Arcade of Partridge with Olives. + Terrapin, Stewed, Port Wine-Sauce. + Fillets of Black Grouse with Truffles. + Sweet-breads, Larded, with Green Peas. + Veal Cutlets, Larded, Tomato Sauce. + Mutton Kidneys, Champagne Sauce. + Fillet of Beef with Mushrooms. + Turban of Fillets of Chicken. + Calf’s Head, Turtle Sauce. + Oysters Fried in Crumbs. + Tripe, Webster Style. + + _Game._ + + Gray Ducks. + Canvas-Back Ducks. + Black Ducks. + Widgeons. + Partridge. + Red Heads. + Prairie Grouse. + Quail. + English Pheasants. + Teal. + Brant. + Meringue Baskets. + Omelet Soufflee. + Blanc-Mange. + Pastry. + Creams. + Confectionery. + Wine Jelly. + Charlotte Russe. + + ORNAMENTS. + + _Dessert._ + + Lemon Ice-Cream. + Fruit. + Frozen Plum-Pudding. + Roman Punch. + Bon-Bon Glace. + + _Coffee and Liqueurs._ + + + _BANQUET AT THE TENTH ANNUAL REUNION OF THE SOCIETY OF THE ARMY OF THE + CUMBERLAND._ + + FRIDAY, JULY 7, 1876, ST. GEORGE’S HALL, PHILADELPHIA. + + _President.—Lieut.-Gen. Philip H. Sheridan._ + + _Soup._ + + Green Turtle, Sherry Wine. + + _Fish._ + + Salmon—Lobster Sauce, Iced Cucumbers, Haut Bareac. + + _Roast._ + + Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce. + Fillet de Bœuf, with Mushrooms. + Geisler Blue Seal Champagne. + + _Vegetables._ + + Potatoes. + Peas. + Tomatoes. + Cauliflower. + + _Entrees._ + + Sweet-breads and Peas. + Chicken Croquettes. + + _Salad._ + + Lobster. + + _Dessert._ + + Ices. + Meringues. + Fruit. + Claret Wine. + Coffee. + Brandy. + Whiskey. + Cigars. + + _Toasts._ + + The President of the U. S., Gen. J. S. Fullerton. + George H. Thomas, Gen. J. A. Garfield. + The Army and Navy, Gen. W. T. Sherman. + The Volunteers, Gen. J. P. Bankson. + The Army of the Cumberland, Gen. C. H. Grosvenor. + Sherman’s Army, Major W. H. Lambert. + Our Departed Comrades, Gen. Wm. Cogswell. + + + _BANQUET AND RECEPTION TO HON. MATTHEW S. QUAY._ + + NOVEMBER 23, 1878. + +Second only to the entertainment given to Grand Duke Alexis, in 1869, +was the reception and banquet tendered to Hon. Matthew S. Quay, late +chairman of the Republican State Committee, by the Union Republican +Club, yesterday afternoon and evening, at the club-rooms and +banqueting-room of the Continental Hotel. The reception ceremonies +commenced promptly at the hour of five o’clock, at the club-rooms, +President Addicks officiating, and continued until seven o’clock, when +the members of the club to the number of 112, accompanied by twenty-five +invited guests, and the grandest display of fireworks ever witnessed in +this city, repaired to the banqueting-room of the Continental Hotel. + +At precisely eight o’clock the party assembled sat down to the most +sumptuous banquet ever prepared in this city, and it was not until 10 +o’clock that the lengthy bill of fare was disposed of. At the latter +hour Mr. Rufus E. Shapley, the toastmaster of the evening, announced the +first toast, to which the honored guest of the occasion, Hon. M. S. +Quay, fittingly responded. He was followed by Hon. Morton McMichael, and +ex-Governor Thomas L. Young, of Ohio, responded to the toast of “the +President of the United States.” Governor Hartranft followed, and +succeeding him came Governor-elect Hoyt, who, after an excellent speech, +introduced General Adam E. King, of Baltimore, who made one of the best +speeches of the evening. Hon. Galusha A. Grow followed in a lengthy +speech, and he was followed by General Palmer, of Wilkesbarre. Speeches +were also made by Colonel Norris and others, until the hour of twelve +o’clock arrived, when the party dispersed. + +Carl Sentz’s band furnished the music for the occasion, while Mr. Murrey +superintended the banquet. One of the chief features of the banquet was +the bill of fare, which was certainly the handsomest and most costly of +any ever gotten up in this city, and, as a souvenir, will long be +treasured by all who participated on the occasion. + +Prominent among those present were Governor Hartranft, Governor-elect +Hoyt, ex-Governor Young, of Ohio, Hon. Galusha A. Grow, Mayor Stokley, +ex-Mayor McMichael, Judges Yerkes, Thayer, Briggs, and Ashman, Gen. +McCartney, Gen. Palmer, Gen. Owen, Hon. B. H. Brewster, Attorney-General +Lear, Hon. Butterworth, First Congressional district of Ohio, Gen. +Bingham, James McManes, Esq., United States District-Attorney Valentine, +Lieutenant-Governor-elect C. W. Stone, Messrs. Leeds, Hill, Thomas J. +Smith, Henry Bumm, and Colonel Norris. + + + MENU. + + Blue Point Oysters. + Chablis. + Green Turtle. + Colbert. + Sherry. + Pates a la Reine. + Salmon Sauce, Hollandaise. + Filet of English Sole, a l’Allemande. + Potato Croquette. + Marcobrunner. + Sweet-Bread, a la Morland. + Breast of Capon, a la Marengo. + Terrapin. + La Rose. + Asparagus, French Peas. + Mumm’s Extra Dry. + Punch a la Romaine, in Orange Baskets. + Cigarettes. + Canvas-back Duck. + Saddle of Venison. + Potatoes Parisienne. + Chambertin. + Celery, en Mayonnaise, Lettuce. + Old English and Roquefort Cheese. + Osbourne’s Old Port. + Charlotte Russe, Jellies. + Gateaux Assortis Bisquit, Glace. + Ice-Cream, Fruits, French Coffee, Liquors. + + —_Judge Bunn’s Transcript._ + + + _DINNER A LA MARYLAND._ + +A patriotic son of Maryland has suggested as a perfect dinner, the +choice of the amphitryon being restricted to the productions of the +State, the following: + + Four small Lynhaven Bay oysters. + Terrapin, a la Maryland. + Canvas-back Duck. + Salad of Crab and Lettuce. + Baked Irish Potatoes. + Fried Hominy Cakes. + Plain Celery. + +A royal feast, I assure you; but as I have not been invited, and as the +affair may not come off, I feel at liberty to criticise. I consider a +salad of crab and lettuce “too heavy” for such a menu as our “patriotic +son of Maryland” has suggested; and as for the fried hominy cakes, why, +it is like feeding swine on truffles—out of place, I assure you! It is +too suggestive of the hog and hominy of the Sunny South. My gastronomic +friend, where is your elegant Burgundy, or a bottle of the Leland +Brothers’ private stock Madeira? + +Now I will give you my idea of a loyal dinner: + + + MENU. + + Four Blue Point Oysters. + Consomme with Egg. + Celery. + Grated Rusk. + “Petites Bouchees” of Quail. + Terrapin, Philadelphia style. + Saratoga Chips. + + Canvas-back Duck. + Currant-Jelly. + Lettuce Salad, plain Dressing. + Roquefort Cheese, with Hard Water-Cracker. + Coffee Demi-tasse. + +The coffee is to be made at table by an expert; and the wines—well, say +a bottle of sparkling Hock made from the Riesling grape served after the +soup-plates have been removed, and a choice bottle of good old Burgundy +or rare Madeira. + + + _BANQUET TO THE HON. GEORGE LEAR, EX-ATTORNEY-GENERAL, TENDERED BY THE + SENATE OF PENNSYLVANIA._ + + LOCHIEL HOTEL, HARRISBURG, PA., THURSDAY, MARCH 27, 1879. + + Served by Thomas J. Murrey, of Continental Hotel, Phila. + + MENU. + + Oysters. + Celery. + Chablis. + Chicken a la Reine. + Amontillado Sherry. + Petites Bouchees a l’Imperial. + Boiled Striped Bass, Hollandaise. + Broiled Shad, Sauce Tartare. + Cucumber Salad. + P. A. Mumm’s Johannesberg. + Fillet of Beef, with Mushrooms. + Loin of Lamb, Epicurean. + Godillot’s French Peas. + Potatoes Duchesse. + Chateau La Rose. + Supreme of Fowl, Sauce Bearnaise. + Cutlet of Sweet-breads a la Perigord. + Tomatoes Stuffed au Gratin. + G. H. Mumm’s Extra Dry. + Punch Cardinal. + Cigarettes a la Russe. + Squabs Stuffed a la Murrey. + Chambertin. + Lettuce Salad. + Omelette Souffle. + Assorted Jelly. + Glace Napolitaine. + Assorted Cake. + Fruit. + Roquefort Cheese. + Boston Water-Crackers. + Coffee. + + + _A DICKENS CHRISTMAS DINNER._ + + (From Dickens’ Story of “A Christmas Carol.”) + + COMPOSED BY T. J. MURREY. + + _Preparatory._ + +“What’s to-day, my fine fellow?” “To-day? why, Christmas day.” + +The flickering of the blaze showed preparations for a cozy dinner, with +hot plates baking through and through before the fire. + +She laid the cloth, assisted by Belinda. And everything was good to eat, +and in its Christmas dress. + +At last the dishes were set on and grace was said. + + _Dinner._ + + Oysters. + +“Self-contained and solitary as an oyster.” + + Barrels of Oysters. + Chateau Sauterne. + +“A glass of wine ready to our hand.” + + Light Wine. + + + _Hors-d’œuvre._ + + Tiny Tim Pickles. + + + _Soup._ + + Creme of Cauliflower—Fin-Bec. + +“The compound was considered perfect.” + +“It had a remarkable quality, and Scrooge observed it.” + +Sherry (private stock, 1836). + +“From a cask in the merchants’ wine-cellars below.” + +“Here he produced a decanter of wine.” + + _Fish._ + + Filet of Sole—Sam Ward. + +“The very fish in a bowl, though members of a dull and stagnant-blooded +race, appeared to know that there was something going on. Scrooge’s ‘two +fish-baskets’ never held anything like them.” + + Boiled Potatoes. + +“He blew the fire until the slow potatoes, bubbling up, knocked loudly +at the saucepan-lid to be let out and peeled.” + + Nackenheimer Auslese. + +“Satisfactory, too. Oh! perfectly satisfactory.” + + _Entree._ + + Tenderloin of Pork—Chas. Lamb. + +“An animal that grunted sometimes.” + +“Seasonable at Christmas time.” + + Spanish Onions Stuffed and Baked. + +“Shining in the fatness of their growth like Spanish friars.” + + Pommery Sec. + +“Never out of season.” + +“He iced his.” + + Punch a la Bishop. + +“We will discuss your affairs over the punch.” + + _Roast._ + + Turkey. + +“It is not a fictitious one, glued on a wooden platter.” + +“Not unlike the big prize turkey that Scrooge sent to the Cratchit +family.” + + Cranberry Sauce. + +“Modest tartness.” + + Goose, Apple-Sauce. + Mashed Potato. + +“Bob said he didn’t believe there ever was such a goose cooked; its +tenderness and flavor were the themes of universal satisfaction.” + +“Eked out by apple-sauce and mashed potato, it was a sufficient dinner +for the whole family.” + + Romanee Conti. + +“Came after the roast.” + +“A noble adjustment of things.” + + _Plain Salad._ + +“Like lettuce.” + +“It was made plain enough by the dressing. The ‘aromatic vinegar’ +improved it.” + + _Dessert._ + +“With the dessert upon the table.” + + Plum-Pudding, Brandy Sauce. + +“Hallo! a great steam! the pudding was out of the copper.” + +“Mrs. Cratchit entered with a pudding blazing in half a quartern of +ignited brandy.” + +“And a wonderful pudding it was.” + + Mince-Pies. + +“They had mince-pies.” + + Confections. + +“The candied fruits, so caked and spotted with molten sugar as to make +the coldest lookers-on feel faint—and subsequently bilious.” + + Fruit. + +“Cherry-cheeked apples and oranges, beseeching to be carried home in +paper bags and eaten after dinner.” + +“There were bunches of grapes, and figs, and raisins, and almonds.” + + Cheese. + +“A crumb of cheese.” + + Tea and Coffee. + +“The blended scents of tea and coffee were so grateful to the nose.” + +“At last dinner was all done, the cloth was cleared, the ‘hot stuff’ in +the jug was tasted, and Bob proposed—‘A Merry Christmas to us all.’” + + * * * * * + +On Easter day (1880) there was a private banquet at the Rossmore Hotel +in this city, prepared, devised, and superintended by Mr. T. J. Murrey. +The service was for twenty, and the menu was as follows: + +Who can help loving the land that has taught us six hundred and +eighty-five ways to dress eggs.—Moore. + + _Oysters._ + +Wm. Travers once observed that the oyster was a most intelligent +creature, since it “shuts up sometimes.” + + _Soup._ + + Consomme Colbert. + +“On holydays, with an egg or two at most.”—Chaucer. + + _Fish._ + + Shad Roe—Bechamel. + +“He was as thin as a lath, and lank as a June shad.”—W. H. Smith, in the +novel of “The Minister’s Wife.” + + _Fresh Cucumbers._ + +“For this, be sure to-night thou shalt have cramps.”—Shakspere. + + _Releve._ + + Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. + + “It gives true epicures the vapors + To see boiled mutton minus capers.” + —Sam Ward. + + _Entree._ + + Puree of Guinea-Hen with Poached Eggs. + +“The vulgar boil, the learned poach an egg.”—Pope. + + _Omelette au Rum._ + + “Made fair in the form of a maiden, + A medley of music and flame.” + —Justin McCarthy. + + Egg-Nogg, Frappe a l’Alexandria. + + + _Roast._ + + Squab, stuffed a la Lindenthorpe. + +“Like a fat squab upon a Chinese fan.”—Cowper. + + _Green Peas._ + +“Of the sort that cost some four or five guineas a quart.”—Hood. + + _Baked Potatoes._ + + “Ireland’s native esculent in a baked condition.” + —Lord Beaconsfield. + +“The principal kind of ‘taters’ raised by Ireland last year was +agitators.”—New York _World_, Jan. 18, 1880. + + _Salad._ + + Lettuce Francaise. + + “Back to the world he’d turn his fleeting soul + And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl.” + —Sydney’ Smith. + + _Dessert._ + + Assorted. + + “I crack my brains to find out tempting sauces, + And raise fortifications in the pastry.” + —Lady Allworth’s Cook. + + _Coffee._ + + “Mocha’s berry from Arabia pure, + In small, fine China cups, came in at last.” + —Byron. + + _Cigars._ + + “Ah! social friend, I love thee well, + In learned doctors’ spite. Thy clouds all other + Clouds dispel, and lap me in delight.” + —Charles Sprague. + + + _SALAD COLLATION TO GEO. M. TOTTEN, U. S. N._ + + CONTINENTAL HOTEL, PHILADELPHIA. + + Huitres. + Chablis. + + _Potages._ + + Colbert. + Cabinet Amontillado. + Pain a Caviar. + + _Poisson._ + + Filet de Sole, a la Godard. + Marcobrunner. + + _Service Froid._ + + Filet de Bœuf Pique, au Salade Printaniere. + Romanee Conti. + Cotelette de Volaille en Bellevue. + Salade Crabes Dur, a la Gourmand. + Œufs Farci, a la Totten. + Tartelette de Pigeon, a la Vienna. + Cordon Rouge. + Salad Escarole, a la Murrey. + Celeri. + Laitue. + Fromage de Roquefort. + Old Port (private stock). + Fruit. + Cafe noir. + Liqueurs. + + T. J. MURREY, Caterer. + October 2, 1878. + + + + + INDEX. + + + Antiseptic, 113 + + Apple-Sauce, 110 + Snow, 76 + Toddy, Hot, 107 + + Arrowroot for Batters and Sauces, 37 + + Artichokes, Boiled, 92 + Jerusalem, 92 + + Asparagus, Boiled, 92 + + + Banquet Service, 101 + + Beef a la Mode, 21 + Corned, 18 + Fillet of, 20 + Roast, 39 + + Beets, Boiled, 95 + + Biscuit, Milk, 61 + + Blanc-Mange, 82 + + Boiling, Remarks on, 17 + + Bread, How to make, 59 + Boston Brown, 61 + Steamed „, 61 + Corn, 60 + Continental Hotel Corn, 61 + Wheat, 60 + Stuffing, 46 + + + Cabbage, Remarks on, 91 + + Cake, Corn, 62 + Fried Bread, 62 + Almond, 76 + Almond Sponge, 76 + Chocolate, 77 + Chocolate Macaroons, 78 + Cocoanut, 77 + Cocoanut Pound, 78 + Columbia, 77 + Cream, 79 + Crescents, 81 + Ginger Cup, 79 + Icing, 79 + English Christmas, 75 + Knickerbocker, 77 + Lady Fingers, No. 1, 80 + „ „ No. 2, 81 + Macaroons, 79 + Maids of Honor, 81 + Marbled, 80 + Neapolitan, 80 + Pound, without Soda, 80 + Olive Gingerbread, 77 + Whortleberry, No. 1, 78 + „ „ No. 2, 78 + Windsor, 79 + Zephyr, 77 + + Calf’s Brains en Matelotte, 23 + „ Fried, 24 + „ and Tongue, 24 + Head, 22 + „ Broiled, 23 + „ Collared, 23 + „ Fried, 22 + „ Maitre d’Hotel, 23 + + Capon, Boiled, 20 + Roast, 46 + + Carrots, 94 + + Cauliflower, Boiled, 95 + + Celery, Boiled, 94 + + Champagne, 104 + + Charlotte Russe, 81 + + Chestnut Stuffing, 45 + + Chickens a l’Italienne, 29 + Boiled, 19 + Croquettes, 29 + Fricassee, 28 + Fried, 29 + Liver en Brochette, 31 + Patties, 30 + Panada, 30 + Pie, 30 + Roast, 46 + Roast Prairie, 49 + Toast, 31 + With Dumplings, 31 + With Rice, 29 + + Cider, How to keep fresh, 110 + + Codfish, Baked, 12 + Salt, with Cream, 13 + + Coffee, Remarks on, 86 + + Corn, Boiled, 95 + + Cream, Bavarian, 83 + Ice, 84 + Italian, 83 + Lemon Ice, 85 + Manioca, 82 + Peach Ice, 85 + Vanilla Ice, 85 + Whipped Coffee, 83 + Whipped with Liqueurs, 83 + + Crullers, 69 + + Cucumber, Stewed, 96 + + + Dandelion, Stewed, 96 + + Dressing, Plain French, 52 + Plain English, 53 + Bacon, 53 + + Duck, Braise of, with Turnips, 31 + Braise of, with Peas, 31 + Roast Canvas-Back, 48 + Roast Domestic, 47 + Wild, Salmi of, 32 + + Drinks, Mixed, 106 + + Dyspepsia Cure, 113 + + + Eels, Fricasseed, 14 + Patties, 15 + + Egg-Nogg, 106 + + Egg-Plant, Stuffed, No. 1, 25 + Stuffed, No. 2, 35 + + Etiquette, Table, 97 + + + Fritters, 37 + + + Golden Buck, 39 + + Goose, Roast, 47 + + + Ham a la Russe, 48 + Boiled, 19 + + Horse Radish, Boiled, 96 + + Hot Apple Toddy, 107 + Spiced Rum, 107 + Tom and Jerry, 107 + + + Ice-Cream, How to make, 84 + + Ice-Cream, Lemon, 85 + Peach, 85 + Vanilla, 85 + + Ices, Water, Apricot, 85 + „ Lemon, 85 + + Icing for Cake, 79 + + + Jam, 110 + + Jelly, Currant, 110 + Wine, 110 + + + Kettles, Preparing for use, 113 + + + Lamb, Breast of, 28 + Fricassee, 28 + Roast, 41 + Roast Saddle of, 41 + + Lemonade, 106 + + Lobster, Broiled, 13 + En Brochette, 14 + + + Macaroni, Baked, 34 + + Macaroons, 79 + Basket, 83 + Chocolate, 78 + + Mackerel, Salt, Broiled, 13 + + Meringues, 82 + + Milk Punch, 106 + + Mince-Meat for Pies, 65 + + Mixed Drinks, 106 + + Muffins, Continental Hotel, 61 + + Mushrooms, Remarks on, 58 + + Mutton, Remarks on, 40 + Boiled Leg of, 18 + Breast of, with Peas, 25 + Curry of, 26 + Hash with Poached Eggs, 26 + Pie, 27 + Ragout of, 26 + Roast Leg of, 41 + Roast Loin of, 41 + + + Omelettes, Remarks on, 37 + Oyster, 38 + Rum, 38 + Souffle, 38 + + Onions, 94 + + Orange Basket, 86 + + Oyster-Plant, 95 + Croquettes, 36 + Stuffing, 46 + + Oysters, a la Poulette, 7 + Broiled, 7 + Escalloped, 6 + Fried, 7 + Patties, 6 + Raw, 5 + Roast on half-shell, 6 + Toast, 7 + + + Parsnip Fritters, 36 + + Partridge, Salmi of, 32 + + Paste, 64 + + Peas, Green, 93 + „ Bottled, 93 + + Pickle, Green Tomato, 112 + + Pies, Remarks on, 62 + Apple, 64 + „ Meringue, 65 + „ Sliced, 64 + „ Custard, 65 + Beefsteak, 21 + Custard, 66 + Fruit, 66 + Lemon Cream, No. 1, 66 + „ „ No. 2, 67 + Orange, 67 + Pumpkin, 66 + + Pigeon, Roast, 47 + + Pork, Remarks on, 42 + and Beans, 33 + Chops, Tomato Sauce, 24 + Sausages, 25 + + Potatoes, Remarks on, 90 + Balls, 35 + Cakes, 36 + Fritters, 36 + Stuffed, 35 + + Powder, Baking, 70 + + Puff Paste, 63 + + Pudding, Almond, 72 + Astor House, 74 + Bachelor’s, 73 + Batter, 69 + Bird’s-Nest, 73 + Boiled, 68 + Citron, 74 + Chocolate, 69 + Cocoanut, 73 + Eve’s, 74 + Harlan’s, 73 + Manhattan, 75 + Manioca, 75 + Macaroni, 72 + Marlborough, 72 + Plum, English, 67 + „ Plain, 68 + „ New England, 68 + Roly-Poly, 71 + Lemon, 71 + Sliced Apple, 74 + Steamed Arrowroot, 72 + + Punch, Santa Cruz, 107 + + Preserving, 108 + + + Quail, Roast, 49 + + Quinces, Canning, 112 + + + Rail-Birds, 49 + + Rarebit, Welsh, 38 + Yorkshire, 39 + + Reed-Birds, 50 + + Rice Croquettes, 34 + + Roasting, Remarks on, 39 + + + Salads, Remarks on, 51 + Alligator-Pear, 58 + Asparagus, 56 + Chicken, 55 + Cucumber and Tomato, 57 + Cucumber, 57 + Herring, 55 + Hop Sprouts, 56 + Lettuce, 52 + Lobster, 54 + Muskmelon, 58 + Potato, 55 + Sandwich, 57 + Turnip Tops, 56 + Veal, 55 + + Salmon, Soyer’s Boiled, 15 + + Salt, Remarks on, 58 + + Santa Cruz Punch, 107 + + Sauces, Anchovy, 16 + Celery, 16 + Caper, 16 + Chili, 112 + Drawn-Butter, 15 + Dutch, 17 + Egg, 17 + Hot, 112 + Lobster, 16 + Maitre d’Hotel, 15 + Mint, 41 + Mayonnaise, No. 1, 53 + „ No. 2, 53 + Oyster, No. 1, 16 + „ No. 2, 17 + Robert, 25 + Summer Mayonnaise, 53 + Tartare, 23 + Tomato, 25 + Vanilla, 69 + Vinaigrette, 53 + Wine, 73 + Gravy for baked Fish, 17 + For Plum-Pudding, 68 + + Shad, Baked, 14 + + Sherries, 108 + + Snipe, Roast, 49 + + Soup, Beef Tea, 11 + Chicken, No. 1, 11 + „ No. 2, 11 + Gumbo, 8 + Mock Turtle, 9 + Ox Tail, 10 + Pea, 10 + „ Economical, 10 + Stock, 8 + Tomato, 10 + Veal Stock, 8 + „ Broth, 8 + + Spiced Rum, Hot, 107 + + Spinach, Boiled, 94 + + Sprouts, Brussels, 93 + + Stew, Beef, 21 + + Sweet-breads, Stewed, 24 + + + Table Etiquette, 97 + + Tomatoes, Canning, 112 + Stuffed, 34 + + Tom and Jerry, Hot, 107 + + Tonic, Morning, 113 + + Tongue, Boiled, 19 + + Tripe, Broiled, 33 + Fricassee, 33 + Lyonnaise, 33 + + Trout Tenderloin, 14 + + Turkey, Remarks on, 14 + Boiled, 19 + Roast, 45 + + Turnips, Boiled, 93 + + + Veal Croquettes, 27 + Fricassee of, 27 + Roast Loin of, 40 + + Venison, Breast of, 33 + Chops, 32 + Epicurean, 32 + Patties, 33 + Roast, 48 + + + Weeds, 97 + + Whiskies, 108 + + Wines, Remarks on, 102 + + Woodcock, Roast, 49 + +------------------------------------------------------------------------ + + + + + TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES + + + Page Changed from Changed to + + 31 add a carrot cut into strips, an add a carrot cut into strips, an + onion stock with a few cloves onion stuck with a few cloves + + ● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. + ● Added table of Contents. + ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. + ● Enclosed bold font in =equals=. + ● HTML alt text was added for images that didn’t have captions. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 77612 *** |